class TSuy o 
 
 Book u^ 
 
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 COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 
 
PRACTICAL 
 
 ELECTRO - PLATING 
 
 A guide for the electroplate*, giving complete 
 
 instructions for the arrangement of the shop, 
 
 the installation of the plant, polishing, 
 
 plating, buffing, and lacquering. 
 
 WITH HO ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 BY 
 
 W, L. D, BEDELL 
 
 1909 
 
•\ 
 
 -&> 
 
 LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
 Two Copies Recerved • 
 
 FEB 1 1909 ; 
 
 . Copyrl^nt Entry _ 
 0LA8S CX. XXc, No. 
 
 1-2-^55 1 
 copy a. 
 
 & 
 
 Copyrighted, 1908, 
 
 BY 
 
 W. L. D. Bedell 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 It has been the author's aim in compiling this work to 
 instruct the operator, in a. practical manner, in the art of 
 electro-plating and metal finishing. 
 
 The work illustrates and describes the necessary arti- 
 cles, states what they are used for, and how to use them. 
 
 The work in arrangement and classification differs 
 entirely from any work previously published on this sub- 
 ject. It first describes the general shop arrangement, 
 then, beginning with the installation of the dynamo, goes 
 through the complete electrical equipment in the order in 
 which it should be set up and connected, following with 
 other necessary equipment and information in regular 
 order. This will be found of particular advantage to the 
 beginner. 
 
 Taking in the electro-deposition of the standard com- 
 mercial metals, formulae are given for making and oper- 
 ating various plating solutions, dips, and pickles, as well 
 as the manner in which they should be maintained and 
 renewed. 
 
 3 
 
4 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The information given has been carefully obtained 
 from reliable experts of long and varied experience. 
 
 Many thanks for valuable information on the subject 
 are especially due the following: John T. Daniels, E.E., 
 and Willis R. King, Electro-plating Expert. 
 
 The Author. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Section I. — A Complete Electro-plating Plant, 
 
 Parti. — The Plating Room, 
 
 Part 2. — Electrical Equipment, 
 
 Part 3. — Scouring and Cleaning Equipment, 
 
 Part 4. — Solutions, Anodes, Cleaning Methods, and 
 
 General Information, 
 
 Section* II. — Polishing Plant, Machinery, Wheels, and 
 
 Polishing Compositions, 
 Section III. — Polishing Instructions, Tumbling Barrel 
 
 Polishing, . 
 Section IV. — Preparation of Work before Plating, 
 Section V. — Plating Solutions and Various Finishes 
 
 Cold Galvanizing, 
 Section VI. — Dips and Cleaners, 
 
 Dips, ..... 
 
 Cleaners, .... 
 
 Pickles, .... 
 
 Stripping Solutions, 
 Section VII. — Mechanical Electro-platin 
 
 Electro-plating Apparatus, . 
 
 Centrifugal Dryer, 
 Section VIII. — Burnishing, 
 Section IX. — Lacquers and Lacquering, 
 Section X. — Batteries and Battery Information. 
 Section XI. — Three Systems of Current Distribution, 
 
 The Three-wire System of Current Distribution 
 Section XII. — Management of a Modern Plating Dynamo, 
 Section XIII. — Tables and General Information, 
 
 Pages 
 II 
 I I 
 17 
 
 5 1 
 
 56 
 69 
 
 93 
 107 
 
 113 
 146 
 
 155 
 155 
 !59 
 163 
 166 
 
 173 
 
 175 
 181 
 
 i83 
 
 187 
 
 195 
 203 
 209 
 215 
 229 
 
ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Electro-plating. — Electro-plating- is the art or process 
 of depositing or plating metals with an electrolyte 
 medium, by the aid of an electrical current ; the combi- 
 nation of the two causing decomposition of one element 
 which is deposited on the other. 
 
 Common Electrical Symbols and Terms, with their 
 Meaning. 
 
 D. C. Direct current. The only current used 
 
 for electro-plating purposes. 
 
 V . Volts, represent the current pressure or 
 
 force. 
 
 A. Amperes, represent the volume or quan- 
 
 tity of current. 
 
 W. Watts = V. X A. 
 
 K. IV. Kilowatt = W. -?- iooo. 
 
 E. M. F . Electro-motive force or voltage. 
 
 P. or + Positive pole or line conducting current 
 
 from dynamo. 
 N. or — Negative pole or line conducting return 
 
 current to dynamo. 
 H. P. Horse power ; i H. P. = 746 watts. 
 
 R. P. M. Revolutions per minute. 
 
 6 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Anode. 
 
 Cathode. 
 
 Generator. 
 
 Motor. 
 
 Ammeter. 
 
 Circuit. 
 Ground. 
 
 Neutral. 
 
 Potential. 
 Rheostat. 
 Short circuit. 
 
 Voltmeter. 
 
 Source of supply from which the metal- 
 lic deposit is obtained. 
 
 The . article to be plated or deposited 
 upon. 
 
 A machine that converts mechanical into 
 electrical energy. 
 
 A machine that converts electrical into 
 mechanical energy. 
 
 An instrument for indicating- the volume 
 or quantity of current. 
 
 The path in which the current flows. 
 
 The connection of any part of an elec- 
 trical current with the earth, either by 
 fault or intent. A ground is used in 
 some circuits for economy, but is to be 
 avoided in electro-plating circuits. 
 
 A conductor used for convenience and 
 economy through which the current 
 may flow in either direction. 
 
 The difference of electrical conditions. 
 
 A current regulator. 
 
 A path of little or no resistance, connect- 
 ing positive and negative conductors. 
 
 An instrument for indicating the current 
 pressure or force. 
 
LIST OF ARTICLES COMPRISING A 
 COMPLETE ELECTRO-PLATING PLANT. 
 
 PLATING PLANT. 
 
 Dynamo. 
 
 Rheostat for field regulation. 
 
 Countershaft. 
 
 Copper wire for main line. 
 
 Connections for main line. 
 
 Tanks for solution. 
 
 Brass rods for tanks. 
 
 Rod connections for tanks. 
 
 Connecting wire for tanks. 
 
 Rheostats for tanks. 
 
 Voltmeter. 
 
 Ammeter (not always necessary). 
 
 Wood tank for water, 2 compart- 
 ments, unlined, with overflow 
 and outlet pipe. 
 
 Wood tank for acid, lead lined 
 (not always necessary, jars may 
 often be used). 
 
 Iron tank for potash. 
 
 Wood tank for hot water with 
 overflow and outlet pipe. 
 
 Chemical stoneware jar for acid 
 dip. 
 
 Chemical stoneware jar for cya- 
 nide dip. 
 
 Steam sawdust box (not always 
 necessary). 
 
 PLATING SUPPLIES. 
 
 Solution, or material for solution. 
 
 Anodes. 
 
 Anocje hooks. 
 
 Hydrometer, 0-20, for solutions 
 
 Hydrometer, 0-70, for acids. 
 
 Slinging wire. 
 
 Kostico or XXX lye. 
 
 Cleaning compound. 
 
 Scrubbing brushes. 
 
 Potash brushes. 
 
 Cyanide of potash, C. P. 
 
 Powdered pumice, F. F. 
 
 Litmus paper. 
 
 Boxwood sawdust. 
 
 Sawdust brushes. 
 
 Dipping baskets. 
 
 POLISHING PLANT. 
 
 Lathes. 
 Column. 
 Countershaft. 
 Glue heater. 
 
 POLISHING SUPPLIES. 
 
 Leather-covered wood wheels. 
 Union canvas wheels. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Bull-neck wheels. 
 
 Walrine wheels. 
 
 Felt wheels. 
 
 Muslin buffs. 
 
 Cotton flannel buffs. 
 
 Bristle wheels. 
 
 Tampico wheels. 
 
 Scratch brushes. 
 
 Turkish emery (various grades). 
 
 Glue, XXXX flake. 
 
 Glue brushes. 
 
 Emery paste. 
 
 F. F. composition. 
 
 Crocus composition. 
 
 Tripoli composition. 
 
 Burring composition, XXX. 
 
 Essex lime composition. 
 
 Hard rouge. 
 
 Lump pumice stone. 
 
 Many other articles illustrated 
 and described in the following 
 pages will be found very useful 
 but not always necessary. 
 
SECTION L 
 A COMPLETE ELECTRO-PLATING PLANT, 
 
 PART L— THE PLATING ROOM. 
 
 If possible have this on the ground floor and where it 
 will receive the best light and ventilation ; both are essen- 
 tial ti i good work. The room must be provided with 
 facilities for obtaining a plentiful supply., of fresh running- 
 water and live steam, as much of the work in plating is 
 in preparing the article by scouring, dipping, and rinsing, 
 and. with convenient facilities for doing this, the cost is 
 reduced and -better work accomplished. 
 
 The Floor. — The best and most satisfactory floor for 
 a plating room is one constructed of concrete or cement, 
 having suitable gutters arranged at the sides of the room, 
 these to drain into a screen-covered catch basin properly 
 connected with the sewer by a good sized soil pipe and 
 trap. 
 
 The waste water from the tanks can then be carried 
 
12 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 off through the gutters, thereby saving considerable 
 expense in piping. 
 
 The floor may then at any time be cleaned by flushing 
 with a hose. 
 
 Arrangement of Dipping Tank Hood, and Exhaust Fan. 
 
 Another and cheaper method of constructing a plating* 
 room floor is by the use of good quality heavy tar paper 
 having the edges well lapped, the seams and top of the 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 13 
 
 paper then to be well coated with asphaltum and given a 
 good sprinkling of coarse sand, while hot. 
 
 Wood gratings made of narrow strips about one inch 
 high placed in front of each tank will be found very use- 
 
 Arrangement of Steam Exhaust for Acid Fumes. 
 
 ful in keeping the operator's feet from the wet and damp- 
 ness caused by the drippings from the tanks. 
 
 Dipping Tank Ventilation. — A large wooden hood 
 arranged directly over the dipping tanks, and connected 
 to a chimney flue or through a window sash by a square 
 wooden flue made of boards, will be found of great bene- 
 
14 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 lit to the operator by carrying off the acid fumes. The 
 hood and flue should be coated both inside and out with 
 acid proof paint. 
 
 A small exhaust fan should be placed under the hood 
 at the entrance to the outlet in a manner similar to the 
 sketch. This may be driven by a small round belt. The 
 forced draught created will keep an ordinary sized room 
 free from steam or acid fumes. 
 
 Equally good results can be obtained by using a steam 
 pipe in place of the fan. The pipe should be arranged to 
 exhaust into the outlet flue ; this will create a good 
 draught, which will carry off all vapors or fumes. 
 
 The steam pipe should be given a very heavy coating 
 of acid proof paint to keep it from rusting. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 
 
 
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 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
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 Method of Connecting Dynamo, Tanks, and Instruments. TwD-wire System. 
 
PART IL-ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT. 
 
 DYNAMOS. 
 
 The dynamo or battery may well be termed the heart 
 of all electro-plating operations, as either is absolutely 
 necessary to generate the electrical current required in the 
 plating solution tanks. 
 
 Batteries at the present time play a very small part in 
 these operations. This is due to the many improvements 
 in construction of modern dynamos and to the reduction 
 in cost of the machines and running expense. 
 
 The dynamo consequently is the first and most impor- 
 tant article to be considered when selecting material for 
 an electro-plating plant, and should be purchased from 
 a reliable manufacturer. Avoid experimenting with 
 some odd or unknown dynamo that can be bought for a 
 small sum, as it is almost sure to prove a source of trouble 
 and expense. 
 
 A first-class modern dynamo possesses the following 
 important features and should be selected accordingly : — 
 
 One that is not overestimated in capacity rating. 
 
 17 
 
1 8 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 One that is noiseless in operation. 
 
 One that will give a steady flow of current. 
 
 One in which the current can be easily controlled. 
 
 One that will not require constant attention. 
 
 One that will not spark. 
 
 One having- interchangeable parts. 
 
 One that is sufficiently large to do the work required 
 in the various solution tanks and still have some energy 
 to spare so that at any time, when an increase in business 
 may warrant, one or more tanks may be added in the cir- 
 cuit without the necessity of buying a new machine. 
 
 A rapid deposit depends on certain well-known con- 
 ditions, viz., the density of the solution, the distance 
 between anode and cathode, but primarily on the mainte- 
 nance of the electro-motive force at a certain strength 
 continuously. A properly constructed compound-wound 
 dynamo will maintain the initial voltage without drop, 
 that is, the voltage being set by means of the field rheo- 
 stat, one piece or a number of tanks full of work can be 
 deposited without either rise or drop in voltage, this fac- 
 tor remaining constant under all conditions, and with the 
 solution at proper density uniform results in the same 
 space of time can always be obtained. 
 
 Standard electro-plating' dynamos are constructed 
 varying in capacity from 50 to 6,000 amperes, with a cur- 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 19 
 
 rent pressure of 4^2 to 6 volts to operate on the two-wire 
 system, this being- the one most commonly used. These 
 may be furnished either compound or shunt wound, or 
 with fields wound for separate excitation. 
 
 In dynamos over 2,000 ampere capacity, it is advisable 
 to use the separately excited type, a shop current being 
 used for the excitation of the fields. 
 
 Motor generator sets are especially recommended as 
 they may be located at the most convenient points in the 
 shop, without regard to the location of line shafts. 
 Trouble with the long line shafts occasionally results in 
 stopping all of the machinery. With the electric drive, 
 trouble at one point does not interfere with the operation 
 of the dynamo in another part of the shop. 
 
 Belting and shafting may be dispensed with, resulting 
 in better light, less dirt and oil. The noise of belts run- 
 ning at highspeed, as well as the danger of injury from 
 them, is avoided. 
 
 The friction loss due to long heavy shafting is avoided, 
 and the operating expense stops with the motor. This 
 friction loss, especially when the shafting is slightly out 
 of line, represents a large percentage of the total power 
 delivered by the engine. 
 
 It is considered good practice to work generators to 
 their maximum capacity, and with the direct connected 
 
20 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 outfit the full capacity of the generator is always at the 
 command of the operator, night or day, without reference 
 to the rest of the shop. It has been demonstrated in 
 many instances that the output of the plating dynamo has 
 been increased when direct connected to the motor. 
 
 METHOD OF CONNECTING DYNAMOS, TANKS, 
 AND INSTRUMENTS. 
 
 TWO-WIRE SYSTEM. 
 
 fl 
 
 A Compound-wound Multipolar Dynamo. 
 
 Dynamos. — All modern plating dynamos unless 
 otherwise ordered are generally compound wound. This 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 21 
 
 method of wiring is particularly desirable in the smaller 
 sizes, as this peculiarity in winding enables the operator 
 to adjust the voltage to some definite point (which is 
 done by the use of a field rheostat), when no further 
 hand regulation is necessary; for with a fairly uniform 
 speed the voltage will remain constant, whether one piece 
 of work is placed in the tank, or the same is loaded to the 
 full capacity of the machine. 
 
 A Motor Generator Set. 
 
 Motor Generator Sets. — The dynamo description 
 also applies to the generators of motor generator sets. 
 These sets can be furnished with motors operating on 
 either direct or alternating current. 
 
22 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 For instructions, management of dynamo, see Section 
 
 12. 
 
 Placing. — It is very important that the dynamo or 
 motor generator set be properly placed and where it is 
 easy of access. It should not be exposed to moisture or 
 to the dust and dirt from the polishing room. 
 
 Cleanliness is a necessity. A well-ventilated machine 
 will do more work with less wear than one unfavorably 
 placed. 
 
 Foundation. — The smaller sized dynamos may be 
 placed on rigid wooden frames ; they may also be attached 
 to the side wall or suspended from the ceiling. The 
 larger sizes should be placed on brick or concrete 
 piers, as it is very important that all vibration be reduced 
 to a minimum. Care must be taken to see that the 
 machine is perfectly level and that it is accurately lined up 
 with the driving pulley of the countershaft. 
 
 Speed. — The dynamo must be run at the speed marked 
 on the name plate, otherwise it is impossible to obtain 
 proper results. The speed should be tested with an 
 accurate speed indicator. 
 
 In most instances where complaints have been made 
 that the dynamo did not work properly, it has been found 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 23 
 
 by investigation that the above instructions were not 
 carried out, or that the dynamo had been run from a 
 power of variable speed, often caused by a frequent slip- 
 ping of belts. 
 
 The armature should revolve in the direction which 
 would cause the commutator to run from the brushes 
 and not toward them. 
 
 Belting. — When possible place the dynamo in such a 
 position that a slanting belt can be used and so that the 
 underside of the belt does the pulling. The length of 
 belt to use for the best results is one that would allow for 
 about 10 to 15 feet between the centers of dynamo and 
 driving pulleys. 
 
 Terminals. — The main line terminals of a dynamo 
 are necessarily constructed of a size suitable to carry the 
 entire ampere output of the dynamo, consequently the 
 main line wires should be of a size exactly to fit the holes 
 made in terminals. 
 
 Positive terminal is marked + or P. . 
 
 Negative terminal is marked — or N. 
 
 Field Rheostat. — A rheostat is necessary in the field 
 of the dynamo, where it will control the voltage along 
 the entire line of connection, enabling an initial current 
 
24 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 pressure to be maintained, while the tank rheostats 
 further reduce this current to the proportions needed at 
 the place required. 
 
 Field Rheostat. 
 
 Connect the rheostat in the field by copper wires which 
 exactly fit the terminals made to receive them. 
 
 Rheostat in Field oj Multipolar Type Dynamo. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 25 
 
 Place the rheostat not more than three feet from the 
 dynamo and within easy reach. It may be fastened on 
 a suitable wooden frame, or on the side wall. When 
 starting the dynamo turn the rheostat lever to the weak 
 point until the dynamo has obtained full speed, then shift 
 the lever gradually toward the strong point until the 
 proper voltage has been obtained as indicated by the 
 voltmeter. 
 
 Countershaft.— Dynamos should always be driven 
 from a countershaft as they are then under better control 
 of the operator, and in case of accident can be quickly 
 stopped without injury. 
 
 Main Line. — Bare copper wire is used for this pur- 
 pose, the voltage being so low that there is no danger of 
 leakage. For the main line or leads, only pure copper 
 wire or rod should be used and this must be sufficiently 
 large to carry the entire ampere output of the dynamo. 
 
26 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 The size required can be determined by the size of the 
 dynamo terminals or by reference to the table on page 50. 
 
 Main Line Connections. — When it is necessary to 
 splice or piece the main line, it can easily be done by using 
 No. 4 connections of proper size. 
 
 No. 4 Cotmeciion. 
 
 Main Line Location. — When possible place the main 
 lines along the side wall about the height of the opera- 
 tor's head. They will then be out of the way, and it will 
 also be easier to arrange the instruments where needed. 
 
 When it is necessary to place the main lines in the cen- 
 ter of the room they should run perpendicularly from the 
 dynamo terminals to a height sufficiently great to allow 
 plenty of head room for the operator, then horizontally 
 for the desired length. 
 
 The main lines may be supported by grooved wooden 
 brackets, porcelain cleats, or porcelain knobs. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 2J 
 
 Tanks for Plating Solutions. — Tanks for plating- 
 solutions are made of several kinds of material, the kind 
 required depending- upon the kind and quantity of solu- 
 tion to be used. The regular tanks are : — 
 
 Wood tanks lined with prepared tank lining. 
 
 Wood tanks, lead lined. 
 
 Enameled iron tanks. 
 
 Plain iron tanks. 
 
 Steel riveted tanks. 
 
 Earthenware tanks. 
 
 Glass tanks or jars. 
 
 When possible place the first tank not more than about 
 10 feet from the dynamo, taking care that enough work- 
 ing space for the operator is left between the first and the 
 succeeding tanks. The small sized tanks may be placed 
 on benches or frames so they will be at a convenient 
 height. 
 
 Wood Tanks Lined with Prepared Tank Lining. — 
 
 These may be used for all of the so-termed cold plating- 
 solutions, and if necessary they may be fitted with a loop 
 of lead steam pipe, in order to take the chill off the solu- 
 tion during cold weather. The pipe entering and return- 
 ing from the tank should be insulated from the heating 
 system with insulating joints. Care, however, must be 
 
28 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 taken that the solution does not become too hot, as this 
 will cause the lining to run to the bottom of the tank. In 
 no case should the temperature exceed 120 F. 
 
 Wood tanks are generally used when it is necessary to 
 operate large plating solutions; they serve a very impor- 
 
 * Wood Tank. 
 
 tant part in the plating shop, and too much care cannot be 
 given in selecting" them. 
 
 The tanks should be purchased from manufacturers of 
 supplies who make a specialty of this line, as they employ 
 skilled mechanics and use only the very best lumber. 
 Tank making is a special branch of the carpenter trade, 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 20, 
 
 and is in a class by itself, as the amateur tank maker may 
 soon discover. 
 
 Beware of homemade tanks, the best of them are very 
 unreliable. Many platers believe they can save a few 
 dollars by making their own tanks, but will not think so 
 when they go to the shop some morning and find that the 
 solution has leaked out on the floor and possibly on the 
 machinery and tools in the shop below, thereby causing 
 considerable damage. 
 
 The best tanks are made of selected kiln-dried cypress 
 of 2 or 3 inch stock, with carefully fitted joints, and are 
 held together by numerous stout iron bolts. 
 
 Wood tanks can be bought in all shapes and sizes to 
 suit requirements. They are generally made of lumber 2 
 inches thick, excepting the very large sizes, when 3 inch 
 stock is used. 
 
 Tanks have two specifications to be considered, the size 
 or shape (length, width, and depth) in inches and the 
 capacity in gallons. Y\ nen calculating the number and 
 length of rods to use on a tank as well as the number 
 and length of anodes for same, it is necessary to know 
 the size in inches, and when calculating for a solution it 
 is necessary to know the capacity in gallons. 
 
 When purchasing a tank state the length, width, and 
 depth in inches. 
 
30 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 To find the capacity of a tank in gallons, multiply the 
 length by the width and this product by the depth, then 
 divide by 232, this being the number of cubic inches con- 
 tained in one gallon. 
 
 Always allow at least 6 inches between the lowest point 
 of the largest work and the bottom of the tank. 
 
 Wooden tanks should never rest on the floor, but on 
 stringers, in order to protect the bottom from the wet and 
 from becoming rotten. 
 
 When shipments are made to near-by points, the manu- 
 facturers generally send the tanks, lined and ready for 
 use; lined tanks should be kept filled with clean water 
 until needed. This will aid greatly in preserving the lin- 
 ing. 
 
 When tanks are to be shipped to any great distance it is 
 advisable to have them sent unlined, as the lining is liable 
 to become injured in transit. 
 
 Tank Lining. — When wood tanks are shipped un- 
 lined, sufficient prepared tank lining should be sent with 
 them, this to be supplied by the plater. 
 
 Directions for Lining Wooden Plating Tanks with 
 Prepared Tank Lining. — The tanks must be thoroughly 
 dry and free from grease or the lining will not adhere. 
 
 Tighten all bolts and nuts before beginning operations. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 3 I 
 
 The best results may be obtained in lining wooden plat- 
 ing tanks by using specially prepared tank lining. Melt 
 this in an iron or tin vessel over a slow fire until it 
 becomes very thin. It is then applied to the tank by 
 using a whitewash or similar brush, working rapidly 
 while hot. It is a good plan to first paint the joints with 
 the lining and while it is hot place over them strips of 
 cheese cloth or muslin; then go over the entire surface 
 giving a thin, even coating. After this is done heat some 
 clean sand (sea sand preferred) and sprinkle this freely 
 over the lining. The sand while hot should then be 
 rolled in by using a small hard-wood or iron pipe roller. 
 This hardens the lining and will aid greatly in preventing 
 its running in hot weather. 
 
 Care must be taken while melting the lining that it does 
 not become too hot or come in contact with the fire, as it 
 will readily ignite. It is safer to melt fliis in the open 
 and not in the shop. 
 
 If at any time the lining becomes uneven it can be 
 smoothed down by using a hot flatiron. 
 
 Tanks or tubs that are to be used for acid dips or pickles 
 should be lined both inside and outside, but not sanded, 
 as the action* of the acid would soon destroy the sand. 
 
 About' five pounds of prepared tank lining will cover 
 one square yard. 
 
32 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Wood Tanks, Lead Lined. — These tanks, while the 
 most expensive, make the best possible containers for all 
 plating solutions, either cold Or hot. If cold solutions 
 
 Iron Tank. 
 
 are to be used, it is better to have the lead coated with 
 prepared tank lining. These tanks are particularly 
 recommended for silver and acid copper solutions. 
 
 Enameled Iron Tanks. — These may be used with all 
 solutions, either cold or hot, excepting acid or acid solu- 
 tions, for the reason that the action of the acid will 
 quickly destroy the enamel. They are particularly 
 adapted for use with gold and silver solutions. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 33 
 
 Plain Iron Tanks. — These may be used for cyanide 
 solutions, either cold or hot, excepting gold, silver, gal- 
 vanizing, acid copper, or nickel solutions, but when lined 
 with prepared tank lining they will serve the same pur- 
 pose as the wooden tanks. 
 
 The plain and enameled iron tanks are generally made 
 with an overhanging flange of about one inch. A good 
 plan for supporting these is to make a frame of boards 
 about 6 inches wide, built on edge, on which the tank 
 flanges may rest. Suitable legs of the desired height can 
 then be fastened to the frame. 
 
 When fitting anode and cathode rods on iron tanks, 
 they must be insulated from the tank. This may be done 
 by using wooden strips placed across the ends of the 
 tanks, or by fitting a small piece of rubber hose over the 
 rods. 
 
 Steel Riveted Tanks. — These may be used under the 
 same conditions as the plain iron tanks. 
 
 Earthenware Tanks. — These may be used for all* 
 solutions, either cold or hot, but care must be taken while 
 heating the solutions to do so gradually in order to pre- 
 vent the tank from cracking. 
 
 When used for hot solutions it is safer to arrange the 
 • tank in a steam-heated water jacket or bath. 
 
34 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Glass Tanks or Jars. — These may be used for all 
 solutions and are particularly adapted for use with small 
 o-old and silver solutions. If a hot solution is to be used 
 it should be heated gradually in order to prevent the glass 
 from cracking. 
 
 When heating solutions contained in glassware they 
 should be placed on a sand bath (an iron pan containing 
 sand) as they may be heated more evenly in this manner, 
 and if the glass should then crack the solution will be 
 caught in the pan, or the jars may be placed in a hot 
 water bath. 
 
 Agate Ware Vessels. — For very hot solutions, except- 
 ing acid solutions, a good quality, one-piece, agate 
 ware vessel is recommended. 
 
 Tank Rods. — Heavy brass tubes are generally used as 
 tank rods for all ordinary electro-plating purposes. The 
 tensile strength of the hollow formation makes the tubes 
 sufficiently rigid to support the necessary weight and the 
 wall of the tubes is thick enough to carry the necessary 
 current. If these rods should not prove to be sufficiently 
 rigid they can be stiffened by inserting a piece of common 
 iron pipe or rod. 
 
 For very small tanks, solid brass rods about 5" T<r) 
 inch in diameter are generally used. These have holes 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 35 
 
 drilled through them near the ends to receive the connect- 
 ing wire, which is held in place by a thumbscrew fitted in 
 the end of the rod. 
 
 Plating tanks, depending on the size, shape, and 
 requirements, are regularly fitted with brass rods in the 
 following manner : — 
 
 Anode rod +, work rod — . 
 
 Two-rod tank, I anode rod, i work rod. 
 
 Three-rod tank, 2 anode rods, 1 work rod. 
 
 Four-rod tank, 2 anode rods, 2 work rods. 
 
 Five-rod tank, 3 anode rods, 2 work rods. 
 
 See page 16. 
 
 Rod Connections. — On all tanks there are only two 
 terminals as lead connections, — one as positive, the other 
 negative. All connections between anode and cathode 
 rods must be arranged so that the current passes from the 
 anodes through the solution to cathode. 
 
 Arrangement. — The most approved method of con- 
 necting tank rods is to have all of the connections made 
 at the end of the tank nearest to the main line. See page 
 16. 
 
 Fitting. — All connections must perfectly fit the tank 
 rods and branch wires. 
 
36 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 No. i Rod Con?iection. 
 
 No. 2 Rod Connection. 
 
 A 2-rod tank requires 2 No. 1 connections. 
 
 A 3-rod tank requires 
 
 A 4-rod tank requires 
 
 A 5-rod tank requires 
 See page 16, 
 
 2 No. 1 connections. 
 
 1 No. 2 connection. 
 
 ( 2 No. 1 connections. 
 ( 2 No. 2 connections. 
 
 3 No. 1 connections. 
 
 2 No, 2 connections. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 37 
 
 Branch Wires to Tanks. — These must be of pure cop- 
 per and of a size suitable to' carry the entire ampere 
 capacity of the tank. 
 
 These wires should be connected to the main line by 
 No. 3 connections, — one from main line positive to the 
 positive tank rod connection, the other from the main line 
 negative to the negative tank rod connection. See dia- 
 gram, page 1 6. 
 
 A r o. j Connection. 
 
