F 587 .F7 ni Copy 1 iHE FOX RIVER VALLEY IN THE DAYS OF THE FUR TRADE DEBORAH BEAUMONT MARTIN [ From Proceedings of The State Historical Society of Wisconsin, iSyi) ] , ^ V. . >[ADISON State Historical Society of Wisconsin 1900 The Fox River Valley in the Days of the Fur Trade BY DEBORAH BEAUMONT MARTIN [From Proceedings of The State Historical Society of Wisconsin, 1899] MADISON State Historical Society of Wisconsin 1900 G3521 THE hOX RIVER VALLEY IN THE DAYS OE THE FUR trade; BY DEBORAH BEAUMONT MARTIN". When the embryo United States of America was comprised in a series of little isolated sea coast towns under English rule, and Xew France was the El Dorado of the rival power, one great dominating influence gave impetus to French exploration and discovery in the new^ world — the all embracing fur trade. It caught in its meshes Cardinal Richelieu, the controlling power in far-off France, and thereby shaped the foreign policy of a nation. The men of Canada in all degrees of life were more or less engaged in this enthralling pursuit; even the Jesuit priests were not exempt from the prevailing madness,^ and their donnes — the Canadian youth reared under priestly surveil- lance, to assist in the missions — carried the sanction of the church into their favorite occupation. Louis XIV., while greedy for the profits of this lucrative trade, realized too late its fatal results, the ruin that the all- pervading canker of lawless life and indifference to settled col- onization, had created in his great northwest dominion. He strove vainly to stem the tide that threatened to wreck his schemes for rulership in the western world f but England, %vell established by this time, strongly entrenched, and in league with the powerful Iroijuois confederacy, snapped her fingers at fu- tile efforts to dislodge her from her share of the beaver traffic. * Address delivered before the Wisconsin State Historical Convention, at Green Bay, September 6, 1899. ^Parkman, Old Regime in Canada, p. 328. Uhid., p. 310. 118 WISCONSIN HISTOEICAL SOCIETY. The inevitable encounter came, and the fall of l!Tew France waa the result. The Fox River valley in very early days became a pivotal point towards which the voyageur, whether priest, explorer, or courier de hois, cast longing eyes. We regard Wisconsin in the seventeenth century as a vast and lonely wilderness, but it waa in reality a busy, populous Indian center, where hundreds of Al- gonkins, driven westward by their untiring enemy, the Iroquois, had found safe haven. Their wig-^vams, covered with puckawaj mats, clustered at desirable points along the waterways ; rude fortifications, like those seen formerly at Red Banks, crowned the heights ; while scores of dusky hands trapped the beaver and beautiful black otter, and fashioned the skins into clothing or curtains to hang before the door of the lodge. It is Father Vimont who writes, in 1643,^ that Jean JTicolet, interpreter for the Hundred Associates, had nine years previous penetrated farther westward than any other Frenchman; and then follows that curious relation of how Nicolet, bound for the China sea, sailed instead into our ova\ Green Bay, and beached his canoe upon the sandy shore of Fox River. Twenty years later Radisson and Groseilliers paddled their birch canoe up and down the winding rivers of Wisconsin, and Radisson's pen pic- ture of a Wisconsin winter in 1658,^ thrills the reader of today as i1i did the listener of 250 years ago when "there did fall such a quantity of snow and frost" weighting the great pine trees, that the forest was dark at noonday ; and shrunken by bitter cold and famine they did eat their own dogs, and the hides of the very peltries they had risked life to gain. The trading posts were at first merely encampments, the Frenchmen often taking possession of an Indian wigwam, or a corner of the great lodge; but soon, cabins surrounded by a strong stockade became a necessity, and superseded the more primitive style of dwelling. In these the courcur de hois stored '^Relations des Jesuites, 1643. ^Wis. Hist. Colls., xi, p. 79. FOX EIVER FUR TRADE. 119 his furs Tintil sncli time as he saw fit to return to the home col- ony. Sometimes, as at the De Peretapids, the mission house was combined with a trading poet, and formed a little knot of buildings. During the years between 1661 and 1694, the fur trader most closely identified with the Fox River valley was ^N^icolas Perrot, giver of the famous ostensorium to the Jesuit mission of St. Francis Xavier, at De Pere. He stands forth as Wisconsin's first governor, for in 16S5 he received a commission from De la Barre, governor of ^ew France, with absolute command from Baye des Puants to the Mississippi.