LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. I mvA'^. y;0psnsl'i ;\o- I UNITED STATI-:S UF AMEIMCA \ DIVISIONAL EXACT MEASUREMENT k\m FOR GARMENT CUTTING, Wf'o. LI NTH ICU M, (S^ditof of I^intliiduni'^ Joui'qhl of J^kfdiioiigi,) No. 174 Fifth Avenue. New York, Containing Forty Diagrams, explanatory of both systems, and accompanied by a measure, with twelve special divisions adapted for Drafting by the Divisional System, and giving explicit directions for Measuring, Drafting, &c. M\y VOf(-K: LAWRENCE & ALLEN. STATIONERS AND PRINTERS, No. 20 VESEY STREET. Xo- - K. Y.,^^:^^'^l\^i§^6. THAT \a vN^^ysXViioXX^ O^ < 1 1 ^5^^^^^^^ of owner of this Volume. And it is mutually agreed, that it is for his exclusive use and benefit, i uid not transferable. i yfM. ^^l^^ i'\ vf k (UV0^39^^O[iur^M'A PREFACE THE first print of my Sj^st^m, or treatise on Garment Cuttino; beinp; exliausted, its popularity in tlie profession and the continued demand for tlie work, lias impelled me to produce this new and revised edition. If I were to let this opportunity jiass without noticing the very large sale and wide circulation of my first jjublication, and heartily- thanking the veiy many appre- ciative patrons in the profession, who have purchased, read and manifested in various ways their approbation of the ideas advanced and teachings inculcated ; I would in truth be more calloiis to fair treatment, and less appreciative and generously disposed than I desire to appear to be. The countless testimonials and flattering words that I have received from artists in the trade, from all over our great country, and a majority of them, coming from masters in . the profession, have done more to stimulate me to this undertaking, this second effort in authorship, than the pecuniary reward fore- shadowed. In the preparation of this work I have not found it necessary to alter or change mateiially any of the rules or teachings set forth in the first volume; only to enlarge the scope, to add to its comprehensiveness. I have, I think, founded my system, or com- bination of systems on a scientific basis, presenting the methods and principles to be followed, in as clear and practicable a form as possible, shorn of every thing that would perjilex or confuse the student of average intelligence. It will be found to be elegantly and accurately illustrated by nearly half an hundred carefully and artisticall}" prepared diagrams. These diagrams are produced with a view to aid in the cutting of every known style of body-coats, surtouts, over-sacks, trousers of every style, ladies' riding habits; in fact every style of garment manufactured by the trade. Though comprehending all this interesting and useful knowledge, the woi'k will not be considered bulk}^ or verbose in any respect. With these few observations, fuU}^ sensible of the responsibility assumed, in scatter- ing far and wide, ideas and teachings which will be closely analyzed and criticised by the learned, and novices in the Art of Cutting, I respectfully subscribe myself The Autiioh. h V INTRODUCTORY TO LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS OF CUTTING. WiiEr^ undertaking the duties devolving upon an Editor of Fashions, it certainly was not my intention to come before the Tailor- ing Trade in yet another position, that of an originator and pixblisher of a system or systems for Drafting. I not only expected, but expressed a determination to confine myself within journalistic limits, and not use its privileges for promulgating any special sj'stem, preferring a more general basis for the ideas I might have occasion to ventilate, from time to time. To me it appeared that a journars useful- ness was greatly restricted by being liamp- ered witli set theories that might not admit of extension or bear tlie contact of an- tagonistic sentiments; hence the desire on my part, while keeping my Journal within its proper boundaries, to liave it so far un- controlled as to leave freedom for active thought and liouest expression, regarding all matters comino- within its range. Tlie above reasons appeared all sufficient to deter me from advancing my own peculiar method of Drafting, and only the constantly increasing demand for my mode of Cutting, and tlie urgent entreaties of many members of the Trade for my system, caused me to view the subject in a different light, and realize that it would not neces- sarily turn my Journal into an organ of self-advertisement, if I concluded to publish my system. Most assuredly I could not, without great detriment to other duties, spare time to answer the numerous missives I received, requesting siiecial instruction regarding my method of Drafting, and upon considt;ration, I deemed that Justice to the many seekers of information and myself, required the issuing of the present work on Garment Cntting. Long experience has taught me the value of a simple and correct system for Drafting Garments ; and the necessity 1 felt for such a S3'^stem, and my LI NT III CUM' S 8 YS TEMS . eagerness to take long strides on the road to improvement, spurred me to diligent labor, and after long and most careful test- ing, I can pronounce the success of the result of my efforts as being beyond even my own sanguine expectations. If I was simply a Tailor by theory, a theoretical system might answer my purpose and serve as a publication, provided the publishing of a sj^stem was my only aim. But I am essentially a practical Tailor, and most zealously have practiced my sys- tem, and made it earn its riglit to claim from otliers the high encomiums I bestow upon it. What I have stated before, may here bear repetition. By years of experience and study, I have gained a not unenviable reputation as a Cutter ; and it has ever been, and is now, a source of pride with me to justly merit it. Hence, in preparing my systems, I have stinted neither time nor means to bring them to successful comple- tion, and arrive at the point I have reached, as I desire these publications to add too, instead of detracting from, the estimation many liave placed on my ability. "What is worth doing at all, is worth doing well," and as merit only can obtain and sustain a position of wortli and promiinMice, it lias b(H'n my effort to nuike the merits of my systems so perceptible to tlie minds of all that exj^eriment with them, tliat they can- not fall to rec('iv<; due a])pri'ciation. It is impossible for every one to think alike. If they did, the sameness in life would be un- endurable, and competition unknown. In Tailoring, as in every thing else, the opin- ions and systems are worth most that can best be substantiated by able tests. That the inventor of a practical theory should be biased in its favor is natural. It is the off- spring of his brain, over wliich lie has toiled uncomplainingly, to make it prove worthy of him. When it is entrusted to the colder criticism of others, he watches it anxious- ly, eager that it clearly demonstrates to the discriminate investigator the benefits he so clearly sees, underlying its principles, and over each convert it makes, feels repaid for every weary hour past in its invention. Every work can b3 propelled into notice by loud puffing ; but it is genuine worth alone, that can command fixed attention. Tlie reason that so many systems float for a t-ime on the market, and then sink to obscurity, is that, as a general thing, they owe their origin to theory only. Some person thinks he lias found the philosopher's stone, and made science reveal its treasured secrets. He at once hastily illustrates, to his own satisfaction, his ideas, and a system is sent fortli to the trade. It apjiears desirable, and purchasLM's are numerous; but it don't realize their anticipations, so tlit^y begin to alter hnre, and chang.? tlierc, in the vain LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. hojw of making it satisfactorily supply their requirements. The cause of the defects, and the non-discovery of them by the designer, lies in the fact of his la(;k of opportunity for testing his system as thoroughly and under as varied circumstances as a practic- ing Tailor. All the faults that appeared to the inventor's eyes, he provided a theory to rectify ; but he could not imagine all the trials it would be subjected to, and there- fore, don't comprehend its failures. It stands to reason that a Tailor, successfully doing business, producing a system, has facilities for thoroughly testing and perfect- ing, that only others situated like himself can avail themselves of ; and it is this very point I consider a good foundation for the confidence I have in the systems I now place before the trade. They have past through seasons of trial, and came out victorious. They liave bfen subjected to every possible contingency, but beyond everything I ever tried, have met the wants of mj'^ business. With accuracy, I have accomplished my purpose, and embodied my views for general use. Upon my work I have set a value, believing it will repay its cost to the pur- chaser ten fold. Some persons are never open to conviction, and always dread a turn off from the beaten track. Bacon says, " that surely every medicine is an innovation, and he that will not apply new remedies must expect new evils, for time is the great innovator ; and if time, of course, alter things to the worse, and wis- dom and counsel shall not alter them to the l)etter, wliat shall be the end ? " "Time don't stand still, but contrariwise, moveth so around that a froward retention of ciistom is a turbulent thing." "And they that reverence too much old times, are but a scorn to the new." How far my sentiments agree with the above quotations, I will leave my readers to judge. In reference to my systems, I have frankly made assertions and given my experience. Those who have not confidence in them, are not compelled to experiment in either. One thing I am sure, Both the sj-stems I've made, In the bahxnce c:in be weighed; And (I saj- it without vaunting,) They neither will bo found wanting. W. O. LINTHICUM. ]V[ek^ui'ii]g. In order to cut a- good Garment, it is es- sentially necessary that a coi'rect measure be obtained ; and my mode of measuring is so very simple, that it is hardly possible to commit an error, if ordinary care be L 1 XT HI C UM • ,S S YS TEMS. observed. Take all the measures over a Coat of the usual cloth thickness, except the breast and waist, which must be taken over the Vest. Be particular and see that the Coat is not excessively stuffed with wadding, or the measures obtained will be too large. It is an excellent plan to make unlined Coats, or long close fitting Jackets with sleeves, from elastic goods of medium weight and keep on hand three or four diffei'ent sizes to put on customers when they are to be measured. A trial of the above will result in the measures taken being more uniformly ac- cnrate, and the cost of the Garments kept for the purpose of taking them, paid in a few weeks by the saving in altei'ations. Take as few measures as possible ; and I advise all new beginners to practice measiar- ing many times before attempting to Draft. They will thus acquire ability, and form the habit of taking measures with ease and cor- lectness, thereby showing familiaiity with the matter in hand. Hesitancy and awk- wardness, where tliej' exist, leave an im- ])rcssion of incompetency on the minds f)f customers. Always take the measures in the same ordei-, thus avoiding omissions and annoyance to customi-rs, in having to ])lace them in tlie same position moie than once. The alxnc suggestions will not be injurious \n some Cutters I have met, who are well advanced in the art of Cutting. f)ii'edtioi]^ foi' >Iek^ui'ii)rf foi' tlie f)ms^ioi)kl ^y^teni. First, liave the Coat buttoned on the person to be measured, see that it is well up under the arms, and that the back seam is in the centre of the body; then proceed to take the length of waist, say 19 inches, and full length, 38 inches, starting from tlie collar seam, or where it is intended to be. Then from the same place, bring the measuring ta]ie down in front of the right arm, under it and up the back to the start- ing point, drawing the tape moderately tight, and get what is commonly known as the first shoulder measure, say 27 inches. While the inch tape is in position under the arm, draw it with the same degree of tightness across the blade to the centre of the back, say 23 inches, (tax the mind for a moment with this measuie, but do not write it down,) then reverse the tape and start from the centre of the back, and draw it aci'oss the blade and under the arm to the front of scye. Before writing down the distance, continue the tape up in front of the shoulder to the original starting point at the back of the neck, and see that it is 23 inches as first taken, and then write down the distance from the centre of the back to the front of the sc^ye, (say Hi inches, and the whole length 23 inches.) It is well liere to impress the mind of the LINTHICUM'S SrSTE.US. student with the importance of this last measure. It is the only one taken that is applied directly to the Draft, as taken on the body. It is very simple and easily taken, and will correctl_y indicate the posi- tion of the customer, whether erect, medium or stooping. The special measures given above are for the medium sized average form. Should the customer be erect, and his shoulders inclined back, the distance from the centre of the back to the front of the scye, would be less than half of the whole blade measure, say 11 inches, and the full length still be 23 inches, thus diminisliing the quantity of cloth on the blade half an inch, and adding that quantity to the length of the shoulder; and should the customer possess a stooj^ing form, tlie distance from the centre of the back to the front of the scye will be greater than half of the blade measure, say 12 inches, increasing the quantity across the blade half an inch, and decreasing the length of the shoulder. To insure correct- ness, always take this measure twice, as above directed; first, from the neck down in front of the arm to the centre of buck, and remember thi_> quantity; then reverse the tape, and if the distance from the centre of tlie back to the front of the scye is not half the quantity first taken, scan the customer closely from a side view, and there will be no difficulty in deciding whether or not his form justifies the variations on the measure. The length of the sleeve take in the usual way, from the centre of the back, between the shoulders to the elbow, 20J, inches, and to the waist, 32 inches, the arm being ele- vated, and the elbow placed in as straight a line as possible with the surface of the back. If it is too far forward, the measure taken will be too long, and if too far back, it will be too short. By testing the above, it will be found a very easy matter to commit an error of from one to two inches in the length of sleeve, and probably account for the numer- ous alterations that have to be made in this particular. Next, take the breast and waist measures over the Vest, say 36 breast, and 32 waist. The measures so far taken will read 19, 38, 27, 11^, 23, 20i, 32, 36, 32. For a Sack Coat, the measures would be pre- cisely the same, except the length, which, for a medium height, would be 30 inches. For a Vest, in addition to the shoulder, blade, breast and waist measui-es already taken, start from socket-bone, and take a measure for the opening in front, full length, and to the hollow of the waist at the side, just above the hip-bone. There is no good reason why a Coat should be cut by one system, and a Vest, for the same customer, by another, entirely different in its application and results. 