- -w • V- £°* v :. *w • \^ /jflbr-, ^^ ^ ^ V »'". A>*^ -w "&1 ^d* • A * » Jk. & t*/ KW Wr ^ *T *0 ^ ■ ^~ i^ flJi'l* ~ i5» ^k >. ^ ..••. % *■• 4 \* °^ *^- a ^ v \ ^ - wa SR^Mfc* rv^ s3C > ■ l^feS i&d's^y OREGON Offers the most inviting field for Immigration of any State in the Union. An equable climate, with no extremes of heat or coid, and no severe storms of any kind. THE RESOURCES OF OREGON Are extensive, varied and prolific. Rich mines of Coal, Iron, Copper, Nickel, Gold and Silver. Vast forests of Pine, Cedar and an endless variety of other woods. Rich Agricultural lands, abundantly watered, producing abundant crops of all the Grains, Grasses and Vegetables known to the temperate zone. The best Fruit Region in the United States. No pests. No failure of crops of any kind PORTLAN D The metropolis and trade center of the Pacific Northwest. The best field for Business or Investment, and the most oleasant place of resi- dence on the Pacific coast. Population 1880, 22,000; 1889, 70,000. Wholesale and jobbing trade of 1888, $75,000,000.00. Trade is increasing at the rate of about twenty-five per cent, per year. Real estate values are low and steadily advancing with growth of the city. For full information as to State and City, address. THE OREGON IMMIGRATION BOARD, No. 10 Ash Street, PORTLAND. OREGON. No. I CROFUTT'S OVERLAND TOURS. CONSISTING OF OVER Six Thousand Miles of Main Tours, AND THREE THOUSAND MILES OF SIDE TOURS. ALSO SIX THOUSAND MILES BY STAGE AND WATER DESCRIPTIVE-ILLUSTRATED. 1 > v Geo. A.. Ckokutt, AUTHOR OF OVERLAND AM COLORADO DESCRIPTIVE TOURISTS' BOOKS, " ROUND UP," ETC. CHICAGO — PHILADELPHIA* H. J. SMITH & CO., Pu^Cjs-hers. 1889. .JSHERS. MAO 12 ! 88< ^SHINGTO^' SOLD WHOLESALE AND RETAIL BY Barkalow Bros., Railway News Agents, Omaha, Neb.; and at their : offices, No. 59 Van Buren St., Chicago; Kansas City, Mo.; and at th Union Depots in Denver, Cheyenne, Ogden, and Portland, Ore.; comprising the Union Pacific, Oregon Railway & Navigation, and the Denver & Rio Grande systems. Ki.i S. Denison, General News Agent, Oakland Pier, Sacramento, and Los Angeles, California, and Portland, Oregon; comprising the entire Pacific system of the Southern Pacific Co. Railroad News Co., General News Agents, Chicago, Kansas Citv, and Los Angeles. California; comprising the Atchison Topeka & Santa" Fe, " Burlington," and the Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific complete systems. Gunlock & Dunn , General News Agents, Chicago; Chicago & North- Western Ky. Entered according to the Act of Congress in the year 1889, by M. A. Crofutt, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. PREFACE. If you can read, and have any interest in or curiosity regard- ing the Trans-Missouri country, its wonderland and more won- derful resources, this book is written for you ! It will anticipate the most pertinent questions of every class of "stay at home" or Western travel: particularly the poor emigrant who with his wife and babies is seeking a home, and who wants only reliable and impartial information regarding lands, schools, etc.; the wage-worker, too, will be informed of the wage:, paid in every occupation, and of the demand. So with the farmer, fruit-grower, stock-raiser, lumberman, miner, hunter, fisherman, etc.; not forgetting the pleasure seeker and those in search of medicinal waters, climate, etc. Special effort has been made to avoid generalizing; instead, to give facts, names, dates, distances, altitudes, where to go, how to go, where to stop, and what it costs, as near as possible ; and above all, to express this information in as plain language and in as concise a manner as possible. In the preparation of this series of descriptive Tours, our just thirty years sojourn in the far West — twenty of which has been devoted specially to tourist and guide books — have proved invaluable ; yet the time, labor and extent of travel required to gather, sift, condense, compile and arrange the information, has been one requiring much more than ordinary care ; and we believe that each and every statement made is reliable in every particular — yet, we should shudder at the thought of being ab- solutely perfect. The map accompanying this book was prepared expressly for it, and shows at a glance the vast scope of country covered by the new series of descriptive Tours ; the green hues represent the routes of travel in this book, No. 1; the red lines those in No. 2 — the broad lines being the Main Tours and the narrow ones the Side Tours and stage lines. GEO. A. CROFUTT. Denvei . Colo., March, r88p. GENERAL INDEX. ILM'STKATIOMK. LARGE DOUBLE PAGE VIEWS. No. i. Falls of the Yellowstone. " 2. (ireat railroad "Loop." (Shoshone Falls. I Lateourell Falls. I Multonomah Falls. '■ ( Rooster Rock. Cape Horn, Columbia River. Columbia River by Moonlight. FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. Page. ( lolden Gate Special Frontispiece. Street View in Denver 42 Hanging Rock, Clear Creek Canon.. 55 Green Lake, Colorado 66 South Park, from Kenosha Hill 72 Alpine Tunnel, approach 7S Breckenridge Pass 83 Mount Holy Cross SS Boulder Canon, Colorado 97 Falls and Cliffs, Yellowstone 113 Young Mormon Bishops 124 Devil'sSlide, Weber Canon 133 Garfield Beach, bathing 157 Yellowstone Lake 173 American Falls and Bridge ...183 Palisades of the Columbia 260 PORTRAITS. Thus L. Kimball | J. S. Tebbetts, > 5 E. L. Lomax. I Page. portraits — continued. Brigham Young 136 SMALLER ILLUSTRATIONS. Gardner Spring. National Park 21 Pony Express 30 Bee Hive Geyser, Yellowstone 36 Capital of Colorado 4S Cattle Brand 49 The Loop, surface 6S Our Singing Birds 100 View in Yellowstone Valley 108 Pulpit Rock, Utah 128 Witches' " " 131 One Thousand Mile Tree 131 Mormon Temple 1411 " Tabernacle 140 Assembly Building [40 " Co-Op. Sign 141 Terraced Springs, Water Pockets 164 Giantess Geyser 170 Old Faithful, Yellowstone 175 Packers going to the mountains. . [89 Castle Geyser ) .„, Fire Basin / " My Dear Deer 196 Horse Tail Fall 227 Bridal Veil Fall 225 Islands in the Columbia 235 Pillars of Hercules 258 KAILKOADS. Union Pacific "Left-Leg" Branch Alma ' Boulder Valley " Cheyenne & Northern Colby Colorado Central Denver Pacific Denver Short Line Junction City Kansas Pacific Keystone Leavenworth Lincoln Manhattan Marshall & Boulder Narrow ( rauge Norfolk O. c\: R. V ( >regon Short l.im Salina ' S. I.. & Western Solomon Sunset South Park \\ 1 11 11I River Page ..12-17 -33-37 Branch 04 .... 44 59-9S " 35-101 - 43 37 " .... S 4 - 39 v 44 .... 41 • .... 96 •■•• 39 .... 25 " 22-25-26 " 122-165 .... 44 ...149 - 43 ... 98 69-81 Page. Oregon Railway & Navigation 201 O. R & N.Dayton Branch 209 Heppner " 219 Moscow " 213 Pampa " 212 Pomeroy 210 " Winona " 212' Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe 40 Central Pacific 134 Colorado Midland 90-93 Columbia & Puget Sound 246 Denver & Rio Grande 76 86-91 Fremont, Elkhorn & Mo. Valley 23 Gilpin Tram ." 63 Idaho Central 194 Montana Union 178 Northern Pacific 216 237 246 Olympia & Chehalis Valley 239-250 Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern.. .216-246 Southern Pacific 134 Spokane & Palouse 213-215 St. Joseph & Grand Island 22-26 Utah Central [38 145 Utah & Nevada 1 LAKES. Page Hot 204 Yellowstone Swan 176 Heai Utah 153 Great Salt 138 Page. Como 1 12 Cooper '. 1 12 Crystal 111 rainier 91 Twin 76 Page. Cottonwool i 75 Grand.. 67 Elk 67 Clear 66 Green 65 GENERAL INDEX-coxtinued. JtllSOiLIi Page. Past and Present n Golden Gate Special 16 Equipments 14 Stock — feeding 23 raising 46 Cattle — Range 4 s Round-up 49 Colorado — Generally 53 Climate. Irrigation. Products. Minerals. Mining. Scenery. Parks..". 56-110 Snowy Range 56-110 Wages Paid. 57-58 University 98 The Mirage Pheuomonen 47 Baggage — Sleepers — Lunch 18 Bridge over Missouri River 19 O'Fallons Bluffs 27 Indian Train Wreckers 27 White " Robbers 29-168 j Overland Ponv Kxpress 30 The Rockies...". 32-53 Wood, $210 per cord 33 1 Sheridan Powerless 35 Old "Cut-off" Wagon Road 35 A Little History 38-263 Agricultural College, Kansas 40-41 Big Hunt, Duke Alexis 47 Chivingston's Eight 47 Kenosha Hill, Colorado 71 "Salted" to Death 74 Alpine Tunnel 79 , California Gulch 86 j Grand River Canon 89 j Glen Park Association 92 Pike's Peak 95 Garden of the Gods 96 Boulder Canon 98 Estes Park, etc 99 The Ames Bros'. Monument 107 Winters at Sherman 10S Dale Creek Bridge 109 Laramie Plains no Indian Reservations..! 16-205-169-205-215 Bear River Riot, Vigilantes 125 Powell's Early Explorations 121 Echo Canon, Pulpit Rock 126-127 Witches' Rocks, 1000 Mile Tree 131 Devil's Slide 133 Grand Views 132- 146- 194 Utah Territory— Generally 136 " Farm Products. Minerals. Climate. Fruit. Salt. " Wages Paid. Mormon Towns 145 " Devil Names 151 Salt Lake 138 " Mormon Villages 162 Little and Big Cottonwoods 147-14S Snow Sheds — "Peanuts" 147-148 American Fork Cation 150 Grand Amphiteatre 152-262-218 Fish and Frog Culture 153 Volcanic. Water Marks 160 College Farm, Logau Temple. ...162-163 Yellowstone Park 172 AXEOIS Page. Montana — Generally 175 Mines Montana Indians. Livestock. Valle>\s. Population. Wealth. Agriculture. College ,. tSi Mammoth AVorks t8o Snake River Lava Beds is_> Wood River Valley, Camas Prairie. ..185 Alturas County. Idaho 186 Ada " " "• 198 Washington 199 Boise 197 Nez Perces " 211 Latah " 214 Shoshone and Twin Falls 190 Great Canal Enterprise 194 Boise Basin and Vicinity 197 Snake River Canon 200 Grand Ronde Vallev 202 Walla Walla " 20S Umatilla County, Oregon 206 Up the Snake to Lewiston 211 Spokane Falls and Vicinity 215 Upper Palisades of the Columbia 218 Fluming Wheat 221 Pluto's Caldron 221 Best View of Mt. Hood 222 The Lock, Cascades 226 Fisheries 228-245-251 Pillars of Hercules 22s Rooster Rock 228 Oregon and Portland 231 Educational. " Counties. " Schools, etc. " Statistics. " Metereological. " Railroads, Busi- ness. Industries. Wool Clip, etc. Down the Columbia River .,.233 Salmon Canning •■•233 Clatsop Countv, Oregon 234 Pierce County. W. T 241 Puget Sound ." 241-251 Navy Yard '•••243 Smelting Works 241-246 Steel Works 245 Big Lumber Cut 244 Trusts, Strikes 247 Washington Territorv — Generally. ..251 "The Sound J Lands. " Minerals. Lumber. Banking. Fish. " Indians. Climate. Agricultural. Coal. Wages. Chinook Wind, Peculiar Mounds 255 The Columbia Scenery: 25S Cape Horn 259 Castle Rock 261 Catching Pish by Water-power 261 GOVERNMENT FORTS AND (AMPS. Page. Fort Omaha 20 " Sidney 30 " Sedgwick 33 " Morgan 34 " Riley 41 " Harker 44 " Hays 45 •' Wallace 46 " Denver 70 " D. A. Russell 103 Page. Fort Laramie 105 " Fred Steele 115 " Washakie v 116 " Bridger * 123 " Douglas 142 " Walla Walla 209 " Townsend 248 Camp Pilot Butte 119 Boise Barracks 196 Vancouver Barracks 257 GENERAL INDEX -CONTINUED. SIDE TOURS AND DETOURS. Page. Page. IN COLORADO. IN IDAHO AND MONTANA. Tour « 59 Tour u 169 '• 12 184 i^ 190 " 14 '94 IN OREGON AND WASHINGTON. Tour is 207 " t6 21S " 17 233 [8 249 " 19 256 Detours 209 210 211 215 ., 4 " 5- Detour. IN WYOMING. Tour 6 104 IN 11 All. Tour 7 129 8 145 " 9 ■„ 156 " 10 160 Detours 146 1 1" 150 MOUNTAINS, PEAKS, PASSES. Page. The Rockies 3 2- 53 The Cascades 161-248 The Olympia 243-248 The Sheep 84 The Elk 114 Noted Peaks 237 Gray's Peak 69 Torre v ' s " 69 LaPla'tta " 67 Long's " 90 Pike's " Castleton 81 Castle Rock 91 Castle Rock, Utah 127 Castle Rock, Wash. T...237 Cedar Fort 149 Cedar Point 50 Cedar Rapids 25 Centerville (Oregon)... 207 Central City, Neb 25 Page. Central City, Colo 62 Centralia 238 Centre ville 139 Chambers 156 Cheyenne 103 Cheyenne Wells 47 Chehalis 238 Chihuahua 84 Chuckanut 246 Chugwater 105 Church Buttes 122 Clay Centre, Neb 22 Clay Centre, Kan 39 Climax 85 Clyde 43 Coalville 129 Colby 44 Colfax 213 Colilo 222 Col Huston [(Si Colorado City 94 Colorado Springs 92 Columbus 25 Como 73 Concordia 43 Cooper Lake 1 12 Cottonwood 61 Creston 117 Dana 1 is David City 22 Dayton 209 Deer Lodge 180 Denver 50-51 Deuel 34 Dewey 161 Devil's Gate 134 Diamond 213 Dickey 84 Dillon, Colo 84 Dillon, Mont 177 Dome Rock 71 Draper 148 P'agle Rock 171 F^ast Portland 230 F^aton 102 F'cho 217 F.cho City 127 Edson ..." 1 15 Hlberton 214 F'lkhoru 22 F;ilis 45 Ellsworth 44 Empire City 65 Fndicott 213 P'stabrook Park 71 Esquimalt, B. C 249 p;ureka 150 Evans m 1 Evanstoti 126 Fairburv 22-26 Fairfield, Nebl 22-26 Fairfield, Utah [49 Farmington, Utah 139 Farmington, Wash. T..215 Fairplay 73 Fairview 228 F'irst View 47 Fort Collins 99 Forks Creek 61 Fort Morgan 34 Fossil 165 Franklin 163 Fremont 23 Fremont's Pass 85 Frisco 155 Page. Garfield 214 Garfield Beach 156 Garos 73 Garrison [81 Genoa 25 Georgetown 65 Gilmore 22 Glenn's Ferry 192 Glenwood Springs S9 Golden 60 Graymont 69 Granite 76 Grand Island 26 Granger 122 Granite Canon 107 Grants 221 Greeley 102 Green River 119 Grayline 177 Gunnison City 80 Gypsum .". 87 Hailey [86 Hampton 123 Hancock 77 Hays 45 Hilliard 124 Hill Top 74 Holton 39 Hood River 226 Honey ville 161 Horse Creek 104 Hortense 77 Hot Lake 204 Hoxie 44 Hunter 237 Huntington 200 Huntsville 209 Hyde Park 163 Idaho Springs 63 Ironton, Utah 150 Ironton, Wash. T 248 Iron Mountain 105 Islay 104 Juab 134 Julesburg 29 Junction City 41 Kalama 234-237 Kansas City 37 Kays ville 139 Kearney 26 Kelso 237 Kenosha 71 Ketchum t88 Kimball 32 Kit Carson 47 Kokomo 84 Kuna 193 La Camas 257 La Salle 35-i°i Lake View 239 Lander 116 Laramie City 110 Lupton lor Lawrence 39 Lawrenceburg 43 Lawrence Junction 39 Leadville 85 Leavenworth 39 Leduc 185 Lehi 150 Lehi Junction 149 Levan 154 Lewiston 211 Lincoln >2 -11 Lindsborg 44 10 GENERAL INDEX -CONTINUED. CITIES, TOWNS, STATIONS— Continued. Page. Lin wood 39 Littleton "0-9 1 Logan 162 London 73 Loveland 99 lower Cascades 262 Longmont 98 Loup City 26 Malta ." .*... 86 Manitou 94 Manhattan 41-22 Market Lake 171 Marysville 22-26-41 Maxwell 217 Medicine Row 1 14 Melrose 177 Mendon 162 McCain mou 164 McCool Junction 22 McGees 75 Mel'herson 44 Mt. Carbon Si Millbrook 44 Milfonl 155 Milton 207 Minidoka 1S4 Minneapolis. 43 Mirage 47 Mima 154 Monida 175 Montpelier 166 Montezuma 84 Morrison 71) Moscow 214 Mountain Home T92 Mnltonomah 228 Nampa 193 Napavine 238 Nathrop 77 Nephi i.S4 New Cambria 43 Norfork 25 North Platte City 27 North Powder 202 Nutria 165 Oakley 46 Oasis; 135 Oconee 25 O'Fallon 27 Ogallala 2S Ogden 134-135 Ogdensburg 41 Ohio City 80 Old's Ferry 200 Olympia 250 Omaha 19 Ontario 198 Ord 26 Otto 107 Oxford 164 Palmer Lake 91 Palouse Junction 212 Papillion 22 Parlins 80 Park City 129 Page. Payette [99 Payson [53 Pendleton Piedmont 1 23 Picabo [85 Pine Pluffs 32 Pitkin No Platte Canon 70 Platteville k>i Pleasant Grove i.sj Pleasant Valley 101 Pocatello 169 Point of Rocks 1 iS Port Blakelv 24 t Port Discovery 24* Port Hadlock" 248 Port Townscnd 148 Portland 229 Preston [36 Provo 152 Pullman 213 Rawlins 116 Red Buttes 109 Red Cliff 87 Red Desert 1 18 Red Rock 176 Richmond 163 Riparia 210 Robinson 84 Rock Creek 1 12 Rock Springs 118 Romley 77 Rooster Rock Russell 44 Saint Helens 234 Salina 44 Salt Lake City 141 Salt Wells i us San Francisco 231 Sandy ...14S Santaquin 154 Saratoga 1 15 Schuyler 25 Schwanders 75 Scotia 26 Seatco 236 Seattle ■ \ • Sehome 247 Separation 117 Sharon Springs 46 Sherman [07 Shoshone [84 Sidney 30 Silver Bow [78 Silver City 1.50 Silver Plume 68 Soda Springs 166 Solomon 43 Squally Hook 221 Spanish Fork ..153 Spokane Falls 215 Springfield 163 Spring Hill 176 Spriugville 153 State Line 39 Page. Sterling 33 Stockton 159 Strotnsburg 22 St. Klmo 77 Si. Mary's 40 St. Paul. 26 Summit 162 Summerville ■ 1 Sutton 22 Table Rock lis Tacoma 240 Teachout s.i Tenino 239-256 Tehnessei Pass s; Tikura 185 Tintic 150 Tooele 159 Topeka 40 Irouchet 219 Troutdale 22^ The Dalles 223 TheTransfer 17 Turn water 255 Twin Lakes 76 Uintah 1 54 Umatilla 217 Union 203 Upper Cascades 262 Uva 106 Valley 22 Valley Falls 39 Valparaiso 26 Vancouver 2s- Victoria, Kan 45 Victoria. B. C Wa-Keeney 45 Waldo 44 Walkersville [79 Wallace 46 Walla Walla 208 Wallula 219 Wahoo 22 Wain ego 40 Wyandotte 38 Warm Springs 1S0 Wasatch 126 Washougal 257 \V;iii sburg 209 Weatherby 201 Weber 132 Weir 29 Weiser 199 Wendover 106 West Seattle | Weston 207 Whatcom 247 Wheatland 106 Wheeler 84 Willows 220 Willows Junction 219 Winlock 238 Win ship 129 Wolcott 115 Velm Prairie 23c) Zurich 44 11 THE PRST RND PRESENT. It is in the memory of the writer when Ohio and Michigan were away out west; when stages arrived in New York regularly every day from Boston, ' 'weather permitting, ' ' and leaving as regularly for Philadelphia and the west. Buffalo and Pittsburgh were then the frontier towns. From the former two steamboats left, once a week, and a stage-wagon from Pittsburgh for the "Northwestern Terri- tory," now Ohio and Michigan. The entire white population residing west of the two cities above named numbered less than 25,000 and they were mostly hunters, trappers, and fur-traders, or refugees from justice in the east. The popular clamor in those days in the east for the settlement of the west found voice in a universal invitation as follows: "Come from every nation. Come from every way < )nr lands they are broad enough So don't be alarmed, For Uncle Sam is rich enough To give us all a farm." Thejr came, and from every nation — even from China, India and Japan. They came as the winds come when forests are reuded. They came as the waves come when navies are stranded. In 1849 Illinois was the extreme frontier. The gold discoveries in California were circulated in the east about that time and tens of thousands of adventurous men started by water around "Cape Horn," 20,000 miles, for this new El Dorado. Others, more ven- turesome pressed into service horses, mules and cattle and many varieties of conveyances, and boldly struck out towards the setting sun, across the then almost unknown trackless deserts and path- less mountains; many there were who started with hand-carts, propelling them themselves. Again, there were others who started on foot with only what they could pack on their backs, trusting to luck to get through to the gold fields. In 1855 Ohio, Indiana, Michigan and Illinois were supposed to contain the wheat-growing soil of the Union, and they became known as the "granaries of the states." At that time the extreme western limit of railroad travel was at East St. Louis and Rock Island, both in the state of Illinois. Then the "far west" — that almost mythical region — was what now constitutes those vast and fertile prairies which lie south and west of the great lakes and east of and bordering the Mississippi river; all beyond was a blank, or popularly thought to be a "howling wilderness, " inhabited only by Indians, wild nomads, and all the dangers of the inferno. About this date our hardy pioneers passed the "Rubicon" and the west receded before their advance; Missouri was peopled and the Father of Waters became the natural highway of a mighty commerce. 12 awake! progress — awake! Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Missouri, and Iowa had joined the sisterhood, and yet the tide of emigration stayed not. It traversed the Rocky mountains, and secured a foothold in Oregon. But it passed by not unheeding the rich valleys and broad prairies of Nebraska and Kansas, which retained what became, with sub- sequent additions, a permanent and thriving population. In 1858-9 the gold discoveries in the "Pike's Peak country," now Colorado, caused another great rush "from every nation," and the population of California had increased to that extent, when it was added to the number comprising the great American Union; Oregon and Nevada on the western slope, and Kansas and Nebraska on the east, followed, and still the roads westward from the Mis- souri river were thronged with emigrants going west. They "came from every nation," etc. Congress Acts — The extraordinary developments in Califor- nia and Oregon prompted many far-seeing men in congress to advocate the building of a railroad across the continent. At that date Iowa and Missouri were the recognized frontier. Notwithstanding that Benton, Clarke and others had long urged the necessity and practicability of a railroad from the Missouri river to the Pacific coast, pointing out the wealth and power which would accrue to the country from its realization; the idea found favor with but few of our wise legislators until they awoke to the knowledge that even the loyal state of California was in danger of being abandoned by those in command, and turned over to the leaders of the great rebellion; that a rebel force was forming in Texas with the Pacific coast as its objective point; that foreign and domestic machinations threatened the dismemberment of the Union its three divisions; not until all this stared them in the face could our national solons see the practicability of the scheme so earnestly advocated by Sargent, of California, and his able coadju- tors in the noble work. To this threatened invasion the govern- ment had little to offer for successful defense. Then, the building of the Pacific railroad across the continent became a great national necessity, and the charter was granted for the construction of the I nion Pacific Railroad — The building of this road was inaugurated by the grandest carnival of blood the world has ever known; for, without the pressure of the rebellion, the road would probably have remained in embryo for many years. Notwithstanding almost numberless insurmountable difficulties — financially and otherwise— the road was completed Mav 10th, 1869. Then All was changed — The magnificent trains of the Union Pa- cific railroad rolled across the continent filled with emigrants and pleasure seekers through that region which only a few years be- fore was but a dim, undefined mythical expanse, supposed to be valueless for any purpose. How great the change from the ideal to the real, as this book will show. For over 300 miles after leav- ing Omaha and Kansas City, that vague "great American desert" proves to be as beautiful and fertile a succession of valleys as can be found elsewhere under like geographical position. In this last decade the railroads from the east extended their lines westward to the Missouri river, and a full score soon adver- tised to making "close connections" with the pioneer overland. MARCH ON ! MARCH ON ! 13 The Missouri Pacific was the first to reach the Missouri river at Kansas City, where it arrived October 1st, 1865. The Chicago & North-Western came next, to Council Bluffs, January 17th, 1867. The Central Pacific was the first to commence work on the trans-continental line at Sacramento, Februar}' 22d, 1863. Next came the Kansas Pacific [now of the Union Pacific system] Septem- ber 1st, 1863, and the Union Pacific commenced November 5th, 1865. From 1869 to 1889, twenty years records a progress the most marvelous in the world's history. To-day — the superb coaches and palaces of this pioneer rail- road line, crossing the continent, are equipped in the most complete manner for speed, safety and comfort, and the trains roll across the plains and over the mountains to meet the far-off foam-crested waves of the Pacific ocean, which bear on their bosoms a mighty and steadily increasing commerce. China, Japan, Australia, the Sandwich Islands, South America, and the famed Orient are at our doors. Also the marvelous wealth of our own west and north- west coast — California, Oregon, Washington and the rich Alaska and Puget Sound country. Three rich, powerful, populous and progressive states have arisen, where but a few years since the Jesuit missionaries among the savages were the only works of civilization; Colorado, too, joined the sisterhood, leaving Dakota, Idaho, Montana, Washing- ton, Utah, New Mexico and Arizona, to say nothing of Alaska, waiting the time, when they, too, shall add their names to the roll of honor and enter the union on an equality with the others, which, in point of population and wealth, they have long been entitled. Thus we see that the "far west" of to-day has become far removed from the west of three decades ago, and what is now the central portion of our great commonwealth was then the far, far west. \'ow — all over the once unknown waste, amid the cosy valleys and on the broad plains, are the homes, well cultivated fields, pro- lific orchards and vineyards, and countless flocks and herds of unnumbered thousand of hardy and brave pioneer settlers; thev "came from every nation," etc. At the same time the towering mountains, once the home of the skulking savage and wild beast, the deep gulches and gloomy canons are illuminated with the perpetual fires of hundreds of smelting furnaces; the ring of pick, shovel and drill, the clatter of stamps and booming of blasts, all tell of the presence of the miner; and the streams of wealth which are daily loading great railroad trains and flowing into our national coffers are marvelous and continually increasing, for just in proportion as the individual becomes enriched, so does his country partake of his fortune. When we published our first trans-continental book, September 1, 1869, the Missouri river was the recognized frontier line. It was there all travelers for the great unknown, toward the setting sun, congregated; it was there they bid good-bye to friends, or mailed their parting lines, many times with fearful misgivings for the future. In 1869, we secured a list of the equipments of the Union Pacific railroad. To contrast that date with the present, 20 years, we reproduce the figures, adding those for 1889. 14 1869—1889. EQUIPMENT FOR IS69. locomotives Pullman sleepers Pa ssenger cars second class Mail .mil express cars Caboose " Baggai^ " Box " Flat ' " Hand " Dump ' Coal " Bridge Gravel " Derrick " Wrecking " s Rubble " Cook " Powdei " Water tank ' Pay officers " President's " ,885 ■472 264 47 231 Total equipment. EQUIPMENT FOR 1889. Locomotives, standard gauge 541 narrow guage 143 Snow plows 36 Flaugers 19 Pullman sleepers 55 Coaches iy x Officers' cars 11 Pay " 2 Chair " 5 Footings Baggage cars Mail cars Express cars Coach and baggage combined . Baggage, mail and express comb'd Baggage and mail combined Baggage and express combined... Excursion coaches Excursion and emigrant sleepers Coal hopper and dump cars Fruit " Caboose " Hand Box " " fast freight " .". " refrigerator " " furniture.. " Flat " Coal " Stock ■ Stock — combination " Outfit " Derrick " Wrecking tool " Pile driver " Water and tank " 1 'low and scraper " Construction flat " Steam shovel " 14 89 J07 560 7,823 392 403 749 1,294 3,621 1,435 131 22 14 16 9 6s Total equipment is 780 Equipment, 1869 4. 547 The increase of equipment '4,433 Total number of employes 16.500 We append the following curious item of information obtained through the courtesy of Mr. A. Trayuor, Gen'l Baggage Agent of the Union Pacific railway. "General Baggage Office, i "Council Bluffs, Iowa, Nov. 24th, 1888. J Statement of the business of the baggage department for years 1883 to 1887, inclusive —five years. YEAR. NO. PIECES. r,475,5°8 1,515.111 [,228,262 1,792,646 2,049 8,060,776 EXCESS BAGGAGE. LOSS AND DAMAGE. RECEIVED FKV..M SALE EXCLAIMED. I88 3 1884 l88 5 [886 1887 f 1 14,51 92,040.20 M.V (84.90 101,661.42 S460.55 27.07 60.00 402.47 S424-75 421.15 568..S' ' 531.10 727.32 Total, $482, 990.09 1 $2,672.82 Average per year of the total value of baggage handled, esti- mated at $150.00 perpiece, §120,911,040. Oil. Civilization has literally rolled across the continent. "Came from every nation, came from everyway," converting what was for ages supposed to be a wilderness into the most productive country. There is no longer any "desert," the mountains have been tunnelled or scaled, the plains have been spanned by various lines of railroad, the tide of emigration has reached the Pacific coast. New York is within four days and Europe within ten days of Puget sound. The manufacturing enterprise of the east has invaded the far west; factories are springing up in her cities and towns, and her vast mineral, lumber and fishery resources are being developed to a marvelous extent. Minesof gold and silver, producing $10,000,- (100 a year; of copper, $5,200,000 a year; saw-uiills, sawing 517,000 feel of lumber a day; hop crops, valued at $1,500 per acre; wheat, PAST — PRESENT. 15 140 bushels to the acre; barley, 65 bushels to the acre; four and a half tons of timothy to the acre, apples weighing 44 ounces, and wild strawberries eight inches in circumference, are among the productions of this "desert" country. A country where they catch fish by water power, rolling them into their big canneries in great streams, shipping hundreds of tons fresh, and 5,000,000 of cans annually. Where vast bodies of water fall sheer 2,000 feet, and in others shoot upwards, boiling hot, over 200 feet, where moun- tains elevate their peaks, snow-cappped, nearly 15,000 feet, and fear- ful chasms yawn to an unfathomable depth. In 1864 no railroad had reached the Missouri river frontier line, and the entire commerce of the Missouri valley and beyond was carried on by steam packets on the river from St. Louis, or by "prairie schooners" across the country. The materials for building the Union Pacific railroad all came up the Missouri river on boats, or were hauled on wagons across the state of Iowa for hundreds of miles. When the Union Pacific railroad was commenced, Omaha had a population of 2,500, now, 110,000; Kansas City, 3,600; now, 165,000; Denver, 1,500; now, 80,000; Salt Lake City, 4,500; now, 30,000; Portland, 300; now, 50,000, and scores of cities and towns containing populations now of from 5,000 to 25,000 were unknown then. At the present time there are over 900 cities and towns west of the old Missouri frontier line of 1860 that number their pop- ulation from 300 to 25,000 each, which have sprung into existence since that date. THE Pullman Palace Car Co. — Now operates this class of service on the Union Pacific and connecting lines. PULLMAN PALACE CAR RATES BETWEEN ] I ;,'.','!h^ ' ' k' " .'m " New Vork and Chicago New York and St. Lonis Boston and Chicago Chicago and Omaha or Kansas City Chicago and Denver St. Lonis and Kansas City St. Lonis and Omaha Kansas City and Cheyenne Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Denver I Council Bluffs or Omaha and Cheyenne | Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Salt Lake Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Ogden Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Butte... Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Portland C. Bluffs, Omaha or K. City and San Franciscoor LosAngeles Cheyenne and Portland Denver and Leadville Denver and Portland Denver and Los Angeles Den\ er and San Francisco Ogden and Butte . Ogden and Pocatello Pocatello and But te 5 5.00 • i B.i 10 6.oo 22.00 5-5 We now return to Julesburg. Demer Short Line — Branch, leaves the main line at Jules- burg, and continues up the South Platte river, to Denver, 197 miles. The country for the first 50 miles is occupied exclusively by the stock-raisers, their ranch houses being scattered along the river, on each side. Some have large tracts of land enclosed for a winter range, and side tracks for shipping stock; but the greater number depend entirely on the public range, both winter and summer. Leaving Julesburg, it is about five miles to the crossing of Lodge Pole creek, opposite which, on the south side of the Platte river, is the site of old Fort Sedgwick — It was established May 19, 1864, and aban- doned in 186.S, nothing remaining, not one stone upon another, to mark the site. Just here "I could a tale unfold!" Yes, and we will doit, too — simply to enable the reader to contrast the times: The month of December, 1865, was a fearfully cold one; the barracks were built of lumber without plaster on the inside; good summer houses, but as cold as a barn in the winter; the firewood supply got very short, when "proposals " were advertised for 300 cords of soft wood. Only one bid was put in, and that was from Mr. John Hughes, of Denver, who proposed to furnish it for §105 per cord. The con- tract was awarded to Mr. Hughes, and most of the wood was sent down from Denver on wagons, 200 miles, at a cost of from $55 to $65 per cord for freighting. The cost of the wood in Denver was $20 per cord. Besides this, the contractor was allowed to put in what hard wood he could get at double the price, or $210 per cord, which by many was thought to be a "pretty soft snap." The "hard wood" was obtained in the scrub-oak bluffs of Colorado, 50 miles south of Denver city, and cost no more for transportation than did the pine. Skirting the river, which at certain seasons abounds in ducks and geese from the mountains to its mouth, the country presents few objects of interest worthy of note, beside the cattle interests already referred to in another place. Sterling' — [Pop., 6oo; from Julesburg, 57 miles; LaSalle, 74 miles; Den- ver, 120 miles; elevation, 3,920 feet]. — It is a regular meal station on the railroad, the seat of Logan county, Colorado, situated in the midst of the largest and richest tract of bottom land on the Platte river, and Denver Short Line. This tract is about five miles wide, and the portions tributary to Sterling for business are from 15 to 20 ,•',4 STERLING— FORT MORGAN. miles in length, on the west side of the river; then, there is a large tract of valuable agricultural land on the south side; also, heavy stock interests on both sides of the river. Much of the lands on the west side of the river, near Sterling, are under irrigating canals, which have been constructed by the settlers, who take the water from the Platte, a few miles up the river. All the irrigated lands produce bountiful crops of grain and vegetables. Other tracts are natural meadows, on which a large amount of hay is raised without irrigation. Sterling has several good brick business blocks, and stores and shops of many kinds, also a newspaper. The depot hotel is the principal one in the town. The railroad company have machine, round-house and repair- shops located here. At Sterling the passenger trains from both the east and west meet and pass. Good schools and a number of churches are here, and well attended; but why need we speak of those? Everybody knows that in Colorado schools and churches are among the iirst things that command the attention of the settler. He may live in a "dug-out" himself, but he must have a school for his children; then a church. In times past it was a common occurrence for a party of emi- grants to drive out from the Missouri river with teams, select a tract of land, set their wagon beds on the ground to live in, and then all " club together," with their teams and haul logs and build a school house the first thing, when there might not be over a dozen children among the party. Such people never rust out; they may be poor, but never thieves. Should they get rich, and they will, they never patronize the divorce courts. The road traveled in "ye olden times," by the overland stage, emigrants and "Pilgrims," is on the south side of the Platte river from Fort Kearney to Denver. Now the stock-men possess the countrv almost exclusivelv. Connections by rail are Burlington .•* Cheyenne railroad. Leaving Sterling our course is to the southwest for nearly 40 miles, passing several small stations, where the settlers have con- structed canals and ditches for irrigating purposes; hay — mostly alfalfa — is the principal crop. Most of the settlers are engaged in stock-raising, and the crops raised are for their own use — for their riding animals. DfllCl — [From Sterling, 4;, miles; Denver, 97 miles; elevation. 4,263 feet]. Named for Mr. Harry Deuel, the jolly old pioneer ticket agent at Omaha. But why a little station, situated in the sand hills, should be named for Harry, is past comprehension. It's got more sand and grit than Harry. Fort Morgan — Now a thrifty little town of (iOO population — once a government post — is situated on the south side of the river opposite Deuel, upon the high table land. An irrigating canal enables the settlers to raise good crops of grain and vegetables in in the vicinity. Connected by hack with Deuel. SHERIDAN POWERLESS— LA SALLE. 35 Sheridan Powerless — Not "Little Phil," but his brother, "Mike." It was in the early spring of 1866. An order had been issued that no less number of persons than 30 should be allowed to pass a government post on the overland road between the Missouri river and Utah, and they must be well organized and armed to resist any Indian attack. At the time named the writer appeared at the post with a party of 28 men and applied for a pass. Capt. (now Colonel) "Mike" refused. Three days passed, no recruits came to our number. Early the following morning, while Capt. "Mike" was resting the whole cavalry command deserted, taking their horses and equipments, and there were none left to pursue or say them nay. Our "outfit" rolled down the Platte river 25 miles that day, and we have never seen Capt. "Mike" since. Cut-off — At P'ort Morgan the old wagon road going west forked, one route keeping along the river via Fremont's orchard, and the other, the Cut-off, turned to the left across the country, saving in distance about 20 miles and some bad sand hills. But the water supply was very poor and short. At the time when this route was laid out — in 1861 — and opened for travel, the citizens celebrated the event with as much enthusiasm as could now be crowded into a dozen "Fourth of Julys." Leaving Deuel our direction changes to the north west, rolling through the sand hills for about ten miles, when we again turn to the west. If the sky is clear the first glimpse of the Rocky mountains can be had, with Long's peak as the central figure. Rolling along across a broad stretch of bottom land, which pro- duces a-large amount of hay in payment of the labors of a few stock- raisers who live along the road, we come opposite Fremont's Orchard — Named for Col. Fremont, the "Path- finder, ' ' who visited this region in one of his exploring expeditions. This "orchard" — before the woodsman's ax played havoc — consisted of a large grove of cottonwood trees, on the south side of the river, back of which are high, sandy bluffs. From Fort Morgan, the "river road" to Denver kept along the south bank of the Platte to the "orchard," where it was turned over the sand hills by the river washing the base of the perpendic- ular bluffs. Here the emigrant and freighter experienced similar difficulties, trials and dangers to those at O'Fallon's Bluffs, as the silent graves of many scattered about the orchard can attest. Crossing the Platte river 34 miles from Deuel, the town of Greeley can be discerned 15 miles away, to the north of west, sit- ting almost obscured in a grove of trees. Fifteen miles from the river crossing our train stops at LilSjlllt' — [From Denver, 46 miles; Omaha, 526 miles; Greeley, five miles; Cheyenne, 73 miles; elevation, 4,663 feet]. — Is situated at the junc- tion of the "Short Line" and Denver Pacific branch, which runs from Denver to Cheyenne. We shall particularly note this line hereafter, commencing on page 101. Our train now takes the track of the Denver Pacific branch, and runs parallel with the mountains, affording magnificent views all the way to Denver, 40 miles. The country is thickly settled all along the line. There are several small stations, and much land under cultivation, mostly in alfalfa hay. 36 BEE-HIVE GEYSER. BEE-HIVE GEYSER, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Five miles before reaching Denver,. we cross Sand creek, and the track of the Burlington road. Directly opposite, on the west side of the Platte river, comes down Clear creek from the moun- tains, at the base of which — see the cloud of smoke? — is Golden, the " Ivowell of Colorado." Proceeding, the Grant and Holden smelters are close on the right, while " Argo, " the great Boston and Colorado smelter, can be seen away across the river, on the high land, sending up a cloud of smoke and fire. Sampling works, iron foundries, machine works, freight yards, flour mills, grain elevators, gas works, lumber and stone yards, etc., etc., are passed in quick succession, when "Denver" is announced, and we stop at the Union depot. ggg" When we bring up that left leg of the Union Pacific from Kansas City, we will tell you all about Denver, and then take a run over the state of Colorado, noting many of the marvelous works of God and man. KANSAS CITY — A BOOMER. KANSAS PACIFIC BRANCH. Kansas City — [Pop., 165,000 ; elevation 681 feet]. — Is built on and around a series of high bluffs and ravines, on the south bank of the great bend of the Missouri river, just below the mouth of the "Kaw," or Kansas river, in Jackson count}', Missouri, the river being the boundary line, at this point, between the states of Mis- souri and Kansas. Prior to 18-49, the place was known as " West- port Landing," but in that year was changed to Kansas City. It then had a population — mostly traders, hunters and trappers — of 300. Its central location has from the first enabled it to control a large trade with the country to the west and the southward, which, since the advent of railroads, has grown to an enormous business. The Missouri Pacific was the Jirst railroad completed to Kansas City from the eastward, where it arrived October 1, 1865, since which time ig roads have arrived from different direc- tions, to bid for and share the business which often taxes their entire combined capacity. As a live stock center — cattle, sheep and hogs, and for slaughtering, packing or shipping — Kansas City has no equal in the western country. The stock yards, beef and pork packing establishments, which are immense, are situated on the bottom lands in the western part of the city, south of the Union depot, and are well worth a visit by the traveler. Boomer — Kansas City, since 1885, has made a record as a "booming" city, far ahead of any ever made in this country where the business and resources were not stimulated by mineral excitements. In 1885 it claimed a population of about 65,000; now, over three times that number. The great number of costly business blocks, palatial hotels, extensive manufactories, cable car lines up, over and around the hills, together with thousands of magnificent private residences, scattered about on the bluffs and in the secluded nooks, are almost incredible — are marvelous! Where now stands the largest and finest depot building in the western country, less than two score years ago stood immense cottonwood and sycamore trees, and thickets of underbrush, and pappooses, and squaws and Indians ; it was the Indians' home. He is no longer here ; he has gone! Where stood his " teepes " and " pony lodges," are now Pullman's palaces on wheels. Where the battle- axe, arrow and scalping knife once did a murderous duty in the adjacent county, now runs the plow, the cultivator and reaping machine. Yes! and the blood-stained soil of even a later date, now is occupied by a class of the most law abiding and prosperous people. Where once lurked cunning red savages, and white ruffianism and murder was rampant, now are schools, and the twin children of ignorance and scoundrelism have been forever "wiped out." God bless the common schools! they are the germs of true civilization, but their establishment in the west have often been preceded by the civilizing influences of a vigilance committee. Kansas City is not lacking in modern improvements— cathedrals, churches, schools, opera houses, theatres, board of trade, daily papers, cable and horse railroads, hotels, and electricity in various forms. 38 JUST A EITTEE HISTORY. Union Depot — This building is of stone, two stories, and is one of the largest and most conveniently arranged for the business in the western country. It is provided with large waiting rooms for ladies and gentlemen, ticket, telegraph, telephone', express and baggage offices, a large dining room, lunch counter, news stand, baggage check stand, etc., etc., on the first floor. The second story is divided into rooms, and is kept as a hotel, with very good accommodations; charges, $2 per day. I This depot is the arriving and departing point for all passenger trains at Kansas City. Wyandotte, Kansas, is situated on the sloping bluffs just across the Kansas river, and might well be called a suburb of Kansas City. It is connected by motor cars, has a population of about le>,000, many of whom do business in Kansas City, and have their homes in Wyandotte. The city is on a portion of the lands once owned by the Delaware Indians, who sold them in 1842 to the Wyandotte Indians, the remnants of a tribe from the .state of Ohio. The lands adjoining the city are in a high state of cultivation, and large orchards of fruit are numerous. The Kansas v State Institu- tion for the Blind is located at Wvandotte. Connections — The principal railroad connections at Kansas City with the Pioneer Overland line are: Kansas City, St. Joseph & Council Bluffs; Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific ; Chicago, Burlington & Ouincy ; Wabash Western ; Chicago & Alton; Missouri Pacific; Kansas City, Fort Scott & Memphis; South- ern Kansas; Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe; Hannibal & St. Joseph; Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul; Burlington & Missouri River; Chicago, Santa Fe & California ; Chicago, Kansas &. Nebraska, and Kansas City, Wyandotte & Northwestern, Just a Little History — The Kansas Pacific Railway Co. succeeded the Leavenworth, Pawnee & W 7 estern, which was incor- porated by act of Congress July 1st, 1862. The route then pro- posed was up the Kansas river, from its mouth to the junction of the Republican, thence north to Kearney station, connecting there, with the L T uion Pacific. Work commenced at Wyandotte, Kan- sas, September 1st, 1863. By act of Congress July 2d,1864, the com- pany acquired additional rights, and again, by amendment of the original act, approved July 3d, 1866, the}' were authorized to change their route and build westward on the 39th parallel, up the Smoky Hill river to Denver, Colorado, thence to a junction with the Union Pacific at or near Cheyenne, Wyoming. The road was completed to Denver, August loth, 1870, and by the purchase of the Denver Pacific, in 1N72, to Cheyenne. By a sale in L879, the whole line passed into the hands of the Union Pacific Railway Co. Distance from Kansas City to Denver, 639 miles; to Cheyenne, 745 miles. « ohm- Willi lis!— All passengers at Kansas City for California, Oregon, Puget Sound and intermediates, via Colorado, Utah, Nevada and Idaho, will step into the Pullman palace cars, or superb coaches of the Kansas Pacific division of the Union Pacific railway, pass through the whole length of Kansas, and over 300 miles in Colo- rado, through Denver and Greeley, and connect at Cheyenne. Wyoming, with the "overland" train from Omaha. To note the history and record the prosperity of the Kansas Pacific division, and the country tributary, in the brief space allotted for that purpose in the "Tours", it will be impossible to more than indite a "telegram" of the most important matters, those of the greatest interest to the tourist or emigrant. LEAVENWORTH BRANCH. 39 Leaving the Union depot our train soon crosses the Kansas river and the Static LlNE, pass ARMSTRONG at the end of one mile, where are located the machine and repair shops of the Kan- sas division, and follow along on the west bank of the river, the bottoms of which are wida and covered with trees, with here and there a clearing. The trees consist of red and burr oak, ash, hickory, hackberry, cottouwood and sycamore. On the right the view is obstructed by high bluffs covered with brush or small trees. The stations for the first 37 miles are of little importance. Stranger creek, is crossed near Limvood — 28 miles out, where broad cultivated fields ap- pear. About five miles further the country fairly "spreads itself" and we get a. first view of the great rolling prairies of Kansas. - LawrtilCe Junction — [ From KansasCity, 39 miles; Leavenworth, 32 miles; elevation, 749 feet]. — Is a small station where the branch for Leavenworth cjunects with the main line. This road runs through a section of country the greater portion of which is under a high state of cultivation. There are a number of small stations on the branch — Fairmont being the largest, which has a popula- tion of 1,600. L.ejlvenwor11l — [Pop., 36,000]. — Is situated on the west bank of the Missouri river; settled in 1854, and is surrounded by a section of country of unsurpassed fertility. Leavenworth has all the met- ropolitan features of a big city — horse railroads, water works, elec- tricity, a big bridge over the Missouri, six railroads, large Catho- lic cathedral, and a goodly supply of churches, schools, banks, newspapers, hotels, and small manufactories. Fort Leavenworth — Is two miles north of the city — estab- lished in 1K27 — and is now the headquarters of the Department of the Missouri. Rail Connections— .Missouri Pacific; Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific; Kan- sas City, Wyandotte & Northwestern; Leavenworth. Topeka & Southwestern, and Atchison. Topeka & Santa Fe. Narrow Gauge — Here we find another branch of the Union Pacific — a narrow gauge track — which extends westward 166 miles through a very rich agricultural country, well settled and well tilled!^ The principal stations on this line, with their populations and distances between are: Valley Falls — [36 miles from Leavenworth, pop. 50]. HOLTON— fi 9 miles; pop., 3,000]. CLAY CENTRE— [92 miles; pop., 5,000]. MlLTONVALE — [Nine miles; pop., r. 000]. Length of road, bid miles. From Lawrence Junction it is one mile to Bismark Grove — fair and pic-nic grounds — and another mile to IjSlWreilCC— [Pop., 15,000; from Kansas City, 39 miles; Leavenworth, 34 miles; Topeka, 2.8 miles; elevation, 763 feet]. — The seat of Douglass county; named for the millionaire Lawrences, of Boston, Mass. The city proper is opposite the depot on the south side of the Kansas river, about one mile distant, reached by several fine bridges. It is situated in the midst of the richest and most fertile portion of Kansas, as well as being the most beautiful city in the state. The city has horse railroads and all the modern improve- ments. Settled in 1854. Raided by Quantrell's band August 21st, 1863, who burned the town, and murdered upwards of 100 unarmed citizens. 4(1 TOPEKA — KANSAS. In the southern part of the city is located the State University, on the summit of Mt. Oread, from which point you look upon a very beautiful landscape, dotted in all directions with hundreds of farm houses. Connections by rail are: Southern Kansas and Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe. Passing a number of small stations, all surrounded by thrifty settlers, 13 miles from Lawrence, we cross the Grasshopper river, upon which are located a number of flouring mills and small man- ufactories. The bottoms along the river are well timbered — oak, hickory, elm, ash, soft maple and cottonwood principally. The river unites with the Kansas opposite the old town of Lecompton, of " Lecompton Constitution " notoriety. Topt'ka — [Pop., 32,000; from Lawrence, 28 miles; Kansas City, 67 miles; elevation, 821 feet]. — The capital of the state of Kansas, and the seat of vShawnee county. Here passenger trains stop 20 minutes for meals. The city is situated on the south side of the Kansas river, opposite the station, one mile distant, and is reached by a substan- tial bridge, traversed by street cars, as well as a " bus " line and teams. The county is the richest and the lands the most fertile in the state. The Capital— Is a fine building, built of what is called in this country "Junction City marble," a white magnesian limestone found in many places in the state. It can be quarried in blocks from ten to 12 tons in weight, and when fresh from the quarry is very easy to saw. The capital cost $400,000. Connections by rail are: Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe; Missouri Pacific and Chicago, Kansas & Nebraska railroads. Kansas has an area of 52,053,520 acres, of which 18,000,000 are unimproved, awaiting settlers. Price of land from $1.25 for wild, to $50 per acre for improved. It has a school fund of over $2,000,000, and increasing. Two normal schools for educating teachers, the University at Lawrence and the Agricultural College at Manhattan. On the lines of the Kansas division of the Union Pacific there are 112 grain elevators with a storage capacity of 3,853, <>!Hi bushels, and 68 flouring mills with 234 run of stone; capacity, 5,780 barrels per day. Kansas is a prohibition state, but there is a large amount of liquor sneaked into and drunk in the state. St. Hary's — [Pop., 2,800; from Topeka, 15 miles]. — Is an important place in some respects. The Jesuit Fathers visited this place nearly 50 years ago and established mission schools among the Indians. More recently they erected here large educational institutions. One for females is known as ' ' The Seminary of the Sacred Heart. ' ' The building is to the north of the railroad, is of brick with stone trimmings, 100 feet front and four stories in height, completed in 1871. The college for males is adjoining, and can accommodate 1,300 students. The country is thickly settled around about. Corn is the prin- cipal crop, though much wheat and vegetables are raised. WaillCgO — [Pop., 1,850; from St. Mary's, 13 miles]. — Is the next place of an\' importance. It is a thrifty town, situated in the midst of a section of country well watered by small streams, very fertile and thicklv settled. MANHATTAN— JUNCTION CITY. 41 Passing St. GEORGE, another growing town of about 700 settlers, we cross the Blue river, and stop at Tlail lialf ;ill — [Pop., 3,100; from Wamego, 15 miles; elevation 957 feet]. Is the seat of Riley county. Settled in 1854 by a colony of Ohio " pilgrims," who purchased a small steamboat at Cincinnati, steamed down the Ohio river, and up the Mississippi, Missouri and Kansas rivers to this place, where they settled in what was then a wild Indian country, living on their boat until buildings could be erected. The evidences of their enterprise and thrift can be seen on all sides. The Agricultural College of the state of Kansas, and a kind of experimental farm, is located at Manhattan. Congress, in its benevolent wisdom, endowed this college with a land grant of 81,000 acres, most of which has been sold, realizing nearly half a million of dollars. The institution has 400 acres fenced and culti- vated; the greater portion is in vines and orchards of fruit of dif- ferent varieties. Connections — As noted heretofore under "Valley," the Union Pacific branch reaches Manhattan, from Valley station, on the main line in Nebraska, passing through Valparaiso, Lincoln, Beatrice and Marysville; distance, 190 miles. Other roads are: Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe, and Chicago, Kansas Neb- raska railroads The little town of Ogdensburg is reached in 11 miles, and one of some historic interest in the annals of the state, as being the place where the first territorial legislature, convened by Gov. Reeder, met to "save the country." The place was settled in 1856. Fort Riley — Is both a railroad station and a government post, five miles beyond Ogdensburg. The station is for the fort, which is situated to the right, upon a high plateau; established in 1852, in latitude 39° north, 96° 30' west. The post was first known as "Camp Center," being situated in the geographical center of the United States. The post is the headquarters of the Seventh cav- alry, Col. J. W. Foresyth, commanding, and is garrisoned by troops A, B, C, D, G, I, L, and M. JllllCtiOll City — [Pop. ,5,300; from Fort Riley, four miles; Kansascity, 139 miles; elevation, 1,021 feet.] — Is the seat of Davis county, situated at the junction of the Smoky and Republican rivers, which form the Kansas; it is surrounded by lands of great fertility, are thickly settled and highly cultivated. The city has the usual number of stores, shops, hotels, etc., found in a place of its size, and is grad- uallv accumulating wealth. The Junction City marble quarries, heretofore referred to, are located just to the north, under the bluffs. The Smoky Hill river comes in from the southward, and will be on our left for the next 47 miles — to Salina. The valley of the Republican is one of the richest and most productive in the state of Kansas. History runneth not back to the date of its first settlement by the Indians, but it does to the time when they numbered many thousands. It was their home- stead, his last rendezvous in the state, to retain which he fought the white man long and bitterly, but with the usual result; the Indian had to go. He went! Where once roamed his "pony herd" in thousands, now can be counted the dwellings of his suc- cessors in equal numbers; where once the Indian's beef (buffalo) 42 view in DENVER, cor,. ranged in untold millions, now range the white man's beef, cattle and sheep. The buffalo has gone! went with the Indians. Will the time ever come when the "successors" will be succeeded by a stronger and more enlightened race? Will they, in turn, ever be driven out and exterminated? ABILENE — SOLOMON, KANSAS. 43 Connections — The Junction City & Fort Kearney branch of the Union Pa- cific turns to the northwest from Junction City, and runs up the Republican valley. The principal towns on the line, distances apart, and populations, arc: From Junction City to CLYDE, 56 miles; pop., 2,150; CONCORDIA, from Clyde, [5 miles; pop., 4,000; Belleville, from Lawreuceburg, the junction station" eight miles; pop., 4,300. Besides the above, there are ten stations, many of which have populations of from 200 to 400. Also connects with the Missouri Pacific railway. After leaving Junction City for the west, a peculiar rock form- ation is noticeable on the right, along the summit of the bluffs, resembling a long line of fortifications. Another item we record for the benefit of the sportsman: F fathered game in great abundance is found on the prairies and along the rivers and small streams in Kansas, such as prairie chicken, quail, ducks, geese, snipe, plover, swans, cranes, pelican, and many other varieties. ABhIcHC — [Pop., 5,300; from Junction City, 24 miles; from Kansas City, 163 miles; elevation, 1,093 feet].— Is the seat of Dickinson county, a regular meal station for some trains, and one of the best on the line. Wheat and corn are the principal staples in this vicinity, yet all kinds of small grain and vegetables arc raised and yield bounteously. This station was the first cattle shipping point on the Kansas Pacific railway, it being the most convenient station to reach by stockmen driving over the "Texas trail" from the south where most of the cattle, received at Kansas City and other northern markets, were raised. From l.SliT to 1870 the number of cattle loaded on the cars, at this station each year, was from 75,000 to 150,000 head; but as the agriculturists crowded in, the cattle were crowded out, and we will find the stock range now far to the westward. We are now in what is called the "golden belt," so named for the wonderful adaptability of the soil for raising wheat and other small grains. These " belt " lands, it is claimed, commence near Junction Cky, and extend beyond Ellis — about 200 miles in length. Wheat -is the principal crop, and comprises about one-half of all the productions. Several years ago we noted a number of fields of wheat, near Abilene, of 1,000 acres each, one of 8,000, and one of 3,500. Soine years ago the settlers commenced planting trees and there are now to be seen many fine orchards of fruit in the vicinity. Connections by rail are: Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe and Chicago, Kansas & Nebraska railroads. SolOlllOIl — [Pop, 2,100; from Abilene, nine miles; elevation, 1,1 11 feet]. Is situated near the junction of Solomon and Smokv Hill rivers, in the midst of a fine agricultural section of country. Corn and wheat are the principal staples. Connections by rail are: Solomon branch of Union Pacific runs up the valley of the Solomon river, to the northwest, 57 miles to Beloit, an agricultural town of about 2,000 population. Minneapolis, the largest place ou the branch, is 23 miles from Solomon, and contains a population of 2,300 — agriculturists. Also connect with Atchison, Topeka & Sante Fe and Chicago Kansas & Nebraska railroads. Leaving Solomon and crossing the river of the same name, we soon reach an elevated plain, dotted in all directions with the neat little cottage homes of the settlers who are principally engaged in raising wheat and corn. NEW Cambria is a thifty little town of 250 citizens, eight miles west. 44 LINCOLN BRANCH. Salina — [Pop., 9,300; from Kansas City, 186 miles; elevation, 1,163 f eet L Is the seat of Salina county; settled in 1858. The surroundings are principally agricultural — wheat, corn, hay and general farm pro- ducts. There are a few small herds of cattle and sheep in the county, and some extensive quarries of gypsum and fire and pot- ters' clay; also several salt springs that are being volatilized for the production of salt; cottonwood, oak, ash, elm and box-elder, skirt all the streams. Farmers are planting black walnuts in large quantities. The town contains several large grain elevators, large business blocks, hotels, newspapers and stores and shops of all kinds. The Salina river is crossed just before reaching Salina. Connections by rail are: Salina branch of the Union Pacific runs south, 36 miles to McPherson, a thrifty town of about 2,500 population. It is situated on the line of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe; Chicago, Kansas & Nebraska, and the Missouri Pacific railways. The next largest town on the line is Lindsborg; it is situated on the Smoky Hill river, and the Missouri Pacific railway, 21 miles south from Salina and contains a population of about 1,000, mostly agriculturists. Lincoln branch of the Union Pacific was completed about the first of December, 1888. It follows up the Salina valley, northwest, to Waldo, 72 miles, thence westward to PlainvillE. Zurich, Millbrook, HoxiE to Colby, 205 miles. At Colby, a branch runs southeast, connecting at Oakley, 22 miles, with the main line. The Lincoln branch parallels the main line for the whole distance from 20 to 35 miles distant, running through the counties of Salina, Lincoln, Russell, Rooks, Graham, Sheridan and Thomas; the productions are principally wheat and corn. Also connect at Salina with Missouri Pacific; Chicago, Kansas & Nebraska, and Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe railroads. All along the rivers and streams in their region are belts of timber, consisting of oak, hackberry,elm, mulberry and cottonwood. Bl'OOliVillC — [Pop., 900; from Salina, 15 miles; elevation, i,2S6 feet]. Here are located the usual railroad repair shops of a division. The town is situated on the high rolling prairie, surrounded by settlers, mostly engaged in raising wheat and corn. Passing a number of small stations including Fort Harker, where a government post was located in 1867— now abandoned — v\e reach. EllSWOrfll — [Pop., 2,000; from Brookvllle, 22 miles; elevation, 1,471 feet]. It is the seat of Ellsworth county, situated on the north bend of the Smoky Hill river; settled in 1867. This was for many years a great shipping point for cattle, but the advent of the farmers has crowded the cattle-men— -further west. The town has some large stone business blocks, a good hotel, and many fine buildings. The large grain elevator is an evidence that wheat has taken the place of cattle. Passing a number of small stations, chief of which is Wil- son's — [Pop., 1,000], situated on the high rolling prairie surrounded with wheat growers, who do not grumble at their yield of grain per acre. Some claim 50 bushels. Near Bunker Hill, a place set- tled in 1871, by a colony from Ohio, are salt springs, lime quar- ries, coal, mineral paint and pottery clay. RllKMCll — [Pop., 1,800; from Ellsworth, 40 miles; elevation 1,765 feet.] — Is the seat of Russell county, settled in 1871, by a colony from Ripon, Wisconsin. It is situated about four miles south of the south bend of Salina river surrounded by rich lands, well settled and cultivated. HAYS — EWJS — KANSAS. 45 Connections— Mail hack three times a week to" the northwest, Fay, 12 miles; Fairport, five miles further. Also to the northeast, Woodville five miles; thence northwest, 16 miles, to Paradise, and nine miles to Tapley. The Victoria colony is located 16 miles west of Russell. Es- tablished by the late Mr. George Grant, a wealthy Scotchman, who bought 80,000 acres of the railroad lands, sold a portion to the colony settlers and retained a large estate for himself. The lands have a rich soil, are easy to cultivate, and produce an abundant harvest. The town and vicinity contains a population of about 1,200, the comfortable homes dotting the landscape in every direction, sur- rounded by well-tilled fields, horses, cattle and sheep. Hay§ — [Pop, 1,350; from Russell 26 miles; elevation, 1,936 feet]. — Is the seat of Ellis county, named for the government post established here in 1807, situated about half a mile south, on a high plateau. The citizens and settlers in the vicinity of Hays are mostly farmers. The county is well watered by the Smoky, Big Creek and the Salina; the land is rolling, of a dark rich loam, and is said to be perfection for farming purposes. Good building stone is abundant, and belts of timber line all along the rivers and small streams. Fort Hays — Is the headquarters of the 18th Infantry. Col. J. E. Yard, commanding, and garrisoned by B, D, and H com- panies. Connections — Mail hack: North six times a week, to Martin, 16 miles; Painsville, io miles, and Stockton, 15 miles. Also, northeast to Catherine, nine miles, twice a week. To the southeast six miles to Munjor, and 14 miles to Pheifer, 14 miles, three times a week. Southwest 12 miles to PALa- tine, thence west 12 miles to Stockbridge. EHiS — [Pop., 1,150; from Hays, 14 miles; from Kansas City, 303 miles; elevation, 2,056 feet]. — Is a regular meal station for all passenger trains, and the meals are above the average. Here the railroad company have the usual shops of a division — machine and repair shops. Next, after Abilene was abandoned as a cattle shipping point, came Ellis, and the agriculturists also came, have settled, have been successful, and the cattle-men have about all taken Philosopher Greeley's advice — gone west. Connections — Mail hack for the north, to Menoota, 13 miles; Amboy, seven miles; Cresson, three and a half miles; thence northwest to Heber, eight miles; thence northeast to Nicodemus, eight miles, and west from Cres- son to Fargo, ten miles, three times a week. Wa-KeeilCy — [Pop. ,550; from Ellis, 18 miles; elevation, 2,391 feet] Is another agricultural town, wheat being the principal crop. The railroad company have a very large depot building -here; it is 100 x 30 feet, 32 feet high, surmounted by a tower 50 feet in height. Connections — Mail hack: North to Happy, 12 miles, and Millbrook, ii miles, six times a week. South to Wilcox, 16 miles; Cyrus, seven miles, and Southwest, six miles, three times a week. Leaving Wa-Keeney, there is little to note ; emigrants are coming into the country, securing farms, building homes and rais- ing wheat, vegetables, etc. Some are making a success of broom- corn, but all are crowding the cattle-men, but we will find them yet. 46 WALLACE — STOCK-RAISING. Connections — At Buffalo Park, 29 miles, a mail hack runs south 13^ miles to Sloye, three times a week. At Grainfield, six miles, a mail hack runs north to Hoxik six times a week; also south to Goodwater, nine miles; Jerome, six miles; Farnsworth, seven miles, and Dighton, 16 miles, six times a week. At Oakley, 21 miles, the Oakley & Colby branch of the Union Pacific turns to the northwest, and reaches Colby in 22 miles, where connections are made with the Lincoln branch from Salina. At Oakley, a mail leaves for the south, to Cabbell, 13 miles, and Elkadek, 11 miles, once a week. At Winona, 21 miles, a mail leaves to the northwest lor Kuka, 15 miles, twice a week. At Winona a mail hack leaves to the southeast for Russell Springs, 13 miles, six times a week. ^\ allcK'C — [Pop., 300; from Wa-Keeuey, 99 miles; Lk uver, 219 miles; ele- vation, 3,286 feet]- — Is the seat of Wallace county, situated on the Smoky Hill river, and a rolling prairie, two miles northwest of Fort WALLACE, which was established here in 1866. For some trains Wallace is a regular meal station; is the end of a division, where the railroad company have machine and repair shops, and the usual buildings for officers. HfelP'Time changes at this place from " central " to " western." If your watch is central, or Chicago time, it will be one hour too fast here. Wallace is well provided with stores, hotels, banks, schools, churches and a newspaper. It has many latent resources, one of which is its stone quarries. With as good stone as Colorado, and over 200 miles shorter rail haul, why should train-loads of stone pass through Wallace for the east ? Stock-raising — We have seen the stock-men at Abilene, then crowded along out to Kllis, and finally to Wallace, and even here, the demon of the plow and sc3 - the pursues them. There are a few farmers scattered over the lands in this vicinity, but we are about at the western limit of their present operations. For some distance we have been on the border of the public cattle range, as evidenced in places of immense yards, chutes and side-tracks for the accommodation of the "cattle kings." The gradual march of the agriculturists on the trail of the stock-raisers in this country, argues a success for the invaders. The crowding process so peacefully followed will continue, and the time is not far distant when the common range east of the Rocky mountains will be a thing of the past. The stock-raisers of the future in these United States will need to own their own ranges, fence them, provide winter feed and keep less stock. The "round tips" and professional "cow punchers," will only appear in history and " yellow covers." The day when a few men can range from 20,000 to 150,000 head of cattle each over millions of acres of the public domain, is past. We fail to see why the fanner, lumberman and miner should be required to pay the government for lauds, and then be taxed upon them, when the stock-raisers can monopolize the whole grazing country and pay never a cent. Connections — Mail hack leaves to the southeast for Cocavne, 18 miles; thence east to Wilkinson, five miles, six times a week. From Wallace it is nine miles to the new station of Sharon Springs, named for a famous spring in the vicinity; eight miles to MONOTONY, very appropriately named, and 15 miles to Arapa- hoe, where we leave Kansas and enter the state of Colorado. FIRST VIEW — MIRAGE. 