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 By W.H^in^o 5^ J.Horace Lytle^ 
 
 A reasonably complete treatise on the care, 
 raising, training, and handling of the AIRE- 
 DALE TERRIER from puppyhood to full 
 growth. This is compiled from actual experi- 
 ences as proven successful in the raising 
 of the famous strain of Oorang Airedales 
 at the Oorang Kennels of LaRue, Ohio. 
 
 Tsl\e Largest Jireeders 
 
 [Q KENNELS 
 
 LaRUE^HIO 
 
^^^^ 
 
 \y 
 
 
 Copyright, 1917. 
 
 by 
 
 W. H. LINGO 
 
 LaRue, Ohio 
 
 APR 16 1917 
 
 PRICE PER COPY, FIFTY CENTS 
 
 >CI.A459933 
 1^ f , 
 
GENERAL INFORMATION 
 
 ALL Oorang Airedale puppies are shipped crated in light but 
 secure pine boxes and with sufficient food to carry them 
 through to their destination. We Guarantee Safe Arrival at 
 any point within the United States. This Guarantee means that 
 should any accident occur in transit, we will promptly ship another 
 pup to you. In such case we collect from the Express company — 
 but you have no responsibility in the matter at all. You get another 
 pup at once. We deliver all dogs at the express office here, and make 
 live stock contract with the Agent, in your name, and secure the 
 lowest possible rate. 
 
 When you receive your pup be sure to examine it carefully in the 
 presence of the Express Man and call his attention to anything you 
 find wrong with either the crate or the pup. Our pups are always 
 shipped from LaRue in the very best of condition and will reach 
 their destination in good shape when given proper care and atten- 
 tion by the Express company. Let us hear from you when the pup 
 arrives. 
 
 When you take your pup home give it a good bath, using either 
 Ivory or some good dog soap, lather freely and rub well into the skin. 
 Then cleanse with clear water and give "rub-dry" with a rough 
 towel; and make very sure that the pup is not exposed to the cold 
 before being thoroughly dry. 
 
 Oorang pups are all hearty and strong; but they are farm raised and, 
 therefore, are not guaranteed to be flea proof. So do not be alarmed 
 if he scratches; treat any sore spots with vaseline. The lather of 
 the soap will kill all parasites. 
 
 Oorang pups are thoroughly wormed when six weeks old ; but should 
 be given another treatment at about the age of three months. Any 
 signs of constipation should be remedied by giving a tablespoonful 
 of castor-oil. Oorang pups have been raised and kenneled out-doors, 
 so do not be afraid to give plenty of exercise and fresh air. Cor- 
 respond with us at any time for any special information that j^ou 
 require or desire. 
 
 When your pup arrives do not expect him to look like a matured 
 Airedale. He will not. Airedales change more with maturity than 
 almost any other breed. The pup's coat will be short; and his head 
 will be broad and short. As he grows older, his coat will become 
 longer and more wiry, and the tan coloring will begin to extend 
 upward until finally the head, ears and legs become nearly all tan; 
 and the shoulders and thighs will also become tan color up to the 
 point of joining the body. As the pup's head becomes more pro- 
 portioned with maturity his fore face will lengthen and straighten, 
 and should also become whiskered by the time the pup is around 
 eight months of age. 
 
 A trait largely peculiar to Airedales, is the fact that puppies are 
 often inclined to timidness, thay may be particularly shy even with 
 
YOUR AIREDALE 
 
 their masters, and yet will outgrow this disposition after they become 
 older. An Airedale may often retain this shjoiess or apparent timid- 
 ness, until after he is past his first year of age, which, we must confess, 
 is a unique trait in a dog of such inherent gameness — though we 
 must remind you right here that an Airedale will very seldom ever 
 give you trouble from starting a quarrel. Yet in the case of an 
 Airedale, even the most timid of pups develop with maturity into 
 the very best and bravest of game killers, exhibiting quite a reversal 
 of form, an early indication of shyness during puppyhood. Do not 
 be discouraged if your pup is even hard to train to come when you 
 call him, although timidness to such an extreme as this is unusual. 
 However, should your pup be as shy as this, we might suggest that 
 you try chaining him up for several days in a location where there 
 may be persons passing continually, particularly strangers, and 
 where there may even be a certain amount of noise and confusion. 
 Even though this process may accentuate his shyness for a day or 
 so, he will soon become more and more accustomed to the things 
 that he sees and hears around him, and will gradually develop a 
 more sturdy disposition. 
 
 Patiently and carefully work towards helping your puppy develop 3 
 confidence in himself and in his surroundings. Should he become 
 frightened, do not abuse him, but patiently encourage him and show 
 him that his fears are unfounded and unnecessary. It will be bad 
 for your pup if you confine him too much; likewise it will be equally 
 bad if you allow him too much liberty, as the latter may encourage 
 him in the habit of becoming a tramp. 
 
 FEEDING 
 
 One thing to which you should give special attention is the feeding 
 of your puppy; and we have found that, where there are but one or 
 two puppies to a household, the best food for them is the scraps from 
 the table, with a few exceptions. Do not feed your pup chicken 
 bones, as these are so small, brittle and treacherous for a young dog 
 to handle, that they are very likely to pierce the walls of the intes- 
 tines. Also do not feed a young pup potatoes, as potatoes are a 
 food not easily digested by a dog's stomach. However, all other 
 forms of vegetables, soups, gra,vies, etc., are good for your puppy. 
 Oatmeal is good. The Soy bean is good. Mush is good for him. 
 An especially good puppy food is to make a mush with a meat soup 
 flavor. It is well to give the pup butter milk and sour milk from 
 time to time, as these will help to keep down the worms. Of course, 
 we want all of our patrons to feel free to call upon us at any time for 
 any special information that they may feel necessary in order to 
 help them raise their pups into that splendid mature specimen that 
 is our hope and theirs for him to become. 
 
 When you feed your pup soups, gravies, mush or broth from boiled 
 meat and mutton, be sure to let it cool before giving it to the pup. 
 Never give a pup too much milk to drink. To the novice this may 
 sound like strange advice — but most puppies are fed entirely too 
 much milk, so be very careful to feed your pup only a reasonably 
 limited amount. Pasteurized canned milk is a very good food for 
 dogs, particularly if somewhat thinned with about a third part of 
 
/?»WHLINGOin'i r 
 
 J IIOR \CE I Y'l LI. '^ 
 
 lukewarm water. Always bear in mind that one of the worst things 
 you can do is to give the puppy too much to eat. This is a common 
 fault with owners of only one or two pups. Of course, you must 
 always feed a sufficient amount — but it is better to always have 
 your pup wiUing and even anxious to eat more than you give him. 
 If he ever leaves uneaten food in the pan, the chances are you have 
 fed him entirely too much — a dangerous thing to do. 
 A puppy from two to four months of age had better be fed about 
 five times a day — but not too much at any one time — instead of 
 overloading him in a fewer number of meals. This plan gives him 
 a longer time to develop smaller quantities of food as they are given. 
 Between the age of four to seven months, it may be well to feed four 
 times a day; and from seven months to maturity feed three times a 
 day. Be sure and feed at regular hours— and do not give the pup 
 any food between his meals. Some persons feed a fully mature dog 
 twice a day, morning and evening; but a great many authorities 
 feel that a full grown dog, particularly if he has much freedom, and 
 is thus able to forage for himself to some extent, needs but one regu- 
 lar meal a day, preferably in the evening. 
 
 EXERCISE 
 
 While a grown dog may not get enough exercise for his own good if 
 he is permitted to lie around the house, never worry about whether 
 your puppy is getting all that he needs in this respect. A puppy by 
 nature is playful — and is continually at play of one sort or another. 
 This play is exercise — good hard exercise — and all that he needs. 
 Don't get the mistaken idea that you should give a growing pup 
 long, hard or fast runs, or even such strenuous tramps following you 
 on a long walk that he becomes exhausted. Never force a pup to 
 unnecessary, unusual or violent exercises before his eating time; and 
 allow him the full freedom of his natural desire to indulge m, at 
 least, a short rest after feeding. In short, you have httle reason to 
 worry about vour pup on the score of exercise, provided he is not 
 penned up in "some such enclosure that does not even permit of his 
 having a chance to play. 
 