10 LINTIIICUM'S SYSTEMS. When the form of a customer varies from the general average (as described above in directions for taking measures), the system here published for cutting Vests will be ap- preciated, as it produces the exact form indicated bv tlie measures. foi' fiU]tfi. First, take on t side length from top of the hip-bone to the knee, say 24 inches ; con- tinue to witliin oue inch of the Moor, say 42 inches. Next, tlie inside seam, from the crotch to within one inch of the floor, 32 inclies. (This measure should be taken with a square or wooden instrument, made f(n" the purpose, with tape attached, and sold by all Trimming houses). Next, the waist measure, 30 inches, and the ]iip (taken over the largest part) 36 inches, knee 19, and bottom. 18 inches. The whole measure so taken will lead 24, 42, 32, 30, 36, 19, and 18. Ylie \r\6l\ jVfek^m'e witli i)ivisioi]v^. The linely engraved Inch Measure ac- c()mi)anying this work, contains all the Divisions used in Drafting by the Divisional Systeui, and are designated as foUows: Divisions of the shoulder measure by letters A, B & H, the sizes ranging from 18 to 36. Divisions of the breast measure by letters C, D, E, P & I, the sizes ranging from 24 to 50. Division of the waist meas- ure by letter G, the sizes ranging from 22 to 50. Divisions of the scye measure by let- ters J. K & L, the sizes ranging from 11 to 22. When Drafting, the above Divisions must be used in tlie following manner: Division A, starting from O. Division B, starting from O. Division C, starting from O. Division D, starting from O. Division E, starting from O'. Division F, starting fi-om 0"^. Division G, starting from O^. Division H, starting from 0*. Division I, starting from O'. Division J. starting from 0". Division K, starting from O*. Division L, starting from O". When Drafting, the measure is always placed in a position wliicli presents the figures of the particular division, being- used perpendicular to the eye. For ex- ample, when A and B are to be used, place the ta]ie along the line A, with O on tht^ tape at O on the Diagram, and mark on divisions A and B the figures corre- sponding with the shoulder measure, and in using Division D, place O on the tape LTXTinCUM'S SYSTEMS. 11 at 1 on the diagram, and mark on Division D tlie figure corresponding to the breast measure, the end of the tape being toward the operator, will present the figures per- pendicular to the eye. ©ii'edtioix^ foi' f)i'kftii)^ 33^i'odk oi' !)i'e^0 doktgi by tl^e l)ivi,^ioi)kl Diagram No. 1 shows the student how to draft a Frock Coat by the measure he above learned liow to take, and which reads as follows : Length of waist, 19 inches ; full length, 38 inches ; shoulder measure, 27 inches ; blade measure (from the centre of back to the front of scye), 11^ inches; continued to the hack of necTc, 23 inches ; length of sleeve from the centre of back to the elbow, 20| inches ; full length, 32 inches ; breast, 36 inches, and waist, 32 inches. First draw base line A. From O to 1 and 2, mark the figures corresponding with the shoulder measure 27 on Divisions A and B by placing O on the tape at O on the Diagram. And at 3, mark the figures corresponding with the breast measure, 36 on Division C, by placing on the tape at O on the Diagram. Draw lines B, C and D at right angles witli line A. From 1 to 4 mark the figures correspond- ing with the breast measure 36 on Division D by placing O on the tape at 1 on the Diagram . From 2 to 5 mark tlie figures correspond- ing with the breast measure 36 on Division E by placing O^ on the tape at 2 on the Diagram. From 5 to 6 mark the figures correspond- ing with tlie breast measure 36 on Division F by placing O^ on the tape at 5 on the Diagram. From .3 to 7 mark the figures correspond- ing with the waist measure 32 on Division Ct by placing O^ on the tape at 3 on the Diagram. 12 LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. Draw line E from 7 through f) to 8, and line P from 5 to O. From 2 to 5 apply the blade measure as taken on the body from tlie centre of back to the front of scye Hi inches. Hold the tape at 5, and continue the measure up line E to 8 28 inches, adding l]ii-ee-eighths of an inch as an allowance for seams, padding, etc. Draw line G from 8 to O. From 8 to 9 mark the figures correspond- ing with the shoulder measure 27 on Divi- sion H by placing O^ on the tape at 8 on the Diagram. Draw line I from 9 for the pitch of neck. From 9 to 10 mark the figures corre- sponding with the breast measure 36 on Division I by placing O^ on the tape at 9 on the Diagram. Make the width of the back at top half the distance between 8 and 9. Apply the measure 19 inclies for length of waist, and form the shoulder and side seam of the back as shown in the Diagram, or to fancy. Cut the back, and place it in position to form the shoulder by placing line F on the back directly on line G, and mark the shoulders and neck gorge, the hollow part of the hittei' always touching line E at K. Place the back again in the position from which it was cut, and put the thumb of the left liaud on line C, where tiie back joins the side-body, and move the top of back forward till the distance between K K along the dotted line is 11 J inches (the same as taken on the body and api^lied between 2 and 5). While the back is in this position, form the back part of scye and side seam, curving the latter in a half to three-fourths of an inch at the natural waist, according to the requirements of the customer. Draw sweep J from the bottom of tlie side-body, using the front shoulder point at K as the pivot. Apply the waist measure from a little above 3 on the back (allowing for what has been taken out between the back and side-body) to 11 16 inches, to which add 1 inch for seams and cuts. Form the front and waist of the forepart, and the line separating tlie side-body frf)m the forepart. At this ]ioint I earnestly ad- vise that no cloth be taken out to give form to the waist, but allow the side-body to join the forepart precisely as it was drafted, and add the necessary spring at the hip, as shown in the Diagram. It is quite a common occurrence to find customers with very prominent hips — far greater than the average form. AVhen this is the case, I advise taking an additional measure directly over the hij), where the waist seam of th(> coat will touch when buttoned, and ada])t tlie coat at this point to tlie measure. L IN TBI C UM • S S YS TEMS. 13 It will be unnecessary to apply the shoulder or breast measure to the draft, as the Divisions on the tape will produce them correctly in all cases. Before attempting to draft the sleeve or any other part of the garment, the oper- ator should practice this draft until he is perfectly familiar with the Divisions, and can produce it correctly from memory without reference to the above directions. Dii'edtior^^ foi' ©i^kftir^^ gleeve by The sleeve is Drafted in the position in which it is to be sewed in the coat, and is Drafted to suit the scye, pro- ducing the correct length of back and forearm seam. First measure the scye carefull}^, which in the size under consideration is 16 inches. (This should be done before the forepart is cut). Place a piece of paper large enough to form the sleeve under the Draft, and place the back in its original position. Draw line H from 5 at right angles with line C. From 5 to 12 mark the figures corre- sponding with the scye measure 16 on Division J by placing O" on the tape at .'5 on the Diag-ram. From 5 to 1.3 mark the figures corre- sponding with the scye measure 16 on Division K by placing O" on the tape at 5 on the Diagram. From 5 to 14 mark the figures corre- sponding with the scye measure 16 on Division L by placing O" on the tape at 5 on the Diagi-am. Draw a line from 13 to 15 at right angles with line F. From 13 to 15 mark the figures corre- sponding with the scye measure 16 on Division K by placing O ' on the tape at 13 on the Diagram. The back-arm seam at 14 must always touch line F, and the fore-arm seam ter- minate at line C as shown at 12 on the Diagram. L'se lead or hard chalk for forming the sleeve, and by a slight pressure the lines of the sleeve will be indicated on the paper placed under the draft. Apply the length (less the width of back) from 14 to elbow 2Q\ inches, and full length 32 inches. Complete the form of the sleeve as shown in the Diagram. The hollow of the uuder-sleeve at top should not extend below lines F and C. If the operator prefers to draft the sleeve separate from the body, he can do so by studying Diagram No. 31, which will give an equally good sleeve for the well-proportioned form ; but when a change u LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. is indicated, as shown in Diagrams No. 2 and 3, it is best that the sleeve be drafted in the position in which it is to be sewed in the coat. The measures and their applications deal tluis far with a well-proportioned form of medium height and size, and to this extent many of the Divisional Sys- tems published are equal to mine ; but in most of them the pupil is here left with a few vague directions for length- ening or shortening the back, or changing the location of the shoulder point, &c., &c., to conform to equally vague and uncertain measures taken from imaginary starting points in themselves unreliable and impracticable. In }neparing this System for publication, it has been my aim to perfect it to such a degree that it will be quite as easy to draft a good garment for an ill- sha]ied customer as for one possessing the proportions of a perfect model. The Cutter's task would be an easy one if all his customers conformed in shajje to the measures taken and used in Drafting Dia- gram No. 1, but unfortunately the great majority of them deviate from it. It is a very (;ommon tiling to find a man measuring proportionately the same breast, waist, and shoulder as described and illustrated by Diagram No. 1, who will stoop forward and require a longm- and wider back, and a shorter and more forward shoulder and scye, or on account of extra erectness re- quire all these changes reversed to a shorter and narrower back, and longer and more backward shoulder and scye. The following measures taken as described indicate the three forms mentioned : First — Form of good proportions — 19, 38, 27, Hi, 23, 20|, 32, 36, 32. Second— Stooping form— 19, 38, 27, 12. 23, 20-i, 32. 