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 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 
 
 t~%&\ 
 
 %v W x^'^a 
 
 ' Shelf. :.§.4AWS 
 
 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 
 

 LSI. Barbara 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY, 
 
 CLIMATE, 
 
 RESOURCES, 
 
 A N 1) 
 
 Published by the 
 INDEPENDENT PUBLISHING CO. 
 
 Santa Barbara, Cal. 
 
Hitta 
 
 arhra m It 
 
 %. 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY, 
 
 CLIMATE, 
 
 RESOURCES, 
 
 |!33pil(Da.'3 JD_£ |! ISS^^M^aa^ 
 
 Published by the 
 INDEPENDENT PUBLISHING CO., 
 
 Santa Barbara, Cal. 
 
 :>***- 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1884, by 
 MARY C. F. HALL-WOOD, (1^*/ 
 
 in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at "Washington, D. C. 
 
 f«TtP| 
 
 'Rc-fal 
 
INDEX 
 
 Page. 
 
 Access, Means of „ 20 
 
 Address, Agricultural 94 
 
 Arlington 50 
 
 A?; the Fair(Poern) 101 
 
 Burton Mound 52 
 
 Carpinteria, 30 
 
 CasitasPass 62 
 
 City, Santa Barbara 23 
 
 Climate 13 
 
 Pairying 89 
 
 Debt , 22 
 
 Dr. Dimmick 7u 
 
 Ell wood 35 
 
 Ferns 67 
 
 Fisheries 92 
 
 Flora 63 
 
 Game 02 
 
 Oaviota Pass 02 
 
 Geology ,., 70 
 
 Glen Annie 85 
 
 Goleta 33 
 
 Historical 7 
 
 Hogs ss 
 
 Hollister's 34 
 
 Honey 82 
 
 Horses 87 
 
 Hot Springs ; i 
 
 Indian Remains 68 
 
 Indian Village 58 
 
 Industries, Miscellaneous 8B 
 
 Introductory 5 
 
 Jesus Maria.,.,,,,,, 4} 
 
 Page. 
 
 Lake Fenton 58 
 
 La Patera 33 
 
 Lemons 7S 
 
 Lighthouse, Mesa 57 
 
 Lima Beans 79 
 
 Lompoc 39 
 
 Los Alamos. 43 
 
 Mission, Santa Barbara 50 
 
 Mission Canyon 59 
 
 Mollusca 60 
 
 Montecito 28 
 
 Mountain Trails 59 
 
 Objects of Interest 49 
 
 Ojai 62 
 
 Olive Culture 79 
 
 Paleontology 70 
 
 point Concepcion 3u 
 
 Population 22 
 
 Poultry m 
 
 Punta del Castillo 19 
 
 Ranchos (Table) 12 
 
 San Julian 42 
 
 s in MfircosPass oi 
 
 Santa Rita 42 
 
 Santa Maria 40 
 
 Santa Yncz 37 
 
 School Districts 22 
 
 Sea Mosses 54 
 
 Sevi n Falls 5Q 
 
 Surf Bathing 51 
 
 Topography 9 
 
 EJpperSanta Ynez 61 
 
 Wool Growing 93 
 
i 
 
 X 
 
 1 
 
 INTRODUCTORY. 
 
 A 
 
 *^i?X presenting this brief description to the public, our aim is not 
 so much to lavish poetic praises upon an "Earthly Par- 
 adise," as to gather into convenient and consistent shape 
 the practical details of soil, agriculture, climate and socie- 
 ty, which will answer the questions naturally asked by tour- 
 ists or intending settlers. 
 Although much has been written about Santa Barbara, good, bad 
 and indifferent, we feel that there is still something to be said; that 
 the new material, together with a condensed statement of all that has 
 been previously noted, may yet find interested leaders. Still, we enter 
 with diffidence upon the task, aiming onty to present to our readers a 
 resume of Santa Barbara's natural gifts and advantages, her hotels, 
 schools and societies, her fauna and flora, her mineral and agricultural 
 wealth. 
 
 We have drawn largely upon whatever was of definite value in 
 other publications. We are also greatly indebted to certain gentlemen 
 to whom credit will be given in the proper place, whose names are of 
 recognized authority upon the subjects whereof they individually treat. 
 Within the limited space allowed, our only object is to present 
 such a picture of Santa Barbara that the most enthusiastic reader 
 
SANTA BAEBAEA COfNTY. 
 
 sliall not be tempted to exclaim, how delightful! — but rather, how true, 
 how plain, how accurate! 
 
 The exact truth about Santa Barbara is enough, and more than 
 enough. Exaggerations injure us in large measure. Leading the 
 stranger to expect but a single ray of sunshine more than he finds, 
 renders him discontented with the most genuine of fair facts. But 
 when all is said, the real glory of the land, its* gentle and gracious 
 atmosphere, cannot be explained to a northern ear. One must live in 
 it, be thoroughly steeped in it, to love it as its native races do. The 
 old saying, applied to many other pleasant places on the earth's surface, 
 is particularly true of this : " Whoever has lived in it a year, is sure 
 to come back to it at last." 
 
 " It is not your mountains, or magical chain 
 
 Of islands dim purple, nor even the sea, 
 
 With gay racing billows by day, and by night 
 
 His monotone chant to uncomforted souls ; 
 
 Not these,, but the spirit of these, but the breath, 
 
 The reviving, the incomprehensible air, 
 
 That we breathe in and live in and love till we die !" 
 
 M. C. F. Hall-Wood. 
 
Santa 'Barbara County, 
 
 FROM 1542 TO 1884. 
 
 A BRIEF HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Jyty^HE earliest authentic record of Santa Barbara is found in the nar- 
 jLAJ^ rative of Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, a Portuguese navigator in 
 the service of Spain, -who, on the 27th day of June, 15-12, just fifty 
 years after the landing of Christobal Colon on the island of San Sal- 
 vador, sailed northward ffrom the western coast of Mexico, with two 
 vessels, the San Salvador and the Victoria. He passed through the 
 channel of Santa Barbara, observing upon the islands a dense popula- 
 tion, "men and women of fair complexion." He claims to have spent 
 months among the natives of what is now Santa Barbara county, and 
 notes the names of forty populous villages on the mainland. After 
 voyaging up the coast, Cabrillo returned, landing upon San Miguel 
 island, where he died and was buried. All traces of his last resting- 
 place have long since been obliterated by the shifting sands. Sixty 
 years later, Sebastian Vizcaino, commanding a Spanish fleet, re-dis- 
 covered the channel and named it "Canal de Santa Barbara," presum- 
 ably because it was reached upon the 4th of December. 
 
 Three hundred years ago, these valleys supported a swarming 
 population. Its soil freely supplied nuts and wild fruits. Game 
 abounded on the land and fish in the channel. The simple and indo- 
 lent aborigines wore no clothing worth mentioning. All their necessi- 
 ties were furnished by a fertile soil with little labor, and their days 
 were passed in calm security and animal comfort. At long intervals 
 strange ships appeared in the roadstead. Strange [men landed, pro- 
 cured supplies and sailed away. Gradually, it became known to the 
 
8 
 
 SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 
 
 brawny rovers who sailed under the victorious banners of Spain, that 
 California was not an island and not a peninsula, that the great river 
 to the north did not connect with the Atlantic Ocean, and that neither 
 the Isles of the Amazons nor the seven cities of Cibola lay in this di- 
 rection. 
 
 The strangers continued to come, encroaching more and more 
 upon the territory of the simple inhabitants, until this primitive race 
 slowly faded away before the resistless rovers. Their day had reached 
 its twilight one hundred years ago, when the Catholic religion and 
 the Spanish arms had gained a firm foothold upon the Pacific Coast. 
 
 The first efforts of Christian civilization in this county were made 
 by the Franciscan friars. The Mission of Santa Barbara was estab- 
 lished in 1786, the eleventh in p>oint of time among the Missions of 
 California ; that of San Diego, in 1769, being the first. After a few 
 years of toil and privation the Holy Fathers began to grow in power 
 and opulence. They were the temporal as well as the spiritual lords 
 of the land. They cultivated, by the hands of their Indian converts, 
 the olive, the fig and the vine, enjoying all the luxuries of a genial 
 climate and a generous soil that this great and costless labor could 
 produce. The whole race of natives were in fact serfs whose toil was 
 repaid by spiritual blessings. Until 1830 the Fathers held undisputed 
 sway. Missions were established all down the coast, making a close 
 cordon from San Francisco to San Diego. In this county the Mission 
 la Purisima was established in 1787 ; that of Santa Ynez in 1804. 
 
 From the year 1800 Anno Domini to 1822, (when the Spanish 
 dominion was finally overthrown in Mexico.) were the halcyon days 
 of the Mission system. The Fathers dwelt in patriarchal state ; with 
 regal revenues and powers. In 1825, it is recorded that the Mission 
 of Santa Barbara possessed 75,000 cattle, 5,000 tame horses and mules. 
 and 40,000 sheep. 
 
 But this also passed away. Mexico was in a chaotic, transitional 
 state, — hurrying from revolution to revolution. Every new govern- 
 ment sent new plunderers to loot the wealthy Missions. Finally, in 
 1833, the Mexican Government took possession of the Missions, and 
 the greater number of them were allowed to fall into ruins. Only 
 the Missions of Santa Ynez and Santa Barbara were retained by the 
 Franciscans. After the priestly dominion was followed bj the mili- 
 tary and civil rule of Mexico, now independent of Spain, Santa 
 Barbara became a place of importance. Here certain Governors of 
 the province resided, and here were held Departmental Assemblies, 
 until the time of Pio Pico, in 1846, the last of the old time Governors. 
 In 1841 Los Angeles was the largest town in the Californias, and Santa 
 Barbara and San Francisco were of equal size. 
 
 In 1846, the question of annexing California to England was dis- 
 
SANTA BAEBABA COUNTY. 
 
 cussed and decided negatively in an Assembly convened in Santa 
 Barbara. 
 
 Then in 1849, came the grand event of the Pacific Coast ; the 
 discovery of gold. In the mad rush for sudden wealth, which drew 
 the adventurous of all classes into its seething vortex, Southern Cali- 
 fornia was almost abandoned. New centres of wealth and population 
 were formed as if by magic. For twenty years this portion of the 
 State lay in its golden sunlight, smiling and unknown. Rumors then 
 began to spread of an unparalleled climate below Point Concepcion. 
 Straggling invalids made their way here and wrote back ecstatic- 
 accounts of balmy, delicious airs and everlasting sunshine. In 1872, 
 along with a crowd of health see&ers from all parts of the United 
 States, came Charles Nordhoff, an experienced journalist, whose en- 
 thusiasm and ardent praises awakened an unbounded interest in all 
 parts of our common country, spreading even to Europe. The inhab- 
 itants of Santa Barbara awoke one morning and found their cherished 
 valley famous! 
 
 From 1872 to 1875, nothing less than insanity ruled. Prices of 
 property advanced, doubled, quadrupled! It was in those days that 
 the country and climate were puffed out of all reason. Consumptives 
 in the last stages of the disease thronged the streets and the hotels. 
 Even private houses were filled with ghastly guests who ought never 
 to have left their homes. The inevitable crash came, following on 
 the heels of the Eastern panic, — and this was a ruined community. 
 
 In time, business recovered its tone, slowly but surely. The old 
 enthusiasm gave way to a more even growth, and to-day Santa Bar- 
 bara can boast of a solid and steady prosperity beyond the reach 
 of any ordinary panic. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY. 
 
 SrcrjftHE County of Santa Barbara, roughly stated, is in shape a par- 
 j^Ai; allelogram, bordered on the south and west by the Pacific ocean, 
 on the north by San Luis Obispo County and on the east by Ventura 
 County. The southern side of the parallelogram, nearly sixty miles 
 in length, begins at Point Concepcion, where the coast suddenly trends 
 to the eastward, and ends at Point Rincon, when it again assumes a 
 southeasterly course. An extra depression in the coast line just where 
 the city of Santa Barbara is situated, curves in so deeply that the 
 frontage of the city itself has decidedly a southeastern aspect, its 
 streets thereby running diagonally across from the cardinal points of 
 the compass, from northeast to southwest and from northwest to 
 southeast. 
 
10 
 
 SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 
 
 From Point Concepcion to the northern edge of the county is a 
 distance of about thirty-five miles, as the crow fiias; but on this west- 
 ern border of our parallelogram, Point Argnello, Point Purisima and 
 Point Sal reach out into the Pacific, more or less boldly. 
 
 A large portion of Santa Barbara County is covered with mountain 
 ranges. Parallel with the southern shore and the Santa Barbara 
 Channel with its outlying islands, rise the rugged heights of Santa 
 Ynez. These traverse the county from west to east, a solid [range, 
 from 3,000 to 4,000 feet high. Beyond the Santa Ynez, the San 
 Rafael range lies, running in a northwesterly direction, almost at 
 right angles. Beyond these again to the northeast, the irregular peaks 
 of the Coast Bange combine to form a wild melange of mountains, 
 onl} r broken by the valleys of the Cuyama. The greater part of this 
 northeastern quarter is set down upon official maps as unsurveyed 
 Government land. Yet among these inaccessible heights are many 
 narrow valleys, canons and canadas, watered by mountain springs, 
 pleasant and fertile; occupied by adventurous settlers and traversed 
 by intrepid hunters or the still more intrepid prospector, in search of 
 mineral wealth. 
 
 Between the Santa Ynez and the sea lies the unparalleled valley 
 of Santa Barbara. It is about forty-five miles in length, averaging 
 perhaps three miles in width. It contains a matter of some 86,400 
 acres of land. It is this belt which has become noted the world over 
 for its semi-tropical climate and phenomenal fertility. 
 
 The valley of Santa Barbara proper, extending from the Bincon 
 to Point Concepcion, comprises the valley of the Carpinteria, from 
 the Bincon to a small spur of the Santa Ynez called Ortega hill, a dis- 
 tance of about nine miles; the Montecito, from Ortega hill to the 
 city limits, some six miles; the city of Santa Barbara itself , occupying 
 a space fully two miles square and still reaching out on all sides; and 
 eight miles beyond, the small village of Goleta. Beyond Goleta, 
 still following the broad avenue, the great ranchos of Hollister and 
 Cooper, Los Dos Pueblos, Nuestra Senora del Befugio, and other 
 ranchos brings the traveler to the Gaviota Pass, and a few miles be- 
 yond the Pass, Point Concepcion. Here the Santa Y»nez range runs 
 bodily into the Pacific Ocean, and the valley of Santa Barbara comes 
 to an abrupt termination. 
 
 Beyond the Santa Ynez range, beginning near the eastern edge of 
 the county, slowly opens between the Santa Ynez and San Bafael 
 ranges the lovely valley of the Santa Ynez. The Santa Ynez river, 
 running almost due west from its mountain source, parallel with the 
 islands, the channel, Santa Barbara valley and the Santa Ynez moun- 
 tains, waters a wide extent of agricultural lands, and near its mouth 
 runs through the broad valley of Lompoc, emptying at last into the 
 
SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 11 
 
 Pacific, between Point Concepcion and Point Pnrisiina. The towns 
 of Lompoc and Santa Ynez are contained in this valley. 
 
 The next valley, Los Alamos, is watered by an arroyo of the same 
 name, which rises in the Sau Rafael mountains and empties into the 
 Pacific between Point Purisima and Point Sal, though sometimes 
 sinking into the ground and becoming invisible. Los Alamos is a 
 long, narrow valley , scarcely more than two miles wide in its broadest 
 part, and contains but one town, that of Los Alamos. 
 
 The great Santa Maria valley lies upon the northern limits of the 
 county. It is said to contain at least 65,000 acres of tillable land. 
 Tbis is certainly underestimated. The Santa Maria river, forming 
 the northern boundary line of the county, is a continuation of the 
 Cuyama, which waters the valleys of Cuyama in the northeast, the 
 only open portion of the piled up mountain ranges of that quarter. 
 The valley of Santa Maria proper contains the towns of Santa Maria, 
 formerly called Central City, and Guadalupe, near the mouth of the 
 river. 
 
 Three of the channel islands also belong to Santa Barbara County. 
 San Miguel, the most western of the group, is about 2% miles in 
 width, and 7% in length. Santa Rosa contains 53,000 acres and rises 
 to a height of 1,172 feet. Santa Cruz, lying almost opposite the city 
 of Santa Barbara, at a distance of twenty-five miles, contains 52, 700 
 acres, and attains a height of 1,700 feet. 
 
 The county is still divided into the ranchos of the Mexican period. 
 As a matter of special interest, and with the kind permission of Joseph 
 J. Perkins, Esq., of this city, we append hereto the very valuable table 
 compiled by him; showing at a glance these rancho divisions, wit] i 
 their acreage, etc. All lands not enrolled among these ranchos arc 
 either pueblo lands or unsurveyed Government lands. The city oi 
 Santa Barbara and the suburbs of Montecito and Carpinteria are built 
 upon pueblo lands. 
 
SANTA BAEBAKA COUNTY. 
 
 Names of Banc ho*. 
 
 Lompoc and Mislon Vieja dela] 
 
 Purisima 
 
 La Espada y \ Forming Punta de 
 
 El Cojo. > la Coneepcion 
 
 W. y> N uestra Senora del Refugio.. 
 
 San Julian 
 
 Canada de Sal Si Puedes. 
 
 Santa Rosa 
 
 santa Rita 
 
 Mision de la Purisima (Malo 
 South Vy Jesus Maria... 
 
 "-Cuyamsi Nos. 1 and 2 1 » 
 
 *Sney by 
 
 Tepusquet. I Sg" 
 
 Sisquoc r 2t^ 
 
 Tinaquaic I S'n* 
 
 -Punta de la Laguna | ?~% 
 
 ••Guadalupe J S* 
 
 North % Jesus Maria. 
 
 La Laguna 
 
 Los Alamos 
 
 Toclos Santos 
 
 Casmalia 
 
 J s*« 
 
 San Carlos de Jonata 1 '£ 
 
 Corral de Quati j tp 
 
 LaZaca -q 
 
 Canada de Los Pinos | S 
 
 San Marcos ! § 
 
 Tequepis j m 
 
 Los Prietos y Najalayegua | £• 
 
 Las Loraas de la Purificacion t 
 
 Nojoqui ■%• 
 
 Las Cmces (two leagues) I r- 
 
 East % Nestra Senora del Re- ") ^ID 
 fugio 9. ?= g 
 
 Canada del Corral 
 
 Los Los Pueblos 
 
 Las Positas y La Calera 
 
 Santa Rosa Island 
 
 ■r. o P £ 
 
 Santa Cruz Island J 
 
 A cres. 
 
 46,499 04-100 
 
 24,992 04-100 
 13,265 
 
 18,221 
 6,656 21-100 
 
 16,525 
 
 13,316 
 34 012 
 
 20,000 
 
 55-100 
 05-100 
 56-100 
 
 233,487 45-100 
 
 71,020 75-100 
 48,834 
 
 8,900 
 35,485 90-100 
 
 8,874 60-100 
 26,648 42-100 
 43.681 85-100 
 
 243,44-5 52-100 
 
 22,184 93-100 
 48,703 91-100 
 48.803 38-100 
 20,772 17-100 
 8,841 21-100 
 
 149,305 60-100 
 
 26,634 31-100 
 13,322 29-100 
 
 4,458 10-100 
 .3-5,499 
 35,573 10-100 
 
 8,919 
 48,728 67-100 
 13,341 39-100 
 13-284 
 
 8,888 
 
 208,647 86-100 
 
 13,264 
 
 8,875 
 15,534 76-100 
 
 3,281 70-100 
 62,696 49-100 
 52,760 33-100 
 
 156,412 28-100 
 
 Cattle. 
 
 950 
 
 Sheep. 
 
 2,000 
 
 1,400 
 
 Stock in eluded 
 Julian. 
 
 Stock in 
 Julian. 
 
 78 
 50 
 
 200 
 
 3,000 
 
 200 
 . 660 
 1,200 
 
 300 
 1,-500 
 
 6,860 
 
 300 
 250 
 .500 
 200 
 150 
 
 J, 400 
 
 100 
 
 Stock in 
 
 1.114 
 
 '300 
 
 Stock in 
 
 Stock in 
 
 200 
 
 1,000 
 
 1.315 
 
 100 
 
 4.129 
 
 ,-500 
 
 64,703 
 eluded 
 
 17,000 
 
 8.000 
 4,000 
 
 95,703 
 
 250 
 4,200 
 
 •500 
 4,000 
 5.000 
 
 13,950 
 
 6,000 
 
 10,000 
 
 2.5.000 
 
 3,000 
 
 6,000 
 
 -ii.OtiO 
 
 1.590 
 c'd'd w'h 
 
 3,100 
 
 2,000 
 
 c'd'd w'h 
 
 c'd'd w'h 
 
 None. 
 
 3,000 
 
 5,9.50 
 
 5,900 
 
 21.750 
 
 22.200 
 
 29,000 
 
 27,000 
 
 2, r 00 I 78,200 
 
 Hors 
 
 500 
 
 40 
 
 with San 
 
 with San 
 
 20 
 
 200 
 
 50 
 
 837 
 
 40 
 
 200 
 
 19 
 
 60 
 
 300 
 
 300 
 
 919 
 
 20 
 100 
 300 
 50 
 25 
 
 495 
 
 100 
 La Zaca. 
 
 20 
 
 50 
 Xojoqui. 
 Xojoqui. 
 
 20 
 
 10 
 
 88 
 
 50 
 
 338 
 
 2-50 
 
 100 
 
 -Portions of the Guadalupe, Punta de la Laguna, Suey and the Cuyamas ex- 
 tend into San Luis Obispo county, but the full acreage is given here as repre- 
 sented by the U. S. patent. 
 
SANTA BARBAE A COUNTY. 13 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 CLIMATE — EEPQBTS OF DE. NELSON AND DE. LOGAN — TESTIMONY OF 
 OTHEE PHYSICIANS AND VISITORS . 
 
 nvfT is impossible to say anything new about the climate of Santa 
 £jy Barbara. That it rains, sometimes, in the winter, that snow never 
 falls, that even frost is a rarity , — all these things have been told a 
 thousand times. Tables of temperature and rainfall, with other inter- 
 esting matter, will be found at the end of this pamphlet. The figures 
 tell the story as well as figures can. But it must be considered that 
 not only these tables, but the printed praises of hosts of visitors, ap- 
 ply simply to the narrow strip of land noted as the valley of Santa 
 Barbara proper, which lies south of the Santa Ynez mountains. Above 
 Point Concepcion, the climate is colder and more moist. There the 
 summer trade winds blow, from which this valley is protected by the 
 mountainous islands in front and the mountain ranges behind it. The 
 islands also intercept, to some extent, the rain-bearing winds of winter. 
 The climate is still further modified by a warm ocean current flowing 
 along the county's southern border. The interior valleys have an 
 atmosphere remarkably dry and pure which in some diseases has been 
 found of incalculable benefit. By the tables of rainfall for the past 
 fifteen years, it will be seen that the amount is subject to great varia- 
 tion. It is in fact proverbial that no two years are alike. The pres- 
 ent season (1883-4) has been the severest known for thirty years, 34. 7G 
 inches having fallen in this valley up to the first of May. 
 
 In order to "see ourselves as others see us," the remainder of 
 this chapter will be devoted to the statements of the best authorities 
 on climatology in its relation to disease; also the impressions of a few 
 distinguished visitors. 
 
 Dr. Wolfred Nelson, C. M., M. D., Member of the College of 
 Physicians and Surgeons, Quebec, Canada, at present U. S. Consul 
 at Panama, South America, published an exhaustive article in the 
 Planet, from which the following extracts are taken : 
 
 "This small but charming seaside city is probably the best known 
 of all California resorts. Its fame, both for health and residence, is 
 world-wide. * * * Owing to the bend of the Coast range of 
 mountains to the north of the city and the nearer foot-hills, it is all 
 but closed in by them. Many of the mountains, some distance back 
 of the city, are 3,000 or 4,000 feet high. The valuable protection 
 they afford the place will be appreciated at once by the medical mind. 
 The}' deprive cold and damp winds oi their moisture by filtering the 
 air; hot breezes from the sandy plains, or the California desert of the 
 olden writers, are likewise tempered by taking up a little moisture. 
 They stand faithful sentinels to watch over the spot. * * * Owing 
 
14: SAXTA BARBARA COUNTY. 
 
 to its geographical position, lying in a bend on the coast, the moun- 
 tains to the north modify sea breezes and wind. Looking seaward, 
 we see that its own coast is protected by the beautiful islands in the 
 Santa Barbara channel. The large and mountainous islands of Santa 
 Cruz and Santa Eosa, lie all but opposite, they are some miles out, 
 and with others of the group form a protecting barrier that lessens 
 the force of the vast rollers as they flow in from the grand old Pacific. 
 * * * Santa Barbara has sprung into general fame within the 
 last fifteen years, and now takes front rank, and deservedly so, as a 
 health resort, and watering place. It has been selected by many ex- 
 perienced travelers as a home, both for residence and health; the 
 scores upon scores of comfortable homes in the city, as well as the 
 cosy suburban villas in the Montecito, surrounded by their sub-tropi- 
 cal trees, plants and flowers, say more for its healthfulness and de- 
 lightful climate, than any mere verbal description can attempt. In 
 that it is not expensive, it offers many inducements to those of easy 
 or small means, who wish to settle down. The country itself and its 
 environs have to be seen, ami its climate experienced, to be awarded 
 their due meed of praise. * * * A great deal has been written 
 .well and ably on the climatology of Southern California, but it will 
 stand all the descriptions that have appeared hitherto, and still have 
 a handsome balance in its favor for future writers, medical and 
 lay. None know better than medical men than no one spot suits 
 all classes of cases, or that no given climate is perfect. Patients 
 must visit places like those now under consideration — and judge for 
 themselves. It is to be presumed that all such leave home under 
 medical advice. Their physicians will be able to say, generally, 
 whether a stay on the sea-coast, or in the valleys or mountains of 
 California, will be best suited to their cases. Sea air is often too 
 stimulating for some pulmonary cases, while it agrees perfectly with 
 others. Heat and a little moisture suit some cases very well, as we 
 know, while the same agents exercise a pernicious influence on others. 
 
 Should mountain air be necessary, patients can visit the Ojai 
 Valley, fifteen miles away from Santa Barbara, easily reached by 
 the very comfortable line of stages of Mr. Bundell's line. There they 
 can camp out or live at the hotel — 2,000 feet above sea level. The 
 Ojai Valley, however, is too important as a mountain sanitarium to 
 be dismissed with this curt notice. It will be embodied in the next 
 letter. There are hot sulphur springs six miles from Santa Barbara, 
 very easy of access, in a canon, with an hotel and bathing establish- 
 ment. Board — including bathing — is some §14.00 a week. They are 
 visited frequently by the residents as well as visitors. Apropos of 
 board in Santa Barbara — it varies all the way from 87.50 to 818.00 per 
 week, fires, when necessary on cold or chilly days, extra. 
 
 For centuries Mexico has had an unequalled reputation for all 
 
SANTA BAEBABA COUNTY. 15 
 
 pulmonary and bronchial cases. California was originally a part of 
 Mexico, the Southern part of the State on the coast joins the Mexican 
 frontier — ten miles south of San Diego. It will thus be seen that 
 California has inherited its good name for health. Many, many are 
 living there now, as well as in various parts of the United States of 
 America, who are indebted to its salubrious atmosphere for extended 
 lives, and in other cases, a complete arrest of disease. Some far seeing 
 people who have the hereditary tendency to phthisis, have sought such a 
 climate with a view of aborting it in their children. That their fore- 
 thought evinces the soundest judgment we must admit. There sick 
 and well can almost live out of doors, constantly inhaling pure air. 
 Under favorable circumstances, health is expected as a logical se- 
 quence. The days are enjoyable and the nights are cool; occasion- 
 ally during the winter a fire may be necessary. Cool nights mean re- 
 freshing slumber. 
 
 It is far from the writer's intention to paint Santa Barbara as a 
 perfect paradise on earth — such spots exists only in the mind of the 
 poet. It, in common with all health resorts, has its drawbacks. Fogs 
 at times, and occasional sand-storms, now and then very hot clays (but 
 not in the season), and once in a while cold, chilly days in winter t 
 with a touch of frost. But even they have their advantages, as they 
 remind one that there is no heaven on earth. Once over, the visitor 
 or resident doubly appreciates his happy surroundings. 
 
 The "season'" for visitors, sick and well, lasts from October to 
 April or May, depending in a great measure on the severity, or early 
 approach of winter in the Eastern States and Canada. Winter in 
 Southern California extends from December to April, and means a 
 small amount of rain, when good Dame Nature appears in her most 
 becoming mantle of green, whose vivid hues are increased by wild 
 flowers." 
 
 Dr. Thomas M. Logan, ex-President of the American Medical 
 Association, and Secretary of the State Board of Health, made a state- 
 ment in favor of Santa Barbara as a suitable place for a State Sanita- 
 rium. In his first official report, published in 1871, occurs the 
 following: "The Secretary informed the Board that he had been 
 occupied of late in visiting several localities in the southern part of 
 the State, noted for salubrity, as San Rafael, Santa Ciuz, Monterey, 
 San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara and other places. * * * While 
 most of the localities named are possessed of climatic elements adapted 
 to different stages and characters of pulmonary diseases, that of Santa 
 Barbara appeared to present that happy combination of the tonic and 
 sedative climate, which would seem to render it suitable to a greater 
 variety of phthisical affections, and at the same time better adapted to 
 the different stages of cachexia than any other place visited. For this 
 
16 
 
 SANTA BAEBARA COUNTY. 
 
 reason he had pronounced it the most fitting point for a Sani- 
 tarium in California." 
 
 An article was prepared by Dr. Logan for the Scientific Press, 
 giving a popular account of those leading features of the prevailing 
 atmospheric constitution of the place, as modified by the physical 
 conformation, and which go to make up what is here understood by 
 the word "climate." In this article Dr. Logan says: "The very con- 
 formation and topography of this section, while it explains the 
 cause, speaks to the intelligent reader of a climate that cannot be 
 otherwise than even, mild and soft, and at the same time invigorating, 
 with the moist but refreshing sea breezes which the thirsty land 
 sucks in. In vain, heretofore, since my appointment to the respon- 
 sible position of Health Officer to the State, have I sought for such a 
 combination of sanitary qualities as are now presented. Here, in this 
 mountain and island-locked valley, rising but a few feet from the blue 
 waters of the grand old Pacific, all the prerequisites of health are to 
 be found in measure so profuse that I would be accused of poetic ex- 
 travagance were they duly portrayed. * * * As to the climate of 
 Santa Barbara, it will be seen that, although lying in about the same 
 Utitude as Charleston, S. C, yet it is totally different, and that the 
 isothermal line would be deflected towards St. Augustine, Florida." 
 
 Dr. BrinkerhofF, for more than twenty years a practicing phy- 
 sician of Santa Barbara, a man of a peculiarly philosophic and 
 thoughtful temperament, offered some years before his death the fol- 
 lowing suggestions, which were incorporated in Dr. Logan's report: 
 "Some ten miles from Santa Barbara, in the bed of the ocean, about 
 one and a half miles from the shore, is an immense spring of petro- 
 leum, the product of which continually rises to the surface and floats 
 upon it over an area of many miles. This mineral oil may be seen 
 any day from the deck of the steamers plying between here and San 
 Francisco, or from the high banks along the 'shore. Having read 
 statements that during the past few years the authorities of Damascus 
 and other plague-ridden cities of the East have resorted to the prac- 
 tice of introducing crude petroleum into the gutters of the streets to 
 disinfect the air, and as a preventive of disease, which practice has 
 been attempted with the most favorable results, I throw out the sug- 
 gestion whether the prevailing sea breezes, passing over this wide 
 expanse of petroleum, may not take up and bear along some subtle 
 power which serves as a disinfecting agent, and which may account 
 for the infrequency of some of the diseases referred to, and possibly 
 for the superior heal thf ulness of the climate of Santa Barbara." 
 
 The freedom of Santa Barbara from epidemics, and its general 
 healthfulness has been testified to, again and again. Dr. Brinkerhoff 
 thus alludes to the facts' of his own experience: "That the climate of 
 Santa Barbara possesses elements of general healthfulness in an 
 
SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 17 
 
 eminent degree, and perhaps, also, some latent peculiarities in its 
 favor too subtle for ordinary observation, I may instance the follow- 
 ing facts in this connection: During the eighteen years of my active 
 practice here, I have never known a single case of scarlet fever or 
 diphtheria. I have known of only three cases of dysentery, neither 
 of which proved fatal; and of only three cases of membranous croup. 
 The epidemics and diseases incident to childhood, which in other 
 parts of the country sweep away thousands of children annually, are 
 here comparatively unknown. Cases of fever and ague I have never 
 known originating here, and persons coming here afflicted- with it, 
 rarely have more than two or three attacks, even without the use of 
 auti-periodics. I have known instances of smallpox at three different 
 times. In each of the first two instances, occurring several years 
 apart, the disease was confined to a single case, and was contracted 
 elsewhere. Neither of these cases proved fatal. In the year 1864, 
 when the disease prevailed so extensively, and proved so fatal through- 
 out the State, there were two cases contracted elsewhere and devel- 
 oped here, both of which proved fatal. Three other persons residing 
 here contracted the disease from contagion at this time, all of whom 
 recovered. Although no unusual precaution was taken to prevent 
 the spread of the disease, it was confined to the cases mentioned. In 
 the years 18G9-70, when this disease, in its most virulent form, pre- 
 vailed so generally throughout the State, not a single case occurred 
 at Santa Barbara, although in daily communication with other points 
 of the State by stage and steamer." 
 
