^0" '?,, '«.x' ^C ** ' J^',, Si/. -i> .Q^ :'.^, .^V::^^> e?^ o .♦*.- ^i^"^ ^>, '' ^Oo. HOME FURNITURE MAKING For Amateur Wood Workers, Manual Training Schools and Students. : : : : : CONTAINING CLEAR DETAILED DRAWINGS AND PERSPEC- TIVE DRAWINGS OF ALL EXAMPLES PRESENTED. By G. A. RAETH CHICAGO Frederick J. Drake & Company PUBLISHERS A Copyright 1910 BY Frederick J. Drake CCI.A278506 TABLE OF CONTENTS Page late I — Four plate racks 21 .^late II — ^Four magazine stands 31 Plate III — Three tabourets 39 Plate IV — Sewing table, cellarette and card table.. 49 Plate V — Simple chair and corner chair 60 Plate VI— Plant stands 70 Plate VII — Hall trees and costumers 78 Plate VIII — Four magazine stands 92 Plate IX— Hall chests 101 Plate X— Three stools Ill Plate XI — Three umbrella stands 121 Plate XII— Two benches 130 Plate XIII — Music rack and cabinet 141 Plate XIV — Two mission chairs 150 Plate XV— Two couches 158 Plate XVI— Three smokers ' tables ..166 Plate XVII— Three screens 174 Plate XVIII— Two porch swings 180 Plate XIX— Two Morris chairs , . . .187 Plate XX— Two library tables 197 Plate XXI— Two beds 205 Plate XXII— Two davenports 213 Plate XXIII— Two bookcases 221 Plate XXIV— Two writing desks 228 Plate XXV— China closet and buffet 235 11 HOME FURNITURE MAKING Hints to Amateur Woodworkers How to "square" a board Article II How to use a two foot rule Article H How to use a saw Article II When not to place boards in a vise Article II How to obtain a golden oak finish Article III The use of a rip saw in place of a chisel . Article III When not to saw on the line Article III The parts of a plane Article III To avoid the splitting of corners Article III How some table tops are made Article IV What to do with plane when not in use . . . Article V The use of nails Article V When to sandpaper Article V How to use the plane Article VI When and how to use sandpaper Article VI When not to use the rasp Article VI How to bore holes Article VI What to use when sandpapering straight sur- faces Article VII How to use the chisel when sharp Article VII When not to depend upon sandpaper .... Article VII How to square a board (illustrated) . . . .Article IX To prevent splitting when chiseling Article X How to work on concave and convex cuts Article X How to drive nails Article X How to use the chisel on concave cuts. . . Article X The common planes used in bench work. .Article X 13 14 HINTS TO AMATEUR WOODWORKEBS 27. List of articles for general hammered metal work Article XI 28. The drawing of lines Article XI 29. The simple cuts used in woodworking . . .Article XI 30. Perspective drawing, freehand, mechanical Article XI 31. How to select and sharpen a knife Article XII 32. Gluing Article XIII 33. The hammer, its parts and use Article XIV 34. Upholstering and leather seats Articles V, X, XIV and XV 35. Fifty-eight common joints. .. Articles XV and XVI 36. Ledge, rebate or rabbet joint (illustrated) Article XVII 37. Dado, gained or grooved joint (illustrated) Article XVn 58. Cross lap joint (illustrated) Article XVEII 39. Middle lap joint (illustrated) Article XVIII 40. Through mortise and tenon joint (illus- trated) Article XIX 41. Blind mortise and tenon joint illustrated) Article XIX 43. Common mortise and tenon joint (illustrated) Article XX 43. End, open, box or slip mortise and joint (il- lustrated) Article XX 44. Plain miter joint (illustrated) Article XXI 45. Plain or rubbed joint (illustrated) Article XXI 46. How to apply a finish to oak Article XXI 47. Spline joint (illustrated) Article XXII 48. Pinned mortise and tenon joint (illustrated) Article XXn 49. Pointers on various kinds of wood Article XXII 50. How trees are classified Article XXIII HOME FURNITURE MAKING 15 51. Dovetail dado joint (illustrated) Article XXIII 52. Housed mortise and tenon joint (illustrated) Article XXHI 53. Keyed mortise and tenon joint (illustrated) Article XXIV 54. Plain butt joint (illustrated) Article XXIV 55. The grain of wood described Article XXIV 56. Beveled splice (illustrated) Article XXV 57. Simple splice (illustrated) Article XXV 58. The difference between joints and splices . . . , Article XXV PREFACE The purpose of this book is manifold. To the manual training instructor the book will be of intrinsic value as a text in his class work; to the manual training student, it will readily suit its purpose in cabinet mak- ing or in creating new designs of furniture and to the manual training enthusiast of the home, this work will prove itself to be a valuable addition to other books of this nature. Simple household furniture has been chosen as the general theme and all the spe- cific drawings and articles conform with the present demand for lines of simplicity and impressiveness, securing utility and com- fort as well as artistic effects. The work- ing drawings are characteristic of the kind of furniture which the public has indorsed • 17 18 PREFACE under the names of mission, puritan, arts and crafts and others. No furniture is presented which it will not be possible for any one familiar with the ordinary tools of carpentry to make. The same general form of construction is used in all, though there is a variety of forms in which the finished product ap- pears. As we all know, hand made furniture is one of the most desirable features of the home at the present time. Its artistic value makes it impossible for those of limited means, however, if it must be purchased from professional craftsmen. On the other hand, the simplicity of its lines, the chief characteristic of its beauty, makes it possi- ble for the handy amateur to reproduce the most costly pieces and it is for this amateur, principally, that this book on Home Furni- ture Making has been perfected. The les- sons for each group of drawings proceed by easy stages also, so that the amateur who PREFACE 19 has succeeded with one or two will find it a simple matter to construct the more pre- tentious articles. The Author Home Furniture Making PLATE RACKS By G. A. Raeth AETICLE I The plate racks shown on this page are of simple construction. Their parts can be fastened by means of blued round head screws, finishing nails, dowels or pegs as shown in drawing No. 2. For the plate rack No. 1, the following pieces will be needed: Two sides— %x5%xl2y2 inches. One shelf- %x5%x22y2 inches. Two strips— y2x2%x23y2 inches. One dowel— %-inch round, 23 inches long. These pieces can be ordered mill planed 21 22 HOME FURNITUKE MAKING on two surfaces to tlie thickness specified above and also sandpapered. Quarter sawed white oak, plain oak or ash make a satisfactory appearance and are compara- tively easy to obtain. Pine may also be used, but it is not as good as the above men- tioned woods as it is more liable to warp than the others. The quarter sawed oak ex- cels them all. Begin work on the sides first. 1. Plane a joint or working edge on each. 2. From the planed joint edge draw a line on each board % inch from one end with a try square and then plane down to line. 3. From the planed end measure the length, twelve inches, on each board and draw a line through this point with the try square from the joint edge. Plane to line. If too much remains to be planed, saw part of it away. Do not saw on the line but near it. If the worker saws on the line, the board PLATE RACKS 23 will be reduced to less than the required length, twelve inches. 4. From the joint edge measure the width, 4% inches, and with a straight edge or large try square draw a line. Plane to line. If this line is followed hereafter in squar- ing a board, our worker will invariably ob- tain satisfactory results. The two sides have now been reduced to their correct lengths and widths. Always square up all pieces before attempting to lay out slants, angles or curves. Lay off and plane down slants on side pieces. Do not forget the openings for the back strips, % inch by 1% inches. The shelf may be made next. Reduce to length and width in the same manner as that of the side pieces, 22 inches by 4% inches. The width of the shelf and sides coincide. Let the back strips follow next; l%x23% inches. Before assembling the parts, locate the 24 HOME FUKNITURE MAKING center of holes for dowel. Use a i4-incK ] bit and bore a bole about 5-16 of an inch; ] deep on the inner side of both side pieces. Fasten the side pieces to shelf with round head blued screws, l^A inches in length. ev(\?l.«^\\ Plate No. 1 Assemble back strips to side pieces witK flat head bright screws, 1 inch in length. In plate rack No. 2, the shelf is fastened PLATE RACKS 25 r fe ¥ ■+iV 'i cga 26 HOME FUENITURE MAKING to the sides by means of pegs or keys. Thei rack requires the following pieces: Two sides— %x6%xl6% inches. One shelf— %x5%x27 inches. One back— %x3%x23% inches. Two pegs— %x%x7 inches. i One dowel— % inch round by 23% inches. iWhen ordering lumber at the mill, allow ,% inch for waste in length and width. Eeduce the sides to 16 inches long by 6 inches wide. Lay out 8 inches from the top, the projection opening for the shelf: %x2 inches. First bore holes with a 10-16 bit before chiseling. ^i Draw the two large curves on the twoj front comers with a 3-inch radius. Then draw the smaller one-inch curves. The shelf is 26% inches in length and 5 inches in width when squared up. Lay out the ends as they are to project through the sides. The inside measurement of the length of the shelf and which touches against the inner side of both sides is 22 PLATE BACKS > 27 iches. The part of the shelf that passes irough the sides on both ends is 2%x2 iches. The opening for the pegs should be made xt. Bore a hole before chiseling. Do not ^rget the taper. Use a %-inch bit. Make the back board 22%x3 inches. Let le upper edge of the back be placed 1% ches from the top of the sides. Next make le grooves on the inner side of both side ieces for the ends of the back % inch |ide, % inch deep and 3 inches long. The holes for the %-inch dowel must also i bored 2 inches from the front edge, in le same manner as explained in No. 1. i The pegs are %x% inch at the top, ^x% inch at the bottom and 3 inches in ngth. Always sandpaper and clean all ^e parts before assembling. The back can 3 fastened with glue, finishing nails or fads. Plate rack No. 3 is pleasing in form. Be- ides being adaptable for the shelving of 28 HOME FURNITURE MAKING plates, its lower portion is a practical pi( ture frame. Instead of a %-incli strip o tlie top shelf, three narrow grooves ar gei erally made for supporting plates. f Plate rack No. 3 requires the followin pieces : , One shelf- %x8y2x26y2 inches. i Two rails— %x3%xl5 inches. Two rails— %x2%x20% inches. Two brackets— %x6%x8% inches. One strip— %x%x26% inches. Make the shelf 26x8 inches. Make the two side rails %x3xl4% inchei The other rails are %x2%x20 inches. The ends are lapped. The joints use are end-lap. An end-lap joint is made i the same way as a cross-lap joint (meei ing at the center) except that the joint i at the end of both pieces. On the inner side and on the back groove is made, % inch wide and abor 1/4 inch deep, to allow a plate of glass an PLATE RACKS 29 picture to be held in place. A mirror uld be used in place of a picture. The brackets when squared up are 6x8 ches. A 7-inch radius gives the curve, le brackets are fastened from the rear ith flat head bright screws. The top is stened in a like manner. Plate rack No. 4 is supplied with six )oks for cups. The top shelf can also be ;ed as a shelf for a clock or vase, etc., hen the strip is removed. The sketch on ie left shows how a piece in keeping with le rest of the rack can be placed on either id to guard against the rolling off of plates, bracket can be made to support the shelf. The stock required for plate rack No. 4 as follows: One shelf— %x4y2x30y2 inches. One board— %xllx26% inches. One strip— %x%x30y2 inches. The bracket can be made 3% inches wide nd 4 inches long by % inch thick. I The worker must not lose sight of the 30 HOME FURNITUKE MAKING fact that in order to do good work his too should be kept in excellent condition at in all cutting tools it is absolutely imperil tive that they be kept with a keen edg Use the try square continually. MAGAZINE STANDS AETICLE II In making magazine stand No. 1, begin on the sides first, square to correct length and width, as explained in article I. First plane a joint edge; second, plane one end; third, plane to length; fourth, plane to width. Do not remove the joint edges before the places for the shelves have been measured off and located. If the shelves are to be fastened with screws, a hole should be bored for each screw on the side pieces about 3-16 inch D, or % inch D, according to the size of the screw. If Sat head screws are used, countersink the holes to allow the head of the screw to come down even with the sur- face of the side boards. Finishing nails or brads should be set and covered with putty and stained to match the wood. Fancy 31 32 HOME FURNITURE MAKING MAGAZINE STANDS 33 headed nails or buttons are often used to cover the heads of finishing nails. Scrape, sandpaper and clean thoroughly all wood- NO. 2 TT r-s /<9" --{ "f-* m r A/OJ w- ET" 4 mz'f frjt -^22 /yo-4 — i— /a"- i. i 74 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 12. Make the upper and lower shelves: %xl6xl6 inches. 13. Adjust the comers of shelves to fit at legs and rails. See drawing and sketch. 14. Fasten shelves in place by means of dowel pins or round blued or brass screws. Stand No. 1 will also serve well as a ta- bouret. The only difficulty in constructing plant stand No. 2 will be met in making the bev- eled ends. In order to obtain a definite angle on each, make a full size drawing and place the bevel square on the same. The set angle is then transferred to the wood- work. The following pieces are required for plant stand No. 2: Four legs— %x4V2x32% inches. One top— %xl3xl3 inches. One shelf— 3/4x12x12 inches. Two braces— %x4x6% inches. Proceed as follows in making the above stand No. 2: PLANT STANDS 75 1. Square up the four legs: %x4x32 inches. 