I s ] 1 .0^^ : " «= ^ "O ■.'. .^v' _ V •■^' .f° -.. % C- "^ r. -5 '- . r.^ "^. \ c°" ^ o ■"<«, ■0* > » o . o ' V ^. "•.1 .-.O n _^ • V Jo .■^'=^. >'. -it- vV .'5- V, . • ^ - . ■ . u v-j • . .: ■ 5.0 '<^ ,0' ^ " , ' -.^^ o •-;- :'^' .0^ ^° -.. •.''-1'* > ,-J^ /:.,. < >^ .:•• ■i^. * u »~o "<*. .•^''^ .0 ,0 --:. ^' ^^■•V'o.. •^ 6 '^ o. /\ ,'-^ "^^ V . .^^ ,0.r cy o-" , c^ V o •>- .-*• . -r, ^' .,..-, ^^o"^ A. o . .:/ -x^ -^ ^- . , <^- -V . .1-* »!., *"^-'^ %'- .0 P' ,.^,:-:/, *>- ■^■*v c ■<-\ ^^■' ^c c.\: ^, '<■:, <^ .^'' ,0 -/ ^o. 'C//.;/-i "V. k ^''<.. "^ v^" ,0 .7-. • < O ■ * .0 ri- 1 * •-: O ,^ k-0^ J' ■'-•?. ..^-^^ ' "-r. v^ .<^ <' X^ 0" ,*^ •^o v^' '^■o' ,-iS ^ lEHi ii^ a a ON CUTTING GARMENTS TO FIT THE HUMAN FORM: CONTAINING FIFTY DIAGRAMS AND DESIGNS REDUCED TO MATHEMATICAL PRINCIPLES. %. ACCOMPANIED BY A PEKIODICAL EEPORT OF FASHIONS. YU^ B3r kcOTT & WILSON, 146 BROADWAY. NEW YORK: 1841. Southern District of JVeiv York, ss. Be it Remembered, That on the twenty-iiinih day of June, Anno Domini 1841, Scott & Wilson, of the said Oistrict, have deposited at this Office the title of a Book, the title of which is in the words following, to wit : " A Treatise on Cutting Garments to fit the Human Form ; containing Fifty Diagrams and Designs, reduced tc Mathematical Principles. Accompanied by a Periodical Report of Fashions. By Scott & Wilson, 146 Broadway." The right whereof they claim as Authors and Proprietors, in conformity with an Act of Congress, entitled " An Act to amend the several Acts respecting copy-rights." CHAS. D. BETTS, Clerk of the Southern District of JVetc York. v>r/ f-/;5f''/ PREFACE. In offering this Work for the patronage of the Trade, the Authors think proper to suggest some of the reasons which have induced them to pubhsh so copious a treatise at this time. In the year 1827, Mr. Wilson, of the present firm, invented and secured the patent for the Square and Scales accompanying the Square Rule System, — which last, he secured by copy-right. Subsequently — by invention, purchase and the securing by copy rights — he became owner of all the systems taught in this country by the Square Rule, until this establishment changed owners in 1834, when Mr. Scott came into the concern. The various editions published since that period, have been almost exclusively confined to the Shoulder-Measure System — waiving the republication of the various Breast-Measure Systems, and those on Measurement, to some subsequent period, when the members of the firm should be better able to take up the subject in full, and give to it that extraordinary attention which one of so great importance necessarily demanded. In the mean time — while we were anxiously looking forward to the time when we hoped to be able to do proper justice to our patrons and ourselves, by publishing a compilation of all our rights on the subject of Cutting — our ears were frequently saluted with the names of upstarts in our business, who relied for patronage upon the sole gicund of having shown themselves capable of copying some one of the systems which had long since been secured to us by Patent or Copy-right. The fact which caused the greatest regret, was that about all of the beginners in the sale of infringements upon our publications, were either those who had travelled as agents for this establishment until they had become so indebted that they could procure no more systems on credit, or persons who — having learned some one of our system.s — thought it superior to any other ; and being persons of no fixed principles, thought they could — by merely changing a line on the draft — evade the penalty of the law ; and thus risking the wear and tear of conscience, and the penalties of the law, have pursued a grovelling, self-degrading course, until many of them have lost even the flickering spark of moral sensibility, which was scarcely perceptible when they first engaged in their present abandoned course. The rule-venders above alluded to, have not only done us great injustice, but they have robbed many of the trade of their hard earnings, for scarcely a shadow of an equivalent ; and justice demands that their career of mischief bo