Class _JiH;i: Bode ' F gi Gflfyrig]itE°_ COPWRIGHT DETOSIT. /.rr^, 3^ '^^--^^-^x4^ liW^ J-^-T^/^—— L-^ -^^@ THE STRUGGLES FOR LIFE AND HOME IN THE North -West. BY A PIONEER HOMEBUILDER. LIFE, 1865-1889. T Geo. w. Kranck. NEW YORK: I. GoLDMANN, Steam Printer, 7, 9 & ii New Chambers St. ®^ 1890. 'gj^JJnrv.. r^ -^<^' g> Copyright, 1890, by GEO. W. FRANCE. PREKACK. I do not claim for this book any literary merit, except that borrowed or quoted from others, for, when Gushing could mark 5000 mistakes in Webster's Unabridged Dictionary (say- ing that for the size of the book it had as few errors as could be expected), and when newspaper and other writers have to browse so largely from the genius and labor of others, that editorials are frequently copied bodily as their own (so that it is often difficult to know who produced some piece of intellect- ual work and the gems of genius that they print), it would therefore be presumptuous for an unlettered homebuilder on the border, alone to attempt anything very fine and glittering in building his book ; and though the most practical, valuable and expensive education in the world is that gotten by struggling hard and long against fiends and fate, for life, liberty and home, such a life permits of no leisure or condition of the mind for the culture of any of its latent literary genius. While the mere kid-gloved hired critic will smile over the stacks of humbug effusions of his professional brethren, he will sneer at this ill-favored thing ; and ring-black-legs will detest it, as they do truth itself and equality before the law. But when my case was so cruelly lied -abtTtrtSfidT was so persistently and corruptly held in a secret bastile to be tortured, looted and maligned, (as I found it to be the case with others also), and was always denied any hearing, or defense, or trial, I was left no alternative by the mongrel gang, but was forced to write my life, and theirs also —wherein it imperils the life, liberty and homes of the people. (3) 4 Preface. As to its truth, every point and assertion of mine is (in one place and another) shown to be so very evidently and positively true, that none but brazen members or tools of the black con- spiracy will ever question it. In the language of Josephus : " Some apply themselves to this part of learning to show their great skill in composition, and that they may therein acquire a reputation for speaking finely ; others there are who of necessity and by force are driven to write history, because they were concerned in the facts, and so cannot excuse themselves from committing them to writing for the advantage of posterity. Nay, there are not a few who are induced to draw their historical facts out of darkness into light, and to produce them for the benefit of the public, on account of the great importance of the facts them- selves with which they have been concerned .... I was forced to give the history of it because I saw that others perverted the truth of those actions in their writings. However, I will not go to the other extreme out of opposition to those men who extol the oppressors, nor will I determine to raise the actions of my own too high; but I will prosecute the actions of both parties with accuracy. Yet shall I suit my language to the passions I am under, as to the affairs I describe, and must be allowed to indulge in some lamentations upon the miseries undergone by my own "But if any one makes an unjust accusation against me when I speak so passionately about the tyrants, or the robbers, or sorely bewail the misfortune of our country, let him indulge my affections herein .... Because it had come to pass, that we had arrived at a higher degree of felicity than others, and yet at last fell into the sorest calamities again .... But if any one be inflexible in his censures of me, let him attribute the facts themselves to the historical part, and the lamentations to the writer himself only .... And I have written it down for the sake Preface. 5 of those that love truth, but not for those that please them- selves with fictitious relations." " Yes, I have lost the loved, the dear ! Yes, I have wept the bitter tear ! Have passed misfortune's darkest hour — Have known and felt the Tempter's power — Have bowed to scorn, unloved, alone, Longing for Friendship's cheering tone ! Unhappiness ! I know thee, then — So can I help my fellow-men ! — Public Opinion. G, W. K. "If all the scoundrels who now bask in the smiles of San Francisco society were to receive their just deserts for their infamous deeds, the accommodations at San Quentin and Folsom would be entirely too re- stricted. We have before taken occasion to define the crime of "personal jour- nalism." It is never perpetrated except against a rich scoundrel. A journal may with perfect safety hold up to scorn the actions of water front bummers, or the despised hoodlum. Turn to your i3aper any morning and evening and see how oftf^n crime in low places is exposed and made odiotis in a hundred different ways. Does any one sujjijose that distinguished lawyers would be found to rail at the practice so long as it was confined within these limits? Bah! The inquiry excites a smile of derision. Any Tom, Dick or Harry in the city might be mentioned, and columns of contem^jt and derision hurled at them without a jjrotest being raised. But, as we have said before, let a man Avith a million or two of money commit the most unpardonable outrages, and be referred to ever so gently, and the pack start out in full cry yelping "personal journalism." Without personal journalism vice and roguery would be sure to get the ui^ijer hand in modern times. Personal journalism is the bulwark reared against its encroachment. Personal joiarnahsm is only another term for the ' ' rascal's scourge. " It will be a sorry day for society if the assassin's pistol or the rich man's coin ever prove effective enough to stop the hand engaged in the work of making crime odious by pointing out to the public their enemies. Crime cannot be checked with a parable. Its perpetrators must be held up to public scorn." San Fi-ancisco "Chronicle." "JValla Walla, Washington, Nov. 2ofh, 1889. TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN:— " I have been personally acquainted loith Mr. Geo. W. France for many years, and know his general reputation and standing in this State to he good, and ivhile it is true that he loas at one time convicted of murder in the second degree, it is now generally believed that he committed the homicide in necessary self-defence, and is innocent of any crime whatever, I take pleasure in hear- ing testimony to his uniform good character, both before and since this unfortunate occurrence, as an honest, ^ipright, orderly and law-abiding citizen. THOS. H. BRENTS." [Representative in Congress for two terms from Washington Terriiorv | (7) LIST OK ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE, Author's Portrait - - Frontispiece. Oil Works ------- 29 View of Salt Lake City, Utah - - - 43 The Mormon Temple, Etc. - - - - - 49 PYRA.M1D Lake, Utah . .... 59 Los Angeles, Cal. , from the Hill - - 67 Mexican Herder ... - . - 69 Main Street from Temple Block, Los Angeles - - 71 Chinese Quarter, Interior of Chinese Temple (Josh House), Los Angeles - - - 73 Tropical Plants and Historical Buildings - - 75 Pi-Ute iNDLANf Camp, Nevada - - - - 79 A Canyon - - - - - - - 101 Shoshore Falls, Snake River, Idaho, 2G0 Feet High 103 "I Hauled "Wood and Rails from the Blue Mountains" 113 Making Clapboards ..... 117 MlTiTNOma Falls, Columbia River, Oregon - - 125 My First Outfit ------ 131 My First House ...... 139 Land Office Receipt ..... 144 United States Land Patent .... 149 An Indian Village ..... 157 An Indlin Massacre - - - - - 179 School Land Lease ..... 216 School Land Receipt - - - - - 217 Defending My Life and Home - - . - 233 The Seatco Bastile - . - . - 249 A Sick Prisoner ------ 271 Prisoners at the Bastile Going to Work — Drunken Guard -..-.. 277 Penalty for Exposing the Tortures of the Secret Bastile 283 City of Sitka, Alaska . . . . . 459 CONTKNTS. CHAPTER I. Striking out from home when a boy. — My object. — Ho ! For the Oil Regions in Pennsylvania. — My Chum. — Great Excitement. — Oil City flooded. — "Coal Oil Johnny." — Tools, etc., used in bor- ing for oil. — All about finding oil. — And what the oil is. — My ex- perience for about a year. CHAPTER II. Leaving the Oil Regions for a good time " Out West." — A period of travel, etc., of four-and-a-half months to the Missouri River — Then crossing the plains to Salt Lake with wagon train in 60 days. — Our train, etc.; my team, etc.; first camp in a storm. — Fording the Platte river with its quicksand bottom ; big teams, etc. My first drink ; delusion in distance ; game, etc. — Freighting; life and government on the plains. — A comprehensive account of the region from the Missouri River to Salt Lake Valley. CHAPTER III. Salt Lake City and Valley. — Salt Lake ; climate and bathing. — Remained a month. — Then made a trip of a month on the plains. Caught in a blizzard. — Sixty-two frozen mules for breakfast, Oct. 14th. — A rough tramp in the snow, 180 miles back to Salt Lake. — Dreaming of home. — As to the hardships of trains snow-bound in the mountains. - Work for a Mormon dignitary. — The ''Mighty Host of Zion." — How they whipped Johnson's U. S. Army in 1861, etc., etc. — Mountain Meadow massacre, etc., etc. — Leave Salt Lake on horse-back for St. George, 350 miles south; takes a month. — Mormon farms and villages ; their system of settlement, etc. — Climate, soil, mountains, etc. — A month in St. George as "Dodge's Clerk." — On an Indian raid. — Made a trip to the extreme southern settlements. — What for f— Cotton country.— Mountain of rock salt.— A true, comprehensive description of the Mormons; how they live and deal with each other and with Gentiles; their religion and government; as they really are in practice; their virtues, crimes and danger. (IK 12 Contents. CHAPTER IV. Travelers I met in Utah.— Leave Utah for the Los Angeles, Cal., country.— The company I travel with. — Danites.— The In- dians on the road. — A Mormon "miracle," — Indian dialect. — Sand storm. A mine in the desert. — The region from St. George to California. — Arizona. — San Bernardino, Los Angeles, and that country. — Climate, soil, people and business in 1867 and 1884. — Land, titles, etc. CHAPTER V. Leave Los Angeles for a new mining camp in Nevada. — The stock of a train eaptui'ed by Indians. — ''Death Valley." — Eighty- seven families, stock, etc., perish. — The surrounding region and its products. — How teamsters are revenged. — Comprehensive des- cription of the mining camp, etc. — HuiTah ! Huri'ah ! ! We have struck it. Hurrah ! 1 ! — A big Indian. — How Mining Co's. officials steal.— Indian and white man hung, etc. — The mode of govern- ment and trial; wages, living, business, etc. — The geological formation of mineral lodes, veins, fissures, etc., and placer mines. Prospecting for and locating claims.— The right time to seU, etc. — Why mines are guarded with rifles. — How stock companies operate. — Why newspaper accounts of mines are not reliable. — The real prices paid for mines. - How stock, etc., is made to sell. — One-and-a-half year's experience. CHAPTER VI. The mines, continued. — Exciting reports from a distant moun- tain. — I outfit one of a party to go.— What he wrote me. — "Ho ! for White Pine ! "—The richest silver mine ever discovered. — The pure stuff. — I go, too. — Visit another camp on the way.— My horse and saddle "borrowed."- A big camp ablaze with excitement. — Belief that the stuff could be found anj^where by digging. — The many thousand "mines." — "Brilliant schemes." Blubbering in- vestors from the States. — Life : gambling, drinking, business and damnation. — Making big sales, etc.; the outcome. — Another year and a half of lively practical experience in the mines. — The many smaller camps in the surrounding region. — Virginia City and Gold Hill. — The great Comstock lode. — The Bonanza and other great stock gambling mines that we read of. Contents. 13 CHAPTER VII. Building the U. P. and Central railroads. — A general rugged prospecting tour of seven mouths in Nevada, Idaho and Montana. — On to Washington Territory. — The country, climate, soil, scenery, fishing, hunting, incidents, etc., etc. — Finding the true source of the fine gold in the Snake and Columbia rivers. — The more famous of the Idaho Placer mines. CHAPTER VIIL A comprehensive description of the Walla Walla country; soil, climate and productions and the lay of the land. — Hire out on a farm for two months.— The secret of success and failure in government and coi-poration contracts. — Secret intrigue at military posts, etc. — Experience in work in the mountains.— Locate a land claim and get married — A year's experience. CHAPTER IX. Brief description of Eastern and Western Washington and of the various sections in each ; their industries and inducements, advantages and disadvantages. CHAPTER X. History of the settling of the Walla Walla country. — Report of government experts as to the soil. — Packing to the mines of Idaho, etc. — The market and opportunities. — The outlook in 1870 when I landed there. — The country grasped by its throat; the government prostituted. — 1000 miles of river navigation to the sea strangled, and the tribute that was levied. — The result. — The promised railroad, etc. — First land claim I located. — Life in the beginning of a home ; dangers and draw-backs. — My first outfit. — Sell my claim ; hunt for and locate another in a new wild section; description of it and the locality. — My Indian neighbors; how they treated the first white men they ever saw. — A homebuildei*'s land rights and what he must necessarily endure in carving a home in a wilderness.— Warned of the perplexities, conspiracies and treason to be planted in the way. — How we started out to build a good and spacious home; our first house, etc. — Travelling, moving and camping in the west.— 25 miles to blacksmith's shop, 14 Contents. etc. — The " Egypt " for supplies. — Land claims located about us and abandoned, are re-located by others time and again. — My first crop; big, black, hungry crickets, one hundred bushels to the acre. — So that we are left alone in the '' France Settlement." — The section surveyed and I " file my claim."— Raise hogs; the result; also get a band of cattle; experience on the range. -Getting roads opened, etc. — First railroad in Eastern Washington. - Struggling for a livelihood and home ; how I managed. — Other new settle- ments and people; how they done. — ''Land hunters." — "Prove up "; pay for and get patent for pre-emption claim and take a homestead claim adjoining. — Copy of United States patent. — How we just loped along and ahead of the country. — It settles up. — New county; towns, etc., built; settlers swindled; build school house, etc., etc. CHAPTER XL An Indian war. — Neighboring Indians go on the warpath ; the reason. -Description of their domain; their horses and cattle. — A job on Uncle Sam. — How they plead for their country. —"Earth governed by the sun," etc. — Whom they killed. — How they marched and fought. — Settlers either stampede or gather in fortresses. — Efforts made by men to have other tribes break out. — For plunder. — What an Indian must do to become a citizen. — How Indian claims are jumped. — What the Indian was before the advent of the Whites. — Their government, pui'suits, etc.^-What fire-arms and whiskey done for them. — How they started fire, lived and died ; their religion. — How to improve the Indian. — "A cry of the soul." CHAPTER XII. Indians, continued. — Joseph. — White Bird. — Looking glass and Indians generally. — The White Bird fight. — These Indians in early days ; their flocks, herds and fine farms. — The result of the war to the Indians. — "Cold-blooded treachery." — How Chief Joseph treated white prisoners. — " The glory of the West." — Col. Steptoe's defeat. — " For God's sake, give me something to kiU my- self with." — The others saved by other Indians. — An Ingrate. — Col. Wright's victory ; G20 horses butchered. — How Wright treated Indian prisoners. — "The Chief Moses outrage." — "Mystery." —$70,000,000 squandered by the gang. Contents. 15 CHAPTER XIIL Indians, concluded. — " The Waiilatpu massacre. — The thrilling story of one who, as a girl, was an eye witness, and then taken away as a prisoner. — Forebodings of the murderous outbreak. — Friendly warnings given. — The dying hours of Dr. and Mrs. "Whitman." — Mission life among the Indians. — As the Indians were in 1852 ; and then in 1856. — Death of Chief Kanaskat. — How Indians are preserved. — How "civilization" was introduced to the natives of South and Central America. CHAPTER XIV. Home building narrative resumed. — Improve homestead claim as I had the other. — The market, etc.— My herds of cattle, horses, hogs, etc. — Great prosperity. — Railroads built from tide water ; freights, etc. — Immigration. — Further enlargement of my home and business by leasing, fencing and breaking a quarter section of school land. — Copy of the lease and receipt for second year's pay- ment on the same. — The law and custom as to it. — Confirmed by Congress. — Serve as county road viewer and on first grand jury of Columbia County, and learn something. —Road supervisor of a twenty-mile district.— A review, and what I have learned about farming, etc.— The best economy while " serpents are at the udder." CHAPTER XV. Land jumping.— First serious case in the " France settlement." — Our graveyard started. — The " poor man's friend." — Street fight with a jumper. -''Hurrah for Whetstone Hollow." Public senti- ment as to such cases. —When the courts and press stand in with the people, and when against them.— Land sharks. — How petty thieves are shot down with impunity. — Home wreckers ; how mv prosperity made me an object of envy and ravage.— A murderous conspiracy by gentlemen with great influence at court to jump my pre-emption and school land portions of my well-earned, improved and stocked home.— The lying pretexts that were invented and used as a blind ; jump all the water, etc., on my place. — ''If you want any water, dig for it ! "—Wanted to get me into their courts. — How I repossessed my own. — " Will fix you by helping H. . jump your school land ! "—How I had befriended them.— "Damned be he who first cries hold : enough ! " — Tries to drive me off with a gun, etc. — How we get better acquainted; get friendly and he 16 Contents. agrees to quit. — How I was performing my homage against a lui'king foe. — His object. — Is set to resume the conflict. — " An out- rage for one man to own all the land, and the water too." — "Will settle it with an ounce of lead," etc. — Boasts of his backing and influence. — "We will make it hot as hell for you now." — " I have taken your school land, E — , your pre-emption, and by G — d ! we will soon have a man on your homestead ! " — A man loans me his pistol for defense, and then eggs on the jumper. — The lying gang. — " But truth shall conquer at the last." — Jumper's many -wicked threats. — Try to have him bound over to keep the peace. — My instructions from the peace ofiicer. — " Be prepared to defend your- self and sow the ground." — He loans me seed for the pui'pose. — " There comes [Jumper] now with a gun! " — "Let us go out and see what he is going to do with it." — " I don't care a damn what he does with it." — How he followed me around the field with a cocked carbine in both hands. — Quits and has a secret conference with the man who did not care a damn what he done with his gun. — " I ask you as a friend and neighbor to quit sowing wheat and leave the field, for there is going to be trouble ! " — " Look out for him, now!" — Belches out at the end of a stream of profanity, "turnback! leave the field ! and don't come back nary time ! " — "I will fix you!" crack, bang/ — "I will kill you!" crack, bang/ — I return the fire in rapid succession, thus saving my life. — Positice, certain, incontrovertible proof as to the same. — How he missed me by a scratch! — "There, France is shot!" — The lying gang. — "Where logic is invented and wi'ong is called right." — Am charged with murder! — The would-be assassin, home ravager and ravisher is shielded, venerated and revenged by his gang. — " If by this means we further our cause, the private assassin deserves our applause." — Am thrown into jail without a hearing. — Held in jail near ten months begging and demanding a trial; can never get either a trial or hearing. — " Virtue distressed " could get no protection here. — Am betrayed, sold and given away. — " His glories lost, his cause Betrayed ! " — Shanghaied to the gang's Bastile in double irons. — "Oh ! 'twas too much, too dreadful to endure P^ — "He jests at scars that never felt a wound ! " — " Is this then," thought the youth, "is this the way to free man's spirit from the deadening sway of worldly sloth ; to teach him while he hves to know no bliss but that which virtue gives ? " — Examples of other cases, and what the law is. — My case as established, and the law, etc., as to the same. Contents. 17 CHAPTER XVI. A pilgrimage thrpugli hell ! — Seven years' experience in the Seateo contract bastile ; the kind of a hell and swindle this was ; how I was taken there ; a thi-ee or four days journey by wagon, boat and rail. — How I was judged by people on the road. — Sym- pathy. — " Either innocent of crime or a very bad man." — The set questions asked by those who had suffered likewise. — Des(!ription of the bastile. — How I was impressed. — The kind of people I found the prisoners to be, and the officials. — How they were employed. — What they had done and what they had not done; their com- plaints, etc. — Jumping away. — The crooked and rocky road to liberty. — Who got there and how. — The inquisition of the mind. — How prisoners are driven to the frenzy of despair and death. — What they earned and were worth to the gang. — What it cost the people. — What they got to eat and wear. — How they were treated when well and when sick. — The punishments. — How I was engag- ed while in the midst of flaming desolation. — Crazy prisoners. — The good and bad qualities and conduct of the officials. — The re- deeming feature of the institution. — The different nationalities and occupations represented and their experiences. — One of the Polaris' crew; six months on an ice floe. — The good, bad and mixed; the innocent, guilty and the victims of circumstances, whiskey and accidents. — Inequality of sentences and treatment. — Ro1)bing the cradle and the grave for seventy cents a day. — How they lived and died. — The censorship on correspondence and the real object of the same. — A secret prison. — Shanghaied prisoners trj^ to make theii' cases known to the public. — How the Governor stood in ^^th the gang. — Letters smuggled by ministers, members of the Legislature, humane guards, etc. — Squelching letters of vital importance. — "Damn you, you can't prove it." — Like abuses in the insane asylum. — The remedy. — A j^lf^a that any prisonei f^Jtall ai least he accorded a public hearing, and let the People judge. — The worst criminals not in prison, but in office ; their victims crushed. — A pet prisoner turned in with a bottle of whis- key and a pistol in his pockets. — The visiting preachers ; what they thought of the prisoners and of the officials. — One that was a thorough-bred; would fight the devil in any guise; what he done for reform and how he was bounced. — Can ^vl'ite to him yourself. — Cruel deception. — False and cheating hopes. — ''There is France, if he had not been so anxious about getting home, he would have been out long ago." — '' Must keep still and not bore anybody." — 2 18 CONI ENTS. Holo the still and mrek languished and dipurs, but often so distant and scrubby, that it is said, in some localities telegraph poles cost twenty dollars, or more, each. Saw quite a number of wagon trains and of Indians ; met quite an emigration from California and Oregon to the states ; saw some prairie dogs, wolves, jack-rabbits and sage-hens, and heard of buffalo and other large game. We took turns at cooking, while others brought the water and fuel — which is generally buffalo or cattle " chips," or sage brush. A couple at a time relieved the regular herders, by herding the mules mornings and evenings ; and one at a time guarded the train at night — though he often slept all the same, so that one of the boys offered to take the whole job, declaring "it did not tire him any." The same degree of daring and low cunning necessary in successfully stealing a single horse in the states, or in robbing a store, a customer, or client, if displayed here on the plains by a secret gang of a dozen men, could have captured our whole train most any night, notwithstanding we were all armed with rifles and revolvers. Moreover, the fact that train animals are seldom molested, though feeding a mile or two from camp, and perhaps 300 from even a military post, shows the Indians to be more honest, or else more cowardly, than is generally repre- sented. Suppose the working masses in the states should rise in their necessity and might, strip off their ill-gotten possessions, and banish to the plains by themselves the "charitable" tribes among them, who live chiefly by their wits, tricks and hidden vices off of other men's toil, with none to labor, earn, produce for them, or to watch and make tliem afraid ; they thus being compelled to work, steal, or starve, and the country ivas their own! Could a train, as inviting as ours, pass through their country without tribute or plunder ? Not much ! And instead of an occasional grave with a head-board rudely marked," killed by Indians," etc., whole grave yards would appear. The trip to me was a novel and, on the whole, a pleasant 42 Out West. one ; an agreeable enougli company : nobody striving for trouble or imposition, never a figbt, or' even a hand on a pistol for protection or for crime, and I disremember hearing the captain or proprietor speak scarcely an angry or insolent word — certainly not to me. Our journey ended. Mr. White told our Moses (Geo. Striugham) to " take the boys to the best hotel in town," where he boarded us at three dollars a day, while un- loading, etc., in a storehouse he had procured to dispose of his sfoods : he having left us several davs back to be here in ad- vance. This was also his first experience in the West. H 6 o (43) CHAPTER III. Salt Lake City and Valley. — Salt Lake. — Climate and batliing. — Eemained a month. — Then made a trip of a month on the plains. — Caught in a blizzard. — Sixty-two frozen mules for breakfast, Oct. 14th. — A rough tramj) of 180 miles in the snow. — Back to Salt Lake. — Dreaming of home ! — As to the hardships of trains snow-bound in the mountains. — "Work for a Mormon dignitary. — The "mighty Host of Zion." — How they whipped Johnson's U. S. Army in 1861, etc. — Mountain- Meadow massacre, etc. — Leave Salt Lake on horseback for St. George, 350 miles south. — Takes a month. — Mormon farms and villages. — Their system of settlement, etc. — Climate, soil, mountains. — A mouth in Si". George as "Dodge's Clerk." — On an Indian raid. — Made a trip to the extreme southern settlements. — "What for ! — Cotton country. — Mountain of rock salt. — ^A true, comprehensive description of the Mormons. — How they live and deal Avith each other and A\-ith Gentiles. — Their religion and government, as they eeali.y aee in practice. — Their virtues, crimes and danger. oALT Lake City, with its gardens, trees and rippling brooks, spread out in a spacious valley, made fruitful and charming by a cheerful climate, water and industry, presented a beautiful, pleasing appearance to ns, having seen little else than bleak, burnt, craggy desolation for twelve hundred miles and sixty days. — The valley to the north extends about a hundred miles and is about eight or ten miles wide, on an average. This is water- ed mostly by Bear and Webber rivers, which empty in Salt Lake. To the south the valley reaches about seventy miles, averaging, say, two miles in breadth, is watered and fertilized by the river Jordan, also emptying into Salt Lake, where the waters of this and Bear river, besides other streams, evaporate, leaving their salts in the lake ; it, like the dead sea, having no outlet. The country is alkaline or salty, and the atmosphere is very light and dry ; the former accounts for the vast amount of salt in the lake, and the latter for the evaporation in excess of that in a moist climate. Is 4200 feet above the sea, 90 miles long, 20 to 25 miles broad, 15 to 20 feet deep. Six pails of water are said to make one of salt. Health seekers should note that here is a mild, dry mountain climate with sea breeze, and bathing in cold brine or warm sulphur. (.44) All about the Mormons. 45 I batlied in the famed warm sulphur springs, where Dr. Kobinson was assassinated for desiring to own them by the U. S. laws, when the brethren wanted it ; attended the theatre and church meetings;— remember hearing Yice-Presideut Kimlial from the pulpit tell the choir to "sing something lively, as he enjoj-ed that kind of music best even at a theatre." Ate apri- cots, peaches and other fruit from the acre gardens that adorn nearly every residence in town. There being a stream of mountain water flowing on either side of every street for irri- gation, etc. Talked with men from the mining and stock regions of the surrounding country, who come for hundreds of miles on business, to winter, and spend their money in enjoj-- ment here, as a place, that surely has many attractions, even as a permanent place of residence. Kemaiued here about a month, part of the time driving team about town ; then for another month drove a six mule team in a grain supply train for the Overland Stage Company at forty dollars a month, until caught, the 13th of October, in a blizzard on the plains ; were confined to our beds in the wagons for two nights and a day ; nor could we scarcely move on account of the cold and the snow drifting in and over us. When the storm abated we crawled out, broke up feed boxes for fires, and went to look for the stock— 124 heads; were in the brush (on Green river), where we had left them, but just half of them, 62, were frozen to death, and in all the ghastly attitudes of cruel agony. Left the wagons where we had camped, drove the remainder of the mules to a valley, six or seven miles away, where it was quite warm, but little snow had fallen, and left them for the winter in care of providence, who never tempers the winds for an unfortunate and abused mule. Three or four Mormon teams were engaged to take us with them to Salt Lake— 180 miles ; but had to walk, camp and sleep out in the snow, a foot or two deep. There is nothing terrible about sleeping in the snow or a snow storm for a night or two, with plenty of blankets, no matter how cold it is ; but to continue doing so and travel, the blankets get wet or damp, so that one dreams of home, s^oeet home ! In accordance with the custom of the country, as a sub- stitute for taxes, prisons, courts and lawyer gangs, I had a 46 Salt Lake City and Utah. navy-revolver up to this time ; but never having needed it, and it being cumbersome, disposed of it, and have never owned a fire-arm since, except a shot gun; though on a few occasions have found it necessary to carry a pistol for protection in kind. There is scarcely any necessary occasion to lose horses or mules by cold or starvation in the far West. ]f they are not over-worked, they will stand any one storm. And there are geuial valleys of sunshine, and grass in sight or accessible from most anywhere ; also rabbits and other game are quite plentiful for parties short of rations. Therefore, the heroism (?) of men in command, for living on starved and frozen mules and for other hardships endured in the mountains, is a, humbug and out- rage. The mules should have been rollicking in a friendly vale, and the party living on jack-rabbits and venison. Found the weather warm and pleasant when Ave got to Salt Lake Valley again. Being acquainted with a young man (working for Gen. D. H. Wells) who wanted a vacation for a week or two, I took his place— hauling lumber from a saw- mill to town. Wells was third in authority in the Mormon Church and Masonic Order ; had two wives (sisters), at this, his principal home, where they lived in good style, and several others in other parts of town. His appearance to an unadvised outsider was that of a clever gentleman. He commanded the Mormon Militia, which were now having their annual training. I had bought a horse and saddle — to travel on my own hook to learn more of this famed secret brother- and sisterhood of masons — loaned it to one of the boys to attend the training near town, and the saddle blanket being a fancy one, the General himself did not disdain the use of it from a wandering Gentile, in com- manding the "mighty host," the same that "whipped the United States" under the renowned Albert Sidney Johnson, President Buchanan and company, in 1861. Or rather, "God did it, ' the secret brethren say. To an inexperienced outsider, it is a real mystery how Brigham Young and secret brethren out-generalled, out-dip- lomated, out-witted and stripped our Government agents, and people in that squabble. They had done it before, and have done it ever since. All about the Mormons. 47 Those who worship secrecy, tact and success alone, should plant flowers on his grave and revere the name of Brigham Young, They had committed many excesses and horrible crimes against outsiders in their secret order and tribal ways ; openly, as well as secrelily, dominated, repudiated and defied the Government, while Brigham Young was made Governor of the Gentiles in Utah, (being already chief of the Mormons), John D. Lee, Indian Agent, etc., etc. They having more influence at Washington than full-fledged American Citizens, because they had brother masons there — sent by thoughtless outsiders. At last to appease public sentiment, by throwing dirt in its eyes, and to blindly aid and assist the secret brethren, an army of near 10,000 men, richly equipped with wagon and pack trains and supplies for ten years, was sent out to Utah ; with the usual catering claptrap and out-cry of "enforcing the laAvs and crushing the Mormons." Then all was turned over - almost given to the before declared enem}^ but now "repenitent and industrious citizens," who, meanwhile, among other outrages, butchered in cold blood 130 men, women and children, appro- priating entirely the wealthy emigrant train, stock and fortunes of their victims. All this with the utmost impunity and almost in sight of a court-house of justice (?). That was a white man's secret order, tribal tribute, led by a ring favorite of the Government— John D. Lee. And right there to-day is one of the "grave yards ! " Wagons, mules, harness and fire-arms were most needed by the brethren at that time in their business. They worked diplomacy, tact and treachery on the Kentucky-California- bound emigrants, thus disarming them, but could not secure their property in peace without killing them, so they could not be "revengeful and make trouble." But they could get the Government trains securely by dip- lomacy and secret intrigue, without killing a man, woman or child, though they paid a trifle of the money, meanwhile filched from the Government in the deal. The army was disbanded at Camp Floyd when the sup- plies had been brought to their doors, where they were "sold" to the brethren, whom Officials are secretly sworn to assist 48 Salt Lake City and Utah. and befriend, and whose secrets they are sworn to "ever conceal and never reveal." Wagons worth two hundred and fifty dollars there then sold for fifteen dollars. Arms worth twenty dollars for two dollars, etc., etc. Brigham "bought" $30,000 worth of pork at one cent a pound, and then resold it to Gentiles at sixty cents a pound, etc., etc. Much of the supplies had just previously been bought here of the Mormons at fabulous prices. Great quantities of leather, harness, cavalry equipments, clothing, blankets, small stores, etc., etc., etc., were likewise turned over to the secret brethren, who dominate and direct the action of Government and Courts within their influence. I was told that they were even allowed to run off Govern- ment mules by the band, and then sell them back to the Govern- ment thus prostituted, which then turned them over to the brethren for a song. The Mormons were thus greatly assisted in their business at the expense of the people, and their era of prosperity began at these fruitful victories over the Govern- ment. Mormons believe this out-come to have been secretly fixed, when the expedition was gotten up and sent to them. The matter of the Mountain-Meadow massacre, and other like tributes to secrecy, they postponed with secret influence at court, for twenty years, until Royal Master Lee had gotten in bad standing in the order, and his life was about run out anyhow, when the brethren consented to give what was left of him alone up, as a sacrifice to appease and blind the people ; as if they had lost their secret influence at court, and justice now prevailed. This was to be a receipt in full for such cowardly, treacherous, brutal murder for plunder of hundreds of disarmed men, women and children by loell-knoiun masons under the shadow of Court-houses of Justice (?) and the United States flag. That company of emigrants could successfully defend themselves against the Indians, but could not do so against a gang of secret ring favorites in the Government. Nor can any- hody when the courts are thus subverted. About November first, started on my travels, horseback, to < d O o 50 Salt Lake City and Utah. the South. Weather in the valley was warm and delightful, while snow could be seen drifting and flying high up on the mountain peaks. One of these, Mt. Nebo, was said to be over 11,000 feet above the sea. A hundred miles, and I was out of Salt Lake Yalley, over the summit into a mountainous desert region (with some Avatered spots) sloping towards the Colorado river, some four hundred miles to the South. Salt Lake Valley is the only farming country of a.nj mag- nitude between the 98tli longitude and California, except far to the North. This valley is thickly settled by the Mormons, with a considerable number of Gentiles at and to the North of Salt Lake City. The Mormons live in villages with extensive lots for gar- dens and fruit purposes ; have their farming and pasture lauds fenced in common, and dig and own their water ditches like- wise. They adopted this system of living in towns as a protection against the Indians ; but as they are confined to small farms of say, twenty-five acres, of which there are ten to fifteen thousand, the disadvantage in living apart from them is off-set by the saving in fencing, and social and school advantages gained. Wherever a body or spot of soil is susceptible of irrigation, there is a Mormon village. The principal ones of these settle- ments, for some 75 miles after leaving Salt Lake ValJe//, are Filmore — once the capitol — and Beaver, on Salt Creek and twenty-five miles from the Mountain-Meadow graveyard. St. George is 350 miles from Salt Lake and on the Bio Virgin ; there being some small settlements between Beaver and St. George. Wandering along leisurely, reached St. George in about a month from Salt Lake ; found it a fruitful oasis in the desert, nicely situated and laid out and of considerable importance and population. Snow seldom lays on the ground ; a climate semi- tropical and as salubrious as can be found most anywhere ; en- joyed the best appetite here I ever had. The soil is mostly a bed of sand, cleared off sage-brush, and water brought on it at an expense in labor of twenty to thirty dollars per acre. All about the Mormons. 51 Remained here a month with and working for an intelligent Yankee Saint, and they called me "Dodge's Clerk." This is how I clerked : Hauled lumber and wood from a mountain, twenty to thirty miles off; went on an Indian raid of a few days with a local company, commanded by a General ; anyhow, he was a clever and agreeable man for the occasion, as were also the others of the company. Stock had been stolen from the range by the Navajoes, and the company went to overtake them, but did not succeed. Took a load of grape roots, cuttings, fig trees, and other things, to sell in the then extreme southern settlements on the Muddy Creek, 130 miles away, and twenty from the head of navigation on the Colorado river. Cotton was being raised here. Sold out mostly on Sunday, as the saints had gathered to worship and do business. Eemember their singing, "Hard times come again no more." Sunday is the principal business or trading day in mining camps and other new settlements with the Gentiles also. The religious phase of the Sabbath or Sunday question, as to a particular da}^ or date, is a tangled muddle anyway. About every day in the week is claimed as such by some numerous sect or people. In studying the question we find,, that the changes in official calendars and the difference in time,, on account of the motion of the earth, makes it too difficult to solve, to be honestly certain as to time, so it seems captious for people to quarrel as to the same. Let the general govern- ment name the dsij, as one of rest for man and beast, and en- force its reasonable observance. An island and longitude in the Pacific Ocean, according to our official calendar, has two Sundays together for any vessel sailing West, and none for those sailing East. They must drop or gain a Sunday in passing this longitude. I also got a load of rock salt at a mountain, or mount, of salt there. Much of it is so clear, one can read print through it some inches thick. Is mined with drill and powder. "Salt Deposits in Nevada. — Vast Fjelds of Pttke Eock Salt to be Found in Lincoln County. In Ijincoln County, on the Rio Vu'gin, is one of the most remarkable deposits of rock salt on the continent, says the Dayton News Reporter. It Salt Lake City and Utah. is found in liills 500 feet above the level of the valley, and ehemicaUv pure. Blocks of it over a foot square are so trausijarent that one may read a i:)ai3er throiigh them. So solid is this salt that it must be blasted out the same as if it were rock. This deposit of salt lies about three-quarters of a mile west of the Rio Virgin and three miles south of the Mormon viDage of St. Thomas. There a body of this salt is exposed for a length of nearly two miles, which is about half a mile wide and of unknown depth. The dejjosit runs north and south and is seen on the surface for a distunce of over nine miles. In places the canons have cut through it to a depth of sixty feet. At these points the Hiko company formerly blasted out the salt requii'ed in working their ores. Tliis great deposit of salt is situated at an altitude of 1,100 feet above the level of the sea. It is undoubtedly very ancient, as in one jjlace it has been covered by a flow of basaltic rock. In other j^laces it is covered to a dei^lh of from one to five feet with vol- canic tufa. At Sand Springs, in Churchill County, besides the salt that may be shoveled up from the surface, there is found a dei:)osit of rock salt fourteen feet in depth. This salt is as transparent as the clearest ice and does not contain a particle of any foreign or deleterious substance. It may be quarried the same as if it was marble. It is said that one man can quarry and wheel out five tons a dr'.y of this salt. It is only necessary to grind it to render it fit for table or dairy u>e. Sixty or seventy miles north of this, at the eastern base of the Dun Glen range of mountains, is the great Humboldt salt field. This is about fifteen miles long and six wide. In summer, when the surface water has evajiorated, salt to the depth of three or four inches can be scraped up from the surface. Beneath the surface is a stratum of pure rock salt of unknown depth. This rock salt is so hard, that in order to get it out rapidly it is necessary to blast it. Were a branch railroad to run to one of these deposits, salt would soon be a cheap article in the United States. As there are in the same localities great quantities of soda, borax and other valuable minerals, it is probable that the day is not far distant Avhen some of them Avill be tapped by branch railroads, which could be cheajjly laid down through the level districts. " My route to and from the Muddy settlements and Salt Bank lay mostly along the Kio Yirgin " river " (as most any stream is called in sections where water is scarce), the road crossing it in the quick-sand many times. The Indians (Piutes) had in cultivation a few patches on this stream, and the Saints had started a settlement, or two. But the bottom is too narroAv to till, except in garden patches. With the exception of bunch-grass, very wide apart, some sage and grease brush, the surrounding country is a barren, dreary, rocky waste. There is no soil on the highlands, even All about the Mormons. 53 if there Avas water. — The principal wagon route from Salt Lake to Los Angeles, Cal., leaves the Rio Virgin by the most rugged hill I have ever seen to be travelled over much with wagons. It is two or three miles to the top, steep, and crossed with ledges of rock. While I was passing it, gazing at one of a train, high up on the hill, as the wagon Avas being tugged along with a well doubled up team ; it broke loose, tumbled back, scattering itself between there and the bottom. I passed over the same route afterwards. The Mormons, as a people, are as prosperous, contented and happy, perhaps, as any other people, who have to earn by toil about all they get, and their government is so administered that they come very near getting, holding and enjoying all they make ; unless the tenth of what they produce, that goes for their general protection, welfare and enlargement, be excepted. Inasmuch, as they would need no costly protection^ if polygamy was not openly practiced by the few, so long as similar secret order governments of oath-bound brotherhoods (called "masons" etc., instead of "church") are tolerated by the people. The most of the Mormons dislike polygamy, and it may die. But it is not the Avorst feature of the system of Mormon- ism, as to the general governmont and the full-fledged citizens of the same, if the government is to be supreme and un- controlled by secret alien kingly governments within. There are but few salaried officials in the Mormon govern- ment — even the bishops draw no pay. The more able and am- bitious frequently acquire considerable and exceptional fortune, but it is made by rugged industry, or filched from Gentiles. They are not permitted to trick or rob each other of their property, under any pretext. Lawyers are kept from power entirely —they are treated as pests, as grass-hoppers and chine- bugs ; except sometimes in dealing with outsiders. It is the business of the officials and dignitaries of the order to counsel, advise and protect any faithful brother in ordinary business pursuits and in their troubles with each other and with out- siders. In case of trouble with outsiders, assistance is extended in usual and natural ways, and also by machinery of the secret order, which is worked in the dark. 54 Salt Lake City and Utah. They are a secret masonic order of various degrees, and bound together with masonic oaths, although there is nothing secret, sly, or mysterious in the first degree, whereby any per- son, and Indians in large numbers, are taken into the "church" or order without hesitation. They constitute a secret, mystic and complete government within, and distinct from that of the state ; an irresponsible and foreign government, to luhich they swear, loitli masonic oaths, supreme allegiance. But yet they are allowed to join in maintaining the forms and jDomp of courts and government of the Gentiles, for use in dealing with and filching the outsider, and as a fortress of pro- tection against them. Making of it a cat's-paw, a tool, a trap, a blind, a handy machine, worked and controlled by their secret, oath-bound obligations in the dark, where five men may overcome and override five thousand true citizens, which is very fine for the secret brethren. But the Gentile, or outsider, must suffer accordingly, for he has no assurance of security or justice, when treated or done for by either of the courts and governments thus managed and controlled in the dark. They are the power behind the throne, though it may be played so fine that, if the victim be ignorant, he does not understand it, and will blindly vote to sustain it. About the only verdicts rendered hj the courts of Utah against Mormons in good standing and influence in the order, are secured by special legislation of Congress, which Avould be overridden were Utah a state; and even in these comparative few cases, they have frequently beaten the cases against them by their secret influence in appeals, just as other masons do. Polygamy is but a red rag of masonry, the spears and knives to stab the government are hid behind it. The Chinese, Jews and Indians, in the United States, also cherish, maintain, and are governed by, a distinct alien govern- ment of their own; a state within the state. But tliey have the modesty to refrain, at least openly, from taking part in the government of the Republic. The}- do not intrigue and scheme for oflice under it, or to judge and govern anybody but them- selves, which they do by their own alien governments. They love their big sun-flower titles, and pagan pomp and "mysteries" of idolatry, and worship the shades of Mogul Kings. All about the Mormons. 55 Though such people be naturalized or born iu this country, they are not real citizens at heart of the Republic, but are practically foreigners, aliens, owing first allegiance and belong- ing to their own peculiar, secret, class and tijibal governments, ivherein is their supreme authority and laiu, ivhich they are sivorn by horrible, blood-curdling, masonic oaths and j^cnalties, to cherish and obey! What then becomes of our Government with these masons in ofiice ? Where is there any standing room for it with them in command ? They cut it up and prostitute it as they do the marriage relation, and wave it as another red rag — in another phase of their play— to divert the sight and sense of the j)eople, where- by they are thus shaded to get in their deadly work in the dark, thus working for universal conquest. The religious phase and the polygamy rag of Mormonism is but lightly considered by the more intelligent Mormons. It is their Government that interests and attaches them. They do not conceal this in individual discussion. They know the cor- ruption and prostitution of our Government so well, that, instead of joining to reform and clean it, they declare it an "ignominious and hopeless failure." And we must honestly concede that this is partly true. For, with the boundless natural wealth from ocean to ocean, the country even alreadj^ stocked with buffalo, elk, deer, fish and turkey, — the mass of the people ought not to be mere slaves to unrequited toil, corruption and tyranny. And could not have been much less prosperous under any other form of government. The Mormons, indeed, even under their masonic-pagan theocracy or kingdom, have been more prosperous than the mass of real American citizens that have surrounded them. This is also true of other secret masonic gangs elsewhere, and among the people surrounding them. But they have stabbed, drawn, sucked and fattened on the heart's blood of the Government and the people. Indeed, the prosperity of many an indiridual of the gang 56 Salt Lake City and Utah. represents the downfall, ravage and misery of hundreds of the people, — men, -women and little children. Such "prosperity" (?) need not be boasted of to be be- lieved. There ara too many victims who too keenly feel and sitfer theftwt of such "prosperity" continually At heart they do not like or respect even the form, or the great and beautiful sentiment of our government, which is the religion of real liberty loving Americans, who, in the face of all history and suffering, will fight to maintain it, work and vote to reform it, as their only hope for liberty and justice, and will never give it up for any gang, though they irrigate the ground with their blood ! Disdaining and detesting both the spirit and form of our government, as not secret, selfish, pagan and kingly enough for them, therefore, whenever they take part in it, it is not for it to Avork evenly, or to reform it, or clean it of the gang ; but to secretly conspire to corrupt, debauch and use it for a cat's- paw io filch the people, and for a fortress to shield them against their victims. But while scheming and playing for place and power in it, with brazen sarcasm, they sing patriotic songs and wave the American flag. A strong, centralized government like England or Germany might, if any, safely tolerate various foreign secret government rmgs within their own, as they cannot exert as much influence and power there as in a republic. Yet these governments have had to watch and keep down all secret, alien govern- ments and rings within their own, in order to keep their own power supreme and from being defied and overthrown. I believe, that belonging to any secret sworn brotherhood, disqualifies a person for the holding of any public office in Germany and other governments in Europe, Central and South America. Consequently Jews and other masons belonging to secret alien governments, are punished for their crimes like other people. This has to he so in rejmblics if they are to endure. All who vote or hold office under the general or state govern- ments, should be dependent on that government alone for protection, justice and government ; so that all would be All about the Mormons. 57 interested in its reform and purity; making the one govern- ment simple, safe, supreme and evenly just to all alike. Let those who are so selfish, clannish, crafty, sly-sneaking in the dark, grasping pagan and kingly as to not be satisfied with this, live and do as other and legal aliens do. For, aliens and often traitors they are. " When bad men combine [even by blood-curdling oaths in the dark], the good must associate, else they will fall one by one, an unpitied sacrifice in a contemptible struggle." "A monarchy may be free, whilst a republic may be a tyranny." When "servile millions kiss the spoUers' rod, crouch at their feet and tremble at their nod." As to the Mormon wing or phase of this vital subject, let us not forget that, like other communities, multitudes and orders, there are good, bad and indifferent people among them. A Gentile might live and deal with them for 3-ears without any trouble, if himself be just, and he does not oppose their system. Being friendly towards them, should he get into trouble Avith another Gentile or a Mormon ; the Mormon courts, as well as the other, are open to them. As they are both controlled by the masons, they stand a better show for justice in the more simple Mormon court, and if justice is what they want, both being Gentiles, they are quite surely satisfied with the result_ therein, which is not delayed, and they do not have to hui/ it ' there being no "bar." But if one is outspoken, or otherwise earnestly opposes their secret order system of government, he does not stand the ghost of a show for justice in Utah. In the case of a Gentile against a Mormon, or a Mormon against a Gentile, the outsider stands just the same show for justice that he does outside of Utah in a court or courts con- trolled by members of secret order brotherhood governments. Any observer can know, and all voters should know, the kind of a show that is, without learning by hard and miserable experience. " The whole machinery of the state, all the apparatus of the system of government, and its varied workings, end in simply bringing twelve good men into a box." As a rule, the Mormons deal honestly among themselves ; 58 Salt Lake City andUtah. sometimes, however, they have to kill or imprison one of their number for horse stealing, betrayal, or other crimes against a brother. They transact their business and run their courts tvWiout lawyers or other vermin, to which they owe much of their prosperity and peace. But this could he done just as icell by the 2)eopIe under our form of government. No honest court re- quires a lawyer in or about it. And the same price paid for their scalps by the state, as that now paid for more human and less destructive vermin, would make them harmless. The Mormons have no orthodox or salaried preachers. Everybody is expected to be able to render something of a moral speech in meeting, and, being raised to it, they are more apt and able in that way than other congregations. They ab- hor profanity, and think about all Gentiles to be immoral and profane. It was said by some, that I was the only Gentile they knew, who was not profane. They tell of mules, gotten of Gentiles, that could not be managed, or made to pull, unless swore at by note. Their poor and distressed are liberally provided for from a general fund ; there are none of them beggars. A large portion of them are emigrants from other countries and their children ; there are some from every section of the United States and Canada. The foreigners are principally English, Danes, Welsh, Norwegians, etc. , As the Mormons settled in Utah in 1818, and were quite a body before in Mis- souri and Illinois, a majority of them were " born in the church" or order, and on American soil. They are masons therefore more of necessity than of choice, —which cannot be said of Gentile masons, etc. They are now about 300,000 strong. The founders, chiefs, etc., were and are Yankee free-masons. They can pay to their brethren in Congress, courts and army big sums of money for bribery purposes and their ^mutual masonic obligations, and death penalties for betrayal insures secrecy and safety ; and they are bound to assist their brethren without pay. The Mormon endowment house ceremonies, oaths, obliga- tions, penalties, etc., etc., are masonic. The founders of the church-order set themselves up as an- other Moses or Mohammed, and their Sunday school books Ph (59) 60 Salt Lake City and "Utah. teach it as truth as to Moses. Their secret order " church " is, like other specuLative or spurious masonry, founded on hum- bug pagan "mysteries." Their bible being discovered and attached with about the same silly legend as that of the "Great- est jewel and mystery" of speculative masonr}^ They have the "mystery" bible of their own, but use ours principally, in which they are well versed. They have much of it memorized. They are much given to prayer, and always pray for salvation through Jesus. Not all of their dignitaries practice polygamy, and, according to the records of the "courts of justice," there are but few cases of polj-gamy in Utah. But according to my observations and more reliable information than ring-ridden courts, about one married man in ten of them is a polygamist. Though, for saying this of any one of them, he could prosecute me for libel at the people's expense, and say, " Damn you, prove it," and I could not establish the plain fact in the courts. Such is their secret influence and power at court. And it is as wide and extensive as masonry. The greatest comfort and protection a polygamist's wife has is in her children (they call the other wives of their father "aunt"). A boy will not see his mother abused or discarded if he can help it, which they often do. Still several sisters will frequently marry one man, one after the other, and the latter ones ought to know pretty near what they are about — as near as you or I could tell them. Those of the saints who have travelled about and abroad, preach of the immorality and depravity, and dangers of the outside world, and — like in other secret lodges — picture Utah and the folds of the order as the only place where virtue and truth is regarded and protected. They also make it appear, that all those who have taken an active part against them at any time, have been accursed by God and man ; that many of them have repented, and beg of them in humility and tears for mercy and forgiveness. If according to the courts there is so little polygamy in Utah, or if it be no crime ; nor a crime to make an occasional killing and tribute against outsiders — as is done by the gang everywhere with impunity — then the Mormons are an except- ionally moral, virtuous, civil, cheerful, industrious and prosper- Alt. about the Mormons. 61 ous people. By the court records tbey are most exception- ally virtuous. And if these questionable deeds are the work of a small element only, which I belie\e to be the case, then they are that anyway, and in truth. In four respects the Mormons are as far in advance of the Gentiles, as John Brown was of the republican party. First. — In that they permit no gangs of parasites or artful tricksters to practice among them, so they all know and understand their laws alike ; cases are judged and decided on their merits ; and not being so many middlemen, they get the profit of their labor. Second. — They first made woman suffrage universal, and they were no more "insulted" at the polls in Utah than at the post-ofiices. Those who would keep politics too secret, corrupt and unclean for their wives, sisters and daughters to know or touch, when their welfare and happiness is so greatly depend- ent on its purity, and who think it more out of place for an American woman to vote, than for an English woman to be chief ruler and make political speeches, should not complain when they reap the result. Third.^ — They carry out and enforce their temperance principles and laws, without flaws, quirks or foolishness. There are hardly any saloons, gambling, or prostitution known in their community. Fourth. — In their management of the Indians. And yet, an outsider really has not equal security or even justice anywhere where their alien government or secret in- fluence controls the government or courts, as could be vividly shown by the miserable experience of many falsely imprisoned, or robbed of their property, and by the bleached bones of so man}' others that have been "run over the ridge." Having, by secret intrigue, conquered the United States Army, etc., when in their infancy, and Congress and the courts ever since, they have strong hopes of complete control and of universal conquest. Polygamy is their red rag in the conflict. CHAPTER IV. Travellers I met in Utah. — Leave Utah for the Los Angeles, Cal., country. — The couipauy I travel with. — Danites. — The Indians on the roatl. — A Mormon "miracle." — Intliau dialect. — Sand storm. — A mine in the desert. — The region from St. George to California. — Arizona. — San Bernardino. — Los Angeles, and that country. — Climate, soil, people and business in 1867 and 1884. — Land, titles, etc. On the roads, or by the ways in Utah, I met, or fell in with — besides the local travel — wandering Gentiles like myself, army deserters — who were aided by the Mormons, as they hate and detest the Government they prostitute — companies of miners on horse- and mule-back, with camping outfits, from Montana, Idaho, Arizona, Mexico and other sections, bound for other fiekls abounding in riches for them, in their imaginations and faith. Years afterwards I again met some of the very same in other places, they were still prospecting. Soon after returning to St. George with my load of salt, in January 1867, I left the Mormon country for Los Angeles, Southern California, 450 miles distant from St. George, and 800 miles from Salt Lake City, much of which is wagon-wheel measurement. The company I travelled with was composed of three Mormons with their families, going to join another wing of the church which is presided over by a son of the prophet Joseph Smith, and is gathered principally at St. Bernardino, Cal., — they do not practice polygamy, which, I may here state, is not taught in the teachings of Joseph Smith, their founder. They considered it prudent to call their departure "a visit," until they got well on their journey, on account of the Danites of masonry. Also a wandering Canadian ; a mining expert — on his way to report to his company at San Francisco as to the mines recently discovered in south-eastern Nevada ; and Mr. Clark, with a hand, as he had two wagons with six-horse teams. He was chief of the party : a Mormon and polygamist, a clever man of exceptional large and wide practical intelligence and experience in the West and the world. Was going to Los Angeles for some stores and general store-goods for himself (62) California. 