2. Draw a center line on each. 3. Bevel the ends as explained above from drawing. 4. Make the designs on joint edges. (For the inch holes use a 16-16 bit. Bore on one side until the spur of the bit comes through. Turn the board about and finish boring from the inner side, or bore on other side) . 5. Square the top: %xl2y2xl2% inches. 6. Square up the braces: %x3%x6 inches. 7. Make the beveled ends. 8. Make cross lap joints on braces. 9. Figure out width and length of shelf. Both length and width should be the same. Locate place for shelf. 10. Assemble all parts with screws. Clean all parts thoroughly before fastening. Stand No. 2 can be used equally as well as a pedestal. 76 HOME FURNITUKE MAKING An article simple in construction is shown in fignre 3. There is no jointing to do and with the exception of the shelf, all the parts require straight planing only. A third shelf can be placed between the top and lower, if thought desirable. Plant stand No. 3 requires the following pieces: Eight legs— %x3x32y2 inches. Two shelves— %xl4%xl4% inches. When squared up the legs are %x2%x32 inches; the shelves %xl4xl4 inches. Do not neglect to make the one inch points on the legs and the compass curves on the lower shelf of 9% radius. The upper shelf is placed two inches from the top of the legs and the lower shelf is fastened 10 inches from the bottom ends of the legs. Five Hints to Amateurs 1. Hold the plane firm on the work and slide it over the whole length with long and PLANT STANDS 77 even strokes. Stand firm on both feet, with the left foot extended ahead of the right. 2. Sandpaper should not be used across the grain, especially immediately before finishing. 3. Whenever the work is to have a fin- ished edge or end, another tool should be used instead of a file or rasp. 4. (a) When boring the work should be placed in the vise and not upon the floor. 4. (b) Bore holes until the spur of the bit shows; withdraw the bit and bore the rest from the other side; or turn the work about and bore from the inside. 5. When working do not sit down. ** Prodding is a weariness to prodder and prodee. The man of initiative needs no prod.'' HALL TREES OR COSTUMERS AETICLE VII How often has mamma told Johnny not to throw his coat and cap upon the chair when he enters the house ? Now, mothers who are troubled in this way should induce the fond fathers to construct one of the hall trees as shown in plate 7. These are not only good for the boys to hang their wraps on but also for the rest of the family. The first hall tree requires the following pieces : One center pole— l%xl%x66>4 inches. Two cross pieces— 2%x2%xl5>4 inches. Four brackets— IxGxlOK inches. Note: If a measurement for a board can be had at the mill as the drawing may call for, the mill order will specify the same ac- cordingly; i. e., the pole can be received at the mill planed on four sides, one and one- half inches square. If not mill planed, al- 78 HALL TREES OR COSTUMERS 79 ways allow about one-half inch on length and thickness for waste. 1. The pole when finished is one and one- half inches square, by sixty-six inches in length. 2. The cross lap pieces, that serve as rests, when finished are two inches thick, two inches wide and fifteen inches in length. 3. Make a cross lap joint at their cen- ters : two inches wide and one inch deep. 4. Make the one inch chamfers on the ends of cross pieces. 5. The fonr brackets when finished are 1 inch thick, 5% inches wide and 10 inches in length. First, square up the boards be- fore attempting the curves. 6. Locate and bore the holes for the dowels on pole and brackets. 7. The brackets can also be fastened to the rests by means of dowels. 8. A dowel pin can be placed in the lower end of the pole and slipped through a 80 HOME FURNITURE MAKING hole, the size of the diameter of dowel, in the center of both cross pieces. For costumer No. 2 order the following pieces from the mill: Two vertical poles— Ix2%x66% inches. One top rail— %x3y2xl7 inches. One second rail— %x2xl7 inches. One third rail— %x2xl7 inches. One board— Ix8y2xl7 inches. Four brackets, each— 1x8x10% inches. Two rests (a)— 2x2%xl8y2 inches. Three slats— %x3y2x43 inches. The brackets in design are like those shown in figure No. 1. 1. Make the long vertical poles 1x2x66 inches. 2. Make the top slants on upper ends. 3. Square up the top rail : % in. thick x 3 inches wide, 16% inches long over all. 4. On the ends make the tenons: % inches or longer, % inches thick and about two inches wide. 5. Square up the second rail: % inch HALL TREES OR COSTUMERS 81 thick, 1% inches wide, and 16% inches long over all. 6. On the ends make the tenons % inch or longer, % inch thick and about % inch wide. 7. Square up the third rail: % inch thick, 1% inches wide, and 16% inches over all in length. 8. Make the tenons on the ends : % inch long, % inch thick and about % inch wide. 9. Make the mortises on the inside of the poles to receive the tenons on the three rails respectively. 10. Square up the three slats: % inch thick, 3 inches wide, and 42% inches long over all. 11. Make tenons on both ends: % inch long, % inch thick, and about two inches wide. 12. Remove the joint edges in accord- ance with the design on the slats. 13. Make the mortises on the second 82 HOME FURNITURE MAKING and third rails to receive the tenons on th< three slats respectively. € ^S^^:^^' £ ■ .dJ ^z^z^^^.St^- ^ "^^ 14. Glue and fasten second and third rails onto slats. 15. Square np the two side pieces or HALL TKEES OR COSTUMERS 83 1?tt */^ -K -.^'- iif r5-^f=H l] J^. •y^^: tl f^ -^'^h: S ^4v fi 84 HOME FURNITURE MAKING rests: 2 inclies thick, 2 inclies wide, 18 inches long. 16. Make a %-inch groove on the under side of each. 17. Square np lower board: 1 inch thick, 8 inches wide by 16% inches long over all. 18. Make the tenons on board: % inch long, % inch thick, and about 5 or 6 inches wide. 19. Make mortises on lower side pieces to admit the tenons of lower board. 20. Glue and fasten the two side pieces onto lower board. 21. All rails, together with the slats, can now be fastened onto the poles. 22. Make the bracket: 1 inch thick, 7^/2 inches wide, and 10 inches long. 23. When the brackets have been com- pleted, fasten same onto the poles and rests as explained in connection with hall tree No. 1. Costumer No. 3 has a mirror which can be turned to any position desired. At the HALL TEEES OR COSTUMERS 85 lower end there is a box with a lid which serves as a seat. Within the box may be . placed rubbers, overshoes and the like. A leather cushion may be placed upon the seat to make it more comfortable. Hall tree No. 3 requires the following pieces. Two long poles— l%xl%x67i/2 inches. Two front vertical posts— l%xl%x23 inches. One top rail— %x3x20 inches. One second rail— %x4x20 inches. One third rail— %x4x20 inches. One fourth rail— %x4y2x20 inches. One front upper rail for framework seat — %x4x20 inches. One front lower rail— %x4x20 inches. One back upper rail— %x4x20 inches. One back lower rail— %x4x20 inches. One vertical front rail (left side)— %x 4x9 inches. One vertical front rail (right side)— % x4x9 inches. 86 HOME FURNITURE MAKING One front panel— %x9xl3 inches. One back panel— %x9x20 inches. Two side upper rails— %x4xl8 inches. Two side lower rails— %x4xl8 inches. Four vertical side rails (right and lefl sides)- %x4x9 inches. Two side panels (right and left sides) %x9xll inches. One bottom— %xl8x20 inches. One seat— %x20 (wide)x20 inches long. Make the width from two boards. Two arms— %x3%x21 inches. Two cleats— %x%xl8 inches. Two horizontal rails (for frame of mir- ror)— %xl%xl7% inches. Two vertical rails (for mirror)— %xl% xl3% inches. Follow carefully each step in construct- ing hall tree No. 3. 1. Square up long poles: l%xl%x67 inches. 2. Make bevel on upper end. 3. Square up upper rail first: %x2%x HALL TREES OR COSTUMERS S7 19% inches over all. Make tenons % inch long and % inch thick on all rails, % inch in thickness. 4. Square up second rail: %x3%xl9% inches over all. 5. Square up third rail: %x3%xl9% inches over all. 6. Square up fourth rail: %x4xl9% inches over all. 7. Square up upper back rail (below seat) : %x3%xl9% inches over all. 8. Square up lower back rail: %x3%x 19% inches over all. 9. Make mortises on long vertical poles (inside) to admit all the above rails. 10. Square up front vertical posts: 1^/2 xl%x22% inches over all. 11. Square up upper front horizontal rail (below seat) : %x3%xl9% inches over all. 12. Square up lower front horizontal rail: %x3V2xl9% inches over all. Make tenons on rails. I 88 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 13. Make mortises on front posts for up- per and lower front rails. 14. Square up two front vertical rails: %x3%x8% inches over all. Make tenons. 15. Make mortises on upper and lower front horizontal rails for the above two vertical rails. 16. Glue and clamp the above rails (four) together. 17. Make inside groove for front panel. 18. Square up front panel: I4x8%xl2% inches and fasten in place. 19. Square up the two upper side rails: %x3%xl7% inches over all. 20. Square up the two lower side rails: %x3%xl7% inches over all. 21. Make tenons on the above rails and mortises for same on long poles and from vertical posts. 22. Square up the four side vertical ] rails: %x3%x8% inches over all. 23. Make all tenons on the above ver HALL TREES OR COSTUMEES 89 tical rails and mortises for same on upper and lower side rails. 24. Make the grooves for the panels. 25. Square up the panel boards: i/4x 8%xl0% inches. 26. Glue all rails and clamp in place until dry. 27. Square up the seat: %xl9%xl9 inches. 28. Square up two cleats: %x%xl7% inches, to fit immediately below the seat and on the inside of the two upper side rails. 29. Square up the two arms, each %x 3x21% inches. The arms are three inches wide at the front end and two inches wide at the rear end. 30. Make small squares on arms to fit over front posts. Make rear opening on arms to fit on long poles. See sketch **b.'' 31. Square up upper and lower rails for frame of mirror: %xlxl7% inches over all. Make tenons. 90 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 32. Square up the vertical rails: %xlx 13 inches. Make mortises. 33. Make grooves for mirror and glue frame together. 34. Sandpaper and clean all parts be- fore finishing. 35. Screw mirror in place. Perspective No. 3 shows the panel pieces placed inside. In almost every case, the joints used in fastening the various parts of the three hall trees are some variation of the mor- tise and tenon joint. The tenons used on the horizontal rails of the frame for the mirror, are the common or stub mortise and tenon and are made by cutting only two sides of tenon beam. The horizontal side rails A and B below seat in figure No. 3 are made with tenons like those on an end lap joint. The end lap fits into the posts. See sketches '*a*' and Note how the rear of the arm pieces are HAIiL TEEES OK COSTUMERS 91 cut to fit the long poles in detail drawing The panels fit within a groove. The cleats are screwed in place. Five Hints to Amateurs 1. In sandpapering straight surfaces, a block of wood should be used upon the sand- paper. 2. In striking a chisel a mallet should be used. If the chisel is kept keen, there will be no necessity for the use of a mallet for small cuts. 3. Give your work a final treatment from a critical standpoint before sandpa- pering or assembling. 4. Do not depend upon sandpaper doing the work. Use it for cleaning only and smoothing surfaces after all tool processes have been completed. 5. Do not trace any work. A bad man quarrels with his tools. MAGAZINE STANDS ABTICLE VIII As magazine stands are always received with much interest, the author takes pleas- ure in introducing four more similar draw- ings into the course. Simplicity marks the construction of the cabinets as shown on plate 8. The joints used for stands No. 1 and No. 2, are the plain butt joints. In a plain butt joint, the pieces join endwise or edgewise with- out overlapping. Such an application of joints is commonly noticeable on ordinary boxes or cases, as seen at the grocery or dry goods stores. Order the following pieces at the mill for No. 1: Two sides— %xlO%x34V2 inches. Four shelves— %xl0%xl6% inches. Four strips— %x2%xl8i/4 inches. 1. Make the sides first. When planed 92 MAGAZINE STANDS 93 and squared up, they are yg inch thick, 9% inches wide and 34 inches long. 2. Locate and draw lines across the faces for the shelves. 3. On above lines mark off places for screws. Bore holes on said pieces with a gimlet 3-16 or % hit. The size of the holes depends upon the thickness of the screws used. 4. On side pieces make upper and lower designs as shown in drawing. 5. Plane and square up the shelves % inch thick, 9% inches wide and 16 inches long. 6. Make the four strips % inch thick, 1% inches wide and 17% inches long. 7. Screw shelves in place with round beaded blued screws. 