/ / / % % m. 'I 4, / / / / / ,/ / / / / / \ ;< % ^////.////////ym^m^m^^m^> 40 4T 42 42, 43 43 44 45' 46 46 CONTENTS. Mandrels, .......,.,, 47 Shingle Saws, .......... 48 Veneering Saws, .......... 49 Concave Saws, .......... 49 Cork Knives, .......... 50 Mitre Saws, ........... 50 Grooving Saws, . . . . . . . . . . 51 Gang Saws, . . . . . . . . . . , 51 Brazing Clamps and Directions for Joining, Hammering and Running Band Saws, ......... 52-54 Directions for Making Muriate of Zinc and Preparing Borax for Braz- ing Band Saws, . . . . . . . . . 53 Anvil, Hammers and Straight Edges for Regulating the Tension of Saws, 54 Swage Bar and Hammer, . . . . . . . . 55 Gauge for Regulating Cleaning-Teeth, 55 Great American Cross-Cut, Lumberman and Champion Saws, . . 56-58 Files, 59> 60 Testimonials, . . 61-67 INTRODUCTION. In 1840, when Henry Disston commenced the manufacture of saws, the lumber business, which has since assumed such vast proportions, was in its infancy. It had not been brought to the science it has since attained ; saws were not required to stand the tremendous speed and feed which is now demanded of them; hmiber was plenty, and the thickness- of the saw was not a serious question ; since then mills have been introduced that drive the saw at a tremendous speed and the feed has been increased proportionately, con- sequently, saws must be made to stand this increased demand upon them. Still, there is a limit to the strength of steel and saw, and while we do not claim that every saw we make is perfect, (as it is impossible to discover slight imperfections in the body of the steel plate, which in spite of all care will at times exist), we do claim that if saws of our make are treated as we suggest in this pamphlet, they will meet the requirements in almost every case. Owing to the great difficulty experienced by us in getting steel suitable for our wants, in 1855 we commenced the manufacture of saw steel, securing the services of men who had had long experience in manufacturing it. The reputation which our saws have gained and the frequent orders received, which specify that Disston' s steel must be used, is a guarantee that our steel is of superior quality, and we claim a great advantage in being able, from the fact that steel and saw works are connected, to readily detect any faults which may arise. One can see how important it is for us to use the greatest care in the steel works so that the saws will not be condemned after we have expended so much time and labor upon their making; therefore, the quality of steel used^ the perfect system of grinding, tempering, hammering and testing which we follow, with the great experience we have had in the business, has gained for our saws the reputation which they are justly entitled to. But notwithstanding all this care and attention on our part to produce a perfect saw, we are compelled at times to suffer from a want of experience on the part of the men engaged in the mill business, who persist in running a saw beyond the limit of endurance, and the improper methods used by some to keep their saws in order. We are always ready and willing to replace a saw faulty in either steel or manufacture, but we do not think that we should be expected to replace a saw which has been subjected to unfair usage. Mill-owners and sawyers will find it greatly to their advantage to keep this hand-book in a convenient place for reference, for it contains a great deal of useful and valuable information for them. HENR Y DISSTON dr- SONS' ' SUPERIOR. TO ALL OTHERS. Having had over forty-seven years'- experience in manufacturing saws, we feel justified in saying that our goods are superior to all others, from the fact that we have, by constantly experimenting at great cost, arrived at a state of perfection in machinery for manufacturing saws which can only be attained by years of constant application and watchfulness. Disstons' Saws are used wherever lumber is made, and are the criterion of excellence by wliich the merits of all others are judged. Parties ordering saws from us will save themselves much trouble by exer- cising care in making out their orders ; we furnish blanks to facilitate this, which can be had on application. HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. ^' oi5 ^.9. ■^^ 4^ A^ The above illustration represents our various styles and Nos. of saw teeth; also our standard gauge. By consulting it a person will be enabled to inform us the size and style of tooth, and also the gauge of any saw he may desire. STANDARD GAUGE. Gauge No. 4, . 1 inch scant. Gauge No. 9, . ■^j inch scant. <( (C 5. • i^ (C (< "lO, . i " full. n (( 6, . A (I full. <( "II, . 1 tt scant. ct t( 7, . A tt scant. ft "12, . 3 SONS' ^ \^ »- ■:?s ■S ^ ■Vj "^S ^ ^ ^ t-0 S "^ c^ ^ 1 -Si Q W H < Pi < Q < oi Pi o w O CO O H ID in > X ^ t pq CO o CO -S ri 'd <: Oh Pil o m O H u w ^ i •& ►3 0^ ^ •^ ^ OS C^ C^ f^ IJAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 11 < CO Q 2 < 1 H U. UJ < CO Q 2 < I I h I g > o 'o (/3 o O " fci) '55 Vh ^ "S) OJ tu o >> r^ s 1 -M tAl 'o 'a, o nd <*- o bp Q. c3 T3 "^ X X X) 2 X a) 5 '^ ION 'Td d) ' ' P Ifl p c i2 o o -G u in !E Jj CJ in o "o 3 O OJ ^ CJ Si CO On o O OS CO c G (U ■4— > v< f^ ^ > (U rG +J pin QJ o o rt (U .G 0) o OJ J-H "^ c^ 'o L. be in ^ •~^ ^ bo bO OJ OJ > o be ^ en f— ' c c O oj rt uo~ S-H cu S-i (U i bO Td OJ ^ rt ^ o OJ C ,'^ m s P- C o c IS 3 ^H ^H ►— o O in o OJ >N ^ o 6 a C/3 OJ bn .H o & rt _c IS T^ ^ ■g oj C/2 ^ 'si tl rt t/2 Q > CJ 1— 1 "O Hi nd 'o P-. _o rG o c c • 'N ■& O c 0) c ^ {3 P cu o o ■4-> OJ 1^ < 1 (U a 03 o 5?s?^;^S5!!^^^^?^«SS?5:555^^;^55555:55«!;s^^>c^^ This file is made expressly for keeping the chisel points in the same per- fect shape as they leave the factory; by its use the filing' of sharp corners is prevented, from which points are liable to break off. See opposite page. 22 HENRY DISSTON &- SONS' No. 2 OREGON CHISEL POINT. Cut full size of tooth. No. 3 CHISEL POINT. Cut full size of tooth. HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 23 No. 4 CHISEL POINT. Cut full size of tooth. No. 10 TOOTH. We call particular attention to the flanged tooth, by the use of which there is a great saving in power and prevention against the heating and springing of saws. The flanges are so made in the saw plate and teeth as to cover the points of the teeth. The saw-dust formed by the cutting of the log is forced below the points of the teeth by the motion of the saw, and, without the flange, would pass the tooth and wedge between the sides of the saw and timber thus heating the saw and causing unnecessary wear on the saw plate, requiring 24 HENR Y DISSTON dr- SONS' additional power, to overcome the friction and loss of time in waiting for tlie saw to cool. From the above, the advantages of the flanged tooth are obvious. Our saws are made with the greatest care by experienced workmen with improved machinery, and we use none but the best material in their manu- facture. They are evenly tempered and ground by our patented process, which makes them perfectly true, dispenses with the liability of lumps or unevenness in the saw plate, Avhether of the same thickness throughout or beveled from eye to rim, and saves power, lumber and time. All saws bearing the brand Henry Disston & Sons, are fully warranted. RE-SAWS. The difficulty occasioned by wearing down or reducing in diameter of shingle, veneer, segment, heading and re-saws, has created a more general demand for an inserted tooth saw of this class, and to supply this want, we are now making quite a large proportion of our segment, heading, shingle and re-saws with the improved re-saw inserted tooth, of which the above cut is a representation. The advantages claimed for this style of saw are numerous, the most important of which is that the original diameter of the saw is retained. This point will readily be seen by all practical operators and sawyers ; for the saw must be the proper diameter and thickness at rim and centre to give the best results, for if the diameter is decreased, the periphery or cutting edge is brought closer to the heavy centre or flange of saw, not only cutting out a heavier kerf, but bringing an undue strain upon both saw and machine and causing the pieces being sawed to take a short, sharp spring-off, and in sawing short stuff where flanged saws are used, the flange or collar, by its close proximity to cutting edge of saw, splits a portion of piece from the bolt HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 25 instead of sawing it, giving very unsatisfactory results both as to quality and quantity of work done. Therefore, if your saw is right at the startp by retain- ing original thickness and size, these difficulties are entirely obviated, and to do this, inserted tooth saws must be used, or the solid tooth must be frequently replaced. This saw can be made in gauges from 14 to 17 at the rim. By replacing the teeth when worn out, practically you have a new saw at a trifling expense. We give the same warranty on these saws as on any other goods with our brand on. They are no experiment, having been used for a number of years with satisfaction and economy. We have made such improvements in our manufacturing facilities and brought this tooth to such a state of perfection that, all things considered, they are the best, as well as the most economical saws used in the class of work for which they are intended. KEEPING AND FITTING SAWS, Etc. See that your saw slips up freely to fast collar and hangs straight and plumb when tightened up, that your mandrel is level, in proper line with your carriage, and that it fits in its boxes as neatly as possible without heating, for when the mandrel heats, by transmission, the saw will heat also and thus expand in the centre, which will make it work badly, injure, and perhaps ruin it. We do not warrant a saw to run on a mandrel that heats, although if we knew to what degree of heat you get your mandrel, we could make a saw that would admit of that much expansion, but a heating will ahuays give more or less trouble. To get the best results from a mill, this heating must be overcome. See article on mandrels for circular saws. Take up all end play or lateral motion in mandrel, as the grain of the wood will draw or push the mandrel endwise, no matter how well the saw is kept. See that the carriage track is level, straight, solid, and in proper line, also that rolls or trucks have no end play. Keep all gum or saw-dust off the tracks. Keep the saws sharp, round, and swaged or set enough for clearance ; when everything is in proper shape -^^ of an inch equally divided is sufficient swage or set. Keep extreme point of tooth the wddest. Do all the filing on the under or front side of tooth, filing square across the teeth, but never file square corners in saws of any kind, as this renders them liable to break. When you have occasion to swage or upset the teeth of your saw, file them all to a sharp point first; this will not only save time but save the saw, for the sharper the teeth the more easily will they upset or swage. Endeavor to keep the teeth in the shape they were when new, for if they lose any of the hook or rake or saw-dust chamber, it will not only consume more power but be harder to keep in order, as Avell as make inferior lumber. Keep your saw well balanced and your saw chambers well gummed out. By following instructions given with our No. i Gummer you will save your saw, time and files, and get much better results generally. 