47 Cheyenne Wells — ten miles west of Arapahoe, is in the cattle range, but is not a very populous station. For some trains it is a regular meal station. Connections — A mail hack connects for Burlington, 35 miles north, six times a week. A second-line parallels the first, but a few miles further wist, forBELOlT, 26 miles; Okanola, ii miles; Tuttle, 15 miles; Friend, 17 miles, six times a week. I'Ml'Sl \ ie\V — [From Cheyenne Wells, 11 miles; Kansas City, 473 miles; Denver. 166 miles; elevation, 4,561 feet]. — Here, if the sky be clear, pas- sengers from the east obtain their first view of the Rocky moun- tains, 1.S4 miles distant from their base, and those from the west their last view. Pike's peak, the highest peak in view, is directly west. Kit CarSOll — [From First View, 14 miles; elevation, 4,273 feet]. — Named for the famous trapper and guide of that name, and some- what noted as being the place where the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia tarried to hunt buffalo, in January, 1872. It was a big limit, and it is said that the Duke killed 40 of the noble animals. And, by the way, we have been in the old buffalo range for the last 250 miles, but for the last 12 years none have been seen — they left with the Indians. Kit Carson is situated on the Big Sandy river near the junction of Horse creek. From this station, southeast 27 miles, is Chivington, named for Col. Chivington, who, in 1864, had a "little unpleasantness" with the Indians, resulting in over 400 of them departing this life for the "sweet-bv-aud-bv." ]UiragC — Is reached, after passing several other small stations, 80 miles from Kit Carson. It is named from that curious phenom- enon the mirage, \iuiiazli), which has often been witnessed in this vicinity. In 1860-8, the toil-worn immigrant, when urging his weary team across the cheerless desert, has often had his heart lightened by the sight of clear, running streams, waving trees and broad, green meadows, which appeared to be but a little distance away. Often has the unwary traveler turned aside from his true course and followed the vision for weary miles, only to learn that he has followed a phantom, a will-o'-the-wisp. What causes these optical delusions no one can tell, at least we never heard of a satisfactory reason being given for the appearance of the phenomenon. We have seen the green fields, the leafy trees and the running waters; we have seen them all near by, as bright and beautiful as though they really existed, where they appeared, too, in the midst of desolation, and we have seen them vanish at our approach. Who knows how many luckless travelers have followed these visions until, overcome with thirst and heat, they laid down to die on the burning sands, far from the cooling shade of the trees they might never reach; far from the music of running waters, which they might hear no more. Now, as onward we go, reclining on the soft cushions of the elegant palace car, (20, 30, 40 miles an hour, rolling over the once trackless prairie) we scarcely give a thought to those who in early days traversed this country parallel with our road, only 20 or 30 miles to the northward, and suffered so fearfully while crossing it, and perchance their bones were left to bleach and whiten on the scorching sands. How changed! THE CAPITOL OF COLORADO, DENVER. II IliJO — [From Mirage, nine miles; Denver, 104 miles; elevation, 5,027 feet], — Named for Mr. Hugo Richards, a Colorado pioneer. Until recently this was a regular meal station, and a villianous one. The change was a long time coming, but then, it is said, "the mills of the gods grind slow but sure." In this instance all old travelers over the "K. P." will ever bless the miller. Cattle Range — As we are now in the center of the great cattle range of the west it may be well to crack what to some may be an old chestnut — to the many, news. At this point we are in the midst of the finest grazing lands in the western country, or the world. They are about 200 miles in width from east to west, and 400 miles in length, watered by nu- merous rivers, small streams and springs. On this mammoth pas- ture ground range at will millions of cattle, sheep and horses the year round, without being fed with hay or grain, and receive only such care as will prevent them from straying beyond reach. The gramma, or "bunch" grass, is the most nutritious grass grown, and seems peculiar to this western country, being wholly unknown in the eastern states or the old world. It grows from five to 12 inches high, and is always green at the roots, winter and summer. During the fall the dry atmosphere cures the standing grass as effectually as though cut and prepared for hay. Its nu- tritive qualities remain uninjured, and the stock thrive equally well on the dry feed. In the winter, what snow falls is very dry, unlike that which falls in more humid climates. It may cover the ground to the depth of a few inches, but the stock readily remove it, reaching the grass without trouble. Then again, the snow does not stick to the sides of the cattle and horses, and melt there, chilling them through, but its dryness causes it to roll off, leaving their hair dry. BRANDS — ROUND-UPS. 49 In some portions of this great stock range a kind of white sage and grease-wood grows luxuriantly, on which cattle and sheep thrive in connection with the grasses. No drouths which have been experienced on this range have ever seriously affected the pasturage, owing to the peculiar qualities of the grasses indigenous to the country. So with storms; it has seldom happened that any are experienced that cause loss, and none ever do when the stock is properly cared for. On these ranges it is common for stock of many owners to range together, and a system of brands has been adopted by the association of stock-raisers and recorded with the county clerk in the section of country where the herds belong. The recording of the brand is a protection against theft and loss by straying, as each stock-man knows the brands in use on his range, and each endeav- ors to protect the others' interest. Dukbin, Orr & Co.— Cattle branded ^B ; also, some of them \B, and horses the same. Post office, Cheyenne, W. T. Eange, Bear Creek. " Round I'p "—One of the most important and interesting feat- ures of the stock-raising business is the ' ' round up. ' ' In the "free and easy " manner of raising cattle on the broad western plains, where the owner may not see one-half of his herd for six months at a time, it may be imagined that the restless cattle scatter almost from "Dan to Beersheba," and that extra effort is necessary when they are finally collected by the regular spring "roundup." Companies of herders are organized to "ride the range," to scour certain sections of the country, and bring every animal to a grand focal point, no matter to whom that animal may belong, or what its condition maybe. The old-fashioned " husk- ing bee," "'possum hunt," or " training day," is vastly outdone by this grand revelry of the herders. Mounted on their fleetest "cow ponies," the cowboys scatter out in all directions, gather in "everything that wears horns," and at night may have the property of a score of owners in one immense excited herd. Then, while a cordon of herders hold the animals together, representatives of the different "brands "ride into the herd, single out the animals, one by one, and drive them off to be branded or marketed. Moving along, day after day the scene is repeated, until the whole pasture country has been visited, and every breeder has had an opportunity to take an inventory of his stock. Of course the " boys" camp out, wagons follow the herd with provisions and blankets; the "round up" season, from beginning to end, being one of mirth and frolic, as well as of work. Paddy's description of a fiddle can't be beat: "It was the shape of a turkey and the size of a goose; I turned it over on it's back, and rubbed it's belly with a crooked stick, and oh! Saint Patrick, how it squealed." 4 50 DENVER — OF OL,D. Cedar Point — Eight miles from Hugo, is the highest point on the line of road, being 5,695 feet above the level of the sea. We have now all down grade, with only a few feet exceptions, all the way to the city of Denver — 104 miles. In this distance a number of small stations is passed, and many small streams, with cattle on more than a thousand hills. The mountain views while approaching Denver are very grand. If the day be clear Pike's peak can be seen 75 miles to the left; Long's peak, 70 miles to the right, and Gray's peak, directly in front, all set like jewels in the crest of the great " snowy range" of the Rockv mountains. Again our train rattles along the Platte river, the hum of busy life is on all sides, and in front, the Union Depot— Denver. This depot is a spacious stone struc- ture, 503 feet in length by 65 feet in width, two stories, with a tower 165 feet high, built of lava stone from Castle Rock, with trimmings from the quarries at Morrison and Manitou. The first floor is devoted to waiting-rooms for ladies and gentle- men, ticket, telegraph, telephone, express and baggage rooms, news, baggage check and lunch stands, barbershop, and " sample " room, besides a large dining-room where excellent meals are served at all reasonable hours at 50 cents. The second floor is used at present for railroad offices; but we understand it is soon to be changed and fitted for hotel purposes. The entire building is thoroughly ventilated, heated bv steam, lighted by electricity and gas, and has a thorough police system of its own. The entire management of the depot and grounds is under the vigilant care of Col. Trufant. ' 'Where TO Go ?" —is usually the first question to be decided by a traveler on arriving for the first time and desiring to stop over at any point. The hotels in Denver number three score and ten; boarding- houses and "rooms to rent," much more numerous. The principal hotels (rated by charges) are the Albany, Wind- sor, American, Charpiot's and St. James — charges, from $3 to $5 per day. The Markham, Capitol, Brunswick, Inter-Ocean, and many others from $1.50 to $2.50 per day. Boarding-house charges from $5 to $15 per week. Furnished rooms from $8 to $35 per month. Of restaurants, there are scores, from five cent lunch counter stools to the Elitch's palace. How To Go. — Street cars leave from the southern entrance of the depot for all parts of the city, passing all the principal hotels. By inquiring of the street car dispatcher he will put you on the proper car to reach any point desired. Public carriages can always be hired near the same entrance, also the Transfer Co.'s " busses " and wagons. Denver — of Old — Has a "phenomenal" history, and as romantic as real: The first settlement was made November 1, 1858. West Denver was laid out three days later, and on the 6th, less than 200 citizens held a meeting and elected a delegate to Congress, and on the 8th mounted him on the back of a broncho, and started him for the " states " — Washington — to get the " Pike's peak gold mines " DENVER — OF TO-DAY. 51 set apart from Kansas as a separate territory. The struggle for existence commenced in 1861. The mines were reported " played out;" the war divided the people; the grasshoppers hopped onto and devoured even-thing green; fire laid waste half the city, to be followed by a great flood sweeping out much that remained; then came the Indian war of 1804, cutting off supplies from the east, and all mail communications; murdered emigrants, burned ranches and smouldering ruins covered the route for 600 miles between Denver and the Missouri river. Every citizen was under arms, and block-houses for defense were hurriedly erected in all the exposed parts of the city. As if not enough to crush out the last spark of vitality in the citizens, came the announcement: "The Union Pacific railroad is building up Pole creek." This was leav- ing Denver over 100 miles south of the trans-continental line, and as Mr. Durant said, "IPs too dead to bury." 1 This was a crushing blow, and many abandoned the town, leaving their all, and joined tilt- army of railroad camp followers or contractors. (The writer was one of the last named, having " swapped " 1(50 acres of land, of what is now an addition to the city of Denver, for two yoke of oxen, and the Indians stole the oxen.) But that " crushing blow " did not crush; in fact it was the life of Denver. Those who could not get away, having large investments, and finding the trans-con- tinental railroad would not come to them, resolved to go to it. The citizens immediately went to work and raised $400,000 by sub- scription, then voted county bonds for $500,000 more. Soon "dirt began to fly" on the railroad graded to Cheyenne. The turning point was reached and passed, and we have now to glance at the Denver of To-4 feet out of 41 that range about 14,000 feet. The Alps, storied monuments of poetic legendary fame, cannot compare with these mountains in scenes of sublime beaut)' and awful grandeur. Here all the vast scene is before you; the pure air brings the distant mountains within one's vision, as though anxious that the whole grand beauty of the scene should be visi- ble at one and the same time. The mind drinks in the inspira- tion of the glorious vision at one draught, and filled with awe, wonder and admiration, the bounding heart almost stands still, while the eager eyes gaze on the grandest panorama in nature. From the top of Gray's peak, a morning scene of glorious beauty is unfolded to the visitor, such as one rarely sees in any clime, for nature in her wildest moods, has never excelled her handiwork in the almost boundless view spread out in every direction. From Alpine summits the tourist's gaze extends over one petty kingdom, to rest upon another; here the eye fails to reach the full extent of Colorado, and the far horizon closes in the scene by dropping an airy curtain, whose fleecy fringes rest on mountain peaks and vast plains in far distant portions of the same fair state. Snowy Range; — or the continental divide — extends north and south through Colorado about equal distances from east to west, rears far heavenward its serried peaks, from the east side of which the waters of numberless springs and the melting snows ripple soft- ly away as though afraid to venture on their long journey to the Atlantic ocean. On the other side the scene is repeated, only the waters reach the Pacific ocean on the west side of the continent. This "divide" is the apex, the center of the Rocky mountain range, the crowning peak of that backbone, whose iron ribs are represented by the many spurs that branch away in earnest sup- port of the whole grand mountain system. From this "divide'' range on range, gorge after gorge can be seen, interspersed with rugged peaks, which lend a peculiar wilduess to the scene. Far- away to the east lies the vast grayish expanse of plains, looking like some great ocean, its breast unstirred by the passing breeze, or rippled by a single prow; nearer still, along the streams as they tumble through the foothills, along the bordering mountains, nestling in the hollow and between the brown heights lie miua- ture prairies — patches of green — on which the sun falls in folds of glorious light, enveloping them in a flood of golden beauty. Small and insignificant as they appear when compared with the vast sea of plains beyond, they are really large valleys, in which are found the best grazing and dairying lands in the state. Parks — There are other valleys as seen from the mountain tops which prove on entering them to be both wide and long. They are known as the North, MIDDLE, South and San Luis Parks. Each is a great central park or valley in itself, .shut out from its neighbors by dividing ridges of rugged mountains, the only entrances being along the numerous water-courses, which have their origin in th,e valleys and surrounding peaks, and cut WAGES PAID IN COLORADO. their way through their prison walls while passing to the sea. The extent of these parks vary, the largest being about 80 miles long with an average width of 20 miles. The smallest of the num- ber will not exceed 80 miles in length, with a width of about ten miles. The Middle lies on the Pacific side of the "backbone," while the others rest on the Atlantic, their altitude being from 7,000 to 10,000 feet above the level of the sea. They are, in fact, great upland basins, the reservoirs of the debris which for cent- uries have washed down the mountain sides. Their soil is fertile, yielding wild grasses in abundance, furnishing food for vast herds of cattle, sheep and game. In some of these valleys fine crops of wheat, oats, potatoes and hay grow successfully. In Europe or New England, were such valleys found at such an altitude and in similar latitude, they would be worthless, barren wastes, probably regions of perpetual ice and snow; but here, settlers make their homes, raise some kinds of grain and vegetables for markets, cut hay and graze their cattle in summer on the abundant natural grasses, read the newspapers, vote the straight ticket, and are generally happy. Finally — Coloradoaus, as a class, are working and reading people, always busy, with no place for drones. Emigrants are received by old settlers and treated as friends, until they are found unworthy. The same might be said of business men and tourists. To all wage-workers and salaried persons, we would say: There is always work, of some kind, in Colorado for all those who honestly seek it, but the}' will need to make a name for honesty, sobriety and reliability when the door will be opened, to attain any position and salary that their abilities will warrant. But all should remem- ber, as the air is light in Colorado, to keep away from the gam- bling houses, bar rooms and bagnios, and you are all tight, visit them, and you are lost; maybe with your " boots on." Rate of Wages Paid in Colorado. — For the benefit of those who contemplate emigrating to Colorado, we have taken much pains to ascertain and compile a list of wages paid for serv- ices, covering nearly every occupation in the state. In this task we have been aided materially by the Leadville Her aid-Democrat. Assayers — per month. Gamblers — per day. Best men $125 to $175 j Day faro dealers £6.00 Helpers .so to 100 Night faro dealers 7.50 Boys....: into 40 1 Employes, other games... 4.00 to 6.00 Barbers — per week. Gas Workers — pet" month. Good hands 1S to 20 Stokers $iooto$no Commission hands, 60 per cent. Fitters goto 100 *Brick and Stone Masons. j Harness Makers — per week. Wages vary — 54 to 56 per day. Bartenders. Per month S75 to $ioo Butchers — per day. Slaughterers $3-5° to $4 Meat cutters 3.00 to 4 Charcoal — per month (and board) Good makers $16 to $20 Saddlers 24 to 36 Hotel Employes — per month. Clerks $30 to $100 Stewards 50 to 125 Cooks 30 to 100 Washers, etc 20 to 30 Teamsters 540 to $50 j Waiters 15 to 30 Kiln men .so to 60 : Chambermaids 20 to 30 Choppers, Si per cord. Laundresses 25 to 30 Cigar Makers. Porters and bell boys 15 to 39, Per 1000 moulds 5io " " hand-made 15 to 16 *Carpenters — per day. Best men J4.ootoS4.50 Ordinary 3-5°to 4.00 Clerks. Per month SSo to $100 Drug clerks 75 to loo *Dressmakers — per week (Includes board and lodging.) Jewelers and Watchmakers. Best men, per week $30 to $35 Laundries — per day. Starchers S2.00 to $3.00 Polishers, etc 1.50 to 2.50 Washers 1.50 to 2.00 Livery Stables — per month. Hostlers S.so to $60 Best hands 20 Boy 20 to 40 Ordinary 8 to 9 * Indicates a demand. 500 250 150 15° 125 120 3oo 90 So 3.00 4.50 1-75 4.00 $50 Mine Employes— per month. Milliliters $250 to 1,000 Superintendents 100 to Foremen 123 to Shift bosses 100 to Engineers 100 to Carpenters 100 to 'fiinbermen 90 to Assayers 125 to Miners 80 to Surface men 75 to In wet mines. S4.00 per day, S hours. Milliners — per week Sio to $20 Machinists — per day. Machinists $4.00 to $4.25 Boiler makers 4.00 to 4.50 Blacksmiths 4.00 to 4.25 Blacksmith helpers 3.00 Laborers 2.50 to Moulders 4.00 to Turners 4.00 Apprentices 1 00 to Foremen 5.00 Bookkeepers 3.00 to Newspapers — per week. Editors $30 to Reporters 25 to Solicitors 25 to 50 Collectors 15 to 20 Bookkeepers 20 to 25 Circulators is to 25 Carriers 5 to S Job printers 26 Job foremen js to 30 Compositors, per 1000, 45 to 50c. Foreman morning papt 1 Foreman evening paper. 2S Pressmen 20 to 25 Pressfeeders 10 to 15 Apprentices 5 to 6 Binders [5 to 20 Ore Haulers — per day. Teamsters .....$2.50 to S3.' 10 Contract price from 50c. to S3 per ton; depends on distance and state of roads. Plumbers, etc. — per day. Ditching £2.50 to $2.75 Teamsters 3.00 Foremen 3.75 to Bookkeepers 3.00 to Man and team 8.00 Plumbers 3.50 to Gasfitters 3.00 to Paper Hangers — per day. Decorators lo Ordinary hanging Painters — per day. Outside men $3.00 to $3.50 Inside men 3.00 to 3.50 Grainers...._ 3.00 to 4.00 Wagon work 3.00 to 3.50 Signs, per foot 35c. to 1.50 Job painting, 20c. per sq. foot for two coats. Caleimining 6c. to 8c. per sq. yard. Photographers — per week. Printers fio to $15 Re-touchers 20 to 40 Operators 20 to 30 Reception room, ladies... 7 to 10 Plaster ers — per day. Good hands $4.00 I" -' .50 Physicians — < Ordinary advice $2.00 Vaccination 1.00 . Day visit in city 3.00 Night " " 5.00 * Indicates 4.00 (..00 4-5° 3-5° Consultations with at- tending physicians 10.00 Mileage, out of city 2.00 Surgical operations from $50 to $500 Railroad F'mployes — per month. Office clerks $ 75 to $125 Cheek clerks 65 to 73 Warehousemen 50 to 60 Watchmen 50 to 60 Conductors 100 Brakemen 60 to ;<> Switchmen 60 to 70 Loc. engineers 100 to 130 Loc. firemen 75 to no Dispatchers 100 to 150 Section foremen 60 to 70 hands 45 to 50 Carpenters 75 to 80 Bridge builders 75 to 80 Car repairers 65 to 73 Inspectors 65 to 75 Machinists 75 to no *Servants (board and room I — per month. General housework $25 to $40 Woman cook 35 to 50 Saw-Mills — per month. Loggers, and board $45 F^ngineers, and board 60 to 75 Ratchet men, and board.. 65 to 75 Teamsters, and board 40 Head sawyers, $4.00 per day. Smelter Employes— per day. Feeders $4.00 Furnace men 4.00 Charge weighers 3.50 wheelers %.. 3.50 Slag-pot pullers 2.50 Shift bosses 4.00 Samplers 2.50 Roustabouts 2.50 Yard men 2.50 Teamsters 2.50 School Teachers — per month. Sup't in city $160 to J180 Principals 80 Primary So Intermediate 70 Shoemakers can earn from $20 to $25 per week. Surveyors — per day. Transit men £5.00 Chain men 3.00 Surveying city lots 6.00 Surveying mining loca- tion 10.00 to 23.00 Surveying experts 25.00 Tinners — per week. Good men $18 to >jo By job, laying tin roof, from S7.00 to $8.50 per sq. yard. Tailors— per week. Journeymen $23 to $35 Scale wages 20 Most of the work is done by the piece at an agreed scale of prices. Wagonmakers — $2.50 to $3.00 per day. City Laborers — $1.50 to S2.00 per day. Coal Miners — 60c. to 80c. per ton. Gulch Miners — $2.00 to $3.00 per day. Cattle and Sheep Herders — S25 to and board. Coachmen — $15 to S30 and board. Office Boys — S3. 00 to S6.00 per week. "Farm Hands — $25 to $35 per month and board. Dining-room Girls— S20 to $30 per month, a demand. I Passengers over the Denver & Rio Grande railway, via Royal Gorge, Marshall Pass, the Black Canon of the Gunnison and Castle Gate to Salt Lake and Ogden, and thence via the Central Pacific rail- road to California, will buy CROFurr'S Overland Tours No. ± It describes the scenery en route and all over the Pacific coast — both northern and southern California — Yosemite, big trees, geysers, vineyards, orchards, etc., etc. COLORADO SIDE TOURS. •">!) SIDE TOURS IX COLORADO. Side Twin* \w. 1 — From Denver to Clear Creek Canon, Central City, Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Middle Park and Gray's Peak. The only rail route that can be taken to these places is via the (narrow gauge) Colorado Central, branch of the Union Pacific railway. There are two regular passenger trains, each way, daily; one at 8 o'clock a. m., the other at 3 o'clock p. in. The morning train is the best to take. Sometimes Observation Cars are attached to the train, afford- ing wider and more comprehensive views than can be obtained from the car windows of the little cars. Leaving the depot our train moves northward, passing gas- works, elevators, machine shops and manufactories, a half mile to the bridge over the Platte river. Soon we commence to climb the rolling prairie and in two miles Argo is passed, where are located tbe Boston & Colorado Smelting works, owned principally by Ex-Senator Hill. Half a mile further a beautiful view can be had of Denver, which lies to the southeast, embowered in shade trees, with scores of churches, private residences, large commercial buildings and extensive manufactories standing forth in marked prominence. To the south is the range of the "Plum creek divide," beyond which, a little further to the westward, can be seen Pike's peak, peaking up far above all other surroundings. The Platte river and valley are close in the eastern foreground, beyond which are the broad plains, limitless apparently to the e3 r e, while in the western background are the Rocky mountains, the base of which is near, but the peaks and the range from north to south are only bounded by the horizon. Proceeding a short distance further, the valley of Clear creek appears suddenly to our vision. It is one of the most fertile in the state. The soil is rich, black loam, mixed with just enough fine sand to make it warm and epiick to give life to cereals or roots. For the production of all kinds of vegetables Clear creek valley is noted. Descending into the valley we cross the bridge over Clear creek and run along on its west bank to Akvada. a small hamlet, seven miles from Denver. Nearly opposite Arvada, to the south three miles, that big building is the Catholic college. < )ur course is now directly west toward the mountains, cross- ing Ralston creek and many irrigating canals — for be it known, these lands have all to be irrigated to be certain of raising a good crop — to the base of the Table mountains. These huge "Tables," the outposts or giant sentinels of the Rocky mountains, are 1,000 feet in height, nearly round, flat on top, well grassed, and at one time must have been one unbroken range enclosing a great basin above, where is now the site of Golden. Clear creek must have been very busy for a great many years to have cut such a tremendous chasm as the one we are now enter- ing. Rolling along past smelting, sampling and concentrating 00 GOLDEN — COLORADO. works, several manufactories and the railroad company's machine shops, we reach Golden, the "Lowell" of Colorado, 15 miles from Denver. iiiolricil — [Pop., 3,500]. — Is the seat of Jefferson county; was first settled in lN.>!t. Has important advantages as a manufacturing city from the abundance of water power afforded by Clear creek, which comes tumbling down the mountains, bisecting the town, giving power to a score or more of mills and manufactories of dif- ferent kinds. In early days the placer mines along the creek and in the vicinity supported the place, when these gave out coal mining and manufacturing took their place. The State School of Mines is located here — a noble structure for the purpose. The number of students in attendance is large and increasing, while the facilities afforded them for improvement and advancement, in theory and practice, are not equaled by those of any like institution in America. The county and public buildings, business blocks, church and school buildings, are very generally of brick with stone facings. Two weekly newspapers — the Glo6e.a.nd Gen. George West's J'taii- sciipt — are published here. The hotels are numerous, but not no- table. Water is conducted along both sides of the streets, and the trees bordering the walks add much to the beauty and comfort of the city. Leaving Golden our course is westward, directly for the moun- tains, which rise over 2,000 feet above our road, showing no en- trance only an impenetrable Gibraltar, against which our little engine seemed destined to butt; yet on it goes on a perfect tangent, straight for the towering bulwark, but just as it appears the crash must come, with no means of escape on either hand, the engine, with one long, loud blast of defiance, dodges to the left and skirts its very base directly for the river, but far above. The prospects now presented seem favorable for a bath, with the entire train and passengers for company. We near the brink, the waters thunder- ing far below; another blast, another whirl (this time to the right) and we are rolling around the brink of a precipice; another whirl, and our train is running back upon itself, having circled the moun- tain finger thrust out, as it were, to bar its progress. We are now in the mouth of the canon, and the huge fingers of the mountain are thrust out on each side, interlocking like the fingers of the hands. We follow the creek in its tortuous course — in places far above — and then on a level with its banks, beside perpendicular cliffs and beneath overhanging walls 1,(100 or more feet in height. The whole scene changes with every revolution of the wheels, and to be sure not to miss any grand views, one must keep alert and watchful all the time. From four to six miles above the mouth of the canon, placer claims were worked in 1859-60, but they have long since been abandoned. In those days the beavers did to the creek what many citizens living below are doing to-day. Eight miles brings our train to the first stopping place, Beaver Brook, named from a small stream, coining in 011 the left, down a narrow canon, up which, six miles distant, is located a saw-mill in a perfect forest of timber. The scenery at this point is grand — the CLEAR CREEK CANON. 01 mountains are fully 1,000 feet above the road, on either hand, and covered in places with a dense growth of young pine and spruce trees, presenting an appearance as wild, picturesque and romantic as one could wish. Leaving the station our road makes a 30-degree curve to the right, up a grade of 272 feet to the mile under a projecting spur of the mountain, which rises 1,500 feet above our train, while the creek is close on the right, and thundering along down its narrow rocky bed. Eek Creek, a side track for passing trains, is reached one mile above Beaver Brook, and we continue climbing up, up, be- tween towering mountain cliffs, in places clothed with evergreen, pine, cedar and spruce trees, with shrubs of various kinds, until we reach a point three miles above Elk creek, where the walls on the west side of the creek slope away, and our train rolls past Big Hile. Here the old Mt. Vernon wagon road comes down the mountain from the left, the grade of which in places is 3-4 feet to 100 feet. This road leaves the valley about two miles south of Golden, and after climbing the mountains via Mt. Vernon canon to an altitude of 8,000 feet, descends this "hill" and runs up the north branch of Clear creek to Black Hawk and Central. Many of the mills and the machinery used in these mountains, in early days before the railroad, were hauled over this road, and where the grades were the steepest, the wagons were eased down by ropes secured by a turn or two around huge pine trees beside the road. We remember the time where it took ten men, besides their teams, nine days, to lower down this hill one boiler, the weight of which was a little over seven tons. Those who grumble at the railroad, please take notice: The wagon road is still there — try it. Forks Cl'Cek — [Eight miles from Golden; elevation, 6,8So feet]. — Is the junction of North and South Clear creek. Here our train is divided. The route for Georgetown turns to the left, across the bridge, while that for Black Hawk and Central keeps to the right. As we have always had a desire to do right, we will keep to the right a while longer, and note the result. From this point to Black Hawk [seven miles] — and we might in- clude that portion from Floyd Hill to Georgetown, on the South Fork — nearly every foot of the creek bed has been dug over time and again, by miners in search of gold. Dams in many places have turned the waters of the creek through flumes, first on one side of its bed, then on the other, and the greater portion of the earth from surface to bed rock, from one side of the gulch to the other, has been dug and washed over by white men, and when given up by them has been "jumped " by the Chinese companies, many of whose people can now be seen daily washing and work- ing these old " placer diggings " over again. Two miles above the Forks is Cottonwood — A side-track — a milk ranch and a water tank. Hoiv convenient! Nearly opposite this station Russell gulch comes down, up which are located the old placer mines, so noted in 1859. A close observer of the working along the creek will get some idea of the methods adopted in gulch or placer mining. 62 BI.ACK HAWK — CENTRAL CITY. After passing the ruins of several old mills, by looking away up the mountain side on the left, can be seen the railroad track over which our train will soon be climbing en-route to Central City. It is the " switch-back;" observe it well. It is, to say the least, an evidence of what engineering skill can accomplish. Passing several quartz mills, samplers and ruins of abandoned works we cross the creek to the west bank and stop at Black Hawk — [Pop., 2,000; altitude, 8,032 feet]. — Gold in paying quantities was first discovered in this county at this place, by John H. Gregory, May 6, 1859. During tbe summer the great rush of gold-seekers commenced in earnest and the mountains were overrun with prospectors, every day bringing reports of rich placer diggings or quartz discoveries. Here the buildings, mills, churches, stores and residences are sandwiched in between the gulches, ravines, mines, rocks and pro- jecting mountain crags in the most irregular manner. Quartz mills are numerous in and around Black Hawk; the rattling of their descending stamps night and da}' speaks in thun- der tones of the great wealth of this mountain country, one of the immense treasure chambers of the American continent. All the citizens are engaged in mining directly or indirectly. A transfer stage connects at Black Hawk for Central, one and a half miles distant; fare, 25 cents; by rail it is four miles. Leaving Black Hawk we start on our zig-zag tour to Central, on the route above named. The ride is one of great interest. After proceeding half a mile up North Clear creek our train stops, the switch is turned and back it goes> but not on the same track. It is climbing the world at a rapid rate; now it is directly over the citv, then on the steep mountain side beyond; then thunders over high bridges that span deep and fearful chasms, and stops at the end of two miles, on the brink of a precipice 400 feet above the same road up which it came within the hour, quite near enough to reach with a sling and stone. Again forward and again climbing, now the track runs parallel with the other two, but each far above the other. Soon the train rounds the mountain spur opposite Black Hawk, but 300 feet above, then bears away to the westward, heading off deep ravines or crossing them on high bridges, over streets lined on each side with mills, stores and residences, the homes of the citizens. The views of scenery are the most varied and surprising; the changes are rapid and wonderful as those of the kaleidoscope, yet with all the scenic beauty of this western countrv within the reach of all, many of our people never visit them, but sigh for a tour to foreign lands. A few more revolutions of the wheels and the train is at Central C'ltj" — [Pop., 3, 400; from Denver. 39 miles; elevation, 8,503 feet; 471 feet higher than Black Hawk]. — The seat of Gilpin county. The Register-Call, a daily and weekly newspaper, enlightens the citi- zens on the news of the day, while the Teller and American hotels provide accommodations for the traveling public. Central has three banks, many quartz mills, numerous churches and schools, an opera house, and some fine private residences. The latter are scattered around about the hills, rocks, stumps and prospect holes, in the most irregular order. Central is the trading centre, for an extensive chain of mining camps or "diggings," which number from 20 to 500 inhabitants. IDAHO SPRINGS — COLORADO. 63 The ore veins of Gilpin county are all true fissures, and there are many shafts down to the depth of 700 to 2,000 feet. The peo- ple are generally prosperous — some rich — and the money has been made here. The froth, scum and driftwood of civilization inci- dental to mining camps have long since floated away to "new diggings," leaving a substantial class of citizens, any one of whom will tell you, with the greatest confidence, " Gilpin county is good enough for me! " The character of the gold ores are free-milling white quartz, and surface dirt. The Gilpin County Tram Railway — a two-foot gauge 12 miles in length — runs from a connection with the " Central," near Black Hawk — around the mountains to all the principal ore-producing mines — hauling coal, timber, lumber, ore, etc., to and from the mines, mills, and railroad. Connections — Mail hack: South, Idaho Springs, seven miles, fare $i, six times a week; to the north, Rollinsville, 12 miles, fare $2; Nederland, four miles, fare $2.50; Caribou, five miles, fare $3, six times a week. We will now return to the Forks, take the Georgetown train, cross the bridge and follow up South Clear creek. Soon the train arrives at a narrow gorge and a sharp curve in the road and creek, where one of those huge fingers of the mountain projects out, reaching over to within 200 feet of its tall brother on the opposite side of the creek; and as the train passes under this overhanging cliff, we enter a natural amphitheater of immense proportions. The mountain rises over 2,000 feet above the stream, which is here com- pressed to a rapid torrent, thundering at its very base. The space between these towering walls is barely sufficient for the creek and road; in some places the road-bed had to be blasted out of the moun- tain side. The scenery here and for the next few miles is very impressive. About three miles above the forks the road curves to the right into the widening of the canon, opposite the base of Floyd hill, down which comes the old wagon road from Bergens township. On our way up several old deserted mills are passed, and we will probably see some w r ork in the placer diggings along the creek. l<*1 our — A very interesting detour can be made from Buena Vista by taking either the Denver & Rio Grande, or the Colorado Midland northward, as follows: The country, as we proceed, is rough, broken and covered with scrub pines and cedars, sandwiched with sage brush and garnished with bunch-grass. Ten miles north from Buena Vista and we are directly opposite Mt. Harvard. GrailitC — [Pop., 100; from Buena Vista, iS miles]. — Was a mining town in 1861 and has had a number of ups and downs. It has now a few stores, powder mill, smelting works and "good prospects. " Clear creek reaches the Arkansas from the west — opposite Granite. On this creek only a few miles distant, placer mines are being worked and — reports say — "they are paying well," but the "placers" are about mined out in this section of country, and the stock-men have taken possession and are doing well. La Platta peak is directly west; altitude, 14,311 feet. Connections — Mail hack: West to Vicksburg, ii miles; Winfield, four miles, six times a week; also, northwest to Inter Laken, six miles; Twin LAKes, three miles, six times a week. Twin Lakes — the most charming, quiet summer resort in the mountains — is situated at the eastern base of the Sawache range of mountains at an altitude of 9,333 feet on Twin Lake creek, an important tributary of the Arkansas river. Hunter's pass is directly west, and Lake Creek pass to the southwest. The lower lake covers 1,525 and the upper 475 acres, the length being about double the width. The upper lake is about five feet the higher, connected by a small stream, which ripples over a pebby bottom clear, pure and cold, half a mile in length through grassy meadow lands studded with scattering shade trees, affording delightful grounds for campers or picnic parties. The surround- ings are most grand and beautiful. Just to the head of the lakes on the north stands Mt. Elbert, uncovered except by a mantle of snow, in respect for the beauties on every side, at an altitude of 14,360 feet, or 5,027 feet above the level of the lakes. To the south, opposite, are the Twin peaks and Grizzly, some less in altitude, but none the less beautiful in their varied coloring of green, gray and gold. The lakes lie in a general direction from east to west; on the south side the mountains rise from the water's edge, covered with pine, spruce, aspen trees and shrubs, extending to the timber-line, where game of all kinds is abundant, including the grizzly bear, mountain grouse and quail. On the north side along the shore is a good carriage road, and a grassy bottom, back of which the country is a rolling prairie, with bluffs near the base of the mountains covered with a scrubby growth of pine and cedar trees. The accommodations for tourists consist of five hotels and a number of small cottages. The lakes abound in trout. Boats and tackle are provided at the hotels, and those that could not be happy at Twin Lakes we fear will find the great hereafter an uncomfortable abiding place. Besides the hotels and cottages the place has a post office, store, restaurants and saloons, and to the westward some good "prospects" for minerals — gold and silver. Resident population about 250, many of whom are engaged in the mines. Had the Pilgrims landed on the Pacific coast instead of Plymouth Rock, that old "blarney stone" would now be surrounded by the native nomadic races. HORTENSES — ST. EEMO. 77 From Buena Vista our train turns back to Schwanders, and branches to the southward, crossing the track of the Denver &Rio Grande railway in three miles and reaching the junction station of \ ill ll lO|> — [Eight miles, from Buena Vista].— This is a small station situated on the west bank of the Arkansas river at the junction of Chalk creek, which comes down from the west, and the Denver & Rio Grande railway. At Nathrop our course is directly west up Chalk creek, four miles to Haywards and one mile more to HortdlSC — [Pop., 200; from Denver, 142 miles; elevation, 8,169 feet]. Is noted for Hortenses. Here are the famous Hortense hot springs, and the Hortense group of mines, the Hortense post office, and the Hortense hotel, kept by Hortense. The Hortense mine is said to be a Hortense "bonanza", while the Hortense springs are recom- mended for their curative properties in. cases of rheumatism, etc. From a few miles west from Nathrop the railroad is built along the creek bank, with high bluffs on both sides, the distance grad- ually narrowing, until just above Hortense the contraction takes the shape of a mountain gorge, and well it may, as Mt. Princeton rises from the water's edge on the north to an altitude of 14,199 feet, while on the south and directly opposite towers Mt. Antero, 14,245 feet, while beyond only a short distance looms up Mt. Shavano, 14,239 feet; Chalk creek, our road and train make but a small thread in the landscape compared with such elevated sur- roundings. 1 Alpilie — [Pop., 600; from Hortense, six miles; Denver, 149 miles; eleva- tion, 9,247 feet] — is a mining town, hemmed in on two sides by lofty mountains, several of which exceed in altitude 14,000 feet, and upon which the "beautiful snow" can be found at all seasons. Sampling and smelting works, a bank, several stores, hotels and a weekly newspaper comprise the principal business of the town. The principal mines are the Murphy and Tilden, Living- ston and Britenstine groups. The ore runs from $50 to $125 per ton. St. liJlllO — [Pop., 550; from Alpine, five miles; elevation, 10,041 feet]. Is a mining town of great promise. Everybody here is engaged directly or indirectly in the mining business. The mines are all true fissure veins, the ore running in galena, carrying gold, silver, copper, iron and sulphide of silver. The town contains one smelt- ing works, besides the usual number of stores, hotels, schools, churches, newspapers, etc. w Capital can find here an opportunity for investment in legiti- mate mining, second to none in the state. There are a great many good mines in the vicinity, but we have not the space to particularize. Connections — Mail hack: West to Drew, 12 miles, and Tin Cup, three miles, six times a week. Leaving St. Elmo it is two miles to Romeey, and three miles to Hancock— [Pop., 250; elevation, 11,005 feet].— Is situated at the head of Chalk creek away up upon the eastern slope of the Sawache or the main chain of the Rocky mountains, in a little valley sur- rounded by towering snow-clad peaks on all sides, affording scenic views of great magnificence. Mining is the chief or only industry, and there are scores of valuable mines in the vicinity. WEST FROM TUK MOUTH OF ALPINE TUNNEL. See opposite page. One of the many little side tours that can be made from Portland, Oregon, is via O. R. &N. steamers up the Willamette river, through the locks at Oregon City to Salem, the capital, and to Albany. ALPINE TUNNEL. Continuing to climb three miles more, and we are completely hemmed in by the lofty mountains with no possible way to get out; just here is the entrance to the world-renowned Alpine Tunnel — This remarkable piece of work, the result of fine engineering skill and "Paddy's brawny arms," is 11,-596 feet above the level of the sea — above "timber-line" — above where trees and vegetation grow, or animal life is found; all is rock; little rocks, big rocks and the "rock of ages. " The air is pure and thin; here at times the charming mountain zephyr plays seduc- tive airs and anon the blizzard sports a round of pranks which tend to "bull" the stock of the inferno. Snow lies in perpetual banks on either side, but flowers in season, bright and fragrant, fill the frosty air with their perfume, and light it with their colors. Somewhere along the way the seasons embrace; for though it be summer in the valley it is not summer here — only as these flowery symbols sweetly defy the frosty nip. The tunnel, aside from its approaches, is 1,773 feet in length, 14 feet in width, and 17 feet in height, and with one exception, it is the highest point in the world reached by steam-cars, and that exception is in the South American Alps. In passing through the tunnel you are transferred from the Atlantic to the Pacific slope. The point of change is in the cen- ter, and the impetus tells the moment it is crossed. The engine, just before is groaning at its lift, now shouts in triumph, and the engineer sets her heels for the decent. The view from the rear end of the car while passing through the tunnel is quite an inter- esting one. The light on entering is large and bright, the smooth rails glisten like burnished silver in the sun's ray. Gradually the light lessens in brilliancy; the rails become two long ribbons of silver, sparkling through the impenetrable darkness; gradually these lessen; the light fades, and fades, and fades; the entrance is apparently not larger than a pin's head, and then all light is gone and darkness reigns supreme, and still we are not through, but grope on, and marvel, and hope. Suddenly we emerge from the tunnel, and a bright vision of beauty dawns upon us. The view takes in a vast extent of country. The San Juan mountains are to be seen 150 miles away to the southwest; Uncompahgre peak stands forth in great prominence a little further west — overlooking the cities of Ouray and Lake; the valley of the Gunnison is spread out directly west with the city of Pitkin only ten miles away. Turning now to the right that long black range is the Elk moun- tains, and in the foreground, Mt. Gothic and Crested Butte. Within the range of vision are many lovely valleys, large bodies ot timber, towering mountains, numberless rivers and sparkling streams, bustling cities, towns and mining camps, and dotted in all directions with the settler's industries, and freckled with his herds and flocks. Close on the left and rising perpendicularly, are the mountains along which our roadway has been blasted from the solid rock. {See illustration.) From the high shelf and palisade thus formed is an appalling depth, terminating away down in the valley into which there is a gradual, sinuous descent, while the near surround- ing natural wonders are indescribable. In the western mining camps you will often meet an illiterate millionaire in greasy buckskin, and a college graduate in rags. 80 GUNNISON CITY AND VALLEY. Descending with great caution, we pass the small stations of Woodstock, Valley, Midway and Quartz, and stop at PitRill— [Pop., 1,500; from St. Elmo, 21 miles; Denver, 174 miles; Gunni- son City, 27 miles; elevation, 9,180 feet].— Named for Ex-Governor Pitkin; situated on Quartz creek, in a little park gradually sloping to the southward, between two high timber-covered mountain ranges, which contain many rich and productive mines. The principal occupations of the citizens are mining, lumbering and merchan- dising. The ores carry both gold and silver. Pitkin is fully pro- vided with stores and shops of all kinds, a bank, two quartz mills, one sampling works, five saw-mills, good churches, schools and one weekly newspaper, the Mining News. The Commercial is the principal hotel. Surrounding Pitkin are a number of small min- ing camps tributary to it for business. Game of many kinds is found in the vicinity, and the finest trout can be caught from the streams for the labor of throwing a fly. Leaving Pitkin and following down Quartz creek, Ohio City, a small mining camp of 200 people, is six miles from Pitkin, from which it is eight miles to Parlill§— [From Pitkin, 15 miles; Gunnison City, 12 miles; elevation, 7,649 feet].— Is situated on Tomichi river, and consists of a hotel, grocery, blacksmith shop, and Parlin, one of the oldest settlers in this region of country. Stock-raising is the only industry in this vicinity except cutting hay and raising potatoes. Connections — The D. & R. G. railway and a mail hack south, to Cuerin, 20 miles, once a week. GlllllliSOn — [Pop., 3,000; elevation, 7,649 feet; from Denver, 201 miles; Salt Lake City, 445 miles] — is the seat of Gunnison county, and has become famous the world ever as the commercial center of an im- mense mining region; and as more eloquent pens than our "Faber" have sounded its praises throughout the land in well merited terms, we have little more to add than a plain statement of its present status, leaving out cold statistics and flights of fancy. The valley of the Gunnison, according to our geologists, was once a great lake the waters of which cut their way through the rim of the great basin, thus forming the Grand canon of the Gun- nison river, one most wonderful in all its features. The soil in the valley is a light, sandy loam, and resting upon about 25 feet of gravel containing small boulders, at the bottom of which water of the best quality can be obtained. Surrounding this great valley, from 20 to 35 miles distant, are high mountain ranges where are situated the rich mineral deposits, and from which flow the Gun- nison, Taylor, Ohio, Willow, Sapinero, West Elk, Beaver, Tom- ichi, and many other streams carrying an abundance of water, making this valley one of the best watered in the state. All these streams in their descent from the snow-clad mountains tend to one central point near the middle of the valley, where is located Gunnison City, which, from a geographical stand, is destined to be always the distributing point for the surrounding country. Along many of these streams vegetables are grown successfully, and wild grasses afford an abundance of hay that finds a ready market in the mining regions at good prices. On all the hills and in the mountains, the stock-raist rs find an abundance of of the richest feed for their cattle and sheep, of which the country is well supplied. BALDWIN COAI, MINES. 81 The altitude of Gunnison City is 2,456 feet higher than Denver, and 2,520 feet lower than Leadville. The city is located on a neck of land two miles in width, lying between the Gunnison river on the north and Tomichi creek on the south, about two miles above the junction of the two streams. The streets are laid out 100 feet in width, beside which streams of pure water are conducted and many shade trees planted, that in time will add materially to the beauty as well as the health of the city. For the benefit of those who might desire to stop over in Gun- nison, the La Veta house is the largest, finest and most complete hotel in Colorado, built of brick and stone, and cost upwards of $250,000. Many of the merchants of Gunnison City are of the most sub- stantial class, have large buildings of stone and brick, and carry very large stocks of merchandise of all kinds. Besides the mer- cantile class the city has two banks, an opera house, seating 500, a fine court building, several churches, three schools, three plan- ing mills, several saw-mills, a foundry and machine shop, smelting works, ore-sampling works, half dozen hotels, chief of which are the La Veta, Palisades and Dawson; two newspapers, the Review- Press and the News-Democrat, together with the railroad round- houses and machine shops, which add materially to the business of the city. Besides the great mineral wealth in gold, silver and precious metals tributary to Gunnison City, are her coal mines, .which are quite numerous. At Carbon mountain, 18 miles north, via Ohio creek, are large deposits of bituminous coal, which are mined and used in the city, and also in the adjoining towns. Anthracite coal is also found in several localities that is said to equal the coal of Pennsylvania. Then there are immense deposits of iron ore and quarries of marble, granite and sandstone. Timber is also abundant in the surrounding mountains, as well as game, both large and small, of all kinds; and trout — well, the Gunnison country is the trouts' home. Any ordinary tenderfoot can catch them. ■ Connections — 1). & R. G. railway and Crested Butte branch, 28 miles to Crested Butte, where are located extensive quartz and placer mines; also iron and coal and coke ovens. The South Park branch of the Union Pacific runs north from Gunnison City up Ohio creek through a settled country where wheat, oats, hay and potatoes are the principal crops raised, seven miles to TeachouT, three miles to Hinkles, three miles to Cas- TeeTon, and three miles more to Baldwin— [is miles from Gunnison city]. — Here are extensive de- posits of coal, owned by the railroad company, who use large quan- tities and ship more. From Baldwin a mail hack runs northwest to Mt. Carbon, six miles, and thence to Irwin, five and a half miles, six times a week. Having concluded the Gunnison tour we return to Denver. Ugg^For authentic information about, and descriptions of the Royal Gorge, Marshall Pass, the Black Canon of the Gunnison, Castle Gate and the Denver &Rio Grande railway, buy CROFEUT'S Overeand Tours, No. 2. The line represented in red on the map in this book covers that route and all over California. SIDE TOUR NO. 3 — BOREAS. Side Tour No. 3 — From Denver to Breckenridge, Leadvieee, Red Ceifk, Geenwood Springs to Aspen. Leaving Denver, as in tour No. 2, we follow the same route to Conio, 88 miles from Denver. From Como our route is to the northwest up Tarryall creek, through the old placers so famous in I860, and curving around on a spur of the mountains, climbing rapidly, we reach a point where the view of the South Park, Conio, Jefferson, Kenosha, Pike's peak and the front range of mountains is most grand, covering a great extent of country, plains, valleys and a bewildering wreck of mountains — worth a long journey to behold. Boreas — [Elevation, 11,470 feet]. — Is situated on the summit of Breckenridge pass, ten miles from Como, on the "snowy range," the "backbone" of the continent. Should a bucket full of " Adam's ale " be emptied on the summit ou this ridge, a short dis- tance from the station, it would separate, one portion finding its way to the Gulf of Mexico, and the other to the Gulf of California. There is little use for steam in descending the mountains for the next 12 miles to Breckenridge, except to manage the brakes, as we drop away in that distance, 1,946 feet, over 162 feet to the mile. The route down the mountain is most tortuous; surprises come thick and fast. Our train whirls into deep aud dismal gorges sur- rounded by firs and pines, ten-score feet in height, another whirl, and we are on the point of a rocky promontory wdiich rises sheer 500 feet above a parallel track below; another whirl, a grand detour, aud we are running back upon that parallel track; again we round a headland, tbe track is not there, it has dodged away up a long ravine only to double back upon itself, and so it goes. Four parallel tracks are to be seen at different times and places, rising one above the other on the face of pine-clad moun- tains, rugged in the extreme. At points on this wild zigzag run down and around the moun- tain spurs, the scenic views are most marvelous. Mts. Fletcher, Quandary, Buckskin and many other towering peaks are in view to the west and southwest, while to the north the view of Mts. Gray and Torrey and Powell are very fine. In rounding one of the many bold headlands, the valley of the Blue river is suddenly brought to view, together with the city of Breckenridge, and thousands of acres of old and new placer mines. [See illustration on next page.) During the season when work can be done, in nearly every ravine and gulch along the line of the road down the mountains where water can be stored for use, can be seen miners with their various devices washing the gravel and gathering the golden scales and nuggets for which this region of country is noted. Probably there is not another stretch of railroad in the world that runs over more wealth in gold than the line from Como to Breckenridge. BreeKeiiridjje — [Pop., 2,000; from Como, 22 miles; Denver, no miles; elevation, 9,524 feet]. — The seat of Summit county, situated on the Blue river, on the western slope of the Rocky mountains, and is strictly a mining town. GRAY AND TORREY'S PEAKS — FROM PASS. 83 . iiwlSlijiiiit ■111€- '„' ! *: ;, ! l' CROSSING BRECKENRIDGE PAH As early as 1859-60 this region for many miles around and about, where the city is now located, was known as the Blue river placer diggings, and many stories of wonderful finds are recorded. At that time the whole country was alive with miners. French, Georgia, Iowa, Hamburg, Swan, Buffalo, Illinois and other gulches to the east and north contained thousands of gold- miners. 84 KEYSTONE BRANCH — ROBINSON. In 1863-H I the placers were abandoned and supposed to have been worked out. The miners at that time knew nothing about hydraulic mining or quartz lodes and the old camps were deserted. From the time of the rich carbonate discoveries at Leadville, of 1878-9, dates a new era in the mining industry in Colorado. It filled the whole mountain region of the state with prospectors and the hnnt for rich quartz lodes and deposits commenced, and with what success the cities of Breckenridge, Silverton, Ourav, Red Mountain and many others stand forth as monuments — endorsed by milious in gold, silver, copper and lead added to the wealth of the country. Breckenridge has all the requisite trade, religious and educa- tional facilities and the latest improvements and luxuries of civili- zation. The Denver is the principal hotel, and the Journal and the Leader are newspapers published here. There are several smelters, mills and sampling-works near the town; also extensive operations in hydraulic placer mining. Breckenridge is surrounded by small mining towns and camps, whsre are located mills and extensive placer mining operations. Connections — Mail hack: East to Lincoln, four miles, six times a week. From Breckenridge our direction is northward, down the val- ley of the Blue river, past mills, canals and placer mining on both sides. Sixteen miles brings our train to I)i ckev. Here the Key- stone Branch continues down to Dillon, three miles at the junction of the Blue and Snake rivers, where it turns up the Snake eastward to Keystone, four miles, at the end of the track. Connections— At Dillon, D. & R. G. railway, and mail hack down the Blue river northwest to Colorow, 36 miles; Kremmling, ten miles; thence east to Troublesome, seven miles, and Hot Sulphur Springs (Middle Park), 12 miles, once a week. Connections are made at Kremmling with stages for the north and west. At Keystone, mail hack east to the mining towns of Monte- zuma, ten miles; Chihuahua, three miles, six times a week; fare, $1.50 and $2. Leaving Dickey, our road curves westward and then to the south into, and follows up Ten Mile Canon (parallel with the track of the D. & R. G. road, which extends from Leadville to Dillon), passing Frisco and WHEELER, both . small mining towns, and reach Kokomo — [Pop., 500; elevation. 10,642 feet] — in 17 miles. RohillKOll — [Pop. 500]. — Is one mile beyond Kokomo, both of which are strictly mining towns. They are situated on the eastern slope of Sheep mountain, with the valley of Ten Mile creek to the eastward, which is a half to a mile wide, and covered with a heavy growth of wild grasses. The scenery is grand. To the east and south rise mountains to great heights; the most prominent peak is Mt. Fletcher, 14,205 feet above sea level. In the background Sheep mountain rises 12,648 feet; to the north, Gray's peak. Game of many kinds can be found in easy distance, such as deer, elk, bear, grouse, quail, hare, rabbits, etc. The towns are well supplied with stores, shops of all kinds and many of the modern improvements of the times. There are three smelting works, one the largest in the mountains. The chief hotels are the Robinson at that town, and the Western at Kokomo. FREMONT'S PASS— LEADVILLE. 85 The quartz mines in the vicinity are counted up in the thous- ands, are all true fissure veins, and many very rich in carbonates, galena and sulphurites, averaging $180, and selected ore $800 per ton. Placer claims are also being worked in the vicinity, with more or less profit. Jsg^The railroad facilities of Kokomo and Robinson are fur- nished by both the Union Pacific and the Denver & Rio Grande systems, the latter via Leadville. The distance from Robinson to Leadville via the former is 17 miles, by the latter, 16 miles. The views of scenery by either route are equally fine. Remember This ! — From a point to the westward of Robin- son, reached in an hour's walk, a view can be had surpassing all words of description. We have shown that the scenery on this tour is grand and of great diversity, but in our opinion, the crowning attraction in all Colorado can best be seen from this point — to the northwest — the Mount of Holy Cross — Its summit is 14,176 feet above the level of the sea, and presents the appearance as illustrated on page 88. Xo tourist or person visiting Colorado from any part of the world, or any person possessing a soul to appreciate the sublime and beautiful in nature, should fail to visit and pay their respects to this grand old mountain and its immense great white cross firmly implanted amid the eternal rocks by the hand of the Great Maker, as it were, a perpetual symbol of purity, hope and redemption. From this same point many of the highest peaks in Colorado can be distinctly seen. To the eastward, Mts. Fletcher, Quandary and Buckskin; to the north, Gray and Torrey; to the southwest, Mts. Elbert, Massive, LaPlatte, Harvard and Yale; to the west, the Homestake and many others, including Aspen mountain. From Robinson it is three miles to Climax, a small station on the summit of Fremont's Pass; altitude, 11,292 feet, the second in height on this line. Soon after leaving the summit, close to the eastward Buckskin mountain rises sheer 2,004 feet above our head, and many lesser peaks stand forth, body guards, as it were, in bold array. Continuing our journey, winding in, out and around the moun- tain fingers thrust out towards a lovely little valley that we are overlooking on the right, 14 miles and the "carbonate camp," Leadville, is reached. (.leittlville — [Pop.. i\5co; from Denver, 151 miles; elevation, io.iy.5 feet] Is the seat of Lake county, and is one of those extraordinary- pro- ductions of a mining country — one of those places that from a lone cabin becomes, a village in a night, a town in a week, a city in a mouth, and a " booming " metropolis the first year, with number- less old prospectors, miners, capitalists, bullwhackers, stages, pil- grims, railroads, gamblers, thieves, and "soiled doves" directing their course to reach the neiu El Dorado with all possible despatch. Such was Leadville during the first year of its existence. Lead- ville was then one of the most cosmopolitan cities; there met and jostled people from every land and clime; the rich and the poor, the miser and the spendthrift, the scholar and the fool, the preacher and the bawd, the morose and the jolly, and the look of all seemed to say, " we are here for dollars, not for health.'' 1 86 EAGLE RIVER BRANCH— D. & R. G. Following this state of things Leadville had its ups and downs, caused by mining sharks, but at this time there is no city better governed or more permanently prosperous. Commercially and in population Leadville ranks third in the state. The city has many fine brick business blocks, water works, stores and shops in great variety, eight smelting and reduction works, four foundries and machine shops, a score of hotels (chief of which are the Hotel Kitchen, Grand Pacific and Grand), together with churches, schools, secret orders, electric light, tele- phone, etc., and three daily and weekly papers, the Herald-Dem- ocrat, Leadville Chronicle and Carbonate Chronicle. Of mining companies! Well, really, there are hardly enough figures to enumerate them or the mines in the vicinity. The mining loca- tions near the city number 30,000, and the out-put of ore is about 1,500 tons per day; but the production is from only about 50. The Leadville Trotting and Running Association has a half- mile track four miles west, with good buildings and is well fenced. The court house and post office buildings are flue structures, and would do credit to any city; then there are a great number of fine private residences. Of lumber yards there are ten, some of which do an immense business, each of which represents from one to three saw-mills in the county, besides buying largely in Chicago. The city is surrounded by a number of mining camps which are tributary for business, and add materially to its prosperity. The carbonate deposits about Leadville are enormous, extend- ing over a vast area, said to be 60 miles in length from north to south by 10 miles wide, yielding in silver and lead from $30 to si', I (Oil per ton. Leadville is situated on a gradual slope of the Mosquito range facing westward, and is six miles from the eastern base of the Sawache range, in which Mt. Massive is the central figure; alti- tude, 14,298 feet. At the base of this range are the pretty Ever- green lakes and several noted soda springs. California Gulch, of 1860-fame, comes down from the east- ern range of mountains on the south side of the city, along which are situated a number of smelting works and manufactories. This " gulch " was one of the most noted in Colorado in 1859- 62, during which years the placers yielded nearly 85,000,000, after which they were abandoned. Since the discoveries of carbonates, the old camp near the head of the "diggings" was christened Leadville. Companies have recently been organized, these old claims re-located, and preparations are perfecting to work over the ground by hydraulic process, but the scarcity of water is a great drawback. Connections— By rail with the Denver &RioGrande and the Colorado Midland. Leaving Leadville, via the Ragle river branch of the D. & R. G., our train winds around the city to the westward, reaching Malta (in five miles), a small station on the Arkansas river, at the mouth of California gulch, where are located the repair shops of the railroad company. Turning north from Malta we follow up the Arkansas river amid grand scenery, passing a number of side-track stations and reaching the divide between the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific in 16 miles, at TKXXKSSHR PASS — RED CUFF. Tennessee Pils* — Altitude, 10,418 feet — 323 feet higher than Leadville. Homestake peak is on the left, 13,073 feet altitude; and Chalk peak on the right, 12,600 feet — which together with a score of peaks of lesser height afford views of mountain scenery of the greatest variety. .Starting down Eagle river another 16 miles brings us to Re*lim — Is about the only station along the line between Red Cliff and Glenwood of any note, and that only contains a grocer)- store and hotel, with a few farm houses in the vicinity; but as a rendezvous and outfitting point for hunters, the Texas house is famous, as well as the surrounding country for game, and the Eagle river for trout. Gypsum is situated in a beautiful little park at the junction of Gypsum creek and Eagle river, on the south side, 42 miles west from Red Cliff and 26 miles east from Glenwood springs. 