SB 436 .W9 Copy 1 A581-1020-8m-L OFFICE OF STATE FORESTER UNDER CONTROL OF AGRICULTURAL AND MECHANICAL COLLEGE OF TEXAS W. B. BIZZELL. President E. O. SIECKE, State Forester TREE PLANTING IN TEXAS TOWNS AND CITIES BY LENTHALL WYMAN Assistant State Forester BULLETIN II OFFICE OF STATE FORESTER COLLEGE STATION. TEXAS Monoirra#lL I LiQRARY OF CONGRESS JAN111921 i 'DOCUMENTS DiVl SION . / 1 SQ4S6 SHADE TREES IN TEXAS TOWNS AND CITIES /\ INTRODUCTION Convenience, comfort, and attractiveness are three qualities which a home seeker requires before he purchases his residence; The same qualities are desired by the community in its home — the city. Many cities are making strenuous efforts to attract new enterprises and to get new citizens. They are improving their conveniences by paving streets, extending street lights, water systems, and sewerage. They are endeavoring to make their municipality more comfortable by water- ing streets, securing public benefits such as car lines and in many other ways. Most towns and cities are trying to instill a sense of civic pride in their residents through the efforts of Women's Clubs and Chambers of Commerce. The aim is to make the city more beautiful, to attract visitors and influence them to take up residence in the com- munity. In no other way can the comfort and attractiveness of a town be secured so cheaply, easily, and satisfactorily as by the extensive plant- ing of shade trees and shrubs. This is a form of city improvement which increases in value from the moment it is undertaken and con- tinues to increase in value for many years, whereas sidewalks, electric lights, and drinking fountains begin to deteriorate as soon as they are installed. Trees are especially needed in cities to purify the air and to amelio- rate the hot summer clays. They are a valuable asset to a man's prop- erty as is recognized by real estate men when they are boosting a new city addition. The first thing done in such cases is to lay off streets and put attractive sign posts on the corners, next trees are put out and if the promoters are ambitious perhaps an impressive gateway will be built to attract the eyes of prospective buyers. The street signs and gateway are advertisement, but the trees represent real value. They are planted because in no other way could the real estate man enhance the value of the property so much with so small an outlay. There is great need for more trees in every Texas community and in the hope that a planting movement will get under way with fresh impetus this bulletin is issued to serve as a guide for city planters. During the past fifteen to twenty years a great many species of trees have been planted in West Texas and the Panhandle. Although many of these were failures still many others proved to be suited to the soil and climate of the region. In order to get the benefit of the results of these plantings a six weeks' trip was made through the northwestern part of the State. The information obtained on the trip has been largely used in the preparation of tiiis bulletin. The Division of Forestry of the Texas Experiment Station is con- ducting tests on eleven sub-stations in various sections of the State for the purpose of introducing desirable new shade trees. A number of new species are being tried out and demonstrative planting work is being conducted, xllthough the experiments have been in progress for Excellent tree planting on the side parking of a street in Temple, Texas. The ground around the roots has been spaded up. Center parking planting, Pearl slreel. Wichita Falls, Texas. The value of shade trees has been appreciated. These six inch hackberries will soon make this an attractive location for new residences. •only four years yet several new species show promise of 1km ng adapted for planting work in the plains region. From time to time new trees are sure to be added to the list of those recommended in this bulletin as a result of the Experiment Station work as soon as the tests have been carried on for a long enough period to show conclusively which trees are best suited to each locality. SELECTION OF TREES Once the property owner has decided to set out trees the question arises : what species should he use ? Trees which do well in the Pan- handle will not prove desirable below the cap rock. Trees suitable for planting in wide parkings are poor varieties for narrow streets. In general, long lived trees should be selected. Trees should be chosen which do not sprout up from the roots or have disagreeable odors. Many otherwise admirable trees are untidy because of the quantities of fruit which fall and attract flies. Others lose their leaves early and should be avoided. The natural form should be such as not to necessitate con- stant pruning. Trees for narrow streets should have narrow columnar crowns, such as Lombardy poplar, while wide avenues are adapted to broad spreading species like the American elm and live oak. Cedar trees should not be planted close to apple trees or hawthorns because of the rust which has alternate stages on each of these trees. Black locust is undesirable in regions like Amarillo where the locust borer has become established. It is impossible in a short bulletin to go fully into the qualifications of each tree which might be used in Texas. The fol- lowing table will briefly show trees adapted or suited to varying con- ditions : TREES ADAPTED TO NARROW STREETS Lombardy poplar Black locust Mesquite Silver maple Hackberry Silver poplar Tree of heaven Carolina poplar Gingko Box elder TREES ADAPTED TO WIDE AVENUES Oaks Honey locust Willow Elm Magnolia Walnut Sycamore Pecan Camphor tree Sweet gum Ash Mulberry Basswood Cottonwood Eussian olive Tulip tree Eucalyptus Bois d'arc TREES EGR VERY SEVERE CITY CONDITIONS — NARROW PARKINGS, OIL, SMOKE, ETC. Tree of heaven Sycamore European plane tree (xingko SHORT-LIVED TREES Poplar Silver maple Hackberry Chinaberrv Box elder Black locust — G- Eucalyptus Mulberry Black locust Chinabern^ UNTIDY TREES Cottonwood Willow Gingko Tree of heaven, female Bois d'arCj female Japanese varnish TKEES SPROUTING BADLY FROM THE ROOTS Tree of heaven Cottonwood Black locust Poplar Willow UNDESIRABLE STREET TREES IN REGIONS WHERE OTHER VARIETIES THRIVE Cottonwood Carolina poplar Willow Tree of heaven Chinaberry Silver maple Box elder Evergreens T/?££PlANT/A/G /r'£G/OA/s Z Sas/ Texas 2r . Cenfra/ T'exos. ZZT S oo/jh Thxar-s TV. /^or^hony/e -7— Region where tree does well* II, III, IV, V I A 'Al 'III 'II „ > > > > 1 > > > > > > > . Undesirable features Brittle, liable to insect attack : i 0) >. c o > ■ i i C o ■o o M "o 3 m o o T3 e ■? 3 .^' O CO ja tn o o u u a CO C CO "5 M (U en £ o CJ ■6 1 c « o ^c >. 