 YOUR DOG AND POULTRY 
 
 Some dogs naturallv love to chase or kill chickens or other poultry ; 
 while to others this desire does not seem to come naturally. The 
 writer has known dogs that would kill every duck on sight and glory 
 in doing so, despite continued punishment — and yet many of these 
 same dogs would never think of bothering a chicken. These ten- 
 dencies of mature dogs are often largely due to early training, or 
 lack of training, and the thing to do is to begin while your puppy is 
 young and not permit him at any time to indulge himself in the 
 chasing of chickens or other poultry. The great trouble in many 
 cases is that an owner will i)ermit a pup to chase chickens once or 
 twice just for the fun of it, while the pup is still very young, and 
 they expect later to break the dog of the habit. This is a very bad 
 plan— and the thing to do is to start right in from the beginning and 
 never encourage — but always discourage — any evidenced tendency 
 
YOUR AIREDALE 
 
 on the part of your pup to chase poultry. If you once let a dog 
 get the poultry killing habit, you will have some jiroblem on your 
 hands; but it will not boa very serious matter if you start right in 
 at the very beginning to prevent the dog from such a habit. If the 
 tendency starts to get the better of you and if a few severe whippings 
 does not tend to correct the evil, we might mention the following 
 plans which are recommended by some dog authorities. If the dog 
 has killed a chicken, take this chicken that he has killed and fasten 
 it securely to the dog's collar and leave it there for a number of days. 
 While this treatment is going on, see that the dog is often in the 
 midst of live poultry, and authorities claim that in most cases this 
 may bring about, at least, a temporary cure. In other words, the 
 dog gets his fill of chickens after he has been lugging around a nine 
 or ten pound, dead rooster, suspended from his neck for a couple of 
 weeks. But, it is our opinion, that the best way to cure an Airedale 
 from killing poultry, is to begin right with your puppy when he is 
 very young and don't let him make the mistake in the beginning of 
 even getting started with the gratification of any natural tendency 
 in this direction. 
 
 It is not often likely that a grown Airedale will take kindly to a 
 strange cat, as the Airedale is a terrier and cats are almost univer- 
 sally one of the terriers' enemies. However, if you have a cat in 
 your familty and bring up your pup with that cat, your Airedale will 
 not only never molest the cat himself, but he will, at all times, 
 protect it from intruding dogs. Yet, you may not be surprised if 
 your own Airedale is, himself, an enemy to strange and stray cats. 
 
 WHERE YOUR PUP SLEEPS 
 
 Your pup should have a clean, warm, dry and sanitary place to 
 sleep. If he sleeps on sawdust or straw, be sure that this is changed 
 and kept fresh for him at least once every week. An improvised 
 kennel can be made from a barrel and will be found to be one of the 
 best sleeping quarters that a pup could have. A barrel retains the 
 heat from the dog's body in good measure, and it is almost impossible 
 for drafts to penetrate. It is a very simple matter to so secure the 
 barrel that it will not roll when turned over on its side, which is its 
 proper position for a kennel— and, of course, with but one end 
 knocked out. It would be well to use a little powdered sulphur in 
 the barrel before bedding it down with fresh straw or sawdust. 
 When the weather is cold, hang some sort of a heavy curtain over 
 the opening of the barrel to keep out the wind, but, so that the pup 
 may pass in and out, do not tack the flap of the curtain at the bottom. 
 
 THE EARS 
 
 It is important that you should give special attention to your pup's 
 ears, particularly while he is very young and during the period 
 while his ears are developing. As your pup grows and his skull gets 
 larger, the set of the ears begins to develop more certainly, and at 
 around four months old you may expect to see them begin to push 
 forward into coirect position. At about this age of the pup, do not 
 be surprised or discouraged if one ear takes its proper position 
 
By W H. LINGO and 
 
 J HORACE J; Y I r E 
 
 before the other one, while the other ear still droops. Very soon 
 you will find that the muscles of the drooping ear will also develop 
 enough to hold it up and forward too, and then the pup will carry 
 both ears well up and in place. It may sometimes — ^but not very 
 often — be advisable to assist the pup with the drooping ear by using 
 a little surgical plaster to assist the weak muscle. But never try to 
 urge the ear forward while you have this plaster on. Keep up these 
 plaster strips for a week or so and then see if the muscle is not 
 strengthened enough to hold the ear in place without further help. 
 It is not often that it will require more than a week or so to accom- 
 plish this result — and, in fact, it is not often that the plaster itself, 
 needs to be used at all. However, the point that we want to make 
 clear is that the ears and their growth during puppyhood should be 
 watched carefully and given attention, if necessary. 
 
 YOUR FRIEND 
 
 You will never have a better friend than your Airedale, and the time 
 to start to develop this friendship is when your puppy is young. 
 Play with him whenever you have an opportunity, whether it be 
 indoors or out. Take him walking with you w^hen you can con- 
 veniently do so. You will find that this will not only bind you and 
 the dog into a close comradeship, but you will also find that being in 
 company with you will tend to develop the different traits that the 
 dog may have, and he will become more valuable to you in many 
 ways from learning to know what you want and what you expect of 
 him. An Airedale is naturally such an intelligent dog that no one 
 ought ever to even think of confining him to solitary kennel existence. 
 An Airedale is an appreciative animal and will show you this in 
 many ways — and one of the things that he appreciates most of all 
 is friendship ; particularly if the friendship be that of his master. 
 
 IS HE HOUSE BROKEN? 
 
 Of course, when your Oorang puppy comes to you he will not be 
 house broken, as Oorang Airedales are all farm raised in the open. 
 It is not a difficult matter, however, for an Airedale to soon become 
 house broken. One good way to accomplish the desired result is by 
 first training your pup to a collar and lead (and this is something 
 that you ought to do anyhow.) When he is about three months old, 
 you can fit a collar on him, but always be sure with the puppy that 
 you watch the collar every two or three days to see that it has not 
 become too tight. One of the most serious things you could do 
 would be to put a collar on a puppy and then forget to watch it for 
 a certain time — for puppies will grow rapidly and serious damage 
 may easily result when his neck gets too large for the collar. The 
 best collar for an Airedale is usually a round (or rolled one.) A flat 
 collar interferes with the proper development of the coat on his 
 neck. After getting the proper collar, also secure a light lead, pre- 
 ferably of aluminum, and gradually accustom the puppy to collar 
 and lead. One or two lessons ought to be sufficient for this purpose. 
 If a pup is a bit timid or shy, do not lose your temper, but be 
 patient with him and even pet him. 
 
YOUR AIREDALE 
 
 Now then, wlicn you liavc your |)Ui)|)y act-uslomed (o the load, that 
 will otfor one of the best means of traininjz; him to become house 
 broken. Keep him on tlie lead when he is in the house, and when 
 you leave him in the house, tie him, if possible, and this keeping of 
 the puppy under restraint while he is in the house will tend to make 
 him associate with coming indoors a realization of the fact that the 
 house is not supposed to be a i)uppy's play-ground and pillows and 
 rugs were not made merely for puppies to play with and pull apart. 
 However, you will of course realize that the puppy should be taken 
 out of doors frequently, and each time release him from the lead, so 
 that you will fix in his mind the idea that indoors means restraint, 
 while in like manner he associates the outdoors with entire freedom. 
 By careful treatment, and intelligent treatment, it will be surprising 
 to you how quickly your puppy will come to form neat and clean 
 habits in a way that will surprise you. 
 
 THE PUP'S EDUCATION 
 
 The first thing you want your pup to do is to mind you; and the way 
 to educate an Airedale to the habit of obedience is by kindness, 
 supplemented by holding out to him the hope of reward. By this 
 method, supplemented by an Airedale's natural intelligence, your 
 dog will develop along most any lines you desire him to do. Nat- 
 urally your dog must have confidence in you — but before he will 
 have this confidence, remember that you must merit it. In other 
 words, you must earn his confidence, as the result of the way you 
 treat him and continue to treat him. 
 
 A httle careful, judicious and continuous care on your part — and you 
 will not have a great deal of difficulty in teaching your dog to "lie 
 down" at your command. One thing you must always remember 
 in training your pup, is the fact that you must make an effort to 
 SHOW HIM what is wanted. When you are teaching him to 
 "lie down" at command, a good way to do is to gently, yet firmly 
 push down on his back until he does lie down and understands what 
 you mean by the command. Then, if necessary, carefully hold him 
 in that position a short while; after which release the hold and give 
 him the command to "get up." He will soon learn to obey you and 
 understand the commands, and you should keep encouraging him 
 by patting him when he is obedient and also regarding said obedience 
 with some little delicacy that he likes to eat. Do not give him too 
 many lessons at one time, as the best results are to be secured from 
 oft-repeated lessons in which you are trying to train him to do. It 
 is bad to keep up the training at one time so long that you tire the 
 pup or cause him to become decidedly discontented. Training a 
 dog is always a valuable lesson for any man — qualify in having 
 l)atience. It will be good for you to work with your dog — if you 
 develop patience and control by so doing. It is not an easy thing 
 to train a dog, or any other animal in fact — and in some cases it 
 often seems to be a discouragingly thankless task. But a little 
 kindness and perseverance will enable you to work wonders with an 
 Airedale. There are many things that you will want to teach your 
 dog, such as to walk up close at your heels when you desire — or to 
 "heel" as it is generally called. This command will be taught by 
 
By W. H. LINGO and 
 J HOR4CE LYTLE 
 
 using the same methods of suggestion as in the case of teaching the 
 dog to he down. Then when you say "on, boy," teach him to 
 associate this command with entire freedom to run, hunt, or what- 
 ever it is the intention that he shall do. Before he gets entirely 
 accustomed to this command, and even after the preliminary train- 
 ing, a good plan is to wave your arm forward in the direction in which 
 you wish him to go, simultaneously with giving him the command 
 "on, boy." 
 
