'^.^'i' *s»'>^ K. ^. KiN.d^ve;\^% &t to.^ jManu-factiarers ot Office ^ School Furniture, 195 and 197 Wabash Ave., Chicago, 111. A\\ VTork taWj Guaranteed of Best Klln-Drieil Inmber. Samples of work §een in the new Custom Hoase and Cook Co. Court House furnished by this Arm. Wo. 43. IiOTV Curtain. ETo. 498. Library Table. Polygon, Closed. Bank | Office Fittings in elegant styles, and special designs, in all hinds of Hardwoods. Bank Counters, Wood Mantels, Library Fittings, Ladles' Desks, Etc. Opera Chairs. See tlieae chairs in Central Music Hall^ New Academy of Music^ Grand Opera House, Haverly's, and elseixihere They have Hat-rack, Foot-rest, Tilt ing-back. Umbrella and Cane- rest. Settees and Assembly Chairs for Hall and Church Seating School Furniture and Apparatus, such as Blackboards (all kinds) Globes, by far the largest variety in this country. stationary Top, Andrews' Triumpli School Desk, Highest Centennial and Paris Awards. Folding Top. This Deak, irith Folding Lid and Seat, Is the most important improve^ raent of the age in School Desks. Andrews' Lunar Tellurian Globe is the most remarkable and perfect invention ever produced, for showing in addition to Geography, the changes of Season and Causes, Twilight, Phases of the Moon, Eclipses, Tides, etc. Jt shows the revolution of Earth about the Sun ; also, that of Moon around Earth. ANDREWS' PARLOR FOLDING BEDS. Occupy one-fourth the space of the clumsy common beds, hence save room-rent ! All the bedding, pillows and mattress fold out of sight instantly. The improved woven wire mattress goes with each bed, ensuring comfort. Made in form of Book- cases, Dressing-cases, Secre- taries, etc. Parties interested are invited to call and see these beds at our warerooms. Price, from $25 Upward. Biu-r P»at. M:a,dle in SS Styles. Secretary Bed Open. Secretary Bed Closed and Writing Leaf Open. These beds have tli£ most perfect ventila- tion of any bed ever made ; see cut show- ing the bed constantly open to the air when folded. They are on casters and easily roll from one room to another. The main points of ex- cellence in these beds no other beds have, nor can have. When moving, or in case of fire, bed and bedding can be instantly rolled out of the room. THE BEDS ARE Liglit : X^leg'a.iit I Portable I Coiii±t>rta.tole I After six years' trial the demand is unprecedented. See published commendations from many first- i class families in this city and elsev/here. KearView of Folding Bed No. 9. Call aild SfiB TlieHl. Mmfd only by J^., H. AndPCWS & Co., 195 <& 197 Wabash Ave., CHICAGO. THE CHICAGO'S BEST DAILY. All tli8 Seis for TWO CENTS. FIFTY CENTS psrffloiitliliyMaa. THE EMID, Eight Pages. Five Cents. By Mail, $2.00 per Year. Jessup Whitehead, the author of this book, is a regular contributor to this Edition of the Herald. CHICAGO An Eight Page Newspaper for $1. Address THE CHICAGO HERALD, 120 and 122 Fifth-av., Chicago, III. JAMES W. SCOTT, Publisher. American Pastry Cook, $2.00. 3S\X&W^mmtPi Hotel Meat Cocking, $150. (-^UK ^ti.lUUll» Herald Cooking School, a First Glass ''©WCtt aiX^ ilange'' PamilyCook Book, $1.50. ©0011 ^00feB. Address Daily Herald or National Hotel Eepobtee, Chicago, or, order By Jesstjp 'WhitehBAD, through any bookseller. These are called the ' 'Oven and Range" cook books, from the fact that the recipes have been during a period of several years contributed in weekly installments to a copyrighted column of the Caily National Hotel Reporter, headed "Oven and Range Depaetment." This method continued for a long time, while it made it very necessary for the author to test and prove everything before committing it to print, has also made it generally known that the "Oven and Range" recipes are absolutely perfect, and the Hebald Cooking School being composed of the same recipes reduced to small quantities to suit the requirements of famUies, carries the same guarantee of excell- ence by bearing the same stamp — the book is commended to your favor by the repu- tation already earned by its predecessors. The only comprehensible and practical cook books extant. — New York Hotel Mail. " The best receipts for making all sorts of nice dishes ever contributed to the American press." — Boston Saturday Evening Gazette. THE CHICAGO HERALD ■^COOKING! SCHOOLS' _& PRDFESSIQNAL CDDK'S HaDK FDR HDUSEHDLn USE, CONSISTING OF A Sarlas nf Manus for Every nay IVEeals and for Private Entartaln- mants, -w/itli Minute Instructions for making .A Every iirticle Named, OEIGINALLY PUBLISHED IN THE CHICAGO DAILY HERALD. JESSUP WHITEHEAD, Author of the 'Ouen and Range," Hotel Cook Books and "Cooking for Profit' CHICiiG-D iBBa, ' V CFCO, jii^'i 9£> 1883 , , Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S82, by Jessup Whitehead, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. ^ PUBLISHED BT THE AUTHOK At the Office of the Daily National Hotel Beporter, 180 & 182 Washln^on Street, , CHICAGO, LLLS. Eleotkottped BT Blomgken Bkob. & Co. Pbinted and Bound Br John Anderson & Co. 162 and 164 Clark Street, 87 and 89 TrankUn Street, Chicago. Chicago. -^DEniCATIDNi^-. ^^F THE matters herein contained prove useful in book form as we '^ are assured they have already heenl found in their serial puhli- cation, the credit is due to Mr. Jahes W. Scott, publisher of the Chicago Daily Herald, who first admitted me to print before' the Herald's day, and has been constant with generous aid and encour- agement for a task of several j^ears' continuance. THE AUTHOR. •»*l>REFflGE'N- MLL THE BOOKS of this des(tription that have oeen worthy of consid- eration seem to have had a leading motive for their composition, either to introduce foreign modes, to teach new schools of cookery or new extremes of ornamentation, to teach manners, or to put in practice the theories of great chemists and new idea doctors-^Leibig, Graham, the YSgetarians, and others. If a motive can be found for the work in hand, it is to make good cooks; such as are always in demand at good wages. It was commenced in a persistent endeavor of the writer, to break in imtrained assistants to do cooking as it should be done, and the utmost plainness of language and exactness of quantities that were neces- sary in such cases have been preserved as the main requisites to the usefulness of the book. Already, before the appearance of the Goohing School in book form, a sort of wondering surprise had been expressed that fine cooking could be such a plain and easy matter, as if there was an expectation that the mysterious part would begin after awhile; but doubtless the day is past for the most necessary' art of cookery to be hidden and made unintelligible by the use of unknown words and phrases. At least, when the writer wanted assistants to do something in a certain way, he used the kind of language to make them understand. Perhaps that is why this is called a cooking school. In regard to the reliability of the recipes, it would be expressing but little to say they have all been tried, for they have been matters of daily practice for years, and BJOSt of them ha^ve been changed and im- proved until it is believed the highest pitch of excellence has been reached and may always be by those who carefully follow the directions. There is much more in the book than at first may appear, for nothing is repeated and almost every dish — every meat dish and soup at any rate is a model for a number of other articles to be prepared in the same way, for example : there is one real fricassee thickened with eggs, that of frogs ; one stew with wine, that of terrapin ; one bird pie with brown gravy, one with common stew gravy; one example of a blanquette or white dish, the supreme of fowl, and so it will be found all through. There has been a special avoidance of the terrible "or" of most cook books, which invariably leads off to different persons' ways of doing the same thing and to the inquirer who docs know something when she has read the first recipe, ending by knowing nothing after perusing them all. Where there are more ways than one, one of them must be the best, and the author of a cook book should be able to say which it is. As to the menus, the writer has never during an extended experi • ence found it practicable or desirable to follow a pattern bill-of-fare in every particular, there are too many reasons for changing the intentions ; either there is something in the house that must be used, or the dealer who supplies the house has not the particular article on hand or some- thing else is in the way, so that, at best, a pattern menu can only serve as a suggestion of dishes to choose from. As nothing is repeated in the lists of available dishes here presented, the number of changes and substitutions that can be made will be found very considerable. THE HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. This hungry man's delight which we have be- fore US is the New England Boiled Dinner. H is much more pleasant to treat of a thing as the very article than to iiave it appear vaguely as one of the indefinite number and variety of boiled dinners. It gives one a sense of possession. Doubtless there were in the long ago other boiled dinners, but they lacked the staying quality, and were incomplete in some important particulars; this has come down the stream from the grauite hills liice a rock in a river, jostled and chipped and woru smooth and rounded up into an entity with a name just like a boulder. It would be interesting to inquire how comes it just this, neither more nor less, a rounded up dishful, symmetrical in its proportions, passing current in the market of meals over the city counters as a pumpkin or melon or cabbage head in the vegetable ma;'ket, although made up of parts. Suppose it to have originated where the soil was thin, where the potatoes were small and few in a hill, and had to battle with the stones to grow at all, and the parsnips and carrots found no place to push their long roots down and so gave it up and stopped short : where the vege- tables were habitually small and could be crowd- ed many in a dish ; where the pork had always two streaks of lean to one of fat, and the beef only appeared when a neighbor killed and lent a quarter till the other neighbor should kill and pay it back, what preservative principle has enabled the New England Boiled Dinner to keep itself together through all the changes encoun- tered while spreading over this great country? Why did it not lose one thing here, and another there and get mixed up and obliterated? How did it get over the difficulties in the rich valleys of the West when it found the vegetables growing to enormous sizes and the corn-fed beef and pork all fat? How often must there have been spoonfuls of succotash or of beans, or a sec- tion of squash or pumpkin, or peas or corn sur- reptitiously crowded into the dish? Why did they not remain? How did the New England Boiied Dinner get rid of them and come out clean as we see it to-day? And having passed through so much, how much more could it endure and come out intact? In going South how much of an addition of corn, peas, butter beans, rice, and sweet potatoes can it bear and still be itself? In going down the Pacific, at what degree of mixture with water and Chili pepper will it cease to be itself aud become Mb.x.- ican stew ? "Take away my first, take away my second, take away my all, and I am still the same," says the riddle, but can the New England Boiled Dinner say the same ? Let us take it apart and see what it is composed of. How many of its parts, if any, could be lopped off before it would cease to be? MENU NO. I— DINNER. 1— New England Boiled Oinnei' Consists of: 2 portions of corned beef. 1 portion of salt pork 1 portion of cabbage 1 potato. 1 parsnip. 1 carrot. 1 turnip. 1 onion. 1 beet. For five persons the average required will be two pounds of corned beef (raw weight) and one half-pound of pork. Wash the beef in plenty of cold water and put it on in cold water to cook. Shave off whatever of the outside of the pork you would not like in soup, and boil the pork with the beef, but for a much shorter time. Cut the vegetables in pieces and cook each kind separately if practicable; the beets at any rate must be kept apart, and the cabbage should be drained of the first water and finished boiling in a second or with the meat. Pare the potatoes before cooking, steam them and serve them whole. When all are done place all the vegetables in sections to themselves on a large platter, slice the beef and pork and lay on the top and send to table hot. To cook' such a dish as that properly is mora of a triumph of common sense than of skill. Had the New England Boiled Dinner been left to depend for its preservation upon us, the very fine cooks, it would have perished and been for- gotten long ago, for through the division of labor in large houses it often occurs that the cook who makes the compounds knows nothing about the plain vegetables. So the boiled dinner that has CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. survived so much would have come up with the oorued beef half done and tough enough to spring off the dish — for the corned pieces nine times out of ten are such as would not do to roast or broil— and the pork would be too soft to slice. The potatoes tliat will steam in thirty minutes would be spoiled while waiting for the carrots, which take two hours, or the parsnips and onions, which require one hour and a half, or the turnips, one hour, or the cabbage, which one day may cook soft in twenty minutes and an- other day take an hour or more — owing to the kind and the season of the year. The corned beef generally requires three hours boiling to make it good, depending, however, upon the quaUty and size of the beef. It willbe seen from the above examples that to cook by boiling a good deal of head work is nec- essary, if not much skill. It is not a sort of knowledge that will come of itself, as a knowl- edge of broiling might. Somebody has observed that Homer in all his writmgs never once men- tions boiling as a mode of cooking, although he describes a number of feasts and in one place has Achilles doing the broihng for a party of Kings, his guests. So it is inferred that boiled dinners were at that time unknown. People were not wise enous;h. The most difficult vegetable we have to over- come by boiling is the beet, and because it takes a long time its luck is, generally, to be left un- covered and neaxiy boiled dry, open to the ai r with neither steam nor water, and somebody goes about fuming because there is no end to the boiling. The time can be reduced one-half by covering with a tight lid. A subscriber writes to an editor asking if it be true that certain articles take longer to boil, or cannot be boiled at all, at great elevations, and is answered in the affirma- tive, and instances quoted from the Baron Von Humboldt, who could not cook potatoes on the top of a certain mountain range. But it should be ob- served the experiments only referred to the low boiling point of water in open vessels, and took no account of confined and superheated steam. In point of fact, the people who live in very ele- vated localities find very little difference in the time required for cooking any article over lower elevations, provided they keep the lid on the ket- tle. The liquor in which corned beef and salt pork has been boiled may not be very commendable as stock to make soup out of, yet it may be so available in some oases if not too salt. The meat loses from a fourth to a third of its weight in boiling, and a portion of the loss is prevented when the liquor can be put to use. If not for that purpose, let it become cold for the fat to be taken off for use in frying. 2.— Apple Duinplings Cooked in Sauce. First make the short paste with one pound of flour — a heaping quart after sifting — four ounces of shortening, a rounded-up cupful of minced suet, or a level cup of cold butter or lard, one cupful of water, salt. Keep out a handful of flour to dust with. Rub the lard into the flour dry till thoroughly mixed. Put in the salt and all the water ; work it up to a smooth caste ; roll it out once on the table like pie paste; fold it in three and it is ready for use. The water should always be poured into a hollow in the middle of the flour when making any kind of paste, and the flour drawn in gradually while stirring, other- wise the paste may be rough and lumpy, and much working to correct the fault will make it hard. The above is the kind and quality of paste used in most of the bakeries for pies; it is the universally useful sort. DumpUngs made of it do not break when boiled in water. But while the top of the range is occupied with the boiled dinner the empty oven will do for the dumplings. Half fill a bright tin pan with milk and water and set it in the oven to boil. Pare and core small bui good and easy cooking apples. Roll out the paste in one large sheet, put an apple un- der and close and pinch off the paste underneath the apple — quickest way — and cook the dump- lings in the pan. They take about half an hour. Brush a sheet of paper over with melted drip- pings and lay it on top to keep the dumplings from baking at first, and take it off, baste and brown them when nearly done. Add sugar and a little butter and nutmeg to the liquor in the pan; strain and use it for sauce. I know a gentleman who, both for his own gratification and to perpetuate the custom of his father, always orders his apple dumplings when made as above, brought to him on a soup plate, and all it will hold. That is why there is no par- ticular number of apples specified. 3 — Tapioca Jelly with Cream. 13»2 pints of water — S large cupfuls. 3 ounces of pearl tapioca — J.^ teacupful. (i ounces of sugar — a teacupfuL l-^ a lemon. StBep the tapioca in one cupful of the water for two hours. The water is to be cold when added, but the bowl may be set in a warm place. Then boil the other two cups of water with the sugar in it; cut the lemon rind, or part of it, into shreds and throw it in and add the juice. Stir in the steeped tapioca, and let cook at the side of CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. the range till transparent — about twenty min- utes. May be colored with burnt sugar or cran- berry syrup. Set in wetted cups or a mold. Serve cold, with sweetened cream. The rough tapioca can be used as well, but should be crushed by rolling. 4— Sugar Cakes or Cookies. 1 cupful of sugar — 8 ounces. J^ cupful of butter — 4 ounces. Seggs 3^ cupful of milk. 2 teaspoonf uls of baking powder. 1 pound of flour. Mix in the order as prmted. Sif i sugar over before cutting out. 5— Cup aid Spoon Measurp. There can be very little good cooking without exact measures and weights If scales accurate enough to weigh by ounces cannjt be had it is possible to get along and do fine work even by just finding a cup or tumbler that holds }^ pint and then learning how much a cup of each arti- cle is in weight. A teacupful when it may occur in this book means something less than a cup. A CUP is a }{ pint coffee cup. Water — A cup is }^ pint, which is 8 ounces. Milk — Same as water, vinegar the same. MoLA SEs — A cup weighs 12 ounces. Sugar — A rounded oup is 8 ounces. Butter — A pressed-in oup, or melted, is 7 ounces. Flour — A level cup is 4 ounces, heaped 6 ounces. Suet — Minced fine, a cup is 4 ounces. Laed — A cup is 7 ounces, pressed or melted. Raisins — A heaped cup, without stems, is 8 ounces. A quart is a pouud. Currants — A heaped cup is 6 ounces. Eggs — A cup of raw egg is .5 egsts. TOLKS — A cup holds lo raw yolks. Whites — A cup holds 9 raw whites. Whole Eggs— 10 average a pound. Rice — A oup of raw rice is 7 ounces. Ground Coffee — A heaping cup is 4 ounces. Tea — A"heaping cup is 2 ounces. A Basting SPOON holds 4 tablespoonfuls; it holds 2 ounces of molasses, or 1 ounce of melted butter or lard. A Tablespoon holds 1 ounce, heaped, of sugar, flour, starch, rice, barley, sago, corn-meal; or }^ ounce of ground coffee. Fourteen tablespoon- fuls are i^ pint or cup. liquid measure. A Teaspoonful is half as much as a table- spoonful ; it is J^ ounce of many articles ; a tea- spoonful of tea is J| ounce; of ground coffee ^ ounce. Size of an egg of butter or lard is anything from 1 to 3 ounces. Oysters — A cup is 1 dozen selects or 2 dozen small ; 4 cups are a quart. A can of oysters contains from 3 to i}{ dozen. Apples average i to a pound. Potatoes — Average 6 to a pound; they lose from one-third to one-half their weight by par- ing raw, but only 15 pounds out of 100 if cooked and peeled afterwards. Potatoes — 2, as usually served with a meal, cost less than J^ cent. Coffee— To the gallon }{ pound is the usual allowance; 1 tablespooiiful makes a good cup. Tea — To the gallon 3^ pound is the usual al- lowance; 1 teaspoonful makes a good cup. Sugar — 3 teaspoonfuls sweetens J^ pint; al- low a pound to a gallon of coffee or tea. The cheapest dishes that are good as well as cheap are Irish stew, soup, macaroni, potpies, apple dumplings. The dearest are fried meats. MENU NO. n.— SUPPER. 6-Cratked Wheat, Musli anil Milk. 8 cupfuls of water. 1 cupful of cracked wheat, large. 1 teaspoonful of salt Use a flat-bottomed, bright iron saucepan. Brush the inside with the least possible amount of melted lard. This reduces the tendency to burn and lessens the waste. Let the water boil and stir in the wheat and salt, and after a few minutes' boiling again push the saucepan to the back of the stove and let it eiraraer with the steam shut in for three honre. Peopje who re- member to do everything at the right time steep the wheat before cooking. It is not the wheat itself that burns on the bot- tom, but the dust or flour in it that has nothing else to do but sink and stick and burn even be- fore the water gets into motion by boiling. Wash the wheat in two waters as you would rice to get rid of the fine dust, and it will not scorch. An- other expedient is to set the saucepan on a brick when the top of the range is too hot Cracked wheat mush is served in a bowl by itself, and another bowl containing cream, set in a plate. Most people in Chicago are familiar with the appearance of the kind of rolls shown in the cut, for they are made in vast quantities and in great perfection at some of the city bakeries, where they are generally called cream rolls, but made of varying degrees of richness they are known the country over as French rolls, or Parker House, or by bakers generally as split rolls, be- cause they part open in the middle. The parting can be caused in any shape or kind of bread by brushing the dough where it is doubled together with a touch of melted lard or butter, no matter CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. how little. Plaiu rolls placed close together in the pans will part clean and even wherever they are so greased between. 7- French Rolls. For fifteen and tweutv rolls take 1 coffeecupful of milk or water. \i cupful of potato yeast. 1 egg ov the yolk only. 3 tablespoonfula of melted butter. 1 tablespoonful of sugar. 1 teaspoonful of salt. IM pounds of flour — 6 cupf uls. Sift the flour into a pan, make a hollow in the middle, mix the yeast and water together and pour them in through a strainer. Throw in the sugar, salt, egg and melted butter; stir around till half the flour is taken in, and then beat the batter thoroughly. Draw in the rest of the flour, beating all the while, and then scrape out the pan and knead the dough smooth on the table. Brush the inside of the pan with the least poasi- ble amount of melted lard, and when the lump of dough is put back in it brush over the top of that likewise. This prevents a crust forming on the dough, and prevents sticking to the pan. Cover with a cloth and set in a moderately warm place to rise. The dough should be made at 8 or 9 in the morning. The milk or water should be milk- warm, but must not be hot enough to kill the yeast. In the city almost everybody uses com- pressed yeast and one cake dissolved in half a cup of water will be the same as the potato yeast called for. In the country the home-made or else the yeast cakes have to be used. One of the great city bakers told me the other day in a half confidential way, not knowing that I under- stood the business, that the best potato yeast started with baker's stock yeast is far better than the compressed, and he always keeps a little on hand, though the bulk of his bread is made with the compressed. The trouble in buying baker's yeast is they water it too much, and nearly all yeast and no water has to be used to raise rolls quick and well. At 2 o'clock knead the dough on the table again for a few minutes; then put it back in the pan to rise a second time. At 4 knead it once more and make it into rolls. It makes the great- est difference in the quality of bread and rolls how the dough is kneaded. If you make it up in a round ball on the table and keep pressing it under the wrists, breaking it and pulling it over, it will make poor bread, short and crumbly and mealy, and not sweet ealhig. The right way, and really the greatest point in bread mak.ng, is to press out the dough flat with the knuckles, then double it and press out again, and so on for several minutes. The best city bakeries sell a yellow twisted shape of sweetened bread, a rusk or coffee cake, that can be pulled apart almost in strings, and it is made so solely by the way of working the dough above recommended. The dough, having been sufficiently kneaded, roll it up in round balls, roll a depression across in the middle with a round stick like a piece of new broom handle, brash over in the hollow with a touch of melted lard or tratter, double over the two sides together, prena down nearly flat, place the rolls diagonally in a baking pan, not touching each other, brush over the tops and set them to rise nearly an hour, then bake in a hot oven about ten minutes. Brush over with clear water when they come out, and cover them with a white cloth till served. The preceding constitutes the programme of bread-making, and will serve for reference for numerous fancy breads to come. In warm weather the safer way is to set sponge (make bat- ter) first, and add the enriching ingredients and the rest of the flour at the 2 o'clocK working. It is safer as a precaution against souring or over- fermentation. 8— RechauftB of Beef, Muttan or Veal. 1 large cupful of meat cut in dice. IJ^ cupfuls of raw potatoes same way. 1 small onion cut or chopped. Butter size of a walnut. 1 teaspoonful of salt and half as much pepper. Parsley, and flour to thickea Nothing is better for this than cold corned beef, and it should be one-fourth fat. Whatever the meat may be, shave off whatever of the outside CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. looks black or torn that the dice shapes may be even and not discolored. Set the meat on two hours before the meal, with "water enough to cover it, and let it simmer an hour. Then add the onion, pepper and salt, and the potatoes. Cook half an hour longer and throw in the butter and a little chopped parsley. It is best when two or three turns of a spoon amongst the potatoes thickens it sufticiently, otherwise a heaping teaspoonful of flour worked up with the butter can be added. A Dish of Cold Meat Looks very much more inviting when the meat is thinly sliced, with a knife that is ground more than once a year, and laid in neat order on a plat- ter with a few sprigs of parsley or cress, and a dish of beets in vinegar set near than when the misshapen lump is set on the table as it is, for some one to carve in pain and tribulation. 9— Potato Salad Plain. A pint bowl of cooked and sliced potatoes. 1 small onion, sliced or chopped. % cupful of vinegar. Parsley, salt, pepper. 1 tablespoonful of salad oil, or of fried bacon fat. Jlix all together by pouring from one bowl to another and shaking up. 10 — A licsson in Braising:. Braising is a little process in cookery that is but little known — by that name — but without understanding it it is impossible to be a very good cook. But many an old Virginia black a.unty, and many another in the places where open fire places prevail, bakes something that has a wonderfully savory smell while cooking and delicious juciness when done in her old- fashioned oven or skillet, or whatever it is on the hearth with a lid and coals on top of it, without ever dreaming that she is carrying on the process of braisiug, one of the chief methods of French cookery, and in a manner more success- ful through her constant practice than the imita- tion done on top of a range can generally be. Braise is still very often spelt braize. It is from i the name of the vessel formerly used, a brazier, | having hot coals on top as well as underneath. An article so cooked is described in French menus aa "braise," with an accent on the e, but whether in that form or as "braised" there are few commonly-appearing words that are so little understood. The English substitutes used are "potted" and "smothered," which, however, are not equivalents and not of single meaning. We are particular in trying to lay this down plainly, because any one who is familiar with the tradi- tions of that savory home cooking that mnde the ■urjiey or duck or suckling pig, or Dinah's 'coon or 'possum with sweet potatoes browning alongside of it, that cooking that was done in the oven on the hearth, with coals under and on top, and that has always been declared to beat any- thing the city cooks ever do, now knows better what we are trying to do when we set about "braising," in one minute, than if they had fol- lowed us through the possible mystifications of French cooks' terms for months. It may aa well be stated at once that there is no method that is good that the masters of French cookery have not adopted, and where possible improved upon, and they have made the best possible use of this method of cooking with the steam shut in and little or no water, simmering the meat in its own gravy and fat, keeping the outside soft and free from crust and discoloration, even while gettmg it shining brown. And not content only to make the meat tender), for the toughest goose even can be dissolved into soup meat by this way of cooking), they delighted to change the flavors of the meats and make them seem like something else Ijy adding large proportions of vegetables and an undue allowance of spices. The great use of braising with us ia to mako the tough and dry and undesirable pieces of meat or fowl or game tender and even delicious eating by slow cookmg in little more liquor than their own gravy. And we shall do well, if we would please the taste of the generality of neople, not to throw into the skillet or oven the multifarious seasonings of the French style, but to follow the home practice of only an onion, pepper and salt, and perhaps a few sprigs of garden herbs. MENU NO. III.— BREAKFAST. 11— Braised Beef Rolls and Mashed Potatoes. People who buy round steaks of the butchers find over half of it tender and juicy, fit for broil- ing; but there is a tough side, the smaller half of the steak, that it ia difiicult to serve acceptably. Take such pieces and split them thinner, lay- ing the meat on the board, the hand on top of It, and cutting through the flat way with a sharp knife. Sprinkle over these thin slices a little minced onion and a plentiful seasoning of pepper. The salt goes in the saucepan, for a good reason. Then roll up the pieces like thick sausages. They will do without tying if held down in the saucepan by a plate resting on them, but it ia neater to tie with thread and take off the thread when they are done. Lay the bits of fat or suet or a thin slice of salt pork on the bottom of the .saucepan and place the beef rolls on that ; add about a teaspoonful of salt, and, if liked, a piece of tiirnip and three or four grains of allspice oru little thyme. Grease with drippings a round piece of paper and lay that on top of the meat, pour in a cupful or two of broth or water, 10 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. put on the lid and cook very slowly for about two hours. The particular differeuce between braising and boiling ia that in braising there is never enough liquor to allow the meat to rise and tumble about ; the cooking is done by slow simmering at the' back of the range or set on bricks, or possibly, still covered with paper and lid in the oven, and the essence is always ready to be quickly con- verted into gravy. When the meat is done ten- der, the water all evaporated, the grease clear and the gravy o( the meat aduering to the sauce- pan bottom, before it gets too dark to taste well, take otit the rolls, pour the fat into your jar of drippings, put a cup of water into the saucepan and let it boil up ; thicken and strain for gravy, to be poured over the meat rolls at last. That is braizing. In some places whole hams are braized iu a gallon of wine in the same way and the condensed wine and meat juice at the last becomes the sauce. We cannot, with our stove or rauge to cook on, put the hot coals on top of the brazier and cannot in that way bake the rick brown on top that comes after the water has dried out by boiling, but the same effect is obtained by I'olUng the meats over on the brown- ing gravy at the bottom. And if a suitable pot and lid be at command the watching and trouble of this method ia considerably lessened by setting it inside the oven and letting the pro- cess go on at a moderate heat or with the oven door open. Supposing our beef roll to have been done in that way, to dish up jjlace some mashed potatoes on a family platter, smooth over, lay the beef rolls crosswise on top and press them down a little and pour part of the gravy over alk Articles that need all the time in the morning to cook should be made ready over night and the fragments of that day's provisions so cleaned up and put to use. 13— Fried Corn or Mock Oysters. 1 pint of green corn or X can. 1 egg- 1 tablespoonful of melted butter. Salt and pepper to taste. Take half a can or less of the corn that is solid packed and pasty, and mash h in a pan to make it imitate the green corn when it is grated, mix in the other Ingredients. Have a f rymg pan ready, hot, with a httle drippings, lard or Ijutter in it, shape up the corn with a tablespoon, drop in the pan and flatten down and fry on both sides. The grated fresh corn has the closestresemblance to the oyster taste. 13— Graham MiifiHns Raised with Yeast. 8 ounces of graham flour — 3 cupfuls. 4 ounces of white flour — 1 cupful. 1 J^ cupfuls of liquor — milk and yeast mixed. 1 tablespoonful of molasses. 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 1 egg. Salt J^ teaspooQful. Mix these things together over night; they make a stiff batter The milk should be luke- warm when the yeast is mixed with it, not hot Beat the mixture a minute or two. Scrape down the sides of the pan, smooth over the top with the back of a spoon, dipped in melted lard to pre- vent a crust drying on the top, then set the bat- ter in a moderately warm place to rise. In the morning beat up again, put iu greased gem pans or muffin rings, rise half an hour, and bake. But if you have Graham bread dough already made — plain dough for loaves, we mean — and wish to make some mnffiins for breakfast of part of it, use these proportions. 14^Graham M-iiffins Made with Li;rht Dough. 1 pound of dough, already light. 2 tablespoonsful of butter, melted. 1 tablespoonful of molasses. }4 cupful of warm milk. 1 egg or 3 yolks. Salt. Put the piece of dough in a pan with all the other ingredients and set them in a moderately warm place awhile, then mix well together and beat the mixture several mmutes. Half fill greased mufSn rings with the batter, let rise till the rings are full, and bake about eight minutes. Brush over with a little hot water and butter when done. Make ten to fifteen, according to size. 15— Rice Batter Calces. 1 heaping pint of dry cooked rice. 1 lai'ge cupful of milk or water. () ounces of flour — 3 level cupfuls. 2 eggs (or 5 yolks for best quality). 2 tablespoonfuls of syrup. 1 teaspoonful of baking powder. Salt. The amount of rice to be cooked specially fur this is one teacupf ul, boiled in a pint of water, with the steam shut in. If ready cooked cold rice, warm the milk and mash the rice with it free from lumps, adding flour at the same time. Then mix in the other ingredients ; the eggs well beaten first Bake on a griddle, Butter- milk and soda can be used instead of the powder and sweet milk. 16— Best Uoiighnuts, Yoast-Raised. 3 pounds of light bread dough. i ounces of sugar or syrup — }>{ cupfuL legg. 4 tablespoonfuls of melted lard. Lard or other fat to fry in. Put the lump of dough in a pan and the other in- gredients with it, and set them iu a warm place. When aU warmed and the dough light, work them CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 11 all together. Let staud half an hour longer, then it can be beaten sraooth and a handful of flour added to make it soft dough. Let it Btand to rise four hours if in the day time, but if the dough is made at night with a piece of the roll dough left over from the supper breads it should be left all night to rise and be fried next morning. Knead by pressing out and folding over a few- times, roll out to a thin sheet, brush all over with the least possible melted lard and then cut out ring shapes. Place these on pans to rise half an hour, then drop them in hot lard to fry. They cook quicker than the kind made with pow- der or with buttermilk and are much larger for their weight. Should not be allowed to get too light in the pans, as that is one reason why doughnuts soak up fat instead of coming out di'y and wholesome. It is necessary to be strict about the weight of sugar, not to get too much, for that makes them fry too dark and be doughy eating and greasy. 17— Ginger 12 ounces of white sugar. 8 ounces of butter. 3 eggs. 1 small cupful of milk. 2 ounces of ground ginger. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 1)4 pounds of flour, or enough to roll out. Warm the butter and sugar and stir to a cream. Add the eggs, then the milk slightly warmed, then the ginger and powder and the most of the flour. Work the dough on the table by pressing it together with the flat hands. To be perfect the cakes mustbe cut out of the dough as soft as it can be handled. When the sheet of dough is rolled out sift granulated sugar all over and run the rolling-pin over it. Cut out and bake carefully. We shall present recipes for making many richer articles, but the two just preceding are the very best possible for their kind and degree. But we all know that there is a knack to be ac- quired in working any kind of dough that makes one person's cookies or doughnuts very much better than another's made by the same recipe. The light dough miist be really light and lively, not sour, not too much fermented, and the frying fat sweet, not tasting of onions, etc. The ginger cookies will run out of shape with too much baking powder, or be as hard as pieces of crockery with too much- flour and sugar. 18~About Soup Stock Management. A really good cook does not know how to get along without a stock boiler or something that serves for one, it is such a help toward good cooking, and makes the work easier. There may be times wh«n bouillon or some other clear soup is to be served in cups at luncheon that special kinds of meat will be chosen to make it with. Ordinarily, we have come to believe any directions that may be given to use a rabbit, a chicken, a piece of veal and a sample of all the rest of the butcher's stock do no good whatever and the domestic cook goes on serenely making a very passable soup with a broken marrowbone and a handful of rough cut or chopped vegetables, and thinks it no detriment if a little of the marrow fat still floats on the top. That is all right, only instead of one kind of soup always, we are going to make a good many. Where the best manage- ment prevails and the work goes on like ma- chinery, one wheel within another, there is a regular time of day to set the stock boiler on, it may be in the evening to simmer till the last, and then the liquor strained off is set away till the next day. or it may be early in the morning. The boiler should be larger than the ordinary stove pots. Put into it a gallon of clear, cold water. The meats to be cooked during the day are trimmed of all the tough and gristly ends, such as are sure to be thrown away if fried, broiled or roasted, and all the bones are taken from the meat that can be without detriment to the joint, and these scraps, after washing in clear water, are put into the boiler. Then, if there is a soup bone beside, or a chicken to be boiled, or a leg of mutton it will be so much the richer stock. Some days there will be reason to choose which kind of soup to make, according to the contents of the stock boiler, which is a more economical way to look at it than if the boiler was to be fur- nished to suit the soup. A cream soup, for ex- ample, may be made when the stock is thin, and when it is rich as jelly make beef gravy soup or mock turtle. The available meat being in next, throw in a little vegetable seasoning, such as a small onion and piece of turnip and carrot. But these are not indispensable for the soup will be seasoned afterwards. Let the boiler heat slowly and when at last it boils, skim carefully two or three times, put the lid on and let simmer 4 or 5 hours, when there will probably be 2 quarts of rich stock ready when strained, to he used in soup or to make gravies and sauces. The strainer fine enough for ordinary use is made of perforated tin, or a pan with a perfor- ated tin bottom. Strike the edge of the pan rapidly to make the soup go through. MENU NO. IV.— DINNER. 19— Celery Cream Soup. 3 p-ints of soup stock. 1 pint of rich milk. Outside stalks of celery, about 4. 12 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 1 small onion, minced. Small piece of lean cooked ham. 1 tablespoonf ul of flour. Butter size of an egg. Salt and white pepper. Boil the soup stock with the onion and scrap of ham in it for flavor. Cut up the celery — about enough to fill a large cup — in dice shapes, and boil it ten minutes in water; then strain the water away. Mix the butter and flour together, and stir them into the boiling stock to thicken it slightly, then strain it into another saucepan and put in the parboiled celery and the pint of milk. Season with pepper and salt to taste. Let it simmer ten minutes or more after the celery is in. Mince a piece of green leaf of celery very fine, and sprinkle it from a knife point into the soup. This makes six or seven plates. Butter and flour for thickening is the orthodox article (roux), but should the butter fail to arrive punctually at the time the flour can be mixed with a little water instead. The stock used should have been skimmed free from fat, if not the soup must be. 30— Boiled Salmon Steak. Boil a pint of broth or water with a small piece of celery in it and half a handful of parsley, pepper and salt to season, and a gill of white wine Cut the salmon steaks in suitable pieces, and put the fragments and bone in the boiling liquor Place the salmon pieces in a shallow, bright saucepan, strain the seasoned broth over them and cook by brisk boiling, with a lid or plate on top, eight or ten minutes. Serve in a deep dish or tureen, with the remaining liquor instead of a sauce. To be eaten with bread and butter. The merit of this dish is in the full preserva- tion of the flavor and richness of the fish. A tablespoonful of vinegar may be used instead of the wme. 21— Hollandaise Potatoes. Generally served with fish on the same small plate. The name is derived from the sauce hol- landaise. The potatoes should be cut all mto one neat shape before cooking. There are potato spoons or scoops sold that cut out marbles or boulettes, and the remainder of the potato does to steam and mash. Another way is to cut cores out of the potatoes with an apple corer, or even with a tin funnel, and cut these across in pieces Uke lozenges. PerhajDS a large cupful of these will be enough. The remaining alternative is to cut the potatoes in large dice. Set the potatoes on the range in cold water with a little salt in. Boil very gently about twenty minutes, taking care lest they break and boil away, then pour off the hot water and let them cool and dry a little, and when to be served pour over them a cupful of hoUandaise sauce. Sprinkle a little pinch of chopped parsley over the top. 23— HoUandaise Sauce, English Way. For fish, cauliflower, asparagus and any vege- tables. It is golden yellow, shining and smooth, just thick enough to be taken up on the point of a knife, if for fish, but needs to be thinner for vegetable dressing. }4 cupful of broth, milk or water. 