63 and neighbors. Had made the round trip to Los Angeles from Salt Lake or other settlements over this route twenty times on the same kind of business. The Indians living on the road, knowing him as their friend and customer, were glad to see him and called him "Dan." He left corn with them — giving them a portion — to feed on his return ; as we were now travelling over a vast mountainous, never to be reclaimed desert waste, destitute of soil, grass and even sage-brush in large portions of it for 250 miles, and very destitute of water, so each wagon was provided with a barrel for carrying water, and the animals had sometimes to do with corn or barley, without water or grass. At the springs and camping places are living or camping little bands of the most destitute and degraded Indians I had or have ever seen. They live mostly on a species of cactus, roots, snakes, lizards, etc. The shelled corn we gave them they would but slightly roast in the ashes, and flour they would make into a half cooked mush, and the whole group, big and little, eat it hot out of the kettle with their delicate lingers, which they apparently never wash. Are composed largely of renegades from different regular tribes, they being in bad standing and more or less out-lawed. Whenever we made a camp where there was some grass anywhere near, "Dan" would have the Indians turn over their bows (backed with sinew) and arrows (their only weapons) to him, and then turn our stock over to them to take out to grass, herd, and bring them in in the morning, saying, that if they wanted to run them off, they would do so anyway, and were more apt to steal them if he acted more distrustful towards them by the little guarding that we could do in a part of us going with them ; besides, they valued him as an old friend and regular customer. He had always thus trusted even these renegades, and they had never betrayed him. And it was their country — all they had in the world. After leaving St. George we forded the Rio Virgin river twenty-eight times — sometimes following in the quick-sand bed of it for a road— before we left it to climb the big hill to the west. This done, we had to return the stock way down back to the river for grass and water, as it was twenty-five miles 64 Utah to Arizona. to the next water and grass, over a rocky waste, which camp was on the stream 3Iuddy, that was settled on far to the south-east by the Mormons. Forty or fifty hard looking and nearly naked Indians gathered about us here, as was the case at the camping places beyond. The next stretch to water was about seventy miles to Vagas creek. Then water got so plenty that there was a little spring every twenty or thirty miles, till we got to a forty-five mile stretch, and there was no feed for three or four miles around the end of it. The next dry stretch was fifty miles, followed by one of only thirty-five, which brought us down to the Mohave creek, where it was called the "fork of the road." (160 miles from Los Angeles). One fork leading south into Arizona to Camp Cada, Prescot, etc. It being travelled by big freight teams, with five hundred dollar wagons, having high wheels and tires four or five inches wide for the burning sands of this Colorado desert, and often loaded with even hay for government stock hundreds of miles away in Arizona; government trains and troops, to rob the Indians out of such a country, and to enrich the gang ; a stage-coach and the mail, prospectors' outfits, etc. We took the other fork leading to the sea shore. We passed — about a hundred miles back in the desert— an abandoned barren quartz mine, that had been extensively prospected with shafts, tunnels, etc. ; and this without an expensive quartz mill. In order to sell mining stock, it is usually necessary to buy and be at work on a big mill — the bigger the better — as an assurance that the thing will pay to work. While the Sheriff was returning to San Bernardino from attaching the mine (?) for labor and supplies - as is also the usual thing — he was killed by the Indians. A child in our party was taken sick so bad, we thought it would die on the road ; so the brethren gathered around it and performed their sacred rite of " Laying on of hands " with prayer ; and as in a day or two the little saint was running about, their faith was kept whole. This " miracle " may be in their Sunday-school books now, and highly colored, to strengthen the faith of future generations. California. 65 One of the party had an iron ex-wagon, and of course on a rough road an axle was broken off at the shoulder. But these western mountaineers are never put back much by a mishap of that kind. In this case an unnecessary bar of iron was soon taken off the wagon, run through the wheel, and lashed to the axle. These people will set wagon tires on the road, shoe stock, make and fit most any part of a wagon without tools, except an ax, bit, chisel and monkey-wrench. Some Piute Indian words :— crovio — horse; murat — mule ; nepute or ninnie — little ; kawit— not any ; tu-wich — very much; tiri — tired ; sco-ri — cold ; shangry — hungry ; pe-up — big ; wino — good ; spits — spring ; congaroo — run or go fast ; shot-cup — food ; muggi — give me ; pe-nacka — mineral ; camusha — another; napeas — money ; oma— you. The bottom of the Mohave (moharvey), along which we travelled for many miles, was settled in a rude way by hard looking citizens, who kept some little accommodations, canned fruits and other goods for sale, as are usually found at frequented camping places on the much travelled roads in the West. The atmosphere was now more humid, mellow, and on ac- count of the change, which in itself is invigorating, it was more bracing, and was so delightful and spring-like from here on to the coast, that I have often regretted that my lot was not cast in such a lovely clime and country. Wild budding grape vines, green grass, — in places all over the ground, — flowers, trees, and even flowing water and singing birds could now be appreciated by us and enjoyed. No wonder Mohammed had the Moslem heaven well sup- plied with beautiful shaded rivers, green grass and flowers. A sand storm on the Mohave clouded the picture for a day, so we had to lay over on account of it. A few days travel now and we had reached and passed over the Sierra Nevada mountain range, and were in San Bernardino, where we tarried a day or two. This place contained (1867) about four thousand inhabit- ants, of Mormons, Gentiles and Mexicans, the latter being Gentiles also. It is in a valley made fertile and enjoyable by a semi-tropical climate and a good supply of water. Wood and 5 66 Utah to Arizona. saw timber is also plentiful on the mountain near b}*, whicli is a rare advantage over most other places in this climate. It has the " wood water and grass," that the miner and camping traveller so often inquires about, also the soil necessary for independent homes. This site was included in a Mexican grant, and was bought by the Mormons in early days, for a settlement of their own. But at the time the army entered Utah to fight the Mormons and enforce the United States laws, — as was supposed by out- siders — and the Mountain-Meadow massacre, and other tributes were levied against outsiders by the secret government, of which these Mormons were subjects, the anger of the Gentiles here-abouts, together with a call or order from the Grand Worthy head of their government, made them abandon their homes here and travel in haste to join their brother subjects in arms, at Salt Lake and beyond. Notwithstanding the great disparity in numbers, arms and equipments at that time, they say " we thought that we might have to whip the United States Army." However, the Mormons would fight, if diplomacy, secret influence and intrigue failed in securing their enlargement ; which is not probable, so long as they can meet on their level so many secret brethren in the United States Government and courts, who are secretly sworn to befriend them. I met and talked with parties on the road, here, and at Los Angeles, who had had experience in Arizona. Many of them would praise that country as rich in minerals (and perhaps it is in a few little spots) and in fertile valleys, saying, they would soon return to their valuable prospects or interests there, etc. But on close acquaintance they would curse and swear and paw the ground, declaring that any one who could be deluded to think of living, or making anything legitimately in such a God- forsaken, howling, burning wilderness — " where it rains only sand, and the only vegetation is thorns and thistles, which differ only in variety" — should be assisted in their going, and learn their folly as they had done. And the phrase "Arizona liar" was a common one. Instead of giving the lie direct, one need only ask the gentleman "if he had been to Arizona." I now comprehended the enticing tales like that of the %4V k ! ! V It? (l' 1 i \v o J. 68 California. "bullets of gold shot by the Apaches," — the "rich mines worked and left by the Aztecs," or later by others " driven out by Indians," etc., etc. Afterwards I knew different parties, well equipped with animals, arms, provisions, money, etc., to spend many months in prospecting there, but they always left it, dead-broke, disgusted and often on foot. It seemed there was no way to learn the truth of that section, except by experience or instinct alone. How would I know that the army officers, other officials, editors, judges, and other prominent and respected men in the West, were "Arizona liars." Our parents and books did not teach it ; our lecturers and preachers did not preach it, and the papers would deny it. It seems there should be somebody, to write plain, practical and truthful accounts of places, men and things, even if they are ridiculed and stabbed and nobody care. " Truth ever lovely since the world began, The foe of tyrants and the friend of man." I noticed much good country between San Bernardino and Los Angeles — sixty miles — but little of it was then in cultiva- tion. Much of this land could then be bought for ten, fifteen or twenty dollars per acre, now it is from one to two hundred dollars an acre. The soil is mostly a bed of sand, but with water it can be made to blossom as a Moslem paradise. There are some spots, however, where corn and other grain and fruits are grown in great abundance without irrigation. A few miles East of Los Angeles I remember riding over a level sage-brush and cactus stretch of several miles in extent, and also over the roll- ing hills between town and the sea, which were thickly covered with a kind of wild rank clover ' up to my knees,' which, how- ever, would be dried up in Ajjril or May. The streets of Los Angeles (Lost Angels) follow the wind- ings of old stock trails, but there were some fine brick buildings and residences with tropical trees and gardens, that are lovely, indeed. Los Angeles was an old Mexican town of six or seven thousand inhabitants. I think a majority in the county was then (1867) Mexicans, Indians, Chinamen, etc., and that the sheriff was a Mexican. Tlie moneyed men were Jews and secret-ring army contractors, who were making big fortunes M 70 California. out of the people in tlieir contracts for cavalry horses and all kinds of supplies, and the freighting of it into Arizona and else- where (the government spent about 4,000,000 dollars in this •way, at this point, each year) ; and they acquired large bodies of land and other valuable properties accordingly. Common labor was twenty-five dollars a month. At some out-of-the-way places and at the saw-mills near San Bernardino labor was from forty to fifty dollars a month, and the favored contractors would sometimes allow outside freighters to make a few dollars by sub-contract and doing the work. The Mexican population were mostly engaged in cattle, horses and sheep. Mustangs — the common horses of the country — were sold by the band for about seven dollars a head. Large droves were being driven to the territories and the states ; were worked in- to the government service at round prices, and stage companies all over the coast were using them largely. In exceptional dry seasons the poorest of the horses have been driven over bluffs into the sea by the thousand, to save the feed for other stock. At such times, where the ranges are over-stocked, cattle, horses and sheep die by the many thou- sand in summer ; the same as they more frequently do in winter on the ranges of the north-west. " Los Angeles, January 11th, 1884. Southern Cahfornia, owing to its cUmatic position, being midway between the temperate and tropical, is known as Semi- Tropic Cahfornia. It has about 280 miles of sea coast, with an average of 40 miles in width. This city is the commercial center of Southern California There are three things that soon at- tract the attention of new comers. They are, the mild, salubrious climate, the wonderful productions of the soil and the beauty of the scenery. In speaking of the first, we notice from the signal service record that the average temperature of winter for six years was 52 degrees; for summer 67 degrees. The average difference between winter and summer is but 15 degrees. The temperature seldom gets to the freezing point in winter, or to 100 in summer. The cool sea breeze in summer gives an eveness to the temperature. There is really neither winter nor summer here but year in and year out is one continual season, similar to the P>3 o c o 72 California. Indian summer of the Eastern States. Flowers bloom in pro- fusion all the year; and, as an evidence that but little cold weather is experienced, we see sub-tropical plants growing out doors in the yards and hedges ; geraniums and French roses bud and bloom all through the year. Tomatoes bear all the year and for two or three years on the same vines. Castor beans continue to grow and bloom from year to year, until the stocks get to be as much as six inches in diameter. Sorghum continues to grow from the same stock for years. Ripe strawberrys are gathered every month in the year. All kiuds of garden vegetables grow all the year. "Spring chickens" are a misnomer here, for they are raised all the year round. The lawns, fields and bluffs are greenest in the wintermonths, and more hay is fed in the summer, when the earth is dry and parched, than in the winter The larger tracts of land are being subdivided into five, ten and twenty acre lots, and sold to settlers for fruit raising purposes. In this way the country is settling lip very thickly. The lands within five miles of the city seU, unimproved, for ] 00 to 300 dollars per acre ; when improved and set in trees or vines, and having had five or six years' cultiva- tion, with good dwelling and nice surroundings, they will seU at from 800 to 1000 dollars per acre Evergreen trees grow here all the year. The range of rugged mountains to the north or northeast, with their peaks covered with snow, and the blue ocean and magnificent sunsets to the south and southwest, is a fitting margin to the intervening picture. Upon a high eminence in the city we get a view of the surrounding country. A circle of three miles in each direction from the court house wiU almost take in the city limits, — not all built up yet, but ■\^dthin that radius are 25,000 inhabitants. The sight is a lovely one. Many fine, palatial residences, with surroundings lovely as an idea, and thousands of acres stretching far away, thickly studded mth orange, lemon, lime, olive, palm, cedar and cypress trees, with numerous semi- tropical plants, flowers and vines, make the scene one of rare beauty Large orchards of the English walnut, almond and other nut-bearing trees are quite common. A part of the city is built upon the bluffs, from whence a grand view of the surround- ing country can be had. The transfers of real estate within the city and county for the last two years foot up about 20,000,000 doUars. J. S. F." 74 Cmjfornia. There are now many smaller towns, but similar to Los Angeles, throughout this section. Wells are bored and dug, and wind mills largely used in irrigating the land. And all the running water is appropriated for the same purpose. Notwithstanding the apparent and real natural advantages of this section of country, the people, as a rule, were not pros- perous and contented. Secret gangs of lawyers in conjunction with brethren in office in the State and at Washington, had con- spired to cloud, mix, disturb and shatter the regular and legal titles to the greater part of the lands in the State; and to then, with the courts (composed of themselves), wring tribute on tri- bute from every man, woman and child who would own and till the soil. " Yes," some said to me, " one can buy land here, but he never knows when he is done buying it, or when the title is settled for certain ; that is all with the lawyers and courts, and is never really settled." " Doubt, insecurit}', retarded progress, litigation without end, hatred, destruction of property, expendi- ture of money, blood-shed, all these have resulted." If ever is truly written a complete history of but the land troubles in California alone, it Avill be wondered that lawyers are not outlawed and destroj'ed — not as men but as snakes, wolves and pests to society. " The man of law Cunningly could he quibble out a flaw, And scratch men's scabs to ulcers." Its f«OM les t»ocic5.'ou''0ro i"« MH« sK»r M tNttLtt. tomttp laeo i ^ ', ? ■>^t;^^- ^-/J MISSION SAN JUA« C-lPiSTRAUS. 10 Hilts SOUIK.WOEO :-^^ts^i-if \*/. i:-:^ -vi^-^ *■*-•«• 4.-*:- is- ^ -f^«=- ,7T6. SUN lOUlSREY MISSION HO MUtS SOW I H. f OUKOtO ITJJ- Tropical Pl^^ts and Historical Buildings. (75) CHAPTER V. Xteaye Los Angeles for a new mining camp in Nevada. — The stock of a train captured by Indians. — "Death Valley." — Eighty-seven families, stock, etc., perish. — The surrounding region and its products. — How- teamsters are revenged. — Compi'ehensive description of the mining camp.^ — " Hiirrah ! hurrah! we have striack it, hurrah!!" — A big Indian. — How Mining Co. officials steal. — Indian and white men hung. — The mode of government and trial. — Wages, living, business, etc. — The geological formation of mineral lodes, veins, fissures, etc., and placer mines. — Prospecting for and locating claims. — The right time to sell, etc. — Why mines are guarded with rifles. — How stock companies operate. — Why newspaper accounts of mines are not re- liable. — The real prices paid for mines. — How stock, etc., is made to sell. — One and a half year's experience. A.T Los Angeles I formed the acquaintance of an agent of a mining company ; lie was forwarding by freight wagons a quartz-mill and supplies to their "rich and extensive mines" at Pah Ranagat in south-eastern Nevada. This was a new and glowing mining district then — at a distance, and he easily in- duced me to go to the mines with the train having the machinery. I was to run the engine of the mill at eight dollars a day. Mr. Agent remained behind a few days to start and ac- company an outfit of four wagons, four men, and thirty-five or forty mules and horses, with mining supplies. When on their journey, having camped for the night at an alkali spring on the desert, about 250 miles out from Los Angeles, two of the men being out with the stock, some Indians swooped in on them and run them off, to eat them ; except two that struck for camp (as is quite usual), and one that was tied to a wagon. Then three of the party stayed with the wagons, while the other two returned and procured other animals. '* Yet happier those we name (nor name we wi'ong), "Who the rough seas of stormy life along Have sailed contented ; by experience taught Those ills to suffer, which their errors (or theu* fate) had brought. With placid hopes each torturing pang beguile, And welcome every sorrow with a smile.'' (76) Mining Camps. 77 We travelled a different road part of the Avay to San Ber- nardino, then took the same I have described, for about 250 miles, when we turned north for about 200 miles (waj^on wheel measurement), to the mining camp of "great possibilities." After leaving the Mormon road, we found water at from twenty-five to forty-five miles travel — one of the stretches being thirty-five miles. Passed along the border of Death Valley, said to be below the sea level. "The Valley of Death. — A spot almost as terrible as the prophet's ' valley of dry bones/ lies just north of the old Mormon road to California - a region thirty miles long by thirty broad, and surrounded, except at two points, by inaccessible mountains. It is totally devoid of water and vegetation, and the shadow of a bird or wild beast never darkens its white, glaring sands. The Kansas Pacific raih-oad engineers discovered [?] it, and some papers, which show the fate of the "lost Montgomery train,'' which came south from Salt Lake in 1850, guided by a Mormon. When near Death Valley, some came to the conclusion that the Mormon knew nothing of the country, so they appointed one of their number a leader, and broke off from their party. The leader turned due west, and so, with the people and wagons and the flocks, he travelled three days and then descended into the broad valley, whose treacherous mirage promised water. They reached the center, but only the white sands, bounded by scorching peaks, met theii" gaze. And around the valley they wandered, and one by one the men died. And the panting flocks stretched them- selves in death under the hot sun. The children, crying for water, died at their mothers' breasts, and, with swollen tongues and burning vitals, the mothers followed. Wagon after wagon was abandoned, and strong men tottered and raved and died. After a week's wandering, a dozen survivors found some water in the hollow of a mountain. It lasted but a short time, when aU perished but two, who escaped out of the valley and followed the trail of theu' former companions. Eighty-seven families, wdth hundreds of animals, perished here; and now, after twenty-two years, the wagons stand still, complete, the iron- works and tu-es are bright, and the shrivelled skeletons lie side by side.'' This region produces many varieties of cactus ; some being a foot in diameter and about twenty feet high, and in spots like a thick forest. The dead trunks made good camp fires. 78 California to Nevada. There is alkali and soda in extensive banks and quite pure, so tliat, when it rains, the water running from it looks like milk. There is also petrified wood, chalk hills, vulcano craters and lava flows, and dry lakes, five to ten miles in extent, smooth and hard as a floor. Lizards, centipedes and Indians bask in the sunshine, each apparently contented with his lot, and sometimes there are vast swarms of grasshoppers, but they fly away. It was said, that the freighter who brought the mill, had the faculty of tricking his men out of their wages, so that on reaching Salt Lake they stole the burrs from his wagons in revenge. I found a mining district, and a county (Lincoln) had been organized, embracing the mountain spur, containng the mineral bearing quartz rock, — the highest peak (which was composed of barren quartz) being some 9000 feet above the sea— a small watered valley, fit for farming and stock raising, ten or twelve miles away, having large flowing hot sulphur springs, and enough of the adjacent country for an extensive grasshopper and lizard range, and to show big on a map. There were five little camps ; three being in the mountain, and two in the valley, — one of which was the county seat and the other had wanted to be. They each ha^dng water — both hot and cold. One of the three camps in the mountain was supplied with water from a spring, three or four miles away, at ten cents a gallon ; each of the other two had small springs. There was some timber (pine) on the mountain, and lum- ber was whip-sawed for $150 a thousand feet, also a good deal of scrub-nut-pine for fuel and producing food for the Indians. The district contained a migratory, ever changing popu- lation of about 250 men, from every quarter and station ; less than a dozen women and children, and the usual complement of Indians. These Indians are simple as children, and degraded in their habits, but as proud, patriotic and jealous of their posses- sions and fame, as a subject of the white Mormon secret state. Their chief had recently met the Governor of the State (Nevada), and to impress him with their equal importance. (79 80 California to Nevada. addressed him thus: — "Tou big chief: il/e big chief too; You own Virginia City, Austin, Carson, etc., etc. : 3Ie own all of this, that, and the other mountain, and all of these valleys, waters, etc., etc. ; You heap big son of a b — h : 3Ie all the same." There were now three quartz mills in the district, with more to follow, and most everybody had "feet" in mining claims. One had sold for $50,000, and they were singing, " hurrah ! hurrah ! ! we have struck it, hurrah ! ! ! the Gentiles have struck it in southern Utah." It was at first thought to be in Utah. Miners' wages were six dollars a day, mechanics' eight dollars, and boss mill builders' twenty dollars. But there was not much employment to be had ; there being always an ov^" supply of men, and the pay was mighty uncertain. Merchants charged, on an average, about 300 per cent, profit on their goods, expecting this to be somewhat reduced by bad debts, as credit is seldom refused. There was no smaller change than tweniy-five cents, which was the price of drinks, etc. Board, fourteen dollars a week, though "baching" was the rule at an expense of about one dollar a day. Flour, thirteen dollars a hundred pounds. Sugar, butter, coffee, at seventy-five cents a pound. Boots, thirteen dollars a pair. Grain and potatoes, ten cents a pound. Hay, fifty dollars a ton. Wagon spokes and ax handles, one dollar to one dollar and a half each. Hard lumber, one dollar and a half per square foot. There were similar mining camps, 150 miles and more away ; and Mormon settlements as near as 175 miles, which sent in their produce. The Mormons like to have mining camps spring up around them, for the market they afford them. They thus got six dollars a bushel for all their surplus wheat for several years, other produce in pro- portion. The mines, and the California and Oregon bound emigration trains, and United States troops constituted their markets. The Mormons never mine themselves, except for wages. The counsel of the order being against investing any money in mines ; knowing, that as a business it does not begin to pay, except with other people's money. There being no home influences or comforts in mining Mining Cajits. 81 camps, the saloons are the universal place of resort, for com- pany, business and pleasure. Stores and saloons are frequently connected. And all men are expected, as good citizens, to con- tribute towards making things lively and times good for those who do not work, hj spending their money for whiskey, in gambling, and at the stores. Those Avho would do so freely, and in advance, stood the first show for employment, — as good as those who were secret ring brethren. An employer could thus throw money into the pockets of brethren behind the counters and tables. Men seeking employment, on going to such places, should be broke and forthwith run saloon and board bills, and let them hustle up jobs for them. Mining superintendents get a salary of about $5000 a year, and what they can safely steal ; which is in proportion to the amount of business done and money handled. They are usually ring brethren of the chief men of the company, with no business ability or character necessary for legitimate success ; but they must be cunning in their stealing and trustworthy in dividing. Expenses incurred are largely increased in the books, this is one of their ways. I knew the bookkeeper of a management that had him add one hundred per cent, to all expenses, or so it would average that. $100,000 expended in a quartz mill, can be made to blossom into $376,911.09 in the books to the out- side stock holders ; other expenses likewise. There were state and county ring machines of government here, but they were discarded by the people for the government of the plains — carried in every man's pocket, or swung to his belt. For example : — an Indian having killed a white man, was, with others, captured, tried without lawbooks or lawyers, and hung ; the others being acquitted. A white man, of considerable eminence in the states, murdered another for his money ; he was likewise given a fair, open trial and hung. An employer undertakes to trick his men out of their money; knowing that he has it, one of them presents a pistol at his head, with the proposition to pay or die — he pays. A boisterous desperado undertakes to " run the town," runs against some quiet little man, who kills him in his disgust at the cowardice of the famed bullies and toughs of the camp. 6 82 Califoexia to Nevada. The people were not afraid of, or prejudiced against tlie professional gambler and sharp, but they had no use for the mysterious midnight trickster and confidence man. I have noticed that the more frank, generous and honorable of men, who have had experience with the different govern- ments, prefer this government " by the people, for the people," to that of gangs of lawyers ; because secret gangs do not protect what honest industry procures. While the selfish, grasping, criminal natures, who would get on by secret intrigue and the misery they make, are wed- ded to the lawyer gang system. " They are never happy, except when they destroy The comfort and blessing which others enjoy." As to the geological formation of mineral lodes, veins or deposits, let the curious, as to this, imagine a mountain in a molten state ; then towards and at the surface it has become cool and hardened, with a seething, blubbering mass of molten quartz, mingled with mineral, shaken, settled or run together, still in a state of volcanic action underneath in tho bowels of the mountain ; the volcanic action, being now more confined, becomes more violent, and the mountain above cracks oi3en, in one or more fissures or cracks ; the seething, blubbering mass of quartz-rock and mineral boils and spurts up into the fissures or cracks, till their sides (" wall rock ") are smooth as glass ; it finally cools and hardens there into solid mineral-bearing quartz-rock. If it is pressed, spurted, or flows out at the sur- face of the cracks, then out-cro23pings are formed, and bowlders and bodies of this mineral-mixed lava are mingled with the surrounding surface of the mountain ; perhaps, in time, this is partly or completely covered wath other rock, soil and vegeta- tion. Usually it appears that nearly, or all of the mineral-bear- ing rock had thus flowed out and scattered about, and the fissures or cracks had then settled back or closed from beneath, or else filled up with ordinary rock or lava, which may crop out and be scattered about also. Or the fissures, cracks, may be filled with quartz, barren of mineral ; nearly so, or except in spots (called " bonanzas " or " pockets "), or except in perpen- dicular streaks (called "chimneys"). There are plenty of ledges, fissures, etc., in quartz and mining districts that are not loded Mining Cajvips. 83 with metal. But gold and silver is usually formed or mixed with the character of rock, called quartz. These cracks, fissures or lodes may be very deep, farther down thau has ever been reached by man, (about 4000 feet). When deep, they are called true fissure veins, and trend in direction with the range of mountain - usually northerly and southerly. But they usually contract with depth, " pinch " or "peter out " at a short distance below the surface ; this is most always the case, if rich in the precious metals, otherwise they would not be precious. If there is no out-cropping to a ledge or lode, and it is covered with the country or common rock, or with ground, it is called a " blind ledge " or lode. Imagine again, that the mountain, on cooling, had many surface cracks or seams (which, when leading to or springing from a main or larger one, are called " spurs ") and also cavities, caves and pockets, and that a portion of these are filled with the flowing and rolling quartz, more or less mixed with mineral. In lead districts, molten lead and rock seems to have flow- ed for many miles, filling up the holes and low places in the way. Afterwards, other flows of lava have more or less covered these deposits aud formed stratas of rock over them. After- wards, earth-quakes and the wear of water may have changed the lay of the land. In a mineral district, the ledges or veins of quartz-rock — either barren or containing valuable mineral, such as gold, silver, copper, lead, etc.,— also all of the bowlders, scattered bodies, filled cracks, holes, deposits, etc., showing signs of mineral, are, when discovered, each located as a mining claim aud recorded. A mining claim may (in late years) embrace as much as twenty acres of ground. The richest rock is, as a rule, found at or near the surface of the ledge ; though richer pockets may be found deeper down. The rich rock of the "bonanzas " struck deep in the great corn- stock, was very low grade, compared with that found at the surface of the ledge. When one has a quartz claim and can find a man with money, who thinks the rock will improve, or that the ledge will widen out as depth is attained, sell it to him, quick. However, it the rock will pay to work, he and his partner 84 California to Nevada. can blast it out and sell it on the dump ; have it worked bj some one of the mills that are alread}^, or will be, built, if there is a prospect of much pay rock anywhere around. Or, if it is rock that is not difficult to work, they can put up an erasta, hitch their horses to it, and work a ton or two of rock a day themselves. But a claim that has really good prospects in sight, can be sold, for more than it is worth to work, to some gang of mining sharps who will work it oflf for a yet larger sum, with a " half interest " or stock game, to " raise money to develop or work it," etc. A good mine, or a good prospect even, does not need to be advertised or puffed in newspapers to find a customer. It tvould he foolish to 2)ut up ten dollars on any- thing that might he written in a neiospaper about a mine. If it is a big bargain, do not think that the owner will hunt up strangers to favor with it, or permit them to enjoy it at all. If a mine is really rich and is to be honestly worked, it is to the interest of the owners, in various ways, to keep its value hid as much as possible, and they never fail to do so. Persons that have never owned enticing property, have no idea of the midnight conspiracies, that set to work to rob the owner of such properties. The gang conspires to have the courts in the hands of secret brethren, with whom they can secretly and safely deal, and then, by hook or crook, some little technical error (?), done for the purpose to get the pro- perty in the hands of the courts. Or the gang may " jump " it, when, if they are not killed, the court comes to their assistance, by taking and keeping the case in court until the mine is work- ed out— twenty or thirty years, if necessary. For example, a clerical error (?) of, I believe, but a single word, done in the patent to McGarahan, w^as excuse enough for the courts to take his mine, give it to some brethren, and keep it in court as long as the owner lived — about thirtj^-five years. Besides, taking all the means he could raise meanwhile. So that it is necessary to defend such property with rifles and shotguns, which is often expensive. And there are other reasons, as can be imagined, why rich strikes are concealed and not advertised. In prospecting a new locality for quartz mines, one rides through the gulches and ravines, looks for pieces of quartz or "float'" rock, which ma}' have been washed by the elements Mining Cajips. 85 from ledges or other bodies of it above. If any promising pieces of rock are found, the hills and mountains above where it was found are carefully looked over, to find where or what the " float " was detached from. The distance it has travelled is judged by the amount it is worn. Frequently the out-croppings, bowlders and other surface quartz, as heretofore described, have decomposed and been washed, with their gold, down into the gulches and streams, with gravel, and other dirt washed over it-thits forming tJie Placer mhies. There were, perhaps, one thousand mining claims located and recorded in the Pah-Eanagat district. I had first seen speci- mens from some of them at Salt Lake ; they were highly colored, and enticing to look at. This is one way of advertising a mining camp and particular mines : I mean, to exhibit rich pieces of ore. But the ore in this district was base ; that is, it contained besides silver, sulphur, antimony, copper, iron, lead, etc.; it being therefore refractory and costly to mill, separate and work. It was also very hard to drill and blast. Then it was a low grade ore, say ten dollars to thirty dollars in silver to the ton of rock. Pieces could be selected that would assay very high, while much of it was quite barren. There is generally one principal or main ledge in a mining district, and one only ; the rest being smaller cracks, spurs, bowlders and other little bunches of quartz. The principal ledge in this district cropped out boldly, ten or fifteen feet high in places, was two to ten feet thick, and was traced more than half a mile in length, certainly a fine prospect for a true fissure vein ; but it did not prove to be so. The country or common rock was limestone, in which formation I believe there is hardly, if ever, any true fissure veins. Granite is the most favorable formation, it being composed, in part, of quartz. Still this ledge had depth enough to produce a great deal of ore, and so had various others. But the distance to water, to which the ore and wood had to be hauled, the high price of freight and labor, and the incompetent and swindling manage- ment would not allow such rock to be worked at a profit. The discoverer of the main ledge secured the greater part of it, and sold it to a stock company for $50,000, which did 86 Califoenia to Nevada. the usual thing in expending perhaps $1,000 a day, for two years, in salaries, etc., building mills and furnaces, blasting tunnels and shafts, producing a few hundred dollars in bullion and selling stock. Suppose the management sold three and a half tons of stock to outsiders for $1,500,000, and their actual expenditure to have been $500,000, then they made $1,000,000 in two years. Moreover, had they developed a valuable mine, or struck it rich, they would have shut down just the same so as to buy the three and a half tons of stock back for about the cost of the paper and printing, and would not allow the mine to pay until this was accomplished. This done, the "bonanza" would be uncovered, bullion produced, and so magnified and adver- tised as to re-sell the stock for ten times the real value of the bonanza. Think not, that they would sell the stock or mine or any portion of it at a good bargain to strangers ! Much less that they would spend money like water in advertising and hunting up strangers to favor thus. A smaller claim (400 feet long), supjDosed to be of the same vein, was discovered to a man b}^ an Indian for about fifty dol- lars, who sold it for one hundred and fifty dollars, which then went into a stock or share company. Don't know, how many "ten thousand" dollars were written in the deed, nor does a seller care. Another claim, located as an extension to this, was sold by an intelligent and practical miner for a saddle horse ; which claim also went into an eastern stock or share company, with its big-salaried officers — ignorant as Indians as to legitimate business and management. They each bought mills, etc., the first thing, as though their rock would pay to work and their saddle horse claims had been develojjed into true fissure veins. One of them produced three or four hundred dollars in bullion. How much these masons made by selling stock, shares, "half, quarter or tenth interest," depended on how many idiots of outsiders they found willing to trust their money to secret gentry of a charitable (?) order, thus leaping into the dark, — and how well they were fixed with money. It was the agent of one of these latter companies that I met at Los Angeles, and one or the other of them I worked for the greater part of my stay of about a year and a half in the district. Mining Camps. 87 I and another man had a contract to furnish the greater part of the timber and joice for the building of their quartz- mills and furnaces. It had to be sawed or squared with whip- saws. The price was one hundred dollars per 1000 feet in the woods. We could saw about 300 feet a day. Gave a man with three yoke of oxen thirty dollars a day to snake the logs together. Then I worked in the mines at sis dollars a day, and for two or three mouths was night watchman at the mill, etc., at seven dollars a night. The mills, etc., being completed, spoiled the sale of stock, as the rock would not pay to work, and the companies, being in debt for labor and supplies, let the property go, and the agents skipj^ed out. They owed me about one thousand dollars, for which I had their notes, which I placed in the hands of an ex-Chief Justice of Utah for collection from the company in NeM' York. I also corresponded with its president and agent; got some encouragement for several years, but never got any money. There were other companies besides those noted, that operated, more or less, on other ledges in this district ; but what I have given is a fair illustration of the others and of quartz mining generally in the many other quartz districts. A few other persons besides th'ose alluded to, made some money by selling their claims, and some others got away with a few hundred dollars, made by working for wages or on contracts. But the most of the money, made by selling claims, working for wages, or otherwise, that was not spend for whis- ke}', etc., was squandered in prospecting, in one way or another, as I did. There were prospecting parties out for hundreds of miles in all directions all the time, in some of which I was always in- terested. One of these went into Death Valley and beyond, thinking that it ought to contain lots of mineral, if it was "very good" for anything, as it lacked in everything else but sun- shine and sand. They found but slight prospects and returned, riding and packing the shadows of death. If artesian water can be got, and it is not salt, this valley can be made very productive, there being plenty of sand and climate. 88 California to Nev.^da. The Pali-Kanagat mining camps were entirely deserted (the population going to White Pine), and the county organiza- tion was abandoned, when the taxable properties would no longer sell for the salaries. It was never of any use to the people. The little watered valley now supports a small Mormon settlement. Yet there is much silver-bearing quartz in the mountain, which, with improved facilities in working the ore and in trans- portation, with honest and intelligent management, will pay to work, as a legitimate business, and pay welk This is a fair sample and example of many other districts with which I became acquainted ; so to describe them would be but to substantially repeat, what I have written as to this one. But as White Pine was " heap big " c-h-i-e-f, as to fame, excitement, population, richness of its ore, big swindles, fond hopes and regret, and as I was there from its rise till it tumbled down, I will give my information and experience briefly, concerning the same. CHAPTER VI. Tlie mines, conihmed. — Exciting reports from a distant mountain. — Outfit one of a party to go. — What he wrote me. — "Ho ! for "^Tiite Pine ! " — The richest silver mine ever discovered. — The pui'e stuff. — I go, too. — Visit another cami^ on the way. — My horse and saddle "borrowed." — A big camp ablaze with excitement. — Belief that the stuff could be found anyAvhere by digging. — The many thousand "mines," — "Bril- liant schemes." — Blubbering investors from the states. — Life: gamb- ling, drinking, business and damnation. — Making big sales, etc. ; the outcome.— Another year and a half of lively practical experience in the mines. — The many smaller camps in the surrounding region. — Virginia City and Gold Hill. — The great Comstock lode. — The Bonanza and other great stock gambling mines that we read of. W HEN stories, tliat the since famous Eberhardt mine (then, and yet declared, and perhaps truly, to be, and to have been the richest in silver ever discovered in the world) had been struck at White Pine, I outfitted one of a party to go and prospect the mountain in its vicinity. It succeeded in locating a claim as near as one hundred feet of the Eberhardt itself, besides others, as enticing ; and with glowing prospects or faith, forthwith blasted a hole forty feet deep into the former. Somehow it was believed, that the stuff could be struck, as lead is often found, with little or no surface indications, most anywhere in that vicinity. My partner embraced an opportunity to send me a letter ; he wrote, "We have one first-rate lead and continue to work on our shaft. Shall know this week whether we are in or out of luck. They are striking it all around us. If we do raise the color it will be rich, sieve." On my way to White Pine — 150 or 200 miles distant — I stopped a few days in "Grant district," with a prospecting party, with whom I was likewise interested. They had formed this district. Had discovered and were prospecting some quartz ledges, and the prospects and outlook were such, as to induce parties owning a ten-stamp quartz mill to contract to move it there, set it up, and give and take a half interest in each. The mill was then on the way, one of our party having gone out on the trackless desert to meet the train and pilot (89) 90 . The Mines of Nevada. them into the mines. The rock, however, was refractory to work and not rich enough to pay at that time — or so it was made to appear. But some years afterwards I read that these mines were being worked. I was riding a horse and saddle, for which I had paid $150, (having other animals with pros- pecting parties) and on approaching White Pine left them in the care of an old friendly acquaintance, who was then keeping a horse ranch, — that is, herding horses for the miners and others who were stopping up in the mountains, where there was no grass or water — where the winds beat against the bleak and barren cliffs, and the birds never sing. I told him, as a friend, to use my outfit as his own, on any needful occasion. He after- wards did so ; having sold out, he rode it out of the country — not even calling around or sending word to thank me, or say good-bye. Found White Pine ablaze with excitement. The hills and mountains (^9000 feet high), quite thronged with men, eagerly and confidently at work with pick and drill, hunting for the precious ore. The Eberhardt mine was at its best, turning out, with common rock, nearly pure virgin and horn silver by the ton. Bowlders of which one could bore an auger through. A guard of several men, armed with rifles, guarded the mine at ten dollars a night each, to keep it out of the courts. A Governor of Colorado was killed by mistake, by his own men, who were thus guarding a mine of his. And Uncle Sam likewise guards his silver at the treasury, and with grape and canister, wherein he decides not to be robbed — having no con- fidence in his own courts. I note these only as prominent examples of a common custom and necessitv, to stand ready to kill men in defence of mere property. Why should not other classes of robbers, those who pillage b}' secret intrigue and treason, be^likewise killed in the act ? Deposits or bodies of ore, more or less rich in silver, were found in various places, some of which lay flat like coal. This, with the magnified flaming stories and rich strikes, that were continuall}* flying in the air, increased the excitement to such a pitch, and as the Eberhardt itself was but an irregular body of ore at or near the surface, that it was the general im- Thrilling Experience in the Mixes. 91 pression that this district was nature's freak, so that silver could be found for a mile or two of the Eberhardt, as readily as lead is found in galena districts; and that it was "rich, sure." Moreover, there were many small lead deposits in the "base mettle range," in the district close by, which always carried silver. There were also many well defined ledges of quartz (but which were prospected in vain). So tunnels and square holes were being blasted by the hundred. In many cases without any surface indications whatever, or other pros- pects, except that had by some other claim in the vicinity. Shafts were so thick on "Chloride Flat," and in the vicinity of the Eberhardt, that the flying rock, from the numerous blasts in the lime-stone, made it dangerous to be about them ; this with labor at five dollars coin a day, or by contract at twenty dollars per foot. Thousands of such claims were located by private parties and companies such as ours, who would largely bond and sell to speculating mining sharps, who are expert business men. As "great successful lawyers" win with their secret power in packing juries and buying judges, so the expert business miner effects his sales by selling stock and buying other experts and agents. They making the most of the far reaching, wide spread excitement ; newspaper articles, (often in editorials, as though the editor was a practical man, had made a personal examination, had written the thing himself and was telling the truth) and in various devices of the profession, often succeeded in effecting fabulous sales to the good people in the states and in Europe. As it is easier to get a big swindle through Congress or a legislature than a little one, so it is easier to sell a worthless mine for a big sum, than a small sum, as enough is thus afford- ed to buy the thing through, and leave a surplus. Such were the " mines," in which so many, at a distance, hopefully invested (and so did we who were there). Sometimes mining companies, forming at a distance, would not bother about the little matter of any claim at all, except in the mind, as not needing them in their business ; to the great surprise of au occasional troublesome investor, who happened to come out to visit the famed (at a distance) " silver king," etc., the idol of 92 The Mines of Nevada. his heart and purse, and could not find or even hear of it in the district. These men made a great deal of trouble now, since they could travel mostly by rail ; when in former times they were just as useful in "developing the country " and were not in the way. I was told of such imaginary claims, and others of mere bowlders or holes in the limestone, that were stocked for from $500,000 to $2,500,000, and that by working famed and titled gentlemen's names as directors, etc., and have them and editors puff up the scheme, the stock would sell at a " discount " so as to leave a large surplus. If the expert business men in Nevada and their brethren in the big cities had had their way, these meddlesome, wailing lambs would have been snatched up and buried in prison, a censorship placed over their correspondence, and the railroad ripped up. But they were somewhat off-set and put down by other visitors, such as a famous "select party of Chicago merchants." They travelled in a special train and stage coaches, were met with a brazen band ; made enticing, flaming reports as to the general richness of the mines, predicted that " the world would be amazed at the wonderful and immense streams of silver that would flow from White Pine to enrich the people of the earth," and, no doubt, made money in the business. Of course, the entire press in the U. S. would gladly publish, unquestioned, the reports from such " good authority " and attend them with flattering editorials ; when they would spurn to notice, except to kick and condemn, the stories of the bank- rupt, "blubbering, revengeful investors, who would make trouble and injure gentlemen in their business." Yet some- how they would get in their work, so that foreign capital had to be invited, and even it got too shy and expensive to leave any profit. Besides quartz-mills, furnaces, etc., that were building, there was Shermantown, Treasure City and Hamilton, populous mining towns, that were springing up rapidly, with lumber $400 or $500 per 1000 feet, etc., carpenter wages eight dollars a day, (board fourteen dollars a week), and lots selling for four, five and six thousand dollars, and often with titles badly clouded. Thrilling Experience in the Mines. 93 Men were pouring iu from every camp, section, state and clime. Every store included a bar, to graciously assist men in their joy at selling a claim or town lot, and in their many disappoint- ments and sorrows— for two bits (twenty-five cents) a drink. Sjjacious gambling houses, etc., with all sorts of games and en- ticing coin stacked high on the tables, to accommodate the lucky and the luckless in breaking them both. Eich strikes and big sales were daily reported, most everybody was in high spirits and expectations, many being wild and some crazed with the flaming excitement with which the very air seemed charged. Many who had sold claims were wildly spending the money, always expecting to sell others for a stake to go away with and keep. One who was a card-sharp, gambled off $30,000 in a little while. The mine recorder and assistants were kept busy filing the 15,000 or more claims that were recorded, and business generally went on the jump. Yet hundreds were hunting for employment or to borrow a few dollars. Two or three daily and weekly papers were soon being published. All the water at Treasure City and the mines cost ten cents a gallon, while works were being constructed to bring it up from a small stream three miles away, at a cost of $250,000, only to be abandoned or torn up soon after its completion. In about a year and a half all this faith, bustle, business and surging wave of eager men had changed to disappointment, disgust and desertion. The prevailing question was now, how to get out of the country and where to go to, as this state was now blistered by the light of the outside world, and a railroad was running as near as 120 miles, and wires were stretched into the camp. Not a single extensive paying mine or fissure vein of ore had been discovered, and but a few small paying deposits, not any containing a fortune, except the cause of all the flattering tales, rush and conflict of men, — the Eberhardt. And it was now virtually worked out, sold, and incorporated to sell again and again to Englishmen, by its fame. Shermantown, from a population of 4000, Treasure City of 7000, besides the many hundreds of outside cabins and small 94 The Mixes of Nevada. camps for many miles around, were now, in a few months, al- most entirely deserted. But Hamilton with its 5000 inhabitants, being the couuty seat and capital of a region extensive enough for a state, held on to a few hundred. This district and the sur- rounding regions are strangely marked with numerous deserted quartz mills, roasting and smelting furnaces, shafts, tunnels and habitations, — lasting monuments of ill-spent time and wealth. Still there is a great deal of mineral-bearing rock in the mountains of Nevada, that will be worked in the future. Having acquired interests in di£ferent claims at White Pine, some of which appeared quite promising, which were bonded to sell for various large sums (the poorest one— near the Eber- hardt — for enough to make us each a fortune) and being still at work in prospecting others, I felt, like so many others, greatly encouraged as to the outcome. Once a telegram came from San Francisco that a big sale had been accomplished, and our money Avould be deposited that day. But it transpired that in a succession of agents, ex- perts, etc., sent by different members of the company formed to buy, there was one, and only one, and the last one to report, that was not convinced by those in charge of the business at the mine. His unexpected adverse telegram meanwhile, was a fatal blister on the mine and sale. If he had given them any warning, they could have cut the wire and secured the coin. And as the reaction and collapse of the camp came almost as sudden as the blaze was kindled, none of our big. sales were effected. I therefore shared with the thousands of others in the general disappointment. Way back in the wild, cannibal infested, fever-stricken jungles of South America or Africa, is the best place to locate gold and silver mines. However, I made some money by small sales, by sinking shafts and running tunnels at twenty dollars a foot. In one claim we had a body of ore that appeared to be quite extensive, it being solid ore fifteen feet deep, as far as we sunk in it. But on having a few tons of it milled, it produced but about thirty dollars a ton, which would not pay at that time. Some of it Thrilling Experience in the Mines. 95 assayed at the rate of one hundred dollars a ton. As it had not the appearance of a regular vein we abandoned* it. Doubtless it was afterwards worked out by others. This was the "Union Standard," at the base of a high rock bluff, about three-quarters of a mile north of the Eberhardt. Virginia City and Gold Hill were built up during a similar excitement ten years before White Pine. But there proved to be there one mammoth, true fissure vein — 400 or 500 feet thick and more than two miles long — the Comstock lode. In this are the "Bonanza" and other famous stock gambling mines of Nevada, some of which are being or have been pros- pected to a depth of 3,500 feet, and to drain it to about 1900 feet down, the Sutro tunnel was run 20,178 feet. But even in this great fissure lode — the greatest gold and silver vein in the world — there are many mines that have never payed to work as a legitimate business. One of these has ex- pended millions of dollars in prospecting, Avithout finding any pay rock. I believe it has never produced a dollars worth of bullion, though "Bullion" is its name. "Record of Assessments and Dividends of the Comstock Mines. Fifty mines have each collected [1881] more than $100,000 in assessments, and eighteen more together have collected $735,000. In this estimate is not included the assessment by companies which have been dissolved or incorporated in others. These fifty mines have levied $58,723,000 in assessments. Of these Yellow Jacket leads off with $4,878,000; Savage with $4,809,000 ; Sierra Nevada, $4,200,000 ; Bullion, $3,850,000 ; Hale and Norcross, $3,409,000; Belcher, $2,268,000; Ophir, $2,988,000; Gould and Curry, $3,2UG,000; Crown Point, $2,423,000; and so on through the list, there being seven- teen mines w^hicli have gathered in over $1,000,000 in assessments. Of the seventy-one mines on the Comstock, seventy have levied assessments, amounting in all to $59,458,000, and only 96 The Mines of Nevada. fourteen have paid any dividends. These fourteen are as follows, with their dividends : Con. Virginia, $42,930,000 California, 30,950,000 Belcher, 15,307,200 Crown Point, 11,688,000 Savage, 4,460,000 Gould and Curry, 3,825,000 YeUow Jacket, 2,184,000 Hale and Norcross, 1,598,000 Ophir, 1,594,000 Kentuck, 1,252,000 Con. Imperial, 1,125,000 Sierra Nevada, 102,200 Confidence, 78,000 Darney, 57,000 Succor, 22,800 Total, $117,173,200 An examination of this list will show, that only six mines have paid their stockholders more than Ihey have taken from them. These are Belcher, California, ConsoKdated Virginia, Crown Point, Gould and Curry, and Kentuck. One who is familiar with the Comstock, will see at a glance that all these mines have been largely owned and controlled by the Bonanza firm. So, when you say Consolidated Virginia, California and Belcher have paid $89,277,200 in dividends, you may also add, that three- quarters of this amount has gone dh'ectly into the pockets of Flood, Mackay and Fair. The outside investors have always come in just as the dividends ceased, and have invariably been on hand to pay assessments. California never levied an assessment. Con- sohdated Virginia only $411,000. The bulk of this stock has always been held by the Bonanza firm, and its $74,000,000 of dividends represent a good part of their colossal wealth, gained in the last ten years. The army of small speculators have put their money into other mines, and have been allowed the privilege of paying for working ore, whose chief value lay in the elaborate analysis of well-paid experts. An illustration of the methods employed on the Stock Ex- change is furnished in the recent rise and decline of Alta. It was Thrilling Experience in the Mines, 97 selling at one dollar and sixty cents, and was a comparatively- dead stock. Suddenly mysterious rumors spread around, that the diamond drillings had shown a rich ore body. Soon these rumors were confii-medby the superintendent and others in control, and they privately advised their friends to buy up all the Alta they could lay hands on. Of course, this reached the street in a few hours. Alta bounded up to five dollars, then on to ten, and, within a week, twenty dollars, and afterwards to twenty dollars and fifty cents. A vast amount of stock was bought. Suddenly it was hinted, that a gigantic 'deal' had been made by the management who, in turn, tried to make it appear that the superintendent had ' salted ' the drillings and thus got good indications. Confidence was shattered ; there was a wild rout, and the stock fell rapidly from twenty dollars to three dollars and fifteen cents. When there was talk of an official investigation of the mine, the lower levels were conveniently flooded with water. This is but an example of many other swindles. A short time before a very bad ' deal ' was made in Belcher, and it was found necessary to flood the mine, when the outsiders had all been fleeced. There is a growing sentiment among the people, which demands that some check be placed upon the lawless schemes of those who, for years, have fleeced the credulous by swindles that would make a faro-dealer blush, and have driven thousands to suicide and crime. *' 1882. — We [committee] consider the management [of Bullion] recklessly extravagant and characterized by a total dis- regard of the rights of stockholders. With reference to the Belcher and Crown Point mines, the Belcher mine has produced from May, 1881, to December, 1882, 28,154 tons of ore, the value of which we are unable to determine [it being a ring secret]. Such e\'idence as we could obtain placing the value at from thirty to forty dollars per ton. This ore was sold in the mine for fifty cents per ton, and the parties [brethren] buying said ore were allowed to use the company's shaft and works to raise the ore to the surface. We find, the Crown Point mine produced from March, 1881, to December, 1882, 68,457 tons under similar con- ditions, and it was also sold for fifty cents per ton [to brethren]. These mines are still producing about 5000 tons per month on the terms as before stated. These two mines are managed badly and with a total disregard of the rights of stockholders. 7 98 The Mines of Nevada. The proxy system enables people who do not own any stock, to control mines and run them in their own interest. " ' Tis sad, but His ivell. — 1883. — There is something peculiarly sad about the decline of Virginia City. The story of its rise and its character in prosperous days, reads like a brilliant flight of imagination. No other city in the world was ever like it. Its business, its wealth, its prodigality, its wickedness— each, in its way, was peculiar. And the desolation which now so contrasts with the rush and glitter of the palmy time, is a desolation the like of which has never before been seen on the American continent. Eight years ago Virginia City and Gold Hill, adjoining each other, had 35,000 population. It was the largest community between Denver and San Francisco. There were merchants doing business with a million capital. There were private houses that cost $100,000. There were stamp mills and mining structures that cost $500,000 each. There were three daily newspapers, and a hotel that cost $300,000. Among the people were a score or more men, worth from $300,000 to $30,000,000. Mackay and Fair both lived there. There were three banks, a gas company, a water company, a splendid theatre and a costly court house. Eight years have passed and the town is a wreck. The 35,000 people have dwindled to 5000. The banks have retired. The merchants have closed up and left ; the hotel is abandoned ; the gas company is bankrupt, and scores of costly residences have either been taken to pieces and moved away, or given over to bats. Real estate cannot be given away for taxes. Nothing can be sold that will cost its worth to move away. The rich men have all gone. Those who remain are the miners, their superintendents, and the saloon men and gamblers. The latter are usually the first to come to a mining town and the last to leave. The cause of this decadence, which has swallowed up millions of capital and wrecked the worldly ambition of thousands of persons, is the failure of the Comstock mines to turn out additional wealth. Since its discovery, in 1860, there have been taken from that single vein, in a space of less than 3,000 lineal feet, no less than $285,000,000 of gold and silver, and of this about $110,000,000 came from the Bonanza mines alone. Exclude Flood, Mackay, Fair and Sharon from the list, and those who have preserved the fortunes, made on the Comstock, may be counted on one's fingers. But the millions upon millions that have been sunk in the whirlpool of speculation are almost incalculable. San Fran- Thrilling Experiences in the Mines. 