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 CHICAGO : 
 Rand, McNally «fe Co., Pkintebs and Engbavkrs. 
 
 fTT f r y yTTTrTT' 
 
 1877. 
 
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Rand, JPNally & Oo.'S 
 
 TOUEIST GUIDE 
 
 TO THE 
 
 ]^ORTHWEST 
 
 CHICAGO : 
 RAND, McNALLY & CO., PUBIISHERS. 
 
 1877. 
 
r ' 
 
INDEX 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Appleton 69 
 
 Baraboo _ _ 47 
 
 Batavia . . 36 
 
 Beaver Lake 84 
 
 Berlin 72 
 
 Carver's Cave. _ 91 
 
 Castle Rock _ _ 97 
 
 Chicago 10 
 
 Chippewa Falls ._ 63 
 
 Crystal Lake 33 
 
 Devil's Lake 48 
 
 Duluth 97 
 
 Eau Claire 63 
 
 Elgin 33 
 
 Elkhart.. 44 
 
 Escanaba .105 
 
 Evanston 25 
 
 Fishing in Michigan .112 
 
 Fond du Lac _ 65 
 
 Fountain Cave 92 
 
 Fort Snelling 93 
 
 Frontenac 93 
 
 Geneva. 35 
 
 Geneva Lake _ 73 
 
 Grand Haven .115 
 
 Green Bay 46 
 
 Green Lake 67 
 
 Highland Park 27 
 
 Hyde Park _ 21 
 
 Introductory 5 
 
 Kenosha 40 
 
 Kiibourn City 54 
 
 Lake Forest 27 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Lake Pepin 93 
 
 Lake Zurich 30 
 
 Mackinac 106 
 
 Madison _ 52 
 
 Marquette .102 
 
 McHenry 36 
 
 Menasha _ 69 
 
 Milwaukee _ _ _ 37 
 
 Minneapolis 92 
 
 Mount Forest 23 
 
 Nashotah Mission 82 
 
 Neenah 69 
 
 Northfield 97 
 
 North Lake 84 
 
 Oconomowoc 80 
 
 Oshkosh _. 66 
 
 Palmyra 78 
 
 Pensaukee 71 
 
 Pewaukee Lake. ._ 79 
 
 Pine Lake 84 
 
 Prairie du Chien 60 
 
 Racine 40 
 
 Ripon 72 
 
 Riverside. _ 24 
 
 Sheboygan. 43 
 
 Sparta 60 
 
 St. Charles 35 
 
 St. Paul 89 
 
 Wabasha „ 95 
 
 Waukegan 29 
 
 Waukesha 76 
 
 Winnetka 27 
 
 Winona 97 
 
RAND, McNALLY & CO.'S 
 
 NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE, 
 
 "Whebe shall we spend the summer?" a,sks mater famihas about 
 this time, as she looks forward, amid the distractions of house cleaning 
 and spring shopping, to the hot days of July, August and September. 
 Now this is a question which has agitated the world at this season, as far 
 back as the most ancient civilization of which we have any knowledge, 
 though in these latter days it interests a much larger class than in the 
 good old times when the wealthy Romans used to go to Pompeii for their 
 villeggiatura. That which was once the privilege of only the wealthiest, 
 is now, in this country, within the means of almost every one having 
 even a moderate income, though many are under the impression that it is 
 very expensive. It is to remove this impression that this book is jDublished. 
 Not only do many people wholly overestimate the expense of a visit to 
 ihe lakes, the woods, and the mountains, but they are also too often 
 ignorant of the best localities for them to visit. 
 
 This is particularly the case in the West ; in the Eastern States, the 
 summer resorts are numerous and attractive, and their fame is national, 
 but the exorbitant cost of visiting them is also well known ; hence, people 
 make all their calculations upon the basis of Newport, Long Branch or 
 Saratoga prices, and abandon the idea of a pleasure trip for the summer, 
 on account of the supposed cost. The mere item of railroad fares from 
 Chicago, Cincinnati, Louisville, St. Louis, or any other Western city to the 
 sea coast, the White Mountains, or the Adirondacks, is in itself a large ex- 
 pense, especially where the family is large ; and then there must be added 
 innumerable petty charges of all kinds, which swell the aggregate cost of 
 moving a family to an alarming sum. Then, when the high rates of 
 board at these popular resorts are considered, it is not surprising that 
 
 (5) 
 
6 RAND, McNALl.Y <& CO:S 
 
 2)ater familias buttons up bis coat in a determined way, and tells bis 
 tbriving family tbat be can't afford to send tbem away for tbe summer 
 tbis year any bow. 
 
 Now it is needless to remark, tbat almost any man wbo sbould bear 
 of a plan wbicb would obviate tbese objections, and enable bimto send bis 
 family to an agreeable summer resort, would basten to take advantage of 
 it ; and be would also bold in bigb regard tbe person wbo sbould give bim 
 tbe information. It is in tbe bope of meeting a popular appreciation on 
 tbis account tbat tbis book is presented to tbe Western public. It is really 
 remarkable bow little is known of tbe beautiful scenery and cbarming 
 society at tbe watering places of tbe Great Nortbwest. In tbe States of 
 Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota and Micbigan, every variety of climate, 
 air, water, scenery and society can be found every summer ; and, witb tbe 
 single exception of surf batbing in salt water, tbere is not one natural 
 advantage wbicb tbe Eastern resorts can boast wbicb can not be found in 
 an equal or greater degree of perfection in tbe Nortbwest. 
 
 Wbat grand effects are to be found in tbe Wbite Mountains, tbe 
 Adirondacks, or tbe Allegbanies, wbicb are not paralleled or surpassed by 
 tbe sublimity of tbe four great parks of Colorado ? Wbat points of 
 picturesque beauty can tbe popular resorts in Massacbusetts, New York 
 or Pennsylvania sbow superior to tbose of Wisconsin and Minnesota ? In 
 wbat respect can tbe medicinal waters of Saratoga claim superiorit}^ over 
 tbose of Waukesba, Waukegan, Sparta, Palmyra and other places ? Wbo 
 tbat bas bunted in tbe woods and on tbe prairies of Wisconsin and Minne- 
 sota, wbipped tbe trout streams of Micbigan, and trolled for black bass on 
 tbe Wisconsin lakes, would wisb to go East for sport ? Truly, tbe man 
 wbo can not find a sufficient variet}^ of scenery, society and amusements 
 in tbe watering places of tbe West, will be no better satisfied anywbere be 
 may go. 
 
 In many instances tbe family man can not only send bis family to 
 recreate for tbe summer at tbese resorts, but also be can frequently join 
 tbem for a da}- or two bimself. It is tbe common practice of manj'' busi- 
 ness men of Milwaukee, Cbicago and otber large cities witbin a radius of 
 one bundred miles from tbe Illinois and Wisconsin summering places, 
 to spend Sunday at least of every week witb tbeir families in tbe country, 
 and tbus a total separation for three months is avoided. 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 7 
 
 The important question of expense is involved in the three questions : 
 How far must we go ? What price for board must we pay ? What clothes 
 will Mrs. Grundy require us to wear ? 
 
 It will readily be seen that, for Western men, the saving in railroad 
 fares in going to AYestern watering places, must be an important consider- 
 ation in itself, to say nothing of sleeping berths, meals en route, and other 
 necessary expenses in making a long journey East. 
 
 The question as to the price of board admits of such a variety of 
 answers as to give the widest range to the taste as well as to the purse. 
 Those who desire table variety and luxury, with the accommodations and 
 attendance of a first-class hotel, can find every want supplied in the best 
 possible manner in a number of elegant hotels throughout the region 
 herein described. Those who wish to spend the summer in a round of 
 social entertainments will fill these hotels, and the society thus gathered 
 together will be the very best, both in education and refinement. It 
 should be understood that people do not seek these resorts solely because 
 of their cheapness; that fact has been commented upon simply to show 
 that others besides the wealthy can there find accommodations of the most 
 satisfactory kind, in keeping with their means ; but the range of localities, 
 hotels and private boarding places is so great, that every taste can be 
 gratified. Board can be obtained all the way from six to twenty dollars 
 per week at almost all of the places described. 
 
 It is the same in the matter of dress. At the very fashionable points 
 the latest styles will be worn, and the richest material used as freely and 
 commonly as at Newport or Saratoga, while in many other places of equal 
 natural attractions people dress just as they please, and rejoice in being 
 independent of Mrs. Grundy for the summer at least. 
 
 The choice of places is almost unlimited, as is also the character of 
 them. Those who have yearnings after the pine woods and forest streams 
 of Maine, can find in Michigan and Wisconsin the same trees, the same 
 climate, and even the same men. 
 
 In the lovely Lake Region of Wisconsin, the scenery and the society 
 rival those of Lake George and Central New York. From one point in this 
 district, fourteen lakes can be counted m sight at one time. Among the 
 emerald, gold and russet hills, these brilliant jewels sparkle like tur- 
 quoises, and, connecting them, can be seen here and there glittering 
 
8 RAND, McNALLY & CO:S 
 
 threads of silver, where the streams steal out of the valleys into view. 
 The roads are excellent during the summer, and when strangers once be- 
 gin driving about the country, they feel as if they were in an enchanted 
 land, where the view from each hill-top is more beautiful than its 
 predecessor. 
 
 If visitors desire the benefit of medicinal waters, TVith the gayety and 
 fashionable amusements usually found at water cures, there is ample 
 opportunity to make a satisfactory choice in Ttl'.chigan, Illinois, or Wis- 
 consin, and no one need feel compelled to visit Saratoga, or aay other 
 Eastern springs for that purpose. 
 
 Even surf bathing of the j oiliest kind can be had at Chicago, Wauke- 
 gan, Milwaukee, or any of the other lake resorts. To be sure the water is 
 not salt, but then that may be considered an advantage by many people, 
 who know how nasty a mouthful of sea water is before breakfast. There 
 are numbers of fine beaches on Lake Michigan, where the sand is white 
 and soft, and where the surf comes tumbling in quite as energetically as 
 at Newport or Cape May. 
 
 When the question of shooting and fishing is considered, there will 
 be few who will not admit the superiority of the West in this respect upon 
 every possible count. The cultivated farm lands of Illinois, Wisconsin 
 and Minnesota, provide the finest possible fields for open shooting, there 
 being few birds superior to the prairie chicken either for shootiug or eat- 
 ing. The lakes and prairies are covered with every variety of water fowl in 
 their season, and the woods of Northern Michigan, Wisconsin and Minne- 
 sota contain all the game birds and many game animals, there being no 
 better field for deer shooting in the world , even black bears can be found, 
 when the hunters have the nerve to risk a meeting with them. 
 
 The disciples of gentle Isaac Walton have even better sport than the 
 Nimrods, since the fishing on nearly every lake in Wisconsin and Minne- 
 sota is first class, while the trout streams of Michigan are the finest in the 
 United States. Any one who has had the pleasure of taking a ten-pound 
 pickerel on a trolling line at Pewaukee or Geneva does not need to be told 
 that no gamer fish was ever gaffed, whether in salt or fresh water, and 
 the same may be said of the black bass. 
 
 In the succeeding pages onl}"- those localities which have already 
 acquired some standing as places of summer resort have been prominently 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 9 
 
 mentioned, although there are, undoubtedly, many others of nearly equal 
 merit, scattered through the territory herein hastily skimmed over. The 
 places contiguous to each other have been grouped together as far as pos- 
 sible, but no routes have been laid down, the publishers preferring that 
 each railroad should give its own official information by itself. This plan 
 has been made necessary by the fact that many of the places are accessible 
 by two or more routes, and the charge of favoritism is thus avoided. 
 
10 
 
 RAND, McNALLY & CO:S 
 
 CHAP TUB I. 
 
 CHICAGO. 
 
 Chicago is a modest city. She lias these many years allowed other 
 places to trumpet their claims to popular favor as places of summer resort, 
 and has not hitherto presented her own, even in the most unassuming 
 manner. Now, there are many who do not regard Chicago as a model of 
 self -abnegation and self-distrust, yet they cannot but acknowledge that in 
 
 this important particular 
 she has been decidedly 
 modest ; and when her 
 claims to recognition as 
 a w^atering-place have 
 been fairly and moder- 
 ately presented, it will 
 be considered strange 
 that they have not been 
 recognized before. 
 
 In the first place, 
 the situation is eminent- 
 ly favorable to the com- 
 fort of the inhabitants 
 during the summer 
 months. The broad ex- 
 panse of lake along the 
 whole east front of the 
 city tempers the heated 
 breezes which parch and 
 burn the atmosphere in 
 less favored localities, 
 and gives an equable 
 temperature, moist and 
 refreshing, almost all the 
 time. A whole day of sultry, dead, life-withering heat, such as is so com- 
 pion in other inland cities, is almost unknown in Chicago, and such heat, 
 even when it comes for a portion of the day, never lasts during the night. 
 The occasions are very rare when a cool lake breeze does not spring up 
 shortly after sunset, and the distinctive feature of Chicago climate in 
 summer is, that the nights are always cool. 
 
 LINCOLN PA UK. 
 
NORTHWEST TO UBIST G UID E. 11 
 
 Now, let us see in what other respects Chicago can claim recognition 
 as a watering-place. In the first place, what constitutes a watering-place ? 
 The important considerations are climate, scenery— or some other attrac- 
 tion to make it fashionable — good accommodations, good society, natural 
 advantages for amusement, and accessibility The climate, as has been 
 shown, is a remarkably agreeable one during the summer, and the other 
 points require detailed examination. 
 
 In the matter of scenery, few persons will venture to claim much for 
 the Garden City. The lake is a fine sight, but it becomes a trifle monoto- 
 nous after its different phases have all been seen, and. except the lake, 
 there is absolutely no natural scenery in or about Chicago ; one needs to 
 go at least as far as Winnetka to escape from the dead level, Hence 
 some other reason to make it a desirable summering place must be sought. 
 Nature, it is true, has done very little to make it attractive, yet it is not 
 wholly devoid of attractions. 
 
 It is a hospitable city in the heartiest sense of the word, and strangers 
 find great satisfaction in being made perfectly at home. There is little 
 of the feeling of inconveniencing one's host, such as often detracts from 
 the pleasure of a guest. Hence, the social relations of persons stopping 
 temporarily in the city are more apt to be pleasant than as if there was 
 a constraining sense of interference with some other person's comfort 
 continually in the mind of the visitor. 
 
 Then, as a great city, indeed, as one of the great cities of the world, 
 Chicago presents features of interest to almost any one. Previous to 1871, 
 the city might have been considered as a phenomenon in consideration of 
 its rapid growth in forty years from an Indian trading post to the fifth 
 city in point of population in the country ; but since the great fire of that 
 year, the marvelous rebuilding of the most valuable part causes it to be a 
 doubl^'- interesting point to visit. 
 
 Few large cities have such admirable opportunities for out-door pleas- 
 ures. The lake shore drives and the boulevards aflford every facility 
 for riding and driving ; the parks are full of beautiful walks ; and the 
 lake, as a place for boating, bathing and fishing, can not be excelled. 
 During the summer, moonlight /^/es are very frequent, embracing all the 
 advantages of watering-place pleasures with the conveniences of a great 
 city. Gay parties are made up for steamboat excursions to the suburban 
 villas along the lake shore, and often these are extended over two or three 
 days, the fruit region of Michigan, directly across the lake, being visited. 
 
 The city proper calls for little description in a work of this kind, yet a 
 brief sketch of its history will be of interest as showing the unparalleled 
 rapidity of its growth. The first settlement was made in 1804, at which 
 time old Fort Dearborn, a block house, was built. The massacre of the 
 garrison by the Indians, the destruction of the fort, and the removal of all 
 the residents, took place in 1812, and the site was practically abandoned 
 
12 RAND, McNALLY & CO.'S 
 
 until 1816. The locality was not favorably regarded by settlers, however, 
 and It remained a mere Indian trading post long after other points had 
 been quite extensivel}'' settled. 
 
 In the latter part of the jesv 1830 there were but fifteen houses at the 
 post, and these were all log cabins. The regular population did not num- 
 ber over one hundred persons, of whom perhaps one third were half-breeds 
 and negroes The first frame building was erected in 1832, and the first 
 brick building in the following year ; the latter was still standing at the 
 time of the fire in 1871. The town of Chicago was organized in 1833, and 
 the city was incorporated March 4, 1887. at which time the population was 
 found to be 4,170. In ten years, the population was just four times that 
 number, and in 1850, the census showed a total of 28,269 ; thenceforward 
 the increase was even more rapid, being at the rate of nearly twenty-five 
 per cent, a year until 1855, when the population was 80,028 ; in 1860, it was 
 109,263 ; in 1865, it was 178,539 ; in 1870 it was 299,370 ; and in 1875, it 
 was 400,000. 
 
 The spread of the city has been even in excess of the growth of popula- 
 tion, since so large a proportion of the inhabitants own the houses they 
 occupy. Moreover, the streets are laid out on a generous scale, and a 
 majority of the residences have grounds attached at least equal to the 
 space occupied by the building. For these reasons the area covered by 
 the city proper would in most other cities contain at least fifty per cent, 
 more population, but there is probably no other city in the world where 
 there is less crowding of the inhabitants The complete network of rail- 
 roads which centre in Chicago, enables a large number of families whose 
 business and interests are in the city, to live in the suburban towns, of 
 which there are a great number , though these people, strictly speak- 
 ing, belong to Chicago, they are not counted in estimating the city's 
 population. 
 
 The general health of the city is excellent, there being few cities in the 
 country where the death rate is so small. This is particularly the case in 
 summer, when the monthly rate is not more than one-half what it is in 
 the winter months. 
 
 At the present time the great features of interest in Chicago are those 
 which belong to the business life of the place. Several promising art 
 collections were totally destroyed at the time of the great fire, and, since 
 that time, both the money and the time necessary to replace them have 
 been lacking. These things will inevitably come, as time repairs the 
 losses of 1871, but for the present, the practical and utilitarian have forced 
 the aesthetic and artistic to await a more fitting season. Hence, the hand- 
 some buildings, the immense elevators and packing establishments, the 
 Union Stock Yards, the great engineering works, and the system of parks 
 and boulevards, constitute the sights which Chicago has to show to the 
 stranger. 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 
 
 13 
 
 The rebuilt portion of the city is a continuous object of interest. 
 Those who looked on the waste of smouldering ruins extending for three 
 miles through the heart of the city on the tenth of October, 1871, and who 
 have since been absent, can now hardly realize that this is the same city. 
 Ample traces of the fire yet remain, of course ; in some localities there are 
 considerable spaces vacant or covered by merely temporary structures ; 
 but in the South Division fully seven-eighths of the burnt district has been 
 rebuilt with the finest class of buildings ever erected in any cit}^ of the 
 world, while 
 eve a in the 
 Korth Divis- 
 ion, which is 
 almost wholly 
 devoted to re- 
 sidences and 
 retail business, 
 the handsome 
 dwellings now 
 outnumber the 
 vacant lots 
 more than two 
 to one. 
 
 The eleva- 
 tors are among 
 the principal 
 sources of the 
 business of the 
 city. They 
 handle mill- 
 ions of bushels 
 of grain every 
 season, and 
 nothing gives 
 a better idea of 
 the immensity 
 of the grain in- 
 terests than to see one of these establishments in full operation, receiving 
 from the railroad cars and canal boats, and discharging into vessels for 
 shipment to the East. The visitor will be well repaid for devoting a day 
 or two to the examination of these great buildings. 
 
 The same may be said of the packing-houses, where live hogs go 
 in at one side, and come out at the other in the shape of ham, bacon, 
 sides, lard, and bristles. This process can not be witnessed by the sum- 
 mer tourist, however, as the packing is done only in cold weather. 
 
 CENTRAL PARK. 
 
14 RAND, McNALLY & CO:S 
 
 Still a visit to the packing-houses can be made after having gone through, 
 the Union Stock Yards, where the live stock is received and sold. The 
 arrangements of this really wonderful place can not fail to excite a lively 
 interest, even though the summer trade be too light to give a fair idea of 
 the amount of business done here. 
 
 The system by which Chicago is supplied with water is a very re- 
 markable one. When the city first erected water-works, a large pumping 
 engine was placed in a convenient building on the lake shore at the foot 
 of Chicago avenue, and the necessary head to supply the highest build- 
 ings was obtained by pumping to a great. height in a tower. The water 
 was drawn from a basin extending only about two hundred yards from 
 the shore, and in the spring and summer the suction drew in millions of 
 fish varying in length from one inch to two feet. Of course the large fish 
 could not be forced through the pipes whole, and by the time they reached 
 the family hydrants, they were broken into a fine hash, which was de- 
 livered to consumers along with large numbers of the small minnows in 
 a perfectly lively condition. It was no uncommon thing in those days for 
 families to keep small aquariums, the inmates of which were all obtained 
 from the water-pipes. 
 
 The fish nuisance was bad enough, but soon a worse evil became fre- 
 quent ; the Chicago river had gradually become one of the foulest streams 
 on earth, and the volume of garbage which it emptied into the lake was 
 enormous; as the river's mouth was less than a mile distant from the 
 water-w^orks basin, a strong south wind would cause the putrefying filth 
 of the river to be driven up the shallow water along the shore until the 
 whole mass of the water was impregnated. The nuisance became intoler- 
 ably offensive at times, and it was evident that some plan was necessary 
 to furnish the city with pure water. 
 
 In 1864 an excavation was begun at the water- works for a tunnel to ex- 
 tend beneath the bed of the lake a distance of two miles in about an east- 
 northeast direction. The shore shaft was sunk a distance of sixty-nine 
 feet, and the horizontal drift was then made. While this work was pro- 
 gressing, an enormous framework of heavy timbers, jDcntagonal in shape, 
 was fioated out to the spot where the tunnel was to terminate, and this 
 "crib, " as it was called, was there sunk. The water was then pumped 
 out and a shaft was sunk to a depth of sixty-four feet below the Avater 
 level, whence the drift was run shoreward. The gangs working in 
 opposite directions met, and the bricking in was soon completed. The ac- 
 curacy of the engineer's calculations will be appreciated from the fact that 
 there was a variation of less than two inches in the excavation of the two 
 parties when they met. The tunnel is nearl}^ circular, having a diameter 
 of five feet two inches vertically, and five feet horizontally. The walls are 
 of brick, eight inches in thickness, and though it has been in service since 
 December, 1866, frequent examinations show that it is still perfect. 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 15- 
 
 The *' crib" remains as originally sunk, except that the upper part 
 has been replaced with heavy masonry. Comfortable quarters have been 
 built inside, and they are occupied by an employe of the city and a gov- 
 ernment light-house keeper. The "crib-keeper" has a wife and family, 
 and he seems as well satisfied in his narrow home as most people do in. 
 more spacious accommodations. During the summer, frequent visits are 
 paid to the *' crib " under permits from the Board of Public Works, but in 
 winter the ice cuts off all communication except by telegraph, a wire 
 being laid through the tunnel. A second tunnel has been constructed 
 from the "crib" to a point in the West Division, where additional 
 pumping works are erected. This work has been rendered necessary by 
 the fact that the distance of many parts of the city from the original 
 works makes it impossible to force the water through the pipes to a suf- 
 ficient height. 
 
 There are two large tunnels for vehicles and pedestrians in Chicago, 
 one beneath the south branch of the river at Washington street and the 
 other beneath the main river at LaSalle street. Keither of them is es- 
 pecially notable, and comparatively few persons now pass through them, 
 though it was supposed at one time that they would be used to a greater 
 extent than the bridges. 
 
 Another great work now going on is the Fullerton avenue conduit, a 
 vast undertaking having for its object the cleansing of the North Branch 
 of the river. When finished it will be a circular tunnel ten feet in 
 diameter and more than two miles long, extending along Fullerton avenue 
 at the north limit of the city, from the lake to the North Branch. 
 
 The foulness of the principal portion of the river has already been 
 obviated by deepening the Illinois and Michigan canal, so that the current 
 of the river has been turned backward, except in very rainy weather. 
 At most seasons the lake water flows up the main river and the South 
 Branch as far as Bridgeport, where the canal then takes the supply. 
 
 During the summer meeting at Dexter Park, some of the finest rac- 
 ing horses of the country are entered, and the display of speed is alwa3's 
 highly exciting. The park is situated about five miles from the city close 
 by the Union Stock Yards, and the course itself is one of the best in the 
 West. 
 
 The system of parks and boulevards adopted by Chicago is one of its 
 chief attractions. The natural advantages of the place are not great, 
 owing to the level country surrounding it, but a great deal has been done 
 to give the inhabitants several attractive places of outdoor resort, and 
 constant additional improvements are in progress. 
 
 On the north, Lincoln Park extends along the lake shore for nearly a 
 mile, and it is a most delightful spot for walking, riding, or driving. Its 
 southern entrance is only two miles from the centre of the city, and it can 
 be reached either by way of the Clark street cai's or by driving out along the 
 
16 
 
 RAND, McNALLT iS: CO:S 
 
 Lake Shore Drive, a magnificent roadway which now begins at the Water- 
 works, but which is to be extended all the -way to the river. Lincoln 
 Park is a perfect gem, and it is frequented by thousands of people dunng 
 ^ warm weather. 
 
 There are 
 two lakes con- 
 nected by a 
 broad canal, 
 and they are 
 favorite places 
 for boating 
 parties. The 
 canal is cross- 
 ed by several 
 bridges of 
 
 tasteful and 
 harmonious 
 designs, which 
 add greatly to 
 the pictur- 
 esque air of the 
 place. Here, 
 during the day- 
 time, groups of 
 merry chil- 
 dren with their 
 nurses stand 
 and feed the 
 swans and 
 other water- 
 ". fowl which are 
 domesticated 
 ^ in a handsome 
 _ water-house on 
 one of the 
 lakes. 
 
 The walks and drives are very agreeably laid out, and landscape gar- 
 dening has here been carried to an unusual degree of perfection. 
 
 Near the centre of the park is a boat-house and refreshment room with 
 every convenience for comfort, and close by is the highest elevation in 
 the park, whence a general view of the whole can be obtained. 
 
 Two afternoons in every week during the summer a band plays in the 
 park, and the attendance is then enormous. Occasional moonlight con- 
 certs are also given. Chicago is noted for the number of private carriages 
 
 CHICAGO RIVEU— LAKE STREET BRIDGE. 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 17 
 
 owned by her citizens, and for the amount of driving done by the people 
 there ; hence, whenever these concerts occur there is always an immense 
 assemblage of stylish equipages, and the scene is a very gay one. 
 
 There is quite a good nucleus for a zoological collection in the park, 
 and as additions are made every year, the day is not far distant when 
 this department will be one of the most interesting of any. 
 
 In the "West Division there are several handsome parks, all easily acces- 
 sible by street cars or stages. The oldest park in the city is Union Park, 
 situated only two miles from the centre of the city. It is surrounded by 
 the handsomest resident portion of the West Division, and is a favorite 
 resort for hundreds of ladies and gentlemen every pleasant summer even- 
 ing. Though small, comprising only a score of acres, it has been laid out 
 and improved in perfect taste at a large expense, over $100,000 having 
 been expended upon it. There are instrumental concerts here two even- 
 ings a week during July and August. This park is a model of elegance 
 in every part, and the visitor after rambling through it some perfect 
 moonlight evening, will hardly believe that it is really so small. The 
 walks, trees, shubbery, hills and miniature lakes are so admirably laid 
 out to harmonize one with the other, that the park gives the impression 
 of being much larger than it is. 
 
 The Central Park, near the western limits of the city, is one of the 
 grand system of parks which have been provided for the future. It con- 
 tains over two hundred acres, and much has been done toward improving it. 
 Hundreds of large and valuable trees have been set out, and several miles 
 of smooth, macadamized walks and drives have been laid. It is reached 
 by a broad boulevard, which is a favorite resort for owners of fast horses. 
 The scene, when fifty or sixty of the best trotters of the city gather for 
 trials of speed, is one of great fascination and excitement. This park 
 had no natural advantages whatever when it came into the hands of the 
 Park Commissioners ; it was simply a piece of flat prairie unrelieved b}' 
 a single elevation. Enough has already been done to show the general 
 plan of the intended improvements, and within a few years it will com- 
 pare favorably with many parks which have had natural beauties far sui'- 
 passing it. 
 
 The Central Park is connected with the South Park by a broad boule- 
 'vard, and indeed the whole chain of parks may be reached by the same 
 "broad avenues. 
 
 The South Park is composed of two large tracts containing in all over 
 one thousand acres. The first may be reached directly from the city by 
 driving south on any of the principal avenues to the city limits, where 
 two large boulevards, two hundred feet wide, extend to the park at a dis- 
 tance from each other of about one-half a mile. The northern limit of 
 this portion of the park is Fifty-first street, about six miles from the cen- 
 tre of the city. This park is one of the most delightful spots about the 
 
18 RAND, McNALLY & CO:S 
 
 city, though it is not so popular as either Union Park or Lincoln Park, on 
 accou:U of its greater distance from the centre of population. At the 
 southern limit, about a mile from the entrance, a broad pleasure way, 650 
 feet wide, runs east to the lower portion of the South Park which extends, 
 south for a mile along the lake shore. The improvements have already 
 made this park superior to any other in the West, and when the whole 
 plan of the work is finished, very few parks in this country will equal it. 
 
 The Lake Front Park, along the northern portion of Michigan avenue, 
 is a favorite place of resort. It extends from the Exposition Building to 
 Park Row, nearly a mile, and the whole consists of well-kept green 
 sward, plentifully sheltered by large and beautiful trees. The space was 
 once a portion of Lake Michigan, and the railroad breakwater formed a 
 complete protection for boats, so that it was a very popular place for 
 boating parties. After the great fire, the whole basin was filled up, the 
 debris of the burned buildings being used for filling. No special attempt 
 at beautifying it has been made, beyond setting out the trees and keeping 
 the sod in order. An orchestra plays in the pagoda at the south end of 
 the park one afternoon of every week. 
 