4 ounces of butter — a teacupful. 4 yolks of eggs. 1 lemon — juice only. Peppercorns, nutmeg, salt. Boil the broth with the peppercorns— about a dozen— in it and a scrap of broken nutmeg and level teaapoonful of salt. When flavored strain the broth into another saucepan or a tin cup. Put in two-thirds of the butter and the 4 yolks and beat it with a fork over the fire until it thickens like cream. Then take it off and beat in the rest of the butter in Utile bits, still beating until all is melted. Then squeeze in the lemon juice, or use vinegar for a substitute. The sauce must never fairly boil, only just begin to. There is a moment, about a minute after the cup is set on the fire, that the sauce is at its thickest degree, like softened butter. After that a separation or curdling takes place, not very plain to the eye, but that makes the sauce thin and spoils it. 33— Koast Chicken— Oyster Oressins:- In order to know how long to cook a fowl it is necessary to know something about the age of it. We hold that skill in cooliery should be skill to equalize provisions, and while the cook should know what things are best and when there should be but little preference for one over an- other from the cook's point of view, it is, given the kind of provisions, what is the best method to apply to make the best of itV The best fowls f cr roasting are nearly a year old, nearly full grown and fat. When the age cannot be told from the appearance after dress- ing, try if the thumb can be pushed through the skin that stretches between the wing joint and pinion. The ease with which this can be broken is according to the tenderness of the fowl. Singe it and pick over, draw and wash the fowl, cut the neck off short and tie the skin over it, and truss the fowl with the wings Dent over backwards and legs held either by means of a skewer thrust through them and the body or with twine. Previously to which, however, the inside should be filled with stufiing. It is a mistake to press in the stuffing too solid. One object of the stuffing is the absorption into CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 13 it of the gravy of the fowl. Epicures have adopted various expedienta to save and secure these juices, such as placing slices of toast to catch the dri'ppings of birds roasting on the spit, and baking puddings under meat to catch the gravy. Beside that the stuffiing, if not too solid to get hot and give out steam, imparts the flavor of its seasonings to the meat. 24— Oyster Stutfing for Chickens, Etc. 2 doz small oysters and their liquor. 1 cupful of white bread crumbs. 1 cupful of oyster crackers rolled small. 4 ounces of best butter — level teacupful. 1 egg. Salt and pepper mixed, 1 teaspoonful. Melt the butter and pour it over the bread and cracker crumbs in a pan, and then stram the oyster liquor in, add the egg, pepper and salt. Stir up a little to mix but not make it pasty, and then mix in the oysters whole. The above is sufficient for one large fowl or two small ones, or a small turkey or a goose. The admixture of bread and cracker crumbs is not a matter of fancy, but affords a richer flavor than bread alone. The fowl having been prepared, place it in a small pan with some salt strewn over the bottom, and put in the gizzard and heart or any otiier pieces of meat too small to cook alone and a cupful of drippings. Put in a cupful of hot water, lay a greased paper on top of the fowl, set it in the oven and cook about an hour. Then take off the paper and baste the fowl with a little softened butter, which will froth up on the surface and cause it to brown nicely. After the fowl has been taken out pour off all the grease, put water in the pan, boil and thicken, and strain it for gravy. 35— Asparagrus on Toast. Cut off an inch length of the bottom of the bunch of asparagus to make the stalks even and let it remain in a pan of cold water till near din- ner time. To have this vegetable beautifully green it is necessary besides to put into the water it IS boiled in a pinch of soda or of carbonate of ammonia, say about the weight of a pea ; it does harm to have too much. Take the asparagus from the cold straight into the boiling water and let it cook from fifteen to thirty minutes, accord- ing to its thickness and the rate of bailing, and then draining the water, take the twine from the bunch and serve. There should be salt in the water it is boiled in. Make a piece of thin toast for each individual dish. Place the white end of the asparagus on the toast and pour a tableapoonful of melted fresh butter on the green ends on the dish. 36— Sweetbreads Sautes—Milanaise, 3 calves' sweetbreads. 8 ounces of butter. 1 lemon. J^ can of French green peas. Flour and seasoning. First boil the sweetbreads, after washing them in water for an hour, if small, but twice as long if large, and then let them get quite cold, pressed between two dishes. When boiling them it is best to season the water with salt and a dash of split them into two flat halves. Pepper and salt them, roll well in flour, and a little before dinner time melt the half-pound of butter in a large frying-pan and fry the sweetbreads in it brown on both sides. The butter froths in the pan and over the sweetbreads, and they should, if it can be so managed, be sent to the table before it ail subsides. Warm the French peas in a saucepan, place the sweetbreads on a dish and the peas around them and ornament with the lemou cut in quarters. Sweetbreads are the white, fat looking pieces, glands, probably, found near the heart of the an- imal and smaller ones are found at the root of the tongue. While calves' sweetbreads are al- ways to be chosen if choice is given, those of full grown animals are used as well. 37— Macaroni and Cheese— Becliamel. 5 ounces of macaroni, 2 ounces of cheese. 3 ounces of butter. IJ^ pints of milk, or water. 2 eggs. Salt. Parsley, and flour thickening. Boil the macaroni by itself first, throwing it into water that is already boiling and salted. Let it cook only 20 minutes. Then drain it dry and put it into a pan or baking dish holding about three pints. Chop the cheese, not very fine, and mix it with the macaroni, likewise the butter. Beat the two eggs and the pint of water or milk together, pour them on the macaroni and set in the oven to bake. While it is getting hot boil a cup of milk (the remaining half pint of the recipe), and thicken it with a rounded tablespoonf ul of flour mixed up with part of it in a cup, add salt and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and when the macaroni in the oven is set so that the two can- not mix, pour this white cream sauce on top of it, shut up the oven, and let it bake a yellow brown. This makes a very attractive dish, as the yellow cheese and custard boils up in spots among the white sauce and parsley. 14 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 38— Roman Punch. 1 pint of water. 10 ounces of sugar. 1 lemon, juice and rind. 1 orange, juice only. 2 whites of eggs. Few spoonfuls of rum or chablis. Dissolve the sugar in the water, hot ; grate the rind of the lemon — the yellow part only — into a bowl, and squeeze in the juice and that of the or- ange and pour the hot syrup to them. Let stand awhile, then strain into a freezer. Freeze, and when nearly finished whip the two whites and stir them in and beat up well. Add the rum, or the mixture of rum and wine, or the wine substi- tute for rum, at last. Serve in glasses. 39~Mallar(l Duck — Apple Sauce. The mallard is one of the best ducks to roast, being nearly always tender and easy to cook. Epicures say that wild ducks should never be washed, only wiped dry inside and out. That must be as people may please. The mallard, though well flavored, is not so deUcate that wash- ing in cold water could injure it seriously. Besides, we are going to add to it a little flavor of the dressing. 30 — Bread Stuffing: for Oucks and Geese. 1 quart of finely minced bread crumbs. 1 tablespoonful of minced onion. 1 level teaspoonful each or salt, pepper and J^ cupful of warm watei-. }^ cupful of the fat from fried sausage, or of lard. Mis the ingredients all together in a pan, not trying to make the dressing too moist, as it will absorb gravy while baking. The egg should be mixed with the water first. Singe the duck, pick it over, draw, and wash it in cold water, dry it out, and then stuff it Chop off the wings, except the main joints, which tie close to the sides with twine ; also tie down the legs, and bake the duck in a hot oven from thirty to forty minutes. Baste frequently with fat from the pan. It spoils these ducks to put them in an oven that ia nearly cold. All the gravy oozes out. Let them be made hot quickly at first, and slack down afterward. 31— Apple Sauce for Meats. Pare good, npe apples and slice them into a bright saucepan. Add water enough to come up level with the apples and stew with a lid on till done — about thirty minutes. While they are stewing throw in a little butter. Masii at last with the back of a spoon. No sugar. 33-Celery Salad. Chop equal parts of outside stalks of celery — about four — and tender white cabbage together in a chopping bowl, and throw in a green leaf of celery that has been dipped in boiling water to give it all a green color. Mix with the minced celery in a dish a spoonful of vinegar, a little salt, a pinch of sugar, and two or three spoon- fuls of the HoUandaise sauce (No. 23). It makes a rich buttery salad that can be piled on a dish or in individual plates. 33— Queen Frittel-s- Beigrnets Souffles. 3^ pint of water — a coffee cupful. 2 ounces of butter, large — size of a duck's egg. 4 ounces of flour — large cupf uL .5 eggs. Set the water on to boil in a little saucepan and the butter (or lard will do) in it. Stir in the flour all at once and work the paste thus made with a spoon till smooth and well cooked. Take it from the fire and work in the eggs one at a time, beat- ing in one well before adding another, and when all are in beat the mixture thoroughly against the side of the saucepan. Make some lard hot, It will take half a saueepanful. Drop pieces of the batter about as large as eggs and watch them swell and expand in the hot lard and become hollow and light. Only four or five at a time can be fried because they need lots of room. 34— Transparent Sauce for Fritters. 1 cupful of water. 4 ounces of sugar — J^ cup. 1 rounded tablespoonful of corn starch. 14 a lemon. Bit of butter. Boil the water. Mix the starch with the sugar dry and stir them in. Slice the lemon and throw it in, and a speck of butter. Let boil transparent. Pour a large spoonful over each fritter as they are dished up. 35— White Cocoanut Fie. 1 cupful of milk. 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 1 rounded tablespoonful of starch. 2 or 3 ounces of grated cocoanut 3 or 4 whites of eggs. Small piece of butter. Pinch of salt Boil the milk alone. Mix the starch and sugar together dry and stir them in ; then the butter and cocoanut Set it away to get cold. Whip the whites (that were left from making HoUandaise) to a firm froth and mix them with the p le- mixture. Bake in thin crusts of puff paste. Makes two small pies. CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 15 36— Jelly Cake. 8 ounces of granulated sugar. 5 eggs. 4 ounces of butter, melted. ^ cup of milk. 13 ounces of flour. 1 teaspoonful of baking powder. Beat the sugar and eggs together a minute or two, add the melted butter, the milk, the powder and the flour. Bake on jelly-cake pans as thin as it can be spread. Have three sheets and spread jelly between and powdered sugar on top. 37— Pear Salad— Dessert Dish. 5 large mellow pears. 4 tablespoonf uls of powdered sugar. 1 lemon — juice only. 4 tabiespoonfuls of kirschenwasser. Pare ana core the pears and slice them into a glass bowl, squeeze the lemon juice over the slices and cover with the powdered sugar. Keep cold, and when to be served add the wineglassful of kirschenwasser and shake to mix. Serve in glass ice dishes. 38— Coffee Ice Cream. IJ^ pints of cream. J^ pint of coffee. 13 ounces of sugar. Make a cold infusion of coffee by steeping a cupful of coarsely ground Java or Mocha in one and a half cups of cold water and letting it re- main over night in a bottle. Strain off the I'e- quired amount through a napkin previously rinsed in hot water, and mix it with sweetened cream. This is the better way, but a fair article can be made with clear coffee from the breakfast urn. Freeze, and when frozen beat the cream hght with a long wooden spoon. To freeze a quart of cream need be no more than a trifling incident to any dinner, there being a suitable tub to break ice in always ready and a pail of coarse salt. Almost any deep tin vessel will do to freeze so small a quantity in, especially in winter, independently of the cog-wheeled and porcelain-lined arrangements for making ice- cream in large amounts, that present such a bar- rier of expense to the private ice-cream maker. Pound the ice very fine and mix some snow with it. If you have no freezer put the prepared cream in a 3-quart tin pail, set it in the tub or pail of pounded ice and snow, mix about a sixth as much salt in and add cold water tiU the ice- cream pail will go down into the freezing mix- ture. By turning the pail about with one hand and stirring the cream with a long wooden spoon in the other a quart of cream may be frozen in a fev^ minutes. Three kinds and colors for a brick may be frozen with equal ease at the same time, the quantity of each being small. "And what is the use of that?" say some quiz- zical people who are altogether too practical in their ideas ; "does a lamb chop taste any better for being trimmed up so, or are the potal^es any- thing but potatoes because they are in fancy shapes?" We have nothing to say to such people except that there is such a thing as art in cooking as there is art in dress, and it consists likewise partly in cutting and trimming and setting off and fixing up. MENU NO. V— TEA 39— A Dish of I.ainb Cutlets and Toast. Ontly the "rack" or ribs can be used this way with good effect — a reason why the dish of cote- lettes d'agneau is accounted choice above its merits. The' necessary selection makes it dear. Take the rack and cut the chops at home ; few butchers will trim them right. First cut and chop off all the backbone at once. Saw or chop off the ends of the ribs so that all the cutlets will be of one length — but little longer than the mid- dle finger. Then cut through, havmg two rib bones in each chop ; carefully cut out one bone, leaving the double allowance of meat to the other, and trim and scrape the end of that clean for about an iuoh. Then flatten the cutlets with the side of the cleaver, and finally trim off the ragged edges to neat and compact proportions. And now, once for all, we have the lamb cut- lets trimmed the way people like them and ready for cooking. The different accompaniments and sauces for them make the great number of "styles" in which they are served. 40— Plain Broilingr. The obstacles in the way of broiling meat are not really very great in any place where a stove is used. It might be useless to recommend any particular api^liances, for the best contrivance of to-day may soon be superseded by a better in- vention. Our concern is to get a broiling fire, and the first requisite for that is to have a sack of small charcoal in the coal house. About half an hour before the meal take the ashes out of the ashpan and lay in a bed of charcoal. Place a few live coals on it, and cover with something — say an inverted pan — to cause a draft to the fire. Neat and easy broiling requires it, and this is the way that is practiced in the places where it is made a constant business. Have always ready a little flat tin-bound brush, like a varnish brush, but a very cheap kind, in a tin cup with'either nice drippmgs or melted butter in it. Lay the meat to be broiled on a plate and slightly brush 16 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. over both sides. Place them on a wire broiler or the gridiron and cook qtiickly without smoking or burning them. A little coarse salt sprinkled on the charcoal will put out flames and make the fire clear. Never stick a fork into broiling meat, at least not in the lean part that is full of gravy. A lamb chop or cutlet will cook in about the same time that an egg will boil soft. I'or tea one such double chop is usually enough for each person, though it takes five to make a restaurant meal. Cut as many pear-shaped thin shoes of bread as there are cutlets, toast and butter them and set them upon end alternately with the cutlets, one toast and one cutlet, on a large dish, and serve without sauce, except ta- ble sauces, and pickles. 41— Minced Potatoes, Chop cold boiled potatoes small, and season with salt. Spread a spoonful of drippings or butter in a frying pan, and place the minced po- tatoes about an inch deep. Cook on top of the range like a cake, without stirring. Invert a bowl or plate over the potatoes, let them brown nicely and slowly, then turn over on to the plate, set in another plate and serve with the brown side up. 4a— Shrimp Salad. Shred one large head of lettuce as fine as pos- sible with a sharp knife on a board. Pick two dozen large shrimps or rinse a can of shrimps in cold water ; put them in a bowl with two table- spoonfuls of olive oil and the same of vinegar, and shake about to make them look shining and moist Cover a flat dish with the shred lettuce. Pile the shrimps neatly in the middle, and spread over the top, or at least across it so as not to bide the shrimns, some mayonaise dress- ing. Shrimps that are so shaken up with oil will generally keep the shape if pressed a little in a deep dish, and can be turned out in form. 43— German Mayonaise. We are not responsible for the name. That is the name the cooks know it by in distinction from French mayonaise. This has cold white sauce for a base instead of yolk of eggs. It is handiest to make when there is "drawn butter" or butter sauce, or cream sauce left over from a dinner dish. If from the beginning take : 44— Butter Sauce. 1 rounded tablespoonful of flour. About the same of butter. 3^ cupful of boiling water or broth. Salt. Warm the butter in a small, deep saucepan and mix the dry flour with it while on the fire. When hot and bubbling add the broth a little at time and a little salt and let boil up thick. It not per- fectly smooth it must be strained. Let the sauce get cold. Now we have a thick, white sauce, whether left over or made for the purpose. The salad dress- ing is made this way: Drop half a raw egg into the cold sauce and stir around rapidly with a wooden spoon. Add a tablespoonful of salad oil and stir again, then a spoonful of vinegar, then the rest of the egg and more oil and vinegar and a teaspoonful of made mustard and a pinch of cayenne. It is light yel- low, just thin enough to spread over the salad material and not thin enough to run. Por a larger quantity more eggs, oil and vinegar can be stirred into the same beginning indefinitely 46 — French Kusks. 1 pound of light bread dough. 3 ounces of sugar. S ounces of butter. Lemon or vanilla flavoring. 2 yolks of eggs. Small half cup of milk. Plour to make it soft dough. These rusks are more of a simple but showy kind of warm cake than they are breaa. Should only be attempted with the strongest yeast or the lightest dough, because to be really fine and not sticky they must be more than light — spongy, dry, and almost in strings of layers, like French loaves. In short, to make rusks good is a mark of skill in bread-making. They can be made much richer than this recipe — by skillful cooks. If for afternoon tea take the dough at break- fast time and warm it and the butter, sugar and milk (or cream) together by setting in a pan in a warm corner. Then mix them together thor- oughly and add the yolks and beat up thor- oughly, and then the necessary flour to make dough of it. Knead on the table by pressing out and folding over. (See directions for French rolls. No. 5. ) Set the dough in a warm place for 3 hours to rise. Then knead it the second time. Every time the dough is doubled over on itself the edges should be pressed together first. When good and finished it looks silky, and air will snap from the edges when pinched. After this second kneading the dough should stand an nour and then be made into shapes, buns, oblongs, twists, or split rolls notched at the edges with a knife. Rise in the pans an hour and a half longer, then bake in a slow oven about 20 minutes. When done brush over while hot with thick syrup of sugar and water flavored with vanilla. The directions for so many workings of the dough may seem to make this a oomphcated process. In fact, however, each kneading takes CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 17 no longer to perform than it does to write about it. Tlie reason for it is that the oftener dough is kueaded, m moderation, tlie more elastic and better it becomes. The more sugar there is in it, the slower the dough will be to rise, hence the richer sorts are the harder to make good. 46— Cranberry Sauce. Throw a quart of cranberries into a pan of cold water and wash and pick them over. Put them in a bright saucepan. Spread eight ounces of sugar over them, pour in half a cupful of water and simmer at the side of the range with the lid on for about half an hour. Cranberries have the best color when cooked with the sugar in them, though the chemists find some objec- tion through an alleged change in the sugar and loss of sweetness. There is nothing that burns on the bottom quicker than cranberries. They should not be set in a very hot place, and should never be stirred till taken from the Are. The syrup that can be poured from the cranberries before they are stirred up forms the brightest jelly when cold. Allowing that almost anybody can make a plain soup, it is no less true that to make a clear consomme or broth requires skill. The plain bouillon or beef broth served on certain occasions in china cups will serve as an example of the way the clear consommes are made, this being specially of beef, while other kinds may be of veal, chicken, etc. , and have various additions, both farinaceous and vegetable. MENU NO. VI.— RECEPTION. 23^ quarts of soup stock, or broth. 2 or pounds of lean beef. S whites of eggs and clean shells. 1 teaspoontul of black pepper. 2 teaspoonf uls of salt. Chop the beef, after cutting in small pieces, in a chopping bowl till it is like sausage meat Add the salt and pepper, put it in a saucepan, pour in the broth, stir up and set it on to boil, but in a place where it will heat up slowly, and as it boils skim off the scum that will rise on top. It is like beef tea, and may be liept simmei'ing an hour or two if the time allows. Then &train it through a colander first to get out the meat, and through a napkin which may cover the clean saucepan under the colander to clear the bouillon of gravy. Set the bouillon away to get cold, in a pan of ice water, if necessary tohurry it, because when cold every crumb of grease can be taken off in an instant much better than by skimming while hot The remaining operation is to make it abso- lutely clear and bright Beat the whites of eggs and break up the shells into the cold bouillon and boil it again, stirring sometimes to make sure that the white of egg is well cooked and coagulated, and when it has boiled about thirty minutes strain it through a jelly bag or a napkin, two or three times. Keep hot till served. Cooks who become expert through constant practice shorten the above thorough method by mixing the white of eggs with the raw beef and filtering the bouillon once for all straight from the beef into a bowl. This makes the beef use- less for further soup stock purposes, however. In either case the bouillon should be allowed to become cold in order to free it from grease. Perhaps the neat and symmetrical array of a dish of lamb cutlets trimmed up as we had them last week first set somebody wishing that chick- ens could be cut up the same way and led to imi- tations. The croquette of minced chicken made in cutlet shape with a bone pushed into the mince, is only a sham, but real cutlets of partridge, grouse and chicken are made in this way. 48- Chicken Cutlets. Take a chicken and cut off the two legs with all the meat that can be got by cutting close to the carcass, and also cut off the wings with all the breast meat attached. What we have t@ do is to get four pieces off each chicken that shall have a bone in each one to be scraped up like a outlet bone, and plenty of meat at the end of it, the same as a lamb chop. The leg cutlets con- sist of drumstick and second joint; the others have the fillet or breast and the wing bone. Chop off the knobby ends. The bone of the second joint should be loosened from the meat, all the meat pushed to one side of it, and the bone pushed through a hole made in the edge of the meat — all to make it look like a lamb chop — and the ends of all the bones should be scraped clean for about an inch. When all are prepared parboil by dropping the cutlets in boiling water or broth well seasoned. They lose their shape if not so managed. When they have boiled five minutes lay them flat on dishes or pans, put other dishes on top and a heavy weight and let them get quite cold. After that trim and shape them neatly. Dip each cutlet in a little beaten egg and water ; then in cracker meal, and fry in hot lard in a frying-pan, or in a smaller quantity of butter, much the same as the sweetbreads at No. 26. CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 49— Fried Parsley. One of the moat desirable adjuncts to dishes like fried cutlets when they are not served with a sauce. Heat some lard in the potato frier, but not hot enough to smoke, for too much heat takes all the color out of parsley. Put the parsley in the wire basket and immerse it in the hot lard about one minute, when it should be crisp, but still green. Drain it on a sheet of paper and set for a minute in the open oven. 50— Potato Croquettes en Petites Boiiles. The reason why the ordinary mashed potatoes will not do for croquettes is, the milk or water that is mixed with them when mashing, when hot makes thetcroquette melt away in the frying fat. Take 1 pound of pared potatoes. 1 ounce of outter. 1 yolk of egg. Salt and pejjper. Flour to ball up with. Use dry and mealy potatoes. Steam or boil well done, drain, mash and mix in the butter and yolk, and season to taste. No milk or other liquid to be added. Make up, with plenty of flour on the hands, into little balls not larger than walnuts. Make as much flour stick to the croquettes as possible. Put them into the wire basket or potato frier and fry them in hot lard. There is probably no way of making that will prevent potato croquettes from breaking open in the grease if cooked long. Fry them quickly, and take out when they are of a deep yellow color. Drain on a sieve. The chicken cutlets, the parsley and the potato croquettes having been prepared pile the cro- quettes in the middle of a large platter, place the cutlets in order around and decorate with the fried parsley. 51— Lobster Salad. Take the meat of one large lobster and cut it as near as may be in large dice shapes, or at least to uniform size, and keep the reddest pieces in a dish separate. Chop two heads of celery. Par- boil two or three green leaves of celery to make them a deeper green and chop them with the celery likewise to color the whole. Spread a layer of the celery on a flat dish or platter, then the lobster ou that with the red pieces around the edge, where they will show among the green, another layer of chopped celery on top, level over the top surface and pour and spread upon it some mayonaise dressing that is almost thin enough to run. The dressing should be sufiSciently seasoned to season all the rest No single book could contain all the names and variations that are made by different persons combining a few well known compounds in different forms. In our hotel cook book the attempt has been m'ade to familiarize the reader with the principal compounds, pastes, creams, etc., used, in order that he may at once understand the composition of any new article he may meet with, that seeming to be a much more thorough plan of teaching than a gathering of all the possible names into a bulky but uninteresting mass of repetitions. A similar course is being followed in this series, as may be shown in the instance following : The puff paste now to be made is the same that is used for a great number of forms of pies and fancy pastries ; the pastry cream is the same that is used to fill cream puffs, to make lemon cream pies, to serve as sauce to fritters and to spread between layers of other Itinds of cakes, and the glazing is but candy poured very thin, and often is substituted by other kinds of frosting, each change serving to give the article a new name at the fine bakery or in the French menu. 53 — Napoleon Cake. Two sheets of puff paste baked in shallow baking pans. Pastry cream spread between and sugar glaze over the top. Cut in squares and serve on plates. 53-Putr Paste. 1 pound of cold flour, , 15 ounces of cold butter. 1 cupful of ice-water. Get quite ready to mak-e the paste before you begin, that it may be done quickly. It will not, perhaps, be light and good if allowed to stand long in a warm room. Leave out a handful of flour to dust with. Make a hollow in the middle of the rest in a pan, pour in the ice water and mix up gradually with the fingers. Turn the paste on the table, double and press a little to make it smooth. Roll it out to half an inch thickness, pound the butter with a potato masher to make it pliable, drop half of it in lumps all over the sheet of paste, sift a very little flour over, press down the lumps of butter, fold over in three and turn the broad side to- ward you. Roil out again, drop the rest of tne butter as before, fold in three and count that one. EoU out evenly with plenty of flour to prevent sticking, fold over in three and count that two. Do the same four times more, making six folds (beside the first one not counted) and it is ready for use; but let it stand a while. Roll out thin sheets, take them up by winding on the rolling-pm and spread on two baking pans. Bake in a hot oven eight or ten minutes. CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 10 54— rastry Cream. 1 quart of millc. 8 ounces of sugar. - 4 ouncea of flour. 1 ounce of butter. LemoD extract to flayor. Boil the milk witii a little of the sugar iu it to prevent burning. Mix tne rest of the sugar and the Hour together dry, dredge them into the boil- ing milk, beating all the while, and let cook five minutes Throw in the butter and beat the eggs a little and stir in. Put the lid on and let cook at the back of the range about ten minutes longer. Flavor when nearly cold. 55— Plain Sazar Glaze. The simplest is a cupful of granulated sugar and a quarter-cupful of water boiled in a tin cup together to very strong syrup, almost candy. Stir it around about twelve times to partly whiten it, and pour it on top of the cake. It will set when cold, if boiled enough. Sugar dissolved in red fruit juice boiling on the fire makes glaze of the same kin4 colored. Spread the pastry cream over one of the baked sheets of puff paste, place the other on top, and pour and spread the sugar glaze upon it. Cut when cold. 50— Macaroon Cake. Commonly called macaroni cake. A sheet of cake with macaroon paste baked on top and fruit jelly in spots. Fur the cake take 1 pound of sugar. 8 ounces of butter. 6 eggs. 1 small cupful of milk. 1 teaspoonful of baking powder. Flour to roll out — about 3 pounds. Warm the butter and sugar and stir them to- KOther to a cream, add the eggs two at a time, then the milk, then the powder and most of the flour. Work the dough on the table by pressing out and folding it until it can be rolled out to a sheet. EoU it thin, as if for cookies, out to the size of your baking pans, roll up the piece of dough on the rolling-pin and unroll it on the pan, previously well greased. Bake very light col ored and not quite done, because it has to be cooked again. 57— Macaroon Paste. 12 ounces of grated cocoanuti 8 ounces of powdered sugar. 2 whites of eggs. Little lemon extract. Stir the above ingredients together in a bowl, the sugar and whites first and the cocoauut added Place the paste, either with a teasooon or with ft tube and forcing sack, m \oa^ ccrrjt) »pn>s3 tlin sheets of cake, and then diagonally across to form diamond-shaped hollows. The cord of macaro jn paste need be no thicker than a pencil. Then bake in a sla.'k oven with the door open till top is brown. Wiieii cold drop spots of clear fruit jelly in the hullowa between tbe ridges of macaroon naste. 58- .S.ida Water Jellius. 1 quart of water and a cupful over. 1}4 ounces of gelatine. 8 ounces of sugar. 1 large or 3 small lemons. 1 teaspoonful of whole mixed spices. 3 whites of egKS and clean shells. Cooper's sheet gelatine is only half the price of Cox's, and is every whit as good for jellies, and the better because it will not sink and burn. Shave off the rindof one lemon very thin, use the juice of both, careful not to boil any lemon seeds with the rest, and mix these and all the other ingredients named with the cold water. Set on to boil in a place where it will heat slowly, giving the gelatins tinio to dissolve, and beat the mixture with a spoon occasionally. One reason why people have trouble in making jelly of this sort is the diflieulty of gettiug the white of egg in it thoroughly cooked, as it floats on top in the form of scum. If not cuoked hard it runs through the strainer with the jelly and destroys its clearness with a milky appearance. Another thing is, the jolly does not run thiough a jelly bag easily unless there is lemon juice or other acid in it. Table je lies slould be as cleir as glass and as rich colored or they are failures. When the jelly has boiled about half an hour pour it through a flannel jelly hag, made funnel- shaped and suspended by strings, and repeat the running through three or four times. When all has dripped through divide it in cups, flavor with extracts, color delicately with burnt sugar and prepared cochineal, then nearly fill slender wine-glasses with it and set them in a cold place for the jelly to harden. Pour one glassful of jelly into a soup plats and beat it with a lork, beat the white of an egg the same way, mix them together and pile the frothed jelly on top of the glasses and let it like- wise solidify in a cold place. 69— White Citron Cake. H ounces of granulated sugar. 13 ounces of butter. 13 ounces of white of eggs. 1 pound of flour. 1 small lemon. 1.J teacupful of milk. 1 pound of candied citron. Use unoolored dairy butter. Warm the sugar and butter slightly and stir them till white W] creamy, Ailc! tb? esg wbjt?? ft Jittle »t ft 20 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. time and after that the flour. Don't beat the white of the eggs before mixing, but beat the whole mixture thoroughl.y aftyr the ilour is in. Then mix in the grated rind of the lemon and the juice, and last of all the railli. Cut the citron in tine shreds, mix in, and bake the cake in a mold lined with buttered paper. It is not one of the hardest cakes to bake, but should be done in an hour, less or more, accord- ing to thickness. 60— Frosting for Cakes. 1 pound of fine granulated sugar. 6 whites of eggs. Juice of half a lemon. Flavoring. Have the ingredients and the bowl all cold and do the beating in a cold place. Put four of the whites into a deep bowl holding about a quart and all the sugar with them, and beat them to- gether with a wooden paddle rapidly for about fifteen minute.s. Then add one more white and beat till the frosting is again stiff and tenacious — abont five minutes more. Then squeeze in a teaspoonful of lemon juice, which whitens and stiffens the icing, and add flavoring. At last put in the remaining white of egg and beat up only a little, as this last makes the frosting glossy and smooth and with a tendency to settle down evenly ou the cake. Trim the cake a little, cover the hole left by the mold in the middle with a patch of writing paper, and spread and smooth the frosting over the top and sides with a knife. Any icing left over may be baked on pans at a gentle heat, in egg-shaped kisses. Gl— Oranjje Ice. 3 pints of water. 1 pound of sugar. 4, 5 or 6 oranges, according to size. 1 lemon, juice only, if tlie oranges are sweet •t whites of eggs. Make a thick syrup by boiling the sugar with very little water, pull two or tliree of the oranges apart, after peeling, by the natural divisions, and drop the pieces into the boiling syrup, carefully excluding the seeds, however. Grate the yellow zest of the remaining oranges into a bowl and squeeze in the juice; then pour the syrup from the scalded slices into the bowl, and keep the slices on ice, to be mixed iu at last Add the water and lemon juice to the syrux^ in the bowl; strain into a freezer and freeze. When nearly frozen whip the four whites firm; stir them in and beat up the ice till it looks like cream ; cover down and pack with more ice and salt, and when the ice has become firm enough mix in the sugared orange slices gently, without b"eakin£r them. Serve in ice-cups, glasses or MENU NO. VII— GENTLEMEN'S SUPPER. 63— Broiled Porter-house Steak. The cuts show two porter-house steaks ; the upper is the first that is cut, nearest to the ribs of beef, the lower is the last porter-house, and has a piece of the large hip bone. The steaks cut beyond that are the large sirloins. The small lower portions of lean on the left are slices of the tenderloin or fillet, of which every porter-house and also every sirloin steak carries a part. This tenderloin is thinnest near the ribs and thickest in the middle of the sirloin. To make satis- factory sizes of beefsteak of it, the fillet has to be out entire out of the loin of beef, sliced two or three times the ordinary thickness, and then flat- tened and spread by beating with the side of the cleaver. This, it is to be understood, is for a stylish dish of tenderloin steaks, the slice of fillet of the common thickness, or less than an inch, being amply suificient for each person for ordin- ary meals. The porter-house as shown in the cuts is, however, our present order, and is, taking it alt together, more of a favorite than the tender- loin itself. When cut very long and very fat the beefsteak may be shortened and trimmed a little, but it should not be beaten or flattened unless when required to be very well done. Brush over slightly with the butter brush to prevent stick- ing to the bars. Lay it on the sridiron over a clear fire (see No. 40), place a hot, well-polished brick on top and let the steak broil about three minutes. Then put away the brick, turn the steak over without sticking a fork into the lean and let it broil from three to six minutes longer, according to'thickness, and briskness of the fire. When done draw it on to a hot dish without losing the natural gravy that will have collected on top, and dredge with mixed salt and pepper. 63— Fiesli Mushrooms. For an accompaniment to broiled meat the canned button mushrooms bear no comparison in richness with the large, wide-open, fresh mushrooms from the fields At least fifty varie- CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 21 ties of mushrooms are eaten in European coun- tries, and there are kinds that are poisonous. We Itnow but one l:iud and take no riskg on the others. The trne mushroom is of a deUoate pink or flesh color on the imder side when it tirst opens, and darkens to chocolate color and then black, according to the time it continues grow- iug. When such can be obtained cut off most of the stem, peel the top of the mushroom, shake about in cold water to free it from grit or sand and fry (saute) enough of them together in a little butter in a frying pan to touch aud cover the bottom while cooking. They shrink very much, but give out a gravy of the richest description, which should not be allowed to dry up in the pan. Season with pepper and salt. "When the mushrooms are done — in three or four minutes — place them on top of the beefsteak and pour the gravy and but- ter over likewise. Another way, most suitable when the mush- rooms are to form a dish alone, is to place them top downwards on the wire broiler, dredge with salt and pepper, put a small pii^e of butter in each, broil and serve without turning over, as soon as the butter is melted. 64 — Canned Mushrooms in Sauce. About half a can with two beefsteaks. Drain the mushrooms from their liquor and fry (aau;e) them in a small frying pan with a little butter. Add pepper and salt. When they have acquii-ed a slight color draw them to one side of the pan, put in a heaping teaspoonful of flour and rub it smooth in the hot butter, still keeping the pan over the fire, and when the flour has become slightly browned pour in the mushroom liquor gradually and a few spoonfuls of water. Shake in the mushrooms, let all boil up, squeeze in the juice of a quarter of a lemon and pour over the beefsteak in the dish. 65— Frizzed or Shoestring Potatoes. Raw potatoes cut into shreds and fried. The cook is not always to blame for the poor appearance of fried potatoes, there being a great difference in the quality of the potatoes raw. A watery, waxy potato never has the bright ap- pearance and crisp floury taste when fried that a dry potato has, no matter how carefully the fry- ing may be done. Pare your potatoes, slice them thin and cut in shreds anywhere in thickness from a shoestring to a pencil, only all alike, and the longer the better. Throw them into hot frying fat or lard and letfry three or four minutes. The infallible rule to know when fried potatoes are done is this: When first thrown into the fat they sink, when done they rise aud float. After ihsit it is only a question of how much color when they should be taken out. Drain well in a strainer. Dredge fine salt over and a sprinkling of chopped parsley. The porterhouse steak with ranshrooms being ready on a large hot platter, place the frizzed po- tatoes around it on the same dish and serve. 66— Oyser Omelet— For Two or Three. 1 .^ oysters. 