88 MT. HOLY CROSS — GRAND RIVER. mount of holy cross. — See pages £5 and 87. Grand River — The same we interviewed on Side Tour No. 1 at Grand lake — conies down from the right, seven miles west of Gypsum, uniting with the Eagle. The little town of Dotsero, is situated one and a half miles eastward on the Grand, above the junction of the two rivers. The graded track of the " Burlington " also comes down the Grand, and shows in places on the north side of the river all the way to Glenwood. GLENWOOD SPRINGS. 89 Grand River Canon — Is one of the wonders of this line. After leaving the junction the mountain walls on each side of the river gradually increase in height until at the end of about LO miles the)- rise in places from the river's brink sheer 2,000 feet. In places the sun's rays are completely shut out by overhang- ing cliffs, through which our train passes in tunnels. Many of the lateral canons, which are sprung upon our vision with lightning rapidity, are deep and dismal gorges. In these gorges and on the mountains where a root will hold are pines and firs and creeping vines, and flowers in season, which, in connection with the other surroundings, afford views of scenery surpassing all description. GlCIlWOOfl Spring* — [Pop., 1,500; from Gypsum, 18 miles; Leadville, 99 miles; Aspen, 41 miles; elevation, 5,200 feet]. — Is the seat of Garfield county, just below the canon of the Grand, situated in a little park at the junction of the Roaring Fork and the Grand rivers. It is a place of great promise, principally on account of the springs for which it has become noted. Some of the buildings are of stone and brick, but the greater number are of wood. Stores and shops of all kinds are here; also water works, electric light, telephone, etc., banks, churches, schools and hotels, chief of which are the Hotel Glenwood and St. James. The News, Chief and Echo are three daily papers published here. The land about the city is rather limited, but in places along the Grand and Roaring Fork are many thousand acres of good agricultural lands, some of which are under cultivation producing good crops of oats, potatoes and vegetables; grass in all the valleys, and along the streams is vigorous and abundant, producing a large amount of hay. Stock-raising is also an important occupation of the settlers in this region, but the chief attraction, and the one on which for its future growth the place must depend is its WONDER- FUL. springs. The springs are numerous on both sides of the Grand, and are of undoubted medicinal character. It is said all diseases of the blood, rheumatism and skin diseases are wonder- fully relieved and often cured. Some of these springs are very salt and too hot to bathe in. In one place where the waters run through a cave about 20 feet, a natural Turkish bath is afforded, where planks are laid to walk upon, and bathers can disport them- selves on the rocks. The hot, salt and sulphur springs are on the north side of the Grand river reached by a bridge, and are very numerous; some are close down beside the river, others are from 10 to 20 feet higher, with a great amount of crystallization all about them, the deposits of ages forming great basins from which the springs flow. Only a few rude baths are now here, but amply accommodations are making. The main structure will be 27o by 40 feet, and fitted up with porcelain tubs of the most approved kind; yet withal, the rheumatic, asthmatic, catarrhal and lung sufferers, without regard to age, sex, race, color or previous condition of servitude, do congregate here in large numbers. Coal — Both bituminous and anthracite, is abundant in the re- gion surrounding Glenwood, and is another great source of wealth. Connections— Rail: The Denver & Rio Grande, Eagle river branch, and the Colorado Midland, via Aspen; and it generally understood that both of these roads are extending their lines westward, but the exact route is still a problem. Stage coach west, down the Grand river to New Castle, 13 miles; Fergu- son, eight miles, six times a week. At Ferguson mail hacks connect for the north and west. ill) ASPEN — PITKIN MINES. Leaving Glenwood ovir course is now up the Roaring Fork — parallel with the Midland — southeast 13 miles to Carbondale, a small station at the point where Rock creek comes into the Fork from the south, where our train turns more to the left, and reaches Aspen in 41 miles from the Springs. Aspeil — [Pop., 7,500; from Leadville, 140 miles; elevation, 7,775 feetj. Is the seat of Pitkin county, situated on the northern slope of Aspen mountain, on the south side of Roaring Fork river near the junc- tion of Hunter, Castle and Maroon creeks. The old town of Roar- ing Fork is one mile distant on the opposite side of the river. The city contains two banks, a sampling and two smelting works, a number of stone and brick business blocks, stores of all kinds, several hotels (chief of which is the Clarendon), four news- papers — the Times, Democrat and Chronicle, daily, and the Sun, weekly; a theater, three saw-mills, electric light and telephone; good schools and churches, etc. Here are located some of the great mines of the state, and Aspeji is considered one of the most prosperous and rich of the mining towns in Colorado. The hills surrounding the town are filled with veins of silver. The ore from many of them runs to $1,800 per ton. There are also placer mines near the town that are rich, and are being worked with much profit. The developments of the Pitkin county mines up to this time have been of the most satisfactory character, showing that the rich ore-bodies are not confined to the group of mines which have made Aspen mountain famous in all mining circles. It is posi- tively asserted, and apparently thoroughly demonstrated, that a belt of country 15 miles in width, extending from the Mt. of Holy Cross, in Eagle county, southwest through Aspen to Ashcroft and Sandy's gulch, gives a great contact belt 30 miles in length of true fissure veins, besides the various rich mining districts of Cou- nuudrum, Sandy, Maroon, Lincoln and Castle creeks— enough mineral to sustain a wonderful out-put until the coming of the millennium. For years the great cry was tor a railroad. They have two now, the I). & R. G and Colorado Midland, and should be happy. Whether they are or not, they are shipping an immense amount of ore to the smelting works east, besides what can be smelted at home. Aspen is improving rapidly without "boom," and bids fair to make the most important camp in the state in population and wealth. In the vicinity of Aspen are quarries of beautiful red sandstone, which is largely used for building and flagging purposes. Along the river and creeks near and tributary, are some good ranches, where oats, potatoes and all kinds of vegetables are grown to perfection and find ready sale at prices that would aston- ish a New England farmer. Elk, deer, bear and many other kinds of furred and feathered game are abundant in the near mountains, and the trout snap at the bait in every little stream. Aspen is 28 miles due west from Leadville, "as the bird would fly," 40 miles by trail, and by rail (the way we camel, 140 miles. Bragging men only need to look into quiet, cool and determined eyes to get weak in the knees! They are cowards! Pig braggarts sometimes find their way into mining camps, but their stay is short! "Put up or shut up" is a requirement that must be met: CASTLE ROCK — PALMER LAKE. 91 Side Toiir Xo. 4 — From Denver to Colorado Springs, Manitou and Pike's Peak. There are no less than three different railroad tracks from Den- ver to Colorado Springs: The Denver & Rio Grande; Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe, and the Denver & Gulf. Besides these, the Colorado Midland uses the track of the Santa Fe, and the Missouri Pacific and the Rock Island those of the D. & R. G. As we believe in first love we shall take the D. & R. G. There axe Jive trains each way a day, so one can take their choice. Leaving Denver our route for the first 20 miles parallels the route taken on Side Tour No. 2, except that it is on the east side of the Platte. Passing the machine shops of the D. & R. G. in two miles, the second bottom lands of the Platte river are reached. Pike's peak is in view directly ahead, but 80 miles away. The Rocky mountains are to the west beyond that 15-mile belt of rolling prairie, and they will parallel our route the entire distance. To the east stretch the prairies, apparently limitless in extent. Eight miles, at Petersburg, is where gold was first mined along the Platte river — 1859; the gold was fine and difficult to save by the methods then in use, and the "diggings" were abandoned. Passing Littleton (two miles), an agricultural town of some pre- tentions, we cross the "high line" canal and commence to climb the bluffs which border Plum creek on the east, traversing a coun- try where stock-raising is the only industry. Ca§tle Rock — [ Pop., 250; from Denver, 32 miles]. — Seat of Doug- las county. Extensive stone quarries of volcanic rock are near the town, which supplied the greater portion of what was used for rough work on the Union depot and other buildings in Denver. Stock-raising is also an important feature at this place. The Owens is the principal hotel. The Journal is a weekly paper pub- lished here. Castle Rock derives its name from a huge castellated rock that is passed just before reaching the station, standing away up on the apex of a spur of the "divide" that here projects out into the val- ley from the eastward. Three miles from Castle Rock is the small station of Douglass, where there are more stone quarries; then three miles to Glade, five miles to Larkspur, four miles to Greenland and five miles more to PallllCr Ltlke — [Pop., 50: from Denver, 52 miles; Colorado Springs, 23 miles; Pueblo, 68 miles; elevation, 7,23s feet]. — This station is on the summit of the divide between the waters of the Platte and Arkan- sas rivers, on the western bank of the lake from which it derives its name. In altitude the station is 2,144 feet higher than Denver and 2,525 feet higher than Pueblo. The lake was named for General Palmer, the early promoter and president of the Denver & Rio Grande railway, and is a beautiful little sheet of water. For near a score of years it has been visited in summer by picnic parties from Denver, but not until 1880 was there any organized movement made to furnish ac- commodations for travelers and make it a pleasure resort. Nature had done much in climate, pure water, lofty mountains, lovely nooks, beautiful glens, deep canons, tall pines and shady retreats. 92 GLEN PARK — COLORADO SPRINGS. The railroad company have placed a substantial stone embankment along the shore of the lake, and in front of the station a neat and tasteful boat-house, stocked with boats. Streets have. recently been laid out near the station and planted on either side with shade trees, and an abundant supply of the purest water has been brought to the town from a mountain source in iron pipes, under a pressure that enables fountains to throw water to a height of over 80 feet. Beside these improvements the company furnish transportation by an even dozen passenger trains a day to reach this place. Then conies the Glen Park Association which secured Glen Park, a lovely place containing about 150 acres, within half mile of the station. The park is at the foot of the mountain range, and is sheltered in the rear by a towering cliff, 2,000 feet in height, and on the two sides by spurs of the range. With the association came their landscape engineer, who has taken advantage of every natural beauty, and studied the best topographical effect in laying out streets, parks, reservoirs, walks, drives, trails and lookouts. As a result many tasteful cottages have been erected, a hotel and an auditorium, with a seating capacity for 1,000 persons, and con- taining rooms for the association officers. The Glen house accommodates travelers in a first-class manner. Besides the trains of the Denver & Rio Grande, the Midland, Missouri Pacific, and the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe, each run four passenger trains a day, between Denver and Pueblo, via Palmer Lake. Possessing so many advantages Palmer Lake will doubtless soon become one of the most popular resorts of the kind in Colorado. The track of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe is on the east side of the lake. The country between Denver and Colorado Springs is occupied very generally by stock-raisers, yet there are a few persons farming. The lauds would all produce good crops with water for irrigation, but there is none, hence the cattle, sheep, etc. A few miles both to the north and south of Palmer Lake, high up the mountain side, can be seen long, rocky castellated ridges of white, brown and red stone, standing forth hundreds of feet in height, like huge sentinels continually on guard. Leaving the station, our train curves eastward around the lake, dodging a bold mountain spur, and rattles away down grade to Monument — [four miles; pop., 300]— Here are afew stores, several lum- bermen and a weekly newspaper, the Register. Between Monument and Colorado Springs — 19 miles — several unimportant stations are passed, and an occasional glimpse of Pike's peak can be had. Cattle and sheep are numerous, and a few fields and gardens appear. Occasionally on the right we catch a glimpse of some of those peculiar rocks which rise up in places in this vicinity on the sides of the hills to the height of from 20 to 50 feet. They are round and from three to ten feet in diameter surmounted with a cap, in one place resembling a Spanish som- brero. They are called by various names, but by the general name of "monuments," from which this valley and creek derive their naines. Colorado SprilJlJ*- [Pop., 6,500; elevation, 3.992 feet; from Denver 75 milts: Pueblo, 4.3 miles. Manitou, five and a half miles]. — Seat of LI Paso county. This city was laid out in July, 1871, and settled by the COLORADO SPRINGS AND ATTRACTIONS. 93 Fountain colon}'. It is situated on a high broad plateau to the east of and about one-half a mile above the junction of Monument creek from the north, with the fountain Qui Bouille, from the west. The citizens have erected some fine buildings, which include a college, churches, banks, schools, hotels, opera house and many private residences. The streets are 100 feet broad and the avenues 1-50 feet, with sidewalks 12 feet wide. Along the avenues rows of trees have been set out near the sidewalks and little streams of water are rippling along beside them, from the large canals built by the citizens for irrigating purposes. Colorado Springs, like Greeley, is a temperance town, so organized that parties purchas- ing lots forfeit their purchase if they sell liquor on the premises; and unless you can procure a physician's prescription, or know how to "stand in" with the druggists, not a drop of liquor can be obtained; but then the Manitou springs are only five miles away, and the waters are to be had at the hotels, where it is brought fresh every day, for the accommodation of the guests. The waters exhilarate, but do not intoxicate. There are several hotels; the Antler's, Alamo and Grand View are the principal ones. The newspapers are Gazette, daily and weekly, and Herald, weekly. The scenery viewed from Colorado Springs is exceedingly grand. To the west " Pike's peak " rises in - full view, from base to summit; altitude, 1-4,336 feet or 6,308 feet higher than the city. In the vicinity are some of the most delightful drives and rambles; Man- itou, five miles; Garden of the Gods, three and one-half miles; Cheyenne canon, five miles; summit of " Pike's peak," lomiles,etc. One finds here an out-door life agreeable and delightful through- out the year, there being few days when it is not pleasant to ride or drive. The livery service is excellent, and charges moderate, and since the natural roads are uniformly in order the scenic wonders of the region are viewed under the most agreeable circum- stances. This city has become of late one of the most attractive summer resorts in America. Here the tourist, invalid or pleasure -seeker finds an agreeable resting place, with every variety of interesting, instructive and charming scenery. The residents for the most part are cultm-ed people, drawn from all sections of the world. Most of the visitors at first express surprise to find a city the size of Colorado Springs in the heart of what they had expected to find the "wild west," that contained no saloons. Scenery and climate are not all the attractive features of a residence or sojourn in this city: the superior public and private schools are ample; the Colorado college offers a complete collegiate education, while in a gem of an opera house are often rendered the most popular operas and productions of the most celebrated authors known to music aud the drama. Connections— Besides the trains on the Denver & Rio Grande the Missouri Pacific. Midland, Denver, Texas & Fort Worth and Atchison, Topeka & Sante Fe. all run regular passenger trains daily. The Midland Railroad Co. in 18.S5 commenced the construction of their road westward from this place, via I T te pass and South Park, to— don't know, no " fella can find out; " but so vigorously was the work pushed that their trains were running to Leadville in 1887, into Aspen in 1888, and perhaps Portland, Oregon, next year. Quien Sabe? 94 MANITOU SPRINGS. It is generally understood that the Midland is an Atchison, Topeka & Sante Fe branch — however that may be, the Midland reaches Denver via the Atchison track. Colorado Cily — [Pop., 2,000]. — Is two miles west of Colorado Springs, and can be reached by either the Manitou branch of the 1). oc R. G. system or by the cars of the Midland railroad. Here was the first settlement in the "Pike's peak country" in 1858, and here the first capital of the territory was located. The town is situated on a high plateau, directly facing Pike's peak, on the north bank of fountain Qui Bouille creek. The car and machine shops of the Midland railway are located here, also flour and plaster mills. Valuable stone quarries are near, and large deposits of the finest hydraulic cement in the state. Where irri- gated, grain, potatoes and all kinds of vegetables grow to perfec- tion. Some fine fruit is also raised. Electric lights, telephone, etc., are here, also a weekly paper, the News. MailitOU — where are located the celebrated springs of that name, is in El Paso county, five miles due west of Colorado Springs. It is situated on Fountain Qui Bouille creek, at the very foot of Pike's peak, in as romantic a little nook of the mountains as one could imagine. This .Saratoga of Colorado possesses springs more renowned for their medicinal qualities than those of the Saratoga of New- York, while for climate and scenery, Colorado can discount New- York in the ratio that the sun would a "tallow dip." These springs are six in number, named Manitou Navajo, Ute- Soda, Shoshone, Iron Ute and Little Chief. Prof. Loew, of Lieut. Wheeler's exploring expedition, gives the analysis of the different springs as follows: THK MINERAL SPRINGS AT MANITOU. In 100 000 parts of spring water are contained — Carb. of soda of lithia of lime " of magnesia. " of iron Sulph. of potassa ... of soda Chlo. of sodium Silica 124.69 0.24 129.49 31.66 16.21 18.42 39 78 1-47 Total solid constituents. Gases Degree of Fahr 50.2 5626 0.25 1 1 1. 00 20.51 trace. 13 -AS 19.71 4o-95 2.01 23.82 trace. 40.00 6.10 1.40 trace. 12.24 13 93 trace. 88.80 trace 10S.50 59-34 trace. 59-04 10.50 508 7 01 30.86 3'-59 2.69 512 37.08 42.12 trace. 15.16 trace. 75-20 13.01 1 30 6 24 51.88 47-97 260.00 97-49 jS ' r ' J Free carbonic acid 56 1 (8.5 210.87 21 3-4 S (4-3 \Z The waters of these springs, the pure air and life-giving climate, the wonderful Alpine canon, valley and plains scenery, the hunt- ing attractions, the gathering of petrifications and fossils, together with the delightful rambles and refined society among the citizens and at the hotels, have made "Manitou, Colorado," known throughout the length and breadth of our whole country, and we might say the rcorld for that matter, as, by a glance at the hotel MANITOU — PIKE'S PEAK. 95 registers in the tourist season names will be found indicating visi- tors from almost every nation, land and clime, so widely and. fav- orably has this place become known. The scenery surrounding Manitou is immense and very beau- tiful. Some of the most interesting objects of interest, with their distances from Manitou, are: Garden of the Gods, three and one- half miles; Glen Eyrie, Queen's Canon, Devil's Punch-bowl, five and one-half miles; Cheyenne Canon and Seven Falls, ten miles; summit of Pike's peak, nearest trail, ten miles; Petrified Trees, 15 miles; Monument Park, with Mammoth Anvil, Dutch Wedding, Vulcan's Workshop and Dunce's Parliament, ten miles; Ruxton's Glen, Iron Springs and Ute pass, one and one-half miles. It is not generally known, but Manitou as a winter resort, has many claims worthy of special consideration particularly by inva- lids. It is sheltered from the cold northwest winds, which are the prevailing winds of Colorado, and being thus sheltered in a cosv glen is far more pleasant and comfortable than any of the towns and cities located on the open plains, where they are fair to the wind. The gravelly soil of Manitou is an insurance against alkali or disagreeable dust to irritate the throat and lungs; its admirable sewerage system, the pure still atmosphere, the bright warm sunshine, the finest mineral waters, the long enchanting twilights, the quiet seclusion (although within call and having speaking facilities with the whole outside world), and the equable climate, are advantages that when known will certainly tend to keep the hotels and cottages as full in winter as in summer. From the little log cabin of 1800, where the writer was wont to mix a little cream tartar with the water of the Navajo spring for rising his bread and "slapjacks," Manitou has grown to be a city, varying between winter and summer of from 500 to 2,000 popula- tion. Along the main street are stores and fancy shops of all kinds, and livery stables where the finest turnouts can be had to visit the attractions in the vicinity. The pure waters of Fountain creek ripple through the place, along the banks of which are many trees — cottonwood, pine, cedar and willow. Cosy little cottages peep out here and there from among the trees, rocks and gulches as though afraid their secluded retreat would be discovered. An ele- gant bath-house, recently erected, is a new attraction and consists of 18 bath-rooms provided with porcelain-lined tubs, used only for soda baths, and a plunge 32 feet square and four and one-half feet deep. The building is roomy and well fitted and furnished for the comfort and convenience of visitors. Many new buildings have been added to the town, several hotels erected and others enlarged, and yet, often the demand for accommodations exceeds the supply. There are now six large hotels, the Barker, Manitou, Mansion, Cliff, Sunny-Side and Iron Springs, besides several small hotels and cottages and boarding houses in scores. The Cliff is open winter and summer. Pike's Peak — Until recently has been reached only by pack animals over a tortuous trail, but during 1888 a wagon road was constructed which winds around the mountain on a zigzag but uniform grade. The company constructing the road ran carriages over it — when ordered by visitors desiring to make the ascent — With some a pass-ing acquaintance with a railroad man is an annual feast. 96 side; tour no. 5 — boulder. charges, $5 for round trip. Parties desiring can hire saddle ani- mals or carriages and drive themselves, to make the ascent, for which a moderate toll is charged. We shall not attempt to describe the views from the summit of the peak, as it is impossible to convey to the mind of the reader more than a faint idea of the extent and beauty of the scene. The ride up the mountain is a delight; the grand spread of plains, valleys and mountains affords views second only to those obtained after reaching the summit of the Peak. Game and Fish — Are not as abundant as formerly, but by go- ing from five to ten miles away, game as is game can be found. For fine trout take a run up over the Ute pass road, onto the South Park slope, and you will find every little stream is alive with them. Manitou can be reached by rail, by the trains on the Manitou branch of the Denver & Rio Grande — or the Midland railroad. 4»nrdeii of the Ciods — Situated midway between Manitou and Colorado Springs. It is a singularly wild and beautiful place, to which some poetic individual has given the title which heads this paragraph. Two high ridges of rock rise perpendicularly from the valley to a height of 330 feet, but a few yards apart, forming a lofty enclosure, which embraces a beautiful miniature valley, which seems to nestle here away from the gaze of the passer-by in a quiet, romantic grandeur. Returning to Denver we shall make one more tour and then take up the main line across the continent, via Cheyenne, Lar- amie, and Evanston. Side Tour .\o. 5 — From Denver to Boulder, Boulder Canon, Longmont, Estes Park and Fort Collins to Greeley. Each of the four cities above named are reached by two separate branches of the Union Pacific railway. Leaving Denver at 7:55 a. m., via the Marshall & Boulder (narrow gauge ). We take the route described in Side Tour No. 1 to Argo Junction, three miles from Denver, thence running north, crossing Clear creek and a broad ex pause of rolling prairie land well settled and cultivated, reach Boulder at 9:22 a. m. Boulder— [Pop., 4,500; from Denver, 30 miles, via Argo Junction, and 47 miles, via Brighton; elevation, 5,335 Ret]. -The Seat of Boulder COUIlty, situated at the entrance to the mountains, via Boulder canon, on Boulder river. Gold and silver mines in the mountains, great coal mines just south of the city, iron deposits, stone and lime quarries, agri- culture, horticulture aud stock-raising are the chief occupations of the citizens. Merchandising and all the usual occupations of an enterprising city thrive here, as well as the churches and schools. Three ore-sampling works, one smelting furnace, one iron fur- nace, two flouring-mills, one foundry and machine shop, and a score of smaller manufactories are located here. The American and the Brainard are the principal hotels. The newspapers are Herald, daily and weekly; the News and Banner, weekly, and the Sentinel, weekly. Connections— Mail hack: Southeast to Langford, six miles six times a we^ to the north to Altone, situated on Left Hand creek ten rmles, axtima Tweek to the northwest to Sunshine, seven miles, six times a week, west toNEDFRUNDiS miles, six times a week; southwest to Magnolia nine mnes three times a week. The sunset branch (narrow gauge) of the Union Pacific svstem™un^ Boulder river into the mountains, to Sunset, 13 miles, mSine // 1 route Orodel, three miles; Crisman, 111. three more; Gold Hill LiX? mile and Sugar Loaf in another, from which it is four miles to the end of the track at Sunset. 7 , - 98 UNIVERSITY OF COLORADO. The Sunset branch runs through a section devoted exclusively to mining and lumbering, and affords scenic views well worth a visit by the tourist. Boulder Canon — Has some magnificent scenery, besides be- ing the outlet to the valley for some of the richest mines in the state. In the drainage of this canon are located the Gold Hill, Sugar Loaf, Caribou, Pennsylvania, Snowy Range, Gold Lake, Ward, Central and other rich mining districts, containing numer- ous stamp-mills and reduction works, which yield a wealth of precious metals daily. The scenery of this canon is noticeably wild and romantic, even in a country where nature has been so productive of surprising natural wonders. On either side rise the lofty walls, from 1,000 to 2,000 feet in height, their sides covered with verdure, save in spots where the rocks stand forth in naked boldness. Through the canon rushes a noisy and turbulent stream, serving to enhance the attractions and break the solitude. Through its whole extent, a distance of 15 miles, the points of interest vie with each other in attracting the attention of the beholder. Three miles up the canon, and nearly encircled by it, rises the "Dome," a solitary and majestic mass of granite, 500 feet in height. Eight miles up is " Eagle Rock;" 10 miles, the " Falls," on the North fork, near its junction with Middle Boulder, whence they are reached by trail along the mountain side, a few hundred 3-ards distant. As the principal eafion views are not on the line of the railroad, it will be necessary for visitors to secure a carriage and driver at Boulder. Livery teams can be had to make a trip to the " Falls," ten miles and back, for $5, passing the most attractive feature of the canon. The University of Colorado — a noble institution, has a beautiful site upon the high grounds on the south side of Boulder river overlooking the city. The design of this school is to pre- pare teachers for the work of conducting the schools of the state, especially in the branches taught in the common schools. It is claimed that the climate at Boulder is all that could be desired — neither excessively warm in summer nor too cold in winter, and seems particularly favorable to the rapid development of the intel- lectual faculties. The Colorado Central — Branch of the Union Pacfic reaches Boulder via Arvada and Golden, winding around the Table mountains and foot-hills; distance, 3b' miles. The Boulder Valley — Another branch of the Union Pacific reaches Boulder via Brighton (on the main line 18 miles north from Denver), Erie and Canfield; distance, 46 miles. Leaving Boulder our route turns to the northeast over the broad prairies. IjOllJi'lllOIll — [Top., 2,000; from BouMer, ten miles; Denver, 57 miles; elevation, 4,935 feet].— One of the most important towns in Boulder county, is situated on the high prairie, sloping to the southward, about half a mile north of the St. Vrain river, the waters of which are taken out seven miles west of the town and conducted in ditches over the high lands on each side of the river, producing large crons of wheat, barley, oats, corn and other cereals. Wheat ESTES PARK — EONG'S PEAK. 99 ill large quantities is shipped from here, besides what is ground in three mills near. Wheat often yields 30 bushels to the acre; oats, 50 bushels. Brick • is largely used in building, and many of the private resi- dences and some business blocks are models in size and finish. The Post and the Ledger are weekly papers, and Zweck and the Occidental are the two leading hotels. The streets of Longmont are broad, laid out at right angles and ornamented with shade trees of various kinds, and well irrigated, as are most of the gardens and residence grounds. Connections— By rail: Denver, Utah & Pacific, "Burlington" system; from Denver, 33 miles; to Lyons, northwest, 11 miles. Turning north from Longmont, 11 miles, is Berthoud, a little station on Little Thompson creek, from which it is six miles to LoVClclIld — [Pop., 650; from Denver, 74 miles; elevation, 4,974]. Is situated on Big Thompson river. Connections — By rail: Buckhorn branch, northwest to Arkins, seven and a half miles; also, mail hack, west to Pinewood, 19 miles; Estes Park, 13 miles; thence to Moraine, five miles. Total to Estes Park, 32 miles, six times a week in summer and three times in winter. Since leaving Bo alder, we have passed over a succession of roll- ing prairie ridges, small mountain streams and irrigating canals, through a rich farming country where the principal industries are agriculture, horticulture and stock-raising. Most of these ridges or divides are sufficiently low to enable the ranchmen to conduct the water from near the mountains in canals all over the laud, and as the soil is naturally rich, the result is bounteous crops. Estes Park — [Elevation, 6,Sio feet].— Is one of the most delight- ful summer resorts in Colorado, but the stage ride from Loveland, 82 miles, deters many from visiting it. The park or valley is ten miles north of Long's peak, about six miles long by four and a half miles wide, hemmed in on all sides by towering mountains. The tall spruce and pine trees in the park grow sufficiently near each other to afford a beautiful and cooling shade in the hottest days of the summer. This is one of those places seldom found in the mountains, where all the greatest attractions can be reached and enjoyed within easy reach from good hotel accommodations. The hunting and trout fishing are par excellence. As for scen- ery ! there is no adequate language to describe it. From the summit of Long's Peak [altitude 14,270] the extent of vision would cover over 400 square miles, taking in every prominent peak in the San Juan, Sangre de Cristo, Sawache, Wind river, Uintah, and Rocky mountain ranges; but the ascent is difficult at best and sometimes dangerous, and should not be attempted except with ample outfit and an experienced guide. From points within easy reach of the hotel, views can be had of the plains and valleys to the eastward, including scores of cities, towns and villages, bounded only by the horizon. Foi't CollillS — [Pop., 2,000: from Denver, SS miles; elevation, 4,972 feet]. Is the seat of Larimer county, situated in the valley of the Cache-a-la Poudre, in the midst of great wealth in agriculture, horticulture, stock-raising, flagging stone, water-power, mills and manufactories. 100 BIRDS SING GOOD-BYE TO COLORADO. The county buildings, business blocks, opera house, banks, churches and school buildings and many private residences do credit to the taste and enterprise of the citizens. The State Agri- cultural College is located here. The Tedmond and Commercial are the principal hotels. The newspapers are the Cornier, daily and weekly, and the Express, weekly. Here and on this tour can be seen the effect of irrigation; with- out water no crops can be raised. An extensive system of irrigating canals and ditches conducts the water from the river over all the lands in the neighborhood and the most bountiful crops are raised therefrom. In summer picnic parties enjoy the cooling groves of cottonwoods along the river banks, and hunters and fishermen are afforded rare sport with the abundance and variety of game to be found in the mountains and streams within a day's "round-up." Since leaving Boulder our route has skirted the mountains affording scenic views of rare beauty, but here at Collins the view of the mountains and Long's peak, directly west, is very grand. What the city of Naples is to Mt. Vesuvius, Fort Collins is to Long's peak. Connections — Bv rail: The Fort Collins and Stout branch west to La- Porte, situated on tii§Cache-a-la Poudre river at the base of the mountains, three miles ; south to Stout, u miles, where are located extensive quarries of stone, large quantities of which are shipped to Denver and to the east— Missouri river cities. Also, mail hack northwest to La Porte, four miles; Livermore, i6}4 miles; thence southwest to Adams, eight miles; thence west, to Elk- horn, seven miles, and Manhattan, nine miles, six times a week; Fort Col- lins can be reached via Greeley on a branch of the Union Pacific. From Fort Collins, our road follows down the beautiful valley of the Cache-a-la Poudre, on the south side, through one of the most productive portions of the state to the town of Greeley, a beautiful place, situated on the Denver Pacific branch of the Union Pacific railway, between Denver and Cheyenne — of which more hereafter. figg" Passengers for Salt Lake City and beyond taking the Den- ver & Rio Grande railway via the Royal Gorge, Marshall Pass, Black Canon and Castle Gate should buy CrofuTT's Overland Tours No. 2. It covers the complete route represented by the Red line on this map. GOOD-BYE, COLORADO V; U1 ? AGAIN ON MAIN TOUR, 101 OVERLAID FROM DEMER TO €HEYEME, SALT LAKE CITY AND ALL OVER THE LAXD OF ZIO!V. At this writing there are two regular passenger trains leaving the Union depot by this route daily, and as a change of time fre- quently occurs, we shall not attempt to give the precise time of starting, but "time table folders" can be had at the ticket offices, and principal hotels. Pullman sleepers are run on all regular passenger trains — usu- ally those that come over the Kansas Pacific branch. " AH Aboard ! " — Our course is northeast, along the eastern bank of the Platte river gradually climbing to the prairie; a stop is made three miles out at the crossing of the track of the Denver & Eastern railroad, and again five miles at Sand Creek, the cross- ing of the "Burlington". SSri^hloil — A thrifty little hamlet, is reached in 19 miles from Denver. Here a branch of the IT. P. system turns to the left, crosses the Platte river and runs via the Erie coal mines to Boul- der, Longmont and Port Collins. [Trains are made up and run from Denver.] While rolling along down the Platte river on its eastern bank, it ma)' be well to keep one eye on those mysterious western moun- tains, as rapid changes often occur; storm clouds will appear sud- denly from behind some peak, as though by magic, and while the sun shines brightly in the valley, a grand view of a "storm in the Rockies", can be enjoyed with all the accompaniments — at a safe distance — maybe from 100 miles away. The other eye can note the effect of irrigation upon this gravelly, soilless laud. Water works miracles here. Without water for irrigation, these lands that now grow three crops of alfalfa a year, or ten tons to the acre, worth in Denver market slO per ton, would not afford sufficient nutriment to sus- tain one healthy goat. Passing several small stations of little note, LupTon, the site of an old adobe fort of "ye olden times, "and PlattevillE, our train stops for a drink at Ea Salle — The junction of the Omaha & Denver Short Dine branch, where we have been before — page 35. Leaving La Salle, our train turns to the left, crosses the South Platte river for the last time and stops at Evans— [Pop., 400; from Denver, 48 miles]. — This place was settled in 1871 by the St. Louis and New England colonists, who "by building canals and ditches from the Big Thompson river and con- ducting the water over their several thousand acres of upland, are 102 GREELEY — IRRIGATION. raising good crops of all kinds of grain and vegetables. Two miles to the north are located the fair grounds of the Weld County Agricultural Society, where annually are displayed the productions of Weld and Larimer counties. Three miles from Evans we reach the town of (JrCClCJ" — [Pop., 2,500; from Denver, 52 miles; elevation, 4,637 feet]. Seat of Weld county. Was laid out in May, 1870, by the Greeley colony, under the fostering care of the late Hon. Horace Greeley of the New York Tribune. The colony controls about 1(10,000 acres of as fine land as can be found in the state. Extensive canals and irrigating ditches have been built, and water from the Cache-a-la-Poudre furnishes an ample supply for all purposes. The town is situated on the Cache-a-la Poudre river, four miles above its junction with the Platte. When the colonists first set- tled at this place it was treeless, except on the river bottoms. The colonists laid out the town with broad streets, planted young Cot- tonwood trees on each side and led the water along near their roots. The cottonwood is a thrifty tree and the result has been Greeley is embowered in a forest of shade trees — in summer giving a cool and beautiful appearance. One noted feature of the town is the absence of all intoxicating drinks — none are allowed to be sold. The chief penalty for selling is a forfeiture to the city of the lot upon which it is sold. The public buildings at Greeley and the churches and educational advantages of the town are of the best. Stores and shops, banks, mills, elevators, fine business blocks and private residences, opera house, artesian wells, electric light, telephone, hotels, newspapers and all the modern improve- ments and airs of a progressive and independent people are here. The principal hotels are the Oasis and Exchange. There are three weekly newspapers, the Tribune, Sun and Howitzer. Gree- ley also has a Board of Trade, consisting of 125 members. Those who feel an interest in irrigation have a fine opportunity to note the methods in use here, and from Denver to this place, and for about 15 miles further on our journey. The results accom- plished by the use of water on the desert uplands of Colorado are marvelous, particularly if one will contrast the irrigated section above indicated with the appearance of the country beyond and above the canal lines commencing about 15 miles north from this place and extending the balance of the distance to Cheyenne — the soil is equal, but the water is wanting; with water the land is worth $80 per acre, without water not a ? Connections — Rail: Fort Collins branch (see Side Totjr No. 5). Mail hack, southwest to Hillsborough, 14 miles, twice a week. Proceeding north from Greeley and after crossing the Cache-a- la Poudre we climb the prairie seven miles to Eaton, in the midst of fine fields, where wheat, oats, potatoes and alfalfa are the prin- cipal crops. This is the home of Ex-Governor Eaton, of Colorado, whose enterprise and fostering care is evidenced by a flouring-mill, grain elevator and costly improvements. Leaving Eaton the higher prairie is soon reached, and for the whole distance to Cheyenne, 47 miles, there are only section houses and side-tracks of little interest. After crossing the line of the last irrigating canal north of Ea- ton, the country is given over exclusively to the stock interests — sheep principally. Here, too, can be seen at times an occasional CHEYENNE — FORT RUSSEEE. 103 baud of antelope and wolves, and many prairie dogs. The divid- ing line between Colorado and Wyoming is crossed on the summit of the ridge, nine miles south from Cheyenne— I Cont'd from p. j; ) CIlOyOHHO — [Pop., 9,000; elevation, 6,050; distance from Omaha, 516 miles: Denver, 106 miles; Ogden, 516 miles]. — Is the capital of Wyoming and the seat of Laramie county. It is situated on a broad plain, with Crow creek, a small stream, winding around two sides of the town. The land rises slightly to the westward. To the east it is apparently level, though our elevations show to the contrary. The soil is composed of a gravelly formation with an average loam deposit. The subsoil shows volcanic matter mixed with marine fossils in large quantities, and where water can be had for irriga- tion, will produce all kinds of root crops to perfection. Except gardens and "truck patches" along the bottoms of Crow creek, no land is cultivated in the vicinity of Cheyenne, stock-raising being the chief occupation of the people living here. The Capitol building of the territory is now being erected. The Union Pacific Railway Co. have just completed here a fine stone depot, and the "Burlington" has a very commodious building. The county court house is another fine building, as are many business blocks. A Board of Trade has done much for Cheyenne. An opera house, a great variety of stores, churches, schools, horse railways, electric light, etc., free public library, extensive railroad shops, beautiful public park, fine water works, sound banks, a race course, and fast "steppers," together with fat babies, beautiful ladies and a good bauk account are the boastful claims made for Cheyenne by her citizens. Yes! and we believe they iuclude the climate — possibly the gentle zephyrs. The principal hotels are the Inter-Ocean and Metropolitan. The newspapers are the Sun and the Leader, daily and weekly, and Tribune, daily; Live- stock Journal, weekly, and the Mirror, weekly. Great Centrae Works— We understand the question of building a great central machine and car building shops, which has been under consideration for several years by the Union Pacific Rail- road Co., has finally been decided upon, and Chevenne selected as the point where the great works are to be located. It is esti- mated that the works when completed will cost nearly $5,000,000, and will enable the company to build everything in the line of road equipments that they will need. Fort I>. A. Russell — Was established July 31, 1867, by Gen. Auger, and intended to accommodate 16 companies. It is three miles from Cheyenne on Crow creek, which washes two sides of the enclosure. Latitude 41 deg. OS min.; longitude 105 deg. 45 min. It is connected by side-track with the railroads at Cheyenne. The quartermaster's department — 12 store-houses — is located between the fort and the town, at "Camp Carlin." Several million pounds of government stores are gathered here, from which the forts to the northwest draw their supplies. The reservation on which the fort is situated was declared by the President June 28, 1869, and contains 4,512 acres. The fort is in command of Col. H. R. Mizner, and is the head- quarters of the 17th Infautrv, aud garrisoned by companies A, B. C, D, E, F, G, I and K. 104 TOWARDS NORTHERN WYOMING. FROM CHEYENNE, WYOMING. Side Tour No. 6 — From Cheyenne north, oyer the Cheyenne & Northern branch of the Union Pacific system. For lo! these many years the citizens of Cheyenne have been wont to range their bands of horses and herds of cattle in the country to the northward, for hundred of miles. During these years they have been hungering and thirsting for railroad com- munications, and have had a standing (donation) offer of county bonds to any company who would build the road. They found a customer and the construction commenced in 1884, and is now completed and running to WENDOVER, on the North Platte river, 12:! miles north from Cheyenne. Until a commencement of the road was made the whole coun- try along the line and tributary was occupied exclusively by stock- raisers. With the railroad-grader came the settler with his farm implements and irrigating canals. There are quite a number of pretty little valleys, as well as a very large proportion of table land, that is well adapted for agricultural purposes. At this date, the title of nine-tenths of all the lands is in the government and can be taken up under the general land laws. From Cheyenne there is only one regular train a day, leaving at 7:00 a. m., and this train is a ".mixed" train. It carries pas- sengers, mails and express, up and down; and merchandise, freight and freight cars up; and is liable to pick up cars of stone, cattle, horses, sheep, hay and iron ore on the return trip. "All Aboard!" — The general direction of the road is due north, but our track turns west and then northwest from the depot, and follows up Crow creek. Camp Carein — The government Q. M. depot is passed on the right in two miles, and one and a half miles further Fort Rus- SEEE, also on the right. Along Crow creek are a few settlers raising "garden truck;" large fenced grazing enclosures appear, also the Black Hill range of mountains ten miles away on the left. IsItlV — [From Cheyenne, 25 miles; elevation, 6,696 feet]. — Is the first regular station. It is situated on Lodge Pole creek, on the old Cheyenne Pass wagon road over the Black hills. A side-track, cattle corral, stock chutes and a few settlers near, comprise the station. The country to this point has been a rolling prairie, but for the next 50 miles is very broken but well grassed, with numerous springs and small streams which, with the shelter afforded for stock in case of storms, make it a paradise for the stock-raisers. Horse Creek — Station — [From islay, eight miles]. — Is situa- ted on Horse creek, one of the best trout streams in the country. Here are several stone buildings and monuments of stone, also cor- rals and chute for loading stock. Judge Milton Kelly, editor of the Statesman, ofBoise City, is one of the oldest pioneers in Idaho territory. A fine gentleman and an encyclopedia of general western information. NO. 3. **' At 0* SHOSHONG FALLS SNAKE RIYGR. Skk Page 1901 LRTEOURELL FULLS. See Page 228. IRON MOUNTAIN — FORT LARAMIE. 105 Leaving the station, meadows appear and fenced ranges, after which the route is very rugged and tortuous as we climb up to Alt UK — [From Horse Creek, six miles; elevation, 6,710 feet]. — Situated on the divide separating the waters of Bear creek and the Chugwater. Rolling down the Chug, seven miles, brings our train to Iron Mountain — Station — Near the noted Iron mountain, which is said to be almost pure metal and enough to supply the markets of the world for countless ages. It is reported to be owned by the railroad company, but there is no mining being done here at present. One and a half miles further on the left, are extensive quarries of stone; a rail track is laid to them to facilitate shipments which are made almost every day. The country is very broken but well grassed, and we might say, well stocked with cattle and horses. Passing KEUA' in 15 miles, a side-track station, with cattle chute, ranch and hay meadows, the bottom lands are all fenced, except- ing an occasional gap left to allow the range stock a passageway to the water. Some of the iuclosures are very large, taking in ex- tensive meadows where the stock-men gather a large amount of hay. Cllllg'IValCr — Station — [From Iron Mountain, 26 miles; Cheyenne, 71 miles; elevation, 5,278 feet]. — Is situated in the valley of the Chug, which is here about one mile in width, and is the headquarters and "home ranch" of the Swan Cattle Co., who own nearly all the land in the vicinity. Their buildings which are to be seen to the right a few hun- dred yards away, are very large and fitted up in the most conve- nient maimer. The company is said to own about 40,000 head of cattle, besides a large band of horses. Continuing down the valley a few miles CHIMNEY PEAK, a lone rock to the right, pecks up heavenward 190 feet. Bordeaux — [From Chugwater, 14 miles; Fort Laramie, 26 miles; ele- vation, 4,855 feet]. — Is situated on Chugwater creek in a widening of the valley, where are located a number of ranch farmers, sur- rounded with ha}' meadows and cultivated fields. At certain seasons this is a busy place, being a central shipping point for cattle. Connections — Mail hack: Northeast to Fort Laramie, 26 miles; Rawhide Butte, 20 miles; Lusk, 16 miles, six times a week; fare about 15 cents a mile. Fort Laramie — This fort was established August 12th, 1859, by Maj. W. F. Sanderson, Mounted Rifles. The place, once a trading post of the Northwestern Fur Co., was purchased by the government for a site for a military post. It was one time the winter quarters of many trappers and hunters. It is also noted as being the place where several treaties have been made between the savages and whites. The reservation, declared by the President on the 28th day of June, 1859, consists of 54 square miles. It is situated 110 miles northeast from Cheyenne, on the left bank of the Laramie about two miles from its junction with the North Platte, and on the old overland wagon road to Oregon and Califor- nia. Latitude, 42deg. 12 min. 3Ssec. ; longitude 104 deg. 31 min. 2f> sec. It is now the headquarters of and garrisoned by B, C, D, K and F companies of the 7th Infantry, Col. H. C. Merriam, commander. 10<> WHEATLAND — WENDOVER. Leaving Bordeaux our road gradually leaves the valley of the Chugwater to the right, and climbs up on to a high table land many miles in extent. Here we find the most extensive system of irrigating canals in the territory. They are owned by the Wyom- ing Improvement Co., and cost nearly $300,000. The water is taken out of Laramie river and the Sibylle in sufficient volume to irrigate about 78,000 acres of land. Only a small portion of the land is occupied. Here now is one of the best, if not the best, opportunity in the western country for those who are seeking a location for farming purposes. The elevation of the table is 4,737 feet, just 433 feet lower than the city of Denver, and 100 feet higher than Greeley. Wlieatlaild— [Kroin Bordeaux, n miles; elevation, 4,737 feet|. — Is a small station, situated in the center of the broad table land above described. To the northwest from this station 40 miles can be seen Laramie peak, a little to the west Rees' peak and Squaw mountains. From Wheatland we speed away over the plain on a gradual descending grade for six miles to Laramie river, cross over and stop at Uva — [Pop., 150; from Wheatland, seven miles; elevation, 4,461 feet]. The most important place on the road. It is situated on the north bank of the Laramie river and contains two stores, a hotel, several saloons, stock yards and a number of private residences. The river bottom is about half a mile in width, along which are groves of cottonwood trees. Connections — Mail hack: Northwest to Hubert, 12 miles; Labonte 35 miles; DOUGLASS, 16 miles. . Total, 63 miles, once a week. One mile north of Uva we leave the Laramie river and turn to the right, up and across the country, passing Buckhorn, a lonely side-track on the prairie, in nine miles, then drop down on to Cottonwood creek, cross it and a few miles further (ten miles from Buckhorn ) cross the North Platte river, and are at the end of the track at "Wcmlovcr — [Pop., 100; from Cheyenne, 123 miles; elevation, 4,434 feet]. Is situated on the north side of the North Platte river and con- tains a store, hotel, saloon and a number of private houses. The railroad company have a depot and freight buildings, a round-house and repair shop, and extensive cattle yards and chutes for loading stock. The railroad is graded up the river a number of miles, and will doubtless be extended to northern Wyoming within a few years at most. The river bottoms are nearly one mile in width along which are groves of cottonwood trees. Stock-raising is about the only occu- pation of the settlers'. Connections— Mail hack: Leaves daily on arrival of trains, northeast to Rawhide Butte, 19 miles; Lusk, 16 miles. Fare, about 15 cents per mile. Also four-horse coaches daily for Douglass, 50 miles; fare, 15 cents a mile. Returning to Cheyenne the Connections are— Rail: Cheyenne & Northern branch (see Side Tour No. 6); Burlington «S: Missouri River railroad. Also mail hack north to Little Bear, 51 miles, three times a week; northeast to Little Horse Creek, 44 miles; South Bend, six miles, three times a week, connecting at South Bend, north for Goshan, 12 miles; also at South Bend, northwest to Phillips, 25 miles, once a week. SHERMAN — ON BLACK HILLS. 107 J3@~ OXCE MORE— Westward ! Leaving Cheyenne we cross Crow creek, and commence ascend- ing the eastern slope of the southern range of the Black hills of Wyoming, which are stretching away in a long rugged line. Six miles west of Cheyenne, at Colorado Junction, is where the Colorado Central branch of Union Pacific turned off to go to Colo- rado before that company acquired the Denver and Kansas Pacific roads. The track turns to the left of the station and crosses the hills to the southward to Fort Collins and thence to Denver, via Lougmont, Boulder and Golden — now abandoned as far as Collins. After passing Bokie and Otto side-tracks, the heavy grade commences and snow fences and snow sheds will be numerous until we get over the "hills." At (irttllite < Jl IIOII — [From Cheyenne 19 miles; altitude. 7,310 feet]. Are extensive stone quarries, limestone and lime kilns. Much of the stone and lime used by the railroad company and in Cheyenne conies from this place. Water for the station is obtained from springs a short distance to the south, at the source of Lone Tree creek, a tributary of the South Platte river. To the north ten miles, is the site of the abandoned Fort Walbach, and the source of Lodge Pole creek. Connections — Mail hack: South to Box Elder, 12 miles, twice a week. Also mail northeast to Converse, six miles, thence west to Silver Crown, nine miles, twice a week. Some heavy rock-work now marks the line of road to Buford [ten miles], and beyond to the "Summit of the Mountains," which sign appears upon a board just before reaching SIliTMSSlll — [Elevation, 8,247, from Cheyenne, 33 miles; San Francisco, 1 ,365 miles.] — Named in honor of Gen. Sherman. On a high point j ust to the south of the station stands the great stone monument erected to the memory of the Hon. Oakes Ames and his brother Oliver, through whose energy and indomitable perseverance the Union Pacific railroad was completed in an incredibly short length of time, and whose "little memorandum book," of the former, paralyzed some great names. For the last ten miles the country has presented a wild, rugged and grand appearance; the levels and little valleys are covered with a fine coat of buffalo grass and clumps of stunted pines, and high, bold masses of rock rear their gray sides, piled one upon the other in wild confusion, while to the northward the pine-clad peaks of the Black hills are visible. Nearing, and at Sherman, the scene is peculiarly impressive, especially if it chances to be one of those days when the clouds float low down on the horizon; then the ob- server may look over the intervening space between the "hills" and the mountain range beyond, to the south and westward, and See naught but floating masses of vapor; no mountains, no valley, no forest — only fleecy shapes, and a long dark line rising above them, o'ertopped by the glistening summit of Long's peak. From Sherman, "as the bird would fly," Long's peak is south- west 70 miles; Pike's peak south, 165 miles; to the northwest Elk mountain, 100 miles. In a clear day all are visible. The maximum grade of the railroad from Cheyenne to Sher- man is 88.176 feet per mile. At Sherman the thermometer varies from 82 deg. Fahr. in sum- mer, to 30 deg. below zero in winter. 108 WINTERS AT SHERMAN. VIEW IN Till': YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. The Winters are not as severe at Sherman as many think neither is the snow-fall as deep as many would suppose from see- ing the great number of v Sno\v Sheds and Fences. Snow seldom falls more than a few inches in depth. It is not the depth of snow that causes any inconvenience to the working of the road, " but it is the drifting of it into the cuts during the heavy winds. For the purpose of p r cveuting this the sheds, fences and walls are erected along the road — the latter a few rods away from the banks of the cuts. The fences cause an eddy or current of air, which piles the snow along in huge drifts, keeping it in a great measure from the track. Snow sheds cover the deepest cuts along the road, where obstructions from the snow are most likely to oc- cur. The cold rains and deepest snows come with an east wind; the worst storms come from the southwest. Those who reach this altitude from near the sea level will at first experience some difficulty in breathing, owing to the light- ness and purity of the air; but, by becoming accustomed to the change, it will be preferred greatly to a heavier atmosphere. In an agricultural point of view the wild, desolate-looking landscape, the stunted trees, the rocks and bleakness, we fear would disgust an Illinois farmer, while one from New England would sniff his native heath and jump in ecstasy. There are places where the rocks rise higher, where the chasms axe deeper, where the surrounding peaks may be loftier, and the torrents mightier in their power ; but in no place will the tourist CROSSING THE BLACK HILLS. 109 feel so utterly alone, so completely isolated from mankind and left entirely with nature as at Sherman, on the Black hills of Wyoming. Trout — Are abundant in all the streams around the "hills." The tiniest rivulets swarm with them and their speckled sides glisten in every eddy. They weigh from one-fourth to two pounds and are of the finest species. Game — Antelope, black-tailed deer, some elk, bear, sage-hens, grouse, hares and rabbits are found in the mountains, hills, val- leys, and on the plateaus along the line of road for the next 31 » > miles. Connections — Mail-hack: South to Virginia Dale, 17 miles; thence south- west to Saint Cloud, nine miles; thence southeast to Alford, seven miles; and Livermore, nine miles, twice a week. Beyond Sherman for over 110 miles the railroad track is laid between the Black hills and the Rockies, presenting varied and impressive scenery at different points. Dale Creek Bridge — 650 feet long from bluff to bluff and 126 feet high, over Dale creek — is reached about two miles west from Sherman. From the bridge the little stream looks like a tangled silver thread as it glistens in the sun's brilliant light, which is sifted through the canon crags and iron netting of the bridge far down into the green little valley — a valley where at times can be gathered countless wild flowers of nearly every vari- ety and hue. Our train is now on the down grade — no steam required, Tiii Siding (six miles from Sherman ) is reached and passed,and we have the southern end of the great Laramie plains spread out to the west, almost at our feet; 20 miles in width, with the wondrous Rock\- mountain range rising from its extreme border — range upon range, peak overtopping peak, away up into the regions of perpetual snow, nearly 100 miles away. Red BltttC* — [Elevation, 7,300; from Sherman, 15 miles; Laramie City, nine miles]. — This locality derived its name from several ridges and peculiar formations of sandstone lying between the railroad and the hills on the right. Many of these sandstones rear their peaks from 50 to 300 feet above the plain, apparently worn and washed by the elements into wild, fantastic shapes and grotesque figures. Rocks, which at a distance might be taken for castles, rise side by side with the wall of an immense fort; churches rear their roofs, almost shading the lowly cottage by their side; columns, monuments and pyra- mids are mixed up with themselves and each other, as though some malignant power had carried off some mighty city of the olden times, and, wearying of his booty, had thrown it down upon these plains in bitter disgust. Some few only of these curiosities can be seen from the car windows and those are not the largest. The tourist stopping over at Laramie would find much of interest in this section to investigate. The Laramie River — Rises about 50 miles to the southwest from this station, on the eastern slope of the mountain — its source the eternal snow and innumerable springs — and runs northeast for 100 miles, where it empties into the North Platte river at Fort Laramie. A literary thief is meaner than a yellow dog. Crofutt'S Tours No. 2, is profusely illustrated, and all the principal objects of interest on the Pacific coast, south of Portland, Oregon, are described. 110 EARAMIE CITY — NORTH PARK. Northward is now our course, the abandoned Fort Sanders is passed on the right, and we see a meal station in the distance. I iill'il IIIH" C it J' — [Elevation, 7,149 feet; from Cheyenne, 57 miles; Omaha, 573 miles; Denver, 163 miles; Ogden, 459 miles; pop., 6,500]. — Is the seat of Albany comity, situated on the east bank of the Laramie river, on the broad plain. The town-site was located early in 1868, since which time its progress has been gradual and prosperous. Stock- raising is the chief industry. Cattle and sheep are fattened in this vicinity and shipped to eastern markets in large numbers; wool is also an important item in the exports. The railroad com- pany have an extensive machine shop, rolling-mill and spike-mill near the town. Large soda refining works are located here, the crude material coming over a rail track from Soda lake, 12 miles to the southwest, where there are millions of tons of soda; but bad management of the works is said to have paralyzed the busi- ness, for a time at least. Glass-works are also here, which are said to produce a very fine article of goods. Laramie supplies numerous camps of miners, lumbermen and ranchmen; has two newspapers, the Boomerang, daily and weekly, and the Soititiel, weekly. Has a good water system, fire depart- ment, electric light, etc., opera house, large brick business blocks, half dozen churches, ample schools, and in fact all the requisites of a stable and prosperous place. The Thornburg, at the depot, is the principal hotel. A saw-mill, planing-mill and a number of small factories comprise the industries of the town. Trees line many of the streets, and with the running streams near their roots, grow rapidly and present a cheerful and home-like appearance; in fact, most of the Laramie residents are here to stay. Laramie was the first place in America (1809), maybe in the world, where a female jury was impaneled. Their first case was that of a western desperado; they gave him the full extent of the law. At the session of the territorial legislature of 1886, the solons in dealing out "sugar," appropriated 850, 000 to build the University of Wyoming at Laramie, and the building is now being erected. Laramie Plains comprise a body of laud about 20 by 60 miles in extent. Agriculture is not profitable on these lands, yet it has been demonstrated that potatoes and hardy vegetables can be cul- tivated with success. Hay makes a good crop, but stock-raising is the chief industry. The Snowy Range, so-called, is the great backbone of the continent; it is covered with snow the greater part of the year, the highest peaks ever wearing their white robes, even when the passes are covered with flowers. This renders them very conspic- uous and easily discerned at a great distance, hence the term. North Park — This is one of the least known of all the great parks in the Rocky mountain system. Yet it has more natural advantages than any of the others. It contains about 300 square miles of the finest summer grazing lands in the world. Its eleva- tion is from 7,500 to 8,500 feet. It is enclosed by the Medicine Bow range on the east, the Continental divide on the south, and the Park range on the west, sloping gradually to the north. The surface is a series of undulating ground-swells to that of gently rolling hills and towering heights, that form an unbroken chain NORTH PARK — CRYSTAL LAKE. Ill from its south to its northern limits, ami making one of the most magnificent mountain ranges in the world, by its length, height and immensity. The melting snow on the mountains, and the countless springs on their slopes and in the parks form the North Platte riyer, which we crossed 290 miles west of Omaha. For game it has no equal in the world. Bison, wild cattle, deer, elk, antelope, bear, mountain sheep, grouse and quail abound, together with grizzlies and mountain lions, but no trout in the streams; in their stead are all the different representatives of the "sucker" family. The recent mining discoveries within and around the park have been the means of opening roads through it and settling a portion of its prairies on the banks of its streams with stock-men. Rich prairies open out before the eye on approaching the park; gentle rolling hills and long level bottoms, covered with luxuriant and nutritious grass common to the mountain parks, with clear, limpid streams, combining all the natural beauty that hill and valley, forest and plain, snow and verdure, water and waste can produce The brilliant, cool, bracing and refreshing atmosphere of the azure firmament assisting the respiration, so that breathing is exhilarating to the most sensitive lungs, as well as assisting the eye to distinguish objects at a great distance. Scenes more replete with beauty cannot be imagined. The meadows of the park to a casual observer have the appearance of being boggy, but on close examination the hummocks so often found on marshy ground are tufts of grass that have grown for man}- years, and remain standing by reason of not having been grazed, burned or mowed off. All the meadows that have been mowed, grazed or burned off become smooth. There are two routes to reach the park, . one from Grand Lake on Side; Tour No. 1, the other from Laramie. Hacks are run in summer, but in winter only saddle animals or snow shoes can be used. For distance from Laramie, see connections. Crystal, Lake — In the mountains to the west, bordering the North Park, is a lovely sheet of water. Should the traveler desire to visit it, the road beyond the plain will be found rough and the ascent toilsome. Before beginning the ascent of the mountains we enter one of the grandest forests in the country. For ten miles we toil on through the forest, which is so dense that the sunlight hardly penetrates, and the silence is almost oppressive. Bears mountain lions and the mountain sheep range here; their haunts until lately never having been invaded by the ' ' Pale-face. ' ' Emerg- ing from this gloom into the fair sunlight, we find ourselves on the highest point of the mountain, from which we can look over piles of fleecy clouds floating below us to other ranges far beyond. Peak on peak, ridge on ridge the} ascend, until their snow-clad heights are lost in the distance or in the vast blue dome above. Looking downward, we behold a vast succession of dark ridges and gray peaks through the rifts in the fog-like vapor floating above them. These dark ridges derive their sombre hue from the forests of pines which extend for miles and miles in all directions. To the east we see a deep indentation in the mountains which is Laramie plains. Across this apparently narrow line, the rugged masses of the Black hills rise in their grandeur, their black crests closing the scene. 