 There are many other small private and public parks in different parts 
 of the cit}', some of which are perfect little gems of landscape gardening. 
 Opposite Washington Park m the North Division is the handsome frame 
 house of Mr. Mahlon D. Ogden, the only building in the whole burnt 
 district which escaped destruction in the great fire, the park having pro- 
 tected it. In this park also is the Centennial Elm, one of the largest trees 
 ever transplanted. 
 
 Jefierson Park, Ellis Park and Arcade Court are beautiful spots in the 
 resident portions of the city. The architecture and decoration of Arcade 
 Court are unsurpassed by those of any similar park in this country, and 
 few of the cities of Europe can show anything more artistically elegant. 
 
 Id Groveland Park, on the lake shore near Thirty-fifth street, is the un- 
 finished monument to Stephen A. Douglas, and both this park and 
 Woodland Park adjoining are delightful residence localities. 
 
 It is a matter of surprise to most strangers in Chicago that there is so 
 little taste for aquatic sports. The opportunities aff'orded by the great 
 lake extending along the front, would seem to be sufliciently ample for 
 every variety of water amusement, yet until recently there have been 
 comparatively few who have taken advantage of them. There are now, 
 however, four organized boat clubs in the city, forming the Chicago navj'-; 
 and the Chicago Yacht Club, though young, has several very fine yachts 
 under its flag. Boats are kept for hire at the foot of Park Row at the 
 south end of the Lake Front Park, and large numbers of ladies and gentle- 
 men are in the habit of spending their evenings on the lake during pleasant 
 weather. The idea that the lake is dangerous is rapidly passing away as 
 people begin to understand its signs belter, and there is no doubt that 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 
 
 19 
 
 before many years Chicago and Milwaukee will have as extensive rowing 
 and yachting fleets as any city on the sea board. There are already 
 several steam yachts, which make regular trips to Lincoln Park and to the 
 South Park, and these yachts are frequently hired for picnics and similar 
 
 excursions. 
 
 LA SALLK STREET, LOOKING SOUTH. 
 
 Taken all in all, there are few cities, and none in the West, which can 
 compare with Chicago as a summer resort. Many persons can not bear 
 the ennui which is sure to attack them in small watering places ; to such, 
 Chicago offers every advantage of the watering place as well as the 
 variety, gayety, comfort and breadth of life which a large cosmopolitan 
 city alone can afford. Its hotels have a fame that is world-wide ; its 
 
20 RAND, McNALLT & C0:8 
 
 theatres are unexcelled by any ; its clubs, though few, are select ; its 
 churches are beautiful, and their ministers brilliant, logical and pious ; its 
 educational institutions are second to none ; its newspapers are the best 
 in the world, and its general attractions are too many to be here recount- 
 ed. Chicago is a delightful place to arrive in about May 1, and stay till 
 April 30. 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 21 
 
 CHAPTER II, 
 
 HYDE PARK — MOUNT FOREST — RIVERSIDE —EVANSTON — WINNPTKA 
 HIGHLAND PARK — LAKE FOREST. 
 
 HYDE PARK. 
 
 But if Chicago has so large a share of attractions for the summer 
 visitor, her suburbs are still more favored. Man}^ of them are good 
 sized cities in themselves though they retain many of the advantages of 
 country resorts. Those along the lake shore are perhaps the favorites 
 with many people, while others prefer to move back from the sound of 
 the mournful surf to such attractive spots as Riverside and Mount Forest. 
 
 Of those places which are situated "by the sad sea wave," Hyde Park 
 has one of the most delightful locations. It begins at the city limits of 
 Chicago on the south, and extends twelve miles along the lake shore, in- 
 cluding within its boundaries the South Parks and Drexel and Grand 
 Boulevards. Strictly speaking, Hyde Park is a mere extension of Chi- 
 cago, though it has a wholly separate municipal government, and it has 
 several good-sized towns within its limits. It can hardly be considered a 
 country village, for all of its inhabitants are of the city type and educa- 
 tion; yet it has much of the easiness of habit and comfortable absence of 
 ceremony which are so refreshing to people who have long been mewed 
 up in city houses. 
 
 The streets are wide, and many of them are well paved, so that there 
 is no noticeable transition from the city except in the greater space of 
 ground occupied by the houses. The lots are laid out on the plan of 
 fifty feet as the smallest frontage, and there are hundreds of places where 
 the beautifully kept grounds comprise several acres. The portions of the 
 village most frequented by visitors are those which are nearest the adjacent 
 stations of Kenwood and Hyde Park. These are respectively about six 
 and one-half and seven miles from the centre of Chicago ; and, being 
 only twenty-five minutes distant by railroad and forty-five by carriage, 
 there are hundreds of business men who stay there every year from May 
 or June until November, besides the regular residents. The hotel accom- 
 modations are ample, and many private families will take a few boarders 
 for the summer months. 
 
 All the boulevard and South Park drives and walks are, of course, close 
 at hand for the visitor in Hyde Park, while the lake affords ample oppor- 
 tunity for aquatic sports. There is a large basin protected by a break- 
 
22 
 
 RAND, McNALLY J; COrS 
 
 water, in "which boats are kept for hire, and several bathing houses have 
 been erected for the convenience of those who like lake surf bathing. 
 
 As so large a portion of the residents of Hyde Park and Kenwood are 
 people comparatively wealthy, and many absolutely so, there are frequent 
 out-door parties of the most charming character. Nothing can be more 
 delightful than one of these fetes champetres, where the beautiful grounds 
 are lighted by calcium lights and innumerable Chinese lanterns, and every 
 
 comfort and luxury is 
 
 provided for the enter- 
 tainment of the guests. 
 As one gazes upon the 
 gay throng of dancers on 
 the dancing floor, thence 
 to the romantic couples 
 wandering through the 
 dimly lighted grounds 
 and out upon the lake, 
 where there are many 
 boating parties listening 
 to the sweet strains of 
 music, one could almost 
 fancy that it was a scene 
 from fairy land. Besides 
 these frequent private 
 parties there are weekly 
 hops at the hotel, which 
 are of a very select and 
 enjoyable character. 
 
 One of the pleasant 
 walks from Hyde Park is 
 toward the upper South 
 Park, through a portion of the village called Egandale. Situated about 
 half a mile from the lake, it is a very charming combination of wooded 
 land, thick copse and open clearings for beautiful residences. The rapidity 
 with which building is going on in this vicinity will soon divest this place 
 of its present picturesque roughness, but the parks will always be avail- 
 able as public resorts. 
 
 For those city families who do not wish to divide for the summer, 
 and who yet wish to give the younger members the benefit of out-door 
 life during their school vacation at least, Hyde Park has many advantages. 
 Itoflers every watering-place attraction, while it is also so convenient to 
 the city as to enable a business man to live with his family without giving 
 up his business. On this account it is preferred by many to more dis- 
 tant places, and bids fair to become as fashionable as it is enjoyable. 
 
NORTHWEST TO URIS /' G UIDK 2a 
 
 MOUNT FOREST. 
 
 Some distance back from the lake, about thirteen miles from the city, 
 is a suburb which is totally different from all 'he others around Chicago. 
 Mount Forest was little known until a system of generous improvements 
 was begun in 1873, and since then it has rapidly won its way into popular- 
 ity. From the railroad station the ground rises rapidly to a height which 
 commands a view of the country for miles around, and it is this elevated 
 character which makes it one of the most attractive of Chicago's suburbs. 
 The topographical features of the country at this point are such as to 
 make it very agreeable to those who have been long accustomed to the 
 dead level of prairie which immediately surrounds Chicago. The most 
 elevated point is about one hundred feet above the site of the railroad 
 depot, about half a mile away, most of the difference of level being found 
 in the first half of the distance, as after the plateau is reached, the far- 
 ther rise is not great. 
 
 This plateau is one of the most picturesque spots around Chicago, the 
 scenery being unequaled in any of the suburbs except those aloog the 
 lake bluffs above Winnetka. There is a constant succession of wooded 
 knolls and rugged ravines which afford an endless variety of views and 
 vistas of the most agreeable character. On the highest point a Govern- 
 ment observatory is situated, and those who have the nerve to climb 1o 
 its dizzy height, will be well repaid for their trouble. Far off to the 
 northeast and southeast the blue rim of the lake fades into the horizon 
 line, while from Evanston to South Chicago, and from the lake "crib" 
 to Riverside, the whole panorama of " Chicago and Her Suburbs" is in 
 view. The scene on a bright summer day is an exceedingly beautiful 
 one : the lake glitters and shimmers in the distance, and its bosom is 
 covered with the white sails of many vessels deep freighted with the 
 products of farms, woods, and mines ; nearer is the populous city, stretch- 
 ing for miles along the coast, with numerous detached suburbs and clus- 
 ters of country homes ; to the south and east stretch the lakes and rivers 
 about South Chicago, and to the north and west are the woods along the 
 course of the Des Plaines river. 
 
 The wooded knolls and picturesque ravines around Mount Forest 
 extend a long distance south along the elevated plateau upon which 
 most of the houses are situated, and the scenery is of the most varied 
 character. In the fall there is great sport in organizing nutting parties in 
 the woods, where many of the nuts indigenous to the West can be found 
 in great quantities. Willow Lake, at the foot of the hill on the opposite side 
 of the railroad track, is an admirable spot for either boating or fishing, 
 and in the proper seasons the water-fowl shooting is excellent. Boats and 
 shooting punts are kept for hire, and also fishing tackle. 
 
24 
 
 RAND, McNALLY & CO.'S 
 
 The hotel accommodations are excellent, and most visitors are obliged 
 to live at the hotel, there being few or no private boarding houses. This 
 want will be supplied eventually, however, and those who do not desire 
 hotel living can then find congenial quarters among the permanent resi- 
 dents. 
 
 RIVERSIDE. 
 
 Riverside is a suburb with a history — a brief one, it is true, but it has 
 had a more chequered career than that of any other suburb of Chicago. 
 Its existence dates back only about seven or eight years, previous to 
 
 which time its 
 present site was 
 a piece of wild, 
 tangled and 
 
 wooded bottom 
 land on the Des 
 Plaines river. Its 
 close proximity 
 to the city, and 
 its natural ad- 
 vantages attract- 
 ed the attention 
 of a few capital- 
 ists and specula- 
 tors, who con- 
 ceived the idea of 
 creating a model 
 suburban town, 
 where all the 
 comforts, con- 
 veniences and 
 luxuries of the 
 city^ should be 
 combined with 
 the advantages of 
 
 countr}' life. To this end a stock company was formed, and the whole tract 
 now known as Riverside was laid out by distinguished architects, civil engi- 
 neers, and landscape gardeners, according to the most approved plans. 
 A very large portion was dedicated for jDiirk purposes and driveways, 
 water works and gas works were erected, a beautiful hotel was built, and 
 the property was put on the market. The deeds of sale required that no 
 house should be put up below a certain value, and the high-toned charac- 
 ter of the suburb was thus ensured from the start. The success of the 
 
 BRIDGE OVER THE DES PLAINES AT RIVERSIDE. 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 25 
 
 scheme was remarkable, and the handsomest dwellings of any around 
 Chicago were erected by the score. 
 
 The plan of the streets was an irregular one, consisting partly of con- 
 centric circles with diverging avenues, and partly of rectangular streets ; 
 innumerable small plats were thus left unavailable for building purposes, 
 and these were dedicated for parks, so that there would never be any lack 
 of breathing places even though every lot were built upon. The river 
 was deepened, and its banks clothed in heavy green sward ; the streets 
 were paved with a substantial asphalt pavement ; gas and water pipes 
 were laid to great distances, the water being supplied from an artesian, 
 well ; a broad boulevard was laid to the city, and the future of the place 
 seemed to be assured. It was the model suburb of the West, and, indeed, 
 there were few in the whole country which surpassed it for beautj', com- 
 fort and style. 
 
 Under these circumstances it was not surprising that it became one of 
 the places of fashionable resort, not onl}^ for those who established per- 
 manent homes there, but for the floating summer population who wished 
 a place of g-Aj society and country life from June until October. Noth- 
 ing was more fashionable than a sojourn at Riverside, and while man}^ 
 went there because thej^ liked the situation and surroundings, many others 
 went because it was considered the proper thing to do ; or, as Mr. 
 Potiphar innocently expressed it, because " all the parvenus were going." 
 Unfortunately this reign of prosperity did not last : the effect of the 
 great fire was disastrous, and the panic of 1873 was crushing. The 
 number of summer visitors during the last three years has not been large, 
 though the circumstances are in no whit different from those under which 
 it had such an enviable career in its infancy. It is now again becoming 
 a favorite with many people who wish a suburban summer residence with 
 the conveniences and luxuries of the city. It is a quiet place, with the 
 attractions which a quiet place can afford, and the society is of the very 
 best character. 
 
 There were a number of cases of ague one summer in this vicinity, 
 but it is not probable that this was due to the normal state of the climate 
 so much as to the exceptionally hot, dry character of the weather that 
 year. Care, however, should be exercised not to unnecessarily expose 
 one's self to the night air on the river, unless the latter be full, and flow- 
 ing with a good current. 
 
 EYANSTON. 
 
 Evanston, on the north of Chicago, like Hyde Park on the south, is 
 an incorporated village, having many of the advantages of a city, com- 
 bined with the pure air and other attributes of the country. It is situated 
 on the lake shore about twelve miles from the centre of the city, and it is 
 
26 
 
 RAND, McNALLY & CO: 8 
 
 the home of many thousands of Chicago's business men and capitalists. 
 The land north of Chicago gradually rises along the lake shore, and 
 although it is still quite level at Evanston, the elevation is sufficient to 
 give considerable variety to the landscape. The view of the lake in its 
 numberless moods and colors is alone very attractive, and as the sur- 
 rounding countr}^ is quite well wooded, there are many pleasant walks 
 and drives. 
 
 Evanston is the site of the Northwestern University, one of the fore- 
 most educational institutions in the West, and partly on this account it 
 has become one of the principal centres of Methodism in the country. The 
 
 COLLEGIATE DEPARTMENT, LAKE FOUEST. 
 
 village harbors many of the most noted theologians and men of letters of 
 Chicago, and the society is in the highest degree refined and cultivated. 
 Besides the University there are several other institutions of learning 
 which attract large numbers of students and reflect credit upon the place. 
 
 There is only one hotel, but there are a great many private families 
 who take summer boarders, and every kind of accommodation can be 
 obtained, at prices varying from six to ten dollars per week. 
 
 The lake shore boulevard will be completed as far as Evanston and 
 perhaps beyond very soon, and the beautiful drive thus afforded will be 
 the resort of large numbers. There are frequent excursions from the 
 city by steamer, and it is expected that a regular line of passenger boats 
 will commence running soon. 
 
 Evanston is a strict temperance town, no saloons nor bar-rooms being 
 
NO n THWEST TO URIST G XT ID E. 27 
 
 allowed within its limits, and there are few more quiet or orderly places 
 in the world. Indeed the religious atmosphere pervading society is very 
 perceptible, and nothing loud, sensational or wicked ever happens there. 
 Lawn parties and picnics with occasional dances and private dramatic 
 entertainments, constitute the principal forms^ of social amusement. 
 There are some opportunities for boating when the lake is smooth, but 
 as there is no protected basin, the number who indulge in aquatic sports 
 is not large. There are a number of private boats, however, and many 
 persons owning lake property have private bathing-houses, on their own 
 grounds. 
 
 Evanston is not a place of fashionable resort in one sense; that is, it 
 has no great hotel with a numerous host of gay butterflies to keep it in a 
 whirl of excitement and dissipation, nor is it a favorite pleasure haunt for 
 the great beau monde; but it is, nevertheless, a place of many attractions 
 for a quiet family or a party of students. Being within easy reach of 
 Chicago, all the resources of that city are at command by simply taking 
 a short ride down town, while also there are certain advantages of out- 
 door life, pure air, congenial society, good living, and moderate charges, 
 which can well be appreciated by the student and the man of family. 
 Then too, while it is so easily accessible from the city, it is also corre- 
 spondingly near some very handsome and picturesque scenery in the other 
 direction. As before stated, the shores of the lake rise higher and higher 
 as one goes northward, and the monotonous level is replaced by steep 
 blufts, through which deep ravines run down to the lake. This feature 
 becomes more and more marked until Winnetka is reached, at a dis- 
 tance of about sixteen miles from Chicago. 
 
 WmNETKA, HIGHLAIS'D PARK, LAKE FOREST. 
 
 Winnetka, situated on the lake shore sixteen miles north of Chicago, 
 occupies a commanding position above the lake, and the rising groui-d 
 aflfords a much greater variety of scenery than the level country farther 
 south. The rise is quite abrupt from the beach, forming a sea-face of 
 bluffs, which are scored in many places with ravines and diagonal paths to 
 the water's edge. The accommodations for boarders are confined to such 
 private families as may choose to take friends for the summer. 
 
 Winnetka is noted as the spot where many of the passengers of the 
 ill-fated steamer Lady Elgin drifted ashore after that vessel sank from the 
 effects of a collision in 1859. The sea was very high, and the waves beat 
 up to the foot of the cliff, so that even when the unfortunate passengers 
 succeeded in floating ashore, they were unable to get a foot-hold, and 
 many were thus drowned or beaten to death by the heavy breakers with- 
 in a few feet of shore. Fragments of the wreck continued to drift ashore 
 
28 
 
 BAND, McKALLY & CO:S 
 
 for days, and many bodies were not recovered until the storm had wholly 
 subsided. 
 
 At Highland Park, seven miles north of Winnetka, the bluffs are still 
 higher, and the general picturesquenessof the place is even greater. The 
 elevated plateau above the lake level continues for several miles, and the 
 general character of the country is the same at Lake Forest as at Highland 
 Park. The woods are dense and overgrown with underbrush in many 
 places, while at others there are large tracts of heavily timbered land 
 which look like private parks, there being no small growth to break the 
 beautiful vistas beneath spreading boughs, which cast their shade upon the 
 closely matted green sward. 
 
 At the foot of many of the ravines, some of which are very deep, abrupt 
 and beautiful, there are sparkling streams of spring water flowing toward 
 the lake. Though these are not sufficiently large to create waterfalls of a 
 noticeable character, their winding courses over broad stones, yellow 
 sand and green moss banks are striking additions to the attractions of the 
 scenery. These woods are frequently resorted to by private picnic parties, 
 and there are few more charming spots an3'^where around the city. 
 
 There are ample hotel accommodations, and their clientele of summer 
 visitors is quite large. The drives and walks are of the finest kind, and 
 there are plenty of opportunities for surf bathing in the lake. 
 
 HIGHLAND HALL, HIGHLAND PARK. 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 WAUKEGAN — LAKE ZURICH — CRYSTAL LAKE — ELGIN — ST. CHARLES — 
 GENEVA — BATAVIA — McHENRY. 
 
 At a distance of about thirty-five miles from Chicago, there are many- 
 delightful spots for a summer visit. They can not be regarded strictly as 
 suburbs of the great city, but they are within easy reach. Many business 
 men live in the above 
 named places and go 
 to and from Chicago 
 daily; but it is as sum- 
 mer resorts, and not as 
 places for suburban 
 residence that they are 
 here noticed, 
 
 WAUKEGAN 
 
 Is on Lake Michigan, 
 about thirty-six miles 
 from Chicago, and it 
 occupies a very attract- 
 ive location. The 
 beach is very wide, and 
 the sandy, barren ex- 
 panse stretches back 
 several hundred feet 
 from the water line. 
 Then comes a steep 
 bluff, which extends 
 along the coast for 
 several miles north and 
 south, and on the plateau above this bluff most of the town is situated. 
 Waukegan is a quaint, quiet place, with very little business energy 
 and a great deal of good society. These characteristics are just those 
 which are essential to a summer resort, and in that capacity it is a success. 
 Besides, it has the additional advantage of a cluster of delightfully 
 situated medicinal springs, known as Glen Flora Springs, and on this 
 
30 
 
 RAND, McNALLY & CO.'S 
 
 account it has attracted much attention. The ravine where these springs 
 are situated had many natural advantages before the value of the waters 
 was discovered, and since that time the vicinity has been improved in the 
 most artistic manner by landscape architects of great experience and 
 reputation. There is no doubt that it will eventually become one of the 
 most popular resorts of the Northwest, since the cures effected have been 
 so numerous and extraordinary as to attract wide attention throughout the 
 United States. The springs are reached b}'- means of a fine graded road, 
 skirting the bluff, and the surrounding drives and walks are highly beauti- 
 ful. The recent additions to the hotel accommodations are of the best 
 character, and many private families will take summer boarders. The 
 prices range from six to ten dollars per week. 
 
 An annual fair is held on the fair ground back of Waukegan, and 
 this occasion is noticeable for the display of a very interesting collection 
 of agricultural products. One of the best articles exhibited is butter, 
 which has a wide reputation. Indeed, Lake county butter is quite as well 
 known and appreciated in Chicago as Orange county butter is in New 
 York. 
 
 The following analysis of the Glen Flora Mineral Spring water will 
 give a full idea of the constituents of the water. 
 
 One gallon of 231 cubic inches contained — 
 
 GRAINS. 
 
 Chlo'ide of Sodium, (common salt).. .183 
 
 Sulphate of Soda 1.852 
 
 Bicarbouate of Soda - 6.44T 
 
 Bicarbonate of Lime 15.568 
 
 Bicarbonate of Magnesia 11.091 
 
 Bicarbouate of Iron 115 
 
 Alumina 
 
 Silica 
 
 Organic Matter. 
 
 Total.... 
 
 GRAINS. 
 .. .151 
 
 .. .907 
 .. .100 
 
 36.414 
 
 LAKE ZURICH. 
 
 "I have a great deal of pity," siys Ik Marvel, "for those honest 
 but misguided people who call their little towns and spruce suburban 
 villages the countiy." 
 
 "Well, Ik MarveFs bachelor loved nature all alone, without the jang- 
 ling interference of houses, streets and country stores (so-called), and he 
 would have luxuriated in a summer at Lakfe Zurich. It is not well known, 
 and for that reason it is not a crowded place of fashionable resort; yet it 
 is a very favorite place among all who have ever visited it. It is perhaps 
 one of the most charming spots in Illinois, and its attractiveness can 
 hardly be overestimated. It is unfortunate in having been made the 
 bearer of so pretentious a name, and several of its neighboring lakes are 
 fellow sufferers in that respect— Lake Como, for example ; yet for those 
 who desire to go away from the city to a spot where Nature is more near 
 than Art, and where conventionalities are respected only so far as they are 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 
 
 31 
 
 founded upon common sense, there are few more charming places than 
 Lake Zurich. 
 
 Thirty-two miles from Chicago, in Lake county, the passenger leaves 
 the train at Barrington station and takes the stage for a four-mile drive 
 to the lake. Away from the little station, through fields of new-mown 
 
 LINCOLN MONUMENT, SPRINGFIELD, ILL. 
 
 hay or amid the waving crops of early summer, the tired residents of the 
 city speed along and gather new life and spirit all the way ; it is like a 
 breath from Mount Olympus blowing down to earth over the Elysian 
 Fields. 
 
 On arriving at the lake, passengers can take either of two nearly 
 equally popular modes of life ; they can obtain board in hotel or farm 
 
32 RAND, McNALLY & CO.'S 
 
 house, or they can pitch their tents like the Israelites of old, and camp 
 out. The nomadic method is, indeed, becoming so common that many 
 persons now prepare for several weeks of their summering by organizing 
 parties of considerable size for camping out, and these expeditions are 
 sometimes extended through the whole summer. There is probably no 
 way of living which is more thoroughly satisfactory, if the persons of the 
 party are congenial friends, who know how to "rough it" and to keep 
 merry under all difficulties and annoyances. Then, too, there is one im- 
 portant consideration connected with camping out : if the locality should 
 not prove to be an agreeable one, there is no necessity of remaining ; no 
 contract is made to stay anywhere for a stipulated time, and so by packing 
 up the camp equipage and sending it on to a n^-w locality, the party can 
 enjoy the beauties and pleasures of several places during the summer. 
 
 But those who prefer the comforts of a hotel or farm house can be 
 equally well accommodated at Lake Zurich, and can enjoy all the pleasures 
 of country air, food and scenery, combined with the attractions of an 
 agreeable and polished society. The lake is set in a rolling, hilly country, 
 and heavy timber belts surround it, approaching its pebbly shores in many 
 places so as to quite overhang the sparkling waters. No grand nor 
 startling scenery can be found here, but everywhere the landscape is one 
 of soft beauty and picturesque contrasts. There is an air of substantial 
 comfort and even luxury about the farm houses which makes the heart 
 contented and satisfied in merely looking at them ; for one recognizes 
 here that type of American farm life which forms such a bulwark of 
 strength and greatness to the Republic. Looking on such a scene and 
 remembering that it is reproduced in millions of instances throughout the 
 whole country, the good citizen can say, " Civis Americanns sum,'' with 
 a pride equal to that of any Roman in the heyday of Rome's power. 
 Despite the corruption and wickedness of the great cities, which some- 
 times make one despair of the future of the Republic, these peaceful and 
 prosperous agricultural communities will still keep up a standard of belief 
 and morals sufficiently high to neutralize the evil effects of the more 
 brilliant but more dangerous elements of the cities. 
 
 Driving and riding, rowing and sailing, shooting and fishing, walking 
 and swimming, dancing and flirting, are all popular means of enjoyment at 
 Lake Zurich, and the opportunities for all of these pleasures are numerous 
 and convenient. Pickerel and black bass can be taken in large quantities, 
 either with torch and spear at night, or by trolling in the daytime. It is a 
 place where even the hypochondriac forgets for a time his real and 
 imaginary miseries, and joins in the pleasures of society with an unheard- 
 of interest. 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE, 33 
 
 CRYSTAL LAKE. 
 
 This body of water is one of tlie numerous groups of small lakes 
 which are scattered about the northern part of Illinois. It takes its name 
 from the exceptional purity of the water, and this feature is one of the 
 first to be noticed by the visitor. At a depth of thirty feet the ordinary 
 advertisements of a newspaper lying at the bottom can be read, and fre- 
 quently it is impossible for a stranger to believe that the water is more 
 than a few feet deep, when in reality it may be nearly fifty feet to the 
 bottom. The lake is situated only forty-three miles from Chicago, and it 
 is quite a popular resort for Chicago people. It is also the source whence 
 large quantities of ice are obtained, and there are immense ice houses on 
 its banks. The lake itself is about one mile from the nearest railroad 
 station, but the roads are excellent and the drive is a very pleasant one. 
 
 Crystal Lake is better known than many other places nearer to Chi- 
 cago from the fact that it was formerly a very popular place for pic-nics. 
 It became fashionable many years ago, at the time when William B. 
 Ogdeu was president of the North-Western Railway, on account of the 
 private pic-nic parties given there by that gentleman. He was in the habit 
 of giving several such in the course of each summer, providing a special 
 train, music, dancing-floor, boats, etc., and there were usually between 
 two and three hundred invited guests. During the war, it was selected as 
 a recruiting camp for the regular army, but another site nearer Chicago 
 was obtained immediately afterward, and it was abandoned. 
 
 At the present time there are two hotels and several private houses 
 where board can be had for the summer, and there are many visitors who 
 make a habit of going there regularly. The prices vary from five to ten 
 dollars per week, and within those limits almost all varieties of rooms and 
 food may be obtained. The fishing is good in the proper seasons, and 
 there are plenty of boats for hire at all times. 
 
 ELGIN. 
 
 The Bluff" City is the name by which Elgin is frequen+ly known, 
 owing to its site, on and opposite to some bold blufts on the Fox river. 
 It is a thriving, active place, and it has already become the leader in the 
 dairy trade of the Northwest. Indeed, Elgin butter and cheese are rapid- 
 ly acquiring a national reputation, while its markets are daily reported by 
 telegraph in all the leading newspapers of the country. 
 
 The name is taken from the Elgin family of England, one member of 
 which was once a leading property-owner in that viciiiity. There is a 
 jcurious feature of the name, however, which is a source of much surprise 
 
34 
 
 RAND, McXALLY & CO:S 
 
 to Englishmen. The name is here pronounced with a soft g, as if written 
 Eljin, while the English name is pronounced with the g hard, as if writ- 
 ten Elghin. 
 
 The drives about Elgin are very pleasant, particularly that toward 
 Geneva Lake, "Wisconsin, distant about forty-five miles. There is also 
 a well kept road down the Fox river toward Geneva, Illinois, on the west 
 bank of the river ; indeed, most of the ordinary country roads in this sec- 
 tion are of an excellent character in dry weather. There are probably no 
 richer farming communities in the world than those of Northern Illinois, 
 
 VIEW OF ELGIN, ON POX KIVKR, ILL. 
 
 and the farm houses throughout this region are all comfortable, while 
 many are really elegant mansions, having all modern conveniences except 
 gas. On this account many agreeable places to visit for the summer can 
 be found among the farmers at very low rates, and if simple country life 
 is all that is desired, it can be enjoyed as well in the Fox River Valley as 
 in any part of the United States. 
 
 One of the principal points of interest at Elgin is the watch factory, 
 a mammoth establishment, employing several hundred hands, many of 
 whom are women. Here may be seen everj'- step in the construction of a 
 watch, and the whole operation of watch-making by machinery is per- 
 formed. It is a most interesting sight, not only on account of the exact 
 manner in which the machinery performs work of the most varied and 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 35 
 
 delicate character, but on account of the rapidity and dexterity of the 
 operators. 
 
