PORT TO LISTENING POST Hu£h T. Kerr t Q Class JlL Book Y7 \\^ fopynghtN . CGEXRIGHT DEPOSIT. Oh < u w w 35 H g > < a z o W i-i Q O CO Port to Listening Post HUGH T. KERR ii ASSOCIATION PRESS Nbw York: 347 Madison Avenub 1918 J7 ■><. !>S 7 I— I w r o O w H M JO > n M O >-d w w D <— i G THE HEART OF THE CAMP 55 the body. We try to minister to the health of the soldiers. We believe that a sound, healthy physique makes for military efficiency and so our athletic de- partment initiates games and sports and out-of-door exercises." "This side of the Triangle," he continued, "repre- sents the mind. Men cannot live by bread alone and the 'Y' seeks to feed the mind by furnishing the men with libraries, lectures, magazines, and inspirational addresses. The Triangle also speaks of the things of the spirit. The Y M C A serves in the name of Him who came not to be ministered unto but to minister, and to give His life a ransom for many." This gave Dr. Mott an opportunity to point out that the entire work of the Association was motived by the Gospel and that this was the way the Chris- tian churches of America were relating themselves to the men of the Army. The King was interested, and Dr. Mott was grate- ful for his opportunity. The first hut in France was a tent. It was donated by the women of the "Twentieth Century Club" of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. The Association has now nearly 900 centers with our American Army in France, and 600 points of contact with the French Army. The huts in the French Army are built and equipped by the French Government and are manned by a French Director and an American Secretary. The French huts are called Foyer du Soldats. The American hut may be an abri tent which will take care of a hundred or two hundred men; it may be a school house or a 56 PORT TO LISTENING POST hall or the Hotel de Ville obtained from a French village where the troops are billeted; it may be a dugout or a cellar in a destroyed and abandoned town near the front, or it may be the standard single or double frame hut erected for the purpose. In each standard hut there is an audience room used for lectures and moving picture exhibitions at night, for writing and reading room during the day, for church on Sunday. At one end is a platform with a piano and a victrola and with a table or desk for a pulpit. The allied flags are draped behind the plat- form and on the walls American Liberty Loan and French government posters give a touch of beauty to the interior. At the end opposite the platform is the canteen, where the men can secure the little things all soldiers need. Around the walls near the windows or in the center of the room are benches and tables with ink and pens. Letter paper is furnished free at the counter. Behind the canteen may be two or more rooms used by the Secretaries for bedrooms or offices. If the hut is double, there is a second large audience room. It may be equipped as a lounge room, with a separate apartment for the officers, furnished with chairs, tables, books, magazines, and a fireplace. Both audience rooms can be thrown open and a packed house welcomes a distinguished guest, a French officer, a minstrel show, a boxing match, or a visiting clergy- man. In the beautifully appointed and tastefully fur- nished hut in one of the aviation camps a tablet tells of the love that made such provision for the boys. THE HEART OF THE CAMP 57 The words of the tablet speak a message of splendid heroism : To THE Happy Memory of Pilot William Henry Meeker Corporal In the Foreign Legion This Y. M. C. A. Hut is Dedicated Died Sept. ii, 191 7 Aged 23 The hut is the heart of the camp. In the hut the boys meet their friends, write their letters, play their games, exchange photographs, read the current maga- zines, secure their copy of the Stars and Stripes, the Daily Mail, or the Paris edition of the New York Herald. In the hut they get their baseball and bat, basketball, boxing gloves, a cup of chocolate and a sandwich from one of the Y M C A women, an apple or an orange, dates and figs, cigarettes, and tooth paste. In one of the port cities of France five American lads, strangely dressed, were inquiring their way to the hut. They were neither in sailor costume nor soldier uniform. There was nothing to distinguish them. They came into the hut for a few cigarettes and a little chocolate. After their wants had been supplied, they sat down in a corner in quiet content. We watched them and wondered where they belonged, and then, after a few moments of friendly conversa- tion, they told their story. They had just come in 58 PORT TO LISTENING POST from sea. Their boat had been torpedoed and they had been picked up by an English patrol boat. Their ship had sunk in less than five minutes and seven of a crew of thirty-eight had been drowned. One of the five had been torpedoed six times, twice in one day, and he told how in his dreams he had been three nights in the water, and yet he was all eager to return to the sea again. Instinctively they had sought the "Y," which ministered to their bodily comfort, and to them it was a haven of peace. No department store carries on more multiplied activities. The "Y" furnishes paper and envelopes, pens and ink. It gives a warm place by the fire, per- haps the only cosy spot in the camp. It cashes Army checks when banks refuse, and when the boys run out of money it takes their I. O. U. It supplies to- bacco, which seems to be the first requisite of the sol- dier and the sailor, and matches which seem to be the second requisite. I was told that at one time the "Y" had in its possession one-third of all the matches in France. Next to tobacco come New Testaments and chocolate, chewing gum and peanuts, oranges and apples, figs and dates, soap and candles, hymn books and crackers. The following statement by the War Council con- cerning shipments to France during the first year con- tains interesting information: "In addition to the enormous quantities of cigars, cigarettes, and canned fruit sent to France, the con- stantly expanding needs of the American Overseas forces had dictated up to March 31, the shipment by THE HEART OF THE CAMP 59 the Y M C A of 2,578 cases of biscuits, 230,724 pounds of cocoa, 374,605 pounds of coffee, 446,208 cans of condensed milk, 193,483 sacks of flour, and 90 cases of coughdrops. In addition to shipping across 331,446 pounds of chocolate, the YMCA takes the entire output of three factories in France, an average of 1,000 tons of bar-chocolate a month. Athletic goods by the ton were sent over, among the principal items being 1,271 cases of material, in- cluding baseballs, basket balls, indoor baseballs, boxing gloves, footballs, baseball gloves, masks, and pads, medicine balls, soccer balls, volley balls, playground balls, and punching bags. To provide soldiers with writing material for the letters home, the Y M C A in this period shipped 360,- 000,000 sheets of writing paper and envelopes to France. The varying needs of the soldiers were re- flected in the shipments of 34,760 cans of jams, 3,295,- 735 pounds of sugar, 274 chests of tea, 21,000 phono- graph records, 350 talking machines, 621,212 pounds of chewing tobacco, 643,040 pounds of smoking to- bacco, and 204,480 tubes of tooth paste. For the entertainment of the American boys in the war zone, the YMCA shipped approximately 1,000,- 000 feet of motion picture film, as well as a full com- plement of projecting machines and motion picture accessories. In addition, the organization sent over thousands of blankets, scores of lighting plants, hun- dreds of thousands of razors and blades, as well as shaving soap, toilet soap, soda fountain syrup, auto- mobile tools, stereopticon slides and sundries, auto- mobile parts, and tires." In one shipment to France the following items ap- peared on the bill of lading: 4,000,000 letter heads and envelopes ; 144,000 pens and penholders ; 75 mov- 60 PORT TO LISTENING POST ing picture machines ; 60 tons of chocolate ; 1 carload of condensed milk; 1 carload of canned "hot dogs"; 125 talking machines with 6,000 records ; 55 tons of sugar; 75 tons of flour; 20 tons of soap; 10,000 song books ; 30,000 copies of Scripture. The "Y" has become one of the world's greatest business corporations. It is a corporation with a soul. The hut takes the place of church, club, store, but most of all, of home. When I was speaking one day to the Army from the text, "What is your life?" the boys were asked to fill in their own answer, and the first answer that came back was "Home." This is the word that counts for most in the Army. A piece of writing paper left on the desk in a hut with the words "My dear Mar- garet" is typical of the attitude of the Army. Millions of letters home testify to the value of the hut in the life of the soldier. I brought home from the front hundreds of messages for the friends and parents of the boys I met in France. Here are some of the ex- pressions scribbled upon scraps of paper, backs of envelopes, or on a page out of a boy's notebook. "I only want to tell you that I am perfectly well and I am thinking of you all at home, and wish many times that I was over there with you." "Father and Mother : Everything going all right." "Dear Mother and All : Just a line to let you know I'm well and send my love to all. Lovingly, your son." "Tell Mother I'm getting along fine." "Corporal George McG. sends love to his mother, also to Miss Helen." THE HEART OF THE CAMP 61 "Will you kindly remember me to the girls of the Fifth Avenue Dormitory? I shall never forget your message ?" "Tell him you saw me. I was feeling fine and that I hope some day to see him again." "Tell her you saw me. I was feeling fine and through you send my love and best wishes." "Tell Mother I am sending this message with the Y M C A man. I am O. K. Your son." "Love to yourself and baby. All's well. I'm glad to be where I am. Love. Everything O. K." "Tell them I'm going good. From her son Archie." The last Sunday I was in France was Mother's Day. All over France the boys in the Army were celebrat- ing. American homes know that thousands of mes- sages came over the wire, and it is the "Y" that plans and makes all this possible. The Mother's Day program sent out to the boys in every hut contained this ideal mother's letter: "My dear Boy: Your father says to tell you that he will give his son to his country, but that he will be — (never mind what) if he will give all his new suspenders. He says you pinched three pairs from the top drawer of his bureau — he adds that he is onto your curves/ Nora says you were very wise to take them, and she would give you all of her's, if she had any. Betty says to tell you that she hears Jack Ellis sails next week — I know just how his mother will feel for those ten days while he is crossing. But she wouldn't have him stay at home, any more than I would have had you. All 62 PORT TO LISTENING POST the same, she won't have a good night's sleep until she hears he has landed. I keep thinking what a different world it will be to mothers, when you all come march- ing home again. And when you do come marching home — old fellow, bring me back the same boy I gave my country, true and clean, and gentle, and brave. You must do this for your father and me and Betty and Nora — and most of all for the daughter you will give me one of these days. Dear, I don't know whether you have ever met her yet — but never mind that. Live for her, or if God wills, die for her — but do either with cour- age, with honor and clean mirth. But I know you will come back to me — Mother." Glimpses of the work carried on by the men and women in the service of the Y M C A may be ob- tained from the following letters. The first refers to one of many similar services performed by clergymen serving as "Y" Secretaries. "Office of the Attending Surgeon. U. S. T. P., P. O. 702, April 18, 1918. From: The Attending Surgeon. To: Chief Secretary, Y M C A, Paris. Subject: Rev. Mr. Benedict. 1. On behalf of the Medical Department, U. S. Troops, Paris, it is desired to express our appreciation for the services rendered by the Rev. Mr. Benedict of the Y M C A in visiting a Lieutenant of the Army who was dying of smallpox in one of the French hospitals for contagious diseases. He was informed of the great danger of contracting this disease, but was not at all deterred from his duties. THE HEART OF THE CAMP 63 2. Please accept our sincere thanks for the services rendered by Mr. Benedict in this case. Thomas C. Austin, Major, Medical Corps." Mr. Benedict stayed with the dying soldier for two hours until he passed out into the quiet and then com- municated his message of comfort and hope to the sorrowing parents in America. The second letter carries a message of Christmas cheer. "Hut No. 2, Base Camp, No. 1. Mr. E. C. Carter, December 28, 1917. Paris, My dear Mr. Carter: It was nearing midnight of Christmas Eve when we first inspected the contents of the three 'Santa Claus sacks' of presents sent us by the Paris office for distribution among the soldier-boys in our encamp- ment; we had just taken part in a real Christian Christmas service of prayer and song and carol and heart-to-heart talks about the man, Jesus Christ ; every man present became deeply, intensely and earnestly aware of Him as the Prince of Peace and Leader of Men in all things and at all times, and many have cheered our hearts by speaking to us individually of their feelings of comfort and hope, renewed and re- affirmed. But any weariness that we may have felt after giving of the very depths of our spiritual life, was forgotten in waves of amazement and pleasure that swept over us as we burrowed to the bottoms of those Christmas bags. But we did not then anticipate the joy and fun we were to have the next night when we distributed them at our Christmas tree. We could not retire until we had put up three big packages of 64 PORT TO LISTENING POST the contents to send off with a company of 250 men who were leaving the camp and would be spending their Christmas in box cars. We added candy, ciga- rettes, cookies, and cigars for the officers, and then went to our cold cubicles at half after one to dream of the morrow, first setting the alarm at 5.30, that we might be sure to arise in time to deliver the packages before the boys left. We kept our engagement with Santa Claus all right and sent them off with the 'Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from the YMCA' and a 'bon ap petit' to aid in the enjoy- ment of the turkey dinner whose cold, well-roasted drumsticks were protruding from a barrel in the sup- ply camion. Our Christmas entertainment went off with a bang. There was a good crowd and we all enjoyed a good sing-song, with an excellent quartet and some old- fashioned carols and solos. Some Santas were equipped from the contents of the bags and we all took part in distributing the toys and whistles, paper- caps, etc., among the eager and joyously boisterous soldier-boys. What a tooting and a shrieking and a bedlam of fun ensued, lighted up by the sudden flares and fiery splutterings of the fake cigarettes or inter- rupted by the loud laughter when some lad opened a surprise box of matches, or by the explosions of the snappers. What curious capers the men cut in their gay headgear ! They were all boys once more, and we are almost sure that no family of lads in America had more fun than they when Santa came around. Barnum and Bailey's parade and brass bands had noth- ing on us when we all lined up and encircled the parade grounds in a grand march of Christmas joy. It seemed from the noise they made that the men wanted and expected the folks across the waters to hear and to take comfort from the fact that they THE HEART OF THE CAMP 65 were actually happy on this night, even though they were in the far-off 