^ It was necessary that a man be placed here with influence sufficient to muster an Indian army, with diplomacy to outwit the Ottawa envoys of the Eng- lish and endowed with a sort of desperate bravery such as "trav- ellers between life and death" w'ere forced to possess in those troublous times. Perrot's headquarters w^re at St. Francis Xavier, and here he gave audience to the Indians of the vicinity. His labors were varied and arduous. The Bay Indians were not navigators, except for short distances ; and when a campaign was on foot against the Iroquois, Perrot must not only arouse the war spirit of the braves to a proper pitch, but must also un- dertake the more difficult work of urging the squawks to the task of fashioning canoes for the expedition — the bark to be stripped from the trees, carefully shaped, sewed, and pitched. In contrast to the staunch Perrot, appears in our early history, at this period, the figure of a more typical coureur de hois, Grey- solon Du Luth, brave, reckless, unscrupulous, accused even of bargaining wdth the English when it was to his profit but ready to fight to the death for France, when at last, war was declared between the two nations. He descended upon the RecoUet Father Hennepin, in bondage to the Sioux Indians, like a ver« itable good Samaritan in buckskin suit and tasseled cap; took Hennepin under his powerful protection, and piloted him safely ^Tailhan's Perrot. 220 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL SOCIETY. to the Green Bay post;^ but there thev parted company, for Du Luth was under ban for illicit fur trading, and powerful though he was in influence dared not risk the accumulated wrath of his government by a return to the home colony. In the decade between 1680-90 the English made desperate efforts to direct the beaver traffic to Albany, rather than Mon- treal, Xot so desirable as comrades, they were deemed better pay- masters than the French, and intercepting the fur fleets after they had left Michilimackinac, would by generous reward pre- vail on the occupants to barter away their valuable cargoes. This system of j^oaching on what the Frenchman considered his especial preserve, caused most bitter feeling between the gov- ernors of Xew France and Manhattan. In 1686, Marquis Denonville writes: "It is only necessary to ask you again, what length of time we occupy these posts and who discovered them — you or we ? Again, who is in possession of them ? Eead the fifth article of the treaty of neutrality, and you will see if you were justified in giving orders to estab-- lish your trade at Missilimaquina." Very cold and sarcastic is Governor Dongan's reply to this most "reflecting and provoking letter." "You tell me of your having had missionarys among them (the western Indians), itt is a very charitable act, but I am well assured gives no just right or title to the government of the Country— Father Bryare w^rites to a gent : that the King of China never goes anywhere without two Jesuits with him ; I wonder why you make not like pretence to that kindomc.'"- So the furious lettei^ passed to and fro until war, bitter, un- relenting, was the result. It is an interesting and involved study of cause and effect, this fur trade tangle in the seventeenth century, with Mackinac and the Green Bay waterway the goal of desire for two great nations ; and while "Peiter Schuyler took examinacons of ye antientesit traders In All)any how many ^Hennepin's Xouvelle Deconverte, 1698. documentary History of Xeiv York, i, pp. 264, 270. FOX raVER FUR TRADE. 121 jeares agon they or any others had first traded with ye Indyans yt had ye Straws and Pipes thro' their noses and the ffarther Indyans,"^ iSTicolas Perrot, trusted emissary of ISFew France, was speeding his canoe toward these same "ffarther Indyans," only to find that in his absence the savages had burned the mission house at Rapides des Peres, and that his accumulated stock of valuable peltries, representing his entire fortune, was destroyed.^ Truly the lot of a fur-trading diplom^at was a difficult one. The years following, up to 1764, represent an interesting and thrilling period of Western history — the courageous and useless effort of the brave Fox nation to bar from white man's inva- sion the Fox-Wisconsin highway. A French fort was estab- lished at La Baye.