99 Cisco is to-day full of financial, physical and moral wrecks, by the treachery of the great Comstock and the illusive hopes of the gambling multitude." And the Comstock was the great gold and silver lode of the known world, having yielded, it is said, about $500,000,000 to date. CHAPTER VII. Building the U. P, and Central railroads. — A general rugged prospecting tour of seven months in Nevada, Idaho and Montana. — On to Wash- ington Territory. — The country, climate, soil, scenery, fishing, hunt- ing, incidents, etc., etc. — Finding the true source of the fine gold in the Snake and Columbia rivers. — The more famous of the Idaho Placer mines. It was February, 1870. The U. P. and Central Pacific Rail- roads were completed a few months previously. As the Government had given these companies more money and other means than was required to build the roads, they could afford to, and they did spent it with an oj)en hand in rushing them through. This made times good and lively along the route, so that money was made rapidly in various ways and channels of trade, by live men, with but little money capital. For example: one with a few pony teams could make a stake in a short time, in grading or teaming on or along the road. The wages paid were high — five dollars or more per day for a fifty or sixty dollar team, and driver, to scrape, etc., and the wages were doubled for night and Sunday work. Several of my acquaintances had left the mines for the railroad, and had done far better than we, who remained to dig it out of the ground. The Northern Pacific railroad had now been chartered by Congress, with a land grant more than sufficient to build and equip it, with a provision, that the road had to be built immedi- ately, or the Empire of land would revert to the people. There- fore, it was the talk and general belief that it would be pushed through at once, and that the opportunities for earning money on the N. P. would be good, if not equal, to that on the U. P. and Central. The glittering prospects in the mining regions were blasted since the railroad was built, but I was not yet quite satisfied to give up the chase ; mainly, because of my love of travel and adventure, and I would now have the advantage of my previous three years' active experience in quartz, making me somewhat expert in the business. (100) (101) A Canyon. 102 Idaho and Montana. So I concluded to now make an extensive, general prospect- ing tour through the wild mountain ranges to the north, for both quartz and placer diggings, and for the pleasure of travel; and if unsuccessful in finding any ground enticing enough to cling to, would terminate my travels at Puget Sound, or else where near the proposed route of the Northern Pacific railroad. Accordingly, during the succeeding seven months, I visited several mining districts and camps in Nevada, Idaho and Montana, and prospected, more or less, the mountain ranges intervening. Was in the Owyhee, Upper Snake and Salmon river regions, and in the mountains at the source of the Jeffer- son Fork of the Missouri river. I noticed some spots of pretty good farming land on the Humboldt river in Nevada, about the northern line of the state, and in Idaho, also in Lemhi and Bitter-root valleys, near the summit of the Eockies in Montana, also much good grazing country. But I saw far more that is i agged, shaggy, barren and forbidding. I talked with immigrants from good localities in the Western States, and on asking one why they chose to leave what I considered fairer sections of country to live in, to settle in such a wild region, he answered : that these valleys were like the places they had left — very enticing at a distance ; or in his own words, "they are hell a good ways off." Neither had filled the pictures of their imaginations. Was at the two great falls of Snake river, 175 and 260 feet fall, and enjoyed some beautiful scenery, but the most of it is dreary and distressing. Had good fishing sometimes, — in the upper Snake there were plenty of salmon trout, weighing ten or fifteen pounds, and very fat. Game— including bear, wild- cat, etc., — was likewise quite plentiful, though not by any means as much so as we usually read about, and is generally supposed. Climbed over snow-clad mountains— wading and plunging in the snow in July, and the next day or two would be suffer- ing with heat in some valley below. Generally found plenty of company in various prospecting parties. Many of these men were highly learned and experi- enced in the world, and of fine feelings, while even the others M^lti :P>Ji H O CM w GQ ^ o w o K m (103) 104 Idaho and Montana. are agreeable companions for a time, to one who knows how to take them. I will note a little incident of many, I would like to give, in illustration of the generous traits possessed by many who despise the selfish, sign- and grisp-machine charity (?). Meeting a party of miners with their pack animals on their way to a settlement and store for supplies, (they being settled and working a Placer claim) I borrowed a pocket knife of one of them, as we stopped for a moment to talk, as I had lost my own. He would not receive it back or any pay for it, " as he would soon be where he could get another," he said. It was a fancy one, worth three dollars. They also furnished some of our party with provisions in the same way. We had never met before, and never expected to again. If we should go with them to their rough cabin home, we could see gold dust in a segar box on a shelf, or in a powder keg, and as long as it lasted no one would be allowed to pass them by in need. Those who experience in themselves and appreciate in others the pure pleasure in these unguilded, unselfish, genial traits, should be judged in kind whenever they fall among pro- fessional " charitable " brethren, as they are pretty sure to do sometime, being neither cunning nor cruel. Having a good outfit, permitting nothing to worry me, and having no great expectations to be shattered, that season of travel was mostly a picnic. The rugged side was in fording rapid and rocky streams, and others having deceitful bottoms of mire; crossing steep, rocky gorges, and through African jungles, woven with fallen timber. My horses became so accustomed to climbing, jumping and sliding, that they were so reckless of danger, that their often superior judgment could not be trusted. Sometimes, however, they would pick their way and somehow get over or through places, where one could not see any possible way, when often a mis-step would send them tumbling to roaring waters in the rocky gorges, hundreds of feet below, and when weary, would jump at the opposite side of a ditch or against a ledge, or fallen trees, when they knew they must fall back. Sometimes flies and mosquitoes were so thick and masonic, that we had to blanket our horses for a slight protection ; so it The Idaho Placer Miisks. lOo was no wonder they would leave us alone with strauj^e Indians, to take up with their horses that were free. But a small number of horses, if their leaders are kindly treated, are not apt to leave a camp unless they know of better company near by. And a single animal will hardly ever leave its rider in a strange and lonely place. My pack-horse was no more trouble in travelling, than a dog — being as sure to follow. Once on the side of a deep gorge he fell, rolled over a time or two and landed against a log. After he had climbed back, I, with my foot, started the log tumbling to the bottom, which I could not see. While more lost and separated than usual, I was twenty- four hours without water ; the day was hot, got past being thirsty and became sick, so the water did not taste good when I found it, which I did by my horses scenting it at a distance. Found beaver quite plentiful in places. In their work is displayed a reasoning faculty equal to that of some men. In felling trees for dams, they cut them so as to fall where they want them. One night we were all awoke by the rumbling sound and three distinct shocks of an earthquake, but could hear nothing about it on reaching habitations. Ice sometimes formed at night at our camps, in July and August. My whereabouts that season were so uncertain, that I re- ceived letters which had been re-mailed half a dozen times. As to the golden object in that season's prospecting: — Found several prospects in quartz, about equal to that I had left in Nevada, and in placer diggings many places that would yield one to two dollars a day, but none that would probably pay to work at that time. The whole country had been pretty closely prospected, and the paying ground worked. I was now satisfied as to this, and tired of the business, of the mountains, and of rambling about in this way. I learned, that times were pretty good in Washington Territory, and horses were cheap in the Walla Walla section. So I decided to go there and work at whatever I found to do, and buy as many horses as I was able, to work with on the N. P. railroad, whenever its construction was commenced in earnest. 106 Idaho and Montana. Arriving at Fort Owens, in Bitter-root valley, Montana — which valley was then being settled and improved — I found myself on one of the proposed routes of the N. P. K. K. "With a single companion struck West through the mountains by the Lo Lo Indian trail for Lewiston, Idaho, and the Walla Walla, Washington Territory country, fifty or one hundred miles beyond it. Lewiston being situated on the western verge of the pan-handle of Idaho, near the head of navigation on Snake river, 400 miles from Portland, Oregon, and 495 miles by water from the mouth of the Columbia river. On the way to Lewiston, we fell in with a couple of rail- road surveying parties, who were hunting for a route ; also numerous Nez-Perce Indians, on tlieir way home from hunting buffalo and fighting the Sioux on their own or neutral hunting grounds in the Yellowstone country. The Grouse, or "fool hen," is a bird of the same family, it appears to me, as the partridge and pheasant. They differ from each other in about the same degree as do the Chinamen, Esquimaux and Indians. Inhabiting different climates, and compelled to live by different modes and food, may account for all the difference found in them. As to the difference in dialect, this can be comprehended and accounted for by observing the same in different local districts among the same race of white men — in those of the East, South and West— after so short a time and with such comparative free and frequent communication and mingling with each other. We found this bird so plentiful and tame at many places on this trip, that we could kill most any amount of them with sticks, as we rode along. Camped by a hot sulphur flowing spring on this Lo Lo trail, and enjoyed a bath in its blue waters where it formed a pond, cool enough for comfort. These mountains are craggy, but thickly wooded with much good timber of fir, tamerack, spruce, cedar and pine. On the western slope are some fertile prairie valleys, and on approaching Lewiston (twenty-four miles east from where I finally settled to make a home) found ourselves in a good prairie farming country, though not inhabited, except by Indians. Here we found a Government Indian Agenc}', also a The Idaho Placer Mines. 107 military post and the American flag. We called at the post for information as to our whereabouts. Afterwards I sold grain here that I had raised. There is fine, light gold in the bars of Snake river, any- where from near its source to its confluence with the Columbia (150 miles below Lewiston), also in the Columbia and Salmon rivers, which was supposed by many to come from some fabu- lous rich fountain or quartz deposits in the rugged mountains at the rivers' source. But we had found this not to be the case, but that the rivers flowing, as they do, through a gold- bearing country, where a color can be found most anywhere, got their supply from the natural washes and streams tributary to them, with the annual wash of sand, gravel, mud and drift. Hundreds of Chinamen and some white men mine, with rockers, on the bars of these rivers, during the low stage of water, mak- ing one or two dollars per day. Orofino, Warrens, and other rich placer camps, which created such excitement and brought Idaho into notice in the states, in 1860, are in these Salmon river and Clearwater moun- tains. Lewiston being their point of supply and wintering place. Its climate nearly equals that of the valleys of Cali- fornia. For a year or two the lowest price for supplies was one dollar a pound at the mines, and they created a splendid market for many years ; which started many into farming in the Walla Walla country, and gave it and them a good start in the world. The old Indian and packing trails to Walla Walla and beyond are ten or fifteen in width, and tramped deep in the fertile soil ; and mining is still going on at those famous camps, and pack trains are still trailing to and from Lewiston. I had been acquainted with different ones in Nevada, who had travelled through this country from California and Oregon, and dug gold in these mines, so I had in advance quite an accurate idea as to each. CHAPTER VIM. A comprehensive description of the Walla Walla country; soil, climate and productions, and the lay of the land. — Hire out on a farm for two months. — The secret of success and failure in government and corpo- ration contracts — Secret intrigue at military jDOsts, etc. — Experience in work in the mountain. — Locate a land claim and get married. — A year's experience. Arrived in Lewiston about the middle of September, 1870. Crossed the river into Washington Territory, and travelled north-west for eight miles over a somewhat sterile grazing country near the river ; when I came onto a wooded creek with narrow bottom (the Alpowa), inhabited and farmed somewhat by Indians, for a few miles, and by an old Yankee bachelor who kept a hotel and stage station, and raised cattle. Said, he had found it to be the best economy to provide flour, instead of other feed, for his stock, when the weather was such that they needed feeding. (It was at the head of this creek, to the south- w^est, that I afterwards built my home). Leaving this creek by a big hill, and riding for ten miles over a level bunch-grass prairie (destitute of water and wood, but a belt of timber was plainly to be seen twelve to fifteen miles to the south), when I went down another big hill on to another creek (the Pataha), having a bottom quite destitute of wood, and about a quarter of a mile wide for twenty-five miles to Snake river. The upper portion, reaching back into the Blue mountain about thirty miles, being still more contracted and more wooded. All of it, from its source to its mouth, is quite fenced in by high, abrupt hills on either side, and so is the Alpowa. From the top of these hills, vast, thickly-planted bunch grass prairies extend north to Snake river some fifteen miles, and south to the timber of the Blue mountains about the same distance away. These prairies, however, are more or less cut up with ravines and gulches, are scantily watered and com- pletely destitute of wood. I found this creek bottom, or the most of it that was fit for cultivation (the lower portion), settled up and farmed, but the adjoining prairies were entirely unoccupied, except by a few bands of cattle and horses belong- (108) Locate a Land Claim and get Makried. 109 ing to the creek settlers. The farmers here were threshing their grain with a ten or twelve horse power machine. They had to collect and change work with each other for a distance of ten or fifteen miles to form a threshing crew. They being short of help, and I having but a few dollars left, stopped and worked for them a few days, at two dollars a day, which seemed very small wages to me then. The yield of wheat, oats and barley was thirty to sixty bushels to the acre, and the up-prairie land appeared equally as fertile. The nights being always cool, this is not a good corn country. Following this creek for eleven miles, it changed its course to the north, while the road and old Indian and pack trails left it by winding up a hill 700 or 800 feet high, thence over a level prairie for a mile, when I looked down into a Canyon (Tu-Canyon) 1200 to 1500 feet deep, having a stream with wooded bottom, a few hundred yards wide. The wood on these streams is mostly cotton-wood, birch, alder and pine. A few spots on this stream were being farmed for hay, by men with stock, as a safe winter retreat. Crossing this Canyon, I found, spread out as far as I could see, another similar vast rolling fertile prairie country, with richer hollows, coves or bottoms, and blessed with an occasion- al spring or stream of good water; but wood still to be seen onh* in the one direction — many miles away to the south. After about eight miles of unbroken prairie, I found the hollows and choice spots by the road settled, and more or less farmed, according to the time, means and energy of the settler in haul- ing fencing and other wood, fifteen to twenty miles — there being no barbed wire then. On approaching Walla Walla, the country was more thickly settled and improved, there being streams Avith more extensive bottoms, bordered by less abrupt hills, and wooded sufficient for immediate fencing and domestic use. Though much of the soil along these streams was not as productive as that of the hollows, or even the extreme upland prairies, until made so by irrigation. Near Walla Walla the lay of the land becomes less broken by ravines ; but to speak of this Walla Walla country as a 110 The Walla Walla Country. valley, is misleading. The stream Walla Walla has a little narrow valley to be sure, but it don't amount to much, except in rare spots. The same is true of even the Columbia, Snake and other rivers at a distance from the coast. They might have had broad fertile valleys or bottoms, like the Sacramento, Mississippi, Ohio and the Mohawk, but they hav'nt. I mean to give a true and comprehensive, though brief description of Eastern Washington, and the settling thereof, such as may also give an accurate idea of that north of the Columbia and Snake, as well as of that portion of Idaho adjoining, as these sections are similar. With their fertile soil, each has its deeply embedded streams, narrow vales and ravines, steep and long hills and sections of rocky waste land, or suited only for graz- ing. Each having its mountain range, for timber and wood supply, to tap the rain clouds and giving variety of climate and scenery. Singular though it may seem, during the most severe winters the mercury sinks lowest in the lowest altitudes, and snow falls there quite as deep at such times as elsewhere. Stock have wintered with less loss in hard winters, on some opening back in the mountains, than others on the Columbia and Snake rivers. The best lands are usually found near the mountain ranges, and the lighter, dryer and poorer soil as the Columbia and Snake rivers are approached, though irrigation would, and sometimes does, where practicable, make this the best, and the springs are a month or more earlier here than at the higher altitudes, and less snow usually falls. But it gets ten to fifteen degrees hotter than on the upland prairies ; it being sometimes one hundred degrees and more. And it is covered with a bank of cold fog for several weeks in the winter, while the sun is shining bright and warm on the high prairies. Every four or five years there is a hard winter, when the mercury sinks to twenty or thirty degrees below zero for a few weeks. But where there is an open range that has not been over-stocked, horses that are not worked will winter all right without feeding ; and cattle need to be fed but a month or two, and some winters not any. The warm trade or "chinook" winds from the South- Pacific are a great blessing to this country in winter ; they Locate a Land Claim and get Married. Ill come with black clouds — as a thunder shower comes, and sometimes bare the ground of a foot of snow in a day or night; but they cannot be counted on. The winter winds from the opposite direction are stinging cold. I continued my journey from Lewiston for about sixty miles, to near where Dayton was afterwards built and become the county seat of a new county (Columbia), composed of a part of Walla Walla county, which before embraced all the region between the Columbia and Snake rivers and the Oregon line. Since, Garfield and Asotin counties have been formed out of Columbia. Dayton is on the Tou-Chet (Tii-she) stream, and this section was then known as the "Upper Tou-Chet." I hired to work for a farmer for two months, at $35.00 a month. — This was the first and only good farming country I had seen since leaving Eastern Nebraska, over four years before, except that in Salt Lake valley and in Southern California. Here I found improved farms with orchards, barns, colts, calves, lambs, geese, chickens, women, children and girls in their teens, with an occasional buggy or side-saddle to be seen. So considering me having been raised on a farm and at home, and then having been for about five years roving about— a homeless wanderer, in wild, unsettled desert regions, unblessed with the innocent prattle of children or the voice of women — is it any wonder that having become tired of such a life, I was impressed, as the plains-tired traveller is on reaching Salt Lake and Los Angeles, with their fruitful trees and vines, mead- ows, flowers, singing birds and flowing streams, and as Mohammed was when he beheld Damascus and exclaimed, that "man can enter but (*ne paradise." I worked with a threshing machine, as it changed about for the man I hired to, for a couple of weeks, and was impressed with the bountiful yield of grain, the ground being new and only the choice spots in cultivation. I then put in the most of the remainder of the two months in hauling rails and wood from the mountain for him. My employer was related to one who had recently been a Government Indian agent, and himself had been engaged at an agency and military post ; and I having before and since be- come intimately acquainted with Government contractors, etc., 112 The Walla Walla Country. and also with intelligent agency Indians (one of whom wrote for me the story of his life, which I may give), together with my personal observations, enabled me to become informed con- cerning aJffairs at such places and the mode by which ring favorites get fortunes and outsiders are crushed in dealing with Government secret ring agents or officers. I will give a few points for the information of those who are curious to know how it is, that one man can take a Government contract for supplies and make money out of it, while his neighbor, possess- ing superior business abilities, would lose money. For example, will consider the grain, hay, wood and horse supply. The allowance of these, as with other supplies also, is usually greater than is necessary for the service. Proposals are duly advertised for a certain quantity or amount of either, (it being the full amount allowed or to be suffered for a certain time), the same to be of "the best quality," or "per sample," and to be delivered by or during a stated time, or at the pleasure of the Grand Master, as the case may be. Now this time may be while the roads are almost impassable, and while the outsider will be required to fulfill the contract to the exact letter, the secret brother, who can be relied on as to " division and secrecy," under the obligations and penalties of the ring, knows that the time will be modified to suit his (their) inter- ests, and that the quantity, with him, need only be such as is barely necessary for the service ; though the full amount allow- ed is receipted, booked and paid for. Thus are favorite con- tractors and their gangs enriched by government and corpora- tion contracts, even when the figures are heloio the market price. In the West but comparatively little forage is necessary or really used, as the stock usually runs out to grass on the ranges all the year. In buying horses and mules, none but those fully up to the standard will be received from a full-fledged citizen of the Government, while from some one who is a sworn subject of a lurking, foreign, pagan-government, most anything in horse or mule shape is often taken. I have known several men who were badly bitten by count- ing on some of the concessions always accorded to secret sub- jects. The difference in the cost between a favorite and out- sider in filling a contract is often twenty-five to fifty per cent. w o -51 a o o 114 The "Walla Walla Country. An example given me by the party wlio furnished the wood, and who had occasion to procure full proof of the following ex- amples of loyalty : For the post, and the year alluded to, the Government allowed and paid for 575 cords of wood, at $5.50 per cord, equal to $3,162.50 ; while all that was really bought or paid for was 350 cords, at $2.50 per cord, equal to $875.00. What per cent, of loyalty is that ? They also received from the Government, that is not good enough for them, pay for 500 rations at a time, supposed to be issued to the Indians, when the highest number was really but forty-five, and this of condemned stores. What per cent, of loyalty is this ? Now take the annual appropriations of Congress, and see what sworn secrecy-under-horrible-penalties in office is costing Uncle Sam in money alone ! My informant as to these mere examples, said, he reported these facts, with the indisputahle proof thereof, to two city editors, but they, being subjects of the same secret government, would not publish them. That he also reported the same to the Government at Washington, to find that the influence of their secret government extended there also and was supreme. And jobs were put up against his life, and the courts were prostituted to get him out of the way, so he could not make any more trouble with their " mysteries." When extra transportation and supplies are required, as in case of an Indian outbreak — which is often purposely induced by the lurking subjects themselves — they get contracts to supply it at fourteen prices, and then sub-let it to others, who do the work and furnish the supplies for small pay. After a gang has made such a raid against the Government in the name of the Indians, and has the plunder divided up and secured, ilicn a few journals, as a cloak for their servility, come out of the dark as follows, but they dare not strike at the root and secrec}' of the evil; and they are brazen in the assumption, that the officials at Washington do not know the " true inward- ness " of these jobs in advance, after forty years' experience iviih the same game. "The Government has finally begun to see the 'true inward- ness ' of the xVrizona ' Indian war,' and peace may be looked for Locate a Land Claim and get Married. 115 now any day. Not a solitary Indiau was killed, not a sin-le pioneer miner, or any other man who minded his own busine"ss was molested, bnt several enterprising [?] men made a million or so, a piece, out of the scare ; and it was started for no other pur- pose Crook broke the Apaches' backbone years ago; the pooi- wretches haven't vim enough left to fight a coyote." When my two months' job expired, the most profitable ^^ork I had learned o was that of making rails and clap-boards n the mountain for the farmers living out on the streams and hollows Rails were worth twenty dollars, and clap-boards fifteen c ollars per thousand at the stump, and the timber- tamerack, fir and pine— split well. There was a small company of men thus engaged, who tried to discourage me, saying, that on account of the scarcity of money there was only a small cash demand for such work I, however found that it could be readily traded for stock' especially horses, which was good enough pay for me. So I bought an outfit and six months' supply of grub and went to work in the timber where I split my first rail and clap-board. Shingles were also being made there, by hand, at four dollars and hlty cents per thousand. I worked here the most of the ensuing ten months, and though not very rugged, and unable to do as much hard work as other men, I made 8000 rails and 55,000 clap-boards, which was more than was done by any other man about me or whom 1 knew of, though to hear many of them talk, they could do and did more work in one day, than I could in three; and may be they could, but, somehow, they had not much to show in re- sults for their superior ability, and those who had farms had poor fences, and their shelter was like that noted in sonc. by eight hundred dollai^ worth of horses and other property, and had spent more in living than any of them. Besides this I m^anwhie located a land claim on the prairie, fourteen mlf a^ay and built on it a twelve by fourteen feet lumber cabin which claim Isold for a hundred dollar mule and fifty dollars! Had also spent many pleasant Sundays and other days with hospitable farmer friends living in the valleys, and in riding 116 The Walla. TValla Country. over the prairies and in shaded vales in yet more congenial company. I kept a saddle horse with me in summer, and as I put on a clean shirt once in a while, rode about more than my timber companions; did not boast of fabulous amounts of work that I had not and could not do, or even what I did, and asked so many fool questions in friendly satire, and as though I hardl}^ knew what timber, land, and work really was ; was therefore looked upon by some of the innocent settlers with an air of sus- picion, or of ridicule, that was amusing in its crude simplicity in judging human character. Having been out and about in company with a timber com- panion, he came to me one day in great trouble and vexation of spirit, saying there was a " terrible story out about us." "Why !" says he, " they take me for a highwayman and call you the gentle- man rail-maker," and he felt that we were fatally slandered and should weep and wail, or else curse and fight together in putting the stigma down. Once I had 4000 clap-boards to make in a trade for a horse, when one of the boys told me that it would please my customer to make them very thick ; so I made them very thick. Then he reported to him that I "had made a lot of wide staves for him, instead of thin clap-boards, the kind he wanted." So he spent a day in coming to see about it, but was satisfied when I promised to suit him entirely ; which I did by simply splitting each one into two in a little Avhile, which he himself could have done at home, making twenty dollars a day in doing it. While I afforded some amusement to my generous com- panions in toil, I (being incompetent, an orphan and stranger in a strange land) — was also a subject of anxiety and care to some, who kindly made my business and social genial Avelfare their ardent concern. This brings my story to the fall of 1871. The prospect of the early building of the N. P. j-ailroad had waned, as it was noi to be built until other railroads were built without any subsidy and the country was settled up, so it would be a paying investment at once ; thus having the great land grant as a clear gift, if, through secret intrigue with brethren in office, they could hold it against the law. Fire had destroyed the manufacturing business of my < (117) 118 The Walla Walla Country. father, and he and my mother had died, so the scenes of my boyhood, thus saddened, had less attraction for me than when I left them; and finding here apparently as favorable an opportun- ity to settle down and prosper, as would be afforded elsewhere, I concluded to remain, get married, make as good a home as I was able to carve out of the wilderness, and grow up with the country. Was married the same fall, a year after my arrival in the country. CHAPTER IX. A brief description of Eastern and Western Wasliington, and of the various sections in eacli. — Tlieir industries and inducements. — Their advantages and their disadvantages. vV ASHINGTON is the most north-western territory, or state, belonging to the Union, with the exception of Alaska. It lies about ten degrees north of Washington City, D. C. Yet the eastern part is not as cold in winter as New Jersey, the ground seldom being frozen as much as six inches deep ; and the west- ern part is not as cold in winter as it is at Washington City on the Potomac, and it is more healthy. Irrigation is not absolutely necessary anywhere in the state, to raise crops ; but some sections in the eastern part get very dry and very dusty, and most anywhere more or less irri- gation is, or would be, if water was accessible, very beneficial, and so it would be in the states. Though it rains more in summer in the states, than it does here, or anywhere else on this coast. But the soil is such that in unusual dry seasons half a crop is raised without any rain or irrigation. The state, as a whole, is separated into two natural divisions, known as Western and Eastern Washington, the Cascade range of mountains intervening. It contains, besides the mountainous regions, which are covered with timber and wood, nearly 50,000 square miles of pasture and agricultural lands. About four-sevenths of these are classified as timbered, two-sevenths as bunch-grass prairie, and one-seventh as alluvial bottom lands. Over half of the timbered and nearly all the bottom lands lie in the western section ; while the bunch-grass prairie lands are all in the eastern part. The annual rainfall in Western Washington is about seventy inches, and in Eastern Washington about thirty inches. Extending far inland from the Pacific ocean into Western Washington is Puget Sound. Although sufficiently narrow to admit of both shores being seen at the same time, it is in all parts of sufficient depth to accommodate the largest ocean- going steamers, and in places it is a hundred fathoms deep. It (119y 120 Eastern and "Western Washington. has a shore line about sixteen hundred miles in length, and in- cludes a series of land-locked harbors, in which the " navies of the world " might anchor in safety. Emptying into it on every side are numerous streams, some of which are navigable for many miles into the interior. The bottoms of these streams are very fertile, and some are spacious, nor are they unhealthy, as is so usual in the states. These, as well as the bottoms on the streams that empty into Grays Harbor, Shoal Water Bay and the lower Columbia river, are the best tame-grass sections on the Pacific coast, if not in the United States. These bottoms are from, say, one to six miles wide, and fifteen or twenty of these streams are navigable— the Chehalis for sixty miles at all seasons of the year. But these bottoms are mostly covered with a dense growth of brush, vine-maple, alder, cedar, spruce and other timber. Nearly the whole of Western Washington is covered with a dense forest, composed of fir, cedar, spruce, with some oak, vine and curley maple, alder and other vegetation, belonging to a warm, humid climate. Between the Sound and the ocean are the Olympic mountains, with snow-capped peaks ; and between it and the ocean is the best unsettled section of country that I know of at this time (1889). Mount Rainier, or Tacoma, in the Cascade range, is near 15,000 feet high, and its top is always white with snow. The " Sound Country " has numerous thriving towns, Seattle, Tacoma, Port Townsend and Olympia being the largest. The country bordering upon the Sound and extending back to the mountains, is rich in coal and lumber, and the soil, when cleared, is more or less productive for hay, grain and vegetables, also fruits and berries. There are sections that are most excellent for apples, pears and plums. Coal is shipped in large quantities to San Francisco. There is quite a variety of fish in the Sound, and they are abundant ; and so are clams on the beach. Cedar trees are frequently 200 feet in height, and firs some- times 300 feet, and 100 feet to the first limb. Spars and other rare ship timbers are conveyed from Puget Sound to all parts of the world. Common lumber is shipped principally to Cali- fornia, Central and South America, Australia and the Sandwich Islands. It is a great lumber region, if not the greatest in the Eastern and Western Washington. 121 world. Seine of the mills ciit about 500,000 feet a clay, each. — The Sound hawks will ride on hogs' backs while they root up clams on the beach, then snatching one will fly high in the air, and directly over some rocky spot, letting the clam drop, to break it open. The climate of Western Washington is warm and wet, the average winter temperature being about thirty-three degrees above zero, with lots of rain. During the summer season it rains less and the temperature is milder, but the climate is quite even the year round. Flowers are often seen blooming in the gardens in the midst of winter. The scenery is grand, especiall)' in summer when the air is free of fog and smoke. Eastern Washington is as different from Western Washing- ton as one country could well be from another. Generally speaking, it is an open, or timberless region, and is therefore chiefly useful as a farming and grazing country. Its chief rivers are the Columbia and Snake, which have their junction near the center of the state. Besides these rivers are numerous smaller streams, that have their sources in the mountain ranges - some of them flowing eastward from the Cascades, some from the Blue mountains, which lie to the south-east, and some from the Coeur d'Alene mountains in northern Idaho. These streams, with the exception of the Columbia and Snake, are more or less wooded. They are all more or less deeply im- bedded below the farming country, the upper portions being deep canyons. The Columbia and Snake are bordered with sand and gravel, and rocky bluffs ; the small streams with rich alluvial bottoms and rocky bluffs. Taking one's position upon some elevated point, and look- ing over this vast region of Eastern Washington, the general appearance is that of an endless contiguity of grass-covered, gently waving hills. Thus viewed at a distance, the color of the landscape is that of a dull gray. The scene is monotonous; grand, but not beautiful, and* it makes one feel lonesome. These timberless hills are covered with bunch-grass or grain. This grass and a mild, dry climate, made Eastern Washington, Eastern Oregon and Idaho a good stock country. Passing through the country, especially through the settled portions, the scene is more interesting, as it has lost its sameness and 122 Eastern and Western Washington. gained in variety. Nestled in among these timberless hills and flats, on one stream or another, are towns and villages, and cities of nou-producers ; they are about one quarter of the population of the country ; are organized into secret charitable (?) gangs, and thrive by ruling and filching the producer, home-builder and immigrants — they earn almost nothing, but steal almost everything — the courts being in their control. They are to the people, what the English and German trader is to the natives of countries they have conquered. "For knaves to thrive on — mysterious enough: Dark, tangled doctrines, dark as fraud can weave." " They linked their souls By a dark oath in hell's own language framed." These towns and villages are surrounded with fertile and productive farms. The soil is generally a rich, ashy loam, which is easily plowed and cultivated, and grain, vegetable and fruit are produced with much less labor, than in most other countries. But for the reasons heretofore and hereafter given, over eighty per cent, of the farms are mortgaged, and the whole country is held under tribute that would make the Egyptian, the Hottentot, the Sepoy, or the Chinaman rebel in his own country. Therefore, farms can be bought cheap. " Except the virtuous, men ought to he slaves, because they are either Avicked themselves, or are ready to crouch before the wicked. A feeble herd, happy to crouch to a master." Eastern Washington is divided up into numerous large or small districts or sections, usually bearing names which they have derived from streams passing through them. The oldest of these is the Walla Walla country, which surrounds a city of the same name. North of this — across the Snake river — is the Palouse country, the Spokane country, and the Big Bend countr}-, all lying east and south of the Columbia river, and west of Idaho. West of the Columbia river and east of the Cascade mountain is embraced the remainder of Eastern Washington. This region is divided into two large districts, known as the Klickitat country and the Yakima country. ''The Yakima country lies north of the Klickitat, and in- cludes an area of nearly ten thousand square miles. The western Eastern and Western Washington. 123 boimdary being the Cascade range of mountains. The Yakima country is penetrated from that direction by numerous long spurs which trend eastward in the direction of the Columbia. Between these long hills or spurs are numerous fertile valleys. By some freak of nature the Yakima river, which runs southward and eastward, cuts tlirough these long hills at nearly right angles, and in this way crosses the several valleys comprising the Yakima country. The first, and one of the largest of these valleys through which the river passes, after it flows from the Cascade mountains, is the Kittitas valley, which is the centre of a county, with Ellensburg as the county seat. Fifteen to twenty miles to the north of Ellensburg is an extensive coal region, perhaps the best in the state. And to the north of this are gold, silver and other mines. Further down the river, from Ellensburg, south and east of Kittitas, are numerous smaller valleys, including the Wenas, Selah, Natcheez and the Ahtanum. In the latter valle}-, at the junction of a little stream, known as Ahtanum, with the Yakima river, is the town of Yakima. Opposite this town (being like an extension of the Ahtanum valley) is a level, fertile tract of country known as the Moxee. Immediately south of town, the river cuts throuth another of the long hills above mentioned, and enters another valley, the greater portion of which unfortunately is included within the Yakima Indian reservation. This is the finest valley or tract of land in Eastern Washington, and if it was available for settlement, would be one of the most productive [for tribute] sections in the West. [Of course] an effort is being made to acquire such portion of it as the Indians do not need [?] for their own use [?J, and if the movement is successful, Yakima City will at once become an important inland city." [There are also other people who have more land (that they have 6-tofe/i), and also more money (that they have stolen) ''than they need for their own use." Why not take or rather recover these fii'st?] "Opposite this reservation is an immense country. From the Yakima river it slopes back and rises gently until it reaches the summit of a long range of hills, and then the slope is in the opposite direction and toward the Columbia. The general name given to it is Sunnyside. Below the reservation and on the opposite side of the Yakima river from Sunnyside, is a somewhat similar tract of country known as "Horse Heaven." It being a good range and largely occupied by horses. The Cascade branch of 124 Eastern and Western Washington. the Northern Pacific railroad is constructed up the Yakima river, and, like the stream itself, passes through the numerous valleys. This section yields large crops of grain, hay, hops, vegetables and fruits, also tobacco, flax, broom-corn and sugar-cane. It has a mild climate and fertile soil." The Palouse, the Spokane and the Colville countries are, in one way and another, equal to the Yakima. The Palouse will produc3 much more grain, but less fruit, and so will the Spokane. And the Colville country is quite rich in lead and silver, with some gold, and has much fertile soil, with a superior stock range. But the Walla Walla country is naturally the best of all the sections, it being hardly surpassed anywhere in the world as a general farming and fruit country. In the foothills of the Blue mountains the soil was equal to the virgin soil of Illinois, and the climate generally much more congenial in winter. About six weeks is the average time that the ground is too much frozen to plow. -It catches more of the warm chinook winds than any other section. Apple and peach trees bear in three years from the seed, and there are localities where corn, melons, tomatoes and other vines grow and bear in great abundance. The Umatilla section in Eastern Oregon is considered as belonging to the Walla Walla country. The Grand Ronde valley, in the Blue mountains in Eastern Oregon, will compare favorably to the Palouse country in Washington. And the Boise country in Idaho is similar to the Yakima in its climate, soil and productions. Western Oregon is very similar, though larger and superior to Western Washington as a farming country. But it is older, and its timber and mineral resources are not as great as those f)f Western Washington. Oregon originally embraced the whole region from California Nevada and Utah to Alaska, and from the Pacific ocean to the Rocky mountains, and the Columbia river was named " Oregon." The water may be said to be universally good throughout the whole Northwest. " Where rolls the Oregon, and hears no sound, Save his own dashings." MuLTNOMA Falls, Columbia kivek, Oiiegon. (125) CHAPTER X. History of settling of the "Walla Walla country. — Report of Government experts, as to the soil. — Packing to the mines of Idaho. — The market and oiiiJortnnities. — The outlook in 1870, when I landed here. — The country grasped by its throat ; the Government prostituted — 1000 miles of river navigation to the sea strangled, and the tribute that was levied. — The result. — The promised railroad. — First land claim I located. — Life in the beginning of a home, — Dangers and drawbacks. — My first outfit. — Sell my claim. — Hunt for and locate another in a new wild section. — Description of it and the locality. — My Indian neighbors; how they treated the first Avhite men they ever saw. — A homebuilder's land rights, and what he must necessarily endure. — Warned of the i^erj^lexities, conspiracies and ti'eason to be planted in the way. — How we started out to build a good and spacious home. — Our house, etc. — Travelling, moving and cami^iug in the West. — 25 miles to blacksmith shojj, etc. — The "Egyi^ffor supplies. — T.aud claims located about us and abandoned, are re-located by others time and again. — My first crop. — Crickets one hundred, bushels to the acre. — So that we are left alone in the "France Settlement."' — The section surveyed and I "file my claim." — Raise hogs. — The result. — Get a band of cattle.— Experience on the range. ^Getting roads opened. — First railroad in Eastern Washington. — Struggling for a livelihood and home. — How I managed. — Other new settlements and people. — How they did. — "Land hunters." — Prove up, pay for and get patent for pre-emi3tion claim, and take a homestead claim ad- joining. — Co^Dy of U. S. patent. — How we just loi^ed along and ahead of the country. — It settles uj). — New County ; towns, etc., built. — Settlers swindled. —Build school-house, etc. , etc. i HE first settlements iu tlie Columbia and Snake river basin were at, or near Fort Walla Walla— afterwards the town of "Walla Walla ; and tlien on tlie through-road and pack-trails leading from Fort Wallula — on the Columbia river— to Walla- Walla, and thence easterly— by the way of Lewiston — to the mining camps and military posts in Idaho. The ferryage for crossing Snake river at Lewiston was six dollars for wagon and single team, and one dollar each for rid- ing and pack animals. And during the rush to the mines the travel was so great, that a single boat could hardly carry it ; at times hundreds had to wait their turn. These western ferry-boats are propelled by the current of a2fi) The "France Settlement" 127 the stream, by keeping them diagonally against the current and in a direct course b}^ guy ropes, attached to pulleys rolling on a wire cable, stretched high across the river. This travel, emigration and military operations afforded the early settlers of the Walla Walla country a home market for many years, that was perhaps never surpassed in the West. They also secured the most desirable spots in the country for permanent homes — that of wooded streams with prairie bottoms. Some of these first settlers got their start by digging it out of the rich placers of Idaho or British Columbia ; others, by working at such, as teaming or packing to the mines, either on their own account, or by wages, at sixty to one hundred dollars a month ; while others again brought it with them across the plains, or from Oregon. Found their farm wagons worth here $200 or $300, cows $50 to $100, and good horses and mules also very high, and a good new range. There being large numbers of Indian horses already here, such and half-breeds were cheap. Up to the time I came here (1870), Government land was offered at private sale to anybody-, at $1.25, greenbacks, per acre, and as much as they wanted and could pay for. On account of the proximity to and richness of the mines, money was plenty; a good market was afforded (about one dollar a pound at the mines), so a settler with a broken leg made a stake out of an onion patch he tended in a season ; wages were high ; all kinds of business applicable to the country and situ- ation, gave large returns, and the mines did not begin to fail till 1865. And, until it became thickly settled around them, they had a very healthy climate. Never before, or since, did home seekers have such splendid opportunities as the Walla Walla country afforded to its first settlers. Yet, famed and titled, high-flown Government experts, with big pay and pomp, had officially reported, after expensive examination, that this whole Columbia river basin was Avorthless for agriculture. When I came here, about all the land that had been taken up in the Walla Walla country was a tract adjacent to and east of Walla Walla ; that which bordered on the streams, where it was fertile and otherwise suitable, and tlie hollows and level 128 Building a Home. spots containing springs of water and situated on the road from Wallula to Lewiston. There were but two villages — Walla Walla and Waitsburgh - and but four Post Offices in all the region of Washington, that lies south of the Columbia and Snake rivers, now compris- ing four quite populous counties, but then all belonging to Walla Walla county alone. So there was yet plenty of vacant land to choose from. But the fruitful neighboring mines were quite worked out, and valleys near them had been settled and put in cultivation to supply their wants; so these markets and sources of money supply were mostly gone ; river freights were so high, that no produce could be shipped down to the sea ; the great Columbia and Snake river basin was without a market, and times were getting hard when I settled in the country. This Columbia and Snake river basin is quite barred in from the sea by the Cascade mountains. But the Columbia river gorges through it, making a good natural outlet and inlet to and from the sea, which could have been made available and almost free to the people at a comparative slight expense, by Washington or Oregon, or both, in overcoming some rapids which obstruct navigation. The available ground by these rapids was soon acquired by a close company of secret brethren, who — by building eighteen miles of narrow-gauge railway — were allowed to hold the whole country between the Rocky and Cascade mountains by the throat, and levy a tribute of untold millions on its people. They were thus taxed fifty to one hundred dollars per ton on all their imports, except what was hauled in over the mountains on wagons. And a like tribute on all exports to the full amount each kind of produce could pay, and continue to be produced. To own or control the transportation of a country, is to virtually own the whole business of it ; because such owners can thus reap all of the profits in the production of all of its produce. JVhat more could they (jet if they icere made Chunts and Dukes and sole 2)ropr{etors of the land and peojjle ? The tribute paid to these brethren by the United States Government alone, for the passage through their custom house The "France Settlement." 129 gate, of military supplies, etc., would have more than built these eighteen miles of narrow-gauge railroad, worked a great saving to the Government, and afforded to the inhabitants of the country the utility of about 1000 miles of navigable rivers; which would be better than the same number of miles of rail- road built and given to the people. And the money overpaid to this charitable (?) ring in but a few (of the many) years by the people, would have thus opened these rivers, and besides have grid-ironed the country with narrow-gauge railroads to them. But the people, not being advanced beyond the claptrap- catchwords of " Democrat " and "Republican" (both meaning the gang), allowed brethren in the ring to hold office to the extent that nothing was ever accomplished against its interests and for the people's general welfare. Finally (1876) to hold out false hopes to the people — so they would not rebel and would continue to vote for the brethren, and to further fill their pockets — the general Govern- ment was caused to commence a $5,000,000 or $6,000,000 lock- canal around the obstructions, which has been used as a blind for big appropriations by Congress to enrich the gang, — there being comparatively little work done to open the river. There has never been an editor in all this upper country, who dared to give the true secret inwardness of this nefarious job of clutching by the throat and choking off from the people, for one or two generations, a thousand miles of navigable rivers that drain a fertile grain and mineral producing country, that in its natural resources is only surpassed by that drained by the Mississippi and its tributaries. And when the Govern- ment frequently spent as much money as was needed to utilize all this on single wagon roads and trails that were of little use. And the Washington and Oregon Legislatures (of brethren) squandered away as much at single sessions. When the markets of the mines failed to be equal to the supply, and the natural channel of trade to the sea and the world being still in the hands and power of a foreign — " mogul king" — secret government, that had its custom house in the only pass of the country, and was stabbing our Government into submission, the settlers had to do as the Indians had done 9 130 Building a Home. before — go into stock raising. This demand for stock cattle kept their price up, until the time I came here, (1870) when, there being a surplus, they gradually fell to half or one-third of the former price. A man bought a lot of yearlings at that time at twenty dollars a head, and sold them three or four years later for the same price — their growth just equalled their decline. The country was on this downward turn when I settled in it. Though the people were hopeful that they would dislodge the mystic pirates on the river ; that the N. P. railroad, or some other would be speedily built to Puget Sound, and the people be permitted to prosper. " Where every prospect pleases and only man is vile." The land claim I had located, was a mostly level and fer- tile one-quarter section of prairie, with a good spring and building site by it, and it was adjacent to the Walla Walla and Lewiston road noted before. But it was fourteen miles from timber and wood ; on which account my means were scant to do the necessary fencing, building, breaking, etc., to afford a living without working for others at least fourteen miles away; as nothing could be raised on the place for a year or two, and perhaps no profit the third or fourth. There are many expenses to meet all the time in making a home, though no help be employed, and accidents will occur. One little one is enough to break a settler all up, if it throws him into the hands and power of a lawyer or doctor. It being secretly fixed with the courts of justice (?), that either can get or spoil all that the victim has, though known to be guilty of inhuman deceit and malpractice. Thus do so many blacklegs thrive and homebuilders fail. And the necessary outfit of team, wagon, harness, plow, harrow, feed, seed, tools, grub, etc., to work with, costs quite a sum. Of course, one expects to get along for years with the kind of a house, furniture, out-buildings, etc., that he can build him- self, by perhaps exchanging work with his neighbor, if he has any, wherein one cannot work to advantage alone. Nor can he spend much time in them either, as he has so much other work, such as breaking, fencing, hauling, etc., etc., that must be (131) 132 Building a Home. pushed ahead, or he will be overtaken by the hounds, and never make a living on the place. The situation must be looked in the face, and fully com^ prehended without blinking, and any regard for fashion or appearance to others spurned. My first team was of wild, half-breed Indian horses ; would have to catch them with a lasso, and they would snort, buck and kick to a wagon. And such a wagon ! It was like those scattered about to adorn (?) the lawn of a blacksmith shop. But I built 3000 rails for it all the same ; not on account of its beauty, but to put off the greater expense of two hundred dollars for a new one,— the secret charitable (?) pirates at the river charging a tariff of fifty or seventy-five dollars on a wagon ; and so a plow cost thirty or forty dollars ; and on hard wood, so that an axle tree, tongue, etc., cost ten or fifteen dollars each. A man paid oighty-five dollars to have a common farm wagon repaired. Remember going to a fourth of July celebration and on ' other business, and when I went to hitch up, found the double and whiffle trees had been used and left at a distance, when with an ax, piece of a rail and picket rope, I made another set in a very few minutes for the occasion. Such was the outfit we went about with to keep ahead of the hounds, when not on horseback, in building a home and competency, and it took two packs of ravenous, blood-thirsty bloodhounds, and the prosti- tution of the Government, to hound, intrigue, stab_and ring us down. We would jest and ridicule with those so disposed at our outfit, or anything of the kind, and hold it to be a new fashion, soon to be imitated by all ; which happened to be about so, when, having cut the bush of my horses' tails square off for an attractive mark I had never seen or heard of, that I would more surely hear of them when they strayed away ; for after- wards this mark became the fashion of the world, and men adopted it for its beauty, who had ridiculed it to me as ugly and detestible. Not having means enough to go ahead to advantage on a claim so distant from timber and wood, and hearing of a fertile prairie and timber country at the head of the Alpowa, about The "France Settlement." 133 twenty-five miles away, where " there were natural meadows of clover," and situated nearer Snake river (the prospective market) and Lewiston (the best present market), and through which were Indian trails and a shorter route for a through-road from Walla Walla to Lewiston and beyond, I went to see about it. Passing over an extensive stretch of unsettled, rich, up- land prairie, bordering on Padet creek to the west and Tu-Can- yon to the east - striking the Indian trails — then going down into the big, deep Canyon, crossing its wooded bottom and stream up towards the mountain ; then up and over the brakes on the trails ; over another stretch of high in altitude, but pro- mising prairie, reaching south to the mountain, and east and north to the breaks of the Pataha (Pa-tah-ha prairie). Settle- ment on both of these up-land sections had lately been com- menced, and two or three houses built on each. You see now, that the " sections " and settlements are separated by canyons and gorges, and the rough, rocky breaks bordering thereon. Following the Nez-Perce trails (as did Lewis and Clarke the same in 1804) down and across the Pataha gorge and creek, where it forks ; then on a ridge, between the Pataha and breaks of the head of the Alpowa, for four miles, and here lay the spot I was looking for. It is likewise high in altitude, but is interspersed with belts and groves of timber — of pine, intermingled with fir, tamerack and cottonwood, (giving this tract of country a pleas- ing, park-like appearance, in striking contrast with the treeless expanse on three sides, as far as the eye can reach — a view of fifty miles), with prairies intervening, that are unlike in ex- tent, evenness and fertility ; they being partly arable, and partly pasture lands. Of course, there were no roads across the gulches ; it was as scantily watered as other sections ; the clover meadows were a delusion ; no post-office, school-house, blacksmith shop, sawmill, grist-mill, or store nearer than twenty-four to thirty miles by trail, and forty to fifty by wagon road. And there was nothing of the kind this side of the big Tu-Cauyon or Snake 134 Building a Home. river — with its six dollars ferriage to Lewiston. And there was no grist-mill at Lewiston. " Alpowai " is Indian for " Spring Creek." It empties into Snake river. Two missionaries— Dr. Whitman and Spaulding — stopped a short time at the mouth of this stream on their arrival from the States to this coast, in 1837, when they planted some apple seeds here for the Indians. From these seeds have grown some very large, fruitful and famed trees — living monu- ments of good men, and the oldest mark of civilization in the Walla Walla country, if not in the North-west. Twenty-five or thirty Nez-Perce Indians still (1889) live, farm and raise stock on the lower creek. But the " Old Indian Orchard " is not theirs anymore. They long ago renounced their tribal relations and are good citizens. At one time they loaned some horses to volunteers, to fight hostile Indians, for which they never got any pay or even the animals back. And when Colonel Steptoe and his force got whipped by hostiles beyond the river — in 1858 - old Timothy led them out of a death trap, and, with the other creek Indians, ferried them across the river in the night — thus saving the lives of over a hundred men, and for which the cowardiy-ingrate Steptoe never even said " thank you." Timothy's wife died recently (1889), aged ninety-five years; she remembered Lewis and Clark quite well, and how v^^ell they were entertained by her people. The oldest Nez-Perces revere the memory of Lewis and Clark, as the first white men they ever saw (1804). At the time of this land hunting trip (1871), when I located my place, there were five or six white men living on the Asotin creek, twelve to twenty miles to the south-east, — only one of whom had a wagon — but there was not a white woman in what is now Asotin county. Jerry McGuire, Noble Henry and Wm. Hopwood were the first settlers, I believe. Joseph Harris and Dan Faver lived on the Alpowai creek, Dudley Strain on the Alpowa-ridge-prairie (which lies between the Alpowa and Pa- taha). The latter was soon joined by Mr. Harris, who had a band of cattle to help them out. They and their families (eight miles away) were our nearest permanent neighbors for The "France Settlement." 