'Somewhere in France/ The little tin fifes and rubber bagpipes and rattling drums played all the famous marches of the Allies in per- fect discord. The Officer of the Day rushed out, expecting to be swept off his feet by an invasion of the Hun hordes. As the line swung back into the Y M C A hut, in twos, they were served by the ladies to cups of hot chocolate, cigarettes, and cakes, and we gave them the Christmas Greeting cards of the Y M C A, with our own personal good wishes and an extra card or two to send home to their folks. We all feel that the party was a success; our hut was like a home to every man; there was no disorder of any kind, no jostling for hand-outs or anything of the sort, and at the hour of departure numbers of the boys came up to us and thanked us for one of the best Christmases they had ever enjoyed. Today there is a different spirit in the camp and a change of attitude towards the Y M C A. We did not forget the prisoners, white or colored, but gave them a treat the next night. We will not forget their gratitude or the speech of one of their number, who told us feelingly of their appreciation of our remembrance. We as workers want to thank the Paris office for the fact of being actually drawn nearer to the men than ever before, and for the feeling of real coopera- tion with the whole organization of the Y M C A as shown by this splendid sensing of the needs of the soldiers, and the actual meeting of those needs. Wishing you a happy New Year, we are, Very sincerely yours, W. D. Shipps. Roy A. Welker. D. H. Hoves, Jr." 66 PORT TO LISTENING POST The hut may be at the front. It may be in a room of what is left of a house in a ruined village. It may be in a shell proof shelter near where the trench system begins and where already some of our workers have laid down their lives. One "Y" worker, a man past middle life, had been removed by the Army during a gas attack and had been taken to the hospital. For hours we had searched and finally discovered him in a French hospital, which was cleverly concealed in a forest by the side of the road. He was far past middle life and had insisted upon going to the most dangerous point on the Ameri- can line to man the Y M C A hut — a mere dugout built there for the boys in the trenches. They told us he had stood at his post when the attack was on and had been carried off unconscious. He greeted us with a cheery smile, but could only talk in a whisper. "Yes," he said, "It was the gas . . . got me . . . but I'm all right . . . now. I will soon ... be back ... at my work . . . again. I hope . . . you can visit . . . the boys at the hut." That was a request that could not be denied, and after a friendly visit, we made our plans to go to the place where he had left his comrade to man the hut alone and to minister to the men in the trenches. We had to wait until the dark came down before we could reach the hut. The roads had all been photo- graphed and registered and danger lurked in every foot of that front line. When it grew dusk we started. The Ford camion- THE HEART OF THE CAMP 67 ette was ready, and chocolate, cigarettes, matches, crackers, figs, candles, and a few knicknacks were stowed away for delivery. What a ride it was — over roads dark and shell-torn, past ammunition trucks working their way to the front through the long road-lane safeguarded by camouflage on every side and overhead, past trees torn by shrapnel, and through destroyed and desolate villages, over hills gutted by shells with abri-shelters here and there in the rocks and soldiers standing sentry. There among the wooded hills the masked batteries spoke their tragic message. At last we came to the end. The road went no further. The highway ran right into the "Y" dugout on the hillside. A group of soldiers stood at the door of the hut waiting for the supplies we had brought. Their wel- come was heard before we arrived. "Here comes the old 'YV they shouted. I noticed one of the men standing apart from the rest, with his helmet split up the back. My companion said, "How in thunder did you do that?" "Shrapnel," he said, and turned away to break off a piece of chocolate. He was muddy, discouraged, and dispirited. While the canteen sup- plies were being taken off, and the shells went shriek- ing and crying over our heads, he told me what had happened. "I've had about all I want," he said. "When the Boches turned their barrage on us, some of the fellows couldn't stand it and were ready to run, but there was no place to run to, so we stood up to it. It was our first experience under fire. Yes, one of my pals was 68 PORT TO LISTENING POST killed at my side and some were wounded, and when the gas came over, others were caught. When the shrapnel struck my helmet, I said, 'That's your num- ber/ and when I looked, I saw a piece of hot iron at my feet, and here's my cap to show for it." He was silent for awhile and his thoughts were far away. Then he said, "Why do you fellows come out here? God knows what we would do without you. But I can't see through your game. The 'Y' is like father and mother to us, but you don't have to come. None of you belong to the draft age. The man that drives that Ford out here every night is nearly sixty years old. Why do you come ?" he said. "You don't have to." It had never been put up to me just like that and I couldn't answer. Metcalf, who had driven the car, is a college professor. His exact age is fifty-seven, and no one could ever charge him with being a slacker, and no one would ever dare to ask him why he was there. Only one "Y" man was in the dugout and for awhile we talked together about the fighting and then of home. He belonged to the same place back home as I did, and we talked of the people we knew and of the big city. He plucked a few flowers from the hill- side and wrapping them in a piece of newspaper asked if I would deliver them back home to the one he loved. Searching for an answer to my hero's ques- tion, I said, "Why did you come out here ?" He looked at me as if I had said something foolish. "Because I couldn't stay at home," he said. THE HEART OF THE CAMP 69 "How long are you going to stay?" His answer came quick and sure : "Till the war is ended right and a year after." When I saw my friend with the smashed helmet he had had a cup of hot chocolate and a few figs and was feeling like a fighting man again. The "Y" had performed the ministry it came out to do, and that elusive thing officers call "morale" had been again established. He was ready to go back in the morning and avenge himself and his country for his lost pal. "I know why you fellows are here," he said. "You are here because we are here." He was right. The "Y" men had come with the American Army to win the war. CHAPTER VI THE WORLD IN FRANCE The world is in France. To France in our day, as to Jerusalem in days gone by, the tribes of the world go up. We thought the world was in America. We have been accustomed to speak of America as the melting pot of the world. From every nation under heaven, people have come to America to be molded into democ- racy's ideal citizenship. Today, however, France is the melting pot of the world. In France we discover the new internationalism. While men discuss "The League to Enforce Peace," some such league has gathered on the shores of France. Every nation that loves liberty and raises the standard of freedom is represented today in France. The ship upon which we traveled to France spoke of this new internationalism. The passenger list in- cluded people from all ranks and from all nations. We had on board a group of American marines pre- pared for naval aviation in France. There were fifty Y M C A Secretaries equipped for service in the American, French, and Italian armies. There were twelve Y W C A women going for service in French munition plants and with American telephone girls. We had with us twenty-five men of the Red Cross who 70 THE WORLD IN FRANCE 71 were to see service on the battle front and to report their findings to the American people. There were twelve women doctors, ready for surgical service in the hospitals of France. Dr. Alexis Carrel, the eminent French surgeon who has done so much to alleviate the suffering of war's wounded and shat- tered humanity, was returning to his ministry of mercy on the battle front. Men high in the ranks of world diplomacy were there — the "French High Commis- sion" returning from its visit to America; the Amer- ican minister to Switzerland going back to his post; the Serbian ambassador to France returning from his official mission to America; and the representative of the American Embassy to France. Men distinguished in military science were there — among them Major Requin, who had carried General Foch's message to the French Division which struck the victorious blow in the Battle of the Marne. There were educators and entertainers going forward for service with our troops and with the soldiers of France — among others Madame Giles of the French Opera, Elsie Janis of the American stage, and Ella Wheeler Wilcox, who told how her study of world religions had resulted in the familiar verse: "So many gods, so many creeds, So many paths that wind and wind, And just the art of being kind Is all this old world needs." The mingling of the nations in France has given a new France, a France that is no longer pleasure- 72 PORT TO LISTENING POST loving nor fashion-following, but a France that is serious, war-scarred, heroic, and defiant; a France that during four years of war has by her men in blue held 304 out of the 400 miles which make up the western front. It is France represented by her women in black who cry through sorrow and sacrifice, "Vive la France!' It is France whose Army proclaims against all the forces of iniquity the triumphant watchword: "They shall not pass." Into the motherland of France have come all the children of France. The colonies of France are there — Senegal, Madagascar, Tunis, Algeria. The France of Europe and the France of Africa are there, united and victorious. To one of the French colored men from North Africa one of our colored soldiers from the Southland made overtures of friendship, but was greeted in the French language, which conveyed no meaning to the soldier from America. His confusion found expression in the words, "For the Lord's sake, here's a nigger who don't know his own language." Belgium is there in the person of her Army, her orphaned children, and her refugees. The Belgian Army tenaciously clings to a little strip of land fifteen miles from the French frontier, her government exiled, her heroic King and Queen living under the sound of the guns, everything gone but honor, the blood of her martyrs crying unto the nations for vengeance by night and by day. Great Britain is there. She is there and on four- teen other fronts. She has driven Germany from her colonies and closed the gates of the sea upon her com- THE WORLD IN FRANCE 73 merce. She is there with her great Army. Her ''con- temptible army" of 160,000 has grown into millions. In two years she put 5,000,000 volunteers into France. Her casualty list for 191 7 was 800,000. Her casu- alty list for the month of May was 40,000 a week. She has raised the age of enlistment to fifty, and, while her Navy guards the high seas and makes possible the transport of our troops to France, she defies the power of Germany in the west. Scotland is there. Out of a population of 5,000,000 Scotland has sent to the colors 1,000,000 men. It is perhaps the greatest record in history, and, so efficient has been that army that Harry Lauder, loved and honored among men, has humorously said that if all the Army had been in kilts, the war would have been over long since. The people of Ireland and of Wales are there. Conan Doyle gives high praise to the Welsh, and all the world knows that the first Victoria Cross granted in this war was won by an Irishman. With all her children, Britain is there. Canada is there. For nearly three years Canada has represented the spirit of the western world on the battle field. So truly has the pulse of Canada beat in harmony with the best spirit of the United States that the call which brought 400,000 Canadians to the colors brought 30,000 Americans across the line into that same Ca- nadian Army. One out of sixteen of the population in Canada has entered the service and 41,000 have laid down their lives on the battle field in France. Australia is there. The Australian soldier, with his jaunty hat and defiant stride, has a peerless record 74 PORT TO LISTENING POST among the soldiers of the Allied Armies. Of their own accord 400,000 volunteers have crossed 12,000 miles of sea, and, while 100,000 of them have been wounded and 47,000 of them have laid down their lives, only 3,000 have been taken prisoner by the enemy. The record of the colonies of Great Britain is an illustrious one. The presence of the troops from South Africa is one of the marvels of history. In fifteen years the land that was Britain's fighting foe has become, through the wise and wonderful colonial policy of the motherland, changed to fighting friend. Even India, from whom Germany expected so much, has responded to the call of the Empire. The best maps of the harbors and roads and cities of India are in Berlin. The best wireless station in India was erected on the smokestack of a German mission station and from that secret wireless station the "Emden" got her information concerning the movement of ships in the Indian Ocean. Yet India has sent a million men to the front, and has justified the words of Kipling, "Who dies if England lives." Italy is there. During the great spring drive we saw the armies of Italy moving up into the French battle line. America forgets that the Italy of today, the Italy of Cavour and Mazzini and Garibaldi, is yet a child among the nations. Nevertheless she has equipped and thrown into the battle nearly 4,000,000 men, and holds the Central Powers at bay. Serbia is there ; and Portugal and Poland. I visited a Polish camp in the heart of France, a camp im- THE WORLD IN FRANCE 75 mortalized by the letters of Alan Seeger, and there I found 5,000 American Poles in French uniform training for the coming battle. It was one of the most interesting of all the camps visited. Lovers of art and music, they were discovering ways of expression un- thought of in other encampments. They had taken limestone, and pieces of broken glass, and had fashioned from them wonderful representations of the American flag, of the Polish ensign, of President Wilson and Marshal Joffre, and had decorated each barracks with its own distinguishing insignia. They had created from among themselves a band consist- ing of thirty pieces and were training to play "The Marseillaise," "The Star Spangled Banner," and "God Save the King." From their long day's march we saw them come swinging into camp to the lilt of a song. China is there. The most interesting service I was present at in France was a Chinese service. No one seems to know how many Chinese there are in France. To the publisher of an American encyclopedia, which stated that there were 500,000 Jews in America, Mark Twain wrote, saying there must be some mistake, for he knew that many personally. I think I saw at least 500,000 Chinese in France ! They are laboring with the French and British and the American troops, building roads and railroads and acting as laborers in camp construction. There are about a thousand in the barracks which we visited. They thought they were in America. They had come across the Pacific and had gone through Canada and across the Atlantic and they thought they were then 76 PORT TO LISTENING POST m America. A few days before I reached the camp a tragedy had taken place and an American sentry had shot a Chinese. The Chinese had not understood what was wanted and had insisted on passing along the highway, so he had paid for his mistake with his life. The men were sullen and resentful and the Army Staff was unable to secure satisfactory service from them. The whole situation was menacing and ominous. When conditions were most dangerous, a Chinese missionary, Dr. Walter Scott Elliot, stepped into the camp. He came as one of the YMCA Secretaries. He had been in China for fifteen years. Immedi- ately the atmosphere changed and the situation im- proved. He was able in a few hours to discover the mind of the Chinese workmen and to relate them to the American Staff. His presence increased their efficiency fifty per cent. The night he arrived we went to their barracks, a great dark room filled with wood smoke. We carried two or three bushels of peanuts and a basket of cigarettes and after we had disposed of our wares, which took only a few minutes, they gathered around us and around the two candles which lighted the darkness and listened to a talk on the obedience which gives freedom. The service of these Chinese and Indian missionaries who teach the men how to read and write, who interpret their needs and necessities to the Army, and who minister to them in their spiritual affairs, is one of the finest services rendered by the Y M C A in France and has of itself justified the foreign missionary policy of the Chris- tian Church. Writing from one of the camps, where THE WORLD IN FRANCE 77 he had been sent at the urgent request of the Army, one of our Chinese missionaries acting as a Y M C A Secretary, wrote to Mr. Fred B. Shipp at the Paris headquarters : "Army Post-Office, Number 713. "Dear Mr. Shipp : "The situation here is such that I do not see how I could be needed more anywhere in Europe. In my camp there are about 800 Chinese. 