 It is a nice and valuable thing to have your dog mind you at all 
 times and under any conditions, whether it be in the country, or in 
 the crowded city streets. But, particularly in the latter case it is 
 almost essential that your dog shall mind you immediately and 
 absolutely, as an assistance in preserving his life when he is crossing 
 a crowded street with you in the midst of motor cars, street cars and 
 other vehicles. The command of "heel" is a particularly valuable, 
 even necessary one for a dog that is to be much in the city. 
 Your dog need not be much over three months old before you begin 
 to school him along various lines, always remembering patience, and 
 being careful never to give him too much at once. The Airedale is 
 too intelhgent and also too sensitive to lend himself well to training 
 by any methods that may have proven successful in the case of other 
 breeds. Force will never accomplish your desired end with an 
 Airedale. But no dog, or any breed, trained by force will ever be 
 fully the equal of another dog of equal intelhgence, no matter what 
 the breed, if the latter dog be properly and thoroughly trained by 
 methods that have had kindness as a basis. Do not misunderstand 
 us — punishment may have, and often is, necessary. But it is just 
 as necessary that punishment be administered only in the proper 
 manner and always tempered by cool judgment. Too much punish- 
 ment under any circumstances, is bad — therefore if you must punish, 
 and when you must punish, do it well. Use a strap or a whip to 
 administer your punishment — never grab a club or anything that 
 might injure your dog or beat too severe and brutal. Do not call 
 your dog to you when you are going to punish him — go to him. 
 You encourage disobedience in him if you call him to you when you 
 are going to punish him. 
 
 Naturally you will want your dog to come to you promptly when you 
 call him. It is a fine thing to have a dog that will come on the run 
 when you call him. A good way to train him to do this will be to 
 always call him with the same call or by the same whistle that you 
 use when you are going to feed him. This will cause him to get into 
 the habit of coming to you on the jump when you call. It is not 
 within the scope of this book to go into details covering the many 
 possible things that our customers may wish to train their pups to 
 do; but it is our intention to merely point the way and give you the 
 basic idea of proper training — and then, along the same general lines 
 as we have indicated for the few things we have covered, you can 
 train your Airedale to do practically anything that you want him 
 to do. 
 
 HUNTING 
 
 Many of our customers may want to train their dogs for hunting 
 purposes, and an Airedale lends himself remarkably well to training 
 
10 YOUR AIREDALE 
 
 as a hunter. An Airedale is unquestionably the best water dog as 
 has ever been discovered. They may often be trained to point 
 birds Uke a pointer or setter; they make splendid dogs to trail game 
 like a hound, whether they be foxes, rabbits or even big game in the 
 daytime, or coons and possums at night; they are unequalled as 
 retrievers for ducks, where their abiUties in the forest will outshine 
 the work of any other breed of dogs. When your pup is young, 
 you want to avoid allowing him any chance to become gun shy, as 
 you will appreciate without much discussion on our part, that the 
 time to prevent any bad traits is in the beginning before they get 
 started. Your Airedale will never become gun shy if you proceed 
 in the proper manner to accustom him to the sound of a gun. Don't 
 take a naturally timid puppy for the first time to a trap exhibition 
 and frighten him to death with a steady cannonade of shot gun fire, 
 and do not even go so far as to begin shooting off a gun around his 
 kennel at home, for then his sole attention will be attracted by the 
 shooting and this may frighten him from the fact that he has nothing 
 else to think about. To accustom a young dog to fire arms, the 
 thing to do is to know that his interest is abosrbed in some object 
 of the sport, so that the discharge of the gun is merely incidental and 
 he hardly notices it. Let your pup be interested in chasing a bird 
 or in trailing a rabbit, and incidentally shoot off a gun, his mind is 
 thus occupied — and there isn't one chance in a great many that he 
 will even notice the gun; and he will soon become unconsciously 
 entirely accustomed to fire arms. Of course, discharge the gun with 
 moderation in the beginning, and do not start a cannonade over your 
 dog even when he is interested in some game. The best plan is only 
 to shoot once or twice on each individual occasion for a while — 
 until finally success will reward your pains and you will find that no 
 amount of shooting will bother your dog, if you have observed our 
 instructions carefully. 
 
 TRAINING TO RETRIEVE 
 
 While, as we have explained, an Airedale is valuable in multitudinous 
 ways — still there is nothing that he takes to more naturally than re- 
 trieving. He is a born retriever. And you should not have any 
 great difficulty towards training him to perfection along this fine. 
 Many authorities claim that the best thing for lessons in retrieving 
 is a roll of cloth, bound with string, and wrapped to a size not much 
 larger than a quail. A ball is apt to be either too hard or too soft, 
 but a roll of cloth of cloth just answers the purpose. Do not be too 
 playful in teaching your dog to retrieve, or he will not take it serious- 
 ly enough himself, and will only obey your commands until he is 
 tired of the sport. It goes without saying that to be a valuable 
 retriever your dog must always take the thing seriously and be un- 
 conditionally obedient when you tell him to "fetch," or whatever 
 command you hit upon as being the one you will use when you want 
 him to bring something to you. 
 
 We do not recommend driUing your pup for more than fifteen min- 
 utes to a half hour each day in the beginning, and it would be just 
 as well to have him on the lead when you are giving him his initial 
 lessons. You should stand facing the same way that the dog 
 happens to be looking, and, try to interest him in the roll of cloth in 
 
By W. H. LINGO and -- 
 
 J HORACE LYTLE 11 
 
 your hand, toss it from you a short distance and see if he has an 
 inclination to go get it. If so, and many pups will — the lesson is 
 much simplified. Let him lead you to the roll of cloth, or other 
 object used, and in many cases he will pick it up and give it to you. 
 If he does not do this naturally, try to encourage him to do so. If 
 he wants to romp and play with it, be just a bit firm with him and 
 urge him to deUver it to you. Then toss it away again and repeat 
 the performance until you get him to be willing to deliver the object 
 to you voluntarily. Always reward him well when he performs well, 
 encourage him, pat him and speak to him. 
 
 If he does not naturally pick up the object and either wants to romp 
 with it or give it immediately to you, the lesson is not so simple for 
 you and training him will require careful patience on your part. 
 The thing to do in this case is to gently but firmly force open his 
 mouth with one hand and insert the object with the other hand, and 
 then gently but firmly hold his mouth closed on the object for a brief 
 period. Then, release your hold on his mouth, order him to give 
 the object to you — and praise him voluminously when he does so. 
 Patience, care, judgment and repeated practices will finally bring 
 you just reward in even the most extreme cases — but, we repeat, 
 an Airedale is a born retriever. 
 
 HUNTING AND KILLING 
 
 The sturdiness of an Airedale, his gameness, dexterity and activity, 
 his heavy coat, and his long, powerful jaw makes the Airedale a 
 deadly fighter — and a killer of his game. Many dogs are reasonably 
 good fighters — but an Airedale fights to kill; and he either does kill 
 or is himself killed in the attempt. Few dogs can punish like an 
 Airedale — and but few will dispatch their game so promptly. An 
 Airedale will kill, single handed, game that often requires, in the 
 case of other breeds, at least two dogs working together. We refer 
 particularly to such hard fighting game as the coon, badger, or wild 
 cat. There are mighty few Airedales that are not able alone to 
 dispatch such game even more quickly and decidedly as is usually 
 the case of two dogs working together. And yet, on the other hand, 
 even in the case of larger game, where the Airedale himself is not the 
 match for his prey, as in the case of a bear for example, his cleverness, 
 rapidity of action and dexterity is such that an encounter seldom 
 results fatally for him, as he keeps out of harm's way in a manner that 
 mighty few other dogs are able to do. 
 