8. Nail strips in place on the rear. Magazine stand No. 2 is similar in con- struction to No. 1 with the exception of the shelves, which are 19 inches in lensfth 94 HOME FUENITURE MAKING and the solid back in place of tke four strips. Magazine stand No. 3 requires the follow- ing pieces: Six pieces— %x2%x32% inches. Four shelves— %x8%x21% inches. Note carefully how to construct the ver- tical pieces. Instead of ordering six pieces for the sides as given above, two boards can be purchased, % inch thick, 32% inches long, 9% inches wide and planed up in the following manner: 1. Plane joint or working edge; 2. Plane one end square with the joint edge; 3. Plane board to length (32 inches) and square to joint edge; 4. From joint edge mark off 2 inches (the width of one side piece) and draw line with a ** straight edge;'^ 5. From latter mark off % inch and draw line (the % inch space just made is for sawing) ; 6. From the second line thus far constructed, mark off 2 inches for the second side piece and draw line; 7. MAGAZINE STANDS 95 Draw another i4-inch space for sawing; 8. Mark off the last strip and draw line; 9. Plane all side pieces down to line. If the above method is followed, it is a simple matter to turn out each strip of the same length. The shelves when finished are to be % inch thick, 8 inches wide and 20% inches long. Note how the side strips are fitted onto the shelves. For each strip use two round headed blued screws on every shelf. The spacing of the shelves might be reversed to suit the fancy of the worker. A stand that differs considerably in de- sign and makeup, is the one shown in draw- ing No. 4. The joints used on the rails are mortise and tenon. Order the following pieces for the last cabinet : Four corner posts— lV8xl%x40i/2 inches. One top-%xl8x26% inches. 96 HOME FURNITURE MAKING MAGAZINE STANDS 97 Two upper front rails— %x2%x21% inches. _ ■Oi^ T. p. _4^ ^i -^0/^ ^/^ o ^# [ s 1 "P ^E.t L T ^ -♦A- -^ Two lower front rails— %x2i/4x21%' inches. 98 HOME FURNITURE MAKING Two upper side rails— %x2%xl4 inches. Two lower side rails— %x2%xl4 inches. Two bottom side rails— %x2xl4 inches. Three shelves— %xl3%x21 inches. Two side panels— %xl4x30 inches. The width and length of the shelves de- pend upon the methods used in fastening. The total width of the panel pieces must be made from two pieces. The top shelf can be fastened by means of cleats or angles. The top when planed to size is %xl7%x26% inches. The corner posts are 1% inches square by 40 inches long. The upper front rails are alike on both sides, %x2x21 inches long. The length of all rails depends upon the length of the tenons used. The measure- ment between the tenons for the above rails is 20 inches. The upper side rails are %x2xl4 inches. The measurement for the length between the tenons is 13 inches. The lower side rails are %xl%xl4 inches. MAGAZINE STANDS 99 The length between the tenons is 13 inches. The bottom rails are %xl%xl4 inches. The length between the tenons is 13 inches. The panel pieces are %xl33/4x29i/2 inches. Do not omit the grooves (% inch deep) on the inner sides of the comer posts and rails to admit the panel pieces. A matched or tongue and groove joint may be used for the above, especially onto the rails. Such a joint is made by making a projection or * ^tongue'' in the center of the joint or other edge of one board and a corresponding groove in the center of the other, so that they will match together. For example, see flooring or some plain boxes. Sketches a and a* show a simpler man- ner of fastening the panel onto the comer verticals. Sketches b and c show How the shelves can be held in place by means of blocks or 100 HOME FUKNITUEE MAKING cleats. Sketch b shows a square cleat and c one triangular in shape. Detail sketches d and d^ show another method of holding a shelf in place. The same is fitted into a notch made on the cor- ner posts. The end of the shelf rests snug- ly against the panel. The shelves can also be fastened with screws as shown on the foregoing three stands. Magazine stands are sometimes recog- nized by the public by the names of maga- zine cabinets, book shelves or cases and library book shelves. *^The hand holds the place of honor at the side of the power of speech in raising man above the beasts!'' HALL CHESTS ARTICLE IX Specimens of furniture that will no doubt be warmly welcomed, are the hall chests shown on this page. Their practical value for storing away odds and ends excels that of any other article to be found in furni- ture. To many, the first chest is known as a shirt waist box or skirt box and serves a purpose as its name signifies. Its length assures a comfortable storing place for skirts, petticoats, wearing apparel and remnants of dress goods and the like. In hall chest No. 2, may be placed mack- intoshes, rubbers, overshoes and the like. Chest No. 1 may appropriately be used as a window seat. The seat of both chests, if upholstered with leather, will improve the appearance and give comfort to each piece. 101 102 HOME FURNITUKE MAKING HALL CHESTS 103 P' '-• OP'- r^-: 3^ i ■5 v •i;^, ►o «G ni 1 ^ 1 ^* V ^t^bCi 104 HOME FUKNITUEE MAKING Order the following pieces of lumber for chest No. 1: Two horizontal front rails (upper and lower)— %x3x50 inches. Two horizontal back rails (upper and lower)— %x3x50 inches. Two front vertical rails— %x3xl2 inches. Two back vertical rails— %x3xl2 inches. One front vertical rail— %x3%xl2 inches. One back vertical rail— %x3%xl2 inches. Two front panels— %xl2x21 inches. Two back panels— %xl2x21 inches. Four comer posts— l%xl%xl6% inches. One bottom— %xl5%x49 inches. Four end horizontal rails (two on each end)— %x3xl5% inches. Four end vertical rails (two on each end) — %x3%xl2 inches. Two end panels (one on each end)— %x 10x12 inches. Two long rails for top— %x4%x53V2 inches. HALL CHESTS 105 Five short rails for top~%x4%xl2 inches. Four panels for top— %x9xl2 inches. Use mortise and tenon joints. Sketch ^*b'' shows a vertical cross sec- tion at ''Si,'' ''X'' and ^^y'' are the rails, ''r'' and *^s'^ in the end view. The cross section shows how the panels are fitted into the rails. The total length and width of the panel pieces and the total length of the rails de- pend upon the size of the tenons used. Nevertheless, be careful to obtain the cor- rect measurements between them. With the exception of the corner posts, all pieces should be made of cedar. The measurements for every piece, omitting the tenons, are as follows, when completed: Four horizontal rails (front and rear) — %x2%x48 inches. Four vertical rails (front and rear) — %x2i/2xl0 inches. 106 HOME FURNITURE MAKING Two vertical rails (front and rear) — %x3xl0 inches. Four panels (front and rear)— %xl0x20 inches. Four comer posts— l%xl%xl6 inches. Bottom— %xl4V2x48 inches. Four end horizontal rails (two on each end)— %x2%xl4% inches. Four end vertical rails (two on each end) — %x3xl0 inches. Two end panels (one on each end)— %x 8%xl0 inches. Two long rails for top— %x4x53 inches. Five short rails for top— %x4xll inches. Four panels for top— %x8xll inches. Order the following pieces for hall chest No. 2: Two front verticals— lx3V2x20i/4 inches. Two rear verticals— lx3%x40V2 inches. Two pieces (front and rear for frame- work of hox)— %x8%x35 inches. Two lower horizontal side rails— lx2%x 13% inches. HALL CHESTS 107 One bottom— % or thinner xl5%x32i/^ inches. Two side pieces— lxl2l^xl2% inches. Two brackets— Ix4%x6% inches. One upper back rail— %x3%x33%' inches. One lower back rail— %x4%x33% inches. Two slats— % (or thinner) x3%xl8% inches. Three slats— % (or thinner) x4y2xl8% inches. The seat : Two horizontal pieces doweled and glued together— %xl8x29% inches. Two end pieces, grooved and glued onto ends of horizontal pieces of seat— %x2%x 18 inches. The following are the dimensions for all pieces when planed and squared up to their correct measurements. Two front verticals— 1x3x19% inches. Note.— The small dimension as a rule de- notes the thickness, the next in size the 108 HOME FUENITUEE MAKING width, and the last the length. Order all lumber dressed on both sides. Two rear verticals— 1x3x40 inches. Two pieces for framework of box— %x8 x32 inches inside. Add 1% inch for tenons on both ends. Two lower side rails— lxl%xl2 inches. Add 1% inches for tenons on both ends of rail. One bottom— %xl5%x32 inches. Two side pieces— lxll%xl2 inches. Two brackets— 1x4x6 inches. Square up brackets, 4x6 inches, before preceding with 5-inch curve. One upper back rail— %x3x32 inches, in- side. Add 1% inches for tenons on both ends. One lower back rail— %x3%x32 inches, inside. Add 1% inches for tenons. Two slats— % (or thinner) x3xl7 inches, inside. Add 1% inches for tenons. Three slats— % (or thinner) x4xl7 inch- es, inside. Add 1% inches for tenons. HALL CHESTS 109 The whole thickness, width and length of seat when completed, are %xl7%x32 inches. Detail sketch '*s" shows how the 2-inch end pieces are fitted onto the horizontal pieces of the seat. Do not omit the dowels or pins. A matched or tongue and groove joint can be used to support the bottom. The horizontal boards for the front and rear of the seat are alike and for its fasten- ing, a pinned mortise and tenon joint is used. It is one in which a pin is driven through holes bored through the mortised beam and through the tenon to keep them from drawing apart. Examine your win- dow sash and see if an example of such can not be found. **Lest we forget" the author has 3hown on this page by means of sketches, a sat- isfactory method used by many cabinet makers in *' squaring up" a board to its dimensions. An outline for *' squaring up" a board 110 HOME FURNITUEE MAKING ' i appeared in article II, under ''Hints to " Amateur Workers.'' '^Progress means action and action means life/' THREE STOOLS ARTICLE X An article that can readily find a place in almost any room and serve comfortably as a chair, is a stool. The stools shown in the working drawings are minus a back, cushioned and require but little space wherever placed. Stool No. 2 is serviceable as a foot-rest. The cushions in stools Nos. 1 and 3 are made after all parts have been assembled, glued and allowed to dry. The cushion for stool No. 1 is fitted snugly within the upper rails and one inch from the top, resting upon cleats %-iiich square, as shown in the drawing. The top leather of stool No. 3 is stretched tightly over the rails and is held in place by means of bronze tacks. Purchase a hard leather for the above cush- ioned seats. Ill 112 HOME FUBNITUEE MAKING Order the following pieces of lumber for stool No. 1: Four comer posts— l%xl%xl5% inches. Two upper side rails— Ix4%xl8% inches. Two upper end rails— lx4%xl4V2 inches. Two lower end rails— 1x2x14% inches. Two lower side rails— Ix2%x21 inches. Four wooden pins— % or % inch in di- ameter by 2 inches long. Two cleats— %x%xl8 inches. Two cleats— %x%xl2 inches. 1. Plane up the corner posts first: l%x IVo inches ( square )xl5 inches. Do not omit 14-inch chamfers on upper ends. 2. Square up the upper side rails: Ix 4x18% inches. The measurement between the tenons is 17 inches. 3. Make mortises on comer posts cor- responding to the above tenons on upper rails. 4. Square up the two upper end rails: THREE STOOLS 113 1x4x14% inches over all. The measure- ment between the tenons is 13 inches. 5. Make mortises on corner posts ta admit tenons of the two upper end rails. 6. Square up the two lower end rails: 1x11/2x14% inches over all. The measure- ment between the tenons is 13 inches. 7. Make the mortises on comer posts to admit the tenons of the above rails. 8. Square up the two lower side rails: 1x2x20% inches over all. 9. Make mortises on comer posts for tenons on above rails. The joints are the open mortise and tenon with pins. The tenon passes through the mortise. 10. Scrape, clean and glue, assemble and clamp all parts in place until dry. 11. Make four cleats and screw in place. 12. Make cushion and fit in place upon cleats. Stool No. 2 requires the following pieces : One top— %x9%xl5% inches. Two legs— %x9x9 inches. 114 HOME FUENITUKE MAKING THREE STOOLS 115 Two rails— %x3%xl4y2 inclies. Four dowel pins— % or % inch in diam- eter by 21/2 inclies each. 116 'HOME FUKNITURE MAKING The top wlien squared up is %x9xl5 inches. The legs are %x8%x8% inches. Draw a center line after the legs have been planed up 8% inches square. Then proceed in laying out the design. Figure A shows another method for de- signing the legs. Square up the rails %x3xl4 inches. Make the openings on the upper ends of the legs to receive the rails. The same are % inch wide and 3 inches long. Next give to the rails their other pro- portions. Bore holes through edges of legs and faces of rails for the dowel pins. If access cannot be had to a band saw, re- move the design on the legs with a turn saw. The top of the stool can be fastened to the rails by means of cleats, blocks or iron angles. The height of stool No. 3 is that of a THREE STOOLS 117 chair. The legs of this chair can be tap- ered and the position of the lower rails changed, if so desired. Order the following pieces for stool No. 3: Four corner posts— 2%x2%xl6% inches. Four top rails— Ix4%xl6% inches. Four lower rails— lxlxl6l^ inches. Four cleats— %x% or %x%xl5 inches. As the stool is square, all its correspond- ing elements are made alike. The corner posts when completed are 2^2x2% inches ( square )xl6 inches. Make curves on upper corners and taper legs as shown in the drawing. Square up the top rails 1x4x16% inches. The measurment within the tenons is 15 inches. Make the mortises on comer posts to re- ceive the tenons. The lower rails when planed up and squared are 1x1x16% inches over all. The 118 HOME FURNITURE MAKING measurement between the tenons is 15 inches. Make the mortises for the tenons on lower rails. The cleats are % of an inch square by 15 inches. The same are screwed to the inner sides of the upper rails and 1 inch from the top. Clean all parts well, glue and clamp un- til dry. Allow the clamps to remain in place about twelve hours. The cushions required for stools Nos. 1 and 3 can be made with or without springs. The kind of springs generally used are 8 inches. For the cushions above, especially in such cases as specified in No. 1, an open box is made of four pieces. The width of these should be about 2% inches. Across the bottom of the open box or frame are mortised and set in about three pieces of wood to form slats on which to set the springs. The tops of the springs should be tied or anchored with stout twine run- ning in both directions, and fastened to THREE STOOLS 119 the inside of the pieces forming the open box. The springs must be tied securely so they cannot slip from their fastenings and come in contact with adjacent springs. For such furniture as shown on this page, the roan or pebbled leather has come into favor. In stool No. 1 the leather is drawn over the springs and tacked to the outside of the open frame. When the cushion has been completed, the whole is set upon the cleats which are placed 1 inch from the top rails. The lo- cation as to the height of the cleats, how- ever will depend upon the kind of cushions used or made. Five Hints to Amateur Woodworkers 1. To chisel an opening in a board across the grain and to avoid the same from splitting out on the other side, place or clamp a board behind the opening. 