4 eggs. 2 large basting spoonfuls of milk. Seasonings. Cook the oysters rare done in a little suacepan separately, with a spoonful of milk, scrap of butter, and thickening to make white sauce of the liquor. Break the four eggs in a bowl, put in a spoon- ful of milk and beat with the wire egg whisk. Add a pinch of salt Shake a tablespoonful of melted lard about in the large omelet fi-ying pan and before it gets very hot pour in the omelet and let it cook rather slowly. Properly made omelets are not exactly rolled up, but there is a knack to be learned of shaxjing them in the pan by shaking while cooking iuto one side of it, the side farthest from you, while you keep the handle toward you raised higher. Loosen the edges with a knife when it ia nearly cooked enough to shake. When the omelet is nearly done in the center place the oysters with a spoon in the hollow mid- dle and pull over the further edge to cover them in. Slide on to the dish, smooth side up. Gar- nish with parsley and lemon. One reason of omelets and all fried eggs stick- ing to the frying pan is allowing the pan to get too hot. They seldom stick when poured into a pan that is only kept warm till wanted. The pans should be kept for no other purpose, and be rubbed smooth after using, if not bright 67— Turkey Salaut should coat over the pile of salad material it is spread upon. The foregoing shows the improved and quickest method of making this important sauce or dress- ing; the egg-beater or the want of it need not, however, be an oljstacle in tho way, for simply stirring around in Ihe liow.l with a wooden .spoon 18 the way moat commonly practiced. After spreading the mayonaise over the turkey salad, ornament with quarters of hard-boiled eggs or with chopped yolka and parsley, olives, cut lemons or shapes stamped out of cooked beets. 6D— ^%'^'lsll Karebit— Canapes au Fromage. 4 ounces of cheese. 2 ounces of butter. Quarter cupful of milk or ale. 3 yolks of eggs. Little cayenne pepper and salt. 4 thin pieces of toast. Chop the cheese small, throw it and the butter into a little saucepan and as they get warm mash them together. When softened add the yolks and ale and pinch of cayenne aud salt. Stir till it is creamy, but do not let it boil, for that would apoil it. Place tfie slices of toast on a dish, pour the creamed cheese upon them and set inside the oven about two minutes. The ale only heightens the flavor, and some prefer to use milk. The simplest form of Welsh rarebit is a slice of cheese placed on a slice of bread and baked in the oven, li depends upon t)ie quiility of tho ■JO— Macaroon Tarts. Commonly miscalled macaroni tarts. Patty pans lined with sweet paste, partly filled with almond macaroon mixture aud baked. 71— Sweet Tart Pastn. S ounces of ilour — a pint. 3 ounces of butter — }4 cupful 1 tablespoonf ul of powdered sugar. 1 egg. Little salt. Quarter cupful of water. Bub the butter into the flour as in making short paste, add the egg, sugar and salt with the water, mix and knead it smooth. EoU out very thin, cut out pieces and line the patty pans. 73— -Almoiid Macaroon Mixture. 8 ounces of granulated sugar, 4 whites of eggs. 8 ounces of almonds. 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice. Put the sugar and two of the whites in a deep bowl together, and beat with a wooden paddle about fifteen minutes, then add another white and beat again, then the lemon juice and then the last white. Crush the almonds by rolling them with the rolling-pin on the table. They need not be blanched (freed from the skins) un- less so preferred. When they are reduced to meal mix them with the contents of the bowl. This mixture, as well as cake icing, should al- ways be started with bowl and ingredients all cold, for if warm they cannot be beaten to the requisite d.gree of firmness. The patty pane or gem pans being already lined with the tart paste, half fill with the maca- roon paste, smooth over and bake in a very slack oven. The baking is the most difficult part, for with too much heat the macaroon mixture melts away to candy. These tarts, when right, rise smooth and rounded in the crusts, and are partly hollow underneath. 73— Nesselrode Ice Cream. Glace Nesselrode or iced pudding. A frozen custard made of pounded chestnuts, with fruit and flavorings : 1 pound of large chestnuts. 1 pint of rich boiled custard. 1 cup of sweet cream, 3 ou'.icos of citron. CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 23 2 ounces of sultana raisins. 2 ounces of stewed pineapple. !'.< cupful of marascliioo. 1 teaspoonf ul of vanilla extract. Pinch of salt in the chestnut pulp. Slit the shells of the chestnuts, boil them half an hour, peel clean, and pound the nuts to a paste, and rub it through a fine sieve, moisten- ing with cream. Then mix it with the boiled custard. Freeze this mixture, and when firm whip the cup of cream, and stir it in and freeze again. Then add the citron cut in shreds, the stewed or candied pineapple, likewise the raisins, maraschino, and vanilla e.ttract. Beat up and freeze again, and either serve in ice cream plates out of the freezer, or pack the cream in a mold, and when well frozen send to table whole, turned out of the mold on to a folded napkin on a dish. 74— Pound Cake. 14 ounces of sugar. 13 ounces of butter. 10 eggs. 1 pound of flour. Warm the butter and sugar and stir them to- gether to a cream, add the eggs two at a time, beating well, then the flour hy degrees. When all the flour is in it is finished. There should be no baking powder nor flavorings in pound cake. 75— Coffee. In the city the right way they have of grinding coffee makes the retail grocery merchants greater correctors of the bad coffee makers than all the tirades that have ever been written. For coffee should be ground coarse, about like oatmeal, and then when boiled it clears itself naturally, but most people who grind at home reduce it to fine powder, making it difficult to clarify. The idea is, probably, that fine grinding insures the ex- traction of all the strength of the coffee, but the same is obtained when it is coarsely ground, for the berry is porous and the water penetrates it all. The ease with which coarse ground cofi'ee can be made clear by only allowing it to stand a while after a minute or two of boiling, acts very much against the adoption of any of the newly-con- trived coffee pots. I knew of a gentlemen's club once whose members, above everything, were proud of the excellence of their coffee, and I found their cook making it in as simple a man- ner as the Turks did at the Centennial celebra- tion. He boiled the coarsely ground coffee in a boiler of water, set it off the fire a few minutes, and then dipped it out of the top hy cupfuls, without touching the sediment. That was not science in hia case, but laziness, mere letting well enough alone, and he had to waste all the coffee at the bottom of the vessel. That only shows how easy it is to have coffee clear and of fine flavor. One of the best arrangements is the urn with a muslin bag suspended inside, which holds the coffee grounds, the coffee being drawn off and poured into the sack repeatedly till all the strength is extracted. A coft'ee pot with the same inside contrivance is defective, because should there, after all, be a fine sediment at the bottom it will be disturbed every time the coffee pot is tilted. The rule for good coffee is two ounces of coffee to a quart of water — making about five cups. Old government Java is commonly considered the best kind; a mixture of Java and Rio the most serviceable. Eio coffee is the cheapest, strongest, and by many preferred to the other kinds. French dripped coffee is never boiled, but boiling water is poured over tha coarse ground coffee in a perforated vessel set in the top of the coffee-pot. Double the quantity of coffee is re- quired to make it that way. French dripped coffee has no eggs or other ar- ticles added to clear it, neither has Turkish coffee, They are not necessary. If let alone I use no eggs for such a purpose, but the custom to the contrary is prevalent, and it is not worth con- tending against. Have the coffee fresh roasted and fresh ground, pour cold water to it in a bowl, just enough to wet it, put in the white of an egg and stir up, then pour it to hot water in the coffee-pot. When it has boiled a minute take it off and eitlier pour the whole contents into the strainer in the urn or else put in hilf a cup of cold water and let it settle in the pot. And once I went to. a restaurant where the coffee in former times had been most excellent, but now it was detestable, being always like ink in color and of a vile cankerous taste. I ad- vised throwing away the urn, w^hich had been in use night and day, always with hot coffee in it, for over two years. It was a good-looking affair outside, but inside was tin-corroded and black- ened. But to save it a course of scouring and intervals of dryness and new ways of making the coffee were instituted, but all to no purpose, and at last, from sheer necessity, the used-up urn was thrown away, and a new one, bright and shining, took its place, and once more there was delicious coffee. People who find coffee-making difficult, and think there must be a secret art in it that they have never found out, will perhaps do well to see that the inside of the much-used coffee-pot or urn has not become corroded and iron-rusted unawares. There are strong chemi-, cal properties in coffee that make it necessary to keep it, if kept at all, in earthenware, or some- thing that is not metal. 24 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. lENU NO. VIII— BREAKFAST. 76— Stewed Chicken With Egs Dumplinss. It is a convenient ouatom that prevails of call- ing every fowl a chicken, although some of them could not be any tougner by any other name. Really young chickens are not very interesting, because they ca n be so easily broiled or fried ; but on the same principle that an angler prizes most the kind of fish that it is the hardest to wrestle with when caught, we should accord the greatest consideration to the very mature fowl and measure our skill by our success in making her once more a tender chicken, if not a young or small one. ■77- How to Cut Up a Fowl. It saves a good deal of embarrassment to the person who must serve out the stewed chicken or pot-pie, if the fowl be divided in proper pieces before cooking, the object in cutting up being to make every piece presentable. For this reason the proper way is to chop it apart, neatly, and with clean cuts with a heavy knife, for it divided according to the joints some portions will be bare of meat and might as well have been kept out First, split the fowl in halves lengthwise. This can be done by cutting down the middle of the back with a sharp kitchen knife, laying the fowl wide open and chopping through the breast bone inside. Lay a half on the board and sever the drumstick by chopping through the joint. Chop through the hip joint, or a little on the meaty side of it, and slantwise, taking at that cut the side bone and tail end, all sufficiently covered with meat, a little derived from the second joint, and then cut off the second joint by chopping straight across the fowl, making three pieces of equal weight of that quarter. Cut off the two small joints of the wing. Chop off the main joint slantwise, so that it will have attached to it tne piece of neck bone and a small portion of the breast. There will remain nearly the entire breast, which should be chopped straight across and make two pieces. Cut up the other half of the fowl in the same way. It is just like skillful carving of a cooked fowl in results ; a proper method of cutting up gives to each person at table a piece of meat of equally good appearance, and not to one all the meat and to the next a dark-looking piece of bone, already stripped. The fowl having been out up, wash the pieces in cold water with care to free them from any fragments of bone left by the chopping. Put the pieces into a saucepan, with cold water enough to cover them — about a quart — and boil with the lid on till tender. A very young chicken may be done in 15 or 20 minutes. One a year old takes an hour or more. But some that are of mature years, if fat, are as good as any if only cooked long enough — prob- ably three hours. The cook's concern is only to know how long before the meal to commence the-oooking, in order to have it just right, for too much boiling is as bad as too little. (See No. 33.) 78— Stewing and Boiling Fowls. Stewed chicken should be commenced in cold water, as above directed, the liquor becoming the richer for it ; but when a fowl is boiled whole it is desirable to have it juicy, so that the gravy will run out of it when cut, and for that reason it should he dropped into water (or soup) that is already boiling, the heat of the water imme- diately cooking the outside prevents the juices oozing out, as would be the case if it were set on cold and gradually heated to the boiling pomt. While the chicken is stewing throw in a table- spoonful of chopped onion, a piece of pickled pork as big as an egg, out into shreds, about a level teaspoonful of salt, half as much black pepper and a cupful of milk. Mix two table- spoonfuls of flour with a little water and stir that in to thicken it. Then make the egg dumplings, cook them separately if you care to have the dish look attractive, dish up the chicken in a large platter, lay tlie dumplings across the top, pour in what gravy the dish will hold and set a bowlful on the table beside. 79— Ess: OuinpUngs. 1 heaping cupful of flour. 3 yolks or 1 whole egg. 3 or 4 tabiespoonfuls of water, Little salt. Have the flour in a bowl or small pan, make a hole in the middle and throw in the salt, mix the 3 yolks with about their bulk of water or a little more, pour into the flour and mix up to smooth yellow dough. Roll it out thin, cut in ribbons and drop tliem into the boiling liquor — either the chicken stew or a sauoenan of salted water ready for the purpose. Keep the lid on and cook for about ten minutes. SO-Codlish ISalls. 8 ounces of raw pared potatoes. 6 ounces of boneless salt codfish. I tablespoonf ul of butter, melt«d. legg. Pinch of black pepper. Flour to ball up with. Soak the codfish, if convenient, a little wliile before cooking. Boil it about lialf an h.iur. CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. Pick it over for bones, then pound it in a pan "with the potato masher. iSoii or steam the potatoes, and when done and well drained of water mash them with the fish, add the butter, pepper and egg, make up into balls either rouud or flattened, with plenty of flour on the hands, drop them into hot frying fat and fry of a nice brown color. When the common large salt codfish is used chop it into pieces suitable to the saucepan, and. whether steeped in water first or not, always pour off the first water as soon as it boils and fill up with plenty of fresh. This takes away the rank taste. Good codfish balls cannot generally be made with the mashed potatoes left from din- ner because of the moisture in them. The ar- ticle properly made is rather dry and has a per- ceptible flavor of good black pepper. 81— Boston Brown Bread. 1 pint cupful of corn meal— large. 1 pint of boiling water. }{ coffeecupful of black molasses. ;iiddln£.s. 1 level cupful of powdered sugar. J^ cupful of butter. 3 whites of eggs. 3 tablespoonfuls of brandy or flavoring. Take half the sugar and stir it up with the softened butter to a cream, as if making cake. Have the whites (that were leftover from maliing corn pudding) quite cold, that they may whip easilj^; whip to a firm froth and stir in the re- maining sugar. Mix this and the butter mixture together lightly, without beating; add the brandy and keep the sauce on ice till wanted. It should be made late. 101— Lemon Pie. 4 ounces of sugar — 3^ cupful. 1 large lemon. J^ pint of water — 1 cupful. 1 rounded tableapoonful of corn starch. 3 yolks, or 1 or 2 eggs. Put the sugar in a saucepan, grate into it the yellow rind and squeeze in the juice of the lemon without the bitter seeds. Add the water and sei over the fire. Mix the starch with a spoonful of water and add it as soon as the lemon syi'up begins to boil. Take off immediately and add the eggs, which are not to be cooked in it, but in the pies. This makes 1 or 2 pies, ac- cording to size. 103— Plain Pie Paste. 5 rounded oupfuls of flour. 3^ cupful of butter, or lard, drippings, or minced suet. J^ cupful of cold water. Little salt Keep out a dusting of flour. Kub the shorten- ing into the other, dry. Pour the water in the middle, aud mix up soft. Pat it out smooth on the table, roll out once and fold over, and it is ready for use. 103— Alering:acD I'or X.eljion Pies. 3 whites of eggs. 2 tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar. Flavoring. Whip the whites with a wire egg whisk. They must be cold, to whip up easily. Stir in the sugar and few drops of flavoring. Use imme- diately. Meringue or frosting falls flat and worthless on lemon pies and other ai'ticles generally through too much baking. When the pies are nearly done spread the meringue upon them in the oven as they are by means of a long spoon. The hot surface cooks the frosting at bottom at once, and prevents its melting away. Let remain with the oven door open till the top is straw-colored. 104— Corn Starch lilauc-Mang:e. 1 pint of milk — 2 large cups. 3 ounces of sugar — 3 tablespoonfuls. 1}.^ ounces of starch — 2 tablespoonfuls. Butter size of a cnerry. Flavoring extract Pinch of salt. Boil the milk with the sugar in it Mix the starch in a cup with a little cold milk extra, stir into the boiling milk and let it cook a minute or two. Take from the fire, beat in the butter to whiten it; salt and flavor, aud put immediately into cups or other moulds previously wetted with cold water. Turn out when cold and serve with sweetened cream or diluted fruit ielly. A small peach leaf boiled in the milk gives a good flavor, or a piece of stick cinnamon, or orange peel — the thin- shaved yellow zest only. These, of course, are in place of the extracts. 105— ScotcU Seed Calse. Takes 5 hours' time to make, raise and bake, using dough to begin with. 1 pound of light bread dough. 6 ounces of sugar. G ounces of butter. 2 eggs. 1 small teaspoonful of carraway seeds. 4 ounces of flour. Weigh out the dough at 7 or 8 in the morning, set it with the butter and sugar in the same pan in a warm place. At about 9 work all together and beat in the eggs, and add the seeds. Give it another half hour lo become smooth, then add the flour and give the whole .5 minutes' beating. It makes a stiff batter — not dough. Let it rise in the pan about two hours; then beat again. Put it in a buttered cake mould. Bise about an hour. Bake as you would bread 106— Corned Beef Brine. 6 gallons of water— nearly 3 pailfuls. 3 to 6 ounces of saltpeter, in large crystals. 1 pint of molasses or sugar. 10 pounds of coarse salt Boil the above all together and skim while it is boiling. Pour it into two stone jars or a keg or barrel. The jars are best in places where so CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. there are pieces of beef unsuitable for roasting, to be rolled up and tied in shape and dropped in every day, one jar to receive the fresh additions and the other to use out of that which is suffi- ciently corned. For this use the larger quantity of saltpeter is needed. Beef dropped in this pickle will be ready for use iu a week. But wheu a quarter of beet is to be cut up and put down iu brine to remain in it a very long time, 3 or 4 ounces of saltpeter is sufficient For the saltpeter makes the red color,, and we do not want the sliced corned beef on our New England boiled dinner to look as red as the beets. The barrel should be kept in a cool, dry cellar. Put a board on top of the meat and a rock upon that. Keep covered. 107— Potato Yeast. 6 or 8 potatoes. 1 handful of hops. 1 pint cupful of flour. 1 tablespoouful of sugar. 2 dry yeast cakes to start it, or a cupful of yeast from the baker's. Pare the potatoes and boil them in plenty of water, and tie the hops in a piece of mosquito bar and boil with them. Have the flour in a pan, pour the boiling potatoes and water to it and mash all together. Let it cool, or add cold water or ice. When no more than milk- warm strain through a sieve, mix iu the sugar and the yeast cakes or yeast, and let it stand in a warm corner in a jar to ferment for twenty-four hours. Yeast of this sort will not turn sour so soon if the flour is well scalded as above directed. Sugar makes it stronger than it would be with- out This having been started witk dry yeast cakes will do to start the next making without using yeast cakes agaiiL Salt is not needed in yeast, but it seems to do no harm. The very strongest, sweetest and best yeast can only be made by starting the fermentation in it with bakers' stock yeast, which sometimes can be obtained of them. We will return to this matter at another time. Yeast will keep good in cold weather two or three weeks if free from sour- ness at the start. lOS— Dry Yeast Cake.s. Take a quart of potato yeast, add a spoonful of sugar to it and stir in a quart of flour. Wheu it has well risen in the pan add a quart of meal, or what will make dough of it all; press out, roll, cut out like biscuits and dry as quickly as possible. Hop yeast cakes are the same thing made with stock yeast instead of potato. 109— Cream Cheese. Take a quart of cream that has become sour and thick, mix iu a tablespoonfnl of salt and pour into it a piece of thin muslin (butter wrapping) placed in a sieve or basket bottom. Leave it in the milk house or other cool place three days, to drain and ripen, pouring away the whey from the dish it stands on every day. Lift the cheese out by taking hold of the corners of the cloth; invert it on to a plate. These are sometimes in- verted on to a large cabbage leaf on the second day and taken to market on the leaf the next day by those who make them for sale. 110— Sour Milk Cheese. Set a pan of clabbered milk on the stove when there is not much fire, and let it heat slowly with- out burning on the bottom. When it shows signs of boiling it should be taken off, as actual boiling makes the curd tough. Pour it into a piece of muslin, tie and hang on a nail to drip till next day. Chop up the ball of curd and mix with salt, pepper and cream to taste, or cream or sweet milk and sugar. Ill— Pickled Nasturtium Seeds. Substitute for capers and good in a jar of mixed picklea. Gather the green seed-pods daily and throw them into brine to keep till there is enough. Wash in freah water; fill pickle bottles with them ; pour in boiling vinegar enough to cover them; cork when cold, and seal with wax. They improve with keeping. Any fence-corner does for nasturtium flowers and seeds. 113— Pickled Radish Pods. Pick off the green seed-pods of radishes while they are tender and throw them into a jar of salt and water. When you have enough drain the salt and water from them, boil it and pour it hot upon the nods ; cover down, let remain till cold, then boil and pour it over the pods again, and after that twice more ; then drain them dry and put them back in the jar. Boil enough good vinegar to cover the pods with a small piece of race ginger and some pep- per-corns in it; pour it hot over the pods and let stand till cold. Boil and repeat twice more. Tie down when cold and keep in a cool place. 113— Fickletl Sweet Corn Ears. Take the "iiubbins" of early corn where there are too many forming on the stalk, while very small and tender. Trim neatly, and boil them H minutes in water slightly salted. Drain and put them in a jar. Boil good white vinegar enough to cover and pour it boiling hot over the corn and let it remain so until next day. Then boil the vinegar again, adding a little salt; fill up the jar with it when partially cold. Cork the jar and seal it. 114— Pickled Celery Roots. Save the solid white roots of celery, that are usually thrown away, trim and cut them in thick CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 31 slices. Boil them in salted water about ten min- utes, drain, and put them into a jar. Boil vinegar enough to cover them, with a tablespoonful of whole pepper-corns in it and pour it to the celerj'. After stindiug a day drain off the vinegar, mix mustard with it and cayenne, and pour it back intj the jar. This has some resemblance to chow-chow, and other kinds of pickles can be added. Cork down and seal the jar. 115-PickIeucliesse Potatoes. Usually served with fish, on the same plate. They are little cakes of mashed potatoes. Take four steamed potatoes and mash them with an ounce of butter, the yolk of an egg and salt. Spread on a pie plate, brush over with the yolk of an egg mixed with a spoonful of milk, cut in pieces of any shape, take up the pieces with a knife point, place them on a greased baking pan and bake a nice color on top. 135— Koast lianil). Briefly, the piece of lamb should be dusted with flour, and roasted just done. But meat cutting is quite an art. Very few women cooks understand it. As it makes meat "go further" at the carving table to have it cut up properly before cooking, it inay easily be the case that the low-priced cook costs theemployermore than the really skillful one at twice the wages. In dividing a side of lamb get the ribs ana loin as long and as well covered with moat as pos- sible by catting olf the shoulder with the knife close up to the blade bone. People who choose almost invariably want the ribs — the same cut that makes chops — and next to that for choice is the loin, which should be well cut downiuto the leg vVith the point of the kitchen cleaver hack through the backbone at one or two ribs apart, and the same along the brisket, and chop the ribs once across the breast, and all without di- viding the meat more tlian can be helped. Chop off the shanks and end of neck, wash and put them in the stock boiler. Put a little salt in tho baking pan, the fat from the lamb, and a very little water; malieithot; dip the meat in flour on both sides and lay it in the hot pan. Keep only enough water in to pre- vent burning the bottom of the pan. A little drippings may be needed for bastintr. The ribs and shoulder should be done in twenty minutes, the leg in half an hoar. There will not be any real grav.y in the pan worth speaking of by this method, the juices all being retained in the meat; but if you can afford it put a spoonful of fresh butter in during the last few minutes and baste the joint with it; it gives a richer brown to the outside, and makes a good pan gravy when water is added. Sauce for Roast Hamb. The preceding directions having been followed and the baking-pan brown already with flour CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 35 and butter, and not burnt, pour off all the clear fat, and instead of water add a cup of milk. Let cook in the pan a few minutes, then strain it and add a sprinkling of chopped parsley, and juice of half a lemon. The parsley shotild be added only when the sauce is to be sent in, as it loses color by standing. 137— Mint Sauce for Koast Lamb. The conventional lamb eauce. No other sauce or gravy is needed when this is used : 3 tablespooufuls of green mint. 1 tablespoouful of sugar. )4 cupful of vinegar. Pick the leaves of mint from the stems, wash and chop tine, and mix with the sugar and vine- gar in a bowl. Serve cold, a spoonful to each 138— New Green Peas. Nothing comes to market that is so uncertain in quality and so likely to prove vexatious iu the cookmg as green peas. They may cook one day in fifteen minutes and would break and dissolve in the water if kept on longer, and the next may still be hard and unsatisfactory at the end of two hours' boiliu','. It depends mostly upon how young or nearly ripe they are, and partly upon the kind of pea. The worst for the cook are the mixed lots, that part boil away in the water and the rest remain like beans. Canned peas of good brands are preferable to what the market gar- deners generally offer. To cook peas green in color when done, it is necessary to drop them into ivater that is already boiling and has a little salt and a pinch of either soda or carbonate of ammonia in it. The ammo- nia evaporates during the boiling. A piece the size of a pea will do, of either. When the peas are done, drain the water from them Green peas are said to be dressed a I'Anglaise when they have only a little butter and salt and spoonful of water shaken about in them. They are a la Francaise when they have cream sauce mixed ia 139— Broivned Potatoes. Pare the potatoes and steam them, and the broken ones being used to mash, or a la duchesse, put the others in a small pan with some of the drippings from the roast lamb pan and a dredging of salt and bake them brown. Cold boiled or baked potatoes are not lit for this purpose — they can be used better for breakfast dishes. 140— Bread Custard l*udding. a cupf uls — pressed in— of fine bread crumbs. 2 oupfuls of milk. 1 ounce of butter — small egg size. 1 tablespoouful of si(gar. 3^ a lemon. S yolks, or 1 whole egg. Crumble the bread fine either by chopping or grating; grate half the rind of a lemon into it and squeeze a little of the juice into the sugar. Mix the milk with the yolks and sugar; melt the butter and mix in and pour the mixture over the bread crumbs in a buttered pudding- pan or bowl and halve about twenty-five minutes. Various changes can be made by adding raisins, currants or citron to this pudding. The fruit must be sprinkled in after the pudding is in tbe baking pan. It will sink if stirred. Serve a sauce with the pudding. Calves' heads ought not to be thrown away, as they are in the country, for want of knowledge of an easy way of cleaning them. They are com- paratively worthless when the skin is removed (which is the gelatinous portion that makes calf's-head soup, almost as good as turtle), and yet that is the way they are generally served if saved at all. 141. To remove the hair drop the head and feet into a tub of hot water that has had a shovelful of wood ashes boiled in it, or a few crumbs of concentrated l;fe, or washing soda. The water must not be quite boiling hot, as that will set the hair and make cleaning difficult. Churn them about with a stick of wood a few minutes, then scrape with a sharp knife. Koast the hoofs in hot coala and pry them off with a knife point. A nicely cleaned head and feet bring $1 or $1,150 in market. 143— Calf s Head Soup. Mock turtle soup is made of calf's head, but it is quite an elaborate and tedious affair to make it right We will have mock turtle next week. This is much more simple. 14 a head and 2 feet 3 quarts of waier or stock. Small slice of fried ham. .},{ a bayleaf, 3 cloves, fragment of mace. A soup bunch with parsley and cives. Salt, pepper and thickening. 1 hard-boiled yolk of egg. J^ a lemon. As these seem a good many things for a simple soup, let us analyze: The head gives the richness of jelly, but it is insipid; the scrap of ham, the spices, herbs and vegetables give the necessary flavor. The most of tbe meat is to be saved for the entree, the rest goes back iu the soup after it has been strained, seasoned and thickened. Then chop the hard-boiled yolk and sprinkle it in, and the half lemon cut in small pieces. Or, to state it in order : Saw the calf's head in two: save the brain and tongue, steep the half head you are going to use in cold water. Put it and the feet on in cold water or stock and simmer about two hours with the vegetables and spices, then strain off, season and thicken with a little flour. Cut the beat part of the head into oblong pieces and reserve them, and take what is left to chop coarsely — or cut in 36 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. dice — and put it in the soup with the egg and lemon and a little minced parsley. 143— Cucumber Salail. Slice the cucumbers two hours before they are ■wanted and sprinkle the slices plentifully with salt. , Set the dish in the refrigerator. Just be- fore dinner drain away the salt liquor from the cucumbers and mix them with oil first, and then with vinegar and pepper. Serve on a very cold dish. 144— Broiled Salmon Steak vpitli New Potatoes. One of the greatest luxuries that can be pro- vided for a fine breakfast or dinner, not only for ts high price but because the salmon is calle d the king of fishes. Slice the fish with a sharp knife and sever the bone in tlie center by striking the point of the knife with a hammer — not to break or tear the meat Lay the steaks in a bright tin pan or dish, dredge with pepper and salt, brush them over with olive oil, if you can, or with clear melted butter and let them lie till wanted. Then broil in the hinged wire broiler same as beefsteaks, about ten mmutes. Dish up on a large platter hot. Have some new potatoes ready boiled, cut them in quarters lengthwise and place them as a border around the steak. Shake a teaspoonful of chopped parsley over the salmon steak, melt a piece of fresh butter in an omelet pan and pour it hot over it, squeeze the juice of a half a lemon over that. Place three or four green tufts of parsley among the potatoes in the border and send it in. Instead of having the rib bones taken out and the thin flap of meat coiled around the roast ; have the roast shortened by sawing off the ends. These with the bones in, about two inches in length, make a very popular dish if cooked tender. Bake them in a deep baking pan with water and drippings and a good allowance of salt for two or three hours. Manage it so that the meat will be stewing in the water and gravy three-fourths of the time, and dry out and brown in the hot glaze on the bottom at last. Use a greased paper to lay on the top of the meat to keep it moist during the first hour. Roll the pieces over and over in the glaze during the last five minutes, to make them shining brown with it. Pour off the fat after the meat is removed and make gravy iu the pan. 146— Yorkshire Puddin:?. Originally it was baked in front of the fire under the meat roasting on the spit, the gravy dripping upon it The Yorkshire pudding that is baked in a range is good enough, however. 1 cupful of flour — sifted, heaping. 1 pint of watei- — 3 cupfuls. 3 eggs. 1 tablespoonful of drippings, melted. Salt and baking powder, very little. Mix the flour and water (or milk) together gradually by stirring in the middle. When it is free from lumps add the melted drippings or but- ter, salt, and the eggs well beaten. Bake in a shallow pan, half an inch deep, about twenty minutes. Cut it iu squares and serve it with the piece of meat on top, in a hot dish, and the meat gravy separately. The batter, as above made, is excellent for sweet puddings, with a spoonful of golden syrup added and the whites of the eggs whipped light. Strew raisins iu tlie batter iu the pan before put- ting it iu the oven, or quartered apples partly cooked in syrup first 147-Calf's Head Bieatled. Take the shapely pieces that have been re- served from the souu-making, pepper and salt them, then roll in beaten egg with a little water added, and then in cracker meal, and fry them quickly brown in hot drippings or lard. Serve with tomato sauce. 148— Stewed Oyster Plant or Salsify. Scrape the roots white, wash and cut them in inch lengths. Boil in salted water till tender. They should be tried with a fork, as the time re- quired varies. Generally, salsify takes about an hour to cook. Then drain away the water and put in some cream sauce, or milk, butter, salt and thickening. 149— Lemon <^ream Pie. We have had already two lemon pies, a com- mon and a rich kind This cream pie may be made in a crust that is already baked, if pre- ferred, or baked together like the others. I. Line the plates with pie paste and bake of a light color. Make the pastry cream (No. 54), and when it is cold whip a cupful of thick cream in a whip- churn to a iirm froth and mix part of it in. Use the remaining whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, to spread over the top after filling the crusts. These pies, of course, do not need baking. n. Make a special cream filling this way : 1 pint of milk. 4 ounces of sugar. 2 ounces of flour — 2 heaping tablespooufuls. 1 tablespoonful of butter. 4 esge. }y£ a lemon, or lemon extract Boil the milk. Mix the sugar, the grated CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 37 lemon rind, and flour together dry and stir them into the boiling milk ivith a wire whisk. Add the butter and juice of the lemon and then the yolka of the eggs well beaten, but take from the fire before they cook. Line pie pans with puff paste or tart paste. Pour in the cream and bake in a alack oven. When done meringue over as directed at No. 103. Variations of these kinds are made by first spreading fruit jelly or marmalade in the crusts and the lemon cream on that, and by making deep patty pan sizes, finished in the same way. 150— Strawberry Meringue. Bake a sheet of sponge cake on a jelly cake pan, take it off warm and gently press it, top side down, into a dinner place to shape it hollow. Mix half a cup of sugar with two cups of straw- berries by shaking about in a bowl, and spread them on the cake. Whip the whites of three eggs firm, mix in two tablespoouf ills of sugar, spread the meringue over the berries and bake with the oven door open about five minutes, or until it is lightly colored. A piece of board hould be placed under the plate to keep it froms getting too hot in the oven, as it is not intended to bake anything but the top covering. Serve cold. 151— Spouse Cake. 14 ounces of granulated sugar. 12 eggs. 13 ounces of flour. Beat the sugar and eggs together with a stout wire egg whisk for half an hour. Then cut in the flour. The goodness of the cake depends al- together upon the beating, and for that to be effectual the ingredients must be cold. The eggs need not be separated, the whites from the yolks. The best vessel for the beating is a bell-metal kettle, but a deep pan or tin pail will do. After the flour is in and just stirred enough to be fairly out of sight it is finished, and should not be beaten more. Baiie as soon as possible. It may incerest some reaaers to know that at the great baiseries wnere almost everything else is done by machinery, the sponge cake, one of the most important articles in the trade, is still made by hand as above described. 153— Small Sponare Cakes. Brush inside some small sponge cake pans, or gem or muffin pans, with a touch of melted lard, and sift flour in them. Shake out, and half fill them with the sponge cake batter. Sift powdered sugar over the tops — the pans being set on a paper — and bake the cakes in a slack oven till of a light brown color. 153— Neiv York Ice Cream. 1 quart of thin cream. 12 ounces of sugar. 12 yolks of eggs. Vanilla bean or extract to flavor. Boil the cream with the sugar and a vanilla bean in it Beat the yolka light and pour the boilmg cream to them. Set on the fire again for a minute. This yellow custard will not become frothy, rich and light in the freezer if cooked much, but should be taken off and strained as soon as slightly thickened. Set the freezer con- taining it in its tub and pack with ice pounded fine and mixed with one-fifth as much coarse salt, Tui'n the freezer, and when the contents is nearly frozen, if a common freezer ia used, take off the lid and beat up the cream with paddle or spoon. 154— Cocoanut Candy Drops. 1 pound of granulated sugar. 8 ounces of grated cocoanut One-third cupful of water. Set the sugar and water over the fire in a small, bright kettle and boil about five minutes, or till the ayrup bubbles up and ropes from the spoon, and do not stir it. Then put in the cocoanut, stir to mix, and begin at once and drop the cand3' by tablespoonfuls on a buttered baking pan. The dry dessicated cocoanut ia the eaaier kind to work with. With the moist, fresh grated more time should be given for the augar to boil to the candy point. MENU NO. XIV.— DINNER. 155— Mock Turtle Soup. 1 gallon of soup stock or water. }4 a calf's head, 2 feet and tongue. Soup bunch of vegetables and aweet herbs. Flour browned with butter, for thickenin.g. 1 lemon. Some spices. Bay leaf. A glass of sherry. Cayenne. Salt. Egg balls and meat balls. Simmer the meats in the stock about two hours, along with the soup bunch and thyme, savory and parsley, and half a bay leaf and four cloves. While this ia boiling put into a frying pan a small, thin slice of ham and butter the size of an egg. Fry the ham on both sides, put in with it two tablespoonfuls of flour and set the pan in the oven for the flour to brown nicely in the butter without getting black. Then take the calf's head out of the soup and stir the browned flour and ham into it. Let cook a while to thicken. After that pass the soup, which should be like thin gravy, through a strainer into a- clean saucepan, and when it boils skim it. Mix 3$ CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. the juice of halt' the lemon in a little cold water, pour it in and skim ^vheu it boils up again. This makes the soup bright. Season with salt and cayenne. Cut some scraps of the head m neat dice and throw them in, then the quenelles, the remaining lemon sliced thin, and the glass of sherry. a hard boiled yolks of eggs. X as much hot boiled potato. 1 teaspoonf ul of chopped parsley. Cayenne and salt. 1 raw yolk. Mash all together. Make up in balls size of cherries, with flour on the hands. Poach them a minute or two in a frying pan of boiling water. Take up on a skimmer and drop them into the soup. 3^ a calf's tongue, cooked, or some cold veal. 1^ the weight of fine bread crumbs, a or 3 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Seasoning of sweet herbs, and nutmeg. Pepper and salt. 1 raw egg. Mince the meat small, add the other in- gredients, and pound them all together. Make up in little balls, with flour on the hands. Poach them in boiling water and put them in the soup. The above two mixtures can be used as cro- quettes, made into shapes, and fried; and are good to place as ornamental accessories in the sauces to fish and meats. 158— Small Patties au Salpicun. These little trifles that are often served be- twixt the soup and the fish are made in a dozen different shapes and filled with as many different preparations. The word salpicon means a mince like sausage meat, highly seasoned, and may be made like the forcemeat balls preceding of cooked meat as well as raw, with chicken minced as if for croquettes, and the like. Make the puff-paste No. .53, and roll out thin as the edge of a plate; cut out with a biscuit cutter. Wet one flat with a brush dipped in water, place a teaspoonful of extra high-seasoned sausage meat in the center and cover with an- other of the flats. Press the edges together lightly all around and bake about twenty min- utes. 159— Baked Whitefish, Tartar Sauce. Split the fish, after cleaning, down the back and take out the backbone. Put some good, clear drippings to get hot in a baking pan. Wipe the fish, dip it in beaten egg, theu dip it in flour and then in egg again; lay it in the pan of hot fat and bake it carefully at a moderate heat — perhaps with the oven door open — for about twenty minutes. Baste the exposed surface with the fat. Fish look? extremely rich cooked this way, yellow-brown and semi-transparent, if not allowed to get too hot while baking; yet the fat must be hissing hot when the fish is put in. Serve cold tartar sauce in a boat separately. Garnish the fish with fried parsley. 