Ji 0^ rn ^nn$^ ]l>675 to 1679 y© Jill (Jut: RWTED FOjR CHARIES K.-TI6MT. IM,i MA1L3L EAST, 3825. THE DIARY OF / HENRY TEONGE, CHAPLAIN ON BOARD HIS MAJESTY'S SHIPS ASSISTANCE, BRISTOL, AND ROYAL OAK, ANNO 1675 TO 1679. NOW FIRST PUBLISHED FROM THE ORIGINAL MS. WITH BIOGRAPHICAL AND HISTORICAL NOTES. LONDON: PRINTED FOR CHARLES KNIGHT, PALL MALL EAST. 1825. LONDON : PRINTED BY S. AND R. BENTLEY, DORSET STREET. INTRODUCTION. The Manuscript, which is now first introduced to the Public, had been in the possession of a respect- able Warwickshire family for more than a century. Like many other records of individual adventures and opinions, it had descended, as part of an old library, from one generation to another, without attracting any particular observation. It was at length accidentally offered to the Publisher for sale, as a curious volume that might interest some Col- lector. He was led to think that its interest might be more extended. It appeared to him to present a very natural and faithful picture of customs and manners, as they existed in the English Navy at a period when it was fast rising into that importance which was to decide the rank of this country amongst the nations of the world ; and it further IV INTRODUCTION. offered some very singular results of the experience of an observing and intelligent mind, expressed often with peculiar force and humour, and exhibit- ing some curious indications of the probable average state of morals and intelligence amongst the con- forming clergy of the time of Charles II. In this age, when authentic illustrations of particular times and characters are so eagerly sought, it was consi- dered that the Diary of Henry Teonge might afford amusement and instruction, not only to the antiquarian inquirer, but to the general reader ; and that it might fairly claim some share of public notice, at a time when almost every accession to our storehouse of facts is regarded with favour and curiosity. The particulars which we have been able to coUect of the life of Henry Teonge, are as scanty as might be expected from the remoteness of the period in which he lived, and the comparatively undistin- guished rank which he filled in society. The Diary itself affords us no particulars of the biography of its Author, except at the dates which that Diary records. But it is satisfactory that those dates are in every respect supported by the documents of the parish of which he was Rector ; and, combined with INTRODUCTION. V the information afforded by reference to those docu- ments, altogether enable us to offer something like a connected sketch of the career of this worthy, talented, and eccentric Minister of the Church of England. The only allusion which the Chaplain, in his Diary, makes to his early Hfe, is at the commence- ment of his second voyage. His Captain, on pre- senting him to King Charles II., says, *' An't please your Majesty, this gentleman is an old Cavalier."- This expression, coupled with the circumstance that the Chaplain, at the time of his first voyage, had sons arrived at manhood, not only indicates that his early years had been passed in the service of that cause which appears most likely to have attracted a man of his loyal and genial temperament, but proves that when the res angusta domi drove him from his " House at Spernall," " with small accouter- ments," he was at that advanced period of life, when, to have left the quiet of a country living for the dangers and discomforts of a seafaring career, must have been most painful to any mind but one pos- sessing that happy talent of looking at the bright side of things, which our good-humoured Author so constantly evinces. VI INTRODUCTION. We are unable to discover the precise period at which Henry Teonge availed himself of the security which the Restoration of Charles II. offered to the conforming clergy for the exercise of their functions. Prior, however, to 1670, we find that he was Rec- tor of Alcester, a parish adjoining Spernall, in War- wickshire, in which place it is probable his family resided, as may be conjectured from the following entry in the registry of baptisms in that parish* : — • " April 4, 1669, baptized Richard, son of Thomas Teonge." In the Alcester Register, which goes back as far as the reign of Elizabeth, there is no mention of the name of any rector until the period of Mr. Teonge's avoidance. On the 7th of June, 1670, he was insti- tuted, on the presentation of John Fortescue, Esq. of Cookhill, in the county of Worcester, to the living of Spernall, a parish thus described by Dug- dale in his " History of Warwickshire :" — " Spernall, anciently written Spernour, is a small village consisting of about eighteen houses, and for- * For the most kind and ready assistance in communicating extracts from the registers of the several parishes with which our Author was connected;, we are deeply indebted to the Rev. John Chambers, the present Rector of Spernall. INTliODUCTION. VU merly belonged to the Earls of Warwick of the Norman line ; but these, by purchase and descent, &c. had come into the possession of the Throkmor- tons. The church, dedicated to St. Leonard, was formerly a chapel to Coughton.' At this period he seems still to have retained the living of Alcester, which he appears to have va- cated early in 1675. On the 20th of May of that year he left Spernall, for his first voyage ; and it is probable that his son Henry Teonge, of Christ Col- lege, Cambridge, who appears, by the Cambridge Graduate Book, to have taken his degree of B. A. in 1673, officiated at Spernall in the absence of its rector. His son was vicar of Coughton, an adjoining parish, from 1675 to 1683. The minute dates of our Chaplain's Diary enable us to fill up the outline of his life from 1675 to 1679. His first voyage occupied from the 20th of May, 1675, to the 17th of November, 1676. On his return to England, he stayed in London about three quarters of a year. About June 1677 he returned to SpernaU. Unhappily, the original cause of his absence from the proper sphere of his duties appears to have remained in full force at the period of his return. He says, " Though I was glad to see my X INTRODUCTION. His life of enterprise, and wandering, and poverty, though not unmixed with enjoyment, was at length closed on the 21st of March, 1690. It is probable that his age must then have been between 70 and 80. He died and was buried at Spernall ; but there is no monument whatever now existing to his memory. Of the character of our worthy Chaplain it is un- necessary to say much. Its peculiar features may be very easily collected from the following Diary. Writing as he did, without any sort of disguise, he exhibits himself, not, indeed, as possessing any very constant sense of religious obUgation, but, considering the laxity of the morals of the period in which he lived, and the society in which he moved, as afford- ing a very respectable specimen of a sea-chaplain of that aera. — He enjoys his punch and his claret, and he revels in the most luxurious description of the good cheer by which he was occasionally sur- rounded: but he appears to have been constant in the observance of the offices of his calling ; and on one occasion he exhibits a very spirited and commendable jealousy of any interference with his professional duties. His mind appears to have been remarkably acute and vigorous. He dili- gently observes whatever is new and curious, and brings to the subject a considerable share of book- INTRODUCTION. XI learning, sometimes, indeed, inaccurate and ill-di- gested, and frequently mixed up with a very sin- gular portion of superstition, but altogether afford- ing abundant evidence of his talents and acquire- ments. His poetical compositions are often very far above those of " the mob of gentlemen who write with ease ;" and some of his ballads, making allowance for the bad taste of his age, — the Chlorises and the Amyn- tas, the Phyllises and the Amaryllises, are in some respects worthy of taking their place amongst the standard compositions of this description. Upon the whole, his Diary is any thing but dull, and leaves upon us the impression of a pleasant gossiping with a quaint and witty companion, relating in a natural style some very singular adventures, and exhibiting a variety of new and curious particulars of an inte- resting and remarkable state of society. The first voyage of our Chaplain has a particular interest, as detailing the proceedings by which Eng- land was obliged to chastise the pirates of the Mediterranean a hundred and fifty years ago. In many respects, the narrative of Teonge is more va- luable as connected with the expedition of Sir John Narborough against the Barbary States, than any regular historical account. To afford, however, points XU INTRODUCTION. of connexion and comparison, we republish the following narrative of the expedition against Tri- poli, from the life of Sir John Narborough, in Campbell's Lives of the Admirals, and in Charnock's Biographia Navalis. " The Corsairs of Tripoli having for some time committed great outrages on the English trade, Sir John Narborough was seut, in the latter end of the year 1674, to reduce them to reason. The 14th of January following, Sir John came before the place ; and having blocked up the port in the night, so that no ship could go in or come out, he manned all his boats, and sent them under the command of Lieutenant Shovel, afterwards Sir Cloudesley, the famous admiral, into the har- bour, where he seized the guard-ship, and after- wards burnt the following vessels, which were all that lay at that time in the harbour ; viz. the White Eagle Crowned, a fifty gun ship ; the Looking-glass, which carried thirty-six ; the Santa Clara, of twenty - four ; and a French vessel of twenty : after which he safely returned to the fleet, without the loss of a single man. This extraordinary action struck the Tripolines with amazement, and made them in- stantly sue for peace ; which, however, did not im- INTRODUCTION. XUl mediately take place, because they absolutely refused to make good the losses sustained by the Eng- lish. Sir John thereupon cannonaded the town ; and, finding that ineffectual, landed a body of men about twenty leagues thence, and burnt a vast ma- gazine of timber which was to have served for the building of ships. When all this failed of reducing these people, Sir John sailed to Malta ; and after remaining there for some time, returned suddenly upon the enemy, and distressed them so much that they were glad to submit to a peace on the terms prescribed. However, soon after the conclusion of this treaty, some of their Corsairs, returning into port, not only expressed a great dislike thereto, but actually deposed the Dey for making it ; and, without any regard thereto, began to take all the English ships as before. Sir John, remaining still in the Mediterranean, and having immediate notice of what passed, suddenly appeared with eight frigates before Tripoli, and began with such violence to batter the place, that the inhabitants were glad once more to renew the peace, and deliver up the authors to condign punishment." " On the 18th of October, 1674, he was appointed commander in chief of a squadron sent to the Me- XIV INTRODUCTION. diterranean for the purpose of overawing the Tripo- line and other piratical States, who began about this time to commit depredations and disturb our com- merce. He had, as was customary, the privilege allowed him of wearing the Union Flag at his main-top-mast head, still continuing on board the Henrietta. In the month of April, 1675, his com- plaints to the Tripoline Government commenced ; these not being redressed, he proceeded to block up the ports. On the 10th of July following, he had the good fortune to drive on shore and burn one of their capital ships, which had been their rear-ad- miral, and carried thirty guns. In the course of a few days he destroyed two other vessels of in- ferior note. On the 31st of August the attack of a Saitee, which was working into Tripoh, brought on an action, equal in point of spirit to one which, from its consequence, might have more attracted the notice of the world. The frigates stationed immedi- ately off the port not being able to get up with her. Sir John manned the boats of the squadron, and got under way with his larger ships in support of them. The boats succeeded in driving the Saitee on shore, and came to anchor near her, in order to prevent the enemy from getting her off in the morning. The INTRODUCTION. XV Tripolines, to counteract their attack, manned three galleys and a brigantine, which were at that time in the harbour. On the approach of these the boats were obliged to retire on board the frigates * In the morning the galleys and brigantine were discover- ed towing the Saitee towards Tripoli. Sir John Narborough weighed anchor, and standing in shore with the rest of the ships under his command, suc- ceeded in cutting off the galleys from the port. One of them being forced on shore near Tajura, was set on fire by the Turks themselves ; the others, flying to the eastward, were driven on shore by the Newcastle. The boats having been twice repelled by the Moorish soldiers, who put off from the shore to defend them. Sir John Narborough went in his barge to en- courage his people on the third attack, which was successful. The Dey, intimidated by an attack so undaunted, and which presaged but little security to any of his vessels in a similiar situation, began now to make serious overtures for peace. On the 14th of January, a still more formidable and decisive attack was made on the Tripoline shipping, by the boats of the squadron under the command of Lieu- tenant, afterwards Sir Cloudesley Shovel." * This affair is noticed by the Chaplain, in his Diary, p. 62. XVI INTRODUCTION. " This exploit, seconded by the destruction and capture of some other vessels and stores, made the Tripolines stiU more earnest in their application for peace. They persisted as yet, however, in refusing to make such satisfaction as was deemed neces- sary for the injury that had actually been com- mitted by their Corsairs ; and Sir John was peremptory in resisting all overtures of peace to which this indemnification was not a preliminary article. In the month of February, Sir John, who had removed his flag into the Hampshire, being on a cruise to the eastward of Tripoly, with only one frigate in company, fell in with four of the principal ships of war, which, after the loss the Tripolines had sustained, were now left them. An action com- menced ; and after some hours' continuance, with the greatest spirit on both sides, the Corsairs, having nearly six hundred of their people killed and wounded, fled, with aU the sail they could carry, for Tripoly, which they were fortunate enough to reach. These accumulated and repeated defeats and losses at length disposed the Dey to listen to Sir John's demands ; so that a treaty of peace was concluded between them on the 5th of March, by which the Tripoline Government agreed to release INTRODUCTION. XVll all the English captives in their possession, to pay fourscore thousand dollars, as a reparation for the violence they had committed, and to grant the EngHsh many other honourable and valuable pri- vileges, which no other nation had ever before possessed or obtained. This contest being thus successfully terminated, Sir John was preparing to return to Europe, when an accident happened which compelled his longer continuance on the station." " The people, irritated at the conduct of the Dey, who was charged as having been the cause of the late war, and what they called an ignominious peace, compelled him to save his life by a very expeditious flight ; and Sir John, knowing the treacherous disposition of his new-made friends, thought it prudent to get the treaty ratified by the new Dey and the rest of the officers of the Govern- ment. This step was effected through the terror of an impending cannonade, and with an additional Article, highly flattering to the consequence of the English, and which appeared to promise a longer continuance of peace than they had for some time past experienced. This expedition having been b XVlll INTRODUCTION. thus brought to a happy issue. Sir John returned to Europe in 1677." It may be proper to add, that the notes illus- trative of this Diary have been collected with con- siderable industry from a variety of sources ; in some instances from unprinted authorities, in others from books of ordinary reference. In the biogra- phical part we are under extensive obligations to Charnock's Biographia Navalis. THE DIARY OF HENRY TEONGE, ^ ~ ■ .: ^E^% jij^^A f.^-^/Ij .e..^^^ /.^^, ^pjr^i L^tT) ^^.^ ^^ o^^Q^. v^«jL.% )-^«^ Alit^ Ai..C<> - -fn.jtL^^ c^l^JA .^ Jj^fxo /.^(-^n..^ i ^ ^^/^; ^^^ ^-^^ ,,,^ -^^ ^/T^/-- a 4;^ f- ^ ^^ is ^ 1/ ^^^ fid s c^ t,^ V. "^\ V ^ fyre- On the boome on the same, for Capt. of the Homer. J ships. On the ensigne staffe, for Capt. of the Wivenoe. "WTien any of these signes are put abroade by his Majesty's shipp Henrietta, the Commaunder is desyred to com to mee forth ^vith : if he be sick, then to send his lieutenant, or next officer. If by fowle weather wee seperate and can keepe the sea : before Trypoly is the place of meeting againe. But in case of any ine^-itable distres befalls any on, that they can not keepe this sea, then Malta is appoynted for fitting and meeting againe; where orders will be lodged for their dyrections. And so God dyrect us! Given under my hand, on board his Majesty's shipp the Henrietta, at sea before Trypoly, Aug. 12, 1675. John Norbkough. 16 This mom (as wee ly at anchor) 4 slayes ventered to swim from the shoare to om' sliipps, to make their escapes ; wherof on of them was oyertaken by a Trypoly boate, and canyed back to be miserably tor- tm-ed. The other 3 cam on board us ; on of them, ahnost dead, being taken up by the Admirall's boate : of the Portland; and in 1673 was appointed by Charles II. (who, after the passing of the Test Act, and consequent retire- ment of the Duke of York, had assumed the management of the Xa-^T" himself) Captain of the Roebuck, and does not appear to have received any subsequent appointment. AUGUST 1675. 61 the other twoe were tooke up by our boate. On of them had got a peice of an olde raile, and a goate skinn, which he had tyed together at boath ends, and blowed it full of wind, and made it fast to the olde raile : with that engine they cam safe on board. Two of them were Greeks, and the other a French man. This evening the wind being high wee wey, and stand farther off to sea. 1 7 The sea is very turbulent, in so much that our ship 18 had almost fallen foule on one of our companions, and many of our men are sea-sick. Wee stand 19 eastward all day, and back againe in the evening. And after the same rate wee are crusing toe and froe east from Trypoly till 20 This evening wee com to our fleete againe, nothing haveing beene done all this while ; and wee all com to an anchor within shott of the walls, our ship lying nearest the walls, within pistoll shott= 21 This moniing very early our pinnace chased 5 of the Trypolees to the mouth of their harbour ; yet they did not fyre a gunn. In the evening our ship changd her birth, and anchord on the west syd of the towne ; and drink to our friends in Florence and Syracosa wine. (22) This mom by on of the clock our pinnace and 3 more went a crusing ; and in a froHck Sir John him- selfe, with those that were in the boats, went all upon the Turks shoare, and there displayd the Eng- lish coulors, and cam on board againe. Severall shotts were made on boath syds, at a great distance. I AUGUST 1675. 62 preacht a sermon this day : text, Exod. viii. 1 . And to distinguish this day from the rest, as also to vex the Turks, our ships are all Md with pendents. 23 Wee are still at anchor, but change our birth now and then. The Trypolees are busy in making nue fortifications. 2 more slaves swim to us to day. And I went on board our Admirall on purpose to see my bro. Mr. Franklen ; where Sir John himselfe bad mee very welcom, and used mee very civily. 24 This morn the Sattee returnes to us with som ne- cessary s from Malta. This day wee chased a gallee of 38 oares many leages : not finding her to be a prize, wee only secured the Captaine and the Master for farther tryall. 25 And this morning wee sent them to their vessell againe ; but the Tripolees would give her no releife at all. I drank Mall Walker's bottell. 26 We are in our old posture. The Dartmouth and Swallow goe for Malta. 27 Our ship alone is ordered to cruse westward from Trypoly. 28 Towards evening the last night wee discover a vessell belonging to the Trypolees thrust betweene 2 - rocks, and many Moores lying behind the rocks to guard her : at which wee made severall great shott ; but the evening coming suddenly on, caused us to stand off; till, in the morning early, haveing the Roe- Buck, a small ship com to us, which could goe much nearer the rocks then wee, wee haveing beaten off the Turks, send in our pinnace and long boate, and pull theire vessell in peices, and carry away as much AUGUST 1675. 63 as wee could to burne for our use. And towards evening, wee being bound to cruse westward, drinke to our friends in a lemonade. A RELATION OF THIS CUMBATE I Cotnposed (foi- want of better imployment) before Trypoly, Aug.'M, 1675. No noble acts of Hector I Nor Priamus doe sing ; But joyful! newes from Trypoly To England I do bring. An English frigott trim and tyte, Crusing with merry glee^ Well furnished with men of might An hundred fifty three. And five and twenty gunns she had Well mounted on each syd ; Which, when they once began to roare. The Turks could not abide. Upon the seven and twenteth day Of August seventy five. That man was wise that thus could say — This day II be alive. Our fleete wee leave j alonge wee sayle The coasts of Barbary, Not far from shoare with pleasant gale Westward from Trypoly. A prize ! a prize ! our Captaine cryes, A prize I surely see ; Beyond those rocks a vessell lyes. Belongs to Trypolee. And now with mee^, my merry harts. Your courage forth advance. And shew yourselves brave English sparks. What ever be our chance. AUGUST 1675. 64 Then in wee make neare to the shoare. Our great shott wee lett flye ; The thunder of our cannons roare Farther then Trypolye. The country round the alarm tooke^ And suddenly cam in ; And numbers great of horse and foote Upon the sands were seene : Whoe well requite our courtesy, And, like splenettick men. For every bullet wee let fly They freely sent us ten. Our English valiantly abide. No feares discourage them. All though the Turkish rocks doe hide Their vessell and their men. You merry mincing sea men's wives. That sit at home secure, Nere thinking of your husbands* lives. What they on seas endure; Lament, lament with dolefull cheare. Whilst so much time is left. For many of your husbands deare Are of their lives bereft. Pinnace and long boat now well mand Doe bouldly venter in. Twice forceing neare the rocks and sand. And twice forct back agen. Long lasted this sam cruell fight. Which ran with blooddy streames Untill the sun, that western light. With drew his glorious beames : Which gave the Turks that liberty To carry off their cargoe ; Som say twas full of wheate and rye, And potts of rich potargo. AUGUST 1675. ^5 No sooner did the morne break forth But wee renew the theame. And fall upon the Turks as with Gholya's weaver's beame. Our greate gunns and our musketteares. And our petarreroes humming. The bulletts flew about their eares — They thought the Devill was coming Then soone wee force those craggy rock With Turkish blood all drunk ; Wheras wee find, with sturdy knocks. Their famous vessell sunk. Enraged then (with out delay) That wee had lost our hopes. Wee haule up and wee carry away ■ The decks, the mast, the ropes. The Turks they tooke it in greate snutf. And sorely were offended ; But wee did carry off their stuff. And so the battell ended. God blesse King Charles ; the Duke of York ; The royall family ; From Turks and Jewes that eate no porke Good Lord deliver me. (29) The last night the sea was very troublesoni;, but somthing more cahne this morning ; and wee are on the maine ; no land is to be seene. As we sayled, a vessell belonging to Trypoly, thinking that wee had discovered her, ran her selfe a shoare, and splitt her selfe all in peices, as wee were credibly informed. 30 Now wee are at Trypoly Vicha, as they call it ; the place where ould Trypoly did stand formerly, 36 ^ This city was originally built by the Romans ; it was after- wards taken by the Vandals, and destroyed in the 13th century F SEPTEMBER 1675. 66 but was destroyd by the Turkes, whose pollicy it is to suffer but on greate towne or garrison in a coun- try, in which themselves will inhabite. And heare about wee are crusing till finding no prize at all ; Sept. 3 This morning wee com againe before Trypoly, and see our 4 ships (for wee had no more there then) makeing up towards us. And Sir John's pinnace go- ing very neare the shoare, was shott at by som of the Moores. He (discovering where they lay, behind a small rise like a wind-mill hill) sent 2 of his men to rouse them, and commanded his men in his boate to present : and as soone as the 2 English men cam neare them, the Turks ran ; but the English fyred after them, and killd 3 in the place. 4 Now our ship is againe where wee had the combate a weeke since. 4 Greeks com on board us from the Trypoly prize, or sattee. Wee end the day and weeke according to our oulde custom. (5) Wee are in our station, viz. on the west of Try- poly, sayling toe and froe, but can not see on of our ' fleete. I preacht a sermon ; text, Exod. viii. v. 2. 6 And this trade wee drive, seeing no ship till by the Kalif Omar 11., who determining to extirpate the Christian faith from Syria and Palestine, entered Syria with a large army, and besieged Tripolis, then in the possession of the Crusaders. Having become master of the city on the 9th of April, 1289, he put nearly the whole of the inhabitants, with the garrison, to the sword, and afterwards razed it to the ground, leaving a strong garrison in the castle of Nelesene, for the purpose of preventing its being rebuilt. Since this period it has not recovered its im- portance, and has long since gone to ruin.— Moore's History of the Turks, SEPTEMBER 1675. 67 7 This inorne by 7 a clock wee discover som of our fleete agaiiie. 8 Now about seven of the clock two lusty shipps are coming out of the harbour of Trypoly in the sight of all our fleete. Every on makes ready to fight them ; but immediatly there fell a thick mist be- tween them and us, that wee could not see them just when they cam out. They had also a fresh gale, and wee scarce so much wind as would stur a ship. Two of our ships that were crusing eastward did almost meete them, and on of them, viz. the Dart^ mouth, made som shott at them, but all in vaine, for they clearly out sayled us all ; in so much, that by 3 of the clock they had ran us all quite out of sight. 9 Wee ly east from the towne, and are in hops som of our shipps that com from Malta may meete them. They were the prime saykes. 1 Wee are still in our station ; and have rubbd our ship, to sayle better against more of them com out ; for wee see more of them preparing. And the reason was this (as heard afterwards) : for when Sir John went on shoare himselfe, on of his men ran from him to the Turks, and told them that wee did ex- pect som fyre-shipps to com to us every day ; which they were much afrayd of, and that forct them out. 1 1 Wee expected, but non cam out this last night. Wee drink wine, &c, (12) The councell of warr yesterday was concirning the Successe's going for England, being no longer able to abide the sea. And our ship and the Dartmouth f2 SEPTEMBER 1675. 68 are ordered to follow the 2 Turks which brake out from us, and receive provision out of the Successe for that purpose ; and were say ling forwards, but were commanded back. I preacht a sermon ; Exod. viii. 2. 13 A hal-gaUy from larbee cam in to us nolens volens, pretending to be bound for the Levant, and intended only to water at Trypoly ; but our Admirall secures her for the present. 14 The Successe takes leave, and is going for Eng- land ; but is presently commanded back ; for wee sup- pose the Trypolees are coming out, and their Mara- botts make foggs for that purpose. Two of them gott out the last night, and are gon. The Dragon is com to us from Malta. And the Successe gon for England ; the Sattee accompanying her to Malta, and to bring us back fresh water. 15 This morning our Admirall, and our Assistance, and the Eoe-Buck (to vew what shipping was yet in their harbour) cam very neare " to their new fort. They fyred on gunn at the Admirall's ship ; and he ^ gave them on also, and no more. No hurt of eyther syd done. 1 6 The result of yesterday's consultation was concirn- ing the safty of our merchants ; especially consider- ing that 4 stout ships that wee knew of were broken out of Trypoly. Ther fore our Admirall strips him- self to his shirt ; viz, he stays before the towne only with 3 shipps more (till the rest of our shiping com to him, whose so longe delay hath been extreamly prejuditiall to the designe), viz. the Newcastle, SwaUow, Roe-buck ; and commands the Dragon, SEPTEMBER 1675. 69 Assistance, Dartmouth to the Arches to persue the Turks. There wee are to part ; and they 2 for Smerna, and our ship for Scanderoond. Our Cap- taine's absence from the small fleete left behinde being much lamented ; but non so fitt for such a dangerous voyage as he. About 2 in the morning wee stand east, and bid adue. At 1 1 wee have a great shower of raine : wee had non since wee were of the Bay of Biskay till this day. This morn wee bid adue to Trypoly, Whoe rather like our roome then company. But have you seene the gentle turtle-dove. How shee laments the absence of her love ? Or have you seene the glorious morning sunn Tryumphing joyfully his course to runn ? So stands our fleete, foure mournfull Heroclites — viz. Our Admirall and those his worthy wites. But the Assistance;, Dragon, Dartmouth, make A squadron stout, and to the Arches take Their course with joy (like Rome's Trium-viri), Not feareing all the force of Trypoly. Our Captaine's presence (like the morning sunn) Makes us rejoyce — his absence strikes them dumb. Thus Israel's pillar, thus Epyrus* spring To us gives light — to them doth darknes bring. 17 The wind being very small, wee stand north east, and make way very slowly. 18 The like this day too. But wee end the day as before, &c. (19) No wind. I preacht a sermon ; Exod. viii. 2. A small gale now. SEPTEMBER 1675. 70 20-24 Calmed from this day till 24, when wee have a gale. 25 This morning wee com to the ilands of Zante on the starbard, and Cefalonee on the larboard syde ; the last wherof is exceeding high land : but the wind will not let us com in as yet. These ilands are boath under the Venetians, and are the next land to the Turkes, whoe are but just crosse the water, which is but few leages over. These are not held by the Venetians from the Turkes by any strength, (though at Zante there is a stronge castle,) but by a yearly stipend or present payd to the Turke. These islands are very famous for cur- rens, of which there is greate plenty ; as also of oyle-olive, but especially at Zante, where their oyle is kept in weUs many fathoms in the rocks, and is in them candid as it will be here in a jarr or botteU. On the poynt of the hill or highest part of Cefalonee, there lay a white cloude all the day longe, and the topp of the hill appeared much higher over the cloud, which a man that had not scene it would not beleive. The sam I saw at Pantalarya, and in many other places, the tops of the hills higher then the clouds. Before 10 at night wee com to an anchor under the castle at Zante ; where newes was suddenly brought to us on board, that the 4 Trypo- lees whom wee pursued were gon by towards the Arches 3 days before. Wee drink to our frinds in good rubola. (26) The last night's newes causeth our stay here to be very short ; all our time is spent in preparing our SEPTEMBER 1675. 71 cask for fresh-water, and for beverage -wine. No time for prayers to day. 5 Venetians men of warr cam in this morning, and told us that they saw the 4 Trypolees in the Arches. Wee fetch in fresh water all night. 27 AVee wey anchor at 9, and stay a while for our barges coming from shoare ; and then wee leave Zante somwhat unwillingly. The harbour of Zante (if I may caU it so) lyes much like a horse-shooe, encompassed on boath syds or hemd in with rockey mountaines, excepting the toe of it, where stand on that flatt 10 wind-mills at least. On the westerne syd stands the towne, from the hill to the water syde ; and part of it as it were climbing up the hiU, though it be very steepe. The castle stands on the very top of the hill, on the north west syd ; haveing a very strong wall about it, of greate compasse, and 7 wind mills before it towards the towne, som of them haveing 8 sayles. The towne is but little ; the howses very low, in regard of the earthquakes, which much anoy them, and very often. The inhabitants are Greeks for the most part : they have severall pretty fashons, but especially at their wedding. When a younge wo- man is to be marryed there are chosen two men to be her leaders to the church, whoe may have beene distrusted to be more famihar with her then they should have beene ; and these are then to be her secretarys, and of cabinet counsell, being such as will by no meanes be any way dishonnest ; for tis counted the greatest crime in the world to forfett SEPTEMBER 1675. 72 theyr trust, or to be any way dishonest then, what ever of famiharity was betweene them before. Here are store of currens and pome cytterens, and som few lemons and oringes ; excellent strong wines, boath white and redd. ^^ ^^ We find the following account of Zante in the Travels of Sandys, published in 1621, which strikingly corroborates the brief relation of our author : — " The island contains in circumference not more than sixty miles, and is on the south and south-east sides rocky and moun- tainous, but plain and level in the midst, and unspeakably fruit- ful, producing the best oil in the world, and excellent strong wines, both white and red, which they call Ribolla : but the chief riches thereof consisteth in currans, which draweth hither much traffic, especially from England and Holland. They sow little ■ corn, as employing their ground to better advantage in the growth of the before-named fruit : for which neglect they sometimes suf- fer, being ready to starve when the weather continueth tem- pestuous for any season, and they cannot fetch their provision which they have of flesh and corn from Morea, being ten leagues distant. They have salt-pits of their own, and plenty of fresh water ; but little or no wood now, though celebrated for the abundance thereof formerly. ^' The inhabitants are in general Grecians ; in habit imitating . the Italians, but transcending them in their revenges, and far less civil, making infinitely more conscience to keep a fast than commit a murther. " It is a custom among them to invite certain men unto their marriages, whom they call compeers. Every one of these do be- stow a ring, which the priest doth put upon the bride and bride- groom's fingers, interchangeably shifting them, and so he doth the garlands of their heads. Of these they are never jealous (an abuse in that kind being reputed as detestable a crime as if committed by a natural brother) ; so that they lightly choose those for their compeers that have been formerly suspected too familiar. The bridegroom entering the church, sticks his dagger into the door, — a ceremony held available against enchantments; for here it is a common practice to bewitch them, so that they are rendered im- potent with their wives until the charm be burnt or in this way destroyed." SEPTEMBE*R 1675. 73 A Relation qfsmn Passages happening when wee were at Zante ; where wee tryd which wine was the best ; viz. of that which wee had at Malta, or that which wee found then at Zante. Composed September 28. I. Two greate commanders at this place fell out^, A Malta-gallant and a Graecian stout ; True Trojanes boath, equall for birth and valour. Small differance in habit or in colour ; Ambitious only which should have the honor To fight the Turks under the English bannor. II. Brave Syracoosa, Malta's warrlike knight, Displayes his bloody flag much like a wite Of peareles courage, (drawing forth his forces. Whose colours all were red, boath foot and horses.) Thus Hector once, that noble sonn of Priam, Dar'd out the Graecian ladds, only to try'um. III. Rubella, bould as ere was Alexander, At this place was the merry Greeks' commander ; Like a stout champion and a man of might Setts up his standard, which was red and white. Thus Ajax with Ulisses had a fray Which should Achilles' armour bare away. IV. Whilst these two combitants with large pretenses Doe praise, and boast, and brag their excellences. Our English squadron, being much in wroth, Vow'd by St. George to be reveng'd on boath. Thus Jove enrag'd, with thunder bolts controld The dareing gyants, 'cause they were so bold. V. Th' Assistance, Dragon, Dartmouth, all consent As firm as by an act of Parliament ; And quickly too, because they were no starters. Surprised Syracoosa in his quarters : Whilst suddenly our gentry on the shoare Spar'd not to turne Rubella ore and ore. VI. But two to on is odds, and so wee found. For many of our men were run a ground : Som would have stole away, but could not stand ; Som'were a board, and could not gett to land ; SEPTEMBER 1675. 74 Som lost their feeling, and (twas straing to see't) They went as well uppon their hedds as feet. VII. Som would have fought, but lifting up their hands Scarce to their heads, fell backwards on the sands : On lost his hearing ; another could not see Which was his friend, or which his enemy : And haveing lost those sences which they had, They'whoopt and hoUowd as they had beene mad. VIII. Som by their friends were carryd to their hammocks. And bed-rid lay, with pains in syds and stomacks ; With fyery faces, and with akeing braine. Their hands all durt, their pulses beate amaine ; Which when the doctor did but touch, would spew Good Syracoosa and Rubola too. IX. Som talke, and swear, like men in frantick fitts. Whose vaine discource did much put-run their witts j Som were stroke dumb, not able to afford Their minds or meanings by a signe or word ; Som, loath to speake, made signes, whose silent speeches Shewd the diseas was sunk into their breeches : X. Som so outragious, that the corporall Was forc't to cloyster them in bilbows-hall ; Som ceas'd to th' main-mast, do their backs expose To th' nine-tayld catt, or cherriliccum's bloes ; Som ready to be duc't, som left a shoare. And many mischeifs I could tell you more. XI. The straingnes of their weapons, and their number, Causd us to loose the day, the feild, the plunder : The English us'd to iight with swords and gunnsj But here they met with barrells, butts and tunns. Boast now no more : you see what odds will doe?; Hector himselfe would never fight with two. ^® H. T. ^^ This parallel between the wines Rubella and Syracusa is sufficiently ingenious; and though the humour is somewhat gross, the description of the effects of drukenness is too natural not to be recognized as a faithful representation, which time has not changed. SEPTEMBER 1675. 75 28 This morning on of our men, viz. Skinner, a knowne coockould, for goeing on shoare without leave had his leggs tyd together, his hands tyd to a greate rope, and stood on the syd of the ship to be hoysted up to the yard arme, and from thence to dropp downe in to the water 3 times : ^^ but he lookeing so very pittifully, and also by the gentlmen's intreatys to the Captain e for him, who alleaged that he had injuiys enough already, as haveing a wife a whore and a schold to injure him at home, ergo had the more need to be pittyed abroade, was spared. Now wee are on the coasts of Sancta Maura or Maurea, so much commended by Sir Phillip Sydny for its fruitfiiUnes and plesant merrynes of the in- habitants, and were thence called merry Greeks. Tis pene insula, almost an iland, made by the Gulfe Lapantho, which runing betweene the Albanian shoare and Sta. Maura, doth divide it, and make an iland of it ; only tis Hnked by a neck of land 5 miles. This Gulfe of Lepantho was the place into the which the remainder of the Turkish fleete was once forced by the Venetians ; whoe, knowing that they had them in a pinfold out of which they could by no meanes returne, layd som vessells in the mouth of the Gulfe to keepe them in, and then pursued som other scat- tered gaily s. And when the Venetians cam up the- Lepantho the next day to cease on their pray, they found neyther man nor gaily, for that night the Turks had drawne their gallis over that neck of land, '' See Note 11, page 19. SEPTEMBER 1675. 76 and what they could not draw over they sunke in the place; and so secured all, by being now in the Arches, whither the Venetians could not com sud- denly, being 70 leages off at least. This Maura was the habitation of the merry Greeks, but now the Turkes have it ; and it lys the next to the Christian shoare, viz. Zante and Cephalonee. Greece is bounden on the west with the Adriattick sea ; on the east by the Thracean sea ; on the south by the maine Mediterranean ; on the north by Hun- garia. And Grecia containeth Peloponesus, Achaia, Macedonia, Epyrus, and lUericum Peloponesus, now called Maura, or rather Morea, which is Sir Phillip Sydny's Arcadia. In the south parte of this country stpod Sparta and Lacidemon ; and Sparta and Athens were called the two edges of Greece, and were very often at warrs on with the other. Here stood the cytty of Corinth, called the key of Greece. At the end of Morea begineth Achaya, spreading north but to the hill Othris, but east and west much longer. These are the people which Virgill calls Achivi : and here stood Beotia and Athens, looking southward towards Maurea. In this part of Greece stood Pernassus, and Helicon ; Phocis, Thebes, and all that Livi calls Urbes AchcEorum. Epyrus lys west of Achaia, and lys narrow alonge the sea coasts, looking southwards on the ilands Conegra and Cephalonia. Here lived Olympas, the mother of Alexander the Greate. This was the king- dome of Pyrrus, and of Scanderbeg the greate SEPTEMBER 1675. 77 enemy of the Turkes, wlio tormented the Turkes more with a hand full of men, then others did with 10 times his number. Macedonia, the greatest part of Greece, Ijs east of it, and looking towards Asia Minor. This was the country so famous for PhiUip and Alexander his sonn, whoe conquered the whole world. Here stood the hill Athos, and Olympus, the citty of Philippi, Am- polonia, Amphipoles, Edessa, Pella, Thessalonica, Berea, and the whole country of Thessalia. From Grecia cam the first learning to the Romans : hence cam Homer, Hesiodus, Sophocles, Socrates, Plato, Aristotel; and the greate orators Demosthenes, Aeschines ; and all the mathematicks, excepting what cam from the Caldees and Egyptians. Thracia standeth on the north east part of Grecia : and here very neare the edge of the sea coast, very neare unto Asya, stands Byzantium, now Constanti- nople, because new built by Constantine the Greate. This was formerly the residence of the Emparour of Greece, but now it selfe and all Greece is in the do- minion of the Turkes. 29 But to returne to wheise I left. This day wee are stiU on the coasts of Morea, and almost at the poynt which leads into the Arches, and have a fresh gale. After 3 in the afternoone, over against Matapatan, wee part with the Dragon and Dartmouth, whoe are bound for Smyrna ; and our ship alone sayles un- dauntedly for Scanderoond, though wee doe abso- lutely conclude that about Candia wee shall meete with the 4 Trypoleenes. Wee salute them with 7 SEPTEMBER 1675. 78 gunns ; they answer with as many ; and wee stand south east and by south. Progressum Dens bene for- tunet! 30 A brave gale all night, which brought us this morn- ing neare Candia, to a small iland called Goza, and another a little more eastward, called Anti-Goza. More myrth at dinner this day then ever since wee cam on board. The wind blew very hard, and wee had to dinner a rump of Zante beife, a little salted and well rosted. When it was brought in to the cabin and set on the table, (that is, on the floore, for it could not stand on the table for the ship's tossing,) our Captaine sent for the Master, Mr. Fogg, and Mr. Davis, to dine with him selfe and my selfe, and the Leiuetenant, and the Pursor. And wee all sat closse round about the beife, som securing themselves from slurring by setting their feete against the table, which was fast tyd downe. The Leiuetenant set his feete against the bedd, and the Captaine set his back against a chayre which stood by the syd of the ship. . Severall tumbles wee had, wee and our plates, and our knives slurrd oft together. Our liquor was white rubola, admirable good. Wee had also a couple of fatt pullets ; and whilst wee were eating of them, a sea cam, and forced into the cabin through the chinks of a port hole, which by lookeing behind me I just discovered when the water was coming under mee. I soone got up, and no whitt wett ; but all the rest were well washed, and got up as fast as the could, and laughed on at the other. Wee dranke the King's and Duke's healths, and all our wives particularly; SEPTEMBEU 1675. 79 and cam out at 2 a clock, and were com as far as Sugar-lofe hill in Candia. Severall seas com over om* ship, and cause much myrth to see the water flee as high as the main-mast, and to wash as many as was under it. The western part of Candia is very high ground, and the eastern part low ; but the highest ground of aU is neare the middle of the iland, where tis as if you should — imponere Pelion Ossce; viz. on very high Sugar-lofe turret^ on the top of a longe and exceeding high mountaine, and therfore called Sugar-loafe hill ; which was full north from us at 4 a clock. A SONNET, Composed October the first, over against the East part of Candia, O ! Ginnee was a bony lasse. Which maks the world to woonder How ever it should com to passe That wee did part a sunder. The driven snow, the rose so rare. The glorious sunn above thee. Can not vdth my Ginnee compare, Shee was so woonderous lovely. Her- merry lookes, her forhead high. Her hayre like golden- wyer. Her hand and foote, her lipe or eye. Would set a saint on fyre. And for to give Ginnee her due, Thers no ill part about her ; The turtle-dove 's not halfe so true : Then whoe can live without her ? King Solomon, where ere he lay. Did nere imbrace a kinder : O ! why should Ginnee gang a way^ And I be left behind her ? OCTOBER 1675. 80 Then will I search each place and roome From London to Virginny, From Dover-peere to Scanderoone, But I will finde my Ginny. But Ginny 's turned back I feare^ When that I did not mind her ; Then back to England will I steare^ To see where I can find her. And haveing Ginnee once againe. If sheel doe her indeavour. The world shall never make us twaine — Weel live and dye together. H. T. Oct. 1 Wee are past Candia, but yet part of it is in our sight. Now wee put up our studding sayles, to make the more hast to Cyprus. 2 A fine gale still, but no sight or newes of the Try- polees. Wee doe this evening remember our friends in England in good rubola. (3) This morning wee discover 2 sayles a head of us. Wee vew them at a distance, and observe how they stand. They seemed not at all to make away from us ; which maks us absolutly beleive they were Turks ; which causeth us to prepare for a fight. Every man in the ship seemed to be very joyfull of an incounter, and accordingly wee make every thing ready. Our mayne yard and fore yard slung with chaines ; quarter deck armed ; every thing ready. They sturd not at all, but lay ready to receive us. Our Captaine commaunds to put out our ancient, jack, and pendent : — says he, We'el shew them what wee are : They did not so much as edge from us, but were in the sam mind to fight and as ready as were our selves. OCTOBER 1675. 81 They then seemed to open a little on from the other, as though they would fight us on on the on syd, and the other on the other syd of us. Wee with our trumpetts sounding and hayling them, steard our course dyrectly betweene them. Just at that instant wee discover them to be Maltees by their white crosse, and they know us to be English by our red crosse ; and being now com closse together, the first salutes us with 3 gunns, bulletts and all, and imme- diatly putts off his boate and coms on Jx)ard us ; whom wee also answer with 3 gunns. The other salutes us with 7, and wee returne 7 againe. Som of them com on board of us, and our Captaine maks them very welcom ; and because wee were made so welcom at Malta, wee spare them sum barrells of powder, which they wanted very much ; and so wee part, and keepe on our course. This day I hanselled my new cassake, but had no time for prayers. 4 This morning (haveing had a prosperous gale all night) wee are in sight of that famous iland of Cy- prus, once in the possession of the English; and a very plentifull iland, stored with good things. 5 At 2 of the clock wee com to an anchor in 20 fathom water, in the bay of Salyne, or Salamis, as Acts xiii. 5 ; where wee found on French shyp, and 4 sloops lying closse under their fortification. This is the very place where the Turks landed when they tooke Nicossia, and afterwards the whole iland. And this iland of Cyprus lyes in the farther- most part of the Mediterranean ; and hath on the east Soria, to which som authors say it was formerly G OCTOBER 1675. 82 joyned in terra Jir ma ; on the west Pamfilia ; on the south Egypt ; and on the north Carramania, called of olde Cyhcia. Tis 700 miles in compas, in length 280 miles, and in the broadest part not above 70 miles ovei*. Tis of a very good ayre, though som contradict it ; and produces almost all things belong- ing to humane life (as says Paulo Paruta) in greate abundance ; yea, though the 5th part of their ground be not tilled, and the on halfe of that too lys fallow every other yeare. Besyds corne in abundance, this iland yeelds store of excellent good wine boath white and red, sugar, cottons, saffron, capers ; salt pitts in abundance, and mines of the most precious mettalls. Here is found a silke-stone/^ (as they call it), much like to black-lead in shew, and is as heavy : scrape it, and you would thinke the scrapings of it were pure silke ; and if you ''" The Abbe Mariti, in his Travels through Cyprus^ Syria^ and Palestine, speaking of the village of Amianthus, in the island of Cyprus, which he describes as being a considerable town in the time of the Romans, says, the neighbouring country produced the stone asbestos, used for making a kind of incombustible cloth, in which the bodies of the European Emperors were burned ; and in a subsequent part of his narrative he states that there is a quarry of the stone Amianthus, or asbestos, near the village of Paleandros, which people are forbidden, under the penalty of a severe punishment, to carry away, and the place is surrounded with guards to enforce obedience to the restriction. " Incom- bustible cloth, it is said, has been made of it ; and fire, instead of changing, increases its whiteness. This fact, founded on the re- lation of Pliny and Dioscorides, is, in the opinion of the moderns, one of those errors so common in the philosophy of the ancients. The Greeks call this stone caristia, and some others, the cotton stone" ocTOBEii 1675. 83 put the scrapings of it into the flame of a candle, it will looke as red as the snufF it selfe of the candle ; but pull it out of the flame againe, and it returns to its 9wne colour againe, and is no whitt altered by the fyre. This I saw severall times. Here is also that rare thing called terr^a sigillata, got (with a greate deale of seremony) by opening on peculiar place in the earth, where it doth com up in on night's time, like that which dew-wormes throe up, and but on particular night in the whole yeare. Of this they take such a quantity as will last them on whole yeare, and then with as much seremony close up the earth againe. Of this the Grand Seniour is presented first with a greate share, and after that, som others of the greate ons ; and after, som for other country s.*^ ** Teonge must have been misinformed with respect to this earth as being a production of the island of Cyprus. Stalimene^, anciently LemnoS;, one other of the islands of the Archipelago^ is the place from whence it is procured; and in a short account of the island in Crutwell, we have the following description of the mode of taking it^ &c. which agrees with Teonge in every thing but its locality. " Stalimene has always been famed for a certain kind of earth or bole^ which is called from the place terra Lemnia, and from the seals or particular marks stamped upon it^, bears likewise the appellation of terra sigillata. It was dug up formerly with many religious ceremonies^ in all probability first introduced by the Venetians^ and consisting in this: viz. that the principal Turkish and Christian inhabitants of the island meet on the 6th of August, and on that day only, at a chapel called Sotira, half way between the village of Cochino and the mountain where the earth is found, and from thence proceed in procession to the top of the mountain, where Greek priests read the Liturgy : after which certain persons appointed for that purpose begin to dig, and as soon as they discover a vein of the desired earth, give no- g2 OCTOBER 1675. 84 So that, by reason of its plenty of pretious things, twas formerly called Macharia, Blessed.*^ Here is tice of it to the priests, who iiil small hair-bags with it, and de- liver these to the Turkish governor and other officers present. When they have taken up as much as they think proper, they fill up the place again, -and return back in procession as before. Some of the bags are sent to the Grand Signior, and the rest marked with his seal or with the words Tin Imachton. i. e. *^ the Sealed Earth,' and sold by the Sangiac or his deputies to the inhabitants and foreign merchants. The Sangiac must give an account to the Grand Signior's treasury of the money annually produced from it ; and the inhabitants are capitally punished if they keep this earth in their houses, or export, or in any wise trade in it, without his knowledge and permission." It is used for medicinal purposes, and was in high repute in the East. This is evidently the commodity alluded to by Teonge as being procured at Cyprus ; but as the various authors who have written fully of that island and its productions are totally silent upon the subject, it may be reasonably concluded that he had mistaken the name of the island producing this earth. Both Pocock and Mariti are minute in their account of the productions of Cyprus, — the latter particularly so, — and neither of them mention the terra sigillata. Pocock, in his account of Lemnos, speaks of the terra Lemnia or holy earth, which he compares to a sort of pipe-clay : he states that there are two sorts, rvhite and red, the latter being in most esteem. It is mentioned also by Walpole in his Tom- through the Archipelago, and by Busching in his Geography^ vol. ii. p. 148: — the latter states that " it is looked upon as an excellent medicine against poison, the bite of a serpent, and the dysentery." Crutwell's description seems to have been taken from Busching, whom it follows very closely. ^^ The Abbe Mariti says, " This island was formerly one of the richest and most fertile in the world, abounding with mines of gold, silver, copper, iron, marcasite, rock allum, and even eme- ralds ; but of these costly productions nothing now remains ex- cept the remembrance and the names of the places from whence they were procured. The present government fetters curiosity in this respect, and forbids every kind of research. No arts are OCTOBER 1675. 