36, 32. Third— Erect form— 19, 38, 27, 11, 23, 20i, 32, 30, 32. It will be observed that all the measures are precisely the same except the first half of the blade measure, that portion which is width, and ajiplies from the centre of back to the front of scye. ©ii'edtioTisl f oi' ©I'liftiq^ S^i'odk-do^t foi' k ^toopii)^ S^oi'ii| by tl^e Divis^ioi^iil ^3^,'^teii|. Measure— 19, 38, 27, 12, 23, 20i 32, 36, 32. First — Draw base line A. Place on the tape at O on the Ditigram, and mark at 1 and 2 the figui'es correspond- ing with the shoulder measiire 27 on Divis- ions A and B, and at 3 maik the figures corresponding with the breast measure 36 on Division C. Draw lines B, C, and D at riaht angles with line A. LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 15 From 1 to 4 mark the figures correspond- ing with the breast measure 36 on Division D by placing O on the tape at 1 on the Dia- gram. Prom 2 to 5 mark the figures cor- responding with the breast measure 36 on Division E, by placing Qi on the tape at 2 on the Diagram. From 5 to 6 mark the figures corresponding with the breast meas- ure 36 on Division F, by placing O^ on the tape at 5 on the Diagram. From 3 to 7 mark the figures corresponding witli the waist measure 32 on Division G, by placing O^ on the tape at 3 on the Diagram. Now apply the first half of the blade measure from 2 to X, which is 12 inches (a half inch more than in No. 1) and a half inch greater than tile distance given by Division F from 2 to 5. Dot on line C, half the distance between 5 and X, which is a fourth of an inch. At the top of line A mark in and up a fourth of an inch (or half the difference be- tween 5 and X whatever it may be) as shown from O to X, rounding the back seam gently to a point between 1 and 2 on line A. Draw line E from 7 through the dot be- tween 5 and X to 8, and line F from the dot between 5 and X to X at top of back in- stead of O as in Diagram No. 1, and con- tinue the blade measure from X to 8, 23 inches, adding three-eighths of an inch as an allowance for seams, wadding, &c. It will be noticed that half the variations be- tween Division E and the first half of the blade measure at 5 and X is used, which carries line E forward at 8, and the other or remaining half at the top of back, moving the baci: seam forward and raising it a fourth of an inch, thus lengthening the back, and in applying the measure from 2 to X 12 inches, a half inch more of the blade measure is consumed than in Diagram No. 1, which lessens the length of the shoulder at 8, and moves the shoulder point and scye forward, changes necessary for a stooping figure. Draw line G from 8 to X (instead of O) as in Diagram 1. From 8 to 9 mark the figures corresponding with tlie shoulder measure 27 on Division H, by placing O* on the tape at 8 on the Diagram. Draw line J from 9 16 ZINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. for the pitcli of neck. From 9 to 10 mark the figures corresponding with the. breast measure 36 on Division J, by placing O^ on the tape at 9 on the Diagram. Make tlie width of the back at top half the distance between 8 and 9. Apply the measure for length of waist 19 inches, and form the shoulder and side seam of the back as shown in tlie Diagram, or to fancy, increasing the width of back at 4 as much as the back has been moved forward at O. Cut the back and place it in position to form the shoulder, by placing line F on the back directly on line G, and mark the shoulder and neck gorge, the hollow part of the latter always touching line E at K, Place the back again in the position from which it was cut, and put the thumb of the left hand on line C where the back joins the sidebody, and move the top of back for- ward till the distance between K K along the dotted line is 12 inches, the same as taken on the body and applied between 2 and X on line C. While the back is in this position, form the back part of the scye, and side seam curving the latter in a half to three-fourths of an inch at the natural waist, according to the requirements of the customer. Draw sweep J from the bottom of the sidebody, using the front shoulder point at K iis the pivot. Ap])ly the waist measure from a little above 3 on the back to 11, allowing for what has been taken out between tlie sidebody and back, 16 inches, to which add one inch for seams and cuts. Form the front and waist of the forepart and the line separating the sidebody from the forepart. At this point, I advise that no cloth be taken out to give form to the waist, but allow the side- bod}'^ to join the forepart precisely as it was Di'afted, and add the necessaiy spring at the hip as shown in the Diagram. If the hips of the customer sliould be larger than the average form, take and ap- ply a measure over the upper part of the hip to insure the coat being large enough at the waist-seam. It is unnecessary to apply the breast or shoulder measure to the Draft, as the Divisi- ons on the tape will produce them correctly in all cases. !)ii'edtioii^ foi' f)i^kftii]^ Sleeve foi' ^toopii)^ S^oi'ii] b^^ tl]e This sleeve, like in Diagram No. 1, is Drafted in the position in which it is to be sewed in the coat, and is Dratted to fit the scye, producing the correct length of back and forearm seams. First measure the scye carefuly, say 16 inches, (before the forepart is cut). LINTEICUM'S SYSTEMS. 17 Place a piece of paper large enough to form the sleeve iiucler the Draft, aucl place the back in its original position. Draw line H from the dot between 5 and X at right angles with line C. From the top of line H to 12, mark the figures corresponding with the scye meas- ure 16 on Division J, by placing O" on the tape at the top of line H on the Diagram. From the top of line H to 13, mark the figures corresijonding with the scye measure 16 on Division K, by placing O" on the tape at the top of line H on the Diagram. From the top of line H to 14, mark the figures corresponding with the scye measure 16 on Division L, by placing 0° on the tape at the top of line H on the Diagram. Draw a line from 13 to 15 at right angles with line F. From 13 to 15, mark the figures corres- ponding with the scye measure 16 on Divi- sion K, by placing O^ on the tape at 13 on the Diagram. The back arm seam at 14 must always touch line F, and the forearm seam terminate at line C, as shown at 12 in the Diagram. Apply the measure for length from 14 (less the width of back) to elbow 20^ inches, and full length, 32 inches. Complete the form of the sleeve as shown in the Diagram, using lead or hard chalk, and by a slight pressure, the lines of the sleeve will be in- dented on the paper under the Draft. The hollow of the under sleeve at tojj should not extend below lines F and C. ©ii'edtiori^^ f oi' ©I'^ftii]^ E^i'odk-dokt foi' ki] Sji'edt S^oi'n] by tl)e DiAG. 3. Measure— 19, 38, 27, 11, 23, 20i, 32, 36, 32. First draw base line A. Place O on the tape at O on the Diagram, and mark at 1 and 2 the figures correspond- ing with the shoulder measure 27 on Divisi- ons A and B, and at 3 mark the figures cor- responding with the breast measure 36. 'On Division C.l Draw lines B, C, and D at right angles with line A. 18 LINT HI CUM' 8 S TS TEMS. From 1 to 4 on line B, mark the figures corresponding with the breast measure 36 on Division D, by placing O on the tape at 1 on the Diagram. From 2 to 5 on line C, mark the figures corresponding with the breast measure 36 on Division E, by placing O^ on the tape at 2 on the Diagram. From 5 to 6 on line C, mark the figures corresponding with the breast measure 36 on Division F, by jjlacing O^ on the tape at 5 on the Diagram. From 3 to 7 on line D, mark the figures corresponding with the waist measure 32 on Division G, by placing 0* on the tape at 3 on the Diagram. Now apply tlie first half of the blade measure from 2 to X, which is 11 inches, (a half inch less than in No. 1) and a half inch less than the distance given by Division F from 2 to 5. Dot on line C half the distance between 5 and X, wliich is a fourth of an inch. At the top of line A mark out and down one-fourth of an inch (or half the difference between 5 and X whatever it may be) as shown from O to X in the Diagram, curving the back geani gently to a point between 1 and 2 on line A. Draw linn E from 7 through the dot be- tween 5 and X to 8, and line F from the dot between 5 and X on line C to X at the top of back, instead of O as in Diagram No. 1. And continue the blade measure from X on line C to 8, adding three-eighths of an inch as an allowance for seams, padding, &c. It will be noticed that half the variation be- tween Division E and the first half of the blade measure at 5 and X is used, which moves line E at 8 further back, and the other half at the top of line A moving the seam further back and shortening it a fourth of an inch, thus reducing the length of the back, and in applying the measure between 2 and X 11 inches, a half inch less of the blade measure is consumed than in Diagram No 1, which increases the length of the shoulder at 8, and moves the shoulder point and scye further back. Changes necessary for an erect figure. Draw line G from 8 to X (instead of O). From 8 to 9 mark the figures correspond- ing with the shoulder measure 27 on Divisi- on 11, by placing O* on the tape at 8 on the Diagram. Draw line I from 9 for the pitch of neck. From 9 to 10 mark the figures correspond- ing with the breast measure 36 on Division I, by placing 0^ on the tape at 9 on the Diagram. Make the width of the back at top, half the distance between 8 and 9. Apply the measui-e for length of waist 19 inches, and form the shoulder and side seams of the back as shown in the Diagram, or to fancy, reducing the width of the back ZINTIIIGUM'S SYSTEMS. 19 at 4 as much as the seam has been moved back at O. Cut the back and place it in position to form the shoulder, by placing line P on the back directly on line G, and mark the shoulder and the neck gorge, the hollow part of the latter always touching line E at K. Place the back again in the position from which it was cut and put the thumb of the left hand ou line C where the back joins the sidebody, and move the top of back forward till the distance between K K, along the dotted line, is 11 inches, the same as taken on the body and applied between 2 and X on line C. While the back is in this position, form the back part of the scye and side seam ; curve the latter in a half to three-fourths of an inch at the natural waist, according to the requirements of the customei". Draw sweep J from the bottom of the side-body, using the front shoulder point at K as the pivot. Apply the waist measure from a little above 3 on the ])ack to 11, allowing what has been taken out between the side- body and back, 16 inches, to which add one incli for seams and cuts. Porm the front and waist of the fore- part and the line separating the sidebody from the forepart. At this point, I advise that no cloth be taken out to give form to the waist, but allow the sidebody to join the forepart precisely as it was Drafted, and add the necessary spring at the hip as shown in the Diagram. If the hips of the customer should be larger than the average form, take and apply a measure over the upper part of the hips to insure the coat being large enough at the waist seam. It is unnecessary to apply the breast or shoulder measure to the Draft, as the divisions on the tape will produce them correctly in all cases. eeve f)ii'edtioq>s^ foi' Dfiiftiii^ gl foi' ki| Sji'edt 5j^oi'n] by tl)e f)ivi^ioi\M gy^ten]. Tliis sleeve, like in Diagram No. 1, is Drafted in the position in which it is to be sewed in the coat, and is Drafted to fit the scye, producing the correct length of back and forearm seams. Fii'st measure the scj^e carefully, say 16 inches, before the forepart is cut. Place a piece of paper large enough to form the sleeve under the Draft, and place the back in its original position. Draw liu(i H from the dot between 5 and X at right angles with line C. From the top of line H to 12, mark the figures corresponding with the scye measure 20 LINTniCUM'S SYSTEMS. 16 on Division J, by placing O^ on tlie tape at the top of line H on the Diagram. From the top of line H to 13, mark the fignres corresponding with the scye meas- ure 16 on Division K, by placing 0" on the tape at the top of line H on the Diagram. From the top of line H to 14, mark the figures corresponding with the scye meas- ure 16 on Division L, by i)]acing 0« on the tape at the top of line H on the Diagram. Draw a line from 13 to 15 at right angles with line F. From 13 to 15, mark the figures corre- sponding with the scye measure 16 on Division K, by placing O^ on the tape at 13 on the Diagram. The back arm scam at 14 must always touch line F, and the forearm seam terminate at line C, as shown at 12 on the Diagram. Apply the measure for length of sleeve from 14 (less the width of back) to elbow, 2()i inches, and full length, 32 inches. Comi)lete the fonn of the sleeve as shown in the Diagram, using lead or hard chalk, and hj a slight pressure, the lines of the sleeve will be indented on the paper un- der the Draft. The hollow of the under sleeve at the to]) sliould not extend be- low lines F and C. ©ii'edtiori^ foi' ©I'^ftii]^ k Sody- ^kdk by die ©ivi^ior^^d] Hy^ten]. As Shown in Diag. No. 4. Measure— 30, 27, lli, 23, 20^, 32, 36, 32. First draw base line A A. From O to 1 and 2 mark the figures cor- responding with the shoulder measure 27 on Division A and B, by placing O on the tape at O on the Diagram, and at 8 mark the figures corresponding with the breast measure 36 on Division C, by placing O on the tape at O on the Diagram. Draw LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 21 lines B, C, and D at right angles with line A A. From 1 to 4 on line B, mark the figures corresponding with the breast measure 36 on Division D, by placing O on the tape at 1 on the Diagram. From 2 to 5 on line C, mark the figures corresponding with the breast measure 36 on Division E, by placing 0^ on the tape at 2 on the Diagram. From 5 to 6 on line C, mark the figures corresponding with the breast measure 36 on Division F, by placing O* on the tape at 5 on the Diagram. From 3 to 7 on line D, mark the figures corresponding with the waist measure 32 on Division Gr, by placing O' on the tape at 3 on the Diagram. Draw line E from 7 through 5 to 8, and line F from 5 to O. From 2 to 5 on line C, apply the blade measure as taken on the body from the centre of back to the front of scye 11| inches. Hold the tape at 5 and continue the meas- ure up line E to 8, 23 inches, adding three- eighths of an inch as an allowance for seams, padding, &c. Draw line G from 8 to O. From 8 to 9 on line E, mark the figures corresponding with the shoulder measure 27 on Division H, by placing O* on the tape at 8 on the Diagram. Draw line I from 9 for the pitch of the neck. From 9 to 10 on line I, mark the figures corresponding with the breast measure 36 on Division I, by placing O^ on the tape at 9 on the Diagram. Make the width of back at top half the distance between 8 and 9. Apply the measure for length of coat 30 inches, and form the back as shown by the solid lines in the Diagram, adding about one inch outside of line A A as shown at 11. Cut the back and place it again in the position from which it was cut, and put the thumb of the left hand on line C where the back joins the forepart, and move the top forward till the distance between K K along the dotted line is 11 1 inches, the same as taken on the body and applied between 2 and 5 ot. line C. While the back is in this position, form the back part of the scye and the side seam, curving the latter in at the natural waist about one inch, or to fancy or fasliion. Place the back and forepart together at 16, and apply the waist measure 16 inches from 17 to 18, adding 3 inches to half the waist measure, say 19 inches in all. Place the back in position to form the shoulder by