 Bus Bar Connections. — For some purposes flat cop- 
 per bus bars are used at either side on the upper edge of 
 the tank, these extending for the full length of the tank, 
 one bar as positive, the other as negative, connection 
 through the solution being made by numerous cross rods 
 of brass or copper ; the anode rods are made flat on one 
 end and come in contact with the positive bar, the oppo- 
 site end being insulated by a piece of rubber tube. 
 
 The cathode rods are made flat at one end and come 
 in contact with the negative bar, the opposite end being 
 insulated by a piece of rubber tube. 
 
TANK RHEOSTATS. 
 
 The Use of Rheostats. — Rheostats are of the first 
 importance in the plating room. Without them the vary- 
 ing degrees of current necessary for handling different 
 solutions, or for manipulating baths of various sizes, can- 
 not be obtained. 
 
 A rheostat is necessary in the field of the dynamo, 
 where it will control the voltage along the entire line of 
 
 Tank Rheostat. 
 
 connection, enabling an initial current strength to be 
 maintained while the tank rheostats further reduce this 
 current to the proportions required. 
 
 The rheostat in field, while it affects the voltage by 
 setting a fixed resistance in the field of dynamo, does not 
 affect the ampere capacity except in a minor degree. On 
 the other hand the rheostat placed between main line and 
 tank affects both voltage and amperes, reducing the latter 
 
 38 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 39 
 
 in same proportion as the former is cnt down. It is nec- 
 essary, then, that the rheostat selected for the tank be of 
 ampere carrying capacity sufficient to handle the current 
 used in the tank. If the rheostat has not sufficient capacity 
 to handle the ampere current a resistance is formed 
 preventing the proper amount of current from flowing 
 into the tank. The action of a current of electricity can 
 be likened to the passage of water through a pipe, the 
 force with which the water flows from the aperture rep- 
 resenting the voltage, while the quantity discharged may 
 represent the ampere current. If a valve or stop-cock is 
 placed on this pipe the action would be similar to that of 
 the tank rheostat in an electric circuit. 
 
 In arranging tanks it is necessary that conductors be 
 of sufficient size to carry the greatest number of amperes 
 the tank will handle. Different solutions require dif- 
 ferent amperes per square foot of work surface (all sur- 
 face exposed to the action of the current). See page 50: 
 Table of amperes required for different solutions, as well 
 as a table of carrying capacity of copper wire in amperes. 
 
 Connecting Tank Rheostats. — Connect a tank rheo- 
 stat by cutting in on the negative branch wire between the 
 tank and main line. The terminals of the rheostat 
 should exactly fit this wire. 
 
VOLTMETERS, 
 
 Voltmeters bear the same relation to electrical genera- 
 tors that steam gauges do to boilers, by indicating the 
 pressure of the electrical current. 
 
 Multiple Voltmeter, 14 Negative Points. — For 
 
 direct current circuits only, 0-10 volts. 
 
 The most popular voltmeter is one made with binding 
 posts for connecting to 14 tanks (1 positive and 14 nega- 
 tive posts), thus enabling the operator to use only one 
 
 Multiple Voltmeter. 
 
 instrument in obtaining the reading of any number of 
 tanks up to 14, by simply moving- the switch lever to the 
 tank numbers indicated on the switch of the instrument; 
 and when used in connection with suitable patent tank 
 rheostats it will enable the operator to reproduce at all 
 
 40 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 41 
 
 times the same electrical conditions which, by observation 
 and experience, he has found necessary in order to obtain 
 a satisfactory deposit of uniform thickness and color in 
 the shortest possible time. 
 
 Location of Voltmeter. — Attach the voltmeter to a 
 suitable wooden frame or to the side wall, conveniently 
 
 near the dynamo and where the operator can easily reach 
 it in order to shift the lever when taking the readings of 
 the different tanks. 
 
 Connecting Voltmeter. — Connect voltmeter on the 
 main line between the- dynamo and branch lines of the 
 first tank, — binding posts marked + to positive main line, 
 and No. 1 negative post to negative main line. Ordinary 
 No. 18 office wire may be used for this purpose; wind 
 tightly around main line, giving several turns, taking care 
 
42 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 to make good contact. Fasten wire in place with a few 
 drops of solder. Then when the switch is set at No. i 
 post the reading- of the main line may be obtained. The 
 negative binding posts marked with successive numbers 
 should be connected in their order to the various plating 
 tanks on the negative or work line branch wires between 
 the tank rheostats and tanks ; then when the switch is 
 placed at any one of these numbers, the reading of that 
 particular tank may be taken. See diagram, page 16. 
 
 Voltmeter, Single Reading. 
 
 Voltmeters, Single Reading for Main Line. — Con- 
 nect single reading voltmeters for main line circuits on 
 the main line between the dvnamo and branch lines of the 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 43 
 
 first tank. Use No. i8 office wire; connect binding- post 
 marked + to positive line, and binding post marked — to 
 negative line. 
 
 Voltmeters, Single Reading for Tanks. — Connect 
 single reading voltmeters for individual tanks, by using 
 
 
 POSITIVE 
 
 ;> 
 
 
 
 
 v> 
 
 
 III 
 
 * 
 
 NEGATIVE 
 
 
 V 111 
 
 
 » 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 ^^\ 
 
 
 ■* < 
 
 
 Voltmeter, Single Reading. Method of Connecting on Main Line. 
 
 No. 1 8 office wire. Connect binding post marked + to 
 positive main line between the dynamo and branch lines 
 of the first tank, and binding post marked — to negative 
 branch line between the tank and tank rheostat. 
 
"1 
 
 AMMETERS. 
 
 Uses of Ammeters. — An ammeter connected in the 
 main line circuit will register the volume or quantity of 
 current generated by the dynamo. 
 
 An ammeter connected in a tank branch line will regis- 
 ter only the quantity of current going into the tank. 
 
 Ammeter. 
 
 Ammeters are not always considered necessary, but 
 they are an excellent guide for the operator. It is a 
 fundamental law of electrolysis that a certain number of 
 amperes passing through a plating solution will cause a 
 definite weight of metal to be deposited. So, for 
 instance, one ampere will deposit in one hour 17.06 
 grains of nickel, or 64.03 grains of silver. It is evident 
 
 44 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 45 
 
 therefore that by means of an accurate ammeter the 
 amount of metal actually deposited can be determined. 
 
 Kinds of Ammeters. — Standard ammeters reading up 
 to about 200 amperes are generally self-contained; those 
 reading higher are furnished with an external shunt. 
 
 Location of Ammeters. — Attach an ammeter to a 
 suitable wooden frame or to the side wall. Place a main 
 line ammeter near the dynamo and an individual tank 
 ammeter near the tank. 
 
 Connecting Ammeters. — Main line ammeters should 
 be connected in the negative main line between the 
 dynamo and first tank branch line. 
 
 Individual tank ammeters should be connected in the 
 negative branch line between the tank and tank rheostat. 
 Both self-contained ammeters and those having external 
 shunts should be fitted in place by cutting the negative 
 main line at the point required. 
 
 Ammeters, Self-contained. — Each end of the line, 
 where cut, should exactly fit the ammeter terminals. 
 
 Low reading ammeters often have suitable holes in the 
 binding posts to receive the wire. 
 
 The higher reading ammeters have terminals made 
 with a bolt over which the wire must fit; it is then held 
 in place by a nut. The ends of the line may then be flat- 
 
46 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 tened and drilled to fit the terminals, or suitable ammeter 
 connections may be obtained. 
 
 Connect a main line ammeter in the negative main line 
 between the first tank branch line and dynamo. Connect 
 binding post marked + to the end of wire leading from 
 the tank. Connect binding post marked — to the end of 
 wire returning to the dynamo. 
 
 POSITIVE 
 
 NEGATIVE 
 Ammeter ) Self- Contained. Method of Connecting in Main Line or in 
 
 Tank Branch Line. 
 » 
 
 Connect an individual tank ammeter in the negative 
 tank branch line between the tank and tank rheostat. 
 Connect binding post marked + to end of wire leading 
 from tank. Connect binding post marked — to the end 
 of wire returning to the main line. 
 
 Ammeters, Shunt Type. — Standard ammeters with 
 external shunts are furnished with shunts made to con- 
 nect with flat bars; therefore, if the line to be connected 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 47 
 
 in is made of round wire or bars, it is necessary to have 
 two shunt connections which exactly fit the round line 
 wire at one end and a flat extension at the other end 
 properly drilled to fit the ammeter shunt. 
 
 Shunt Connections. — These must be made of metal of 
 high conductivity, and should be furnished by a manu- 
 
 Ammeter Shunts. A Few Ammeter Shunts of Different Style Construction. 
 
 facturer, as it will be found difficult to have them properly 
 made in the plating shop. 
 
 Connect the shunt of a main line ammeter in the nega- 
 tive line between the dynamo and branch line of the first 
 tank. 
 
 Connect the shunt of a tank ammeter in the negative 
 branch line between the tank and tank rheostat. 
 
4 8 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 A Pair of Ammeter Shunt Connections. 
 
 It must be remembered that shunt ammeters are so con- 
 structed that thev are not intended to receive the entire 
 
 POSITIVE 
 
 i Ammeter. 
 
 2 Shunt. 
 
 3 Shunt cords. 
 
 4 Shunt connections. 
 
 Ammeter with External Shunt. Method of Connecting in Main Line, or 
 in Tank Branch Line, 
 
 quantity of current passing- through the line, but only a 
 very small percentage of it. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 49 
 
 They are accurately arranged, and calibrated accord- 
 ingly. 
 
 A shunt is a part of the instrument; thus it is abso- 
 lutely necessary to use only the shunt that is made for a 
 particular instrument and no other; also the flexible 
 wire furnished with the shunt must in no way be altered. 
 
 If the ammeter fails to register, reverse the ends of the 
 shunt wires at the binding posts of meter or at the shunt. 
 
 Points to Remember. — An area equal to one square 
 inch is required to carry 1,000 amperes. A copper rod 
 
 1 inch X 1 inch, or a strip of copper 4 inches X J4 inch or 
 
 2 inches X Yi inch, will fill this requirement. If round 
 wire is used an area equal to 1 square inch must be 
 employed, or a conductor about i J A inch diameter. 
 
 The above specifications apply only to installations 
 where the distance from the dynamo to tank — measuring 
 along the entire length of the conducting wire — is not 
 more than 40 feet. For distances greater than 40 feet 
 the size of the conductor should be increased as distance 
 is increased. Double the size conductor is needed for a 
 line of connection of 80 feet, while 50 per cent, increase 
 in size of wire is required if the distance is increased 50 
 per cent, over 40 feet. 
 
 In arranging branch wires from main line to tank it is 
 necessary that the wires be large enough to carry, with- 
 
'\_ 
 
 50 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 out heating, enough amperes to plate the full load of the 
 tank. The capacity of the tank in square feet of work 
 surface can be readily determined, then with a knowledge 
 of the amperes required to plate a square foot of surface 
 of the various metals, the total amount of amperes needed 
 for a full tank and the size of wire best adapted to carry 
 the current can be determined. 
 
 The following table gives the number of amperes 
 required to deposit a square foot of surface of each of the 
 various metals, and the carrying capacity of the different 
 sizes of copper wire. 
 
 Amperes Required to Plate 
 One Square Foot. 
 
 Carrying Capacity of 
 Copper "Wire. 
 
 Solution and Metal. 
 
 Average 
 Amperes. 
 
 Size. 
 
 Amperes. 
 
 Nickel 
 
 4 
 6 to 8 
 6 to 8 
 6 to 8 
 10 to 12 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 T X g inch - .0625 
 % " - -125 
 t 3 « " " - l8 75 
 
 X " - -250 
 
 A " - -3 I2 5 
 
 H " - -375 
 
 A " - -500 
 H " • -025 
 H " - -750 
 % " - .875 
 1 " - 1. 000 
 iyi " - 1. 125 
 
 3 
 
 Brass 
 
 12 
 
 Bronze 
 
 27 
 49 
 
 CoDDer 
 
 76 
 
 Acid Copper 
 
 196 
 
 Silver 
 
 306 
 441 
 
 601 
 785 
 
 Gold 
 
 Zinc 
 
 
 994 
 
 6 gallons of solution to 1 square foot of work are average figures for 
 
 calculation. 
 A gallon contains 232 cubic inches. 
 
PART III —SCOURING AND CLEANING 
 EQUIPMENT. 
 
 Scrubbing, Dipping, and Cleaning. — A plentiful sup- 
 ply of running water and steam heat is necessary in a 
 properly equipped plant. See page 15. 
 
 Scrubbing Tanks. — These are wooden tanks not 
 lined. They are generally made with a partition across 
 the center and furnished with an overflow and outlet 
 standpipe, the partition being a trifle higher than the 
 overflow. A water faucet should be arranged directly 
 over the compartment not containing the outlet. It is a 
 good plan to attach to the faucet a rubber hose reaching 
 to the bottom of this compartment so that the fresh water 
 will flow in at the bottom. When this side of the tank 
 becomes full the water flows over the partition into the 
 side containing the pipe. When this is filled the excess 
 water is taken care of by the overflow. The outlet pipe 
 should extend below the bottom of the tank for the pur- 
 pose of making a waste water connection. 
 
 A slanting bo'ard may be arranged along the side of the 
 
 Si 
 
52 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 tank for scrubbing purposes ; the side containing- the out- 
 let should be used for scrubbing- and first rinsing pur- 
 poses, the opposite side for clean or final rinsing. 
 
 Scrubbing Tank. 
 
 Wood Tanks for Acid Dips and Pickles. — Lead- 
 lined wood tanks make the best possible containers for 
 acid dips and pickles. It is 'a good plan to have them 
 fitted with false wooden bottoms in order to prevent the 
 lead from becoming punctured by any articles that may 
 drop to the bottom. 
 
 Tanks of this kind are not always necessary. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 53 
 
 A good stout tank or tub, lined both inside and outside 
 with prepared tank lining, without being sanded, will 
 answer the purpose for cold solutions. 
 
 Iron Tank for Potash, Lye, etc. 
 
 Iron Tanks for Potash, Lye, etc. — Plain square iron 
 tanks, steel riveted tanks, and steam jacketed boiling 
 kettles are used for potash, lye, etc. 
 
 The iron or steel tank should be fitted with an iron 
 steam coil in the bottom. This will furnish the necessary 
 heat for the solution. For convenience place a water 
 faucet directly over the tank. 
 
 Tanks for Hot Water. — Iron or wood tanks may be 
 used; wood tanks not lined are considered the best for 
 this purpose. They are fitted with an overflow and out- 
 let pipe arranged for connection to a waste water pipe. 
 
54 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 These should contain a lead steam coil placed on the 
 bottom to give the necessary heat. 
 
 Place a water faucet directly over the tank. 
 
 Steam Jacketed Boiling Kettles. 
 
 Jars for Acid Dips. — Special chemically glazed stone- 
 ware acid jars only should be used for this purpose. Do 
 not use common, cheap jars; they are porous and spongy 
 
 and nearly always prove a 
 source of annoyance. 
 
 The best method of arrang- 
 ing the jars is to place them 
 in a large, wooden tank con- 
 t»2 ''?!Ht tainiug running water; the 
 
 tank to be fitted with an over- 
 flow and outlet pipe. If the 
 jars are of various sizes, they 
 jar for Acid Dips. can be brought to a uniform 
 
 level by being placed on common bricks. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 55 
 
 Jars for Cyanide Dip. — Use chemical stoneware jars 
 same as for acid dips. 
 
 Steam Sawdust Box. — Steam-heated sawdust boxes 
 will be found very useful in the shop, but they are not 
 always necessary. 
 
 Steam Sawdust Box. 
 
 They are particularly useful when it is necessary to 
 dry large quantities of small work in a short time. The 
 articles can be quickly separated from the sawdust by the 
 use of a riddle. 
 
PART IV--SOLUTIONS, ANODES, CLEANING 
 METHODS, AND GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 Plating Solutions and Chemicals. — There is nothing 
 more important in electro-plating operations than the use 
 of absolutely pure chemicals. These should always be 
 purchased from responsible manufacturers or dealers. 
 
 Some buyers believe they are saving money when buy- 
 ing chemicals from irresponsible dealers for a few cents 
 per pound less than the regular market price. This is a 
 mistaken idea. Cheap chemicals are to be avoided, as 
 they generally prove to be very costly in the end. In 
 nearly all cases when used they cause serious difficulty 
 and often great expense, before the trouble due to their 
 use can be remedied. 
 
 When a plater desires to use the ordinary plating solu- 
 tions, such as nickel, copper, brass, and those made from 
 specially prepared salts, he will find it better and cheaper 
 to buy the chemicals and make the solution himself, thus 
 saving considerable in express or freight charges on a 
 large bulk of solution of which the greater portion is 
 
 56 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 57 
 
 water, excepting, of course, special solutions that are 
 made and sold ready for use. 
 
 Silver and gold solutions can be purchased in a concen- 
 trated liquid form, to which the plater has only to add the 
 necessary amount of water to make the full quantity of 
 solution required. 
 
 For instructions for making and maintaining various 
 plating solutions, see Section 5. 
 
 Anodes. — Anodes are the source of metallic supply in 
 electro-plating operations. They are made in all of the 
 standard commercial metals. The anodes should be long- 
 enough to reach to or below the lowest point of the 
 largest work. The tank should be deep enough to allow 
 at least six inches between the lowest point of the anodes 
 and the bottom of the tank. 
 
 Suspend all anodes from the positive rods. 
 
 Flat Anodes. — Flat anodes have been in use for many 
 years and are frequently used at the present day, but are 
 rapidly being discarded owing to the many advantages 
 gained by the use of the elliptic anodes. 
 
 Flat anodes can be obtained in any size or shape 
 required. They may be placed in the tank from 2 to 
 4 inches apart; a space of about 2 inches should be left 
 between them in order to allow a free circulation of the 
 solution. 
 
58 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Elliptic Anodes. — The elliptic anodes are rapidly super- 
 seding all other shapes. They are superior to the flat 
 anodes in that they present a larger active working sur- 
 
 Curved Elliptic Anode. 
 
 Elliptic Anode. 
 
 face to the cathode and cause a better circulation of solu- 
 tion, consequently give a more uniform and smooth 
 deposit in a shorter space of time. 
 
 These are cast in all metals; they are 2.^/2 inches wide 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 59 
 
 by ij4 inches thick, and made in any ordinary length 
 with square copper wire hooks attached. 
 
 Elliptic anodes should be placed in the tank about two 
 or three to each foot (not less than two). 
 
 Curved Elliptic Anodes. — The curved elliptic anodes 
 are cast in all metals and are particularly adapted for use 
 with revolving plating barrel solutions. The anode is 
 curved to fit the periphery of the revolving barrel, and 
 when an anode is hung at each side of the tank, the barrel 
 holding the work is equidistant at all times from the 
 anode, hence a regular and even deposit is obtained. 
 
 Curved elliptic anodes should be placed in the tank not 
 less than three to each foot. 
 
 Silver Anodes. — Always use pure silver anodes (999 
 fine) or good results cannot be obtained. These are 
 generally furnished in thin rolled sheet form about 1-32 
 inch thick. 
 
 Suspend the anodes in the solution with small sized 
 iron wire. 
 
 One square inch 1-32 inch thick weighs about .182 
 ounce. 
 
 Gold Anodes, 24 Karat. — These are for use with 24 
 karat gold solution, and should be suspended in the solu- 
 tion with small sized copper wire. 
 
 They are usually made in thin rolled sheet form about 
 
60 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 .015 inch thick. One square inch weighs about .154 
 ounce. 
 
 Gold Anodes, 14 Karat. — For use with 14 karat gold 
 solution. It is important that these be made of a special 
 alloy well adapted for the purpose. They should be sus- 
 pended in the solution with small sized copper wire. 
 
 These are generally furnished in thin rolled sheet form 
 about .020 inch thick. One square inch weighs about 
 .143 ounce. 
 
 Anode Hooks. — These are g-enerally made for flat 
 anodes in the form of an "s" hook of nickel or copper 
 wire, copper being the most used. The upper loop of 
 the hook should be flattened in order to make a good 
 contact on the* anode rod; the lower loop should snugly 
 fit the holes at the top of the anodes. 
 
 Elliptic anodes have square copper hooks attached. 
 
 Baume Hydrometers. — These are necessary articles 
 in all plating shops. Without them the operator is com- 
 
 ' ^^7 
 
 Baume Hydrometer. 
 
 pelled to make and maintain the plating solutions and 
 dips entirely by guess. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 61 
 
 Baume hydrometers 0-20 are used for testing the spe- 
 cific gravity or density of the plating solutions. 
 
 Baume hydrometers 0-70 are used for testing the spe- 
 cific gravity or density of acids and acid dips. 
 
 Slinging Wire. — Copper wire of small size is used 
 for this purpose, sizes varying from about No. 26 and 
 larger according to the class of work to be plated. 
 
 This wire is used in short lengths, one end being 
 looped around the article to be plated, the other over the 
 negative or work tank rod. When the articles are sus- 
 pended in the solution care should be taken to see that 
 thev do not touch the anodes. 
 
 ^rS^ 
 
 Plating Basket. 
 
 Plating Baskets. — Shallow wire baskets are often 
 used in place of the slinging wire when it is desired to 
 plate a quantity of small articles, such as screws, tacks, 
 rings, etc., the articles being freely distributed over the 
 bottom of the basket. It is necessary, however, to fre- 
 
62 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 quently shake the baskets in order to change the position 
 of the articles so that an even deposit may be obtained. 
 
 Plating Trees or Racks. — For some classes of work 
 plating trees or racks may be used in place of the slinging 
 wire. These may be made by the plater to suit the work 
 to be handled. They are generally made with one or 
 more perpendicular stems of narrow sheet metal, or stiff 
 wire, curved at the upper end to fit the work rod. To 
 these stems are fastened horizontal cross strips or wires 
 having small hooks attached on which to hang or place 
 the work. The racks may be improved by a covering of 
 insulating material, excepting at the places of contact. 
 This will prevent them from receiving the metallic 
 deposit. 
 
 A large number of articles, such as buckles, rings, fer- 
 rules, rods, etc., may be quickly handled in this manner, 
 thus avoiding the necessity of wiring them. 
 
 Kostico (Trade Mark), for Cleaning Work in All 
 Plating Operations. — Kostico is used as a dip to replace 
 potash or caustic sodas in cleaning nickel, copper, brass, 
 gold, silver, etc. It removes grease and dirt without tar- 
 nishing the brightest surface, preparing the work for 
 instant immersion in the plating solution, and retains its 
 strength in the dip for a long time. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 63 
 
 Kostico has a great advantage over other cleaners in 
 that a uniform quantity will give a uniform strength of 
 solution, removing grease and oil of all kinds without 
 oxidizing or discoloring the polish of highly finished 
 work. 
 
 Kostico. 
 
 It is quick to operate and being a dry, granular salt is 
 easily handled without loss. 
 
 Kostico makes a clean solution; there is no surface 
 
 scum to cling to the work. It is one of the best cleaners 
 
 known, and has the property of cutting the mineral oil 
 
 which is so generally used in covering bolts, nuts, screws, 
 
 etc. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 1 gallon. 
 
 Kostico }4 pound. 
 
 Must be used at boiling point. 
 
 Articles of brass or copper, when taken from the Kos- 
 
6 4 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 tico dip, should first be rinsed in cold water, then given a 
 cyanide dip, after which rinse again in 
 cold water and pass to the plating solu- 
 tion. 
 
 Articles of iron or steel, when taken 
 from the Kostico clip, should first be 
 rinsed in cold water, then given a muri- 
 atic acid dip, again rinsed in cold water 
 and passed to the plating solution. 
 
 New England Cleaning Compound, for removing 
 Polishing Compounds and Oil from Work. — New 
 England Cleaning Compound combines the requisite 
 qualities of potash, sal soda, soap, ammonia, and naphtha 
 and is a substitute for these. It quickly and thoroughly 
 removes all traces of oil, polishing compositions, or other 
 foreign matter from highly finished metals without tar- 
 nishing or oxidizing them. It will also give a high color 
 to brass work preparatory to lacquering. 
 
 In many classes of work it is very difficult to remove 
 the remains of the polishing material without much labor. 
 
 This compound is easy to use, is quick to work, and 
 avoids the danger in using naphtha, wood alcohol, etc. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water i gallon. 
 
 New England Cleaning Compound 6 ounces. 
 
 Use boiling hot. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 65 
 
 Allow the work to remain in the solution for a reason- 
 able length of time. On some classes of work it is nec- 
 essary at times to use the solution by scrubbing with a 
 brush. When the work is taken from the solution, rinse 
 first in cold and then in clean boiling water, after which 
 dry in hot boxwood sawdust. 
 
 Scouring Brushes. — For use with powdered pumice 
 stone and water, preparatory to plating, to remove any 
 
 Scouring Brushes. 
 
 foreign matter which may adhere to the work and for 
 preparing a suitable surface on the metal so that the 
 metallic deposit will more readily take hold. 
 
 These are made of bristle or tampico of various sizes 
 and shapes. The cuts show two of the most popular 
 styles. 
 
 Potash Brushes. — These are made of cotton wick and 
 are used for scrubbing or mopping the work with the 
 potash or lye solutions, in order to thoroughly saturate 
 
66 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 the work and hasten the action of the solutions. Tam- 
 pico brushes are also often used for this purpose. 
 Never use bristle brushes in lye or potash solutions. 
 
 Potash Brush. 
 
 Cyanide of Potassium (Poison). — Cyanide of potas- 
 sium is a very poisonous chemical, consequently great 
 care should be exercised when using it. 
 
 Cyanide of Potassium. 
 
 It is used in making many of the plating solutions; 
 also, when dissolved in water as a dip, for removing 
 stains or discoloration from brass, bronze, copper, and 
 silver. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 6 7 
 
 Pumice, Powdered. — This is used 
 with a hand brush and water for 
 scouring the work preparatory to 
 plating. It is also used on bristle or 
 tampico wheel' brushes to produce 
 finishes of different effects. 
 
 Litmus Paper. — This is used to test 
 all kinds of plating solutions ; it is 
 generally furnished in small padded strips called "books." 
 
 Blue litmus turns red if a solution contains free acid. 
 Red litmus will turn blue if free alkali is present. 
 
 Keep in a well-covered package when not in use. 
 
 Boxwood Sawdust. — Boxwood sawdust is used in a 
 regular steam-heated sawdust box, or a suitably heated 
 pan or tank, for the purpose of quickly drying the work 
 when taken from the plating tank or dips, after rinsing. 
 
 Sawdust Brush. 
 
 Sawdust Brushes. — These are used for brushing off 
 any fine particles of sawdust that may adhere to the work, 
 
68 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 and are particularly useful in removing sawdust from 
 articles having crevices or hollow places. - 
 
 Dipping Baskets. — These are made of stoneware or 
 wire and are used for dipping small articles in the lye, 
 acid, potash, or cleaning compounds. 
 
 Dipping Baskets. 
 
 Aluminum baskets will be found very convenient for 
 the purpose, owing to their light weight, and they are 
 not so easily broken as the stoneware. 
 
 They are practically acid proof, but must not be used in 
 potash, muriatic or hydrofluoric acids. 
 
 When selecting stoneware dipping baskets, always get 
 them with holes as large as possible without allowing the 
 work to slip through, so that the acid will flow out 
 quickly. 
 
SECTION IL 
 
 POLISHING PLANT, MACHINERY, 
 WHEELS, AND COMPOSITIONS. 
 
 The Polishing Room. — The polishing room should be 
 entirely separate from the plating room and so arranged 
 that it will receive plenty of light. 
 
 If a separate room is not available, a section of the 
 shop can easily be partitioned off with boards. 
 
 This is necessary, and of more importance than it may 
 seem, in order to keep the plating room clean and free 
 from particles of dust, lint, and polishing compositions, 
 that always arise during polishing and buffing operations, 
 and to keep them from settling on the plating solutions, 
 work, and dynamo. If this is not done, trouble may be 
 expected, as with a dirty or dust covered solution the 
 plater cannot obtain good results. 
 
 Coloring' or finishing should be done in a separate com- 
 partment of the polishing room, so that the grit from the 
 emery wheels and cutting* down compositions cannot in 
 any manner come in contact with the fine finishing 
 wheels. 
 
 69 
 
JO PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Ventilation. — It is important that the polishing room 
 be well ventilated so that the operator will not be com- 
 pelled to inhale constantly the fine particles of dust and 
 dirt. 
 
 For small shops, an exhaust fan driven by a small, 
 round belt and placed at the entrance of a chimney flue, 
 or in a window sash, near the lathe, will be of great as- 
 sistance in carrying off the dust. 
 
 In large shops it is advisable to have a sheet metal hood 
 arranged over each polishing wheel, the hoods to connect, 
 by sheet metal pipes of suitable size, to an exhaust blower. 
 In this manner the room can be kept entirely free from 
 dust and dirt, and at the same time receive perfect venti- 
 lation. 
 
 Grinder. 
 
 POLISHING PLANT, 
 
 Grinders. — These are for use with emery or corundum 
 wheels to cut off burrs or any uneven, rough, or lumpy 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 7 1 
 
 places on the work in order to prepare it quickly for the 
 finer finishes. 
 
 The speed at which a grinder should be run depends on 
 the size of machine, size of wheel, and class of work. 
 