properly checked, which can only be effectually done by placing in the hands of the trade a work comprising about all the rules extant, so that when a catch-penny enters the store of any of our patrons, he may see the work copied by him iis readily as he could the likeness of himself in a mirror. The reason above noticed is not without weight in inducing a publication of this kind, but we trust we are governed by another, of paramount importance. It is known that, previous to this publication, there was only one of the kind, which was sufficiently full and diversified to give a student a partial idea of the plans for cutting every variety of gar- ments which the practical artist is called upon to furnish. The one alluded to was published by Mr. Wilson in 1S33, and contains 40 Diagrams and Desisns of Garments, with Explanations, and bound in morocco. We believe that the interests of the Trade demand, at this time, a standard work on Cutting, and while we feel diffident of sufficient ability to render a work of this kind so unexceptionable as to ensure the general praise of the American Tailor of this generation, we cannot look forward to the next— when the Trade will have advanced at the same ratio which, within the last fifteen years, has raised it so high in a knowledge of the Trade, and in the eyes of the world — without claiming, as an excuse for our misjudgment, the present comparative infancy in works of this kind, and a want of those precedents which are the result only of a liberal, free interchange of opinions, in matters relating to our art, by all tho.=e of skilful practice in the business. Notwithstanding the present dearth of knowledge on the subject upon which this work treats, we are aware there must be a commencement in the publication of such works as are fit for a Tailors vocabulary ; and we therefore, with a zeal befitting the subject, have laid hold of every thing which we concluded would materially benefit the Trade, and the present volume is the result of much experience, labor, investigation and expense, which is most respectfullv iledicated to the Tailors of the United States, By their Respectful and Ob't Serv'ts, SCOTT & WILSON. GENERAL CONTENTS, ARGUMENT, &c., &c. The various Systems published with this work are founded upon measurement for the regulation of all permanent points in a Coat, or u[)on proportions of such measures as have been approved by experience, for forming those parts which give ilt and balance to garments. Measurement — by forming an angle in front of the scye, (as invented by Mr. Henderson, of Zanesville, Ohio, now member of the Legislature of that State,) and measuring from said angle, to regulate the length of both shoulder points, and the pitch of the shoulder and waist, as also to govern several other points — is laid down in a plain form, with the mode the various measures are taken and applied; carefully directed and marked. This system, as also several others of pretended recent invention, is founded upon the theory of obtaining the distance from the top of the Coat to the bottom of the scye, at some point on a line around the body, parallel with the bottom of the scye, whicli plan was first secured by Patent in the year 1S27, by Mr. Wilson, by what was termed the Square Rule System, with Standard and Measurement. To the Standard, invented by Mr. Wilson, there was attached several sliding arms, and elastic straps to slide up under the arms, and thus form a line parallel with the bottom of the scye from the front ot' both scyes across the back, for getting the distances from the top of the Coat at the neck, to such points on the parallel line thus formed, as the cutter might require. This Patent, therefore, secured the fundamental principle of Measurement, upon which all the works that now treat upon the subject are based ; and it is very questionable, whether this plan is not more practicable than any one invented since, with the single exception, that the principle invented by Mr. Henderson requires that a strap be used of sufficient length to extend round the body, close under the arms, and clasp at front — thus enabling the cutter to form a