26 HENR Y DISS TON &- SONS'' SHARPENING AND GUMMING WITH EMERY WHEELS. Great care must be taken in sharpening or gumming saws with emery wheels. Always use a good, free-cutting wheel, and never put so much pressure on it nor crowd it so fast that you heat and blue the teeth, for when teeth are blued, glazed, or case hardened by the emery wheel, they are apt to break or crumble when in the cut or the next time they are swaged. When gumming it is best to go around the saw several times instead of finishing each tooth at one operation, for by going over the teeth several times, they are less liable to case-harden or blue, and gives a more uniform gullet. After gumming, it is advisable to file all around the saw, taking care to remove the fash or burr left on the edges and all the glazed or hard spots, as cracks will start from the little cuts made by the emery wheel which are not discernable at first, but by the use of the saw become deeper, and finally the teeth break out or the cracks extend into the body of the plate and the saw is ruined. Gumming and sharpening with the emery wheel will cause your saw to " let down " or lose its tension much quicker than by the use of the file or burr-gummer, as it heats and expands the rim of saw, putting it in the shape that is generally termed by mill-men "rim bound," which makes it appear loose and limber and causes it to run snakey in the cut. Many saws are condemned just from this cause and thrown aside as worn out, when by the proper work and hammering they can be made as good as new saws of the same size. i In sending us old saws for repairs, mark plainly on the case whom they are from, and write us full instructions as to what you wish done, and we will guarantee to put as good and durable tension in them as they had originally. We make and repair saws as well as alter from solid to inserted tooth. PRICE-LIST OF KEYSTONE SOLID CORUNDUM AND EMERY WHEELS. MS 4800 THICKNESS OF WHEELS, IN INCHES. V^ ¥2 % 1 1^/ 1^ 1^ 2 2'X 2^ 2% 3 3J^ 4 3 80 85 1 00 1 10 1 25 1 35 1 50 1 60 1 75 1 90 2 00 2 10 2 60 3 00 4 3600 95 1 10 1 40 1 65 1 95 2 20 2 50 2 75 3 00 3 30 3 60 3 85 4 60 5 00 5 3000 1 20 1 40 1 80 2 20 2 60 3 00 3 45 3 80 4 20 4 65 5 00 5 40 6 40 7 40 fi 2400 1 45 1 75 2 50 3 05 3 70 4 35 5 00 5 65 6 30 6 95 7 60 8 25 9 55 11 00 7 2100 2 30 3 15 3 95 5 00 5 60 6 40 7 25 8 10 8 90 9 75 10 55 12 20 13 85 8 1800 2 60 3 60 4 50 5 70 6 40 7 fiO 8 30 9 60 10 20 11 60 12 10 14 00 16 00 9 1600 3 16 4 40 5 60 6 80 8 05 9 30 10 50- 11 70 12 95 14 20 15 40 19 00 21 75 10 1500 3 70 5 15 6 60 8 10 9 50 11 00 12 40 14 25 15 35 17 25 18 20 21 10 24 00 1?, 1200 4 on 6 00 7 40 9 00 10 70 12 75 14 00 15 70 17 40 19 00 20 75 24 25 27 50 14 1050 6 20 8 70 10 70 13 20,15 20 17 80 19.70 21 95 24 20 26 45 28 70 33 00 37 00 Ifi ' 900 11 00 13 70 16 90|19 40 22 25 25 00 27 95 30 80 33 65 36 50 43 00 48 75 18 825 13 75 17 00 21 75|24 50 28 75 32 00 35 75 39 50 43 25 47 00 54 50 62 00 ^0 750 20 00 25 00 29 00 35 50 33 00 42 50 47 00 51 50 56 00 66 00 75 00 ?■?, 675 29 90 35 50 41 12 46 75 52 00 58 00 63 50 69 25 80 50 91 75 24 600 43 00 50 00 57 00 64 00 71 00 78 00 85 00 99 00 113 00 .SO 500 91 00 102 00 114 00 125 00 136 00 159 00 185 00 36 400 1 127 00 157 00 188 00 219 00 250 00 HAND- B O OK FOR L UMBERMEN. 27 THIN AND EXTRA THIN LARGE SAWS. As we have said in the preceding pages, all saws and saw-mill machinery- must be kept in the proper shape to obtain the best results; this is especially necessary in running thin saws, for while a thick or standard gauge saw will give very fair results where only medium skill in the management of saw and mill is used, a thin saw would fall far short of giving fair results under the same methods and management, for from reasons given below, a thin saw requires more skill and better appliances to give same results than a thicker one. First, being lighter and thinner, it necessarily follows that they cannot reasonably be expected to stand as much crowding as a thicker saw. Second, it is always necessary to have enough set in a saw to give good clearance, which means enough to prevent the log from rubbing on the body of saw. In the ordinary gauges of-larger circular saws, say 7, Sand 9, used in the ■ordinary manner on the average feed and ordinary lumber, ^^ of an inch equally divided is about as little set as should be run except in hard woods and frozen timber, then less may be used. A thin saw requires just as much clearance as any other saw, consequently, in proportion to the thickness, the thin saw has the most strain to bear, hence, from these reasons alone the best ;skill and mill are required. We do not wish to convey the idea that we do not make and warrant thin saws, but simply wish our customers who con- template putting in extra thin saws to take a plain logical view of the facts .and figures relative to thick and thin saws. The difference in thickness "between 8 gauge and 10 gauge is-^^jofan inch; the set for clearance of eacK being the same, -^-^ is all it is possible to save in kerf, and between an 8 gauge and 11 gauge the difference is -^-^ of an inch full, hence the saving in the instances above is very small — so small, in fact, that in nine cases out of ten it is offset by reduction in capacity or in poorly manufactured lumber. As to saving in power, the difference in nineteen cases out of twenty is not in favor of the thinner saw, for, being so much lighter, it will deviate from its line much easier, and any deviation, even so slight as to be imper- ceptible in the length of the cut, will consume by friction all the power you :save in difference of kerf. These are plain facts which any man who knows the gauges can figure out for himself, and we advise every mill man to study the subject well before ■ordering extra thin saws. If his mill, skill of employes, and value of timber is such as to justify extra thin saws, then have them by all means, and we ■claim that our saws in workmanship, toughness, elasticity, and standing-up ■quality of steel are unequaled, whether thick, thin, or extra thin. In ordering, please note that thin saws require more teeth than heavier ones to do the same sawing, as this equalizes the strain on the rim as well as prevents springing of the teeth. 28 HENR Y DISS TON &• SONS' Regularity of speed is desirable with all saws, but particularly so with thin ones, as they depend more than any other upon the-velocity to hold them up to their work. In extra thin saws, one-sixth more speed than given in the table will be advantageous. See suggestions on keeping and fitting saws. HINTS FOR COLD WEATHER. Take the frost out of the saw with hot water before setting the teeth or putting the saw in motion, as steel is always brittle and easily broken whea frosted. As many saws are broken in winter, owing to the great, risk in saw- ing frozen timber, the greatest care should be taken not to put any undue strain on the metal by running a dull saw. Keep the points out full and square and do not allow them to become rounded, as the saw will dodge out of the cut, more particularly in slabbing, as the points next to the log do the most cutting and soon get dull in sawing knotty frozen timber. Use nO' more set than is absolutely necessary ; have the teeth widest at the extreme points, but do not have them weak ; taper the set nicely from point to back. Sharp corners should never be filed in the gullets as cracks are sure to start, from such misuse of the saw, particularly in cold weather. •PITCH OF TEETH FOR HARD AND SOFT WOODS. No. f. No. 2. Cut No. I shows proper shape of tooth for cross-cutting soft wood. No. 2 shows tooth best adapted to cutting hard wood. Cut HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 2» TRAMMEL FOR CIRCULAR SAW TEETH. The above cut represents a device for laying out and keeping in order the teeth of circular saws. By its use the teeth can be kept in proper shape, regular in depth, and an equal amount of pitch given to the front of each tooth. To rod A is attached chuck B, which holds a steel point for marking a circle for the bottom of the teeth. If all of the teeth are on this circle, they will be equal in depth. The strip of steel (C) can be set at any distance between the centre and the edge of the saw, and it will give the same pitch to the front of each tooth. The ordinary pitch is that which is obtained by placing the steel strip at a distance of three-fifths from the centre towards the edge of the saw-plate. There is a diversity of opinion concerning the proper pitch to be given to the fronts of teeth ; knotty timber requires less than clear timber ; with light power and light feed more can be used. The pitch can be increased by moving the steel strip nearer to the edge of the saw, but should the teeth become weakened, the backs or tops of the teethl should be strengthened, or they will either break or chatter in the work. Price^ ^2.50, net. 30 HENR Y DISSTON &' SONS' PATENT GULLET-TOOTH CIRCULAR SAW. One of the most Valuable and Useful Improvements of the Agre. G By reference to the above engraving, it will be observed that the back or point-line of each tooth is the continuation of the spiral lines Z, and the sharpening is mainly done by the reduction of the gullet or throat only. This is readily accomplished by the use of our patent gummers. (See pages 35 to 37.) The course pursued by this cutter is spiral, and while it is in the act of reducing the front or throat of tooth D, it is prolonging the back or point - line of tooth C. The engraving represents a two-inch tooth or gullet. The saw B is the saw A worn down. When the saw has been reduced on centre line from G to F, it has been worn away but six inches, yet has presented a cutting surface on spiral line Z from G to Y, a. distance of twenty-four inches. But this is only one of the advantages claimed for our patent gullet-tooth. The throat or gullet being chambered out on a half circle, forms a larger receptacle or chamber for dust, and thus a one-and-a-half-inch tooth of this pattern will keep a saw as free from choking as a two-inch tooth of the ordinary shape. HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 31 The saving of the saw-plate by the use of a smaller tooth is evident to the most casual observer. In wearing a fifty-four-inch saw down to a forty-two, a loss of twelve inches has been sustained in the diameter of the saw-plate, which is six sets of two-inch teeth, or eight sets of one-and-a-half-inch teeth, an advantage of two sets in favor of our new patent gullet-tooth, independent of the immense gain by gumming on spiral lines. The chambering machines (represented on subsequent pages) are furnished with different sized cutters, and with them you work out your gullet or chamber for whatever sized tooth you may require ; but the deeper your tooth the quicker your saw wears out. If you can do your work with a tooth one and one-fourth inches deep, your saw will last more than twice the time that it would if your tooth was three inches deep. We find that some mills sawing hard and soft woods carry only about one-inch feed. In this case a very shallow tooth is required. A shallow tooth will cut the smoothest lumber ; but, if you carry five-inch feed, as they do in some sections, you want a deeper chamber or more teeth certain, and the saw must wear down that much faster. What we wish to do is to give a tooth, where we can, to suit the feed and kind of work, for hard wood requires a different tooth from soft, in more ways than one. A great saving in your saw-plate, time and files is effected by taking a good, deep, full cut, instead of a light, scraping one. As stated in a previous article, a tooth becomes dull on its face in proportion to the depth of cut taken at each revolution of the saw ; for instance, with a thirty-second of an inch feed, it takes thirty-two teeth to cut one inch of lumber, whereas with one-eighth feed it takes only eight teeth to cut the same amount. In other words, the fibre or grain of the lumber has to be broken thirty-two times in one instance, and only eight times in the other ; and when your tooth starts to break the fibre one-eighth of an inch in your log, it will do it with nearly as much ease and consume very little more ' ^"'■'''' power than if the cut was a thirty-second of an inch. Of course one tooth, in this example, becomes dull for one-eighth of an inch under the point, and the other only one thirty-second of an inch, but it consumes as much saw-plate, time and files to bring up one tooth as the other ; it is, however, easy to overdo the thing ; there ~ "'^'^^'^^^^/te • is reason in this as well as in anything 1 r\ i .-u -I?- J <.4. J T r> Filing back on the Periphery else. On tooth, Fig. 4, dotted hne B Line. shows where the point first wears; dotted line C C C shows how it should be filed back on the periphery line ; but, too frequently, on account of the long surface to be filed, and the sharp cor- ner in the gullet made as at /(which causes the teeth very frequently to break. 