2. On concave cuts work the cutting tool from the outside towards the center of 120 HOME FURNITURE MAKING the curve. On convex cuts, work the cut- ting tool from the highest point or center in downward direction. 3. Drive nails or brads at an angle— the same will hold more securely. 4. On concave cuts use the beveled side of the chisel, also when the wood has a tendency to chip and break. 5. The common planes used in bench work are a block plane to plane the end grain, a smooth-plane about 8 inches in length; a jack plane from 12 to 14 inches in length ; a fore-plane from 22 to 26 inches in length and a jointer from 28 to 30 inches in length. **Man only understands thoroughly that which he is able to produce.''— Froebel. UMBRELLA STANDS ARTICLE XI An article that will receive a hearty wel- come in every home is an umbrella stand, examples of which are shown in plate XI. This piece of furniture, besides being an appropriate receptacle for umbrellas, serves adequately well as a place for canes or walking sticks. Copper or brass pans to catch the drip- pings of an umbrella are to be provided for in each stand. These pans should be made to rest on strips as designated in the work- ing drawings. The pans can easily be made at home. Some of the following will, however, be necessary in perfecting a brass or copper drip pan. 1 hand vise, 1 small ball pein hammer, 1 prick punch, 1 jewelers' saw (4 inches deep), 1 chasing hammer, 1 dozen extra blades, 1 round end mallet, 1 set (6) 121 122 HOME FURNITUKE MAKING chasing tools, 1 6-iiicli flat file, 1 pair No. 12 snips, 1 4-incli flat file, 1 4-incli round file^ 1 sheet emery cloth. The above is a complete list of articles that are essential in general hammered metal work. Soft sheet copper can he had upon the market in sheets ahout 30x60 inches. Cop- per or brass is numbered according to thick- ness or gauge. Soft sheet bras3 comes in rolls about 12 inches wide. Mortise and tenon joints are used in the making of the three umbrella stands shown on this page. Stand No. 1 requires the following pieces : 4 corner posts— l%xl%x29% inches. 4 top rails— %x3xl3% inches. 4 rails— %x2%xl3% inches. 4 bottom rails— %x3xl3% inches. Make the comer posts first: l%xl%x29 TJMBEELLA STANDS 123 124 HOME FURNITURE MAKING inches. The taper on the top is to folio- next. The top rails are % inch thick, 2yo inchc wide and 12 inches long (between tenons ; The total length of all rails, including th tenons, is 13% inches. The second are to be % inch thick, : inches wide and 12 inches long between th tenons. The bottom rails are to be % inch thick 2% inches wide and 12 inches long betweei the tenons. Do not omit the mortises on the comei post for all tenons on the rails. Provide strips for drip pans. Umbrella stand No. 2 is divided intoi halves by cross rails. Order the following pieces for Stand No. 2. 4 corner posts— l%xl%x29% inches. 2 Tipper side rails— %x3y2x2iy2 inches. 2 Tipper end rails— %x3%xl3y2 inches. 2 lower side rails— %x3x21% inches. UMBRELLA STANDS 125 2 lower end rails— %x3xl3y2 inches. 2 vertical end rails- %x2y2x2iy2 inch- >• 1 center top rail-%x3y2xl3y2 inches. 1 center bottom rail-%x3xl3y2 inches. The four corner posts when completed re iy2xiy2 inches square by 29 inches. Make the taper on the top ends. The two upper side rails when completed re % inch thick, 3 inches wide and 20 Qches long— including tenons, 2iy2 inches. The bottom side rails when squared up re % inch thick, 2y2 inches wide and 20 aches long— including tenons, 2iy2 inches. The top end rails are to be % inch thick, inches wide and 12 inches long— includ- ng tenons, 13y2 inches. The bottom end rails are to be % inch hick, 2y2 inches wide and 12 inches long— ncluding tenons, 13y2 inches. The two vertical end rails are to be % nch thick, 2 inches wide and 20 inches ong— including the tenons, 21% inches. 126 HOME FUEIiriTURE MAKING The top center rail when squared up % inch thick, 3 inches wide and 12 incl long— including tenons, 13% inches. The bottom center rail is % inch thic 2% inches wide and 12 inches long— i eluding tenons, 13% inches. Make the mortises for all tenons of rai on corner posts. Provide strips for two drip pans. Umbrella stand No. 3, like that of N 1, has all four views alike. Order the following pieces for stan No. 3: 4 corner posts— l%xl%x30% inches. 4 top rails— 3/4x3x14% inches. 4 lower rails— %x2%xl4% inches. 4 bottom rails— %x3xl4% inches. 12 slats-%x2%x20 inches. Note the following measurements for a] pieces in umbrella stand No. 3 when com pleted. 4 comer posts— l%xl% inches (square by 30 inches long. Make top tapers. UMBRELLA STANDS 127 4 top rails— % inch thick, 2% inches wide and 13 inches long— including tenons, 14% inches. 4 lower rails— % inch thick, 2 inches wide and 13 inches long— including tenons, 14% inches. 4 bottom rails— % inch thick, 2% inches wide and 13 inches long— including tenons, 14% inches. 12 slats— % inch thick, 2 inches wide and 18% inches long— including tenons, 20 inches long. Locate and make mortises on comer posts for tenons on all rails. The slats are also mortised onto rails. Five Hints to Amateur Woodworkers 1. Do not neglect the use of a marking gauge. 2. Draw lines on work requiring excel- lent results with a knife or similar tool. 3. Chalk lines should not be used in 128 HOME FURNITURE MAKING furniture construction. Same can be ap- plied conveniently to larger structures as found in carpentry. 4. Do not drive a screw into a board. Its holding qualities are not strengthened thereby. 5. The simple cuts in woodwork are: straight edge cut, cross cut, diagonal cut, bevel cut, convex cut and concave cut. Special Note.— The author wishes to call attention to the illustrations used in con- nection with this series of drawings. To some readers the mechanical drawings may appear confusing and it is because of this fact that a brief explanation is herewith given. In ordinarily representing a perspective view of an object, the drawing is obtained by looking from some one fixed point, while a view represented by a mechanical draw- ing, as shown above, supposes the observ- er to be looking from an infinite number of points, and always in parallel lines. UMBRELLA STANDS 129 The illustration of the sewing table in Plate rV, however, was a perspective draw- ing drawn by means of mechanical instru- ments and in accordance with mechanical principles. BENCHES ARTICLE XII The first bench, as shown on plate 12, is especially designed to serve as a piano bench. Bench No. 2 is of practical value when used as a hall or window seat. In the piano bench the seat acts as a cov- er on a box underneath which are two com- partments of ample size wherein sheet musio can be stored. Hence Bench No. 1 serves a double purpose, that of a piano bench and music cabinet inclusive. The style of hinges, fasteners, catches or hooks to be chosen is left to the fancy of the worker. The rails of the above bench are *'set or let into" the edges of the ends, so the outside of the rails and end boards will be flush. The rails may be put in place with glue and round head blued or brass screws. The kind of screws used depends upon the style of finish given to the grain. 130 BENCHES 131 The stretcher has a tenon 2% inches wide and 1% inches long, cut on each end which fits into a mortised cut in each end piece. A mortise is cut into the tenon to admit a key. In the hall or window bench the joints on all its pieces are the mortise and tenon. As specified in the drawing of bench No. 1, cleats should also be provided in bench No. 2. Bench No. 1 requires the following pieces: One seat— Ixl5%x36% inches. Two rails— %x4y2x33y2 inches. Two ends— 1x14x17% inches. One bottom— %xl2x31% inches. Two cleats— %x4%xl2 inches. One center piece— %x4xl2 inches. One stretcher— 1x51/2x361/2 inches. Two keys— %x%x4 inches. 1. The seat when squared up will Be 1x15x36 inches. HOME FURNITURE MAKING m BEITCHES 133 134 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 2. The two rails are to be %x4x33 inches each. 3. The two ends when planed to size measure Ixl3%xl7 inches. v 4. The bottom board will measure. %x 31x11,1/2 inches. 5. Make the two cleats %x4x(a little less than) 11% inches. 6. The centerboard is to measure %x 3%xll% inches. 7. The stretcher should be squared up to 1x5x36 inches. 8. The keys are to be %x% inches at the top end, %x% inches at the lower end and 3% inches long. 9. Make mortises on end pieces for tenons on stretcher as stated above. 10. Make mortises on tenons of stretch- er for keys. 11. The cleats are screwed onto the un- der side of the seat. 12. Clean and sandpaper all parts well before assembling. BENCHES 135 Bench No. 2 requires the following pieces : Four comer posts— iy2xiy2x28y2 inches. One seat— 1x131/2x361/2 inches. Two side rails— %x3x36 inches. Two end rails— %x4%xl3% inches. Two top end braces— %x2i/2xl3i/2 inches. Two side braces— 1x1x361/2 inches. Two bottom end braces— 1x1x13% inches. Six slats— %x2%x6 inches. Note the following measurements for each piece of Bench No. 2 when squared up: 1. Foiir comer posts— 1% x 1% x 28 inches. 2. One seat— 1x13x36 inches. 3. Two side rails— %x2%x36i^ inches or more over all; 35% inches between tenons. 4. Two end rails— %x4xl2% inches or more over all— 12 inches between tenons. 5. Two top end braces— %x2xl2% 136 HOME rURNITUEE MAKING inches or more over all— 12 inches between tenons. 6. Two side braces— 1x1x36% inches, between tenons 35% inches. 7. Two lower end braces— 1x1x12% inches or more over all— between tenons 12 inches. 8. The six slats are each to measure %x2x5% inches— between tenons 5 inches. Use mortise and tenon joints in each case. Do not omit the cleats for the seat. The seat is fastened on the underside by means of cleats to the four rails. HINTS TO AMATEURS The Knifo and Some Possibilities for its Use The terms * ' whittling ' ' and ' * knife work ' ' are expressions that stand for a system of manual training for children from nine to twelve years of age; a system that can be operated in the ordinary school-room or BENCHES 137 workroom at home without a large outlay for extra room and equipment; a system in which the knife is the only cutting tool. In selecting the knife there are a num- ber of points to be considered. The quality of the steel should be of the best and the blade carefully tempered so that it will hold a keen cutting edge. If the temper is too hard, the edge will nick and break, and if too soft, the edge will turn over, giving a great deal of trouble and doing poor work. The construction of the knife should be good and the design such that it is well adapted to the work to be done and to the capacity of the user. There are a number of styles of knives which are used for this work. The ordinary two bladed pocket knife or jack-knife, the round handled knife with the fixed blade, the sloyd-pattem knife with a fixed blade. Of these three styles of knife, the sloyd-pattem, commonly known as the sloyd-knife, seems to be the best adapted to schoolroom or children's work 138 HOME FURNITURE MAKING in thin wood. Because of the thin edge on the pocket knife which makes it difficult to keep it in good order, the sloyd-knife has the advantage over the pocket knife. The second form of knife has a wide blade, ground from edge to back, making it very hard to whet properly. The sloyd- knife will not close up; the blade has a thick, strong back, and is ground from the edge to the center, insuring a strong cut- ting edge; the point of the blade is strong and centrally located. These knives are made in several sizes, but the most suit- able one, for young workers, is the size with a two and one-half inch blade. When the knife first comes from the maker, it is not in condition to do good whittling; it has what may be termed a commercial edge ; that is, the edge is ground quite blunt or bluif, so that it will not be easily damaged while in stock. The first thing before using the knife is to whet it to a thin keen edge. I BENCHES 139 The proper way to whet a knife is to lay the blade on the whetstone and whet a straight bevel from the edge to the center of the blade. The very appearance of a knife so sharpened carries with it the idea of keeness and cut. In the sloyd-knif e, this gives a wide bevel and at the same time, on account of the thickness of the blade, in- sures a strong edge. In whittling with a knife whet in this way, the bevel forms a support for the blade and a shaving can be taken off while the blade is still in contact with the wood the whole width of the bevel, thus insuring a straight cut. When whet- ting a knife, use both right and left hands, always keeping the edge of the knife turned toward or away from you. Lay the blade flat on the stone and rub back and forth the full length of the latter, not in circles. A good oilstone is an absolute necessity. "Whet the knife on one side until you can feel, by running your finger over the oppo- site side, that the edge is beginning to turn 140 HOME FURNITURE MAKING or rough up, then whet the other side until the edge turns back. This rough edge is called a wire edge, and shows' that the edge is whetted down very thin. The wire edge must be removed by ^^ strapping" (strop- ping) or by cutting into a piece of waste wood that lies handy. For strapping, se- lect a piece of belt leather and glue it to a board. Coat the surface of the leather with flour emery and oil. Use just enough oil to make the emery into paste. Eub the knife the full length of the *^ strap," (strop) drawing it away from the edge and turning it over at each stroke. The wire edge will soon be gone and a keen cutting edge be obtained, with which the finest shavings can be removed. If good results are wanted, keep the knife in good order. MUSIC RACK AND CABINET AETICLE Xin The parts of the music rack No. 1 are all fastened by means of mortise and tenon joints. The detail sketch *^a" shows how the comers of the shelves are to be fitted into the corner posts. Order the following pieces at the mill for the music rack No. 1: Four corner posts— l%xl%x39% inches. Four shelves— %xl5%x25% inches. Five slats in rear— %xli/2x25 inches. Six slats, three in a side— %xiy2x25 inches. One back rail— %x3x25y2 inches. Two side rails, top— %x3xl5y2 inches. One back rail, bottom- %x2y2x25y2' inches. Two side rails, bottom— %x2%xl5%' inches. 