starting point on the breast, from which to measure back !nd upward to the socket-bone, and over the shoulder to a point on the back-seam for pitching the shoulder properly. This will be noticed as an hnportant desideratum, for it is a well established fact, that all proof-measures may agree, and .still the garment be out of balance. A strap extending round the body, is also preferable to one extending only pan way, for by what means can it be ascertained how close to apply a measure that extends only from the front of the scye to the back-seam ! For, if too loose, the customer does not feel it ; and if too tight, it is the same : and the whole dependence for a correct measure rests upon the experience and judgment of the measurer ; and without practice, there can be no experience — consequently, the; student has no guarantee for those correct results so essential, and in fact, vital, to the success and reputation of a beginner in business. The Shoulder-Measure System (or the system regulating the permanent points in garments by proportions of proof-measures) is illustrated in the publication so plainly, as to show the various applications, and the bearing they severally have over the different points in a garment that give ilt and shape about the shoulders. There are several plans of Measurement contained in this work, an examination of which cannot fail to enlist the attention of the practical cutter, as well for their feasibility as their simplicity ; and our present limits forbidding a detailed explanation of each, we therefore refer the reader to the plates and explanations contained in the body of the work. The proportions of the Breast-Measure — as baing the oldest, best understood, and easiest mode to measure and cut by — has been carefully revised, and brought up to the present standard of taste. We are aware there are many cutters in this country, among the most talented in the profession, who prefer the Breast-Measure System. The secret in the success of such persons, is attributable to their great care in taking and applying proof-measures ; for it is self- evident, that the size at the breast is no criterion for the pitch of, and shape about the shoulders. For, while three persons agree in size around the breast, they may all differ in shape and position, so as to require three differently shaped garments to fit them. There are some persons of the trade who alter for the different forms according to the (hrections of their judgment, which furnishes a reason for the great difference in the shape of garments that are cut l)y those who use one system, and endeavor to cut according to the same fashion. It was by a knowledge of this fact by Mr. Wilson in 1S27, that brought forth the invention of the Standard and its various slides and measuring aparatus, as heretofore noticed ; and we now challenge all the pretended authors on Measurement, to produce a theory inch- pendent of this, that has any merit at all. We would not wish (o be understood as mentioning this for self-nraUilalicii, but from a tinn conviction that, apart from this theory, riz. — ascertaining the distance from the top of (he Coat to the bottom of the scye — whether measured up or down — there is no improvement on Measurement since the Standard was patented, except the point on the breast toward the front, to get the pitch of the shoulder by, and which belongs to us, — having purchased the improvement of Mr. Henderson, as above mentioned ; and which improvement, could not have been made without the original ; for the law on patents, requires that each principle secured by patent shall be original in itself; consequently, all patents on Measurement, dated since the one for the Standard, and dependent for their successful operation upon the distances secured by that patent, must have been an infringement upon it, and subject to the penalty of the law in all such cases. It remains therefore, for the Trade to judge, whether there is anv System of Measurement wholly independent of the measures secured by the patent for the Standard and its aparalus. There are persons also, who cut by the Breast-Measure, in consequence of a prejudice