 Dr. M. H. Biggs, for many years resident in Santa Barbara, and 
 now a leading physician in Valparaiso, Chili, in his report to the State 
 Medical Society, on the "Vital Statistics and Medical Topography of 
 Santa Barbara," corroborates the testimony of Dr. BrinkerhofT in 
 every respect. He says: "There are no malarious fevers. Persons 
 who come here afflicted with fever and ague, rarely have more than 
 two or three attacks. They soon become well, often without the use 
 of anti-periodics. The climate seems sufficient to cure the malady. 
 During a residence of over eighteen years, I have seen only one case 
 of membranous croup, and heard of two others. There is no disease 
 endemic to Santa Barbara — nothing but what can usually be referred, 
 either directly or indirectly, to some indiscretion in eating or drink- 
 ing, or unreasonable exposure." 
 
 Dr. E. N. Wood, the author of the first "Guide to Santa Barbara," 
 published in 1872, says: "There are essentially two climates in Cali- 
 fornia — the land and the sea climate. The latter derives its low and 
 even temperature from the ocean, which along the coast stands at 52° 
 to 54° through the year. The summers are hotter in the north. One 
 might travel from Santa Barbara northward in summer for 300 miles, 
 and find it hotter everywhere than here, or go southeast the same 
 
18 SANTA BARBAKA COUNTY. 
 
 distance to Fort Yuma, one of the hottest places in the world. * * * 
 In speaking of the "rainy season" we do not mean a season of constant 
 rains, or anything like it. The term is employed only in contrast 
 with the dry season and implies the possibility of rain rather than its 
 actual occurrence. In this county, even in the seasons of most rain, 
 by far the larger part of the winter is bright and clear weather. It is 
 usually regarded as the most pleasant part of the year. It is spring 
 rather than winter, and most of the rain falls at night. The grass 
 starts as soon as the soil is wet, and at Christmas the land is covered 
 with green. The climate is always kindly. We are not troubled by 
 the hot, exhausting days of the Eastern summer, which have no res- 
 pite at night. * * * We have no thunder storms, and the showers 
 must needs be short and gentle that aggregate only twelve inches a 
 year. Frorn April to December there is no rain and one day is as 
 another — bright, beautiful and life-giving. The gentle sea breeze is 
 tonic and invigorating, and relieves the climate from enervation. The 
 days combine the freshness of early spring in the Atlantic States with 
 the softness and dreaminess of the Indian summer, and every day is a 
 new delight. If one thinks of this continuing all the year with hardly 
 twenty days' exception, he cannot doubt that Santa Barbara has a 
 climate as nearly perfect as can be found." 
 
 Rev. J. W. Hough, D. D., writes as follows : "It is only just 
 beginning to be known that Southern California has a climate whose 
 dryness, uniformity, freedom from malaria, general tonic properties 
 and fitness for outdoor life, alike in summer and winter, make it the 
 sanitarium of the Western Continent for consumptives, and I might 
 add, an admirable camping ground for the great army of over-worked, 
 debilitated, nervous, sleepless men and women, whose ranks are 
 constantly recruited by the devotees of business and fashion in 
 Eastern cities. * * * In Southern California one may 
 choose his climate. I have described the whole region as dry, mild 
 and equable ; but some points excel in dryness, and others in 
 equability. One may live on the sea shore at Santa Barbara or San 
 Diego, or in the interior at Riverside; he may live on the plain at Los 
 Angeles, or among the mountains back of San Bernardino. He may 
 greatly vary his climate within a much smaller range. Here, in the 
 town of Santa Barbara, in the Hot Springs canon six miles distant, 
 on the summit of the Santa Ynez mountains, twelve miles away, and 
 at the newly discovered springs at the opposite foot of the range, 
 twenty miles distant, are four quite different climates, the difference 
 being effected by change in the altitude and distance from the sea. 
 
 * * * "See Naples and die," say the proud Neapolitans, 
 "Come to Santa Barbara and live," say the equally contented 
 Barbarehos." 
 
 Mr. J. C. Culbertson, in a letter to the New York Tribune, writes 
 
SANTA BAKBAEA COUNTY. 19 
 
 as follows : "Daring the winter there are twice the number of days 
 on which an invalid or pleasure seeker can enjoy a walk in the 
 sunshine that he would find at Pau, Nice, Mentone, Naples or Rome. 
 This I know from years of personal experience. In these places the sum- 
 mer sunshine is almost unendurable, whilst in Santa Barbara it is the 
 pleasantest season of the year. If the day is too hot, one has only to 
 seek the shade and he will be fanned by a gentle breeze from the 
 grand old Pacific. If too cool, he has only to step into the sunshine 
 to be comfortable. However hot the days may be, the nights are 
 always cool. Take the climate of Santa Barbara, with its rainy 
 season and its dry season, its foggy days and its windy days, there 
 are not more than twenty out of the 355 in which an invalid may not 
 enjoy a walk in tha sunshine some part of the day. And considering 
 its winter, summer, spring and autumn together, I am sure there is 
 not a spot on the civilized globe that will equal it in equability of 
 climate and grand scenery and surroundings. But I would say to 
 invalids : If you are far gone in consumption you need hardly expect 
 to be cured anywhere; but by coming here and taking very great 
 care of yourselves you may live a few months or years longer than 
 elsewhere." 
 
 Ex-Governor Fenton, of New York, says of Santa Barbara: "It 
 would hardly be poetic extravagance to say it is a fairy-like scene of 
 land and sky, as inviting as this good earth can well be, 
 with the fruits and flowers of a perpetual summer. * * * Its 
 fascinations, especially as a health resort, it is not easy to overstate. 
 * * * Speaking for myself, I confess that I overlook the draw- 
 backs of a residence here, obviously there are some, for the climate, 
 than which there can be no better. * * * Why not, when from 
 my own observation in Florida, in Texas, the south of France and 
 the world-renowned Italy, I can say, this climate at least excels them 
 all !" 
 
 The Princess Louise of England, and her husband, the Marquis of 
 Lome, were free in their expressions of enjoyment of the beauty, rest 
 and quiet of Santa Barbara. Their intention was but to remain a few 
 days, but the time was extended to a fortnight, during which thev drove 
 or walked about town daily, the Princess sketching points of interest. 
 They were especially pleased with the manners of the people, who 
 allowed them to amuse themselves in their own way without 
 intrusion. 
 
 Bishop John F. Hurst, D. D.,LL. D., says: "You are sure to 
 be conquered in California. If you do not surrender at one place, 
 you will have to do it at another. In the North you can resist very 
 well, even in the l^osemite; but you are in hopeless danger if you' 
 drift southward and sunward. * * * and that fair place over- 
 looking the sea they call Santa Barbara, after her of wondrous beauty, 
 
20 SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 
 
 who lived in the prison tower for her faith's sake, and died for it in 
 savage old Bithynia." 
 
 Judge Freelon, of San Francisco, in a letter to a losal journal 
 says: "The idea that Mr. Nordhoff or anybody else has ever 
 exaggerated the charms of Santa Barbara is preposterous! Many 
 have tried to say something adequate on the subject and have failed 
 ignominious ly. Nobody yet has had the genius to portray Santa 
 Barbara!" 
 
 Mr. J. R. G. Hassard, a staff correspondent of the New Yoik 
 Tribune, who spent several months in this country, says of Santa 
 Barbara: "A placid little nook of ocean seems to have been provided 
 by nature,, where the sun shines almost always and the hurly-burly 
 of traffic and speculation is hushed." 
 
 Testimony such as the foregoing can be gathered by the ton. It 
 is a temptation to the writer to linger among the pleasant sayings and 
 appreciative letters of such travelers. But a more practical duty lies 
 before us, to enumerate the advantages which are calculated to win 
 honest settlers, who may or may not feel any sympathy with the invalid 
 class to whom this chapter is especially dedicated. 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 MEANS OF ACCESS — POPULATION — COUNTY PEOPEETT AND DEBT — SCHOOL 
 DISTRICTS AND THE SCHOOL CENSUS — MISCELLANEOUS STATISTICS. 
 
 ?f|^HE means of access to Santa Barbara areas yet mainly limited to 
 jg the ax^proach by sea. The steamers of the Pacific Coast Steam- 
 ship Co., Goodall, Perkins & Co., Agents, San Francisco, make regular 
 trips — through steamers alternating with others that touch at several 
 way ports. The through steamers, which touch only at Port Harford 
 before reaching Santa Barbara, are the new and magnificent Santa 
 Rosa, which has just been placed on the route, and the old favorite 
 Orizaba. They sail alternately every five days from San Francisco, 
 making the trip in about 30 hours. The Eureka and the Los Angeles 
 sail alternately with the others, making a service of about fourteen 
 steamers every month. But these latter boats carry freight mainly, 
 to and from Santa Barbara, as they call at several ports each way, 
 making the voyage somewhat longer for passengers. Freight steamers 
 call at Carpinteria and Goleta, when sufficient freight is offered, as in 
 the harvest season. The fare from San Francisco to Santa Bar- 
 bara, and vice versa, is 810.00 in the cabin and $7.50 in the 
 steerage. The steamers are all made as comfortable as possible, with 
 experienced officers and obliging attendants. Besides the regular ser- 
 
J3A&TA BARBARA COUNTY. 
 
 21 
 
 ViCe^ freight steamers, carrying combustibles, etc., sail every week 
 for southern ports. The ticket agent of the company in Santa Barba- 
 ra is X. A,. NorCross; toe local freight agent, John P. Stearns. 
 
 5For those who dislike a voyage 'by sea> several alternatives are of- 
 fered, A daily stage to Newhall via Ventura,, carries the nlail and 
 connects with the Southern Pacific R. R., for San Francisco-, or tot 
 Los Angeles, and from thence to Arizona and the East. There is also 
 a daily accommodation stage to Ventura, a distance of thirty miles. 
 To Newhall from Santa Barbara is about 85 miles. Many travelers 
 going East prefer to take the steamer to Los Angeles, and from thence 
 begin their long journey across the continent, by one of the southern 
 transcontinental roads. Going north, a daily stage connects with the 
 cars at Los Alamos*, stages at San Luis, cars again at Soledad, to San 
 Francisco. This is a particularly pleasant trip in the proper season * 
 as it passes through some of the finest scenery in Southern California; 
 The cars from Los Alamos also extend to the wharf at Port Har 1 
 ford s connecting with steamers up and down the coast. 
 
 The county is well supplied with Wharves to facilitate cotnfainni* 
 cation by sea. Beside those on Santa CrUz and Santa Rosa ialaiidSj 
 there is a wharf at Point Sal, the shipping point for Guadalupe and 
 the Santa Maria valley; the Schute Landing on the Casmalia rancho; 
 one on the Jesus Maria rancho and one at Purisima; one at La Es- 
 pada and another at Gaviota, for the Santa Ynez valley, San Julian, 
 etc.; at More's landing for La Patera and vicinity; Stearns' wharf at 
 Santa Barbara and Smith's wharf at Carpinteria. All the landings 
 below Point Coneepcion are available in any weather, for although 
 the so-called harbor is little more than an open roadstead, the islands- 
 protect it from the violence of kcary storms, 
 
 It cannot be denied that many have been deterred from settling 
 here by reason of a lack of railways. For years the county has been 
 vibrating between hopes of a railroad and fears of its effects. Peri- 
 odical attempts have been made to induce some of the great corpora- 
 tions to build in this direction. In several instances we have almost 
 heard the sound of the whistle piercing these mountain barriers — 
 almost looked to see the smoky streamers of the locomotive descending 
 to the sea. We have had railroad committees to make arrangements, 
 and railroad engineers to report upon a practicable route— but no 
 railroad, except the narrow gauge now resting on its laurels at Los 
 Alamos. This will probably achieve the city in due course of time* 
 But to satisfy in any degree the coming population, to whom railroads 
 seem a matter of meat and drink, nothing will serve but a grand 
 transcontinental, broad gauge, trunk line from the eastern seaboard, 
 and a coast line from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego! Yet there are old 
 residents who do not scruple to say that the bustle of coming and going 
 
2- SANTA BAKBAEA COUNTY. 
 
 trains, with their inevitable consequents, will take half the charms 
 from this quiet valley. 
 
 In 1870, the population of Santa Barbara county, which then 
 included Ventura, was given in the census reports at 7,987. In 1872 
 the county was divided, and in 1880 the census for Santa Barbara 
 alone showed a population of 9,513. As a proof that the number is 
 still increasing, reference is made to the school reports and the Great 
 Register of the county. In 1879 the number of registered voters was 
 2,384; in 1882 it was 2,573; now, in 1884, it is estimated by the County 
 Clerk, (no Great Register having been printed since 1882) to be at 
 least 2,600 in round numbers, probably more rather than less. This 
 shows a healthy increase. If the voting part of the population is, 
 as commouly estimated, about one-fifth of the whole, the county may 
 reasonably claim a population of nearly 13,000 souls. 
 
 According to the last report of the Superintendent of Schools for 
 the year ending June 30, 1884, the number of children between five 
 and seventeen years of age, amounts to 3,445; the number of school 
 districts, 40. [This might be compared with the report of 1879, when 
 there were but 30 school districts and 2,976 children of school age.] 
 There are 13 Negro and 20 Indian children, counted with the above. 
 In addition, the report notes 47 Mongolian children of school age, 
 who are not allowed the benefit of the schools. The following are 
 the names of the school districts, with the number of the school 
 children in each : Agricola, 34; Artesia, 66; Ballards, 26; Bells, 
 84; Bear Creek, 27; Carpinteria, 113; Casmalia, 30; Cathedral 
 Oaks, 66; Central, 99; College, 70; Dos Pueblos, 28; Guadalupe, 112; 
 Honda, 16; Hope, 56; Jonata, 21; Las Cruces, 42; Los Alamos, 30; 
 Lompoc, 195; Maple, 53; Miguelito, 23: Mission, 96; Montecito, 174; 
 Najoqui, 19; Oak Vale, 38; Ocean, 59; Pine Grove, 41; Pleasant 
 Valley, 40; Point Sal, 16; Purisima, 22; Rafaela, 78; Bincon, 80; 
 Santa Barbara, 1,258; Santa Maria, 94; Santa Rita, 43; Suey, 44; 
 Sisquoo, 23; Washington, 32; Laguna, 19; La Graciosa, 52; La Pate- 
 ra, 36. 
 
 The county has outstanding bonds to the amount of 846,500. 
 Cash in the treasury, $34,318.75, to be devoted to the county's cur- 
 rent expenses. The value of property belonging to the county, in- 
 cluding a handsome brick Court House, is about 885,000. Last year 
 the rate of taxation for the State and County was 81.694 on each 8100; 
 for the city, 85 cents.' Legal interest is 7 per cent.; but the contract 
 system prevails in this State, and money can be loaned upon good 
 security at 10 or 12 per cent, per annum. This is a decided reduction 
 from the rates of ten years ago, and it is probable that as the country 
 becomes more settled and prosperous, interest upon money will still 
 further decline. 
 
SAKTA BARBARA COUNTY. 2B 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE CITY OF SANTA BARBARA. 
 
 iprRONTING the southeast, the city of Santa Barbara lies upon a 
 ^»|| sloping plateau, which, attaining within two miles a height of 
 300 feet, affords ample facilities for drainage. To the right, as the 
 traveler lands upon Stearns' wharf, he sees the apparently low foot- 
 hills, nestling at the base of a rugged mountain range that seems to 
 bound the horizon; to the left, the mesa or table land, rising boldly 
 f rom the plain and terminating abruptly in the foreground in the pic- 
 turesque and often painted Punta del Castillo, sometimes incorrectly 
 called Castle Rock. Between these, with the white towers of the Old 
 Mission shining in the background, the beautiful city is outspread, 
 covering a space of about two miles square, and laid out in generous 
 blocks of 450x450 feet. It is a city of gardens. Every modest cottage 
 is overrun with roses or covered by clambering vines, or encompassed 
 with trees and tropic foliage, and blooming shrubs from every quar- 
 ter of the globe. The garden of Dr. L. N. Dimmick, on De la Vina 
 street, is especially noted for its collection of curious and interesting 
 plants, translated from the most widely varying climates. Many of 
 the streets are bordered with the graceful pepper tree, the elegant 
 grevillea or the giant eucalyptus. Trees are subject to fashion, like 
 everything else, and many varieties have had their day; but the beau- 
 tiful pepper tree was the first love of Santa Barbara, and still holds its 
 own against all comers. It is a tree beloved of artists and is sure of 
 immortality upon canvass, at least. 
 
 Santa Barbara is an incorporated city of about 5,000 inhabitants. 
 The present incumbents of the chief municipal offices are: Geo. W, 
 Coffin, Mayor; J. R. Vance, Councilman for the First Ward; A. F. 
 McPhail, Second Ward; J. N. Johnson, Third Ward; G. W. Leland, 
 Fourth Ward, and I. K. Fisher for the Filth Ward. The City Hall is 
 a handsome brick building standing upon a small central plaza. In 
 addition to rooms for the accommodation of the Council, City Clerk, 
 etc., it provides quarters for the fire companies, two in number, a 
 hook-and-ladder company, and "Washington No. 2" Engine Co., the 
 latter company proud in the possession of a 84000 nickel-plated en- 
 gine, which is mainly ornamental, as fires seldom occur. The princi- 
 pal buildings upon State street, the main business street of the city, 
 are lit with gas, furnished by the Santa Barbara Gas Co. Water is 
 freely distributed to all parts of the city through the mains of the Mis- 
 sion Water Co. This water is drawn from a clear mountain stream 
 which descends through a narrow, picturesque canon north of the 
 city, called Mission Canon, a resort in the season for picnic parties 
 and excursionists who love Dame Nature in deshabille. 
 
 The public schools are of the first order; these in the Third and 
 
 \ 
 
24 
 
 SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 
 
 Fifth Wards occupy fine roomy buildings, and all are supplied 
 with excellent teachers. For all these reasons, private schools do not 
 flourish. The only educational establishment of any size outside the 
 public schools, is the St. Vincent orphan asylum, established in 1858, 
 taught by the good Sisters, whose devotion to the cause of charity is 
 understood and admired by Protestants as well as Catholics. 
 
 The city contains a fair proportion of church-going people, and 
 several handsome clmrch edifices. The largest congregation is that 
 of the Catholic faith. Beside the Parish Church, on the corner of 
 State and Figueroa streets, under the supervision of Eev. Father 
 James "Villa, services are held in the old Mission Church, by the Fran- 
 ciscan friars. Trinity Church (Episcopal) stands on Gutierrez street, 
 Eev. John Bakewell, D. D., Hector. The Congregational Church, on 
 Santa Barbara street, between Cota and Ortega, Bev. C. S. Yaile, pas- 
 tor. The Presbyterian Church, on State street, is under the minis- 
 terial charge of Bev. M. L. E. Hill. Bev. A. W. Jackson preaches 
 to a Unitarian congregation in Unity Chapel, on State street. Bev. 
 "W. A. Knighten is pastor of the Methodist Episcopal Church on De 
 la Guerra street, and Bev. Dr. Nisbet supplies the Baptist Church 
 on Micheltorena street. 
 
 In respect to hotels, Santa Barbara claims a just precedence over all 
 the other cities of Southern California. The Arlington, undoubtedly 
 the finest, is really a magnificent house, thoroughly appreciated by 
 tourists, under the management of W. N. Cowles. The Ellwood, late- 
 ly opened to the public, is a roomy, comfortable, home-like hotel, 
 managed by M. E. Hunt. The well known Morris House, J. F. Mor- 
 ris, proprietor, and the Occidental, C. H. Fiske, proprietor, are both 
 handsome, well-furnished and pox^ular hotels. The price of board at the 
 different hotels varies from $6 to §20 per week, the latter price command- 
 ing an elegantlv furnished apartment at the Arlington. Excellent meals 
 can be obtained at Baffour's French Bestaurant and the Central Bes- 
 tanrant. The proprietors of both can also furnish comfortable rooms 
 for lodgers. There are several excellent chop-houses, coffee-houses, 
 etc., where meals can be obtained for from 15 to 25 cents. These also 
 deal in oysters, cooked to order, during the proper season. A num- 
 ber of private boarding and lodging houses, in different parts of the 
 city, offer the very best accommodations to quiet guests, at varying 
 prices. 
 
 Street cars run from the wharf to the Arlington. A popular 
 mode of locomotion is the 'bus; several of these vehicles ply in all 
 directions, or will even take parties upon short excursions. Fine 
 hacks and carriages abound. Stylish livery turnouts and saddle 
 horses can be obtained at reasonable prices at the following stables: 
 Victoria Stables, J. N.- Johnson; Arlington Stables, D.W.Thomp- 
 son; Occident Stables, G. \V. Leland; Champion Stables, A. F. Mc- 
 
SANTA BAEBABA COUNTY. 25 
 
 Phail; Fashion Stables, O. M. Covarrubias, and the Black Hawk 
 Stables, D. W. Martin. 
 
 Wells, Fargo & Co.'s Express office is on State street; A. O. Per- 
 kins, agent. The Postoffice is a money order office, and P. J. Barber 
 the reigning Postmaster. The Western Union Telegraph office is 
 managed by Miss J. A. Norcross, and is opposite the Postoffice. 
 There are two banks, the First National, W. W. Hollister, President, 
 and A. L. Lincoln, Cashier; the Santa Barbara County National, W. 
 M. Eddy, President, and E. S. Sheffield, Cashier. 
 
 Two news}Dapers provide the citizens with daily reports from the 
 outside world. The Independent is published every day, Sundays 
 included, and a weekly edition Saturdays, by the Independent Pub- 
 lishing Co., George P. Tebbetts, Manager. The Press, daily, except 
 Sundays, and weekly, by W. G. Kinsell. 
 
 Societies flourish. The following are the names of Lodges: 
 Santa Barbara, F. and A. M. ; Magnolia, F. and A. M. ; Corinthian 
 Chapter, R. A. M.; Marguerite Chapter, Order Eastern Star; Chan- 
 nel City Lodge, I. O. O. F.; Santa Barbara Lodge, I. O. O. F.; Sea- 
 side Lodge, I. O. G. T.; Santa Barbara Lodge, I. O. G. T.; Santa 
 Barbara Lodge, Knights of Pythias; Santa Barbara Lodge, A. O. U. 
 W.; Ocean Yiew Council O. C. F. ; Santa Barbara Council, A. L. H.; 
 Starr King Post, G. A. B. The Santa Barbara Guard is commanded 
 by Captain P. L. Moore. The W. C. T. U. have pleasant rooms on 
 State street. Two Clubs, the Union and the Pioneer, have rooms 
 handsomely fitted up, one in the First National Bank building and the 
 other in the Odd Fellows' Building. There is a local circle of Cha- 
 tauquans, a flourishing Natural History Society, Horticultural and 
 Agricultural Societies. The two latter societies are very active and 
 progressive, and their fairs are invariably occasions of s|oecial inter- 
 est. Lobero's Theatre would do credit to a larger city than Santa 
 Barbara, holding an audience of 1,200, with a fine roomy stage and 
 provided with a fair amount of scenery. There are several associa- 
 tions of musicians, brass and string bands, orchestras, etc., whose 
 members are much given to the practice of serenading. Almost any 
 pleasant night may be heard the vibrant strains of wandering players 
 making the soft air musical'm spots. 
 
 A source of especial pride to the citizens of Santa Barbara is the 
 Public Library. This was originally owned by the Odd Fellows; 
 but a few ladies made heroic efforts in its behalf, whereby it was 
 transferred to the city as a free gift. Friends of culture in and out of 
 the city have made generous donations of coin and books, and 4,000 
 volumes now rest upon its shelves. The lite Floral Carnival was one' 
 <of many entertainments given for its benafit. It is managed by a 
 Beard of five Trasteas, elected by the people. The principal period- 
 
1^6 SANTA BARBARA COT73TTY. 
 
 icals and a variety of newspapers are received regularly. A move- 
 ment is now on foot to provide permanent quarters, expressly ar- 
 ranged for the needs of the library. It is also proposed to extend its- 
 privileges, which have heretofore been limited to city tax-payers and 
 visitors nominated by them. Since the people of the surrounding: 
 suburbs have worked hand-in-hand with the citizens, it is but just 
 that they participate in its benefits. 
 
 Among the leading physicians of Santa Barbara are Dr. S. B. P, 
 Knox, Dr. R. F. Winchester, Dr. Shaw, Dr. Bates, Dr. Crooks, Dr, 
 Logan, Dr. Guild and a lady physician. Dr. Harriet G. Belcher, 
 Among the legal fraternity, the following are the most prominent: 
 Hon. D. P. Hatch, the present Superior Judge, Hon, Charles Fer- 
 nald, late Mayor of the city, Messrs. W. C. Stratton, Paul E. "Wright, 
 E. B. Hall, R. B. Canfield, C. A. Storke, Chas. E. Huse, B. F. Thomas, 
 J. J. Boyce, J. T. Richards, A. A. Ogiesby, Thos. McNulta, R. M. 
 Dillard, C, A. Thompson, R. H, Chittenden, J. H. Kincaid and A. T. 
 Bates. Eigut of these gentlemen have occirpied the bench at times 
 and are addressed as "Judge." The common Calif ornian custom of 
 bestowing the aforesaid title upon every member of the bar, does not 
 obtain here. Three dentists suffice to keep the mouths of the people- 
 in order: Doctors L. G. Yates, D, B, Lee and H. W. Stauffer. 
 
 Following are the names of the principal business men of Santa 
 Barbara: Real Estate and Insurance — Messrs. W. H. Woodbridge, 
 Joseph J. Perkins, G. W. Coffin, A. O. Perkins and Fred. A. Moore. 
 Photographers— A. M. Stringfield, C. W. Judd and W. J. Rea. Sta- 
 tioners — Alphonse Crane, H. A. C. McPhail and J. H. Summers, 
 Lumber dealers — Corham & Co., and Chas. Pierce. Furniture deal- 
 ers and Undertakers— Knight <fc Blood, Robert Bell, F. F. Pierce, R, 
 Forbush and A. H. Emigh. Carriage Manufacturers — Hunt & Son, 
 A. C. Schuster and Joseph Bates. Druggists — H. J. Finger, A. M. Ruiz 
 and B. Gutierrez. Jewelers— John Eaves, E. B, Chambers, Israel 
 Miller, B. Guinand and P, Van der Linden. Dry Goods— N. P. Aus- 
 tin, W. E. Noble, H. F. Maguire, T. M. Breslauer and A. Garland. 
 Dealers in Hardware — Edwards & Boeseke and Boeder & Ott. Boots 
 and Shoes— Bell & Hunt, F.N.Emerson & Co., and T.Wharton. 
 Clothing stores— Mortimer Cook, A. Fluehe, S. Hanauer, C. E. Hoff- 
 man. Grocers — John Walcott, P. N. Newell, Hunt & Metcalf, W.-H. 
 Myers, Smith & Johnson and J. H. Jacobs. Saddlers — S. Loomis, J. 
 J. Eddleman. Milliners— Mrs. M. F. Hamer, Kenney & Hayward and 
 Misses Ahern. Wholesale Butchers — I. K. Fisher and Sherman <fe 
 Ealand. Candy Manufacturer— G. N. Johnson. Florists — John 
 S pence and Joseph Sexton. 
 
 The cost of living here compares favorably with other places. If so 
 fanciful a distinction might be made, one would say that the necessi- 
 ties of life can be bought cheaply and its luxuries dearly. A person 
 
SANTA J5AKBAEA COUNTY, 27 
 
 •of simple tastes can live in Santa Barbara perhaps at less cost than 
 anywhere upon the continent. It is a delightful place for a small in- 
 come; but for no income at all, the chanees are not brilliant. A small 
 house, unfurnished, can be rented for $12; a cabin for much less and 
 a palace for much more. The prices of real estate are now at a reas- 
 onable level. A lot in the business portion of town would bring from 
 $50 to $80 per front foot (on State street); a small lot in the residence 
 portion is worth from $150 to $500; on the outskirts, good land can be 
 bought for from $50 to $100 per acre, uninrproved. 
 
 A steam planing mill, owned by Thomas Nixon, is kept running 
 •constantly. Mr. Nixon and Postmaster Barber are the principal arch- 
 itects residing in the city, and their work may be studied on many 
 elaborate structures. The cannery, owned by the Dimmick, Sheffield 
 ■& Knight Fruit Co., has already acquired a name abroad. Fruits, 
 such as strawberries, apricots, nectarines, peaches, grapes, plums, 
 pears, etc., are put up in the best manner. Tomatoes are also canned. 
 This cannery, in the season, provides employment for from 80 to 125 
 persons. The city is well supplied with skilled mechanics. Laborers 
 are also plentiful. If there be a lack of any kind of labor, it is in the 
 line of domestic service. Chinese servants dominate many house- 
 holds. Female servants are very rare and highly prized. 
 
 The Hospital Farm, outside the city limits, was purchased sev- 
 eral years ago at a cost of $9,000, and a great many necessary im- 
 provements have since been added. It is not intended as a refuge for 
 paupers; but to shelter and care for the indigent sick. A poor house 
 is an unknown quantity in this country. The necessities of the most 
 poverty-stricken are supplied by a monthly sum, allowed by the Board 
 of Supervisors upon proper representations. 
 
 Architecturally, Santa Barbara may be called of a mixed compo- 
 site order. Pretty bay- windowed cottages are common. More per- 
 tentious dwellings are not rare. Of these the m )st palatial is the mag- 
 nificent new residence of Thomas B. Dibblee, built upon the Punta 
 del Castillo, a fine point of vantage. The grounds are laid out in the 
 most generous, yet artistic fashion, and the building it elf is one of 
 the richest in Southern California. The residence of Don Gaspar 
 Oreha, near the Mission, is also noticed by strangers for the beauty of 
 its architectural design, and others, the property of John Edwards, 
 J. W. Calkins, J. W. Cooper, Judg3 Fernald and Captain W. E. 
 Greenwell, would be considered handsome buildings anywhere. 
 
 Of society, as the word is usually defined, but little can be said. 
 When it is considered that a moiety have strayed hither from all points, 
 of the compass; meeting here the pastoral princes of a post-platal 
 period or the children of a still earlier age — hijos del pais — could any 
 homogeneity be expected? Social divisions are mainly made upon 
 
28 SANTA BABBABA CdUNTY. 
 
 religious lines, though not to so great a degree as formerly. There 
 is some influence — doubtless climatic — which renders the manners oi 
 the people at large more gentle and gracious than is apt to be the 
 case elsewhere. This peculiarity was, strangely enough, first noted 
 in print by a traveling humorist, "Derrick D odd" of the San Fran- 
 cisco Post. And the inevitable admiration for the country which 
 infects society to a remarkable degree, gives rise to a certain clannish 
 temper, exasperating to tourists of the nil admirari type. 
 
 CHAPTER VL 
 
 £b moxtecjto, 
 
 Yjr^HE word "monte'' means a thicket, and land covered with brush 
 sQAQI is in this part of the country known as "monte land." It is 
 sure to be fertile when cleared. Montecito therefore means only a 
 diminutive monte, and whoever may have driven through to the old 
 Dinsmore place twelve years ago will recognize the aptness of the 
 name. Strangers usually jump to the conclusion that the word means 
 "little mountain," from the similarity of sound. El Montecito is sim- 
 ply a suburb of Santa Barbara. It is in a charming valley about four 
 miles eastward from the city, and contains many handsome residences, 
 The valley opens to the southwest, on the sea. The farms are mostly 
 small, but in the highest state of cultivation . A large number of 
 places rank as country seats rather than as farms. Among the finest 
 places, occupied by capitalists or professional gentlemen, is the beau- 
 tiful residence known as the Eddy place, now owned by Mr. Larminie, 
 an English gentleman. Fronting this, is Judge Hall's new country 
 seat; not far from his old place, now owned by J. M. Forbes, the well 
 known railroad man. Mr. Forbes has bought largely in Montecito, 
 and possesses a handsome estate there which is being rapidly develop- 
 ed. Other elegant country seats are those of Col. Hayne, I. R. Bax- 
 ley, Dr. E. W. Crooks, J. M. Parks, Mrs. Dinsmore, J. Doulton, H, 
 Stoddard, R. Kinton Stevens, \Ym. Field and others. Montecito is 
 especially adapted to horticulture. Many tropical fruits come to per- 
 fection. Among others, the bananas, planted by the late Col. Dins- 
 more, still ripen freely in the warm air. The place is now owned by 
 Messrs. Johnston and Goodrich. The series of experiments in horti- 
 culture made for years in this valley by Col. Bond, who still retains 
 his magnificent place, and Col. Dinsmore, have been invaluable to 
 those who came later. The flourishing orchards of these two places, with 
 those of J. M. Hunter, O. A. Stafford, H. L. Williams, H. C. Thomp- 
 son, Col. Hayne, C. Aug. Thompson and others, show what delicious 
 fruits the kindly soil can produce. 
 