 The Asylum for the Insane of Northern Illinois, an institution main- 
 tained by the State, is also situated near Elgin, and it is a most interesting 
 though painful place to visit. There are often more than two hundred 
 patients under treatment at once, the cases varying from the mildest form 
 of monomania to the most aggravated cases of violent insanity. The 
 building is quite imposing, and the grounds are handsomely laid out and 
 well kept. 
 
 The hotels of Elgin are in the style of old fashioned country inns, 
 where primitive habits and simple but wholesome fare abound. 
 
 ST. CHARLES. 
 
 About five miles below Elgin, on the west bank of the Fox river, is 
 the village of St. Charles. Its scenery and surroundings are quite similar 
 to those of Elgin, though perhaps its river front is rather the more pic- 
 turesque of the two. 
 
 St. Charles is the fortunate possessor of a genuine sibyl, who tells 
 fortunes and reads the pa^t or future with equal skill. She is 'a pleasant 
 old woman, with none of the vulgar greed and disagreeable suiToundings 
 which usually characterize the trade. She makes a charge for telling the 
 fortunes of such as come to her, but she does not advertise for customers 
 nor profess to cure diseases. Those who visit her are not solicited to 
 employ her, but she is always quite willing to show her skill when asked. 
 While telling a fortune, she goes into a species of trance, during which she 
 speaks a sort of broken English, as if she were an Indian squaw. Many 
 persons who have visited her have been much surprised at the truthfulness 
 of her replies as to the past, and there have been several instances also 
 where her predictions have been fully realized. 
 
 Cheap and pleasant board can easily be found in and near St. Charles 
 during the summer season. 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 Still farther south of Elgin, on the Fox river, is the little town of 
 Geneva, the county seat of Kane county. Its situation on the west bank 
 of the river is an exceedingly pleasant one, and the town itself is one of 
 the prettiest in Illinois. It is only thirty-eight miles from Chicago, and 
 is easily accessible from the great Western metropolis; on this account 
 many professional men who really belong to Chicago have their homes in 
 Geneva, and the society is, therefore, very agreeable. It is a quiet, rest- 
 ful place, where there is a perpetual air of a New England Sunday after- 
 noon. No one hurries or seems excited about anything. 
 
36 RAND, McNALLY & CO:S 
 
 On warm summer days the shaded streets are cool and quiet ; nothing^ 
 is astir perhaps for hours except on one or two of the business corners and 
 about the ugly court house, which occupies a public square. The very 
 dogs and chickens seem indisposed to any undue exertion, and even the 
 croquet lawns in numerous private grounds are deserted. There is a sort 
 of natural atmosphere of dolce far niente about the whole place, w^hich is 
 extremel}'- grateful to people who have been working or pleasure seeking 
 on the high pressure plan for seven or eight months of city. life. Toward 
 evening everything is gay and active, however, and the scene on the 
 arrival of the evening train is quite like that at many Eastern resorts. 
 
 There are many pleasant places where board can be obtained at prices 
 varying from five to nine dollars. 
 
 BATAYIA. 
 
 Another pleasant spot on the Fox river is Batavia, about four miles 
 below Geneva. The river banks are heavily wooded, and the rocky 
 ledges where the stone quarries are situated give a number of picturesque 
 and attractive views. Batavia is a very active manufacturing town, and 
 the water-power is one of the best on the river. The whirr of the ma- 
 chinerj'' of the different large establishments can be heard all da}^, and the 
 aspect of the place is that of a very energetic, busy manufacturing cen- 
 tre. On this account, the village itself is not as agreeable as the hand- 
 some places scattered along the river near by, some of which are models 
 for country homes. 
 
 Board is cheap and good, but there are not many places where it can 
 be obtained. 
 
 McHENRY. 
 
 About sixty miles from Chicago, on the Fox river, which flows north 
 through Wisconsin, is situated the town of McHenry. The surface in the 
 vicinity is more hilly than that of almost any other part of Illinois ; hence 
 those who prefer this style of scenery will here find a congenial location. 
 The rolling hills are heavily timbered, and there are many abrupt and 
 rocky glens, which add greatly to the variety of the scenery. 
 
 About six miles north of McHenry are four connected lakes, which 
 can be reached by driving or by taking a small passenger steamer, which 
 runs regularly on the river during the summer. These lakes are deep 
 and clear, and they are beautifully dotted over with small islands, which 
 make delightful places for pic-nic parties. 
 
 The roads are good country turnpikes. On the lakes there are plenty 
 of boats for either rowing or sailing, and the fishing is excellent. Board 
 can be obtained at many farm houses, the living being simple but good, 
 and the prices reasonable. 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE, . 37 
 
 CHAPTER lY, 
 
 MILWAUKEE — RACINE — KENOSHA — SHEBOYGAN — ELKHART — 
 GREEN BAY. 
 
 MILWAUKEE. 
 
 The history of Milwaukee, like that of Chicago, is too brief to con- 
 tain much of interest. The earliest settlement by white men dates back 
 no farther than 1818, when Solomon Juneau established a trading-post 
 there. For seventeen years he was the only white settler, and the appear- 
 ance of the site now occupied by Milwaukee was different in no essential 
 respect from that which nature had made it. The lake bluffs were heav- 
 ily wooded, while the low ground, where the Milwaukee river forced its 
 way through to the lake, was covered with dense underbrush. There 
 were numerous villages of Indians in the vicinity, and their bark tents 
 could be seen dotting the landscape in all directions. As yet no richly 
 laden vessels had fretted with their eager keels the bosom of the harbor, 
 and there were no indications that one day there would be such enormous 
 shipments of grain therefrom as to make this port one of the most impor- 
 tant wheat and flour markets of the world. 
 
 The commercial advantages of the place were soon recognized, how- 
 .ever, and its growth has been very rapid. Situated only eight}'- five miles 
 from Chicago, it is, of course, rather overshadowed by the latter named 
 city, and Milwaukee is not generally appreciated properly on that ac- 
 count. Aside from its size, population, wealth and commercial impor- 
 tance, it has many attractions which need only to be seen to be enjoyed. 
 
 The situation on the west shore of Lake Michigan at the mouth of the 
 Milwaukee river, is one specially adapted to the needs of commerce, 
 while at the same time no more healthful site could be found. The 
 shore of the lake is lined with abrupt bluffs, and an elevated plateau is 
 •thus provided on each side of the river for the residence portions of the 
 city. The entrance to the river from the lake is protected by bold head- 
 lands forming quite a sheltered outside harbor, and the river front affords 
 ample dockage room for several miles. The low parts of the city along 
 the river banks are thus well fitted for business purposes, as there are no 
 heavy grades to make teaming difllcult. 
 
 There are two nearly equally desirable residence sites in Milwaukee, 
 one being on the bluffs overlooking the lake on the east side of the river, 
 and the other being on the plateau on the west bank. The principal 
 
38 
 
 RAND, 3fcNALLY & CO.\S 
 
 thoroughfare on the west side is Spring street, beginning at the river and 
 running back several miles. It rises gradually to a height whence 
 the whole lower part of the city can be seen spread out below, and 
 at this point the handsome residences and churches begin to be 
 noticeable. There is no finer street in the West, and the grounds and 
 buildings are evidences of both wealth and taste. Among the palatial 
 homes surrounded by well-kept parks and pleasure grounds, the residence 
 of Alexander Mitchell, a well-known banker and railroad president, is 
 especially worthy of notice, while there are many others equally taste- 
 ful and elegant, though of less extent. 
 
 MILWAUKEE PREVIOUS TO 1835. 
 
 Spring street is one of the favorite drives of Milwaukee, owing to the 
 excellent quality of the pavement, and also to the attractiveness of the 
 scenery. Passing the stone quarries far out beyond the limits, many per- 
 sons drive over to the United States Soldiers' Home, a national institu- 
 tion for the benefit of disabled soldiers. The grounds surrounding the 
 Home are laid out in the highest style of landscape gardening, and they 
 are kept with scrupulous neatness and taste. The government of the 
 Home is strictly military, and the large number of disabled veterans 
 who here find a congenial abiding place, is suflicient evidence of the use- 
 fulness and value of the institution. The military concerts during the 
 summer evenings make this beautiful park a very popular place of resort. 
 Indeed, so numerous and enjoyable are the entertainments given by the 
 inmates of the Home, that it is a very important feature of attraction in 
 the society of Milwaukee. 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 39 
 
 One of the most distinguislied guests of the Home is the war eagle, 
 ** Old Abe," a bird who achieved greatness duringthe war of the rebellion 
 as the constant companion of the Eighth Regiment of Wisconsin Volun- 
 teers. This noble specimen of the American Eagle was carried by the 
 color-guard of the regiment, perched on a color staflf, and he was an 
 active participant in all of the important battles and many minor skirmishes 
 in which the regiment was engaged. He w^as especially noticeable at the 
 battle of Corinth, Tennessee, w^hen he flew above the heads of the men 
 during the whole action. His bold flights, coupled with his evident 
 enjoyment of the noise of the battle and the whistle of the hostile missiles, 
 aided largely in encouraging the Union troops. " Old Abe " can be seen 
 at anytime at the Home, where he is a most honored and admired guest. 
 
 Another delightful drive is along Lake avenue to Whitefish Bay. 
 This drive is often favorably compared with the famous Shell Road at 
 Kew Orleans, and there are few places in the country which can equal it. 
 The drive skirts the lake shore for about flve miles, passing through Lake 
 View, Fern Brae, Lake Dells, and Rocky Point, which are composed of 
 beautiful suburban villas. The road is mostly along the verge of the bluffs 
 north of the city, and as these are thickly wooded, the drive is sufficiently 
 shaded to be very comfortable even in midsummer. As it winds along 
 the coast, there are beautiful and varied scenes continually coming into 
 view ; the broad expanse of blue water, where hundreds of white-sailed 
 craft plow the waves of Lake Michigan, will open at one moment, 
 while at the next all will be shut in by the overshadowing trees, except, 
 perhaps, an extended vista down some long avenue, where, through a 
 delicate frame work of tremulous foliage, a summer house may be seen 
 half buried in flowers and shrubbery ; or, ^gain, the carriage passes over 
 a bridged ravine leading down to the lake shore, and at the foot are sea- 
 side cottages with boats and bathing-houses dotting the sandy beach. 
 
 One of these charming beach resorts is Lake Dells, which can not be 
 surpassed by anything at Cape May or Long Branch. The natural beau- 
 lies of the spot have been judiciously heightened by art, and it is voted 
 to be a gem of a summering-place by every visitor. The beach is of 
 pure white sand, and the descent into deep water is so gradual that no 
 danger need be apprehended from surf-bathing even in the heaviest 
 breakers. The average temperature of the water in this shallow bay, as 
 determined by the record of several years, is between 68° and 72° Fahr. 
 It IS said that, whether owing to the lake breezes or to some other cause, 
 there are few or no mosquitos found in the vicinity during the summer. 
 
 The general appearance of Milwaukee is highly agreeable, owing 
 partly to the prevalent use of a light straw-colored brick for building pur- 
 poses ; on this account it is often known as the Cream Cit}'. The manu- 
 factories are generally situated at some distance from the resident and 
 retail business portions, so that there is no great amount of black smoke 
 
40 
 
 EAXI), McXALLY & CO.\S 
 
 to tarnish and soil the buildings ; hence there is a noticeable cleanliness 
 about the whole place, which is very refreshing after seeing the smoke- 
 begrimed streets of Chicago, St. Louis, and Cincinnati. Several of the 
 business blocks show architectural ability of a high order. The city 
 water-works and the surrounding grounds are quite a pleasant spot to 
 visit, as they are very commendable monuments of engineering skill. 
 
 As a place of summer resort, Milwaukee will ho.d its own with many 
 places which make greater claims to notice. The cool and refreshino- 
 breezes from Lake Michigan make it an u icommonly healthy place. 
 There are several fashionable water-cure establishments, where the springs 
 
 LAKE DELLS, MILWAUKEE. 
 
 have a considerable reputation among physicians and invalids, and these 
 are rapidl}^ becoming better known. The hotel accommodations are of 
 the best character, and permanent board can be obtained in many private 
 families at reasonable rates. Those who desire a combination of city and 
 watering-place life, will be obliged to search for some time before they 
 find a place superior to the Cream City . 
 
 RACINE, KENOSHA. 
 
 The lake ports are generally quiet places, with little of special interest 
 to furnish the traveler with excitement or amusement. They remind one 
 strongly of some of the quiet places along the sea-coast of Massachusetts, 
 New Hampshire and Maine. There is an air of freshness mingled with 
 one of age, which often come into marked contrast with each other, and 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 41 
 
 create a variety of impressions relative to the character of the places. 
 There seems to be something of an inherent conservatism about sailors, 
 which is apparent in all the localities where they most do congregate. 
 They do not adopt new ideas quickly, but that w^hich has become estab- 
 lished is always preferable to that which has not yet been thoroughly tested. 
 Their policy is not unlike that of the old lady who refused to let her boys 
 go into the water until they knew how to swim. Hence, the character- 
 istics of small sea-side ports are not at all similar to those of the large 
 cities, where iconoclasm is rampant and the invention of to-day pushes 
 that of yesterday into the background as ancient and comparatively 
 valueless. 
 
 . This restful, satisfying atmosphere is peculiarly agreeable to tired 
 people from the city. The mere absence of street sounds — the hum and 
 bustle of business and the thousand distractions of metropolitan life — gives 
 a sense of repose and comfort to the person whose nerves are shattered by 
 continuous labor, for which one is very grateful. Racine is a well-built 
 city of a population of about 15,000 inhabitants. It is the site of Racine 
 College, an educational institution of considerable note. Lake Michigan, 
 viewed from the cottages and other tree-embowered residences along the 
 principal residence streets, presents a panorama of endless variety and 
 beauty. The lake at this point is exceedingly aggressive in its action 
 upon the shore, and large portions of the lake front are annually washed 
 away. The absorption of land by the lake has become a serious matter 
 with the inhabitants, and many plans have been devised to stop the 
 action of the water or to protect the shore line, but as yet none have 
 proved practicable. Indeed, it is claimed by many scientific men tliat 
 the wearing process will go on until the whole of the present site of 
 Racine will be washed away ; this does not seem probable, however — at 
 least, not in the immediate future'. 
 
 Racine is not a place of many special attractions, yet it has a fair 
 share of summer visitors, who, having become acquainted with the place, 
 are well satisfied to return annually. It is a healthy, cheerful, and highly 
 moral town, so that many families having young children prefer it to the 
 fashionable resorts, or to farmhouse life in the country. 
 
 The aspect and general characteristics of Kenosha are quite similar 
 to those of Racine, and the society in both places is equally hospitable, 
 agreeable and entertaining. The country round about is a pleasant, roll- 
 ing, timber land, and the roads are usually very good, so that walking aud 
 driving may be enjoyed during the whole summer. Its situation on the 
 lake shore is very conducive to cool weather in the hot season, and it is 
 a rare occurrence when the nights are so warm as to interfere with com- 
 fortable sleeping. 
 
 An excellent seminary for young ladies is located in this neighbor- 
 hood, situated on quite a high piece of ground, and many of the fair 
 
43 
 
 RAND, McNALLY & CO:S 
 
XORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 43 
 
 students are in the habit of passing a portion of the summer vacation in 
 Kenosha, instead of going home. There are several private families 
 where board can be obtained for the summer, and the rates are unusually 
 low. All kinds of vegetables and fruits are plentiful in their season, 
 and the general market is excellent. 
 
 SHEBOYGAN. 
 
 Among the ports of Lake Michigan there are none superior to 
 Sheboygan as a place of summer resort. It combines so many points of 
 attraction that it is not strange that the yearly mflux of visitors should be 
 greater and greater. As it can be reached from Chicago and Milwaukee 
 by either railroad or steamer, the tourist has full opportunity to view its 
 natural advantages for the first time, either from the lake approach or 
 from the windows of a drawing room car, flying through the beautiful 
 landscapes which environ it. 
 
 Sheboygan is situated at the mouth of the Sheboygan river, which 
 flows down a very fertile and picturesque valley, and after wind- 
 iug around two sides of the bluft" on which the best portion of the 
 city is built, empties into the lake. The site of the city is admirably 
 adapted to make it a delightful place in summer, as it is at the end of a 
 point which projects several miles into the lake, and the lake breezes thus 
 have full play over the city. This point, it should be remarked, is not a 
 long, narrow projection, but the extremity of a gradual bulge of the 
 shore line into the lake. 
 
 There are opportunities in and about Sheboygan for nearly every 
 variety of out-door amusement. The great lake washes it on the east, 
 and aff'ords the most ample facilities for fishing and yachting. Indeed, 
 the fisheries are among the most important of the State, several steam 
 yachts being engaged in the business. During most of the summer the 
 lake is very placid, or, when visited by storms, there is early warning of 
 their approach ; hence no sport is more exhilarating than a day's cruise 
 in one of the numerous small yachts. 
 
 When a stiff", steady wind blows off" shore, there is a freedom and 
 pleasure in dashing through the emerald colored water which must be 
 participated in to be appreciated. The sea is not high enough to be 
 uncomfortable, and, with all sail set, the boat scuds along like a racer. 
 It is a " soldier s wind," as the sailors call it, for sailing either up or down 
 the shore is equally possible, and one can run down to White Fish Bay, 
 near Milwaukee, or up to Manitowoc, the former being about forty-five 
 and the latter twenty-five miles distant. The river affords an admirable 
 place for rowing, and pleasure boats of all kinds can be hired at very 
 reasonable rates. 
 
 The drives around Sheboygan are not numerous, but from the city to 
 
44 HAXD, McXALLY iS^ CO/S 
 
 Sheboygan Falls, along the river, the road and the scenery arc very line. 
 The road winds up and down the rolling hills by easy grades, and skirts 
 the river bank very closely for live miles. A large portion of it is 
 delightfully shaded by forest trees, so that even in the warmest weather 
 it is not unpleasant. Indeed, the same may be said of the city, also, 
 where most of the streets are jileasantly shaded, and the weather is rarely 
 oppressive. It is due to this equable climate that Sheboygan is regarded 
 as so desirable a summer resort, since there are very few days when the 
 air is dead, sultry and enervating. 
 
 There are several fine churches, nearly all denominations being 
 represented, and some of the preachers have a wide reputation as men of 
 learning and eloquence. The societ}'- is more than usuall}' attractive, the 
 people being natural, unpretentious and hospitable. There are many 
 entertainments given throughout the year, and during the summer there 
 is a continual round of gayety. 
 
 There are two excellent hotels and several pleasant boarding houses. 
 The market contains ever^'thiug to be found in the largest cities, and 
 the best living can be had at reasonable prices. Permanent board may- 
 be obtained at prices var3ing between six and twelve dollars per week. 
 
 ELKHART. 
 
 Among the picturesque and attractive spots of Wisconsin, Elkhart 
 Lake is one of the favorites with a large class of visitors. It is a restful 
 place ; there are so many vistas of quiet beauty opening from its pebbly 
 shores, that the eye never becomes wearied ; and there are no bold con- 
 trasts nor barren heaps of scarred rocks thrown up in rugged outlines to 
 excite the mind to continued admiration and surprise. 
 
 Here the man of tired brain can come and contemplate the loveliest 
 pictures in Nature's kaleidoscope without undergoing a constant mental 
 strain, as is often the case in the vicinity of the grander and more impres- 
 sive scenery of the mountains. Here is-all the soft, quiet beauty of roll- 
 ing hill, dell and woodland ; through the pines, elms and maples, broad 
 bands of summer sunlight fall upon the cone-sprinkled greensward, and, 
 in the background, glimpses of blue Mater, dimpled by light breezes or 
 flecked with the foam of a strong gale, may be obtained as the bays and 
 reaches of the lake are brought into view. The lake is very irregular in 
 outline, and as one drifts idly down its surface in a boat, the inlets and 
 deep stretches of water penetrating the wooded banks are full of 
 atti-action and novelty. 
 
 The lishing is excellent, and the black bass caught here are said to be 
 unequaled among the game tish of the "West. There is also good shoot- 
 ing, during the proper seasons, all around the lake, and many sportsmen, 
 who wish to enjoy both lishing and shooting, make this vicinity their 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST OUIDE. 
 
 45 
 
 headquarters. There are ample boating facilities, and the residents of 
 the cottages spend a large portion of their time upon the water. 
 
 As a quiet spot for a family, Elkhart has peculiar attractions. It is not 
 an ultra fashionable watering place, yet neither is it devoid of society ; 
 and many parents, who wish their children to enjoy out-door life and 
 pure air during the summer months, prefer to visit such a place as this 
 rather than to take them to more fashionable and expensive resorts. 
 Comfort, health and pleasure are thus atYorded to all members of the 
 family, and they return to the city in the .fall ready for business, for 
 studies, and for the usual round of social entertainments. 
 
 ELKHART LAKE. WIS. 
 
 A beautiful little steamer plies on the lake, and excursion parties 
 frequently charter it to explore the shores more eflectively than can be 
 done iu a small boat. The hotel accommodations are good, and every 
 variety of in-door and out -door amusements is provided. There are also 
 numennis farm houses around the lake, where board for the summer can 
 be obtained at prices ranging from six to nine dollars. 
 
46 RAND, McXALLY & CO:S 
 
 GHEEN BAY. 
 
 One of the oldest cities in Wisconsin, or, indeed, in the West, is Green 
 Bay, situated at the head of Green Bay, an arm of Lake Micliigan. The 
 site of tlie city is a point of land included between Fox river and East 
 river, both of which are wide and deep streams, the Fox being about 
 fifteen hundred feet wide and about thirty feet deep. The bay gradually 
 expands to a width of over fifteen miles, affording ample opportunities for 
 yachting. Along the eastern shore of the bay are several small villages 
 which are favorite resorts of the sportsmen. who seek either fish or game, 
 and a line of steamers runs between Green Bay and these points. There 
 are also man}'- private j^achts owned in Green Bay, which ply upon the 
 waters of the river and the bay. 
 
 The city is laid out with the rectangular preciseness of Philadelphia, 
 the streets being broad,, straight and clean. The resident portions are 
 shaded by numbers of fine trees, which form an almost complete arcade 
 of green foliage across the driveways. The city is remarkably cool and 
 pleasant in summer, owing to its situation, and the health of the place is 
 excellent. Most of the drinking water is supplied by artesian wells, or by 
 clear, cold springs, which give a quality of water seldom found elsewhere. 
 The population is about fifteen thousand, and the society is very 
 agreeable. 
 
 Some of the drives along the Fox river and down the shores of the 
 bay are of the finest character, and delightfully varied and picturesque 
 scenery may be found by driving in almost any direction from the cit3\ 
 There are numerous excellent beaches for bathing, and pleasure boats, 
 both for rowing and sailing, can be hired by the day or season at very 
 reasonable rates. Indeed, one of the most popular amusements consists 
 in boating and fishing parties, some of which last for several days, during 
 which time the pleasures of camping-out are indulged in. There are few 
 better places for the enjoyment of aquatic sports than Green Bay and its 
 surroundings. 
 
 The regular visitors hitherto during the summer have largely come 
 from St. Louis, but the city is rapidly growing in general favor witk 
 people from every portion of the West and South. There are several good 
 hotels whose rates for regular board range from nine to seventeen dollars 
 per week, while there are private families who take boarders at very 
 reasonable prices. 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 47 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 BARABOO - DEVIL'S LAKE — MADISON — KILBOURN CITY — PRAIRIE 
 DU CHIEN - SPARTA — EAU CLAIRE — CHIPPEWA FALLS. 
 
 BARABOO. 
 
 The great variety of individual tastes makes it impossible that one 
 style of scenery and pleasures should please all persons, and we find that 
 those who pine for the hills will not be content with the plains, nor those 
 who desire aquatic sports be satisfied with the mountains. Fortunately 
 all tastes may be gratified if the right places are visited, though there are 
 many who imagine that there is nothing in the West except treeless plains 
 and tempestuous lakes. The great mountains, it is true, are far distant, 
 but the peculiar formation of one portion of the surface of Wisconsin 
 offers almost exactly the same conditions of scenery as are to be found 
 in the fashionable mountain resorts, except in the matter of extreme 
 heights and depths. 
 
 The bluffs of Wisconsin consist of heavy masses of rock, towering 
 above the surrounding country to the height of more than six hundred 
 feet. They cut their way through the fertile country adjoining, as if they 
 had been forced up like a huge knife-blade, and they form an elevated 
 plateau of varying width running for many miles through the centre of 
 the State. At the edge of these bluffs is situated the little town of 
 Baraboo, named after the Indian village which formerly occupied the site. 
 It is a pleasant little spot nestling in the hills, having the thrifty air of 
 a New England village, with also the frank hospitality of the West. For 
 those who wish absolute quiet and rest from the distractions of business, 
 such a spot presents great attractions. The many secluded nooks in the 
 woods and under the shadow of the overhanging rocks afford a delightful 
 retreat during the glowing days of summer, while the atmosphere and the 
 general climatic influences are better than any medicine. 
 
 The pure air, spring water and out-door life, which visitors here so 
 freely indulge in, act like Nature's own tonics upon constitutions 
 enfeebled by overwork, and, at the close of a season spent in this quiet 
 village, the mind and body are equally prepared to renew the struggle 
 with the world. 
 
 This is one of the places which are best fitted to give rest to the tired 
 soul ; the fluttering extravagance of a fashionable watering-place is 
 absent, and when the gay butterflies of the great cities do come here, it is 
 
48 RAND, McNALLY & CO.'S 
 
 to recuperate for the next winter's campaign. As one saunters down the 
 neat, tree-lined streets and out into the wooded hills which surround the 
 town, he sees enough pleasant society on the lawns and in the orchards 
 to recognize the presence of many agreeable people, without feeling any 
 sense of oppressive ceremony in meeting them. Simple meals, simple 
 pleasures and simple habits are the custom, and, in consequence, the cost 
 of living is not high. The hotel accommodations are ample, and there 
 are many private families where board can be had at from five to eight 
 dollars per week. 
 
 The town is situated only three miles from a much more noted sum- 
 mer resort, Devil's Lake, and visitors at Baraboo can enjoy frequent trips 
 to that remarkable place. Few spots more picturesquely beautiful can 
 be found in this country. 
 
 DEVIL'S LAKE. 
 
 It is a prevalent opinion that the truly picturesque and grand can be 
 found only in the mountainous scenery of the East or the Far West, and 
 that the region between the Alleghenies and Rocky Mountains has few or 
 no spots to compare with the rugged grandeur and sublime views of the 
 highlands. 
 
 "There are bits of woodland and rolling country through Ohio, 
 Michigan, Illinois and Wisconsin, which present dissolving pictures and 
 vistas full of a soft, pastoral beauty," people say, " but there is nothing 
 really powerful, grand and inspiring to be found outside of the great 
 mountain ranges." 
 
 This idea is what tempts the Eastern-born residents of the West to 
 make annual pilgrimages back to the hills and rocks of their childhood 
 at a vast expense of money and trouble, only to return in the autumn with 
 an indefinable sensation that after all, " le jeu ne vaut pas la chandelle.'" 
 Tet the yearning for hill and valley, for cliff and waterfall, for the cold 
 spring flowing from the lichen-covered rocks, for the pines and the hem- 
 locks, where the cones and spines fall among moss and honeysuckle vines, 
 for the romantic nooks aud sleepy hollows — in short, for all the sharp 
 contrasts which go to make the mountain woodlands so grateful to us 
 who have long been accustomed to the monotony of the prairies— this 
 yearning is natural and its gratification desirable if it can be effected 
 without too great a sacrifice of other pleasures and comforts of life. But 
 to many, a journey to the White Mountains or to the Berkshire Hills, or 
 to AVestern Massachusetts, with perhaps a numerous family of children, 
 is too much of an undertaking ; they resign themselves to the inevitable, 
 and pass years without gratifying their craving for the wooded hills. 
 
 Yet here in Wisconsin, accessible by rail in a few hours' ride from 
 Chicago, is a spot which has few superiors for weird and picturesque 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 
 
 49 
 
 iDeauty. "The Devil's Lake " is the ominous name given by the aborigines 
 to this sunken basin, and truly the place seems to have been created 
 under a different agency from that of the surrounding beautiful country. 
 The whole vicinity of the lake appears to have been either forced up 
 or dropped down among the smiling valleys and wood-crowned hills, like 
 a dash of molten metal in a parterre of flowers. The bluffs of the Wis- 
 
 PYRA3IID KOCK, DEVIL'S LAKE, WIS. 
 
 consin are over six hundred feet high here, and in this elevated plateau, 
 which cuts its way through the centre of the State, the lake is imbedded 
 like a sunken pitfall more than four hundred feet below the surface. 
 Almost straight down from the rocky verge the crystal waters lie, sur- 
 rounded by towering clifls thrown into every conceivable variety of form 
 and outline. The level of the lake is nearly two hundred feet above the 
 Wisconsin river, while the depth of the water shows that its bed is even 
 below that of the river. Its very existence is a mystery; no large stream 
 supplies it with water, nor does any kpown outlet carry off its superfluous 
 
50 RAND, McNALLY d: CO:S 
 
 accretions. It is sufficient unto itself, and it may be that the secret of its 
 hidden springs and its subterranean outlets will never be discovered. 
 
