rui^'^^n^n h):r ' '. 'ft ".. . ' ^^"^. ^.> •» , ,1, " J,U ' °:> ^>^n / ''^^ 0' ^^. "^^ v^ .V o o 0^ ' C;.'-- 1\ ^ ^ .y^ "'^-, ' J .^' \ w^ ./ ^- % ■\ yw. C^ '^^s t^; >' ^ A JOURNEY TO PERFORMED IN 1817; GIVING AN ACCOUNT OF THE PRESENT STATE OF SOCIETY IN ITAL¥. AND CONTAINING OBSERVATIONS ON THE FINE ARTS. BY HENRY^ASS, STUDENT OF THE ROFaL ACADEMY OF ARTS, NEW-YORR. WBLISHED BY JAMES EASTBURN AND COt. AT THE LITERARY ROOMS, BROADWAY. Clayton & Kingsland, Printer's* 181B. ^ 1^ TO SIR G. N. NOEL, BART. M. P. DEAa SIR, As the friend of my youth, as the patron of my early eiSbrts in an arduous profession, as one to the stores of whose mind I have been so much in- debted for the improvement of my own, whose uni- form kindness and attention are deeply engraven on my heart, to you, I presume to dedicate my first literary work. As the hope of your approbation has alwaj^s been a great stimulus to my exertions, the possessing it in this instance will not be the least of my re- wards. The generality of princes and nobles, if they were stripped of their purple and of their titles, and cast naked into the world, would immediately sink to the lowest state of society, without a hope of emerging from their obscurity. But your personal merit is independent of your fortune. Whatever had been your choice of hfe, by the force of your IV DEDICATION. natural talents you would have obtained, or at leaat would have deserved, its highest honours, if your invincible modesty had not counteracted the effect V/ith every sentiment of respect, I have the honour to remain. Dear Sir, Gratefully and sincerely yours, THE AUTHOR. 60, Gnat Russell' Street? Bloomsbury Square y Jjpril, 1818, PREFACE. Jn offering the following work to the public, I do it with no small degree of diffidence ; more parti- cularly as I touch on subjects, and go over ground, which have before been so ably treated. But, as no publication has lately appeared respecting Italy,' I was anxious to communicate what had passed within my own knowledge, as far as regards the pre- sent state of society in that country ; and to admo- nish the future traveller, (who will often find him- self in the situation of Damocles, with a sword sus- pended over his head by a single hair,) of what he has to expect under the existing governments. That the general course of the narrative might not be interrupted, 1 have prefixed my observations on the Fine Arta, with the ambitious desire of con- tributing my mite towards the improvement of the national taste. A 2 VI PREFACE. Having thus briefly stated the objects of the publication, and being satisfied that virtue will not be offended nor vice promoted by the peru- sal of my book, I dismiss it to its fate with tranquil- lity. CONTENTS. PRELIMINARY REMARKS ON THE FINE ARTS. Inattention of writers to the subject — The cultivation of the Fine Arts necessary to form a great nation — Their excellence springs from superiority of intellect — Report on the Elgin marbles — The greatest empires indebted to the Arts for their glory — State of the Arts arises from the artist's exertions — Genius depressed — The artist's qualifications — An artist's re- flections — Artists, public benefactors — The ladies of the pre- sent day indebted to them — Happiness in the study of the Fine Arts — The Greeks — Their feelings on the subject — Object of the imitative arts — Analogy that exists — Extremes of the Arts and Sciences — Advantages of the Fine Arts over the sis- ter arts, poetry, and the dramatic — Instanced in the cartoons of Raftaelle and Greek sculpture— Virgil and Homer — Kean and Kemble — General knowledge arising from a study of the Fine Arts — Historical anecdotes — Human happiness increas- ed by a love of painting — The way to live, instead of exist- ing — On what excellence in the Fine Arts depends— Cause of RafFaelle's superiority — Contrasted with the Venetian school — Origin of the bad subjects of pictures painted by the old mas- ters — Paul Veronese — ^^British institution — Painting school in the Royal Academy — Expression and character — Versatility of talent injurious — English school of painting contrasted with those of the French and Italian — Battle of Austerlitz, by Gerard — The public, the only real patrons of art — The artist and amateur — The elevation of the Fine Arts, tlie object of all enlightened minds — The Elgin marbles — Their beauty and effect on national teiste — The Britisli fair — Government con- Vin CONTENT^^. gratulated — Public establishments— The Royal Academy — Its origin — Its excellence, to whom indebted — The British gallery — Cause of its decline — Bad system of instruction in priv^ate tuition — The cause — Superiority of the English school — Its eminent professors — England possesses sufficient for its advancement. Page 1 to 26. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION. National prejudice against the French — Ignorance gives birth to it — Propensity to finding fault in English visiters — Its ori- gin — Their false representations of the state of things — Eng- lish profusion — Cheapness of living — Charges at a French ho- tel — Causes of the dissatisfaction of some of the English in France — Anecdote — Comparison of the French arid Italians —The state of the two countries contrasted — Modes of travel- ling — Safety in France — Danger in Italy — Present anarchy «f Italy, compared witJi Turkey — Cautions in the choice of companions — Qualifications necessary — Relations of travel- lers on that subject — To travel armed, necessary in Italy — The brigands — Their respect for the English — Conclusive ob- servations. Page 27 to 35. CHAPTER IL Object of the journey — Erigliton — Charges of the boatmen — Passage by sea — Anecdotes — The temporary superiority a use to the sea gives the sailors — Reflections — A love orl' superiority ftnimates mankind — Instances in the different classes of socie- ty — Virtue and knowledge — Intrigue and cabal — Domestic vipers — The weak and stupid — Rank and fortune — Affecta- tion of hauteur — Aped by little minds — Grand little folks— CONTENTS IX Dieppe, its general appearance — French women— Anecdote of an interesting girl — Feelings of an Englishman, on his first visit to France— General courtesy of the French — French dili- gences compared with English stage coaches — English rage for neatness — Its consequences — Comparison of the English and French higher and lower classes — Causesof the inferiori- ty of the higher classes of the French — The despotism of the government — Government influence, the cause of one dynas- ty so easily succeeding another — Rouen — Ludicrous appear- ance in French travelling — Anecdote — Idle tales of the French women — First sight of Paris — Fine character of the present race in France — Owing to the revolution — Emigrant nobility — General character of the French women. Page 36- to 46. CHAPTER IIL PARIS AND LYONS. Reasons for not entering into a lengthened detail of Paris- Wrong idea of the French, from publications by prejudiced persons — English coldness — French liveliness — Their ridicule of the untravelled English— Practical philosophy necessary in travelling — General sketch of Paris — Its magnificence — Edifices — Monuments — Gardens — Curiosities — Bustle of the streets — Amusements — Fine air and consequent sensations — Treats for the sensualist — Food for the intellectual — Best views of and in Paris — Charge of demoralization against the present French — Compared with the old Bourbon court — ■ Anecdote — Journf^y to Lyons — Ronsseaii^ — -Appearance of the country — Straight roads — Fontainbleau — Anecdote — Nation- al feeling of the French — Their enthusiastic love of Buona- parte — Anecdotes — Hills — Picturesque scenery — Anecdote of a young woman — Napoleon — Lyons — Its great men — Its an- cient history — Description of its present state — Situation- Climate — Picturesque beauties — Edifices — Bridges — Curiosi- ties — Celebrated women — Charms of nature — Coaclusive reflections. Page 47 to 00. X CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. CROSSING THE ALPS. Mountains of Savoy — Beauty of vegetation — Fruits — Grand scenery — Valley of Eschelles — Grotto — Duke of Savoy — Tunnel of Buonaparte — Chambery — Cascade — MulbeiTy trees — Mont Melian — The Isere — Aiguibelle — The Arc — Avalanches — The inhabitants afflicted with goitres — Causes — La Chapelle — New road — Scenery awful and grand — St, Jean de Maurienne — Its situation — The air cold — ^Torrents — Cascades— Snow-decked cliffs — Mountains well cultivated — Lanslebourg — Savoy women — Mont Cenis — Napoleon — The grandeur of his ideas and works — Grand road — Plain on Mont Cenis — Hannibal — Descent into Italy — Feelingson entering — Suza — Hercules— Hannibal — Vale of Suza — Rivoli — Fruits — Canals— The Dora Ptipuaria. Page 61 to 08. CHAPTER V. TURINi ALESSANDRIA, AND GENOA. Turin — Its fortifications — General appearance — Architecture Decorations — Manufactures — Climate — King of Sardinia Alessandria — Its citadel and bridge improved by Napoleon — Processions — Marengo — Novi — The Bocchetta — Fine views — Rich scenery — Genoa — Similitude of the inhabitants to the English — The Genoese, a noble race — The Sardinian govern- ment detested — The city like a besieged town — The soldiers and effigy of the king openly insulted — Treatment of the Eng- lish by the Sardinian goveinuient- Police and consuls Their manoeuvring, exactions, &c. — The English consul — Adored by the Genoese — His noble conduct — Genoese labourers Streets — Houses and palaces, general appearance — Church of Carignano — Bridge — Genoese mode of terminating exis- tence — Former power of Genoa — Genoese citizens — Their independent spirit — Their complaints against England's miii- i^ter? — Their love for the English people. Page 69 to 77. CONTENTS. XI CHAPTER VI. THE FEULUGCA, LEGHORN, AND PISA. Ceremony of taking leave — Men kissing each other — Mediter. ranean sea — Comforts of an Italian feulucca compared — Amusements and pleasing or nnpatinns — Fleas — Tormentfrom them — Bold shore — Mode of catching fish — Porto Fino — Clearness and colour of the water— Etrurian coast — Porto di Venere — Appenines — Fine appearance — Padrone — Napole- on — Believed to be dead by the Italians — Told that our min- isters deceive us — Land at Leghorn fatigued and disgusted — Leghorn a free port — Reception of the English — ^Pavement of the city — Coaches — Princess of Austria embarked for the Brazils — -Description of the ship — Its stores, smells, splendid decorations, and dirt — Olfactory nerves of the princess — Ger- man luxury — Leghorn — Its port — Its origin — Women — Ita- lian language — Bronze statues — Road to Pisa — Luxuriancy of the vines — Pisa — Its situation — Buildings — The leaning tow- er — A phenomenon in art — Its description — The cathedral — Its decorations — Former power of Pisa — The Baptistry — Its echo — The Campo Santo — Its ornaments — Botanical garden — Tower of Ugolino— Origin of Pisa. Page 78 to 86. CHAPTER VII. FROM PISA TO ROME. Purchase a carriage — Small oversight — Sceneiy similar to that of England — St. Miniato — Ancestors of Napoleon — Sien- na—Its situation — Fete— Tournament— Gayety of the city — Chanting and serenading— x\miability of the Catholics— Re- flections— Insignificance of the human species— Compared with ants to their disadvantage — Folly of human pursuits — Human weakness — Instanced in disputes on religion — On tlie mode of worship — Inhuman animosity to each other — Diver- sity of opinion— Reflections thereon— Insanity of human be- Xn CONTENTS. ings — Harmonious sounds — Bad road — Country infested by robbers — Carriage breaks down — Villany of the post-mas- ter — Carriage repaired — Country hilly and barren — Inns wretched — Carriage again breaks down — Mended — Ascend the mountain of Radicofani — Banditti — Postillions appeared of that class — Our shattered equipage — Dreary appearance-— Character of the country around — Chtinge horses at the top of the mountain — ^View grand and awful — Darkness set in — Descent fearful and terrific — Carriage overturned — Light- ning—Terrific noises — Fears of Banditti — Threats of postil- lions—Arrive at Aquapendente — Character of its inhabitants — Situation — Italian extortion — The English most subject to it — Natural caverns — Bolsena — The lake — Beautiful scenery — A celebrated wood — Montefiascone — Its situation — Pecu- liarity in Italian scenery — Muscatel wine — Viterbo — Paved with lava — Carriage again overturned — The country a desert — Boccano-rEnthusiastic feelings on the first sight of Rome. Page 87 to 97. CHAPTER VIIL ANCIENT ROME. Arrival — Directions for becoming acquainted with its localities- Best points of view — Emotions and disappointment on find- ing Rome a modern city — Ancient Rome has disappeared — Causes of its destruction — Wretched feeling of the Farnese and other families — Works of destruction seen — Modern Rome a disgrace to the local beauties of the surrounding hills — Contrast — Principal olijects of attraction — The Capitol- Reflections when seated on the tower — Ancient state com- pared with the present — The foiiim — Grand and interesting in ruins — Palatine hill — Tarpeian rock — Tiber — Ruins of the forum — Admirable spirit of the Frencli — Pillar of Phocias — Dutchess of Devonshire — Original pavement ofthe forum— • ' Enjoyment in treading on it — Depth of the niins — Rome in tk^ hands of the French or English — Triumphal arches — CONTENTS. XIII Arch of Constantine — Preservers of art — Elgin and Buona. parte — Constantine, a brutal and tasteless plunderer — His wretched vanity and mad ambition — His destruction of the arch of Trajan — The Coliseum — Its structure, size, and ruins — Its destruction — By whom accomplished — Original magni- ficence of the forum — Ruins to the walls — Coriolanus — Baths of Caracalla — Present state — Hercules of Glycon and Far- nesian bull found there — Baths of Titus — Present state — Lao- coon found there — Walls — Aqueducts — Mausoleum of Caius Cestius — Aventine hill — Circus Maximus — Bape of the Sa- bines — Mount Palatine — Romulus and Remus — Present state of the seat of infant Rome — The Pantheon — Feelings on en- tering — Its beauty and excellent preservation — Its /former state — Busts of celebrated men — Portico — Origin of the word pantheon. Page 98 to 109. CHAPTER IX. MODERN KOME. Its description, site, and space — Present celebrity-^St. Peter's— Situated on the Vatican mount — Its appearance on approach- ing — Its magnitude and beauty of decoration — Its want of power to fill the mind — Its marbles, mosaics, &,c. — Ascent to the top — Extensive view from the cross — Gothic taste of St Peter's — Its littleness of style, when compared with ancient Roman grandeur — The Vatican — Its wonders — The Sistine chapel — Michael Angelo Buonorotti — The chambers of Raf- faelle — The state of their divine works — Negligence and want of proper feeling in the Papal government — Gallery of sculpture — The Apollo — The Laocoon — Badly seen — Con- trasted with their situation in Paris — State of feeling in Rome as regards the works of art — Indifference of the inhabitants— The situation of the chef d'ceuvres of Raft'aelle, Domcnichino, and Guercino — Circular colonnade of St. Peter's — The castle of St. Angelo — Mausoleum of Hadrian — The bridge of St, Angelo — The Tiber — The Campidoglio — Its appearance — b X»V CO?sTENTS. Our disa])pointments compared with Father Paiirs — The sculpture — The paintings — Tlieir neglected state — Antonine tolumn — Its situation — To whom erected — Its