placing line F on the back di- rectly on line G, and mark the shoulder and neck gorge, the hollow part of the latter always touching line E at K. 22 LINTHIGUM-S S YS TEMS. Draw front breast line from 6 tlirongh 18, and form the lapel and front to taste or fashion. To obtain the length of front, sweep from the bottom of the side seam, using the front shoulder point at K as the pivot, and let the front breast line intersect the sweep at 19. Diagrams and directions for Drafting body sacks for stooping or erect forms will not be necessary, as it must be plain to the mind of the operator that by following the direc- tions already given for Diagrams 2 and 3, tliat precisely the same results will be reached as in a frock-coat. Place the back again in the position from which it was cut and place a piece of paper under the Draft large enough to form the sleeve, and observe the following: ©ii'e^itioii,^ foi' ©I'iiftiiig Sleeve foi' Botly-^adk by tl)e f)m^ioi\kl First, measure tlie scye carefully, say 16 inches. Draw line H from r^ at right angles with line C. Fi-om C to 12, mark the figures cor- responding with the scye measure 16 inclies on Division J, by placing O" on tlie tape at 5 on the Diagram. From 5 to 13, mark the figures correspond- ing with the scye measure 16 on Division K, by placing 0' on the tape at 5 on the Dia- gram. From 5 to 14, mark the figures correspond- ing witli the scye measure 16 on Division L, by placing O" on the tape at 5 on the Dia- gram. Draw a line from 13 to 15 at riglit angles with line F. From 13 to 15, mark the figures corres- ponding with the scye measure 16 on Divis- ion K, by placing O" on the tape at 13 on the Diagram. The back-arm seam at 14 miist always touch line F, and the front seam terminate on line C as shown at 12 on the Diagram. Apply the measure for length of sleeve from 14 (less the width of back) to the elbow, 20| inches, and full length 32 inches. Complete the form of the sleeve as shown in the Diagram, using lead or hard chalk, and by a sliglit pressure the lines of the sleeve will be indented on the paper under the Draft. The hollow part of the under sleeve at the top should not extend between lines F and C. f)ii'edtioi]b' foi' i)i^aftii|gOvei'-^hdi by tl^e i)ivi{^ioi|cil ^y^ten^ DiAG. 5. It is a very common practice among Tailors to take the breast and waist measure over a LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 23 coat when measuring for an over-sack or surtout, whether the coat measured over is thick or thin. It is a bad habit, as the meas- ures so obtained are very uncertain. It is far better to talce a neat measure over tlie vest and make the necessary additions. The measure ah-eady taken (19, 38, 27, 11^, 23, 20i, 32, 36, 32) should be increased thus : 39, 281, 12, 24i 21, 33, 38, 34, for an over- sack intended to be woni over garments of medium thickness. When the coat is re- quired loose or to be worn over thick under- garments, add 3 inches to the breast and waist measure, and to the shoulder and blade measures the same proportions. Draw base Hue A A. Fi'om O to 1 and 2 mark the figures cor- responding with the shoulder measure 28^ on Divisions A and B, by placing O on the tape at O on the Diagram, and at 3 mai'k the figures corresponding vpith the breast measure 38 on Divisions C, by placing on the tape at O on the Diagram. Draw lines B, C and D at right angles ^^'ith line A. From 1 to 4 on line B mark the figures cor- responding with the breast measure 38 on Division D, by placing O on the tape at 1 on the Diagram. From 2 to 5 on line C mark the figures cor- responding with the breast measure 38 on Division E, by placing O^on the tape at 2 on the Diagram. From 5 to 6 on line C mark the figures cor- responding with the breast measure 38 on Division F, by placing 0»on the tape at o on tlie Diagram. From 3 to 7 on line D mark the figures cor- responding with the waist measure 34 on Division G, by placing O^ on the tape at 3 on the Diagram. Draw line E from 7 through 5 to 8, and line F from 5 to 0. From 2 to 5 on line C, apply blade measure as taken on the body from the centre of back 24 LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. to the front of seye, 12 inches. Hold the tape at 5 and continue the measure up line E to 8, 24J inches, adding three-fourths of an inch instead of three-eighths (as directed for body-coats) as an aUowanoe for seams, pad- ding, &c. Draw line G from 8 to 0. From 8 to 9 on line E marlv the figures cor- responding witli shoulder measure 28| on Division H, by placing 0* on the tape at 8 on the Diagram. Draw line I from 9 for the pitch of neck. From 9 to 10 mark the figures corresponding with the breast measure 38 on Division I, by placing O^ on the tape at 9 on the Diagram. Make the mdth of back at the top, half the distance between 8 and 9. Apply the measure for length of ccjat 39 inches, and form the back as showTi by the solid lines on the Diagram, adding two inches outside of line A A as shown at 11. Cut the back and place it again in the position from which it was cut, and put the thumb of the left hand on line C where the back and fore- part joins together, and move the top of back forward till the distance between K K, along the dotted line, is 12 inches, the same as taken on the body and applied between 2 and 5 on line C. While the back is in this position foiTU the back part of the scye and the side seam, curving the latter in at the natural waist about one inch, and adding one inch to one inch and a half for spring as slutwn at 12. Place the back and forepart together at 16 and apply the waist measure from 17 to 18, adding three and a half to four inches, say 201 to 21 inches in all. Place the back in position to fonn the shoulder, by placing line F on the back directly on line G, and mark the shoulder and neck gorge, the hollow part of the latter always toiiching line E at K. Cast a short sweep downward from 6 at line C, using 2 on the back as the pivot. Draw front breast line from the sweep (one and a-half inches below 6) through 18, and foi-m the lapel and front to taste or fashion. To obtain the length of the coat in front, draw a sweep from the bottom of the side seam, using the front shoiilder point at K as the pivot, and let the front breast line inter- sect the sweep at 19. For stooping or erect forms observe the di- rections ab'eady given for Diagrams 2 and 3, and apjaly the blade measure in precisely the same manner for back and i)lace it in position to form the shoulder, by placing line F on the back directly on line G, and mark the arm- h(jle, shoulder and neck-gorge, the hollow ]jart of the latter always resting on line E. L 1 XTIIIC UM ' S S YS TEMS. 29 Add sufficient for spring over the hip, and complete the form of the front and bottom. foi' h. ^too|)ii|^ I^oi'ii] by tl]e As Shown in Diagram 8. Measure.— 26, 201, 23, 36, 82. Slionlder measure, 27; bhide, 32, 23. Draw base line A. From to 1 and 2, mark the figures cor- responding witli the shoulder-measure on Divisions A and B, by placing O on the tape at O on the Diagram, and at 3 mark the figures corresponding with the breast-measure 36 on Division C. Draw lines B, C and D at right angles A\ith line A. From 1 to 4, on line B, mark the width of back to taste, or at the intersection of lines F and B. From 2 to 5, mark the figures corresijond- ing with the breast-measure 36 on Division E, by placing O' on the tape at 2 on the Dia- gram. From 5 to 6, mark the figures correspond- ing with the breast- measure 36 on Division F, by placing O^ on the tape at 5 on the Dia- gram. From 3 to 7, mark the figures correspond- ing with the waist-measure 32 on Division CI, by placing O^ on the tape at 3 on the Dia- gram. Now apply the blade measure (as taken on the body from the centre of back to the fi'ont of scye) ^2 inches from 2 to X, a half inch more than in Diagram 7, and a half inch more than the distance given by Division Yj from 2 to 5. Dot on line C half the distance between 5 and X, which is a fouith of an inch, and at the top of line A inark in diifl up a fourtli, as sliown Iyoiw O to X. Draw line E from 7 through the Dot to 8, and line F fi'om the Dot to X at tlie toj) of back instead of O. Ccmtinue the blade-measure from X up line E to 8, 23 inches. Draw line G from 8 to X instead of O. Form the back from X, touching line A at 30 ZINTniCUM'S SYSTEMS. 1, in a fourth of an inch at 2, and one inch in at the natural waist, as shown at 1 3 on the Diagram. Apply the measure for size of waist from 13 to 11 and 12, as directed for Diagram 7. Also apply the measures for length, and com- plete the remainder of the Draft in the same manner as directed for No. 7. foi' ^1) Sii'edt I^oi'ii] by tl^e As Shown in Diagram 9. Measure.— 26, 20^ 23, 36, 32. SlKjulder measure, 27 ; blade, 11, 23. Diaw l)ase line A. From O to 1 and 2, mark the figures cor- responding with the shoulder-measure 27 on Divisions A and B, by placing O on the tape at O on the Diagram, and at 3 mark the figures corresponding with the breast-meas- ure 36 on Division C. Draw lines B, C and D at right angles with line A. From 1 to 4, on line B, mark the width of back to taste, or at tlie intersection of lines F and B. From 2 to 5, on line C, mark the figures coiTesponding with the breast-measure 36 on Division E, bj' placing O^ on the tape at 2 on the Diagi'am. From 5 to 6, mark the figures coiTespond- ing with the breast measure 36 on Division F, by placing 0= on the tape at 5 on the Dia- gram. From 3 to 7, mark the figures correspond- ing Avith the waist-measure 32 on Division CI, by placing O^ on the tape at 3 on the Dia- gram. Now api^ly the blade measure (as taken on the body from the centre of back to the front of scye) 11 inches from 2 to X, a lialf inch less tlian in Diagram 7, and a half inch less than the distance given by Division E from 2 to 5. Dot on line C half the distance be- tween 5 and X, which is a fourth of an inch, and at the top of line A mark out and down a fourtli of an inch, as shown from O to X on the Diagram. Draw line E from 7 tlirough tlie Dot to 8, and line F from the Dot to X, instead of O LIKTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 31 at the top of back. Continue tlie blade meas- ure from X up line E to 8, 23 inches, and draw line G fi-om 8 to X, at top of back, in- stead of O. Form the back from X, touching line A at 1, in a fourth of an inch at 2, and one inch in. at the natural waist, as shown in the Diagram at 13. Apply the waist measure from 13 to 11 and 12, as directed for Diagram 7. Also apply the measures for length, and complete the remainder of the Draft as directed for No. 7. G[ki'n]ei\t,^ foi' I^Jitlie^. To some tailors it may seem rather ir- regular to find a System for Cutting Sacks, Riding Habits, etc., for ladies, in a book intended solely for the benefit and use of tailors. But I would not consider my work quite complete if I omitted to notice tills branch of our business, which of late years has become more and more closely connected with it. Time was wlien Tailors were rarely ever requested to make a garment for lady's wear, and even then ^w cared to under- take the job, but the superiority of style, fit and workmanship of garments so made were such that it has grown to be a recognized fact that they can never prop- erly be made except by those in the legitimate business. Owing to this, I have determined to give the result of my own labor in the above line, feeling as- sured that many of my readers will have occasion, off and on, to put the same to profit. ©ii'edtioii^ foi' Di'kftii]^ I<^y'^' fjeefir^^ Jkdket by tl)e f)ivi^ioi\kl ^y^terq. As Shown in Diagram 10. Measure 13|, 23^, 26, 11, 22^, 36, 26, 58. The above measures are taken in the same matter as described for a frock coat, as follows : Length of waist, 13i ; full length, 23i; shoulder, 26; blade, 11, 22^ ; 32 LI NTH I C UM ' S S YS TE MS. breast, 36 ; waist, 26, and over the skirts at the bottom of the Jacket, 58 inches. Draw base line A A. From O to 1 and 2 mark the figures corresponding with the shoulder measure 26 on Division A and B bj^ placing O on the tape at on the Diagram. And at 3, mark tlie figures corresponding with the breast measure 36 on Division C. Draw line B, C and D at right angles with line A A. From 1 to 4 on line B mark the figures corresponding with the breast measure 36 on Division D, by placing O on the tape at 1 on the Dia- gram. From 2 to 5 on line C mark the figures corresponding with the breast measure 36 on Division E by placing O' on the tape at 2 on the Diagram. From 5 to 6 on line C mark the figures corresponding witli the breast measure 36 on Division F by placing O- on the tajie at 5 on the Diagram. From 3 to 7 on line D mark the fignies coi-res]ionding with the waist measure 26 on Divisicm G by placing O^ on the ta])e at 3 on the Diagram. Draw lin(> E from 7 tlirough o to 8, and line F from 5 to (). It will be ol)served by the operator in apjilying the blade measure from 2 to T), tliat the distance given by Division E is a half inch greater tiian the measure which in this case must be taken from the side body, as shown in the Diagram. When cutting garments for ladies, al- ways draw line E from 7 through 5, for the pitch of the front shoulder point, and adapt the garment to the measure at the side body, instead of making the changes directed for coats when a variation in the blade measure indicates a stooping or erect form . Place 11 on tlie inch tape at o, and continue the blade measure up line E to 8, adding three-eights of an incli as an allowance for seams, padding, etc. Diaw line G irom 8 to O. From 8 to 9 on line E mark the figures corresponding with the slioulder measure 26 on Division H by placing O^ on the tape at 8 on tlie Diagram. Draw line I from 9 for the jiitch of neck. From 9 to 10 on line I mark the figures corresponding with the breast measure 36 on Division I, b}' placing 0^ on the ta])e at 9 on the Diagram. Draw sweep J for front breast line, using 2 on the back as the pivot. Cuive