85 plenty of locust*^ and wild hony, which the inhabit- ants will carry about in a wooden platter, or tray, and profer you a peice on a knife as you vvalke the streets, not asking any thing for it : it looks almost like rozen, but doe but touch it and it melts. The poetts faine Venus to have beene borne here, and to delight to live here as in her nest ; therfore the Cy- prians built her a temple at Paphos, in honour of their goddesse. Tis credibly reported as a tradition among the Greekes that dwell on that iland, and much la- mented too, that of their silke stone (which I spake of before) the Cyprians did make an excellent sort of silke, which is not againe to be found in the now cultivated but such as are absolutely necessary^ or such as are incompatible with calm reflection and delicacy of sentiment. The w^ants of the inhabitants support also a few manufactories, the produce of which is scarcely adequate to the consumption. Every thing here has been subjected to the yoke of despotism ; every beauty has disappeared^ and a profound darkness broods over this region, once irradiated with the day-beams of civiliza- tion, and adorned with the most costly productions of art." ^^ The island is in fact greatly infested by these destructive insects, which fly over it in swarms, destroying every trace of vegetation wherever they happen to settle. The inhabitants fre- quently go in search of their eggs, which they destroy in vast quantities. Shaw, in his Travels through Barbary and the Levant, gives a very particular account of these insects, of which he saw several species from two to three inches in length. He also states that they are commonly eaten by the Arabs ; and that when sprinkled with salt and fried, they are not unlike to our fresh- water cray- fish. — Clark also, in noticing the locust, informs us that the Turks have not yet learned to eat that insect ; but that by the Arab it is boiled or roasted, and eaten with salt. OCTOBER 1675. 86 world, and did weave it there. But now that art i^ quite lost : for there was a time when that iland was so pestered with small venamous creaturs, much like our efts or neauts, that with the anoyance and their stinging of the people, as also by a sore disease, caused as it was thought by the noysom smell of those creatures, which breed innumerably, for want of the raine which had used to fall there, but then did not for a longe time together, that whole iland was depopulated, and lay so 30 yeares together, till a way was invented to kill those venamous creatures, which they did by abundance of catts, which were turned loose and becam wild, and bred very much, and fedd uppon those creatures. At that time the arte of raakeing silke of their silke-stone was lost, and never yet recovered.^* There is at this time excellent peices of silke of severall sorts woven there, as also the finest diaper, indeed of all sorts, for they have an excellent arte in the makeinge of those commodity s. "** The cultivation of silk is still an important branch of the commerce of Cyprus^ although the manufacture of it has been long since lost under the oppressive and destructive policy of the Turks. It is all prepared in the month of May, which is the time when it is procured from the cods of the silk-worm. The method of breeding the worms here is almost the same as that employed in Italy ; but it is not subject in Cyprus to those in- conveniences which arise from the variation of the atmosphere, the season at that period being always beautiful and favourable. The quality of the silk depends on the place where it is collect- ed ; the finest and whitest is that procured in the environs of Famagosta and Carpassia. The orange and sulphur-coloured is made in Cythera, or the villages beyond the northern mountains ; and that of a gold yellow colour is produced in the territories of OCTOBER 1675. 87 This iland was the seate of 9 kings formerly, and had in it 30 cittys, of which there still remaine many worthy memorables of their pristin grandetsa's, boath maretine and inland. In the yeare 1122 it was re- covered from the Sarazens by the Christians, and jo}Tied to the kingdom of Jherusalem ; till Richard the Fii'st, king of England, sould the seniority of it to the Knights Templars ; and by them twas sould to Guydo Lusignano, who was driven from Jherusalem to this iland, and was the first Latine Lord there, whose sonn succeeded him, and by permission from the Pope made it a kingdome ; where 1 2 kings reigned successive in peace (excepting only Fama- gosta, possessed by the Genoveses). At last it was given by the undoubt heyresse of it, Katharina Cor- naro,^" to the Commonwealth of Venice, whoe held it Paphos and the neighbouring country. That principally esteemed in Europe is the white^ with which a little of the orange and sulphur-coloured is sometimes mixed^ but in very small quantities, when it is exported to England^ Holland^ or France. Venice and Leghorn receive both without distinction; and though the white silk has the preference there^ as well as every where else, the merchants of those places are not so difficult to please as others. The Turks purchase the greater part of the orange- coloured silkj for M'hich they pay a piastre more, and send it to Cairo. The produce of the island, one year with another, is about 25,000 bags, each bag containing 300 pounds weight. ^^ Catherine Cornelia, or Cornaro, wife of James the Bastard King of Cyprus, and adopted daughter of Venice, upon the death of her husband (who bequeathed her to the protection of the Senate, the island being in a state of revolt) fled to \^enice in 1473, where she was honourably received, and in the Senate house, before the tribunal of the Duke Barbericus, laid down her crown and sceptre, and resigned her kingdom. The Venetians immediately sent a sufficient force to suppress the tumults and OCTOBER 1675. 88 till the yeare 1 572, at which time it was most bar- barously taken from them by Selino, the sonn of So- liman the great Tm4ce. 46 take possession of the island^ which remained in their hands until about the middle of the year 1570, when Mustapha Bey, a most vindictive persecutor of the Christians, was despatched by Soliman II. with AH Bassa and 20,000 men, besides a numerous fleet;, to wrest it from them. ^^ The following account of the conq^uest of Cyprus, abridged from Moore's History of the Turks^ may not be deemed wholly Uninteresting. In the beginning of May 1570, the Turks effected a landing almost without opposition at Salinse, about thirty miles from Nico- tia, the capital of the island. This city stood in a fine champagne country, and was about five miles in circumference, magnificently built. The Venetians had lately fortified it with new walls and thick rampiers, having also eleven bulwarks and three strong fortresses ; but at this period it was lamentably deficient in the means of resistance, Dandalus, a person totally unskilled in military affairs being Governor, and the whole force of the gar- rison not amounting to 8000 men. The Turkish army having approached the walls, summoned the city, but were refused ad- mittance : upon which batteries were raised, and a dreadful scene of carnage and destruction commenced. Insufficient as the garrison was for the defence of the place, the inhabitants con- tinued to hold out until the 9th of September, 1570; when, after performing prodigies of valour, the enemy being now in the very heart of the city, and scarcely a tenable position remaining un- occupied by them, Dandalus the Governor ofifered to surrender upon conditions ; but before an answer could be received from Mustapha, the gates of the monastery, where with some of the principal inhabitants he had fortified himself, were burst open by the Turkish soldiers, who put every one to the sword. This was the signal for a general slaughter, and scarce any were spared ,throughout the town. The most dreadful excesses were com- mitted, and the whole city was filled with the dead and dying ; 14,866 persons being slain on that day, including the whole of the garrison that had escaped death during the siege. OCTOBER 1675. 89 To coin to our voyage againe. As soone as wee cam to Saline Bay, our Leiuetenant and Pursor went to the shoare to by som beverage wine and som other things which wee wanted. The things were all made ready, but not suffered to com off till wee had payd anchorage ; which our Captaine denyd, and our goods Leaving a strong garrison in Nicotia^ JNIustapha now marched to besiege Famagusta^ sending before him^, for terror's sake, the head of Dandalus in a basket. This city stands at the east end of the island, between two promontories, and was about two miles in circumference. It was strongly fortified, but wanted sufficient force to defend it ; the garrison consisting only of 5200 men, commanded by Mark Antony Bragadine, a noble Venetian. It was not until after a close siege of seventy days, the harbour being blocked up, great part of the walls demolished, nearly the whole city in ruins, and more than half the garrison slain, that the place was surrendered upon articles, by which the inhabitants were to enjoy their lives, liberty, and goods, with the free exer- cise of the Christian religion; the Governor, Captains, and soldiers to depart safely ; and the Turks to conduct them to Crete, with victual and shipping. These conditions being put in writing and confirmed by the oath of the victorious Bassa, the Governor, attended by some distinguished officers and soldiers, came into the Turkish camp to deliver the keys of the city according to the articles. Upon entering the pavilion of the Bassa they were re- quired to deliver up their arms, which they complied with ; and being admitted to his presence, he at first entertained them courteously, extolling their valour : at length, after a long dis- course, he complained that some of his men, taken at the siege, had been against all reason and order slain ; which the Governor vehemently denying, he started up as in a rage, urging the fact, and, commanding the whole party to be bound, had them in- stantly led forth to death in sight of the army. This in- famous command was executed, they having been previously subjected to the most inhuman tortures. Of the meaner sort of inhabitants, some were slain, some chained to the galleys, and the rest carried into bondage. Of the 300 soldiers who accom- panied the Governor to the Turkish camp, but one escaped. OCTOBER J675. 90 were kept on shoare. This evening was very much thunder and lightening, and abundance of raine ; and non had fallen there of 7 monts before. After the raine there cam a sweete smell from shoare, as of new cut herbs or hay, which did prove very ominous, for som of our men fell sick that very night ; and that weeke wee had 100 at least downe at once, but not on dyed. 6 Wee thought our things would have bene sent off this morning ; but being denyd, wee are under sayle at 4 for Scanderoond. 7 A strong north east wind cleane contrary to our course. 8 And so it continues, for by it wee are driven neare Egipt, and on the coasts of the land of Canaan, which at first sight wee tooke to be Sorya. Now wee passe by neare Joppa, and in sight of Mount Le- 9 banon. And now wee are neare the Bay of Antioch, but wee can not see the cytty because the Bay is so deepe. Above halfe of our men are fallen desperatly sick, but non dye. (10) A contrary wind againe drives us back. Here begins the mountaine Taurus, that runns from hence to the East Indys, and is divid^ed but twice all that longe way. Now wee are closse under Cape Porcus, or Hogg-hill: where I preacht a sermon; Exod. viii. 3. As wee passed by Joppa, wee saw the Mount Carmel with ease. 1 1 We have at the last passed by Cape Porcos, and are got into the great bay, the bottom or farther- 12 most part of the Mediterranean ; but that wind that OCTOBER 1675. 91 is, is against us. Here, by reason of the reflexion 13 from the hills, wee are so hott that (we) can hardly endure our cloaths on our backs ; yet the topps of som of the hills are covered with snow. 14 And here wee ly becalmed all this while, and very hott ; and now wee tow in our ship, for wee can gett her in no other way. And at 4 in the afternoone wee com to an anchor in Scanderoond Roade;^^ where wee find 3 ships at anchor. The Syppio, whoe saluts us with 5 gunns, wee returne 3 ; she thanks us with on more. The William and Thomas gave us 3 gunns ; wee answered with on. The 3d was a Venetian, and gave us 7 gunns ; and wee returned 5. Then went our Leiuetenant and Pursor on shoare, to see what provision or liquor was to be gott. The Consull, Mr. Low, cam on board to welcom us, and brought foules and herbs to us. At his going off wee gave him 5 gunns, and our trumpetts sounding — Mayds, where are your harts, &c. 1 5 Wee are busy in mending our ship ; and in the *'' Scanderoon is situated at the extremity of the Mediterr ranean, and is the port of Aleppo, from whence it is distant 28 or 30 leagues. It is, properly speaking, nothing more than a village without walls, in which the tombs are more numerous than the houses; and entirely owes the duration of its existence to the fine road which it commands, being the only one in all Syria where vessels can anchor on a solid bottom without chafing their cables. It is, however, infested during winter by a peculiar wind, called by the French sailors la Raguier, which rushing from the adjacent mountains, frequently obliges ships to drag their anchors for several leagues. Scanderoon has always been noted as a sickly place, occasioned by the stagnant waters and mephitic exhalations from the marshes which lay around it. — Morgans Algiers. ocTOBEU 1675. 92 afternoone wee chainge our byrth for our better con- veniency som what nearer the shoare. 1 6 Wee fetch ballace. And so wee doe this day, and at night drinke healths to our friends in England. (17) A sermon ; Jerem. xvii. 10. 18 Empty caske carryd on shoare to be mended and sweetened. 19 I went a shoare, and was kindly entertayned by 20 the Consull, Mr. Lowe, and Mr. Betten. This day 21 about 100 of our men goe a woodding; but they had leave first given them from the Gaw of Scan- deroond. 22 No thing done but goeing too and froe to shoare and from shoare. But on Wensday last fell much raine, with thunder and lightening ; and wee all saw severall spouts, boath drawn up from the sea, and also fauU in to the sea again e. But especially wee saw on great spout drawne up out of the bay, and carryd to land ; and wee saw it breake and fall on the syd of a hill, makeing to our sight a very greate smoake. ' It fell neare the house of a servant to the Caddee, and drive it downe, and also carryed it and all in it away, with him selfe, his wife, and 2 children. The woman was this day found at Asshen Poynt, (not above a leage from us,) beaten all in peices. 23 Wee cleave, and cutt, and saw wood ; and drink healths to our wives and friends in England in good racckee. This evening was an unhappy chance. Our long-boate being fetching water all day, at the even- ing as they were coming off fyred a muskett, (as the crue say,) only to light a match. Three Turks were OCTOBER 1675. 93 on the shoare, and the buUett cam very neare them as they say : but to make the matter 1 times worse^ the Turks hast to Scanderoond, and complaine to the Gaw (viz. the cheife man, and Governer there) that our men had sett upon them, and robbed them of mony and cloaths. Herupon the Turks ran to our Consull's, and if they had not shutt ther gates tis thought they had puld downe the house. This caused much trouble, so that wee durst scarce com on the shoare till it was appeased. And though all the buisnes was a meare invention of the Turks, yet it cost our merchants of Aleppo 300 dollars. (24) I preacht a sermon against hypochrisy ; Jerem. xvii. 10. 25 I bought a pay re of black shooes an a payre of redd 26 shppers for on dollar. Our masts are scraped and taUowed. And so this day also. 27 This day about 3 of the clock cam the cheife Caddee of this country, and the Gaw of Scanderoond, and all their traine, on board us to see our ship. And our Captaine haveing notice of it, put her in a posture as if wee were going to fight, viz. our trumpetts sownding, — pendant, all colours all flying : our gunns aU run out of their ports ; garlands lay in all places filld with shott, round and dubbleheaded ; tubbs full of cartrages, and wadds stood by, and cowles full of water, &c. ; and a fyle of musketteers stretched from the stand to the greate cabin. At which the Turke stood amazed, seeing such gunns and such provision of all things, and haveing never seene an English man of warr before. At their coming in wee gave OCTOBER 1675. 94 them 5 gunns, and as many at their departure: many of them for feare stopt their eares. This day many familys of the Arabians cam by us with their flocks, there being a greate scarcetity of provision in that country. A pigion was sent from Scanderoond to Aleppo this day, to give notice of a French merchant that cam in to day. Tis distant 60 miles. *^ *^ The practice of conveying intelligence between distant sta- tions by means of tame doveS;, has been long used in the East. When, during the Crusades, Acre was besieged by the Christian forces, Saladine kept open a correspondence for some time with the besieged by means of these winged messengers ; but one of them having been accidentally brought to the ground by an ar- row before it reached the city, the stratagem was discovered, and the communication which was calculated to animate the courage of the besieged, by the announcement of speedy succour, being thus betrayed to the Christians, such measures were taken as compelled the surrender of the place before Saladine could arrive to relieve it. According to Sandys this custom is of still earlier antiquity; for he records that Thomosthones, by a pigeon stained with purple, gave notice of his victory at the Olympian Games the self same day to his father in ^Egina ; and by similar means the Consul Hircus held intelligence with Decimus Brutus, when be- sieged in Mutina. — Sandys' Travels, lib. iii. p. 163. Dr. Russell, in his Natural History of Aleppo, vol. ii. p. 203, says, *' The pigeon in former times was employed by the English fac- tory to convey intelligence from Scanderoon to Aleppo, of the arrival of the Company's ships in that port. The name of the ship, the hour of her arrival, and whatever else could be com- prised in a small compass, being written on a slip of paper, was secured in such a manner under the pigeon's wing as not to im- pede its flight ; and her feet were bathed in vinegar, with a view to keep them cool and prevent her being tempted by the sight of water to alight, whereby the journey might be prolonged, or the billet lost." The practice at the time the Doctor wrote (1753) had NOVEMBER 1675. 95 28 29 30 Wee spend in scraping and tallowing our ship. At night drink racckee. (31) I preacht a sermon ; Luke xiii. 7. Nov. 1 Captaine Mauris and Captaine North *^ com from Aleppo to us, and are welcomed on board us with 9 gunns. 2 Wee tallow all the decks, masts, and yards. 3 Wee scrape our quarter deck, mend sayles, and fetch butts from shoare. At 5 a clock cam the Greate Basshaw from the Grand Senior, and many more brave Turks with him to see our ship : we enter- taynd him with our trumpetts and 7 gunns, and 7 at his going. He goes his syrkett every yeare in the been then in disuse many years; but he was informed by an English gentleman, in whose time it subsisted, that he had kno-vvn the pigeons perform the journey in two hours and a half : (the distance between the two places is between 60 and 70 miles^, in a straight line.) The messenger-bird had a young brood at Aleppo, and was sent down in an uncovered cage to Scanderoon, from whence, as soon as set at liberty, she returned with all expe- dition to her nest. It was then usual, at the season of the arrival of the annual ships, to send pigeons to be ready at the port; but if the bird remained absent above a fortnight, she was apt to for- get her young, and therefore not safe to be trusted. The Doctor was informed that the pigeons, when let fly from Scanderoon, instead of bending their course towards the high mountains sur- rounding the plain, mounted at once directly up, soaring almost perpendicularly till out of sight, as if to surmount at once all the obstacles intercepting their view of the place of their des- tination." "^ The annals of the British navy afford a very scanty notice of this gentleman ; of whom the whole we can ascertain is, that '^Mn 1665 he served as a lieutenant in the Prudent Mary, a hired ship of war; from which he was removed to the Foresight; and in the following year was appointed Commander of the Royal Charles, a ship of war, also hired from the merchants." NOVEMBER 1675. 96 nature of on of our Judges, to heare greivances, and to doe justice, and to enquire into the state of all affayres in his syrkett, once a yeare. And so the greate Turke sends of these men every yeare through out all his teritorys. This Bashaw hath 500 horse attending on hiin, and goes in greate state, and is as it were in the nature of an Enghsh Col- loneU, but that he hath also the power of lyfe and death at his owne pleasure. 4 Som raine this morning. At 1 1 a clock the Ve- netian ship cam under our starne; saluted us with 1 1 gunns. Wee returne 5, and departed. 5 This day dined with us ConsuU Low, Mr, Betten, Mr. Barrow, and Capt. Mauris, and Capt. North. After grace our Captaine began a health to Charles the 2d, King of Greate Brittaine, in good luke-sherry ; and in honour of the day fyred 1 3 gunns, the last with a shott in her. The Syppio gave 1 1, and the Tho. and William 9, makeing Scanderoond to shake againe. 6. Nothing to day, but drinke to our friends in Eng- land in racckee at night. (7) I preacht a sermon ; Luke xiii. 7 ; Then sayd he, &c. 8 I began to nett my sylke gyrdle. 9 I was invited to dinnar with our Captaine, and our Doctor, our Pursor, Capt. Mauris, and Capt. North, to our ConsuUs on shoare ; where wee had a princelike dinnar : and every health that wee dranke, every man broake the glasse he drank in ; so that before night wee had destroyd a whole chest of pure NOVEMBER 1075. 97 Venice glasses ; and when dinner was ended, the Consull presented every on of us with a bunch of beads, and a handfull of crosse, for which he sent to Jherusalem on purpose, ^o as he tolde us afterwards. 10 The wind blew so hard, that wee lay there on shoare all night. 11 I went to Snt. George his Chappell, of which her- after, &c. 12 13 Nothing done but fitting the ship till *° These sort of presents seem to have been of common usage in the East. Dr. Clarke relates^ that when at Jerusalem, his room was filled with Armenians and Jews, bringing for sale the only produce of the Jerusalem manufactories — ^beads and crosses, &c. which, as it afforded an easy method of obtaining a .quantity of acceptable presents, occupying but little space, for the Christian inhabitants of Greek and Catholic countries, as well as for Turks and Arabs, he provided himself with a considerable quantity, and found them useful in his subsequent journey. " Indeed," he continues, '' the vendors of them will take no denial, and it is by no means an uncommon occurrence for them to go to the neighbouring convents, &c. with such wares, and compel the Monks not only to purchase the whole stock, but to pay ready money for them." The beads are manufactured either from the date stone, or from a very hard kind of wood called with them " Mecca fruit." When first wrought it appears of the colour of box, and is then dyed yellow, black, or red. When made they are taken to the church of the Holy Sepulchre, where they receive a sort of benediction, after which they are packed up for distribution throughout Europe and Asiatic Christendom. To enhance the value, the Abbe Mariti teUs us, that they endeavour to make the purchasers believe they are formed from the wood of the real cross — and there are few monasteries in the Holy Land but have their stores crammed with these relics, some of which are pro- duced mth great apparent veneration, whenever any European traveller appears, who seems likely to pay well for the possession of so valuable a commodity." H NOVEMBER 1675. 98 (14) Sunday. I preacht a sermon; Exod. viii. 3. This day wee heare the ill newes of the 4 Trypolees that broake out from us, whoe have taken 2 Venetian ships, and 2 English ships, especially on of our Eng- lish ships of a greate value. 15 Wee heare by letters from Alexandria, that the Trypolees are com thither, and that they intend to com for Scanderoond. 16 17 Wee expect the Pyratts every howre. The Master of a greate carevan that cam from Aleppo, cam on board to see our ship. 1 8 Our men went a wooding againe ; and I went to see the Greeke church. 19 I was desyred to goe on shoare to bury on of Captaine North's men, which I did in the Greeks church-yard : his name was William Key, of Swans- wick,^ in the ile of Purbeck, in the county of Dorsett. But I never saw people so amazed as now they are all on shoare ; for ther cam a lettar, dated Novemb. 10, from Cyprus, signifying to all Christians whom ' it might concirne, &c. that 4 men of warr belonging to Trypoly cam in to the Bay of Salyne, and tooke thence 2 French merchant ships, and that they in- tended for Scanderoond ; so that had not our ship beene here, which was all the guard they had, there had scarce beene left a Greeke in the towne. 20 Some coperey woorke done to day ; and a cleare ship, chests and hammacks beeing all in the hole ; yet wee remember our friends. (21) 'Tis as hot here this day as 'tis in England at Mid- §ummar. A sermon ; Exod. viii. 4. And dined on NOVEMBER 1675. 99 boord the Syppio, where wee had an excellent din- nar, and store of wine and punch. 22 Two merchants from Aleppo cam on board us, who brought mee commendations from Mr. Hunt- ington, Chaplen there, with his greate desyre to see mee at Aleppo. But time will not give leave. 23 This morning cam in the Venetian merchant againe ; salutes us with 7 gunns, wee answer 5 ; and are glad to see his safe returne, for he was in greate danger of being taken. 24 A great deale of raine last night. Now we heare for certaine of the Trypolees takeing of the Bristoll Merchant, goeing from Smyrna ; which, besyds the rich lading, had 14 merchants in her. Also wee heard of the Dartmouthe pinnace, goeing on shoare for som sand, had like to have lost all her men ; but 2 only were taken, and are in a gaily at Famagosta, in Cyprus, which wee intend to redeeme at our returne. There dined with us this day, the Ld. Pagett, ^^ Mr. Woods, Mr. Trench, Capt. Mauris, Capt. North, and the old Venetian captaine. Wee had a feast for a prince, and lyquor accordingly; and now wee heare of 6 Trypolees more broake out, and threaten to meete us. ^' It does not appear that this nobleman held any official com- mand at this time (1675);, and he might, probably, when the Chap- lain met with him, be on his return home from a tour in the Holy Land, as he died on the 19th October 1678, at his house in Old Palace Yard, in his 68th year. In the early part of the Civil War he was employed by the Parliament, but afterwards went over to Charles, and raised a regiment of horse for him, with which he did good service at Edge Hill fight. H 2 LofC- NOVEMBER 1675. 100 25 This day I went on shoare, and saw a Venetian carryed to be buried at the French church ; and the Venetian shipp. On fryar led the way, holding up as he went a Snt Andrew's crosse, 2 more following of him, and 2 more following them, each haveing a wax-kandle in his hand ; wherof the last fryar that went on the right hand was in a surples, and sayd som thing as he went, just before the corps. And so they went into the French church, whither I durst not goe for feare notice should have been taken. 26 The Lord Pagett tooke our Captaine on board the Syppio, where great joy was she wen, by fyreing of gunns, to welcom som Allopeenes. . 27 Nothing but merry ment, and drinking to our friends in England. (28) I preacht a sermon, Revel, xxii. 14, and dined on board the Tho. and Will. 29 A very windy morning. In the afternoone 2 pigions are sent to Aleppo. They will be there in lesse then 3 howers. Tis 60 miles. 30 So tempestuous, that wee are forced to loare our yards on the decks. Dec. 1 Nothing but tempestuous weather, and colde frosty weather, and raine all this weeke. But wee end the weeke as wee used to doe, &c. (5) I preacht a sermon : Exod. viii. 4 ; The wicked will not feare till he feels. The last night our boate- swaine dyed very suddenly, and this afternoone I buryed him in the Greeks church yard. He was nobly buryed, and like a souldyer. He had a neate coffin, which was covered over with on of the King's DECEMBER 1675. 101 jacks, and his boarson's sylver whisle and chaine layd on the top, (to shew his office,) betweene 2 pistolls crost with a hangar drawne. At his going off the ship he had 9 gunns, which were fyred at a minut's distance. And 8 trumpetts sownding dolefully, wherof the 4 in the first ranke began, and the next 4 answered; so that ther was a continued dolefull tone from the ship to the shoare, and from thence to the grave. Halfe the ship's company, with their musketts in the right posture, going after the corps, with all the officers of all the ships that were there. I my selfe goeing immediatly before, and the trum- petts before me. The whole towne cam forth to see us. I buryed him according to our Common Prayer booke. Abundance of Greeks were at the grave, shewing a great deale of devotion ; but the Turks stood from the grave, and observed, but were not at all displeased, but (as wee heard after) com- mended our way. When he was buryed he had 4 peales of musket t shott. And as soone as wee were out of the church yard the trumpetts sounded merry levitts all the way. His nam was Richard Capps, of Bedford. 6 This morning wee wey anchor for sayling, and the wind is fayre. All the Alopeenes and Captaines dined on board us; were extreamly merry, wishing us thousands of good wishes, and drinking our healths over and over againe. At 4 in the afternoone they all went off : wee gave them 3 cheares, and 1 1 gunns; every on of them haveing dranke Snt. George in a rummar as he went over the ship syd ; DECEMBER 1675. ] 02 SO wee part. Deus fortunet progressum; Amen. Our squadron is, the Assistance, Syppio, Tho. and William, and the Venetian. Scanderoond being a part of Asya Minor, I must therfore begin with a small discription of those places that belonge to Asya, and ly alonge by the Mediter- ranean, before I speake of Scanderoond. Asya lys east from Greece, or the European shoares. And Asya is parted from Europe by the river Tanais, called by the Tartarean s, Don, where it leaveth Asya on the east syd, wheron standeth the cytty of Pera, or Gallata ; and Europe on the west, where standeth Byzantium, now Constantinople ; the sea betweene these two being not above on mile over. And this river going southward in a narrow passage, dis- burdeneth it selfe into the lake called Meotis Palus, and so into Pontus Uxinus, or the Dead Sea. And on this narrow passage, called Hellespontus, only 2 miles in breadth, standeth Sestos in Europe, and Abidos in Asia. Here Xerxes made his bridge over • the sea; and here Leander for the love of Hero swam crosse it so often, till at the last he was drowned. Tartaria is next, and lyeth on the south syd of Asia : it was formerly called Scythia, whose bounds did extend far into Europe, but the greatest part of it lyes in Asya, and is a very large country. The Tartareans are men of a greate stature and strength, and a warrlike people. They fight on hors- back, with bowes and arrows, and a broade short sword. They are Gentiles, and doe not acknowledge DECEMBER 1675. 103 Mahomett. And they eate raw horsflesh, after it hath hung at their saddle awhil, for their ordinary foode. They have greate plenty of horses. NatoHa, formerly called Asya Minor, lys next on the Mediterranean ; on part wherof is Ionia, where, upon the sea coasts, stands the cytty Ephesus, on of the 7 churches to which John in his Revelations did write ; as also Snt. Paule wrote his Epistle. This was on of the most renowned cytty s of all Asia Minor, and especially for Diana's Temple that was there ; which, for the magnificence of it, was on of the woonders of the world, Twas sayd to be 200 years in building; and it was 7 times sett on fyre by lightening; at the last it was set on fyre and destroyed by on Herostratus, a base fel- low, who did that foule act only to get himselfe a name. Smyrna is another of the 7 churches or cyttys, standing on the Mediterranean shoare ; of which Policarpus was sometime Bishop, whoe was also once scholler to John the Evangelist. Here is a brave English factory of 1 00 men. Sardis is the 3d cytty, but it stands with in the land in Lydia ; where also stands Phylodelphia, Thyatyra, Laodicea, and more north, Pergamus ; and more north yet lyes a little country, alonge by the Mediterranean, called Eolis, in which stands Mysia, in which place did stand Illium and Troy, where uppon, or rather closse vmder a great hill, which appeared to us very greene through our pro- spectives, som heaps like peices of rocks might be DECEMBEH 1675. 104 perceived, which were (as it is related) the ruines of Troy towne5 ^^ In Sandys' Travels we have the following account of these ruins^ which he^, as well as Teonge, supposed to be those of Troy : — " In the plain beyond us (for we dared not straggle farther from the shore) we beheld where once stood Ilium, or Troy. These reliques do sufficiently declare the greatness of the city^ and not a little the excellency : the wall (as Bellonius more largely describeth it) consisting of great square stones, hard, black and spongy, in divers places yet standing, supported on the inside with pillars, about two yards distant from each other, and garnished once with many now ruined turrets, consisting of a confusion of thrown-down buildings, with ample cisterns for the receipt of rain, it being seated on a sandy soil, and altogether des- titute of fountains. Foundations are here of a temple, and two towers of marble that have better resisted the fury of time ; the one on the top of a hill, the other nearer the sea in the valley. From the wall of the city another extendeth, supported with buttresses, partly standing and partly thrown down, well nigh unto Ida, and then turning, is said to reach to the Gulph of Satelia, about twenty miles distant. Half a mile off and west of these ruins, opposing Tenedos, are the hot- water baths here- tofore adorned and neighboured with magnificent buildings ; the way thither enclosed as it were with sepulchres of marble, many of the like being about the city, both of Greeks and Latins, as ap- peareth by the several characters. Two baths there be, the one choaked with rubbige, the other yet in use, though under a sim- ple coverture ; but now the ruins bear not altogether that form, lessened daily by the Turks, who carry ed the pillars and stones unto Constantinople to adorn the buildings of the great Bassaes. Pieces of ruins lye every where scattered throughout these plains." — Sandys, lib. i. pp. 16, 18. These ruins, however, would appear from Pocock to have been those of New Ilium, a village famous for a temple of Minerva, and afterAvards made a city by Alexander, when he came to it after his victory at the Granicus, and improved by Lysimachus after his death. " Here," says Dr. Pocock, " we found great heaps of ruins, many broken pillars and pieces of marble ; and proceeding for about three quarters of an hour further, a great DECEMBER 1675. 105 Bithynia lyeth north from hence; where standeth the citty Nicea, where the first counsel! was held against Arrius the heretick, by Constantine the Greate, and therfore called the Nycene Counsell. Here stood also Calcedon, and Paflagonia ; and on the south of this stood all the country of Galatia, to whom Snt. Paule wrote his Epistle. Hither also were the Jewes dispersed, to whom Snt. Peter wrote his number of hewn stones^ columns^, and entablatures. The Sca- mander and Simois are said to meet near this place^, and Old Troy is supposed to have been at the Ilian village on the height di- rectly over the meeting of these rivers. In this plain most of the battles mentioned by Homer were fought." The Doctor tra- versed the height between the two rivers ; but says, " I thought it would he in vain to search on this height for the ruins of Old Troy, where it is supposed to have been, all this part being now covered with wood, and the scite of it not known seventeen hun- dred years ago." — Pocock's Observations on the East, vol. ii. part ii. 106. Dr. Clarke seems to have established beyond a doubt the re- lative situation of Old Troy and the Ilium mentioned by Pocock, which, according to Strabo (Geo. lib. xxiii. 859,) were exactly thirty stadia (three English miles and six furlongs) distant from each other. Sandys and Teonge were therefore evidently both mistaken in supposing they saw the ruins of the Homeric city, and Pocock was correct in fixing upon the height as its situation. The temple spoken of by Sandys was the celebrated one dedi- cated to the Thymbrian Apollo, situated upon the top of a hill called Boyan Mezaley, and in the midst of a beautiful grove of oaks. Dr. Clarke says, " Here the ruins of a Doric temple of white marble lay heaped in the most striking manner, mixed with broken stelse, cippi, sarcophagi, cornices and capitals of very enormous size, entablatures, and pillars ;" and here he considers Old Troy to have stood. The marble towers were those of Ly- simachus ; and at the time Dr. Clarke was there, in 1801, the Turks were busied in removing the enormous blocks which com- posed the ruin, for the purpose of using them in some modern erections. ECEMBER 1675. 106 first Epistle ; as also to those in Pontus, Cappadocia, and Bythinia: from whence southward lyeth Ly- caonia, and Pamphylia, which toucheth the Medi- terranean ; and more south, even on the toe (as it were) of the bay, or on the upper end of it, standeth Cappadocia. And now haveing com all alonge by the Mediter- ranean, and also compassed the codd, or farthermost end of it, wee com to Palestina, whose borders com to the cod of the bay ; whose cheife cytty is Tarsus, now called Byas, lying by the sea syd, and under the mountaine Taurus, or mount Horr, as in Scrip- ture ; and is but eighteen small miles from Scan- deroond. To this cytty of Tarsus, Jonas would have fled, when he should have gon to Nynevy, but was swal- lowed by the fish ; and also was landed againe by the fish about \6 miles from Tarsus, under the moun- taine Taurus, and but 2 good miles from Scan- deroond ; where to this day the Greekes keepe a monument of white bastard marble, built in the place where Jonas was landed, called by the name of Jonas piUar. To this cytty of Tarsus did Solloman send for golde and other provisions for the building of the Temple. And the mines of the cytty of Ninevy lye with in land (as tis credibly sayd) not above 70 miles fi:'om Jonas pillar ; so that the fish did him a greate kindnes, in bringing Jonas a nearer way from Joppa to Ninevy, then he could have gon by land ; for it is DECEMBER 1675. 107 between these two a dyrect line by sea, bnt must goe by land far about. This part of Asya is called Cylicia. And in this very place (which is called the Straits of Cylicia, which lys betweene Tarsus and Scanderoond, and is the greate roade way betweene Constantinople and Jherusalem ; and is a very narrow passage betweene the sea and the mountaine Taurus) did Alexander the greate in person, with 30,000 men, give Darius a greate overthroe, who had at least an hundred thousand men. And in memory of this his victory, he built a small cytty, and called it Alexandria ; and to distinguish it from Alexandria in Egypt, it was called Alexandretta, and now Scanderoond. The bay is rather an elbow then a half-moone ; and the towne stands in the south east corner, which hath beene far biger. There remayns also the mines of an old brick castle, but it never could be of any con- siderable strength. But on of the Gaws of Scan- deroond began the platforme of a stronge fortifica- tion, and built it 6 or 10 yards high, and the greate gate leading into it was built quite over the arch ; but the Grand Seniore haveing notice of it, and knowing not but that it might prove a nursery of re- bellion, (for the Turks are very jealouse people) sen 2 mutes, which brought away his heade, and so the worke lyes as he left it, to this very day. The headsman that was sent for this Gaw's head, had commaund to bring 4 other Gaws' heads also, which order he executed ; but going over the plaines DECEMBER 1675. 108 of Antioch, he had accidentally lost on of them : he knowing not what course to take, (knowinge also that his owne head must goe for that which he had carelessly lost,) did in his jurny lite of a poore Arabian, who had a lawdible black beard ; the heads- man maks no more a doe, but strangles the man, and takes of the skine of his head and face, and stuffs it with cotton, (which is their way of beheadding, and they doe it so artificially that the very countenance and complexion of the man remaineth firme,) and brought it amonge the rest, and it passed currant. The heads-man himselfe tolde mee this sam story at Aleppo.^^ ^^ We have the concurrent testimony of various travellers to shew the ingenuity of the Turks in performing, what, from its frequency, may be considered the favourite (though dreadful) operation of flaying their A^ctims. Sandys informs us, '' they fre- quently strip criminals of their skins with such precision, that leaving the navel untouched, the sufferer is kept to linger out a long and tedious death in the most excruciating agony." — Travels, lib. i. p. 49. Dr. Russell, who resided at Aleppo for many years, states, that " it is usual among them, when an offender has been of any importance, for the whole skin of the head to be taken off and stuffed with chaff; which is done in such manner that even some resemblance to the living countenance is retained; and it is then forwarded to Constantinople, to be laid before the Grand Signior." In the fate of Bragadine, the Venetian governor of Cyprus, we have another instance of their talent in this respect. He was flayed alive and his skin stuffed, and after being suspended at the yard-arm of the Turkish Admiral's galley for two days, sent to Constantinople with the heads of his brave companions, Estor Baillion, Lewis Martinengus, and Quirinus, and there presented to the Grand Signior, who placed the heads upon the wall of the DECEMBER 1675. 109 Scanderoond lyes in the latitude of 34, or very little more. The towne is very inconsiderable. It hath in it 3 factoris, which are all the grace of the towne : the English factory exceeding that of the French, as much as that doth the Venetians. And on the 22 d of November last, ther was a thurd story added to the English factory, in which it excells all the buildings in towne. In the 2d story of the fac- tory, on the north syde and lookeing dyrectly to the sea, are 2 small windowes, of equall hight. Over on of them is cutt in a stone R. C. : on the other is cutt on the north syd M. WK., on the other syd G. G. H. ; and on a 4 square stone, fixed between boath the windows, is cutt 1638, scarce very discemeable. There is the Turks church (as they caU it,) a 4 square ragged stone wall, about 6 yards over, with peices of lying on the topp of the wall for overlyars (like our hovelles), and earth on the top of som rugged boarde which ly on the overlyars. Tis far more like a hogsty then a church ; I never saw any place so slovenly as that, which went under that name. It stands by it selfe on the Mareene, over against the Gawe's house, neare the sea, and about a stone's cast, or little more, from the English factory. And they tell mee that at sun rising, and at noone, at sun- Seraglio. (The brother and nephews of Bragadine in 1596 pur- chased his skin, and caused it to be buried with great funeral pomp in the church of St. Paul and St. John at Venice. — Mariti, v. i. p. 137.) It is most probable that this method of stuffing the skin was adopted in all cases \vhere it was considered requisite to send a proof of Turkish vengeance to the Grand Signior. DECEMBER 1675. 110 setting, and at midnite, on in greene calls the Turks to their devotion, in a very lamentable tone. They admitt non but what are Turkes, not so much as their wives. The Greeks church is far more large, and kept far more handsom, being compassed with a handsum church yard. It hath a south and north doore, and handsom seats for on single person round about the body of the church, much like those in our coUedge chappells in England ; but neyther seate nor bench in any other part ; the body of the church being des- titute of any seate, and also on the top flatt, as the ' Turks was. On the south syd closse to the wall stands a deske, and a seate (betweene it and the very wall) for on per- son ; and on the desk lyes their service booke in a strainge olde Greeke caracter, which I could by no meanes reade : and by that lay David's Psalmes^ in a very leagible Greeke caracter ; but they had neyther Bible, nor Testament. In the middle of the church, against a post, hangs the picture of Snt. George a horsback, which is in all their churches. Betweene that and the partition, which seperats the church from the chancell (into which wee are not suffered to looke,) hange lamps of severall fashons, closse the on to the other, in a row the whole breadth of the church ; wherof on is allways burning. On the partition itselfe, and on the south syd of the south doore that letts into the chancell (which, as I perceive, is the cheife doore to goe in at, though there is a lesser dore also on the DECEMBEH 1675. Ill north syd,) is the picture of our Saviour, according to the true ancient forme ; and more southwardly the picture of Snt. John the beloved dissiple ; and on the north syd of that doore, the picture of the Virgine Mary : and north, the picture of Snt. Nicholas ; all well drawn : and dyrectly over that doore, and on a large brasen crosse, is the picture of Snt. Luke ; and severall others boath over and about these ; but these are the most remarkable. Not that they doe any worship to these or any other, but for ornament. They have also crucifixes about their necks, and also beades in their pocketts, and oft in their hands, but doe hate to doe worship or service to or with eyther. Theu' Vicar there, whom they call Senior Pater, is a very symple olde man, and dwells just against the south doore of the church ; and teacheth little children to reade, and som few to write ; and is very poore in his habite, and wiUing to shew any on the church, in hopes of some benevolence, as I tooke it.^'* ^^ The poverty and meanness of the Greek clergy have always been subjects of remark with travellers ; and even up to the present time we have abundant reason to believe they have not improved either in condition or manners. Capt. Light, who in 1814 travelled in Egypt^, Nubia^ the Holy Land, and Cyprus, states, that in an excursion he made during his stay in the latter place to the mountains west of Larnica, a pecuniary return for hospitality afforded him, was thankfully accepted by one of their bisJiaps, who at his country-seat kept a table d'hote for several of the rich inhabitants, at which the Captain one day dined, slept at the house, and on the following morning, after paying for his accommodation, departed. With regard to the inferior priest- hood also, this gentleman gives a very indifferent account, having mistaken the principal of the convent of St. Thecla for a peasant, notwithstanding he had three or four attendants. '' He was,'' DECEMBER 1675. J 12 Severall English men have beene buryed in this church yard, by reason of the unholsomnes of that ayer, or their owne extravagancy in distempering them selves with those country wines ; where on the south syd of the church, about half a yard higher then the ground, are 3 white bastard-marble toombs. These are the only things remarkable in Scan- deroond ; except I should tell you of the multitude of jack-calls there about that place, which make a great noyse in the evening (much like boys and gyrles at course-a-packe, or barly breakes,) and if they find a poore beast they will all settle upon him, kill him and eate him. And somtimes they will fetch their poultry out of the towne. There are also an innumerable company of froggs, of a greate bignes, which cry almost like ducks. They lye in a moorish place neare the towne, which being dry in July and August, the froggs follow a little fresh-water streame, into the towne ; and for want of water dye there, and infect the ayre very much ; . so that tis counted at that time of the yeare especially a sickly place. Here is an art (I meane from the 3 factorys) to send a pigion single, and somtimes 2 together, from hence to Aleppo upon any sudden occasion of ship- says the Captain;, " an old man of about sixty^ perfectly ignorant of all except his Missal;, which he had been taught by rote, not being able to read it. He was proud of his chapel;, and pointed exultingly to the miserable daubs that adorned it. He left his pipe to repeat the evening prayers, and having finished them, took to it again : — this seemed his only occupation." DECEMBER 1675. 113 ping coming in, or any other buisnes. The pigions are bread at Aleppo, and brought downe on horse- back in cages ; and when occasion serves, a small note made fast to their wing, closse to theyr body with a sylke, yet so as not to hurt the wing ; and then take them to the topp of the factory, and let him goe, and the pigion will fly home, (which any of our pigions would also doe,) and the pigion coming home, thinking to creepe in to his old habitation, is caught as it were in a cofer trapt, and taken, and examined.^^ Here is also, about a mile and a halfe south from the towne, a place called Snt. George his chappell : a ruinous place, and nothing left but a bare wall, of about 12 yards in length, and no covering over it, and as it were a breach in the wall at the south corner of it, where there was a dore. Yet is this ^^ This practice (as mentioned in a preceding note^, page 94^) continued to exist at Aleppo for several years^ but at last^ by the common consent of all the Europeans settled there for commer- cial purposes, it was altogether suppressed. The occasion was this : one of these carrier-birds being killed on its way from Scar- deroon to Aleppo, the letter conveyed by it, instead of reachino- the person for whom it was intended, fell into the hands of an European merchant of a different nation. It contained informa- tion of the excessive price to which gall nuts, the most valuable article of commerce procured from Aleppo, had risen in Europe. The merchant, who had thus obtained the notice, immediately bought up all the gall nuts he could find, and by this means ac- quired a very considerable gain. The circumstance naturally produced a great deal of jealousy and ill will among the Euro- peans, and at length, to prevent the chance of a repetition of such dishonourable conduct, it was resolved by them, that in future ho couriers of the kind should be used. Since that period, therefore the practice has been discontinued. I DECEMBER 1675. 114 place highly prised by them ; for if any of the Greeks be dangerously sick, and can but crawle to that place, and taking with him 3 wax candles, sets them, or rather sticks them, betweene the ragged stones of the wall, in each altar place (as they call them) on, lighted ; and saying his prayers there, and staying in that place till the candles are burnt out ; he returns home cured of what distemper soever. Mr. Barrow, clerke to our Consull there, Mr. Low, did himselfe credibly affirm to mee, that by this only meanes he was recovered 3 sever all times from a vyolent fever whilst he Hved at Scanderoond. There is an old figg-tree growes at the south east corner of this peteete building ; but probably in former times there might be a greater bvdlding, for there are heaps, which signify the demolishing of som greater fabrick. But those that com hither for cure, doe always leave somthing behind them in token of their faith, and thankfuUnes ; and therfore you shall finde those 3 altar-places (viz. the 3 corners in the east end) not only as black as any chymny with the smoak of their wax candles, but also the seames, or chaunes, or cracks that are betweene the ragged stones in the wall, stuft full of bitts of sylke, or locks of hayre, of all manner of colors ; and somtimes bitts of fine linnen, stuck there in a bitt of their wax candle ; and tis no lesse then sacriledge to take away any of these. There is also about 2 good myles from Scan- deroond a monument of bastard marble, closse to the DECEMBEE 1675. 115 sea syd, as I sayA before, p. 1 06, and is to this day honoured by the name of Jonas Pillar ; being the place where the fish landed him, after shee had kept him 3 days. It was built like an arch, as was the custom in those days ; and now there remaine only the 2 ends, like the 2 ends of a stone house, saving that these are of a greater thicknes. The arch is fallen downe, and carry d away (as som say) to help to build an olde castle which stands closse by it ; but by what is left there now, you may discerne that it was an arch.^^ This place, as also Snt. George his ^^ Pocock^ in liis observations on Syria, and the Holy Land, gives the following account of the ruins called Jonas's pillars, which are situated at a short distance from the hills, bounding the plain of Baias near Scanderoon, the scene of Alexander's victory over Darius. " On the hills to the south, in the face of the plain, and rather inclining down to the sea, there is a ruin that appears like two pillars, which are commonly called Jonas's pillars, on some tradition not well grounded, that the whale threw up that Pro- phet somewhere about this place. It was with the utmost diffi- culty that I got to this ruin, by reason that it is in the middle of a thick wood. When I came to it I found it to be the remains of a fair triumphal arch of grey polished marble, the top and great part of the piers having fallen down : the corners of it were adorned with pilasters ; the principal front was to the south, where there was a pillar on each side, the pedestals of which only re- main. There seems to have been a passage in the eastern pier up to the top of it : the inner part is built of a kind of moulder- ing gravelly stone, or earth cut out like hewn stone, and appears almost Kke unburnt brick; and I should have thought that it was a composition, if I had not seen such a stone in this part. In order to strengthen the building there is a tier of marble at every third or fourth layer, and what remains of the architecture has in it so much beauty, that one may judge it was built when that art flourished, and might be erected to the honour of Alexander by one of the Kings of Syria." i2 DECEMBEU 1675. 