SANTA BAEBABA COU.VTY. 29 
 
 • 
 
 The Montecito Nursery, under the management of J. D. Reeves, 
 is an interesting place to visit. It lies in a sheltered spot, where the 
 most delicate plants can be coaxed into life. The whole valley is so 
 situated that it is usually a few degrees warmer than in the neighbor- 
 ing valleys. Strawberries are particularly productive. The 
 only place in the valley that could be denominated a large farm is the 
 Swift place, which occupies a commanding position; the only rancho 
 the Jacques place, now owned by H. L. Williams, whose acres are 
 spread out over Ortega Hill, and support quite a number of hogs and 
 other live stock. Within the last year so much property has changed 
 hands and so many buildings have been erected that the Montecito 
 would scarcely be recognized by an old inhabitant. The old Matan- 
 za property, once covered with fine oak woods, has been cleared and 
 planted with fruit trees in profuse number. As an industry of Mon- 
 tecito, perhaps bee-keeping is quite as important as any. Every 
 canon has its rows of bee hives, and upon almost every miniature 
 farm the bees swarm in myriads. There has been at times some un- 
 friendly feeling between the bee men and the fruit men, the former's 
 proteges being accused of eating some fruits before they were fully 
 ripened, and even attending to the grapes while in blossom. 
 
 The former attraction of Montecito, the big grave-vine, was taken 
 up and carried to the Centennial in sections. But the "daughter" vine 
 bids fair to eclipse its parent. The "big grave-vine" property is own- 
 ed by Dr. Doremus. Every one, who would be likely to read about 
 Santa Barbara at all, must be fully acquainted with the story of the 
 vine — how it was planted by a lovely Sehorita. to whom it had been 
 given by her lover, as a whip, and how it grew and bore tons of deli- 
 cious grapes — so we spare further recital of the well-worn tale. The 
 trellis supporting the vine made a shady saloon beneath, which for 
 years was used by the native population as a dancing-floor. In Dr. 
 Wood's Guide, alluded to previously, the following poetical notes 
 occur: "Under this tropical trellis, on the hard beaten earth, many 
 a rising moon has thrown its level beams upon Sehor and Seiiorita 
 dancing to the sad guitar, or upon the easy swing and wild abandon 
 of the Spanish fandango. Here is the romance of the south. Here 
 should the poet lounge and smoke in the starlight without, watching 
 the dreamy convolutions of the waltz, listening to the soft rhythm of 
 the Spanish tongue as voices float above sighing of the music. Here? 
 too, have come the murderer, and the outlaw, stopping for pleasure 
 in their flight from death. And here the officers of justice overtaking 
 the fugitive, a desperate shot and its answer have interrupted the 
 dance for a moment and put the desperado beyond reach of judge and 
 jury." 
 
 Except the school buildings in the central part of Montecito, and 
 a small Catholic church, where services are held occasionally, there 
 
"' SA3TTA BARBABA COUNTY", 
 
 are no public buildings of any kind. For church-going, marketing' 
 and social amusement, the residents depend upon Santa Barbara, 
 There are quite a number of native Calif ornian families in the valley, 
 whose ancestors, as far as they know, were born on the same spot. 
 They are generally a simple and kindly people who care little for 
 things outside the circle of their native mountains. As a curiosity of 
 the last census, it may be stated that there are 68 persons claiming 
 the name of Bomero. A description of the Montecito Hot Springs- 
 will be given elsewhere. 
 
 CHAPTEB VII. 
 
 CAEPIKTEEIA. 
 
 .^E valley of Carpinteria was a part of the pueblo lands oj: Santa 
 gJyj Barbara. In early days it was the custom of tke prefect (an 
 officer equivalent to the Mayor of to-day) to portion out the tillable 
 lands among the people, who raised upon it their summer crops and 
 then retreated to town for the winter. No titles to the soil ever 
 passed before the coming of the Americans. The name was derived 
 from a traditional carpenter, whose place of business was called in 
 the Spanish tongue, el Carpinteria (with the accent on the penulti- 
 mate) . The thickly settled central portion of the valley is twelve 
 miles east of Santa Barbara. The silver beach curves gently from 
 the point dividing Montecito and Carpinteria, to the bold and rocky 
 Bincon, giving the whole valley a southerly exposure. From the 
 beach, it seems as if the land was enclosed, from x^oint to point, by a 
 deep semi-circle of purple mountains. In this well protected corner 
 lies about ten square miles of deep, fertile, mostly alluvial soil. 
 These rich bottom lands are the natural home of the Lima bean, Car- 
 pinteria's chief export. Fruits and nuts are produced in quantities 
 and attaining sometimes an abnormal size. One of the first American 
 settlers tells us that in early days it was not thought that this valley 
 would ever be valuable for horticulture, owing to the utter absence of 
 large streams for irrigation. But in time it became thoroughly appar- 
 ent that the natural moisture might be retained in the deep loamy 
 soil, by proper cultivation, making any artificial irrigation superflu- 
 ous. Kow, in the heat of summer, may be seen green fields of corn. 
 or beans, stretching away for miles, sometimes only divided from 
 each other by a narrow roadway; fields on which no rain has ever 
 fallen, and the nearest water is sixty feet under ground. A full 
 account of the Lima bean industry will be given in another chapter . 
 Low foothills, at the base of the mountains, are sometimes culti- 
 vated to their very summits. On mesas and rolling lands, wheat and 
 
sa:sta bauba.ua county, SI 
 
 and there, along the face of the apjDar entry solid range, open myste- 
 rious canons, watered by trickling brooks from distant springs. The 
 'enthusiast who attempts to follow one of these to its source, after 
 tramping for miles along the tiny stream will be apt to give up at last 
 in despair. He will admire the gay luxuriance of wild growths; the 
 sycamores with their silver-grey trunks and roots sprawling in the 
 gurgling water. If it is the right season, the delicious wild black- 
 berry will tempt him always a little further. And if he is a botanist, 
 lie will be fully recompensed for his fatigue in the presence of the 
 most delicate and fairy-like of ferns. Looking from the sea-beach 
 toward the mountains, one would say that these endless canons were 
 not possible, and indeed he who has never traversed their length will 
 be unable to believe the half that might be told. 
 
 Carpinteria is divided generally into small farms; a few acres of 
 this astonishing soil being enoiigh for the support of a family. Prices 
 are high by comparison — but by actual worth, low, the best alluvial 
 lands bringing from 8100 to 8200 per acre. Mesa land, suitable for 
 grain, is worth from 85 to 830 per acre. All the best of the canons, 
 which are generally government land, have been taken up, but some 
 of these claims can be bought very reasonably. The chief product 
 of these canon farms is honey, bees seeming to take kindly to the 
 wild flower food in the vicinity. 
 
 The Carpinteria wharf, a good solid structure, is owned by the 
 Smith Bros., whose house, lumber-yard and warehouses serve to 
 give the place a busy air. The produce of the valley is here shipped 
 to its market, A few miles beyond the wharf is the brick store of 
 Mr. Thurmond, which also serves as the postoflice, and is surrounded 
 by a cluster of buildings, among them a restaurant and blacksmith's 
 shop, with several dwelling houses, making quite a village-like ap- 
 pearance. The hamlet also contains in a some what;, scattered way, 
 two churches, Presbyterian and Baptist, two school-houses, a hall for 
 meetings, etc. There are lodges of Good Templars and of the 
 Knights of Pythias. The pride of the community, however, is a 
 flourishing brass band, known far and wide as the "Lima bean band.'' 
 
 Near the center of the valley, the highly-cultivated lands and 
 handsome residence of Col. Russel Heath is one of the most interest- 
 ing points in the whole valley of Sauta Barbara. Here were the first 
 successes of the splendid English walnut tree, Col. Heath having been 
 for several years noted as the largest walnut-grower in the "United 
 States. He has also extensive orchards of other fruits, a large quan- 
 tity of peaches, apricots, etc., being dried every season upon the place. 
 Other valuable orchards are those of O. N. Cadwell (called Pomona's 
 Retreat), E. H. Pierce, J. A. Blood, Sr., E. J. Knapp, Mrs. M. A. 
 Ashley, F. H. Knight, T. L. Knap, Seth Olmsted and others. The 
 walnut grows very slowly, not beginning to bear until ten years old. 
 
32 
 
 SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 
 
 After that, every year increases the nut crop, and as a provision for 
 his posterity, no man can do better than to leave each of his children 
 ten acres, or even five of the English walnut. Citrus fruits do fairly 
 well in some places. Prunes have been found by Mr. E. J. Knapp, 
 the principal person who has tried them, to be an excellent paying 
 crop. Apricots have been a favorite fruit, bringing good prices and 
 selling well in a dried form. Peaches, nectarines, figs, olives, pears, 
 apples, quinces and peanuts do remarkably well. Besides the Lima 
 bean, the ground produces tremendous crops of other varieties of 
 beans, corn, squashes, etc. Flax thrives, but is objected to by some 
 farmers on account of the rapid exhaustion of the soil on which it 
 grows. It is raised for the seed only; the fibre is not utilized. The 
 farms of Messrs. T. A. Cravens, H. Lewis, the Franklins, the Thur- 
 lnottds, the Ogans, Messrs. Thomas Pye, Henry Fish, L. B. Hogue, 
 P.- C. Higgins and others, who are generally largely interested in 
 Limas, are perhaps representative rdaces. 
 
 The perfume farm of H. H. Hall has been an object of much intell- 
 igent curiosity. Pioses, violets, jasmines, tube roses and orange flow- 
 ers are here cultivated for the express purpose of distillation for per- 
 fumery. The plantation is now doing well, and in due course of time 
 +he object will be accomplished, and perfumery become an exxDort of 
 the country. The beautiful grounds of H. C. Ford, the artist, contain 
 a collection of plants similar to that of Dr. Dimmick of Santa Bar- 
 bara, in resx^ect that they have been brought from all parts of the 
 world to ornament his garden. 
 
 One of the chief delights of life in the Carpinteria is known as 
 ''going a clamming." Sometimes, when the tide is out, the clams may 
 be gathered by the bushel, with no aid excex>t case-knives, fingers and 
 toes. At other times they lie cleex^er, and parties come down to the 
 shore with a team of horses and a plow; a furrow is slowly or>ened, 
 and one follows with a basket to x>ick up the astonished clam. "With- 
 out fear of contradiction, we assert that these Carpinteria clams, puri- 
 fied by a wave or two and roasted on a fire of drift wood, on the beach, 
 and taken immediately, are good ! 
 
 In a thickly settled valley, like that of the Carpinteria, which 
 contains a population of over 700 x>ersons, mostly farmers, it is irnx>os- 
 sible to do more than glance at a few — not necessarily the most 
 notable — just to give an idea to the stranger who reads of the earth's 
 marvellous cax>abilities. From the sj)lendid acreage of the Bailard 
 ranch to the smallest door-yard, everything sx>eaks of thrift and 
 energy, with their natural consequence of prosperity. And no one 
 can wonder that the inhabitants of the rich valley of the Carpinteria 
 are the most contented race the world can show. 
 
■SAIs^A EATtSABA COTfNTT. ' 33 
 
 CHAPTER YIIL 
 
 GOLETA AND LA PATERA, 
 
 yTfOLETA is situated about eight miles west of Santa Barbara, and 
 -5g^ consists of a store, postofnee and public hall, blacksmith shop, 
 'wagon s-hop, boot shop, school house, M. E. Church, a Baptist Church 
 Just finished, an eating house, and about half a dozen dwelling houses. 
 It has two daily coaches carrying the U. S. mail, and can boast of a pub- 
 lic watering trough fed by a wind mill and tank. There are two prin- 
 cipal roads, the one running through the town from east to west and 
 3being the county road from Santa Barbara to Lompoc by the way of 
 <Gaviota, and the other called the stage road, running north across the 
 mountain to the town of Santa Ynez. The entire surrounding region 
 ior a distance of several miles is commonly known as La Patera, a 
 Spanish word which means "the duck pond." The shipping is done 
 from More's wharf, situated about one mile south of the store. It is a 
 commodious, well built structure, fully equal to the requirements of 
 the farmers. D. M. Culver is the wharfinger. In the immediate 
 vicinity of "the wharf is an extensive deposit of asphaltum, of excellent 
 quality, which is shipped in large quantities to San Francisco. There 
 are also several clam beds not far from the wharf, which are chiefly 
 valuable to pleasure-seekers. The election precinct, of which Goleta 
 is the polling place, comprises three school districts, Bafaela, Patera 
 and Cathedral Oaks, At the last general election there were one hun- 
 dred and twenty-five votes cast. The entire number of children be- 
 tween the ages of five and seventeen, according to the last census re- 
 ports, aggregates one hundred and eighty. The total population 
 probably amounts to eight hundred. 
 
 The social advantages are good. The schools are ably managed, 
 and largely attended. The churches and Sunday Schools are well sus- 
 tained. A flourishing lodge of Good Templars exists; and only one 
 whisky saloon has been able to withstand the better influences which 
 j)revail. The soil is deep and fertile. The bottom lands sometimes 
 produce four tons of hay per acre. One ton of beans per acre is not 
 an uncommon yield. Squashes of enormous size, are a specialty. 
 They frequently exceed two hundred pounds in weight. A few years 
 ago, one produced by Philander Kellogg reached such gigantic pro- 
 portions, that when bisected, the cavity was found to be sufficient to 
 allow the halves to be placed together enclosing his 18-year-old daugh- 
 ter. Hence the story has gone forth that Goleta squashes sometimes 
 contain 18-year-old girls. This has naturally led to numerous 
 requests from parties at a distance (presumably bachelors) for some 
 seed of that remarkable variety. Large orchards of apricots, peaches 
 and English walnuts have recently been planted, the perfect adapta- 
 bility of soil and climate having already been demonstrated on a 
 smaller scale. 
 
34 SAXTA feAKBAEA COrSTTT. 
 
 — — — » , 
 
 A very important industry is the pampas- plume culture, inteo- 
 cluced here by Joseph Sexton. Almost in-credible profits have been 
 realized by those engaged in it. Tire -principal producers are Joseph 
 Sexton, Frank E, Kellogg- and Ohas. Hails. 
 
 For dairying purposes this section possesses unusual advantages. 
 Owing to the richness and moistness of the soil, aided by the summer" 
 fogs, an abundance of green feed can be had at all seasons of the- 
 year without irrigation. There is a good srippfy of timber, principally 
 live oak. Goleta is one of the chief sources on which Santa Barbara 
 depends for fuel. The cost of stove-wood on the ground, is usually 
 about four and' one-half dollars per cord. At present there is for sale- 
 near Goleta-, about eight hundred acres of land, ranging in price from; 
 one hundred and fifty, all the way down to five dollars per acre, de- 
 pending upon quality of soil and location. 
 
 The scenery is very desirable. On the north are the rugged Santa 
 Ynez mountains and on the south a low range of hills called the Mesa, 
 which with the exception of here and there a gap, hides the ocean 
 from view. There are several mountain streams, some of the canons- 
 of which contain charming little falls. To obtain a most magnificent 
 view, one needs only to take the stage road and go to the summit of 
 the mountain. Then with Santa Barbara and its surroundings to the 
 east, the rolling- hills which stretch away toward Gaviota to the west,, 
 the loveliest of valleys nestled at his feet, the glimmering waters of 
 the Pacific beyond, with the dim blue islands in the distance, and be- 
 hind him a wilderness of mountain peaks, he commands a scene of 
 surpassing beauty and grandeur. It is a scene which that extensive 
 traveler, the late Secretary W. H. Seward, is said to have pronounced 
 the most magnificent he ever beheld. 
 
 Among the most highly improved large ranches are those of Ell- 
 wood Cooper, W. W. Hollister, S. P. Stow and John I>. Patterson. 
 There are many smaller farms that are also well improved. Among 
 them are those of Joseph Sexton, B. F. Pettis, J. O. Williams, Henry 
 Hill, I. E, Martin, George Edwards, A. C. Scull, F.'E, Kellogg, Si%, 
 A. E. Hollister, B. F. Woods and Charles Hails. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 COAST EAXCHOS^-POINT COXGEPCIOX. 
 
 IplEYOND the fine rural settlement of La Patera, the broad western 
 fX3§ avenue is continued to the rancho lands of Col. W. W. Hollister. 
 His principal entrance gate is about three miles from Goleta and the 
 ranch house and buildings occupy a pleasant eminence, commanding 
 a fine view of the surrounding country. The family home, however. 
 
"SA1S"TA "BARBARA COfNTY. • 35 
 
 is reached through a narrow valley which at the end of two miles 
 terminates apparently in a broad level opening, where the house 
 stands, embowered in bloom and verdure, with its splendid orange 
 •orchard in front, and a fine profusion of other fruits clustered about 
 it. This lovely retreat is named Glen Annie, in honor of the Colonel's 
 charming wife. The entire rancho. covers 3,600 acres, which allows 
 for gardening on a generous scale. It embraces valley, mesa and 
 grazing lands, and fronts the avenue for a mile and a half; running 
 back to the mountains, through Glen Annie, about 3% miles. For 
 years Col. Hollister has spent time and money on experiments in 
 agriculture, to prove for the general benefit, of what the country is 
 •capable. Twelve years ago, a correspondent of the New York World 
 was inspired to utter the following prophecy, which has been fulfilled, 
 more or less : "As I left this inviting spot I ventured to predict that 
 ten years hence the Santa Barbara valley for sixty miles along the 
 bay will, by reason of its unsurpassed climate and fertile soil, have 
 become a very garden, in which this beautiful farm will stand promi- 
 nent as the gem of Southern California, an example of what beneficent 
 ^Nature and the skilled hand of one of her worshippers can do toward 
 creating an earthly paradise." 
 
 "Ellwood," the celebrated olive-oil rancho, the property of Mr. 
 Ellwood Cooper, joins Col. Hollister's on the west, and embraces 
 about 2,000 acres, with a frontage on the avenue of three-fourths of a 
 mile. This estate is noted also for the long lines of giant eucalypti, which 
 mark the boundaries and division fences. It is said that Mr. Cooper 
 planted 150,000 of these trees with his own hands. He has written a 
 valuable book on the eucalyptus tree, recognized as a standard work. 
 But his enthusiasm is for the olive, and he is the author of an ex- 
 haustive treatise on olive culhire and olive oil, which said oil is 
 produced on this rancho of most marvellous purity. He is also the 
 President of the State Horticultural Society, and is particularly noted 
 for the tireless energy with which he battles against pestiferous in- 
 sect tribes, the special bane of horticulture in California. "Ellwood" 
 is a favorite drive from Santa Barbara, and no tourist has done the 
 country until the Hollister and Cooper ranchos have been, visited. 
 The latter must not be understood as covered with olive and euca- 
 lyptus trees. There are carefully tended orchards of citrus fruits, 
 almonds, walnuts, and a. great variety of other fruits which thrive 
 throughout the valley. 
 
 Adjoining Hollister's on the east, back from the avenue, are the 
 highly developed farms of W. W. Stow, of San Francisco, and his 
 son, S. P. Stow. They own about 1,200 acres of farming, fruit and' 
 grazing lands. Mr. Joseph J. Perkins, in his "Business Man's Esti- 
 mate of Santa Barbara County," thus notes an indubitable truth 
 regarding the three estates just mentioned. He says : "What has 
 
o(> SANTA BARBARA COtTNTY. 
 
 been accomplished by Messrs. Cooper, Hollister and. Stow in these 
 three canons can be repeated, with enterprise and means, in any or 
 all of the canons along the coast line of the Santa Barbara valley." 
 
 For some distance, the coast is a mere succession of canons or 
 rather caiiadas, since they are often of a generous width. Las Armas,, 
 branching out from- the "Ell wood " r rancho, is a delightful nook. 
 
 The next canon, the Tecolote, is one of the most naturally 
 beautiful of ail. It originally was* a part of the Dos Pueblos, and is- 
 now the property of the Sturges brothers, 
 
 Eagle canon, containing- about 1,200 aeres r has recently been, 
 purchased by Mr. Isador Dreyfus, for £30,000. 
 
 The rancho known as "Los Dos- Pueblos," in; remembrance of the- 
 time when two Indian cities were situated upon it, was 1 patented to 
 Nicholas A. Den for over 15,000 acres. But the heirs of Mr. Den 
 now hold but 8,285 acres of the original grant. Upon this portion, 
 there is a fine fruit orchard, but the land is mainly devoted to stock- 
 raising. Near Dos Pueblos, to the west, is the- dairy farm of A. W, 
 Buell, who has occupied the place for several years. The next ran- 
 cho, called Canada del Corral, is owned by Senor Don Bruno Orella,. 
 and' is chiefly devoted to sheep. 
 
 The Tajiguas rancho of about 2200' acres, lately owned by the 
 Young- brothers, has recently been purchased by Lawrence- W. More 
 the price being $22,000. Upon this rancho are a number of 'bearing- 
 olive, orange, lemon and lime trees, of the choicest varieties. 
 
 The rancho of Our Lady of Refuge, Nuestra Senora del Refugio., 
 owned by Col. Hollister and others, covers most of the remainder of the 
 littoral belt under the protection of St. Barbara. In the midst of this 
 ''refuge," is the OaYiota landing, with a wharf and Postoffice. The 
 road, which has followed the beach for miles, now turns sharply to- 
 the north and in the course of a mile or two reaches the Gaviota Pass; 
 a natural chasm about sixty feet in width, with its walls of solid rock 
 rising almost ijerpendicularly. Here the road crosses the Santa Tnez. 
 range, and descends to the valley of Santa Yhez 
 
 A few miles beyond Gaviota is Point Conception. The Coast Sur- 
 vey description calls it "a high promontory, stretching boldly into 
 the ocean and terminating abruptly." It is more than two hundred 
 feet above the ocean, and is conspicuous from land or sea in every di- 
 rection, for many miles. The view from there is widely extended and 
 magnificent. Here the government has erected a l>eaeon Tight to warn 
 the mariner far out at sea. The light itself is two hundred and fifty 
 feet above the water and can be plainly seen from the heights behind 
 Santa Barbara, more than forty miles away in a direct line. From 
 this direction the point appears like an island. The illuminating- ap- 
 paratus is of the first order of the system of Fresnel, and exhibit^ a 
 
SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 37 
 
 revolving white light, showing a flash every half minute. The light- 
 house is a brick building, plastered, with a low tower rising from 
 the center, also of brick, covered with white plaster. The government 
 requires a daily record of observations to be kept, and the keeper and 
 his family are also expected to extend the hospitalities of the house 
 to visitors, besides keeping the light and lighthouse in order, and 
 holding themselves always prepared to relieve any ship-wrecked 
 crews who might be cast upon the point. The fog-whistle is located 
 on the edge of the sea wall, directly below the lighthouse, and the 
 •operating machinery is so situated that the waves dash over it. 
 During thick weather the whistle is heard once in every 52 seconds, 
 night and day. A fog bell is also used, which weighs 3136 pounds, 
 and is sounded every 13% seconds in foggy weather. 
 This is the end of the Santa Barbara Vallev! 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 SANTA YXEZ. 
 
 |flE upper valley of the Santa Ynez comprises 223,185 acres, 
 according to the table on page 12, and it is estimated that not 
 less than 50,000 acres are adapted to agriculture and horticulture, 
 8ince the table alluded to was compiled, the valley has been put 
 under cultivation to a large extent. It is estimated that the grain 
 shipped from Santa Ynez this year will amount to 30,000 tons, of 
 which the greater portion is wheat. It is, in fact, a wheat-growing 
 district, and is destined at some future day to furnish homes for 
 thousands of happy families. The river first makes its debut in the 
 county of Santa Barbara, on the wild and mouutainous rancho called 
 Los Prietos y Najalayegua. This is a region of cinnabar, and quicksilver 
 mines were once opened, but have been allowed to relapse into ruins. 
 It is now chiefly interesting to sportsmen, although many of its small 
 valleys are susceptible of cultivation. The San Marcos rancho be- 
 longs to the Pierce brothers of San Francisco, and contains a large 
 proportion of very excellent land; but it is at present only used for 
 stock-raising. On the opposite side of the river, the Tequepis rancho 
 is under the same ownership. Next to the San Marcos, the Canada de 
 los Pinos, known as the College ranch, is the property of the Catholic 
 Church. The ''College" which is - responsible for the sobriquet, 
 a school for boys, was kept up for several years, taught by priests of 
 the Catholic Church. The rancho is managed under the direction of 
 the Catholic Bishop of Southern California. A large portion of it is 
 leased to various tenants, and brought under cultivation. Some of 
 the choicest land, purchased by Mr. Cornelius Murphy, has been 
 
ss 
 
 SANTA BARBAE A COUNTY. 
 
 built upon and otherwise improved. It is mainly devoted to wheat 
 and the raising of fine stock. 
 
 About two miles from Mr. Murphy's place is the little town of 
 Santa Ynez; a nucleus, of which great things are prophesied. It is 
 two or three miles from the river, and perhaps thirty-five from Santa 
 Barbara/by way of the toll road over the San Marcos Pass. It contains 
 a postoffice, express office, blacksmith shop, hotel and two stores, one 
 belonging to Mr. H. Watkins, and the other a branch of the Goldtree 
 firm of San Luis Obispo. 
 
 At a short distance from this little town the Hayne Bros, are de- 
 voting themselves especially to olive culture. Several thousand trees 
 have been transplanted from Montecito and set out upon their 
 ranch this year, and are said to be doing admirably, as well as those 
 planted in other years. At rjresent they are raising also considerable 
 wheat. 
 
 Little is left of what was once the Mision Santa Ynez, in this 
 vicinity. But in the least ruinous of the buildings a stock of general 
 merchandise is displayed for the benefit of the neighboring farmers. 
 About three miles from the Mission and three from Santa Ynez, the 
 three places forming the three corners of an ideal triangle, is the ru- 
 dimentary settlement called Ballard's. Here the main roads meet; 
 one connecting the valley with the county seat by way of the Gaviota 
 Pass, and one passing over the range at the San Marcos Pass, which, 
 at its summit, is just fifteen miles distant from Santa Barbara. The 
 land in the neighborhood of Ballard's is of excellent quality. Several 
 thousand fruit trees have been set out here within the last two years. 
 There is a postoffice, store, blacksmith's shop and school house at 
 Ballard's. 
 
 Opposite the^College Rancho, between the Santa Y'nez river and 
 mountains, is the Lomas de la Purification rancho, owned by the heirs 
 of Captain Thomas W. Moore. It is a fine property, devoted mainly 
 to stock raising. Following the river, on the same bank, is another 
 rancho belonging to the Pierce brothers, called the Nojoqui. 
 
 The San Carlos de Jonata is the only remaining rancho of great 
 extent in this district. It is composed partly of fine bottom land, 
 partly of rolling and hill lands; much of it is well adapted to grain. It 
 is well watered and for dairying purposes has no superior. The 
 Childs postoffice, on this rancho, is about five miles from Santa Ynez # 
 There is also a store and a school house in the same vicinity. 
 
 One of the finest characteristics of the upper Santa Ynez Yalley, 
 as a whole, is the abundance of pure clear water. The river itself and 
 numerous little creeks that empty into it on either side give the land 
 an exceptional value. Its horticultural capabilities are just beginning 
 to be understood. Apples, xDears, peaches, quinces and the small 
 fruits do w r ell. Prices have advanced somewhat in the last year or 
 
SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 39 
 
 two. Fine land can no longer be bought for a dollar an acre. In fact, 
 it now varies from $5 to $40 per acre. This is a wide variation; bnt 
 the quality of the land varies widely, from good grazing to the best 
 wheat and fruit lands. Among the causes which have contributed to 
 the advance, may be numbered the narrow gauge railroad at their 
 doors, the wakening of owners to the true value of their property, and 
 lastly, the comparatively small amount in the market for sale. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 THE LOMPOC TEMPERANCE COLONY. 
 
 ^ny^HIS, one of the most famous temperance colonies in the United 
 v iJL^ States, was founded in the Fall of 1874, in the most westerly por* 
 tion of Santa Barbara county. The history of this colony is briefly told . 
 In the Winter of 1869, while on a business trip to Santa Barbara 
 county, Mr. W. W. Broughton, now residing at Lompoc, conceived 
 the idea of organizing a temperance colony in Santa Barbara county 
 if lands suitable could be procured. About the middle of December, 
 Mr. Broughton met with George H. Long, then Superintendent of 
 the San Julian, Lompoc and other ranchos devoted to sheep and own- 
 ed by the Messrs. Hollister and Dibblees. Mr. Long was favorably 
 impressed with the idea and enthusiastically recommended the Lom- 
 poc valley as the place of all places for such a community to locate, 
 and on the day following the interview Mr. Broughton visited the 
 property. Finding it all that Mr. Long recommended it to be, and 
 more, Mr. Broughton immediately returned to Santa Cruz, his home 
 at that time, and enlisted Judge E. H. Heacock in the enterprise, who 
 immediately opened a correspondence with Col. W. W. Hollister, rel- 
 ative to purchasing the Lornpoc rancho for colony purposes. The 
 Colonel responded that the rancho had not yet been patented, but as 
 soon as the title could be perfected it would be for sale. Something 
 like one year passed before anything further was done; when the 
 Colonel wrote the Judge that the title was perfected and the property, 
 comprising about 47,000 acres, was for sale at $300,000. Terms were 
 immediately agreed upon and a stock company called the "Lompoc 
 Valley Land Company" organized, with a capital stock of $300,000. 
 The stock was divided into one hundred shares of §3,000 each and 
 soon sufficient w r as subscribed to warrant a forward movement, and a 
 preliminary meeeting was called to learn the object and aim of each 
 subscriber. At that meeting it was developed that the largest stock 
 holders designed going into sheep and cattle raising, which would 
 leave the farmer to fence or to be continually annoyed with the herds 
 about him. This meeting was anything but harmonious and resulted 
 in the withdrawal of those intending to embark in general farming, 
 
40 
 
 SANTA BAEBABA COUNTY. 
 
 and the enterprise was abandoned. Up to this time the agriculturist- 
 had no protection, except by constructing expensive fences, and this, 
 was out of the question in the greater part of the State, and espec- 
 ially so where stock growing was the chief industry. 
 
 Col. Hollister had for years been advocating a trespass law, that 
 would compel the stock growers to fence or herd and allow the farmer 
 some chance to build up a home unmolested. As soon as the Legis- 
 lature went into session, the Colonel procured the passage of a tres- 
 pass law that abolished the necessity of expensive fencing to protect 
 crops. And from that law dates the new era of progress and prosper- 
 ity of Southern California, where the law was made applicable. 
 
 Immediately after the passage of this law, negotiations were again 
 opened for the purchase of the ranch and the terms agreed upon were 
 $500,000; the trespass law enhanced the value of real estate two-fifths 
 and it found ready purchasers. Suffice it to say, that in a few weeks 
 the stock was all taken and the company fully organized and survey- 
 ors set at work subdividing the lands. The grand sales to stock- 
 holders — for no others w T ere permitted to bid — commenced on Novem- 
 ber 9th, 1874, and continued for four days; when it was found that less 
 than one-third of the property had been sold for $750,000. 
 
 Immediately after the sales the colonists commenced moving in and 
 soon two hundred families were domiciled within the colony, and the 
 great majority tenacious of the principles on wdrich the colony was 
 founded. But this basic principle w T as destined to be infracted and 
 early in the history of the colony we find some fifty or more 
 ladies one afternoon entering the colony drug store and summarily 
 suppressing the traffic that had been illicitly conducted. Later on, a 
 saloon was blown to atoms, and lastly, one was torn down which re- 
 sulted in the prosecution of one of the leading citizens at Santa 
 Barbara, wdien a jury of twelve men, within one hour after the case 
 was submitted, brought in a verdict of not guilty. Thus, it is to be 
 hoped, has ended the business of transgressing the principles of the 
 colony, which now numbers between four and five hundred families, 
 constituting one of the most intelligent and moral communities in 
 the State. 
 
 There are nine schools within the colony, with a magnificent school 
 edifice in the town iDroper. The religious sentiment is represented by 
 most all denominations, the chief est being the North and South Meth- 
 odists who have each fine commodious churches. The town has all 
 the needed appliances for progress and quick interchange — a daily 
 mail, express and telegraph — with several mercantile houses of all 
 kinds, two physicians, one drug store, two hotels, one jewelry store, 
 one harness shop, two livery stables, and two blacksmith shops, with 
 two good wharves over which freight is received and shipped. The 
 
SANTA BAKBABA COUNTY. 41 
 
 town is located 16 miles from Los Alamos, 30 from Santa Maria, 28 
 from Guadalupe, 25 from Santa Ynez, and 60 from Santa Barbara. 
 The present means of reaching the colony is by steamer to Gaviota, 
 thence by stage to Lompoc, or by steamer to Port Harford, thence by 
 rail and stage to Lompoc. There is a good prospect of having the 
 railroad pass through the town of Lompoc on its way to Santa Bar- 
 bara, when, should that route be decided upon, the town may hope 
 to reach a population of thousands and become one of the busiest cen- 
 ters in all the western portion of Santa Barbara county, for then the 
 adjacent lands adapted to general farming, fruit and dairying would 
 soon come into market and find ready and willing takers at enhanced 
 prices. 
 