sweep J out a little at 17 to form the front at waist, as shown in tlie Diagram. Form tlie ni)per ]>art of the liack by making the width at top half the dis- tance ))etween 8 and 9, and less wide at 4 (by a half to three-fourths of an inch) LINTIIICUM'S SY8TE3IS. 33 than the width given by Division D. Apply the measure for lengtli 13 1 inches waist and 23i full length. Measure out from line A at the bot- tom of the back, three to three and a- half inches, as shown at 11 on the Dia- gram. Note. — A/? additio7i-s or cUstances given in inches are intended for the mlddte or 36 Hize^ and in all larger or smaller garments mi/st be increased or diniinisJied accord- ingly/. Form the back seam from the waist to 11, and the side seam of the back simi- lar to a sack coat. Cut tlie back and place it in position to form the shoul- der by placing line F on the back di- rectly on line G, and mark the shoulder and neck gorge, the hollow part of the latter always touching line E. Paste a piece of paper to the forepart large enougli to form the part marked 16. F'orm the upper part of the side body and scye, and apply the measure for size around the bottom from " 17 to 16, in- cluding the back 29 inches, and form the side seam from the waist to 16, as shown by the dottixl lines on the Dia- gram. Draw a sweep (for tlie length in front) from the bottom of the side seam to 17, using the front slioalder point as the pivot. Mark a cut under the arm (tak- ing out from an inch to an inch and a- half at the waist). Form the front double or single breasted as desired. f)ii'edtioi)^ iot f)i'Mtir|^ >'^leeve foi' I^^tly'^^ Hadk by tl|e ©ivife^ioi^^cil ^y^teii|. First measure the scye carefully 15 inches. Draw line 11 at right angles with line C (as shown by the dotted lines). Place a piece of paper under the Draft large enough to form the sleeve. From 5 to 12 mark the figures corresponding with the scye meastire 15 on Division J by placing O" on the tape at 5 on the Diagram. From 5 to 13 and 14 mark the figui'es corresponding with the scye measure 15 on Divisions K and L by placing O" on the tape at 5 on tlie Diagram. Draw a line from 13 to 15, and place O" on the tape at 13, and mark 15 on Division K. Form the sleeve as already directed for a frock coat on Diagram 1, except at 15, at which point tlie sleeve must be reduced at least half an inch, as shown in tlie Diagram. The same amount of fullness and squareness not being desirable in a lady's gaiment. 34 LINTIIKJUM' S SYSTEMS. Clo^e-fittin^ J^dket by tl^e f)iYi^ioi\kl ^3^^ten|. As Shown on Diagram 11. Measure 131, 23|, 26, 11, 22i, 36, 26, 20 (from the back of neck to the hip). 4 First draw base line A A. From O to 1 and 2 mark the figures corresponding with the shoiilder measure 26 on divisions A and B by jilacing O on the tape at O on tlie Diagram, and at 3 mark the figures corresponding with tlie l)n'ast measure 36 on Division C. Diaw lines B, C and D at right angles with line A A. From 1 to 4 mark the figures corre- sponding with the breast measure 86 on Division D by placing O on the tape at 1 on the Diagram. From 2 to 5 on line C mark the figures corresponding with the breast measure 36 on Division E by placing O^ on the tape at 2 on the Diagram. From' 5 to 6 on line C mark the figures corresponding with the breast measure 36 on Division F by placing O^ on the tape at 5 on the Diagram. From 3 to 7 mark the figures corres- ponding with the waist measure 26 on Division G by placing 0^ on the tape at 3 on the Diagram. Draw line E from 7 through 5 to 8, and line F from 5 to 0. It will be ob- served by the operator, in applying the blade measure from 2 to 5, that the dis- tance given by Division E is a half inch greater than the measure, which, in this case, must be taken from the side body, as shown in the Diagram. When cutting garments for ladies, al- ways draw line E from 7 tlirough 5 for the pitch of tlie front shoulder point, and adapt tlie garment to the measure at the side body, instead of making the changes directed for coats when a varia- tion in the blade measure indicates a stooping or erect form. Place 11 on the inch tape at 5, and continue the blade measure up line E to 8, adding three- LINTHIGUM' S SYSTEMS. 35 eighths of an inch as an allowance for seams, padding, etc. Draw line G from 8 to O. From 8 to 9 on line E mark the figures corresponding with the shoulder measure 26 on Division H by placing O* on the tape at 8 on the Diagram. Draw line I from 9 for pitch of neck. From 9 to 10 mark the figures coi-res- ponding with tlie breast measure on Divi- sion I by placing 0^ on the tape at 9 on the Diagram. Draw sweep J for front breast line, using 2 on the back as the pivot. Form the front breast line from sweep J to 21, as shown on the Diagram. Make the width of the back at top half the dis- tance between 8 and 9. Apply the measure 13i waist and 23| full length. Add three inches outside of line A A, as shown at 11 on the Diagram. Note. — All additions or distances given in inches are intended, for the middle or 36 size., and, in all larger or smaller gar- ments must he increased or decreased ac- cordingly. Make the width of back at the waist one and a-half inches, and the bottom from 11 to 18, six inches. Form and cut the back, making the width at 4 a half inch less than given by Division D. Place back in position to form the shoulder by placing line F on the back directly on G, and mark the shoulder and neck gorge, the hollow part of the latter always resting on line E. Form the line of the side body, lap- jiing it on the back nearly out to 11, as shown by the dotted lines at 19. From 19 to 20 mark ten and a-half inches. Apply the measure twenty inches from 8 to 16, and draw sweep K from 16 to 17, using the front shoulder point as the pivot. From 21 around the bottom to 22 mark twenty inches. Form the lapel and front of Jacket. We now have the back, front and bot- tom of the Jacket, and the remainder must be marked with care. Apply the waist measure at the small- est part, and ascertain the exact quantity to be dispensed with, and form two cuts, as shown in the Diagram and marked X, X, and between 23 and 24, and between 25 and 26, take out the surplus cloth to reduce the Jacket to the exact waist measure. Take out half an inch between K and L (as spring for the skirt), between 16 and 17. Add a little fullness to the skirt at 17, and have it sewed in to the body. 36 LINTHIGUM'S SYSTEMS. ©ii'edtioii,^ foi' f)i'kftii\^ gleeve foi' Is^iu'ii\^ foi' tl)e jsfew 'Pluiqb ^y^tenq. First, take the fuU length of waist and skirt, and then length of sleeve, from the centre of the back, in the usual way, over a Coat. The breast 36 and waist 32 over the vest. (Turn to Figure or Dia- gram No. 40). Remove the Coat, and mark at the side of the neck on the Vest, as shown on the figure at A, the exact location you desire the shoulder point distant from the socket-bone, for width of back. In the medium sizes, two and three-quarter- to three inches. (The distance in sizes ranging from 34 to 4.5 inches, breast measure, will be from 2^ to 3| inches). See that the seam of tlie Vest back is in the centre of the body, and the Vest drawai in moderately close at tlie waist by the strap and buckle. Now place the Plumb line in position, directly in front of the shoulder (as rep- resented on the figure). By drawing the line over the shoulder, and slipping it uj) and down a few times, the weight at- tached to the line will draw it to the de- sired place in front of the arm. Request your customer to remain quiet until the weiglit is still, then mark the Vest per- pendicular with the line at B, and at the hollow of waist at C. Cross this latter mark just over the hii) in tlie mo.st hoi- LINTiriCUM'S SYSTEMS. 41 low part of the waist. Lay aside the Plumb line and proceed with the inch tape, to take the follo\Ting measures veri/ carefidli/, keei^ing the customer in as near tlie same position as possible : From st)cket-lione to the mark at the side of the neck A, say 2| inches. Then place end of the tape at tlie mark A, and measure down in front of the arm, and Avith the fingers of the riglit hand placed under the arm, ascertain the correct depth of scye, say 9h inches, and continue the measure to the mark at the hollow of the waist C, say 18 inches. From tlie same point. A, di'aw the measure back of the arm in as straight a line as possible, over the shoulder blade, down to C, at waist (represented on the Figui-e by the dotted line), say lOi inches. Place the end of the tape in the centre of the back, opposite tlie bt)ttom of tlie scye, and measure forward to the front of the scye (the mark at B), say llA inches. Place the end of the tape in the centre of the back at the hollow part of the waist, and measure forward to the mark at C, say 71 inches. The measure as above taken will read 19, 38, 20^, 32, 30, 32, 2h, dh, 18, 19|, m, 72. ©ii'edtioiv'^ foi' ©liiftii)^ Sody- doh,t^ hy tl\Q ]\'Iek^iii'eii(ei)t DiAGEAM 14. From the measures taken, which read as follows— 19, 38, 71, 201, 32, 36, 32, 2i, 9|, 18, 191, 111, 7|^ First draw base line A A. From O to I apply the measure as taken on the body 9i inches. From O to 2, 18 inches. From O to 01, the breast measure, 36 inches. 42 LINTHIGUM'S SYSTEMS. From 2 to 5, at the top of back, 19^ inches. From 1 to 6, 11 1 inches. From 2 to 7, 7| inches. Divide tlie distance between between and 1 into two equal parts, as sliown at 3, and the distance between and 3 into two eqnal parts, as shown at 4. Use 01 as the pivot, and sweep line E from 2, line F from 1, line G from 3, line H from 4, and a line from O to K for the front shoulder j)oint. Use 2 as the pivot, and sweep line D tlirough 7, and line B through 5. Use 1 as the pivot, and sweep line C through 6. Draw line L (for back seam) through the intersection of lines F and C, three-fourths of an inch outside of line D (to allow for material taken out between the l)ack and side body at the natural waist). Measure in from line L at 8 to 9, 21 inches (as taken on the body). Square from 8 to 9 with line L, and form the to]) of back as shown on the Diagram, from 10 to 9. Measure for width of back Ih inches from line L to 1(J. Form, the back, keej)- ing the point at 10 one-foui'th of an inch above line G. Di'uw line 1 from 1 to 12 at right angles with line A A, and line J from 2 at right angles witli line A A. Place the inch measure again (in tiie Draft, starting from sweep C at 6, with llj, resting at 1, and mark half the breast measure, 18 inches, at 11, and add 2| inches from 11 to 12 Divide the distance between 1 and 11 on line I in exact equal parts, as shown at 14. Place the measure, starting from sweep D at 7, with 7J inches, resting at 2, and mark at 13, on line J, half the waist measure, 16 inches, adding one inch, for- ward of 13, for front of coat. Divide the distance between 2 and 13 on line J in exact equal parts, as shown at 15. Draw a line fi'om IS through 14 to K, for pitch of the front shoulder point. Draw a line from K (front shoulder point), with the straight edge resting on line H, as shown on the Diagram by the dotted lines from K to 17. From 21 to 22, mark one-fourth of the breast measure. Apply the measure for length of waist 19 inches. Draw a sweep from the bottom of the side-l)ody to the front (to regulate the length of the forepart), using the front shoulder point at K as the pivot. Complete and cut tlie back. Place the tliunib of the left hand on line F, where the back joins the side- l)ody, and mov(> tli<^ top of back forward till the distance between K K along the dotted line is lU inches, the same as be- tween 6 and 1 on line F. WJiile the back is in this })osition, form the back LIN THI C UM ' S S TS TEMS. 43 part of the scye and the side seam, tak- ing out a half to three-fourths of an inch between the back and side-body, at the nntural waist, according to the require- ments of the customer. Place 9 on the back at K on the fore- part, and form the shoulder, neck gorge, and the remainder of the scye. Complete the front, waist seam, and the side-body, adding the necessary spring at the bot- tom of side-body, instead of taking out a piece under the arm. When a square or high shoulder is de- sired, raise the back at 16, and the shoul- der above line H, and add in making an equivalent in wadding. It is desirable that this be done when the shoulders of the customer are inclined to droop. In fact, it is the duty of the cutter to de- tect and improve all the imperfections of his customers. In this lies the true art of his calling. f)ii'edtioq>«^ foi' Di'kftiq^ Sleeve by tl\e ]VIea:^ureii(ei\t By)^teii|. First, measure the scye witli care, 16 inches, and place a piece of paper under the Draft large enougli to form tlie sleeve. It will be observed that this sleeve, like that in the Divisional System, is drafted in tlie position in which it is to be sewed in the coat, producing the cor- rect length of back and forearm seams. From 3 to 18 mark half the scye meas- ure, 8 inches, and from 1 to 19 mark one-sixteenth of the scye measure. Form the top of sleeve, having the part at 16 as much above line G as the back is above line CI and the shoulder point above line II combined. Have the sleeve at 20 as far forward of line A A as 19 is forward at 1, as shown on the Diagram. Ajoply the measure for length to the elbow 20| inches (less the width of the back), and full length 32 inches. Com- plete the form of the sleeve, and by using hard chalk or lead, the lines of the sleeve will be indented on the paper un- der the Draft. ©ii^edtioi)^ foi' Di'^ftii^^ Sody^ ^{\6k by tl]e >Ieh.t^urerr(ei]t ^y^tetr|. Diagram 1.5. From tlie same measure as taken for body coat, which reads as follows : 19, 38, 36, 32, 7|. 20|, 32, 2i, 9^, 18, 191, Hi, 7| ; length of sack, 30' inches. Draw base line A A. From O to 1, apply the measure as taken on the body, 9^ inches ; from O to 44 LINTHIVUM' S SYSTEMS. 