 But not alone as a natural phenomenon does it invite attention. As a 
 spot of rare beauty and attraction it can challenge comparison with any- 
 thing in the way of natural scenery to be found east of the valley of the 
 Yosemite in California. It is a small affair, being about half a mile wide 
 and three times that distance long, yet around its shores are enough novel- 
 ties and contrasts to charm the visitor for months at a time. Indeed, it 
 is a place of surprises and enchantments, and as the tourist returns 
 season after season, he finds new places for exploration every da3^ Rocks 
 are heaped together in such fantastic confusion as to create continuous 
 wonder and admiration, and it is impossible to become satiated or even 
 satisfied in opening up new ravines, gorges and quiet nooks. 
 
 It is a spot for artists and art-lovers ; Nature's eternal variety here 
 seems to cover such an infinite expanse. From the quiet beauty and 
 quaint picturesqueness of an almost European vineyard to the grand out- 
 lines of scarred cliffs and rugged gorges, every form of scenery may here 
 be found. There is, indeed, an atmosphere and a look about the locality 
 which is foreign to most Americans. As the traveler approaches from 
 the south, he passes a nook which has apparently been transplanted from 
 some warm Italian mountain side, Mhere the ripe grapes cluster in the 
 sunshine and draw the nectar of the gods therefrom. It is a vineyard 
 which thrives in its sheltered corner against the great walls of rock in a 
 truly marvelous manner. Though e'cvated so far above the surrounding 
 country, the atmosphere is soft, balmy and dreamy, imbued with the 
 dolcefar niente of the tender skies of Nice and Naples ; yet it is not an 
 oppressive warmth, even in the hottest midsummer days, but is tempered 
 by a generous breeze, which constantly fans the face of the lake from one 
 of the deep ravines to the other at each end of the chasm. 
 
 The railroad enters through one of these ravines, and, passing along 
 the edge of the lake over a bed blasted mostly from the solid rock, it 
 makes its exit at the opposite end, at the only other spot where the face 
 of the high wall has been broken down by Mother Nature. Nearly mid- 
 way it passes the door of a Swiss chalet, which presents a beautiful picture 
 against the dark evergreens rising back of it. This is the Cliff House, a 
 most charming place of summer resort, and one which presents so many 
 advantages to the traveler as to give it the reputation of a model summer 
 hotel. 
 
 One of the striking features of the lake is the purity of the water. 
 It seems absolutely free from any species of sediment, and the shores are 
 as clear as the middle, no scum or other filth being thrown up. The fish, 
 of which there are great numbers, are always plump and lively, and, at 
 the proper seasons, the sport of catching them affords daily amusement to 
 the visitors. A small steamer plies on the lake for the benefit of excursion 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 51 
 
 parties, and small boats are numerous. The facilities for bathing are of 
 the most satisfactory character, as there are two long beaches of soft, 
 white sand sloping off very gradually to any desired depth. The amuse- 
 ments at the hotel include every kind of watering-place entertainment, 
 and the best society of the Northwest is beginning to appreciate the 
 luxury of having such a gem of a summer resort so near its doors. 
 
 It is only during the last two or three years that the fashionable world 
 has recognized the attractions of Devil's Lake, possibly because they have 
 been so little known. But, as its fame has gone forth in Chicago, St. 
 Louis and other Western cities, the number of yearly visitors has con- 
 stantly increased, until the society there assembled for the summer is 
 now almost excessively large in numbers, while it bids fair to be cosmo- 
 politan in character. Here one meets not only the wealthy and fashion- 
 able, who give a gayety and abandon to the daily life, characteristic of 
 Newport, Nahant and the White Mountains, but also a high class of cul- 
 tivated men and women who break away from the stiff constraints of a city 
 life to enjoy the pure air and laissez aller of the country, untrammeled by 
 the eternal considerations of dress and appearances. Indeed, one has the 
 happy privilege of wearing just exactly what one wishes ; for whether he 
 or she prefers the ravishing toilets of society's victims or the simple 
 costumes appropriate to an out-door life in the woods and on the lake, 
 there will be plenty of each variety to keep company. 
 
 Drifting about in the evening upon the motionless waters of the lake, 
 which reflect the stars above like an -inverted firmament, the laughter, 
 music and songs of those on the shore come floating to one's ears only 
 to be re-echoed by the opposite cliffs; and, glancing around, as the moon 
 perhaps just rises in mellow splendor over the summit of some fantastic 
 pile of rocks, one could almost imagine that this was the Happy Valley 
 of Rasselas. 
 
 Or, at sunset in the early autumn, when the woods are aglow with 
 all the brilliant colors laid on by the Master Artist, there is no spot in the 
 Western country which can more fully than this awaken the love of 
 Nature, Art and Poetry. The curious conformations of the rocks cause 
 them to appear like ruined towers and citadels, so that one's mind almost 
 irresistibly reverts to those exquisite lines of Tennyson: 
 
 " The splendor falls on castle walls 
 
 And snowy summits old in story; 
 The long light shakes across the lakes, 
 
 And the wild cataract leaps in glory. 
 Blow, bugle, blow, set the wild echoes flying : 
 Blow, bugle; answer, echoes dying, dying, dying." 
 
 In the days when Devil's Lake was first visited by summer tourists 
 there were occasional complaints that there were too many rattlesnakes 
 in that vicinity to make it a very desirable place in which to spend the sum- 
 
52 RAND, McNALLY & CO:S 
 
 mer. This objection has been met by the residents thereabout in the most 
 sensible, manner- organized parties have made frequent raids upon the 
 snakes until they are now as rare as sharks on the Newport beach» Dur- 
 ing the winter and early spring, while the snakes are either torpid or 
 just beginning to crawl, they are hunted down and destroyed all around 
 the lake, so that during the summer a large reward for every snake cap- 
 tured might be offered without risking much money. 
 
 An attempt has been made to re-christen the lake. "With the same 
 idea which led Martin Luther to set a number of hymns to very lively 
 airs because he did not wish the devil to monopolize nil the good tunes, 
 a number of worthy people have tried to name the lake " Spirit Lake," 
 thus hoping to retain some vestige of the present name, (inasmuch as the 
 devil is supposed to be a bad spirit) while at the same time obviating the 
 necessity of referring to Satan himself whenever they mention the place 
 where they spend their summers. Whether this sensitiveness arises from 
 the idea that his name should not be spoken to ears polite, or from the 
 fear that the}^ may become too familiar with him and thus perhaps be 
 led to use his name in a different connection, is not known; but the 
 objection to the present name is not founded on very weighty reasons, 
 and it is not probable that the locality will ever be known otherwise than 
 as " The Devil's Lake." 
 
 MADISON. 
 
 Few watering places combine attractions so numerous and so oppo- 
 site in character as those which distinguish Madison, the capital of Wis- 
 consin. Its very aspect is different from that of most Western towns: 
 you miss — gratefully miss — their newness, their bustle, their rattle 
 and their stir. Madison seems old, tranquil, dignified; a cool, serene 
 atmosphere, favorable to meditation, pervades the place— blows down, 
 perhaps, from the classic shades of its University on the hill; the stones 
 which lead up to the door of many a pleasant home are of an ancient 
 gray, and moss-grown. So are the stone fences around the well-kept 
 farms of its environs. Nobody dashes or rushes or pants about the streets. 
 Thoughtfully the students stroll up and down, revolving Greek roots and 
 Latin particles; with deliberate tread the merchants seek their stores; 
 the officials and government employes pursue the noiseless tenor of their 
 way to the capitol, with its white dome and pleasant grounds and the 
 summer visitors lounge about with the supreme egoism p^^ssible only to 
 tourists, as if all the town and the people were part of a show organized 
 and exhibited for their especial benefit and amusement. If you are fond 
 of company you will find enough at the Vilas House, or the Park Hotel. 
 St. Louis folks, placid and careless, who have settled down comfortably 
 for the summer; Chicago people, eager and vivacious, "on the wing," as 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 
 
 53 
 
 usual; with a sprinkling of travelers from the far East. If you want the 
 alternatives of retirement and gayety you can cross Lake Monona and 
 take board at the Lakeside House, the old Water-Cure. Here, you can 
 sit under one of the trees on the lawn, looking out on the blue lake with its 
 fringing willows, quite as if you were " out of the world," until you sud- 
 denly recollect an errand in Madison. You go to the little landing and 
 wave a handkerchief, and in a few minutes, as if by magic, over comes 
 the little propeller Scutanabequou, (familiarly called "The Skoot") 
 puffing and 
 blowing and 
 throwing off 
 steam, and so 
 you glide away 
 to the cit}'. 
 This is the 
 great charm of 
 Madison — you 
 can be in the 
 world and out 
 of the world so 
 easily. The 
 four lakes on 
 which the city 
 is built afford 
 endless diver- 
 sion to those 
 who delight in 
 water sports. 
 You can hire a 
 boat by the 
 day, the week, 
 or the season, 
 and, in the 
 
 THE JAWS OP THE DELLS, NEAK KILBOURN CITY. 
 
 cool, bright mornings, go out trolling for pickerel, pike and bass. Excel- 
 lent fishing there is in these lakes, if the maximum of success with the 
 minimum of skill is any proof of it. And what an exquisite relish belongs 
 to the fish, admirably served by the hotel cook at one o'clock, which you 
 lifted from his native haunts at eleven! Practical jokers these lakes 
 are, too. In Lake Monona especially,' there is, here and there, a fine 
 submarine network of interlacing "pickerel weeds." Gliding gently 
 over the water, instructing your rower from time to time, you suddenly 
 feel— delightful sensation!— a short, sharp tug at the lines falling over the 
 stern; you pull them in quickly, noting with deepening satisfaction the 
 increase of weight as they near the surface, and you land— a "moist, 
 
54 RAND, McN ALLY & CO:S 
 
 damp, unpleasant body" of slimy pickerel weeds! But these mishaps are 
 part of the spice of piscatorial pleasures. 
 
 Or, you can go off on long botanical tramps, German-student fashion 
 — for the flora of these localities is very varied and beautiful. You can 
 get up expeditions to visit the Indian mounds — those singular relics of a 
 departed race, provocative of keen curiosity and scientific conjecture — 
 with wiiich the neighborhood of Madison is particularly favored. Look 
 at this immense animal who sprawls his grassy length over a whole lawn 
 on the banks of Lake Monona. He has a head like a weasel, two straight, 
 shapeless feet, and a long, vanishing tail. O if one might cut a little 
 piece off that tail! Might he not find therein a gorgeous moccasin, a 
 stone hatchet, a quiver of arrow-heads, — some memorials, in fact, of the 
 great warriors who, fancy says, are buried in the great mound of the 
 centre? But the Indian mounds of Wisconsin are matter too serious for 
 a summer day's conjectures. 
 
 Delightful pic-nics, too, can be projected into the suburbs, for the 
 country about Madison is romantic and beautiful. What the clam-bake 
 is to Rhode Islanders, the gypsy-encampment may be made here — where 
 the viands served are fish from the lakes, and game from the woods, 
 broiled on the coals, and coffee made in the traditional kettle slung from 
 cross stakes over a fire of brush. To more adventurous souls, who love 
 to mingle the salt of the hazardous and the heroic with a day's pleasure, 
 may be proposed a row through the Catfish which connects Monona with 
 Second Lake. Then, when you have spent the day rowing, fishing, bot- 
 anizing, exploring, gypsy ing, or mooning under green trees in lonely 
 plafces,— when you have achieved an unheard-of appetite and color, — when 
 you have torn all your old clothes and come to fancy yourself a Seminole, 
 a Thoreau, or a John Brent, — when you have forgotten that you ever read 
 a book or paid a compliment, — then, at the close of such a day, you can 
 don your best attire and go over to the hop at the Vilas House, and con- 
 fess, under the inspiration of an excellent band, that social intercourse and 
 the poetry of motion exert, under the circumstances, a charm not often 
 felt. Mention ought also to be made of the drive around the lakes, with 
 other opportunites for driving and horse-back riding in the vicinity. 
 
 'I'he society of Madison is unusually intelligent, cultured and agree- 
 able. To those who spend the season there, it will be found not the least 
 of the city's attractions. 
 
 KILBOURN CITY. 
 
 There is no other spot in Wisconsin and few in this country which 
 can equal in natural curiosities the famous Dells of the Wisconsin. They 
 present to the geologist, the naturalist, the man of business, and even the 
 curled darling of fashion, food for study, inquiry and amusement. Run- 
 
NOR THWES T TO URIST O UIDE. 
 
 55 
 
 ning through the centre of the State is a broad barrier of rock, which 
 presents so many peculiarities as to be almost beyond the possibility of 
 explanation by any of the known laws of geological formation. At 
 Kilbourn City the Wisconsin river cuts its way through this barrier and 
 the scenery along its banks is so novel and fantastic as to excite interest 
 even in persons who have become blase with travel and sight-seeing. 
 
 The river, which is broad and placid in many places before reaching 
 the Dells, 
 
 there becomes 
 narrow and 
 rapid. Many 
 years ago, an 
 old squaw, 
 supposed to be 
 then consider- 
 ably more than 
 one hundred 
 3-cars of age, 
 told one of the 
 early visitors 
 to the Dells, 
 that when she 
 was a girl, the 
 stream at the 
 spot known as 
 the Jaws of 
 the Dells was 
 so narrow that 
 she could 
 
 jump her pony 
 across it. Giv- 
 ing her credit 
 for the outside 
 limit of age, 
 
 the time she referred to would be about one hundred and fifty years 
 ago, and the action of the water since then must have been quite 
 rapid, if her story be taken as the truth. But if the time required to 
 widen the Jaws to their present width has been so short, it is evident that 
 the river has flowed through its present channel but little over two 
 hundred years ; yet, as there is no evidence that it has ever had any other 
 channel, the inference is that the squaw must have been lying. Still there 
 is no doubt that there is a slow and uniform action of the water upon 
 much of the rock, else many of the existing novelties could not be 
 accounted for. 
 
 'CO ' >» -^ », , ; 
 
 VISOR LEDGE, NEAR KILBOURN CITY. 
 
56 RA2s'D, McNALLY (& CO: 8 
 
 The place is a series of surprises, for the usual laws of nature seem 
 to be reversed in so many cases that one seems to be wandering through 
 an enchanted land. The Inkstand and Sugar Bowl, the Visor Ledge, so 
 called on account of its resemblance to a cap visor. Stand Rock, and 
 other points of beauty and interest, are all totally different from the 
 ordinary style of picturesque rock scenery ; and strangers who have 
 passed da3's in exploring the vicinity of the Dells are as enthusiastic on 
 leaving as when they first began. 
 
 The.pleasantest way to visit the Dells is by boat, since a boat is 
 necessary to explore the whole place thoroughly. On account of the 
 current it is generally easiest to take a steamer up the Dells and return 
 by row-boat, which can be towed astern. Then taking the boat and 
 slowly drifting down with the stream, visitors can stop wherever anything 
 is to be seen on shore. 
 
 Kilbourn City itself is a small place, and there are few permanent 
 attractions except the natural scenery and the climate. It is a spot well 
 worth visiting for a week or two, however, and the accommodations, 
 though sometimes primitive, are comfortable and good. Board can be 
 obtained at very low rates, and in the fall many sportsmen locate there 
 for a few days' shooting. 
 
 As one goes up the river in the steamer — the fare being only fifty 
 cents — the first objects of interest are Romance Cliff and Castle Rock, 
 opposite each other ; indeed, they form the gateway of the Dells. Tlien 
 follow a vast number of curious formations of the rock, which luive 
 received names more or less appropriate. The steamer will stop at 
 Chapel Gorge, just before reaching the Jaws of the Dells, so that a small 
 boat can go ahead and see that the passage is clear ; for there is barely 
 room for the steamer to get through, and if it should meet a raft in the 
 Jaws, they could not escape a serious and perhaps fatal collision. This 
 Chapel Gorge takes its name from a large rock veiy closely resembling 
 an altar at the entrance. The passenger disembarks on a bed of beauti- 
 ful white sand, which in summer is likely to be hot enough to make a 
 long continuance in one spot rather uncomfortable. Above, the Gorge is 
 filled with the most magnificent specimens of ferns ; so extensive and 
 beautiful are the varieties of ferns found here that many enthusiasts — 
 particularly foreigners — find difficulty in tearing themselves away. The 
 beautiful and delicate blue-bells of Scotland can also be found here 
 growing in the crevices of the rocks. 
 
 On entering the Jaws, the steamer seems to be rushing upon a mass of 
 solid rock, as the turns are so abrupt and the channel so narrow that the 
 passageway can not be seen until within a steamer's length of it. Indeed, 
 this is noticeable all the way up the Dells, and were it not for the cur- 
 rent, it would often be impossible to tell in which direction the opening 
 ahead would be found. 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 
 
 57 
 
 At Coldwater Canon, the steamer will stop long enough to enable the 
 passengers to explore this wonderful gorge. The entrance is first made 
 for about one hundred yards along a floating bridge, which is parti}-- sup- 
 ported by ropes fastened to the pine trees growing in the rocky clefts 
 above. As the visitor advances, the walls of the canon converge toward 
 each other until there is only a mere foot-path for one person between 
 precipitous, damp and moss-covered rocks. The temperature perceptibly 
 changes from summer heat outside to a degree of coolness which is sure 
 to be felt uncomfortably unless extra wraps are brought along. It should 
 be added that, 
 in most cases, 
 rubber over- 
 shoes should 
 be worn by 
 ladies, and 
 even water- 
 proofs are 
 sometimes de- 
 sirable. 
 
 About half- 
 way up the 
 canon, it sud- 
 denly expands 
 into a beauti- 
 ful glade, fill- 
 ed with trees 
 and shrub- 
 bery. Here 
 there are cro- 
 quet grounds 
 and refresh- 
 ment rooms. 
 The stream 
 
 which flows down the canon is dammed up to form trout ponds, and 
 speckled trout fresh from the brooks can be had here for lunch, cooked 
 admirably, at reasonable prices. Farther up, the gorge narrows again to a 
 mere slit through the rocks, and looking up through overhanging pine 
 boughs, vines and rocky projections, the blue sky can be seen, appearing 
 to rest like a beautifully frescoed ceiling, close down upon the top of the 
 rocks. At length, by a mere foot-path of pine logs, laid in the bed of the 
 canon, the visitor reaches a remarkable enlargement of the narrow pas- 
 sageway which has been christened *' The Devil's Jug." It is circular in 
 shape, having a diameter at the bottom of about fifteen feet and tapering 
 to a width at the top of about three feet, exactly in the manner of an 
 
 INKSTAND AND SUGAR BOWL, NEAR KILBOURN CITY. 
 
58 RAND, McNALLY & CO: 8 
 
 ordinary earthenware jug. The sides are evidently water- worn to a 
 uniform smoothness, and it requires no effort of the imagination to see 
 the close resemblance of the place to the interior of a mammoth jug, 
 split in the middle by the canon, about two feet wide on each side. 
 There is a great deal of romantic and picturesque scenery above the 
 *' Jug," but this point is really the end of the wonders of the canon. 
 
 The next landing-place is at the entrance to another wild ravine, 
 called " The "Witches' Gulch." Almost immediately after leaving the 
 steamer a peculiar opening appears leading to a cave, which has received 
 the name of " Diamond Cave," from the shape of this opening. It is an 
 exact diamond, about five feet high by three feet wide, and it looks as if 
 a wiQdow had been cut through from the outer face of the rock to the 
 cave within. From this point to the really interesting portion of the 
 gulch there is a hard walk through underbrush along the steep side of the 
 ravine for about three hundred yards. The gulch when reached is found 
 to be similar in some respects to Coldwater Canon, but it has even a 
 wilder, more rugged and picturesque appearance. The pathway in some 
 places crosses pools of water twenty feet deep, of a very refreshing cool- 
 ness even in midsummer; at other points it winds beneath heavy masses 
 of rock, which almost shut out the daylight, and which are dripping with 
 moisture. Much of the rock in this gulch is covered with a delicate 
 mossy film of the brightest green, which contrasts vividly with the black, 
 bare rock, and the glistening water dripping or running into the dark 
 pools below. At the farthest end of the gulch, the visitor enters a dark 
 vault, almost an exact cube, and through a very small opening at the 
 upper portion a stream of water flows in, spreads out over a broad flat 
 ledge, and then falls in a wide sheet of white spray. The vault is very 
 dim, even at noontide, and only by walking through the water to the 
 opposite side and stretching along one side of the chamber, can a glimpse 
 of the blue sky be caught, far beyond the rocky reach above. 
 
 Taking the steamer again, the last point of landing is above the nar- 
 row walls of the Dells opposite the strange formation known as Stand 
 Rock. This strange pillar rises quite detached from the adjoining cliff", 
 like a slender spar surmounted by a broad cap of flat rock. How it was 
 ever cut out and left in that condition without being wholly worn away, 
 is but one of the many mysteries constantly encountered in these magic 
 Dells. The walk to Stand Rock is rather a difficult one, much of it being 
 through soft sand. It will well repay a visit, however, and those who are 
 adventurously disposed may clamber to the top of the adjoining rocks 
 and thence spring across to the cap of Stand Rock, which is pnly about a 
 yard distant. 
 
 Having gone up thus far by steamer the tourist can take a small boat 
 back to the city, dropping down with the eddying current of muddy 
 water. There are numerous places of interest to be explored, notably 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 59 
 
 Boat Cave, which may be entered when the river is not too high. A 
 guide is quite unnecessary, but an experienced oarsman should be in the 
 party, for, owing to the rapidity of the current and the innumerable 
 whirlpools, there is often difficulty in landing at the most interesting 
 spots. 
 
 Just below Kilbourn City is the dam, and one of the most thrilling 
 sights of the place is the passage of a raft over this obstruction. These 
 rafts are composed of many thousands of feet of lumber which has 
 
 TKOUT TALLS, NEAR SPARTA, WIS. 
 
 already been sawed at the mills on the upper Wisconsin. They are some- 
 times 100 feet long by 40 feet wide, and are simply compact rectangular 
 masses of lumber piled and lashed together, steered by long sweeps at the 
 bow and stern. They are, naturally, very ponderous and unwieldy, but 
 the raftsmen guide them with wonderful skill through the narrow chan- 
 nel and over the dam. On reaching the verge of the fall, the raft pauses 
 a moment while the boiling and dashing water curls up all around it ; 
 then, with a mighty plunge, it goes over, diving deep into the stream, and 
 apparently struggling like a live creature amid the foam and spray ; 
 finally, it lifts forward and slips along aft, coming down with another 
 
60 RAND, McNALLY & CO:S 
 
 tremendous onset, and then glides off as placidly and smoothly as if no 
 obstruction had ever stopped its onward passage. Sometimes the bundles 
 of shingles and laths, which form the deckload of the raft, are washed 
 off, but most of them are immediately recaptured. Occasionally, however, 
 a raft strikes a rock, or becomes loosened in some way, and goes to pieces, 
 and the sight, as the seething waters wrench the great mass apart, is grand, 
 not unmixed with the element of danger for the raftsmen, as they are 
 liable to be killed by the flying and demoralized timbers. Then the river 
 for miles will be strewn with lumber in all shapes and sizes, from mere 
 kindling wood to large joists. The log rafts rarely come down the Wis- 
 consin, as it is cheaper and easier to saw the logs into lumber before send- 
 ing them down. 
 
 There are many interesting points for the visitor below the dam, and 
 they can be reached by another small steamer which plies for the accom- 
 modation of the traveling public. 
 
 PRAIHIE DU CHIEN. 
 
 This is one of the oldest towns in the State, having been first settled, 
 as its name shows, by the French. It is situated on the Mississippi, a 
 short distance above the mouth of the Wisconsin river, and it has a 
 peculiar site. Along the river bank is a perfectly level prairie which is 
 covered by the town, while heavy bluffs extend up and down the river at 
 a distance of about two miles from its banks. A steam ferry plies 
 between Prairie du Chien ^nd the thriving town of McGregor, Iowa, 
 situated about three miles below on the opposite bank. 
 
 There is little of specialinterest about Prairie du Chien except the rocky 
 bluffs which shut it in on the east. It is a quiet, sociable town, of about 
 four or five thousand inhabitants, and, as society is simple, hearty and 
 hospitable, it is a pleasant place for quiet people to visit for several 
 months during the summer. 
 
 SPARTA. 
 
 Nowhere in the Northwest is there a combination of climate, scen- 
 ery, water-cure, accommodations and society superior to that of Sparta, 
 and few kindred spots in the world are its equal. Situated in a new coun- 
 try it has yet all the charms with which nature endows her own pet 
 haunts, while it is also so accessible and so comfortable, that the visitor 
 finds nothing to complain of which art or ingenuity can remedy. It is a 
 place of less than five thousand inhabitants, situated in a charming val- 
 ley near the source of the La Crosse river. It is partly shut in by heavy 
 bluffs which add to the picturesque and romantic attractions of the sur- 
 rounding scenery, while numerous winding brooks, here babbling noisily 
 
NORTHWEST TO U BIST GUIDE. 
 
 61 
 
 'Over rocky beds, and there gliding smoothly between moss-lined banks, 
 give variety, color and motion to the landscape, besides affording trout 
 fishing of the most exciting kind to the enthusiastic disciples of the gen- 
 tle Isaac Walton. Those who prefer the pleasures of trolling or still- 
 fishing can find ample opportunities for sport on Perch Lake, which is also 
 a delightful place for rowing and sailing. 
 
 MINERAL SPRINGS, SPARTA, WIS. 
 
 All varieties of game are abundant in their season, and had Sparta 
 no other attractions than those which interest the sportsman, it would still 
 be a popular place. But it is as a place of summer resort for health, 
 rest and recreation that it is chiefly noticeable, and the fact that the 
 ■average yearly attendance is now more than twenty-five thousand persons 
 is ample evidence of its popularity. 
 
 Although surrounded by bluff's which tower above on each side, 
 ^Sparta is in reality elevated a considerable distance above most of the 
 
62 RAND, McNALLY & CO.'S 
 
 surrounding country, and the air is therefore remarkably fresh and clear, 
 totally free from any miasmatic character. To the southward there is a 
 gradual descent, and the view is a lovely one at all limes. On some day 
 in early summer, when a brisk rain has given a brighter color to all grow- 
 ing things, there is a wonderful charm in the scenery ; lowering, black 
 clouds still hang over the eastern hills, while the setting sun, breaking 
 out for a farewell look before saying good night, gilds with a mellow 
 splendor all the clouds, hill-tops and rolling meadows within reach of its 
 rays. To the northwest stands the great Castle Rock, rising to a height 
 of seven hundred feet above the river level, like some gigantic monument 
 reared by an extinct race as a reminder of forgotten glory. To the south, 
 the scene is one of soft pastoral beauty, full of teaming fields of unripe 
 grain, green fruit, laden orchards, meadows of new-mown hay, and 
 herds of kine placidly moving on in contented files to the homely barn- 
 yards, where many a pretty milk-maid awaits them. 
 
 The rocky character of the surrounding country makes walking and 
 pic-nic parties more enjoyable than in places situated in a level country, 
 and there are innumerable dells, brooks, ravines and other picturesque 
 spots which tempt exploration and repay the exertion a hundred fold. 
 From the summit of Castle Rock, the panorama is one of the most beau- 
 tiful and extended to be found anywhere between the Allegheny and 
 the Rocky Mountains, and though the ascent is somewhat diflicult, the 
 visitor has a rare reward for the trouble. 
 
 Although the permanent population of Sparta is less than five thou- 
 sand persons, the number who visit the place every summer is so great 
 as to give it quite the air of a summer metropolis, and the society is of 
 the most attractive character. This is owing to its mineral springs, of 
 which there are quite a number. The quality of these springs was first 
 discovered in 1867, when an artesian well was sunk for the purpose of 
 obtaining a water supply for the village ; at a depth of about three hun- 
 dred feet an unfailing flow was reached, but it was found that the water 
 was thoroughly impregnated with mineral salts and alkalies. On sub- 
 mitting the water to a chemical analysis, the following was obtained as 
 the proportions of solids in one standard gallon of the water : 
 
 GRAINS. 
 
 Carbonate of Iron 14.33501 
 
 Carbonate of Magnesia 4.03101 
 
 Carbonate of Lime .40202 
 
 Carbonate of Strontia 01402 
 
 Carbonate of Baryta 00600 
 
 Carbonate of Manganese 00072 
 
 Carbonate of Soda 21030 
 
 Carbonate of Lithia 02400 
 
 Carbonateof Ammonia 00210 
 
 Sulphate of Soda .. 2.21430 
 
 Sulphate of Potash 64130 
 
 The virtue of the water was soon apparent to all medical men, and 
 other wells were soon sunk to the same stratum. The result has been,. 
 
 GRAINS. 
 
 Sulphate of Lime 18020 
 
 Chloride of Calcium 60502 
 
 Chloride of Sodium .14301 
 
 Iodide of Sodium 00014 
 
 Phosphate of Soda 06400 
 
 Phosphate of Alumina 06080 
 
 Silica .28000 
 
 Hydric Sulphide 00340 
 
 Total 23.21735 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUlDt:. 6g 
 
 tliat for certain diseases requiring chalybeate waters there are few springs 
 in the country having a reputation equal to those of Sparta, and the 
 yearly attendance has steadily increased. In addition to the springs for 
 drinking purposes, there are numerous well-kept bathing establishments 
 where every variety of baths can be obtained. Owing to the presence of 
 such large quantities of iron, the water is a powerful tonic, and is also 
 highly magnetic. 
 
 There are excellent hotel accommodations and many pleasant board- 
 ing-houses, where visitors can obtain rooms at very moderate prices as 
 compared with the rates charged at most places of a similar character. 
 There are plenty of good roads through picturesque scenery about Sparta, 
 and livery teams of all styles can be hired by the day or season. During 
 the whole summer there is an abundance of social gayety, and the place 
 bids fair to become the Saratoga of the West — in some respects possess- 
 ing many advantages which Saratoga has not. 
 