 Starting with your puppy to train him to become a killer of game, 
 nothing is better than a rat for him to work on. When your pup is 
 from four to six months old, confine him in a compartment with a 
 rat — and have no fear that he will be able to take care of himself. 
 The youngster will soon become quick in his work of kiUing; and as 
 he increases his dexterity, and as he becomes more matured, you 
 may gradually increase the number of rats that you give him at one 
 time, until, when he becomes a full grown dog he will be able to take 
 care of himself and simply murder any quantity of rats that you 
 could box him up with. If you want him to become a killer, and 
 have no scruples about doing so, you might allow him to chase stray 
 
12 YOUR AIREDALE 
 
 cats. But. do not expect an Airedale of less than a year old to do 
 much heavy fighting unaided. After an Airedale is from a year to 
 eighteen months old, he is more than a match for most anything — 
 and will wilhngly and eagerly tackle anything that there is to be 
 tackled. But, as we have before stated, quite the reverse is true 
 until an Airedale reaches maturity. If you can hunt your pup on 
 coons with an experienced hunting dog, provided you do not start 
 him on such hunts when he is too young and not strong enough to 
 stand it, you will find that tliis actual experience will be a good way 
 to break Mm in. But do not turn a pup Airedale loose on a full 
 grown one. Better let the other dog kill the coon, or almost do so, 
 before you let the pup jump in and take a hold of him. But be sure 
 that you do let the pup jump in and get his full taste of blood at the 
 proper time, and when there is no chance of his experiencing a good 
 licking while he is still nothing but a youngster. 
 
 An Airedale is today the most popular dog for the hunting of big 
 game; and an Airedale that has been hunted on any sort of game will 
 take naturally to hunting larger game when the opportunity is 
 given him. If you are not, yovu'self, in a big game country, it is 
 often possible to find some reliable hunter who will take your dog 
 and train and work him on big game for you at very reasonable 
 expense. But a word of caution must be injected here — for the 
 height of folly would be to send your dog away to someone whom 
 you are not previously positively sure of. We, at LaRue, are 
 usually in touch with a few persons around the country who are 
 reliable big game hunters and to whom it would be perfectly safe 
 for you to entrust your dog for training. We will always be glad to 
 advise with our customers on this point, as on all others, if they will 
 communicate with us. 
 
 WORK ON THE FARM 
 
 Not all persons have equal ability to train a dog to do what they 
 want him to do; but the ability to handle and develop a dog may be 
 learned by careful attention and study of this interesting art — for 
 it is an art. Dogs on farms may be valuable in many cases, most of 
 which comes natural to an Airedale, but this article will deal with 
 training your dog to become a good shepherd or cattle dog, as apti- 
 tude for this work is something that must be developed. Although 
 many farms have dogs of Collie blood, nevertheless a really well 
 trained and valuable cattle or sheep dog is somewhat more of a 
 rarity than ought to be the case. There are several breeds of dogs 
 that can successfully be developed into working stock on a farm, 
 and one breed that lends itseh well to this sort of training is the 
 Airedale. 
 
 To train your dog to successfully work sheep or cattle on a farm, 
 the best time to start the lessons is while the dog is still a puppy. 
 Older dogs are often developed for the work — but their training is 
 never quite so easy as when you start his work on this fine while he 
 is still a puppy and susceptible to a proper direction of his habits. 
 We have already spoken earlier in this book of the elementary 
 lessons of obedience, and of course, these should be thoroughly 
 
57/WHIINGOan(i -,o 
 
 J U () R \ C r L \ T LF 16 
 
 mastered before proceeding to the higher stages of development and 
 training for a different purpose. 
 
 When your pup is about ten months old, and has gotten so that he 
 will obey you in all elementary commands, take him with you every 
 day when you go out with the stock, and familiarize him gradually 
 with the work about the different animals, both out on the farm, in 
 the barns, etc. Of course, exerci.se great care your pup does not 
 develop a tendency to nervously run and jump about, or after any of 
 the animals that it is your intention he should develop himself in 
 learning to take care of. Allow us to say at this point, however, 
 that before you can expect a dog to successfully drive cattle, those 
 same cattle must first be accustomed to being driven by men — for 
 if this is not the case, it is hopeless to expect a dog to accomplish 
 what a man has not first been able to accomphsh. A dog can only 
 be taught to do something that he has first seen you do. Therefore 
 any stock must first be handled by you, before the dog can ever learn 
 to do so. Thus it will be seen that a proper discipline of your stock 
 is equally important with the training of the dog. 
 
 When you first take the dog out with you, the best plan is to keep 
 him right with you, and do all of the driving yourself, curbing in the 
 early stages any tendency he may have to assist you — in other 
 words, his learning must come from seeing what you do and following 
 your example. Thus he will gradually learn from you what you do — - 
 and the day will come when he can and will, do these same things 
 successfully himself. Let us at this point again inject a word as to 
 the need of patience on your part, for you must remember that the 
 training will only be gradually accomplished, and you must not 
 expect any dog to become a first-class stock driver in a day, or a 
 week, or even a month. It takes time — and for you to be success- 
 ful in properly developing your dog, you must always remember 
 that it takes time. It is the writer's belief that you may develop 
 your own expressions that you will use when you want him to go on, 
 or come to you, or stop or be careful, etc., etc. It will also be pos- 
 sible for you to teach your dog the names of the various kinds of 
 stock that he is to handle, so that he will know what you are referring 
 to when you say "cows, sheep, etc." When he first begins to show 
 proficience, should he ever bring you the wrong animals, go back with 
 him to take them where he found them; and then get the right ones. 
 But patience again — be careful that you do not discourage the dog 
 by even a suggestion of harsh treatment when he has made an 
 honest mistake — for you are very apt to spoil him right here if you 
 do not remember this word of caution. 
 
 Of course, from the beginning you will guard against any tendency 
 of the dog to injure stock from over enthusiasm in snapping at 
 their heels, from allowing him to drive them too rapidly, etc. A 
 good dog is always an ideal companion — but too much praise cannot 
 be given for the value of a well trained dog on a farm. He will 
 accomplish more with stock than three men could do. In the older 
 countries of Europe a sheep and cattle dog is really taken very 
 seriously, and in those countries he has been developed to real value. 
 There is too prevalent a tendency in America not to take the stock 
 dog sufficiently seriously. We urge you not to make this mistake — 
 
14 YOUR AIREDALE 
 
 if you would expect to have a truly valuable worker, as it is possible 
 for you to have if you go about training him at a task worth while — 
 as they have found it to be worth while in England, Scotland, 
 France and other countries of the whole world. We hope to see the 
 time when there will be held in this country Trials for sheep and 
 cattle dogs, as they are held in the old countries today, and as we in 
 America hold trials for our bird dogs and hounds. There is no 
 reason in the world why this splendid idea should not be encouraged, 
 developed and materialized into an actuahty. Although attempts 
 toward this have not thus far been very encouraging in America, 
 the time should come, and we hope soon will, when Trials for sheep 
 and cattle dogs will be as possible as Trials are today for bird dogs 
 and hounds. Cups and prizes should be offered for annual compe- 
 tition — -and if properly worked out, the keenest possible interest 
 should be taken in competition in these sheep and cattle dog Trials, 
 not only among the contenders, but among large crowds of eager, 
 interested spectators as well — as is the case in England and some 
 other countries. The work of the well trained sheep or cattle dog 
 is just as valuable and just as interesting (or even more so), as the 
 work of the bird dog or the hound. 
 
 SHOWING YOUR AIREDALE 
 
 When your pup becomes about six or seven months old, you may 
 find that he is developing into such an apparently perfect specimen 
 that you may decide to take him in hand and prepare him for the 
 Show ring. The object of the following paragraphs is to assist 
 owners of our Oorang Airedales to learn the fundamentals of pro- 
 perly training and showing a dog in order to increase the chances of 
 being successful. 
 
 If you have not groomed your dog well and regularly, his coat is apt 
 to be in a rough condition, and all this outer coat should be taken off, 
 down to the inner coat, before your chances of winning will be great 
 if you are to Show your dog. The thing to do is to pull out the outer 
 coat by using the fingers and thumb, and then when the outer coat 
 grows out again, it will be an entire new coat of an even length and 
 age. You will not hurt the dog at all by pulling out his outer coat 
 as we have suggested, as it will be done very easily. It will require 
 two months or longer to grow a perfect new coat; although a soft 
 coated dog may do so in only a few weeks time from the fact that 
 a soft coat grows much more rapidly than a hard and wiry one. 
 
 Every day the dog should be well groomed or combed, with a fine 
 steel comb, so as to take away all the soft hair. After which combing 
 he should be well brushed with a good hard brush, finishing the 
 grooming by a good rub-down with hound gloves for at least five 
 minutes. The dog's coat will then lie close and dense, and will have 
 a sort of polish to it. If you keep up this ojieration with regularity, 
 be sure that the old coat is picked out thoroughly, you will find that 
 a dog with a good naturally wiry coat can be kept in perfect Show 
 ring condition all during the year. On the other hand, a dog that 
 does not possess a natin-ally good coat should be stripped again a 
 few weeks later, for the coat will soon grow too long and shaggy. 
 Of course, if your dog does not have a good coat naturally, it is a 
 
ByW. H. hl^GOand .- 
 
 J^^^.^ I»!;,„2,„S,»- ,-,,-, ,-„—„,-„— 1,111. , 
 
 hard matter to give him a really good one artificially; but much may 
 be accompUshed along this line from following our suggestions re- 
 garding careful plucking and regular, systematic and conscientious 
 continued grooming, combing and brushing. 
 