2, 18 inches, and from O to 01, the breast measnre, 3G inches. From 2 to 6, at tlie top of the back, 19| incites ; from 1 to 6, Hi inches. Divide the distance between O and 1 into two equal parts, as shown at 3. Divide tlie distance between O and 3 into two equal parts as shown at 4. Use 01 as the pivot, and sweep line G from 3, line H from 4, and a line from O to K for the front shoulder point. Draw line F at riylit :ini;-h'S with line A A ; and line- L L, for centre of back, at right angles with line F, from G. Ap])ly the measure 2i inches from line L at 8 find 9. Square fi-om 8 to 9 with line L, and form the top of back, as shown in the Diagram, from 10 to 9. Measure for width of back 7i inches from line L to 16. Form the back by cuiving in the centie seam at the waist about lialf an inch, the width to fancy, and take out al)Out oik; inch between the back and forepai-t at the natural waist. Have the back at IG a fourth to half an inch above line G. Draw line I from 1 to 12 at right angles witii lim? A A, and line J, from 2 to 13, at right angles with line A A. Place the inch tape again on the Draft, starting from G on line L with llj inches, resting at 1, and mark half the breast measure 18 inches at 11, and add 2| inches from 11 to 12. Divide the distance between 1 and 11 in exact equal parts, as shown at 14. Place Tj inches on the tape at 2 on the Diagram, and measure forward on line J to 13, half the waist measure, 16 inches, and add one inch for front of coat. Divide the distance between 2 and 13 on line J, in exact ecpial ]iarts. as shown at la. Draw a line from 15. through 14 to K, for pitcli of the front shoulder point. Draw a line from K (front shoulder point\ with the straight edge resting on LIXTIIICUM'S SYSTEMS. 45 line H, as shown on tlie Diagram by tlie dotted lines from K to 17. From 21 to 22, mark one-fourth of the breast measure for the k^notli of the neck gorge. Apply the measure for length 3(U inches, and cut the back. Place 9 on the back at K on the fore- part, and form the shoulder, the neck gorge, and tlie remainder of the scye. Use the front shoulder j)oint at K as tiie pivot, and draw a sweep from the bottom of the side seam forward for the length of front. Draw the front bi'east line from 12 one inch forward of 13 (at the waist), to in- tersect the sweep, and complete the form of the front, double or single breasted, as desired, and delineated on the Dia- gram. When a square or high shoulder is de- sired, raise the back at 16 and the shoulder above line H, and add in mak- ing an equivalent in wadding. It is de- sirable that tliis be done, to some ex- tent, in all cases where the shoulders of the customer are inclined to droop. In fact, it is the duty of tlie cutter to de- tect and improve all the imperfections of his customers. In this lies the true art of his calling:. ©ii'edtioiv'^ foi^ f)i'kftii\^ Sleeve foi' Soely-^kdk by tl^e >Iek^ui'e- ir(eT|t ^3^^terq. Fii'st measure the scye -with care IG inches. It will be observed that this sleeve, like that in the Divisional System, is drafted in the position in which it is to be sewed in the coat, producing the cor- rect length of back and forearm seam. From 3 to 18, mark half the scye measure, 8 inches. From 1 to 19, marlc one-sixteenth of the scye measure. Form the top of the sleeve, having the part at 16 as much above line Gr as the back is above line G and the shoulder point above line H combined. Have the sleeve at 20 as far forward of liuf, A A as 19 is forward at 1, as shown on the Diagram. Apply the measure for length to the elbow, 20| inches (less the width of the ])ack), and full length, 32 inches. Com- plete the form of tlie sleeve, as shown on the Diaoram. !)ii'ectioix^ iot Draftii)^ Ovei'-gkdk by tl\e ^Iea,^uren|ei)t ^y^teir|. As Shown ox Diagram 16. By the measure already taken, and wliich reads as follows : 19, 38, 7^, 20|, 46 LINTBICUM\S S YS TEMS. 32, 36, 32, 2i, 9i, 18, 19i, 11|, 7|, which should be enlarged as follows for an over-sack, intended to be worn over an under coat of medium weight — -39, 8, 21, 33, 38, 34, 10|, 18, 191, 12, SJ. If the oversack is desired loose, or to the hip, 18 and 19|, are not increased, as they are balance measures only, and have no reference to size or length. First draw base line A A. From O to 1 apply the measure, as enlarged, lOJ inches. be worn over a very thick under coat, add thrt'e inclies to the breast and waist measure, and a proportionate increase to the other measures which are enlarged. It will be observed that the two meas- ures taken from the side of the neck to From O to 2, 18 inches ; and fiom to 01, tlie breast measure, as enlarged, 38 inches. From 2 to 5, at the top of the back, 191 inches. From 1 to 0, 12 inches (as enlarged). LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 47 Divide tlie distance between O and 1 into two eqnal parts, as shown at 3, and the distance between O and 3 into two equal parts, as shown at 4. Use 01 as the jaivot, and sweep line G from 3, line H from 4, and a line from O to K for the front shoulder point. Draw line F at right angles with line A A to 6, and line L L at right angles with F for centre back seam, from 6. Apply the measure, 2\ inches, for width of back, between 8 and 9. Square from 8 to 9 at right angles with line L L, and form the top of back, as shown on the Diagram, from 10 to 9. Measure for the width of back S inches from line L to 16. Form the back by curving the centre seam, inside of line L, L, a half inch at the natural waist, and adding a litth^ outside of line L L at 25, making the widtli of the back to fancy, and take out one inch between the l)ack and fore- part at the waist. Mark the back at 16 a half to three fourths of an inch above line G. Draw line I, from 1 to 12, at right angles witli line A A. Phice the inch tape again on the Draft, starting from 6 on line L with 12 inches, resting at 1, and mark lialf the breast measure (as enlarged), 19 inches, at 11, and add 2J inches from 11 to 13. Divide the dis- tance between 1 and 11 on line I, in ex- act equal parts, as showm at 14. Place 8j inches on the inch tape at 2 on the Diagram, and measure forward on line J to 13, half the waist measure (as enlarged) 17 inches, and add one inch and a-half for front breast line. Divide the distance between 2 and 13, on line J, in exact equal parts, as shown at 15. Draw a line from 15, through 14, to K, for the pitch of front shoulder point. Draw a line from K (front shoulder point), witli the straight edge resting on line H, as shown on the Diagram by the dotted lines from K to 17. From 21 and 22 mark one-fourtli of the breast 'measure for the length of neck gorge. App]y the measure 39 inches for length, and cut the back. Place 9 on the baciv at K on the forepart, and form the scye, shoulder, and tlie neck gorge. Use tlie front shoulder point at K as the pivot, and sweep a line from tlie bot- tom of the side seam forward for the length of front. Draw the front breast line X X from 12 one inch and a-half forwai'd of 13 (at the waist), to intersect the sweep at 24, and complete the form of the front double or single breasted, as desired and de- lineated on the Diagram. 48 LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. When a square or high shoulder is de- sired, raise the back at 16 and the shoul- der above line H, and add an equivalent in wadding wln'u making. It is desirable that this be done, to some extent, on all customers where the shoulders are in- clined to droop. In fact, it is the duty of the cutter to detect and improve all the imperfections of his customers. In this lies the true art of his calling. f)ii'edtioii>^ foi' ©I'kftir^^ Sleeve foi' OYei'-^h..dk hy tl^e >Iea&We- First measure the scye with care 17 inches. This Sleeve, like all so far described in this work, is drafted in the position in which it is to be sewed in the coat, i>ro- ducing the correct length of back and forearm seams. From 3 to 18, mark half the scye meas- ure, 8| inches. From 1 to 19, mark one-sixteenth of the scye measure. Fnrm the toi» f>f sleeve, having tlie ])art at Ki as much above line G as the Itack is above line G and the shoulder- pi lint above line H com1)ined. Have the sleeve at 20 as far forward of line A A as 19 is forward at 1, as shown on the Diagram. Complete and cut the sleeve as hereto- fore directed for bodv-sack. f)ii'edtioi|,<^ iot Diiiftiii^ ¥i'oii^ei'^. As Shown on Diagkam 17. By the measure taken as follows : From the hip to the knee, 24 ; full length, 42 ; inside seam, H2 ; Avaist, 30 ; seat, 30; knee, li);j ; Ixittom, 18. From O to 1, apply the measure 24 inches. LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 49 From O to 2, 42 inclies (full length of trousers). From 2 to 3, 32 inches (length of inside seam). Draw lines B, C and D, at right angles with line A A. From 3 to 4 on line B, mark one- fourth of the seat measure ; from 4 to .'5, mark one-fourth ; and from 5 to 6, mark one-eighth of the seat measure. Draw line E from 4 to 7 (very care- fully), at right angles with line B. From 7 to 8, mark three inches. From 7 to 9, mark three inclies (in all cases), and from 9 to 10, one inch, mak- ing the width of the bottom seven inches. Draw line F from 9 through 5 to 11 (to pitch the front waist line). Reduce the width of the front at 3 about half an inch, and draw a line for the outside seam from 8 to 3. From 11 to 12 mark one-fourth of the waist measure, and complete the form of the outside seam as sliowai on the diagram from 12 to 3. When cutting for small-waisted customers, drop the front, as shown on the diagram, at 11, and raise it when the customer is corpulent. Form the inside seam, from 6 to 10, ac- cording to the prevailing fashion, taking care not to curve it too mm^h. Now C(mies one of the most important points in tn^is- ers cutting. "The dress," upon this as upon every other sid:)ject, there are many conflicting opinions ; mine, of course, to me, seems reasonable. The sack which contains the testicles and the penis is sus- pended in the centre of the body below the abdomen, the latter measuring at least one and a half inches at the root, where it joins to the body, and the former requiring considerable space in width Just below the crotch, and it is necessary that provision be made in order to secure a good, clean fit. If ti'ousers, that are intended to fit at all close, be cut without dress and placed on the bod}', the seam down the front must in consequence be on one side of the penis, which removes it from the centi'e three- fourths of an inch, which causes a tight- ness on the dreys and an unsightly fullness on the undress side. I produce a remedy for this ugly fault by cutting away the undress side a half to three-fourths of an inch and adding the same quantity to the dress side as represented on the diagram under con- sideration, oi' in other woi'ds, cutting the front seam three-fourths of an inch from the centre and leaving the dress side, at 6, at least one and a half inches greater than the iTudress side, thus securing a clean, smooth fit in the crotch, and a remedy for the leg of the dress side twisting at the bottom ; complete the draft of the crotch by marking forward and Itack of 6 a half to three-fourths of an inch, and the same 50 LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. quantity liack and forward of the front line at 11, and complete and cut the front and place in position to draft the back part as shown on diagram 18. Continue lines B, C, and D. From G to 14, on line B, mark one- f'ightli of the seat-measure. From 5 to 13, on line F, mark one-third of the seat- measure. Draw line G, from G, through 13 for the iMtcli of the back. Apply half the waist measure 15 inches from 11 to 12, and from 19 to 20, adding two inches (17 in all) for seams, and the cut, which is taken out over the hips to give them fonn. Apply half the seat-measure IS inches from 5 to 15 and 5 to 16, on line B. Apply the measure to ascertain the size of the bottom 18 inches. Half tlie inci'ease in the width of the back over the front must be added to each side of the front [at the bottom, for instance : in the present draft the size is 18 inches, the top side or front is already cut seven inches, leaving eleven inches for the back, which is four inches greater than the front ; place half of this, or two inches between 10 and IS, and the balance between 8 and 17 always adding for seams. Apply the nieasure for the size of knee 19^ inches and add for seams. Complete the lines for the back part as delineated on the diagram, dropping tlie crotch of the back part, as shown at 14, three-eighths of an inch. The waist-band may he added or cut separate as shown on tlie diagrams now be- ing described. All the divisions used in the above directions apply to the seat- measure. AVheu the customer has hips larger than the average, it is desirable that a measure be taken over the most proininent part, and applied to the draft. The same meas- LINTHIOUM'S SYSTEMS. 51 ure should be taken for a very corpulent man when the belly is prominent between the waist and seat-measure. I have directed that the distance between 7 and 9, on line D, be, in all cases, three inches ; 9 serves as a pivot from which to draw line F, which fixes the front of the trousei'S at 11, and will range back or forward in proportion to the size of the seat, as fixed between 4 and 5. In the Diagram for corpulent figures the distance is greater than in the one just nnder con- sideration, in consequence of the seat- measure being larger, and line F being drawn from 9 (which is three inches inside of centre balance line at the bottom) through 5, thus placing the top of the line more forward and providing space for the corpulent or large-bellied man. Dii'edtioi),^ foi' 1)i"ciftii\^ Yi'ou^ei'^. foi' h, doi''piiler(t fi^m'e by tl)e followii]^ As Shown on Diagkam 19. Measure 25, 44, 3U, 44, 45, 22, 19. Draw base line A, A. From to 1 apply the measure 25 in- ches, and from O to 2, f()sition to draft the l)ack part by extending lines B, (' and D. From H to 14, (m line B, mark one- eighth of tlie seat-measure, and from o to 13 mark one-third of the seat-measure. Draw line (I, from (3, through 13 for the pitch of the back. Apply half the waist-measure twenty-two inches, from 11 to 12, and from 19 to 20 ailding sufficient for the seams and cut, and half the seat-measure twenty-two and one- half inches from .'5 to I.") and .") to Hi on line B ; apply the measure to ascertain the size of the liottom nineteen inches ; half the increase in the width of the back over the front must be added to each side of the front at the bottom, for instance : In the present draft the measure is nineteen inches ; the front or top side is already cut seven inches, leaving twelve inches for the back, which is five inches greater than the front ; place half of this, or two and a half inches between 10 and 18, and the balance between 8 and 17, always adding for seams. Ajiply the measure for the size of the knee and add for seams ; complete the remain- der of the draft, as directed in the previous diagram, dropping the crotch at 14 about three fourths of an inch, and have the underside stretched up to meet 6 on the front. hiitl Clo>^e ^itttii^ ¥i'ou0ei'^. As Siiowx ox DiA(ii:.