160— Tartar Sauce, Cold. Make the mayonaise sauce. No. 68, and add to it a little finely-minced onion and green gherkin. 161— I>aupliine Potatoes. Served with fish, in the same plate. Press mashed potatoes through a sieve; mix the yolk of au egg in it; drop a few tablespoonfuls on a baking pan, in shapes like little drop-cakes, and bake them a light color. 163— Koast Beef. "Cooks are born, not made; but it requires genius to roast" — the aphorism of a noted French gourmand, so often quoted, let us repeat once again. It may not bear to be construed literally, but it expresses the idea of relative importance. Was it not really a genuine expression of impa- tience at the dullness of apprehension of the good man's own cook, who, likely enough, would keep sticking the fork into the meat and letting out all the juices? . To roast or bake meat so that, however small the piece may be, it will be found fuU of gravy when cut, it is necessary to have the pan it is baked in hot before the meat goes in, and although there must be liquor in tlie pan while it is baking, that should be added after the meat has become hot enough outside for the pores to be closed and the juices retained inside. The choice roasting piece of beef is the ribs between the edge of the shoulder-blade and the loin — the short ribs. As the butchers have to sell everything, as a matter of business, they take out the ribs and coil the thin meat of the breast around the choice upper portion, and make a neat cushion-shaped roast, secured with twine and skewers. In the places where the highest prices are paid, however, the breast por- tion has to be cut away altogether and cooked separately, as in our example last week, and the choice upper portion or entee-cote only is roasted. This is nearly always cooked rare done, and the plentiful gravy that flows from it when cut is caught in a dish and is the only gravy served with it. As to time, the old rule is the only one : Allow a quarter of an hour for each pound of meat, and less, according to judgment, when the roast is of thin shape or required to be very rare done. Chicago HERALt) cooking School. 39 When a made gravy is required to go with the beef, the bones and trimmings of the ruast should be put ia the pan with it, a little salt, a slice of carrot and turnip, and a little hot water, and when the meat is done and the water all dried out, pour off the grease, add some broth or water to the glaze on the bottom of tue pan, and when it is dissolved by boiling tnielien it slightly with flour and strain it. This is called sauce brune ; but when made richer by the use of large quan- tities of meat, and highly flavorad with spices and herbs, it is called espaguole by the cooks, who then subdivide it, and by adding different ingredients to different portions, make the host of sauces with unfamiliar names that lead off to the inextricable entanglements of French cookery. 163— Browned Parsnips. There are two kinds of parsnips ; the hollow- crown or sugar parsnip is the best, and will take on a rich brown in the oven when the other kind comes out only dried and tasteless. Pare the parsnips, cut in pieces lengthwise and steam about an hour. Then bake in a hot oven, with a little salt and meat drippings. Drain by tipping up one end of the pan. 164— String Beans. Snap them in two in the middle and pull off the strings. Boil in salted water about three- quarters of an hour. Drain the water away and put in the same seasonings as in green peas, either a little cream sauce or butter, salt and pepper. 165— Croquettes of Calves' Brains. 1 set of brains — about }4 pound. 1 cupful, loose measure, of bread crumbs. 1 ounce of butter. ]4 an egg— or the yolk. 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley. 1 teaapoouf ul of mixed salt and pepper. Little lemon juice, or tablespoonful of vinegar. Slight gratmg of nutmeg. Simmer the brains in salted water for about twenty minutes, then put them in cold water and peel off the dark outside, cut them up and mash with the bread crumbs and all the other in- gredients. Make up in shapes with flour on the hands. Long rolled shapes like link sausages, with the ends cut off square, are best. These, if well coated with flour, can be fried in the wire basket in hot lard, of a nice yellow color, or may be rolled first in beaten egg and then in cracker meal and fried. Let them get well done. Serve with cream sauce, or with green peas dressed with butter. 166 -Ci- ' Bcchaini:!. 2 rounded tablespoonfuls of flour. Butter size of an egg. 1 cupful of boiling milk or cream. Salt Mis the flour with most of the butter in a little saucepan and let them get hot and bubbling over the fire with constant stirring, then add the milk a little at a time and stir it up smooth. When it is cooked thick beat in the remaining portion of butter. Strain if not quite smooth. This sauce is useful in fifty ways, for codfish in cream, chipped beef, vegetables, sauce for fresh boiled fish, etc., etc. As we suppose we are writing explanations for domestic cooks, as well as others, who should know how to cook for the wealthy who can choose the best, it may be stated that the elaborately prepared Bechamel, that is, the sauce originated by a cook of that name, is made of broth with all the vegetable seasonings in it boiled dow^n very strong and rich, then thickened as above shown with fiour and butter, and thick cream added at last. Plain people will hardly care for such niceties in small matters, yet when club men vaunt the ex- cellence of the club or restaurant table it must be a source of satisfaction to know whereof they boast; 167— Cairs Head, Vinaisrette. Cut the calf's head that was reserved from the sotip-making into oblong pieces and turn off the rough ends and edges. Keep the pieces on a plate ready. Make the sauce of ; 1 cupful of clear broth or stock. 1 tablespoonful of butter. 6 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, I teaspoonf ul of corn starch. Salt and cayenne. 1 pickled gherkin, chopped small. Boil and thicken slightly with the starch. It makes a clear acid sauce. Put in the pieces of calf's head and let them get warm through with- out boiling. Add the chopped pickle. Orna- ment the dish when served with quarters of hard-boiled eggs, or a little chopped egg sprinkled over. The same dish made without butter is also served cold, along with the side dishes of cucum- bers, cress, etc., like soused head or feet. 168— Potatoes in Cream. Buy freshly dugpotatoes that can be scraped, if they can be had as well as tiie wilted ones that must be pared. Steam them till done, about half an hour, then put them in cream sauce made thin, and sprinkle in a little chopped parsley. 40 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 169— Banana Fritters. Peel the bananaa, cut them in two across and steep the pieces in syrup of sugar and water. After they have lain iu syrup an hour or two dram them, roll well in flour, making a good coating stick and either fry in hot lard or bake and baste them till of a nice light brown color and crisp outside. Boil the syrup and strain it for sauce. no— Boiled Plum Pudding. ]4 pound of white bread crumbs. 4 ounces of sugar. 4 ounces of chopped suet. 4 ounces of raisins. 4 ounces of currants. ]4 coffeeoupful of milk. 1 egg. 1 teaspoonful of mixed ground spices— cinna- mon, nutmeg and mace. Little salt and a pinch of soda. Mix the dry articles together — the bread crumbs being grated or chopped quite fine — then wet with the milk and egg, with the pinch of salt and soda dissolved in them ; tie up in a pudding bag and boil four hours. 171 -Brandy Sauce for Plum Pudding. ]4 cupful of sugar. J^ cup of water. 1 tablespoonful of butter. A slice of lemon. 1 teaspoonful of whole spices — cloves, mace, cinnamon. A wineglaasful of brandy. Boil all, except the brandy, together for five minutes, then strain and add the brandy. Another half cup of water and a teaspoonful of corn starch mixed up in it may be added to the above. It will still be transparent and cheaper than the strong syrup sauce. 173— Rhubarb Pie. Ehubarb should be peeled and cut in two-inch lengths, and cooked with only water enough to cover the bottom of the kettle, with half a pound of brown sugar to each pound spread over the top and the steam shut in. It burns easily, and should be cooked at the side of the range or set upon a brick till the sugar dissolves with the juice to form a syrup. Line the pie pans with puff paste, made not very rich, fill with the stewed rhubarb and place broad strips of paste, cut with a paste jagger across and bake ; or use the plain pie paste and bake with a top crust. Sift powdered sugar over. 173— Chocolate Cream Tarts. This is pastry cream like the lemon cream pie filling with chocolate in it. 1 pint of milk. 4 ounces of sugar. 3 ounces of flour 1 ounce of chocolate — grated. 1 ounce of butter. 3 or 4 yolks of eggs. Boil the milk with the chocolate in it and a lit- tle sugar to nrevent burning on the bottom. Mix the flour with the rest of the sugar, dry, and beat them into the boiling milk. Then add the butter and the yolks well beaten and take the mixture immediately oS' the fire. The yolks should finish cooking in the tarts. Flavor with vanilla. Line deep gem pans with tart paste, fill with the choc- olate cream and bake in a slack oven. Whip the whites of eggs, add two -spoonfuls of sugar, meringue over the tops of the tarts and let them get slightly colored on top. The same cream may be made suitable to fill shells of pastry already baked, by letling it cook sufficiently on the range and mixing in some whipped cream when cold. 174-Tutti Frutti Ice Cream. Make the frozen custard of the menu preced- ing and add to it a wineglassful of maraschino for flavor acd a teaspoonful or two of burnt su- gar coloring to give it a darker hue. Then cut a pound of French candied fruits in small pieces and mix in and freeze again. The tutti frutti may either be dished up out of the freezer by spoonfuls, or pressed into a brick-shaped mould. In the latter case, it should be prepared several hours before it is wanted, and the mould when filled should be packed in ice and salt and cov- ered down to remain two or three hours. 175-Jel!y KoU. Make sponge cake mixture, spread it thinly on a sheet of manilla paper and bake it light colored, on a baking pan. Lay the sheet when done, cake downward on the table, brush the paper over with water and pull it oft the cake. Spread with jelly and roll up. MENU NO. XV.— DINNER. 176-Mutton Stew with Vegetables. 3 pounds of breast or neck of mutton. 1 onion and a little of the green tops. 4 potatoes. Piece of turnip, carrot and parsnip. Piece of pepper pod minced, parsley and salt. The meat for this first-class dish can be bought for 4 or 5 cents per pound, because so CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 41 few know how good it is when stewed loog enough. Four hours before the meal chop the breast of mutton in pieces of even size, wash and put it on in a goocl sized saucepan with cold water enough to cover. When it boils skim it. Throw in the vegetables all but the potatoes, let stew, with the lid on, two hours, then add the potatoes, parsley, red pepper and salt, and sim- mer an hour longer. The vegetables should be cut in pieces ot even size, and other kinds can be added, such as celery and peas. Add more hot water if necessary, thicken with a spoonful of flour mixed with water. 177— Buttermilk Biscuits. 1 pound or quart of flour. 2 cupfuls of buttermilk. 1 rounded teaspoonful of soda. 1 teaspoonful of salt. Sift the soda into the flour dry, add salt, and mix with the buttermilk poured into a hollow in the middle. Care should be taken to keep the dough as soft as it is possible to roll it out Knead it only by pressing out with the flat hands. Let stand five minutes for the soda to be well dissolved in the dough, then knead again and cut out. 178— Baked Klce and Milk Pnddinz. 1 cupful of rice. 1 cupful of sugar. 6 cupfuls of milk. Cinnamon or nutmeg.. A pinch of salt Wash the rice in three or four waters, put it into a tin pudding pan, and the sugar, milk, salt and piece of stick cinnamon with it, all culd, and bake in a slow oven for three or four hours. It may be best to use only five cups of milk at first, and add the other if the time allows the pud ding to boil down dry enough. Cover with a sheet of greased paper to keep the top from scorching. MENU NO. XVI.— DINNER. 179-Onion Soup. 3 or 4 pounds of breast of mutton. 1 cupful of minced onion. 2 quarts of water. 1 cupful of milk. Flour thickening : salt and pepper. Take a breast of mutton and two shoulder shanks, or any coarse piece beside, and four hours before dinner time put them on without chop- ping or cutting up, in three quarts of water. Put the lid on, and let stew for three hours. Then tal;e out all the meat, strain the broth, and add the minced onion, pepper and salt to taste, let cook some time longer, then thicken with a tablespoonful of flour mixed up with the milk, cold, and skim the fat off as it rises. 180— Breast of Mutton, Fried or Boiled. The mutton having been cooked till tender, as directed in the preceding recipe, pull out all the bones and press the meat between two dishes. Set in a cold place. When cold, trim off rough edges; pepper and salt it; then either dip both sides in flour and fry it nicely brown (in the fat ekimmed off the soup) or broil or bake it brown without flour, and baste with a little fat while it is cooking. 181— Mashed Kuta-Ra£as. Pare one large ruta-baga turnip, cut it in thin slices, and steam about an hour over the same kettle the breast of mutton is boiled in. Mash smooth when done, and season with salt and pep- per, and add milk, if available. 183- I.ettuce Salad, 2 heads of lettuee. 1 hard-boiled egg. }4 cup ot vinegar. Salt and pepper. Chop the lettuce the last thing before dinner — that it may not have time to wilt and turn dark — and chop the white and yolk qf the egg sepa- rately. Mix lettuce, vinegar, salt'and pepper, and chopped white of egg together in a bowl, and sprinkle the minced yolk on top. 183-BoiIed Corn Meal Puddinsr. 2 level cupfuls of white corn meal. 3 cupfuls of water. 1 cupful of minced suet. 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 1 egg. Salt Lemon or orange zest, or ground ginger. Boil the water with the sugar in it, sprinkle in the meal as in making mush, and stir it over the fire for five minutes, mix in the suet, salt, beaten egg, and grated riud or ginger. Wet and flour a pudding cloth, place it in a bowl, pour in the mixture, tie loose enough for it to swell nearly double its bulk, and boil it five hours. Serve with sauce or syrup. 184— Plain Puddins Sauce. 1 cupful of hot water. 1 cupful of brown sugar. 1 tablespoonful of flour. Little butter. Stir the sugar and flour together dry, pour the water to them, add butter, and keep stirring over the fire till it boils. 42 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 185— Cominon Ginsrerbread. 12 ounces of black molasses— a coffee cupful 4 ounces of butter or lard— a small cupful. 1 tablespoonful of ground ginger. 1 small teaspoouful of soda. 1 pound or quart of flour. 1 cnpful of hot water. Salt when lard is used. ■ Melt the butter and stir it into the molasses and then the esg, ginger and soda. The mixture begins to foam. Then stir in the flour, and lastly tlie hot water, a little at a time. Bake in a shallow pan. 186— C'ollops of Beef ill Glaze. By long stewing and with care at the finish, we can have small pieces of beef, no matter how coarse the cut, perfectly tender and covered with the richest natural gravy without any additions whatever other than plain seasoning. Take two pounds of the neck of beef and cut it into small but thick steaks. Put them on in sold water with a teaspoouful of salt and half as much black pepper, and boil with the lid on for three hours. As the water boils away stir up the meat from the bottom lest it stick and burn. Move the saucepan to the front where you can watch it, and as soon as the water is nearly all expelled and before the saucepan bottom begins to brown, take it off. Put the pieces of meat on a hot dish. There will perhaps be a teacupful of essence of meaffin the saucepan. Skim off the fat if necessary and pour the essence over for gravy. 187— Boasted Onions. Peel a sufficient number of onions and steam them until done, which may take an hour and a half. Then bake them in a pan with a little drippings and salt and a sprinkling of sugar or syrup to cause them to brown on top. Serve tiiem in the same dish with the coUops of beef placed around the edge. 188— Hot Slaw. 1 quart of finely shred cabbage. 1 cupful of mixed vinegar and water. 1 egg or 2 or :^ yolUs. 1 tablespoonful of butter. Little salt, &ui,'ar and rod pepper. Mix all to- gether in a bright saucepan set in another of boiling water, and stir uutil it is at boiling heat, and the eggs in it thicken and make it look creamy. Do not let it cook. lS9-Boilea Molasses KsiU. For the paste : S ounces of flour — 2 heaping cuptuls. Lard or butter size of an egg. 1 teaspoonful of baking powder. Little salt Water to mix — over half cupful. The good of knowing huw much water by measure is that it saves weighing or measuring flour, as so much water will take up so much. Mix the flour and water with nothing else in but salt. Have the dough as soft as it possibly can be worked. Knead it on the table a little, roll out and drop the lard on it in little lumps, fold over in three and roll out again. Then strew half the baking powder over the sheet of paste dry, fold up and rollout; spread the rest of the powder and fold and roll it twice more. That makes flaky roly-noly pudding paste. }i'or the filling take half a cupful of molasses, stir into it a tablespoonful of flour and two table- spoonfuls of vinegar. Spread the preparation over the sheet of dough rolled out thin, roll it up, tie in a pudding cloth and pin the middle, and boil or steam it one hour. Dip the pudding a moment in cold water when to be taken out of the cloth. Serve with plain sauce. A still cheaper paste for roll puddings is the biscuit dough made with buttermilk and soda, as at No. 177. MENU NO. XVIII.— DINNER. 190 -Btef Pot-Pie. 3 pounds of coarse fat beef. 1 slice of salt pork or bacon. 1 onion. Salt, black pepper, flour thickening; Biscuit dough for dumplings. Take any pieces of beef not suitable for steaks, cut them to one size, put on in cold water, and let stew at least two hours, with the lid on. Throw in the seasoning of pickled pork and onion, pepper and salt. Mix a teaspoonful of flour with water for thickening. 191— Lislit JDumplinss For Pot-Pies. 1 heaping cupful of flour. 1 small teaspoonful of baking power. 14 cupful of water. Mix the powder in the flour dry, add a Utile salt; then mix up wuth a spoon. The doagh should be a little too soft to handle and the dumplings then will remain light after cooking instead of turning heavy as they often do after being good when first done. Droji the dumplings with a spoon all over the top of the stew, put on the lid and when they are nearly cooked set the sauce- pan ill the oven without the lid to brown the top. Baste once with the stew liquor. 192— How to Boil Potatoe.s. While the complaint is so common that very few cooks know how to boil a potato properly, it may be well to remember that some kinds of potatoes are so bad already they can neither be made better nor worse, no matter how they are cooked. The early sorts, that grow rapidly and soon become low-priced, are usually of a watery CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. nature. If a potato has any mealiness in it at all it will show if cooked this way; Pare and put them on in cold water, with , a little salt in it. Boil with the lid on till they will leave the fork when tried — about twenty to thirty minutes. Drain away the water, and keep the potatoes hot with the lid on, but not quite closed. The next best way is to steam them ; and pota- toes with their jackets on are still in favor even at the best tables. Potatoes to be baked should have the ends cut off and blaclc spots removed. Cutting off the ends is supposed to make them mealy by allowing the inside moisture to escape. Whether that be true or not they look the better for the attention bestowed. 193— Koiled Corn Starch FudiUus. 1 pint of milk — 3 cupfuls. 1 tablespoonful of sugar. 3 heaping tablespoonfuls of starch. 1 tablespoonful of butter. 1 egg or the yolk only. Flavoring and little salt. Boil the milk with the sugar in it. Mis the starch with a spoonful of cold milk and some of the hot; stir it in, and let cook with constant stirring about two minutes. Beat in the yolk and butter, and take it at once from the fire. For flavoring a piece of orange zest, pared thin, may be used, or stick cinnamon. Serve with sweet- ened milk or cream. This T3udding should be made only just before it is wanted, and not kept hot enough to cook more when once done. 194— To Stew Evaporated App'f s. The light colored, better qualities of dried ap- ples are made scarcely distinguishable froni fresh fruit by cooking a little acid with thein, such as lemon juice, in the watei-, or some sour fruit. They should be steeped in cold water be fore cooking, and be cooked in plenty of water and the steam shut in. The apples are all the richer for having to stew till the surplus water, if any, is expelled. Dried pears cannot be cooked soft unless of a special kind, but need to steep awhile and then cook about an hour. MENU NO. XIX— DINNER. 195— Beef Heart, Stuflfed and Baked. Boil the heart tender first, allowing about two or three hours, and let the water be nearly all boiled away at the finish, tbat the remaining liquor may be available for gravj. Make the bread stuiSng with onion and sage in it as at No. 30, but it will do without the egg. When the heart has boiled long enough cut out a portion of the middle and fill the cavity with stufiing. Set the heart in a pan in the oven with the liquor it was boiled in, and salt and pepper aud bake brown. Cut the piece of heart into small pieces, put them tq the liquor rema.iniDg in the pan and stir up with the fragments of dressing and a spoonful of thickening, making a savory thick sauce or I'agout. 196— Boiled Navy Beans. Steep a pint of beans in water overnight. Put them on in plenty of cold water to cook, and throw in soda or saleratus the size of a bean, Let boil an hour and a half, then drain off the hot water and fill up again with cold. Boil again till the beans are well done. Drain aud season. The foregoing will be found an effectual method for cooking beans soft, no matter how difficult the sample furnished may be. 197— Washington Fie. As there are other articles known by this name, it may be as well to state that this is a sort of brown bread pudding baked in a crust, such as is sold at the bakeries.^ 1 pound of bread crumbs— a pressed-in quart. 8 ounces of molasses or sugar — a teacupful. 8 ounces of currants or raisins. 3 teaspoonfuls of mixed ground spices, chiefly cinnamon. 3 teacupfuls of water. 1 small cupful of vinegar or hard cider. 8 ounces of suet chopped fine. 3 eggs — optional. Mix everything together. Cover the bottom of a baking pan with a thin sheet of common short paste (No. 103), pour in the mixture to be an inch and a half deep, cover with another tniu crust, brush over the top with milk. Bake to a light color in a slow oven about three-quarters of an hour. Cut out squares either hot or cold. MENU NO. XX.— DINNER. 198- Polato Cream Soup. 3 quarts of souij stocli. 1 medium-sized onion. A^knuckle of boiled ham. 3 large potatoes, 1 cupful of milk or cream. Salt and pepper. Boil the veal bones named in the recipe below, a soup bone beside, a small knuckle bone of boiled ham or a slice of pickled pork and a soup bunch of vegetables in three quarts of water un- til it is reduced to two quarts. Mince an onion very small and throw it in. Boil and mash the potatoes, mix the milk with them, add this to the soup, and then strain it through a colander. Season with salt and pep- per and shake in a teaspoouful of mixed jjarsley. 199-Baked lickerel wiih Green Peas. Split the fish, after scalding it, down the back, and cut out the backbone, take off the head, tail and fins. Lay these boneless sides in a baking pan with a little salt in the bottom ftnd ft half cupful g.'' 44 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. water, the skin side of the fish upward. Bake it about ten minutes and baste it once with the water in the pan, then take out the pan and re- move the skin from the fish — it peels off easily. Beat an egg in a teacup, put a little salt in and brush it all over the surface and cover that with sifted cracker dust or very finely crushed dried bread crumbs. Set it again in the oven and presently baste the breading with either clear dripping lard or butter. The fish should be done and handsomely browned in about twenty minutes. Serve with a border of green peas, either in a large dish — the fish being taken up with two cake turners — or in individual portions with the peas in the same plate. 300-Stnffed Brisket of Veal. The breast or brisket of veal is a low-priced cut, at least when the veal is large, but is most e.icellent when cooked tender. There is a large proportion of gelatinous bone and tendon good for soups and stews. Take the entire "plate," as the butchers call it, and take out the bones by cutting down the sides of the ribs and along the brisket edge with the point of a knife, without cutting through. Then chop the bones in pieces and use them in the soup, as directed in a pre- ceding recipe. Make the bread stuffing, No. 30 (without the onion), lay it on the broad, bone- less piece of veal — which may be made broader and evener by splitting the breast edge part way — then roll up and tie it in good shape with twine. Put the rolled veal into a baldng pan, with fat skimmed from the soup, a little water and salt, and bake with a greased paper on top for a time, according to the size of the veal — probably an hour and a half. Baste it with a little drippings, roll it over in the glaze or gravy of the pan when that becomes brown at last, and make pan gravy when the meat is taken out in the usual way, 201— Summer Squash, This vegetable should always be steamed, or at any rate not boiled in water, it being an object to get it as dry as possible so as to allow the addi- tion of milk or cream when it is mashed. Shave off the outside thinly with a sharp knife; cut each squash in six or eight pieces. It depends upon the age and distinctness of the seeds whether they shonld be out out or not ; if large enough to show prominently in the mashed squash take out the entire core. Squash cooks in about half an hour, and may be allowed to simmer and dry out more after mashing and seasoning, in a pan set upon a couple of bricks. 20JJ~Steamed Cherry Pudding. Make a light dough without shortening, either the same as the buttermilk biscuit at No. 177, or the potpie dumplings at No. 191, only in each case make the dough carefully, not to get too much flour mixed in, as very soft dough will prove to be much lighter than that worked up hard. Grease the bottom of a pan or dish that will go in your steamer, cover it with a thin layer of the paste, spread over that a cupful of pitted cherries (or other fruit), cover with another thin sheet of paste, then another layer of chei'ries and a cover of paste on top. Steam it an hour and a half or more. Serve with sugar dip (No. 184) or the more expensive hard sauce. 303— Hani Sauce. 1 large cupful of powdered sugar. 1 small cupful of fresh butter. Grared nutmeg. Soften the butter but not melt it. Stir it and the sugar together to a cream as in making cake. The more it is stirred (if in a bowl or dish and not in tin) the whiter it becomes. Spread it on a dish and grate nutmeg on top. Keep it cold until wanted. Good for all kinds of puddings, and can be colored pink by adding while steaming a little red fruit juice S04— Covei'ed ]l«inon Pie. Cheapest kind, as made by the bakers. No eggs needed. S ounces of sugar — 1 large cupful. 3 ounces of flour — 1 small cupful. 1 lemon. 1 pint of water — 3 cupfuis. Grate the rind of the lemon into a small sauce- pan, using a tin grater and scraping off with a fork what adheres. Squeeze in the juice, scrape out the pulp, chop it, put in the water and boil. Mix the sugar and flour toeether dry and stir them into the boiling liquor. When half thick- ened take it off and let finish in the pies. The above makes two large pies or three small. It is necessary to be particular to get the right amount of flour. The mixture is pale yellow from the rind and sugar. For the crust rub half a pound of shortening into a pound of flour, mix with cold water and roll out three times. Put top as well as bottom crust on these pies. 805- Ice Cream With Pure Cream. 1 quart of cream. 13 ounces of sugar. Flavoring extract. Mix, whip the cream partly to froth, pour into a freezer that will hold twice as much, freeze it quickly, and if in a common freezer turned by hand beat it up light afterward, cover down and let freeze again. CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 45 MENU NO. XXI— DINNER. 306— Cauliflower Cream .Soup. 1 quart, more or les8, of soup stock. 1 pint of rich milk. 1 pint cupful of cooked cauliflower. 1 tablespoonful of minced onion. 1^ blade of mace. 1 tablespoonful of butter. Salt and white pepper or cayenne. 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley. Cauliflower left over from a previous dinner can be used. The clear white brotli that has had an old fowl boiled tender in it is beat for such a soup as this. Any pieces or bones from the breakfast or dinner meats may be put into the stock pot with it to make it richer. Also add the scrap of mace and a small allowance of any soup vegetaoles at hand. The cauliflower is to be the principal article. If to be cooked for the purpose, pick the caulifiovrer into little branches and boil it separately in salted water nearly or quite half an hour. Strain off a quart of the stock clear and free from grease into a saucepan, boil it with the minced onion in it, mash about half of the cauli- flower and put in, boil the milk and add that, season with pepper and salt, thicken, if not thick enough already, till it looks like thin cream, with flour-and-water thickening, add the butter, the balance of the cauliflower branches whole as they are, and the green sprinkling of pastry. 20t— Blueflsli Stufted and Baked. Scale and cleanse the fish, clip or chop off the fins, and that it may be easy to serve in good shape drive the point of a knife into it through the bone where the portions are to be taken off. Dry the fish inside and out with a clean towel, fill the inside with the bread stuifing of the fol- lowing recipe, sew it up and lay it in a baking- pan. Put info the pan beside it a slice of pickled pork, a small piece of onion, some salt, drip- pings or butter and put enough water to keep the pan from burning. Bake the fish from half to three-quarters of an hour, basting frequently. Butter in the pan gives the best color and makes the best gravy. When the fish is done take it up on two batter-cake turners and place it on its dish, then make gravy in the pan in the usual way, add pepper and strain it for sauce. Serve some of the aressmg with each portion in lieu of potatoes. 308— Bread Stufflins: for Fish. 3 pressed-in cupfuls of bread crumbs. A sprinkling of thyme and savory. 1 teaspoonful of mixed salt and pepper. 1 small cupful of minced suet. 1 small cupful of warm water. legg. Mix all together in a pan. Let the dressing have a decided seasoning of pepper, which im- proves the flavor of the fish. 309-Squab Pie. 6 fledgeling pigeons. 4 ounces of butter. 1 quart of broth or water. Flour, pepper and salt. 1 pound of pie crust. The squabs can be picked dry, but a little easier if scalded Singe and draw, splitting them down the back first, like broiling chickens, and then cut in halves. Wash and dry them, flatten a little with the side of the cleaver, pepper and salt and flour on both sides, then fry them slightly in the butter melted in the same baking pan the pie is to be made in. When the squabs have acquired a light brown on both sides pour into the pan about a quart of broth or water and set in in the stove that they may stew tender while you make the crust. See whether the flour on the birds has thickened the liquor sufficiently, and add salt and pepper. Cover with a thin sheet of dough and bake twenty or thirty minutes longer. The short paste, as made for lemon pie, No. 204, is good for all sorts of meat pies ; but for a handsome family dish to be set on the table whole a covering of well-made light and dry puff paste is not too good. There should not be enough gravy in the dish, however, to reach the paste while baking, as it would prevent it from rising, but the reserved portion can be poured in when the pie is done. For a family pie of this sort the birds, of course, have to be transferred from pan to dish before the crust is put on, 310— Stewed Tomatoes. Put the tomatoes in a pan and pour boiling water over to scald the skins. Let stand till cool enough to handle, then peel them. Place the peeled tomatoes in a colander that some of the surplus liquor may drain away, after that set them over the fire in a saucepan and break them up with a spoon. Season with pepper and salt; let stew awhile, and add a few fine bread crumbs if desired. The bread addition is only a device to thicken the vegetable, and many people prefer to omit it and make the tomato thick enough by draining first and stewing down. 311— floating: Islands. Small sponge cakes sliced, the slices spread with fruit jelly, placed in ice cream saucers and rich boiled custard poured in to float them, and a spoonful of whippea cream piled on top. The best may be made by the following recipes: 46 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 313— Italian Cakes. Make sponge cake mixture like No. 151, by the same mode, with ingredients as follows: 14 ounces of granulated sugar. 13 eggs. 10 ounces of flour. 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar. Lemon extract to flavor. When ihe eggs and sugar have been beaten up to more than twice their original bulk beat in the cream of tartar, flavor, and lightly stir in the flour. Drop portions of the batter on sheets of paper, either with a teaspoon or through a cor- net made of a sheet of paper pinned to shape and the point clipped off. As soon as the sheet is lull sift xjowdered sugar all over the cakes. Then take hold of two corners of the sheet of paper, shake off the surplus sugar and put the sheet of cakes on the baking pan. Bake in a slack oven until light brown. Take off the paper by moistening the under side with a brush dipped in water. These cakes are for the cake baskets, to have jelly spread between twos, to line molds for char- lotte-russe and for floating islands, etc. ai3— Wine Custard. 1 quart of rich milk. 1 a yolks of eggs. 13 ounces of sugar. 1 cupful of sweet wine. Boil the milk with about half the sugar in it. Beat the yolks with the rest of the sugar until light and thick, pour the boiling milk to them, set ou the fire again and let it thicken, but take off at the first sign of boiling, as it will curdle if allowed to get too liot. Strain the custard, and when cold add wine or maraschino for flavoring. Serve ice cold in custard cups or glasses, or in a large glass bowl with jelly cake floating in it, and whipped cream on top, or in saucers with small, round Italian cakes in the same way, but in in- dividual style. 814- Frozen Strawberry Puiicli. 1 quart of strawberries — red, ripe and sweet 1 pound of sugar. 3 cupfuls of water. 1 cupful of sweet wine. Cover the strawberries with the sugar and let remain some time to form a thick red syrup. Pick out a few of the berries to be mixed in the ice at least. Kub the rest through a strainer into the freezer with tlie syrnp and add the water and wine. Freeze as usual. This is punch f rappe ; but if to be a la Komaine whip the whites of three eggs to a firm, froth and mix them in after freezing and beat up weE In either case mix in the reserved berries lightly just before serving. They are not good if hard frozen in it Serve in glasses. MENU NO. XXII— SUPPER. One of the odd institutions of the city, is a "Cliioago Mush Company," brought into being, of course through the dislike people have of doing their own cooking, or, perhaps, the inconveni- ence of carrying on prolonged operations like that of cooking cornmeal till thoroughly done. The "Mush Company" furnishes the retail stores with pans of cold mush, presumably well-cooked h\' steam, marked into five-cent blocks, and ready for the purchaser either to warm up with water, or slice and fry. Some people will still, probably, continue to make their mush at home. Mu3h or porridge of cornmeal is by no means the peculiarly American dish it is generally sup- posed to be, the co-n-raising peoples of Europe making it not only in its simple form but in dishes of considerable pretentions, under the name of polenta, mixed with cheese, with meat, with herbs and mushrooms and even with truffles, and baked, fried, steamed in shape, and made the most of in every way. Well cooked mush is one of the things most rarely met with, but when to be had, made as good as it can be, is found at public tables to be in better demand than many articles of food that cost ten times as much. 31.5— Com Meal Mush. 2 quarts of water. 12 ounces of corn meal — 2 cupfuls. 1 rounded tablespoonful of salt Where the mush has to be made on a cook stove, a east pot with feet, to raise the bottom an inch from the tire, is the best vessel to use. It lessens the tendency to burn and reduces the waste if the inside is brushed over with a touch of lard or drippings. Put the salt in the water, boil, and sprinkle the dry meal in with one hand while yoti beat with an egg-heater or spoon in the other Put on the lid,' and let simmer with the steam shut in for about three hours. Doitble the quantity needed for one meal should be made and half put away to become cold to fry. For this purpose very slightly grease a pan, press the mush in evenly, and slightly brush over with melted lard again. No matter how little the grease, it prevents the formation of a crust by drying on top. Each quart of cold mush will cut into about ten slices or blocks for frying. 31G— Smoked Hatlilock, or Finnan Haddies. The favorite way of cooking, when it is cooked at all, is by broiling. Brush the fish over with butter and pepper it well, then broil or toast until it is cooked through. But it is equally good this way: Pour boiling water over the fish from the tea kettle, take it out of the water, lay it in a baking pan, brush over with a little butter, pepper it well and bake in ahotoven about eight or ten minutes. CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 47 317— Broiled llvpr. Slice the liver thinly, pepper and salt the slices, die them iu a little melted drippings on a plate and broil in the wire toister over a clear fire. Where there is no convenience for broil- ing over coals the slices, after being dipped, may be laid in a baking pan, baited on the top shelf iu the stove oven, and when the top is browned turned over, and the liver will be as good as if broiled, much better for a supper dish than if fried in fat, and not needing bacon to mane it palatable. 318-Vienuii KoUs. 2 pounds of flour. 2 cnpfuls of millt. J^ caite of eompresaed yeast, or J^ cupful of pstato yeast. 3 teaspoonfuls of sugar. 2 teaspoonfuls of salt. Make the milk lukewarm and dissolve the yeast in it. Set sponge at 9 in the morning, at noon add the salt and sugar and make up stiff dough. Let rise till about 4. Then work the dough well on the table by pressing out and folding over. Roll out the dough in one large sheet as thin as you can, which will be about the thinness of a dinner plate edge; then, measuring with your hand, cut the dough into strips or bands as wide across as your hand is long. Cut tnese again into triangular pieces for rolls, not equal sided but long and narrow triangles. Roll these triangular pieces up, beginning at the broad bottom end. and the point will come up in the middle, and there will be a spiral mark around from end to end. Give each roll a few turns under the hands to smooth it and place it on the frying pan in the the form of a crc-ioent — just the shape and size of the new moon. Brush over with water or melted lard. Let rise in the pans about half an hour and bake about ten minutes. VIENKA KOLLS. 219— Baked Apples. 10 apples. 4 ounces of sugar. Butter size of an egg. Half-cup of water. Grating of nutmeg. Cut oft a slice of paring from the top and bot- tom of each apple, core, but do not pare them, place in a pan, put the sugar in the cni-o holes and the nutmeg and butter on tip, add tlie water and bake and baste frequently wuh their own syrup till done. The syrup at last should be thick as .jelly and may be served with the apples. A bright pan or dish should he used. A sheet of greased paper laid on top will keep the fruit from blistering and blackening before it is baked through. 330-SiionsB GliiKerbread. 8 ounces of molasses — a teacupf ul. y large tablespoonfuls of sugar. 4 oimces of butter — a teacupf ul, small. 1 cupful of milk. H eggs. 1 large teaspoonful of ground ginger. 1 large teaspoonful of baking powder. 1 pound or quart of flour. Melt the butter in the milk made warm, and pour them into the molasses and sugar, mix, add the eggs, the ginger and iJowder, and lastly the flour. It is a great improvement to beat the cake thoroughly with a spoon. It is too soft to be handled. Spread it an inch thick in a buttered pan or mold. Bake twenty or thirty minutes. 231— Brown Ginser Co.ikirs, Good C Quarter pound of buttei-. Quarter pound of sugar. Quarter pound of black molasses. 2 eggs. 1 tablespoonful of ground ginger. Quarter cupfnl of water. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 1 pound or quart of iiour, or enough to make soft dough. Mix the ingredients in the order they are named in, roll out and cut with a small cutter. MENU NO. XXIII— BREAKFAST. 220— About BreadiriK. Breading an article consists in making either fine bread crumbs or the meal of crushed crackers, or sometimes corn meal adhere to the surface while it is fried, giving it a crisp coating. It is usual to dip the article first in egg or egg and water, but experienced cooks have several other expedients to save eggs, such as dipping in the flour and water batter, or in cream sauce, or. when the thing to be breaded is a croquette con- taining eggs already by balling them up in cracker meal without dipping at all. Where the time is not worth more than the material, the dry slices of bread left over should be dried to a crisp in a warm place, then rolled or pounded fine and run through a sieve. Rolls and gems containing sugar will not answer for the purpose, the crumbs soon turniug too dark in the frying. The use and intention of breading meats and fish is to inclose the juices and flavors CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. in the crisp envelope of egg and orumba, to ac- complish which the articles must be dropped into clear lard or other fat that la hot enough al- ready to hiss sharply when a drop of water touches it. The fat is too hot when it smokes, so that the smoke can be seen, and will discolor anything attempted to be fried in it. If properly done, breaded fish and cutlets come out as dry and free from grease as the crust of a loaf Sometimes, when potato croquettes or cro- quettes of chicken or rice, or codfish balls and the like are made accidentally too soft to be fried by merely rolling in flour, thi'V can be finished very satisfactorily by rolling in egg and crumbs. 