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'". > " "". - > " '1 '1 " " "^^ M 3 •O OB o5 U lu —12— DESCRirTION" OF TREES MAPLES — There are six iiiaplei? which grow naturally in Texas, only- two oi them heing desirable shade trees, however. These are the silver maple and the sugar maple. Another species, the ash-leaved maple, or box elder, has been successfully introduced in some parts of the state. SUGAR MAPLE (Acer saccharuni)~Th\s is a hardy tree with a compact oval crown; native in East Texas. It is an excellent tree in good soil with plenty of moisture, but will not do well under city con- ditions. Tn suburban situations and on lawns it has a distinct value. SHjVER maple or soft maple (Acer sacchari7mm)—A fast groM'ing tree with leaves dark green above and silvery beneath. The tree is rather short-lived with brittle branches. It is difficult to keep silver maple trained properly, and, furthermore, it is often injured by scales and borers. BOX ELDER (Acer negundo) — A tree similar in most characteris- tics to silver maple. The leaves are not silvery on the under side. The same advantages and drawbacks which apply to silver maple are also applicable to box elder. TREE OF HEAVEN OR PARADISE TREE (Ailanthus glandu- losa) — An Asiatic tree introduced to this country many years ago. It is a very rapid grower in its youth but soon becomes straggly and un- kempt. The leaves are ^compound and frond-like. Male and female flowers are borne on separate trees. While the seeds of the female plants are a nuisance they are less objectionable than the disagreeable odor of the staminate flowers. Its habit of sending up root suckers makes the tree of heaven rather undesirable, but under severe city conditions where smoke, dust and insufficient root space make it impossible to plant other trees the tree of heaven will survive and do fairlv well. HARDY CATALPA (Catalpa speciosa) — There are two catalpas native in the central states. However, common catalpa is a very un- satisfactory shade tree. It may be distinguished from hardy catalpa by the narrow pointed tuft of hair on the ends of the seeds, whereas hardy catalpa has a broad tuft. Catalpa is moderately fast growing and short-lived, quickly developing an uneven crown with bare branches crowned by bunches of large heart-shaped leaves. PAPER MULBERRY (Broussonnetia papyrifera) — A small Asiatic tree with cordate or three to five lobed leaves, hairy beneath. This tree is rather short-lived and inclined to be bushy, having a round head. It is liable to frost injury but is able to stand severe drouth and soil alkalinity. HACKBERRY (Celtis occidentalis) — The hackberry is a medium sized drouth-resistant tree with an oblong open crown. In Eastern Texas it is severely attacked by borers and leaf gall insects. The hack- berry is short-lived except under favorable soil and moisture conditions, and accordingly other trees should be given preference in general. It reaches its best development as a street tree in Central Texas. —13— SUGrARBEERY (Celtis mississippiensis) — A tree with habits sim- ilar to hackberry. The leaves are large and smoother and the tree reaches a larger size and greater age than the hackberry. Useful in Central and Southwestern Texas. DESERT WILLOW {CUlopsis Unearis)—A native of the West Texas draws. It stands drouths and much alkali. It is a small tree with showy flowers and long cylindrical seed pods. The leaves are linear. It is not regular in form, being similar to mesquite and willow in this regard. A desirable tree under severely dry conditions. ORAISTGE (Citnis sp.) — Various citrus fruit trees are used to ad- vantage as shade trees along the coast below Corpus Christi. Above Corpus Christi citrus trees are often seen but they do not reach the same development that they attain further south and are frequently injured by frost. They are medium sized to small trees with even rounded crown and dark green glossy leaves, being more useful for lawns than for street planting. They will not stand much frost. RUSSIAN OLIVE (Elaeagmts angustifoUa) — A handsome silvery- leaved medium sized tree. It. has a broad rounded head with a rather irregidar branching system similar to willow or mesquite. It stands drouth and alkali, showing remarkably fast growth. It needs some pruning to make a good shade tree for street purposes. BLUE CUM (Eucalyptus glohulus^ — Useful for planting along the gulf coast. Freezes back at Port Arthur. A tree reaching great size and age, of very- rapid growth, causing roots to ruin walks, sewerage systems and street pavements. Should be planted on wide avenues where it can have some protection, as it will not endure a temperature below 24 degrees Fahrenheit when young. It needs a humid climate with good soil for proper development. With shallow soil or insufficient soil moisture the growth of all eucalyptus trees is seriously retarded. Other varieties may prove successful in Texas but have not been tried out extensively as yet. RED GUM (E. rostrata) will stand a temper- ature of 13 degrees after it becomes established and shows some promise for the Southern coastal region. WHITE ASH (Fraxinus am ericana)— This ash is native in East Texas, growing in moist rich soils. The white ash is a large, well-formed tree, fairly clean except for the seeds and a good shade tree, more at home on lawns than on city streets, however. GREEN ASH (Fraxinus lanceolata) — This is one of the best shade trees which will grow in West Texas and the Panhandle. It is some- what smaller and shorter lived than white ash and stands a dry climate with alkali very well. It is fairly clean, does not break up and makes a shapely tree. MAIDENHAIR TREE OR GINGKO (Giiigko hiloha)— This is a Chinese tree introduced into the United States a number of years ago. Although it has not been planted extensively in Texas it has shown promise in the northeastern and central black land districts. It cannot be recommended strongly as yet because sufficient data on its adaptability is lackinsr. The pecan is the State tree. This one is a vigorous young specimen on the A. & M. College grounds. Except in Southwest Texas and the Panhandle the pecan is one of our best shade trees. The bois d'arc forms an excellant broad spreading crown. This tree in Denton, Texas, is growing in the region of its best development. • — 1 5— HONEY LOCUST {GUditsia inacanilios)—K tree with light feath- ery foliage bearing long seed pods Avhich are somewhat of a nuisance. It has a rounded head with stout branches and a strong root system. The thorns are objectionable, but a thomless variety {G. inermis) is offered for sale by most nursery dealers. It is a desirable tree for dry regions. PECAN (Hicoria pecaii) — The pecan has been designated the ojfficial state tree and as such it deserves a special mention. An excellent shade tree and a valuable nut tree, this species is an unusually desirable one to plant in the region of its best development. In the western part of the state it will thrive if given some cultivation and water. The pecan is rather hard to transplant and its growth is not rapid but it produces a unifonn oval crown, is fairly resistant to insects and disease, and is an abundant producer of excellent nuts. This last fea- ture is objectionable where trees are along highways, because of the break- age which results when nuts are clubbed off, a situation which frequently arises. HICKOEY {Hicoria spp.) — There are several varieties of hickorv which grow in East Texas, bitternut, shagbark, pignut, nutmeg and others. All of these would make fair shade trees were it not for their exceptionally slow growth. They require good moist soil and cannot compete with elm, ash^ sweet gum and many other faster growing trees. BLACK WALNUT (Juglans nigra) — The walnut is an excellent shade tree. It has a dense crown, is hardy, grows fairly fast, produces excellent nuts and the most valuable wood of any tree grown in Texas. It needs considerable cultivation and should be planted where it will receive a good supply of moisture. VARNISH TEEE, PEIUE OF INDIA {Koelreuteria paniculata) — Tliis tree is an exotic from Asia. It appears to stand alkali and low precipitation. It is grown in Kansas and Missouri and should do well in Western Texas. The varnish tree is rather short-lived and does not reach a great size but should be well suited to narrow streets. SWEET GUM, EED GUM {Liquidamher styraciflua)—The sweet gum is one of the best trees for shade in East Texas. It has a sym- metrical oval crown, star shaped leaves, and bears small spiny balls of seeds which are attractive in winter. It is a rather fast grower, long- lived and reaches a large size. It should be used in suburban situations since it is not adapted to severe city conditions. TULIP TEEE, YELLOW POPLAE {LiHodendron tulipifera) — The largest broad-leafed tree of the Atlantic coast. Although not native to Texas it makes an admirable shade tree where the soil