141 142 HOME FURNITUBE MAKING When squared up and finished, all parts measure as follows: Four comer posts— l%xl%x39 inches. Four shelves— %xl5x25 inches. (Note how shelves are to be fitted into comer posts from detail sketch **a"). Five slats in rear— y2xl%x25% inches or longer; between tenons, 24% inches. Six slats, three on a side— %xli/4x25 inches or longer; between tenons, 24 V^ inches. One back rail, top— %x2 1/2x25% inches or longer; between tenons, 24 inches. Two side rails, top— %x2%xl5i/4 inches or longer; between tenons, 14 inches. One back rail, bottom— %x2x25i/4 inches or longer; between tenons, 24 inches. Two side rails, bottom— %x2xl5%, inch- es or longer; between tenons, 14 inches. Do not omit the tenons and mortises in their respective places. Music Cabinet No. 2 has a door and ad- justable shelves. MUSIC RACK AND CABINET 143 Shelves **U'' and *'V'' have tenons %' inch thick by 2 inches wide and pass through mortises of the same dimensions on the large side pieces. Pins, which go through the tenons, hold the above shelves in place. The music cabinet requires the follow- ing pieces: Two side pieces— Ixl6%x40% inches. Two shelves, U and V— 1x16x231/2 inches. One top rail, **a"— Ix4%x22 inches. One bottom rail— Ix2%x22 inches. The door: Two vertical pieces— Ix4%x30% inches. Two horizontal pieces— Ix4%xl3% inches. One panel— %xl3x23 inches. The inside: Four strips, '*s"— i/2xl%x30% inches. Five shelves— %xl4x20% inches. Five rests, **r''— %xli/2xl3% inches. The rear: 144 HOME FURNITURE MAKING Two vertical pieces, ^'b^'— Ix2y2x30y^ inclies. w I ^ M a One horizontal piece, *'c"— 1x21/2x21%' inclies. MUSIC RACK AND CABINET 145 S^SL//^0^ > f -ujoiQ-ui/i ^ n L i^^^ kS'-H 15ctS 146 HOME FURNITURE MAKING One panel— %xl8x30% inches. The following are the dimensions for the above pieces when reduced to size : Two side pieces— 1x16x40 inches. Two shelves, ''u'' and *^v"-lxl5x23 inches. One top rail, *^ a' ^—1x4x21% inches. ^ One bottom rail— 1x2x21% inches. The door: Two vertical pieces— 1x4x30 inches. . Two horizontal pieces— 1x4x13 inches. One panel— %xl2%x22% inches. The inside: Four strips, ^^s^'— 1/2x1x30 inches. Five shelves— %xl3%x20 inches. Five rests, ''r^'- 1/2x1x121/2 inches. The rear: Two vertical pieces, ^'b"— 1x2x30 inches. One horizontal piece, **c"— 1x2x21% inches. One panel— %xl7x30 inches. Detail sketch S^ shows how the strips re- quired on the inside of the cabinet can be MUSIC RACK AND CABHsTET 147 made from one board. The distance be- tween centers of the 1-inch holes is 5 inches. Detail sketch ^^d'' shows how the five shelves are to be cut o:n the ends. The same rest on r^ Gluing.— When ready for use, the glue should be hot and of the consistency of thin syrup. It must be applied with a brush, in a thin uniform coating, to both surfaces that are to be joined, and must be well brushed into the pores of the wood. Too much glue will prevent the pieces from coming together at the joint. The appli- cation should be made as quickly as possi- ble, because glue begins to cool and set as soon as it is taken from the pot; it will set less quickly if the pieces to be glued are warmed. After the pieces have been put together, they should be rubbed to squeeze out the surplus glue, and finally clamped in place and allowed to remain until dry— at least twelve hours. In gluing large surfaces, such as veneers 148 HOME FURNITURE MAKING which must be secured to their foundations^ a considerable amount of apparatus is re- quired. Before the glue is applied, a heat- ing box or chamber, which is maintained at a high temperature by coils of steam pipe, is used to heat the pieces to be united, and very heavy clamps are required to squeeze the superfluous glue from the joint. It is important to remember that while the film of glue uniting two pieces should al- ways be continuous, the pieces themselves should be brought as closely together as possible. When end grain is to be glued, it should first be sized; that is, coated with a thin glue, in order to fill the pores of the wood, and allowed to dry before the joint is made. Otherwise, the glue that is put into the joint is drawn off into the grain and becomes useless as a fastening. An example of good gluing is found in the common lead pencil, the wooden portion of which consists of two strips glued to- MUSIC RACK AND CABINET 149 gether. The line of the joint can readily be traced upon the end of the pencil, bnt if the work is well done, it will be found that while the joint is a strong one, the amount of glue between the pieces is so small as to be scarcely visible. Liquid glues are supplied by the trade. They require no heating and are, therefore, always ready for use. -W. F. M. Goss. Work promotes health and wealth, with- holds from many a sin, strengthens against many a temptation, and gives consolation and peace of mind in the evil day. MISSION CHAIRS ARTICLE XIV An article of furniture of necessity in every household is a chair. In the making of the chairs shown herewith the best ma- terial that can be used is oak, but white pine may also be used with good results. In finishing, the wood should be stained the color preferred and finished with a wax preparation. Experience will readily show that a stain will penetrate wood to some depth and when given a semi-polish with some wax preparation, the finish will be found to be more serviceable than a high piano finish. A marred or scratched finish can be restored to its former condition by applying the proper wax preparation. For cushions and upholstering, Spanish leather will be found most satisfactory and to surpass any other material for a simi- lar use. Substitutes for the above are linen, 150 MISSION CHAIRS 151 velonr, cotton velvet, arras cloth or panta- sote. The above materials can be pur- chased from large furniture dealers or at large department stores. Loose cushions may also be used to great advantage in so far that they allow each piece to be thor- oughly dusted and renovated. A false bottom is to be provided, as shown by the broken lines in the working drawing. The same should be held up by small strips, about seven-eighths inch square nailed around the inside of the three inch pieces. The working drawing shows the false bottom to be three-quarters inch in thickness, but it can, however, be made a little thinner and raised higher. A good layer of upholstering hair should be placed over the false bottom. The leather seat, or whatever material that may be used, is then to follow, stretched tightly and held in place by temporary tacks. Bronze, antique copper, dull finished brass or wrought iron upholstering nails are next 152 HOME FURNITURE MAKING driven in about every inch, and the tempo- rary tacks withdrawn. Order the following pieces for chair No. 1: Two front legs— l%xl%xl9 inches. MISSION CHAIRS 153 154 HOME FUENITUPtE MAKING Two rear legs— I%x4x40y2 inches. Note— Four inches is to be ordered for the width to allow for the slight angles given to the rear legs. Four crosspieces (about seat)— %x3V2X 15 y2 inches. Two crosspieces (front and rear)— %x 2%xl5% inches. Two crosspieces (on either side)— Ygx 21/2x151/0 inches. Two crosspieces (on rear legs)— %x2% xl5% inches. Three slats— 1/2x21/2x16 inches. Note the steps as follows in working up the above chair: 1. Square the legs to size, the front legs are l%xl%xl8% inches; the rear legs 1% xl%x40 inches. Do not omit the angle of two inches. 2. The four crosspieces about seat meas- ure y8x3xl5% inches over all; between tenons 14 inches. 3. Two crosspieces on front and rear MISSION CHAIRS 155 are to be %^2xl5% inches over all; between tenons 14 inches. 4. The two crosspieces on either side, when completed, will measure %x2xl5% inches over all ; between tenons 14 inches. 5. The crosspieces on the rear legs will be %x2xl5V2 inches over all— between ten- ons 14 inches. 6. The three slats on the rear legs must each measure %x2xl6 inches over all— be- tween tenons 14% inches. Around the inside of the 3 inch pieces which support the seat, % inch square strips should be fastened for the seat board to rest on. The seat board is held securely in place by glue and screws ; the same will keep the chair rigid. Upholstering hair is then placed upon the seat and leather stretched as explained above. The pieces of both chairs are assembled with simple mortise and tenon joints. Do not omit the proper tenons and mortises on the various pieces. 156 HOME FURNITURE MAKING Order the following pieces for chair No. 2: Two legs (front) —2x2x19 inches. Two legs (rear)— 2x4x40% inches. Four crosspieces under seat— %x2%x 14% inches. Four crosspieces on sides— %x3xl4% inches. Two crosspieces on front and rear— %x 4x14% inches. Three crosspieces on rear legs— %x3x 14% inches. One seat— %xl7xl7 inches. See mechanical perspective and note how the seat is faced with leather. The seat can be made from strips about 4 inches wide and doweled together. Hints to Amateurs One of the principal tools of carpentry is the hammer. The heads of all hammers are generally made of steel. The face, that portion which comes in contact with the head of a nail when struck, is hardened so MISSION CHAIES ^ 157 as not to be injured by repeated blows upon the nail. The body struck by the face of the hammer must be considerably softer, for should the case be the reverse, the ham- mer would show an impression. When hard substances are struck by a hammer precaution must be taken that the face of the latter is not badly scarred. That portion upon a hammer which en- ables the withdrawing of nails, is called the claw. Hammers are arranged in size according to their weight. The same vary in size from seven to twenty ounces. The kind of hammer usually employed by bench workers weighs from fourteen to six- teen ounces. ** Manual training is the greatest thing that has come into our public schools. It is the one and only bridge over which the boy can walk into that work of activities he sees everywhere around him.''— Amelia Hyde Center,' in the School Century. TWO COUCHES ARTICLE XV As with all other pieces of furniture shown in this series of drawings, the hand- some couches on plate No. 15 have been so designed as to come within amateur ability. Simplicity and strength are the predomi- nant features in the structural makeup of each couch. The following stock list of materials, or- dered mill planed and sandpapered, will be sufficient to make up couch No. 1 as illus- trated: Two rails— Ix6%x81% inches. Two rails— lx6V2x31% inches. One rail (on end)— lx3%x31i/2 inches. One panel (on end)— %xllx31V2 inches. One piece (H)— %x3x31% inches. Two pieces (triangular)— %xl0%xl8 inches. 158 TWO COUCHES 159 Thin strips on above triangular pieces enough for all lengths: Two strips— %x%x45 inches. 160 HOME rURNITUKE MAKING Two posts— 2x2x25 inches. Two posts— 2x2x14 inches. The cushions may be made with or with- out springs as desired. If made without TWO COUCHES 161 I f-*- fc/-*^. *P^ 162 HOME FURNITURE MAKING springs, about 18 slats, % inch thick, 2 inches wide, and 31 inches long, must be pro- vided for in the material list. The same are to be placed on cleats fastened to the inside of each side rail. The two cleats are fastened with screws. The height of these cleats will depend upon the kind of cush- ions used. The cushions shown in the illustrations are upholstered with hair and stretched with leather. Note the arrangement of cleats and slats for cushions in working drawing for couch No. 2. The leather se- lected should be of a color that will harmon- ize with the wood finish which is applied to each piece of furniture. For additional information on uphol- stering and the making of leather seats or cushions refer to the preceding articles: Article V, the comer chair; article X, stools, and article XIV, chairs. Soft leather, hard leather, sheep skin, roan or pebbled leather, chase leather, genuine cowhide TWO COUCHES 163 leather, linen velonr, cotton, velvet and can- vas are used in making cushions for chairs, couches, settles, davenports, etc. One long cushion and a short one for the head will be found equally satisfactory, instead of three as shown in the illustration. All rails are mortised into the posts for a depth of % inch or more. The vertical slats on the ends in No. 2, the panel, the headpiece (H) in No. 1 are also mortised. The material list has allowed for all tenons, but sufficient care must be taken to have all dimensions between tenons correct. Glue the joints to- gether. To the second piece of furniture, No. 2, may appropriately be ascribed the name couch bed. The same can be provided with a floss mattress and box spring. An em- broidered canvas (or other material) spread, and a pillow for the head, will make the article complete. Order the following pieces for coucli No. 2: 164 HOME FUENITUKE MAKING Two rails (side)— 1x7^2x791/2 inches. Two rails (end)— Ix6%x33% inches. Two rails (end) —1x31/2x331/2 inches. Two rails (end, top)— 1x3x33% inches. Fourteen slats (on end)— %x2%x7i/2 inches. Four posts— 2x2x22% inches. Two cleats for cushion slats— 1x1x79% inches. Seventeen slats for cushion— %x2i/2x33% inches. The letters *^s'' signify the slats on the ends. Hints to Amateurs Some of the common joints used in vari- ous forms of wood construction: 1. A lapped and strapped joint. 