32 HENR Y DISS TON &- SONS' FIC.5^ as shown at line K), they go to the top of the tooth, as represented by the dotted Hne V. You will see that by filing back on the dotted line C C C you have only diminished your saw from dotted line ^ to i^, while by filing from the top you have diminished your saw, as shown by dotted lines, from E to D. This shows that by filing on top you have wasted five times as much of your saw as by a proper filing. This, added to both sides of centre, shows you have actually diminished your saw ten times as much as you would have by proper filing. This difficulty is overcome by the in- troduction of our new tooth, as repre- sented by cut. Fig. 5. You will see in Fig. 5 (same shape tooth as Fig. 4) by using the Gumming Machine (page 37), you have but a small surface left to file, which gives no excuse for filing on top of tooth. Showing Old and New^ Style Tooth. Engraving of Tooth after cutting 300,000 feet of Lumber. The above cut represents a section of our gullet- tooth saw (kept in order by Chambering Machine) after cutting 300,000 feet of hemlock lumber. Dotted line D and point A show the original diameter of the saw ; dotted line E and point C show the saw after cutting the above amount of lumber, only reducing the diameter of saw about three -sixteenths of an inch, as can be plainly seen between dotted lines I? and E. According to this, a fifty- inch saw will cut 9,600,000 feet, and only reduce the diameter of saw to HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 33 forty-eight inches. You will thus perceive the great advantage derived by- using our Patent Tooth and Gummer. F/C.6- -. The accompanying cut is a fac-simile of the condition of the teeth of a large circular saw sent to our, factory to be ground. The parties had been using some gummer upon the saw, which "actually did more harm than good ; the reason we will explain : the line B shows where the cutter had been at work ; but, being entirely too small, not even reach- ing the bottom of tooth, as it it origi- nally was (leaving a ragged throat), and having so much depth to file at the top tliat the filer stopped before he reached the chamber, the consequence was, after a few filings there was a lump left in face of tooth, which so obstructed the circulation of saw-dust that the parties were compelled to send it to the factory to be gummed out. Dotted line C shows the condition the tooth "would have been in had our chambering machines been. used upon it. Figs. 7 and 8 show, by periphery lines, the difference in the wear of the saw. We will here remark that it is of the greatest importance to file back on these periphery lines. You will see by this tooth the point on the face is very small. Well, the smaller it is the less filing it takes to keep it sharp. One stroke of the file on this point will effect more than ten strokes on the face of a tooth that you have to keep back from point to bottom of gullet ; and when you have so little point to keep back, you will find it Bad Chambering. ((Reduced to one half natural size.) no.i. Teeth for Soft Wood. easier to sharpen the saw from the face than to file from the top, and thereby you retain the diameter of your saw to a very great extent, as shown in Fig. 4, page 31 ; so much so, that you will not wear out one- third the saw-blade in one year that you do by the old process and old tooth. If you could let us know what kind of lumber, and the speed and feed used, we could then give you the tooth you want, and, in many instances, save you waste of saw and the extra time it would require to 34 HENR V DISSTON &- SONS' keep a large tooth in order. For instance, for one-inch feed, we should- not (where you use our gummer) give over one and a quarter depth ; for a five-inch feed, not less than forty teeth, and depth to correspond; for a. three-inch feed, we should give thirty-two teeth, and depth to correspond. m.B. Teeth for Hard Wood. The chambering machine ought to be put upon your saw every time that, the file strikes the back of the chamber, as shown in Fig. 9, Tooth A. When your Tooth wants Chambering. Tooth B has just been chambered, A wants chambering. By filing your saw back on this small point line, you wear your saw back on the peri- phery instead of (as is too much the case) on the centre line. Observe, if you file on the top of the saw, you go down towards the centre so much faster than when you keep back on the periphery line. Fig. C. The above cut shows the No. 14 or gullet tooth saw in action, and the manner in which the dust is "pocketed " and carried out. HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 33 No. 2 PATENT SINGLE-GEARED GUMMER or CHAMBERING MACHINE FOR CIRCULAR SAWS, 38 INCHES OR SMALLER. Adapted for either Circular or Long Saws. Cutter- Grinder and one Cutter each, ^, |^, and 3^ inch with each machine. Seven-eighths inch Cutter is the largest that can be used on this Gummer. PRICE, $15.00. Figs. A and B represent obverse views of the same machine, adapted for gumming either circular or straight saws. Fig. A sliows gummer in position on a circular saw. Put the gummer in proper position by means of screws A (Fig. B) ; run the screw If ds far back as necessary; set the jam-nuts L to correspond with the desired depth of gullet. Gauge F must now be placed so as to strike the point of the tooth in front of it. Then proceed with the gumming until the jam-nuts Z strike frame K. Remove gummer to next tooth, and repeat the operation until all the teeth are gummed. The jam-nuts must not be moved until the whole operation is completed. 36 HENR Y DISSTON &- SONS' ^Oc 2 PATENT SINGLE-GEARED GUMMER or CHAMBERING MACHINE. PRICE. $15.00. Fig. B shows the, obverse side of Fig. A, with gummer in position on a Straight saw. Place the cutter B in gullet of the tooth to be gummed. Secure the gummer in position by means of screws A ; run the cutter back as far as necessary by means of screw H; set the jam-nuts L to correspond with the desired depth of gullet, and proceed to gum the first tooth, feeding with screw ZT until jam- nuts strike frame ^ (Fig- A) When this tooth is suffi- ciently gummed, remove the machine to the next tooth, and proceed as before until the work is finished. This machine has recently been much improved, an extra gauge D having been attached to the opposite side of the gummer, the two gauges D being used for the purpose spt-cified. The cutter has also been furnished with a bearing on each side, which greatly adds to its strength and effectiveness. GUMMER CUTTERS. 2 \i inch. $0.40 y& inch.. .50 IJ-i inch. 1^ inch. .80 .90 ly^ inch. 1.05 IJ^ inch. l.CO each. The I inch to i^ inch cutters are for the No. i Gummer, and the ^ to ^ inch for the No. 2 Gummer. HAND-BOOK FOR L UMBERMEN. 37 No. 1 PATENT DOUBLE-GEARED SAW GUMMER, OR CHAMBERING MACHINE FOR CIRCULAR SAWS, 40 INCHES AND LARGER Cutter-Holder and One Cutter each, i, 1 3^, \y^ inch with each machine. PRICE, $20.00. DIRECTIONS FOR USING. Before using the gummer see that the oil holes are clear. A few drops of oil will be sufficient for from three to five hours' use. After using the gummer remove the chips or turnings that accumulate back of the cutter. If allowed to remain they will cause trouble by getting into the working parts of the machine. Run the cutter back by means of screw G as far as necessary. Then place the machine on the saw, with the cutter close up in the chamber of the tooth to be gummed. If the teeth are regular and the same distance apart, start the cutter in any chamber ; but if they are irregular, make them even by commencing in the smallest tooth. After gumming the saw a few times the teeth must become regular. .iS" is a set screw to regulate the depth of gullet. Fasten the machine to the saw by means of the screws BB, and proceed to gum the first tooth, one of the points of the star being struck at each revolution by a projection on the handle. The cutter is steadily fed in until arrested by set screw E. Remove the machine to the next tooth towards you, after having run the cutter back, and proceed as before until the operation is complete. Should the gullet or chamber be worn smooth, and the cuttei- fail to bite, rough the gullet with a file. The cutter is so arranged as to slide on its axis, and when one portion becomes dull, by removing a washer from back to front, a new sharp-cutting surface will be presented, so continuing to change the washers until the whole face of the cutter becomes dull. 38 HENR V DISSTON &- SOjVS' To take the cutter off the shaft, put the pin, hanging to the gummer, in the hole in the ratchet wheel H, to keep the shaft from turning while un- screwing the nut, which has a left-hand thread. The hand wheel on end of feed screw, outside of the star, is to allow the operator to feed easily and gently with the hand when starting in to cut rough gullets, until the cutter gets abearing, when by tightening the jam-nut on opposite side of star, the machine is made self-feeding. The ratchet by which the cutter is moved, effectually prevents any back motion, which has hitherto been a serious objection. This gummer is a most invaluable machine, and should be in the hands of every mill-man. It saves power, files and time, and is so simple in its mode of operation that any one of ordinary intelligence can be taught to use it. We pronounce this the best gummer ever manufactured. Device for Holding the Cutter of Chambering Machine in Position during: the process of Sharpening. A is the main frame ; Z>, the rollers ; B, the adjustable frame ; 3, the cutter ; C, the cutter shaft ; £ F, the screw for regulating the adjustable frame B ; G, the screw for tightening spring H, which holds the cutter 3 in proper position while grinding ; 6" is the grindstone. The stone should have a perfectly straight fa'ce and run through in the direction of the arrow. In using this machine care should be taken to hold it in line with stone. Screw the adjustable frame (which can be adjusted to any pitch) down till the cutter touches the stone ; then see ifthe cutter is in its proper position ; if not, it can be adjusted by spring H, by moving the spring either backward or forward. HAN'D-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 39 T3 "r^ o; r- =r t - CO 5 -2-5 5 OJ c5 0.9 rt'B'":^ c- ^ 3 > iJ ^ fcjD-^ ^ -i. > rt _C C 03 C > fciD -H ^^ -X^ ^ 5 ^ bJ3 ■TO r^ .Z. (1 ) p I -^ -^ o tn H '^ ^^O S Sri rH != i2 -^ ^ ^^ H c J -^ t/^ cfi C3 ^ „< <^ rt (yi ^ ^ § ^ ^ S^f§ - o (L) rt Ci. OJ „ „ _ y a5 M-J;^ _, ?- C - oj JJ OJ OJ rt '+J ^ - "^ "^ Td rt 3 ti) (u P ^^ o +^ % ^' n-l 03 n Td rt rt >^ en >H 03 n flj o ^ O bX) M P 4-3 oi o •'"' bO is in rj 3 ^ O en o ,_7~ tn '3 e/2 X !-i tn O h en U ^ rQ ^ ^ OJ o ,^ €N ) rO /'ii; 03 -)-» o3 en > '5b o o Td HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 47 CIRCULAR SAW MANDREL, Of the Latest and Most Approved Style. PULLEY IN CENTRE, ■V £M/i^ m A mandrel should not be too light for the work to be done or it will spring, causing it to heat. See that the bearings are well proportioned and fitted. All bearings should be at least three times as long as diameter of mandrel: longer would be no detriment. The boxes should fit neatly enough to prevent lost motion, but not so tightly on the quarters as to cut off the supply of oil. One of the main causes of mandrels heating is want of proper lubri- cation. The cutting of channels from the front side of bottom half of boxes running down and under shaft to point of hardest bearing Avill be a great benefit in all cases ; then use a good heavy body oil or lubricant. In some mills Avhere three bearings are used on the mandrel, heating is caused by getting bearings out of line when shifting for lead or adjustment. Again, some mills are built with the collars for preventing end motion on the box nearest the saw ; they should be on the other end, as the bearing nearest the saw has the most strain on it in addition to this at all times. Heating is often caused by having a too short and tight brlt ; where you have trouble with a heating journal and slipping belt, it would be advisable, as well as economy, to increase the diameter of the receiving pulley on mandrel, even at the sacrifice of some of your speed. Belts should be of good length, and in all cases should have the strain on the lower side and slack on the top ; then when practicable, put a balanced tightener or stress pulley on the top, rigging it so that it Avill give as much lap of belt on the pulley as possible ; this, with the balanced tightener, will take much strain off the mandrel, rendering it less liable to heat. A saw running badly from other causes, by undue crowding and straining will frequently cause a mandrel to heat that would otherwise run cool. See suggestions on keeping saw and mill in order. We carry in stock mandrels with pulley on either end or in centre. r HENR Y DISSTON &= SONS ' SHINGLE SAWS. ^^^^^^^^^^^^IN^,^ O .3 o Left-Hand. Right- Hand When ordering Shingle Saws, give the following directions plainly : diameter in inches ; thick- ness or gauge at centre ; thickness or gauge at rim ; full sketch or pattern of holes, and sample of screw by which to drill and countersink. If you have a flange, send it to have holes drilled in saw to fit it. If you wish us to furnish the flange, send full and