116 chappell, and several! other places of note, would have beene repayred by the Greeks longe before now, but the Turks will not suffer them to repay re any thing that is demolished. I shall not trouble my selfe to desyde the con- troversy betweene these Greeks, and Mr. George Sandis his relation ; who affirms that the place where the Jonas Pillar stands, and where he was really landed, was above Constantinople, and on the banks of the river Tanais. But I never heard of that cytty of Nynevy to be that way : and it is credibly re- ported by all that country, that the mines of that cytty that was so famous formerly, are not above 70 miles from the place I spake of. It satisfys mee that such a place there was. There is also (as I have intimated before) at Scan- deroond the mines of an old brick castle, and also the foundation of another never halfe built ; so that neyther of them are of any use or safty. Only tis the only port, or roade, to which the greatest part of ' the eastern commoditys are brought by land thither, as to the most convenient place, to be transported by shiping to any other place of Europe, or other countrys. Haveing done with Scanderoond, let us now re- turn to our voyage. 7 This morning wee cam just over against Cape Porcos, or Hogg-hill ; not that the possest ran dbwne this steepe hill, but as tis sayd, from the similitude of it, in that it resembles the shape of a hogg ; but I could see no such thing in it. And now the wind DECEMBER 1675. 117 being not fayre, in the afternoone wee are over against the bay of Antioch. B Betimes in the morning we have passed the east corner of Cyprus, and quite out of the sight of Asya with a small gale. 9 The wind being contrary, wee are at least 12 leagues short of where wee were yesterday. The boarson's goods are this day sould at the maine mast, at an extreame deare rate : the wind blowes fayre, 1 Betweene 3 and 4 this morning, the Thomas and WiUiam carrying the light, had almost led us all on the shoare, on the east end of Cyprus at the corner of the bay which leads in to Famagosta ; but the land being very high, and they very neare, did discover it in time, and fyred 2 guns, which at the first did much afFrite us, supposing they had beene on the shoare runn a ground, but finding it not so, we aU tackt about, and say Id on. Very rainy weather, and much thunder. 1 1 Wee are still against Cyprus with a crosse wind ; yet wee comfort ourselves with drinking healths to our friends in good rackee. (12) Tis a fayre day, but no prayers ; for haveing dis- covered a sayle, wee chase her. Wee perceive she is a gaily, and the wind fayling us, and shee rowing with many oares, getts (clear) of us ; and wee stay for our companions a while, and then fall downe to them, who were on our lee-bow, being past Cyprus many leages. 1 3 Much raine last night. A fayre gale this evening. 14 A strong gale ; but carrys us not our dyrect course. BECEMBEll 1675. 118 15 A fayre day and wind to drive us dyrectly to Candia. 16 A faire gale this morning promises us a sight of Candia by night. About 4 in the afternoone our Captaine calls all hands up ; and called Mr. Na- thaniell Berry, and gave him authority to exercise the office of boateswaine, and bad all take notice of it ; also gave him a cane, and bad him use it with discretion. After that he cald Robert Tyndall into the greate cabin, and made him master's mate. This is a tempestuous night. 17 RufF and hazy weather this morning, and a troublesom night. 18 Worse and worse. A very greate tempest; wee never had the like as yet. The seas com often over our quarter decks ; wee are all squandered on from the other, and can see (no) ship but our owne, and shee extreamly tossed. No thinking of friends. (19) Yesterday towards evening the storme did a little cease ; but the seas are still very untoward. Wee re- ceived but small detryment, but the losse of good beife and porke, which stood at the head of the ship to be watered; and so it was, for twas all driven away, tubbs and all. Now wee are glad to see all our companions safe. Our Captaine commanded severall gunns to be fyred at severall times the last night ; som of which they saw, or heard, and so all cam in. Wee had only divine service to day, every on haveing buisnes enough to dry his cloaths and bedding. Wee had thought to have scene the east end of Candia longe before now ; but wee are driven DECEMBER 1675 1J9 at least 40 leagues from that place : where I intend to leave you a while, and goe back to Sorya ; and returne when our cloths are dry. Sorya, or Syria, is over against Cyprus, and lys southward from Sylicia ; haveing on the east, Meso- potamia ; on the south, Arabia ; on the west, Tyre and Sydon ; on the north, the Mediterranean. Here dwelt the Aramites : and here is Cape Porcos, spoke of before ; at the end of which in a great bay stands the cytty Antioch, so famous formerly, being a place to which the Apostles cam often ; and is still a place of account. Joppa standeth in another bay somwhat west- ward ; and also in request ; to which many of our English merchants doe resort ; and is not above 30 miles from Jherusalem. This is the country of Palestina, and is only the south and south west part of Syria; and was the place where the children of Israeli dwelt after they cam from Egypt, and not many days jurny from Egypt, though they made it a 40 yeares voyage. All the which time they (haveing first crossed the Bay, properly called the Kedd Sea) wandred in the desarts of Arabia, as God had fore-ordained, &c. This country is of small cercumference to main- taine such a multitude of people as then it did. Tis not above 200 Itahan miles in length ; but all the bounds of the promised land are far more large ; as you read, Numbers the 34th. Yet was it so fruit- full, flowing with milk and hony, (as saith the Scriptures,) that it maintained 30 kings, and all DECEMBEU 1675. 120 their traines, before the Israelites cam thither : and then did it maintaine that vast number of the 12 tribes of Israeli, with out the least fealing of any want. This land, by God's blessing on it, was thought to be the most fruitfuU place in the world; but ex- perience shews us that now tis farr short of that fer- tility ; as also all the eastarn parts are not neare so fruitful! as formerly ; God haveing curst that land with the inhabitants in particular : and also because the world was then in its spring, or autum of its age, but now it is grown e old. The river Jordan runs through this country, and into the Lake Asphaltydes, which casts up a sly me that joynes stones together very strongly. This lake is by som also called Mare Mortuum, for by reason of the saltnes and thicknes of it nothing can live in it ; neyther will it mix with the waters of Jordan, though the river run through the very midst of the lake. No creature can possibly sink in it, though it . were a horse or oxe, and thek leggs were tyd to- gether ; nay the very burds that sometimes would fly over it, are by the noysom smell of it suffocated and fall dead into it. The occasion of the unsavorynes of this lake (as is supposed) was the destruction of Sodom and Gomorra and the cjttys of those plaines with fyre and brim- ston ; all that whole country of the plaines still being a witnes of that fearfuU judgment, in that it still smells so much of brimston^ that in hot weather the passengers are almost suffocated thereby. The filth DECEMBER 1G75. 121 or bytumenous svibstance of the which country still piirgeth it selfe into this lake, which retaines not only its smell, but also its naucious quality .^'^ '^ It may be amusing to compare the various particulars given by successive travellers of this celebrated lake : but it would be difficult to reconcile some of their contradictions. We will com- mence with Tacitus^ who in his Hist. (lib. v. c. 6.) gives the fol- lowing account of the Lake Asphaltites and the adjoining plain. '' This lake is vastly great in circumference, as if it were a sea. It is of an ill taste, and is pernicious to the adjoining country by its strong smell ; the wind raises no waves there, nor will it main- tain either fish or such birds as use the water ; at a certain time of the year it casts out bitumen. Not far from this lake are those plains which are related to have been of old fertile, and to have had many cities full of people, but to have been burnt up by a stroke of lightning. It is also said the footsteps of that destruction still remain, and that the earth itself appears as burnt earth, and has lost its natural fertility." Sandys, who travelled in 1610, writing upon the same subject, and of the river Jordan which runs into the lake, says, " The river running a great way further with many windings as it were to delay his ill destiny, gliding through the plains of Jericho not far below where that city stood, it is at length devoured by that ac- cursed lake Asphaltites, so named of the bitumen which it vo- miteth ; called also the Dead Sea, perhaps in that it nourisheth no living creature, or for its heavy waters hardly to be moved by the winds. The whole country hath from hence its provision of salt ; seventy miles it is in length, and sixteen over, once a fruitful vaUey, compared for delight unto Paradise and called Pentapolis, of her five cities, destroyed with fire from heaven, and converted then into this filthy lake and barren desolation that environs it — a fearful monument of divine vengeance." — (Lib. iii. p. 110.) The Abbe Mariti, who visited the lake in 1760, says : — > '^ We are informed that this vast bason, 180 miles in circum- ference, was covered formerly with fruit-trees, and abundant crops; and that from the bosom of the earth, buried under its waters, arose the superb cities of Sodom, Gomorrah, Adam, Se- boim and Segor, all rendered illustrious by the presence of a DECEMBEll 1675. 122 This country is altogether unfruitfull, being all over full of stones, which looke just like burnt syndars. And on som low shrubbs there grow small king." — " Some travellers have asserted that the remains of these unfortunate cities may stiU be seen, when the waters are low and limpid. Some say, also, that they observed fragments of columns together with their chapiters. I could perceive nothing of the kind." — " Nothing in this place gave me the least idea of the de- solation spoken of in the Bible. The air is pure, and the fields are extremely verdant ! !" — " The waters are clear and limpid, but bitter and excessively salt ; no kind of fish is produced in them, nor do plants of any kind grow in the lake, the bottom of which is black, thick and foetid, and the earth in the neighbourhood is of the same colour, and as inflammable as coal." — Mariti, V. ii. 372. In Dr. Pocock's Description of the East between 1733 and 1740 we read thus : — " We found the hills, which are of white stone, higher the nearer we approached the Dead Sea. At length we came to the steep rocky cliffs that hang over it, and make a most dreadful ap- pear a?ice." — " There seem originally to have been slime-pits or pits of bitumen in this place, which was anciently the vale of Sid- dim ; and Josephus says, (Antiq. Jud. i. c. 9.) that on the over- throw of Sodom this vale became the lake Asphaltites. Strabo . (xiv. 764,) says, that there was a tradition among the inhabitants that there were thirteen cities here, of which Sodom was the chief, and that the lake was made by earthquakes, and eruptions of fire, and hot sulphurous and bituminous water, and that the cities were swallowed up by them; and he seems to speak of it as a certain truth that there were subterraneous fires in those parts, as might be concluded from the burnt stones, the caverns, ashes and pitch distilling from the stones, and also from streams of hot water which sent forth a stench that was perceived at a great distance, and likewise from the ruins of ancient habitations." Dr. Pocock found the water very salt, clear, and of the colour of sea-water: upon analysing a bottle of it, it was found to con- tain nothing but salt, except a little portion of alum ; when in the lake it appeared to have an oily substance in it. He states. DECEMBEl^ 1675. 123 round things, which arc called apples,^^' but no witt like them. They are somwhat fayre to looke at, but touch them and they moulder all to black ashes, like soote boath for lookes and smell. So also says Josephus, and Solynus, c. 48, that the air has been always thought to he bad, and the Arabs and people who go near its banks always bind their handkerchiefs before their mouths and draw their breath only through their noS' trils, through fear of its pernicious effects. — Pocockj vol. ii. p. i. pp. 35. 37. 38. Clarke, wlio visited this extraordinary lake in his travels through the Holy Land in the year 1801, says, " Every thing about it was in the highest degree grand and awful. Its desolate though majestic features are well suited to the tales related of it." *^ It has been doubted by some travellers, whether the pro- duction so called has ever existed, save in the imagination of those who have described it. There seems, however, considerable reason in the testimony of authors of different ages, for admitting their accuracy. Josephus speaks as having himself seen the fruit grow- ing near the borders of the lake Asphaltites, the valley of Sodom, which he says '' have a colour as if they were fit to be eaten, but if you pluck them with your hand, they dissolve into smoke and ashes." — Wars of the JewSj b. iv. c. 8. And this account of the Jewish historian has been adopted by various writers since his time, most of whom have concurred in describing this singular production as growing in abundance about the valley. It is true that Dr. Pocock says, " As to the fruits of Sodom, fair without and full of ashes within, / saw nothing of them ; but from the testimo- nies we have, something of the kind has been produced : but I imagine they may be pomegranates, which having a tough hard rind, and being left on the trees two or three years, the inside may be dried to dust, and the outside remain firm." The Abbe Mariti, in his descrij^tion of the Dead Sea and adjacent country, says, " No person could point out to me in the neighbourhood that species of fruit called the apples of Sodom, which being fresh and of a beautiful colour in appearance, fell into dust as soon as they were touched."— (Vol. ii. p. 372.) But Dr. Clarke would seem to set the question at rest, as he states, upon the authority DECEMBER 1675. 124 In this land lived the Israelits, even the 12 Trybes, in on kingdom ; untill Rehoboam the sonn of Sollo- man divided them. Of which 10 were called Israeli, and 2 Judah. The 1 for their idolatry were carryed captives into Assyria ; and the two remayned in Jherusalem and Judea, whoe were properly called Jewes, and re- mayned there till the captivity of Babilon, where they Hved 70 yeares. After they were restored againe ; but lived in small repute till our Saviour Christ's time. After that (a curse being layd on them for crucifying Christ) they were, and stiU are vagobonds on the face of the whole earth. Their cheife cytty was Jherusalem, where their first temple was magnificently built by Solloman, and destroyd by Nebucadnezar. At the command of the Kang of Persia their 2d temple was built, but far inferior to the first ; and destroyd by Tytus, and his sonn Vespatian, whoe brought it to a miserable desolation by fyre, sword, and famine. Herod the Create, an Edomite stranger, built the 3d, thinking thereby to please the people. And in this boath Christ and his Apostles did teach the people ; and that land and also the mines of that cytty were still possessed by som Christians, till about of Hasselquist;, p. 288;, that " the production called the apple of Sodonij is the fruit of the '^ Solanum Melongena/' which is produced in abundance near the Dead Sea : the inside of this fruit when attacked by an insect (Tenthredo) turns to dust^ but the skin remains entire, and of a beautiful colour." DECEMBER 1675. * 125 660 and od yeares since, the Sarazens did invade it, and tooke it. For the repelling of which Godfry of BuUen with severall Christians joyned themselves, and woon it from them ; and Godfry and his suc- cessors were Kings of it 87 years. Saladine King of Egypt got it from the Christians, who was also then King of Asia Minor. To expell which, Richard the First, King of England, and PhilUp, King of France, and the King of Cyprus, went in person to Jheru- salem, and woon many things from the infidells ; but the event was the Sarazens kept it, and doe so to this day ; yet they suffer divers Christians (paying greate tribute) to dwell there. Whei'e there are now 3 religious houses, if not more, where are fryars, whose cheife hvelihood is the shewing of our Sa- viour's toombe, and other reliques of antiquity, to such as com thither, Arabia lys south from Palestina, divided into 3 parts : the south part^ which is very fruitfull, call'd Felix ; the part betweene boath called Petrosa ; that wherin the Israehts wandred called Deserta, haveing in it few if any inhabitants ; few in Arabia Petrosa: but the other full of good things, frankinsence, balmes, myrhe, spices, pretious stones, &c. Mahomet was borne here, and but of mean parent- age ; bred up in merchandize ; but he soone left that trade, and accompanyed himselfe with theives, by which meanes he had got to himselfe a greate number of men ; to whom a whole legion of the Roman souldyers at on time revolted for want of their pay from Heraclitus : so that now he had a great army. DECEMBER 1675. 126 with the which he began to spoyle the count rys ad- joy ning, which was in the year 600 or therabonts. To maintaine his repute among his souldyers he pretended (in fitts of the falling-sicknes, to which he was much addicted,) to have conferrence with the Holy-Ghost. Then he ordained among them a new religion, consisting of Christian doctrines, Jewish ceremony s, and som things of his own invention. The booke he called the Alcaron ; and estabhsht it death for any man to dispute of, or to question any thing in it, as coming from above. He lived a very lascivious life ; and was buryed (as som say) at Mecha, in honour of whom there is built a stately temple, to which the Turks and Sara- zens from all parts goe every yeare on pilgrimage, (as they would have you believe, and many of the poorer sort doe believe so themselves,) but the truth is, their goeing is for merchandizing ; for at that time of the yeare there is a very great mart or fay re kept there, for all commodity s that com from the East Indys. But Mahomet himselfe, and Omer, and Halay, ly all in a little chappell at Medyna, built for that same purpose; where, as it is the generall report, are 3000 lamps constantly burning ; and at the head of Mahomett's tombe a pretiouse stone of woonderfuU bignes. His Sectarys were the seede of Hagar (the hand- mayd of Sarah, Abraham's wife,) and Ishmael her sonn; and should have been called Hagarens or Ish- maelits ; but, because they would not be thought to be borne of a bond woman, nor to descend from DECEMBER 1675. 127 on that was thought to be a bastard, they calld themselves Sarazens. When Christ said to his dissiples, ' I will send the Comforter to you,' the Turks say, that there was added— ivhich is Mahomet, and that the Christians for spite have rased out those words. He promisd to rise againe after 800 yeares, but is not com yet. By this time our cloaths are well nigh dry; to which I returne. 20 And so wee find it a very fayre day, wherin wee dry our sayles and our bedding, (for all was wett,) veryfying the proverb. After a storm comes a calme. 21 A fresh gale all the last night; and wee stand north east ; yet wee can see no land. At 3 in the afler-noone wee thought wee had made som land, and tooke it to be the west end of Candia ; but it proved to be only a fogg-bank. 22 23 Very warme and fayre days, as if twere Midsum- mer. But no land. 24 Very ruffe to day. No land yet. Our decks are washt for Chrismas. 25 Chrismas day wee keepe thus. At 4 in the morn- ing our trumpeters ail doe flatt their trumpetts, and begin at our Captain's cabin, and thence to all the officers' and gentlemen's cabins ; playing a levite at each cabine doore, and bidding good morrow, wish- ing a merry Chrismas. After they goe to their station, viz. on the poope, and sound 3 levitts in honour of the morning. At 1 wee goe to prayers and sermon ; text, Zacc. ix. 9. Our Captaine had all his officers and gentlemen to dinner with him, where DECEMBEll 1675. 128 wee had excellent good fay re : a ribb of beife, plumb- puddings, minct pyes, &c. and plenty of good wines of severall sorts ; dranke healths to the King, to our wives and friends ; and ended the day with much civill myrth. (26) Summer weather. I preacht a sermon ; text, Jobe's sonns feast. 27 A very small gale, and next to a calme ; but very hot weather. 28 Wee doe see land now, but know not what land it is. 29 The land wee saw yesterday was not Candia, but 2 small ilands, Syvia and Gozo, lyinge on the east end of Candia; and also Rhodes, which we have passed by not then knowing it. 30 By reason of the smallnes of the wind, we make very little way. 31 But the wind freshening a little brought us this morning to the east end of Candia, and to Cape Solloman. This land was formerly called Creta, and som times Hecatompolis, because there was in it 100 townes and cyttys. Here stood Dedalus his labarinth, which was so cunningly composed with doores and pillars, that no man could find the way in or oute again ; till Theseus, advised by Ariadne, tooke a bottom of thred, and tyd on end at the door at which he entred, and keeping the bottom in his hand, did by that meanes goe in and kill the Mynotaure that was kept there, and cam safe out againe. Tis now called Candia. It was under the Vene- JANUAiiY 1675-6. 129 tians ; but now under the Turks, whoe tooke the greatest part of the Hand, and possessed it ; but could not take the cytty of above 20 yeares seige, but now they have it all. From hence corns much sugar candy. * On Wensday wee passed by Rhodes, lying east from Candia many leages ; which wee had thought wee had passed many days before, but wee find it otherwise. And in this iland the Knights-Templars aboade after they were driven from Jherusalem and out of the Holy Land, whose friendship was much desyred by the neighbouring Princes. And from hence they were driveii by Solyman the greate Turke in the year 1521. After which time they had the iland of Malta given them by the Pope, where they continue to this day; haveing fortifyd their iland so much, that it can hardly ever be taken from them ; and are great anoyars of the Turks. Jan. 1 The wind being fay re all night, hath brought us to the middle of Candia this morning, where abouts wee expect to see our adversarys the Trypolees every hower. A NEW-YEARES GUIFT TO OUR CAPTAINE. ACROSTICON. W — hen Phoebus did this morning first appeare, I — nriching with his beames our hemispheare, L — ^aveing the darksum night behind him^ and L— ^)nging to be at his meridian ; I — magine then the ould-yeare's out of date, A — new on unto Jove lett's dedicate— M — an should not bee like an ould almanacke. JANUARY J 675-6. 130 H — eavens guide you^ Sir^ that Paules woords may be true, O — uld things are doone a way^, all things are newe ; U — nto the rich endowments of your mind, L — ift up your noble courage : Fortune's kind D — yrections bid you forwards ; your Assistance I — s beggd by Mars for th' Trypolees resistance. N — eare man more fitt bould acts to undertake, G — od with his blessings make you fortunate. So prayes, H. T. (2) I preacht a sermon ; Exod. viii. 5, 6. No wind, nor can wee see any land ; but wee are about the west end of Candia. 3 A fayre gale now ; and wee are all buisy in write- ing letters, to England, thinking to send them by the Venetian merchant, but he being far a lee, bad us farewell afarr oft' with 5 gunns ; w^e answerd with 3. And so all our letters are left behind. 4 5 The winds unconstant boath these days ; else wee had gon to Zante. 6 Very ruff' weather all the last night, and all this day. Wee are now past Zante : had wee beene there this day, wee had scene a greate solemnity ; for this day being 1 2 Day, the Greeke Bishop of Zante doth (as they call it) baptise the sea, with a great deale of ceremony ; sprinkling their gallys and fishing-tackle with holy-water. But wee had much myrth on board, for wee had a greate kake made, in which was put a beane for the king, a pease for the queen, a cloave for the knave, a forked stick for the coockold, a ragg for the slutt. The kake was cutt into severall peices in the great cabin, and all putt into a napkin, out of which every on took his peice, as out of a lottery, JANUARY 1675-6. 131 then each peice is bioaken to see what was in it, which caused much laughter, to see our leiuetenant prove the coockold, and more to see us tumble on ov^r the other in the cabin, by reason of the ruff weather. 7 At 11 the last night the tillar of our rudder brooke just at the head of the rudder, which might have proved the losse of us all had wee beene neare the shoare ; but wee had sea-room enough, and soone put in another, and all is well. 8 Fayre, and very warme ; far unlike Chrismas weather. (9) Just when wee were ready to goe to prayers, the centry on the mayne topp discovered 6 sayles a head of us, which caused us suddenly to prepare for an ingagement. At first they boare from us, causing us the more to distrust them ; our ship and our two merchants with us kept our course ; and being now ready to receive them, or chase them (for they still boare from us), wee went to dinnej' ; but sate a very little while, when of a sudden we saw them all 6 come in a line dyrectly upon us. Our Captaine spake to boath our merchants, and appoynted them, their places, viz. the Syppio on the starboard, and the Thomas and WilHam on the larboard quarter. All things being now ready, and all our gunns being run out, and by this time almost ready to meete, our colours being out neare an houre before ; our ship leaves her merchants a good way a starne, and goes bouldly herselfe single upon them all 6 ; which when Sir Robt. Strickland in the Dragon saw, says he K 2 JANUARY 1675-6. 132 These can be no other but the English, they com on so bravely. And now being just ready to give fyre, wee know the Dragon by her broaken head, and so know them to be our friends, viz. the Dragon, Darth- mouth, and 4 merchants coming from Smyrna. Our fight soone turned to a great deale of myrth, haveing mett with our friends, and finding them safe after so longe absence. This was betweene Zante and Malta much about the midway, and wee sayle merry all 9 10 to Malta; not fearing all Trypoly had they beene together. At 3 a clock I borrowed a bottle of wine of Mr. Veiige to welcom my cusen Pickering. 1 1 This morning wee see the famous iland of Malta ; coming under Goza, a small iland adjoyning to Malta, wee discover a sayle creeping closse to the shoare ; wee hayle her with a shott — she would not budge ; wee sent a 2d, and then a 3d, falling very neareher; then the leiuetenant cam aboard us and payd for the shott : it proved a pittifuU Frenchman. 12 A little after on a clock wee are at anchor in Malta harbour, and have many salutes. But wee have no prattick by the reason of the plague which is begun heare. 1 3 This evening cam in the Dartmouth, with severall salutes; and in the night a ship of Malta cam in from Fraunce. 1.4 Wee are makeing ready to sayle againe ; but know not whither yet. 1 5 This morning wee warp out of the harbour, with 6 merchantmen and a doggar, which wee are to con- voy towards the Straits mouth. Here also wee took JANUARY 1675-6. 133 in 2 mounths provision, and fresh water. And as wee goe out, wee meete 6 gallys of Malta, coming in in all their pompe, and they salute us, and wee them, and part. And heare at Malta (which was very strainge to mee) at this time of the yeare wee bought radishes, cabbidges, and excellent colly flowers, and large ons for Id. a peice. (16) I preacht a sermon; text, Exod. viii. 6 ; and to- wards evening wee are betweene SiciUia and Pan- talaria. 17 Now under Sycillia, and the weather could and stormy. 18 Wee discover a boate coming somtimes longe ways, somtimes syd ways ; at last perceiveing no on in her, wee sent our pinnace, and tooke her up, for shee was a drift, and was worth at least 10 pounds. 19 Very turbulent weather to day, and cold also. 20 This day promising so fayre, our letters and tokens are put on board the London Merchant to goe to England by Lygorne ; and others are put on board the Syppio, least wee should not have another opor- tunity. 21 This morning departed from us the London Mer- chant, and the Owen and David, for Lygorne ; each saluting us, and wee them. 22 This morning being somthing calme gives our olde companions Captaine Mauris and Captaine North leave to com on board us, to take their leave of our Captaine. They dine with us ; and wee drinke aU. our wives healths in England in severall sorts of wines. At last they drink Snt. George, and goe to JANUARY 1675-6. 134 their shipps. I sent by Captaine Mauris letters, and such tokens as I then had, to my friends in England; som to London, som to Spernall. (23) I preacht a sermon ; Exod. viii. 6. The sun is extreamly hott upon us. Wee are in sight of Sar- dinia, and much about Calary Bay. At 6 at night wee take leave of our 4 merchants, wishing them safe to England : each of them saluting us, and wee them, intending to leave them at 12 a clock if the wind serves. At which time the wind freshning wee tack about, and give them all 5 gunns, and bad them all addue, wishing them a safe arrival to England ; and each of them, to shew their thank- fullnes, gave us 5 gunns. Our noble Captaine bids addue once more To all his convoy : five gunns fyred roare And eccho loud from the Sardinian shoare Ten thousand farewells to his Commodore : Whoe hearing this, with thanks and sighs good stoare. Sends back ten thousand, and ten thousand more. 24' Now wee stand east ; and have a fay re gale for Malta. 25 Summar weather, and our seamen begin to put off their coats and stockings. Just as wee are called to dinner wee discover 8 sayles afar off: wee make a cleare ship, but they would not com neare us. They were French and Spaniards. 26 A very greate grampus playd about our ship aU this morning, woondring what greate fish our ship was. She could not be lesse then 50 yards in length. Our Captaine began to be much afraid of her, but at JANUARY 1675-6. 135 last she went a way, throing up the water out of her nose higher then our top mast. 27 Now wee see Zembre and Cape Bona on the Bar- barian shoare. 28 And now wee have Pantalarya on the starboard, and Sycillia on the larboard syd. 29 Now wee are at the poynt of Goza, which is a member of Malta, a place of greate strength. This day David Thomas, and Marlin the coock, and our master's boy, had their hand stretched out, and with their backs to the rayles, and the master's boy with his back to the maine mast, all looking on upon the other, and in each of their mouths a maudlen-spike, viz. an iron pinn clapt closse into their mouths, and tyd behind their heads ; and there they stood a whole houre, till their mouths were very bloody : an ex- cellent cure for swearers. (30) By 8 wee are at anchor in the harbour at Malta ; where the Ginny and the Martin salute us with 5 gunns a peice ; wee answer with 3 to each. Here wee are tolde of the joyfuU news of Sir John's burn- ing of 4 Trypoly men of warr in their owne harbour ; and how wee tooke their guard boate first, and killed all that were in her, and so went in, and fyred the ships, and cam out againe with out any man being hurt. No sermon to day, our Captaine not being well. The plague is in the cytty, so that wee have no prattick. This day being the day of our King's marterdome, wee shew all the signes of morning as possible wee can, viz. our jacks and flaggs only halfe staff high ; and at JANUARY 1675-6. 136 5 a clock in the afternoone our ship fyred 20 gunns ; the trumpetts at the close ringing the bells on the trumpetts very dolefully, and also the gunns fyreing at halfe a minute distance. Then the Uartmouth fyre 18 gunns at the same distance, and their trumpetts also the same ; and our 2 merchants fyred 1 () a peice. After all our trumpetts sounded WeU-a-day, the Dartmouth did the same, and so wee ended the day mornfuUy ; which made the Maltees much woonder, till they understood the reason of it. 31 At 3 a clock in the afternoone all the 7 gallys cam out of their byrths, and gave a yolly of small shott, and tooke a new byrth just by the stares that goe up into the cytty. They intended to goe out in the evening, supposing they had scene 3 Argeareens, but they were English shipps, viz. Sir John Berry in the Bristoll, and 2 merchants with him, whom wee all salute at his coming in ; who is also saluted by the towne, and the Gallys. Feb. 1 Very fayer weather ; and wee send our vessells on ' shoare to sweeten before they be filled. Here wee heare of the Gaulands forcing the Admirall ship of Sally on shoare. So that wee are stiU conquerours. 2 3 Fayre weather. The 7 Maltees gallys com to the mouth of their harbour only to shew themselves, and then clap upon a wind, and goe to sea againe ; but by 12 a clock they com all into their harbour, and make a gallant shoe, and returne to their byrths againe. 4 This day dined with us Sir Roger Strickland, Cap- FEBRUARY 1675-6. 137 taine Temple, Captaine Harrice, ^^ and on gentleman more. Wee had a gallant baked pudding, an excel- lent legg of porke and coUiflowers, an excellent dish made of piggs' petti-toes, 2 rosted piggs, on turkey- cock, a rosted hogg's head, 3 ducks, a dish of Cyprus burds, and pistachoes and dates together, and store of good wines. 5 God blesse those that are at sea ! The weather is very bad. (6) Bad weather still. No sermon to day ; the Cap- taine not well. 7 I dined on board the Gynny ; and had harty wel- com. 8 Bad weather ; Deo gratias that wee are in a safe harbour ! 9 Our Captaine is busy on shoare in makeing a new wharfe. 10 The Swan cam in hither from Lygorne. 1 1 Sir John Narborough cam in from Trypoly, and 4 more ships with him. The noble Maltees salute him with 45 gunns ; he answers them with so many that I could not count them. And what with our salutes *^ He was lieutenant of the Sweepstakes yachts and after- wards of the St. George in 1673. In the course of the same year he was promoted to the command of the Cutter sloop. In 1675 he was made lieutenant of the Guernsey, and on the 31st of August following. Sir John Narborough, then Commander in Chief in the Mediterranean, appointed him Captain of the Ems- worth sloop. His next appointment was on the 25th April, 1688, when he was promoted by James II. to the command of the Sampson fire-ship. FEBRUARY 1675-6. 138 and his answers there was nothing but fyre and smoake for almost 2 howers. 12 To day cam in the Henrietta also from Trypoly. (13) Wee are all mustared by 7 this morning. I preacht a sermon ; Exod. viii. 6. It is a brave sight to see all our fleete this day ; 9 frigotts, 2 fyre -ships, 6 merchants. Jacks and flaggs out, and pendents on every yard arme. 14 I went on board the Admirall to visitt Doctor Franklen, who went with mee to the Dartmouth, and thence to the Ginny to see Captaine Harman,^*^ where wee had good welcom at boath places ; and so returnd to our owne shipps. ^° This gentleman was the son of Admiral Sir John Harmau, a brave and able officer. He was appointed second lieutenant of the Montague in 1672^, and in the following year was promoted to be first lieutenant of the St. George. Early in 1673 he was made Commander of the Guernsey, and in the autumn of that year removed into the Bristol, in which ship he continued until the 17th of March, 1676, when he was again appointed to the Guernsey. Being sent to the Streights soon afterwards he fell , in, on the 19th of January, 1677^ with the White Horse, a ship of war belonging to Algiers. She was the largest at that time be- longing to that piratical State, carrying 50 guns and 500 men, while the Guernsey had only 26 guns and 110 men. The Alge- rine twice attempted to board Captain Harman, and was as often repulsed; and at length, after receiving considerable damage, took advantage of the wind and sheered off. The loss on board the Guernsey was only nine men, including their intrepid Comman- der, who received three wounds with musket-balls at different periods of the action, and towards the conclusion of it a despe- rate contusion from a cannon-shot. He nevertheless continued to command, till, senseless with pain and loss of blood, he feU speechless on the deck. He did not, however, die till three days afterwards. FEBRUARY 1675-G. 139 15 The Grand Master cam to visit our Admiral!, whoe gave him 1 1 gunns. 16 I bought a wigg of Mr. Selby for 3 dollars, aUd som S} racosa wine ; and a hatt cost 3 dollars. 17 18 Very bad weather for wind and raine. 19 This day cam in the Porchmouth to the joy of us all, for wee all gave her over for lost. Shee brought with her also a sattee, which she had taken from the Turkes. (20) I preacht my first sermon on the Lord's Prayer. 2 1 All our fore top sayles are loose, to sayle ; but the wind is so dyrectly contrary, that wee can not get out of the harbour. 22 This day wee saw a greate deale of solemnity at the lanching of a new bryganteene of 23 oares, built on the shoare very neare the water. They hoysted 3 flaggs in her yesterday, and this day by 12 they had turnd her head neare the water; when as a greate multitude of people gathered together, with severall of their knights and men of quality, and a clowd of fryars, and churchmen. They were at least 2 howers in their benedictions, in the nature of hymns or anthems, and other their ceremonys ; their tnimpetts and other musick playing often. At last 2 friars and an attendant went in to her, and kneeling downe prayd halfe an howre, and layd their hands on every mast, and other places of the vessell, and sprinkled her all over with holy water. Then they cam out and hoysted a pendent, to signify shee was a man of warr ; and then at once thrust her into the water, where shee no sooner was, but they fyred 21 FEBRUARY 1675-6, 140 chambers, and rowed to our Admirall and gave him a gunn, whoe gave them another. Then she went into the cove where all their gallys lye, and was welcomed with abundance of gunns. And there are 4 more just ready to be launched, all for the coasts of Trypoly. 23 At 5 this morning our Admirall fyred a gunn, the signall for sayling ; wee all towed out by 10 a clock. Wee are now a gallant fleete ; 13 sayle went out to- gether, and 2 more follow us this evening. The Henrietta wee leave to goe for England, and the Dragon on the careene. Never were there so many English friggotts together in that harbour before. Severall noyses of trumpetts sownd as wee passe, and many peales of lowd cannons salute on another, causing a multitude of all sorts of people to stand on boath syds of the harbour, on the topps of their walls, to see our gallant shoe. Wee are all for Try- poly, and resolved for mischeife. And if those gal- lants of Malta doe so much admyre us, certaynly wee shall much terrify the Turkes. 24 The Portchmouth cam out last night. Wee stand for Trypoly ; 14 brave shipps, and stand almost in a line. 25 By 10 this morning, by a pendent on the mizon peake, our Admirall calls all the captaines to a con- sultation ; for wee had before scene the eastern coasts of Trypoly. With in an hower each of them was on board againe. But the wind rose this afternoone on a sud- den, and hindred our designe. FEBRUARY 1675-6. 141 26 The wind high, and the seas very ruff ; wee are blowne at the least 30 leages norward, and scarce 3 shipps together. (27) The wind now more mild, and our fleete begins to gather together. I preacht a sermon. Wee had at dinner a dish of greene beanes and pease, brought from Malta. 28 Wee see Try poly once more, but only 4 of our shipps are together ; but all the rest com in by night, and lye before Try poly. There cam presently a briganteene to our Admirall, to treat for peace ; for they are much terrifyd to see so many of us there : and our Admirall sends his boate on shoare to the towne with instructions. Wee can see but on ship lye in their harbour, but many more may lye in there undiscovered, under their Mandrake, as they call it. 29 It hath beene very tempestuous all night, and so continues. Wee may suppose their Marabotts are at woork to drive us from their coasts ; but God is above the Devill.^^ This morning I buried on of our ^' The worthy chaplain seems by no means an exception to the credulous and superstitious feeling which frequently cast a shade over even the more intelligent minds of the age in which he lived. That the belief in the reality of witchcraft itself was not en- tirely exploded^ even by the learned^, so late as the end of the seventeenth century^, Teonge^, who was certainly an educated/ intelligent and liberal-minded man, affords us in more than one instance evident proof. This propensity of our author's for the marvellous would by no means be weakened by the opinions and habits of those amongst whom he was placed, as sailors, usually the boldest men alive, are yet frequently the very abject slaves of superstitious fear. '' Innumerable," says Scott, MARCH 1675-6. 142 men in the sea : it was the tayler of the gnnn-roome, and had beene sick a longe while. March 1 The seas are extreamly ruff, and wee are at least J 6 leages from Trypoly. Wee dare not com neare the shoare till the weather be better. 2 Wee stand in all for Trypoly againe ; at 12 a clock, thanks be to God ! wee see all our fleete safe together, but are at least 14 leages from Trypoly. 3 The old proverb is true — After a storme coms a calme. It was so calm all the last night, that many of our shipps had like to have ran on shoare. 4 This morning wee are all closse before Trypoly, and I suppose this will be joy full Satterday to them ; for boath the King and Queene of Tunis have beene at Trypoly ever since wee burnt their shipps ; and in his Work on Witchcraft, p. 53, ^' are the tales of wonder among such as frequent the seas, about the noises, flashes, shadows, echoes, and other visible appearances and noises nightly seen and heard upon the water :" and Dr. Pegge says, '^ Our sailors, I am told, at this very day (I mean the vulgar sort), have a strange opinion of the Devil's power and agency in stirring up winds, and that is the reason they so seldom whistle on ship board, esteeming that to be a mocking, and consequently an enraging, of the Devil." Andrews, in his Anecdotes, says, " Superstition and profane- ness, those extremes of human conduct, are too often found united in the sailor, and the man who dreads the stormy eflPects of drowning a cat, or of whistling a country dance, while he leans over the gunwale, will too often wantonly defy his Crea- tor by the most daring imprecations, and the most licentious behaviour." Among a host of others, there is a very singular marine su- perstition, noted in Petronius Arbiter, namely, '' that no person in a ship must pare his nails or cut his hair, except in a storm :" to have a corpse in the vessel is also ominous ; so it is to lose a water-bucket or a mop, or to throw a cat overboard. Childreiii are deemed lucky to a ship. — Brand's Popular Antiquities. MARCH 1675-6. 143 are to goe to the Greate Tiirke for ayd against those that have driven them from thence. They have de- syred a convoy from our Admiral!, and will make a peace betweene us and Trypoly. His name is Hop- siby, and tis related that he hath 700 concubines. At on a clock cam a halfe-gally to our Admirall, and saluted him with all her gunns ; our Admirall thanked him with 11, and then lett fly all his pen- dents. At 5 a clock boath the bryganteene and the half-gally went ofFe, and our Admirall gave them 1 1 gunns ; and the halfe gaily gave all shee had ; but still our AdmiraU did out doe them in civihty. The Bristow gave them 9, and the Portchmouth 9, as they went by them. With in the harbour the King of Tunnis his ship saluted them with 8 gunns, and the shoare saluted them with 10, as I counted them ; but the peace is not yet fully concluded. (5) No prayers to day by reason of buisnes. The peace, as it is sayd, is concluded ; the King of Tunnis being the only agent in it. The Trypolees are to give us 80,000 peices of eight, and to release all the slaves that belonge to the crowne of England, and to release 4 merchants of Lygorne, and a knight of Malta ; yet these must pay a certaine summ of monys : and this did bite sore, for betweene the Maltees and the Turks this is their absolute law, that whoso- ever of them is taken in actuall armes is never to be ransumed. Tis the most honourable peace that ever yet was made wdth the Turks. They were very loath to pay any monys, but were so affrited at our bold attempt MARCH 1675-6- 144 in burninge their ships, and also as much to see our fyre-shipps there, that they were forced to graunte what our Admirall would have, Soone after 12 the King of Trypoly sent off the knight of Malta, and the gentlemen of Lygome and severall others ; and when the gaily went from shoare, the towne began, and fyred aU their gunns round about the towne. After they had done, our Admirall began and fyred 21 gunns, and every ship in the fleet fyred accordingly ; so that for 2 howers there was nothing but smoake and fyre, and trumpetts sownding and cannons rooreing. It was a very joy full day to Try poly. 6 This day nothing but presents from shoare, and salutes from our shipps. There cam to our ship, on bullock, on sheep, 2 lambs, 2 basketts of oringes, bread, and saUetts. 7 This morning the peace was almost broake off againe ; in so much that Sir John proferd to pay for all the fresh provisions that cam off, and was sending the slaves on shoare againe ; but by night all was well againe. 8 The articles are now all signed on boath syds ; and the Trypolees sent off the articles, and at 5 in the morning fyred all the gunns about their cytty twice over, which was answered by all our fleete ; and the peace is absolutely ratifyd. At 8 a clock our ship takes leave of Sir John, and salutes him with 1 1 gunns and 3 cheares ; and he nobly saluts us with as many: wee retume him thanks with 5, and so part ; and our ship with the MARCH 1675-6. 145 Dartmoutli and 3 merchant ships stand for Scan- deroond. This day I began to make buttons for som new cloaths. 9 10 Very stormy weather boath these days. 1 1 This day wee passe by the famous iland of Malta : the Dartmouth went in and told the news of the peace ; at which there was greate rejoycing ; and 6 EngUsh ships cam out presently and sayled away: som of them for England. (12) Not such a day for raine and wind since wee cam out of England ; prayers, but no sermon. 13 14 15 As bad blowing weather all these days ; yet wee keepe together. 16 Thanks be to God, wee have better weather, and a fayrer wind. 17 A fayre day, and wee are betweene Malta and Zante. This day I dranke part of a bottle of Deale ale. 18 My byrth day; nat. 55. Wee have fayre wind and weather. (19) Now betweene Zante and Candia, with a fayre wind. I preacht a sermon of obedience to our Father. 20 Fayre weather, but a scant wind. Wee see no land. The last night a ship cam very neare us, which so soone as ever shee discoverd us tackt off much affrited. 21 Under Goza and Anti-Goza wee are calmed for 2 howers. 22 This evening wee are at the west end of Candia. High land. L MARCH 1675-6. 146 23 Overagainst the hill on which stood Diana's temple. 24 Wee had the service of the day, being Good Fry- day. This day Mr. Dawes brought mee my new coate. 25 Our Lady Day. Past the east end of Candia ; 1676. and a fresh gale. (26) Good Easter Day. I preacht a sermon; Marke xvi. 9. And prayers in the afternoone. 27 This morning wee discover 2 ships which were coming upon us ; but as soone as wee tackt upon them, they tackt cleare from us, and made from us as fast as they could. They must needs be Try- polees, for they cam dyrectly from Alexandria, and non but Trypolees could be there about, 28 A crosse wind the last night brought from the Hand of Cyprus an infinite number of hawkes among our shipps. There were taken at least 50 in our ship ; and wee are driven very neare the coasts of Egypt. But now a fay re gale. 29 Wee discover the west end of Cyprus, but far off. Since yesterday 12 a clock to 6 this evening wee have runn 200 miles. 30 The wind is so crosse that wee can not com to the anchoring place. 31 At 8 wee com to an anchor in the bay of Saline ; and are saluted by our merchants with 7, 5 — 5 gunns. About 10 I went a shoare, the sea being very ruff. The fort, standing neare the water, and faceing MARCH 1676. 147 the roade, is very inconsiderable ; havein not above 9 pittifiiU gimns in it. Uppon the Mareene stands a small towne, con- sisting of coffee-houses, and shopps, and ware-houses, and other places where wine is to he sould. In the middle of the streete lay severall hundredds of hogg- skins full of wines, which at the first sight I tooke for so many singed hoggs. At the west end of the village stands a very ancient Greeke church ; where Snt. Paule preacht the GhospeU of Jesus Christ. The place is kept very decent ; the church stands east and west ; as also stand all the Turks mosks, and they all bury east and west. Tis built as it were in the forme of a trebble crosse : not a window in the church ; for tis lighted with lamps and torches, som of which are continually burning. There is a south doore, the usuall entrance ; and a north, not so much used ; but only to goe out at into that part of the church yard; where are severall stones layd over severall graves ; som are English. On the right hand as soone as you com into the Church is the picture of Snt. George ; of our Saviour Christ ; the Virgin Mary, with the babe in her armes ; Snt. John, and many more. In the east end stands the altar in the middle of the chancell ; so that you may goe round about it. And on the altar lyes a golden crosse ; and certaine greate kakes of white bread (^as I tooke them to be) covered with a fine linnen cloth ; yet so, as that you might easily l2 MARCH 1676. 148 see the syds of them ; and som old bookes on on end of the altar. And betweene the altar and the wall at the very east of all is the sepulchre of Lazarus. I went downe into it; tis for length and breadth much like a saw-pitt, and so low that when you are in it you must almost creepe, and much a doe to get into it, but more to get out againe ; the stares being all worne away. And in on syd of the Church, viz. on the south syde, and towards the west end, hangs up part of a strange kinde of a small boate, which they say was the vessell in which Lazarus escaped when he cam to that iland. Over his sepulchre lyes on peice only of an old gravestone ; on which are some caracters, which seeme to have beene old Greeke caracters ; but so overwome that you can not understand any thing by them. West from this, about a little mile, stands Larneca; a plesant walke leading to it ; and is of itselfe a pleasant village, beautifyd with sever all handsom structures, such as that country affords ; where wee had good entertainment^ and excellent muskadell at our Consull's house. The feilds have Httle grasse therabout, but are overgrowne with camamile, mari- golds, muscovy, &c. And great store of caper bushes, palm trees, almond trees, and olives ; and such plenty of tyme, and so bigg growne, that the people stock it up to burne, as wee doe furse or ghosse. Excellent wines, white and red, which they make in the mountaine, and bring it downe in hogg-skins, like little ferkins. APRIL 167G. 149 Aprill 1 Last night tempestuous ; and still cold and stormy weather. (2) I preacht a sermon on the word, Father. We must live to him. Wee had severall Turks and Greeks on board ; som of them seemed very devout with us, but all very civill, 3 A summer's day. 4 this evening wee sayle for Scanderoond. 5 Wee have an indifferent fayre gale : wee easily see the Mount Lebanon, whose top is all covered with snow at this time. Wee are entring on the bay where stands Fa- 62 ^^ Famagusta is situated on the eastern side of the island^ and is the principal port. The city is built entirely on a rock^ and is two miles in circumference ; the walls are thick^ strongly built and flat on the top. They are surrounded by a deep ditch cut out of the solid rock^ and are flanked by twelve enormous towers^ the sides of which are four paces in thickness^ and inclose a circle five paces in diameter. In the interior of the city there is a PharoS;, three bastions and a rampart^ and also a strong citadel. There are two drawbridges^ one on the land side^, the other to- wards the sea; the latter conducts to the harbour which is ex- tremely narrow^ and is shut every evening by a chain thrown across its mouth. The entrance of it is forbidden except to un- loaded vessels^ on account of the bason being nearly filled up. It is defended on the east side by a chain of rocks which prevent the sea from entering with impetuosity, and on this account aflfords a very safe shelter for shipping; Captains therefore ge- nerally bring their vessels here to be hove down and refitted. It has little or no trade, and provisions are consequently abundant and very cheap. — Mariti, i. 133. According to Pocock, the great piazza in the principal square has been a beautiful design, having the house of the Governor, which is ornamented with a grand portico before it, on the one side, and the church of St. Sophia, a magnificent gothic building. APKiL 1676. 150 jmagosta ; at 12 wee can plainly see it, and ships lying in their harbour. 7 A crosse wind will not suffer us to goe our course, but halte closse under the Mount Lebanon ; where to this day remaine standing many of the olde cedars which were before the flood. This evening I buryed in the sea, Mr. Symon Selby, whoe dyed of a con- sumption. 8 Wee are in sight of Cape Porcos ; but with a crosse wind ; and this day wee have scene 3 severall winds among our 5 ships, and all blowing at on time. I made my sheetes ; and this is the first night that I lay in sheetes, since I cam from England. (9) Wee are entred into the great bay that leads to Scanderoond. The buisnes of our ship hinders our devotions. 