250 more came last night, and 300 this afternoon. All the men are from my province, Shantung. Some are old acquain- tances and they understand every word I say. They received me most cordially and the officers who are directing them in their work say I have increased their efficiency one-fourth. "Major Bates is enthusiastic about the YMCA work. "Charles A. Leonard." Russia is in France — poor, betrayed, and bewil- dered Russia. Soldiers that once fought side by side with British and French are now marking.time, await- ing the day of delayed deliverance. Even Germany is there in the person of her pris- oners — Germany that can betray and deceive but can- not defeat; Germany that has three allies and no friend. And America is there. She occupies land from the ports of entry to the Vosges Mountains. The Amer- ican troops line the highways of France. They represent all America — America from shops and schools, from colleges and farms, from cities and villages, America East and West, North and South, 78 PORT TO LISTENING POST America black and America white, America native- born and naturalized. Americans born in England, Scotland, Ireland, Canada, Africa, Cuba, Italy, Poland, Austria, even in Germany itself, are there. It is America one and united that is in France today. Rev. Robert Freeman, who has had much to do with the religious work connected with the Y M C A in France, has given this thought beautiful expression. We come from Old New England, We come from Siskiyou, We mowed the grain upon the plain, We picked the cotton too; We mined in far Alaska, We built the Roosevelt Dam ; We staked our claim, but all the same, We're one for Uncle Sam. Our fathers came from Scotia, Or they crossed the Irish sea, There's blood in us of Frank and Russ, We sing of Italy ; We're sons of Johnny Bull, We're sons of Abraham. It took the earth to give us birth, We're one for Uncle Sam. We're off to fight for freedom, In lands of foreign speech, To make them feel from Kut to Kiel, The length of Samuel's reach, We're off to fight for freedom, From here to Ispaham ; To bear our stars and flaming bars, For man and Uncle Sam. THE WORLD IN FRANCE 79 We're one for Uncle Sam, We're one for Uncle Sam, It used to be for you and me, But now it's Uncle Sam, In danger anywhere, In earth or sea or air, The Boche and Hun will find us one, All One for Uncle Sam. These boys know why they are in France. They are there because of their righteous indignation. They remember Belgium, with its horrors and atrocities. They remember the Lusitania, with its martyred women and little children. They remember the gas, the liquid fire, and the betrayed signals of the Red Cross. They remember broken promises and open boats at sea. They remember Dernberg and Bernstorrr* and the traitors who directed and inspired the cruel- ties of this war. They have seen images and pictures of Christ defaced and mutilated. In France they have heard stories of martyred men and outraged women, and, while they may not have followed the philosophy that has led Germany into this world tragedy, they know who is responsible and they know that the Kaiser, if he had lifted his hand, could have stayed the storm of war. There is a time to be forgiving and there is a time to be angry. Patience with wrong is not a virtue. Our men have gone forth to the battle fired with a passion of holy wrath. Words written concern- ing John Brown of slavery days make a new ap- peal: 80 PORT TO LISTENING POST "God give us angry men in every age, Men with indignant souls at sight of wrong, Men whose whole being glows with righteous rage, Men who are strong for those who need the strong." But our men are in France, not because of animosity or hatred, but because of love and the passion of a great ideal. They are there because they have known what it is to live under a flag of freedom and they fight for those ideals for which that flag stands. One night under the sound of the guns, we were conducting a quiet Sunday evening service. The boys had been singing some of the old hymns and the last one they sang closed with the words : "In the beauty of the lilies, Christ was born across the sea, With a glory in His bosom that transfigures you and me. As He died to make men holy, let us die to make men free, While God is marching on." After the service a young fellow who had gone forth into the Army from the theological seminary came to me and asked if I would take a message to one whom he loved back in America. She had promised to send him anything he wished, even to half the kingdom, and, taking her at her word, he was making his wishes known. Men are very open about their lives in France and share their secrets with those whom they trust. What did he want from her? He wanted a little American flag, the best she could buy. THE WORLD IN FRANCE 81 And why did he wish it? He wanted an American flag, the best money could buy, to drape over her picture. That story reveals the psychology of the American Army — an American flag, draped around a woman's face. The face may be of one whose hair has grown gray with the years or of a little curly-headed child. The face may be that of mother, wife, sweetheart, sister, or little babe. That is the secret which holds the heart of the American soldier, and for love's sake he suffers and endures all things that they and those whom he loves may be free. When I was in France the Paris edition of the New York Herald offered a prize for the best poem written by one of the soldiers. It was won by Private W. L. Grundish of the 15th Engineers. What he wrote was not for himself only, but for all his comrades. "When I behold the tense and tragic night Shrouding the earth in vague, symbolic gloom, And when I think that, ere my fancy's flight Has reached the portals of the inner room Where knightly ghosts, guarding the secret ark Of brave romance, through me shall sing again, Death may engulf me in eternal dark — Still I have no regret nor poignant pain. Better in one ecstatic epic day To strike a blow for Glory and for Truth, With ardent, singing heart to toss away In Freedom's holy cause my eager youth, Than bear as weary years pass one by one, The knowledge of a sacred task undone." CHAPTER VII A SUNDAY WITH THE ARMY In the first-line trenches Sunday slips out of the reckoning. I met a couple of lads returning from the firing line, who had a wager whether the day they got their leave was Saturday or Monday. Both of them lost. The day was Sunday. In the base camps, however, and along the lines of communication, in port cities when troops are not arriving, in the great construction camps, Sunday has a unique place in the Army. People who say the Army takes no account of Sunday and remind you of the great battles fought on that day fail to dis- tinguish between the front line and the camps of the rear. It is impossible, even in France, to escape the atmos- phere of Sunday. The boys themselves create the atmosphere. Even if the YMCA canteen is open and ball game, boxing bout, or band concert is sched- uled for the parade ground, the day has its own mes- sage and its own great memories for thousands. I have in my mind a picture of one of the most beautiful of France's beautiful roads. It runs between rows of trees and had blossomed into springtime beauty. It follows the course of one of the most fascinating rivers of France. From camp to village 82 A SUNDAY WITH THE ARMY 83 is a distance of four miles and our boys in groups, in pairs, and alone, were taking their Sunday after- noon stroll in the sun. The atmosphere of the whole situation fell upon me like a benediction. A lad of twenty from North Dakota was walking with a group of little French boys. They were making a language path for their friendship by exchanging English words for French. With the help of a little pocket French-English dictionary, they were intro- ducing each other to a new world. They had met by appointment and this was the third Sunday they had been together. Such scenes are common in hundreds of French villages. I was in France on Easter Sunday. The great Ger- man drive of March 21st was on, and the long-range gun was shelling Paris. The air was electric with war excitement. I was under appointment to conduct Easter services at the Y M C A hut in the town where General Pershing's headquarters are located. Travel- ing was very difficult, almost impossible. The railroads were freighted with troops going to the front and many of the stations were crowded with civilians seeking safety — refugees of northern France. The night before we had been in a town where for five successive nights the Germans had dropped their death-dealing bombs. They had threatened to destroy the place in twelve days. I saw the entire population moving out. It was a sight never to be effaced from memory. I saw old men and women led by wounded soldier sons ; boys and girls, each carrying a loaf of bread; little curly-haired children in baby- 84 PORT TO LISTENING POST carriages ; the sick on stretchers — all moving out leav- ing behind them their homes and their shops, moving out to spend the dreaded night upon the roadside, in the woods or in the wine cellars of the hills. In one of the wine cellars where forty people had taken refuge only one escaped when a bomb fell upon their abri. Next day, fifty miles to the south, I found the streets and the station crowded with these refugees who were seeking security, especially for their little children, in the far southland of France. I reached the headquarters of General Pershing long after midnight. The darkness of war was upon the village. Not a light in street or home was to be seen. I felt my way through the narrow streets, lis- tening for a footfall. Darkness is one of the fruits of war and the dark towns of northern France speak of air raids and enemy bombs; at night to walk in the light is a forgotten luxury. A moonlight night awakens other thoughts than those of the poet and instead of being welcomed is dreaded. Next day was Easter Sunday. The morning broke in beauty upon the French hills surrounding the camp. It was the American Army's first Easter since the declaration of war, and every man was thinking back through the months to the old familiar scenes before the war came to claim him. There was everywhere a touch of Easter about the Y M C A huts throughout France. Soldiers and sailors met in port cities, along the lines of communication, behind front line trenches, and joined in the Lord's Supper. A young lad from Pennsylvania, just past his A SUNDAY WITH THE ARMY 85 seventeenth year, said that it was the first Easter he and his widowed mother had been separated, but he felt she would be glad to know he had not missed the Easter Communion. The Chaplain led the morning service in the "Y" hut at headquarters. A group of army boys led the singing. A soldier in khaki played the piano, and an- other the violin. One of the "Y" women, just before the service opened, brought to the table which served for a pulpit a bouquet of flowers she had gathered in the woods nearby. Behind the platform on the wall the French, British, and American flags hung side by side. The hut was crowded with men. They sat on narrow benches without backs. They belonged to the ranks and to the staff; a major and a private, a cap- tain and a sergeant, an orderly and an officer, sat side by side. The hymns spoke of things fundamental — "Come, Thou Almighty King/' "O God, Our Help in Ages Past," "Abide with Me." The sermon was short, as all army sermons ought to be, and the prayers were simple, speaking of home and loved ones, of the wounded, the sick, and the dying, of the day's cares and tomorrow's needs, of the power of God to help and hold forever. All over France that day similar services were re- peated. At one of the aviation centers 700 men crowded the "Y" hut, and 200 remained for the Com- munion Service that followed. In one of the port cities, where Dr. John C. Acheson conducted memor- able religious services, five sailor-lads ran three miles, fearing they would miss the service where a hundred 86 PORT TO LISTENING POST men from the ships were gathering for the Holy Supper. Men were touching God in a foreign land and were holding fellowship with those they loved at home. The great camp, with its restless, buoyant young manhood, is sufficient unto itself Sunday afternoon. It needs no direction, no oversight, no supervision; with a baseball and a bat the American Army can take care of itself when duty ceases to call. Every regi- ment has its ball-team, the best in France, and every hundred yards has its ball-game, with its interested spectators and its applauding rivalry. Company C. of the 15th Engineers claims to have a team that has never been beaten. It is not an unusual sight on a Sunday afternoon to see the people of France watch- ing America playing ball, and behind their intense in- terest they are saying that a good ball-player will make a superb grenade thrower. Meanwhile the band has gathered its own crowd and has stirred memories of Broadway and Fifth Avenue, and as they play the boys break out into singing: "Where do we go from here boys, Where do we go from here? Slip a pill to Kaiser Bill And make him shed a tear; And when we see the enemy We'll shoot him in the rear, Oh joy, oh boy, where do we go from here?" Our Easter Sunday afternoon was spent with the boys in the Roosevelt Hospital Unit. Rev. George M. Duff of the Y M C A had charge of the afternoon's services, and Senator Leroy Percy and I had A SUNDAY WITH THE ARMY 87 promised to help. To spend Easter Sunday in a hos- pital in a foreign land is not the most pleasant of prospects, but we were glad to carry a message of friendly cheer to the men. Some of our boys had been to the front and had returned sick or wounded or gassed, and to ward after ward we carried the sunshine of church and home. We took with us an armful of hymn-books, some Easter pictures, and a little baby organ. At one service Secretary Duff played and I led the singing, and in