 See speed chart, page 230. 
 
 Lathes. — Lathes for polishing and buffing are made in 
 many styles and sizes and should be carefully selected 
 according to requirements. 
 
 Always buy a good quality lathe; it will run smoother 
 and last longer than a cheap one. 
 
 Polishing and Buffing Lathe. 
 
 Polishing and Buffing Lathes. — These are made 
 with single pulleys to be driven from a countershaft, also 
 with tight and loose pulleys to be driven from a main line 
 shaft pulley. 
 
 This style lathe may be fastened to a stiff bench or 
 
72 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 stout wooden frame ; it is also furnished with iron stands 
 or columns. 
 
 Double Column Lathes. — This style lathe is low, 
 heavy, and rigid and particularly useful for large wheels 
 and heavy work. 
 
 Speeds for polishing about 1,600 to 1,800 r. p. m. 
 
 Speeds for burring about 2,400 to 3,000 r. p. m. 
 
 Double Column Lathe. 
 
 Independent Spindle Polishing Lathe. — The inde- 
 pendent or twin spindle polishing lathe has only recently 
 been placed on the market. It contains entirely new 
 features which cover a long felt want, especially in the 
 large polishing shops where many hands are employed. 
 
 The machine is practically two lathes combined in one. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 73 
 
 It is constructed so that either end of the spindle may be 
 started or stopped independently of the opposite end. 
 
 Throwing off a clutch brings a brake into action, which 
 stops the spindle instantly; while the reverse motion 
 releases the brake, which causes the spindle to start 
 instantly. 
 
 Independent Spindle Polishing Lathe. 
 
 If a polisher at one end of the lathe stops to change 
 wheels the one at the other end may continue with his 
 work without interference. In many shops this means a 
 saving- of many hours in a month. 
 
74 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 No countershaft is required with this lathe for the 
 reason that, when both clutches are thrown off, the pul- 
 ley of the lathe serves the same purpose as the loose pul- 
 ley on a countershaft. 
 
 Belt Strapping At- 
 tachment. — This is used 
 with endless polishing 
 belts set up with glue and 
 emery for roughing out 
 and polishing. 
 
 It is particularly adapted 
 for use on all sorts and 
 conditions of metal sur- 
 faces that are inaccessi- 
 ble with the regular pol- 
 ishing wheels, such as plumbers' supplies, bicycle parts, 
 gas fixtures, cutlery, etc. 
 
 The attachment is operated by a 12-inch flanged pulley 
 attached to a polishing- lathe ; this drives the polishing 
 belt, the other end of which is supported by a 6-inch 
 flanged idler pulley attached to the strapping machine. 
 The 12-inch pulley should run at a speed of about 1,600 
 r. p. m. 
 
 Endless Canvas Polishing Belts. — These are for. use 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 75 
 
 with the belt strapping attachment, and should be set up 
 with glue and emery in a similar manner to the polishing 
 wheels. 
 
 Directions for use, see page 96. 
 
 Scratch Brush Lathe. 
 
 Scratch Brush Lathes. — These are made with single 
 pulleys, also with fast and loose pulleys. It is impos- 
 
 Electric Motor Polishing Lathe. 
 
 sible to recommend any stated speeds at which they should 
 be run to obtain proper results. 
 
 The speeds depend entirely upon the class and shape 
 
7 6 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 of work to be finished, the diameter of the scratch brush, 
 and the size and kind of wire of which it is made. 
 
 The speeds vary anywhere from 500 to 2,000 r. p. m. 
 
 Electric Motor Polishing Lathes. — Electric motor 
 polishing- lathes may be obtained in various sizes, with the 
 motor wound to operate on any regular direct current 
 
 circuit. They may be located 
 at any convenient place with- 
 out regard to line shaft or belt- 
 ing, and are so easily controlled 
 that they are particularly use- 
 ful to small manufacturers, 
 jewelers, and dentists, also 
 hotels, restaurants, etc. 
 
 Foot Power Polishing and 
 Grinding Lathe.— This style 
 lathe will be found very useful 
 for small manufacturers, elec- 
 tro-platers, jewelers, repair 
 shops, etc., where no other 
 Foot Power Lathe. power is available. 
 
 Steam Glue Heaters. — A first-class glue pot in a pol- 
 ishing room is of more importance than is generally sup- 
 posed. No polishing room is complete without one. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 71 
 
 The steam glue heater illustrated here is one of the best 
 styles made; it is perfectly automatic in its water supply 
 and needs no attention whatever after regulating the 
 steam pressure. When two or more pots are connected, 
 as shown in the cut, the water or condensed steam will 
 remain at a uniform level up to the height of the overflow 
 or outlet. 
 
 Steam Glue Heater. 
 
 The steam feed pipe runs through the larger connect- 
 ing pipes and has numerous small perforations allowing 
 the live steam to escape directly into the water chambers, 
 thus insuring an even heat in all chambers, and the con- 
 
7 8- 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 densation will keep the water constantly at a uniform 
 level. 
 
 The stand is fitted with upright arms to support the 
 wheels while "setting- up" with glue. This allows the sur- 
 plus glue to drop back into the pot instead of on the floor. 
 
 Glue heaters of this design are made in several sizes, 
 holding from one to six pots, the size being designated by 
 the number of pots. 
 
 Polishing. — "Polishing" is the 
 trade term given to the operation of 
 grinding and smoothing metals by 
 the use of wheels set up with glue 
 and emery, in order to bring them 
 up to the proper state for plating or 
 other purposes. 
 
 The operation on rough metal is 
 begun with a wheel set up with 
 coarse emery. This is called "roughing out." The 
 metal is then gone over with wheels set up with emery 
 of varying finer sizes, until a smooth finish is obtained. 
 If a very fine finish is wanted, the metal is again gone 
 over with a grease wheel and finished on a dry fine 
 wheel. See Section 3. 
 
 There is no set rule as to what kind of wheels or 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 79 
 
 grades of emery to use to obtain certain results. Many 
 experienced polishers differ widely on this subject, while 
 the finished work of each may be all that could be desired. 
 The quality of work turned out of course depends upon 
 the kind of wheels and grades of emery used, but prob- 
 ably more depends upon the skill of the operator. 
 
 For speeds of polishing- wheels, see chart, page 230. 
 
 Polishing Wheels. — Polishing wheels set up with 
 glue and emery are also used for a great variety of pur- 
 poses not mentioned in the following general description. 
 
 Leather- covered Wood Wheel. 
 
 Leather-covered Wood Wheels. — These are stand- 
 ard wheels and are used chiefly for flat work, flat relief 
 patterns, sharp corners, angles, etc. They are used for 
 roughing out, also with the finer grades of emery, and 
 make a splendid grease wheel. 
 
8o 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Union Canvas Wheels. — These are made of layers of 
 heavy canvas held together by cement. They are of a 
 flexible nature, are good all-around wheels, and are par- 
 
 Union Canvas Wheel. 
 
 Bull- neck Wheel. 
 
 ticularly adapted for roughing out stove work, drop 
 forgings, plumbers' brass goods, etc. 
 
 Bull-neck Wheels. — These are made of layers of 
 heavy bull-neck leather and are used for almost all pur- 
 poses, from roughing out to finishing. 
 
 Walrus Wheels. — Walrus wheels are made from wal- 
 rus, or sea-horse leather. The hide varies in thickness 
 from J/2 to ij4 inches. It has a peculiarly tough grain 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 8 1 
 
 and is used in finishing silverware, brass goods, stoves, 
 cutlery, and agricultural implements that require a fine 
 polish. 
 
 These wheels are used with crocus, emery, rouge, or 
 rotten stone, and give a smooth, fine finish to the work. 
 
 Walrine Wheel. 
 
 Walrine Wheels. — These are made of layers of split 
 leather cemented together, and while flexible still retain a 
 hard, smooth face. The face may be shaped by turning, 
 to fit almost any class of work. They are an excellent 
 wheel for all purposes from roughing out to finishing, 
 and make a fine grease wheel. 
 
 Felt Wheels. — These are used with emery and glue 
 and also with the various polishing compositions accord- 
 
§2 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 ing to the finish required. They make an excellent fin- 
 ishing wheel for flat relief parts similar to ornamental 
 stove castings. 
 
 They may be used with all grades of emery from No. 
 ioo and finer, and make an unusually fine grease wheel. 
 They are also largely used with the finer polishing com- 
 pounds for high coloring after plating. 
 
 They should be thoroughly balanced before using, and 
 care must be taken that they do not become too hot from 
 friction, as this will cause the face to burn in holes or 
 pockets under the surface. When a felt wheel has been 
 burned, it must be turned off down to the good felt. 
 
 Sheepskin Wheel. 
 
 Sheepskin Wheels. — These are furnished, quilted, 
 loose, or cemented. They are very soft and flexible and 
 may be used with all grades of emery. They are par- 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 83 
 
 ticularly adapted for work having- rounded edges and 
 irregular curves, such as plumbers' supplies, gas fixtures, 
 cutlery, etc., where it is impossible to reach with a hard, 
 flat wheel. 
 
 Emery Wheels. — Emery or corundum wheels are 
 used for cutting off burrs or any rough or lumpy places 
 on the castings to prepafe them for the finer finishes to be 
 made by the polishing wheels set up with glue and emery. 
 
 Muslin Buff. 
 
 Muslin Buffs. — These are made of either hard or soft 
 muslin of various grades, either loose or stitched, and are 
 used for cutting down and finishing the metal by being 
 charged while in motion with the necessary cutting down 
 or polishing composition. 
 
84 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 They are used with tripoli composition for cutting 
 down brass and copper before plating, and with lime 
 composition for cutting and coloring nickel, brass, and 
 copper after plating, also with the finer coloring com- 
 positions or rouges. 
 
 Mm [% 
 
 Canton Flannel Buff. Atlas Buff's. 
 
 Canton Flannel Buffs. — These are very soft and fine 
 and are chiefly used in finishing solid or plated silver, 
 gold, or on metals where a very high finish is desired. 
 
 They are charged while in motion with g'old or silver 
 rouge or the fine white polishing compounds. 
 
 Brown Atlas Buffs.— These buffs are made from 
 pieces of unbleached muslin cloth, sewed in sections 
 about Y\ inch thick. They are a general utility buff, 
 having considerable latitude. They are rigid enough 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 85 
 
 for cutting- clown spun and sheet brass work, being used 
 by lamp and chandelier makers ; yet they are flexible 
 enough 'to conform to the compound curves encountered 
 in this class of work. They are also suitable for making 
 up into polishing- wheels by cementing- together several 
 sections and setting- up with glue and emery. They can 
 then be used for roughing- out stove work and other iron 
 castings. 
 
 Bristle Wheel, also Tampico Wheel. 
 
 Bleached Atlas Buffs. — These buffs are made from 
 pieces of bleached muslin cloth, sewed in sections about 
 J4 inch thick. They are very superior buffs in general 
 use for almost all metal lines, being especially adapted 
 for cutting down on all kinds of brass work, such as 
 brass beds, brass castings, etc., which have previously 
 
86 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 had one polishing operation. They are also largely used 
 for cutting down spun copper and heavily nickel-plated 
 parts, such as stove work, telephone parts, builders' hard- 
 ware, etc. 
 
 Bristle and Tampico Wheels. — These are often used 
 for cleaning the work after polishing by keeping them 
 wet with water while in operation. 
 
 The larger sizes are used with water and pumice stone 
 or special compositions for producing different old brass 
 or similar effects, and with emery compositions for pol- 
 ishing iron and steel. 
 
 Scratch Brushes. 
 
 Scratch Brushes. — Brass and steel scratch brushes 
 are used for cleaning castings and for producing satin 
 finish or matte effects. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 87 
 
 They are also used for beating- down or burnishing- the 
 metal at times when the deposit does not properly adhere. 
 
 Scratch brushes should be 
 used with a small stream of 
 soap bark solution ( 1 ounce 
 of soap bark to I gallon of 
 water) or stale beer flowing 
 on them. This can be ar- 
 ranged by suspending above 
 the lathe a can with a faucet 
 to which has been attached a 
 small rubber tube. 
 
 Speed of Scratch Brushes. — No exact speed can be 
 stated at which scratch brushes should be run. This 
 depends entirely upon the class of work to be finished, 
 on the diameter of the brush, and the size and kind of 
 wire of which it is made. 
 
 In nearly all cases where complaints have been made 
 of the wire breaking, it has been found that the speed 
 has been entirely too fast, or the brushes have not been 
 properly used. The coarser the wire the slower the 
 speed should be. 
 
 Speed anywhere from 500 to 2,000 r. p. m., depending 
 on circumstances. 
 
88 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTROPLATING, 
 
 Emery. — This is used in many different grades in 
 setting up the polishing wheels for various operations, 
 and should be contained in a long narrow box or trough 
 in which the wheels may be rolled while the glue is hot. 
 
 See directions for use, page 94- 
 
 Glue. — This is furnished either 
 in flake or ground form, and is 
 used while hot for facing the 
 various polishing wheels before 
 rolling them in the emery. 
 
 See directions for use, page 99- 
 
 Glue Brushes, Rubberset. — 
 
 These are used to apply the glue 
 to the various polishing wheels. 
 
 Always use the best glue brush obtainable ; it is poor 
 economy to try to save a few cents on this article. 
 
 Rubberset Glue Brush. 
 
 The rubberset glue brush is by far the best; the bristles 
 are imbedded in solid rubber on which the required heat 
 has no effect and the bristles cannot come out. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 89 
 
 A low priced brush generally proves to be very expen- 
 sive in the end; the bristles will come out, stick to the glue 
 and emery, and spoil what otherwise would be a first- 
 class wheel, making- it necessary to clean the wheel and 
 do the job again, thus losing much time and patience. 
 
 Do not leave the brush in the glue ; keep it in clean 
 water when not in use. 
 
 New brushes should be worked out a little on a rough 
 board in order to release any short, loose bristles that 
 may not have been imbedded in the rubber. 
 
 Buffing. — "Buffing" is the trade 
 term given to the operation of cut- 
 ting- down the metal by the use of 
 muslin or similar wheels charged 
 with the various compositions, in 
 order to bring the metal to the 
 proper state for plating or other 
 purposes. 
 
 Polishing Compositions. — The following descrip- 
 tions are intended to give only a general idea of several 
 gTades of compositions and their uses. They are also 
 used for many other polishing purposes. 
 
 Emery Paste. — This is a composition containing 
 emery. It is made in several grades according to the 
 
9Q PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 grade of emery used. It is used with muslin buffs on 
 brass and copper for quick cutting, and the finer grades 
 are often used on grease wheels. See page 95. 
 
 It is also used with bristle or tampico wheels for cutting 
 down and polishing iron and steel. 
 
 F. F. Composition. — This is a composition containing 
 crocus and fine emery. It is used on muslin buff wheels 
 and bristle or tampico wheels for cutting down iron and 
 steel. It is very sharp and quick cutting. 
 
 Crocus Composition. — This is made in several grades 
 and is used on muslin buff wheels to produce a smooth 
 finished surface on brass or copper. 
 
 It is also used with oil or grease on bristle or tampico 
 wheels for iron or steel. 
 
 Crocus composition has the property of both cutting 
 and polishing. 
 
 Tripoli Composition. — This is made in various grades 
 and is used on muslin buff wheels for cutting down and 
 polishing brass, bronze, britannia, and other metals pre- 
 paratory to plating. 
 
 Coloring. — "Coloring" is the trade term given to the 
 operation of finishing or producing the final high polish 
 to metals, by the use of soft muslin, canton flannel, felt, 
 or other wheels charged with the finer compositions or 
 rouges. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 91 
 
 XXX Buffing Composition. — For use 
 on muslin, canton flannel buffs, or felt 
 wheels to finish all metals where a high 
 color is required, and especially for work 
 that is engraved or ornamented, where 
 the red rouge is objectionable. 
 
 Essex Lime Composition. — For use on 
 muslin, canton flannel buffs, or felt 
 wheels, to produce a high color on nickel. It also gives 
 excellent results when used on brass or copper. 
 
 Rouge. — Hard rouge is made in several grades, as 
 follows : nickel, brass, 'silver, and gold. 
 
 These are used on muslin, canton flannel buffs, or felt 
 wheels, to obtain a high color on the various metals, as 
 their names imply. 
 
 XX XX Polishing Compound. — This is an extra fine 
 polishing material, used for silver and silver plated ware. 
 It is made from pure white stock, leaving the work prac- 
 tically clean, and doing away with the necessity of 
 further washing. 
 
 Electric Steel Finish, in Cartons. — Quick cutting, 
 for high finish on steel. 
 
 This should be used on leather wheels, or leather-cov- 
 ered wood wheels, when finishing smooth work, or on 
 bristle or tampico wheels for rough brass or steel. 
 
92 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Old Brass Finish Composition, in Cake Form. — ■ 
 This will produce the genuine old-brass finish effect. It 
 should be used on bristle or tampico wheels running at 
 about i, 800 to 2,000 revolutions per minute. 
 
 Good results may also be obtained when used on a soft 
 buff about 9 inches diameter, at a speed of about 2,000 
 revolutions per minute. 
 
 Black Rouge, Hard, in Cakes. — This is an excellent 
 polishing material for use on hard rubber, horn, celluloid, 
 and other materials where the regular red rouge or 
 lighter color compositions are objectionable. 
 
SECTION m. 
 POLISHING DIRECTIONS. 
 
 The only rule to follow in polishing- metals is to finish 
 the work so that it is perfectly smooth and entirely free 
 from scratches or any other imperfections, as these will 
 show very plainly after plating. Consequently great 
 care must be taken in this branch of the work. 
 
 If the work is unusually rough, a coarse grade of 
 emery should be used for the first or roughing-out proc- 
 ess. Articles having a fairly smooth surface may be 
 roughed out with emery of a much finer grade. 
 
 It is advisable to first do all the roughing out on a job 
 before doing any work on the finer grade wheels, and 
 continue in this manner with each successive finer grade 
 wheel until the entire job has been properly polished. 
 The work can be done much quicker in this manner and 
 without the necessity of frequently changing- the wheels. 
 
 Polishing Various Metals. — The finest work is done 
 by a four wheel operation; good work can often be done 
 with three wheels, while some classes require only two. 
 
 The following table will give a general idea of the 
 various grades of emery to use on polishing wheels, in 
 
 93 
 
94 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 their respective order, to obtain a fine finish on different 
 metals. It must, however, be understood that the grades 
 given are approximate only, as all depends on the origi- 
 nal condition of the metals and the quality of the finish 
 desired. 
 
 Metals. Approximate Grades of Emery. 
 
 Cast iron (soft) 
 
 Nos. 90, 120, iso (180 grease). 
 Malleable iron. ) y ' ' D - b J 
 
 Cast iron (hard). Nos. 70, 90, 120 (180 grease). 
 
 Rough steel. ") 
 
 -^ r • ' I Nos. 60, 90, 120 (180 grease). 
 Drop forgmgs. : ) 
 
 Smooth steel. Nos. 120, 180 (180 grease). 
 
 Cast brass. ) 
 
 ~ ; l NOS. 90, 120. 
 
 Cast copper. ) 
 
 Cutlery. Nos. 90, 120, 180 (flour grease). 
 
 Setting up Polishing Wheels with Emery. — Give 
 the face of the wheel a good, even coating of hot glue 
 with a glue brush. 
 
 Put the emery in a narrow, low box or trough. 
 
 Place a short, round stick through the arbor hole of 
 the wheel, roll the wheel in the emery, giving consider- 
 able pressure, until the glue has taken up all the emery 
 it will hold ; scrape off the glue and emery from the 
 edges of the wheel. Then hang the wheel up to dry. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 95 
 
 Extra heavy coatings can be obtained by repeating the 
 above operations. The wheels must be perfectly clean 
 and free from grease before applying the glue, or it will 
 not hold. 
 
 Emery Trotigh. Made of Cast Iron in One Piece. 
 
 Too much care cannot be given in keeping the several 
 grades of emery entirely separate, as the slightest mix- 
 ture will cause considerable trouble and expense in loss 
 of time in resetting the wheels. 
 
 Grease Wheels for Extra Fine Finish. — Grease 
 wheels of all kinds are prepared as above, using only 
 No. 1 20 emery or finer grades. 
 
 The wheels should then be used just enough to remove 
 the sharpness. 
 
 An old, fine grade wheel with a perfectly smooth face 
 may also be used for this purpose. 
 
 While the wheel is in motion apply, with a rag, some 
 tallow or tripoli composition; oil is sometimes used and 
 very often a fine grade emery paste. 
 
g6 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Dry Fining. — Work requiring- a finer finish than that 
 given by the grease wheel may be gone over again by the 
 same wheel without using the grease. 
 
 A piece of charcoal, properly applied to the wheel 
 while in motion, is the best way to remove the grease 
 previous to dry fining. The face of the wheel should 
 then be cleaned off with a cloth. A piece of lump pumice 
 stone will sharpen all emery wheels of No. ibo grade or 
 finer, that have become glazed. 
 
 To sharpen wheels of coarser grades than No. ioo, 
 use a coarse carborundum stone, or a coarse emery buff 
 stick. 
 
 Many kinds of wheels, such as canvas, bull-neck, wal- 
 rine, and felt, may have the face shaped by rounding or 
 grooving to fit the work. When grinding a large quan- 
 tity of odd-shaped work of a like kind, this method will 
 be found useful in saving time as well as in having the 
 work more uniform when finished. 
 
 Setting up Endless Emery Belts. — Place the belt 
 over the end of a bench (this allows the slack to remain 
 out of the way) and apply the glue with a glue brush, 
 working it in well while hot. Cover the belt with emery 
 and roll it into the glue by using a wooden or iron roller. 
 
 The above should be done in short sections, continuing 
 until the belt is completed. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 97 
 
 Then hang- the belt up to dry. 
 
 When the belt has become worn it can be sharpened 
 while running by using lump pumice stone. 
 
 To clean oft* the old glue and emery, use a carborun- 
 dum stone or buff stick. 
 
 Cross Cutting. — When finishing work on emery 
 wheels each successive operation, when possible, should 
 be done so that the wheels cut the marks left on the work- 
 crosswise until all marks left by the previous wheel have 
 been removed. 
 
 This is necessary in order to produce first-class work. 
 
 Balancing Wheels.— It is very important that all pol- 
 ishing wheels be carefully balanced, otherwise it is almost 
 impossible to obtain good results. An unbalanced wheel 
 will pound and clatter, causing the face of the wheel to 
 run very unevenly, and. when the work comes in contact 
 with the wheel, it will cause the emery to wear off quickly 
 in spots. 
 
 The wheels may be tested for balancing by using two 
 parallel, sharp, straight edges. These must set perfectly 
 level and should be placed on a rigid bench. Cut a slot 
 in the bench between them to receive the wheel; use a 
 short mandrel that just fits the hole in the wheel, then, 
 when placed on the straight edges, the heavy side of the 
 
gS PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 wheel will roll to the lowest point. Mark the wheel at 
 the highest point, and screw on the side of same a small 
 piece of sheet lead. Test the wheel again. If too much 
 lead has been put on, it can easily be cut off. Do not 
 hurry. Have patience and do the work well. 
 
 Emery Buff Sticks. — Emery buff sticks are used to 
 remove old emery and glue from all polishing wheels, 
 excepting leather-covered wood wheels; to clean these 
 wheels properly in this manner requires considerable 
 experience and skill, otherwise the leather covering will 
 be quickly ruined. These should be cleaned in a regular 
 polishing wheel cleaner. 
 
 The emery buff sticks can be made by using a stout 
 stick set up with several coatings of glue and emery, from 
 about No. 12 to No. 24. These, when held against the 
 face of the wheel while in motion, will soon cut off all 
 of the old material. Care must be taken not to give too 
 much pressure or the friction will cause the face of the 
 wheel to burn. 
 
 Emery sticks may also be used in cleaning off buff 
 wheels and endless emery polishing belts. 
 
 Polishing Wheel Cleaner. — These machines are par- 
 ticularly useful for removing old emery and glue from 
 leather-covered wood polishing wheels. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 99 
 
 They are constructed with a zinc-lined water com- 
 partment. Fill the compartment with water until it just 
 touches the wooden rollers. Then, by placing- a worn 
 wheel on the rollers and allowing the machine to run for 
 a short time, all of the glue and emery will be removed 
 without damaging or loosening the leather covering. 
 
 Polishing Wheel Cleaner. 
 
 The rollers carry just enough water to properly feed 
 
 the face of the wheel, and the friction caused by the 
 
 weight of the wheel revolving n the rollers quickly 
 forces off the emery and glue. 
 
 Glue. — Directions for Using: Always use the best 
 glue obtainable. It is false economy to use a cheap article, 
 as this often means a considerable loss of time in setting 
 up the wheels, and in glue and emery wasted. 
 
IOO 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Always soak flat glue in cold water 
 over night, or for several hours. 
 
 The proper length of time depends 
 on the size and thickness of the glue. 
 
 Ground glue should soak from 15 to 
 20 minutes. 
 
 Applying hot water to dry glue 
 
 scalds it and prevents its adhesiveness. 
 
 After the glue has been properly soaked it may be 
 
 cooked in the steam heater or pot until it becomes a 
 
 smooth flowing liquid. 
 
 Do not cook it longer than absolutely necessary, as 
 prolonged cooking injures its strength. 
 
 It is a good plan to prepare only a sufficient quantity 
 for immediate use. 
 
 Always keep the pot and brush clean. Do not leave 
 the brush in the glue, but keep it in clean water. 
 
 Tumbling Barrels. — A good tumbling barrel is of 
 great advantage in metal finishing operations, both 
 before and after plating, when it is necessary to smooth 
 or polish large quantities of small work, such as rings, 
 buckles, buttons, and articles ol a similar character, not 
 having square corners or edges which must be preserved. 
 
 Articles that are required to be finished with sharp 
 corners cannot be treated in this manner. 
 
PRACTICAL ELEC FRO-PLATING. 
 
 IOI 
 
 By the use of a tumbling barrel much time and la*bor 
 can be saved. When the work is placed in the barrel, 
 and it is set in motion, no further attention is needed 
 until the work is read\- to be removed, except at times 
 it is necessary to examine the work to see how it is pro- 
 gressing. Thus the workman may attend to other mat- 
 ters about the shop, while the polishing continues. 
 
 Horizontal Tumbling Barrel. 
 
 The barrels are built in several shapes and sizes, for 
 both dry or wet tumbling. 
 
 For dry tumbling a great variety of material is used, 
 leather meal, cut leather, sawdust, flint, etc. The proper 
 article to use depends entirely on the class of work and 
 the finish required. 
 
 For wet tumbling, solutions of cleaning compounds, 
 borax soap, etc., are used, and often in connection with 
 
T02 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 polished steel balls. The very best results can be 
 obtained in the latter manner by using- a barrel lined 
 with sheet brass. 
 
 Experience will demonstrate the quantity of cutting or 
 polishing material to use,. as well as the quantity of work 
 to put in each batch. The speed must be slow so that 
 the work will tumble freely, 45 to 60 r. p. m. being the 
 
 Tilting Oblique Tumbling Barrel. 
 
 speeds generally used. A high speed cannot be used, as 
 the work will cling to the side of the barrel and revolve 
 with it without effect. 
 
 The horizontal barrel is well adapted for heavy or very 
 bulky work. 
 
 The tilting oblique barrel is a style largely used for 
 both dry or wet tumbling. The barrel is open at the top, 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. IO3 
 
 and is so constructed that it may be easily tilted to quickly 
 empty the contents into a bucket or box. The work can 
 also be examined at any time during the operation with- 
 out stopping the machine. 
 
 Leather Meal, Used for Dry Tumbling Barrel 
 Polishing. — This is made from selected leather, ground 
 into a perfectly smooth and fluffy meal, which, when used 
 for polishing in a dry tumbling barrel, will accomplish 
 more work and produce better results than any other 
 material used for this purpose. It is equally efficient on 
 light or heavy work and does not roll or mat into balls or 
 cakes. It is cool, clean, and very durable. 
 
 The meal may be used in the same manner as any other 
 material, although it is so very light it will not make the 
 same weight for its bulk as scrap leather, sawdust, etc. 
 
 Experience will demonstrate the best quantity to use, 
 too much of it being a hindrance instead of a help. It 
 may be used over and over again, and if kept in a dry 
 condition it does not lose its good qualities. Keep the 
 barrel filled with a uniform quantity, replenishing what 
 may be lost when opening the barrel and changing the 
 work. 
 
 The meal gives excellent results in all cases, with one 
 exception, and that is when the work is open, or of tubn- 
 
104 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 lar formation, allowing- the meal to pack and fill up the 
 spaces. For work of this character it is advisable to use 
 cut leather. 
 
 Cut Leather. — This is made from a very fine quality 
 leather cut into pieces about one inch square, and is used 
 for tumbling- barrel polishing in the same manner as the 
 leather meal. 
 
 Floated Silica. — This is one of the finest polishing 
 powders known and can be used to great advantage in 
 many ways in the polishing shop. It is a very light- 
 weight material, white in color, perfectly clean, and will 
 not stain or smut the work. It will be found excellent 
 for dry tumbling barrel polishing, when a small quantity 
 is added to the leather meal or cut leather. 
 