10 At 3 in the morning wee are towed in ; and at 7 wee com to an anchor in the roade. Where wee find the Martin which wee thought had beene lost ; and 2 ships more. Each of them saluted us with 5 . gunns ; whom wee answered with 3 apeice. No sooner were wee at anchor, but our Consull, and Mr. Betten, cam on board us, and received us joy- fully ; whom wee saluted with 7 gunns. Our other 4 ships cam in after us, all saluteing on another ; so that this day will be nothinge but salutes, visitts, and jolitys. now converted into a mosque, on the other ; more than two thirds of it were, however, thrown down by an earthquake which destroyed the greatest part of the city and a considerable number of the inhabitants in the year l^SS.-^Pocock^ vol. ii. p. i. 215. APRIL 1670. 151 11 I went a shoare. Wliere our Captaine and som other gentlemen did redeeme the widdow the liberty of selling wine. I was my dollar. 1 2 Thousands of flemingoes flye all about the bay to day: they are blew and bow - dye ; bigger then a swan, and as tall as a man ; and som say they por- tend ill weather. 13 I went a shoare to prepare for Aleppo ; and dined with our Consull. 14 All our Captaines and Consull dine with us; and are very merry. 15 At 4 this morning the Alopeene and Ormand goe hence for England. (16) Prayers but no sermon ; for our Captaine went a shoare to be ghossip to on of our Consull's servants' child. 17 A very blustering day. And this is (as it is called by our sea men) the last day of Lent ; that is, the day wheron the last boyling of the beife that was bought at Cyprus, was flung over board; for the meate was so bad, that they chose rather to eate bread dry, then to eate that meate. That was much to our Purser's discreditt. 18. Bad weather, and a greate flock of flemingoes com amonge our ships ; a signe of more bad weather 19 still. Bad weather this day. 20 Fayre weather, and wee goe in nearer the shoare. A peice of an army, viz. 2000, cam the last night to Scanderoond ; and piched their tents closse to the towne. The Gaw, and the Greate Bashaw cam to see our ship ; whom wee salute with 5 gunns and 3 APRIL 1676. J 52 cheares. This Bashaw is com from Egypt, from Gi^and Cayre; and is going to Constantinople to marry the Grand Senior's sister ; and these men are his guard. 21 22 Extreame hott wether boath these days. And wind at night. (23) Snt. George his day. Just when wee were going to prayers the wind rose so suddenly that our men were all busy in loareing yards and looking to the anchors. So that prayer time is past. At 12 a clock a Maltees man of warr, of 16 gunns and 30 petarreroes, cam into the bay; whoe haveing taken som sikes from the Turks on those coasts, cam to an anchor, and put out a white ancient, and fyred a gunn ; to signify that the Turks might com to him, and redeem e, or buy his prizes of him. Our Con- suU and the Gaw dined with us ; and after dinner at the King's health wee fyre 25 gunns ; all the other ships after, fyred gunns accordingly. And at the Gawe's goeing off our ship gave him 9 gunns ; the Dartmouth 7 ; and the merchants 5 a peice. AH very merryc 24 This day the Dartmouth (being so ordered by our Captaine) went and anchored closse by the Malteese, whoe saluted him with 7 gunns ; the Dartmouth answered him with 7 more. And at 4 in the after- noone the Maltees lieutenant cam on board us, and was courteously entertayned by our Captaine. The name of their ship is the Snt. Peter ; and the com- mander's name, Cavalier Dentershaud. APRIL 1676. 153 25 I went a shoare ; wher I found a man and horse, and a tent provided for mee to goe up to Aleppo. 26 27 Very tempestuous ; so that though I went a shoare, I was at night faine to com aboard againe. 28 I went a shoare againe ; where I found our Cap- taines counting their monys for Aleppo, but there wee stay all night. 29 This day about 10 of the clock, Captaine Har- man of the Gynny and my selfe, and a Janizary, and his man, and my man, doe begin our jurny to- wards Aleppo. At a place calld By land, about 10 miles from Scanderoond wee dine, at an olde Greek's house, with good mutton steaks; and drank good wine, and payd a dollar. Tis a very strange built towne, standing uppon cliffs of rocks ; on house as it were on the top of another, for 6 or 7 houses high ; like pigion holes at a house end : so that it is a very difficult thing to finde the passage from on house to another, and as dangerouse for a man to goe it when he hath found it. About 6 or 8 miles from hence wee passe over a small bridge, by which stands a little howse, where you must call, and drink a dish of coffee, and give them halfe a dollar at least. Passing from hence, wee soone overtake our carevan, viz. a company of carriers of at least 600, every on haveing som armes ; and besyds them about 50 armed souldyers, which are our guard. In a plaine they all stay, throe downe the burdens from the cattell, and turne them up to feede. The Captaine and I have a tent piched over us ; an old APRIL 1676. 154 Turkey carpet spread under, and a rowle of matting layd to lay our heads on. But what with the fleas and lyce that were in that carpett, and the froggs that were croakeing all about us, as also the hoote- ing of the jack-calls, I could not sleepe on winke, but wee sat up and drank wine and brandee, of which wee brought good store with us ; and there I did eat poUoe with the Turkes. (30) By two in the morne wee are on horsback againe, and com to the plaines of Antioch ; a rich soyle, and a plaine of at least 50 miles longe, full of fish and strainge foules ; and grasse almost up to the horse bellys, but no beasts to eate it, save here and there a few bufFeloes ; a strange kind of beast ; his body is as big as an ox, color black, but the head and horns standing forward, hogg-like, and very ugly. These the people use as wee doe cowes, of which there are very few. Haveing rod a longe way in this plaine, wee com at the last to a small village, the worst that ever I ^ saw ; the houses being of nothing but reedes, and peices of the barke of trees covering the tops of them in the nature of hoUow tyles. Tis inhabited by Arabeans, whoe have abundance of these buflfeloes, and som few cowes, hoggs, som sheepe, and abun- dance of henns. Heare very neare to the houses are abundance of bufFeloe calves, every on of them tyd (like so many beares) to a stake, where I suppose they give them milke. The people were many of them milking these cattell when the Captaine, and I, and our Janizary cam thither ; for our Janizary had a friend lay there, which he was to caU on, and he APRIL 1670. 155 brought us out of the way to that place. And many foule women were makeing of butter of the bufFeloes milke, which they put into a calf's skin, or hogg's skin, and so doe rowle it, and kneade it on the ground till it be a substance, more like greace then butter boath for looks and taste ; for the cheife lady of the towne (as I suppose by her habite) presented us with som of it^ and a little of that would goe farr. This Arabian lady was taU, and very slender, very sworfy of complexion, and very thinn faced ; as they all generally : haveing nothing on but a thinn loose garment, a kinde of a gyrdle about her middle, and the garment open before. She had a ringe in her left nostril], which hung (fowne below her nether lipp ; at each eare a round globe as bigg as a tennis ball, shining Hke gold, and hanging (in chaines that lookt like gold) almost as low as her brest, which you might easily see, and loath them for their ugly yellowish colour. She had also gold chaines about her wrists, and the smalls of her naked leggs. Her nayles of her fingers were coloured almost redd, and her lipps colourd as blew as indego ; and so also was her belly from the navill to her hamms, painted with blew like branches of trees, or strawbury leaves. Nor was she cautious, but rather ambitious to shew you this sight ; as the only raryty of their sex or country. The rest of the women were all alike for their painting in all places, but farr fowler. But wee did not more admyre their guarbe than they did us, and our swords, crowding after us to looke on us and our swords, till wee were faine to betake our selves to our horses. APRIL 1676. 156 About 12 wee rest ourselves a little under our tent in a pleasant plaine and by a springe. Where were severall tombs neare us, but not a house to be seene : but ruined cyttys on every hill syd all alonge as wee passe by. About 6 a clock, I (being the foremost of all neare halfe a mile, for I was very weary with rideing in such a strange saddle) discovered a blew tent above a mile from us in a vally, on the very syd of the banke by the river Ephraim. I stay till the Captaine coms up ; and wee then see that it was the noble Alo- peenes, who had com thither 30 miles on purpose to meete us, and had bine here 2 days already. Here wee rested all night, and had excellent accomodation, but had no sleepe ; and for that wee might thank our selves. And in this river Ephraim, with a casting nett, I tooke 2 fishes, of which on was a foote longe, and much like a chubb. May 1 About two of the clock in the morning (spending but small time in dressing, for wee did but get up and shake us), wee mount againe, and were glad wee had all our horses safe ; for som of them had like to have beene stolen, though 6 men were sett on purpose to watch them. Wee expected bad weather, by reason of thunder a far off, but it did not reach us. Have- ing rod neare 3 howers on good plaine ground, wee cam to the foote of the rockey mountaines ; such way as I never rod, nor never heard of till I cam thither : nor could I have thought any horse, or other beast, carrying any loade, could possibly have gon over such a place. In som places you ascend a steepe hill for a mile together, and somtimes de- MAY 1676. 157 scend as steepe, and as far: somtimes you passe over broade stones, as slippery as glasse, for 20 yards together; and somtimes goeing in and out, turning about greate stones, and stepping over others ; and somtimes goeing up, or down stepps of slippery stones, like walls, able to throe, or breake the leggs of any beast : such travelling as I covdd not have beheved had I not seene it. And this for 5 or 6 howers together. But those country horses, being accustomed to it, will carry you without stumbling, over them all, if you will but give them the bridle. And as wee passed over these rockey mountaines wee saw the ruines of severall stately cyttys, where part of the churches were remaining, and som inscrip- tions over the doores, but I could not reade them. At the last wee cam to a little towne called Hanjarr, where were som good houses, and a greate moske. But wee durst not goe to any house in the towne for feare of lyce, of which cattell the Turks have greate store ; but wee pitched our tent neare the towne, and had som Turkish foode brought to us, which was as bad as it was deare. Here wee rest two houres, and then mounted againe, and having rod about 1 miles farther, wee cam to the topp of a hill, beyond which about a mile and a halfe stands the cytty of Aleppo ; to which wee cam about 5 of the clock. Where as soone as wee were com to the enterance into the towne, Captaine Harman and myselfe were placed in the front, the 2 Janizary s only goeing before us ; and all the rest of the gentlemen (of which at least 40 cam to meete us) cam a loofe off behind us, as is the custom there, to signify that wee were straii:gers. MAY 1676. 158 The people boath men and woemen cam out to gaze after us, whilst he and I rodd on together very merily. All the Franks accompany us to the factory ; where first the C^onsuU himselfe, and then all the rest of the gentry there present, takes us by the hand, and bids us wellcom. Here the Captaine leaves me, and goes to another English house. Then the Consull, Mr. Gamaliell Nightingall, takes me by the hand, and leads mee through a longe hall, into his chamber ; to which place cam all the rest of the Franks in particular, that had not done it before, to bid mee welcom to the towne. After a while the Consull takes mee by the hand, and leades mee 'thwart a stately roome, which is their chappell, and puts mee into a very fayre chamber, and bids mee call it my home, &c. 2 This morning Mr. Robt. Huntington, Chaplen there, and Captaine Harman and I went about (as it is the custom of the place,) to each Frank's house and chamber in particular to give them thanks for their yesterday's welcoming us to the towne, which was a task to be performed rather in a whole weeke then in on day. 3 This morning wee went to visit som of those gen- tlemen, which wee had not time to visit yesterday. Among whome I found a young gentleman of Christ's Coll. in Cambridge, on Mr. Renoldsonn, co-temporary with my sonn Henry. And Mr, William Fane, of Fulbeck, in Lincoln-shyre, and Mr. George Tredway, " neare Borne, and Mr. Hussy, borne at Huntington, aU which used mee more courteously for country sake. MAY 1676. 159 4 I was invited to dinner by Mr. Trench, where were 12 Englishmen more, where wee had enter- taynment for princes. 5 After dinner at om^ Consull's I was invited to a collotion at Assera, that is at 4 a clock, to Mr. Sheap- heard's, kin to Mr. RauHns, of Stratford ; where also wee had most noble accommodation. 6 This morning early (as it is the custom all sum- mer longe) at the least 40 of the English, with his worship the Consull, rod out of the cytty about 4 miles to the Greene Piatt, ^ fine vally by a river syde, to recreate them selves. Where a princely tent was pitched ; and wee had severall pastimes and sports, as duck-hunting, fishing, shooting, hand- ball, krickett, scrofilo ; and then a noble dinner brought thither, with greate plenty of all sorts of wines, punch, and lemonads ; and at 6 wee returne all home in good order, but soundly tyred and weary. And here I cannot omitt the sight wee mett as wee rod from the cytty to this Greene Piatt. The Consull and my selfe only rideing a gentle pace to- gether, wee see a greate company of women coming all of a heape ; on was in the midst of them clad in a long red vale, with somthing of white over that, which was the woman goeing to be marry ed to the man ; for so they must doe. Two men rodd before this foote company on good horses, each haveing a longe pike in his hand, and a semiter by his syd ; whoe rod fyerely up to us, as though they would have charged us ; but cam and only rod round about us, and returned to their company: the foremost of which was the musick, with a taber just like a pel- MAY 1676. 160 lett sive, and somthing like a pype which squeald very loud : and when this taber and pype had made a strange noyse for a while, (but no whitt like musick) then all the company cam in with the corus, crying lylly, lylly, lylly, lylly, &c. as lowde as they could squeale, all in one note, and as longe as a wind would hould. I am confident you might heare the noyse two miles at least ; and this musick and noyse they continued in the towne all that night. (7) I preacht a sermon in the factory; Psall. Ixvi. 13., and had an audience of above 50 English men — a brave shew in that wild place. And after I dyned with 10 more at Mr. Sherman's house; and at dinner time cam to our ConsuU 2 EngUsh gentlemen from Jherusalem: Mr. Robinson, and Mr. Pye. 8 This day I dined with 23 more at Mr. Lanoy's house, whose father was ConsuU there before Mr. Nitingale. Wee had a plentifull dinner ; answerable to the neatenes of his house ; and greate plenty of all sorts of wine. And here I can not but relate to you what happened in that morning to 2 there at dinner. Twoe Dutch-men cam from Jherusalem with our 2 gentlemen, viz. Mr. Robinson, and Mr. Pye, whoe (for the better convenience of travelling, that they might looke like Turks,) had let theyr beards grow ^v ild and extreamly extravagant to a great length ; and coming now amonge the English, arid also to som of theire owne country men, were resolved to be in the same fasshon. But going to the Turks barbar to have their beards shaved off, he denyd it, blessing of himselfe, and sajing stifur-laiv : that is, God forbid that he should doe such a foule thing as MAY 1676. 161 that was, to cutt such beards ; asking what afront any on had given them since they cam to tov/ne, that had causd them to cutt their beards. The gentle- men would have no denyall ; so at the last the bar- bar calls in 2 more Turks to wittnes, that he did it, but it was unwillingly. And now these gentlemen were a little afrayd least an aveny (fine) should have beene layd on them for cutting their beards; for that about a month before on of the Franks, for cropping of his horse eares, was punished with the payment of an hundered dollars, saying. Are you wiser than God AUmighty? And here Mr. Sheapheard gave mee that strange foule, called hy the Arabeans Sack- cokashy, or lowder-carrier — by us pelicans, which I brought home, and presented to my Honourable Lord Carington. In the plaines of Antioch there were thousands of these foule in a company, which at the first sight I tooke for greate flocks of sheepe. They are very white, and far bigger then a swann, and are an absolute water foule ; they are very stronge of wing, and will mount so high, till they lessen to the biggnes of a small hawke. Under their beake, which is halfe a yard longe, or rather just in their throate, they have a greate allforge, or bagg, which will holde 2 gallons of water. These foule keepe together in greate com- panys, in the plaines of Antioch ; but all the sum- mer time, but especially in the hottest time of all, they single themselves, and fiU their pouch or buckett with water, carrying also many fishes therin for their owne provision; and mounting a greate M MAY 1676. 162 height in the ayre, they flye singly into the desarts of Arabia, where the small birds will com about them like chickens about a henn, for water, which this foule will distribute among them ; and when all his store is spent, he returnes to his old place, and haveing stayd a while, goes againe as before. The Turks call him the charitable bird. 9 We had a breakfast, but no sett dinner ; but all the nation was invited at Assera to a treate of our ConsuU's providinge ; but such a on as I never saw be- fore. The perticulars whereof you may see below; the dishes being all placed as they stood on the table. A DISH or TURKEYS. A DISH OF TARTS. A PLATE or SAUCEAGES. A DISH or GELLYS. A DISH OF GAMMONS A BISQE OF EGGS. AND TONGS. A DISH OF GEESE. A DISH OF BISCOTTS. A PLATE OF ANCHOVIES. A DISH OF HENS. A VENISON PASTY. A PLATE OF ANCHOVIES. A DISH OF BISCOTTS. A DISH OF GREEN GEESE. A GREAT DISH WITH A PYRAMID OF MARCHPANE. A DISH OF TARTS. A DISH OF HENS. A DISH OF HARTICHOCKS. A PASTY. A DISH OF MARCHPANE. A DISH OF SAUCEAGES. ^^ CAKES. A DISH OF GAMMONS. A DISH OF BISCOTT. A PLATE OF HERRINGS. A DISH OF GEESE. A DISH OF TURKEYS. A PLATE OF ANCHOVIES. A DISH OF MARCHPANE. A PASTY. HARTICHOCKS. A DISH OF HENS. A DISH OF GELLYS. A PYRAMID OF MARCHPANE. A DISH OF BISCOTT. A DISH OF GAMMONS. * * * * ANCHOVIES. * « » » MAY 1676. 163 10 I dined at Mr. Ivatt's liouse with six more, where wee had excellent provision ; plenty of wine, but especially good canary. 11 I was with 30 more at a treate at Mr. Goodyear's, and entertained in a tent picht on the house topp ; their houses are flatt. 12 This morning cam in a Caravan and many pil- grimms from Mecca, as is their use every yeare. They have beene out much about 6 mounths. And men, women, and children doe goe out of the cytty, crpng out as they goe, /j/%, lylly, &c. in token of greate joy to see their friends returnd. The men that have beene at Mecca at their returne are counted wise men, and are called Hadgi, as a tytle of honour ; and may w^are a greene coate. And the very cammells that have beene there, have a marke put on them to distinguish them from other cammells, and are not after that used to servile woorke. And this day I dined with 1 3 more at Mr. Delew's, where, besyds our excellent fare, wee had greate plenty of good canary — a greate rareity there, for it coms all from England. And here also dyned with us the 2 Dutch-men, whoe lately had their beards cutt, at whom wee had good laughing, for they were still afrayd of an aveny of 100 dollars. 13 This day I went with 4 more gentlemen to see som of the great houses in the cytty ; (for it is not permitted to any stranger to com into the castle, ex- cept he intend not to com out againe.) The first wee went to was a Turk's house, viz. M 2 MAY 1676. 164 the Mussilera. He himseUe was not at home ; but gon the day before to Stambole, alias Constantinople : but wee were kindly entertayned by a servant with tobacco and coffee, and were shewed severall very stately roomes. 'Twas a pallace fitt for a King. The 2d house wee visitted was a Jew's house ; whear wee first knocked at the outermost gate, and a servant coming, wee told him our desyre was only to see the house ; and he went in to acquaint his Master. Wee would not follow him in, because it was the Jew's sabbaoth day, and about two of the clock. On of the gentlemen of the house cam out himselfe, and led us in, and seemed to take it ill that wee would make any scruple at all of coming in; for, says he, I am much beholden to any stranger that he will take so much paines as to com to see my house. He led us into a spacious roome, in the midst of which was a large fountaine, with 4 cocks flinging up water, and falling into the fountaine ; which was a square about 8 yards in compas. And each end of the roome was also a 4 square : and ascended 3 or 4 stepps ; the square being spread over with rich carpetts, and velvett and plush longe cushens, richly embroydred with golde, lay closse on to another round about the carpetts. There were 4 gentlemen whoe were all three parts fuddled, and had beene merry-makeing with their women, whoe had absented themselves at our aproaching (but som of them peeped at us at a dore as wee cam by them). For thus they spend their sabbaoth ; in the MAY 1G76. 165 morning about sun-riseing they doe their devotions, and all the day following they spend in frollikeing with their women. They made us extreamly welcom with exceeding good wines of severall sorts, and severall sorts of biskott kakes and sweetemeats, such as I never saw before ; and shewed us their gardens, and tame pigions, and every thing but their women. This whole streete is all inhabited by Jewes, where wee mett boys and gyrles as fayre and as well com- plexioned as English. The third house was also a Turk's house, and a greate man ; viz. the Gaw, or Master of the Janizarys. Here wee were also courteously entertayned with tobacco and coffee, and cocolate ; and here wee saw som of his breeding mares, which were valued at a high rate ; but lookt like very jades. Thence wee cam back to dinner, only just looking into another house as wee cam. (14) Mr, Huntington preacht a farewell sermon; oc- casioned by the departure of those 4 gentlemen which cam with us, for England ; the text was Gen. xxxii. 9 : Returne unto thy country. The gentle- men were Capt. Browne, ^^ Capt. Ashby, Capt. ^^ We are not able to procure any information relative to this gentleman^ except that he commanded the Richard fire-ship in 1666, and in the month of August following was detached by Sir Richard Holmes to attack the Dutch fleet within the Islands of Ulic and Schelling. On this occasion Captain Browne rendered himself very conspicuous by burning the largest of two line of battle ships that were stationed there to protect the Merchant vessels. This exploit, which was the most difficult and dangerous MAY 1676. 166 Hussy, Capt. Sherman. Also there cam with us Mr, Hill and Mr. Barrow. I was invited to dine with Mr. Delew, where wee had an excellent dinner, and store of good canary. After dinner wee walked about a myle from the cytty, and saw severall gardens, and pleasant plan- tations ; and so returned. 15 Now intending for Scanderoond to morrow morn- ing, (according to the custom of the place,) being ac- company d by Mr. Huntington, I goe to most of the Franks' houses to take my leave ; and this was a hard taske. Now also I received presents from many of them ; who presented mee with 5 dollars for the most part. At 4 a clock, at Assera, the whole na- tion was invited to a treate at the present Captaine's house, Mr. Browne, whoe, because he was now to goe for England, made this feast to take his leave of his friends ; but it was the greatest that ever I saw. The table was made 24 yards in length, and the dishes placed according to the same fashon as they were at the ConsulFs feast, and stood as closse on to the other as it was possible to place them ; and the middle dish all alonge the table standing upon the other 4 that were next to it. They were furnished with the best things that could be procured there, with greate plenty of wines of all sorts. There were above an hundred princely disshes, besyds cheese, in the whole expedition, was bravely and successfully executed^ but his subsequent services do not appear to have been noticed by any of our naval historians. 31 AY 1676. 167 and otlier small dishes of rare kinds of sweete meats. And 60 and od Franks sate downe, besyds many that would rather stand, or walke about. This did far exceede the Consull's feast. Here wee dranke parting healths, till many could drink no longer; thinking wee should have taken our jurney the next morning. But this evening we were commanded by the Musselem and the Meane not to stirr. 16 This morninge at 8 of the clock, to give mee all the favour that lay in their power, I was, by the noble Consull, Mr. Gamaliell Nitingale, and the Captaine, and the rest of the English gentry, created knight of the Malhue, or Vally of Salt. The manner of it was as foUoweth: First there vv^as a dispensation voted, for my not goeing to the Vally of Salt, in regard of our present affayres. Then taking into my mouth som salt from the poynt of the sword, which was in lew of a bitt of the mould of the Vally, which had I beene there I should have taken from the sword's poynt into my mouth, which was as bad as salt could be, I kneeld downe ; the Consull takes the sword in his hand, (but it had no hilt on it, yet was it, as they tell you. King David's sword ;) and then brandishing it over his head 3 times, and lookeing bigg awhile, at last with a more wild countenance, he pronounces these en- sueing words : Thou hardy wite^, I dubb thee Knight With this old rusty blade ; Rise up Sir H. T., Knight of the ]\Ialhue As good as ever was made. MAY 1G76. 168 Then I riseing up, and kissing the sword with a greate deal of gravity, doe make loe obesance to all the company, and give them all thanks ; after which the Chawes first reads these ensuing verses alowd to me, and after presents them fay re written unto me. Now heare what y'are oblidg'd to doe. You noble Knights of the Mallhue. Or as som others please to caU't^, Brave Knights of the Vally of Sallt. First you must love^ and help each other. With the affection of a brother. Anger or wrath must not appear e To have a motion in your spheare. But meeke as lambs^ or sheepe^ or wether ; So you must love and live together. From virtue let not ought intice^, Or steale your minds. Eschew all vice* Be to all pleasing, gentle, kinde. Brave symptoms of a knight-like mind. You must indeavour to redresse. All that 's amisse. And if distresse On brother, widdow, Avife, or mayd Fall, you must stand up to their ayd. Your promises to all these rights. You must performe as you are Knights. These are the orders to be observed by the noble Knights of the Mallhue or Vally of Salt, which is 20 miles beyond Aleppo. Dated May 16, 1676.^" ^^ There is no account or even notice of this Institution in any of the books which treat of Aleppo and the adjacent country. Dr. Russell's Natural History of Aleppo, edit. 1794, affords much useful information relative to the Europeans resident there: MAY 1676. 169 This ceremony being ended, a little after ten a clock, our noble Consull, attended with most of the English in towne, went to the Caddee, (who is in the natm-e of a Ld. Cheife Justice,) to know the cause of our restraint. There was a greate chayre richly gilt, carryed by 2 men, before the Consull all along the streete ; and when wee cam to his house the chayre was carryed up into the roome, and placed just against the Caddee, who sate like a tayler on his carpetts, with a boy leaneing on a pillow closse by him on his right hand, and 2 more with him Hke Counsellors. The Caddee had on his head, their customs and amusements are minutely described^ but there is no allusion to this order; it was therefore probably a mere ex- cuse for conviviality (something like our orders of Druids and Odd Fellows)^ which had little or no duration beyond the period of its institution. The Valley of Salt is mentioned by Russell (who resided at Aleppo several years prior to 1753 as physician to the British Factory^) to be situate about eighteen miles distant from the city in a south eastern direction ; and Maun- drell, who was Chaplain to the Factory in 1697j describing his journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem, says of this valley, " It is of two or three hours' extent ; we were three quarters of an hour in crossing one corner of it. It is of an exact level, and appears a:t a distance like a lake of water. There is a kind of dry crust all over the top of it, which sounds, when the horses go upon it, like frozen snow when it is walked upon. There are three or four smaU rivulets empty themselves into this place, and wasli it all over about autumn, or when the rain falls. In the heat of sum- mer the water is dryed off, and when the sun has dried the ground there is found remaining the crust of salt aforesaid, which they gather and separate into several heaps according to the degrees of fineness; some being exquisitely white, other alloyed with diit. From this place aU the neighbouring country is supplied with salt." MAY 1676. 170 instead of his turbate, a globe, neatly covered with fine linnen, which lay all in very neate pleats, very ex- actly done, and was neare of the compas of a strike or bushell. Our ConsuU presently sate downe in his chayre, with his hatt on,andcockt; andhaveingdranke a cup of cocolate, and had his beard perfumed (as is their custom, in token of his honour,) he propounds our case very breifly, but by an interpretor. The Caddee by his interpretor gives his answer, and pleades ignorance in the buisnes. But in coms an old Turke, in poore cloathes, stroaking his longe beard a wry, with his nether lipp and chin quivering, holding out his left arme at its full length, with the 3 fore- most fingers stretched out, and his thumb and little finger cluncht together in the middle of his hand ; and pulling one of the httle buttons that were on the bosum of his delaman, with the fore-fingar and the thumb of his right hand, (aU which are signes of verity of speach ;) and alleages that a Maltee cursare had taken a syke, which was laden with his goods, and that the English were accessary to it, and had bought many of his goods ; and he proferd to make oath of this, though it was a very lye. After a Httle examination, his oath would not be taken ; and the Caddee told us that wee might goe when wee pleased. Notwithstanding all this, at on a clock a messenger was sent to deny Captaine Harman's passage. 17 This morning wee thought all of us to goe out^ and provisions were made for the same purpose ; and our Janizary told our ConsuU that he would se- MAY 1676. 171 cure our passage with his life. But the Meane, that is, the Deputy Governor, sent us word that the men might goe, but not their goods. And this was as bad as the tother. Wee dined 20 of us at Mr. Harrington's, at a greate feast. And at night command was given from the Meane not to suffer any Frank, or Frank's servant, to ride, or carry any thing out of the cytty. 1 8 This morning our Consull sent a messenger on pur- pose to the Ld. Finch ^^ to Stambole, to acquaint him with our greivances, who will be there in 1 days. Wee are still restrayned, but promised to have liberty next morning. 1 9 This morning our Consull being allmost impatient, knowing that our shipps were ready to sayle for Eng- land, being accompanyd with a greate traine of brave English men, and also som Dutch and French, went bouldly to theire Seraglio, a very gallant place ; where wee find the Caddee, the Meane, the Mussilem^ and the Master of the Janizarys (the 4 governors of the cytty) all together. After the ceremonys be- fore specifyd were over, our Consull began with greate courage to charge them with breach of articles,. ^" Lord Finch returned from his embassy at Constantinople in 1669, but a Sir John Finch was resident there as English Am- bassador at the time Teonge was at Aleppo; and Anderson, in his Annals of Commerce, mentions him as having concluded a Commercial Treaty with the Sultan Mahomet IV. some time in 1675, which was the same year. He died at Constantinople during his embassy, but was brought to England, and interred in the chapel of Christ's College, Cambridge, in 1682. It seems Teonge had mistaken him for his predecessor. MAY 1676. 172 and to demand satisfaction for our false imprison- ment ; and told them that if he could not be heard there, he would goe with lights to Stambole, and make the Greate Turke acquainted with the buis- nes. This dispute grew higher and higher for at least halfe an hower ; the old Turke aggravating what he had alleaged, with a greate deale of earnestnes and confidence; I might say, impudence. In the heate of all this discource cam in a packett from Stambole to our Consull, which he commaunded to be opened before them all ; for, says hee, there may be in it som thing may concerne our buisnes : and so it proved ; for there was an order or expresse to the Mussellem from the Grand Seniour, to confirm and estabhsh all the commaunds and priviledges that were formerly made concerning the English. At the sight of which, the Turks lookt very dijectedly on upon the other, and presently gave us all our liberty without paying so much as an asper : the Mussellem speakeing these words in their language, " The order is good, and must be observed by my head ;" make- ing all of them a low bow to us all. So back wee returne with greate tryumph and re- joycing ; and all provide for our jurny next morning. But such a parting of friends did I never see. The kind treate, and loath to depart, ended at my cham- ber ; for the Consull went to each of their chambers particularly to bid them farewell, and mine was the last he visitted, being the next to his owne, where he gave me 2 chekeens (chequins). MAY 1676. 173 To give you a small discription of this cytty of Aleppo before I leave it. It is a very ancient cytty, as the buildings sufficiently shew. The Arabians call it Halep, which signifys milke ; indeed it lookes very white afarr off; in regard the topps of the houses are tarras. But this cytty was built by Halepius a King there, as the tradition goes, which was ther- fore neare his name called Aleppo ; but I could not see or heare of any of his monuments there. Tis 4 miles in compas, and invironed with a very high wall, which is much decayd all most in all parts of it ; in which are severaU fayre gatehouses, especially two of them like little castles. The streets are very narrow, and full of corners and turnings, and paved with flatt stones. The buildings are many of them very statly, but much ruinated all over the cytty : in the midst of which there are severall large streets arched over the topp like to a bridge, no light com- ing in save only at som small holes on the very topp, or at the greate gates which are at the ends. These places are called the bazar, or markett place ; for they are like our exchange, shopps on each syd of all manner of trades, no body dweUing there, but are open and full of company all the day, but shutt at night at 9 a clock or before. Their moskues are stately places : of these are so many, that I could never heare their certayn num- ber. Wee must not go into them. Nay, their very women are not suffered to com into them ; being, as they themselves call them, uncleane cretures, made MAY 1676. 174 only for the use of man, and doe defyle the liioskues by their coming in, as much as a Christian doth ; and are not admitted to any devotion. There are in som part of this cytty places made with greate charge (as I am told) wherin strange sorts of fish are kept, for the use of the Grand Se- niour. The men goe generally in longe garments ;, so also doe the women, but they have all of them a vayle before their faces when they goe forth of the doores, excepting som few young ons, which were slaves, eyther taken or bought of Christian parents ; and lisenced whores, of which I saw only 3. Their choyce women never com out into the streetes, but they have their peepe-holes, as appeares by a pleasant story. Not above haUe a yeare before I cam thither, cam a noble English man, who must be namelesse : he had not beene many weekes in towne ; but by his walking about to see the cytty, he was taken notice of by on of the cheife Turks' ladys of the cytty, whoe sent a Turke to him, to accquaint him, that his lady, a person of greate quality, did desyre his com- pany ; with assurances that he should have courteouse reception, and returne as safe as he cam thither, and with all that she would have no denyall. The gentleman consults with the Consull ; whoe in short told him he must goe, or expect to be stabd the next time he went out. Seing no remeddy, he goes with the Turke, whoe brings him by back ways into a stately house, and there to a beautifull lady, whoe MAY 167G. 175 entertayiied hiin above what was promised; and with her he stayd 3 nights, and was after safly con- voyd back, and with a greate gratuity. Severall passages he related to the Consull. Much about a fortnight after, the sam Turke corns to him againe, with whom he went, stayd 3 nights, and returnd as before. With in the same compas of time she sends a 3d time ; he goes and stays 2 nights, and the third night shee told him that her husband was unexpectedly com home ; but bad him not trouble himselfe at all, for that he should be as secure as ever he was before, and that shee would lye with him that night also : which she per- formed accordingly, and the gentleman returned safe and well rewarded. But being so neare being discovered, and knowinge that the lady would not be longe without his company, he went suddenly out of the cytty ; whose departure was much la- mented by the lady, as was after known to the Consull, by the Turke which used to com for him ; and this shews they love the English. The cheife beauty of this cytty is to be scene from the top of a hill, which is about a mile or more west of the cytty, over which hill lyes theroade to Scander- roone. From hence the cytty shews most beautifull ; it stands rownd, the buildings aU of stone and flatt on the topp (where they lye all summer), and done with tarras ; looks white, and very beautifull. Next you see the coopelows (cupolas), which are in abun- dance, not only on their moskues, but on many of MAY 1676. 176 their greate buildings, rising up above the rest of their buildings, like so many pretty mountains over the plaines : as also abundance of rownd towers, of which there is on at every moskue, from which the Turks are called to there devotions (6- times in 24 houres) in these words, or very neare them, viz. La illah illella Muhemet re sul Allah : — there is but on God, and Mahomet his Profett. These that call are called Telismani. Another adorning is the Cy- prus trees, which are very high, and greene, and all over the towne ; which make a very pretty shew. And last of all the castle, which, though it stand on the south syd of the cytty, yet from that hill it seems to stand in the very midst of all the cytty, and on a round hill farr above the highest tower or place in the cytty. Thus the place lookes most pleasantly from that hill ; but when you com into the cytty your expectation is frustrated ; where you find abundance of ruinous walls and houses, the Turks repayring non, only the English keepe theire houses in good repayre. About the towne are brave gardens, and pleasant plantations, wherein grow all manner of garden stuff, apples, peares, plums, apricocks, peaches, cereys, figgs, pistachoes, and other things ; being made more fruitfuU by a small brooke which runns closse by the towne, and is only bigg enough to furnish the towne with fresh water .^^ ^ In situation^ magnitude^ population and opulence^, Aleppo is much inferior to Constantinople and Cairo; nor can it presume to emulate the courtly splendour of either of those cities ; but in sa- lubrity of air, in the solidity and elegance of its private buildings, - as well as in the convenience and neatness of its streets, it may MAY 1G76. . 177 Here is also greate plenty of good mutton, lamb, al manner of foules ; of late, som beife, brought only to the English. be reckoned superior to tliem Loth, and thougli no longer possessed of the same commercial advantages as in former times, it still continues to maintain a share of trade far from inconsiderable. The city, including its extensive suburbs, occupies eight small hills of unequal height, the intermediate valleys, and a consider- able extent of flat ground, the whole comprehending a circuit of about seven miles : it is surrounded by an ancient wall, which is mouldering fast into ruin through neglect ; the broad deep ditch which surrounds it, is in most places filled up with rubbish or con- verted into garden-ground. From the brow of the hills within two or three miles of the city, on the north side, it becomes a striking object, and though part only can be observed from that point of view, it appears of vast extent. The mosques, the mi- narets and numerous cupolas, form a splendid spectacle. The flat roofs of the houses, which are situated on the hills rising one behind the other, present a succession of hanging terraces inter- spersed with cypress and poplar trees, and crowning the whole the lofty towers and minarets of the Castle rise with an apparent magnitude which from that distance gives an imposing finish to the scenery. But the ideas of splendour suggested by a dis- tant prospect of the city usually subside on entering the gates : the streets, on account of the high stone walls on each hand, ap- pear gloomy and more narrow than they really are; some, contain- ing even the best private houses, seem little better than alleys winding among the melancholy walls of nunneries; for a few high windows guarded with lattices only are visible, and silence and solitude reign over all. The population of Aleppo was computed in 1683 at 290,000 persons. It is encompassed at the distance of a few miles by a circle of hills, generally rocky, scantily provided with springs, and to- tally destitute of trees: they afford, however, pasturage for a few sheep and goats, and some few spots among them are culti- vated. There is only one public burial-ground within the walls, but a number of small private cemeteries are found there : without N MAY 1676. 178 20 This morning by 7 a clock, accompany d with hig worship the ConsiiU, and at least 200 English^ French, Dutch, and Venetians, wee begin our jurny the walls the burial-grounds are of a vast extent round the town^ and in a clear bright day the multitude of white tombs and grave-stoneS;, when viewed from a distance, adds much to the rocky, sterile appearance of the country. " Close to the city are some ancient stone quarries^ consisting of a number of vast excavations forming caverns, some of which communicate by subterraneous passages of great length. These dreary places afford a winter habitation for a number of Be- douin Arabs ; they also serve as stables for camels, and not unfre- quently are converted by the Janizaries into dens of debauchery. " The Castle stands upon a lofty hill at the north-east corner of the city, and is encompassed by a broad deep ditch about half a mile in circumference. The entrance is on the south side by a bridge over the ditch, consisting of seven high narrow arches upon which are two gates fortified with turrets, the bridge at the se- cond gate drawing up. Under this gate sits the Aga of the cas- tle, with two or three guards, who do not stand in the manner of sentinels, but are employed in some work, as embroidery or the like, their arms being suspended behind them against the wall. From this second gate the ascent is gentle and direct, till where the bridge terminates at a third gate loftier than the others, over which are handsome apartments for state prisoners of a certain class. The rest of the ascent is rather steep, but winds through a wide, high, covered passage, which appears from without like a strong redoubt, and within is encumbered on each side with gun-carriages and large beams. As it receives light only from some narrow apertures in the wall, it may be easily con- ceived how horribly dark it must appear to the desponding prii soner on the way to his dungeon. Beyond this passage there is a fourth but smaller gate, and from that a narrow ill-paved street leads by a steep ascent to the top of the hill. In walking up, after passing the fourth gate, some shops appear on the left, and opposite to them are several short cells with iron grates. Still higher on the left are a few large ancient houses which occasion- ally serve for persons in confinement, and on the other hand are MAY 1676. 179 ^ back to Scanderoond. These goe with us all to a place calld the Olde Cane, being a decayed building, like to an olde quadi-angle ; where wee had a ti eate of severall good things, and plenty of wine, brought thither by the Consull's appoyntment: it was 4 miles from Aleppo. Here the disconsolate Consull and greate part of the company bid us addue, with thousands of well wishes. Towards the evening, the Captaine and I, and som of the Alopeenes, leave the caravan and goe to a hill syd on the left hand, where was the relicte of a famouse structure, and by it a greate church. In som parts of this house there were pillars of whole stones of at least 6 yards longe, and of a vast thick- nes, and on the topps of them other pillars of the like length and biggness. The buildings borne up by these were of greate massy stone, hewed so true that they closed together, never haveing any morter layd betweene them. These were all of such a vast biggnes, that it is miraculouse to think how they should ever be raysed to such a greate height. Here was a well of excellent water ; and all over the hill syd were the mines of greate buildings. From hence wee went over a plain e to another hill syd, called HoUeea, amonge the rockey mountaines ; where were som pittifull habitations made in the mines of those that had beene sumptuous buildings. This did seeme several short cross streets, with neat houses for the garrison. At the summit of the hill stands a mosque, and near it a well or re- servoir of great depth from which the water is raised by a horse wheel." — RusselVs Natural History of Aleppo. n2 MAY 1676. 180 to have beeiie formerly som large cytty, and only a lovely playne parted this and that from whence wee cam ; all their cyttys haveing formerly beene built on the syds of hills. Here wee find sepulchres or burying places, made by much art and labour on the syd of the hill, in the maine rock, which lys bare, having not so much as grasse, or any the least earth upon it. These se- pulchres are much about the breadth of a saw-pitt, and have about 6 decents or stayres ; at the bottom of those an entrance of about a yard square, and a doore at least a foote thick of the same stone, and turning upon pivotts of the sam . stone at the top and bottom of each doore ; yet are these cut and poysed so exactly, that yovi pull them open as easily as you may a wainscott doore. When you have opened this dore, you find 1 or 2 or 3 stayres, and then you are on a flatt floare, as smoath as can be ; the roofe and syd allso of the like smoathnes. In som of these sepulchres you shall have but on * roome, in som two, and in som 3 roomes, of the breadth of a bay of building, and at the least 7 foote high. In many of these, and especially on the right hand as you com in, you shall find arches cutt also out of the maine rock ; every on haveing a trough or stone coffin in it, wherein the bodys of the de- ceased was layd : every on of these sepulchres be- longing to a particular family. Over the mouthes of som of these were layd greate stones, of an incredible biggnes, so that ther is no getting in to them. But I was in severall of them; som of them have som 3IAY 167G. 181 water in them ; but not so mnch as a bone in any of them. All this greate hill, as they tell mee, is full of these burying places for at least 3 miles in length, besyds the breadth, which can not be lesse then a mile to the sight. Uppon this bare hill syde wee lye this night in little ease, haveinge nothinge betweene the stone and us but an old carpett, and a stone thrust under the carpett instead of a pillow : twas bad lodging and very cold. Our horses were all below in the plaines. I crept closse to the Ld. Pagett, and got a share of his pillow, and I had on small nap ; but I awaked quickly, and opening my eys I was almost frited, for the ayre was full of sparkes of fyre, which was a strange sight at the first. Then I perceived they danced all about ; at which considering, I found them to be a kind of a gnatt with a tayle like a glow-worme.^^ ^' Sir George Sandys^ who preceded our author somewhat more than half a century in this part of the worlds mentions the extraordinary effect produced by these insects in a dark night. The first time he encountered them was in the valley near the base of Mount Carmel, toward which his party had directed their course, in order to avoid a party of the Saphies belonging to the army of IMorad Bassa, which then infested the plains. He pro- ceeds thus : — "^ Having gained the foot of the mountain, we re- posed for the remainder of the day ; when it grew dark we arose, inclining on the left hand into the valley, and after awhile ming- ling with a small caravan of Moors, we were enjoined to silence, and to ride without our hats, lest we should be discovered for Christians. The clouds fell down in streams, and the pitchy night had bereft us of the conduct of our eyes had not the light- ning afforded a terrible light; and when the rain intermitted, the air appeared as '\f full of sparkles of fire, borne to and fro with MAY 1676. ]82 (21) About 4 of the clock in the morning wee mount againe, and haveing past over all the rockey moun- taines, the worst way that ever I rod, wee cam in the morning about 10 of the clock to the river Ephraim, where wee piched 3 tents ; went to prayers, and dined, and som slept awhile. Soone after just 20 of us mount for Scanderoond, leaveing there 13 and their servants, whoe intended to stay there to shoote and take their pleasure therabouts for 2 or 3 days. But the parting was with many teares. From hence wee com to a place where there was not a house to be scene, yet was there thousands of graves, som olde, many new ; som with grave-stones over them, and som with uprite stones at head and feete, and of severall fashones ; yet all lay east and west. These were by a place called the Hott-springs, of which there are two remarkable, boath coming out of the syd of a hill, and riseing upon the sunn- riseing. I could not discover any towne or house neare them, though you might see a long way, there being no woods or bushes to hinder the sight ; yet were there severall beaten paths from all parts to them boath, but especially to the biggest of them, as if it had been to a markett towne. They were neare halfe a mile distand on from the other ; and these graves were uppon a longe banke that was between e them. Wee allighted at the biggest of them, and I putt my hand into the water, which was so hott, the wind, by reason of the injimte swarms of fiies that do shine like ghw-worms: to a stranger;, a strange and curious spectacle/^ ^L. iii.158. MAY 1676. 183 boyling up in the middle of the pitt, that I could not with out paine endure my hand in it. The place itself was nothing but a durty puddle, the bank-syd about it being broaken and fallen into it, and so farr from the least handsomnes, that there was not a stone placed about it, nor any thing to sit downe uppon ; but if you would reach to the water, you must tread in the mudd to com to it, there not being so much as clensing don to it ; yet certaynly it . was a very soveraine w ater. The water was very cleare, but of a blewish colour, much like the water that Roman-vitriol is dissolved in ; and towards the banke tis very slymy, haveing a blew fylme or skin over it. The tast as noysom as is the savour, boath like brimson when tis burning; so nautiouse that our horses would not be forced to com neare it by neare 100 yards. The bredth was about 6 yards, and a current ran from it enough to drive a small mill. Mr. Hill put a halfe dollar into the water ; in 2 minuts time it was changed as yellow as any gold. The other was of the same nature, but lesse, and fuller of mudd. A little farther from hence, I (being the next to our Janizary, whoe was the fore most of all the com- pany,) heard him speake strange words to him selfe, and clapt his sturrups to his horse, and charged his pyke towards the ground, and galloped forward. I followed him, and looking before him, I saw a greate serpent, as thick as the middle of an ordinary man ; his colour was like blew shineing-armour, and his back and syds and head seemed all rugged. He MAY 1676. 184 . went away to a brake of bushes which were not above 10 yards then from him, and made but small hast, as if he did not much care to goe, or stay ; lifting up his head a great deale higher then his body, and his tayle higher then that, and turned in, like a gray-hound's when he stands at gaze ; and so he went off, opening his mouth very wide, and chopping his white teeth together, and crept into a greate hollow hole, which went in under a shelf of a rock. He was at least 4 yards longe as he walked. There were many bones lay there abouts, all broken in peices ; sora of them might be easily deserned to be of men or women, and som of sheep,, and of severall other crctures. And this place of his aboade was on a plaine, and in the midst of the roade way. In the evening wee com to a place called the Broad Waters ; where the whole caravan unloaded, ia grasse up to the middle. Here wee spred our carpetts in the very way, and lay downe thinking to have got som sleepe ; but wee were quickly found out by . the muskeetos, or greate gnatts, which did so tor- ment us, that wee could have no rest ; and ^ here from the water syde, and from amonge the reeds and flaggs, cam out a greate heard of wild sWine, and ran away to the hills. 22 About on of the clock at the farthest this morning wee mount againe, and are soone got to the plaines of Antioch againe, and so neare to the village of the Arabeans (of which I spake before,) that wee heare their cocks crow apace. Where, what with the :sfAY 1676. 