the next ward the order was reversed. The singing was best when he led, for the mass singing of a group of gassed and wounded men partook mostly of solo singing on the part of the leader, and Duff has a well-trained tenor voice. The services were familiar and friendly. Personal friend- ship goes far in the Army. The men like to be "located" and in a few minutes they had related them- selves to Ohio, Illinois, Tennessee, New York, Mon- tana, Pennsylvania. In France, Chicago and Denver are neighbors, and Pittsburgh and Philadelphia twin cities. Senator Percy told them about America and the unfailing love that held the hearts of the home folk, and of the nation's pride in their well-doing. We read the ever-thrilling Easter story and gave a short talk on the Easter message. The first group needed a word peculiar to itself. It was composed of men who had through their own misconduct brought sorrow upon themselves. They had stood up against the Hun undaunted, but had surrendered to the evil thing that lies in wait to de- ceive and destroy. It was not a word of reproach they 88 PORT TO LISTENING POST heard, but a word calling them to their best. "Love believeth all things, hopeth all things." They listened quietly to words written by a private, and felt the pull of the Spirit within them. "The kid has gone to the colors, And we don't know what to say ; The kid we've loved and coddled, Stepped out for the flag today. We thought him a child, a baby, With never a care at all, But the country called him man-size, And the kid has heard the call. He paused to watch the recruiting, When fired by the fife and drum, He bowed his head to Old Glory, And thought that it whispered, 'Come/ The kid, not being a slacker, Stood forth with patriotic joy, To add his name to the roster, And, God, we're proud of that boy." In the next ward were boys who had been wounded on the Lorraine front. They had gone "over the top" for freedom. One brave fellow, whose wound would put him out of the war, said, when we tried to sympa- thize with him, "Well, war is hell, and hell is fire, and it wasn't a pink tea I expected." One young lad had five wounds and he was cheerfully counting the days when he would be back in it all again. To them the Easter message was interpreted as one of victory, the triumph of truth, the conquest of life at its best, of the living Christ whose triumph is the pledge of victory over every foe. A SUNDAY WITH THE ARMY 89 I shall never forget the evening service. The games of the afternoon were finished, the letters home had been mailed, the walks to the outlying villages were over, and the great "Y" hut at headquarters was crowded to the doors. Two or three hundred men, not able to secure seats, stood during the entire serv- ice. A choir of soldiers led the singing, but little leading was needed. A boy who came up out of the audience sang: "When I fear the foe will win, Christ will hold me fast." French soldiers in blue gave color to the crowd in khaki. One always sees French soldiers, privates or officers, at the "Y" services. Perhaps they wish to improve their English, but frequently they express deep personal interest in the message. Uniforms and official insignia do not change men and these boys in khaki belong to American church-going homes. It is easier to preach to soldiers than to any other group of men. Their religion is unconventional, personal, practical, and vital. Kennedy Studdert in his "Rough Rhymes of a Padre" has touched off the soldier's theology. "It ain't as I 'opes E'll keep me safe While the other blokes go down ; It ain't as I wants to leave the world And wear an 'ero's crown. It ain't for that as I says my prayers When I goes to an attack, But I pray that whatever comes my way I may never turn me back. 90 PORT TO LISTENING POST I leaves the matter o' life and death To the Father who knows what's best; And I prays that I still may play the man Whether I turns east or west. I'd sooner that it were east, ye know, To Blighty and my gal Sue ; I'd sooner be there wi' the gold in 'er 'air And the skies behind, all blue ; But still I pray I may do my bit, And then if I must turn west, I'll be unashamed when my name is named, And I'll find a soldier's rest." After the service a lad came up to the platform and, taking his New Testament from his pocket, opened it and, without a word, showed me where he had writ- ten on the flyleaf my name, the date, and two New Testament texts. "Where did we meet before?" I asked. "Allentown," he answered. . I had spoken in the Y M C A tent at Allentown to the Ambulance Corps in the summer of 191 7, and the message still lived. That is the reward one gets now and again, and it is enough. CHAPTER VIII WOMEN AND THE WAR In a book all women have read, "Sesame and Lilies," John Ruskin says: "There is not a war in the world, no, nor an injustice, but you women are answerable for it; not in that you have provoked, but in that you have not hindered. There is no suffering, no injustice, no misery, in the earth, but the guilt of it rests solely with you." Ruskin feels that women sense injustice and react to cruelty quicker than men. They are quick to gird on the armor for defense and vindication. They glory in heroism and rejoice in valor. Since the days of chivalry war has waited upon a woman's word. If women inspire the sacrifice of war, they also inspire victory. This war could not have been car- ried through but for the bravery, the heroism, the self-sacrifice of the women of the world. We think of the women who have given their men and have sent them forth uncomplainingly. We think of the mothers who have kissed their boys good-bye; of young women just married who have closed their cherished homes, and while their husbands have put on the uniform have girded themselves for service in office and shop and factory; of girls who have turned 9i 92 PORT TO LISTENING POST away their faces from happy and alluring visions of the future to urge those whose lives were linked in love with theirs, to go out into the unknown dangers. "Remember/' said the Captain in a letter quoted else- where, "that it is your mother who is brave, not you." I know a mother in Canada who has sent two sons to the war. After the first month in France they were both reported missing. They had been in the battle of Vimy Ridge and from that day to this no word has come back to her. She still goes about her work; no one has ever seen her shed a tear, but many have heard her say: "I am glad they were willing to go. I would not like to have had them hide behind the sons of other mothers." "Honor the men who fight and fall, Honor the men who fight and live, Honor the women most of all, Who suffer and give. "They give their men, their sons, To make the nations free, They never see the battle field, But they gain the victory." Far down to the south of France I met a woman managing a little shop and selling post-cards to those who would buy. Her face, it was easy to see, had been purified with much sorrow. She had known what it was to suffer. She was one of the refugees from Belgium, proud of the martyrdom of her people in which she shared, rejoicing because of persecution for the cause of righteousness. WOMEN AND THE WAR 93 Everywhere in France one is face to face with hero- ism. One night, near the Verdun front, we slept in a town which in the early days of war had been in German hands. We were billeted in the home of the former Mayor of the village. When the Huns ravaged the country they dragged the Mayor out into the street, made him stand with his back to the wall of his home and shot him dead. In a few days the mother of the household was killed by a German shell. The two girls of that home now live alone in that desolate place and carry on the work of the farm. To such belongs the Croix de Guerre. There are no idle women in France and no weep- ing women. They are all working women. They are the porters at the depots, the guards on the trains, the conductors on the tramcars, the laborers on the farm and in the factory. If the men of France are in blue, the women of France are in black. How magnificently they carry themselves! I saw a French woman serv- ing as conductor on one of the metropolitan trains one Saturday evening. She was dressed in true French taste, and I instinctively felt, even in that under- ground car, as if I were being received by a lady of refinement in her own drawing-room. There is a French woman on the Lorraine battle front who has expended a million francs caring for the graves of the soldier dead. One of our American boys was buried behind the line while we were there, and upon his grave this French patriot placed with reverent hand the Stars and Stripes, the flag for which he died. 94 PORT TO LISTENING POST Over 1,500,000 women are working in the muni- tion factories of Great Britain, and because of this, Britain is now sending to France in a week as much ammunition as was accumulated in all the Empire when war was declared. The women of Britain are soldiers who know how to endure hardship. They wear no sign of mourning, for they walk with their dead in the land of the living. Longfellow called Florence Nightingale "The Lady with the Lamp." There are thousands of Florence Nightingales today upon the battle fields of France and Flanders, holding in their strong hands the light of love and mercy. Writing from the front, one of these women serving in a military hospital speaks for all her companions : "Never have I been so affected and moved in my life as at the hospital this morning. An American lad, right from the front and wounded, was operated on, and while coming out of ether he lived over those minutes before he was hit. It was so dramatic, so terrible that it made our hearts beat faster, for no longer was I in a civilized hospital, but in a veritable hell of mud and fighting. Oh, I have heard French soldiers and I love them, but to hear it in our own dear American slang made me realize that after all it cannot but be one's own country first. He kept crying, 'Ah, I've got that one. Don't tell mother I've killed him, don't. Damn this mud. After them, boys. Fix bayonets, that's a boy.' And with clenched teeth and shaking his fine young head, 'Damn the Huns, the dirty Boches, ah, (a sound of horror) they WOMEN AND THE WAR 95 are coming waves on waves of them.' My merely writing can't possibly make you picture it, the dark- ened room on account of the raid, the smell of ether, the tossing figure and young voice, and there are going to be hundreds of them, thousands of them, with youth and the same splendid spirit in them. 'I forgot/ he repeated endlessly, 'they can't lick an American,' and I knew then that they couldn't, not possibly. Oh, how depressed, how unhappy we are about the whole state of the war! Even if the offensive has been stopped, the losses have been so tremendous, so ghastly that one almost wonders if the game is worth the candle. The poor, poor English ! My little friend, the Welshman here at the hotel — Welsh Fusiliers he is — keeps thinking of his pals lying dead in those woods which England so hardly won to lose again. The thought of the uselessness of the Somme offensive saddens them so." In a military hospital one wonders whether the heroes are the women or the wounded. I have seen refined and cultured women by their very presence bring cheer to a hospital full of wounded and broken men. Every nurse is a front-trench hero. There are about five hundred Y M C A women in France. Two have been mustered out by death, victims of German shells. Under the sound of the guns, I met a young woman, refined and beautiful, a former professor in one of our great American col- leges, serving with the Y M C A, the men of the Army. She was equipped with steel helmet and gas mask. When the Colonel discovered her he said, "What in 96 PORT TO LISTENING POST h are you doing here?" She replied, "I am here to help." She was unafraid and she was invaluable. She understood and spoke French fluently and was the only one in that area who could relate the "Y" to the French Army, and sometimes the only one who could act as liaison between American and French officials. She was worth a half dozen men in the peculiar situation where she served. The Government never calls for help but women are the first to respond. There is a growing group of American telephone girls now in France. I met a dozen of them at dinner one evening. They are sheltered and mothered by a Detroit Y. W. C. A. woman of sense and culture. She has left a home of luxury and comfort and has gone to serve across the sea. These young telephone girls were put in her charge. They had gone to France prepared for any sacrifice. Some of them had cut their hair. Others were equipped with army shoes and all had army uni- forms. For every six months' service they are to re- ceive a gold strip to be placed on the sleeve of their dressy dark blue uniforms, for they, too, are among America's heroes. When the first great German drive was on, General Haig said to his men : "With our backs to the wall and believing in the justice of our cause, each one of us must fight on to the end. The safety of our homes and the freedom of manhood depend alike upon the conduct of each of us at this critical moment." Our men, too, fight with their backs to the wall. The wall upon which they lean is American womanhood. k: > ts D W 2! WOMEN AND THE WAR 97 "Human beings," says Anthony Trollope, "need a wall to lean on, some support is necessary." The sup- port men need is a woman's hand and a woman's heart. This is the answer to the repeated question of home folks, "What can we do?" The answer is, "Stand fast." The words of Ruskin which introduced this chapter may be continued in this connection. "The soul's armor," he says, "is never well set to the heart unless a woman's hand has braced it; and it is only when she braces it loosely that the honor of manhood fails." In the background of the battle the soldier sees a woman's face. In his letters home Coningsby Dawson says: "We have always lived so near to one another's affection that this going out alone is more lonely to me than to most men. I have always had some one near at hand with love-blinded eyes to see my faults as springing from higher motives. Now I reach out my hands across six thousand miles and only touch yours with my imagination to say good-by. What queer sights these eyes, which have been almost your eyes, will witness! If my hands do anything respectable, re- member that it is your hands that are doing it. It is your influence as a family that has made me ready for the part I have to play, and where I go, you follow me." Certain it is, that the touch of home is the touch of power. The songs most frequently sung by British soldiers who have been in the struggle for nearly four years are "home" songs, and the one best known and most loved is : 9 B PORT TO LISTENING POST "In that old-fashioned house in that old-fashioned street, Dwell a dear little old-fashioned pair ; I can see their two faces so tender and sweet, And I love every wrinkle that's there." On the streets of a city in France toward which our American troop trains converge, I fell in with a young fellow who was seeking information which he had hitherto failed to secure. He seemed depressed and soon opened his heart. He had found army life hard. His words were, "I feel myself sagging." He was a retiring lad and the comradeship of the Army had not yet gripped him. He said he had been ordered to one of the port cities of France. I told him of the men and the work there. "They say it's a h hole," he said. I told him that things were better than they were and that he had the secret of security within himself. "Not in myself," he said, "but in this." He drew from his pocket the photo of a girl still in her teens and