 Steel Balls, Used for Tumbling Barrel Polishing. — 
 Many large manufacturing Companies are now success- 
 fully polishing small metal articles such as buckles, but 1 
 tons, rings, etc., by the use of steel balls in horizontal 
 tumbling barrels. It is claimed by this method they save 
 time, labor, and expense. 
 
 Tumbling barrels, when used for this purpose, must 
 be perfectly smooth inside, or they may be lined with 
 sheet brass, which is much better. The metal pieces are 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. IO5 
 
 tumbled preparatory to plating, and after they have 
 received the metallic deposit they are again put through 
 the operation, with the result that they come from the 
 barrel in a highly burnished and polished condition, 
 nearly equal to that of buffing. The proper quantity of 
 balls to use for best results should be about double the 
 quantity of work. The smallest sized balls are used for 
 the purpose of reaching the crevices and hollow places 
 where the larger sizes cannot enter. The proper size of 
 balls to use depends upon the class of work to be pol- 
 ished. Mixed sizes may often be used, however, to good 
 advantage. 
 
 The articles should be tumbled before and after plating 
 in a solution of borax soap, as this has no ill effect on 
 the work or balls. Ordinary soap should not be used, as 
 it injures both the work and steel balls. 
 
 After the articles have received the desired polish they 
 may be separated from the balls by being dumped into a 
 riddle having a mesh coarse enough to allow the balls to 
 pass through, but not the articles. The articles may then 
 be placed in wire or stoneware dipping baskets and 
 cleaned in the usual manner. 
 
SECTION IV. 
 
 PREPARATION OF WORK BEFORE 
 PLATING. 
 
 In all electro-plating operations the articles to be plated 
 must be perfectly smooth and free from even the slight- 
 est scratches or imperfections, as these will show very 
 plainly after plating. They must then always be dipped 
 and rinsed until all traces of grease or foreign matter are 
 removed, before being placed in the plating solution. 
 
 The higher the polish of the article the finer the finish 
 will be after plating. 
 
 To accomplish this result, the articles must, with few 
 exceptions, be put through a series of operations in the 
 following described order : — 
 
 Order of Operations in Handling the Work. 
 
 1. Pickle to remove scale, sand, or rust. 
 
 2. Emery wheel to remove burrs or imperfections. 
 
 3. Polishing wheels set up with glue and emery 
 
 (various grades). 
 
 4. Buff wheel to remove scratches left by polishing 
 
 wheels. 
 
 5. Coloring wheel to produce fine finish. 
 
 6. Kostico or lye dip to remove grease. 
 
 107 
 
Io8 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 7. Rinse in cold water to remove Kostico. 
 
 8. Scour with brush and fine pumice. 
 
 9. Rinse in cold water to remove pumice. 
 
 10. Acid clip to remove oxide (for iron and steel). 
 
 1 1 . Cyanide dip to remove oxide ( for brass, copper, 
 
 silver, and gold). 
 
 12. Rinse in cold water to remove acid or cyanide, 
 
 then pass to the plating- solution. 
 
 The exact kind, number, and routine of operations 
 necessary of course depend on the condition of the 
 article when received in the shop, and the finish required. 
 This to a certain extent must be determined by the judg- 
 ment of the operator. 
 
 When handling articles of iron or steel omit operation 
 No. 11. 
 
 When handling articles of brass or copper omit opera- 
 tion No. 10. 
 
 When articles of brass or copper are highly polished 
 omit operation No. 8. 
 
 When replating old work it is necessary to remove all 
 of the old plate until the base metal is in the same con- 
 dition as it originally was before having been plated. 
 
 Scouring and Cleaning. — Articles of iron or steel, 
 after having received a fine finish in the polishing room, 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. IO9 
 
 must be given a thorough scouring- and cleaning before 
 they are ready to be plated. It is absolutely necessary 
 that this be done with great care. They should be wired 
 or put in earthenware or wire dipping baskets, then sus- 
 pended in a hot Kostico or XXX lye dip, and allowed 
 to remain for about to to 15 minutes. This is for the 
 purpose of removing any oil or grease that is sure to 
 adhere to them. Then rinse thoroughly in cold water 
 and scour with tine powdered pumice and water, using a 
 plater's scouring brush; rinse again in cold water, then 
 dip in a muriatic acid dip. This is for the purpose of 
 removing any oxide that may have formed. Fvinse again 
 in cold water and pass the articles to the plating solution 
 while wet. before they have a chance to dry in the air, or 
 oxidization will quickly take place. 
 
 Articles of brass and copper that have been highly 
 buffed should be dipped in the Kostico or XXX lye dip, 
 or they may be scrubbed with these solutions using a 
 Tampico scrub brush. This is for the purpose of remov- 
 ing oil or grease. Then rinse in cold water, after which 
 they should be dipped in a cyanide of potash dip to 
 remove oxide, again rinsed in cold water, then placed in 
 the plating tank. 
 
 When the articles are properly cleaned water will 
 adhere to them evenly all over; if the water adheres only 
 
110 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 in spots they are not perfectly clean and must be treated 
 again. 
 
 Preparing Non-metallic Surfaces to Receive a Metal- 
 lic Deposit. — Non-metallic surfaces may be treated in 
 the following- manner to prepare them to readily receive 
 a metallic deposit. 
 
 This applies to articles of glass, porcelain, wood and 
 plaster, insects, leaves, flowers, etc. 
 
 Materials Required. — Lacquer or shellac varnish, 
 electrotypers' varnish, electrotypers' plumbago, camel's- 
 hair lacquer brush. 
 
 The work should first be given a coating of lacquer or 
 shellac varnish, then allowed to dry. (If it is of wood, 
 care should be taken that the grain be first well filled. ) 
 
 It should then be given an even coating of electro- 
 typers' varnish; this will dry in a few minutes, after 
 which apply the electrotypers' plumbago, using a dry 
 camel's-hair brush. Give a careful and even coating and 
 be sure that every part of the surface is well covered. 
 
 The work may then be wired in the usual manner and 
 placed in the plating solution. 
 
 The action of the deposit may be hastened by metal- 
 lizing the surface over the plumbago. This is done by 
 sprinkling it freely with very fine iron filings, on which 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. Ill 
 
 should be poured a solution of blue vitriol and water. 
 Brush this gently over the work using a soft lacquer 
 brush. 
 
 The action of the blue vitriol on the iron will cause a 
 copper precipitate or film on the surface, to which the 
 electro-deposit will take more readily than when depos- 
 ited direct on the plumbago. 
 
 The article should be rinsed in clean cold water and 
 placed in the plating solution. 
 
 An acid copper solution should be used for this purpose 
 as it will deposit more rapidly than any other. 
 
 In a short time the article will take on a slight copper 
 deposit in places. This will gradually creep until the 
 entire surface is covered. This deposit may be made any 
 thickness desired, depending upon the time it is allowed 
 to remain in the solution. 
 
 When the article has received a fair deposit it may be 
 buffed and cleaned, after which it may be treated by any 
 of the usual methods. 
 
 Electrotypers'" varnish is superior to other compounds 
 used for this purpose, for the reason that, after it has 
 been applied to the work, the surface will always remain 
 in a suitable condition to readily take and hold the plum- 
 bago. 
 
SECTION V. 
 
 PLATING SOLUTIONS AND VARIOUS 
 FINISHES. 
 
 When making- and operating plating solutions the fol- 
 lowing important points should be considered: — 
 
 ist, formula. 
 
 2d, the use of pure chemicals. 
 
 3d, the use of pure water. 
 
 4th, order of mixing*. 
 
 5th, temperature. 
 
 6th, specific gravity, Baume scale. 
 
 7th, anode surface. 
 
 8th, current pressure or voltage. 
 
 9th, quantity of" current or amperes. 
 
 10th, renewing. 
 
 In nearly all cases where the operator experiences 
 trouble and fails to obtain proper results when pure 
 chemicals are used, the causes may be traced to the 
 improper cleaning- of the work before plating, careless- 
 ness in handling the work or in making the solutions. 
 
 113 
 
114 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 In all solutions used during cold weather trouble is 
 experienced in the crystallization of the salts. All cold 
 solutions should be maintained at a temperature of Jo° 
 to 8o° Fahrenheit; at this temperature denser and more 
 highly conductive solutions may be used, thus shortening 
 the time of deposit and giving better results. A loop 
 of lead steam pipe in the solution will be sufficient to 
 supply the necessary heat. 
 
 The pipe entering and returning from the tank should 
 be insulated from the heating system with insulating 
 joints. 
 
 The anodes must be kept clean. 
 
 Care must be taken to see that all points of contact 
 are kept clean and bright; the anode and work rods, as 
 well as the loop of the anode hook, should be rubbed at 
 intervals with emery cloth to remove any corrosion that 
 may have formed. 
 
 A strip of thin sheet lead may be bent in U-shape and 
 placed over the entire length of the anode rods, or a split 
 rubber hose may be used; this will keep the drippings 
 from the solution from interfering with the contact of 
 the anode hooks on the positive rods. 
 
 When nickel-plating articles of iron or steel, although 
 not always necessary, the very best finish may be obtained 
 by first giving them a slight deposit of copper. The 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. II5 
 
 articles should then be buffed with a soft buff and fine 
 coloring- composition, after which they are dipped in the 
 Kostico or lye, rinsed iii cold water, then given a cyanide 
 dip, again rinsed in cold water and placed in the nickel 
 tank. After they receive the proper deposit they are 
 ready for the final coloring or finishing. 
 
 Articles of a hollow formation, or those containing 
 grooves or recesses, while being placed in the solution 
 should be given a slight swinging or twisting motion, in 
 order to release any air bubbles that may adhere to them. 
 If air bubbles are not allowed to escape they will seri- 
 ously interfere with the deposit. 
 
 Articles having a deep, hollow, cup-like formation can- 
 not well be plated on the inside in the regular manner, 
 for the reason that the deposit will not penetrate or 
 "throw" to the required distance, this being prevented by 
 the surface nearest the anodes, which more readily 
 attracts the deposit. These places may be plated by 
 arranging a small anode inside the hollow space. 
 
 The inside of bowls, pitchers, pots, etc., that cannot 
 be plated in the regular solution tank, may be plated by 
 using the vessel itself as a solution container. 
 
 The vessel should be placed on a non-conducting sur- 
 face and filled with solution. The anode should then be 
 suspended from the positive wire in the solution and the 
 negative wire connected to the outside of the vessel. 
 
Il6 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 The length of time that the articles should remain in 
 the various plating solutions depends on general condi- 
 tions and the thickness of the deposit required. All con- 
 ditions being proper, a good deposit of metal in the 
 various still-plating solutions should be obtained as fol- 
 lows : — 
 
 Solution. Time of Deposit. 
 
 Nickel, about 30 to 45 minutes. 
 
 Cyanide copper, about 20 to 30 minutes. 
 
 Acid copper, about 15 to 20 minutes. 
 
 Brass, about 20 to 30 minutes. 
 
 Zinc, about 20 to 30 minutes. 
 
 Silver, about 30 to 45 minutes. 
 
 Gold, about 10 to 15 minutes. 
 
 Time Dial. — To denote the time of removing work 
 from the plating tanks. 
 
 These will be found of great assistance to the busy 
 operator. They should be placed near the tank, and, 
 when the work is put in the solution, the hands should be 
 set at the time when it is to be removed. 
 
 Nickel Solution. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water • • 1 gallon. 
 
 Nickel salts K pound. 
 
 Solution should stand at 6y 2 to 7° Baume. 
 Use a current pressure of about 2 volts. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 117 
 
 Fill the tank with the quantity of water required, sus- 
 pend the nickel salts in coarse muslin or burlap bags just 
 below the surface: if the solution to be made is a large 
 one, use several bags. A large quantity of salts will 
 dissolve in this manner in a comparatively short time and 
 without any attention. This will be found much more 
 convenient than the old method of using live steam. 
 
 
 
 II / , 
 
 Time Dial. 
 
 Pure cast nickel anodes should be used. The elliptic 
 shape is the best; flat anodes, however, are often used 
 and answer the purpose very well. As the solution does 
 not act upon the anodes without the use of an electrical 
 current, they may be allowed to remain in the solution 
 when not in use. 
 
 Nickel salts are a combination of sulphate of nickel 
 
Il8 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 and ammonia. Nickel sulphate is not a good conductor, 
 but furnishes the metallic properties of the solution, 
 while the sulphate of ammonia is a good conductor and 
 aids in this respect, consequently the combination of the 
 two qualities produce the desired result. 
 
 A nickel solution will deposit freely from the solution 
 itself; this makes it necessary to use a large anode sur- 
 face in order that the solution may be fed from the . 
 anodes to replace that which has been taken up by the 
 cathodes, or the solution will be constantly in an impov- 
 erished condition making it necessary to frequently add 
 more nickel salts. 
 
 The anodes should be long enough to reach to or 
 below the lowest point of the largest work. The tank 
 should be deep enough to allow at least 6 inches between 
 the lowest point of the anodes and the bottom of the tank. 
 
 Elliptic anodes should be placed in the tank about 2 
 or 3 to each foot (no less than 2). 
 
 Flat anodes may be placed from 2 to 4 inches apart; 
 this is optional, provided there is enough space left 
 between them to allow for a free circulation of the solu- 
 tion. 
 
 The distance between the anodes and cathode, or work 
 to be plated, should not be less than about ^A inches 
 and not more than about 6 inches. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. II9 
 
 Too large an anode surface, when used with a strong 
 current, will often cause the solution to become alkaline. 
 
 In all plating operations a weak current will produce 
 a fine, close, and homogeneous deposit, while a strong 
 current produces a more open, porous, or spongy deposit. 
 The most suitable current pressure for nickel plating is 
 about 2 volts in the tank. 
 
 The quantity of current required for nickel plating is 
 about 4 amperes per square foot of work surface (the 
 term "work surface" meaning all surface exposed to the 
 action of the current). 
 
 Nickel solutions should be slightly acid, but too much 
 acid will cause the deposit to peel. Too much alkali 
 will cause a dark deposit. These conditions may be 
 easily determined by the use of litmus paper. Blue lit- 
 mus paper turns red if a solution contains free acid, 
 while red litmus paper turns blue if free alkali is present. 
 
 If the solution is acid and stands below 6 l / 2 ° Baume 
 it has been stripped of metal ; it may then be brought to 
 its proper condition by adding single sulphate of nickel. 
 This should be dissolved in water, then stirred into the 
 solution until the proper amount of metal has been put 
 in, as can be determined by the hydrometer. 
 
 If the solution is rich in metal and registers 6y 2 ° 
 Baume and is too acid, it may be remedied by adding 
 carbonate of ammonia first dissolved in water. 
 
120 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 If the solution is alkaline and will not take up more 
 nickel salts, it may be made slightly acid by adding 
 boracic acid dissolved in hot water. 
 
 The articles should receive a thin deposit in 2 or 3 
 minutes without generating much gas; this can be 
 detected by small bubbles coming slowly and regularly 
 from the surface of the articles. If the articles throw 
 off a great number of bubbles and are immediately cov- 
 ered with a thick white deposit, which soon changes to a 
 dull gray, particularly noticeable at the edges and cor- 
 ners, the current pressure is too strong and should be 
 reduced with the tank rheostat. 
 
 "Burning the work" is the term applied when the 
 deposit begins white and gradually turns through a gray 
 to black ; this indicates too strong a current pressure. 
 
 If too strong a current is used, though not strong 
 enough to burn the work, the deposit will peel or blister, 
 and will not stand the necessary buffing. 
 
 If, after the articles have been in the solution for a 
 few minutes, they gradually turn dark without receiving 
 any deposit, the current is too weak. This may be reme- 
 died by the tank rheostat allowing a stronger current to 
 flow into the tank, or by reducing the amount of work 
 in the tank. 
 
 If the voltmeter indicates that a suitable current is 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 121 
 
 flowing into the tank and the deposit is spotted, off color, 
 or streaked, the solution is alkaline, contains too much 
 or not enough metal. It should then be tested with a 
 hydrometer and litmus paper. 
 
 If both the current and solution prove by test to be 
 right and the deposit does not proceed properly, the work- 
 has not been properly cleaned, has been slighted in some 
 manner, or has been handled or allowed to dry after 
 cleaning. 
 
 If the deposit is good in quality but shows small holes 
 or pits, it is an indication that a coating of dust was on 
 the surface of the solution, some of which adhered to 
 the article when it was placed in the tank. 
 
 The articles should be placed in the solution tank in 
 such a manner that they will receive a direct and free 
 circulation of current from the anodes. They must not 
 be allowed to touch each other or the work will come out 
 showing uncoated streaks or spots. 
 
 The articles will only take on a deposit on the side 
 directly facing the anodes, consequently flat articles that 
 are to be plated on both sides should be suspended 
 between two rows of anodes, otherwise it will be neces- 
 sary to reverse the article after a deposit has been obtained 
 on one side. Large, round, or odd-shaped articles 
 should have the anodes arranged around them as nearly 
 equidistant as possible, 
 
122 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Long- articles should he suspended in the solution in a 
 horizontal position. 
 
 If it is necessary to suspend the articles vertically, 
 they should be reversed after having received half of 
 the required deposit. The reason for this is that the 
 deposit is taken more freely from the lower portion of 
 the anodes. 
 
 If the solution becomes chilled and salt crystals form 
 on the anodes and on the bottom and sides of the tank, 
 they should be scraped off, dissolved in hot water, and 
 returned to the solution. Give the anodes a bath in hot 
 water; this will remove all crystallization that adheres 
 to them and will cause them to deposit freely. 
 
 Absolute cleanliness is a necessity. 
 
 Keep the surface of the solution well skimmed. 
 
 When nickel solution becomes alkaline, thick, and 
 muddy, 2 ounces of boracic acid added to each gallon will 
 often remedy the trouble. The boracic acid should first 
 be dissolved in hot water. 
 
 A nickel deposit of almost any thickness required, may 
 be obtained when everything is in perfect order. 
 
 Articles requiring a dead white finish should be thor- 
 oughly rinsed in hot water, then swished in the air to 
 throw off any moisture that may remain on them. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 1 23 
 
 Solution Skimmers. — These will be found useful in 
 removing the light floating matter that accumulates so 
 rapidly on the surface of the plating solutions. 
 
 It is important that the surface of the solutions be kept 
 clean as a dirty solution is often the cause of poor work. 
 
 After using the skimmer dip in hot water and hang 
 it up to dry. 
 
 Solution Skimmer. 
 
 Single Sulphate of Nickel. — When an old nickel 
 solution becomes sluggish and alkaline, and the deposit 
 takes on a leaden color, a simple remedy is to add, after 
 stirring, 2 ounces of single sulphate of nickel to each 
 gallon ; this will clear the solution and whiten the deposit. 
 
 Boracic Acid. — Boracic acid is often used to remedy 
 nickel solutions that have become sluggish, muddy, and 
 alkaline and produce a lead color deposit. Use 2 ounces of 
 boracic acid, dissolved in hot water, to each gallon of 
 solution. This will have the effect of clearing the solu- 
 tion and whitening the deposit. 
 
124 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Capstone Nickel Solution, for Use with Mechanical 
 Plating- Barrels. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water i gallon. 
 
 Capstone nickel salts i pound. 
 
 Solution should stand at io° Baume. 
 
 Use a current pressure of 4 to 5 volts, when used as a 
 mechanical plating-barrel solution, and 1/2 to 2 volts, 
 when used as a still solution. 
 
 Capstone nickel salts is a special salt for making nickel 
 solution of high conductivity, and is particularly adapted 
 for use with mechanical plating- barrels, and for all opera- 
 tions where a quick bright deposit is required. 
 
 This salt is less liable to crystallize in cold weather 
 than the regular double nickel salts. It is made in pulver- 
 ized form, put up in muslin bags, and will readily dissolve 
 when suspended in the water or solution. 
 
 If the solution at any time does not produce as white 
 a deposit as it should, it may be improved by adding 2 
 ounces of boracic acid to each gallon. The boracic acid 
 should first be dissolved in hot water. 
 
 Black Nickel Solution No. 1, Producing a Gun Metal 
 
 Finish. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 1 gallon. 
 
 Plack nickel salts No. 1 U pound. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 125 
 
 Solution should stand at about 5 Baunie. 
 
 Use at about 80 ° Fahr. 
 
 Use a current pressure of from 1 to ij/j volts. 
 
 Use regular white nickel anodes. 
 
 The anode surface should not be more than one half 
 that of the cathode or work surface. 
 
 The anodes should occasionally be bright dipped. 
 
 The article to be plated should remain in the solution 
 for about 3 to 5 minutes, and as soon as the proper shade 
 is obtained it should be taken from the bath, dried, and 
 lacquered. 
 
 No. 1 brush lacquer is the best for this purpose as it 
 will not show iridescent colors. 
 
 Cast iron objects should first be brass, copper, or pref- 
 erably nickel plated before being placed in the bath. 
 
 The more highly polished the work the better the 
 results. 
 
 When the solution becomes impoverished it can be 
 revived by adding black nickel salts Xo. 1 until it stands 
 at 5 Baume. 
 
 Black Nickel Solution No. 2, Producing a Rich, Deep 
 Black Finish. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Soft water 1 gallon. 
 
 Black nickel salts No. 2 1 pound. 
 
126 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Stir occasionally before using. 
 
 Solution should stand at about io° Baume. 
 
 Use solution at 8o° Fahr. 
 
 Current pressure should not be more than I volt. 
 
 Use regular white nickel anodes. 
 
 The anode surface should not be more than one half 
 that of the cathode or work surface. 
 
 The anodes should occasionally be bright dipped. 
 
 While the work is being plated it will assume various 
 colors, changing from a straw color, through a blue to, 
 black. 
 
 If work shows white streaks the current is too strong, 
 or the anode, surf ace too large, or both. 
 
 As soon as the proper shade is obtained the work 
 should be taken from the bath, dried, and lacquered. 
 
 No. i brush lacquer is the best for this purpose as it 
 will not show iridescent colors. 
 
 Cast iron objects should first be brass, copper, or pref- 
 erably nickel plated before being placed in the bath. 
 
 Flexible articles, springs, safety pins, etc., should first 
 be slightly struck in white nickel. 
 
 The more highly polished the work the better the 
 results. 
 
 When the solution becomes impoverished it can be 
 revived by adding black nickel salts No. 2 until it stands 
 at io° Baume. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. \2J 
 
 Cyanide Copper Solution. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water i gallon. 
 
 Carbonate copper, dry % pound. 
 
 Carbonate soda % pound. 
 
 C. P. cyanide potash y z pound. 
 
 Add % ounce hyposulphite soda to each gallon of 
 solution for clarifying purposes. 
 
 Solution should stand at 12 Baume. 
 
 Use a current pressure of about y/2 to 4 volts. 
 
 Solution may be used cold or hot. 
 
 First dissolve all of the cyanide in nearly the full quan- 
 tity of water required, then dissolve the carbonate of soda 
 in this. 
 
 Mix the carbonate of copper in the water held in 
 reserve, until it forms a thin paste, then stir this paste in 
 the bulk of the solution, after which add the hyposulphite 
 of soda as a clarifier. 
 
 Cyanide copper solution when used with pure copper 
 anodes will cause a fine, smooth, and close-grained 
 deposit. 
 
 Cast or rolled copper anodes will give good results but 
 the best possible work can be obtained by using the pure 
 electrolytic copper. This solution is generally used cold; 
 if used hot the action will be somewhat hastened. 
 
 The solution is easy to operate and maintain. A 
 slight coating of copper given as a base to articles of 
 
128 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 iron or steel that are to be silver or gold plated, will be of 
 great benefit, as these metals will deposit readily, adhere 
 closer, look better, and wear longer over the copper than 
 if deposited directly on the iron or steel. 
 
 The anodes in a copper solution usually bear a slight 
 green coating. This is copper cyanide- and is soluble in 
 the free cyanide that the solution should contain. If this 
 coating becomes thick and the solution soon refuses to 
 deposit, it is an indication that the cyanide has been ex- 
 hausted. It is then necessary to add cyanide previously 
 dissolved in water, in small quantities, until the proper 
 amount has been put in. 
 
 If the articles throw off gas bubbles freely without 
 taking a deposit, the solution has been stripped of metal. 
 Carbonate of copper, previously mixed to a paste in 
 water, should then be stirred in. 
 
 Copper solution should be operated under a low current 
 pressure. If too strong a current is used the work will 
 blister. This can be regulated by the tank rheostat. If, 
 after reducing the current, the trouble still appears, add 
 more carbonate of copper. 
 
 All conditions being correct, articles left in a copper 
 solution will take on a smooth, fine, thick deposit for an 
 indefinite period, without showing any signs of blister- 
 ing. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 1 29 
 
 Ruby Copper Solution, Producing- a Rich, Ruby Red 
 Deposit on all Metals. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 1 gallon. 
 
 Ruby oxide 2 ounces. 
 
 Bisulphite soda 2 ounces. 
 
 C. P. cyanide potash 6 ounces. 
 
 Solution should stand at 6° Baume. 
 
 Use a current pressure of about y/> to 4 volts. 
 
 Solution may be used hot or cold. 
 
 Use pure electrolytic copper anodes. 
 
 First dissolve all of the cyanide in nearly the full quan- 
 tity of water required. Mix the ruby oxide in the water 
 held in reserve until it forms a thin paste, then stir this 
 paste in the bulk of the solution. Dissolve the bisulphite 
 of soda in a small quantity of water and add this to the 
 solution. 
 
 The advantage in using ruby copper solution is that 
 it will give a much deeper red deposit than it is possible 
 to obtain with carbonate solutions. It does not require 
 as large a quantity of material per gallon, and will pro- 
 duce a fine, smooth deposit without blistering. 
 
 When the solution becomes impoverished, it can be 
 renewed by adding the chemicals originally used in their 
 proper proportion as required. 
 
 Ruby oxide may also be used to good advantag-e in 
 
I3O PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 brass or bronze solutions, in place of carbonate of copper, 
 and with carbonate of zinc. The solutions will then pro- 
 duce much smoother and better shades of deposit than 
 the all-carbonate solutions, without danger of blistering. 
 
 Acid Copper Solution, also termed Duplex or Elec- 
 
 trotyping Solution. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 1 gallon. 
 
 Sulphate copper 26 ounces. 
 
 Sulphuric acid, by measure 2>% ounces. 
 
 Solution should stand at 18 Baume. 
 
 Use a current pressure of about 1 volt. 
 
 First dissolve the sulphate of copper in the water, then 
 add the sulphuric acid, stirring it in slowly. 
 
 Use only pure electrolytic copper anodes. 
 
 When the solution after use becomes impoverished, 
 and does not work properly, it can be renewed by adding 
 the original chemicals in their proper proportion as 
 required. 
 
 For many classes of work an acid copper solution is 
 the only one that will give the desired results. While the 
 solution is apparently simple to use, it requires consider- 
 able care in looking after many little details. 
 
 Acid copper solution cannot be used to plate directly 
 on iron, steel, or zinc, as these metals are electrically 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. I3I 
 
 opposed to copper, in the presence of sulphuric acid, 
 which at once starts a local action that throws off the 
 deposit as rapidly as it is formed. 
 
 When plating on iron, steel, or zinc, the articles should 
 first be given a slight coating of copper in a regular 
 cyanide copper solution, after which they will readily 
 take the acid copper deposit. 
 
 It is not always considered necessary when plating 
 articles of brass, bronze, or soft metals, to first give them 
 a coating in a cyanide copper solution, but it is safer and 
 better to do so, as the results will warrant the little extra 
 labor. 
 
 Cyanide copper solution is to a considerable extent 
 self-cleaning, due to the action of the cyanide on the 
 metal, while an acid copper solution is not at all self- 
 cleaning and any stains or finger marks left on the article, 
 when placed in the solution, will show very plainly after 
 receiving the deposit, as the copper will not adhere to or 
 cover the spots, consequently the articles must be cleaned 
 with the greatest care. 
 
 Acid copper solution will not "throw" or cause the 
 deposit to reach and cover deep recesses or hollow places 
 in the article, as freely as a cyanide copper solution. To 
 overcome this difficulty it is advisable to suspend a very 
 small anode quite close to the recess, or a piece of pure 
 copper wire can be used as an anode, this to be arranged 
 
132 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 to project into the recess. In this manner the deposit 
 can be placed where needed. 
 
 An acid copper solution will cause a much quicker 
 deposit than a cyanide solution, and for this reason it is 
 used in electrotyping" where it is necessary to obtain a 
 very heavy deposit in a short space of time. 
 
 Brass Solution. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water ,. i gallon. 
 
 Carbonate copper, dry i ounces. 
 
 Carbonate zinc, dry 2 ounces. 
 
 Carbonate soda 4 ounces. 
 
 Bisulphite soda 4 ounces. 
 
 C. P. cyanide potash 8 ounces. 
 
 Aqua ammonia, % gallon to 50 gallons of solution. 
 
 Solution should stand at 12 ° Baume. 
 
 Use a current pressure of about 2 J / 2 to 3^4 volts. 
 
 Solution may be used cold or hot. 
 