is rich with good drainage. It has a round head with persistent cone-like fruits. It is hard to transplant and needs plenty of room. CHINABEEEY (Melia azedarach) — The chinaberry is an Asiatic tree which is much used for a shade tree throughout the state. It is a densely foliaged tree, with brittle wood, and irregular open crown and an abundance of white waxy fruits which make it an untidy tree for planting near sidewalks. It grows remarkably fast but quickly de- —16— teriorates, being especially susceptible to v/ind breakage and subsequent rot. It is a tree whicli should be used only where quick results are desired and then more permanent trees should be used also, to succeed it after a few years. UMBEELLA CHINABEERY, TEXAS UMBRELLA {Melia azeda- rach umbracuUfera) — This is an horticultural variety of the preceding species. It develops a flat umbrella-like crown, very dense and regular. It is a very handsome tree and a useful one for formal effects. How- ever, it has most of the defects that the chinaberry has ; brittle branches, much litter, and short period of attractiveness. WHITE MULBERRY (Morus a/&a)— Introduced from Europe. It ■does well on dry lands but prefers a moist soil. It is a small tree with a round head, fairly well adapted for street planting, but the berries are objectionable on side^'alks. This is the silk-worm tree of Europe. RED MULBERRY (Morus rubra) — A native tree somewhat larger than the above named species. The red mulberry is hardy and makes a good shade tree in dry regions. The fruii attracts flies and is a dis- agreeable feature. RUSSIAN" MULBERRY (Morus alba tartarica)— This tree, a native of Asia, is hardier than any of the other mulberries, and although it is a small bushy tree, still it has some advantages for the treeless portion of the state. At elevations, above 1800 feet it is apt to be killed back by late frost. It is not long-lived but is a fairly rapid grower and not a heavy bearer, which is an advantage for shade purposes. OLEANDER (Nerium oleander) — A large shrub or small tree with & wealth of flowers. It thrives along the coast where the winters are not too severe and does well under severe city conditions. SOUR GUM, TUPELO (jYyssa sylvaiica)—A tall tree with slender drooping branches. The foliage is dark green and lustrous, assuming attractive shades in the fall. It is a slow growing tree suited to wet situations. The fleshy fraits are a disadvantage. The COTTON GUM (Nyssa aquat^ca) is very similar, to the sour gum. HUISACHE (Acacia farnesinna) — A small thorny tree with fragrant yellow flowers. It makes a fair street tree in Southwestern Texas but is a' slow grower and has a somewhat irregular crown. SYCAMORE (Platanus occidentalis) — One of the largest and best shade trees over most of the State. It is a fast grower, develops a large round head of stout l)ranches, and although susceptible to leaf diseases, yet those may be easily controlled by spraying. It is not attacked by insects nor affected by adverse city conditions. Furthermore, although best adapted to wet situations it will thrive with very little moisture and care. ORIENTAL PLANE TREE (Platanus orientalis)—A European tree more enduring of city conditions, and possessing a more compact crown than sycamore, but otherwise similar to it. It is a better tree than sycamore for city purposes, not being affected by leaf blight. —17— COTTONWOOD (Populus deltoides) —A large native tree with trem- bling leaves, found around water courses. It has a shallow extensive root system, suckers badly, and produces considerable "cotton," all of which is objectionable in a street tree. It is not a desirable tree for city streets and should be used only in exceptional cases and where plenty of water is available. CAROLINA POPLAR (Populus eugenia.) — A more desirable tree than the preceding species since it grows faster and has a more regular crown. Useful for quick effects on narrow streets. LOMBARDY POPLAR (Populus nigra var. italica) — A tall, slen- der, rapid growing poplar used for formal planting on very narrow streets. It is -hort lived, shallow rooted, liable to send root suck- ers and objectionable because of the "cotton." EMPRESS TREE, PRIDE OF INDIA (Paulonia imperalis)—A small, fast growing, Asiatic species with purple flowers. It has large leaves of a tropical appearance and is poorly adapted to planting along streets. MESQUITE (Prosopis juUflora) — The mesquite is a fairly good shade tree in the southwestern part of the state. It is a rather slow growing tree with an irregular crown of light foliage. Its only advan- tage is that it is very hardy and needs very little care. POMEGRANATE (Piinica granaium) — A small bushy tree suited to the lower coastal region but not especially adapted to street planting. OAKS — The oaks, as a class, are excellent street trees. They are with a few exceptions strong, well formed, long-lived and not subject to insect attacks. WHITE OAK (Qiierms alba) — A rather slow growing, long-lived, round-headed tree, sturdy, resistant, and cleanly. It makes an ideal street tree where there is plenty of water. BLUE JACK OAK (Qvercus cinerea) and BLACK JACK OAK (Q. marylandica) —^]ow growing, short-lived trees of the sand hills, poorly suited for street purposes or lawn planting. SPANISH OAK (Quercus digitafa) — A tree of good form, long- lived, suited to medium or wide streets. It needs considerable moisture. TEXAS Ox\K (Quercus iexana)—^.^ similar to* the Spanish oak. OVERCUP OAK (Quercus h/rata), BURR OAK (Q. macrocarpa), COW OAK (Quercus michauxii), BLACK 0-AK (Quercus velutina), and YELLOW OAK (Q. mulilenliergii) are all desirable shade trees. RED OAK (Q. ruhra) SCARLET OAK (Q. coccinea) are also ex- cellent trees for Northeast Texas. WATER OAK (Q. 7iigra) and WILLOW OAK (Q. phellos) are fast growing excellent shade trees, but cannot do much on dry sandy land. POST OAK (Quercus minor) — This is a very slow growing but long- lived species. Much prized on lawns where it occurs naturally, but Desirable introduction fnm the Orient. Japanese varnish trees on tie Texas A. & M. College campus. The large leaves, light green, smooth bark and high heads make these good trees for streets or lawns. Poplars and cottonwoods are fast growing trees but are short-lived. This picture was taken on the Texas A. & M. College campus where the compact soil makes it difficult to grow large well-formed trees. —19— seldom planted because of the difficulties encountered in transplanting and raising young trees. BLxVCK LOCUST {Ro'binia psetufacacia) — A rapid growing, short- lived, light foliaged tree standing considerable drought and alkali. It makes a handsome shade tree and is much used in the Panhandle and West Texas. It has a number of drawbacks, however, since it suckers badly and creates considerable litter with the seed pods. Furthermore, in places it is being exterminated by the locust borer [Cyllene robinae). Where the borers are not present it is a valuable lawn and street tree. BLACK WILLOW (Salix nigra) — A fast growing tree useful near Avater. It is not long-lived, and is too susceptible to disease and insect attacks to make it a good shade tree. Moreover, it is untidy in appear- ance and the shallow roots are a nuisance, breaking up walks, killing out grass, and when planted too close to ditches the roots tend to fill them up. CHINESE TAIiLOW TEEE (Sapium sehiferum)— The tallow tree is an xlsiatic species which does well in Texas. It makes a medium rate of groAvth but does not reach any great size. It has leaves similar to cottomvood, making a rather attractive small tree for narrow streets. PAGODA TREE {Sophora japonica)— An Asiatic tree of medium size which makes a moderately fast groAvth and stands a dry climate. The pagoda tree is a good tree for narrow streets in West Texas. JAPANESE VARNISH