185 darknes of the morning and the willfullnes of som that led the way, wee part companys, the greatest part going (as wee supposed) on the left hand, and the worst way ; 1 4 of us, all Franks but on, went on the right hand, betweene the plaines and the mountaines, and wee were so neare to the moun- tayneers, or wild Arabians, that wee often heard them talk on to the other; wee lookt every minuit to have beene besett by them, but the darknes shel- tered us a little. After 3 howers wee all meete againe ; and wee 14 being the foremost, wee mett a messenger, whoe was sent on purpose to bid us make all the hast wee could possible, else the ships would be gon before wee com. On wee ride, and about 2 howers after wee baite a while at a spring, and eate som victualls, cold henns, chickens, cheese, and drinke good wines ; but the cheifest thing wee Vv anted was sleepe. But wee could not stay for this. Haveing now rod to the topp of som mountaynes, called Byland Mountaines, wee might looke over all the plaines, and with ease vew the Lake of Antioch, and the mouth of the river Orontes, and the very castle and the walls of the cytty ; also you might easily perceive the greate breach in the syde of the hiU, made formerly by an earthquake which brake out there, and destroyed great part of the cytty ; but now the greatest part of the cytty stands a Httle lower, and nearer to the v/ater. The cytty is not above 6 good miles from this place. MAY 1676. 186 Here I being very willing to be at my jurnys enJ^ was gotten the fore most of all, and I heard som pistoUs fyred before mee, and as I thought very neare me. And being a little afrayd of the Arabeans, knowing that it was a place much frequented by them, for it was at a crosse roade, and at a narrow lane corner, and also woods on all syds ; I made my pistoU and sword ready, and made a halt for Cap- taine Harman, who I knew was but a little behind mee : but before he cam to mee, two men beckoned me to com to them up a greate bank out of the way. I refused (takeing them for the Arabians) and stood OD my guard, till my fellow travellor cam to me. Then wee perceived the plott ; for Consull Low, of Scanderoond, with severall other gentlemen, cam so farr to meete us, which was 15 miles ; and they had sent the 2 men to turne us that way. So wee went with them to the topp of the hill ; where wee were welcomed with a treate of fish, and flesh, and good wines ; and from thence wee hast 5 miles farther to ' Byland, where wee made a halt about halfe an houre. And that evening wee cam 10 miles farther, to Scan- deroond ; being mett by all the English gentle- men, and a drum and pype of the Greekes. And at our alighting from our horses were saluted with gunns from all the ships. Here wee stay a while at the English factory, and then all the Alo- peenes cam on board of our ship, and stayd all night there. 23 24 Nothing but merryment ; and prepareing for sayl- ing. ?.[AY 1G7G. 187 25 About 1 this morning wee are under sayle, but to small purpose, the wind being against us. No- thing but salutes and feasting. 26 At 3 in the afternoon e the Dartmouth goes back with those Alopeenes which cam only for love ; our ship saluting them with 15 gunns, and shee answer- ing with as many. The Providence and Martin also saluted them. So wee 3 (haveing left the Dart- mouth and the Gynny to com after us) doe stand for Cyprus. 27 Wee have passed Cape Porcos, and are against the Bay of Antioch. (28) And now neare the east end of Cyprus. I preacht a sermon ; Math. vi. 9. 29 The Byrth Day and Restoration Day of our sove- raine King Charles II. I preacht a sermon ; text, PsaL cxviii. 24. After dinner our Captaine began the King's health, and fyred 1 1 gunns ; the Provi- dence 9 ; the Martin 7 : the Alopeenes give us wines galloore. And much about sunn setting wee see som part of the iland of Cyprus. 30 And to day at sunn setting wee weather Cape Andrea. 3 1 The Alopeenes feasted aboard the Martin, and were entertayned with abundance of gunns at the drink- ing of healths. At 9 a clock a crickett sang very merrily in the foote of our mizon, and was also heard a little the night before ; there was also a death- watch heard in the gunn roome. T)eiis vortat bene I June 1 Betweene II and 12 the sunn was so much eclypsed that wee can see plain ely on star closse by JUNE 1676. 188 the sunn shine very bright ; and just at that time wee com to an anchor in Saline Roads. 2 Our Captaine and Alopeenes all dyne ashoare at the English ConsuU's house at Larneca, where they stay all night, but our Captaine returnes to the shipp. 3 Nothing but drinking healths to our friends in good Cyprus wine. (4) I preacht a sermon : To love our enemys. 5 I goe on shoare to buy wine to carry (God willing) into England ; and I dined at our Consull's at Larneca. 6 7 Boath days of great e myrth. 8 Mr. John Fogg's byrth day, and wee keepe it full merily. 10 My wedding day, and wee keepe this after the same manner. (11) No sermon ; wee had this day cam in to us, to our greate joy, the Dartmouth and the Gynny, which wee left at Scanderoond. This is Mr. James Hodgson's wedding day, and wee keepe it merily. 12 Woonderfull hot weather, yet wee drink Cyprus wine. 1 3 Grande festo on board our ship to day, for all the Franks on shoare ; and made by our Alopeenes. At 7 this evening wee get up on anchor, to make ready for sayling in the morning. 14 By 4 in the morning wee are under sayle. And then wee part with Mr. Robinson and Mr. Pye ; whoe goe from Cyprus to Stambole ; and were saluted by aU our ships as they passed back. 1 5 Wee are as far as the light house, on Cape Tygta. 16 .Wee are got forwards about 6 leages ; and discover JUNE 1676. 189 3 sa} les under the shoare ; the headmost stood cleare off, the other 2 stayd to vew us ; and put out the Maltees colours, and past by Us. 1 7 The wind is crosse. A ship called the Beare cam downe the wind upon us. The master's name was Mr. Williams, of Deale ; whoe cam from Lygorne highther in 1 7 days ; bound for Scanderoond. (18) I preacht a sermon — Which art in Heaven. Wee are with much adoe past Cape de Gatt ; and are there calmed. 19 Wee are got at least on-wards 7 leages. A fine slant breeze. 20 Farewell to Cyprus, for wee can not see any part of it. 21 Wee goe slowly on. 22 Grande Festo by our Alopeenes. 23 A crosse wind. 24 And so still ; driveing us towards Egypt. (25) Only prayers. Our Captaine and Alopeenes dine on board the Dartmouth. 26 The Alopeenes give the seamen a punchin of wine ; and to the gentlemen and officers 2 sheepe, 2 goates, and a punchin of wine. And tis myrth enough to see the severall kinds of vessells the sea men bring to carry away their wine with all. 27 . This morning wee see the Egyptian shoare all alonge ; and it is that part of Egypt which is called Numidia, viz. the place of Jupiter-Hammon, the greate Oracle. And now give mee leave to forget our voyage a while, and give a small historical! discource of Egypt, JUNE 1676. 190 and the parts adjacent ; haveing brought you before alonge the Mediterranean to Egypt. Egypt lys west from Arabia. The Holy Land and Arabia beinge joyned together in terra jirma ; and so likewise Egypt and the Holy Land are joyned together in terra jirma by an isthmos, or neck of land. So that it is dubious to say, whether that neck of land bee Arabia, Palestina, or Egypt : how ever it be, yet it is plaine that these 3, viz. Arabia, Palestina, and Egypt, are all in terra jirma; and the greate bay called Synus Arabicus, or the Red Sea, lyeth on the west part of Arabia, and betweene Arabia and Egypt. This I note to confute a vulgar error amonge many, concirning the Israelits passing through the Red Sea. Tis true that they passed through the Red Sea; that is, they crossed that bay, called Synus Arabicus, from before Pyharioth, to the wildernes of Ethan in Arabia. As Numb, xxxiii. 8 ; and so also Exod, XV. 22. Som understand that they went crosse the maine sea, and cam out on the cleane contrary syd againe ; when as they went in, as I may say, on this syd of the bay, and only went crosse the bay, which is taken to be 50 miles ; and cam out on the sam syd againe which they went in at, though far from the same place. ^^ *'^ Whiston, in his notes to an early edition of Josephus^, cites Roland for the following account of the passage of the Red Sea : — '' A traveller, whose name was Eneman, upon his return from Egypt, told me that he went the same way from Egypt to Mount JUNE 1G7G. 191 That Arabia, Palestina, and Egypt are in terra firma is apparent, though som would have the river Jordan to part Arabia from the Holy Land ; but Sinai which he supposed the Israelites of old traveUed, and that he found several mountainous tracts that ran down towards the R^d Sea, as he delineated them to me (see A. B. C.) i>KZ Ara Ifiii '^ He thought the Israelites had proceeded as far as the Desart of Etham (Exod. viii. 20,) when they were commanded to turn back (Exod. xiv. 2,) and to pitch their camp between Migdol and the sea ; and that when they were not able to fly unless by sea, they were in the place here denoted by the letter B, where they were shut in on each side by mountains, and that on the part where stands D was the army of Pharaoh. He also thought we might evidently learn hence, how it might be said that the Israelites were in Etham before they went over the sea, and'yet came into Etham after they had passed over the sea also." — '* What has been objected against the passage of the Israelites JUNE 1676. 192 part of the Holy Land lyeth betweene the deserts of Arabia and the river Jordan, viz. the inheritance of the try be of Ruben, Gad, and the halfe tribe of Ma- nasseth, which was neare Jerico, and stood full east. This country of Egypt did yield abundance of corne ; so that it was tearmed (as also was Cycillia) Horreum populi Romani. Tis very rare to have any raine fall there ; therefore was it so much the more terrible to have raine, hayle, and thunder and lightening running on the ground. There is usually a mist in som seasons of the yeare, leaving a small dew on the earth ; but tis watered by the river Nylus, which ariseth in Prestar John's coun- try, which lyeth in the north-east part of Africa. This river at certayne seasons of the yeare doth overflow the whole country of Egypt, excepting som few risings, on which their townes and cyttys for the most part are built. And doth so thoroughly water the earth, and also manure or inrich it, that it brings forth fruite abundantly. There are posts sett in severall convenient places to observe how high the waters doe rise. And tis observed, that if they overflow in ordinary places above 17 cubits, then tis too much ; if under 1 5, the moysture will not be sufficient : eyther of these is over the Red Sea in one nighty, from the common maps^ viz. that this sea being here about thirty miles broad^, so great an army could not pass over it in so short a time, is founded upon a great mistake. Thevenot informs us from actual survey that this sea, for about five days' journey, is no where more than eight or nine miles over cross, and in one place but four or five miles. See Delisle's Map." — Whiston's Josephus, b. ii. pp. 62. 64. JUNE 1676. 193 prejudiciall. The overflowing of this river, and at such seasons yearly, is on of the woonders of the world : severall probable conjectures have bene made at the reason of it, but the most probable may be this : — There is in Prestar John's country (as som doe affirm) the head or riseing of this river, (though others strive to fetch it from the Lake Zembre, which lyes farther south,) neare to the which are those hills called Lun(E Monies, on the which falls abundance of snow. At the melting of the which, and to pre- vent the too violent course of the waters, especially at that time, the inhabitants have made severall damms, and sluces, and ponds to catch the water in, partly for their owne convenience, to turne it to the watering of their owne hilly grounds leasurly ; which would otherwise by a violent course runn from them hastily, and doe no good : and by this means also the waters com leasurely downe to Egypt. For the maintenance of which damms and sluces, the country of Egypt have (time out of mind) payd yearely a greate trybute to Prestar John ; which payment being not longe since detayned by the greate Turk, as an unnecessary charge, and as an imposition for which they could give no reason, Prestar John gave com- maund to cutt all the damms and sluces, which pre- sently drowned all the land of Egypt, or greate part of it, for 3 yeares : so that the Turk was forced to begg his peace with Prestar John, and give not only the old tribute, but a greate summ of monys also more for the repayre of the damms and sluces. o JUNE 1676. 104 Here learning, especially the mathematicks and astronomy, have beene very ancient. And in these plaines are those miraculouse Py ra- ni idds, built by som of their Princes (whoe were usually buryed under them), of the which 3 remaine to this day. And here are those artists for imbalm- ing of dead bodys, by which meanes the flesh, and skin, and colour will remaine many hundreds of yeares uncorrupted ; of which wee have dayly ex- perience by bodys and parts brought from thence by merchants. Here stands Memphis, on of the most eminent cyttys of the East, but now called Grand Cay re ; unto the which on of the haven townes is Alex- andrya, a cytty famous for merchandize, of which Ammianus Marcellinus says, that it hath scarce ever beene knowne but that once in the day the sunn hath shined over Alexandria. Here live many Christians, paying a yearly tribute to the Turk, under whose dominion all Egypt is. Som have attempted to digg through that neck of land into the Red Sea, but have bin forced to for- beare, haveing considered that the sea would not only alter the waters of Nylus, but also drowne all Egypt, the sea lying 3 cubitts higher. The river Nylus is sayd to part Asya from Africa, and that river lyes neare the middle of Egypt; so that the country of Egypt is partly in Asia, and partly in Africa : of which I shall speake her- after. 28 29 30 These 3 days wee sayled ; yet wee see no land. JULY 167G, 195 July 1 No land yet ; but wee drink healths to our friends in England. (2) I preacht a sermon of Faith, Hope, and Charity, from these words — Our Father, which art in Heaven. 3 No land yet to be seene ; and the wind is crosse. 4 Our Alopeenes dined on board the Providence ; and now wee see Candia, and are joyfuU. 5 By sunn setting wee have passed the east end of Candia. 6 Little wind this day ; and wee are neare the iland Crispiana, but there calmed ; and driven back by the current above halfe of the way to Scarpanta. 7 8 Crosse winds. (9) I preacht a sermon — Hallowed be thy name. Wee see 3 shipps under the shoare, which wee take to be Maltees. 10 11 12 The wind crosse and very high all these days. Wee left Candia the last night ; hopeing to see it no more this voyage. 13 A fayre wind now, if it will but holde ; and our Alopeenes doe dine on board the Martin. 14 The wind bad againe, 1 5 But somwhat better to day. (16) I preacht a sermon—Hallowed be thy name. 3 7 18 19 20 But a bare wind aU this while. 21 Bad stUl. At 10 a clock a greate storme was a head of us, but it did not reach us. Three greate spoutes fall in our sight, on to windward of us, and 2 to leeward; and brought us a fayre wind, but it did not holde above an houre at moast. o 2 JULY 1676. 196 22 The last night the Providence left us, and went more north. (23) This morning wee are under Goza. And when wee thought wee had beene at the west end, it proved that wee were at the east end, of the iland of Malta. No sermon, but prayrs. At 8 at night wee com to an anchor in Malta roads, and just before the mouth of the harbour ; and wee heare that not any have dyed there of the plague for 3 weekes. Som say the num- ber that dyed was 1 2,000 at the least. Here wee heare of som of our marchants taken by the Arge- reenes for want of a passe, which wee feare may stay our ship here. 24 Wee fetch water, and haste away ; for here is nothing to be had but som garden stuff; and the people are very thin, being almost aU destroyed by the plague. It hath also raged very much at Try- poly; and at Tunnis there have dyed 200,000 and upwards. 25 At 10 this morning wee are under sayle ; and, God willing, for fayre England. Boone voyagio ! our ship is very leakey. Wee discover a ship eastward, and boare towards, supposing shee was what wee found her, viz. the Providence, which left us as wee sup- posed willingly on Fryday night ; but he says noe. On Munday last, at Malta, was a man hanged for stealing goods out of the houses of the dead, and selling them in towne ; and a ship burnt that was so much infected, that whosoever cam in her dyed with in two bowers. JULY IG7G. 197 26 27 So callmed and driven back, that wee are not 3 leages from Malta. 28 Wee tow our ships, for feare of being driven a shoare on Goza. 29 (30) All calme. I preacht a sermon— Hallowed be thy name. A shark caught by the men of the Martin 9 foote longe. 3 1 From 8 last night to 8 this mome we have runn 7 leages. Aug. 1 This morning wee see Cycillia, and should have seene it long before, had it not beene hazy weather. Wee see a lusty ship, by the shoare, but know not what she is. 2 The Dartmouth is ordered to beare downe to see what ship shee is, and finds her to be an English ship, the Thomas and Frauncis ; the commander Captaine FaulstafF, and coms from Smyrna : and before they could com up to us, wee discover 5 sayle a head of us. Wee make a cleare ship ; and all things are ready for a battell. At 4 a clock they com neare us, and wee see them to be French men, 4 men of warr and a sattee. The Admirall sends his pinnace to salute us, and asks us if we wanted any thing : our Captaine sayd he wanted nothing that he would be beholding to such rogues as they were for. The gentleman that cam was an English man, whoe de- syred our Captaine not to take it ill, for that they had order from the French King to furnish the English with whatsoever they wanted: our Captaine gave them thanks, and sayd he wanted nothing. And so AUGUST 1676. 108 wee parted. It was at the west end of Cycillia, closse by a cytty called Mazazan. 3 Wee have left Cycillia, and see Pantalarya. Greate lightenings. At 10 at night Captaine Harman left ns, nolens volens ; at whom our Captayne command- ed 2 giinns to be fyred from our ship, and 4 from the Dartmouth ; but did him no hurt. 4 Wee have runn the last night 7 leages ; and at night wee have passed by the first of the maretine ilands, called Maretimo ; and are very neare the larbees, certayne rocks that lye neare the topp of the water, and are discoverable only by the breakeings ; ergo, is sayd to be the most dangerous place in the Straits. Our Alopeenes went on board the Tho. and Francis this afternoone, and had noble entertayn- ment ; and at their coming off were saluted with 7 gunns to on boate, and 5 to the other. 5 Wee have a small gale ; and goe on, as lav/yers doe, to Heaven. (6) I preacht a sermon on the old text ; all, almost all in our ship, gentle and smiple, have got the Turkish riff. 7 Wee see a greate part of Sardinia ; and at night are under the iland of Callary, standing very high. 8 Much myrth last night in boules of punch ; and little wind. 9 All calmed all this day, till in the evening a small gale„ 1 Wee are closse under Monte Christo, a high rock in the sea ; and suddenly wee have lUbay or Lillbow on our starboard syde, and have another flatt iland AUGUST 1676. 199 on our larboard, called Planosa. This day our noble Alopeenes did make grande festo for all the gentlemen in our squadron, where wee had a noble Venetian belonging to the Thomas and Francis, whoe brought with him from Smyrna a Greeke lady, at a vast charge to him ; and made us happy with her com- pany- at our ship at dinner. Shee was woondrous rich in habite, and counted the beauty of the Le- vant ; but I have scene far handsomer in England amonge our milk-may ds. Tis calme all this night. 1 1 This morning wee leave Corsica and Caparero boath on our larboard syd, and can discover the maine land of Italy. 1 2 Wee can now see Lygorne, so much longed for ; at 2 a clock wee have the Malora on our larboard syd ; and at 3 wee com to anchor in Lygorne roade, where wee finde 6 more English shipps, and 3 French, The English all salute us, and wee answer accordingly. Here wee aU expect letters from Eng- land, but find non. (13) No prayers to day ; nor like to have prattick ; yet they teU us that to morrow wee shall have provisions off. The Lady Clutterbug hath sent us presents, and Florence wines, beife, mutton, and salletts, and all manner of fruits, which are here very good. ] 4 Wee fetch water ; and wee heare of the Argereenes securing many of our merchant shipps, thinking no lesse but that it will prove a warr. 15 More water and provisions com a board; but the Lygornees are unkind to us. Things are too deare to be bought here. AUGUST 1676. 200 16 Bread and beverage wine brought on board to day. 17 At 6 this morning (many salutes haveing past on all syds) wee are under sayle : and haveing past the Malora, viz. a small rock lying in the roade, and but a little apparent, wee lye by, and stay for our pin- nace. At 2 a clock cam 2 Argereenes neare us,^ within 3 leages of Lygorne, and presently tack from us againe. 1 8 Calme all night ; and so also to day. About 1 1 of the clock cam neare us 5 gallys ; and on more about 3 leages a starne. When wee had put abroade our colours they (being Genoeeses) sent their boate to enquire after the Argereenes, which were neare us the last night ; and haveing received our informa- tion, they left us, and stood toward the shoare. Twas just by the iland called Gorgony» 1 9 Little wind ; yet wee are overagainst the head Cape of Corsico. At 4 our Captaine and Alopeenes went aboard the Tartar, which is to carry them over^ > to serenade and make merry. (20) I preacht a sermon — Hallowed be thy name. Wee mett the Unity to day. And now wee are entring the Gulph of Lyons, which is at least 370 leages over. God send us well over it ! 2 J This morning wee are closse under the iles of Aries. At halfe an houre after 9 our noble Alopeenes departed from us. Wee gave them 9 gunns ; the Dartmouth 7 ; the Martin 9. They saluted us with all their petarreroes severall times over. Their good company will be much mist aboard our ship. They AUGUST 1676. 201 are for Marcelles ; and will be there this night. No sooner doe wee part with our Alopeenes, but wee discover 8 sayls coming towards us from the shoare ; which w^ee soone discover to be Argereene men of warr. Now wee make all things ready, thinking no lesse but that they would fight us. But when wee cam somthing neare them, their Admirall sent his boat to us, and commands us on aboard to give him account what wee were, and whither bound. Our Captaine, being very angry at such a message, com- maunds to runn out all our gunns ; but the Argereenes, not well likeing that sight, tackt from us as fast as they could. They tooke a Venetian of 36 gunns this morning. 22 Wee have no wind, and a troublesom rowling sea. At 10 cam a small gale ; wee corke up our port- holes, and our starboard syd. And when wee thought to have crossed this dangerouse gulph without any trouble, in the evening arose 2 small clouds in the north, which were cole black, and in lesse then haMe an houres time overspread all the heavens in sight ; and brought such a vehement wind with them, that wee were forced to loare all our yards, and splitt our maine-sayle; in which trouble PhynnyShreusbury brake his legg betweene the maine-mast and mayne- yard ; and Roger Lyswell fell from the mayne-yard upon a gunn, being much bruised. 23 This storme continues all this day. At 5 at night, being forced to run before the wind, and out of our right course, wee cam by Min-yorke, and closse under Porte Mahone, where wee ly by, for the Dart- AUGUST 1676. 202 mouth and Martin. The first cam presently, the other at 9 a clock. 24 Bartlemew Day, and wee have a brave gale, and wee past the Caparero. 25 Still a fine gale to bring us to England sooner then wee expected. 26 This morning past Cape Snt. Paule. At night against Cape Degatt. (27) I preacht a sermon — ^Thy Kingdom com. Wee have a true Levant wind, which brings us on apace. Wee have past the Granatho Hills ; and at 3 a clock past Maligo. 28 Now are wee under Guybralter, or Gyblitore. At 6 at night wee com to an anchor in Tangeare Roade, and salute the towne with 9 gunns, whoe salute us againe with as many from the Mole. And here wee are soone informed of the Argereenes takeing of the Gynn}'- and the Quaker catch, whose losse was much lamented. And now haveing left the Mediterranean, give mee leave to returne to Egypt, where I left, and give a small relation of Africa. Africa, the 3d part of the world, lyeth west from Egypt ; which extends itselfe from thence to Caput Bonce Spei and to the Hill Atlas in the west ; and is divided into severall countrys. Cyrene, or Africa Minor, lyes next to Egypt, where stood that famous oracle, called Jupiter Ham- mon ; all the country where this Oracle stood being a wilderness. Where Alexander marching with his army, for 4 days space found neyther grasse, tree, water^ AUGUST 167G. 203 man, bii'd, nor beast, but a deepe sand. This is now tearmed a part of Egypt. And from hence to Her- cules Pillar is called Barbary, though it contayn se- verall kingdoms. And from hence to Trypoly is the King of Try poly 's jurisdiction ; for which he is a tributary to the greate Turke. The cytty of Trypoly stands in a fruitful! plaine ; yet one part of the towne climbs up to the top of a round hill, haveing a stronge wall about it ; and is in compas much about 2 miles, the wall being fur- nished with severall peices of cannon. Their har- bour is very secure, haveing but on passage leading into it, and that very narrow, and as it were a lane hemd in with severall black rocks on the right hand, and the shoare on the left ; up the which you com neare 2 miles before you be in the harbour. And just at the entrance into this narrow passage was built, while wee lay against the cytty, a stronge fort, of at least 20 gunns, to secure the passage. The liarbour is very large when you are com into it. On the left hand stands a stronge castle, just before you the cytty wall ; and on the right hand an exceeding _ stronge fortification, which they call the Mandrake, which is built round of it selfe ; and a wall with battlements on each syde runninge from it to the towne; and as full of gunns as it can ly. The towne all built of stone; the houses but low, no glasse windows. The plague was so much in it, that I went not a-shoare. Their country round about seems to be very fruitful! ; where they have 2 cropps of wheate every yeare, of once sowing. AUGUST 1676. 204 Abundance of dates and other fruits, musk mellons, water mellons, infinite of all garden stuff ; and much plenty of beife, mutton, and all manner of poultery, and other provisions. Mauritania Caesariensis lys next. In this country stod that famous cytty, Carthage ; supposed to be built by Queene Dido, whoe cam from Tyrus. Som peices of towers and walls remaine to this day ; and also part of Queene Dido's tombe is standing upon a rise neare the sea. And severall foundations and peices of walls are to be seene as you row in a boate to goe in to Tunnis. And there are several vaults under ground, wherin people now live, which were part of Carthage. Greate warrs were betweene the Romans and Carthaginians for the priority ; but at the last the Romans (at the earnest desyre of Cato, whoe pleading, concluded allways thus, T>elenda est Carthago I) rased it to the ground, fearing such a powerfuU neighbour. More west stands Utica, and Hyppo, where Snt. Augustine was bishop= This whole country is called the kingdom of Tunnis, which is also, as well as Trypoly, stipendiary to the Turke. Mauritania Tingitana lyes more west still, and by the Mediterranean ; and so called from Tangeare, the cheife cytty there ; but som will have it not to stand where Tangeare now stands, but on the other syd of the bay. The people of this country are those which in all olde historys are called Moores. And at the Straites of Guybralter or Gibbettore, called the Straits-mouth, did Hercules sett up his Pillars ; on upon the Barbarian, the other on the AUGUST 1G7G. 205 Spanish shoare ; opposite the on to the other. Ergo, these seas were called of olde Freta Herculea. In the west part of this country stands the hill called Atlas Minor, and in the south, Atlas Major ; which for its height is sayd to carry Heaven on his shoulders. Here is the kingdom of Fez, lying towards the Mediterranean ; and the kingdom of Morocco on the other syde. These are boath Saracens, and so are their people : they hold leage with the Turke, and som Christian Princes, only for trafick. In the south parts of Africa is scarce any thing remarkable, save that there are men and beasts of strange shapes ; as, som men with heads like doggs or hoggs, som with no head; som with only one large legg and foote ; as there are the same strange shapes in the north parts of Europe and Asya.^^ ^^ The following passages, extracted from a small volume in the library of the British Museum, published in 1664, entitled ^^ A Description of Tangier and of the Kingdoms of Fez and Morocco," may, in some measure, countenance the worthy Chap- lain's assertion with regard to the existence of these nondescript inhabitants of Africa. The work is apparently written with earnestness, and upon the title-page it is described as a transla- tion from the Spanish, and published by authority. After some prefatory remarks to the second section, which comprises the natural history of the country, it proceeds thus: " 1. Here are placed the Cynocephali, that have heads like dogs, snouts like swine, and ears like horses. " 2. Here are the Sciapodes, that have such a broad foot, and but one, that they cover their heads from the heat of the sun and the violence of the showers, by lifting this up over them. " 3. Here are the Giimnosophantes, that go naked and fear nothing so much as a clothed man, being ignorant of the use of AUGUST 1676. 206 Beyond Morocco is Gynny, whose cheife mer- chandize is gold and elephants' teeth, of which there is greate plenty. More south lyeth the kingdom called Mani-Congo ; and more south, so far as 1 degrees beyond the tropick of Capricorne, is the land's end ; being a promontory, and called by Vascus Gam a, who first found it out, Caput BoncE Spei. He was a Portugall, and named this place so, in hopes that the land might there turne to the north, and so it did; and following that course he found the way to the East-Indys. You may read more of this country in Osoryus, and Petrus Maffaeus. In the land of Africa lyeth that large country of Prestar John, or Presbiter John, or Pretiosus Jho- hannes ; his country strechinge east to part of the Red Sea ; on the north to Egypt ; on the south to Mani-Congo. He is not only an absolute Prince, but weapons, and one being able without a miracle to chase a thousand of them. " 4. Here are the BlemmicBj men that walk without heads, having their eyes and mouths in their breasts. "^ 5. Here are the Egipans, that have only the bodies of men, sometimes inade up of the necks and heads of horses^, mules, asses, &c. and;, " 6. That this part of Africa may have its share in the saying ' Semper aliquid Afyica portat nova,' '^ Africa is always teeming with some new monster,' the other day^ not far from Tangier, was to be seen a child with an eagle's bill^, claws and feathers^ &c."— Description of Tangier, sec. ii. p 49. In the Museum Catalogue this work is ascribed to the Rev. Lancelot Addison, author of " Observations upon West Barbary," &c. ; but his name does not appear throughout the !x)ok. AUGUST IG7G. 207 hath also a prelaticall jurisdiction over them. They are all Christians, and it is thought have continued so ever since our Saviour Christ's time ; and were converted first by the Chamberlaine of Candace the Queene of ^Ethiopia, whoe was instructed concerning Christ by Phillip the Evangelist : Acts viii. They owe no superiority to the Bishop of Rome, yet they differ from the Western Church in many things. They still retaine circumcision, which the Jews held in that time when Phillip instructed him; and probably it was because PhilHp was soone taken from him, and he had no farther instruction from any on as wee reade in Scripture of, but was only baptised, therefore was left imperfect in other cere- monys of the church. In this country ariseth the river Nigar, so famous; it is thought to have in it the most and best precious stones in the world; which riseth from the Lake Zembre, cominge from the mount. From which place also ariseth the river of Zayre, running westward ; and Zuanca, running towards the south ; and Nylus towards the north ; and Nigar running partly east ; which river, haveing runn a certaine space from this lake, runns into the earth as it were at a greate mouth, and runneth unseene under part of the earth for 60 miles space, and then rising againe maks a greate river. There are also severall other countrys in Africa, wherein are men and beasts of strange shapes, vere- fying the ancient saying ; — Africa semper aliquid novi affert : and the reason is easily given ; for. AUGUST 1676. 208 ^^tdi iiia there being but few watering-places, and the country hott, and all manner of cattell meetinge at those places, doe many times couple with beasts of another kinde ; and thence proceeds a new species, haveing part of the on, and part of the other. And now haveing no more land to speake of, I shall returne back to Tangeare, where I left our ship. 29 This day wee take in fresh water, and corke our ship, haveing nothing else to doe ; for wee have no prattick, which wee take ill from EngHsh men. 30 By 4 this morning wee are under sayle, and for Gales. As wee goe wee vew the coasts of Spaine, and have a fayre prospect of the cytty Medina. At 6 wee com to anchor in the Bay of Bulls, before Cales ; and find there the Yarmouth and Swan, bound for the Straits. 3 1 Here wee are also denyed prattick ; they will re- ceive nothing from us, nor let us have any thing from them. So wee shall have no wine. At 5 in the afternoone wee are under sayle, but wee stay for > our pinnace, which cam not till 7 ; then wee sayle for England. Sept. 1 Next dore to a calme : and for feare of foule weather, and also to ease our ship that is so leakey, wee strike 14 of our gunns into the hole. 2 Now entering on the coasts of Portugall ; but tis very hazy weather. (3) I preacht on the old text : and wee can see no land as yet. 4 The wind is crosse to our course, though it blowe fresh. SEPTEMBER 1G76. 209 5 The wind is altered, and wee steare N. W. and by North : a good course. 6 A very troublesom rowling sea : cold weather, and som raine. 7 As bad weather this day. 8 Fay re weather ; wee mend old sayles. 9 Such another day : yet no land to be seene. (10) Wee discover a small ship, and bore downe to her ; and found her to be an EngUsh ship, from Mar^ celles, bound for London. Tis blustering weather. Wee have prayers ; no sermon. 1 1 The same cold weather ; the wind crosse, and stormy. 12 Wee steare W. N. W. and the farther wee goe, the farther wee are from England. At 3 wee tack and stand E. N. E. 13 A crosse wind still ; and begins to be stormy, and colde. 14 Stormy weather, and raine; a sad tempestuous 15 night. A dangerouse leakey shipp. And as bad, or worse, to-day. 1 6 Raine, and very stormy ; and the seas runn very high. At 6 in the afternoone the storm spUtt our fore-sayle all into bitts, and very much rent our new maine-sayle. Wee tooke in that, and bent another maine-sayle, which was no sooner spread, but rent ; so that wee were forced to lye under a mizon all that cruell night. The wind grew more stronge, and the seas more furiouse ; and our companions wee saw neare us, but can see them no more. Now wee ship severall seas ; our men are all tyred with pumping p SEPTEMBER 1676. 210 and bayling. And wee expect every sea to breake our ship in peices. (17) About 4 in the morning the seas groe far more outragious, and breake clearly over our quarter deck ; drive our hen-cubbs (coops) over-board ; and washed on of our seamen cleane off the crotchett-yard. A second sea cam, and threw downe all our boomes ; brake boath pinnace, and longe boate, on the decks. Athird cam,andflung our anchor off the ship syd, flung the bell out of his place, brake off the carving, and puUd 2 planks a sunder in the midst of the ship, be- tweene decks, and just against the pump. Our fore- castle was broake all downe longe before. Now the men are all dishartened, and all expect nothing but the losse of ship and life. Our larboard gunnhill all broake up, a whole planke almost out betweene decks; men swimming about in the wast of the ship ; and greate seas often breaking over us. I never saw such a Sunday, and I hope shall never forget to give God thanks for this day's deliverance ; for it was a miracle that ever wee escaped. At last our Captaine and the rest, consulting, made a shift to put up a small fore-sayle, and put the ship before the wind. Many greate seas breake over us all this night, and wee have little hopes of any safty yet. 18 As bad still, and wee are glad wee can put our ship before the wind to com to any port ; but wee strive for Lysbon in Portugall. God send us safe in any port ! for our ship is miserably shaken, and our men all tyred off their leggs, and much dishartened. 19 Somwhat more calme wind and seas. At 10 a SEPTEMBER 1676. 211 clock wee discover a ship coming before the wind after us. Wee were all very busy on board, som re- pareinge our boats, which were boath broaken upon the decks, others drying their cloaths and beddinge, for all things were wett; whilst of a sudden this ship was up with us, and also as wee supposed ready to board us. Wee discover her to be a Turkish man of warr : wee were in a poore condition to fight, our ship being ready to sink under us, and hadd certaynly done so in an houre's time, if she had not beene pumped. Wee all leave our buisnes wee were about, and make ready what greate gunns wee could, in that short time, and every on that could tooke up a muskett. Shee proved an Argereene, and tooke us for a Portugall : wee hayle her ; and their boate coming on board shewed her passe. The leiftenant that cam was an English renegado, whoe told us they did not suspect us to be English, but that they cam up so boldly, intending to lay us on board; but once seeing the syd of our ship, they wisht themselves farther from us. They had 400 men aboard. At sunn setting, to our greate joy, wee see the Rock of Lysbone. 20 By 8 in the morning wee com to the Rock ; and at 10 wee take in a pylate ; at 12 wee passe betweene Snt. Jenning's castle and the woodden fort (as it was formerly, but now tis great part of it of stone) ; and about 1 of the clock wee com to an anchor in the river Tagus, and just over against the religious house, for wee must com no farther till wee have leave. Here wee meete with part of the Ham- p 2 &i:ptember 1676.. 212 burgers fleete (for they had lost 5 of their company in the same storme on Satterday): the Admyrall gave us 1 5 gunns, at severall times, resolving to give us the last gunn, and our Captaine knowing his humor gave him 13. And here wee hoped to have mett or heard of our companions, the Dartmouth, Martin, and another small ship that cam into our company from Mar- celles ; but wee heare nothing at all of any of them, so that wee feare they are all lost. 21 A summars day ; and fitt for our purpose to puU ocum and dry our sayles. 22 Instead of haveing leave given us to mend our tottered ship, wee have commaund brought us to be gon speedily out of their haven: which wee cannot doe, for all our gunns and stores are carryed to the hinder part of the ship ; that by lifting up the fore- part, wee might the better com at the maine leake. But all in vaine ; there is no coming to it. At 3 a clock word is brought that we shall have leave to morrow to lay our ship aground. Now the Hambur- gers heare of 4 of their lost ships, which were driven to Snt. Toobys, and are safe ; so that wee are not out of hopes to heare also of our companions. 23 Fayre weather also to day ; but small hopes of mending our ship. (24) A sermon this day — ^Thy kingdom com. At 7 at night cam the Leiuetenant of the Castle, and the Prattick Master, with a message from the Prince Regent and the Chamber, to command us to be gon out of their port within 24 bowers ; or else wee EPTEMBER 1676 213 must looke to be fyred out, as on of our merchants was about a fortnight before.'^ And to afFrite us, their Vice AdmiraU of 60 odd gimns corns down and anchours very neare us ; yet wee were resolved to stay rather then sink in the sea. 25 Haveing corked and mended our starboard syd as well as wee could, wee repayre the larboard syd ; hopeing still to be brought in her safe to England ; but can by no meanes stop the maine leake. But our carpenters nayle on sheets of leade, and clapt in greate peices of tymber to strengthen her larboard quarter, which was much shaken. This day the pigions I gave to Mr. Berry flew away, about 4 of the clock. 23 This day wee putt up new shrouds, and sling our yards, to prevent the worst ; resolveing to answer their Vice Admii^aU in the same coyne, in case that he fyre at us. Latet anguis in herba. Who knows what he may doe ? '° The historians of the period do not throw any light upon this behaviour of the Regency of Portugal towards the English ; unless, indeed, it arose from the disgust the Portuguese had very naturally conceived for the English nation altogether^ on account of its treatment of the Queen of Charles 11. the sister of their late sovereign. This Princess was neglected by Charles, and disliked by his subjects ; and the unpardonable insult offered to her by Oates, who denounced her to the King as privy to, and even an encourager of, a design to poison him, by means of her phy- sician, Sir George VVakeman, and for which the incendiary was suffered to go unpunished, (though the King, himself, knew the accusation to be utterly false,) was sufficient to provoke the angry feelings of a people much less susceptible of insult than the Portuguese. There does not, however, appear to have been any serious rupture between the two nations at this time. SEPTEMBER 1676, 214 27 At 6 in the afternoone our Captaine salutes our English Consull (whoe cam to us from shoare) with 7 gunns. Wee have no water yet, but are promised to have liberty to fetch som ; but must take it for a greate favour. Tis bad weather all day, and a tem- pestuous night ; tis well wee are in port. 28 The same weather for wind and raine ; and wee can doe nothing at all. 29 Michaelmas Day ; and wee remember our friends in England once more. An English catch and a merchant called the William, cam in this morning. 30 Haveing leave now given us, wee fetch som fresh water ; and also (Oct. 1) This day too, for all tis Sunday. Wee have prayers, but no sermon ; our Captaine being not well. 2 Wee fetch more water ; and to helpe the ship wee strike downe 8 more of our gunns ; hopeing to sayle now very shortly. 3 Wee corke the decks. 4 Make bucketts to bayle withal at sea, if neede bee. 5 6 The same woorke boath these days. 7 By a ship from England wee heare of the safe arrivall of our Admirall Sir John Narbrough and his fleete at Portchmouth, No newes of our companions. Our English Consull supt on board us this night, and wee gave him 7 gunns. (8) No prayers to day; by 12 wee are under sayle once more for England ; God blesse the King's ships ! And now wee have pickt up 5 companions, and are well off the Rock neare Lisbone. Very ruff wea- ther ; clowdy. OCTOBER 1676. 215 9 Cloudy, darke, and rayny weather ; but wee have a fayre wind, that s comfort. 10 The same bad weather, and as crosse a wind. 1 1 Fayre wind and weather. 12 A fayre but stronge gale; and wee are entering on the dangerous Bay of Biscay. Deus fortunet progressurn! 1 3 The wind still favours us. At two a clock wee beare downe to our companions, who are som leages a starne. Whoe tooke our ship for an Argereene, and were sore afrayd ; but after were glad of our company. 14 Fayre wind and weather on the Bay of Biscay, and that 's good newes. (15) A fayre day, and a crosse wind. I preacht a ser- mon ; the last on that text, 16 A scant wind. And this day I saw a wood- cock and a wrenn on our ship ; and yesterday many linnets, though so farr at sea. Why should any man be afrayd to goe to sea, when these birds dare crosse the Bay of Biscay ? Betweene 12 and on of the clock, Summersett Evins goeing up the mizon chaines to cleare the pen- dent, fell downe, and was drounded. A little after 3, all the 4 ships in our company give us 5 gunns apeice ; and wee answer them with 3 apeice, and so wee part ; and wee make what sayle wee can for England. Deus nobiscum sit precor I 1 7 Fayre weather, and the winde so ; but wee feele it very cold. OCTOBER 1676. 216 18 Gallant weather, and wee are in the soundmgs. The wine given by the noble Alopeenes is divided* amonge the sea men only. At 5 a clock wee sound, and find 70 fathums. 19 Wee are very joyful! to see land once more. They are the ilands called Syllae, and lye west of Eng- land, belonging to the French. 20 The weather is fay re, but the wind is crosse and colde ; and wee see St. Michael's Mount, and other parts of Cornwall. 2 1 Fayre, but cold and hazy ; that wee cannot see the land. At 2 wee discover the Lizard poynt ; but have a cross wind. (22) Raine and much wind, and very turbulent. No prayers to day. 23 We have not got 4 leages forward these 2 days, 24 Wee strive hard for Famouth ; but cannot gett in as yet. 25 This morning by 8 of the clock wee are at an anchor in Famouth Roade, under Pendenice Castle, ' where wee must take in provision. 26 I went a shoare to Famouth ; and cam not away tiU Satterday 28. Here wee spent all my TurkisTi gold, viz. 4 good chekeens. (29) Wee had prayers, but no sermon. At 4 wee are under sayle ; but not haveing time to get out, wee drop our anchor againe. 30 A fayre day, but very cold. 31 And so to day. On Arrowsmyth, for lying a shoare without leave, was ducked at the yard arme. NOVEMBER 1676. 217 Nov. 1 This morning by 8 wee are going out of the har- bour, and with a fay re gale. Nobiscum Dominus! 2 Wee have had a greate run since wee cam out. The weather is very hazy : about 12 wee make land, viz. the Fayre Lee ; and at 8 wee cam to an anchor in the Downs, where every ship wee cam by did bid us hartily welcom, supposing wee had beene all drownded. 3 The wind so violent that wee are forced to loare oiu" yards and topmasts. 4 A fayre gale invits us up the river ; and this morn- ing by 7 wee are under sayle ; and saluted by all, as wee cam by them ; who before they saw us, gave us over for lost longe since. At 10 wee cam to an anchor in Marget Roade ; wey againe at 3, and anchor at 5 in the Goare. (5) Here wee have a sermon ; Psal. Ixii. 3. 6 No stiring this day. 7 To day by 8 wee sayle. By 12 at anchor againe at Shernesse. Wee salute the fort with 1 1 gunns ; they doe the same to us. Here wee are soone visitted by many friends, whoe had thought never to see any of us againe. 8 Our Captaine's wife, and our Master's, and Doc- tor's, and Carpenter's wives cam all aboard, crying for joy to see us, whom they thought lost. 9 10 Wee have got a pylate aboard, and are got out about 3 ; and at 7 are run a ground at Spitt-end. Wee are soone off againe, and at anchor at 1 2 in the upper end of the Hope, neare Gravesend. NOVEMBER 1676. 218 1 1 Under sayle at 1 0, and at anchor at the Halfeway Tree at on a clock. (12) No prayers. Half our men are on shoare. 13 14 Wee get out our gunns, pouder, and shott ; and honest Mall Walker, Anne, and John cam to see mee, and wee were very merry. 15 16 Wee com with the tyde to Bedford, and anchor closse to the Bangor. 17 Friday, the 17th of November, wee are payd off at Bedford ; where wee leave the rottenest frigot that ever cam to England. And here our voyage ends. Henry Teonge. July 25, 1678. ARTICLES OF PEACE AND COMMERCE Betweene our Soveraine and mighty Prince Charles the lid, King of Greate Brittaine, Fraunce, and Ireland, Defender of the Christian Faith ; and the Most Il- lustrious Haltll Bashaw, Ibraim Dey, and Aga Di- van, Governours of the noble cytty and kingdom of Tripolie in Barbary: Concluded betweene Sir John Nor- B ROUGH, Knight and Admirall of his Majesty's fleete in the Mediterranean seas, 1675. 1. First it is concluded and agreed^, that from this day and for ever, there be a true and firme and inviolable Peace betweene our Soveraine King Charles the lld King of England^ &c. ; and the most illustrious Lords^ the Bashaw, Bey, Divan, Governers of the cytty and kingdom of Tripolie, in Barbary ; and betweene the dominions and subjects of eyther syde. And that the sub- jects and ships or other vessells, and the people of boath syds, shall not hence forth doe to each other any harme, offence, or injury, ether in word or deede, but shall treate on another with all possible respect and friendship. 2. That any of the ships or other vessels belonging to the King of Great Brittaine, or to any of his Majesty's subjects, may safly com to the place of Tripolie^ or to any other port or place of that kingdome^ or dominions there unto belonging, freely to buy or sell, without the least disturbance, paying the usuall custom as in former times hath bin payd for such goods as they sell ; and for the goods they sell not, they shall have free liberty to carry on board their owne ships againe, without paying any 220 duty for the said goods. And when they please they shall freely depart from thence, without any stop, hinderance, or molesta- cion whatsoever. 3. That all ships and other vessells, as weU those belonging to the King of England, or to any of his subjects, as also those belonging to the people or kingdom of Trypolie, shall freely passe the seas, and traffick where they please, without any search, hinderance, or molestacion from each other. And that all persons and passengers of what country soever ; and all monys, goods, merchandizes, and moveables, to whatsoever place or nation belonging, being on board of any of the said ships or vessells, shall be wholly free, and shall not be stopped, taken, or plundered, or receive any harme or damage whatsoever from eyther party. 4. That the Trypolie ships of warr, or other vessells therunto belonging, meeting with any merchant ships or any other vessels belonging to the King of Great Brittain's subjects, not being on any of the seas of his Majesty's dominions, may send on board on single boate, with two sitters besyds the ordinary crue of rowers ; and no more but the two sitters only to enter any of the said merchant ships or other vessells, without expresse leave of every commander of such ships or vessells ; and then upon pro- duceing unto them a passe under the hand and seale of the said High Admirall of England, the said boate shall presently de- part, and the merchant ships or vessells proceede freely on her or their voyage. And though the commander or commaundors of the said shipps or other vessells produce no passe under the hand and seale of the Lord High AdmiraU of England, yet if the major part of the vessells company be subjects to the said King of England, the said boate shall presently depart, and the vessell or vessells shall proceede freely on their voyage. And if any of the ships of warr or other vesseUs of his said Majesty, meeting with any ship or ships, or any other vessell or vessells belonging to Trypolie, if the commaundor there of shall pro- duce a passe signed, by the chiefe governours of TrypoHe, and a certificate from the English Consull then liveing there ; or if they have no such passe or certificate, if the major .part of the 221 cwnpany be Turks, IMoores^ or slaves belonging to Trypolie, the said ship or vessell shall proceede freely on their voyage without any molestacion. 5. That no commander or other person, or any ship or vessell of Trypolie, shall take out of any ship of his said Majesty any person or persons whatsoever, to carry them any where to be ex- amined, or upon any other pretence ; nor shall use any tortures of violence to any person of what quality or nation soever, being on board any of his Majesty's ships or vessells, or of any of his subjects' ships or vessells, upon any pretence whatsover. 6. That no shipwrak of any vessell belonging to the King of Greate Brittaine, or to any of his subjects, upon any part of the coasts of Trypolie, shall be made or becom prize; and neyther the goods thereof shall be seased, nor any of the men made slaves ; but that all the subjects of Trypolie shall doe their best indea- vours to save the said men and their goods. 7- That no ship or other vessell of Trypolie shall have per- mission to be delivered up, or to goe to any other place in enmity with the said King of Great Brittaine, to be made use of as the easier or sea-roavers against his Majesty or subjects. 8. That non of the ships or other vessells of Trypolie shall re- main crusing neare his Majesty's cytty and garison of Tangeate, or in sight of it, nor any way disturb the peace or commearce of that place. 9. That if any ships or vessell belonging to Tunnis, Argeare, Titiwan, SaUy, or any other place being in warr with the King of Great Brittan, shall bring any ship or vessells, men or goods, belonging to his said Majesty or any of his subjects to Trypolie, or to any part or place in that kingdom, the Governors there shall not permitt any of these to be sould within the teritoris of Trypoly. 10. That if any of the ships of warr of the said King of Great Brittain shall com to Trypolie, or to any other place or part of that kingdom, with any prize, they may freely sell it, or dispose of it at their pleasure, without being molested by any. And that his Majesty's ships of warr shall not be obleedged to pay custom in any part of that kingdom. And that if they shall 222 want provision^ victualls^ or any other things, they may freely buy them at the rates of marketts. 11. That if any of his Majesty's ships of warr shall appeare before Trypolie, upon notice thereof given to the English Con- sul!;, or by the Commander of the said ship to the Cheife Go- vernor of Trypoly, publick proclamation immediatly be made to secure the Christian Captives ; and if after that any Chris- tians whatsoever make their escape on board any of the said ships of warr, they shall not be requyred back againe ; nor shall the said ConsuU or Commander, or any other, pay any thing for the said Christians. 12. That if any subject of the King of Greate Brittaine dye in Trypolie, or any of its teritorys, his goods and monys shall not be seazed by the Governors, or any Ministers of Trypolie, but shall remaine in the hands of the English Consull. 