 First dissolve all of the cyanide in nearly the full quan- 
 tity of water required, then dissolve the carbonate of 
 soda in this. Mix the carbonate of copper and zinc in 
 the water held in reserve until they form a thin paste, 
 then stir this paste in the bulk of the solution, dissolve 
 the bisulphite of soda in a small quantity of water and 
 add this to the solution, after which add ]/\ of a gallon 
 of aqua ammonia to each 50 gallons of solution. 
 
 Brass solution is one of the most difficult to operate 
 and maintain, owing to the combination of the two metals 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 1 33 
 
 in the forms of carbonate of copper and carbonate of 
 zinc. 
 
 Brass solutions for producing" various shades may be 
 made by varying the amount of the carbonates of the 
 metals that are used. 
 
 Use only cast brass anodes, as the rolled brass is 
 harder and does not deposit so freely. 
 
 A strong current pressure will cause a light color 
 deposit, as it attacks the zinc more readily than the cop- 
 per, while a weak current will cause a red deposit for the 
 opposite reason, therefore a brass solution needs con- 
 stant attention and care or it will soon be stripped of one 
 or the other metals. 
 
 Brass solution, excepting the color of the deposit, is 
 similar to copper to operate and maintain, but consider- 
 able judgment must be used when renewing, in order 
 that the carbonates of the metals may be replaced in the 
 same proportion to that in which they have been removed. 
 
 Bronze Solution. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Soft water : i gallon. 
 
 Carbonate copper, dry -gA ounces. 
 
 Carbonate zinc, dry l A. ounce. 
 
 Carbonate soda. 4 ounces. 
 
 Bisulphite soda 4 ounces. 
 
 C. P. cyanide potash 8 ounces. 
 
 Aqua ammonia, % gallon to 50 gallons of solution. 
 
 Solution should stand at 12 ° Baume. 
 
134 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Use a current pressure of about 2^ to 3}4 volts. 
 
 Solution may be used cold or hot. 
 
 First dissolve all of the cyanide in nearly the full quan- 
 tity of water required, then dissolve the carbonate of soda 
 in this. Mix the carbonate of copper and zinc in the 
 water held in reserve until they form a thin paste, then 
 stir this paste in the bulk of the solution, dissolve the bi- 
 sulphite of soda in a small quantity of water and add this 
 to the solution, after which add %. of a gallon of aqua 
 ammonia to each 50 gallons of solution. 
 
 Use cast bronze anodes. 
 
 Bronze solution should be operated and maintained in 
 about the same manner as brass solution. They are 
 similar in all respects excepting color. 
 
 Silver Solution. — Silver solution is usually sent in a 
 concentrated form. To the contents of the jug or jugs 
 sent, as the case may be, add enough rain or distilled 
 water, if procurable, if not, water that has been boiled 
 and allowed to settle, to make the quantity ordered. A 
 little of the water can be used to rinse out the jug and 
 remove all of the concentrated solution. It is then ready 
 for use. 
 
 Use at a temperature of 65 to 70 ° Fahr. 
 
 Current pressure should be about ^ to 1 volt, accord- 
 ing to amount of work in the solution. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 1 35 
 
 Anodes. — Connect the anode with an iron wire to the 
 positive pole or carbon of the battery, or positive pole of 
 the dynamo. 
 
 Work. — Connect the work to be plated to the negative 
 pole or zinc of the battery, or negative pole of dynamo. 
 The surface of anode is regulated to the amount of work 
 being plated, being about the same, whereas in nickel 
 plating the anode surface may sometimes be somewhat in 
 excess. After getting a slight coat of silver on the arti- 
 cle, it may be removed from the solution and scratch- 
 brushed with the revolving scratch brush, on which 
 should be allowed to drip a little soap bark solution (use 
 1 ounce of soap bark to i gallon of water) ; this lays down 
 the grain of the silver, after which wash in clean cold 
 water and plate again. When sufficiently plated, it can 
 be scratch-brushed and buffed with a cotton flannel wheel, 
 to which is applied a little of the soft gold rouge mixed 
 with alcohol into a paste ; this gives the high color which 
 takes the place of the more expensive hand burnishing. 
 
 For plating silver on articles of iron or steel, it is well 
 to give the articles a slight coat of copper from a cyanide 
 of copper solution, which is very inexpensive. Another 
 plan is to take away, say, one quart of silver solution 
 when ready for use, and add 3 quarts of water and 6 
 ounces of C. P. cyanide of potash. Put in a large sur- 
 
I36 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 face of silver and only a small surface of work at a time. 
 The article will give off gas freely from this solution, 
 before which it should be thoroughly cleaned and 
 pumiced, and then will be obtained a yellowish coat of 
 silver, which is very adhesive. From this the work can 
 be placed in the regular silver solution to plate slowly 
 until a sufficient deposit is procured. This can be regu- 
 lated by the amount of anode immersed, distance between 
 anode and work being plated, and the size of wire, which 
 can be reduced until a sufficient resistance is obtained to 
 prevent escape of gas. 
 
 Work must be chemically clean and well scoured. 
 Grease can be removed by immersion in lye ; use 3 ounces 
 to gallon of water. 
 
 When the solution becomes impoverished it can be 
 renewed by adding 6 ounces C. P. cyanide of potash and 
 1 ounce of chloride of silver to each gallon of solution. 
 
 Finishing. — Finishing may be done with steel and 
 agate burnishers, or scratch-brushed if the work is to be 
 satin finished. 
 
 Silver Solution. — A good silver solution may be made 
 as follows : — 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 1 gallon. 
 
 C. P. cyanide of potash 1 pound. 
 
 Chloride of silver 3 ounces. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 1 37 
 
 Temperature should be about yo° Fahr. 
 
 Use a current pressure of about Yi to i volt, according 
 to the amount of work in the tank. ■ 
 
 First dissolve all of the cyanide in the full quantity of 
 water. A small portion of this solution should then be 
 put in a glass jar or earthenware pot. Add the chloride 
 of silver to this, stirring thoroughly until it forms a thin 
 paste. Then gradually, while stirring, pour this paste 
 into the bulk of the solution. 
 
 24 Karat Gold Solution. — Gold solution is usually 
 sent in a concentrated form. To the contents of the jug 
 or jugs sent, as the case may be, add enough rain or 
 distilled water if procurable, if not, water that has been 
 boiled and allowed to settle, to make the quantity 
 ordered. A little of the water can be used to rinse out 
 the jug and remove all of the concentrated solution. It is 
 then ready for use. 
 
 Solution. — Heat the solution to 140 Fahr. over a sand 
 or hot water bath. Heat hastens the chemical reactions 
 in the bath and the gold deposits much more rapidly. 
 
 Anodes. — Connect the anodes with a copper wire to 
 the positive pole or carbon of the battery, or positive pole 
 of the dynamo. 
 
 Work. — Connect the work to be plated to the negative 
 pole or zinc of the battery, or negative pole of dynamo. 
 
I38 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Strength of Current. — In gold plating as in other plat- 
 ing, the operator must always remember that a weak 
 current of suitable quantity to deposit uniformly will 
 give a close-grained, hard deposit, while a current that 
 is too strong will give a coarse-grained deposit or a dark 
 powder which refuses to adhere. The proper current 
 should be 3 to 4 volts. 
 
 Cleaning Work. — A chemically clean surface is abso- 
 lutely necessary to insure good results in plating. 
 
 Articles of iron or steel should first be copper plated. 
 
 Deposit. — After getting the first slight coat of gold, the 
 work should be scratch-brushed with a fine brass scratch 
 brush, allowing a little soap bark solution to drip on the 
 brush. (This solution is made with 1 ounce of soap 
 bark to 1 gallon of water.) This lays down the first 
 coat of gold, which should 'be sufficient to cover the 
 articles entirely. The scratch brush acts as a burnisher. 
 After this the work is thoroughly rinsed in cold water 
 and again placed in the solution. The time it remains 
 will be governed by experience, but generally five min- 
 utes will give a sufficient coat to stand burnishing. 
 
 When the solution becomes impoverished it can be 
 renewed by adding 2 ounces of C. P. cyanide of potash 
 and 60 grains of chloride of gold to each gallon of solu- 
 tion. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 1 39 
 
 Finishing. — Finishing- may be clone with steel and 
 agate burnishers, or the work scratch-brushed if it is to 
 be satin finished, or it may be colored with a soft canton 
 flannel buff and rouge. 
 
 24 Karat Gold Solution may be made as follows : — 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Distilled water 1 gallon. 
 
 Phosphate soda crystals g}4 ounces. 
 
 Bisulphite soda \% ounces. 
 
 Cyanide potash, C. P %. ounce. 
 
 Chloride gold 120 grains. 
 
 Use a current pressure of 3 to 4 volts. 
 
 Use at a temperature of about 160° Fahr. 
 
 Use 24 karat gold anodes. 
 
 Heat a portion of the water and dissolve the phosphate 
 of soda in this. Then allow it to cool. 
 
 In another portion of the water dissolve the bisulphite 
 of soda and cyanide of potash. 
 
 Dissolve the chloride of gold in the remaining water. 
 Stir this solution slowly into the phosphate of soda solu- 
 tion, after which add the solution of cyanide of potash 
 and bisulphite of soda. 
 
 The plating solution is now ready for use. 
 
 Rose Gold. — Rose gold color may be produced in the 
 following manner : — 
 
 Use 24 karat gold solution. 
 
I40 . PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Use 24 karat gold anode. 
 
 Use solution cold. 
 
 Use a current pressure of about 6 volts. 
 
 When the deposit has assumed a dark, loamy appear- 
 ance the work should be removed from the solution. The 
 relief parts should then be brightened by rubbing them 
 with moistened bicarbonate of soda. This may be ap- 
 plied by the ball of the finger, or by a piece of soft mus- 
 lin, thus leaving the background or recessed parts in the 
 loamy condition, showing marked contrast between these 
 and the parts in relief. 
 
 If the solution is rich in gold, a copper anode may be 
 used to produce the desired result. 
 
 A rose gold solution may also be made by adding a 
 very small quantity of carbonate of copper or cyanide of 
 copper solution to the gold solution. 
 
 Many shades of rose gold may be produced from the 
 same solution by varying both temperature and voltage. 
 No set rule can be given for this, the conditions under 
 which the various shades are produced being due to the 
 manipulations of the operator. 
 
 Articles, excepting those of solid gold, should be given 
 a coating of good quality lacquer. 
 
 14 Karat Gold Solution. — The 14 karat gold solution 
 should be used with a fair 14 karat gold anode surface, 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. . I4I 
 
 using 2 anodes 2 or 3 square inches each, one on each 
 side of the work. 
 
 Use at a temperature of not less than 180 Fahr. 
 
 Use a current pressure of about 5 to 6 volts. 
 
 Plate only a few pieces at a time. 
 
 The work, after being polished and cleaned, should be 
 rinsed in cold water before being placed in the solution. 
 
 Keep the vessel covered while heating and getting the 
 work ready for use. 
 
 Articles of iron or steel should first be copperplated. 
 
 Have the work highly finished before plating. If the 
 deposit turns yellow the anode is too small, temperature 
 too low. or current too weak. By moving the work up 
 and down a few times in the solution it can be given any 
 color desired, even to that of fine gold. Test a small 
 quantity of the solution first to see that the conditions 
 are correct. 
 
 'When using batteries, four small Bunsen cells, coupled 
 for intensity, zinc to carbon, are necessary. 
 
 If by mistake the solution is allowed to become 
 exhausted of gold from too small an anode surface, or 
 too large a surface of work, run in more gold from the 
 anode by hanging a loop of iron wire in a small porous 
 cup in place of the work. When first used, this solution 
 may give a fine gold color, owing to excess of gold, but 
 
142 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATINC. 
 
 it will soon give the 14 karat color. If the anodes become 
 dull, add a small quantity of C..P. cyanide of potash, but 
 always try experiments with a small quantity of solution, 
 remembering the proportions used. 
 
 If work is first highly polished no buffing is required 
 after plating, this being a great advantage in the use of 
 this solution. 
 
 Green Gold Solution. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 4 gallons. 
 
 Cyanide potash, C. P 6 ounces. 
 
 Chloride gold y 2 ounce. 
 
 Chloride silver 2 pennyweights. 
 
 Phosphate soda 1^ ounces. 
 
 Caustic potash (sticks) % ounce. 
 
 Use cold with a 24 karat gold anode. 
 
 Use a current pressure of from 2 to 4 volts, according 
 to the size of work and anode. 
 
 Dissolve all of the cyanide of potash in the full quan- 
 tity of water; then add the chloride of gold, dip out a 
 very small quantity of this solution and stir the chloride 
 of silver in it, then stir this in the bulk of the solution, 
 after which add the phosphate of soda, then the caustic 
 potash. 
 
 See that each article is dissolved before adding the 
 next. After the article has received the proper deposit 
 the relief parts should be slightly rubbed with bicarbonate 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. I43 
 
 of soda. This will brighten them and leave the recessed 
 parts a greenish tint, thus producing a very pretty and 
 effective contrast. 
 
 Green from Gold Solution, for removing Green 
 Oxide from Gold. — This solution is usually furnished 
 ready for use. 
 
 Use solution cold. 
 
 Use the work as an anode. 
 
 Use a sheet lead cathode. 
 
 Use a current pressure -of 5 to 6 volts. 
 
 During the process of manufacture of gold articles, 
 the heat combined with the compounds of the flux used, 
 during hard soldering, causes a film of green oxide to 
 form on the surface. This coating is difficult to remove, 
 and is often imperfectly done by pickling and polishing. 
 
 When the oxide is removed in this solution, the article 
 will come out bright and smooth, thus saving time, ex- 
 pense, and gold in the final polishing and finishing. Any 
 gold removed in this manner is taken up in the solution 
 and can be regained by the usual method. 
 
 Tin Solution. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water i gallon. 
 
 Caustic soda, gran., 8 ounces. 
 
 Fused proto-chloride of tin 3 ounces. 
 
144 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Solution should stand at about u° Baume. 
 
 Use solution cold. 
 
 Use a current pressure of about i to 1/2 volts. 
 
 Use only pure tin anodes. 
 
 First dissolve the caustic soda in nearly the full quan- 
 tity of water required. 
 
 Then dissolve the fused proto-chloride of tin in the 
 water held in reserve, after which slowly pour this in the 
 bulk of the solution, and at the same time keep stirring 
 the mixture. The solution is now ready for use. 
 
 If the solution becomes impoverished and deposits 
 too slowly it is an indication that it has been stripped of 
 metal. It should then be revived by adding- fused proto- 
 chloride of tin in very small quantities until the difficulty 
 is remedied. - 
 
 If the solution should have a milky appearance add 
 caustic soda in very small quantities until it becomes 
 clear. 
 
 Articles of iron or steel should first be given a slight 
 copper deposit in a cyanide copper solution, preferably 
 hot. 
 
 While the work is being plated it will take on a frosty 
 appearing deposit which is porous and spongy. The work 
 should then be removed and scratch-brushed. This must 
 be repeated several times during the plating operation, 
 depending on the thickness of the deposit required. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 1 45 
 
 When this solution is used with mechanical plating 
 barrels a current pressure of about i l /> volts is required. 
 Under these conditions the scratch-brushing is not nec- 
 essary for the reason that the rolling tumbling motion 
 imparted to the articles cause them to constantly rub 
 together and burnish themselves. 
 
COLD GALVANIZING (ELECTRO-GALVANIZING). 
 
 Cold galvanizing is now being successfully done in a 
 commercial way by many large manufacturing concerns. 
 Articles of steel, gray, and malleable iron, ranging from 
 screws and bolts to wire cloth and architectural iron, are 
 finished in this manner. -The electro-deposition of zinc 
 has been attempted for many years, but only within a 
 short period have practical commercial results been ob- 
 tained. 
 
 With the advantages secured by the use of modern 
 compound-wound dynamos as a source of current, it is 
 now possible to install complete plants for galvanizing all 
 iron or steel articles from small pieces to a ship's anchor 
 and chain. 
 
 It has been demonstrated that, in the application of 
 zinc by the Electrolytic Cold Process, a much smaller 
 amount of protecting metal to the square foot is required 
 than is necessary in hot galvanizing. At the same time 
 the protective quality of the electrically deposited zinc 
 is greater, and the deposit more uniform, than can be 
 obtained where hot metal is used. 
 
 Tempered articles, coil springs, automobile and bicycle 
 hardware, and like goods of comparatively small cross 
 
 146 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 147 
 
 section or high temper, sometimes lose a part of their 
 tensile strength or temper when subjected to the heat of 
 the molten bath (774° Fahr.). This is a disadvantage 
 not present in the cold process. 
 
 Cold galvanizing is successfully done in still-solution 
 plating tanks, and also in the Mechanical Electro-plating 
 Apparatus. 
 
 Galvanizing Solution. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 1 gallon. 
 
 Galvanizing salts 2 pounds. 
 
 Toning salts 1 ounce. 
 
 Solution should stand at about 18 Baume. 
 
 When used as a still solution the current pressure 
 should be about 2^ to 3 volts. 
 
 When used as a plating barrel solution the current 
 pressure should be from 6 to 10 volts. 
 
 Use only pure zinc anodes. 
 
 Dissolve all of the galvanizing salts in the full quan- 
 tity of water required. 
 
 Dissolve the toning salts in a portion of this solution, 
 then stir it in the bulk of the solution. 
 
 Pure zinc anodes should be suspended in the solution 
 and allowed to remain over night. Then skim and the 
 solution will be ready for use. The solution should now 
 stand at about 18 Baume. 
 
I48 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 If the solution after some use plates slowly and shows 
 too blue a color on the work, add J/2 to J4 ounce of toning 
 salts to each gallon. The toning- salts should first be dis- 
 solved in a portion of the solution. 
 
 If, after considerable use, the solution stands below 
 1 8° Baume, add galvanizing salts to bring it up to the 
 proper point. 
 
 It is of first importance that the work should have a 
 clean, metallic surface free from grease, rust, and scale, 
 otherwise good results cannot be obtained. 
 
 Grease and dirt can be removed by immersing the work 
 in a Kostico dip : 1 gallon of water, 8 ounces Kostico. 
 
 This must be used at boiling point. 
 
 Hard scale, sand, and rust can be removed in a solution 
 of H. F. acid or by sand blast: 15 parts of water, 1 part 
 H. F. acid. Use cold. 
 
 For ordinary work a solution of muriatic acid can be 
 used: 15 parts of water, 1 part muriatic acid. 
 
 Use hot at 115 to 120 Fahr. 
 
 This dip will remove light scale and rust. If the arti- 
 cles are not then sufficiently clean, scrub with flour pum- 
 ice and water. 
 
 Work should invariably go through the Kostico before 
 being placed in the pickle tank. After each cleansing 
 operation the article must be rinsed in clean, cold water. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 149 
 
 Work that is plated in a still solution will have a very 
 white and frost)- appearance. It can be easily bright- 
 ened by giving it a slight scratch-brushing. 
 
 Work that is plated in a mechanical plating barrel will 
 not have the frosty appearance, as the rolling motion 
 imparted to it causes a burnishing effect while the deposit 
 is going on, which will frequently cause it to come from 
 the barrel in a fairly bright condition, depending on the 
 class and shape of the work. 
 
 A good deposit should be obtained in a still solution 
 in about Yi hour and a very heavy deposit in about I 
 hour. 
 
 A good deposit in a mechanical plating-barrel solution 
 requires from \]/ 2 to 2 hours. These figures are approx- 
 imate only and for ordinary cases under proper condi- 
 tions. The actual length of time of deposit depends on 
 the class of work and the thickness of deposit required. 
 
 Oxidizing Solution, for Copper, Bronze, and Silver. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 1 gallon. 
 
 Sulphuret potash i/ 2 ounce. 
 
 Use as a dip at about 130 Fahr. 
 
 After the article has been oxidized the high light is 
 brought out by slightly touching the work to a felt wheel 
 charged with rouge. 
 
I50 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Sewed buffs are often used to g*ood advantage and, 
 for certain finishes, either steel or brass wire scratch 
 brushes are used. 
 
 Articles of brass, iron, or steel must first be copper- 
 plated. 
 
 The work should finally be given a good coating of 
 lacquer. 
 
 Statuary Bronze. — First copperplate the article. 
 Then oxidize it in a sulphuret of potash solution. The 
 oxidization should then be nearly all scoured off by using 
 a tampico hand or wheel brush charged with fine pow- 
 dered pumice and water, after which the article should be 
 lacquered. 
 
 Royal Blue Solution, producing- a Blued Steel Finish 
 on Steel, Iron, Brass, or Copper. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 1 gallon. 
 
 Royal blue salts 9 ounces. 
 
 Use as a dip at about 180 to 190 Fahr. 
 
 Use an earthenware pot. 
 
 Heat the water to about 190 Fahr., then put in the 
 royal blue salts and stir thoroughly until it is dissolved, 
 excepting a small quantity of sediment, which will always 
 remain in the bottom of the vessel. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 151 
 
 The articles must be perfectly cleaned in the same 
 manner as before plating. 
 
 Dip the articles in the solution and keep agitating them. 
 The articles will then take on first a golden tint, then 
 pink, etc. When the blue color appears the articles must 
 at once be removed and dipped in clean, cold water, then 
 in hot water, otherwise the color will change to a light, 
 steel shade. 
 
 The articles should be given a coating of lacquer in 
 order to retain the color. 
 
 It is better to experiment with one or two pieces of 
 work in order to become familiar with the action of the 
 solution, as the success in operating this is chiefly in 
 knowing at what time the articles should be removed. 
 
 The solution should be used until exhausted, then make 
 an entirely new one. 
 
 Copper or brass articles will take on a deeper blue than 
 iron or steel. 
 
 If iron or steel articles are given a slight copper deposit 
 the color will then be as deep as that given to copper or 
 brass. 
 
 Verd-Antique Chemical Solution, for Antique Green 
 Finish on Brass, Copper, or Bronze. — This will produce 
 the genuine finish, as the chemical action of the solution 
 on the metal causes a verdigris covered surface. 
 
152 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATiNC. 
 
 Brush the article with the solution and allow it to dry 
 very slowly in a damp heated atmosphere for 24 hours or 
 more, for the reason that as soon as the solution becomes 
 thoroughly dry its corrosive action ceases. Proper 
 results cannot be obtained if the articles are allowed to 
 dry quickly. 
 
 Articles of iron or steel should be given a fairly heavy 
 copper deposit. 
 
 If the article has been properly treated it will be en- 
 tirely covered with verdigris, which presents various 
 tints. 
 
 It should then be brushed with a flat bristle or tampico 
 brush on which some beeswax has been rubbed. 
 
 The relief parts may then be set off with hematite, 
 chrome yellow, or other suitable colors. Light touches 
 with ammonia give a blue shade and carbonate of 
 ammonia will deepen the color. 
 
 By applying verd-antique lacquer with a stipple brush 
 on this finish various mottled effects can be obtained. 
 
 Verd-Antique Lacquer, for Antique Green Finish on 
 Brass, Copper, or Bronze. — Verd-antique lacquer should 
 be applied with a brush in the same manner as ordinary 
 lacquer, but it is not suitable to use on highly polished 
 surfaces ; such surfaces should first be dulled by dipping 
 in acid. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. I 53 
 
 \\ hen this lacquer is applied over a verd-antique chem- 
 ical solution finish, some very pretty effects can be pro- 
 duced. 
 
 Stop-off Varnish. — This varnish is used when it is 
 necessary to deposit two or more metals on one article. 
 It thoroughly insulates the parts covered, so they will not 
 take on a deposit. 
 
 It should be applied with a brush in the same manner 
 as lacquer, and allowed to dry before being placed in the 
 plating solution. It can be easily removed with benzine. 
 
SECTION VL 
 
 DIPS AND CLEANERS, PICKLES, 
 STRIPPING SOLUTIONS, 
 
 DIPS. 
 
 Dips are used for the pur- 
 pose of removing- stains or 
 discoloration, and to pro- 
 duce a uniform color on the 
 metals. 
 
 After dipping the articles 
 rinse first in cold and then 
 in hot water. Small arti- 
 cles in bulk will retain con- 
 siderable moisture and 
 should be dried in hot saw- 
 dust, while large articles 
 will retain little moisture but sufficient heat to cause them 
 to dry quickly in the air. 
 
 AYhen mixing water and acids of various kinds, the 
 lightest weight liquid should be put in the container first, 
 
 i55 
 
I56 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 following- with the next heavier in turn until the mixture 
 is completed. 
 
 Always pour the acids in slowly and at the same time 
 keep stirring the mixture. 
 
 Approximate weights per gallon. 
 Water, 8 pounds. 
 Muriatic acid, 18 , 10 pounds. 
 Nitric acid, 38 , iij^ pounds. 
 Aqua fortis, 36 , 11^ pounds. 
 Oil of vitriol, 66°, i5>4 pounds. 
 
 Cyanide Dip (Poison) for Brass, Bronze, Copper, 
 and Silver. — This will not affect the polished surface of 
 the metals and may be used on articles that would have 
 the surface injured by the use of acid dips. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 1 gallon. 
 
 C. P. cyanide potash % pound. 
 
 Bright Dip for Solid Metals, Brass, Bronze, and Cop- 
 per. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Nitric acid 1 part. 
 
 Oil of vitriol 2 parts. 
 
 Salt to each gallon 1 tablespoonful. 
 
 Mix in order named. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 1 57 
 
 Bright Dip for Plated Articles, Brass, Bronze, and 
 Copper. — To give the metals a high-finished color, when 
 it is not desired to have them buffed. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 1 part. 
 
 Nitric acid 1 part. 
 
 Oil of vitriol 2 parts. 
 
 Salt to each gallon 1 tablespoonful. 
 
 Mix in order named. 
 
 Burning Acid Dip for Brass, Bronze, or Copper. — 
 To remove oxidation formed by the process of hard 
 soldering or annealing in order to prepare a better sur- 
 face on the metal previous to the regular bright dipping. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 1 part. 
 
 Nitric acid 1 part. 
 
 Mix in order named. 
 
 Ormolu Dip. — This is used to produce frosted or 
 
 satin finish effects on brass, similar to those made by a 
 
 sand blast or scratch brushes. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Nitric acid 1 gallon. 
 
 Sulphuric acid 1 gallon. 
 
 Metallic zinc l /z pound. 
 
 Use in a chemical stoneware jar placed in a hot water 
 bath. 
 
 First dissolve the zinc in the nitric acid, then, while 
 stirring, add the sulphuric acid. 
 
158 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 The work must be absolutely clean, the same as for 
 plating. 
 
 Stir the dip each time before using. 
 
 Immerse the articles for a few seconds, then rinse in 
 cold water, after which dip in a bright acid dip ; then 
 rinse in hot water. 
 
 If the finish should be too bright or have too fine a 
 frosted appearance add more zinc previously dissolved 
 in nitric acid. 
 
 If the finish should be too dull or have too coarse a 
 frosted appearance add nitric acid only. 
 
 It requires some little experience and care to do this 
 work well, but, after the operator has become accustomed 
 to handling it, some beautiful effects can be produced. 
 
 Acid Dip for Iron and Steel. — To remove oxide or 
 
 rust. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 1 part. 
 
 Muriatic acid 1 part. 
 
 Mix in order named. 
 
 Kostico Dip for all Metals. — -To remove grease before 
 plating. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 1 gallon. 
 
 Kostico y 2 pound. 
 
 This must be used at the boiling point. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 1 59 
 
 XXX Lye Dip for All Metals. — To remove grease 
 before plating. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 1 gallon. 
 
 XXX lye 3 ounces. 
 
 Use hot. 
 
 Potash Dip for all Metals. — To remove grease before 
 
 plating. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 1 gallon. 
 
 Common potash )/ 2 pound. 
 
 Use hot. 
 
 Soda Dip for Iron and Steel. — To neutralize work 
 that has been over-pickled in acid. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 1 gallon. 
 
 Sal soda l /z pound. 
 
 Use hot or cold. 
 
 The work should be allowed to remain in the dip for 
 15 to 30 minutes, according to the condition of the metal. 
 
 CLEANERS. 
 
 Chemical Cleaning Compound (C. C. C). — A sub- 
 stitute for potash and caustic for cleaning work prepara- 
 tory to plating. This compound is particularly useful 
 where a hot potash solution cannot be used, and on very 
 
l6o PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 large surfaces such as sheet metal, urns, grate fronts, etc. 
 It is also very useful for cleaning zinc work before plat- 
 ing. 
 
 Directions. — Mix the compound with cold water until 
 it has the consistency of a soft paste; apply this paste to 
 the work with a cotton potash brush, after which thor- 
 oughly rinse with cold water ; then wash off with a clean 
 cotton potash brush and clean water. The work is then 
 ready for the plating solution. 
 
 Royal Cleaning Compound for removing Polishing 
 Compositions from Work. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water i gallon. 
 
 Royal Cleaning Compound 6 ounces. 
 
 Use hot. 
 
 This is very useful for removing traces of crocus, trip- 
 oli, rouge, or lime compositions from all classes of work 
 that have been polished or buffed, and especially those 
 having recessed or hollow places in which the polishing 
 compositions so readily adhere. 
 
 This particular compound will not tarnish or oxidize 
 the work to the same extent as do many other kinds used 
 for the same purpose. 
 