135 several years, and, happily, they were good and useful ones in times of need. The foregoing, with the fifteen ol* twenty men living on the Pataha creek and prairie to the north-west, constituted the po- pulation of the region between Tu-Canyon, Snake river and the Oregon line — now forming two quite populous counties. There was, indeed, a branch Indian trail route— up the Pa- det creek through this park-like tract (at the head of the Alpo- wai) - to Lewiston and the Asotin country, and no practical route across the Alpowa between this and the other one, (that I travelled sixty miles on when I came to the country and stopped in the " Upper Tou-chet " section), and to the south are the Blue mountains. But to make a wagon road across Tu-Canyon and the Pataha required a great deal of work, which could not be done until the country along the route was some- what settled up. And there was road work to do in crossing the wooded gulches here. In one of these gulches, where the trail crossed it, there flowed, for a quarter of a mile or more, the principal spring, or springs of water for several miles around, and fertile prairie land lay more adjacent to this spring, than to any other, that would afford water for so large a band of stock and for other business. Here was " water, wood and grass," with a good sheltered building place, joined to land ready for the plow ; which is joined by enough more laud that is destitute of water, so as not to be valuable to others, on which I could lay my other land rights, or buy, so as to have enough for a spacious home and business, to justify the pioneering and toil necessary to under- go in the building of a home alone in a wilderness. The Government justly gave to the pioneers of Oregon and Western Washington claims of 640 acres of rich bottom and prairie lands, bordering on rivers flowing unfettered to the sea; and it was death to a jumper. Patents to 8000 such "donation claims '' were issued. Yet, when I had more surely earned, and obtained b}- subsequent and more exacting laws, a less tract of land in a back wilderness, bottled up and strangled from the sea by the gang, the grasping, black-leg, midnight, blood-suck- ing hounds held it to be death-deserving, to hold and enjoy it. 136 Building a Home. This I will prove in one place and another so plain and posi- tively, that none but a contemptible, villainous thief will dis- pute it. After looking around, I laid the customary " foundation," (four poles in a square) by the big spring of my hopeful desire, and posted a notice that I hereby claimed it, with a quarter section of land about it, October, 1871. This land being then unsurveyed, it could not be designated and filed on at the Land office, which was at Walla Walla. Nor could one tell, within forty rods, where his lines would be, till it was surveyed. As the claim I had located before was also on unsurveyed land, I therefore had not used, or lost any land- right in locating and disposing of it. So I had the pre-emption and homestead rights to use here, and the timber culture and desert land rights left to use elsewhere, if I so desired. There were a few other claims taken in this locality about this time by others, and more the following summer, but they were all abandoned in a year or two, after more or less work. For this locality was so far away from supplies, that had to be hauled by such a round-about way, or packed in by the Indian trail, and there being no one anywhere near, who was able to give employment to those short of means, necessary to meet expenses and go ahead with their improvements ; with every- thing to buy at big prices, and nothing to sell, it was a hard struggle to get along. There was a surplus produced on the Pataha creek, along the road ; but oats, barley and potatoes were two or three cents a pound ; hogs, eight cents gross, and wheat, one dollar a bushel. And this in the face of a limited and declining market. Prices got less towards Walla Walla— which was the Egypt of the new settlements - and greater towards the mines of Idaho and British Columbia. A future market depended on a river or rail outlet to the sea, and on a numerous immigration, that must consume before they could produce. The prices of merchandise were between that of a settled farming country and a mining camp. My store bills for seven years, after we were married, run from $150 to $350 a year. However, thinking that what by our ability, industry and The "France Settlement." 137 economy we honestly earned, we could hold and enjoy in peace, we concluded to go to work and build a good and spacious home here, and we went at it full of hope and ambition, to succeed in the face of both ridicule and earnest advice. One who did not toil or spin, yet gathered in other people's barns and things, impressed me with other and easier ways to get a competency, than such a hard and homely way. "There are other ways for you to get along, better than by work — whatever you do, let such work be the very last tiling to think of doing," he said. And he warned me of the tangled meshes of perplexity, and the treacherous, deadly mire of grim con- spiracy and treason, that is masked and planted in the way, to stab, bleed, ravage and murder the homebuilder; examples of which will be given in other chapters. True, I had some business ability and experience in the real and living world, and by linking in with the gang that prostitutes the courts, could have acquired larger tracts of land and ready made homes without any toil, as so many charitable brethren do. There were others with ridicule or advice, who had not ability enough to make a living for them- selves. But no one questioned our riglit to build, hold and enjoy a home here if we could ; and certainly no one then envied the prospect or place. Some declared they " would not settle in that neck of woods for a deed to a township of land." But, having no responsible guardian, I went ahead and laid in a supply of necessary implements, tools, etc. ; grain for feed and seed ; a few hundred feet ol lumber; a year's supply of grub, clothing, etc. ; settled up my accounts ; gathered up my stock — in which our start thus far mostly consisted ; parted from what little civilization there was, and went to work on the place. Our house was a log cabin, neither spacious nor elegant, but being the best we had ever owned, it seemed to us to be both spacious and elegant. And the furniture would have sold for not more than $2.50 in a town. But, " the house and home of every one should be to him as his castle and fortress, as well for his defense against injury and violence, as for his repose. " 138 Building a Home. " The true test of liberty is in the practical enjoyment of protection in the right. Where the same laws extend to all the citizens of differ- ent denominations ; where the poorest claims obtain redi'ess against the strongest ; where his person and property is secure from every insult within the limits assigned to him by the known laws of his country." Thus we started out on the rugged road — that not one in fifty travels over successfully — without pomp or assistance, but full of love and hope, agreeing in all things, truly in earnest to succeed, and asking no favors of men. Nor were we at all dismayed by any such stumbling blocks as the first, cast in our way at the critical outset — the worse than stealing of a few hundred paltry dollars in property, that was an absolute gift and heritage to a child from her grand- mother, greatly enlarged by her own skillful endeavors. In travelling in the West, as in moving, etc., one carries picket-ropes, grain, grub and blankets and camp out, because money can be more easily saved in this way, than made by working ; and, except an occasional ranch on a main road for such accommodation, houses of any kind are not often available, even in a storm. But with a good outfit and agreeable com- pany, camping out can be made enjoyable. The plows in the west are of steel, and must be frequently sharpened by a blacksmith. The nearest one for me during the first season was twenty-five miles away. He used bark, not having time to burn coal ; he was a skillful mechanic, and Sam Miller was a good man. After this there was a black- smith but eight miles away. When my plow got dull, would hitch on two more horses— making five or six — to stave off such trips. But the hauling of supplies from the nearest ' Egypt,' over long and often bridgeless and otherwise almost impassable roads, to a new settlement, is a great drawback. And when this is prolonged by failure of crops, by insect or other pests, it is so costly and discouraging, that many fall back. The claims about us that had been abandoned were soon relocated by other men, who added somewhat to the improve- ments on the same. But in the following spring these settlers (t39i 140 Building a Home. took spells of gazing intently at the ground. An old prospector — passing through on the trail for a season's prospect in Idaho, with his pack mule following like a dog— inquired of one of these gazing homebuilders, " have you struck a color, pard ? " But he gets no reply or notice ; and no wonder, the ground is indeed "lousy." The homebuilder from Kansas — as he gazes at, kicks and stamps the fertile soil — is heard to mutter " Grasshoppers, by G-d!'' His past experience loomed before him like a hideous dream. Heretofore he could mortgage his home for a little of something that was portable, and skip to the trackless West. But there was nobody to invest anything in such a prospect, as was here, and the trackless West was about run down. A company of Nez-Perce Indians rode carelessly and happily by on the trail ; they were well-mounted, also well fed and clothed, and had as good a home as. the homebuilder. They were going to some camas or kowsh ground, where a sort of wild potatoe grows in abundance and variety, and where fresh meat could be had for the killing. In a month they would take a fishing excursion, and it was all a pic-nic. As they pass along, the Indians, perhaps, discuss the white man's boasted civilization, and point out examples to their children. Be this as it may, the Kansas and Washington homebuilder looks up at them and wonders why he never had the common sense of an Indian. The hoppers turned out to be big, black crickets, though as destructive as grasshoppers, and often more so, many men wasting a great deal of time in ditching and otherwise fighting against them. This was in 1873. That spring I had twenty acres into grain — on land I had broke the spring before— and a big garden. My first crop. Had also a good start of expensive stock-hogs ; 8000 rails into fence ; and had set out an orchard of about 200 trees ; and had done a good deal of road work. I commenced to ditch against the crickets, but finding it useless, gave up my whole crop to them without a whimper. Some people haven't sense enough to know when they are whipped. They overcrept the land more or less, for fifty miles The "France Settlement." 141 around, taking the gardens, except peas and potatoes, and the small crops of the new settlers. The large fields of grain of the old settlers, being more than a supply for them, were only partially destroyed. While I went straight to breaking twenty acres more prairie for a bigger crop next year. I was the only one in this section that did so ; and in a few months was the only man living on his claim, in the now known as the " France Settle- ment." And nobody yet envied me my possession. The crickets left us potatoes and peas, that they did not like, and enough grain to winter the thirty-five head of hogs, that promised to give us a lift the following year. The pest was an all summer's feast to them. I cradled over all of the twenty acres, and hauled and stacked the grain alone. The same summer and fall this section of country, 6x12 miles — two townships— was sur- veyed, as near as essential, into forty acre-square tracts. So now I could lay my place definitely by the lines, and file my claim to it at the land office, after some months, when the office got ready for it. A portion of my field turned out to be on a "School section," (there being two such in each township) but having settled before the survey, could therefore hold my claim as it was, except that I must draw in or push out to the survey lines. Could take four forty-acre tracts, but they must be con- nected and butt square against each other. Could do this and form the claim either in a half mile square ; a mile long and one-quarter wide ; in the shape of a T, L, or Z : whichever would take in the most desirable land. However, as there was a law — that was being generally availed of in the old settlements — for leasing such school sections, in whole or in part, at a nominal sum ; and as this tract was entirely destitute of water, so that it would be of little comparative value to others, I did not file on any of it, thinking that hereafter I could lease, and afterwards buy — if it 142 Building a Home. was sold — such portion as I might need in mj business, and was able to pay for according to present and future laws. I could get a few acres of land in the garden of California, on a clam beach on Puget Sound, or in the Sandwich Islands — enough for a bare living. But, of course, I wanted land enough for a desirable home and a profitable business and for ni}^ children. "What else was I here for ? What other induce- ment was there to pioneer in a back wilderness while it would produce nothing but big, black, hungry crickets — a hundred bushels to the acre ! Nobody wanted to murder me then for my possessions ! Even the Indians looked on me with com- passion as I struggled along, and they never did us any harm, with all their opportunities to do so. While I was thus earning a competency, members of the charitable (?) gangs were conspiring to steal school and other lands by the section and township, as will hereafter appear. And that they were held up for admiration by high officials who conspired to murder me by inches in cold blood ! Not finding it profitable to raise crickets and grain at the same time, I thought I would try to make something out of the famous bunch grass range. So that summer (1873) I got a band of over 100 stock cattle to keep on shares for half the in- crease. But learned by the following spring that the range for cattle was greatly over-rated, except for those having secret influence at court, so they can make their losses good from other people's bands with impunity. I had provided feed on the range where the cattle were running, and fed those that were unable to rustle. Though it was a moderate winter, and there was grass in sight all the time, but few of them did well on the range. So I traded the business off for six good milch cows with calves, and having two, made eight cows, or sixteen head of my own. The man I traded with made nothing out of the band. Whenever a snow storm set in I straddled a horse and struck out over the range — five to fifteen miles away — to see to the cattle. The "France Settlement." 143 It is a pitiful sight one sees in riding over these western stock ranges in winter. Cattle gather in on streams and ravines for shelter and water, where they will stay and starve for feed rather than strike out and climb for the bare wind- ward side of the hills, or when they are on the leeward side of a hill or gorge, where the sun strikes with good effect and keeps the grass pretty bare of snow, they will stay here and starve for water, and then go to the, perhaps frozen-up, creek, where, if the water happens to be open, they will drink to excess, and then stop in the brush and trees — if any there be — and starve for grass. If no water, they moan and die for a drink. The feed near watering places is always eaten off close in summer. It is here that cattle largely pine, are cast, and die ; here they battle the fates and each other like men ; half a dozen big, long-horned steers gore a single crippled, weakly animal down or fast in a drift of snow or wood, because it does not belong to their band or clan. I found a cow thus wedged into a clump of trees and hanging by the hips with her knees down the bank on the ice, and her calf bleating pitifully near by. One sees many calves bleating in despair, pining and dying by their cast, dying and dead mothers, while clans of wolves are barking and feasting on their quivering misery, like clans of human kine. Cattle gather in on the Columbia, Snake and other rivers, inflamed and crazed with burning thirst, crowd out on the ice for an opening in the stream, when the ice breaks and they are drowned— whole bands at a time. Early in the spring, before many owners know what the winter has left, cattlemen of the clan that rules th-e court, strike out and gather up about everything that can travel, drive them out of the country — often to British Columbia — and sell out, to do it again and again. But when one, who has been but a hired hand for these gentry, steals but a few head on his own account, he is branded as a " cattle thief," his prop- erty divided among the court gang, and he is sent to the peni- tentiary for five or ten years. The survey plats being received at the local land office, from Washington, I filed my Pre-emption claim and received the following receipts : (lU) The "France SEiTLEaiENT." 145 I had from six to thirty-three months from date of settle- ment to pay $200 for this claim and get a patent for it, when I could take a homestead claim. It being uncertain as to the time I would need to do this, my settlement was dated only about a year before I filed. The word " Unoffered " means that the land was not for sale out- right, as it had been about Walla "Walla up to 1870. I had been working to get a county road laid out from near Dayton, up Padet creek, through this section to Lewis- ton. And with the assistance of Messrs. Stringer & TVhaley (then living on Tu-Canyon) it was viewed out, surveyed, mile posts set and granted — fifty-two and a half miles — October, 1874. But there was yet much work to do to open it, which cost me — first and last — much time, labor, and other expense. And afterwards I likewise secured the cross roads that are in this section. The cricket pest was still (1874) in the land, and besides, it was a dry, hot season. I had sown 60 bushels of grain — mostly wheat — that I had hauled fifty miles ; did not make enough out of the forty acre crop to pay for the seed. The Mogul pirates, still having control of the rivers of the country, and the immigration being the wrong way, my ex- pensive hogs were only worth two and a half cents a pound. So the crickets were of no more use than the River Clan. Some of the clan about this time relieved the county treasury of about $20,000 in cash. Then an error (?) was "discovered" in the security bonds. All the officials were sworn brethren, so nobody was punished, and the people paid for the charity ! A man built a wooden and strap-iron railroad from Walla Walla to the Columbia river, thirty miles. He got $5 and up- wards per ton for freight, though much was hauled on wagons as before. But the river tariff was so high that it did not pay to ship grain anyway. There were not even any grain shipping facilities on Snake river in 1874. Up to this fall, with all my hard work and farming and expenses I had had nothing to sell 10 146 Building a Home. but some horses and cattle from my little herd, and was $200 in debt. But had managed to yet have a good start of horses, cattle, hogs, hens, etc., and had pushed my improve- ments way ahead : yet, nobody envied the place. All the places about us were now again either abandoned for good by the owners, or for an indefinite time, and we were alone in the settlement. Even our staid neighbors — Harris and Strain — were about to leave the " damned country." I was berated and my sanity questioned — more than usual, and in no uncertain sound — because I did not join in cursing the country and leave it when others left. But such rebukes of fortune— as natural pests or accidental injury — not being due to conspiracy, treachery, or breaches of trust, caused in me no bitter sorrow or any loss of sleep, and we were not unhappy. Moreover, I had quit prospecting for an undiscovered, ready-made fortune, had settled down to earn at least a liveli- hood ; did not expect a picnic and had not found any. And the other new settlements before noted could be bought entirely by the claim for much less than the costs of the improvements, and some of them were now deeded land. Many who had got in debt, and most all had that could, had to sell their places for what they could get to other home-seekers, who were able and willing to take their turn. Money was very scarce and hard to get. Old settlers left their families and went 200 or 300 miles away to work for money, to pay for their land and to meet other expenses. Those who had bands of cattle, horses or sheep, and were out of debt, could hold their own and more, with good manage- ment and no bad luck. I had made some money by working and hauling for others, etc., and bought a better wagon, harness, plow, etc. And now sold all of our cattle except two, also a horse, hogs, potatoes, chickens and butter ; paid up what I owed, bought seed for another year— still fifty miles away — and laid in a full year's supply of provisions, clothing, etc., and some cash in hand for another siege. Plowed ten acres in December, when it set in cold, for a very hard winter. And we made a The "France Settlement." 147 visiting tour of six weeks as far as Walla Walla and beyond. Then I hauled and cut up my regular year's supply of wood for stove and fire-place - spring of 1875. The country between the Snake and Columbia rivers- — known as the "Palouse" and "Spokane" sections— through which the Northern Pacific railroad had been located, had been more or less settled up. But on account of the tariff extorted by the river pirates, and failure of the other charit- able clan to build the promised railroad, almost all of these settlers, except those well provided with stock, had starved out and were now leaving the country for Oregon, California, and the States. Immigrants came in and took their places. Others who held their own, or did even better — in spite of the adverse situation - were set upon and pillaged more di- rectly by brethren with influence at court, and their places also were taken by others. Some left the route of the railroad to settle nearer Snake or the Columbia river, thinking it would be opened first. But it is still fettered by the sworn clan. The cricket pest was now past, but the hard winter, to- gether with the bottled condition of the country and other afflictions, further discouraged settlers, and during this sum- mer of 1875, many also left this division. But others came in to take their places and continue the struggle on both sides of the river, until their successors should come. And a few of the claims that had been abandoned about us were re-located. I spent much valuable and often thankless time in riding about and otherwise assisting these migratory land hunters. My house and grain stacks were always open to them without charge, as well as to all travellers passing through on the trails. As my place was widely known and often the only convenient place to stop at, many availed themselves of it ; were frequently crowded in this way. Besides farming, in 1875, I worked with my four horse team in hauling for others, including freight from Walla Walla to the Lewiston stores. It was five years this fall that I had worked hard and put it mostly into this place. And having it improved enough for practical use, I wanted to prove up and 148 Building a Home. get a patent for it, so as to add to it an adjoining quarter section below, that was vacant. I asked a man to lend me the necessary $200 at one and a half per cent, a month for the purpose. " Yes,'' lie said, " but I must have other security besides a mortgage on the place." Tet I had done $600 to $700 worth of fencing and breaking, and $200 or $300 of other work on it. It is about the usual thing with homebuilders to have to face a lawyer or doctor's bill of $250 or more — for a week's service of mal-practice, backed by the ring courts — at this stage of the struggle, or before, when it takes $5 worth of hard earned property to get one dollar in money. Pause and reflect. I had escaped this, though I had sacrificed $350 at one time, and $250 at another to thieves, rather than undertake to buy justice of the court gang. So was able to borrow $200 (of another money-lender) to prove up and deed the land, which I did and filed a homestead claim. Then, having built a log house, 16x22 feet, corral, sheds, hen-house, etc., on the best building place, at the lower spring in the spring gulch before noted, and just on this homestead claim, we moved there September, 1875. The 320 acres contain 160 acres of arable land, the rest being either timber, steep or rocky, but all good for pasture. What good rail timber was handy had mostly been cut and hauled many miles away, so I had to go as far as six or seven miles back in the mountain for my future supply. But I had good teams now and wagon, was practically free of debt, had means to employ help, was otherwise so much better fixed lo get along than at the outset, and there being no more insect pest, that we just loped right along and ahead of the country. Columbia County was formed out of Walla Walla County this fall. And as there was now about 200 settlers this side of Tu-Canyon, they started a town in it (" Marengo "), made an efi'ort to build and own a grist-mill, and vote the county seat to this place. They lacked the votes necessary to get the capital, but money and work was generally subscribed by these poor a«) 150 Building a Home. half-housed, mortgaged settlers to build the costly mill as a joint stock concern. Here was a chance for some brethren having secret influ- ence at court, to get control and engage in a swindle. Of course they did, and did nothing but manage the business against the victims, and grasp for money. The mine was equal to what would be a moderate lawyer or doctor's fee for each outside investor. From the Press, Seven or Eight Years from the Beginning. " The Marengo mill difficulty has at last been arranged. The remaining indebtedness of the concern has been raised among the unfortunate ones who signed the notes, although it will nearly break up a number of our best farmers to pay the amount subscribed." Also. — "Mrs. W. S is very sick. It is doubtful if she will recover. She is destitute, all her means of sujDport having gone to furnish whiskey and other luxuries for some of the Marengo mill thieves." Some got very indignant at me for refusing to take any stock in, and for ridiculing this scheme. One of whom after- wards skipped across the British line and started a masonic newspaper with his plunder. After the hard winter of 1874-5, common stock cows fell to $10, and the remnants of bands left by the winter were sold very cheap. Even stock men were breaking up now and leav- ing the country in disgust. Horses, however, were more re- garded, so one was no longer laughed at in reply to an ojffer to trade them for cattle. I thought this the time to buy cattle, and in the following winter bought twelve good milch cows at $20 each, making 15 in all besides their calves, and soon had a fine band of cattle. In 1876 I threshed 1,000 bushels of wheat and barley (and had lots of other produce) being the first grain I threshed with a machine. It was the first time I could get one, or a thresh- ing crew ; and now had to go eight miles to do so after em- ploying every settler and land hunter in my settlement. And had to take a ten horse power outfit that took three and a half days time and pay, all around, to do the one days work, and leave one-third of the grain in the straw. The ground yielded thirty to fifty bushels to the acre. The "France Settlement." 151 And for the ensuing six or eight months A-No 1 wheat and barley would not sell for more than 25 cents a bushel any- where in the county, or in Walla Walla county either. " Never before have I heard so much talk about hard times. The general question now is, is your grain attached ? There having been several attachments in this part. Cannot the merchants avoid heaping costs [say S150 each] on the already overburdened farmer until he can market his Avheat '? " Later. — "It is asserted by some of the inhabitants that there is not money enough in the county to pay its territorial tax, and we noticed four deputy sheriffs rustling for county taxes. One of these rustlers, but a short time since, was loud in liis denuuciations against having the stock sacrificed to get tax money, but he struck a happy thought, so he wrote to the sheriff for a deputy ship and obtained the same. About the first man he struck shamed him off of his place. Property must be sold for taxes if buyers are to be fonnd, and if not, then the county will have to collapse. We were told that one of the county commissioners said it was impossible for him to pay his taxes." However, I was fixed to pay my harvest and other ex- penses without selling my grain for 25 cents a bushel, and found a market at Lewiston that winter for the wheat at 45 and 50 cents a bushel, and barley at $1.25 per hundred pounds ; the latter delivered at Fort Lapwai, twelve miles beyond. Don't know what it cost the Government, which should buy direct from the producer. I induced the ferryman (Mr. Piercy) to cross my four-horse outfit over the river for $2 a round trip. I believe this was the first crop of grain ever ferried across Snake river. There was no one living on the road at the time from one and a half miles beyond my place to Lewiston, or between that place and Fort Lapwai. I had before made the first wagon tracks from my place to within five or six miles of Lewiston. During the summer and fall of 1876 there was quite a large immigration in this country, and the vacated claims about us were again taken and many new ones located. And settlement to farm was commenced in the "Dead- man," " Meadow Gulch" and " New York Gulch" sections, lying west of the lower Alpowa and south and east of Snake river, and north of the stage road and the Pataha creek. I believe 152 Building a Home. the first grain raised in this section was in 1878, after which time it was mainly settled. Two miners on the way from the Idaho mines had perished from the cold, or been killed for their dust at the head of Deadman hollow and creek near the road — hence the name of " Deadman." The gulch and stream are about 25 miles long. And settlement to farm was commenced in the Asotin country to the south-east. As it was also on the bench or plateau lands about Lewiston, 1876. With this immigration and these settlements, a town-site ("Columbia Centre ") was located four and a half miles west of my place, on this new road, at the forks of the Pataha, and a steam saw-mill, grist-mill, store and blacksmith shop set up. And the towns of Pomeroy and Pataha City on the creek lower down were started — each with a grist-mill, store and blacksmith shop, 1876-7. All of these places were between our place and Tu-Canyon, which up to this time had to be climbed over on the way to the mills, stores, graneries, etc., of " Egypt." A grist-mill was also built at Lewiston, 1876-7. Asotin City was laid out at the mouth of Asotin creek on Snake river, 1878 ; is now the capital of Asotin county. Sometimes immigrants settle in family or little contracted sectarian groups, each grovelling close within, averse to each other, the people and the world — as in a strange and foreign land, so that a full and general neighborhood meeting and greeting of a Sunday is never seen. While others of a more travelled and expansive turn, yearn to encompass broader fields. The one as insects whose world is but a single leaf. The other as comprehensive man, whose visions see and com- prehend the whole tree and forest. Yet by the sting of an insect, man may die, and by their multitude forests be destroyed. In the spring of 1877 the settlers in this " France Settle- ment " had a schoolhouse meeting, at which we agreed on a location for the proposed school house ; subscribed the neces- sary lumber, other material and work. And afterwards met from day to day, and built the best school house except one, I believe, then in the county. CHAPTER XI. An Indian war. — Neighboring Indians go ou the war-path. — The reason. — Descriiation of their domain. — Their horses and cattle. — "A job on Uncle Sam." — How they plead for their country. — "Earth governed by the sun, " etc. — Whom they killed. — How they marched and fought. — Settlers either stampede or gather in fortresses. — Efiforts made by men to have other tribes break out. — For plunder. — What an Indian must do to become a citizen. — How Indian claims are jumped. — What the Indian was before the advent of the Whites. — Their government, pursuits, etc. — What fire-arms and whiskey did for them. — How they started fire, lived and died. Their religion. — How to improve the Indian. — "A cry of the soul " i HE summer of 1877 Chief Joseph and his band of Nez-Perce Indians, joined by White Bird and Looking Glass with their bands of the same, went on the warpath against Gen'l Howard and his army, assisted by Generals Gibbons and Miles with their troops. The Indians numbered less than three hundred men, besides their women and children. They were non-treaty Indians, and each band owned separate tracts of country. Their country had been bartered to the Government many years before by a chief, who was not, however, recognized as such by this portion of the tribe. They denounced the trans- action as fraudulent, and could never be induced to receive any portion of the stipulated annuities or pay. The Government had built a grist- and saw-mill, and established an agency, and fenced and broke for them patches of land. But they were not to be deluded into civilization, and be governed by ring agents in any such way. They could see nothing in the mode and vexation of living, as practiced by the ignoble poor and ignorant of the Whites, to cause in them any desire to become similarly situated. They believed white men and their agents to be vile, grasping, treacherous, tricky and mighty uncertain. And the chiefs de- clared, that their people could not be educated to successfully compete with them, and combat their whiskey and contagious and loathsome diseases. As it was, they were healthy, well to do in their way, happy (153) 154 An Indian Wak. contented and free, and had leisure from toil. They could not see more for them in civilization. They could not expect to achieve for their race, that which a great majority of the white race were ever struggling and toiling for, but failed to possess and enjoy. Joseph's band consisted of eighty or hundred men, besides their women and children. I had seen him, and talked with many others of his band ; and was well acquainted with several of his tribe. One of whom had been to Washington, when they were bartering off their country, of which distinction he was very proud. It can easily be imagined, how the more simple of the Indians could be deluded, and the more vicious other- wise managed, by experts, employed but to succeed. I suppose the records at Washington show that every foot of land now, or ever, claimed by the Government, was honor- ably treated for and bought of the Indians. But, if the race was to-day strong, enlightened, and had a newspaper press, to work against diplomatic liars, they could, with any acknowl- edged standard of honor and law in one hand, and a rifle in the other, burst into flinders enough of such titles, to give each tribe a city and a good-sized bank account, — amid the plaudits of the whole world ; when, perhaps, they would take more kindly to civilization. A part of Joseph's coveted domain lay in my county, and, extending into Oregon, where it mainly consisted in the high, frosty Willowa valley, containing about enough arable land for each of his band a farm, less in extent than that allowed to citizens under the homestead, pre-emption and other acts. This section they used for a summer range for their herds of horses and cattle, just what it was best calculated for. The rest of their country was steep, rocky, wild and craggy ; consisting principally in a canyon, about 2500 feet deep, through which runs the rapid Grande Konde river, which empties into Snake river. Here is where they lived in the winter with their stock; this canyon affording a good winter range for them. There is no river bottom or arable land in it, except a patch here and there of a few acres, some of which the Indians fenced and cul- tivated. But it was all a good game country, and there was also good fishing. One could see bands of deer feeding a mile The Truth about Indians. 155 away, but it might take half a day to ride to them, on account of some deep, steep, rocky ravine intervening. There were also mountain sheep, elk, bear and other game. I was through this portion of Joseph's domain, hunting out a route for a through road from opposite Lewiston to the Wil-low-a country for the county. Others with me, who alike indignant and impressed with the ruggedness of it, declared that " Joseph must be putting up a job on Uncle Sam, to get him to buy the waste, and move him and his people to a country more suitable even for Indians." But with its good winter and summer grazing, its good hunting and fishing grounds, its rapid, laughing waters, and it being an inheritance from their fathers for many generations, it therefore just suited Joseph and his band. Joseph portrayed and supplicated with much feeling, in exhortation to the grasping invaders, how his grand father Joseph had, on his death bed, exhorted and obligated his father Joseph with a solemn injunction, to '* keep, cling to, and hold with his people this their country," and how, in turn, his father had laid the same injunction on him. But they exhorted and supplicated in vain. These Indians excelled most others in ability, appearance, living, dress and wealth. And they were peacefully disposed towards the Whites. I never heard of them stealing anything from even those who were encroaching on their domain. But the time had come, when they must forsake their country, go on to the reservation, and live as the poor, ignoble and ignorant white man lives, or fight ! In pleading their cause, one of them said, that " the Eartli was governed by the sun," and taking a piece of earth in his fingers, crumbled it fine, letting it fall to the ground, saying, that " rather than be ruled by the treacherous, grasping Whites, he would become as that piece of earth;" — dust to dust. And he died, fighting for his liberty and country. When war had been declared against them, they first killed the men they could find who had taken action for their removal from their country, about six. When with the bulk of their horses and their families on the travel with them, they combatted, out-generalled and out- 166 An Indian War. fought over 1000 soldiers, citizens and officials, who were en- gaged against them, in one way or another, all summtr. Old soldiers, who followed them all through the campaign to the surrender in Montana, say, that they were better trained and did fight and charge more bravely and desparately than our re- gular or irregular troops ; that their horses were trained to stand alone under fire, while they dismounted and charged the soldiers among the rocks and cliffs ; and that their systematic manoeuvering and horsemanship was unequalled anywhere. They would shoot under their horses' bellies, etc., while riding. An Indian of another tribe told me, that some of themselves had horses trained to drop down behind a bush, rock, fallen timber, or other obstruction, when under fire ; that he had a horse " that had more sense than himself." And these Indians never saw West Point. Joseph sternly opposed the committing of any outrages, usual in war, against persons or property, except as to those, who had or were actively engaged against them ; for which, it is said, the more vicious of them became rebellious. That this element had a captive woman with them, and, after some of their own women had been killed, they killed her in revenge, or that their squaws did it— the same, however, of whom white men frequently marry wives, and, 'tis said, they are good and true. That, after several of their own wives and children had been killed, Joseph saved, mounted on his horses, and sent away out of danger, women of his enemies, and for which some of his men called a counsel to kill him. At the outset it was unknown which way the Indians would go when attacked, to drive them to an equality with the ring- ridden Whites, or what depredations they would commit in re- venge. It was thought by many that they would raid through our and adjoining settlements ; a few soldiers were stationed at a pass back in the mountain, and for a time nearly everybody in the section about us, and to the south-east, either left this part of the country, or gathered into fortresses. Some were warned by Indians to leave. I was busy with my work all the time and did neither. I would sooner trust my home and family to Jo- seph and his tribe, than to many white men with more secret, self- ish and hellish tribal relations; as they are more vile, cruel and (157, 158 An Indian War. treacherous than the worst of savages, as will be made manifest to the most careless understanding. On account of their superior generalship and training, had the different Indian tribes of this upper country been so mind- ed, they could have laid waste all the settlements in the country, as Sheridan did the Shenandoah valley. And secret ring-men tried to instigate and goad them into a general out- break, so as to feast in the blood and destruction. While a peaceable chief (Moses) with good record and principle, was continually riding from one of his bands to an- other, to pacify, prevent and hold them from rising to join Joseph, White Bird and Looking Glass in their revenge, jobs were put up on him, and he was thrown into prison by the gang, backed by a servile press ; just as they do with other outsiders who are in their way, or to grasp their money. It does not appear that either General Howard or the Secretary of the Interior were in with this job ; as to which I herewith give an extract from the official report of the Secretary of the Interior at Washington, dated 1879. " There never was any trustworthy information in possession of this department, to justify any suspicion as to the conduct or intentious of this Indian chief (Moses), on the contrary, he is known to have rendered good service during the Bannock trouble, in maintaining peace and good order among the Indians under his influence. But the efibrts to take his life, or at least his liberty, or drive him into hostilities, appeared to be so per- sistent, that it required the most watchful and active interposition on the part of the Government to prevent a conflict. On several occasions I requested the Governor and General Howard to personally interfere and protect Moses." And it is further declared that by Moses' efforts a general Indian war was prevented. In Indian campaigns the transportation and supply accounts are immense, (though the common soldier often fares no better than the Indian warrior without any paid quarter- masters' department), and the plunder therein is a big object to secret brethren. " General Crook was asked if the present campaign would put an end to Indian outbreaks in Arizona. He answered with a smUe: 'I know and you know that a great many people make The Truth about Indi-\ns. 159 money out of Indian troubles. These same people exercise con- siderable influence in control of the Indians.' " The Nez-Perce Indians were rich in horses and cattle, and in land to sustain and enlarge them. Some of them owned one or two thousand horses. And among them were race horses, equal to those bred by their white neighbors, and which they would frequently beat on a track for coin. Several companies of volunteers went to assist General Howard and Co. in fighting these Indians, and they captured a good many horses and cattle. Every few days during the cam- paign some of them would pass my place with a band of Indian horses, and all covered with glory and dust. These bands numbered from a dozen to 150 head. Three men stayed at my place one night with 125 of Joseph's cattle. They thought the Indians had more stock and land than they needed. And men who had never earned a dollar by work in their lives, and would steal and ravage before they ever would work, exclaimed, that "the Indians should he made to ivork ! " To know and comprehend human character of each sort correctly, it must be realized that there are widely different elements and dispositions in each race, tribe and even family. That there are but individuals, or a comparatively small element of the Indians, that will flay alive a captive because he belongs to a hostile, grasping race. And we should show them that there are but indi\aduals, or a small element of Whites, who glory in killing their women of any tribe, and in dashing out the brains of their children on the rocks, or who kill Indians whenever they find them alone and defenseless, just because some other of their race had, perhaps, committed a similar out- rage on some one dear to them long before. And let us look to those of virtuous pretentions, in high station, who directly and indirectly practice, with impunity, heartless cruelties and traitorous prostitutions — deeds of dark- ness that would make a savage blush ! " To become a citizen, the Indian must make affidavit before some qualified person, that he has severed his tribal relations. He must also bring two witnesses, to testify that he has severed such relations." 160 An Indian War. Why is it that they are denounced, plundered and killed for clinging to their tribal relations and government, and re- quired to renounce that first, before they can be citizens with us in our Government ; while, at the same time, we suffer sivorn subjects of more secret and selfish tribal governments to pass as full-fledged citizens, and to hold oflB.ee and prostitute our Government, to rob us and the Indian with impunity ? " Sitting Bull is evidently a very observant Indian. He de- clares, that, if affairs continue on in the same groove, the Indians will not have ground enough left, upon which to stretch their tepees and rest their limbs, and that they will have to pay taxes and be as poor and ragged as pale -faces." As follows. — " A delegation of Indians came up, on their way to Fort Walla Walla, for a conference with the commanding officer, concerning the jumping of their land The Indian whose land has been confiscated is very intelligent. It seems that he had a small place under cultivation, with fence, house and stable. The jumper has filed on the land, and now requests the dusky Sis- kiow to hiack clatawa, or he will blow off the top of his head. Siskiow remarks that he is not as young as he used to be, or he should not allow the jumper, or any other man, to scare him out of house and home. He has concluded to have a talk with the commanding officer and the land agent at WaUa Walla, and find out whether he has any rights a Boston man is bound to respect." " This place was the scene of the misunderstanding last spring between the Whites and Indians, which looked as if it might prove serious. It seems but little encouragement for Indians to try and adopt the habits of their ' civilized ' brothers, by locating and cul- tivating then* land, if they are liable to lose it any time their im- provements are worth the taking." While we are enjoying the fame, glory, plunder and victory over these poor, damned, friendless Indians, let us at least con- cede to them the skill and the bare, fruitless sentiment of patriotism and valor that is due them. " Slowly and sadly they climb the distant mountain and read their doom in the setting sun." Intelligent old Indians, of different tribes, tell me that they were very numerous in the north-west before the advent of the The Truth about Indl\ns. 161 Whites. That they were healthy, vigorous, and endowed with fine constitutions, and were not on the decline. The jDrincipal trouble with them was that thej' gloried in war and plunder, one tribe with another, and battles in which 1,000 or more Indians were killed, are related. The smaller tribes would often combiue to fight a stronger one, such as the Sioux, as do civilized nations. And their great war chiefs were glorified as those of the Whites are to-day. It does not appear, however, that they were quarrelsome or criminally disposed within the tribes, and peace and justice were maintained without prisons or taxes, or much trouble or pain. They cultivated no habit or taste that could not be easily supplied to all. They enjoyed and had leisure for the hunt, as much as an English lord. They appear to have been more happy, and have gotten as much good out of life as do the ring- ridden, toiling masses of the Whites. The introduction of fire- arms among them, first by the Hudson Bay Fur Company, in- augurated a more peaceful era among the Indians, as the more destructive war machines have done among the civilized nations. But the whiskey, diseases and vices of the Whites have proved far more fatal to them than their wars. Con- sumption, deadly fevers, diphtheria, small-pox, measles, scro- fula, and more loathsome diseases are said to have been un- knoicn to the Indian until they had known civilization. Nor did they have any medical colleges or dollar-a-mile doctors. A steam bath in their " sweat house " was a remedy for about all their illness. They had no taste for salt and used none ; nor tobacco, opium, etc. They started fires with punk and friction. The whirling of a hard stick set on to punk, by looping the stick in a bow string, will soon produce fire. The greater part of the country west of the Missouri river is more adapted to the raising of buffalo, deer, elk, goat, bear, rabbit, and other game, and horses, than for anything else. And before the advent of civilization — that slaughtered them ofi" for their pelts, and the sport (?) of hunting down, maiming, killing, and seeing God's beautiful creatures sufier, quiver, and die — there was a great abundance of such food supply. Deer was as easily caught as sheep are now, and destroyed the 11 162 An Indian War. crops of the first settlers on Puget Sound. This great natural food supply — together with the fish, clams, berries, roots, and seeds that made a rich flour, afforded food in great abundance, more healthy and better than that had by millions of the children of boasted, flaunted civilization, with all their endless toil, diseases, vexation, sorrow and vices. And by a little care and regulation this natural God-given food and clothing supply could have been increased to support a population — dressed in seal-skin and martin, instead of calico and dungaree — as dense as in the present toiling, vexatious and vicious way. It seems that even in Europe it has been found the best economy to raise game instead of grain. Grasshoppers, un- seasonable weather, fashion, the prosperity of others, had no terrors for the Indians, and they knew not suicide or insanity. Thus did the red man live — able to spurn common toil like a prince, enjojdng the sports of the chase like a nobleman, the glories of war like a Bonaparte, Hannibal, and Grant. And had leisure for study and that rest, that the "Whites can only hope and pray for in heaven. This thing, called civilization indeed ! has proved to be a humbug to every people in the history of the world that have tried it very long, so that they either called a halt, like the Chinese, or perished like the Indian under the ban. As to the religion of the Indian before the advent of the Whites, it appears to have been similar to that of the Chinese from whence the race is believed by themselves to have come (crossing Behring Strait, or by the Islands). It is a sort of Spiritualism — that all animals have immortal spirits. It is in accordance with the same that they had their favorite or attached horses, etc., killed at their death, believing that the attachment and association of these spirits —man and horse, etc. —before death would continue after death in some form if freed of the body by its death. They worshipped the sun, etc., as great sources or main- springs of life and goodness, as some Christian people do the " harvest moon." They say as to their belief in an intelligent supreme ruling power, a living God, " great spirit," " happy hunting ground," The Truth about Indians. 163 or any comprelieDsive future existence, that this is all au in- vention of the Whites. Like so many of the Whites, the religious belief of most of the Indians is very vague, and they are ready to change it for anything else that will give them cash or in- creased happiness in hand. If the Indians are to be benefitted by the better element of civilization, they must be dealt with more honestly by the Government, and protected against the depravity of the worst elements, masonic agents, etc., or else be permitted to protect themselves against the lurking serpents. And the same can well be said as to the simplest and artless of the white race also. A CRY OF THE SCUL. " I have read in the lore of long ago How a symbol of our life below Is a boat with palsied men to row, And a blind man at the rudder ; Or a pensive, mild-eyed mo,*,her of kine Th;it roots and grubs in the ground like swine, With a serpent at the udder. O shaven priest, that pratest of souls, Knowest thou not that men are moles That blindly grope and burrow ? The field that is gray shall be green again. But whether with grass or whether with grain He knoweth who turns the furrow ! It is only a step from cradle to grave, And the step mv.st be taken by knight and knave» By stupid alike and clever ; For sleep is a death that lasts but a night. And death is a sleep when the lips are white, And open no more forever. O poet, be still, with thy maudlin verse ; For singing of love, when love is a curse, Neither mai's the thing nor mends it ; And sui'e as death and sleep are twins, So life in mystery begins, And another mystery ends it ! 164 An Indian War. And lie who only sleejjs for a niglit, Tliongli never before were his dreams so bright, Shall surely aAvakeu wiih the light To another day of sorrow ; So better by far the sleep of the dead, For the sleeper that sleeps it need not dread, Though hard be the pillow beneath his head, Tbe doom of a sad to-morrow. Ah, life is a riddle that none can guess ; And wlleth^>r it curse, or Avhether it Ijless, Dei)ends on no endeavor ; For the spider of fate, with a thousand eyes. Sits weaving its Aveb for human flies ; And the flies buzz on forever ! And the wolf of hunger, gaunt and grim, Full often stops at the door of him Who was cradled in bliss and splendor. And the wolf of sin and the wolf of woe Lie in wait for souls that are white as snow, For the spider of fate is their sender. And the king, who lifted his hand to slay, Aud the priest whose blue lips tried to pray, And the beggar in rags, who begged his way, All beaten and brown with the weather ; And the poet, who sang his song so sweet That the maiden knelt and kissed his feet, While he wrapped her about with her winding sheet, They are all rank grass together. , And the greener the grass on graves, 'tis said, The surer its roots to be damj? and dead. For both have a common mother ; And death is a rest, and death is a sijell; And life is lieaveu, and life is hell, But each completes the other. Ah, true was the myth of long ago, That a symbol of our life below Is a boat with palsied men to row. And a blind man at the rudder ; For life is a pensive mother of kine, That roots and grubs in the ground like swine, With a serpent at the udder. " CHAPTER XII. Indians, conlinued. — Chief Joseph. — White Bird. — Looking Glass, and In- dians generally.— The Wliite Bird fight.— These Indians in early- days. — Their flocks, herds and fine farms. — The resnlt of tlie war to the Indians. — "Cold-blooded treachery. '"-How chief Joseph treated ■white prisoners.— "The glory of the West."— Col. Steptoe's defeat. — "For God's sake, give me something to kill myself with." The others saved hy other Indians. — An ingrate.— Col. Wright's victory.— GOO horses butchered. — How Wright treated Indian prisoners. — "The Chief Moses outrage." — 370,000,000 squandered by the gang. Will resume as to the Nez-Perce, or Joseph, White Bird and Looking Glass outbreak, and Lidian affairs generallj^, by condensing from the press. The White Bird Fight, near Fort Lapwai, Idaho, 1877. *' When the Indians attacked CoL Perry with about fifty men, they expected to be repulsed, and then fall back about a mile where was their reserve force of about sixty, entrenched for the pui'pose of receiving the troops, as they pursued the advance skirmish on their retreat. But their advance never had to retreat, for Col. Perry and the troops fled in precipitancy almost at the fii'st fire, and never did stop until they had gone four miles up the canyon. The Indian reserve never came into the fight, except a few old squaws, who, on seeing the soldiers in flight, followed close up, to plunder the dead. They were frightened at the fu-st volley discharged in their direction, and Col. Perry was determined to save his own scalp by flight. So demoralized was he, that he said, he kept one charge in his revolver in order to shoot himself, in case the Indians were about to capture him. He had rode down one horse and took another, belonging to a soldier; and had not W. B. Bloomer, a citizen, notified him of his danger of annihila- tion, he would have rushed into Rocky canyon and been slaughter- ed. Bloomer called to him to stop, when PeiTy says to him, ''then you lead the way out of this." But Lieutenant Theller gathered six or eight soldiers around him, and stood off the Indians and fought them until every man of his squad, including himself, was shot down. And for eleven days Col. Perry's dead soldiers lay nu)rtifying in the hot sun on the field of battle, while the Colonel [a mason J and his fleeing (165) 166 Indians, Continued. force were at Cottonwood in good quarters, and the Indians liad left and gone to Salmon river and across. The citizen volunteers bm'ied Perry's dead. Manuel lay concealed in the brush near by, and personally saw the Indians, when they made their breast works of rails, the number who w^ere there, and the mimber who sallied out to meet the soldiers; and he says that not more than fifty of the Indian warriors left the breast works, and that there were not at any time more than 200 Indians in the hostile party at the time of the White Bird fight, and from fifty to sixty of these were women and children. After the fight, when they had their revelry over the victory they had gained over the soldiers, Manuel was within a few yards of the i)arty, concealed in the brush, and could see and hear all that was done and said. He is willing to make oath that at that time not more than 200 men, women and children were in the hostile party. Such are some of the facts that [Mason] the pretended histo- rian should have embodied in his pretended history, instead of ex- cusing the commander [Mason], Avho held the key position on the hill, when the fighting commenced, and could have easily held it." — ^' Lnviaton Telln\" Why should the people support a horde of such loafers to command real citizens of the Government in time of war ? "Chief Joseph. — By his performances became entitled to be recognized as one of the remarkable men of the age. One more day's march would have placed him inside the British dominions. For four months he had eluded his pursuers, having travelled more than 1500 miles through the wildest, rockiest and most mountainous region in America. He had crossed ranges, leaped canyons, and swam mountain torrents; all this while carrying with him, on this remarkable flight, the women, children and property of his tribe. He had been pursued altogether by several armies, any one of which far outnumbered his force. He had fought five battles against an enemy, supplied with all the re- sources of modern warfare, and each time he had been practically victorious. Had he had the least suspicion of Miles' approach, it is evident that his fertile genius would have eluded his enemies once more, and have been able to laugh at all their toil." "A Black Page of History. — In the fine address delivered before the Oregon Pioneers' Association by Col. Geo. H. Curry, Indians, Continued. 1G7 "we fiud the following : On the third day from seeing the signal smoke [while immigrating to Western Oregon in early days], we arrived at the rim of the Grande Koude valley. Looking down upon this, the most beautiful valley in Oregon, we could see large numbers of Indians riding over the plains. No choice was left us, friendly or warlike, we had to pass through that valley, and down the hill we started. Reaching the foot, we soofi learned that the Indians we liad seen were a large band of Cayuses and Xez- Perces, who, following a custom taught them by Dr. Whiteman, had come this far, to meet the immigrants, trade with them, and protect them from the Snake Indians. Here, for the first time in several months, we felt safe, and went to sleep without guard, leaving our hungry stock to feed at will among the abundant herbage of the Grande Eonde. The smoke which had caused so much apprehension was the Xez-Perces' signal of aid. It was the fiery banner of friendship and succor, sent aloft by these dusk}^ people to proclaim theii* presence and good will. The sad reflection, consequent uj)on reading this passage, is, that these friendly Indians, who protected the weary and famish- ing Oregon pioneers, should have subsequently been the object of the most outrageous, unjust and inhuman persecution that our Government ever inflicted upon the Indians. Generals Howard, Gibbons and Miles, who were obliged, under the orders of the Government, to execute Secretary Schurz's inhuman orders for the ejection of the Nez-Perc^s from their homes, unanimously testified, that these Indians had reached a comparatively high stage of civilization ; they had flocks and herds, had fine farms ; were a brave, manly, sj)irited race of men, and so humane, that they forebore to murder, scalp, or otherwise torture our wounded, that feU into their hands. In their retreat through our settlements they did not mun-ler or rob ; they paid for their supplies and only asked a peaceful passage in their flight. Gen. Gibbons describes Chief Joseph as a man of high intelligence, and of superior military talent, whose men were equal, man for man, to our soldiers, and who out-gene- ralled and out-fought us in every fight. [Why should not such In- dians be given commands in the army, over the masons, in times of war?] When Chief Joseph surrendered to General Miles on honorable terms, which stipulated that his people should not be removed to Indian territory. Secretary Schurz disgraced the 168 Indians, Continued. / Government by violating the terms of surrender, [but was the masonic President dead ?] and General Miles never ceased to pro- test against this outrage. But Schurz persisted in removing them to a district in Indian territory, where the tribe died of disease, like sheep with the foot rot. The only excuse for the Nez-Perce war was that greedy men wanted the splendid grazing and farming lands of the tribe. [There was plenty of just as good and better land that was vacant at that time ; it was more for the plunder of the Indians of their other property, and the Government, in the furnishing and trans- portation of supplies by the gang that had so much evil influence at court, and are sworn subjects of their secret mogul govern- ment that prostitutes ours.] So these Indians, who had pro- tected the Oregon pioneers, who had offered an asylum to settlers fleeing from the savages in the Indian war, who had laid aside the inhuman practices of scalping and torture of captives, [even while the Government hired and armed other Indians who did this against the Nez-Perc<^s], who were rising steadily in the scale of industrial and agricultural civilization ; these Indians were lashed and goaded into rebellion, and fought a heroic fight against our soldiers, who heartily sympathized with these brave men whom they were ordered by the cold-blooded [tools of the gang] to shoot down and evict from their homes. It is the blackest picture in the whole history of the dealings of the Government Avith the Indian [but it is not very far from a fair sample of the whole], and we have no doubt, that the Oregon pioneers who were aided in the Cayuse war by these Nez-Perces, agree with General Gibbons, who to this day pronounces the Nez-Perce war as a cruel outrage, contrived by [the gang] and executed by a secretary of the interior, who was as cold-blooded and treacherous as the meanest savage that ever wielded the tomahawk and the scalping knife." — Portland Oregonian. Yet he Avas a pretty good Christian compared to brethren who were appointed to high offices out here. "Arkansas City, Kan., March 26, 1885. — Information is received here that the remaining members of the Nez-Perce Indian tribe, with the noted Chief Joseph, are to be transferred from their present reservation in Indian territory, where they are dying by the score from broken hearts, to their old reserva- tion in Idaho. In 1877, when Joseph and his men went to war Indians, Continited. 