said, "It's her face that keeps me safe." The faces of the young women serving as canteen workers in Y M C A huts and officers' clubs are the only reminders of home and loved ones which thou- sands of our men in France have. Many of the boys have been careless and thoughtless. They carry to France the same temptations, the same weaknesses which dogged their steps at home. It is a familiar sight in the huts to see young fellows hanging around the canteen for no other reason presumably than to hear a woman's voice, and catch the inspiration of her presence. Since history began, immoral women WOMEN AND THE WAR 99 have always followed the Army, but in this war our men have been followed and helped by good women. The moral value of their service cannot be filed away in any card index system. It belongs to the realm of the inarticulate. The women of the "Y" are at their best when they take the initiative. They furnish and beautify the hut, the officers' club, and the barracks which are assigned to them. They plan for little homelike after- noons when the weather is bad, on off" hours, in the evenings, and on Sunday. They make chocolate and sandwiches. They stand behind the counter and hand out candy, tobacco, crackers, and good cheer. They arrange concerts and entertainments, and pick out the depressed and dispirited for special attention. They recommend books and conduct Bible classes, and are everywhere accredited, "the angels of the camp." One night near the camp, when the guns were boom- ing, we held a short Sunday evening service in a camouflaged barracks. The men were unusually seri- ous. After the meeting broke up a young officer slipped up and said, "Do you know the 91st Psalm?" I began, "He that dwelleth in the secret place of the Most High, shall abide under the shadow of the Al- mighty. I will say of Jehovah, He is my refuge and my fortress; my God, in whom I trust." "Will you come to my room?" he said, and we walked over to the officers' barracks. We sat down in a room dimly lighted and slightly warmed by a little gas-o-peep fire, and he began reading a letter from his wife asking him to make the 91st Psalm his own. Then he told about loo PORT TO LISTENING POST his life and his father's life. It was a fascinating story that cannot be given here. He opened his heart to one who the day before had been a stranger, and he told of his plans for the wel- fare of his men. "What made you such a staunch Christian ?" I said. He took from the wall beside his cot a girl's picture. "She did," he said. "She's the most wonderful woman in the world." It was the picture not of a woman, but of a slip of a girl with laughing eyes and fluffy hair — a girl with a soul, and for him she was like a wall of fire. CHAPTER IX ON LEAVE The first soldier I met in France was recovering from a debauch. He was not an American. He be- longed to one of the armies of our Allies. I met him on the street of one of the great port cities. He was without money and very talkative. According to his statement he had been separated from his money the night before and was now 500 miles from his base camp. We talked about the war and about France and then I asked him about his home. The word "Home" is the key to the soldier's heart. He drew from his pocket a photograph. It was a picture of his wife and his two beautiful children, a boy and a girl, 6,000 miles away. In a moment of penitence he said, "For their sake I am going back on the square, but these days 'on leave' knock h out of me." A soldier "on leave" presents one of the problems of the war. The French soldier can go home. Every- thing is in his favor. He is fighting with his back to his own fireside and has the advantage of being within a day's journey of those he loves. It is wonderful to see the French soldier return to his home after he has served his days at the front. He takes his place in the social order as if nothing 101 102 PORT TO LISTENING POST had happened. Pie returns to his desk again. He takes his place in the working world. He is found in the shop or in the factory. He drives a taxi or a tramcar, and is happy in his old associations and in the fact that he has earned for a week at least more than a soldier's pay. If he is an officer, or has wealth in his own keeping, he will shoot woodcock for a week, or ride horseback with his friends. In a certain sense this is also true of the British soldier. He, too, is within a day's journey of his home. His base camp is within a few hours of the channel, and the channel crossing can be made in a night. The British Tommy and the soldiers from Ireland and Scotland are always within reach of home and in the motherland the Colonials are welcomed in their own language. It is different with the American soldier. He can- not go home. The language of France is strange to him, and Britain to most is a foreign land. His heart leads him to Paris. Paris draws him like a magnet, but Paris is denied him. Those of us who have been in Paris in war time feel that in this, the soldier is subject to no great deprivation. Paris with its dark streets, with its air raids, and its long-range shells, is not the best place in the world for rest and recreation. The supposition is that Paris is denied to the American soldier because there, strong and subtle temptations are presented. The temptations, however, which sol- diers face in the capital city of France present them- selves in even worse forms in other cities, and the soldier "on leave" must find protection within himself. ON LEAVE 103 It is good to know that the United States Govern- ment, and the officers of the Army and Navy desire to do everything in their power to make the life of the soldier secure. Liquor is prohibited to American soldiers, as are also wine and beer containing more than twelve per cent alcohol. Wine shops are closed except during meal hours. The meal hours, however, are generous, the evening hours being from five o'clock till nine! It is impossible for the American Army to regulate the liquor traffic of France, for French trade is sub- ject to French law. The American Army, however, can legislate for itself, and this it has done. Disturbed by the conflicting and contradictory ac- counts of the moral situation in France, General Pershing cabled the following message to the United States Government: "Inasmuch as the press reports indicate considerable discussion regarding recent orders issued by me re- garding the control of drinking, it is deemed advisable to cable pertinent paragraphs of the orders for such use as the Department may care to make. Paragraph 1 1 : Commanding Officers at all places where our troops may be located will confer with the local French authorities and use every endeavor to limit to the lowest possible number the places where intoxi- cants are sold. It is desired that these authorities be assisted in locating non-licensed resorts, which should be reported immediately to the proper authority for the necessary action. Paragraph 12 : Soldiers are for- bidden either to buy or accept as gifts from inhabi- tants, whiskey, brandy, champagne, liquor, or other alcoholic beverages other than light wines or beer. 104 PORT TO LISTENING POST The gift or retail sale of these by inhabitants in the zone of the Army is forbidden by French laws. Com- manding Officers will see that all drinking places where alcoholic liquors named above are sold, are designated as 'Off Limits' and the necessary means adopted to prevent soldiers visiting them. As there is little beer sold in France, men who drink are thus limited to the light native wines used by all French people. Even this is discouraged among our troops in every possible way. I hope to secure the coopera- tion of the French Government to prevent the sale of all liquors and wines to our troops. The question is under discussion. Personally I favor prohibition in the Army, but it is impracticable and inadvisable to issue orders that cannot be enforced without the cooperation of the French Government." The temptation to immorality presents a peculiar problem to our American officials. The laws of France are not the laws of America. The American Army cannot make French laws. Our Army can make laws for itself, and in doing so has succeeded in creating and maintaining the cleanest army the world has ever known. The Army in France is fitter and cleaner than it was when it left America. The official estimate of troops in one of the port cities in relation to venereal disease in October, 191 7, was 16.89 to the thousand, and in January, 1918, it was only 2. 1 1 to the thousand. In February, 1918, there were 674 cases in one of our base hospitals : 348 cases of mumps, 37 pneumonia, 23 measles, 19 scarlet fever, 39 venereal disease, the rest minor complaints. In a camp of 1,200 negroes, only 25 were in the guard ON LEAVE 105 house, 16 being there for absence without leave, 3 for fighting, 2 for carrying pistols, 4 for drinking. The situation has often perplexed and discouraged the men responsible for the efficiency of the Army, but at present everything goes to show that nothing has been left undone to safeguard the morals of our men and that America has succeeded beyond all praise. Sometimes the men when they get their leave prefer to stay near the base. Money frequently is the deter- mining factor. A boy getting $33.00 a month, after he has paid for his Liberty Bond and his insurance and sent home a little to his family, has a narrow margin upon which to take a vacation. And the American soldier does send money home. In March the soldiers sent through the Y M C A to their homes in America $97,000, and during the first two weeks in April they sent $95,000. To the soldiers who remain in camp the Y M C A owes particular responsibility. The Athletic Depart- ment of the "Y" is a veritable means of grace. The men become soggy with monotony. They come back from the trenches with a peculiar emotional life that concentrates itself upon the war. Their thought goes round and round the treadwheel of trench life. Call it shell shock or what you may, it is a physical condi- tion which borders on extreme danger. Reaction sets in quickly and more army men are destroyed through the wrong use of leisure than through anything else. It is then that football, baseball, and basketball become possessed with magic power, and the men are lifted out of themselves into a new world. io6 PORT TO LISTENING POST Those who can afford it may travel while "on leave." They go to the south of France or to Brittany. Many are students and are interested in the history, litera- ture, and life of the French people. They expect to see France before they return to America, and their leisure becomes an opportunity for self-education and personal enjoyment. The chief rendezvous, however, of the American soldier when "on leave" is the rest camps among the French Alps at Aix-les-Bains and Chambery. To these and other leave resorts they go, at the expense of the Army, for a ten days' rest. The valley of the Savoy area is one of the most beautiful and picturesque in the world. Aix-les-Bains is situated on Lake Bourget, which is eleven miles long and lies at the base of Mont du Chat. All kinds of crops are grown in the valley of Aix, the fields are covered with grain, and on the hill- side are the familiar vineyards of France. Higher up are groves of chestnut trees, then the pine woods, and further up the Alpine forests. The snowcapped moun- tains rise like sentinels in the distance, and from the top of Mont Revard a marvelous view can be had of the Swiss Alps and of Mont Blanc. The air is pure and the temperature most regular. It is one of the world's most famous resorts. Its medicinal waters are famous and the Romans gave the place the name of Aquae Gratianae. The remains of their splendid baths are still there. The Y M C A has taken over the famous Casino of Aix-les-Bains, and the hotels of the town have been chartered for the use of American soldiers when on ON LEAVE 107 leave. In this rest area the "Y" has a staff of fifty- two Secretaries, half of them women. When the war fell upon France the Casino lost its patronage. - No gambling has been permitted in France since the first days of the war. At a cost of several hundred thousand francs the Y M C A has taken over this marvelous building. What was once a gambling hall and a place of luxury has become a place of repair for the armies of America. On the walls may be seen such signs as : "If you want a New Testament ask for it." "Ask the 'Y' Secretary for the new swear words." "Can the cussing." "Communion service Sunday morning at 10 o'clock." "Excursion on the lake this afternoon at 2 o'clock. Tickets at the desk." "The train for Mont Revard leaves at 1 o'clock. Mr. Smith will lead the party." In what was once the Royal Bar a prayer service is held every morning at nine o'clock. The "Grand Circle," a most attractive theater, which seats com- fortably a thousand people, is the "Y" play-house for the men on leave. It was there that Mr. E. H. Sothern, as a Y M C A Secretary, gave his exhibitions of Shakespeare, and there also that the John Craig Company of Boston produced their exquisite shows for the amusement of our men. The letters of the boys themselves reflect the value of this splendid service. io8 PORT TO LISTENING POST "France, February 21, 1918. Your letter of the 29th of December received ten days ago, but had no chance to answer it till now, as I have been in the trenches for quite a long time. At the present time I am on pass at one of the most beautiful resorts in France. The people are very kind to us, and will do anything for us, if they think they can please us by it. I was in the first bunch to land here. They took movies of us, pictures for the papers and magazines. Maybe we weren't an awful sight, mud from head to foot, but that made us look more realistic. I tell you Sherman was right; war is h , but we'll make the Boche think it's worse than that when we get through with them. When we first went into the line the Boche were very careless, they would stick their heads out of the trenches; but now they know the Americans are there, and they don't dare show them- selves if they value their life. There have been times when I couldn't have sold my life for two cents. Just imagine how you would feel if you were lying in the bottom of a muddy trench with shrapnel bursting around you and covering you up with dirt. It would make you homesick, wouldn't it ? That is an everyday occurrence. The Y M C A people are right on the job here. When we landed, the train had hardly stopped before they were there giving us chocolate. You should see their building, most magnificent place I ever saw — hardwood floors, enormous mirrors, huge marble pil- lars, billiard tables, theater, moving picture, beautiful reading and writing rooms — it certainly is grand. Be- fore the Y M C A took it over it was used by million- aires. Just imagine staying at the same hotel J. P. Morgan stayed at — some class ! Mostly every day we climb the mountains some ON LEAVE 109 5,000 feet high, from which can be seen the whole of the Alps. It certainly is grand. I have a beautiful room with a fine bed, electric lights, much better than pumping water out of a dugout and going to sleep in a bunk made of chicken wire, but this life is the most healthy of all." "March 24, 1918. Until my trip to Aix I must confess I lacked confi- dence in the Y M C A, and I used to teach in ours back in the States. At Aix my confidence was com- pletely restored and I shall never do any knocking again. I shall have to bend my energies and aspira- tions along that line to something that really needs reform. Perhaps I can find something. Scarcely a day goes by that we do not go over the trip to Aix again. You may be sure that we miss you all ; indeed