 Few have any idea of the mammoth ranchos lying within a radius 
 of twenty miles about the Lompoc Colony, and which, with railroad 
 facilities connecting the colony with Santa Barbara and Port Harford, 
 would converge their trade and business to that point. The most 
 valuable of the properties are as follows: San Julian, Cojo, La 
 Espada, Sal Si Puedes, Santa Rita, Santa Rosa, Purisima, and the Jesus 
 Maria. [For number of acres in each see page 12.] Of all these val- 
 uable properties only one, the Santa Pita rancho, is offered for sale 
 and settlement in homestead tracts. This valuable property lies 
 immediately east of and adjoining the Lompoc Colony, and is now be- 
 ing sold in tracts from five acres up to six hundred acres to suit the 
 purchaser. These lands embrace some of the finest fruit, grain and 
 grazing farms in the county, and are offered at fair prices. 
 
 The lands of all this section are adapted to the production of grain 
 of all kinds, vegetables in great variety and deciduous fruits of the 
 choicest quality. There are many fine small tracts of suburban town 
 property for sale in the town of Lompoc and often good opportuni- 
 ties to purchase farms at a fair advance to cover improvements. This 
 colony is' doubtless one of the very best communities in which to rear 
 a family, and it is of such principally that the community consists. 
 The people are fortunate in having a local paper, the Lompoc Record, 
 that has ever defended its principles and advocated its best interests 
 in every particular. By consulting its columns the seeker for a home 
 in the colony can be informed of everything of local interest. 
 
 The town of Lompoc is nine miles inland from the ocean, but its 
 lands and settlement extend to the beach, affording a varied scenery 
 and very pretty and attractive drives. The people are happy, pros- 
 perous and contented, and should be, for no portion of our great State 
 is blessed with greater natural advantages. 
 
i2 SANTA BAKBABA COUNTYV 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 SANTA RITA COLONY — RANCHOS SAN JULIAN,. SANTA ROSA ANI> JESUfe 
 
 MARIA. 
 
 Svr^HE broad plains and rolling lands that form- the- lower valley of 
 ^JL^ the Santa Ynez, and which, according to the table on page 12, 
 are understood as the Lompoc district, have been hitherto the partic- 
 ular strongholds of the sheep interest. In 1874, the firm of Hollister 
 & Bibblees owned a principality of 140,000 acres of land in this county 
 alone, having' an ocean frontage of more than twenty miles and all 
 this devoted to sheep. In those days the traveler might ride for miles 
 and miles, seeing no glimpse of human life except an occasional 
 lonely herder or vacfuero. But ono by one, the vast ranchos are 
 being partitioned into smaller domains, until irpon the plains once 
 sacred to roving bands of sheep may now be- noticed fields of golden, 
 grain, with cosy homesteads and neat school houses at intervals. 
 
 The Santa Rita colony is a community of about fifty families, 
 located on public lands found vacant between the Santa Rita and 
 Santa Rosa ranchos„ It lies eastward from Lompoc, eight miles. 
 The temperance sentiments of Lompoc also pervade this colony, it 
 being principally made up of families who were at one time residents 
 of Lompoc. The community is a prosperous one. Since the title 
 (which had been in dispute) was confirmed to the settlers, they all 
 feel wealthy on account of the enhanced value of their property. The 
 land is similar to that directly around Lompoc, of the same quality 
 and productiveness, and with a climate which is, if anything, somewhat 
 superior. Fine homes can be purchased here in 160-acre tracts, at a 
 very moderate- price, considering the soil, climate and desirable sur- 
 roundings. The natural outlet of this community is Lomx^oc; and 
 when there shall be good roads between these two colonies and a 
 proper bridge to span the Santa Ynez river (which sometimes rises to 
 unseemly heights in the rainy season) no other place would be ax>t to 
 be sought for business intercourse. 
 
 The broad acreage of the San Julian is still devoted to grazing. 
 This is the largest rancho in this district and lies southerly from the 
 Santa Ynez river. Its magnificent extent of fine rolling lands, hill 
 and bottom lands, well watered and timbered, as yet untouched 
 by the slaves of Ceres. The Santa Rosa rancho, north of the river 
 and just west of the San Carlos de Jonata, is also a magnificent prop- 
 erty, belonging to J. W. Cooper. It too, is well timbered, well 
 watered, and w T ith fine tracts of bottom lands, and broad, rolling 
 lands, which would, if divided and settled, make a number of com- 
 fortable farms. A large £>ortion of this rancho is especially fitted for 
 the dairying business. 
 
SAXTA CAUSAE A TJOTJNTY. 43 
 
 The Jesus Maria rancho, owned by J. Ben Burton, is ■washed 
 mpon its western border by the Pacific Ocean. Perhaps "it might 
 .more properly be classed with the ranchos of the Los Alamos valley, 
 •although the Santa Ynez river flows along its southern boundary; but 
 the Los Alamos river, called here, however, the San Antonio, runs 
 through the northern portion of the rancho. It v.ould well make two 
 principalities, and thus be classed in both valleys, and this is the way 
 in whieh the question was decided on page 12. The San Antonio 
 <creek is noted for being the most southern stream which is ascended 
 by salmon in the season. They come into this stream every year from 
 the sea and are caught there — not however, in great numbers. Some 
 4,000 acres of the Jesus Maria have been put in grain this year, mostly 
 wheat. All grains succeed well. Much of the land is rented out; 
 some of it to dairymen. With its two rivers and numerous springs, 
 the rancho seems especially adapted to this business. In fact this 
 might be said of a large majority of the lands bordering both on the 
 upper and on the lower Santa Ynez. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 M 
 
 l.os ALAMOS. 
 
 ?HE third natural division of Santa Barbara county, the valley of 
 Los Alamos, lies principally inland, its larger portion, contain- 
 ing the town of Los Alamos, being twenty-five or more miles from 
 the coast. It has been described as a long, narrow valley, lying be- 
 tween the Santa Ynez and the Santa Maria valleys. It is watered by 
 the Los Alamos arroyo. which rises in the San Rafael mountains, 
 and empties into the Pacific Ocean, after traversing the county for 
 about forty miles. But although the valley of Los Alamos is classed 
 as a "narrow" valley, there are large areas of rolling lands on each 
 side, which are rich and productive, not to mention the fertile valleys 
 between, opening into it. The soil of the valley itself is of rich adobe 
 loam or sandy loam, and seems to be especially adapted to wheat- 
 growing. It is estimated that in the district of Los Alamos, (seepage 
 12) there are 40,000 acres of the finest agricultural land. Although 
 the valley is ostensibly drained by the arroyo, yet as it occasionally 
 disappears from sight, as noted in a previous chapter, wells become 
 necessary for domestic purposes. Yet water is always obtainable at 
 a moderate depth, and there is no necessity for irrigation, except in 
 young orchards. 
 
 The name Los Alamos means "the cottonwoods," and there were 
 once many of these trees upon the ranch. The following description 
 of the town is taken from the Los Alamos Herald^ with the kind per- 
 mission of the writer, S. R. I. Sturgeon, Esq.: 
 
14 SAXTA BAEBAKA COtTNTT. 
 
 Id the year 1S67 Mr. John S. Bell obtained by purchase from 
 Jose Antonio De La Guerra y Carrillo, that portion of the rancho on 
 which the town of Los Alamos is situated, and for ten years devoted 
 it to the raising of sheep and. cattle, laboring* all that time under the 
 idea prevalent among old Californians, that nothing but grass would 
 grow without irrigation. This stu,te of tilings lasted until 1876, he 
 having in the meantime in 1869 built the hon&e in which he now re- 
 sides, since which time his residence has been in the vicinity of this 
 place. In 1873 the stage route, which previous to (hat year had 
 passed through the Tinequaic or- Foxen Ranch, was changed to the 
 road it now travels, and through La Graciosa «to Guadalupe, and the 
 building now occupied by L. Kahn as a restaurant, was erected for 
 the purpose of furnishing meals to the passengers by stage, and also 
 a barn to furnish accommodation to the stage horses. In 1876 the 
 first attempt at farming was made by C. D. Patterson, and proved 
 such a great success that the future of the valley as a producing cen- 
 ter, was assured, and seeing this result in the near future, Mr. A, 
 Leslie, still one of our most enterprisiug merchants, built a residence 
 and opened a store for the benefit of the future farmers of the vicin- 
 ity, followed by Mr. Snyder, proprietor of the Union Hotel building 
 and the Los Alamos Sample Rooms, which has since grown into one 
 of the best hotels in this end of Santa Barbara county. 
 
 In 1878 Mr. Patterson built the first livery, feed and sale stable and 
 has since found it so profitable that he has kept adding to it year by 
 year, until at the present time he is not only doing a fine business in 
 that line but has accumulated sufficient tovown one of the finest farms 
 in the valley, as an example of what can be done by a capital of en- 
 ergy and perseverance. In 1877, Mr. Bell, in conjunction with Dr. 
 J. B. Shaw, who had become owner of a portion of the Los Alamos 
 rancho laid out the town of Los Alamos, which now has one hundred 
 dwelling houses and all occupied. 
 
 In 1878, Mr. Bell, to further insure the prosperity of the new 
 town and its immediate vicinity, built a fine steam flouring mill, 
 which since that time has been run under the management of John 
 A. Purkiss, one of the best flour makers in Southern California, and 
 who has so far been able to supply the surrounding country with all 
 the flour needed, without as yet ascertaining the full capacity for pro- 
 duction of his mill. In 1882, Mr. Peter C >i;ier built the first public 
 hall in the place, which is now occupied by the I. O. G. T. The 
 lower floor is used as a justice's court room and carriage painting 
 establishment. 
 
 We have a nice school house on land donated by Dr. Shaw, for 
 that purpose. 
 
 "We have not as. yet a court house but we have a branch jail, 
 which, if not ornamental, is at least useful, as therein we give 
 
SANTA BAEBARA COUNTY. 45 
 
 lodging and meals to all prisoners from Santa Maria on their way to 
 the Hotel Broughton, and are equally willing to accommodate our 
 friends from Lompoc, only they are so very temperate in all things, 
 that it would appear as if they had no candidates for our hospitality. 
 
 Of merchants, we have three dealing in general merchandise — A. 
 Leslie, Laughlin Bros., and A. Weill & Co., from whom or through 
 whom you can procure anything from a needle to an anchor, princi- 
 pally the needle. Also one dealer in watches, clocks, jewelry, Yan- 
 kee notions, canned goods, fruit and a variety of articles, from 
 shaving your pocket to shaving your face, as in addition to all the 
 articles they have for sale, one of the partners sells his skill as a 
 barber. 
 
 We have two blacksmith and wagon-making shops where all kinds 
 of repairing of agricultural machinery is done, or new work built, 
 and one in which horseshoeing is a specialty. 
 
 About fifteen months ago the Pacific Coast R. R. reached this place, 
 where they have erected a fine passenger and freight depot, water 
 tanks and all the buildings necessary for carrying on their business; 
 also a telegraph Jine, putting us into telegraphic communication 
 with the outside world. For the last year we have had a lumber yard 
 with a sufficient supply and assortment of lumber for the immediate 
 neighborhood. 
 
 And now if we had a good hardware establishment, we would be 
 ready to enter into competition with any of the other towns in our 
 end of the county." 
 
 In addition to the points noted by Mr. Sturgeon, we must add 
 that the town is also furnished with a lawyer, (S. R. I. Sturgeon, 
 Esq.) and a newspaper, the Los Alamos Herald. Religious services 
 are provided by the M. E. Church, the minister in charge of the 
 circuit supplying also Santa Rita, Ballard's and Santa Ynez. Of 
 Societies, the Knights of Pythias, A. O. U. W., I. O. G. T. and 
 Chosen Friends are represented. 
 
 Part of the Los Alamos and the adjoining rancho of La Laguna, 
 are owned by Dr. J. B. Shaw, whose residence is in the city of Santa 
 Barbara. In 1867 he bought three leagues of La Laguna, of Celadonio 
 Gutierrez and two leagues of Los Alamos of Jose Antonio and Antonio 
 Maria de la Guerra. This was a few months previous to Mr. Bell's 
 purchase. The town was built upon lands belonging to both. A 
 large portion of Dr. Shaw's rancho is under cultivation, partly by 
 himself and partly by tenants settled upon it. Mr. Bell's lands are 
 also farmed to quite an exteut, but some portions are devoted to sheep 
 and stock-raising generally. 
 
 The wheat grown in this valley and ground in the flouring mill 
 by Mr. Purkiss, is said to be of so fine a quality and so sweet to the 
 
46 
 
 SANTA BAEBABA COUNTY. 
 
 taste, that the children of the valley cry for it in preference to the 
 finest cake. For this we have the testimony of Dr. Shaw himself. 
 
 Next the Los Alamos rancho is the Todos Santos, belonging to the 
 Newhall estate. The Casmalia rancho, on the coast, just north of the 
 Jesus Maria, was purchased two years ago of Mr. Burton, by Merritt 
 & Phcenix. It is a fine property, rolling lands, used for sheep and 
 dairies. It is well adapted for cutting up into small farms, being 
 well watered and with excellent soil. 
 
 CHAPTEE XIV. 
 
 SANTA MAEIA VABLET. 
 
 cVaI^E are indebted to Mr. James Morse for the following descrip- 
 yJQI^ tion of the Santa Maria Valley, with its two settlements, 
 Santa Maria and Guadalupe: 
 
 Santa Maria Valley, as generally understood, is almost wholly in 
 Santa Barbara county. A small portion of it called Oso Flaco, bor- 
 dering on the ocean, is in San Luis Obispo county; but as Oso Flaco 
 is a part of the Guadalupe rancho, which lies mainly in Santa Bar- 
 bara county, I think I may as well include it in my description of 
 this portion of Santa Barbara county. 
 
 Santa Maria valley runs due east from the ocean and is about 
 twenty-five miles long by an average of five miles wide (not including 
 the sandy plains on the south side) . East of this valley and connect- 
 ing with it at Fugler's Point is the valley of the Sisquoc, which con- 
 tinues due east some ten miles and is two miles wide in the widest 
 pait. On the south side of the valley and about four miles from the 
 ocean is a beautiful lake, which is about three miles long by half a 
 mile wide. This lake is a great resort for ducks and wild geese; white 
 swans also frequent this lake in the winter. 
 
 Nearly every acre of land in this valley is good agricultural land. 
 The Guadalupe rancho, containing over 32,000 acres, covers the west 
 end of the valley. As a cloud of litigation has hung over this and 
 the adjoining rancho on the east, there has never been a permanent, 
 healthful settlement. The land is mostly a rich black loam and adobe 
 mixed, and in favorable years has produced enormous crops of barley, 
 which seems to be the crop best suited to the soil and climate. Some 
 years wheat does well but is not so sure as barley. It has been proven 
 that much of the soil is peculiarly adapted to beets for the purpose 
 of the manufacture of sugar. It is also well suited to the production 
 of squashes, beans and potatoes. Mr. T. S. Brown raised a Peerless 
 potato last year that weighed seven and one-quarter pounds! Fruit 
 does well if protected- by wind-breaks. Mr. Brown also raised a 
 gloria mundi apple the same year that weighed nineteen ounces and an 
 
SANTA BARBAKA COUNTY. 47 
 
 Alexandria, seventeen ounces! He also had good cherries. He has 
 an excellent wind-break of cypress. This rancho is well watered* 
 there being several small never -failing streams of water and several 
 sloughs. Plenty of water is obtained at a depth of ten to fifteen feet 
 but is not of good quality. At a depth of one hundred feet very ex- 
 cellent water is struck, which rises in the pipes to within six or eight 
 feet of the surface. There are several flowing wells on low ground. 
 On the Oso Flaco are hundreds of acres of willow monte, and on the 
 hills on the south is an abundance of oak wood. The west end of the 
 rancho, for about four miles from the ocean, is almost entirely de- 
 voted to dairying. There are at least twenty-five dairies. These are 
 mostly owned by Swiss, and all are engaged in making butter, only 
 one dairy being devoted to cheese-making. From sixty to three hun- 
 dred cows are milked on these dairy farms, and it is a very profitable 
 business. 
 
 The town of Guadalupe was mostly built up in the years 1872 and 
 1873, and has been a very busy town, doing nearly all the business of 
 the whole valley until the last two or three years, since which time 
 Santa Maria has gained the ascendancy. 
 
 The Laguna rancho joins the Guadalupe on the east and is a fine 
 body of land. Many hundred acres have never yet been plowed. 
 
 East of the Laguna rancho is the Santa Maria settlement. This 
 settlement was made in the year 1869 on a large tract of Government 
 land containing about 60 square miles — sufficient for 240 farms. Dur- 
 ing the first three years these settlers had very hard times. Under 
 the most favorable circumstances the pioneers in a new country have 
 to experience many deprivations and hardships, but these settlers 
 suffered much more than the average pioneer. From the .first they 
 had to contest their claims in the courts against the claimants of the 
 Laguna and Guadalupe ranchos, and besides the grasshoppers and 
 wild horses destroyed almost their entire crops for three years. They 
 had to haul all their lumber from Port Harford, about thirty miles 
 distant, and pay for rough lumber there 830 per thousand feet. Some 
 of these settlers had to take their horses into the mountains to keep 
 them from starving, and kill deer and dry the venison, and gather 
 honey to sell in order to buy food and clothing for their families. 
 
 In 1868 Pat O'Neil started a store at La Graciosa where a 
 few families had settled. In 1870 Win. L. Adams started a similar 
 store about two miles west of the present town of Santa Maria. 
 Though he had but small capital, he had good backers in San Francisco 
 and through them and good financiering he was enabled to greatly 
 assist the settlers through these first years of their distress. Here he 
 still stands behind the counter in the old dilapidated store, regardless 
 of the fact that a busy and flourishing town has sprung up less than 
 
48 
 
 SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 
 
 two miles away. And many of his old customers, still grateful for 
 the many great favors he has shown them in their time of need, drive 
 through town and go to him for their goods. He has built up a beau- 
 tiful home, with orchard and vineyard, and eucalyptus wind-breaks; 
 is the possessor of thousands of acres of good land, many thousand 
 sheep, cattle and hogs. He has earned it all through honest, fair 
 dealing, and enjoys the esteem of all who know him. 
 
 The price of land has doubled, during the last two or three years, 
 and improved farms now sell at $40 per acre; unimproved from $8 to 
 $20. The experimental period has passed. The people of this valley 
 are now very prosperous and contented (many are not contented be- 
 cause they cannot get hold of all the land they want) . It is proven 
 that fruit will do well here, and in a few years a cannery and many 
 drying houses will be needed. A railroad running through the valley 
 to Port Harford satisfies a long felt want. The climate is very healthful 
 and is every year getting more agreeable; society is good; schools, 
 churches and fraternal orders are plentiful, and a people thus blessed 
 ought to happy and contented. 
 
 The town of Santa Maria, located 10 miles east from Guadalupe 
 has a post and express office, a weekly paper, (the Times) two hotels, 
 several stores, blacksmiths, wheelwrights, etc. East of the valley 
 proper are many beautiful, and very fertile small valleys and canons, 
 and elevated plains and rolling hills, sufficient to support hundreds 
 of families and also a prosperous town. And it is only a question of a 
 few years when a town will grow up somewhere in the neighborhood. 
 There are already three stores, a blacksmith and wheelwright shop, 
 and a church scattered through that section. It is supposed there is 
 considerable good government land yet in this end of the county, but 
 if there is it is all claimed by grant-holders. 
 
 Before the railroad was built Point Sal and Morritto were the prin- 
 cipal points of shipment for the products of this section. Point Sal 
 is now dismantled, but Morritto' s wire suspension chute landing is 
 still running. About one and one-half miles from Morritto is a gyp- 
 sum quarry of very excellent quality which is being steadily mined 
 and shipped to San Francisco. 
 
 Along the coast of this valley gold is found in the black sands of 
 the beach in quantities that pays well at certain seasons of the year to 
 wash. Near Mussel Rocks, Abernethy and St. Ores washed these 
 sands with success for three or four seasons. Now the claim is own- 
 ed and worked by Abernethy and Wall. Three men often wash out 
 8150 per week. Santa Maria is about 30 miles by rail south from San 
 Luis Obispo, and 40 from Port Harford, and about 80 northwest from 
 Santa Barbara. 
 
nj^R^c; 
 
 Points Visited by Tourists in and About 
 Santa Barbara. 
 
 Fxmtsb del Castillo— Tlie Arlington.— The 
 Old Mission. 
 
 < *» G ^| VEEY good idea of three salient points in the city of Santa 
 
 Barbara is given in the above picture. First, the Punta del 
 Castillo, showing the curve on the beach between Stearns' wharf and 
 the rocky point, with the slow sea crawling up the sand, the marks 
 of carriage-wheels, and upon the bluff the mansion and grounds of Mr- 
 Dibblee. This is always a favorite spot for idle tourists. The walk 
 
50 
 
 SAXTA BARBARA COUNTY. 
 
 from the wharf to the point — about half a mile — just serving to give 
 one a good appetite for his dinner. A road was once built through 
 the rocks, that carriages might drive beyond the point, where a sec- 
 ond curve of beach lies below the cliffs; but it was found impracti- 
 cable to keep it in order, owing to a peculiar fancy of the waves for 
 tossing things carelessly about, and although considerable money had 
 been spent upon it by a public-spirited lady, the attempt was finally 
 abandoned. The road-making changed the point in some respects, 
 and obliterated a shelf known as the "lovers' seat," where formerly 
 one could sit above the surf upon the seaward side of the rock, wholly 
 hidden from strollers along the beach. % 
 
 The centre of the illustration gives a view of the Arlington, a 
 structure which is a source of pride to every citizen of Santa Barbara. 
 The picture, however, fails to portray the beautiful grounds sur- 
 rounding the hotel and covering five acres. It gives no idea of the 
 always emerald lawns, dotted with palins and other sightly growths, 
 of the gay beds of choice flowers, the circle of lilies about the foun- 
 tain, the tennis-lawn and deer park, or the thickly-growing groves in 
 the back-ground. The Arlington is the most capacious and finely 
 appointed hotel in Southern California, designed especially for first- 
 class patronage. Besides its handsome suites of rooms, one of which 
 is called "the Princess suite," having been occupied by the 
 Princess Louise, there are ample parlors and wide airy halls; and 
 from the broad verandas filled in the season with chattering groups 
 of tourists from morn till night, a magnificent view is £>resented of 
 the mountains and ocean with the distant islands lying like ame- 
 thysts upon the blue horizon. 
 
 Lastly, the striking Moorish architecture of the old Mission is 
 shown, with its long facade and two white towers, though it appears 
 in the picture far less prominent and picturesque than it is in reality. 
 It was built cf sandstone from the neighboring hills, with walls over 
 five feet in thickness and supported by heavy buttresses. In front of 
 the massive edifice still remain the ruins of a large fountain of or- 
 nate workmanship. The church is high and narrow, 150 feet long, 
 with an organ loft at one end and the high altar at the other. In the 
 vault beneath lies the remains of the first Bishop of the two Califor- 
 nias, Don Francisco Garcia Diego, and over his tomb still hangs the 
 l>relate's antique sombrero. The vault was recently re-opened for the 
 interment of the good old Father Sanchez, who had ministered for 
 years at the altar. The walls inside the church are covered with 
 paintings, some of a most eccentric character. In the belfries of 
 solid masonry still swing the ancient bells; although one which had 
 become useless by reason of a crack in its mighty sides, was recently 
 recast and returned to the Mission, as good as new, and can once 
 more mingle with the somewhat harsh and dissonant chime. To the 
 
SANTA BAKBAEA COUNTY. 51 
 
 left of the church is a wing, one hundred and thirty feet in length, 
 which with the pillars and arches of its front corridor is still in fair 
 preservation and inhabited by what remains of the grey friars of St. 
 Francis, being the only monastery in the United States. The good 
 Padres have in their possession many of the ancient archives of the 
 Missions, and lists of the flocks and herds of by-gone days, invaluable 
 to a historian, and which Mr. H. H. Bancroft, in his grand historical 
 work, has noted as the most complete of any to which he had access. 
 On one side is the large old olive orchard and all about are the re- 
 mains of the old dwellings of the Indian converts, though much has 
 been 'displaced in the last ten years. 
 
 It is well known that the Fathers selected the choicest sites along 
 the coast for their own use; it is evident they were men of sound 
 judgment and clear sighted prophecy in many respects, and culti- 
 vated tastes. In the location of this Mission they were particularly 
 happy; building stone, fuel and timber were abundant and an inex- 
 haustible supply of mountain water close at hand; they were suffi- 
 ciently removed from the sea to be secure from hostile attacks from 
 that quarter with such naval ordnance as was then in vogue, and on 
 an eminence which swept the valley east and west for many miles; its 
 white domes being the first object to meet the eye of the traveler from 
 whatever direction he might approach; the position was commanding, 
 the soil rich and kindly, the scenery unsurpassed. The keen-eyed 
 Padres had marked the place on their frequent trips along the coast, 
 both by land and sea, during the seventeen years they had been in 
 the country. But we do not propose here to give a history of the 
 Mission; our province is but to point out to the traveler the sights of 
 Santa Barbara, and of these the Mission is not the least worthy of a 
 pilgrimage. 
 
 SURF BATHING. 
 
 Between the Punta del Castillo and Stearns' wharf, about half a 
 mile of beach is the favorite resort of bathers. Above all other at- 
 tractions, the possession of this beach and the facilities it offers for a 
 dip into the surf, is the peculiar advantage enjoyed by Santa Bar- 
 bara over all other cities of Southern California. A glance at the 
 tables of temperature will show its superiority to Santa Cruz, the 
 only bathing-place which rivals it upon this coast. In the South it 
 can have no rival. Los Angeles and San Bernardino are inland, San 
 Diego lacks the ocean beach. There is a pleasant superstition abroad, 
 which has been encouraged by careless writers, that sea-bathing is 
 possible at any season of the year. It may be, for a strong and 
 healthy swimmer — and indeed we cannot deny that some enthusiasts 
 are ready to tempt the waves every month in the year. But we 
 would not advise a delicate invalid to wade into the breakers until the 
 beach has been properly warmed by the summer sun. Aside from 
 
52 SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 
 
 the half-mile curve alluded to, the level strip of sand reaches away 
 beyond the wharf; and when the tide is low enough to round the 
 points, it is a most delightful drive, even as far as the rocks of the 
 Bincon. This drive to Carpinteria at low tide, returning by the road 
 through Montecito, is a favorite device for killing time on a summer 
 — or winter — day. We give the following account of surf-bathing, 
 written by one of the somewhat-too-enthusiastic gentlemen alluded 
 to, only premising that there is much of actual truth in the rose- 
 colored vision : 
 
 "Santa Barbara at the present time stands preeminent for sea- 
 bathing facilities over any other sea coast town of California. The 
 water is of so mild a nature that an ordinarily healthy person can 
 enjoy a bath in the sea every month in the year. Sheltered as the 
 harbor is on all sides, it is a rare exception for the sea to be rough or 
 the breakers at all high. Twenty-nine days out of the thirty the sea 
 is as smooth as a mill-pond, and the most timid bather need have no 
 fear of battling with the surf. There is no undertow. The slope of 
 the beach is so gradual that the bather can wade out for several yards 
 without getting above the waist in the water. The beach itself is as 
 smooth as a billiard table, and is composed of sand of the finest 
 quality. The highest temperature of the water in the harbor has 
 been 66 degrees in the middle of summer, and in the winter the tem- 
 perature has never fallen below 59 degrees, and has only reached that 
 on rare occasions. The average temperature is estimated at 62 degrees. 
 Santa Barbara is essentially the only place on the coast where winter 
 bathing can be indulged in with comfort. Visitors who have tested 
 the fact are unanimous in their expressions of delight and wonder at 
 the remarkably pleasant and even temperature of the water at a time 
 of year in which they have been accustomed to dread the application 
 of cold water to their skins." 
 
 Bath-houses and accommodations in the matter of bathing-suits, 
 towels, etc., have been for the past few years managed by Mr. and 
 Mrs. Fred. Forbush. Their establishment is always open during 
 the season, and in the winter upon stated days or by appointment. 
 
 BUETON MOUND. 
 
 Many of the residents of Santa Barbara know this interesting 
 spot only as the late residence of Don Luis Burton, as a beautiful 
 shady spot for picnics, and as the destined site of a grand sea-side 
 hotel. Travelers upon the decks of passing steamers admire the 
 beauty of the place, which stands, a romantic landmark of the past, 
 only a few hundred feet from the landing-place. It is a mound, cir- 
 cular in form, standing prominently above the level of the surround- 
 ing plain, about 400 feet from the surf which breaks upon the smooth 
 and sandy beach at its foot. The top of the mound is about thirty 
 feet above high water and the mound itself comprises about two acres, 
 
SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 53 
 
 although the property of which it is a part contains thirty acres. 
 From the level summit may be seen the shore line for thirty miles or 
 more to the east; to the south, the channel and its towering islands 
 present a fascinating prospect; to the west, the light-house, perched 
 upon the bluff, and nearer, the "Castle Bock" of the Punta del Cas- 
 tillo, around which the restless waves invoke a ceaseless melody. 
 Landward, the city, the foothills, in gold or in green, and the Mission 
 towers combine to form an almost unparalleled picture, and one 
 generally neglected by visitors. 
 
 Some years ago this mound with its adjacent surrounding jn'operty 
 was purchased by a number of the prominent citizens of Santa Bar- 
 bara, organized and incorporated as the Seaside Hotel Association. 
 It is held by this association for the purpose of using it as a grand 
 sanitarium and sea-side hotel site. It is the best place for a sea-side 
 hotel in the United States. It has a water front upon a smooth sea-, 
 beach; magnificent view in all directions, an abundance of shade 
 trees, old and beautiful, rich soil and a luxuriant growth of green 
 grass transplanted years ago, and propagated from the Sandwich 
 Islands. This grass is remarkable for its softness and its luxuriance. 
 
 The mound appears to have been a system of subterranean water 
 courses. Springs flow in all directions, and the most remarkable 
 feature about it is their variety. At one place there is a clear blue 
 spring of sulphur water bubbling up and discharging into the grass 
 beneath the olive groves. At another place an "Iron Spring," the wa- 
 ter of which is strongly impregnated and the surroundings covered 
 with iron rust. Near the summit a spring of pure water which is used 
 to irrigate an immense vegetable garden, from which Santa Barbara 
 draws its principal supply of vegetables. The property is intersected 
 or traversed by a stream of water from the source of which the city 
 derives its water supply above the Mission. The water of the sulphur 
 spring is similar to that of the Montecito Hot Springs, except in 
 its temperature. But arrangements are made for warming the water, 
 and baths can now be obtained by invalids. The mound is a favorite 
 place for celebrations. On the "Glorious Fourth" and other occa- 
 sions, the good people of the city, with their wives and families, 
 throng to this cool retreat, with baskets and orators and all the other 
 impedimenta of the day, making the corridors of the old mansion 
 ring with modern life, which must astonish the historic and pre- 
 historic gentlemen underneath. The following extracts from an article 
 in the Daily Independent of Oct. 19th, 1883, give a vivid description 
 of the traditions of the mound: "For many years the coast of Cali- 
 fornia and Oregon has been explored for ethnological relics. It has 
 been dug up by different experts seeking to obtain the various imple- 
 ments of household goods and gods buried with the dead, who knew 
 the patient labor of the Indian during life passed with him to the 
 
51 
 
 SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 
 
 grave. In other words, the result of his work did not, as with us, go 
 to the living — that it was superstition, no one in these days doubts* 
 And hence we find in the grave the cooking utensils, the arrows, fish 
 hooks, the crude pan for baking purposes, the tasteful olla for boiling, 
 the flint mortar for grinding corn and beans or seed, and various 
 other implements, the present generation cannot understand for what 
 purpose they were made. Even the everlasting pipe is found buried 
 with the smoker. But speaking of the Burton Mound, its origin is 
 unknown to men now living, but it is known to have been formed of 
 the bones, the trinkets, the cooking utensils and weapons of thousands 
 of natives of this coast. It is in fact one grand catacomb or deposit of 
 human bodies covered with immense quantities of sea shells. The 
 interior of the mound has never been explored. No defiling spade or 
 shovel has been permitted to unearth the immense quantities of 
 Indian remains and relics therein deposited. Sometimes when a tree 
 has died and it has been deemed desirable to remove the stump or 
 roots, in digging it out, the earth was found full of Indian relics such 
 as stone utensils, skulls and ingeniously made articles of orD anient. 
 Many efforts have been made to obtain permission to explore the in- 
 terior of this mound, but thanks to the vigilance and care of Captain 
 William E. Green well, a manager of the "Sea Side Hotel Associa- 
 tion," the valuable ethnological treasures of the mound remain 
 intact. They are perhaps the most complete and valuable collection 
 of aboriginal relics in the United States and will some day be re- 
 garded with more interest than at present. 
 