TREE {Sterculia platanifolia)— The Jap- anese varnish tree is another Asiatic tree which has found favor in this country. It is a moderately fast growing tree with smooth, light green bark and large leaves, resembling those of the sycamore. It does not form a full crown, but the dense clusters of large leaves on the ends of the branches make a satisfactory shade. This appears to be a desirable shade tree, BALD CYPRESS {Taxodium distich urn) — The cypress is a tree best suited to swamps but occasionally excellent specimens are found along road sides and in towns. The cypress is best used where formal effects are desired. It is a rather slow growing tree but a long-lived one, not affected by insects to any extent. SALT CEDAR, TAMARISK {Tamarix spp)— There are several vari- eties of salt cedar all introduced from foreign countries. They are re- markably hardy and make a good growth. Most varieties are shrubs but with training some may assume tree form. They have light feathery fclinge similar to the cedars but the leaves are sheet in the winter time. Only valuable for street purposes where other trees do not grow, par- ticularly in tlie Trans-Pecos region. BASSWOOD, LINDEN {TiUa americnna)— The linden is a native of East Texas that makes a medium sized tree of good form. It is an excellent shade tree but requires considerable moisture. BOIS D'ARC, OSAGi; ORANGE {Toxylon pomiferum)— The bois d'are is a tough tree, making a slow to average rate of growth. It has dark o-reon lustrous leaves formino- a broad rounded crown. The fruit —20— is a nuisance but is only borne on pistillate or female trees. It is long- lived and although in youth it needs some pruning, yet it is a very- desirable shade tree for the drier parts of the state, reaching its best development, however, along the Eed Eiver. AMEEICAN ELM {Ulmus americana) — The American elm is prob- ably the best shade tree over a larger area than any other tree in this country. It is the pride of New England cities, and has proven its value in the Panhandle towns. It does best in rich moist loam but thrives remarkably well on dry alkali soils. It is not a fast grower but attains a great size and age — features desirable in shade trees. The elm develops a high spreading crown adapted to wide avenues. In some regions it is badly injured by scales, borers, and defoliating insects, but in Texas it is fairly free and not more susceptible than many less de- sirable, trees. In the southern part of the state it suffers from the heat and loses its foliage early in the season, but in the northern and eastern sections this defect is not noticeable. CEDAR ELM (Ulmus crassifolia) — A native tree with small leaves. It is smaller, and shorter lived than American elm. It becomes too bushy to be a good shade tree and should never be used where American elm can be obtained. SLIPPERY ELM {Ulmuf^ fidva)—T\\e slippery elm is inferior to the American elm, being smaller and shorter lived. It has a poorer form than Amei-iean elm but is a fair shade tree. EVERGREENS — As a general rule evergreens are not desirable street trees but make excellent ornamental trees and with proper grouping give good mass results. Nearly all evergreens are difficult to trans- plant and show relatively slower growth than deciduous trees. HIMALAYAN CEDAR (Cedrus deodora)— The Himalyan cedar is an Asiatic species which has light foliage resumbling that of the fir trees somewhat. It has the conical habit typical of most evergreens of the cedar, fir and spruce type. It grows rather rapidly and seems to stand a considerable amount of dry weather, making a very desirable conifer for this region. CAMPHOR TREE (Cinnamomnm campliora) — A Chinese broad- leaved evergreen of medium size which grows rather rapidly and makes an excellent street tree. This tree is the source of commercial camphor which is made by boiling chips of v.'ood. ITALIAN CYPRESS (Cupressus sempervirens) — This European tree is an excellent one for specimen planting but should be used spar- ingly. It is narrow.ly conical in form, thus furnishing little shade. The foliage is dark grcoji, the cones golden brown and very showy. ARIZONA CYPRESS (Cvpressvs arizonica) — A native of Arizona, this tree is a very handsome evergreen with silvery blue foliage. It makes a rather rapid growth and becomes a medium sized tree similar in shape to Italian r-ypress. It appears to stand drought i^retty well, and for color effect it takes the place filled l)y l)lue spruce and white fir in the north. —21— RED CEDAE (Junlperus virginiana) — The red cedar and its west- ern counterpart, SOUTHERN RED CEDAR (J. harhacLenses) , are both native in Texas. They are the commonest evergreens in Central and Western Texas. They make slow growth but are long-lived and will grow in very dry situations and do with very little attention. HOLTjY {Tlex opaca) — A- very handsome East Texas broad-leaf ever- green with thick glossy loaves and conspicuous red berries. This tree makes a slow growth but reaches a fair size. It is pyramidal in youth but has a more rounded crown in later life. It is a good street tree when given plenty of room but is liable to suffer from vandalism, MACNOLIA, BULL BAY {Magnolia g r an diflor a)— T\us is a tall native evergreen with showy flowers. It makes a pyramidal head with a good branching system and tough, thick, lustrous leaves. It is an excellent lawn tree and a good street tree. Other magnolias are also userl, principally U:\1BRELLA TREE {M. tripetala), CUCUMBER TREE (.¥. acuimnata) and SWEET BAY {M. glaum). BLUE SPRUCE (Picca parryana) — This is a very popular ornamen- tal t]-ee in the north I:)ut in Texas it makes very slow growth. Its blue green foliage and regular form, however, make it desirable in the Pan- handle and at high elevations. It needs plenty of water and care. In general, Arizona cypress and Himalayan cedar will fill its place in Texas. AUSTRTx4.1Sr PINE [Pinus austriaca) — A European evergreen which makes a alow growth but stands drought and heat fairly well. It is a long-lived tree and a large one at maturity. JACK PINE (Pinus divaricata) — A northern pine which grows rap- idly during its youth. It makes a medium sized tree which does well in dry sandy regions. LONGLEAF PINE (Pinus paIustri.9)—Tl\Q longleaf pine does well on very poor sandy soils. It is long-lived and becomes a large tree. Longleaf pine is a native of East Texas and has not been planted suc- cessfully west of the East Texas timber belt. It has an excellent form and is a good tree for the eastern part of the state. SIIORTLEAF PINE (Pinus ediinata,)— This native pine makes a satisfactory shade tree in East Texas and may be grown possibly west of Fort Worth and Waco, although very little planting of pines has been done in that region. AYESTERN YELLOW PINE (Pinus ponderosa)— This Rocky Moun- tain tree occurs naturally at higher elevations in Southwest Texas. It is a slow growing long-lived pine which needs a rather cool situation but thrives where the rainfall is very low. It does well at Amarillo. SCOTCH PINE (Pinus syl v (^ si ris)— The Scotch pine is a European tree which stands low precipitation and poor sandy soil. It is moder- ately fast growing nnd long-lived. It should prove to be a valuable tree for West Texas. LOBLOLLY PINE (Pinus iacda)—A native East Texas pine which extends farther west than its two associat(>s, longleaf and'shortleaf pine. —22— It is the fastest grower and has the hest form of the three trees. Its western range can probably be extended somewhat but very little ex- perimental planting with the pines has been done. LIVE OAK (Quercus virginiana) — A magnificent broad crowned evergreen oak, native of Central Texas. It is a slow grower but reaches innnense size and an old age. Because of its wide spreading crown it r-liould be given plenty