231-Eels Breaded and Frii d. Eels, eel-pouts, and similar fish can al- ways be had ready skinned for cooking, in the market. Eels of large size should lie split length wise, and the bone taken out, which is done by pressing the fi.sh on the table with one hand while the knife .in the other is guided by tlie spine bone and run along horizontally ou both sides of it Then cut the strips into three-inch lengths, dredge with pepper and salt, dip each piece in an egg beaten with half as much water, tbea in the cracker meal — with cave not to rub and make bare spots, which will spoil the breading— and when the lard is hot drop them in and fry about live minutes. Garnish with parsley either plain or fried and serve with potatoes. 282-Saratoffa Chip Potatoes. Potatoes sliced thick are not Saratogas though generally so called. The true chips are as thin as paper and curl ap when fried. Tliey are used cold as well as hot, and may be prepared before wanted and kept a considerable time. It is necessary to have clean fi'esh lard and potatoes of good quality to get Saratoga chips of good color and the proper crispness. They should be put in before the lard gets very hot, have time to dry out in it, and when yellow should be drained in a colander, set in a pan and salt sprinkled over. 2S3— Broiled Liver and Bacon. It is too wasteful and untidy to broil the bacon, unless in the restaurants, where the customers are charged for the waste. Half the bacon goes away in fat and flames. Fry the slices in a small frying pan, dip the liver in the fat, lay it on the broiler over clear coals, pepper and salt while it is cooking, and serve a slice of the fried bacon on top of each piece. 224— Fried Musli. The mush put away in a can over night can be turned out on to the table after setting the pan a moment on the stove top tn warm. Cut blocks or slices, dip tht-m in egg and then cover with cracker meal or fine bread crumbs and drop them into hot lard or drippings. 225— To Fry Musli Without Breadins. Roll the pieces in flour and let them lie in it a while to become well coated, then drop them into lard or drippings that is liot enough to brown the outside instantly. Thin slices may also be rolled in flour and browned on a greased oalce griddle. 336-\Vheat Muffins. These are very fine and well worth knowing how to make. 1 pound of light bread dough. Butter size of an egg. 1 basting spoonful of milk. 1 teaspoonful of sugai'. 3 yolks — or 1 egg. 1 ounce of flour. Little salt. Take tlie piece of dough — about two large cupfuls — from your light bread that was set to rise over night. Two hours before breakfast work in the ingredients named and beat the stiff batter thus made against the side of the pan until it is very elastic and smooth. Let rise in a warm place about an hour. The nuiffiu rings should be two inches across and one inch deep. Grease them, set in a greased pan, half fill with the batter, which should be thin enough to settle down smooth, but thick enough not to run under the nngs; let rise half an hour, bake ten minutes in a hot oven. 237-Mufflns from the Besrinninff. When there is no dough ready made the muffins can be mixed over night with these ingredients and thoroughly beaten in the morning: 2 heaping cupfuls of flour. 1 small cupful of yeast and water. Butter size of an egg. 1 teaspoonful of sugar. 2 yolks of eggs. Salt. The batter should be too soft to handle, yet not thin enough to run. 228— Corn Batter Cakes. 2 cupfuls of white corn meal. 1 cupful of flour. 2 cupfuls of milk or wafer, legg 1 bastingspoonful of melted lard. A little salt. 1 teaspoonful of baking powder. Make a hollow in the middle of the meal and floiu-, put in all the other ingredients and stir up smooth. When there is no milk to mix up with add a spoonful of syrup to make the cakes brown easily on the griddle. It is practicable to bake batter-cakes without CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 40 greasing the griddle. It need only be rubbed with a cloth after each baking. 339-ChncoIate. 1 quart of milk and water. 1 ounce of chocolate. Boil the milk and water in a small, bright saucepan. Scrape down an ounce aa marked on the half-pound cakes of common chocolate, throw it in and beat with a wire egg whisk about one minute, or till the chocolate is all dissolved. Send it in as soon as made, if practicable; but if kept on hand set it where it will keep hot, but not boil. MENU NO. XXIV.— DINNER. S33— Tomato Soup. 2 quarts of soup stock. 1 cupful of stewed tomatoes. 1 small cupful of minced vegetables. (5 cloves. 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley. Salt and pepper to taste. Little flour thickening. The soup stock may be the liquor in which a piece of beet' or mutton is boiled for dinner, with the addition of other raw scaps and pieces, such as the bones and gristly ends of a beef- steak. An hour before dinner time take out the meat and strain the stock through a tine strainer into the soup pot. Cut a piece of carrot, turnip and onion into small dice and throw in and let cook till done, add the cloves and cup of tomatoes, pepper and salt, thickening and the parsley at last. It is generally considered a reproach to say the soup is thin, and our people have to be educated up to the appreciation of the thin soups of the French. A proper medium should be observed. A spoonful of flour gives the smoothness and substance required without destroying the clear- ness ot the soup. Tomatoes stewed down after seasoning with salt, pepper and butter, are a different article from the freshly prepared and impart a new richness to soup. 333— Fried Bass with Hacoii. Scale and clean the fish, chop off the fins, and if small cook them without cutting; if large, split them lengthwise and out across making four. Pepper and salt the pieces, roll them in flour and let lie iu it imtil the last; drop them into a pan of hot lard and let fry from five minutes up- ward according to size. Fry a slice of breakfast baoon for each piece of fish in another pan and send in the bacon on the fish and a garnish of parsley and plain boiled Ttotatoes. 334 -Boiled Beef with Hor-eradiih. A fat, unctuous, gristly piece of the brisket or "p ate" is best for this, or the rib ends that are sawn off a rib roast. Boil it slowly for at least three hours; have a little salt in the water (which is afterwards to be used to make soup). Grate or finely scrape down a stick of horseradish, put it in a bowl with vinegar and water enough to cover, and use it for sauce. 335— Lnrded Liver with Onions. Calf's liver is the best Take a niece of liver and about one-third as much bacon or salt pork. Cut the bacon into strips about the size of a pen- cil and draw them through the liver with a lard- ing needle, or if no needle is haildy push the strips of bacon, cut pointed, into holes made ' with a narrow knife or a steel. The closer the strips and the more of them the better, and let the larding be done so that the slices can be cut across it after cooking; place the liver in the oven iu a baking pan . with a little drippings and a greased paper laid on top to keep it moist, and cook half an hour or more, according 1 1 size. Serve in slices either with roasted onions (No. 187) or fried onions, or a mild onion sauce poured under. 336— J'an'aaovvei' in Cream. Cauliflower takes from half to three-quarters of an hour to cook done. It should not boil rapidly enough to destroy the small flowerets. Try the stems with a fork and take off when tender. A lump of baking soda the size of a bean in the water will hasten the cooking without in- juring the vegetable. Divide the cauliflower into portions of con- venient size before cooking, and when drained and dished up pour a spoonful or two of good, strained cream sauce (iSo. 106) over each portion. 337— Eks I'laiit Plain Fvied-(Saute(!d.) Slice the egg plant, without paring, into five or six, throwing away only the end parings. Boil the slices in salted water a few minutes to extract the strong taste, drain tbem, and while still moist dip both sides iu flour, then fry brown in a fry- iugpan with a little drippings. They are served as a vegetable, like fried parsnips, etc. 338— Macaroni with Tomatoes. 4 ounces of macaroni. 1 ounce of grated cheese. l{ cupful of thick stewed tomatoes. }^ cupful of brown meat gravy. Salt and pepper. This is a favorite way with the Italians. The dish need not be baked. They simply boil the macaroni and then make it rich, not to say greasy, with the other articles and gravy from the meat dishes. Break the macaroni into three-inch lengths, throw it into boiling water and let cook twenty minutes. Draiu it, put it into a baking jiau, mix in the grated cheese, the tamatoes, the gravy, salt and pepper and, if necessary, a lump oi 50 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. butter. Mix up and let simmer together about half an hour, either in a slack oven or on the stove hearth. It will be all eaten if not made too strong flavored with tomatoes or too salt — the common mistakes. 839— Spanish Puff Fritters. At No. 33 we had queen fritters, or puff fritters of a rather plain sort This variety is sweet, and the harder to fry without burning, but is rich and round-shaped. 1^ pint of water — 1 cupful. 3}^ ounces of butter — }{ cupful. 2 tablespoonsful of sugar — 1}4 ounces. 5 ounces of iiour — a heaping cupful. 3 large eggs. 1 teaspoonful of vanilla extract Boil the water with the sugar and butter in it in a deep saucepan. Drop in the iiour all at once and stir the mixture over the tire till you have a firm, well-cooked paste. Take it from the fire and work in the eggs one at a time with a spoon, and beat the paste well against the side of the saucepan. Add the vanilla with the last egg- Drop pieces as large as guinea eggs into hot lard in a saucepan and let fry slowly. Only four or five at a time, as they expand after a few minute's cooking and need all the room. Serve either with powdered sugar sifted over or a rich pudding sauce. (No. 34. ) 240— Sliced Apple Pie. Use this way only the best ripe cooking ap- ples. Pare and core and slice them thin across the core hole, making rings. Fill paste-lined pie pans about two layers deep. Thinly cover the apple slices witli sugar, and grate nutmeg over. Put in each pie butter the size of a walnut and a large spoonful of water. Bake without a top crust slowly and dry. The apples become trans- parent and half candied. ^41- Baked Indian Fuddiiie. This is the richest of cornmeal puddings, and everybody's favorite. 1 quart of milk or water. 6 ounces of corn meal — a teacupfuL .5 ounces of butter — a teacupful. 1 small teacupful of black molasses. 1 small lemon, juice andgratod rind. 6 ej^gs well beaten. Butter the bottom of a kettle and make mush in it of the milk and meal, and let it simmer with the steam shut in an hour or tMjO. Then mix in the other ingredients and bake about half an hour. 343— Lemon Sherbet. 1 quart of water. 1 pound of sugar. 2 large lemons. 3 whites of eggs. Grate the rinds of the lemons into a bowl and squeeze in the juice. Make a boiling syritp of the sugar and half the water and pour it hot to the lemon zest and juice and let remain bo tdl cold, or as long as convenient, to draw the flavor. Then add the rest of the water, strain into a freezer, freeze as usual, and when it is pretty well frozen whip the whites to a froth, mix them in, beat up and freeze again. 243-Sm;,lI Ci Caki Make the cheap, but excellent and very use- ful cake mixture at No. oO. Slightly grease some baking pans and drop the batter by tabiespoou- fuls to form little round cakes. Sprinkle granu- lated sugar on top of each one. Bake in a slack oven. The cakes run out rather thin and deli- cate and should have plenty of room. Take off with a knife when cold and place twos together with pastry cream (No. 54) spread between. MENU NO. XXV.— TEA. 244-Salt Macl£errl Boiled. There is as much difference between njackerel boiled soft and boiled hard as between eggs sim- ilarly cooked. If you would have mackerel ten- der, as well as of good color, put it on to cook in cold water and take it off as soon as it begins to boil. It is best if it can be cooked to order, or only as wanted, as it becomes hard and curls out of shape with standing long in the water. Mack erel looks best if cut across, uot lengthwise, each fish maliing three portions. Disk the s!du side up and a spoonful of melted butter over it Mackerel put in water to freshen will hardly keep sweet twelve hours unless ice water be used or the vessel set in the refrigerator. It should remain in water at least twenty-four hours, and be changed once or twice. After that if any are wanted to brod, they should be hung up to dry one meal ahead. 345— Salt Macl.eri-l Broiled. Di/ide the fis'h lengthwise, and, if of the largest size, again into quarters. Broil over clear coals, or toast before the fire in the hinged wire broder, browning the inside first Serve the brown skin side uppermost, with a spoonful of melted butter poured over. It should cook ia iivo minutes. CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 51 246— Calf's Liver a la Brochette. Take a tbin slice of liver and one of breakfast bacon for each person and cut them into little square pieces as nearly of one size as may be and place them; on tinned skewers, a piece of liver and a piece of bacon alternately till the skewers are full. Dredge with pepper, place them m a dripping pan in the oven, turn them over two or three times while they are cooking and when done place the liver and bacon on long pieces of buttered toast already in a dish, hold in place with a fork while you draw out the skewers, then send it in. S47— Potted Veal, or Veal Loaf. We have to make such minced dishes as this by rule and measure, lest they be too soft to slice when cold or too much the other way to be good eating: 6 ounces of mixed cold veal — a cupful 1 ounce of bacon or knuckle of ham. 1 ounce of butter. legg. Salt, pepper, grating of nutmeg, and little lemon juice. Shave all the outside off the cooked veal (or other white meat) before mincing it Add a thin slice of raw bacon and a few shreds of cooked lean ham, if convenient, for flavor, and when all are finely chopped add the rest of the ingredients and season well with pepper. Make up in a little loaf shape, smooth it over and bake in a dripping pr n about hall an hour. It may be eaten hot with gravy or kept and sliced cold for tea or supper. Various kinds of sausages are made with part cooked meat and part raw, and with additions of bacon or ham and powdered bay leaf for season- ing. When cold meat is minced there must be a binding ingredient added, else it will fall apart in the baking and be unsavory eating. The preced- ing recipe requires an egg. This is very nice, and firmer to slice with half raw meat and no egg. 348— Veal Loaf, or Potted Veal. 4 ounces of cooked meat^ 4 ounces of raw veal. 1 ounce of raw fat bacon. Shreds of lean ham for flavoring. A pinch of powdered bay leaf. Salt and pepper to taste. Mince and mix all together ; make up in a ball and bake half an hour. To be eaten either hot or cold. 249— Cauliflower Salad. Take cauliflower left over from dinner, or else pull a head apart into suitable sized bunches, and boil them in salted water about three-quarters of an hour, drain and set away to get oojd, Then put it into a howl containing the followiug salad dressing, and when to be sewed dip out the pieces well coated with it and place them neatly in a pile on a flat dish and ornament the edges. 2S0-Salad DressiiiK Without Oil. J^ cupful of vinegar. y{ cupful of water. }4 cupful of butter — 3 ounces. J^ cupful of yolks of eggs — 5 yolks. 1 fablespoonful of made mustard Salt and cayenne. Boil the vinegar, water, butter and salt to- gether in a bright saucepan, beat the yolks, and add to them some of the boiling liquid, then pour all into the saucepan, stir rapidly, and in a few seconds, or as soon as the mixture becomes thick aud smooth, like softened butter, take it from the fire. Add the mustard aud cayenne, and make it ice cold for use. 251— Sally Lunn Tea Cakes. 30 ounces of light dough — about 3 cupfula. 3 ounces of butter — }4 cupful. 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 1 whole egg and 1 yolk. }i cupful of milk. 1 cupful of flom- — 4 ounces. Take the dough either from the rolls or bread or procured from the baker's, at about 1 or 2 o'clock, and work in the enriching ingredients, then add the flour and beat thoroughly. It makes dough too soft to be kneaded, and like fritter hatter. Rise 3 hours. Beat again. Divide it into 3 pie pans. Else half an hour. Bake about 15 minutes. Brush over the top witli a little good butter. Cut in pieces like pie, but carefully with up and down strokes witli a sharp knife, not to crush the spongy cake. Serve hot Excepting only ice cream the pastrycooks produce nothing that is so unusually acceptable as the charlotte russe. Everywhere, from the places of the grand banquets to the shops where it is exchangeable for a 5-cent piece, it is seen constantly in one form or another. I'here are several varieties to be made m tbis article, and since it must appear and is welcome often, we may go a little out of the way to avoid the ready- made appearance of tiie shop article in these we make ourselves. The prime necessity for mak- ing charlotte ruase is commonly supposed to be pure sweet cream. Nevertheless it is not difficult to do without that scarce article. A few months ago a pastry cook from Chicago was sent for to take a situation in a hotel in another city some 600 miles away, his fare aud expenses paid, and he went prepared for work. Yet before a week had passed he was hack in Chicago again— could not work there. There 52 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. were small obstacles in the way, sncU as the lack of a suitable oven, but thesreat, iusm-mountable difficulty that caused him to travel over 1,200 miles for nothing and squander his cash getting home again was, tliey Avanted him to make char- lotte russe without cream. Yet, the other day I weut into tlie ]iastry room of one of the largest Chicago hotels and saw there over 150 individual charlottes standing ready for the din- ner, and being apt to observe such things I thought a large number wore sliglitly different in the color of the cream from the others and looked firmer, and the pastry cook guessing my question said : "I hadn't enough cream, and had to make a cream for the rest " So it shows there are ways of making charlotte russe both with and without cream, which it will be useful to know, for the solid fact of the matter is that at public tables the charlottes filled with the vari- ous made creams, if they are well and delicately made, are received every whit as well as "ihose filled with pure whipped cream ; it is rather a matter of more or less trouble in making than a question of difference of quality, in this and the three or four menus next to follow we will show the various ways of making charlotte russe. S.'iS— Charlotte Ku.sse. Individual size. White cake cases filieu with yellow cream. For the cake take 10 ounces of granulated sugar. 12 ounces of white of eggs— 13 whites. ounces of flotir. 2 large teaspoonfnls of cream of tartar. Flavoring of vanilla extract This is a very delicate white sponge cake. Have the ingredients all cold to begin with. Put the sugar and white of eggs into a brass kettle or deep pan and beat them together with the wire egg whisk for about twenty minutes. If bealen rapidly in a cool place the mixture will then be like good cane frosting. Then add the cream of tartar and flavoring and beat a min- ute longer, then lay aside the whisk and stir the flour in with a spoon. As soon as the flour is mixed out of sight it is ready and should be baked immediately. Lay a sheet of manilla paper on the largest baking-pan and spread the cake batter on it only dejp enough to hide the paper. Bake about five minutes. Lay the sheet-cake downwards on the table, wet the paper and take it off. Cut the cake into pieces that will fit inside your tin muf- fin rings as linings, and small pieces to form the bottoms. Small tumblers or cups may answer as well where there are no suitable rings. Then make the filling. 353— Koiuaii Cream. 1 pint of milk. .5 ounces of su^'ar. 1 ounce of gelatine — light weight. Small piece of stick cinnamon. }4 cupful of thick cream. 6 yolks of eggs. J^ cupful of curaooa, or a wine substitute. Set the milk over the side of the fire, with the sugar, cinnamon and gelatine in it, and beat often with the wine egg whisk till the gelatine is all dissolved, which will be at about the boiling point. Beat the yolks light, mix them in like making custard, allow a few mo- ments for it to thicken but not boil, then strain into a tin pail or a freezer and set in ice water ; when nearly cold whip the cream to froth and beat it in and add the curacoa or other flavoring; fill up the charlotte cases and set them in the re- frigerator to remain till wanted. When to be served take the charlottes out of the tin rings ; the cream being set will hold them together. The preceding white sponge cake mixture will be enough for half a yard square of sheet cake, and a small cake in a mold beside. Where there is no cream whatever to be used for the purpose after beating up the gelatine cream quite light as it cools whip the whites of three eggs to froth and mix in by beating. Pour it into the cases while fluid enough to run into the form. The same cream can of course be set in molds without cake. MENU NO. XXVI— RECEPTION. 354— Consomme With Green Feas. 3 quarts of rich seasoned soup stock. 1 cupful or a can of French peas. To make stock, as it is called before it is strained, two plump young chickens should bo boiled in a gallon of Avater along with some broken up veal bones and a piece of gravy beef, etc., the chickens to be tal;en out within an hour to be used for patties or salad. Throw into tho stockpot after that a teaspoonful of bruised pep- percorns, a small bay leaf, half blade of mace, a bunch of soup herbs and bunch of parsley. When the stock has simmered about three hours strain it first into a deep vessel such as a tin pail or jar, skim it free from grease, pour it without the sediment through a broth napkin spread in a colander or thrcmgh a jelly bag twice over to get it as clear as possible. Then boil it up asain in a clean vessel, add salt to taste, a tablesponnful of starch mixed with water, a little burnt sugar to make tho consomme of the color of strong tea; then wash the green peas in a strainer under the hot Avater faucet, and add tbem to the con- somme just before serving. The peas must be really green. They have a pretty effect in the rich, brandy-colored liquor, in which they will hardly sink. (See Nos. 118 and 131.) CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 53 :55— CIiiokKM Fatties, or Rouchees a la Keine. 1 pint cupful of chicken out in dice. 1 pint cupful of rich cream sauce. SeaaoniugH. Yol-au-veut patty caaes. Pick the meat from one or two boiled chiok- ena, out it into long strips and then acroaa into small dice. Put it into a saucepan, season with white pepper or cayenne, a grating of uutmeg, the juice of half a lemon, salt and an ounce of butter. Next pour over it the cream sauce, No. 165, and let it gently simmer at the back of a range or on a brick on the range top till time to dish up, then till the patty cases with it. If there is no cream sauce ready, it amounts to the aame thmg to add a uintof ricii milk and a spoonful of thickening to the chicken, care being taken not to make it pasty, nor yet so thin that the sauce will run out of the patties. 256 -Vol-au- Vent X'atty Cakes. These are shells of pastry baked witlMut the iillinga, opened and the meat, etc. , put in after- ward. Eoll out a piece of puff paste (No. 53) to about a quarter of an inch in thickness, cut out tlata with a large biacuit cutter, then take a small cutter and cut nearly but not quite through the middle of each one and bake on a pan in a briak oven. The paste rises and the inaide out be- ooraea a lid that may be lifted out with a knife point. Remove the surplus paste from the in- aide, fill with the prepared chicken, put ou the lid and ornament with a aprig of paraley. Proper cutters for these patties are double, the inside cutter edge being lower than the other, so that it does not cut clear through ; and the eha pe may be oval to fit a dish, or any other shape. A round tin cutter may be bent to cut an oval patty. But where large numbers are made there is something slightly exasperating in the primness of these little pies with their little lids, e.S])eoiaily when they are cut with a scalloped edge cooky cutter, and to get away from their prettiiiess we often cut out oval flats, quite thm, without any inside out, brush them over with egg and wa(er, bake and then split them w'ith a knife, place the spoonful of minced chicken on the bottom piece and the top crust on top. aST-FroBs' Saddles on Toast. While the supply of this delicacy is becoming greater every year, frogs are still sufficiently high priced to be accounted an article of luxury. It is very probable that in the course of time the frog will take the pla'je in the summer left void by the long vacation of the oyster. There are two varieties of frogs in market, the small ranging in price from about 30 cents to 150 cents per dozen, and the large at about |1 to fl..50 per dozen. The prices take a wide range and these common figures are only intended tp apprise the buyer of the different values of the two sorts. A restaurant order requires six of the small saddles for each person, while two of the large kind are sufficient and contain more meat. Only the hind quarters or saddles of frogs are used. Those who would be extremely nice in their preparation parboil them a few minutes in the same kind of stock that fish is boiled in, that is water with salt and a little vinegar in it, and then take them out and cook them in the various ways. Commonly at the restaurants they are treated aimply as spring chickens — steeped in cold water till wanted, then breaded and fried, broiled, stewed, or otherwiae ijrepared. Take the saddles out of the water or out of the boiling liquor, as the case may be, and roll them in flour, then in an egg (beaten a little, with a spoonful of water added), and then in cracker meal, giving them a good coating, pressing but not rubbing off the breading, which will not stick a second time. Fry in a pan of hot lard froni four to six or eight minutes. Cut large square slices of buttered teas; across diagonally, making triangirlar pieces ; p'.ace two on a diah, the broad bases together in the middle and points at the ends of the diah, and froga on the toaat in corresponding manner. Oruumeut with cut lemons and parsley. Large dishes have the frogs placed overlapping down the middle like cutlets. For a private party prepare fringed, spiral paper handlea before the froga are cooked, and slip one over the end of each pair of bones placed together aimilarly to the fringed paper handles on lamb outlets. Directions for making these papers will be found at another place. 258— Stewed Com and Tomatoes. Boil twelve tender roasting ears in salted water till the milk is set — about fifteen minutes — then out the corn off the cob. There will be about a heaping pint, according to the size of corn. Take three cupfula of peeled tomatoes, out them in small pieces, season with talt, pepper and butter, and let simmer on the abelf or back of the range, or on a brick on the slove top, till they are reduced to two cupfula. Then mix the corn and tomatoes together, and keep them slowly cooking till wanted. Serve as a vegetable, hot. 259— Fried Macaroni— GenoiSK. 4 ounces of macaroni. 3 ounces of cheese. 1 egg and cracker meal for breading. Take the best macaroni in pound papers; break the sticlta only ouce in the middle. Throw a quarter of a pound into salted water that is 54 CHICAGO HERALD COOKlKG SCHOOL. already boiling, and let it cook twenty-five min- utes. Mmoe the cheese fine. Drain the macaroni and mix the cheese with it while it is hot, that the cheeae may be melted in it. When cold, or nearly so, dip each string of macaroni sep- arately into the egg (beaten a little with a spoonful of water added) and then in cracker meal. A short time before it is to be served make some fresh lard hot in a frying-pan, drop in the macaroni and fry about one minute. Drain in a colander, cut the strings in two, pile loosely on a dish ; serve very hot. seO-Esff Salad. Border of green, sliced hard-boiled eggs in the center and salad dressing poured over. Chop heart lettuce, it at hand, or else tender cabbage or celery, or a mixture, and season with salt, pepper and vinegar, and oil if liked, and place it with a teaspoon as a border on the dishes. Slice hard-boiled eggs and put four slices to each individual dish on edge leaning and overlapping in the middle of the green. Pour over the eggs, either the salad dressing, made without oil, or the mayonaise No. 68. 861— Cold Roast Ham. Steep a small ham in cold water over night if convenient, wash the outside in warm water, put it on to boil and let it slowly cook about three hours. Take off the skin, trim around the knuckle bone, and if necessary to make a neat shape saw off the bone that protrudes from the thick end. Then bake it nearly half an hour. Take it out and press ou to the brown surface all the cracker meal or powdered dry bread crumbs that can be made to adhere and bake again very carefully till the breading is handsomely browned all over. It may be necessary to baste the bread- ing a little with fat enough to barely moisten it. When cold put a fringed paper on the clean knuckle bone and place the ham on its dish, to be sliced cold as wanted. 868— French Cream Pufl's. 1 pint of water. 7 ounces of butter. o ounces of sugar. lU ounces of flour. () eggs— or 7 if small. :i teaspoonfuls of vanilla extract. Bull the water with the sugar and butter in it in a deep saucepan. Drop in the flour all at once and stir the mixture over the fire till you have a firm, well-eooked paste. Take it from the fire and work in the eggs one at a time with a spoon, and beat the paste well against the side of the saucepan. Add the vanilla with the last egg. The more this paste is beaten the more the puffs will expand in the i)Ven. Grease the baking pans and then rub them clean and bright. Place the paste in oval lumps like walnuts with plenty of room between, using a lady-finger sack and tube, or else a spoon and knife to shape them. Bake in a slack oveu about twenty minutes, The puffs will be hollow. Cut them open at tlie side and iiU with pastry cream, or, more suitably for these, with fruit jelly. 263— Glazed Eclairs, The puffs of the preceding recipe dipped into sugar glaze of different colors and flavors. 864— Quickest and Easiest Iclna: or Glaze for Cakes. 8 ounces of fine powdered sugar. 2 whites of eggs. Flavoring extracts. Mix the sugar and whites together in a bowl by merely stirring them with a spoon, cold. Use part of it wbi\eaud semi-transparent as it is, and add a drop of prepared cochineal or carmine to the rest, and also a teaspoonful of lemon juice to brighten the color. Dip puffs or eclairs and small cakes into the glaze, and allow them an hour in a warm place to dry. Flat cakes spread with a knife. 365— Yellow Glaze or loins;. The same as preceding, but the sugar moist- ened with three yolks of eggs instead of two whites. Flavor with lemon. 866— Neapolitan Ice Cream, or Glace Napoli- taine. Three different colored ices placed in lay- ers in a brick-shaped mold, and frozen solid enough to be cut in slices. Neapolitan molds can be bought at the bouse furnishing stores. They are of about the size and shape of a cigar box ; both top and bottom can be taken off ; some have the top lid stamped in a fruit shape like a jelly mold. There is no particular rule as to what kind of ices shall be used ; they may be caramel ice cream, which is brown, or chocolate, coffee or burnt almond, or white pure cream or yellow custard, with a pink, red or pm-ple fruit ice for the middle layer, For example: Make the yellow boiled custard No- 153, but half the quantity may suffice. Also make the white ice cream No. 205, or a corn starch cream, quite white, and for the red make the following. 867— Concord Grape Ice. 4 ounces of ripe Concord grapes — a cupfuL 1 pound of sugar. 1 quart of water. Juice of one lemon. Mash the grapes and sugar together raw, add the lemon juice and water, strain into a freezer CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 55 with all the pulp obtainable and freeze at once. The lemon juice brigbtena the color. Small quantities like the preceding can be frozen in tin pail3 set in a freezing mixture of finely pounded ice and salt in a tub, if kept con- stantly in motion, though proper freezers, of course, are better. When all three are frozen lay a sheet of thin paper on the bottom lid of the mold to make a tight fit; place the mold, spread in the three layers with a spoon evenly, put on paper, then the lid ; fill the crevice along the edges of the papers with a little melted butter to keep out the salt water, then put the mold down in the f reez - ing mixture, cover it well with ice and salt and let it remain two or three hours. When to be served wash off the mold in cold water and wipe dry, take off the lids and paper and place the tri-colored brick of cream on a folded napkin on a dish, or on a silver dish hav- ing a perforated bottom drainer. Where a large quantity of this fashionable ice is made to serve at dinners that last for hours the bricks are all taken out of the molds early, wrapped in manilla paper and packed in a largo ioe cream freezer, there to remain frozen until they are taken out one by one as wanted. 368— .Ansel Food. The fanciful name for white sponge cake — the whitest cake made. The angel food recipe was given sub rosa at No. 2.53. Having made the cake mixture as ' there directed, take bright tin molds hav- ing large inside tubes, and nearly fill without previously greasing them. Bake about twenty- five minutes in a slack oven. Let the cakes re- main in the mold until cold, then shake them out. This cake is better when a day or two old than when freshly baked. Make the quick icing. No. 2C4, and spread over the cakes. Make like cake frosting, No. 60, with choco- late mixed in. 8 ounces of granulated sugar. 3 whites of eggs. 3 ounces, or a li*tle less, of grated chocolate. A pinch of cream of tartar or other acid. Tanilla flavoring. Use common chocolate, and have it cold to grate. Beat the sugar and two whites together in a bowl with a wooden paddle for about fifteen minutes, when, if it has been kept cold, the mix- ture will be white and firm enough to draw up in points. Then add the other white and beat five minutes, then a pinch of acid or lemon juice, flavoring and the grated chocolate. Stir to mix. Drop pieces large as walnuts on baking pans slightly greased, and bake in a very slack oven. Tbe baking is the critical part. They need heat enough to cause them to swell and become rounded and almost hollow, but not enough to melt or color. They will slip oft' the pans when cold. MENU NO. XXVII— GENTLEMEN'S SUPPER 3~0-LittIe Neck Clams— Raw on Shell. Wash the clams m water, using a brush, and wipe dry. Open, and loosen the clams from both shells. Serve five on a plate on the half shell with half a lemon placed in the center. Oyster crackers and a small dish of finely shred cabbage at the side. 371— AiKlalusirtll Soup. This is a brown tomato soup highly seasoned. 3 quarts of soup stock. 1 pint of dry stewed tomatoes — 3 cupfuls. 1 cupful of minced soup vegetables, mostly onions. 1 small capful of butter. The same of flour. Make the soup stock rich with stewing pieces of beef, out small, and some veal or veal bones previously roasted brown to give it color. Fry the minced vegetables in the butter in a frying-pan, and when the butter has become light brown mix the flour in and set the pan in- side the oven for the mixture to brown thor- oughly without getting the least burnt. After that scrape the contents of the pan into the soup stock. Throw in eight cloves, half a bay leaf, a teaspoonful of black pepper and a slice of broiled ham. Let simmer half an hour, then strain the stock through a gravy strainer into the soup pot, add the tomatoe3,'rubbed also through the strainer, and set the soup on the side of the range to slowly boil for half an hour longer, dur- ing which time skim off the grease as it rises at one side. Season with salt The soup should be of the consistency of thin brown sauce. STS— Broiled I'ouipano. The pompano is a Southern sea fish somewhat rare and high priced. It has a decided flavor of its own that suggests the taste of black walnuts when broiled. It has the flattened shape of the sunfish, and scales almost as fine as those of the mackerek Scrape the skin thoroughly. The smallest size, weighing about one pound, may be broiled whole in the wire broiler previously greased. Split the large ones down the back and through the head. Broil the cut side first — eight or ten minutes — brush over with fresh butter and b6 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. dred;,'e with salt and pepper, then broil the skin side till di)De. Serve ou a hot dish. Squeeze a little lemon juice over, and serve cold tartar sauce ill a sauce boat separately, or for indi- vidual orders, the hot tartar sauce in the same dish. 273-Tartar .Sauce— Hot. J^ cupful of vinegar. 1 teaspoonful of tinely minced onion. 1 ounce of butter. Same of olive oil — a cooldng spoonful. Bait and cayenne. 4 yolks of eggs. Little minced pickled gherkin. Boil the onion in the vinegar a few minutes, throw in the butter and yollis and beat until it cooks thick and like softened butter, about a minute. Take it from the lire and beat in the oil gradually. Add the seasonings. 374-Cliapin & Gore's .Soanisli .Stew. 3 tat pullets, large but young. 6 green pepper pods — or 1 or 3 red. 1 good sized onion. 1 slice of broiled ham. 1 can of louiatoes — or a quart. 1 can of French peas. Salt and some more pepper. Cut the chickens into joints, and stew them till the bones could be pulled out of the meat, in just enough stock or water to cover them, to- gether with the six peppers, the onion and slice of ham. Then take out the chicken ou to a large dish, and keep it hot, strain out the pods, etc., put the tomatoes into the liquor and stew down thick, seasoning with salt and perhaps a little cayenne, if the pepper pods have not had full eilect. Make the peas hot in a saucepan sepa- rately. Pour the thick-stewed tomatoes over the chicken, and strew the peas all over the surface. 375— niaslied Potatoes in Form. Mash some potatoes with butter and salt, but with a very scant addition of milk, lest they be too soft. Make up in two pineapple Shapes, mark the outsides with the back of a knife, brush over with a little egg and water — not to make them yellow, but only to bind and glaze — and b^ke light brown on pie pans in a hot oven. Send in very hot on flat dishes. 376-Clab Salad. 6 boiled crabs, common size. 1 cupful of finely minced white cabbage. }^ cupful of salad dressing. Pick the meat out of the crabs, cut all that can be cut into pieces of even size and rub the rest smooth in salad dressing, adaing a little mustard. Mix cabbage and dressing thoroughly, and the crab meat mix in lightly without breaking the pieces. Fill the crab shells with the salad and place them on a dish previously prepared with a bed of cress or other green. 877-Kuiu Omelet— For Three or Four. 6 eggs. A third as much milk. }^ cupful of rum. Powdered sugar. Put the eggs and milk and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar in a bowl together, and beat enough to mix but not to make the omelet too light. Set the rum where it will get warm. Put a teaspoonful of the clear oil of melted butter in the large frying-pan, and pour in the omelet be- fore the pan gets hot enough to make it stick ou the bottom. An omelet should not be cooked through and the brown outside rolled in, but should be shaken and shaped in the further side of the pan, as soon as the edge is cooked enough to fall over from the edge into the middle shaken fur- ther over', so that the omelet is not a cake but a soft cooked mass with thick middle and pointed ends. A broad hiaded knife is useful to help sliape it. Make an iron wire red hot in the fire. When the omelet is done slip it on to a hot dish, dredge the top with powdered sugar, mark it with bars across with the hot v/ire laid a mo- ment on the sugared top. Pour the rum around and set it ou fire and send it in. The sugaring and marking generally causes too much delay for individual omelets in large numbers, and has to be omitted in such cases. 378— Charlotte Kusse. Two- quart size in a mold Lining of lady fingers and filling of maraschino cream. 2}4 pints of thin cream. 1 teacupful of maraschino. 7 ounces of sugar. 1 package of Cox's gelatine — 114 ounces. Put the extra half pint of cream in a small saucepan and the gelatine and sugar with it, set over the fire and beat wjth the wire egg whisp till the gelatine is all dissolved — the quicker the better. Pour the maraschino into the cream, then strain in the contents of the saucepan, set the whole in a pan of ice water with salt in it and whip the cream mixture till it begins to set, when pour it into the prepared mold. The mold should be made ready beforehand. A two-quart jelly mold will do, or a cake mold. Line it with lady fingers placed edge to edge, the edges wetted with white of egg. Ornament the top on turning out with whipped cream or meringue. The less gelatine such creams as the preceding can be made with, and the lighter and spongier. CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 57 they are the better, but as they are then the more liable to break out of shape when turned out, only shallow molds should be employed, the ends of the cakes trimmed off level with the cream and the charlottes kept very cold till the last MENU NO.XXVIII,GENTLEMEN'S SUPPER. a79-Oyster Soup— For Twelve. 1 quart of oysters, or 1 can. 1 quart of clear broth or soup stock. 1 quart of milk. 4 ounces of fresh butter. 1 teaspoonful of salt. Same of white pepper or cayenne. 