 There is a tradition extant which says that this mound was the 
 regal residence of the Grand Sachem or Inca of all the tribes of this 
 Southern coast. Around its base the Supreme Chief of all the South- 
 ern tribes held regal court. Upon it the priests and medicine men 
 of the tribes held their mystic conclaves, and no doubt enacted savage 
 tragedies in centuries gone by. 
 
 Vancouver, the English explorer, in his three volumes published 
 in 1798, speaks of this mound as the abode of the Great Chief, which 
 undoubtedly it was; in the year 1883, or 95 years since his visit, it is 
 yet unexplored, and is covered with luxuriant vegetation and em- 
 bowered with vines and fruit trees. 
 
 Macgregor in his three volumes, "Progress in America," pub- 
 lished in 1847, speaks of this mound. It is certainly an interesting 
 spot and well worth the consideration of the directors of the various 
 universities throughout the world who might seek to obtain the buried 
 relics of a past race." 
 
 HOT SPEINGS OF MONTECITO. 
 
 The Montecito Hot Springs have for years past been noted for 
 their healing powers. Passing the "grapevine property" and the 
 
SANTA BAKBAKA COUNTY. 55 
 
 beautiful places of Col. Hayne and Mr. Bond, the road leads up the 
 mountain, about three-quarters of a mile of steep ascent, until the 
 spot is reached where twenty hot springs flow from crevices in the 
 solid ledges of rock which form the head of the canon. And an un- 
 canny canon it is too! But the sick drink of the waters and are 
 healed. Many dip into the steaming pool for the pure pleasure of 
 the bath. These remedial waters are about 1,450 feet above the sea, 
 and about six miles from Santa Barbara. The various springs have a 
 temperature of from 60 to 122 degrees Fahr. The analysis made by 
 Dr. Oscar Loew shows the following constituents of the two principal 
 springs: No. 1 — Sodium carbonate 29.6, sodium chloride 8.7, sodium 
 sulphate 5, silicic acid 4.2, with traces of calcium potassium, sulphur- 
 etted hydrogen and free carbonic acid. The other is similar, save 
 that it has but a trace of sodium sulphate, less of the carbonate and 
 chloride and a larger proportion of silicic acid. 
 
 The discovery of the springs by Mr. Wilbur Curtiss, who lived 
 there for many years, was made in 1855. His health had broken 
 down in the mines and he was wandering through the country in 
 search of health and upon some other unknown enterprise, when he 
 came across a party of Indians at the mouth of this canon. One 
 among them was supposed to be over a hundred years old; and he 
 led Mr. Curtiss to these springs, and by signs intimated that he would 
 grow well and strong by bathing in the waters. Through an inter- 
 preter, the old Indian then told Mr. Curtiss that since he had been a 
 little boy he had drank and bathed there, and that the springs were 
 "the best in the world." Mr. Curtiss remained, drank and bathed in 
 this pool of Siloam and was healed. He then took up a claim there, 
 seeing that the spot might prove a valuable property in the future. 
 At first, there was but a difficult trail to lead to the springs, and over 
 this, for years he carried his provisions and building materials. This 
 was widened and improved, until there is a fair road, over which a 
 stage carries invalids and tourists and the thousand and one items 
 to make them comfortable. Mr. Curtiss first camped with his 
 blankets, then a tent arose, then the first rude hut, then the little 
 cottage, and so building after building was added, until now it seems 
 like a little mountain village, but alas! the poor old gentleman is no 
 longer of the earth to see the gradual fulfillment of his cherished 
 plans. 
 
 It is learned upon good authority, that when the country still 
 owed allegiance to the Crown of Spain, the Spanish government sent 
 out a commission of scientific observers, with orders to make an ex- 
 amination and analysis of all the then known mineral waters in 
 Mexico and the Californias. This commission after spending much 
 time in the prosecution of their inquiries, reported the most favor- 
 ably upon the properties of the Montecito springs. For rheumatism 
 
56 
 
 SAXTA BARBARA COUNTY. 
 
 and scrofulous diseases they are said to prove in many cases a specific; 
 but no invalid should venture to drink or bathe in the waters without 
 medical advice, since the springs are not effective in all diseases. 
 
 Yistors to the Springs are always shown the view from "Lookout 
 Point" which is reached by a winding trail on the mountain side. One 
 of the finest views is there obtained, of the valley of Santa Barbara, 
 with its city and suburbs, and the ocean and islands beyond. 
 
 These springs of Montecito are the best known and most accessi- 
 ble, but not by any means the only mineral springs in Santa Barbara 
 county. Over the San Marcos Pass other springs have been found 
 and utilized, and there are springs also in many parts of the Santa 
 Ynez range, both cold and hot, generally strongly impregnated with 
 sulphur. The following description of San Marcos or Mountain 
 Glen springs was written by Professor G. R. Crotch: "These springs 
 are conspicuous among the natural beauties of Santa Barbara. The 
 drive over the mountain is in itself replete with beauty: after you 
 cross the summit of the Santa. Ynez where all is luxuriant and green, 
 streams crossing the road freely, level plateaus of abundant grass, un- 
 dulating groves of oak, the chaparral thick with flowers, all form a 
 picture of rare beauty. The 'springs are situated in Mountain Glen, 
 one of the many canons crossed by the stage road, and debouching 
 into the Santa Ynez river about; six miles from "Pat's," (on the sum- 
 mit) at the San Marcos house, an old ruined adobe building. From 
 here a tolerable road has been cut through the brush for about a mile, 
 the latter part passing through a dense forest growth. At last a little 
 log cabin is reached, and this marks the site of the principal 
 springs. The scene is picturesque in the extreme, a densely wooded 
 canon, with sides nearly vertical, about 250 feet high and clothed 
 with brushwood; the bed of the stream thickly covered with various 
 forest trees. Two sycamores opposite the cabin are at least 70 feet 
 high and as straight as palm trees. The stream itself, steaming some- 
 what in the cool air, combines to render the effect unique. The bed 
 of this stream is of cold and beautifully clear water; in this at inter- 
 vals, arise five or six different hot springs, none too warm for the 
 hands and all slightly impregnated with sulphur. Other cold springs 
 more strongly impregnated, arise also at the edge of the main bed. 
 The warmer springs have coated the stones with a characteristic 
 green coating as the singular springs in the Azores do." 
 
 These springs have been found beneficial in many instances, and 
 there are other attractions also in the vicinity. The valley below 
 abounds in quail, the streams are stocked with trout, and ii the so- 
 journer be a naturalist a wide and productive field is here open to 
 him, as insects of many interesting varieties have been found in this 
 neighborhood by visitors fond of the "science of bugs and things." 
 The springs are now owned by T. H. Hough, who has made some im- 
 
SANTA BAKBAJKA COUNTY. 57 
 
 provements, and provides very comfortable beds for guests, of whom 
 lie has many during the summer months. The stage passes the 
 mouth of the canon every day, and visitors are there met by Mr. 
 Hough if proper notice is given, or if the guests are not of the invalid 
 variety, they can very easily make their way to Mountain Glen on 
 foot. 
 
 THE LIGHTHOUSE. 
 
 A short drive, fit for an invalid on a pleasant day, is the way to 
 the lighthouse upon the mesa. The idea of a lighthouse ordinarily 
 suggests a storm-beaten coast, a leaden sky, with the howling winds 
 and furious rain creating a wild uproar, in unison with the savage 
 breakers dashing on the rocky base of a tall and lonely tower. But 
 this is a peaceful and home-like spot. The sky is blue, the blue 
 channel smiles in the sun, unruffled for months at a time. Some- 
 times a soft haze half obscures the islands; or a fog bank rises from 
 the ocean like a distant range of mountains. 
 
 The lighthouse stands upon a fertile mesa, only a half hour's ride 
 from the city. The keeper, who has trimmed the lamp for twenty- 
 eight years, came with her husband when the lighthouse was built. 
 She subsequently assumed the sole charge, and for nineteen years 
 has but once left the beacon light. Mrs. Williams is, in fact, ttie 
 veteran lighthouse keeper of the coast, and is always ready and will- 
 ing to exhibit her charge to visitors. The lighthouse is a homelike 
 edifice in its design giving no evidence of the extreme solidity of its 
 walls. The house is built upon most solid foundations, its walls be- 
 ing of stone two feet in thickness. From these rises a tower of bricks 
 inside of which a winding staircase leads to a small apartment near 
 the top. From this a short iron ladder leads through a small man 
 hole in the floor of the lantern room above, which aperture is so 
 small as to require considerable effort on the part of a portly person 
 to squeeze through. On the first landing a notice, to visitors, pro- 
 vided by the Government, cautions them against scratching or de- 
 facing the lantern or the property in any way. The lamp is a Hains, 
 32 candle power, visible twenty miles on a clear night, and is a fixed 
 white light. The glass consists of a focal plane with eight prisms; 
 five above and three below. As Mrs. Williams carefully removes the 
 cloth from around the object upon which she has lavished such assid- 
 uous care for many years the brilliancy of its shining sides are almost 
 blinding. The reflector shines like a huge diamond, not a scratch 
 upon its surface nor a speck of dust, testifying in its splendid con- 
 dition the care it has received. The lamp placed back of this glass 
 is an argand burner of anything but imposing appearance. Every- 
 thing about the tower is a model of good house-keeping or lighthouse- 
 keeping. In the family rooms below are gathered trophies of sea and 
 
58 
 
 SANTA BAEBAKA COUNTY. 
 
 shore. Shells, starfish, sea-urchins and the like washed up from the 
 .sea at the base of the cliff upon which stands the lighthouse itself. 
 The view from the railed platform about the top of the beacon is su- 
 perb. The Goleta landing is visible to the right, the islands in front 
 and the wharf of Santa Barbara is hid from sight by the graceful 
 lines of Castle Point. 
 
 LAKE FENTON. 
 
 About four miles from the city, on the Kancho Positas y la Calera, 
 is a lovely little lake in the centre of a rim of hills, which are covered 
 in early spring with a green sward and dotted with stately oaks. It 
 is a pleasant destination for a short drive, and the name was formally 
 bestowed upon the little lake during the visit of Governor Fenton of 
 New York. The party of sponsors included several prominent men 
 from the East, two or three army officers and a few citizens of Santa 
 Barbara. Mr. Charles Nordhoff alludes to the spot in his work on 
 California, and mentions a picnic there on the 22d of February. The 
 lake was formerly known as Laguna Blanco. 
 
 AN INDIAN VILLAGE. 
 
 'There are many places of historic interest in this valley; only a 
 few of which can be referred to — some of them date so far back that 
 they are hidden in the mists of antiquity. 
 
 At Goleta, six miles west of Santa Barbara, is a place of great in- 
 terest to antiquarians. It is the former site of one or more Indian 
 villages, whose origin is prehistoric. From this locality, named by 
 them the "Big Bonanza" a corps of Government scientists exhumed 
 about ten tons of relics that were shipped to the Smithsonian Insti- 
 tute at "Washington, and finally distributed among the leading scien- 
 tific museums of the world. When the first white man visited this 
 coast, 342 year's ago, there was a dense population in this valley and 
 numerous villages, which were ruled over by an Indian Princess who 
 lived in this village, then called Ciacut. The dwellings have all disap- 
 peared, only the kitchen debris remains to mark the homes of this once 
 populous race. The dancing circle is plainly defined, for so firmly 
 had the soil been beaten down by countless generations of dancers, 
 that vegetation still refuses to grow in the sacred inclosure. Cabrillo 
 says: "They had large public squares in their villages, and an in- 
 closure like a circle, and around this they have many blocks of stone 
 set in the ground, which issue about three palms, and in the middle 
 of the inclosure they have sticks of timber driven into the ground, 
 like masts and very thick, and they have many pictures on the same 
 posts, and we believe that they worship them, for when they dance 
 they caper around the inclosure." Their dancing was accompanied 
 
SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 59 
 
 by chanting, slapping of hands, blowing on whistles, beating of 
 drums and rattling of shells filled with pebbles. They danced to pro- 
 pitiate the divinity, they danced when successful in fishing or hunt- 
 ing, they danced at a marriage and at a funeral. The historian says 
 such was the delight with which they took part in their festivities that 
 they often continued dancing day and night, and sometimes entire 
 weeks." 
 
 MISSION CANON — SEVEN FALLS. 
 
 The Mission creek, or rather the Arroyo Pedrogoso, has several 
 times been mentioned as the souce of the city's water supply, and also 
 for the scenic effects along its sparkling path. The day on which no 
 picnickers are camped under the oaks and sycamores, somewhere be- 
 tween the Mission buildings and the Seven Falls, would be a frigid 
 day indeed, and one not likely to be met with in the summer time. 
 Families often take their simple tents and household stuff and stay 
 for days or even weeks. It is so near to the city that any person of 
 average health can easily walk to a pretty picnic spot. But to the 
 Seven Falls is a climb to which only the strongest and most enthusias- 
 tic do not succumb; although the reward is great. There is nothing on 
 earth so lovely as a mountain brook, and of all mountain brooks, this 
 is one of the loveliest — the clearest, the purest, the most bewitching. 
 From the hollow just behind the Mission to the furthest springs, is a 
 succession of beautiful, wild, natural scenery. If it has a fault, it is 
 the superabundance of campers (all with distressing appetites) in the 
 season. 
 
 MOUNTAIN TEAILS. 
 
 Northward from the city, an old trail crosses the Santa Ynez 
 range, into the upper Santa Ynez valley, descending into the aban- 
 doned quicksilver camp of Los Prietos. A description by the Rev. 
 S. R. Weldon, of a trip over the range is here given, which will per- 
 haps tempt a tourist or two to go and do likewise. He says: "We 
 struck the mountain's foot at the mouth of the Cold Spring canon. 
 For a mile or so it was easy work, till we approached the Cascades, 
 where the brook tumbles down a lofty precipice, perhaps 300 feet 
 high, which blocks the way up the gorge. So following the narrow 
 trail to the left, up we climb, stopping every few rods to rest our 
 panting steeds. At first we almost shrink from looking down into 
 the abyss below us, but we soon get accustomed to it. The sense of 
 security grows upon us, and soon we can carelessly gaze down the 
 steep declivity — a single mis-step and we could not stop for a thousand 
 feet. But our sure-footed animals make no mis-steps. They do not 
 stumble; we feel safe and are safe. Yet it would be a bold man who 
 
60 SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 
 
 would dare to ride one of our large "American" horses on these 
 mountain trails; but mustangs and mules are very sure-footed and 
 even ladies learn to ride them on these trails without fear. In two 
 and one-half hours we have reached the crest of the long ridge that 
 for so many miles separates the Santa Ynez from the Santa Barbara 
 valley. I marvel to find it so sharp and narrow, scarcely a level yaid 
 of ground anywhere. The prospect is most striking. One hundred 
 and twenty miles of coast line beneath, the beautiful valley with the 
 pretty town — you can almost name the familiar streets and pick out 
 the houses. Then the ocean and the islands! How quietly, how 
 grandly beautiful! But turn around; could anything more wild and 
 desolate be imagined. See, range after range of bare, bleak, verdure- 
 less mountains. . Thirty miles of waste ! You have heard that deer, 
 bears and mountain lions roam amid these starving sierras, and won- 
 der what they find to eat. But there are hidden canons and unseen 
 valleys^ where are forests and grass; sufficiently wild and barren, but 
 not quite so desolate as it seems. 
 
 But now we descend the steep declivity to the north. There are 
 quicksilver mines and hints of more valuable metals; but nobody has 
 yet grown rich from the minerals stored among these rough treasure- 
 houses. Perhaps in some future time they may. In a couple of 
 hours we reach the dwelling of the laborers who work at the quick- 
 silver mine; a free-hearted hospitality offers food and lodging. But 
 we came to camp out, and camp we will. So, after a lunch and rest, 
 we wend our way up the valley to a spot where grass, water and 
 shade may be found, and having staked out our horses, build our fire. 
 
 Having eaten our supper and gathered the tall fragrant herbs for 
 our couches, we roll up in our blankets to sleep under the stars. How 
 sweet and how exhilarating is the air of the night in these dry soli- 
 tudes! * * * Next morning, about half a mile from our camp, a 
 bear appears on the opposite side of a gorge, within easy rifle shot; 
 but the brute seems to know that we do not carry Winchester rifles 
 and so leisurely walks along and in ten minutes disappears in the 
 thick trees at the bottom of the canon. These are very shy animals, 
 seldom seen, even where they are numerous, so we counted ourselves 
 fortunate to have made his bearship's acquaintance. * * * Keturning, 
 at 7 o'clock we reached the summit, and there we saw what has often 
 been described, and its wondrous beauty, so difficult to imagine until 
 seen — the clouds at our feet, resting against the mountain side and 
 stretching far away to the distant horizon, the mountainous islands 
 alone pushing up their peaks above the vast billowy expanse, its 
 beautiful folds, white as the driven snow. * * * Then down the 
 steep mountain side and. when in a couple of hours we reached home, 
 the sun was shining there too." 
 
SANTA BAKBAKA COUNTY. 61 
 
 UPPEB SANTA YNEZ. 
 
 The preceding description of a mountain trail, it will be seen, 
 lands the traveler amid the unique scenery of the upper Santa Ynez, 
 where in comparatively modern ages, Titanic forces burst through the 
 mountain barriers, letting pass the silver river and showing upon the 
 scarred precipices veins of cinnabar, where the strata were torn vio- 
 lently asunder. Since there are no longer miners to offer "food and 
 lodging" the trip can only be made by one who is able and willing to 
 "rough it." But the hunter will find it a veritable Paradise on earth; 
 for deer are plentiful in the caiions and among the wooded ridges, 
 and in the cool shadows of the rocks lurk the wary mountain trout — 
 luxury of luxuries. Here too, the man who has lost a grizzly can find 
 him. 
 
 As for scenery, there are places which rival the Yosemite in 
 grandeur; the former mining camp of Los Prietos is overshadowed 
 by a precipice fifteen hundred feet high ; a steep and solid rock, up whose 
 face not even a goat could climb. The effect of this great impene- 
 trable wall by moonlight is weird and solemn; its awful shadow 
 looms above like a perpetual reproach against the littleness of man 
 and the insignificance of all his works. Between the two deserted 
 camps of Los Prietos and Santa Ynez, the river runs through a nar- 
 row valley, between mountains red with cinnabar, sometimes iinder 
 overhanging limestone walls and opening out again into little oak- 
 covered ilats. One enormous rock, which scarcely allows the stream 
 to pass, was aptly named by the miners Gibraltar, and near its base 
 the still unexplored cave of Najalayegua opens its mouth. In places 
 great red boulders of cinnabar lie piled upon each other with prodi- 
 gal recklessness. Near where formerly the upper mine was worked, 
 high up on the mountain side, is a little castle built of cinnabar, held 
 as a fort during one of the many fights between rival claimants to the 
 mines. There are other points, besides the abandoned mines, worth 
 visiting by those who can dispense with the "blessings of what is 
 called civilization" and have breath left for climbing. And in the 
 purple distance the San Ptafael range seems to stretch away into in- 
 finity, with the mineral secrets of its wild unknown recesses — and all 
 impress the beholder with the glory of this gracious and terrible 
 saint in her splendid solitude. 
 
 THE SAN MARCOS PASS. 
 
 The toll road over the San Marcos Pass, which is the identical 
 spot where Fremont descended upon the town in 1846, offers attractions 
 to tourists, but this is also of the "roughing it" variety. The view from 
 the summit is superb and there are many spots suitable for camping. 
 The air upon the mountain is, in some states of physical disease, 
 quite beneficial; as when fogs cover the valley, it is clear and bright 
 
SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 
 
 upon the summit. But to mention one mountain retreat is to mention 
 all, and so we will but cursorily speak of other noted spots which are 
 famous among campers. 
 
 GAVIOTA PASS. 
 
 Taking the avenue which leads past the Hollister and Cooper 
 ranchos, past the lovely Tecolote and other coast canons which have 
 been mentioned previously, twenty-five miles away, we reach El Cap- 
 itan, the usual tarrying place of campers en route for the upper 
 country. The valley here is narrow. The wooded canon, with its 
 gurgling brook, pushes itself out into the sea. Long lines of trees 
 across the open country meet and mingle with the line of the ocean; a 
 low promontory stands out to the south, making a little cove where a 
 skiff might be beached unhindered by the breakers beyond. By the 
 brook, with its mimic falls and pools, we know El Capitan. From 
 thence, we follow for fifteen miles the line of the coast, where num- 
 berless canons open to the sea, until we reach the Gaviota landing; 
 thence turning away from the coast, where a mountain stream has 
 broken through, we make the Gaviota Pass — a natural chasm about 
 sixty feet wide through the range, and within a mile of the sea. It is 
 a delightful trip in summer, but when the summit of the Pass is 
 reached, the cold wind blowing from the ocean meets the dusty trav- 
 eler, showing the great difference in atmosphere between the two 
 sides of the Santa Ynez, Spoiled by the soft delicious airs of Santa 
 Barbara, the valley into which we descend seems chilly and unwel- 
 come. Yet, compared with other places, nature deals kindly enough 
 with the dwellers in Lompoc and the coast regions above Point Con- 
 eepcion. 
 
 CASITAS PASS. 
 
 Eastward from Santa Barbara, there are a thousand spots to tempt 
 the tourist — passing through the valleys of Montecito and Carpinte- 
 ria, with their unique and charming canons leading into the inmost 
 recesses of the mountains, we reach the Oasitas Pass, and beyond it 
 the splendid scenery of Ventura county and the gem of Ventura, its 
 far-famed Ojai Valley. 
 
 THE OJAI. 
 
 It is said that every pretty cottage in this valley is tenanted by 
 some one who has fled hither to escape the horrors of the asthma, and 
 has found relief. There are two excellent hotels in the valley, where 
 invalids are well taken care of by Mr. F. P. Barrows and McKee c\r 
 Gally. It is scarcely within our province to speak of this valley, of 
 its magnificent scenery or the fishing and hunting there enjoyed. But 
 the majority of tourists sooner or later make it a visit. It is also 
 noted as the spot which immortalized itself by naming the little ham- 
 let in its midst "Nordhoff," in honor of the celebrated journalist. 
 
FLOWERS, FERNS, SEA-MOSSES, ETC. 
 
 Written Especially for this Work By 
 Resident Scientists. 
 
 THE FLORA OF SANTA BARBAE A. 
 [By Mrs. R. F. Bingham.] 
 In passing down the beach, you will be delighted to see the 
 beautiful trailing abronia unibellata, intermingled with the delicate 
 yellow Oenothera, often with a background of the shrubby lupine. 
 Follow the road around the cliff, and you will always see the Califor- 
 nia rose in bloom, together with the white convolvulus, and many 
 other flowers, varying with the time of year. Some of these are not 
 found elsewhere, others growing at the base of the hill in the sand, 
 are also found at a thousand feet elevation, and at intermediate points. 
 On the top of the hill, covering large spaces, are the purple brodseas 
 and the orange California poppy, side by side. Further down, be- 
 neath the oaks, are mossy spots in which grow the maiden hair ferns, 
 while in more rocky localities the pelkea and polypodium are found. 
 In spring, if you look very closely, you will find a small plant with 
 delicate creamy blossoms, a representative of the poppy family, which 
 will w r ell repay your search. Later in the season as you approach the 
 main road, you will find the hillside purple with the beautiful Collin- 
 sia bicolor, and again the more familiar buttercup will greet you. 
 
 Almost anywhere along the stream banks you will find the bright 
 blue lupine, the white cardamine, the finely divided leaved thalictrum> 
 and under the trees, the delicate blue nemophila will peep through 
 the grass, reminding you of the wood violet, which grows here only 
 upon the mountains. Many ferns can be found in these localities, as 
 also many bright, showy flowers. 
 
 Often times in open spaces, are large masses, white with the bloom 
 of the eretrichium, which in shape and size resembles the blue forget- 
 me-not. The blue-eyed grass smiles at you everywhere. Purple 
 
6± 
 
 SANTA B ABB ABA COUNTY. 
 
 peas, yellow liosackias of many sizes, purple and white godetias, pha- 
 eelias of various hues meet your eyes at almost every turn. 
 
 Perhaps in threading your way among the bushes, you suddenly 
 notice a perfume that reminds you of something you remember of 
 your childhood, but you can scarcely make out what it is; looking 
 carefully about, you find you are treading upon the fragrant 
 yerba-buena trailing along the ground, hiding its delicate blossoms 
 under its small leaves, reminding you of the trailing arbutus, but in 
 no way resembling it. As you ascend, you find the rose-colored and 
 scarlet gooseberries, which, but for the armament of triple thorns*, 
 would be well worth a place upon the lawn. 
 
 Then there are many species of California lilac, the mountain 
 mahogany, the California laurel and holly. These shrubs are often 
 .evergreen, with vines that produce a. profusion of white sprays, fol- 
 lowed by their curious prickly fruits, and occasionally a clematis 
 will hang out its snowy blooms, or plumy seeds. On the cliffs along 
 the mountain streams, grow the delicate and rare ferns, mingled with 
 brilliant flowers, and on the level side, the towering fronds of the 
 Woodwardia. 
 
 In summer the mountain slopes are- covered with the snowy 
 spikes of the yucca, rising many feet above the bayonet-like leaves, 
 and you are often surprised by masses of the bright golden helianthe- 
 mum. In autumn will be found representatives of the sage family, in 
 white, blue and purple, while underneath them are the scarlet-painted 
 cup, and the low-growing crimson chorizanthe. 
 
 The varieties of calachortus and other bulbous plants are exceed- 
 ingly beautiful. Scarlet mimulus in dry stream beds attracts attention, 
 while the salmon-colored one can be found m rocKy places all the 
 year. Yellow flowers in the greatest profusion everywhere, and 
 always, until one almost tires in thinking of the great variety. 
 
 As you ascend the mountain heights, new faces greet you, inter- 
 mingled with those you have met lower down. 
 
 There is one modest flower you must not fail to find; look under 
 the shrubbery in low places, and you will be repaid for your 
 search by the small, sweet-scented, blue scatellaria, which you will 
 never tire of collecting. 
 
 One might fill page after page and scarcely begin to tell the 
 beauties of our flora; words are powerless for desertion; it must be 
 seen and loved to be appreciated. 
 
 SEA MOSSES. 
 [By the late Dr. L. 1ST. Dimmick.] 
 The sojourners by the seaside at Santa Barbara, who are fond of 
 the beautiful and strange in nature, will find a rich treat in the ex- 
 quisitely beautiful sea mosses that are cast upon the shore by the 
 
SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 65 
 
 in-coming waves of the blue Pacific. At their feet they will see these 
 "flowers of the sea," brilliant in their rich and various shades of 
 crimson, gresn, purple, olive and brown. Some of these when grow- 
 ing under water reflect prismatic colors, and as they sway to and fro 
 with the motion of the waves, they glisten with the richest metal ic 
 greens and blue with pink and scarlet, each leaf a rainbow in itself. 
 These sea mosses are eagerly sought for, collected in large quantities, 
 and distributed throughout the United States. They are gathered at 
 all seasons ol the year, as there are no icy shores to prevent. The 
 spring and summer are the best times in the year to collect, as a 
 greater number of varieties can then be found, and they are of more 
 luxuriant growth. 
 
 They are floated out on cards or paper, pressed until dry and 
 then arranged in books or albums. When they are wanted for ma- 
 king sea moss pictures and landscapes, or for constructing wreaths, or 
 filling baskets, they are first dried on bright tin plates or oiled paper, 
 from which, when dry, they can be readily removed in a fit condition 
 for this highly ornamental work. 
 
 The Atlantic coast possesses many lovely varieties, but the Pacific 
 far exceeds it in the number of its species and varieties. The red- 
 colored sea mosses are the most abundant in deep water, and are 
 most likely to be found after a rough sea has loosened them from 
 their attachments. There is a marked difference in form as well as in 
 colors between specimens of the same species when growing at differ- 
 ent depths. The sea mosses, or Algre, are the food of a large number 
 of marine animals. Man too, has found some of them very desira- 
 ble as articles of diet. The Irish moss of the Atlantic finds here its 
 superior in the Gigartina family, which is free from bitterness and 
 makes a superior jelly. It is possible that the salubrity of sea air is 
 due in part to the Iodine set free from the kelp or dark green sea 
 weeds that dry up on the shore. 
 
 MOLLUSC A. 
 [By Dr. Lorenzo G. Yates. ] 
 
 California includes within its limits a greater variety of natural 
 regions and peculiar zoological districts than any other State or Ter- 
 ritory of the Union. Its seaboard of over 600 miles in length, furnishes 
 a great range of climate, and a consequent varied fauna and flora. 
 Santa Barbara, from its peculiarly sheltered position, caused in a 
 measure by the conformation of the coast, marks the boundary line 
 of the northern and southern limits of many of the marine species of 
 mollusca. 
 
 The Pacific Ocean along our shore keeps up an uniformity of 
 temperature suitable to the requirements of many subtropical forms. 
 
66 
 
 SAXTA BARBARA COUNTY. 
 
 Many of our genera are peculiar, the sub-genera of land shells, in 
 particular, and differ from those of the central and eastern portions 
 of the continent, while many of the eastern genera are unknown with 
 us. At the same time the localities where these peculiar genera or 
 species are found are sometimes very limited; for example, Binneia 
 notabilis, found ODly on the Santa Barbara Island, and these confined 
 to the south-east side; still another species, Patida Durantii, found in 
 the same locality as the above, and nowhere else except in Alameda 
 county, (300 miles north) where it has been found in limited num- 
 bers by the writer and others. 
 
 Helix Ayresiana, a very pretty snail shell, found on the Channel 
 Islands only, and which will in all probability soon be exterminated, 
 pasturing of sheep on the islands destroying the herbage on which 
 they feed and under which they are protected. 
 
 Within the city limits shells are rarely found of any beauty or 
 scientific value, but above and below it are points where the localities 
 are favorable for the collection of rare and fine species. 
 
 Although Santa Barbara has perhaps fewer species than some 
 other points on the coast, still the coast of the county contains a 
 large number of the species found north and south, and some not 
 found elsewhere. It is the northern limit of Luponia spadicea, (a 
 very pretty cowry or money shell) also Siphonalia kelletii, a rare and 
 fine species. Live shells of the above named species are oc- 
 casionally obtained by dredging in the channel; they live upon the 
 kelp and in deep water. Broken and dead shells are not uncommon 
 on the shore, and doubtless many species not now known in this lo- 
 cality may be found by dredging in the channel. 
 
 The islands afford not only a sheltered coast, but also an extra- 
 ordinary length of coast line, the rocky portion of which furnished 
 the native Indians an abundant supply of food molluscs, while the 
 shells furnished them with ornaments, articles of utility and material 
 for exchange or barter with the interior tribes, while at the present 
 time the Abalone or Haliotis furnishes valuable articles of commerce; 
 the Chinese dry and ship to China immense quantities of the animal; 
 the shells are polished and sold as curios, and large quantities of the 
 rough shells are exj>orted for the manufacture of jewelry, buttons and 
 various other articles. The delicate and beautiful Paper Nautilus 
 (Argonauta Argo) is sometimes found on the islands after a storm; it 
 is highly prized by collectors, and lovers of the rare and beautiful in 
 nature. 
 
 Another curious and pretty shell, Lucapina crenulata, was used 
 by the Indians as ornaments. The Bubble Shell, (Haminea vesicula) 
 very delicate, and transparent, is sometimes found in the Estero. 
 
SANTA B ABB ABA COUNTY. 67 
 
 Extensive and interesting collections of shells have been made 
 here from time to time by scientific explorers. 
 
 In 1866 Mr. Hepburn collected 70 species in Santa Barbara and 
 vicinity. In 1867, Dr. Newcomb,, an eminent conchologist, now of Cor- 
 nell University, collected 135 species on the coast of the main land, and 
 23 species on Santa Cruz island, some of them quite rare. The writer 
 collected 160 species on Santa Rosa island, a complete list of which was 
 published Nov., 1876, in the Quarterly Journal of Conchology, at 
 Leeds, England. This collection was made incidentally while en- 
 gaged in searching for antiquities in the interest of the Smithsonian 
 Institution. Doubtless the list could be considerably extended. 
 
 The seaward side of the islands being exposed to the full force of 
 the wind and tide, and the land side moderately calm and sheltered, 
 furnish widely different conditions for the various species of deep- 
 water and littoral molluscs and offer extensive opportunities for fur- 
 ther research and discoveries. 
 
 FEBNS. 
 