 After the work has been removed from the cleaning 
 compound rinse thoroughly first in cold then in hot water. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. l6l 
 
 Royal Cleaning Compound will also be found very 
 useful when used in a tumbling barrel solution with steel 
 balls, for polishing small articles such as rings, ferrules, 
 buckles, etc., both before and after plating. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water i gallon. 
 
 Royal Cleaning Compound % pound. 
 
 When the work is taken from the barrel, use a dipping 
 basket, and rinse thoroughly first in cold and then in hot 
 water. 
 
 Electro-Chemical Cleaner. — Used for cleaning, by 
 electrical action, all kinds of metal work, both before and 
 after plating, polishing, or buffing. It will quickly 
 remove all traces of grease or smut, leaving the work 
 perfectly clean. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water i gallon. 
 
 Electro-chemical cleaning salts i pound. 
 
 Solution should stand at about 4 Baume when cold. 
 
 Use a current pressure of about 5 volts. 
 
 Solution must be used at boiling point. 
 
 Use a plain iron tank fitted with a steam coil, or a 
 steam- jacketed boiling kettle. Heat the water to boiling 
 point, then add the electro-chemical cleaning salts in 
 small quantities, stirring it in thoroughly. 
 
1 62 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Connect the side or flange of the tank direct to the 
 positive branch line. Place across the tank a brass rod 
 on which to suspend the work. The rod must be insula- 
 ted from the tank ; this may be done by using- short pieces 
 of rubber hose slipped over the rod. Connect the rod 
 with a rod connection to the negative branch line. 
 
 When the work is suspended in the solution by a cop- 
 per wire attached to the rod, a strong electro-chemical 
 action at once takes place, which will quickly force off 
 all impurities from the surface of the metal. 
 
 Renewing. — In order to keep the solution at the 
 proper density it is necessary to add from time to time 
 small quantities of the cleaning salts ; the quantity neces- 
 sary to use can be determined by the action of the solution. 
 
 Time of Operation. — The average work can be prop- 
 erly cleaned in from i to 2 minutes ; the actual length of 
 time required of course depends upon the condition of 
 the work when placed in the bath. After cleaning arti- 
 cles of brass, copper, zinc, or tin, they should first be 
 rinsed in cold water, then dipped in a cyanide dip made 
 as follows : 1 gallon of water, J /> pound C. P. cyanide 
 potash ; after which rinse in cold water and pass to the 
 plating solution. 
 
 Articles of iron or steel after coming from the cleaner 
 should be rinsed in cold water, then dipped in a muri- 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 1 63 
 
 atic acid dip, mixed in die order named : 1 5 parts of water, 
 1 part muriatic acid, 22 , after which rinse in cold 
 water; they are then ready for the plating solution. 
 
 PICKLES. 
 
 Pickles are used for the purpose of cleaning the metals 
 by removing scale, rust, sand, etc., and not to brighten 
 them. 
 
 After removing the articles from the pickle rinse first 
 in cold and then in hot water. Small articles in bulk will 
 retain considerable moisture and should be dried in hot 
 sawdust, while large articles will retain little moisture 
 but sufficient heat to cause them to dry quickly in the air. 
 
 Hydrofluoric Acid Pickle for Iron and Steel. — To 
 remove scale, rust, and sand. 
 
 For mu la : 
 
 Water 15 parts. 
 
 Hydrofluoric acid 1 part. 
 
 Mix in order named. Use cold. 
 
 This pickle should be used in a lead lined tank, or a 
 wood tank or tub lined both inside and outside with pre- 
 pared tank lining but not sanded. 
 
 The articles should be suspended in the pickle by wires 
 or baskets and allowed to remain until the objectionable 
 features have been removed. 
 
164 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 The pickle can be used repeatedly, by adding- about 
 one third the original quantity of acid before charging 
 again with iron. 
 
 When it is desired to keep the iron bright, it should be 
 rinsed with water about 200 Fahr., immediately after 
 coming from the acid, in order to dry it quickly. By this 
 means all trace of the acid is removed, and the chance of 
 corrosion or tarnish resulting, obviated. If washed with 
 cold water, it will remain wet for some time and rust. 
 
 It is advisable to add a small quantity of lime to the 
 wash water. ' 
 
 Wooden boxes with holes in the sides may be used to 
 good advantage for immersing and removing the cast- 
 ings from the pickle. By this means the sand is retained 
 in the bottom of the boxes and is removed with the cast- 
 ing, thus saving the acid's strength from acting on the 
 sand when not in use. 
 
 Spent, weak acid should be discarded, and the tank 
 should be cleaned every month. 
 
 As the strong acid will cause inflammation wherever it 
 comes in contact with the skin, it should be handled even 
 more carefully than other acids. Rubber gloves are the 
 best protection, but if the acid has splashed on the skin it 
 should be washed off immediately with water and diluted 
 borax or sal soda solution, or with aqua ammonia, which 
 will prevent injury. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. l6^ 
 
 Acid Pickle for Brass and Copper. — To remove scale. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 20 parts. 
 
 Oil of vitriol 1 part. 
 
 Mix in order named. 
 
 Pickelene for Iron and Steel. — To remove scale, rust, 
 and sand. Pickelene is far superior to acid pickles for 
 iron and steel. 
 
 Advantages. — Pickelene is a dry salt, easier and cleaner 
 to use, safer to handle and quicker to act than acid. 
 
 It has no disagreeable or injurious fumes such as are 
 encountered when using- acid pickles. 
 
 It will not deteriorate with age or when exposed to 
 the air. 
 
 It can be shipped without danger or breakage, and. 
 unlike acid, may be sent by express as well as by freight. 
 
 Express companies will not receive or forward acid 
 shipments, consequently it is necessary to ship by freight, 
 often causing delay when badly needed. Acid is always 
 shipped at buyers' risk of breakage in transit. The car- 
 boys must be handled with the greatest care, and even 
 then are often broken, losing their entire contents. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 1 gallon. 
 
 Pickelene salts 1 pound. 
 
1 66 PRACTICAL ELECTRO- PLATING. 
 
 Use hot ; the hotter the better. 
 
 Solution should stand at about 1 1 ° Baume when cold. 
 
 Pickelene may be used in either a lead lined or unlined 
 wood tank, fitted with a heavy lead steam coil. Do not 
 use iron tanks. 
 
 When the articles are suspended in this solution a very 
 powerful chemical action takes place, about 10 to 15 
 minutes only being- required to remove scale or rust from 
 ordinary work, and the same length of time to loosen 
 sand. 
 
 After removing the work from the pickle, rinse first in 
 cold and then in hot water. Sanded articles should be 
 scrubbed in cold water then rinsed in hot water. 
 
 Renewing.— When the solution after use becomes 
 depleted of active element, it is an indication that more 
 pickelene salts should be added. 
 
 STRIPPING SOLUTIONS. 
 
 Nickel Stripping Solution. — Used as a dip for remov- 
 ing- nickel from work. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water x / 2 gallon. 
 
 Oil of vitriol Yz gallon. 
 
 Saltpeter % pound. 
 
 Mix in order named. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 1 67 
 
 Immerse the article in the solution ; keep constantly 
 shaking and changing its position until the nickel has 
 been removed, then rinse, first in cold and after in hot 
 
 water. 
 
 Silver Stripping Solution. — Used as a dip to remove 
 silver from brass, or German silver before replating. 
 
 Formula ; 
 
 Oil of vitriol 1 gallon. 
 
 Saltpeter y z pound. 
 
 Use at a temperature of uo to 130 Fahr. with the 
 vessel placed in a sand or water bath. 
 
 Silver Stripping Solution for Steel. — To remove sil- 
 ver from steel before replating. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 1 gallon. 
 
 C. P. cyanide potash )/ z pound. 
 
 Chloride silver y^ ounce. 
 
 Mix in order named. 
 
 Mix the chloride of silver in a small portion of the 
 cyanide and water solution until it forms a thin paste, 
 then stir it in the bulk of the solution. 
 
 Use a current pressure of 1 Yi to 2 volts. 
 
 Use the article as an anode and the silver anode as a 
 cathode. 
 
 Essex Stripping Salts for Silver and for deplating 
 Spelter. — Many operators, especially those doing silver 
 
1 68 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 plating, will find that by using- iron racks or trees they 
 can use an Essex stripping solution with a reverse current 
 and thus strip all their racks of deposited metal, leaving 
 them perfectly clean and the same as new, and at a great 
 saving in cost. 
 
 It is especially advantageous for silver, as by this 
 method the silver is precipitated to the bottom of the 
 tank. To recover the settlings the solution should be 
 siphoned off; the silver can then be handled at a less cost 
 than when taken up in the solution, as is the case with 
 cyanide. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Essex stripping salts }£ pound. 
 
 Water i gallon. 
 
 Solution should stand at 7° Baume. 
 Use a current pressure of 4 to 5 volts. 
 Arrange the tank the same as for plating except with 
 a reverse current, and use thin steel cathodes. 
 
 Silver Quickening Solution. — Used as a clip. For use 
 on brass and German silver before silver plating, to has- 
 ten the action of the silver deposit, by giving the surface 
 of the metals a slight coating on which the deposit will 
 readily take. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 1 69 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water 5 gallons. 
 
 Corrosive sublimate 1 pound. 
 
 Muriatic acid 1 pint. 
 
 Mix in order named. 
 
 Dissolve the corrosive sublimate in hot water. 
 
 "H. & V. W." Acid Pump.— This can well be called 
 an article of great value for the plating room as it reduces 
 to a minimum the well-known danger of handling acids 
 in carboys. 
 
 ^H. & V. W." Acid Pump. 
 
 The pump can be operated by a boy. The pitcher or 
 receptacle is placed near the carboy. One end of the 
 rubber tube is placed in the acid, the rubber cork making 
 an air-tight joint in the neck of the carboy; the other end 
 
I70 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 of the tube is placed in the pitcher. When the pump is 
 operated a steady flow of acid is obtained. The pump can 
 also be used as a siphon for small quantities after the 
 flow is started. 
 
 Atitomatic Rubber Respirator. 
 
 Automatic Rubber "Respirator. — For use when 
 working in fumes, vapors, smoke, and all kinds of dust. 
 They will be found a great relief in all dipping operations 
 where the obnoxious acid fumes arise from the dips, also 
 in all dusty, grinding, and polishing operations. 
 
 They are provided with a closed and protected auto- 
 matic ventilating valve, which operates under all condi- 
 tions, thus securing perfect ventilation. A fine, damp 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. I /I 
 
 sponge or a wet, silk cloth is the best filtering- material for 
 separating impurities from the air, and, when these two 
 valuable filtering- materials are combined in their action, 
 the protection is practically complete, and it is a very 
 difficult matter for fumes or gases to pass through the 
 respirator. 
 
SECTION VII. 
 MECHANICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Xo branch of the electro-plating- industry has in the 
 last few years received the careful attention and made 
 such rapid progress as the plating of small articles in 
 bulk, by mechanical operations. 
 
 Manufacturers of this class of goods were quick to 
 perceive the advantages gained by the use of such 
 machines, owing to the large quantities of material that 
 can be so quickly handled, the great saving in time and 
 labor and the consequent reduction in the cost of the fin- 
 ished articles. Hie result has been that, at the present 
 time, several hundred perfected machines are in daily 
 use, operating with the various plating solutions. 
 
 A mechanical plating apparatus consists of an outer 
 tank for containing the solution and a revolving plating 
 barrel made of perforated wood or celluloid in which to 
 hold and tumble the work while deposition is going on. 
 The barrels are belt driven from a countershaft. 
 
 The revolving tumbling motion imparted to the work 
 creates a constant burnishing action, as the articles 
 
174 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 receive the deposit, consequently many classes of work 
 come from the barrel in a highly polished and burnished 
 condition. 
 
 With these machines from 40 to 80 pounds of small 
 work, according to the character of same, can be plated 
 
 The li H. 6° V. W." Mechanical Electro- Plating Apparatus, Patented. 
 
 in one operation. This avoids the necessity of plating 
 small articles in the old style depositing baskets, which 
 is a slow and tedious method requiring the constant 
 attention of the operator, and is very unsatisfactory at 
 best; while the saving in nickel, that under the old 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 1 75 
 
 methods was deposited on the baskets, is very considera- 
 ble, the chief factors which recommend the mechanical 
 apparatus to the user are time, evenness of finish, econ- 
 omy of nickel and slinging - wire, and the ability of the 
 operator to handle large amounts of work daily. 
 
 These machines are now largely used in plating shops 
 where it is necessary to turn out quantities of small work 
 in a short space of time. They are successfully operated 
 with all of the regular plating solutions. 
 
 THE "H. & V. W." MECHANICAL ELECTRO- 
 PLATING APPARATUS, PATENTED. 
 
 The apparatus herein described has been much sim- 
 plified. The barrel is entirely submerged. The drive is 
 from the outside, thus avoiding the use of belts running 
 in the solution. Two speeds are provided for. The 
 barrel is removable at any time without throwing off the 
 belt, or interfering with the drive. 
 
 The machines are made in several sizes with revolving 
 barrels of wood or celluloid containing perforations of 
 various- sizes, depending on the shape and class of work 
 to be plated. 
 
 A patent mechanical plating apparatus, complete, con- 
 sists of a wood tank, revolving plating barrel, necessary 
 rods and connections, and a special patent countershaft. 
 The solution, anodes, and tank rheostat are extra. 
 
176 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Directions for Setting Up and Operating the "H. 
 
 & V. W." Patent Electrolytic Plating- Apparatus. 
 
 Belting. — If possible place the apparatus in such a 
 position that a slanting belt can be used, and so that the 
 underside of the belt does the pulling. The length of 
 belt to use for best results is one that will allow for about 
 from 10 to 15 feet between the centers of the pulleys. 
 
 Apparatus. — These are fitted with suitable terminal 
 connections and are to be connected to the main line in 
 the same manner as an ordinary plating tank, with suita- 
 ble size of wire, as shown by the branch holes in the con- 
 nections. 
 
 Anode rods +, revolving plating barrel to contain the 
 work — . A rheostat should be cut in on the negative 
 line between the tank and the main line. When the 
 barrel is being filled or emptied the lever of the rheostat 
 should be thrown on the "off" point. This is in order 
 that, if a current of high tension is used, the work may 
 not be burned while removing it from the tank. 
 
 Care should be taken to see that all points of contact 
 are kept clean. A strip of thin sheet lead should be bent 
 into U-shape and placed over the entire length of the 
 anode rod, or a split length of rubber hose can be used. 
 This will keep the drippings and dirt from the solution 
 from interfering with the contact between the anode 
 hooks and rods, 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO- PLATING. 1 77 
 
 Two speeds of the revolving barrel are provided for. 
 To obtain correct speeds the countershaft should run at 
 10 r. p. in. 
 
 Voltage to be used with various solutions: — 
 
 Acid copper solution, i8° Baume, 2^ to 5 volts. 
 
 Cyanide copper and brass solution, 12 to 15 Baume, 
 4 to 5 volts. 
 
 Nickel solution, io° Baume, 4 to 5 volts. 
 
 Zinc solution, 20 Baume, '6 to 10 volts. 
 
 When plating round articles or those having no sharp 
 edges or corners, a higher speed may be used, and, con- 
 sequently, a higher voltage may be maintained and time 
 of deposit shortened. The higher speed has a tendency 
 to give a preliminary polish to the articles in the barrel. 
 In the lower speeds almost any work which will not hang 
 to the periphery of the barrel may be handled, and it is 
 advisable that with the slow speed a lower current pres- 
 sure be used. 
 
 Curved elliptic anodes are recommended for use with 
 this outfit for the reason that there is a better circulation 
 of the solution and more even disintegration in an anode 
 of this shape, and the curved form entirely surrounds the 
 work being plated in the barrel. It has also been dem- 
 onstrated that the current works more freely from the 
 edges of the anodes, so, if a wide plate be used, the work 
 directly opposite the edges will be likely to receive a 
 
178 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 heavier coating than that part opposite the center of the 
 large plate. 
 
 Best results can be obtained when the barrel is about 
 half full, or even to the shaft, with work. 
 
 Average length of time required to get a good deposit, 
 of different metals in ordinary cases, under proper condi- 
 tions : — 
 
 Acid copper solution, 20 to 40 minutes. 
 
 Cyanide copper and brass solution, 30 to 45 minutes. 
 
 Nickel solution on brass, 15 to 30 minutes. 
 
 Nickel solution on steel, 45 to 60 minutes. 
 
 Zinc solution, 1J/2 to 2 hours. 
 
 These figures are approximate only and will not apply 
 to all cases. 
 
 Oblique Plating Barrel Apparatus. — The oblique 
 plating barrel apparatus can be used to advantage in 
 shops where not enough of the small work is regularly 
 handled to warrant the expense of installing the larger 
 horizontal barrel type. 
 
 These apparatus are furnished complete with or with- 
 out tank; it is not necessary to use any particular tank, 
 for the reason that a barrel only, complete with shafts, 
 hanger gear, and pulley, can be attached to any regular 
 still-plating tank without trouble. Suitable anodes, rods, 
 and connections can easily be arranged by the operator. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 179 
 
 For best results curved elliptic anodes should be used, 
 these to be placed about i l / 2 to 2 inches from the barrel. 
 Ordinary flat anodes may be used, but in this case a much 
 higher voltage is necessary. 
 
 When a barrel is rigged in this manner it can at once 
 be removed, and the space it occupied in the tank can be 
 
 Oblique Plating Barrel Apparatus . 
 
 used for still plating. When desired, several of these 
 barrels of the same or varying sizes can be operated in one 
 solution tank, each plating work of different size or char- 
 acter, that may be kept in separate lots when necessary. 
 
 The barrel is made in cylinder form, of material which 
 resists the action of the solutions, and is so constructed 
 that no part of the apparatus itself will receive the metal- 
 
l80 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 lie deposit from the anodes. The barrel is suspended in 
 the solution at an oblique angle, by a mechanical arrange- 
 ment at the top of a tank, either at the end or on the 
 side. 
 
 These apparatus are made in four regular sizes, having 
 capacities ranging from 10 to 40 pounds of screws, nails, 
 or similar articles. 
 
 The drive is from the outside, avoiding the necessity of 
 having a belt or chain running in the solution. The 
 barrel may be driven either from a countershaft or direct 
 from a small electric motor. 
 
 A rigid swinging hanger allows the barrel to be raised 
 or lowered with ease and without interfering with the 
 drive. These movements are controlled by the projecting 
 shaft, on the end of which is a swivel handle. In this 
 manner the work can be examined at any time without 
 stopping the machine. 
 
 The barrel can be tilted to an angle sufficiently high 
 to empty the contents into a basket or container that may 
 be placed under it, or by loosening a wing screw nut the 
 entire barrel may be removed with the work in it and used 
 as a dipping basket for rinsing purposes. 
 
 The density of the solutions, current pressure, and 
 time of deposit, when using curved elliptic anodes, is 
 practically the same as that given for the horizontal type 
 on pages 177 and 178. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 181 
 
 Centrifugal Dryer for Small Work. — This machine is 
 now being- used extensively in plating shops for drying 
 quickly large quantities of small work, buckles, buttons, 
 bolts, nuts, ferrules, and similar articles, excepting those 
 having recessed or pocket-like formations, without an 
 outlet from which the moisture can escape. These can- 
 
 Centrifugal Dryer, for small work, 
 
 not be successfully dried in this manner, as the motion 
 imparted by the machine will cause the moisture to 
 remain in the hollow places instead of throwing it off. 
 
 It is claimed that by the use of this machine, time, heat, 
 and sawdust are saved ; a greater bulk of work handled 
 in a day, and the staining of nickel-plated work greatly 
 reduced. 
 
152 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 One to three minutes only is necessary for the opera- 
 tion. 
 
 The work is placed in a removable tapering- pan which 
 fits over a vertical shaft. A cover for the pan is screwed 
 on the top of the shaft ; this prevents the work from being- 
 thrown out. The rapid centrifugal motion causes all 
 moisture to be forced up and over the side of the pan. 
 It is then caught by an inward curved flange of the outer 
 shell and runs off to a pail placed under an outlet pipe. 
 
SECTION VIII. 
 BURNISHING. 
 
 Steel Burnishers. — Burnishing: is a 
 branch of the electro-plating industry in 
 a class by itself and the beginner must 
 not expect to obtain very good results, as 
 to do this requires long and careful prac- 
 tice. 
 
 Burnishing is done to lay down the 
 frosty or porous deposits of silver or 
 gold, while at the same time it improves the finish and 
 makes a harder and tougher surface. 
 
 Burnishing is often done on articles having fancy relief 
 patterns or raised borders in order to show a marked con- 
 trast to the body of the work. 
 
 To do this work properly the article must be held so 
 that it will at all times be under the control of the opera- 
 tor without any unnecessary exertion. Attach to the 
 workbench a small projecting- shelf about 6 inches long 
 by 6 inches wide and about the height of a low desk. The 
 shelf should be covered with a cushion of canton flannel 
 
 183 
 
184 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 or other soft material tacked on the underside. This 
 will keep the work from scratching. This shelf is called 
 the peg. The operator can then work while sitting. 
 
 It is necessary to use some pressure. Hold the tool 
 firm with the right hand close to the blade, the end of the 
 handle resting on the operator's left breast. The rounded 
 edges of the tool are the parts to use. Use the narrow 
 edge for first cutting or laying down the metal and the 
 thicker edge for the final polishing. 
 
 Steel Burnishers. 
 
 Slide the tool back and forth over the work with a 
 swift wrist motion, keeping the tool on the work. Care 
 must be taken that the tool does not cut or scrape the 
 work. 
 
 The tool should be frequently dipped in a jar of soap 
 water. Tack a piece of walrus or heavy leather on the 
 bench near the operator for the purpose of keeping 
 the tool highly polished. Cut two small grooves in the 
 leather; in one sprinkle some fine flour emery, in the 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 1 85 
 
 other sprinkle some fine quality powdered crocus. Rub 
 the edges of the tool frequently first in the emery and 
 then in the crocus. The tool will soon form deep 
 grooves for itself which will aid in the polishing. Bur- 
 nishers are made in many different shapes to suit the 
 various styles of work. 
 
SECTION IX. 
 LACQUERS. 
 
 Lacquers are used for coating- finished metal articles 
 to keep them from tarnishing, while at the same time they 
 improve the luster. 
 
 Articles coated with good quality lacquer may readily 
 be cleansed by wiping- with a damp cloth ; thus fly specks, 
 accumulations of dust, etc., can be removed from fine arti- 
 cles without the necessity of refinishing. 
 
 187 
 
l88 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. ■• 
 
 There are two ways in which to use lacquers, and they 
 are made accordingly ; one to be used as a dip, called dip 
 lacquer ; the other to be applied by a brush, called brush 
 lacquer. 
 
 They are made in many grades of the following kinds : 
 transparent dip, transparent brush, black dip, black 
 brush, colored brush (all colors), red gold brush, yellow 
 gold brush. 
 
 Dip Lacquers.— Use a tin-lined wooden tank, enam- 
 eled iron tank, glass jar, or earthenware pot. Do not use 
 zinc or galvanized iron tanks, as they will often discolor 
 and spoil the lacquer. When not in use keep tightly 
 covered to prevent evaporation and to keep out dust. 
 
 The work must be absolutely clean, the same as for 
 plating. 
 
 Arrange the goods so the lacquer will run off properly. 
 
 Allow them to drip over the tank until the lacquer 
 stops flowing. 
 
 Dry in a temperature of ioo° Fahr., if possible, using a 
 thermometer. Dip lacquers will dry in the air, but bak- 
 ing improves the finish. 
 
 Use the lacquer as shipped until it shows a drip or 
 nipple in drying. When the body becomes too heavy, it 
 needs "thinner." Be sure to use only a thinner of the 
 same grade as the lacquer. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 189 
 
 If the work shows rainbow colors, give it a second clip 
 after the first coat has dried. This will often remedy the 
 trouble. 
 
 Brush Lacquer. 
 
 Brush Lacquers. — Brush lacquers cannot be used as 
 thin as dip lacquers. 
 
 Use as thin as possible without showing rainbow colors. 
 
 Give a flowing coat with a soft lacquer brush. A stiff 
 brush will require a thicker lacquer and will cause foam- 
 ing or small air bubbles. When the body becomes too 
 heavy it needs "thinner." Be sure to use only a thinner 
 of the same grade as the lacquer. 
 
 Dry in a temperature of ioo° Fahr. if possible, using a 
 thermometer. Brush lacquers will dry in the air, but 
 baking improves the finish. 
 
190 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING". 
 
 Rainbow colors are, in most cases, 
 caused by the lacquer being too thin 
 or by carelessness in removing - the pol- 
 ishing composition or rouge from the 
 work. 
 
 Grease is very injurious to lacquer. 
 
 Rainbow colors will often disappear 
 when the article is given a second coat- 
 ing of lacquer after the first has dried. 
 
 Gold Lacquers. — In nearly all instances gold lacquer 
 is made for brush use only and cannot be used to advan- 
 tage by dipping. 
 
 Gold lacquer is seldom shipped ready for use. It is 
 sent out in transparent form with a suitable quantity of 
 red or yellow gold color dye. 
 
 It is mixed by adding the gold dye in very small quan- 
 tities to the transparent lacquer until the desired shade is 
 obtained. If possible it should stand about 24 hours 
 before being used, and can then be applied in the same 
 manner as ordinary brush lacquers. 
 
 Special Directions to LacqiLcrcrs. — Special care must be 
 taken in preparing the articles for lacquering, as this will 
 add greatly to the finished product. In nearly all 
 instances when complaints have been made the cause was 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 191 
 
 proved to be due to inexperience, improper cleaning, or 
 carelessness in application. 
 
 If lacquer is too thin, it will show iridescent colors. 
 
 If lacquer it too heavy, it will show a drip when used 
 for dipping ; it then needs a thinner. 
 
 If lacquered articles show a white, milky cloud, it is 
 always due to moisture or grease. It requires only the 
 smallest amount of moisture to ruin the work. 
 
 Be careful of escaping steam from the radiator or 
 pipes, or damp air from an open window. 
 
 Removing Lacquer from Work. — Lacquer may be 
 removed from work by immersion in a hot Kostico, pot- 
 ash, or lye solution. The work should then be cleaned 
 in the same manner as when preparing it for plating. 
 
 When it is necessary to remove lacquer from work 
 which for any reason cannot be dipped in Kostico or 
 potash solutions, it may be removed by immersing it in 
 lacquer thinner, or by liberal applications of the same. 
 
 Care should be taken to use only a thinner of the same 
 grade as the lacquer. 
 
 The Lacquer Room. — When possible a separate room 
 should be used for lacquering, or a portion of the shop 
 may be partitioned off for this purpose, in order to avoid 
 all dust or moisture. 
 
I9 2 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 The lacquer room should be light, dry, and well ven- 
 tilated. When it is necessary to use artificial light, it is 
 safer and better to use incandescent lamps. 
 
 Do not have a stove or gaslight near the lacquer 
 room, as both the lacquer and thinner, as well as the 
 gases which arise from them, are very inflammable.- 
 
 Lacquer Dryers or Ovens.— The most suitable dryers 
 for this purpose are sheet metal ovens, zinc-lined wooden 
 ovens, or wooden closets with dust-proof doors; these to 
 contain a steam radiator with regulating valves on the 
 outside. 
 
 Rods or hooks can be placed at a convenient height 
 on which to suspend the work with wires; shelves or 
 racks of wire netting will also be found very convenient. 
 
 Hang a thermometer in the dryer. 
 
 Keep temperature at about ioo° Fahr. 
 
 Lacquer Spraying. — Manufacturers of metal goods 
 are now successfully applying lacquers to their product 
 by the use of sprayers operated by air pressure supplied 
 by power. 
 
 Chandeliers, hardware, buckles, buttons, etc., also the 
 finest finishes in gold and silver, are being lacquered in 
 this manner. 
 
 The claim is made that by the use of this method both 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 193 
 
 time and labor are saved and that the finish obtained is 
 superior to brush lacquered work, especially so when 
 applying colors or the various shades of gold lacquer. 
 
 Large quantities of work can be finished in a short 
 time and the percentage of loss in material, which at 
 first thought would appear to be great, is comparatively 
 small. 
 
 The most satisfactory sprayers are small and light in 
 weight. They may be fitted to a bottle or similar con- 
 tainer in which to hold the supply of lacquer. 
 
 The air pressure supply is delivered through a flexible 
 rubber tube, thus allowing the operator to hold the 
 sprayer in any desired position. 
 
 The sprayers contain a spray regulator, which provides 
 for an instant increase or diminish of flow as the operator 
 may desire. The lacquer can be placed on the work 
 exactly where required and distributed very evenly. 
 
 The sprayers are not very expensive ; the greatest 
 expense is to install the necessary air pressure plant. 
 
 Many of the present day shops are already equipped 
 with air pressure plants for soldering or sand blasting 
 purposes. In these shops a sprayer outfit could be in- 
 stalled at slight expense. 
 
 Dip lacquers are generally used for spraying purposes. 
 These should have a much thinner body than when used 
 as a regular dip. 
 
i 9 4 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO- PLATING. 
 
 Lacquer Brushes, Rubberset. — When applying- lac- 
 quers always use the best brush obtainable. 
 