the meeting of such charming people was just what we needed, for it gave us a sort of mental renovation. You surely are doing your bit in a splendid way." "April 2, 1918. The Y M C A and its representatives, both men and women, are doing wonderful work over here and they have huts and workers in every camp and sector of the U. S. Army. The retinue of workers here at Aix les Bains is too wonderful to describe. Never since I left home, the first of May, have I encountered such welcome and hospitality. They try to make you forget all your troubles and enjoy yourself in a very jolly and fitting manner and what is more, they actu- ally do. If the mothers back home could see the moral effect produced by these people on their sons, I am sure that a great burden and a lot of worry would be lifted from them." "April 2, 1918. The Y M C A is the one smile of our life here. They are at the ports, concentration camps, in the no PORT TO LISTENING POST cities, on the lines of communication, and go direct to the trenches. They have an utter disregard of their own safety, saying, 'Where you go, we go/ Two young YMCA ladies have been knocked off this week, and they only arrived in February. They are everywhere with a word of cheer, encouragement, reading, and the ever-famous canteen. Then we arrive 'on permission' and find them in possession of the big Casino at Aix les Bains, with all sorts of amusements at a cost of $1,000,000 a year — well spent; for thousands of fellows will come here." "April 5, 1918. I would be delighted if you could tell mother just how we looked and seemed to be feeling from our toes up. Tell her of the smiles that the soldiers are wearing, how we spend our vacation on leave and all the good things that the 'Y' does for us in the Savoy district. I will say that it does everything that a good friend or brother or sister could do for one on a visit. The Savoy district is charming and it has a most wonderful history. It inspires one to higher ideals and gives one a chance to think why we are fighting for justice and that we never will give up the fight till German vain ideas are crushed and she adopts the modern idea of government as it has been set forth by the people of the world. Give Mother and all a good excuse why I don't write more often, or why they don't get big fat let- ters. I will say, it's a strenuous life that we are living and after the duties of the day are finished, a letter is out of the question." When the soldiers arrive, they are welcomed at the station, and when they leave they are escorted to the ON LEAVE in train. The day we were there 200 of them marched through the streets from the Casino to the depot, sing- ing their cheery songs, only to find that the train was three hours late. The officer in charge gave the boys leave to go where they liked. When the time came to round them up again all but seven of the 200 were found in the Casino. They had returned to the Y M C A head- quarters, drawn by the subtle attraction of the staff and the service. The days "on leave" are planned for the boys by the men and women of the "Y." Boat trips upon the lake, fishing parties in the hills, walks and picnics, are planned for every day of their stay. The crowning trip, however, is the ride up the cogwheel railway to the top of Mont Revard. The day we went up with the boys will never be forgotten. The snow had fallen a few days before and four to six feet of snow lay upon the mountains. For two days the train had been unable to run and this was the first trip after the tracks had been cleared. The President of the railroad accompanied us. The sun was shining as on a summer day and no breath of wind stirred. It was one of the most perfect of days. When we reached the station the guide said it was impossible to reach the tower on the summit; the snow he said was too deep. "Nothing is im- possible," said one of the women Secretaries, and started out with the remark, "111 lead the way." And she did lead the way and in ten minutes a beaten path was made to the summit of the mountain. A French ii2 PORT TO LISTENING POST photographer took moving pictures of the company as they made their way over the trail, and took more pictures of the improvised snowball battle on the sum- mit. These pictures have since been seen in the mov- ing picture theaters of America, but they do not tell that the trip was planned and made possible by the men and women of the Y M C A. We sat in the snow in the soft glow of sunshine almost like summer and looked out over the precipice to the range of mountains beyond us. We were look- ing east and one of the number began to say: "It is good to see the old world, and travel up and down." And then, at the urgent request of those who knew the familiar words, with his back to the precipice, his face toward Mont Blanc, with a great group of Ameri- can soldiers and French civilians in front of him, Senator Leroy Percy of Mississippi quoted with one significant alteration, the verses which are perhaps the best which Henry Van Dyke has written, and which the soldiers in the American camps in France love to hear: "Oh, it's home again, and home again, America for me! My heart is turning home again to God's countrie, To the land of youth and freedom, beyond the ocean bars, Where the air is full of sunshine and the flag is full of stars. It is good to see the old world, and travel up and down Among the famous countries and the cities of renown, ON LEAVE 113 To admire the crumbly castles, and the monuments and kings ; But soon or late you have enough of antiquated things. Oh, London is a man's town, there's power in the air ; And Paris is a woman's town, with flowers in her hair ; And it's sweet to loaf in Venice, and it's great to study Rome; But when it comes to living, there is no place like home. I like the Alpine fir-woods in green battalions drilled ; I like the gardens of Versailles with flashing fountains filled; But oh to take your hand, my dear, and ramble for a day In the friendly Western woodland where nature has her way! Oh! Europe is a fine place, yet something seems to lack, The past is too much with her, and the people looking back; But life is in the present, and the future must be free; We love our land for what she is and what she is to be. So it's home again, and home again, America for me! My heart is turning home again to God's countrie, To that blessed land of Room Enough, beyond the ocean bars, Where the air is full of sunshine and the flag is full of stars." No wonder the men are in love with Aix, and no wonder they sing the praises of the "Y." It is the "Y" working with the American Army that makes Aix and similar leave resorts possible. CHAPTER X THE CHURCH IN ARMS The boys of the 28th had just come back from their first real fight. Not all of them had come back. Some were lying out in the conquered territory and some had been hurried off to places of repair in ad- vanced hospital units. Those who did return, returned victorious over mud and fire and foe. The Chaplain was standing near one of the shelters resting a moment from his now multiplied duties, and thinking of the work of tomorrow — Sunday — when the regiment would gather around him for the first time after their baptism of fire together. One of the men, seeing him apparently unoccu- pied, stepped up and saluting him said, "Are you thinking what you will preach about tomorrow, sir?" The Chaplain had already selected his text and his subject, but the opportunity was too good to lose and if necessary, he could change both text and theme, so he said, "Yes, I was just wondering what the boys would like to hear, and I am not sure what I ought to preach." The lad's face lighted up. "I'll tell you what to preach about," he said. "I think it's the last verse in the Gospel of Matthew, 'Lo, I am with you always.' ' Then, after a pause, he continued, "I have known those words ever since I was a boy, but I never knew what they meant until these last few 114 THE CHURCH IN ARMS 115 days. There were minutes when I never expected to come out alive, and the words kept coming back into my mind, and I knew I was not alone. After that, it didn't matter what happened." It is the mission of the Church of Christ to bear witness to the fact con- tained in the soldier's text, "Go . . . and lo, I am with you always." Whatever failure the American Church must con- fess regarding the fulfillment of her duty to the non- Christian peoples at home and abroad, certainly she is awake and alert to the obligation of service in rela- tion to the Great War. Neglectful of the needs of the Army and of the Navy in peace times, suddenly over night the Church has become partaker of the quicken- ing which now stirs the nation from sea to sea. The young men who manned her Sunday schools, her music, her organized life, slipped from their places and went forth to battle. They went forward, with thousands who had forsaken or neglected the Church, and over whom the Church seemed to exert no in- fluence. Yesterday they were unshepherded and lived their lives apart from the Church; today they are conscious of the fact that in the prayers offered in chapel and in cathedral they too have a share. The spirit of humility has fallen like a benediction upon the Church. Office bearers and long-time mem- bers of the Church have suddenly been surprised into the position of second place. The young men, who caused them anxious and prayerful concern, have taken the scepter out of their hands and moved up through the spirit of service and of sacrifice into the n6 PORT TO LISTENING POST first ranks. It is this fact that the Church has had to face. She is seeing her best and bravest young men go forth ready to die, for the children, the women, and old rejected men. It is the better, giving itself for the worse, and in the heart of the Church a new love and a new consecration have been born out of the very spirit of the Cross. In every church hangs a service flag filled with stars, and the boys in France and upon the sea and in the American cantonments know that they are loved and remembered and prayed for every day in the old home church. The cause for which they fight — what is it, but the cause of the Church itself ? The crusades of old were weak and worldly movements compared with this twentieth-century crusade. When I was in France, the French papers reported with evident satisfaction the words of Elihu Root in which he introduced the Archbishop of York to the people of America: "This is not a war for Servia, for Alsace-Lorraine, for Poland, not even for Belgium," he said. "It is a struggle for the overthrow or the maintenance of all the progress that the civilization of a century has made toward Christianity. It is a war to determine whether the world shall go back under the dominion of the power of darkness, back out of the light, back again to the days of despair and ignorance and slav- ery, or whether the good God who is just and com- passionate may still smile on a world where He is worshiped in spirit and in truth." In this war, the Church must follow the flag. Christianity must be militant. The Church is not THE CHURCH IN ARMS 117 set for self-defense, but for the defense of the weak against the strong, and to keep the torch of truth aflame in dark and desolate days. The Church follows the flag in the person of the Chaplain. He is the official representative of the Church, and is part of the army organization. There is no group of men in the Army which has carried more responsibility and faced more difficulties than the chaplains. They have been tempted to turn their attention to anything and everything, and to make their primary duties secondary. They have acted as school teachers, librarians and athletic directors. They have been hidden away for days at a time censoring mail. They have served in the post ex- change and on court materials, and have featured mov- ing-picture entertainments. Their parish has doubled and yet they have been given no additional assistance and little equipment. They formerly served a regi- ment of 1,000 men, and they now continue to serve a regiment after it has been increased to 3,700. Through the efforts and interests of the Church, and the sym- pathetic cooperation of the Army, the intention now is to have one chaplain for every 1,200 men. Notwithstanding the rapid increase in the number of chaplains, the whole subject is full of perplexity. The chaplains are appointed as representatives of the denominations, in proportion to their numerical strength, and consequently are without organization or unified programme. To meet the needs of the situation a chaplain staff has been appointed consist- ing of three Protestants and two Catholics, with n8 PORT TO LISTENING POST Bishop Brent as Chairman. This committee will endeavor to relate and organize the chaplain force and to foster a spirit of unity and purpose among the official representatives of the Church in the Army. The splendid service of obscure chaplains will mul- tiply the war literature of the world and feed the faith of the church for centuries. At Passchendaele a Canadian officer said, "Without the Chaplain it would be impossible to keep the morale of the men." When- ever there is need and danger, there you find the padre of the camp. "Our Chaplain," says a private of the First Royal Irish Rifles, "is always in the trenches with the regiment. He has faced death forty times since we came out. I have seen him in the front trenches hearing confessions, with bullets in showers like hailstones pasing overhead. That is what makes soldiers fight well and die calm. When they have loads off their consciences, their minds are easy, and they don't fear death." Writing from the battle-field in France in the early days of the war, a British soldier gives a revealing picture of the chaplain's opportunity: "A padre turned up yesterday, and at night (it was not safe to begin earlier) we held a service which a great number of our men attended, and afterwards there was a large attendance at Holy Communion. It was a strange sight. It was in a wood, in black dark- ness save for two candles on a packing-case which served as an altar ; the chalice was a tin mug ; the soldiers, grimed with battle, each with his rifle, knelt in a circle round the light. There must have been such scenes in very early Christian days." THE CHURCH IN ARMS 119 One Saturday night, I found myself among the ruins of a French town, on the Lorraine front. The town had been shot to pieces in the early days of the war, and the day I arrived a shell had exploded in what formerly was the main street of the village, kill- ing five mules and wounding a soldier who was on guard. From this town the trench system began and every now and then the sky was lighted up with star shells. I went into the cellar where the Y M C A had its headquarters and where in the pale flickering candle-light, the boys obtained tobacco, chocolate, matches, and a little fellowship. I pushed on through the dark passage-way into the rear cellar. A man was sitting alone, looking into the flame of the little wood fire which was the only light in that dark and dismal dwelling. As I entered he looked up, and the fire lighted both our faces. "Great Scott," he said, "how did you get out here?" I had known him in other days and had seen him when comfort and repu- tation were his, but I had never seen him so satisfied nor so sure of his calling, as he was under the sound of American guns in France. "This is the real thing," he said, and carried me away to show me the im- provised chapel where, in the morning, he and his men would meet God face to face. In France, the churches of America function not only through the chaplains, but through the Y M C A. When asked as to the relation of the "Y" to the Church, Gipsy Smith said, "A communication trench." That explanation, however, is both inade- quate and misleading for the "Y" and the Church are i2o PORT TO LISTENING POST and ought to be one. They are one in their personnel and one in their purpose. Denominations have laid aside their differences and have concentrated upon the task of helping our men and they find the "Y" the channel through which that service can be rendered most efficiently. Never before in history could Christians more truly sing, "We are not divided, All one body we." The Red Triangle is the sign not only of the Y M C A, but of the churches of America, and clergy- men from all denominations, bishops and rectors, pastors and professors, presidents and preachers, elders and deacons, Sunday school teachers and Y M C A Secretaries, all in uniform, and all without rank distinction, are serving in the huts across the sea. The "Y" took E. C. Carter from India, F. B. Shipp from America, and D. A. Davis from Turkey, and placed in their hands this sacred trust. Trained to think in international terms, they have won the con- fidence of the American and Allied Armies, and of their leadership General Pershing has expressed his warmest approval. To every man responsible for the religious work in the camp, Dr. Robert Freeman, the eloquent poet- preacher of California and head of the Religious Work Department, has issued the following instructions: "The big worth of the Y M C A lies in the Secre- Executive Secretaries Overseas- E. C. Carter and F. B. Shipp THE CHURCH IN ARMS 121 tary himself. His service, his thoughtfulness, his un- selfishness, far outweigh the supplies of the canteen or the conveniences of the hut. There is no substitute for his simple brotherly kindness, nor sales, nor shows, nor sermons. 