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"Bro. Jonathan" Series of Fruit Books 
 
 Copyrighted and published exclusively by The Fruit-Grower 
 Company, Saint Joseph, Missouri. 
 
 This is a series of booklets published by The Fruit-Grower 
 
 Co., St. Joseph, Mo., on different phases of fruit culture, 
 
 which are intended to help those engaged in the pursuit of 
 
 horticulture. All books are illustrated. 
 
 No. 1 — "Propagating Trees and Plants." — Describes the pro- 
 cess of budding, grafting, layering, etc. It is by Prof. W. 
 L. Howard of the University of Missouri, with protographs 
 by E. H. Favor, of the same institution. 
 
 No. 2 — "A Treatise on Spraying." — By Prof. J. M. Stedman, 
 entomologist of the Missouri Experiment Station. Many of 
 the most destructive insects are shown, with full directions 
 for combating them. 
 
 No. 3 — "How to Grow Strawberries." — By Dr. J. C. Whitten, 
 professor of horticulture of the University of Missouri. It 
 treats of growing Strawberries as a commercial crop -or for 
 home use. 
 
 No. 4 — "The Home Garden." — By Prof. Howard and Mr. 
 Favor. It tells how to make hotbeds, coldframes, etc.; how 
 to handle them to the best advantage. The more common 
 garden vegetables are discussed, together with some which 
 are too often neglected. 
 
 No. 6 — "Packing and Marketing Fruits." — By Prof. F. A.. 
 Waugh, of Massachusetts Agricultural College. This book 
 tells about the correct times for picking different fruits, 
 describes different packages used in which to market them. 
 
 No. 6 — "A Book About Bush Fruits." — By Prof. A. T. Erw<n 
 of Iowa Agricultural College. Treats of blackberries, rasp- 
 berries, etc., with methods of culture; also gives recipes 
 for canning and preserving. 
 
 No. 7 — "Growing Grapes." — By E. H. Riehl. Alton, 111. Mr. 
 Riehl is a successful commercial grower, and discusses va- 
 rieties, modes of training, etc. 
 
 No. 8 — "Hints on Pruning."— By Dr. J. C. Whitten. The 
 pruning of different kinds of fruit trees and plants Is dis- 
 cussed, with reasons for the methods recommended. 
 
 No. 9 — "Apple Culture, with a Chapter on Pears." — By Dr. J. 
 C. Whitten. This is intended to be a booklet for the prac- 
 tical man who wants to know how to get some good from 
 his orchard. 
 
 No. 10 — "Success With Stone Fruits."— By Prof. F. A. Waugh 
 The different stone fruits are treated, with lists of best 
 varieties of each. Methods of planting, pruning, etc., are 
 discussed for each class. 
 
 These Booklets Will Be Sent Postpaid for 
 
 25c E&.ch or Five for One Dollawr 
 
GROWING 
 GRAPES 
 
 Vy Zdh>in Hi Kiehl 
 
 President of the Alton (111.) Horticultural Society; 
 Manager Illinois State Experiment Station No. 8 
 
 PUBLISHED BY THE FRUIT-GROWER COMPAFT 
 1906 SAINT JOSEPH, MISSOURI 1906 
 
LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
 Two CoDies Received 
 
 MAY d i906 
 
 Copvririfil Entry 
 
 
 
I 
 
 <s 
 
 Brother Jonathan 
 Series 
 
 Booklet No. 7. 
 
FRUrr-GROAVER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 
 
 INTRODUCTORY. 
 
 In the grape we have the ideal fruit for the masses. 
 The apple is no doubt of more value commercially, 
 but when we consider that the grape may be grown 
 in thousands of homes where the apple cannot, we 
 must regard the grape as the people's fruit. No 
 matter how small the yard may be, whether in city, 
 village or country, there is always room for a few 
 grape vines, for nowhere does this fruit flourish bet- 
 ter than when trained to dwellings, outbuildings or 
 over arbors. In the shape of arbors it frequently 
 furnishes shade which could not be had from trees, 
 there being no room for the latter. The grape is 
 one of the most delicious and wholesome fruits we 
 have; it represents a good many shades of color and 
 flavors, so that all persons may find among our long 
 list of varieties, some that are to their liking. 
 
 No other fruit will thrive in so great a variety of 
 soils as does the grape and varieties may be selected 
 that will succeed in any climate where any other 
 fruit can be grown. It is easily propagated, easily 
 grown, bears early, lives much longer than the aver- 
 age fruit plant or tree and gives us a far greater 
 amount of fruit annually, considering the space oc- 
 cupied, than any other fruit-bearing plant, tree or 
 vine. 
 
 This little book, which is based on practical ex- 
 perience, is offered mainly for the benefit of ama- 
 teurs, though it is to be hoped that all who read it 
 will find among its pages suggestions that will be 
 interesting and beneficial. 
 
GROWING GRAPES 
 
 SOIL AND LOCATION. 
 
 The grape is not particular as to soil, but gives 
 good results in soils that are rocky, sandy, heavy 
 clay, rich or poor, under conditions where 
 other fruits would fail. This, however, does not 
 mean that it is not important to select good soil for 
 the vineyard and keep it so. The grape vine is a 
 great feeder and responds freely and quickly when 
 the right fertility is provided. A clay loam will, per- 
 haps, give the best general results. While it is de- 
 sirable to have the soil very rich for best results, it 
 should be remembered that richness of soil has a 
 tendency to encourage fungi, to which this fruit is 
 especially subject. 
 
 The best location for a vineyard is well-drained 
 land, sloping to the east or south, the object of such 
 a slope being that the early morning sun quickly 
 dries off the dew, which greatly lessens the danger 
 of fungus injury. Steep hillsides are frequently used 
 for growing grapes, and good crops are grown where 
 nothing else could be profitably produced. In such 
 cases terraces are made, wide enough so that a one- 
 horse cultivator may be run on either side of the 
 rows. It should not be understood from these sug- 
 gestions that grapes can not be profitably grown on 
 level land or even on low bottom land, for such is 
 not the case. Grape vines thrive well on low and 
 level land, but when such land is used it is neces- 
 sary to spray promptly and continuously to prevent 
 the fruit from rotting before it becomes ripe. New 
 land from which timber has recently been cut should 
 be used whenever practicable, as then the very best 
 results may be expected. 
 
FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSKPH, MO. 
 
 PREPARATION OF THE SOIL. 
 