2. A butted and doweled joint. 3. A fished joint. 4. A scarf or spliced joint. 5. A doweled butt joint (at right angles). 6. A toenail joint. TWO COUCHES 165 7. A drawbolt joint. 8. A plain bntt joint. 9. A glued and blocked joint. 10. A hopper joint. 11. A halved joint. 12. A cross lap joint. 13. A middle lap joint. 14. An end lap joint. 15. A dovetail halving or lap dovetail joint. 16. A beveled halving joint. 17. A notched joint. 18. A checked joint. 19. A cogged or corked or canlked joint. 20. A ledge or rebate or rabbet joint. 21. A dado or gained or grooved joint. 22. A dovetail dado joint. 23. The common mortise and tenon joint. 24. The through mortise and tenon joint. 25. The blind mortise and tenon joint. *'A well understood failure is of more value than a blindly achieved success." THREE SMOKERS' TABLES AETICLE XVI A smoker's table will be found a most convenient piece of furniture in any house- hold where smokers abide. In many homes, where the ash tray and its accessories are placed upon tables, the ownership of a smokers' table would eliminate the practice and save the table tops from being defaced by possible bums or scratches. In a smoker's den or niche, a man's pri- vate room or study, a table, as shown on plate 16, will be most welcome. The style of construction of the smokers' tables has purposely been so varied as to meet the peculiarities of taste which often arise in this connection. Skilful workers and those who can ma- nipulate a lathe, or those who are familiar with the hammered metal work will find great satisfaction and enjoyment in turning 166 167 out a set sncli as generally accompanies a table as shown on this page. The legs or supports for table No. 1 are made of strips crossing some distance above the center at an angle. In joining the two pieces to form a leg, a cross lap joint is used. The joint is halved and both pieces project either way from the joint. It is necessary to use a bevel square in drawing and obtaining the different angles on the joints in question. Order the following pieces at the mill for table No. 1 : Two strips (on legs)— %x2x41% inches. Two strips (on legs)— %x2x35% inches. One top— %xl4x24% inches. Two side pieces (below top)— %x5i/2xl7 inches. Two end pieces (below top)— %x5xl3 inches. One bottom— %x8xl7 inches. One door— %x3%xl0y2 inches. 168 HOME FUENITUEE MAKING THREE SMOKERS TABLES 169 170 HOME FURNITUBE MAKING One piece (for pipe rings) —%xl%xl7 inches. Note from working drawing and illustra- tion No. 1 how the table top and its com- partment underneath are fitted within the cross pieces or legs. The door is large enough to admit a cigar box. Table No. 2 requires the following pieces dressed on both sides : One top-%xl9y2xl9y2 inches. Four posts— li/2xl%x31 inches. Four rails— %x3xl6% inches. Four rails— %x2xl6i/2 inches. Use the mortise and tenon joint for the above rails. The top is fastened by means of cleats which are screwed on the inside of the top rails and underneath the top. A table, as unique as No. 1, is the one shown in drawing No. 3. The legs are made of four strips. The bottom consists of two pieces which have been cross lapped. The braces beneath the top are made with cross- lap joints. Sketch **A'' shows how the legs THREE smokers' TABLES 171 are fitted into the ends of the upper braces. The joint here used is often called a slip, end or box or open mortise and tenon joint. Table No. 3 requires the following pieces : One top— %xl4%xl4% inches. Four pieces (for legs) — %x2x29% inches. Two pieces (lower braces)— %x2i/2x20% inches. Two pieces (upper braces)— %x2%x8% inches. As explained in preceding articles, in order to obtain a true angle on the wood- work, a full size drawing must be made from the desired angles and transferred by means of a bevel square. The list of common joints from 1 to 25 was given in Article XV. Others follow here : 26. A wedge mortise and tenon joint. 27. The fox tail tenon joint. 28. The dovetail mortise and tenon joint. 29. A pinned mortise and tenon joint. 30. A keyed mortise and tenon joint. 172 HOME FUENITURE MAKING 31. A tusk tenon or shoulder tenon joint. 32. The double mortise and tenon joint. 33. A slip joint, end, open or box mor- tise and tenon joint. 34. A haunched mortise and tenon joint. 35. A housed mortise and tenon joint. 36. A through single dovetail joint. 37. The half lapped or half blind dove- tail joint. 38. The mitered, secret or blind dovetail joint. 39. A beveled point. 40. A plain miter joint. 41. A doweled miter joint. 42. A spline miter joint. 43. A ledge and miter or lapped miter joint. 44. A miter and butt joint. 45. A stretcher joint. 46. A street joint. 47. A plain brace joint. 48. A housed brace joint. THREE smokers' TABLES 173 49. An oblique mortise and tenon joint. 50. The bridle joint. 51. A bird's month joint. 52. A plain or rubbed joint. 53. A rebated, rabbeted or fillistered joint. 54. A matched or tongue and groove joint. 55. A beaded joint. 56. A spline joint. 57. A doweled joint. 58. A long edge miter joint. Illustrations of some of the above joints are given in succeeding articles. THREE SCREENS AETICLE XVn. An article that is of practical value in any room of the home is a screen, three ex- amples of which are shown in drawings of Plate XVII. Thq arrangement of the work- ing drawings has been so made as to con- form with their structural lines, addition of parts and with the developed skill neces- sary in the making of the screens. Plain white oak or quartersawed oak are the best materials that can be chosen for the construction of the articles shown on this page. The same may be said of a great number of other pieces of furniture shown in this series of drawings and articles on home furniture making. The first screen is 66 inches in height and 24 inches deep. The drawing of but one section, however, is shown. To be complete 174 THKEE SCREENS 175 each screen must have three such sections as are designated in the drawings. Each section for No. 1 has two vertical pieces %x2%x66 inches; one top piece, %x 2x19 inches (inside), or 20% inches overall. The overall dimension includes the tenons. The bottom piece is %x5xl9 inches (inside), or 20% inches overall. Screen No. 1 can be made pleasing if paneled in Japanese grass cloth, in some canvas, in denim or leather. For one sec- tion Screen No. 1 requires the following pieces from the mill: Two vertical pieces— %x3x66% inches. One top piece— %x2%x20% inches. One bottom piece— %x5V2x20% inches. The height of screen No. 2 is 68 inches and its width is 22 inches. Each section has two vertical pieces %x2%x68 inches, two upper horizontal pieces, %x2xl7% inches (inside), or 19 inches overall, one bottom piece, %x2i/4xl7% inches (inside), or 19 inches overall and seven slats on top, 176 HOME FURNITURE MAKING ,%x2x8 inches (inside), or 9% inches over- R^ f^ F\ a^ ^a ^ THREE SCREENS 177 all. Select from the above mentioned ma- terials the choice of your panel for No. 2. One section of screen No. 3 is 67 inches and 22 inches wide. The two outisde verti- A^ -ZQ nz] ^S3M4MMJ. IJfJI^td OOOM -p/- Ih -99- cal pieces are %x2x67 inches. The two up- per horizontal pieces enclosing the panel 178 HOME FURNITURE MAKING are %x2xl8 inches (inside), 19% inches overall. The bottom horizontal piece is %x 3x 18 inches (inside), 19% inches overall. Three inside pieces are %x3x41 inches. The thin panel pieces are %x2x41 inches. Order the following pieces in making screen No. 2. The list bears reference to one sec- tion only: Two vertical pieces— %x2%x68% inches. Two upper pieces— %x2%xl9 inches. One bottom piece— %x2%xl9 inches. Seven slats— %x2%x9% inches. Each section for screen No. 3 requires the following pieces: Two vertical pieces— %x2%x67% inches. Two upper pieces— %x2%xl9% inches. One bottom piece— %x3%xl9% inches. Three inside pieces— %x3%x41% inches. Four panel pieces— %x2%x41% inches. Note— The panel cloth or leather can be held in place around its border by means of strips about % inch wide and about % of an inch thick. Do not omit to specify THREE SCREENS 179 enough material for strips in the mill order if the above method of fastening is ob- served. Under the heading of ** Hints to Ama- teurs" the author is giving in this and suc- ceeding articles, clear illustrations of com- mon joints that are met by woodworkers every day. Illustration 1 shows two types of a ledge, rebate or rabbet joint. Such joints are appropriate when applied to boxes. Illustration 2 is a typical example of a dado, gained or grooved joint. For ex- amples of such a joint one will have to look at the making of some boxes, the support- ing of the bottom of a drawer or that of shelves on ** uprights." TWO PORCH SWINGS ARTICLE XVm Spring and summer invite attention to the construction of various kinds of furni- ture for the lawn and porch. Winter, then, is the time to begin work on the above named articles to assure their completion when summer arrives. The lawn swings, as shown on this page, may be supported by- means of ropes or chains (galvanized) hanging from heavy hooks fastened at the ceiling. The swings will be found to be roomy and comfortable and to outwear any number of hammocks. That the porch swings can not turn over when swung can also be said of these pieces of furniture. Frequently swings of this nature are used with much satisfaction in play rooms. To his skillful craftsmen the author sug- gests the problem of devising some practi- 180 TWO PORCH SWINGS 181 cal means of changing one of these swings into a portable lawn swing, if so desired. This will necessitate a stand which, in its construction, must be rigid and substantial and one that can with ease be moved from place to place on the lawn. The seat of a swing should hang about twenty inches from the floor or ground. For cushions roanskin, cowhide, chase leatTier or canvas are often used. The seat proper can be made of cane in place of the thin boards shown in the drawings. Use plain sawed white oak for either of the two swings. Order the following pieces mill planed and sand papered for swing No. 1 : Two pieces (on seat, c)— 1x2x66%' inches. Two pieces (on seat), 1x2x22 inches. Make side pieces on ends (A) from two pieces as follows: Two pieces— %x4V2x23% incHes. Two pieces— %xllxl3% inches. 182 HOME FURNITURE MAKING The other pieces continued are: One piece (on back, D)— %x4l^x6I inches. Plate No. 18 Two pieces (on back) — %x2%x61 inches. Two pieces (arm rests, B)— %x4%x21% inches. TWO POECH SWINGS 183 /ii — 20 OS Wi ^ w T i^l ^.^: :-,# iff *> s^- T ?-*- ■6->- ;:*?7 ^l^ !^ P., 4frfr|4 ^: LI -2>^- I^ f^ ^-^ ^ ^h^ 3^ r \-^ -I •* iy /^•i H 184 HOME FURNITURE MAKING When ordering boards, whose dimensions are small, combine same into larger figures on length and width whenever possible. This method will save time to you and the workmen at the factory. For example, when ordering the lumber for the seat, each board of which is 21% inches long, take the length about three times for one piece. About two or three inches must be added to each to allow for waste. Continue this method of making out the mill order for the seat pieces imtil an account has been made for each one. The thickness of each piece for the seat should be % or % of an inch. Two pieces, E— %x8i/2xl0% inches. Two strips (for cleats)— %x%x57 inches. Two strips (for cleats)— 78x78x22 inches. Order the following pieces at the mill for swing No. 2 : Two pieces (on seat, C)— Ix2%x62% inches. TWO POKCH SWINGS 185 Two pieces (on seat, K)— 1x21/2x231/2 \ inches. Two pieces (on back, A and B)— lx3x ' 51% inches. i Two pieces (on back, E)— 2%xl4i4x : 24% inches. I Nine slats (on back, S)— %x3%xl4% inches. 