'It is the mightiest kind of preaching. Nevertheless, we want to make sales and give shows and deliver sermons, and we need far-sighted planning that these may accomplish the greatest measure of good. We know that religion is not in organization, but we know, too, that the reach of religion can be extended and its grip strengthened by methods of or- ganization. Therefore, we propose the following concrete methods born of the experience of a number of our fellow-workers : I. Religious Services There shall be three regular services a week in each hut. 1. Sunday morning: Whenever possible have the Chaplain conduct a service. A goodly percentage of our soldiers are of the Roman Catholic faith, and it is desirable that we take pains to plan for such reli- gious exercises as are familiar to them. If the Chap- lain be a Roman Catholic, hold also a Protestant service, at least a Bible class. 2. Sunday evening: Have a 'sing' using wholly, or at least leading up to some favorite hymns, and being followed as frequently as possible with an address. Exchange between hut Secretaries will provide a good many speakers; in some sections addresses by army medical officers, promoting the clean life, fit in, too. 3. Midzveek service: Plan a regular service of a devotional character for Wednesday or Thursday eve- nings, whichever suits best. Your own personal read- 122 PORT TO LISTENING POST ing will doubtless give you a few minutes' remarks, if you do not have another speaker; the singing will cheer the men up; and a prayer, whether read or impromptu, will wash the souls of your men. II. Bible Classes 1. Have a Bible class in every company, squadron, and battery, led by one of the men, and meeting on week nights. That man may be found generally through the top sergeant. Later, when you are plenti- fully supplied with gospels, you could make a man- to-man visitation of your soldier family, offering a gospel to every man who wanted it without any urging on your part; at the same time telling him that if, when he had finished, he desired the whole Testament, he should report to you. This would offer you your best chance for personal work and for enlistments for your Bible classes. 2. Hold a normal class of all your leaders, instruct- ing them on the next lesson. Nine o'clock Sunday morning is a good time. 3. Your Sunday morning Protestant service might very well take the form of a talk by you on the lesson studied the preceding week. The men will be in- terested and full of questions. Competition between companies in the matter of attendance might be fostered. III. Discussion Groups In some of our huts, Sunday afternoon discussion groups using some such text-book as "The Social Prin- ciples of Jesus," by Rauschenbusch, are making a go. IV. Free Literature There ought to be always in sight some pamphlets THE CHURCH IN ARMS 123 and booklets under a sign: 'Help yourself/ Many of these will disappear when you are not looking. They may be on a counter or in a rack. I know we have not much of this thus far, but perhaps 'Friend or Enemy' has reached you, and other such. If not, I want you to know what we plan as soon as the material is in hand. Now this seems like a great deal, I know, for you feel all the time that you are swamped with little material tasks that take all your time and leave you wearied and discouraged. For that very reason, if for no other, you must make such plans as the above. Religious instruction will find no place unless you plan for it. Let us therefore, unostentatiously but constantly and systematically seek to turn men's thoughts to the highest things." More clergymen than trained Y M C A Secre- taries are serving in France today. They have gone forth from churches, theological seminaries, and col- leges, to serve the Association, and are the pledge of the unity and spirit which exists in the American churches. The Church has seized this opportunity for service, and has contributed through the channel of the Y M C A clergymen, laymen, money, and leader- ship, in hitherto undreamed-of proportions. In this war the entire Church is in arms. After a Sunday evening service, where the boys to the number of 500 were gathered, a Jewish lad from Pittsburgh put his arm over the preacher's shoulder and said, "Tell the Y. M. H. A. back home to give all its money to the Y M C A, for it has made me feel at home here, and it has no respect for any religion." 124 PORT TO LISTENING POST We understand the fine sentiment behind his words. The Y M C A had respected his faith, and through the doors of the hut he had entered into the atmosphere of home. Church union is in France an accomplished fact. Frequently the Communion is served by ministers of all denominations assisting. In the service on Sunday and week-night, Protestant, Catholic, and Hebrew sit upon the same benches. On Good Friday a priest of the Roman Catholic faith, together with a Baptist clergyman, explained the "Stations of the Cross." In one case a Y M C A clergyman acted as interpreter at the last sacrament administered by a French priest to a dying American soldier. We have long prayed for unity. Let us pause for a moment to give thanks. It takes virile and versatile men to do front line work in France, and it is surprising how many clergy- men are promoted to that service. When our first division moved from the eastern front into the line of battle to help stem the German advance, the entire service of the Y M C A had to be transplanted. Fourteen trucks, loaded in the night with tents, equipment, and canteen supplies, moved out along the road at daybreak. Two young clergy- men from Western Pennsylvania headed the party, and when night fell, those fourteen trucks drew up at the destination where the troops were disembarking near the French front, and were greeted by the familiar and hearty welcome. "Here comes the old 'Y.' " That is part of the reward that comes from following the flag. THE CHURCH IN ARMS 125 A well-known clergyman from the West, who was known among the boys as "Angel-Face" because of his pleasing ways and cheery smile, was assigned to manual labor at a base camp. His first task was road- making. He drove a truck loaded with broken stone from the quarry near by, to the highway that needed some quick repair work. For some days he labored and his hands became bruised and calloused. His second task was building a hut and putting the canteen in shape for efficient service. One morning he was commissioned to Paris for supplies, and while there overheard three American chauffeurs who were stand- ing near the entrance at headquarters, talking. One of them said, "It makes me sick to see these d d preachers loafing around here doing nothing." "Angel- Face" went on into the building to cool off, but in- stead of becoming cooler he got hotter, and coming to where the men were still talking, he faced his man. "I heard what you said just now about those d d preachers and I want you to understand that I'm one of them. Look at my hands. They are hard as iron, and unless you take back your dirty words, I'll knock you down." The man hedged and hesitated, but "Angel Face's" iron fist was near his head, and another critic of the clergy was silenced. "I didn't mean any- thing, Mister," said the chauffeur. "Well, why don't you say what you mean?" said "Angel Face" and walked away. Down near the front he is no longer called "Angel Face"; his pals call him "Gyp the Blood." Two of our soldier boys passing through Paris were 126 PORT TO LISTENING POST seeing the city. The ever-alert "guide" had discovered them and had engaged himself to show the soldiers the sights of Paris. At an opportune moment a clergy- man wearing the Y M C A uniform passed and took in the situation at a glance. "Where are you taking the boys?" he quietly asked the guide. "None of your business," came the retort. "Well, we'll see if it's not my business," said the Clerical Secretary. "I have a free hour now and I'll go along." That proposition did not suit the "guide," for he knew the insignia of the Red Triangle. He grew ugly and closed in to fight, but before he knew what had happened he found him- self lying on his back. When he arose he took to his heels and disappeared round the corner. The next day those two boys visited their new-found friend at headquarters, and left with him a little package. When the clergyman opened it he found a little American flag with a note thanking him, not for protection — they could take care of themselves — but for the cour- age and the reality of his friendship. There is scarcely a town in America that has not released one or more of its pastors for war work serv- ice under the direction of the Y M C A. Half the force that mans the British huts comes from the ranks of the clergy, and American churches will make will- ing sacrifices that the Army and the Navy may be ministered to in all good things. From city and rural churches, from Eastern states and from needy West- ern communities, men trained for spiritual ministry are serving in prominent and obscure places overseas. Concerning the service of one of these men, whom the THE CHURCH IN ARMS 127 Church at home has sent to the men in France, Ralph W. Harbison of the War Work Council, who accom- panied me to France, writes : "After a supper of chocolate, war bread, and canned beef, the six of us Secretaries were ordered to the cellar of the *Y,' together with fifty soldiers who hap- pened to be in the old shell-torn building, as the Boche were beginning again to shell the town. We took candles, a big basket full of canteen supplies to last us in case we should have to be dug out later, overcoats, and blankets. We fitted our gas masks on, to be sure they were working well, and then settled down, or tried to, in the dungeon, and here I saw the first real service of the chief 'Y' man, the Rev. George Clarke, pastor of the Presbyterian Church at La Grange, Oregon — a real man among men, who had not left his post for fourteen days. He entered the cave last and noticing that the soldiers were very quiet and perhaps a bit anxious, he said cheerily, 'Well, boys, let's sing "The Battle Hymn of the Republic," ' and then he read them some good poems and talked to them. We expected to have to stay all night but in an hour a sentry called 'all out' and out we gladly went. The rest of the evening we spent upstairs in one of the reasonably whole rooms with piano and songs and stories and the ever-present and wonderful canteen. An ex-New York motorcycle policeman, who holds the world's hurdle record, led the singing and told a funny story of his arrest of three Brooklyn boys on Brooklyn Bridge for some minor offense. The three boys mentioned were right there in the group and laughingly confirmed it all." One wonders whether the soldier or the minister, or the Church at home that makes such ministry possible, 128 PORT TO LISTENING POST receives the greatest blessing. Certainly the men who thus serve will, when the war is ended, be trained and prepared for a service which the new world will sorely need. Much is being written today about the Church of the future. Theorists are at work, denouncing former creeds by which men lived and died and formulating new creeds for tomorrow. The creed of tomorrow will not be made by what Kipling calls "The Per- severance Doubters and the Present Comfort Shirks." It is being fashioned now in the fire and it is being lived by those who find themselves in at the battle front. The Civil War made for division in theology, and for denominational Christianity. This war has already made for religious reality and Christian unity. The Spirit of God is moving on the face of humanity and where the Spirit of God is, there are liberty, equality, and fraternity. I found no tendency on the part of the men of the American Army in France to criticize the Church. In civilian and military life, the door of opportunity stands open and if the Church fails now to enter and possess her heritage, she will have missed the greatest opportunity in history. Those who have heard in Paris the shriek of the siren in the night, telling them that the death-dealing bombs of the enemy are overhead, will never forget that weird sound. It sends soldiers and sailors, officers and men, women and children, in utter helplessness in search of safety. It stops trains and railways, and the doors of hotels and shops are closed, while silence THE CHURCH IN ARMS 129 broken by the explosion of bombs reigns over the city. An hour, two hours, three hours, go by, and then in the streets one hears the glad clarion notes of the recall. The trumpeter with the silver trumpet, borne through the streets in automobile or in fire engine, sounds those silver notes that thrill with the triumph of victory, and from their shelters men and women come forth to breathe the breath of full life again. The Church for years past has listened to the call of the siren. Already another note is heard in the literature and legislation of the world. It is the note that sounds the recall. It is the trumpet of God calling men forth to full life to the celebration of the triumph of Truth, to the recognition of the supremacy of the spirit. CHAPTER XI SANS CAMOUFLAGE Camouflage is a war word. Yesterday it was un- known, today it is one of the commonest words in the world. It speaks of war. It suggests the kiss that betrays, the olive branch that is a sword, the treaty that is a scrap of paper. It transforms a bat- tery into a grove of trees, an ammunition dump into a field of grain, a moving train into a herd of cattle in the meadow. Camouflage enables things to be other than they seem. There is a tendency now to use the word in relation to religion. I suppose it can be so used. The word is just French for hypocrisy. It may be possible to relate the word to religion in times of peace, but it is increasingly difficult and dangerous to do so in a world at war. There is no camouflage about religion at the front. The one thing that has not succeeded with the men of the Army is a camouflaged religion. The Army demands