 In some parts of Europe it is considered essential 
 to dig trenches several teet wide and three feet deep, 
 and fill up the excavation with gravel at the bottom, 
 and the balance with rich prepared soil and thereon 
 set the grape vines. Some of our German immigrants 
 have practiced this method here and while the re- 
 sults were the very best, the work is too expensive 
 to be practicable. In selecting soil for the grape see 
 that it is as fertile naturally as practicable, with loca- 
 tion in mind, and grow for at least two years pre- 
 vious to setting the vines, a crop of clover or cow 
 peas, which crops should preferably be turned under 
 in the fall when fully matured. Or, if a crop of 
 clover may be had to plow under in June the soil 
 should be worked down and cow peas sown, to be 
 turned under in the fall. This will put so much 
 needed humus in the soil as to admit of very early 
 plowing in the spring. At this time the plow should 
 be run as deeply as possible and the soil worked 
 down fine and smooth. It should be remembered 
 that vines properly set and cared for will live and 
 give good results almost indefinitely, and too much 
 pains cannot be taken in preparing the land. The 
 soil should be especially rich at the time vines are 
 planted, with the object of giving the vines a vigor- 
 ous start and to hasten them to a bearing size. If 
 manure is available it should be applied liberally to 
 the land one or two years previous to the planting 
 of the vineyard. Cow peas and clover, while they 
 will not give the same amount of lasting plant food 
 to the soil, have the advantage of freeing the soil 
 partly of weeds, whereas manure, in most cases, con- 
 tains a good deal of seed, thus introducing an addi> 
 
GROWIXG GRAPES 
 
 tional supply of weeds that are hard to subdue, no 
 matter what crop is to be grown where hand labor 
 is to be employed. 
 
 It may be said here, however, that the grape, 
 under proper management, is one of the easiest 
 crops to till and keep clean of weeds that we raise 
 and the weed problem is therefore not a serious one, 
 yet worthy of some consideration. 
 
 SETTING THE VINES. 
 
 Well-grown one-year-old vines are best for start- 
 ing a vineyard; they will give better results, as a 
 rule, than two-year-old vines, even though the 
 latter are grown as they should be. The main ob- 
 jection to two-year vines, however, is that they fre- 
 quently represent transplanted vines two or three 
 years old, which, being unsold at the end of the sea- 
 son, are lined out in the nursery and carried over 
 to the next season. Such vines are stunted and 
 never give the best results. 
 
 The vines should be at hand at the time the soil 
 is prepared by being well stirred and made fine to 
 a considerable depth, which should be done at a 
 time when soil is moist, care being taken not to 
 work the ground when too wet. It is important to 
 get the vines out as early in spring as the soil can 
 be worked so it will crumble and break up nicely; 
 the surface should be made smooth with drag or 
 roller. 
 
 The distance to plant varies somewhat according 
 to circumstances; from 6 by 8 feet to 8 by 12 feet 
 When soil is very rich and varieties vigorous, they 
 should be set farther apart than otherwise and when 
 rows are set eight feet apart every fifth row should 
 be set farther to admit the manure wagon and 
 
FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 
 
 Sprayer. The holes should be dug large enough so 
 that the roots may be spread out naturally, as nearly 
 like they grew before as possible, and more than 
 merely deep enough to admit roots to the proper 
 depth, thus allowing for some good surface soil for 
 the roots to rest upon. Before vines are set the 
 tops should be cut back to about four eyes on the 
 new growth and the roots cut back to ten inches 
 in length. Numerous small rootlets are sent out 
 to take the place of the comparatively few large ones 
 cut off and the vines are thus considerably improved. 
 As to the depth to set vines, we need not exercise 
 the care necessary in setting the strawberry or other 
 small plants; there is more danger of getting vines 
 too shallow than there is in getting them too deep, 
 as when set deep they throw out roots above those 
 already formed and thus the vines are strengthened. 
 It is best, however, to have at least two buds above 
 ground. 
 
 As stated above, the vines should be placed at 
 proper depth with roots spread naturally; good sur- 
 face soil should then cover the roots and be tramped 
 very firmly, there being no danger of getting them 
 in the ground too solid about the roots; near the 
 surface the soil should be left loose. 
 
 In regard to the best time to set grape vines, early 
 spring is best for the amateur, although it is pos- 
 sible to plant successfully any time when vines are 
 dormant and soil in a condition to work well, ex- 
 cepting at the North, where it is advisable to plant 
 altogether in spring. One disadvantage in fall plant- 
 ing is that frequently the weeds get a start in early 
 spring before cultivation can be given, which makes 
 the season's expense greater than it would be were 
 the vines set in the spring. On the other hand, if 
 we have the time to plant in the fall it is best not 
 
10 GRO\\ TNG GRAPES _ 
 
 to put it off, as all have more than plenty of work 
 to look after in busy springtime. 
 
 If many vines are received at a time from a dis- 
 tance, care should be taken that the roots do not 
 become dry before they are planted. If well packed 
 they may be taken from the package in which they 
 are sent as needed the roots being dipped in water 
 just before planting. In case they are received some 
 time before ground is ready for planting, the bundles 
 should be broken and the vines heeled m thinly 
 where the soil is mellow and dry enough. 
 
 SUPPORT. 
 
 There are various ways of supporting grape vines. 
 They may be trained to buildings, over arbors, to 
 single or double stakes or to trellises. The vine- 
 yardist who does not intend to cultivate both ways, 
 should have the rows running north and south, ex- 
 cept in cases where vineyards are on steep hillsides 
 where the sun has a chance to shine over one row 
 to another, the object being to have as much sun- 
 shine as possible strike both sides of vines during 
 the course of each day. , 
 
 For the amateur the single stake support is the 
 best, because he is not so apt to overtax the vine. 
 One vine to each root well cared for will give a 
 good crop. Most amateurs will endeavor to cover 
 a trellis completely with bearing wood and thereby 
 exhaust the vine to such an extent as to render the 
 vineyard unprofitable within the course of a few 
 years. When vines are very vigorous, two stakes 
 may be set, one on either side of the root. In cases 
 where the slope is not too steep there is a great 
 advantage in the stake system by being able to cul- 
 tivate both ways and thus do away with a great 
 
FKLIT-GKOWEK CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 11 
 
 deal of hand labor. It is a great advantage to select 
 posts that last a long time in the ground, such as 
 red cedar, black locust, mulberry, Osage Orange, 
 catalpa speciosa, etc. Those who grow grapes on a 
 large scale can well afford to plant any waste land 
 to black locust, which grows most rapidly and lasts 
 as well as any. 
 