of room. It makes a very dense shade with its dark green glossy leaves. APtBORVITAE (Thuja occidentalis)—k compact hardy tree with scale-like leaves and dry cones instead of the "berries" Avhicli are found on cedar. The twigs are flattened fan-like. The arborvitae grows mod- erately fast and makes a fair sized tree. It can be trimmed to any de- sired form. It appears to stand dry hot summers very well and makes a gotid hedge tree. CHINESE ARBOKVITAE {Thuja orientalis)—A Chinese tree sim- ilar to the above species but even hardier. Many nursery varieties of the arborvitae trees have been propagated, varying widely in size, form, and color. OLIVE (Olea euro pea) — A medium sized broadleaf evergreen much used along the gulf. Many Aarieties of palms and semi-tropical trees are being tried out along the coast and the exact limits of their ranges have not been de- iennined. A safe rule to follow is to plant what your neighbor has had success with. This is conservative, of course, and many other varieties may do as well or even better than those which are found in any particular locality. Nursery men are apt to be over-enthusiastic about new intro- ductions or to describe unusual results as what could commonly be ex- pected. It is well not to put too high hopes in unproven trees. On the other hand no one perfect shade tree has been discovered. Each has its good points and its poor ones. One tree is short-lived, another is hard to transplant, yet another is especially subject to insect attacks, and so it goes. The list given above might have been doubled or trebled with- out exhausting all the possibilities for planting in the state. There are 200 or more native trees in Texas, and the list of exotics which might be of value in some parts of the state is a long one. PLANNING LOCATION After selecting the proper variety of tree for the street in question the next point to be decided is the proper location of the trees and their ))roper spacing. The tendency is always to space trees too closely. This, of course, is due to the desire on the part of the planter to secure a maximum of shade in a minimum of time. This close spacing would be of minor importance — perhaps desirable from an aesthetic standpoint if the trees were thinned out as soon as they started to interfere. How- ever, once the trees get large enough to interfere with one another they have assumed a place in the owners affections which warps his good judg- ment. They seem to be too valuable to be cut out just now and are left for a few years longer. Tlie result is that by the time they are —23— remoTod the remaining trees have become crippled and have had their crown iymmeiry impaired. Parts of the crowns have been suppressed and the trees cannot recover even when 'the interfering trees are removed. Therefore, the safest thing to do is to space properly in the beginning. The distance apart Avill vary for different species and for the same species in different soils and climates. In East Texas and in rich bot- tom lands the trees will need ten to fifteen feet more room than in dry situations with poor soils. Trees suited to narrow streets should be spaced about thirty feet apart, those for medium width streets forty feet and those adapted to wide streets v/illneed fifty or more feet of space when they are mature. Normally trees are planted abreast on opposite sides of a street, but where wide spreading trees are planted along narrow streets it may be advisable to alternate them. On lawns, trees are best planted informally in groups rather than in rows. In no case should trees be placed at the corner of intersecting streets, since in such locations they are especially liable to injury by pedestrians or by teams and automobiles if there are no curbings. Furthermore, when the trees are young they will obstruct the view of vehicles and interfere with traffic. Trees should be uniformly spaced in regular rows for symmetrical results. They should be so placed that they will not interfere with wires, otherwise they will be mutilated by linemen, or to avoid this it will be necessary to cut the tops back below the wire. On lawns and private grounds a row of trees or a group may be needed to screen an outbuilding or to give a sense of privacy to the home. In general, there will he no formal planting in rows or along geometrical lines. ■ Informal grouping to simulate the natural occurrence of trees in parks should be done. Trees in cities are living under unnatural conditions. A deficiency in moisture and sim light, combined with excessive smoke and dust, make it imperative that the soil conditions be as favorable as possible. A hole four feet square and three feet deep should be dug. Ordinarily sterile subsoil is thrown up to form parkings when streets are built. Therefore good top soil should be secured to fill in with. If the park- ing space is narrow or tlie rainfall insufficient, pipes or tiles should be secured for sub-irrigating. The best time for planting trees is between November and March. It is merely necessary that the tree be dormant and the ground un- frozen. February is the planting month for the whole state and the date for Arbor Day has been Avell chosen — February 22. Ideal condi- tions prevail when the day is cool and cloudy right after a rain while the ground is moist. The feeding roots are very tender, being easily dried out and killed, especially the roots of evergreens. In order to avoid this, roots ought to be ^'puddled"; that is, they should be coated with thick mud before being taken to the planting site. They should be kept covered and protected from sun and wind as much as possible, since an exposure of five minutes is fatal to pine seedlings, and other trees will stand very little more. After all preparations for planting have been made a cone of earth should be piled in the middle of the hole and the tree set down so that it will be as deep in its new situation as it was before transplanting. The roots should then be spread out in a more or less natural position Tf?£E PLANT/NG SP£rc/ r/ Cy^ T/o/vs, Se/ec / /o ng- //v'ed^ h arQ(yj t^/'e//- shapec/ Trees cyc/cypf^cy to yoor so// anc/ c//ma/£' . Comu/fSfo/e /^ore^/er. TWo-Znch frees i/y/f/? /orgs f/brous roo^S ^4- •jy^^netr/ca/ Prune hranc/ie^ /o ch ecU eya^ oraT/ o rj. /.oi^esf /srarjc/} 7~6 :^€/. c/i>o ye payen?en/. l^/re g(-^arc^ ^ /r/ch /nes/i 6 fee 7 /j 'gn. /jose- af tot> -to /oreyenr eho/f'na . 77 ec/ fo sA//re h^/'/A rac^^o/'f ro/:^ or /pose. Terj-foot fS /r)c/) ss/o/KejS // /ft S'^ocnc/. Jrr/ga^/ng - pipe - //o/c J fee/ c/eep f,//earc/. /. oajc mu/e/). /^d// c o/?e ,h or A ta j-»/// fy/y an p f ,,/ /<» iface ^^u/fioi cfofiJies COusr _p//^//t^^ a^y c/fcA Is/, "fo r/^aur s/tj hi/y convex , AfeuTi n or*-o tfe^ /^t ^0(tl a/- >A 'y •^uy/acf '^00 co*i^'eji. —29- CEMENT PAIXT I'ortlaiid cemeiil, skimmed milk. Add enough milk to reduce the cement to the consistency of thick paint. Either of these two applications should be painted on the trunk and larger branches as far up as the insects are likely to attack, usually ten or twelve feet. If the bark is rough and scaly it should be smoothed off first. Cement paint is good for one whole season, but whitewasli should be applied t^ace during the growing season for best results. It is very difficult to eliminate borers once they have obtained a foot- hold. The individual boring holes must be probed with wires or sat- urated with carbon bisulphide (high life) squirted in with an oil can, after which the hole must 1)e plugged up with clay, putty, or some other handy material. The third alternative is the obvious one of gouging out the holes until the worm is found and killed. Wood borers are found boring through the heart and sap wood of healthy, dead, and dying trees. They are only slightly less dangerous than bark beetles, causing the death