1 Figure lengths on slats as explained above. Two pieces, D— lx2%xll inches. Two pieces (arm rest), F— %x4%x24 inches. Enough material to give 16 pieces for : seat, each % of an inch thick and 23 inches long, G. Two cleats, H— %x%x52 inches. • I Conmion Joints Fig. 3 shows a cross lap joint. The same I is made by halving both pieces and allow- ing the same to project both ways 'from the 1 joint. In making a halved joint half the 186 HOME FURNITURE MAKING thickness of each piece must notch out and the remaining portion of one just fits into the notch in the other, so that the upper and under surfaces of the pieces are flush. Fig. 4 shows a middle lap joint. The same is made similar to a cross lap joint except that the joint is at the end of both pieces. It is well always to look for examples of the above named joints about the home. **It is just where language fails that drawing is most effective in giving it a clear interpretation of ideas." -Prof. Nadler, Buda Pesth. TWO MORRIS CHAIRS ARTICLE XIX Two Morris chairs of the craftsman order in design are shown on this page. The height of the seat from the floor and its location can be changed according to taste. For example, the front and rear horizontal rails may, with satisfactory results be low- ered from its ascribed position or the framework for the cushion may be lifted to a higher level, etc. The seat, however, should not be shifted above its proper or normal height from the ground. The cushions can be made fixed, loose, box form, or with the aid of springs. The last named is known as a spring seat cushion. The materials best or most chosen for the seat and back cushions are cotton, velvet, canvas, velour, denim, burlap, chase leather, genuine leather, Spanish roan skin, or sheepskin. • 187 188 HOME FURNITURE MAKING Art cushions made of leather retail from $16 to $20 a pair- and those of denim and bnrlap at from $6 to $9. Cheaper grades, of course, can be gotten much cheaper. Nevertheless, the cushions can be made at home at a much less expense. The cushions may be filled with hair or cotton felt. Loose spring seat cushions will be found to retain their shape under hard wear, ifi properly constructed. These cushions are provided with wood frames which slip just inside the frame of the chair. The seat can be removed whenever desired. The loose cushion on the back has no springs, but may be filled with hair, cotton, felt or Java floss. (See Articles V, X, XIV, and XV.) Morris chair No. 1 has notched pieces at the rear ends of the arms that allow the back to be adjusted to different angles. Morris chair No. 2, in order to incline the back, has a metal rod passing through an TWO MOERIS CHAIES 189 bpen design cut in the sides of the rear legs. The author's skillful workers, who have acquired some dexterity in handling the sommon tools of carpentry, may find delight in changing some of the chairs shown in this series of furniture drawings into rockers. [f this change is to be made with the Morris chairs, the backs should be made ** fixed.'' The best rockers or rocking chairs are cut straight with the grain of the wood and then bent with steam pressure by bending machines. But our amateurs have no bend- ing machines and, therefore, they must de- vise some scheme of their own in meeting this problem. A wood or metal form, having the desired rocker shape, may be made, and the same^ together with the material "for the rocker, subjected to steam. The rocker piece should gradually be bent into shape by means of hand screws attached to the mold. There are still other methods used in bending 190 HOME FURNITUKE MAKING <^^ TWO MOKRIS CHAIRS 191 I rum i ^ u r, ■iy PI w^-o ^/-»iLi_A__ J: L 192 HOME FUKNITUKE MAKING rockers. The above manner of bending a rocker is entirely impossible with the scant facilities on hand in the little workshops and the home. Rockers are often cut, but objection can be pointed out in this practice in so far that breaking often takes place when the rocker is cut on a curve that partly crosses the grain. The following pieces of stock, mill planed and sandpapered on four sides, are neces- sary in making Morris chair No. 1: Four posts— 2%x2%x25% inches. Two rails (front and back)— 1x6x23 inches. Four side rails— Ix5%x24 inches. Six side slats— %x3%xl2 inches. Two arm pieces, %x6x38% inches. Nine (or less) slats (seat) %x2%x24 inches. Two cleats— 1x1x23 inches. Two back stiles— 1x3x28% inches. Two back rails— Ix2%xl5 inches. TWO MOEKIS CHAIRS 193 One back rail (bottom)— 1x3x15 incbes. Three back slats— %x2%xl8 inches. One back support— %x% or 1x1x23 inches. Two support rests— lxl%x8V2 inches. Two dowels (bottom of back)— % inch diameter, 6 inches long. Tenon the upper ends of the posts. The projection above the arm rests is 3-16 inch and slightly beveled or rounded. Sandpaper, just enough to take off the sharp comers, the arms, legs and rails. The rear legs on both Morris chairs are made shorter than the front legs. This is done so that the chairs may be properly inclined. To get the correct slant on the bottom ends of the legs, a ** straight edge" should be laid so that its edge touches the bottom of the front post or leg at its front surface, but keep it % inch or 1 inch, as the drawing may call for, above the bottom of the rear post *or leg. Mark with knife or 194 HOME FURNITUEE MAKING pencil along the ** straight edge" across both posts. The slats on the back can either be '4et in'* the whole end or the mortise and tenon joint used. In the former case the mortises in the rails will be %x2 inches. Use plain or quarter sawed oak in the making of both Morris chairs. The stock necessary to make Morris chair No. 2, mill planed and sandpapered on four sides, is given in the following list: Two posts-2y2x2y2x24y2 inches. Two posts (rear)— 2y2x4x24% inches. Two side rails— Ix2%x26 inches. Two side rails— Ix6%x26 inches. Two rails (front and rear)— Ix6%x23 inches. Six slats (side)— %x4%x6% inches. Two arm pieces— %x4%x35% inches. Nine slats (on seat)— I%x2%x26 inches. Two cleats— 1x1x23 inches. Two back stiles— 1x3x28% inches. Two back rails— Ix2%xl7 inches. TWO MOERIS CHAIRS 195 Three back slats— i/2x2%x22% inches. One rod for back. The joints used in assembling rails and slats are mortise and tenon. The joints used in fitting the arm pieces onto the posts are filed by many wood- workers under the name of '^middle lap'* joint. Dowel pins are passed from the inner sides of the posts to insure holding of the arm pieces. The rear legs of chair No. 2 are 4 inches wide at the upper ends and 2% inches at the lower ends. Observe the construction of same in illustration and working draw- ing. Before applying glue to any of the pieces of the chairs, have all clamps ready and set for use. Allow about twelve hours for glue to dry. The joint shown in illustration 5 is that of a * through" mortise and tenon joint. The mortise is cut clear through one piece. The tenon is cut to a depth equal to or 196 HOME FURNITURE MAKING more than the thickness of the mortised piece. The figure shows the cheeks of the tenon cut on two sides. The cheeks of a tenon may be cut on two or four sides. Illustration 6 shows an example of the ** blind ^' mortise and tenon joint. In such a joint the tenon does not extend clear through the mortised piece, as is the case of the ** through'' mortise and tenon joint. Figure 6 shows the cheeks of the tenon cut on two sides. The cheeks of the tenon may also be cut on two or four sides. LIBRARY TABLES ARTICLE XX The library tables, the working drawings for which are here given, are mission in style and will be found both well propor- tioned and of pleasing appearance. Order the stock from the mill and in so doing avoid the hard work of planing and sandpapering the table tops, stretchers, legs and panels. Select quarter sawed white oak for your table. Order the table top for No. 1 to size: I%x28x44 inches. In this case several pieces will be jointed and glued together. The top piece in its entireness is squared to thickness, width and length. Thus, we say, that when a board is to be treated or * * squared up " on four sides or * * surface ' ' on four sides, it is s-4-s. 197 198 HOME FURNITUKE MAKING Order the following pieces for the rest of the table: One stretcher— 1x12 %x42 inches. Four legs— 21/2x21/2x291/2 inches. Two side rails— Ix3%x35 (or more) inches. Two end rails (upper)— Ix3%x22 (or more) inches. Two pieces (center, on end)— Ix3%x22 (or more) inches. Two pieces (bottom, on end) —1x21/2x22 (or more) inches. Four slats— %x4x9 inches. Four keys— % (or %)x%x3% inches. For table No. 2 order the stock as speci- fied above. One top (s-4-s)— I%x36x53 inches. One stretcher (or shelf)— I%x24i/2x49i/^' inches. Four legs— 3x3x301/2 inches. Two side rails— Ix5%x42 (or more) inches. LIBRARY TABLES 19^ Two end rails (upper)— Ix5%x26 (or more) inches. Two end rails (lower)— Ix4%x26 (or more) inches. Two slats— %x6%xl8 inches. Four slats— %x3xl8 inches. Four keys— %x%x3% inches. Figures A and B show methods of fas- tening a rail into a leg. Illustration A is that of a blind mortise and tenon joint; B is that of a haunched mortise and tenon joint. Trim up all the legs to the proper size and then carefully mark ofP the mortises for the rails. The tenons on all rails and cross pieces are to be made next. The table ends (the legs with all their rails, cross pieces and slats), should be glued up first and the glue allowed to harden, after which the tenons of the shelf may be inserted into their mortises and the side rails placed. Make the mortise for the keys to be placed 200 HOME FUENITUEE MAKING LIBRARY TABLES 201 15 I COOs :4 5*1 ^B ^ r> ■0£- m t^ f/* i^c ^■p-y.f^ ;^ t ru|^ I ^ £;. ' — iJ^ -il %. ^ 5i^ 8 f^\' 12 -^r- h?/ __ = =i^^-^rro ♦r^ * :S -fS' r" 202 HOME FUKNITURE MAKING in the middle of the tenons, 15-16 inch from the shoulder of the tenons. The cross piece through which the tenons pass is 1 inch thick. The 1-16 inch less in the mortise is to insure the keys ' pulling the shelf tightly against the side of the cross pieces. The tops can be fastened to the rails by means of wooden strips, wooden buttons or small iron angles. To each table may be added drawers if so desired. The making of the drawers will not be found particularly difficult, but it would be better for the beginner who has had but little experience in handling tools to omit these for the present, or else care- fully examine some good table and note how the drawers are constructed and held in place. The drawings specify that the slats be % inch, but the same may be a thicker ma- terial, as the taste or the opinion might be. The table tops may be faced with leather. This method is generally followed with LIBRARY TABLES 203 more massive tables of which No. 2 is an example. The color of the leather chosen should blend with and emphasize the tone of the wood. Large, round headed brass nails are often used to fasten the strip that finishes the rim and add much to the color, value, and decor- ative quality of a library table. Do not attempt the finishing of any piece unless the same has been thoroughly scraped, sandpapered and cleaned. See articles III and IV. The illustration in figure 7 is that of a common mortise and tenon joint. The same is made by cutting two sides of the tenon beam. For the lower ends of stud- ding, or upright pieces, to prevent lateral motion, it is often applied with much sat- isfaction by carpenters in house building. Figure 8 is a good example of an end, open, box or slip mortise and tenon joint. Look to window screens and light frames for this joint. This same joint multiplied 204 HOME FURNITURE MAKING is found on a chalk box. Such a joint in the multiplied state is machine made and can not be attempted with a common sloyd knife as is tried by pupils in the fifth and sixth grades of some of the public schools. '*We are not sent into the world to do anything into which we can not put our hearts. ' ' BEDS AETICLE XXI Every one knows that the furnishing of a home would be incomplete without the bed. It is because of this fact that the pieces of furniture, as shown on this page, are expected to receive a hearty welcome in this series of drawings on furniture- making for amateurs. The foot end of bed No. 1 is 41 inches high and 42 inches wide. The head end is 46 inches high and 42 inches wide. The two side rails or stretchers are 75 inches in length. For fastening the side stretchers on both beds, patent devices must be purchased at some hardware dealer. The foot end of bed No. 2 is 42 inches high and 48 inches wide, i. e., between posts. The head end is 48 inches high and 48 inch- es wide. The stretchers are 78 inches. 205 206 HOME FURNITURE MAKING The drawings require that strips one- inch square running their whole length be screwed to the inner sides of the stretchers. Slats about three inches wide are to be placed upon these cleats or strips. Small blocks are nailed on either side of the slats. Bed No. 1 requires the following pieces mill planed and sandpapered. Foot End Two posts— 214x21/4x41% inches. One rail (top)— 1x3x43 V2 inches. One rail (bottom)— Ix6%x43% inches. Three vertical slats— %x6%xl9 inches. Four vertical slats— %x3i/2xl9 inches. Head End Two posts— 2%x2i4x46% inches. One rail (top)— 1x3x43^/2 inches. One rail (bottom)— Ix6y2x43y2 inches. Three vertical slats— %x6%x23% inches. Four vertical slats— %x3V2x23% inches. BEDS 207 Two side stretchers— Ix6%x76 inches. Two cleats— 1x1x75% inches. The number of slats needed upon whicH the spring is placed is left to the good judgment of the worker. The same should 208 HOME FURNITURE MAKING be made about 3 inches wide. One or two long strips %x% inches should be ordered for the small blocks fastened on the cleats BEDS 209 [jjj« ?1 i /cPc?