state — The Trajan column — Good taste of the French — The forum of Trajan — Character of Roman sculpture — Farnese palace — Paintings of Annibal Carrachi — Dirty state of the palace — Fleas — Contemptible appearance of the buildings — Feelings excited — Villa Farnesiana — Galatea and Cupid and Psyche, by Ralfaelle — Their loveliness — Surrounded by a state of desolation — The man who shows them, compared with the one at Hampton Court — The sewers — Arch of Janus, and ?raall one of Septimus Severus — Basso relievoes — Temple of Minerva Medica- — The Catacombs — St. Paul's — Another in- famous spoliation of Constantine's. PagellO to 119. CHAPTER X. MODERN ROME : EXHIBITIONS. In the mausoleum of Augustus — Music, fire works, and bull baits — The latter a harmless amusement — Conversaziones and concerts — Marquis Canova — Thunder storm — Streets — Fountains — Quirinal hill — The Pope's residence — His palace guard — His appearance and character — Mode of salutation — Monte Cavallo — Statues of Castor and Pollux — Piazza d'Es- pagna — Pincean hill — -Promenade — Piazza del Populo — Three principal streets — II Corso — A drive for carriages — Celebrated house for ices, he. — Piazza Navona — Place of as- semblage for the inhabitants when inundated — Anecdote — Il.nglishmen and dogs — Bridges — Horatius Codes — The Jews — State of their quarter — Uncleanliness of Rome — The Ro- man flea — Toleration — Churches at all times open — Compar- ed with St. Paul's in London — Desperate state of the country — Character of the Pope's soldiers — The escort necessary — Cautions in joui'neying to Naples. Page 120 to 126. COxN TENTS, V^ CHAPTER XT. ROME TO NAPLES, S])leiidid recoileclions on classic ground— Dciugers of the road- Horace — His narration — Appian Way — Its ancient descrip- tion — Via Campania — Via Tusculum — Ancient monuments — Claudian aqueduct — Horatii and Curiatii — Mountains of Albano — Alba Longa — By whom built — Sepulchre of Ascani us — Castle Gondolfo — Milo and Clodius — Lake of Albano-- Its estuary — A Roman work at the time of the siege of Veii— - Gensano— Carlo Maratti— Nemi— Lake of Nemi — The mir rorofDiana — Civita Lavinia — iEneas — Antoninus the Pious- Celebrated pictures— Corioli — scene of the exploits related in Virgil's JEne'id — Velletri — Family of Augustus — Residence hi the emperors — Dwelling place of Barbone the robber — Ci/ tenia — St. Paul's — Tres Taberna? — The brigands — Assassina- tion — Diabolical system — Mode of operation— Negligence of the restored government, contrasted with the excellence of that of the French — Imbecility of the present authorities in Italy — The murdered man — Another murder the same niglit — Particulars — Advantage taken by the guards and postillions — Torre del Tre Ponti — Poraptine marshes — Origin — The La- cedemonians — Goddess Feronia — Populous state of the dis- trict formerly — Description of the marshes — Ciesar's proje^/i for draining them — Augustus — Trajan — Sixtus V.— Pius VL —Cicero — xVntium — its temples — Apollo Belvidere and Gla- diator found there — Residence of Circe — Uh'sses — Terracina, the ancient Anxur — Horace's description — Douaniers of the Roman state — Barrack formed in the rock^ — Tower of tlie confines — Genial climate — Grotto — Sejanus and Tiberius — Fondi — Wines — Neapolitan douaniers — Their disappointment — Their roguery — Cautions — Itri — Wretchedness of the in- habitants — Tomb of Cicero — Fountain of Artacia — Uiysses — Mola di Gaieta, the ancient Formise — The Lcslrigons — Ovid — The women of Mola di Gaieta — Cicero — Formianum — Gai- eta — Its foundation by iEneas — Mausoleum of Munatius Plau- cus— Anecdote — Temple of Mcrcuiy — Curious rod: — CurigU- ^Vl CONTENTS. ano — Minturnum — CaiusMarius-Falcniia— Its wiiie?--Fal»iu.s' and Hannibal — Romans and Sainnites — Improvement of .scc- nery-Capua — Its origin — Roman cruelty — Destiuction of Ca- pua — Aversa — Its ancient celebrity — The country luxurious — Approach to Naples — Its noise — ^What compared with. Pag'e 1 27 to 143. CHAPTER XIT. Disappointment — Splendour and wretchedness—Streets of Na- ples — ^-Description — Heterogeneous assemblage — Noises — (.'onfusion — Dangers — Importunities — Chaos — Good humour — Misery anduncleanliness — Fine attire — Vermin — Delicious fruits — Leisure moments — How employed — Naples the cli- max of dirtiness — Pleasures for the curious — Deliglits for the entomologist — Hotels — Essence of lavender — Glorious cli- mate — Degraded inhabitants — A delightful residence for the apathetic — Origin of all evils, a bad government — Soldiers — Their unlimited power and dastardly conduct — Picking pock- rU — Anarchy — Corruption and inefficiency of the govern- ment — Instances — The king — His appearance — His good na- ku'e and want of principle — His lady — Naples, the seat of hixury — Its origin and history — Napoleon — Murat — His ex- cellent character — Much regretted — The Studio — Hercules of Gly'con — Bronze equestrian statues — Pictures — Models — Cartoons of Cupid and Psyche — Colossal statue of Buona- ))ar(e — Equestrian statue of Murat — Statues in San Severo — Their bad taste — TauroFarnese — Its story — The story-tellers — Description of them and their auditories — Beautiful groups — Punchinello — Theatre San Carlo — Gaudiness of decora- tion — Destroys the effect of the scene — Anecdote — Superiori- ty of the French theatres — Mode of lighting, contrasted with our own — Contemptible performances — Vetturini — Coffee- houses — Ices — Beggars — Dresses of the lower classes — The hair of the women — The Avomen of Naples pot beautiful — CONTENTS. XVll Luxurious bathing — Tlie Lazaroni — Deliciousness of the cli- mate — Description of the bay — Reflections — True happiness is in virtue. Page 144 to 157. CHAPTER Xlir. VESUVIUS, HERCULANEUM, AND POMPEII, Progress to Portici — Accident — Vesuvius — Its grandeur during the time of an eruption — Ascent by night — The hermitage — Friar John — Further progress described — Difficulty of ascent — Approach to the crater — Heat of the ground — The explo- sions — Magnificence of the sight — Human power contempti- ble in comparison — The flowing of the lava — Its description — Excessive heat — A golden shower — Dante's Inferno — Li- quid fire — Probable danger — Sunrise — Fine view — Laugha- ble descent — Layers of lava — History of Vesuvius — Its vari- ous eruptions — Museum of Portici — Paintings and curiosities — Descrent into Herculaneum — Description — Impression of a man's face in the lava — Narrowness of mind which conducts the excavations — Destruction of Herculaneum — Its ancient history — Pompeii, a fairy city — Sensations in exploring-— Temples— Amphitheatre — Forum — Tribune — Mansion of Sal- lust — Streets, shops, and tombs — Eftect of enchantment Overwhelming of Pompeii. Page 158 to 173. CHAPTER XIV. EXCURSIONS, TO POZZUOLI AND BAIiE. Mountains of Posilipo — Grotto— Its origin and description- Tomb of Virgil — Ancient laurel — Territory of Pozzuoli — Its former and present character— Lago d'Agnano — Frogs — Hy- pothesis — Baths — Grotto of the dog — Its description and ef- fects on various animals — Cause — Solfatara — Hercules — Poz= zuoli — Its origin — Tombs discovered— St. Paul — Amphithea- tre — St. Januarius — Labyrinth of Daedalus — Cicero — Bridge b2 XVIII CONTENTS. of Caligula — Description — The mad emperor — Monte Niiovo — Return to Naples — Sail to Baiae — Mediterranean sea compar- ed with Chelsea Reach — Reflections — Our situation compar- ed with that of Ulysses — School of Virgil — Monk and the fishing-rod — Captain Grose's definition — Land of the Cim- merians — Baiae — Marcellus and the Princess Charlotte — Their similar fate — Roman voluptuaries — Roman cement — Tem- ples — Echo — Baths pf Nero — Their description — Hell — The Sibyl's cavern — Its present appearance similar to Virgil's de- scription — Ulysses — iEneas — The Lake Avernus — The river Acheron — ^Dante's description — The Elysian fields — Ancient Cumae — Temple of Daedalus — Present appearance of the country — Cape Mesinus — Pliny — Falernian wine — One of the Cyclops, Page 174 to 190. CHAPTER XV. RETURN TO ROME. Reflections — Ceremony of hiding watches, &lc. — Pomptine marshes — Danger in passing — Dismal appearances — Drowsi- ness and suffocation — Feelings and terrors — Shrieking noises compared to the Furies of Orestes — Awfulness of situation — Sudden alarm — The brigands attacked and overpowered — The banditti's cavern — Description of its inmates — The hovel explored — Consternation of travellers — Their laughable ap- pearances — Brigands made prisoners — Observations — Travel- lers robbed and stripped. Page 191 to 197. CHAPTER XVI. ROME : EXCURSION TO TIVOLI. The Pope — Excursion to Tivoli — The Anio — Lake of Solfatara —Its ameU— Tomb of Plautiu:;— The villa of Hadrian— Its CONTENTS, ma: former magnificence — Its ruins — Hadrian — His taste display- ed — Tivoli — Temple of Vesta — Temple of the Sibyls — Gene- ral Miolis — Grotto of Neptune— Scene of magnificence — In- terior of the grotto — Anecdote — Character given the English — Beautiful appearances — Loveliness of climate— Romantic scenery — Producing luxurious repose of mind—Villas ot ancient celebrated men — Fine view — Villa of Moscenas — Cascades — Lucien Buonaparte — Latium — The country of the Sabines — Frascati — The brigands and the Pope's guard — Return to Rome — Temple of Vesta — Theatre of Marc^llus — Description-— Portico of Octavia — Place of exhibition for the ancient painters — Mount Janiculum — Signor Camucini — Begging friars — Their impudence and greediness — The Pope's guards join the brigands — -La;st sight of Rome. Page 198 to 204, CHAPTER XVII. DEPARTURE FROM ROME. Thoughts on leaving — Escape of robbers — Civita Castellan a— Ancient city of Veii — Its site — Siege — Roman soldiers re- ceive pay — Otricoli — Fine viev^^— Former state of the road — The Appenines — Beautiful scenery — Narni — Its romantic situation — Antiquities — Terni — Tacitus — Monte Somraa — Plains of Italy — Ovid — Story of Phaeton — Spoleto — Its cele- brity — Hannibal — The Clitumnus — Its ancient character — White oxen — Virgil — Trevi — Romantic situation — Foligno — Skeggia — Mountain rent asunder — Bridge — The Metaurus — Defeat of Asdrubal — Flaminian way cut through a mountain — Urbino — Fano — Anecdotes of the irritability of the Italians —The Adriatic— Fevers— Death of Mr. Woodforde— Tri- umphal arch — Pessaro — Its appearance — The Adriatic — Cuttlefish — Fruit — Princess of Wales— Republic of San Ma- rino — Its long existence — Its poverty and consequent inde- pe-ndence — Rimini — Triumphal arch— Italian taste — Caesar XXll CONTEx^TS. CHAPTER XXL MILAN. Its ancient state; made the seat of empire by Dioclesian — Its remains and present state — Made the capital of Italy by Na- poleon — The cathedral — Compared with St. Peter's — Rescued from destruction and finished by Napoleon — Its grandeur and decorations — Charles Borromeo — Lodge of the Emperor — Arena of Buonaparte — Its description — Triumphal arch to Napoleon — Its grandeur and tfxcellence of workmanship — The Brera — Paintings — Last Supper of Leonardo da Vinci — False assertions respecting it — Theatre La Scala — Its ap- , pearance — Excellence of the performances — Promenades — Coftee-houses — Streets — General appearance of Milan — - Complaints of the people — French and Austrian governments contrasted — Inhabitants^ — Women — 'Treatment of the English — Anecdote to the glory of England's national character — Buonaparte — Money still coined bearing his effigy — Statues of himself and family publicly exhibited — Justice to Italy. Page 245 to 251. CHAPTER XXIL PASS^AGE OF THE SIxMPLON. Farewell to Italy — Its present state and character of its inhabi- tants — Reflections — Riches the source of trouble and vexa- tion — True happiness in poverty, with a mhid free — Road to the Simplon — The jj^seno — Hannibal and Scipio — Lago Maggiore — Statue of CUfcles Borromeo — The Borromean Isles — Anecdote of Buonaparte — Fariola — Marble quarry — Domo D'OsoIa — The defiles — Magnificent bridge — Gallery — Grand Scenery — Mode of blowing up the rocks — Appear- ances grand and beautiful — Column for the arch of Napoleon — The inhabitants express their love of Buonaparte — Scene- ry producing emotions of awe and delight — The gallery of Gondo — Scene of prodigious grandeur — The gallery of Al- CONTENTS. XXIU gojjy — Ascent to the clouds — Beautiful appearances— Village of the Simplon — Excellent fare — Pretty women — Derivation of the Simplon — Lake— Snowy region s-^The glaciers — De- scent — The old route — The Hospice — Kindness to wayworn travellers— Valley of the Rhone—Brigg— Works of the Sim- plon. Page 252 to 259. CHAPTER XXIII. VALLEY or THE RHONE : GENEVA. Brigg — Its inhabitants — Travellers' complaints — Curious con- tests — ^English colonel — Valley of the Rhone — Sion — Its cleanliness and pretty women — Scenery — Fruits — Nature ever lovely — Man only destroys its beauty — The Rhone- Lake of Geneva — Geneva — Its celebrity and situation — Eng- lish women — Manufactories — Inns — Departure — ^Jura moun- tains — Dijon — Mont Blanc — Arrival home. Page 260 to 265. CHAPTER XXIV. CONCLUSIVE OBSERVATIONS. The governments of Italy — Compared with that of France — The absurdity of legitimacy as applied to governments — The objects for which governments are instituted — The agree- ment equally binding — The people's power to reject — Inca- pacity of the governments of Italy — Instances — Governments of the present day characterized — Advantages of the French government in Italy, and consequent improvement of the state of society — Lighting the streets — Modesty of the legiti- mates — Fearful state of Italy — Fine qualities of the Italians — ■ The French — Origin of our hostility — Anticipation — French nobleness of heart — Anecdote — ^French vivacity — Anecdote —Servants-Politeness and dexterity- Anecdotes-England an Englishman's boast. Page 266 to 274. Directions to travellers. Page 276 to 28L FRELIMINARY REMARKS ON THE PINE ARTS. That the history of the arts has been less cultivated than that of arms and politics, is a general and just complaint ; but to which writers will seldom be in- cHned to pay attention, because it is always an easier task to relate wars and negotiations, debates and battles, than to describe the gradual and almost im- perceptible progress of genius and taste, in works of elegance and beauty. In this age of refinement, when, from the number of literary publications, accumulated stores of know- ledge are laid open, and rendered of comparatively easy access to the inquisitive mind, we cannot but congratulate ourselves that the good sense and spirit of the people have overcome the bigotry of govern- ments, whose interest has been thought to consist in keeping them in a state of ignorance. There is not any thing which more unequivocally proves the great progress of civilization, and im- provement in the national intellect, than the general nnd increasing feeling of all ranks in favour of the Fine Arts. In England, the arts are but in their in- fancy ; but we begin now to feel what constitutes the true glory of an empire. We are now sensible, that merely to be a warlike nation, is to possess a rank little above barbarians ; and that to be truly great, we must cultivate the mind. God, in his formation of man, stamped on him his own image : and as in form we are superior to every other animal, so likewise has he endowed us with mental powers, which, the more they are cultivated, the nearer we resemble