 The rubberset brush can safely be recommended as the 
 best for this purpose. The bristles are set in solid rubber, 
 and cannot come out. 
 
 Cheap brushes are poorly made; they will shed the 
 bristles in the lacquer and on the work, often making it 
 necessary to finish the work the second time. 
 
 Rubberset Lacquer Brush. 
 
 The best results can be obtained by using a flat rubber- 
 set camel's-hair brush, but for many classes of work a 
 flat rubberset fitch-hair brush will answer. 
 
 It is very important that lacquer brushes be kept clean, 
 soft, and free from moisture. After using keep the 
 brushes suspended in a wide-mouthed bottle or covered 
 tin, containing thinner of a suitable grade. Do not allow 
 the bristles to rest on the bottom. 
 
 New brushes should be worked out a little on a rough 
 board in order to release any short, loose bristles that 
 may not have been imbedded in the rubber. 
 
SECTION X. 
 BATTERIES. 
 
 Batteries are often used in place of dynamos for exper- 
 imental purposes, also for regular electro-plating in a 
 small way. 
 
 "//. &> V. W." Battery No. i. 
 
 "H. & V. W." Battery No. i, 1.9 Volts, 15 Ampere 
 Hours, Positive (Carbon), Negative (Zinc). — This is a 
 Bunsen cell of great power and is particularly adapted for 
 use with nickel, copper, brass, or bronze solutions. 
 
 i95 
 
I96 PRACTICAL ELECTRO- PLATING. 
 
 Directions. — Amalgamate the zinc inside and outside. 
 Place this in the glass jar. Inside the zinc place the por- 
 ous cup, and within the porous cup the carbon plates. 
 Fill porous cup nearly full with nitric acid. Fill the 
 outer jar with a mixture of 1 part oil of vitriol to 12 
 parts of water (previously mixed and allowed to cool) 
 to a height equal to the liquid in the porous cup. When 
 the outer liquid becomes milky, withdraw it with a 
 syringe or siphon and refill, adding occasionally small 
 quantities of nitric acid to the porous cup. Keep the zinc 
 thoroughly amalgamated. The best results may be 
 obtained when used in this manner. 
 
 No. 1 Battery Connected to Plating Tank. 
 
 Battery Salts. — Battery salts may be used in place of 
 the diluted oil of vitriol avoiding the necessity of amal- 
 gamating the zinc, using about 2 pounds, leaving some 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 197 
 
 undissolved. This avoids the danger of having mercury 
 around gold work. Glass strips may be placed between 
 the porous cup and zinc to prevent contact. 
 
 Electropoion solution may be substituted for the nitric 
 acid in either case. 
 
 Before amalgamating the. zinc, dip it in lye or potash 
 solution to remove o-rease. Rinse in cold water, then 
 
 "H. &> V. Wr Battery No. 2. 
 
 place it in the amalgamating solution. The mercury 
 will readily adhere to the zinc. After using the battery 
 remove porous cup, carbons, and zinc, pour the contents 
 of the porous cup in a glass jar, wash all three in clean 
 water and put away for further use. 
 
198 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 "H. & V. W." Battery No. 2, Positive (Carbon), 
 Negative (Zinc). — This is a small sized Smee battery 
 and is suitable for small silver and gold plating solu- 
 tions. 
 
 No. 2 Batteries Connected to Plating Tank. 
 
 Directions. — Amalgamate the zincs. Fill the jar to 
 within about one inch of the wooden support with a 
 mixture 1 part oil of vitriol to 10 parts of water. When 
 plating very small surfaces a small quantity of the dilute 
 acid may be used. For silver, 1 cell will give a very 
 fine deposit, but when used with a striking solution 2 
 cells should be used, connected zinc to carbon. 
 
 When exhausted, renew the solution. Two ounces of 
 chromic acid or bichromate of potash may be added to 
 each cell to increase power for nickel plating. After 
 using remove the zincs :\m\ carbon and wash them in 
 clean water. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 199 
 
 Smee Battery, E. M. R, .5 Volt, Positive (Carbon), 
 Negative (Zinc). — For use with silver and gold solu- 
 tions. This is a well-known battery and needs little 
 explanation. They are regularly furnished in 4 sizes. 
 
 Directions. — Amalgamate the zincs and fill jar to 
 within about one inch of the wooden support with a mix- 
 ture of 1 part oil of vitriol to 10 parts of water. After 
 using remove zincs and carbons, and wash them in clean 
 water. 
 
 Smee Battery. 
 
 Primary Batteries. "Modes of Arranging Cells— -If 
 two similar cells be joined, carbon to carbon and zinc to 
 zinc, the electro-motive force is no more altered than 
 would be the total fluid pressure produced by placing 
 
200 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 two pails of water side by side upon a level floor, in 
 place of one ; for both the cells are yielding- the same 
 pressure of electricity, and the mere coupling- them in 
 parallel arc, as it is termed, is only equal in effect to in- 
 creasing- the size of a single cell, which is without influ- 
 ence on the E. M. F. But if the cells be disposed with 
 the carbon of one joined to the zinc of the next, and the 
 free elements connected to the main circuit, the current 
 
 Smee Battery Connected to Plating Tank. 
 
 generated in the first cell has to flow through the 
 second, and that of the second through the first, in 
 order to complete the whole circuit, with the result that 
 the total electro-motive force is doubled. This ar- 
 rangement, which is termed coupling in series, is exactly 
 analogous to lifting the one pail of water above referred 
 to and placing it upon the other, when the pressure is. 
 of course, doubled. In setting- up any number of cells, 
 if placed all parallel, the E. M. F. is only that of one cell, 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 20I 
 
 but the internal resistance is reduced, as it would be in 
 one large cell of the same type ; while, if all are arranged 
 in series, the E. M. F. will be raised in direct proportion 
 to the number of cells in use." 
 
 Cells in Series. 
 
 Cells in Multiple. 
 
 Cells in Multiple- Series. 
 
 Amalgamating Solution for Battery Zincs. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water i gallon. 
 
 Corrosive sublimate i pound. 
 
 Muriatic acid i pint. 
 
 Mix in order named. 
 
 Dissolve the corrosive sublimate in hot water. 
 
 The zinc must be thoroughly cleaned before it can be 
 properly amalgamated. This should be done by immers- 
 ing it in a solution of lye or potash, after which rinse 
 in clean, cold water. Then place the zinc in the amal- 
 
202 PRACTICAL ELECTROPLATING. 
 
 gamating solution, and the mercury will readily adhere 
 to it. 
 
 Another method of amalgamating zinc is to clean it 
 by dipping in diluted sulphuric acid and rubbing on 
 metallic mercury with a cloth or brush. 
 
 Electropoion Solution. 
 
 Formula : 
 
 Water % gallon. 
 
 Oil of vitriol i quart. 
 
 Bichromate soda, pulverized i^ pounds. 
 
 Mix in order named. 
 
 Pour the oil of vitriol slowly in the water, and at the 
 same time keep stirring the mixture, which will become 
 hot. 
 
 While the mixture is still hot stir in the bichromate of 
 soda. 
 
 When cold the solution is ready for use. 
 
SECTION XL 
 
 THREE SYSTEMS OF CURRENT 
 DISTRIBUTION. 
 
 It is of advantage to the operator of a plating dynamo 
 to have clearly fixed in his mind the various methods of 
 wiring, in order that he may distribute the current gen- 
 erated by the dynamo to the best possible advantage. 
 
 To illustrate three methods of current distribution the 
 following clear electrical diagrams are given, with water 
 analogues, for comparison, in each instance. 
 
 Fig. i illustrates the series system, usually employed 
 in copper refining, or in the recovery of metal, E being 
 the engine, G the dynamo or generator, P and N the posi- 
 tive and negative conductor, and i 1 , i 2 , i 3 , i 4 , the tanks. 
 In this illustration, as will be noticed, the current passes 
 from the dynamo through all the tanks in the series, each 
 tank taking its proportion of the initial voltage, the total 
 ampere capacity of the dynamo, if the work surface calls 
 for this amount, being used in each tank, the initial vol- 
 tage, however, being divided by the number of tanks in 
 
 series, as stated above. 
 
 203 
 
204 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Fig. 2 illustrates the water analogue, in which E is 
 the engine, G the rotary pump, and P and N the positive 
 and negative pipes conveying the water; i 1 , i 2 , I 3 , and i 4 
 are in this case water motors, arranged in series and 
 
 xrxrx: 
 
 T T T 
 
 »M A < A i & <• 
 
 operated one after the other by the water passing from 
 
 the first motor to the second motor, and so on through 
 
 the series, each motor using its proportion of the energy. 
 
 In Fig. 3 is represented the usual multiple arc, or 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 205 
 
 parallel arrangement of plating tanks, each tank taking 
 the current from the positive conductor and delivering 
 it with a certain fall of voltage to the negative conduc- 
 tor. 
 
 3-+ 
 
 VoWs 
 
 Vo\ts 
 
 2-^ 
 
 ^Ttrx 
 
 -n_^ 1 < — J * — 6 «— 1^" 
 
 Fig. 4 illustrates the water analogue to the multiple 
 arc system, each motor taking water from the positive 
 pipe and delivering it to the negative pipe, with a fall of 
 potential due to the amount of energy absorbed in the 
 motors. 
 
 In Figs. 5 are shown two like multiple arc systems, 
 placed parallel with each other, with the positive con- 
 
206 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 ductor of one system adjoining the negative conductor 
 of the adjacent system, the arrows indicating the direc- 
 tion of the current in each system. 
 
 It will be seen that if the same amount of energy is 
 absorbed in each of these two systems, the negative con- 
 ductor N of the upper system must carry a negative 
 current exactly equal to the positive current carried in 
 the conductor P of the lower system, and the currents 
 in these two conductors being equal and opposite would 
 neutralize each other if carried on the same conductor. 
 as is indicated in Fig. 6, in which the negative conduc- 
 tor N and positive conductor P are merged in one. In 
 this case, with the generators G and G arranged in series, 
 the electro-motive force being 10 volts (which is 'suited 
 to two 5 volt tanks in mechanical series), so long as 
 equal resistances are placed in the two parts of this cir- 
 cuit (called three-wire system), the central wire remains 
 neutral, and no current passes in either direction ; but as 
 soon as this balance is disturbed by cutting out or adding 
 one or more tanks, a current due to the difference in -the 
 resistance of the two branches passes over the neutral 
 wire. This system is illustrated by the water analogue 
 shown in Fig. 7. 
 
 Fig. 7. In this case two generators, or pumps, G and 
 G, circulate the water through the system; the upper 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 207 
 
 outside pipe representing the positive conductor, the 
 lower pipe representing the negative conductor, and the 
 central pipe the neutral conductor. Upon each side of 
 the neutral pipe and communicating with the outside 
 pipes are motors corresponding to the tanks in the elec- 
 tric circuit. So long as the quantity of water consumed 
 by the motors on both sides of the central pipe remains 
 the same, the water is circulated by passing forward 
 
 through the upper pipe, through the. motors, transversely 
 through the neutral pipe, returning to dynamo by the 
 lower pipe; but as soon as the equilibrium is disturbed 
 by shutting off one or more of the motors on one side of 
 the system, the water which would have been required 
 to run that motor must return to the pumps through the 
 neutral pipe, or be forced outward through the neutral 
 pipe, according as the positive or negative current is shut 
 off. This latter system of current distribution is highly 
 
208 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 advantageous for shops operating a number of solutions, 
 requiring different voltages, for, with the three-wire 
 dynamos which may now be obtained, it is possible to 
 take from the machine two different voltages at the same 
 time, one voltage being twice that of the other. Where 
 plating barrels are operated or basket work is handled, 
 requiring a high voltage, a current strength of 10 or 12 
 volts may be obtained by connecting the tank to the. 
 negative and positive main conductors. If at the same 
 time it is necessary to operate tanks at the ordinary low 
 voltage, this current may be taken from the dynamo by 
 connecting the tanks to the neutral conductor and to 
 either the positive or negative conductor. 
 
THE THREE-WIRE SYSTEM OF 
 CURRENT DISTRIBUTION. 
 
 This method of current distribution has been generally 
 adopted in the larger shops where a variety of solutions 
 are in use. The operator familiar with electro-depo- 
 sition understands the necessity of employing different 
 voltage strengths in different solutions, and it has been 
 generally recognized by experts that a stronger voltage 
 and higher current density can be advantageously used in 
 many solutions where it was formerly thought a low vol- 
 tage only could be employed. 
 
 The necessity of shortening time of deposit without 
 deterioration of the quality of work has been apparent; 
 this condition is effected through the agitation of the 
 solution, and the consequent employment of a higher 
 voltage, with proportionate increase in the ampere cur- 
 rent. The majority of plating dynamos in general use 
 are capable of delivering 4 to t> volts only, and their use 
 precludes the adoption of the newer labor-saving method. 
 To meet the demand for generators that will deliver .a 
 higher range of voltage, dynamos are now constructed 
 to operate on the three-wire system, which will deliver 
 a range of voltage up to- 12 volts or higher if desired. 
 
 209 
 
2IO PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 These three-wire dynamos are constructed to deliver 4 
 and 8 volts, 5 and 10 volts, 6 and 12 volts, and 8 and 16 
 volts. By the use of these dynamos it is possible to take 
 from the machine, voltages of two different strengths, at 
 the same time, the higher voltage being double that of 
 the lower, and thus provide a high pressure for mechan- 
 ical plating apparatus, basket work, or agitated solutions, 
 and at the same time operate solutions at a low voltage. 
 
 On page 211a diagram is given indicating a few of the 
 methods which may be used. For example, a dynamo 
 is taken having a capacity of 2,000 amperes at 5 volts, 
 and 1,000 amperes at 10 volts, connections being arranged 
 for the three-wire system. 
 
 In wiring for this system, three main line conductors 
 are used, the positive and negative, or outside lines, and 
 the neutral or middle line. In this method of wiring- 
 there is a saving of over 37 per cent, effected in the cost 
 of copper, as it is not necessary to use conductors of so 
 large a cross-section as would be the case in the ordinary 
 two-wire system. 
 
 By connecting tanks to the outside or positive and 
 negative conductors, 10 volts are obtained in the tank. 
 By connecting tanks to the positive and neutral con- 
 ductors, or to the negative and neutral conductors, 5 
 volts are obtained. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 211 
 
 o 
 
 1 
 
 fcO 
 
 r \ 
 
 -i 
 
212 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Where loads in the tank are equal, as shown in ex- 
 ample C, the course of the current is from the generator 
 along positive line, through the tank, transversely 
 through the neutral conductor, through the next tank in 
 series, to the negative conductor, thence returning to 
 the dynamo. When loads are unequal, one tank being 
 empty or having a smaller work surface than the other 
 tanks, the two sides of the series are unbalanced, one 
 side calling for more current than the other. This con- 
 dition, however, is taken care of by the neutral wire, the 
 surplus current flowing along the neutral wire to the 
 dynamo, and the balance between the remaining tanks in 
 the series is maintained. 
 
 Explanation of Diagram. — In example A are shown 
 two tanks connected to outside conductors, taking col- 
 lectively the full capacity of the dynamo at 10 volts. 
 
 In example B is shown a number of tanks connected 
 in series, taking the full capacity of the dynamo at 5 
 volts. 
 
 In example C the dynamo is distributing its entire 
 current to a number of tanks, part taking 5 volts, the 
 balance taking io. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 213 
 
 Method of 'Connecting Dynamo, Tanks, and Instruments. Three- Wire System. 
 
SECTION XII. 
 
 MANAGEMENT OF A MODERN 
 PLATING DYNAMO. 
 
 Location. — It is necessary, for successful operation, 
 that the dynamo be located in a clean, dry place, pref- 
 erably of low temperature, and that the foundation or 
 pier upon which the machine rests, be substantially con- 
 structed of such material as will reduce the vibration to a 
 minimum. 
 
 Field Rheostat. — A rheostat is necessary in the held 
 of the dynamo, where it will control the voltage along 
 the entire line of connection, enabling an initial current 
 strength to be maintained, while the tank rheostats 
 further reduce this current to the proportions required. 
 
 The field rheostat affects the voltage by setting a fixed 
 resistance in the field of the dynamo, but does not affect 
 the ampere capacity, except in a small degree. On the 
 other hand, a rheostat placed between the main line and 
 tank affects both voltage and amperes, reducing the latter 
 in same proportion as the former is cut down. 
 
 215 
 
2l6 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Contacts, Cleanliness. — It is important that all con- 
 tacts and connections of main lines, field coils, and rheo- 
 stats be kept clean and bright in order to obtain the least 
 resistance and best possible conductivity. Bolts and 
 •screws used for connecting should be examined fre- 
 quently for perfect contact. Loose connections offer 
 resistance, cause heating of the conductors, arcking, and. 
 
 Woven- Wire Dynamo Brush. 
 
 These brushes, made of high conductivity gauze, are the 
 best preventive of sparking or scoring the commutator. 
 
 in some cases, the entire breaking of the circuit by being 
 burned off, through not having sufficient cross-section of 
 conductor at the 'weak point to carry the required amount 
 of current. The heat of the arc being very intense, a 
 small one, if allowed to continue for a short time, will 
 melt a very large conductor. Copper conductors, if not 
 of sufficient cross-section, heat readily. Wrenches, ham- 
 mers, oil cans, etc., should not be left near the dynamo, 
 as they often cause serious trouble, either from vibration 
 or the force of maenetism. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 21? 
 
 Grinding of Brushes. — The brushes should not be 
 permitted to bear so hard on the commutator that they 
 grind, as this will cause a copper dust to accumulate on 
 the commutator, causing much trouble, injuring the in- 
 sulation of the commutator and field coils. 
 
 The brushes must be set with sufficient tension to take 
 up the current from commutator, but under no circum- 
 stances should they bear so hard on commutators that 
 they grind. 
 
 A Multipolar Type Armature having Two Commutators . 
 
 The Armature. — Too much care cannot be exercised 
 in handling the armature, as from the manner of con- 
 struction — the mounting of wires upon a shaft — they are 
 susceptible to any blow or unusual strain, which might 
 cause an abrasion of the wires or a shifting from their 
 true position. 
 
 When handling the armature it is advisable to use only 
 rope and wooden bars, the bars to be placed under the 
 body. It should be handled by the shaft as much as 
 
215 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 possible, never by the commutator ; nor should the weight 
 of the armature, under any circumstances, rest upon the 
 commutator. 
 
 Field Magnets. — If the field magnets, yoke, or pole- 
 pieces have been removed, the joints should be thor- 
 oughly cleaned before replacing, then bolted together as 
 tightly as possible. Imperfect joints, as well as dirt 
 between iron in a magnetic circuit, cause resistance to the 
 flow of magnetism, which resistance, if increased, dimin- 
 ishes the efficiency of the machine. 
 
 Bearings. — An unusual heating of the bearings is 
 especially noticeable when the boxes, or sleeves, have 
 been replaced after having been removed for an exami- 
 nation. It is almost impossible to replace the boxes in 
 their exact previous position, and, like a new bearing, 
 they should be carefully watched, the machine being 
 allowed to run slowly for a short time until the bearings 
 reach the proper temperature and the shaft runs evenly. 
 New dynamos are very apt to heat abnormally for the 
 first few days. They should be carefully watched and 
 liberally supplied with oil during that time, after which 
 they should run at normal temperature. After a dynamo 
 has been running a short time under full load, its arma- 
 ture imparts a certain amount of heat to the bearings ; a 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 2IO, 
 
 little more to the bearings on the commutator end of 
 shaft; beyond this there is no excuse for excessive heat- 
 ing. The latter may result from a variety of causes, 
 some of which are given in the following, with remedies 
 for same : — 
 
 Cause— Poor quality of oil, presence of dirt or gritty 
 matter in the oil. 
 
 Remedy. — The speed at which a dynamo runs calls for 
 the use of a perfect lubricant, and only those oils adapted 
 to the requirements should be used. The special require- 
 ments of a good oil are : sufficient body to keep the sur- 
 faces between which it is interposed from coming into 
 contact under the greatest pressure, and the greatest 
 adhesion to metallic surfaces. Mineral oils are superior. 
 The fluidity should be as great as is consistent with the 
 above conditions. 
 
 Cause. — Journal boxes too tight. 
 
 Remedy. — Tight journal boxes produce excessive 
 friction; the bolts should be removed, a small piece of 
 cardboard of the proper size and thickness inserted, and 
 the box again bolted down. 
 
 Cause. — Rough journals — badly scraped boxes. 
 
 Remedy. — Rough journals are generally caused by 
 foreign substances carried in with the oil. When so 
 injured, the boxes should- be taken out and re-scraped ; 
 
220 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 care must be exercised to scrape the complete exposed 
 surface of the box. 
 
 Cause. — Belt too tight (a frequent cause of trouble). 
 
 Remedy. — The belt governs the speed of the dynamo, 
 thus regulating- the voltag'e, and for successful running 
 it must fulfill several conditions. The best possible belt 
 is an endless one, perfectly straight and of equal thick- 
 ness. When lacing a belt the ends should be cut at right 
 angles to the sides, and holes made oval in shape, length- 
 wise to the belt. The lacing should be started at the 
 center and carried to each edg'e, to give uniform 
 strength; never cross the lace on the inside of the belt. 
 Long centers between the driving and driven pulleys are 
 desirable, as the belt can run much slacker; 10 to 15 feet 
 is a good average. The belt should be arranged to pull 
 from the underside of the dynamo pulley, its weight with 
 the large circumferential contact developing a greater 
 transmitting power. Tight belts, as well as vertical belts, 
 are very objectionable, the former producing a very un- 
 evenly distributed strain upon the bearings and greatly 
 increasing the wear. A vibrating ammeter needle indi- 
 cates that the belt is slipping and not carrying its proper 
 load, and should be taken up; while a failure to maintain 
 the standard voltage, with the proper resistance in the 
 fields, indicates that the speed of the dynamo is not high 
 enough, and that the belt should be tightened. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 221 
 
 Cause. — Bearings out of line. 
 
 Remedy. — Bearings out of line will generally show by 
 the belts running over the side of the pulley, or some- 
 times the belt will be thrown out of line by an uneven 
 setting of the dynamo. 
 
 Cause. — Overload on dynamo. 
 
 Remedy. — When a dynamo is overloaded it ma} 7 
 readily be detected by the ammeter, which will register 
 higher than the rated capacity of the machine. There 
 is also an excessive heating of the bearings, armature, 
 and field coils, as well as sparking at the commutator. 
 The dynamo should be immediately relieved, for, beside 
 the injury liable to the machine itself, the overload 
 causes an extra strain upon the belt, which, of course, 
 impairs it for the regular load. 
 
 Cause. — Bent armature shaft. 
 
 Remedy. — Bent armature shafts are of rather rare 
 occurrence, but when one becomes bent it should be 
 straightened by a skillful machinist. An armature run- 
 ning untrue is dangerous, as the mounted wires are liable 
 to strike the pole-pieces and cause considerable damage. 
 
 The Commutator. — There is no portion of a dynamo 
 which requires more care and attention than the commu- 
 tator and brushes. Although it is a comparatively easy 
 
222 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 matter to keep these parts in proper working- order, in 
 many plating rooms the condition of the dynamo shows 
 absolute negligence or ignorance on the part of the 
 attendant in charge. 
 
 A commutator in good condition should present a 
 smooth, g'lazed or polished, dark brown or chocolate- 
 colored appearance, and have a true circumference. The 
 latter can be readily tested by allowing the back of the 
 
 Commutator . 
 
 finger nail to rest upon it when in motion ; the nail being 
 very sensitive to any irregularity, the condition is at once 
 indicated. Grooves and ridges cut in the commutator 
 are caused by using brushes with hard burnt ends, which 
 are not pliable, also by too great a pressure of the brushes 
 upon the commutator. Sparking at the brushes is 
 expensive and detrimental, chiefly because it results in 
 burning the brushes and commutator. Every spark 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 22$ 
 
 consumes a particle of copper, torn from the commutator 
 or. brushes. The longer the sparking continues, the 
 greater the evil becomes, and the remedy should be 
 applied without delay. 
 
 Lubricating Commutator. — An excellent method of 
 lubricating the commutator is by the use of a piece of 
 soft felt, called a "felt oiler/' This should be the full 
 length of the commutator and shaped to tit snugly 
 between the brush holder and commutator, as shown in 
 the illustrations on pages 224 and 22^. The felt should 
 be kept moist (not saturated) with a good quality cylin- 
 der oil. In this manner the oiler will keep the commu- 
 tator properly lubricated, while at the same time it will 
 take up any particles of dust or grit that may get on it. 
 
 Causes of Sparking and Remedies. 
 
 Cause. — Brushes not set at the neutral point. 
 
 Remedy. — The brushes having been previously set 
 diametrically opposite, they can be readily adjusted by 
 moving the rocker arm backward or forward, until the 
 non-sparking point is found. 
 
 Cause. — Brushes not set diametrically at opposite 
 points. 
 
 Remedy. — Great care must be taken to have the 
 brushes set diametrically . opposite each other before 
 
224 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 starting, as their readjustment while running is trouble- 
 some. If any individual brush sparks while the other 
 brushes are working perfectly, it is out of alignment. To 
 adjust, shift brush in holder and ascertain non-sparking 
 point by trial. 
 
 Correct Position of Brushes oji Commutator of a Bipolar 
 Dynamo, showing Felt Oiler in place. 
 
 Cause. — Brushes set so as not to get full bevel to the 
 circumference of commutator. 
 
 Remedy. — Readjustment must be made to secure full 
 contact of the face of brush on commutator at proper 
 bevel. 
 
 Cause. — Brushes set with insufficient pressure. 
 
 Remedy. — This fault can be remedied by increasing 
 the tension on the spring of the brush holder. 
 
 Cause. — Face of brushes spread apart and filled with 
 oil and dirt. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 225 
 
 Remedy. — Oil, copper dust, and dirt will accumulate 
 between the wires of the brushes and spread the ends 
 apart. All this can be removed by thoroughly washing" 
 the brushes in benzine, or in a hot solution of sal soda 
 or strong potash water. 
 
 Correct Position of Brushes on Commutator of a Multipolar 
 Dynamo, showing Felt Oiler in place. 
 
 Brushes so badly burned that pliability is lost, should 
 be thrown away; but if still pliable and of sufficient 
 length, cut off the burnt portion and file to proper bevel. 
 
226 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Commutator Bar Loose, High or Low. 
 
 Remedy. — A single high bar in the commutator will 
 vibrate the brush, causing poor contact and consequent 
 sparking. A heavier tension must be applied to the 
 spring of the brush holder until the dynamo is stopped, 
 when it can be repaired. 
 
 If commutator bars are loose, screw up the ring or 
 nut at the end of the commutator. 
 
 If a bar is high, set it down in place with a wooden 
 mallet, and screw up the end nut. 
 
 If a bar is low, screw the end nut firmly in place, and 
 turn the commutator true in a lathe. 
 
 Can se— '-Loose connection between armature coil and 
 commutator bar. 
 
 Remedy. — A loose or broken connection between com- 
 mutator and armature coil will cause a peculiar, blue 
 snapping spark, just as the bar leading to it is passing 
 under the brush. This will show itself on the particular 
 bar having the loose connection. The dynamo should 
 be stopped as soon as possible and the connections of 
 armature examined, and any loose joints properly sold- 
 ered. 
 
 Cause. — Section short-circuited either in the commu- 
 tator or armature coils. 
 
 Remedy. — This requires a thorough examination of 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 227 
 
 the insulation of the commutator and armature, and 
 probably a rewinding- of some of the coils. 
 
 Cause. — Armature damp, with consequent short- 
 circuiting- coils. 
 
 Remedy. — It can be generally dried out by placing it 
 near a source of heat. 
 
 Cause.. — Short or cross on the dynamo mains. 
 
 Remedy. — A cross will cause the brushes to spark and 
 sputter severely. It may be either burned off or the 
 main switch opened until the trouble is removed. 
 
 Cause. — Commutator dirty, oily, rough, worn in 
 ridges, or out of true circumference. 
 
 Remedy. — Oil or dirt can be wiped off with a piece of 
 canvas or waste ; then polish commutator with fine sand- 
 paper. If ridges are worn in the commutator, it must 
 be turned down in a lathe. Never use emery cloth. 
 
 Causes. — Dynamo overloaded. 
 
 Remedy. — This cause of sparking is easily detected 
 at the ammeter. A larger dynamo should be used. 
 
 Cause. — Armature coils or commutator sections short- 
 circuited by accumulation of copper dust. 
 
 Remedy. — The accumulation of copper dust on a dy- 
 namo, and its gradual penetration into the coils of the 
 armature and fields, is often the real cause of serious 
 accident and expensive repairs. This is one of the prin- 
 
225 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 cipal features which denotes carelessness on the part of 
 the operator. 
 
 The dynamo must be kept clean of copper dust and oil. 
 
 General Faults. 
 
 Burning Out of Armature Coils. — This may be occa- 
 sioned by overloading- the armature, causing the insula- 
 tion of the coils to give way, and is indicated by the 
 armature suddenly beginning to smoke. The armature 
 is thus rendered useless, and should be returned to the 
 maker for repairs. 
 