^ In 1760 it was garrisoned by the English. Times were too troublous for the fur trade to make progress. War was on between France and England, in which the Indian took part. Still an ally of the French, he had been rendered treacherous by false promises, and no white man's scalp was ■quite safe when a band of redskins was around. In 1745, Augustin de Langlade, long a trader at Mackinac, made bold to establish a post at Green Bay.^ It was the earli- -est decided effort at colonization— hardly that, at first, for Lang- lade's family remained at Mackinac; not until 1763 did he with his son Charles make La Baye their permanent home. And now begins the period of Acadian life in Green Bay's history. Snug little log houses sprang up along the river bank, with neat gardens attached, filled with all sorts of succulent products. Corn was the staple, while the bringing of the first ^pple tree by Madame Amable Roy, was an event worthy of chronicle. ' Until within very recent years the ridges of these extensive cornfields furrowed the commons surrounding Green Bav. A simple, kindly gayety permeated the habitant's life — ^Documentary History of Neiv Yo7-k, i, pp. 264, 270. . = La Potherie; also, Hebbard's Wisconsin iinder French Dominion. ^Charlevoix's Historic de la X. France, v, 432 *"Grignon's Recollections,'" Wis. Hist. Colls., iii. ]^22 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL SOCIETY. the fiddle and the bow held swa)- at social gatherings, and the Indians, at peace with their Canadian neighbors, became their servants to fetch and carry, and to bring provender from forest and river. There were no religions services held here, except by some visiting priest; the little children, we are told, were taken a canoe voyage to Mackinac to be baptized and then the legend re* mains of a large white cross erected on the west side of the river^ by an itinerant missionary, w^here the people would gather at stated intervals to say their prayers. Charles de Langlade acted as magistrate and law giver, and under his rnle such pleasures as May Day dances around a flower-decked pole were in vogue.^ After Judge Reaume mi- grated to Green Bay, marriage contracts were made out in due form, with many witnesses to attest their validity, and an after- touch of feasting and jollity. One subject of absorbing interest dominated the French Cre- ole's life, and seems to form the sole incentive to letter writing in these primitive times — the fur trade, always the fur trade. its ebb and its flow. The event of the year was the coming of the voyageurs from far Montreal, in the autumn, when the hab- itants would gather on the sand-point below Charles de Lang- lade's house, where the electric power house stands today, to watch the batteaux sweep in from the bay. Amidships sat the manager of the expedition, an autocrat ^Vhose word was law, while the crew formed in their gay toggery a bit of vivid color seen from far away. The paddles struck the water in sharp and perfect time to the song that rose and fell — of how Michel climbed a tree and fell down, or of two cavaliers who journeyed in company, one on foot and the other on horseback — the chorus endless in repetition, unmeaning to our prosaic minds, but the music, with its wild thrilling cadences, w^ould charm the heart out of the listener and make the tears start. It was the air to which was sung the couplet describing the two cavaliers, ambitious to ^"Grignon's Recollections." FOX KlYEU FUR TRADE. 123 see life, that captivaTed Tom Moore, the poet, and inspired the "Canadian Boat Song," so familiar in the early half of the pres- ent century : "Row, brothers, row; the stream runs fast, The rapids are near, and the daylight is past." John Jacob Astor and his Southwest Company had early in the century begun operations in Green Bay.