 EAU CLAIRE. 
 
 Situated at the confluence of the Chippewa and Eau Claire rivers is 
 the city of Eau Claire, a thriving place, divided into three parts, known as 
 North, East and West Eau Claire. The three divisions are connected by 
 substantial bridges, and the whole city presents a prosperous and attrac- 
 tive appearance. The climate and situation are healthy, and the rapid 
 growth of the place has been continuous since its settlement less than 
 twenty years ago. The surrounding country is not very attractive, 
 though there are some good drives. There is a United States Land 
 Office located there for the entry of government landiS in the western 
 part of Wisconsin, and many persons are temporarily drawn thither on 
 that account. It is not a very favorite summer resort, though there are 
 first class hotel and boarding accommodations, and good society for 
 those who do not desire a fashionable place. 
 
 CHIPPEWA FALLS. 
 
 The Falls of the Chippewa river have given their name to the city 
 which has grown up there within the last twenty years. It is a place which 
 will take a rapid lead as a manufacturing centre, owing to the immense 
 water-power which the river affords, there being a fall of nearly thirty 
 feet in less than a mile. The principal falls are a short distance beyond 
 the bridge, and they really present a very attractive piece of scenery. 
 The city is quite a lumber centre, and a very large business is done there. 
 
 The country has its attraction^, especially for New Englanders, as 
 the scenery partakes of the character of New Hampshire and Massachu- 
 
64 
 
 RAND, McNALLT & CO:S 
 
 setts landscapes. The pines and hemlocks, the wood honeysuckle, the 
 sorrel and the lichen, are as common and indigenous to the soil there as 
 to any of the barren woodlands of New England. It has a breezy, healthy 
 .atmosphere too, and those who enjoy piney woods, cool springs, and 
 swiftly flowing streams, brawling over rocky beds, can find congenial 
 scenery around Chippewa Falls. 
 
 There are good hotels and many pleasant farm-houses where board 
 can be had at reasonable terms. 
 
 ^ERCH LAKE, NEAB SPAUTA, WIS. 
 
NO 2T II WE ST TOURIST GUIDE. 65 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 FOND DU LAC — OSIIKOSn— GREEN LAKE— MENASHA— NEENAII — APPLETON 
 — PENSAUKEE — BERLIN - RIPON — AMHERST. 
 
 FOND DU LAC. 
 
 Fond du Lac, on Lake Winnebago, at the point where the Fond du 
 Lac liver pours into the lake, is the leader in a charming little series of 
 summer re&orts clustering about the lake as a centre. In the midst of 
 picturesque and varied scener}^ presenting in its neighborhood many of 
 those striking combinations of water, rock and wood, which make the 
 landscapes of Wisconsin unique and peculiar in their beauty, it offers 
 almost equal attractions to the artist, the tourist, or the invalid. To the 
 latter class of visitors it holds out special inducements, indeed, in the shape 
 of a Mineral Spring, called the Fountain, said to possess magnetic proper- 
 ties, and credited with highly invigorating powers. The water of the 
 whole district is exhilarating and tonic in its effects, springing as it does 
 from cold beds of rock, and spouting forth from artesian wells. 
 
 The real magnetism, however, is in the atmosphere — the spicy, aroma- 
 tic breath of the great pineries, on whose outskirts the city lies. It is a 
 favorite dream of some of- the over-worked toilers in the great Western 
 cities— editors, authors, students, and exhausted business men, especially— 
 to spend a summer in the pine woods of Wisconsin. They dilate in 
 imagination on the pleasure of lying on a midsummer day, on the soft, 
 fragrant bed which the pine tree spreads for its lovers— a resting place 
 more delightful than the rose- strewn couch of the Sybarite. They inhale 
 in fancy those pungent odors which a whole college of French physicians 
 have pronounced more efficacious in healing wounded nerves and 
 strengthening delicate lungs than all the drugs in the universe. They 
 like to picture to themselves the advantages of getting out of sight of a 
 too highly- wrought civilization, and of returning to the simple wants and 
 pleasures of the natural man. They do not in the least overrate the 
 l3enefits to be derived from such a sojourn, but when they attempt to put 
 their project into execution they encounter so many difficulties and 
 annoyances in the details, that in the end they relinquish the plan for a 
 more hackneyed one of easier attainment. 
 
 But one may take such a place as Fond du Lac as a sort of head- 
 quarters and make a daily sally into an existence almost as wild as he may 
 fancy. The place has good hotels, boarding houses, and restaurants, and 
 
66 RAND, McNALLY & CO:S 
 
 after living the life of a Winnebago or a Pottawatomie all day, it is with 
 a keen relish that one returns to excellent cookery and a civilized bed at 
 night. 
 
 The lake itself is a prolific source of amusement. Good fishing is 
 found there, and every variety of boating from that of the single oarsman 
 to the gi-aceful manoeuvres of the yacht clubs — if yacht be not too preten- 
 tious a term to apply to the pretty sail-boats with which the water is 
 dotted. If these simple amusements pall upon the lately-transplanted 
 metropolitan, he will find in the town several billiard rooms ; he may also 
 reckon upon occasional concerts and theatrical performances, of a more 
 or less amateur character, and frequent though informal "hops," to 
 assist him in killing time through the long days and pleasant evenings 
 of summer. No more beautiful drives can be found than the one to Elk- 
 hart Lake on the east. Green Lake on the west, and to the fine sheet of 
 water on the southeast, whose French name, like that of Fond du Lac, 
 crops up curiously here amidst the Indian nomenclature of the region — 
 Lake de Neveu. 
 
 OSHKOSH. 
 
 Near neighbor and rival of Fond du Lac, is Oshkosh. At the mouth 
 of the lovely river called the Upper Fox, on high land overlooking Lake 
 Winnebago from its western shore, its situation is one of singular beauty. 
 In the heart of the old haunts of the Sacs and the Foxes, the Winne- 
 bagoes and the Menomonees, the glamor of old tradition and romantic 
 legend invests its sparkling waters and their -misty headlands, its deep 
 woodlands with their enchanting openings, its " Hills of the Dead " and 
 ancient battle grounds— for these features of its surroundings may be 
 counted as part of the attractions of the town itself. 
 
 To cross the Atlantic for the sake of sailing down the Rhine is no 
 unremunerative enterprise perhaps; the enthusiastic tourist has nought 
 to say against it. But that he will find in that trip more wild and roman- 
 tic scenery, greater marvels told in stone, or tree, or winding river, than 
 he will meet around these inland lakes of Wisconsin, let him not hope 
 As to the spell and charm of legendary association, why is not this 
 wonderful wall on the eastern shore, laid by no earthly hand in far, for- 
 gotten ages, and rising sheer from the emerald waters of Lake Winnebago 
 — why, queries the enchanted traveler in these regions, is not this the peer 
 of the crumbling crags of the Liebenstein and Sternenfels? and the 
 Indian traditions and mysterious speculations which hover about this 
 massive bulwark, as suggestive as the oft-repeated tale of the two knight- 
 ly Brothers of the Rhine? Call to the echoes of this rock-ribbed lake 
 and they will answer mockingly, " Why ? " And who will venture to say 
 that these strange " Buttes des Morts," on the northwestern limits of the 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 67 
 
 town, built by those wild warriors wbo have become, as Freneau wrote, 
 only mighty " shades," stalking over their ancient burial-grounds as over 
 our early history — who will declare that these are less worthy of a visit 
 and a place in one's note-book than the Buttes de Chaumont of Paris, 
 with their modest little crags pieced on by the mason's too apparent 
 trowel ? 
 
 To come back to the prose of Oshkosh. It is a well drained town with 
 much pleasant rambling-ground for the day's amusement, and cool nights 
 for sleep. The woods abound in choice game, and the lakes in fish. The 
 skillful hunter and fisber may count among their spoils the teal and mal- 
 lard duck, the woodcock, suipe, prairie chicken and quail, with delicious 
 brook trout, and black and white bass. 
 
 The annual re-union of the Oshkosh Yachting Club, in the leafy 
 month of June, is one of the most alluring features of the season here, and 
 brings to these picturesque solitudes the piquant attraction of genial 
 societj' and " jolly -good-fellowship." The lake, illuminated by the snowy 
 sails of the yachts careering hither and thither, each like some great alba- 
 tross, the white tents on the shore, the curling smoke of the camps by day 
 and the glow of their fires at night, with the cheery din of shout, song 
 and laughter — all this can be far more agreeably experienced and imagined 
 than described. 
 
 GHEEN LAKE. 
 
 Westward from Fond du Lac is the beautiful sheet of water called 
 from its terraced banks, its grassy slopes and clifis crowned with ever- 
 greens, Green Lake. The name is also applied to a pretty village on the 
 banks. The waters of the lake are pure and clear, and show a pebbly 
 bed far below. Some enthusiastic admirer has called it *'the Lake 
 George of Wisconsin," and frequenters of the spot will not admit that its 
 attractions fall below those of its namesake. The two principal hotels 
 have been established at points commanding views of the most charming 
 scenery about the lake, and within easy access of its most agreeable 
 localities. The Oakwood House is easily reached by omnibus or carriage 
 from the station, from which it is only a mile removed. It offers to its 
 visitors horses for riding and driving, boats for fishing, exercise or 
 pleasure, and fine croquet lawns for those disposed towards that belliger- 
 ent and absorbing pastime. The " Sherwood Forest," probably so called 
 from Sherwood's Point on which it is situated, has happened upon a 
 delightfully suggestive name. Half hidden in a grove of fine old oaks 
 opening into a broad woodland, whose lawns reach by a gentle descent 
 the pebbled shore of the lake, the building, with broad piazzas opening 
 into a world of greenery — something between a Swiss cottage and an old 
 fashioned English country inn — is calculated to overthrow all preconceived 
 
68 
 
 RAND, McNALLT & CO:S 
 
 ideas of a "hotel." One of the ubiquitous representatives of the press 
 calls it "the Saratoga of the West," but — however much its popularity- 
 be destined to increase — far be such suggestions at present from this 
 
 I"- 
 
 :&i 
 
 .L»SBHHil^i 
 
 lis 
 
 mi- 
 
 M 
 
 i \ iiii;,.,:h I M 
 
 serene romantic retreat. The vegetables of the hotel are raised in its own 
 grounds, so that the tasselled corn, curly lettuce and blushing tomatoes 
 are taken from their native mould in the cool of the morning and trans- 
 ferred to the kitchen table with the dew yet undried upon their leaves. 
 

 NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 69 
 
 And lazily at evening the comfortable cows come jogging back from the 
 clover fields, bringing their warm, fragrant milk to the tea and breakfast 
 tables of the Forest. Think of it, ye whose summer esculents swelter 
 citywards in freight cars along a dusty road, or whose milk simmers in 
 hot cans on the platform of the wayside station! Those who are strug- 
 gling with the horrors of " cod liver oil," after the advice of some sapient 
 Esculapius, will find more restorative power in a daily cup of the 
 ambrosia furnished by those same contented cows, than in all the nostrums 
 of the medical schools ; more balm for tired nerves in dew-sprinkled 
 lettuce dressed with the fresh oil of the Italian olive, than in all the 
 morphine ever compounded; aaid more tonic for blood and brain in this 
 bracing atmosphere and out-door life, than in all the cinchona trees of 
 South America. 
 
 On the south side of the lake are some pleasant farm houses which 
 are open to boarders in summer, and here romantically disposed individ- 
 uals may work out new editions of " Private Theatricals " a la Howells, 
 with a finis to suit themselves. 
 
 MENASHA, NEENAH. 
 
 Menasha, at the foot of Lake Winnebago and the Lake Buttes des 
 Morts, is a picturesque town, part of it situated on an island known as 
 Doty's. It possesses the clear, bracing atmosphere for which this region 
 is noted, and, in common with the other members of the group of towns 
 which cluster around Lake Winnebago, has excellent facilities for fish- 
 ing, rowing, sailing and hunting. It has a good hotel, the " National," 
 whence steamboats set out on excursions around the lake. 
 
 Not far off is Neenah, on the banks of the lovely Fox river, a thiifty, 
 cheerful town, with a vicinage of mills, but lately offering accommoda- 
 tions to tourists attracted to this romantic region. 
 
 APPLETON. 
 
 The Lower Fox River Valley, a section of country lying between 
 Lake Winnebago and Green Bay, is a region of great natural, beauty and 
 of some historic interest. Through it Pere Marquette traveled on his 
 way to the Mississippi ; it was the scene of numberless wars between the 
 aborigines themselves, and, later, between them and their European 
 conquerors ; in this locality plain, meadow and hillside bear a plenti- 
 ful harvest of traditions in addition to their abundant crops ; bluff, 
 rapid and grassy trail have each their legend, not less a part of them- 
 selves than their encrusting moss, their enshrouding spray or glittering 
 dew. Nature here is much diversified, passing from fine farming land 
 and broad meadows to deep woodland ; from valley to hillside ; from 
 
70 
 
 BAND, McNALLY & CO.'S 
 
 gently flowing river to torrent and rapid. The climate, resembling that 
 of Central New York and Michigan, has long been known for its even, 
 temperate and healthful character. In the centre of this district, on the 
 Lower Fox river, at a point where a swift descent in the channel of the 
 stream produces *'The Great Falls," or "Grand Chute" Rapids, is 
 Appleton. As a summer retreat it is calculated to suit all tastes, since in 
 its eastern and western approaches it combines the "high tragedy" of 
 
 wild ravines 
 and deep for- 
 est seclusion, 
 with the cheer- 
 ful comedy of 
 golden wheat 
 fields, orch- 
 ards, and 
 fruitful farms. 
 At the east- 
 ern extremity 
 of the town, 
 on the bank 
 of the river, 
 are the Telu- 
 lah Springs, 
 overshadowed 
 by a fine grove 
 of beech and 
 maple. The 
 water is said 
 to resemble 
 closely, in cur- 
 ative proper- 
 ties, that of 
 the famous Be- 
 thesda Spring 
 
 of Waukesha, and invalids are known to have received great benefit from 
 a sojourn here. The place is attractive to sportsmen, also : the river 
 afi'ords good fishing ; the fields of wild rice in the neighborhood furnish 
 excellent duck shooting, and the woods abound in game of many varieties. 
 After what has been said of the scenery, it is hardly necessary to add 
 that the walks and drives are unusually pleasant. The near presence of 
 the Great Lakes is felt in the comparative mildness of the winters, and in 
 the delicious coolness which vanquishes even the heats of midsummer. 
 
 The town is also the site of Lawrence University, whose influence 
 upon the tone of society has been marked. Indeed, it would be difficult 
 
 THE PINE WOODS OF WISCONSIN. 
 
NOUTUWEST TOVRIST GUIDE. 71 
 
 to find in the very centre of civilization, a more intelligent or genial 
 community than this, which appears to be so near its confines. Appleton 
 is well provided with hotels and boarding-houses, and parties desirous of 
 "camping out" will find the facilities for this enterprise by no means 
 deficient. 
 
 PENSAUKEE. 
 
 ]S'orth from Appleton, between Green Bay City and Oconto, on the 
 western shore of Green Bay, is the pretty little town of Pensaukee, The 
 bass fishing here is renowned ; and deer, duck and snipe are plentiful. 
 Good hotel accommodations may be found here, and every temptation to 
 out-door life. All this region, from Green Bay to the mouth of the 
 Menomonee, is memorable for the great fires of October, 1871. The 
 traces of this great devastation have been almost effaced by the heroic 
 l)ioneers of this district, but the remembrance of the sudden horror of the 
 conflagration — the great pine woods kmdling as if by brands from 
 heaven, the fugitives cut off" by a fiery sea before and behind, the groups 
 islanded by flame, and leaping into the water as their onlj* means of 
 salvation — all this is yet vivid in the minds of the settlers. This is a 
 great lumber district. Lovers of Nature and of Theodore Winthrop, 
 whom in his " Canoe and Saddle" he has bewitched, and almost persuaded 
 to set out across the continent for the sake of bivouacking with the 
 woodsmen of Oregon, w^ill find here an opportunity to make the experi- 
 ment of "life in the open air" nearer home. Here, among the stalwart 
 lumbermen, not less genial nor muscular than those whom "Winthrop has 
 immortalized, you may set your camp fire blazing, get out your friendly 
 frying-pan, and bake " cakes of unleavened bread, hight flapjacks in the 
 vernacular, confected of flour and the saline juices of fire-ripened pork, 
 and kneaded well with drops, of the living stream ; " or cook "in infrang- 
 ible tin pots, coffee ripened in its red husk by Brazilian suns thousands of 
 leagues away, that we, in cool northern forests, might feel the restorative 
 power of its concentrated sunshine, feeding vitality with fresh fuel ; " or 
 "hobnob by a frolicsome fire, and partake of crisped bacon and toasted 
 doughboys in ridiculous abundance." Or, returning at night with the 
 spoils of a successful day. the sportsman may '* plant carefully, on spits 
 before a sultry spot of the fire," his wild duck or snipe, after that famous 
 Oregonian receipt: "From a horizontal stick, supported on forked 
 stakes, suspend by a twig over each roaster an automatic baster, an 
 inverted cone of pork, ordained to yield its spicy juices to the wooing 
 flame, and drip bedewing on each bosom beneath," Then, while the 
 "roasters ripen deliberately," he may inwardl}'- repeat that apostrophe 
 which has sent more amateurs into the forests than Marryatt's novels 
 have young men to sea : " ' O Pork! what a creature thou art! ' continued 
 
72 RAND, McNALLY & CO:S 
 
 I, in monologue, cutting neat slices of that viand with my bowie-knife, 
 and laying them fraternally, three in a bed, in the frying-pan. ' Blessed 
 be Moses ! who forbade thee to the Jews, whereby we, of freer dispensa- 
 tions, heirs of all the ages, inherit also pigs more numerous and bacon 
 cheaper. O Pork! what could campaigners do without thy fatness, thy 
 leanness, thy saltness, thy portableness? ' '* 
 
 Who shall say after this that we have not a Charles Lamb of the 
 New World, enticing the unsuspecting enthusiiisi from the refinements of 
 city life to the files and flapjacks of the woodlands, as his progenitor still 
 tempts the London sight-seer from the guinea stalls to the shilling gallery, 
 in memory of Bridget and the essays of Elia? But we forbear, and go on 
 to Berlin, since Pensaukee, in her new hotel, does not promise to provide 
 for more than a hundred tourists at a time. But then, as we have shown, 
 there are the woods, ample enough for an army! 
 
 BERLIN, RIPON. 
 
 Berlin on the Neenah river, and Ripon, six miles from Green Lake, 
 are both pleasant drives from the lake, and are in themselves attractive 
 spots for a summer residence. The latter is the seat of a college, to 
 which young men and women are admitted on equal terms. Those who 
 retain the ancient belief that excellence in the classics and domestic pur- 
 suits are an impossible combination, should see the practical ability, the 
 modesty, and general efficiency in all useful employments, of some of 
 these Wisconsin girls who have read Homer in the original, and are 
 familiar with Cicero and the metres of Horace. 
 
NORTHWEST TOTE 1ST GUIDE. 7a 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 GENEVA LAKE — WAUKESHA — PALMYRA— PEWAUKEE LAKE — OCONO- 
 
 MOWOC — NASHOTAH MISSION — PINE LAKE — BEAVER LAKE — 
 
 NORTH LAKE. 
 
 GENEVA LAKE. 
 
 The idea that a lovely sheet of water in this country must necessarily 
 resemble some other lovely sheet of water in Europe, seems to have been 
 very prevalent about the time the early settlers named many of our m- 
 land lakes ; the inappropriateness of the comparison thus suggested never 
 appears to have occurred to these people, and we are often called upon to 
 visit a Lake Geneva, Lake Lucerne or Lake Como, which bears about as 
 much resemblance to its namesake as a graceful fountam does to a moun 
 tain torrent. Those, therefore, who should expect to see in Wisconsin a 
 Lake Geneva, possessing any of the characteristics of the famed gem of 
 Switzerland (except water, which is about all they do have in common), 
 would be vastly disappointed. There are no grand mountains environing 
 this pretty pearl ; no inaccessible Mont Blanc watches in majestic splendor 
 in the background, to give a feeling of hopeless insignificance to those 
 who aimlessly clamber over its mighty glaciers only to find new fields of 
 eternal ice rising continuously before them; no storied Castle of Ciiillon 
 stands by the edge of our American lake, a silent, awful witness to the 
 sufferings of the martyrs who were chained " each to a column stone;" no 
 atmosphere of painting, poetry and song hangs about our modern water 
 ing place, with half -forgotten legends of tragedy or romance continually 
 echoing in our ears ; nor is every bay, point, ravine and hill-top the 
 sepulchre of some ancient superstition or the site of a saintly shrine. 
 
 But while our Wisconsin Geneva Lake lacks many of the features of 
 interest which give such intense attraction to the shores of the cradle of 
 the Rhine, it is, nevertheless, a place of rare beauty and picturesqueuess. 
 The lake is about ten miles long, of varying width, and it is surrounded 
 by a rolling country, fertile and thickly settled. The area of the lake has 
 been increased largely beyond its natural limits by damming up the 
 eastern extremity to a considerable height, aftbrdmg a fine water-power at 
 that point. The importance of this dam to the beauty and even the exist- 
 ence of the lake was shown by the damage done in 1858, when the heavy 
 rains caused a breaking of tho- dam. In a few days the surface of the lake 
 was lowered several feet, and there was reason to fear that nearly the 
 
74 
 
 RAND, McNALLY d: CO.\S 
 
 whole lake would run away ere the break could be repaired. For more 
 than two years afterward there were broad strips of yellow or stony beach 
 all around the shore between the former level and the actual height of the 
 water, and the long period necessary to restore the lake to its former 
 
 limits showed how great had been the waste. Since that time the greatest 
 precautions have been taken to prevent a recurrence of a similar accident ; 
 and few persons would ever imagine that so great a change could be 
 wrought in the appearance of the lake. 
 
 There is an abundance of attractive natural scenery in the vicinity of 
 the town of Geneva, and of late years there has been so much done arti- 
 ficially toward beautifying the private grounds and villas which are 
 
NOR TR WE8 T TO URIST UIDE. 75 
 
 scattered all around the shores, that there are few more agreeable water- 
 ing-places in this country. There is a great diversity of surroundings 
 noticeable along the shore; in some spots the beach rises gradually, leav- 
 ing graceful curves of white sand unbroken by a stone or tree, while in 
 other places the shore rises abruptly out of the water, being covered to 
 the very verge with heavy timber, rocks and undergrowth. On the 
 southern shore there is a curious inlet, called Duck's Hole, where the 
 best fishing and water-fowl shooting are found. Two very narrow penin- 
 sulas of solid earth separate the lake from a vast overgrowth of swampy 
 territory; these long arms of solid ground connect with the main land and 
 run out toward each other until they nearly meet, leaving an opening not 
 over thirty feet wide, and in this opening the finest kind of still fishing 
 may be had. At this spot a pickerel — or rather pike — was once caught 
 weighing twenty-two pounds. Trolling is also a favorite sport on the lake 
 itself. 
 
 The ease with which this beautiful place can be reached has made it 
 one of the most popular of Wisconsin resorts among St. Louis and Chi- 
 cago people. This is especially the case with business men of the latter 
 named city, since they can leave their families in Geneva for the summer, 
 and, taking the fast train Saturday evening, spend Sunday with them, 
 returning again for business early on Monday. For this and other impor- 
 tant reasons, there have been many handsome summer villas built in the 
 immediate vicinity of the town and even at considerable distances from 
 the station. They are generally owned by men of wealth and leisure, 
 who have expended large sums in constructing as nearly perfect homes as 
 could be obtained. The roads are admirable, and the ai'ray of carriages, 
 phaetons and light buggies to be seen around the station Saturday even- 
 ings is not surpassed at any of the Eastern inland summer resorts. 
 
 The society of Geneva during the summer is one of its chief attrac- 
 tions, for while every class of people can be met by those who wish to 
 enjoy all varieties of the genus homo, the general social tone is unusually 
 high for so fashionable a watering-place. There are frequent hops and 
 balls at the hotels, while of private entertainments there is no end. In 
 one respect it has an essential advantage over many other summer resorts: 
 there is no disagreeable dearth of eligible young men when any important 
 social event takes place ; being so near Chicago, it is quite the custom 
 among the gentlemen of that city to take advantage of every opportunity 
 to visit the lake, even if it be only for one evening at a time, and thus the 
 fair lady visitors are never obliged to complain of a lack of attendants. 
 
 The lake itself is a beautiful one, being indented and cut into by 
 numerous promontories and curves of the shore, and it is a delightful 
 place for aquatic sports. There is a fine steamer which plies around the 
 whole shore daily, and innumerable sail and row boats are kept for hire. 
 There are many excellent bathing houses on the different white sand 
 
76 RAND, ^fcXALLY & CO:S 
 
 beaches, und the water arrives at a very comfortable temperature for 
 bathing before the end of June. 
 
 There are several first-class hotels and many boarding houses, ■where 
 the visitor can obtain every style of accommodations and food. The 
 hotel rates for permanent boarders vary from eight to eighteen dollars per 
 week, while at some of the boarding houses excellent rooms and meals 
 can be obtained as low as seven dollars per week. There are several 
 excellent churches, and while each of the leading denominations is 
 represented, frequent union services are held during the summer. 
 
 WAUKESHA. 
 
 During the last few years the name of Waukesha has become nearly 
 as familiar in the West as that of Saratoga or Sharon Springs in the East, 
 and it is now recognized as one of the most popular health resorts in the 
 United States. It is only since 1868 that thd efficacy of the Waukesha 
 waters has been known, but already their reputation is so well established 
 that thousands flock to the springs every summer, while hundreds of 
 casks and barrels of the water are shipped to all parts of the world. 
 
 The climate of Southern Wisconsin has a very beneficial influence in 
 itself, aside from any other aids to health, but when the water and climate 
 are enjoyed together, it is rare that the invalid does not soon begin to 
 show marked improvement. There is a bracing tendency in the atmos- 
 phere, somewhat akin to that of Minnesota, yet which does not maintain 
 such a high nervous strain. 
 
 The site of Waukesha is near the southern part of Waukesha county, 
 about twenty-three miles from the shore of Lake Michigan. Although 
 in the centre of the Lake Region — there being al)out forty lakes in the 
 county — it is not immediately upon any of these bodies of water, though 
 within easy driving distance of a large number. The principal attraction 
 is, of course, the springs which restore health not only to the pronounced 
 invalid, but also to those who, having been run down physically by over- 
 work or dissipation, find themselves in need of rest, relaxation and tonic 
 treatment. As has always been the case in the history of such springs, 
 there are about three well persons in attendance to one invalid, the 
 majority being drawn thither by the fashionable amusements of such 
 places, and by the idea that they can enjoy the summer and improve their 
 health at the same time ; of course, the more people that attend one year, 
 the more there will be next, and thus it invariably happens that nothing 
 is more efi'ective in creating a fashionable watering-place than the discov- 
 ery of mineral springs. 
 
 Here in this charming climate, surrounded by a beautiful wooded, 
 hilly country, and easily accessible by railroad, Waukesha has had a 
 
NOBTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 77 
 
 remarkably prosperous career. It is fashionable not alone because an 
 accidental discovery thrust fame upon it, but because it is an enjoyable 
 place aside from the healing virtues of its waters. Moreover, there is a 
 good deal of benefit to be derived from these same waters, even though 
 the visitor be not an invalid. The gay belle of Chicago, Cincinnati, or 
 St. Louis, who has passed a winter of late suppers and later hours ; who 
 has had no respite from the labors entailed upon her by the laws of 
 remorseless social custom, except perhaps a brief breathing spell in Lent; 
 who has danced four nights in every week, and attended the opera or 
 theatre once or twice beside; and who comes out of the conflict at the 
 end of the winter's campaign with hollow eyes, faded complexion, failing 
 appetite and jaded nerves — such a person finds a happy antidote for the 
 slow poison she has been gradually imbibing all winter in the pure air, 
 refreshing woods and reviving water of a place like Waukesha. Nor is 
 she obliged, in thus placing herself in the hands of that good old nurse, 
 Mother Nature, to give up the gay world during the summer— it is there 
 at her feet; and while she has the satisfaction of knowing that she is 
 recovering her strength and good looks for the coming winter, she also 
 has the pleasure of walk, drive, dance and flirtation ad lib. 
 
 There are several springs of different characters in Waukesha, some 
 being preferable for one disease and some for another; one agreeable 
 feature consists in the fact that there is nothing nauseous or even unpleas- 
 ant in the taste of the water, and few persons would know from the taste 
 that there were any mineral properties connected with it. Following 
 are the analyses of two difl"erent springs. The proportions of mineral 
 substances in one wine gallon of 231 cubic inches taken from the Bethesda 
 Spring were: 
 
 GRAINS. 
 
 Phosphate of Soda atrace 
 
 Alumina 122 
 
 Silica -- .741 
 
 Organic Matter 1.983 
 
 Total 35.710 
 
 GRAINS. 
 
 Chloride of Sodium l.ltiO 
 
 Sulphate of Potassa 454 
 
 Sulphate of Sodium 542 
 
 Bicarbonate of Lime 17.022 
 
 Bicarbonate of Magnesia 12.388 
 
 Bicarbonate of Iron .- 042 
 
 Bicarbonate of Soda 1.256 
 
 In the same measure taken from the Fountain Spring, the analysis 
 showed the following result: 
 
 GRAINS. 1 GRAINS. 
 
 Sulphate of Soda 3b0 Alumina.. .09"! 
 