 At least a month before the show, you should make absolutely sure 
 that the dog shows no suspicions of worms, and if he does, a good 
 worm medicine should be used at once. We merely repeat at this 
 point that we should be glad to have our customers keep in close 
 touch with us at any time for advice; and we refer you to the ad- 
 vertisements in the back of this booklet. An overuse of drugs or 
 medicines is bad for dogs, just as is the case with humans, and we do 
 not believe in stuffing a dog full of all sorts of medicines or drugs 
 while attempting to put him in Show condition. The proper diet, 
 enough exercise, and strict cleanliness — these form the key-note for 
 the greatest success. However, a teaspoonful of milk of sulphur in 
 the food about once a week may be recommended as good to keep 
 the blood in shape, free from skin disease, etc. 
 
 When training your dog for the show ring, give him a daily walk of 
 an hour or so on a long lead (in addition to the exercise he gets in the 
 ordinary course of events), and take him for this walk over a hard 
 surface, if possible, for this will tend to help keep his feet and nails 
 in shape. Furthermore, since in the show ring he will have to be 
 surrounded by other dogs, persons, etc., it will be just as well when 
 taking him for his walks to go in amongst traffic, other dogs and 
 people — thus accustoming him to such surroundings. If your dog 
 does not take kindly to the lead at first, patiently and carefully keep 
 at it until he does become entirely accustomed to it and satisfied 
 with it — for this is absolutely essential if a dog is to be successfully 
 shown. We might say here that even some of the best dogs are 
 naturally not good showers, which is a fact to be regretted; and a 
 puppy must be trained and broken to Showing, if you would have 
 him put himself off to the best advantage, just as he must be trained 
 for anything else, whether it would be hunting, driving stock or 
 what not. 
 
 With reasonable frequency, while you are training a dog for the 
 Show ring, accustom him to circhng about you on the lead, and en- 
 deavor to have him keep his head up, tail erect, and show lots of life 
 and fire and sparkle. A good way to get him to do this is to always 
 have a few pieces of something that he likes very much to eat in 
 your pocket, and give him these bits from time to time as a reward 
 when he carries himself proudly and in a becoming way such as you 
 desire. He will soon learn to associate these rewards with standing 
 spiritedly at attention, and it will not be a hard matter to get him 
 to show lots of spark and ginger whenever you put the lead on him 
 and begin circling about a small space with him. This is one of the 
 best things to remember when training your dog for the Show — for 
 that is exactly what he must do and how he must act when he must 
 arise to the supreme effort before the Judge in the ring. Often and 
 again the dog that shows the best will take the blue ribbon away from 
 a competitor who may be even a httle better in points — but who does 
 not conduct himself to the best advantage when before the Judge. 
 
36 YOUR AIREDALE 
 
 If it should be during the summer months that you are conditioning 
 your dog for the Show ring, never exercise him much during the 
 middle of the day; but select either the cool of the morning or even- 
 ing. The dog should be fed all foods that will make for good sub- 
 stantial muscle — and not just fat. Be careful not to overfeed him 
 but make the feeding light about three times daily, and regularly — • 
 and after exercise. Quite a good diet would be, say, a dry dog 
 biscuit for breakfast; a small amount of absolutely fresh, hashed 
 raw meat, lean, at noon; and at night dog biscuits or bread mixed 
 with vegetables and softened or shghtly soaked with a gravy 
 or broth. 
 
 Let us caution the novice never to show a dog unless he has first 
 been put in the pink of condition , and well schooled in how to Show, 
 for otherwise the dog may be defeated by a less valuable dog and 
 you become discouraged at the outset. Such a discouragement 
 might even cause you to foolishly part with your dog for an insig- 
 nificant sum to some observer who made note of his really valuable 
 natural characteristics and who knows that the proper sort of con- 
 ditions would cause your dog to win. A Judge, you know, must 
 judge the dogs on their appearance and performance before him in 
 the ring^ — without any consideration based on past performance or 
 other qualifications foreign to the one particularly showed at the 
 time. 
 
 A Judge may often (and we recommend it), show special considera- 
 tion for the novice and give him every opportunity to show his dog 
 to advantage; however, if you are a novice, and have a really good 
 dog, it will very likely pay you to arrange with a professional handler 
 to show him in the ring, at least until both you and the dog become 
 thoroughly accustomed to the Show ring and feel that you are able 
 to legitimately wield all that is coming to you without the assistance 
 of the professional handler. Watch all of the best handlers as they 
 are performing in the ring and you should soon come naturally and 
 almost subconsciously into the knack of it. A really competent 
 Judge is more than likely to be an entirely fair one, so we would not 
 advise you to annoy him by continually tagging along after him as 
 he examines the otlier dogs, and attempting to have him give special 
 notice to your dog by having him continually under the Judge's nose. 
 
 If you start for the show in another town and must use a railroad, 
 we recommend that it is the best not to feed the clog before you 
 start on the journey (of course, provided it is a short one); and we 
 would also advise that after returning home from the show, it is a 
 good idea to give the dog a dose of Epsom salts, as this will be very 
 beneficial after his inactivity from lying around at the Show for 
 several days. 
 
 It should go almost with saying that, before entering your dog in any 
 Show, you should register him with whatever Kennel Club is res- 
 ponsible for the Show. The charge for this is only $1 .00 and it will 
 be valuable to you in many ways to have the dog registered. The 
 addresses of the Kennel Clubs that you are most likely to wish to 
 register with, are the following : 
 
52/W.H.LINGOa/td 17 
 
 T TT n R A f ' F. T, \ T T, Fl 1 ' 
 
 J. HORACE L\TLE 
 
 American Kennel Club, 
 1 Liberty Street, 
 New York City. 
 
 Canadian Kennel Club, 
 Toronto Canada. 
 
 Field Dog Stud Book, 
 Masonic Temple, 
 Chicago, 111. 
 
 United Kennel Club, 
 Box 156, 
 Chicago, 111. 
 
 If any of our customers should desire more specific information on 
 the subject of Showing, and conditioning and handUng for and at 
 the shows, we should be glad, as in all cases, to have them correspond 
 direct with us here at LaRue, and it shall be our pleasure to give any 
 suggestions we can. 
 
 BREEDING YOUR FEMALE 
 
 Many breeders feel that they must breed their bitches to some 
 famous bench show Champion. Yet breeding, to be rightly done, 
 should be with a view to securing a combination of the strongest 
 points of the two specimens mated. Even a Champion may be 
 weaker in some points than a second rater. Now then, if your bitch 
 happens to be also weak in the verv same points as the Champion, 
 WHY MATE THESE TWO? Better mate her with the second 
 rater who is stronger than the Champion in those same points where 
 the bitch is also weak. This is one of the secrets of good breeding. 
 If you mate two dogs having the seKsame faults, the result is only 
 too likely to be that these faults will show up intensified in the off- 
 spring. The best breeders will always select a dog strong in those 
 points wherein the bitch may be weak. If his bitch has a rather 
 short head, then he selects a very long headed dog for her. If the 
 bitch has big, light eyes, she ought to be mated with a dog having 
 especially small, dark eyes. If she has a light colored, soft coat, 
 mate her with a dog having a good, wiry coat. If she is small of 
 bone, mate her with a dog having plenty of it — a big strong boned 
 specimen. 
 
 The general character of the dog's family should also be considered. 
 What tendencies have his or her ancesters had to a marked degree? 
 In other words, BREED TO CORRECT FAULTS. Not to ac- 
 centuate them. Also, of course, in addition to trying to breed 
 against the faults of either dog — breed to retain their good points. 
 The one is as important as the other. In this connection allow us 
 to say that we invite all those who purchase females from us to send 
 them to us for stud service, and we allow stud service at ono-half 
 (H) price to all bitches bought of us. What we feel is a good reason 
 for your taking advantage of this offer is the fact that of course we 
 know the blood lines and ancestry of both the bitch and our stud 
 dogs — hence can mate the bitch with this intimate knowledge at 
 hand, and along lines most likely to produce the best possible type 
 
18 YOUR AIREDALE 
 
 of the Oorane; strain. We are interested in developing Oorang Aire- 
 dales to a point of the highest possible perfection — and this applies 
 to all of the strain; it means that we are as interested that YOU 
 should breed perfect specimens of Oorangs, as that we should our- 
 selves here at LaRue. We are not only interested in your dog — 
 but in the pups of your dog as well. Thus it is our sincere hope 
 that as many of our customers as possible will avail themselves of 
 our offer to select the proper stud dog to best serve their bitches, 
 and to do so at one-half our regular stud fees. 
 