that has obtained with many, by reason of their having previously adopted some mode of measuring and application, which was warrnnird as self-varying, when — by use — it was found to come so far short of varying to the different forms of men, that it did not even change the shape of the fore-part and sleeves, to conform with backs differently shaped, though intended for the same individual. This, we say, has induced many to distrust all new theories, and return to the old mode of dividing the Breast-Measure, as the only alternative ; which, if imperfect in theory, will however enable them to avoid utterly spoiling garments, and by great care in the application of proof-measures, generally ensure a respectable fit. After fifteen years experience by practical men, upon theories differing from any before practiced upon, and furnishing — as those invented at that time did— the means and scope for investigation ; and after the ingenuity of the whole Trade in Europe, as well as America, having been taxed to its utmost for so many years, in aiming to furnish an unerring system for cutting garments, it seems almost egotistical to claim, at this late day, the authorship of prin- ciples — new to the Trade — surpassing, in facility and correctness, all previous inventions, and calling upon the giants of the Trade for their scrupulous investigation. Yet, however vaunting or self-conceited it may appear, we are con- strained to state, in truth and justice to ourselves, that this new work contains rules for Cutting — as simple and easy of practice as they are perfect in theory — calculated to add to the fund of knowledge already acquired by those of hard studying and long practice in our business, beyond any work of the kind hitherto offered to the Trade for patronage. While this work cannot fail to benefit persons of experience and taste, it presents advantages of inestimable value to the student who has just commenced practice in the art, and looking forward with a steady aim toward that enviable notoriety, which, without a superior knowledge of his business, he can never reasonably expect to obtain. DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE PATENT STANDARD. Make a Standard of seven feet in length, and about one and a half inch thick ; let it be divided into inches and half inches, and supported by proper feet, or made to fasten at the foot, so as to incline the top according to the natural position of the customer. Attach several slides to the Standard, as follows : — One near the lop, to which is attached a slide crossing the Standard at right angles, and intended for measuring the stoop at the neck — being inched, and moveable in the slide. Another will be placed below, with a brass or steel band attached to it, long enough to extend across the back and under the arms. This is intended for sliding up under the arms, to show the distance the customer measures from the neck to a point on the back at the centre, opposite the bottom of the arms. To this cross-strap extending under the arms, there are two measures attached, for taking the distance around the shoulders, (see directions with the specifica- tion of patent, and directions in copy-right granted to James G. Wilson, February 2Sth, 1827.) There is also a moveable slide, with an inched slide, (the same as the one for finding the stoop at the neck,) for ascertaining the hollow of the waist at the back. There is also another slide opposite the hips, with a piece attached, forming a Grecian cross. There may also be a slide attached, with an arm for sliding to the fork, for ascertaining the length of inside seam of Pantaloons. For further directions, see engraving in this work representing the Standard Directions for Dividing the J\Ieasures. Should the measure from 1 around the front and bottom of scye and back to 1, be 26, 13 inches would be the one-half. This half is divided into halves, fourths, eighths, sixteenths, and thirty-seconds. It is again divided into thirds, sixths, twelfths, and twenty-fourths. Should the measure from 2 to 2 be 2.5, 124 inches would be the half; and this would be divided into halves, fourths, eighths, -ixteenths, and thirty-seconds. It should be again divided into thirds, si.