reality. Soldiers and sailors abhor hypocrisy. They surrender to sincerity. One dark moonless night I drove out from the Y M C A headquarters in a Ford truck to the front line. The guns were speaking and the sky was lumi- nous with shell fire. We traveled along the registered highway over roads screened on both sides and over- head. We passed soldiers marching to the front, and 130 SANS CAMOUFLAGE I3I army trucks loaded with ammunition creeping slowly towards the battle-line. The road was rough from much wear and from frequent shell explosions and ran into the wooded hills of the Lorraine front, where the trees had been stripped by shrapnel and the hill- sides gutted with shell holes. One could count hun- dreds of shell holes to the acre. Leaving the highway, we followed a narrow trail through the hills where sentries stood beside abri- shelters until we had lost all reckoning as to direction and distance. The road ended in a "Y" dugout, where the soldiers who had just returned from the trenches were waiting the coming of canteen supplies. The men had been in the fire and had lost some of their pals in the barrage. Late in the night we walked further into the mystery of the hillside and discovered hidden in the trees a little rustic chapel, faith's abri-shelter, a shrine of the soul, where in that lonely and desolate land men dis- covered themselves in the light of the eternal. The boys with their own hands had built it out of the trees of the woods and there it stood — an expression of undying faith and of religion which always speaks the last word of life. The nearer one gets to the front line trenches the nearer one gets to God. "Writing in a tragic hour a solemn page of history, we resolved that it should be sincere and glorious." Thus wrote Cardinal Mercier in the dark days of Belgium's martyrdom. When men come face to face with things inscrutable they are not far from making the great discovery. God is not far I 3 2 PORT TO LISTENING POST off. Wherever there is helplessness, when men can- not by logic understand and explain, they "touch God's right hand in the darkness/' "Clouds and darkness are round about Him, righteousness and judgment are the habitation of His throne." When the temple is filled with smoke the prophet discovers God. It is the history of all the ages. At the end of the path, when human helpers fail, men discover God. It was in the forests of France that the faith of the Hugue- nots was born. It was on the mist-covered hills of Scotland that the Covenanters' creed was fashioned. It was in the fire of affliction that America was reborn, and out of the furnace of fire our men are climbing the great world altar stairs that slope through dark- ness up to God. The Serbian Ambassador to France told us that when the remnants of the Serbian Army were taken by the Allies across to the island of Corfu in the Adriatic, all of their priests had been lost or slain, and a peasant school teacher among them composed for them this prayer to represent the faith and unconquer- able spirit of the Serbian Army and people. "O, Lord God, our Father and our Creator, God of Justice, God of Truth, God of Pity, hear our prayer, the prayer of the whole Serbian people, crucified and agonized. From a country where we are strangers, where we wait with longing, our wives and our children, far, far, from our Serbian motherland, kneeling and with tears, we implore Thee, Lord. By the might of Thy hand stay up, Almighty SANS CAMOUFLAGE 133 Creator, the throne of our King, keep and guard and preserve the Serbian Army, the Serbian people, our little ones, and our youth who are in bondage and in distress. For them and for us, we pray Thee, graft in our hearts the spirit of wisdom and of faithfulness and of endurance, that we may bear ourselves like men, and, that even out of these untold wrongs and these bitter- est trials, we may still turn our hearts to Thee, our God. For Thou, O God, art the source of all power and might. Hearken then to our prayers ; hear the cry of our distress, and bring ere long our bark of life out of danger and to the haven of rest from suffering. And to Thee, be the glory throughout all ages now and forever more, Amen and Amen." Even if one has never seen the battle front, he knows that God has come nigh to men in the fighting line. He has read of it, even if he has not seen it. He has read of Private Peat's vision of Calvary as he lay out in the mist and the shadows among the dead and the dying. He has read of it in the poetry of Rupert Brooke, whose verses before the war awoke no real response, but whose war sonnets are winged with immortality. But at the battle front he is sure of it. One dark night in the Lorraine sector, after we had gone as far as we could towards the front, we came to a destroyed and ruined village. At the edge of the village the trench system began that led out to "No Man's Land." The village was in ruins. The little stone church had been totally destroyed. The 134 PORT TO LISTENING POST tombstones in the cemetery were shattered and muti- lated. While we were out in the trenches shells from German guns came shrieking over our heads and ex- ploded among the ruins behind us. American soldiers were quartered there in cellars and in what was left of the houses. Underground we found a little impro- vised chapel. The Chaplain lived there with his men and had gathered from the ruined church the symbols of worship which had escaped destruction. Nothing was perfect. Everything had been mutilated. Statues of Christ without arms or head were there. Mutilated images of the Virgin were there. Leading down from that cellar chapel was a cave in which twenty Ameri- can soldiers were sleeping. It was a sight never to be forgotten — the sleeping soldiers and the improvised chapel amid the ruin and desolation wrought by the Hun. In the danger and in the dark the men some- how felt that God was near. In the ruined buildings the Secretaries of the Y M C A carry on their ministry of help and hope, and there at night these same Secretaries with their packs upon their backs go through the communicat- ing trenches into the front line and out to the distant listening posts, serving the men. In one night one of these men going from place to place held ten serv- ices in the trenches, reading the gospel message by a flickering candle light, and speaking a word of faith and love. The evidence of religious response is found everywhere. On the night of Good Friday the men had gathered in one of the huts. It was behind the lines and the SANS CAMOUFLAGE 135 sound of the guns was constant. The Chaplains and the Y M C A men, the Commanding Officer of the camp and his staff, two or three Y M C A women, a French officer, a few French soldiers in blue, and two or three hundred of our American boys were ready to receive and welcome the religious message. That dark hut and the booming of the guns will always live in our memory. But most significant of all is the memory of the hush that fell upon the men as we read to them the story of the crucifixion, of the greatest tragedy in human history, where faith and love were crowned. The lesson required no comment. Along the river Marne, during a rest interval when orders had been received that the camp was to be moved and then countermanded, the Y M C A Secre- tary, who was a lay-evangelist, received permission from the Colonel and from the Catholic Chaplain to conduct in the camp a series of week-night religious services. These services were continued for ten nights with unabated interest, and before they closed sixty men had openly confessed Christ, and sixteen had been baptized in the river Marne by the Chaplain from a neighboring camp. In an Australian rest camp, at a time when several companies of soldiers were ordered back to the front, a large religious service was held, conducted by the Church of England Chaplain and a clergyman from one of the Australian churches. They talked to the men in the most serious and direct manner, using as their text the command given to Joshua when he was about to undertake his very dangerous campaign: 136 PORT TO LISTENING POST "Have I not commanded thee? Be strong and of good courage ; be not afraid, neither be thou dismayed : for the Lord thy God is with thee whithersoever thou goest." After the service the Holy Communion was admin- istered, and then the men went out, prepared for the order to advance. One may say that it is the sense of fear that leads men to serious thought. Perhaps. Yet these are not the men to charge with fear. It ill becomes us to make such a charge against the men who are going forth to make the supreme sacrifice. It is truer per- haps to say that the sense of mystery, the sense of human helplessness, the creation of a new scale of values, has much to do with it. Old things have passed away. The things that once held the heart — money, pleasure, ambition — have vanished away, and the things that abide — faith, hope, and love — these remain. Perhaps it is true that the soldier is superstitious. He sees crosses and statues unharmed in the midst of desolation, and he thinks there must be a reason. Certain it is that the sacraments have a strange fasci- nation for the men and have obtained new significance out on the battle front. It is true also that the horror of the great wickedness that has broken out in the world has challenged the thought of the Army. Be- hind the military movements some awful thing has motived men. War is full of agonizing brutality. It is easy for folks in the safe security of their homes five thousand miles from the firing line to glorify SANS CAMOUFLAGE 137 war. The soldier who faces the fire, faces neither glamor nor glory. He faces mud and noise, cruelty and confusion. He faces the reversal of Christianity. He faces the deceitfulness and wickedness of men. He comes again to believe in hell because he believes in justice, and he understands now as never before that where there is iniquity and moral evil there can be no peace. He sees a place for the words of Jesus, "Ye serpents, ye generation of vipers, how can ye escape the damnation of hell ?" A recent writer, who ten years ago was a pro- nounced evolutionist in the realm of religion, whose vocabulary was freighted with words that spoke of development, immaturity, progress, imperfection, re- cently said: "Sin is not immaturity. There is a difference be- tween a green apple and a worm-eaten apple. Growth will ripen the green apple, but growth will only add to the size and the appetite of the worm. There is a difference between the crudities and carelessness and mischiefs of a boy and the criminality of a Bill Sykes or an Iago. Sin is not good in the making. A process of making has been going on in Germany for the last half century, and never will it restore the Ger- many of Kant and Hegel, of Goethe and Schiller, of Luther and Melanchthon. Sin is positive, aggressive, destructive, and it is to be confronted with weapons that destroy and with a wrath resolute to destroy." The only fact that seems to satisfy is the fact of Christ. These men have no theological theory, but in Christ they see evil conquered and purity upon the cross triumphant. In Him they see all that is lovely 138 PORT TO LISTENING POST and purest in human life taken by wicked hands and put to death in the most cruel fashion that the world has ever seen. And they have seen him dying, agoniz- ing, yet unafraid, unconquered and unconquerable. During the South African war a Boer marksman shot an Irish soldier near the Tugela river. The South African immediately set about to strip the soldier of his clothes. He took off his overcoat, his belt, and his shirt, and then saw, lying next the heart that was still, a cross. He stood for awhile and gazed at it. The great gulf of war yawned between him and that Irish Catholic. It was only for a moment, but that yawning chasm was bridged. He covered the naked body with the overcoat that he had intended to take, and walked away. He was in the presence of reality and was bound by a subtle sympathy that he could not explain. These are days when Christ comes into his own. The great note in the teaching of the Church in the past was safety. Personal safety was the goal of much religious effort. It is a true note in the teaching of Christianity. No man can be of service until he, himself, has his feet on the rock, and personal salva- tion is written deep into the teaching of Jesus. It is embedded in the hymnology of the ages. "Jesus, Lover of My Soul," "Rock of Ages, Cleft for Me," "Nearer, My God, to Thee," strike true and tender chords. The General who said, "I need no preparation for retreat, I will advance," was beaten. Security belongs to things fundamental, but we may think too much of security. We may allow our religion to find a per- SANS CAMOUFLAGE 139 sonal rather than a social goal. These men in the Army are not drawn by a gospel of security. They have thrown security to the wind. They are facing the fire and are prepared for danger and death. Personal safety has no charm. The Croix de Guerre comes only when safety and security are abandoned. The great word is service. Negative things have passed away and behold, things have become positive. The restrictions of home and church and comrades have disappeared and men live an independent life. Religion is no longer a matter of Sunday observance, and church-going, and abstinence from card-playing. All the frills and fashions of conventional religion have gone, and the things of the spirit have become of themselves the real and determining things of life. The spirit of Pharisaism, all too intimately related to conventional religion, is abhorred and the things men do determine character. Thus it is that the su- preme words of the Gospel become charged with new meaning. Calvary, Gethsemane, and the Cross are full of revealing truth and interpretative of the agony of the battle-ground. Humanity for its own sake be- comes sacred, and brotherhood is no longer a dream, but a benediction. The motto on the picture of Joan of Arc that hangs in her own little church at Dom- remy, near where many American soldiers are billeted, "Vitam pro fide dedit" is the motto of modern mili- tant Christianity. We too are called upon to give our lives for our faith. I stood one day in the city of Verdun, that silent city of the dead, with its shattered walls and broken 140 PORT TO LISTENING POST buildings, where more of humanity sleeps beneath its ruins than has been in its streets since the siege ; that city of 20,000 inhabitants, which burned for two weeks, but which defied the might of the Crown Prince and buried him in obscurity. We wandered through its desolate and silent streets, with shrapnel at our feet, the shops showing signs of having been vacated suddenly, the trees shattered and torn by shells. Instinctively we wandered into the cathedral, that had stood on that same spot since the eleventh century. Everything was gone; the roof had been torn open, the windows shattered, the pillars broken by shell and bomb. It was a scene of desolation and of disaster. Its priests had disappeared, and only a soldier in blue kept sentry duty over the sacred ruins. The day before a shell had come crashing through what was left of the roof and had embedded itself in the marble floor. Everything was confusion and deso- lation, and yet one thing remained. The high altar was untouched. The high altar, resting on four spiral porphyry pillars, was still unscathed. One does not need to be superstitious to see in that altar of sacrifice, standing in the midst of ruin and desolation unharmed and untouched, a symbol of faith, of imperishable reality, of the things that abide. Amid the ruin, devastation, and destruction, the shat- tering of purposes and plans, the thing that cannot be shaken remains.