13. That neyther the English Consull, nor any other subject of the said King of Great Brittaine shall be bound to pay the debts of any other of his Majesty's subjects ; except they becom security for the same by a publick act. 14. That the subjects of his Majesty in Tripolie and its teri- torys in matters of controversy shall be lyable to no other juris- diction then that of the Dey or Divan ; except it happen that there is difFerrence betweene them : in which case they shall be liable to no other determination but that of the Consull only. 15. That in case any subject of his said Majesty, being in any part of the kingdom of Trypolie, shall happen to strike, wound, or kill on Turke or Moore ; if he be taken, he is to be punished in the same manner, and with no greater severity, then a Turke ought to bee, being guilty of the same offence. But if he make his escape, neyther the English Consull, nor any other of his Majesty's subjects shall in any sort be questioned therefore. 16. That the English Consull, now or any time hereafter liveing in Trypolie, shall be there at all times with intyre free- dom aiid safty of his person and estate ; and shall be permitted to choose his owne druggarman andbroaker, and freely to goe on board any ship in the roade, as often and when he pleaseth ; and to have the liberty of the country ; and that he shall be alowed 223 a place to pray in ; and that no man shall injure him in word or deede. 17. That not only the continuance of this peace and friend- ship^ but likwise if any breach or warr happen to be herafter be- tween the said King of Greate Brittaine^, and the cytty or king- dom of Trypolie ; that then the said Consull and all others his said Majesty's subjects inhabiting in the kingdom of Trypolie, shall allways and at all times of peace and warr, have full and absolute liberty to depart, and goe to their owne, or any other country, upon any ship or vessell of any nation whatsoever they shall think fitt ; and carry with them all their estates, goods, famely, and servants, allthough borne in the country, without interruption or hindrance. 18. That no subject of his Majesty, being a passenger from or to any port, shall be any ways molested or medled with, although he bee on board any ship or vessell in enmity with Trypolie. 19. That wheras a warr hath lately happened betweene the most Soveraine King of Great Brittaine, and the most Illustrious Lords Halill, Bashaw; Ibraim, Dey; Aga, Divan, and Go- vernors of the noble cytty and kingdom of Trypolie, in Barbary ; by reason of injury s done to the said King of Great Brittaine and his subjects, by the people of Trypolie, contrary to the articles of peace : wee Halill, Bashaw ; Ibraim, Dey ; Aga, Divan, and Governors of the cytty and kingdom of Trypolie, in Barbary, doe acknowledge the injurys ; and that the breach of peace betweene us was made by our subjects, for which som are banished, and som are fled from our justice. And for farther satisfaction to his most excellent Majesty, wee are sorry for the breach of articles, and doe by these presents ingage to set. at liberty and deliver to the Right Honourable Sir John Norbrough all the English captives resyding in the cytty and kingdom of Trypolie and the dominions therof, with out paying any ransom for themj and by paying eighty thousand dollars in monys, goods, and slaves, to the said Sir John Norbrough. And for the future wee doe engage for our selves and successors, that if any injurys be done by any of the people of the kingdom of Trypolie 224 to any of the King of Great Brittain's subjects^ so that a warr be made betweene them, wee doe engage our selves and suc- cessors to make satisfaction not only for the wronge done, but also for all the charges of that warr to the King of Greate Brittaine. 20. That no subject of his Majesty aforesaid shall be permitted to turne Turke or More, in the kingdom of Trypolie, except he voluntarily appears before the Dey or Governor 3 tims in 24 houres with the English Consull or Druggar man, and every time declare his resolution to turne More or Turke. 21. That at all times when a ship of warr carrying his Ma-^ jesty's flagg at the main top mast, shall appear, and com to an anchor in the roade of Trypolie, immediatly after notice given to the Governor of Trypolie by the Consull, or Governor of the said ship, in honour to his Majesty the Trypoleens shall cause a salute of 21 peices of cannon from their castell or forts; and that ship shall returne as many. 22. That presently after the signing and sealing of the pre- sent articles, wee Halill, Ibraim, Aga, Governors of the cytty and kingdom of Trypolie, doe declare, that all injury s on boath syds set asyd, that this peace shall be in full force and virtue, and continue. And that for all depredacions that shall be committed by the aforesaid before notice of the peace can be given, full satisfaction shall be made immediatly, and what remains in kind shall immediatly be restored. 23. That whensoever it shall happen that any thing is done or committed by the ships or subjects of eyther syd, contrary to any of these articles of peace, satisfaction being demanded, shall forthwith be made. And that it shall not be lawfuU to breake this peace till full satisfaction be denyd ; and our faith shaU be our faith, and our word our word. And whosoever shall be the cause of breaking of this peace, shall be punished with death. Confirmed and sealed in the presence of the Almighty God, the first day of March, ould stile, A. D., 1675 ; and the last day of the Moone Zechedya, and in the yeare of the Hegira On Thousand Eighty Six. 226 NOTE. It appears that very soon after the ratification of the preceding Articles of Peace, and the consequent departure of the Enghsh squadron from before Tripoly, several of the corsairs, who had been absent during the negotiation, returned into port, and, being dissatisfied with an arrange- ment by which their piratical avocations would be so materially curbed, excited a commotion in the city, and deposing the Dey, who was fortunate enough, by a precipitate flight, to escape with his life, sent out their cruizers, and recommenced their depredations upon the English. Sir John Narborough was, however, still in the Mediterranean, and having notice of their infraction of the Treaty, he immediately returned with eight frigates before the city of Tripoly, and without any parley began to batter the place with so much violence and effect, that the populace, terrified at the consequences of their breach of faith, compelled the new Dey to sue for a renewal of the Peace, and deliver up the authors of the rupture to be punished. The following Articles are given by our author as those agreed to by the Tripolitans upon this occasion. Whereas there were Articles of peace and commerce made and confirmed^ signed and sealed^ in the presence of Almighty God, and betweene the King of Great Brittaine, &c. and the Governors of the cytty and kingdom of Trypoly in Barbary, Sec. and since that time the Lord Ibraim, Dey, is fled from the said cytty and kingdom. Now therfore, wee Halill Bashaw; Aga Divan; with the souldyers and people of Trypoly, &c. have chosen and elected Vice-Admirall Mustapha Grande, to be Dey of the said cytty and kingdom, to succeed Ibraim, Dey, in the aforesaid Govern- Q 226 ment= And now wee^ the sayd Governors^ soldyersj and people of Trypoly aforsaid^ doe consent unto and approve of every of the said articles^ and of every part of them. And wee and every on of us doe now, by these presents, consent and agree to and with Sir John Norbrough aforesaid, for the true and exact keeping and performinge all the said articles ; and doe accept, approve, ratify, and confirme all and every of them, in the same manner and forme as they are inserted and reported in the sayd preceding articles : hereby engageing our selves and successors, and assureing on our faith, sacredly to maintaine and strictly to observe, performe, and keepe inviolably, all and every of the aforesaid articles of peace, and commerce, and agreement, even for ever. And will cause and require all our subjects and people, of what degree soever, boath by sea and land, punctually and duely to observe and keepe inviolable every part of them ; and our faith shall be our faith, and our word our word. And whosoever shall at any time breake any or any part of the aforesaid articles, shall assuredly be punished sevearely, and his head shall be cutt off, and immediatly delivered to any of his Majesty's officers that shall make demaund therof. Tis farther agreed, that any of the King of Great Brittain's subjects trading to any port of this kingdom of Trypoly, in any vessell whatsoever, shall not pay so much custom by on per cent, for whatsoever they sell or buy, as other nations doe for the like merchandize. And also that the English Consul! here shall have free liberty to hoyst the English flagg at his pleasure on his house-top ; and also to carry the said flagg in his boate on the water when he pleaseth. These, and all other the preceeding Articles between the partys aforesaid, are to remaine firme and without alteration for ever. Which the Grand Senior also confirmed and sealed in the presence of Almighty God, at our castell, in the noble cytty and kingdom of Trypoly, May the first, olde stile, 1676^ being the 26 day of the moone Zaphire, and the yeare of Hegira, 1087. MY SECOND VOYAGE TO SEA, BEGAN MARCH 31 ST, 1678. Have IN G (by God's blessing) finished my first voyage into the Mediterranean seas, (wherin I gott a good summ of monys, and spent greate part of it), I resolved to make another voyage, with a full in- tention to keepe what I could gett. My desyre was to visit the western parts (if pos- sible I could.) And finding out Captaine Antony Langston,^^ whoe was promised a ship for Virginea, '^ We have been able to procure but little information relative to the professional career of Captain Langston^ further than that in 1666 he was appointed to the command of the Vanguard, and in 1667 removed to the Princess^, and subsequently to the Royal Exchange. In 1670 he was made Captain of the New- castle, and sent to the Mediterranean, and in September of the same year was deputed as joint commissioner with Captain Hel- ling, of the Mary, to negotiate a peace with the Regency of Algiers. A treaty was soon afterwards concluded, and on such advantageous terms as afforded considerable proof of the abilities of the commissioners. Captain Langston returned to Europe in 1671-2 and the Newcastle being soon afterwards put out of com- mission, he had no other appointment till the month of March, 1678, when, being made Commander of the Bristol, he was again sent to the Mediterranean. During this expedition, he met with great success, having in the month of January, 1679, driven on shore and destroyed three of the principal corsairs belonging to Sallee. On the 14th of the same month he was promoted by q2 MARCH 1678. 228 with little perswation, I engaged my selfe to goe with him whether soever he was commaunded. In persuance of this promise, I stayd at London 3 quarters of a yeare, and was every weeke in hopes of seeing my Captaine have his commission ; but being quite tyred with so longe delays, I resolved to goe into the country, my Captaine haveing assured mee, that he would give mee notice to com up, so soone as he had his commission. And though I was glad to see my relations and olde acquaintance, yet I lived very un-easy, being dayly dunnd by som or other, or else for feare af land pyrates, which I hated worse then Turkes ; though I was sufficiently provided for them, if they had made any attempt. The 18th day of March, I received what I had so long expected, viz. a letter from my Captaine, to com up to London, for now his commission was graunted. I sent him word by the next post that I would be with him in Easter weeke ; and I provided accord- ' ingly. March 31 I resolved to goe in the Warwick coatch. Ther- fore on Easter day, (havein administred the sacrament at Spernall to my parishoners), about three of the clock, with my wife behinde mee, I rod towards lYarwick, desyreing to be there that evening ; that Sir John Narborough to the Royal Oak, into which ship he re- moved, according to the Diary, on the 16th, and in the command of which he died in Alicant Roads on the 19th of March follow- ing.— Teonge, who appeared to be much attached to Captain Langston, has, in a subsequent page, given us the Epitaph which he composed for him. APRIL 1678. 229 so I might be ready to goe in the coatch next morn- ing. This night I supped at my sonn George his house, and had to supper a shoulder of mutton, and a most excellent pike stewed, and another fryed. 1 1 This morning I parted from my cousin George Smyth, my sonns George and Henry at Lemington, haveing left my wife at Warwick ; and in the coatch- waggon^' my sonn Thomas and I and twoe women went for London. ^^ Vehicular conveyance^ as applicable to general travelling, was at this period but in its infancy in this country ; and the rude and cumbrous manner in which carriages were at first con- structed will account for the term " Coach -waggon/' which, ac- cording to our modern ideas, that associate whatever is light and rapid with ordinary travelling, sounds rather heavily. That even such conveyance was not then common, may be inferred from the Hudibrastic style in which the worthy Chaplain equipped him- self for his journey previous to the first voyage — see p. 1. The following observations, partly extracted from " Some Remarks on the early Use of Carriages in England, and on the modes of tra- velling adopted by our ancestors," by J. H. Markland, Esq. prin- ted in the XXVIIIth volume of the Archaeologia, will afford some amusing and interesting information on the subject. — We are led to infer that the horse-litter and the chair were the most an- cient modes of conveyance employed by persons of rank in this country, and that they were rarely, if ever, used but on occasions of ceremony, or in cases of sickness. It would seem that coaches were unknown in England in the time of Luther, who died in 1546 ; and, according to Stow, the first coach used here was built in 1565, by Walter Ripen, for the Earl of Rutland. For some time after the introduction of car- riages, the weight of them, the clumsiness of their construction (being without springs), and the state of the roads, prevented their being commonly employed in journeys; and there are suffi- cient instances upon record to show, that to a late period of the seventeenth century the highways, even in the immediate neigh- APRIL 1678. 230 3 This day by 3 of the clock wee cam safe to the Bell in Smythfeild ; and haveing visited my cousin Tyler's house, I went to the Temple, to my Captaine, bourhood of London^ were in a neglected and frequently almost impassable state for vehicles of any description- In the correspondence of Sir George RatclifFe, we have many proofs of the serious inconvenience that attended travellers in the early part of the seventeenth century ; at which time the communication between the north of England and the Univer- sities was kept up by carriers^, who pursiied their tedious but uni- form route with whole trains of packhorses^ and to their care was consigned not only the packages^ but very frequently the per- sons of young scholars. About 1 640 the wife of Henry, last Earl of Cumberland, in a tedious journey from London to Lanesborough, which occupied eleven days, either from the state of the roads, or disdaining to use the metropolitan luxury of a carriage, appears to have ridden the whole way on horseback, having thirty-two horses in her train. Wood, in his Diary, first mentions a stage-coach under the year 1661, and six years afterwards he informs us he travelled to London from Oxford by such a conveyance. The journey occu- pied tivo days ! A convey ance was afterwards invented, called the Flying Coach, which completed the journey between Oxford and London in thirteen successive hours, but it was soon found necessary to abandon it, at least during the winter months. The following anecdotes will evince, that, for a long time sub- sequent to this period, the state of the public roads was so defec- tive, that public convenience and accommodation in travelling were almost wholly neglected. In December 1703, Charles HI. King of Spain, slept at Petworth on his way from Portsmouth to Windsor, and Prince George of Denmark went to meet him there by desire of the Queeen. In the relation of the journey given by one of the Prince's attendants, he states, "^ We set out at six in the morning, by torchlight, to go to Petworth, and did not get out of the coaches (save only when we were overturned or stuck fast in the mire) till we arrived at our journey's end. 'Twas a hard service for the Prince to sit fourteen hours in the coach that day without eating any thing, and passing through the worst ways I ever saw in my life. We were thrown but APRIL 1678. 231 whoe told mee that on Mr, Crofts had gotten the King's warrant for liis ship. Therfore that same night I went by water to the Bishop of London at FuUum ; where I had little incoui-agement. once indeed in going, but our coachj which was the leading one, and his Highness's body coach, would have suffered very much, if the nimble boors of Sussex had not frequently poised it, or sup- ported it with their shoulders, from Godalming almost to Pet- worth, and the nearer we approached the Duke's house the more inaccessible -it seemed to be. The last nine miles of the way cost us six hours' time to conquer them ; and indeed we had never done it, if our good master had not several times lent us a pair of horses out of his own coach, whereby we were enabled to trace out the Avay for him." Afterwards, writing of his departure on the following day from Petworth to Guildford, and thence to Windsor, he says, '^ I saw him (the Prince) no more, till I found him at supper at Windsor j for there we were overturned (as we had been once before the same morning), and broke our coach ; my Lord Delawarre had the same fate, and so had several others." — Vide Annals of Queen Anne, vol. ii. Appendix, No. 3. In the time of Charles (surnamed the Proud) Duke of Somer- set, who died in 1748, the roads in Sussex were in so bad a state^ that, in order to arrive at Guildford from Petworth, travellers were obliged to make for the nearest point of the great road leading from Portsmouth to London. This was a work of so much difficulty, as to occupy the whole day, and the Duke had a house at Guildford which was regularly used as a resting-place for the night by any of his family travelling to London. A ma- nuscript letter from a servant of the Duke, dated from London, and addressed to another at Petworth, acquaints the latter that his Grace intended to go from London thither on a certain day, and directs, that, '' the keepers and jjersons who knew the holes and the sloughs must come to meet His Grace with lanthorns and long poles to help him on his way." It is only necessary to contrast the above relations with the present state of the public roads, and modes of conveyance, to see what immense strides have been made, within a century, towards the internal improvement of this country. APRIL 1678. 232 4 This morning our noble Captaine made my son Thomas a waterman, and tooke him and my selfe with him to White-hall, where (after a little stay in the Long Gallery) our Capt. cam to mee and told mee I should kisse his Majesty's hand. He had no sooner sayd so but the King cam out ; my Capt. presented mee to the King, saying, An't please your Majesty, this gentleman is an old cavaher, and my Chaplen. I kneeled downe ; he gave me his hand. I kist it, and said, Pray God blesse your Majesty ! He answered, God blesse you boath together ! twice ; and walked alonge the Gallery his woonted large pace. '^^ And from thence (resolveing to have no denyall, seeing I had, as I thought, sufficient warrant for my place), I went againe to FuUum ; but the Bishop was gon to London. I followed him, and watched him so narrow- ly, that I found him goeing up the back stares to the House of Lords, and (almost whether he would or '^ The Marquis of Halifax, in his " Character of King Charles II." notices the quick step, (or, as the Chaplain calls it, the " woonted large pace") of the King, in the following passage : — " There was as much of laziness as love in all those hours which he passed among his mistresses, who only served to fill up his seraglio, while a bewitching kind of pleasure, called sauntering, was the sultana queen he delighted in. The thing called sauntering js a stronger temptation to princes than it is to others : the being galled with importunities — pursued from one room to another by asking faces — the dismal sound of unreasonable complaints and illrgrounded pretences — the deformity of fraud ill-disguised — all these would make any man run away from them, and I used to think it was the motive for making him walk so fast." '' He walked by his watch, and when he pulled it out to look upon it, skilful men would make haste with what they had to say to him." APRIL 1678. 233 not) deliverd into his hand a sharpe letter from my Captaine. I askt him when I might waite on him againe ; he answerd very curtly, tomorrow ; for I could not expect an answer this day, because it was the day of the Lord Penbrooks tryall/* From that day I persued my reasonable request to his Lordship, following him from place to place, till 1 1 This morning I received my orders from him, and then, haveing heard somthing more of me, he was very kind, and told mee that he was sorry that I was not dispatched sooner. And 12 This morning I went to Derby house, and there I also received the King's warrant. And now being rectus ad curiam, and knowing that my Captaine, who went on board on Satterday, Aprill 6th, was not yet fallen downe any lower then the Hope, I was busy in looking for a convenient passage, but found non tiU Wensday. 24 This morning, accompany d with som friends, to Beare Key; the hoy-man told mee, that he could not goe till the morning. 25 This morning, accompanyd with the sam friends as before, Mr. Richard Dawes and my selfe went on ^'' We have taken some pains in endeavouring to ascertain who is the person meant by Teonge in this passage^ but unless he alludes to the impeachment of the Lord Treasurer Danby, which about this period was in agitation^ we are unable to offer any explanation of his meaning. There is nothing upon record to shew that Lord Pembroke was upon trial at this time ; and it is, on the other hand, certain that early in 1678 the House of Commons had resolved to impeach the Earl of Danby, who was thereupon dismissed from his appointment of Lord High Treasurer, and his office put into commission. APRIL 1678. _ 234 board a Sandwich hoy, where wee had lowsy lodg- ing, and as bad fare. 26 Before 6 this evening wee cam in to Sandwich Roade, but could not get to shoare, because the tyde would not serve ; and therfore were forced to stay there all that night at little ease. 27 This morning at 10 wee cam in to Sandwich; whence intending to goe on foote to Deale, and so on board our ship in the Downes, wee were certifyd that our ship and som others were that very morning gon back up to the Hope. All our monys was now spent, and how to follow our ship wee knew not : and here wee meete with Mr. Godwin, chaplen to the Mary Rose, in our condition, for shee was gon back with our ship. (28) Mr. Dawes and I went in the afternoone to Deale, where wee are certifyd that our ship is gon up to take in souldyers, and to carry them to Ostend.'" I much woondred that every thinge should fall out so crosse, and resolved to follow the ship back. 29 This morning wee take only our bedding, leave our chests in pawne, borrow som monys of Mr. Baker, our landlord, and goe on board a new hoy to follow our ship, then as high as Gravesend ; but wee had not sayled a mile, before our tessell ran a ground, and there stuck unmoveable. Now wee ^^ The nation at this period seemed determined upon a rup- ture with France^ and as the King had^ by his bad faith with Charles, considerably weakened the objections of the latter to hostilities^ several regiments were sent to Ostend;, in readiness for the opening of the campaign : the preparations, however, came to nothing. APRIL 1678. 235 were worse then before. This night I did much ad- mire that all meanes, though never so well intended, should prove so very crosse ; thence I prognosticated a crosse voyage, and could I have got but a reason- able price for my goods, I would have returned home again e. 30 But thinking our vessell might be got off againe, wee stay here at charges till 2 of the clock for the high-water. SeveraU meanes are used, but all in vaine ; the hoy could not be got off. Wee carry all our goods back to Mr. Baker's, borrow som more monys to beare our charges, and at 4 of the clock, or after, wee all resolve to goe on foote to Gravesend, 50 miles ; and leave all our goods at Sandwich. And that night wee went 10 miles to Canterbury. May 1 The sadest way and weather that I ever went in, raining all day and a very high wind, and dyrectly in our faces. SeveraU old men sayd they never knew such a May day ; yet were wee not daunted, but in spite of fate cam that night to Sittenburg ; they cald it 16, but wee tooke it for 20 miles. 2 This day about 5 a clock, with wearyd leggs, wee got to Gravesend ; being glad to see our shipps lye there at anchor. And about 7 I cam on board his Majesty's ship the BristoU, where our Captaine and all the gentlemen did much rejoyce, in pimch and brandy, at our safe arrivall. 3 This day wee expect souldyers on board us. In the afternoone Mr. Daws goes to London to see for som monys to redeeme our goods from Sandwich. 4 The prick Master coms on board, and enters me from the date of my warrant from the King, MAY 1678. 236 (5) Prayers, but no sermon ; our Captaine dyneing on the shoare. 6 This day's newes is, that wee are suddenly for Vir- ginea ; and our ship is Admirall, and our Captaine commands the Mary Rose and the Monmouth pen- dents in. 7 About 4 cam on barge full of souldyers on board us, and 2 more after them. The Lord Obryan cam with them ; at whose departure our Captaine gave him 7 gunns. Small rest this night. 8 About 1 1 wee wey anchor ; and for want of wind are towed about a mile, and there anchor againe. 9 Wee lye still for want of a wind. Punch and brandy since I cam on board have runn as freely as ditch-water. 10 This day I was invited on board the Monmouth by Captaine Willoby, Leiutenant CoUonel Solsbury, and Capt. Taylor and Captaine Talbut, where wee were full merry. 1 1 The wind is still contrary, and wee are where wee ■ were. Mr. Dawes, Tom, and his mother cam on board us this afternoone. (12) No prayers ; for, the wind serving, at 10 wee wey'd anchor for Ostend ; and anchor againe at 4 at the Buoy in the Oare. 13 Here wee are forced to lye all day, the wind is so very high. 14 Wee take up on anchor, and haule short, and so lye all night. 15 At 1 1 wee are under sayle ; and at anchor at 8 at night. MAY 1C78. 237 16 At 4 under saile againe ; and at anchor againe at 8* 1 7 Wee cam to an anchor over against Bridges ; and in sight of Ostend at 7 this morning ; before night om' souldyers were all fetcht off, being 900 men. 18 Om' barge went to Ostend this morning about buisnes, about 3 in the morning; and coming off, the wind and tyde being contrary, had like to have beene cast away ; but was releived by a privateare, whoe brought boath barge and men on board us, \jirhom our Captaine saluted with 5 gunns as his thanks ; he answered 5. (19) Witsunday. My first sermon on board the Bris- tow : the preamble to the Lord's Prayer. And wee are goeing towards the Downes. 20 This morning about 10 wee com to an anchor in the Downes. And at 12 Mr. Dawes and my selfe, and on more, goe to Deale ; and from thence to Sand- wich for our goods. There wee lye all night, and are very merry, 21 And this night also. 22 Mr. Dawes and I com back to Deale to looke for a waggon against the morning ; but returne in the evening unlookt for. 23 Wee send aU our goods to Deale, and (hayeing left our companion, who was for London the next morning,) wee com back to Deale, and not finding eyther our barge or longboate on shoare, wee were forced to lye there all night. And I had but Qd, left. 24 About 8 at night wee gott all our goods on board, though longe first ; and I playd a lesson or twooe on my vyall in the great cabin. MAY 1678. 238 25 A very stronge wind causeth us to lye at anchor all day. (26) Prayers morning and evening, but no sermon ; our Captaine being indisposed. Raine, and a stronge wind all day, 27 Wee lye still, expecting to saile every houre. And the evening so cleare, you may see the white shoares of France very easily. 28 This morning, accompany d with the Dunkirk, Mary Rose, and Antelopp, wee are under sayle at 1 1 for Harwich. And at 2, wee com to an anchor off the North-Foreland, and without the North- sands head. 29 By 3 in the morning wee are under saile againe with a small gale ; and at anchor in Harwich Roade about 3 in the afternoone. But about 12 a clock, all our ships remembring the festivall day, fyred so many gunns that they were buryed in their owne smoake ; and at dinner wee are faine to make shift with an excellent sallett and eggs, a fillett of veal ' roasted, a grand dish of maccarell, and a large lob- ster ; so hard is our fare at sea : and all washt downe with good Marget ale, March beere, and last of all, a good boule of punch, 30 Early in the morning our Captaine goes on shoare, and back at night. 31 Boats com to bring us in provision and beere. At 5 a clock June 1 Captaine Nayler's company coms on board us. (2) No prayers to day. In the afternoone halfe a com- pany of souldyers com on board us. JUNE 1678. 239 3 And more this morning. At 3 wee are under sayle, and for the coasts of Scottland, viz. the Dun- kyrke, Mary Rose, Antelop, and Bristoll ; all fraite with lobsters, viz. red-coats. At 7 wee com to an anchor over against Balsy Steeple : hear wee have made our land officers very merry ; and 4 At 4 in the morning wee are under saile, with a small gale, and at 8 over against Oxford Castle, and the light house on the Sands. At 2 there fell such a fogg, wee could not see on the other. 5 Wee are sayling now with a fayre wind. At 2 a clock, on of our Lobsters standing by the hatch-way, gazing about him, with his can in his hand, fell backwards into the hole, and being at the bottom with small hurt, he said, God's curse light upon the house ! I was never served such a trick before. And being askt how he cam thither, says he, I was walk- ing in the streets thinking no harme, and dropt downe into the sellar, and he swore he would not goe thence till he had som drinke. 6 A greate fogg all this morning ; so that wee all lost on another, till about 2 in the afternoone the fogg broake up, and wee cam altogether with rejoycing. 7 A very foggy and unwholsom weather, so that wee cannot see above a ships length ; but fyre musketts often, to tell where wee are. At 4 the fog brake up of a sudden ; and wee were all not above 2 leages from shoare, and easily see Newcastle and Tynmouth Castle, and all those coasts. Wee lye by all night, for feare of danger, just against Tyvitt-hills. 8 This morning wee com all to an anchor under JUNE 1678. 240 Bandbrough Castell, and near€ Holy Hand; where on wee landed our souldyers by our barge and longe boate at severall times. And from thence they went to Barwick, being distant 8 miles. 9 Prayers, but no sermon. Our Captaine went to see the Holy Hand, as the Scotts call it. Of which they'l tell you, that all the weeke 'tis incompassed with the sea, but on the Sunday you may goe over as drye as on a house flore. And this is only a Scotch trick ; for the truth is, tis fordable ; and you may ride over dry on Sundays, and so you may also any other day in the weeke, excepting in a spring tyde. 10 Wee prepare to sayle, but the wind favoured us not ; plenty of fish. 11 The wind coming about, wee are under sayle by 5, and for the Downes. This afternoone wee have a fayre kept on the quarter deck, of caps, neckcloths, wascotts, drawers, shirts, stockings, shooes, &c. Most of the wares are sould, but not on penny payd : you could but aske for what you wanted, and 'twas put > into your hands — but marke the end on't. 12 A crosse wind. About 5 of the clock wee found 2 boats fishinge, and bought of them ling and fresh codd of 4 foote in length for 6d. a peice ; brett and turbott for 2cl. a peice : cheap enough. 13 A very wett morning, but a fayre gale, on the Doggar Banke. 1 4 Wee are with a fayre gale on the Well Banke. 15 A scant wind now, and wee are all busy in take- ing makarell ; and wee end the week in drinking healths to our friends : and JUNE 1678. 241 (16) No prayers; for at 8 wee discover a sayle, and wee give her chase : she proves a prize taken from the Dutch by a Dunkirker^ and desyres us to shew how Dunkyrk boare, for they had lost themselves as well as their goods. At 3 wee discover the North Foreland. At 9 wee anchor in the Downes, where closse by us the Antelop ran on board the English Ruby, but cam off with small dammage. 17 A stronge wind. 1 8 The scolding woman was well washt to day. 19 Severall of the men of warr traine this day. A SONGE. To a mornfull new Tune. As like a hermite abroade I walked In a plesant and shady grove. Unto my selfe thus mee thought I talked, O what a hell 'tis to be in love ! I mus'd on Venus and Amarillis, And each be^vitching face and parte — But still my mind is for lovely Phillis, For shee alone doth injoy my harte. Much like Amintas, abroade I wander With my flock o'er the pleasant plaines ; But then my hart like a salamander A burning lyes with true love's paines : My pretty lambs so much beloved Formerly, are now forgott ; For Phillis' sake my love's removed. For Phillis' sak^ I know them not. I search the country for recreation. Where huntings, bankings, or shootings bee ; I ring, I bowle, or what's else in fashon. Yet no contentment in these I see : R JUNE 1678. '242 I ride to fayres, and to merry meetings^ To Whitson-ales and May-games too ; I vew their pastimes and pretty greetings^ Yet stilly my Phillis^ my hart 's with you. The land disliking, the seas I crossed. To forraine countrys I steare my ; The winds are angry, the ship is tossed. The matter still groes worse and worse : Raine, haile, and thunder are straingly mixed ; Our ship lys tumbling uppon the lee ; Our main-mast 's lost, and our helme unfixed ; Yet still, my Phillis, my hart 's with thee. This storme is over ; a worse ensues us ; — The Turkish squadron commaunds our stay : Our ship is hayled, the foe per sues us. And through them wee must force our way. The cannons, musketts, and petarreroes. Doe thunder, them and us to kill ; And dead or limblesse lye our heroes ; Yet on my Phillis my mind is still. By seas and land, too, thus have I wandred. Seeking som rest to my troubled mind : My time is spent, and my mony squandred. Yet no contentment at all I find. Then back to England to goe my will is. To seeke out Phillis where e'er shee bee ; 1 11 live and dye with my lovely Phillis, And shee shall live and dye with mee. Composed i?i the Dowries, July 26, 1678.' — H. T. 20 21 Two very hott days, and wee lye still, and make merry. 22 This day I went on board the Charles II. ; a ship of the first rate, and of greate force, carrying 96 gunns, and 710 men. Here I was courteously enter- tayned by the chaplen ; and JUNE 1678. 243 (23) I preacht this day — Our Father, &c. A very fayre day. 24 This day Capt. Tho. Langston and his Cornett cam to see our Capt. from Canterbury ; and wee were very merry. They went on shoare about 7 ; and at their going off wee gave them 3 cheares, and 7 gunns. 25 A stronge wind ; but wee are secure. 26 This day our Capt. is gon to Canterbury to see his kinsman. At 8 this morning, som of our simple seanjen, going to haule up our longe-boate, by their carelessenes let her goe a drift, haveing not an oare in her ; and had gon to Fraunce on a sudden, had not the tyde drove them accidentally uppon a buoy, where they stayd till they were releived. But a worse accident fell out: — Our long-boate being sent to Deale, all the men being to goe out, only 3 were left to looke to her. Of the which on John Rose, belonging to the gun-roome, undrest himselfe to his drawers and stockings, and the boate lyeing closse to the shoare, he threw his cloaths on tlie shoare, and was going out of the boate. He could swim very well ; but before he went into the water, he asked on of his companions if he could swim ? He answered. No : hee replys, Then thou art worse then a dogg, and with that word jumpt into the water, and in- stead of swiminge, he could only paddle in the water like a dogg, and was immediatly drowned. 27 This day he was taken up, and buryed on the sands. This day wee heare of sayling suddenly ; but whither wee know not. R 2 JUNE 1678. 244 28 29 Boath very fayre. And wee heare of carrying more souldyers. (30) No prayers. Wee begin to wey anchor at 8 ; and by 2, wee are under sayle for Harwich, to take in Sir Henry Goodridge his regiment for Ostend. Wee have with us the Asya, Antelop, the Drake, and a ketch. At 4 wee anchor before the North Foreland to stay for the Antelop's coming up. July 1 By 2 this morning wee are under sayle. At 7, at anchor off the Nathsland, neare Harwich. At 1 1 , under sayle againe. And at 3, at anchor before Harwich. 2 A wett day ; and wee fetch som fresh water from shoare. At 1, John Watson, of Stroud, cam to us with his ketch to carry souldiers. 3 Stormy weather, and showers often. 4 And so to day also. 5 This morne wee chainge our byrth, and anchor nearer to Harwich. 6 A fresh gale. Wee end the weeke with health to our friends. (7) Prayers, no sermon, I was invited to dinner on board the Asya, a neate ship ; and kindly entertained by Capt. Fortescue.76 '^ Captain Fortescue was appointed to the command of the Colchester in the year 1661. In 1666 he served as lieutenant of the Greenwich, and in the following year of the Ann. In 1672 he was commander of the Francis fire-ship, in 1673 of the Ann and Christopher, and lastly, on the 12th of April, 1678, he was appointed by Charles "the lid captain of the Asia, an hired man of war, after which we are not able to trace him. JULY 1678. 245 8 This day I went with our Captain e on shoare to Piiett Hand, where wee tooke above 10 douzen of young puetts. 9 This morning the new ship, called the Restoura- cion, a 2d rate, cam from the towne (haveing saluted the towne with 7 gunns), and anchored betweene the towne and Langor Fort. 10 Captaine Tayler and his 3 daughters, and Cap- taine Craford, and Mrs. Styles, dyned on board us ; at their going of wee gave 7 gunns. 11 At 3 Leiutenant Coll. Rumzy's company, and 12 Captain Norton's company, cam on board us. At 10 wee are under sayle. 13 At 10 this morning wee are at anchor before Ostend. (14) Our souldyers are all gon by 10. Wee have no time for prayers. The Antelop was under sayle (contrary to orders) at 3 ; our Captaine commaunded him back by a shott, but he went away, and 15 At 5 wee are under sayle. The wind slacking, at anchor at the North Foreland at 9 at night. 16 At anchor in the Downes. 17 18 I made my scabbard new. The sam day the Lord Strandford and his lady, and her sister, and severall others, cam from Sandowne Castle on board us. At their departure wee gave them 3 cheares, and 9 gunns. 19 20 Very ruff and wett weather. (21) Prayers morning and evening; our Capt. dyned at Sandowne Castell. JULY 1678. 246 22 I was on board the French Ruby, and much made of by Mr. Hodgeson. 23 This day the King is expected heare, but corns not. A new master coms on board us to day, viz. Mr. Sturke. 24 Salutes this morning from all the ships to Sir John Holmes,^^ whoe cam in last night about 9 a clock. Wee are all divided into squadrons. '"^ We find this distinguished officer Commander of the Jer- sey in 1664; and in the following year^ after having served as lieutenant of the Centurion, he was ajipointed Commander of the Saint Paul, and, what appears somewhat extraordinary, served in the beginning of the next year as a lieutenant of the same ship. He was in a short time removed into the Bristol, of which we find him Captain in the month of August. In the attack upon the Dutch fleet lying between the Islands of Ulie and Schelling in July 1665, he was posted in the line of battle as one of the seconds to his brother. Sir Robert Holmes. The most complete success attended the enterprize, two ships of war and a large fleet of merchant vessels being destroyed. On the following day the Commander of the fleet having landed a con- siderable body of soldiers on the island of Schelling, Captain > Holmes commanded one of the companies ; and having burnt the town of Bendaris, and carried ofl' a very considerable booty, the troops were reimbarked, with the loss of only 12 men killed and wounded. The very conspicuous gallantry of Captain Holmes in this aflair procured him the command of the Triumph, a second rate ; of which ship he probably continued Captain during the re- mainder of the war, although we have no subsequent notice of him till the year 1 668, when he was made Commander of the Falcon and Kent successively. In 1669 he went out with Sir Thomas Allen to the Mediterranean, as Commander of the Nonsuch. In 1670 he removed into the Bristol, and in the following year to the Diamond. During the time he commanded this ship he was singularly fortunate, as well as active, against the Algerines. Li the interval between the 24th of September and the 2d of October, he drove two of the principal corsairs from their station JULY 1678. 247 25 This day corns the ill tydings that our ship's voyage (which all this while was intended for Vir- off Cape Spartel ; but the night coming on before he could get near enough to bring them to action^ he was not able to effect any thing further against them. On the 2d of October he fell in with two other corsairs of SaUee^, one of which he drove on shore, her companion effecting her escape. Captain Holmes returning to England soon afterwards, was appointed to the Gloucester, one of the squadron under the command of his brother Sir Robert; when, in March following, he fell in with the Dutch Smyrna fleet. He behaved as usual with singular gallantry, and having boarded the Hollandia of 54 guns, commanded by their Rear- Ad- miral Van Es, he carried her after a very obstinate contest; but Jiis prize was unfortunately so much shattered in the action, that she sunk in a few hours after he had taken possession of her. For this service Captain Holmes received the honour of knight- hood, and was promoted to the Rupert of 64 guns. In the action between Prince Rupert and the Dutch on the 28th of May, 1673, his conduct was such that he was selected by the Prince for particular commendation; an event doubly honourable when the well-known valour of his less noticed contemporaries is considered. In the action of the 11th of August, he ably sustained the reputation he had acquired, being one of the thirteen Captains who contributed to defend the Prince from the formidable attack made upon him, towards the close of the action, by De Ruyter and the whole of his division. As soon as she was refitted, he was made Commander of the Royal Charles, the ship in which Prince Rupert had hoisted his flag, during the first engagement, as Commander-in-chief. On the 12th of April, 1677^ he was appointed Captain of the Montague, and two days afterwards was promoted to be a Rear- Admiral of the Blue, and Commander-in-chief in the Downs. On the 26th of March, 1678, upon the prospect of a rupture with France, Admiral Sir John Holmes hoisted his flag on board the Royal Charles, as Rear- Admiral of the Fleet in the narrow seas. On the 17th of April, 1679, we find him Commander-in-chief in the Downs ; and on the 23d of July in the same year he hoisted the Union flag at the maintop on board the Captain. From this pe- riod the naval annals are silent respecting his professional career. JULY 1678. 248 ginea) was altered, and wee now are ordered to goe into the Straits. Wee are all discontented, &c. A SONGE. The Tune — Though the tyrant hath stolen, S^^c. Though the Fates have ordayned my true love away. And I am constrained on ship-board to stay ; Let my dearest remember how faithful! 1 11 bee^ Neyther distance nor absence shall e'er alter mee. But in showers of sighs will I send to my deare. And make my owne harte eorespond to my feare, Till the soule of my love shall be pleased to see How delightfull her safest returne is to mee. Till then in my cabin confined 111 mone. And there will I sigh and sing O'hone ! Olione ! No joys shall delight mee by night or by day^ So longe as my dearest from ship-board shall stay. Yet my cabin 111 fancy, (though a prison it bee) 'Tis a thousand times better then a pallace to mee ; For the bedstock 1 11 kiss, and the pillow imbrace. For love to my dearest whoe lay in that place. When the cannons are roaring and tareing like thunder. When the ship is on fire, or likely to founder. When men that are wounded sing Loath to depart, The thoughts of my dearest shall comfort myne harte. And if the Fates, angry, thus ordered have. That in the deep seas I must dive for a grave, 111 wooe the kind dolphins to lend me a shell. To bring my harte safely on shoare to my Nell. But the plannetts at last I consulted each on. To know how propitious they'd bee to our mone; Where I found it inroUed, the heavens are agreed To grant both our wishes and hasten our speede. JULY 1678. 249 Then, dearest, be constant and true-liarted still. To him that is absent sore against his will ; I'll bee thy Leander — be Hero to mee. And the world shall ne'er know how delightfull wee '11 bee. Composed in the Dowries, July 26, 1678. — H. T. 26 By 5 this morning wee are under sayle, (all the men of warr in the Downes, a brave squadron,) and for Portchmouth, tis sayd. But all in our ship goe with sorrowfull harts, haveing lost so brave a voyage, which wee so longe expected, and to be so suddenly commaunded into the Straits, so unprovided of ne- cessarys for that voyage, haveing not the least time to take leave of our acquaintance, and also so ill man'd and gunn'd ; tis trouble enough. But the voyage proves very short, for the wind being against us w^ee sayled only to the South Foreland, and so cam back againe. 27 Such another voyage to day : wee sayled as far as Dover ; the forts saluted us with 2 1 gunns ; our Admirall answered as many ; and the wind being crosse, wee anchor'd in the Downes at on a clock, (28) Under sayle at 6, and a crosse wind, and at anchor at 12 before Sandgate Castle. No prayers ; nothing but tacking all day. 29 Under saile at 7 ; at on, at anchor under Dungines. 30 Under saile by 8 ; at anchor at 2, before Fayre Lee, catcliing whitings. 3 1 Now are wee, with a small crosse gale, before the Beachy, 8 bould ships : the Charles, French Ruby, Munmouth, Mountegue, Dunkyrk, Dreadnought, BristoU, Ann and Christofer, a fyre-ship. Wee AUGUST 1678. 250 wish in good earnest wee could meete as many more French. At on, wee anchor between the Beachy and the 7 CHffs. And Aug. 1 This morning at 6 under say le ; at anchor at 12. Wee observe to goe with the tyde, lying still when that is against us. 2 At 5 in the afternooiie at anchor at the Spitt Head ; where wee finde the Roy all Charles and the Roy all James, twoe stately shipps, and severall other frigotts ; where the shoares rang with salutes, on from the other, for the space of two howers. 3 The Prickmaster cam to muster us. (4) I preacht a sermon on the word, Father. Isaac Webb stood tied to the geares an howre, and had speculum oris placed in his mouth, for saying to a seaman in the Captain's hearing — 'Thou lyest, like a sonn of a whore," 10 This day in dinnar time cam a letter to assure us that wee were ordered for the Straits. Deus no- hiscum! (11) I preacht a sermon of thankfuUnes. Great fyring of gunns on shoare, to welcom the Governor, Col. Legg. At night cam an expresse relating a fight be- tweene the Prince of Orange and the French, where the English did woonders. 12 This day (haveing leave of our Captaine) I went with Mr. Peyton towards London, and were boath bejaded and tyred. And in that time that wee were gon to London, our ship went in to the dock to be cleaned ; where many of our men (because wee were sure to goe into the Straits) ran from the ship. AUGUST 1678. 251 Haveing seene sevcrall friends, and dispatcht som buisnes in London, I cam back to Portsmoutli with 27 Mr. Peyton ; and on board our ship on Tuesday, Aug. 27, where our Capt. bad us welcom. 28 I went on shoare to buy sope and other things for our voyage. 30 At least 100 gunns fyred for Sir Tho. Allen's ^^ de- parture. '^ Sir Thomas Allen^ descended from a respectable family of Lowestoffe in Suffolk^ began his naval career at an early age^ and on the 24tli Jiine^ 1660^ was appointed to the command of the Dover;, one of the first ships commissioned by the Duke of York as Lord High Admiral of England. In 1661 he commanded successively the Plymouth and the Foresight;, in 1662 the Lyon^ and in the following year the Rainbow. In the same year he vras appointed Commander-in-chief (as Commodore only) of the ships and vessels in the Downs^ and upon this occasion appears to have been allowed the privilege of wearing the Union flag at his maintop, and accordingly hoisted it on board the Saint Andrew. In 1664 he was appointed Commander-in-chief in the Mediterra- nean, to succeed Sir John Lawson, who was ordered home. He sailed on this service in the Plymouth, in company with the Crown, which was put under his orders. Early in the ensuing spring, being on a cruise with his squadron, consisting of eight or nine ships, he had the good fortune, off the mouth of the Streights, to fall in with the Dutch Smyrna fleet, consisting of forty sail under con- voy of four men of war; and having just before received intelli- gence that war had been declared by England against the States General, he hesitated not a moment to attack them. The Dutch having drawn the stoutest of their merchantmen into the line, to support and assist their men of war, the contest was obstinate; but in the end BraeckeL the Dutch Commodore, being killed, their line broken, and several of their ships sunk, some of the richest were captured, and the remainder took refuge in Cadiz. In the beginning of the year 1665, he shifted his flag from the Plymouth to the Old James ; and on his return to England, in the month of July following, was promoted to the rank of Ad- SEPTEMBER 1678. 252 Sept. (1) I preacht a sermon — I will goe into thy house. And after diner I went with our Captaine to Port miral of the Bliie^, and received the honour of knighthood. In 1666 he was appointed Admiral of the White, having his flag on board the Royal James, in which ship he Avas despatched with a squadron to oppose the French fleet, then reported to be beating up the Channel for the purpose of joining the Dutch. The report proving false. Sir Thomas Allen's division, in conjunc- tion with Prince Rupert's, returned just in time to turn the scale in favour of the English, and rescue the Duke of Albemarle, who had been hard pressed by the superior numbers of the Dutch, during a fight of three days' continuance. After a variety of events, in which he continued to maintain his high reputation, we find him in the month of August 1668 in command of a squadron destined for the Streights; and having arrived off" Algiers, on the 8th of October, he, by his peremptory behaviour^ quickly disposed the Government to propose equitable terms of accommodation ; which were immediately drawn up, and signed by both parties. Having eff'ected this important object. Sir Thomas sailed thence for Naples, where such honours were shewn him by the authorities as proved highly disagreeable to a Dutch squadron lying there, and they left the place in disgust. The same respect was also shewn to him at Leghorn. From thence he returned to Algiers, where having received assurances that the treaty he had concluded would be faithfully observed, he sailed for England in the month of April. No sooner, how- ever, was he clear of the Streights, than the Algerines began to renew their depredations ; so that having hoisted his flag on board the Resolution, he was a second time despatched to Algiers to compel the observance of the peace. On the 6th of August, 1669, he again appeared off" Algiers, and immediately commenced the infliction of chastisement upon the pirates by destroying a con- siderable number of their corsairs, but was withheld by his in- structions from undertaking any decisive measures against their territories. In the following year he was recalled, at his own earnest request, and succeeded in his command by Sir Edward Spragge. Upon his arrival in England he was appointed Comp- troller of the Navy, and for a time retired from the exercise of his professional duties as a seaman; but in March, 1678, he was again appointed Commander-in-chief of his Majesty's fleet in SEPTEMBER 1678. 253 Cesar, an old ruinous place, built by Julius Cesar,^^ and was his dwelling-house. The wall is very high, and built great part of it of flint. Tis 4 square, and contayns 7 akers of ground, in on part ; and neare the wall stands an old castle, with dry moate about it. In the east end is a large church, but very ruinous, and great part of it uncovered. (8) Tliis day I preacht a sermon at Cesar's church ; there being the Major of Portsmouth and severall other gentlemen present. Text, Psall. Ixvi. 13. Wee dyned at the inn there, and were very merry. Mr. Peyton carryd my token to Portchmouth this day, to send it to London ; and he lay at the hulks all night. 1 This day at 1 1 wee are under sayle to get out of the harbour, (for our men fall sick apace). Wee sayle the Narrow Seas, and once more hoisted his flag on board the Royal James. This appointment was occasioned by the proba- bility of a war with France; but that soon passing away. Sir Thomas once more retired from public life, and does not appear to have again resumed a command. The time or place of his death is not positively known. ''' The Chaplain is presumed in this passage to allude to Por- chester Castle, which, from its adaptation as a receptacle for French prisoners of war during the late contest, is too well known to require at the present time any particular description. The following account, extracted from a local publication of the last century, may not be uninteresting, as affording a comparison with the account of Teonge : — " According to some authors a castle was erected here about the time of the foundation of Rome, by Paris, the second son of Sisil, the founder of Silchester ; much of the present building is Norman. Henry I. first paid attention to it, and founded within it a priory of canons of the order of Saint Augustine. The buildings of the Castle are even now tolerably entire, and embrace an extent of four acres Avithin the walls. The keep is a parallelogram of 115 feet by 65, and three of the great towers are standing." SEPTEMBER 1678. 254 as far as the Round Tower : the wind fayles ; wee com back to our mooreing : a fine short voyage ; and by the way wee made a shift to dround a ballast boate which ran against us, but saved the boy that was in the boate. 