112 COOPER LAKE — ROCK CREEK. Turn now to the immediate lanscape. Here is a green grassy lawn, dotted with tiny flowers, of varieties such as we never before beheld or even read of, and right before us in the center of this lawn lies a circular lake nearly a mile wide, its clear, soft cold water glistening in the rays of the sun, and reflecting, as in a mir- ror, every object on its banks — transforming them into many fan- tastic shapes, as the breeze lovingly kisses the silver surface, lifting it into little ripples. The scene is one of unsurpassed loveliness immediately around you, while the view in the distance is grand, aye, sublime — bevond the power of words to depict. Whoever visits this place cannot fail of being impressed with its wondrous beauty, and his mind will take newer and clearer impressions of the power of "Him who hath created all things." In places in the western mountains quartz and placer mines have been discovered, and some are being worked to advantage but the "prospector" has done very little work in this region; when he does, good results may be expected. Connections — From Laramie west, mail hack in summer, saddle and snowshoes in winter to Hatton, 22 miles; thence southwest to Centennial, 12 miles, once a week. Also to the southwest — same kind of conveyance — three times a week to Woods, 25 miles; Pinkhampton (in Colorado), 30 miles, thence southeast to Canadian, 12 miles; Walden, 11 miles; thence southeast to Haworth, five miles; thence south to Rand, 20 miles; from Walden southwest to Hebron, 16 miles; thence south to Spicer, 12 miles, connecting at Spicer with lines for Kremmling, Steamboat Springs, Dillon, etc. Leaving Laramie, our train rolls northward down the river, perhaps stopping for a moment at the unimportant stations of Wyoming (14 miles), at the crossing of Little Laramie river; Hutton'S (seven miles), Cooper Lake (six miles), west of which is a lake of same name, two miles long and half mile wide. At Lookout (five miles) we enter the rolling prairie country, where for 25 miles along the road bauds of antelope, elk and deer are found at different seasons of the year, the elk and deer being mostly found in the winter, when the deep snow drives them from the mountains. We also begin to find occasional bunches of sage- brush, which indicates that we are entering the country where this more useful than ornamental shrub abounds. Harper (six miles); MiSER (six miles), where sage-brush is the rule; then (five miles) after crossing Rock creek we reach what is, for some trains, a regular meal station. Rook CreeR — [From Laramie, 49 miles; elevation, 6,704 feet] — Situ- ated on the creek of that name, in a section wholly devoted to the stock interests. A large hotel (sometimes a meal station), depot buildings, store and a few private residences comprise the place. Connections — Mail hack: North to Mountain Home, 40 miles; Beaver, 27 miles; DOUGLASS, 16 miles, twice a week. Our course is now eastward for a few miles, the train winding around the sharp spurs of the high prairie bluffs which seem to bar our way by interlocking with each other, on through a rough, rolling country, again turning westward over bridges and fills, through cuts and snow sheds, crossing creeks and ravines, passing Wilcox (seven miles) and Aurora (nine miles). Soon after leaving Aurora we come to Como lake, a little sheet of water lying to the right of the road. It is about one mile long and half a mile wide, and contains a peculiar fish, a " fish with legs." These fish- animals possess gills something like a cat-fish, are amphibious, FALLS AND CLIFFS IN YELLOWSTONE PARK. being often found crawling clumsily on land, miles from the lake. Quite a variety of peculiar fossil shells are found around the lake that are gathered in summer by persons who offer them for sale to tourists. Medicine Bow River— Is crossed a few miles after leaving Como. It rises in the Medicine Bow mountains to the southwest, and empties its waters into the North Platte river. I - Sh^ld you have the stomach-ache or cut your finger while on .tiu ^Pacific coast don't fail to abuse a Chinaman for it. It's the thing to do over there, in Utah charge it up to the Mormons, on polygamy account. 114 CARBON — ELK MOUNTAIN. This river was long a noted resort for Indians and several treaties have been made on its banks between the "noble red men" and their pale-faced "brothers." The valley of the river, above the railroad, for 20 miles or more, is broad, fine bottom land, until it reaches the base of the mountain. From thence to its source the course of the river is through immense forests of pine, which present unrivaled facilities for lumbering. Fish are found in great quantities in the streams, and the various kinds of game which abound in this country are found in the mountains where the river has its source. medicine Bow — [From Rock Creek, 23 miles].— Contains several stores and saloons. The railroad company have a round-house here besides the usual freight and station buildings. Stock-raising is the only industry in this region of the country. For nearly eight miles after leaving the "Bow," the road is over a level plain, beyond which a rough, hilly country is entered, as well as a number of snow sheds. CjlFDOll — [Pop., Soo; from the "Bow," ten miles; from Cheyenne, 141 miles; elevation, 6,821 feet].— Is the first place on the Union Pacific rail- road where coal was discovered and the company secured the mines and have ever since mined, used and shipped large quantities. All but a few of the citizens of Carbon are engaged in mining coal, and that few are stock-raisers The usual number of stores, etc. , found in a place of the size are represented here. Connections — Mail hack: South to Elk Mountain, 13 miles, three times a week; thence connecting for the southeast to Rockdale, 17 miles, twice a week. Also to the north from Carbon to Ross, 15 miles; thence west to Leo, 15 miles, once a week. Westward, the divide between the waters of Medicine Bow and the Platte is traversed. Simpson (six miles) is passed and Percy (five miles) reached. Kt.k MOUNTAIN is seven miles due south from Percy, at the base of which, in "ye olden times," was located Fort Halleck, and an important station on the old overland stage line. This moun- tain is a noted landmark and quite a curiosity in its way. It rises to an altitude of 11,511 feet, its top covered with snow the greater portion of the year, and at all times snow can be found in places near the summit. It has the appearance of being an isolated peak, though really it is the extreme northern outpost of the Medicine Bow mountains. It is, however, surrounded by high rolling prairie land and rises from it rough, rugged and alone. It is nearly round, and about six miles in diameter at its base. On the west side the summit is easily reached by a lumber road. The sides to nearly the top are covered with a dense forest of pine, fir and hemlock. To the east of the mountain, Medicine valley; to the south and west, Soda and Pass creek valleys. In places along these vallevs a large amount of hay is gathered by the stock- men for their winter use. In all the little creeks in these valleys and vicinity the moun- tain trout has its home. You can find him in, and he will enter- tain you. Haired and feathered game of all kinds can also be found. Some of the former are very large and are named moun- tain lions, grizzlies, bears, cats, etc., who find their homes in the fastness of the forest, in the dark ravines and gloomy gorges of the mountains. If you have the nerve go for them ! but you must look a Icetle out all the time. FORT FRED STEELE — AND VICINITY. 115 From Percy to the Platte river, 29 miles, the road is built down the valley of an alkali ravine. Sage-brush and pools of alkali water alone greet the eye. Dana (six miles) is passed, then Edson (eight miles) and Wolcott (eight miles), all great names, but in this case combined their checks would fail to sell for the wing- feather of a nickel. Before reaching Wolcott's the valley narrows to a ravine, then to a narrow gorge; then rugged spurs shoot out from towering bluffs on either side as though to bar our progress; yet down we go whirling around these finger points where one projection from either wall marks an indenture on the other. While looking on this scene one cannot help fancying that one time this chasm was not — that some fearful convulsion of nature rent the mighty rocks in twain, leaving these ragged walls and fetid pools to attest the fact. Be that as it may, we now know that our train is thundering down this dismal gorge, at lightning speed, dodging and shying all apparent obstructions, when suddenly our iron horse gives forth one long terrific shout, and whirls out to daylight and to the level lands of North Platte river, crosses the river, and stops a moment, to take a drink, at Fori Fred StCt'le — [Elevation, 6,505feet; from Wolcott, six miles].— This post was established June 30th, 1868, and abandoned in 1886, only an agent being left to protect the government property. Connection — Mail hack: South to Saratoga, 28 miles, six times a week. From Saratoga southward to Swan, 20 miles; Collins, ten miles, twice a week, North Platte River — We first interviewed this stream 290 miles from Omaha. Under Laramie it was again seen, but now, as we are leaving it forever, will say: From its source in the North Park to this place it is over 150 miles, nearly due north. Above vSteele 2"> miles is the old Platte ferry (now a bridge), on the old stage road. From 80 to 50 miles up the river Douglass, French, Monument and Big creeks empty their waters into the Platte. On both Douglass and French creeks gold placers have been discov- ered and are being worked; also several quartz mines. Eight miles from Douglass creek some fine coal mines have- been discovered; near by quartz veins crop out on the hillside, and hot sulphur springs, seven in number, are "running wild" only a few feet from where rises a clear, sparkling spring of ice- cold water; and we opine that .the time is not far distant when these springs will be taken up, a narrow gauge railroad laid down, hotels built, and one of the finest "watering places" in the world opened to the public. % ..'-"The last paragraph above was written in July, 1869, and appeared in the first volume of our Trans-Continental Guide. Was it prophecy? Call it what you will, but the coal lands have all been taken up, also the springs; a fine hotel has been erected; the bed for the railroad graded (by Union Pacific Co. ) and before •many more moon.-, have come and gone, the locomotive will haul the traveler in palace cars to this Saratoga of the west. At Saratoga, on the Platte river near the junction of Spring creek, are hot springs said to possess valuable medicinal qualities; a hotel has been recently erected near which affords good accom- modations. The region abounds with game and the streams in the vicinity with trout. It takes a smart man to conceal from others what he does not know. 116 RAWLINS — LANDER — WASHAKIE. Leaving Fred Steele and climbing up onto the prairie, two miles brings us to Benton, which, in August, 1868, boasted of a population of fully 3,000, but before October following — the "end of the track" having meantime stretched away to the westward Kid miles — the people "packed up their tents and stole noiselessly away," leaving only a few lone graves, old chimneys, scattered cans and post holes to mark the site of the once "booming town." After reaching Benton, the bluffs which mark the entrance to the canon of the Platte below Fort Steele are plainly visible, and will continue in sight for 15 miles. At the entrance of the canon the river makes a turn to the west, and for several miles our train seems to be running down the river parallel with it though really drawing away to the westward. Hog Back — Four miles to the southward rises a high ridge from 500 to 1,000 feet above the prairie. It is about 15 miles in length, terminating in the highlands to the westward. It is called the "Hog Back." It is but about half a mile wide at the base, ris- ing so sharp that cattle cannot be driven across it, and in places it is all but impossible for a man to walk along its summit. Where this ridge reaches the river, about three miles above Fred Steele, the walls are perpendicular, and about 1,(100 feet in height. A corresponding range on the opposite side shows that the river has cut a channel through this ridge, which at one time barred the progress of the waters. From Fred Steele our train has been gradually climbing, and will continue to do so for over 40 miles from that place. RitWllllS — [Pop., 2,ioo; elevation, 6,744 feet; from Denver, 289 miles; Omaha, 709 miles; Ogden, 223 miles.]— Seat of Carbon county, named in honor of Gen. J. A. Rawlins. Stock-raising is the chief occupation of the people, though there are many citizens interested in mining and several hundred employed by the railroad company in their machine shops and works located here. The county buildings, water works, churches, schools, banks hotels and business blocks are equal to any in the territory. The Railroad and Brunswick are the principal hotels. Thejour- //<> Chinese in Evanston and the vicinity, mostly at the coal mines at Alma, sit- uated just around the point of the mountain to the north, four and a half miles away, These mines are very extensive, easily worked, yielding coal of good quality, and employ about 1,000 men. From 100 to 150 car loads are shipped from Alma per day to towns on the line of the Southern Pacific railroad in Nevada and California, beside a large amount consumed by both the Union and Southern companies. From the main track about one mile north of Evanston, a branch track is laid to the mines. Connections — Mail stage: North daily, Alma, four miles; Red Canon, two miles; Woodruff, 12 miles; Randolph, 12 miles; Laketown, 15 miles; Meadowville, four miles; Garden City, eight miles; Fish Haven, eight miles; St. Charles, five miles; Bloomington, seven miles; Paris, two miles; Ovid, four miles; Liberty, four miles, and Montpelier, ten miles. Leaving Evanston, we leave Bear river to the right and direct our course due west, passing Wasatch [ n miles], and a sign-board a short distance beyond reading, "Wyoming," — "Utah," indicating the dividing line between these territories. Being now on the Wasatch mountains in the sacred land of Zion, a towering elevation directly in front bars our vision and apparently our way. Our engineer — with an eye to the future — noted the position in a moment; and suddenly grasping the situa- tion peculiar to the land, sent forth a ringing shout of mingled agony and defiance. Like many other efforts of the kind, a com- promise resulted. The tunnel is 770 feet in length, cut through hard red clay and sandstone, and when daylight once again appears, we are at the head and looking down the far-famed Echo Canon — Here, too, we could an ancient tale unfold; but why? The divine command, "L,et the dead bury the dead," was oar first rule laid down in formulating the plan of this book. New life! new blood! new everything! — except "new wine in old bot- tles." Yet withal there are some "chestnuts" that it is quite fashionable to clink— taking the last illustration for a text. The law cannot make a person moral, but if immoral, very uncomfortable. WONDERFUL ECHO CANON. ll'7 At the head of Echo the rim or outer edge of the table lands seems to give way at once and pitch headlong away, beyond our view. The little streams which make out from these table lands, each seems to cut its way through the rim and drop out of sight. Down glides our train; the grade is steep — no steam required now. CasTEE Rock [eight miles] is passed and a long line of sandstone blnffs appears upon the right-hand side. These bluffs bear the general name of "Castle Rocks," and in places are worn and torn away until in the distance they may have the appearance of the old feudal castles so often spoken of, but so seldom seen by modern tourists. For a long distance these rocks line the canon on the north side, their massive jaggy fronts towering from 500 to 1,000 feet above our way. Our engine does not creep along as though mistrustful of its powers, but with a snort and roar phmges down the defile, which momentarily increases to a gorge, only to become in a short dis- tance a grand and awful chasm. While sight-seeing Emory [seven miles] is passed, and while the south side presents little attractions — only sloping grass-cov- ered hillsides — the cliffs to the north seem to rise still higher. Solid walls, broken walls, walls of sandstone, walls of granite and walls of conglomerate formation, are all represented. One must be on the alert to see a moiety of the most beautiful views, and as our train never seems to run as fast as when 'we desire a slower pace, these glancing views will needs be stored away and treasured in the mind for future reference. Steamboat rock — named for a noble prow which nearly overhangs our train, is a prominent feat- ure, five miles below Emory. Rain, wind and time have combined to destroy the massive walls of Echo, but in vain. Centuries have come and gone since that mighty convulsion shook the earth to its center, when Echo and Weber canons sprung into existence — twin children, whose birth was heralded by throes such as the earth may never feel again, and still the mighty walls of Echo remain, bidding defiance alike to time and his co-laborers — the elements; still hangs the delicate fret and frost work from the walls; still small cedars, shrubs and delicate vines and flowers adorn the countless nooks and crevices; still the pillar, column, dome and spire stand boldly forth in all their grand, wild and weird beauty to entrance the traveler and fill his mind with won- der and awe. On goes the engine, whirling us past castle, cathedral, towering column and rugged battlement, passing lateral canons which cut the walls from crest to base in awful chasms, shooting over oridges and flying past and under the overhanging walls, and finallv round the canon wall to the northward, within three short spans- length of thenoted Pulpit Rock (on the top of which it is said Brigham Young preached his first sermon in Utah) and stop at EcllO Crty — [Pop., 200; from Omaha, 994 miles; Ogden, 3S miles; Park 'city, 2S miles; elevation, 5,471 feet].— The town is situated on the eastern bank of Weber river, half a mile below the mouth of Echo, in a little valley half a mile in width. Beyond the Weber rise the seat- ing tree, shrub and g*-ass-covered slopes of the Wasatch mountains, nearly 2,000 feet from the river bed; to the east rise cliffs, sheer 1,000 feet. This is not a very progressive place. Excepting a few gardens, stock-raising is the only occupation of the people. Some there 128 MOUTH OE ECHO CANON. PULPIT ROCK — LOOKING EAST. See page I2J. are who go fishing but the fine trout are so abundant in all the streams, and the home consumption so small, from being sport it becomes labor to clean the fish so that industry flags. Connections— By rail: The Echo & Park City branch of Union Pacific. It's wonderful how brave some people are when they arel/rtr from danger. We lhave seen a number of cases where some of this class in the "sixties" on leaving the river to cross the plains, fairly yearned to meet an Indian— wanted- half a dozen for breakfast, a dozen for dinner, and a score or more for supper. Put when the Indian country was reached and danger was imminent, always hunted cover, and those of little talk did all the effective fighting. COAL AND SILVER. 129 TO THK RICHEST 1IIMN4. CAMP IX UTAH. Side Tour, No. 7 — From Kcho City to Coalyieee, Win- ship and Park City, via Echo and Park City branch of the Union Pacific railway. There are two passenger trains a da)- each way, at 7:50 a. in., and 7:35 p. in. The direction is south up the Weher river. The first station is Coalville — [Pop., 1,500; from Echo, five miles; elevation, 5,5*3 feet]. It is the seat of Summit county, settled by the Mormons in 1 859, and incorporated in 1887. It has a number of churches and schools, stores of different kinds, grist-mill, theatre and many neat private residences. The Coalville house is the principal hotel. The chief industries are coal mining and stock-raising, yet every foot of the limited supply of agricultural land along the Weber river is utilized, producing bounteously of every seed put in the ground. Just to the east of the town are located extensive deposits of coal, large quantities of which are mined and shipped daily. Coalville is on the old Mormon trail from the Missouri river. We have noted the route up to Green River City. From that place it crosses onto and follows up Black's Fork to Fort Bridger, thence close to the north of Aspen mountain, crossing Bear river, ten miles east of Fvanston, to Echo canon, down the canon to the Weber river, thence via Coalville, Winship and Parley's park to Salt Lake City. WillSllip — [Pop., 500; from Coalville, seven miles; elevation, 5,856 feet]. Is a Mormon village of agriculturists and stock-raisers, situated at the junction of Silver creek and Weber river. Wheat, oats, hay and all kinds of vegetables are grown for market; also fruit of many varieties. Connections — Mail hack: Southeast six times a week to Rockport, four miles; Pecoa, four miles; Oakley, three miles; and Kamas, five miles. The valley of Weber river, which is from a half to a mile in in width, is settled, fenced and cultivated, the soil being very quick and productive. Turning to the right up Silver creek the grade averages 76 feet to the mile for 15 miles, to the end of the road. Settlers are scattered all along the road wherever there is a patch of land to cultivate and water for irrigating it — as water controls the agricul- tural situation in this country — with water, big crop ! no water, no crop ! Ptirk City — [Pop., 3,500; from Winship, 15 miles; .Salt Lake City via Ogden, 103 miles; elevation, 7,006 feet]. — Is the principal mining, as well as the only Gentile city in Utah. Situated well up against the mountains at the head of Silver creek, just at the junction of Em- pire, Ontario and Whiteside gulches, and is exclusively a mining city, where mines are worked and not "salted" for sale. There are two stamp-mills — the Ontario 40, and the Daley of 30 stamps, chloridizing; the Crescent mill is working by the "Russell pro- cess;" one sampling, and one couceutrating-mill and smelter. 9 130 PARLEY'S PARK — WEBER CANON. The ore runs silver and lead, with a small per cent, of gold. This mining district since its discovery has produced $30,000,- 000, and the different mining companies have paid in dividends $14,000,000. Figures Talk ! — The plant of the Ontario mine cost $2,570,- 000. The company employs over 400 hands. Total out-put up to 1888, $23,160,000. Paid in dividends, $8,825,000. The Daly Mining Co., from 1885 to 1888, extracted $2,100,000, and paid in divi- dends, $375,000. Many of the business blocks and buildings are of stone and brick — substantial structures; churches and schools are numerous and well attended, as, be it remembered, the average miner may be uneducated and rough, but he is honest and frank, and always pays liberally for the education of his children, and the support of his church. Stores of various kinds are here, and a bank, as well as hotels and newspapers. The Park City is the principal hotel, and the Park City Record the paper to subscribe for and read, if you want all the news from this the most progressive mining camp in the western country. Parley Park — in the extreme southern end of which Park City and the mines are situated, is one of the most beautiful in Utah, and first settled by the Mormons. It is very fertile, produc- ing fine crops of all kinds of grain and vegetables. The streams are alive with fine mountain trout, and game of many varieties inhabit the adjoining mountains. These and the comfortable hotel accommodations in the park at convenient points make it one of those pleasant places where one loves to linger, regrets to leave, and longs to visit again. Connections — Mail stage: Southeast six times a week to Heber, 13 miles; thence west three times a week to Midway, four miles; thence south to Charleston, four miles; and Wellsburgh, seven miles. Also a daily stage for Salt Lake City, via Parley Canon. Returning to Echo City, we continue our route westward. Weber River — Rises in the Wasatch mountains about 70 miles south of Echo, and empties into Salt lake just below Ogden. The valley above Echo is very fertile and thickly settled, as hereto- fore noted. The settlers are all Mormons, and all, except at Coal- ville, engaged in agricultural, horticultural and stock-raising pur- suits; those at Coalville are principally miners, although all the available lands in the neighborhood are under cultivation. Every acre of the lower Weber of any value is owned and occupied by those who are utilizing it to the best of their ability. WEBER Canon is one of the remarkable features of the road. For 35 miles, excepting now and then a little valley a few miles in width, the river rushes foaming along, between two massive moun- tain walls. Now the torrent plunges over some mighty rock which has fallen from the towering cliff 1,000 feet above; anon, it whirls around in frantic struggles to escape from the boiling eddy, thence springing forward over a short, smooth rapid, only to repeat the plunge again and again, until it breaks forth into the plains, whence it glides away toward the lake, as though exhausted with its wild journey through the canon. Echo or telephone hotels are large rooms divided into small ones by paper or muslin partitions, in which "peek-holes" are numerous, and every loud word or noise is echoed or telephoned throughout the building. Leaving Echo but a short distance, these peculiar, red, yellow and gray, conglomerates— called "Witches' Rocks"— stand forth in some prominence, on the side of the cliff, to the right. One Thousand-Mile Tree— Entering the first narrows of the canon the 1,000-mile tree is passed— a thrifty, branching pine- bearing on its trunk a sign-board that tells the western-bound 132 WEBER CANON VIEWS. traveler that he has passed over 1,000 miles of railway from Omaha. This living milestone of nature's planting has long marked this place; long before the hardy Mormon passed down this wild gorge; long before the great trans-continental railroad was ever thought of, it stood a lonely sentinel, when all around was desolation — when the lurking savage and wild beast claimed supremacy, and each in turn reposed in the shade of its waving arms. How changed the scene! The ceaseless bustle of an active, progressive age, the hum of labor, the roar and rush of the passing locomotive, has usurped the old quiet, and henceforward the Lone Tree will be, not a guide to the gloomy past, but an index of the coming great- ness of a regenerated country. Just below this tree the cars cross a trestle bridge to the left bank of the Weber, thence down but a short distance, before they cross over another trestle to the right-hand side, and then, almost opposite the bridge, on the side of the mountain to the left, can be seen the Devii/S Slide, or serrated rocks. This slide is composed of two ridges of granite rock, reaching from the river nearly to the summit of a sloping, grass-clad mountain. They are from 50 to 200 feet high, narrow slabs, standing on edge, as though forced out of the mountain side. The two ridges run parallel with each other — about ten feet apart, the space between being covered with grass, wild flowers and climbing vines. {See next page. ) Grand Views — Rushing swiftly along past Croydon [nine miles] we soon lose sight of these rocks and behold others more grand, of different shapes and massive proportions. The mountains seem to have been dove-tailed together and then torn rudely asunder, leaving the rough promontories and rugged chasms as so many ob- stacles to bar out progress; and so they would but for engineering skill and Mormon brawn. They in January, 1869, drove tunnels through their ribs from side to side and bridged the chasms high above the flood; and so we pass as safely through as though these obstructions had not been, and come to light again; and then the beautiful little "Round valley," so-named, we cross to confront another gorge, and then once again another valley — this the larg- est of them all, in which is Morgan City — but down on the bills as WebCT — [Pop., 1,200; from Echo, 16 miles; Ogden, 24 miles; elevation, 5,080 feet]. — With barely a dozen exceptions it is strictly a Mormon town with a Z. C. M. I. branch and several stores and shops. Here irrigation is depended upon to raise all kinds of crops, and every acre of agricultural land is utilized to the limit of the water supply. Crops of grain and vegetables of all kinds grow to per- fection and yield abundantly. Fruit of many varieties as well as berries are raised in large quantities. Hay, alfalfa and tame grasses also give large yields per acre, and some thousand tons or more are baled and shipped from this place, much of which goes east along the road for 300 miles. Grass grows all the way to the summit of nearly all the mount- ains in this vicinity and on them, affording the best of grazing the year around — as the winter snow is blown off by the wind from the grassy exposures into the gulches, leaving bare usually sufficient for all winter needs. The same may be said of all the mountain portions of the west- ern country at the same altitude. Proceeding— PETERSON [ten miles], a side-track, is in the midst of the canon, down which whirls our train between towering mount- ains into a dark, gloomy gorge, when suddenly the whistle shrieks —the echo resounding from crag to crag in thunder tones— as we approach and pass through the wild scenery of the 134 HIS GATE — OGDEN, UTAH. Devil's Gate — On rattles our train, through a slash in the mountains, anon on a bridge far above the seething whirl of waters, where massive frowning rocks rear their crests far up toward the black and threatening clouds which hover over this witches' cauldron. With bated breath we gaze on this wild scene, and vainly try to analyze our feelings, in which awe, wonder and ad- miration are blended. We have no time for thought as to how or when this mighty work was accomplished, no time nor inclination to compare the work of nature with the puny work beneath us, but onward with quickened speed, down the right hand bank of the stream; on between these massive piles, worn and seamed in their ceaseless struggles against the destroying hand of time; on to where yon opening of light marks the open country; on past towering mountain and toppling rocks, until we catch a view of the broad sun-lit plains; and from the last and blackest of the buttresses which guard the entrance into Weber, we emerge to light and beauty, to catch the first view of the Great Salt lake — to behold broad plains and well cultivated fields which stretch their lines of waving green and golden shades beyond. 9 hit all Station — [Pop., 600; from Devil's Gate, five miles; Ogden. six miles; elevation, 4,497 feet]. — We have passed through the mountains and are fairly in the Great Salt lake basin. In the last 58 miles, we have dropped down 2,314 feet. This is an agricultural community and all belongs to the Mor- mon Church. It is a historical fact that near this station, in LSI 12, was the scene of the notorious Morrisite massacre. From Uintah we follow the river through a country dotted here and there with fertile and well tilled farms. But as we are neariug the end of the journey over the Union Pacific railway, it becomes necessary for all to gather up their valuables against the time when the notice will be given to "Change Cars!" Ogdeil Station— [Elevation, 4,301 feet]. Passengers arriving who desire to visit Salt Lake City (distance, 36 miles) will usually find a train in waiting at the depot. It will leave as soon as mails, express and baggage can be trans- ferred — about 30 minutes. Jg^^The overland trains of the Union and Southern arrive on the east side of the depot, and those to. depart on the west side. 1 r'The trains of the Southern are usually made up and wait- ing when the trains of the Union arrive. It then usually requires about one hour to make all necessary transfers before starting — but it's well to see to procuring sleeping car and other tickets, if required, and the transfer of your hand baggage and getting located as soon as convenient. g^lT'The cars of the Utah & Northern branch of the Union Pacific system arrive and depart from east side of the depot. JPSPT'assengers desirous of stopping over at Ogden can take a "buss" for the hotels, or a street car just at the eastern platform of the depot. The "Broom" is the principal hotel. jgggf^Passengers who have through tickets in sleeping cars will occupy the same numbers in the Southern as they had in tin- Union, and those who had their baggage checked through need give it no attention; but those who only checked to this place — to the end of the U. P. road — will need to see that it is re-checked. CHANGE CARS. 135 fi^-The station building — a long wooden structure between a row of main tracks — contains, besides a dining ball and luncb counter, a hotel and bar-room and the Division Superintendents' offices of both the Union and Southern ; also ticket, baggage, express and tele- graph offices, together with news stands and sundry other kinds <>( business. It's a miserable old rookery, and every few years for the last nineteen we have heard of plans being made that would soon result in completing, at this place, a grand Union depot. Now we are told the ground has been purchased and the foundations laid — two years ago — when work stopped and the momentous question still is : "When will the new depot be completed?" Oiiricii City — [Pop.. 8,500]. — Is the seat of Weber county, situ- ated one mile east of the depot, on the Ogden river, at the western base of the Wasatch mountains. It is amply provided with all needful public buildings, and many fine brick and stone business blocks. Stores, shops and small manufactories are here, as well as two large flour-mills and an opera house. Ogden has a Board of Trade association composed of the prin- cipal business men, who are putting forth commendable efforts to advertise the business, climate, and tourist attractions of their "junction city." There are a number of small hotels, but the Broom is the prin- cipal hotel in the city, as the Standard and the Argus, daily and weekly, are the principal newspapers. The waters of the Ogden river are conducted through the streets and used in the gardens and fields for irrigating purposes; in con- sequence, the city is in the midst of one great flower garden and a forest of fruit and shade trees. In the gardens are fruit trees of all kinds which bear abundantly, and in the fields are raised immense crops of grain, hay and vegetables. Ogden cation is one of the attractions in this vicinity. The scenery is grand and interesting. In places the granite walls rise on each side 1,500 feet, and for a considerable distance not more than 150 feet apart. About six miles from Ogden, up in the moun- tains behind the town, is a lovely little valley called "the Basin," watered by mountain streams and covered with a luxuriant growth of grass. Six miles northwest of Ogden, near the railroad, is one of the most valuable hot sulphur springs that we know of in the western country. A variety of bath accommodations and a good hotel are at the spring. B^^The continuation of our western tour from Ogden will be found on page 160. ggp^CROFUTT's Tours — No. 2, continues westward, via the Central Pacific railroad — to Sacramento, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Riverside, San Bernardino, San Diego, and Ensenada — Dower California— with Side Tours to Yosemite valley, Big Trees, The Geysers, San Jose, Santa Barbara, Seal Rocks, Monterey, Santa Cruz, Coloma — where the first gold discovery was made — to Shasta, over the Siskiyous, to Portland and all over the state of California. You should see the fisheries of the Columbia river. They are immense. 136 UTAH TERRITORY— RESOURCES. THE I.ATE PRESIDENT BRIGHAM YOUNG. ITtalt Territory — Called by the Mormons, the "Land of Zion." We have already traveled over 100 miles in this territory, where strange stories are the gossip and stranger still the state of facts, and it may be well to now take a hasty glance at its extent and resources. Utah extends from the 87th to the 42d parallel of north latitude and from the 109th to the 1 14th degree of west longitude, contain- ing a superficial area of about 65,000 square miles, with an esti- mated population, according to Gov. West, of 210,000 (including Indians and Chinese), with an assessed valuation of $46,379,075. This area includes large tracts of wild mountainous and barren couutrv. At present most of the land under cultivation and the meadow lands are along the base of the mountains, around the lakes and in the mountain valleys and are very productive when irrigated — grains, fruit and vegetables maturing readily and yield- ing large returns — the aridity of the climate precluding the grow- ing of crops In- any other means. Farm Products — Gov. West in his report to the Interior department for 1888, estimates "our productions for the season, UTAH — RESOURCES. 137 from farm, garden and orchard" as follows, in bushels: Wheat, 3,000,000; oats, 1,500,000; barley, 750,000; rye, 50,000; corn, 750,- 000; plums, 50,000; peaches (a short crop), 150,000; pears, 75-.000; apples (surplus), 200,000; Lucerne hay, 500,000 tons; Lucerne seed, 500,000 pounds; potatoes, 00,000,000 pounds. Minerals — The total value of gold, silver, copper and lead mined in Utah from 1871 to 1888 was $133,442,310, coin standard. The principal mines are in Summit, Beaver, Salt Lake, Tooele and Washington counties. Total average output of ore, 150,000 tons a year, the greater portion of which is treated at the mills, smelters and other works in the territory and the balance shivjped to dis- tant markets. Coal — The coal-measures in the territory are of enormous extent, are all bituminous and of good quality. There is coal in every county, but the bulk now mined is in the Weber and Pleasant valley districts, which are producing about 220,000 tons annually. Iron — This valuable mineral exists in almost unlimited quan- tities in Washington, Iron, Summit and Weber counties. Salt — "Saved by a pinch of salt" is an ancient chestnut. The "pinch" could be very large in Utah, as salt is abundant in San Pete and Sevier valleys, can be shoveled up in its crude state on the shores of Salt lake and in the southern part of the terri- tory is found by the mountains in a remarkably transparent and pure state. Besides the above, copper, zinc, cinnabar, antimony, brimstone, saltpeter, gypsum, plumbago, roofing slate, granite of various tex- ture and color; marble, variegated and plain; soda, fire-clay, red and white sandstone, limestone and kindred formations exist to an almost unlimited extent. Live Stock — Cattle, horses and sheep— particularly the latter — are raised in large numbers in all parts of the territory. Timber — Is not very plentiful at accessible points, being mostly in the mountain cations and ravines, far away from the present lines of travel. FruiT — Of many varieties and in great quantities is raised successfully in different parts of the territory. In the southern counties are grown all the semi-tropical and many 1 ot the tropical fruits, while berries are abundant everywhere. Climate — The summers are warm and dry with only an occa- sional shower; the winters are mild and open. The fall of snow- is light in the valley and heavy in the mountains, the melting of which affords ample water for irrigating the foot-hills and valleys. The air is very generally pure and clear, fogs and tornadoes are unknown, and the "blizzards" are a Dakota and Texas luxury never experienced here. SETTLEMENT — Utah was first settled by whites in 1H47. On the 24th of July, the advance guard of the Mormon emigration, numbering 143 men, entered Salt Lake valley; five days later 150 more men arrived under Capt. Brown, and on July Ml st Great Salt Lake City was laid out. At that time the country belonged to the Republic of Mexico, but by the treat}- of Gaudaloupe Hidalgo, in 1848, it was ceded to the United States. Crater Lake country should be set aside by Congress as a national park. See description in Tours No. 2. L38 GREAT SALT LAKE. Labor — .Supply and wages. Here we again quote Gov. West: "The past year has been an active and busy one throughout the territory. Extensive building has been going on in Salt Lake and Ogden cities, while in the other cities and towns healthy growth and improvements are marked. Labor has been in demand and fully employed, commanding wages as follows: Carpenters, per day, $3.50; in strong demand; could employ more. Joiners, per day. $3. 50 to $4.50; in strong demand; could employ more. Wood working machinists, per day. $3.50; scarce. Wood turners, per day, $3.50; scarce. -Steam fitters and plumbers, per day, $4.00 to $4.50; scarce. Masons and bricklayers, per day, $4.00 to 54-5<>; stiff, fully employed in good weather. Engineers (stationary), per day, 53.00. Stonecutters, per day, £4.00 to $4.50; in good demand. Blacksmiths and shoers, in town, per day, S3. 00 to $3.50. Blacksmiths and shoers, in camp, $4.00; in good supply, no surplus. Plasterers, per day, $3.00 to $3,50; fully employed. Slaughterers, per month, $60 to 5o": all employed, n<> surplus. Tailors, per week. $15 to $20; scarce. Bakers, per month, $45 to $50. Miners, per day, $3.50 to $4 00; well employed. Laborers, per day, 51.75 to 5j.oo; billy employed. Masons' tenders, per day, $2.00; fully employed. Farm hands, per month, 530, with board: in good demand. Cattle and sheep herders, per month, $30 to $40, with board; in good demand. Cigar makers, per week, 520 to 535. Painters, per day, S3-' 1 " to|4.oo; frequently scarce." We would suggest, however, to those coming to Utah seeking employment to bring along a little money, so in case 110 satisfac- tory employment is readily found in the valley towns they can be able to pay their way into the mining regions. And above all, be honest, sober, industrious and mind your ori'ii business and you cannot fail of success. "All aboard for Salt Lake City!" is now the command. The train stands beside the one we arrived upon, and is branded "Utah CENTRAL Railway." It is the pioneer local road of Utah; May 17th, LSI 19, just one week after the driving of the last spike uniting the tracks of the Union and Central Pacific railroads at Promontory, ground was broken at Ogden by President Brigham Young, assisted by the hy-iu tilliaims of the Mormon Church. The road was pushed rapidly to completion, and for many years afterwards was accounted to be the best paying railroad ever built. Leaving the depot the engineer runs ahead a piece, then backs up to half face and stands looking at the Weber river bridge. The conductor surveys the vantage of the field and becoming sat- isfied the coast is clear, shouts to the engineer, "let-er-go, Bishop!" and away we do go over the bridge through a deep cut in the river bluff, and whirl around to the left upon the side of a sloping ex- panse of prairie rising gradually to the eastward from the waters of CiJroal Salt Lake — The mysterious dead sea of America. It is now on our right ten miles away; but in the next .*>0 miles our road will gradually approach to within half a mile of its briny waters. There it is spread out, glittering in the sunlight like a field of burnished silver. Mile after mile it stretches away placid and motionless, as though no life had ever caused a vibration of its currents or given one restless impulse to its briny bosom. There are a number of islands in the lake; the largest is Antelope (15 miles long and two miles wide), directly in Iront. The smaller are Carrington, Egg, Sheep's, Hot and Stansburv. On Antelope island are a number of springs of fresh w r ater, and many trees and an abundance of shrubs and grass. On some of the islands shrubs and grasses grow, but no springs of water have been found. DEAD SEA OF AMERICA. 130 Salt lake is 1:2<) miles in length by 45 miles in width, and is not known to have any outlet, yet the Jordan, Weber, Ogden and Rear rivers empty into it a large volume of water, besides a score or more of smaller streams. Some geologists claim that evaporation absorbs the vast volume, but it is a noticeable fact — one in the writer's memory — and one worthy of serious consideration, that since the settlements have been made in the territory and the bosom of the earth has been turned by the plow, rendering the barren wastes blooming and productive, the waters of the lake have risen steadily, and now are over four feet higher than they were :20 years ago. Fences which once enclosed fine meadow land on the south side of the lake in 1868, are just now' peering above the flood, marking its steady encroachment on the fertile bottom lands, and pointing to the evident fate of the farms adjoining. The grand old mountains, particularly west from Ogden, bear unmistakable evidence of the water's presence far up their rocky sides. At what period of time the floods reached that altitude, or whether those mountains were lifted from their present level of the lake by volcanic action and carried these water-lines with them are questions no one can answer. [The story related of old Jim Bridger, the trapper who lived in this western country since 1820 until his death ten years ago. may be related here. J For a number of years before his death "Jim" lived at Fort Bridger and was subjected to a great many "interviews" by the curious. When questioned in regard to the changes that had taken place in the country since he first visited it, he would say: "Do 5 - ou see that mountain there?" (one 500 feet high) "Well, sir, when I first came here the place where it stands was a hole in the ground." Now comes the query: Do the mountains grow or the waters recede? There have been many analyses made of the waters of the (ireat Salt lake, all of them agreeing that it is a solution consist- ing of chloride of sodium or common salt, or sulphates of silver, potash, alum and the chloride of magnesium. The following com- parison of solid contents and specific gravity may be of interest: Solid contents — per cent. Specific Gravity; Great Salt Lake water 13.8 1.107 Dead Sea water 21.0 1.116 Ocean water 3.5 1.026 One of the most recent reliable analyses of the waters of the Great Salt lake, by Prof. O. D. Allern, of New Haven, Conn., gave the following results: Solids— per cent. Chloride of sodium 79.11 Sulphate of potassa 3.5S Chloride of magnesia 9.95 sulphate of lime 0.57 Sulphate of soda 6.22 j Excess of chlorine 0.57 Total 100.00 Onward goes our train, while we have been making a study of the lake, noting the highly cultivated farms on each side and viewing the Wasatch mountains on the left, it has rattled along. Kaysville, Farmiiigtoii and Cciilreville. These are all Mormon agricultural towns embowered in fruit trees, as nearly every house in Utah is situated in the midst of an orchard or garden. These towns are provided with irrigating ditches, with water from the mountain reservoirs, running through all the streets and over all the grounds. Some of these streams are sufficiently large to run saw and flouring-mills, the water first doing duty at the mills and then in the fields. rr 140 VIEW IN SALT LAKE CITY. Bo u 11 ti fill — Is a pretty lit- tle village near the station of Wood's Cros- sing, and like all Mormon cities, towns and hamlets is hid away in a pro- fusion of foliage. The course of our road from Ogden to Salt Lake City is al- most due south, while the Wa- satch mountains for 80 miles des- cribe a huge circle in the middle to the eastward. The lower point of this circle we are fast approach- ing, and will reach it in about two miles, just at the point of the mountains ahead where the steam is rising, opposite a large building on the right — " Beck's Hot Spring" bath houses. Jnst under that huge rock boils up the spring; it's hot, it's very hot.' There is no failure of hot water here the j year around — the why? we query, particularly as Ensign peak, the "Mount of Prophecy, " where the late prophet Brigham Young was wont to wrestle with the Lord, rises directly from the spring to an altitude of 1,200 feet above the valley. Can he have had anything to do with it? In thinking over these things we have given the bath houses the go-by, as nearly everybody does, and have passed on the right Hot Spring lake, where the first view of Salt Lake City appears ahead. m 1 >on't fool yourself by thinking that you are going west to find fools. SALT LAKE CITY — UTAH. 141 " What Hotel!" you ask? Well, there are a score of them here, and all good in proportion to their charges. The principal hotels are : Walker, Cullen, Continental, Metropolitan, Cliff, White, Valley and Palace. The charges grade downwards from $3 to $1.50 per day. "Buss" lines — Two of them take passengers to and from the depot and hotels for 25 cents each, passenger and baggage. Street cars can be found just at the entrance of the depot, that run past nearly all the hotels. Fare, five cents. Halt L, 000. It provides accommodations for 90 patients. Provo river, which is formed by numerous small streams to the eastward, affords the best water-power of any stream in Utah. The woolen-mill is a noted feature of the city; the buildings number four, are built of stone, four stories high, and cost com- plete ready for business $210,000. The Mormons have a very capacious tabernacle, and the Meth- odists a fine church, and schools are ample. The Brigham Young academy is located here, which was amply endowed by President Brigham Young some years before his death. Provo is not a bustling, "booming" city, and the traveler will see very few of the citizetis around the depot — they have no time to idle away. Excepting those engaged in the mills above re- ferred to the citizens are all farmers, fruit growers, gardeners, or engaged in raising cattle and sheep. Many of the large herds of sheep in Utah and Wyoming are owned by citizens of this city. Connections— Besides the "Central," Provo is connected by rail north and eastward, by the Denver & Rio Grande Western, and stage to Provo Valley, 20 miles eastward. FISH, FROGS — MORMON TOWNS. 153 Fish and Frogs — Five miles north of Provo, in Provo canon, is located a chain of artificial ponds three of which are completed and stocked with 500,000 mountain trout, and one more pond building which will soon be completed, aggregating 15 acres, The enterprise was commenced in 1SS7, and is owned by T. T. Cornforth, of Denver, Col. The fish increased three-fold the first season and are thriving finely. A hatchery is building, and an artesian well is being bored to supplement the waters of the Provo river, and springs that now furnish water for the ponds. A pond specially designed for raising frogs is among the im- provements contemplated for 1889. A visit to these trout ponds would be one quite interesting, if not profitable, to make. Leaving Provo we continue our swing around the circle, through hay meadows and marshes alive with water-fowl, five miles to Sprillgvillc — [Pop., 2,700]. — This place was named after a warm spring which flows from Hobble canon, above the town. Tbe water from this spring is utilized to run a flouring-mill, whereby the mill is enabled to run all seasons of the year. A woolen factory is also located here and the usual surroundings of a Mormon town. Hobble creek canon on the east was so named by the Mormon emigrants who visited it in 1847, from finding a pair of old Spanish hobbles. From here the direction of our route is to the southwest. Connections — By rail: Besides the "Central,'' with the D. & R. G. Western, for north and east. Spanish Fork— [Pop., 2,100]. — Is another settlement five miles further to the south and east of our road, on Spanish Fork river embowered in foliage, fruit trees and vines. The people like those of Springville are mostly engaged in agricultural and pastoral pursuits. Butter and cheese are quite a specialty with many of the citizens; on the table-lands vineyards are numerous, and wine is made to some extent. All kinds of grain, potatoes, corn, vegeta- bles, etc., thrive. Connections — By rail: Besides the "Central," with the D. & R. G. Western and mail hack south to Salem, three and a half miles, six times a week. I I all Lake — which we have more than half encircled in our zig-zag tour, is a body of fresh water, 30 miles long and six miles wide; is fed by Provo river, American Fork, Spanish Fork, Hobble, Salt and Peteetweet creeks, having its outlet through Jordan river, which runs north and empties into Great Salt lake. Utah lake abounds in trout, mullet and chubs, and in the marshes along its shores, water fowl in great numbers. Paj'SOII — [Pop,, 2,200; from Spanish Fork, eight miles; Salt Lake City, 66 miles. — Is an incorporated town situated one and a half miles to the left of the road at the base of the mountains. Besides the usual stores, etc., it has an opera house seating 800. The Eureka is the principal hotel. The people appear to be well-to-do, and do not trouble them- selves much about the great problem, "Does the Hon. Mr. Peacock eat with his knife, fork or fingers?" They raise fruit, live-stock and all kinds of farm produce, and are quite independent. Some ore is hauled from the mountains to the southward, to this station, for shipment north. "Round-ups'' to be published soon, in which the old man rounds up every body and every thing in the west. 1~>4 OVERLOOKED BY MT. NEBO. Spring Lake Villa — Three miles from Payson, nestling close in beside the mountain, and a little lakelet of similar name, is noted for its fruit of various kinds, where is located an extensive canning establishment. Proceeding from Payson station, the valley gradually narrows and is nearly crowded out by the mountains and rim of the basin at Saiilaquiii — [Pop., 2,000]. — Situated to the left beside the moun- tain and is the last settlement in Salt lake basin. Before the con- struction of the railroad to Silver City and Tintic, this station was the nearest point to the railroad from those places. Connections — Mail hack: West three times a week to Goshun, seven miles. From Santaquin our course is more to the southward, passing through a rough and broken country over the rim of the basin and down into Juab valley. There are a great many deep springs in this valley. A short distance after passing York (four miles from Santaquin i, to the right is a hot spring in which were found the bodies of the Aiken party, who were murdered there in 1857. Twelve miles from Santaquin brings us to Mona — A small hamlet of about 400 settlers, situated at the immediate western base of Mt. Nebo (altitude, 11,992 feet), the side of which is marked from the summit down by a pathway of slide sand, gray in color. \cplli — [Pop., 2,500]. — Is the seat of Juab county, situated on San Pete river close to the southwestern base of Mt. Nebo. Besides the usual complement of stores, etc., it has a flour-mill, a woolen factory, an opera house, the Union hotel and the Ensign, a weekly newspaper. Connections — By rail: The San Pete Valley (narrow gauge) east and southward, connecting with all regular trains on the "Central" for Fountain Grken, 15 miles; Maroni, ten miles; and Chester four and a half miles; total, 29 1 / 2 miles. From Maroni, daily mail stages run eastward to Mt. Pleasant, eight miles; thence north to Fairview, seven miles. From Maroni, southeast to Spring City (daily), seven miles. From Maroni, southwest to Wales, five miles, three times a week. From Chester, south daily, mail stages to Ephraim, seven miles; Manti, seven miles; Sterling, six miles; thence southwest to Gunnison, eight miles; thence south to Salina, 15 miles; Sigurd, ii miles;IRiCHFiELD, ten miles; Elsi- nore, seven miles; Monroe, five miles; thence three times a week to Marys- ville, 15 miles; Panguitch, 52 miles. From Sterling, south three times a week, to Mayfield, six miles. From Gunnison, north three times a week, to Fayette, six miles; thence west to Dover, three miles. The Juab valley commences near York, averages about three miles in width and is 36 miles in length; cultivated where water can be had for irrigation. But the settlers in this section of coun- try rely principally on stock-raising. Some are miners, working around in the adjoining mountains. JllSlb — [From Nephi, 14 miles; Salt Lake City, 105 miles]. — Situated in the lower portion of Juab valley at the end of the first division of the road, and a meal station ; a store and a score of buildings in sight comprises the place. There are few settlers in this vicinity. Bishop Elmer Taylor keeps the hotel and meal station. Lkvan — Is a small hamlet situated close in beside the moun- tains, about midway between Nephi and Juab; reached by daily mail hack from Juab. Connections — Mail hack: Southwest six times a week to Scipio, 23 miles; HOLDEN, 1 4 miles; Fillmore, ten miles: Meadow, eight miles ; and KanoSH, six miles. MILFORD — FRISCO. 155 A Word to thk Tourist — There is little of interest in this immediate section of country and beyond, and as the train from this place runs to the end of the road at Frisco all the way in the night, it is a fine opportunity for one to exercise any romantic ideas and imagery, and never fear that the reality will be any worse than the country traversed. We might stop and return from here, but as there are others beside the tourist who may be inter- ested and willing to follow our trail in the night, over which we have ridden in the day time, we proceed rapidly. Leaving Juab the route is to the southwest, then west, curving to the northwest, and then again curves to the southwest and keeps that general direction to the end of the road. Following down Chicken creek and around some rugged buttes, five miles, brings our train onto the banks of the Sevier river, where the bluffs come close together forming a canon gorge, just room enough for our road and the stream between. The Sevier River is a crooked, alkaline, muddy and slug- gish stream, down which the road is built through a worthless country, poorly adapted for a sheep range, although at LEming- Ton, 25 miles from Juab, and Riverside, 18 miles further, a few settlers are to be seen cultivating the land. The land is product- ive, with good water for irrigation, but the difficulty is to get a supply of good water. Oasis — Formerly Desert, is 52 miles from Juab, situated a few miles east of the Sevier river, which is here dammed for irrigating purposes. Leaving Oasis we pass over a broad level stretch of desert country, traversed by a great number of irrigating ditches from the dam aforesaid, but the waters are so strong with alkali and the soil so impregnated with it, that the aforesaid wildnerness fails to blossom, except with sage and grease-wood shrubs. The road crosses the edge of Sevier lake (on a raised track), the saline deposits of which are very strong. The scenery along this road, below the Sevier canon, is not very striking, unless one is very anxious to be struck. Milfortl — [Pop., 300; from Oasis, 69 miles; Salt Lake City, 226 miles; Frisco, 17 miles]. — Is situated on Beaver river surrounded by settlers and some well cultivated and productive farms. Here are located one quartz-mill and one smelting furnace. CONNECTiONS-Mail stage: .Southeast daily to Minersville, 15 miles; thence eastward to Beaver, 12 miles; thence southward to Panguitch, 50 miles; Hillsdale, ii miles; Asays, 14 miles; Ranch, 20 miles; GLENDALE.ten miles; Order ville, four miles; McCarmel, four miles; and Kanab, 20 miles. From Minersville south daily, Cedar City, 40 miles; Kanarraville, 14 miles; Silver Reef, 22 miles; Washington, 15 miles; and St. George, six miles. From Cedar City northeast daily, to Parowan, 21 miles; and Paragonah, four miles. From Silver Reef east daily, to Toguerville, five miles; Virgin City, eight miles, and Rockville, five miles. From Kanarraville southwest, three times a week to New Harmony, nine miles; from thence west, twice a week to Pinto, 16 miles; Hebron, 18 miles, and Pan ac a, Nev., 55 miles. From Milford southwest, three times a week to Pioche, Nev., no miles. Leaving Milford our direction is to the northwest over a heavy grade and a broad sage-brush plain, to the end of the road at FriSCO — [Pop., 250; from Milford, 17 imiles ; Salt Lake City, 243 miles]. Here is located the once famous Horn Silver Mine for which an English syndicate paid $10,000,000. For many years the property 156 THKY ALL GO THERE. paid handsome dividends, when for reasons unknown work was suspended. In the "booming" days of Frisco the place contained over 2,500 population and loaded whole trains with ore daily for shipment to the smelting works at Milford and Francklyn. For many years the Horn Silver was counted the richest mine in the western country and some mining men claim now, that by proper management, it can be made to yield an immense revenue. The ores of the Horn Silver are galena, and said to run from $15 to |1,500 per ton of silver and from 20 to 40 per cent, of lead. There are a number of other mines near Frisco that are said to be very rich and that will be heard from at an early day. Connections — Mail hack: Northwest, twice a week to Bttr'bank, 47 miles, and Taylor, Nev., 63 miles. Bidding farewell to southern Utah, we return to Salt Lake City. Side Tour No. 9 — From Salt Lake City to Garfield Beach, Tooele and Stockton. For this tour we take the trains on the Utah & Nevada, a branch of the Union Pacific system. They leave from the depot, situated on the corner of 1st South and 4th west Temple streets. This is a narrow gauge road commenced in 1S74 and completed in 1877, to within two miles of Stockton, 37-> miles from Salt Lake City. The route is due west crossing the Jordan river in the first mile, and on over abroad stretch of bottom land 12 miles to Chambers, where are located several hot springs, at the northeastern point of the Oquirrh mountains. The soil on this broad bottom in most parts is a black vegetable mold with a mixture of fine sand, and with water for irrigation would produce crops in as great abundance as the same number of acres in any part of the world. Some few settlers have located on these lands, but on the greater portion stock, cattle and sheep, range at will; also great numbers of "narrow gauge mules," called jack-rabbits east of Utah. Proceeding along, around the side of the mountain, our train gradually approaches Great Salt lake, which has been in view for some miles, and five miles from Chambers we pass the old aban- doned bathing station of Black Rock, named for a black-looking rock setting out in the lake about 300 feet from the shore, and about 50 feet in height. It is opposite Lion Head Rock, a sharp promontory jutting out into the lake, the summit of wdiich is known as Observation Point, so named from the unobstructed view of the surrounding country which can be had from its sum- mit. One mile further is (■urficld Beach — on Great Salt lake, famous the world over as one of the most attractive bathing resorts in the world. For over 20 years — long before the railroad was thought of — Black Rock was a popular bathing resort for the citizens of Salt Lake City. It was also visited by many tourists. At that time a trip to the lake and back for a party of four was just $3 each, when the roads were good the trip occupying the whole day. Now, in the bathing season, three round trips can be made a day, all for half the money paid before the railroad was constructed. The bathing beach slopes away for 100 yards before gaining a depth of six feet, with a fine sandy bottom, with no holes or undertow. The water is pure aud very buoyant, sustaining one on its surface indefinitely without an effort, raising and lowering with the respiration. In the water of the lake no living thing exists, hence the timid need have no fear of reptiles— it's too salt for them. While the water of the ocean contains only three per cent, salt, the water of this lake contains over 13 per cent. Persons taking their first bath should be a little cautious about a sudden introduction to the waters. Is it not strange that of all the babies born in Utah, none have ever been found on the door-steps of a Gentile? 158 GARFIELD AND VICINITY. The railroad company purchased all interests at Garfield Beach several years ago, and have made extensive improvements since. They consist of a handsome station building, 350x50 feet, of the latest improved design, a magnificent pavilion 165x65 feet, built over the water 400 feet from shore, surmounted by a tower in the center overlooking the lake on all sides. The pavilion is ap- proached b}* a broad covered pier over 300 feet in length, flanked on the sides by 400 elegant dressing rooms fitted up with all the modern improvements for comfort and convenience such as sta- tionary washstands, mirrors and showers for rinsing off the salt water of the lake. Bathing suits are to be had for ladies, gentle- men and children. A refreshment saloon, equipped with all the appointments of a first-class establishment where all the substantial and every deli- cacy of the season is served at moderate prices. We have heard that the railroad company proposed to build a Large hotel on the beach capable of rooming several hundred peo- ple, but the convenient access to and from the hotels at Salt Lake City would seem to make it unnecessary. The baths are extremely invigorating and experience has proved them of great hygienic effect, stimulating the appetite to such an extent that a hearty meal immediately after a bath is felt to be almost a necessity to sustain life. During the bathing season trains run back and forth between .Salt Lake City and the beach at frequent intervals. Observation Point — Is a short distance east from the Garfield, from the summit of which an extended view can be had. Antelope or Church Island to the northeast, is 14 miles distant; Goose Creek mountains 100 miles northwest; Wasatch mountains from 20 to 25 miles east; West mountain, back of which is the great American desert, 15 miles, and the Oquirrh close to the south, while the view to the southwest extends to the rim of the basin 17 miles away. Giant's Cave — Is situated away up in the side of the mountains to the south of Garfield beach, in an opening extending several hundred feet into the mountain side with a ceiling ranging in height from ten to 75 feet from which hang stalactites of great beauty and brilliancy. Remains of some of the ancient tribes of Indians, it is said, are still to be found scattered around the floor of the cave. The presence of these remains is explained by a tradi- tion among the Indians to the effect that "many hundred years ago two tribes of Indians were at war with each other and that the weaker party was forced to take refuge in the cave, but were followed by the enemy, who closed the entrance with huge bould- ers, forming an impenetrable barrier to their escape"— and thus their place of refuge became their grave. Oouirrh Mountains — Immediately south of Garfield, are about 1,0()(> feet above the road, and generally have rounded peaks, cov- ered with small trees in places, sage, shrubs and grass in others, and large timber in the inaccessible gulches and ravines near the summit. Game, such as deer and bear, range these mountains; ducks are abundant six miles east of Garfield; and lake fish? nary one! STEAM Yacht — Now, if the railroad company want to give their improvements at Garfield a grand coup de grace, they will STOCKTON" — AND BACK. 159 construct without delay a first-class passenger steam yacht, put it in charge of the veteran Capt. Darres to navigate the take, affording the traveler an opportunity to explore the mysteries of the famous "Dead ,Sea " of America and to hehold the marvelous grandeur with which this inland sea abounds, of which the great traveler, Von Humboldt, so truly said: "Here is the beauty and grandeur of Como and Killarney combined." Leaving Garfield our course is more to the southward along the side of the lake by a few well-cultivated farms, where water can be had from the mountains on the left in sufficient quantities for irrigating them. Two miles south on the left is "Doby Rock," a high isolated rock on elevated ground; so named after an old Indian who was buried near. Turning more to the left and draw- ing awav from the lake the road follows along a few miles from the base of the mountains beside which is located "E. T. City," a small Mormon village. If all-way House — Is a small station six miles from Garfield, near a flouring and woolen-mill. On the opposite side of the val- ley to the west is Grantsviele, nine miles distant (connected with the train by daily stage), with a population of nearly 2,000 in the midst of a large body of fine agricultural land. Back of Grants- ville rise the West mountains which rear their peaks fully 2,000 feet above the town. Just beyond these mountains is Skull valley, made notable from an Indian fight which once occurred there, after which for many years, the ground was covered with bones. Tooele — Station— [From Garfield, )2 miles].