 The real breeder is not the fellow who can sign a check big enough 
 to buy the best dog of any breed ; but the real breeder is he who de- 
 rives his real and intense interest in studying the breed, and in de- 
 veloping it. Many people make a good living by breeding high 
 priced dogs, and this may be done by your own careful developing 
 process, if you but secure the right stock to begin with. You need 
 not invest too heavily in certain specimens — but gradually develop 
 and breed your own. That's where the fun comes in — and the real 
 profits as well. There is no hobby that will better pay a business 
 man — and give him at the same time large rewards for his efforts. 
 If you are fond of your dog, or dogs, they will take you into the open 
 air, long walks, plenty of good exercise — and you'll develop both 
 physically and in pocket-book. 
 
 If you have the right spirit and grit, you will work on and on, never 
 getting discouraged, keeping at it— until at last, bettering your 
 strain all the time, you will develop a winner. And your efforts 
 will not have been in vain. Under any circumstances, winner or no 
 winner, your time will have been well spent — and you will have 
 profited much. Airedales are profitable, if well bred and GOOD 
 ones, even though they never make Champions. The road to a 
 Championship, is, as you may know, a long and hard one. 
 
 Working towards success, first get the picture of the ideal Airedale 
 firmly in mind. KNOW what he must be. Attend the Shows. 
 Become acquainted. Next select your brood bitch. The best will 
 be far the cheapest in the end. She need not herself be a winner— 
 but should have in her veins the blood of winners. MORE WIN- 
 NERS HAVE BEEN BRED FROM SISTERS OF CHAMPION 
 BITCHES, THAN FROM THE CHAMPIONS THEMSELVES. 
 We do not pretend to be able to give the reason — but the fact 
 remains. Naturally, your brood bitch should be sound and healthy. 
 Better breed from a poor looking bitch with a good pedigree, than 
 from a better looking individual but one without the same blue 
 blood in her ancestry. 
 
 Your brood bitch should have no decidedly bad points. She should 
 be well balanced. Pay particular attention to Head, Ears, Legs, 
 Feet, Bone, Body and Coat. The Coat is not so particular as the 
 other points in the brood bitch, for this may be corrected very largely 
 in her off -spring by proper mating. Try, however, to secure a short, 
 wiry coat, smoother on the sides and legs, and while hard down the 
 back, having but little broken hair on the foreface. Avoid as a pest 
 breeding to or from types having a long hound ear, undershot mouth 
 or a hght eye. Don't let tendencies along these Unes come into 
 
By W. H. LINGO and ^r. 
 
 J. HORACE LYTLF. 19 
 
 your strain. Watch out for a stud dog that continues to produce 
 winners. Watch the characteristics of his pups. Tf the types of 
 his get seem to be such as would make a good combination with 
 your bitch, this may be the dog for you to breed to. 
 
 A httle inbreeding is required to preserve certain desired types, 
 traits or characteristics. Never inbreed closely. That, of course, 
 is very bad — always. Never breed a brother to a sister. Line- 
 breeding is the thing, and is a better term than inbreeding for pro- 
 perly developing a worthy strain of Airedales. Line-breeding is, 
 for example, where a dog's sire's sire and his dam's sire's sire are one 
 and the same. This sort of thing is not only permissible — it is a 
 good thing to develop different points of value in a certain strain. 
 
 Before you mate your bitch be sure she is in good working condition, 
 and better a httle towards lean than too fat. A healthy bitch will 
 usually come in season about every six months. When you see 
 indications that she is coming in, be sure to keep her by herself so 
 there will be no danger of outside or the wrong dogs getting to her. 
 From first to last the period usually lasts about three weeks. Bit- 
 ches vary greatly as to their wilhngness to allow a dog to approach 
 her. Usually the best time to mate her is when she shows bj^ her 
 actions that she desires the dog's presence ; or, in the cases where she 
 is shy and not inclined to show such desire at all, the time to mate 
 will be the first day after the colored discharge (which you will 
 notice), has dies away. If you are goijig to send her some distance 
 by rail, be sure to do so in plenty of time. There are many reasons 
 to recommend this. Usually ship her when she has been discharging 
 about four or five days. 
 
 If your bitch ever escapes and becomes associated with a mongrel, 
 do not destroy her as valueless for future breeding. Such is not the 
 case. The next time she comes in season breed her to the right 
 Stud you select — and the previous accident w^ll have no bearing at 
 all on the newly coming and properly bred litter. 
 
 Before mating a bitch it is always well to give her a good worming 
 to clean her out thoroughly. She will herself be stronger and health- 
 ier and the pups themselves will be less likely to suffer from worms. 
 The best authorities differ among themselves as to whether it is 
 advisable to mate a bitch her first time in season. As even the most 
 noted breeders vary in opinions on this, we feel that we may say it 
 is optional with you on this point. Breeders also vary in opinion 
 of whether a bitch should be served twice, or only once for best 
 results. Being served twice will usually mean a large litter. Some 
 claim greater strength will be given the individual pups if there is 
 but one mating. In most cases we favor two matings — but not 
 always. If served twice, a day's interval should be allowed in 
 between. 
 
 After mating, and the entire in-season period being over, a bitch 
 should be given entire freedom for the exercise that she so much 
 needs. In the country this is easy. In the city be sure you see 
 that she is given plenty of exercise. Be very careful she gets into 
 no fights. 
 
20 YOUR AIREDALE 
 
 Feed her generously while she is in whelj), giving her ])lenl y of new 
 milk, oatmeal, brown bread and fresh, lean, raw meat frcjm twice to 
 four times a week. She should whelp about sixty-three days after 
 mating, often whelping a couple of days early. During the latter 
 part of pregnancy it may be well to give her a tablespoon of vegetable 
 oil or castor oil about every other day to help her along. A fort- 
 night or so before she is due to whelp she should be kept where she 
 is going to whelp so that she will become accustomed to the quarters 
 and be quite at home and settled down when the pups are due. 
 During this time do not house her with other dogs, but keep her as 
 much as possible away from even the sound of them. Warmth is 
 especially essential for the puppies until they are at least three weeks 
 old. If this be not secured by artificial heat, you can undoubtedly 
 find a suitable place where there is sufficient natural heat, such as a 
 stable or cow shed where there is heat from the animals, etc. At 
 least give her a dry, sunny kennel, with plenty of good, clean straw 
 to whelp in; also have straw so placed that there will be a good dry 
 place for her after whelping. She should be left to herself as much 
 as possible, and always have plenty of fresh water handy to drink. 
 
 It is the best not to interfere with the bitch when she is in labor, as 
 more harm than good is likely to be the result. Airedales, if 
 healthy, will best be taken care of at this time by nature. You might 
 excite her, and do much harm, if you try to help. When she has 
 quite completed whelping — -taking from four to twelve hours^be 
 sure that she and the pups have good clean straw, and that the old 
 wet straw is removed entirely, and the place disinfected. She need 
 not be fed for some hours, but should be allowed to rest in quiet. 
 Change the straw every day, but interfere as little as possible with 
 the pups while they are less than a month old. 
 
 After whelping, a bitch will likely not want much to eat for a day or 
 so; but it will be well to offer her a little boiled milk or thin gruel, 
 in case she does desire it. A little broth poured over stale bread or 
 boiled rice may be good. She should always have clean, fresh and 
 cold water available. After the third day she may have more solid 
 foods such as some meat, vegetables, scraps from the table, etc. 
 The feeding pans should be fresh, clean and sweet. 
 
 Her health while nursing is of great importance. If her milk should 
 be scarce or of poor quality, it will be well to secure a foster mother 
 for the pups — ^not necessarily of the same breed, but at least of about 
 the same size as their real mother. If the pups gradually make a 
 mother's breasts sore from pulling, scratching, etc., rub them gently 
 with marshmallow ointment, which will be good for her and at the 
 same time will not bother the puppies. When the pups are about 
 a week old, their tails should be docked and their dew-claws removed. 
 A sharp pair of scissors will do the work. Take off about ^ of the 
 tail. Let the pups lap milk as early as possible, which will be good 
 for them and a great rehef to the mother. This should be new milk, 
 boiled and cooled down. Also you may soon give brown bread scald- 
 ed with new milk, boiled rice, or oatmeal. It is well to give the bitch 
 castor oil about once a week while she is nursing her pups. To get 
 strong pups it may be best not to let the bitch try to raise too many; 
 
By W. H. LINGO and 01 
 
 J HORACE LYTLE Zi. 
 
 if rIu" has more than six or seven, better get a foster mother for the 
 others. If this caniK^t be done, it may be best to destroy all but 
 the best six or seven of the litter. 
 