 For the grower who thoroughly understands the 
 grape vine and knows how to prune the different 
 varieties, the trellis has some advantages, the main 
 point in its favor being that it is not so expensive 
 to keep in repair. Posts of the varieties mentioned 
 above should be firmly set twelve feet apart. Two 
 good No. 9 galvanized wires should be tightly 
 stretched from post to post, well anchored at each 
 end of row; one wire should be 6 feet from the 
 ground, and one 18 inches lower. The vines should 
 extend to the top wire with a bearing branch three 
 to five feet in length extending each way, thus form- 
 ing a letter T. In case of extraordinary vigor of 
 vines, a little bearing wood may be left for the 
 lower wire, but as a rule the lower wire should be 
 used only to support the young wood for the next 
 year's fruiting and for propagation. 
 
 The danger of overtaxing vines by leaving too 
 much bearing wood is especially liable to occur when 
 vines are trained to arbors. The idea seems to be 
 that to furnish the most shade the wood should be 
 entirely covered with dormant wood. In most cases 
 if one-half the bearing wood were left, more and 
 better shade would be had and the vines would not 
 be cropped to death. It should be remembered that 
 the more the old or dormant wood is cut back, the 
 more vigorous will be the young growth, the latter 
 furnishing by far the best shade. 
 
 The best way to support vines to the sides of 
 
12 GROAATTNG GRAPES 
 
 buildings is by fastening them with strips of leather 
 or tin. 
 
 When the stake system is used, one stake to a 
 vine is ordinarily sufficient, though when vines are 
 very vigorous two stakes may be used. Again it is 
 sometimes a good plan to have one stake to sup- 
 port the crop and another for the young growth, 
 which gives the fruit more air and sunshine than 
 it could get if all were tied up to one stake. When 
 stakes are used it is a good plan to have an extra 
 supply of stakes on hand so that in case some 
 stakes should be broken by storms, they may be 
 promptly replaced. It should be remembered that 
 if a vine loaded with fruit is allowed to lie on the 
 ground for any length of time, not only the present 
 crop is ruined, but the vine is injured to such :.n 
 extent that it will not recover for several years. It 
 may bear some fruit, but the fruit will ripen uneven- 
 ly and be unmarketable. In buying stakes for the 
 vineyard it should be remembered that a stake six 
 inches through is worth four times as much in the 
 long run as one three inches in diameter, for the 
 reason that it is the heart of the tree that lasts best 
 under ground. 
 
 CULTIVATION. 
 
 As with all other fruits, success or failure depends 
 upon the amount of proper cultivation given. Al- 
 though the grape is one of the easiest crops to cul- 
 tivate, it is none the less important that the work 
 should be thoroughly done. As soon as vines are 
 planted the harrow should be run right over the 
 vines and if a rain follows soon after it may be run 
 a second or even a third time. This shallow culti- 
 vation is the very best that can be given and at the 
 sarne time the cheapest. 
 
FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. IS 
 
 The greatest advantage of cultivation is not in 
 killing the weeds, yet if we cultivate every time the 
 weeds threaten to appear, which is after every rain 
 or good shower, we are very apt to keep the surface 
 well broken, as it should be at all times as nearly 
 as possible. 
 
 Cultivation should begin in spring just as early as 
 the ground is dry enough and the soil kept loose 
 and mellow all through the growing season. The 
 object in keeping the soil in such a condition is 
 chiefly to enable it to receive and retain moisture. 
 When vineyards are cultivated but one way and the 
 rows hoed, care should be taken to leave the sur- 
 face loose instead of simply scraping the weeds off 
 and leaving the surface smooth as is in many cases 
 done. When weeds get a start, as they will some- 
 times do, in cases of successive rains, the one-horse 
 plow can be used to an advantage, but care should 
 be taken not to run it too deep next to the vines. 
 The best tool ordinarily is a one-horse cultivator or 
 harrow. 
 
 POLLENIZATION. 
 
 Unlike the strawberry and some other fruits, the 
 sex of the grape blossom is very hard to deter- 
 mine, and for this reason it is not safe to plant a 
 variety by itself which we do not know is self-pol- 
 lenizing. It is always well to plant with such vari- 
 eties some well-known sort that we know will bear 
 by itself, like Concord or Moore's Early. All vane- 
 ties will produce some fruit, even though growing 
 to themselves, but many varieties thus grown pro- 
 duce imperfect bunches which are not marketable 
 and the weight of fruit is not there. Green Moun- 
 tain is supposed to be one of the very best pollen- 
 producing varieties in cultivation. 
 
14 GROWING GRAPES 
 
 PRUNING. 
 
 In no other fruit is the right sort of pruning so 
 essential as with the grape; in fact, success or failure 
 is based on that one point, even though all others 
 have been observed. It is safe to say that more 
 vineyards have been ruined by improper pruning 
 than in any other way. The trouble with most 
 growers is that they expect too much from their 
 vines and leave too much bearing wood. In this 
 way many vines have been made to crop themselves 
 to death in the course of a few years that might 
 have lived and produced good crops for fifty years 
 if properly pruned. No fixed rule can be laid down 
 for this work, as different varieties require different 
 pruning. Moore's Early, for example, does best when 
 small young canes not much larger than a lead pen- 
 cil are left for fruiting, which is also the case with 
 several other sorts. The vineyardist, therefore, 
 should be a close observer of nature, he should study 
 each variety and prune according to its needs. In 
 most cases the strongest canes should be removed, 
 and the medium sized ones left for fruiting. Most 
 varieties bear best on young wood of the previous 
 year's growth; it is therefore advisable to renew 
 vines from year to year, much in the same way as 
 we do raspberries and blackberries, only in case of 
 ,the latter the old wood dies and with the grape we 
 must have the nerve to cut it out and give the young 
 wood a chance. When vines are trained to a trellis 
 it is well with some varieties to leave the main vine 
 permanent or at least for a few years, and each 
 year renew the young canes that extend on the vines. 
 Other varieties, like Norton's Virginia Seedling and 
 Cynthiana, do best on old wood and need only be 
 
FKUIT-GHOW^R CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 15 
 
 renewed say once in ten or fifteen years. In prun- 
 ing the vines when dormant, not more than two or 
 three buds should be left on each side branch of the 
 main vine. 
 
 As to the proper time to prune, it may be done 
 any time when the vine is thoroughly dormant, be 
 it fall, winter or early spring. All tender varieties 
 should be pruned in fall so they may be laid to the 
 ground and protected. It is safe to say that more 
 vines are ruined by not being pruned enough than 
 by being pruned too severely. Cut a vine back 
 severely and what fruit there is will be very choice 
 and the vine left viprorous. Prune too sparingly 
 and you will get poor fruit, frequently too poor for 
 any use, and the vine will he greatly injured, if not 
 ruined. The production of seed is the greatest tax 
 on any tree, plant or vine — a point we should con- 
 sider when we prune and thin fruit. 
 