\ths, twelfths, and twenty-fourths. The number of measures to be thus divided is 18, including the measures from 17 to 34 inches inclusive. Thin strips of paper maybe divided as above directed, and the proportions marked with ink, and the strips pasted on paste- board, and they will answer as well as the Square and Scales to draft a good fit by ; but as the Square and Scales can be used with more facility, the divisions on paper will only be substituted until the Square and Scales can be sent by private hand, as they cannot be sent by mail. The scale divided from the measure taken from 1 to 1, will be used to obtain the distance directed by every sentence that is marked thus * ; and the scale divided from the measure taken from 2 to 2, will be used to obtain all distances not marked as above This is confined, however, to the first nine engravings in this Treatise, as all others are not indicated for the use of the different Shoulder-Measures by the star DESCRIPTION AND USE OF THE SQ,UARE AND SCALES. The numbers on the long arm of the Square in the space where the strips are used, beginning with No. 45 and running to 49, are the halves of the sizes they represent, as the scales are too short to admit them. The scales, or strips, have four different sizes on each one, and there are two scales of each size used at a time, placed on the long and short arms of the Square, and held to their places by springs. On the short arm of the Square, commencing at 2 and running to 5| inches, is a wire extending for the purpose of fastening the end of an inch-measure to, for taking the length of inside-seam for pantaloons. On the back of the Square, figures representing the inches, and running from 1 to 21 inches, are intended ior taking the length of fork-seam of pantaloons at the top, when taking the length of inside-scam. fjUjr' When draftmg by the Shoulder-Measure System, it will frequently be found necessary to use two scales of diflereiit sizes at a time ; as, for instance — should the measures from 1 to 1 and from 2 to 2 ditTer in size, the cutter will, in such case, use them both, and draft by each as represented by the different Shoulder-Measure Systems. Description and Use of the JVeiv Square. Let a common square be made of wood or metal, of about two feet in the long arm, and one foot in the short arm, and about one and a half inches wide ; on it, place the inches in the centre of the front surface ; and near the front and inside edges place the tables according to the distances required to produce the points necessary to give the drafts on Plates 11, 12, 13, &c. Table A, commencing at 8 inches and running to 15', is a division of the whole shoulder-measure, and producer the front of scye. Table D, on the inside of the square, commencing at 6J inches and running to 14 inches^ is a division of the whole shoulder-measure used to find the centre of scye at 21, and establishes 22 on Plate 11. Tablt F, commencing at 3| inches and running to 7 inches, is J of scye, and produces the width of scye as from 15 to 16 on Plate 11. Table B, on the short arm of the square, commencing opposite 2^ to 9 inches, is to obtain the distances iVom 13 to 17, being the bottom of scye , also, to obtain the width of back from 5 to 6 on Plate 11, &c. To use this square, take the number that the man measures round the shoulder, and the same number in the table will produc< the points required ; and in measuring round the arm where the scye would come, the size of that measure is used in ihe tables B and F, to find the bottom and width of scye. DESCRIPTION OF THE RULER. Let a Ruler be made from 16 to 24 inches long, one-eighth of an inch thick, and about 2 inches wide. Allow half an inch space in the centre, upon which indent the inches, halves and quarters. At each side of the space, or line- of inches, the tables agreeing with proportions of the Shoulder-Measures, and proportions of such other measures as may be required, will be indented, — beginning the several scales thus indented at the proper distances from either end, so that the scales may be as single