correct sketch of diameter, thick- ness, holes, etc. State whose make of machine the saw is to rim upon, number of teeth, and be sure to give flat or countersunk side and the direc- tion in which the teeth run (see engraving above). Fig. 2. Particular attention is also called to the importance of using screws that are suitable for the thickness of the saw; we frequently receive screws as samples by which to drill and countersink, that have heads entirely too large, and which require ths flange to be countersunk, (as shown in Fig. i), thereby reducing the length of the thread and making it impossible to bind the saw firmly to it. Fig. 2 shows the correct size the screw-heads should be, thus getting a good bearing for the screw-heads on countersink in saw and full thickness of flange for thread. In no case should screw-heads be deeper than thickness of saw. HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 49 VENEERING SAWS IN SEGMENTS. Left-Hand. Right-Hand. When ordering segments, give gauge or thickness at butt and at edge, depth of bevel, diameter of saw that segments are to form, number of segments, depth of segments, number of teeth in each segment, sample of screw by which to drill and countersink, flat or countersunk side, and direction in which teeth run (see engraving). In ordering for a flange that has been drilled, send a sheet iron or tin templet, or a correct tracing showing holes and other particulars ; or one of the old segments, giving the depth they originally were. CONCAVE SAWS. Left-Hand. Right-Hand. The attention of the manufacturers of chair or wheelwright lumber, barrels, etc., is respectfully called to concave saws, of which we are manu- facturing large numbers. They are dished and tempered by an entirely new and patented process, and guaranteed to be of superior quality in every respect. We furnish these saws considerably cheaper in consequence of our new mode of manufacture. 50 HENR Y DISSTON &■ SONS' To keep concave saws in order, set both sides of the teeth alike ; file the front of teeth square and bevel the back of each a trifle. Keep the same amount of rake on the fronts of all the teeth ; do not run a dull saw, and keep the gullets round. If an emery wheel is used, be careful not to case-harden the saw. Smooth the teeth and gullets with a file after gumming. CORK KNIVES. Our stock for cork knives is made espec- ially for the purpose and is the finest quality of edge-tool steel. This with our new pro- cess of tempering and grinding and the high- est class of workmanship, enables us to turn I, out knives which for general superiority stand unequaled. In ordering these knives give diameter, gauge, size of hole, whether to be beveled on both sides or only on one, and how deep bevel is to run. If knife is a large one and screws to plate or flange, send flange to us or an accurate tracing of holes, stating whether one or both sides are to be beveled, if only one side, state whether screw holes are to be countersunk on flat or beveled side. Circular and straight knives for cutting rubber, cork, etc., made to order. Cork Cutter, MITRE SAWS. The above cut is a section of circular mitre saw and shows the manner in which they are ground, style of tooth, and how they should be filed. This saw is designed especially for cutting mitres and general small box work where clean, smooth and tight joints are necessary. It answers the purpose admirably, cuts as smooth as a planer, does true and rapid work, and is becoming more popular daily. This saw being ground thin- ner at centre, no set is required. In order- ing saws of this kind, give size of mandrel- hole and collars of mandrel the saw is to be HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 51 GROOVING SAWS. 7 -^ ^ These useful little tools are too well-known to require special mention. They are ground thinner at centre than at rim, so that little or no set is required or just sufficient to keep the extreme points of teeth perceptibly wider than body of tooth. We make them any gauge at edge or centre as may be wanted. In ordering grooving saws, state whether wanted straight or hollow ground, and if the latter, give size of collar. GANG SAWS. • C?'. ST STEEL. ^/VvftBRANTEp >^^ii|-|rjriF]^^ Our gang saws are made from steel which exactly suits their purpose, and they are evenly tempered and ground by our patented processes. We guar- antee them to run more freely than those of any other make. In support of this assertion we cite the following instance : Some time ago we visited a large gang-mill in this State which was run by two engines, each of one-hundred-and-fifty-horse power. The engines were flagging and the owners were considering the propriety of putting in more power. We induced them to try one gang of saws of our make, and the result was so convincing they immediately ordered three thousand dollars' worth of ours and abandoned the use of all others. They have since informed us that the change increased the capacity of their mill 33,000 feet per day, with power to spare. This saving of power was effected by furnishing them with saws made perfectly true and properly ground, thus overcoming all un- necessary friction. When filing gang, mill and mulay saws, care should be taken to have sufficient pitch to teeth to prevent " kicking back " and not too much to cause " chattering." The most desirable set to use is the square or swage set, and gullets should be round. The reversed teeth in cut above represented will make a cleaner cut on the lov/er edge of the boards, preventing the tear ng or sprawling of the timber by the down cut. 52 HENR V D IS ST ON dx' SONS' BRAZING CLAMP. DIRECTIONS FOR JOINING OR BRAZING BAND SAWS. The parts to be joined must be beveled on opposite sides to a width of three-quarters of an inch to a nice fit ; the ends of bevels should be per- fectly square and taper of bevel uniform throughout. Place the ends of saw on table with the back of blade against straight edge B, have the centre of lap over centre of irons E and D, then clamp securely by setting down screws C C C C. Clean the beveled parts with dilute muriatic acid ; cover with a thin borax paste ; cut a strip of silver solder same size as lap, clean this in the same manner as the parts to be joined, and place it between lap. Have iron D centrally adjusted ; heat the irons E E \.Qd. bright red in a moderate fire, using charcoal, coke or hard coal. When the irons are at the proper heat, scrape all the scale from the sides to be applied to the saw ; place them as shown in cut, centrally over and under the lap ; place iron E on iron E and clamp firmly with screw G, after which, to allow expansion, slack up the screws C C C C ; leave the saw in this position until cool enough to set the solder, tightening up occasionally on screw G as the irons contract by cooling, and when cool enough to handle, the joint can be cleaned, straightened and dressed to thickness of balance of blade. HAMMERING BAND SAWS. In hammering band saws they must be perfectly straight on the edges and open uniformly throughout the width of blade, dropping about one-six- teenth of an inch at the centre and tapering up to nothing to within one-half of an inch at both edges. A good saw, hammered in this manner and used on a good machine, will run well and give good results generally. Many saws are made that are unevenly tempered and hammered, which leaves long and short places in the edges or not of an even tension, and when subjected to strain are twisted and distorted, and finally break at the badly tempered places. RUNNING BAND SAWS. When running band saws, keep the correct pitch upon the front of the teeth so as to give a proper lead into the cut, which will prevent the saw from being pressed too heavily against the back guide^ a continued heavy pressure against which will flange and crystallize the steel, from which cracks are sure to start. Band saws should be kept well sharpened, as many are broken from being run with dull teeth. Keep the gullets round. Select files with round edges for filing them. The saw must be uniform in width throughout, so that every tooth will perform its part of the work, for it can be readily seen how easy it would be to break the saw if the points of some of the teeth would project any considerable distance beyond the others. WHY BAND SAWS BREAK. In explaining the methods of adjusting and keeping band saws in order, we have shown many of the reasons why they break, but we give the follow- ing additional causes : Machines which have wheels entirely too small for the saw ; starting or stopping the machine too suddenly ; dirt clogging on the face of the wheels, making an uneven surface; any hard substance falling between the saw and the wheel; contraction of saw, pulling it apart, par- ticularly in cold weather; the strain should betaken off when the machine is stopped. Saws, after gumming, should be filed, as they are very apt to break from the ragged edge put on by the gumming tool. When we consider the number of times these saws run over the wheels and the strain put on them, it is only fair to ask of the user that they be kept in order as instructed in the preceding paragraphs. DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING MURIATE OF ZINC. Feed into muriatic acid small pieces of zinc until the mixture ceases to boil, after which dilute with an equal portion of rain or distilled water. DIRECTIONS FOR PREPARING BORAX FOR BRAZING. Roast the borax until all the moisture is driven off; pulverize and mix with distilled water to a thin paste. 54 HENR Y DISSTON &- SONS' DIRECTIONS FOR JOINING SMALL BAND SAWS. The parts to be joined must be beveled to a nice fit. Secure the saw at both ends in clamps, as per cut. See that the edges are parallel, or a short and a long edge will be the result, which will cause the saw to run badly and to break on the short edge when strained. Put on the filed parts a thin coat of borax paste. Cut a piece of very thin sheet silver solder of the same size as joint to be made, which place between the lap. Take a pair of tongs having suitably sized jaws for the joint and that have been heated to a bright red, sufficiently to melt the solder. Scrape all the scale off between the jaws with an old file \ hold the joint with the hot tongs until the solder has thor- oughly melted ; remove the hot tongs carefully and follow up with another pair heated to show a dull red, which will set the solder and prevent the joint from being chilled too suddenly. The joint can then be dressed to thickness of the saw blade. It would be as well to have a pair of cold tongs to clamp the hot jaws firmly to the joint, as the hot iron must fit nicely over the whole width of the saw. In joining, do not make the lap longer than is absolutely necessary ; one half-inch is sufficient for scroll saws, three-quarters of an inch for saws two to eight inches wide. ANVIL, HAMMERS and STRAIGHT EDGES for HAMMERING SAWS. The above cut represents the tools necessary for altering or adjusting the HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 55 tension of saws. We make these tools with great care, and of steel best suited to the purpose. SWAGE BAR AND HAMMER. '"'"'""■"'^^fc The above cut represents our swage bar and hammer for use on circular and gang saws. We make the hammers in two sizes ; the bars of any shape, size or weight as desired. GAUGE FOR REGULATING CLEANING-TEETH. Showing the Gauge in Position for Filing the Cleaner-Tooth. The cleaning-teeth of all saws should be somewhat shorter than the cutting teeth, and, although shortened, should be of uniform length throughout. The inner edge of the gauge rests on the points of the cutting teeth, the cleaning teeth projecting through the opening in centre of gauge. Reduce the projecting points by means of a file, until arrested by the edges of the gauge, which is made of hardened steel. Thus tooth after tooth can be rapidly and correctly reduced to an even length by any unskilled operator. 