Himself. Intellect is what raises one man above another ; and it is by a combi- nation of the intellectual powers of many men, that one nation, or one age, is rendered superior to ano- ther. Excellence in the Fine Arts springs from a highly cultivated mind ; and, if we refer to the an- cient ages of glory of Greece and Rome, or in mo- dern times, to that of the Medici, we shall find, that the height of excellence to which the imitative arts had arrived in those periods was what conferred on them so much distinction. Every refined mind must be delighted in the peru- sal of the late report of the House of Commons on the subject of the Elgin marbles ; and it is a pleasing reflection, that by the co-operation of the public at large and the artists — the one fostering that talent which forms so large a portion of the integral of a great empire, the others exerting their energies to the utmost to deserve such encouragement — Britain may one day stand forward as proudly pre-eminent for her higher intellectual attainments in the Fine Arts, as she is at present superior to other nations in her commerce, arms, and resources. How much all nations have been indebted to the Fine Arts for their celebrity is not Stufficiently con- sidered. Babylon we first became acquainted with from its walls, its temples, and its hanging gardens ; Eg3^pt, from its pyramids, mausoleums, and obelisks ; Greece, from its paintings, sculptures, temples, and the exquisite taste and judgment with which every thing was executed ; Rome, by its noble and magnifi- cent structures^ — monuments of its former grandeur. Take these avvay, and what knowledge should we have of them, farther than what we have of th.e Scythians, Huns, or any other race of barbarians ? Indeed, to say by whom the arts were first culti- vated, is to inquire what nation was the most an- cient ; to say where they attained their haghest per- fection, is to show which was the most refined ; to say where they were least known, is only to point out which was the most barbarous. Such is the con- nexion of the Fine Arts with refinement of mind, that high attainment in the one springs from the cul- tivation of the other, and this cultivation is what constitutes the true glory of an empire. The arts in England have arrived at their present state with but a small portion of public encourage- ment, and principally by the artists' own exertions. Government has been too busily employed in war and bloodshed, to extend its fostering hand to their ^id. But when we find our representatives joining with the artists, and speaking the language of the late report, thus inculcating a true feeling on the public, may we not hope, that in England shall be another age of glory — a rival to those of ancient Greece and Rome ! However greatly this age may have improved on the last, there is still much to be done to overcome the vitiated taste of the multitude ; and we have to lament that men of talent are often compelled from necessity to yield to the prevailing bias, and paint subjects unworthy of them. A man of superior powers, inspired with the enthusiasm of genius, can never be discouraged ; yet, a want of judgment in those who have it in their power, or who profess to encourage art, may render abortive his utmost exer- tions. He may feel within himself the proud con- sciousness of superiority, while sharing the fate of Homer,* Milton, and others of glorious memo» ry ; but it is a lamentable thing that such men should incur the risk of sinking into the grave unre- warded, and that it should be left to after ages to appreciate their merit, to the eternal disgrace of the one in which they lived. Few people are aware of the requisites to form an artist, or of the variety of studies necessary in an historical or poetical composition. A knowledge of anatomy and perspective, correctness of drawing, which can only be obtained by long practice and an eye critically nice, form but the groundwork. Por- traiture, landscape, and architecture, it is frequently necessary to combine with beauty of form and appro- priate expression. But while the hand is made obedient to the will, the mind, on which all superior excellence depends, must be cultivated. He must have a knowledge of the history of mankind, with an intimate acquaintance with the laws, customs, cha- racter, and costume of nations, individually and col- lectively. He must be conversant with chronology and the heathen mythology, to enable him thorough- ly to comprehend classic and poetic history. He must understand the laws of nature ; in fact, he must have within the grasp of his mind the universal frame. ^ To these, and many other requisites that may be acquired, must be added an endowment of nature — - a susceptibility of feeling which renders the pos- sessor alive to every passion ; for without this it is impossible to excite interest in others, and to im- prove, or convey instruction to mankind, which is the true end of art. Such is the character of the artist ; and to show the feelings which animate hina generally, I may here add the reflections of one on a summer's day, whose study was situated on high, and which, from being surrounded by the busts of the heathen deities, was called Olympus, ^' While the inhabitants of the lower world are oppressed with heat, seated on Olympus I enjoy a continual spring. In my elevation, I am fanned by * In the beautiful mythology of the Greeks, they have de- seribed such a character in Prometheus, stealing fire from hea- ven ; meaning, that by the cultivation of his powers, he ena- bled himself to possess the qualities of the gods, and to animate mankind. 1% every fragrant breeze that is wafted through the at- mospheric region of the gods. Temperance, Taste, and Literature, are my handmaids : Temperance offers me a cup filled from the limpid stream which never fevers the brain. Taste and Literature furnish me with food which never cloys. Here, then, is happiness which but few enjoy. With what tran- quillity of mind I look on the bustle of the crowd ; the petty jealousies, the haughty littleness, which excite contempt ; the pert carriage, the pedantic strut, which excite laughter ; all, all, appear like so many insignificant bubbles in a stream, they be- come inflated, burst, and are no longer seen." Those who refine the public taste, says Dr. John- son, are public benefactors ; and artists have con- tributed more to it than any other class of men. — Suppose we select the least of these improvements, for instance. Dress. Although our ablest writers, Addison, Steele, and others, have for the last cen- tury aimed at the introduction of a more correct taste, and have decried the gross absurdities which prevailed in dress, they did not suggest a better. — ' This was reserved for the Fine Arts ; and to its Professors are we indebted for the present elegant and tasteful costume of the ladies. From Reynolds we may date the establishment of the English school, and to him and those who followed him, England owes the refinement of its taste. In the eye, as in the mind, there is an intuitive perception of what is right, which produces a love of harmony and of good order, or what is called natural. Simplicity is the character of nature, and from simplicity springs ele- ganqe and beauty. Custom will often reconcile us to error, but the moment truth is presented to our eyes or minds, we are struck by the contrast, and gradually reject the delusion that betrayed us. So it has been in this instance ; artists were obliged in portraiture to copy what they saw ; but, when they executed any pictures of imagination, they displayed in them what their own refined taste suggested. — They showed that nature wanted no such decoration as furbelows, flounces, and hoops ; or powder^ patches, pomatum, toupees, &c. but that she was, " when unadorn'd, adorn'd the most." These pic- tures, when exhibited side by side, struck home to every spectator, and the revolution in dress was al- most instantaneous. The birth of the Arts in Eng- , land forms a new era in our history, and when we consider the benefits that have already arisen from their cultivation, we shall do well to carry this cul- tivation still higher, that their influence may be more generally felt. '' Those who make painting their study enjoy na- ture beyond description. It is to be regretted, that artists, whose particular province is description, whose minds are educated in the contemplation of nature, and whose faculty of observation is constant- ly alive, should not be induced to indulge the world more than they do with their writings. Every ob- ject which presents itself affords them fresh food for meditation, and is an inexhaustible spring from which ^hey store up beauty in their minds. Happy in the 8 stlidy of nature, they pass their lives in admiration of the works of God. They receive a pleasure from their reflections, unknown to uncultivated minds, and they rise from the contemplation of na- ture to nature's God. Indeed a love for the Fine Arts excludes all grosser passions from the soul. — Taste is the angel which drives the money-changers out of the temple of the mind, and leaves it in pos- session of every human virtue." Such is the senti- ment of the intellectual beautiful produced by the cultivation of a taste for the Fine Arts. The Greeks, whose refinement of feeling is a constant subject of our eulogium and of our imitation, considered an artist as a national ornament, a public benefactor, whom all were bound to honour and reward. Their first citizens sought for honour in the cultivation of the several branches of the profes- sion, as among others may be instanced in Socrates, who devoted himself to sculpture. Though the Fine Arts were considered under the superintendence of Apollo and the Muses, yet painting was by the ancients particularly appropriated to Minerva, as adding the qualities of wisdom to those of genius, and uniting to the most finished dexterity of art, the most profound sagacity of science. The object of the imitative arts is to instruct and improve mankind ; and it is from painting and sculp- ture possessing this power to a greater degree than any other art, that has conferred on them the appel- lation of divine. Their excellence is founded upon the same principles, and is guided by the same rules, as other noble eftbrts of the human mind, and which ought to influence all our actions, the avoiding of extremes ; these and the analogy that exists in the various arts and sciences may be thus shown. In painting, sculpture, and architecture, the extremes are incorrectness and affectation ; in poetry, insipidity and bombast ; in music, monotony or redundancy of sound ; in the dramatic art, tameness or ranting and pomposity ; in our behaviour, vulgarity or affecta- tion ; these words being synonymous, will tend to show that all are founded on the same principles. '« A picture is a rante pnem."*^ The representa- tion of things has at all times a greater effect than the description. Men and women, portrayed in their natural form, with that exquisite feeling, the result of virtuous actions, beaming through their ex- pressive countenances, must convey to the mind of the spectator a most sublime idea of virtue, which can render bodies like themselves so interesting and beautiful. On the other hand, to see the same forms, with the appalling expression of a guilty con- science, excites terror at a deviation from the path of rectitude, and pity to think that beings endowed w^ith such powers, should have made so erroneous a choice. What person possessing a refined mind, but must experience these sensations in contemplating the cartoons of Raffaelle ! but must feel awed by the Mutum est pictura poema. 10 calm dignity of the denunciator Paul, appalled by the agony and deathlike horror displayed in Ananias, and experience all those grateful emotions on view- ing the countenance of Christ, which exhibits the greatest benevolence and a godlike serenity, where he delivers the keys to Peter ? Poetry, in its description of the various passions, is often compelled (to produce the desired eifect) to resort to measures which give a meanness to the character it has before endeavoured to ennoble ; fof excess of passion always betrays a weakness which is often inconsistent with the character degcribecl. — Among many, I shall instance the horrible shriek which Virgil gives his Laocoon, that has this effect ; and although this may be an appropriate circumstance for poetry, as perhaps it would have been impossi- ble to have made the proper impression of the agony of body and mind, had it not been so strongly ex- pressed, yet it is inconsistent with the dignity of his character. The sculptors of the Laocoon have so ennobled and dignified the most ungovernable of all our passions, bodily pain, that we become in love with misery ; it affords a lesson of fortitude more impressive than any taught in the schools of philosophy ; and we al- most long for misfortune to give us an opportunity of bearing it in so godlike a manner. It is urged that nothing can exceed Homer's de- scription of a battle, or the feehngs excited by the perusal of it ; but, does the contemplation, and the becoming familiar with scenes of war and bloodshed improve our humanity or elevate our minds witli godlike qualities ? No ! it rather degrades us by- brutalizing our feelings. War must be as hateful in the sight of God, as it is destructive to man ! There is a meanness attached to expression in the human countenance, arising from bodily pain ; and if subjects of this aifecting nature are represented with beauty and dignity^ we may well suppose that more temperate passions exhibit the greatest mild- tiess and benignity. It is this superiority of expres- sion, united to their correct knowledge of form, ana- tomy, and proportion, with a beautiful simplicity, which has raised the Grecian artists to their deserv- ed and enviable height, and in which excellencies they have never yet been equalled. It may be urged, that the dramatic art possesses greater powers over the mind, from characters be- ing represented by persons having speech and mo- tion. This, no doubt, has a powerful eiFect ; but how seldom do we see (excepting in satires on fan;iiliar life) the character in form stamped on the actor. Rarely do we see a king, never a hero in form and countenance, and gods are out of the question. Even Kemble and Kean, the greatest actors perhaps that our stage ever had to boast of, cannot get over this, as Nature has not given them a form equal to the characters they would represent. It has been observed, that deficiency of form is com- pensated by excellence of acting ; but this is rather acquiescing in what cannot be remedied, than esta- blishing the position that form is of no consequence. 