 Bicarbonate of Soda 1.021 Silica..... 554 
 
 Bicarbonate of Lime .- 13.T78 
 
 Bicarbonate of Magnesia — 9.195 
 
 Bicarbonate of L-on 048 
 
 Organic Matter 311 
 
 Total... 25.364 
 
 It will be seen from the foregoing how efficacious these waters are for 
 all diseases of the stomach, liver and kidneys, and also for strengthening 
 and purifying the blood. 
 
 As might be expected, the hotel accommodations of Waukesha are 
 intended to be sufficient for even the heaviest run of visitors, though at 
 
78 
 
 RAND, McNALLY & CO.'S 
 
 times they are a little overcrowded. They are kept in the best manner,, 
 and every possible provision is made for the comfort of the guests. 
 There are also several boarding houses where pleasant rooms and good, 
 living can be obtained at moderate prices. 
 
 PALMYRA. 
 
 About twenty miles west of Waukesha is another important water- 
 cure, which, though less known, has some rare beauties and advantages 
 
 of its own.. 
 The country- 
 around Pal- 
 myra is very 
 hilly and heav- 
 ily wooded, 
 with ranges of 
 blufis inter- 
 secting the 
 smiling fields, 
 and making 
 picturesque 
 contrasts of 
 ravine, glen 
 and valley. 
 The sparkling 
 waters of 
 
 Spring Lake 
 close at hand 
 afford every 
 advantage for 
 bathing, row- 
 ing, sailing 
 and fishing, 
 while the ex- 
 cellent country roads through leafy woods are delightfully cool and com- 
 fortable for ridiug and driving. The shooting in the proper seasons is 
 varied and the game plentiful, including prairie chickens, quails, par- 
 tridges, rabbits, snipe, plover, squirrels, water-fowl and pigeons. 
 
 One of the most remarkable natural curiosities of Wisconsin may be 
 found about a mile from the village, and it attracts great attention from 
 all who visit the vicinity. There is a clear pond, of very small size 
 and apparently very shallow, which contains a spring whose water is of 
 wonderful clearness. The spring is near the centre of the pond at the 
 bottom of a deep hole or cave about twenty-five feet long and twelve feet 
 
 CAMPING OUT ON PEWAUKEE LAKE. 
 
I 
 
 NORTHWEST TOURIST OUIDE. 79^ 
 
 wide, the sides of which are nearly perpendicular, for a depth of about 
 fifteen feet. The spring is seen seething and bubbling at the bottom, 
 throwing about a mass of fine, pulverized quartz which looks like white 
 sand. The water over this hole seems of a perfect tinge of blue, owing 
 to the fidelity with which it reflects the sky overhead. The perpendicu- 
 lar sides of the hole are covered with a brilliant verdure, and it presents 
 one of the most strikingly beautiful pictures that can be imagined. 
 
 From certain indications on the rocks, the presence of shells, boulders 
 and a calcareous concrete in several localities, there is reason to 
 believe that these are traces of the action of sea water. This idea is also 
 partly confirmed by the presence of a series of mounds, which seem to 
 have assumed their present form in obedience to the action of a large 
 body of water ; at any rate, there is an ample field for speculation and 
 study by the geologist. 
 
 There is an admirable pic-nic ground laid out upon a point projecting 
 into the lake, and boats for rowing and sailing can be hired. The princi- 
 pal hotel is a fine water-cure establishment where every variety of bath is 
 given, and where every comfort both for invalids and pleasure seekers 
 may be found. The spring water is an excellent remedy for rheumatism, 
 neuralgia, epilepsy, and indigestion. Board may be had either at the 
 hotel or in some of the private families who take boarders for the sum- 
 mer. Prices vary from five to fourteen dollars per week. 
 
 PEWAUKEE LAKE. 
 
 Among the attractive spots in Waukesha county, there are none 
 better known than Pewaukee-wee-ning, or "Lake of Shells," as it was 
 formerly called by the aborigines. The lake is about four or five miles 
 long and is of irregular shape, averaging one mile in width, with a depth 
 of about fifty feet. It is indebted for its name to the myriads of beautiful 
 little shells which strew the sandy beaches. 
 
 The scenery surrounding the lake varies from the smiling fields of 
 prosperous farm lands to the wooded slope of primitive forests and the 
 clustering copses of picturesque ravines. There are numerous fine drives 
 leading to Oconomowoc, Waukesha, Nashotah, North Lake and Pine 
 Lake, all of which places are within easy reach. There are two attractive 
 spots for visitors on the lake, one on the eastern end where there are 
 ample hotel accommodations, and the other at the western extremity 
 where there are a number of summer cottages, which are filled by visitors 
 every year. 
 
 The principal attractions of Pewaukee are the fishing and shooting. 
 It is the very headquarters of sport of all kinds, and parties from as far 
 east as Boston come here regularly for several weeks each year. There 
 is probably no better fishing in the world than that to be found in 
 
80 RAND, McNALLY & CO:S 
 
 Pewaukee Lake, and the number of fish caught does not seem to diminish 
 the supply nor discourai^e the survivors in the least. There is good 
 shooting in the spring and autumn, water-fowl being very plentiful, 
 while the quail, prairie chicken, partridge, squirrel and rabbit can be 
 found in great numbers in their proper season. 
 
 There are several fine mineral springs around the lake, and these are 
 beginning to attract visitors also. The Oakton Springs are valuable for 
 many diseases, and there are, besides, a sulphur spring and an iron spring 
 near the shores of the lake. 
 
 The following are the analyses of the Oakton Springs, A and B: 
 
 OAKTON SPniNG, A. OAKTON SPRING, B. 
 
 Chloride of Sodium .161 grains. .537 grains. 
 
 .Sulphate of Sodium 602 " 1,002 " 
 
 Bicarbonate of Lime ..13 929 " 10.438 " 
 
 Bicarbonate of Magnesia 12.225 " 7.750 " 
 
 Bicarbonate of Iron 569 " 358 " 
 
 Bicarbonate of Soda 348 " .302 " 
 
 Alumina 180 " .056 '• 
 
 Silica .151 " .812 " 
 
 Organic Matter - .189 " .358 " 
 
 Total 28.354 grains. 21.613 grains. 
 
 Excellent living at moderate prices can be had at the hotels and cot- 
 tages, or at some of the neighboring farm houses. Many parties who go 
 there for hunting and fishing, however, prefer to camp out, bringing 
 their own camp equipage and trusting to rod and gun for much of their 
 provisions. 
 
 OCONOMOWOC. 
 
 The claim of Waukesha to be considered the leading watering-place 
 of Wisconsin is vigorously combated b}' the admirers of its most impor- 
 tant rival, Oconomowoc, situated on a narrow isthmus separating Lac La 
 Belle and Fowler's Lake in the heart of Waukesha county. It has one 
 advantage in the fact that it is located upon two charming lakes, 
 with all the variety of scenery and amusements to be derived therefrom, 
 while Waukesha lacks this important attraction ; but, on the other hand, 
 Waukesha has its wonderful springs of mineral water, which Oconomo- 
 woc can not boast, and it is perhaps safe to say, that the impartial 
 observer can hardly find any positive superiority of one over the other, 
 which is not offset by some equally noticeable counter-attraction. 
 
 There is an observable change of climate as one goes inland from 
 Lake Michigan, and while this is undoubtedly due in part to the removal 
 from the lake atmosphere, it is also chargeable to the rise in elevation. 
 There is a difference of level between Lake Michigan and the country 
 about Oconomowoc of between two hundred and eighty and three hun- 
 dred feet, giving a marked change in the character of the atmosphere. 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 
 
 81 
 
 The climate is very agreeable at all times, being bracing and invigorating 
 without exciting the nerves unduly, and most persons who pass any 
 length of time there are greatly improved m health thereby. 
 
 There are not only several first-class hotels in Oconomowoc .but 
 innumerable cottages, some owned by wealthy non-residents who simply 
 use them for tlie summer months, while others are kept for rent by fami- 
 lies living on the spot. There are also many farmers who take summer 
 boarders and give them comfortable rooms, attendance and excellent 
 
 liAC LA BELLE, NEAR OCONOMOWOC. AVIS. 
 
 meals. Prices of board range from seven to twenty dollars per week, 
 according to the accommodations furnished. 
 
 There is excellent fishing on the lakes, and provision is made for all 
 kinds of aquatic sports. A small steamer plies on Lac La Belle, and there 
 are plenty of row-boats and sail-boats to be hired. The islands of this 
 lake are popular pic-nic grounds, and parties frequently camp out upon 
 them for days at a time. The absence of mosquitos is an advantage 
 which few watering-places can claim, and this fact adds greatly to the 
 comfort of sleeping during the cool, refreshing nights, which are common 
 durius^ the summer. 
 
82 RASn, McNALLY dc CO:S 
 
 The popularity of Oconomowoc has been so great heretofore as to 
 attract thither a very large concourse of cultivated, wealthy and fashion- 
 able people every summer, and consequently the season is always very 
 gay. There are innumerable croquet matches between rival hotels and 
 cottages, boat races, sailing regattas, private theatricals, dancing parties 
 and pic-nics, all of which amusements are provided for m the best pos- 
 sible style. 
 
 There is a plentiful supply of riding and driving horses for hire, in 
 addition to the private stables, and there are few liner drives than those 
 encircling Oconomowoc in all directions. 
 
 About a mile from Oconomowoc proper is "Gifford's,'' situated on 
 the north bank of Oconomowoc Lake. The drive thither is a charming 
 one, and there are frequent exchanges of hospitality between the visitors 
 and residents of Oconomowoc proper and those who make Gifford's their 
 headquarters. There are hotel and cottage accommodations of the best 
 character at this point, within a short distance of the railroad station. 
 
 One of the strong points of Oconomowoc is found in the great 
 number of attractive places within a short distance, which can be reached 
 by carriage direct from Oconomowoc over excellent roads, or by railroad. 
 To the southeast is Nashotah Mission situated on the Twin Lakes; a little 
 northeast of Gifford's is Okauchee Lake ; still farther to the eastward are 
 Pine and Beaver Lakes with their charming cottages, and due north from 
 the latter is North Lake, one of the most beautiful of all the lakes ; the 
 Government Observatory south of Del afield is nine miles distant, and 
 Waukesha itself is only about sixteen miles away. 
 
 Okauchee Lake, three miles from Oconomowoc, is a very large bodj'- 
 of water compared with the surrounding lakes, and there are many attrac- 
 tions at the hotel and cottages on the south shore. Like many other 
 places in this beautiful lake country, it is little known, being visited each 
 year, however, by a gradually increasing number of visitors. 
 
 Following the old Milwaukee turnpike two miles farther, the traveler 
 reaches Nashotah station near Nagowicka Lake. From the station to 
 
 NASHOTAH MISSION 
 
 is about two miles. The Mission may be reached from Oconomowoc 
 more directly by way of the Nashotah road and the old Milwaukee and. 
 Madison road. 
 
 This college has a picturesque and unfrequented site which would 
 seem to be inappropriate for an institution of learning, but the history of 
 the place has been such as to endear it to the Protestant Episcopal Church, 
 and it is a flourishing theological seminary, its graduates numbering about 
 two hundred. The Mission was established in 1842, when the surround- 
 ing country was a comparative wilderness with few settlers and almost 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 83 
 
 no roads. It was originally a mere missionar}'- outpost among the Indians, 
 but the latter becoming scarce as civilized residents became numerous, the 
 present college was established lor the education of young men for the 
 ministry. It is now presided over by the Rev, Dr Kemper, under whom 
 some of its most brilliant arid fervent students have graduated. 
 
 The college is situated on the northern one of the Twin Nashotah 
 Lakes, in a heavily wooded country surrounded by lofty hills and pictur- 
 esque ravines. Close adjoining the Nashotah Lakes are the two Lakes 
 Nemahbin, which are also beautifully situated among abrupt bluffs and 
 thickl}^ timbered hills. There are few or no cultivated farms in the iui- 
 mediate vicinity, and nothing could be more conducive to retirement and 
 contemplation, the place appearing to be shut out of the w^orld. 
 
 There are a number of private cottages whose owners never fail to 
 pass the summer in them, and there will soon be accommodations for 
 transient visitors; indeed, board can sometimes be obtained for two or 
 three months with some of the regular residents. The society is of the 
 highest character, and the Seminary affords a never-failing supply of 
 educated young men equal to all the most exacting requirements of a 
 cosmopolitan societ3\ 
 
 Passing Nashotah, either road leads to Delafield, where there are new 
 buildings of the most approved character for the entertainment of 
 visitors in connection with the Nemahbin Springs. There is no more 
 delightful drive in Waukesha county than that to the Delafield Observa- 
 tory, about two miles south from the town. It leads through thickly 
 wooded hills gradually rising until a height of 669 feet is reached. On 
 the top of Government Hill there was formerly an observatory about 100 
 feet high, and the view from the top thereof was one of the most beauti- 
 ful to be found anywhere in the West, but it was burned in the fall of 
 1875. It will, however, probably be rebuilt this year. 
 
 From the summit of this hill, more than thirty lakes can be seen 
 sparkling in the sunlight like jewels, connected by glistening threads of 
 silver, where the streams wind in and out of view among the wooded val- 
 leys. From Merton in the northeast, the Bark river flows in a generally 
 southwest direction past Hartland, through the Nagowicka and Nemahbin 
 Lakes; while the Oconomowoc river runs in the same general course, and 
 strung upon it and flowing into it are North Lake, Pine and Beaver 
 Lakes, Okauchee and Oconomowoc Lakes, Fowler's Lake and Lac La 
 Belle ; besides these large lakes there are many smaller ones which dot 
 the variegated landscape in every direction. The beauty of this section 
 of Wisconsin can only be fully appreciated by those who remain long 
 enough in the vicinity to thoroughly explore it. There is a curious com- 
 mingling or juxtaposition of the wildest of Nature's moods with the 
 creature comforts and luxuries of civilization. Side by side are " the 
 forest primeval " and fertile, highly cultivated farms, showing every 
 
84 RAND, 3IcXALLY (& CO:S 
 
 evidence of the wealth and thrift of the owners. In these dense forests, 
 whose character seems to have been unaltered for ages, the presence of 
 man is not discoverable; in man}^ places they recall the beautiful lines of 
 
 Bryant: 
 
 " Here are old trees— tall oaks and gnarled pines, 
 
 That stream with gray-green mosses; here the ground 
 Was never trenched by spade, and flowers spring up unsown, 
 And die ungathered." 
 
 In the low portions adjoining the lakes the enthusiastic fern-hunter 
 finds ample scope for action, and the difficulties of the search in boggy 
 grounds among fallen and decaying trees are forgotten in the pleasure of 
 adding choice specimens of delicate ferns to one's collection. Some of 
 the rarest varieties of the fern tribe have been found in these woods by 
 summer visitors who were indefatigable in their search, 
 
 PINE LAKE, BEAVER LAKE, NORTH LAKE. 
 
 These three lakes are immediately adjoining each other, and they are 
 perhaps more beautiful, though less known, than any of the other sum- 
 mer haunts of Waukesha county. They are more than three hundred feet 
 above the level of Lake Michigan, and the scenery is diversified by the 
 boldest kind of hills, ravines and watercourses. 
 
 Pine Lake is the largest of the three, and its eastern shore is quite 
 thickly settled by people from Milwaukee, Chicago and other places, who 
 have built comfortable cottages for their summer residences. The deep 
 blue of the lake is one of its most noticeable beauties, and the contrast 
 between the color of the water and the brilliant green of its abrupt 'and 
 overhanging banks in early summer is unusually striking; in the fall, the 
 foliage takes the flaming colors of the leaves along the Hudson, and 
 nowhere does Nature array herself in more vivid and varied tints than 
 here along the shores of the Wisconsin lakes. At the earliest touch of 
 the frost the aspens become more cold and silvery, the poplars show a 
 jealous yellow upon their leaves, while the maples throw out the red flag 
 at once and all other colors pale their ineffectual fires before these gor- 
 geous dyes. Occasionally one meets a tree whose leaves, like the famous 
 shield, are of different colors on opposite sides; and, while all is deep and 
 golden yellow at one moment, a sudden breeze may ruffle the tree into 
 one mass of tossing crimson, amid which occasional glints of its former 
 tinge may be seen like sparks of fire in a cauldron of melted metal. At 
 such times, the broad back-ground of dark blue afforded \iy the lake gives 
 an added charm to the variegated colors on shore. Unfortunately, how- 
 ever, few persons wait to see' the autumnal changes through, but those 
 who do so find no portion of their country visit so delightful as the months 
 of September and October. 
 
 There are no public resorts on any of these lakes, but there are several 
 
NO R TUWEST TO UBIST G UID E. 85 
 
 delightful private houses where excellent board can be obtained at very 
 reasonable prices. The wide isthmus between Beaver Lake and Pine 
 Lake is the most desirable residence site, and there are several places 
 along this road which could hardl}'' be excelled for beauty of location. 
 The land is high, rising abruptly above the shores of both lakes, and the 
 roads are fine. There is a beautiful island in Pine Lake, and as most of 
 the residents own row-boats or sail-boats, the island is a favorite resort 
 for pic-nic parties. 
 
 These lakes, as is the case with nearly all Wisconsin waters, are admi- 
 rable places for fishing, and there are numbers of visitors, who having 
 limited leisure, go to spend a week or ten days for the express purpose of 
 enjoying the fishing and shooting. The woods are full of partridges, 
 rabbits and squirrels; and water-fowl, wild pigeons and quail are plentiful 
 at the proper seasons. 
 
 North Lake is, as its name implies, the most northerly of all the 
 chain; it is a mile and one-quarter long and about three-quarters of a 
 mile wide; in places it is very deep, and throughout it presents a charm- 
 ing prospect to the eye. On the east, the shore rises boldly from the 
 beach, afibrding the finest kind of building sites ; while on the west, there 
 are heavy woods extending down to the very edge pf the lake. A dense 
 tamarack grove on the northwest side gives a sort of melancholy variety 
 to the scenery and adds to the picturesqueness of the view, the resem- 
 blance of this tree to the cypress being very striking. Along the east 
 side, there are several private residences occupying sites of extraordinary 
 beauty on the sloping shore, or at the top of miniature bluffs whose base 
 is lapped by the crystal waters of the lake. This vicinity is an excellent 
 farming country, and the farmers are, almost without exception, prosper- 
 ous and wealthy. At the northeast corner of the lake, where the Bark 
 river enters it, is the picturesque and attractive place of Colonel Henry 
 Shears, with several outlying cottages. From this bluff, or from the still 
 higher point just across the river, the view down the lake is full of beauty, 
 and it is not strange that those who have once loitered amid the fascina- 
 tions of Ihis spot should always thereafter retain such memories as to 
 continuall}^ be drawn back thither. 
 
 Within an easy drive from North Lake is the highest point in 
 the county, known as Lapham's Peak, which rises about nine hundred 
 feet above Lake Michigan. The roads thither are of the best quality, 
 and the view from the summit well repays the trouble of the trip. 
 
 In connection with this peak quite a touching story is told, and 
 whatever view maj^ be taken of the so-called miraculous features of the 
 affair, the certainty of the truth of the story itself can easily be estab- 
 lished. It is related that a laboring man, living near the northwestern 
 limits of the city of Chicago, was afflicted with rheumatism or paralysis 
 until he became bed-ridden. In this condition he was taken to a Roman 
 
86 RAND, McNALLY & CO:S 
 
 Catholic hospital where he seemed to grow gradually worse until he could 
 hardly move any of his limbs. One morning, according to the story, he 
 informed one of the priests that an angel had appeared to him during the 
 night and had told him that if he would go to the top of a certain hill and 
 remain there alone for three days, he should be cured. Little notice was 
 taken of the dream, although the man was very confident that he had 
 seen and talked with an angel. Some time afterward, the vision 
 reappeared, and the angel, after reproving him for his negligence in not 
 having tried to do as directed, showed him the spot where he was to go to 
 be cured. The repetition of this dream to some of the holy fathers ended 
 m nothing except an inquiry as to the appearance and surroundings of 
 the hill, and the matter was again forgotten. By this time the man was 
 totally helpless, and nothing seemed to keep him alive except his ineradi- 
 cable faith in his two dreams; he fully believed that if he could learn 
 where the hill was, he would be cured. Finally he had the dream a third 
 time, and on this occasion the angel reproached him bitterl}^ and also 
 spoke in very severe language of the carelessness of the priests in failing 
 to help him to find the hill. The man's faith was so great and his belief in 
 the reality of his vision so sincere that the priests became more or less 
 infected with the man's mania, and they began to search for such a place 
 as would answer the man's description. At length one of them happened 
 to be sent out among the people beyond Merton, near Lapham's Peak, 
 and while there he recognized the similarity of Lapham's Peak to the hill 
 described by the bed-ridden man. The intelligence was sent to the 
 hospital, and after consultation with the (then) Roman Catholic Bishop 
 of Chicago, it was decided to send the man to Lapham's Peak to see 
 whether that was the place. Owing to his helpless condition, the man 
 was removed with much diflQculty, but he at length reached Merton and 
 was taken thence to the foot of the Peak. He had a pair of crutches with 
 which he had formerly been able to walk a little, but he was now so weak 
 that It was necessary to carry him from the bottom to the top of the hill on 
 a stretcher. It is said that as they went along, the people who knew the 
 road were surprised to find that the sick man also seemed to know it, as 
 he was able to tell them in advance the nature of the road, its direction, 
 etc. ; in fact, the man immediately recognized the hill and expressed per- 
 fect confidence in his cure. On reaching the top, the man asked to be 
 left alone for three days and nights, and so completely had the man's 
 own infatuation infected his attendants that they immediately withdrew, 
 leaving him nothing but bread and water. The man had not been left 
 alone before for years, being practically unable even to feed himself ; yet, 
 so great was the influence of this man's faith over them, that they did not 
 hesitate to leave him exposed to the wind and weather for three full days. 
 On the third day the people of Merton, having learned what had been 
 done with the man, started an expedition to look for him, believing that 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 87 
 
 Ms attendants had left liim either because they -were crazy or because 
 they wanted to get rid' of a helpless burden. It was generally expected 
 that they would find the man dead from neglect and exposure; accord- 
 ingly quite a number started in the party, some in incredulous indigna- 
 tion at the idea of such a desertion of a dying invalid and others in pious, 
 though not very certain, expectation of finding him at least no worse, even 
 if not partly cured. To the astonishment of all, they met the whilom sick 
 man trudging down the hill with his crutches over his shoulder, whistling 
 as merrily as if he had never been sick a day in his life. To all questions 
 as to the manner of his cure he turned a deaf ear, and though the fact was 
 obvious to all, he never could be induced to explain the means by which 
 it was brought about. In memory of the event, however, a neat little 
 open chapel was erected on the summit of Lapham's Peak and the man's 
 crutches were placed therein. They can be seen there at any time, and 
 the foregoing story will be told to explain their presence there ; indeed, 
 "until recently, the man himself was at work in the vicinity, and he is 
 still there unless he has gone thence within a few months — an improbable 
 thing, since having already jDassed several years near the scene of his 
 marvelous cure, it is unlikely that he should stray away. The inquisitive 
 tourist, therefore, who wishes to learn more of the affair can readily do 
 so by consulting the man himself. 
 
 Aside from this legend, however, there is so much that is interesting 
 in a ride or drive to Lapham's Peak, that it is well worth while to make 
 the trip. The distance is about nine miles from North Lake; the same, 
 fromMerton; fourteen from Hartland; eighteen from Pewaukee; twenty 
 from Gifford's, and twenty-two from Oconomowoc. The view from the 
 summit is grand, and a party who should drive there and camp out over 
 night would be well repaid by the glorious view at sunset and sunrise. 
 
SS i?-13'Z). McXALLY Lt CO/S 
 
 CHAP TUB VIII. 
 
 ST. PArL-CAKVEE'S CAA'E - FOUNTAIN CAVE — .>nXXEAPOLIS — FRONTE- 
 
 XAC-LAKE PEPIN — FORT SNELLING -CASTLE ROCK 
 
 - WABASHA - WINONA - BULUTH 
 
 In entering Minnesota the traveler in search of the unhackneyed and 
 the romantic, enters a broader domain with grander sweeps and curves, 
 and larger vistas. The State is noted for its dry, exhilarating atmosphere; 
 in certain localities the air has a crystalline clearness and a stimulating 
 power like that which TVinthrop calls the " October tipple" of our early 
 Indian summer mornings. In the distinctness which it gives to distant 
 scenery, and its inspiring eflect upon the vital powers, it recalls the virtues 
 attributed to the atmosphere of ancient Athens. As the habit of summer 
 travel and recreation grows with the increasing resources of our country, 
 this region of the Upper Mississippi is destined to assume to the United 
 Stales and the world at large the relationship of the Rhine to Germany. 
 To the genuine tourist, who revels in rapid "changes of scenery, sudden, 
 surprises, and unexpected adventures, it is irresistibly alluring; and, doubt- 
 less, far more so at present than it will be when the stream of travel shall 
 have set more decidedly in this direction. The circumference and centre 
 of the State are marked by a succession of inland lakes whose waters are 
 exquisitely clear, and whose sunoundings are of the most romantic char- 
 acter. Upon or near the boundaries of the State are Lake Pepin; Heron, 
 Yellow Medicine, Travers, and Rainy lakes ; and, in the interior. Red, 
 Spirit, Leech, and Cass hikes, with the rest of the chain which sleep around 
 the cradle of the Father of Waters, and, starting from Lake Itasca, like 
 great pearls upon a silver thread, prolong the rivulet in whose feeble 
 flow are the baby footsteps of the giant Mississippi. To the tempering 
 influence of these inland boJies of water, the cheerful, invigorating prop- 
 erties of its winter cold, and the mild, modified nature of its summer 
 heats, is doubtless due To hunters, Minnesota ofiers a wide range, and 
 immense variety of game With an abundance of all the smaller game 
 native- to the ;^^o^thwcst, there is excellent deer shooting, with opportuni- 
 ties for the pursuit of the fox, the moose and the wolf. All the lakes 
 abound in fish, of firm flesh and rare flavor. It is a region, in short, of 
 crystal lakes, a mighty river, bold blufl"s and curious caves ; of deep 
 ravines, foaming rapids and lovely water-falls. If one is in pursuit of 
 senuine recreatinn, the renovation of body and mind, the advantages of 
 a summer's trip or residence in this State far outweigh those of a brief 
 
NORTHWEST TOCRlST OriBE. 
 
 89 
 
 trip to noted European localities The old Tvorid with its swift succession 
 of difiering customs, cities and peoples, its marvellous art, tempts the sight- 
 seer to over-exertion and keeps the mind in a state of restless activity ; 
 whereas, a sojourn among these cool forests, the dash of waters where 
 "the cataracts blow their trumpets from the steep" — calm, reflective 
 hours spent in Isaac Walton's favorite pursuit, when the still beauty of 
 
 SILVER CASCADE, NEAR ST. ANTHO>T, XISX. 
 
 surrounding nature is photographed upon the mmd— all tend to sweep 
 the cobwebs from the brain, and send the traveler back wonderfully 
 refreshed to the more complex and exacting life of the city. 
 
 ST. PAUL. 
 
 As the largest city in the State, and the centre of a most romantic 
 locality, St. Paul is not only of interest in itself, but it makes the best 
 point of departure for numerous summer excursions. The city is situated 
 on the Mississippi something more than 2,000 miles from its mouth. It is 
 
90 EA^'D, IIcNALLY & CO:S 
 
 the capital of the State, and the head of navigation for large steamers. 
 It takes its name, says tradition, from the log church of a Roman Catho- 
 lic missionary, dedicated to the great apostle of the Gentiles. Great bluffs 
 of sand and limestone rise 100 feet above the river, and above and beyond 
 these an amphitheatre of hills. In fact, the city has three levels : that of 
 the levee, that of the plain on the summit of the blniis, and that of the 
 heights. The business of the city lies of course on the first two ; the 
 third furnishes fine situations for residences. There are three good hotels: 
 the Merchants', Metropolitan, and Park Place — the first being the nearest 
 to the business portion, and the last most withdrawn from it. In the 
 Capitol, the most interesting rooms are those of the State Historical 
 Society, whose collections will well repay examination. 
 
 The river — w^hich here is a clear, lucid stream, quite unlike the opaque^ 
 yellow flood it becomes after its union with the turbulent Missouri — is 
 spanned by two bridges, of which the most noteworthy is the one named 
 *' St. Paul," a structure of wood resting upon stone piers. At Fort Snell- 
 ing the river is crossed by that old-fashioned but picturesque arrangement 
 called a rope-ferry. 
 
 The walks and drives about St. Paul are very attractive. The most 
 noted are Minnehaha Falls, Lake Como, Fort Snelling, White Bear Lake, 
 and Phelau's Lake. 
 