13 This morning wee sayle out ; salute the towne with 9 gunns, whoe thank us with 7 ; and at on, wee anchor at Spitt Head. Wee take in all things fitt for our voyage. (15) I preacht a sermon on the word, Our. 16 A seaman had 29 lashes with a cat of 9 tayles, and was then washt with salt water, for stealing our carpenter's mate's wives ring. 1 7 This day was two yeares God did myraculously save all our lives in the Assistance ; '"^ which I hope I ^•^ Our author alludes to the storm of the 16th and 17th Sep- tember^ 1676, mentioned in pp. 209 and 210 of the Diary. The following passage, from an unpublished MS. Journal of Richard Allyn^ Chaplain of the Centurion in 1691;, describes an event somewhat similar, and the conclusion is ludicrously characteristic of the manners of our seamen at that period, if not at the present. This manuscript is in the possession of one of the most distin- guished literary characters of the present day, and we are in- debted to a gentleman of great taste and antiquarian knowledge for this curious extract. " 21st April, 1692. — At 8 at night wee weighed and stood off S. S. E. untill 12 ; about which time it began to blow a meer fret of wind at W. S. W. and wee lay by under a main-sail reev'd, expecting y* even y*^ would have been bloAvn away from y^ yard. But tho' y^ wind was so boisterous, yet y^ running about of shot, chests, and loos things about y^ ship, made almost as great a noise as that. We had about 16 or 17 buts and pipes of wine in y^ steer- age, all which gave way together, and y^ heads of one of y*" broke out. Wee shipped several great seas over o*" quarter as well as wast. Sometimes for nigh y"' space of a minute the ship would SEPTEMBER 1678. 255 shall never forget to give him thanks for. Much wind and raine. 21 Much raine, and so violent winds these 3 days, that wee are fain to loare our masts and yards. (22) No sermon, by reason of the ship's buisnes. 24 25 26 Tempestuous weather. seem to bee all under water^ and again sometimes would seem fairly to settle on one side. The chests, &c. SAvim'd between decks, and wee had several foot of water in y^ hold. In short, y^ weather was so bad, y^ y^ whole ships company declared y* they thought they had never seen y^ like, and y* it was impossible for it to bee wors. Notwithstanding all our ports were neither caulk'd nor lin'd, want of doing w*^^ was supposed to have occa- sioned y** loss of y^ Coronation. During y^ dreadful season I quietly kept my bed, tho' very wet by reason of y^ water y* came into my scuttle. The behaviour of o"" Puggs at y' time was not a little remarkable ; some few of y"" would pray, but more of y"" curs'd and swore lowder than y® wind and weather. I can't forbear Avriting one instance of y^ natur, and that is in y® story w*^^ was told me y^ next morning of George y*^ caulker, and old Robin Anderson. Poor George being very apprehensive of his being a sinner, and now in great danger of his life, fell down upon his marrow-bones, and began to pray — ^ Lord have mercy upon me ! Christ have,' &c. and so on to y^ Lord's Prayer. All y^ while old Robin was near him, and between every sentence, cry'd out — ' Ah, you cow ! Z ds ! thou hast not got y^ hart of a flea !' Poor George, thus disturbed at his devotion, would look over his shoulder, and at y^ end of every petition would make answer to old Robin with a ' God d — n you, you old dog ! can't you let a body pray at quiet for you, ha? A plague rot you! let mee alone, can't yee ?' Thus y^ one kept praying and cursing, and t'other railing, for half an hour, when a great log of wood by y* rowl- ing of y^ ship tumbled upon George's legs, and bruised him a little; w*=^ George taking up into his hands, and thinking it had been thrown at him by old Robin, let fly at y^ old fellow, to- gether with an whole broad-side of oaths and curses, and so they fell to boxing. — I mention this only to see the incorrigible senslesncs of such tarpawlin 'wretches in y* greatest extremity of danger." SEPTEMBER 1678. 256 A SONNET. The Tune — No scornfull lover e'er shall hoast. Composed at the Spitt Head, Sept. 26, 1678. When, Phillis, first I saw your face, I lov'd at liberty; But 'ere you parted from that place, I felt captivity. 'Twas in the twinkling of an eye Blind Cupid playd his part ; His golden arrow he let flye^ And peirc't me to the harte. Yet, Phillis, I must tell you too. You ne'er shall boast in vaine. That you have kil'd a lover true. And felt yourselfe no paine. To Venus I my selfe will goe. And wooe her Dyetee, To send blind Cupid with his bowe And shoote the same at thee. Then, Phillis, let your fancy move In the same spheare with myne ; 111 give myn harte to thee (my love,) And thou shalt give mee thyne. No turtle doves were e'er so true. Or halfe so constant bee : My Phillis, I '11 love non but you. And you'l love non but mee. Though, Phillis, you have charms in store To conquor whom you please. Our voyage yeelds fayre ladys more. Which may be woon with ease: But since I find your harte abyds Wholly resign'd to mee. Neglecting all the world besyds, I'll fancy non but thee. H T. SEPTEMBER 1678. 257 27 This day wee have beere brought on board, and other things. 28 The merchants that lay in the Downes all this while for a wind, and bound for the Straits with us, are com in to this Rode this morning. The Lord Mordant is com to Portchmouth. (29) A blustering, rainy day: at 7 at night the Lord Mordant and 4 servants cam on board to goe the voyage with us. No prayers, by reason of the ship's buisnes, 30 A dull darke day. We expect orders to sayle every howre. Oct. 1 A very fayre day ; but the wind still foule. 2 This morning dyed Captaine P.ulleare,^^ Captaine of the Ann and Christopher, a fyre ship, and bound with us into the Straits. He was buryed at Ports- mouth in the afternoone, and severall peales of can- non rang him to the shoare. 5 High winds and raine these 3 days. And this day cam in a French vessell, which had lost her maine mast and mizon. (6) Prayers, no sermon ; our Captaine being on shoare. Much wind ; and the most tempestuous night for *' He was appointed lieutenant of the Bull in 1665^ one of the ships unfortunately taken by the Dutch in the following year, during the long and desperate engagement with the Duke of Al- bemarle. In 1672 he was promoted to the command of the Little Francis, a fire-ship, from which, in the next year, he was removed to the Benjamin, a vessel of the same description. On the 4th of February, 1677-8, he was appointed to the Ann and Christo- pher, in the command of which, as Teonge informs us, he died. S OCTOBER 1678. 258 raine, thunder, lightning and wind, as ever I saw, to my best remembrance. 10 Violent winds and raine till this day. Now wee hope all the foule weather is blowne over. Fayre weather, but a foule wind, all these 3 ensueing days. (13) This day is so fayre, that I preacht a sermon on our quarter deck. Wee have still ill luck: I am afraid of an unfortunate voyage ; for this day our Pursor, Mr. Gelly, is dead at Portsmouth, and our Leiutenant is very neare it. And the wind is as crosse as it hath beene all this while. 14 The wind fayre this morning, but soone turn'd. But the weather very fayre for 3 days. 17 The wind is now fayre. Wee wey anchor; are under sayle by 4; and salute the Admirall with 7 gunns. Addue to Portsmouth ; and before 7 wee are at anchor at Snt. Ellen's Poynt. 18 Blustering weather still, but drye, and very cold, At halfe an howre after 11 wee are under saile againe, with 1 8 merchants, 2 fyre ships, and 2 frigotts, besyd our owne. Wee Admyrall. 19 A fayre wind and weather, and wee sayle merily for PHmmouth; and are this morning over against Dartmouth; and now I can count at least 30 in our convoy. (20) Wee are calmed at the Ramm Head : at 3 cam a small breese, and wee anchored in the Roade, or rather in Plymmouth Soundings, at 6. Saluted the cyttidell with 7 gunns: they gave as many; wee returne 3. No time for prayers to day. OCTOBER 1678. 259 21 I went on shoare to see the cyttidell, which is a place of much strength, and tis pitty it is not finished. I lay all night on shoare; and 22 Cam back this night with the Captain e, 24 This day at 2 wee are under sayle, and stand off only to draw forth our fleet e, which tis sayd will con- sist of 100 ships. In the evening wee put to sea; so that I may count this day to be the begining of our voyage, God send it a prosperous on ! but I much feare it, all things hithertoo haveing beene so crosse. 25 At 10 wee are, with as fayre a gale as can be desyred, past the Lyzard Poynt ; and boath our Master and my selfe counted 105 ships in sight. A brave fleete ! At 1 1 a small vessell, homeward bound, fell in amonge us ; and ran on board the Ann and Christopher, our fyre-ship, and broake her owne bolt- splitt, and toare her owne fore top sayle. At 2 I went on the poope, where I could scarce see the English coaste, and sighing, bad addue to England, and to all my friends there; yet hopeing to see them againe about a 12 months hence. A SONG, r Amyntas, forc't to sea, complaines for his abseJit Chris. The Tune — Fame of thy beauty and thy, &c. England, adue ! I now no more Can vew thy borders from the maine ; But gazeing back towards thy shoare, Do sighing ^vish mee there againe. s 2 OCTOBER 1678. 260 Since Cupid with his golden dart Hath wrought in us this sympathee. And joynd us boath in on true harte^, Why should wee now divorced bee ? Which of the Gods did he displease ? Or whoe would think them so unkinde. To send Amyntas crosse the seas^ And Cloris force to stay behind ? Or what malignant planetts raignd. Thus to torment a sheapardesse ; And my poore Cloris hath constrain'd At once to part from all her blisse ? Would Jove permitt, and Neptune please With ^ol's ayd her course to steare. That shee might safly crosse the seas^ Then^ I could wish my Cloris heare. But since our wishes are in vaine, O Gods, that wee may you addore. Bring mee but safly back againe To Cloris, and I '11 aske no more. Composed at Sea, Octob. 25, 1678. — H. T. 26 Gallant fay re weather, and wee are now almost entringe on the Bay of Bischay. God send us well over it ! Wee end the weeke merrily, in drinking our friends' healths in a bole of punch. (27) A very fayre day : wee have prayers, but no ser- mon, this day. 28 Now I begin to make cartridges for the Captain's gunns. 29 This day wee begin to baracado our quarter deck with an old cable, to keepe off small shott ; and a good shift too. OCTOBER 1678. 261 30 A summar's day. Now I make cartridges for my owne staff guim, and som for musketts also. 31 A stronge gale to day. A small pink ran on board the C'astle fyre ship, and broake off her owne fore top mast, and did som prejudice to her owne bolt-splitt also. The weakest goes allways to the wall. Much raine this evening, and very tem- pestuous. Wee had not such a tumbling time since wee cam to sea. Nov. 1 More mild. At 12 the morning fogg broake up. At night wee begin Chrismas, drinking health to our friends in a boule of punch. 2 This evening I began to be very feaverish, and tooke a sweate. (3) The Lord Mordant, taking occasion by my not being very well, would have preacht, andaskt the Cap- tain's leave last night, and to that intent sate up till 4 in the morning to compose his speech, and intended to have Mr. Norwood to sing the Psalme. AU this I myselfe heard in agitation ; and resolving to prevent him, I got up in the morning before I should have done, had I had respect to my owne health, and cam into the gTcate cabin, where I found the zealous Lord with our Captaine, whom I did so handle in a smart and short discourse, that he went out of the cabin in greate wrath. In the afternoone he set on of the carpentars crewe to woorke about his cabin ; and I being acquainted with it, did by my Captaine's order discharge the woorke man, and he left woork- ing; at which the Reverent Lord was so vexed, that he borrowed a hammar, and busyed himselfe all that NOVEMBER 1678. 262 day in nayling up his hangings f^ but being done on the sabbaoth day, and also when there was no ne- cessity, I hope the woorke will not be longe lived. From that day he loved neyther mee nor the Cap- taine. No prayers, for discontent. ** This eccentric character, who at the period in question must have been in his twentieth year, was the eldest son of John, Lord Avanloe, and was brought up to the naval service, under the Admirals Torrington and Narborough, in the Mediterra- nean. In 1680 he signalized his courage at Tangier against the Moors. Being among the first who engaged in the designs of the Prince of Orange, he was, upon the accession of that indivi- dual to the throne of England, rewarded by a seat in the Privy Council, and the place of one of the Lords of the Bedchamber. In 1689 he was appointed first Lord of the Treasury and raised to the dignity of Earl of Monmouth, the title of his maternal grandfather, and in 1 697 be succeeded to the Earldom of Peter- borough on the death of his uncle. In 1705 he was appointed Commander of the forces sent to SjDain in support of the Archduke Charles, a competitor for the crown of that kingdom. In this command he continued for some time, and performed con- siderable service to the cause by his successes, most of which were gained with an inconsiderable army in point of numbers, by extraordinary rapidity in his motions, and by a daring spirit of enterprize. He possessed a ready invention for stratagems ; some of which went to the utmost limit of what is deemed allowable in war. Born with an exalted imagination, a romantic cast of mind, and a restless activity, he stood distinguished from ordi- nary mortals in every thing he did. Such was his excess of mo- bility, that the ministers used to say, they were obliged to write at him, and not to him. Burnet describes him as ^' a man of much heat, many notions, and full of discourse ; he was brave and generous, but had not true judgment ; his thoughts were crude and indigested, and his secrets were soon known." It was his own observation, that he had seen more kings and posti- lions than any other man in Europe. He was twice married : first to the daughter of Sir Alexander Frazer, by whom he had two sons and a daughter ; and secondly to Mrs. Anastatia Robin- son, the celebrated singer. He died at Lisbon in 1735, in the seventy-seventh year of his age. NOVEMBER 1678. 263 4 Much raine, and a very tempestuous night, and a foule wind ; so that wee are likely to have a longe passage to Cales. 5 The sam bad wind and weather. At 10 I buryed in the sea Will. Potten, on of the carpenter s crue, who sickned at Portchmouth. 8 Tempestuous weather, and the wind crosse. About 2 this morning a sea struck our ship on the starboard quarter, as if it would have broake the ship ; cam quite over all, and pickled the men. 9 This day wee met with a small vessell adrift. She was a Portegees, and laden with come, but not any on in her. The merchants that cam first to her tooke her sayls and yards^ and what else they pleased, and let her goe againe. (10^ I preacht a sermon on the quarter deck, of Faith, Hope, and Charity, from these woords — Our Father, which art in Heaven. 12 Another fayre is kept on the quarter deck for our seamen. 13 Fayre weather, but a crosse wind. This day dined with us the twoe fyre-ships' Captaines, and Capt. Petts^^ of the Store ship. Wee had an achbone •' The ancestors and relatives of this gentleman were succes- sively employed as builders of the Royal Navy for upwards of a century ; and it appears Captain Pett was at an early age in- troduced to the naval service of his country. From the mention made of him by Teonge, who describes him as ^^ of the Store- ship," it is probable that he did not at the period hold a commis- sion as Captain in the Royal Navy; and indeed there is no notice of him as holding that rank, in any of the lists of Commanders, that we have seen, until the year 1693. The following honour- NOVEMBER 1678. 264 of good beife and cabidge ; a hinder quarter of mut- ton and turnips ; a hogg's head and haslett roasted ; 3 tarts, 3 plates of apples, 2 sorts of excellent cheese : this is our short commons at sea. But wee had like to have had a bad supper ; for a little before 7 the Master left his candle burning in his cabin, which fjred a bunch of rosemary, and had like to have fyred the ship : and this also I take to be an ill omen of a bad, troublesom voyage. 14 Wee discover a fleete of at least 40 sayle stand- ing as wee doe, but know not yet what they are. 15 The fleete proves to be our Newfound Land fleete : the WoolHdge their convoy ; whoe gave us 3 cheares and 5 gunns. Wee give the sam ; and Capt. Diker- son^* cam on board us to see our Captaine. able mention is made of him in a letter from Dublin^ dated June the 4th, 1694 : — " On Saturday last arrived here the Soestdyke yatch. Captain Phineas Pett, Commander, from Chester, who brought over the Lord Chancellor Porter, the Lord Chief Justice Reynell, and several officers belonging to the new regiments now raising here. The day before she arrived, a ship under Ostend colours, carrying 14 guns and 6 peteraroes, came up with her, but soon after hoisted French colours, and bearing down, as if to board the yatch, poured into her a volley of great and small shot. Captain Pett, who had put every thing in readiness to receive the enemy, remained quiet until they had fired, and then plyed them so hotly vvdth 5 guns he had brought to bear upon them, and with all the small shot he could make, both of seamen and passengers, that the privateer tacked and stood away right before the wind, after several of her. men had been seen to drop. Cap- tain Pett in this spirited encounter lost but 3 men." ^* Captain Richard Dickenson was made second lieutenant of the Swiftsure in 1665. On the 13th of June, 1667:, he was pro- moted to the command of the Joseph fire-ship. In the following year he returned to his former rank, and was appointed to the NOVEMBER 1678. 265 16 A warme day, but still a crosse wind. (17) I preacht a sermon on the first petition ; Hallowed be thy name. 18 At 10 this morning wee see land; viz. Mount Chega, neare Snt. Mary's Port. Tis a longe passage 1 9 to Cales. A bad wind still. 20 This morning wee mett 9 Hollanders. Their Ad- miral! saluted us with 9 gunns ; the Vice with 7 ; the Reare with 5. Wee answered so. 2 1 This day I buryed in the sea Henry Spencer of Lankishyre, whoe gives all his pay, and what else he had, to his landlady at Portsmouth. 22 Never longe that coms at last : wee cam to an anchor in Cales Roade at 8 ; where wee find the Pearle, and the Ruby, Enghsh frigotts. Severall salutes pass ; and 23 I was kindly entertaind on shoare at Sir James Cuningham's house, an Enghsh gentleman. Rupert. In 1671 he was made first lieutenant of the Dread- nought, and in 1672 was once more appointed a second lieutenant on board the Royal Katherine, and soon afterwards promoted to be second Captain of the Royal Charles. In September, 1674, he was made Commander of the Hunter; on the 12th of April, 1678, of the Woolwich; and on the 17th of the same month, in the year 1680, of the Diamond. He sailed for the Mediterranean soon afterwards, and in the year 1682, being still on that station, was removed into the Tyger Prize, a ship of 40 guns, taken from the Algerines by the Rupert. Returning from the Streights, he was on the 23d of March, 1684-5, made Commander of the Oxford. He commanded a ship, or ships of the Hne, after the Revolution, but we cannot ascertain their names, and from the period of his removrJ to the Oxford his career is involved in un- certainty. NOVEMBER 1678. 266 (24) No sermon to day; our Captaine dined on shoare. The Rupert, the Vice-Admirall to our fleete in the Straits, cam in hither this afternoone : wee gave her 9 gunns ; shee returned 7. And 26 The WooUige cam in to day, whoe had lost 3 of her convoy to the Argeareenes since wee left her and her fleete. At 4 wee are under sayle, and no sooner are wee so, but wee ran on board of a ship that lay by us, and broake off her bolt spHtt yard, and our top yard; and wee cam to an anchor again e on the outside of all the ships. The Captaine disliking som passages, had confined our Master to his cabin, as soone as wee cam to Cales. The Lord Mordant was instrumen- tall, and he hath left us, and is gon into the Rupert; and his Sunday's worke is com to nothinge. 27 By 1 1 wee are under sayle for Tangeare ; wee have with us the Ann and Christopher fyre-ship, the Store ship, and 12 merchants. 28 By 6 wee com to an anchor in Tangeare Roade. Wee find the Charles gaily, whoe had lately fought with the Argeareenes, and made an honorable re- treate, or else she had been taken. 29 Mr. Peyton and I went a shoare, and were weU wetted ; the weather was so bad, that wee could not get on board againe. Here wee saw 5 Argeareenes goe by us into the Straits mouth ; and wee expect to fight them every howre. 30 A little French vesseU was over sett in the har- bour ; and a boate and 5 men driven on the shoare to the Moores. AU bad fortune still. DECEMBER 1678. 267 Dec. 1 This night wee got on board againe, but soundly wetted. 3 By 8 wee are under sayle. God send us good luck ! but by all that hath happened as yet, I feare a trou- blesom voyage. At 10 wee salute the towne with 9 gunns; they give us 11, which maks us woonder; wee give 5, they as many ; and wee give 5 more. Wee are 1 2 in all, have a fay re gale, and are at Giblitore by 3. 4 The wind holds fayre, and by breake of day against Maligo, and calmed all the day after. Here wee see the Granado mountains, whose tops (with age or snow) are as white as milke. 5 About two of the clock wee discover two sayles stand towards the shoare to crosse us. Wee make all things ready to fight. They put abroad the Eng- lish colours, but wee knew them to be Argeareenes. After they had vewed us awhile, they stood off to sea. Wee supposing they might fall upon us in the night, caused our Store ship to carry the light, and all the merchants to follow her closse, and our ship and the fyre-ship followed a good distance a starne, supposing that they would have fallen furiously eyther on us or the fyre ship ; which if they had done, they might (like the Scotchman) have taken a tartar : but they would not be so trepand, but left us. 6 The wind is cleare against us, and wee strive in vaine. At last wee are forct to com to an anchor in Almajya Bay, just before the towne. 7 The Spaniards wiU not suffer us to com on shoare, but they let us fetch water, and will sell us what conveniencys wee want. DECEMBER 1678. 268 (8) Prayers, no sermon ; our Captaine not being on board. After dinner I went with our Captaine to the towne syde, but they would not give us leave to com a shoare. But they brought to us good wine, lemons, oringes, pom-cytrons, sheepe, henns, eggs, cole worts, &c. and sould them cheape enough. Tis a small towne, compassed with a pittifuU walle, which runns up to a castle that stands on the side of the hill, an old Maurisco building, and seems very stronge by its cituation. I saw no gunns ; but the report was, there were 4. The bay is very large and also deepe, full of fish and foule, and very com- modious for anchorage. Here wee Had also excel- lent oyle and salletts. 9 Under sayle by 7, and by 1 1 wee passe by Cape Degat, with a fayre gale. 10 In the afternoone wee passe by Carthageena and Cape Snt. Paule. 1 1 And by on a clock at anchor in Aligant Roade ; where wee find severall merchants, whoe salute us, but not on man of warr. 12 I went on shoare to see the place, and went almost to the castle ; but the steepnes of the hill forced mee to retreate. 14 At 10 wee are under sayle ; only wee lye by till our Captaine came. This day wee begin to have to our 2d course at dinner, reasings, figgs, almonds, &c. (15) No prayers to day for sayling. By 10 wee com closse to the Hand called Firmateare, and in the afternoone by Iversy. 1 6 Wee sayle by the Capareroes and Majorca, and are DECEMBER 1678. 2G9 chased by 2 Argeareenes ; but they soone left us, and stood to sea. 17 At on this morninge roase a frett of wind, which, in despite of all meanes that wee could use, drowned our longe-hoate, which was at the starne of our ship ; and w^hilst wee w ere busy in thinking to save the boate, wee lost sight of the 4 ships that were our companions ; but at night wee cam together againe with joy. 2 1 Lamentable colde weather; and a crosse wind hath, these 4 days, driven us wee can scarce tell whither. But this morning wee can discover Mynorcha, or Minyorke : the wind scants againe. Wee keepe Snt. Thomas's fayre againe, for cloaths for the seamen. At 8 wee com to an anchor in Port Mahone Roade. (22) All our fleete are in this harbour ; and are joy- full at our arrivall, for they much wanted the ship of stores. And so much company cam on board us, that wee could not possibly have prayers. 23 A rayny day, and very cold ; and wee not yet ad- mitted to com in. 24 A fayre Chrismas Eve. The Prick Master cam on board to muster us. 25 Good Chrismas Day. Wee goe to prayers at 10 ; and the wind roase of such a sudden, that I was forced (by the Captain's command) to conclude abruptly at the end of the Letany; and wee had no sermon. And soone after, by the carelessnes of som, our barge at starne was almost sunk, but recovered. Wee had not so greate a dinner as was intended, for the whole fleete being in this harbour, beife could not DECEMBER 1678. 270 be gott. Yet wee had to dinner, an excellent rice pudding in a greate charger, a speciall peice of Mar- tinmas English beife, and a neat's tounge, and good cabbige, a charger full of excellent fresh fish fryde, a douzen of wood-cocks in a pye, which cost 15^., a couple of good henns roasted, 3 sorts of cheese ; and last of all, a greate charger full of blew figgs, almonds, and raysings ; and wine and punch gallore, and a douzen of English pippens. The wind was so high all this night, that wee ever expected when it would have broake our cable or anchor. But the greatest losse wee yet sustayned -was this: about i I or 12 a clock our honest Leiue- tenant, Mr. Will. New, dyed, and left a mornfull ship's company behind him. Yesterday our Capt. bought 3 Spanish hoggs : the rufFnes of the weather made them so sea sick, that no man could forbeare laughing to see them goe reeling and spewing about the decks. 26 The weather is very ruff and could, and the wind contrary, so that wee can not get into the harbour. This afternoone wee put our leiuetenant into a coffin, but know not when wee shall bury him. 27 Wee send to day to have leave to bury him on the shoare. 28 This day wee carry his corps in the barge to a small iland lying in the harbour, which is given to the English to bury their dead uppon ; and there wee bury him. Severall peales of greate gunns rang his funerall kneU. After the solemnity I went on board our old ship the Assistance, which lay closse DECEMBER 1678. 271 by the iland ; and was courteously entertayned by my old acquaintance Mr. Berry, the pursor there. (29) I preacht a funerall sermon for our Leiuetenant, whom wee buryed yesterday ; text, Gen. xlvii. 9. After dinner our Captaine tooke mee on shoare with him to the village under the castle (for wee ventred hard to bring our ship so farr in, and had almost ran her ashoare), and were boath nobly entertaind by Captaine Don Phillippo, captaine to the castle. 30 And this morning wee warpe in to the fleete ; 31 \Miere wee end the old yeare merily in wine, punch, and bran dee. Jan. 1 I was invited on board the Royal Oake by Mr. 1678-9 EUis, the Chaplen. 2 A fayre day, but very cold. I buryed on the iland WiUiam Biggs. 3 I was invited on board the Assistance, to sup, by Mr. Mosse, Chaplen. - (5) Prayers, no sermon ; our Captaine indisposed. Sir Roger Strickland dined on board us. The Portland went hence for Lygorne. Cold weather. 7 This day kept on shoare the festivall of Snt. An- tonio. A high day. The Assistance barge out rowed the Royal Oak barge this day. 8 I went with our Captaine a walking beyond Port Mahone, to a place full of gardens ; and returning wee found a Spanyard hooking upp oysters, and bought som of him. Very cold weather. 9 The Spanish galloons for their unciviHty are com- manded hence. 10 Our new Leiutenant, Mr. George Mountegue, JANUARY 167B-9. 272 sonn to the Lord Mountegue, cam on board us this day. ■ (12) Rayny and very cold weather. Prayers, no ser- mon for colde. 13 A counsell of warr was held on board the Plym- mouth, our Admirall, concerning som misdemeanurs in our Master, Mr. Henry Sturke, whoe was confined to his cabin ever since wee cam from Cales, and was this day suspended from his place : and the next buisnes was concerning Sir Roger Strickland's re- moval into our ship, the BristoU, in regard his owne ship, the Mary, is disabled to indure the sea. And he being the Rear Admirall, may make choyce of what ship he liks best. And into what ship our Captaine is to goe, is not yet concluded. 14 Tis resolved that our Captaine removes into the Roy all Oake ; a stately ship, and of great force. Rainy and very cold weather. 16 This morning the 3 Captains exchange ships: Captain Killigrue'" out of the Royall Oake into the ** This officer held so prominent a station in the naval trans- actions of the period^ that our mention of him must necessarily occupy a larger space than we have usually allotted to our biographical notices throughout the Volume. Captain Henry Killegrew was the grandson of Sir Robert Killegrew of Han- worth in the county of Middlesex ; and having early entered into the naval service, was in the year 1666 made lieutenant of the Cambridge. From this ship, in the following year, he was re- moved to the same station on board the Sapphire, and in 1668 to the Constant Warwick. On the 9th of January, 1672-3, he was appointed Commander of the Forrester, and in the course of the following summer was removed, first into the Bonaventure, and afterwards into the Monk. On the 9th of March, 1674, he was made Captain of the Swan prize ; on the 22d of April, ] 675^ JANUARY 167S-9. - 273 Mary, to goe home ; Sir Roger Strickland into the Bristoll ; and our Captaine Langston into the Royall of the Harwich ; and soon afterwards, upon the death of Captain Worden, he was promoted to the Henrietta. On the 7th of the following January he was made Captain of the Bristol, and shortly afterwards, while in the Mediterranean, removed into the Royal Oak ; from which ship he exchanged to the Mary, then ordered home, as related by our Author, and returned in her, having been absent on the Mediterranean station for several years. On the 3d of January following his arrival at Plymouth, he was removed into the Leopard, and again, on the 27th of the same month, into the Foresight In this vessel he appears to have re- mained stationary until May, 1683, when he was made Captain of the Montague ; and on the 20th of the same month, in the fol- lowing year, he was appointed Commander of the Mordaunt. His next ship was the Dragon, to which he removed on the 11th July, 1686, and was soon afterwards despatched with a small squadron to the Mediterranean, to which station he had been as it were habituated, in search of the Marquis de Fleury, whose piratical depredations had considerably interrupted our commerce. This personage, among other enormities, had captured a ship called the Jerusalem, which had on board a Bashaw on his way to Tripoli, and carried his prize into Malta, where he agreed wath the Bashaw for his ransom, and departed, leaving behind him the females of the Bashaw's seraglio, and other passengers, to the number of sixty-two, whose rate of ransom was not settled. Soon after the Marquis had sailed. Captain Killigrew arrived in quest of him, and, by his spirited interference with the Grand Master, procured their release. Not content with ren- dering them this service, he took them, and their effects, on board some of the ships of his squadron, and put them all safe on shore at Tripoli, whither they were originally bound. Having by this generous conduct excited a feeling highly advantageous to his country and the national character, he immediately sailed from Tripoli in quest of the Marquis; and receiving intelligence that he had put into Villa Franca, he directed his course thither, but found on his arrival that the Marquis had fled, having first completely dismantled his ship. The neighbouring coasts being consequently freed from any apprehension of future depredations. JANUARY 1678-9. 274 Oake, a ship like him selfe. Now the flagg at the mizon top is hoysted on the BristoU, at which time Captain Killigrew returned to his post off Sallee; and on the 8th of December^ 1687:, being in chase of a Sallee frigate^, was severely wounded by the bursting of a gun, from which accident he how- ever speedily recovered. He remained on the Mediterranean station until the 3d of May, 1689, about six months after the Revolution had taken place at home; and almost immediately upon his return, his prudent and gallant conduct, added to the experience he had acquired by a long and active service, being universally acknowledged, he was promoted to the rank of Vice- Admiral of the Blue, and was soon afterwards detached in the Kent, to which he had shifted his flag, and a small squadron, consisting chiefly of armed ships hired from the merchants, to blockade the harbour of Dunkirk, in which it was reported a considerable number of French ships were collected : this infor- mation, however, proved incorrect, and he continued for some time to cruise up and down the Channel, without meeting with any occurrence worth relating. On the 23d of December fol- lowing. Admiral Killigrew was appointed Commander-in-chief of a squadron sent to the Mediterranean to oppose the Toulon fleet : the force under his orders consisted of twelve line of battle ships, a frigate, and two fire-ships, and he was joined also by a squadron belonging to the States General, under the com- mand of Admiral AUemande. Misfortune and disappointment seem to have attended this armament from the moment of its equipment : — meeting with contrary winds, and encountering re- peated storms, it was in the first place upwards of a month on its passage to Cadiz: upon the voyage, many of the English ships received considerable damage, and two Dutch men of war foundered. On the 9th of May, most of the ships being re- equipped as well as circumstances would permit, the Admiral received information that the Toulon fleet, consisting of 10 sail of the line, commanded by Chateau-Renaud, was at sea. He ac- cordingly sailed on the morning of the 10th, with seven English and two Dutch ships, being all that were in a condition for ser- vice, having previously despatched orders to Gibraltar for Captain Shelton, who lay there with a small squadron, to join him : on the day following the junction with Shelton's division, the Ad- JANUAiiY 1678-9. 275 the Mary, Royall Oake, and Bristoll, fyre 21 gmms apeice ; and every Captaine departed from his old miral got sight of the French squadron, then off Ceiita Point, and Renaud, imagining his opponent's force to be weaker than it really was, suffered the headmost ships to approach within two miles of his van, when discovering his mistake, he instantly set his top-gallant sails, and cro^^'ded away with all the sail he could carry. The English immediately pursued, but were unable to come up with them, though they continued the chase until 10 o'clock the next day, when the rear of the enemy's squa- dron, being four leagues a-head of the English van, whose rear were hull down, the Admiral desisted from the hopeless pursuit, and brought-to for the scattered ships to join him, and in the evening bore away for Cadiz, whence, after detaching seve- ral of his ships upon dilFerent services, he prepared to return to England with the remainder of the squadron. The same ill fortune that attended him from the commencement of this ex- pedition continued to the last, being not less than thirty-five days on his passage to Plymouth, and upon his arrival there he found the French fleet in possession of the Channel, so that it was impossible for him to proceed farther. Notwithstanding the ill success of this expedition, the conduct of Admiral Killi- grew was so little open to censure, that it was found impossible to ascribe any cause for its failure to his behaviour or manage- ment, and he was immediately afterwards appointed one of the joint Admirals, with Sir R. Haddock and Sir J. Ashby, to com- mand the fleet in the absence of the Earl of Torrington ; and on the 29th of August following, he joined his coadjutors with the squadron under his command. The force of the joint Admirals, when united, consisted of 43 ships, exclusive of a Dutch fleet ; and as soon as they were victualled, and had taken on board the Earl of Marlborough and 5000 land forces, they sailed for Ireland, having previously sent their first and second rates to Chatham. The Admirals were then necessitated to remove their flag into the Kent, a third-rate. The fleet arrived at Cork on the 21st of September, and after a short contest with a battery erected by the Irish at the entrance of the harbour, from which, how- ever, they were soon driven, the Earl of Marlborough and his troops were landed in perfect safety. The siege of Cork was T 2 JANUARY 1678-9. 276 ship, and was also received into his new ship, with 3 cheares, and drumms beating, and trumpetts sound- terminated by its surrender on the 29th of the same months and the season being too far advanced to fear any attempt at annoy- ance from the enemy's fleet, or to trust any longer, with prudence, so many ships on so dangerous a station, the joint Admirals were ordered to return, leaving behind them a small squadron, under the command of the Duke of Grafton, to assist the future opera- tions of the army. The fleet accordingly arrived in the Downs on the 8th of October, the service having been performed in as little time, the season considered, as the voyage alone usually oc- cupies. Upon the return of the fleet into port for the winter, the Commissioners resigned their command; and, on the 23d of December following, Admiral Killigrew was promoted to the rank of Admiral of the Blue, and served in . that station in the grand fleet during the following year. During the year 1692 Kil- ligrew does not appear to have held any command, but in 1693 he was again called to act as joint Commander of the fleet, in conjunction with Sir Cloudesley Shovel and Sir Ralph Dela- Tal ; on the 15th of April he was also appointed one of the Com- missioners for executing the office of Lord High Admiral, and we now approach the termination of his professional career. In the month of May following, the Smyrna fleet, consisting of 400 sail of merchant ships, under the convoy of Sir George Rooke with a strong squadron, sailed from the Downs : in addition to the regular convoy, the grand fleet under the command of the joint Admirals saw the convoy fifty leagues to the south-west of Ushant, and, having no longer any apprehension of danger, re- turned. The French, however, wishing to strike a signal blow to our commerce, that might in some measure palliate their dis- grace at La Hogue, had pitched on Lagos Bay as the rendez- vous of their squadrons from Brest and the Mediterranean : here they lay as it were in ambuscade, and at the proper moment sallied upon their unsuspecting prey. Had the scheme been exe- cuted with the same dexterity with which it was planned, the consequences would have been fatal to the whole fleet ; as it was, more than three parts of it were preserved. This unfortunate event was charged principally to the mismanagement of the joint Admirals; but, upon a strict inquiry into their conduct by JANUARY 1G78-9. 277 ing, God send us all good luck ! but still it puts us all to much trouble. 17 The Assistance is gon to convoy merchants to Scanderoond. Colde. And this day my orders for the Royall Oake were signed. 1 9 Prayers ; no sermon. This being the first Sunday that our Captaine was on board the Royall Oake, our boatswaine made tlie ship woondrous fine, with a pendent at every yard arme, in all 25 pendents. Many Spanyards cam on board to see our ship. I was their usher, and had many thanks. 20 About 5 I was invited, with the rest of the Chap- lens, to the funerall of Mr. Toogood, our victuellor, whoe dyed at Mahone. Wee went all to the house where he dyed, and brought out the corps in a coflSn, and thus were placed, (the whole towne gazing at our formality). 8 trumpetts went first ; the Chaplens went next by 2 and 2 ; next the corps borne by 6 seamen, the pawle being borne up by 10 Pursors ; then the Captaines ; next the Leiuetenants and Chy- rurgions, 2 and 2. Thus wee carryed him through the towne, and down to the water, where wee were mett by our Admirall, Sir John Norbrough, and our Reare Admirall, Sir Roger Strickland, and all the rest the House of Commons, a motion tending to affix a censure upon them was unanimously negatived. Ill success, and the general reputation of being unfortunate, have always been considered sufficient grounds for the retirement of a commander. The in- quiry consequently produced the dismissal of Admiral Killigrew and Sir Ralph Delaval. Admiral Killigrew was afterwards chosen representative in Parliament for St. Albans, and died at his seat, near that place, on the 9th of November, 1712. JANUARY 1678-9. 278 of the commaunders in the fleete ; and thence wee carryed him in a barge (all the other barges following) to the little iland, our burying place, the gunns from all the ships fyring till wee cam thither ; and haveing finished the ceremony, the trumpetts sounded 3 levetts at the grave, and every on returned to his owne ship soundly wett and colde* 23 These 3 days wee are fitting out our ship, and breaming her ; with which Mr. Peyton was frighted out of his cabin. This night our Leiuetenant Moun- tegue made grande festo for all the Leiutenants in our state-roome, where our Captaine, and two more Captaines, were Leiutenants for that night. 24 This afternoone cam in the Happy Returne from England, Sir Will. Poole ^^ commander, and v/ith ^^ This gentleman was a descendant of an ancient and honour- able family established at Poole in Cheshire. The period of his entering the service is not ascertained^, biit^ soon after the Resto- ration^ we find him appointed by the Duke of York to the com- mand of the Martin. In 1661 he was promoted to the Charity of forty-six guns, and in 1663 he commanded the Advice. After removing to several ships, during the years 1663, 1665, 1666^ and 1669, we find him towards the close of 1672 in the Saint David, acting as Commodore of the expedition sent against To- bago, the land forces being under the command of Sir Tobias Bridges; and it appears that to the personal exertions of Captain Poole the success of the expedition was chiefly to be attributed. The troops being landed, in their first attempt, either through the ignorance or treachery of the guides, in a place extremely unfavourable to future operations, and in momentary danger of being utterly cut off". Captain Poole went himself on shore to su- perintend their re- embarkation, which was thereby effected with- out loss; and on the following day, December 19, 1672, the troops were re^landed, under cover of the Saint David, after she had en- dured a most tremendous fire from all the batteries for more than JANUARY 1678-9. 279 him the noble Duke of Grafton, on of our King's naturall sonns by the Contesse of Castlemaine, a brisk young man, who coms to see fashons. ^^ Nothing but cold raine and sharp winds. five hours. The success attending this action was as complete as the undertaking was brilliant; a capitulation was immediately- proposed, and the island surrendered without farther bloodshed : for this service he was rewarded with the honour of knight- hood by his Sovereign. On the 27th of February, 1676, the King, who, since the passing of the Test Act, and the consequent retirement of the Duke of York, had undertaken to manage the affairs of the Navy himself, commissioned Sir William Poole to the command of the Leopard, in which ship, with a Commodore's pendant, he was sent to Newfoundland ; and from thence at the close of the year sailed, as is customary, with the convoy for the Streights, and returned to England with the Streights fleet under his protection, in the month of May following. On the 11th of September, 1678, he was appointed to the Happy Return, and again sent to the Streights, where he continued for some time, and on the 21st June, 1685, was removed to the Samuel and Mary, which appears to have been the last ship he ever commanded. ®^ A natural son of Charles II., by Barbara Villiers, Countess of Castlemaine, subsequently created Duchess of Cleveland. He was born in 1663, and married on the 1st of August, 1672, to the daughter of Lord Arlington (afterwards Earl of Sunderland), then only five years of age : they were re-married on the 16th Novem- ber, 1679. Upon the former occasion, Evelyn says, " This sweetest, hopefuUest, and most beautiful child, and most vertuous too, was sacrificed to a boy that had been rudely bred, without any thing to encourage them but his Majesty's pleasure ;" and upon the re- marriage, Evelyn, who was present at the ceremony, says, '^ My love to my Lord Arlington's family and the sweet child made me behold all this with regret ; tho', as the Duke of Grafton affects the sea, to which I find his father intends to use him, he may emerge a plain, useful, and robust officer, and were he polished, a tolerable person ; for he is exceeding handsome, by far sur- passing any of the King's other natural issue." The first and JANUARY 1678-9. 280 (26) Prayers ; no sermon. Thanks to God that wee are in a good harbour ! The Spanyards say they never had such a winter. 27 This day an Irish man (whoe had beene master of a ship of 30 tunn, and was taken by the Argeareenes) made his escape from Argeare, and cam to sea him- selfe in a small boate, with a Httle rusks and water ; and in 10 days time arrived heare, so weake that he could not stand at the first coming. Twas a strainge Providence. 28 Ther cam and dined on board us 16 Spanish women, with their husbands and children. They tooke our ship for Noah's Arke, for the uncleane beasts cam in by payrs. After dinner they all danced after their strainge fashon, viz. 2 and 2 together, only at on time. Twas a very joviall day, and the Duke himselfe cam to see their dancing : our Cap- taine was a greate favorite to the Spanyards, and so only son of this marriage was born in November, 1683. Burnet gives the following account of the Duke : — " He had been some - time at sea^ and was a gallant, but rough man. He had more spirit than any other of the King's sons, and made an answer to the King his uncle, about this time, that was much talked of. — The King took notice of somewhat in his behaviour tha|^ looked factious, and said he was sure he could not pretend to act upon principles of conscience ; for he had been so ill-bred, that as he knew little of religion, so he regarded it less : the Duke replied, that though he had little conscience, yet he was of a party that had conscience." The Duke being with the Earl of Marlborough at the siege of Cork, in September 1690, received a wound as he was lead- ing a party of grenadiers to the assault of a breach, and died on the 9th of the following month, in the twenty-eighth year of his age« JANUARY 1678-9. 281 had that greate favour of the women's company, for they went to no ship but ours. 30 A sollemn day, and wee keepe it accordingly with jacks and pendents loared halfe way, and prayers ; and fyring of gunns at night. 31 I went on shoare to Mahone, and was courteously entertained by the Franciscans, at their Convent; and this day our Leiuetenant's toome is finished ; and on the head-stone, very handsomly, this Epitaff was ingraved : Fortis in hoc tumulo Gulielmus New jacet, Anglus, Hectoriasque manus, corque leonis habens. Nobilis hie natu ; fortuna splendidus ; ultro Dispergens libere ; cuique benignus erat : Divinare licet nunc hujus Religionem ; Proh dolor ! huic puppis vix habet ulla parem. Henricus Teonge. Antonius Langston mcestissimus hoc posuit ; December 28, 1678. Feb. (2) Good Candlemas Day. Very cold. Wee are com- manded to fetch water all day, and have not time for prayers. 4 Very cold weather. This is on of the most joviall days in the yeare, on the shoare. AU people are eyther in the open streets, or at their doores. The men fling oringes at the women, and they fling cringes or water at the men ; and tis a greate favor if you are hitt with any of them : this they doe all the day longe, and no exception is to be taken at any thing ; and they are most esteemed that make the most myrth. At night they sing, and dance, and FEBRUARY 1678-9. 282 banquet, till twelve a clock; and then they begin their Lent. This is Shrove Tuesday with them ; and after this day they use no manner of merriment. 7 Raine and snow ; very cold these days. This day I buried 2 out of our ship : John Parr and John Woolger. I think they weie little better then starved to death with cold weather. 8 Collyer and Coolin went to fight, but were loath to hurt on the other, and so cam back, like 2 fooles, well drunken. (9) Prayers; no sermon. I buryed our Captain's cabin boy, Imanuell Dearam. The Captain cam on the iland at the sam instant. 10 Our Admirall cam from the towne, and anchored without Bloody Iland, for his better conveniency of sayling out. 11 1 buryed Samueli Ward, who had layn sick a longe time. 12 4 of our ships are gon to day to cruse before Argeare, viz. the Nonsuch, Phoenix, Sefayre, and ' Oringe Tree, an Argereene prize. 13 A consultacion about goeing to Argeare. 14 Provisions are brought on board our ship all this day ; and our noble Duke of Grafton (intending as is supposed for the sea) begins his warr like exployts ; whoe, with his owne pinnace and on more, is to fight Sir John Earnly's ^^ barge and longe boate, and our ^^ He was made Lieutenant of the Rainbow in 1664, of the Hampshire in 1670^ and of the Rupert in 1671 : the last com- mission was conferred upon him by Sir Edward Spragge^ under whose command he then was in the Mediterranean. In June FEBRUARY 1678-9. 283 barge, in the nature of Argeareenes. They turne for the advantage of the wind, at least an howre : at last the .fight began very furiously ; severall broad syds passe, with musketts, blunder-bushes, and pe- taiTeroes, and squibbs and crackers, hke hand gra- nadoes ; this continus at least an howre. Then at last (as it was ordered before) Sir John Earnly's squadron is worsted; his long-boat driven on shoare, where they forsake their vessells, but maintaine them 1671j lie was appointed Comptroller of the Navy^ as successor to Sir Thomas Allen ; and was shortly after promoted to the com- mand of the Dover^ from which ship he was removed^ before the conclusion of the year, into the Revenge. When, in 1673, Prince Rupert was appointed Admiral and Commander-in-chief of the fleet. Sir John Ernely was promoted to the Henry — a mark of favour he proved himself deserving of, by his conduct on the lltli of August of the same year, being one of the thirteen officers, who, towards the latter end of the engagement with the Dutch on that day, supported his patron in the most distinguished manner, when attacked by De Ruyter with his whole division. On the 21st of July, 1674, he was appointed Commander of the Foresight; on the 2d of April, 1677^ removed into the Woolwich j and on the 14th of September following, he was nominated, pro tempore, one of the Commissioners for executing the office of Lord High Admiral. Notwithstanding he held this elevated office, he continued actively engaged in the naval service, and, on the 28th of October, is noticed as one of the Captains under the command of Sir John Narborough on the Mediterranean ser- vice. Sir John Ernely returned thence the following spring, and arrived at Portsmouth on the 19th of March, with but a few ships under his convoy, the fleet having been* dispersed by a violent gale of wind in the Bay of Biscay. Immediately on his arrival he was removed into the Defiance, and returned to his old station in the Mediterranean, whence he returned again with a convoy in the May following. His subsequent proceedings cannot be traced with any degree of certainty. FEBRUARY 1678-9. 284 a good while by their small shott from behinde the rocks. At last the Duke takes the boats with his artilery and fyre balls, and so the fight ends (very pleasant to behold). And they all goe on board Sir Roger Strickland to dinnar in the Bristoll, whoe, to entertaine the Duke, caused his ship to be adorned with new wast cloaths, and a pendent at every yard arme, which, as soone as the Duke cam on board, were all lett fly at once ; and fy red 1 3 gunns of the lower teare. There they make merry ; but though the fight was only in gest, yet many of them were hurt by accident, and burnt with fyre-balls. (16) Prayers to day; no sermon. At 8 this morning departed Sir John Norbrough in the Plymmouth, Sir John Earnly in the Defyance, Sir William Poole in the Happy Returne, the Ann and Christopher fyre ship, and a sloope ; all for Argeare. Here are left, for to gett in provision, the Royall Oake, the Mary, Bristoll, Homer, the store-ship, the small Argereene, and the Fanfan. 17 18 19 20 Good weather these days. The King's Fisher and James gaUy cam in to day from Lygorne, with severall merchants. 21 They all goe a way betim this morning, to carry an expresse that cam out of England to Lygorne in 16 days time, and is to be delivered to Sir John Norbrough's owne hands. 22 Tis a very high wind, and colde. About 8 in the morne 1 5 barrells of powder blew up, and other in- gredients for fyre works, that belonged to the little Argereene fyre ship. They were in a cave, closse FEBRUARY 1678-9. ' 285 by the Mary : the force of it did much shake the Mary, and all the ships that were any thing neare. (23) Prayers ; no sermon. This morning departed hence Sir Roger Strickland, in the BristoU. Our ship saluted him with 1 1 gunns ; he answered 9 : wee gave 5 more, he the like : wee gave him 3, he on. He tooke with him the Homer fyre ship : boath for Argeare. 26 The 2 last days wee got som bread and porke. This day I buryed John Wilkinson, the carpenter's mate. 28 This afternoone our Captaine, Leiutenant Munke, and myselfe, goe into Should-water Bay, where wee gett rosemary, whetstons, and red shells, called star- kasarks ; and so com on board againe. March 1 Snt. Taffy's Day, and many in our ship doe ware leeks. (2) Snt. Chadd's Day. Wee had prayers; no sermon. I went to see the English Cove.' 3 Wee make all things ready now to sayle : want only provision. 5 Very cold days. I buryed Izaak Maule, a Sweade. 6 And this day I buryed Samuell Massy. 