12 What 1 have now said is not with a view to depre- ciate poetry, the dramatic art, or still less the merit of the actors ; for excellence in body as well as mind is hardly to be expected : but I am only speak- ing relatively to the great end of the imitative arts, the instruction and improvement of mankind ; and mean to infer, that the painter and sculptor, having the power to unite beauty of form with appropriate expression, although in inanimate representation, they carry the story they would tell, and the lesson they would impress, more home to the mind of the spectator. The Fine Arts being connected with and embra- cing every other art and science, the advantages de- rived from the study of them to every one may be fully exemplified. It will be found, that they who have a taste for the Fine Arts, have a taste for, and are often proficients in music, astronomy, poetry, optics, &c. ; consequently the cultivation of this taste leads them to universal knowledge. It is this which makes artists the companions of kings. Leo- nardo da Vinci died in the arms of Francis the First ; the Emperor Charles, in stooping to take up a brush which Titian let fall, declared that such merit as his was deserving of being waited on by emperors ; and our Harry the Eighth, gross as his education and despotic power had made him, exclaimed that out of seven peasants he could make as many lords, but not one Holbein. I mention these historical anec- dotes, in the hope that they may induce every one to strive and become acquainted with an art from 13 which such benefits are derived ; which tends more to the civilization of mankind, and to the improve- ment of the human mind, than any other. The principles of art are the principles of na- ture, and in the knowledge of them we are more capable of real enjoyment, and become consequent- ly more happy. It has been observed, that the great object of our endeavours in a world of trouble and inquietude should be to awaken those per- ceptions and those tastes, upon which the enjoy- ment of every kind of merit in art depends, and thus open to ourselves new avenues of pleasure ; and if every one possessed a fine feeling for the charms of painting, the sum of human happiness would be greatly increased. Let those pursuing the Fine Arts as a study, either professionally or for amusement, be assure(J that when they have attained a mechanical dexterity of hand ; when they have acquired a relish for the higher excellencies of art ; when they have become acquainted with all the brilliant examples that have preceded them ; when once they begin to converse and associate intimately, through the medium of their books, with all those noble beings who, from their intellectual exertions, have conferred honour on the human race, and benefited mankind ; and can transport themselves back to the ages in which they lived, to the spots where they have dwelt, and can enter into their ideas, — it is then that they will feel that they really live, and that their pre- vious life hag been but a state of negative existence 14 —and thus shall be given '' to corporeal essence life and sense, and every stately function of the soul." Having spoken thus far, I will now endeavour to show more particularly oa what the excellence of the Fine Arts depends. Correctness of form is the first thing we look for in a picture ; on that all its various excellencies are built, without that it is a nothing. It is to the painter and sculptor who represent bodies, what language is to the poet and historian who describe actions. Expression and a proper conception of character are the next requisites, and are insepara- bly connected with the preceding ones; for it is impossible to represent either without correctness of drawing. These, then, form the fundamental principles of art ; and if a picture possessing these qualities be deficient in every other requisite, it still ranks high as an intellectual production ; but with- out these, though glowing with the colouring of a Titian or a Rubens, united to the effect of a Rem- brandt, it can be termed merely a splendid piece of furniture, captivating the eye with the most vivid colours, but disgusting the mind by the most un- faithful forms. What has ranked Raffaelle as the prince of painters, but the sentiment and expression — those rays of intellect — which are displayed in all his works ? He has no gaudy colours, no brilhant effects to recommend his pictures, and yet every one possessing a refined mind allows him the pre- 15 eminence. Contrast his works with those of the Venetian school. Most of the pictures of Paul Veronese, and others of the same class, have neither sentiment, character, nor correctness of costume. Their subjects are in general monkish legends, which we neither know nor care to kno^v. When we look at these pictures, which display such extraordinary powers in composition, harmony of co- lour, aerial perspective, and execution, we cannot but regret, that men who were endowed with such talents, should have been led so far from the great end of art, as to have wasted their time in producing what can be considered by the general eye as merely pieces of furniture. It is to be recollected, that the arts were pa- tronised by the Roman Catholic clergy, by whom painting was made subservient to a divine purpose, the establishment of the Christian religion. But. unfortunately, good taste did not always direct them when they commanded the subjects for pictures : the painting of many of which, but for that circum stance, would not be creditable to the understand- ings of the artists. And thus was their time wasted, so far at least as regarded the exaltation of their own names as the instructors of mankind. To the artists who have followed them, they have been of the greatest service, not only in teaching them what to avoid, but also in leaving them almost per- fect examples of the minor requisites of a picture ; and they may, like the bee who sips from every flower, glean from each whatever may be necessary 16 to promote their own views \vith respect to the great end of art. In condemning this merely decorative style, I would ask, who is the better man from seeing pic- tures, which excite no other sensation than what a nosegay might produce, or any other gaudy assem- blage of colours ? What instructive lesson is con- veyed by countenances void of expression, drunken Bacchanals, sleeping nymphs, or flying Cupids, with which we see one half of our collections filled ? No wonder this divine art has been considered by the multitude as a mere mechanical employment, when its patrons have shown so little judgment, and its professors, who should uphold its dignity, and teach the world how to think, have betrayed so vile a taste. They may evince considerable talents in the arrangement and execution ; but they are nothing unless a story is told, and sentiment pre- vails. I will allude to two pictures of the Venetian school as examples of this style ; the one " the Marriage in Cana,"^ by Paul Veronese, displaying the most extraordinary assemblage of colour and composition that ever was combined in one picture, but destitute of expression, character, or correct- ness of costume. If it can be so called, the only expression to be found in this chef d'^ceiivre of Paul Veronese, is a man in the foreground, who is hold- ^ This picture is now exhibited in all its glory in tJie Louvre ;. it was exchanged by Austria for one of Lc Briui's. Oh ! for a mark that would denote a laugh of half an hour lone; ! 17 ing up his garment, which is red, to the master of the feast, signifying that the water was turned into wine — " The conscious water saw its God and blush'd." Christ and his mother, the principal characters in the story, are almost lost in the gay throng by which they are surrounded. This picture, in fact, was made subservient, not to religion, but to the vanity of the patrons of the artist, whose portraits are seen in connecting groups throughout. The other is a picture also of Paul Veronese, lately purchased by the British Institution. The subject is some such tale, and it is distinguished by possess- ing many of the minor requisites, and by the ab- sence of the higher excellencies before mentioned. How fir this picture is a proper study for youth, without previous knowledge, and without the guid- ance and control of superior minds, remains to be considered by the governors. But, in my humble opinion, to hold such pictures forward indiscrimi- nately, and without direction, for their contempla- tion, is like alluring them to the gayeties of the world, by which their taste becomes vitiated. It is this that has made the establishment of a school for painting in the Royal Academy, under the auspices of an Owen, a Phillips, and other distinguished members, so desirable a thing, and the accomplish- ing of which has been hailed with so much plea- sure. The ornaments and brilliancy of colour seen in 18 the Venetian pictures, as well as those of Rubens^ have led many astray, so far as to induce them to think, that to put a crown upon a man's head was to stamp him a king. But gods, kings, and heroes, should be known, not by their various attributes, but by the majesty, the dignity of form, and noble intrepidity, displayed in themselves. The coun- tenance should be made the index to the mind ; the form and action should correspond with the coun- tenance. Those, therefore, who denote kings only by their crowns, the number of their attendants, and the external symbols of greatness, are either ignorant of what constitutes true royalty, or, if acquainted with it, have not the power to ex- press it. Here I cannot help remarking, and condemning those persons who aim at what the natural bias of their minds, and consequently their course of study, does not fit them for. However we may admire the versatility of a man's talent, he, in the end, does himself an injury by attempting too much. Teniers and Hogarth, each admirable in the familiar depart- ment of art, in portraying the common occurrences of vulgar life, made their essay in the historic walk, and, as might be expected, failed. Others, since them, have done the same, and, like them, have been disappointed. As well might a man, always accustomed to vulgar company, attempt to move in the highest sphere of life with the ease and grace which distinguish it. An epic painter, like an epic poet, will dignify the meanest subject j a painter of 19 familiar life will degrade the highest. Raffaelie would make a beggar a king. Teniers, in his en- deavour to produce a king, would not raise him above individuality. This is, perhaps, one of the greatest difficulties of the art, to stamp the character of superiority on the person represented ; to have it in your power to say, the moment you cast your eye on a picture, " that is a lady, a nobleman, a king, a hero, or a god." Among the moderns, Reynolds evinced this power in his portraits : all his men and women have an air of superiority. If I were inclined to assimilate the English school to any other, it would be to that of Correggio. But the present French and Italian schools are unlike any that have preceded them, and, I hope, any that may follow. They can only be compared with themselves. They have this merit, that their style and taste are completely their own, and as far removed from nature as it is possible to be. Instead of painting man in the abstract, their characters are of a particular kind, and what is commonly termed Frepch ; and their expression is usually exaggerat- ed. With the good composition which some of their pictures possess, much might be allowed ; but that their colouring is vile, and their execution in ge- neral miserable. When we look at their portraits, whether in the Salle des Marechals or at their own houses — either at Paris or at Rome, they remind one of the lines of Peter Pindar : — 20 In portrait they're as much alone As was in landscape the unrivaU'd Claude Of pictures I have seen enough ! Most vile. ?iiost execrable stuft*! But none so bad as theirs, I vow to God. Or, When it shall so please the Lord To make his people out of board, Their pictures will be tolerable nature. The best picture that has appeared in the mo- dern French school, is the battle of Austerhtz, by- Gerard. To be sure, in the hero of that event was a subject to inspire any one. It was finely com- posed, and had a proper attention to character and detail ; but its greatest fault was a want of the breadth of nature, which distinguishes the produc- ^tions of the English school. This picture, that semi-barbarian Blucher wished to destroy. It is however, no longer seen, having been removed from the place which it occupied, in the room ad- joining the chapel in the Thuilleries. I have before observed, that the improved state of the arts in England is owing to the exertions of the artists them3':;lves ; and when contrasted with their state in France and Italy, where immense sums have been expende^l to forward and support them, it only shows the futility of all particular patronage. It is out of the power of any individual, or set of in- dividualsj to create genius, or to give full effect to 21 Us exertions when discovered. The public at large are the only real patrons. As it is the improved state of public feeling which will guide our politics into the right path, so we niust look forward to the improvement of the public mind, to protect, encou- rage, advance, and support the Fine Arts. By depending on the public alone, every man will rise and fall according to his own merit, and at any rate will escape the degradation of having his more correct notions of things opposed, and his exertions almost paralyzed, by the opinions of the half inform- ed.* How many of elevated genius have suffered this affliction ! The friendship of a distinguished indi- vidual to a young man may not only be necessary, but of infinite importance to his future exertions ; but it is on the judgment of the public that he must build his hopes ; and we may now congratulate ourselves, that England can no longer be reproached by foreigners for frigidity of temper, as far as regards the arts ; for its school has become the first of the present day. To assist to give the Fine Arts that elevation in Britain which they are destined to fiil, and which they have occupied in the most refined ages of the world ; to disseminate opinions arising from true feeling, thus engrafting on the public a knowledge of their importance, should be the aim, not only of ^ The difference between the judgment of an artist and an amateur, will be seen in the examination before the committee of the House of Commons. Vide report on the Elgin marbles. the professors, but of every enlightened mind ; and posterity will only regard us as so many degrees from barbarism, according to the rank the imitative arts take. The introduction of the Elgin marbles in England, has given new^ life to the admirers of arts and lovers of excellence. In them is seen the essence of a style, simple, natural, and grand. As revolution is the order of the day, they have already produced a revolution in art, and will produce another in the na- tional taste. They are models for our imitation su- perior to an}^ that Italy or France possesses. Not only are they proper for the contemplation of the artist, but they cannot be too much visited by the public at large, as they are such examples as no one can look upon with attention, without retiring from the examination with improved ideas of what is truly beautiful. The British Museum, where they are deposited, should be the constant resort of the Bri- tish fair. Although our countrywomen are superior to the women on the continent, and I may, perhaps, say, to any in the world, yet we should, to the last moment of our lives, keep up a settled intercourse with what is excellent. Let them therefore but re- gard, with an attentive eye, the Frieze which once adorned the temple of Minerva at Athens, and they will receive a better lesson in simplicity and elegance of demeanour, than they ever learned from those attitudinarians, the dancing masters. Let them there study grace in the disposition of their drapery, and reject the capricious freaks of their milliners. Fa« sliion is the daughter of elegance and modesty, while caprice is the offspring of extravagance and folly. It is impossible to find a