- ±db :^[s Upii m ^ n^ A r ¥ M :] rti s; ? Hi ' 'I Li ■ ^^- 1.. tf:rij J4 'A and the inner sides of the long stretchers. Order the following pieces for bed No. 2: 210 HOME FURNITURE MAKING Foot End Two posts— 21/2x21/2x421/2 incHes. Two rails— Ix4%x49% inches. Two rails— 1x21/2x49% inches. One rail (bottom)— 1x61/2x49% inches. Three vertical slats— %x8i/2x9 inches. Four vertical slats— %x2%x9 inches. Head End Two posts— 2%x2%x48i/2 inches. Three rails- 1x41/2x49% inches. Two rails— lx2%x49i/2 inches. One rail— Ix6%x49% inches. Three vertical slats— %x8i/2x9 inches. Four vertical slats— %x2%x9 inches. Two side stretchers— 1x61/2x79 inches. Provide for two cleats, a number of slats for spring and strips for small blocks. Common Joints Illustration 9 is that of a plain miter joint in which the beveled edges or ends ^but and are simply glued or nailed to- BEDS 211 gether. For examples of this joint exam- ine picture frames. Illustration 10 is that of a plain or rubbed joint. Such a joint has the edges of two boards glued together tightly. Plain tables have these joints applied to the tops. How to Apply a Finish to Oak A satisfactory finish can be obtained by applying a coat of brown Flemish water stain partly diluted. When dry, sandpaper surface with No. 00 paper. Sandpaper with the grain. A coat of dark filler should then follow. When the filler has hardened, a thin coat of shellac is to be put on. When the latter has dried, the same should be sand- papered lightly and one or two coats of wax applied and polished. Directions for using filler and wax can be found upon the cans in which the ma- terials are purchased. The above methods 212 HOME FURNITURE MAKING if followed, will result in obtaining a beau- tiful dull gloss so much sought by finishers of modem furniture. DAVENPORTS AETICLE XXII From the beginning, in presenting this series of furniture drawings, the author has given close attention to creating only such designs wherein refinement of outline and harmony of details are conspicuously re- garded. A glance at the settles or daven- ports shown herewith will substantiate this fact. The following stock list of materials should be ordered mill planed and sand- papered for davenport No. 1 as illustrated. Oak is the most suitable wood for this piece of mission furniture. Four posts— l%xl%x32% inches. One rail (top)— Ix4%x71% inches. Two rails (front and rear)— 1x5x71% inches. Two end rails— lx4%x25V2 inches. Two end rails— Ix7y2x25% inches. 213 214 HOME FURNITURE MAKING Eight slats— 1/2x21/2x181/2 Indies. Seven slats— %x3%xl8y2 inches. Eight end slats— %xl%xl8% inches. Six end slats— %x3y2xl8i/2 inches. Two cleats— 1x1x70 inches. Provide for slats to be placed upon cleats if cushions are desired without springs. They should be about % inch thick and 2 inches wide. All rails and slats are mortised into place for a depth of % inch or more. When join- ing the pieces, glue should be used. Nails (brads or finishing nails), can be driven into the posts intersecting the tenons of the rails on the inside. The same will not show and will help to make the davenport more solid. It is best, however, to drive the nails a short distance into the wood by means of a nail set or nail punch. The following pieces should be ordered as above for davenport No. 2 : Four posts— 21/2x21/2x31% inches. DAVENPORTS 215 Two rails, front and rear— Ix5%x83i/^ Indies. One rail— 1x81/2x83% inches. Plate No. 22 One rail— 1x31/2x831/2 inches. Four end rails— 1x4x29% inches. Six slats— %x4%x22 inches. 216 HOME FURNITURE MAKING Two cleats— 1x1x82 inches. Provide for slats for cushions as stated above. See articles 10, 14, 15 and 19 for aid in making and providing for the cushions. DAVEITPOKTS 217 ^^o^- /r- [ ^^ r-H •»^-*-p«-' L^i M ^ 218 HOME FUENITUEE MAKING niustration 11 is that of a spline joint. The same is made by plowing correspond- ing grooves in the edges of each board to be joined. A spline or slip feather is in- serted in each groove. Illustration 12 is an example of a pinned mortise and tenon joint. In such a joint a pin is driven through the mortised beam and through the tenon to keep them from drawing apart. The cheeks of the tenons may be cut on two or four sides. The joint is used on the end rails in davenport No. 2. Some Woods and Their Characteristics Yellow poplar, sometimes called tulip tree or whitewood, is found to be usually light, soft, stiff and of fine texture. The same is not strong. Black walnut is hard, heavy, strong and coarse grained. It is easily worked, but will check if not carefully seasoned. Choco- late brown is the color of this wood. Ash resembles oak, but is coarser, and DAVENPOKTS 219 less attractive tlian oak. It is also easier to work than oak. Beeehwood has close grain, is hard, strong, heavy, works well and takes a good polish. White oak is hard and liable to check un- less carefully seasoned. The bark has a grayish white color. It is one of the most valuable woods in general use. Eed oak is coarser in texture than white oak and is often brittle. It is also more por- ous, less durable and more difficult to season. Maple wood is heavy, hard, strong, tough and of fine texture. The same is often wavy grained and takes a fine polish. Sugar maple, in which, blister, bird's eye and sometimes curly effects are found, is the hardest variety of maple known. The silver or white maple is softer than sugar maple, lighter in color and less in weight. White pine is soft, light, not strong, close, 220 HOME FURNITURE MAKING straight grained, easy to work and takes a good polish. Pines have long, smooth, straight and solid trunks. Hard pine, yellow pine or long leaved pine wood is heavy, tough, hard, strong, coarse grained and durable. Black spruce wood is light, soft and not strong, straight grained and satiny. The same contains considerable resin. White spruce wood has characteristics general to those of black spruce with the exception that its color is light. Cypress wood is light, soft, close, straight grained, not strong, resinous, and easily worked. It has a color between light and dark brown. Hemlock wood is light, soft, stiff, brittle, coarse grained and inclined to splinter. The same has a reddish gray color, shrinks and warps considerably, wears rough, but retains nails firmly. BOOKCASES ARTICLE XXIII The two bookcases shown on this page are comparatively easy to make. The shelves of bookcase No. 2 should be made adjustable, thus facilitating the shelving of books of different dimensions. Order the following pieces of white oak or quarter sawed oak, planed and sand- papered on both sides for bookcase No. 1: Two sides— %xl2%x48% inches. Two shelves— %xl2xl9% inches. One shelf (bottom) -%xl2y2xl9y2 inch- es. One shelf (top) — %xl4xl9i/2 inches. For door: Two pieces— %x2%x28% inches. Two pieces— %x2%xl6% inches. For rear: One piece (top)— %x6%xl9% inches. One piece (bottom)— %x4%xl9% inches. 221 222 HOME FURNITURE MAKING "Panel (made from several pieces)— %x 191/2x36 inches. Bookcase No. 2 requires the following pieces from the mill: Two sides— %xl3%x53 inches. BOOKCASES 223 ( mrTl J LJo-i JAM It — -'^^ f'^'P- ? p/- r^ e>^x/ H-T^CV-^ 231 232 HOME FUKNITUEE MAKING Two pieces (between upper two shelves) —Y^xGxG inches. Two pieces (upon which drawer slides) — %x3%xl8 inches. The front or writing hoard: Two pieces— '%x3%xl5 inches. Four horizontal pieces— %x3%x24% inches. The rear has: One piece— %x9%x29% inches. One piece— %x5y2x29y2 inches. One panel— %x29% (wide)xl3 inches. The drawer (front)— %x4%x30i/2 inches. Sides— % (or Iess)x4%xl2 inches. Eear— %x3y2x30y2 inches. Bottom (soft wood)— %xl2%x30 inches. Examine some drawer abont the home and observe its construction. Trimmings, such as knobs, hinges and supports, must also be provided for in the making of both desks. Pigeon holes have not been shown in the drawings of either desk. The same may be added and arranged according to WKITING DESKS 233 individual taste. Tlie material chosen should be % inch thick and soft wood. Figure 15 shows the construction of a keyed mortise and tenon joint. The ten- on of one piece protrudes through the mor- tise of the other piece far enough to re- ceive a removable peg or key. The key must be tapered in order to draw up tightly the mortised piece. Desk No. 1 has this joint applied to its shelves. Other examples can be found in this series of drawings on furniture mak- ing. Figure 16 is an illustration of a plain butt joint. The same is made by joining pieces edgewise or endwise without over- lapping any parts. Examples of such a joint can be found on simple frame boxes. The Grain of Wood The woodworker speaks of woods as fine grained, cross grained, coarse grained, or straight grained. 234 HOME FURNITURE MAKING Wood is said to be fine grained wlien tlie annual rings are relatively narrow, and coarse grained when these rings are wide. It will be found that fine grained wood will generally take a high polish, while with coarse grained wood this is not always pos- sible. Wood is said to be straight grained when the fibers are straight and parallel to the direction of the trunk of the tree. If the fibers of wood are distorted or twisted so as to be spiral in form, and the growing follows up around the trunk of the tree, the wood is said to be cross grained. CHINA CLOSET AND BUFFET ARTICLE XXV Again, in presenting the two pieces of furniture shown in plate 25, the author has sought an artistic treatment of straight lines. The construction of this furniture as directed will no doubt give lasting satis- faction in any home. The china cabinet will require the fol- lowing pieces (plain white oak or quarter- sawed oak) planed and sandpapered, from the mill : Four posts— l%xl%x56% incheSo One top— %xl9V2x43 inches. The Door Two vertical pieces— %x3x46V2 inches. Two horizontal pieces— %x3x30V2 inches. Three mullion strips— %xl%x42% inch- es. • 235 236 HOME FURNITUKE MAKING The short mullion strips should be or- dered in longer strips, thus: Three horizontal strips— %xl%x30 inch- es. One stretcher (bottom)— %x3i/^x35% inches. For Sides Four vertical pieces— %x3x46y2 inches. Four horizontal pieces— %x3xl0% inch- es. Order two pieces for mullion strips— one for each side. Two strips— %xl%x32 inches. Two stretchers (bottom, sides)— %x4% xl5% inches. The Rear Two vertical pieces— %x3x46% inches. One center piece— %x3V2x46% inches. Six pieces (horizontal)— %x3%xl4% inches. Eight panel pieces— %x9xl4 inches. One upper strip — %x3x35% inches. One lower strip— %x3x35% inches. CHINA CLOSET AND BUFFET 237 One stretcher (bottom)— %x3%x35% inches. Three shelves— %xl5y2x35 inches. One bottom shelf— y8xl7x35 inches. The door frame and side frames should be provided with glass. All parts are as- sembled by means of mortise and tenon joints. For the buffet shown in drawing No. 2 order the following material from the mill : Four posts— 2x2x43 inches. Four stretchers— %x2x53 inches. (These are tenoned on the ends, passed through the mortises in the posts and held in place with dowel pins.) Two shelves— %xl7%x49% inches. Two Doors Four vertical pieces— %x2%x23 inches. Four horizontal pieces— %x2V2xllV2 inches. Two panels— %xllxl9 inches. One shelf (beneath drawer) — %xl8%xl9 inches. 238 HOME FURNITURE MAKING Two brackets— % or less x4%x5% inelies. Two pieces, S— %xl8%x23 inches. Drawer: CHINA CLOSET AND BUFFET 239 J. Ah. 240 HOME FURNITURE MAKING Front- % or %x5y2xl8y2 inches. Sides— % or %x5y2xl8% inches. Bear board— %x5xl8% inches. Bottom— %xl7y2xl7y2 inches. The Sides Two pieces, T— %x2xl7% inches. Four pieces— %x3%xl7% inches. Two panel pieces— %xl6y2x21 inches. The Rear One top piece— %x8%x48% inches. Two horizontal pieces— %x3%x42% inches. Two vertical pieces— %x3%x23 inches. One centerpiece (vertical)— %x3%xl7y2 inches. Two panel pieces— %x20xl7 inches. The lines of rear pieces are not shown in the front view, because in so doing the drawing would become confusing and too intricate for amateurs. The explanation for all pieces of the rear, as given above, ought to suffice. Also order one plate rail strip— %xl%x CHINA CLOSET AND BUFFET 241 48^2 inches. About one-half inch has been allowed in all mill orders on every piece of lumber on width and length for waste in planing and sawing. Illustration 17 is a modification of a ** halved'^ splice, but because of its struc- ture is somewhat more effective. Such a method of connecting timber is called a ** beveled '' splice and the cuts are made on a bevel in such a manner that the parts fit accurately when placed together. Illustration 18 is an example of the sim- plest of splices. Amateurs should not mis- construe joints for splices. The difference lies therein that a ** splice" has the connec- tion between two pieces extending in the same direction, as shown in the drawings. It will also be noticeable that each piece connected is a continuation of the other. Any connection between two pieces which come together at an angle, as shown in fore- going articles, and which are therefore con- tinuous, is termed a joint. THE FURNITURE MAKER His name is written on no roll of war With stroke of steel and mighty crash of arms, His sturdy step awakens no alarms And at his shout no face is clouded o 'er With sudden terror or descending tears. He has his triumphs and his victories; But Peace and Progress, Praise and Plenty— these The victories he gathers from the years. His name is written on the blazing hearth. Around the household's cherished in- gleside. Within the first dear cottage of the bride And on the proudest mansion of the earth. His creed is Comfort and his god is Love. About our sweet domestic altars lurk The gentle spirits of his handiwork— These are the scenes he writes his name above. ' 243 244 THE FURNITUKE MAKER These are the scenes that make the monu- ment Of this, the gentle craftsman of the Home. And feet that wander far, and hearts that roam, Shall often come returning penitent To worship at old altars he has made— A mother's rocker or a father's chair— Finding no edifice afar as fair As this the simple product of his trade. Builder of altars in the home and heart, A labor near divinity is yours, Yours is the craftsmanship that most endures, For homes are builded by your honest art. Think not the service humble from your hand. But proudly, gratefully, your toil es- teem— For men no greater service do or dream Than building firesides in a happy land. —Douglas Malloch. (By courte^ of the Furniture Journal.) If a mail can write a better booky preach a better sermon, or make a better mousetrap than his neigh- bor, though he build his house in the woods, the world will make a beaten path to his door.— Ralph Waldo Emerson. X 8s v^' ^^ / (, , k .Oo. r ^ ^^ ^' / 'c r^ V' v** ^.r> .^^ ''/ ^ ' '^/'^v .*45^.' .4' ■'^^ K' # .^:^ "*. .'-^^ » ^ ^ -? 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