and little complicated as possible. The several scales will be distinguished by different characters or letters. In place of the scales being indented on the Ruler, they may be made of separate pieces of wood, metal, or stiff' paper, and attached to the Ruler by springs placed across the Ruler, so as to confine the scales on the surface of the Ruler, at the edge. In this case, it would be well to form a groove or shoulder lengthwise the Ruler, from the edge a half inch back, which space will be fitted with the scales. TER3IS. Treatise on Cutlmg Garments, - - - - - - - - - - - $10 00 Do. do. to those who have previously purchased a Book on Cutting from us or either of our predecessors, -------------3 00 New York Report of Fashions, per annum, 4 00 Do. do. do. single copy, -.--...-■- 2 00 London Report of Fashions, per annum, 1 00 Minor of Fashion, .--.----------100 Square and Scales, -..----.---.-- 3 00 New Square with proportions indented, ......... -3 OO Paper Square, for pasting on a plain square — to be sent by mail, 1 00 Tailors' Shears, Tapes, Crayons, d|-c., i^-c, conslanlltj on hand and for sale as low as can be purchased elseiehen PL. ATE, X"! /•J/ir/fro// /.///it'y/y/y>//f /■ ^^ 'J/^/fii 'Sfr .1.7. EXPLANATION OF PLATE No. 1. Fig. 2. — E)rf.ss Coat. 1st. Take the size ot" waist and breast under coat. Then hutton the coat, and mark on the back seam at the top, and at 3 opposite the shoulder blade, and at 4 as the length of waist. 2d. Then measure from 1 to 3 and 4 and 5 as the length of the coat. 3d. From 2 on back seam to the width of back, extending the measure to the elbow, and to the length of sleeve at the hand. 4th. Take measures of the arm at 6, 7, and the wrist, and hand. 5th. From 1 to length of breast, or lapelle at front. 6th. From 1 by front of scye on line E to top of hip at 8 ; being from - - - - - - 1 to 8 7th. From 1 by front of scyo on line D to waist, u ^ ..... 1 to 4 Stli. From 1 by front of scyc on line C to 3 on back scam, " " ■ - - - - - 1 to 3 *9th. From 1 on line A by front of scye, and round to 1, " " - - - - - 1 to 1 *10th. From 2 on back seam over the shoulder, around by front of scye, and back on line 2 to 2, - - 2 to 2 N. B. — Point 2 on back seam is at the centre of the back between the shoulders. For drafting, select the scales* corresponding with measures 9 and 10, being the measures taken from the socket-bone aroimd the scye to the same place, or from 1 to 1, and from the centre of the back between the shoulders around by front of scyc to the same place, or from 2 to 2. The measure from 1 to 1 is called the upper shoulder measure, and the one from 2 to 2, the lower. For Over Coats, the measures of breast and waist will be taken over the body coat, and there should be an allowance of one inch to the measure from 1 to 1 and from 2 to 2 each. (Cr" For application of Pi-nof measures, see Plate 3, and the directions. Fig. 1. — Vest. 1st. Take the size of breast and waist under coat. 2d. Then measure by line A from socket-bone to length at front. 3d. From socket-bone, by line B, to length at the hip. 4th. From 2 to 2 on Fig. 2. •5th. From 1 to 1 on do. Fig. 1. — Pantaloons. Measure from 1 at top of pantaloons at the side, to 2 at top of hip-bone ; from thence extend the measure down to 3 at the knee, and to 4 at the bottom to the length required. Then take the length of the inside seam. Then measure the waist at the smallest place between the lower rib and hip. Then measure round the hips at 2 by line C. Then round at the most prominent part of hips, as line D. Then round the thigh at fork, as line E. Then round knee at F — calf at G — ankle at H, and foot at I. Then measure across the sole where line I passes under the foot. Then measure from line I at the sole, at the inside, around the heel, to the line at the outside of the foot. Then measure from the sole where the heel commences around the heel to the opposite side. N. B. — There is no necessity for measuring around the foot except for gaiter-bottoms- and pants that strap down closely. 