 Summer pruning or pinching is beneficial when 
 properly done, but is frequently abused. In consists, 
 or should consist, of the ends of the young shoots 
 bearing the fruit being pinched off with thumb and 
 finger not closer than two leaves beyond the last 
 bunch. This pinching should be done promptly, just 
 as soon as the growth is long enough to permit of 
 it being done and as the growth is frequently un- 
 even, it is Txecessary to go over the vineyard several 
 times. The object of such pruning is to balance up 
 the vines, that is by pinching the first shoots that 
 become long enough, it gives the weaker ones a 
 chance to catch up and thus make the fruit ripen 
 more evenly and perfectly. It also makes the 
 bunches more compact, making many bunches mar- 
 ketable that otherwise would be too loose. This 
 work is sometimes deferred until the wood hardens 
 and then it is cut back carelessly with a knife. In 
 
16 GROWING GRAPES 
 
 such cases a great deal of harm is done and the 
 vines would give far better results if they were not 
 molested. To renew, two to three vigorous shoots 
 should be allowed to grow up from the base or near 
 the bottom of each vine, yearly, and the rest that 
 may appear should be rubbed off soon after they 
 start and those left should be tied up promptly as 
 fast as they grow. 
 
 THINNING 
 
 Many varieties are too prolific. Close pruning 
 will remedy the matter somewhat, but even then 
 more bunches are formed than the vine can mature 
 and the smaller ones should be taken off shortly 
 after they are out of bloom. Woodruff is a variety 
 that needs thinning perhaps more than any other. 
 It is a good plan to do more or less thinning of all 
 varieties by removing such small bunches as will 
 not be fit for market, thus giving more energy io 
 the remaining fruit. Grape vines often have double 
 buds, from which two shoots grow; the weaker one 
 of these should be pulled off while young and tender 
 and other laterals that do not promise to give good 
 fruit may also be removed, providing there are 
 enough left to give the vine the amount of foliage 
 it should have. 
 
 ENEMIES OF THE GRAPE. 
 
 Although the grape is one of the easiest fruits to 
 grow, it is not without its share of pests. The first 
 insect noticeable in a young vineyard is the leaf 
 folder; the leaves are drawn together by webs and 
 beneath the folded leaves the insect, a greenish 
 worm, completely devours the same. By clasping 
 such leaves quickly between your hands the insect 
 
FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 17 
 
 may be crushed, which is the only means of com- 
 bating it. The best remedy, as with other pests, 
 is to keep the vines growing vigorously so the foli- 
 age thus taken will not be missed. The effect of 
 this insect is seldom, if ever, serious, and is only 
 noticeable when vines are small. 
 
 The Steel Blue Beetle is a little hard-shelled bug 
 not much larger than a grain of wheat that in some 
 years is very harmful to the grape, eating off the 
 buds just as they begin to push out in early spring. 
 This insect is very irregular in its work, one year 
 devouring a crop almost entirely and another year 
 being scarcely noticeable. Like the plum curculio, 
 it has the habit of dropping to the ground when the 
 vine is jarred; the way to catch them is to hold a 
 shallow pan partly filled with coal oil, beneath the 
 vine and then give the vine a jar. A tedious job, 
 but sometimes necessary to save the crop. 
 
 The Leaf Hopper is an insect which, although not 
 very widely known, has done great injury to vine- 
 yards in some parts of the country. It is a leaf- 
 eating insect and has been known to defoliate vine- 
 yards entirely. There is as yet no successful way 
 of combating it. 
 
 BLACK ROT 
 
 Perhaps the most destructive pest of the grape is 
 the black rot, a fungous disease which usually be- 
 gins its wcrk after a warm period of rainy weather. 
 It appears first on the leaves, showing itself in 
 brown rust-like spots and blotches, beginning its 
 work on the fruit when the latter is about one-half 
 grown and cortinuing until the fruit ripens, if not 
 all destroyed before that time arrives. A vineyard 
 once infested will remain so ever afterward, provid- 
 ing no steps of prevention are taken, since the spores 
 
18 GROWING iSRAPES 
 
 or germs live over winter, becoming worse each 
 year. 
 
 Bordeaux mixture is the best known preventive 
 and cure, with which every vineyard, whether in- 
 fested or not, should be sprayed at least once each 
 season. Vineyards where the rot has been at work 
 should be sprayed the first time just as the buds 
 push out and every ten days thereafter, being care- 
 ful not to spray when the vines are in bloom. The 
 spraying should be thoroughly done; a fine mist-like 
 spray should cover every part of vine and foliage. 
 The disease once thoroughly subdued, the sprayings 
 need not be so frequent the following season, nor 
 is it necessary to spray as often in a dry season as 
 in a wet one. 
 
 DOWNY MILDEW. 
 
 This is another fungous disease to which the grape 
 is subject, which acts much in the same way, ex- 
 cepting that it is more injurious to foliage and not 
 so much to the fruit as the rot. Bordeaux mixture 
 is the best remedy. 
 
 PHYLLOXERA. 
 
 This so-called disease is caused by the work of 
 a species of small sucking insects. One species of 
 this family (there being several) works on the roots 
 and appear in such great numbers that the roots be- 
 come one mafs of galls and are no longer able to 
 support the vine. Another form works on the leaves, 
 also producing galls, the latter being by far the 
 least injurious. For some years past this pest has 
 done great havoc to the vineyards of France, so that 
 for a time it was feared that the grape, or rather 
 the wine, industry there would have to be aban- 
 doned. It is thought that the insect was imported 
 
FRUIT-GKOWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 19 
 
 from North America. Our native grapes, being 
 more healthy and vigorous than foreign varieties, 
 are more able to resist this and other pests, and 
 while a number of vineyards have been destroyed 
 by this pest, it is not generally known among the 
 vineyards of this country and is by no means the 
 worst enemy to the grape. 
 
 The best way to guard against this pest, is in 
 the way of rich soil, liberal feeding, close pruning 
 and thorough cultivation, also by spraying to keep 
 foliage strong and healthy. In this way the vines 
 are kept so vigorous as to be able to resist this and 
 other diseases, as stated previously. When vines 
 that are well cared for in every way show an unac- 
 countable weakness, Phyllexera may be feared and 
 if upon examining the roots they are found to be 
 thus infested, they should at once be dug out and 
 destroyed, lest the disease should spread all over 
 the vineyard. 
 
 BIRDS AS A PEST. 
 