-^ The Astor com- pany dovetailed into the customs of the habitants, as though to the manner born. Ramsay Crooks, Wilson P. Hunt, and Robert Stuart were veterans along fur-trading lines, and were hand-and- glove with John Lawe, the extensive Grignon connection, and the Porliers, The War of 1812 parts like a wedge this happy, careless ex- istence from the period of American colonization. The traders hurried their goods to Canada, and Astor wrote Jacob Franks in 1810 that trade threatened to be entirely ruined." The ensuing four years meant hard sledding indeed, for the Green Bay habi- tant. The royalists levied on everything available to support life, soldiers were quartered on property that met with their ap- proval, and when peace was declared the dwellers in the Fox River valley cared little which government came into power. There was considerable friction at first, for American methods were directly opposed to English rule ; but again the fur trade, Green Bay's staple industry, revived, and the long black pointed batteaux of the American Fur Co., — for Astor had thus rechris- tened his monopoly,^ — once more ]>lied between Mackinac and the Bay. The American government, however, did not propose to allow the profits of the fur trade to be swallowed up by a private cor- poration. Accordingly, an agent or factor was placed at Fort Howard, with instructions to divert at least a portion of the trade into the government coffers. It is amusing to run over ^Wis. Hist. Colls., ii, p. 101. ''Historic Green Bay, p. 138. 'Turner's "Fur Trade in Wisconsin," Proc. Wis. His. Soc, 1889. 124 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL SOCIETY. the official records and note how the well-meant efforts of this unfortunate deputy, Maj. Matthew Irwin, were frustrated by. the crafty resident traders ; but it was a serious matter at the time, and has gone into no less an authority than the American State Papers. Major Irwin lured the Indians by every known method. They accepted his gewgaw presents, they partook of his good cheer, they brought him hundreds of mococks of maple sugar which he feared to offend them l)y refusing, but not a beaver, otter, or raccoon skin would they fetch to his door, not even the red deer, unprized though it was by the fur company. In 1815, the amount of merchandise sent to the factory was $15,784.44. JSTot a single skin was brought in that year; the following season not quite so large a stock of goods, and only muskrat hides to show for it ; and so on, until the factory was discontinued in 1819. One of the best documents of the time is a report hj that Trojan among fur traders, Ramsay Crooks,^ con- cerning the government factory svstem, for the furious charges made by Major Irwin brought about official investigation of fur- trading methods at Green Bay. Crooks points out that the factor rarely meets the Indians, except during the process of barter, and, protected by a garrison, has nothing. to apprehend from their dislike or resentment ; while the private trader, constantly in the power of the aborigines, becomes identified with the tribe he traffics with. He adds that "the factories have been furnished with goods of a kind not suitable to the Indians, unless the Coimnittee should be of opinion that men and women's coarse and fine shoes, worsted and cotton hose, tea, Glauber salts, alum and antibilious pills are necessary to promote the comfort or restore the health of the Aboriginees ; or gi-een silk fancy ribands, and morocco slippers are indispensable to eke out the dress of our i-ed sisters." It was not only in fur trading circles that the American occu- pation worked up a terril)lo muddle. Creole holders of real es- ^Amer. State Papers, Indian Affairs, ii, p. 329. FOX RIVER FUR TRADE. ^25 tate were threatened with the confiscation of their property,^ w'hile in the iirst U. S. court," Judge Doty, hy his initial decree annulling marriages solemnized according to the Indian custom, bid fair to uproot family ties, and cause a general social up- heaval. The letters of the fur traders at this period reflect a decided tightness in the money market. One of the head merchants complains that times are so hard he has no money to buy wine, and has "even been oblig'd to dispense with whiskey and suffice myself Avith humble St. Terrance (water) not that it satisfies me."^ Another, giving orders to his deputy at one of the jack- knife trading posts, lays down this general rule : "Mix your "vVhiskey half and half to give away ; for sale one third water will be sufficient. Give no credit ; if done at all, it must be with great caution." At the Grand Kakalin, Augustin Grignon exercised patriar- chal rule, at the same time carrying on large trading interests; and at the same place was the trading house of Colonel Du- charme, that gallant figaire in Creole tradition. So proud was the Colonel, that when he stepped forth dressed in his English uni- form the liahitants would whisper to one another with sly winks and nudges, "He thinks no doubt to open St. Peter's gate with that grand air, and the words, "I am Col. Ducharme.' " The John Lawe trading house was still the center of Indian traffic at Green Bay, the business a marvel of intricate bargain and sale ; and it is interesting to note that during Lawe's fre- •quent absences at Indian payments or on journeys eastward, his daughter, Rachel Lawe, managed the extensive business to the en- tire satisfaction of its head. Judge Lawe would write minute and complicated directions, which he designated as "merely a guide," and Rachel, clever girl that she was, would carry them out to the letter.