fault in the whole frieze, the figures throughout being models of loveliness. How much ought the government to congratulate itself, that in the time of its existence, such a valuable ad- dition to the real treasures of the country has been made. It is certainly a new era in the career of ministers ; and no doubt will, from the eclat it has given them, impress them with the necessity of bet- ter consulting the glory of Great Britain, by as stre- nuously cultivating the arts of peace, "as they have hitherto promoted those of war. With respect to public establishments for the study and promotion of the Fine Arts, it is of no use form- ing them, unless they are guided and superintended by eminent professors. Hence arises the superiority of the Royal Academy. The discriminating powers of its members, the good advice and liberal encou- ragement given to junior talent, are not the least of the advantages which the students derive from that institution ; besides that they have it always in their power to refer to judgments on which they can de- pend. The Royal Academy was founded by our King, who in this act evinced his love and desire for the welfare of the state. The infant establishment was soon after left to its fate, and the abilities of its mem- bers have raised it to its present height ; thus open- ing the eyes of the public as to British talent, v-^^ rendering the institution worthy of their patr'^*"*^g<^- 24 From this, all other similar establishments have ema- nated, and have succeeded more or less, according to their management. The British Gallery, another institution for pro- moting art in London, has somewhat disappointed the hopes of the public, from its management being too much left in the hands of servants. As might be ex- pected, the hopes and feelings of the artists have been trifled with, favouritism has crept in, and it has been necessary to use interest and conciliate menials, an abasement to which superior minds could not sub- mit. Hence have the works of some of our best art- ists been banished from the walls of that exhibition, which is the real cause of its displaying less talent than formerly, and not that the Fine Arts have de- clined. The noble directors may be assured, that when they take the management on themselves, or will appoint men of talent who will be unswayed by prejudice, possessing discriminating powers, and otherwise capable of the task, this will not be the case. With respect to the general instruction of the Fine Arts, as far as regards the public at large, as it is practised in our seminaries, or in private teaching, the prevailing system has been bad. Unfortunately, it has not been made worthy of the attention of men of talent : hence this branch of the art has been left to pretenders, and consequently the public have not been properly imbued, either with the principles or *he advantages to be derived from their study. I i^a^- here be allowed to observe, that teachers of 2o every denomination have too often to combat with the ignorance or impatience of parents, which is another reason that makes persons of talent dishke to engage in the occupation. We do not pay that respect which we ought to those to whom we would intrust the education of our children ; and hence it often hap- pens that those who are the least fit for the task be- come installed in the oiSce. To go a step farther from our subject^ — how many young women of su- perior education, governesses in private families, are there, who are looked upon by their employers almost as servants? — And is it to servants that we leave the instilling of virtue and knowledge into our children ? The general system of the education of ^'^outh wants revising. The reader will pardon this digression, though somewhat allied to the subject. To enter into a further comparison of the present French and Italian schools of painting with that of the British, the latter being so decidedly pre-emi- nent, would be invidious ; and there are none, I hope, who will condemn my selecting a few names from among its distinguished professors, as examples ; or who, having visited the continent, will not agree with me, when I say, that there is no living artist in France? or Italy, whose works show the variety and truth of character and expression, vigour of execution, and knowledge of the art, displayed in those of our vene- rable President West ; who has the angelic grace and Raffaelle style of Stothard ; the delicate and beau- tifully poetic feeling of Howard ; the colouring of Phillips^ the extraordinary powers of Turner; the 26 energy — the fire of Fuzeli ; or who can at all aspire to the tasteful magnificence of Lawrence. I again repeat, the English school is superior, in every branch of the Fine Arts, to any now in existence, and that it has all the sterling requisites to make it really great. With the cartoons of Raffaelle, and the Elgia marbles, we may defy the world, having in them eve- ry thing necessary for the formation of our taste, and for the correction of our judgment. A JOURNEY TO HOME AJVn JVAPLES^ IN 1817. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION. When a person sets out to travel, he should en- deavour to devest himself of all prejudice, that he may relate what he sees vi^ith impartiality. Such, however, is the force of habit, that few are able to overcome their early predilections for the customs and manners of their own country, and their dislike of that which is foreign. Ignorance, in this respect, too often presides at our education. We have been taught to look upon foreigners, and Frenchmen in particular, with the utmost contempt ; we have been told that they live upon frogs, an animal that most English are afraid of; and the whole nation has been degraded, in our eyes, to something below the hu- man species. Other nations on the continent have been joined in this general odium, until at length ma- ny have fancied that ail was barbarous beyond our own shores. Bat let us hope that the time is not far j which a room is to be heated, or a dinner cooked by a sheet of brown paper ; shallow grates ; ricketty chairs ; all spring from this love of small things, that our rooms may look neat. The blazing hearth, that used to enliven our farm-houses, is filled up, and a small nea^ stove, with a small neat fire, appears in its place. Our clothes even are made so neat and scanty, as hardly to cover us ; inflicting, at the same time, no small portion of torture ; while we must be careful how we stoop or stride, lest some part of them should burst. In fact, this rage for neatness de- stroys solidity and propriety, renders our conveni- ences for travelling any thing but convenient, and tends to rob our persons and our firesides of that comfort of which we boast so much. Since the late intercourse with France, when such crowds of our countrymen have landed on her '^ Our ancestors were much more generous than ourselves, they built for posterity: we raise our buildings hardly to lastoui: nvn lifetime. 44 shores, their impatience of delay has induced the proprietors of the coaches to make arrangements in the Imperial to carry six persons, which, in fine weather, is far from being unpleasant. Novelty first induced us to select, and necessity afterwards ob- liged us to continue in this place. Our progress was slow, but agreeably enlivened by a Frenchman, who warbled some favourite, airs with much taste and feeling. The lower classes in France are greatly superior to those in England, while the higher are much inferior. The slavish attendance exacted from them by an arbitrary, superstitious, and bigot* ed Court, by damping the energies of the mind, pro- duces, perhaps, this inferiority. This despotism extends, and is felt, universally. Such is the influ- ence of the crown, and patronage of the ministry, that to get the lowest situation in a common coach- office, it is first necessary to be a courtier, and have what is termed the influence of government, which, of course, is obtained by fawning. This monopoly of patronage is, probably, the cause of one govern- ment so easily succeeding another in France ; as its effects are seen, through all its connecting links, down to the smallest village. The road to Rouen is straight, broad, and paved in the centre ; and on each side are planted apple and pear trees. At Rouen there is a bridge of boats, well paved with stones, which rises and falls with the tide. The front of the cathedral is beau- tifully carved. It has its musee ; and there Is a 45 statae of the celebrated Joan of Arc, la pucelle d'' Orleans. In going out of Rouen, we ascended a hill, from the top of which there is a fine view. We then proceeded with a rapidity that was delightful, hav- ing seven horses galloping in the most irregular and laughable manner. The reins, which are very long, allowing the horses to range the road almost at pleasure ; their curvettings, neighings, prancings, and gallopings ; the harness with which they are encumbered, and the tackle by which they are united to the vehicle, are all calculated to excite laughter ; w^hile the ease and skill which the pos- tillion displays in their management, and the nicety with which he guides the carriage through the nar- rowest passes, such as the drawbridges and gates of fortified towns, equally excite admiration. As it is customary in France to kiss both men and women, a gentleman paying that compliment to a young woman who belonged to an inn on the road, the husband stepped forward, and pulling off his hat, thanked him for the honour he had done him. — This is but the habit of the country, and many idle tales, I believe, arise from it ; but it is ridiculous to suppose, that the French women are not as vir- tuous as their neighbours. Before we entered Pontoise, twenty-four miles from Paris, we saw the gilded dome of the Invalids shining in the sun. The French of the present day are, generally speaking, a fine race of men. Those who form their notions of them from theatrical representa- 46 tion, will find themselves deceived. They are not the starvelings represented to us. The Revolu- tion, no doubt, has done much to effect this, by mixing the different ranks of society. What might have been their character formerly, I know not ; but when we look round at their theatres, and con- trast the shrivelled forms and visages of the re- turned emigrants peeping from their solitary holes, dressed in the costume of the old court, their hair frizzled and powdered, with the offspring of the Revolution displaying their Brutus fronts, we may infer, that the character which has usually been given, may have had some foundation. The French are not such travellers as the English ; at least, not many have visited us, if we except the emigrant nobility, a class who are not the best specimens of any country in the present day ; and of course it is unjust to draw a conclusion from them, as to the general character of the existing race in France. For my own part, I never saw a pretty French wo- man before I visited their country, where I found them all, young and old, highly interesting. 47 CHAPTER III. PARIS AND LYONS. Paris has been so often seen, and so often de« scribed, of late, that little novelty could now be presented upon that subject. Something, indeed, might probably be done to remove those unfavoura- ble impressions which many recent publications, by prejudiced persons, have excited in the public mind ; but, perhaps, it is better that every one should judge for himself, only reminding travellers that their reception in France depends entirely on themselves. There is a coldnes and hauteur in the English character, which produce a disposition the very contrary to sociability ; and, I fear this is too often manifested by my countrymen when travel- ling. They betray, likewise, an indifference bor- dering on contempt for every thing French, toge- ther with the most fastidious caprice in all that re- gards their food and dress : indeed, in the latter particular, the French and English seem to have exchanged characters. The French, naturally live- ly, shrink from that appalling demeanour too often assumed by the untravelled English ;* or turn into * This reserve is sufficiently obvious at home ; if, for exam- ple, a stranger address us at any public place, we are disposed almost to consider him as a sharper or a pickpocket, and re- 48 ridicule their distant carriage, stiff joints, and awk- ward airs. This want of poUsh, which an inter- course with the world would give ; as also, of a little practical philosophy, to enable them to bear the inconveniences of travelling, are the origin, I am convinced, of all the complaints, real and ima- ginary, of the English who return from France. There is no modern city that can boast of such a succession of magnificent places as Paris. Begin- ning with the Palais Royale, you cross the Rue St. Honore to the Palais des Arts et des Sciences; whence, you pass through the Place de Carousel, to the Triumphal Arch of Buonaparte, on which were placed the bronze horses now at Venice. Go- ing through the centre of the Thuilleries, you enter tipon the gardens, adorned with statues, fountains, walks, &c. On the right of the gardens is the Place Vendome, with the Column Napoleon ; on the left the Seine, whose stream flows slowly on, hngering as if it regretted leaving so delightful a place. Still advancing, you arrive at the Place de la Concorde ; a magnificent range of buildings is seen on the right ; the Champs Eiysees in front, and on the left the fine Pont de la Concorde. Crossing the bridge, you find yourself opposite the beautiful palace of the Corps Legislatif, behind which is PHopital des In- luctantly answer his questions. 1 do not speak this of all, but of many. On the contrary, at any of the French theatres, a person so accosted, replies with the most becoming readiness, and gives every information desired. 