 [By Lorenzo G. Yates.J 
 
 The remarks on the peculiarities of the climate of this county as 
 regard the molluscan fauna, will apply also to the flora of this region 
 so far as the Felices or Ferns are concerned. While some of our 
 species are found in the northern part of the State, and are not found 
 south of us, others begin here and extend south. Santa Barbara be- 
 ing the southern limit of species found in northern California and 
 Oregon, and the northern boundary of others found south, into Ari- 
 zona and Mexico; others again are peculiar to this and the counties 
 immediately adjacent, and one species at least, is peculiar to Santa 
 Barbara county on the Pacific Coast, and found elsewhere only in 
 Florida and Texas. We find the following species in this county: 
 The Adiantums or "Maiden-hair Ferns," are remarkably well repre- 
 sented, all the species known in the United States, with perhaps one 
 exception, being found here. 
 
 Adiantum pedatum, in the northern portion of the county. A. 
 capillus veneris, A. emarginatum, in the wooded canons in the 
 neighborhood of living water; hanging in immense masses from the 
 boulders under the spray of falling water. 
 
 Aspidium patens, a remarkably fine and pretty fern; the only lo- 
 calities where it is found in the United States being Bartlett Canon in 
 this county, and in Florida and Western Texas. 
 
 Aspidium rigidum, variety argutum, found throughout the coun- 
 try in abundance. 
 
 Cheilanthes Californica. commonly called lace fern, a very deli- 
 
68 SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 
 
 cate and pretty species found only in the Coast Range of California, 
 and much sought after by collectors. 
 
 Cheilanthes Coopers, first discovered in Santa Barbara county 
 and named .for Mrs. Ell wood Cooper, a lady who takes great interest 
 in the collection of ferns. 
 
 Gymnogramme triangularis, the golden back or gold fern and 
 under certain conditions of growth taking the form of the so-called 
 silver fern, common everywhere. 
 
 Pellsea andromedasfolia. P. ornithopus and brachyptera; all the 
 pellseas improve under cultivation. 
 
 Peteris aquilina, var. lanuginosus, brake fern, common. 
 
 Woodwardia radicans, variety Americana, is found growing in 
 and near mountain streams. Magnificent specimens of this fern are 
 used to decorate our halls and public buildings on special occasions, 
 notably our Floral Carnival. 
 
 INDIAN REMAINS.. 
 [By Dr. L. N". Dimmick.] 
 
 Of the inhabitants of this county, previous to its discovery by 
 Cabrillo in 1542, nothing is known except as developed by a minute 
 examination of their rancherias and cemeteries. From these have 
 been obtained many tons of their household utensils, tools, weapons, 
 ornaments, and various other articles that throw light upon their 
 domestic economy, occupations, character and history. When this 
 coast was discovered by Cabrillo, no other portion was found so 
 densely populated as this vicinity. The early records of the Mission 
 give the names of over one hundred and fifty clans or rancherias that 
 were located within the limits of the territory afterward formed into 
 the county of Santa Barbara. The supply of food appears to have 
 been so abundant that there was no struggle for existence, and the 
 climate so even and delightful, that they showed their appreciation of 
 these conditions by crowding it with a dense population, who for a 
 long period enjoyed here a peaceful and indolent life. Excavations 
 into the cemeteries show that many of the localities had been occu- 
 pied continuously for probably ten centuries at least. 
 
 With the skeletons, that from the measure of decay, appeared to 
 have been buried from one hundred to three hundred years, were 
 found a few modern beads and other articles of European manufac- 
 ture, mingled with stone, wood, bone and shell implements. Still 
 deeper, beneath these graves, were found remains more decayed, with 
 only the stone, bone and shell utensils. Layers were found of deeper 
 and deeper interments, in which the human remains crumbled into 
 dust upon being exposed to the air. These skeletons exhibited an 
 antiquity equally great with the remains of the mound builders of the 
 
SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 69 
 
 Mississippi valley. The skulls resembled those of the more intelli- 
 gent of the native races. The bones indicated a muscular race, of 
 medium stature, somewhat taller than the inland tribes. The sites of 
 their villages are covered with the remains of molluskg*, fish and 
 seals, showing that from these animals they obtained the larger por- 
 tion of their food. The rarity of warlike implements indicates that 
 they were a peaceful race; their care for the dead proves that they 
 were not destitute of natural affection ; and the fact that they buried 
 with their departed friends all the implements and other articles of 
 value belonging to them, testifies that they believed in a future state 
 of existence, where these articles might be required. The bodies were 
 usually buried with the face downward, and the knees drawn up 
 under the body. 
 
 With many of the skeletons of females were found balls of red 
 ochre. Sometimes this was carefully preserved in abalone shells, or in 
 small stone cups. Bracelets and necklaces of bone and shells, to- 
 gether with strings of shell beads and shell ear-rings had been buried 
 with them. The most common domestic utensil was the stone mortar 
 and pestle, which were of all sizes, from those holding three or four 
 gallons down to those holding less than a pint. In these they doubt- 
 less pounded their acorns and other seeds, which they seasoned with 
 grasshoppers when they were plenty enough. They had tortilla 
 stones cut out of soapstone or steatite that were fire-proof, on which 
 they baked their acorn cakes. They also carved from this same kind 
 of stone neat cooking utensils. These were globular, with rather 
 narrow apertures, often encircled by raised rims, and would hold from 
 half a gallon up to four gallons. Cups, bowls and ladles were carved 
 from serpentine and highly polished. Rude knives and awls were 
 made of flint and bone. Abalone shells were used for drinking pur- 
 poses and for plates. Needles were made of bone. 
 
 Highly polished serpentine pipes, with hollow bone mouth- 
 pieces, cemented in place with asphaltum, indicate that they liked to 
 enjoy their ease when smoking, as the straight, elongated pipe was 
 only adapted to be used with comfort when the smoker was in a re- 
 cumbent position. They made fish-hooks of both bone and shell. 
 Arrow and spear heads were of flint, as were also the scrapers with 
 which they dressed and prepared the sealskins for their clothing. 
 
 Bemains of nets and the abundance of sinkers found on the 
 islands where the best fishing grounds exist, show that they were ex- 
 perts in this mode of catching fish. These sinkers were generally 
 discoidal stones, with the opening in the centre beveled. It is prob- 
 able that they had secondary uses for these stone rings, and that they 
 were used in playing games. One form of these discoidal stones is' 
 club-head in shape, and is supposed to have been used on sticks of 
 wood for convenience, in digging the ground for roots. Whistles 
 
70 
 
 SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 
 
 and flutes of hollow bones of birds show that they were not entirely 
 destitute of musical taste. Their shell money was generally com- 
 posed of small, round pieces of flat shell, perforated in the centre, or 
 else small shells like the oiivellas, truncated at the apex so as to be 
 strung together. Beautiful models of boats were carved in serpen- 
 tine. As the northern tribes around the Sacramento river and the 
 bay of San Francisco knew nothing about boats, having only balsas, 
 (which were small rafts of tules or rushes) the possession of these 
 fine models that they evidently prized highly, and the admirable boats 
 they possessed in abundance when Cabrillo first visited them, and 
 which he describes as constructed of bent planks, cemented with 
 bitumen, the largest of them capable of safely transporting twenty 
 persons at a trip across the channel intervening between the main 
 land and the outlying islands, proves them to have been a much more 
 intelligent race than any of the more northern tribes. 
 
 But as soon as the eye of the white man rested upon them they 
 commenced to melt away. A little more than three hundred years 
 later, and the native race was almost extinct. This fair domain, once 
 their exclusive possession, is now in the occupancy of another people 
 who wander over the deserted homes that are all the record this van- 
 ished race left of their history; "of their inner life, their aspirations, 
 hopes and fears in the unrecorded past." 
 
 [This article is a reprint, given in place of the one promised by 
 the late Dr. Dimmick, who took great interest in this undertaidng; 
 to whom in fact, the plan of the work is largely due. He had 
 prepared the papers on "Sea-Mosses," the "Indian dancing ground 
 at Goleta," the "Adaptability of the soil to lemons," and some para- 
 graphs on minor subjects, when he was taken seriously ill; and when 
 his death occurred, the first half of the work was already in press. In 
 his death the city has sustained a severe loss. He was not more 
 noted for his scientific attainments than for his generous heart and 
 liberal public spirit. Even when confined to a sick room his influ- 
 ence was widely felt in all matters pertaining to the welfare of the 
 city; his advice was prized and his judgment relied upon; strangers 
 were referred to him as to the best authority — and not to know Dr. 
 Dimmick was not to know Santa Barbara.] 
 
 GEOLOGY AND PALEONTOLOGY. 
 [By Lorenzo G. Yates. J 
 At various and widely separated points over the area of the State. 
 California has several noted fossil localities; one of the most widely 
 known being the strip of land occupied by the low-lying hills of Post- 
 Pliocene age, lying between Santa Barbara and the ocean. These 
 hills arise at the highest point to about 433 feet, and are composed of 
 
SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 71 
 
 strata of nearly horizontal rocks which rest upon the upturned ledges 
 of the underlying bituminous shale. These rocks consist of coarse 
 gravel and sand, in some places very hard, at others soft and friable. 
 These strata which have been referred to the Pliocene and Pleisto 
 cene or Post-Pliocene periods by different authors, are again overlaid 
 unconformably by alluvial deposits. At this place the first collection 
 of fossil mollusca of which we have a record, was made in 1849, by 
 the late Col. E. Jewett, who was well known to the people of Santa 
 Barbara, where his daughter and her family still reside. A descrip- 
 tion of these fossils was published in 1863 in "Beports of the British As- 
 sociation;" many of the species being new to science, and several 
 were named after Col. Jewett. Forty-six species were enumerated, 
 about one-half of which are still found living in the waters adjacent; 
 one of the most noted fossils Crepidula grandis, the "boat" or "slip- 
 per shell," is at present a boreal species, found living on the shores 
 of Kamtschatka; another species, Janira bella, illustrated in Yol. 2, of 
 Paleontology of California, is well known to collectors, and prized by 
 tourists and others, from its peculiar shape and excellent state of 
 preservation. 
 
 Extensive collections were also made by the geologists of the 
 Pacific E. B. survey, and are described in Vol. 5, of the "Beports." 
 
 Several years since, Bev. S. Bowers and wife collected over one 
 hundred species of fossils in this locality. In the same range of hills, 
 west of the town, large numbers of Turritelhi Cooperi may be found in 
 a good state of preservation. Some eight years ago this fossil was 
 found by the writer in large numbers at a point on the bluffs near 
 More's Landing, weathered out on the surface. 
 
 The late Prof. W. M. Gabb, Paleontologist of the California 
 Geological Survey, refers the Santa Barbara fossils to the Post- 
 Pliocene epoch. 
 
 In the range of hills lying east and north of the city, extensive 
 deposits of diatomaceons earth or rock may be seen, and in this lo- 
 cality Dr. Finch has discovered the fossil bones of an animal which 
 from a cursory examination, appear to be those of an extinct animal 
 allied to the Dugong or Manatee (sea-cow, a herbiverous, swimming 
 mammal, having the aquatic habits of the whale, and being one of the 
 species on which the fable of the mermaid was founded) remains of 
 which the writer discovered in Alameda county in this State, several 
 years ago, the teeth of which have puzzled the most eminent of Paleon- 
 tologists and comparative anatomists. 
 
 Teeth and bones of the Mastodon were found in this county sev- 
 eral years ago by the State Geological Survey. 
 
 In 1876, the writer found a fragment of tusk of fossil elephant on 
 Santa Bosa Island, in this county, (a relic of the times when the 
 
72 SANTA BAEBAKA COUNTY. 
 
 channel islands formed a portion of the main land). 
 
 In Mission canon and at other points along the line of the Santa 
 Ynez range, are localities of Miocene fossils, principally oysters and 
 pectens, (scallop shells). Good specimens of these fossils may be 
 fonnd in the Gaviota Pass. 
 
 Near the last named locality, fine specimens of fossil teeth of 
 sharks have been found on the surface of the ground, having been 
 weathered out of the miocene rocks. At Indian Orchard a tooth of 
 another and interesting species of shark was found, specimens of 
 which are in the writer's collection. 
 
AGRICULTURE. 
 
 Cereals, Citrus and Deciduous Fruits, Lima Beans, 
 Olive Oil, Honey, Etc. 
 
 SOILS AND THEIR ADAPTATION TO THE GROWTH OF GRASSES, 
 GRAINS AND FKt'ITS. 
 [By George W. Coffin. 1 
 Perhaps no country has a greater diversity of soils within the 
 same number of square miles, than can be found in Santa Barbara 
 county. Commencing on the mountains we find a grayish sand with 
 some lime from sea shells, vegetable matter and some loam or light 
 yellowish clay. On this, growing naturally, are live oak trees, many 
 shrubs, or small growth of oak, ceanothus, wild apple, redwood, wild 
 currant and gooseberry and several other varieties. There are plants 
 too, such as the wild sunflower, morning glory, phacelias, thistles, 
 ferns, etc.; and grasses, the cariso, or large bunch grass, several vari- 
 eties of wood grass, aristada purpurea, or purple grass; and in de- 
 pressions, the alnlleria and burr clover — the two most valuable forage 
 plants known on the coast. Alnlleria is a Spanish word, and is gen- 
 erally pronounced "fillaree," accenting the last syllable. It is a 
 diminutive geranium of a delicious sweet flavor, eagerly eaten by all 
 kinds of stock, and is not surpassed by the white clover of 
 the East, in producing good-flavored milk, butter, beef and mut- 
 ton. The burr clover bears sufficient resemblance to the red clover 
 of the East to be readily recognized; its seed is borne in the axils or 
 angles of its stems in a well-coiled burr. At maturity it falls, and the 
 burr is sought all through the dry season by stock, and from the 
 large amount of oil in the seed it possesses valuable fattening qualities. 
 
 In the slight depressions near the summits of the mountains, 
 apples, pears, peaches, plums and grapes grow, producing good 
 fruit. So little, however, has yet been done in the way of planting 
 on these elevated lands that their capabilities are scarcely under- 
 stood. At the present writing, at Pat's Station and at Marshall's, an 
 
74 
 
 SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 
 
 altitude of about 3,000 feet, small orchards of these trees may be seen 
 in a flourishing condition. There are other localities, some still 
 higher, where the same fruits, as well as barley and wheat, may be 
 successfully grown. 
 
 Following the mountain range westward, it terminates in grassy 
 hills as it approaches the ocean above Point Concepcion. These 
 hills are formed of a light-colored earth or clay, or of a dark, almost 
 black mould, and adobe, and another soil more particularly des- 
 cribed hereafter; giving out numerous springs and streams, yielding 
 largely of alfilleria and burr clover, affording the finest stock ranges 
 on the coast. The superior quality and abundant growth of these 
 forage plants on the San Julian, Santa Eosa, Lompoc and other 
 ranchos, give the region a reputation for choice beef, mutton, butter 
 and cheese, second to none in the State. There is a firmness to this 
 black soil that prevents waste by rains; yet in certain conditions of 
 dryness it is light and easily worked. It absorbs water readily and 
 retains it a long time. Similar soils cover the hills, slopes and val- 
 leys near Santa Barbara in many instances; and being protected by 
 the mountain range (here from 3,000 to 4,000 feet high) from the 
 north winds, and absorbing largely of the sun's rays, a difference of 
 temperature occurs, favoring the production of many varieties of 
 fruit which cannot be successfully grown in less favored places. 
 
 Before descending to the soils of the lower slopes and flat lands 
 as they approach the coast, there is a soil so peculiar and so valuable 
 that it should have a more careful examination and more particular 
 description. It is called "diatomaceous soil," and in its greatest 
 purity is limited in extent. Yet though the limits are narrow in 
 which it thus occurs, it mingles with much of the hill and slope soil, 
 affecting it favorably in all instances. Diatoms, of which it is com- 
 posed, were formerly supposed to be the shells of a minute sea-fish, 
 similar to the rhizopods that form the chalk hills of England. But re- 
 cent careful investigation by scientists proves them to be of vegetable 
 origin. They are the seed pods of a marine plant, that were produced 
 in such quantities that they now form these narrow belts of greyish 
 white earth; sometimes found in highest hills, or on slopes, and in 
 places in valleys where the strata cross, to appear again in the hills 
 on the further side; as it runs in an east-and-west direction parallel 
 with the coast. It is found on both slopes of the Coast Bange, from 
 the Ojai to Point Concepcion and Point Arguello; also in the range on 
 the opposite side of the Santa Ynez it can be recognized in the grey 
 sides of peaks that face the valley. Sometimes branches of these 
 strata may be seen on neighboring hills; they may be always known 
 by the light grey color of their exposed surfaces. They are a silicate 
 of lime; when dry they may be broken down by the thumb and finger 
 into a powder; when wet, they form a smooth, adhesive paste. In 
 
SANTA BAKBAKA COUNTY. 75 
 
 the localities of their greatest purity, they exist in all conditions of 
 hardness, from that just named up to the genuine old-fashioned gun- 
 flint, used on fire-arms in early times. 
 
 This earth, considered as a soil, has, in a soft state, a great power 
 of retaining moisture. "It holds water like a sponge," has often 
 been said of it. Giving it off gradually, the streams are supplied 
 through the long dry seasons; and as it mingles more or less with all 
 other soils, except the real blue adobe, they are kept moist and pro- 
 ductive without irrigation. This earth, mingling with a free black 
 mould, forms the natural home of the alfilleria; with heavier black 
 soil, burr clover does equally well. 
 
 Wheat attains to great perfection in both of the above soils, as in- 
 stanced by Dr. Finch, on the foothills near the city, where 60 bushels 
 to the acre were produced without irrigation. Also, by J. W. Cooper, 
 of the Santa Rosa rancho, in the Santa Ynez valley; on 20 acres of 
 new land 1200 bushels were harvested —this also without irrigation; 
 yet much was lost by reason of imperfect machinery in the reaping 
 and threshing. 
 
 [Mr. Thos. H. Hicks has just brought in from his 600-acre field 
 in the same valley a bunch of wheat heads, most of them eight 
 inches in length, and barley heads, six inches long, and all full of the 
 finest and plumpest grain.] 
 
 In the summer of 1882, Dr. J. B. Shaw raised on his ranch in 
 Los Alamos valley, 103 bushels of barley to the acre on 100 acres 
 together. These are given as evidence of the productive capacity of 
 this soil under favorable circumstances. 
 
 Among fruits, none finds a more congenial home on this soil than 
 the olive. Ellwood Cooper of "Ellwood" is now reaping rich har- 
 vests in proof of this. The most of his trees are on the kind of soil 
 known as the black tenacious vegetable mould and diatomaceous earth. 
 This may be known by occasional cream-colored or ashy, angular, 
 small-sized rocks, lying about loose on the surface. A bunch of wild 
 oats has been hanging in the writer's office for a week that measured 
 nine feet high, grown on soil of this kind. It is also the choicest of 
 wheat land. Apricots, plums, apples, peaches and grapes thrive 
 vigorously and produce abundantly on it. 
 
 The soil selected by J. Alston Hayne, Jr., for his olive orchard, 
 near the Santa Ynez Mission, is the wash from gravelly and diatoma- 
 ceous hills, and has also a black vegetable mould, which in combina- 
 tion forms a rich and grateful food for the olive. 
 
 It will be seen by the great extent of country influenced by the 
 presence of diatoms, more or less, and the large and valuable pro- 
 ducts of grass, grain and fruits, that it should be, as it is, held in 
 high esteem by all. 
 
76 
 
 SANTA BARBAE A COUNTY. 
 
 The writer speaks of its extent, as he has personal knowledge of it 
 and no farther. It may exist in other places than those named. It is 
 to be hoped it does, for the benefit of possessors and "the rest of man- 
 kind." 
 
 Par up on the foothills, back of Santa Barbara and of the Mon- 
 tecito valley, and extending well down into the valley, is a light 
 colored soil of loam, mould and sand, not tenacious and hard, but 
 what is usually called a "kind" soil. This is the home of the orange — 
 in so far as yet tried — the true "orange belt." From here, (and oc- 
 casionally from the orchard of Col. Hollister, which is in a valley 
 between the foothills,) come some of the best oranges ever brought 
 to this market. Until experiments go further and show differently, 
 this must stand as a proven fact. 
 
 Valley laud is generally too rich, causing a rapid and coarse 
 growth of wood, leaf and fruit. When the underlying soil is gravelly 
 so that the water may leach away and not stand about the roots of 
 trees, irrigation may be practiced to beautify and swell the fruit, but 
 it is always at the expense of ilavor. 
 
 In the belt above named, there is an admirable adjustment of 
 quality of soil, drainage, temperature and altitude to insure the great- 
 est perfection in the tree and fruit. Irrigation is only adopted where 
 loamy portions incline to too much sand, and then only in times of 
 greatest drought. One singular fact in the production of the orange 
 here, is that, in repeated trials between seedlings and the best budded 
 varieties, by fair and competent judges, the former have been invari- 
 ably declared the better. 
 
 Lemons also grow well in this, though doing better in a heavier 
 soil. They sometimes yield enormously. In one instance, where the 
 trees were scattered over an acre and a quarter, that would have occu- 
 pied an acre had they been properly placed, in the orchard of Col. 
 Hollister, there were picked in one season 60,000 lemons. Averaging 
 one cent apiece, as they did when sold, gave §600 as the product of 
 one acre in a single season. 
 
 Limes also do well on soils a little stronger than that required by 
 the orange. But noDe of the citrus fruits should be planted on soils 
 that are not or cannot be well drained. "Water souring about their 
 roots will soon be detected by what is termed gum disease, which is 
 an exudation of gum, first on the trunk of the tree near the ground, 
 and afterwards on the branches and even on the leaves. 
 
 On the hills and hill sides, where the earth noted above predomi- 
 nates, our best grape lands are found; even though scattered over 
 with boulders, the soil being good between, they grow and produce 
 heavily. Many prefer this boulder land, as the rocks absorb the rays 
 of the sun, giving them off again at night, thus keeping a temperature 
 above that of the valleys or unobstructed plains. The difference be- 
 
SA^TA BAHBATtA COUNTY. 
 
 77 
 
 Ween the fruit from these slopes and that of the valley, is, in amount 
 of saccharine matter, largely in favor of the hills or slopes. Market 
 grapes are grown more than for wine, although about 40,000 gallons 
 of wine have been made during the last year. No better soil can be 
 found for raisin grapes. Some are made into raisins of superior 
 quality, although the industry is not by any means established. 
 
 At the mouths of some of the larger canons where the streams 
 come out to a plain, almost level, they have in the course of centu- 
 ries, brought down a large amount of worn down rocks, clay sand, and 
 decayed vegetable matter. Distributing this admixture over the 
 plains for several miles, it has formed the beautiful country of the 
 Carpinteria and that called La Patera. In these favored localities the 
 Lima bean production has become profitable. These soils seem 
 especially adapted to their growth. Twenty-live hundred pounds 
 liave been raised on a single acre and large fields have averaged a ton 
 to the acre. Even smaller beans which thrive in less valuable soil, 
 yield better in this. The value of Lima beans has frequently reached 
 $100 per acre in a single season. [This is an excessively modest es- 
 timate.] 
 
 The peculiar adaptation of this soil for the growth of Lima beans 
 was first recognized by Mr. Henry Fish, who made a contract with 
 an eastern firm to furnish all the beans he could raise for a term of 
 years, at 4 cents per pound. The result is, that Mr. Fish is in very 
 comfortable circumstances. 
 
 This soil is also the home of valuable orchards of apples, apricots, 
 almonds, peaches, nectarines and plums. It seems to be especially 
 adapted to the prune, as demonstrated by Mr. Eugene J. Knapp, 
 whose cured fruit is unequalled in this market, and which, by his 
 management, is largely remunerative. He grows the large and small 
 French prunes. 
 
 In some parts of these spreading plains are slight depressions 
 where more moisture is retained and where the soil is deeper and of a 
 darker color. Selecting one of these depressions, some twenty-four 
 years ago, Mr. Bussel Heath cleared away the willows and began to 
 plant the English walnut. His trees grew so well that he continued 
 planting each year, until he has now some 8,000 trees, most of 
 which are bearing. His sales in a single season have reached 35 tons, 
 amounting to the snug sum of §7,000. 
 
 Ellwood Cooper has about 7,000 trees, and Col. Hollister about 
 10,000; most of the latter having been planted recently. It may be 
 said of this nut that it delights in our best soils, the rich flats and 
 banks of streams being the most favorable to it. 
 
 Eight years after Col. Heath's experiment in Carpinteria, Mr. Jos. 
 Sexton began to plant the walnut in Goleta, and Dr. Brinkerhoff in 
 Santa Barbara. All these orchards have grown well and bid fair to 
 
78 SAJsTA BARBARA COUNTST, 
 
 continue. About 85 tons of the nuts were shipped from this port last 
 fall. 
 
 One fruit, well worth mentioning, is produced in localities like 
 the above; it is the strawberry. No better soil can be found for it, 
 Mr. Hemingway, of the Cathedral Oaks, has produced in one year, 
 from an acre of ground, ten tons of delicious fruit; and has also, on 
 the same acre, orchard trees growing, now some four years old, set 
 at regular distances in true orchard form. He irrigates freely in dry 
 weather and has "fresh strawberries all the year round" literally. 
 
 The Shepard brothers, in Carpinteria, are doing what Mr. Hem- 
 ingway does in G-oleta, and from these two sources Santa Barbara 
 draws her main supply of strawberries. The variety most in favor is t he 
 "Monarch of the West." 
 
 From this free mellow soil, we turn to the genuine old grey adobe. 
 It is more staunch than the hills, yet capricious in the working. If 
 not handled at precisely the right time, it locks itself up for the sea- 
 son, and woe to the man who attempts to break through its closed 
 doors. It dries and shrinks and breaks, leaving great yawning 
 chasms between, into which the seeds of grains and grasses fall, to 
 sprout and grow when autumn rains descend and cause an expansion 
 of the rock-like clods till all is smooth again. When wet, it is too ad- 
 hesive and cannot be handled; but taken at exactly the right time it 
 X3roves a kind and pleasant soil, breaking into fine particles and re- 
 maining moist and mellow through the dry season. A finely broken 
 soil, three inches in depth, covering the ground all over, prevents 
 hardening and cracking, and in this condition, no soil is more pro- 
 ductive. In this, corn, barley and hay give large returns; apples, 
 plums and pears do well, and in some instances, the English walnut . 
 Apricots are productive in it. 
 
 The lighter sands, near the ocean, are utilized by planting with 
 sweet potatoes, which do wonderfully well in them; also with peanuts, 
 which yield abundantly and are but little trouble to cultivate. 
 
 LEMONS. 
 [By Dr. L. N. Dimmick.] 
 That portion of Santa Barbara south of the Santa Tnez Bange of 
 mountains, lies in the choicest lemon belt of Southern .California. 
 This district extends from Point Concepcipn to the Mexican line and 
 includes all the protected localities within the equalizing influence of 
 the ocean. The lemon and the lime are tenderer than the orange and 
 will flourish only in a mild and equable temperature. The late B. B. 
 Bedding asserted that "it is not safe to plant lemon trees where the 
 thermometer occasionally falls to 25 degrees; lime trees lose their 
 leaves at 30 degrees, and the young wood is killed at 2S degrees." The 
 late cold winters have proven that lemon and lime orchards are not 
 
SA^TA BA"KBA±IA COmTT, 
 
 safe in the interior away from the ocean. Even an the most favorable 
 reasons the lemons grown in the interior are not as good and as at- 
 tractive as those grown near the seacoast. The fruit of the latter is 
 s*ound, of medium size, the rind is thin and smooth, and the pulp is 
 .juicy. In the interior the fruit is larger and elongated, the rind is 
 roughened and thicker, and the pulp less juicy. South of the Santa 
 Ynez mountains the temperature rarely falls "below 30° except in the 
 lowest valleys. This district will eventually be largely devoted to the 
 production of the choicest varieties of the lemon and lime-. 
 
 LIMA ^EANS. 
 [By L. B. Hogue,] 
 
 Some thirteen years ago a farmer in the then sparsely populated 
 and undeveloped Carpinteria Valley, planted a few Lima beans and 
 succeeded in obtaining both a good yield and a paying price. Others 
 followed his example till fifty or a hundred tons were produced, which 
 seemed for a time to exceed the demand for the article. But the de- 
 mand grew apace, and the farmers continued to supply it till the pro- 
 duct has reached ten to fifteen hundred tons annually. The different 
 stages of the business as preparation of soil, care of growing croj> and 
 harvesting has been reduced almost to a science by our fanners, and 
 they are now as prosperous possibly as any other people on the coast* 
 
 The seed is put into the ground about the first of May, in drills, 
 and after some attention in the early part of the season, the crop is 
 left to grow and spread over the ground until fully matured in the 
 fall. The bean fields give the valley a rich and green appearance all 
 summer long, and are a source of pleasure as well as profit. The 
 roads leading to the warehouses and whari are mostly level and hard> 
 so that the produce is hauled to shipping at a trifling expense. The 
 beans all go east via San Francisco. Yet we faithfully hope that a 
 railroad will tap this section ere long, giving us a direct outlet to the 
 east over' the Atlantic & Pacific. The yield per acre of the Lima bean 
 has usually been about a ton, but has fallen below that the past two 
 seasons on account of a scant rainfall. Prices fluctuate in a manner 
 quite interesting to those most concerned, and, although the price for 
 the last two crops has not been so high as in some former instances, 
 it is gratifying to note that it has kept well above the lowest record. 
 The apparent tendency of the market is to seek a medium and become 
 more steady as the business grows in extent. I suppose that three 
 cents per pound would not be far from the average for the last two 
 crops. By the advent of recent labor-saving inventions the cost of 
 harvesting has been materially reduced. 
 
 OLIVE CULTURE. 
 [Prom Ellwood Cooper's "Treatise on Olive Culture. 1 "] 
 The following paragraphs are translated from the French of 
 
so 
 
 SANTA BAEBABA COUNTY. 
 
 Bertile: "The touching story of the flight of the dove from Noah's 
 ark, related in Genesis, proves the existence of the olive tree in the 
 earliest period of the world's history. 
 
 It was a celebrated tree among the ancients. It held the first 
 rank in their mythology; Minerva taught the Athenians how to pre- 
 pare the fruit, and they had a most religious respect for it. The Kom- 
 ans used the wood not only for fuel, but on the altars of their gods. It 
 was the emblem of peace. * * * • The olive tree trans- 
 ported from Egypt to Attica, belongs to the jasmine family, with 
 evergreen foliage, small blossoms in clusters, and having some like- 
 ness to the elder tree flowering in June. It can be propagated in 
 many ways, but the best way is by planting the seeds, and it is one 
 which is practiced least. Except in damp soils where its roots rot 
 the olive grows everywhere. It accustoms itself to both dry and wet 
 climates. Clay and mud are indifferent to it. Its long life is prover- 
 bial. In return, it takes thirty years, a man's lifetime, before it 
 reaches its full capacity for bearing fruit. Of this tree, one of the 
 most valuable gifts of nature, there exist 16 or 17 species, all exotic. 
 Its fruit is oval, fleshy, with a hard woody seed enclosing a kernel. 
 The meat, fine and covered with a green skin before its maturity, 
 softens and becomes a purplish black in ripening; it is then that they 
 grind them in the mill, then put them in a press to extract the oil. 
 
 With some exceptions one may say that in the Mediterranean 
 Basin, from the 35th to the 43d degree of latitude is surrounded with 
 a belt of olive trees. It is from this region that all Europe receives 
 its oil for table use and light. * * * Eich in azote, and 
 with considerable nutritive qualities, olive oil possesses, in the first 
 place, the power of assimilating with the human body. It is instru- 
 mental in assisting in many medicinal cures where the method is 
 cutaneous. It being more liquid than animal fat, always used for 
 that purpose, it is easier to absorb. The injured parts, protected 
 from the air by oily substances or salves, heal more quickly. These 
 unctions give besides, more suppleness and elasticity to the muscles. 
 As it is not penetrated by the poisons in the atmosphere, it is used 
 with success in counteracting the deleterious miasma around swampy 
 districts. It ought to be greatly preferred for the hair to pomades, 
 as it acts more quickly on the scalp. Taken daily, by the spoonful, 
 it is an excellent laxative to the system, and not tiresome to the 
 stomach. "* * * Mechanics refuse seed oils because of 
 their dryness, as they gum up machinery, instead of greasing it and 
 keeping it clean. It is just as important that the machinery of the 
 human body should rebel against such oils. We ought to be familiar 
 with the methods of extracting oil from all oleaginous substances, be- 
 ing so necessary to different industries. But all the table oil should 
 give the preference to that made from a tree that the Almighty saved 
 
SANTA BAKBAKA COUNTY. 81 
 
 from the destruction of the Deluge and a branch of which the dove 
 carried to Noah as a sign of forgiveness." 
 