 While all will agree that birds in general should 
 be protected, destroying, as they do, vast quantities 
 of insects that are injurious to our fruits, we must 
 in many sections, in order to make grape growing 
 profitable, make the oriole an exception. It is in 
 many cases necessary to keep constant watch and 
 shoot these, one of our most beautiful and sweetest 
 singers. If this bird, like most other birds, would 
 pull off a berry at a time and fly to a nearby tree 
 with it, later to return for another, the injury would 
 amount to comparatively nothing, but not so with 
 the oriole which, being after the juice only, goes 
 Jrom one bunch to another, puncturing enough ber- 
 ries on each to spoil it for market. A single bird 
 thus ruins many a dollar's worth of fruit in the 
 
GROWING GRAPES 
 
 course of a day. It may therefore be seen that when 
 they appear in large numbers that the entire crop 
 is destroyed, if not protected. 
 
 BAGGING THE GRAPES. 
 
 In small gardens where but a few vines are grown 
 the best means of protecting the fruit is to slip 
 strong paper bags over each and every bunch. One 
 and two pound bags are used, such as are used by 
 grocerymen, etc. The best way to apply these is 
 to tear the opposite corners down say one inch, slip 
 the bag over the bunch and by means of the slits at 
 the corners, let the top of the bag extend beyond 
 the lateral to which the bunch is attached, then by 
 means of fine soft wire or twine, draw the top of 
 the bag tightly. This work should be done as soon 
 as the bunches are well established or when the ber- 
 ries are the size of small peas. The most beneficial 
 result from bagging is the prevention of rot; if the 
 work is thoroughly done, that is, all the good 
 bunches well bagged and the rest pulled off it is a 
 sure cure. Although not necessary for the preser- 
 vation of the fruit when bagged, it is advisable to 
 give at least one spraying each season to keep the 
 foliage healthy. The bagging generally prevents the 
 birds from injuring the fruit, though an occasional 
 bird is smart enough to tear the bag and destroy 
 the bunches. When fruit is intended for exhibition 
 purposes the bagging is a great advantage, because 
 it preserves the bloom most perfectly. The thought 
 of bagging each and every good bunch, even in a 
 small vineyard, seems like a big task, but when we 
 get at it with nimble fingers a great deal is accom- 
 plished in a day. One person with a little experi- 
 ence should put on two thousand bags per day, rep- 
 resenting two to three thousand pounds of fruit. 
 
FRUrr-GROWEK CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 21 
 
22 GROWING GRAPES 
 
 NATIVE VARIETIES. 
 
 It is needless to dwell upon foreign varieties, non6 
 of which succeed in our soil and climate. Our first 
 two really good native grapes were Isabella (black) 
 and Catawba (red), both of which still remain on 
 our list of profitable grapes; the former has not 
 been held in much esteem since the introduction of 
 the Concord, which is an improvement upon it, but 
 Catawba is still largely grown and sent to market 
 by the tors each season. Catawba is a little weak 
 in foliage, requiring a little closer pruning than most 
 varieties, therefore succeeding with the judicious 
 grower, when under the same conditions the care- 
 less grower will fail. These were followed by Diana, 
 Delaware, Rebecca and Concord. Delaware and 
 Concord still remain on our list of profitable vari- 
 eties. Delaware is a little peculiar in its habits, do- 
 ing well in one section and poorly in another, yet 
 with special care in the way of high feeding and 
 close pruning it will succeed fairly well anywhere. 
 It is a small red grape of excellent quality. 
 
 The best advice to the amateur is: "When in 
 doubt, plant the Concord." It is regarded by the 
 best authorities to be the foundation- of our best 
 grapes today and itself is an all-round good variety 
 that succeeds under more adverse conditions than 
 any other. Perhaps more of this variety goes to 
 our markets each season than of all other varieties 
 combined. 
 
 Roger's Hybrids are a class of grapes of com- 
 paratively recent introduction representing a few 
 varieties that are of value, but all of this class are 
 inclined to be a little weak in foliage, requiring a 
 little special attention in the way of pruning and 
 
FKUIT-GKOWEK CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 23 
 
 winter protection. Wilder and Herbert, both black, 
 are large in bunch and berry and almost unexcelled 
 when at their best. Goethe is a red belonging to 
 this class, which is perhaps in quality the best native 
 variety in cultivation. This variety should find a 
 place in every home garden, as the grower is more 
 than repaid for the extra attention it requires. Other 
 good varieties of this class are Agawam, Amania, 
 Barry, Gaertner, Lindley, Massasoit and Merrimac, 
 of which there is not space for description. 
 
 Woodruff is one of our best red grapes when well 
 grown. It has the fault of overbearing, so that even 
 when closely pruned it is generally necessary to 
 pull off much of the fruit when one-half grown. It 
 is large in bunch and berry, bunch very compact 
 and of excellent quality. 
 
 Lutie, a comparatively new variety, is in a red 
 grape what the Concord is in a black, a grape for 
 the masses, succeeding as it does under almost any 
 conditions, as hardy and vigorous as any oak. One 
 of the very earliest to ripen, large compact bunch, 
 very sweet and delicious to most fruit lovers. It has 
 however, quite a little of that peculiar flavor called 
 foxiness, to which some persons object. 
 
 Worden, a seedling of Concord, same color, is 
 one-fourth larger, ripens a little earlier and is con- 
 siderably better in quality. It ripens rather unevenly 
 and has a very delicate skin, which points are against 
 it for shipping; it well deserves a place in the home 
 garden. 
 
 The best and most profitable early black grape is 
 Moore's Early. As mentioned in another chapter, 
 it requires a little special attention in the way of 
 pruning, but, all points considered, it is not only the 
 most profitable early grape, but there is not a va- 
 riety on our entire list that will rival it for profit 
 
24 GROWING GRAPES 
 
 in the vicinity of St. Louis and many other markets. 
 Ripens with the earliest, large in bunch and berry; 
 bunch very compact, black with a handsome blue 
 bloom, quite productive and hardy and so nch and , 
 sweet that its hard pulp is not objectionable. { i 
 
 This variety was for a time supposed to have a 1 
 rival in Campbell's Early, but it has not proven so. 
 Campbell's Early is still larger than Moore s Early, 
 both in bunch and berry and has a tougher skm. ^ j 
 Moore's often cracks in wet weather, whereas | 
 Campbell's does not; in this respect it is an improve- 
 ment but when we consider that it is poorer in 
 quality and not so reliable as a cropper, owing to 
 weaker foliage which renders it less hardy and fre- 
 quently causes it to ripen unevenly, we will cling to 
 Moore's Early. . ^ , r- . „ 
 
 In white grapes Green Mountain stands tirst as 
 an extremely early variety, bunch large, berry small, 
 hardy, productive, quality perfection in a white 
 grape. ... 
 
 Moore's Diamond follows this in ripening; m 
 bunch a little larger, in berry somewhat smaller 
 than Concord; quite productive, quality very good, 
 the skin of the fruit is so tender that in the south 
 it often scorches on the vine; this does not occur 
 further north and as it is very hardy, it is there a 
 success. 
 