1^ cupful of crushed oyster crackers. If there is no good clear broth at hand water will do instead. The things to be guarded against are not to get the milk curdled by boiling it with the oysters, and to avoid having the skum from the oyster liquor floating on top of the soup. Boil the stock (or water) in one saucepan and the milk in another. Pour a ladleful of the hot liquor over the oysters in a colander, and when they are drained boil their liquor and what has run through in a little saucepan by itself and skim it, then strain it into the soup stock. Put in the oysters, and just as it begins to boil take from the fire, stir in the rolled crackers for thick- ening, the butter, salt and pepper and then the milk. Sprinkle a little chopped parsley on top when about to serve it. The oysters should not be allowed to become hard-boiled. Take about three pounds of the middle cut of a small Balrnon, and, having scaled and cleaned it, put it onto cook in water that is already boil- ing and strongly salted. The fish should be placed on the drainer or false bottom of the fish kettle, but where there is no such utensil the precaution should be taken to wrap and pin it in a buttered napkin, that it may come out of the water unbroken. Let it cook very gently at the side of the range for three-quarters of an hour. Take it up, remove the skin, and place it carefully on a hot dish. At tbemoment that it is sent to table pour over it some ot the fresh butter sauce of the next recipe, fill the remaining space around it in the dish with a pint of potato boullettes, and send :u some more of the sauce in a sauce-boat 281— Scotch Fish Sauce. Set 8 ounces of the best butter, the juice of one lemon, a pinch of cayenne and a tablespoou- f 111 of chopped parsley in a bowl in a place warm enough to soften the butter, but not melt it, and when the sauce is wanted for use stir together until creamy. 383 — Potato Boulettes. Scoop balls the size of cherries out of large potatoes with a Parisian potato spoon or scoop (to be had at the furnishing stores) and set a pint of them on to stew in butter, or a mixture of butter and lard. They are not to bo fi-ied, but only to be simmered in the melted butter until it begins to fry and brown the bottom ot the saucepan. Stir them when first put in lest they stick on the bottom and get a scorched taste. When done drain and set them in a pan in the oven to acquire a very slight color. Spriukie salt and parsley and shake up. The butter remaining can be used in cooking. The potatoes scooped full of holes will do to steam and mash. 383— Double Tenderloin Steaks. Cut a fillet of beef into S-inch lengths, remove enough of the skin that incases the outside to allow the steaks to spread when flattened, but be careful to retain a good border of the fat as well. Beat down with the side of the cleaver to make large steaks nearly an inch thick. Fifteen minutes before they are to be served brush over both sides with the butter brush and set the steaks to broil over clear coals. They will be medium well done in 8 or 10 minutes. Take them from the gridiron without spilling the gravy that collects on top, place on a hot dish and garnish with out lemons and chip po- tatoes. 384-EsE Plant Fried in Batter. Slice the egg plant, without paring, into four or five, throwing away only the end parings. Boil the slices in salted water a few minutes to extract the strong taste. Drain, dip them iu the frying batter of the next recipe, and fry them brown in a pan of hot lard. Keep the slices a minute or two spread on a pan tilted to one side in the oven, to become free from grease and crisp on the outside. 38S-FryiiiE Batter lor Eke Plamt, Fruit Fritters, Etc. 1^ cupful of milk. 1 egg. a tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 1 tablespoonful of syrup or molasses. 1 cupful of flour. 3^ teaspoonful ot baking powder. Put all into a pan together, the flour last and the powder in it, and a pinch of salt, and work them together with a spoon. It should be a batter that is thin enough to coat the article dipped iu it without seeming to make it all dough when fried. 58 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 386— Fat tlver Cake, or Pain de Foies de Foulardes. 8 ounces of poultry livers. 4 ounces of fat hara or salt pork. 1 ounce of lean cooked ham. }4 cupful of sherry. }^ a bayleaf, pepper, salt, snap of mace. 4 ounces of bread panada (rolls soaked in water and thet. squeezed dry in a cloth). 1 raw egg. 3 hard-boiled yolks. 1 corned sheep's tongue or part of a large tongue, cooked. A spoonful or two of chopped mushrooms. Aspic jelly to garnish with. This is an article of the head-cheese order, not so formidable on trial as the number of ingredi- ents make it appear. In the first part are the articles to be cooked together, the others are to be added to the paste afterwards. Steep the poultry livers in cold water to whit- en them, and remove all gall stains, which make them bitter. Setallthe inij;redients or the first part to simmer in a saucepan with the lid on at the back part of the range, and let remain till a convenient time, or two or three hours. Then mash to a paste. The livers, etc., should be nearly dry in the saucepan, but not at all fried or browned. Mix the raw eggs with the panada, and these with the pounded liver. Press through a sieve. Cut up the red tongue, the hard-boiled yolks and mushrooms, if you have them, and mix these in the paste. Bake about an hour with thin slices of fat pork first laid in the bottom of the pan or mold, and also on top of the liver cake, and a buttered paper over that, and the mold set in a shallow pan of water in the oven. The paste, as made above, can be taken from the pan or mold, freed from fat and decorated like boned fowls. We seem to need some mild laws to make people like such elaborate compounds as the foregoing (which are considered very fine in cer- tain places across the seas and are beautifully incased in jelly and oruamented), or at least to make them eat them, it being a pity that the trouble of making them good should be all for nothing. There were some dishes of the sort put up by the bet3t French cooks in Chicago at their ban- quet last winter, and no doubt but they were as good as could be made, besides being extremely ornaraen^al, yet the way the Philistines, after tasting with their knife points, pushed thom away and took their plain ham and beef instead was sad for the artists to see. However, our fat liver cake is a modified preparation, and instead of truffles has yolks of eegs in it which show up when it is cut as raisins do in a cake. It is nice for a cold luncheon at any time, if care- fully made and kept, and served cold and firm. 38T-Lobstel- .Salad. Pick the meat out of one or two lobsters, all but the uneatable portion, cracking the claws carefully to get the red meat out in large por- tions, and line a melon shaped moid with it, the best pieces at the sides. Mix some finely-minced salad material — either tender white cabbage, with a green celery leaf or two mixed in, or heart lettuce, or celery with salad dressing (No. 350) sufficient to make it buttery and thick enough to keep shape. Fill the inside of the mold with this and press it into the lobster lining. Turn out carefully on to a dish. Spread thick mayon- naise upon the top and decorate with olives and yolks of egg^, and the edge of the dish with the lobster, clams and horns and parsley. 3SS— Frozen Alarascliino Funcli. 1 pound of sugar. 1 quart of water. 1 lemon — juice only. 1 orange — juice only. }4 pint (or more) of maraschino. o whites of eggs. Mix all, except the whites, together cold, strain into a freezer, freeze as usual, whip the whites firm and stir in and beat up well and freeze again. It is a snow-white ice, rich and tenacious like pulled candy. The fruit juices are not essential, but an improvement. 389— Charlotte Russe. Individual size, cases of yellow cake filled with a white cream. For the cases make sponge cake batter (No. 212) and spread it on sheets of paper very thinly. Bake about five or six minutes. Take off the paper by dampening it with a brush dipped in water and cut the sheet of cake into pieces of the right size to line tin muffin rings and small pieces to push down to form the bottoms. The rings should be two and a half inches in diameter and one and a half inches deen. 390— Bavarian Cream— Ordinary. Three oupfuls of rich milk. One cupful of cream thick enough to whip. Six ounces of sugar — a small cupf nl. One ounce of gelatine — nearly a package of the shred. Three whites of eggs. Flavoring. Bet the milk over the fire with the sugar and gelatine in it, and stir till the gelatine is all dis- solved. Do not let it boil. Strain into a freezer placed in ice Avater, and when nearly cold enough to set add half the cup of cream, beat ten min- utes, whip the six whites firm, stir that in and CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 59 bcLit the cream five minutes more. Flavor while beating with lemon, vanilla, almond or other extract, or with maraschino. The cream makes the preparation richer, but is not indispensable. Fill the charlotte cases vritU the Bavarian cream, and set them in the refrigerator to re- main till wanted. Then take them out of the rings and place them on a dish. Pile a spoonful of whipped cream on top of each one. 391— l»ouiid Fruit Cake. 14 ounces of sugar. 14 ounces of butter. 11 eggs. 18 ounces of flour. Mix the above ingredients together the same as pound cake, then add to it: 2 teaspoonfuls of mixed ground spices, mostly cinnamon and mac. 1 lemon grated and squeezed, or some lemou extract, 1 pound of seedless raisins. 1 pound of currants. l{ pound of citron. Mix the fruit together and dust it well with flour before stirring it into the batter. The cakes require from 1 to 13^ hours to bake. MENU NO. XXIX.— BREAKFAST. 293- Oatmeal Mush. 4 cupfuls of water. ^^ cupful of oatmeal, large measure. 1 small teaspoonful of salt. Boil the water, sprinkle in the oatmeal while stirring with tlie other hand, and when it boils up again put the lid on the saucepan and set it at the back of the stove or on a brick to simmer with the steam shut in for three hours. Stir it from the bottom occasionally. The large grained oatmeal is the best and the best liked ; the finer oatmeal is ground the poorer it is and the harder to cook. There are several grades sold. If the large sort of oatmeal is mashed like rice it will scarcely ever burn. When mush of any kind has become burned on the bottom, instead of making the whole potful taste by stirring it up, change it into another ves- sel by inverting it without the interference of a spoon. The upper part will seldom be the worse for the accident if changed immediately. Serve the mush in individual deep dishes, and a bowl set in a plate and a pitcher of milk or cream with it. chickens, the halves are small enouj^h ; if larg:% cut again into quarters. Wash well, and let the pieces lie awhile ia fresh, cold water. If only one or two chickens, put a spoonful of butter and a spoonful of clear drippings, cu- the fat of fried salt pork into a baking pan that tlie chickens will just lie in without overlapping; make it hot, shake the water from the pieces of chicken, dip them in Hour ou both sides and lay them in the hot lat with the skin downwards. Dredge liberally with fine salt and good home-ground black pepper, that will flavor without making the chicken look dingy. Shut up in a hot oven, let cook a few minutes, then baste well. When the upper side is brown turn the pioce.^ over and brown the other. The management that makes chickens done this way snch good eating lies m so covering the bottom of the pan with the pieces that they are lightly browned all over before it has quite dried up all the moisture that runs from them or be- gan to burn; the chickens remain moist and juicy. Take out the pieces onto a hot dish Pour off most of the clear grease from the light brown flour and gravy sticking to the bottom of the pan ; put in a cup of milk and let it boil up. The dredging of the chicken sufficiently seasons the gravy, as the flour they are dipped in thickens it. 393— Spring Ciilcken, Maryland Style. Split the chickens in two by cutting down the back and then through the breast; if small 394— Poached JEarffS. It is no trouble to poach eggg handsomely if two or three rules are observed. Have a roomy vessel with plenty of water, the frying-pan shape is good, but it is not deep enough. Have a little salt in the water. Never let the water boil furiously after the eggs are in, as that breaks them: keep it gently simmering at the side. The eggs break and are wasted because when first dropped they go heavily to the hot bottom and there sticl;, to prevent which set the water in motion by stirring it around with a spoon. The eggs dropped iu and carried around a mo- ment and the white cooks sufficiently to prevent adhesion. Break the eggs carefully into little dishes and drop into the water one at a time. Take them out with a perforated ladle. Serve either well drained in a small deep dish and a speck of butter on top or else laid neatly on a trimmed slice of buttered toast. 295— Fl'ied Sweet I'otatoes. Cut sweet notatoes into slips not thicker than a pencil, and throw them into hot iard in a frying- pan. They are done when they float in the lard. Being sweet, they are apt to get an unpleasantly dark color if not watched and will fry best with the lard only moderately hoti 60 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. */:96— Boston Haht;d Bpans. Live and learn. The adfertiaevs of the canned beans put forth a statement that seemed absurdly brazen-faced to some of us when they said that beans put up in Boston, it was well known, have a superior flavor to beans put up anywhere else — as if beans could be anything more or less than beans wher- ever they might hail from. However, we have since seen it stated by another authority that 10,000 bai'rel.3 of beans per month are cooked in Boston, which is a much larger amount than New York consumes, and Boston bakers say the New Yorkers do not soak their beans sufficiently to make them good. The advertisements may be right, after all, for, as is well known, seeds cut in soak till the process ot growth begins change starch to sugar and acquire a sweet taste, as is the case of barley when it changes to malt. Pick over and wash a pint of beans, and lei them steep in water for twenty-four hours. Put them into a two-quart earthen jar, fill up with water ana bake in a brisk oven about eight hours, or all niaht, to have them warm for breakfast. Two hours before they are to be taken out put into the jar a small tablespoonful of molasses, the same of salt, and a square block of salt pork. Where there is no brick oven the jar may be set in a large iron pot containmg water, and baked in that manner in the stove during the afternoon and evening, and made hot again in the morn- ing. !S97— Boston Brown Breaa, Teast-Kaised. At No. 81 we had brown bread made with bak- ing powder, and that may be made as well with buttermilk and soda. This is the same thing made with yeast. The scalding of the meal is a great improvement to the quality over cold mix- ing. 1 pound of corn meal— about 3 cupfula 1 pint of boiling water — 3 cupfula. J^ cupful of black molasses. 1 cupful of cold water. 1 cupful of yeast, or a yeast cake in water. J^ pound of either rye or graham flour. }^ pound of white flour, a heaping pint. Salt. Pour the Lolling water over the cornmeal in a pan and mix, throw in a teaspoonful of salt, add the molasses and cold water, then the yeast and then the two kinds of Hour. Line two sheet-iron brown bread paila with greased paper, put in the dough and let rise from one to two hours, then bake or eteam for five hours. If steamed, bake the loaves afterward long enough to form a light crust. A good sort of bread is made as above with a pound of graham sifted through a common flour sieve to remove the coarse bran, and the white flour omitted ; or with all rye flour and no gra- ham or wbite. Care should be taken not to scald the yeast by adding it to the hot meal before the cold water. When this kind of bread is sticky when sliced it shows it was made up too wet When the loaves come out hollow or caved in it shows too much fermentation. 398-Fried Apples. Fried apples with salt pork is the restaurant dish, but there is no particular need of the pork in ordinary, unless when the fried slices are left over from making fat for cooking chickens in. Mice good ripe apples across the core with- out paring, throwing away only the end slices, and fry five or six slices at a time flat in a large frying-pan with no more pork fat or butter than just enough to cover the bottom. When the slices are brown on one side turn over with a knife. This is the only way to have the apples really nice, though, it being too slow foranum ber of people, they are commonly tbro\vn in quantities into a dripping-pan and done in the oven, when it depends upon the luck and careful draining from grease whether they come out good. With some kinds of apples it is an ad- vantage to dip the slices in flour before frying. Both methods should be tried. Serve the fried slices neatly placed in flat indi- vidual dishes. ^99— Buckwheat Cakes. 1 heaping cupful of buckwheat flour. 2 cupfuls of warm water. l{ cupful of yeast, or piece of compressed yeast dissolved. 1 small teaspooufull of salt 2 tablespoonful of syrup. Same of melted lard. Make a sj)onge or batter over night of the warm water, yeast and flour. In the morning add the enriching ingredients; beat up well, and bake thin cakes on a griddle. Most people like buckwheat cakes with a little cornmeal mixed in the batter. Eggs are not needed except when accidentally the batter fer- ments too much, when an egg will bind and make the cakes easier to bake. Serve with but- ter and syrup. Naturalists say that this is the kind of grub that makes the butterfly. 300— Cookies— A Kicb Kind. X pound of sugar. J^ pound of butter. 6 eggs. 1 heaping teaspoonful of baking powder. l}{ pounds of flour, or enough to make soft dough. Cream the butter and sngar together the same as for pound cake. Beat the eggs and mix them in, then the powder, add lemon or cinnamon flavoring, then flour Let the dough, after it has been patted smooth, stand on the table a CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 61 few minutes before rolling it ou*. Sift sugar over tlie sheet of dough before cutting out the cakes. Another good kind less rich was given at No. 11. MENU NO. XXX.— LUNCHEON. 301-Colisi>mme aiix Pates d'ltalie. 3 quarts of rich soup stock. A shank of veak A small knuckle-bone of boiled ham. 2 or 3 tomatoes. 3 tablespoonfuls of alphabet pastes. Salt and pepper. Take about 3 quarts of soup stock, as com- monly made by boiliiig any kind of fresh meat bouf'S and fragments, and a small bunch of v.jgetables in water, and to give it color and rich- uess roast a veal shank or other veal bones nicely brown in the oven, basting with a little butter if convenient to help the coloring, and then boil the roasted veal in the stock. Add, for flavoring the ham bone, tomatoes broken in nieces and perhaps a little minced onion, if not ah'eady in the stock. Put in also a teaspoonfal of black pepper and the same of salt. When these additions have been cooked in the stock abont an hour strain it off into a jar or other deep vessel, take off the grease, and when the coasomme thus made has settled, pour it through either a broth napkin or jelly bag without the sediment, then set it over the fire to get hot again. Boil the Italian pastes gently in water for not more than fifteen minutes, drain off and put the pastes into the consomme. For directions for the super-elariticatioii of consommes and thick- ening — which is not ordinarily necessary — see Nos. lis, 131 and 254 302— To Carl Celery. ' The tops of the stalks of celery are made to curl outward for ornamental purposes by slitting them with a penknife as closely as the fringe is desired to be fine, and the slits should all end at an even line. Where a large amount of celery is used every day set on the tables in celery glasses. A kind of rake is used instead of the pen- knife, made by driving a number of the three-edged sacking needles of the smallest size through a soft piece of cigar box wood. The celery ends are combed with this and set in glasses of ice-water to curl at leisure. 303-L.r)bsier in the Shell. Keep the lobster on ice till wanted. Crack the clams, cut in two lengthwise, then across, and servo the quarters with crisp lettuce or other green in the dish, and oil and other condiments iu the casters. Much the same as to the filling as the chicken patties No. 3.5.5, but brown sauce m- stead of cream sauce is used. 1 pmt of chicken cut in dice. 1 pint of blown chicken gravy. K< cupful of mushrooms cut in dice seasonings. Light rolls or mulBns (No. 2.2fi) cut in cup shapes, hollowed out and fried light browu. Remove the brown skin from a roast chicken, cut the meat into squares, season with i:)epper and with salt, according to the saltuess of the gravy, mix with the gravy and let simmer to- gether five minutes. Fill the shells of fried bread just as they are to be served. Garnish with a sprig of jjarsley or friof;ed celery. To make the chicken gravy — supposing none from roast chicken or veal on hand — boil th.^ hones of the chicken in a little soup stock, browu a spoonful of fresh butter and the same of flour together in a frying pan, add the chicken liquor to it, stir well, let boil at the side of the range and skim, then strain free from lumps and mi.^ the chicken with it, as above stated. Send in hoi. 305— KLssoles of Macaroni. These are little rolls of macaroni with cheese cooked, made cold, then breaded and fried. It is necessary to boil the macaroni in full ieugth sticks that the tubes may be kept clear and open. 8 or 10 sticks of macaroni — about 4- ounces. 3 ounces of cheese and little butter and milk. 1 egg and cracker meal for breading. Roll up the sticks of macaroni (pound paper length) in a pudding cloth, pin in four or five places without quite closing the ends, as the macaroni will swell and lengthen in cooking, and boil it in a long vessel, like a drip- ping-pan, in salted water for twenty-five minutes, then set it away to get cold. Chop the cheese, add }-< ounce of butter and 2 tablespoonfuls of milk and melt together in a frying-pan without letting it boil. Take the macaroni out of the cloth and dip and roll it in the melted chciese. It may have to be cut in two for convenient handling. Afterward roll it in the egg mi.-cod with a spoonful of water, then in cracker meal and fry it in hot lard. Cut in 2^4 inch lengths to serve. Send in hot May have a good tomato sauce poured under or a garnish of finely grated cheese placed as a border in the dish. 306— Boned Turkey. Singe and pick over a fat young turkey, and without otherwise opening it, cut through the skin along the whole length of the back, and with the point of a knife go on cutting the meat from the boue on both sides until the hip joints and wing joints are reached. Chop through these with the heavy end of a carving iii'ifo, G2 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING ScHOOL. severing the legs and -wings from the carcass at tlie socliets, and continue cutting close to the breaat bone, pulling out the back lione as soon as it ia free and tak- ing out the gizzard and entrails, and on the ridge of the breast bone cut carefully and a little into the bone to avoid cutting the skin. After that bone the legs and wings half way and chop off the rest. The meat of the legs and wings ia to be tucked into the body, which, when done up, will be a smooth cushion shape. Then wash the turkey in cold water and dry it ou a cloth. Spread it out with the skin side, down on the table and cover with the force- meat of the next recipe; draw the two sides together, sew with twine, put it into a pud- ding cioth previously buttered and tie and pin it securely. Boil the turkey in salted broth or water contaiaing the bones and any other trimmings left from the forcemeat besides for from two to three hours, according to size. Let it cool in the liquor it is boiled in, then iiress be- tween two dishes with a weight on top. take it out of the cloth, trim, pull out the twine, wipe off grease and jelly with a napkin dipped in hot water, and at last brush over with clear, melted butter two or three times and keep it cold. To be thinly sliced and served cold ornamented with aspic jelly in the dishes. 307 — ForCfincat for Boned Turkey and CliJcki'n. The quantity of this recipe is sufficient for one medium-sized turkey that will slice into twenty-five individual dishes. For a large chicken the amounts may be one-half. This makes about three pounds of choice meat, in ad- dition to the turkey. 3 hens, boiled tender. 6 ounces of fat salt pork. 6 ounces of butter. 6 ounces of white bread crumba. 2 raw eggs. 8 hard boiled eggs. 1 cupful of broth or water. 1 lemon. Salt and pepper. Take the dark meat of the fowls, cut it in very small dice and keep it separate. Take off the white meat, chop tine and then pound to a soft paste. Throw in the fat porli minced, the tea- apoonful of pepper and salt and the bread crumbs and mis together, and soften the butter and stir in. Mix the two raw egga with the cup of broth and add the juice of the lemon, and with this mixture moisten the forcemeat It ia now ready for use. Stew over the turkey about half the dark meat mince, and over that spread half the white forcemeat. Cut the yolks of the hard hniled egKS in quarters and scatter some over the layer of forcemeat, then the rest of the minced dark meat, then the remaining forcemeat and egg yolks. Do up the boned turkey thus filled as directed in the preceding recipe. When sliced cold the above shows little dark squares set in a white meat, all spotted through with the yellow egg yoiks. Thougii lengthy in directions there is nothing difficult and the dish ia one of the finest possible. 308-Oy.ster Salad. a dozen fresh oysters. 3 heads of celery with part of their green tops. About half as much tender white cabbage. The mayonaise salad dressing. No. 68. After washing the celery and cabbage throw them into boiling salted water, let boil .5 min- utes, pour off the hot water and drain and chop theiu fine. The green celery leaves acquire an intenaer (;reen in the boiling water and when chopped with the rest give a color to the whole. Drain the liquor from the oysters and boil and skim it Add an equal quantity of vinegar, some broKen pepper-corns, pepper-sauce and salt. Put in the oysters and keep shaking the pan while they are scalding that they may sot in round and jilump shape Do not let them boil. Drain and set them away on a dish to become ice cold. When to be served season the chopped cel- ery slightly with oil and vinegar. Spread part of in a dish or in individual dishes, place the oysters in it aide by side and the rest of the celery on top of them. Smooth the top a little and pour mayonaise over just thin enough to run. Pickled or spiced oysters answer well for salad s above instead of the fresh. 309— Cheese Curd Puffs. 3 ounces of cream curd (product of 1 quart of rich milk curdled with rennet). 3^i pint of milk — 14 coffee cupful. 1 ounce of bntter — size of an egg, 3 ounces of flour^a teacupful. 2 ounces of grated cheese. 3 eggs. Some pie paste for the bottoms. This is a mixtnre that puffs up, hollow like cream puffs, and is made into a cooked paste be- fore baking as follows : The curd must have been scalded and drained dry, as in making cheese or smearkase. Boil the milk with the butter in it ; drop in the flour all at once and stir the paste over the fire a few minutes. Put in the curd and the grated cheese and pound the mixture smooth; then add the egga one at a time and beat them in. You may di*op spoonfuls of this cheese-fla- vored mixture into patty pans, lined thinly with pie paste, and hake in a slack oven; or else cut Chicago heraLD cooking school. 63 out flats, very thin rolled; put a spoonful of the mixture in the middle and pinch up the aides like a three-cornered hat and bake on a bisctut pan. They will open out in baking. Good to eat with apple sauce. 310— Orange . Honey Tartlets. The rich sweetmeat variously known as orange paste, honey, or conserve, or (airy butter, is made as follows: 8 ounces of sugar. 2 large oranges. 2 lemons — juice only. 2 ounces of butter. 3 yollis and 1 whole eggs. Little rose water or extract, if at hand. Put the sugar and butter into a bright sauce- pan, grate in the yellow rinds (using a tin grate and scraping off with a fork what adheres), and squeeze in the juice of both oranges and lemons. Stir up and boil, add the eggs and let cook at the side of the range until it looks lilie melted cheese. Use cold to fill tartleis and spread between cakes. The same kind of vol-au-vent patty cases de- scribed at No. 2.56 are used for filling with sweets. Cut them out vound or in diamond shapes, and cut a small middle not quite through. When the puff paste are baked take out the middle and put in a teaspoonful of the orange honey. 311— Charlotte Russe Make it with white lady-fingers and pure whipped cream. Individual size. 313-WIiite tady-Flnsers. 7 or 8 whites of eggs — according to size. 6 ounces of powdered sugar — a teacupful. 4 ounces of flour — a rounded coffeecupful. 1 rounded teaspoonful of cream of tartar. Lemon extract to flavor Wbip the whites to a perfectly firm froth ; it will take ten minutes' beating in a cool place. Have the sugar, flour and cream of tartar all well mixed together by running through a seive; add them and the extract to the whites and stir without beating till fairly mixed. Fill the lady-flnger sack and tube with the mixture (or use a paper funnel) ; press out tin - ger shapes on to a sheet of paper; sift powdered sugar over plentifully; catch up two corners of the paper, shake off the loose sugar, put the sheet on a baking-pau and bake in a slack oven. Dampen the paper, under side, with a urush dipped in water to get the cakes off. This mixt- ure may also be baked in molds. Line rings, molds or teacups with the lady- fingers, the edges first dipped in white of egg and well pressed toget .er, and fill up with whipped cream, concerning which see next article. MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 313— .Ibout Whipped Cream. Good thick cream, if cold, can be made firm enough by beating with a wire egg whisk to fill charlottes, or even plates lined with a thin sheet of cake, or to spread over a cream pie without the addition of gelatine or anything else, and once so whipped to firmness it will not go down again as long as it is kept cold — provided, how- ever, that there is not much sugar mixed with it. A half pmt cnpfuU of good cream will increase in volume, when beaten sufficiently, to fill about eight of the small charlotte cases previously mentioned. A tin whip-churn is a useful article for the ], urpose, though not essential. It is a tube witli a dasher in it, the bottom of the tube closed, but perforated with holes. Any tinner can make them. It is useful when a bowl of thin cream, slightly sweetened, la to be churned to a light froth for piling on top of a cake, afloat in a custard or as a sort of sauce, as well as or- nament to saucers of blanc mange and chocolate cream. 314— Bavarian Cream— Best. But whipped cream as stated in the foregoing not being capable of carrying much sugar or flavoring a little gelatine has to be added to give it substance. Half an ounce to a quart is suf- ficient unless there is to be an addition of some flavoring cordial or fruit juice, when an ounce to a quart will be the i ule, and four to six ounces of sugar. No boiling is required, but set the gelatine — a broken up sheet of the opaque kind is the easiest to work with — in half a cup of milk or cream on the shelf of the range where it will gradually get hot. When it is dissolved whip the cream in a deep pan set in ice water and pour in the dissolved gelatine while heating. The cream can be then put into molds very slightly oiled, and left to become firm, or used to fill cases lined with cake for charlottes, like any other. 315— About Puff Paste. As whoever teaches cookery labors under a disadvantage when trying to instruct in an article but little known, we have found the re- mark several times repeated in different forms, "few know what really good pastry is, and fewer still know how to make it." There are half a dozen public places in Chicago where perfect puff paste is made every day, and half of them exhibit their wares so that any one may see what puff paste can be when at its best. It is strictly an article of luxury and rather expensive, but not so costly, because light and large for its wei^'ht, when made thoroughly good, as it is when half 64 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. spoiled, in which state it is a heavy mass of washed butter and flour. It is an article that if rolled out to an eighth of ■du inch thickness and put into a hot oven will rise to aljout or over an inch, and be light and flakey enough almost to blow away. As to the uecesKity lor such an article we are not speaking; the mere fact of its being only a lux- ury makes its appearance so rare. But it is cer- tainly a very gratifying accomplishment to be able to mal;e it at will; and then, besides, the one who makes the fluest puff paste perfectly Irom the smi]ile force of hahit ia sure to make the ordinary i ie pa^te, only half as rich, much better than the average, through the observance of the same simple rules in both cases. We gave the plain and simple formula, such as moat pastry cooks follow, at No. 56, and have referred to it since, but have now to mention the points, often of more consequence than the recipe itself, which a recipe does not tell. There are other ways of doing the same thing. The standing rule is a pound of butter to a pound of flour and ice-water enough to wet the flour into soft dough. You may mix the flour and water together with nothing else whatever in them, roll out to a sheet and place all the butter at once in the mid- dle. Cover up with the edges of the paste and go on roUinx out and folding up till it has been rolled and folded six times, when it is ready for use. Or, a little of the butter may be rubbed into the flour as shortening, and all the rest put in the middle and rolled live times. Our rule at No. 53 amounts to this, without weighing in- gredients. Pour a cup of ice-water into your flour, mix with two fingers, and take the piece of dough very soft and patit smooth on the table. EoU it out about half an inch thick. Put lumps of butter size of guinea eggs all over the sheet at the width of two fingers apart, dredge a little flour, press the lumps down to keep their place, fold over the paste in three, roll out! as before and place lumps of butter the same way again. Fold up in three and roll out either five or six times. At five times the flakes after baking will be the more distinct, at six times the shorter and better eating. But the little points that affect success are these : If the paste be kneaded or mixed up hard with toe much flour it will not roll out easily, but spring back; then if the butter be soft it will be squeezed out at the ends and there will be no puff paste. The layers of dough and layers of butter must keep their places and roll out at even pace; that is whv it must be made of cold materials, and either be made in a cold place or be made so quickly on the kitchen table that it has not time to get warm enough to soften the butter before it is finished. Agam, when the dough is soft and the butter in hard lumps these out through and destroy the flakes, and there is no puff paste. When the butter is not ah'eady pliable so that it will roll into sheets easily It should be made so, not by making warcn but by pounding with a paddle or potato masber in a ivoodeu bowl. Those are the particular points. Some add an egg to the flour-and-water paste, but it is doubt- ful if it does any good. No such thing as baking powder is ever needed or should be used for puff paste. It is an improvement when there is a good refrigerator at hand to place the half finished puff paste in it on a dish and do the other three rollings after it has stood there half an hour and become cold all through ; also to keep the fin- ished paste in the refrigerator till the moment that it is to be finally rolled out and baked. Lard of a good, firm, tenacious sort, or part lard and part butter can be used and will mak > nearly as good puff paste as butter alone — a little salt being added — but soft and oily lard will not do. 316— About Aspic or Savory Jelly. The cooks have never invented anything else so good for ornamenting cold dishes and making common articles look uncommon as this. Those who delight in colors and bright objects like to test its capacity for making the table shine. But it should always be preserved in its original condition of something good to eat, and not de- teriorated into a wasteful matter of decorat;ou only. For the real savory .ielly is the jelly formed by boiling meat down till the liquor will set when cold, the jelly, for example, of head cheese, or of boiled chickens when the liquor has nearly all boiled away, and if it is the inten- tion to make jelly of such liquor an extra calf's foot or pig's foot or two will be thrown in at the beginning of the boiling and make the liquor stronger. This being the je'.ly in the rough state — seasoned as soup would be to make it taste good and relishing — in order to change its ap- pearance from dull gray into an article of sparkling transparency it is necessary to clarify it by boiling white of eggs and lemon juice in it and straining it through a flannel jelly bag. The above is the exnlanation of what is aimed at and is to show that the making of savory jelly is not an abstruse and foreign affair, but anyone who takes pleasure in such things finding at hand some meat liquor that has set in jelly firm enough to cut with a kuife can clarify it and use it to setoff a luncheon or supper table in a way that is by no mea .s common. ■The uses of spica jelly wid be understood from these instances.. A dish of sliced chicken or turkey or veal or corned beef, the slices all being cut to some particular shape and size, may have melted jelly poured over, just enough to cover, and some leaves of parsley or cress dropped here and there on the white meat. When cold and set the slices in jelly are cut out and placed on other dishes to serve. Dishes of sliced ehiclcen or boned turkey are CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 65 decorated aroand the edges and on top of the meat with shapes of the jelly colored in two or three tints, cut out with sometiiing, perhaps a fancy cake cutter, or wiih a Imife in diamonds and triangles. The jelly for this purpose is made cold in shallow plattera. Jelly molds are filled partly with thin slices of meat kept apart by cut or chopped hard-boiled egss strewn over each layer, with lemon slices and parsley or celery put in for ornament, and the whole cemented together by melted jelly poured in. The veal or chicken or tongue or corned beef loaf, as the above is called, can be turned out of the mold when cold and the dish ornamenterl at pleasure. Solid articles like the boned turkey, No. 306, can be incased in jelly by fir.^t coating a mold or jar (set in ice water) with jelly, somethin ; like lemon slices being set ia the bottom to keep the turkey from displacing the coating, putting in the cold turkey and then filling around and over it with jelly nearly cold. aiT— To Make Aspic Jelly. To each quart of meat jelly, or chicken liquor that is boiled down so that it can be cut with a knife, when quite cold, allow : 2 whites of eggs and the clean sheila. 1 lemon — all the juice and small piece of thin-shaved peel. 3 cloves, bit of celery or parsley. Salt and white pepper to season. Take every particle of grease off the meat jelly while it is cold, and wipe off the top beside with a cloth, then melt it and pour it through a fine strainer. Mix the above ingredi- ents with it, beating the whites first with a third of a cupful of cold water. Boil it gently for fifteen minutes or more, taking the precaution to set it at first at the side or back of the range to heat genily, as it is liable to burn on the bottom. When the white of egg in it is thor- oughly cooked and looks like gray curd or meat in the jelly strain through a jelly -bag, and re- peat the pouring through three or four times. But when there is no meat jelly already formed make some by dissolving an ounce of sheet gela- tine in a quart of good soup stock, season it nicely, let it get quite cold to remove the grease, then melt and clarify it as above. Make different tints by adding burnt sugar dis- solved in boiling water for amber and brown, and cochineal or beet juice for pink and red. MENU NO. XXXI— DINNER. Extra fine jelly, raoro brilliant than is ever seen in the restaurant windows, is made by put- ting it through the clarifying process twice, allowing a little in the measure for the inevitable loss of quantity in the repeated boiling and filter- ing; and a correspondingly enhanced flavor is obtained by adding a proportion of sherry. 318— Bean Soup— Plain. This is designated plain because the be ans are added whole, like any other vegetable, and there is another way with the beans mashed to make a puree. 3 quarts of soup stock. }{ cupful or more of minced vegetables. liif cupfuls of cooked navy beans. A small piece of lean ham or a knuckle bone. Salt and pepper, thickening, parsley. The stock may be made by boiling a shank of beef and any other coarse pieces in a gallon of water till the meat all slips off the bones, then strain off the remaining liquor. The ham or ham hone is one of the good flavoring materials for soup, but of course can be done without Cut up the usual soup bunch of vegetables small, with care to have a large proportiim of onion, and put them into the strained stock, and the beans previously cooked in a separate vessel. After boiling a half hour, add a spoonful of flour mixed up with water, pepper and salt, and a sprinkling of chopped parsley. 319— Beans fur Soup. Pick over the beans and wash them. Better soaked in water overnight, if remembered in time, but will do without. Put on a small cup- ful to boil in more than twice as much water and a lump of baking soda as big as a pea and boil for two hours. Pour off the water, fill up with cold water instead, and when ttie beans boil up again they will be done and ready for the soup or to eat as a vegetable. Overanxious people can make even beans burn on the bottom by repeatedly stirring them. It 1-1 best to let ati such things alone and not make them mushy by bruising with a spoon Hominy, rice, pie fruits, and a score of articles of the same character come under this rule. 330-Salt Wliiteiish-IiKU- Sanc«. Put the whitefish to soak in fresh cold water early in the morning and change the water tAvioe. Tliis fish becomes soft and hard to manage if kept in water too long. Skin it, cut in suitable pieces, put on in a frying-pan or fish-kettle with cold water to cover. When it bods it is done. Make butler sauce without salt, and chop a hard-boiled egg and mix in. 331-Veal and Oy.ster I'ic. 1 pound of flank or neck of veal. 1 green onion, or onion and parsley. 1 or 2 ounces of salt pork. 1 cupful of small oysters. i{ cupful of milk. Pepper, salt, thickening. Common pie crust to cover. The veal may be any piece that is not s\iitable to roast or fry. Cut inn small pieces and stew 66 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. it an hour, or till tender, in just water enough to cover it. Cho-D the onion with a little of the green and put it in, the pork also cut up, salt and pepper and at laab a spoonful of thickening and the milk. Take it from the fire and turn it into a shallow pan that will hold IJ^ or 2 quarts. Then scatter the oysters and their liquor over the top, sprinkle a little more pepper and a dust of flour from the dredser, and cover with a crust Bake about half an hour. The cru!!t may be made by rubbing a small cupful of minced suet with a hoapin;,' cupful of flour and a pinch of salt, and mixing with lukewarm water, or with lard and flour in about the same measures, mixed up very cold. 333— Coarse Hoaiiny. Is seldom cooked as much as it ought to bo and should be put in water overnight to soften. Wash it free from the flour, which is the part that burns on the bottom, and [lut it on to cook with four times as much water early in the morning. Keep it slowly boiling without ever putting a spoon in it till nearly ainner time. It should either be in a stove pot with feet to raise it from the Are or be set on a couple of bricks. Season with salt and stir up. It is better with butter and milk added indefinitely. 