of many large veteran trees and often weakening the limbs of others so much that they are readily broken off in a heavy wind. They may be controlled to some extent by the same means that are used against bark borers, mentioned above. Defoliaiing insecis are easy to control but if left unmolested the strip- ping of the leaves will seriously weaken the tree. Three successive de- foliations will usually kill a deciduous tree, while one complete defolia- tion may kill coniferous evergreens,' which are not very resistant to the attacks of these insects. It is sometimes practical to creosote egg-clusters or to collect the nests and bum them, but the usual way to attack this class of insects is to spray the foliage on which it feeds with arsenate of lead, which can be procured in any town. Two and one-half pounds of poison to forty gallons of water is the strength commonly used. Red spiders are best controlled by lime-sulphur dust, which is a powder composed of equal parts of flowers of sulphur and dehydrated lime. Banding is occasionally useful, to prevent insects from crawling up trees. Such insects as the bag-worm, the female of which cannot fly, may thus be prevented from gaining access to trees already free from their attacks. ■nA\TDINd MIXTURE Eesin 16 pounds, castor oil 1 gallon. Heat until the resin is melted, then dip ropes in the mixture. The ropes, covered with the banding compound, should then be tied around the trees about four or five feet above the ground and renewed every ten days or oftener if the mixture begins to dry and harden. FUXGI The next most important cause of injury to shade trees is fungus or rot. Fungus diseases come under six heads: heart rot, sap rot, root rot, canker, bark diseases, and leaf blight. Hern-t rot commonly occurs in old trees, which may be so badly affected that the heart wood is entirely disintegrated, leaving the hol- low tree to be supported by the outer shell of bark and sap wood. Since the heart wood of the tree is dead wood its onlv function can be to —30— brace and support it. Accordingly the removal of the heart wood does not necessarily result in the death of the tree. Death in such cases may result from windbreak. Heart rot gains access to a tree through branch stubs, through roots, or through deep scars and injuries. It often gets a start in street trees through the dying back of a stub in the top caused by poor pruning at the time of planting and subsequent neglect. It is common practice to top back forest grown trees to a point where the main stem is from one inch to three inches in diameter. The new growth is apt to start several inches below the cut, thus allowing the end to die and become infected. Such dead ends should be removed and the scar painted. Sap rots usually result from the spread of heart rots or occiir in dying trees. They are serious since the function of the sap wood is to serve as a transporting mediumi for the food material from which the wood cells are built. By killing out this layer the circulation of sap is in- terfered with and if the rot extends completely around the tree the host may be killed. Heart and sap rots are prevented by careful pruning, followed by covering the wounds with paint, tar, or creosote. All insect o-alleries serve as a point of access for fungus spores. Such holes sliould be drained and painted. There are three methods of treatment for cavities and diseased places in shade trees. They are called the open cavity, cement filling, and asphalt filling treatments. At the present time the tendency is to do as much open treatment as possible. Excavating Rots. In repairing a tree affected by rot the first step is to bore in at several places to locate the exact extent of the rot. It may be feasible to excavate from one hole entrance or again two or more may be needed. In cutting out decayed wood it is essential that all the rot be removed. The so-called ''rots" often extend several inches into apparently sound healthy wood. It iis frequently impos- sible to tell whether the decayed portion has been entirely cut out, but if the cavity is left open a subsequent examination will clear up all doubts. Excavating Tools. A mallet, a half round gouge, and two or three chisels of various sizes are handy tools for this work. Large cavities may be opened to advantage with hand axes. After all the decayed part has been removed the bottom of the cavity should be provided with drain- age to prevent water from standing there. It is not essential to have the walls absolutely smooth, but they should not have large crevices that may harbor insects. The mouth of the cavity should be made regular, and where possible the shape should be oval, tapering toward the top and bottom. This type of hole heals over quickest, while square ends often result in dead areas adjoining the hole due to the failure of the sap to properly nourish them. Painting. There are several good covering substances on the market for painting over wounds. The creosote compounds penetrate well and act as antiseptics. Tar is good, and roofing or asphalt paints are very satisfactory. Ordinary house paint is better than nothing, but is apt to crack, affording an opening for moisture and disease spores. Car- bolineum is an excellent antiseptic paint. Sheet Metal. A modification of the open cavity treatment is the use of sheet metal nailed across the cavity opening. In such cases the bark —31— and the cambium layer, which is the growing part of the tree just below the bark, should be cut back to form a shelf to which the metal is nailed. It is necessary to have the metal shaped to the opening and care mast be taken that it does not overlap the cambium or bark anywhere since then the new wood would work in under and pry it up instead of closing in over it. The open cavity treatment or this modification of it is use- ful for very large cavities and where stress or bending might cause asphalt or concrete to crack. Asphalt Filling. The asphalt method is used for openings where little bending occurs or for relatively small holes. The cavity is cleaned out and prepared just as for the open treatment. The mixture used is about one part of asphalt (heated) to six parts of sand or sawdust. This mix- ture is packed in with a trowel behind a metal front. Concrete Filling. The concrete method of filling cavities is restricted to small holes or ones at the base of the tree where there will not be much bending. The preliminary steps are identical with those under- taken before using asphalt. After the walls of the cavity are painted with tar or earbolineum, nails or iron braces are fastened to them to help retain the concrete. It is necessary to have the cavity wedge- shaped, smaller at the mouth than at the back in order to retain the oement properly. (See diagram., page 28.) The filler is one part of Portland cement to three parts of coarse sand or gravel. If the dry method is used then only enough water is added to make the mixture capable of being molded. It must then be packed in solidly and tamped. If the wet method is used a sack or cloth must be nailed across the mouth of the cavity and the soft concrete filled in behind it. Before the cement has entirely hardened the sack should be taken off and the edges of the cement trimmed back below the cambium. The cement must not be allowed to bulge at the mouth. It should be flat or very slightly convex if the wood is to heal over it properly. A waterproofing concrete paint should be used to exclude moisture from the filler. Root rots are caused by disease organisms which spread through the soil and are very difficult to combat. The common cotton root rot and others closely allied may cause large trees to wilt and die within a few hours. There seems to be no practical remedy for such diseases and little or no forewarning that