 Ring of Fire Around the Commutator. — This is 
 caused by small particles of copper dust between the bars 
 of the commutator making a local short-circuit from bar 
 to bar across the mica insulation. To remedy it, clean 
 the commutator carefully, and do not allow the brushes 
 to cut and scratch it. 
 
 Reversal of Polarity of the Field Magnets. — This 
 sometimes occurs, especially where several dynamos are 
 located near each other, the strong field of a dynamo 
 while running, reversing the weak polarity of a dynamo 
 shut down; sometimes the return current from the tank 
 will reverse the polarity of the fields. The polarity can 
 be changed by sending the current from another dynamo 
 or battery around the field coils in the proper direction, 
 thus saving the trouble of changing the tank connections, 
 
SECTION XIIL 
 TABLES AND GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 APPROXIMATE SPEEDS FOR EMERY 
 AND POLISHING WHEELS. 
 
 There can be no set rule for the speeds of emery and 
 polishing wheels, owing to so great a variety of work 
 to be done. 
 
 The speeds generally considered by experts to give 
 best results can be determined by the chart, page 230. 
 Trace a vertical line from the figure representing the 
 diameter of the wheel to the curved line and from the 
 intersection point, a horizontal line to the figure, which 
 will give the r. p. m. 
 
 RULES FOR SPEED. 
 
 To Find Speed of Countershaft in Accordance 
 with Main Shaft and Machine. — Subtract the number 
 of revolutions of the main shaft from the number of 
 revolutions the machine should make; divide the re- 
 mainder by two. The quotient will show the number of 
 revolutions of the countershaft. 
 
 229 
 
■3° 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 3200 
 
 
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 EMERY & POLISHING WHEELS 
 
 THE HANSON S VAN WINKLE CO., 
 
 NEWARK, N. J. 
 
 8000 
 
 
 
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 8800 
 
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 11 1G 18 20 22 21 20 
 INCHES DIAMETER OF WHEEL. 
 
 i 32 31 38 
 
 American Machinist 
 
 ' Example. — The main shaft runs 200 revolutions per 
 minute, while the machine should run 1,000 revolutions 
 per minute. Deduct 200 from t,ooo, leaving 1 800, which 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 23 1 
 
 divide by two ; the quotient will then be 400, which is 
 the number of revolutions the countershaft should make. 
 
 To Find Diameter of Pulley on the Main Shaft. — 
 
 Multiply the diameter in inches of the receiving- pulley 
 of the countershaft by the number of revolutions the 
 countershaft should make, and divide the product by the* 
 number of revolutions the main shaft makes. 
 
 Example. — The countershaft runs 400, the receiving 
 pulley is y l /i inches in diameter, and the main shaft runs 
 200; 400 times y l /2 equals 3,000, which, divided by 
 200, equals 15; this is the diameter of pulley on main 
 shaft in inches. 
 
 To Find Diameter of Pulley on Countershaft 
 Carrying Belt to Machine. — Multiply the number of 
 revolutions the machine should make by the diameter of 
 pulley of machine and divide by the number of revolu- 
 tions the countershaft makes. 
 
 Example. -^-Say machine should make 1,000 revolu- 
 tions, the diameter of pulley on machine being 6 inches, 
 and the countershaft making 400 revolutions, then mul- 
 tiplving 1,000 by 6 equals 6,000 ; dividing this by 400 
 gives 15, which should be the diameter of pulley carrying 
 belt from countershaft to- machine. 
 
2^2 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 To Find Speed of a Machine. — Multiply the number 
 of revolutions of the main shaft by the diameter of pulley 
 in inches, and divide by the diameter of receiving pulley 
 of the countershaft. The result is speed of counter- 
 shaft. Then multiply the number of revolutions of 
 countershaft by diameter of transmitting pulley, and 
 divide by diameter of pulley on machine. The result 
 will be speed of machine. It should be well understood 
 that no other pulleys but those in contact with one belt 
 should be considered. 
 
 To Find the Horse Power a Belt will Safely 
 Transmit. — Multiply diameter of pulley in inches by its 
 revolutions per minute and the product by width of belt 
 in inches. Divide this product by 3,300 for single belt- 
 ing or 2,100 for double belting, and the quotient will be 
 the horse power that can be safely transmitted. 
 
 To Find the Length of the Belt. — Add the diameters 
 of the two pulleys, divide by 2 and multiply by 3. 141 6. 
 To this add twice the distance between centers of pulleys. 
 This is practically correct where pulleys are not very 
 different in size, and are to run with short belt. 
 
 A belt velocity of 2,600 per minute is said to give the 
 best results. 
 
 All belts should run as nearly horizontal as possible. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 233 
 
 ANTIDOTES FOR POISONS. 
 
 Sulphuric, nitric, hydrochloric, or glacial acetic acids 
 require magnesia, chalk, whiting, limewater, or carbon- 
 ate of soda administered, stirred up with water. 
 
 Caustic alkalies require vinegar or the juice of an acid 
 fruit or extremely dilute acetic, citric, or tartaric acids. 
 
 Arsenic, — Freshly made hydrated ferric oxide with 
 magnesia. 
 
 Copper, — White of egg mixed with water and plenty 
 of milk. 
 
 Cyanides, — Freshly precipitated peroxide of iron with 
 potassium carbonate, coldest water poured over head and 
 down spine. 
 
 Lead, — A very dilute solution of sulphuric acid. 
 
 Mercury, — White of egg mixed with milk, the white 
 of one egg to each four grains of mercury chloride taken. 
 
 Oxalic acid and oxalates, — Limewater or chalk may 
 be used, but alkaline carbonates must not be used. 
 
 Silver nitrate, — Common salt in solution. 
 
 Zinc salts, — Warm barley water may be taken. 
 
 In all above cases the application of special remedy 
 must be preceded by the use of strong emetics, except 
 in strong acids, when water should be taken to dilute 
 acids before inducing the vomiting. 
 
 For burns and scalds-, around the plating room and 
 
234 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 elsewhere, wet the part with cold water, and sprinkle with 
 bicarbonate of soda (baking- soda) ; the relief is instan- 
 taneous and permanent. 
 
 SOME OF THE CHEMICALS USED IN ELECTRO- 
 PLATING, HAVING TWO OR MORE NAMES. 
 
 Technical Name. Common Name. 
 
 Acetate of copper Distilled verdigris. 
 
 Acetate of lead White sugar of lead. 
 
 Arsenous acid White arsenic. 
 
 Bicarbonate of soda. Baking soda. 
 
 Bichloride of mercury Corrosive sublimate. 
 
 Boric acid Boracic acid. 
 
 Carbonate of lead . .White lead. 
 
 Carbonate of potash Salts tartar. 
 
 Carbonate of soda Sal soda, soda crystals. 
 
 Chloride of ammonia Sal ammoniac. 
 
 Chloride of antimony solution . Butter of antimony. 
 
 Ferric chloride Chloride of iron. 
 
 Ferric oxide Oxide of iron. 
 
 Ferro cyanide potash Yellow prussiate potash. 
 
 Hydrochloric acid Muriatic acid. 
 
 Hydrocyanic acid Prussic acid. 
 
 Hvdrofluoric acid H. F. acid. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 235 
 
 Technical Name. Common Name. 
 
 Muriate of ammonia. . . Powdered sal ammoniac. 
 
 Muriate of soda Common salt. 
 
 Nitrate of potash Saltpeter. 
 
 Oxide of tin Putty powder. 
 
 Single sulphate of nickel . Single nickel salts. 
 Sulphate of nickel and 
 
 ammonia Double nickel salts, nickel salts. 
 
 Spirits sal ammoniac. .. Muriatic acid. 
 
 Stannous chloride Chloride of tin. 
 
 Sulphate of copper Blue vitriol, blue stone. 
 
 Sulphate of iron Copperas. 
 
 Sulphate of soda Glauber's salt. 
 
 Sulphate of zinc White vitriol. 
 
 Sulphuric acid .Oil of vitriol. 
 
 Sulphuret of potash .... Liver of sulphur. 
 
236 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 ROUND COPPER WIRE AND ROD. 
 Approximate Weights per Lineal Foot. 
 
 ^e in. diam. 
 
 .01155 lbs. 
 
 ^| in. diam. 
 
 .047 
 
 v .. . 
 
 
 .106 " 
 
 15" < 
 T6 
 
 
 .189 
 
 I " ' 
 
 
 .296 
 
 ItV. " ' 
 
 
 .426 
 
 T l << ( 
 
 
 •579 
 
 IT 3 6 " ' 
 
 
 •757 " 
 
 I* " < 
 
 
 958 " 
 
 li " ' 
 
 
 1. 182 
 
 If " ' 
 
 
 1. 431 
 
 2 " ' 
 
 
 1.703 
 
 
 
 1.998 lbs 
 
 2.318 
 
 2.660 
 
 3-03 
 3-42 
 3.831 
 4.269 
 
 4-723 
 6.811 
 
 9.27 
 12.108 
 
 ROUND BRASS TUBING USED FOR TANK RODS. 
 Approximate Weights per Lineal Foot. 
 
 i inch O 
 
 D. Wall No. 12 B & S Gauge 
 
 .39 lbs 
 .61 
 
 .76 ' 
 
 .91 ' 
 
 1.06 ' 
 
 1.20 ' 
 
 1-35 ' 
 
 To ascertain the weights of copper tubing add 5% to the above. 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 237 
 
 Avoirdupois "Weight. 
 
 = Ounces 
 
 1 Pound, 16 
 
 1 Ounce, 1 
 
 1 Drachm, 0.062 
 
 Drachms. 
 
 256 
 16 
 
 I 
 
 : Grains. 
 
 7,000 
 437-5 
 27.34 
 
 :Grammes. 
 
 453-25 
 
 28.33 
 
 1.77 
 
 
 Ti 
 
 oy Weight. 
 
 
 
 
 = Ounces. 
 
 = Penny- 
 weight. 
 
 = Grains. 
 
 = Grammes. 
 
 1 Pound,. ...... 
 
 1 Ounce, 
 
 1 Pennyweight,. 
 
 12 
 
 I 
 O.05 
 
 240 
 
 20 
 
 I 
 
 5.76o 
 
 480 
 
 24 
 
 372.96 
 
 31.08 
 
 i-55 
 
 
 Apothecaries* 
 
 Weight. 
 
 
 
 
 = Ounces. 
 
 = Drachms 
 
 = Scruples. 
 
 = Grains. 
 
 = Grammes. 
 
 1 Pound, 
 
 1 Ounce, 
 
 1 Drachm, 
 
 t Scruple, 
 
 12 
 I 
 
 O.125 
 0.042 
 
 96 
 8 
 1 
 o.33 
 
 288 
 
 24 
 
 3 
 
 I 
 
 5.76o 
 
 480 
 
 60 
 
 20 
 
 372.96 
 
 31.08 
 
 3.88 
 
 I.29 
 
>3» 
 
 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Imperial Fluid Measure. 
 
 
 u 
 
 a! 
 
 a 
 
 II 
 
 en 
 
 £ 
 11 
 
 t3 en 
 
 ' II 
 
 11 Q 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 § 
 
 11 
 
 l Gallon, 
 
 i Quart, 
 
 i Pint, - 
 
 4 
 i 
 
 o-5 
 0.025 
 0.0031 
 0.00005 
 
 8 
 2 
 1 
 
 0.05 
 0.0c 62 
 0.000 1 
 
 160 
 
 40 
 
 20 
 
 I 
 
 0.125 
 
 0.0021 
 
 1280 
 320 
 160 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 0.0167 
 
 76,800 
 
 19,000 
 
 9,600 
 
 480 
 
 60 
 
 1 
 
 i Fluid Oz., 
 
 i " Drachm 
 
 i Minim, 
 
 
 
 Imperial Fluid Measure. — Continued. 
 
 
 
 <v u 
 
 11 .a 
 
 . 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 en 
 u 
 
 <u 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 en 
 
 \o CD 
 
 3 a 
 
 II a 
 
 CD 
 
 
 
 1 Gallon, 
 
 1 Quart, 
 
 70,000 
 17,500 
 8,75o 
 437-5 
 
 54-7 
 0.91 
 
 277.276 
 
 69.319 
 
 34-659 
 
 1-733 
 
 0.217 
 
 0.0036 
 
 4-541 
 1. 135 
 0.567 
 0.0284 
 0.0035 
 0.00c 06 
 
 4.541 
 
 i,i35-2 
 
 576.6 
 
 283.8 
 
 35-5 
 
 o.59 
 
 1 Pint, 
 
 1 Fluid Oz., 
 
 1 " Drachm,. . 
 1 Minim, 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 239 
 
 LIST OF VARIOUS ARTICLES SHOWING PRICES USUALLY 
 CHARGED FOR ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Silver Plating Tableware. 
 
 Single. 
 
 Tea Spoons [six pieces] $0.75 
 
 Dessert Spoons 1.25 
 
 Table Spoons " 1 . 50 
 
 Table Forks 1 . 50 
 
 Dessert Forks " 1.75 
 
 Knives, steel handles 1.50 
 
 Knives, ivory or rubber handles. " 1.25 
 
 Butter Knives [single piece] .30 
 
 Sugar Shell " .30 
 
 Sugar Tongs " .35 
 
 Double. Triple. 
 
 $1.00 
 1.50 
 1-75 
 i-75 
 2 50 
 2.25 
 
 i-75 
 .40 
 .40 
 •50 
 
 $1-25 
 2.00 
 2.50 
 2.50 
 
 3-25 
 
 3.00 
 
 2.25 
 
 ■50 
 
 •50 
 
 .70 
 
 Silver Plating Watch Case. 
 
 Hunting Case each $0.75 to $2.00 
 
 Open Face " .50 to 1.00 
 
 Watch Charm " .75 to 2.00 
 
 Carriage Trimmings — Silver Plating. 
 
 Lamps per pair, $4.00 to $ 12.00 
 
 Axle Nuts per set, 
 
 Singletree Tips each, 
 
 Sulky Rails " 
 
 Crab Yoke " 
 
 Hearse Rails per foot, 
 
 Brackets each, 
 
 Door Handles " 
 
 Hub Bands " 
 
 .50 to 
 
 3.00 
 
 .50 to 
 
 .75 
 
 1. 00 to 
 
 1.50 
 
 1.50 to 
 
 2.50 
 
 .50 to 
 
 •75 
 
 .50 to 
 
 •75 
 
 .65 to 
 
 1.50 
 
 1. 00 to 
 
 2.00 
 
24O PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Miscellaneous Silver Plating, 
 
 Soda Fountains each, $3.00 
 
 Communion Sets " 
 
 Bell Pulls 
 
 Door Knobs per set 
 
 Candle Stands each 
 
 Faucets " 
 
 Ticket Punches . " 
 
 Dog Collars , 
 
 Casters ' ' 
 
 Goblets ... " 
 
 Cups " 
 
 Cake Baskets " 
 
 Card Receivers " 
 
 Celery Stands " 
 
 Fruit Stands " 
 
 Oyster or Soup Tureens " 
 
 Pickle Stands, double " 
 
 Butter Dishes " 
 
 Sugar Bowls " 
 
 Coffee Pots " 
 
 Tea Urns " 
 
 Call or Tea Bells 
 
 Door Plates ' ' 
 
 Cream Pitchers ... ' ' 
 
 Spoon Holders " 
 
 Napkin Rings " 
 
 10 Inch Trays " 
 
 12 " 
 
 15 " 
 
 18 " 
 
 21 " 
 
 24 " 
 
 40 " 
 
 45 " 
 
 Common Goblets. 
 
 Baptismal Bowls. . 
 
 $3.00 to 1 
 
 40.00 
 
 12.00 to 
 
 15.00 
 
 .50 to 
 
 1.25 
 
 1. 00 to 
 
 2.00 
 
 1.50 to 
 
 3.00 
 
 .50 to 
 
 1.50 
 
 .50 to 
 
 1. 00 
 
 2.00 to 
 
 4.00 
 
 2.00 to 
 
 4.00 
 
 .70 to 
 
 r.50 
 
 .50 to 
 
 1.25 
 
 1.50 to 
 
 4.00 
 
 1.20 to 
 
 4.00 
 
 1 25 to 
 
 2.25 
 
 .25 to 
 
 4. CO 
 
 4.00 to 
 
 6.00 
 
 1.25 to 
 
 2.20 
 
 .50 to 
 
 2.25 
 
 1.25 to 
 
 2.00 
 
 2.50 to 
 
 6.00 
 
 2.00 to 
 
 3-50 
 
 .50 to 
 
 1-25 
 
 •75 to 
 
 2.00 
 
 1. 00 to 
 
 2.50 
 
 1 25 to 
 
 2. CO 
 
 .30 to 
 
 •75 
 
 1. 00 to 
 
 2.0c 
 
 .50 to 
 
 2:50 
 
 2.00 to 
 
 3.00 
 
 3-5o to 
 
 4.00 
 
 2.50 to 
 
 4.00 
 
 4.00 to 
 
 6. co 
 
 6.00 to 
 
 10.00 
 
 10.00 to 
 
 15.00 
 
 T.OO tO 
 
 2.00 
 
 2.50 to 
 
 5.00 
 
PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 !4T 
 
 Mouth Pieces, small each 
 
 " " large " 
 
 Gilding Cornet Bells " 
 
 Sword Hilts, Scabbards and Belt Trimmings . . " 
 Bracelets per pair, 
 
 $0.25 to 
 
 $0.50 
 
 .50 to 
 
 1. 00 
 
 1.50 to 
 
 3.00 
 
 1.25 to 
 
 3.00 
 
 ,50 to 1. 00 
 
 Gold Plating Watch Cases. 
 
 Hunting Cases each, $1.00 to $5.00 
 
 Open Face Cases " .75 to 3.50 
 
 Watch Case Caps " .25 to .50 
 
 Miscellaneous Gold Plating. 
 
 Ear Rings per pair, $0.50 to 
 
 Sleeve Buttons " .50 to 
 
 Bracelets " 1 .00 to 
 
 Slop Bowls, inside each, 
 
 Cream Pitchers, " " 
 
 Spoon Holders, " " 
 
 Goblets, '' " .50 to 
 
 Cups, " " .25 to 
 
 Baptismal Bowls, " 
 
 Salt Cellars, " " .25 to 
 
 Tobacco Boxes, " " .35 to 
 
 Pins " . 50 to 
 
 Finger Rings " .50 to 
 
 Pistols - " 3.00 to 
 
 Opera Glasses " 1.50 to 
 
 Combs " . 50 to 
 
 Teaspoon Bowls doz., 2.00 to 
 
 Sugar Shells each, .25 to 
 
 Spectacles per pair, 1.00 to 
 
 Cane Heads each, 1.50 to 
 
 Crosses and Charms " . 50 to 
 
 Military Buttons - " .15 to 
 
 #1.00 
 1. 00 
 4.00 
 1.50 
 
 I. GO 
 T.OO 
 
 •75 
 
 •5o 
 
 3.00 
 
 •50 
 
 •50 
 
 1. 00 
 
 1.50 
 
 5.00 
 
 5.00 
 
 2.00 
 
 2.50 
 
 1.50 
 
 i-75 
 
 4-50 
 
 1-25 
 
 .50 
 
;o.25 to 
 
 $1-50 
 
 i.oo to 
 
 2.00 
 
 2.00 tO 
 
 4.00 
 
 .50 to 
 
 1.50 
 
 .25 to 
 
 •75 
 
 1.00 to 
 
 2.50 
 
 242 PRACTICAL ELECTRO-PLATING. 
 
 Uniform Badges each 
 
 Sword Hilts " 
 
 Swords, Hilts, and Blades " 
 
 Saber Trimmings " 
 
 Harness Buckles " 
 
 Bits 
 
 Nickel Plating. 
 
 Knives per set— six pieces, $0.60 to $1.50 
 
 Forks " " .60 to 1.50 
 
 Tea Spoons " " .50 to 1.60 
 
 Tablespoons " " .60 to 1.25 
 
 Carving Knives and Forks per set, 1.25 to 3.50 
 
 Soup Ladles each, 1.00 to 2.20 
 
 Nut Picks '. ... " -75 to 2.50 
 
 Napkin Rings " .25 to 1.00 
 
 Bell Pulls . " .25 to 1.00 
 
 Door Knobs per set, .50 to 1.75 
 
 Faucets each, .25 to 1.00 
 
 Ticket Punches " .25 to 1.00 
 
 DogCollars " .25 to .75 
 
 Bracelets per pair, .25 to .75 
 
 Pistols each, 1.00 to 2.50 
 
 Soda Fountains " 1.75 to 2 5-°o 
 
 Candle Holders " i-75 to 2.50 
 
 Mouth Pieces, small . . . • .50 to .75 
 
 Casters " 1.50 to 3.50 
 
 Coffee Pots...., " 1.00 to 4.00 
 
 Tea Urns " 1.00 to 3.00 
 
 Bits • " .25 to 2.50 
 
 Smoothing-irons .15 to .50 
 
 Stove Lifters .05 to .35 
 
 Bicycle Handles " .50 to 1.25 
 
 All Parts of Bicycles V 5-0° to 10.00 
 
 Coffee Heaters or Urns per gallon, 1.00 
 
INDEX. 
 
 A 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Acid copper solution 130 
 
 Acid pump 169 
 
 Amalgamating solution 201 
 
 Ammeters 44 
 
 Ammeter shunts 46 
 
 Ammeter shunt connections. 47 
 
 Ampere carrying capacity of 
 
 copper wire 50 
 
 Amperes required to plate one 
 
 square foot 50 
 
 Anodes 57 
 
 Anode hooks 60 
 
 Antidotes for poisons 233 
 
 B 
 
 Batteries 195 
 
 Battery information 1^5-201 
 
 Belt strapping attachment 74 
 
 Black nickel solution No. 1 1 24 
 
 Black nickel solution No. 2 125 
 
 Boracic acid 123 
 
 Boxwood sawdust 67 
 
 Branch line connections 37 
 
 Branch lines to tanks 37 
 
 Brass solution 132 
 
 Bristle wheel brushes 86 
 
 Bronze solution 133 
 
 Buffing 89 
 
 Buffing composition, XXX 91 
 
 Buffs, atlas 84. 85 
 
 Buffs, canton flannel 84 
 
 Buffs, muslin 83 
 
 Buff sticks 98 
 
 Bull-neck wheels 80 
 
 Burnishing .. 183 
 
 Bus bar connections 37 
 
 c 
 
 Capstone nickel salts 124 
 
 Centrifugal dryer 181 
 
 Chemical cleaning compound 159 
 
 Cleaning compound (New England) 64 
 
 Cleaning compound (Royal) 160 
 
 Coloring 90 
 
 Countershaft 25 
 
 Crocus composition 90 
 
 Cut leather. 104 
 
 Cyanide copper solution . , . 127 
 
 Cyanide of potassium 66 
 
 D 
 
 Dipping baskets 68 
 
 Dipping tank ventilation 13 
 
 Dip — acid for iron and steel 158 
 
 pip— bright for solid metals 156 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Dip— bright for plated articles 157 
 
 Dip — burning acid 157 
 
 Dip— cyanide 156 
 
 Dip— Kostico 158 
 
 Dip— lye XXX 159 
 
 Dip— ormolu 157 
 
 Dip — potash 159 
 
 Dip— soda 159 
 
 Dynamo 17 
 
 Dynamo, management of. 215 
 
 E 
 
 Electric steel finish 91 
 
 Electrical symbols and terms 6 
 
 Electro-chemical cleaner 161 
 
 Electro-plating 6, 173 
 
 Electropoion solution 202 
 
 Emery 88 
 
 Emery paste 89 
 
 Emery trough 95 
 
 Emery wheels 83 
 
 Endless polishing belts 74.96 
 
 Essex lime composition qi 
 
 Essex stripping salts 167 
 
 Felt wheels 81 
 
 F. F. composition 90 
 
 Floated silica 104 
 
 Galvanizing solution 147 
 
 Glue ' 88 
 
 Glue brushes 88 
 
 Glue, directions for use 99 
 
 Gold solution (24 K) 137 
 
 Gold solution (14 K) 140 
 
 Gold solution (green) 142 
 
 Gold solution (rose) 139 
 
 Green from gold solution 143 
 
 Grinders 70 
 
 H 
 
 Hydrometers. 
 
 60 
 
 J 
 
 Jars 54,55 
 
 K 
 
 Kostico. 
 
 62 
 
 Lacquers 187 
 
 Lacquer brushes , 194 
 
 Lacquer ovens ............ ; .. , 192 
 
 43 
 
244 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Lathes, foot power 7 6 
 
 Lathes, motor 7 6 
 
 Lathes, scratch brush 75 
 
 Leather covered wood wheels 79 
 
 Leather meal 103 
 
 Lining wood tanks 30 
 
 List of articles comprising a com- 
 plete plating plant 8 
 
 List of articles and prices charged 
 
 for electro-plating 239 
 
 Litmus paper 67 
 
 M 
 
 Main line 25 
 
 Main line connections - . 26 
 
 Motor generator sets 21 
 
 N 
 
 Nickel solutions 116 
 
 Nickel stripping solution 166 
 
 o 
 
 Old brass finish composition 92 
 
 Oxidizing solution H9 
 
 P 
 
 Pickles 163 
 
 Pickle for iron and steel 163 
 
 Pickle for brass and copper 165 
 
 Pickelene 165 
 
 Plating apparatus 175 
 
 Plating baskets 61 
 
 Plating room n 
 
 Plating room (floor plan) 11, 15 
 
 Plating solutions and chemicals 56, 1 13 
 
 Polishing compound XXXX 91 
 
 Polishing instructions • 93 
 
 Polishing plant 69 
 
 Polishing room 69 
 
 Polishing various metals 93 
 
 Polishing wheel cleaner 98 
 
 Potash brushes 65 
 
 Preparing work before plating. ... 107 
 Preparing non-metallic surfaces.. no 
 Pumice 67 
 
 R 
 
 Rheostats for field regulation.. 23, 215 
 
 Rheostats for tanks 38 
 
 Rod connections 35 
 
 Rods for tanks 34 
 
 Rouge 91 
 
 Rouge, black 92 
 
 Royal blue solution 150 
 
 Rubber respirator 1 70 
 
 Ruby copper solution \2<> 
 
 Rules for speed 229 
 
 s 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Sawdust brushes 67 
 
 Scouring and cleaning 51,108 
 
 Scouring brushes 65 
 
 Scratch brushes 86 
 
 Setting up polishing wheels with 
 
 emery 94 
 
 Setting up endless polishing belts 96 
 
 Sheepskin wheels S2 
 
 Silver solutions 134 
 
 vSilver quickening solution 168 
 
 Silver stripping solution 167 
 
 Single sulphate of nickel 123 
 
 Slinging wire 61 
 
 Solution skimmer 123 
 
 Speeds for emery and polishing 
 
 wheels (chart) 229, 230 
 
 Statuary bronze 150 
 
 Steam glue heaters 76 
 
 Steam jacketed boiling kettles 54 
 
 Steam sawdust box 55 
 
 Steel balls for polishing 104 
 
 Stop-off varnish 153 
 
 T 
 
 Tablesof weightsand measures 236-238 
 Table of weights (brass tubing) . . .236 
 Table of weights — copper wire and 
 
 rod 236 
 
 Tampico wheel brushes 86 
 
 Tank lining 30 
 
 Tanks for acid dips 52 
 
 Tanks for hot water 53 
 
 Tanks for potash 53 
 
 Tanks for scrubbing and cleaning 51 
 
 Tanks for solutions 27 
 
 Three systems of current distri- 
 bution 203 
 
 Three-wire system of current 
 
 distribution 209 
 
 Time of deposit of various 
 
 metals 116, 17S 
 
 Time dial 116 
 
 Tin solution 143 
 
 Tripoli composition qo 
 
 Tumbling barrels 100 
 
 Two-wire system of wiring ami 
 connecting (diagram) 16, 20 
 
 u 
 
 Union canvas wheels X) 
 
 V 
 
 Verd-antique chemical solution. ..151 
 
 Verd-antique lacquer 152 
 
 Voltmeters 40 
 
 w 
 
 •Walrine wheels 8i 
 
 Walrus wheels 80 
 
 Springfield Printing and Binding Company, Springfield, Mass 
 
THE HANSON & VAN WINKLE CO. 
 
 MANUFACTURERS OF 
 
 COMPOUND WOUND PLATING DYNAMOS, 
 FROM 50 TO 6000 AMPERES. 
 
 Rheostats, Voltmeters, Ammeters, Connections, 
 
 Anodes, Solutions, Chemicals, and 
 
 Everything for the 
 
 Plating Shop. 
 
 219 MARKET STREET, 
 NEWARK, N. J. 
 
 28 SO. CANAL STREET, 
 CHICAGO, ILL. 
 
THE HANSON & VAN WINKLE CO. 
 
 MANUFACTURERS OF 
 
 POLISHING LATHES AND MACHINERY, 
 POLISHING COMPOUNDS, 
 
 Muslin Buffs, Union Canvas Wheels, Bull-Neck 
 
 Wheels, Rouge, Crocus Composition, Tripoli 
 
 Composition, and Everything for 
 
 the Polishing Shop* 
 
 219 MARKET STREET, 28 SO. CANAL STREET, 
 
 NEWARK, N. J. CHICAGO, ILL.