169 with the Whites, he conducted one of the'most wonderful marches and succession of fights in the annals of Indian warfare, and when, at last, he surrendered to General Miles at Bear Paw moun- tain, Montana, in the fall of 1877, he was over 900 miles from his reservation. Chief Joseph, at last, would only throw down his arms upon the promise that he and his tribe should be returned to their old reser- vation. And so weU were they intrenched behind stone fences and breastworks, that Miles' men could not dislodge them, and at one period of the fight, when General Miles asked his command if they could not drive them out by assault, they replied, ' Charge hell ! We are not Sioux ! ' it being generally known that the Sioux were the only Indians that would charge the Nez-Perces. The tribe are to be transferred to the land of their forefathers. Of the 600 men, women, and children, Avho surrendered, over 300 have died of broken hearts, and the only flourishing spot within 100 miles of their present reservation is their graveyard, where newly made graves are to be seen on all sides. Chief Joseph has cheered up his tribe by the words that some time the Great Father at Washington [with the permission of the gang] would keep his word and let them return to their own hunting grounds near the setting sun." "Chief Joseph, the Nez-Perce, who, with his tribe, 800 strong, of the best fighters the United States troops ever met in field, canyon or ambuscade, broke out in June, 1877, and after a march of nearly 2,000 miles, were finally captured at Bear Paw mountain, near the British line, in November, the same year, are now on their way back to the home they love so well in Idaho, Of the 800 who left but 250 are left, and of these 119, with Chief Joseph, will be taken to the Colville reservation, and the re- mainder will be taken to Lapwai. With the single exception of Joseph himself, the Chiefs of the outbreak are all dead, juooking Glass was killed by General Miles' troops at Bear Paw, Rainbow we saw lying dead with a bullet through his brain and his face up- turned to the sky on the Big Hole battle-ground ; he was the first Indian killed as he was going out at daybreak to gather in his horses. Tool-hool-hool-suit was killed on the same field and his body dug up by Howard's Bannock scouts, scalped, and a general war dance and coiTobboree held over his carcass. Caps-caps, who was prominent in the Salmon river massacre [?] is also dead, 170 Indians, Continued. having been killed in orte of the numerous engagements. On the surrender, General Miles gave his word to Joseph that he should be returned to his own country, but such has been the opposition of the white people [who had stolen tlieir property and had influ- ence at court] it has not until now [when their property is secured beyond their reach so they cannot " make trouble "] deemed ad- visable to allow them to return, and, hence, Joseph will be phiced on a reservation far remote from the scene of his depredations. Whenever he had the opportunity, he spared the lives of the prisoners who fell into his hands, and caused to be delivered, safely and unharmed, two ladies, who with their party were at the time in Yellowstone Park. Joseph interceded and sent them on their way rejoicing, when they had been condemned to death. [I wonder whether these ladies did anything for Joseph's justice when Jie was in distress.] He has paid dearly for his crimes [?] the vengeance of all should be glutted by this time.'' [Having got away with their homes and herds, and robbed tlie Government out of big piles of money ; yes, these gentlemen, who " lashed and goaded them into an outbreak " for plunder, might forgive them now, if they will forget it all and say nothing about it.] ''At last, after waiting nearly eight j-ears, the remnant of the Nez-Perce tribe, which was transported to Indian territory, after the surrender of Chief Joseph, is to be brought back. Of over 500 persons that left, less than half remain, the others filling graves in the land of their exile. The stor}' of this exile is a pitiful one, and that they have amply atoned for their crime [?] as a tribe few will deny. Since their departure great changes have taken place in their old homes, and theii* return need cause no alarm, for it will be a broken-hearted, broken-spirited band, filled only with the desire to live at peace with their surroundings, and lay their bones in the soil their ancestors have claimed for generations past." March, 1885. " The Nez-Perces and Cayuses were, by all means, the great- est tribes west of the Rocky Mountains. Why, the}' used to roam as far east as the Missouri river on their hunting expedi- tions, and if they chanced to meet a war party of any tribe, they w^re ready and prepared to uphold by strength of arms the glory of the West. An officer who fought in the rebellion, told me that some of the fiercest and most valiant fighting he ever engaged in was with Indians, Continued. 171 the Nez-Perces. They, he said, maintained a solid front in battle, and fired and nianoeuvered as if they had been drilled by a graduate of West Point." But they o«<^-manoeuvered and ichipped such graduates. "Story of Col. Steptof/s Defeat by the Spokane Indians. And Col. Wright's Victory over the Same and their Horses. By L., in '-Oregonian." In the spring of 1858, some Palouse Indians stole some stock belonging to the Government from the vicinity of Fort Walla Walla, of which Lieutenant-Colonel Steptoe was in command, at the same time certain complaints of disturbances and dangers caused by Indians, and suffered by miners in or proceeding to the Colville mines, were also brought to the same officei*'s notice. Two miners coming overland from Thomjjson river, British Columbia, to Colville, had fallen victims to the savage ferocity of some natives, of what tribe it is impossible to say. Such being the case, Steptoe judged it proper to conduct an armed expedition to Colville to inquire into the matter, and punish the murderers and restore order. On his return he " allowed " (Steptoe was a Southerner) to stop in at the home of the Palouses and see about the stock they had lifted. The Palouses were not, on the whole, very desirable neighbors. If there ever existed a people to which they might fairly be compared, it must have been the ancient Scotch borderers, whose business was theft, and whose numbers, as in the case of the Indian tribe, were recruited from the worst and most desperate individuals of all the neighboring nations. Notice must here be taken of the beginning of the trouble — the proposed government military road from Walla Walla to Fort Benton, on the upper Missouri. [This road alone cost the Govern- ment more than would have opened 1,000 miles of river naviga- tion free to the people, down to the sea. And it was not half built. And the Government spent ten times as much on each of other roads that were never even open to travel, j The military and topographical engineers had pronounced it practicable, and the secretary of war had ordered the survey. Lieutenant JMulhin was ordered to perforin the work, and was to have an escort of soldiers from Walla Walla. He was to set out in May, 1858, but so slow were the motions of the authorities that the Indians heard 172 Indians, Continued. of it, and immediately concluded that it was but a move designed for taking away their country. They became nervous, and their spirits being preyed upon by designivg men, they combined for resistance. It is proven by good evidence that when Steptoe and his 150 men set out on May 6, 1858, to march north-east from Walla Walla, the supply of amnumition which was intended to ))e taken, was taken back to the magazine because there was no room for it in the packs of the 100 mules. So the men set out with only the ammunition carried in their cartridge boxes. Hence occurred the disaster. The force consisted of two howitzers, five company officers, and 152 men. The line of march led through what are now Columbia and Garfield counties, and the Snake river was reached at Alpowa creek, where a small band of Nez-Perces resided, whose chief, Timothy — a Christian Indian — was a firm friend of the Whites, and who still continues to live at the spot. Timothy, with three warriors, joined the command — a circumstance upon which de- pended the lives of all. Marching north, the expedition ap- proached four lakes, (the medical lakes) where a great body of Indians were met, who threatened violence if the troops did not at once turn back and get out of the country. It was resolved to return to Walla Walla. They broke camp at three o'clock in the morning, followed by all the noisy horde of savages, who seemed intent on fighting, and only waited for the troops to strike the first blow. Saltees, a Cour d'Alene chief, appeared, accompanied by Father Josef, the missionary to that tribe, and held a conference with Steptoe, the missionary interpreting. The chief then shouted something to his followers, when Levi, of the Nez-Perces, struck him on the head with a whip handle, exclaiming, "What for you tell Steptoe you no fight, and then say to your men, wait awhile? You talk two tongues.'' [Getting civilized like a Governor.] The fight began as the command approached Pine creek. Ap- proaching this creek, the command passed down a ravine, and on reaching the stream the Indians commenced firing from the brush on the south side and from various elevated points near by. Lieuteiuint (Gaston charged forward and cleared a way to the highlands southward, and the entire force gained a commanding position. The howitzers were unlimbered and opened on the foe, and one or two charges were made. Two privates were wounded and a blundering soldier killed a friendly Nez-Perce, mistaking Indians, Continued. 173 him for an eueiny. Again the retreat was resumed and continued through the forenoon, the Indians following closely and fighting with the troops in the rear. As long as their ammunition held out they were kept at bay, but Gaston's men having fired their last cartridge, he (Gaston) sent to Steptoe requesting him to halt long- enough to procure ammunition. The request was not granted. On an-iving at Cache ci"eek, word was passed that Lieutenant Gaston was killed, and the order to halt was given. A Aiolent struggle took place over his body, the Indians securing it. Tay- lor was killed there and two privates, Barnes and DeMay, were killed or mortally wounded, and another one was wounded by an arrow from a dying savage. Lieutenant Gregg caUed on the main body of troops for volunteers to relieve the rear guard, but only ten men responded. He ordered them to fall in behind him, but looking back directly after, found himself all alone. The heroic rear guard repulsed the Indians, however, and the com- numd went into camp on the spot. Pickets were thrown out, and such of the dead as could be found were buried here. The howitzers were also buried, but the pack train and provisions it was decided to leave for the Indians, in order to delaj^ their pursuit. The savages were encamped in plain sight in the bottom waiting the mori'ow, when they would make a last onslaught and end the contest mth a general massacre. Their sentinels had surrounded the camp, and were guarding all the avenues of exit save one, which it was not supposed the soldiers could traverse. But this became their salvation, for the pass was known by the Nez-Perce, Timothy, and through it he led the ti'oops to safety. But for him, probably, not one of the command would have escaped. The night was dark and cheerless, and when the proper time arrived the entire force mounted and followed the chief in sinTf he. Made i until such lands 1 executed this .he .^.^TZy of C>^^--t^t.,.>VM^ the Jloard of County i?omniissiol ,f Columbia County. Washington Territory, party of, tbe t^T/. v2A^;^ aaid law, lias granted, demised, aod to farm let, and )>y iSfte prcsejits does Rrant, demise, and to farm let, with the said party of the second psrt. all the ccrtmti lot piece .or parcel vf f;inj, situate, lyin^ «i.H bcinj ijj the County of Columbia, Territory of Washinpon. Jesciibrd as folio V>Wi! : -^ (^££^Y'^^ y'i^cja^^(ieZj 111 atoorjtiocc with the surveys ii.id i>I.'\tsf>f the United Stjics Oovcfpmcnt. with the appuriviijiices^fiir the term of.if? rara, fnmi the ...C^ day of :^jl^ i>Dd not to cut or defttroy iiny litober growing upon said Undn, during said teriu. the name heing hfrrhi; rr*Tvfil Ay the iai/ the/n/ part ; and agreeing aUo that nil the fcncio;; and utiicr iniprnvturenU put HDOn 9nid land, duriit;^ said term, shall attach to and become a part of the realty nt the expiration uf n.iid term. And that oil the la.nt dny of tho said term, or other sooner determination of iho cniate heicby grained, tbe said party vf the second part, hl^ exeeators, adrainiiRrators and afwigns. shall and will peaceably ntid quietly, Kave, surrender and yield up unto the said party of the 6rst part, alt and Hiogular tho said pminiseA together with tho appurtenances. And the »id party of the first p«rt do«s hereby govcftant, prnmise and afjree, that the avid party of the aerond pari, paying the said rent, and performing the covonanu nfuresutd. shall aod iDsy peocerbly and quic'ly hsve, hold and enjoy ih* said premiic^ for the term aforesaid. Iti WjTNEl>S Whereof, the said parties have hcrcanto set their hands afid seals,' the dsy and year fint above written Sigoed sealed and delivered In preaeocc of \ J/^(^..MC^... X^^6>.^^ School Land Lease. (Reduced to one half of tlio oilglnal size.) (217) 2] 8 Eanch Life in the West. " The organic act of Congress declares tliat 'all laws passed by the legis- lative Assembly and Governor of ' Washington territory, shall be submitted to Congress, and, if disaj^proved, shall be null and of no effect." "The act of 1867, making the bi-annual sessions of the legislature be- gin two months earher in the odd year, was not disapproved by Congress, but by vii'tue of the ride, 'silence gives assent,' teas approved." And the legislature henceforth acted accordingly — as though the act had been formally approved. As did the courts and people as to the other acts of the legislature. It teas and is the universal custom/or laics, to be in force until congress, or the courts, or the legislature abrogates them. And so it was with this school-land act. It was forthwith made available and largely availed of. And on its being questioned, as all laws are for a price, the U. S. Attorney General wrote as follows, to the terri- torial Delegate in Congress. j Department of Justice. I Washington, June 7th, 1880. Sib: It seems to me ujion a careful reading of the laAV referred to, that the commissioners themselves, as representing the county, are invested with power to protect the interests of the county in sections 16 and 36, which were reserv^ed by Congress for the benefit of the common schools therein. I infer this from the authority given them, to locate other lands in case sections 16 and 36 are occupied by actual settlers prior to the survey there- of. Under this authority to locate, they may take possession, and so of sections 16 and 36, if not occupied by actual settlers prior to the survey thereof. The statute gives to the territory the title and the right of possession, and the proper rej^resentatives of the tenitoiy who for this jjurjiose are, I presume, the county commissioners, may institute proceedings to defend that possession, or to recover it as against trespassers. Very resijectfully, Your obedient servant, Chas. Devens, Attorney General." From the Press. — "W at.t.a WaujA, Oct. 14th, 1882. For the informa- tion of "Inquirer" it is stated that many years ago the legislature of Wash- ington territory, by solemn enactment, authoiized the commissioners of the different counties to lease school lands, the rents to be added to the school fund of the county wherein the lands were situated. Does "Inquirer" wish to decrease the school fund by abohshing the practice ? If so he must either appeal to the legislature to repeal the law, or induce a court of comjietent jurisdiction to declare the act as unauthorized." Kanch Life in the West. 219 1885. — "The commissioners of King county, [Western Washington] are doing considerable business in tlie way of leasing school lands. These lands are leased in tracts of IGO acres, or less, at ten dollars a year for each tract, the leasea running for six years. [Lurking brethren could, and did lease, irJ/ole . fed ions and held them]. It is impossible to sell these lands before the Territory becomes a State. They, however, are in great request, and the leases are eagerly sought, it behig understood that when the lands are sold, the occupants shall have the first right to purchase at the ap- praised price. The county is entitled to 75,000 acres, and if all leased even at the low price of ten dollars a year, a revenue Avould thereby be secured of ^5000 or more. With no effort made in the past, $450 a year is now obtained in this way. The school lands of King county will be worth millions of dollars in time to come." In 1888 there were 5000 such leases as mine held, and Congress formally approved the same as follows : — " Washington Territory School Lands. The following is an act of Congress ' ' for the rehef of certain settlers upon the school lands of Washington temtory : " Whereas, Sections 16 and 36 of each township of land in Washington territory was reserved unto that territory for school piirposes ; and Whereas, On December 2, 1869, the legislative assembly of that territory, by an act duly passed, authorized the county commissioners of the several counties in that territory to lease said lands for a term of years not exceeding six years, the money received therefore being placed in the school fund ; and Whereas, The lands so leased are greatly enhanced in value by the cultivation thereof, and the lessees thereof have made valuable improve- ments thereon and incurred large expense in reducing siich land to a state of cultivation, and vnH. incur much loss if they are caused to abandon their said improvements and cultivations ; and Whereas, The vaUdity of the said leases is questioned ; therefore, Be it enacted, etc. , That the action of the county commissioners of the several counties of Wasliington territory under the authority supposed to reside in the act of the legislative assembly of said territory of December 2, 1869, entitled, "an act to provide for the leasing of school land in Wash- ington territory," when had in conformity to said act, be, and the same hereby is, confirmed, and that said act be, and the same is hereby, vali- dated and confirmed. Approved, August 6, 1888." I spent part of the following months of February and IMarch, 1878, in viewing out and locating county roads in the Asotin country, being appointed with two others by the board of county commissioners to act in that cajjacity. 220 Kanch Life in the West. Then I hired two men to make rails at twenty dollars per thousand, one to help farm and break prairie on the school land claim at thirty dollars a month, and one to attend to the cows, hogs, chickens, and assist about the house. Was road supervisor of this district, then over 20x20 miles in extent. That spring we got the through road to Dayton and Lewiston opened all the way for the first. In June I served on the grand jury of the first court session ever held in Coluinbia county ; wherein I experienced that it is an easy matter to indict an outsider, while worse criminals (being in a charitable order) are secure against out- raged justice. Then, until harvest, I was engaged mostly in hauling over 10,000 rails from the mountains and fencing the school land I had leased and partly broke out. Some of the rails I bought at forty dollars per thousand, delivered on the ground. "Book" or Greeley farming is good in its place, but would not pay here ; and he who was educated in such a school and was bigoted, or could not bend to adverse circumstances or ex- ceptions to accepted general rules could do a thing in but one way, would break up very quick or fail in making anything to break. There are circumstances in which it is the best econ- omy for the settler to raise wheat, horses, hogs and calves together in the same field (though frequently done when not the best economy) and to raise potatoes by dropping the seed as he plows the ground, run over it with a harrow, let them go until fall, and then plow them up or turn the hogs in to harvest them. Sometimes good cultivation of a crop pays best, and then again no culture at all is the best econom}'. I can raise more truck with a team and plow than alone with a hoe. Horse flesh is cheaper than that of a man — if he be a man — and is more pleasant to wear off. I can ride over more ground than I can walk over. A farmer and his family should not be harder worked or fed than his cattle, and tlieij should have leisure and plenty that is good, too. I have read expert testi- mony in agricultural papers and books until — like reading law books — I did not know anything for certain. I have experi- mented and closely observed in every branch and phase of work I ever pursued. Have plowed bodies of land up to the Kanch Life in the West. 221 beam, and adjoining it have skinned the ground and skipped a foot at eveiy furrow and turn for acres together. Have rolled grain before it was up, and when it was six to eight inches high with a heavy four-horse roller (which I had read Avould even kill Canadian thistles). Have rolled it in the dust ; in the mire ; and have not rolled it at all. Have sown it on foot, on horseback and out of a wagon ; in the spring, summer, fall and winter time ; and have just let it volunteer from the last crop. Have harvested it with cradle and rake; with reaper; header, and have turned stock in to do it. Have threshed with machine ; tramped it out with a bunch of horses, and have pounded it out with a club. And in potatoes and other truck have experimented as widely, and in their different varieties, and in each and every case have been both ridiculed and flattered by others. Have broke horses under the saddle; to the wasrou, plow, harrow, and have more frequently just went to work with them without any breaking; and have fed them on patent medicine, wheat, — until I foundered four at a time, until they learned better and could safely eat it from a pile on the ground, and have let them get their living on the range. Have killed hogs, planted gardens, and layed worm fence in all stages of the moon — in sunshine, moonshine, and in the shade. Have put salt and pepper in cows' tails to cure the " hollow horn," and have cut off pigs tails to make them weigh 411 pounds with but little feed. Have worked sixteen hours a day, and have followed the sensible eight hour system, of eight hours for ivorh, eight hours for sleep, and eight hours for re- creation and study. And I have learned that the one of any of these ways is the best for the farmer, that is the easiest. Just so long as it is fixed that he is to get but a hard living anyway, and the profits of his toil goes to enrich mystic gangs of "ser2)ents at the udder." CHAPTER XV. Land jumping. — First serious case in the "France settlement." — Our gi-aveyard started. — The "iioor man's friend." — Street fight with a jumper. — "Hurrah for Whetstone Hollow !" — Pulihc sentiment as to such cases. — When the courts and press stand in with the peoj^le, and when against them. — Land sharks. — How petty thieves are shot down with impunity. — Home wreckers. — How my prosjjerity made me an object of envy and ravage. — A murderous conspiracy by gentlemen Anth gTeat influence at coui-t to jump my j^re-emption and school-land portions of my well earned, improved and stocked home. — The lying lire texts that were invented and used as a bhnd. — Jumji all the water on my place. — "If you want any water, dig for it ! " — Wanted to get me into the gang's court. — How I repossessed my own. — " W^ill fix you by helping H — jump jonv school land ! " — How I had befriended them. — "Damned be he who first cries hold: enoiigh!" — Tries to drive me off with a gun. — And we get better acquainted ; get friendly, and he agrees to quit. — How I was performing my homage against a lurking foe. — His object. — Is set to resume the conflict. — "An outrage for one man to own all the land and the water, too! " — "Will settle it AAdth an ounce of lead ! " etc. — Boasts of his bacldng and infliience. — "We will make it hot as hell for you now." — "I have taken your school land, E — , your pre-emption, and by G-d ! we will soon have a man on your homestead ! " — A man loans me his pistol for defense, and then eggs on the jumper. — The lying gang. — "But truth shall conquer at the last." — Jumper's many Avicked threats. — Try to have him bound over to keej? the peace. — My instructions from. the peace officer. — "Be prej^ared to defend yourself and sow the ground." — He loans me seed for the purpose. — "There comes [Jumper] now with a gun !" — "Let us go oiTt and see what he is going to do with it ! " — "I don't care a damn what he does with it ! " — How he followed me around the field with a cocked carbine in both hands. — Quits and has a secret confer- ence. — "I ask you as a friend and neighbor to quit soA\-ing wheat and leave the field, for there is going to be trouble ! " — "Look out for him now ! " — Belches out at the end of a stream of profanity, "turn back ! leave the field ! and don't come back nary time ! " — "I will fix you ! " a'iick, bang! "1 10111 kill yoii!" crack, haiuj ! — I return the fire in quick succession, thus saving my life. — Posit we, certain, incontrovertible proof as to the same. — How he missed me by a scratch and killed the horse. — "There, France is shot!" — The lying and perjured gang. — - " Wliere logic is inverted and wrong is called right." — Am charged with murder ! — The would-be assassin, home ravager and ravislier is shielded, venerated and revenged by his gang. — "If by this means we can fux-ther our cause, the private assassin deserves our applause." — (222) I Shanghaied to the Gang's BAbTiLE. 223 Am thrown into jail without a hearing. — Held in jail nearly ten months begging and demanding a trial. — Can never get either a trial or hear- ing. — "Virtue distressed " could get no protection here. — Am betrayed, sold and given away. — "His glories lost, his cause betrayed!" — Shanghaied to the gang's bastile in double irons. — "Oh! 'twas (oo much, ioo dreadfid to endure ! " — " He jests at scars that never felt a •wound ! " — "Is this then" thought the youth, "is this the way to free man's spirit from the deadening sway of worldly sloth ; to teach him while he lives, to know no bliss but that which \drtue gives?" — Examples of other cases, and what the law is. — My case as established and the law, etc., as to the same. • "But pleasures are like pojjpies sjiread, You seize the flower, its bloom is shed; Or hke the snow fall in the idver, A moment white — then melts forever; Or hke the borealis race. That flit ere you can point their place; Or hke the rainbow's lovely fonn Evanishing amid the storm." — Burns. 1 HE first serious land jumping in the " France Settlement " was that of a man who jumped a claim belonging to Miss B — , 1878. In moving on to it, the jumper left a wagon tire, leaning against some other traps, on an elevation above the house ; the tire got started, and bounding into the door crushed a hole into the head of a two or three year old child, playing by its mother's side. Yet, it lingered until a doctor arrived and sewed up the scalp, the brain oozing out meanwhile. Oh, what a piteous sight ! The doctor prided himself on being above all other doctors " the poor man's friend," and therefore charged only $150 for his trip of 30 miles and " surgical operation." Thus was our graveyard started. Then the jumper was driven from the place, though he was technically right. About this time there was also an attempt at claim jump- ing near Dayton. A man had filed on a claim and then, having sold it before proving up, erroneously thought he could there- fore legally file the same right on another claim. After he had lived on and improved this other claim, a man doing business in town filed a contest at the land office and was about to win 224 Defending my Life and Home. the place by law. So many of the neighbors turned out, destroyed with fire the lumber he had put on the place for a house, and, armed with shot guns and pistols, went hunting for him in a body to the county seat, where they challenged the jumper out of his house of business and shot him down in the street, and, after he was down, amid shouts of " hurrah for Whetstone Hollow ! " There was not even an arrest made, nor any indictment found, as the jumper was not a member of the gang. One of the shooters rested his pistol on his arm and, as he smoked his pipe, blazed away at the lone man. This shooter was then elected a county commissioner. These sample cases prove that the sentiment and judge- ment of the people were dead against land jumpers, even when they were technically right. And that the courts stood in against them, when they did not belong to the gang. Indeed, the homebuilders were having such a hard time of it, that one could not be convicted of any crime for killing a man who was trying to rob him of his home or any part of it — even if the jumper was technically right — unless the homebuilder was be- trayed, sold, or given away by his lawyers, and the jury packed against him. Were it otherwise, the laws and courts would be worked so, as to rob every homebuilder of his home ; for there is always a technicality, a clerical " error," or something hidden to be dug up, and sustained by the court, ivhen the mystic sign is given. Condensed from the Press. — "The land sharks are jubilant over [a -sdctory] as it is tlie commencement of the harvest they expect to gather. But the settlers on the lands are organized, and any of their creatures whom they will incite to locate, will be met with a long rope and a short shift. The Statesman AviU side with the farmers against both the raih-oad and the land jumi^ers." "That the ring of land sharks exists in this city [Walla Walla] and have no earthly way of making a hving, except by blackmaihng settlers on the pubhc lands, by reason of their knowledge of the land laws and their access to the records of the land office, is an undoubted fact. By black- mailing the settlers and bulldozing the laud officers they keep everybody in a state of ten-or. We know, for a fact, of contests being inaugurated for no other ijurjiose than forcing the original locator to buy the gang off." "Mr. Arthurs is a native of Tennessee, and is a true and consistent democrat, and it would not be safe for any man to attempt to locate on his Shanghaied to the Gang's Bastile. 225 domain, even if it be forfeited, for lie is one of the many who have sworn, that no jumper will ever attempt a similar game a second time." "Indeed, in all new and sparsely settled sections of this great repub- lic the law is interj^reted to suit the sentiment of the community. If a man jumps a piece of land, held rightfully by a neighbor, he knows that he is loolcing directly into the miizzle of a loaded Winchester, which is hable to go off any moment. It all depends on the nerve of the injured party. If the gun does go off, the coroner and his neighbors gather together, talk the matter over, and render a verdict of justifiable homicide. This is why M — , who shot and killed young L — last week, is a free and much respected citizen to-day." It is popular also, to shoot down harmless petty thieves, even in town, when they don't belong to the gang. "C — , in whose back P — poured a dose of shot, is still ahve in the city jail. Some of the shot lodged in the lungs, and the spine must cer- tainly be injured. There is httle, if any, sympathy expressed for the wretch, and his death would not increase it. It is well kno\vn that in nearly every house in the city fire-arms are kept expressly for burglars, and it is only because peoj^le do not wake up quick enough, that more house breakers are not shot." Afterwards. — "C — , the burglar, who was so prettily pepjiered by P- a few weeks since, was yesterday sentenced to nine years in the peniten- tiary." A homebuilder knows at the outset enough to calculate on opposition from home-wreckers ; he also knows that the chief fundamental principle and object of good government is not to rob and murder him, but to encourage, uphold, protect, defend and venerate the true homebuilder ; and that this is vouch- safed and vowed by all civilized governments on the earth. And he who violates this solemn vow is a traitor and a thief. Here is a sentiment, that is proudly proclaimed. " The poorest man may in his own cottage home bid defiance to all the force of the crown. It may be frail, its roof may shake, the wind may blow through it, the storms may enter, the rain may enter, — but the King of England cannot enter ! All his forces dare not cross the threshold ! ! " In the spring of 1878, Mr. E — and other charitable breth- ren located a steam saw-mill a mile from my place, knowing there would be no accessible water for their use during the most of the year, except it be at my place. Digging for water had proved a failure thereabouts, and the settlers were watering 15 226 Defending my Liee and Home. their stock at and liauling water from my place for domestic use. This demand with my various herds of stock and others that were transient, was about equal to the supply of my springs. Mr. E — was fully informed as to this matter before he located the mill, but turned a deaf ear; evidently ha^ang conspired at the outset to intrigue, tramp or shoot me down, and jump my place. The fact that I had earned this part of my home by hard and persistent toil, had paid for it, and had an undisputed U. S. Patent for the same, was spurned with charitable (?) con- tempt, as having such influence at court as would shield them in murdering justice, law, and the most sacred rights and cherished feelings of man. Mr. E — never even asked me to grant him or them any privilege, whatsoever. However, when the water at the mill had failed, a neighbor said to me that he could make some money in supplying the mill with water, if I would permit him to haul it from my place; that he would tap the stream some distance below the main head springs and the fence that enclosed them, run it into a box, placed over the stream, so as not to interfere with its other uses, and be subject to my desires as to the same. I agreed to this, he did as he agreed, and we never disagreed. In May, also in 1878, 1 suffered a man to put up a cabin on a corner of the school-land-tract that I had leased, as before shown, under the pretext and promise of stopping but a short timej when the water there would fail, and he would locate and move his cabin on to some vacant land. He repeatedly declar- ed that I had befriended him, when in need, as none other would do, and that '"he surely would never make me any trouble," etc. Afterwards, however, he said that he was advised by a ("charitable") lawyer, that the law by which such lands were leased, was invalid, so that he could ignore it, and was en- couraged by other brethren to stick to this land. But he could never show wherein this, if true, would give Mm any legal or moral right to the same. For, although it was surveyed land, he could not file on it at the land office, which Shanghaied to the Gang's Bastile. 227 office acquiesced in the leasing of it. He could not even file a contest there. Mr. Jutflper was a frequent visitor at the saw-mill. He was an old hand at the jumping business, and had been run out of two or more places for trying to kill men for their claims, so it was said, and was regarded as a hard and desperate citizen. He threatened my life and property continually and in all manner of ways, both to me and to others, so that it Avas notorious. Boasted of his influence and backing, and openly swore that he "was like Macbeth,— Damned be he who first cries hold, enough ! " Once, while I was working on the land, he brought his gun out to kill or drive me off. There were others present, so he left his carbine midway and came up, with brag and bluster, to me, to whip me. He also had a big dagger on him. But when I shoved my hand in my pocket, with neither brag or bluster, he suddenly stepped back, left, and afterwards swore that "but for one thing he would have shot all of us dead." I kept right on my even course, as I had been doing all those years. Had there been any law that would reach the gentleman, he would have been taken care of years before. But he was a man of linked, secret influence and backing. I had seen in my school books pictures portraying the pioneer of a century ago, performing his homage with a musket slung to his back, to protect him against lurking savages, armed with bows and tomahawks and crowned with feathers ; but here I was -like many others, and after a hundred Fourth-of-July orations and solemn vows — performing my homage in like manner against a more dangerous, lurking and linked foe, arm- ed with improved rifles and gin, and crowned with the flag of my country. When Mr. Jumper had thus got better acquainted with me —that he could not drive me to his terms, and also found he could make no crack or pretext wherein his lawyer gang and court could enter a wedge of plunder, we got sociable when we met, talked the matter over in a friendly way, at various times, and he gave up the job— and started in to jump another claim. Said he " did not want to farm any, as that did not pay the 228 Defending my Life and Home. farmer," but had claimed my place as a " business venture," etc., would not trouble me any more, and would leave the place. Meanwhile, he was hauling water from my spring. His object was to drive me to buy him off, or kill me, if he found that to be practicable, or his backers give the sign. And other brethren standing ready to take his place, and be bouo-ht off in turn if that plan proved successful. The man to whom I had given the privilei^e to haul water for the saw-mill, quit it after a month or two ; others continued it for a time without any consent or objection from me, till the grand worthy master of the saw-mill (whom I had seen parad- ing the Bible through the streets with his gang) came over with his force of men and hell, and stealthily put up a big tank some distance above the other and away from the stream, on ashy ground that would take in the leakage and overflow, run pipes from it through my fence to the springs ; took all the water into his tank, and posted a notice forbidding " all persons from taking any water as it belonged to him." The thief had jumped the place ! sneering and jeering at suggestions of his own force that he respect my rights. And, presto ! my other jumper springs up and renews his claim and threats to me, and to others ; declared it to be " an outrage for one man to own all the land in the country and the water too," tore down my fences, etc., swore he would now settle me with an ounce of lead, etc., etc., boasted that " they would make it as hot as hell for me now," that " he had taken my school land. E — had taken my pre-emption, and by G— d! we will soon have a man on your homestead ! " And was more hostile than ever before. A man who had condemned and opposed the gentleman, and volunteered to loan me his gun to defend my life against him, had since been made to understand that he was a secret sworn brother as was also the worthy grand master, so he now urged him on and promised him assistance against me. Said he " was hound to assist him." " Only the actions of the just, Smell sweet, and blossom in the dust." I courteously protested to the worthy grand master against 1 Shanghaied to the Gang's Bastile. 229 depriving me, as well as others, of " even w^ater for domestic use ! " and this, too, without ever asking me for any, to which he replied with grinning contempt, " If 3'ou want any water dig for it! " forbid me interfering with his grasp on it, or stand in his way, or " he would whip me, would fix me by helping the other jumper to get away with my school land," that " the place was not mine, and he would prosecute me in the courts of justice (?) for $40 or $50 a day for every day the mill was idle," etc., etc. After the water had been shut off from the people long enough for them to feel it well, and the jumping of it had be- come notorious, in spite of the lying, thieving gang to blind the facts, and I had examined my patent and the numbers closely, to see whether I really did own the place against such a bold, brazen and boisterous claim of the worthy grand master, then I tore the water pipes up, re-possessed and held my own against the gang of lying thieves, till they were re-enforced by the Government they prostitute to murder and ravage, against which "all wisdom, all virtue, all courage, are vain." " But trutli shall conquer at the last, For round and round we run, And ever the right comes uppermost, And ever is justice done. " The worthy grand master graded an expensive road to a spring in a deep ravine, moved his water tank from my place to it when it went dry, as he had been informed it would be- fore he located his mill. He then made another road to the deeply embedded Pataha creek ; this not being very practicable either, he got a secret ring brother interested to go to buy the same water privilege I had freely given my neighbor at the outset, and which he him- self had, till he jumped the whole stream and violated every principle of truth, justice and decency towards his benefactor. Indeed, I refused an offer of $150 for but four months use of the same water privilege I accorded him without charge. There was a good vacant stock range on the school section, and back of it in the mountain, but it was quite destitute of accessible water. It was to utilize this range that an owner of a large 230 Defending my Life and Home. lierd offered me $150 that I refused, to simply accommodate the charitable mason. August 22, 1878, 1 started from the house with a load of wheat to sow my breaking on the school land part of my now envied home, accompanied by two mounted men to assist me (of late years I had sown all my grain on horseback). Others were afraid to go with me as they might get hit when I was being " shot out of the field," as Jumper had sworn he would do, if I undertook to sow the ground (but a peace officer had declined to interfere, advising me to " be prepared to defend myself against him, and thus work the land.") But these two men were on friendly terms with Jumper, and there- fore not considered in danger, though there was something said in jest about " drinking gunpowder " as we started. We had proceeded but a few rods when we met the " secret ring brother from the saw-mill ;" stated his business, when I invited him to go along up to the field and we would talk about the water matter on the way. We stopped at one end of the breaking opposite Jumper's cabin when I handed my two men each a one-half sack of wheat on their horses, and they struck out to sow and soon separated. I was mounting with a sack myself — having just made the ring brother mad by refusing his request for water— when he exclaimed, " There comes [Jumper] now with a gun.'' Sure enough, he was coming as a desperado with his cocked carbine in both hands to take the place, and was about to meet one of my men. I said, " Come let us go out and see what he is going to do ivith it." " I don't care a damn ivhat he does loith it ! " was the reply. I struck out and joined the man at his work, (and a man, loho tvas living ivith Jumper and had followed him out of the house, passed hy us and joined the secret ring brother at my ivagon.) Jumper, with his cocked carbine in both hands and finger on the trigger, closely followed us around, rolling out a tirade of boisterous, bullying profanity and threats, fired with gin, trying to drive us out of the field, I having nothing but my cocked pistol in hand for defense ; whenever he would bring the muzzle of his gun at me, I was always a little ahead with my pistol at him, he wanted a close dead shot, and tried several Shanghaied to the Gang's Bastile. 231 times to get it; once he aimed at my companion, when he threw up his arms and brushed down his sides, saying, "Don't point 30ur gun at me, you see I am not armed ! " and exhorted him to " quit now, that he hiew I would die rather than be driven out of my own," and after thus following us around, he did quit, evidently having given up the job. But he went and had a lengthy conference with the secret brother and other friend at my wagon. (I had less dread of dying in such a cause than desire to live by its sacrifice, and when my time comes let it be in such a fight.) My companion not being used to sow grain in this way, I continued to ride close with him to teach him, when Jumper, from the ever after secret conference luith the ring brother, came tearing and boiling with venom — hunting my life ! telling my other hand on the way to " leave the field as a friend, for there is going to be trouble." (My companion says, " look out for him now ! " I thought I could throw myself on the side of my horse for protection as readily as I often picked my hat from the ground.) Coming on with blood-shot eyes, and with the most horrid, wicked, flam- ing look ever seen in the visage of man, overtakes, heads us off, belches out at the end of a stream of profanity, "turn back! leave thefield ! and dont come back nartj time ! I ivillfix you ! and then I ivill kill you ! '' as he blazed away — twice, I returning the fire in rapid succession. My first and his second shot were fired together, thus making a louder report than any other. My horse flaring and me dodging kept me from shooting at the first shot, and as my companion also dropped down on his saddle, I, as well as Jumper, thought he was hit — though, of course, shooting at me ; quickly re-loading with the lever, and stepping up closer and more to the side, so as to aim be- hind my companion at me, he quickly fired again, saying, "7 will kill you ! " but at the same instant my companion, reaching back, struck down the muzzle, so the charge crashed into the rump of his horse — ranging downward and diagonally toward me, I emptying my pistol into him in about five seconds. My four bullets ranging downward, thus stopping him from emptying his filled magazine into me, though he still had strength enough for a terrific, sanguinary struggle— that 232 Defending iviy Life and Home. followed my sliots — for control of the gun. My companion having gripped it as he struck it down. Jumper thus jerked him off his sinking horse, clubbed him against the head with the gun breech, and dragged him forty feet over the ground, so that it took another man to control it, just as he had got it re- loaded and cocked again. Then Jumper went to his house, boasted that " he had shot my companion as ivell as me" and in 12 hours died, but neither of us was shot. The *' secret ring brother " and companion run away (from the wagon) at the onset of the fight, reporting that I was shot. A neighbor at a distance on hearing the carbine shots exclaimed, " there ! France is shot ! " The foregoing is not only a true account of the fight, etc., and prelude to it, but the facts as stated were so transparent, evident, consistent loithal, and susceptible oi positive, certain proof, that it should carry conviction to every mind, for there was no hinge or loop to hang an honest doubt upon, and any one swearing to the contrary, or diversely, would gain no intelli- gent, honest belief, would be a self-contacted, perjured liar, and, if given justice, would be punished accordingly. No one but a thief ever has or will dispute this — such as are liars and thieves of the first magnitude. Inventions of the enemy : " Where logic is inverted and wrong is called right." " Where honor is lost and valor fled, And all her virtues numbered with the dead ! ' I neglected to swear out a complaint against the secret ring brother & Co., (who will be known in my epitome, Chap- ter XVIII, as the " Distant and officious witness ") wheu, presto ! he swore out one against me, charging me with murder I And his companion at the wagon was suppressed, and then spirited away, for he wanted to tell the truth. And other secret brethren — including some who were on friendly and sociable terms with me just before (though not all such) — now whipped into line, snapped and snarled, conspired, in- trigued, and wickedly lied and swore to stab me down, to wring and suck my heart's blood in revenge for their Daniie, and to f233) 234 Defending my Life and Home. praise and venerate their dead brother-assassin, home ravager, and ravislier ! ' ' And if by this meaus we further our cause The private assassin desei-ves our ajjplause." The day before the fight, Mrs. E repelled the charita- ble and to be venerated Danite brother from her bed and house with a pistol, while struggling to ravish her ! And the very day of our fight her husband started out with a gun to kill this to be sanctified saint, for his brutal attempt. " With the cloak of the Bible their j^rostitution to veil, The Devil's a saint till he shows us his tail." Certainly, none of them ever swore or said anything against me but what could be shattered by its own rottenness alone, as well as by their slimy characters. Certainly, there was no man or woman, that was not a thief at heart, that did not rejoice that the to be sanctified saint of these Mormons was dead. His own brother-in-law said, that "he ought to have been killed years before for his crimes ! " But what could 7 do ? What could anybody do ? When thrown into prison without any hearing ; forced to employ and trust black-leg shysters, who are secret sworn brethren to the enemy, stand in to keep you in prison for witnesses to be falsely held, tortured, tampered with and spirited away, and a jury selected by secret brethren ; and you are stabbed and bled at every pore, and your ruin fixed ! Practises every kind of deception, treason and cruelty known to the villainous, slimy trade, destroys correct and indisjDutable diagrams of the scenes of strife, and rejects the measurement of the ground at the last minute ! Assured by them that you have " done nothing,'' and will be freed with a trial, and you fear no danger, for you know no guilt. Bid can never get any trial, or freedom, or even a hearing. " That keep the words of promise to our ear, and break it to our hope. Told me such things — oh ! with such devilish art." That squelches alike the bad character of the secret brother, and that of your own that was good from childhood. Also sixty per cent of your witnesses and sixty per cent, of valuable i Shanghaied to the Gang's Bastile. 235 facts kuowu to the remainder, and endeavors to squelch your oion evidence entirely as " unnecessary." And when a court and executive are but servile tools of such a hideous, grimly, slimj^ midnight Mormon gang, who recognizes no such thing as right or wrong, heart or conscience, justice or humanity ! " Is this tlien," thought the youth, " is this the way To free man's spirit from the deadeuing sway Of Avorhlly sloth — to teach him Avhile he hves, To know no bhss but that which ^•il•tue gives ? " " Oh, that a dream so sweet so long enjoy 'd, Should be so sadly, cruelly destroy'd ! • His faith was bai'tered and the crime was done." — Moore. How Tkials of the Brethren are Managed, etc. B 's trial for shooting an unarmed man (S ) doiV7i in the street. " Evidence was introduced to show that S was quarrelsome, and had been involved in several rows elsewhere." [Such evidence was squelched in my case.] Another sample case. — "One hundred and thirty-six ques- tions of fact were propounded to the jury, and which they struggled with until they aifiswered them, [No questions were asked the jury in my case, nor did any of the jury ask any questions.'] " The argument of counsel occu- pied about eighteen hours, one of the counsel occupied nearly half that time in opening the argument." [In my case my counsel (?) talked about fifteen minutes, but my case was never opened, presented, plead, or argued at all.] "Virtue distressed " could get uo protection here. "And shall no curso for perjury be paid? No vengeance \-iudjcate the friend betrayed?" Another sample case. — " The jury returned to ask ' If a man had a deadly weapon in his hand, and another thought he was about to use it against him, and shot the former : Would it be manslaughter or murder ? ' The Judge replied that it would be neither." "But say, vain trifler, must thy years be told, "What bliss is centred in another's gold? Let angry Heaven dart Its forked Hghtning through your guilty heart." 236 Defending my Life and Home. In another case the Chief Justice of Washington Territory charged the jury as follows : " The law is, that if a person, or his family, or his friends, are assailed or approached in such a Avay and under sucli cir- cumstances as to induce in him a reasonable belief that he or they are in imminent danger of unlawfully loosing life or suf- fering great bodily harm, or being driven from his dwelling, or that his dwelling is in imminent danger of being unlawfully entered or destroyed, or seriously injured, he will be justified or excused in defending himself, or his family, or his friends, or his dwelling, as the case may be, although as a matter of fact he be mistaken as to the actual extent of the danger, or the danger be not real, but only apparent. Of course, it makes no difference under this law whether the dwelling endangered or in question is a Chinese tent or a white man's building. Tou are instructed that evidence of good character is compe- tent in favor of a party accused, as tending to show that he would not be likely to commit the crime alleged against him, and in doubtful cases, e^ddence of previous good character is entitled to great weight in favor of innocence. And if, from the evidence, you find that any facf necessary to establish the defendant's guilt of any grade of crime is in doubt, then, if the prisoner has, by evidence, satisfied you that he was up to the time the offense is alleged to have been committed, a man of good character, the presumption of law is that the supposed crime is so inconsistent with the former life and character of the defendant that he could not have intended to do the crim- inal act, and it would be your duty to give the defendant your benefit of the presumption, and acquit him. All killing of man- kind is unlawful except such as happens from mere accident or mistake, or is done in obedience to public duty, or in lawful defense of person, habitation, or property." ' Of the wealtli of mankind they all seize a sliare, And riot alike in the spoils of the fair." Sec. 778 of the Territorial Code says, "That all persons accused of crime in any court of this territory, whether by indictment or other^wise, shall be admitted to bail by the court, where the same is pending, or by a judge m vacation, when it shall ajjpear to the court or jtidge, that the ac- cused has offered to go to trial in good faith, and without collusion Avith Shanghaied to the Gang's Bastile. 237 witnesses, and has been denied a trial by the court and the bail bond in snch cases shall be reasonable and at the sound discretion of the court. Yet I was held to languish in jail nearly ten months, always begging for a trial or hearing, and was less prepared every day it was delayed. And the Judge oflfered to grant it forthwith, and yet I coiild never get any hearing or trial, for when the thing did at last come off it was fixed and managed so that it was a traitorous j oh, and not a trial at all. Nor could I get rid of the shysters, when I found them out, or attend to my case my- self, as I tried so hard to do. Any one, who denies any of this, is a liar, a thief and a cur ! " Man, false man, smiling, destructive man ! " " Distinction neat and nice which lie between The poisoned chalice and the stab unseen." " Oh, 'twas too much — too dreadful to endure /" A sample of a Judge's charge in behalf of a mason, even when the public sentiment was so bitter against him that a guard had to be stationed at the jail to keep him from being lynched in daylight, till sent out of the County. The officials who se- lected the jury being secret sworn brethren, of course, he was to be acquitted anyway. However, the Court said, as is usual for the brethren : "In order to convict him of the crime alleged in the indictment or of any lesser crime included in it, every material fact necessary to constitute such crime, must be proved beyond all reasonable doubt, as defined in these instructions. "And if you entertain any such reasonable doubt upon any single fact or element necessary to constitute the crime, then the piisoner is entitled to the benefit of such doubt, and it is your sworn duty to find a verdict of acquittal. "The defendant is entitled to every presumption of innocence com- patible with the e^^dence in the case, and if it is i)ossible to account for the killing of the deceased ui)on any other reasonable hypothesis than that of the gtult of the defendant, it is your duty to acquit him. ' ' There is CA-idence in this case tending to show, that the killing was in self-defense by the defendant, and was an excusable or justifiable homi- cide. I therefore instruct you ui)on the doctrine of self-defense and justi- fiable homicide, as follows: 238 Defending my Life and Home. "Where an assaiilt, threatening instant and gi-eat bodily harm is made upon one in a place where he has a right to be, he is not obhged to retreat, but may stand his ground and use all force reasonably necessary to repel the assault and reUeve himself from the danger. S — , if so assaUed, is excus- able, if he acted according to the circumstances as they api3eared to him. [The other man was not armed.] And, if he, acting honestly upon such appearance, did no more than it was reasonable for him to beheve necessary for his defense, he is excusable for all consequences of his acts. ' ' Or, if S — , from the circumstances as they appeared to him at the time of shooting, had good reason to beheve, and did beheve, that D — was about to assault him, and if, under such appearances, it was a reasonable measure to adojjt, to prevent a collision, to exhibit the pistol, and the pis- tol was accordingly exhibited, not with intent to assault D — but as an honest act of precaution, to insure his own safety by intimidating D — , or by ha^dng it ready in case of an assault upon himself, and thereu^jon D — assaulted S — with such violence as reasonably to induce S — to beheve himself in danger of his hfe or great bodily harm, and S — , so beheAing, shot D — , then S — is excusable and should be acquitted of every grade of crime. S — , acting excusably upon circumstances as they apjjeared to him, would not be less excusable if it afterwards turned out, or not appears to you, that the appearances were deceitful and that he was actiially mistaken as to the reahty, extent or character of the danger. "It is also your province and your duty to take into consideration the general character of the deceased, as a \'iolent, quarrelsome and bad man, at and immediately before the time of the homicide, so far as the same is Bho^\'n by the evidence offered in the case, if you beheve the same is shown by the evidence to have been known to the defendant, at the time of the killing. "So also, any threats made by the deceased against the prisoner im- mediately before the homicide, that were known to the prisoner at the time of the occuiTence, should be considered by you when discussing and pass- ing upon the nght of the prisoner to act upon appearances. " Another Judge in another case "advised the jury that the accused shoukl receive the benefit of his record and good character previously." Self-Defense. When and how a man can slay another and have the law on his side. A well-known judge said to a reporter one day recently : "It woud be interesting to show what constitutes the right of self-defense as laid down in the law books. The right of self-defense is founded on the law of nature, and is not superseded by the laws of society. It is a right which every one brings into society, and retains in society, excejat so far as the laws of society have cuilailed it. Every man has a right to defend himself against Shanghaied to the Gang's Bastile. 239 an attack tlireatening liim with death or serious bodily harm, and his inno- cence "will be presumed until his guilt is established beyond a reasonable doubt. The right is based on necessity, and arises where one manifestly intends and endeavors, by ^^iolence or surjjrise, to commit a known felony on the person, habitation or property of another. It is a defense against a present unlawful attack; as where an assault is made with a deadly weapon, or where one is assaulted in his habitation, or where a forcible felony is at- tem^jted. The law of self-defense does not require one, whose life has been threatened, to seek the protection of the law; nor is he obhged first to call on the authorities. The omission to seek protection from the authoiities does not deprive him of the jirotection of the law, or of his rights of self- defense. "The right of self-defense is not limited to the actual danger threaten- ed. The danger of death or great bodily harm must be either real, or be honestly beHeved at the time, to be imminent and on sufficient gTounds. A reasonable apprehension of danger is sufficient; and a reasonable ground for belief that there is a design to destroy life, to rob, or commit a felony ; a reasonable and well-grounded beHef , a behef arising from appearances that the danger is actiial and imminent. Guilt must depend on the circum- stances as they appeared to him. Apparent danger is a mixed question of law and fact. A man is justified in acting for his defense according to the circumstances as they appear to him. "The law of self-defense does not require one whose Hfe has been threatened to leave his house or to secrete himself to avoid his foe. When a ijerson without fault — in a place where he has a right to be — ^is A-iolently assailed, he may, without retreating, rejjel force by force, in the reasonable exercise of his right of self-defense. He is not obhged to retreat or go to tJie waU from an assailant anned with a deadly weaj^on, and if he is driven to the wall so that he must be kiUed or sustain great bodily harm, and, therefore, kills his assailant it is excusable homicide. He is not obhged to retreat, but may pursue until he is out of danger, and may Icill to get out of danger; but when the attack is not felonious the rule of law is different. "A man is not required to do everything in his power to avoid the necessity of slaying his assailant. "Where there is no escape, after retreat- ing as far as possible, killing avlU be justifiable, so where retreat is im- possible or perilous, or would increase the danger, or where further retreat is jsrevented by some imi^ediment, or was as far as the fierceness of the assault permitted. But if the assaulted party is in fault, he is bound to retreat as far as he can safely do so; he is required to decline the combat in good faith, and if he uses all the means in his power to escajse, even killing in self-defense is lawful. But if a man socks to bring on a difficulty and slays his adversary he can not avail himself of the plea of self-defense. That a party has been struck gives him no right to retahate by an assault. "An act done from necessity raises no ijresumption of a criminal in- tent; biit the necessity must be actual, imminent, and apparent, with no 240 Defending my Life and Home. other probable or possible means of escape. It must be great, and must arise from immineut peril to life or limb. Men, ■\vhen threatened with danger, must determine the necessity of resorting to self-defense, and they •will not be held responsible for a mistake in the extent of the actual danger, nor be subject to the peril of making that guilty, if appearances prove false, "which would be innocent if they proved true. There must be at least an apparent necessity, an actual necessity, or a reasonable behef of such necessity, to ward off some impending harm. Necessity is a defense when the act charged was done to avoid irreparable evil, from which there was no other adequate means of escape, and the remedy was not disproijoi-tion- ate to the threathened evil; and the necessity must not have been created by the fault of him who pleads it, nor be occasioned by him, nor be the result of his own culijability, nor be rashly rushed into; and in cases of assault or intrusion by strangers no more force than is necessary must be used in repelhng the assault. "The light of self-defense does not include the right of retribution. A party assaulted is justified in using such force as is necessary to rejjel an assailant, but no more, and if unnecessary force is used he becomes the assailant. The degree of force must not exceed the bounds of defense and prevention, and this depends on the circumstances of each case, and the condition of both parties may be considered. A party in i^ossession of property may use force suflficient to protect it. "^Miether a man is justified in employing in the first instance such means of resistance as will produce death, depends on the circumstances and the nature of the attack, and he may not always use a deadly weapon, and it is still further wrong if it is a concealed weaijon. But if the taking of life is necessary it will be excus- able. It is always excusable when in defense of life, yet it requii-es a great disjiarity of size and strength and a very violent attack to excuse the taking of hf e. A party may use Avhatever force is necessaiy to avert the apparent danger, although it may afterw'ard ajspear that the gun was not loaded, and that there was no real danger." — Louisville Commercial. " He jests at scars, tliat never felt a wound." " And now one cannot but complain here of fortune as still envious of virtue, and hindering the performance of glori- ous achievements ; this was the case of the man before us, when he had just attained his purpose, for he then stumbled at a certain large stone and fell innocently into the hands and power of felons, robbers, perjurers, and thieves." — History. Sec. 956 of the Washington Tei-ritory Code says : "No distinction shall exist between an accessory before the fact and a principal, or between principals in the first and second degree and all persons concerned in the commission of an offense, whether they directly counsel the act constitut- ing the offense, or counsel, aid and abet in its commission, though not present, shall hereafter be indicted, tried and punished as principals." Shanghaied to the Gangs Bastile. 