they are present and threaten to do dam- age. Where a tree has been killed by root rot no other tree should be planted in that location since the disease is in the soil and new trees will almost certainly be attacked. Barh Diseases. Canker and bark diseases are common on poplar and many other trees. All diseased bark and wood should be cut out and the wound treated with creosote. Blight. Leaf blight and leaf spot diseases are caused by mildews, and may be controlled by spraying with a good fungicide like Bordeaux mix- ture or lime-sulphur wash. (See page 37.) Bordeaux mixture may be purchased ready made but cannot be made up at home to good advan- tage owing to the rather expensive apparatus needed for preparing it. Eaking and burning all fallen leaves will greatly assist in the control of diseases affecting the foliage. WEATHEE INJURY Dry weather injury can be minimized by frequent cultivation and occasional thorough irrigations, preferably through pipes or tiles sunk around the roots of the trees. —32— Sun scald oause.s the bark on the south and west sides of young, thin- barked trees to die and crack off. This may be avoided by wrapping burlap around the trunk or by using wood veneer guards. Where this injury has occurred the loose bark should be removed and the wound painted. Wind and snow often cause large limbs to split off. Such injuries should be smoothed over and painted. Care should be taken that no place is left in which water can accunmlate. Splits may be prevented by bracing any limbs which have weak crotches. The best way is to use eye bolts through tlie limbs two to six feet above the crotch and connect them with a strong wire cable. In using bolts, the hole where the head and washer come sliould l)e counter sunk below the cambium and later filled with asphalt. MISCELLAN^EOUS INJURIES Street trees are very apt to be injured by horses. Where this danger exists the tree should be protected by iron or wooden guards made large enough to avoid strangling the tree. Frequent examinations are neces- sary to insure that the tree is not being girdled by the guard. Where parking spaces are small or where the ground may be tramped down solidly there is danger that there will be insufficient soil moisture and a deficiency of air for the roots. The use of grills or gratings around the base of these trees will provide better ventilation and will permit more moisture to reach the roots. Escaping gas, ice cream salt, smoke, grade changing, and many other causes are responsible for tree sickness in cities. When in doubt write to the State Forester for advice. THE BEST TREES FOR TEXAS (See map, page 6.) For East Texas the best trees for shade are American elm, water oak, willow oak, burr oak, sycamore, sweet gum, pecan, and white ash. Only slightly less valuable are sugar maple, black walnut, tulip tree, overcup oak, Spanish oak, Texan oak, and haekberry. Of the evergreens the best are live oak, holly, magnolia, longleaf pine, shortleaf pine, loblolly pine, and Himalayan cedar. In Central Texas the best trees are haekberry, American elm, syca- more, water oak, willow oak, burr oak, Texan oak, and pecan. Next in importance come green ash, white ash, overcup oak, Spanish oak, box elder, black walnut and mulberry. Of the evergreens red cedar, Hima- layan cedar, Arizona and Italian cypress, loblolly pine, and live oalc are best. In South Texas the most satisfactory shade trees are hackberr}% black walnut, mulberry, and pecan. Of the other trees which grow there, box elder, silver maple, pomegranate, yucca, palmetto, loquat, and mesquite are fair. Olive, camphor, live oak, red cedar, and Arizona cypress are the best of the evergreens. Southwest Texas has a climate and soil not adapted to tree growing. Irrigation is needed in any event. With some attention and occasional waterings honey locust, black locust, cottonwood, silver poplar, and salt —33— cedar do well. Umbrella china, mulberry, silver maple, box elder and Eussian olive rank next in value. Of the evergreens red cedar, Scotch pine and Arizona cypress grow well. It is probable that others will be found suited once they have been tested. In the Panhandle the most desirable trees are black locust, honey locust, American elm, green ash, and silver maple. Closely following this group come box elder, Eussian olive, silver poplar, hois d'arc, and hackbetry. Scotch pine, jack pine, western yellow pine, red cedar, Him- alayan cedar, and Arizona cypress do well among the evergreens. Below the caprock umbrella china, catalpa, and paper mulberr}' make good shade trees. Almost as important as climate in determining tree distribution is soil types. The tables on pages 7 to 11 give more specifically the situa- tions and localities in which the several species will grow and make satisfactory trees. THE CITY FORESTER Even' large Texas city should have a City Forester to handle the selecting, procuring, planting, cultivating, spraying, trimming, and pre- serving or removiaig of all trees in the city streets. The smaller cities and towns may handle this work througli some civic organization or tree club composed of enthusiastic interested ])arties. The City Forester and the board under which he works should be free from political influences. This is particularly essential because of the character of the work which deals largely in the future. Eesults are not always apparent in a year's time and the City Forester should be protected from political whims until he can carry out his policies. He should be appointed by the board of city development or park board and should work under its direction. Since a City Forester must deal with people^ must be a good talker and a good mixer, must know trees, insects and diseases and how to treat them, must know the principles of landscaping and must be versed in repair work, it is apparent that he must be trained for the work. He should have the ability to or- ganize community clubs, to address schools, and to prepare articles for the press. Several cities have already called on the State Forester for assistance in securing a capable, trained, technical man, and he will be glad to put other cities in touch with men. All tree work should be regulated by the City Forester and suitable ordinances should be passed giving him authority to properly handle the work and enforce the regulations. The following regulations may serve as a guide : 1. The board of (insert name) shall have full power and authority over all trees planted and to be planted in any of the streets or public places of the city, including the right to plant new trees and to care for the same, and to trim, spray and otherwise care for such trees, and to remove trees, living or dead. 2. The board of (inseri, name) is authorized to appoint a City For- ester and such other employes and assistants as may be necessary, and to prescribe and define their respective duties and to fix the amount of their compensation. Such Forester shall be an expert, trained in the care and culture of trees. 3. The board of (insert name) shall recommend to the (insert iiame of civic legislative body) from time to time, ordinances to be enacted —34— by the said (insert name of civic legislative body) for the planting, care and protection of trees in the streets and public places of the city; but no such ordinance not recommended by the said board shall be enacted by the (insert name of civic legislative body). Nor shall any ordinance enacted pursuant hereto be altered or repealed without the recommendation of said board. 