^ ^Amer. State Papers, Public Lands, iv. -Address of Hon. M. L. Martin before State Hist. Sac, 1851. ^'MS. Leiter of Jacob Franks to John Lawe. May, 1822. "MS. "Memorandum for Miss Racliel Lawe." ]^26 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL SOCIETY. A serioTis question for discussion in fur trading circles was how to control the unmanageable engagee, that irresponsible, im- provident rogue; and in 1832 Robert Stuart wrote to Morgan L. Martin, at that time a member of the Michigan legislature,, asking that he introduce a bill to have the whipping post revived,- especially for the drubbing of these refractory servants.-^ By 1824, a new element had coane into Canadian life at La Baye. The families of Irwin, Baird, and Whitney, well- born and well-bred, brought Eastern refinements into the fron- tier town, yet identified themselves in a social way with the French pioneers. Fort Howard had become an important fea- ture in Green Bay annals, and adds another touch of color to the fascinating and varied picture of life in the twenties. The military officers were here today and gone tomorrow ; but while they stayed they "made things hum" in old Green Baj^, and when an epidemic of small pox threatened the little village, and Fort Howard insisted on quarantine, consternation was deep and general. Every one seems to have been young, in those bright days., If there was old age, its shadow is not reflected in the- reoords of the time. It was all life and enthusiasm, the begin- nings of things in our State. An instance of the prevailing youth among prominent men of the time is shown in the fact that Judge Doty was only twenty-three years old when he pre- sided at his first term of court in Mackinac. In 1834 Astor retired on his millions, leaving to Green Bay hundreds of acres of unproductive lands, the property of the American Fur Company. The frequent call made through fur traders' letters for loans, sometimes for hundreds, sometimes for larger amounts, had met quick response from the company, un- til gradually the great monopoly swallowed up the bulk of lands owned by pioneer traders. The fur trade, with its easy profits, exercised the same malign influence in the nineteenth as in the seventeenth century. It paralyzed other industries. The profits grew less yearly, the business more diffused. The trad- ^Historic Oreen Bay, p. 269. FOX RIVER FUR TRADE. 127 ing house interfered with the country store to such an extent that the merchants complained of unequal competition, and more or less every store in Green Bay traded in peltries and made what profit they could in the sale of furs. The Fox River valley, in the days of the fur trade, was a different world from the Fox River valley of today ; and, in run- ning over the manuscripts of those days we live in a past that ■could never hy any possibility he revived. A life where ease and comfort counted for more than the accumulation of wealth, it was by no means the idle, care-free existence that the hustler of today regards it. The fur-trader's interests were as far reaching as those of any modern capitalist ; his corps of un- derlings as carefully trained to their work as experts of the present time ; profit and loss were as minutely noted ; but it was a business that fluctuated with the season and that was cer- tain to decrease with the passing years. While it brought Green Bay into prominence, it weighted her with old fur-trading tradi- tions and methods of doing business, and the tide of enterprise and imodern industries failed to get footing here as promptly as in Oshkosh and oilier cities in the Fox River valley. It reached the gate to the Fox-Wisconsin highway in due time, however ; and when the great bare Astor warehouse, where the laden boats discharged their cargoes in the old days, burned some twenty years ago, the flames swept away almost the last remain- ing vestige of a power that influenced above all else the early iiistorv of Green Bav and the Fox River vallev. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 754 902 7 ¥