— Is two miles from the town of Tooele, which is situated to the left of the station close in beside the mountain. TooELE is the seat of Tooele county and contains a population of nearly 2,000. Along the base of the mountain the land is irri- gated from the little springs and creeks in the mountain gorges, the waters of which seldom find their way to the lake. It is con- sidered one of the best fruit and vegetable districts in Utah. The road has been gradually climbing since leaving Garfield, until we are now on a high bench curving with the mountains more to the westward and some miles below the lower end of the lake. As we near the lower portion of the great valley which lies on our right the land rises, rim-like, and a few hundred yards below the end of the track rises 500 feet, completely locking in the valley by a mountain range or semi-circle, extending in a grand arc from the Oquirrh mountains on the east, to meet the range on the west, forming one great bend fully two miles in curvature. Here at the base is the Terminus — of the railroad — and wdiere it has remained for the last ten years, and where it is likely to remain for another ten. The rim is about half a mile in width, then drops away into Rush valley to a level with the "terminus." **l Oek I Oil — [Pop., iso; from Terminus, two miles; Salt Lake City, 39 miles]. Is situated in the northeast corner of Rush valley about half mile east from Rush lake, a sheet of fresh water two miles long and a half mile wide. The town at one time contained three smelting furnaces and a population of about 600, but at this date there is little being done in this vicinity other than stock-raising and a little farming along Rush valley. 160 GOOD-BYE, UTAH ! To reach Stockton by rail it will be necessary to drive a tunnel through the rim separating Rush from Utah valley, 1,000 feet in length, exclusive of approaches. Connections — From Stockton: Mail hack southeast to Ophir, 13 miles, three times a week. From Stockton, south to Saint John, nine miles; Centre, eight miles, and Vernon, 12 miles, three times a week. This is very little on this tour beyond Garfield Beach to inter- est the tourist, and there is onlv one train a day between Salt Lake Cit}- and the Terminus. Returning to Salt Lake and thence to Ogden, our route from that city is northward to Montana. Passengers from Ogden west, via Central Pacific railroad, for Sacramento, San Francisco, Los Angeles and San Diego and all over Callforn'a, should be sure and buy CrofuTT's Overhand Tours No. ± It covers the route represented by the red line on the map in this book. Side Tour Xo. 10 — From Ogden City, northward to Brigham City, Logan and Pocatello, connecting at the latter with Side Tour No. 11, for Blackfoot, Yellow- stone National Park, Dillon, Butte City, Anaconda, Deer Lodge and Garrison. For this Tour, we take the train on the Utah & Northern, a branch of the Union Pacific railway system. This road is a nar- row gauge to Pocatello, 153 miles, from which place northward, it is now a standard gauge. The road was commenced in 1874, and extended from time to time to its present terminus. There is only one passenger train a day each way, so we have no choice of time, and, unlike our last five tours, the train is pro- vided with a Pullman car. "All Aboard!" — means farewell to Utah, and "good even- ing" to Idaho. Our train leaves at 4:40 p. 111., direction, north- ward; skirts the western edge of the city, across rich, broad and well cultivated fields, meadows, orchards and gardens, to Hot Springs — Nine miles from Ogden, where a hotel and extensive bathing accommodations are provided. The spring is at the point of the mountain just before reaching the station on the right. It is one of the many hot springs which abound in the Great Salt lake and Nevada basins. In cold weather it sends up a dense cloud of vapor, which is visible for miles away. It is strongly impregnated with sulphur, iron and other mineral substances. Five miles further, the Mormon town of YVillard [pop., Scx>l can be seen nestling in beside the mountains, and seven miles be- yond, similarly situated, Brigham [pop., 1,000], the seat of Box Flder county, and like Willard, every house is in the midst of fruit orchards and gardens. Volcanic — Strong evidences exist of the great volcanic up- heaval which once lit up this country with its lurid fires. Just east of Willard in the first range of hills, is the crater of an ex- tinct volcano which covers several acres. The masses of lava lying around and its bleak, barren and desolate appearance would seem to indicate that, comparatively speaking, not many years have elapsed since it was in active operation. NORTH — FROM OGDEN. Ifil WaTER-Marks — With the rugged mountains on our right and the waters of the lake seen at times on our left, we find objects of interest continually rising around us. Far up the sides of the mountain, stretching along in one unbroken line, save where it is sundered by canons, gulches and ravines is the old water-mark of the ancient lake, showing that at one time this lake was a mighty sea, washing the mountain sides several hundred feet above us. The old water-line is no creation of the imagination, but a broad bench, whereupon the well-worn rocks, the rounded pebbles and marine shells still attest the fact that once the waters of tbe lake washed this broad upland. Beneath the highest and largest bench at various places may be seen two others at about equal distances apart, showing that the waters have had three different altitudes before they reached their present level. From Ogdeu to a few miles beyond Brigham our road has run parallel with the Central Pacific, from half to one mile to the left. The Great Salt lake has been in view far in the distance. Bear river valley now appears, through which the same river that we interviewed at Kvanston and beyond, flows to its grave in the great dead sea beyond. This stream runs north from Kvanston nearly 150 miles, then curving to the west and south conies down to Salt lake. Our train runs up the valley, leaving and returning at times for a distance of HO miles. Pick and Choose — In a ten-mile run from Brigham one can pick and choose almost anything in the way of land, water and rocks to be found in Utah. All along that distance at intervals appear springs, some cold and some very hot basaltic knolls and stagnant pools well cultivated fields and alkali beds little lakes and sage-brush bumps rich soil and big crops, then barren wastes with nary shrub or vegetable life. Iloiiejville — [From-Ogden, 30 miles]. — Isasmall hamlet of far- mers, some of whom have very respectable stone houses. But we failed to see the honey, so went ahead and left it fov-hind. Dewey — Is passed in five miles, where a grist-mill does duty and some good farms appear. Then curving around the point of the mountain, head directly for the north up Bear valley, the grade increasing. Sage-brush is the rule; pines and cedars appear in the mountain gorges close on our right, as up we climb ! CollillKlOll — [five miles], formerly called Hampton's, once a meal station, now abandoned as such. Just before reaching this station the road cuts through a spur of the mountain that juts out to the westward into the valley, leav- ing a high isolated peak. Let us climb this peak and take a look. To the north [six miles], the Bear river canons, through a low spur of the Wasatch, which reaches away to the northwest. To the west of this spur lies the Malad valley and Malad river; the latter and the Bear come close together into the valley immediately to the west of where we stand, then flow close together down the valley to the south — parallel for ten miles before they unite — in some places not more than 20 feet apart. To the west of this val- ley rises the long range of the Malad mountains, which, commenc- ing near Corinne. run nearly north to opposite this point and then bears away to the northwest. Only a small portion of the lauds in the Bear or Malad valleys is cultivated; cattle and sheep range at will. 162 BEAR — AND CACHE VALLEYS. CoNNECTiONS-Mail hack: Northwest daily to Plymoth, ten miles; Portage, seven miles; Cherry Creek, ten miles, and Malad City, six miles; total, 33 miles. ___ Leaving Collinston, our road is up a 100- foot grade, curving around to raise the spur of the Wasatch above alluded to, through which Bear river cuts through a few miles to the northward. Finally the Summit — Is reached and passed four miles from Collinston, and we curve to the east and then to the south, around the narrow spur alluded to, which separates Bear valley from Cache valley. From the Summit we have been rapidly descending into Cache valley, which is on our left, and is one of the most productive in Utah. The valley heads in the Wasatch mountains, northeast of Ogden, and is 40 miles long with an average width of six miles, to where it intersects Marsh valley on the north, five miles dis- tant. The Logan river runs through the lower portion of this valley and is composed of the Little Bear, Blacksmith Fork and Logan creeks, making a stream of ample volume to irrigate all the land in the valley. Mention — [Pop.,700; from the Summit, six miles]. — Is situated on a slope of the Wasatch spur, on the west side of Cache valley. Connections — Mail hack: South to Wellsville, six miles, daily. Mormon VILLAGES — In Cache valley there are upwards of 20 Mormon villages, that number populations varying from 300 to 3,200. The}- are all surrounded with well cultivated lands, orchards, vines and gardens, with the sparkling waters from the adjoining mountains rippling all the streets, fields, gardens and lands, and with crops and fruits of all kinds abundant; and, taking them all in all, they are prosperous and thriving communities, in which each one of the communities seems to strive to advance the good of all. They are an industrious, hard-working, self-reliant and apparently contented people, always living within their means. The estimated population of the valley is about 17,0(K). Leaving Mendon our direction is due east to Logan, across the valley, which runs north and south. COLLEGE FARM-Midway the valley, between Mendon and Logan, is situated a farm of 9,643 acres, formerly owned by President Brig- ham Young and deeded by him just before his death, to trustees in trust to endow a college at Logan, to be called "Brigham Young Col- lege." The trustees are leasing the lands — of which there are no better in Utah — for the purpose of creating a fund to carry out the bequest. Crossing Logan river, and seven miles from Mendon, our train stops— 30 minutes for meals — at the city of Lojftlll — [Pop., 3,200; from Ogden, 58 miles; elevation, 4,497 feet]. — Is the seat of Cache county, situated on the east side of Cache valley close beside the mountains, just below the mouth of Logan canon. As a regular meal station this place is peculiar, and peculiarly Mormon, being represented by "triplets," three dining-rooms, which grade their charges for a meal, 25, 50 and To cents respectively. Many claim the former is the best. Howbeit, we cannot recom- mend the latter. The city contains two flourishing mills, a woolen-mill, the rail- road machine and repair shops of a division, two hotels (the Logan GOOD EVENING, IDAHO ! 163 and the Curtis), one bank, a brewery, a branch of the Z. C. M. I., besides a variety of stores and shops and small manufacturing establishments; also the Utah Journal. The new tabernacle is of cut stone and seats 2,500 people. Extended View — Close on the east side of the city a round, pointed plateau rises MOO feet above the streets, projecting out from the average front of the mountain range 2,000 feet into the valley; this plateau at the widest place is -500 feet and shaped like a mon- ster flat-boat, bottom upwards. Standing on the front of the plateau and looking west the city is close in the foreground, with the broad valley beyond, and in the distance over all the spur of the Wasatch range, over which we came from Bear valley. To the right and left the valley extends for nearly a score of miles in all its beauty, and no less than 15 towns and villages are in sight, surrounded by mountain ranges which rise, range upon range, and peak overtopping peak, the highest of which are robed in a perpetual mantle of snow. Logan Temple — In the most commanding position on this plateau, the Mormon people who reside in Cache and the four adjoining counties have erected a magnificent temple in which to conduct the rites and ordinances of the Mormon Church. The main building is of slate stone, 171 feet long, 95 feet wide and 86 feet high, with a grand tower, 144 feet high from base to pinnacle. Cost, complete, $500,000. Around the outer rim of the plateau a double row of trees has been planted, and the water from the mountains above conducted in little ditches all around and over the entire grounds. The settlers in Cache valley are all Mormons, and are all engaged in agricultural, horticultural and stock-raising pursuits. Connections — Mail hack: Southward six times a week to Providence, two miles; Millville, two miles; Hyrum, four miles, and Paradise, four mill 1 '-. Also northwest twice a week to Benson, six miles; Newton, seven miles; Clarkston, six miles, and Trenton, four miles. Leaving Logan our road runs north along the base of the main range of the Wasatch mountains, having described a great horse- shoe curve from the summit, which we can see across the valley to the westward. Hyde Park is reached in four miles, Smithfield in three miles, and Richmond in six miles; all small Mormon villages, situated to the right of the road beside the mountains. Franklin — Is reached in another six miles, where, if the train is "ou time" (8:03 p. in.), we can say, "Good evening, Idaho territory!" Franklin — Is one mile north of the boundary line between Utah and Idaho — [Pop., 450]. It is in the northern end of Cache valley, Oneida county, Idaho, on Chubb creek, about one mile from the station, to the northeast at the base of the mountains. The seat of Oneida county is Malad city, 40 miles to the northwest, over the mountains. The grain shipments aggregate 2,150 tons a year. From Franklin our course is niore to the westward. ' PrestOIl — [Seven miles] — Situated on Worm creek, where is located a fine body of land well cultivated. Connections — Mail hack: Northward to Riverdale, five miles, and Mink Creek, five miles, three times a week. Ki4 CONNOR'S SHOSHONE FIGHT. Rattling along over a tortuous route, through numerous deep cuts Bear river appears on the left, but far below with narrow bot- tom lands on each side; descending into the valley, the river is crossed, and passing the little side-track station of Battle Creek [from Franklin, 12 miles] we turn to the left, leaving Bear river and follow up Connor's canon; the grade is heavy, deep cuts are num- erous, sage-brush abounds, and the country is very broken — only adapted to stock-raising. Herds of sheep and some cattle are to be seen, and on reaching Marsh valley [eight miles from Battle Creek] a few well cultivated farms. Connor's Fight — with the Shoshone Indians, took place in Connor's canon in the winter of 1863-4. At the time of this fight there were two feet of snow on the ground, and the weather very cold. The Indians — some hundreds — were hid in the canon among the wiliows along the creek, and in the cedars to the right along the bluffs. By a vigorous charge of the troops the Indians were completely overcome, and, with few exceptions, none were left alive to tell the tale. The bones of the dead are still to be seen. Passing OXFORD— [From Battle Creek, n miles] — A small settlement in Marsh valley, and Swan Lake [three miles], another of the same kind, situated near a lake of that name, frequented at certain sea- sons by swans, our road keeps along the base of the mountains through a section devoted wholly to stock-raising, giving the go- by to the small Stations of CAI.VIN [seven miles], Downey [three miles], Thatcher [five miles], and Arimo [four miles], arriving at li <•< ailltllOCI — [From Arimo, seven miles; Ogden, 130 miles; Pocatello, 23 miles; Soda Springs, 45 miles; elevation, 4,763 feet]. — Is situated on Port Neuf river just below the canon of that name and at the junction of the Oregon Short Line, which comes down through the canon, on the track of which our train runs to Pocatello on third rail. For continuation of this tour to Pocatello see under Oregon Short Line, page !<>!>. >lone Fark. FOR PORTLAND AND PUGET SOUND. 165 OVERLAID FROM Green River City to the North Pacific Coast AND INTERMEDIATES via the Oregon Short-Line, A BRANCH OF THE UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY SYSTEM. There is but one regular through train a day, each way, and that is equipped with all the latest and best improvements of the times — Pullman's sleepers, etc. From Green river the route is the same as the old overland as far as Granger — see page 122. Ham's Fork — Comes down from the northwest and joins Black's Fork close to the west of Granger depot. This stream rises in Hodge's pass, 40 miles away, and runs through a well grassed section of country occupied exclusively by stock-growers, cattle and sheep principally. From Granger, our road follows up Ham's Fork to the divide of the mountains (elevation, 6,053 feet), pass through a long snow shed, and are on the drainage of the Great Utah basin. Fossil — Is a small station, 49 miles from Granger, situated on Twin creek, a small stream that finds its way into Bear river. The stations between Granger and Fossil and the distances apart, are: MOXA [seven miles], NUTRIA [seven miles], OPAL [nine miles], Waterfall [nine miles], Ham's Fork [eight miies^ and Fossil [ei^ht miles]. Coal — Large bodies of coal are said to be located along the slopes of the divide, and at one time several mines were opened and worked, loading many cars every day; but of late these mines have been idle, and the reason why is a problem ! Fossil's station was named on account of the great quantities of fossils found in the mountains near the station. These fossils are mostly of fishes, some of which are very large and perfect. They are sometimes found at the station for sale to travelers. From Fossil, we pass a number of unimportant stations: NuG- GET [seven miles], Sage [seven miles]— situated on Bear river at a point where our road turns directly north; BECKWITH [eight milesl, where are located on the left extensive hay meadows; CokevillE [twelve miles], once a meal station; BORDER [nine miles], NuphER L five miles], DlNGLE [nine miles], and to Montpelier, seven miles. Total distance from Fossil, 66 miles. RESOURCES — The industries of the country for the last (ill miles are all connected with the stock business, more or less, with only a few exceptions where settlers along Bear river have taken up land, built homes, and are doing something in the way of farming. On this route are to be seen the "home ranch" of several cattle com- panies, where large tracts of land are enclosed by fence, and a large amount of hay put up for winter use. See Bear lake, page 125. 166 SODA SPRINGS — IDAHO. Moiltpdicr — [Pop., 900; from Granger, 115 miles; Pocatello, 99 miles; elevation, 5,946 feet].— Is a thrifty Mormon settlement, situated in about the center of the Bear Lake country, opposite to the east of the northern end of Bear lake, on a gradual slope of rich agricultural land several miles in width. It has a number of stores which do a large business with people from a dozen or more small Mormon hamlets in the adjoining country. Shipments for the year ending June, 1888, were: Grain, 1,895 tons; lumber, 1,195 tons; miscellaneous, 442 tons. Total, 3,680 tons. Connections— Mail hack: Northward to Afton. Wyo., 50 miles, once a week. See also under Evanston, page 126. Leaving Montpelier, our course changes to the northwest until we reach Soda Springs, 29 miles distant. On the way we pass a number of small stations, named PESCADARO [six miles], NovEXE [eight miies], Oasis [seven miles]. Sandwiched in are some good farms, lava beds, rocky knolls, little creeks, Bear river, meadows and quite a number of new settlers, just commenced making homes. Soda Springs — Station and town. — [Pop., 500; from Montpelier 29 miles, McCammon 45 miles; Pocatello, 6S miles; Salt Lake City, 212 miles; Omaha, 1,024 miles; Portland, 1,190 miles; elevation, 5,780 feet]. — Is in Bing- ham count}-, Idaho, situated on Soda creek about one mile north from its junction with Bear river. It contains four general mer- chandise stores, two saw-mills, a large mineral water bottling es- tablishment, a brewery, a number of small shops and saloons, and two hotels— the Idanha and Williams — besides a number of boarding houses. It also contains quite a number of neat private residences and summer cottages — as, be it remembered, this place since the completion of the railroad to it, has become a great sanitarium and .summer resort, on account of the great number of mineral springs and attractions in the vicinity. Some mining operations are carried on in the country tributary — as well as important stock-raising interests. Shipments for the year ending June 30th, 1888, amounted to: Grain, 203 tons; live-stock, 1,100; miscellaneous, 892. Total, 2,195 tons. Connections— Mail hack: North, once a week, to Omega, 20 miles; Gray's, 20 miles, on John Day lake; Caribou, 16 miles, where are some rich mines and a 40-stamp mill; fare, $5. SodJi Springs — which give the name to the town and sta- tion, consists of a group of from 20 to 30 remarkable mineral springs, within a radius of three miles from the town, and over 100 within eight or nine miles. It is claimed the waters possess all the virtues of the most celebrated springs in the world. Their num- ber and variety preclude the publication of an analysis of the waters, but the different springs are charged, more or less, with bi-carbonate of soda, bi-carbonate of potash, chloride of sodium and potash, sulphate of magnesia, bi-carbonate of magnesia, lime, alumina, silica, carbonate of iron, free carbonic acid gas, and a multitude of other ingredients. One authority says "they are a spe- cific for the cure of all manner of indigestion, kidney troubles (even up to advanced symptoms of Bright's diseased and diabetes, dropsv, and a thousand kindred ills." In the early settlement of Utah it is said President Brigham Young visited these springs, in company with many of the high SODA SPRINGS — AND VICINITY. 167 priests of the Mormon Church, and blessed their waters. Can it be that to him the present and future generations are indebted for their virtues ? Howbeit, the Mormon people hold the waters in high esteem and thousands never let a summer pass without making a sojourn at the springs — many times camping out for months at a time. In a number of these springs the water is very cold, in others quite warm. Some are so highly charged with carbonic acid and other gases as to prove a most pleasing beverage. Many of the springs are known by such names as Hooper, Steamboat, Idanha, Formation, Champagna, Jewsharp, etc., etc. Idanha — Meaning "gem of the mountains," has its water charged with soda and magnesia with such a chemical nicety, that they have become so popular at home and abroad that as high as 10,000 bottles a day have been filled by the bottling company, and shipped away for use in distant places. Formation Spring — Two and a half miles distant, is a great natural curiosity. It covers several acres of land, and the water flowing over the ground is constantly forming cascades, terraces and miniature lakes, by calcareous deposit or action; new forma- tions are continually occurring, so that visitors from year to year find new attractions and many changes and transformations. Near the center of these formations is a subterranean passage or magnificent cave some 200 feet long, with an angle or L, the roof being high enough to allow people to walk in an upright position in most parts of it, and covered with stalactites, reflecting the light of torch or candle dazzling to the eye. Steamboat Spring — So named by the "Pathfinder" — Gen, Fremont, in 1843 — has a temperature of 87 degrees. It is a small geyser, the water being emitted spasmodically, and thrown several feet in its egress. Swan Lake— some miles to the eastward from the station, is another curiosity. It is a pretty little sheet of water in a cone- shaped basin, covering about two acres, surrounded with trees and luxuriant undergrowth of shrubs, etc., the rim of which is about ten feet above the surrounding country, and of calcareous forma- tion. The water is very clear, showing objects plainly at a depth of from 20 to 30 feet. The depth of the water is unknown, having been sounded for over 100 feet without finding bottom. From its surroundings, it is doubtless an old volcanic vomitory in which some of the fag-ends of the inferno still remain. The outlet is a series of small moss-covered basins arranged seemingly in regular order, the clear water overflowing the banks, trickling down into* the next emerald bowl, and then the next, again and again until it becomes a respectable-sized creek, which tumbles away to join Bear river on its way to its final grave in Great Salt lake. Sulphur Lake — Is situated in the vicinity of Swan lake, in the center of which boils up a large volume of water, strongly charged with sulphur, coating the shore with thick deposits of that suspicious mineral. In the region surrounding the springs are many other attrac- tions, worth a long journey to see and requiring mouths to explore; among them are extinct volcanos, geyser cones, beautiful lakes, wonderful caves, sulphur mountains and a boiling lake of sulphur, immense beds of lava, lava cones, etc., etc. L_ ^^ 108 SODA — AND WESTWARD. Game — Haired, feathered and furred are numerous on the plains and in the mountains, particularly deer, elk, bear, antelope, sage-hens, pheasants, hares, rabbits, etc. Fish — Well, every little stream is alive with the finest trout, to say nothing of a number of other kinds. Climate — This region is an ideal health resort. The climate is as wonderful as the water. The days in summer are warm, while the nights are invariably cool enough for blankets. Hotels — The Idanha, the Indian name for Idaho, is a large first-class hotel built by the Union Pacific Railway Co. to accommodate the many visitors at the springs. It is three stories high, surrounded on three sides by a wide veranda, and surmounted with handsome towers, and furnished first-class. It is so built that there are no inside rooms, but from every side one can look out upon the magnificent landscape. It is fitted up with all the mod- ern improvements, electric light, etc. The management is under the supervision of the railroad company. The Williams is another good hotel with all the modern im- provements for comfort and far enough from the railroad to be away from the noise of passing trains. It has 35 rooms, all fur- nished first-class, with table and attendance all that could be desired. Leaving Soda Springs there is little of interest to the traveler, unless lava beds and other evidences of the great volcanic up- heaval that once disturbed this country are of interest. Passing CRATER [five miles], SOUAW CREEK [ten miles], PEBBLE [nine miles], L,AVA [seven miles], TOPAZ [six miles], we reach McCAM- mon [seven miles], at the junction of the Utah & Northern, where we were before on Tour No. 10. The country passed over from Soda Springs is occupied by few settlers engaged in farming pursuits, stock-raising being about the chief industry. The Port Neuf river is followed most of the way, along which are some fine meadows, hot sulphur springs, grassy slopes and cozy nooks, anon bordered by rugged palisades, immense cones and craters of extinct volcanos, huge dikes and lava beds, with dark caverns and yawning chasms, and, in season, all sandwiched in with countless flowers in great varieties, varying colors, shades and tints. Leaving McCammon and following down Port Neuf river the bluffs in places on each side show many peculiar rock formations. In some places the rocks rise like a solid wall, sheer 20 to 100 feet from the river brink or road, in a line of uniform height for miles in extent, resembling huge fortifications. In several places along the road there are two and sometimes three of these walls running parallel with each other some near the road and some far away. ROBBERS' ROOST — Is in a cave of lava rock about four miles before reaching Pocatello, where a band of "road agents" rendez- voused just before they robbed the Montanastage coach, in 1864', of a large amount of gold and other valuables. Below McCammon the following stations, in name only, are passed: ONYX [four miles], INKON [seven miles], PORT NEUF [six miles], from which it is six miles to POCATELLO — NORTHWARD. 169 PocalCllO — [Pop., i, 600; from Soda Springs, 6S miles; Salt Lake City, 153 miles; Butte, 263 miles; Omaha, 1,092 miles; Portland, 730 miles; elevation, 4,466 feet]. — Is in Bingham county, Idaho, situated on Port Neuf river and the Fort Hall, Shoshone and Bannock Indian reservation. The town-site contains 1,840 acres-. The railway company have secured a title from the Interior department, and when proclaimed by the President, will be opened to settlement. At present all per- sons not connected with the railroad are here only on sufferance. The railroad company have here one of their largest hotels on the road, which is fitted up in first-class style, with fine rooms and large dining hall, as this is a meal station for most trains. The railroad company have located here the largest machine and repair shops on their whole western system, which with the round house and departments, give employment to about 800 persons. There are two general merchandise stores here and several restaurants, saloons and shops. Connections — By rail: With the Utah & Northern branch for Ogden to the south, and Silver Bow on the north. The southern route is described in Side Tour No. 10, and that for the north in Side Tour No. 11. The track of the road south is narrow gauge, and the one to the north standard gauge, which neces- sitates a transfer at Pocatello of all through passengers from the north and south on that line. Side Tour IVo. 11 — From Pocatello northward to Blackfoot, Yellowstone National Park, Dillon, Butte City, Anaconda and Deer Dodge to Garrison. ggTThis is a continuation of Side Tour No. 10 from Ogden to Pocatello. For this tour we take the cars on the Utah & Northern, a branch of the Union Pacific system. On this end of the U. & N. the road- bed is standard gauge. Turning north from Pocatello the first station is Ross Fork [n miles], where is located the agency buildings and farm of the Fort Hall, Shoshone and Bannock Indian Reservation. This reservation comprises 1,202,830 acres in Bingham county, on the Port Neuf, Ross Fork, Snake and Blackfoot rivers, of which 525,000 acres are as good as any land in Idaho or the western country. The Indians on the reservation number 1,700 men women and children; of this number 380 are engaged in agricul- tural pursuits, and raised for 1888, of wheat, oats and barley, 17,523 bushels; of potatoes, N,450 bushels; other vegetables, 1,340 bushels. Their hay product was 2,5(10 tons, and their butter, 500 pounds. The reservation Indians own of horses, 0,250; cattle, 1,000; swine, 4>; mules, two, and domestic fowls, 350. BlackfOOt — [Pop., 800; from Ross Fork, 13 miles; elevation, 5,403 feet]. Named for the Blackfoot Indians. The seat of Bingham count}-, situated on a broad sage-brush plain with the Blackfoot river one mile to the south, and the Snake about one mile to the northwest. There are a number of general merchandise stores here, a bank, U. S. land office, two forwarding companies, a number of restau- rants and shops, one weekly newspaper — the News. Also several land and mining companies. The territorial insane asylum is located near the town. 170 SCENIC — AGRICULTURE. Connections— Mail coach: Northwest daily to Arco, 50 miles; Lost River, nine miles; Antelope, nine miles; Houston, 15 miles; Carbonate, four miles; thence west to Cliff, eight miles; thence northeast to Caleb, nine miles; thence northwest to Dickey, 13 miles; thence north to Frost, 14 miles; Challis. 18 miles. Total, 149 miles. From Challis west to Custer, 33 miles, daily. From Challis north to Salmon City, 60 miles, hack, once a week. From Arco southwest to Martin. 16 miles; Era, five miles, daily From Era west to Bellevuk, 35 miles, once a week. From Arco northeast to Howe, 25 miles, once a week. From Dickey southwest to Ketchtjm, 35 miles, daily. Fare, about 1,5 cents per mile. FORT Hall — the new government post, is situated east from Blackfoot six miles. FORT Hall — old abandonded post, ten miles southwest on Snake river. IANTESS GEY5 Agriculture — There is no better agri- cultural land in the west than that in the country tributary to Blackfoot. The agri- cultural interests are yet in their infancy, but enough has been demonstrated tosatisfy the farmers that agri- cultural pursuits can be followed with great profit and large pay- ing results. All along the streams and in fact wherever water can be obtained, natural meadows can be made and the very best grades of native grasses grown. Timothy and clover do well, but al- falfa is the favorite be- cause of its rapid growth and large yield — often three crops a year of three tons each to the acre. In favored spots wheat does well, and has been known to ield from 55 to 70 to the acre. Apples, pears, plums, grapes andberriesgrow in abundance. All farming is done by ir- rigation, and water can be readily obtained by ditches from the nat- ural streams with as little labor and expeues as in any county in the territory. There m m, bushels EAGLE ROCK — MARKET LAKE. 171 has been considerable settlement in this region in the past few- years, but there are still vast tracts yet open for settlement under the existing land laws. Stock-raising is the most important industry in this region of country; cattle and horses dp well here the r year around. The pasturage, both winter and summer ranges, are exceptionally fine. In the winters when the snows are on the mountains, stock feed in the valleys and along the river bottoms, and in summer they voluntarily return to the moun- tain grasses. MINING— All along Snake river are found auriferous sands, and placer mining is being followed in many localities with good pay- ing results. Climate — The healthfulness of the climate is unsurpassed, being practically free from malaria and billious troubles incident to the country east of the Missouri river. COUNTY Valuation — The assessed value of real and personal property of Bingham county for 1888 was $2,565,130. From Blackfoot our direction is to the northeast, following up the Snake river on its eastern bank, passing the side-track of Basalt in 12 miles, where lava beds appear, and reaching in 13 miles I/Sl^lc Rock. — [Pop., i, 600; from Blackfoot, 28 miles; elevation, 4,712 feet]. — This place, before the advent of the railroad, was known as "Taylor's bridge," a bridge having been constructed over Snake river at this point in 1863 by one Taylor, who, in the following years, did "most everlastingly sinch the Montana emigrants, who came this route from the states." The railroad company have located here machine repair shops and the usual round-houses found at the junction of divisions. Eagle Rock, for some trains, is a meal station and contains half dozen general merchandise stores, a bank, brewerv, a variety of shops, restaurants and saloons, two hotels — Brooks and Chamber- lins — and one weekly paper, the Register. RUMOR — Backed up by surveys, has it that the Union Pacific Railway Co. propose at an early day to commence building a branch from this station, via Snake river canon and Jackson's lake, to the Yellowstone National Park. Game — Of all kinds abound in the valleys and in the moun- tains, while along the water courses, wild geese and ducks are legion. The streams, little and big, are full of fish, notablv the trout, which are very abundant and bite with a snap that makes an old sportsman feel happy. Connections — Mail hack: North to Lewisvillk, 17 miles: Menan, three miles; thence east to Lyman, five miles; thence northeast to Rexbtjrg nine miles; Teton, eight miles; Wilford, two miles; thence west to Egin. eight miles; and BRIGHTON, four miles, three times a week. Crossing the Snake to its west bank our direction is north, through a range of country devoted wholly to stock-raising; basal- tic knolls appear and occasional alkali sinks. Market Lake — [Pop., so; from Eagle Rock, 17 miles]. — Is the first station after crossing the Snake. The "three Tetous" are to be seen to the eastward; they over- look the Yellowstone National Park, which lies at their eastern base. - 172 YELLOWSTONE— WONDERLAND. Volcanic — The whole country now has a volcanic appear- ance — lava beds and knolls everywhere; valuless for agricultural purposes, but in and along the base of the mountains on each side from five to ten miles distant, the grasses are abundant and all kinds of stock do well. C'nilin* — [Pop., 300; from Market Lake, 21 miles; elevation. 4,822 feet]. Is the principal forwarding station for freight destined for the Lemhi agency and the mining camps to the westward. It con- tains two general merchandise stores, two hotels and a variety of shops and tradesmen. The citizens are mostly stock-men or those interested in the mines to the westward. Shipments — cattle, ores, bullion and lead. Total shipments for the year ending June 30, 1888, 6,103 tons — of which 5,011 tons were bullion and lead, and 781 tons of live-stock. Connections— Mail stage: Daily, west to Birch Crekk, 40 miles; thence northwest to Nicholia, 26 miles; thence west to Spring Mountain, 12 miles; thence northeast to Bannister, 12 miles; thence northwest to Junction, 15 miles, and to the Lemhi Agency, 20 miles; fare, about 15 cents a mile. From Lemhi Agency to Fort Lemhi, nine miles, three times a week. [See tinder "Red Rock."] From Nicholia northeast to Woodland. 12 miles. * Star route special. Proceeding on through patches of sage-brush and barren wastes of volcanic deposits, passing Dry Creek [12 miles], High Bridge [nine miles], with the mountains on both sides gradually closing in on our way, and China Point [three miles], we run plump into a mountain gorge and stop at BeaYCr CailOIl — Station — [Pop., 200; from China Point, five miles; elevation, 6,023 feet]. — Is in Bingham county, Idaho, at the mouth of the rugged Beaver canon. It contains two general merchandise stores, three saw-mills, a hotel and scores of blighted hopes; as, during the building of the road the population numbered 1,000 or more, some of whom built homes, and, after the completion of the road through the canon, deserted them, and these homes are now "for rent" cheap. Lumbering is the most important business here. Stock run the grassy ranges and grow fat and sleek, and put much coin in the purse of those who wait. Connections — During the summer season a line of passenger stages leave this station for the Yellowstone National Park, reaching Firehole basin near the southern end of the park in a distance of 100 miles. The journey is a very interesting one to those fond of grand scenery, and is made in two days, resting over night at Snake river crossing, dining at Manley'sui Madison valley, and reaching Firehole in the evening. Yellowstone National I*ark — A description of which has filled many volumes officially and otherwise and will continue so to do for all time, can only faintly present the facts, marvelous wonders and unequalled grandeur to tbe reader's eye and under- standing. Had we the space to devote, which we have not, we doubt our ability to interest the reader further than to give a few points, which may be of value to the tourist anticipating a visit to this, the greatest wonderland in the world. The first report from white men regarding the National Park that ever reached the public was made by Capt. Lacy, in 1863, but it attracted little attention. Again in 1869, two returning prospec- tors reported their wonderful discoveries in Geyser basin. This was followed in 1871, by the government sending the late Prof. Havden, U. S. geologist, to make an examination of tbe locality. In his report, accompanied by photographs, Dr. Hayden, demon- strated that this our own country contains natural wonders which YELLOWSTONE— NATIONAL PARK. m in extent, grandeur and wondrous beauty far surpass those of any other portion of the known world. The result has been a bill passed congress in 1872, setting apart a tract of country 55 by 65 miles in extent "for the benefit and enjoyment of the people," and called it the "Yellowstone National Park," taking a portion of territory from both Montana and Wyoming— principally the latter. The entire area within the limits of the reservation is over 6,000 feet in altitude. Almost in the center of this tract is located the 174 INCOMPARABLY GRAND. Yellowstone lake, a bod)' of water 15 by 22 miles in extent, with an elevation of 7,427 feet. The ranges of mountains that hem the numerous valleys on every side rise to a varied height of 12,000 feet. This country presents the most wonderful volcanic appearance of any portion of the continent. The great number of hot springs and the geysers represent the last stages — the vent or escape pipes — of these remarkable volcanic manifestations of the infernal forces. All these springs are adorned with decorations more beau- tiful than human mind ever conceived, and which have required thousands of years for the cunning hand of nature to form. The most remarkable of these geysers throws a column of boiling hot water 15 feet in diameter to a measured altitude of 150 feet. This display is continued for hours together and so immense is the quantity of water discharged that, during the eruption, the volume of water in the river is doubled. Another throws a column of hot water 200 feet in height and over a foot in diameter. It is said the geysers of Iceland, which have been the objects of interest for scientists and travelers of the entire world for years, sink into in- significance in comparison with the hot springs of the Yellowstone and Firehole basins. The mountain rim of the Yellowstone lake rises from lj500 to 4,000 feet above its surface, and except in two directions, is un- broken. To the west and southwest are breaks in the chain, through one of which appear the outlines of a conspicuous conical peak, 10,500 feet in height. In the mountain system which sur- rounds the lake are born the tributaries — almost the principal sources — of three of the largest rivers on the continent. Four ot the most important tributaries of the Missouri, namely, the Big Horn, the Yellowstone, the Madison and the Gallatin, have their springs here. Flowing first north then east, they strike the Mis- souri which in its turn flows southeasterly to the Mississippi valley, where its waters are blended with the stately stream that empties its tides at least 3,500 miles below into the Gulf of Mexico. The Snake river, whose sources are actually interlaced with those of the Madison and the Yellowstone, turns westward and traverses nearly a thousand miles of territory before it joins the Columbia on its way to the Pacific ocean. Again, the Green river rising but a few miles from the sources of the others, seeks the Colorado of the south which, after innumerable windings through deserts and a roaring passage of hundreds of miles in the abysses of canons, surpassing even those of the Yellowstone in grandeur, depth and gloom, reaches the Gulf of California. Penetrating to the lofty recesses where these springs rise, the explorer stands, as it were, astride of the grandest water-shed in the world. A pebble dropped into one spring touches a water-nerve of the Pacific; a pebble cast into another touches a similar nerve of the Atlantic. It is a thought to cause the wings of the spirit of a man in such a place to expand like an eagle's. Why the water is hot! The most wonderful story about this remarkable region is told by Langford, one of the first discoverers and first government commissioner in charge of the park. In accounting for the water being hot he says: "At a certain point on the Yellowstone river the water runs down a steep and perfect grade over a surface of slate-rock, which has become so smooth from the velocity of the rushing torrent, that, at a distance of 20 miles, the friction becomes so great that the water is boiling hot." MONTANA — STATISTICS. 175 We do not vouch for the truth of this story; and we are not certain that Langford will swear to it. In conclusion we say to you, visit the Yellowstone National Park; don't be in a hurry, spend a month there; you will find good hotel accommodations. Visit leisurely the lakes, geysers, falls, etc., and our word for it, the marvelous scenes of this wonderland will live in pleasant memory until the sands of time have reached their last grain, and the great unknown is no longer a problem. See Illustrations— Pages 21, 36, 108, 113, 104, 173 and 17-3- Also Large View No. 1 . Returning to and leaving Beaver Canon station our train rushes northward, climbing the divide separating the waters of the Pacific from those of the Atlantic. The grade is heavy, the route tortuous; the canon is passed, also the station of Pleas- ant Yau , - (Hill. The total value of taxable property in the territorv then was $12,- 000,000: nowit is $70, 000,- (H H l mot counting the value of the mining property^. The number of cattle in the terri- tory then was 220,00(1, now it is over 1,500,000: FAITHFUL — YELLOWSTONE PARK. ' ' ' 176 RED ROCK VALLEY. number of sheep then was 120,000, now it is over 2,000,000; number of horses then was 40,000, now it is 200,000; number of acres of land then under cultivation was 265,000, now there are over 2,000,000 acres appropriated and settled for farming purposes; then the commerce of the whole territory was $20,000,000, now it is $40,000,000; then there were a dozen or so miles of railroad, now there are over 2,000; then the population was 30,000, now it is 140,000; then the territory was in debt $112,000, now it is out of debt and there is plenty of money in the treasury; then taxes were high, now they are low, then the contest for the mastery of this country between the Indian and the white man was red with human blood, and even' household trembled in anxiety for the triumphs of peace and of rest; now all is quiet and the hostile foe has laid down his battle-ax, put on the robes of civilization and treads the path of industry side by side with the white man. "There are various localities in this territory separated from each other by great natural landmarks — mountains or rivers — either and each of which, considered in its extent and acreage, its quality of soil, timber, stone and water, is a great state in itself. The far- famed grain-growing Gallatin and Bitter Root valleys; the Plat Head, Yellowstone, Judith, Sun river, Missouri, Beaverhead, Big Hole, Big Horn, Rosebud, Milk river, Madison, Deer Lodge, Prickly Pear and Boulder valleys and many others have demon- strated to the world their superior capacity in the yield of wheat, oats, grass, potatoes, peas, vegetables of all kinds, small fruits and in some of them the large fruits. "These beautiful valleys, plains and their foot-hills are not ex- celled in producing qualities by any lands in the United States. The great streams of fast-going water which pass through or touch these lands is the source from which all needed irrigation can be cheaply supplied. There are many millions of acres of these lands yet in their virgin purity, inviting the plowman's hand." Spring Hill — [Pop., 100; from Monida, 15 miles; elevation, 6,265 feet]. Is a meal station for some trains. Two general merchandise stores, a hotel, the railroad round-house and repair shop comprise the place. Spring Hill is situated in the southern portion of Red Rock Valley — This valley is nearly 50 miles in length and is followed by the railroad, accompanied by Red Rock river, the entire distance. The valley is dotted at intervals with com- fortable farm houses and some fenced and well cultivated farms. Cattle, sheep and game range the grassy slopes on the east, above which can be seen patches of timber in the higher ravines, while on the west extend, as far as the eye can reach, the continental divide, rising from the valley — the lower portion timber-clad — peak upon peak to the region of perpetual snow, where their white heads stand forth as veterans of their kind, indicating age at least, if not respectability. — Rod Rook — Station — [From Spring Hill, 23 miles; elevation, 5,603 feet]. — Is reached after passing, on our way down the valley, the little side-tracks DELI, [eight miles], and Crab Tkke [six miles]. About midway between these two stations is the somewhat noted RED Rock — from which this valley, river and station derives its name; is a bold cliff, probably 500 feet in height and half a mile DILLON — BEAVER HEAD VALLEY. 177 long — projecting out into the valley from the eastward — of a bright red color, and can be seen for a distance up and down the valley for over 20 miles each way. The old wagon road follows this valley for the entire length, and this rock was a well-known land-mark for the "pilgrims" in early days. Connections — Mail stage: Westward, daily to Amesville, 16 miles; Horse Prairie, 12 miles; Fort Lemhi, 19 miles; thence northwest to Salmon City, 20 miles. From Salmon City, mail hack northwest to Gibbonville, 38 miles; thence southwest to Shoup, 30 miles, three times a week. From Salmon City, mail southwest to Challis, 60 miles, once a week. [See under "Blackfoot."] Ciraylilie — [From Red Rock station, u miles] — Is a small station opposite where Beaver Head river comes down from the west. Following down the Beaver Head through Ryan's canon, eight miles, we come to Beaver Head Rock, a bold promontory at the gateway or mouth of the canon, which here opens out into Beaver Head Valley. — This valley is about 20 miles in length by ten miles in width, well watered, very fertile and a large portion under cultivation, yielding large crops of wheat, oats, hay, vegetables, etc., etc. In the valley, on the foot-hills, and in the surrounding mountains range vast herds of cattle, horses and sheep; tributary are mines of gold, silver, copper and coal of great value, many of which have but recently attracted attention. The mountains on the west of the valley are high, many of the most elevated peaks covered with snow. This range is a continu- ation of the continental divide, heretofore noted. DillOll — [Pop., 1,500; from Pocatello, 194 miles; Butte City, 69 miles; Gar- rison, 106 miles; elevation, 5,104 feet]. — Named for the late president of the Union Pacific railway. Is the seat of Beaver Head county, situated in the center of Beaver Head valley, and contains two banks, several churches and schools, one high school, graded, many large forwarding, agricultural and general merchandise stores, one weekly newspaper (the Tribune) shops of all kinds, and several small hotels. The shipments are ore, wool, cattle, sheep and farm products. Ore shipments amount to about 750 tons a year, and wool 500 tons. Large amounts of freight for the towns and mining camps to the eastward are re-shipped from Dillon on wagons, which on their return are loaded with ore or lumber. Collections— Mail stage: Northwest, daily to Argenta, 16 miles; thence southwest to Bannock, 15 miles. From Dillon — Mail-stage northeast, daily to Sheridan, 30 miles; thence southward to Laurin, ten miles; thence southeast, to Virginia City, 12 miles. From Virginia City — Northeast, daily to Enness, 14 miles; thence north to Meadow Creek, six miles; Washington Bar, four miles; Revenue, six miles; thence east to Red Bluffs, nine miles; Lewis, four miles, and Bozeman, 2S miles. From Sheridan — Northwest, daily toSALSBURY, eight miles; Twin Bridges, three miles; thence north to Iron Rod, nine miles; Silver Star, five miles; Fish Creek, four miles; Hope, eight miles; Whitehall, six miles, and Boulder Valley, 30 miles, daily. Leaving Dillon, crossing the valley, passing Apex [12 miles], GLEN [seven miles], we drop down onto the Big Hole river and fol- low it up, passing EarlE [five miles] and stop at IHtlrOSe— [Pop.,30; fromEarle, seven miles; Dillon, 31 miles; elevation, 5,189 feet]. — Is a regular meal station where trains stop 20 minutes. 178 BUTTE CITY AND MINES. Mining, stock-raising and freighting are the occupations of the people in this vicinity. The station was named for Miss Melrose, daughter of Mrs. Blow, who resides near, and is one of the pioneers in Montana. And, by the way, the madam has an extraordinary history in connection with the hostile Indians who infested this country in early days — one worthy to rank with the most heroic deeds of bravery recorded of mothers in the annals of frontier life in this country, but we have not the space to record it. Connections — Mail stage: West, daily to Glendale, six miles, and from thence to Hecla, 12 miles, three times a week. Leaving Melrose our train dodges in and out around the cliffs and mountain spurs, .while following up a small creek 11 miles to I>ivido — another point where the waters divide — those on the north side reaching the Pacific ocean, on the south, the Atlantic. Connections — Mail: Northwest to Dewey's, five miles; Ralston, 15 miles; thence southwest to Wisdom, 35 miles; once a week. From Divide the route is tortuous, descending rapidly, passing several side-tracks of little importance. Silver Bow — [From Butte city, seven miles]. — This station is the end of the Utah & Northern, and the connecting point with the Montana Union railway. Here you will hear "passengers for Anaconda, Deer Lodge and Garrison, change cars; those for Butte City, keep your seats." We keep our seat, the train turns to the right and follows up a tributary of Deer Lodge river in view of the old placer diggings, once so rich, now abandoned — and seven miles climbing, passing mills and smelters, reach BllllO City — [Pop., 26,000; from Tocatello, 263 miles; elevation, 5,482 feet]. The seat of Silver Bow county, situated on a slope of the moun- tains facing south. The city contains many fine business blocks built of stone and brick, has three banks and banking houses, eight smelting works, three stamp-mills, four immense lumber yards, four foundries and machine works, three boiler works, three breweries, five places of amusement, scores of hotels — all poor ones — the St. Nicholas is best; eight churches, and schools 23 in number, many small miscellaneous manufactories, two daily news- papers — the Inter-Mountain and the Miner — electric light, tele- phone, etc., with motor, street and horse cars, and secret and be- nevolent orders, and stores and shops of all kinds. Mining Industry — The magnitude of the mining industry at Butte City and vicinity, and the overwhelming evidences, on all sides of the extent, richness and prominence of the comparatively few mines already developed is truly paralyzing — particularly to an ordinary scribe desiring only to give a full and plain statement of the mining industry. We have visited the "Comstock" in its palmy days, interviewed "Leadville" in its glory, and have found words to describe them; but this "Butte mining camp" is a great way ahead of both of those noted mining camps— taking them at their best. So don't look for any description here, but at the fol- lowing significant figures. In the vicinity of Butte placer mines have been worked since 1864, yielding some millions in gold; and they are worked now to some extent. MINERAL BELT — ANACONDA. 179 The first quartz mine location here was in 1864 but the first leading to important results dates back only to 1875. There are four classes of ores in the vicinity of Butte. The first produces only silver; the second only copper; the third, gold and silver; the fourth, silver and copper. The Mineral Belt — Is about four by six miles in extent, and the number of claims exceed 4,000; but the greater number of the locations and all the most valuable and productive mines are from one-quarter to three miles from Butte post office, in all directions. Of the 4,000 claims nearly 1,700 are "patented," yet not more than 200 of these mines are being worked, principally for the reason that they are owned by business men who are too much occupied to enlarge their present field of operations. The greater number, however, cannot be worked profitably until more mills and smelt- ers are erected conveniently near for treating the ores, as those here are already taxed to their full capacity. Another reason — most of the ores are low grade, and will not pay freight charges to eastern markets. Come to the telephone and we will say to you: "The out-put of all classes of ores at Butte averages 65,000 tons per month. " "The 840 stamps at Butte treat 500 tons of ore per day;" "the three custom nulls treat 70 tons a day;" "the chloridiziug stamp mills consume 14,000 tons of salt annually;" "the number of men em- ployed underground in the mines is 4,700;" "the pay-roll of the mining companies is .$470,500 per month;" "the smelters treat 1,500 tons of ore a day;" "there are about 25 producing mines;" "there are 73 mines in different stages of development;" "the precious and base metal out-put of Butte for 1887 was $16,- 143,500;" "and in conclusion, would say further, Butte has never had a boom, but has steadily marched to the front;" "she has the mines now waiting for developments capable of quadrupling the above figures." WALKERVILLE [two miles], MEADERVILLE [two miles], and BUR- LINGTON [three miles], are all thrifty suburbs of Butte City. Connections— By rail: Montana Central railroad and Montana Union railway. By mail 'stage: Northeast to Woodville, nine miles, and to Basin, 12 miles, daily. Taking the cars of the Montana Union, formerlv the Utah & Northern, we return to Silver Bow, seven miles, and start again for the north, following down Deer Lodge river, in its winding ways, 11 miles to Stuart, a junction station, where a spur of the road leads westward, seven miles, to Anaconda. Passenger trains make a de- tour over this spur, returning to Stuart junction, proceed north to Deer Lodge and Garrison. AliaCOllda — [Pop., 3, 500; from Butte City, 26 miles; Deer Lodge, 30 miles]. Is a "phenomenal" city, in Deer Lodge county, situated on Warm Spring creek, a tributary of Deer Lodge river. The site of the town is a smooth plat with a surface requiring no grading — com- posed of cement clay and coarse gravel, free from mud, where the abundant snow-waters from the mountains to the west and south are conducted through the streets at trifling expense. The town plat is on the south side of the railroad track and Warm Spring creek, close beyond which the bluffs rise 011 a slope of one to one and a half feet; here is located the Anaconda smelter and concentrator, built on the slope with rail tracks belozv and above the works. By this arrangement ore, coal and wood are 180 WARM SPRINGS — DEER LODGE. moved by gravity from the upper track, while the bullion bars reach the cars on the lower track — all without handling. When the smelting company commenced building their works in 1884, there was not a settler in the vicinity. The first works consisted in part of one 14-stack smelter, building 498 feet long; one 12-stack smelter, building 390 feet; one calciner, 350 feet, and one cenceutrator, building 240 feet long; besides a great number of smaller buildings. Total cost, $1,000,000. Capacity, 500 tons per day, operated by water from Warm Spring creek. The ores treated here come over the railroad from the Anaconda mine at Butte City. Subsequently, in 1885-'7, the capacity of these works was doubled by building an additional plant. The company is now capable of producing 68,000,000 pounds of pure copper annually, using 75,000 tons of coal and 48,000 cords of wood. The product of the works for 1887 was $5,200,000 — the largest in the world. The town contains stores and shops of all kinds, and from the amount of money paid out monthly by the smelting company, one might readily conclude that all the citizens would have their pockets full of coin. In the territory of Montana there are stamp mills aggregating 975 stamps, and 11 smelting plants, with a capacity of 4,430 tons every 24 hours. From Stuart junction, passing down the beautiful and produc- tive valley of Deer Lodge, it is seven miles to Warm Spring' 1 * — [From Butte City, 25 miles; Deer Lodge, 15 miles]. Here in the centre of Deer Lodge valley are 18 springs varying in temperature from 115 to 194 degrees. The wonderful cone-shaped spring, with an elevated natural tank 42 feet in height and 400 feet in diameter, is a curiosity unparalled. The achievements of these medicinal waters have been so great that extensive accommodations have been provided by erecting a large hotel and bath-houses. The analysis of the waters are: Iron, 21 per cent. ; chloride of sodium, eight and one half per cent.; magnesia, nine per cent, with a trace of arsenic. All trains stop at Warm Springs station, and no traveler should pass without paying this famous place a visit. Passengers are scarcely recovered from their* wild curiosity at the sight of the big cone-shaped spring with its bubbling crest, when the brakeman shouts "Deer Lodge " — Ah! that name \ To old Montanians, Deer Lodge is a dear old town, abounding in dear recollections, the residence of many dear friends; in fact, it is the center at this time for many deers. It is the seat of Lodge county, on Deer Lodge river, near the center of Deer Lodge valley, and, until the gold excitement of 1862-3, was known only by our dear Indian brother as the lodge of the white-tail deer, hence the name. This was long before this dear country was known to the gold hunting "pilgrims." Of the industries, churches, schools, etc., etc., they are diversi- fied, prosperous and of a high order. Deer Lodge, although one of the oldest towns in Montana, has not increased in population with the rapidity of many younger places but its growth has been permanent and substantial. Present popu- lation, about 2,000. The city contains stores and shops of all kinds. DEER LODGE VALLEY. 181 Stock-raising is one of the greatest industries, wool being one of the most important products among the shipments. The McBurney is the principal hotel, and the New Northwest the best weekly newspaper in the territory. DEER Lodge Valley — Is one of the richest and most produc- tive in Montana; with abundance of water for irrigation produces large returns in cereals of all kinds. The valleys, uplands, and mountain foot-hills are covered with the richest grasses, upon which feed large herds of cattle, horses aud sheep. Game — both haired and feathered — is abundant in the adjoining mountains; as well as trout and other fish in all the streams. COLLEGE of Montana — the pride of the people of Montana — is located at Deer Lodge, half a mile southeast of the business center, on a plateau comprising a few hundred acres elevated 1 00 feet above the town, commanding a very extensive view of the sur- rounding country, and is the only institution of the kind in the territory or within 500 miles. The buildings are extensive and modern; its furniture, apparatus and instruments new and com- plete, and its various courses of study are equal to those of any other institution — east or west. The grounds comprise about 20 acres within the village limits. The buildings are brick, large and roomy, and command a view of the lovely valley of Deer Lodge for nearly 30 miles, interrupted only by the picturesque mountains which are round about, with their lofty peaks over 13,000 feet above sea level, where is visible at all seasons God's mantle of purity — the everlasting snow. The altitude of Deer Lodge is 4,532 feet — the air pure and in- vigorating — the climate all that could be desired, neither exces- sively warm in summer nor too cool in winter; in fact, it seems particularly favorable to the rapid development of the intellectual faculties. Here, young people can pursue their studies surrounded by an atmosphere of as moral and refined society as can be found in any New England town, and free from the allurements and temptations incidental to a large city. When these, and other advantages are generally understood in the east, the buildings of the "College of Montana" will need to be greatly enlarged. Leaving Deer Lodge and following down the beautiful valley, where fine farms and comfortable farm-houses are the rule, nine miles brings our train to the end of the road and the end of this tour, at the little wayside station of OftI*ri§OIl — [From Poeatello, 318 miles; Helena, 49 miles; elevation, 4,338 feet].— is situated on Deer Lodge river at the junction of the Montana Union with the Northern Pacific, another great railroad line. But we cannot extend our wanderings in this direction any further, aud shall now return to Poeatello, and start once more on our main tour— west. A Vassar girl's composition:— "A cow is an animal with four legs on the underside. The tail is longer than the legs, but is not used to stand on. The cow kills flies with its tail. A cow has big ears that wiggle on hinges; so does their tail. The cow is bigger than the calf, but not so big as an elephant. She is made so small that she can go in the barn when nobody is looking. Some cows are black, and some hook. A dog was hooked once. She tossed the dog that worried the cat that killed the rat. Black cows give white milk; so do other cows. Milkmen sell milk to buy their little girls dresses, which they put in water and chalk. Cows chew cuds, and each finds its own chew. That is all there is about cows." 182 DOWN SNAKE RIVER. AGAIIV WFSTWARD-Froin I'ocatcllo. Leaving Pocatello our direction is westward, crossing a broad sage-brush plain, the Shoshone and Bannock reservation, occupied exclusively as a stock range; passing the following stations, accord- ing to the time card: MTCHAUD [eight miles], BANNOCK [three miles], where Bannock creek is crossed, Sunshine [four miles], and then [ten miles] comes the American Falls— Station — [pop., 50; from pocatello, 25 miles; ele- vation, 4,341 feet]. — Is situated on the south bank of the Snake river, just above the falls of that name, in the northwest corner of Oneida county, Idaho, of which Malad City is the seat. It contains one general merchandise store. The principal business iu this region is stock-raising; some farming is done along the river. The shipments for the year ending June 30, 1888, in tons were: ( Train, 256; live-stock, 840; miscellaneous products, 60. Total, 1 , 1 52 tons. Connections— Mail hack: South to Rockland. 22 miles, twice a week. Three Buttes — prominent peaks, are in plain view, 44 miles away, as the "bird flies." American Faee.s — Immediately after leaving the station and while crossing to the north side of the Snake river on a fine iron bridge, these falls appear on the left. The river here tumbles over a ridge of basaltic rocks in a series of drops from five to 15 feet each, aggregating within a hundred yards a fall of about 75 feet. At certain stages of the water the falls present a very interesting picture, and at all times making more noise than many others that are more pretentious. — See opposite page. American Faees Bridge — Is a "deck" bridge, two wooden spans I6O2 feet each in length; one wooden span 180 feet long, and one iron span 250 feet long. Height of rail above ordinary stage of water, 75 feet; height above high water-mark, 45 feet. Leaving American Falls and proceeding westward, we enter the great Snake RIVER eava fieeds. These fields are of vast pro- portions, extending from Beaver canon to the northeast, all along the north side of the Snake river in the shape of a great semi-circle to near the western border of the territory, varying in width from ten to 60 miles. These "fields" are very generally covered with a rank growth of sage-brush and grease-wood and sandwiched with "bunch" and other excellent and luxuriant grasses. Lava in im- mense beds, buttes, knolls, dykes and ridges appear in places over the whole tract. The question is often asked: "Where does all the lava come from as there are no volcanic mountains for hundreds of miles?" But the question is still unanswered. There is no ques- tion, however, but the whole area was once a simmering mass, that, being submerged iu water, resulted in many curious fractures and deep crevices, into some of which a stone being dropped will go clinking from side to side down, down, until the noise gradually dies away, apparently without bottom being reached, or thud it may go into the water. These cracks, crevices and chasms are from a few inches to many feet in width, extending for many miles. On this vast tract are many springs, and a number of good-sized creeks, which come down from the northern mountains to get lost or sink in these lava fields. AMERICAN FALLS AND BRIDGE. In places along the creeks where water can be had for irrigation without its sinking, the land has been taken up by settlers and the yield of all kinds of crops is as good as in any part of the west- ern country. 