 Minnehaha Falls — the sudden descent which the river of the same 
 name makes from its pebbly bed over a wall of almost perpendicular 
 rock — have certain inherent, natural beauties; the river is shallow and 
 exquisitely clear; when it makes its daring leap over its rocky bastion the 
 slender stream breaks into a million braided rills, that fall in a shower of 
 diamonds. From below rises the foam in a veil of mist, enhancing, yet 
 softening the brilliancy. Through this veil of radiant dew appears the 
 dark, rugged side of the rock, like a grim old warrior decked with the 
 laces of a maiden. All this is pretty enough, and well worth the delight- 
 ful drive of eight miles, but who does not know that — as it is with more 
 famous spots in older lands than ours — its natural beauties are the least of 
 its attractions? Who can stand on the little bridge below, and not be 
 sensible of the glamour which Longfellow has cast about the place, 
 without saying to himself: 
 
 " the land of the Dacotahs, 
 
 Where ihe Falls of Minnehaha 
 Flash and gleam among the oak trees, 
 Laugh and leap into the valley" ? — 
 
 Without seeing 
 
 ' the face of Laughing Water 
 
 Peeping from behind the curtain, 
 
 As one sees the Minnehaha 
 
 Gleaming, glancing through the branches 
 
 Are those two silver birches which you see leaning toward each other? 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 
 
 91 
 
 Is that the sound of the waterfall murmuring through the forest? Ko, they 
 are Hiawatha and Laughing Water going hand in hand "through the 
 -woodland and the meadow ; " it is 
 
 " the Falls of Minnehaha, 
 
 Calling to them from the distance, 
 Crying to them from afar off, 
 'Fare thee well, O, Minnehaha.' " 
 
 For a short 
 drive over a 
 good road, 
 Lake Como, 
 distant two 
 or three miles, 
 is available. 
 One mile far- 
 ther is Phe- 
 lan's Lake, 
 known for its 
 excellent fish- 
 iug, and as the 
 reservoir of 
 the St. Paul 
 Water Works. 
 Far more pic- 
 turesque than 
 either of these, 
 are Bald 
 
 Eagle Lake 
 and White 
 Bear Lake, 
 twelve and 
 fourteen miles 
 from the city 
 
 FOUNTAIN CAVE, NEAB FORT SNELLING, MINN. 
 
 -much frequented by pic-nic excursions. 
 
 CAEYER'S CAYE. 
 
 On the opposite bank of the Mississippi, one mile from St. Paul, is 
 the curious cave called by the Indians "The Dwelling of the Great 
 Spirit," but known to the English settlers as " Carver's Cave " — in com- 
 memoration of one of the earliest explorers of the State, Captain 
 Jonathan Carver, who wrote a description of it more than a century ago. 
 The entrance is by a low arch whose width is double its height. In the 
 interior the arch of the vault is of thrice the size, but of the same pro- 
 
92 BAXJD, McXALLY & C'0.\S 
 
 portions. The floor of the cave is of fine white sand, but at a short dis- 
 tance from the entrance is found a lake "svhose clear waters stretch back- 
 ward into unfathomable depths of darkness. A pebble thrown into this 
 abyss awakens discordant and voluminous reverberations, quite unac- 
 countable and disproportionate to the cause. The whole spot and its 
 surroundings are highly suggestive to an imaginative mind. The Indian 
 hieroglj'phics graven upon the walls — probably of great antiquity, since 
 they are half obliterated by the slow-growing moss — furnish additional 
 food for fancy. 
 
 FOUXTAIN CAVE. 
 
 A mile farther is Fountain Cave, also a natural curiosity. It presents 
 a succession of vaulted chambers, and it was probably hollowed from the 
 rock by the stream which flows through the centre, leaving on each side 
 a floor-like ledge. This cave also has some fantastic features in its 
 acoustic properties. If you stand on the ledge under the first arch in the 
 series, you can hear the rippling fall and soft dropping of a fountain at 
 play. 
 
 MIXXEAPOLIS. 
 
 Among the suburbs of St. Paul, should the latter swell to metropoli- 
 tan proportions, might be counted Minneapolis. It is situated on the west 
 side of the ^Mississippi, eleven miles from St. Paul, the opposite bank of 
 the river being occupied by the town of St. Anthony. It is on a prairie, 
 bounded on the west by blufis, with a chain of lakes beyond. From the 
 town the views up and down the river are magnificent. The surrounding 
 country is exceedingly interesting and beautiful. On the opposite side of 
 the river are the town and Falls of St. Anthony. The river is here 
 divided by Xicollet Island, and falls, directly perpendicular, over a bold 
 ledge of limestone. These rapids produce an impression of rude force 
 stonning its way over obstacles, which renders them a marked contrast to 
 their exquisite neighbor, Minnehaha. Minneapolis possesses the con- 
 veniences of a substantial city, has two good hotels and a postoflSce. In 
 its vicinity are resorts which make a delightful terminus for drives, such 
 as Silver Cascade, Bridal Veil Falls, Lakes "Calhoun and Harriet, and Lake 
 Minnetonka. The latter is a large, irregular sheet of water, swelling into 
 numberless baj's and inlets, its shores shut in by bluffs crowned with 
 forest trees. It makes a charming terminus for pic-nics; sail and row- 
 boats may*be hired at the lake, and fine fishing enjoyed. 
 
yon Til WE ST TOUEIST or IDE 93 
 
 FRONTEXAC, LAKE PEPIN. 
 
 Frontenac, on Lake Pepin, is one of the pleasantest resorts of this 
 region. The lake itself is an expansion of the Mississippi, its waters are 
 <;lear, and it is plentifully stocked with fish. It is specially famous for its 
 trout. Here, also, with aVariety of other game, the sportsman will find 
 grouse, now rare except in certain favored localities. The atmosphere of 
 Frontenac, in the summer season especially, has all those exhilarating and 
 delicious properties for which the air of the State is noted. The same 
 system which has called New Hampshire " the Switzerland of America," 
 has dubbed Frontenac "the Kewport of the ISTorthwest;" but without 
 making these invidious comparisons, one may discover in it original 
 and characteristic beauties suflicient to make it a delightful summer 
 residence. It has been carefully laid out, rather than permitted to strug- 
 gle awkwardly into existence like too many frontier towns. Small 
 steamers make daily trips to the chief ports on the lake, and yachts and 
 row-boats abound. Pine creek and Rush river are localities famous for 
 trout. The traveler will not be permitted to drive to Lake City without 
 havinghis attention called to the "Maiden's Rock," and the pathetic legend 
 of the beautiful Winona, a sort of Sappho of Indian mythology. But this 
 story should be told by a sympathetic voice at twilight, as the steamer 
 Tounds the lofty blufl: which became the unhappy damsel's promontory of 
 Leucate. Few things are more beautiful than a sum'ise or sunset on Lake 
 Pepin. The surface is smooth, unruffled as that of a mirror ; the great 
 bluffs which enclose it stand like Titans in slumber. Strange, fantastic 
 figures are these rocky sentinels : here a feudal castle ; there a monu- 
 mental pillar; here a temple not carved by human hands. But the Ameri- 
 can of this locality does not take flights into the ideal without returning 
 soon to the familiar and practical; witness, that the peak next this roman- 
 tic tower is called "Sugar Loaf." 
 
 FORT SNELLIXG. 
 
 Six miles from St Paul, between that city and Minneapolis, is Fort 
 Snelling. It is built on the summit of a high bluff at the point where 
 the Minnesota river joins the Mississippi. The blufl" is quite thickly 
 wooded at the base and summit; half way up, the bare, rugged limestone 
 sho"^'s its seamed and wrinkled front. The fort is of hexagonal form, 
 and was a secure and sufficient protection against the Indians, but is not 
 calculated to stand the assault of modern artillery. As the first military 
 post— probably the first settlement — in Minnesota, dating back to 1820, it 
 has gathered about it man}' valuable and interesting associations. It 
 forms a striking feature of the landscape in midsummer, when its cluster- 
 
94 
 
 RAND, McNALLY & CO: 8 
 
 ing shrubbery is in its fullest bloom and green expansion, the bold bluff, 
 with its grim bastions and rosy standard floating above them, leaping out 
 
 , jTi||pTii|i[inn" 111' iifii'ii II inTFirnn'mii-ni TOW5'^f*W'''OT°'"'' 'OT 
 
 WAl -^ „, 
 
 into the great river, like a challenging warrior with dark helmet and gay 
 plume ; and hardly less attractive in the early autumn when the magician 
 of the Indian summer has hung out his many-colored garments from its 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 95 
 
 sombre walls. Lovely views of the Minnesota and Mississippi Valleys 
 may be obtained from the fort. Crossing to the shore on the Mississippi 
 side, in a flat-boat propelled by a rope, the traveler can almost fancy 
 himself, as he moves out of the shadow of the great bluZupon the clear 
 stream, upon a Highland ferry over a lake in the mountain region. 
 
 WABASHA. 
 
 Wabasha, seventy miles from St. Paul, is on the Mississippi, nearly 
 opposite the mouth of the Chippewa river. A daily line of steamers plies 
 up and down the Chippewa, which is navigable for boats of light draught 
 as far as its Falls, ninety miles above its mouth. "Wabasha marks, also, 
 the southern limit of the beautiful Lake Pepin, with its crystal waters, 
 its remarkable bluffs, and its picturesque villages. The site of the town 
 was from earliest times the capital, or gathering point of the powerful 
 Dakota or Sioux tribe of Indians, and it remained so until 1830. The 
 Grand Sachem or chief of the confederation dwelt here ; here he sum- 
 moned his warriors to council, and presided over their feasts. This was 
 also a great burial place of their dead; there are around the city hundreds 
 of those curious mounds which provoke speculation and investigation, 
 and which offer more than one link of resemblance to those who conjec- 
 ture a connection between these aborigines and the old Celts of Britain 
 and Gaul. The most remarkable of these are a group of seventy-five 
 arranged in a circular form on an eminence overlooking the Mississippi. 
 
 To the enthusiastic angler, the vicinity of Wabasha is a kind of Para- 
 dise. The Chippewa, Tombia and other tributaries of the Mississippi are 
 fed by a hundred brooks whose clear, sparkling waters come from cold, 
 rock springs; and in these is found in great abundance that glory of an- 
 glers, the speckled trout. All the ecstacies which have expressed themselves 
 in prose and in verse with legard to trout fishing in the brooks of Penn- 
 sylvania are quite as applicable here ; the scenery surrounding the fisher- 
 man is quite as beautiful, and the prey as precious; cooked while the chill 
 of his pellucid stream is yet about him, the brook trout of Minnesota is a 
 morsel fit for Jove — or should we in this region say Manitou ? — himself. 
 In the Mississippi itself may be found the black, white and striped bass; 
 and the point where Lake Pepin pours into the river is unsurpassable 
 trolling ground for pike and pickerel. These are here of imposing pro- 
 portions, rising as high as forty pounds in weight. 
 
 To the hunter the woods offer equal attractions. He may count 
 among his spoils numberless varieties of ducks and wild geese, with 
 choicer and rarer kinds of game, such as the prairie hen, the ruffled and 
 pinnated grouse, the woodcock, and the quail. Around the little lakes- 
 which open upon the view everywhere in the forest here, one may startle 
 the elk, the deer, and the bear— nobler game, and offering finer opportuni- 
 
'96 
 
 RAND, McNALLY & C0:8 
 
 ties for the excitements of the chase, than all India could furnish an 
 English prince. The hunter may take as a guide a descendant of the 
 
 ■'^ilulililliiil;.:,: 
 
 wild race which once ruled these vast domains, whom he will find, 
 general, to be a great improvement upon Winthrop's Loolowcan, 
 "Duke of Tork." 
 
 m 
 or 
 
KOBTnWEf^T TOURIST GUIDF:. 97 
 
 Back of the city is a range of bluffs from whose summit, looking far 
 away over Lake Pepin, or up the valley of the Chippewa, one may dis- 
 cover exquisite landscapes, sufficient in themselves to repay a painter for 
 a visit to this locality. 
 
 Winona, the largest town in Southern Minnesota, is on the west 
 shore of the Mississippi, on a broad, level prairie. It is famed for 
 the healthfulness of its atmosphere. It has much life, energy and 
 commercial activity, and deserves its title of "Queen City." It is a 
 great wheat market, and is the seat of the State Normal School. It has 
 excellent hotel accommodations, and highly agreeable surroundings. It 
 takes its name — musical combination of vowels and liquids — from the 
 unhapp}^ Indian maiden whose sad story it commemorates. Be all such 
 legends untold until the tourist can hear them in their native atmosphere, 
 with the glamour of local association about them, and with the appro- 
 priate setting of the original landscape. 
 
 NORTHFIELD. 
 
 Northfield is on the east bank of the Cannon river. It is on the edge 
 of a prairie, in the neighborhood of extensive forests. Six miles from 
 Northtield is the great natural curiosity, called Castle Rock. It is a tower 
 of the white sand-rock so abundant in Minnesota, and is forty feet in 
 height — a brilliant and striking landmark, its white splendor shining out 
 from the emerald of the prairie. 
 
 DULUTH. 
 
 Duluth, a city which is the growth of the last few years, is at the 
 head of Lake Superior, that great inland sea of the Dakotas, called by 
 them " Gitchie Gumie." The inhabitants of the place see in Duluth the 
 future Chicago of Minnesota, and with good reasons for the hope that is 
 in them. It is in the midst of a fine, fertile region, has a good harbor, 
 with excellent water communications, and it has long been known for 
 the purity of its atmosphere. It has good schools and churches, and one 
 large hotel. The city is well situated on a rising slope, which affords 
 iDeautiful views of the lake, and the opportunity for perfect drainage. 
 The name of Duluth is that of a French officer who visited Lake Superior 
 a little less than two centuries ago, but the town itself is not yet seven 5'ears 
 old. It is not surprising that all accounts of the place include some such 
 title as " Chicago of Lake Superior," " Chicago of Minnesota," etc. — since 
 its growth,' like that of the metropolis of Illinois, repeats the old fable of 
 
98 RAND, McNALLY & CO.'S 
 
 Aladdin's palace. The whole site of the present town was an almost 
 unbroken forest in 1869. Cow p iths, as crooked as those traditional ones 
 of Boston, were the only thoroughfares, and a dozen buildings constituted 
 the extent of its residence and business structures. The supplies both of 
 provisions and dry goods were brought across the bay from Superior City, 
 in birch canoes in summer, and by dog trains over the ice in winter. 
 Superior City, now little more than a small fishing village, is on the south 
 side of the Bay of Superior — a deep, landlocked bay three-quarters of a 
 mile wide. Superior City has, in point of age, fifteen years the advantage 
 of its riral, Duluth; and when first laid out it looked confidently to a bril- 
 liant future as the great city of the Lake Superior district. But after the 
 rapid increase of the first three years the growth of the place suddenly 
 came to a stand-still, and it has remained stationary ever since. Duluth, 
 on the other hand, having become the terminus of two railroads— the 
 Lake Superior and the great Northern Pacific — has made rapid strides 
 towards wealth and importance. It has now nearly ten miles of well 
 graded streets, verj'- nearly a thousand buildings, mercantile houses with 
 an annual business of nearly five millions, with wharves and machine 
 shops which give promise of further internal development. After the 
 railroads, the other great factor in the prosperity of Duluth has been the 
 fine break-M^ater built by the Government as a protection to its outer 
 harbor. The completion of the harbor improvements gives Duluth a 
 dockage front of twenty miles — a Liverpool on the extreme western limit 
 of the Great Chain of Inland Seas. 
 
 Beyond Duluth begins the famous and once almost mj^thical " North 
 Shore " of the early voi/ageurs. In the minds of the old explorers it was 
 a region of great silver mines — a second Mexico or Peru. It is even now 
 a region scarcely known and but little inhabited, but one which abounds 
 in attractions to the tourist. One may obtain a glimpse of it from the deck 
 of the excursion steamers which in summer return that way from Duluth 
 to Sault Sainte Marie; but the true mode of making acquaintance with its 
 manifold beauties, is to explore it in a boat hired for the trip, with an 
 experienced and trusty crew. In earlier daj-s, the North Shore was 
 traversed chiefly by the hunters and trappers of the Hudson Bay Com- 
 p£?.ny. Two centuries before the foundation of Duluth, this Company, 
 formed in London with Prince Rupert at its head, obtained from Charles 
 II. '' the sole right of trading in all the countl-y watered by rivers flowing 
 into Hudson's Bay." Of its four departments, the Southern embraced a 
 considerable part of the North Shore, and several of their forts are still 
 scattered along its line. All through the picturesque regions of the North 
 Shore the Company's hunters roamed, pursuing the marten, the otter, the 
 mink and the fox. Over its little lakes, down its clear creeks and rivers, 
 and around its misty points, the voyageurs paddled their canoes, collecting 
 and transporting their bales of costly furs — furs that afterwards crossed 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 99 
 
 the ocean, adorning wealth and beauty in every capital of Europe. 
 While the proprietors of the Hudson Bay Company were English, their 
 employes in this region were almost exclusively French, or Indian half- 
 breeds, and French are all the early associations of this picturesque land, 
 from the geographic names of " Grand Marais," " Bois Brul6," Presqu' Isle 
 and " Riviere du Bapteme," to the wandering Jesuit missionaries, the 
 little church with its vesper bell, and the gay, industrious voyageurs them- 
 selves. A musical race were these same voyageurs, the troubadours of the 
 North Shore, and the traveler will hardly sail at twilight past the 
 Palisades or the Falls of the Riviere du Bapteme without seeing in the 
 sunset illumination the figures of the old voyageurs keeping time with 
 their paddles to some wild, sweet tune, whose refrain — couched in that 
 liquid modern Latin from which all the rugged old Roman consonants 
 have been eliminated — was some such as this: 
 
 " Row, brothers, row, for the night comes on; 
 Slowly sinks the setting sun. 
 Our toil and labor being done. 
 
 Sweet the boatman's welcome home. 
 
 " Row. brothers, row, for the night comes fast. 
 The rapids are near and the daylight past. 
 Soon as the woods on shore grow dim, 
 
 We'll sing at Saint Anne's our evening hymn." 
 
 And so singing, the voyageur has rowed his little shallop down the great 
 stream of the Past, out of sight behind the steep headlands which separate 
 our national from our colonial history, and other voyagers, seeking in these 
 lovely regions rest and refreshment from the strain of an existence quite 
 alien to his simple, laborious life, find in his haunting memory another 
 charm of this romantic locality. 
 
 North of Duluth the shore rises into lofty cliffs, of greenstone and 
 porphyry, from eight hundred to one thousand feet in height. Twenty 
 miles farther on are the Palisades — a curious work of Nature not less 
 remarkable than those of the Hudson. Out of the clear waters of the 
 lake, at a little distance from the shore, rises a great rock like a temple, its 
 front decorated with tall columns, of wonderful regularit}^ but varying 
 diameter: some are slender as the colonnade of an Ionic portico ; others 
 are as imposing in their amplitude as the palm-crowned pillars of some 
 old Egyptian ruin. They are of a reddish color, with a sprinkling of 
 quartz crystals; when the sun shines full upon them they are not unlike 
 porphyry inlaid with jewels. 
 
 Just beyond the Palisades, the Bapteme or Baptism river — so called 
 from some forgotten legend of the voyageurs — comes foaming and splash- 
 ing into the lake like a mountain torrent, storming its way through the 
 wall of rock on one side, when a long stress of tempestuous weather has 
 built up a sand-bar across its mouth. 
 
100 RAND, McXALLY & CO.\S 
 
 Twenty miles— or a little more — beyond Baptism, is Temperance 
 river, with its fine harbor and its lovely falls^-Temperance river with its 
 great pun, for tradition says it was so called because it had no bai' at its 
 mouth. 
 
 Then comes Grand Portage, with its bold bluffs rising from the water's 
 edge. Here, from the far-off Saskatchewan and the Red River of the 
 North, through a long series of lakes and short portages intervening, 
 came the old voyageuj'S with their furs. 
 
 Ten miles north of this, off the shore, is Isle Royale, with its pretty 
 inland lakes, picturesque inlets, and vague rumors of valuable minerals 
 and precious stones. A little before the great California gold fever of 
 '49, a great tide of speculation set towards this island; it was a sort of 
 valley of diamonds of the Sinbad variety, if reports might be believed; 
 silver was there in abundance and copper in inexhaustible quantities. 
 Copper there was and is, but the silver and the jewels were not so 
 apparent, so the tide receded, and left Isle Royale what it could not have 
 been had it responded to the expectations of capitalists: left it a lovely 
 retreat for the tourist in the midsummer heats. Where else might one 
 so delightfully play hermit or Crusoe, as in this solitary isle, where solitude 
 might have the charm of being so near to civilization as to admit all the 
 force of contrast? Its castle-like cliffs rise sheer from the water, so that 
 at their foot a vessel might ride at anchor ; and its lonely light-house, 
 deserted log cabins and abandoned mines give one a curious impression 
 of an extinct civilization, which contrasts forcibly with the wildness and 
 freshness of the surrounding scener}-. 
 
 Farther up the coast is Thunder Bay, between which and Black Bay 
 is Thunder Cape, a high promontory, jutting far out into the lake. The 
 rock in some places rises a perfect perpendicular from the bay, and on the 
 summit is the crater of an extinct volcano. The black thunder-clouds 
 which overhang these dark, basaltic peaks, were thought by the Indians 
 to be the dim forms of strange, colossal birds brooding upon their nests. 
 
 At the base of this cliff, not far from shore, begins the long, low 
 Silver Island, whose name is less a misnomer than is that of Isle Royale. 
 A few years ago silver was taken from these mines by the ton, and the 
 yield, though now far less abundant, is still steady. The surface is so 
 low as to allow the waves to break over it in storms, but it has been 
 protected by dikes and breakwaters. 
 
 Next comes Neepigon Bay, or Bay of Clear Waters — a name which 
 might be applied to most of the Lake Superior inlets. The bay contains 
 a number of small islands abounding in the finest game, and furnishes 
 excellent fishing ; but its chief interest attaches to the river which flows 
 into it, which, according to the Munchausen stories of hunters and 
 Indians, came from an immense lake in the interior. Recent explorations 
 show that it takes its rise in a lake thirty miles from Lake Superior. The 
 
NORTHWEST TOrRI<T GUIDE. lOl 
 
 lake is seventy miles long by fifty broad, is studded by a thousand minia- 
 ture islands, and is characterized by the same remarkable species of rocks 
 which so strikingly ornament the whole copper-producing region. 
 
 Beyond Neepigon Bay the coast grows wilder and is less inhabited. 
 The few roving Indians, and the camps of hunting parties here and there 
 along the beach hardly lessen the impression of deep solitude which 
 pervades the woods and waters. 
 
 Michipicotou Island, with its broad bay surrounded by hills, and its 
 beautiful and diversified interior, would make a lovely spot for a summer's 
 residence. 
 
 At Otter Head there is another of those remarkable cliffs which dis- 
 tinguish the Lake Superior country. On the summit of the cliff, which 
 rises absolutely perpendicular from the water, is a rock whose outline 
 presents on one side the face of a man, and on the other the head of an 
 otter. The aborigines regarded it with peculiar veneration, and in passing 
 the point made offerings to the Manitou of the place. 
 
 Such are some of the more interesting and noteworthy localities of 
 the North Shore, for a tour of which Duluth forms the best starting place. 
 The whole region is a Paradise to the good hunter and the- lover of 
 Nature undefiled. 
 
 No traveler should leave the vicinity of Duluth without taking the 
 short trip to the Dalles of the St. Louis river, a stream which pours itself 
 into Lake Superior a little southeast of Duluth. What are called the 
 " Dalles " are about four miles long. The rapid descent of the river, and 
 the consequent succession of falls; the vertical banks, and the gloomy 
 slate rocks through which the impetuous water forces its way; the many 
 colored water itself, now dark and bronzed, in deep and silent places, now 
 amber and golden as it leaps over some rocky barrier, flaunting its white 
 crest of foam, to make a waterfall; the contrast of all this with the soft, 
 tremulous green of the leafy world upon its banks— all this makes the 
 Dalles well worth seeing by tourist, painter, or poet 
 
102 EA^^B, McNALLT & CO:S 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 MARQUETTE— ESCANABA— MACKINAC— MICHIGAN FISHING— GRAND HAVEN. 
 
 MARQUETTE, 
 
 Named after Pere Marquette, the early French explorer of all this western 
 country, is situated on the southern shore of Lake Superior, nearly mid- 
 way between the Sault Ste. Marie and Duluth. It is the largest city on the 
 northern peninsula of Michigan, and is the headquarters of the great 
 mining interests of that section. Indeed, for a number of years, it was 
 regarded as a mining centre solely, with few attractions for tourists on 
 account of its inaccessible situation ; for, previous to the completion of 
 the railroad connections south, Marquette was reached only by steamer 
 and stage in summer, and by snow sledges in winter. Now, how^ever, it 
 is one of the most thriving places in the country, while it has such attrac- 
 tions for summer visitors as to make it well known even in the far East. 
 
 The site of the city, on the shores of a deep bay, is a peculiarly beau- 
 tiful one, and the growth of the place has been so uniform and substan- 
 tial that the mushroom shanties and squatters' hovels on the outskirts of 
 many "Western cities of rapid growth are not noticeable here. It is very 
 largely a community of cheerful, tasteful homes, in which the breadth 
 and liberality of the West are combined with the culture and refinement 
 of the East. There is a broad and deep sentiment of hearty hospitality 
 among the people, which is one of the great charms of the place to stran- 
 gers, rendering a summer's visit here one of the bright spots in one's life. 
 There seems to be an influence in these vast tracts of forest, these un- 
 limited beds of mineral wealth, this grand expanse of inland sea, which 
 insensibly acts upon the minds of the dwellers thereamong and widens 
 their perceptions of their duty toward their neighbors ; at least, whatever 
 may be the cause, they never fail to show every friendly attention to 
 strangers, and to provide for them the most agreeable forms of entertain- 
 ment that the neighborhood affords. For this and other reasons, there are 
 few places in the Northwest so thoroughly enjoyed by their visitors, 
 particularly those w^ho become regular habitues, year after year. 
 
 The city has a population of about 10,000, and, for a place of its size, 
 it has exceptional advantages. Indeed, whenever any city is the com- 
 mercial centre for a considerable section of country, it alwa5''S assumes 
 metropolitan privileges and customs far in advance of what might have 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 
 
 103 
 
 l>een expected of a town of its population ; and, as Marquette holds a 
 commanding position over the whole Northern Penmsula, it is quite an 
 interior metropolis. Its streets are not only broad and well paved, but 
 they are also well lighted and well kept. Its railroad accommodations 
 are well arranged, its banking and business facilities are excellent, and the 
 means of indoor and outdoor entertainment unsurpassed. 
 
 Those who go there solely for amusement and recreation, will find the 
 
 bay an unfailing source of pleasure. Every style of watercraft can be 
 had, from a pair-oar shell to a schooner-rigged yacht, and skillful, expe- 
 rienced boatmen can be engaged very reasonably. The followers of Isaac 
 Walton can ply the gentle art of angling with such uniformly gratifying 
 success as to excite the enthusiasm of even the least devoted fisherman. 
 Nor are the fish simply hungry noodles, anxious to be caught ; a five- 
 pound lake trout or whitefish will give the sportsman such an amount of 
 labor, and demand such a display of skill as to make him worthily proud 
 
104 
 
 RAND, McXALLT & CO.'S 
 
 of his success in landing it. But the great spoiH is to go out in a steamer 
 to the whitetish schools. Tliere are many small steamers engaged in the 
 business, and they can be chartered for a day or longer by parties desir- 
 ous of participating in the amusement. Sometimes as many as a dozen 
 of these steamers will cruise in company, and, as a school of the eager 
 fish are sighted, the fleet will immediately bear down upon them. There 
 are certain well recognized rules which the steam eis observe with regard 
 to each other, and, in consequence, there are often times when a number 
 of the fishermen are so busy that they can Inrdly haul in their fish and 
 
 bait their 
 hooks fast 
 enough.while 
 the others are 
 obliged to 
 look idly on 
 and wait for 
 the exasper- 
 ating fish to 
 come to 
 
 them ; per- 
 haps in the 
 next school 
 their relative 
 positions will 
 be quite re- 
 versed. But 
 it is exciting 
 while it lasts. 
 Some skillful 
 anglers will 
 handle seve- 
 ral lines at 
 once, the 
 same as is. 
 
 customary on the codfish banks ; but the average visitor to Marquette 
 will be quite satisfied with the catch of one line. 
 
 The bay contains several large, well-wooded islands, which are very 
 favorite resorts for picnic parties ; and, as people visit them in every style 
 of boat, the scene on the bay is often remarkably brilliant and livel3% 
 Still longer excursions are made in yachts and steamers to the northern 
 shore of Lake Superior in search of shooting and brook-trout fishing. 
 There is no finer field for the sportsman anywhere in the world, especially 
 as the hunters have not yet become so numerous as to make the game 
 scarce and unnaturally wary. It should be remembered, however, that 
 
 GITCHE-GUMME, NEAR MARQUETTE, 
 
NORTHWEST TOURISr GUIDE. 105 
 
 the Hudson Bay Company have the sole privilege of shooting and trap- 
 ping in this section, and gentlemen who simply go there for sport should 
 obtain a permit from the company's agent, to make sure that they will 
 not be interfered with while on the hunting grounds. There are any 
 quantity of Indians on this shore of the lake, and they are all very 
 friendly and accommodating, having been Christainizcd by missionaries 
 living among them. They still live quite au naturel, however, and are 
 very little civilized. They make the best guides, and can be hired very 
 cheaply. 
 
 Excursions are also frequently made from Marquette to the Pictured 
 Rocks, a remarkable natural curiosity on the south shore, about midway 
 between Marquette and the Sault Ste. Marie. They are usually spoken of 
 as natural formations, althou?h it is claimed that they are largely the 
 work of the ancient races of Indians. 
 
 For many classes of invalids, Marquette possesses advantages of a 
 very marked character, while on the other hand there are some diseases 
 which would perhaps be aggravated by the climate. The air is very clear 
 and bracing ; in spite of the proximity of the lake, it is generally a pure, 
 dry air, rarely subject to sudden changes of density or temperature. The 
 summer heat is never very great, and though the cold in winter is often 
 uncommonly severe, it is not felt so much as higher degrees of tempera- 
 ture are in many other places. Travelers should always take with them 
 to Lake Superior, even in the middle of summer, a complete outfit of 
 warm clothing, wraps, traveling-rugs, etc. 
 