\M 20. IVfeasure 24, 42, 32, 30, 36, 17, 17. Draw base line A, A. From O to 1, apply the measure 24 in- ches. From to 2, apply the measure for full length, 42 inches (adding one inch to the length in all cases where the trousers are intended for riding exclusively.) L IN Till C UM 'S SYS TEMS. m From 2 to 3, thirty-two inches, adding one inch, as directed for the outside seam. Draw lines B, C, and D, at right angles with line A, A. From 8 to 4, on line B, mark one-fonrth of the seat-measure From 4 to 5, mark one-fourth, and from 5 to 6 one-eighth of the seat-measure. Draw line E, very carefully, from 4 to 7, at right angles with line B. From 7 to 8, on line D, mark three in- ches. From 7 to 9, mark three inches (in all cases), and from 9 to 10, one incli — ma- king the width of the bottom seven in- ches. Draw line F from 9, through 5 to 11 (to pitch the front-waist line.) Reduce the width of the front at 3 about half an inch, and draw a line from 8 to 3 for tlie outside seam. From 11 to 12, mark one-fourth of the waist-measure and complete the outside seam as shown from 12 to 3. When draft- ing for small - waisted customers always drop the front at 11; for full-waisted men let the top be square with line A, A, and for co'-pnlent figures raise the front as al- ready directed in the diagram for corpu- lent figures. Form the inside seam from 6 to 10. Before marking the crotch turn to page 49, and observe the remarks in reference to the dress and apply them to this draft. Cut the front and place it in position to draft the back-part by extending the lines B, C and D. From 6 to 14, on line B, mark one-eighth of the seat-measure, and from 5 to 13 one- fourth of the seMt-measure, instead of one- third as directed for other trousers, this 54 LINTIIICUM'S H r.S TE.VS. pair being intended for use in the saddle, and requiring a more crooked seat to give ease to tiie wearer when sitting. Draw line G from 6 through 13, for the pitch of the back. Apply half the waist-measure 35 inches from li to 12, and from 19 to 20 adding two inches for seams and the cut over the hip. Apply half the seat-measure 18 ijiches from 5 to 15, and from 5 to 16 on line B. Apply the measure to ascertain the size of the bottom 17 inches ; half the increase in the widtli of the back over the front must be added to each side of the front, at the bottom, for instance : In the pres- ent draft the measure is 17 inclies; tlie front is already cut 7 inches, leaving 10 inches for the back, whicli is 3 inches greater than the front, ]i]!ice one-half of this or one inch and a lialf between 10 and 18, and the balance Itetween 8 and 17, always adding for seams ; nj^ply the m(»as- nre for the size of knee ;ind add for seams. Use 4, on line B, as the pivot, and draw sweep TI from (3 and form tlie seat-line and inside seam of the back-pai't as sliown on the diagram. Draw the outside seam of tlie back, as shown from 20, through 10 to 17, allowing, jnst below line C for th<' swell of tlie c;ilf. All trousei's foi' riding must be made uj) witli strai)s at the bottf)m. f)ii'e^tioi)^ foi' ©Aftiii^ ^i ^kii't foi' li S^i'odk Cloat. As Shown on Diagram 21. Draw base line A. From to 1 mai'k the length of skirt 19 inches ; place the corner of tiui square at O, Avith the short arm on line A, and raise the long arm until 12 on tlie short arm is one inch fiom line A, as shown at 2, and the dotted lines; while the square is in tills position draw line B; place the fore]iart-lapel and side -body in position, and ascertain the size of the skirt. Drop the top of tlie skirt (as shown at 3) a fourth or three- eighths, touch line B at 4, and iidajit the skirt to the form of tlie forei)art, as shown at o ; form tln' plait LIXTIIICUJirS SYSTEMS. 55 ill hainiony witli the curve of the side- body as shown in the diagram. It is desirable that the skirt of a frock- coat liaiig as close as possible to the thighs, and in order to produce this re- sult the top of the skirt must be cut as directed above with one inch fullness sewed in and carefully pressed out; the plait of till' skirt should be cut a half-inch longer than the back skirt and contracted with a stay and the round pressed forward to the jjrominent part of the hip. A skirt cut, as above directed, will serve for a bod}- drafted by either the divisional or measurement sj'stems. Dii'edtioii^ foi' Di'liftiii^ h ^kii't foi' Biii^le 01' f)oiil3le-8i'e^^ted ^loi'iiiii^ Coh.t. Diagram 2'2. Draw liase line A. From O to 1, mark the length of skirt. Place the corner of the square at O, with the short arm resting on line A, and raiso the long arm until 12 on the short aim is one inch from line A, as shown by the dott(>d lines at 2. While the square is in this position draw line B, and form the to]i of the skirt by mark- ing in from O to 3, about one incji, and form the plait ; drop line B a seam at 3, and a half to three-fourths of an inch at 4. Place the fore-part and side-body in position, and form the front of skirt in harmony with the front breast line. The above draft will serve for either of the sj^stems published in this work. Cllt-clAY^y Co^t^. As Shown on Diagkam 23. Diagram 23 gives illustrations of three popular styles of cutaway coats, given more ]iarticularly for the benefit and guid- ance of those wlio are not advanced in the art of garment cutting. 5G LINTHtC VM ' S S TS TEMS. Letter A shows the fore-part, as cut for a double - breasted frock - coat, while B points out the change or additions neces- sary for a double-breasted cut-away with the front of skirt attached. Dotted lines C forms the front and skirt of a single-breasted walking or cut-away coat, and dotted line D delineates the front and skirt of a two-button cut-away with collar, which also serves for the single button cut-away. Wiii^t-dokt^. The following six diagrams will give the operator a good idea of the variety of waist-coats in common use at the present time. It is always best (when a double- breasted or fancy waist-coat is to be drafted) to first form the front or fore-part as shown on diagram 7, and when com- pleted make the necessary addition or change to produce the garment desired. Diagram 24 — Shows the fore-part or front of waist - coat as drafted, with the lapel and collar cut separate. When cut in this manner three or four buttons maj^ be used. Diagram 25 — Gives the front and collar for a military or clerical waist-coat ; the front has nine buttons and holes with standing-collar as shown. Diagram 26 — Shows a waist - coat for full-dress. It is cut well down in front, but three buttons being used, and rolling- collar. Care must be taken in drafting this waist-coat so that the length may be the same as the front of the coat. A dressy and desirable finish is produced by sewing on a fine soutasche braid a little back of the edge on dress waist-coats, and LINTHICUM' S SYSTEMS. 57 is used at the present time by nearly all the fine houses. Diagram 27. — A shows the lines of the front or fore-part as originally drafted with the changes or additions for a double breasted waist-coat, with the lapel and fore-part cut in one piece. Diagram 28 — Illustrates a single-breasted waist-coat with notched collar and five buttons. This style of waistcoat is adapt- ed to be worn with the cut-away coat. Diagram 29 — Gives a fancy style of double-breasted waist -coat. In this, as stated in descril)ing the preceding dia- grams, the lines of the original pattern are first given, and marked A and B, then the desired additions are "made. f)ii'edtioT\^ foi' i^oi'n|ii\^ ki\ It\Yei'- i\e><^ oi' dkrpe-docit iDy ^t\ Ovei'-^kdk f^kttei'i\. As SnowN" oTf Diagram 30. By the following measures : length from collar seam down the back, 43 inches ; from the same starting j^oint directly over the point of the shoulder to the knuckles. 32 inches ; half the neck, 9i inches ; and around the chest, oi^er the waist-coat, 36 inches. Select the over-sack pattern, correspond- iiig to the size of the breast-measure, 36 inches, which has been cut by the enlarged measure (as already directed for all over- coats.) Draw base-liue A. From O to O mark one-tliird of the 58 L INT HI CUM' 8 S TS TEMS. breast-measure. From O to 1 mark oue- sixtli of the breast- measure. Draw line B from 1 at right angles with line A ; place the sack pattern in position with the front-shoulder point at O, and the neck points at O as directed above) so that the top of the side seam and the point on the back wliich joins it, will botli touch sweep C, as shown by the dotted lines on the diagram. Open the neck juiint of tlie back at tht; other (). Draw sweep C (using 1 on line A as the pivot) to touch the top of the side seam on tile f(>re-]nti't. Adjust the back and fi'ont (keeping the ])attern at the bottom, keeping the points above described on line C, until the distance between X, X (around the bot- tom) is equal to the breast-measui'e. From 1 to 2, on line B, mark half the L IX Till CUM • S S YS TEMS. ■59 breast-measure. Draw sweep D, using 1 as the pivot. Form the back, continuing the shoulder seam of the sack pattern, as shown by line F to 5, on the diagram. Form curved line E, from 4 to 3, reduc- ing the width of the shoulder as shown at 4. Bring the curved line fully as far for- ward in the cape-coat as the arm-hole is forward in the sack pattern. Form the remainder of the body by the coat pattern, making the centre back seam straight. Cut the back and front, and place the latter on the paper and prepare to draft the cape. Form the neck gorge and front of the cape by the pattern, as shown on the dia- gram. Draw line H from O for the back part of cape, adding above the shoulder on the fore-part about three-fourths of an inch, as show.n at 6. Apply tlie measi;re for the length of cape from O to 7, thirty-two inches less the width of the top of back, and complete the cape. The front of the cape may be cut to lap and button, as shown on the diagram, or may be cut less full and only meet at the front when tlie coat is buttoned. In order to join this coat together cor- rectly, have the parts from O to 4, on the the fore-part, the notch on the caj^e and back to join in one seam. Line H on the cape between the notch and 3 join together, and the remainder of the cape sews in vpith the side seam below 3. G, G represents the shape of collar best adapted to this garment. It admits of the coat buttoning to tlie throat, as it is almost universally worn. ©ii'edtioi)^ foi' ©I'^ftiii^ \ Sleeve l)Y tl)e Divi^ioi]^! ^y^tetq. As Shown on Diagram 31. I advise that the sleeve in all cases be drafted in the fore-part, as already directed. If, however, the operator prefers to draft it separately from the body, the following diagram will give the lines necessary to a 60 LINTEICUM'S SYSTEMS. correct drafting of tlie sleeve. When the customer stoops forward, or is erect, and the measure taken from the centre of back to the front of scye varies from the dis- tance given by division E, it will be neces- sary to make precisely the same changes at 5 and the top of back, as I have directed for stooping and erect forms, in order to secure the correct length of the back and fore-ann seam. Measure the scye carefully, say 16 in- ches. Draw base line A. From O to 2 mark 27 (shoulder measure on division B.) Draw line C at right angles with line A. From 2 to 5, on line C, mark 80, breast-measure on Division E. Draw line F from 5 to O. From S to 12, mark the figures corres- ponding with the scye, measure 16 on division J, by placing O" on the tape at 5 on the diagram. From 5 to 13 and 14, mark the figures, corresponding with the scye, measure 16 on divisions K and L, by placing O"^ on the tape at ii on the diagram. Draw a Hue fi'om 13 t() lij at right angles with line F, and place O" at 13, and mark at IH tlie scye measure f)n division K. Draw line 11 from 5, at right angles with line C, and complete the remaining part of the sleeve as previously directed. I will renuiJ-k here, before leaving this subject, that many finely cut shoulders are spoiled by the shortness of the top sleeve, which should be raised or increased in length equal to the additions in the draft of the fore-jiart for producing square shoul- ders. By observing and practicing the above suggestions, the unsightly dragging about the shoulders caused by a short top will be avoided. Dii'edtioi],^ foi' !)i"ciftii]^ ^kii't foi' As Shown on Diagram 32. Draw base line A. From O to 1 mark the length of skirt 19 inches. Place the corner of the square at O with the short arm resting on line A, and raise the long arm until 12 on the short arm is one inch from line A, as shown by the dotted lines at 2. Mark in on line B, one inch fiom O, and form the plait-line. Form the top of the skirt l)y dropping line B a seam, as shown at 3 ; touch the line at 4 and at 5 ; drop the front about one inch. Place the fore-part and side-body in posi- tion, as shown on the diagram. Line C at the bottom shows the pattern as drafted for a frock-coat, and the dotted lines at 6 the change necessary for a dress- coat, complete the skirt as shown. The L TXT II I CUM • S S YS TEMS. Gl strap at tli(? front of skirt may be added to the fore-part if desired. The projser lapel and collar is also given in this diagram, tlie latter with a notch in front, which may be omitted or nsed at pleasure. 