18-4 SHOSHONE — NORTHWARD. On this vast tract there is no question of the fertility of the soil for agricultural purposes, neither is there any lack of water in streams high enough to irrigate the lauds, but the great prob- lem, how to get the water over the lauds, is the one that must be solved before any considerable portion of it can ever be more than a good stock range. There! while we have been talking about the lava fields, the train has passed NapaTI [nine miles] and Wapi [eight miles], and has just completed the run [16 miles] to Minidoka — A side-track station, in Alturas county, where the stage connections are of far more importance than the station. Connections — Mail hack: South to Albion, 30 miles; thence west to Thatcher, 15 miles; thence south to Island, ten" miles; thence southwest to Marion, five miles; thence south to Oakley, five miles; thence east to Basin, seven miles, three times a week. From Albion, mail coach daily, southeast to Conant, 15 miles; Bridge, ii miles, and Kelton, on C. P. R. R., 35 miles. From Bridge, mail hack north to Malta, 14 miles; thence east to Subletto, 15 miles, twice a week. From Bridge, mail southwest to Earncliff, nine miles; Almo, 19 miles, once a week. From Earncliff", mail southwest to Yost, ten miles, once a week. There will be little change in the landscape or country for the next 47 miles from that passed over in the last 30 miles; lava knolls and sage, paper stations and rock cuts, comprise the route as our train rolls by Omani [eight miles], Kimama [nine miles], OWINZA [14 miles], WAUCANZA [eight miles] and stops [eight miles] at SllOSllOlie — [Pop., 800; from Pocatello, 10S miles; Huntington, 219 miles; Hailey, 57 miles; Ketchum, 70 miles; elevation, 3,973 feet]. — Is Situated OH Little Wood river, in Alturas county, at the junction of the Wood river branch. The railroad company have quite extensive machine shops here, employing about 250 men. There are a num- ber of good stone business blocks and stores and shops of different kinds. Two churches, a good school, two hotels — the Dewey and the Falls — and one weekly paper, the Journal. At this place we find a "telephone" hotel (the first on our tour) of which more anon. Stock-raising is the chief industry in this region; the shipments ending June 30, 1888, were 1,315 tons, of which 570 tons were live- stock, and 148 tons grain. Connections — Rail: The Wood river branch of the Union Pacific system; also mail hack, southeast twice a week to Shoshone Falls, 25 miles; thence southward to Rock Creek, 12 miles; thence east to Thatcher, iS miles; thence north to Jessie, nine miles. In the tourist season a stage coach runs daily between Shoshone and Shoshone Falls; fare. $3, or $5 for the "round trip." See description of Shoshone Falls, further on. Side Tour No. 12 — From Shoshone northward to Belxevue, and Haieey to Ketchum. There is only one passenger train a day over this line, and that usually leaves Shoshone in the morning, runs to Ketchum for noon meal and returns to Shoshone in the evening. Leaving Shoshone the road follows up Little Wood river north- east, crossing and recrossing it a number of times, and dodging around lava ridges, knolls and buttes, passing an occasional set- tler's cabin, with a little patch of land cleared of the rank sage- shrub and cultivated — raising hay and vegetables principally. The stations for 'IS) miles are on paper, but do not materialize; hence shall be nameless. IT WILL PAY All visitors to the Paci- fic Northwest to call and inspect the mag- nificent stock of THE VERY BEST AND LATEST IMPROVED FARM, DAIRY, MILL AND MINING MACHINERY ENGINES, BOILERS and SAW-MILLS, WAGONS, BUGGIES, CARRIAGES, CARTS, HARNESS, And Machine and Vehicle Specialties and Supplies of every description, carried by STAVER & WALKER NEW MARKET BLOCK, Portlani >, Oregon. The largest Dealers in Machinery and Vehici.KS on the Paci- fic Coast. All their goods have been specially built for them by the oldest and most reliable manufacturers in the United vStates and are guaranteed the best, while their Prices are the Lowest, quality considered. BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE MAILED FREE. BraQGf? J4ou5<^s: SPOKANE FALLS, W.T. WALLA WALLA, W.T. SEATTLE, W.T. POMEROY, W.T. COLFAX, W.T. MOSCOW, IDAHO. LA GRANDE, OREGON. No. 5. CAPE HORN. See Pace 250. COLUMBIA RIYER. Wasl)ir\gtori Territory Angus Mackintosh Prest. Abram Barker, Vice-Prest. R. N. McFadden, Cashier. Merchants' National Bank Of SEATTLE, W.T. UNITED STATES DEPOSITORY. Capital, $100,000. Surplus and Profits, $20,000. We receive accounts of Banks, Bankers, Corporations, Manufact- urers, Firms and Individuals on favorable terms, and will be pleased to meet or correspond with those who may contemplate opening accounts. Collections carefully made and promptly accounted for on moderate terms. Foreign Exchange Bought and Sold. Circular Letters of Credit. Telegraphic and Cable Transfers. For bargains in REAL ESTATE; For F\REE descriptive matter of WASHINGTON TERRITORY AND OK ITS CHIEF CITY, SEATTLE, Or, for the best route to reach, this City, write to ESHELMAN, LLEWELLYN & CO. SEATTLE, WASHINGTON TER. WOOD RIVER — CAMAS PRAIRIE. 185 l'iUlll';i — [Pop., 90; from Shoshone, 29 miles; Bellevue, 22 miles]. — Is a little hamlet of farmers and stock-raisers to the right of the road on Little Wood river. Hay is the principal crop, although vege- tables arid small grain are grown to some extent. Shipments of grain for the season, 307 tons. Turning now to the northwest, the lava country gradually changes, and as our train emerges from a long deep cut a beauti- ful valley is spread out before it, and the conductor shouts "Picabo!" the brakeman shouts "Picabo!" the passengers take up the refrain and say "Picabo." Then the train stops at Picabo — Station— and the joke is so good that "Picabo" was on the tongue of everybody from that time whenever any surprising bit of scenery suddenly appeared. IvEDUC — Is the post office name for Picabo. [From Tikura, eight miles; Bellevue, 14 miles; pop., 50]. — Situated on Silver creek in the midst of extensive hay meadows, the finest seen for main- a mile. Connections — Mail hack: East toCARV, 12 miles, once a week. As we proceed the valley widens; Silver creek comes down on the east side and Wood river on the west side, between which is the finest body of land yet seen in Idaho. From half a mile in width at Picabo the valley spreads out, within six miles, to a width of ten miles then gradually narrows within 20 miles, to half a mile in width. This is the northern and eastern portion of the famed Wood River Vaeley and Camas Prairie country. The for- mer is from one to ten miles wide and 50 miles long, the latter 70 miles long and 20 miles wide; collectively, they are the beau ideal of a farming and stock-raising country. The soil is a rich black loam, with a clay sub-soil which is said to hold water aud moist- ure to a marvellous degree, making irrigation unnecessary. Yet abundance of water can be had from the streams for irrigation, and by wells in from three to ten feet from the surface. Those who have had the opportunity for knowing and are disinterested say: "The numerous creeks which are flowing through this region keep the clay soil wet, so that however dry the top may look, you will always find plenty of moisture within a few inches of the surface. This condition of soil renders the lands very productive. Immense crops of oats, wheat, barley and all small grains, and all kinds of vegetables and fruits can be grown easily and to great profit. The natural grasses yield wonderful crops of hay, and tame grasses, wherever tried, flourish amazinglv. Timothy, alfalfa and clover make great crops, and the former has been known to yield three tons to the acre. " Gov. Stephenson, in his report to the Secretary of the Interior for 1888, says: "On the Spring Brook ranch, the home of Hon. John Hailey, I saw last month a field of timothy sown last April standing three feet high, and so thick that you could scarcely part it with your hand to see the ground. There were cut and weighed four and a half tons of thoroughly cured clean timothy hay per acre. A field of timothv, five months from the seed, yielding four and a half tons of cured hay per acre is hard to believe, but it is nevertheless true." At Armstrong's ranch, in 1886, five acres of volunteer wheat yielded 522 bushels, or at the rate of one hundred and four bushels per acre. Volunteer wheat yields are recorded in a number of instances, which amounted to 75 bushels per acre. The soil is so 186 ON WOOD RIVRR BRANCH. well adapted to the raising of potatoes and vegetables that a yield less than one ton of potatoes per acre is a great disappointment, while of rutabagas, carrots, etc., less than two tons is not consid- ered an average crop. Barley yields are a matter of record, where the product amounted to 65 bushels to the acre, without any irrigation. Alturas County, in which the Wood river and Camas prairie country is located, is 190 miles in length and varying from 60 to 120 miles in width, and has almost any desired climate that may be selected at the different points of elevation. All fruits and grain pertaining to the temperate zone can be cultivated successfully and in almost unlimited quantities. There can be no better stock-raising country found on the con- tinent, affording in the high mountains the finest summer ranges, and the lower plains can scarcely be excelled for winter grazing. [Pop., 16,250]. Assessed valuation, $3,737,552. There are 16 quartz-mills. 16 concentrators, four samplers and four smelters in the county. Of cattle, 23,835; horses, 7,363; mules, 183; sheep, 31,1)41, and hogs, 1,622 head. The principal towns are Hailey, the county seat ; Bellevue, Ketchum, Atlanta, Shoshone, Mountain Home, Rockv Bar and Pine Grove. As her valleys are rich and productive, so are her mountains seamed with rich gold, silver, lead, copper and other minerals. Fish and game are also abund- ant in the streams and mountains. BcliOVIlO — [Pop.. 1. 'too; from Shoshone, 52 miles; Hailey, five miles; elevation. 5,171 feet]. — .Settled in 1880. Situated in the beautiful valley of Wood river; has water works, and water running through all the streets, which are bordered by shade trees; it has four churches and good schools, one bank, one ore sampler, a large flouring-mill, three hotels — International and Arlington are the principal ones — and (.tie weekly newspaper, the Herald. There are a number of brick buildings and many neat private residences. Bellevue has an elegant "driving park " and the citizens some lively steppers. Mining is the principal industry. The total shipments for the year ending June 30, 1888, amounted to 7,131 tons — of which 6,892 tons were ore, 76 tons grain, and 41 tons stone and cement. Connections— Mail hack: West, daily to Broadford, two miles. To the east, Era, 32 miles, once a week. To the northeast, Mn.noox, 22 miles, once a week. To the southwest. Stan ion, ii miles, twice a week. !l;lih'> — [Pop., 2,150; from Bellevue. five miles; Ketchum, 12 miles; elevation, 5,342 feet].— Settled in 1881. Is the seat of Alturas county, situated in the northern end of Wood river valley, which is here about one mile wide, between high grass-covered mountains rising to a 1,000 feet or more above the valley. Wood river runs to the west of the town beside the mountain, from which a gradual slope or terrace rises to the eastward, upon which stands the business portion of Hailey. Water works, canals and ditches supply the town with water for domestic and irrigating purposes. Water runs through all the principal streets and into the gardens and grounds of the citizens. The w T alks are lined with shade and ornamental trees, and the streets kept free from dust by timely sprinkling. Brick buildings are the rule here. Many of the business blocks are as large and fine as can be found anywhere in the western cities, and an energetic Board of Trade is ever on the alert in the HAILEY — HOT SPRINGS. 187 interest of progress and development. There are four churches here and one large handsome school building which cost $35,000; stores and shops of all kinds, one sampling, one iron works, and one, saw-mill, three hotels — Alturas and Merchants' are the principal ones — one theatre and two daily and weekly newspapers, the Tillies and the News-Miner; also electric light, telephone, etc. The county court house is a fine building of brick and stone ; cost, $50,000. The timber supply within ten miles of Hailey is abundant. Land Office— The U. S. land office for the district of Hailey is located here and the records show 19,000,(100 acres in the dis- trict, of which less than 1,000,0(10 have been surveyed. Much of this land is as valuable as any in Idaho, and can be taken up under any of the existing land laws. \V\TER Power — The water power of Wood river comprises 100,000 miners' inches, and affords ample power for driving mills, machinery, etc., etc. Drives — The drives are admirable. Natural roads lead from the town to the overlooking ridges of mountains in the vicinity, through scenery which, for picturesqueness, ruggedness and grand- eur can hardlv be excelled. .Shipments — The shipments from Hailey for the year ending June 30, 1888, amounted to 3,146 tons — of which 2.01:2 tons were ores, 33 tons grain, 20 tons hides, and 13 tons wool. In conclusion, for much valuable information, kind words and attention on our late visit to Hailey. we are under special obliga- tions to Mr. Robert E. Strahorn, one of the first among the early pioneers to appreciate and make known the wonderful resources of the country, and T. E. Picotte, Esq., editor and proprietor of the Wood River Times, a daily journal loaded with more vim, nerve and push than am in the west. Connections — Mail hack: Southwest to Gilman four miles; thence north to Bullion, two miles, daily. To the southwest to Donaphan, 12 miles Hays. ten miles; Humphries, nine miles; Grichton, seven miles; Soldier, six miles, and Corrall, five miles, three times a week. Hailey Hot Springs — One and a half mile west from Hailey, in plain view from the Alturas house, are the famous Hailey hot springs, in a most charming little park or glen, overlooked by high mountains, in the sides of which are numerous mining shafts and tunnels in plain view from the springs. Large volumes of water, of a temperature of 150° and containing sulphate of soda, iron, magnesia, sulphur and other desirable in- gredients are emitted from scores of springs. Commodious swim- ming baths are provided. It is said that many patients have gone to these springs with chronic cases, believed to be hopeless, of neuralgia, paralysis, dyspepsia, inflammatory or mercurial rheu- matism and other complaints for which the Arkansas springs are considered a specific, and after a few months of bathing and drink- ing have left completely restored. The baths are also very popular with those in good health, thousands visiting them anuually for the delightful effect of a plunge. In the summer of 1888 these springs and 800 acres of land in the vicinity were purchased by Chicago cap- italists and a grand plan of improvements commenced. They con- sist in part of a pavilion 50 by 105 feet, two stories and basement, in which there are large and small bath rooms, ball room, parlor, dining 188 KETCHUM — IDAHO. room, billiard roorn, ten-pin alley and rooms for persons to rest in after bathing. The bath tubs are porcelain, and all else in keeping with them. The new buildings are located on the flat a half mile below the springs, within sight of Hailey, and the grounds are being laid off and cultivated in the highest style of landscape art so as to make the place as attractive as possible. The new buildings are not used as a hotel, any further than serving with the finest lunches and temporary rest after bathing, while there are ample arrange- ments for amusements. A complete system of water works is being put in for the buildings and grounds. These improvements will cause an outlay of $40,000, and are to be finished during the present season. There will be on the grounds three lakes, one for outside swimming and bathing, and the other two for the cultivation of trout and other fish, and boating. Thousands of trees are being planted on the grounds, about the springs and around the buildings, and it will not be long before this will become a most delightful resort. The company own 150 registered pedigreed short horn cattle, said to be the largest pedigreed herd west of Iowa. The entire investment, aggregating $70,000, is made by Robert Strahorn & Co., the senior partner of whom is well known in connection with the Chicago stock yards, and the junior of the lit- erary department of the Union Pacific railway. The latter is in charge at the springs. Hourly carriages from Hailey. g@T*As a center for hunting and fishing tours Hailey is unriv- alled. Could you secure Mr. Strahorn as a companion and guide the outing would ever live in pleasant memory. Leaving Hailey and following along up Wood river north, the valley is gradually crowded to a narrow strip and finally com- pletely out, by towering mountains upon each side, the black walls of which, in places, stand sheer 1,000 feet above the train ; in others, groves of pines and firs darken the narrow way and rise full ten score feet above the road and the roaring river by its side. And so we go to KetcllUlll — [Pop , 1,250; from Hailey, 12 miles, Shoshone. 69 miles; ele- vation, 5,823 feet], — Is in Alturas county, situated on Wood river, at the end of the Wood river branch of the Union Pacific railway. One of the largest smelting works in Idaho is located on the west- ern edge of the town. Ketchum has four churches, a school building that cost $12,000, a hall that seats 800 persons, two saw-mills, one bank, one brewery, one weekly newspaper — the Keystone — and two hotels, the Palace and Baxter; also general merchandise stores, shops, etc. Fishing and hunting near Ketchum are all that the most greedy sportsman could des're. Trout are abundant. The shipments for the year ending June 30th, 1888, amounted to 3,380 tons — of which the principal items were: Bullion and lead, 1,697 tons; ores, 1,588 tons, and lumber, 483 tons. The mountains and h!lls are mostly grassed to their summits with the most nutritious feed on which stock do well in summer, and for winter, they are driven to the valley. Connections— Mail coach: Northeast, daily to Dicker . 35 miles. [See under "Blackfoot."| North, mail hack three times a week to Boulder, [2 miles; thence north- west to Galena. 12 miles. Southwest, three times a week to Smoky, 28 miles; south to H \\s. 25 miles. [See under "Hailey."] Mining and lumbering are about the only industries. The town is surrounded by small mining camps. One can see "jack trains" (burros) stringing down over the hills loaded with ore, and others loading at the depot with merchandise for the mines. These trains number as high as 100 animals in a train, and tramp off for hours at a time, loaded with from 150 to 2o0 pounds in weight. Large freight teams, six and eight span of mules, are also to be seen which haul merchandise and ores between this and distant towns to the north, west and east. The ores carry silver and lead principally. Guyer Hot Sulphur Springs— Are a great attraction at Ket- chum. They are located two and a half miles west from the town on Warm Spring creek, in a wild and romantic glen. The waters fairly gush from numerous crevices in the rocks, and where not controlled, drop in little cascades to the creek below, some 30 feet or more. The waters of these springs are said to be specially valuable for the cure of rheumatism, dyspepsia, gout, liver complaints, and impurities of the blood; bathing in and drinking the water effect wonderful improvement, if not cures, within a very short time. The improvements at the springs are a fine hotel well furnished, with accomtnodations-for 30 persons, with reception, dining and billiard-rooms, extensive stables, cottages for guests, two plunge baths, 30x60 feet, and a number of tub baths. The water is con- veyed through pipes from the springs above to the several bath- houses, and is so arranged that any desired temperature can be 100 TO SHOSHONE FALLS. had. Some neatly furnished sleeping rooms have baths attached, so that patients who desire can have all the benefits of these waters without any exposure to the outer air, or without necessi- tating leaving their rooms. Analysis — The following is the analysis of the waters from a distinguished chemist : Bellevue Hospital Medical College, i New York, August 9, 1S82. 1 The sample ot mineral water from the boilitg springs of Ketchum, Idaho, sent me, yields an analysis — Sodium Chloride, grains per Imp. gal 3,578 Sodium Carbonate " 9,965 Calcium Sulphate, " 6,574 Magnesium Sulphate '" " : 0,534 Magnesium Chloride " " " 0,914 Organic matter, with tracesof iron and silica 1,240 Total Solids 22,805 Yours respectfully, K. OGDBN DOREMTJS, M.D., LL.D. Prof. Chemistry and Toxicology in Bellevue Hospital Medical College. Temperature of water, 165 Fahr. The scenery in the vicinity of these springs is exceptionally grand, as is the trout fishing in the streams. Returning to Shoshone, we start for the south — by stage. Side Tour Xo. 13 — From Shoshone southeast to the Great Shoshone Falls.— (.sir large view No. j.) During the tourist season a "coach and four" leaves Shoshone every morning for the falls. Sometimes parties prefer chartering a special outfit with driver, others take saddle animals. The latter plan is the best, provided a good horse can be obtained and one is accustomed to riding. This tour is sure to be a dusty one, hence a close fitting duster is worth many times its price for this trip alone. The scenery on the way is not very interesting, unless lava beds, buttes and knolls, garnished with sage-brush and peppered with the basis of creation, are of interest. And, by the way, if dust is an essential element in the creation of human beings, Idaho and eastern Oregon at certain seasons could furnish an immense amount of raw material . The Shoshone canon is nearly 70 miles in length, and besides numerous rapids and small cascades, has two very notable falls. The first from the east is known as Twin Falls — Sometimes called "Upper Shoshone;" they are three miles above the great falls, and have a single leap of ISO feet. lust above the falls, about midway the stream, is situated a tongue- shapedrock which divides the river into two narrow channels, each about 7-"> feet in width, through which the waters rush with great velocity. The rapids below the falls only extend a few hundred yards and then the stream becomes smooth and apparently almost still. At this point, near midway between the greater and lesser falls, is the PERRY Crossing — Established here nearly 20years ago, Near at hand is the ferryman's Cottage-hotel, which, until recently, has been the only house of entertainment for the traveler in this vicin- ity. A wagon rpad has been cut in the northern wall of the canon, materially shortening the distance to the ferry over that by the old trail. Crossing the river to the south side we find a large hotel GREAT SNAKE RIVER FAEES. 101 A recently erected, and admirably located to afford the most exten- sive views of much of the most beautiful and interesting scenery. Below the ferry, a short distance, the river contracts to a width of about 600 feet, and rapids follow to the final jump. Rushing on towards the brink of the great fall the river seems to divide its forces and dodge around a trio of little rocky islands. In its mad career it becomes very turbulent, jumping here and there, forming a number of little cascades. Two of the largest are called "Bridal Veil" and "Bridal Trail," the drop being about 80 feet each. It is said the name was suggested by portions of the river pouring over in lace-like forms, a resemblance, as the water and spray glistened in the sunlight, to a royal bride's veil and trail. Now should any betrothed ever take f/iaf "trail" she never would survive to take the "veil." The width of the river at the point of taking the last leap is about 000 feet; the fall, 220 feet. Before the river reaches the cascades it runs between lofty walls, which close in around it, until but a narrow gorge is left for the passage of the water 1,000 feet below the tops of the bluffs. The most complete view of the falls is obtained from Lookout point, a narrow spit of rocks which pro- jects from the main bluffs a short distance down the stream from the falls. From this point Eagle rock rises before us, in the midst of the rapids, and almost overhanging the falls, fully 200 feet high — its pillar-like top surmounted by an eagle's nest, where, year after year, the monarch of the air has reared its young. Near the center of the river are several islands covered with cedar, the largest one being called Ballard's island. Two rocky points, one on either side of the falls, are called the Two .Sentinels, as they are ever over- looking the "veil" and the "trail." Except in point of shape and volume of water, the falls will compare favorably with Niagara. The river below the falls is very deep. The right bank sinks into the water in a clear sharp precipice, but ou the left side a narrow pebbly beach extends along the foot of the cliff. From the top of the wall, at a point a quarter of a mile below the falls, a stream has gradually worn a little stairway down to the river; thick growths of evergreens have nestled together in this ravine. Under the influence of the cool shadow of the cliffs and the pines, and constant percolating of surface waters, a rare fertility is developed in the ravines opening upon the shore of the canon. A luxuriance of ferns and mosses, an almost tropical wealth of green leaves and velvety carpeting line the banks. Immense volumes of foam roll up from the cataract base, and whirl about in the eddying winds, rising often a thousand feet. When the wind blows down the canon, a gray mist obscures the river for half a mile; and when, as is usually the case in the after- noon, the breeze blows eastward, the foam cloud curls over the brink of the fall and hangs like a veil over the upper river. The incessant roar, reinforced by a thousand echoes, fills the canon. Niagara river falls 228 feet in 23 miles; Shoshone, 500 in five miles. In ravines, nooks and glens about the river and falls grow pines, cedars, shrubs, grass, mosses, vines and, in season, countless flow- ers, while hawks and bats make their home in the numberless caves and crevices in the canon walls. To make this tour and visit the various objects of interest, at least three days should be provided for. 192 GLENN'S FERRY — MOUNTAIN HOME. AGAIN WESTWARD. RETURNING to Shoshone — we start again for the west, fol- lowing down Little Wood river, passing the small side-track stations of Tcnupa [nine miles] and Toponis [six miles], where there are two stores, a few settlers, farmers, stock-raisers, and hay meadows, cross Wood river and reach BHk* — [13 miles]. — A small station, with one general merchan- dise store and a few farmers and stock-growers in the vicinity. Connections — Mail hack: Southeast, once a week to Salmon Falls, 22 miles; Paynes, eight miles, and Bliss, six miles— all situated on the south side of Snake river. The canon cliffs of Snake river now appear on the left and our train descends to the banks of that river, passing TlCESKA [seven miles], and King's Hir.,1, [eight miles], crossing Clover and Little Camas creeks at their junction with the Snake, and skirting the north bank and sloping bluffs of the Snake to a meal station [eight miles] Cileilll'S Ferrj" — [Pop.. 250; from Pocatello. 160 miles; elevation, 2,564 feet]. — This station was named for the old ferry located near. This ferrv is one of the most frequented on Snake river. The wagon roads from the north and from the south — Bruneau valley country — center at this ferry. It is in Alturas county, the termi- nus of two divisions of the railroad and a regular meal station for all through trains. Two stores, several shops and saloons comprise the town. The shipments are light — grain and wool principally. Our train in leaving starts with a tandem team — two engines — rolling along down the river to Medbury [« miles], where com- mences the "Medford grade," climbing and serpentining around the bluffs to REVERSE [nine miles], where one of the engines is left, having gained an altitude, in nine miles, of 590 feet. In climbing the "grade" several long curves are made around the points of bluffs, affording extensive views of the country to the south of the Snake as well as two and three parallel lines at a time of the rail-track below, over which our train has been running from Medbury to gain its present elevation. Mountain HoillC — [Pop.. 160: from Glenn's Ferry. 30 miles; eleva- tion, 5.145 feet j. — rs situated on a broad sage-brush plain, between Canon and Rattlesnake creeks, in the midst of 100, 000 acres of as good agricultural land as Idaho can afford. Some of these lands will raise crops without irrigation. Others must be watered. A number of wind-mills are to be seen in oper- ation in irrigating farms. Recently a company has commenced building canals and ditches with a view of bringing under cultiva- tion the greater portion of this immense tract, more than half of which is yet government land, subject to entry under the general land laws. The station consists of two general stores, several restaurants, shops and saloons, and two hotels — the Turner and Elsmore. There are a number of good brick buildings. The shipments for the year ending June 80th, 1888, amounted to 1,017 tons — of which 733 tons were wheat, and 177 tons wool. NAMPA — IDAHO. 193 Mountain Home, from its natural position in the midst of great agricultural and stock-raising advantages, has a future of much greater promise than any station yet reached on the main line of the railroad west of Pocatello. Connections— Mail coach: Northeast, daily to Pine, 45 miles; thence north to Rocky Bar, 20 miles; from thence, three times a week, mail hack to Atlanta, 18 miles. To the southward — Mail hack, three times a week to Bruneau Valley, 20 miles; thence northwest to Grand View, 26 miles; thence west to Castle Creek, 15 miles, and Oreana, eight miles. From Bruneau Valley, southward to Three Creeks, 80 miles, once a week. Leaving Mountain Home the direction is to the northwest across the broad table lands named above, upon which ' ' time cards ' ' name the following stations and distances between: ClEFFT [h miles], NAMEKO [eight miles], BlSUKA [seven miles], OWYHEE [seven miles], MORA [eight miles], on Indian creek, and KlIIlSl— [Four miles; elevation, 2,684 feet].— This station is a very small one situated at the western foot of the grade leading down from the great table lands, in which Mountain Home is a center. The grade commenced 12 miles east; the descent is 461 feet. Kuna, before the railroad, was the most important stage station 011 the stage road between Boise City to the northeast, and Silver City and Wiuuemucca on the Central Pacific railroad, in Nevada, 230 miles distant. Shipments for the year ending June 30, 1888, 411 tons, chiefly wool, 61 tons; lumber, 60; ore, 14, and wheat, 12 tons. \;1 — [Pop. ,300; from Pocatello, 245 miles; Boise City, 19 miles, Cald- well, seven miles; Huntington, Oregon, 88 miles; elevation, 2,487 feet]. — Is in Ada county, situated at the junction of the Idaho Central railroad with the Oregon Short Line, on a broad plain which gradually slopes away to the Snake river, 15 miles, southward. The town is regularly platted and the streets graded. It contains three general merchandise stores and an unusual n nuber of stores and shops in proportion to the size of the place. There are several hotels, chief of which is the Barnard, and one weekly newspaper, the Progress. The surrounding country is a broad sage brush plain with gentle rolling hills, and with water for irrigation would be as productive as any portion of the territory. The principal shipments are live stock, lumber, wool, hides and wheat. Connections — By rail to Boise City daily; by mail coach, south daily for Walters. 18 miles; Reynolds, 14 miles; Silver City, 15 miles; thence west to Jordan Valley 7 , 24 miles. From Jordan Valley south, once a week to Dairy, 20 miles. From Nampa southwest to Central, 15 miles, once a week. castle geyser. fire basin 194 GRAND ENTERPRISE — GRAND VIEW. »;eto»ir Three. — Taking one of the regular passenger steam- hoats of the O. R. & N. at Riparia, we start up the Snake river for Lewiston, Idaho; distance, 78 miles. The boats are fitted up equal to any light draft first-class craft on the eastern rivers. The staterooms are roomy and the meals and service all that could be desired. Boats leave Riparia 6:40 a. m. Wednesday and Saturday, and arrive at Lewiston at 4 p. in. Returning, leave Lewiston at 5 a. in. Monday and Friday, and arrive at Riparia at 2 p. m., connecting with trains for the east. Leaving Riparia the scenery is confined to the bluffs and canon walls of the river. The regular landings are not very numerous — the irregular ones depend upon signals from the shore — or whether there is any passenger on board who desires to laud. Besides the regular passenger boats there is a regular line of freight boats. Richard's Landing — For the village of Penwana, and Ai.mota, are the regular landings. LewistOll — [Pop.. 2,100].— Settled in 1860. Is the seat of Nez Perces county, situated at the junction of the Snake and Clear- water rivers, at the head of navigation. It contains five churches, good schools, three banks, two flour, a planing and a saw-mill, a sash, door and blind factory, one brewery, several hotels — Ray- mond, the principal one — and two weekly newspapers, the Teller and the Nezvs\ also a U. S. land office. The principal shipments are wheat, oats, barley, flax, lumber, flour and fruit. Lewiston was named after Lewis, the great American explorer, who visited that locality in 1805 011 his journey down the rivers to the ocean. Karly in the spring of 1806 the Lewis and Clarke expe- dition, after exploring the Snake and Columbia rivers and winter- ing on the ocean beach near the mouth of the Columbia, again ascended the river and camped on the spot where now stands the city of Lewiston After resting a few days at this point they ascended the south fork of the Clearwater to Camas prairie, where they remained for a time, preparing for their terrible trip over the mountains, then covered with several feet of snow. About the middle of June they renewed their journey, passing over into what is now Montana, to the headwaters of the Missouri river, and finally arrived at St. Louis toward the last of September, thus end- ing their wonderful journey over mountains, rivers and plains, through an unexplored region infested with Indians, a distance of over 9,000 miles. Nez PERCES County — Population about •">, OOO. Is about one- third mountainous and the balance about equally divided between grazing and agricultural land. The argicultural lands are very rich, producing grain and all kinds of farm produce equal to any laud in the west. For the year ending June 30, 1888, the grain product was: Wheat, 1,000,000 bushels; oats, 100,000 bushels; barley, 100,000 bushels; flaxseed, 55,000 bushels. 212 PAMPA AND WINONA BRANCHES. There are many orchards of fruit in the county. Apples, pears, peaches, plums and all kinds of berries do exceedingly well. The section of country known as the Big Potlatch is peculiarly adapted for fruit culture, the soil being very rich and warm. The Nez Perces county "Idaho pear," raised on the Potlatch, has become famous, taking the premium wherever exhibited at the state or county fairs. The lumber products and possibilities of the country are immense. GAME — Haired and feathered, is abundant; also, many varieties of fish in all the streams. Live-stock — In the county: Sheep, 10,800 head; cattle, 7,310 head; horses, 4,200. Connections — Mail coach: West, daily to Silcott, eight miles; Alpowa, eight miles; Poiaha, 12 miles, and Pomeroy, nine miles. Also from Lewiston, mail coach north, daily to Genesee, 15 miles; Blain, seven miles, and Moscow, six miles; also, from Lewiston, mail hack south- east, daily to Rustic, 45 miles; Cottonwood, six miles; Grangerville, 16 miles, and Mount Idaho, three miles. From Mount Idaho — Mail hack south, once a week to Fredom, 32 miles; John Day's, five miles; Shearer's Ferry, 30 miles, and Warren, 45 miles; also, from Mount Idaho, mail hack northeast once a week to Glenwood, eight miles, and Clearwater, four miles; from Clearwater southeast, special * service, to Elk City, 45 miles. From Lewiston — Mail hack east, ouce a week to Lola, 65 miles; thence north to Glenn, 15 miles. From Lola — Mail hack east, once a week to Weippe, 16 miles; thence north to Pierce City, 15 miles. Returning to Riparia and taking' our old seat, cross the Snake river and follow up Texas creek, which comes down through a narrow cation. Stock-raising is now the chief industry of the settlers, although there are a few wheat fields scattered along the way. Hay [13 miles] is down on the "time card" for a station; so also is MEEKER [six miles], but their peculiarities are neither settlers nor hay. Having reached the summit, our descent is rapid to La Crosse JUNCTION [five miles; from Riparia, 24 miles; Palouse Junction, 53 miles]. Here comes in the Pauipn Branch — from the west. This branch is 53 miles long, connecting at Palouse Junction or Connell with the North- ern Pacific railroad. The country traversed is devoted entirely to stock-raising, none of the half-dozen stations numbering more than a score of settlers. These stations are: PAMPA [three miles], HOOPER [four miles], WASHTUCKNA [nine miles], KAHLOUS [ten miles], Sulphur [12 miles], and Palouse Junction or Connell [nine miles]. This "junction" is situated on a broad sage-brush plain, fairly grassed, showing man}- evidences of having been visited at some date in the dim past by a great flood of volcanic matter, as indi- cated by lava outcroppiugs, lava knolls and the general basaltic deposits seen in many places. Passing SUTTON [three miles], on Union Flat creek, we descend to the valley of the Palouse river at WillOlia Junction — [From Sutton, eight miles; Colfax, 25 miles]. Here a branch line of railroad is building up the Palouse river through Pleasant valley, a great wheat country. Changing direction, our route is eastward up Spring creek, passing fenced fields and well cultivated farms, wheat and meadow lands. COLFAX AND MOSCOW, ElldicOtt — [Pop., 150; from Riparia, 41 miles; Colfax, 20 miles].— Set- tled in 1882. It has a church and school, half-dozen stores and shops, and ships live-stock, wheat, wool and farm produce. Diamonds — [Pop., ioo; from Endicott, ten miles].— Is a new station, in the midst of well cultivated lands, all fenced, and large farm houses surrounded by young fruit orchards. From Diamonds it is four miles to Mockonema, and two miles to CrksT, both stations only on paper. At Crest our road is on the side of a high bluff, from which we look away down to the left on the Palouse river, and also a fine race-track, in a pretty little- valley. This sporting resort is two and a half miles from CoIfclX — [Pop., 1,700; from Riparia, 60 miles; Moscow, 28 miles; Fanu- ington, 27 miles]. — Settled in 1873. Is the seat of Whitman county, and a flourishing and progressive town. It is situated astride the Palouse river, at the junction of the north and south branches. It contaius, besides the county buildings, the Colfax College, three churches, good district school, three banks, one flour-mill, one brewery, one planing mill, one sash, door and blind factory, one fanning mill manufactory, two weekly newspapers (the Gazette and Commoner) several hotels — the Thealson, Baldwin and Watson. Colfax has a good fire department and extensive telephone con- nections with the surrounding towns. Two miles east is located an extensive nursery. There are a number of large brick business blocks here, and several very heavy mercantile establishments, also stores and shops of all kinds. The live-stock and wheat interests are the most important in this vicinity; besides these, lumber, wool, flour, beer and general farm products are among the principal shipments. Connections — Rail: Moscow branch and main line "O. R. & N.:'' also, mail hack southeast, three times a week to Evartsville, ten miles; and Ontario, 12 miles; also, south, three times a week to Almota, 15 miles; Ilia, three miles- Mayview, five miles; Dixon, eight miles, and Pomeroy, eight miles; also, southwest, three times a week to Penawana, 19 miles; also, north- west, three times a week to Vulcan, 12 miles, and Coin, eight miles; also, north, special * service to Stepto, 14 miles. Detour Four — Over the Moscow Branch of O. R. &N. The route is southeast, up the south branch of the Palouse river, between high bluffs, dotted in places with pines and firs, and along the river with willows, rocks, farm houses, more wallows, wheat fields, more rocks, and so it goes. The first station, Riverside [eight miles], has long platforms and warehouses for handling wheat, as wheat seems to be about the only product offered for shipment. Shawnee [two miles], is another, and Guy [three miles] another wheat shipping point. The latter is situated in a lovely little val- ley, and has a population of about 250 in the near vicinity. The river valley, which has been narrow and rugged up to Guy, gradually widens, and the grade, which has been heavy, is much lighter. PllllUiail — [Pop., 350; from Colfax, 18 miles; Moscow, nine miles]. Is a new and thrifty town, situated near the crossing point of the Moscow branch of the O. R. & N. and the Spokane & Palouse branch of the Northern Pacific railroad. It contains a number of stores, grain elevator, two churches, a school, one bank and two hotels — the Palace and Empire. 214 IN LATAH COUNTY — IDAHO. Both railroad companies have good depot buildings, chutes for loading live-stock and storehouses for grain. MOSCOW— [Pop., 1,200; from Colfax, 27 miles]. — Is the seat of Latah county, Idaho, situated at the west end of the magnificent Para- dise valley, and is about two miles east of the boundary line between Idaho and Washington. The valley is surrounded by roll- ing prairie lands, the greater portion sown to wheat and dotted with farm houses in every direction. Heavy timber is within ten miles of town, where are located a number of saw-mills. Moscow contains a number of large brick business stores, hotels and private residences; it has ten churches and ample school accommodations (building cost $12,000), a large grain elevator, several long wheat warehouses, a court house that cost $20,000, a fine depot, one bank, one large flour-mill, one plauing-mill, one brewery, chutes for loading live-stock, several hotels — chief of which are the Del Norte and Johnson — and two weekly newspapers, the Mirror and the Star of Idaho; also a number of large lum- ber yards. The principal shipments are wheat, lumber, live-stock, oats and general farm products. Connections— Mail coach: South, daily to Blain, eight miles; Genesee, seven miles, and Lewiston. 15 miles. [See "Lewiston;"] also mail coach north, daily to Viola, eight miles; Paloi se, six miles; Jamestown, eight miles, and Farmington, seven miles. [See "Farmington" for connections. J From Moscow — Mail hack southwest, once a week to Glenton, seven miles; Also, mail hack southeast, twice a week to Cornwall, seven miles; Brickaville, seven miles, and Juliette. 11 miles; thence northeast to L,kla.\d, nine miles, and Cameron, three miles. Latah County — Has all the essentials to make a rich and prosperous county. It contains a large proportion of as rich agri- cultural land as can be found in the west. Its present population is about 10,000, with room enough for ten times that number. The government still holds the title to fully one-half the lands in the county that can be taken up under the general land laws. Timber is abundant in the eastern part, and also some valuable mines of gold, silver and mica. The assessed valuation of the county is a little short of $2,000,- 000. Its productions for 1888 were: Wheat, 820,000 bushels; oats, 200,000 bushels; barley, 00,000; flaxseed, 140,000 bushels; corn, 500 bushels. The county contains cattle, 14,130 head; horses, 6,358 head; very few sheep; hogs 2,577. Improved lands are held at from $0 to $50 per acre. Returning to Colfax and resuming our seat in the cars on the main line, start again on our journey. The train backs down half a mile and then turns up the north branch of the Palouse river. Pine, fir and cottouwood trees border the river and the bluffs stand close in places on both sides. ElOCrtOli— LPop., 125; from Colfax, 13 miles]. — Is the first station, situated in a little park. It has several stores, a large wheat ware- house, saw and planing-mill, flouring-mill, and ships accordingly. Graduallv climbing up out from the river bottom we enter a rolling prairie country, where wheat is the great staple. Garfield — [Pop., 550; from Colfax, 18 miles; Farmington, nine miles]. Settled in 1883; situated on Silver creek, in a beautiful valley in the midst of great agricultural wealth. It contains a number of stores, three churches, a good school, one hotel — the Garfield — and one weekly paper, the Enterprise; also large grain warehouses. FARMINGTON — SPOKANE. 215 Besides the main line of the "O. R. & N." Garfield is connected by the Spokane & Palouse railroad to the north and south; Spokane Falls, ;>!> miles; Palouse city, nine miles. FarillillJftOll — [Pop., Soo; from Garfield, nine miles; Portland, 389 miles; Spokane Falls, 50 miles; elevation, 2,350 feet]. — Settled 111 1871; situated on Pine creek, Whitman count}-. Has three churches, good district school, one large flonring-mill, a brewery, a large plan- ing and shingle-mill, several hotels — the Whitman, the principal one; several large lumber yards, and one weekly newspaper — the Register. Farmingtou has a number of good brick and stone buildings and a full supply of stores and shops of all kinds. The valley in which the town is situated is very productive, and the same can be said of all the surrounding country. Wheat, oats, barley, hay, potatoes and all kinds of vegetables make good yields. The shipments of wheat for 1888 exceeded 1 4,< >< M I tons. Lumber and live-stock are important items of shipments. To the eastward, three miles away, are the Bitter Root moun- tains, at the base of which are located a number of saw-mills In November, 1888, Farmingtou was the "end of the track" for passenger and freight business, but the rails were laid ten miles further, and grading done for the balance of the way to Spokane Falls, where the trains over the O. R. & N. will probably arrive early in 1889. Another branch line is building east, for the Cceur D'Alene mining region, which will probably be pushed for- ward to completion during the next year. From Farmingtou looking directly west can be seen "Stepto Butte," made notorious in the days of Indian troubles. "Cash- up" Davis, who lives at the base of the "Butte," has erected an observatory on its summit called "Cash-up's Pride." The Cceur D'Alene Indian reservation is situated to the north- east 12 miles. Connections — Mail coach: North, daily to Lone Pine, six miles; Eatah, five miles: Carlew, ten miles; Rockford; five miles; Mica, nine miles, and Spokane Falls, 15 miles. Total, 50 miles. Also mail hack east once a week to Santa, 25 miles. Spokane Falls— [Pop., 13,500; from Portland, 438 miles].— Settled ill 1872; incorporated in 1881; the seat of Spokane count}-. Spokane is situated at the great falls of the Spokane river on a broad "bench" of land with mountains in view on the north, east and southeast. The city is laid out to great advantage. The streets are wide and admit of practically unlimited extension both east and west without change of grade. It must not be imagined, how- ever, that the country in the vicinity of Spokane is characterized by the monotony of prairie land. The city extends along both sides of the river, which at this point, runs directly east and west. The greater part of the city now lies on the south side of the river. A few miles west of Spokane the country is hilly and covered by a scattered growth of pine trees. Directly south of the city is a very considerable elevation from which can be secured a view of the entire valley and the country to the north and east. Looking north, the range of mountains in the Colville country meet the eye. To the east and southeast can be seen the Cabinet, Bitter Root and Cceur D'Alene mountains. The view is one of great beautv- 216 spokane; falls and vicinity. The water at the falls of Spokane river divides into three chan- nels and falls 156 feet by a series of drops, within the city limits, affording over 114,000 horse-power in low water and double that amount in high water, making one of the finest water-powers in America. Immense saw-mills and planing-mills are located on the south side of the falls; also four of the largest flouring-mills in the west — two of which produce 375 barrels a day. Spokane is built largely of brick and stone. Some of the largest and most expensive buildings on the Pacific coast are to be seen in this city. The city has nine public buildings (including court house, Masonic and other halls, opera house), four banks, one savings and loan, 18 churches, two select schools, one high school and a number of public schools. The higher educational institutions are Spokane college, Gonzaga college, in charge of Jesuit Fathers and Sisters Holy Cross. There are two large pot- teries, one iron works, three breweries, a business college, Hos- pital Sacred Heart, 12 secret order lodges, and man}- Christian and benevolent societies. There are eight newspapers, two of which are daily and weekly — the Chronicle and the Review — and a score of hotels, chief of which are the Grand, Windsor and Pacific. The parks are Ross and Cceur D'Alene; the latter comprises eight acres. The government has a land office and a signal sendee office located here. Spokane is provided with a fine system of water works and a good fire department. Gas, electric light, telephone, street cars, cable and motor roads are among the conveniences of the city. The Board of Trade of Spokane Falls is a very energetic body of men. They are all active, experienced business men who have the good of Spokane at heart. They have elegantly fitted apart- ments in which to transact business, furnished with Brussels car- pets, and old colonial style of antique oak furniture. Theirs are the finest furnished board of trade rooms on the coast. Connections — Rail: East and southwest, via Northern Pacific railroad; west, via Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern railway; south, via Spokane & Palouse rail- road; southeast, via Spokane & Idaho railroad, and Cceur D'Alene Railway & Navigation Co. All run daily trains. By mail coach south, daily to Mica, i.s miles; Rockford: nine miles, Latah, 15 miles, and Farmington, 18 miles. [See under "Farmington."] By mail coach, west, daily to Deep Falls, 15 miles; Capps, nine miles; Mondora, seven miles; Davenport; nine miles; thence north to. Larenh, six miles; Egypt, eight miles, and Miles, eight miles. By mail hack, north, three times a week, to Welch, 18 miles, and Colville, 67 miles. XfeiTAt many points of the above-named main lines connections are made with lines that run one or more times a week to a great many small places. jjjjg^Don't you forget that Crofutt's Overland Tours Xo. 2 describes the routes represented by red lines on the map in this book — of which it is a twin brother. A Caiiforuia "49-er" is all wool, yard wide, and 22 karats fine. He was "horn again" when he landed in California — full grown — with his boots on, and a double and single set of teeth all around. J8GJ=- You never saw such ignorant roses in all your life, as on the Pacifie coast. They bud and blossom the year around, and never stop to undress or take a wink of sleep. T11 the Chinook language: Hy-iu means much, many plenty, enough. Hy- iu till-icum, a crowd; many people; Hy-iu muckamuck, plenty to eat; tenas hy-iu, some few-; wake hy-iu, not many or not much. Muck-a-muck, to eat, to bite food; muck-a-muck chuck, to drink water; skookum chuck, a rapid. UMATILLA — COLUMBIA RIVER. 21' PE\»LETOX-WEST. Returning to Pendleton, we start once more for the west, via the main through line. Leaving Pendleton, direction west, we follow down the Uma- tilla river through an agricultural region with little specially to note, passing Barnhart [eight miles], Yoakum [eight miles], Noland [three miles], 1 and arrive at Echo — [Pop., 350; seven miles]. — Settled in 1881; situated on the Umatilla river, where is located a large flouring-mill, turning out 100 barrels of flour a day; several general stores, three churches, good district school, and the Arlington hotel comprise the town. Shipments — flour, wheat, lumber and farm products, also some live-stock. Connections — Mail hack: Southwest twice a week to Atwood, 13 miles; thence west to Alpine, six miles; thence southeast to Calloway, seven miles; thence southward to Acton, four miles, and Heppnkr, 17 miles. [See connec- tions uuder "Arlington" and "Pendleton".] Leaving Echo and passing the little station of Foster's [four miles] and MAXWELL [nine miles], we reach the sand dunes of the Columbia, and six miles from Maxwell are on the south bank of the Columbia river at Ulllifttillil — LPop., 1S0; from Pendleton. 44 miles; Wallula, 27 miles; Portland, 1S7 miles]. — Situated on the south bank of the Columbia river; is the "junction" station for the O. R. & N. railroad line along the Columbia, north and south, as well as their line east that we came over from Huntington. The place contains a general merchandise store, a flouring-mill, and a hotel — the Umatilla. Yes, and not forgetting '"Uncle Jack's" hotel and restaurant — an old-time settler in the western country from away-back in the "fifties," and like that other old pioneer, Judge Kelly, of the Statesman at Boise, is loaded with rich reminiscences of ye olden times. Umatilla, before the railroad, commencing in 1862, was a busy place, there being a good ferry crossing here. "Pilgrims" for cen- tral Washington and the Puget Sound country made this place a resting and outfitting point on their journey. Then, too, it was the upper landing point for river steamboats for all passengers and goods destined for the Boise and rich mineral districts to the east- ward. At that time 3,000 people congregated here, with immense wagon and pack-trains coming and going continually. The shore-landing was packed with goods awaiting transporta- tion. Stages left regularly, loaded with passengers, and all was life, bustle and activity; streets and avenues were as well defined and named as in any city of to-day, and street sprinklers were in daily use. It had a regular city government; the streets from east to west were named A, B, C, etc., those paralleling the river from north to south by numerals — 1, 2, 3, 4, etc. The railroad track and depot is now on old Fourth street. Mid all the wonderful changes in this place for a third of a century, "Uncle Jack" alone remains hale and hearty, but suffer- ing, at times, by an almost death wound, received one night in the "sixties" from a "bear-gun," set on a mountain trail over which he was "packing." UPPER PALISADES — GRANDO ! Now, when teams arrive to cross the ferry, Indians act as ferry- men, packing wagons and goods across in their canoes and swim- ming the animals. The Advertiser was a tri-weekly paper, published at Umatilla, in "the good old da)^," when the paper recorded the freight rates to Boise at ten cents per pound; to Owyhee, 16 cents, and to Idaho City, 15 cents. Flour the paper quotes at $12 per 100 pounds; bacon, 38 cents; sugar, 24 cents, and everything in proportion. IROn IMATILLA-IP THE COLUMBIA. Side Tour \o. 16— From Umatilla up the Columbia river, through the upper palisades to wallula and walla Walla, connecting at the latter with Side Tour No. 15. Leaving Umatilla junction the direction is to the northeast, up the eastern bank of the famous Columbia river. At Umatilla, our starting point, the river bed between banks is about three miles in width, with gradual grassy slopes on each side extending back for several miles. As our train proceeds these slopes become narrower at every revolution of the wheels; little hills begin to appear, then rocky spurs shoot out from taller bluffs and crowd our way. Grassy slopes are seen no more. The river bed, too, is crowded into half its width at our starting, and the water tumbles down over a series of rocky rapids, most beautiful to behold. Our train has gained in elevation much faster than the river, and the bluffs within a few miles have grown to sheer walls of rock, 500 feet above our heads. At the same time, our train is running on a narrow shelf of these same walls, 150 feet above the river. The changes are rapid! The views, grand! The surprises, marv- elous! At one turn in the road the towering walls seem to open, letting in a flood of light. And our iron steed, seemingly desirous to get away into the open country, turned directly for the opening leaving the river to its back; but the run was a short one; the bright prospects proved deceptive, the opening a delusion; the walls presented a solid front and our engine was sufficiently alive to the situation to whirl away to the left just in time to save a col- lision, running beneath the overhanging cliffs directly for the river, but far above it. It is a wild ride. In Utah they would call it the "Devil's ride." On thunders our train, and just when it seems that we must be dashed into the Columbia, our engine whirls to the right on the very nose of the canon spur — and there, behold! — the grand! the beautiful! the up- per Palisades of the Columbia. The Palisades are in the shape of a monster semi-circle, a magnificent amphitheater ten miles in diameter and over 2,000 feet in height. The base of these j>iant walls are washed by the now broad and placid Columbia, leaving barely room between for our passing train. These walls are black basaltic cliffs, standing forth in number- less wild fantastic shapes. In places, volcanic cones and dikes, and castellated forms appear, beside which are crevices, deep chasms, and ghost-like caves, relieved by nary shrub or vine, or flowering plant. Standing alone, the grandeur of these cliff walls is found in their magnificent desolation, but taken in connection DOWN THE COLUMBIA. 219 with the majestic Columbia, the light and shade, the little emerald border setting of the river, the scene is one of peculiar beauty — one long to be remembered with pleasure, if not profit. In sweeping around to the northern end of this huge semi- circle, the train turns abruptly to the right, and both Palisade and river are suddenly lost to view. Almost simultaneously the engine gives forth a long, terrific blast and crosses the Walla Walla river and stops at »VilIllllSi — [Pop., 300; from Umatilla, 27 miles; Portland, 214 miles; Walla Walla. 31 miles]. — Situated on Walla Walla river near its junction with ihe Columbia and at the junction of the 0. R. & N. and the Northern Pacific railroads. Also the junction of the Walla Walla branch of the O. R. & N. and the Oregon & Washington Territory railroad. It's pretty much all "junction," being at thej unction of sand dunes and sand ridges. The O. R. & N. Co. have at this place the largest, finest and most complete hotel and dining station build- ing of their entire system, and it's well kept. The building, beside about 50 guest rooms, has a large dining-hall and lunch room, and contains the waiting rooms for passengers and the railroad ticket, telegraph, express and baggage offices of the company. The station consists of three general merchandise stores, sev- eral restaurants and saloons, and about 200 railroad employes. The connections are all by rail, by the lines above named. Taking the Walla Walla branch from Wallula, the route is di- rectly east, up the Walla Walla river; the first station is TrOHOliet— [Pop., 60; from Wallula, 15 miles; Walla Walla, 16 miles]. Is situated on the north bank of the Walla Walla river at the junc- tion of the Trouchet river. One general store and farmers' surround- ings comprise the place. Continuing eastward, farmers and stock-growers possess the country, and there is little to interest the traveler until the city of Walla Walla is reached, where this tour terminates, connecting with Tour No. 15. Returning to Umatilla we resume our main tour west. FROU UMATILLA TO PORTL.WD. Ueaving Umatilla we soon cross the Umatilla river and run along down the south bank of the Columbia. The way is through ridges of sand, which drift like snow, in proportion to the velocity of the wind. Stock-raising is now the chief industry, particularly on the Washington side of the river; the north side is Washington and the south side Oregon. Passing STOKES [seven miles] and CayoTE [nine miles], our train stops for a moment at CASTLE ROCR [nine miles], where one store, chutes for loading cattle, and about 60 settlers comprise the station. The staple productions are sand, sage, cattle and Indians. The grass-covered rolling prairies which have been with us on the north side of the river from Umatilla are now giving place to bluffs and rocky buttes; at the same time our roadway is gradually being crowded closer and closer to the river bank. 111 Willow* Junction— [ten miles] — Is reached just after cross- * Willow creek. Here the O. R. & N. Co. are building a ARLINGTON — BLALOCK'S. branch southward to Heppuer, which is completed 4-"> miles, and will probably be extended to Canyon City and Ontario at no distant day. The cliffs crowd our way, leaving just room enough between, their rugged sides and the river for our passing train. Passing the junction, WILLOWS [two miles] is reached, a side- track .station with a fine depot, where is accumulating a large amount of construction materials for extending the Willows branch. This station, owing to the limited yard room at the "junction," will probably be the starting point for all trains on the "branch" when it is completed and trains running. Arlington — [Pop., 850; from Willows, nine miles; Umatilla, 45 miles; Portland, 142 miles]. — Is the seat of Gilliam county, and a regular meal station for some trains. Very little of the town is visible from the depot, as it is built astride a crooked ravine, half a mile in length, that comes down from the bluffs to the southward just at the depot. The town has quite a number of good brick business blocks and many large mercantile houses, beside stores of many kinds, two banks, several hotels, one weekly newspaper — the Times — three churches, and a good district school. The county is fast settling up with thrifty farmers, wheat and live-stock being the chief productions. The shipments are live- stock, wheat, wool and farm products. Stock-raising is now the chief occupation of the settlers on both sides of the Columbia river. A steam ferry-boat conveys passengers and teams across the river from opposite the depot. Connections — Mail coach: Southeast daily to Ione, 30 miles; Pettysville, four miles; Lexington, six miles, and Heppner, nine miles. [See connections under "Pendleton."] Also, mail coach south, daily to Baird, seven miles; Olex, eight miles; Glem. ten miles; Condon, eight miles: Maryyille, 13 miles, and Fossil, eight miles. From Olex — Mail hack southeast, twice a week to Fletts, nine miles: Gooseberry, ii miles; thence south to Idea, five miles, and Lone Rock, ii miles. From Condon — Mail hack southeast, three times a week to Matney, six miles, and Lost Valley, 14 miles. From Fossil — Mail hack eastward, twice a week to Wagxek, 35 miles, and Monument, 22 miles. [See under "Baker City."] Prom Fossil — Mail hack south, twice a week to Contention, 20 miles; thence southeast to Waldron, 15 miles; thence southwest to Mitchell, 15 miles; Crescent, 20 miles; thence west to Howard, 19 miles, and Prineville, 19 miles. [See under "The Dalles.]" BlaloekN— [From Arlington, eight miles].— Is a small station for passing trains and shipping cattle and wheat, about the only productions in this region. Connections — Mail hack: South, twice a week to Rockville. 12 miles. For many miles of our way down the river the bluffs have been gradually increasing their elevation until walls of rock appear, crowding close to the river, rising from 800 to 1,000 feet above the railroad, which finds a rough and tortuous way between riverandcliff. From the summit of these cliff-walls a broad table land extends far away to the southward, much of which is occupied by settlers, whose principal productions are live-stock and wheat. How to reach these lands from the railroad, by teams, is often a problem difficult to solve without great expense in constructing wagon roads up the rough and steep ravines, or along the face of the cliffs, for landing wheat and other grain at the foot of the cliff- SHOOTING WHEAT. 221 wall convenient to a shipping point on the railroad or river, a plan of fluming is in use, but operated differently in different places. Feuming Wheat — About half a mile below Blalock's is a flume, made of lumber about six inches square, that extends from a side- track and platform for shipping grain to the top of the cliff, about 1,200 feet in length, supported by props and cables. At the upper end of the flume, and in connection with it, is a large bin con- structed in such a position that farmers can back up their teams and dump their entire load into it, the grain rushing down the flume with great velocity to another large bin, where the grain is put up in sacks for shipment. In some other places along down the river, the grain is put into sack- before shooting it down the flume, but in those cases the flumes are verv much shorter as well as much larger. .Several miles below Blalock's the basaltic cliff-walls commence to present a more pronounced series of terraced, dike formations on both sides of the river. These terraces slope back in tiers of from four to six rows, much like some of the pre-historic battle mounds seen in Arizona and Mexico. These steps rise sheer one above the other, from ten to 50 feet each, extending with great uniformity for many miles, laid up seemingly with all the precision of a master-workman. PEUTo's Caldron — Is a wild collection of volcanic cones, buttes, needle-pointed rocks, mounds, lava beds and an endless va- riety of curious black rock formations of every conceivable shape and form. Our engine seems to thread its way cautiously through this witches' caldron. Yet, there is no longer any "bubble, bubble, toil and trouble." Near the "caldron" is Souaeey Hook, and a magnificent suc- cession of rapids in the river, which is here crowded close between the cliff-walls on either side, where it goes tumbling down in one tumultuous sheet of sparkling foam, most beautiful to behold. Rolling over a high trestle bridge and John Day's river at the same time, soon passing the side-track of John Day's, and then the little station of RuFUS, formerly Wallace, but not down on the "time cards," where there is one store, a platform for shipping grain, several young orchards of fruit trees and many huge sand drifts, arrive at (lil'ailt* — [Pop.. 80; from Blalock's, 22 miles; The Dalles, 23 miles]. Formerly known as Villard. It contains several stores and hotels and does a large shipping business in grain, live-stock, wool and general farm products from the country to the southward. The basaltic cliffs near the station rise sheer 1,000 feet above the railroad. Here is another chute for landing grain from the top of the mountain wall to a sacking bin at its base. Connections— Mail coach: West, daily across the river to Columbus, four miles; thence northwest to Centerville, eight miles; thence northeast to Goldendale, seven miles. Also, from Grants, mail hack south, three times a week to Wasco, ten miles; Monkland, 12 miles; De Moss Springs, four miles; Mora, three miles; Erskinville, three miles; Grass Valley, six miles, and Rutledge, seven miles. From Rutledge — Mail hack south, twice a week to Kent, 14 miles. From Grants — Mail hack southeast, twice a week to Emigrant, 12 miles; also, from Grants special * service southeast to Grover, 22 miles. 222 MT. HOOD — NATIVES. Biggsi— [Pop., 75; from Grants, three miles].