241 Tet none of those who " counseled, aided and abetted " my conduct were found guilty of any crime, not even the justice of the peace, under whose direct advice (the day before) I acted to the letter. And he offered to and did loan me the very seed for the very same stated purpose I teas solving at the fight, (as I would not thresh till late in the fall) and he knew every phase of the case. But after the fight confessed (like the brother that loaned me his pistol) that he " icould have to do jud as the \hlack-leg leader of the linked mob] said." As hard as I tried, I could not get even this witness sub- poenaed to testify at — what was called — my trial (?). And I " must not tell of any of these villainies or die," mvst I? You damned, cowardly midnight assassins, traitors and thieves. Nor were any of those who " counseled, aided and abetted " their Danite Jumper molested at all. Sec. 9-58 of the Code says: "Eveiy person who shall become an ac- cessory after the fact to any felony may be indicted, conAicted and punish- ed, whether the piinciiml felon shall or shall not have been con\dcted pre- A-iously, or shall or shall not be amendable to jiistice by any court having jurisdiction to tr\' the princijjal felon and either in the county where such l^erson shall become an accessoiy, or in the county where such (principal) feloney shall have been committed." Yet none of the sworn, slimy gang have been molested to this day. "Oh ! 'tis not, Hinda, in the jDOwer Of fancy's most terrific touch To j)aint thy pangs in that dread hour — Thy silent agony — -'twas such As those who feel could jmint too weU, But none e'er felt and lived to tell ! " — Moore. Sec. 1070 of Code !irni'. blrayed" "And thoiigli his Ufe Las jJassM away, Like hghtning on a stormy day. Yet shall his death-hour leave a track Of gloiy, permanent and bright, To -which the brave of after-times, The snffeiing brave, shall long look back With proiid regret — and by its hght Watch through the hours of slavery's night For vengeance on the oppressor's crimes! " — Moore. " He lias retired, it is true, but liis ambition, though seem- ingly smothered, still burns within, and his principles are un- altered." CHAPTER XVI. A pilgrimage thi'ough liell ! — Seven years' experience in the Seatco contract bastile. — The kind of a hell and s'windle this was. — How I was taken there. — A three or four days journey by wagon, boat and rail. — Hoav I was judged by jjeople on the road. — Sympathy. — "Either innocent of Clime, or a very bad man. " — The set questions asked by those who had suffered likewise. — Descrii^tion of the bastile. — How I was im- l^ressed. — The kind of people I foimd the jirisoners to be. — And the officials. — HoAV they were employed. — "What they had done and what they had not done. — Their complaints, etc. — Jumijing away. — The crooked and rocky road to liberty. — ^Who got there and how. — The inquisition of the mind. — How prisoners are driven to the frenzy of des- pau' and death. — What they earned and were worth to the gang. — What it cost the peojDle. — ^What they got to eat and wear. — How they w^ere treated when well and when sick. — The punishments. — How I was en- gaged while in the midst of flaming desolation. — Crazy prisoners. — The good and bad quahties and conduct of the officials. — The redeem- ing feature of the institution. — The different nationahties and occui^a- tions rej)resented and their experiences. — One of the Polaris' crew ; six months on an ice-floe. — The good, bad and mixed. — The innocent, guilty, and the victims of circumstances, whiskey and accidents. — In- equahty of sentences and treatment. — Bobbing the cradle and the grave for seventy cents a day. — How the jDrisoners Hved and died. — The cen- sorship on coiTespondence, and the real object of the same. — A secret prison. — Shanghaied prisoners try to make theh' cases known to the pubhc. — How the Governor stood inmth the gang. — Letters smuggled by ministers, members of the Legislature, humane guards, etc. — Squelching letters of %ital imi:)oi'tance. — "Damn you, you can't prove it!" — Like abuses in the Insane asylum. — The remedy. — A plea that any prisoner shall at least be accorded a public hearing and let /7?e People judge. — The worst criminals not in jorison but in office. — Their victims crushed. — ^A j)et prisoner turaed in with a bottle of whiskey and a pistol in his pockets. — The visiting preachers. — What they thought of the prisoners and of the officials. — One that Avas a thorough-bred and would fight the devil in any giiise. — What he did for refonn, and how he was bounced. — Can write to him yourself . — Cruel deception. ^False and cheating hojjes. — "There is France ! If he had not been so anxious about getting home, he would have been out long ago." — "Must keep stUl and not bore anybody." — Hoio the still and meek languished and died! — How other prisoners were shanghaied. — "Bad conduct." — My conduct." — Strikes, etc. — How officials are interested against a pnson- ers justice. — How "heaven is sometimes just and pays us back in measures that we meto."^ — How prisoners are robbed. — Women prison- ers, and how they were treated. — Visits of the Legislature, etc. — A (246) How TO KuN A Keform Prison. 217 prisoner makes a gi-eat speech and Lis teeth are pulled out for the trouble it makes the officials. — What the Legislature said, and what they did. — The pardoning i:)OAver and how it was exercised. — The lie, that "to hear prisoners talk they are all innocent." — Reading matter, etc. — How to control i)risoners. — How they get revenge. — How prison- ers should be treated. — 'WTiere they should be kept. — How a j^rison should be conducted to be self-suppoi-tiug and to reform those Avho need reforming. — How to enforce the sacred right of j^etition, and the sober second thought of the people. i EREITOKIAL prisoners had been kept in the different county jails (where they should have reraained), but at the then last session of the legislature there was a proposition in the interest of the people, that the general Government sell to the territory for $36,000, on time, its prison situated on McNiels Island, Puget Sound. The prison cost the United States $50,000 and was worth with the ground over $100,000. But a gang of Free Masons wanted to get the prisoners by contract, and got a committee of their brethren appointed to examine the property and report it to be " unsafe for keeping prisoners." This was a brazen falsehood — it being as safe as perhaps any other prison in the United States, it being built of iron, stone and brick, and on the general j^lan of all United States prisons, and being on a small island. Moreover, no prisoner had ever broken out of the 2)yiso)i. Here the prison could be made self-supporting, and without any abuse of the prisoners, but as the legislature contained masons enough to control its proceedings it discarded the generous offer of the Government, and gave to the aforesaid brethren a contract for the keeping of all territorial prisoners for six (6) years, giving them seventy cents per day for each prisoner, and all their labor, besides paying for their transporta- tion to the prison. Others would keep the prisoners for much less pay, but they were ignored. The contractors built a prison of wood, 40x150 feet, two stories high, at a cost of about $4,000, in the woods on the N. P. railroad near a coal mine, in which they exj^ected to utilize their labor. They also run a cooper shop making fish barrels, and had a tract of land to clear, grub and cultivate, also a brick- 3'ard, and were to cut wood for the railroad and build short branches for the same. A large sash and door factory was also 248 A PrLGRBiAGE IN Hell. built and run with the prison labor - and all for the benefit of the gang. In two or three weeks after my sentence, one of these con- tractors (full of gin) came for me and another prisoner. I was taken out in the yard, double-ironed by a blacksmith, and we started by wagon for Walla Walla, where we would go by rail to the Columbia river, thence by boat to Portland and Kalama, thence by the N. P. railroad to the Seatco Bastile. I had often desired to travel over this route, but not as a desperado and in double irons. But this is the way I was driven from the country where I had worked so hard and pros- pered so well. I, however, expected that my stay at the prison would be brief, and I could then travel as I pleased. We were three or four days on the road, and the pas- sengers and others I met were very friendly, refusing to be- lieve I was such a bad man though I told them that twelve men had been found who had sworn it without asking a single question. One group decided after discussing the matter, that " he is either entirely innocent of crime, or else a very danger- ous man," but they were generally unable to understand how I could be convicted, having such a strong case of self-defense, and considered it a great outrage that "the Governor was sworn to correct." There were some, however, who had had like experiences with the courts, and simply asked me a few questions. " Was the man you killed or those backing him masons or odd-fellows ? " " Were they Avho selected the jury ? " " Was the Judge ? " " Were j-our lawyers? " And when I had answered " Yes ! " to each question, they understood the matter, and gave me their like experiences. And there were some who knew one of my attorneys in Oregon, which was enough for them ; said " he had conspired to murder a man for his money " — anyway he had got away with the murdered man's money. And we wondered whether the people would ever learn, with- out flaming experience, to discard their secret sworn enemies for office or trust. Arriving at the prison we were turned into a hall, 22x90 feet, up stairs ; the dining-room, kitchen, tailor and shoe shop, and the guards' quarters being on the same floor ; the cells being below and generally used only to sleep in. I ' ^ "1'.. . '. ^vj^ 250 A PiLGRrtfAGE IN Hell. I thought it hard usage to be ironed like a felon, having prided myself on my good and peaceable character, and know- ing that a jury's verdict did not change a fact ; but I thought this would end at the prison. I was, however, soon undeceived, for when the prisoners came in from work the sight and clatter of chains was deafening and damnable, nearly all being in heavy double irons, riveted to their legs, wearing them day and night, sick or well -all the time. Here were linls and rings that were true emblems of practical masonry, and solid, livid- proof of its cruel inhumanity to other men. " The laiinted citizen his death demands, Is thus cast into the tortiirer's hands." "Be not abashed, resign thv fear, Though weak and small thou art, 'Tn-as honest labor brought thee here, And freedom bids thee part." " Thus spoiled and degraded, lliey we7-e delivered over without pro- -tedion, they and their families, to the insults of hired banditti." " Consider the absolutely defenseless condition of the ac- cused, the whole power of the body politic is marshalled against the individual, it is the commonwealth against the citizen. A grand jury has declared his probable guilt uniJiout giving him a hearing ; an organized and secret tribunal [of masons] has furnished the trusted officers of the law [also masons] the names of the accusers, and the judicial power of the State has been brought into action to compel their pres- ence before the bar of Justice (?). If necessary the most talented and unscrupulous advocates in the land are summoned to aid the already seemingly invincible combination of power. In what painful contrast is the position of the prisoner, fre- quently suffering physically from confinement, and mentally from the terrible nature of the struggle for life and liberty in which he is engaged ; often with insufficient or treacherous thieving counsel, and ivithout the opportunity of searching out his own tvitnesses, or having others perform this necessary labor for him. The jury asks the question, " If this man is not guilty why is he here ? Why are all these officials paid by the State I How TO Kl N A Reform Pkison. 251 to convict liim ? " aud, when a secret sign is given, answers, " Of course he is f^uilty, or he would not be here." Thus the prisons contain so large a proportion of innocent men - a proportion increasing year hy year. The juror who is false to his duty is worse than any crim- inal he may condemn. He is false to his citizenship, false to his duty, false to his oath, false to his God. In violation of his oath he places upon his fellow-citizen, his fellow-man a brand of infamy which shall never be removed, he deprives him of that greatest of civil rights, liberty ! degrades him temporarily to servitude, and places him within the walls of a house of torture, whence he shall come forth to be followed by scorn, relentless and remorseless." " Go, crucify that slave. For what oflfense ? Who the accuser ? Where the e\'i(lence ? For when the hf e of man is in debate, No time can be too long, no care too great, — Hear all, weigh all with caution." An offense against the gang is committed, an outsider is arrested, the whole official system is put in motion to concoct evidence of his guilt, the wretched man is flung into prison and is kept there until his health is broken down, his hojDes of justice extinguished, and his means of defense extorted and wasted away, an accommodating judge aud jurors, who are tools of the gang, are selected by officials who are brother members of the same to try the case, and the whole secret gang — their press and all — are let loose with a significant sign of pillage aud revenge, arrogance and spleen. " And thou — curst man or friend, what'ere thou art, Who found'stthis burning plague-spot in my heart." " Disguise thyself as thou wilt, still slavery ! still thou art a bitter draught ; and though thousands in all ages have been made to drink of thee, thou art no less bitter on that account. I began to figure to myself the miseries of confinement. I was going to begin with the millions of ray fellow-creatures born to no inheritance but slavery, then I took a single captive, and having first shut him up in his dungeon, beheld his body half 252 A Pilgrimage in Hell. wasted away with long expectations and confinement, and felt what kind of sickness of heart it was which arises from hope deferred. Upon looking nearer I saw him pale and fever- ish ; in thirty years the western breeze had not once fanned his blood, nor had the voice of friend or kinsman breathed through his lattice of iron. His children — but here my heart began to bleed - and I was forced to go on with another part of the portrait. He lifted up a hopeless eye towards the door, than cast it down, shook his head, and went on with his work of affliction ; he gave a deep sigh — I saw the iron enter into his soul — I burst into tears." I found the prisoners at the Seatco prison to be about an average lot of men — not any more feloneous on the average than the same number found at a horse race, a dog fight, or picked up promiscuously most anywhere. One of the guards, being an old military and naval officer, frequently said that " the boys here would average well with those of the army or navy during the war," and a prisoner said, he " had left his coat hanging in the hall several months with several dollars in the pocket, and no one had stolen it yet." However, petty thieves or kleptomaniacs — as they are considered when they have in- fluence at court — afterwards came and were always with us. Many of the prisoners were guilty of the crimes charged against them, and freely confessed it ; but knowing of so many worse criminals who were acquitted with just as strong proof against them, and others who were not even molested, that they did not think they had got equal justice, and many of these in- tended, when released, to join one or more of the secret " charit- able " brotherhoods so that they too could commit crimes with impunity. " For, while they (the brethren) never omitted any sort of violence, nor any unjust sort of punishment against outsiders, as they were not to be moved by pity, and are never satisfied with any degree of gain, they were secret partners with the worst robbers. For a great many then fell into that practice without fear, as having their secret influence for their security, and depending on them that they would save them harmless in their particular robberies and other crimes, and would inflict punishment on their enemies on the smallest occasions, and esteem every man that endeavored to lead a How TO KuN A Reform Prison. 253 virtuous life their enemy, arid the knowledge of the possession of property or anything desirable to them, is the signal for attack." Many prisoners also complained of the inequality of sen- tences, considering the cases and characters of the men, many having the worst of these, and old offenders, too, getting the lightest sentences, while others having the best of cases and characters, and it being their first and only offense, and more accidental than intentional, would get five, ten and fourteen years. " Who blame, Avhere'er tbey go from pole to pole, And for one single blemish damn the whole." Other prisoners were innocent of any crime — they being simply plundered and thus put out of the way to keep them from " making trouble " or being in the way of their midnight robbers, they were also very profitable to the contractors — these are not convicts, they being hidriapped, not convicted, they are the victims of cruel, dastardly persecutions. ' ' But oh ! what sorrows rend the tender heart. With home ' sweet home ' that dearest, darHng child to part." "But hear our jjraver — the ruffian sword employ ; Drive us — but spare your efforts to decoy ; Spare to your \ictims those heart-rending throes, Which the poor, cheated self-destroyer knows ! The maddening thought that by your arts enticed, Our folly drained the bowl which you had spiced, And closed their suffering by an easy death. " I found that the prisoners were not ironed on account of bad conduct, but to save expense in guarding to the contract- ors and to gratify their personal love of cruelties by thus ag- gravating the prisoners' lot. And this aggravation caused many a man in the rage of despair to jump away — more than it ever held from it, and they jumped with nothing but bitterness iu their souls. "Still our bosoms ne'er at rest, Thirst for the blood that warms the traitor's breast Yet vengeance still sur\'ives, than life more dear, Taunts every groan and promjjts the exulting sneer. " 254: A Pilgrimage in Hell. I was told how peaceable men were kept ironed for weeks and mouths when even confined to their beds with sickness,- and how a dose was forced down one who forthwith died, etc., as mere examples of the kind of care and charity accorded the helpless sick in their gloom of black misfortune and helpless despair. And they knew whereof they spoke, and could abundantly Justify in details of facts. "There is an inquisition of the heart more cruel in its machinery than any ever invented for the body." I said that " I did not calculate to stay there but a short time, as I was innocent of any crime, having only defended my life and home ; and that I could show and prove this so plainly that none could honestly doubt it ; that I ivas not convicted but shanghaied ; that I was sold and Itetrayed and not defended ; that besides this showing I had some friends left who would get up a strong petition to the Governor for my restoration." But it was prophesied that I " would find it a narrow, crooked, miry, stumpy and rocky road to liberty, as others with good cases and many friends had failed to get there ; that the Governor was evidently secretly interested with the con- tractors and others, in holding on to men, because they could not get pardoned as was usual from other prisons, or even get the abatement of time for good conduct that was common else- where, and ahvays in the poiver and province of the Governor to bestoiv. Some also believed that the Judges were likewise interested against the prisoners' justice, as they, too, were willing that in- nocent men should suffer at seventy cents a day besides their labor. That these suspicions were reasonable, I also give this from the Press : " AiiBANY, N. Y., June 22, 1886, — Judge Nott auuoiiuced to-day iu the Albany County Court that he had been approached by Siiperintendent , of the Albany penitentiary, -with an ofler of §50, for each long term a prisoner was sent there. This attemj^t at bribery created a profound sensation." It is evident that this Judge and Superintendent did not belong to the same secret sworn brotherhood, or he would not have dared to expose the business. And at Seatco the prisoners I How TO KuN A Reform Prison. 255 were worth $300 or $400 each per year to the gang, and the press of the territory, being mostly in the control of the same brethren, was muzzled as to such outrages, except to deny their existence. The following day after my arrival I was taken out to the blacksmith-shop where the irons I had on were cut oflf, and a pair of heavier ones substituted, they being connected with a chain long enough to step ; reports were then sent out that " this was done because I was such a bad, desperate man." "To impress terror on their feelings by every atrocious cruelty that could deter them from expressing their disapproliation of these excesses." And a censorship was placed on the victims' correspond- ence so as to bury the truth and make this a secret prison. I was then set to work in the cooper-shop — they wanted to make a cooper of me so I would be a profit to the gang of 82 or $3 a day. It is evident that they knew in advance, in a secret u'ciy, that the Governor would hold on to me, though hioioiiuj I was shanghaied and never convicted. However, I did not owe the devils anything, and therefore I was no mechanic ; finding I was no account as a cooper, I was given the job of sawing ofi" the ends of the staves for the others to cooper ; this was a good job for the place, and I retained it as long as I worked in the shop — about a year. The coopers were given tasks, being about three-quarters of what would be a Journeymen's days work at $3 a day. But it should always be remembered that the inquisition of the mind that many prisoners sufier on account of their persecu- tions, is enough for them to endure without being compelled to labor at all, iclierein they can liave no possible interest ; " Doomed to deal out, forbidden to enjoy." And then, they suffer for not having the vacations and recreations, and suitable fare that others enjoy ; therefore prisoners should not be required to do more than half a regular days ivork, unless it be intended to break them down and drive them to the frenzy of despair and set them against icork the rest of their Hues, as was done in many cases at Seatco, and these too, who had been industrious workers all their lives. Influential members of secret charitable brotherhoods, 256 A Pilgrimage in Hell. when in prison for a time, never work much, and their health is hefter than other prisoners' loho ivorh hard. There are other modes of exercise besides that of unjxiid, thankless toil, and this toil is rarely any benefit to the State. It is stolen hy the gang who never work themselves, and if they drank less whiskey would be in pretty good health. A cooper here kept an account of what he earned for this secret gang. It amounted to about $3,500, and although he had never been punished — except as all others in a general way — and never openly charged with any misconduct, yet he could not get even the abatement of time provided by law. How does this " benefit society ? " As an example of how they would take the advantage of one's ignorance and industry I give this : Prisoners were issued some tobacco each week, but not enough for those much ad- dicted to its use, so one of the coopers told the superintendent that he would make an extra barrel each day for a week if he would give him twenty-five cents worth of tobacco. "I Avill do it, byG-o-a-d," was the reply, and at the end of the week he paid it, and then told the victim to "just keep on making four barrels a day, as that would be his task thereafter, without any extra tobacco." But for the reasons heretofore given this was more than he could do and do well, and consequently stood siege after siege of bread and water punishment, he being driven to retali- ate with bad work, etc., etc., and they had to take him out of the shop and put him at common work ; and when his time had rightfully expired, he was kept on several months longer (at seventy cents a day and his labor) " because of his bad con- duct." This bread and water punishment was to put a man into a darkened cell without a bed, and starve and in winter freeze him for from one to twenty days at a time. There should never and need never be any worse punishment for even real devils and the worst cases in prison. Tliis ought not to he forgotten. This was supposed to be the only punishment at Seatco ; but prisoners were tortured there in various other ways also. How TO Run a Reform Prison. 257 " Where o'er ber sLambles, Torture pants for breath, And ^vhere to look, to think, is death." So grasping were the contractors that they would work men on the verge of the grave. One being ill and unable to work was thrust in the bread and water cell, as was frequently done ; when let out he was insane ; he lay in his cell a few days with his clothes on and uncared for, when I helped him up to the hall and got him into the " hospital " (?) tailor and shoe-shop — ivMcli was all one. He did not know anyone, and was picking his clothes and begging for water ; he had typhoid-pneumonia. While in the bread and water cell, for days he drank dirty water to slake his burning thirst. He finally, by a mere scratch, recovered, but was unable to walk without crutches for a long time. He said that I had saved his life. This was when an ex-Governor was the Doctor. " We know the savage for what he is, the same every- where, the same ruthless, cruel, blood-thirsty, treacherous and tyrannical animal, ruling only by the strong hand, and with no innate conception of goodness or virtue." Others were forced out to work when ill, and soon after- wards died. A man was sick for over a year, so that he frequently had to be assisted to walk ; yet he was kept in heavy double irons all the time. After the prisoners were finally taken away from the contractors, he got full abatement of time for " his uniform good conduct " in spite of the abuse tending to drive a victim to desperation. As an example of how trifling and aggravating these masons were, I give this : Every one was expected to furnish his own comb ; but as one prisoner came in they kept his comb. It was a broken piece, but was all he had, and he wanted it ; so they trifled, lied and humbugged him about it till he re- fused to " go out to work until he got it ; " consequently they kept him on bread and water (a very little bread) sixty-three out of sixty-eight days till he was almost dead and could hardly walk, then they gave him the comb, and he resumed work. He was a pious man and had been a preacher. Another was treated the same way over a little tobacco ; 17 258 A Pilgrimage in Hell. he finally got his tobacco and resumed work — he had been a Sheriff. "Spirits of fire, that brood not long, But flash resentment back for wrong, And hearts "where, slow but deej^, the seeds, Of vengeance ripen into deeds." " Know their rights and kno^ving dare maintain." Even when prisoners are wrong in such little things, it should alioays he considered that they may he in a stress of mind that makes them morally irresponsihle for ivhat they may do, a7id are not really themselves. Only tyrants and devils will aggravate and then torture men when in such a frenzied condition. A prisoner was keeping a diary of what transpired at Seatco, but the warden took it from him with a severe warning to uncover nothing of their evil doings if he valued his liberty. They ivere midnight rnen and they icanted to make this a secret prison. I was taken from the cooper-shop and set to clearing land and farming ; the devils not content with ravaging the home I had made before, they wanted me to build and work another for them to enjoy. But I was worn down and had also learned as much as an Indian by this time, and considered home-build- ing a humbug, so I did not build very well or speedily. There- fore they cut the irons off, and turned me loose to work in and have charge of the dining-room, etc., and of the other prisoners while at their meals. I now ate in the kitchen, and lived as well as the guards or anybody on the ranch. I could have run away from the prison almost any day, as I was given no limits, and could go fishing between meals and my work. But conscious of my innocence I felt that I must surely get out without running, and I was doing all I could to this end, as will hereafter appear ; and that the road was in- deed "narrow, crooked, miry, stum i:)y, rocky," and ambushed with mystic devils armed with poisoned arrows that they shot in the dark. After being in the dining-room, etc., for about two years, I, with others, was employed by a sub-contractor at seventy-five cents a day to build a store and dwelling house by the rail- How TO EuN A Reform Prison. 259 road. One day, when this was about completed, while I was burning a pile of logs in the brush some distance from the building, one of the prisoners, having about a lifetime sentence, skipped out, and holding that I knew of his going, and had seen him pass by without giving an alarm, I must be punished accordingly, as was usual in such cases ; though I had told them at the outset that " / icouhl not guard a felloiv-prisoner from his liberty." So, for revenge, I was put in double irons again, given a nine foot saw to run alone, and was to be con- sidered and run like a saw-mill rushed with orders — to make wood for the railroad. Oh ! my countrymen, what a saw-mill ! ! The guard-and-chief-worthy-grand-master was drunk and mad ; in fact, he was always drunk and mad ; he drank a quart of bad whiskey every day, but he could not ruu that saw-mill to a profit. So he drank more whiskey and died. And the escaped prisoner was never caught. " He neither stayed to soothe or force. But wisely stole away." I was then transferred to the tailor-shop, where I slept; but I was a poor tailor — then to the kitchen, but I Avas a very poor cook. So not being fit for anything else, I was made room warden — that is I had charge of the big hall, and to a great extent over the conduct of all the prisoners while they were in it — about one-third of the daytime — which position I retained during the last several years at Seatco, and I do not think that any prisoner thus employed ever got along better with both prisoners and such officials, as will hereafter ap- pear. However, with all of his meanness and thievery in other respects, the warden was good to work under — that is to those engaged on the inside. I do not know of his ever finding any fault with any of my work, or much with that of others, and he was my boss the most of the time I was in prison ; he would frequently tell me to tell the guards " to go to hell" etc., if they assumed any authority over me. This hall was the only redeeming feature of the Seatco institution ; it gave all an opportunity to exchange reading matter, and to acquaint themselves with the knowledge and 260 A PlLGKIMAGE IN HeLL. experiences of the others, and many of them had had lots of it besides their experiences with lawyers and courts that give the worst characters the lightest sentences, bankrujDts and convicts the innocent, and charges $900 to settle a disjDute over a $9 calf, and gives an outsider against a midnight-man no justice at any price. Such free association of po-isoners {and rteivspapers) should he granted, let it be understood, to enable them to keep up ivith the times, so as to hold some ground against the world whose spotted hands are to be ever raised against them. Some of them were arouud-the-world sailors ; one was with the ill-fated Polaris and six months on an ice-floe ; some had been through the war on either side and that with Mexico, and wore the scars ; one was wounded as was Garfield, and re- covered without any fuss or physicians ; one was a brother of and on the staff of a famed general ; another was with Walker in his expeditions to Mexico and Central America ; nearly every nationality and country was represented, and a Mohammedan who wished himself back in India, and there were Indians of many tribes. Many of the inmates were ravaged home-builders ; then there were professional sports and criminals, who, when guilty, stood their imprisonment best ; home-builders stood theirs the worst — they " wanted to go home ! " Men who strike out in a wilderness to carve out homes with their own hard labor are not criminals, nor are they cowards or cringing slaves. One of these had put the proceeds of two farms in the States, and six years hard labor into a home, and considered himself worth $50,000, when the masons robbed him of it, and shanghaied him here to keep him from " making trouble " about it, and his wife and children had to work out for a living. He was advised that he would be pardoned (?) if he would not return to recover his own. His sentence was ten years. He was held several years till the plunder was secured, and the thieves could say, " Damn you, you can't ^it^ove that we did it," and his friends had delivered up their property too, then he was granted a new trial, and declared to be " innocent of any crime." And masons say, " We have a good Judi- ciary." Other victims could never get any trial as tliey How TO iiuN A Eefokm Prison. 261 could ^' prove tliat ihey did it,'' and thus "make trouble." So these had to sufier prolonged miseries not to be described in their gloom of black misfortune. Quite a number of mere boys were also inmates at seventy cents a day and their labor, and they went out much worse than when they came. One had honestly made and saved and loaned $200 or $300, which he would lose if not released a short time before his time ex- pired, and he begged the Governor to allow him to preserve it, but the Governor being his enemy, held him to the last day, and though the people (without any daylight opposition) had strongly petitioned for his release also. But what do black-leg officials care for the mere will of the people, or the well-being of outsiders. " They sneer at pleading virtue's tearful eye — the ' cold sneer which si^eaks the cankered heart,' And themselves are guilty of ' Crimes which load the groaning earth with shame. ' " And there were men fifty to sixty, and even seventy years old who had never been even arrested before, and were inno- cent yet. But practical masonry in its greed and " charity " (?) robs the cradle and the grave. And there were insane men who were beaten and kicked ; one such, however, was not ; for he would have killed his tor- menter too quick and sui e. There ranged from about fifty-five to one hundred prisoners at a time, but several would come and go nearly every month — as many as one could be intimately acquainted with and their various cases. I frequently assisted them in their correspond- ence as to their cases, etc., and know whereof I write as to the same. About two-thirds were native born. About twenty per cent, were innocent. Over fifty per cent, of those who were guilty were caused directly or indirectly by whiskey. And many who were innocent had only dared to defend them- selves against whiskey. A majority of the prisoners would vote for prohibition of whiskey. About twenty per cent, of those who were guilty were natural born criminals and generally calculated to join, after 262 A PiLGKIMAGE IN HeLL. their release, some secret cliaritable gang, " so that they too would have overpowering influence at court, and could commit crime with impunity." Imprisonment will never reform even those who need re- forming, until the courts and prison officials and Governors are reformed — they being worse criminals than the worst they send and hold in prison. It is amazing that facts so simple and vital should not be obvious to all. " Tlie wise may preacli, but wiser nature shows That half our heroes but frora midnight scoundrels rose." For the last S3veral years the big hall in the prison, when all were in, resembled a western saloon except the bar ; card playing, with Faro and other gambling games, checkers, chess, etc. ; reading and talking, chewing and smoking, and sometimes singing and dancing, with an occasional fight. However, but one man was ever thus laid up for repairs — this being done to the " hardest case in the prison " by " the most peaceable and meek of all " — with a knife. They did their own butchering at Seatco, and so grasping were these charitable brethren that they did this on Sunday, and they frequently used stock that had been killed by the railroad or was suffering from disease. This prison was different from any other in the world, there was no discipline, or humanity, or care for reform; but rather a school for crime ; the officials being teachers by pre- cept and example — the Governor being worthy-grand-high-chief of villainy. Work and money was all they wanted. They were a grasping, vulgar, smutty-mouthed, profane, card-playing, lying, drunken, brutal outfit of masons. Every means was used to prevent prisoners from getting out legitimately — the Governor being a willing tool. These official gentlemen would alienate prisoners from their friends in ways that were dark and cruel, and the petty tricks, juggles, frauds and cold-blooded lying one had to suffer, was a burning torment to the brain. By preventing them from writing, by holding back and squelching their letters, by lying about their conduct and their cases. For example : A prisoner's folks had written to him in regard to his appealing his case to How TO Run a Reform Prison. 263 the supreme court, and registered tlie letter ; this was held back for over a year till it was too late to do him any good. Another, on hearing that the Governor was going to a place near where his folks were, wrote to his wife accordingly, so she could meet and plead his case to him ; this was held back till the Governor had returned. And many letters were never heard from at all. They took all the writing material they could find from the prisoners (they robbed them of it) and made it a rule that none should write more than one letter a month. This I say was evidently done to alienate them from their friends and a helping hand; as though friends at such times didn't drop off fast enough anyway, and also to prevent victims of the gangs from maJdng their cases known and thus " make trouble " by exposing their villainy, and as though they could not squelch and steal letters fast enough as it was. Will you just think of the condition of men who were un- expectedly convicted? Their business and family matters un- settled ; and having been betrayed and sold by their attorneys, their cases not worked up so as to enable them to properly present them to the deaf and stony-hearted, grasping and high- priced executive, or higher court ; and gangs of robbers left free-handed and encouraged to ravage their unprotected homes, property, and families — from whom they have been kidnapped and torn by j^rostituting the courts, and ^cith whom they are now to be cut off from all certain communication. And then, for the Governor to give as a reason for holding them in such secret bastile, that "they might make trouble" with these same court-prostitu ting-home -ravagers and thieves — his brethren ! And, moreover, although there was a daily mail, it was only delivered once a week, if at all, and they frequently held back from mailing for a week or a month that which was handed out to mail — if they sent it at all. For example : A prisoner wrote and handed out a letter March 19; not hearing from it iu a month he wrote to the same person again April 21, he paying for the registering of each. It transpired that they were mailed together Ajiril 29th, thus holding back the first one about six weeks and the other eight days. 264 A Pilgrimage in Hell. Another letter was written and handed out July 27, mailed August 18 — held back twenty-two days. Another was written November 23, to a Judge, and held back till December 5. Just think of the torment— the inquisition of the mind of men thus treated while languishing in prison, and often in a dying condition ! A man was held for a cancer to gnaw his lip, face and life away. His neighbors petitioned in vain for his restoration at the outset of the cancer, when it could have been cut out. He finally put up a large sum of money to get out, and after tor- turing delays was released to die such a death. He was an old pioneer and a good citizen. A man complained to a visiting member of the legislature that he had sent thirteen letters without hearing from any, and asked him to smuggle one out and mail it for him, which he willingly did, and it brought a reply. Frequently guards, ministers and other visitors, and others intimate with prisoners would do this. This loas real charity to the oppressed, and better than armloads of tracts and sermons. Sometimes letters were thrown onto passing trains, or dropped on the road— trusting to tramps and Providence. A sick prisoner whose illness the ofl&cials and prison doctor would not recognize, wrote to an eminent physician to come and give him a thorough examination and prescribe for him ; this they would not sent. Yet, when they themselves were sick — as they were with horrible diseases — they discarded the prison doctors for others, as more competent to treat them. Letters were smuggled to wives, brothers, sisters, etc.; and to judges, ministers, members of the legislatures, editors, etc. But it was difficult to make even one's own friends at a dis- tance understand the horrible condition of affairs, and that the Governor was so loyal to the gang. One said, that he could not make " his own mother comprehend this." And editors, etc., being generally of the same brotherhood, were therefore loath to expose its crimes and cruelties ; though occasionally some of the press had something to say in condemnation of the Seatco secret hell, clippings of which I have preserved, as will How TO KuN A Reform Prison. 265 hereafter appear, though such papers were generally squelched from the prisoners. Of course, a Governor, ivith hut the pardoning poiuer alone, can correct any prison abuse, and has oppo^iunities to shoiv the same to the people. A prisoner undertook to register his letters ; they were of vital importance and he wanted them to go. This was opposed on one false pretext after another, until they found that he could get them out in some other way unknown to them. But then they would frequently delay mailing them, refuse to give up receipts, or squelch the letters entirely, or the answers to them. Anyway, many answers were written and mailed but not received. He also undertook to send a statement or epitome of his case to a friend to publish ; this the warden frequently declared he "did mail and register," and he charged for it accordingly ; but he " forgot (?) the receipt." No return receipt came ; he would not permit the matter to be traced up, and the M. S. S. was not received. So he evidently stole it. It had cost the prisoner $5 to get a copy of it to the Executive office. I will give this epitome to the reader in due course. Complaints were made to the Governor of such abuses, but they might just as well have been made to the devil. He did not want the true cases of innocent prisoners to he made hioicn to the public, as this might alleviate their sufferings, compel their release, and bring condemnation on the gang. It appeared that the Insane asylum was also run by a gang of midnight gentry, and that letters of the inmates were treated in the same manner as here. But one of the sane persons they were holding, managed to live to get hei* liberty in some way, and by writing a pamphlet and otherwise agitating the masonic abuses, got, after much opposition and by fighting it through personally, the following law passed by the legislature. The Insane Asylum Act. The following is the text of the law "to protect inmates of insane asylums." Sec. 1. Be it enacted, etc.. That henceforth there shall be no censor- ehii? exercised over the correspondence of the inmates of insane asylums, except as to the letters to them directed, but their other post office rights shall be as free and unrestrained as are those of any other resident, or 266 A Pilgrimage in Hell. citizen of our Territory, and be under the protection of the same postal laws. And every inmate shall be allowed to write one letter per week, to any person he or she may choose. And it is hereby made the duty of the superintendent to furnish each and every inmate of each and every insane asylum, both pubhc and private iu the Territory of Washington, Avith suit- able material for writing, enclosing, seahng, 6tamj)ing and maihng letters, sufficient for the writing of one f our-jiage letter a week, j^rovided they re- quest the same, iinlcss they are otherwise furnished with it; and all these letters shall be droj^jjed by the writers themselves, accompanied by an at- tendant when necessary, into a post office box, proAided by the Territory at the institution, iu some place easily accessible to all the patients; and the contents of these boxes shall be collected at least as often as once in each Aveek, by an authorized post office agent. And it is hereby made the duty of the superintendent of every insane asylum in the Tenitory of Wash- ington both public and private, to dehver or cause to be dehvered to said person, any letter or writing to him or her directed, provided the physician in charge does not consider the contents of such letter dangerous to the mental condition of the jiatient. Sec. 2. That in the event of the sudden or mysterious death of any inmate of any insane asylum, either public or private, in the Territory of Washington, such fact shall be rejiorted by the superintendent thereof to the coroner of the county in which such death occurs, or to the nearest justice of the peace therein, and a coroner's inquest shall be held as pro- vided by law in other cases. And in all asyhim investigations, the testimony of any person offered as a witness, whether sane or insane, shall be com- l^etent, and the court and jtiry shall be the sole judges of the credibility of such testimony. Sec. 3. That any jierson refusing or neglecting to comply with, or ■willfully and knowingly violating any of the pro\-ision3 of this act, shall upon convection thereof, be punished by imprisonment in the penitentiary for a term not exceeding three years, or by fine not exceeding five hundred dollars, or both at the discretion of the court, and shall be ineligible to any office in the institution afterward. If the coroner, or justice of the peace, court, or jury were sworn secret-brethren to those who had poisoned or otherwise murdered or abused inmates, then of what avail would be sec. 2 of the law, or sec. 1, either ? The sane inmate they had held, endeavored to have the mail addressed to the inmates, protected in the same way, but the ring influence was too strong. Wlien thus amended tins should be the laiu as to all prisons, and *^ charitable" (?) brethren should be disqualified /or office. All reasons and excuses against such a law are flimsy and I How TO Run a Reform Prison. 2G7 false and against equal justice. No hlack-leg official should be allowed to touch a letter addressed to or by a jjrisoner. Remember that even guilty prisoners are not worse than other men, whose persons are held sacred against the laws they violate with impunity ! And whether they are or not, none but a tyrant and thief would deny them a public hearing, and let the 'people judge. And if such a law was universal and enforced, thousands of inno- cent and sane prisoners would at least be heard from, who have never yet had a hearing and are languishing in secret prisons in the agony of despair ! When everybody know^s that the courts and other functions of government, with a servile press, are used as machines to shield the worst and most dangerous criminals, and to plunder and ravage for the gang, that they are sinks of prostitution, rotten with crime and soaked with the hearts' blood of the in- nocent, will the 2)eople not thenfore see to it, that these innocent vic- tims shall at least have a hearing ? Freedom of speech and correspondence are completely an- nihilated, and tlteir lives are in perpetual danger, while their pre- carious existence depends upon the fraud or violence of every- thing that approaches them. And their mental faculties, that should aid their individual and corporal weakness, are unculti- vated and neglected /or ivant of communication ivith their flloiv- creatures. Do not he too much deafened by the chatter, poAver and in- fluence of the gang, to hear the still voice of personal anguisli. At least think of those ivho are languishing and dying icithout a hearing, while you are reading this ! Though secret-ring men are seldom prosecuted for their crimes, except in a farcical way, for a blind, and to tuin the people's money into their pockets, yet, when one's crime has be- come too notorious, and the people are watching, in spite of them and their press to hide it or give it another name, they may apparently permit him to be punished as other men. — As example : There was one such, who got one year at Seatco while another man, for the same kind of offense, but who was less guilty, had four and a half years. The gentleman was turn- ed into the hall, with the rest of us, to amuse himself for a 268 A Pilgrimage in Hell. couple of days, with a bottle of whiskey and liis pistol in his pockets ; then he was turned out to go about the country and live and attend to his business as he pleased. There was no censorship exercised over his correspondence. He was an auctioneer and surveyor, and got such employment about the country while a prisoner. The people living near the prison became favorably im- pressed with many of the prisoners, who were frequently en- gaged to work for them on their release without any prejudice, and sometimes married into their families. One, thus, to his eternal shame, became related to one of the prison contractors. He did his courting while a prisoner. Another example of a secret ring man who had followed an unarmed man up while on his way home with some friends, and shot him dead. The people wanted to lynch him, but he being one of the gang, he was released on bail, and about a year afterwards was sentenced to two and a half years ; but belonging to the same brotherhood as the Governor, he soon pardoned him out, while spurning justice and the expressed will of the people, to release others who had never been guilty at all. And he knew it. For years no minister preached to the prisoners. I re- member one calling in to visit them ; the warden let him in the hall and then stood in the door watching him as though afraid he would steal something, which so annoyed the preacher (as was intended) that he soon left, saying, that " the warden evi- dently considered him an intruder, and wanted him to leave." Another preacher said that he " would come and preach to the boys if he could get his horse fed and his dinner, but that they would not tlnis accommodate him," so he did not come. Finally, the legislature provided for two preachers, each to visit the prison once a month, and under this provision we had five or six different ones. They were reminded that the oth- cials and Governor needed reforming more than their prisoners which, after becoming acquainted with both, they found out themselves and so declared. Some of them took a practical interest in the prisoners, and on learning how their letters were stolen, would take out letters for them, and would also write letters in their behalf. I How TO KuN A Refokm Prison. 269 One "went to see the Governor as to what was required to secure the release of one of the innocent prisoners (Mr. D ) whose case he (the preacher) had investif^ated and found to be so. His Excellency put him off with " Oh, yes ; I have seen Mr. D , and he told me all about his case. I am consider- ing it, good-day." He had never exchanged a single ivord with the prisoner about his case. The fact was, these ring Governors did not want to know of a prisoner's innocence, and would sneer at and close their ears and eyes to the most jjositive proof there- of ; and the plaintive wails of their helpless suffering victims was as music to their little cankered souls. The Judiciary being a part of the gang, was good to them and " must be up- held." Mr. Parker was the bravest, and most earnest and practi- cal of any minister that we had, and we were all always so glad to see him come and visit us ; he would condemn the black- legs as frankly as did any x^risoner, and he tried to get the warden removed, and get some one with some good morals in his place ; said that he " had written several letters to the Governor making serious charges against the officials, but that he (the Governor) would not even answer his letters." Then he applied to the legislature to reform the abuses, to which his Excellency (?) replied by bouncing Mr. Parker. I believe that the Governor was virtually sworn to shield the other officials, as they belonged to the same oath-bound society. No evangelist need, however, to expect the confidence, or even respect, of prisoners who will not openly condemn official criminals, and advocate justice to their victims. Mr. Parker had been so prejudiced or rather misinformed as to these prisoners that he was very timid on his first visit to them, as though afraid of his life, and was accompanied in the hall with a guard ; he stopped near the door, delivered his sermon, and got out as quick as one would from a den of lions. But by the next time he came he had informed himself and came in alone, and then, as ever afterwards, went the length of the hall shaking hands in familiar intercourse and getting acquainted with as many as he could, and did his preaching at the further end of the hall. He would thus prolong his visits declaring that " the association of the prisoners as a whole, 270 A Pilgrimage in Hell. was much moi'e congenial to liim than that of the officials who would rather play cards and talk smut than to hear him or the others pi each morality and justice," and they did so at the same time in an adjoining room. The other ministers were also very good and sociable and all that ; but they were afraid to oppose and fight the devil ivhere he had any poiuer, and were therefore of little practical use. There was a board of prison directors, including the Gov- ernor, but as they were brother masons to the contractors, they played a very silly and cruel farce. Such boards of breth- ren are a useless expense to the peopile ; they are loorse than useless^ for they can screen and whitewash abuses and blind the people. I remember a picnic party visiting the prison on a 4th of July; their sociability, the songs they and the prisoners sang, and the kindly feeling they manifested to them on seeing and learn- ing some of the cruelties practiced here by secret villainy — some weeping ; the superintendent growled out that he " wished the}^ Avould stay away and not be slinging their snot around here," He was pretty drunk, but drunk or sober, this expressed his style and feeling. A sick prisoner pleading to him to be excused from work, using the names of the doctor and Governor, would get in re- ply, " By G-o-a-d, / am the doctor ! / am the Governor, and / am the lau\ too, by G-o-a-d ! " And so he was. A whole community would earnestly petition the Governor to justly restore a prisoner to them, but in vain, against the crook of this animal's little finger. He would promise prisoners to assist them in getting re- leased, and then evidently oppose it. He promised one that " if he would keep quiet and work faithfully for two years he would then take hold and assist him to get released,'' and poor Ben believed it. No man was more " quiet " or worked more faithfully than he ; so when the two long, weary years were thus woi'ked and suffered out, he suggested to the gentleman that he make the promised effort, and got this in return, " Oh ! if I was in your place, Ben, I wouldn't bother the Gov- ernor about it — there is France ! if he had not been so anxious about it he would have been out l-o-n-g ago." France had then been in about two and a half years, and poor, honest J Sick Prisoner. "You go to work! for /am the Doctor, the Governor, and the law too!' (271) 272 A Pilgrimage in Hell. Ben is not released yet. He was a peaceable, liard-working, honest man all of his life, is a cripple, and in repelling a bad assault shot his assailant and he died. He was told that " if he would swear that his assailant was reaching behind him (as others do) he would probably come clear, otherwise they might hang him;" he replied that "they might hang him but he would not lie," and he got fourteen years in prison accordingly. This, while other men had killed their man in cold blood and were acquitted, or not even tried at all. He had the same shyster lawyers that did me up, and they were a curse to him also. They took all of his property except $50, which one of them was to collect and send to him ; but he could never get even a reply to any one of a dozen letters ; and when he even begged for enough to buy a few postage stamps. Now, if a black-leg Governor thought he would want to collect that $50, he would hold him till the last minute to keep him from " be- ing troublesome " to a brother thief. An inexperienced man is easily convicted when his lawyers are traitors, and they so often are. For example I give this : An old, hard-working, prosperous settler was jerked up and thrown into the grasp of the " law," and was told by his lawyer — " an honored member of the bar" — at "trial" that he "could not be sworn in his own behalf," and was like\vise kept from prov- ing an alibi ; so there was no evidence in his own behalf, and he got twelve years at Seatco. Just because two of the gang swore that he had assaulted one of them with a shot gun ; when, in fact, he was at a place six miles away at the time the assault was said to have been made (though there was no wound) which alibi was afterwards established. Yet the ring Governor replied that " we have a good Judiciary which must be upheld." If the Judiciary was good, it would not be run by black- leg shysters ; nor would the testimony of midnight conspirators be taken as evidence against other men ; nor would members of the gang select the jury. "The law is a sort of hocus-pocus science, that smiles in your face while it picks your pocket, and the glorious uncer- tainty of it is of more use to the professors, than the justice of it." How TO EuN A REFORAr Prison. 273 " AutI, indeed, the greatest imrt of mankind are so far from liA-iug ac- cording to tlie laws, that they hardly know them ; but when they have sinned, they learn from others that they have transgressed the law. Those also who are in the highest and pnm'ii)al posts t)f the Government confess they are not acquainted with those laws, and are obliged to take such jjersons for their assessors in jJubUc administrations as profess to have skill in those laws." "If any Judges take bribes, their punishment is death. And he that overlooks one that offers him a petition, and this when he is able to reUeve him, he is a guilty person. — Laws of Moses." As to Seatco fare : They would kill beef aud salt it dowu a year ahead, using too much saltpetre ; and then it would often be spoiled. Some spoiled meat was shown to the Gov- ernor who declared " that it was good ! " right in the face of seventy -five men who knew he lied, and he knew that they knew he lied. Should the testimony of such men be taken as evidence in or out of court ? The cook told the superintendent that " the men would not eat that meat. ' " Well," he replied, " send it back again." " But suppose they don't eat it then ? " " Well, by G-o-a-d, youjiisf send it hack till they do eat it." They had plenty of ground, and plenty of labor that the people paid them seventy cents a day for using, so they had plenty of common vegetables ; but with little or nothing to cook with them it was like hog feed, and old potatoes were sometimes used two or three months after their season. Sometimes a part of the men would refuse to work on ac- count of the poor grub, and consequently go on bread and water — which they would say was *' about all they were getting anyway." But this not being as profitable as their labor, the fare would improve a little. And then on account of such "misconduct" their abatement of time rightfully earned, would be denied them. But they did not thus lose very much, /or nobody got such abatement oj time, with very rare exceptions— ]\\9,i enough to swear by, aud create false hopes in others. Here is an example or two of " bad conduct " reports : A couple of boys had come for five years ; had put in the most of the time ; had never been punished or charged with an}- bad conduct, and were trustees — could go where they liked so they 18 274 A Pilgrimage in Hell. did not neglect their work ; their friends got a good petition for their pardon — including the injured party — and one of them took it to the Governor. The Governor told him if he would get a certificate from the prison superintendent - (always one of the contractors) — of their good conduct there, he " would let them go." So the friend proceeded to the prison, where he saw for himself how the boys were trusted, etc.; he then made his request to the superintendent who was thus forced to admit the good conduct of the boys ; but instead of giving the friend a certificate in accordance with the same, he promised to " forthwith write and mail it to the Governor." The boys not being released, the friend made another visit to the Governor, and there found their conduct certified to be " uni/ormh/ had." This everybody thereabouts and the Governor himself hieio to be false ; but it was " official " and done for a pretext to stab justice and the expressed ivill of the people. The boys were then told that " it was useless to bother the Governor any more about it for he would not let them go," and he didn't ; though they got some abatement of time on account of their conduct being "uniformly good." The friends of a prisoner who was working in the sash and door factory, on applying for his release, got from the Governor, as a reason for den^nng their petition, "that he had broken some machiner}-," this was the first that he or any of his associates had heard of any such thing. It was false, but it was "official," and being from a secret brother, it was " lawful," and a lie. A prisoner paid a lawyer $10, and in various other ways tried to get a brief of whatever was on file at the executive office concerning him, but utterly failed to get it done. The Governor loould squelch petitions and other documents that ivere favorable to a prisoner. Prisoners were promised (by the officials) certificates of good conduct and also recommendations for pardon, and in some cases it was declared that this " had been done," and yet the Governor would declare to their friends that " their con- duct was bad," as an excuse for holding them against the sober second thought of the people. " In whatever manner governments insensibly grow among mankind, the power consists in the aggregate mass of the How TO Run a Reform Prison. 