56 HENR V DISSTON &- SOAP'S' THE GREAT AMERICAN. Patented October 4th, 1870. This saw has been subjected to the most se- vere tests, and is one of the Best Cross-Cut Saws ever offered to the public. The most important advantages of this saw are as follows : The outer teeth of each section are as sharp and effective cutting as the teeth of a rip saw, while the middle or regulating tooth determines the extent of the cut in proportion to the bevel of said tooth. The more the centre tooth is beveled the fastfr the saw cuts ; whereas, if the centre tooth is filed square the saw takes less hold on your log, and requires less muscle to drive it. Thus the saw can be regulated to suit the strength of the parties working it. With this saw there is no '■^tearing of the wood, undue friction and drag,'''' which in many other im proved cross-cut saws demand so much muscular exertion without a commensurate result. There is no cross-cut saw in the market by which so much work can be done in ten hours, with so little exertion, as with the " Great Am- erican Regulating Cross- Cut. THE LUMBERMAN is greatly preferred in some sections of the country, and can be easily kept in order if filed according to directions, while so many of the fast-cutting saws of the present day lose their shape. In filing this saw, the round-edge mill-file should be used, and by pressing a little downward as well as sidewise the tooth is kept in the same shape it leaves the factory. < £ U Q c; i'i^ ^':g — -i^aC M , -?-r.ii J-!;^g 5«. ?5i 'ljj^=- -^ Section of Great American Tooth, Full Size. HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN, 57 X3 •£ I (U ' — I ID o r::) o o ' — ' • c! !> ^ ^ S H •; ^^ t5J3 > ^ OJ ^ 5 O •" OT . - > 5j r^ o o -^ O 3 ^ o a; t3 ^ -a O Vh t- " J-' Oi D t;2 OJ rr-! 3 t/2 rt cu o 2 X {- o o \r 2 O 51 < o 58 HENR Y DISSTON &- SOjVS' u ^ o -J hn bJD a. .5 o 3 in o o; (f) ^ u u '^ ^ Q ^3 T3 2 t< !=; < > CO rQ OJ O 0) 13 3 flC OJ .in o 2 cu ^ X o rO r^ oc > T3 < O OJ z <$■ ^ rt -(-J X en CU a. OJ riU % rt D H U C/3 cc OJ 1- 13 Dj CO U D^ J O o Q 2 OJ in < X !-i OJ ^ o < fi 'o" CO IH ^-1 h X nj D >. O o S o t/3 CO CO c 03 o cc o 111 t/3 CU h CU 2 h ^ t c is a c (0 +j 3 o ■■«] o r HAND-BOOK FOR LUMBERMEN. 59 FILES. We use a great number of files in the manufacture of saws, employing over one hundred expert saw filers who file the various kinds of saws with a still greater variety of files. Each filer purchases the files he uses, and is allowed to use any brand of files from which he can get the best result so that we have the best practical means of knowing the proper and suitable conditions required in the manufacture of all the regular and special files for filing saws. MILL SAW FILES. Our regular mill saw files are of the best crucible file steel made, and superior in hardness and sharpness to any files on the market. The teeth are so formed as to be most durable and to file keenly as well as smoothly. TAPER SAW FILES. Our taper saw files in shape and quality are as perfect as the practical experience of the best saw filers can determine. The corners are carefully cut and made the proper thickness to be strong and sharp, and are in every respect made on the best known principles. GREAT AMERICAN FILE. ,.^^^^^ Our Great American cross-cut file was first designed and made by us for keeping in order the teeth of our Great American cross-cut saws. We have given special attention to their manufacture and can confidently guarantee them superior in every respect to any other files made for that purpose. It is also the most suitable file for the " Lumberman " and other cross-cut saws of that style. 60 HENR Y DISS TON 6^ SONS' NEW PROCESS OF SHARPENING FILES AFTER HARDENING.. The sharpening of file teeth after hardening is a valuable improvement in the manufacture of files, and makes those so manufactured (under this. process) as far superior to any made under the old system as a sharpened saw is to a dull one. All cutting tools, except files, are sharpened after having been hardened and tempered, and while it has been deemed essential that files should be treated in the same manner, it has been impossible to sharpen the t°eth until this recently-discovered method makes it practicable to do so, thus insuring. a sharpness that has long been desired, and which cannot be otherwise obtained. New mill files sharpened by this process will not only do more work, but will make finer and sharper cutting edges, and will file a harder saw than the- ordinary file. A trial of files made under this improved process will fully prove their superiority, and can be relied on to have a degree of excellence never before attained, and this without extra cost to the purchaser. Rasps and files for bra?s and other metals are specially benefitted, and all packages containing such rasps and files will be labeled sharpened, and day and date when so done. STAVE SAW FILES. We make several styles and sizes to suit the particular kind of saw or the manner of filing. Every file is warranted. (See Price List.) PATENT "GRIP" FILE HANDLE. This file handle can be instantly attached or detached. The " grip " is hard and sharp and fastens into the soft tang of the file, by pushing the tang as far into the '' grip " as it will go, and then turn the handle to the right until it is tight and firm. SCREW FERRULE FILE HANDLE. .\fi This file handle consists of a hard, smooth screw thread in the front end' of the ferrule, and will cut its own way into the soft tang of the file, b^ pushing the handle as far on the tang as it will go and then screw it on until it is firm and tight. They are made in six sizes, but they will hold any size or shape that will go into the ferrule. •^ ^BSTimiMI AlSa-^ Disston's Saws are used wherever lumber is made, and are the crite- rion of excellence by which the merits of all others are judged. In proof of this, we submit a few of the many testimo- nials which we receive daily from all parts of the w^orld. " Centre Point, Dolby Co., West Virginia, Aug. 12, 1886. " Henry Disston & Sons. " Sirs ; — Your saw came all right. I have used it two weeks, and in that time sawed eighty thousand feet. It is the best saw I ever run — I would not give it for any solid-tooth saw made. It gives entire satisfaction, and I would advise all mill men to buy that kind, as it needs less gumming, and does not take half the work to keep it in order. " Yours truly, "J. N. DORSON." " Duck Hill, Mississippi, Feb. 24, 1887. " Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. " Gents ; — I have been running a mill now 12 months under the instructions you sent me last March, and am prepared to say that it seems to me that if any thinking man will run according to your instructions, he can't help but succeed. I to-day retire from the mill business, and taking this method of thanking you for your advice, I will but say, in the future I shall use nothing but your best hand-saws in my trade. We have some excitement in iron ore here now and don't know what will be the result. Hoping and wishing you the very best success, I remain " Yours obediently, "H. N. KING." " South Whitley, Indiana, Dec. 2gth, 1886. " Henry Disston & Sons. " Gents ; — We have used a number of your saws, the last being a 70 inch. Each and every one has given entire satisfaction. We can cheerfully recommend them to all mill men. " Yours truly, "J. M. BRIANT & CO." " Paducah, Kentucky, Dec. jist, 1886. " Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. "Dear Sirs: — Yours of the 29th to hand, contents noted. The Gang Saws we pur- chased from you gave perfect satisfaction in every respect and we found them to be all you claimed for them. " Yours truly, ' LANGSTAFF-ORM MFG. CO." «2 TESTIMONIALS. " Centreville, N. H,, Dec. 24, j886. " Henry Disston & Sons. " Sirs : — The 52-inch Circular Saw I bought of you last December has been a good one, and I have taken one from your stock in Boston to run this winter. " Yours truly, "J. W. ROBERTS." " Yatesville, N. C, Dec. 28, 1886. *' Messrs. H. Disston & Sons. " Gentlemen : — Yours of the 23d to hand, and noted. We have been using your chisel bit and solid tooth saws for the last five years, and find them satisfactory in every way. " Yours truly, "WHITEHOUSE & HAYES." " Bass River, N. S., Dec. 30th, 1886. *« Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. " Dear Sirs: — We have had many years' experience with Disstons' saws, and find them more satisfactory than any others we have used. " Union Furniture and Mdse Co., L'd. " E. FULTON, " Secretary-Treasurer." " Eastman, Ga., i Month, 3, 1887. *' Henry Disston & Sons. " Gents ; — Yours, by Mr. Harper, at hand. I have been using Disstons' saws since 1859, and consider them the best solid saw in the market. " Yours truly, "]. T. COLCORD." " Williamsport, Pa., May 26, 1887. "" Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons, Philadelphia, Pa. " Gentlemen : — Your letter of the 24th, asking our views as to the merits of your saw is at hand. Would say, we are using a 64-inch saw, 6 and 7 gauge with 72 teeth, running it with steam feed, and have run it without taking it off the mandrel three consecutive days, -cutting from 50,000 to 55,000 feet per day. We cut 63,000 feet at one time without point- ing. We have run it as high as 17-inch feed, without injuring the lumber. . " Yours truly, " CORCORAN, RICHARDS & CO." " Carleton, St. John, N. B., Dec. 29, 1886. « Henry Disston & Sons. " Gentlemen : — Yours of the 28th at hand. You can use our name as recommending the Disston saw as being of as good quality and more uniform than any make we have ever ■used. " Yours truly, " HAYFORD & STETSON." " CkattanoogA, Tenn., January i, 1887. " Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. " Gents : — We have used your make of band saws for several years. We have had less trouble from breakage than formerly, and we cheerfully recommend them as superior to any we have ever used. " Respectfully, "JOHN HOWENSTINE & CO." TESTIMONIALS. 6a •' January 21st, 188^. "Mr W. H. Blakeley, Melbourne. " Dear Sir ; — I have much pleasure in recommending Messrs. H. Disston & Sons' circular and vertical saws, and, during an experience of over thirty years, have found them superior to any others, " I am, dear sir, yours truly, « A. G. PARXICOTT, Manager for Beecham, Clark & Co. " Phoenix Savs' Mills.'* " North Fitzroy, Jan. 27th, 188^. "Mr. Blakeley. " I have much pleasure in stating I have used Messrs. Disston & Sons' circular and vertical saws for some time, and find them to give every satisfaction. " Yours truly, "CHARLES CRISPE." " January syth, j88j. "To Mr. W. H. Blakeley, 116 Russell Street. " Having been requested to give our opinion in reference to Disston & Sons' saws, we have much pleasure in stating that we consider them far superior in every respect to those of any other makers we have been in the habit of using. We prefer them to those of English manufacture, and would not use any others whenever a supply of them is available^ « HALSTEAD, KERR & CO., " Albion Saw Mills, Melbourne." " Brunswick. Jan. 12th, j88s- " Mr. "W. H. Blakeley. " Dear Sir ; — We have much pleasure in testifying to the efficiency of Disstons' Saws- We have now used them, both circular and frame, for some considerable time, and find them superior to any we have before used, both in temper and regularity of gauge. " We are, yours truly, " COOK & SWINBOURN." " March 'jth, 188^. " Mr. W. H. Blakeley, Sawmaker, " Russell Street, Melbourne, " Dear Sir: — The Disston & Sons' saws supplied by you, we have much pleasure in saying, are far and away the best circular saws we have ever used, and we have used many good makers' saws during the last five and twenty years in Adelaide, " Yours truly, « S. HARVEY & WM. KING. " Adelaide." " February 2'jth, 188^. *» To Mr. W. H. Blakeley, Russell Street, Melbourne. " Dear Sir ; — Having been requested to give our opinion respecting your saws, we da so with great pleasure, having had them in use for six years, and have been thoroughly- satisfied. We recommend them to all we know. " We remain, yours, &c., « EASON & CLAYTON. " Brighton & St. Kilda Saw Mills." 