— Is a little side-track station, with one general store, and sand drifts varying to 30 feet in height, shifting with the wind like snow drifts in New England. The principal shipments are wheat and sand, "'alf and 'alf." And, by the way, the wheat from Biggs weighs something less than 200 pounds to the bushel. On the north side of the Columbia opposite Biggs can be seen the graded track of the Northern Pacific railroad, made many years ago in order to hold a land grant from the government — 20 miles in width. The government withdrew the land from market, the road was not built, yet it is kindly held in reserve for the railroad company during the latter's convenience. Generous "Uncle Sam!" Leaving Biggs the scenic views of river, Miller's Island, Hell Gate and beyond is very grand and beautiful. Passing De ChuTES, [four miles] a side-track and station building, one mile brings our train on the bridge over the De Chutes river. g®°Remember to look to the left and view the beautiful rapids close above the bridge; they are fine. ColllO— [four miles]— is the next statiou, a mere side-track now, but once upon a time it was a noted place, with a population of 1,0(10 or more. At that time there were only 18 miles of railroad along the entire river — six miles around the cascades and 12 miles from The Dalles to Colilo. There was then, as now, a line of steam- boats from Portland to the cascades, where a rail transfer was made to boats above, which ran up the river to The Dalles, where another transfer was made from The Dalles by rail, 12 miles, to Colilo, where another line of boats ran eastward to Umatilla. The line from The Dalles eastward to this station and above has been discontinued, but the lower line is still in operation, affording passengers a choice of routes to and from Portland and The Dalles, without additional fare. The rapids and falls of The Dalles are now on our right, and will continue to the city of The Dalles. Indians are numerous at all times in the vicinity of The Dalles, particularly in the fishing season. They catch and dry great quan- tities of salmon, selling what they can and packing the balance away for winter use. The fish roe is a great luxury with the Indians, who separate the eggs and dry them in the sun until they become very hard, resembling fine bird shot. Most of the Indians in this vicinity belong to the John Day's and Colilo tribes. One Indian and squaw T who live in a little "teepe" just above the middle falls are said to be 12") and 121 years of age, respectively. Had we guessed their age from their mummy- fied appearance, we should have placed their birth co-equal with "the first man and the first woman," and it may be when Adam and Eve were turned out of Eden they came over to The Dalles. £ix miles above the city of The Dalles, just below Summit sta- tion, a fine view can be had of Mt. Hood, directly west, 40 miles away. It is the standpoint from which Bierstadt painted his pic- ture of Mt. Hood, for which Mr. Vanderbilt paid him $20,000. Less than 60 vears ago fashion pronounced the little ravines of James river ami the Connecticut, the proud spots of America, and held the great unin- habited wastes of the Mississippi, and its unnavigated streams as worthy only to balance codfish. A ton of pure gold is valued at 5602.799.20. 1S20— the; daises— 1889. 223 XllC Dalles — [Pop., 4,300; from Umatilla, 99 miles; Portland, 88 miles]. Settled in 1820 by the Northwestern Fur Co. ; in 1836, by the Methodist missionaries; in 1846, by the Catholic padres, and in 1847 by a more permanent class of settlers from "the states." In 1850 the government established a military post here garrisoned by the "boys in blue." The first steamboat — the Flint — arrived at The Dalles in 1851, previous to which the entire business of river transportation was done by flat-boats and canoes, the latter similar to those now in use by the Puyallup Indians on Puget Sound. The discovery of gold in the Colville region in 1855 brought an immense trade via The Dalles; again, in 1858-9 the Fraser river river excitement, and again in 1861, when the discoveries were made in Idaho, eastern Oregon and Montana, the rush of gold hunters and their followers numbered thousands multiplied by scores. At that time The Dalles was a "booming" city, and many fortunes were made by those in mercantile and trauspo'rtation business. Most towns are fortunate in having one "boom." The Dalles had three prior to the arrival of the greatest, which com- menced with the building of the O. R. & N. railroad, in 1880, up the Columbia river eastward. For nearly three years The Dalles was the depot of supplies for this work, in which thousands of men were engaged and millions of dollars expended. During all these years of prosperity the rich agricultural and grazing lands lying to the southward, in what is now Wasco count}', were being taken up and settled upon by ati enterprising and thrifty class of people. The ready market afforded at The Dalles for all the productions of the settlers — from both farm and range — stimulated them to re- newed efforts, until at the present time the shipments of wheat, live-stock, wool, hides and general farm products are larger than any county in the state of like area. The fisheries and salmon canning companies afford shipments annually aggregating many thousand tons. The city of The Dalles is situated on the south side of the Columbia river three miles below the principal Dalles rapids, at a point where the river makes a great bend to the south, west and northward, describing a half circle six miles in diameter. On the outer rim of this monster crescent, when the points are directly north, sloping back from the river about three miles to basaltic cliffs which rise to an altitude of 1,000 feet above it, is the city of The Dalles. It is a lovely site for a city, and we might add it is a lovely city. As an educational city it is provided with two first-class academies — the St. Mary's and the Wasco Independent — six churches and ample district and graded schools. It has an excellent system of water works and an efficient fire department, three banks, one brewery, one flour and feed-mill, one planing-mill, two large pack- ing houses, just half a dozen hotels, chief of which are the Uma- tilla and Cosmopolitan, and two weekly newspapers — the Sun and the Times-Mountaineer. Extensive machine shops belonging to the O. R. & N. are located here, also a U. S. laud office. Here are a number of large brick and stone business blocks, a $25,000 court house, many elegant brick private residences, and stores, shops and small manufactories of different kinds. WaXER-power — The Dalles, with the largest water-power on the Pacific coast, does not utilize it to roll a wheel! Why? The Dalles has a Board of Trade. Who knows it outside of Wasco county? 224 THE DALLES AND VICINITY. Here should be located the largest manufactories in the west! Here should be located the Lowell of the Pacific! We would suggest to that Board of Trade that they induce a Spokane Falls man to settle in their city and wake them up. Fruit — of all kinds is grown in this vicinity. Orchards are everywhere about the city, and the gardens and grounds of the citi- zens are embowered in fruit trees aswellas flowersandcreepiugviues. Climate — For climate, the great capital stock of some places that we could name, here reaches a happy medium between the wet and dry — western and eastern Oregon. The extremes of all kinds meet at The Dalles, and seem to compromise. The air is pure and mild, while invigorating and healthy. vSeENERY — Well, stop at the Umatilla house a week, wander about ten hours each day, and at the end of that time you will only just begin to realize the scenic beauties surrounding the beautiful city of The Dalles; then you will wish you had decided to stop over a mouth. We cannot describe this region adequately, life is too short; come and see for vourself. Connections — Daily line of steamers to Portland; ferry-boat across the river to the Washington side. Also, mail coach south, daily to Boyd, ii miles; Nausene, six miles; Shkrar Bridge, 13 miles; Bake Oven, 20 miles: Cross Keys, 25 miles; Hay Creek, ten miles; Cleek, ten miles; and Prineyille, 18 miles. [See under "Ontario."] From Bake Oven — Mail hack southeast, three times a week to Antelope, nine miles; Cherry Creek, 25 miles; Burnt Ranch, seven miles; and Mitch- ell, 17 miles. From Antelope — Mail hack east, three times a week to Crown Rock, 12 miles; Francisyille, 12 miles; thence north to Fossil, nine miles. From Prineville — Mail hack east, twice a week to Howard, 19 milts; Cres- cent, 19 miles; thence north to Mitchell, 20 miles. Also from Prineville — Mail hack southeast, once a week to Mowkv, 45 miles; Pai-lina, 12 miles; thence south to Hardin, 13 miles; Riley, 12 miles: thence east to Burns. 30 miles. Also from Prineville — Mail hack once a week to CROOK, 30 miles; Price, 15 miles, and Hardin, 25 miles. Also from Prineville — Mail hack west, once a week to Sisters. 42 miles. Also from Prineville — Mail hack southwest, once a week to Bend, 35 miles; Crater, 18 miles; and Pengra, ten miles. From The Dalles — Mail hack south, three times a week to Dufur. 15 miles; Kixgsley, 15 miles: Tvi.n Valley, six miles; Warnic, six miles, and Wapini- tia, 11 miles. Also from The Dalles — Mail hack south, twice a week to Sinnemasho, 12 miles; and to Warm Springs, 18 miles. Also from The Dalles — Mail hack north, three times a week to Hartland, 12 miles: thence west to Lylk, 14 miles. Leaving The Dalles, well, we do not believe there arc another 50 miles of such varied, grand and magnificent scenery in the world that can compare with it. Our train rolls around the circle and starts once more to the westward, passing rugged black basaltic ridges, cliffs, buttes, knolls and chasms; dodging through deep cuts, occasional tunnels, and over high trestle bridges; then, in view of huge dikes and terraces of rocks, lovely little parks, lakes, farms, orchards, islands, meadows, groves and crystal brooks. Anon, little cascades, and cascades tumbling down 1,000 feet; on the brink of the river at one moment, and another in a dark and gloomy gorge; at one time on a high embankment — the base washed by the river — and then beneath overhanging walls 1,500 feet in height; another whirl, and before one could count their beads, a dense thicket of oaks, pines, firs Cottonwood and vines appear, garnished with ferns and countless flowers. Arid over all, an everlasting sentinel, stands Mt. Hood, bareheaded, except with the frosted hair of countless ages. "The Tacoma"— at Tacoina— is the largest and finest hotel on the North Pacific Coast; but it costs more in " tips " to get service than the office charges. SAM LOWENSTEIN, President. WM. KAPUS, Secretary. OREGON Furniture Manufacturing Co. OFFICE AND SALESROOM: No. 208 & 210 RlRST STREET, Factory, No. 207 & 209 Front St. Shipping Dep't, No. 7 & 9 Salmon St. Portland, Oregon. Manufacturers of and Dealers in all kinds of FURNITURE Diplomas and. First=class iN.4ed.als were awarded to this Company at OREGON STATE FAIR, 1876. CENTENNIAL EXPOSITION, 1876. PARIS EXPOSITION, 1878. PORTLAND MECHANICS' FAIR, 1881, NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1885. PHOTOGRAPHS AND PRICE LISTS Furniahei 1 on application. ^X.11 orders 1 >v letters promptly attended t' >. COLUMBIA RIYER BY MOONLIGHT. First Yie-w by trie Jesuit Fathers- KNIGHT, FRYE & MILLS, REAL ESTATE BROKERS. City and Suburban Property For Sale. Loans Negotiated. Property Rented and Rents collected. Insurance and Notary Public. Special attention given to collecting Pills, Notes, etc. Searching of Titles and Abstracts given. Write to us. 1403 PACIFIC AVENUE, ROOM 1, SECOND FLOOR. TACOMA, W.T. We also are handling several additions to the City of Tacoma, among them Mills' Highland Park Addition. We invest money for non-residents and guarantee safety. We refer any one wishing reference to any bank in the City or the Citv Mavor. CHAS. H. AITKENJr, NOTARY PUBLIC, REAL ESTATE AND HOUSE BROKER, INSURANCE AND GENERAL COLLECTION AGENT, 1309 Pacific Avenue, -• - TACOMA, Washington Ter. Houses and Lots for sale and to let. Loans Negotiated. Particu- lar attention paid to collection of Rents. Full charge taken of Property for absentees. Insurance, Re- pairs, Taxes and Street Assessments attended to. Bad tenants ejected. PERSONS coming to Puget Sound with a view of making a home or investing in Real Estate should, before deciding upon a location, visit different points, study the geographical position of the several Cities and Towns, note the character of the population and examine the relative business and commercial prospects of each, and then determine. ROSS & N ALBERT will take pleasure in showing the "City of Destiny" to any who may desire to avail themselves of the opportunity. 1001 A ST., MASON BLOCK, TACOMA, WASHINGTON TER. SEATTLE. No blizzards, heavy snows or cyclones. Average winter temperature 43 degrees above zero. Seattle, largest city in Washington Territory. Popula- tion 25,000. Commercial, Educational and Financial center 1 >f Puget Sound country. Full information of Queen CITY, SE-AT-TLE, CHAS. H. KITTTXOFR, Secretary Seattle Board of Trade, Seattle, Wash. Ter. We shall not attempt to describe the varied scenery along this route in detail; no attempt of man could do it justice, and we opine the recording angel would down his pen and bless his eyes in huge disgust, when he disc overed the half had not been told. The stations down on the "time cards" often fail to materialize. ROWENA [nine miles] and MoSiER [seven miles] are both side-tracks for passing trains. 22tj hood— cascadp: locks. Hood river is crossed half a mile before reaching the station of Hood River — [Pop., 200; from The Dalles, 23 miles; Portland, 65 miles]. Situated near the junction of Hood river with the Columbia. The town is in a grove of trees, on an elevation overlooking the river and station. It consists of four churches, a good district school, one general store, saw-mills, several summer boarding- houses, and the Mt. Hood hotel. It is the stopping place and out- fitting point for visitors to Mt. Hood [elevation, 11,225 feet], ln sum- mer, stages run regularly for Mt. Hood resort — 2") miles; fare for round trip, $5. The scenic views at Hood river and vicinity are indescribably grand and beautiful. Passing VlENTO [eight miles] and YY'vhth [six miles], seven miles brings our train to the noted CaSOSUlO LiO<'Ks — [Pop., 250; from Hood River, 20 miles; Portland, 45 miles]. -Besides the government business going on here, the place consists of five general stores, several saloons, but no hotel. One good hotel is badly needed. Here we found another of the old-time settlers of Oregon — Dr. Leavens. He has been in this country since 1833, and is a living encyclopedia of matters pertain- ing to this western country. With suitable hotel accommodations for tourists and cottages for families, we believe there is no place in the wide world that could afford more natural attractions than this. In grand moun- tain, forest and river scenery ; in springs of cold, warm and hot medicinal waters, now "running wild " within a short distance of the station ; in varieties of haired and feathered game — deer, bear, grouse, etc., and fishing, taken in connection with the admirable climate and ease of approach — affords unrivalled attractions, just such as would be patronized by tens of thousands of visitors annually. Cascade Locks should not be confounded with Cascades, the seat of Skamania county, Washington, generally known as Lower Cascades, by which name it will appear in our tour up the Columbia by steamer. The shipments of salmon from this station during the fishing season are very heavy, running into the hundreds of tons. On the Washington side of the river are vast forests of the finest timber, where are located some ol the largest saw-mills along the river. Old Blockhouse. — On the opposite side of the river from the station, in plain view, is situated the blockhouse once occupied by the late Gen. Sheridan, when he was proud of the title of "Lieutenant." It is in a dilapidated condition and can last but a few years longer. The Lock. — The question of improving the navigation of the Columbia river by a system of locks was before congress for many vears, but not until 1S7<> were any practical results obtained. That year $60,000 was appropriated to commence operations. Various subsequent appropriations have aggregated $1,500,000, and it is estimated another million will be required to complete the work. It is about 11 years since work commenced, and it is estimated about five years more will be required before the work will be completed; provided, there is 110 delay for the want of the necessary COLUMBIA RIVER SCENERY. 227 appropriations of money by congress. The lock now being constructed is eight feet deep over mitre sill at low water ; 402 feet long, and 90 feet wide ; lift of 24 feet. There' are now employed at the work about 200 men of all classes, and quite extensive buildings for the use of officers and men, and storehouses for materials and supplies are located here. Leaving the station at the Locks, in half a mile a fine view of the falls and also of the work being done un the big lock can be obtained 228 "mui/Tum in parvo." BoilMCVillC — [From Cascade Locks, four miles], — Is a regular meal station and a very good one; expense, 75 cents. The station is situated in a grove of firs and pines on the river bank. Just below on the opposite side of the river is the town of Cascade; the rail- track down to a long floating platform is the landing transfer wharf of the Portland and The Dalles line of steamboats. It will be on our Tour No. 19. Fisheries — Beginning at ''the dalles," three miles east of the city of Tl^e Dalles, fisheries are to be seen at many places along the river, on both sides. At some of these are large wheels for catching fish by water power, and large buildings for packing and canning. From Cascade Locks to the mouth of Columbia river they are plentiful — never out of sight of one or more. Leaving Bonneville, a number of large fisheries and one can- ning establishment are passed; also DodsonS [four miles]. Here the down-river view is exceedingly grand, after which get ready to view the Multonomah falls. They will be close on the left, in a narrow gorge, and can only be seen for a moment; hence, this advice, but we first pass OnEOXTA [four miles], and then look sharp, in another mile is Yliilf onomuh Fall* — Both falls and station. The latter is wake kloshe, the former — Immense! sheer drop 850 feet. [See Tour No. /y and large view No. /. | Bridal Veil— Is a station and Faee [four miles from MultonomahJ. The former contains a large saw-mill and about 75 lumbermen; the latter— falls— can be seen close to the left on leaving the station. ( See illustration, page 225. ) Pillars of Hercules — or Needle Rocks— are to be seen ahead soon after leaving Bridal Veil; they are between the railroad and river, and form a gate-way to the beyond. On the top of the tallest rock grows a thrifty pine, the roots of which are squeezed in a crevice of the rock. [See illustration, page 25$. 1 Rooster Rock — or Latourelle Falls— [pop.. 60; from Bridal Veil, four miles; Portland. _>.} miles]. — The station consists of a general store, two saw-mills, and a few private residences. The attractions are the falls — a drop of 400 feet — behind which one can walk, and the noted Rooster rock, of which more hereafter, on river tour. [See large view No. 4.) The views of river, falls, rock and cliff scenery, at this point are indescribable, they are extended, grand and most beautiful. Leaving the Rooster and passing through a tunnel, another marvelous view bursts upon the vision. We are now through the Cascade range of mountains, and out upon a broad rolling country, leaving the Columbia river far to the right. It will be in view no more on this tour. Crossing Sandy river, we soon pass the little stations of TrouT- dai.E [seven miles] and Fairvihw [three miles]; the latter is fairly named, as a fairer view of fair objects could not be had outside of a fairy realm. ( '. i.T Ready — Like a hungry government mule in sight of a corn crib our engine, almost in sight of Portland, is rattling along at a lively rate. The porter comes up smiling, "Brush? brush ye off.'" He is a good fellow; give him a "tip," be lias earned one. Then look around and gather up your "grips," wraps and Torus, by which GEM OF OREGON. 229 time the train will be on the big bridge over the Willamette river, and a look up and down the river, and the towns and cities beside it, may be one of interest. HoTELvS — Where to stop in Portland is a question now to be decided, as at the other end of the bridge there will be nearly three score and ten shouters, and all for as many different hotels. The Esmond, Oilman, St. Charles and Merchants' are the nearest to first-class. Rates grade down from $3 to $1.50 a day, with free 'bits to and from traius. Portland — [ Pop., including East Portland and suburbs, 50,000; eleva- tion, 53 feet]. — 19 the seat of Multnomah county, situated on the west bank of the Willamette river, about 114 miles from the Pacific ocean, at the mouth of the Columbia river, and ten miles above the junction of the Willamette and Columbia rivers. It is a port of entry, where steamers and sailing vessels, drawing as high as 20 feet of water, can pass up and down, to and from, without trouble. The large steamships which ply between Portland and San Francisco, drawing from 14 to 18 feet of water, come arid go almost on railroad time. Portland is the chief commercial city north of San Francisco on the Pacific coast, being situated in the midst or at the gateway of the immense traffic of the state of Oregon and the greater por- tion of Idaho, Washington and Montana territories. Portland is also the great railroad center of the North Pacific coast. The location of the city is most picturesque. Along the river front for nearly three miles are wharves, ferry docks, immense warehouses, depot buildings, jobbing houses, manufactories, etc. The slope from the wharf to the first parallel street is not far from 60 feet. Extending back for nearly one mile the slope is gradual, after which the grade increases, and terraces of streets extend along one above another until the ascent, within one and a half miles from the .river, becomes almost too steep for firs and pines to root and stand; yet we see in nooks and glens the cozy cottage of the tradesman, and on more commanding points the castle of the na- bob. Towering above all, a thousand feet above the river, a forest ridge confronts the vision; some are mighty trees, that should a squirrel climb them ten score feet, his rest would then be far below the eagle's perch. But could we sit beside the game, what would we see? To the north and westward the Willamette and Columbia rivers, with their prows of commerce and numerous islands shaded with forests and bordered with industries. To the northeast Mts. Rainier, Adams and St. Helens rise from a border of green and gold. Turn now to the east and south ; at our feet is Portland and her eastern namesake and suburb, divided by the Willamette in its journey through the beautiful valley from the south. Raising the eyes over immense forests the long dark range of the Cascades is in view, with Mt. Hood as the central figure. The memory of the "oldest in- habitant" runneth not back to the date when this grand old moun- tain was dressed ivholly in summer clothes; in fact, they are frank to affirm that around the summit of Mt. Hood the snow ever rests and for eight months of the year its white reservoirs will vary to 100 feet in depth. The city of Portland, in fine business blocks, manufactories, imports and exportations, steamship and railroad facilities, costly 230 PORTLAND AND SUBURBS. public and private buildings, and general improvements and thrift, with but one exception, has no equal on the Pacific coast. It con- tains 33 churches, seven schools, and school property valued at $356,000, 12 banks and bankers, six large flouring-mills and 1 1 flour and feed-mills, nine foundries and machine works, six engine and boiler works, three packing houses, 16 furniture manufactories, 12lumber companies, nine planing-mills, four sash, door and blind factories, four breweries, two broom factories, four carriage and wagon works, and many smaller manufacturing establishments. The great number, size and extent of business of the wholesale mercantile establishments of Portland is a marvel. Their trade covers the entire drainage of the Columbia river and its tributaries in Oregon, Washington and the greater portion of Idaho and Western Montana, something over 300,000 scmare miles. Travel where you will in this region Portland is on the tongue of the people. Portland! Every mention of business is connected with Portland. Of retail stores and shops of all kinds the city is abundantly supplied, including nine Chinese, which do a heavy business with their people throughout the area of country above named. The city is well provided with water works and an efficient fire department. It has ten colleges, academies and educational insti- tutions, a library of 15,000 volumes, cable and street horse cars. The hotels number scores, the Esmond, Oilman, St. Charles and Merchants' leading; two American theatres and one Chinese. Then there are a great number of newspapers. The Oregonian is the chief. * The. Democrat, News, Telegram and Freie Presse (German) are each daily and weekly. The prominent weeklies are New Northwest, Journal of Commerce, Mercury, Times, World, Rural Spirit (agricultural), and Farmer and Dairyman. The West Shore is a fine monthly; each number is a mine of in- formation. Eor a "time-table" guide of the northwest, buy Lewis & Dryden's. For a condensed mass of reliable information, send to W. R. Struble, secretary state board of immigration, for a copy of the "New Empire," sent free. Portland is embowered in foliage; ornamental shade trees, or- chards of fruit, beautiful gardens and lawns abound, while on the slopes of the heights the native firs and pines rise from a bed of ferns, vines and countless varieties of flowers, ten score feet or more. A magnificent emerald border overlooking the richest dia- mond setting in all the great northwest — Portland and its suburbs. EAST Portland and Aubina — Are the thrifty suburbs of Port- land, situated on the eastern bank of the Willamette river opposite, connected by bridges and ferry lines, and sustains to it the same relative position as Brooklyn, N. Y., does to the city of New York. Timber ridges are close to the back of the towns, around which are young orchards, gardens and scattering private residences. Rail-tracks extend along the entire river front, besides large warehouses, where an immense shipping business is carried on. There are quite a number of manufactories in these places, among which are two lar,L, r e canning works, saw-mill and three breweries. Connections — The railroads centering in Portland are Oregon 5c Califor- nia. Oregon Railway 5c Navigation, Northern Pacific and the Oregonian. The steamer lines are numerous — too munerous to mention here — but steam- ships, for nearly every port up and down ihecoast, on the Columbia, Willamette, Cowlitz and Clatskaiiie rivers run regularly. POINTERS — CONDENSED. 231 gggplf you want to learn all about the country from Portland through southern Oregon and the whole length and breadth of California to Ensenada, Old Mexico, buy CROFUTT'S OVERLAND Tours No. 2. It covers the whole route noted by the red line on the map in this book. San Francisco — by water — The Oregon Railway & Naviga- tion Company run a regular line of steamships between the City of Portland and San Francisco, California ; leaving Portland at 12 midnight and San Francisco at 10 a. m., semi-weekly; time 50 hours. Rates of fare : Cabin, $16 ; steerage, $8 round trip, unlimited, $30. These rates include meals and berths. jggp^The route to the mouth of the Columbia river is the same as noted in Side Tour No. 17. Oregon and Portland City — Miscellaneous items and statistics for 1888. — We are indebted for man)- of the following items to the Portland Oregonian. Educational— The educational facilities of Oregon are of the first order, and consist of 45 universities, colleges, academies and private schools. There are 1,530 organized school districts in the state, and 55,402 children on the rolls, of which the average attendance numbered for 1888, 40,872 pupils. There are 2,343 teachers. Average salary for males $48.03 ; females, $36.97. Number of school houses, 1,439; valuation of public school houses, $1,190,650 ; valuation of public school property, $1,350,668. Amount raised by direct tax, $179,785.22. Amount raised by county tax, $322,243.52 ; amount raised by counties for state school fund, $108,217.25; amount raised from all other sources, $92,774. Counties — There are 29 counties in Oregon, the assessed val- uation of which [at one-third actual value] was in 1887, $84,888,580 ; in 1888, $85,893,429— increase, $1,004,849. gglfThe first school in Portland, Oregon, was a private one, opened by Dr. Ralph Wilcox in the fall of 1847. On March 31, 1856, districts Nos. 1 and 2 were consolidated. The Central school was opened May 17, 1858 ; Harrison street school, January 1*2, 1806 ; North school, February 10, 1868 ; High school, April 26*, 1809; Park school, September 1, 1879; Failing school, October 9, 1882 ; Couch school, January 2, 1883. Jojgg^Total banking capital of Portland for 1888, $7,824,(19!). gig^The Portland Board of Trade is a strong body of men, numbering 243 members. I The total business of Portland for 1888 amounted to $911,000,000. Emigrants — A close estimate gives the number of emigrants who settled in Oregon during the year 1888 at upwards of 60,000. {tglf'The arrivals at the Portland hotels for 1888 show an increase over 1887 of more than double the number. fiSpTn strolling around Portland, one will seldom see "to let" on any building. The buildings are usually all rented before they are ready for occupancy. g&gfThe real estate transfers of Portland for 1888 amounted to $7,035,866. J8@*Portlaud building and street improvements and street rail tracks, $2,162,500. In suburbs, within six miles, $1,360,139. A man or woman without enemies is oflittle value. 232 FACTS AND FIGURES. Meteorological — At Portland the year 1888 afforded 60 rainy days. January 15 was noted for the lowest temperature ever recorded in Portland — two degrees below zero. The month of May was the warmest, with the least rainfall of an}- May on record, the highest temperature being 91 degrees — lowest, 38 degrees; average 20 degrees. June had the most rain of any June on record, and Julv had seven days in succession on which the temperature was above 90 degrees — rainfall, 29.05 inches. New Railroad Bridge — The new railroad bridge at Port- land, over the Willamette river, is of steel and iron. It consists of a draw, the length of which is 340 feet, and a fixed span 320 feet long, making a total length of OHO feet. Oregon Railway & Navigation Co. — The following official figures will give the readers an idea of the amount and class of business done by the O. R. & N. Co., for the year ending June 30, L888 : Total number of passengers carried during the year, 196,563; earnings from same, $784,996.35 ; freight earnings, $3,530,558.42; total from all sources, 84,542,752.25. FREIGHT IN TONS. Merchandise 126,722.3 \ Oats 10,564.2 Lumber 82,571.8 Barley 13,969.7 Agricultural implements 6,633.8 Household goods Cattle 18,207.0 Hogs andsheep 8,945-7 Fish 17,691.8 Hides i,33°-7 Wool..... 9,138.0 Wheat 324,954.1 Flax seed 8,822.2 Flour and feed 58,558.5 Potatoes 6,272.1 Hops 1,378.8 Fruit 4,762.8 Wood 20,958.7 Coal 4,858.9 Miscellaneous 205,016.6 Tons, Increase over 1887 — 51,752.7 tons. 935,869.7 RAILROAD MILEAGE. Columbia division Mountain Eastern Palouse 214.1 217-5 134.0 121.3 Heppner branch 45.2 Total mileage. Increase over 1887 — 08.5 miles. Dayton branch 13.0 Pomeroy " 29.5 Pampa " 53.0 Moscow " 27. s 845.4 In addition to its lines of railroad the O. R. oc N. Co. operates steamship lines as follows : Portland to San Francisco, 670 miles Between Puget Sound points, 283 " Portland and Eugene, 172 " Portland and Astoria, 98 Total, Portland and Lower Cascades, 63 miles Upper Cascades and The Dalles, 51 " Celilo and Priest's Rapids, 205 " Riparia and Lewiston, 78 " - • - - - 1,620 " The company have in service three ocean steamships, 16 river steamers, and eight barges and wharf-boats; total27; value, $373,075. PORTLAND INDUSTRIES FOR 1S8S— Condensed. HANDS BUSINESS Flour and feed 196 53,357,662 1,501,200 825,000 800,000 686,500 624 .8. in 460,000 380,000 366,000 300,000 250,000 222,500 200,000 200,000 172,000 755,000 150,000 150,000 Foundries 976 Lumber mills 517 Woolen mills 345 Furniture 400 Printing 310 Planing-mills 210 Breweries 53 Paint and oil 19 Confectionery 102 Crackers and bread.,.. 90 Cordage 35 Gasworks 18 Dressmaking, etc 165 Harness and saddlery 70 Spices and coffee 17 Fruit packing 196 Meat packing 50 Boat building 100 HANDS BUSINESS Bags, tents, etc 50 $130,000 Reduction works 25 127,852 Wagons, etc 100 125,000 Paper mill 70 125,000 Waterworks 45 Cooperage 42 92,000 Ice 31 91,000 Wooden boxes 7" 91,000 Furs 23 90,060 Soda water 22 75.000 Brick i.so 64,000 Tanneries 20 56,000 Electric light works... 20 60,000 Marble 35 50,000 Pottery i" 35,000 Jewelry 16 35,000 Lime and cement 10 25, Miscellaneous 400 500,000 l'otal (Footings), 5,009 $13,884,522 FLOATING DOWN THE COLUMBIA. 233 A summary of the whole wool clip of the Pacific northwest foots up as follows : Pounds. Western Washington 500,000 Willamette valley 1,000,000 Southern Oregon 500,000 Territory west of Cascades 2,000,000 The Dalles..". 4,500,000 Grant's 500,000 Arlington 2,500,000 Echo 1,000,000 Pendleton 2,000,000 La Grande 1,000,000 Baker City 750,000 All of eastern Oregon 12,250,000 South of Snake river 2,000,000 North of Snake river, 1,000,000 North of Columbia river 1,000,000 4.000,000 Total of Columbia region 18,250,000 DOWX TO THE (MEAX, Side Tour No. 17 — From Portland, down the Colum- bia, to Kalama, Astoria and the Pacific Ocean. The regular steamers of the O. R. & N. line leave Portland morning and evening for Astoria. Many of these boats compare favorably with those plying on eastern rivers. The staterooms are large, the cabins neat and comfortable, and the meals such as to delight an epicure. The morning boat leaves at o'clock, and is the one to take to view the scenery by daylight. Then, for the return, if the night be clear and a full moon at half mast, and you desire to behold scenery unspeakably wild, weird, grand and beautiful at times, take the night boat from Astoria and you can ' 'make a night of it, " the remembrance of which will remain vivid to a ripe old age. Leaving Portland the direction is a point west of north for 4(1 miles, changing gradually to the westward for the remainder of the distance. Steaming down the Willamette river ST. John's [six miles] is the first landing. It contains a little church, a little store and a big warehouse for shipping produce; for a background it has a forest of pines, with fruit orchards and gardens in the little clearings. Ten miles from Portland the Willamette joins our old friend, the Columbia river. At this point, should the sky be clear, a fine view can be had of Mt. Hood to the east, and Mts. Rainier, Adams and St. Helena, their white peaks glistening in the morn- ing sun. There are many islands in the river along its entire length which are very generally covered with pines, cedars, willows, ferns and a dense undergrowth of shrubs. On some of these islands clearings can be seen, with neat white farm houses, grain fields, orchards and gardens. The same can be said of the country on each side of the river, the forests extending away back to the summit of the moun- tains, in places 30 to 40 miles. Commencing about 40 miles from Portland we come upon the great harvest fields of the salmon fishermen, whose nets, fishing plants and canneries extend all the way to the mouth of the Colum- bia river, with Astoria for general headquarters. 234 1808— ASTORIA— 1889. Saillt IlelCllX — [Pop., 300; from Portland, 2; miles] . — Is Oil the Oregon side, and is the seat of Columbia county. It contains sev- eral stores, a court house, and a weekly, Oregon Mist. The lumber interest is the most important here. Connections — By rail: Northern Pacific and mail hack west, twice a week to Pittsburgh, 20 miles; thence south to Vernonia, five miles. Kalauia — |Pop., ioo; from Portland, 3S miles]. — Is the seat of Cow- litz couutv, situated at the Columbia river transfer crossing of the Portland and Tacoma line of the Northern Pacific railroad. It contains a good depot, several stores and saloons, three hotels — the Riverside, Kazano and Havana — and the Cowlitz Advocate. Leaving Kalama, our boat on its way down the river stops at an even score of landings, where salmon fishing, canning and lum- bering are the only industries, and passing many more, apparently of the same kind, with the islands and the mountains on both sides covered with a dense forest of pine, spruce, cedar and hem- lock timber. Steaming beside great rocky spurs, shooting down from the higher mountains, and dropping sheer a thousand feet at the water's edge, with the river gradually widening to two, three, four and five miles. On the route we pass scores of great ships, steamers and river craft, and countless numbers of swans, geese, ducks and other water fowl, 011 all sides. Shooting out from the southern mountains a long, high prom- ontory confronts our way and vision. Will it move? Our boat heads directly for its rocky nose — "Tongue Point" is its name, and it stands there solitary and alone, lapping the briny waters of the Pacific. The boat clears the "tongue" within a few fathoms, and there it is directly ahead, but 17 miles away, the great Pacific ocean. Just to the left, nestling in beside the mountain, is Astoria — [Pop.. 7.000; from Portland, 98 miles], — Settled ill 1808, being the first settlement on the Pacific coast. It is the seat of Clatsop county, situated near the mouth of the Columbia river on a promontory facing Point Adams [at the "jetty," 15 miles west], and flanked by Young's bay. Its chief industry is salmon fishing and canning, being the headquarters of the Columbia river fish- eries, and does by far the largest salmon fishing business of any citv in the world. The city is built around the semi-circular side of a promontory, which rises 1,000 feet above the waters, covered with timber from base to summit, except where it has been cleared for building pur- poses. The residence portion is built on this sloping ground, shaded in many places by giant trees of nature's planting. All the principal business streets are supported on piers or piles over the waters, also, all the docks, wharves, warehouses and many of the large business blocks have their foundations in the water, the tide under or about them, rising from ten to 12 feet. The city has quite a number of fine brick business blocks and brick residences, stores and shops of all kinds, seven churches, three schools, with 12 teachers and 510 scholars — the buildings cost $40,000 — three banks, three planing-mills, large steam saw-mills, two sash, door and blind factories, iron works and one brewery, an opera house, with a seating capacity of 1,500, electric light, telephone, etc. Vessels from all parts of the world visit Astoria. The average number loaded each year at her wharves is about 200. The principal shipments from Astoria are salmon and lumber. -SALMON FISHERIES. 235 ISLANDS IN THE COLUMBIA RIVER. The city has a Chamber of Commerce, three hotels — the Occi- dental, Astor and Barker — signal service office and five newpapers — the Astorian and the Pioneer, both daily and weekly, and the Transcript, weekly. Astoria is often called the "Venice of America." The site is certainty a very beautiful one, but we presume the name was sug- gested by so much of the city being built over the water of the bav. Salmon Canning — Is the chief industry at Astoria. Here are located 28 large canneries, the annual business of which amounts to nearly $3,000,000. 236 GRAND ROUND-IP. The pack for 1888 amounted to 800,820 cases; the pack for ten years ending with 1888 aggregated 5,067,820 cases, or 243,255,480 cans. The fishing season commences with April and ends with July, four months, when nearly 5,000 men are employed. The law pro- hibits the catching of fish in the months of August and September, but allows them to be caught all other months of the year; but thev are very scarce except in the mouths above named. Clatsop County — Is largely mountainous, but there is a con- siderable amount of rich bottom land, well adapted for cultivation, when the ground has been cleared of timber. There is also some very rich tide flat land which only wants diking to make it very valuable hay land. Clatsop plains, a strip of land lying along the seashore, which has been settled for 35 vears, is the largest body of agricultural laud in the county. The soil is light and sandy and produces vegetables, grain and small fruits in abundance. But little wheat is raised, oats and barley being the principal cereals. Hay is the chief crop, and dairying the leading occupation with the farming population — and its dairy products are especially fine. For a hardy, industrious class of emigrants, who are not afraid to go work vigorously and clear up the forests, this region offers many advantages. There still remains a large amount of land sub- ject to entrv under the various land laws of the government. Connection's — Steamers for San Francisco and up and down the coast; also, to ILWACO, OYSTERVILLE, SEASIDE LANDING, GRAYS HARBOR, TILLAMOOK ; also, from Astoria, mail hack, once a week to Olney, ten miles; Denver, i) miles; thence south to Jewell, four miles; Mishawaka, nine miles: also, from Astoria, mail hack south, once a week, to Shadwell, ii miles; also, from As- toria, southwest, three times a week toSHlPANOK, seven miles; thence south to Seaside, 12 miles; thence south, once a week to Onion Peak, iS miles; Neha- lem, seven miles; Folley, nine miles; Garibaldi, seven miles; thence, three times a week to Hobsonville, two miles; Kit, cms, four miles, and Tilla- mook, seven miles. From Astoria — Mail boat northwest, daily to Ilwaco, 15 miles; also, north, mail once a week to Knappton, seven miles; also, northea?t, mail once a week to Spark's Point, 15 miles; Gray's River, six miles. Returning to Portland we start once more on our main tour TO Pl'GET SOIXD COl'XTRY. main Tour — From Portland to Olvmpia, Tacoma, Seattle:, Whatcom, Port Townsend, Victoria and the Puget Sound Country. The route to be taken from Portland is by the Northern Pacific railroad, from their depot in Portland down the west bank of the Willamette and Columbia rivers to Hunter, where a transfer boat takes the entire train on board and crosses the Columbia to Kalania, and thence northward to Tacoma. There are two regu- lar trains each way a day, both in the morning at 2 o'clock and 11:05 o'clock. The latter is the best to take. It is the Portland and Tacoma train. "All aboard!" is now the command, and our train rolls gently along through the suburbs of Portland, passing immense saw-mills, potteries, iron works and warehouses. Then comes the In Utah a man is rated according to the number of wives he has, thus: A man with two wives is a "two-ply" Mormon; one with three, a "three-ply. " Each wife adds a "ply." HUNTKR — KAL.VJIA. race-track (maybe in view of a race) and forests of oak, ash, fir, hemlock and cottonwood trees, sandwiched with willows, vines, ferns and flowers, with an occasional clearing showing farms, young orchards of fruit and vegetable gardens. Such being the description of the whole route to the crossing at Hunter, 38 miles, with the addition of great numbers of small inlets, creeks and little rivulets traversing the way; the whole is bordered on the left by a high wooded ridge, and on the right by the river and numerous islands, with here and there small fisheries, saw-mills and little side-track stations. Noted Mounts — Should the day be clear many of the noted mountain peaks can be seen at different points along the route from the car windows — Mt. Hood to the east and Mts. Rainier, Adams and St. Helens to the north and northeast. They range in altitude: Hood, 11, 225 feet; Rainier, 14,444 feet; Adams, 0,-570 feet, and St. Helens, 0,750 feet. For the greater portion of the year these peaks are covered with snow, and at all times it can be found in the nooks and gorges about their summits. HlllltCl* — [From Portland, 38 miles; Kalama, two miles; Tacoma, 107 miles].— Here the regular passenger trains meet; the one from Tacoma has just run off the transfer boat and is standing on the side-track to the left. An engine is attached to the rear end of our train which is then divided in the middle and one-half the train is pulled and the other pushed onto the transfer boat, which immedi- ately steams away across the river for Kalama, and the bell rings for a 50-cent dinner in the cabin of the boat. Kalama — [See Tour No. ij ) page 234^ — Is reached by our train after going over the pull and push process adopted at Hunter for loading, when it steams away for the northward beside a high timber-covered ridge on the right, and the Columbia river on the left, and stops at Carroll'8— [five miles].— A small station just below the mouth of the Cowlitz river. Here the only industry is lumbering. Saw and shingle-mills, one general store and about 50 settlers comprise the place. Leaving the Columbia our train turns to the right up the Cow- litz river through a dense thicket of undergrowth, pines, spruce, hemlock, ash and willows, the larger timber having been cut off. Saw-mills are now the rule, and lumbering and wood-cutting the chief occupations of the settlers, although there area few clearings where farms, orchards and gardens are to be seen. Stock-raising is also a growing industry. Kclao— [Pop., 150; from Kalama, n miles].— Is a lumbering hamlet situated on the Cowlitz river where there are a number of cleared farms that produce abundantly of ever}' seed put in the ground, as the soil is of the richest black vegetable mold, intermixed with fine sand, quick, rich and warm. Following the river it is ten miles to Castle Rock, or Silver Lake statiou--[p p., 525; from silver Lake, six miles]. — Several general stores, saw and shingle-mills, two hotels — Spencer and Central— and numberless large tree stumps com- prise the station. The beautiful Silver lake is east from the station six miles. Connections— Mail hack; East, twice a week to Silver Lake, six miles; Sightly, seven miles, and Toutle, three miles. 238 WIN LOCK — CHEHALIS. Leaving Castle Rock the country is unusually rough; tall pines, firs and ash trees cover the valley and slopes together with a dense undergrowth of willows and ferns. The river and all the little streams are utilized in times of high water for floating logs and wood. Five miles from the last station our train crosses the Cowlitz river, which comes down from the east to its west bank, and leaving it, we pass in two miles the little lumbering camp of OLEOUA, and Sopkna [four miles], another of the same kind, and then the big Rhoades saw-mill. WilllOC'k — [Pop.. 550; from Portland, 77 miles; Tacoma, 6s miles]. — This is a new settlement among the stumps, of what was only a few years ago a dense forest. It is now an important lumbering town, with five general merchandise stores, a number of small shops, two churches, a good district school and one good hotel — the Winlock. Connections— Mail coach: Southeast daily to Cowlitz rive miles; thence south to Toledo, two miles. From Cowlitz— Mail hack north, once a week to Ethel, eight miles. Also from Cowlitz— Mail hack northeast, three times a week to Ladew, seven miles; Sai.kcm, six miles; Silver Creek, four miles; and Mossy Rock, seven miles. From Mossy Rock— Mail hack east, once a week to Osborn, five miles, and Vance, 25 miles. Leaving Winlock, fire, more than the woodman's ax, has de- stroyed much of the large timber along the line of road, but the young growth of trees is very thick and growing rapidly, among which are tamarack, pine, fir, ash, oak and maple. \;i|KM UK - — [Pop.. 100; from Winlock, seven miles]. — Is situated in the timber, with two stores, a church and three large saw-mills and a shingle-mill. Besides the ordinary board lumber, a large business is done here in getting out large timbers and ties for the railroad. It is a thrifty town. Connections— Mail hack: East twice a week to Rankin, nine miles; Til- den, seven miles Passing the little station of NEWAUKUM [from Napavine, four miles], a lumbering camp with one store and a big saw-mill, situated on Xewaukum creek, we soon reach Chehalis valley, in which are many fine farms. Cliolmli!* — [Pop., 600; from Napavine, seven miles; Tacoma, 64 miles]. Settled in 1871. Is the seat of Lewis county, on the Chehalis river. It contains five churches, good schools, three general stores, two saw-mills, a shingle-mill, one planing-mill, two flouring-uiills, one bank, several hotels— the Chehalis, the principal one— two weekly papers, the Bee and Nugget. The principal shipments are lumber. Hour, wheat, oats, hay and fruit. Connections— Mail hack: West, twice a week to Ci vquato, five miles; thence south to Boistford, '.en miles; thence west to Pi Ki.i-. nine miles. Ceiltrilliil — [Pop., 1, ; from Chehalis, four miles, Tacoma 50 miles}. Settled in 1871. Formerly known as Skookumchuck. It is a thrifty town, beautifully sittiated on the Chehalis river, along which are some agricultural lauds, producing great crops of wheat, oats, hay, potatoes and farm produce. It has three churches, and a good district school; two llouring- niills, four shingle and lath-mills, two saw-mills, two hotels— the Ceutralia and Arlington— and one weekly paper, the News. Surveys for a railroad pass through the town from (bay's harbor eastward, claimed by some to be in the interest of the Southern Pacific Co., of California. MTS. TACOMA — RAINIER. 239 Connections — Mail hack: West twice a week to Medow, eight miles; thence southeast to Gleneden, five miles. Also northwest to Grand Mound, nine miles; thence southwest to Indepen- dence, eight miles; thence northwest to Oakvtlle, five miles. [See under "Olympia.."] Leaving Centralia some fine fields appear, then more timber, a big saw-mill, Skookumchuck creek, then the station. SCJltCO — [Pop., 650; from Centralia, seven miles; Tenino, four miles]. The station is down on the "time cards," as "Bucoda, " but Rucoda is nearly one mile away, where are located the Northwest Coast Coal Co. 's coal mines. The coal from this mine is lignite and, while inferior to anthracite, or the best quality of bituminous coal, burns readily, and is a coal in good demand. The vein is seven feet thick, opened by a slope, 14 feet wide, seven feet high and 800 feet long. The out-put for the first nine months of 1888 aggregated 49,160 tons, employing 7& persons, eight mules and 48 cars of one ton capacity each. Most of this coal is shipped to Tacoma and Olympia, and then sent to San Francisco on vessels. Seatco is situated on Skookumchuck creek and contains two general stores, one sash, door and blind factory, one planing-mill, two saw-mills. The principal shipments are coal and lumber. IClllllO — [From Portland, 106 miles; Olympia, 16 miles; Tacoma, 39 miles]. — Here goes forth the "Tenino, change cars for Olympia!" This is merely a junction station where the Olympia & Chehalis Valley railroad connects with the Northern Pacific. {Hf The tour over this route, taking in Olympia, the capital of Washington, will be SIDE TOUR No. 18, commencing on page 24!). From Tenino, our direction is more to the eastward, crossing the Des Chutes river, and passing through many small clearings, then into the timber again, only to be repeated time and again. Many of the moss views while passing are very beautiful, the pendant moss being very long, resembling, at a distance, trees loaded with snow and icicles. Yd ill Prairie — [From Tacoma, 23 miles]. — This "prairie" is more adapted to hay and oats than other productions, yet others are grown to a limited extent. The prairie is more of a Park, surrounded, as it is, on all sides by forests of timber. Stock-rais- ing is a growing industry in this region, as second to lumbering. Mr. Tacoma — Is the name for Mt. Rainier in this region, and Woe! to the person that calls it "Rainier" in the hearing of a citizen of Tacoma. But what is in a name? If the sky be clear a most beautiful view can be had of the grand old mountain from this prairie. How would a combination name do? Rainier-Tacoma or Tacoma- Rainier? A Seattle man would want it Seattle-Rainier. Nisqually river now conies in view, along which are some pros- perous settlers; crossing, fenced fields appear to enclose good crops. Passing the little station of Media [four miles], sometimes called "Roy," with its store and lumber business, and then through a strip of country about equally divided between grass-land and timber, we reach HiEEHURST [six miles], where grain and hops figure among the productions. Then comes Lake View [five miles], from which it is eight miles to the protege and prodigy of the Northern Pacific Railroad Co., its headquarters and terminus on the Pacific coast — Tacoma. 240 CITY OF TACOMA. TcM'OlllH — [Pop., 14,500; from Portland, 145 miles; Seattle, 41 miles]. Settled in 1873. It is the seat of Pierce county, the western term- inus of the Northern Pacific railroad, and the head of navigation on Puget sound, and at the mouth of Puyallup river. Its situa- tion is most commanding and picturesque, being on the sloping side of a high promontory, extending out into Commencement bay, facing to the east and northward. On the eastern face the slope is gradual from the water's edge; on the more northern the bluff rises sheer 800 feet, leaving only room enough along the water's edge for a railroad track. From the top of the bluff the laud slopes up gradually. The streets paralleling the bay are built in terraces and extend up for half a mile to a lovely table land, commanding a most extended view to the east and north. To the back of this table land, less than half a mile, stands a dense forest of pine, fir, ash, cedar and maple trees, with a rank undergrowth of shrubs, vines, ferns and wild flowers. It is only a few years ago since this entire promontory and plateau was covered with heavy timber, as evidenced to-day by the great number of stumps still standing, many from three to five feet in diameter. The residence portion of the city is built upon the higher slopes and on the elevated table land. Here may be seen magnificent private residences in course of construction, surrounded by stumps higher than your head. So anxious are the citizens to build, and so valuable the time to these rustling, bust- ling and driving people, that they clear away a spot large enough to build upon, get the roof on, move in, and attend to the stumps at their leisure. The business portion of the city is on the lower streets, where are many palatial brick and stone business blocks, filled with enormous stocks of goods of all kinds, and from almost every land and clime. Here, too, are immense shipping interests in coal, lumber, wheat and all kinds of domestic and foreign export and importations. Vessels from all parts of the world are among the arrivals at this port, bringing the rich goods from the Orient to exchange for those of the Occident, thus constituting Tacoma the entrepot and commercial center, or gateway between the old and the new world. In the rush and boom of business, it's but natural to forget all else, yet the Tacoma man remembers his God, as evidenced by L'4 church organizations in the city; or, can it be that he is like a prominent member of Mr. Beecher's church, always ready to pay liberally, but didn't want to be bothered about God. The schools are in a flourishing condition. There are two institutions here of much merit — the Annie Wright seminary for girls, and the Washington college for boys. The city has a very complete system of water works, and an efficient fire department. Coming now 7 to business, the city contains five banks, seven lumber and three large coal companies, one iron works, three planing-mills, two shingle and lath-mills, one sash, door and blind factory, four furniture manufactories, three foundry and machine works, two flour and feed-mills, three carriage and wagon works, two breweries, one ship-builder, one pottery, four brick and tile works, and one broom factory. .Street cars traverse many of the principal streets; electric light, telephone and all the modern improvements are at Tacoma. TACOMA AND VICINITY. 241 The Northern Pacific Railroad Co. have here an extensive plant of machine works, employing a large force of men. The wharves and piers are on the northern face of the city, reached by a wagon road from the bluff, by an expensive dug-way blasted from the face of the cliff wall. There are three theatres, one business college, six newspapers — the Ledger and News, both daily and weekly — the World, weekly and the Die Wacht Aus Sunde (German), weekly; of hotels there are just a score; the principal ones are the Tacoma, Villard, Western, Central, Halstead, Massasoit and Hotel Fife — the latter on European plan. The charges at these houses rate down from $3 to $1.25 a day. Transfer "busses" and wagons meet all trains and boats; charges, 50 cents for passengers, and 25 cents for trunks. Connections — By rail: Northern Pacific railroad for the north, east and south by steamer for all points on Puget Sound. Smei/Ting Works — The Tacoma Smelter company, organized in October, 1888, have secured 25 acres of land four miles west from Tacoma and commenced erecting large works for smelting the ores from the Cceur D'Alene mines of Idaho. The parties are all heavy capitalists from St. Paul and Chicago. The principal reason for locating at Tacoma was the cheap coal for smelting. It is estimated the works when completed will cost $500,000. Pierce County, of which Tacoma is the county seat, has an area of 1,800 square miles, the greater portion of which is moun- tainous and heavily timbered. Lumbering, coal-mining and hop- raising are the chief industries. Next in importance comes dairy- ing and stock-raising. Much of the prairie land is gravelly with light soil with some scattering swamp and swale lauds. Where the heavy timber has been cut off a thrift}- growth of young firs and a few cedar and oak covers the land. The agricultural portions of the county are confined to Puyallup, Stuck and the Upper White river valleys. The Puyallup valley lies on either side of the Puvallup river, and in its agricultural portion varies in width from one quar- ter to two miles, and is about 20 miles long. It is a strip of very rich bottom land, and is chiefly devoted to hop-raising, there be- ing at this time between 800 and 900 acres devoted to that industry. The lauds originally were covered with a dense growth of timber and required clearing. The Stuck valley lies between the Puyallup and White, and is a narrow strip of laud less than two miles wide by seven miles long. The soil is very rich, being an alluvial deposit, and is cov- ered with a dense growth of small timber. It requires clearing which takes about two years. The Upper White river valley is a small valley though of some- what greater extent than either the Puyallup or Stuck. Its soil is rich though not so rich as either of the other two. It is mostly covered with a growth of vine, maple and alder, easily cleared. The great wealth of the county lies in its coal mines and forests of timber. See "Coal," "Lumber" and "Hops" under Olympia. Puget Sound — Leaving Tacoma for the northern Puget Sound country we take the steamers of the O. R. & N. and are soon afloat in a superb palace on the largest and most magnificent body of water on the American continent. The water of the 242 SEATTLE— OUEEN BEE. sound is very clear and pure enabling one to see objects in it to a great depth. The navies of the world could float upon its bosom and hide from view among its numberless islands, bays and inlets. These islands and the whole country surrounding the sound and its bays and inlets are always in holiday costume; being clad in an everlasting dress-coat of emerald and gold, cut, fashioned and be-spangled in the most gorgeous maimer by the great architect. The waters of the sound are not only beautiful and capable of transporting the commerce of the world, but they contain a wealth of life-sustaining food beyond computation. The vast country bordering the sound and drained by the numerous streams that find their way into it far exceeds in natural wealth any like area on the American continent, or the famed regions of the old world. In forests of timber, in mines of coal and iron, in its fishing and hop industry, and its water-ways — the Puget Sound country to-day stands without a peer in any land. And we believe had the "Pil- grim Fathers" set foot upon the shores of the "sound" before they landed at " Plymouth Rock" the smoke from the Indian "teepe" and the "wilds of America" would noio be not far from that old "blarney stone." By leaving Tacoma at 8:45 o'clock a. m., Seattle is reached in a little over two hours; but, should the sky be clear, the moon at the full and at half mast, do not fail to take the boat that leaves Tacoma in the evening at 0:4"> o'clock, as a view of Puget sound by moonlight is one of surpassing beauty. The moon plays such wild, weird and fantastic tricks with the surroundings that one must needs feel the pulse to ascertain whether life still exists or by some sudden transition the Utopian dreamland of childhood had become a solid reality. In steaming up the sound to within one mile of the city of Seattle the traveler will see no indications of a city until the boat suddenly rounds a headland, when there! just across the beautiful El'iott bay, resting on the slopes of a monster semi-circle, seven miles in diameter, the outer rim of which rises nearly 500 feet above the waters of the bay, is the city of Seattle — [Pop., 23,000; from Tacoma, 41 miles; Port Townsend, 40 miles] . Settled in 1852. Is the seat of King's county and the Queen-bee of the Puget Sound country. Its west and portions of its north and south front is on what is known as Elliot bay, of the middle sound. Its northeast, east and southeast is on Black river, Lakes Union and Washington and the Duwamish river, all portions sloping towards the water from an elevation of about 500 feet. The cut- ting of the inter-lake canal has made it possible to row around the entire city in a small boat. Lake Washington is about 20 miles long, from two to four miles wide, and 19 feet above the level of the sound, and Lake Union about the size and 12 feet above the sound — both fresh water lakes. Seattle harbor or Elliott bay affords seven miles of water front, about one-fourth of which is now occupied by docks, railroad depots, ship-yards, ferry privileges, factories, canneries, dry-dock, great warehouses, and scores of small manufactories. Just in the rear of these comes large and most expensive busi- ness blocks of brick, stone and iron, and stores, hotels and shops of all kinds; and beyond still, rise terraced streets, one above the other to the summit, 011 which stand churches, SEATTLE AND VICINITY. 243 schools, colleges, and hundreds and hundreds of elegant private residences, overlooking the business portion, the bay, and sound, where float at times the flags of all nations, and be- yond, to' the snow-capped peaks of the Olympia range of moun- tains. Then again, the eastern slopes afford views equally grand. The beautiful Lake Washington appears in the foreground of the picture, just above an immense forest extending away 70 miles to the Cascade range of mountains, with the snow-clad peak of Mt. Rainier as a central figure, 14,444 feet above the level of the sea. The railroad tracks entering the city are laid along the entire water front with switch-tracks to warehouses, manufactories, etc. For commercial purposes, Seattle, topographically, is beyond comparison on the north Pacific coast, as evidenced in its wonder- ful increase in population and in its manufacturing and shipping business. In 1880 its population was a little over 3,000, in 1886 about 10,401), in 1887 16,200, and at the close of 1888 fully 23,000; increasing in its industries proportionately, and it would seem that this phenomenal growth must continue for many years, in fact as long as timber, coal, iron, agriculture, manufacturing, trade and commerce remain an essential element of prosperity to a city. Navy Yard — The construction of the inter-lake canal was by Seattle lumbermen, for the purpose of floating logs to the mills on the sound. It is one-fourth of a mile long, 30 feet deep, from 15 to 50 feet in width, and cost about $65,000. The project of a ship canal to unite the lakes with the sound has been urged upon Congress by the officials of the territory in language as follows: "We believe that the lakes situated near the city of Seattle, known as Lakes Union and Washington, are peculiarly fitted for the purpose, our belief being based upon the facts that thev are fresh water, with a depth of many fathoms; that they can be made accessible from Admiralty inlet by a canal about one mile in length the construction of which promises no engineering difficulties; that these lakes are never frozen; that they are bordered by extensive forests of fir, which is the best timber in the country for ship- building purposes; that good coal is extensively mined on the banks of Lake Washington, and that iron ore is found in abundance in the neighborhood. "The climate is mild and salubrious, and remarkably even throughout the year, and especially mild in winter when we con- sider the latitude. " The country is rapidly increasing in population, ami it appears to us tkat if our government is ever to construct a naval station in our waters, it will be to its great advantage and in the interest of economy to select the site and acquire the necessarv lands at an early date." The following notice taken of the subject in the governor's re- port is further evidence to the same purport: "A ship canal of less than two miles over an easy route would connect Lakes Union and Washington with the tide waters of Puget sound in Seattle harbor. The project of connecting these lakes by canal with the sound, for naval or other purposes, has been under discussion by the United States government at times since 1870, and it now seems likely that early action will be taken in the premises, as renewed interest in the matter has recently been manifested by public men and engineer officers of the troverument. " 244 SEATTLE — INDUSTRIES. RESORTS — Seattle is connected with Lake Washington by a fine cable road which cost $290,000, the cars of which glide over the summit and down to the lake over a route affording a vast range of vision and a beauty of scenery indescribably grand and beauti- ful. Along the lake and overlooking heights, since the cable-road was completed, are built and building great numbers of elegant private residences, resorts, boat-houses, etc. The natural beauty of the lake and surroundings, its ease of access, to say nothing of its unequalled attractions of hunting, fishing, boating, etc., will soon make this the most frequented resort on the Pacific coast. Natural Industries — The coal, iron, lumber, fishing and hop industry centering at Seattle is immense, and is increasing at a rapid rate. The City — Is amply supplied with water works, good fire de- partment, electric light, telephone, street horse cars and cable roads. Dry Dock — The Seattle Dry Dock and Ship Building Co. have a site on the city front 500x750 feet, with 42 feet of water at high- tide, upon which they are. building a sectional floating dock, 60 feet wide and 200 feet long, or large enough to take in auv of the sound steamers or sailing coasters. The plant will cost $75,000. Near by will be a ship building yard and extensive machine shops which will cost as much more. When these establishments are completed they will be far ahead of anything of the kind on the coast, excepting only San Francisco. Car Shops — The extensive machine shops of the Columbia & Puget Sound and Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern Railroad Ccs. are located here and employ a large number of men. EREOSOTING Works — Are being erected for the treating of timber used for the construction of city wharves, piling, etc. , as the ravages of the teredo make protection absolutely necessary. Lumber Cut-— The Seattle mills and those in the vicinity are the largest on the sound, cutting from 350,000 to 517,000 feet of lumber a day. The latter feat was accomplished by the Port Blakely mill, situated just across the sound, ten miles west of Seattle and in plain view from the city. This mill is the largest on Puget sound. It is not an uncommon thing to see sawed sticks of timber at some of these mills 200 feet long and from two to four feet square. These timbers are sawed expressly for shipment to foreign ports, to save sawed lumber duties, and are sawed into lumber to any required size after arriving at their destination. Connected with the lumber industry, Seattle has ten large lumber manufacturing companies, two planing-mills, three sash, door and blind factories, four ship builders, 11 furniture factories, three box manufacturers, four cabinet makers and two carriage and wagon works. There are three iron foundries, three boiler makers, two flour and feed mills, four breweries, three brick, tile and terra-cotta works, three soap factories, one tannery, two bottlers, one pork and beef packing establishment, two large canneries, packing 15,(100 cases a year, three cigar factories, four nurseries, one theater and two opera houses. Seattle has a Board of Trade, five railroad, two transportation and five large coal companies, that have their principal offices in the city. Six banks and several private bankers are here ready to take charge of your cash; 15 hotels are seeking your patronage; FISHERIES — STEEL WORKS. 