275 people, though it is exercised by the few who are trusted with it, aud who would cease to have any power at all to exercise, if the people should refuse to obey and to enforce their authority. It is clear, therefore, that the Governors were made for (lie governed, and that it is an abuse of the Institution lulienever the happiness of the governed is made subservient to that of the Gov- ernor s^ The chief officer of the Bastile being always interested against a prisoner's justice, and considering the kind of creat- ures they were anyway, it was outrageous and masonry to allow him to be " Governor, Doctor, and the Law, by G-o-a-d ! " • The Governor and company ivere thus the most cruel, relent- less enemies in advance to a prisoner ; he did not make tJiem so, re- member ; they were already made so, and thirsting for his heart's blood ! The Governor could easily know the true conduct of any man there, if he cared to know, and he generally did know it in spite of himself. However, their conduct as citizens at home, and justice, which whole communities knew, and frequently testified to, would interest and govern him more if he was a good citizen himself and an honest official. Many of the guards, from first to last, were pretty good men and some were first class ; but such did not often remain long ; while the worst were never discharged and never quit. They, however, sometimes died — drinking themselves to death. They would take a quart bottle of whiskey with them every day, aud for months at a time did not draw a sober breath. The " Governor-doctor-and-law " gentleman finally got down also ; his toes rotting off, and his legs were cut off just where he had riveted heavy irons on so many innocent suffer- ing victims, who now felt that " Heaven is sometimes just, and pays us back in measures that we mete." " Though the mills of God grind slowly. Yet they grind exceedingly small ; Though ^Wth patience he stands waiting, With exactness grinds he all." If honestly dealt with, half of the prisoners would not run away, were they not guarded at all. I give an example. A 276 A Pilgrimage in Hell. guard, who was always good to the boys, while working a gang of eight or ten in the woods, fell asleep, and thus slept till the superintendent was seen approaching, when one of the men woke him up " for Old Shead is coming." There was but two in the gang that wanted to run away, but they would not do so from Lon, but did afterwards from other guards. One of the superintendents refused to give men who were working hard in his hay field a drink of buttermilk, "because he wanted it for his hogs." The secretary of the prison said that it " cost the con- tractors less than twenty cents each per day to keep the pris- oners," and sometimes, when drunk, would say that he kept two sets of books, one set being private and that "this was cor- rect." It was said also, that "there was never a credit mark for any prisoners, but plenty of black ones." A prisoner's mother finding that the Governor spurned the judgment and expressed will of the people most interested, as to releasing her son, came and placed $100 in his hand, and told him to "jump away," and he did. A prisoner loaned to one of the contractors over $1,000 in gold " for a few days only," and could never recover it. The court gave a judgment for the amount, but the law would work no further against the secret brother. Many years afterwards, when the victim was finally released, it was on condition that he leave and stay away from the country, so as not to be " troublesome " to the thieves who had looted him. And it was whispered that he had to receipt in full for the $2,100 which was then due him. He, however, returned to his home, and when the Governor had him arrested to be re-imprisoned, Judge Wingard turned him loose. He complained of attempts being made to poison him, and he often regretted his not ac- cepting an offer to buy his liberty years before for a large sum of coin in bank; but, being ignorant of the men he had to deal with, he expected to get out on the merits of his cause. From Josephus. - " Nor was there any sort of wickedness that could be named, but Albinus had a hand in it, he did not only steal and plunder every one's substance, nor did he only burden the whole nation with taxes, but he permitted the re- lations of such as were in prison for robbery to redeem them C277) 278 A Pilgrimage in Hell. with money, and nobody remained in the prisons but lie who gave him nothing. The principal men among them purchasing leave of Albinus to go on with their evil practice, while that part of the people who delighted in disturbances joined them- selves to such as had fellowship with Albinus, and every one of those wicked wretches was encompassed with his own band of robbers, while himself, like an arch robber or a tyrant made a figure among his company, and abused his authority over those about him, in order to plunder those that lived quietly. The effect ol which was this, that those who lost their goods were forced to hold their peace, when they had reason to show great indignation at what they had suffered ; but those who had escaped, were forced to flatter him that deserved to be pun- ished, out of the fear they were in of suffering equally with the others. Upon the whole, nobody durst speak their minds, for tyranny was generally tolerated, and at this time were these seeds sown which brought Jerusalem to destruction. And though such was the character of Albinus, yet did Gessius Florus, who succeeded him [as Eoman Governor — A.D. 66] demonstrate him to have been a most excellent person upon the comparison, he omitted no sort of rapine or of vexa- ation. Where the case was really pitiable, he was most bar- barous, and in things of the greatest turpitude, he was most impudent. Nor could anyone outdo him in disguising the truth, nor could, anyone contrive more subtle ways of deceit than he did. He, indeed, thought it but a petty offense to get money out of single persons, and did almost publicly proclaim it all the country over, that they had liberty given them to turn robbers, on this condition that he might go shares with them in the spoils they got." There was a room, 20x20 feet, in the gang's bastile that was used for a shoe-making shop, tailor-shop, and hospital, except when there were women prisoners, when it was occupied by them ; the tailor and shoemaker going up to the unfinished garret, and the sick— well, nobody was supposed to be sick. An invalid lay on his back on a table in the big hall for seven or eight months with a hip disease, and the sick, when able, frequently bought their own medicine. This hall was as much How TO Run a Reform Prison. 279 " the hospital " as was the tailor and shoe shop — and there was no other. However, one woman prisoner occupied a shanty in the yard for two and a half years. This was an Indian woman, who, being jealous of her husband, a white man, at a dance waylaid and shot him dead while he was returning home ; and he not being a secret brotherhood man, it was not considered much of a crime to thus kill him. She was also allowed to bring her three children with her, the gang getting sixty cents each per day for them, besides the seventy cents for their mother. One of the contractors was married to an Indian woman — does any one suppose that had she killed him in a like manner she would have got off so light ? An Indian boy was sick with a scrofula disease, and begged and cried to be let " go home to his mother," who, he was " sure, tvould cure him" and other Indians declared that " just such cases were cured by them." But he begged and cried in vain ; he being held to die by inches without suitable food or care and crying to " go home ! " His chum, who had come with him, wanted to wheel him to the station and see him home ; their time by this time having nearly expired— hui the last drop of blood must be wrung out. They were convicted of stealing a little grub from a wood- man's cabin— while white men who loot whole ranches are run for office. This is but a sample case where hapless prisoners were thus held on to, to miserably die by inches ; when an un- tamed cannibal would have let them go home and be cured. The treatment of this boy drove his Indian chum to despera- tion ; though having but a few days to stay, he jumped the place, procured a gun, and declared for vengeance— though having been peaceably disposed always before. ' ' Dreadful il was to see Ike ghastly stare. The st(my look of horror and despair. Which some of these expiring victims cast. Upon their souVs tormentor to the last. Upon that mocking fiend, whose veil now raised, Showed them, as in death's agony they gazed. — Moare'^ A white woman, with a large family of small children, told 280 A Pilgrimage in Hell. her boy to defend their home which they had dug out of the woods, against a secret ring jumper who was then tearing down their fence, and the boy did so effectually as to him ; there- fore the mother was sent to Seatco for five years, and with never a child to comfort her. Her aggravated agony and heart- rending moanings for her little children, left in sore distress, as she walked the floor night and day in a frenzy of grief and despair, would make any honest man curse the court that desolates, loots and murders honest, hard earned homes, in- stead of at least lending a hand — without eating up the place — for their protection. One morning, this virtuous, home-loving mother of a large family of helpless children, was found hanging to a post in her cell, dead. Did she do it ? or was she horribly murdered ? An executive or other prison official, who spurns every crumb of justice or of charity, and even decent usage, to one of these luckless looted victims — whose shrieks of torture is to them the essence of delight — should be made to suffer in kind. I was present when the Governor' s attention was called to this event and the friendly post — he manifested no more feel- ing than had the victim been a rat. Another woman, to repel an indecent assault, threw a lamp at her assailant, and he died. This was also made a crime and she was sent to the bastile with promises of a speedy release — as is so common ivith the deceivers. She soon found these promises to be a delusion and lie, and after an illness died. It was the prison talk that for months she did not go to bed at night on account of fear ; and that during her illness one of the officials gave her frequent doses of medicine. She had no female attendant, indeed, none had. There were several different doctors at different times, but they hardly ever exercised any authority. One, however, told a prisoner with much feeling, that he was getting the heart disease from. his troubles and sufferings, and to "just look out and care for himself, for nobody else would, and called him back when he had been called out to work, telling him not to work, ex- cept as he felt able if he valued his life ! " This doctor, however, soon got bounced, but the sick prisoner was held on to with a vicious, craving desire to wring out and lap his heart's blood. How TO Run a Reform Prison. 281 After a long time a few newspapers were got to condemn the cruelties at Seatco (Seatco is Indian for "the devil's home "). One paper (Seaffle Chronlch') demanded a change, or it would expose the whole brutal swindle. This had a good effect, so that even the Governor recommended that the legisla- ture buy movable irons and do away with the others, and it authorized him to do so /orthiu it h. Yet it was about a ^/taz- before he got them, and tivo and a half years before the others were done away with, which displayed how earnest he was to lessen the misery of better men. Those permanent irons broke down many a good man, and caused more to jump away than they kept from it. Some, while striking for their liberty, were shot. One was shot through the heart, it was said, after he had stopped, turned round, and thrown up his hands ; and another was shot after he had surrendered. Even guards would frequently say that they " did not blame men from jumping away from such a hell." When the legislature convened, it would send out a com- mittee to investigate matters; but, as they were brother masons, they did little or nothing against the gang. The prisoners represented and complained that the warden should be an in- dependent and responsible moral man; appointed and paid by the Territory, to stand between the rights of the prisoners and the Territory, and the cruel greed of contractors, instead of being as he then was, one of their servile hands. This they agreed to, and the legislature appropriated $600 a year to pay such a warden, but they left it to the Governor to appoint the man, which his excellency (?) did, in the perso7i of the very same servile hand the contractors then had employed^ thus simply making them a present of $600 a year of the people's money, and doing the prisoners no good. At one session of the legislature, the members came out in a body, and in freely mingling and conversing with the prison- ers in the hall, were quite fully informed as to the abuses they suffered. One prisoner addressed them at length, showing up the cruelties and corruptions in an able and interesting man- ner, and with plenty of proof at hand to establish, beyond dis- pute, every charge. The chief contractor was called in to face 282 A Pilgrimage in Hell. aud refute, if lie could, charges, that if true, should have hung the whole gang. And he did not even deny a single accusation. It was also shown that the Governor's message was false as to the prison. For example : That he had credited the con- tractors with keeping six more prisoners than were there, and that the people were deceived and robbed in various other ways also, as will hereafter appear. If there was a single member of that body who was not convinced that this was a most brutal swindle of a prison, he did not manifest it there, or encoiirage furllier proof, while they mostly freely condemned it as such a hell. And some of them earnestly reqiiested Mr. Strong's speech to use openly in the legislature and to have it published also, and he gave it to them accordingly. One of the contractors, declining to face the flaming charges against him, and who, like the rest, was opposed to giving a victim a hearing anyway, slipped up into the garret, and with his ear to the floor, listened insidiously to the prison- er's great speech, which he had written on brown paper — the only kind he could procure. I asked a couple of members, who sat by me during its de- livery, as I did others also, whether they "believed those charges to be true ? " And they replied that they " believed everv one of them, for — they said— they were evidently true by the proof they heard and saw for themselves, and that men in such a situation should be considered more trustworthy tuhen testifying against officials over them than others not in duress," and that " besides, if any charges were not true, this loas the time and place to refute it, but which ivas not attempted." They also pledged themselves earnestly (as we thought) to do all they could to rectify the abuses, and end the fraudulent contract. " Then," I said, " you do not believe the Governor ? " " No," one said, " and I never did." They also said that Mr. Strong should be protected from punishment *' for so bravely exposing the cruelties and corruptions and pleading for right and justice." Some appeared to be horrified aud infuriated at these teachers of crime, these human serpents, who, when challenged to meet the charges against them of heinous crime, had crawled His Penalty for Making a Speech. Exposing the tortures of the secret BastUe. 284 A Pilgrimage in Hell. out of sight, to strike their victims in the dark with secret poicer and ohligation. And many of the members made a second visit, and left apparently more confirmed and determined to break up the brutal swindle. Yet when the legislature had adjourned, the contractors had got an extension of tivo years, and Mr, Strong's speech — Avhich contained more vital information to the people than all the messages and other writings of all the Governors of the Territory, before, at the time, or since — had been squelched. Nor had he been protected from abuse for his earnest honesty, and was therefore punished by pulling out nine of his teeth, and in various other ways also— this was hitting virtue with a club. And when the people had petitioned very strongl}-, and without any open opposition, for his restoration, it was denied by the Governor on the ground, that "he had thus caused the contractors much trouble." "Then," replied his very aged mother who had come from the States, to work for his libert}^ " he has been driven to it by abuse ! for I have successfully raised a large family of boys and girls, and this one has will- ingly given me less trouble than any of the rest." Such is the practical workings of Masonry and its like, which sets good men to studying the philosophy of anarchy and of socialism, if the gang cannot be killed ; there being no security for liberty, for property, or for life, as it is. " "While every tear liis [looted] children shed Fell on his soul like drops of flame : And as a lover hails the dawn Of a first smile, so welcomed he The sparkle of the first sword drawn For vengeance and for liberty." — Moore. This legislature, and the succeeding one, however, provided for the building of a territorial prison at Walla Walla ; but in- stead of utilizing the labor of the prisoners in its construction, which was entirely practicable, they were left with the con- tractors, at 70 cents a day, till it was slowly built. And even then the Governor and contractors would hardly permit their removal, notwithstanding that it had been provided for by the legislature, and would be a large daily saving to the territory and a measure of justice to the prisoners. How TO EiTN A Reform Puison. 285 Indeed, the gang thus held on to them for the money there was in it, in direct violation of the law, till the Governor was compelled by the people of Walla Walla and the notoriety of the swindle, to let them go. The legislature had appropriated $50,000 for the main- tainance of the prisoners, wherever they might be, and $1,000 for their removal to the new prison " whenever it was suitable for occupancy." Yet, the gang could get blackleg shysters to declare, that " while it was legal to pay 70 cents each and their labor per day to such a gang, it was illegal to pay out 25 cents each per day direct for their maintainauce, and retain the labor besides." They practically held, that "no money should he paid Old of the treasury unless 65 per cent, should be clear to the GANG." The Walla Walla brethren were willing to take a less per cent., which did not please the Governor; but by their ad- vancing the means necessary to maintain the prisoners — thus leaving the Governor without his flimsy pretext -he finally and reluctantly complied with the law to remove them. An eminent Mason came to see a man who had been robbed and shanghaied here, telling him that he would get him releas- ed for what money he had left ; he accepted the proposition but on the positive condition, that the former was not to get any money until his release was secured. This was the distinct agreement in the presence of the superintendent. The gentle- man wrote an order, supposed and said to be in accordance with the agreement, and in the excitement, flurry, stress and hurry — made for tlie p)urpose — the victim was got to sign the paper, without knowing anything to the contrary. The "Hon. leading-light-in-the-profession-and-head-of-the-bar" fortliwitli struck out and got the money, kept it, and dropped his victim, who went crazy immediately. This victim was undoubtedly in- nocent of any crime, and this case is given as a mere specimen of others. "What mighty mischief glads him now, Who never smiles but to destroy. " Months afterwards the eminent gentleman of the " bar " died, and though he was a notorious thief for twenty years, j-et the ring papers were filled with glowing eulogies of the depart- ed brother, but had never a word to say for his hundreds of 286 A Pilgrimage in Hell. suffering victims But of the brutal, grasping, cowardly thief they said, that " he was bright, shrewd and ambitious, stood at the head of the bar, was repeatedly elected to the legislature, nominated for delegate to Congress, he invested [what he stole] in real estate, and, in the constant rise, made money fast. He built two of the most elegant residences on the Sound .... the ]ieople of Pierce county have lost their most able advocate, most loyal citizen and best friend." Now, is this " charity," or is it an outrage on justice, to make cowardly pillage respectable and aggravate the wounds of his bleeding, dying victims ? It was the prison talk that it took money to get a pardon. And as men with the worst cases and characters, and with slight, if any, petitions, were pardoned, while others whose in- nocence, good character and conduct were known to all who cared to know, and with very strong petitions withal, were left to languish ; this talk therefore was but reasonable. And some whispered how much their release would cost. For example — that his "was bargained for $1000." (And he went, too, though he had plead guilty to highway robbery, was an old offender, had run away and been extradited from British Columbia and made a second attempt, and had served but a fifth of his sen- tence.) Another said that his pardon would cost his folks about $700, (and he went also, having served but a small portion of his time.) The ring papers said, that a "numerously signed petition did the business." "When the truth was, the Governor would scarcely look at a "numerously signed petition." For example. — A "numerously signed petition" was sent in to the Governor for the release of a prisoner who was guilty of no crime ; he said that " as others had become impatient and begged and urged the Governor to act on their petitions with- out avail, he would let him take his own time and way without pressing him, and see if he would not be more successful." So he and his family waited and suffered, as patiently as they could, for six long, miserable, anxious mouths ; and then, the Governor being at the bastile, he mentioned the matter to him, who finally remembered that there was a petition in his office How TO KuN A Reform Prison. 287 in this prisoner's behalf, "but," said his excellency, "I have not looked at it yet." But he declared that he would " look at it " as soon as he returned. Whether he ever did or not " look at it " made no difference, for the victim served out his five years. I have lately talked with an old neighbor of this victim and he declares that "everybody " knows, and did at the time, that it was a put-up job against him by an enemy for unjust re- venge and plunder ; and he had relied on one of the blackleg shysters that sold and betrayed me. In such cases the judge and jury may know little or nothing about a man's real case, even if they are not fixed against him. It is only necessary to fix his lawyer, which is a very common thing to do. Surely, such devilish treason should be killed oid on sight I In this case the victim believed that he kneiv, that he was thus sold for $150 ; and there are brethren in the gang, who have cried up this traitorous thief for a judge in " our good Judiciar}^" One of my jurymen said that he learned more of my real case a day or two after the so-called trial, than he did at that corrupt performance, and that "now all he blamed me for was that I did not kill the devil sooner than I did ;" and which is the general sentiment of my neighbors. Another juryman said, that "a majority of the jury were fixed against me anyway." Therefore, in such cases as these, a Governor who rejects and spits upon the earnest prayers of good citizens who are uncorrupted and who do know the real case, and who further — with a grin— spits in the face of the victim, " we have a good Judiciary," is a damned, perjured, cowardly thief, a cringing tool of the gang, and a traitor to his country. The intent of the pardoning power, the world over, is to correct any miscarriage or perversion or prostitution of the courts and of justice, and protect the defenceless. It is not intended to be a mere personal privilege to trade on in the dark; but is a sworn public trust, above and independent of the courts and their machinery and blackleg "bar." And a Gov- ernor is just as much sivorn to attend to and exercise this oath- bound trust, and to do so honestly, as that of any other function of his office. Indeed, it is the most vital and importarf 288 A Pilgrimage in Hell, charge of the office. And what a villain one must be to squelch and prostitute it ! When a victim is gagged and railroaded through a court in charge of black leg shysters, who have betrayed and sold him, WHERE ! OH, WHERE ! IS HIS RECOURSE ? A sane man was shanghaied to the insane asylum, to rob him of his property {quite a common thing). A friend set to work and got him out, and was exposing the job when he was made a victim of a put-up job and shanghaied to the Seatco Bastile. He was informed that he would be released if he would agree to cease from " making such trouble." Another sane man was charged about $2,000 by court lawyers for defending him against one of these jobs. He had valuable property that the gang wanted, and he declared that a man — who was afterwards made Governor — and " other masons " were in a conspiracy to rob him of it. His insanity consisted only in " getting on to the gcaig," and thus defeating the job. So they made several attempts to put him out of the way. But the people of Seattle would wake up and get mad when these job trials were being waged against him ; conse- quently the " good judiciary " would weaken and let him off, except that he must pay the shysters $2,000 per job, and the people of the county also paid about the same amount in court expenses to the brethren. During one of these jobs a brother (who was a minister in the States) had to come out and help protect this victim against the "good judiciary." He was willing to defend him- self and his property against the masons, and armed himself accordingly. But secret thieves being cowards, forced him into the good-to-them-judiciary, where they could rob him at the expense of the 'people and ivithout danger to themselves. A mason plead guilty to grand larceny, forgery and rob- bery, and was indicted on several other charges also ; the extent of which in the aggregate amounted to Ji/ty -three years in the penitentiary, and was sentenced to Seatco for ttvo years. And, moreover, he was secretly pardoned before he arrived at the prison. The brotherly press stated that he " was serving out his time" there, and while the press was lying /or the How TO KuN A Keform Prison. 289 guUiy brother, it was also lying against good citizens who were left to languish unheard and undefended. Two other old offenders were convicted of an attempt to wreck a passenger train. They got two and two and a half years, and were soon pardoned out. One of them was con- victed twice afterward, and was soon pardoned each time ; his father was a mason. Another who had been arrested nineteen (19) times for grand larceny, and had stolen stock, by his word, " ever since he was big enough to ride a horse," got two years and was pardoned ; was convicted again and again pardoned — his father was a mason. Another old offender plead guilty to horse-stealing, got one year and was pardoned before coming to the prison — his father was a mason. A ring official plead guilty to embezzlement, and was pardoned before he saw the prison — he being a mason. Indeed, the masons and odd-fellows have plundered the treasuries of many of the counties of the territory with impunity — the judiciary being very good to them. Meanwhile, others of them were murdering people in cold blood, and committing all manner of other crimes, but the judiciary and ring press being " good " to them they went un- punished. As example in point — in brief from the press. "MuKDER Most Foul." [^BlanJc\ slays his bretver Adam G . Two pistol sJiots. The murderer in custody. " Going into the brewery yard we found Adam G lying on his back ; the blood was streaming from a pistol wound between the shoulders ; and the right eye had been pierced with another bullet. The assistant brewer said, "I heard two pistol shots, and ran up and found [Blank] had shot his head brewer." "Adam G threatened to attack and sue [Blank] if he would not pay him the .S50 due him ; Adam G quit a week ago. " The Sheriff proceeded to [Blanks] residence accompanied by the editor. As they reached the portico [Blank] was sitting in a chair, and extended his hand to the editor and greeted him with the usual salutation, " Hello ! how is de round-up." Soon after the sheriff took [Blank] to the hotel The dying man was 19 290 A Pilgrimage in Hell. tinconscious from the first and died soon after. His appearance as he lay there Avith wet socks and drawers which he had just washed, and still clutched in his hand, showed plainly that he was not in a hostile attitude when slain [and he was unarmed]. We suppose that the hope of [Blank] is the plea of craziness, but his only craziness was long protracted drinking. ' ' He has recently been veiy abusive to his family, and drove his son away, threatening to kill him if he returned," "The probate Judge refused the murderer bail, and he was committed to the care of the sheriff." But he is virtually at large Avithout bail. The peojile are talking very wicked about this thing. They fail to see Avhy a man who sells a drink of liquor to an Indian should be incarcerated in a cell, and one who slays his fellow-man should be allowed his liberty. Considering the popular feeling in this case, it would be best, even as a matter of poUcy, and regardless of duty of officei's to enforce the law, or else worse may come. Later. " Judge [Blank] has granted Blank bail on the showing of his attorneys that he is sick, with the sheriff to ai^i^rove of his bonds." A CAKD. To the Public. — Recently, while on a visit to town, I got into an argument on the merits and demerits of the [Blank] case, and freely asserted that if Blank received an honest trial he would probably pay the penalty of Hfe. A short time afterwards I received a card addressed : Charles Wendler, North Yakima, W. T., I. O. O. F., A. F. and A. M. With the following in hand- writing evidently disguised : " V/e have you spotted, keep quiet, danger ahead, 0008 A. F. and A. M." "With regard to this I will simply say that I have expressed my honest opinion hke a free man, and that I cannot be bull-dozed by any anonymous and threatening cards, and if the writer becomes known to me I will prosecute him to the extent of the law. Respectfully, Chakles Wendler." It is evident that IVIr. Wendler did not know that the "good judiciary " is made up from these gangs, or he would not talk about " prosecuting them " therein, where he would stand no more show for justice, than does a Gentile in Utah, in a Mormon court. INIr. Blank's case was put off for about a year by the "good judiciary," while the people were being blinded and bull-dozed into submission, and after a change or two of venue the brethren indicted him with a sham or " imperfectly drawn " indictment for manslaughter ; then the " good judici- ai-y " went through the farce of a trial (?) on this flawed indict- ment, and the verdict was guilty. So now the "imperfect" How TO Run a Reform Prison. 291 indictment having been good enough for a so-called trial, and its necessary expense to the people and profit to the gang, it' was discovered (?) to be " imperfectly drawn," and the '* good judiciary "quashed it and the verdict accordingly, and reduced, the brother's bail. I quote from a paper : " The case will again be presented to the grand jury at the October term of court, and unless another change of venue is granted the trial will take place at ." The "good judiciary " played another farce or two at the expense of the people and profit to itself. ( >f course, Mr. Blank was " acquitted " — this having been fixed in the dark at the very beginning. Indeed, it was done vi advance when brethren were made officials of the court. In a similar case it was stated by the press that " the case from the begiuuiug will cost the people $35,000. It should not have cost $1,000." Oh ! What a good (?) judiciary ! Anotheb sample case. — "Mr. Klebiu-n was walking along, with or after Mr. [Blank] on tlie street, Kleburn talking rapidly and excitedly, tbough maldng no demonstration to fight ; presently the two parties stopped in front of the . . . office — Klebum with his back to the building and Blank facing him — they being about two feet cilh sudden and terrible penalties if they reveal the facts in any case irhatt^er. I l>f»lieve in an almiglity and merciful providence ; I resorted to that sonri'e, and from that I received courage to divulge the base conduct of those en- trusted with the care of those unfortunate patients. I am only doing what my conscience dictates. The fear of man is not worthy of a serious and candid thought." Geo. W. Sloan. From the Press. — '' Adjudyed Insane". "Two inquests in lunacy were held in the Probate court yesterday. [Blank] and Geo. White were adjudged insane, and committed to the Asylum. In the case of the latter a trial was demanded and granted. In the course of the e^'ideuce "it came out " that White was laboring under the delusion that a conspiracy had been formed against liis Hfe, and he accordingly went armed to the teeth, anti kej^t a constant lookoiit for his supposed enemies. A bowie knife and revolver were taken from his jjerson. Judge [Blank] considered him an unsafe man to be at large, and gave judgment accordingly." [Reflect ! that with control of the courts, press, and secret " asylums " (?), how easy it would be for the gang to thus put a victim out of the way, when, after conspiring against his life and property, they find that he is aware of their job and has armed himself accordingly for his defense. Such conspiracies are often real and riot a " deluLsion " at all — as the remains of so many victims seo'etly murdered, and the wrecks of many homes are witnesses. And this Judge most likely had a pistol in his oivn pocket at the time, to kill somebody. As example of how victims are shanghaied from other States, to be buried alive in living tombs where the " manage- ment is so ' humane ! aiid careful ' (?) to keep them from ' making trouble.' " I give the follo-n-ing from the Press : — "V. ... B. . . . is thrice more sane than her tormentors, and she is unjustly held in the Steilacoom asylum. The idea that she should be held there in solitary confinement to prevent her from exposing a villain, while he is allowed to run at large in this State, is prejjosterous. Every disinterested person who has \isited V B. . . . A\'illingly states that they believe her to be sane. A physician who was called expressly to see her, scorns the idea that she is not in her right mind, and if her friends desire to do her justice, let them comply with the demands of the poor girl, and have her examined thoroughly by two or three physicians, and not entice her away into a strange land, have a secret examination, and then, before she knows what is the matter, have her locked in a cell." 312 A Pilgrimage in Hell. ". .Why was it, that in establishing her insanity, two common laboring men, whom V . . . . B . . . . never saw in her life before — as she states — were brought foi-warcl to testify, when she was examined in Washington Territory as to her sanity ; and who was the physician who conducted that examination ? It would be interesting to the people to know. If they were to go to Steilacoom and there see the tears course do^Ti the cheeks of a poor girl, hear her supijlicatious for deliverance from her enemies, and listen to her sensible talk on all subjects, a visitor might suggest, they would perhaps change their opinion in relation to the matter. V . . . . B. . . . asks only for an honest examination, and 2^ public one ; at the hands of physicians selected by disinterested parties, and she should have it. It will do no harm to her, and will satisfy the public mind." Were it not for the law (heretofore given) forbidding cen- sorship as to her out-going letters, hoiv tvould the ''public mind'" become interested to care about her fate ; she was thus enabled to make her case known, to gain friends, when the press outside of the territory {and gang) agitated and plead her cause. And so the paper {Portland 3Iercury, of September 16, 1883) continues: "As the case now stands, the girl has friends, and is getting them by the score every day, and if Lawyer [Blank] does not want a hornet's nest of public opinion around his ears, he will come to the front, and not only eiJighten the people as to how he managed to get her into the insane asylum, but who jiaid the bills and who gave the medical examination. V. . . . B. . . . from the api^earance of things is unjustly detained at the Steilacoom asylum [with its "hKjyume und careful and thorough " manage- ment !] and if those she is calling on, do not come to her assistance, she wiU go wild with grief and become a maniac to a certainty ^ \^Many are thus MADE INSANE.] [When the legislature met, one of the members, disregard- ing the Governor's message as to the " humane and careful management " of the institution, was instrumental in having the girl released, and she went forthwith to work, setting type in a printing office — so she was not very insane; the "good judiciary " and Governor to the contrary notwithstanding. No prison should ever be entrusted to men who love dark- ness and mystery better than light and truth. No doubt there were, and are at this very time, lohen you are reading this, many innocent and sane victims there, as well as elsewhere ; for brutal keepers could prevent them from making their cases knoivn in spite of the laio to the contrary. And even How TO Run a Eefokm Prison. 313 this Governor was, by a successor, recommended to the legis- lature, for A TRUSTEE TO THIS VERY INSTITUTION. It should h'. made by laiv DEATH ON SIGHT, to any ofl&cial squelching any prisoner's case from the public. And a majori- ty of the voters of any county shoidd he empoiuered hy laiv to re- lease a prisoTier from an asylum ; and two-thirds from any other prison. There are societies for the prevention of cruelty to animals; will not the plaintive wails of human suffering find any willing and earnest ears ? Says the Poi-tland, Oregon, News: — "A prominent man of Chilialis, Wasliington Territory, wlio is m the city, says that many jDersons are sent to the insane asylum at Steilacoom who are as sane as those who commit them. An investigation -would be justice to those who are evidently \dctim8 of official ignorance." [Ignoranx;e (?) is it ? Then let the people judge !] Once again : — "James Balch was discharged from the asylum at Steilacoom on the 18th inst. [1888] on a writ of habeas corpus. He has been an inmate of the asylum for five years, and claims to have been perfectly sane all the time." Expert testimony. — "In the case of a woman, who had been confined two years in the asylum, five experts testified that she was perfectly sane, and that her confinement as a lunatic was an outrage; but those who were interested in keeping her shut up broiaght forward five other experts who swore that she was crazy and unfit to be at large. This illustrates the usual efi'ect of expert testimony by which courts and juries are bewildered and rendered incajiable of rendering just decisions. Under the j^ractice which commonly prevails in the trial of insanity and patent cases, and suits for damages for bodily injury, experts are hired to give an opinion for the side on which they are employed. They are advocates rather than witnesses, and their employment as such is one of the most notorious abuses that now flourish in our courts." As TO THE Territorial University, the Governor, in his message, has never a ivord to say as to the wholesale stealing by the Masons, of the lanils belonging to it, though he asks that the legislature appropriate the people's money to run this looted institution ; and looted with impunity ! And he says, " Five thousand and fifty-seven acres of University lands, as donated by Congress, have not yet been selected." 314 A Pilgrimage in Hell. From the Presx : — " The number of acres (of University lands) still remaining unselected is only 500 or 600, instead of 5,000, as reported by Governor [Links]. Some years ago 75,000 acres of choice timber land were picked out by a commission, and set aside for the benefit of a Univer- sity. The land is all gone -with the exception of some 500 acres, and nothing to show for it, but a modem structure that cost about $10,000; and the land on which it stands goes to other parties should the Uni- versity ever be moved. Would it not be well for the people of the Queen City to investigate this matter and see where the $250,000, now due said Territorial University, have gone ? And yet, in the face of all this, Seattle [and the Governor] persists in asking the legislature for an appropriation each session, to keeji it from being rented out for a lodging house. There has been a mystery hanging over our Territorial University since its found- ation, and it has never been a credit to oiir people and Territory. No doubt, the time will come when an investigation will be called, and the true inwardness and condition be known." [The ring press called this Governor's message a " Great State Paper. " And the secret brethren could afford to do so.] CHAPTER XVII. Prison experience, continued. — My personal efiforts and that of my friends for my release from the Bastile, for some kind of a l)-ial, and for only a respectful hearing. — The result, etc. — "Truth wears no mask, bows at no human shrine, seeks neither place nor applause, she only asks a healing." — Letters of my wife ; governors, judges, and various other persons, and correspondence. — Petitions, recommendations, etc., etc., how they were treated, etc., etc. oOON after mj arrival at Seatco, I addressed a letter to the Governor, giving him a concise statement of my case and situa- tion. I begged him to investigate the matter, and gave him reference as to the same, so that he could do so with very little trouble. I also asked him to state to me what showing and proof and kind of petition he would require to release me. But he would not even answer my letter. He was a Freemason ring man, so what did he care for me or mine, so long as none of the secret brethren complained ? I was bringing into the gang seventy cents a day besides my labor, and my home and family were being ravaged ; which condition of cruel persecution and pillage was entirely satis- factory to his Excellency (?). I had approached him in a very civil, open, frank, honest way, without any mystic signs or middleman of secret intrigue and corruption. I simply wanted a respectful hearing, and for him to correct a brutal, corrupt, and hellish outrage, which by his official oath he was sivorn to do. Yet he spurned me even a hearing ! His time being about out, it was not thought possi- ble that another such as he would be appointed. He had been in office when the infamous, brutal sivindle of a contract job ivas done, and tJie Seatco Bastile established ; therefore it was not to be expected that he had any heart, humanity, or sense of justice. * ' You disdained and renounced viy justice, and turned aside and wounded ^nth a stab my honest pride — to repress the manly swelHng in my breast." As it was thus evident that nothing good could be accom- ( 16) 316 Stuuggung for Liberty. plished with him, my friends delayed getting up petitions until the new Governor would take his seat. This was the " Galli- nipper," who was soon afterwards appointed, but he did not arrive to assume the office until late in October, (1880). Meanwhile and afterwards, my wife and others wrote as follows : "Home, July 26, 1879. Deab Husband : — I received your letter last night ; your atUice is good as it always is, and has always been, and I ■nill try very hard to pro- fit by it ; but there are many disadvantages to contend with, more es- pecially to be obliged to borrow money to save oi;r home from being swept away, and all of us left homeless ; but your attorneys shall not have our home they tried so hard to get ; they, who undertook to defend you, and extorted all of our means, and then gave you away xsithout even an effort to save you. Those whom I have talked to about it say, that "of all the trials they ever heard of, this beats anything yet ; " not even one- half of your witnesses used. It is the most unjust aflfair ever recorded, and if the Governor could only get to know the wltole trulli, you woiild be sent home at once. Neighbor after neighbor speak of the injustice you have to suffer, and say that you were " such a good neighbor " to live by. Even Mr exclaimed, to a company who were discussing the outrage you are suffering : "I am an old man, and can say that I never lived by a more honest, upright man, and kinder neighbor than he, and he was the same to all as he was to me." And, my dear husband, there is not that person Hving who can say ought against you, and tell the truth but do not blame me, George, and when you think of it, "think tender- ly of me, for I am travel-worn — my feet are pierced with many a thorn when dreamless rest is mine, I shall not need the tenderness for which I long to-night. If I should die to-night, you would call to mind — with loving thought some kindly deed my icy hand had wrought — some gentle Avord my frozen lips had said — errands on which my willing feet had sped. The memory of my selfishness and pride, my hasty words, would all be put aside, and I would rest forgiven of all to-night." Effie." "AiigustSth, 1879. .... I just received your letter. Children are all in bed, and I am here all alone to-uight ; would to God I was with you Mr. S. .was here to-day, he says that every one says that your attorneys did not defend you at all ; he says come to him and he will work with and assist me in making the truth known to the Governor. And Mr. B . . . . told me the same. P . . . . and H . . . are very warm friends. I have a good deal of confidence in Mr. S. . . for he is a very smart man and well posted in law, and his advice is the same art of the sample circumstances heretofore shown, germane to the same, and none of them were assailed, but they were squelched. They cut me very short in my testimony ; indeed, they tried to jjrevent me from testifying ai all, and asked me but two questions>, when they dropped me and vii'tuaDy said, " go off now and He doAvn like a good lamb. " (I was being tricked, shanghaied, and cast out of the way, which I will swear to be true, and can further show, if necessary), though they did not disjjute my being there, right on the spot, and on or about there during many years before. Nor did they question my reputed veracity or good name, though I invited them to do so by "every witness put on the stand, by either side, or anyone else, or that I was always a i^eaceable citizen." Tliird point of " the four : " It seems to me that it must be plain, that after Mr. Jumper had failed to swagger and frighten me out of the field, that when he returned to me again in that manner he plainly showed his certain intent to can-y out his declared and now manifested determinaiion to " shoot me out," and per- haps anyone else in his way to this end. But as he had just left un- harmed one of my men without threatening him, and addressed him " as a friend," and had been on more friendly terms with the other by me: Why should he, why would he kill him ? What would be the benefit or advantage to liim had they both left, or were dead, and I had remained ? Except it be to get rid of them as witnesses to more secui'ely murder me ! Could I not get other men, when I had two or three others in my employ all the season, and could and did I not work myself ? Did I not, therefore, hnow that he now knew that — though I might be easily flattered, imposed on, tricked, betrayed, sold, frightened and killed — that / would not be bullied or swaggered from my homage ? There- fore, in the mad, furious desperation of this final attack, must I not reason- ably, instinctively, necessarily and surely be in fear of my life? If not, what in the name of high Heaven would cause such fear ? If not, what then was the matter with me when I was bewildered, dazed, "perfectly -sWld " from the onset of the attack until after all violence ended, and at the time r//7«r the shooting, when I cried out, "for God's sake, help us ! " as both sentences were sworn to by even this friend of Jumper, and added that " «'e were all perfectly wild! " 352 An Epitome of Fiery Struggles. Come now : If law and Justice is the standard, and by the evidence, what was the matter toith me ? Your Excellency, what was the cause and the motive of this state of fear ? Where did it come from ? Who hunted for it ? Who made and fired it ? Wlio drove it in ? Now then, with my pistol clasped in my hand and thus impressed, stamped, fixer), set with fatal fear, and tli us attacked ! What then is the most reasonable, rightful and instinctive motive, impulse, force, current and action to follow ? If not to shoot, to repel the attack, to fight the frightful, fatal danger ? Did I! Did I! Did I ! have a moral, legal, instinctive right to shoot the danger ? If not, why then should I have a pistol in my hand ? If not, why did he hunt and attack me with a loaded and cocked carbine in both hands, with blood in both eyes, in a fuiious rage, and having declared he would "kill me — " shoot me out of the field" — in this very way, time, and place ? In the light of all these estabHshed and tmquestioiied facts, was I not shanghaied ? Or what is the name for it ? Am I not being butchered, or what is it that a farmer can understand ? Fourth point of " the four " — the state of fear. Your Excellency, when one is thus — as is estabHshed I was — in a state of fatal fear, what is the most probable shortest space of time such state can be, that the force, jjower, current of such shooting impulse can exist, be spent, and the brain be impressed with an adverse or diverse thought so that different action can follow, transpire, by the force of reason ? To those who may not have given this subject due thought I would submit, that in such sanguinary attack and conflict, sound and fury, the brain and mind is naturally, necessarily, spontaneously and uncontrollably impressed, stamped, fixed, and spell-boimd with danger for a time or state. That during such state or spell, the reasoning function of the brain (the only accountable motive in man) is suspended or j^arahzed, and he is then, therefore, consequently and unavoidably simply a machine, in the power and control of an engineer, or distinct jjower [instinct) which is in-esponsi- ble to any man. That, therefoi-e, the acts that are done during the time of such state of fear or S2)ell, are the spontaneous, ungovernable acts of artless instinct, nature, and of God. That a person cannot cry and laugh at one and the same time ; that he cannot write with one hand intelHgently on a serious or dangerous sub- ject or event Avith much force of thought, and at the same time write -n-ith the other hand with force of thought on an opposite or a diverse subject, also, that when the mind is firmly set, fixed, or strained on any thought — as of apparent danger — such thought and impression cannot be suddenly dropped, removed, or rubbed out, sufficient for the brain to receive an- other or opposite, or a diverse impression, distinctly impressed or photo- graphed, so that it be jiossible for intelligent opposite or diverse acts to fol- low instantly ; that before such other diflferent acts can be displayed, an Only Argument of my Case ever Made. 353 interval — a space of time — must and does therefore intervene, and that during such interval of time, the motive or reasoning power gets to work and works another, or photographs siich different impression on the then passive brain, oftei' which inteUigent and responsible acts are done, and not before or sooner can they be. That during such interval or inter- mediate space of time, a jjerson is necessai-ily in a state of bewilderment, perplexity, folly, and of instinct, it may be passive or intense, extreme or active, or dazed — according to the force of events transpiring or trans- mitted in the way — and which the force of instinct deals -with iu its own simple, artless, yet most effective way ; that this sjjace of time, from reason to reason and state of fear, in my case, as a matter of established fact as heretofore shown, did extend from the time Jixmper made his final attack and fired, until he was disarmed, or gave up his gun, or the rei^elhng of the at- tack was accompHshed. That, besides being established by personal evidence, the instinct of reason teaches that such time must be greater than the few seconds of the shooting dash. That, therefore, if I committed any crime it was in performing my homage and grasping my pistol. That no standard law (or any other I ever heard of) classes as murder ANY act or acts done in such a state. But that, however, in reason and fact I did not shoot as long as the fatal danger lasted, and that it was a most extremely narrow escape or miss from death that I had from first to last — from the onset untU the gun was surrendered. That none of such reasoning or discussion, as I have roughly cast, was allowed me at my " trial" (?) or to argue or sum up the case, or to use diagrams that were drawn for the occasion. But that to impeach the two prosecution witnesses, each as to some part of their evidence, and to es- tablish the words spoken by Jumper as he filled, was held to be sufficient ; which was done, besides the other evidence as before noted. The declar- ation, " I will kill you ! " was not disputed. That the e-sidence, or rather stuff, by which I had been held without bail or trial, or hearing, was, as before shown, of Jumper's partner [who was not even arrested] and the other prejudiced and interested mtness [who was not prosecuted either] who "didn't care a damn ! what he did with his gun," if, indeed, he did not tirge him on. And who both — as before also shown — were too distant to know as to disputable material points, or parts, or matter ; supposing anything could or should in reason and even justice and law be very material with the indisputable fact, that he was hunting me with a cocked carbine, and murder in his heart! The Grand Jury, as a whole, I beUeve, thought as / did, that my trial would follow immediately, and perhaps, therefore, did not summon a)iy one who was present at the shooting, and knew the fight, or who was un- prejudiced or honest, which criminal negligence doubtless secui'ed my in- dictment for murder anyway, and the succeeding six months of duress, and by which duress, most \'ile, only could my conviction be managed or accomphshed. Because the evidence to be had uji to this time against me, 23 354 An Epitome of Fiery Struggles. ■was really either immaterial or else so tliin, false and rotten, tliat almost any clieap police court lawjer, or any farmer with ability enough to make and hold a comfortable livelihood out of the ground, could — w-ith measurement, a diagi-am, comparison with even its own as originally sworn, and a Httle reasoning — make plain and evident to even a child, and blow it away by any standard of reason, law, justice, or precedent, as per samj^les given. The preponderance of personal evidence to divert the aim of the gun from "my heart" to the man's life by my side, was managed, wrought and wrung out of duress, distress and fear, managed for the purpose by a prac- tice that would make even cannibals blush with shame, and for which the people were taxed and / held as criminally resj^onsible. And this, while I was held in vile duress and in a false light, without even a hearing, and begging for a trial ! A situation that will cause any one's average friends to stampede hke a band of sheeji when one of their number is attacked by a pack of wolves, and which was a part of the play and swindle ; and, furthermore, it was a surprising trick sprung on the stand. The proof of which can be discovered in various articles of this — the only argument, plea, and summing up of iny case ever made, and, of course, it could be done better. [To fix these witnesses, they were indicted for "premeditated andinali- cious murder, hearing which one of them ("Jumper's friend "), frightened with fear, cried out, ' 'Oh, my God ! I am as innocent as a child unborn, but they mil 7umg all of usf " Whereupon he was privately interviewed, a bargain struck, and he was tiirned out. But it required six months longer to fix the other.] The Jury was not chosen by lot and was illegal. And I was tricked {as any producer can he and is in danger of being by the hidden tricks of the trade) into an embarrassed duress and misplaced confidence in which I had no say as to its (the Jury's) construction, or any power against the traitorous tricks jjlayed on and off of the stand to my ruin. But yet part of the jurymen said, that had it not been for my last shot or two, nothing could have been made out of the jjoint, or any of the matter put against me anyway and voted the judgement they did, with the hojje and expecta- tion that the executive would abrogate it. And those of these who had not gone away did presently so petition, and the verdict included a recom- mendation to the court for mercy. But to consider duly withal the rapidity of the shots — that they were of the very same impulse — and the manifest danger all the time until after the shooting, and the state and impulse of fear and the natural inabiHty of witnesses to really know much in such danger and fury, was it not, indeed, at least an inconsiderate, a narrow and most imusual verdict; and was I and those of my fidends who did not stampede, unreasonable, or criminally unwary, when we trustingly believed that as soon as the circumstances and traitorous tricks that induced it were shown to the executive, "tt-ith a fair petition of the peace and home loving citizens of my section and ac- Only Argument of my Case ever Made. 355 quaintance, that my restoration would be very presently granted. And ■when others, who are guilty of a-hne, are so frequently restored in the verge of their sentences, ichy am. I thus discriminated against? And is it not, indeed, hard and oi)pressive and murderous to me in my sore and wiinging distresses and ill health ? That the producing class cannot support a grasping horde of sharks and homewreckers, have time left to keep posted in the ever changing tricks of their trade, keep the iJublic posted as to every job put up against them, and besides have time to make something for themselves or their children. That, therefore, it is unfair and grinding to deny recourse to one of these -s-ictims from their nefarious coil, and without proclamation of warning made before. That I never had any quarrel or trouble with my settled neighbors whatever, except with one, but with a few transient sharks or raiders, who required of me to buy my peace of them at ruinous prices and dishonor, till I had to run, deliver, fight, or die! And as only one in about fifty of the first settlers of the land have suc- ceeded in making, holding and enjoying comfortable homes thereon, per- haps I should have been guided by their experience and been satisfied to live in a tent. I know whereof I speak, only one in about fifty ! Oh, how brave and patriotic (?) for a [secret] clique of men to divert the powers of government, to wreck and devastate a well-earned and happy home! And take the life of a single, solitary, peaceable tiller of the soil, on the strength and sadness of the funeral of one who at least had the sand to undertake it alone. That I have implored your Excellency and his Honor, not to consider the dignity of state or functions of ofiice, or of jjersonal feelings too great, to point out to my understanding any case against m,e, or to show any re- futation of the points I have roughly taken, when all the circumstances are duly considered; or that these are not germane and rightly taken, or as to which, if any, need further proof, explanation or reference ? But have been granted nothing as to the same, except that I ' 'was convicted by a Jury of my countrymen." I have also, throughout, begged for executive mercy (though "the world does turn round"), and ever ready to confess to any guilt or sin, shown to my understanding, or to that of my near or proven friends, and to mend my ways or pursue others entirely different, if such rule be 8ho^\'n to me by which I can hve better, in more jieace and less dishonor, which also have fallen on stony ground, leaving me in the dark and as one in a dream — having been pushed oil' of a high bridge, and though conscious of the fatal fall, yet powerless to combat or avert it, except by a hand in sight but withdra-svn or clinched. Anything as to my statements of my case, etc., that may be too con- cise and suggestive rather than complete and exhaustive, [and requiring a day or two to read it, as is the case when a member of a secret gang is tried,] and may, therefore, (on account of its comparative bre\'ity) not 356 An Epitome of Fiery Struggles. seem plausible to a prejudiced or contracted understanding, function or motive, can be shown therein and wby it is true; as, for example, why, if these things be all ti'ue, did my neighbors and friends permit my op- pression ? Because I did not wail about my trouble nor proclaim it from the housetops or through the press, but kept on my even, peaceful, con- fident course; my relatives were far away, I belonged to no clique or clan, but looked confidently on "every man in the right as a brother " and honesty as honorable. My neighbors and friends are peaceful citi- zens — not sharks or containing the element of mobs — and had trouble and toil enough of their own io'kee-j^ them very busy, and did not think there could be any conviction; naturally thinking that when one had abihty enough to prosper so long and well, where so many others had failed, that he should have sense and character and means enough to take care of himself or to choose proper and safe assistance, if he was right — not sup- posing that their own taxes and government could be turned against him in such a case, and there was dirt cast and thrown into their eyes [by the lying gang] from the outset, through which many could not see clearly. But some, of course, did not care anyway, for they could now catch up in the rugged stiiiggles of life, foolishly shutting their eyes to the fact, that such selfish lack of critical interest [and earnest action'] is just what keeps us eternally ground in the dirt; and of their turn to come to feel it, in one toay or another— ffty chances to one! But my neighbors did volunteer much help, as much of the evidence, etc. , shows, and ofi'ered more of such assistance. I have no complaint against my neighbors and they have none against me, while there are some whose troubles "wdll ever be mine also. But the single fact, that the ground and portion of the field where the tragedy occurred was never measured, shows how sadly, indeed, they mis- judged my ability in choosing honest assistance, though they would not oppress me on account of my ignorance. The guess of the two interested, prejudiced, distant, etc., prosecution witnesses alone was sought and taken as to their distance off from the shooting. One was on one side of that body of plowed ground and the other about opposite and some distance outside of the fence, and who guessed at the distance from the shooting as about half that of the fonner, who piit his distance at 140 yards. Now there was an Tinprejudiced man i)resent at this pretense of a trial who, whUe in my employ, plowed that ground, and he guessed this dis- tance, while he was even stepping it so much, to be "a quarter of a mile," 440 yards, (instead of "210" as put and accepted), but which (440 yards), however, was about 100 yards too great; but had it not been deemed by others [secretly] against me, that "they had placed themselves fai* enough out of distance" and reason, with the other circumstances and imijeach- ment against them, then the one quarter of a mile (440 yai'ds) would have been his guess evidence as to the same, although subpoenaed by the pro- Only Argument of my Case ever Made. 357 secution in their raking the countrv^ for threats from me — as though I would not have the right to defend myself on my own home anyway — (I never had a quarrel with any man in my employ, nor did I "murder" any of them, nor had I threatened Juniper with more than legal process to them, nor would any one of them swear that I had. This one swore, that he "plowed about 40 acres for me there," and he jjlowed less days than others had for me in breaking this field, and with the same four-horse team. Yet, they would not let any of these testify as to the distances. And I had hauled and laid into fence nearly every pannel of fence across and about there and had worked on this land in this and other ways for years, and had it partly fenced before it was sui-s-eyed by the Government, so that / could have guessed, as knowingly as anybody, if allowed ; had not the eWdence of these two witnesses [don't you forget it] by whom my indictment and near ten months of vile duress was cast and my con- viction (?) fixed, put uj), secured — been deemed to be already abun- dantly refuted, ' ' so that my knowledge as to the fight and trouble and distances would be superfluous." Didn't want me to testify at all! [Any one who insinuates that I was honestly defended or had any real tri'd, is a liar, a thief and a cur, and a traitor at hea7-t.] A portion of these rails I bought of Jumper himself in the woods, for this expressed purj^ose, and afterwards when he had started in to jump the land, he admitted to me m the presence of others, in these, his own words, that "no man has ever treated me better than you have." This was a quarter section of school land destitute of water (so as to be of little or no value as a home by itself) and adjoining my other land. I had it leased in due form, besides first improvements, and had it en- closed — which was fn-o points more than the law required. Jumper's pre- text was that certain sharks had told him to " sail in," that the statute by which such lands had, was and is being taken and held (in nearly every county of the territory) was void. But as it (the law) had not been abro- gated by the courts, and as aU of the statutes are flawed for to be questioned for a price, I therefore required, and Avas willing to contend for some- thing more ofiicial than his word or other tattle, and then he said he " would give me an ounce of lead." And I should have taken it, should I ? But another gentleman had been trying to jump another portion of my home to which I had for years a United States patent, he going into an- other field and took possession of my springs and only water — some one hundred and fifty (150) yards AWthin a well marked government Hne on deeded land I had lived and pioneered on for years when my settlement was a subject of ridicule and jest — and denied me even water necessary for my domestic use and that of neighbors who were in a measure dependent on the same, and this after I was out over S150 to accommodate him or in buying my peace. He told me " if I wanted water, to dig for it," and I did not "murder " him, or arm myself in any way, because he only used a half dozen men to take possession with — no carbine. I vainly jilead to 358 An Epitome of Fieey Struggles. him for several weeks for only enoiigli Avater for domestic use, and while we were carrying it near one-quarter of a mile on his account ; but I finally got very tired and ashamed of myself ; then I told the gentleman to take a turn as water carrier himself . He did not hke it, and, of course, I was in his way then, and so he said ' ' he would help Mr. Jumper Tvith his job." I was wiUing to divide up occasionally -nith siich influential gentle- men so that they would permit me to live in their country, but they fre- quently want to take all an " idiotic haymaker " has, to diA'ide it up them- selves. And, of course, if the Government and i^ress and false friends back them, they can get away with it every time, and butcher anybody in the way. Although being aware that the courts do not often defend homes without at least mortgaging them into the ground, yet I implored these gentlemen, that such was the more civilized and advanced method of get- ting them, and if they wanted mine, to take it in that way, that " it would look better anyhow and I wanted to see how it was done ; " but to insti- tute suits and divide the stock in that way Avould be too tedious for them, they Avanted it then, or I must die ! Must I? These gentlemen were [close] friends and talked to me of each other, and one of them did show me "how it is done," but it was on the gravity of the other one''s funeral. It was he with his men and but two or three others of his friends that was the power at the throne, at which I was first held or shanghaied; he had a shot-gun and others of them were in hke manner armed, and he did "do it with a grin." It was afterwards said [and is yetj that a quart of whiskey added that night would have been my death, together with that of the only near witnesses to their defeat the day before ; but others would have bitten the dust also. This is the little midnight mob noted at the outset; this is the "serious" grave (?) force that prosectited and hunted me to the grave, and which practice is being justified by my blood. This is the "brave" (?), patriotic (?), virtuous (?) element "that is thus being venerated and backed ! " Is there no office without the reach of such power ? no official heart but what is mellow to such "serious" (?) jirayers, and hardened to the sons of honorable toil ? And I have written as truly as Bancroft could write this history, but it is no pleasure for me to wi-ite it, and I am suffering because it is triae. If your Excellency would grant me but another chance to hve against the forty-nine, then jjerniit me to swear to this epitome and only discussion of my case, by the sentence, by sections, or as a whole, as far as I j^retend to know; stand what is left of me on but the partial level of a haggled, re- stored victim, and if any one would face me with a denial, I can be tried by another "jury of my countrymen " for perjury, and in which event, if it be a'iminals joxir Excellency wants, they can be foiand, though I be not convicted any more. The good citizens of my section, if your Excellency j^lease, may be Only Argument of my Case ever Made. 359 swayed to trust in men who always have and will tap their granaries to the bottom ; but an angel from Heaven could not make them believe that they have not lost the grain, or that the covu-ts are perfection, infallible, and mercy a sin. With all possible humility, and respect and courtesy, I submit for decent consideration, whether it is plainly and by good authority shown that instead of the flock of crows, so immense as to darken the sun of heaven against me, that in truth there never was even a single, solitary little blackbird ; and that this storm was put VLp for jjlunder and crime in the cowardly, sneaking, traitorous, deadly guise of friendship and of justice. And by which I have been plundered of my Hberty and life, of my family, of my hard and well earned home and herds, and my children of their rightful care and heritage. And this by gentlemen who would rob orphan children of their last chicken and their doll, cast them in prison to hide their ciime, and would sell their Sa-sdour and their souls for a httle money — these cut-throats and sharks ! And on their account I must be butch- ered ! 