1) oiili] e -bi'ea ^teel lJi)i f orii] . As Siiowx ON Diagram 38. The body of a coat designed for a uni- form is cut similar in every wav to that of a donljle-breasted frock, with the excep- tion that the front-shoulder point should be more straight. This coat being worn but- toned, at all times, requires to be cut close at the neck to jirevent the unsightly looseness which would be the result if the shoulder be cut too crooked. Line C, at the shoulder point and top of the fore-part, represent the pattern as cut for the ordinary double-breasted frock- coat, and the dotted lines 5, the changes desirable for a uniform coat. To draft skirt for a military coat, first draAv base- line A. From O to 1 mark the length of skirt. Place the corner of the square at O, with the short arm resting on line A, and raise the long aim until 12 on the short arm is one and a half inches from line A, as shown i;y the dotted lines at 2. While the square is in this position draw line B ; place the fore-i)art, side-body, and lai)el in position to ascertain the size (allowing one and a half inches for fullness, which, in making, must be sewed in over the hip and pressed out.) Form the top of the skirt starting on line B at 3, drop]iing three-eighths to half an inch at 4 and end- ing at O. Fonn the plait similar to a frock-coat skirt, adding side edges, as shown at 6. Fniforms for officers in the regular ser- vice are constant! \' undergoing some change. 62 LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. It is therefore necessary that tailors receiv- ing orders for this class of work be sup- plied with the latest publication on the subject from the AYar Department, entitled '■'■Uniforrii and Dress of tlte Army of tlie United States,''^ which can be obtained by addressing the Adjutant - General, U. S. Anny, War Depaitment, Washington, D. C. ^ii\gle-l3i'eat^tecl ifiiifoi'ii). As Shown ox Diagram 34. This garment, like that described on Diaerram 33 is cut similar to a double- breasted frock coat, except at the front shoulder point, which should be more straight for the reasons already given on the preceding Diagram. To draft skirt, first draw base line A. From to 1, mark the length of skirt. Place the corner of the square at O with the short aim resting on line A, and raise the long arm till 12 on the short arm is one and a-half inches from line A, as shown by the dotted lines at 2. While the square is in this position, draw line B. Place tile fore-i)art and side-liody in LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 63 position to ascertain the size (allowing one and a-lialf inches for fnllness, which in making must be sewed in over the hip and carefully pressed out). Form the toj) of the skirt by starting on line B at 3, dropping three-eighths to half an inch at 4 and ending at O. Form t\\Q plait into side edges, as sho^\^l at 6. For fuller details, see the United States Army Regulations on the subject. As Shown on Diagram 35. A single-breasted sack coat, cut straight in front, with five buttons closino; to the neck, as shown by the Draft. The back is cut in one i)iece, and the sides slashed. as represented at C. The sleeve is finished with a cuff three ihclie!^ deep, and three buttons. For fuller directions see United States Army Regulations on the subject. As Shown on Diagram 36. The body of this coat is drafted in every way similar to a surtout overcoat. It is therefore suiierfluous to give the full draft. Tlie skirt is also drafted like the 64 LIN Tina UM ' S S Y.S TEMS. frock or surtout coat. The lapel is cut quite straight and wide, with six Inittons and holes, and worked so as to button to the throat. The collar B B is also worked so as to admit of the lapel Imttoning to the top. Large . flaps at the hip iive inches wide and about twelve inches long {according to tlie size of waist'), with three buttons at the points of each flap, the flap covering half of the buttons. Side edges in the plait, with two buttons, as shown at 6. The sleeves are finished with a cuff five inches deep, with three but- tons across the top of each cuff. L(ivei'y Body-doiit. As Shown on Diagram 37. The body and skirt of this coat is drafted in every way like a frock coat. The front has six biittons, and, as a rule, is Avorn buttoned to the neck. It may, however, l^e worn with the top button o}i'3n, and the lapel turned back, as shown by the collar B B. A flap four and a-liall' iiiclics diM'p, and about eleven inches long at tlie U\\), with three buttons, partially covered by the flaps and side edges, witli two buttons, as sliown at 6. Tlie cuff" may Ix; made with a stra}) and tliive buttons, as rep- re.sc'Uted on tlie Diagram, or with a cuff loose at to}), and the buttons jilact'd as represented on the overcoat, as shown on the previous Diagram. A button may be placed on the froiit of the collar, as repre- sented on the Diagram, or omitted at pleasure. f)n'ei5tioi]s^ iot f)raftii|g ].(Ieh^^iu'e As Siiowx ox DiAO. 38. Length, rvi iuo'iies; sleeve, 7, 18, 2.9; breast, 30; neck, 10. Draw ba.-;e line .V A. From (.) to I, mark one-eig'ith ol' the- LINTHIGUM'S SYSTEMS. 05 breast measure. From O to 2, mark one- fourth of the breast measure. Draw line B and C at right angles with line A A. eighth of the breast measure ; and from 4 to 5 one-eighth. Draw line D D, for front breast line, at right angles with line C, and line E From 2 to 3 mark two-thirds of the breast measure. From 3 to 4 mark one- at right angles with line C. From 4 to 6, mark one- third of tlie breast mea- G6 LINTIIICUM'S SYSTEMS. sure, and from 6 to 7 one-sixth of the breast measure. Draw a line forward from 6 at right angles with line E, for pitch of neck. Draw line F from 7 to 1. From O to 9 mark one-eighth of the breast measure, and draw line G from 3 to 9. Form tlie top of back, as shown from 8 to 9 and 9 to 11, raising the back one-fourth or three-eighths of an inch above line G at 11. Apply the measure for the width of back from 1 seven inches. Use O at the top of back as the pivot, and draw a sweep from the bottom of ])ack, as shown from O to IB. From line D D at 12, mark one-third of the breast measure (6 inches) to 13. Form the back from 11 through J J to 13, as represented on the Diagram. Use the top of the side-body as a pivot, and draw a sweep from 13 to 14 for length of the side seam of the side piece. Mark from line A A at 15 one- third of the breast measure (0 inches) from 15 to 14. Form the side seam from the top of side body through K K to 14, and the front seam of tlie side body from a little forward of 3, tlirough L L, to 13. Form the side Sf^am of the fi-ont or foi-cpart from tlie same i)lace through X X X to 16. Measure the lines L L and XXX, and make their lengths equal. Have line XXX touch line A A at 16. This will give ample width at the bottom. Form the remainder of the scye, shoul- der, neck gorge, and front of garment. This coat is usually worn buttoned to the throat, and the collar is therefore cut straight. A belt two and a-half inches in width is worn around the waist, the length being adapted to the fancy of the wearer. A Hood made to button under the col- lar is a desirable appendage for stormy weather or traveling purposes. To Dkaft Sleeve. — First measure the scye 16 inches. Draw line H at right angles with line C, as represented by the dotted lines. From 3 to 10 mark half the scj^e meas- ure 8 inches. Draw line I from 10 to line B for the back seam of the sleeve, and form the sleeve as represented by tlie dotted lines. ¥kWe gliowiii^ tl^e f{elative oi* f^i'opoi'tioifate ^l)Otiltlei' foi' The student will do well to commit the following Table of relative or proportion- ate shoulder for all breast measures to LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 67 memory, and be able to recall any of them when measurino; his customers. He ■---E ■-^■?St'^£ will thereby be enabled to decide more readily the proportions of his customer, and obtain a more correct measure. Breast 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 18 18| 191 2Q\ 21 213 22\ 23i 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 24 24| 25\ 26| 27 27| 28i 29^ 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 30 30 J 311 321 33 333 341 35 j 48 49 50 36 36? 371 f)e>^di'i|»tioi) of !)ik^%ir|^. Diagram 1 on page 11 — Is a Draft for a body-coat by the Divisional System, for a form of good proportions, measuring 36 breast, 32 waist, 27 shoulder, and 11 1 23 blade. Diagram 2 on page 15 — Is a Draft for a Body-coat by the Divisional System for a moderately stooping form, measuring 36 breast, 32 waist, 27 shoulder, and 12 23 blade. Diagram 3 on page 17 — Is a Draft for a Body-coat by the Divisional System for a moderately erect form, measuring 36 breast, 32 waist, 27 shoulder, and 11 23 blade. Diagram 4 on page 20 — Is a Draft for a Body-sack by the Divisional System for a form of good proportions, measuring 36 breast, 32 waist, 27 shoulder, and Hi 23 blade. Diagram 5 on page 23 — Is a Draft for an Over-sack by the Divisional System 68 L INT HI C UM ' S S TS TEMS. for a form of good proportious, measur- ing 36 breast, 32 waist, 27 shoulder, and 11 1 23 blade, and Drafted by the Measure as enlarged, 38 breast, 34 waist, 28^ shoul- der, and 12 24i blade. Diagram 6 on page 25— Is a Draft for a Surtout Overcoat by tlie Divisional Sys- tem, for a form of good pro]iortions, measuring 36 breast, 32 waist, 27 shoul- der, and Hi 23 blade, and Drafted by 38 breast, 34 waist, 28^ shoulder, and 12 24;L blade. Diagram 7 on page 27 — Is a Draft for a Waist-coat by the Divisional S3'stem fen* a form of good ]3roportions, measuring 36 breast, 32 waist, 27 shoulder, and Hi 23 blade. Diagram 8 on page 29 — Is a Draft for a Waist-coat by the Divisional System for a moderately stooping form, measuring 30 breast, 32 waist, 27 shoulder, and 12 23 blade. Diagram 9 on page 30 — Is a Draft for a ^Vaist-coat Ijy the Divisional System for a moderately erect form, mc^asuring 36 breast, 32 waist, 27 shouldi'r, and 11 23 blade. Diagram 10 on page 31 — Is a Draft for a Lady's Reeling Jaclvct by tiie Divi- sional System, for a form measuring 36 breast, 26 waist, 26 shoulder, and 11 22| blade. Diagram 11 on page 34 — Is a Draft for a Lady's Close-fitting Jacket by the Divi- sional System for a form measuring 36 breast, 26 waist, 26 shoulder, and 11 22^ blade. Diagram 12 on page 35— Is a Draft for Riding Habit by the Divisional System, for a form measuring 36 breast, 26 waist, 26 shoulder, and 11 22| blade. DiAGRAJi 13 on page 35 — Is a Draft for a Small Skirt belonging to the Riding Habit, and Drafted by thirds and fourths of the waist measure 26. Diagram 14 on page 41 — Is a Draft for a Body-coat by the new Plumb or Ex- act Measurement System, for a form of good proportions, measuring 36 breast and 32 waist. Diagram 15 on page 44— Is a Draft of a Body-sack by the new Plumb or Ex- act Measurement System for a form of good proportions, measuring 36 breast and 32 waist. Diagram 16 on page 46 — Is a Draft for an Over-sacik by tlie new Plumb or Ex- act Measurement System, for a form of good ])roportions, measuring 36 breast and 32 waist {ocer tlie waisicoat), and enlarged to 38 breast and 34 waist. Diagram 17 on page 48 — Is a Draft for Front of Trousers, drawn by 36 hip and 30 waist measure. Diagram 18 on yiage 60 — Is a complete LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 69 Draft for Trousers, drawn by 30 hip and 30 waist nieasiin\ Diagram 19 on page 51 — Is a full Draft of Trousers foi' a coi'pulent man, meas- uring 45 seat and 44 waist measure. Diagram 20 on page 53 — Is a complete Draft of Riding and Close-fitting Trousers, drawn by 3G hi]i and 30 waist measure. Diagram 21 oa i)age 54 — Is a Draft for a Frock Coat Skirt, adapted to either of the Systems in this work. Diagram 22 pn page 54 — Is a Draft for a Morning or Cut-away Skirt, adapted to either of the Sj'Stems in this work. Diagram 23 on page 55 — Is a Draft for three styles of Cut-away Coats. Double- breasted, single-breasted, and two-button Cut-away. Diagram 24 on page 5G — Is a Doulile- breasted Waist-coat, with lapel and collar cut separate. Diagram 25 on page 56— Is a Military or Clerical Waist-coat with standing collar. Diagram 26 on page 56 — Is a Full-dress Waist-coat with rolling collar. Diagram 27 on page 57— Is a Double- breasted Waist-coat with lajiel cut on. Diagram 28 on page 57— Is a Single- breasted Waist-coat with notched collar. Diagram 29 on page 57 — Is a Fancy Double-breasted Waist-coat. Diagram 30 on page 58 — Is a Draft for an Inverness or Cape Coat, formed fi-om an Over-sack pattern. Diagram 81 on page 59 — Shows how to Draft a Sleeve )iy the Divisional System, separate from the fore-j^art. See rcmarlcs in connection wltJi the Diagram. Diagram 32 on page 61 — Is a Draft for a Dress Coat Skirt, Lapel and Collar. Diagram 33 on page 62 — Is a Di-aft for a double-breasted Uniform Coat. Diagram 34 on page 62 — is a draft for a Single-breasted Uniform Coat. Diagram 35 on page 63 — Is a Draft for a Blouse or Undress Uniform. Diagram 36 on page 63 — Is a Draft for a Livery Driving Coat. Diagram 37 on page 64 — Is a Draft for a Single-breasted Livery Coat. Diagram 38 on page 65 — Is a Draft for a Lady's Ulster, by thirds and fourths of tile breast measure. Diagram 39 ou page 39 — Is a Draft for Skirt of Riding Habit. Diagram 40 on page 67 — Is a profile view of figure showing how the meas- ures are taken for the new Plumb or Exact Measurement System. Entered according to Act of Congress, In the year I3T6, by W. O. LixTnlcrsi. In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.