4. The (insert name of civic legislative body) shall, every year, grant to the board of (insert name) such sum of money as it shall re- quire and as to the said (insert name of civic legislative body) shall appear reasonable and just, for the planting, maintaining and caring for the trees of the city, for purchasing or raising new trees, and for other expenses contemplated by Sections 1, 2, 3 and 4 of this act. 5. No person shall, without the written permit of the board of (in- sert name) cut, remove, plant, break or injure any tree, plant or shrub in any of the streets or public places in the city of (insert name). Nor shall any person injure, misuse, or remove any device placed and intended to protect any tree, plant or shrub in any part of the streets or public places of the city of (insert name). Nor shall any person fasten a horse to any tree, plant or shrub, or to any device intended to protect the same, or place a post for the hitching of horses within five feet of any tree, plant or shrub in any of the streets or public places of the city of (insert name). 6. No building material or any other material of any description shall be piled up against any street tree unless said tree is first sufli- ciently' protected by a proper guard to prevent possible injury, and all instructions issued for that purpose by the board of (insert name) must be promptly complied with by the owner. 7. The board of (insert name) shall have. power to remove any wire conduit or other thing that bums, cuts or chafes any part of any tree, whether trunk, root or branch, in any street or public place, in case the owner of the wire shall fail after three days' written notice to take ade- quate steps to prevent further injury. 8. No paving of any description shall be laid or maintained by anyone between the sidewalk and the curb which shall cut off the air and water from any tree. Local conditions will dictate what other ordinances will be needed in order to adequately protect the city trees. For the convenience of persons who desire to secure trees the follow- ing list of nurserymen is given. This list includes those dealers who grow shade trees and general nursery stock. There are also a number of out-of-state nurserymen who do business in Texas. TEXAS NURSERY DEALERS Name of Firm. Postofflce. Adams, II . J Cibolo Allen, J. H Friendswood Allen Bros Pottsboro Alleshouse, M. L Arcadia Alvin Japanese Nursery Alvin Alvin Plant Farm " Alvin Arlington Nursery Arlington Austin Nursery Co ... Austin Avlesworth, D! C Plainview —35— Name of Firm. Postofflce. Baker Bros. Co._ Fort Worth Barnes, H. W Pittsburg Barthlome, A Corpus Christi Birdsall, A. D Almeda Black's Nursery ■. . Mt. Pleasant Bonham Nursery Bonham Brown Nursery and Floral Co Dallas Bruce, A. L. /. Clarendon CaldT^'ell, W. H Corpus Christi Campbell, L. I Dallas Carr, T. F Bay City Cluck, J. W., & Son "Dallas Clyde Nursery Co Clyde Cole, Eobert F Dallas Comal Springs Nurserv' New Braunfels Cooke County Nursery Gainesville Cowell, L Fort Worth Cmtchfield. Wm Vernon Daingerfield Nursery Daingertield Dallas Shade and Fruit Tree Co "Dallas Delling, Otto •. Dallas Denny. J. W Smithfield Draper, A. N McAllen DiTimm Seed & Floral Co Fort Worth Dubbs, C. W Clarendon Eagle Lake Nursery Eagle Lake Ecles, J. D ■ ; Vidor Edgewood Nursery . . . . ; Dickinson El Canipo Nurser}^ El Campo Erath County Nurserv^ Dublin Euless Nurseries Arlington Evergreen Cemetery ' El Paso> Evergreen Nursery Hawkins Excelsior Nurser}- Palacios Figge, 0. C Beaumont Fitzgerald, J. E Stephenville Ford, Sam P Tyler Forest Nursery Fort Worth Foster Nurseries Denton Prankston Nursery Frankston Goldthwaite Nursery Goldthwaite Griffing Nurseries Port Arthur Griffing's Delta Nursery San Benito Hannah, H. 0., & Son Sherman Harris, A. J., & Son Grand Saline Hart's McAllen Nursery McAllen Henderson Nursery Athens Hendi-ix & Glass Farmersville Hereford Nurser\' Co Hereford Herrle, J. J. A Houston Hicks & Cuh-er Mt. Pleasant —36— Name of Firm. Postoffice. Hillsboro NiTrsery Co _ Hillsboro Hoffman, R. H Denton Holbert, Cha?;. E Arcadia Holbert, Mrs. E. W Arcadia Howard's Montopolis Nursery Austin Iron Ore Nursery Denisqn Johnson Orchard & Nursery Co Dallas Johnson. Bart Comanche Kaufman Countv Nursery Terrell Kearney, S. W San Antonio Kerr, jno. S Sherman Kezer, H. A El Paso Kieswetter, A. H Houston Kirby, S. B Bullard Kirtly, C. C Cameron Lampasas Nursery Co Lampasas Lang Eloral & Nursery Co , Dallas Laredo Nurser}' Co Laredo Lev/is, S. Lufkin Lloyd, L. J Nursery MacDaniel, W. F San Augustine McGinney Nursery Co Tyler McKee Nurseries Mt. Selman MeKee," The J. E., Nursery Co Texarkana McKee, S. R., Nurseries Jacksonville McKinney Nursery Co Dallas Martin, W. M Handley Mary Austin Nurser}' Alta Loma Misrnon. E Navasota Moore Nursery Co Tyler Moss Bros Hico Mosty, L. A., & Son Center Point Munson Nurseries Denison Myrtle Springs Nursery Co Wills Point Northeast Texas Nursery Pittsburg Oak Grove Nursery .Denison Palacios Nurserv Co Palacios Pearfield Nursery New Ulm Pilot Point Dewberry Farm Pilot Point Pine Springs Nursery Tyler Plainview Nursen^ Co Plainview Planters Nursery " Denton Pomeroy. Eltweed Donna Potter Floral Co El Paso Riverside Nursery- Fort, Worth Rockdale Nursery Rockdale Rosedale Nursery Brenham Rosedale Nurseries El Paso Rose Hill Nursery Co Texarkana Rusk County Nursery Henderson Saibara. K \ Webster —37— Name of Firm. PostoflBce. Saltillo Nursery Co Saltillo Samford, A. M Tyler San Angelo Nursery Co San Angelo San Benito Nursery Co San Benito Siuton Nurseries Sinton Shamburger Nursery Tyler Shary, John H Mission Shell, C. L Georgetown Smith County Nursery Co Tyler Stephenson, H. F Brownsville Steinbriug, S. W ' New Braunf els Stockwell Nursery Alvin Stone, Mrs. E. E Dickinson Sulphur Springs Nursery Sulphur Springs Teas Nursery Co Houston Terrell Nursery Co Terrell Texas Nursery Co Sherman Texas Eose Garden Eockdale Thomas, J. E Atlanta Thompson, J. M WacO' Verhalen, Geo. F Scottsville Volz, Chas Mission Waco-Tyler Nursery Co Waco Waxabachie Nursery Co Waxahachie Wahrli, Robert . . .' Dallas Western Home Nursery Weatherford -West Tyler Nursery. /. Tyler Whall, Walter ^. San Antonio Wichita Floral & Nursery Co Wichita Falls Wright Nursery & Floral Co El Paso Wright, A. P. '. Mission Russian mulberry in West Texas and the Panhandle makes a fast growth and is very hardy as well. The silvery foliage makes this a very desirable ornamental shade tree. This tree is in AmariUo, Texas. Young green ash in the foreground and Carolina poplars behind in the forest tree nursery at the Denton Experiment Station. Some scores of new trees are being tried out each year at these stations to determine those suited to Texas conditions. LIST OF BULLETINS ISSUED BY THE STATE FORESTER Copies may be secured free of charge from the State Forester, Col- lege Station, Texas. Bulletin 1. Grass and Woodland Trees. (Supply exhausted.) Bulletin 2. Tree Planting Needed in Texas. Bulletin 3. General Survey of Texas Woodlands, Including a Study of the Commercial Possibilities of Mesquite. Bulletin 4. First Annual Eeport of the State Forester. (Supply ex- hausted.) Bulletin 5. Forest Eesources of Eastern Texas. Bulletin 6. Forest Fire Prevention in Co-operation with the Federal Government. (Supply exhausted, replaced by bulletin No. 9.) Bulletin 7. Farm Forestry. (Extension bulletin.) Bulletin 8. Second Annual Report of the State Forester. Bulletin 9. Forest Fire Prevention in East Texas. Bulletin 10. Farm Forestry in the Shortleaf Pine Section of East Texas. Bulletin 11. Shade Trees in Texas Towns and Cities. Bulletin 12. Forestry Questions and Answers. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 000 926 006 7 1. TREES INCREASE THE VALUE OF YOUR PROPERTY. 2. TREES. PROTECT YOUR HOME AND YOUR STREETS FROM THE HEAT OF THE SUN. 3. TREES PROTECT YOU FROM THE COLD WINDS OF WINTER. 4. TREES GIVE OFF OXYGEN, THUS PURI- EYING THE AIR. 5. TREES AFFORD AN ATTRACTIVE SET- TING FOR YOUR HOME. 6. TREES MAKE YOUR CITY MORE LIVE- ABLE AND LOVEABLE. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS iHi- 000 926 006 7