49 talids, and near it TEcole Militaire. The next grand object which presents itself is the Champ de Mars, at the further end of which is the classical Pont de Jena. On the opposite side was to have been the Palace of the King of Rome, for which an immense space had been cleared ; nothing, however, except the foundation, is visible. All these places form an unbroken scene of magnificence and gran- deur. Distributed about the Fauxbourgs St. Ger- main and St. Margeau, are other objects equally in- teresting. Such are the Musee des Petits Augustins, Luxembourgh Palace and gardens, St. Sulspice, the noble and elegant pile of the Pantheon, the Cata- combs, the Observatory, the Gobelin tapestry, and the Jardin des Plantes. Crossing the iron bridge of Austerlitz, you arrive at the foundations of the Hall of Abundance, begun by the order of Napoleon, but now left to decay, like many other fine works which were in progress when the Bourbons returned. Proceeding by the fossee of the Bastile to the fountain of the Elephant, likewise unfinished, you arrive at the beautiful fountain of the Lions, and the best part of the Boulevards. Such a succession of pleasing objects, united to the civiUty with which you are received, the pre- vailing urbanity and politeness of the inhabitants, the music and singing which charm your ear, the drol- lery of the grimaciers and mountebanks, which irre- sistibly excite you to laughter, the bustle, the activi- ty, and the vivacity seen around, all conspire to 5 50 create that feeling of delight and ecstasy which is seldom felt in our own country. The comforts, which attend the v/alks of the sensuahst, are great. If he be warm, he can retire to a delightful shade ; and command ices, lemonade, and punch of the most delicious kinds. If he be hungry, the most luxuri- ously cooked meats await his order : amusements of all kinds surround him ; and almost every wish his heart can form, is within his reach. Such is Paris for the common visiter. But it has far superior en- joyments for superior minds : it is rich in the arts and sciences ; and so liberal in the distribution of the benetits arising from them, that ever}^ person, from the highest to the lowest, v/ho has a soul to enjoy intellectual pleasures, may derive advantage from these well arranged institutions. How vv^orthy would this be of our imitation! The best views of Paris are from the top of Notre Dame, and the Column Na- poleon ; and the most picturesque and novel view to an English eye, in Paris, is from the Pont des Arts, looking towards the Pont Neuf. Persons have spo- ken much of the demoralization, as it is called, of the French since the revolution, and v/hich they at- tribute to a disregard for religion, as increased by that memorable event. In answer to this accusa- tion, I quote the follovi^ing authentic paper, being a license granted to Poulthier d'Elmotu by the Sieur le Noir, intendant of the police of the press, under the old Bourbon government. " I permit you to write against the Deity, but not against Monsieur de Man- 51 repas ;"^ against religion, but not against government; against the apostles, but not against ministers ; , against the saints, but not against the ladies of the court ; against morals, but not against the po- lice." In going from Paris to Lyons, we went out through the Fauxbourg St. Marceau, and the Barriere d'lta- lie, by which Rousseau made his first entry into Paris ; and when that impression was received, which was never effaced but with his life. The country, on the other side of Paris, is much superior to that between the coast and the capital, and to the traveller much more interesting. There are more visible signs of population ; chateaux and cottages are continually seen, although it cannot boast of that succession of villas which we see in England. The land appears every where richly cultivated ; the roads are broad and good, and for the most part paved * Maurepas was born in 1701. He was banished the French court in 1749, but was recalled in 1774, by Louis XVI. and died in 1781. He is described, by his biographer, as a states- man of profound knowledge, and great liberality. He had all the careless vivacity of his country. When exiled to Bour- ges, by the intrigues of a lady very powerful at court, he thus described his feelings : <^ The first day," said he, ^' I was piqued; the second, I was contented.'' As a minister, his views of objects were rapid and decisive ; but in recommend- ing the conduct which France pursued towards this country, when at war with her colonies, it has been thought he laid the foundation for the overthrow of flie French mo- narch v. 52 in the centre. The forest of Fontainbieau is beau- tiful, extensive, and grand. We passed through Montargis and Moulins, and at the latter place thought of Sterne's Maria. When resting at a small town, we were asked by some of the inhabitants, if we had any cities in Eng- land as large ; and pointing to a small eathedral, they demanded if it was not superb ? The French have certainly a very high idea of whatever is in their own country, often attaching infinite consequence to things of little or no importance. They have, how- ever, much to be proud of; and whether contem- plating the country, their cities, their buildings, or their monuments, a stranger finds himself continu- ally repeating the word magnificent. In going from Paris to Lyons by this route, we tii'avel for many miles on the banks of the Loire, and pass in sight of the place where the army retired on the abdication of Buonaparte. As an impartial relater, I cannot help here noticing the enthusiasm that seemed every where to prevail in favour of Napoleon : with whomsoever w^e conversed, he appeared to be idolized. In the Diligence there were two ladies and three gentlemen, all French. As we were on the same road by which he made his triumphal entry into France, on his return from Elba, the conver- sation naturally turned on the emperor : when ex- pressing my sentiments of him, happening to say something in his favour, the animation which sparkled in every eye ; the exclamations, accom- j)anied by that liveliness of gesticulation peculiar to the French ; the fervour with which they grasped my hand, spoke volumes. Indeed, it was every where the same ; on passing by one of the buildings in Paris, where workmen were employed to erase the effigies of Napoleon, a man exclaimed, '' Ah! they may blot out his emblems, but they cannot erase him from our hearts." Again, when I inquired why the Halle d'Abondance, which Napoleon began, was left unfinished, it was emphatically observed, that every thing was at a stand since the Bourbons had returned. About a day's journey from Lyons, we ascended some high hills, or rather mountains, which defend that city from the cold winds of the north ; and from which we had the most delightful, the most exten- sive, and the most varied prospect. Hills, valleys, pasturage, vineyards, blended with each other, and formed a continued scene of richness and beauty. A young woman was introduced to us at one of the inns, who, when Buonaparte passed that way from Elba, and wanted a postilion, offered her services, and guided him safe to the next post. He after- wards allowed her a pension. Whether they thought to tease us, as the English are supposed to have an inveterate hatred of Buonaparte, I know not ; but they appeared to delight in calling our attention to any thing that related to him, and seemed never weary of eulogizing him. The reason which induced me not to enter into a detail of Paris, does not extend to Lyons ; for as the journey of the greater part of the visiters to the 54 continent terminates at the former city, we have few or no descriptions of the latter. As the second city of France, however, as a place always celebrated for its commerce ; as a distinguished Roman co- lony, honoured by, and honouring, Augustus, adorn- ed by Mark Antony, Agrippa, Trajan, and after be- ing destroyed by fire, rebuilt at the instigation of Seneca ; distinguished as the birth-place of the Em- perors Marcus Aurelius, Caracalla, and Claudius ; of Germanicus ; of Philibert de I'Orme and Saufflot, architects of the Thuilleries and the Pantheon ; of Audran the celebrated engraver ; and of many others equally famous in painting, sculpture, poetry, physic, astronomy, &c.; as also from the beauty of its situation and surrounding scenery, it well deserves some record in a traveller's journal. This city is supposed to have been founded about forty years before the Christian era. It was built some time after the death of Julius Caesar by Lucius Munatius Plaucus, from whose name was derived Lucii Dunum, by abbreviation, Luc Dunum, since Lugdunum, and now Lyons. In the year of Rome 740, sixty cities of Gaul raised, at their joint expense, a temple to Augustus. This temple, ten years after its erection, became the seat of the sciences. Caligula established an academy or lyceum of eloquence. The contests were in Greek and Latin, under the regulation of a law, that any poet or orator who entered the list and was vanquished, should give a recompense to the conqueror, and ^make a panegyric on him. There 55 was also another law established, which evinced the ferocious caprice of the founder ; that those who were imprudent enough to present a bad work, should be constrained to efface the whole with their tongue ; and if they refused, they were to be pre- cipitated into the Saone. L'Eglise d'Aynai has four pillars which formerly belonged to this temple ; they were twenty-six feet in height, and each sup- ported a figure of Victory. A hundred years after the foundation of Lyons, when that city, em- beUished by an infinite number of buildings, dis- puted the palm with the most flourishing cities of Gaul, an incendiary who wished to attribute it to the fire of Heaven, reduced it to ashes. Seneca, who energetically described this conflagration, said, *' Between the existence of a considerable city, and its annihilation, there had been but the space of one night." Soon after, at his solicitation, Lyons, like a phoenix, rose from its ashes. Lyons is most beautifully picturesque : seated be- tween the Rhone and the Saone, whose streams unite about half a mile below the town, in the 45th degree of latitude, and defended by the hills on the north, it experiences neither the excessive cold nor heat of other places. Hills spring from the other side of the Saone, on which houses and chateaux are built, ornamenting their sides to the top, and giving richness and magnificence to the scene. The principal one is called the Montagne de Four- vieres, upon which is the Hospice de I'Antiquaille, built on the ruins of a palace where Antonia was de- 56 livered of Germanicus. It was upon this hill that Trajan constructed a magnificent edifice, comprising the markets, fairs, and tribunals of justice. This building, which fell in 840, was called Forum Vetus, afterwards Fort Viel, and then Fourvieres, the name it bears at present. An infinite number of antiques of all kinds have been found there ; among them are two tablets of bronze, on which is engraved a considerable part of the harangue delivered by the Emperor Claudius, when he was censor, to the se- nate of Rome, to induce them to declare Lyons, his native place, a Roman colony. From the chapel of Notre Dame there is an ex- tensive and delightful view over the country. The grounds which encircle the city are laid out in gar- dens for ornament and use, interspersed with innume- rable chateaux, hills, rivulets, and ruins : many of the latter are very ancient. The course of the Rhone is very vehement. Caesar mentions the " rapid Rhone." This gives it rather a dreariness of aspect, there being no boats for pleasure, &c. seen moving on it. However, it well contrasts with the bustle of the city. The quays are broad, and add much to the beauty of the scene. The Hotel de Ville is considered the finest in Europe, except- ing that of Amsterdam : the cathedral of St. Jean is magnificent. We attended a display, on Sunday, of the military, the band playing in the centre of the church : this had a grand effect. There are some very fine windows of stained glass, which shed their solemn light, enriching every object with a 57 crimson tone. There are some modern pillars near the altar, which have bronze ornaments and capitals. The Hotel Dieu, like its namesake in Paris, is for the reception of sick persons. The Library is on the banks of the Rhone, and contains about 4000 books. Here are some folio volumes with representations of Thebes in Egypt, made by the Sgavans who accompanied Buonaparte ; also a bronze bust of Voltaire, crowned with bays. From the balcony is seen Mont Blanc and the Alps. The Musee is situated in the place of the Hotel de Ville: the pictures are mostly copies. There is a model in cork of a temple at Pompeii, and a number of antiques ; the leg of a mummy, an ibis, &c. : there is also a very clever little picture by a Lyon- ese, a boy preparing colour for his master, almost equal to Gerard Dow. The theatres are good ; that of Celestines pretty and well formed. The parterre, or pit, is the same as in the old theatres, having no seats, and used for the reception of the lower classes. Shakspeare alludes to this custom in Hamlet's address to the players : ''Oh, it offends me to the soul to hear a robustious periwig-pated fellow tear a passion to tatters, to very rags, to split the ears of the ground- lings, who, for the most part, are capable of nothing but inexplicable dumb show and noise." Many of the French provincial theatres are the same. — There is an excellent establishment for learning to swim, on the Saone, where there are men employed 58 to give proper instructions. The warm baths are luxurious, and the charge but a franc and a half. La Place Belle Cour is a fine square. It is said that there was here, near to the Temple of Augus- tus, a celebrated tribunal, called Curia ; and, from the beauty of its local situation and the splendour of the edifice, they gave this court the appellation of Bella Curia, hence Belle Cour. Near this place is the street called Belle Cordiere, thus named, because there dwelt in the 16th century, Louise I'Abbe, the wife of a rope-merchant, a woman then celebrated for her personal attractions, her wit, her talents, her gallantries, and her adventures. Her house was frequented by all the persons of quality and merit in Lyons. All the princes and generals who passed through the city were curious to see her. There are still extant her first poems. She was full of fire, wit, and delicacy. Her dialogue in prose, entitled Dcbats de folie et d^amour, is a most ingenious allegory. Nicerne said of this lady, that she professed to be a courtesan, and would be paid for her favours ; but that having a regard for mea of genius, she would always receive them as friends, " Demosthenes,'' continues he, " had been very happy if the courtesan Lais had resembled her ; he would not then have made a useless journey to Corinth." There is another lady whom the Lyon- ese boast of being born in their city, Clemence de Bourges, surnamed La perle des demoiselles Lyon- iiaisesy who died of grief for the loss of her lover. 59 Some fine bridges have been built by order of Napoleon, displa3^ing much simplicity and elegance of structure. The city is commanded by two mountains, that of Fourvieres, on which, when first founded, it was built ; and that of St. Sebastian, which rises like an amphitheatre between the Saone and the Rhone. The women are in general well looking, but many of them have large throats.