 If Niagara were a little hardier it would be almost 
 perfection in a white grape. It is, in fact, the ideal 
 grape, though it might represent more wealth to 
 the world at large if it were black. Bunch and berry 
 are uniformly large and perfect, bunch always com- 
 pact, skin very thin, yet tough enough that it does 
 not crack; very productive and quality very good. 
 It is hardy enough to go through ordinary winters 
 without protection, but north of 45 degrees latitude 
 
FRUIT-GRO\VER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 25 
 
 it should in severe winters be laid to the ground. 
 This means to be safe, to do it annually. 
 
 Norton's Virginia Seedling and Cynthiana repre- 
 sent our best varieties for heavy red wine and grape 
 juice. 
 
 Herbemont (red in color), is a delicious old va- 
 riety both for table and wine. Still grown in the 
 South, where it succeeds far better than toward the 
 North. 
 
 In the way of new grapes we have in the McPike 
 what may be termed a valuable curiosity. It is as 
 much of an improvement over its parent as Wor- 
 den is over its parent, the Concord. It is the largest 
 excellent grape known. Interesting and valuable m 
 the home garden, but it is feared that for distant 
 shipping it is too large and tender skinned. 
 
 Stark Star is beyond a doubt the most wonderful 
 new grape on our list. In productiveness nothing 
 will compare with it. In size of bunch it surpasses 
 all others, berry almost as large as Concord. Per- 
 fection in vigor and hardiness, dark red in color al- 
 most black, skin thin but tough, therefore one of the 
 best shippers; quality fair when fully matured. It 
 requires a long season to ripen, therefore may prove 
 of greater value in the south than toward the north, 
 where it should be planted only in an experimental 
 way. Vigor and hardiness in Stark Star was obtained 
 from the wild grapes of our forests, size and quality 
 from our best cultivated sorts, it being a result of 
 a cross between the two. The originator of the 
 above grape, Joseph Bachman of Arkansas, no doubt 
 got his idea of such a cross from T. V. Munson of 
 Texas, who is regarded today as the best authority 
 on the grape the world has ever seen. Mr. Munson 
 has originated hundreds of varieties by such cross- 
 ing, many of which are on our list of good grapes 
 
GROWING GRAPES 
 
 and planted extensively in the south, but they are 
 as yet but little known toward the north. 
 
 PROPAGATION. 
 
 The grape is usually propagated from cuttings, 
 varying in length from eight to eighteen inches. 
 When joints are long sometimes but two buds are 
 used to a cutting, one at each end, a keen cut being 
 made just below the lower and above the upper bud. 
 It is better to have cuttings contain three or more 
 buds, which can be given when wood is short joint- 
 ed. The cuttings should be made in the fall when • 
 wood is thoroughly dormant, preferably before V j 
 severe freezing weather, tied in bundles and packed ' ■ 
 in moist sawdust or sand in the root cellar or buried 
 in the ground in a sheltered place outside. They 
 should be lined out in the nursery as early in spring 
 as the ground is dry enough to work well; the 
 earlier the better, for if deferred the buds may push i 1 
 forth and many of them be knocked off in handling, f ] 
 
 The soil should be worked to the full depth of 
 the cuttings, made fine and firm with drag or 
 roller. A furrow is then made with the spade the A J 
 depth of the cutting, with a straight bank on one 1 ^ 
 side. Place cuttings along this bank four to six 
 inches apart, push the mellow earth to them, tramp 
 firmly and level up so the top bud is level with the 
 surface. Some authorities advise setting the cut- 
 tings at a slope of forty-five degrees, but the writer 
 thinks best to put them perpendicular. 
 
 Cuttings are also made of single eyes or buds, 
 which is done to hasten propagation when varieties 
 are new and the wood scarce. The wood is cut up 
 into lengths containing one bud each and these are 
 placed flat on sand in pots or on benches in a green 
 
FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 27 
 
 house or in a hot-bed; an inch of sand is then pat 
 over them; uniform bottom heat is necessary for 
 them to succeed. These single-eye cuttings make 
 weak vines and should be avoided if others are to 
 be had. 
 
 Some varieties do not grow well from cuttings 
 and must be grown by layering or grafting. Layers 
 are usually made of young wood of the previous 
 year's growth. Select a bud on a young cane about 
 one foot from the root of the vine, place a sharp 
 knife just below the bud and cut upward under and 
 slightly past the bud; now withdraw the knife, give 
 the vine a gentle twist and at the same time turn 
 it upward, causing the lip containing 6ud to turn 
 downward, push this knee, as it were, down into 
 an opening in the ground made for it to the depth 
 of two or three inches, and secure it there by firmly 
 pressing fine, moist earth about and over it; if nec- 
 essary pin it down with one or two sharpened sticks 
 or a forked stick. The vine may be curved and put 
 down again in the same way, sometimes making two, 
 three or more vines of one cane. Layers will gen- 
 erally root by simply bruising and twisting the vine 
 where it goes into the ground, but the lip method 
 is surer and makes better vines. Layers may also 
 be grown from green wood of the present season's 
 growth. 
 
 In grafting the grape, the cleft graft is used the 
 same as for grafting fruit trees, etc. Time to graft 
 is when the sap begins to move in the stock, the 
 scion to be dormant. Great gains are to be realized 
 by grafting the grape. Unprofitable vineyards may 
 in one year's time be turned into profit producing 
 any desired variety or varieties, or one year old 
 vines in the nursery may be changed to some rare 
 new sort, the single bud inserted into each vine get- 
 
28 GROWING GRAPES 
 
 ting the benefit of the vigorous young root and in 
 one season make a splendid vine for the vineyard. 
 The grafting is done from one to four inches below 
 ground at which point the vine to be grafted is to 
 be cut or sawed off; if stock is large it must be split 
 by sawing down through the center of the stump; 
 now drive a hard narrow, wooden wedge into the 
 center of this cut, trim the edges of the openings 
 on either side and on each side, carefully fit a scion,! 
 containing from one to three buds. Care should be I 
 taken to see that the inner barks of stock and scion i 
 come exactly in contact with each other and wei 
 should understand that the bark of scion being much 
 thinner than that of stock, the scion must be set in 
 a little way in order to have the inner barks to- 
 gether. The scions rightly placed, the wedge is 
 carefully withdrawn, which pinches the scions firmly 
 and makes tying unnecessary. 
 