64 TESTIMONIALS. " Emporium, Pa., Dfc. s-jth, 1886. " Henry Disston & Sons. " Gents ; — Your favor of the 23d inst. at hand; in reply would say will be pleased to help you in this matter, as I can speak from a 20 years' experience of handling your saws, and have found them to give good satisfaction in every respect, especially your gang saws. Please forward me one of your new circulars or catalogues when ready for issue. " Yours truly, " HENRY AUCHER." " Cold Brook Springs, Massachusetts, Dec i^th, i88j. " Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. " Sirs; — The 48-inch chisel point saw, loxii gauge, with 36 teeth, that I bought of you March 5th, 1884, is the best saw that I ever run for a thin saw. I cut out 300,000 oak and pine, and 200,000 railroad sleepers with one set of teeth, and did not spend over ten hours time in filing, while sawing that quantity of lumber. I think that is doing well with one set of teeth. I see in the Lumber JVor/J that you have got up a patent tooth, and if it is better than your chisel-tooth, please let me know. " Truly yours, "R. F. PARKE." " Westonia, Georgia, j^an. ^th, j88y. " Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. " Gents; — All we say about the Disston Saw is that we prefer them to any saw that we know of. At times we cut a good deal of turpentine timber that has turned into hard light- wood, and we find that they stand up to this work better than any saw we have ever used. " Respectfully, « S. R. & J. D. WESTON." " Edwards, New York, Dec 20th, 188^. " Henry Disston & Sons. "Gents;— -Please send me your Illustrated Catatogue and price list of your circular saws, "And oblige, "GEO. W. FLACK, « P. S. — The chisel-tooth saw I got last Spring (through the Birdsall Co.,) works splendid." " Cleveland, Ohio, yan. 20, 188 j. *<■ Henry Disston \ Sons. "Gentlemen; — Having used the 60 and 72-inch diameter, Disston Patent Chisel Point Circular Saws, purchased of you, for seven months, we have no hesitation in saying that they are the best we have ever used. The chisel points furnished with same are a perfect success, and often enable us to cut 300,000 feet with one set of points. We expect to use one more circular saw this season, and possibly two, and as soon as we can arrive at a decision will place the order with you for the Disston. " Respectfully yours, " CLEVELAND SAW MILL & LUMBER CO. "George R. Payne, Vice-President." " Orangeburg, South Carolina, yuly 28, 1886, " Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. "Sirs; — The chisel-point saw arrived on Monday, the 23rd, and was put to work immediately. It works admirably, walking through 36-inch logs, cypress and pine, without trouble, and making as beautiful lumber as I have ever seen. " Yours truly, « F. COPES." TESTIMONIALS. 65 " Minneapolis, Minnesota, Dec. sgth, 1886. -" Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. " Sirs : — I have used the Disston saw in my saw-mill for the last seven years, and they ■have given me better satisfaction than any other make that I have used, and I have tried ■almost all brands of saws. " Yours truly, "JAMES GOODNOW." " Henderson, Kentucky, Dec. 23th, 1886. « Henry Disston & Sons. " Sirs -. — The 62-inch lo-gauge saw you made for P. J. McNamary, eighteen months ago, ordered by me, is running yet, as good as the first day I hung it on the mandrel. I have been running it myself ever since I got it, and have never had a hammer on it. I believe I can wear it out and never have it repaired. I run it at the 3-inch feed, and it never has been warm one particle since I got it. It is the finest saw that I ever put a file 'On. I will want another one after a while. You make the boss saw to my notion, and the >man that can't run one of them is no sawyer. " Yours truly, "LEON WORLEY, Sawyer" " Ronceverte, West Virginia, yan. 4th, 1887. " Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. " Gentlemen: — We have used your circular and gang saws for years with satisfaction, and take pleasure in recommending them to the public as first class in every respect. " Yours very truly, " E. C. BEST, " General Manager." " LaGrange, Ohio, Jan. sgth, 1883. *' Henry Disston & Sons. " Gentlemen : — In regard to the 60-inch chisel tooth saw, 8 gauge, of H. Disston & Sons' make, which we bought of you, we were well pleased with it. It stands up good (Under 3-inch feed with full cut of saw (27-inch cut) in frozen timber. We are cutting from 8,000 to 12,000 feet of lumber per ten hours, edging all lumber with same saw. We could nearly double the amount if we had a good edger. We saw all kinds of timber common to Northern Ohio, such as oak, ash, beech, maple, hickory, elm, poplar, basswood, etc. " Three-inch being the largest feed we have, we do not know how much our saw would stand, but would no doubt carry much heavier feed, at least in soft wood. We are cutting from 100,000 to 200,000 feet with each set of 36 teeth. We have used one set of teeth three weeks after the corners were worn off, by spreading with swage, which works well if the swage is of suitable shape. You may refer to us any one you wish in regard to Disston's saws. " Yours truly, "BUTLER & BEHNER." " CoNROE, Texas, Dec. 31st, 1886. " Henry Disston & Sons. " Sir : — In answer to yours of the 29th to give testimonial as to the H. Disston's saws, I will state that I have used the Disston saws for the last twelve years, and that I find them the best that I have ever used. I have tried a number of other makes, but I think the Disston far superior to any that I have ever tried. " Respectfully yours, "I. CONROE." 66 TESTIMONTALS. " Orlando, Florida, Aug. 26th, j88j. " Send two dozen eyes or holders for teeth for your inserted tooth saw, 7 gauge, 52-inch^ 32 teeth. Your saw works very fine in our hard yellow pine. Prefer it to any we have used, "ORLANDO LUMBER CO.^ ■'W. R. GULICK." " Houston, Texas, Dair. 30th, 1886. " Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. " Sir : — I cheerfully say that the Henry Disston & Sons' circular saws I purchased of you are the best I ever used, and in future no other shall be my choice. " Yours truly, "HERMAN A, BAUER." " Cynthiana, Kentucky, Feb. i6th, 188^. " Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. " Gents ; — I bought of you through W. Baldridge & Co., of Cincinnati, Ohio, about one year ago, one of your 52-inch, 6x7 gauge, patent chisel point circular saws. I have ruit it ever since through the roughest burr oaks and sugar tree, and in fact as rough timber and as tough as the Blue Grass Region of Kentucky affords, and it cost me ^85.50, and to-day I would not take ^500.00 for it, if I could not replace it. It works like a charm, no trouble to- keep in order, always exactly round and each tooth cuts its proportion ; it has not cost me one cent yet, and I can make smoother lumber with less pains than with any other make and caii saw off more points of dog'?, and nails, and iron of any description, than any other make, and do less injury. I actually sawed half off the lower half of my saw guide a few days ago, and did not hurt the saw a particle. Broke one tooth, and I just put in a new set in twenty minutes and went on, whereas if it had been a solid tooth it would have cost me- probably ten dollars. They will stand more hardships than any other saw made in U. S. A. " Yours truly, "J. E. HAYES." " Barnum, Texas, yan. jst, 1887. " Henry DisstoN & Sons, " Sir ; — The Disston saws bought of you some time ago have given perfect satisfaction^ and we have almost decided not to use any other. We have not had occasion to use any of Para belting yet, will write you when we have thoroughly tested it. " Yours truly, "W. T. CARTER & BRO." " Sawmills, Narracoorte, S. A., yun. ijih, i88s- " Mr. W. H. Blakeley, Sawmaker, Russell Street, Melbourne. "Dear Sir; — I have for the past five years used H. Disston & Sons' circular and' vertical saws, and during that time I have found them to give complete satisfaction, having had them at the roughest of work both in South Australia, New South Wales, and Victoria. I am taking care to recommend them to my friends and sawmill men generally with whom. I am acquainted ; and as I find them of such a superior temper and so much more reliable than any other maker I. have tried, I will not use any other when a "Disston" is. procurable. " I am, dear sir, yours faithfully, "A. C. MUNRO." TESTIMONIALS. 67 " SuRRENCY, Georgia, Jan. 7, '5<5. "Henry Disston & Sons, " Gents : — The Disston saws purchasecf from you some time ago are doing all we would ask, and in fact, my saw filer prefers them to any saws we have now in use. In future, all saws I order will be the Disston saws, as I believe them to be the cheapest and best saws that saw-mill men can use. ! " Yours truly, "GEO. L. IFFERMAN, " Sup't McDonough & Co." " WiLLiAMSPORT, Pa., June i, 1887. " Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons, Philadelphia, Pa. "Gentlemen: — It affords us much pleasure to inform you that the two 66-inch, 8 gauge saws, with eighty-five teeth, are the best saws we ever used. We have the solid tocjith saw, same size and gauge, also inserted tooth saw, but we do not use them only as a. change, as we can make better lumber, and a great deal more of it with your saws than with any of the others. We run from 6- to 20-inch feed with your saw. Have used your gang saws for over fifteen years, and consider them the best in the market. "Yours truly, "BROWN, CLARK & HOWE." " DOUGLASTOWN, N. B., Bee:. 26, 1886. " Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. "Gentlemen; — Yours of yesterday received. I do not now use any other saw than Disston's in my gangs, andyfw^ them good — in fact, they are the only saw in my experience which will stand the work. For gang saws give me Disston's every time. It does not pay to touch any other. " Yours truly, "E. HUTCHISON." " Suffolk, Virginia, Dec. sg, 1886. " Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons, Philadelphia, Pa. " Dear Sirs : — The three 64-inch circular saws bought of you a short time since for our new mill, made of your compressed steel, have given entire satisfaction. " They swage better, and will do more work from one filing than any saws we have ever seen. ' " Yours truly, "THE GAY MANUFACTURING CO-" " Rehn, Pa., ^une i, 1887. " Messrs. Henry Disston & Sons. Dear Sirs: — I don't know as I ever told you how I liked your Band Saws; but will say now they are the best there are, without a doubt. " Yours truly, •' F. J. McNUTT." ^ HENRY DISSTON & SONS' -H-[INCORPORATED.]-H^ ►jfKEYSTONE-H- iaw. Tool BRANCH HOUSE, vf^rjicaer©, ill. BRANCH HOUSE, IJouisVilJe, ijy. PHiLiADEiiPHiA, Pfl. PART II, Construction of Saws And How to Keep Them in Order. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1888, by HENRY DISSTON & SONS, Incorporated. In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. INTRODUCTION. The demand for a book of instruction on saw filing having demonstrated itself to us not only by personal inquiry and letter, but also by the return of fine quality saws, pronounced defective through a lack of knowledge of how to keep them in order, or by the use of extensively advertised so-called saw-sets and other tools, — which pull the saw blade apart or so distort it as to render it unfit for use — has led us to compile this little work for gratuitous distribution for the enlightenment of the amateur and the improvement of the expert meclTanic. Having thus introduced the object of this book, we will endeavor to give in the following pages such practical information as to the proper methods of keeping saws in order and of the tools with which to do so, that will over- come the above mentioned pit-falls to the proper working of the saw. We offer our large experience and the reputation of our goods for the efficiency of this treatise, which has been gleaned from the most practical and oldest saw filers of our establishment, many of whom have been with us two score of years. While we admit there are other methods of putting saws in order, there is no difference in the result obtained ; our modes we claim the easiest and equally or more effective. We take occasion to thank our patrons for their appreciation of the high standard that our products have attained, — which has been the basis for our constantly increasing business — which shall be maintained, and trust thereby to renew our good will and increase our trade in future. _ HENRY DISSTON & SONS, Incorporated. CONTENTS. PART H. Introduction, Principle of Construction of Saws, Rip Saws, .... Cross-Cut Hand Saws, . Rake or Pitch of Cross-Cut Saws, Filing Saws, .... Fine Toothed Saws, Compass, Butcher and Hack Saws, Setting Saws, Star Saw-Set, .. . Adjustable Saw Clamp, Large Cross-Cut Saws, . File for Great American Saw, etc., File for use on "Acme" No. 120 Saw, Band Saws, . . . • • 3 5 5.6 6-8 9-12 12-16 12, 13 14 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 CONSTRUCTION OF SA WS. PRINCIPLE OF CONSTRUCTION. The saw is either reciprocating or continuous in action, the first being a flat blade and practically straight edge, making a plane cut, as in hand, mill, jig and sash saws; the latter, either a circular or rotating disc, cutting in a plane at a right angle to its axis, a cylindrical or barrel shape with a convex edge cutting parallel to its axis, or a continuous ribbon or band running on two pulleys making a plane or curved cut with a straight edge parallel to their axes of rotation. Practically speaking, the teeth are a series of knives set on a circular or straight line, each tooth cutting out its proportion of wood and kept from cutting more by the teeth on either side of it. Each