245 20 churches are open for your attendance ; several good schools will educate your children; a U. S. land office will sell you land; a signal office will report on the weather; 3(5 real estate agents have "just what you need;" and three daily and five weekly newspapers will keep you posted on the news from all parts of the world — the Post-Intelligencer, Ti)nes and Press, are each daily and weekly; the Star and Die Tribune (German) are weeklies. The Occidental Arlington, New England and the Commercial are the principal hotels; charges grade down from $3 to $1.50 per day. The University of Washington and the Academy of the Holy Name are at Seattle. Here at Seattle is the extreme northwestern terminus of the railroad system of the United States. Parks — Seattle has a generous supply of parks — 12 in number — ranging in size from three to 280 acres each. Fisheries — Besides the large fisheries for canning purposes, which are very large, there are hundreds of men engaged catching salmon, halibut, herring, cod, smelt and other fish for home market; also oysters, but no person brags much of the sound oysters, although we like them very much when rightly served. Thousands of bar- rels of salmon are put up each year for shipment east and to foreign ports. Since the fishery troubles on the northeast coast with Can- ada a number of old Gloucester fishermen have transferred their operations to Puget sound, and several have made Seattle their headquarters, bringing nearly 100 of their old hands with them. They. expect to be able to fish, cut bait, pack and sell without fear or favor from the Canadian government. WEST SEATTLE — A new suburb, is situated just across the bay, west, immediately fronting the city of Seattle, on the Duwamish promontory, a most sightly location, commanding a view up and down the sound for 20 miles, and to the Cascade range on the east and the Olympia mountains on the west. Extensive improvements are being made and it is said it will be the shipping point for the great coal mines of Carbonado — owned by the Southern Pacific Railroad Co. — who will extend a rail-track to this place, bv the time the wharves and docks now building are in a condition to afford facilities for shipping coal. The town company have cleared off a large tract of the table land, laid out streets, avenues and parks, constructed a system of water works, built a fine roadway from the wharves to the town- site above, and with their cable road project in operation and their steam ferry now running regularly, West Seattle promises to be to the city of Seattle what Brooklyn is to the city of New York. STEEL Works — Of all the industries located or proposed to be located at Seattle there are none more important than the great steel works now building four miles from the post-office on the shores of Lake Washington. The site for these works, comprising 3,000 acres, was selected by Mr. Peter Kirk, of the Moss Bay Iron & Steel Works, Cumberland, England, and named "Kirkland." The site selected is most admirably adapted to the purposes in view. It is the nearest navigable point for the Snoqualmie ore- beds, and on the Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern railway. It is said the works will be the most extensive in America, and with one exception the largest in the world. They will embrace all the various branches of steel manufacturing and will employ about 5,000 men. The company have leased the Denny iron 246 DETOUR — BELLINGHAM BAY. mines, situated in the Snoqualmile pass, which are said to show enough micaceous hematite iron-ore in sight to last a century. When these great works are completed and in operation they will alone give employment and support to 20,000 people, around which will cluster many other industries, and we may look to see a population within ten miles of Seattle within the next decade of 150,000. Smelting and Refining Works — Is another enterprise in the hands of a close corporation of California capitalists who pro- pose building at once a plant to cost about $500,000, for smelting and refining gold and silver-ores from the mines on the line of the Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern railway, the Salmon river and from the Cceur D'Alene mines of Idaho. JSJiggrSee under "Olympia" for articles on Washington Territory, climate, lumbering, agriculture, hops, fruit, etc. Connections — Steamers run from or touch at Seattle for all ports on Puget sound and the navigable rivers entering into it. The principal lines are: Tacoma and Olympia daily; Port Townsend and Victoria daily; Oak Harbor and Whatcom daily; Skagit river daily; Port Madison daily; Port Blakely daily; Vashon Island and Shelton three times a week; Port Gamble, Seabeck and Union City three times a week: Mitchel's Point and Port Orchard three times a week; Snohomish City and intermediate points daily; Colby creek route to Colby three times a week". Alaska Route — Steamers leave Seattle on ad- vertised days twice a month for Fort Wrangle, Sitka, Juneau and all Alaska ports. For San Francisco steamers every week. The Rail Routes are via Northern Pacific; Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern, and the Columbia & Puget Sound, double daily. By Stage — Eastward daily, Houghton, seven miles; thence north to Juanita, four miles. Detour — from Seattle to Whatcom — This is a lovely trip, particularly if it should be a moonlight night, as the O. R. & N. steamers — and there are no others — all leave at 9 p. m. The route for most of the way is through narrow inlets or passages be- tween numberless islands, some occupied by settlers, but the many are as wild as created. The accommodations for the comfort and convenience of passengers are all that could be desired; the stops during the night will number just half a dozen before daylight; they are Clinton, Coupeville, Oak Harbor, Utsalady, La Conner and Fidalgo. While taking breakfast we land at Anacortes, a small logging camp. Samish, on Bellingham bay, conies next, another small place, the station for Edison, and Rlanchard's big logging camp. Deception Pass, a very narrow strait between high rocky cliffs, dangerous at all times, but doubly so when there is a high wind and changing tide (at low tide few boats can pass); we passed in the night or gray of morning. It can be seen best on the re- turn trip. ChuckanuT. in the bay of that name, about six miles before Whatcom, is a stone quarry camp, where a mountain of sand- stone crops out just at the water's edge. The stone is a pale blue, soft and easy to work, but hardens with exposure. The stone is used in building the opera house in Tacoma, and is also used in Portland, Seattle and other cities. Bcllillgllillll — On Bellingham bay, once a "booming" coal- mining camp, is now in a high state of decay. This "bay" was for many years the great supply point for coal on the Pacific coast, but a "labor strike" completely killed that industry. So much for a "strike." A hen which cackles over night lays no eggs in the morning. WHATCOM — SEHOME. 247 What com — [Pop., 700].— Settled in 1852. Is the seat of What- com county, situated on a beautiful table-land at the head of Bell- ingham bay, commanding a wide range of vision to the west, north and east. It has a fine water power running through the town, on which are located a large saw-mill and several small factories. The town is reached by a long pier beside which vessels of large tonnage can ride in safety and is one of the best on the sound. Lake Whatcom, the outlet of which runs through the town, is reached three miles east, is a fine body of water 316 feet above the town, is about 15 miles long and from one to three miles in width. Mt. Baker, the snow-capped peak of which is in plain view from Whatcom, is situated due east 85 miles, elevation 10,800 feet. Whatcom contains one bank, four churches, a good graded school, a saw-mill, a furniture factory and two weekly newspapers — the Reveille and Democrat. The Whatcom is the principal hotel. There are a number of general stores and shops of various kinds. Sehome — sometimes called New Whatcom, is situated just on the south side of Whatcom creek, and contains a population of about 160. It has three general stores and several hotels. The table on which are situated the twin Whatcoms was once covered with a forest of heavy timber; some of the smaller trees still remain and many stumps of the larger. The Belliugham Bay & British Columbia Railroad Co. have a road graded from Sehome for 25 miles and the track laid for about half the distance. It is generally supposed to be owned bv the Canada Pacific Co., and will be extended to a connection with their main line at an early day. The round-houses and machine shops are being located at Sehome, where many new buildings are being erected by the town, company and others. Ten thousand — Represented the population that Whatcom contained in 1858, more than the total population of all other places in the Puget sound country combined. On our late visit to Whatcom we were shown by the editor of the Reveille a copy of The Northern Light, Vol. 1, No. 3, dated July 17, 1858; "price, 25 cents per copy." It was filled with advertisements of all kinds similar to those found in many papers of the present time in western cities of 20,000 population. Whatcom was at that time the head of navigation or the outfitting point for tens of thousands of people en route for the Caribou gold mines. When the travel ceased, most of the citizens gathered up their tents and abandoned the town, but at this time Whatcom is again on the high road to prosperity; the country tributary is rich in timber, coal, iron and stone, and where cleared, in agricultural land, pro- ducing wheat, oats, corn, potatoes and varieties of vegetables, but none for shipment, as the settlers are too much occupied in clear- ing off their lands and speculating on the future prosperity of their locality to raise more than enough to supply home consumption. Trusts — In coal and lumber, it is said, has paralysed both kinds of business in Bellingham bay country; very little coal is mined, and no shipments of lumber are made. The "trust" pays a stipu- lated sum per annum to the lumber companies, who formerly shipped lumber, to have them close their mills. So between "labor strikes" and "trusts" the two great indus- tries of this region are paralyzed — dead. 248 FORT AND PORT TOWNSEND. Connections — Mail hack: East, once a week to Geneva, five miles; Woodland, three miles; thence southeast to Park, seven miles; thence north- east to Acme, eight miles. Also from Whatcom mail hack northeast, three times a week, to Yager, ten miles; Roder, six miles; thence northwest to Eynden, eight miles. Also from Whatcom mail hack northwest, three times a week, to Lim- ami, seven miles; thence north to Ferndale, five miles; Custer, eight miles; Briach, five miles; Hillsdale, four miles, and Blain, five miles. Steamers leave Sehome on Thursdays, calling at Beach and Beach Bay; fare, $i. Returning to Seattle, we resume our tour, this time to Her Majesty's dominions. Leaving Seattle at 11 a. m., on one of the elegant steamers of the 0. R. & N., our direction is north up Admiralty inlet. If the sky be clear, the scenic views will be very grand — the tall peaks in the Cascades to the east, and the Olympia range in the west will appear very plain. A run of two and a half hours brings us within view ahead of Port Townsend, with uncle Sam's flag floating to the breeze at the fort, two miles to the left of the town. Another hour and we steam into the harbor of Port ToWIlSeild — [Pop., 3,000; from Seattle, 40 miles; Victoria, B. C, 36 miles]. — Is in Jefferson county, on Port Townsend bay and Admiralty inlet, facing eastward. The business portion of the town is situated on a strip of land about a fourth of a mile wide, between the water of the bay, and a steep bluff which rises 100 feet in height. The residence portion of the city is reached by a dug- way along the side of the bluffs to a beautiful table land above, where are fine streets and some elegant private residences, in the back-ground a forest of timber. Port Townsend is a port-of-entry, where all vessels navigating the American waters must stop and secure a clearance from the revenue office, going and coming. The city has one bank, one steam saw-mill, one planing-mill, one iron works, two good hotels — the Central and Cosmopolitan; two weekly papers — the Argus and Call; four churches and a good district school. The chief industries are lumber and fish. The town contains a number of very good brick and stone business blocks, and stores and shops of all kinds. Fort Townsend — three miles south, is situated in a very com- manding position, 100 feet above the bay, on a table land over- looking the water and country to the eastward for many, many miles. The fort is in command of Capt. A. H. Bainbridge of the 14th Infantry, and garrisoned by Company A. IrondaIvE — Is nearly two miles below the fort, where are located large smelting works for treating the bog-iron ore found in the vicinity. Port Hadeock — just below Irondale, is the site of a mam- moth saw-mill, also at Port Ludlow and Port Discovery. Connections — Mail hack: Southwest, three times a week, to Port Dis- covery, ten miles; thence south, once a week, to Leland, nine miles; Quil- cene, seven miles. Leaving Port Townsend our boat soon rounds Point Wilson promontory and lighthouse, and we are fairly afloat on the broadest portion of Puget sound — 30 miles in width. Crossing the boundary line, midway the distance across the sound, we are in British Columbia, with its beautiful capital in sight in the distance. The Crofutt's Books for twenty years have furnished traveling correspon- dents with about all the data they have used in writing articles for publication in the eastern and foreign newspa'pers. VICTORIA, BRITISH COLUMBIA. 24! I Victoria — [Pop., 15,000]. — The capital of British Columbia; sit- uated on the Straits of Fuca, at the southern extremity of Vancouver island. It is the terminal point for the O. R. & N. sound steam- ers and Pacific Coast Steamship Co. 's San Francisco steamship lines. It is the headquarters of the Canadian Pacific Navigation Co. and the Esquimalt & Nanaimo railway. A friend by our side says: "Find a prettier little city than Vic- toria, if you can. In a situation to command a practically unlim- ited range of vision toward three points of the compass, in a vigor- ous, healthful atmosphere, with well-laid streets, substantial pub- lic buildings and private residences. Fine boulevards diverge in all directions from the city, while the suburbs abound in beautiful grounds and charming prospects." Esquimalt — three miles from Victoria, is the beautiful harbor on which is located the royal naval dockyard, where stores and munitions of war are dealt out to Her Majesty's vessels on the Pacific. It is well worth a visit. Then there is the great flash light at Race Rocks, the finest of its kind in the world; the Fisgard light at the mouth of the bay; the Dungeness light across on the Washington side; the Smith's Island light, 30 miles distant, and an array of lesser luminaries. Victoria contains a great number of fine brick and stone busi- ness blocks, and stores and shops of all kinds. It has a goodly number of churches and schools, banks, mills and miscellaneous manufactories. The private residences are neat and substantial, some very elegant and all surrounded by gardens, orchards and beautiful lawns. There are a great number of hotels, high and low-priced, from the "Poodle Dog house" to the Driard; rated by charges the prin- cipal hotels are Driard, Clarendon and Occidental; charges, from $0 to $3 per day. There are a number of small hotels where the appointments and service are equal to those which charge double the price. One is the new French hotel — European plan — the restaurant is equal to any in the city. The number of excursions which may be made by boat from Victoria is almost without limit. Immediately across the Gulf of Georgia from Nanaimo is Burrard's inlet. Trips may also be taken to Port Moody, New Westminster and Vale, the Charlotte islands, and many other points. With Victoria we end our main tour, and return to Seattle. TO ©L.YMPIA— THE CAPITAL. Side Tour ]*Jo. 1§— From Seattle to Olympia— Tum- WATER AND TENINO TO PORTLAND. The time of departure, usually, of the regular O. R. & N. steamers of this line, is 12:30 p. m. Here our party of six had the only disagreeable experience on the whole tour. Leaving Seattle at 4 p. m., the cloudy weather allowed us little opportunity to view the beautiful scenery known to be on the route. The route from Seattle is via Tacoma and Steilacoom, mid islands, inlets, promontories, bays, coves, and forests of timber on all sides. 2">0 OI.YMPIA — THK FRUITFUL. Landing at the capital city sometime in the night, and as the boat started on there turn trip at 6 a. m., an opportunity was afforded our party for an appetizing walk in the gray of the morning, before breakfast. Olympia — [Pop., 2,6ooj. — Settled in 1852. Is the capital of Washington Territory, and the seat of Thurston county. It is at the extreme head of navigation on Puget sound — situated on a tongue of land extending out into the bay, from which the slope is gradual back for nearly two miles to a wooded ridge. This city — unlike all others on Puget sound — is embowered in foliage. Orch- ards of fruit, beautiful gardens of vines, berries, ornamental shrubs and flowers surround the homes of nearly all the citizens, reminding one of Boise, the beautiful. The early settlers were from the New England states, and immediately after their arrival in this fair land commenced to plant orchards and build homes in that spirit of contentment which says: "We have found our ideal home on earth, in all that makes life worth living for, and here we shall remain during the running out of the sands of time!" In progressive enterprise — viewed from a "boomer's" standpoint — Olvmpia is an "old fogy" town; but for all the comforts and lux- uries of home life, with educated and refined society, good churches and schools, a healthy climate, abundance of fruit, fish and game, convenient to all the great marts of trade on the coast, a crowned queen at the head of the great Mediterranean of America, she stands in her regal robes of green and gold, the "monarch of all she surveys!" The greater portion of the surrounding country tributary to Olvmpia is heavily wooded, with firs and pines on the uplands, and cedar, oak, hemlock and maple on the lowlands. The land when cleared is of the richest and most productive on the sound. Many varieties of berries "run wild" in the vicinity of Olvmpia, particularly blackberries, huckleberries, and strawberries grow in great profusion; of the latter, many attain a circumference of eight inches. We were told some have been found ten inches, but we did not see them. Olvmpia was the first place on the ' 'sound' ' selected for the terminus of the Northern Pacific railroad, but the officers of the company after securing the necessary terminal facilities from Olyin- pia concluded to go into town building for themselves; so after securing all the land required at Tacoma, abandoned Olvmpia and proceeded to "boom" the new Tacoma to its present prominent position among the thrifty cities on Puget sound. The building of projected railroads from the Columbia river and Gray's harbor, and the extending of the Olympia & Chehalis Valley railroad to the coal mines at Bucoda, will elevate Olympia to her rightful position as an important shipping point for lumber, coal and other commodities on the "sound," and tend to create and stimulate established industries to a wonderful extent, besides placing the city on the great highway of travel between the most productive lower and upper countries. Apples, pears, plums, cherries, strawberries, raspberries, black- berries and currants are raised in almost every enclosure about the homes of the Olympians, and shade trees of maple, cypress, pine, fir, mountain ash and spruce adorn their grounds. Their business blocks are large and substantial, many of brick and stone; their WASHINGTON "ROUND UP." 1')\ private residences are elegant, cozy and tantalizingly inviting, par- ticularly to one almost tired of life and the hum-drum of business. The long wharf, extending out into the bay from the "tongue" • of land on which Olympia is situated, affords a landing place, at low tide, for vessels drawing about 18 feet of water. The city contains, among its prominent buildings, the capitol, county court and city hall, Masonic, Odd Fellows and Good Templars' halls, and the Providence academy, six churches and am- ple school accommodations, one bank, one k-rge saw-mill, one shingle mill, one wood pipe and one patent water-pipe manufac- tory and stores and shops of all kinds. The city has a Board of Trade and contains the offices of the governor, secretary and surveyor-general of the territory, and a U. S. signal office. Of hotels, there are just half a dozen, chief of which are the Carlton, Columbia and Young's; charges from $3 down to $1.50 per day; free "carry-all" to boats and trains. Three weekly newspapers are published at Olympia — the Courier, Standard and New Transcript. Connections — By rail: Olympia & Chehalis Valley railroad, and by steam- boats to all points oh Puget Sound. By mail stage — Daily for Tumwater, three miles; thence southwest to Little Rock, 12 miles; Oakville, 15 miles; thence northwest to Cedarville, four miles; Sharon, five miles; Ki.ma, eight miles; thence west to Satsop, four miles; Montesano, six miles; Wynooche, one mile; Melboen, two miles; Cosmopolis, ten miles; Aberdeen, three miles, and Hoquiam, four miles; also, from Olympia, mail hack westward twice a week to Kamilche. 18 miles; Summit, nine miles; and Elma, eight miles; also from Olympia by boat to Arcadia, 14 miles; thence west by stage three times a week, to Shelton, nine miles; thence north to Oakland, five miles; Skokomish, 12 miles; thence, once a week to Dewato, eight miles; Seabeck, 20 miles; thence three times a week to Port Gamble. 21 miles. From Skokomish — Mail hack east, three times a week to Clifton, 14 miles; thence twice a week to Sidney', 13 miles. Washington Territory— Before leaving the capital it may be well to take a hasty glance at its chief resourses. 8'sisjet Sound — Is a great deep inland sea, extending nearly 200 square miles from the ocean, having a surface of about 2,000 square miles, and a shore line of about 1,594 miles, indented with numerous bays, harbors and inlets, each with its peculiar name, and contains numerous islands inhabited hy farmers, lumbermen, herdsmen and those engaged in quarrying lime and building stone. Admiral Charles Wilkes has described this pride of Wash- ington Territory as follows: Nothing can surpass the beauty of these waters and their safety. Not a shoal exists within the Straits of Juan de Fuca, Admiralty bay, or Hood's canal that can in any way interrupt their navigation by a seventy-four-gun ship. I ven- ture nothing in saying that there is no country in the world that possesses waters equal to these; they cover an area of about 2,000 square miles; the shores of all its inlets and bays are remarkably bold, so much so that a ship's side w.nild strike the shore before her keel would touch the ground. The country by which these waters are surrounded is remarkably salubrious and affords every advantage for the accommodation of a vast commercial and military marine, with convenience for docks, and a great many sites for towns and cities, at all times well supplied with water, and capable of being well pro- vided with everything by the surrounding country, which is well adapted for agriculture. The Straits of Juan de Fuca are 95 miles in length and have an average width of 1 1 miles. At the entrance (eight miles in width) no danger exists, and it may be safely navigated throughout. No part of the world affords finer inlands, sounds, or a greater number ot harbors than are found within the Straits of Juan de Fuca, capable of receiving the largest class of vessels and without a danger in them that is not visible. From the rise and fall of the tide (18 feet), every facility is afforded for the erection of works for a great maritime nation. The country also affords as many sites for water-power as any other. TERRITORIAL RESOURCES. Assessed value of Washington — The value of all taxable property in the territory for 1888 was $84,621,182. The values of six of the largest counties were as follows: King, $15,016,795; Pierce, $14,021,842; Spokane, $7,212,509; Whitman, $7,084,74"); Walla Walla, $6,754,94(1; and Columbia, $2,825,000. U. S. Land — For the year ending June 30th, 1888, original homestead entries, 312,740 acres; timber culture entries, 89,264 acres; cash entries, 133,803 acres; pre-emption filings, 359,643 acres; coal land entries, 18,720 acres; desert land entries, 24,000 acres; timber land entries, 85,600 acres. In the same time the Northern Pacific railroad company sold 268,700 acres, for which they received the sum of $1,292,473.30. Railroad Mileage — The total railroad mileage in Washing- ton Territory up to June 30, 1888, was 1,197 miles, of which the Northern Pacific operated 762 miles, and the Oregon Railway cc Navigation Co. 282 miles. Coal — There are 11 great coal mines in Washington being worked. The production of these mines for the year ending June 30, 1888, was as follows: FIRST INSPECTION DISTRICT. SECOND INSPECTION DISTRICT. Tons. Tons. Bucoda 49,i6o Franklin 182,921 South Prairie 36,149 Black Diamond 186,522 Wilkinson 2,300 j New Castle 158,134 Carbon Hill 20.5,702 : Cedar Mountain 52.813 Tacoma, at Wilkins 14,371 : Roslyn 134,201 ' Gilraan 13, 528 Total tons 305,682 Total tons 828,119 Grand total, 1,133,801— an increase over 1887 of 608,096 tons. Gold and silver— There are three prominent mining districts in the territory — the Ruby, Salmon river and Galena. A large amount of work is being done in these districts, but no reliable data was obtainable. Iron — Is found in immense quantities in King county near Lake Washington and in Jefferson county near Ironton. Limber — The forests of Washington Territory seem to"be limit- less, extending from the Columbia river on the south to British Columbia on the north, and comprise the finest body of timber in the world. The principal woods are pine, spruce, cedar, fir and hemlock, with white oak, ash and maple for second place in quan- tity. Large tracts of these lands, it is said, will produce 31 1,000 feet of lumber to the acre. There are 97 saw-mills in the territory, which are estimated to have cut 1,043,596,000 feet of lumber during the last year, loading 398 vessels. The amounts shipped to foreign countries were as follows: Lumber, 43, 133, 732 feet; lath, 3,686,435 number; shingles, 4,741,500 number. Of this amount the Port Blakely mills furnished 17 cargoes, or 10,675,814 feet. Banking capital — There are 26 national banks in the terri- tory and 11 savings and private banks, aggregating a capital of $1,152,834. In addition, there are 12 banks and bankers who refused information. Fish, etc. — The principal food fishes of the Puget sound are salmon (hook-jawed), halibut, cod (true, black and tom-cod), rock- fish, 28 varieties; smelt and herring. Mountain or brook trout abound in all the streams coining down from the mountains. TERRITORIAL RESOURCES. 253 Oysters, clams and mussels are abundant in the sound waters. There are a number of clam canneries at different places on the Sound. Indians — The total Indian population in Washington Territory number 11,000 with 17 reservations. Of this number probably not more than three-fifths live on the reservations, while the remain- ing two-fifths either roam about or have homes of their own on homesteads or land purchased by them, or in villages near white settlements. They are generally peaceable, quiet, law-abiding and and measurably industrious. Agricultural Productions — East of the Cascades wheat is the chief production, average yield, 25 bushels to the acre; barley and oats hold second and third places. Fruit of many varieties is raised; also potatoes, sorghum, corn, hops, melons, grapes, tobacco and all the varieties of vegetables. Irrigation is seldom resorted to, but could be successful if required to raise crops. On the Puget sound slopes grasses, oats and root crops do ex- ceedingly well; four tons of hay to the acre are common. The country bordering the sound will produce every variety of grain, fruit and vegetables grown in the temperate zone, and in great abundance. Hops is one of the most profitable crops raised on Puget sound. They have acquired a rating equal to any raised in the world; the crop is often contracted for in England before it is harvested. Puyallup and White river valleys contain the principal hop fields. A low estimate of the yield of hops is 1,500 pounds to the acre, though exceptional cases are recorded to double that amount. Taking ten years together and the average price is 20 cents per pound; they have been as low as seven cents and as high as one dollar. The Puget sound hop crop for 1888 amounted to 7,350,000 pounds valued at 20 cents per pound, $1,470,000. It is claimed the cost of raising hops is about eight cents per pound. Taking 1,500 pounds as the minimum at the average price of 20 cents, §30(1 per acre will pay much better than book making, and we would like to "swap" works. Indians do about all the hop picking on the sound, many of them coming every year in the picking season all the way from British Columbia for that purpose, and when the season is over they can be seen by hundreds coming into Seattle in their peculiar gondola-nosed boots, and, after purchasing winter supplies, push off onto the sound with their load of wife, babies, dogs and provision for home again, as happy apparently as the same number of Vassar college sophomores at a pic-nic. Climate, in the Puget Sound country, an old settlers savs, is one of "etheral mildness." Snow in the low lands is almost un- known, and ice is made by machinery; the mercury in summer for 16 years never went above 99° and seldom above 80°. In winter it seldom falls more than eight or ten degrees below freezing point, and has never been known to reach zero in the history of the country since its settlement, nearly 40 years ago. The number of rainy days for the same period varied from 134 to LSI a year, and included all days on which any rain at all fell within the 24 hours, and every day on which even a slight shower fell. The greatest rainfall for the period was 67 inches; the least 38 inches; making a mean average of 52 inches a year. 254 WAGES AND WIND. gilrThe records from which the above is a synopsis were kept at Olympia, the capital, and can be found in full in the governor's report to the Secretary of the Interior. The following table compiled for the governor's last annual report, gives the schedule of WAGES Paid for various kinds of labor in the territory. PER DAY. PER DAY. Carpenters >_>.so to 4.00 Boat builders 3.00 Machinists 3.00 to 4.00 Plumbers 3.00 Sign painters 3.00103.50 Tailors 3.50 Boilermakers 3.00] per month. Tinsmiths 3-°o Mill hands 530.00 to 125.00 Longshoremen 4.00 Stone and marble cutters 3.50 Plasterers 4.00 Gun and locksmiths 3.00 Roustabouts 1.75 to 2.00 Coal miners (shift work).. 2.50 Coal miners (by the yard) 3.00 to 4.00 Mechanical engineers 3.00 to 4.00 Bricklayers 4.50 to 6.00 Bakers 60.00 Farm laborers 25.00 to 30.00 PER DAY. Molders 3.25 Pattern makers 3.50 Loggers PER MONTH. Teamsters $65.00 to 125.00 Choppers 60.00 to 80.00 House painters 3.00 , Skidders, hook tenders„5o.oo to 75.00 Shoemakers 2.50 Swampers 45.00 Blacksmiths 3.00103.50 Sawyers 50.00 to 65.00 Day laborers 2.25 Common laborers 35.00 to 40.00 Gasfitters 3- 00 ' Boys 25.00 Upholsterers 2.00 ; Cooks 35.00 to Chinook Wind — From an article on tbis subject by the Hon. Eugene Seniple, Governor of Washington Territory, we make a few extracts: "Winds coming from different quarters and possessing various characteristics, were named by the Indians after the coun- tries whence they appeared to come. "The east wind, that drying or chilling wind, according to the season, that blows down the Columbia river with great force some- times, was called by them the Walla Walla wind, because it came to them from the direction of the Walla Walla country. In the winter this wind brings freezing weather, and sometimes will close the streams with ice. In the summer it is a parching wind, and its approach can be noted for long distances as it lifts the dust and debris high in the air. It is an odious wind, and no one wishes it to blow upon him. Fortunately its reign is always short. It rarely prevails for more than a few hours, but will sometimes continue for three or four days. "Its enemy is the Chinook wind, so-called by the Indians alluded to above, because it came to them from the direction of the country of the Chinooks. This is a balmy wind, coming from the Kuro vSiwo, or great Japanese current of the Pacific ocean. In the sum- mer it is a cool wind, and tempers the heat of summer so that nowhere in Washington Territory do people fall down with sun- strokes. In the winter it is a warm, moist wind, and is some- times slightly odoriferous, as if spice-laden from the tropics. It is so gentle upon ordinary occasions that its presence could not be noted by its motion, and it is almost miraculous in its effects. Snow and ice disappear before it with rapidity, and it seems to bs able to blow for long distances between walls of colder air with- out parting with its heat. Sometimes it constitutes an upper current, in which case the remakable spectacle is witnessed of snow melting from the mountain tops while thermometers in the valleys register below the freezing point. At other times it is the surface current, and follows the valleys and gorges as a flood might follow them. "This wind sometimes penetrates as far as the upper stretches of the Missouri. Wherever it goes the chains of winter are unloosed, SOUTHWARD BOUND. 255 and the ice-bound rivers are set free. The Chinook is the natural enemy of the odious east wind, and while ordinarily it wields its influence as gently as the zephyrs that waft the thistle downs in autumn, still there are times when the two winds engage in giant conflicts and fight for supremacy, now in the upper, then in the lower strata, on the mountains and in the valleys, alternately driving each other back and forth, swaying the trees, tossing the leaves, and swirling the rain drops or the crystals of snow, as the one or the other advances. But the combat is never long, and the victory is always with the Chinook. The inhabitants east of the Cascade mountains, when winter has seized them and the east wind dashes snow in their faces, pray for the Chinook to come. They look by day for its moist front, and listen by night for the noise of its combat with the east wind, and when it reaches them they rejoice. Such is the Chinook wind, the blessed wind of the far northwest. ' ' Leaving Olympia, we take the cars of the Olympia & Chehalis Valley railroad (narrow gauge), at 7 o'clock in the morning. The depot is on the west side of the inlet, one mile distant. The main line of this road is 16 miles in length to Teuino; the branches for timber add six to the mileage. The first station is two miles distant, called Tumwatcr— meaning in the Chinook language, cataract — waterfall — is situated in a narrow valley, just at the falls of De Chutes river. Settled in 1845. It has a very valuable water-power, on which is located a flour-mill, three saw-mills and several small factories. The De Chutes river has a fall of 82 feet, within a few hundred yards, discharging about 50,000 cubic feet of water a minute in the driest season. The place has a population of about 25i). most of whom are engaged in the lumbering business. There are several stores here and one church, and a district school. Tuniwater is the oldest settlement in Washington, and is really the head of navigation for any craft, and Olympia for those of heavy tonage. Until the Northern Pacific railroad was com- pleted to Tacoma, Tumwater was on the through line of travel between Portland and Puget sound. Following up the De Chutes river there is no station of note, and only a few clearings, where are located a few settlers. The whole country, with the exceptions above noted, is heavily wooded; in some places the large trees have been cut off and a vigorous young growth is rising from the sod. The wood is prin- cipally spruce, pine, fir, oak, hemlock and maple. Mounds — Within a short distance of the end of the road are the noted "Tenino Mounds." They are round buttes or mounds varying in height to ten feet, and in diameter to 25 feet; whether natural or artificial is a problem yet undecided by the scientists, who have had the question up for consideration at various times for many years. Governor Squires says of these mounds: "Many believe them to be artificial. That they are natural may be demonstrated by careful examination on the spot. If the distribution of the materials of which they are composed be exam- ined, these facts will be found: First, that in all those mounds near Tenino three kinds of material enter into their composition — the upper portion of every one of these contained a large share of vegetable mold, rich and dark of color; the middle portion a sandv loam, the base clay and gravel, or clay and boulders. 256 UP THE COLUMBIA. "These three are so graduated into each other as to make it im- possible to believe they were ever heaped or sifted into their pres- ent relations to each other, but easy and natural to believe that the succession in which they stood was due to the same causes that made a like distribution in the fields around them. No artificial heaping could imitate this. But again, the whole cloth out of which these mounds were carved is yet to be seen in their neighborhood. "And again, the thickness of these uncarved portions varies in different places, and the height of the mounds of the place always corresponds with the thickness of this uncarved portion of the strata; higher mounds from thicker strata, smaller mounds from thinner strata. They are, therefore, not artificial. But may they not be due to eddies in currents of water? No, there is no touch of stratification such as water leaves. If any one will compare those of Teuino with those of Wasco count}-, in Oregon, on the north slopes of the hills, six or eight miles from The Dalles and plainly due to atmospheric agencies, the Tenino ones will seem explained." Arriving at Tenino we board the cars on the Northern Pacific and return to Portland, and take a rest before starting on the last, shortest and. grandest tour of all others; and if you ever visit the North Pacific coast, you should not fail to make it. The magnifi- cent scenery is worth a trip around the world to behold. HOMEWARD BOUND VIA STEAMER TO THE DALLES. Side Tour Xo. 19 — From Portland to Fort Vancouver, Rooster Rock, Cape Horn, Cascade Locks to The Dalles, by steamer. Leaving Portland, via the O. R. & N. steamer, at 6 o'clock in the morning, the route is the same as in Tour No. 17, to the mouth of the Willamette river, where the boat turns to the right, up the Columbia river. The country on each side is under a high state of cultivation, and dotted with farm houses, surrounded with orchards of fruit. A number of saw-mills are located along the river and several fisheries. Vancouver — [Pop., 2,500]. — Settled in 1826 by the employes of the Hudson Bay Fur Co., and incorported in 1862. By steamer it is 18 miles from Portland and seven miles by ferry and rail. The city occupies a beautiful site on the north side of the Colum- bia river, in Clarke county, of which it is the seat. It was here the first Catholic missions were established on the North Pacific coast, and is still the headquarters for that denomination. The Holy Angels' college, a fine institution of learning, is located here. Besides the Catholic, there are five other churches, several good schools, one bank, one theatre, and a large hall, a flour-mill, sev- eral saw-mills, a pipe company, U. S. land office, a number of hotels — the Exchange and Vancouver are the principal ones — and two weekly papers, the A'egisterand Independent. VANCOUVER — EASTWARD. 2o7 Connections — Ferry and rail to Portland, six times a day; steamer twice a day. Also by mail hack, north, three times a week to Union Bridge:, 14 miles; thence east to Pioneer, five miles; thence northward to I,a Centre, four miles; Pekin, three miles; Woodland, three miles, and Kalama, nine miles. Also northeast twice a week to Brush Prairie, ii miles; Hockinson, four miles; Battle Ground, six miles; Levvisville, four miles, and Amboy, ten miles. Also eastward, once a week, to Proebestel, 12 miles. From La Centre — Mail hack, northeast to Etna, eight miles; thence once a week to Hay's, four miles. Vancouver Barracks — At Vancouver is located the mili- tary headquarters of the Department of the Columbia, with officers' quarters, barracks and storehouses. The reservation occupies one section of land — 640 acres— adjoining the city on the east. It is a beautiful place, being considered by army officers the most desirable of all stations to which they could be assigned. The post is in command of Col. T. M. Anderson, 14th Infantry. It is the headquarters field, staff, band an»d companies B, C, D, E, F, G and H, of the 14th, and light battery E, 1st Artillery. From the boat the view of the post is best after steaming half a mile away from the landing. The back country is well settled and well cultivated, prunes be- ing an important production. Wheat, hay, oats, fruit and dairying are the principal industries. Improved land along the river is held at $50 per acre. Some government land, back from the river, remains to be taken. La Camas — [Pop., 600; from Vancouver, 14 miles]. — Here are lo- cated a large paper mill, saw-mill and flour-mill, using water power. To reach the landing the boat runs half a mile up a narrow inlet, and afterwards returning to the river. Connections — By steamer; Daily up and down the river; by mail hack, north, twice a week, to Fern Prairie, three miles. WasllOUgal — [Pop., ioo; from Portland, 36 miles]. — Is a small farm- ing community on the Washington side, about opposite the mouth of Sandy river. Two stores, saw-mill, apiary and dairymen comprise the place. Connections — By steamer; Daily up and down the river, and by mail hack, northeast, twice a week to Skye, nine miles. Up to this place the country on both sides of the river has been more or less level and occupied by farmers, fruit-growers, dairy- men and small industries. We can now bid them all "good-by" for the balance of the Tour. Our route now is between the great walls of the Cascade range of mountains, which rise in places sheer from the water's edge 3,000 feet. The railroad track follows along the bank of the river on the Oregon side all the way to The Dalles, the train passing in plain view from the boat, as it goes dodging in and out of tunnels, over high trestle bridges, thundering around the point of a rocky spur on the eyebrow of the tall cliff, then into a thicket of evergreen, to appear in a little park or clearing, to be repeated again and again. At times not a sound can be heard, everything being as still as death; in another moment the grand old gorge will thun- der with a terrific roar from the engine, to be echoed and re-echoed a thousand times as it passes from peak to peak and gorge to gorge, rattling around the gray old crags. When a stranger in this locality hears for the first time this great hubub, the conclusion is immediately reached that a terrific storm is impending, and its choicest park of artillery had been let loose as an advance courier. 258 WONDKRS THICK AND FAST. Our boat seldom touches the Oregon shore, but makes many stops on tlie Washington side. Thi; Columbia — Putting scenery and everything else aside you find in the Columbia a river, in breadth and impressiveuess, the peer of the Mississippi — a river whose channel through the Cascade mountains stupefies you with an in forced sense of antiquity and power. 15 v the slow attrition of water upon stone, it has sawed a mountain chain asunder, and the dissevered peaks, many of them eternally snow-capped, tower thousands of feet in height on either hand. Perhaps the best view possible of Mt. Hood is obtained in passing up the river and through this gigantic canon. At Van- couver and then again just above Hood river, the mountain seems to stand out as prominently as if alone, at certain seasons, pure white from base to summit, worshiped by its kneeling foot-hills. WONDERFUL CAPE HORN. 259 Rooster Rock — Soon after leaving Washougal our boat steams along opposite this noted rock. It stands at the extremity of a heavily-wooded point, and in the crevices around its base and half-way up good-sized firs are growing. Yes! and one has secured a foot-hold near the very summit. The rock is of basaltic formation, with innumerable cracks and crevices from base to summit, in which ferns, vines and mosses thrive wonderfully. "Rooster Rock" is a fowl name, and many of the river "skip- pers" say it should be changed; others claim the name is very appropriate, but decline to explain further.!?) Near the Rooster are Lateourell falls, up a cafion. The drop is 400 feet, and were they the only falls on the river they would attract many visitors, but the}' constitute a beautiful babe beside its elephantine brothers. Cape Horn comes now in view on the left. It is an object of much interest on the Columbia river and can be viewed best from the boat. It is a bold, sharp promontory of basaltic forma- tion, like all others on the Columbia, and rises for a first lift 285 feet sheer from the water, where it is but 30 feet in width. On the west side firs, pines, maples and shrubs giow in great profusion, extending upward and backward to the summit of the supporting mountain 1,385 feet above the river. Cape Horn derives its name from the danger in passing it. It is said the Wind vSpirit lies in wait for canoes and other small craft, keeping them weather-bound for days together. The narrow channel of the river, the over- hanging cliffs which confine the wind as in a funnel, and the changes in temperature to which even in summer this locality is subject, make this a stormy passage at certain seasons of the year. The whole "cape" is creviced in a most remarkable manner, much like a ' 'crazy quilt, ' ' and excepting in the most exposed places, almost every crack and crevice support the roots of mosses, ferns, vines and countless varieties of flowers. From hundreds of these fissures, at certain seasons, gush sparkling streams of water, some are mere threads, others equal to an ordinary garden hose in dis- charge, falling and tumbling frem summit to base, presenting a mountain of brilliant cascades. Cape Horn is a marvelous curiosity. Should you conclude to make this tour select the steamer MulTonomah and interview Capt. Pillsbury; speak to him kindly and he will point out to you the principal objects of interest on the river, many of which we have not the space to even name. We are under many obligations to him for kind courtesies on our late tour, and hereby nominate him for commodore of the O. R. & N. Co's. fleet. The landing for Cape Horn is just above the cliffs and is a good place to stop over for a study. The scenery from this point is beyond mortal pen to describe. It is worth circumnavigating the world to view. [See large viezv No. j. ) 'Mid all the most magnificent scenic views in the world, particu- larly in this western country, "business" crops out on all sides, as instanced in the building of a flume four miles in length on the Oregon side of the river opposite, for the purpose of "shooting" cordwood from the summit of the mountain to the bank of the river. A good field-glass brings the whole plan of operation into plain view. Br idae Veie Faee is nearly opposite Cape Horn. I Seepage 228. J 260 THE COLUMBIA FOREVER. & : / 1 ^AnHEI»/-r (0 RT/(R l, p-g .■'%.u^„_^==~ .- is*- ,:,. Butf4ls\N,y.£ ENTERING THE PALISADES OF T HE COLUMBIA, FROM THE WEST. Lone Rock is passed soon after leaving Cape Horn. It sticks its black nose up from the middle of the river, a lone sentinel standing as a perpetual protest against the erosive tendency of the waters. Mui/tonomah Faels appear on the south side, and Horsetaie one-fourth of a mile below. (See Main Tour, page 228). MARVELOUS SCENERY. 261 The Cascade Range derives its name originally from the great number of beautiful cascades which pour out of almost every ravine and crevice of the mountains, many times from the very summit, presenting in the sun's rays a grand constellation of glit- tering jewels. Where the Columbia cuts its way through these mountains the walls rise in one place sheer 3,100 feet from the water. At all times not less than 25 beautiful cascades are to be seen when pass- ing through the Cascade range, and in the springtime they can be counted away up into the thousands. Some of these in their fall from the heights are lost in spray before they reach the river below while others come pouring down over the cliff over a thousand feet above in one unbroken sheet. Many of these falls would pre- sent at a distance the appearance of a mountain glacier were it not for the fine sheets of spray, which are wafted by the winds in clouds hundreds of feet away. A day spent in climbing to the summit of one of the highest peaks near the Multouomah falls repaid us by a view never to be forgotten. The most magnificent views of earthly scenery are presented from this point. High mountain peaks, covered with perpetual snow, are to be seen in all directions. Among these peaks the most notable are Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier, Mt. St. Helens and the Three Sisters. The sight is grand beyond description. At places, the country viewed with a glass looks barren and worthless except for a stock-range, and the waters move sluggishly towards the sea. At others the country presents the most beautiful appearance with gardens, orchards, vineyards, crops and herds — a perfect elysium. Again, it is cov- ered with a thick forest of heavy timber; or, the broad, rich bottom lauds are awaiting the husbandman to yield a thousand-fold the seed sown. Then again we look down onto the Columbia nearly 3,000 feet, a narrow channel apparently not wider than your hand. Here the fantastic rocks, peaks, spires, domes and pinnacles; dark and dismal gorges and fearful chasms, are bewildering, awe-inspir- ing, indescribable. Make the climb, and our word for it, the vision engraved on the tablet of memory will ever remain — growing brighter as the head grows grayer. CASTLE Rock — As we approach the lower end of the rapids we find that, at the left, the heights recede and inclose a strip of level sandy land, in the midst of which stands a solitary mountain called "Castle Rock" 854 feet in height, surmounted with pines, firs, shrubs, vines and flowers. Orchards of fruit are now to be seen on the left in the midst of which peep out the little cottage of the settler. These people are clearing away the forest, and it will not be long before broad acres of grain will cover the slopes where are now but a few dwellers. In a cove near Castle Rock is a camp of Chinese engaged in catching sturgeon, drying, packing and shipping the fish to China. The Warren Salmon cannery now can be seen on the Oregon side, and their big wheel for catching fish. These wheels, as we have before explained, are operated by the current of water rushing against the paddles which are provided with a bucket or trough on the down stream side of the paddle board. The fish in their rush up stream drop into these troughs, and the wheel revolving takes 262 AROUND THE CASCADES. them up, water and all, and empties into a long flume through which water and fish are carried to the cannery, and the work of cleaning, dressing and preparing the fish for market is commenced. It is rather a novel way to catch fish, but then the salmon when on a run up stream in the spring is a veritable fool fish, exposing himself to all sorts of danger without the least regard for safety. Lower Cascades or Cascades — Settled in 1852,by a Mr. Ham- ilton, is situated on Hamilton island, and is the ^eat of Skamania county, 63 miles from Portland by the river, and 47 from The Dalles. At this place all passengers, freight, etc., going up or down the river are transferred from boat to rail, and vice versa. A floating dock upon which is a depot and warehouse is anchored between the boat and the track of a railroad which extends the length of the island (six miles) to the Upper Cascades, where another transfer is made in like manner — a boat running regularly between the Upper Cascades and The Dalles; distance, 41 miles. BoNNEvmE, the regular mail station on the railroad, is situ- ated nearly opposite the Lower Cascades landing. Taking a seat in the little narrow gauge cars, we are soon whirled along through the timber to the upper end of the island. Just before reaching it, a high butte appears on our right, close to the track. Upon this butte stands the old blockhouse, heretofore referred to as the one occupied in early days by Gen. Sheridan. In passing over the railroad from the lower to the upper trans- fer, and at the latter, many beautiful views are afforded of the falls and rapids of the Cascades, of the work being done by the govern- ment on the big lock, of the hamlet and station of Cascade Locks on the south side of the river, and the towering mountain wall beyond. It is a grand picture. Upper Cascades — Here we leave the cars and step on board of the steamer, and when the transfer of passengers and freight is complete, we steam onward. The river widens out again in a lake- like expanse, made picturesque with islands and handsomely wooded shores, and the further we get away from the heart of the mountains the more marked is the change in the surroundings. Hood River — a little settlement on the main line of the rail- road, where we have been before, now appears in view. Passing it, our boat hugs the Washington side of the river, and a beautiful view of Mt. Hood is obtained, so near does it seem that we can see the glistening of the snow where its cliffs reflect the sun. Grand Amphitheatre — About five miles after passing Hood river our boat rounds a sharp promontory and enters on the right a small bay, from which rises a grand amphitheatre of cliffs to the height of fully 1,500 feet. In places the wall rises sheer 500 feet, then a terrace with a thick growth of trees, shrubs and vines, and then another sheer lift of 500 feet, to be again repeated by terraces, trees, etc. The rail-track runs close to the water's edge in places, tunnel- ing and cutting through great rocky spurs which shoot down to the river, inclosing as many little parks between, some of which are occupied by settlers with neat little homes surrounded with orchards and meadows. To our left are a number of beautiful THE END. 263 little islands bey ond which . on the Washington side rise huge dikes of rock extending up the mountain side diagonally from the water's edge, sheer and uniform lifts from 100 to 500 feet on our side, on the other a slooing grassy table, with scattering trees and shrubs. Firs have now entirely Qisappeared while scattering spruce and pine have taken their places. The climate also is changed, and a dryness and warmth quite different from the western climate ia observable. On Hearing The Dalles the country opens out more and more, the terraced appearance continuing quite to that city, and the basalt here presenting a columnar formation. For the last three miles the stream is compressed between the rocky walls to a narrow channel and runs with more velocity than at auv place below. The boat landing is just below the railroa' i tracks, and the depot at the Umatilla house. History!— Only a little bit. Capt. Gray, of the British Navy, first discovered the Columbia river May 14, 1792, and named it after his ship, the Columbia. Capt. Boughtou, of the ship Chat- ham, first ascended the river as far as where Vancouver is now sit- uated and took possession of the river and country in the name of His Britannic Majesty on the loth of October, 1792. Capts. Lewis and Clarke started from Washington in the spring of 1804, to explore the trans-Rocky mountain country and the northwest coast. Jfe^ From the latest Congressional news the prospects are favorable for Washington and Montana Territories to soon be- come clothed with statehood — a right which they have long been entitled to demand. 264 EASTERN OFFICES. A. H. PRIDE, Gen. Eastern Agent, 409 Broadway, New York. F. H. MELENDY, New England Pass. Agent, 5 State St., Boston, Mass. H. A. GROSS, Trav. Pass. Agent, 29 Center Square, Lancaster, Pa. E. B. SPAIN, Trav. Pass. Agent, 46 Exchange Street, Buffalo, N. Y. J. H. MORLEY, Canadian Pass. Agent, 69 Yonge St., Toronto, Ont. C. TRAVER, Trav. Pass. Agent, Room 14, Clinton Block, Columbus, O. F. M. SNAVELY, Trav. Pass. Agent, 224 Bank St., Cleveland, O. W. H. GUERIN, Michigan Pass. Agt., 155 Jefferson, Avenue, Detroit, Michigan. A. H. WAGGENER, Trav. Pass. Agent, 7 Jackson Place Indianapolis, Indiana. Ffrf'l V V JIM TJfil j s £35 OVER 7,000 MILES Of steel track in Illinois, Iowa, Wisconsin, Michigan, Minnesota, Nebraska, Dakota and Wyoming, penetrates the Agricultural, Mining and Commercial Centres of the WEST -'NORTHWEST The Unrivaled Equipment of the Line embraces Sumptuous Dining Cars, New Wagner and Pullman Sleepers, Supurb day Coaches and FAST VESTIBULED TRAINS Running direct between Chicago, St. Paul and Minneapolis, Council Bluffs and Omaha, connecting for Portland, Denver, San Francisco and all Pacific Coast Points, ONLY LINE TO THE BLACK HILLS For Tickets, Rates, Maps, Time Tables and full information, apply to any Ticket Agent or address the Gen'l Passenger Agent, Chicago, 111. J. M. 'WHITMAN, H. C. WICKER, E. P. WILSON, General Manager. Traffic Manager. Oen'l Pass. Agt. WESTERN OFFICES. S. B. JONES, City Pass. Agt., 62 Clark St., Chicago, 111. W. N. BABCOCK, Gen'l Western Agt., 1401 Famam St., Omaha, Neb. H. WHEELER, Gen'l Agt., 8 Winsdor Hotel Block, Denver, Col. J. H YOUNG, Trav. Pass. Agt., Salt Lake City, Utah. E. A. HOLBROOK, Gen'l Traffic Agent, 2 New Montgomery St., San Francisco, Cal. H. C ECKENBERGER, Gen'l Agt., 4 Washington St., Portland, Ore. WTS TO* i^-x v -' j - •a,/' >i. £-/" \) SSkl ■O'^i', ^,/rX' Jil^ \' •C^* V ■J^^rStS. ■» '^^SS, vwk '^r /"^siw ^ M : ^? O ^ VSJi *3$ x~*3 BUSINESS DIRECTORY. AGENTS Insurance. KNIGHT, FRYE & MILLS, Tacoma, Washington. See large view No. 6; Tours No. i. AGENTS Real Estate. THORNBURY & HUDSON, Real Estate Agents, office of Eastern Oregon Land Co.; 6oo,oco acres of unim- proved land for sale. Office for East End addition of Dalles City; 500 town lots and 40 five acre lots for sale. Rooms 7 and S, Land Office Building, The Dalles, Oregon. AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS. FIFIELD, S. G. Dealer in Agricultural Implements, Wagons, Buggies, Hacks, Carts, Etc. Court street, op- posite new Court House, Pendleton, Oregon. FILLOON BROS. Dealers in Agricultural Implements, and every variety of vehicles. Nos. 253 to 257 Second street, The Dalles, Oregon. PENDLETON HARDWARE AND IMPLEMENT CO. Importers of Agricultural Implements, Heavy and Shelf Hardware, Stoves, Ranges, Etc. Under the Pen- dleton Hotel, Pendleton, Oregon. STAVER & WALKER, New Market Block, Portland, Oregon. See large view No. 5; Tours No. 1. BANKS National. CITY NAT. BANK, Lawrence and Sixteenth street, Denver, Col. Eastern and Foreign Exchange. FIRST NAT. BANK, Hailey, Idaho Ter. Capital, $100,- 000. W. B. F'arr, President; J. M. Burkett, Cashier. MERCHANTS' NAT. BANK, Seattle, Washington. See on large view, No. 5. PACIFIC NAT. BANK. See large view,No-4; Tours No.! UNION NAT, BANK AND SAFE DEPOSIT VAULTS, Salt Lake City, Utah. General banking busi- ness. BANKERS. DEXTER, HORTON & CO., Seattle, Washington. Incorporated, capital stock. $200,000; surplus and un- divided profits, $60,000. BOARD OF TRADE. SEATTLE BOARD— See large view No. 6; Tours No. 1. BOOKS Publishers. SMITH & CO., H. J., Nos. 341 to 351 Dearborn street, Chicago, 111., and No. 249 South Sixth street, Philadel- phia, Pa., Publishers Crofutt's New Series Overland Tours. Two volumes, designated No. 1 and No. 2. Price $1 per volume; sent postpaid, on receipt of the price. CUTLERY Manufacturers. MERIDEN CUTLERY CO., New York and Meriden, Conn. Manufrs. of all kinds of Table Cutlery, and ex- clusive makers of the Patent Hard Rubber Handle Knives. Orders solicited. DRUGGISTS "Wholesale and Retail. SNIPES AND KINERSSLY, No. 129 Second street, The Dalles, Oregon. DRY GOODS -Staple and Fancy. MOODY & McLEOD, The Dalles, Oregon. Dealers in Staple and Fancy Dry Goods, Clothing! Hats and Caps, Boots and Shoes, etc. Best and lowest prices. DRY GOODS Retail. FOX, J. C, Hailey. Idaho Territory. Dry Goods, Millin- ery and Fancy. ENGINES, BOILERS, PUMPS, ETC. STAVER & WALKER, New Market Block, Portland, Oregon. See large view No, 5, Tours No. 1 . WASHINK Tracts of present m bach, No ers, Tacoi Fl OREGON gon. See G SWIFT * Hardwar Cigars. GRC BROOKS ceries, F Oretron. E. C. COl TAYLOR. Jones, V Dealers ments, I Oregon. PENDLE' CO. Imi Shelf Hf. dleton H. BRIGGS I Chicago, coatp;s )UR< Mo - part ESMOND. First-cla llnts HOTEL Fhich street, K . INTERN. mg! Idaho Tlmit travelers MONTE on the lir ST. JAM! ST. JAM] OVERLA Bros. Pr WALKEI free bus WINDSO kept hot< WEBER, modatioi HALLAC Denver, THE E. ? URING THE OR CO., Po STAVER Oregon. WALKE Park str LEDGEF. Besbadi OREGOr The larc SrtF**■« "v for sale. Land Office R Oregon. AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS. I'll ii in, s. O. Dealer in ,i Implement*, w agons, Buggies, Hat I , I ousi ■ ton, Oregon. i II. I. "on BROS, Dealers in Agricultural Impli and every variety <>i vehicles. \'os. 25; to 257 Second street, I hi Dallei , Ornfon. PENDLETON HARDWARE AND IMPLEMENT CO. Importers oi Agricultural Implements, Heavy and Shelf Hardware, Stoves, Ranges, Rti 1 rider the Pen dlelon Hotel, Pendleton, Oregon. STAVER a WALRER.Neu Market Block, Pi Oregon. See large view No. 5; Tours No. 1 BANKS National. CITY NAT. HANK, Lawrence and Sixteenth street, Denver, Col. Eastern and Foreign Exchange. FIRST NA'l BANK, Hailey, Idaho Ter. Capital, $100, 000. W. M. harr, President; J. M. liurkett, ('..shier. MERCHANTS' NAT. HANK, Seattle, \\ ashington. ■ Ni large view, No PACIFIC NAT hank. Bee large view,No.4; Tours N0.1 UNION NAT. HANK AND SAM'. DEPOSIT VAULTS, Salt Lake city, Utah. General banking busi- ness. BANKERS. DEXTER, MORTON & CO., Seattle, Washington. Incorporated, capital stock, $200,000; surplus and un- divided protils, {60,000. BOARD OF TRADE. SEATTLE HOARD-See large view No. 6; Tours No. I. BOOKS Publishers. SMITH A CO., M. I., Nos. 341 to 351 Dearborn street, Chicago, UL, and No. 2411 South Sixth street, Philadel- phia, Pa,, Publishers Crofutt's New Series Overland Tours Two volumes, designated No. 1 and No. .-. Price $1 per volume; sent postpaid, on receipt of the price. CUTLERY Manilla, torer*. MERIDEN CUTLERY CO.. New York and Meriden Conn. Manufra. of all kinds of Table Cutlery, and ex- clusive makers of the Patent Maid Rubber Handle Knives. Or.lers solicited. DRUGGISTS Wholesale and Retail. SNIPES AND KINKKSSI.Y, No. 1 jo Second street, The Dalles, Oregon. DRY GOODS Staple and Fancy. MOODY & McI.KOI), the Dalles, Oregon. Dealers in staple and Fancy Dry Goods, Clothing, Hats ami Caps, Hoots and Shoes, etc. Best and lowest prices. DRY GOODS Retail. FOX, J.C., Hailey, Idaho Territory. Dry Goodt, Millin- ery and Fan ENGINES, BOILERS. PUMPS, ETC. STAVES A WALKER, New Market Block, Portland, Oregon. See large view No. 5, Tours No. 1 . TOR SALE. WASHINGTON rSSrVoRy TIMBER LANDS! In ' -"' <'■■:,, ,,!'.;...., a « res, at prices far below ant market Vil i, ,« Correspondence solicited. Sikin- »l V " ;J " * s!, tii Re 1 Estate and Mortgage Brok- »ma, Vvaah ItJ *HlTr/RE -Manufacture™. " v ' 'H\T|| 1:1; MANFG. CO., Portland, Ore- gon. \o 6, Tours No, 1. GENERAL MERCHANDISE. Wholesale and Retail. 1 A REGAN Hailey, Idaho Territory. Groceries, Hardware, Boots 'jnd Shoes, Clothing, Liquors and Cigars. -Mining supplies a specialty. GKOCERi ES . PROVISIONS, ETC. BROOKS A BEERS Jobbers ami Dealers in Staple Gro- • ''"■. Grain Flour, Bacon, Etc., I he Dalles, HARDWARE. 1 "l 1 IN' HABDWARE CO., Hailey, Idaho Ter. I w LOR, IONES A CO. F. C. Taylor, Prcs.; W. II. (ones, Vice-Pres. and Manager; S. P. Sturges, Sec'y. Dealers in General Hardware and Agricultural Imple- ment, Ira,,,', Opera Mouse Building, Pendleton, Oregon. PENDLBTON MAKDW Alii. AND IMPLEMENT ru Importers of Agricultural Implements, Heavy and Shelf Hardware, stoves, Ranges, Etc. Under the Pen- dleton Hotel, Pendleton, Oregon. HOTELS. BRIGGS HOI sk, lorner Randolph and Fifth avenue, Chicago, III. !•'. I'pman, Proprietor. COATES HOUSE. The hading hotel in Kansas City, Mo. BSMOND HOTEL (European Plan) Portland, Oregon. First-class. Free Bus to and from all trains and boats. HOTEL BRUNSWICK, corner Broadway and Eleventh street, Kansas Cily, Mo INTERNATIONAL. Matt. McFall, Prop., Bellevue, Idaho Ter. Special accommodations lor commercial travelers. MONTR CRISTO, Salida, Colo. Regular meal station on the line of the Denver & Rio Grande Railway. ST. JAMES. Opp. Grand Opera House, Denver, Colo. ST. JAME8. Kansas City, Mo. OVERLAND HOTEL, Boise City, Idaho Ter. Eastman Bros. Proprietors. Rates $3 to $3.50 per day. WALKER MOUSE, Salt Lake City, Utah. First-class free bus. G. S. Erb, Proprietor. WINDSOR HOTEL. Topeka, Kan. Largest and best kept hotel in the city. LI VI RY STABLES. WEBER, PETER. Hailey, Idaho Ter Special accom- modations for Tourists. LUMBER, Etc. MALLACK AJ HOWARD, Seventh and Larimer streets. Denver, Colo. THE E. F.HALLACK LUMRER AND MANUFACT- URING CO., No. iS 2 i S. Malladay Street, Denver, Colo. THE OREGON LUMBER AND MANUFACTURING CO., Portland, Oregon. MACHINERY. STAYER A.- WALKER, New Market Block, Portland, Oregon. Sec large view No. 5, Tours No. I, MATCH MANUFACTURERS. WALKER * DANA, Office and Factory No. 10 N. E. Park street, corner A, Portland, Oregon. NEWSPAPERS. I. EDGED. Daily and Weekly, Tacoma, Washington Bess advertising medium in the Puget Sound country. OREGONIIAN. Daily and Weekly, Portland, Oregon. The lariest circulation of any newspaper in Oregon. Kl 1 oki,. Published Weekly at Park Ctv, Utah. The richest Mining I amp in the Territory d ^r,, !:,::. NTA,v nkw * &* *>* *«**. ^B^tt^aho^e'rn^ 68 "'- M ' ;ton KeU * *»* TIMES Daily and Weekly. Hailey, Idaho Territory. H'rhorv"- °^ ^ Wm **- S:llt '"^ Cfty, Utah PHOTOGRAPHERS. C i- A o.^eauu^vas7;;4,o„: of p "* ci so,,n,L Op|,ositc REAL ESTATE. [See Agents and Hrokers.] A JT KB 1 N «-L r,, J na, Washington. See large- view No. 6, I ours No. 1. BAER A BOARDMAN. Roans No. 5 and 6 BuUer Building, Seattle, Washington. I -HI. I MAN I.I.KH EI.I V \ & I O., Seattle, Washirg- ton. See on large view No. 5, Tours No. 1. KNIGHT, 1'RVE & MILLS, Tacoma, Washington. See large view No. 6, "lours N„. ,. McGREGOR, DAN'L. Investment Hroker, No. 1346 l'a- cihc avenue, Tacoma, Washington. PINCKNEI A CO., WM. II. Rooms 1 and 2, Union Block, Seattle, Wash. Information regarding SeatUe. the most desirable locations for intending settlers and the best opportunity lor investment in Washington, f ir- nished upon application. ROSS & NANAERT, Tacoma, Washington. See large view No. 6, Tours No. 1. THE SEATTLE LAND CO. Incorporated. Molman & Robinson. Managers, 12^ Cherry street (ground floor), Seattle, Washington. t3*~Ruy and sell Real Estate. SMART, E. T., Ilutler Block, corner James and Second streets. Real Estate Exchange, Seatlle, Washington. SMITH. ROOT A- JORDAN, 919 Pacific avenue, Tacoma, Washington. Special attention to investments for non- residents. Correspondence solicited. WHEELER A HALE, No. 1019 Pacific avenue, Tacorr a, Washington. References, Pacific Nat. Bank and Nat. Rank of Commerce. WHITE & Co., corner Main and Second street, Seattle, Washington. Real Estate and Mortgage Brokers. REAL ESTATE Brokers. fSee Agents.! LEMMON & BOON'. Real Estate Loans and Insur- ance. Hailey, Idaho Territory. PINCKNEY A CO.. Wm. H. Rooms Nos. 1 and 2 Union Block, Seattle. Washington. Information regarding Seatt e the most desirable locations for intending settlers, and the best opportunity for investment in Washington, furnished upon application. SMART, E. T.. Butler Block, corner James and Second streets. Real Estate Exchange, Seattle, Washington. SMITH, ROOT* JORDAN, 010 Pacific avenue, Tacoma, Washington. Special attention to investments for nor residents. Correspondence solicited. TAYLOR O. D., office in French's Building, corner Washington and Second streets, The Dalles, Oregon. Loans and purchases for non-residents a specialty; S ptr cent, net guaranteed to lenders. RAILROADS. Chicago &• Northwestern. See last page of Tours. TRANSFER LINES. SEATTLE TRANSFER CO. Incorporated, paid up- capital, $150,000. Passengers, freight and baggage. Bag- gage chr-,,ked to all points. Have a fine line of ca.' 'ages and caiis. Special rates to Tourists. Office corner Second and Main streets, Seattle, Washington. Tele- phone 41. B. F. Shaubut, Manager. WATCHES, JEWELRY. ETC. BRUMM, G. W.. Boise City, Idaho Territory. Watches, Clocks, Jewelrv, Silverware, Spectacles, Field Glasses, Importers and Fancy Goods, Toys, etc. ■ '■ yg^This Map goes in all editions of TOURS No. 1 and 2. The cards insetted In this depart ment are charged for at ten dollars for two lines (sixteen words), exclusive of the headings, which are free. Parties can go under various headings at the same rate. No cuts or display type admit ted. Each additional line five dollars. ^ ^ ^ V ^ c °" o^ <^ Q V t .«-"^^ V • VV <^l vP W ' * A^ ^J- *^ *Ol ^^ ; ^^ % ****** *')i§K v ^/ ECKMAN IDERY INC. ^ 1989 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 016 092 975 3