-— This peculiarit}^, as we approach the Alps, be- comes a dreadful disease. The beer of Lyons is very celebrated ; but, although the best we had tasted in France, we found it much inferior to what we have in England. French beer has, invariably, a smoky taste. The manufactures of Lyons consist chiefly of clothes of gold, silver, and silk, which are brought to such perfection, as to excite the ad- miration of strangers. These form the first class. Galloons, ribands, and lace, take the second ; and the hosiers, hatters, and booksellers, are reckoned in the third. To these are added the workers of gold thread, silk weavers, diers, &c. occupying altogether about 20,000 persons. * The whole po- pulation is reckoned at 150,000. The charms which nature has spread with profu- sion over the territory of Lyons, united to the en- gaging manners of its inhabitants, render it doubly attractive. Fully justified was the enthusiasm of a distinguished poet, who still admired it on his return from Italy. After having seen the alluring delights of the Tiber, and the majestic beauties of Rome, he exclaimed : 60 ■^' En fin, je vous revois, o ma chere patrie, Lyon, temple sacre des arts, de i'industrie : Que mon ame est emue en parcourant desyeux Ces plainesj res coteaux heureux, Ces remparts, ce vaste rivage, Ces fleuves amans de ces bords : Qui de les embellir disputant I'avantage, Confondent a I'envi leurs flots et leurs transports." Voltaire has also addressed some lines to the inhabit- ants of this city. To reside here, in such a climate, surrounded by all the attractions of nature, united with the comforts of civilization, every object tending to produce that harmony of soul so much wished for — more could not be desired. But 1 doubt whether this would not be called voluptuousness ; and having greater objects in rieWj I must hasten on. 61 CHAPTER IV, CROSSING THE ALPS* ^' We proceeded from Lyons to Turin. As we ad- vanced, the houses had the appearance of those we see in the Italian landscapes, having broad projecting roofs, and many are built like square towers. About four o'clock in the morning, we entered Tour du Pin* The market was crowded with people, selling butter and cheese. Leaving this place, the mountains of Sa- voy broke upon our view, interspersed with clouds. We soon after arrived at Pont Beauvoisin, where we were detained a long time by the Douanieres, this being the entrance to. the Sardinian dominions. An obvious change in the character of the people may here be observed. From Pont Beauvoisin we began to ascend the mountains, surrounded by every beauty of vegetation. The vineyards were luxuri- ant ; and we refreshed ourselves, in passing, with the fruit which oifered, such as walnuts, apples, pears, and plums. Those who are fond of the terri- fic beauties of nature, may here enjoy themselves ; and to the stranger, who has never before approach- ed the Alps, the lofty ridges of Savoy present a grand and novel sight. On entering the first de- file, the rocks above, the precipices below, the woods, the cascades, and the torrents form a coup d'ml gratifying in the extreme. The broken cliffs 62 appear as if rent asunder by some mighty convulsion of nature. Passing onwards, we entered the de- lightful valley of Echelles, in the midst of which rises the pretty village of that name ; the beauty of the scene it is impossible to describe. We now ap- proached a prodigious work, said to have been be- gun by Csesar, but executed principally by the order of Charles II. Duke of Savoy, in 1760. It is called the Grotto, and is a passage cut through the moun- tain to the length of five thousand yards, and in per- pendicular height above one hundred feet. It is suf- ficiently wide for two carriages to pass, and of gra- dual ascent. We viewed, with astonishment, the masses of rock which had been cut through. About halfway, there is a fine work of modern times. It is a complete tunnel, running in another direction, one thousand feet long and thirty-six feet high, cut by the order of Buonaparte for the convenient con- veyance of cattle. Workmen were employed night and day, for six years, in completing it. These rocks spoke praises of Napoleon ; and indeed I may ob- serve, that in the course of our journey, whatever we met with which was admirable, well contrived, or well regulated, it was Buonaparte's, and the Empe- ror was continually mentioned by the inhabitants. On leaving this pass, the mountains increase in height and the air becomes ct)ld ; but as we ap- proached Chambery it was milder. We passed a fine cascade, which falls one hundred and twenty feet. The country surrounding Chambery is very fertile and well cultivated. The great quantity (\f (33 mulberry trees remuitls the traveller of the nirmber of silk-worms with which Savoy abounds. They, however, who exjject to see mulberries on the trees, will be disappointed, as they are cultivated onl}^ for the leaves ; and what will appear very sin- gular is, that a mulberry is rarely seen in these parts. From Chambery we passed to Mount Melian. The citadel is seen upon an eminence. We crossed the Isere, a rapid river, «nd then had the first sight of the snow-decked cliffs. On this side of Aiguibelle, the Arc joins the Isere, Aiguibelle is a village well situated. Near it are the ruins of a church and some houses which were destoyed by a sudden fall- ing of the earth and rocks from the top of the moun- tain. These accidents frequentlj^ occur in the Mau- rienne, where the snows accumulate, and the moun- tains being very high, while the valleys are narrow. The inhabitants are small in stature, and afflicted with goitres, which render them very deformed. The goitres are swellings in the neck, and in some are so large, that they hang upon their chest. Idiotism is also part of the disease. It is thought to be occasioned hy drinking the snow-water. In many parts are ruins of fortifications. After pass- ing La Chapelie, we walked a considerable way over a new road that was begun by Buonaparte, avoiding the old one, which, from its situation, was subject to avalanches. The awfulness and grandeur of the sur- rounding scenery were delightful, and there was no- thing to interrupt our thoughts but the roaring^of thi?- Arc. 64 St. Jean de Maurlenne is situated in the midst of* th^ highest Alps. From hence to Lanslebourg the road ascends continually, and the air becomes very cold. At St. Michel's, where we slept, the roar of waters lulled us to rest. Mount Cenis is forty miles from this place, the road being bordered on one side by mountains, and on the other by a torrent. In winter and during the melting of the snows, aval- anches arc greatly to be feared. Leaving JSt. Michel, tve continued on the banks of the river, which was more rapid as we advanced, and became at last a rushing torrent, the spray splashing in our faces. Here and there w^erc seen immense masses of rock opposing themselves ineffectually to the stream, whose velocity, increased by opposition, exhibited one continued foam. Mountains covered with snow, or whose heads v/ere lost in the clouds, rise on all sides, and display every fancied form ; while cas- cades, issuing from innumerable apertures, add to the bulk of the waters. We walked for many miles by the side of the torrent, alternately descending precipices or climbing the ragged cliffs, to enjoy different points of view. The road is excellent, and has a gentle ascent. The mountains, with few ex- ceptions, appear to be well cultivated, even to their summits. Near Lanslebourg the scenery is more wild, and the air more keen and bleak. The wo- men of Savoy are generally pretty, and have a sim- plicity of air and manner that is very pleasing. The chamois or goats are very common. From St. Andre to Bramante we saw the highest 65 summit of the Alps. The most elevated of all is Hount Blanc, being 15,662 feet. After passing Lanslebourg, we began to ascend Mount Cenis, and entered upon the road formed by the late Emperor. The genius of Napoleon seems to have inspired and produced superhuman efforts. Wherever his hand is seen, or his mind is concerned, we are astonished at the grandeur and prodigious magnitude of his ideas. The Alps, whose territic image has for ages excited the dread of man, have fallen before his power : no longer dressed in their former character, but covered with vegetation, they excite nothing but the most agreeable sensations. He has cut through some mountains, overturned others, filled up precipices, turned the course of torrents, form- ed bridges, and made roads of the most gentle ascent, which avoid all former dangers and inconveniences. On them the traveller moves with ease and delight, and hospitality every where prevails. Although he has been our enemy, every one in passing the Alps must think as 1 do, and will almost have a feeling of gratitude towards him, if they would honestly ex- press it ; for in these wonderful works, as in many others, he has been a benefit to the human race. In our approach to Mount Cenis, we sometimes ascended very high, while the mountains appeared still higher, and the torrent seemed lost in abysses below ; however, we gradually attained the top. There had been a heavy storm the preceding night, -and a great fall of snow, which covered the sur- m rounding summits.* Every one will be lost in ad- miration on seeing this grand road, winding up the side of the mountain in a serpentine line of a most easy ascent, flanked with stone and defended by posts and parapets. Twenty-eight houses are placed at certain distances by order of Buonaparte, to suc- <^our the distressed in case of need. Fires, beds, &c. are provided, together w^ith every necessary. The old route is still seen, and miserable it must have been to those who were obliged to pass by it. On the top of Mount Cenis, is a plain six miles long, covered with verdure ; and affording pasturage to cows, goats, and sheep. In the centre is a lake, two miles in diameter, which produces excellent trout. The post-house and an auberge are situated about the centre, as likewise a barrack ; and a little liigher is an hospice, built by order of the late Em- peror of the French, similar to that of Great St^ Bernard. We suffered much pain in our extremities from the cold. From the highest of these moun- tains, the plains of Piedmont are seen ; and from this spot, it is said, Hannibal showed his soldiers the fme country they were going to conquer. Mount Cenis, at the post, is 6251 feet above the level of the sea. The highest point is 9261 feet, an4 at the Grand Cross on the side of Italy 6022 feet. Natu- ralists will find much that is worthy of their atten- tion on Mount Cenis ; and in the various phenomena which present themselves* M. De Lalande has re- * August Qih. 67 marked, in the Alpine mountains, that the number of shells and other similar productions which they contain, support the theory and systems of many philosophers, and prove that even the highest moun- tains have been heretofore covered by the sea. From the Lake of Mount Cenis runs a rivulet, for about a mile and a half, when it forms a beautiful cascade, and then increasing in size to Suza, ad- vances to Turin, where it falls into the Po. After passing the Grand Cross, we descended by a fine road rather steep, which wound almost like a geometrical staircase : we crossed the same water-fall four or five times. Near this place are seen the remains of a falling of earth and rocks, which spread deso- lation for the space of two miles. They inspired a dreadful idea of such a catastrophe. The descent into Italy is beautiful : so delightfully does the road wind, that although descending from so great a height, we travelled with perfect ease, and serenely enjoyed the prospect before us. We afterwards passed the luxuriant valley of Suza. On viewing this delightful prospect, rich in every species of grain, in the most delicious fruits, with an atmos- phere soft and sweet, a clear and serene sky, we could not help exclaiming, this is surely *' a land flowing with milk and honey." The pass of Suza was defended by a Fort which is now demolished ; it w^as situated upon a little height, and cut into the rock. This place is cele- brated by the death of the Chevalier de Belleisle, who perished in 1747, a victim to his courage. Suz^ 68 iS the first city in Piedmont. Tradition tells us, that Hercules passed here to penetrate into Gaul ; and that it was by this place also that Hannibal ef- fected his entrance into Italy. There is a triumphal arch in honour of Augustus, which still preserves th'3 beautiful proportions and taste of Roman archi- tecture. Suza owes its origin to a Roman colony which established itself under the reign of Augustus, who wished to open a road into Dauphiny, From hence to Turin is forty miles. We descended a little, and then entered on a plain between two mountains, until within a few miles of Turin. This plain is watered by the Dora Ripuaria, or Little Dora, to distinguish it from the Great Dora in the valley of Aoste. We now saw the vine united to the elm, and the earth covered with corn and mulberry trees. On entering Rivoli, we purchased four pounds of fine grapes for seven sous, and twenty- eight Burgundy pears for two sous. Fruit is plenti- ful here. Apples, pears, walnuts, and chestnuts may be plucked in passing, and peaches, apricots, plums, grapes, &c. are abundant, and very cheap. The road from Rivoli to Turin is straight, bordered on each side by trees, and in the midst of a beautiful plain. It is intersected by innumerable canals, dug expressly to spread the waters of the Dora. This is the commencement of the rich plain of Lombardy, which extends to Venice. fr9 CHAPTER V. TURIN : ALESSANDRIA AND GENOA. Turin is one of the finest cities in Italy. It is situated almost at the foot of the Alps, in a fine plain watered by the Fo, and in the place where that river receives the Dora Ripuaria. It is surrounded by good walls and a deep ditch, and was one of the best fortified places in Europe : the works are now all destroyed. It is celebrated for the many sieges it has sustained, and for its territory being the thea- tre of so many battles. The houses are grand, and built with great regularity, the streets being all at right angles with each other. Although, from that circumstance, it may, after a time, appear some- what monotonous ; yet it has an air of magnificence, and was certainly the handsomest city we had seen. The castle is a noble pile, and stands in the centre of a large square, called Piazza Castella. All the buildings have a clean appearance ; and although the architecture cannot boast of much taste, either in its formation, or in the distribution of its orna- ments, yet, altogether, the city has a fine effect. — Many of the houses are profusely ornamented, and almost all are adorned with Fresco painting, some scriptural, some heathen subjects, and numbers re- presenting balconies, terraces, kc, well executed. The chu;-ches abo have much ornament. They use 70 ihe marble of Suza, which resembles the verde an- iique^ the blue marble of Piedmont, and others of ditlerent colours, from the quarries of Geneva and Dauphiny. Nature has been lavish to this coimtry in the tinest marbles ; but she has not bestow^ed upon it a Bramante, a Buonorotti, a Vasari, or a Palladio. The bread here is of a much better quality than in France. Ice is served at tal3le, brought from the neighbouring Alps, and of so pure a quality, that it is*6omfnon to put it into the w4ne to cool it before drinking, and by dissolving there, it consequently becomes a part of the beverage. The manufactory for silk is in full vigour at Turin. The silk stock- ings are highly prized. The citadel is now orna- mented with rows of trees, which form a promenade for the inhabitants. The fogs, which often arise from the Po and the Dora, in autumn and winter, render the air thick and humid in those seasons ; while on the contrary, in the spring and summer, there is often no rain for months. Indeed, as we advanced in Italy, we found this very general ; for we passed over the bottoms of many rivers which were dried up, in conse- quence of the long drought. The surrounding country produces abundance of all sorts of provisions. Turin is about three miles in circumference. It is the capital of Piedmont, and was, when united to France, one of the principal cities of the empire. — The king of Sardinia, who resides here, is not n^uch respected by the people, who take every op- portunity of ridiculing him. I "sh^lj have occasion 71 to speak more of his qualities and government here- after. Alessandria is a day's journey from Turin. The beauty of the country continues through an agree- able and fertile plain, covered with grain, vines, and good pasturage. In advancing towards Astiy we passed in the middle of some hills, from whence flow limpid rivulets, which contribute to increase the Ta- naro. Alessandria della Paglia, upon the Tanaro^ is cele- brated in the history of the wars in Italy, from the number of sieges it has sustained. It has a strongly fortified citadel, considered the best in Italy, and so improved under Napoleon, as to be called the first rampart of the empire. Here is another of his grand w^orks, a bridge leading from the citadel to the city, covered in, and having machines to let down over the arches, hy which all the ditches are filled. Since the legitimates 'have returned, much of reli- gious mummery takes place, and processions of monks with lighted torches, &c. are every where met with, and the bells are continually tolling. Soon after our arrival, one of these processions passed, chanting for a sick person ; it was a heterogeneous assemblage, but the manner of their singing was so- lemn and affecting. The interior of the houses are elegant, the chambers having coved ceilings, and ornamented with Fresco painting. We saw pass above six hundred men in chains, being desert- ers, robbers, &c. returning from their daily task. The plain of Marengo is near here, where the cele- 72 brated battle was fought, when Buonaparte conquer- ed the Austrians, and in which General Dessaix was killed. We observed, as we approached southward, that there was little or no twilight. Oxen perform all the agricultural work, and were used in the market- carts, and for every purpose except posting. The asses are much larger here than on our side the Alps. Novi is the first city of Liguria ; it is situ- ated at the foot of the Appenmes, and is the de- pository of all the merchandise which comes from the Levant, in its passage into Germany and Lorn- bardy. Here the wealthy Genoese come to reside in the autumn. The figs were at this time ripe^ and of a delicious flavour. We afterwards entered on the Genoese Appenines : as we ascended, the air felt cold and damp. On passing the Bocchettay the luxuriance of the adjacent country was delight- ful. The villages are pretty ; and we enjoyed a prospect rich in every variety of hill, dale, and vegetation. From the highest point we had a first sight of the city of Genoa, and the Mediterranean Sea spread itself before us. The buildings in the suburbs are magnificent. They are adorned with Fresco painting, even to the walls of the gardens^ The vines entwine round the elm, and in some places are carried over the road, forming a canopy to the passing traveller. The road is so extremely bad across these mountains, that it was some time before we recovered from the effects of the exces- sive jolting. 