333— Indian Puauins— Clieap. A rich pudding of this kind was given at No. 341. The following, though cheaper, is among the best: 2 heaping cupf uls of cornmeal mush. 2 heaping tablespoonfuls of minced suot. Quarter cupful of black molasses. 1^ teaspoonful of ground ginger. 3 eggs. Mix all together gradually, so as to break all the lumps in the mush; balse about half an hour. A small cupful of cornmeal. boiled in o cupf uls of water or milk with salt will make the mush. 334— Golden Sauce for Puddines. }^ cupful of sugar. 1 small tablespoonful of corn starch. 1 cupful of water. 1 ounce of butter. Yolk of egg. 14 a nutmeg. Break the nutmeg in pieces and put it in the water. Mix starch and sugar together dry and stir them in and let thicken, then beat in the but- ter and egg yolk just mixed and heaten with some of the sauce. Take it from the fire before the volk has time to curdle in it. Strain for use. 325— Squash Pie— Cheap. 1 large cupful of dry mashed squash. 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar Butter size of a guinea egg, melted. 1 egg. J^ cupful of mill;. Little ground cinnamon to flavor. Lino two pie-pans with common paste and di- vide the mixtiu'es into them. 336— Pumpkin Butter- Fine Quality. 3 pounds or pints of dry mashed pumpkin, 1 pound of sugar. 4 ounces of butter. Flavoring either of shaved lemon rind, cloves, nutmeg or race ginger. The pumpkin must be dry, either baked or steamed. Mash it through a strainer, mix the sugar and butter with it and the piece of ginger bruised, or thin shaved lemon rind; let simmer at tlie side or set upon bricks on tbe stove for perhaps an hour. It becomes thick and semi- transparent; can be kept in jars in a dark place. Good foi' the same uses as fruit jellies and mar- malades. MENU NO. XXXII.— TEA. 337— Chicken or Turkey SausMge. Talie the skin off a large fowl by first cutting down the back and cutting around tbe joints to the skin as nearly whole as possible. Cut all ihe meat of the fowl from the carcass without bone or gristle, chop it raw, like sausage meat, and then pound it with a masher in the chopping bowl. Weigh it, and take half as much fat bacon, chop aud pound it likewise. Mix the two .pastes together, season like sausage-meat with pepper, sage aud salt Eoll up in the skin of the fowl and then in a napkin, and boil the sausage in sea- soned broth, with the bones of the fowl in it, for an hour. When done put it on a dish to cool in the napkin it was boiled in, and another dish or other weight on top to give it an even shape. Slice cold and ornament with jelly and parsley. 338- Grape Sweet Pickles. .5 pounds of grapes. 2 pounds of light brown sugar. 1 quart of vinegar. 1 tablespoonful of whole spices — cloves, al- spice, and mace. The solid, dry, white grapes of California will do to make into sweet pickles at any time; the jucier kinds must be taken before they become too ripe. Boil the vinegar and sugar together gently for ten minutes. Put in the grapes, and let simmer in the syrup half an hour. Pour all into a colander set in a pan, put the grape.', into a jar, and the syrup back on the fire, with the spices tied up in a piece of muslin in it; boil ten min- utes aud pour over the grapes in the jar. As with vinegar pickles, Nos. 113 and 113, after staniling a day or two the pickle must be drained from tbe grapes, boiled and pour.d hot CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 67 over them again. Tie down, keep in a cold place. 339— Cliipped Beef in Creaiu. 1 large cupful of shaved dried beef. 1 cupful of water. 1 cupful of milk. Butter size of a walnut. 1 tableapoouful of flour. Chip the dried beef either with a sharp knife or a plane and boil it a short time in the cup of water and then add most of the milk and the butter. Wet the flour with the remaining milk and stir it in to thicken 330- Butter Kolls or Tea Cakes. }^ pound of light bread dough — a large oupfuL 2 teaspoonfuls of sugar. 1 ounce of butter — size of an egg. Yolk of an egg. }^ cupful of milk or cream. 1 cupful of flour to work in. When dough has been made for plain bread take out the cupful four hours before the meal- time and mix in all the above ingredients except a small part of the flour, which will be left over for dusting. Let rise two houra Then knead the dough on the table by pressing it out with the knuckles, doubling over, closing the edges and pressing out again, and so contin- uing for several minutes, till the dough is worked full of air bubbles and light and silky looking. Make out the dough into round balls and when all are molded roll them out flat. Brush one with melted butter, place another on top, press in the middle and place in a baiting pan. Brush over the tops with a very little clear melted but ter. Rise an hour ; bake fifteen or twenty min- utes Butter inside and out in quarters. 331— Apple Jelly. 3 pounds or quarts of apples pared and in slices. 1 quart of water. 12 cloves. 2 pounds of sugar. Use ripe, mellow apples, such as dissolve in the water after a few minutes cooking. Have the water ready boiling in a brass kettle or bright pan and throw in the cloves and apples. Let simmer till the apples are dissolved. Pour the contents of the kettle into a flannel jelly bag, and the liquor that runs through first pour in a,;ain and let all drip dry without pressing. Measure tue clear juice back into the same kettle, boil up, and then put in ten ounces of white sugar for every pint (two cupfuls). Simmer together for about half an hour. Use cold. Keep in jars or glasses tied down with paper. 333— White Butter Spouse Cake. Easy, cheap and useful kind. 8 ounces of white sugar. 10 whites of eggs — or 9 ounces. 4 ounces of melted butter — a teacupfuL }:,' cupful of milk. 1:3 ounces of flour — 'i large cups. 1 teaspoonful of baking powder. Beat the sugar and white of eggs together a minute or two, add the butter, the milk, the powder and flour. Beat up well. Spread thinly on a baking pan, greased and floured previously, and bake about ten minutes. Good also for jelly roll. Does to make when the white of eggs is left over from other cooking that has used up the volks. MENU XXXn I. -GENTLEMEN'S SUPPER. 333— Broiled Kidneys. Sheep's kidneys are the best for broiling; calves' are the next best. Procure them, if you can, with the suet still upon them. Slice them through the fat, then pare off enough of it just to leave a border around the slices of kidney. Pepper and salt them, and broil in the hinged wire broiler over clear coals. They should be fairly done through and no more, and should be turned over only once, that the gravy may col- lect on the top. Dish the broiled kidneys on broad, thin slices of broiled potatoes, buttered, and drop a small piece of butter on the top of each slice. 334— Broiled Potatoes. Pare the largest potatoes and cut them in slices about an eighth of an inch thick. Touch them with the butter brush, and broil over clear coals at a good height above the fire. Try with a fork to know when done. Dip in butter and sprinkle with fine salt. Serve with kidneys, chops, steaks, etc 335-Broiled Mutton Chops. Cut the chops from the rack for choice. The rack is the name for all the ribs when they have been shortened by taking off the breast and the shoulder has been removed. The next best is the loin, continuing from the ribs and trimmed to the same length. Having divided the ribs into chops take off the piece of backbone, cut away an inch of the thin meat at the rib end and scrape the bone clean. Flatten the chop slightly with a tap of the cleaver. Lay the chops on a plate and touch both sides with the butter brush. Brol over clear coals about five minutes, turning over only once. Put a tablespoonfnl of butter into a tin pan, tosether with as much water and a pinch of salt and pepper. Shake together and when the chops are done let them lie in the pan and form their own gravy until the other articles for tlia 68 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL' supper are ready, then dish the chops standing almost on end in tlie dish, with thin, triangular pieces of toast between, and pour the butter gravy from the pan around them. 336-Prawns in Butter, or a la Slaltre d'Hotel. Empty a can of Barataria shrimps (which in reality are prawns) into a frying pan and put m a piece of fresh butter. Shake about over the lire till they are hot through, but they are not to fry or begin to brown. Sprinkle a small table- spoonful of minced parsley over them and a pinch of white pepper or cayenne. Dish the shrimps piled in the center of a hot flat platter with whatever butter may remain in the pan poured around, and cut a lemon in quarters and place around the edge. 337— French Peas In Sauce. Pour the liquor away from a can of French peas and set them, on the stove-hearth to get warm. Boil half a 6up of milk in a small sauce- pan with a teaspoonful of butter and half a tea- spoonful of salt Mix a teaspoonful of flour in a cup with cold milk and use it to thicken the other. When this cream sauce has boiled a minute try it to see whether it is scorched, and, if not, put the peas into it and let them become thoroughly hot. Dish them as a vegetable to go with tlie fore- going me er in scollops or deep dishes or a tureen. 338— Sweet Omelet with Jelly. For individual omelets break for each dish two egKS and put into the bowl with them about two tablespoonfuls of cream. Beat to mix, but not make it too light. Put a tablespoouf ul of the clear part of melted butter into the frying pan, pour in the omelet without waiting for the butter to get hot and discolored, let cook gradually, shaking it frequently to the further side of the pan until the thin edge, forced upward, falls over into the middle. When it is nicely browned and the upper side just set, put currant Jelly, or other fruit jelly, in a long line in the middle that is made hollow for the purpose in the side of the pan. Roll over so as to shut in the jelly, slide it smooth side up onto a hot dish. Dredge pow- pered sugar on top and mark it with crossbars by touching the sugar with a hot wire. 339— "Mauls of Honor." However carefully we may try to set down the quantity of any given article that should be pro- vided for the entertainment of about half a dozen people, it must be owned that an impossibility arises when it is required to say how many Maids of Honor a party of gentlemen ought to devour at one sitting, if, indeed, they ought to be allowed to have any. But as Maids of Honor have be- come so uncommon at these entertainments, per- haps a little e.s-pIanation had better be made. We have among our collected facts and scraps a little menu of one of Washmgton's dinners, not- a state affair, but small and reherohe, where perhaps General Washington sat at the head of the table and Lady Martha did the honors at the other end. There is green goose as the piece de resistance, olives are set out among other things, and in two places, both on the right hand and on the left — not of the table, but in the menu — are Maids of Honor. We never serve Maids of Honor for dmner or supper in any hotel or res- taurant nowadays, but — Well, we have another menu of one of Ben- jamin Franklin's dinners that is almost a fac- simile of the other, but has roast forequarter of lamb in place of the green goose, and in the places occupied by the Maids of Honor in that we find dishes of cheesecakes in this. Now, per- haps, some reader will remember that cheese- cakes, than which there is nothing in the pastry department better, used to be ever so long ago great favorites with those who gave entertainments to a few friends, and among the varieties of little tarts that bore the name one kind was called Maids of Honor. None of us can tell why. The only peculiarity that made these cheese- cakes different from the common seems to be in the use of the lightest puff-paste to line the patty-pans with instead of a plain and unaspir- ing short paste, making a frilled-edged and be- ruifled article of much more frivolous appear- ance than the steady everyday sort of cheese- cake. The following preparation does for the filling of both kinds, those made with fine puff- paste and those with common short, or with sweet tart paste. 340— Cheesecakes. Procure a calf's rennet, such as the cheese- makers use, from the butcher, put a piece the size of two fingers into a vial, fill up with water. When it has stood a few hours strain the rennet- water into a pan of new milk, and stir to mix. In two or three hours the milk will turn to curds and whey. Set the pan over a slow fire to get hot without scorching at bottom, and without stirring. When at the boiling point pour the curd into a napkin set in a strainer, tie and hang up to drip dry. This curd is good for a number of excellent articles. For cheesecakes take: 12 ounces of curd — product of 4 quarts milk. 4 ounces of sugar — f^2 teacupful. 3 ounces of butter — same measure. 4 yolks of eggs. Lemon rind grated, or lemon extraci Grated nutmeg. Pinch of salt. Hub the curd, as taken from the draining cloth, through a flour sieve, mash it smooth, add the other ingredients and pound them all to- gether. Line patty-pans with paste, nearly fill with the mixture, bake about fifteen minutes. The curd mixture, though seemingly too firm at CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 69 first, melts and puffs up in the oven. Dredge powdered sugar over the tops when done. As substitutes for rennet curd, which is aa sweet as pounded almonds, the curd of sour milk and the curd of a custard that is spoiled through letting it boil, can be used if prepared by scald- ing and draining in the same way, but will not be quite BO good. MENU NO. XXXIV— BREAKFAST. 341— Melon Salad. Pare the rind from half a musk melon ; out the melon slices to sizes like sliced cucumbers; place in a bowl ; dredge with salt and pepper and shake about with 3 or 4 tablespoonsful of olive oil. When that is well distributed sprinkle with vine- gar, a spoonful at a time, enough to flavor and moisten without leaving any residue iu the bot- tom of the bowl. Serve heaped in the middle of a flat platter and garnish with green. Takes the place of fruit at the beginning of breakfast. 343— Fried Oysters— SiiiKle Breaded. Dry the oysters by pressing with a napkin: drop them into beaten eg^^ in which is a little salt, and out of that into cracker meal. Give them a good coating by pressing with care, not to rub or leave a bare place for the grease to get in. Drop them singly into a frying-pan of hot lard. Pry brown in 3 or 3 minutes. Dish neatly in the middle of a hot platter, with a quartered lemon and sprigs of parsley. 343— Fried Oysters— Double Breaded. Out of their own liquor into cracker meal, coat well, dip in beaten egg and then in cracker meal again. Fry four or five minutes. Oysters look twice as large as they really are when double breaded. Various fancies are made known by different people in regard to fried oysters, the commonest being a preference for corn meal to dip them in instead of cracker meal. Fried oysters never look very well done that way and are only served so when so ordered A hotelkeeper of con- siderable traveling experience used to say the best he ever ate were breaded with white of egg and cracker meal and patted down flat, then served set on edge with very small and thin pieces of buttered toast between, like so many ' lamb chops set up in a dish. 344— Corn Bread— Good Common. 1 cupful of white corn meal. 1 large cookins-spoonfnl of melted lard. 1 cupful of boiling water. 1 small cupful of cold water or milk. 1 egg. Little salt. 1 teaspoonful of caking powder. Scald most of the meal with the boiling water- which ia the most essential thing in making first- rate corn bread — then add the other ingredients, the powder last, and beat up thoroughly. Make baking pan hot in the oven without greasing it. When the batter is poured into a pan hissing hot it never sticks, and there will be no discoloration of burnt grease. It should be over an inch deep in the pan and bake about half an hour. The top crust should be baked quickly that the bread may rise with a smooth top, not cracked open. Beally good corn bread makers are about as scarce as are the makers of fine puff-paste. Few aeem to know how good corn bread can be, and how quickly skillful hands can make the people leave all other kinds of bread and prefer this. Buttermilk and aoda can be used instead of the cold milk and powder. 345— Ijiver and Salt Fork, witli Gravy. Cut three slices of salt or pickled pork, then divide them, making six pieces, and fry them on both sides. Take out the pork and fr}' six slices of liver in the fat, and pepper it well while cook- ing. When done on both sides take out the liver and make gravy in the pan by putting in a table- spoonful of flour and stirring it about over the fire until it ia well mixed with the fat and gravy, then pour in a cup of water, and let boil up. Strain this sauce over the liver and pork in the dish. If not salt enough from the pork, aait should be added. 346— Hominy Grits, Fine Hominy or Sauip. Experiments tried for the purpose with this troublesome article have proved that if it ia washed free from the flour that is in it, put into water that is already boiling, and kept in motion till It boils again, it may then be left to simmer with the lid on for the neceaaary two hours with- out danger of burning; and also that It does as well and cooks as quickly without previous soak- ing ill water as with it Use three cupfuls of water to one of hominy, and add milk and salt when it boils dry. There are such things aa double kettles for boiling these mealy articles of diet in, but few care to provide them. Hominy grits cooked as above, and perhaps with a little butt r stirred in, is served either as mush with miik, or as a vegetable, with a diah of liver and salt pork. 347— Baked Bananas. Peel a dozen bananas and split them in halves lengthwise. Lay these strips iu close order m a baking pan, strew sugar over, and some bits of fresh butter, and grate a little nutmeg. Bake in a moderate oven about 20 minutes. They should come out glazed, and if not syrup enough in the pan, a little should be mixed in a cup to baste them with. Serve aa a last course with cake and milk. 70 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. MENU NO. XXXV.— LUNCHEON. 348-LeK ot Bunt Soup. 10 pounds of sbin of beef. 4 quarts of water. 1 medium onion. 1 ounce of butter. A bunch of soup vegetables. 1 tomato or some catsup. Salt, pepper, cloves, flour. BreaU the marrow bone and cut the meat in pieces, simmer them in the gallon of watei' till it is reduced to two quarts. Skim when it iirst boils, and then throw in six cloves. When the meat is quite done tender strain off the liquor into another saucepan and set it to boil again. Cut the onion across and across into little squares, and fry it in the butter in a frying-pan, but only till it is yellow and not burnt; then put in a ta- blespoonf ul of flour and stir it up with the butter and onion and set the pan in the oven for a min- ute or two to brown it for thickening. Cut the soup bunch vegetables into little squares, and throw them into the boiling broth. Chop some of the lean meat, about enough to fill a teacup, and put that in and then the browned flour and onion out of the frying-pan. Let boil gently for about half an hour. Season with pepper and salt to taste and add at least either a chopped tomato, a spoonful of catsup, or a quar- ter of a lemon cut small. 349— OystiT Pies. The individual oyster piss of this sort at the restaurants are made of about the size of a common saucer and contain a dozen or more of small oysters. They can be made smaller, of course, to suit other lo- calities and also larger to admit of division. Lay a very thin crust of common pie paste on the plate, putin the oysters and their liquor, dredge with salt and pepper, drop in a piece of fresh butter, cover with a thin top crust and bake quickly in a brisk oven. Serve the pie in a soup plate and pour a little thin oyster sauce or milk stew liquor around it. 350— Potatoes Baked in Milk. Or Dutch baked potatoes. The excellence of potatoes cooked this way is dependent upon slow baking to evaporate the milk without burn- ing it. Cut enough potatoes in thick slices to half fill a two-quart pan or dish. Drop in butter the size of an egg, in little bits, a teaspoonf ul of salt and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, then fill up the pan with milk and bake for two hours. The milk remaining in the pan should by that time be as thick as cream, ana the dish should be light brown on top. 351-Cnrned Beef In Jelly. Take some streaked pieces of corned beef, either thin flank or brisket with the bones re- moved, wabh in cold water, then roll up to about the thickness of a wrist, and t.e tightly with sev- eral turns of twine. Boil the beef gently for at least three hours, then set it away to get cold. Slice the rolls, lay the slices on a iarge platter, and pour clear aspic jelly (No. olT), just enough to cover them. The jehy should be only just warmed sufficiently to run, as if hot it will melt the fat and make a bad appearance. When again cold and set cut out tlie slices with the jelly coat- ing them, place on another platter, and ornament with parsley, cress, cooked beets, or shred pepper pods. 352— I'nmatoes in Mayonaise. Select smooth apple tomatoes, pare them, without scalding, with a sharp knife, out eacli one in three or four slices, but leave them in place, the tomatoes appearing whole in the dish. Keep cold till wanted, then serve with a spoonful of mayonaise dressing (No. (58) on top of each tomato, and a border of shred lettuce, cress or other salad green around the dish. 353— Apjile SoniHe. On account of the scarcity of culinary terms, the word souffle has to stand for a great number of hght articles that may have very little resem- blance to eaoli other. This consists of a border of dry stewed apple raised in a iarge dish or an ice cream saucer, as the case may be, the hollow middle flUed with boilad custard and whipped white of egg and sugar, like the frosting on lemon pies, piled on top. It need not be baked, but the top may he browned by holding a red hot shovel over it or on the shelf in the ovea Serve cold. 354— Wafer Oiiigerbread. 1 cupful of butter. 2 cupfuls of light-brown sugar. 1 cupful of milk. 4 cuptuls of flour, 1 teaspoonful of ground ginger. Warm the butter and sugar slightly and rub them together to a creanL Add the milk, gin- ger and flour. It makes a paste like very thick cream. Spread a thin coating of butter on the baking pans, let it get quite cold and set, then spread the paste on it no thicker th»n a visit ing card, barely covering the pan from sight. Bake in a slack oven, and when done cut the sheets immediately into the shape and size of common cards. This is also known as euchre gingerbread, is serves in packs and eaten be- tween games. MENU NO. XXXVI— DINNER. 355— Pure Soups. A puree is a pulp of meat, vegetables or fruit pressed through a seive. Mashed potato is a puree of potatoes, technically. A number of soups are made by thickening them to the consistency of gravy with these smooth pastes, CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. such as puree of chicken, rabbit, etc. , and puree of turnips, peaa and beans As these soupa are imperfect when the pure- sinlis in them lilie a sediment in the plates, leave ing the liquor thin and clear, a number of pre- cautions and expedients are generally attached to the directions for making them, to the extent of causing them to appear very formidable and difficult, as, for instance, it is said the soup must never boil after the puree is added, but be conatantly stirred. In regard to the present example, only two little points need be made, and nothing is easier ihan to produce this favorite soup in perfection; Be sure that the beans are cooked perfectly, to a state of musMness, before they are maslied, and use, beside, a very little flour thicken- ing in the soup. The bean purae Trill then never sink aa long as the soup is kept hot whether it boila or not. The aame hints apply to all vegetable purees. 366— Puree of Bean Soup with Crusts. The special aeasonings that make this soup good are mustard, butter aud minced red pep- per, to be added at last. A little of the liquor from the boiling corned beef or a knuckle bone of ham will improve the flavor. 2 quarts of soup stock. 1 cupful of nai y beans. 1 tablesooonful of minced onion. Butter size of an egg (optional). 1 teaspoonful of made mustard. Parsley, salt, little ijiinced red pepper. Make the soup atock by boiling almost any kind of meat and marrow bones in a gallon of water, with the usual soup bunch of various vegetables in it, untill the liquor is reduced nearly one-half. Then strain it and skim off the fat. Boil the beans as directed at No. 319, with the pinch of soda to help dissolve them, and when perfectly soft mash them through a solve or gravy strainer. Have the stock boiling; pour it to the puree gradually and stir to mix. Throw in the minced onion. Set on the side of the range or on brioiis on the stove top, and let simmer 1.5 or 20 minutea. Sea- aon as already indicated. Add a spoonful ot thickening along with the mustard. Sprinkle parsley over the surface. Serve with crusts. ■357— Conde Crusts for Soup. It is a common fault to make these large and unsightly. When, in addition, they are burned in the oven, they spoil any soup, however well made. Shave away the dark crust from cold rolls or slices of bread ; cut the bread in neat, dice shapes of even size, and toast it in a pan in the oven to a light brown color all over. Pour from six to twelve in each soul) plate before the soup. It is better not to add these crusts to the soup in the pot, as they dissolve and give it a bad apps.ir- ance. 358— Boilrd Codlisli, with Oyster Sauce. Boil in plain salted water generally about half an hour, or until the meat of the iish will leave the back bone. Serve with white oyster sauce. 359-WliitB Oyster Sauce— Commoi 1 cupful of stock, or liquor from boiling fish. 2 dozen oysters and their liquor. Butter, size of an egg. 1 tablespoonful of flour. Have the fish liquor boiling, and pour it to the oysters to shrink them, strain the liquor away from them and boil it. Skim, stir in the flour madeinto thickening with a little water, then the butter, and at last the oysters. As soon aa it be- gins to boil again take from the fire before the oysters become hard 360— Koast Turkey, Willi Cranberry .«iauce. Choose a small, fat hen turkey or young but full-grown gobbler for straight roasting, as the largest turkeys are tough unless boiled before be- ing roasted, and a fowl of any kind is never quite so good done that way as if cooked entirely in the oven. Singe, pick over and wash the turkey and truss it with the legs in the body aud wings bent under the back. Put it in a pan with a tablespoonful of salt, a cup of water and any ends of beef- steak or trimmings of roasts that can be spared to enrich the pan gravy. There will be required, also, a cupful of sweet drippings from the pre- vious day's roasting or fat from the soup atock or lard or butter. Boast the turlioy about an hour and a half. Baste frequently with the liquor from a corner of the pan. Aa soon as it has began to brown lay a greased sheet of paper on top to keep it from blistering. Roll the turkey over occa- sionally that it may color all over alilie, but do so without ever sticidng a fork into the meat. It is a good sign that a turkey is done when little jets of steam burst out of the breast and thick parts. While the turkey is cooking boil the gizzard and heart in a little water, and when done cut them into dice. Let the pan gravy dry down after the turkey is taken outuntiltliefatcan be poured off quite clear. Pour a cup of water into the pan and let it boil to dissolve the brown glaze, then stir in a spoonful ot flour thickening. Strain the gravy into a bowl, and add the out up gizzard to it. Serve some of this brown gravy with the turkey and cranberry sauce in indi- vidual sauce dishes separately. 361— Crrinberry Sauce for Turltey. 3 large cupfuls of cranberries. 1 small cupful of light brown sugar. 1 cupful of water. Wash the berries, put them in a saucepan with 72 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 363— Browned S'weet Potatoes- If the potatoes are of good size pare them be- fore cooniag, split lengthwise and steam them until done. Turn them into a baliing pan, sprinkle with salt, moisten wiih spoonfuls of fat from the roast meat pan and bake them a handsome brown. Sweet potatoes will not bake to a rich color and be really good un'ess they are first steamed or boiled thoroughly done. Thin and stringy po- tatoes can be steamed first and peeled afterward. the water, spread the sugar oyer the top, cook wilh a lid on for half an hour. Pour off a glass- ful or two of the clear syrup, if wanted for cold jelly, before stirring up the berries, then mash | them with a spoon. Sometimes, from motives of economy, the stewed cranberries are mixed with an equal amount of brown sauce from the turkey pan on the same plan as some of the game sauces made with fruit iu gravy. 363— Gookins: Sweetbreads and Brains. It IS generally agreed that a knowledge of a number of wliat are called side dishes iu private houses and entrees in hotels is a desirable thing in a cook, if only to break up a dreary repetition of dishes in the daily menu in one case, or to surprise the home-coming head of the family with a little freshness and variety in another, yet this knowledge is hard to acquire, not through the real difficulty or complication of the matter itself, but because of the incomprehensible nature of all printed directions that include some three or four, or more, separate operatious to produce one not very important result, causing the mystified and impatient reader to say, with the girl in the play, "Oh, we'll just stuff 'em with beans and ingnn-f, and let'em stew." Thus we have known professed cooks in good hotels, who never mastered more than ten or twelve of these entrees, which they had to shuffle up and deal out as variously as they could, while the articles, however placed, were always recog- nizable aa the same. Should we here, in directing the making of the following little dish, which really in the main part talies but a few minutes, begin at the begin- ning, with steeping the sweetbreads in cold water, there would be in all five different opera- tions to perform to prepare two sweet- breads for the table. However, if the learner will remember that both sweetbreads and brains are always boiled first, before any of the little dishes are made of them, and that they may and ought to be boiled the day before they are wanted, and be a'ready cold to cut up for side dishes, then the dirjc- tions are shortened one-half and may begin to appear plain. Steep and wash the sweetbreads in cold water, then boil them until tender. If calves' sweet- breads, tliey will be done in half an hour; if beef sweetbreads they will take twice or thrice as long. There should be a little salt and vinegar, or lemon juice in the water tliey are boiled in. When dona take them up on a d^sh, and set them away to get cold. Tlie liquor may be used instead of water to make the sauce for them afterward, the fat being removed when it has become cold. With brains, proceed in the same way, washing away the blood before cooking, and after tliey are boiled picking them over, and peeling off the dark places. Brains need to simmer geutiy, in salted water only, twenty or thirty minutes. 364--Kaeout of Sweetbreads and MusUrooals. 3 or 3 large sweetbreads, or 1 pound. 3^ can of mushrooms. 2 ounces of butter — size of an egg. 1 tablespoonful of floar. Little minced onion and ham for seasoning. Juice of 1 lemon, Cayenne and salt Fried shapes of bread for the border. Take the sweetbreads already cooked and cold, and cut them into large dice. Make the sauce for them in a deep saucepan, first putting in half the butter, a large teaspoonf ul of minced onion and a very thin slice of ham, and when these are cooked enough for flavor without browning nut in the flour and stir the mixture over the fire until it begns to color. Then add gradually the mushroom liquor and a cupful of the liquor the sweetbreads were boiled in; let it boil up and become thick. Add a pinch of cayenne. Next, melt the other piece of butter in a frying-pan, put iu the mushrooms and the cut up sweetbreads and shake them about over the fire until they begin to show color; take it off, squeeze in the juice of the lemon and then strain in the thick sauce from the other vessel. Diah them heaped up in the center of a flat platter, or of small dishes for individual orders, and place a border of thin shapes of bread fried in lard around the edge. 365— Fried Crusts or Shapes for Garnisliine. In a case where economy is not in question the handsomest shapes for a border can be made by taking a stale, long and narrow loaf of bread and trimming down on both sides to some pattern {like a piece of carpenter's molding), so that when it is sliced up with a sharp knife the slices will be heart-shaped, or leaf or club or spade- shaped, etc., and all alike. Simple triangles may be set up on edge around a large dish, and fastened to stand by dirping the bottoms in egg and then making the dish hot enough to dry it This makes a raised case, into which a ragout like that of the foregoing recipe may be poured. Or a long and slender leaf shape may be laid on CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 73 the small dish, projecting well over the side, and the ragout or fricassee dished upon the end of it. AU these shapes are first to be fried, either in lard or the clear part of melted butter. They take but about one minute in the fat, when it is hot, and need care to have them all of a nice, even color. Cold rolls and slices can be used in similar ways. aOG-Stiiffed Onions. 6 or 8 large onions. 14 cupful of sausage meat )4 cupful of bread crumbs. 1 egg. 1 cupful of brown sauce. Pepper and salt These have to be prepared early, as it takes a long time to cook onions tender. Peel the onions and boil them in water 10 minutes; both to extract some of the strong taste and to make the inside easy to remove. Then drain them and push out about half the insides; chop these and mix with them the sausage meat, and bread crumbs, and egg, and a good pinch of black pepper, and little salt. Stuff the onions with the mixture and heap it a little on top to use up the surplus. Place them in a deep pan that will go in your steamer and let steam about an hour and a half. Then brown them off in the oven with the cup of gravy poured in the pan. When not convenient to steam they can be simmered in gravy in the oven if kept covered with a greased sheet of paper. Any kmd of minced cold meat, or part raw and part coolied without an egg, can be made into a savory side dish in the above manner. See hints at Nos. 247 and 348. 367— Indian Fruit Pudding:. 3 cupfuls of milk or water — l).^ pints. 1 cupful of yellow coru-meal — 6 ouncea 1 teacupful of minced suet — 3 ouncea. 3^ teacupful of black molasses — 3 ounces. 3 eggs. Little salt. 1 cupful of seedless raisins — 1 ounces. Same of currants. J^ teaspoonf ul of ginger, cinnamon, or grated lemon rind. Make mush with the meat and water and let it cook well with the steam shut in for an hour or two. Then mi.'c in all the other ingredients, the fruit previously dusted with flour, and bake it iu a pan or moid about an hour. Cover with greased paper to keep the fruit from blistering. Three heaping cups of corn-meal muah ready made will do as well. The above makes a quart of pudding. 36S~-ljenion Butter Sauce for Puddings 14 cupful of sugar. 1 tablespoonfnl of corn starch. 1 cupful of water. Butter size of a walnut ' 1 small lemon. Yolks of 3 eggs. Grate the rind of the lemon into the sugar, put in the starch and mix them well together dry, stir them into the water already boiling in a saucepan. Add half the juice of the lemon and the butter. Pour some of the sauce to the yolks, beat up, then mix all and almost immediately take the sauce from the fire before the yolks curdle in it. Any of the foregoing sauce that may be left over can have the whipped white of an egg added and be used to fill paste-lined patly pans for tarts or cheesecakes. 369— Pumpkin Custard Pie. 1 cupful of dry, mashed pumpkin. 1 cupful of common custard. A common custard is one egg to a cup of milk and two tablespoonfula of sugar. Prepare this mixture iu a bowl, and stir the pumpkin into if. If the pumpkin be not dry — either baked or steamed — another egg may be needed to make the pie set. Add a grating of nutmeg or a little gin- ger. Bake iu two deep pie pans lined with paste. 370-Good Common Mincemeat. 3 pounds of minced beef or tongue. 3 pounds of suet 4 pounds of currants. 3 pounds of apples. 1 pound of raisins. 1 pound of brown sugar. 1 ounce of mixed ground spices. 1 pound of candied citron, or the same of orange and lemon rinds boiled tender. 1 pint of common brandy. 3 quarts of cider, or enough to make it juicy. Put the raisins iu whole. Mince all tlie rest, seasoning the meat and suet a little with salt and pepper. Should 136 kept three or four weeks be- fore using. Makes about 2}4 gallons, or 40 or 50 pies. Nothing is saved by buying trashy currants. They have to be well washed and picked over free from stones, and the more dirt there is the more will wash away. Some currants are like small raisins, nice and clean and large. There is no waste in them. 371— To Clean Currants. Put them into a colander with holes not too large; set that down in a pan half full of warm water and stir the currants about vigorously. The dirt will go through the holes. Pour the water away two or three times. This is the quickest plan, and most thorough. Spread the currants out in a baking pan; pick them over and let them dry for use. CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 373-To Clean Kaisins. When sultana seedless are furnished, or even the larger kind of seedless raisins, put them in a colander with a handful of flour mixed in, and rub off the fine stems, which then, by sifting about, will fall through the holes. When the greater part have been so got rid of the raisins must be picked over separately, especially to re- move the gravel stones that may chance to be among them. Layer raisins have to be seeded to be good in anything — a most tedious oper- ation, and requiring such help as can be had. MENU NO. XXXVII.— TEA 373— Oy-sters Sauteed or Fried Without Esss. Out of their own liquor into cracker meal, press and coat them well without rubbing, as the ooatiug will not stick a second time Put a little butter, say as big as a walnut, iuto the frying-pan and when it is melted lay in the oysters close together and fry them light brown, and the quicker the better, not to let them cook hard and tough. One side being done invert a plate that will just fit upon them in the frying- pan, turn over— there should be butter enough in the pan to spill— and then slide them from the plate into the pau again to brown the other side. Dish them up without breaking apart and garn- ish with parsely and lemon. 374— CliipDcd Beef in Butter. Shave dried beef very thinly either with a knife or inverted plane. Put into a pan enough butter to cover the bottom when melted and then a cupful of the shaved beef. Dredge with pep- per. Stir about Wheu fairly hot through it is done. May be served heaped up on thin toast or in individual deep dishes. 375— Chow-Ciiow-Home-Mjde. 3 quarts of green tomatoes. 1 large head of cabbage. 1 dozen large cucumbers. 1 dozen ouions. Chop fine, sprinkle plentifully with salt and let stand over night Then drain off and cover with weak vinegar and let stand two days. Drain off again and add 3 quarta of cider vinegar. 3^ pint of grated horseradish. 4 ounces of white mustard seed. 1^ ounce of celery seed. IJ^ ounces of ground cinnamon seed. 2 tablespoonfuls of turmeric. Same of ground mustard. 3^ pound of ougar. a'tabiespoonfuls of black pepper. 3 sreeu peppers chopued fine. Boil up all together a few minutes, and when cold it is ready for the table. Keep in jars, cov- ered down. 376-S(. Charles Corn Bread. A sort of cornmeal cake, but not sweet, once famous on the lower Mississippi. 2 small cupfuls of white cornmeal— 8 ounces. Butter size of an egg — 2 ounces — melted. 1 cupful of boiling water— }^ pint. Same of cold milk. 2 eggs. % teaspoonf ul of salt 1 teaspoouful of baking powder. Pour the boiling water into the meal, wetting and scalding it all. Then add the melted butter, salt and milk and then the eggs. Put a cake mold into the oven to get hot. Add the powder to the batter and beat up thoroughly with an egg whisk; then pour it into the hot mold, which need be greased. Bake carefully, like a cake, about }-^ hour. The batter for this when ready to be baked should be as thin as if for batter cakes, and the top crust should be the first to bake, to prevent cracking open. Eat hot. 377— Comijote of Ai>ples. This is but another term for apples stewed in syrup. A compote of fruit is understood to be different from stewed fruit, in being richer with sugar and the fruit being either whole or in large pieces. Five ripe apples of a kind that have proved.to be good to cook make a delightful sweet dish for tea in this way: 4 large apples. 1 cupful of sugar. 14 cupful of water. Piece of orange peel or lemon peel, or cloves, or stick cinnamon for tlavoring. Put the sugar, orange peel and water on to boil in a deep saucepan. Pare the apples, cut each one in three and out out the cores. Drop three or four pieces at a time into the boiling syrup, and let simmer about fifteen minutes, or until done and almost transparent: take them outwiih a fork, and cook some more in the same syrup, and so on till all are done. Serve in dessert sau- cers. The apples can he colored pink by adding red fruit juice or currant jelly to the syrup. 378— Water Spongre Cake. Valuable recipe. Excellent sponge cake and cheap. }/i cupful of sugar — 4 ounces. 6 tablespoonfuls of water. 1 cupful of flour — 4 ounces. 1 teaspoonful of baking powder. . Separate the eggs — the whites in a bowl or dish, the yolks in the mixing pan. Put the sugar and water in with the yolks, and beat them till they are a thick yellow froth. Mix the powder in the flour, add that and stir up well Whip the whites firm, add them last Suitable to bake in a cake CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 75 mold, or in gem pans, with powdered sugar on top, or in a sheet spread on paper for jelly roll or for linmg Charlotte molds. MENU NO. XXXVIII— RECEPTION. 379— Potase aux Amaudes. 3 quarts of white soup stock. 1 tablespoonful of minced onion, A slice of lean ham. }4 blade of mace and piece of nutmeg. 6 cloves. A sprig of green thyme. 1 pound of almonds. 