3Iusl I? Youi- Excellency seems to have forgotten — it being so long ago — that not- withstanding my case ha-vdng not been fully and faii-ly made known to the pubUc, that yet my restoration has long since been seriously petitioned for by my neighbors — with scarcely exception for several miles about me — with a goodly and representative jjortion of the other good citizens of my coiiuties and range, and with a portion of that " jury of my countrymen " that so hajjlessly "convicted" (?) me, and this without any remonstrance from any quarter or person — at least publicly or sqiiarelif done. And that a goodly i^ortion of these are Christian men, of manly honor and fine feel- ings, and comj^rise the best elements of society ; men who would not chng to a legal mistake or fiction if they only half know it, if it desecrates a fundamental and beautiful truth, or the sacred sentiment of charity. Your Excellency, all of these petitioners know miich as to the struggles in earning and holding a home and livehhood in their country, of courts and sharks, whom artless men cannot know without experience, of my trouble and distress, and they know me, I think, to a man, as a citizen, husband, father, and somewhat as an official, and as a neighbor, not as perfection, oh, no ; but they are not afraid I would "murder" anybody, or willingly bring sorrow to any fireside. These good citizens pray to your Excellency that I be no longer held as a depraved criminal ! Are their prayers to avail me nothing ? Will siich a force of prayer not phase the executive heart and find therein a single spark of mercy ? Your Excellency could also discover among these petitions men who at the outset of my trouble were active in my downfall, they would give me a whkl in the way of business, they would fight me when I could fight them in return ; but when they had won the contest, they would not oppress me to the death, and have prayed that your Excellency do not. Of such as they I never wailed, to such I can cherish no hatred. 360 An Epitome of Fiery Struggles. And I am lotli to open sores that miglit otherwise be healed, and re- frain from doing so except so far as my situation comj)els, and "svhieh I think your Excellency might consider. Are the prayers of these also to be disdained ? I would also beg to remind your Excellency of an additional diisty petition, comiJosed as it is of re^jresentative men of exalted order in my native state, including a Supreme Judge of renowned talents. That these petitioners also know me in a manner, and consider my word alone good enough for them to base their action on, and they know what was sworn to against me. That to imjDose on and stultify these j)etitioners I would necessarily be a consummated villain, bom, bred, and practiced ; and to presume that they would impose on or stultify your Excellency, wotild not be done by those who know them well. It is hard and mortifying to think or know that the prayers of such men — who would extend to me from afar a helping hand, though in trouble and stigmatized as a felon — glance or bound to the gi'ound. But though your Excellency may consider all of the ardent prayers in my behalf as if but a casual breeze, and me as a vicious animal, fit only for the yoke and the slaughter, and my wife and children as but suitable victims and game for depravity ; yet, thank God, those of my kind (and the kind are numerous) who know me and my trouble well, do not so consider the matter ; thoiagh they be powerless to avail me anything but fruitless, though ardent prayers. His Honor — though not famed for excessive mercy, and with the dis- cord of such position, and also Avhile not fully knowing my case — has said that had the literal statiite permitted it under the verdict, he would have made my sentence five years instead of ten, and that he would not oppose my pardon at any time before. That if, therefore, I have any rights whatever any more, but to sufifer, and quiver, and die ; and it be only a rightful proposition to consider ten years as but a technical sentence, and five as the moral orsj^irit of the judg- ment against me, and that I am by right entitled to the time I suffered in jail, begging for a trial ; and the abatement of time provided by law for good conduct, applied on such judgment, then I will in October ne.vt have fulfilled the full terms of s^ich judgment. And if this is done, then therefore I most respectfully submit if your Excellency will not then have entirely rejected all of the manifest prayers, showings, and proofs, so earnestly, honestly and humbly offered for executive clemency. And that any- thing beyond would be simj^ly enforcing a hard, unusual, unintended, technical, distressing, unlawfial swindle of a verdict; made out of fixed evidence, sprung on duress without a moments warning or recourse, and ground out in part by about 13 months of false, pernicious, dastardly im- prisonment and fear, fixed up and plotted for the purpose. And I must be butchered in order to stuff such practice down the throat of the pubhc Only Argument of my Case ever Made. 361 as "honorable" (?) must 17 That sharks and ciit-throats may fatten on human misery and blood. That the single germane, indisputable fact, that Jumper w as hunting me on mv home, "with a cocked carbine in both hands, wdth murder in his heart, and having declared to me and to others that " he -would do so and kill me" on the very occasion, makes e\ddent of itself that his death was only a pretext and blind used by unconvicted, criminal sharks, to use the power and taxes and j^rotection of government to suck my blood. And had these blood-suckers been in like manner and intent with Jumper at the front and I had killed them all, would it have been murder ? Or am I and my whole tribe savages or fools, indeed ? Though always loth to bewail my troubles with or to men, yet, I owe it to myself, to my children and my kind, to tlms submit my case at this late day for public as well as executive consideration, as I am still being haggled in the deadly giiise of friendshii> and of justice, till some of my old friends would hardly know me now; and my name and pride which before was not considered bad, to take alone in the way of business any- way, is being haggled too. And I have been choked and suppressed and oppressed, and betrayed and sold, till this is but a death rattle. But if any- thing in conflict with, or denial of any of my averiments be embraced and then intelligently and honestly sifted, pressed and hammered, it wall fly in burned fragments, and no point be made that -will jiierce or turn any I have f»hown in my case or character. And let any one who would care to know ihe truth as to my trouble know it now and not forget it, as is valu- ed alJ that is most dear and sacred and beautiful to man. Very truly, Geo. W. France." CHAPTER XIX. Prison experience concluded. — Efforts to get my case before tlie Supreme Court. — Copious extracts from my diaiy kept in prison. — "Consider- ing my case."— "Seeing about it, " etc. , etc. — My appeals to Legis- latures, tlie President, Congi'ess, etc.- — How changes in Governors, etc., are discussed by prisoners. — Prisoners that were shanghaied and never co7ivicted.—E.oyv I established my good conduct against the lying gang. — The " good Judiciary. " — Efforts of and for other prisoners and results. — Eemoval to Walla Walla. — My release, etc. 1 HE Governor treated the epitome, etc., of tlie foregoing chapter just as he had all other communications in my behalf, because he was able to squelch it from the people, of whom he said, " they make great clamor over pardoning." He was dead to every generous or just emotion and every elevated senti- ment. So then I made an effort with the " good Judiciary " to grant me some kind of a trial wherein I could be defended or defend myself, and in accordance with the same wrote the following letter : "Seatco, Thurston Co., W. T., June 21st, 1882. Hon. S. C. Wingard: I hereby apj^ly to your Honor for a new trial. I can show ten times more than the reasons usually deemed sufficient for other men. The sub- stance of which are that there is not, and never was, any real case of crime against me, and there was and is an abundance of proof to estabUsh be- yond disjiute my entire innocence of any crime. That I simjjly killed an assassin, who was hunting me like a wild beast on my own home, with a cocked carbine in both hands and declared murder in his heart; that I shot only after he had made the attack and fired the first shot, and while he was trying to kill me with his gun again cocked; that I thus defended my life by every other right, besides following the advice, counsel and direction of a "court of justice"; that my commitment to jail was bulldozed by a little armed gang in the middle of the night, (which gang had previously tried to jump another portion of my home, to which I had a U. S. patent) they having a shyster "lawyer" for ^clerk and to fix up the proceedings, who was also their prosecuting attorney, and I was not permitted any defense. That when in duress, my counsel betrayed or sold me, kept me m jail for over nine months, AvhUe they helped to manage my conviction, not- withstanding you had declared a wiUingness to give me an im- (362) My Kelease. 363 mediate trial, or examination, Avliicli slioiUd have ended my trouble. That they extorted my means of defense by the most base, false pretenses, and refused to be discharged when I had found them out. ThatC. . exjiressed ^ith me at court great surprise at the trick sj^rung on the stand (that the gun Avas aimed at another), when it transj^ired that he had before granted this in his charge for you that was rejected. That he had preAiously de- clared to me, that he "had great influence with the court, that it loved him though he despised it, and that he had Avritten a charge for it which would be the charge to the Jury, and under which I must be acquitted, so it Avould be sujjerfluous to make out or show all of my case," or to hammer to pieces and destroy (as could be done) all that was sworn against me. All of which foregoing I will swear to and can give a bill of particulars as to the same, as conclusive as any similar victim ever can under the same circumstances and duress. If there is any recourse for such as me in the courts of this country, I want to find it; and I most respectfully and courteously hereby apply to you to assist me in doing so. Geo. W. France." I also applied to others and to the Chief Justice of the Supreme court, only to find it to be so exclusive and high- priced and prostituted that to get there I would have to pave the way and by-ways with gold in quantities which, by this time, I had not. Could anarchy be any worse condition for the common people ? Some months after the delivery of my epitome to the Gov- ernor, he was at the bastile and I took occasion to spread out a copy of it on a table before him, and urged him " to point out a single move, intent or act in my conduct as to the fight, or any- where in the trouble that was bad, and to say what more he required ? " To which he replied in the presence of others (which I have the documents to prove), " Of course, France, you have a very strong case ; I cannot discuss it with you, but I will let you go on the recommendation or favorable report of the Judge." To which I replied, " You know. Governor, that Judge Win- gard will not recommend or solicit any man's pardon." "But," he replied, " I do not require that ; you get only Sb/avoraUe 7'e- port or word from him and I ivill let you go" I then asked him if he knew Mr. N . . , ex-president of the council, and " whether he would consider him a reliable man ? " 364 Extracts from Diary Kept in Prison. to whicli he replied that he " did know him and considered him very reliable, indeed." I asked him to " publish my case and argument (epitome) and see if anyone could be found who would assail it or discuss it with me." No reply. I then sug- gested that " he refer the question of pardon to any three ministers," he replied he "guessed we could get along without preachers." (The one who came there said he "would have done just as I did, by the evidence.") I then wrote to Mr. N. . stating to him what the Governor had promised, and requested him to see the Judge accordingly, to which . Mr. N . . replied as follows directed to me : "Dayton, W. T., October 10th, 1882. Mr. Wm. B. . [who was the chief contractor of the bastile.] Sik: — Yon will do me a favor to assist Geo. W. France to get a jjardon. I know he has paid the i^enalty of the crime, which he was imj^risoned for. Therefore, it being justice to the man and the laws, I ask that yon see the Governor and state the case to him. Judge Wingard thinks that France is entitled to a pardon. Yours truly, K. G. NEWIiAND." Also this to me : Datton, W. T., Oct. 10th, 1882. I have received yours of the 7th, inst., and also one before that, I should have answered, but Judge Wingard was away at the time. I spoke to him last Saturday; he said, he was wilHng that you should have an unconditional pardon now, and I hope the Governor will grant you an unconditional pardon immediately. Every one here that knows anything of your case exj^resses a desire to have yon pardoned. So the Governor need not be afraid that the public opinion is opposed to youi- being pardoned out of prison. Y'^ours truly, E. G. Newland." Not hearing from this effort, I addressed the Governor as follows: "Seatco, Oct. 26th, 1882. To his Excellency: — [Bill Links.] I herewith send your Excellency copies of letters from the Hon. E. G. Newland, transmitting Judge Wingard's substantial recommendation for my pardon. BeHeving that this fulfills your Excellency's requirements and trusting that you will not be unmindful of your promise, I, therefore, have sent for means to reach the WTeck of my home and family. I presume this matter has been presented to you by Mr. B . . , as he My Kelease. 365 has promised to do so, and "lend all the assistance in procuring mj release that hes in his jjower," but I would not neglect any portion of dihgeace, duty or l}ri^•ilege in such a vital matter to me and mine. I have said that I was "svilling to be obligated to show and establish to the satisfaction of the Judge, that there was not even the shadow of any true case of crime against me, and I still court the oiJiJortunity to do so. Veiy resijectfully, Geo. W. France. Copy. Seatco, W. T., November 24th, 1882. Deak Sister: — Yours of the 8th, inst., just received, -svith $25; but my pardon is still -w-ithheld, notwithstanding the Judge's substantial recom- mendation and the Governor's promise that this would effect my release. Geo. W. France. " From my Prison Diary. "Jan. 20th, 1883. — Gov. [Links] here. He came to me, sjioke and extended his hand very cordially; examined the medicine I was taking (digitalis, iron and bismuth), noted my condition, saying: "you are cer- tainly quite unwell," etc., and that he " icoukl see me again before he left.'" But he did not, and left without me getting anything out of him as to my release and the Judge's substantial recommendation. He is on his way to the States." So I again appealed to the Judge, as follows : "Seatco, W. T., March 1st, 1883. The Hon. S. C. "Wingard. — I beg your Honor to consider that in August next, without any rebatement (and to concede to me the time I lav in jail begging for a trial), I will have suflfered five years of most terrible imijrisonment and distress; that my health is impaired, and that my home, that I toiled the best years of my hfe to make, my means of Hvelihood, family and affairs are in a most encumbered and deplorable condition, be- yond my control. That, as I am jilaced, I cannot attend to and protect anything, and friends who would help me declare their inability to do so, and that I am "already ruined ! " They have suggested that I take certain action in the matter, but find that my duress is such that I cannot ac- compUsh anything, nor to even communicate with my wife and children to know definitely the jDroper mode to pursue. And the breach is made wider, the intriguing coil drawn tighter, and the ravage more ruinous every day and hour. I beg your Honor to consider that I have ever earnestly plead and affirmed that there was in truth never a stronger case of self- defense, and that there was and is indisijutable jjroof to establish this be- yond fair question, and all else that I have claimed. And I have continu- ally, from the day of the tragedy, plead and begged for an opportunity to so establish it. But instead of granting this right I am condemned to destruction, with no effective recourse, except through your Honor's more earnest endeavor. If you are loth to otherwise effect my release now, under 366 Extracts from Diary Kept in Prison. sucii -sdtal and critical circumstances and misfortune — far reaching as they be — or if discredit as to the truth of anything I have uttered be in the way, then I beg that you recommend and urge my release on condition that I make each and every assertion that I have made and do make as to any phase of my case, situation, condition and trouble, good and estabhshed Avithin a given time to your Honor's satisfaction, and to be held in reason- able restraint or obhgation till the same be done. Grateful for favors done, I implore you to consider well the full meaning of every Avord here- in uttered, and that I am "willing to stake Avhat is left of my life and fortune on the truthfulness of my assertions, and that time and events have already proven much that was considered as with a sneer. Most respectfully, and in great distress Geo. W. France." March 6ik, 1883. — Note from sister M. J., in the States, dated FeVy 75th, that "they were telegraphing to find the Governor to interview him, etc." March 18th. — Received letter from M. J., at Trenton, N. J., where they were to see the Governor, who had just left very suddenly, but inter- views his son and interests other parties, so that they are confident I "lotVZ he released in a inonth." Date of letter, MarcJi 1st. Marcli20th. — Received the following terms for my release, in the name of " the people " (?) (that had really declared that they were unanimous for my restoration) which I will give as a fair example of several such propositions : "PoMEROY, Garfield Co., W. T., March 8th, 1883. G. W. France, Seatco, W. T. Dear Sir: — I write to you to ask what is the least you will take for a deed to your homestead This is private between us. I have been feeling the pulse of the "people " and trying in every way to see what chance there is for you to be released. I know of only one way possible, and that is for you to have a few hundred dollars. Would communicate the facts, if I knew how to get them to you privately. It is no illegal plan,' but the best plans are sometimes frustrated by too many knowing them. Let me hear from you at once, and the least you Avill take in cash to sign a deed to the land named. Would you give it to get out honorably, if it could not be effected for less ? Hoping you are in health, I remain yours, Oh, no ! this "people'' (?) ("who clamor") would not rob or ravage, or murder anybody. They would only give them " a My Kelease. 367 fair and unprejudiced trial," (?) torture, betray, deceive and loot them of all — everything they possess ! And do it so " legal- ly " and so " honorably " (?) while to sand-bag a man, take only $9 and a silver watch and let him go on home, is made a crime ! " Oh, consistency, thou art a jewel." But think of the ex- cursion tickets, the segars and whiskey and newspaper puffs this "people " (?) would enjoy out of so many years of toil and honest endeavor ! Oh ! my " people ! " Would you, oh, would you, so "legally" and so "honorably'' picnic in my miserable ruin, or " clamor " that I die ? Is this the price of liberty ? No ! not even that, but to still toil on for another such picnic to the gang. "For THIS his sioord the midnight ruffian draws; For THIS the licensed murderer spurns the laws. Rears his proud head diminish' d justice o'er. His trophies wat'ring with a brother's gore.'^ " The dagger, hid in honors specious guise." March 24th. — Governor [Links] here. Was distant and cold, said, "he knew my case as well or better than I did, and if he wanted to talk any more to me about it, he wonld let me know." " There was a laughing devil in his sneer." He would "S7nile and smile, while secret icounds did bleed beneath mt cloaTc. " Perhaps I had better deliver up my homestead, my livelihood, so many years of honest toil, and take to the road. Curse them,, if I do ! " Raised the fire of vengeance in the heart.'' But how do I know, but they would take the price and hold me all the same, or put me in the ground to hide their crimes, as no secukitt is held out that I loould not yet be held. ' ' Some men have so little sense of honor, that they do not regard an oath as to their duty, even in the discharge of official duty. He who kicks at this, his conscience stings and is the man." March 20th. — Mr. B. . came to see me; said, " there was no public sentiment against me whatever, and that the people wanted me out, except members of the gang," and said he " would see the devils in hell before he would give them a dollar more." But /was to be in hell while they were in clover. April 18th. — Received letter from M. J., that they had been again to New Jersey and "were assured by the Governor's son, that lie would soon accomplish my release," etc. 368 Extracts from Diary Kept in Prison. "Oh, labor to keep aKve in your breast that little spark of celestial fire, called conscience. " As to his Excellency's veracity: lie writes as follows to a sister in the States : " Tekkitoky of Washington. — Executive Department. Olympia, March 30th, 1883. Dear Madam : — I did not receive your note desiring to see me until after I reached this place. My son, Dr. [Links] , Jr., wrote to me. I have given much investigation to the case of Mr. France, and regret to inform you, that it was a much more aggi-avated case of mortal shooting than, perhaps, you know of. His case was fairly tried and the Judge considers the j^enalty not excessive. I must state reluctantly to you, that I have but little consideration for any person who takes human life, except in clear cases of self-defense. I am yours truly, [Bill Links.]" To which she replies as follows : Governor [Liaks]. — Dear Sir: — Yours of the 30th of March was duly received and its most mysterious contents sadly read, and to our great sorrow not favorable to my brother's release. Wliy is it that Judge Wingard acts so strangely in this matter? He certainly has to others said plainly that he would not oppose his pardon, besides the petition for his release was signed by almost the whole community His action seems so strange. Did you not long ago receive a letter transmitting Judge Wingard's substantial recommendation for his pardon ? The clique who set [Jumper] up, to get brother in trouble, was gov- erned by no principle or feeling but those which avarice and unprincipled ambition inspire, and are prospeiing on brother's hard earned property; and it is to their interest to keep him imprisoned as long as possible, so that he may have nothing left with which to redress his wrongs. I can very easily see how impossible it is for one occupying the positon of Governor, to understand the workings of so deep laid a plot. But should any man attack another, as he was attacked, on his own home, while quiet- ly engaged with his emjiloyees sowing wheat, in this State most surely the verdict would he justifiable. Time wiU convince you, honored sir, of the innocence of any crime, save of the clique and [Jumper] their agent. My dear brother is losing his health and suffering more than tongue can tell, and innocent as yot;, sir, or /of any crime, save that of defending his own life; and all he needs, is a chance to show that there was not even a shadow of any true case of crime against him, and he courts the op- jjortunity. My Eelease. 369 The Jury was composed of au element that we would all be very slow in intrusting so important a case. Some men have no sense of honor and no regard for their oath. I confess myself, that I would have very little consideration for any person who takes human life, except in clear cases of self-defense, and I am sure that this was such a case M.J." May 12th, 1883. — Keceive word from G. H. . . that he will "arith the sanction and in coitj unction with Judge Wingard'^ endeavor to get me released. [Wbicli is tlie opposite of his Excellency's statement, that *' the Judge considers the sentence not excessive;" so one or the other evidently lies ; or else the Judge is " strange," indeed,] ' ' Calumny is often added to oppression, if but /or the sake of justifying it. " But I have a few friends left through all such reports of " the lying gang," and some of them urge the " good Judge " to recommend my release direct to the Governor, and to establish who it is that is such a cold-blooded, villainous, brutal, cow- ardly, unmitigated liar, and he replies as follows : " Walla Walla, W. T., June 1st, 1883. His Excellency [Bill Links] , Governor. Sik: — George W. France, now in the Ter. penitentiary laider sen- tence for murder in the second degree, has served imprisonm,ent as long as I would have sentenced him to undergo, had the law allowed a less sentence than I imposed. Very respectfully, S. C. WiNGARD, Judge." The foregoing document is considered by other Governors to be alone recommendation enough to release prisoners, with nothing else done in their behalf. One Governor (Knott) de- clared in his inaugural address that he would grant pardons or commute sentences " only when the court is satisfied that the sentence is unjust." And to hold me longer with this staring him in the face was to rob and torture me on the flimsy pretext of a mere tech- nical sentence that had been thus abrogated by the " good Judge." The Governor was so guilty that he would not face me any more to talk, or make any reply to this recommendation ; he heeded it no more than he had the other. He would not even criticise or make objection to it. The question now was " what excuse would he invent next to spit at my stand-by friends, to injure me, and yet not aggravate them so they would get mad 24 370 Extracts feom Diaky Kept in Prison. and howl out his brutal and mysterious conduct to the public ? " So they and I were always being advised to " keep still" But / could get mad and still be damned ; for could they not squelch my letters, etc., and thus keep me in the dark, and the truth hid from the people who " clamor ? " This censorship over a prisoiier's correspondence should he killed I July Stli. — "R. F. . . and J. . . jumped again." July 10th.—'' T. . . and F. . . jumped." And who could honestly blame them to jump from such a bell and such a Governor? Why should they be in prison and the lying gang in clover? They had a right -by the higher law of Heaven — to wade over the carcasses of such as would hold them there. July 13/h. — S. . . came here from Dayton; brought word from B. . . that "he was going to work to get me out," etc. July 23rd. — Get note ["underground"] from a friend, as follows: " Cop^"^ of Judge W. 's recommendation received; all right. Be patient. Your release will surely come ere long from the Governor." We had to smuggle, when we could, such vital papers, letters and life-or-death business — out and in the bastile — so they would not be squelched by the lackeys of the gang. July 29th. — I get the following : " We have just returned from Tren- ton agam; 71010 viake your calculations to be released very soon." " Oh, what a tangled web we weave, Whene'er we practise to deceive! " Aug. Sill. — Received letter from Mr. W. . . [It was registered, so I got it; but, thoTigh he wrote several others, I did not get any of them.] He says, that " Judge B. . . is working for my release; had Avritten to the Gov- ernor and to Judge Wingard; that he was personally acquainted with them both, and that he would go and see the Governor and urge my release; and they were 'very confident 0/ success.' Also, that my wife was working for my release and thought it so veiy strange, I did not get her letters." — [I had written a dozen letters to her without receiving any reply.] It afterwards transpired that his Excellency next invented for an excuse to still hold on to me ; not that he " was consider- ing my case," nor "that it was not yet time to consider it," nor that " the people would clamor," nor that " I had had a fair trial by an unprejudiced jury and a "good Judge," nor that My Eelease. 371 "my case was such an aggravated one," nor yet that "the (jood Judge did not consider the sentence excessive," because all of these excuses were now worn out and known to my friends to he, false pretexts, and he knew that they knew them thus to be. But as his conduct had not made my friends desperate or dangerous to him, but only disgusted and sick, and as he was keeping me choked down (I " must keep quiet ! ") he could therefore feed them most anything to keep them sick and stilly while I luas dying in the agony of suspense and of despair. So he spit this rot into the face of Judge B . . and others, that my " coiuiuct loas very, very bad. " Great God ! Is a man supposed to have an?/ "conduct" after so many years of cruel torture, and ravage, and betrayal, and lying deceit ? Deluded, deceived, oppressed, trifled with, and murdered in a living tomb ? " Oh judgement tliou (trifled to brviish beasts, And men have lost their reason.'" And if he still lives and has some kind of "conduct " left is he to blame ? And yet, during this very time the chief prison officials were promising to recommend my pardon to the Governor " if he would but request it of them." And neither they or the Governor had any charge against my conduct to make to my face. About this time a friend told them that "it was a G — d d d brutal outrage for them to hold on to me as they did." Nor did they dispute or discuss the matter with him either, though he put it to them in their own language. Aug. l-5th. — Received the foUo^Adng from the States: "Judge K. . . is hourly expecting an answer by telegrajjh from the Governor." "Not so your friend — with grief oppressed I see That jjeace, which smiles on many, frown on me." Sept. 13th. — "So far we can hear nothing from the Governor. We are doing everything that can be done, to get him to act at once." Sept. 2 ■5th. — "We are still in suspense. Judge R. . . and are doing all in their poicer" (It takes a lot of killing, exp)ensive experience and a long time for outsiders to learn the mystic, traitorous ways of a secret gang.) 372 EXTBACTS FROM DiARY KePT IN PrISON. Then the Governor's son wrote to a sister as follows : "Tkenton, N. J., Oct. 2nd, 1883. .-. .My father wrote me in reference to your brother, and I do not think, from the tenor of his letter, that he is very favor- able towards his jjardon. I anticipate going to "Washington Territory about November 1st. Please "WTite to me and give me your brother's full name, I have for- gotten it. Yours very truly, [Bill Links], Jr." [And so, even he had to judge by the mei'e " te7io7' " of the Governor's letter, as to what he would do.] October 1st. — Legislature met, and reports come that some of the members and others are determined to secure my re- lease ; whereupon the " doctor-Governor-and-the-law " ex- claimed to a number of men : " Well, by G-o-a-d, France is a man that always behaves himself and attends to his own busi- ness, and he has been here long enough, by G-o-a-d," which did not correspond with his Excellency's rot to distant friends " that my conduct was exceedingly bad," and some of such dis- tant friends blamed and lectured and charged me severely over and over again to " behave myself and keep quiet ! " "OA, they could not help me unless I luould quit being so bad, and ivas very quiet.'' " Yes ! *in some way ' (but tvhat way they could not dis- cover, except that I did not keep still enough.) I had ofended the Governor!" [Horrible, horrible thought, to "offend" his Excellency (?)] That such slimy cattle as these blackleg governors could in any way get my friends to doubt me, knoivn as I was to them, made my flesh creep and me feel that : "With friends and falsehood I have done : I've fifty had and yet not one. They are only adders in the breast : That nestling in, devour their nest; That pleasing dream forever o'er ]VIy bosom I unlock no more, Yet though all hope oi friends is fled, I'll place acquaintance in their stead, I weep the sad exchange I own, (For my poor heart's not callous grown.") But the governor never dared to tell, outside of the gang, wherein I " offended" or my "conduct was so exceedingly bad." My Release. 373 Those who heard the superintendent and others talk about it at this time, thought I would be released sure. A member of the Legislature from my section said, "France did wrong, but if he had not killed the man, lie ivoidd have killed France ! " Copy. "Seatco, Wash. Territoby, October 14th, 1883. Hon. S. C Wingakd : Dear Sir : — Your certificate, etc., of June Ist, 1883, was gratefully received aud sent to the Governor, but has afforded me no relief. Have not the wishes of those who so criminally conspired to murder, plunder, and outrage me and my famdy been sufficiently gratified aud snnrisonment as long as I mould have sentenced him to undergo had the law allowed a less sentence than I imposed. Very respectfully, S. C. Wingard, Judge." G. W. F." In the published report of the legislative proceedings of November 27th, 1883, was the following, and all the papers publishing the legislative proceedings contained substantially the same paragraph : " A petition was read from a jarisoner now confined in the jjenitentiary at Seatco named Geo. W. France, certified to by Judge Wingard, relative to his confinement, and asking for an investigation of his case. A com- mittee was appointed to examine into the matter and report." "December 13th, 1883 :- Gowernor [Links] and son here; the latter sought an interview with me and informed me that he " had promised my people in the States to do all he could with his father for my release but had not as yet presented my case to him," [which made me acquainted with him, for he had arrived at Olympia nearly a month previously, and now he had no information for me and did not ivant any from me. The Gov- ernor was polite enough, asked me how long I had served, thought I looked better in health, etc., and inquired about some of my folks in the States, but had never a tvord to say about my " bad conduct " that he had been and was reporting to others. I could not get any information from him as to my release. They returned to Olympia when Dr. [Links], jr. sent the following letter to the States : "Territory oe Washington, Executive Department. Olympia, December 13th, 1883. I went to see your brother Geo. W. France to-day. I have not had an oj^portunity prior to this. Your brother seemed to be quite cheerful. My father has not been able to do anything for him as yet. I do not know exactly wha€ course he means to pursue. Yours very truly, [Bill Links], jr." My Eelease. 375 [Those who wilfully tolerate secret ''mystery" in office, should be made to suffer its practical workings direct.] ^^ January 7tli, 1884. — Dr. Linlcs, jr., in reply to a letter -wrote : "I had a free conversation -witli your brother concerning his case, and under- stand it thoroughly. The legislature did not apjjoint any committee to in- vestigate his case. Judge Wingard has not recommended his pardon. Yours, etc., [Bill Links], jr." We had no conversation about my case at all. He did not want any. As to the other matters they are on record, as I have shoii'n. A committee of three tvas appointed by the legislature, but one of my shyster lawyers and one of my jury (both masons and wicked enemies) managed to get on to it in the deadly guise of friendship, and thus was the investigation and report squelched. I wrote several letters to the committee but could never get any reply or any hearing. A member of that legislature told me that " Judge Wingard joined in urging him and other members to work for my re- lease, but that 'they had no injivence whatever ivith the Governor in my behalf.^ " [He evidently owed first allegiance to his secret sivorn brethren and their government.] ^'January 9ih, 1884. — Dr. Links, jr., came here as jirison physician. " January 23rd. — Governor [Links] here. I asked him if he would let me go ? He rejilied that he " "would see about it;" so he has quit "con- sidering " it and is going to " see about it." Sincerity never thus equivo- cates. Who is it that is an unmitigated liar ? From Judge Win- gard : " Walla Walla, Wash. Tebeitoky, January 26th, 1884. Your favor of the 16th inst. is received. I sentenced Mr. France to the minimum term of ten years. If I could have done so I -nould have sentenced him to five years imi:)risonmeut, because in my oiDiuion that would have been all he deserved. I have written to the Governor saying that five years imprisonment would atone for his crime. Why the Gov- ernor does not pardon him I do not know. I have heard, but could not prove it, that Mr. France has offended the Governor in some way. The relations of the Governor and myself in regard to pardoning have not been harmonious. The Judge has no power to pardon. EespectfuUy yours, etc., S. C. Wingakd." In what way did I offend (?) his Excellency ? Was it be- 376 Extracts from Diary Kept in Prison. cause I did not surrender the wreck of my home, or ivhat ? Why did he not dare to state wherein I " offended " him ? And again: "Waixa Waila, "Wash. Tekkitoky, Febmary 13, 1884. Yours of the 5tla inst. enclosing tlie letter of [Bill Links], jr., is at hand. I herewitli return said letter as yon request. The letter -which I wrote to the Governor — the substance of which I stated in my last letter to you — I sent to Geo. W. France, and I know he received it. What he did with it I do not know. It is to be supj^osed he sent it to the Governor [of course, I did]. I know nothing of Mr. France's family since I refused to entertain her (Mrs. F) apphcation for a divorce. Eespectfully yours, S. C. Wingakd." The Governor and Co. seemed to think that their efforts to malie tliis a secret prison were entirely successful, so that people must talxc their tvordsfor the truth, while the facts would be squelched when the victims were made to " l-eej) still" And according to the following from the son and " executive clerk " I was getting along S2)lendidhj, so why was the rush and clamor about me getting out into the cold, cruel world ! Nor does it appear that I was " offensive " to anybody here or to the gov- ernor. It is the cruel, unjust " people " again who are so hos- tile," and would " clamor " against my liberty. But why did they not tell this to the people, or their true representatives ? To them the pretext was, that " m?/ conduct teas had," or I had in some mysterious way '* offended the Governor," and why did he hold me through all those previous years of. unjust suffering and destruction, during which time it was conceded that my con- duct was good ? But what need he care about my " offensive " conduct as an unwilling victim to depravity, when the people with whom I had and was to live were so well satisfied with m}^ conduct as a citizen among them that they clamored for my restoration ? " Tl^KKITOKY OF WASHINGTON, EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENT, OiiYMPiA, January 24th, 1884. Your letter received. In regard to yom- brother's pardon I will say that no committee was appointed by the Legislature to investigate his case. I saw Mr. France yesterday ; he is in good health and spirits. It is impos-sible for you, Avithout practical knowledge of frontier hfe, to under- stand how hosUle the people are to pardon persons who have committed My Kelease. 377 cajjital offenses, and liow difficult it is for the Executive to carry out liis personal inclinations, especially in cases ■where prisoners ai"e well con- nected, and interest manifested in their release. The Governor Avould gladly accede to your request, but there is at this time so much of violent crimes committed that the pubhc visit their extremest indignation at any liberality exercised in this direction. Just so soon as he can consistently do so, he will give favorable con- sideration to your a^jplication in behalf of your brother. Yours respectfully, [BiLii Links] jr.. Executive Clerk." At the very time the doctor and executive clerk says I was "in good health and spirits," he was dosing me with digitalis, opium, bromide and iron — standard medicine for heart disease, with which they had afflicted me. And he repeatedly stated that he was " giving me stronger medicine, and more of it, than he gave out to any other patient that he had, as my condition required it." And the governor, who, when bounced as Governor, suc- ceeded his son as prison doctor, frequently censured and forbid me giving any of my medicine to others similarly afflicted, as " it was too strong for their condition." Sometimes it seemed that they were determined that I should die here, and were I not endowed with exceedingly strong vitality they would have suc- ceeded, so that I would never have a hearing ! And how "good [?] my spirits" were in such a dying condition, can never be told. Not satisfied to defame me as to my case, my family, my conduct and my standing with the people ! they must lie about my condition, when vainly struggling for even a- hearing in my own behalf, and suffering in their hell of a living and dying tomb all the tortures that devils could inflict and their victims endure ! But I always hoped and prayed for something of a here- after, wherein I would be accorded as much as a respectful and honest hearing that would be beneficial to others if not to my- self ; and I managed to get the following certificate from the ex-Governor : "Seatco, W. T., August 30th, 1886. George W. France has been confined for many years, his heart action 378 Extracts from Diary Kept in Prison. is very weak and impaires liis liealth generally. He lias been under medi- cal treatment for four years. [Bniii Links] M.D. Physician to the Territorial Penitentiary." As to the " people [?] of the frontier," even the tender- feet of Boston and New York knew and have always known that the "people of the frontier" are never "hostile" to a home- builder for killing a robber and assassin in the act, even if he did belong to the same secret sworn brotherhood as the gov- ernor, who is his accessory ! " The people of the frontier " are never hostile to a man for killing even a mere burglar, or incen- diary, or horse thief, or " member of the bar," or any other blackleg thief, no matter what his title may be, or whether he parades the Bible through the streets and wears for a blind emblems of honest toil. And the more such " violent crimes " are meted out to such vampires, the better do the people like it ; because the courts being so prostituted, this is often their only recourse to hold what they have honestly earned, and they would rather kill vampires than for them to picnic in their ruins. It is only members of the gang that are hostile to their entire extinction. And by the laws of Moses, a man is justified in killing them even when they are only " breaking in at the gate^' unarmed, and only to steal ! By considering the courts as gateways to the homes and property, and even the liberty and justice of the people : how many midnight blacklegs are there on the frontiers, who " are breaking in through these gates,'' (whose guards are prostituted and drunk with plunder) to rob and pillage, to ravage, mur- der, torture, deceive and defame ! that they may picnic in the ruins and gloat over the misery of their victims ? Not by the laws of Moses only, but by the spirit of all criminal laws from Mount Sinai to the Seatco hell, honestly meted out, and by the rights of man to hold and enjoy his own, such vampires should die. By the Egyptian law : " To see a man struggling for his life with an assassin and to fail to assist him, was a capital crime." There are thousands of men in secret prisons struggling tvith a^'isa^ssins and their aca'ssories as you are reading this; and will you, my felloiv-man, do nothing to assist them ? My EEI.EASE. 379 It is when these vampires and gallinippers — reekinf^ with crime and desolation — are set free, protected, or sanctioned by their secret brethren, in office and out, that the people do and should " visit their extremest indignation." For example : — When the ex-Governor applied for office by the votes of the people, he got only one vote in the four coun- ties wherein my case was best known. And later, when he was nominated by another ring governor as one of the trustees of the insane asylum, he Avas rejected by all hut tivo votes, while the other nominees were confirmed by the Legislature. ^^ January 2nd, 1884. — J. H. . iDardoned ; had served twenty months on ioMX years for grand larceny and forgery, had no petition whatever, as far as any of us can learn — secret influence. P. S. — He steals .^20 from a trunk, and is next heard of in a hospital at Portland, down with snakes in his boots. '^ February 13th. — Governor [Links] here; I complained to him of the refusal of the warden to mail my epitome to be published, as I had com- plained before, "and that I Avas prevented from attending to my most vital business;" he rephed, that "he (himself) had not killed a man," and that "I did not manifest any sympathy for the man I killed." I replied, that " were I killed in the act of murdering a man to rub liim, I would not be entitled to any sympathy and would not get any." But he manifestly holds, that it is no crime for one of his gang to murder, rob and ravish, for he has never had a word to say against his conduct, not a word. Nor has the warden (another secret brother) who has likewise insinuated that I should join in hiding the crime, and revere the name of his brother villain. No wonder that the worst characters that come here mean to join the gang on their release." " February 14th.— R . . gets a windfall of $20,000. There was no fool- ishness about his getting his short time, which was almost due. He had killed a man in a saloon and got one year." I thought I would discover whether the Government at Washington, which the people so blindly elect, cared as much for a distressed and ravaged home-builder in his own country, as it does for some blackleg free-mason or odd-fellow in trouble in a foreign land. "Seatco Prison, Wash. Terkitoey, February 25th, 1884. His Excellency, President Arthur, and the Congress of the United States: — Is there any recourse for a Aictim falsely and cruelly imprisoned here, and when it has and can be shown beyond disjjute or refutation that there never was the shadow of any true case of cxime against me ? It being in truth as strong a case of self-defense as ever went to trial — that of defend- 380 Extracts from Diary Kept in Prison. ing my life on my own hard-earned home against a most damnable and furious assault to murder for plunder and ravage ; hunting me while peacefully at work, with a cocked carbine in both hands, and firing the fii'st shot, Anth an abundance of indisputable proof —both, personal and cir- cumstantial to verify the same, with verified statements, jietitions, vouch- ers, etc., etc., constituting the strongest claim for justice and clemency ever filed in the Territory — including that of my neighbors almost unani- mously, four judges on the bench, and a goodly portion of the jury that aided in shanghaiing me, and all in vain. That to despoil me of my fortune and work my destruction, I have been thus imprisoned five and a half years, wrecking my health, ravaging my home, sucking my heart's blood. That by honorable toil and conduct I heljied to build this country, and therefore have a right to protection against the sharks and cut-throats — who are so powerful here — and my children to their rightful heritage on which they were born. That the Legislature here ai^pointed a committee to investigate my case, biTt it failed to report the crime done against me, or to accord me a hearing. Therefore, I hereby appeal to your Excellency and to Congress for Buch relief as is found to be just. I can be found as an old settler on the records of the land department for the Walla Walla district ; and our delegate knows enough of my case to vouch for me if he is so minded, as well as others there." [I concluded with Judge Wingard's recommendation.] I had to send this out " underground," and I never learned whether it was lost before it was mailed, or was squelched at Washington. However, little or nothing was to be expected to be done against the gang by an administration that appoints only members of the same to ofl&ce, as will, further on, more plainly appear. A foreign subject in distress might get some attention ; but a full-fledged, native-born, homebuilding citizen is — like the Savior— without friends or protection in his own country. Know ye, therefore, that if ever you have occasion to become acquainted with our Government, you will find to your sorrow and dismay, that it is rotten with practical masonry, reeking with corruption, and is against the people, and will con- clude, that unless members of secret-sworn brotherhoods are excluded from oflice, this boasted government "of the people" will sink in its own iniquity and perish from the earth. ''March 12th, 1884. — Governor [Links] here; I i^ressed him f or a reason for holding me in spite of the Judge's recommendation, etc. ; he replied, My Release. 381 tliat that document "amounted to nothing with him, but that five words from the Judge — that he had omitted — would have released me long ago, and it'ould now." I asked him "to name the necessary five words," and he replied, the form should be, " I hereby recommend France's jjardon. " I thought it -very singular that the Judge had not sense enough to properly commend one man to another's favor, and when so many experienced and competent men had declared it to be a "very strong recommendation," and that it should take the governor only nine (9) months to hatch out the only "proper" form for a Judge to express his opinion, and discover another false pretext for his own conduct. Nevertheless I sent the following telegram to the Judge : ' ' Seatco, ThuTvSTON Co. , Wash. Teekitort, March 13th, 1884 Hox. S. C. WiNGAED, WaUa Walla, W. T. : The Governor takes exception to the form of your recommendation, and says the following five words would be effective : "I hereby recom- mend France's pardon. " Will your Honor kindly comply ? Geo. W. France." '^ March 26th.^-'Dociox here ; says " the Governor had received a letter from the Judge in my behalf, but knew nothing more as to the matter." "April 5lh, 1884. — The Governor with the other i^rison commissioners here ; the Governor said he " had received a letter from Judge Wmgard in my behalf, about the same as the other," and that he " loould see me privately! before he left." But he did not do so at all. I waited nearly two months, and not getting even a pretext, I sent the following note by the Doctor to his father — the Governor. "Seatco, May 9th, 1884. His Excellency, Wm. A. [Links] : Dear Sir : — IMy most \-ital affairs are in a very sad and critical con- dition, and if you hold me longer in prison, ruin and destruction -n-ill be, as it has been, the result, and wliich will be on your head ; as you well know this to be all unjust, cruel and wicked against me. I would never be as cruel and inhuman to even a brute. You should also consider that had you made known to me at the outset your determination to hold me, right or wrong, and against all the ijidispiifuhle Irn/h thai liaa been shown and done in my behalf, that I could and would have been free to do right, and hai)2)y with my family at home, years ago, by other courts. But you jiromised other^^-ise, and I trusted to your honor. As I have never lied to you or any one else concerning my case, which during all the.se years of trial and torture you must know to be the truth, therefore, -svill you please concede to believe me now and act, when I l^romise and swear it to be better to permit me to save and care for the re- 382 Extracts from Diary Kept in Prison. maining Avi-eck of my home and family, -wliich demands my immediate presence, than to cause such ruin and destruction as your Excellency even would regret and recall. I earnestly request an early and definite reply. Very respectfully, Geo. W. Fkance." "Mai/ 20th. — Governor Links here, but he avoided seeing me." ''June 9th, 1884. — K. . pardoned ; served one year on his two year's sentence, and by his word was an old and most constant criminal and would be again, had been arrested many times, and the people were " clamorous " against him — more masonry." June 12th. — Doctor and Governor Links here — and I inter- viewed the gentleman. I asked him if he had heard from the Judge in reply to my telegram, and he said he had ; but that he had written to him "hlunt, crabhid and insulting!" — so he did! "Had 7iot recommended me," and that he [the Judge] "did not loant to he bothered anymore about it.^' The Governor did not question the truth of my telegram at all; but asked if I " would do the same deed again? " I replied that "I did not see how I could avoid it under the same circumstances, and save my own life, as my pistol did this sure- ly." Yet, he said that I " did wrong to ever carry arms at all." [3IarJi, that he had never a word, and oiever had, against Jumper's hunting to kill me with a carbine, which he held was WRONG to repel I How is that for equal rights and even the right to live, when in the way of the gang! They want to drive the people into as defenceless a con- dition as the following victim ; so they can pluck and murder them luithout arty danger to themselves. "Dr. Bones, of Missoula, was decoyed by a fellow into the confession that he didn't carry a shooting iron, and then the [odd] fellow jjoked a revolver under his nose and made him hold up his hands while he went- through him to the tune of ^60.] Then I asked his Excellency, "what more he now required?" When he (passed the Judge, so I would not "bother" him anymore, and thus get his Excellency "insulted" again, as the Judge was getting more "offensive" to him than I was !) and said, that I " should have some of the Jury." Why! I said: "you have already got that." And as he could not think of any other excuse, he ended the interview. Then the Doctor came to me and declared that '" he was doing all he could My Kelease. 383 former "Will he let me go?" I asked: "Yes I" he said, and theu he "didn't know." On the same day R . . was pardoned ; had served eighteen months and ten days on a sentence of two and a half years lor robbery. He had been on bread and water several times for bad conduct, had several fights and was shot and wounded in an attempt to run away ; whereupon a prisoner who could not get even his short time due him hy laio, became "hostile" indeed, and threatened, loith quivering lips, to vivisect Ms Excel- lency. Another who had been led to expect a pardon, was given a siege of bread and water for telling him he was a "damned liar," [and so he was]. It is reported that governor Links is to be removed soon, and the prisoners are earnestly praying that the report is true; it is conceded, that he is even worse than the other, and that a change must he for the better." While the governor did not want me to bother the Judge anymore about such a trifling matter to him as my liberty and life, and desired me to "keep very still and serene,'' while he tormented and prodded me to death, / was inclined to bother the Judge ywsi as long as I could get him to bother the Governor ^ or his successor, if he did " offend and insult them." Begging and praying to God and man (or devil) as ardently as a just cause could inspire, had been a sorry, agonizing failure, so I was not serene, and as I was to suffer on, I would also struggle on, with at least protests on my lips and curses in my heart. " Seatco, Juue 29tli, 1884. Hon. S. C. Wingakd : Deak Sib : — The Governor asserts that you have not and Avill not recommend my pardon, and that "yon do not want to be hothei-ed about it." But this is a serioiis and vital matter and not a mere question of " bother " or of etiquette, but of right and jiiittice. And I am still so cnielly and fraudulently held, and even the "Jive years " assurance vio- lated. I was hunted and foimd, when attacked, possessed of a $25,000 plant and fortune honestly earned, with my family I idoUzed, and a character unblemished ; was peacefully at work on my own hard-earned home, and so cautious of doing wrong that I was acting under the instructions of a peace officer. 384 Extracts from Diary Kept in Prison. No one lias ever pretended in my liearing, that I was liiinted and at- tacked for any other isurpose than to murder me for the fruits of my toil. Nor can any one truthfully deny that I was prosecuted, sold, shanghaied, and am yet held for this same criminal purpose, and to sanction the Climes done against me. For this is a fact well nigh accomi^lished, and declaring itself. With my course of hfe and associations, how could I know the character and purjjose of the blackleg monsters whom you had licensed to practice in your own court, and in whom you kequibe their vic- tims to trust for justice without any recourse. And with your knowledge and experience, how could you fail to see that my case was not presented, 2^le