73 We entered Genoa, called, by distinction, la su^ perha. The Genoese appear a noble and inde- pendent race. They have more the appearance of gentlemen (and by that I mean Englishmen) than any we had yet met with on the Continent. The women also reminded us of those of our own coun- try, and still more so from their dress being in ge- neral white. They are finely formed, noble in carriage, a full size, have good features, and spark* ling eyes ; but they want that mark of health, the carnation bloom, which distinguishes the British fair. The streets were so crowded with them on our entry, that we might have supposed the popu- lation to be entirely of women. They were pro- ceeding to the promenade. The Genoese appear to retain all their ancient spirit, and- nothing seems to gall them so much as being under the Sardinian government, which they detest. The Piedmontese and the Genoese have always been at enmity with each other ; and being now placed under the same king, the whole of the odium falls on his Sardinian Majesty. The Genoese say they should glory m being under the British government; but, tied down under those who know not how to appreciate them, they suffer the most odious impositions and exac- tions. The city is filled with troops, as if it were a besieged town ; and the rattling of drums is heard from morning till night. They say that there are more troops than can be paid ; and if it were not from the fear of an English fleet, they would expel the whole of them in twenty-four hours. The sol- 74 diers are openly insulted, the government is exe- crated, and so little respect have they for the king, that a man carrying his bust along the street, was offered by three different persons, fifty and a hun- dred livres each, to let them throw a stone at it. Such is the present state of Genoa, worthy of being a colony and an ally of England. The English are described as suffering more re- strictions than any other nation ; and we found from our own experience under the Piedmontese go- vernment, more delays and exactions from the po- lice and its other officers than in any other state. "In Genoa the police and the various consuls play into each other's hands, so that each may have his >share of the plunder of the traveller. The police said, it was necessary our passports should be viewed by the consul for the two Sicilies, although we were going to Leghorn. The consul of the two Sicilies (who, by the bye, was a talkative woman left in charge of the office, and no doubt was a suitable representative of that government) would not sign it without we paid eighteen francs for each ; and until this vvas done the mayor refused lis a bill of health. In this dilemma we were un- der the necessity of applying to our worthy consul Mr. Stirling, a man whose gentlemanly and concili- ating character must excite the admiration of every one, and who, if I may use the expression, is adored by the Genoese. It is quite delightful to find in- Genoa, where the English are really loved, a man ^0 capable of supporting the character and interests i J t*f ills country : the whole cily resounds with his praise. Kuowirig that there was no nece'ssity for our passports being seen by the consul for Naples, he obligingly wrote for ns to the police, who made an alteration, but not an effectual one ; and after sending backwards and forwards several times, and the delay of two days, we at last got it completed. It is a pleasing reilection that while the consuls of other nations endeavour to fleece all who come near them, the English consulate disdains to receive fees. Mr. Stirling's polite reception of us was par- ticularly gratifying. He is an Irishman, and evinced that urbanity of character and hospitality which arc the characteristics of his country. The first morning after our arrival w^e were awoke very early (about four o'clock) by a tremen- dous noise of human voices, which we found to arise from between three and four hundred Jabourers talk- ing under our windows, being the place of their as- semblage previously to the labour of the dsij. We understood that there were nearly seven hundred of these men, who were principally employed in con- veying corn to and from the vessels. They were described as a hardy and a most faithful race. We experienced their readiness to serve us on many oc- casions. In the heat of the day they are seen lying at full length in all the shaded avenues ; and the stairs and passages of the hotels and palaces are crowded with them. On the quay they have mats t^ protect them from the heat of the sun. The colour of their flesh is beautiful, and forms a most admira 76 ble study for the historical painter. The shops were all set out by six in the morning, and there was one street filled with jewellers, displaying all kinds of fanciful works in gold, beautifully manufactured. There are only a few principal streets where car- riages can drive ; the others are narrow alleys, through w^hich persons pass on foot, and con- reyances of goods are made upon mules or asses. The houses and palaces have a magnificent appearance ; the exterior being painted, and the interior adorned with sculpture in high relief. There is a general sort of taste displayed every where ; but the Genoese were never eminent in the fine arts. The interior of the church of St. Lorenzo had an imposing appearance : the pillars and pilasters were covered with crimson damask velvet and gold, and some parts were richly embroidered, the whole be- ing prepared for high mass. The church of Carig- nano is something like St. Paul's, but much smaller. The bridge of that nanie, which leads to the church, is built over a street. The tops of houses, high in themselves, are seen considerably below the arch of the bridge. The inhabitants of different countries have various ways of ending their lives, when in a state of despondenc3^ The English terminate their existence with a pistol ; but the Genoese precipitate themselves from this bridge, and thus enter into ''that undiscovered country, from whose bourne no traveller returns." The view from the top of the ichurch is very beautiful, commanding the whole of Genoa, which rises before you an amphitheatre of stone. In Ae walls of many churches are seen, riveted, links of chains of extraordinary size, pre- served as trophies of victory over the Vene'tians, being parts of their gates. All that we saw remind- ed us of the former power of Genoa ; but the Ge- noese citizens, with whom we conversed, although evincing in themselves an independence of spirit, siich as we do not often meet with on the Conti- nent, told us that Genoa was now but a shadow of its former self: they lamented they, were betrayed by those for w^iom they had the greatest respect, and assured us it was only under a solemn promise their independence should be recognised, that they ad- mitted the English troops, in spite, how^ever^, of this, they were delivered into the power of a nar- row-minded tyranny. It is painful to hear our coun- try, whose character has stood so high, thus charged with a breach of faith. However, there is some satisfaction that they seem to know from whence it springs, and make a distinction between the ministers of our great empire and its people. We were great- ly indebted to the friendship of a Genoese merchant, who, as he told us, for the love he bore the Eng- lish, in which he was joined by the whole city, wished to pay us every possible attention. I shall now proceed to relate the delights of an Italian feu- lucca. 78 CHAPTER VL THE FEULUCCA5 LEGHORN, AND PISA. Having determined to proceed to Leghorn by sea, we were advised to go by a feulucca ; and, without knowing exactly the sort of vessel which was to con- vey us, we engaged our passage in one that was to sail by the first wind. After waiting two or three days, we were told the wind was fair ; and, all our luggage being stowed on board, we proceeded to the quay. Our friend, the Genoese merchant, to whose kind services we were much indebted, attended our embarkation. The ceremony of taking leave exci- ted no little surprise in some who were unacquaint- ed with the custom. The conjunction of noses, and the feeling a rough beard where softer cheeks usual- ly dwell, certainly appeared very strange. How- ever, it was meant in the sincerity of friendship, and, as such, submitted to with a good grace ; though it was the subject of much merriment after- waMs. We then entered the Italian feulucca, and the reader may conceive us on the Mediterranean Sea, just emerging from the gulf of Genoa, the sun setting in splendour behind the maritime Alps. Eve- ry one will recollect, who has read Peregrine Pickle, the dinner given by the doctor at Paris, and the mode of laying themselves along to enjoy the repast. However ludicrous and inconvenient that might be^ 79 it was nothing when compared to our accommoda- tion. The feulucca is a large boat with a space ia the centre, boarded over, and the whole covered in with hoops and a tarpaulin. Under this, and on - these boards, the passengers recline, (for it :s hard- ly possible to sit up,) supported by their portman- teaus or any thing they can get Perceiving some shrugs and other uneasy indications in some of our fellow voyagers, we suspected they were not over clean. At last, one of them making several darts with his fingers at different parts of his dress, he very obligingly took a flea from his neighbour's cra- vat, and at once discovered the cause of those move- ments, and the object of his search. Our situation, then, may be imagined, crowded in a small boat witbout the possibility of escaping from this* species of annoyance, with which we very soon found our- selves fully occupied. Night having set in, the padrone (as the owner of the vessel is called) produced, for those who paid for the accommodation so high as we did, mattresses and blankets, and with them myriads of fleas. To free ourselves from the latter was impossible ; for, after every unavailing attempt, *' new legions on new legions rose." We were soon well bitten from top to toe ; " sleep, nature's soft nurse, was frighted, and refused to weigh our eyelids down in sweet forget- fulness." For four days and nights we were in absolute torment. As we advanced towards Porto Fino the rocks were very high and bold, and there appeared n© 80 chance of escaping if shipwrecked. In the course of the night we observed under these rocks boats with blazing fires, this being the mode adopted for catch- ing a kind of fish about the size of salmon, which are attracted to the boat by the light, when the men dart spears into them. After sailing briskly all night, we found ourselves in the morning returning to Porto Fino, having been driven back -by contrary winds. This place is inhabited by fishermen, and seems, irom the hills which surround it, to be separated from all communication except by sea. Our break- fast was fried fish and coffee. Being detained here the whole day, we wandered among the rocks, from the top of which there is a fine view of the Mediter- ranean. The water in the harbour is beautifully clear, and ail along the Etrurian coast it has the same transparency, with a colour equal to the brightest ultra-marine. A breeze springing up the next morning, we set sail, and made Porto di Ve- nere the following day. There also we landed, it being a day for the celebration of some fete, and the sailors were desirous of attending it. From Porto di Venere the Appenines line the coast, presenting a. fine appearance ; their tops capped with clouds, and their bases running into the sea. Although our voyage was tedious^ we were en- livened at times by the singing of the padrone, who had great power of execution. In the course of conversation with the passengers, we were told that we should find the Italians universally in fa- vour of Napoleon^ and they certainly expressed 81 their sentiments much more openly than in France, It was astonishing to us, as Englishmen, to find how little information the people of Italy or France had of what was transacting in other parts of the globe. They inquired when Buonaparte died, and when we informed them that he was still alive at St. Helena, ' they repeated the information among themselves, then shook their heads, and assured us that we were deceived by our ministers, for that he died in Eng- land. It was delightful to hear this distinction al- ways preserved between the ministers and the people. Fatigued and disgusted, we gladly landed at Leghorn, the fourth evening after our departure from Genoa. From many travellers, with whom we afterwards conversed, we understood the gene- ral character of the feuluccas to be such as I have described. Leghorn is a free port, and displays all the con- sequent bustle and activity. We felt much gratified in our reception. The moment we were known to be English, the examination of our passports was dispensed with ; ' at the same, time, it was politely signified that we might go where we pleased. After all the vexations and obstructions we had experi-* enced, and more particularly under the Sardinian government, we once more felt that we were Eng- lishmen. Our first' inquiry was for a bath, to which we hastened. The whole of the pavement of Leghorn being of flat stones, it was a luxury to walk on them ; and the coaches, which are very light, and drawn only 82 ■hy one horse, glide along the streets with e