 We refer readers to Mr. Cooper's Treatise for a full description of 
 the manner of propagating, xoruning and caring for the olive, as 
 well as the process of making the oil and pickles. We can here but 
 give a few extracts. In regard to the propagation of the tree, Mr. 
 Cooper says: The common and pref erred method is to plant the cut- 
 tings taken from the growing trees of sound wood, from three-quar- 
 ters of an inch in diameter, to one and a half, and from fourteen to 
 sixteen inches long. These cuttings should be taken from the trees 
 during the months of December and January, neatly trimmed, with- 
 out bruising and carefully trenched in loose sandy soil; a shady place 
 preferred. They should be planted in permanent sites from February 
 20th to March 20th, depending upon the season. The ground should 
 be well prepared and sufficiently dry so that there is no mud and the 
 weather warm. In Santa Barbara, near the coast, no irrigation 
 is necessary; but very frequent stirring of the top soil with 
 a hoe or iron rake for a considerable distance around the cuttings is 
 necessary during the spring and summer. About three-fourths of all 
 that are well planted will grow. My plan is to set them twenty feet 
 apart each way, and place them in the ground butt end down, and at 
 an angle of about forty-five degrees, the top to the north barely cov- 
 ered. Mark the place with a stake. By planting them obliquely, 
 the bottom end will be from ten inches to one foot below the surface. 
 In Europe the trees are planted from 27 to 33 feet apart. My reasons 
 for closer planting will be given in a subsequent article. 
 
 All trees, as a rule, should be propagated from seeds. The roots 
 are more symmetrical, the tree not so liable to be blown over, and the 
 growth more healthful; but I have not been successful in germinating 
 them, hence I recommend the cutting. If trees are propagated from 
 seeds, budding or grafting is necessary. I have seen the statement 
 that it was necessary that the seeds should pass through the stomachs 
 of birds before they could be sprouted; also that by soaking in strong- 
 lye the sprouting would be secured. I have not seen the result of 
 either experiment, and accept the statement with more or less dis- 
 trust. I presume cuttings can be obtained from any of the Mission 
 orchards in the southern counties. * * * The cuttings 
 will throw up numerous shoots or sprouts, all of which should be left 
 to grow the first year, any disturbance of the top affects the growth 
 of the roots. It would be advisable, however, where there are two or 
 more vigorous shoots of about the same size and height from the 
 same cutting, to pinch the tops of all excepting the one to be left for 
 the future tree, so as to throw more force and vigor into that one. * 
 
 * * Trees growing from cuttings will produce fruit the 
 fourth year, and sometimes, under the most favorable circumstances, 
 
S2 SANTA BARBARA CTOtfNTY, 
 
 will give a few berries the third year. It is the habit of the tree to 
 overbear, and as a consequence will give but little fruit the year fol- 
 lowing a heavy crop. This statement is verified by the most reliable 1 
 books published on the subject in the French, Italian and Spanish- 
 languages. There are, however, exceptions to this rule in California, 
 Mr. Davis, who had charge of the San Diego Mission orchard in 1875 y 
 assured me that he had gathered from the same tree, two years in suc- 
 cession, over 150 gallons of berries. I have also observed that some 
 trees in my orchards have borne well successive years. The fruit- 
 bearing can be controlled by the pruning. The cultivator will not 
 forget that the slioots or branches must be two years old before they 
 will give fruit, hence, partial pruning every year will give partial 
 crops. My oldest orchard was planted February 21st, 1872. At four 
 years I gathered from some of the trees over two gallons of berries. 
 In 1878 over thirty gallons each off a few of the best trees, the orchard 
 then being only six years old. In 1879; the crop was not nearly so 
 large. I had planted several thousand cuttings in the spring of 1873, 
 but these trees did not give at six years, a result equal to the first 
 planting. The present crop, (1880) is quite good; the oldest orchard 
 now being eight years, and I think I do not overestimate, when I 
 state that the yield of some of the best and fullest trees will be over 
 forty gallons. Trees large enough to give this quantity of fruit? 
 planted at a distance of twenty feet, will occupy nearly all the ground, 
 and therefore give all the fruit that can be produced on one acre. * * 
 
 The newness and richness of our soil will probably give, the first 
 fifty years, double the best results given in those countries where oil 
 making has been the business for so many generations. Our climate 
 is congenial to the habit of the tree; it blossoms from the 1st to the 
 10th of May, and the fruit forms from the 1st to the 10th of June. 
 At this season we have our best weather, free from extremes of either 
 cold or heat. Nowhere in the world are all the conditions so favor- 
 able to perfect fruit-bearing. * * * 
 
 The olive usually ripens in November. In some localities in 
 Eastern countries during favorable years, the fruit picking for oil 
 begins as early as October, and for pickling, in September. In Santa 
 Barbara the crop of last year, (1880) as also that of 1878, was unusu- 
 ally late in ripening, not being ready to pick before the middle of 
 January — a delay of fully two months — the cause no doubt owing to 
 the extraordinary rain fall of these two years. 
 
 HONEY. 
 
 A very comprehensive little paper, on the history and progress of 
 the bee business in Santa Barbara, written by Oeo. A. Temple, then 
 a partner in the Queen City Apiary, appeared in the pamphlet pub- 
 
SATSTA BABBABA COUNTY. 83 
 
 lished by Joseph J. Perkins in 1881. The same was submitted to 
 Judge Hatch, now sole owner of a number of apiaries scattered 
 through the county, and being pronounced correct in the main, is here 
 reproduced by special permission of Mr. Perkins : 
 
 The vicissitudes of bee-keeping have been many and varied, it 
 having passed through the ordeal of haps and mishaps usual to the 
 early history of almost all business ventures, and it stands to-day on 
 a substantial basis of success, and an assured prosperity. Having no 
 data, however, while at my apiary to guide me in such an interesting- 
 research, I shall be obliged to confine myself to such matters as I ap- 
 prehend will be of interest or instructive to any who may contem- 
 plate embarking in the business here. I will simply say in passing, 
 that bees were first introduced into this county as early as 1860 or '61, 
 by Mr. Miner, who imported some eight or ten swarms, which 
 he readily disposed of for the modest sum of $50 per swarm. Mr. 
 Miner is also credited with having built the first frame house in Santa 
 Barbara — northwest corner of Monteoito and State streets. To Mr. 
 Jefferson Archer, however, belongs the credit of being the pioneer 
 bee-man of Santa Barbara county. Coming here in December, 1873, 
 and bringing with hitn about forty-five stands of bees, he was the 
 first to engage exclusively, and on an extensive scale, in apiculture in 
 this county. Since Mr. Archer demonstrated that this county was 
 eminently adapted to honey-raising for profit, many have followed in 
 his footsteps more or less extensively and with varying success, and 
 this interesting and profitable industry has been gradually extended 
 until, with the close of the season of 1880, there were about 4,000 
 stands of bees in the county, which had yielded a product of rather 
 more than 128 tons — (256,000 lbs.)— of extracted honey. 
 
 That portion of Santa Barbara county adapted to j^rofitable honey 
 raising, compared with the extent of territory devoted to this industry 
 in some other counties, is limited, but the quality of its honey is un- 
 surpassed, and while great advancement, both in the amount of pro- 
 duct and methods employed in the apiary have been made since 
 apiculture became a recognized industry in the county, there is yet 
 ample scope for much greater extension. From the easternmost bor- 
 der of the county to its extreme western limit, honey-producing 
 plants abound in profusion, upon the scarred and rugged face of 
 every mountain and throughout the length and breadth of nearly 
 every canon, while upon each plain and in every valley, the glad 
 humming of the "busy little bee," eagerly searching for nectar in 
 the myriads of flowers there in bloom, makes glad the heart of the 
 apiarist. The mountain redwood, the black ball sage, sumac, grease 
 wood, coffee berry, etc., each in its proper time, furnishes abundant 
 honey during the "building up" or brood-rearing period in the 
 spring, but it is chiefly from the bloom of the sage family— the A. 
 
S4 
 
 SANTA BAEEAEA COUNTY. 
 
 nivea (button sage) and the A. polystachya (white sage) that the 
 bulk of the honey crop is secured. These bloom profusely, and 
 yield large quantities of honey from about May 1st until August 1st, 
 during which time the entire honey product of the county is har- 
 vested. To persons with limited capital , who are not averse to 
 dwelling amid the solitude of the mountains, and who can bring 
 energy, perseverance and good judgment to their asssistance in the 
 undertaking, apiculture offers large inducements. The possibilities 
 in apiculture are immense, while the average profit on the capital in- 
 vested, considering the amount of labor and time necessary to be 
 applied in securing a crop,, is greater than in many of the more pre- 
 tentious industries of the county. A profit of four hundred per cent, 
 on the investment has been realized from an entire apiary, while 
 even a larger interest from individual swarms is by no means un- 
 common. 
 
 I have no desire, however, to give the impression that apiculture 
 " is one of the greatest bonanzas in the land, but wish it to be well un- 
 derstood that a fair profit may reasonably be expected by any one apply- 
 ing intelligently the latest improved methods of manipulation. Bees 
 may be purchased in the winter and spring at prices ranging from $2.50 
 to $5 and $8 per swarm, and material for hives may be purchased at the 
 planing mill in Santa Barbara cut and ready to nail together for 75 
 cents each. With a fair to ordinary season a good swarm will yield 
 from 150 to 250 pounds of extracted honey, worth last season about 
 six cents per pound net in Santa Barbara. Besides the yield of honey 
 a good swarm of bees will increase two swarms in a season, while in- 
 stances are not rare of a swarm — with its earliest increase — producing 
 as many as five or even ten swarms in a season, to the infinite delight 
 of the amateur apiarist. The following statement will give a better 
 ilea of what may be accomplished in this business with a very small 
 outlay of capital : 
 
 Apiary debtor to one swarm bees , 8 5 00 
 
 To one hive (all made) . 1 00 
 
 S 6 00 
 
 Credit- 
 By 150 pounds of honey at 6 cents net 3 9 00 
 
 One swarni bees..... 5 00 
 
 814 00 
 
 A net profit, at a very reasonable estimate of S 8 00 
 
 Or 133% per cent, on capital invested— a very fair profit. 
 But like all other California industries dependent upon the rains 
 for success, apiculture is subject to occasional drawbacks. An insuffi- 
 cient rain-fall, though perhaps stimulating plants to put forth the 
 usual amount of bloom, lessens the quality of honey or curtails it 
 altogether, while a general drought affects bees as disastrously as it 
 does sheep, cattle or any other stock.- The latter, however, is fortu- 
 nately of rather infrequent occurrence, thereby enabling an apiary to 
 recuperate from its destructive influence. Aluch of the success of 
 
SANTA BABBAKA COUNTY. 85 
 
 apiculture depends upon the method or system employed in market- 
 ing the product; but as that subject does not properly come within 
 the scope of this article I will leave it and simply suggest that a 
 closer acquaintance between producer and consumer will conduce to 
 larger profits on apiarian investments; and more systematic and 
 united efforts On the part of the apiarists of the county to properly 
 grade and marKet their honey, will tend to unprecedented apicultural 
 prosperity. 
 
 FEUITS OF ONE BANCHO. 
 
 Scarcely as a representative farm, but rather as showing of what 
 the country is capable in its highest development, attention is direct- 
 ed to Col. Hollister's thrifty plantations at Glen Annie. The follow- 
 ing facts are kindly furnished by the proprietor : 
 
 Of citrus fruits there are upon the rancho 1200 orange tiees, 500 
 limes and 500 lemons. These are cultivated entirely without irriga- 
 tion; and to that fact is attributed the the extra fineness and intensity 
 of flavor of the oranges. These trees are mostly seedlings. 
 
 Of deciduous fruits, such as apples, cherries, plums, "peaches, nec- 
 tarines, apricots, etc., there about 2500 trees; 4000 English walnuts, 
 1000 olives, 10,000 almonds. Of the Japanese persimmon there are 
 200 trees. This is a most delicious fruit, the result of the evolution 
 of ages through better cultivation. 
 
 In addition to the above there are figs, guavas, loquats, shad- 
 dock and many varieties of ornamental trees and shrubs. Among 
 the small fruits cultivated are fine strawberries, blackberries and red 
 and white raspberries. 
 
 In the vegetable garden, green peas can be gathered every day in 
 the year, and most other varieties of vegetables could be the same if 
 properly cultivated. Irish potatoes do exceptionally well in this lo- 
 cality; sweet potatoes are very prolific and grow to perfection. 
 
 Of the cereals, nearly all kinds do well; Indian corn, especially, 
 often producing one hundred bushels to the acre. In fact, so far as 
 experiments have been tried, almost all food-producing crops were 
 found successful. These experiments which have been spread over a 
 series of years, at a cost of thousands of dollars, have been of great 
 benefit to smaller farmers, who could not for themselves have made 
 such expensive trials. One costly experiment was the tea-plant. Col. 
 Hollister sent to Japan in 1872 for twenty-five bushels of the seed; im- 
 porting also two Japanese tea-growers to attend the plantation. They 
 actually raised 50,000 plants, which seemed to do well, growing from 
 four to eight inches in height. As long as the warm weather lasted 
 they flourished; but when the nights became cold they gave up the 
 battle. It is the Colonel's opinion that a moister country, where 
 
86 
 
 SANTA BAKBAKA COUNTY. 
 
 sultry nights obtain, would be the proper climate for the plant. 
 
 Coffee was tried, but not to so great an extent that it can be call- 
 ed a settled question. Col. Hollister says that he did not give it a fair 
 trial, and is of the opinion that it would do tolerably half way up the 
 mountain sides. The date palm, now fruiting, seems to promise a suc- 
 cess. It is a beautiful ornamental tree, at least, and for that purpose 
 will always be a favorite. 
 
 The Glen Annie property comprises about 4800 acres; upon which 
 there are now grazing about six hundred head of neat cattle, eighty 
 horses and mules, five hundred hogs, and a thousand sheep. The 
 dairy consists of one hundred and fifty cows, giving for constant milk- 
 ing about one hundred. 
 
 All fruit not disposed of in a fresh state is dried and packed for 
 market on the place. There are employed upon the farm regularly 
 about thirty laborers, whose compensation ranges from twenty to thir- 
 ty dollars per month, with board and lodging. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS INDUSTEIES. 
 
 Sericulture is an industry which is especially adapted to the climatic 
 and other conditions of the coast and of Santa Barbara county. 
 Here the first experiments were made twenty -five years ago. The first 
 silk flag ever made in the State of California was manufactured from 
 the cocoons of Santa Barbara silk worms. The mulberry trees plant- 
 ed by Messrs. Packard and Goux still remain to prove the theory here 
 advanced. There is at present a renewal of interest in the subject, 
 owing to the action of the Government, and there is some reason to 
 hope that a sericulture station for experiments may be established 
 here. 
 
 Pampas plumes are among our most notable exports — thousands 
 are shipped every season to Europe and the East. It is a paying bus- 
 iness. An acre of ground has been known to produce plumes which 
 sold for more than $1000. 
 
 Free stone is another item by which the c ountry will some time 
 be made wealthier, when its quality and value become more widely 
 known: 
 
 Oil wells have not, so far, been developed to any alarming extent, 
 although petroleum certainly exists in many places. At times com- 
 panies have been formed and efforts made to bring the oil to the sur- 
 face in paying quantities, and in the neighboring county of Ventura, 
 the wells have been rendered a source of profit. 
 
 Mining of all kinds has never got much of a foothold within the 
 county, the only paying mineral product so far being the asphaltum, 
 which is shipped in large quantities. 
 
CATTLE, HOGS, POULTRY. 
 
 Thoroughbreds, Dairying and Wool-Grow- 
 ing in Santa Barbara. 
 
 THE HOESE IN SANTA BAEBAEA. 
 
 [By A. W. Canfield.] 
 
 A reputation was long ago made for this county, as one of the 
 most desirable places in the world for the breeding of horses. The 
 native horse, foaled among the wild beasts of the mountains, came 
 into the world to fear every sound; many a colt in those days fell a 
 prey to the lions or grizzlies which roamed among the mountains. 
 Those which survived gamboled among the oaks and pines, feeding 
 upon the rich grasses on the rolling lands, in this dry and even 
 climate — all these points making uij the requisites which are sought 
 for by those who have made a success of horse-breeding. 
 
 The staying powers of the native horse were wonderful. Only a 
 few years ago an old "pinto," which had daily delivered groceries 
 about town for many years, weighted with a California saddle of 50 
 pounds, besides his rider, made the distance between Santa Barbara 
 and Los Angeles — over 100 miles — without shoes, between sun and 
 sun in one day! 
 
 Another ran four mile heats in Los Angeles county in 7:30. The 
 last quarter of the last mile was covered in 19% seconds. Score upon 
 score of such instances might be noted where a California horse, 
 raised in this county, has performed deeds of speed and endurance 
 that would arouse enthusiasm anywhere in the world where ever the 
 horse is known and appreciated. Seventy-five miles a day is no un- 
 common ride for a Santa Barbara horse and vaquero to make; and 
 these same horses are turned loose in a corral or picketed upon the 
 native 'grasses, without further care, the next day to buckle again to 
 his usual work. 
 
 The "iron age" for the native horse came with the introduction of 
 staging through the country; no farrier ever crippled the nimble feet 
 
ss 
 
 SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 
 
 of our mountain steeds, until the advent of civilization with all its 
 cunning artifice, which came to war upon slumbering nature. In 
 quality, shape and limberness, the foot of the horse raised upon the 
 inland ranges of Santa Barbara county, is surpassed by no class of 
 horses on earth. Since we have supplanted the native Californian 
 with the so-called * 'American horse" the quality of bone and of the 
 foot is quite noticeable; for the usual splints are few, and quarter 
 cracks and contraction and ails are almost unheard of. 
 
 The American horse matures a year earlier than in colder coun- 
 tries; two-year-olds are equally developed with three-year-olds in New 
 York. The writer has broken to harness many two-year-olds upon 
 his farm, when they went to work alongside of sis-year-olds, doing 
 their full share without any appearance of suffering. 
 
 It is, really, not our breed of horses, but the breed of climate, 
 grasses, soil and water that makes the horse of the country. In this 
 enterprise of horse-breeding Santa Barbara still offers inducements 
 to capitalists. The markets of the great southwest and Mexico, with 
 our own rapidly settling country, will absorb every fine horse that 
 can be raised for many years to come. 
 
 HOGS. 
 [By L. Babcock.] 
 
 The following practical suggestions on hog-raising are extracted 
 from an article on the subject, prepared by Mr. L. Babcock for the 
 Independent : 
 
 The question is frequently asked me, is the raising of hogs a good 
 business in California. I answer, yes. My reasons are as follows : 
 Some would say that if everybody went into the business the supply 
 would be too great, and there would not be a sufficient demand. But 
 that is impossible, for two reasons. First, the great grain-producing 
 valleys of California are nearly destitute of running water; second, the 
 cost of fencing is too great. The laws of California protect a man's 
 crops, and but few farmers will go to the expense of fencing. 
 
 Again, the world has had no devastating wars or fatal diseases for 
 the past nineteen years, and with the rapid increase of human souls, 
 our beef and mutton supplies are not in fair proportion to 
 the requirements of the meat-eating races. Then our large 
 cattle and sheep ranches are being subdivided and sold out to 
 small farmers. We all know, or least I do, that extensive cattle-raising 
 is almost at an end in North America. I will state here that in 1811 
 nearly all of the country west of the State of Indiana was one vast ex- 
 panse of prairie, grazing lands, and parts of it were covered with an 
 unlimited number of buffalo, elk, deer, antelope, etc., that furnished 
 tbe aborigines or Indians with their supplies of food for the susten- 
 ance of life, and now we have to feed them (the Indians) on beef. 
 
\ 
 
 'SA^TA BARBARA COtltfTY. 
 
 The reason why I referred back to 1841 was to show the young 
 a-eader and others how there has been a steady increase in the demand 
 from that time till this, for meat and grease; that prices have kept 
 pace with the demand; that the increase of our mining industries make 
 an increased demand for bacon and lard, bacon being the only meat 
 convienie&t for the miner. As he digs metal out of the earth, he does 
 not grumble at the price of his daily bacon. Our desert and mining 
 lands must depend upon farming localities for their food supplies, as 
 we upon them for the metals. 
 
 Hogs can be raised here with little trouble after you are prepared, 
 as we do not have any or but few storms during each year, and no 
 fatal diseases such as cholera. Neither have we any trichinae in the 
 bacons on this coast. 
 
 On the 19th of May, 1881, I purchased 120 acres of land in the 
 Xiompoc valley, all fenced and improved ready to go into the business 
 of raising and preparing hogs for the market. I also bought 600 head 
 -of hogs, big and little, and the growing crop, at a cost of $13,066. I 
 raised grain on 100 acres of the ranch. On the last of August, 1881, 
 sold to Sherman & Ealand, of Santa Barbara, 302 head of hogs. They 
 received them on the ranch and paid me §1962. 50. In September, 
 1882, I shipped to San Francisco, 323 head of hogs, off the same 
 ranch, and sold them for $3801,26, and after deducting all expenses 
 of driving, shipping, commission, etc., I got a net return of $3,284.63. 
 And I have 100 or more still left on the ranch. 
 
 The past three years have not been extra for grain raising, but 
 fair. You can figure the profits for yourself. Poor or medium lands 
 would not give so good an income, but there would not be much cap- 
 ital invested as the land would not cost so much per acre, though the 
 fencing would be the same. A band of hogs, large or small, are not 
 destructive to a grain field when turned into it at the proper time, or 
 to stacks of reaped or headed grain that has been prepared for their 
 use. The hog wastes nothing — except young chickens, ducks, tur- 
 keys and lambs, and sometimes "cultivates" the flower garden. He is 
 a great expert in "legerdemain." Give him all he wants to eat and 
 lie is quiet, and soon ready for market. The quicker you get your 
 money out of him, the better. Never hold on for an extreme high 
 price. When the hog is fat. sell him, and go for more. In conclu- 
 sion, let me say that you must have land, water and good fences, to 
 make hog-raising profitable. 
 
 DAIRYING. 
 [From the Independent of Dec. 15, 1884.] 
 During the winter season, while grass is plenty, is the busy sea- 
 son for the north county dairymen, and the amount of butter produc- 
 ed is then the highest. San Luis Obispo county has for some time 
 
90 SAXTA BARBARA COUNTY. 
 
 been the headquarters for dairy interests of Southern California, 
 and it is only of late that Santa Barbara county has claimed any im- 
 portance in this branch of industry.- But the Swiss of San Luis, as 
 also the Americans in the business, have been gradually spreading out 
 and down until there are dairies down as far as Las Cruces. In con- 
 versation with Antonio Bighetti, proprietor of thelNajoqui dairy, near 
 Las Cruces, a few facts were learned in regard to the profits of butter 
 making. Taking one dairy as an illustration, of 1,500 acres, upon, 
 which 150 cows are milked during the winter, and fifty or sixty dur- 
 ing the summer, it willbe seen that there is much money to be made, 
 if properly managed. During the season of ample feed, the amount 
 of butter produced upon the Najoqui is about 185 pounds per day. 
 This is shipped regularly once a week to San Francisco by steamer 
 from Gaviota in boxes, and nets in San Francisco to the dairyman, 21 
 cents. This makes a return of $38.85 per day for butter alone. Be- 
 sides this, the proprietor feeds a calf for each cow, which becomes a 
 source of profit, in the neighborhood of 810 each per year, or about 
 §1,500 per annum for the calves. Besides this, about May, after the 
 calves have been turned from, milk to pasture, there is sour milk 
 enough to fatten eighty hogs. These are worth five cents per pound. 
 A hog weighing 100 pounds when first bought, in a month should 
 weigh 200 upon the rich healthful diet, making a gain of 100 pounds 
 at 5 cents equal to 85 on each hog, or $400 on the lot as a month's 
 profit. In these three items, butter, calves and hogs, the profit lies. 
 The income from them depends upon the skill, energy, intelligence 
 and industry of the proprietor. The Swiss, judging by their past suc- 
 cess and present growth, are gaining the ascendancy, probably from 
 more thrifty habits. Upon the ranch taken as an example 84,000 has 
 been cleared in a year. The capital invested in land, cattle and fix- 
 tures was 82,500, being a profit of 17 per cent. But this was not all. 
 At the close of the year the property had almost doubled in value 
 through improvements in the land and stock and increase in calves. 
 Only six men employed at 830 per month are required upon the Na- 
 joqui and eight horses for saddle and four work animals. These fig- 
 ures are given in a rough shape as it is impossible to calculate close- 
 ly upon a business where the individuality of the proprietor makes 
 such a difference. But it is a significant fact that after ten vears work 
 one Swiss dairyman has rented his ranch and returned to Switzerland, 
 living upon the interest of his money. The business is 'not difficult 
 to learn. We are told that none of the Swiss who now do such a large 
 proportion of the business understood it when they first came here, 
 but learned it simply by working upon dairy ranches. The industry 
 now looks more promising than ever. Butter being always in demand 
 makes an unfailing market. The soil if properly managed may yet 
 solve the summer problem and an equal number of cattle be milked all 
 the vear round. 
 
SANTA BAKBAKA COUNTY. 91 
 
 POULTKY. 
 [By A. W. Canfield.] 
 
 We will offer an occupation to every man and woman able to do 
 anything. Sometime the question may come to you, What shall I 
 do when I get to Santa Barbara? Let me answer ! You can raise poul- 
 try with profit near our growing city, with pleasure and profit. Fowls 
 are in ready demand at our hotels and restaurants the year round. 
 It is now May 5th, and chickens or fowls are bought at $7 per dozen; 
 eggs are always in good demand, the highest price of the year being 
 fifty cents per dozen, the lowest price fifteen cents. The aver- 
 age price may fairly be estimated at thirty cents per dozen. With 
 these very fair prices you calculate that a brood of chickens may be 
 raised from chickenhood to maturity through any part of the year in 
 the open air with great success. Mortality in chicks about Santa Bar- 
 bara is very slight when proper care and feed is given the fowl and 
 brood. Cleanliness is the main thing the denizens of our poultry 
 yards demand of their keepers. Everything else will go well if the 
 proprietor of "commercial poultry keeping" will observe this law. 
 Grain, vegetables, butchers' scraps, hotel and restaurant refuse can 
 always be bought at a price that pays to feed fowls about Santa Bar- 
 bara. 
 
 The incubator is receiving considerable attention from those so 
 enthusiastic that numbers and labors and care are of no manner of 
 account until the problem is thrust squarely before them. Our 
 matchless climate, so even after sun down to sun rise, allows the incu- 
 bator to do the best possible iwork. The hatch from the incubators 
 the past season is fully equal to the same work done by the hen- 
 mothers. The county is stocked with a fair quality of common fowls 
 and the yards of our local fanciers afford variety equal to any, 
 and excellence of type that will satisfy the most exacting judge of 
 high-grade fowls. 
 
 For the delicate man of moderate means no better nor pleasanter 
 occupation offers itself than the keeping of a number of fowls. Any 
 day that one is well enough to be about, the care of poultry is not det- 
 rimental to the most sensitive nature. Occupation that employs the 
 hands takes care off the mind and relieves that depression that always 
 goes with ill health especially when a person has no employment. 
 Cheap lands and snug little homes can be had near Santa Barbara 
 suitable for poultry keeping. Those who have kept fowls elsewhere 
 and will try them in Santa Barbara will have no trouble in starting in 
 the right direction. To the novice we would offer a word of caution, 
 "go slow;" observe the differences in the changes of country, and 
 allow the poultry business to "grow to you," and it will be found an- 
 other among the long list of useful pursuits which is preeminently 
 adapted to Santa Barbara county. 
 
HUNTING AND FISHING. 
 
 Sport on Land and Sea in and About Santa 
 
 Barbara. 
 
 Santa Barbara is preeminently a game county. In the proper 
 season wild geese and ducks, snipe, quail and rabbits (both cotton- 
 tail and jack rabbits) are plentiful, affording both pleasure and profit 
 to the scientific Nfmrod. Along the Santa Ynez river and among the 
 foothills deer are likewise to be found in numbers; and twenty miles 
 from the city the grizzly may be interviewed by the cool and cautious 
 hunter who desires such an interview. There, too, and up in the 
 Cuyama country, may be found the mountain sheep, the coon, the 
 wildcat, the coyote and the California lion, which is really a cougar. 
 The gamy trout abounds in mountain streams, and all these at a short 
 distance from civilization, easily reached on horseback, the best hunt- 
 ing grouads not being favorable for the passage of wheeled vehicles. 
 
 THE FISHERIES. 
 
 The Santa Barbara Channel, which includes the coast from Point 
 Concepcion to Ventura, bordered by the islands of San Miguel, Santa 
 Rosa, Santa Cruz and Anacapa, as a fishing ground has no superior 
 on the whole coast of California. The islands are fringed with kelp: 
 so also is the main shore, and this marine growth gives security and 
 feeding grounds for the rock cod, red fish, craw fish, smelt, flounder, 
 halibut, sardine and other varieties. In winter mackerel of 
 fine flavor are taken; during the months of June and July 
 the delicate pompano is found in abundance, and during the sea- 
 son (summer) the barracuda, bonita and albacore are taken by troll- 
 ing in sail boats. It requires a stiff breeze to decoy them to the pre- 
 tending sardine, and pleasure combines with profit in a day so spent 
 upon the blue waters of the channel. Parties are formed almost daily 
 during the season, who are taken out by' one of the pleasure boats, 
 schooners and other craft, to spend the day upon the water, coming 
 
SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 93 
 
 back at night with loads of fish and sunburnt faces. 
 
 The abalone trade is worth mentioning as a separate industry. 
 The shells are gathered upon the islands and shipped east to be 
 wrought into jewelry. The clams of the coast have been noted 
 hitherto; there are also mussels in quantity and traditions of oyster 
 beds about the islands. 
 
 The seal and otter hunters, for whom Santa Barbara was once 
 noted, still ply their adventurous trade; but the game they seek is no 
 longer plenty in the old haunts about the islands. The otter in fact 
 have about disappeared from these waters; but the seal rookeries on 
 the different islands are yet of sufficient importance to tempt an occa- 
 sional crew of hardy mariners. 
 
 As a sea-port town, Santa Barbara has naturally a number of 
 craft always lying near the wharf or flying here and there about the 
 channel, and a favorite pleasure trip is that of crossing the channel to 
 the islands, of which much might be said. But we have already spun 
 out our descriptions to a far greater degree than was anticipated and 
 circumstances over which we have no control oblige us to come to a stop . 
 
 Wool Growing. 
 
 It is not many years ago that this county was preeminently a 
 sheep district. From paragraphs scattered here and there throughout 
 this pamphlet, it will be gathered by the sapient reader that wool- 
 growing no longer occupies the ranch owner to the exclusion of 
 everything else. The industry was introduced by Col. Hollister, 
 more than twenty-five years ago, he bringing a band of sheep across 
 the continent as his sole wealth. The story of his experience has 
 been often told — a story which must interest every one, on account of 
 the dogged perseverance displayed, with which he clung to the busi- 
 ness, against all manner of drawbacks, until he became the owner of 
 thousands oi; acres of the finest land on earth, and these acres inhab- 
 ited by flocks and herds of almost fabulous value. 
 
 But the business of sheep and wool growing is, as we have be- 
 fore intimated, no longer of the first importance. It requires too 
 much land to be entered into without considerable capital, and those 
 of small means will scarcely think of it. We had contemplated a full 
 account of the industry from its first inception, but have been obliged 
 reluctantly to abandon the idea. 
 
 There are now, in fact, but two or three large sheep-owners re- 
 maining in this county — the Dibblees, J. W. Cooper and Col. Hollis- 
 ter being the only ones owning them by the thousand. This, how- 
 ever, does not include the islands. Both Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz 
 are largely stocked with sheep. Small schooners owned by the pro- 
 prietors are kept busy between the islands and the main land, and 
 steamers also touch at the island wharves to carry the wool and mut- 
 ton to the San Francisco market. 
 
AN ADDRESS 
 
 Delivered by Hon. Chas. Fernald, Mayor of 
 Santa Barbara, 
 
 Before the Agricultural and Horticultural Societies of 
 Santa Barbara, at Lobero's Theatre, 
 October 11th, 1883. 
 
 Mr. President, Ladies and Gentlemen of the Santa Barbara Agri- 
 cultural and Horticultural Societies : I "believe I ought first to con- 
 gratulate you upon the success of your fair. This display of the 
 varied and rich products of our' home farms and orchards is most sat- 
 isfactory and encouraging. The bounteous profusion which we see 
 around ua must fill our hearts with gratitude to the ''Lord of the 
 Harvest," and strengthen our attachment to this greatly favored land. 
 Nor can it fail to increase our interest in the development of our agri- 
 cultural, horticultural and pastoral resources. 
 
 Great changes have, indeed, taken place in the employment and 
 pursuits of the people of this county during my residence here. This 
 rare exhibition is, perhaps, for that reason, more interesting to me in 
 many ways than to most of you who belong to the period of the re- 
 naissance, so to speak; while I may be classed with the pioneers, a 
 very select few who came a little in advance to gain the pleasure of 
 welcoming you on your arrival to this land of fulfillment. We knew 
 all the time that you would follow, although some of us were well- 
 nigh out of patience at your delay. 
 
 The principal pursuit of the people of this county, as well as of 
 all this part of our State from the year 1852 till 1863 (as it had been 
 long before), was the raising of neat cattle, horses and sheep. At 
 all, or nearly all of the Missions there were flourishing orchards and 
 vineyards, with acqueducts and ample water supply for irrigation. 
 There were a few vineyards and some orchards in sheltered places here 
 and there on some of the great ranchos, as these estates were 
 called, where, some good wine was made and olives of excellent qual- 
 
SANTA EABBAKA COTXNTV. 
 
 ity were preserved. Almost every rancho had also its fenced field 
 where a little wheat, barley, corn, squashes and melons were raised 
 for home use. 
 