tooth should cut the same amount and carry out the chip or dust, dropping it to the sides or below the material being sawed. Different kinds of wood require teeth different in number, angle or pitch and style of filing. The perfection of a saw is one that cuts the fastest and smoothest with the least expenditure of power ; to do this, it is evident that each tooth should be so constructed and dressed as to do an equal proportion of the work, for if any of the teeth are out of line or shape, they are not only useless them- selves, but a disadvantage to the others. We find many good mechanics who frankly acknowledge that they never could file a saw satisfactorily ; the prob- able reason is that they never studied the principle of the action or working of the tool. There is no reason why any man of ordinary mechanical ability should not be able to put and keep his saw in order, but like all trades, it requires practice and study of the subject. A careful study of the following illustrations and explanations, will greatly assist in the selection of a saw and the best methods of keeping it in proper working order. A saw tooth has two functions — paring and scraping. A slitting or ripping saw for wood should have its cutting edge at about right angles to the fibre of the wood, severing it in one place, the throat of tooth wedging out the piece. In a cross-cut wood saw, the cutting edge also strikes the fibre at right angles to its length, but severs it on each side from the main body before dislodging it. RIP SAWS. Fig. 1. Fig. I is a four-point rip or slitting saw with the rake all in front, where the cutting duty is. This saw should be filed square across, filing one- CONSTRUCTION OF SAWS, half the teeth from each side after setting, which will give a slight bevel to the cutting edge of tooth, as it should be for soft wood ; for medium hard woods a finer toothed saw with five points to the inch should be used and dressed in the same manner ; for the very hardest and toughest cross-grained woods a saw still finer, the teeth filed slightly beveling, as ripping cross-grained stuff partakes a little of the nature of cross-cutting. In all cases where ripping 15 done, the thrust of the saw should be on an angle of about 45 ° to the material being cut, as shown in Fig. 2 ; this makes a shearing cut, an advantage that can be very quickly demonstrated with an ordinary pocket knife cutting any piece of wood. For ripping thoroughly dry lumber, it will be found advantageous to use an extra thin back saw which will run without set. CROSS-CUT HAND SAWS. In cross-cutting, the fibre of the wood is severed twice — on each side of the saw — the thrust dislodging and carrying the dust out. AND HOW TO FILE THEM. Fig. 3 is a five-point peg tooth cross-cut saw with the rake on the side. For the same reason that the rip saw has the rake on front of tooth, the cross-cut has it on the side, as that is where the cutting duty is. The bevel or fleam to teeth in Fig. 3 is about 45°, while there is no pitch at all; Fig. 3. the angle on each side being the same, forms the "peg tooth,'''' which is best adapted to cutting soft, wet and fibrous woods, and used principally as a buck saw. In all cases, the size and length of teeth depend largely upon the duty required ; a long tooth has the demerit of being weak and liable to spring, but the merit of giving a greater clearance to the saw-dust. The throat space in front of each tooth must be large enough to contain the dust of that tooth from one stroke ; the greater the feed, the deeper the dust chamber required, or, more teeth. Where the teeth are fine, the shape of the throat is of special interest. The first point to be observed in the selection of a savv^ is to see that it "hangs" right. Grasp it by the handle and hold it in position for work- ing, to see if the handle fits the hand properly. These are points of great im- portance for comfort and utility. A handle should be symmetrical, and the lines as perfect as any drawing. Many handles are made of green wood; they soon shrink and become loose, the screws standing above the wood. We season our handle-wood three years before using. An unseasoned handle is liable to warp and throw the saw out of shape. The next thing in order is to try the blade by springing it, seeing that it bends regularly and evenly from point to butt in proportion as the width and gauge of the saw varies. If the blade is too heavy in comparison to the teeth, the saw will n/ever give satisfaction, because it will require more labor to use it ; the thinner you can get a stiff saw the better; it makes less kerf and takes less muscle to drive it. This principle applies to the well-ground saw. There is less fric- tion on a narrow true saw than on a wide one ; you will get a smaller portion of blade, but you will save much unnecessary labor at a very little loss of the width. See that it is well set and sharpened and has a good crowning breast ; place it at a distance from you and get a proper light on it, by which you can see if there is any imperfection in grinding or hammering. We should in- variably make a cut before purchasing a saw, even if we had to carry a board 8 CONSTRUCTION OF SA WS, to the hardware store. We set our saws on a stake or small anvil with a hammer; a highly tempered saw takes three or four blows, as it is apt to break by attempting to set it with but one blow. This is a severe test, and no tooth ought to break afterwards in setting, nor will it, if the mechanic adopts the proper method. The saw that is easily filed and set is easily made dull. We have frequent complaints about hard saws, but they are not as hard as we would make them if we dared ; but we shall never be able to introduce a harder saw until the mechanic is educated to a more correct method of setting it. As a rule, saws are set more than is necessary, and if more attention was paid to keeping points of teeth well sharpened, any well- made saw would run with very little set, and there would be fewer broken ones. The principal trouble is that too many try to get part of the set out of the body of the plate, while the whole of the set should be on the teeth. Setting below the root of the tooth distorts and strains the saw-plate, which may cause a full -tempered cast-steel blade to crack and eventually break at this spot, and is always an injury to the saw, even if it does not crack or break. The teeth of a hand-saw should be filed so true that, on holding it up to the eye and looking along its edge, it will show a central groove down which a fine needle will slide freely the entire length ; this groove must be angular in shape and equal on each side, or the saw is not filed properly and will not run true. Fig-. 4-. M Fig. 5. Fig. 6. Fig. 7. ru u \A Fig. 4 shows how the groove should appear on looking down the edge of the saw ; the action should be such that the bottom of kerf will present the appearance as shown in Fig. 5, and not like Fig. 6; the cutting action is as shown in Fig. 7, the cutting being done with the outside of tooth, the fibre of the wood is severed in the two places and the wood is crumbled out from point to point by the thrust of saw. The proper amount of bevel to give the teeth is very important, as is demonstrated by the above figures, for if too much bevel is given, the points will score so deeply that the fibres severed from the main body will not crumble out as severed, but be removed by continued rasping, particularly in hard woods, as they require less bevel, as well as pitch, than soft wood. Fig. 8 on next page, shows a six-point cross-cut saw filed with a medium amount of bevel on front or face of tooth, and none on the back. This tooth is used in buck saws, on hardwood, and for general sawing of woods of varying AND HOW TO FILE THEM. Fig. 8. degrees of tenacity. This style of dressing is the best/ but a numbered saws each having teeth suited to its particular work, will be found more ad- vantageous than trying to make one saw serve for all kinds of hand saw work. We will now consider the cross-cut saw tooth, in regard to rake or pitch; this being one of the most important features, too much care cannot be taken to have the correct amount of pitch for the duty required. To illustrate this, Fig. 9 represents a board, across which we wish to make a deep mark or score with the point of a knife ; suppose we hold the knife nearly perpendicular as at B, it is evident it will push harder and will not cut as smooy^ly as if it was inclined forward as at A; it follows then that the cutting edge of a cross-cut saw should incline forward as at C, rather than stand perpendicular as at D. Too much hook or pitch, and too heavy a set are very common faults not only detrimental to good work but ruinous to the saw; the first, by hayl 10 CONSTRUCTION OF SA fVS, ing a large amount of pitch, the saw takes hold so keenly that frequently it *'/iaf2gs tip" suddenly in the thrust — the result, a kinked or broken blade; the second, by having too much set, the strain caused by the additional and unnecessary amount of set is out of proportion to the strength of the blade, and is broken in the same manner. The most general amount of pitch used is 60°, though this may be varied a little more or less to advantage, as occa- sion may demand. The next point to be considered is the bevel, or fleam, of the point. In Figs. 10, II and 12, the filer, as in all cases, files from the heel to the point, which is the only correct way. The file is supposed to be horizontal to Fig. II. m.,^-' kMMkAkMMMMMh the perpendicular of the side of saw, and on an angle of about 45° longitu- dinally with the length, measuring from file line toward heel. AND HOW TO FILE THEM. 11 Fig. lo is a five-and-a-half-point cross-cut saw showing the same amount of fleam front and back; this saw is best suited for work in soft wood, and where rapid, rather than fine work is required. A shows the position of the file, B an exaggerated view of shape of point, and Cthe shape of point. Fig. II is a seven-point saw for medium hard woods, illustrated in same manner as Fig. lo. This tooth has less fleam on the back, which gives a shorter bevel to point, as at C. Fig. 12 is a still finer saw, having ten points to the inch. This saw has no fleam on back, the result being very noticeable at C and B. This style of point is for hard wood. It will be seen that the bevel on the front of teeth in Figs. lo, ii and 12 is the same, but the bevel of the point looking the length of saw is quite diff"erent, consequent upon the difi"erence in the angles of the backs. Fig. 13. 13 IS a representation of some of the saws we have seen; there 12 CONSTRUCTION OF SAWS, are entirely too many such now in use, and we have no doubt their owners are shortening their lives in the use of them as well as those of the saws. To owners of such saws we say, take them to the factory and have them re- toothed, or buy a new saw and take a fresh start, and steer clear of this style of filing. As we said in the preceding pages, and as will be seen by Figs. lo, ii and 1 2, the filing should be done from the heel of saw toward the point. Maciy practical saw filers contend this is wrong, that the filing should be done from point of saw toward the handle, but the only support they have for their theory is that they do away with the feather edge that the filing from the heel of saw puts on the cutting face of tooth. The feather edge is no objec- tion, as the main part of it is removed when the teeth are side-dressed after filing, as we direct in our summary of saw filing on page i6. Against the correctness of filing from point to handle may be cited the following ob- jections I Where a different angle of back is required, (it being remembered that angle of face should be the same in nearly all cross-cut hand saws, and that angle of back governs angle of point,) it will be found very difficult to obtain it without changing angle of face of tooth, and as the cutting duty is on the long side of face, any change is of course of great influence. Again, (though we think the above argument sufficient) to file from point of saw, it is necessary to file with the teeth bent toward the operator ; this will cause the saw to vibrate or chatter, which not only renders good, clean, even filing impossible, but breaks the teeth off the file. In the preceding illustrations, we have only given the coarser saws that are in most general use, but the same principle of filing should be applied to the finer toothed saws regarding angles and pitch suitable for woods of different degrees of hardness, the only actual difference being that one saw has finer points, and they being finer, require a little more care and delicate touch in setting and filing. Fig. 14. Figo 14 is a section of an eleven-point saw suitable for the finer kinds of work on dry, soft woods, such as cutting mitres, dove-tailing, pattern work, etc. Fig. 15 shows a section of saw with same number of points as Fig. 14, 3 ^ ^ o c a! , , en CU ^ ^ 3 <: n> rt re o n- <■ ro rt rti O 0) rt) E H 5" H cn p- 2 ?