 The accommodations for tourists in Marquette are very much supe- 
 rior to those of even more frequented and fashionable summer resorts. 
 This is applicable not only to the hotels but to many well arranged cot- 
 tages and boarding-houses, so that the visitor can obtain very satisfactory 
 quarters at prices varying from $7 to $14 per week. 
 
 ESCAI^ABA. 
 
 The above name, to most Western people, is vaguely suggestive of 
 great mining interests and nothing else ; yet, in addition to being the 
 centre of one of the greatest systems of mines in the world, it is a place 
 intensely attractive to the summer tourist. It is situated at the very head 
 of Green Bay, on a peninsula formed by that bay and Little Bay de Co- 
 quette to the north. It has, therefore, the perfection of this northern 
 lake climate in summer, the average temperature for the hottest months 
 being less than 70'^ Fahrenheit. 
 
 The rich deposits of iron ore in the northern peninsula of Michigan 
 have not been worked many years, yet already the production is so enor- 
 mous as to supply not only most of the West and Northwest, but also 
 many Eastern markets. As Escanaba is the shipping point of more than 
 
106 RAND, McNALLY & CO:S 
 
 one-half the ore and pig-iron of the peninsula, there is no point where so 
 good an idea of the vast importance of this interest can be obtained. 
 The Chicago & North-Western Railway Company state that the average 
 amount of ore and iron (mostly the latter) passing through their docks for 
 1874 was 7,000 tons daily. 
 
 Many persons who go to Escanaba for the summer spend their whole 
 time there without a visit to a mine, although there are few excursions 
 more entertaining. The descent can easily and safely be made, and 
 unless one is an invalid, one can make a detour of the levels without 
 fatigue or great discomfort. It is always a much more interesting trip 
 than people usually imagine, and, as there is rarely any difficulty in ob- 
 taining a permit and an intelligent guide, it is commended as a very 
 agreeable way of spending a portion of a day. 
 
 For the sportsman, Escanaba furnishes every attraction that theh"feart 
 could wish, fish, flesh and fowl being all within easy reach. The fishing 
 in White Fish Bay can not be excelled for whitefish, sturgeon and lake 
 trout ; while all the small streams in the back country are full of that 
 delicious game fish, the speckled trout. In the woods may be found par- 
 tridges, squirrels, wood-ducks and other small game in abundance, while 
 the marshes and streams are the favorite haunts of the duck, goose, brant, 
 wild swan and other waterfowl. Those mighty nimrods who desire large 
 game can find both deer and bear in considerable numbers at the proper 
 season, and at times the latter become so numerous and bold that the 
 hunters, unless experienced and skillful, are liable tofind the tables turned 
 upon them by an enraged and slightly wounded bruin. 
 
 There are many visitors who spend several months in Escanaba every 
 summer, to enjoy its pure air and the delicious, health-giving fragrance 
 of the pines. There are grand old woods in close proximity to the town, 
 and for persons whose lungs are delicate (not diseased) the atmosphere of 
 these forests of noble pines is remarkably healtby. The bay and river 
 afford every opportunity for boating of all kinds, and almost every va- 
 riety of craft can be hired at moderate prices. The hotel accommoda- 
 tions are excellent, and board can be obtained very reasonably in pri- 
 vate families. 
 
 MACKINAC. 
 
 This beautiful island-paradise is rapidly becoming so well known 
 throughout the whole country that it seems almost superfluous to give a very 
 detailed description of its attractions, yet it has so many points worthy of 
 extended description and comment that it is impossible to condense a 
 notice of the spot. The situation, midway between Lake Michigan and 
 Lake Huron and within easy reach of Lake Superior through the Sault 
 Ste. Marie, is such as to promise the perfection of summer climate, and 
 there are few visitors thereto who are not enthusiastic over both the cli- 
 
NO U TnWEST TO URIS T G UID E. 107 
 
 mate and the natural beauties of the place. One of its strong points, the 
 reputation of which is now known through the length and breadth of the 
 land, is the marvelous effect of the air upon those unfortunate sufferers 
 who are afflicted with that subtile and exasperating complaint known as 
 ''hay fever." The victim, accustomed to a long and annoying attack of 
 this disease at a stated period every year, can here find instantaneous 
 relief. Indeed, by commg even a day in advance of the time for the attack, 
 it will be wholly prevented, and the patient will find relief for the whole 
 year by remaining as long as the usual duration of the attack. There are 
 many residents of Chicago, Cincinnati, Detroit, Cleveland, Milwaukee, 
 and other Western cities, who make a habit of visiting Mackinac on this 
 account alone, until it bids fair to become as popular on this score in the 
 West as the White Mountams are in the East. A visit here is an absolute 
 and never-failing preventive of this unpleasant disease, and many people 
 who have resorted to every form of remedy are now as regular in their 
 visits as the seasons. 
 
 Aside from this feature, however, there are so many attractive fea- 
 tures about the place that it is quite a fashionable resort every summer. 
 It is still in the primitive wilderness, however, and this fact gives it an 
 added charm for that large and rapidly increasing class of the heau monde 
 who desire novelty above all things. The ordinary round of watering- 
 place pleasures is so quickly made that it soon palls upon the taste as one 
 goes through it year after year ; hence, a visit to such a spot as Mackinac, 
 on the confines of civilization as it were, has a freshness which is pecu- 
 liarly attractive. The combination of fashionable pursuits with the sur- 
 roundings of Nature unadorned is so rare that it is not strange that even 
 the most indolent belle of society or the most blase club-lounger should 
 feel a new impulse and a solid satisfaction in the atmosphere of Mackinac. 
 
 Here there is a little world in itself, and, though the waters which lap 
 its shores may not be the waters of Lethe, yet there is an isolation from 
 the great mass of humanity, " the world forgetting, by the world forgot," 
 which gives a freer, happier, more genuine life to those who visit these 
 enchanted shores. The mainland on both sides of the channel and the 
 adjacent islands are still in their primitive roughness, and are the homes 
 of considerable numbers of friendly Indians. Here there can be seen the 
 untutored child of the forest in all his aboriginal worthlessness. As the 
 steamers approach the landing, numbers of these stolid redskins will 
 throng around in canoes, offering berries, maple sugar and basket-work 
 for sale or exchange ; sugar, tobacco and fire-water are the articles they 
 most desire, though they rarely get the last-named. Their baskets, made 
 of birch bark, are often very neatly designed and tastefully ornamented. 
 
 The island is the property of the United States Government, and it 
 has been dedicated as a national park by act of Congress, so that there is 
 no reason to fear any destruction of its beautiful natural scenery by the 
 
108 ■ IIAXI), McXALLT ct CO.'S 
 
 Goths and Vandals of the age, who would subordinate the picturesque to 
 the utilitarian and embellish the face of the Pyramids with advertise- 
 ments of quack medicines. Tliere are ample accommodations for visitors 
 on leased ground, however, and the revenue derived from these leases by 
 the Government is applied to the improvement of the island. Mackinac 
 was, for many years, a military post, the idea in maintaining a garrison 
 there having been that it commanded the entrance to Lake Michigan and 
 partly controlled the passage to Lake Superior. For this reason in the 
 war of 1812 the British made a descent upon it, easily capturing the small 
 garrison. They then proceeded to fortify it by erecting quite a strong 
 redoubt on the highest point of the island, about three-quarters of a mile 
 from the site of the town. A small squadron was afterward sent there by 
 the Americans and the vessels being too small and their guns too light to 
 make any impression on the British works, an assault was made by the 
 troops of the expedition under the command of a'Major Holmes. The 
 latter was killed, however, and his men, finding themselves less numerous 
 than the defenders of the fort, were obliged to withdraw without accom- 
 plishing their object The squadron cruised about the island for some 
 time longer, but the island remained in the possession of the British until 
 the close of the war, when it was restored to the United States. The old 
 fort, which was called Fort George by the British, still exists, and is 
 known as Fort Holmes, in honor of the ill-fated American commander. 
 There is another fort, directl}^ overlooking the town, which has long been 
 used as a garrison-post. It was built nearly one hundred 5'ears ago by the 
 British. The quarters are of course modern, and are usuall}' occupied by 
 a small detachment of United States troops. 
 
 In the southeastern part of the island is a projecting cliff called 
 Robinson's Folly. A former commandant of the fort, Captain Ro<binson, 
 a wealthy and convivial officer, once built a wonderful summer-house on 
 the very edge of this cliff. He spent a great deal of money upon it and 
 made it a most extravagant and fantastic affair, although assured by old 
 residents that the waves would soon undermine the face of the rock and 
 carry his beautiful castle down into the depths below. Their predictions 
 eventually proved true, and nothing now remains of the costly toy to show 
 where it had once stood ; indeed, the march of the waves has progressed 
 many yards into the face of the cliff. One story represents that Captain 
 Robinson gave a great dinner party in his villa, and that, on the day set, 
 there was a. terrible storm raging. Nevertheless, out of pure bravado, he 
 and several of his jovial companions went on with the dinner, and, during 
 the carouse that followed, the weaves beat with such violence that the 
 building was swept away with all its occupants. This is a story to be 
 taken with many grains of uncertaint}'' ; still, it will do to tell. 
 
 Further on is a bold spur of limestone rock jutting out from the cliffs 
 and standing with its base in the lake, while it inclines inland at such a 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 109 
 
 marked angle as to be quite worthy of the name it bears : Leaning Rock. 
 It forms quite a landmark, and is well known because it is m such close 
 vicinity to the justly celebrated Arched Rock. The latter is reached by a 
 foot-path either along the beach to the base of the arch, or up the cliff to 
 the top. This is a great natural curiosity of the type of the Natural 
 bridge of Virginia. It is a lofty mass of solid rock rising to the height 
 of 150 feet above the lake level, pierced by an opening in the shape of an 
 arch about 90 feet across. The width of the rock at its summit is only 
 about three feet, differing greatly in this respect from the Virginia bridge ; 
 nor is it so regular and massive as the latter, and, though it possesses many 
 of the peculiarities of its southern prototype, it can not be regarded as the 
 latter's rival. Still, it is a grand illustration of the power of Nature in 
 moulding and fashioning the world, and even the most distinguished 
 savants are unable to agree upon a theory to account for its formation. 
 
 For romantic rambles and enchanting opportunities for picturesque 
 research this island of Mackinac is unsurpassed among Western resorts, 
 and morning excursions of discovery are highly popular among visitors. 
 A rough, loose costume, a well filled lunch knapsack, an alpenstock and 
 a congenial companion, are about all the essentials of such an expedition, 
 and by the time one has made a sunrise visit to the top of Arch Rock, 
 climbing precipitous bits of path almost at the risk of one's neck, there 
 is a species of fascination in the sport which can be gratified only by fre- 
 quent indulgence. There are no regular, carefully-arranged pathways 
 around the most attractive scenery of the island, and, though they can 
 readily be reached without great trouble, there is considerable added 
 pleasure obtained from the slight difficulties surrounding them. Thus 
 there is a semblance of a pathway from the beach to the top of Arch Rock 
 directly, while, by another route, the visitor can return to the water's 
 edge, passing through the wide portal in the rock along one side of the 
 abutment supporting the bridge o'erhead. 
 
 Another beautiful spot is called the Giants' Stairway. It consists of 
 rugged fragments of the cliff thrown down in huge boulders so as to form 
 a series of gradually rising steps to the summit. Over these an active, 
 fearless person can climb without danger, and the ascent is really well 
 worth making. Descending to the beach on the other side, one comes to 
 the cave which tradition has marked as the last resting-place of a love- 
 lorn Indian maiden. Here for a long time the Indian girls were wont to 
 gather at a certain season and strew flowers ; but they have long since 
 abandoned the custom, if, indeed, it ever existed. This so-called grave 
 relates directly to the bluff overhead, which is the next object of interest 
 to be visited. 
 
 No well regulated summer resort can enter the lists to compete for the 
 patronage of tourists without possessing a clift' known as the Maiden's 
 Rock, or the Lover's Leap. Indeed, it would seem as though some mis- 
 
no RAND, McNALLT d- CO:S 
 
 anthi'opic party must have traveled all over this country at an early day, 
 hunting up all the precipitous gorges and bold, rocky fronts, in or^der 
 that he might christen them as above and then invent some preposterous 
 and ghastly legend to be attached to each of them. If this misanthropic 
 fiend had been gifted with a faint touch of originality, he might, per- 
 haps, have been endured in silence ; but, as his blood-thirsty anxiety to 
 plant the ghost of a mangled Indian girl at the foot of each of these 
 places was only equaled by the paucity of his invention, so that by the 
 time the American tourist has wasted his sympathy and sentiment over 
 about a dozen of these hypothetical love-sick idiots, he begins to feel 
 that there is such a thing as a limit to his credulity. However, there is 
 a Maiden's Rock on the Island of Mackinac, and there is also, of course, 
 a legend connected therewith ; and, as it differs somewhat from most of 
 the others, it may be allowed to pass. The spot is very romantic and the 
 rock itself quite imposing, being pyramidal in shape and very steep on 
 the face toward the water. It is said that an Indian chief of a tribe on 
 the mainland having wooed and won the affections of a maiden of the 
 tribe inhabiting Mackinac, returned to his tribe to prepare for the recep- 
 tion of his future bride. Meantime the bride's people made all arrange- 
 ments for the wedding, and the day was fixed. Tradition does not record 
 the reason for the fickleness of the lover, but contents itself with the 
 bald and unsatisfactory statement that, on the day of the intended wed- 
 ding, instead of the bridegroom, came a courier announcing that the 
 faithless chief had wedded a daughter of his own tribe. The jilted maid- 
 en, never having been educated to appreciate the soundness of the prov- 
 erb that " there are as good fish in the sea as ever were caught," took the 
 disappointment so much to heart that she went to this precipitous rock 
 and jumped into the waves below. 
 
 There is another and a less poetical version of the legend to the effect 
 that the chief, having discovered that his first wife was not able to do all 
 the work of the lodge, and that he could easily afford to support another, 
 sent a canoe for his jilted lady-love; and, that, while she, by leaving her sun- 
 bonnet and a. calico gown at the top of the cliff, pretended to have com- 
 mitted suicide, she did not jump off at all, but walked down a side path 
 and went off with the "big Injun" who was waiting for her on the 
 beach. Some people will not believe this story either, bnt the author 
 submits that, though not so romantic as the other, it is much more 
 probable. 
 
 The interior of the island is no less attractive than the coast line, 
 and as carriages can always be hired by those who have not the time or 
 the inclination to make the tour on foot, there is no lack of means to 
 visit the whole island. On the road to Fort Holmes is a lofty elevation 
 called Sugar Loaf Rock, which rises to a height of about 125 feet above 
 the adjacent level, or to about 280 feet above the lake. It is quite solid^ 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. Ill 
 
 and at a distance it would appear impossible to scale it ; but there are 
 many fissures in its sides and these are often the holding places of young 
 evergreens and vines, so that the ascent is not very difficult to a good 
 climber. The summit once reached, the view is exquisite, this being the 
 highest point of the island. On every side the eye falls upon picturesque 
 and romantic views — bold cliffs and rugged ravines, with lovers' nooks 
 and flirtation walks filling the foreground, while the distance fades off 
 into broad landscapes, harmonious in arrangement and coloring ; and, 
 beyond all, the sea, delicately, tenderly blue, flecked with the dancing 
 crests of light and happy waves. Standing here and gazing at all the 
 generous gifts of Nature to this favored spot, it does not seem strange 
 that the Indians should have called it the Enchanted Isle. 
 
 On the north side of Sugar Loaf is a deep opening several feet above 
 the ground. It is not much of a cave, but it is a most convenient shelter 
 in case of a sudden rainstorm, as it will hold a large party without crowd- 
 ing in the least. There is, however, another cave on the island bearing 
 the ominous title of Skull Cave. It is a short distance to the right of the 
 road leading to the old battle ground, and it received its name from the 
 discovery therein of a large number of human skulls and other bones. 
 It is unknown whether this place served as a sort of burial place for the 
 Indians, or whether the remains found were those of a party who, having 
 taken refuge there, were smoked to death by their enemies. It is now 
 rarely visited by tourists. Still another subterranean resort is called 
 Scott's Cave in the northwestern part of the island. It can not be found 
 nor adequately explored without a guide, and each member of the party 
 should have a candle. 
 
 The point where the British troops landed in 1812, when they captured 
 the island, is a very fine sloping beach, and not far distant is the site of 
 the battle ground where Major Holmes of the American army fell in his 
 unsuccessful attack in 1814. The place is about two miles west of the 
 fort and is now called Early's farm. In this vicinity is an immense boul- 
 der, which has accumulated enough soil on its top to give sustenance to a 
 very fine cedar tree of great age. This boulder is sometimes called the 
 Altar of Friendship, as the Indians had some tradition connected with it 
 making pledges there given peculiarly sacred. It is also called Treaty 
 Rock, since the treaties between the Indians and the Whites were always 
 signed and acknowledged there, owing doubtless to the before-mentioned 
 superstition. 
 
 As if one Maiden's Rock were not sufficient, Mackinac is blessed (or 
 cursed) with another of a similar character, the name in this case being 
 the Lover's Leap. The most impressionable man or the most sentimental 
 woman would refuse to be harassed by two tearful tales of jumping 
 maidens in the narrow limits of a tour around the Island of Mackinac — 
 especially when the hero's and heroine's names respectively were Ge-niw- 
 
112 RAyn, 3icNALLT <& co:s 
 
 e-gwon and Me-che-ne-mock-e-nung-o-qua. No, there's no use of manu- 
 facturing a love story in this case ; if Me-che-ne-mock-e-nung-o-qua ever 
 jumped over this cliff, quite a sufficient excuse for her can be found in 
 her name, and the only wonder in the matter is that Ge-niwhat's-his-name 
 did not accompany her. 
 
 To the west of the Lover's Leap is one of those geological paradoxes 
 which so frequently occur to disturb the peace of mind of the man of 
 science. It is an upright column of stone nearly cylindrical in shape, and 
 is called Chimney Rock. How it was cut out and left standing isolated 
 from support, is one of those mysteries which thus far "no fellah can find 
 out." It is regarded by eminent geologists as a most interesting object 
 of study. 
 
 On the southwestern shore of the island, between the British Landing 
 and the town, is a peculiar double cavern called the Devil's Kitchen. 
 There are two caves, one above the other, separated by only a thin wall 
 of rock, and connected by a small aperture. Probably a fierce fire in the 
 lower cave could be made to roast a very large dinner in the upper ; at 
 least, so far as space is concerned, the cooking accommodations are ex- 
 cellent. 
 
 The foregoing, though including most of the prominent features of 
 the island, does not, of course, profess to give in detail the vast number 
 of spots of beauty and interest with which the island is filled. These must 
 be visited to be appreciated, and once seen, they are usually sure to cause 
 the visitor to return again and again. The accommodations for tourists 
 are highly satisfactory, hotel board varying from $2.50 to $3.50 per day, 
 while the boarding-houses average about $9 per week. There are plenty 
 of carriages, boats and guides to be had at fair prices, but a bargain 
 should always be made in advance. For long excursions a steam yacht 
 is preferable to one which depends upon the wind, as calms are not 
 infrequent here during the summer months. 
 
 FISHING- IN MICHIGAN. 
 
 There is a vast expanse of wild but beautiful country in the southern 
 peninsula of Michigan extending down the ^ast shore of Lake Michigan 
 from Mackinaw City nearly to Grand Haven and clear across the State to 
 Bay City. More particularly, however, is this the case with the country 
 recently opened to easy exploration by the completion of the Grand 
 Rapids & Indiana Railroad to Petoskey. It is true that the country is 
 newly and sparsely settled, and that the luxuries of older communities in 
 the way of food and conveniences can not be had ; but these places will 
 for some j'-ears yet be the resort of such tourists only as appreciate the 
 beauties and gifts of Nature above mere sybaritic pleasures, and who 
 will, therefore, carry with them the contented mind which is a con- 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 113 
 
 tinual feast. While game is abundant in the forests, the principal attrac- 
 tion tp the sportsman lies in the rivers and lakes, for this is the home of 
 some of the noblest fish that swim, and every variety of the gentle art of 
 angling can here be successfully practiced. 
 
 Traverse City, at the head of Grand Traverse Bay, is a favorite 
 point of departure. It can be reached from Chicago by steamer or rail- 
 road. The place has a population of about 2,500 persons, and the ac- 
 commodations are very good. The bay is a beautiful sheet of water, 
 partaking of one characteristic of the streams of this region — the water 
 is remarkably clear, so that a stranger is always deceived as to the depth 
 in which he is fishing The bay contains muscalonge, whitefish, bass, 
 lake trout and pickerel in great abundance, and the adjoining small lakes 
 are similarly stocked, with the exception of lake trout. These lakes are 
 situated at a distance of from three to twelve miles from Traverse City, 
 as follows : Cedar Lake, three miles ; Long Lake, six miles ; Bass Lake, 
 eight miles ; Carp Lake, eight miles ; Traverse Lake, ten miles, and 
 Betsie Lake, twelve miles. In all of these and in the baj'-, the fish 
 will take the spoon readily, and many of them will require a very experi- 
 enced sportsman's utmost skill before they can be landed. Particularly 
 is this the case with the muscalonge, which not only grows to a great 
 size but also shows a cunning and a spirit rarely exceeded in any fish. 
 There have been known cases where these fish have been taken in their 
 old age with as man}'- as fifty hooks in their mouths and gills. 
 
 But, beside the fish heretofore mentioned, there is another variety to 
 be found abundantly in this vicinity — the brook trout. The Boardmau 
 river, which empties into Grand Traverse Bay at Traverse City, is gen- 
 erally considered to be the finest trout stream in this peninsula of Michigan, 
 and all its numerous small tributaries are also stocked with thousands of 
 this beautiful and delicious fish. The water is very cold and clear, with 
 a swift current and a generally sandy bottom ; it is navigable in small 
 boats, but is not too deep for frequent wading when the enthusiastic 
 sportsman prefers this mode of whipping. In this case, however, abso- 
 lutely water-proof boots should be worn, as the temperature of the water 
 would otherwise induce cramp. Besides brook trout there are some gray- 
 ling caught, though they are usually called garpins in this vicinity. As 
 many parties prefer camping out to hotel living, it is customarj' to engage 
 boats and guides here for an extended tour. A guide alone can be had for 
 $2 per day ; a boat alone, fifty cents per day; guide with boat, $2.50 to 
 $4 per day ; with team, $4 to $6 per day. 
 
 This portion of the State is not only a rich field for the sportsman, but, 
 if he happens to be here in the autumn, he will find the orchards laden 
 with the finest fruit in great quantities ; the peaches of this section are 
 particularly fine in appearance and flavor. Traveling about from one 
 stream to another the tourist will see a variety of styles of people and of 
 
114 RAND, McNALLY & CO:S 
 
 life ; and, while one day he may take dinner at the table of a good hotel 
 in a thriving town, the next day he may be eating corn beef and cabbage 
 with a '*down east " settler in a log cabin ; but he will be apt to find, 
 wherever he may go, clean beds and good living, even though it may not 
 be prepared in the best style of modern cooking. Moreover, if his visit 
 be in the fall, he will have a perfect feast of fruit, for, in spite of the high 
 latitude and the cold weather in winter, this region is a great fruit-rais- 
 ing country, and the finest kinds of apples, pears and peaches are very 
 abundant. 
 
 There are any quantity of cold springs scattered through the woods, 
 and the guides are all well acquainted with the best camping places. On 
 some accounts the parties who camp out are more comfortable than those 
 who depend upon the country inns and farm-houses •, the expense for 
 a trip of three or four weeks is only a trifle more. 
 
 After traveling between twenty-five and thirty miles up the Boardman 
 river, a short portage can be made to Fife Lake, on the railroad, between 
 Kalkaska and Grand Traverse counties The lake is a beautiful spot for 
 a camp, and there are also several pleasant, comfortable hotels. About 
 five miles south is the Manistee river in whose waters the celebrated gray- 
 ling is found in great abundance. As this fish is little known outside of 
 these, his native, waters, the following description, taken from the report 
 of the Michigan State Fish Commissioners, will give an excellent idea 
 of the beauty and gameness of this valuable fish : "The marking of 
 this fish [Thymallus tricolor^ commonly known as the grayling, garpin 
 or Manistee herring,] is peculiar and unique, being as beautiful as rare. 
 The large first dorsal, while giving character to the whole fish, is of itself 
 a marvel of beauty. At its lower extremity are tints and colorings not 
 unlike the plumage of the peacock. But perhaps the more wonderful 
 attraction of the dorsal fin lies in the fish's habit of using it. When the 
 fish is in repose, the fin droops and rests upon the back, having the 
 appearance of being folded. But when commencing to move, espe- 
 cially if the movement be angular, almost instantaneously the dorsal 
 becomes distended, the front part rigid and the back part waving like a 
 flag in a strong wind. At such times the fin is very beautiful, and is 
 altogether the most noticeable thing about the fish. The ventral fins are 
 also strongly marked. Bars of different colors and shadings run laterally 
 and cover the entire surface of the fins. Now, add to the foregoing a 
 delicately proportioned head, a handsome and wonderfully expressive 
 eye, dark brown spots or patches along the anterior sides and above the 
 lateral line, a most symmetrical outline and figure united with great grace 
 and facility of motion, and you have the most attractive and remarkable 
 of the American fauna." 
 
 The grayling is as game as the brook trout and is quite as wary, so 
 that many old fishermen, having caught trout year after year all their 
 
NORTHWEST TOURIST OUIDE. 115 
 
 lives, find an unusual pleasure in taking a fish which has the charm of 
 novelty in addition to the good qualities beinnging to the trout. It is 
 found plentifully in the Manistee, Muskegon, Hersey, Pine, Au Sable and 
 other rivers of Michigan, but nowhere else. They have begun to attract 
 so much attention among sportsmen outside of the State that efl:brts are 
 making to stock the streams of Central New York with them. The 
 largest yet reported as having been caught weighed about five pounds, 
 though such a size is, of course, very rare. 
 
 Manistee river, one of the best grayling streams, is wide and deep, 
 the current varying from three to five miles an hour, so that it is essential 
 to have good boats to navigate it. There are few boats owned along its 
 banks and almost none of these can be hired, so that parties are obliged 
 to bring their own craft from Clam Lake, on the south, or Fife Lake, on 
 the north. 
 
 Kalkaska, on the upper waters of the Boardman river, is another fine 
 trout centre, the fishing in that river and in the Rapid river, about three 
 miles north, being unsurpassed. There are also numerous small lakes in 
 the vicinity, where black bass and pickerel are very plentiful and eager. 
 
 About forty miles north of Kalkaska is Pine Lake which affords ad- 
 mirable trolling ; but the most celebrated spot thereabouts is the Jordan 
 river, emptying into the south end of the lake, said to be the finest trout 
 stream on this continent. All the country in this vicinity is wild and un- 
 settled, so that the tourist must come prepared to camp out. Indeed, 
 everywhere among the many streams and lakes for which this portion of 
 Michigan is noted, the same story may be told of them all : they are the 
 angler's paradise, and for many years they will doubtless present the 
 most desirable fishing in the United States. They are so much alike in 
 their surroundings and in the quantity and quality of the fish, that, once 
 established on any one of these streams, the fisherman will be quite con- 
 tented to remain there as long as his time and means will permit. 
 
 GRAND HAVEN. 
 
 Directly across Lake Michigan from Milwaukee is the active little 
 city of Grand Haven. It is a place of considerable commercial import- 
 ance, owing to its railroad and lake-steamer connections, but it is also 
 well known on account of the curative properties of the waters and the 
 beautiful situation of the city for summer pleasures. Spring Lake, only 
 a short distance inland from the city, is also a place of great resort, and 
 indeed, from their close proximity to each other, they may be spoken of 
 jointly. There are several very fine hotels, quite worthy to rank with any 
 of the first-class hotels of many more pretentious places, and the large 
 number of visitors yearly entertained shows that the attractions of both 
 Grand Haven and Spring Lake are widely known and appreciated. 
 
116 NORTHWEST TOURIST GUIDE. 
 
 Spring Lake is the course usually adopted by the rowing clubs of 
 Michigan, Illinois, Ohio and Wisconsin for their annual Northwestern 
 Rowing^Regatta, and this event always attracts very large crowds of visit- 
 ors, most of whom are interested in the success of some particular crew, 
 either on account of State or sectional pride, or from personal acquaint- 
 ance with the oarsmen. Other regattas also take place over the Spring 
 Lake course, and there are always many varied forms of pleasure and ex- 
 citement. This is also the great fruit centre of Michigan, and in Septem- 
 ber the number of bask^^ts of peaches sent to market through Grand 
 Haven is perfectly enormous. 
 
 The waters of the springs are particularly efficacious in curing rheu- 
 matic, neuralgic and dyspeptic difficulties, and this fact alone would be 
 sufficient to attract thousands of visitors, even were there no other advan- 
 tages. Already the residents thereabouts are disputing with Waukesha 
 the right to the title, "The Saratoga of the West," and the claim seems 
 to be in some respects a strong one, inasmuch as the watering-place facili- 
 ties of Spring Lake are probabl}' more similar to those of Saratoga than 
 are those of Waukesha. However, as they both have such throngs of 
 constant admirers, it is probable that the day is not far distant when they 
 will both stand on their own merits and not try to borrow an interest from 
 some fancied resemblance to an Eastern resort. 
 
 There are all kinds of accommodations to be had, varying from $1.50 
 to $3.50 per day for transient hotel guests ; permanent board can be had 
 at rates varying from $10 to $20 per week at the hotels, and from 
 ^8 to $15 in private families and boarding-houses. 
 
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