7 Severall Spanyards com on board, to bid us addue (as they call it); and last night som passengers cam to goe with us. 8 By 8 this morning wee are under sayle. Deus nobiscum! A Spanyard coming on board to sell milke (not minding to goe off in the boate, when he might have gon), was forced to goe alonge with us ; whom wee sent back from Firmiteare. The Date MARCH 1678-9 286 Tree went with us, whoe lost her maine top mast as soone as shee was out of the mouth of the harbour ; which in the fall broake also her mizon top mast. At 5 wee see Majorca, and are not out of the sight of our beloved Minorca. (9) Instead of prayers this morning, (being closse under Majorca), wee are quartering our men in their severall stations, in case wee should meete with an enemy. This day I buryed in the sea WiUiam Wat- son, belonging to the carpenter's crue. After 9 at night, a lusty ship coming up with us, gave us a sudden alarme ; every on that could snatcht up a liiuskett. I went up on the top of the poope with my staff gunn, and stood by our Leiu- tenant Munk, who hayled the ship, and commaunded them to com on board us. They refusing, as wee thought, he bad mee fyre at them, which I did : then they immediatly loard their top-sayle ; but they makeing no haste to com on board us, our Captaine commanded to fyre a gunn from our quarter deck . athwart their hawse. Then the master cam on board. Shee was a French vessell, and brought us the good news how that the Safer had forced Treguee, the Dey's sonn of Argeare, to run on shoare, and had burnt his ship : it was don about Oron, and on Tues- day last, March 4th. This was welcom news. The best passage was, that wee had a Fryar with us, whoe, haveing bin drinking wine, was grone a little valiant, and he had got a musket in his hand, and a' coller of bandeleares about him : and to see him stand in his white coate, ball'd pate, his muskett MARCH 1678-9. 287 in his hand, and the 12 Apostles rattling about him, was a sight which caused much laughter. 10 The wind so crosse, that wee are but 5 leages more then wee were the last night. 11 A fresh gale brings us to the sight of Firmiteare, where wee intend to cutt wood. 12 At 2 this morning wee discover 3 or 4 ships in the Bay: they had also discovered us, and sent in on ship to anchor, as a duckcoy to draw us in, thinking to imbay us, and catch us. About 5 this morning, wee (not fearing as many more ships) made dyrectly into the Bay to that ship. Coming neare her^ shee put abroade the English colours : wee then did the same. The 3 other ships, also, that thought to take us in that pinfold, cam also into the Bay. It proved to be Sir Roger Strickland in the Bristoll, the Cen- turion, the Hampshyre, and Captaine Carter ^^ in the Defiance. They all leave us that day, and were bound for Port Mahone, by wliom wee sent back the Spanyard that sould milke ; they tooke the fyre ship ivith them. This morning, about 9, I went with the rest a woodding upon this iland of Firmiteare, Tis, as tis ^ Captain Richard Carter, the gentleman here spoken of by the worthy Chaplain, was appointed first Lieutenant of the Cam- bridge in 1672, and in the following year was promoted to the command of the Success. From this ship he was shortly after- wards farther promoted by Prince Rupert to the Crown, a fourth- rate of forty-two guns. In the month of June, Captain Carter was detached by his Highness, in company with the Nightingale, Captain Harris, to cruize off the coast of Zealand. On their return to the fleet, they fell in with three large Dutch frigates. MARCH 1678-9. 288 sayd, 18 miles longe and 6 in breadth ; and tis sayd no inhabitants live there but Bandectoes, viz. such as are banisht their native countrys for som misde- to the eastward of the Galloper, about three o'clock in the morn- ing of the 8th of June. The Dutch ships, the largest of which mounted forty-four guns, the two others thirty guns each, had the advantage of the weather-gage. About five o'clock the action commenced, and continued with great spirit on both sides for upwards of three hours ; when the Dutch, finding the contest evidently to their disadvantage, hauled in their wind and made for their own coast, which they were fortunate enough to reach in safety, notwithstanding the Crown and her consort pursued them for seven hours with all the sail they could make. On the 12th of April, 1675, he was appointed Captain of the Swan ; from which ship he was, on the 7th of January, 1678, removed into the Centurion, and in the month of March following was sent to the Streights, under the orders of Sir John Ernely, in the Defiance, as convoy to a fleet of merchant ships. Upon this station Ca^Dtain Carter remained a considerable time ; and we find him, in the month of November, 1679, serving on shore under his old friend and commander, Admiral Herbert, in the defence of Tangier, then severely pressed by the Moors, in which service he was slightly wounded. After his return home, he was not again employed until the 3d of August, 1688, when, upon the ' eve of the Revolution, he was appointed Commander of the Ply- mouth ; which ship, notwithstanding his attachment to the in- terest of King James, he continued to command after the Revo- lution had taken place, and was present in her at the engage- ment off Beachey Head. In this affair he led the van of the Red Squadron, and received considerable damage, by which means he in some measure escaped the general censure that followed the termination of that action. In 1692 he was promoted to be Rear Admiral of the Blue, and on the 14th of April was des- patched to cruise off the French coast, with a squadron consisting of eleven line of battle ships, seven frigates, three fire-ships, and some small vessels. The object of the expedition was to des- troy any single ships or small squadrons he might discover under Cape la Hogue, or off Havre; but information having been re- ceived that the French were preparing to put to sea in great MARCH IG78-9. 2«9 meQurs. But anotlier gentleman and my selfe, only with our gunns in our hands, went not so little as miles on the iland too and froe, and not any man- kinde. Wee found places where fyres had been made, and where people had made little hutts under trees to lye in ; wee found places where conys had scratt, and asses or mules muck, and much rooting and muck of hoggs and capereroes. But wee saw not on liveing creture of any of these ; till at the last I saw a caparetto through the bushes, and was levelling my gunn at her ; at the same time the gen- tleman with mee, lookeing earnestly that way that I was poynting my gunn, saw a kid. Boath shott force, orders for his return to the fleet were despatched after him, on the 20th and 23d of the same month. On the 9th of May he met Sir Ralph Delaval, who had been detached with a small squadron in search of him, and they both fortunately joined Admiral Russell on the 13th, six days before the battle of La Hogue j in which he fell, strenuously maintaining and support- ing the character of a brave man, and died while endeavouring to infuse into his people a spirit of gallantry by exhortation, when personal exertion was no longer in his power. It is a me- lancholy reflection, that the character of such a man should have been impugned, on the score of loyalty and patriotism ; yet such was the case, and the very period of his death was fixed upon by his enemies as the aera of his delinquency : thus, he was charged with having, during the whole period of his command, furnished the exiled King with information relative to every motion of the fleet ; and that he had actually received from him a bribe of 10,000/., which was to be the purchase of his desertion in the hour of action. The behaviour of Captain Carter affords, how- ever, a triumphant proof of his integrity and honour, and the circumstances attending his death are a complete refutation of the malicious imputations that were endeavoured to be fastened upon his memory. U MAKCH 1678-9, 290 together ; I kill'd the dam, and he the kid, and with much a doe wee carryd them to our boate, but were very much tyred, for it was at least 2 miles off. I gathered also at least a pound of rosin from on bough. Here is excellent good ground ; rosmary in abundance, fyr trees, pyne, juniper, and 'tis said som cedar trees. Wee cam not to an anchor, but sayled too and froe in the Bay all the day. At night haveing gott our wood on board, wee put to sea. Here was buryed William Foster, of the carpenter's crue. 1 3 According to our orders yesterday, wee sayle back towards Majorca ; and wee have so fayre a gale that wee are at anchor in the Roade of Majorca at 5 in the afternoone, and salute the towne with 7 gunns. They answer'd not at all : at which our Captaine was very angry. 14 At 8 this morning, the Vice-Roy (hearing how ill it was taken that .they did not answer the King of England's man of war) commanded 4 gunns to be fyred ; foure had pleas'd us as well. 15 A fayre day, but our Captaine, haveing taken colde at Firmateara, was bad last night, and continues worse to day. (16) The wind favouring wee are under sayle by 8, and for AUgant ; but our Captaine is worse than he was. Yet wee had divine service ; and the Fryar I spake of before sate by mee all the while very devoutly. J 7 Twas a very tempestuous night, and a hard gale. W^ee discover a fleete of ships : they proved to be Hollanders, 1 5 sayle, and bound for Aligant. At 1 2 MARCH 1678-9. 291 wee are over against Orlandoes Gapp. Our Captain continues very ill ; and I begin to feare his death. And this night I sate up by his bed syd all night. Many times he would talk very lightsom, and pre- sently againe he would talke light headed, 18 By 4 this morning wee com to anchor in Aligant Roade ; where wee find Dutch, French, Spanyards, but not on English ship. 1 9 Our Captaine is now past all hopes of recovery. This is the 7th, and he'l not (wee feare) see another. The wind is crosse, else wee had sayled this day. Brave Captaine Antony Langston dyed a very little after 10 a clock this night. I stood by his bed syde when he breathed his last. I went immediatly to my cabin, and wrote this distich, and presented it to Mr. Cullen, there present, and the cheifest of the English merchants at Aligant. Antonius Langston Generosus (proli dolor!) ille Quern nemo potuit vincere^ morte jacet. Obijt 10'°'' 9"** die Martij, paulo post 10^™ liorajn vesp'tinam, A. D. 1678. 20 About sun-setting wee went out about 2 leages to sea, carrying our Captaine in our barge, and there put him over-board, for wee have no burying place on shoare. Wee were accompanyd with 8 more boats ; and all the commaunders of the Hollanders and English in the Roade, and all the English mer- chants in Aligant. At our going off our ship fyred 40 gunns; the Hollanders at least 100. The sol- lemnity hemg over, all the company cam back to our u 2 MARCH 1678-9. 292 ship, where wee had an excellent collation, and plenty of wine. After all this, I presented the cheife of them with a coppy of these verses. And thus far, you can not but say, wee have had a voyage of trouble. I pray to God that the worst of it is past now. EPITAPH. Antonius Langston Generosiis (proh dolor!) ille Quern nemo potuit vincere^ morte jacet. Obiit decimo nono die Martij, paulo post deci- mam horam vesp'tinam. An: D'm*' 1678-9. In Ohitum ejus Carmen Fnnebre. Non tibi luce quies, nee erat tibi tempore noctis ; Dura fuit pariter nox, et amara dies. Lux tibi Christus adest (peccati nocte relicta,) Nee dolor uUus erit^ sed sine fine quies. Pro terris coelum ; post luctus gaudia nactus : Ossa tegit fluctus ; spiritus astra petit. Vita beata satis^ dum vix'ti vivere Christo ; Sed summo melior vivere vita Deo. Cur tristes decorent lacrymse tua funera ? Dorm is In Domino^ dum te litua clara vocet. Dulce jugum Domini est patienter ferre ; tulisti^ Euge, ferox cessat pugna ; corona manet. Sharpe was the day^ and bitter was the nighty, And boath were tedious^ cause thy paines were stronge ; Now Christ is come, and brings to thee his light. Dispelling sinn's dark night, though that were longe : Now neyther griefe torments, nor pains offend ; Now rest is come ; such rest as hath no end. Now hast thou heaven for earth : O happy change ! For grj.eie thou now ay-lasting joys hast gott. Thy soule amidst the blessed troops doth rainge. Although thy bones in boystrous billows rott. Happy thy life, whoe liveing livdst to Christ ; Happyer thy death, who dead, livst with the Highst ! MARCH 1678-9. 293 Then why should mournful! teares bedew thy tombe ? Full sweetly now thou sleepest in the Lord, Untill shrill-sounding-trump at day of Doome Doe raise all flesh according to his word : Sweete tis to beare God's yoake, though 't bee som paines : Thou didst ; the fight is past, the crowne remaines. Henricus Teonge, Mcestissimus. 21 This morninge (according to my promise last night) I went a shoare and was very courteously entertained by Mr. CuUen ; and 22 By 9 wee are under sayle, and for England, God wiUing. God send us weU thither, for now our myrth is past the best ! I buryed Francis Forrest, as tis said eaten to death with lyce. As wee went out of this Roade, the Woolwich cam in with 10 merchants, of which 5 cam from them and sayled with us. (23) So great a fog that wee are faine to ring our bells, beate drumms, and fyre musketts often, to keep us from falling foule on upon another. Wee had prayers ; after which I buryed Joseph Pearson. About 3 the Woolwich and her 5 merchants com and joyne with us ; so that now wee doe not feare all the pickaroons in Turca. Shee cam to our starne, and wee saluted her with 7 guns and 3 cheares, shee did the same ; wee gave her 3 more, shee did the same ; wee thanked them with on more, she did so too ; and so wee sayle together. Deus nobiscum sit^ 'precor .' At 6 a thick fogg, and wee aU lay by ; and 24 About on a clock this morning wee make sayle againe. At 11 wee are with a small gale over MAUCH 1679. 294 against Cape Snt. Paule. At 2 fell a greate fog againe, and much hindred us. At 6 wee com before Carthageene, and a merchant that lay there cam out to us, and made our number 20. 25 Our Lady Day ; and wee begin the yeare with 1679. prayers. A very foule wind all these days. 28 Our two Leiftenants and other officers take a noate of all Captaine Langston's things, and lock them all up. (30) No prayers, the weather was so very bad ; and wee are faine to dine, not at a table, but lying upon the deck. And wee have not yet passed Car- thageene. 31 By 12 to day wee are past Table Round. At 2 there cam in to us the Phoenix and the Seafar, shee having a Turk's antient under the English, which shee tooke from the vessell which shee latly forced on shoare, and burnt. And this night these 2 ships left us againe. They brought us the ill news of the Moores taking 2 forts at Tangeare, and carryd away the heads of the men they kild there. April 1 Very fayre weather. And wee are past Cape de Gatt, and got into Almarya Bay, but not likely to gett out this night. Here wee mett a rich English fleete, of above 20 sayle ; som for Zante, som for Smyrna, som for Scanderoond. Severall salutes passe on boath syds. At 5 the wind being crosse, all our fleete com to an anchor in Almarya Bay, and just before a pittifull castle, called Rocketta, not worth the name of a castle. 4 By 6 wee are all under saile, but the wind soon APRIL 1679. 295 slacked, and wee all cam back againe, but cam not to an anchor. 5 This morne wee are all benighted in a thick fogg. At 6 at night the wind was so stronge, that it splitt om' sayls. (6) No prayers, the weather was so very bad ; for it splitt our maine top mast, and also our fore top mast. I buryed Isaac Webb out at the gunn-roome porte. All our carpenters are at woorke at the masts. 7 A little after 2 wee com to an anchor againe before Rocketta, in 24 fathom water ; for wee can- not get out of this Bay. At 12 this night wee gett up our maine top mast ; and tis strange to them that have never seen it, to consider how a peice of timber of that length and thicknes (viz. 1 9 inches through) should be made to stand on the top of another peice, and to beare that stresse. The main mast is 32 yards in length. The main top mast on the top of that is 21 yards and a foote. The top gallant above that is 8 yards and on foote. So that from the bottom to the top, there is three score yards and 5 foote, besyds the flagg- staff, which at the least is 6 yards in length. 1 Here wee lye still wind bound. Wee put up our new fore top mast. 12 The wind is at last com about. At 8 wee are all under sayle ; at 9 wee meete our Vice-Admirall, the Rupei-t, the Mary, the Orrange Tree, the Seafar, and the Phoenix; all English frigotts. And now wee have more alterrations and trouble. Captaine APiiiL 1679. 296 Rumcoyle^' was ordered out of the Phoenix into our ship, the Royall Oake, and cam on board us at 8 ; and wee were very merry. Captaine Clously Shovell^* ^^ Capt. Roome Coyle was appointed Lieutenant of the BendisPi in 1664:, and in the following year was promoted to the command of the same ship : from this^ in a short time^ he removed into the Guinea^ a fourth-rate of thirty-eight guns; and in the year 1666 he was promoted to the Dragon^ a fourth-rate also^ but in a state of superior equipment. He was one of the seconds to Sir Thomas Allen^, Admiral of the White^ at the time his squadron joined the Duke of Albemarle^ and turned the scale of victory in his favour, after he had been severely pressed by the Dutch fleet during the two first days of the engagement of June 1666. His gallant behaviour on that occasion procured him the command of the Montague, a third-rate, but he was not again employed in active service till the commencement of the second Dutch war in 1672, when he was appointed to the Ruby of fifty-four guns, which some years previously had been taken from the French by Sir Thomas Allen. On the 17th of October, 1677;» he was made Captain of the Phoenix, and sent to the Mediter- ranean. He continued on that station until the year 1679^, when he was removed to the Royal Oak by Admiral Herbert^ and sent home with a convoy. On the 29th of July, 1682, he was appointed to the Spanish Merchant, and on the 11th of . June, 1685, was promoted by King James to command the Crown, of which ship he continued Captain till the 14th of August, 1686, when he was superseded by Captain Nevill. On the 25 tb of March, 1689, he was appointed to the Nonsuch frigate of eighty-six guns, but did not long enjoy his new appointment, being killed oiF Guernsey on the 12th of May following, in an action with two French frigates, one of thirty guns, the other of sixteen guns, and six peteraroes ; and thus gallantly ended a life that had been long assiduously employed in the service of his country. ^^ Captain Shovel was born near Clay, in Norfolk, about the year 1650, of parents in middling circumstances, who appren- ticed him to a mechanical trade, which he applied himself to but a short time before he abandoned it, and went to sea as a cabin- boy under the protection of Sir Christopher Myngs. Having a APRIL 1679. 297 out of the Seafar into the Phoenix ; and Leiuetenant Blagge out of the Rupert into the Seafar. (13) A fay re day, but a foule wind : wees ayle too and strong inclination for the sea^ he very assiduously applied himself to the study of navigation^ and soon becoming an able seaman, was rapidly promoted, and in 1673 was appointed second Lieu- tenant on board the Henrietta. In 1674 our merchants in the Mediterranean being very much distressed by the piratical State of Tripoli, a squadron under the command of Sir John Narbo- rough was sent there for their protection, and arriving before Tripoli in the spring of the following year, found considerable preparations had been made by the Tripolines for their defence. Sir John being desirous of effecting his object by negotiation rather than force, sent Lieutenant Shovel on shore to demand satisfac- tion for the past and security for the future. Shovel delivered his message to the Dey Avith great spirit ; but the latter, probably despising the messenger on account of his youth, treated him and his message with contempt, and sent him back to the Admiral with an indefinite answer. Upon regaining his ship. Lieutenant Shovel acquainted the Admiral with the ill success of his attempt to negotiate with the Dey, and reported some observations he had made while on shore ; upon which he was sent with a second message to the piratical Chief, and instructed to continue his ob- servations. The behaviour of the Dey was more offensive upon this second attempt at conciliation than at first, and the Lieu- tenant was ordered to quit the city; but contrived, under various pretences, to delay his departure until he had completed his observations. Upon his return he convinced the Admiral that it was practicable to destroy all the ships in the harbour, not- withstanding their lines and forts ; and accordingly, in the night of the 4th of March, Shovel, with all the boats of the fleet filled with combustibles, went boldly into the harbour and destroyed the vessels, and then returned in safety to the fleet, without having lost a single man. The Tripolines were so disconcerted at the boldness and success of this attack, that they immediately sued for peace. Of this affair Sir John Narborough gave so just an account in his letters home, that in the following year Lieutenant Shovel was promoted to the command of the Sapphire, a third- rate, and from that to the James Galley, a fourth-rate, in which APRit 1679. 298 froe, and cannot yet get out of this Bay. No prayers, by reason of the multiplicity of our new he continued until the death of Charles II. Although known to be opposed to the arbitrary measures of James II. that monarch continued him in his employment^ and promoted him to the Dover^ which he commanded at the period of the Revolution — an event in which he heartily concurred. In 1689 he commanded the Edgar, a third-rate, in the battle of Bantry Bay, and so dis- tinguished himself by his courage and conduct, that King Wil- liam conferred on him the honour of knighthood at Portsmouth. In 1690 he was employed in convoying William and his troops into Ireland, and so pleased the King by his diligence and dex- terity, that he delivered him a commission of Rear Admiral of the Blue, with his own hand. Jvist before William set out for Holland, in 1692, he made him Rear Admiral of the Red, and appointed him to command the squadron that was to convoy him thither. After performing this service, he joined Admiral Rus- sell, with the grand fleet, and had a share in the victory at La Hogue. In the following year, the fleet being put under the command of joint Admirals, Sir Cloudesley Shovel was named as one; and the popular feeling being excited against the manage- ment of the fleet at that period. Sir Cloudesley was at first an object of odium, but upon the afl^air being investigated in Par- liament, he completely exculpated himself and his fellow-com- manders from blame. In 1694 he was again at sea, and joined ' the Lord Berkeley in the expedition to Camaret Bay; and in 1702 he was sent to bring home the spoils of the Spanish gal- leons from Vigo, after the capture of that place by Sir George Rooke. In 1703 he commanded the grand fleet up the Streights ; and in 1704, with a powerful squadron, joined Sir George Rooke, then in the Mediterranean, and led the van in the action off" Malaga. Upon his return home he was presented to Queen Anne, by Prince George of Denmark (as Lord High Ad- miral,) and met with a very gracious reception, and in the fol- lowing year he was employed as Commander-in-chief. In 1705 he commanded the fleet on the coast of Spain, which acted in conjunction with the army under the Earls of Peterborough and Monmouth, in assisting the Archduke Charles of Austria to obtain the Spanish throne, and by his activity and advice APRIL 1679. 299 Captaine's buisnes. The grampuses play about our shipps. Now wee have a fayre day, and wind too. eminently contributed to the capture of Barcelona."^ After the unsuccessful attempt upon Toulon, (which appears to have failed chiefly from the tardiness of the Duke of Savoy, who, with Prince Eugene, commanded the land forces). Admiral Shovel bore away with his fleet for the Streights, but soon after resolved to return home, leaving Sir Thomas Dilkes, with nine ships of the line, at Gibraltar, and proceeded with the remainder of the fleet, consisting of ten ships of the line, four fire-ships, a sloop, and a yatch, for England. On the 22d of October, 1707;. he came into soundings, having fair weather and ninety fathoms water : about noon, apprehending he was near the Rocks of Scilly, he lay by ; but at six in the evening he made the signal for sailing again, and stood away under his courses E. by N. In a very short time, several of his ships made signals of distress ; and about eight o'clock his own ship, the Association, struck upon the reef of rocks called the Bishop and his Clerks, and im- mediately went to pieces, when every soul on board perished. The body of Sir Cloudesley Shovel was washed on shore on the following day, and after having been plundered by the country people, was buried in the sand ; it was, however, speedily re- covered by an officer of the Arundel, one of his fleet, and con- veyed to Portsmouth, whence it was taken to London, and buried with great funeral pomp in Westminster Abbey, where a monument was erected to his memory at the cost, and by the di- rection, of Queen Anne. At the time of his death, (being then in his 57th year,) Sir Cloudesley Shovel was Rear Admiral of England, an Admiral of the White, Commander-in-chief of her Majesty's fleets, and one of the Council to Prince George of Denmark, Lord High Admiral of England. He married the widow of his patron. Sir * In a letter sent to Queen Anne by Charles, announcing the success of her arms, dated from the camp at Serris, before Barcelona, 22d of October, 1705, the King expresses his sense of obligation to the diflferent Comman- ders, and goes on thus — "And principally to your worthy Admiral, Shovel, as- suring your Majesty, that he has seconded me in this expedition with an inconceivable readiness and application, and no Admiral can e^'er make me more content than he has done." APRIL 1679, 300 14 And this morning wee are gott out of our beloved Bay of Almarya. Wee are more merry then T thought wee should have beene : our new Captain e is woondrouse free, not only of his excellent wine, but also of his owne good and free company amonge us. Wee had a pigg to dinnar this day worth Ss. in England. 15 A fresh gale brings us past Maligo by 10 : and at anchor in Tangeare Roade by 9, where wee find many of our frigotts. 16 Wee sent the long boate on shoare for provision, but got non. J 7 Much raine all the last night ; and so all this day. 1 9 Fayre boath days. And wee are busy in takeing in som provisions, and passengers for England. (20) Good Easter Day; and at 10 wee are under sayle for Cales. But wee made a short voyage, for the winde altered, and wee cam to anchor againe before 11. And on Mr. Grimes (on of the Ministers of Tangeare, whoe coms for England with us) preacht > on board us. The Moores alarm'd the towne this night, but did no dammage at all. 21 By 8 wee are under sayle, and salute the towne with 1 1 gunns ; they gave us as many. Wee give them 3 ; they did the same. Then wee salute the Vice-Admirall with 9, bee gives us 7 ; wee re- tume 3, he on ; and wee give him on againe : and so wee sayle on with a bad wind. John Narborough, by whom he left two daughters^ co-heiresses, the eldest of whom married Lord Romney, and the other Sir Narborough d'Aeth, Bart. APRIL 1679. 301 22 The wind was so tempestuous and also crosse last night, that it forced us back 1 leages into the Straits mouth ; so that wee were forced to make for Guy- bralter or Gibblettore, where wee cam to an anchor a little after 12. 23 This day cam the Governor and many more brave fellows on board us to see our ship. At their de- parture wee gave them 3 cheares and 15 gunns. 24 Tis a very fay re day; and many Spanish ladys com on board, and dine with our Captaine. 25 By 10 wee are under sayle againe, but wee have bad luck; for, making the anchor fast, the hooke brake, and the anchor ran downe againe, and wee sayld not till 1 2. But wee have a fayre and fresh gale ; and at 3 wee passe by Terriff on our starboard syde, and by 5 wee pass by Tangear on the larboard side, with a brave gale. 26 By 12 wee com into Gales Roade, but not to an anchor, for there wee were ordered to the contrary. And at night wee made sayle for England, with Sir John Earnly in the Defiance, the Homer fyre ship, and at least 40 merchants. Deus nohiscum I (27) I preacht my first sermon in the Roy all Oake. Psall. Ixvi. 13. Tis a fayre day; and wee are over against Snt. Mary Port Cape. Calme weather to the end of this month. i^Iay 1 A fayre day, and a fresh gale, and wee are past Cape Snt. Vincent. I buryed John Johnson out of the gunn-roome port. 2 Calme this day. Some strangers coming on board to dine with us caused Doctor Grimes to give us an MAY 1670. 302 Easter sermon. I buryed Henry Johns, out of the gunn-roome port. 3 This morne wee are in sight of Mount Chego in Portugall, with a small wind. I buryed Rich. Dell, as before. (4) Prayers, but no sermon ; because our Captaine dined on board a merchant man. Next to a calme ; but that small wind that is, is crosse. 5 The same wether still to our greate discomfort ; for wee have little fresh water, and as little provisions for such a sick ship's company. God send us a short passage I 6 Fay re weather, but no wind. 7 A small gale. I buryed Thomas Smyth. 8 A crosse wind ; at 10 at night rose a brave gale. 9 And holds the same to day. I buryed John Horsenayle. 10 The gale holds still. About 8 this morning our fore top mast cam by the board at once, and brake in 3 peices, but hurt no body. (11) Doctor Grymes preacht to day. A brave gale. 12 I buryed Mr. Richard Cooling in a coffin. 1 3 An indifferent good gale, and fayre weather. And at 12 wee are in the King of England's dominions {Deo gratia), that is, wee are past Cape Phinister (Finisterre), and entering on the Bay of Biscay. This day I was much abused in my cabin by Samuell Bayly, with base language. I may live to requite him on shoare. 14 A brave gale to carry us over this dangerouse Bay, for which our noble Captaine keeps grande festo. MAY 1679. 303 J 5 The gale holds, but wee are hindred by som bad saylers. 16 Little wind. I biiryed William Wattson, whoe niade Sam. Bayly his executor. 17 A brave gale, but wee are hindred by som heavy say ling merchants. This afternoone wee call all our men to their quarters, in case wee have occasion. (^18) A fayre wind still. And because wee were neare England Doctor Grymes desyred of mee to give us a farewell sermon, 1 9 Some raine, but a fayre wind. Wee mett with a small French vessel, which after wee had fyred at her 7 gunns, cam under our starne, and told us there was no warr betweene us and France. She had neyther colors, nor so much as an ancient-staff. Wee sounded, and found ground at 1 1 9 fatham. 20 This day wee sound, and find ground at 76 fatham,^ and are in the latitude of 48 an a halfe, and doe therby know that wee are neare Old England. 21 This morning wee meete with 2 English frigotts,^^ the Dunkyrk and the Lyon, who acquaint us with the affayres of England, and the disturbances made there by the Papists damnable plott. And this morning wee made the Land's End ; and rejoyce in boules of punch that wee can see Old England once more, though wee have lost many of our men. 22 By 5 this morning wee passe by Falmouth ; and at halfe an howre past 4 in the afternoone wee are, thanks be to God! at anchor in Plimmouth Roade. 28 Agent Pierson cam in this morning, and the MAY 1679. 304 Governor of the cyttidell dined on board us. Grande festo. This was the first day wee dranke beere of a twelvemonth. 24 This morning wee wey anchor. Grande festo, for the Governor of the Ld. Lambert's Hand, and divers others dined on board us. Wee sayle, and our yawle is left behind us, with our Pursor and som others. (25) No prayers, our Captaine being not well. I bu- ryed Jeffery Tranow. By 4 wee are over against the He of Wyte, with a fayre gale. At 9 at night, and after, wee heard severaU gunns fyred to the southward. 26 By 8 wee are past the 7 cliffs, and the wind fayl- ing in the evening, wee cam to an anchor in Dover Roade a little after 9, being loath to sayle in the darke. 27 By 1 1 wee are at anchor in the Downes, where severall salutes passe ; and wee rejoyce in boules of punch and brandy. 28 Grande festo on board us, haveing most of the Com- manders in the Downes and their ladys at dinner. 29 King Charles his byrth day and happy returne to England. Soone after 12, Sandowne Castle began, and fyred 2 1 gunns. After that Wawmer Castle ; then Deale Castle. After them our Admyrall ; next the Defiance ; next our ship the Royall Oake : and then with her all the rest of the fleete fyred allto- gether ; so that for an howers space it seemed like a sea-fight, and all in honour of King Charles, whom ferod blesse with long life ! &c. JUNE 1679. 305 30 A rainy day. I biiryed Joseph Bryan. And weo sent to shoare 32 sick men ; pittifull creatures. 3 1 The Muster master mustered us, and wanted above 60 men that were on the bookes, all dead at sea. June (1) A gallant fay re day. Prayers, but no sermon ; for our Captaine dined not on board our ship to day. 2 Rainy weather. Our yawle and the men in her that were left behind at Plimmouth cam this day to us, and we were glad to see on the other. 3 4 5 Rainy and stormy these days. 6 And so to day. I went on shoare to visitt the minister of Deale, Mr. Garrett, to acquaint him with oui' Captain's desyre, 7 The Prick master cam to muster us, and found us defective. (8) I preacht at Upper Deale; text, Psal. Ixvi. 13. And here our Captaine, and my selfe, and som others, received the sacrament. 9 This morning wee had orders to com up to Sher- nesse. 1 This day our Captaine, and myselfe, and our senior Leiuetenant went to Dover, where wee tooke the oaths of allegiance and supremacy, and were nobly entertain 'd by the victualler. 11 Very windy. This day the Ld. Tresurer's sonn and the Ld. cam on board to see our ship. 12 This morning wee get on anchor on board, and heave short, redy to sayie ; but a fogg fell and stayd our passage. 1 3 Wee cam to an anchor the last night for 2 houres, and so this day for 2 homes. X JUNE 1679. 306 14 The last night wee cam to an anchor about 2 leages from Shernesse. The wind being foule, wee towed in about 7, and cam to an anchor about 11 of the clock. (15) Prayers, but no sermon ; our Captaine dined not on board. 16 Our Pilate cam on board to carry our ship up the River. 1 7 This day wee loaded a hoy with empty casks for London. 1 8 Strainge blowing weather for the time of the yeare. 19 Wee are prepareing to take out our gunns. 20 Wee have newes of our being payd off speedily. I went on shoare with our Leiuetenant ; and Sir Tho. Allen sayd he would pay us off on Munday. 21 Wee are busy in unrigging our ship in part. (22) All mad to day. I went to Rochester, with our Leiuetenant and Pursor, and drink sack, &c. 23 Wee leave our ship at anchor at the Black Stakes, and are pay'd off for the Roy all Oake ; only my selfe and our Chyrurgion are demur'd for our groats and twopences ^^. °^ The allowance of Groats and Twopences to the Chaplains and Surgeons of the Royal Navy, appears to have been an an- cient usage, and probably arose from the circumstance of their pay having been fixed upon a scale greatly disproportioned to the rate of that allowed to other officers of a corresponding rank. An increase to their income was therefore made by deducting 4d. per month from the wages of each man for the Chaplain, and 2d. for the Surgeon; which extra allowance was paid to them, subject to any demurrage which might arise during the period of service. These allowances were, however, discontinued a few JUNE 1679. 307 24 I tooke my man back to our ship, and sent him with my goods to London in a hoy; and I returning to Rochester to my aunte Nicholes, found there Mrs. CHpsham and my sonn Thomas, and my cousin Betty Smith, whoe cam so farr to welcom mee home. 25 Wee vew the Castle, Colledge and other places. 26 Wee vew the Royall Sovereigne and other ships, and also the Dock and wood-yard. 27 Accompanyed with Councellor and his daughter, wee all goe in a coatch to Gravesend, and thence with a pay re of oares to London, where wee 28 arrived at Billingesgate about 2 a clock on Satterday morning. I stayd at London about 6 weekes, being in hopes of being payd off every weeke ; but, at the last, haveing notice that wee should not be payd till Michaelmas, I went into the country to my owne house. Cam up againe at Michaelmas day ; stayd there about 'i weekes : was payd off at last, with som abatements ; and then came safe home againe to Spemall, Deo gr alias ! years since ; when, by a new regulationj the sea-pay of all officers of his Majesty's Navy was made net, without any addi- tion or deduction whatever. X 2 LISTS OF THE ROYAL NAVY, 1675. The first of the following Lists of the British Navy is copied from a very exact tabular account, in the hand- writing of Henry Teonge, at the end of his Diary. The particulars which it affords of the dimensions, complement of men, number and nature of guns, and when, where, and by whom built, as far as apply to the first, second, third, and fourth rate ships, are more full and complete than any other existing document with which we are ac- quainted. The Second Table is a copy of a MS. in the Harleian Collection, No. 6277; being a List of the Navy in 1675, as delivered to the House of Commons by Mr. Pepys, then Secretary of the Navy. The accuracy and authenticity of Henry Teonge's account are very satis- factorily estabhshed by a comparison with the official statements. 3J1 t i 1 Capt.Pett, sen. ! Mr. Deane. I Mr. Deane. | Mr. Pett. Mr. Sish. 1 Ch. Pett. i Mr. Sish. j Com. Ships. 1 PQ Mr. Pett. Mr. Pett, reb. Mr. Callis. the French. Mr. Burrell. Mr. Burrell. Mr. Knight. Mr. Boate. H 45 S ill 2 — ,AA . . . rd :sggsl3s§ * a a s"? *3 a •usqAV '^ *0 CO CO 0? 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In. 39 40 6 39 10 38 10 1 OOCOOOCOXG>Ji>OOOXCOOCOO t-X;ot-cot~cocoG«o •J35IHS ^- 8^ ^ §^ ^ ^ ^ ^ g^.^ gi i 8^ § i § i § ^ i •nu'aA\n3 ^ ^^Slg^g^^^gl^^^ •sjapanoj fs ^§^^^^.^^^^^ -A •snn^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ •nan aOXGO(XaOQCCOGOQC''0^00-iO*CtO^^*0«> Pi -o 1 ■=1: •sano •a^K iiiiliiiiiiiiiiiiiii < •suno •iiafM i§iiiiiiiiiiiiiiii§§ «5 o 53 •sjnanj. io ;ii5t»H.ici c'*'Q0OOOO5OOOOO.-fOOOO «500 •qidaa 5 •inpeajg ifacoMcococococyjcocococccococoooco coccM mSaai sOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO ooo .OOiC500^0'**^*Oi-HO'-0*4 ■'^O'* jCi-iOO'-H.-HO'-HOOOOOOOOO OOO- a C 55 i 1 IlllllllillliJflliii 314 OP 1 ^ 'gc s ^ ^ M-s m cfi O ^ 5 S^ bo ' s oj a '3 > P5 « cs ca 03 rv . s ^ Thes nal MS •uaq^W •jo>iBS si]^ <0<0(0^fO(0<0-^-^'^-^^^^'^-^^-^ ••lan'^S >OOOOOOOOOOQ0QDQ0aDa0a0QDQ0«05O •UliaAltlQ •tldpi ooooooooooa0'io*o^o*0'io-^oo •sunQ 0}G^G^OJC>JOJOOOOaocX)«>?cicocoocoG^O OOOOOO'O^^OiOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOGOCOC»COOCO^<'^'iO^'5*0-^G^O OJO}OJO}OJO<'-H'-Hi-H,-(r-(T-lr-(r-I^PHr-(F-lO)0? •suno •saannx oooooooooooooooooooo oocococococoG^OiG^OQOiOjQoaoxJooQoooG^o ^•0«0«0.00?Ot- b-t^ _• o o o o'o oooooooooo oco rrOOOOOOi-lOCiCiOSOsQOQDQO QOQO c^ [i; p§ o 5 w ^ ffl o^ Q H ■<: c» o ^ piH fi; ;z; Q ^ ^ s^ n-i r* . . . y^ I . 5 t. = 1, • § he ™ '3^ Oi M 3 ^^r^ 5^ S S ^^-Ti ^ O - c o LIST— No. 11. APRIL 24, 1675. In y^ House of Commons. A List of all His Ma^^^" Ships & Vessels. Expressing y® respective Rates and Qualities, w* their severall Ages, Burthens, Numbers of Men, & Guns. Built Built Ships. i n the Year Tuns. Men. Guns. Ships. 1 n tlie Tuus. Year Men. Guns. Monmouth . . 1666- 859 400 66 First Rate. Royall Oake 1674 1107 500 70 Soveraigne . . 1637 1556 850 100 Resolution . . 1667 885 400 68 S^ Andrew . . 1670 1338 750 100 Rupert . . . 166| 827 400 64 Charles . . . 1667 1258 750 100 Swiftsure . . . 1673 978 400 66 RoyaU Charles . 1673 1416 800 102 Warr Spight 1666 905 400 68 London . . . 1670 1328 750 96 Defiance . . . 1675 864 400 60 St. Michael . . 1669 1102 550 98 Prince . . . . 1670 1382 800 100 Fourth Rate, Royall James 1675 1420 800 100 Adventure . . 1646 393 170 40 Second Rate. Advise . . . . 1650 545 220 50 Andelope . . . 1653 516 220 46 S*. George . . 1622 891 460 68 Assistance . . 1650 521 220 50 Henry . . . . 1656 1082 540 78 Assurance . . 1646 345 170 42 Old James . . 1633 906 500 75 Bonadventure . 1663 505 220 52 Rainbowe . . . 1617 866 410 56 Bristoll . . . 1653 532 220 48 Triumphe , . 1623 891 500 70 Centurion . . 1650 532 220 50 Victory . . . 1665 1038 530 84 Cons*. Warwick 1655 306 170 42 Unicorne . . . 1633 633 420 68 Crowne . . . 165f 562 200 50 French Ruby 1666 868 460 80 Diamond . . . 1651 548 220 4& Royall Katherine 1664 1004 530 100 Dover . . . . 1654 533 .200 54 Third Rate. Dragon . . . 1647 470 200 44 Foresight . . . 1650 521 220 52 Dreadnought 165| 739 360 64 Hamshire . . 1653 479 200 46 Dunkirke . . 1651 662 340 64 Happy Returne 1654 609 240 48 Gloucester . . 165f 165| 755 340 60 Jersey . . . . 1654 556 220 48 Henrietta . . 781 340 60 Leopard . . . 1658 657 280 56 Lion . . . . 1640 417 340 60 Mary Rose . . 165f 556 220 56 Mary . . . . 1649 778 360 60 New Castle . . 1653 626 240 52 Monke . . . 1659 678 340 58 Portland . . . 1652 608 240 50 Mountain . . 1654 770 360 56 Portsmouth . • 1649 463 200 48 Plymouthe . . 1653 740 340 58 Princess . . . 1660 602 240 54 Revenge . . . 1654 767 360 60 Reserve . . . 1650 533 220 48 Yorke . . . . 1654 754 340 62 Ruby . . . . 1651 557 220 48 Rotterdam . . 1673 950 460 60 Swallow . . - 1653 549 220 50 Cambridge . . 1666 937 400 70 Tyger . . . . 1647 443 180 46 Edgar . . . . 1668 994 400 74 Yarmouth . . 1653 608 240 54 Harwich . . . 1674 989 400 66 St. David . . . 166^ 639 260 56 316 Built I Bailt 1 Ships. in Ihf Year Tuns, Men. Guns. Ships. iQ the year Tuns. Men. Guns. Faulcon . . . 1666 530 170 40 Unity, Horse boat 1651 40 4 Greenwich . . 1666 G66 280 60 HULKES. Nonsuch . . . 1668 354 170 40 Oxford . . . 1674 670 260 54 Eagle . . . . 1653 896 6 Stavooreen . . 1672 500 200 50 Elias . . . . 1653 400 2 Sweepstakes Woolwich . . 1666 376 170 40 Violet . . . . 1653 400 1 1675 750 300 54 Alphen . . . 1673 716 4 Kingfisher . . 1675 662 220 50 Europa . . . 1673 406 18 Slothany . . . 1665 772 8 Fifth Rate. Stathouse . . 1667 440 4 Eagle . . . . Guarland . . . 1654 296 150 34 Armes of Horn . 1673 600 6 • 1654 266 150 34 Ketches. Guernsey . . . 1654 259 150 32 Mermaid . 1651 286 140 30 Deptford . . . 1665 109 50 12 Norwich . . . 1655 257 160 30 Quaker . . . 1671 85 45 8 Pearle . . . . Richmond . . 1651 1655 286 238 150 130 28 28 Smacks. Speedwell . . Success 1656 238 140 30 Bridgett . . . Sea Venture <. . 1672 4 2 1657 294 155 30 1660 30 3 Holmes 1657 180 110 24 Sheernes . . . 1672 12 2 Hunter 1657 300 130 30 Little London . 1672 6 2 Swanne . . . 1673 340 150 32 Shish . . . . 1672 5 2 Rose . . . . 1674 240 100 28 Sloopes. Phenix 1671 345 170 40 Saphire . . . 1675 365 170 30 Bonotta . . . 1673 57 36 6 Chatham . . . 1673 49 36 4 Sixth Rate. Dove . . . . 1672 20 30 4 Drake . . . . 1652 146 70 14 Emsworth . . 1667 39 30 6 Francis 1666 141 80 20 Hound . . . 1673 46 36 Greyhound 1672 184 80 14 Hunter . . . 1673 45 36 Roebuck 1666 134 80 18 Invention . . 1673 28 30 Young Sprag Fan Fan . . . 1673 1665 90 35 45 30 8 4 Prevention . . Sp5^e . . . . 1672 1666 46 28 36 30 Liarke . . . . 1675 194 90 18 Vulture . . . 1673 62 36 Swadadoes 1670 182 80 16 Whipsf. Brignt. Woolwich . . 1672 25 30 1673 57 36 6 Doggers. Yatchts. Dover . . . . 1673 75 36 8 Anne . . . . 1661 100 30 8 FiRESHIPS. Bezan . . . . Cleveland . . 1661 1671 35 107 6 30 4 8 Ann&Christophei 1671 240 45 8 Deale . . . . 1673 24 6 2 Wevenhoe . . 166-^ 83 20 6 James . . . . 1662 26 3 Isle of Wight . 1673 31 4 4 Gallyes. Katherine . . 1674 131 30 10 Margaret . . . 1673 260 460 5 Kitchin . . . 1670 100 30 6 D Merlin . . . 1666 109 30 8 Hoyes. Monmouth . . 1666 103 30 10 Harwich . . 1660 52 4 Navy . . . . 1673 74 25 I.ighter at \ Portsmouth / ! ,.^ Portsmouth . . 1674 133 20 10 1662 1 100 5 Quinburrow . . 1671 27 2 2 Mary Gould . 1653 42 4 Richmond . . 1672 64 20 S 317 An Abstract of the preceding List of Ships and Vessels. Num. 1 Ships and Vesyells. of Tuns. Ships. Men. Guns. First Rate . . . 8 jlOSOO 6050, 796 Second Rate 9 8179 4350 679 Third Rate 22 18145 8380 1400 Fourth Rate 37 19822 8060:1816 Fifth Rate . 15 4190 2153 460 Sixth Rate . 8 1106 555 112 99 62242 2955015263 Doggers . . . 1 75 36 8 Fireships 2 323 65 14 GaUyes . 1 260 460 5 Hoyes . Hulkes . 4 234 17 8 4630 49 Ketches 2 194 95 20 Sraackes 5 57 11 Sloopes . 12 502 402 50 Yaehts . 14 1064 266 88 49 7339 1401 185 The proportion of Tuns, Men and Guns of the Ships of each Rate, one with the other. Ships. Tuns. Men. Guns. First Rates . . 1350 756f 991 Second Rates . . 908 5 4831 75 i Third Rates . . 824^,^ 3801? 63^^ Fourth Rates . . 535/, 2171i 49;^; Fifth Rates . . 279 A 143i? 30J-2 Sixth Rates . . 138? 69| 14 INDEX. Acrostic, one on Capt. Holding, 129. Adventure of a soldier on board the Bristol, 239. of an English gentleman at Aleppo, 174. ' of the Chaplain on his way to Scanderoon, 186. Affair with a ship of Tripoly, 62. Africa, geographical account of, 202. Alarm, false one, by a French ship, 286. Aleppo, Teonge's departure for that city, 153. , arrival of the caravan at, 157- 163. , account of the city and castle, 173. 178, n. Q^- J its appearance from the adjacent hills, 176. Alexandria, ancient saying of it, 194. Aligant (Alicant), account of, 38. , tradition of Moorish valour at, 38, n. 24t. Allen, Admiral Sir Thomas, 251, w. 78. Almarya (Almeria), Bay, 268. Anecdote of two sailors, 254, n. 80. Antediluvian cedars, 150. Antioch, the plains of, 154. 184. Apes Hill, 33. Apples of Sodom, 123, n. 58. Arabia, geographical account of, 125. Arabian woman, description of one, 155. Argereene (Algerine), squadron, one in sght, 201. ship, chaces the Assistance, 211. 320 INDEX. Articles of peace between Tripoly and England^ 144. 219. 225. Asia Minor^ geographical account of, 102. Asphaltes, the Lake, 120, n. 57- " As like a Hermit abroad I walked"-— Song, 241. Assistance frigate, the, 3. Barbary, the Coast of, 28. 44. Barber, Capt. James, 50. Bay of Biscay, 25. Beads and crosses from Jerusalem, 97, n. 50. Berry, Mr. Nathaniel, 118. Bill of fare of an entertainment at Aleppo, 162. Billingsgate, arrival at, on return from second voyage, 28tli June, 1679, 307- Birds, numbers of them at sea, 215. Black IMonday at sea, 20, n, 11. 43. Boatswain, the funeral of one, 100. Breach of articles by the Tripoleans, 225. Bristol, His Majesty's ship, Teonge appointed Chaplain to her, 233. — — , the Chaplain joins her at Gravesend for his second voyage, 235. Browne, Capt., 165, n, 63. Buoy of the Nore, 5. Burial places near Aleppo, 178. 180. 182. Byland Mountains, the, 185. Cadi, account of one at Aleppo, 169. . Cales (Cadiz,) arrival off, 208. 301. Candia, notice of, 79. 128. Cape Carthage, notice of, 44. Caravan to Aleppo, account of one, 153. ■ from Mecca, 163. Carrier pigeons, account of them, 94, n. 48. 113, n. 55. Carter, Capt. Richard, 287, n. 89. Ceremonies at the creation of a Knight of the Malhue, or Valley of Salt, 167, n. 64. I INDEX. 321 Charles II., his rapid walk, 232, w. 73. , salutes in honour of his birth- day, 304. Charles the Proud, Duke of Somerset, anecdote of his travelling arrangements, 231, n. 72. Christmas-day, its observance at sea, 127- Church at Saline, account of it, 147- Coach waggon, 229, n. 72. Council of war, 67- Country, Capt., 59, n. 35. Custom of the Deal housewives, 10, n. 8. Cyprus, account of the Island of, 81. 88. 146. — — , its surrender to the Venetians, 87:. w. 45. I "■ ! , conquest of, by the Turks^ 88, n. 46. Danby Lord, notice of, 233, n. 74. Daniel, Capt. Charles, his hospitality at Tangier, 32. Dartmouth pinnace taken by the Corsairs, 99. Dead Sea, the, 120. 121, w. 57- Deal Beach, notice of, 10. Death watch, the, 37, n. 23. Decorations of the church at Saline, 147- Departure from Aleppo, Teonge's, prevented, 167- of the Alopeans from the English squadron, 200. Deptford, Teonge's arrival at, on his return from the first voyage, 218. Dickenson, Capt. Richard, 264, n. 84. Difficulties, the Chaplain's, in providing sea stock, 3. Dinner, a famous one at Scanderoon, 96. Dover castle and town, 13, 14. Downes, the, 7- Dutchmen, affair of two, at Aleppo, 160. 163. Dutch vessel, tardy submission of one, in the narrow seaSj 15. Earnly, Sir John, 282, n. 88. Egypt, a geographical account of, 190. " England, adue I"— Song, 259. English, naval supremacy of the, 16, w. 10. Y 322 INDEX. Entertainments at Aleppo^ 158. 166. Ephraim^ the river of, 156. Epitaph on Capt. Langston, 292. , Lieutenant New, 281. Escape of an Irish Algerine captive, 280. ' the Tripolean squadron, 67* Essex, retreat of the Earl of, 24, n. 14. Fair on the quarter deck, 41. 240. 269. Falmouth Road, arrival in, 216. Famagusta, the city of, 149, n. 62. Farewell visits at Aleppo, 166. 172. Feasts given to the officers of the squadron, 27- 199. Finch, Sir John, ambassador at Constantinople, 171^ ^*« 65. Finisteare, the Island of, 287- Finisterre, Cape, 302. Fire flies, a swarm of them, 181, n. 67- First voyage, its commencement 20th May, 1675; ends 17th Nov. 1676. Fortescue, Capt., 244, n. 76. Fowler, Capt. Thomas, 53, n. 30. French ships, sight of them, and preparation for action, 21. Friar, account of one on board the Royal Oak, 286. Frigate, the Assistance, Teonge's first ship, 3. Gaw of Scanderoon, the, 93. 151. Geographical notice of Africa, 202 — Asia Minor, 102 — France, Spain, Africa, and Barbary, 35 — Italy, 42 — The Morea, 75— Greece, 76— Syria, 119— Egypt, 190. George Prince of Denmark, account of his journey from Windsor to Petworth, 230, n. 72. Goza, the Islands of, 78- 135. Grafton, notice of the first Duke of, 279, n. 87- Grampus, the, 26. 134. Grand master of Malta, the, 46, n. 26. Great Bashaw, the, 95. 151. Greece, geographical account of, 76. INDEX. 323 Greek clergy. 111, n. 54, Groats and twopences, 306, w. 92. Guybraltar (Gibraltar), notice of, 33, w. 22. Harman, Capt., 138, n. 60. Harris, Capt. William, 137, «• 59. Holmes, Sir John, 246, n. 77- Holy Island, the, 240. Hospital of the Knights of Malta, 47, n. 27- Hostile feelings of the English and French seamen, 197- Hot springs, account of two, 182, 3. Houghton, Lieutenant, 2, 72. 1. Houlding, Capt. William, 2, n. 2. Houses at Aleppo, description of several, 163. 5. Jarbees, dangerous rocks so called, 198. Intrigue of a Turkish lady at Aleppo, 174. Jonas's pillars, 115, n. 56. Journey from Scanderoon to Aleppo, 153. 157- Killegrew, Capt. 272, n. 85. King David, his Sword, 167- Knevet (Nevett), Capt. Thomas, 5, n. 5. Knights of Malta, notice of them, 48. of the Malhue, 167- Langston, Capt. Anthony, 227, n. 71. His death, 291. Larneca, account of, 148. Launch of a Brigantine at Malta, 139. Lent, the last day of, how kept at sea, 151. Lepanto, the Gulf of, 75. Lizard Point, accident off the, 259. " Loathe to Depart," 5, n. 4. Long Boat of the Bristol sent adrift, 243.— Lost, 269. Mahomet, account of him, 125, 6. Majorca, behaviour of the Viceroy, 290. 324 INDEX. Malhue, Order of the, 167. Maligo (Malaga), 36. Malta, notice of, 45. 132. 135. 196. Maltese, courtesy of the, 48. Marabott Wizards, 33, n. 21. Marriage Customs at Zante, 71;. 2. n. 37* ,^ at Aleppo, 156. 160. Mecca, arrival of Pilgrims from, 163. Memphis, or Cairo, 194. Mole of Tangiers, 29, n. 19. Monsters of Africa, 205, n. 69. Moors, their assault on Tangier, 294. 300. Mordaunt, Lord, notice of him, 261, n. 82. 266. Morea, the, 75. Mount Lebanon, view of, 150. Muestone, or Eddy stone, 25. Narborough, Sir John, 5b, n. 32. 137* New Year's Gift, a Poetical one, 129. New, Lieut, his Epitaph, 281. Niger, the River, notice of, 207* Nile, the River, account of its source and overflow, 192, 3. North, Capt., 95, n. 49. Oaths of Allegiance and Supremacy, Teonge takes them, 305. Odd Guns fired in Salutes, 14. '' O ! Ginnee was a bonny lass," 79. Old Saying of the Emperor Maximilian, 42. Orlando's Gap, a tradition, 40. Paget, Lord, 99, w. 51. Palestine, account of, 119. 125. Parting Scene in the Downs, 13. Passages of the Red Sea, 190, n. 68. Peace, Articles of, signed by the Tripoleans, 144. Pelicans, an account of them, 16] . Petts, Capt. 263, n. 83. INDEX. 325 Pigeon Carriers^ 94, n. 48. 112, n. 55. Plains of Sodom and Gomorrha, 120, 1. Plymouth, the Roadstead and Castle, 23. Poetry, various specimens of the Chaplain's, 2. 7- 25. 29. 40. 41. 51. 63. 69. 73. 79. 129. 134. 241. 248. 256. 259. 281. 292. Poetical relation of a Combat with a Tripolean vessel on the 28th August, 1675, 63. — — relation of some passages at Zante respecting Wines, 72. Political relations with France and Holland, 21, n. 12. Poole, Sir WiUiam, 278, n. 86. Portuguese, their hostility, 212. 213, n. 70. Port Caesar, 273, n. 79. PuUeare, Capt. 257, n.Ql. Punch, noticed by the Chaplain as a strange beverage, 4, w. 3. Punishments, naval, 18, n. 11. 20, n. 75. 135. 250. 254. Pyramids, the, 194. Red Sea, the, 119. Remarkable things at Scanderoon, 112. Reports of the Popish Plot, 303. Resuscitation of a drowned man at Deal, 8. Rhodes, the Isle of, 129. Rochetta Bay, 295. Rock of Lisbon, arrival off the, 211. Rocky Mountains, 157. 182. Roomecoyle, Capt., 296, n. 90. Rose, John, a Seaman, drowned, 243. Royal Oak, the, Teonge removed to that ship, 277- Ruins of Carthage, 44. of Troy, 103. 104, n, 52. near Scanderoon, 116. on the road to Aleppo, 157. 179. Sailing orders of Capt. Houlding, 1 L ; of Sir John Narborough, 55. 326 index:. Saline^ the Bay of, 146. Salutesj navalj 6. 14^ n. 9. 16^ n, 10. Sandown castle^ 9, n. 7- Saying of the Emperor Maximilian^ 41. Scanderoon, 69. 91, n. 47- 109. 150. 186. Sea life;, its advantages,, 17- Second voyage,, its commencement, 227- Seraglio, Teonge's visit to the, at Aleppo, 171. Serpent, a formidable one, 183. Sham fight, account of one, 284. Sheerness, 217- 306. Shovel, Sir Cloudesley, 296, m. 91. Shrove Tuesday, its observance by the Spaniards, 281. Silk stone of Cyprus, 82, n. 40. Slaves, escape of several from Tripoly, 60. Songs, 63. 73. 79. 241. 248. 256. 259. Spaniards, several visit the Royal Oak, 280. Spanish Hogs, sea sick, 270. Squadron, division of the, 68. St. George's day, its observance, 152. church at Scanderoon, 110. 113. Storm, a great one, 118. 195. 201. 209, n. 80. 254. Stout, Capt., 58. 59, n. 34. Straights of Cilicia, 107- Strickland, Sir Roger, 56. 57, n. 33. Superstition of the Chaplain, 37. n. 23. 141, «. 61. 187. Sjria, geographical notice of it, 119. Tangier, account of, 29, n. 19. 202. Temple, Capt., 54, n. 31. Terra Sigillata, account of, 83, n. 41. '^ Though the Fates have ordayned" — Song, 248. Toogood, Mr., his funeral at Port Mahon, 277* Travelling equipment, the Chaplain's, 1. Tripoli, 51. 52. 141, 2. 203. ■ . Vicha, 65, n. 36. Tripoleans attacked in their harbour, 135. INDEX. 327 Troops sent to Ostend, 234^ ?/. 75. TroV:, account of its ruinS;, 103;, 4, n. 52. TuniS;, the King and Queen of, 142. Turks, barbarity of their punishments;, 107j n. 53. ;, instance of their aversion to cut off beards, 160^ 1. Twelfth-night, its observance at sea, 130. Valley of Salt near Aleppo, 169, n. 64. Unlucky adventure at Scanderoon, 92, 3. Votive offerings in St. George's church, 114. Water spouts, account of them, 92. Wettwand, Capt., 53, n. 29. '' When Phoebus did this morning first appear" — Acrostic,129. " When Phillis first I saw your face" — Song, 256. Women sent on shore at Dover, 14. Zante, the Island of, 70, 1, 2. n. 37. 130. LONDON: PRINTED BY S. AND R. BENTLEY, DORSET STREET. "'^. M LB^/lr'05