 SELLING AIREDALES AT A PROFIT 
 
 Airedales are the most popular dogs of the present century and the 
 natural result of this is the fact that good ones will bring very inter- 
 esting prices. In fact, champions usually sell for several thousands 
 of dollars. Airedale pups of any sort of good breeding at all should 
 bring not less than $15.00 each, and the bluest blood should bring 
 anywhere from 125.00 to $50.00 for pups a couple of months old. 
 All the older dogs will bring a much larger figure. Many of the 
 better class of magazines, which go to the people who do want and 
 can afford to pay for the right breeding, publish dog departments 
 in their advertising columns, in which space can be secured for a very 
 reasonable figure and a very few such ads should be the means of 
 disposing of several htters of pups if you are careful in handling 
 intelligently, promptly, and in a thorough business-hke manner, the 
 inquiries that this advertisement will bring you. There are several 
 dog magazines published which should also be used, and which 
 probably alone would sell an entire litter to good advantage from 
 just one advertisement. 
 
 Usually the best time to dispose of your pups is when they are from 
 a month to several months old, even though you do so at very much 
 less than you could get if you should raise them to be full grown dogs. 
 We might suggest that it may often be well to sell most of the pups 
 at around $25 . 00 each while they are young, but keep one which you 
 select as the pick of the htter and raise that one with a view to de- 
 veloping, showing and later selling at a really attractive price of 
 anywhere from $200.00 to $900.00 or $1000.00 or more. Or you 
 might raise a good dog from time to time, and develop him and get 
 some good winnings behind you, and find that he is even more 
 valuable to you to offer at public Stud, than if you sell him. A Stud 
 dog should be carefully kept in good condition right along, and 
 should be shown as often as possible so that he may be kept before 
 the public eye and allow his reputation and acquaintance to grow. 
 With a good Stud dog you can average fees of anywhere from $15.00 
 to $25.00 and a good Stud dog should yield you from a great many 
 hundreds of dollars to over a thousand dollars a year, if your adver- 
 tising appears regularly in the better dog publications. He hardly 
 ought to average being studded more than twice a week, but at, 
 say from $15.00 to $25.00 or more you can easily see for yourself 
 that this will amount to a very worth-while sum in a year's time. 
 
 A good strong and healthy female should have, at least one and 
 usually two litters of pups a year, and will average six to ten pups in 
 a litter. Selling these pups at not less than $25.00 each, you can 
 easily estimate the amount of money that you can make in a year's 
 time from breeding. 
 
 The Oorang Kennels i nvite all friends and patrons to freely commu- 
 nicate with them at any and all times in regard to any sort of dog 
 information that may be desired. 
 
OORANG DOG REMEDIES 
 
 After years of experimenting, we have finally selected REAL reme- 
 dies for nearly every ailment peculiar to dogs. These have been 
 tested by many famous Canine Specialists and have proven by 
 actual experience to be the best, surest cures and most effective 
 remedies ever concocted. These are the remedies we use here, our- 
 selves, at the Oorang Kennels. Satisfaction guaranteed. Below is 
 the complete list: 
 PRICE INCLUDES POSTAGE, EXCEPT WHERE NOTED 
 
 Alterative Cooling Tablets, for heated blood, etc $ -50 
 
 Anti-Rickets Tablets, a bone and muscle builder 50 
 
 Aperient Biscuits, any dog will readily take these 50 
 
 Anti-Asthmatic Tablets, for Asthma, etc ■ ■ ■ • -50 
 
 Anti-Vomit Tablets • • • • -50 
 
 Bone Builder, for Rickets, Osteroporosis, etc 50 
 
 Canine Elixir, for diseases of the Genito-urinary organs, etc .50 
 
 Consumption Capsules, of great value in the arrest and treatment of this 
 
 Chorea Tablets, for Chorea, St. Vitus' Dance, etc . 50 
 
 Chronic Skin Disease Tablets, for obstinate cases of Mange and Eczema 50 
 
 Cough Tablets, generally effect a quick cure 50 
 
 Chemical Food, to give size and weight, postage 10 cts. extra 50 
 
 Constipation Tablets, a gentle and effective laxative 50 
 
 Digestive Tablets, for severe cases of indigestion 50 
 
 Diarrhoea Tablets, to relieve Diarrhoea which usually follows change of 
 
 food, etc . 
 
 50 
 
 Distemper Tablets, may be used as a preventive 75 
 
 Dip, Pint tins, postage 15 cts. extra ,■.■,•- ?« 
 
 Ear Canker Ointment, for both internal and external forms of this disease ... . &0 
 
 Eye Lotion Tablets, a safe and efficient remedy 50 
 
 Eczema and Sarcoptic Mange Remedy (Oily) 50 
 
 Hair Stimulant and Restorer 50 
 
 ■Jaundice Tablets, valuable in treating "Yellows," etc 50 
 
 Kidney Tablets, for Cy.stiti- or Inflammation of the Bladder, etc .50 
 
 Liniment, for Rheumatism, Sprains, Bruises, Lameness, etc., and can be 
 
 used for human treatment as well 50 
 
 Liver Tablets, a safe and reliable remedy . ■ -50 
 
 Locurium Ointment, for wounds and cuts, bruises, etc., good for man as well 
 
 as beast. 
 
 50 
 
 I^liin£6 PtGmedy 
 
 Mouth and Throat Wash, for ulceration of the mouth, sore gums, etc 50 
 
 Pneumonia Tablets, administer as soon as possible 50 
 
 Purgative Tablets, perfectly safe and effective 50 
 
 Rheumatism Tablets, for internal treatment .■■,•■ il 
 
 Tonic and Condition Tablets, to build up after sickness and to put in bench 
 
 show form, etc ,■ ~ ■ ■ • i^r en 
 
 Worm Capsules, an expellent of round. Maw and Tape Worms :••■■■• -^^ 
 
 Worm Capsules for Puppies, may be given with perfect safety to puppies from 
 
 six weeks old to six months 50 
 
 Tonic and Condition Tablets for Toy Dogs and Puppies 50 
 
 Distemper Tablets for Toy Dogs and Puppies 75 
 
 Vermifuge Capsules for Toy Dogs and Puppies 50 
 
 (Large Packages by Express Only.) 
 
 14 Gal. Cans 1 Gal. Cans 
 
 Spratt'sDip... "S1.50 $3.00 
 
 Spratt's Mange Remedy ,• • ; \. '^^ ^ , „ «o nr> 
 
 Spratt's Eczema and Sarcoptic Mange Remedy (Ointment) 1 lb inn 
 
 Worm Capsules, Kennel Size _ 5 . OU 
 
 Worm Capsules, For Puppies, Kennel Size ; 5 . uu 
 
 (These packages contain 15 times the quantity packed in a 50 cent package.) 
 
 These prices include postage, except where noted. Many a prize 
 winner has been cured of ailments by one or the other of these 
 remedies. We have hundreds of testimonials in our files testifying to 
 their absolute curing qualities. Look over the Hst, pick out what 
 you want, and mail your order to 
 
 OORANG KENNELS 
 
 LARUE, OHIO 
 
CONDITIONING AND BOARDING 
 KENNELS 
 
 The Oorang Couditioiiiiijr and Bcjiuclinjr Kennels is one of the best 
 equipped and most sanitary estabhshments of its kind in the country. 
 These kennels are located four miles distant from the main kennels 
 at LaRue, and occupy twenty-five acres of ground securely fenced 
 in and well shaded. These kennels are available to anyone, any- 
 where, who may wish to send a dog here to be boarded, conditioned 
 or treated. Dr. Rush, the Canine Speciahst, in charge, is admirably 
 suited for this work as his broad experience has acquainted him with 
 every possible dog ailment, also the quickest and most effective 
 methods of treating them. In connection with these kennels there 
 are special whelping quarters which are open to outside bitches. 
 This service insures for those taking advantage of it, a proper care 
 during this important time and the assurance of good pups. 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS 
 
 We positively will not accept any dogs suffering from Rabies or 
 Distemper. 
 
 Dogs must have good collars. 
 
 Dogs must be brought, or fully prepaid if sent by express. 
 Notify us prior to shipping and give the kennel name of the dogs. 
 All dogs received and held at owner's risk. We assume no respon- 
 sibility for accidents or losses, but all dogs will be given the best of 
 
 care 
 
 RATES 
 
 Boarding, Conditioning and treating all breeds of 
 
 dogs 12.50 per week. 
 
 Special Whelping quarters for brood matrons, in- 
 cluding puppies up to two weeks of age 2 . 50 per week. 
 
 Additional charges for puppies after two weeks 
 
 and up to six weeks of age, each 25 per week. 
 
 Additional charges for puppies after six weeks and 
 
 up to twelve weeks, each 50 per week. 
 