 Moist, mellow earth is then packed firmly around 
 the base of scions, fine earth is then banked up to 
 the top of scion, leaving a flat surface on top on 
 which is placed from four to six inches of sawdust. 
 The graft is then left unmolested until growth ap- 
 pears, which may be in from two to eight weeks, 
 when growth appears there should be an examina- 
 tion to determine whether it comes from the scion 
 or from the root below. Suckers from the old root 
 should of course be promptly removed. When small 
 stocks are grafted the splitting is done with a sharp 
 knife and the scion firmly bound in place with strong 
 twine. 
 
 The greatest drawback about grafting the grape 
 is that it is expensive work for the beginner, espe- 
 cially if the vines sacrificed for another variety are 
 of value, because almost every root upon which the 
 grafts fail is lost. The writer got his first experi- 
 
FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 29 
 
 ence by grafting wild vines, which resulted in fine 
 large grapes being found growing in the woods, 
 the fence row and other waste places about his 
 home. Perhaps others may profit by this sugges- 
 tion. 
 
 GATHERING AND MARKETING. 
 
 Perhaps the most important point to consider in 
 gathering grapes for market is that the fruit must 
 be thoroughly ripe when taken from the vine, as, 
 unlike most other fruits, it does not ripen after be- 
 ing gathered. With several varieties, more than 
 color is necessary for the fruit to be marketable, as 
 they color before they are ripe. Take for example 
 the Ives, which is one of those that color prema- 
 turely. Some years ago tons of this variety were 
 sent to our northern markets when fairly colored, 
 yet the fruit was sour and unfit to eat. The result 
 was that the consumer condemned early grapes and 
 the market for the same was ruined for some years 
 to follow. Now that we have Moore's Early and 
 Campbell's Early and the southern growers are the 
 wiser for an expensive lesson, early grapes are in 
 demand and in most sections more profitable than 
 the later sorts. 
 
 In gathering grapes a firm, shallow basket or tray 
 should be used. The one-third bushel melon basket 
 makes a good package for this purpose. Care should 
 be taken to handle the bunches as much as practi- 
 cable by the stems in order to preserve the bloom 
 on the fruit as much as possible. The fruit should 
 be taken to cool in a spacious shed, which shed 
 should preferably be shaded by large trees during 
 the worst heat of the day. It is generally preferable 
 to have the fruit gathered a few hours before it is 
 packed, as during this time the bunches shrink a 
 
( 
 
 30 GROWING GRAPES 
 
 little, which makes the handling easier. Women and 
 girls are usually employed to clip out the injured , 
 and imperfect berries and pack into the shipping ■ j 
 baskets. Care should be taken to have the fruit 
 grade well all through the package and it is a wise 
 plan for each shipper to consign all of his fruit to 
 one firm, that he has reason to believe is reliable. 
 This will enable the merchant and his customers to 
 get acquainted with your fruit and the label, or trade 
 mark, which every basket should bear, will be look- 
 ed for. The grower who sends poor or carelessly 
 packed fruit to market is not only loser himself, but 
 it is just such work that breaks down the markets. 
 Many a person has decided not to purchase a second 
 basket of fruit because the last one, which looked 
 so nice on top, was more disappointing than any- 
 thing else. 
 
 The Climax basket is the package most generally 
 used for the grape, of which there are several sizes 
 holding from five pounds up, the different sizes 
 meeting the requirements of different markets. Fruit 
 should always be well cooled before it is started on 
 its journey to market. For the home market the 
 four-basket crate is frequently a desirable package. 
 When fruit grades well in the vineyard it is a good 
 plan to pack the fruit from the vine to package, thus 
 saving time and preserving the bloom; a few im- 
 perfect berries may be picked off, as the home mar- 
 ket is not critical so long as fruit is good and shows 
 up well. 
 
 Most growers have not the nerve to pull off the 
 small and straggling bunches early, to throw more 
 vigor into the marketable bunches and have less to 
 handle, and others think they have not time to do it. 
 If this is not done, a lot of culls are on hand to be 
 made some use of. Those who understand the prin- 
 
FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 31 
 
 ciples of wine making and are equipped for it, can 
 utilize this waste to a good advantage, but otherwise 
 it should not be undertaken, as the result will prove 
 worse than worthless. 
 
 Many professional wine makers are so eager for 
 quantity that to avoid waste they cut the grapes 
 before they are ripe enough to make a good whole- 
 some wine. They do not seem to understand that 
 to defer the cutting a few weeks and get but one- 
 half the quantity would give a greater profit, owing 
 to superior quality. 
 
 Unfermented grape juice and jelly is doubtless 
 the best way to use up the culls. 
 
 Fruit-growing will never be what it should be 
 until the culls are done away with and only good 
 fruit is produced, which is by no means impossible. 
 One of the first and best steps to take in this direc- 
 tion is for growers not to undertake more than 
 they can properly handle. There are scores of in- 
 stances where if the grower had but one-half the 
 area in fruit that he now has, then having all he 
 could properly attend to, he would realize more 
 profit, have less worry and others would share the 
 benefit. 
 
32 
 
 GROA^^NG GRAPES 
 
 THE MUNSON SYSTEM OF TRAINING 
 GRAPES. 
 
 In connection with the matter on subject of grape 
 culture presented in this booklet, it is desired to pre- 
 sent some information concerning a form of grape 
 trellis which is advocated by Mr. T. V. Munson, of 
 Denison, Texas, one of the best authorities on the 
 grape in the world. Mr. Munson describes his trellis 
 as follows: 
 
 JJcal SktioU 0] //,» ^fl.nSo». Trell.'s 
 
 "The essential features of the trellis consist of 
 three horizontal parallel wires, supported above and 
 along each row of vines by any system of perma- 
 nent posts and arms most available to the planter. 
 
 "The middle, or lower, wire should be some four 
 or five inches lower than and midway between the 
 two upper wires, which should be about twenty or 
 twenty-two inches apart, and four and a half or five 
 feet from the ground, or they can be as low as three 
 feet from the ground in dry, windy climates. 
 
 "No. 11 galvanized wire is sufficiently strong for 
 the wires, and experience has shown that twenty- 
 
FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. S3 
 
 four feet between the posts is the right distance. 
 The end posts should be strong and set not less 
 than three feet deep; four feet is still better, thus 
 avoiding the necessity of bracing them. The inter- 
 mediate posts need not be set over two feet in the 
 ground, as they merely sustain the downward pres- 
 sure of the vines, the end posts taking up all of the 
 lateral strain. 
 
 "Sketch on opposite page shows a view of the end 
 post of this trellis, together with the post next to 
 it, with young vines being trained up to the lower 
 wire, along twine strings tied to stakes at the root, 
 and to the middle wire at the top. In actual practice 
 the two lateral, or side wires are not put on until 
 the winter of the second year, after the young vines 
 have been pruned and tied as in Figure 2. 
 