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ID .S 2 a en C3 ^ § ID o ■ — •" ^ J3 M C3 __ c ^^ ■& Q 3 5. en J2 PliATE JS^ n. o W -»3 O z o < Z <5 w S 2 g O S CO -1>4 O ■ ns -S -H g m ■» w CJ a) O ID -^ o -S a. _, 3 a> "^ c S S o =« C "> § 53 ^ J m p ^— c 2 •-• -a o- -o . •£ S ■«; ij g ■2 S ?q ■^ J- tn Vi o o g S B ta — S ^ ^ o ^ c fc- o s g ffl J= " ^ o ■5 - i "^ »-^ (O o ra ■" ^ F in c3 ° o o c p J I to £ " e c3 O ■£ ^ (1> O e O 05 <0 C5 O J3 r-c .-< 'H , o 2': § 00 CO m CD c3 ^ii CD '~ c c o 2 -T* H ® -S ;S o -G Ki ■" -a -o § § fa 2 = 2 m ^ o a. >. ^3 -flc) «} o ^„ ? IS > -^ Q 2 ttl 75 o c ■" o *J Cu o 0) 2 ^ o Q s £ . o >-. 1^ O ^ 3 m to a> o s C 01 a) « OP P 1^ P ■" fa ■2 ^ " K5 "O <^ S -^i 5 J= a ^ o N ^1 3; fo IM s ^ ^ 5 o "^ o Sri S ^ - -i -C "3 O ." 3 S J £ r S ^ O -C c -i; bC -= - ^-^ & -7^ 'S ■£ ~ " T3 C o o? CO cc CO >-. (M Q bD -3 rn £ •! O CO IM « S (0 IM _ W J- 00 IN 2 o o CD (M ■ 5 P o O 3 OJ 2 ^ -3 .£ '-S ^ S o n fe -5 1 r-H s 5 c ci o m a s s 1 a O W 3 a -i -^ '::: oj o " C3 ^ — s v^ c3 = .2 H o o S g -2 o y p cd ^ 2 ^ H -3 .S Wig o ^ IM -S o £ O ^ lO " £ ■_ 3 O C bc £ " c3 o fa cc 1^ £ o fa o to M « CO in £ tfi be _2 c o t ii £ IM O -= , --I - 13 § ^ -p 5 o 'II -l-t OJ m £- c -f S O fa' o ■* C5 £ -t o o fa (» 'f 1^ J3 o to rp o 't E p c o |j IP •5 •" g Oi 2 rS H rt , ;- r/i P 15 O rt l/j ^y> ,a "rt S. N o .«_> ^ o ^ E (M m 11) £ o O o s a> *m e tM •-^ c o OJ ^ ^ J= o ♦J o 13 ^ _c Q H '5 s 0) « a . ..ider the coat, and length of lapelle. t^ The measure from 1 to 1 is called the Upper Shoulder Measure and to 2 to 2 the Lower Shoulder Measure. J^ The Lower Shoulder Measure is placed upon the Square, and called Table 4 . the Upper Shoulder Measure is placed upon the Square, and called Table D. ^ The points to be established ;„ draftm^^ so as to allow the proper proportions of each measure to effect their appropriate bearings in giving i^t and ha ab: t the shoulders, are du'l v explained in the directions for drafting the coat : see Plato 10..^ Place a plumb- Hne at the front of scye at 13, and let the lead drop below the hips. Mark at the hollow of the waist under the lie, 1, measure from thence to the centre of back at tack. This measure is applied from 20 to 21 in Plate 12. (CT H- measure is recommended for use on forms of unnatural attitude only. =C3 Observations on Plates 1 and 12. In obtaining the distance from 1 to 3 in measunng-if the man is round-shouldered, this distance ,s increased accordm. to the natural variation from a correct form ; and the spring of the coat from 9 to 21 and 2S is decreased. The up :r shoulder-measure being shorter than for a man standing erect, shortens the point at 12, whilst it lengthens the d. tance from 1 to 4 ; and the lower shoulder-measure being the largest for this form of persons, increases the distance iVom the centre of the back to the front of scye. For a man standing erect, the ^v^iole draft is reversed to olm with his shape. After thus forming the shoulders above the horizontal line at ^ ^•^--; J ^ -^;;; obtaimng the distance from 1 to 3 in measurement, if there should be an error ot half an inch in taking that distance U will «:. materially atfect the coat, as the proportions above the line are regulated by the .J -">"^;'7; . ^^^ ^^^ haviii. formed that part of the coat above the line drawn at the bottom of the scye, you will then proceed to form the r , part of.the c at by the waist-mca^ure. Sweep from 3 to 21 at 7, then square out horn 20 to 21 to where one- quaner of the waist-measure will touch the sweep from 3 to 21, and this forms point 21. and sel.-varies the pitch at the waist according to the measure. mnsures In drafting the back, the angles that are formed from 1 to 5 and 4, are self-varied according to the measures taken so that the scye-gorge will be varied according to any fashion or form of man. , „ ,. T teve-heal is^ob^ained by the same principle of angles with that of the back, so that tor ^> ---'-- of men, or changes of iashion, it will self-vary, so as to give the correct distance from the centre of the back to the front of scye, as is shown from 1 to 6 on sleeve draft. JfillJ/xoit X < ■^ ;* ^ K &2 w 05 < US bfl — « 3 H S . '^ j= 'o «> -S c ■ - '— c a u -a E ■3 ^ ^ 3 w C3 -3 (I! 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