^ S£ D 3 rt> 3 1-1 c^ O 5^ > (I I ^ 3 O) o C ri- n; CO o c m CO CO O CO O c/i D n O O •-: rc CL 3 3 TT 3 3- 3- O <-< c 3- ;;; c 3 rD -^ - -' rD O aq rD fu a- rD C/5 c crq X " T3 a <^ rti ■<; en rD !^" <; " p 3 p o o 3 3- rD 3" O^ 3 CL(yq rD D- rc Q- rD o _ P 3 3- rD p cr o < rD p 3 ^ aq p;- 3- O I— I 3 ^ cr c rD P3 n p § 3 3 c^ 5" T! aq -t , . 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"-^ 3 rS' aq P 3 ■-: O o rD c/3 rD C/5 C/) o - Ur -^ '-' "^ ""^ -T-i ' •' 3- ^ 3- ?^ n r 1^ H o o CO o SIS p p p P GO M r t> d H r > O o C/1 o o c/1 CD o »^ ■-■■ I — ■ o o ■rf Pi- ca V. -X r '=' o ^ o ^ - PS F '^ >3 ^ ^ f^ H H !^ (D »=^ s H H !^ 5S w cl o c^ C! » ^ w ^ ■^ -r ^ 5 ££ ^" CO CO O ::^ ^ 00 pd SO '^ ^ ^ Si °3 ^ s ^ ^ ^ ^ ■In ^ ^ s i: a 0^ § ^ ^" ft ^ 04 3- ^ ^ Si ;*. o B Ed U n cor o o »X3 •xl is- >-■■ I— ■ •5" AND BOW TO FILE THEM. 13 Fig. 15. but filed same as Fig. 12. This saw is for finer work, same as Fig. 14, •only on the medium hard woods. Fig. 16. Fig. 16 is a still finer saw for fine work on the very hardest woods, having same dress as Fig. 14. Fig. 17. Fig. 17 is the finest toothed saw that is made for wood. All the above mentioned saws in Figs. 14, 15, 16 and 17, are made especially hard and will not admit of setting, but being made thinner at the back, when properly filed, will cut clean and sweet. Teeth such as shown in Fig. 17 are used principally on back saws, and are filed same as any hand-saw. Fig. 18. mmiMimW'\]WM\\\MmMX\]\S3}M: Fig. 18, is a section of a pruning saw which differs from a cross-cut liand-saw in being thicker, having a little more pitch to the teeth and being ground thinner on the back in proportion to its width. These, of course, 14 CONSTRUCTION OF SAWS, are made for cross-cutting only, as there is not as great a variety in the- work, nor as much difference in the woods to be sawed as to degrees of hard- ness, being used only as a pruning saw on fruit and shade trees, which are always practically green and comparatively soft. The illustration on page 13, shows number of points, pitch and bevel most generally used and best adapted to such work. COMPASS SAWS. These saws are for miscellaneous sawing, having in turn, cross-cut, rip and mitre. The best form of tooth for this purpose is the same as Fig. 18, excepting that it has a trifle less bevel. As the nature of the work partakes about as much of cross- cutting as of ripping, and as a cross-cut saw will rip better than a rip will cross-cut, it is apparent the shape of tooth should be between the two. These saws are all ground thinner at back but set same as any hand-saw. Scroll and web saws are ground, filed and set in the same manner, and should have pitch according to the work to be done. If more ripping than cross-cutting is done, as in large felloes, more pitch is given than in compass, saws and vice versa, though these saws are almost universally run with a rip- saw tooth and have very little variation in the pitch. BUTCHER SAWS. These saws are for cutting bones. The pitch and number of points- are about the same as a fine tooth hand-saw for medium hard wood, but filed straight through without fleam or bevel to teeth, with light, even set, same as in fine hand-saws. HACK SAWS. These saws are for cutting metal, such as brass, iron, or untempered steel, and should have a little finer tooth than the average butcher saw, being made to run without set and ground thin on the back for clearance. They are so hard that none but the best superfine files will sharpen them. Like the butcher saws, the filing must be straight through and no bevel. SETTING SAWS. This is an important part of the work of keeping a saw in order and should' always be done after the teeth arey<5'/;;/,?^/and before filing. In all cases the set should be perfectly uniform, as the good working of the saw depends as. much on this as on the filing. Whether the saw is fine or coarse, the depth of setshould not go, at the most, lower than half the length of the tooth, as it is certain to spring the body of saw if not break the tooth out. Soft, wet; woods require more set as well as coarser teeth than dry, hard woods. For fine work on dry woods, either hard or soft, it is best to have a saw that is. ground so' thin on the back that it requires no set ; such saws are made hard and will not stand setting, and an attempt to do so would surely break the teeth out. AND HOW TO FILE THEM. 15 There are many saw-sets that ruin the saw ; the best form is one that involves the principle of the hammer and anvil ; with such a set the teeth would all be bent evenly, and cannot be otherwise, though repeated blows be given. In the Star saw-set, represented in the following engraving, this principle is involved, and we guarantee this tool to do the work satisfactorily. THE STAR SAW-SET. Prominent among the advantages clamied for this set is that it can be operated by the foot by means of a treadle, thus leaving the hands free to guide the saw ; or it can be used by striking on the top with a light mallet. A is the plunger, operated by a treadle attached to E, under the machine, a slight tap with the foot setting the tooth ; B, the hammer or striking part ; C, the anvil ; D, the movable gauge ; F, the screw to regulate the amount of set. The striking part, and the anvil, or portion which receives the blow, are star-shaped, and similar in construction. The points are all of different sizes, numbered from one to six, and are designed to set different sized teeth. It will strike a blow as sharp and effective as though by a hammer, and is the 16 CONSTRUCTION OF SA fVS, most useful and complete saw-set that has ever been offered. If the saw is hard, several blows should be given in setting it, raising the back of the saw from the guide-screw J^ when the first blow is given, and gradually lowering it with each blow until the process is complete ; thus many a good saw will be saved from utter ruin. A trial will suffice. Be sure to clean the saw teeth before setting. ADJUSTABLE SAW CLAMP. Care should be taken in filing a saw to keep the teeth of uniform size- not one large and one small, one up and one down. Unless your teeth are regular, your set can never be regular. When the teeth of a saw become irregular in size, it is useless to attempt to regulate them without filing them down until all the teeth are of equ^l height. Then proceed to regulate the size by filing straight through. We know from experience that not one man in a thousand, be he ever so practical and proficient, can regulate the teeth of a saw without first filing down and then filing straight through. After filing the saw, properly set and sharpened, lay it flat on a true board, rub over the points of the teeth on the side with a smooth or partly worn flat file, which will regulate the set and insure smooth cutting, making, the filing last longer. After this operation, should the saw not run true, take another cut with the file over the side toward which it leads. A fast cutting cross-cut saw should have deep teeth. To make them deep they must be filed on an angle j to do this to advantage the clamp (see engraving) should be used. /• AND HOW TO FILE THEM. 17 and thus a deep gullet tooth can be filed as readily as a square bottom tooth. Each kind of work requires a tooth to suit it if good and quick work is wanted ; hard wood requires a tooth with less rake than soft wood. Teeth generally have not enough saw-dust chamber. LARGE CROSS-CUT SAWS. \ -»^A/'^ Fig. 19. Fig. 19 represents a log of wood showing ends of grain which consist of more or less minute fibres or threads which constitute the tenacity of the wood. Our object with this saw is to sever the fibres or threads in the same manner as shown in cross-cut hand-saws, Figs. 3, 8, 10, 11 and 12, the only difference being that these large saws are constructed to cut equally well on either stroke, and that many of them have cleaner or drag teeth to carry out the dust, which we will consider later. The same general rules for filing and setting cross-cut hand-saws apply to these saws, excepting that the angle of tooth is same on each side; the shape and space of teeth and different amounts of fleam, of course depends, as in other saws, largely upon the work to be performed. The greatest amounts of fleam are for the soft woods and less in proportion to hardness of same: ; this principle also applies to the amount of set. Fig. 20. Fig. 20 represents the plain cross-cut tooth which is used in any and all kinds of wood to equal advantage, when teeth are spaced, set and filed CONSTRUCTION OF SAWS, \ in accordance with instructions given in the preceding pages in relation to proper space, pitch and bevel. Fig. 21. Fig. 2 1 represents a section of -our improved California Tuttle tooth ; this tooth is used principally on soft woods; the cleaner tooth must be filed square and about one thirty-second of an inch shorter than the cutting teeth. Fig. 22. Fig. 2 2 is a section of our Lumberman saw, showing the style of file that should be used to preserve the original shape of tooth. The style of setting and filing this saw is the same as the ordinary cross-cut hand-saw, each alternate tooth set and filed from reverse sides. Fio-. 23 represents file for keeping teeth of our Great American cross- cut saws in the same shape in which they leave our works. V AND HOW TO FILE THEM. 19 Fig-. 24-. Fig. 25. Fig. 24 shows the manner of ifiling the long edge of the end tooth. Fig. 25 shows the manner of fiHng the short or inside edge of the •end tooth, Fig. 26. Fig. 26 shows the section of the file in the gullet of the saw. This file, though made expressly for our Great American cross-cut saw, will be found equally serviceable in filing the "Lumberman," *' Climax," and other cross-cut saws. The Great American tooth has been subjected to the most severe tesst, and is the best for general use ever offered to the public. These saws are ground extra thin back, which enables them to run with less set and more ease. Fig. 27. For filing the teeth as represented in Fig. 17, we make a special file repre- sented above, by which the original shape of teeth is maintained. This style of tooth we put in our ''Acme " saw,' No. 120, which is a fast, smooth- cutting saw, and which runs entirely without set in dry seasoned lumber only. The teeth are made so hard, that an attempt to set them will inevitably result in breaking them. 20 CONSTRUCTION OF SA PVS. T\ BAND SAWS. The only difference in the manner of setting and sharpening, and the shape of teeth of small band saws and ordinary hand rip-saws is that the teeth must have pitch enough to cause it to lead into the cut. In the ordinary rip- saw as shown in Fig. 2, the teeth meet the fibres of the wood at an angle which gives a shearing cut, while in the band saw, all the teeth strike the fibres alike — square across ; consequently, if there is no pitch to the teeth, the saw is crowded back against the guide or guard, which not only subjects it to unnecessary strain, often breaking it, but crystallizes the back edge of blade from which cracks are sure to start. Many good saws are condemned and ruined from these two causes alone. Great care should be taken to guard against this, as well as against setting the teeth too deep, for if the set runs down to gullets of teeth, the blade will be distorted, give poor results, and eventually break at the roots. Having explained the construction and methods of keeping saws ia order, and enumerated a few of the many tools with which to do so, we will furnish our more complete price lists of our entire manufactures on applica- tion. Quality of goods considered, our prices are - the lowest. Quotations promptly furnished and correspondence solicited. i ^ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS IN COMPETITIO] With the Woi FIRST FEIZE, GOLD MEDAL MEDALS. 1874— Franklin Institute. 1876— Centennial Exhibition, 1877— Sidney Exhibition. 1878— Paris Exhibition. 1880— Sidney exhibition. 1881 ALTONA EXHIBITION, GERMANY. I Gold and I Silver. Display of unsurpassed excellence of Material, Style and Finish, every article worthy ot the highest commendation.