 "While it is stated that the end posts are not 
 braced, where set deep in the ground, it will be 
 noted from the sketch that the cross-arms are 
 braced. The ones attached to the end posts are 
 braced by the longer wires marked 'brace' attached 
 to the next post, to prevent the arms from being 
 pulled back and forth by the lateral wires. Each 
 cross-arm is also braced by the shorter brace wires, 
 attached to the same post, so that if the load on one 
 wire is heavier than that on the other, one side will 
 not be drawn down and the other side raised. These 
 brace wires are simply to make the lateral wires sta- 
 ble, by bracing the cross-arms. 
 
 "In using this trellis the vines are planted imme- 
 diately beneath the middle wire. The first season 
 the growth is restricted to one vigorous shoot, which 
 is trained about a string, as shown in the illustration. 
 This string is simply to get the growing shoot up 
 to the middle wire, and of course has no part in 
 
34 
 
 GROAAHtNG GRAPES 
 
 the permanent trellis. By restricting the growth to 
 this one shoot, a vigorous growth can be obtained, 
 and this forms the main trunk of the vine in after 
 years. 
 
 "Figure 1 shows a vine after having made one 
 year's strong e^rowth, pruned and tied. The vine 
 has two branches, A and B, each tied at t t, and the 
 trellis is now ready to have the cross-arms and two 
 lateral wires put on. 
 
 "In this system little tying of the vines is needed; 
 the first year, as shown in Figure 1, two canes are 
 left, and each is tied near its base, and is then wrap- 
 ped about the middle wire, and tied again at the ex* 
 treme end. As the vine becomes older, two more 
 canes are left, one running each way, but never more 
 
FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 35 
 
 than four canes are left to bear. The^e canes are tied 
 to the middle wire, always, and the new growth, the 
 bearing shoots, extend over the side wires, and attach 
 themselves thereto by their tendrils. The fruit is 
 thus borne under a canopy of green leaves, with free 
 circulation of air underneath. 
 
 "This system of training contemplates the renew- 
 ing of the vine, from the main trunk, every year. 
 Accordingly, an effort is made to grow canes start- 
 ing from near the head of the trunk every year, to 
 replace the old ones, which are entirely pruned 
 away. Take, for instance, a vine which has four 
 canes left to bear fruit. When growth begins in 
 spring, select fcur new shoots which will come out 
 near the head, and leave them to produce the bear- 
 ino: wood for the next season's crop. All other shoots 
 which start must be rubbed off, and of course no 
 new growth should ever be allowed on the main 
 trunk, beneath the head. By keeping off all other 
 shoots which start, the growth of the plant will be 
 thrown into those which aj:e left for the next season, 
 and in the shoots which are then bearing a crop of 
 fruit. 
 
 "Figure 2 shows a vine after having borne its sixth 
 crop of some forty pounds of fine fruit each year, 
 after the leaves have fallen, and the vine is ready 
 for pruning. From A to T and from B to T are 
 shown the four last-year arms, two going in each 
 direction, gently twined along the lower wire, one 
 arm being twined around the wire in one direction 
 and the other in the opposite direction, thus holding 
 each other in place on the wire, and requiring only 
 one tie for each pair of arms — near their ends, at 
 T T. 
 
 "This illustration was made from a photograph of 
 a vine of the Ben Hur variety, occupying a space of 
 
36 
 
 GROWING GRAPES 
 
 fully fourteen feet on the trellis, all of which space 
 was filled with clusters borne on shoots coming out 
 of the arms and extending up over the lateral wires, 
 the extremities, when in full leaf, hanging over the 
 
 Fu 
 
 wire like a most beautiful drapery, on each side of 
 the trellis. This constitutes the trough-shaped canopy 
 of foliage over the pendulous fruit below, producing 
 a most beautiful sight and the finest possible fruit, 
 placed in the best possible position for cultivation, 
 for pruning, spraying, harvesting, ventilation, and for 
 allowing one to pass from one row to another. 
 
 "Figure 3 shows this same vine pruned, ready to 
 be tied, with all the cut-away wood removed from 
 the trellis. Note that the old arms are entirely cut 
 
FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, 3IO. 37 
 
 away, back to where the new arms come out, and 
 only wood of last summer's growth, coming out from 
 the head of the vine, is chosen from among the most 
 vigorous shoots pushed out near the crotch of the 
 vine, and which should not have been allowed to 
 
 bear any fruit during their first season. This is 
 strictly the renewal system, in contradistinction to 
 the spur system. 
 
 "Figure 4 shows the same vine tied with two ties, 
 t t, ready to do the work of next growing season. 
 
 "After the first crop, when only two short arms 
 are retained in pruning, if the vines are in good vigor, 
 four arms are retained for the second crop, two arms 
 to go each way, and each year thereafter the length 
 of the arms left is determined by the vigor of the 
 
38 
 
 GROWTXG GRAPES 
 
 vine. If the vine has perfected its crop well and 
 made an excess of new wood over the previous year, 
 leave the arms longer proportionately. But if the 
 vine seems over-worked, and has made less new 
 wood than it did the previous year, then shorten the 
 arms proportionately. 
 
 "The advantages of this system are many. In the 
 first place, the work of pruning and tying the vines 
 is reduced to the minimum. In pruning, the arms 
 which have borne the fruit are cut away entirely, 
 and their places taken by the other canes which have 
 been left for this purpose. In tying these canes, they 
 are wrapped about the middle wire, and only one tie 
 is needed for the two arms going in one direction 
 (see Fig. 4). Cultivation is facilitated because of the 
 
rKUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 39 
 
 fact that the mass of foliage is well above the 
 ground. The fruit is not so likely to rot, for the 
 bunches are borne well above the ground, and as the 
 mass of foliage is horizontal, between the lateral 
 wires, instead of vertical, as in the case of the old- 
 fashioned trellis, the air has free circulation beneath 
 the vines, thus reducing the danger from rot to the 
 minimum. And if it is necessary to spray the vines, 
 the work can be more easily done. With one hand 
 the operator can hold up the drooping foliage and 
 with the other direct the spray mixture under the 
 canopy to the fruit. Then, too, one can pass readily 
 from one row to another, whereas with the old ver- 
 tical trellis one might be compelled to go to the end 
 of a long row to get into another part of the vine- 
 yard. In cold climates, where it is necessary to lay 
 vines down and cover during the winter, this form of 
 trellis will be found particularly valuable. The vines 
 can be pruned as soon as leaves are off in the fall, 
 and the whole plant can then be laid down and cov- 
 ered up, with very little trouble. Next spring the 
 vine can be lifted and the arms tied as recommended, 
 and the plants are ready to bear a crop." 
 
MAY 4 f906 
 
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