 Puppies over twelve weeks of age 2 . 50 per week. 
 
 Reasonable extra charges will be made for all surgical operations. 
 
 OORANG KENNELS 
 
 LARUE, OHIO 
 
MOORE'S TOXIN 
 
 A SURE CURE FOR DOCx DISTEMPER 
 
 Moore's Toxin is a solution of sterilized germs of dog distemper. It 
 was discovered by Dr. Moore, after devoting the greater part of his 
 life in analyzing the cause, and experimenting on a cure. 
 
 The Toxin is injected into the dog and passes into its system. 
 Immediately the destruction of distemper germs begins, and contin- 
 ues until they are wholly eliminated. The condition of the dog 
 after this has taken place depends entirely upon the ravages made 
 by the disease before it was annihilated. If he had not become very 
 ill, he will not become so. If he was weak, he will still remain weak. 
 If' he has not sufficient strength to rally, he will die. Moore's 
 Toxin does not inject new life into dead or dying dogs— it simply 
 drives out distemper. 
 
 AN IMMUNIZING AGENT 
 
 We have adjunct remedies, which are powerful food tonics to aid the 
 dog on the road to recovery. If you do not want to take chances on 
 nursing dogs back to health after distemper, immunize and save 
 them from it. Moore's Toxin injected into a dog or pup which has 
 not become infected with distemper, will render him immune from 
 the disease for at least one year, and in most cases longer. 
 
 PRICES 
 
 Our price is $2.00 per vial— each vial containing one dose, sufficient 
 to cure or immunize one dog. Adjunct remedies sell for $1 .00 per 
 bottle. We have two of these remedies, and in any ordinary case, 
 ene bottle of each will bring the dog back into shape. The hypo- 
 dermic syringe, to be used for injecting the Toxin, sells for 50 cts. 
 No special syringe is necessary, as any ordinary hypodermic syringe 
 sold by your druggist will answer the purpose. Address all your 
 orders to 
 
 OORANG KENNELS 
 
 LARUE, OHIO 
 
PATENT DOG SOAP 
 
 (White) 
 
 FOR FLEAS, ETC 
 
 Has it ever occured to you that your dog is not immune from poison 
 while his coat is infected with fleas? It has been proven by famous 
 canine specialists that many cases of blood poison have been the 
 direct result of fleas. This being the case, it behooves every dog 
 owner to bathe his dog with a soap that will rid him of these pests. 
 The Patent Dog Soap kills fleas, besides keeping the dog's skin free 
 from scurf and preventing Mange. It has been successfully used 
 by many dog owners in preparing their pets for exhibition as it 
 leaves the coat smooth and glossy. 
 
 This Soap contains no Carbolic Acid or Coal Tar, but is nicely per- 
 fumed and produces a fine lather. It is recommended by some of the 
 most famous kennel owners in the country, and it is the soap we use 
 here at LaRue. 
 
 Price per cake — 25 cts postpaid. 
 
 PATENT ANTISEPTIC SOAP 
 
 (Black) 
 
 VETERINARY USE, ETC 
 
 This must not be confounded with Patent White Dog Soap. This 
 soap contains certain ingredients of powerful germicide and is the 
 result of a long series of careful experiments and tests. It is intended 
 for use as a germicide, disinfectant, for the treatment of wounds, 
 etc., and may be used with perfect impunity except internally. 
 
 One cake of this soap dissolved in forty pints of water may be used 
 as a disinfectant of kennels, benching, etc., and will kill most germs 
 in a few minutes. The spread of distemper may thus be checked. 
 It is also used very extensively in a sterilizer for veterinary instru- 
 ments. 
 
 Price per cake — 50 cts. postpaid. 
 
 OORANG KENNELS 
 
 LARUE, OHIO 
 
KENNEL REVIEW 
 
 A REAL DOG MAGAZINE 
 
 When you buy an Oorang Airedale, there are two things you should 
 have — A good magazine devoted to dogs — A good book portraving 
 and exploiting the Airedale. The KENNEL REVIEW is abso- 
 lutely the best, up to the minute monthly magazine in the country. 
 It consists of thirty-two pages brim full of interesting Airedale news, 
 hunting stories and photographs from life of the most famous Aire- 
 dales in America and England. 
 
 Every owner of an Airedale will find this magazine worth many times 
 the small cost and after becoming a regular reader will be surprised 
 at the increased interest and genuine pride he takes in his Airedale. 
 Other Airedale lovers in all parts of the world are regular readers of 
 The Kennel Review, and in its columns tell about the many in- 
 telligent traits of their dogs at home and in the hunting fields, 
 about their blue ribbon winners at the big Dog Shows held through- 
 out America, their varied experiences in rearing, caring for and 
 training puppies. 
 
 AIREDALES FOR PROFIT 
 
 Thousands of Airedale lovers in all parts of the world are making a 
 big profit raising Airedales, the total sales from one well known 
 kennel during the past year came close to the hundred thousand 
 dollar mark, which, my dear reader, you may find hard to believe, 
 but nevertheless it is a fact. Many well known kennels sell from 
 five to ten thousand dollars worth of stock annually. 
 
 You, who own your first Airedale and who have never considered the 
 possibilities of the interesting occupation of dog breeding will glean 
 worlds of valuable information along this line by becoming a regular 
 reader of The Kennel Review and so we are sure you will thank us 
 for teUing you something about this most interesting doggy maga- 
 zine. 
 
 For the benefit of our many patrons we have arranged with the 
 Publishers of this magazine to receive and forward subscriptions and 
 if you will forward us the subscription price of one dollar, we will 
 have the magazine come to your address every month for one year. 
 Do not put it off — send today and learn how to get the most real 
 enjoyment out of that fine pu]) of yours. 
 
 Price $1.00 
 
 Send All Orders to 
 
 OORANG KENNELS 
 
 LARUE, OHIO 
 
ALL ABOUT AIREDALES 
 
 SIXTH EDITION 
 BY 
 
 R. M. PALMER, A. B. 
 
 The al-round superiority and ever-increasing popularitv of the 
 Airedale IS making this book the most popular and widely "read dog 
 book of the present day. "All About Airedales" is a book of general 
 information, valuable to dog lovers and owners, breeders and fan- 
 ciers. It IS profusely illustrated with selected photographs of noted 
 dogs and rare scenes. It reviews the Airedale Terrier from its 
 origin up to the present time, discussing its characteristics, physique 
 etc. Below, we are hsting the various chapter headings of the book- 
 let thereby giving an idea as to its contents. Read these, and vou 
 will appreciate somewhat the comprehensiveness of this volume.' 
 
 Chapter I, Page 9 —Origin and General Characteristics of the 
 
 Airedale Terrier. 
 
 Chapter II, Page 23 —Physique and Standard Type of the Aire- 
 dale Terrier. 
 
 Chapter III, Page 29 —The Kennel; How to Arrange It. 
 
 Chapter IV, Page 33 —Feeding. 
 
 Chapter V, Page 39 —Breeding. 
 
 Chapter VI, Page 51 —Puppies; Their Care; How to Feed and 
 
 Raise Them Successfully. 
 Chapter VII, Page 63 —Healthy Airedales. 
 Chapter VIII, Page 75— Diseases and Their Treatment. 
 Chapter IX, Page 89 —Showing Airedales. 
 Chapter X, Page 97 —Airedales vs. Hounds. 
 Chapter XI, Page 105 —Training and Development for Sport. 
 
 Chapter XII, Page 111— Airedales in Canada, Airedale Anecdotes, 
 
 SelUng Airedales, Advertisements. 
 Our Price for this book with cloth binding is $1.50— paper cover 
 $1.00 (postpaid.) 
 
 Let us have your order at once, as it will be a most valuable addition 
 to your library. 
 
 Send Your Order to 
 
 OORANG KENNELS 
 
 LARUE, OHIO 
 
DOG ACCESSORIES 
 
 We have a complete assortment of accessories and necessi- 
 ties that are absolutely essential to every dog owner. 
 
 By purchasing these accessories from us, you are assured 
 of the highest quality obtainable at very reasonable prices. 
 
 Here is a partial list of items we have in stock at all times — 
 but write us for anything you may want. 
 
 Collars 
 
 Chains 
 
 Leads 
 
 Stripping Combs 
 
 Dog Feeds of all kinds 
 
 Dog Crates, etc. 
 
 The limited amount of space in this booklet does not permit 
 the description and prices of all the accessories we handle. 
 
 Write us about anything you want in the way of Sporting 
 Goods and Equipments. Any particular information you 
 desire will be sent upon application. 
 
 OORANG KENNELS 
 
 LARUE, OHIO 
 
Complcfcly designed an6 txnuitd in the 
 studios of the Sloman Aduerfoing Co,Daij{on.ft 
 
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
 002 837 704 6