 In the town here, from the time I came till about 1869 or 1870, the 
 vegetables consumed, for the most part, came to us by steamer once a 
 week from San Francisco. 
 
 The business of raising cattle in large herds in Southern Califor- 
 nia may be said to have come to an end by the great drouth in the 
 year 1864. Nearly all of the live stock perished in that year. Land 
 without cattle was worthless, and many of the principal land owners 
 were impoverished. 
 
 Farmers, what few came in those early times, met with obstacles 
 and difficulties which no longer exist. You can hardly realize how 
 great they were. In a country over run by wild cattle and horses, no 
 farming could be done without fences to protect the growing crops. 
 Fencing was very expensive by reason of scarcity of material and cost 
 of transportation. And then if more of a crop was raised than was 
 wanted to supply the home demand, a loss was suffered by the exper- 
 imental farmer; for the expense and difficulties of transportation cut 
 off competition in other markets. And again, if the crop were grain, 
 as soon as ripe in the field, a controversy would arise between the 
 farmer and the squirrels to determine which party could get posses- 
 sion of the most of it. In these contests the farmer generally got the 
 worst of it, for he would spend about as much money and time in 
 efforts to destroy the vermin, as his share of the crop was worth. 
 Profitable crops and fruits could only be determined by continual 
 and expensive experiments in this new land. 
 
 Despite all these obstacles and difficulties it may be said that 
 from about the year 1870 the farming and fruit interests began to 
 develope and to merit recognition as a source of wealth; and notwith- 
 standing some failures and discouragements, have continued to in- 
 crease stealily till the present time. We see around us to-day the 
 most assuring evidence of permanent success. 
 
 The farming interest in this county now predominates over all 
 others. 
 
 I am enabled by the painstaking labor of a friend, to present a 
 
 statement of farm products for the present year, based upon estimates 
 
 of the year 1881, which may be accepted as approximately correct : 
 
 Wheat, bushels, 950,000; acreage, 40,000 
 Barley, " 67 " 25,000 
 
 Oats, " 1200; " 75 
 
 Corn, " 95,000; " 25,000 
 
 Buckwheat, " 1,200; " n 
 
 Peas, " 200; « 5 
 
 Beans, bushels, 
 
 100,000: 
 
 acreage, 8,500 
 
 Potatoes, tons.... 
 
 
 450 
 
 Sweet " " .... 
 
 . 150; 
 
 20 
 
 Onions, bushels 
 
 .. 175; 
 
 % 
 
 Hay, tons 
 
 .. 2,000: 
 
 " 5,500 
 
 Flax, pounds 
 
 275,000; 
 
 300 
 
 Our grain producing district lies in the northern part of the 
 county, embracing the great valleys of Santa Ynez, Los Alamos, 
 Lonrpoc, Santa Maria and Guadalupe. 
 
96 
 
 SANTA BAKBAEA COUNTY. 
 
 The wool, cattle and dairy interests stand next in rank in point 
 of value, the sheep numbering about one hundred and fifty thousand, 
 and the neat cattle not falling short of twenty thousand head, mostly 
 in small bands and of approved breeds. 
 
 Fruit and nut bearing trees may be fairly estimated to cover three 
 thousand acres. Our rich and sheltered valleys afford ample space 
 for fruit culture. The cannery and the fruit dryer assure large profits 
 to the producer by reducing bulk and cost of transportation to other 
 markets. • 
 
 The cultivation of the walnut promises large returns to those 
 who can afford to wait the growth and maturity of this valuable tree. 
 In the very fertile and deep soil of the valley of "La Carpinteria," at 
 "La Goleta," the "Dos Pueblos" and many parts of Montecito this 
 nut tree, the olive, and many other fruit trees yield abundantly, and 
 of the best quality, without irrigation. Indeed those valleys pro- 
 duce a greater variety of excellent fruits than any locality with which 
 I am acquainted; due, perhaps in part, to the adjacent protecting 
 range of mountains. These places being almost exempt from frosts, 
 many varieties of trees, the olive and citrus especially, are liable to 
 be injured by insects and fruit pests of other and warmer climes. 
 This impending danger must be warded off by the combined action 
 and honest work of all fruit raisers; for all are equally interested. 
 Some provision ought to be made for condemning and destroying, if 
 need be, a neglected and hopelessly infected orchard, for the com- 
 mon good, as all other nuisances are dealt with. The insect-devour- 
 ing birds should be protected at all hazards, as they are the most con- 
 stant and serviceable auxiliaries of the fruit raiser. 
 
 I must claim the privilege of suggesting to those who are fortu- 
 nate enough to possess a few acres of surplus land, the policy of 
 planting out in angles and corners, and along the borders of your 
 farms valuable timber trees, such for instance as the black walnut 
 and hickory, which appear to thrive in our deep soils as well as in 
 the lands east of the Mississippi. The hillsides, ravines and parcels 
 of what seem waste land afford room for many valuable varieties of 
 pine and other forest trees, giving beauty and value alike to the 
 farm. 
 
 With the coming of good farmers and fruit raisers, of course 
 there came into existence these twin societies, so necessary to pro- 
 mote these great industries in our own county, and by comparison 
 and competition to advance the sarpe interests elsewhere in our 
 State. In this way the experience of one farmer or fruit raiser in the 
 choice of land, methods of cultivation, selection of crops and of fruit 
 trees, comes to be multiplied indefinitely. And it seems to me that 
 the collection of authentic statistics by your societies, of the products 
 of our farms and orchards and vineyards, would prove of very great 
 value. 
 
SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 97 
 
 These annual competitive expositions create pride in and respect 
 for the farm and for its varied employments. Agriculture and horti- 
 culture do not admit of monopoly; and the competition, of the farmer 
 is about the only one that does not engender strife or bitterness. 
 Success of one does not imply defeat of some other competitor for the 
 best products of the field. In other vocations men try to out- wit and 
 get ahead of each other. The farmer must of course exercise good 
 judgment in buying his land. Soils must be examined, exposures 
 considered, means of transportation, and sanitary questions not over- 
 looked. Poor land means a life of labor and a constant struggle with 
 poverty. 
 
 Quality rather than quantity of crop makes the successful 
 farmer, in the long run. All must see how far these competitive ex- 
 positions go to prove this proposition. All now look for the best of 
 everything. The work of producing and harvesting a crop of bad, is 
 as expensive as one of good quality; aud a prudent and wise farmer 
 will content himself with being a producer, selling his crops season- 
 ably, and never tempted to speculate in his own products, nor to 
 compete with the grain merchants with whom he must always be at 
 a disadvantage. He might as well try to control the rainfall as to at- 
 tempt to fix the price of commodities in the great markets of the 
 world. 
 
 In this part of our State where the annual rainfall is often scanty, 
 a stream of pure water, or some copious water supply is an element of 
 great value to the farm and to the orchard. A field of alfalfa or mil- 
 let is a mine of wealth to the farmer in a rainless year. By it he is 
 enabled to keep in good condition farm stock that would perish with- 
 out it. No farmer should be without a few head of very choice stock. 
 It is the truest economy. The cost of raising a fine animal is no 
 greater than an inferior one. The exhibit of well-bred stock here, 
 shows that you appreciate this important fact. 
 
 The manufacturing interests are great; the combined transporta- 
 tion enterprises by land and sea are great; but the farming interests are 
 yet greater than all, for all rest upon them. With what feverish anxiety 
 does the world await the first reports from the harvest fields in this 
 country. A few wet days, more or less, before harvest in England 
 affect the price of grain all over the world. For if the crop is short 
 there, it is known that English grain merchants must be in the market 
 to buy enough to make up the deficiency. Indeed, of late years, 
 England has relied upon us for her yearly supply of grain. Little 
 did they think when the "May Flower" set her sails, that the history of 
 Joseph and his brethren might again be repeated and gain a national 
 significance. Much of our wheat finds its way to France and Ger- . 
 many also. Our agricultural resources excite the greatest interest 
 everywhere. As an evidence of this we have seen that in 1879 the 
 British government sent a commission to this countrv to examine the 
 
08 
 
 SANTA BAEBAEA COt'XTI', 
 
 grain producing area, extent of supply and methods of production. 
 
 The work has been accomplished and the report of the commis- 
 sion is soon to be made public. It cannot fail to be as advantageous 
 to us as to our customers across the sea. While with us it is a question 
 what to do with our surplus, in England, and not infrequently in 
 France and Germany, it is a more serious matter where to look for a 
 supply. England and Germany have not land enough for the people. 
 In England there is coal and iron in abundance, and multitudes of 
 skilled workmen who must work day in and day out for bread. They 
 can build ships cheaper than any other people, and have well nigh 
 monopolized the carrying trade. The largest part of our surplus grain 
 is taken yearly in their ships to foreign markets. 
 
 We see that the British Isles, with their thirty-three millions of 
 people, have but two and one-third acres of land to each inhabitant. 
 It is not surprising that the ownership of land in that country should 
 give social rank and influence. How best to cultivate these few acres, 
 (exclusive of the great parks and forests of the. noblemen) to furnish 
 the largest supply of bread and meat from year to year, is the vital 
 question there. Hence agriculture is studied by some of the ablest 
 men. It is there a question of chemistry, engineering and drainage, 
 as well as of economy and finance. It is not of so much importance 
 what the present crop is to be (as with us,) but the next and for future 
 years. Our soils are rich and we do not heed the future. There they 
 must restore annually — -pay back — something to make good the waste 
 and restore the equilibrium of productive power. Some years ago it 
 was stated upon undoubted authority, that the value of the animal 
 manure yearly applied to the crops in England, at current prices, 
 surpassed the whole amount of its foreign commerce. The land in 
 that country is in the hands of a few persons, hence the rates of rent 
 assume very much the same importance that the transportation ques- 
 tion does in this country. 
 
 The whole Jand of France is suffcient only to give its thirty-seven 
 millions of people three and a half acres; while Germany, with for- 
 ty-three millions, has but three acres to each person. All these coun- 
 tries do not make up the area of the Mississippi valley, and their total 
 populations might be thrust into that valley and Texas, and yet there 
 would be room for more. The people cannot buy land in those coun- 
 tries and hence they come to our new territories where lands can be 
 had at low prices. And there can be no doubt that immigration to 
 this country is favored by the English and German governments, as a 
 temporary means of postponing and escaping the difficulties of the 
 labor and land questions. The titled classes, controlling the State with 
 a standing army, will not surrender to husbandry their parks and 
 manors. 
 
 Our population in 1880, was a little more than fifty millions. 
 We had land enough then to afford fifty-eight acres to each inhabitant. 
 
SANTA BAEBAEA COUNTY. 99 
 
 Compare the aggregate wealth of those great nations with our 
 own and the result is very much in our favor. In our country the 
 total amount reaches forty-nine thousand seven hundred and seventy 
 millions of dollars. 
 
 Great Britain comes next with forty thousand millions. France 
 and Germany follow, each with about ten per cent, less. 
 
 In the United States there would be $995 to each person. In 
 Great Britain 81,160 to each. 
 
 The remuneration of labor in all these countries cannot be with- 
 out interest to us. In this country, assuming the product of labor 
 to be 100, seventy-two parts go to the laborer, twenty-three to capital 
 and five to the Government in various forms. 
 
 In Great Britain, fifty-six parts go to the laborer, twenty-one to 
 capita! and twenty-three to the Government. 
 
 In France, forty-one to the laborer, thirty-six to capital and 
 twenty-three to the Government. In Germany the result is nearly 
 the same. Sixteen per cent, more of the produce of labor goes to 
 the laborer in this country than in England, and thirty-one more 
 than in France and Germany. 
 
 Everything that relates to the public lands, the common inheri- 
 tance of all, and its disposition by Government, must be of great inter- 
 est to farmers. And all must see that our national legislation, tend- 
 ing to create monopolies in land, is a serious blunder. The grants by 
 Congress to railroad corporations within the last twenty years, more 
 than equal in area all of the New England States. And under the 
 so-called "timber act" passed ostensibly to promote the growth of 
 timber, nearly all of the accessible and valuable timber lands of our 
 northwest coast have passed into the possession of a few mill owners 
 by a scandalous abuse and perversion of the law, bad as it un- 
 doubtedly is. 
 
 This fine timber, the growth of ages, will shortly disappear by 
 the steam saw mill, by waste and by fires. 
 
 In the nature of things eveiy wrong and error, individual and na- 
 tional, exact a penalty. As our population increases the demand for 
 land will increase and it is certain we shall repent of the folly, al- 
 though to avert the consequences may not be so easy. It is true that 
 our laws of succession tend to favor the division of estates, offering a 
 slow but peaceable remedy for the accumulation of land in individual 
 cases, but they do not affect land-holding by corporations under con- 
 gressional grants. 
 
 It may be said that it is the purpose of the corporations to sell 
 these lands; but it rarely happens that patents are applied for till set- 
 tlement and improvement of adjoining sections sold by the govern- 
 ment to farmers have created a demand for them, which the corporations 
 take advantage of in fixing prices. And it is understood that no taxes 
 are paid on these vast grants listed to the corporations till patents are 
 
100 
 
 SANTA BAKBAEA CUtTNTT. 
 
 issued by the Interior Department. These grants were and are feu- 
 dalistic in tendency and productive of evils which the wisest Englisk 
 statesmen are seeking to abate in Great Britain without a revolution. 
 
 Our government is founded upon the theory of the greatest good 
 of the greatest number, or to speak more accurately, the greatest good 
 of all. "We have seen what has been accomplished bv it — obstructed 
 as it has been in some of our great cities by what may not be inaptly 
 called, untimely crowding from below. The remedy for this evil is to 
 broaden the republic at the base by increasing the number of farm- 
 ers who own the lands they cultivate and not by any system of agri- 
 cultural serfdom, which is but a substitute for slavery. 
 
 The owners of the lands of a country will ultimately shape its 
 legislation and control its policy and destiny, and it is one of the hope- 
 ful signs of the present day to see so many educated business men r 
 and especially young men, buying lands to become farmers and fruit 
 raisers. Tenure must be fixed and not subject to change. 
 
 Ownership of land increases industry and desire to improve it, 
 I suppose there never was a tenant who did not desire, in his heart, 
 to acquire his landlord's title in some way. Ownership of lands in 
 reasonably small parcels, by the farmers who have worked their acres 
 is the secret of the marvelous growth of New York, Ohio, Illinois and 
 the northwestern States. 
 
 "Slavery," it is said, "has its lash," but no inducement to labor 
 other than the ownership of property, has yet been devised by the 
 wit of man. In commercial pursuits but few attain permanent suc- 
 cess, even at the cost of life-long efforts. A large percentage fail 
 outright. In manufacturing, laborers must be more or less a depen- 
 dent class. Peace or war, the state of trade and commerce, public 
 disaster, high or low tariff, business panics and the like, affect employ- 
 ment, and make them necessarily dependent upon others for the 
 means of support. And in cases of failure of employment the suffer- 
 ing and want will be great in proportion to the numbers affected. The 
 farmer, on the other hand, made secure by his own labor — the highest 
 form of title — in the possession of the product of his own acres, must 
 be regarded as the most fortunate and independent. 
 
 In all ages there have been theorists and dreamers who have 
 planned to put an end to poverty. But the farmer alone is the posses- 
 sor of the secret. His own instructed labor, with the rains, the dews 
 and the sunshine, have given it into his possession and-committed it 
 to his keeping as long as he will. He has yet more. As a compensa- 
 tion for his toil he has the infinite and pure pleasure of witnessing 
 the mysterious birth and development of plants and trees in all their 
 varied and beauteous forms. "The wild roses of the wood" breathe 
 upon him, the apple blossoms and the- new-mown hay give him their 
 matchless perfume, and the ripe fruits in their season furnish forth 
 his table. 
 
SANTA BAKBARA COUNTY. 101 
 
 Anions: the products of the soil, 
 The fruits of free and honest toil. 
 St. Barbara's wheat and wine and oil, 
 
 What sliall a landless poet bring, 
 Who has but heaps of heathen spoil 
 For harvesting? 
 
 The artist's dream of woodland grace 
 Or memory of a lovely face; 
 The maiden's web of filmy lace; 
 
 The housewife's skill, the mysteries 
 Of modern art, are all in place 
 And safe tj please. 
 
 The flower and fruit of every zone 
 St. Barbara welcomes its her own. 
 And her enthusiast sons have shown 
 
 A courage in them lurk 
 For greater victories to be won 
 Through honest work. 
 
 But we, who have no tenancies 
 
 In golden grain or olive trees; 
 
 No bouse norland; instead of these, 
 
 In airy towers of fairy gold, 
 We weave lint phantom tapestries 
 Against the cold. 
 
 < ) then, while farmers bring the spoil 
 
 They gather from a fertile soil, 
 
 si. Barbara's wheat and wine and oil; 
 
 A landless poet can but bring 
 A simple rhyme, not worth the toil 
 
 Of harvesting! 
 
 „ nn , Mary C. F. Hall- Wood. 
 
 Nov. 9, 1881. 
 
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Latitude, 31° 26'; Longitude, 119° 43'. Height above the Sea, 30 feet. 
 From. Ja nuary 1, 1883 to January 1, 1884, By Greo. P. TeTobetts. 
 
 eo. [ 
 
 April. 
 
 ill 
 
 May. 
 
 Aug. 
 
 OOOOlS!) 
 02 15100 
 
 63 79 61 
 
 04 70,01 
 
 0.572I01 
 
 047261 
 
 Sept.] 
 
 57, 
 
 i? <0 5i 
 4o'7o5i 
 
 50,08 54 
 
 Nov. 
 
 45:704 
 
 55 74 5 
 
 55 51.15 
 
 Dec. 
 
 Ill 
 
 !'"' 50 
 
 43;70|4S 
 
 40 To 48 
 4:i07 40 
 
 Comparative Tempera 
 
 triro. 
 
 At Various Celebra 
 
 e,l Health Hesorts, and 
 
 otlier PI 
 
 ices of Note: 
 
 
 
 Win- 
 
 Sp ,„. 
 
 sun, 
 
 Au- 
 
 Dif. 
 
 
 
 
 mel. 
 
 
 Win. 
 
 Fumhal, Madeira.... 
 
 ■ 
 
 .14:55 
 
 
 
 711 10 
 
 8:10 
 
 St. Michael, Azores. . . 
 
 
 01:17 
 
 il 5 
 
 !;?■:« 
 
 10:50 
 
 .SantaOiuz,('an;iries... 
 
 65 
 
 IH:H1 
 
 70-08 
 
 74-17 
 
 12:03 
 
 STA. BARBARA.... 
 
 J ■: 
 
 50:45 
 
 ii n 
 
 
 13:42 
 
 Nassau, Bahama Is. .. . 
 
 70'07 
 
 77-07 
 
 16:00 
 
 80:33 
 
 15:33 
 
 Han Diego, Cahf'rma.. 
 
 54:00 
 
 00:14 
 
 
 14:03 
 
 15:58 
 
 I5if:l, on, Portugal.. .. 
 
 
 
 71:00 
 
 
 I8:mi 
 
 Malta 
 
 57:40 
 
 
 
 Tie: 
 
 20:74 
 
 Algiers 
 
 55:00 
 
 86:00 
 
 ,,-m- 
 
 10-00 
 
 22:00 
 
 St. Augustine, Fl'a. .. 
 Rome, Italy 
 
 58:25 
 
 0S:00 
 
 80:30 
 
 n 90 
 
 22:11 
 
 18210 
 
 5/-05 
 
 ,:': 10 
 
 1: H. 
 
 2.3:20 
 
 Sacramento, Cal 
 
 47 ■<>■> 
 
 50.17 
 
 ,1:10 
 
 0T7-> 
 
 23:27 
 
 Mentone 
 
 40:50 
 
 60:00 
 
 73:00 
 
 ifi:60 
 
 25:50 
 
 Nice, Italy 
 
 47:88 
 
 50:23 
 
 ,2:20 
 
 01-03 
 
 21:41 
 
 New Orleans, La 
 
 50:00 
 
 00:37 
 
 81:08 
 
 ifl !() 
 
 25:08 
 
 Cairo, ligypt 
 
 5S:52 
 
 73:58 
 
 80-10 
 
 i 1 5 
 
 20:58 
 
 Jacks,, nville, Fl'da... 
 
 55:0" 
 
 68:8! 
 
 8i-o:; 
 
 
 20:01 
 
 Pau, France 
 
 tl:S(l 
 
 54:00 
 
 
 
 
 Florence, Italy 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 San Antonio, Texas.. 
 
 
 70:48 
 
 
 
 
 Aiken. S. Carolina. . . 
 
 15 '■. 
 
 01 :32 
 
 77:30 
 
 61 96 
 
 31 :54 
 
 Fort Yuma, California 
 
 
 7:1:41 
 
 92-07 
 
 75:00 
 
 34:11 
 
 Visalia, " 
 
 (ft Si! 
 
 59:41 
 
 
 00-34 
 
 
 Santa Fe, New Mexico 
 
 10: ! 
 
 ,0:01 
 
 70:50 
 
 51 :34 
 
 40 :22 
 
 Boston, Mass 
 
 
 45:01 
 
 6 |j 
 
 51:04 
 
 40:00 
 
 New York, N. Y 
 
 31:9: 
 
 1 !l 
 
 
 1 :5i 
 
 Hi:00 
 
 Albuquerque, N.Mex. 
 
 34:7! 
 
 50:::i 
 
 ,0:25 
 
 50:33 
 
 41:40 
 
 Denver, Colorado .... 
 
 H7:nl 
 
 5i .:. 
 
 1 HI 
 
 : II 
 
 44:00 
 
 St. Paul, Minnesota.... 
 
 15-0! 
 
 41 -2! 
 
 ,: !■()! 
 
 :,.., 
 
 52:04 
 
 Minneapolis, Minn 
 
 '•:•■ fi 
 
 10:1 
 
 68 1 
 
 -: •: 
 
 55:1!, 
 
 
 ;nest and Lowest Temperature, 
 Jan. !. 1871, to Jan. 1, 1884. 
 
 It 
 
 tfl &|s| § 
 
 1872 I 72 I 73 I 74 | 75 | 94 | 100 j 
 
 1873 I 70 I 07 I 76 I 80 I ', 
 
 'J__80J_72 I 10P 
 I 81 I 79~ 
 
 80 I 86 I 82 I 
 
 74 I 70 I 00 I 70 I 78 I 78 I 82 | 
 
 72 I 78 I 69 I 
 
 ,4 | 80JS0| 84 I 84 I 83 ; 
 
 77 I 82 I 74 I 102 
 
 76 I 80 I 84 I 94 I 84 | 
 
 'I 75 I 
 
 I 87 
 I 80 I 
 
 85 I 81 I 77 I 70 I 
 
 |_52 |_r,0 I 
 J 50 I 57 I 
 
 60 I 54 I 48 j 40 I 40 I 40 
 
 00 I 00 I 58 I 49 I 51 I 41 
 
 58 1 61 I 50 I 50 I 46 I 40 
 
 57 I 52 I 48 I 43 
 
 5 4 I 58 I 59 1 
 .50 I 59 I 60 I 
 
 ? 
 
 "" ! 4 - 1 "' 1 4 " 1 ■>" 1 :, 2 1 58 | 61 | 58 
 
 58 
 
 40 j 49 [ 40 | 40 
 
 ~ 
 
 18,8 |38 [ 41 140 ! 40 | 52 | 57 | 58 j 57 
 
 50 
 
 52 | 41 | 37 | 37 
 
 
 1879 | 5s ! 39 | l-o | 50 | 52 | 54 [ 58 | 59 
 
 !,:, 
 
 50 | 42 | 33 | 33 
 
 
 1880 | 35 | 50 [ :;:> | 40 j 51 | 52 , 53 | 54 
 
 51 
 
 41 [ 30 | 41 | 33 
 
 
 1881 | 40 | 13 i 43 [ 40 | 52 | 55 j 57 | 55 
 
 53 
 
 45 | 30 | 30 | 30 
 
 
 1 ! | £5 | 42 | J; j SO j i>,5 | 52 | riO 
 
 50 
 
 47 j 38 [ 58 - :;:.! 
 
 _ 
 
 1883 1 33 1 31 | 4, 1 44 | 50 | 52 | 50 | 55 1 
 
 58 
 
 47 | 41 | 40 | 31 
 
 \v 
 
 rage for January, 55.25. Average for July, 
 01.43. Differenee between JHily and Jai 
 
 08.15 
 
 Yearly Average, 
 15 degrees. 
 
 jSTo. of Days the Temperature got .below 42° ox' above 83°. 
 
 hays below 42 degree. 
 
 Days above 82 degrees. 
 
 v; 
 
 s 74 
 
 §75 
 
 RAINFALL AT SANTA BARBARA, From Records of Dr. Shaw and G. P. Tebbetts. 
 
 Year. 
 
 08-09 
 
 00-70 
 
 70-71 
 
 71-72 
 
 72-73 
 
 73-74 
 
 74-75 
 
 75-70 
 
 70-77 
 
 77-78 
 
 78-7! 
 
 79.80 
 
 80 81 
 
 S1-S2 
 
 82-83 
 
 55-84 
 
 Mean 
 
 Oct.. 
 
 
 .30 
 
 1.04 
 
 .09 
 
 
 
 1.01 
 
 
 
 
 .35 
 
 .44 
 
 .17 
 
 1 09 
 
 87 
 
 1.35; 
 
 .48 
 
 Nov. 
 
 1.25 
 4.26 
 
 .05 
 .57 
 
 .27 
 1.41 
 
 1.83 
 
 0.50 
 
 
 
 1.30 
 
 0.53 
 .31 
 
 
 1.41 
 
 3.5a 
 
 6.89 
 
 1.93 
 5.01 
 
 .26 
 9.5/4 
 
 .40 
 .90 
 
 .10 
 
 
 
 Dec. 
 
 4.34 
 
 .5.21 
 
 3.25 
 
 Jan.. 
 
 3.2( 
 
 .25 
 
 .86 
 
 2.53 
 
 .58 
 
 4 54 
 
 14.84 
 
 7.50 
 
 3.04 
 
 7.57 
 
 1 88 
 
 1 4" 
 
 3 0" 
 
 1 511 
 
 " 18 
 
 
 4.06 
 
 Feb.. 
 
 2.42 
 
 5.87 
 
 2.02 
 
 1.81 
 
 5.48 
 
 3.17 
 
 .18 
 
 5.07 
 
 
 1 55- 
 
 .72 
 
 11.51 
 
 .3(1 
 
 2 85 
 
 :> 05 
 
 10 07 
 
 4 30 
 
 Mar.. 
 
 
 .83 
 
 .02 
 
 .18 
 
 .05 
 
 
 .38 
 
 2.73 
 
 .61 
 
 " O.s 
 
 ,34 
 
 1 :■> 
 
 1 55 
 
 6 85 
 
 3. "7 
 
 
 
 April 
 
 .46 
 
 .99 
 
 2.02 
 
 1.80 
 
 
 .28 
 
 .1(1 
 
 .27 
 
 .3!) 
 
 3.34 
 
 1.8C 
 
 6.25 
 
 .63 
 
 2.8" 
 
 33 
 
 ■'-02 
 
 1.51 
 
 
 . .2(1 
 
 .74 
 
 .37 
 
 
 
 .14 
 
 
 
 .45 
 
 
 .3(1 
 
 
 
 
 2,65 
 
 .40; 
 
 
 June 
 
 
 .07 
 
 
 .14 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 .05 
 
 .11 
 
 
 
 
 
 1.75 
 
 .15 
 
 July 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 .07 
 
 
 ,0fi 
 
 
 
 ■01 
 
 Aug. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sept. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 .11 
 
 
 
 
 .... 
 
 .01 
 
 Total 
 
 15.77 
 
 LO 57 
 
 8 91 
 
 U 94 
 
 LO 15 
 
 14.44 
 
 is. n 
 
 
 1.49 
 
 31. ■.' 
 
 1! . 
 
 55a, 
 
 
 '.;..>.:. 
 
 12517 
 
 15.53' 
 
 18.32 
 
 Average annual rainfall for fifteen years, 17.31 inches. 
 
 : " - " g g fe c3 : 2^« 
 
 3 .« I '" so 2 .5! § S "S ^ *> 
 
 {888 |: 
 
 l« 
 
 H«<!g>ih<!KO?lQ 
 
 u'ny Da 
 
 Reno i 
 s, conflni 
 
 •a n>. 
 
 igthe 
 
 one Ye: 
 
 valid could b 
 
 n!,y of which 
 
 ovalid to the 
 
 ivalid to the 
 
 out of dc 
 
 valid cm! 
 louse all 
 
 L>. Bradley, of Aui 
 
 us five or six hours, with safe 
 1 be out of doors an hour at' a 
 
 ay:::...:.::.:.v...:.i.:::.:.::::::: 
 
 ora, 111. 
 
 ty and comf 
 
 an Invalid. 
 
 time? in each day.. . 
 
 ... 310 
 
 .. 29 
 
 '. '. 10 
 .. 5 
 
 Comparative Mean Temperature of the Sir Coldes 
 Months. 
 
 So >iia Barbara 56.55 
 
 City of Mexico 50.03 Or .52 colder. 
 
 Lisbon, Portugal 54.70 or 1.85 colder. 
 
 San Remo, Italy, 53.80 or 2.75 colder. 
 
 Mentone, France 53.21 or 5.31 colder. 
 
 Nice, Italy 48.45 or 8.10 colder. 
 
 Comparative Relative Humidity- Saturation being lOO. 
 
 irbara f Philadelphia. 
 
 men- I Oakland, Cal. 
 
 j New Orleans. 
 
 March 
 
 April. 
 
 May. 
 
 June. 
 
 July. 
 
 Aug. 
 
 Sept. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 Dee. 
 
 Year 
 
 76 
 
 65 
 
 61 
 
 68 
 
 73 
 
 72 
 
 76 
 
 75 
 
 65 
 
 64 
 
 69.V 
 
 78 
 
 70',- 
 
 75* 
 
 78 
 
 77 
 
 81* 
 
 82 
 
 79J 
 
 80* 
 
 85 
 
 
 m 
 
 85 
 
 81 
 
 80 
 
 86 
 
 84 
 
 84 
 
 86 
 
 80 
 
 m 
 
 83* 
 
 83 
 
 83 
 
 84 
 
 81 
 
 82 
 
 87 
 
 85 
 
 80 
 
 84 
 
 82 
 
 83* 
 
I 
 
Goodall, Perkins & Co., 
 
 San Francisco, Cal. 
 
 Distances South of San Francisco : 
 
 San Francisco (82 
 
 7!4I'oint LODOS 174% 
 
 19 "Point Pedro lii'i " 
 
 26 Pillar Point 156 
 
 in Pigeon Point 138 
 
 51 Point New Year in 
 
 70 Santa Cruz 112 
 
 85 Monterey 897 
 
 ss Point Cypress 394 
 
 i"l Point sui' 
 
 180 Cape San Martin :{4l> 
 
 154 Piedras Blancaa 328 
 
 nil) San Simeon 822 
 
 166 Lefflngwells 816 
 
 180 Cayucos :!<>•-> 
 
 l sr, Mon-o 2!t: 
 
 193 Point P.ouchon 289 
 
 201 Port Harford 281 
 
 217 Poinl sal i.M;r, 
 
 236 Point Arguello 246 
 
 248 Point Concepcion 234 
 
 280 Gaviota 222 
 
 - \NTA BARBARA 194 
 
 296 Carpinteria 1st; 
 
 .'ill Ventura 1.1 
 
 3tl Hueneme nil 
 
 344 Point Duma 138 
 
 ::iil Santa Monica 121 
 
 :;77 Point Vincent 105 
 
 - .11 Pedro 95 
 
 396 Anaheim Si! 
 
 17.") Point Loniil 7 
 
 isj San Diego u 
 
 FARE : 
 
 San Francisco to Santa Barbara ; Cabin, $10; Steerage, $7.50 
 
 steamers Eureka and Los Angeles, sailing every five days, alternately, will 
 go as far South as Ventura, returning on schedule time for San Francisco, call- 
 ing at Gaviota, Porl Harford, San Simeon. Cayucoa. Monterey and Banta Cruz. 
 When sufficient freight is offered, freight steamers will call at Goleta and Car- 
 pinteria. Steamers Orizaba and Santa Rosa, Bailing every five days, alternate- 
 ly, will go as far south as san Diego and return on schedule lime. Freight 
 steamers carrying combustibles, etc., leave San Francisco every week for the 
 Southern Coast. For tickets and staterooms apply at the( >fflce /Telegraph Build- 
 ing, State St., Santa Barbara, Cal. Plan of Steamers at Agent's Office. 
 
 J. A. XORCKOSS. Ticket Ageujt. 
 
 JOHN P. STEARNS, Local Freight Ag't, 
 
 Stearns' Wharf. 
 
X 
 
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 H 
 
 q 
 
 z 
 
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 ■ r 
 
 lo 
 
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