1 pint of thick sweet cream. Make the stock by boiling an old fowl and about ten pounds of veal and veal bones in about five quarts of water until it is reduced three quarts, and sets in jelly wlien cold — about hve or six hours of gentle boiling at the side of tlie range. Take care while it is heating at first that the veal does not burn on tbe bottom. Never put raw ham in a soup boiler along with raw veal, lest it; turn the stock red; but when this stock is nearly ready to take olf put in all the seasonmgs named in the list, except the almonds and cream, and let boil long enough to flavor. Strain off into a jar or pail, take off the fat, then again pour the stock, without the sedi- ment, into a clean saucepan, and sot it over a slow fire. Boil the almonds a few minutes and peel them, cut about one-fourth of them into shreds to co into the soup at last Pound the larger portion to a paste, a few at a time, and add spoonfuls of water while pounding; add the paste to the soup and season with salt. Boil the most of the cream separately and add it to the soup along with the reserved almonds just before servmg. Cream or milk added to a soup that is rich enough to become jelly when cold will turn to curd, fine like meal, if allowed to boil. The same takes place in a rich stew or fricassee. Al- though this is not always a disadvantage it is undesirable in a soup that should be smooth and creamy, hence the necessity for reserving the boihug cream until the last minute. Serve the foregoing soup hot in cups, and let some one be ready with a bowl of cold cream whipped to a froth and drop a tablespoonsul m each cup as it goes in. There will be about 25 cups, 380— Scalloped Oysters in Silver .Shells. 7 or 8 dozen oysters and their liquor. 1 pound of fine bread crumbs. 1 pound of fresh crushed oyster crackers. 13 ounces of butter. 1 pint of milk. Pepper and salt. From 16 to 20 silver scallop shells, Soften the butter and brush a coating of it over the bottom of the shells and strew a layer of the mixed bread and cracker crumbs. Shake the o^'sters about in their own liquor in a pan over the fire to make them shrink a little without boiling. Take out with a drainer, and place 4, 5 or 6 in each scallop. Cover with the mixed bread and cracker crumbs. Strain the oyster liquor, mix the butter and milk with it, add salt and pepper to taste, and divide it by spoonfuls into the scallops, moisten- ing the crumbs all over Wipe the exposed edges perfectly clean. Bake light brown on the middle shelf of the range. 381 -Fillets of Trout— Italienne. Choose brook trout weighing about eight ounces each, or lake herring or Cisco or otlier small fish in tbeir stead. Dip them a moment in boiling Avater and peel off the skin. Split them lengthwise and take away the bone and lay the fillets in a dish with enough olive oil and lemon juice to moisten them. For twenty such fillets five eggs will be needed, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and some flour. Beat the eggs slightly and mix the parsley in. Drain the pieces of fish from the oil, dip them in flour first, then in egg. then fry m hot olive oil or lard for about five minutes. Drain on a sheet of paper and dredge with fine salt It is all in the trying whether they come out of a fine golden color or not Serve in a hot dish with a little Italian sauce poured under. 383— Italian Sauce. 1 cupful of brown sauce (roast meat gravy strained and skimmed). 1 teaspoonful of mioced onion. 3 of minced mushrooms. Same of parsley. Juice of 1 lemon. Cayenne and salt Pour half the juice from a can of mushrooms into the brown sauce, add the other ingredients and simmer together for fifteen minutes. 383— IVIaslled Potatoes in a Mold. When mashing the potatoes add one or twoeggs, with the usual cup of milk, to enough potato to fill a 3-quart mold. Butter the mold well, fill and bake it half an hour set in another pan con- taining water. Turn out onto a dish. 384- Kissoles of Partridge. 3 roast partridges. 14 cupful of mushrooms. 1 small cupful of butter. Same of flour. 1 cupful of cream. Same of broth or water. A slight grating of nutmeg, A little lemon juice, Pepper and salt 76 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. Cut the meat of the roast partridges into the emallest poaaible dice, mince the mushrooms and add, sprinkle with a teaspoonful of mixed pepper and salt, grate a little nutmeg and squeeze a lemon over it Make cream sauce by stirring the butter and flour together in a saucepan and adding the broth and cream when it begins to bubble, and when the sauce is ready moisten the meat with it, stir up well and set it away to become cold. Then make out in rolls about the size of a finger, roll in flour, then in egg, then in cracker crumbs and fry in hot lard. Pile in the dish and gar- nish with fried parsley. 385— Reed Birds, Kaasted. Pick and singe them, cut off the heads and feet, wipe clean without drawing them. Wrap a very thin piece of fat bacon around each one and run a skewer through about a dozen of them placed side by side. Make the oven hot and roast them with the ends of the skewers resting on the edges of a shallow pan on the top shelf. Turn them over once while cooking and brush over with butter. They should be done in six or eight minutes. Dish up on a bed of fried bread crumbs, withdrawing the skewers when the birds are in place. To prepare the bread crumbs out two slices of bread extremely thin and out them again into very small dice. Fry these a few moments in the clear part of melted butter made hot for the purpose. Take up with a skimmer and .drain. 386— Stewed Celery. Cut tender, white outside stalks of celery into 3-inch lengths and boil them for 10 mioutes in salted water. Then throw away the water and fill up instead with clear strained soup stock, add minced onion and parsley. Boil until the celery is tender, throw in a piece of butter softened and stirred up with flour, and shake the stew until thickened. Dish the pieces m straight order and pour the sauce over them. 387— Turkey in Mayonaise Jelly. Cut the breast of a cooked turkey or chicken into slices and then, either with a round tin cut- ter or a knife, cut these again into shapes all alike. Make some good mayonaise sauce with lemon juice (No. 68), and mix with it nearly an equal amount of aspic jelly (No. 317), barely warmed enough to melt it. Cover the slices of turkey in the dish with the raayonaise-jelly and set the dish in the refrigerator. Mince a slice of cooked blood beet extremely fine and some parsley the same. Take up the slices of turkey on a fork, when the jelly ia set quite firm, and dip the upper side lightly into the minced parsley, and then into the beet, making them appear sprinkled over, and place in neat order in a clean dish. Garnish the edge with green, such as shred lettuce. 388— Snow Cake and Fairy Butter. For the cake take : 7 ounces granulated sugar — a small cup. 6 ounces uncolored butter — the same. 9 whites of eggs — 8 ounces. 4 ounces of flour — a cupful. 5 ounces of corn starch — the same. Little lemon juice or cream tartar. }{ cupful of milk. Flavoring extract. Warm the butter enough to soften it, rub it and the sugar together to a cream, add the white of eggs a little at a time without previous beat- ing, then the starch and flour. When these are well mixed add the milk and juice of half a lemon or a small teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and a teaspoonful of lemon extract Grease and flour a mold, and hake the cake about half an hour. It is best when not too deep in the mold 389- Fairy Butter. The yolks of 4 hard boiled eggs. 1 teacupf ul of the beat butter. 3 heaping tablespoonfuls powdered sugar. 1 teaspoonful orange flower water. Either grate the yolks or pound and rub them smooth in a bowl, mix the softened butter with them and the sugar and flavoring. Set the mixt- ure where it will get cold, and afterward rub it through a sieve. It looks something like ver- micelli. Pile the fairy butter lightly in the middle of a cake dish, cut the snow cake in slices and lay around. They are to be eaten together like bread and butter. 390— Pineapple Sweet Salad. 1 pineapple. 1 teaoupful of powdered sugar. i.< cupful of maraschino. Peel a pineapple, cut it into uniform slices and cover them with the sugar in a Rlass dish. Let it remain to form a syrup, and when to be served add the marasehin \ 391— Meiinsues vpith Wine Jelly. i whites of eggs. i small cupful fine granulated sugar. Tanilla or lemon ilavoring. Put the whites into a deep bowl, pan or pail, have them cold and beat with a bunch of wire until the froth is firm enougli to bear up an egg. Put in the sugar and a few drops of flavoring extract, and beat about half a minute longer. These meringues are to be lioUow, mere shells of pasting, and to make them so they are ba led on pieces of board that will not let the bottom i cook. Cut some strips of paper two inches wide, place them on boards that will go in the oven, drop CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. i; large spoonfuls of the meringue paste on the paper and form them in egg shapes or round, smoothing them with a knife dipped in water. Sift a little sugar over them, and dry bake in a slack oven about twenty minutes. Too much heat will cause them to melt and go down. When they are cold take them off the paper, and with a knife scoop out the soft inside. When to be served out different colors of clear wine jelly into small dice, mix them together, and pile up in the meringues, which serve as cups. Whipped cream may be used the same way instead of jelly. These meringues can also have a little whipped cream inserted and be joiued by twos tOijether by the bottoms. 393— Star Kisses. A simpler form of meringue made of the same pasite or frosting as tlie foregoing, common in shops and hotels : Procure a tin star tube from the furnishing store. It is about the length of a finger and the point cut serrated. This is in- serted in the point of a funnel shaped bag, which is then filled with the paste, and star-shaped drops are pressed out on to baking pans slightly greased. They are baked to a light lawn color and slip off the pans easily when col '. No fill- ing required. A sheet of paper can be pinned in shape and the point cut so aa to do duty tem- porarily in place of the tube. 393— Wine and Fruit Jellies. To make the brilliantly clear, many-hued, and delicately flavored jellies that are found on the tables of the best hotels and at the confectioners', the simple lemon jelly has first to be made in perfection. It is technically called stock jelly, because, when finished, it can be mixed witti wine or other liquors and cordials, or be flavored and colored to make as many varieties as may be desired. It may be as well to explain that these jellies are transient and will not keep over two or three days, not like the boiled fruit jellies, but of tlie same nature as the old-fashioned calf's foot jelly, made now with gelatine. Once making stock jelly should serve either for a large party or two or three meals. For 3 quarts of jelly take : 3X quarts of water. 13^ pounds of sugar. 4 ounces of gelatine. 5 lemons — juice of all, thin shaved rinds of 2 or 3, according to size. 1 ounce of whole spices — cloves, mace, and stick cinnamon. 5 whites of eggs to clarify it. Put the water in a bright brass kettle, add all the other insredients — the lemon juice squeezed in without tlie seeas, the yellow rind pared very thin, and the white of eggs beaten a little with some water mixed in first. The clean egg shells mav be put in also to assist in the clarification Use the sheet gelatine that floats, for preference. Then set the kettle on the side of a range and let it slowly come to a boil with occasional stir- ring. Let it boil about half an hour, and above all, to avoid the trouble and waste of having to boil it again, be sure that the white foam of egg on top becomes thoroughly cooked so that it will go down and mix with the jelly again like so much meal. Sometimes, to accomplish this, as a lid cannot be kept on without its boiling over, it is necessary to set the kettle in the oven a few min- utes to get heat enough ou top. Then run it through a jelly bag suspended from a hook. The boiling having been properly at- tended to, there should not be the slightest diffi- culty m getting it to run through not only clear but bright and transparent as glass. The first pouring coats the inside of the filtering bag with the coagulated white of egg. and each succeeding running through brightens the jelly. It may be set down as a rule that this kind of jelly cannot be successfully made without more or less lemon juice, or some acid equivalent — -it will not run through a filtering bag without. A cheaper quality can be made with less sugar and lemons. The stock having been made, it can now be di- vided into as many kinds as may he wished. But the stock jelly is already good and mildly fla- vored and care should be takea n ot to over season it, or injure its bright appearance. Jelly is quite as much for ornament as use. It can easily be made to attract notice at the finest table for ils luster and rich colors even if never tasted, therefore its appearance is the main consideration. Lemon ex- tract cannot be put into jelly because it makes a milky appearance and dims its brill- iancy. Orange extract the same. Most of the other extracts can be used to flavor. Use wine in small proportion to mix with some of the stock, and color deep red, but run through the jelly bag again while it is yet warm. Flavor some with vanilla, and color it either amber or brown with burnt sugar. Flavor some with strawberry and color it pink, and leave some plain, pale yellow. 394-One Quart ot Jelly. The rule is, for good quality: 1 quart of water. IX ounces of gelatine. 8 ounces of sugar. 1 or 2 lemons. 1 teaspoonful of whole mixed spices. 2 whites of eggs and the clean shells. But a cupful of water must be added to allow for evaporation and loss, unless it is intended to add J^ pint of wine to the stock jelly produced. 78 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. For jellies to serve ordinarily at dinner peur them iu bright pans an inch or more in depth, and when set cut out little diamond-shaped blocks and serve two such pieces of different color in the same saucer. 395--Apricot Ice. 3 cupfuls of apricots cut in pieces. 1 cupful of sugar — 8 ounces. 2 cupfuls of water. The kernels of halt the apricots. 8 whites of eggs. The ripest and sweetest apricots, if the fresh fruit bo used, should be kept out, one cupful to be mixed in the ice when finished. Stew the other 3 cupfuls and the peeled ker- nels in the water and sugar for a few minutes, rub the fruit then with the back of a spoon, through a strainer into the freezer along with the syrup. Freeze like ice cream and when it is nearly finished whip the two whites to a firm froth, mix them in and turn the freezer rapidly a short time longer. Stir in the out apricots just before serving. Canned apricots can be used as well, and if in syrup that can be mixed in also. 396-EcUhart's Wedding: Cake. The recipe was presented by the caterer to a Chicago belle whose marriage feast he prepared, It has traveled an immense distance since, and come to light again in the heart of a great wilder- ness. 3 pounds of sugar. 1}^ pounds of butter. 13 eggs. 2 pounds of flour. 8 tablespoonfuls of winSo Same of brandy. 6 nutmegs ground or grated. .5 pounds of raisins. 4 pounds of currants. 3 pounds of citron. Stone the raisins, wash and dry the currants, cut the citron small, then mix all three together and dust them with a cupful of flour. Mix the flrst four ingredients together the same as if for pound cake, add the liquors, nutmeg, and then the fruit. Line the mold with buttered paper, and wrap another paper around the outside and tie it with twine. Bake the cake about three hours. 397— Iced Tea. To have it perfect and without the least trace of bitter, put tea in cold water hours before it is to be used ; the delicate flavor of the tea and abundant strength will be extracted, and there will not be a trace of the tannic acid, which ren- ders tea so often disagreeable and undrinkable. You need not use more than the usual quantity of tea. Put broken ice in it a few minutes be- fore serving. Iced tea can be served with a light froth, like that of ale, on top, if shaken with the ice in it in two glasses placed one over the other — the brims MENU NO. XXXIX.— SUPPER. 398— Oyster Slew— Milk Stew, Cook the oysters and the milk in separate saucepans. Dip the oysters from the saucepan into the bowl they are to be served in, add a ladleful of milk and a small piece of fresh but- ter. Serve crackers, butter and shred cabbage separately with the stew. Oysters do not always curdle the milk when boiled in it, but there is always a danger that they may, so the rule is not to run any risk. Be- sides, to cook the oysters in the milk, although good for flavor, always makes a dingy lookmg stew, with a scum on top. To obtain the beat quality and appearanee, boil some oyster liquor separately and keen It ready for orders. As it reaches boiling point the scum on top can be skimmed off, and after that pour it through a fine strainer into a clean saucepan, and you have the oyster essence clear and ready for use with- out detriment to the appearances. It is with cooking an oyster as with cooking an egg. It may be either soft boiled or hard boiled, only there Is the difference that an oyster boiled hard is spoiled. To cook oysters ,for stews set some of the liquor that has been boiled as above mentioned, on iu a little saucepan and drop iu the oysters with a fork. Add a pinch of salt and pepper, shake them back and forth while heating and as soon as the liquor fairly boils they are done. Time about three minutes for one stew. 399— Plain Stew. The oysters cooked as above with the liquor only served with them, and no milk. 400— Dry Stew— Restaurant Order. The same as plain stew without the liquor, or with only a spoonful. 401— Boston Fancy Stew — Restaurant Order. The milk stew with a slice of buttered toast floating in it and the oysters on the toast. Use a large, shallow bowl, put the square of toast in it flrst, drain the liquor of the stew into it and place the oysters neatly. 40a— Fried Smelts. Draw the fish through the gills without open- ing them and wipe them clean. Dip in beaten egg and cracker meak Be careful not to rub off CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 79 the breading, as it will not stick a second time, and there is a bad appearance when fried. Fry a few at a time in a pan of hot lard. They should be done and of a handsome light brown color m 4 minutes. 403— Potato Bouleltes in Cream. Scoop out a cupful of potato balls the size of cherries (See JNo. 283), steam or boil them, and when just done and before they break pour over them some hot cream sauce, or thickened milk with salt and butter in it. 404— Teal Ducks, Broiled. There are blue-wing and green-wing teal, nearly alike, though the blue-wing seems to be preferred ; and the butter-ball duck comes next in quality and size. Having picked and singed them, split them down the back and draw them. Cut off neck and feet. Wash them off quickly in cold water and wipe dry, and flatten them slightly to broil- ing shape with a tap of the cleaver. Lay the duck on a plate, dredge with salt and pepper and brush over both sides with butter. Broil on the gridiron over clear coals, the inside first, about 15 minutes. Serve on a hot dish, with a border of small pieces of toast or chip potatoes, and ■with currant jelly or a quartered lemon, or with the following sauce. iOB—Orause Sauce for Game. 1 orange. 1 cupful ot brown sauce. J^ cupful of claret. A little cayenne. Shave off very thinly the yellow rind of about a quarter of the orange and boil it in the brown sauce about 10 minutes. Cut half the orange into small slices and remove the pith and seeds. iStrain the brown sauce from the peel, throw into it the orange slices, squeeze in the juice of the remaining half, add the claret and cayenne, let boil up and skim off the film that will rise. If there is no brown sauce on hand soup stock can be used and thickened with a spoonful of flour worked in a small piece of soft butter. Pour the sauce under the ducks in the dish and dispose the juice of orange around them. 406— Fried Hominy Cakes. 1 large cupful of cooked coarse hominy. 1 tablespoonful of flour. 1 egg- Take cold hominy that has been well cooked and IS ary (see No. 333) and pouud it with a po- tato masher to make it adhesive, mix in the flour and egg. If not already seasoned it will require salt and a little butter. Make it out in flat bis- cuit shapes with floured hands and fry brown in a frying-pan. 407 -Strins Beans, French Way. Drain away the water from a can of string beans, put them into a small sauce-pan and shake them over the fire, without water, until they are quite hot Put in a piece of fresh butter, the size of an egg, salt, pepper and the juice of half a lemon, or a spoonful of vinegar. When the butter has melted and become hot they are ready to serve. 408— Chicken Salad. Pick the meat from a boiled fowl and cut it into very small dice. Cut likewise about the same quanitity of celery not quite so small and put them into separate bowls. Season both with salt and white pepper, and a few tablespoonfuls of olive oil and the same amount of vinegar. Stir to mix thoroughly. When to be served heap the chicken in the middle of a flat dish or dishes, place the celery around it as a border, and spread over th"^ chicken a coating of thick mayonaise. Garnish with quartered hard-boiled eggs. In the best hotels there is a perpetual change in the salads and ways of placing them in the dishes. The celery and chicken may be mixed together, and, again, be mixed with the dressing, made thin as cream for the purpose, but part left thick for the top covering. The chicken should always be out, if possible, and not chopped. 409— Mock Mayonaise. }4 cupful of thick cream sauce or butter sauce, cold. Half as much olive oil Same of vinegar. legg. Salt, made mustard, sugar, cayenne, a small allowance of each. Any white sauce that may have been made witu flour for other articles will answer if thick enough and cold. Drop in the egg and stir it around rapidly ; add a tablespoonful of oil, then one of vinegar, and keep stirring and adding by spoonfuls till all is mixed in, then add the sea- sonings. This dressing will be thick enough to coat over a salad. It is best to set the pan in ice water while stiring, as it thicliens sooner if quite cold. 410— Apple Shortcake. Make a flaky short puff paste of medium rich- ness by the method described for puff paste. No. .5J, using 1 cupful of butter or lard— 6 ounces. 3 rounded cupfuls flour — 9 ounces. J,^ cupful of ice water. When the paste has been rolled and folded six times cover two jellycake pans with it, trim around and bake them plain. When done spread a thick layer of apple cream on one, place tlie other on top, and for a finish wet half a cupful oi 80 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. powdered sugar with two spoonfuls of water; spread this wet sugar over the surface and let it drv. 411 — Apple Cream. 2 cupfuls of grated apples. 1 small cupful of sugar. Butter size of a walnut 2 tableapoonf uls of water, legs- Orange or lemon peel for flavor. Either grate apples on a tin grater or finely mince them; put the specified quantity into a saucepan with all the other ingredients and stir them over the fire about ten minutes. 413— Grapes Glazed with Susar. Divide some bunches of grapes into small clusters. Put into a deep saucepan, 1 pound of sugar. A large half cupful of water. 3^ teaepoonful of cream lartar. Stir to dissolve the sugar, then set it on to boil, as if for candy. When the syrup has boiled 10 minutes try a drop in cold water. When it sets so that it is hard to press between finger and thumb and the edges of drops are hard and brittle it is ready. Take it from the fire, dip the clusters of grapes in (without ever stirring tne candy) and lay them on dishes slightly greased to dry. Should the candy become set in the kettle it may have a spoonful or two of water added and be made hot again. MENU XL— BANQUET. 413— Oysters on tile Balr Shell. The small, but fat and shapely oysters are chosen for serving in the shell, preliminary to a dmner, known at present by the names of Blue Points, Shrewsburys, Morris Elvers and others. Brush them clean in cold water before opening. Place four, five or six in each small plate, in whichever shell happens to be the best shaped for holding them, and a quarter of a lemon in the center. For sale by the dozen, the large oysters are naturally preferred. As to the grades of oysters it may be useful to parties in business to state that "Counts" or New York counts are the largest oysters sold by count and not by the gallon. "Culls" are the largest "se- lects. " "Selects" are the ordinarily large oysters sold by gallon or can. "Straights" are sunposed to De of all sizes unsorted. "Standards" are small oysters, and there is a grade below known as "common." Tliese quotations — as the dealers in perishable articles say — are subject to altera- tion at any time. A can that will hold only three dozen of the largest oysters will hold eight dozen of the small grade, which makes it possible for retailers of a certain class to sell by the dozen at apparently a very low price. 414-Cold Slaw. Shred tender white cabbage extremely fine, put it into a bowl, sprinkle with salt, mince half a pod of red pepper very small and add that and vinegar enough to moisten. Set on the table in pickle dishes or in individual deep scollops. 415— Olives. Are in request only in one way, that is raw, in pickle dishes on the table, where they should have broken ice strewn upon them. They are used to some extent in the sauces of entrees and for ornamenting salads, but seldom eaten other- wise than as a cold relish. A small sort can be bought by the keg cheaper for secondary pur- poses^ but Spanish olives in bottles for the table. 416-Winter Salad. 1 cupful of red pickled cabbage. 1 cupful of cooked salsify, cut small. 1 cupful of leaves of water cress. 1 pickled (salt or soused) herring. Wash the herring, and without cooking it, pick the meat from the bones and cut it small, the cabbage and salsify likewise, mix all together, season with oil and vinegar, pepper sauce, and perhaps a little salt. The red cabbage is for making this a dish of mixed colors; when not at hand some substitute, such as radishes or beets, can be used. Set it in pickle dishes on the table. 417— Potage a la ReiDe. 2 quarts of chicken broth. 3 solid cupfuls of chicken meat. 1 cupful of boiled rice. 1 pint of cream or milk. This is a puree soup like the potato, cream and puree of beans, but thickened, instead, with the paste or puree of pounded chicken and rice. Procure a pound, or 3 cupfuls of clear chicken meat tender enough to mash to a paste, either from 3 or 3 young chickens i-oasted, or 1 large fowl boiled. Mince it fine, pound it smooth, add the rice to it while poundins, pour in some of the broth to moisten it, then rub it through a per- forated tin gravy strainer or a seive. . The chicken (or veal) broth should have a small bunch of parsley, 1 stalk of celery, a small piece of onion and piece of broken nutmeg boiled in it, and if obtainable a sprig of green thyme, and after that be strained. Mix it boiling hot with the puree of chicken and rice; set on bricks or at the back of the stove to keep hot without boiling, and boil the cream separately and pour It in at last. Season with salt and white pepper. CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 81 41S— Consomme JulieuBe. 2 quarts of soup stock. 1 white turuip. A piece of yellow ruta baga turnip. 1 carrot 1 onion. 1 head of celery. Make the soup stock clear by letting it settle in a jar or pail after the first straining from the boiler, removing the fat, and then, without dis- turbing the sediment, pouring it through a nap- kin set in a colander or through a jelly bag. The size and quantity of the vegetables is not a mat- ter of much consequence, but too little is better than too much, as they consume time in the shredding. Cut them first into very thin slices, then into shreds an inch or two long and as thin as straws. Put them into a saucepan with but- ter size of an egg and half as much sugar, sim- mer in the butter with the steam shut in until they begin to brown on the bottom, then pour in the stock and boil about half an hour. Skim while boiling. Season with salt and cayenne. If not of a light brown color add a spoonful of burnt sugar caramel. It is a clear soup, but it does no harm to give body to it with a spoonful of starch wetted with broth. 419— Baked Stitr^feoii. As only two or three ounces of fish is generally served to each person on a small plate, it is easy to calculate the amount to be provided, allowing something like one-third for shrinkage in cook- ing. When it is a large fish it is better for this way of cooking to have two broad and not very thick cuts across the fish than to have one solid sec- tion, that each person may receive a like portion of the browned surface — in short, for con- venience of serving. Let the fish lie in cold salted water a while be- fore cooking. Put it on in boiling water or broth that has an onion and a quarter cupful of vinegar in it, boil gently at the side of the range lor about forty-five minutes. Take it up with- out breaking, brush over with beaten egg, sift on all the cracker meal or crushed bread crumbs that will stick, put it in a pan with enough of the liquor it was boiled in to keep the pan from burning, and when the surface has become hot enough to set the breading so that it will not wash off, basle with butter and let it brown. Serve with anchovy sauce and a small portion of potato in some form in the same plate. 430— -inchovy Sauce. 1 heaping tablespoonful of flour. Same weight of batter. 1 cupful of liquor the fish was boiled In. 2 tablespoonf uls essence of anchovies. 1 of lemon juice. A pinch of cayenne. Warm the butter and flour, stir them together in a frying-pan and bakeUgUt brown in the oven. Pour in the liquor, boil up, strain, add the other ingredients. When there is brown sauce on hand use that instead, with the essence, etc., added. 431— Potato CruUs. Pare good, smooth potatoes raw. Cut them into thick slices, as many as there will be plates of fish. Cut out the centers with an apple corer, making rings. Take a small penknife and be- gin inside and cut the slice all around into a coil or string as thin as may be without breaking through till the knife comes out at the outer edge. Fry the cruUs in hot lard, light colored. Drain, and sprinkle with fine salt. 433- Boiled Corned Tonsfue, Caper Sauce. Fresh tongues put in a jar and covered with the brine or pickle No. 100, will be of a good pink color and nicely waited m from a week to ten days. Wash off the corned tongue and boil it three hours. Plunge it in cold water and peel off the skm then set it in a hot place. In carving cut slantingly to make long slices that will not run out too small at the thin end. Serve with caper sauce, which is butter sauce with a little of the caper vinegar mixed in and the capers — about a teaspoonful — dashed on top of the sauce on the meat. 483— Mashed Parsnips. Pare and cut them small, steam an hour or more, mash and season the same as potatoes ex- cept that a little white pepper should be added, or cayenne or a finely minced piece of red pep- per if that is not to be had. Keep hot in a sauce- pan. Whatever is left over will make parsnip fritters, which are a favorite dish if well made. See No. 125, 434— The Fillet of Beef. The fillet, otherwise known as the tenderloin, of beef is the long band of meat inside of the loin that, beginning in a thin point at the last rib, extends the whole length of the loin, almost to the end. The very tender, lower meaty por- tion of every porter house steak and sirloin steak is a slice of the fillet. When cut out of a loin of beef entire, it weighs from 3 to 5 pounds, accord- ing to the size of the beef and closeness of trim- ming. When, after being divested of fat and •kin, the thin end is out away and the thick end trimmed and rounded, the smooth fillet, ready for roasting, will weigh about 3 pounds, all solid lean— enough for from fifteen to twenty cuts after cooking. While the fillet, on account of both its tender- ness and its symmetrical shape for serving whole has been favored with greater attention by the decorative cooks than any other piece of meat whatsoever, it should be remembered that when it is served at dinner to the average 82 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. American as honest beef, and not so much as a tiling of beauty, it had better not be much fixed up and diSRuised, but only splendidly plain roasted, with the thick end rare, when it is not the only reliance for roast beef; but there ia another cut ready for those who are dissatisfied, The fillet, as an entree (a dish that the majority are unkind enough to regard as not a principal, ^ut an unimportant side dish,', can be larded ^ith fat bacon, flavored with vegetables, herbs ind spices, and steeped in olive oil and lemon juice, as we will show in detail further on. 435— Koast Fillet of Beef, with Mnshroorns. A fillet, to be plainly yet skillfully roasted, to he carved in the kitchen and not sent to table whole, need not have all the fat removed, only cut down thin. It must bo cut off the top side, however, which means the side that had tbe kidney fat upon it, and a ribbon-like strip of the skin covering taken off the meat tbe whole length down, as otherwise it will draw up in the oven. Make the pan hot first and put into it all tbe pieces of meat and a little of the fat that has been trimmed off the fillet, and let them stew and bake in tue pan with a pint of water and a little salt to make a glaze or gravy OQ the bottom for the fillet to be rolled in at last. An hour after, or when the water is nearly all gone out of the pan, make the oven hotter and put the fillet in and roast off quickly. It may be done enough with the thickest part medium rare in a hot oven in half an hour or three-quarters, and is sure to be done through in an hour. Never stick a fork in it, but roll it over in the pan by means of a broad fork and spoon several times, which will make it shine with the lig t brown glaze, and make it cut full of juice when done. Lift out the roast meat, then the fat pieces from the pan, and pour off the grease, which will be clear if the water has been allowed to boil away; put in a pint of soup stock and let bod up in the range. Thicken either with fiour mixed in soft butter or with flour and water ; strain into a saucepan. Boil it on top of the range, and put in some of the liquor from a can of mushrooms, cold That will cause fat and scnm to rise. Skim off, put in mushrooms, and let boil again. Serve the meat with the natural gravy on the slices, and mushrooms in sauce around. 436— Oyster Plant Croquettes. Pare the salsify or oyster plant thinly, and either boil or steam quite tender, which may take an hour and a half in the tall, but a shorter time after frost, when this vegetable is at its best Cook the roots whole, or only cut across, mash plain when done, and take — 1 cupful of dry mashed salsify. Butter, size of a walnut. 1 teaspoonf ul of mixed salt and pepper. Yolk of egg. 1 tablespoonful of vinegar. Mix well by pounding together, make up in little balls, with plenty of flour on the haud8, and fry them yellow in hot lard. 437— Koast Turkey Stufted with Chestnuts. Singe and draw a young turkey. Cut off the neck about midway, and when the crop has been taken out, without cutting the skin of the breast, - shorten the neckbone still more and pull the skin over the end and tie it. When the turkey has been washed and prepared make the follow- ing stuffing: 3 cupfuls of pork sausage meat 1 pressed cupful of bread crumbs. 40 or 50 of the large foreign chestnuts. Mix the bread crumbs in the sausage meat dry, and add a little salt and pepper. Boil the chestnuts 3^3 hour, peel them, scrape off the furry inside skin, mix them with the sausage and break and stuff the turkey with it. Roast according to size from 1}^ to 2V^ hours. If a large turkey that must stay in a long time, keep a sheet of greased paper over it in the oven to prevent bhstering the surface. 438— Chestnut Sauce for Koast Turkey. Boil chestnuts tender, peel, cut them in halves and mix them in the brown sauce made in the turkey pan. 439-Bakecl Winter Squash. Bake it in pieces without paring. Those with the hardest shell are oftenest tbe best eating, but difficult to divide neatly. The common expedient ia to put a whole squash in a steamer, after wash- ing off the outside, and let it stay there half an hour. That softens the shell sufficiently, and it can be cut in strips about the width of two fingers. Place these in a baking pan, brush them with a brush dipped in butter and sprinkled with a little salt and a little sugar. BaJie without burning, with greased paper, if necessary. 430— Larded Sweethreati-s. Having boiled the sweetbreads thirty to sixty minutes, according to size, and allowed them to get quite cold, according to directions at No. 363. Cut them for this dish in two, or possibly three slices if large, the broad way, and lard them — that is, draw them full of little strips of fat ba- con. These strips should be scarcely thicker than a pencil and not so long as the little finger. There are larding needles for the purpose, cost- ing but a dime or two, that have the ends split open for the bacon to he inserted and so drawn through the meat^ The easy way is to take an- other large needle of any kind, catch up the end of one of these strips of bacon on the point and draw it by that means into the open end of the larding needle, and then with the larding needle CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 83 into the meat, the ends showing on each side of the shoe. When the sliced sweetbreads are drawn full of strips of hacon place them close together in a baking-pan, mince a tablespoon- ful of onions and sprinkle over them, and perhaps a little green herbs, if any at hand, pour in equal parts of strong soup stock (made strong by boiling down on the range) and brown meat gravy, but only enough altogether to come up level with the sweet- breads, then bake them until brown on top. Baste them with the sauce from the corner of the pan and let bake until that is dried on them. Then take them up on to a dish or dishes. Warm some olives in gravy and cut a lemon in small pieces, and dish them up with the gravy around the sweetbreads. 431— Stewed liamb, with Tomatoes. 2 pounds of breast of lamb. I cupful mixed vegetables, cut in dice. 1 cupful of tomatoes. 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Salt and pepper. Saw the breast or brisket of lamb lengthwise through the bones ; then divide in pieces, wash, and put it on to stew in water or broth enough just to cover; cut carrots, turnips and onions {enough xo fill a cup) in squares, and boil them in water separately; pour off the water when they are half done and put them in the stew, and also the tomatoes. Boil half an hour longer, thicken slightly if necessary, season, and at last throw in the parsley. The above makes a very pretty dish. In dish- ing up take up two pieces of the meat for each dish and place them square in the middle of an individual flat platter, and dish the vegetables and sauce in order at each end. 43S— Spaghetti and Clieese— Romaine. Spaghetti is macaroni in another form, a solid cord instead of a tube. i ounces of spaghetti — 2 cupfuls when broken. 1 cupful of minced cheese — 3 ounces. 1 cupful of milk. Butter size of an egg. 2 yolks of eggs. This dish ought to be quite yellow. Throw the spaghetti into water that is already boiling, and salted. After cookiug 20 minutes drain it dry, and put it into the buttered dish it is to be baked in. Put the cheese and butter and half the milk into a saucepan and stir them over the fire till the cheese is nearly melted, mix the yolus with the rest of the milk, pour that into the saucepan, then add the whole to the spaghetti in the pan, and bake it a yellow brown in as short a time as possible. It loses its richness if cooked too long, through the toughenin;; of the olieese. 433— Russian Pnnch. a cupfuls of tea, made as for drinking. 1 cupful of water. 1 cupful of port wine. 3^ cupful of brandy. 3 small cupfuls of sugar., 2 lemons — ripe and thin skinned. Cut the lemons without grating or squeezing, in small slices into a bowl, make a boiling syrup of the sugar and water and pour over them and let stand until cold. Then put in the tea and hquors and strain the punch into a freezer and freeze as hard as the spirit in it will allow. Save the lemon slices and mix them in at the finish. 434— Roast Partridgre witli Cress. Cleanse them the same as chickens and wipe di'y. Bind very thin bands of fat bacon on the breasts, and roast them in a pan in the oven for about 20 or .30 minutes. Bemove the bacon, roll them in the pan and brown the surface quickly. Serve them in a dish, or halves in individual dishes, with water cress, crisp and fresh, but quite free from water, at each end. 435— Dressed Crab. Pick the meat from the shell and claws, cut the solid part into small pieces, dry the soft part with the addition of a spoonful of fine bread crumbs, mix all with a little oil, vinegar and mustard. Wash and dry the shells and serve the meat in them, placed on a bed of something green — lettuce, cress, young celery plants or parsley. 436— Custard Fritters Glazed. A sort of sliced custard, breaded and fried, very rich and very generally liked, made of 1 cupful of milk. 2 tablespoonsfuls of sugar. 1 tablespoonful of corn starch. 1 heaping tablespoonful of flour. 3 yolks of eggs. Butter size of a walnut Flavoring. Pinch of salt Boil the milk with the sugar in it, which pre- vents burning. Mix the starch and flour in a cup, with a spoonful of cold milk extra, and some of that on the fire; pour in when the milk boils and let boil thick. Beat in the butter and yolks and take it off. Flavor with lemon or other extract, and let it get cold like mush, in a buttered pan. Cut in thick slices or blocks, roll in beaten egg and then in cracker meal, fry golden yellow in hot lard. Pour over the hot slices when they are served a thick, transnarent glaze, like the following: 437-Rich Sauce lor Fritters. 1 cupful of water. J-^ cupful of sugar. 1 tablespoonful of corn starch, 84 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. y^ cupful of ouraooa or rum. Mix the starch in the sugar dry, boil the water and stir them in. Take it from the fire and add the curacoa. It changes to a pink color. Other flavormgs can be used. Have it thick enough to glaze the articles. 438— liemon Mince Fatties. Koll out pie paste to a thm sheet, and cut out like cookies with a scallop-edge cutter. Line the bottoms of patty pans or gem pans, of the right size, with these, half fill them with lemon mince meat, and cover with another of the cuts of paste. Tiie bottom piece of paste, when put in, should be pressed with the thumbs up the sides of the pan, to spread it up to the rim. Brush the tops over with a little egg and water, dredge sugar on top, and bake the patties in a slack oven. 439— Leniun Mince Meat. Has no meat in it, but 4 lemons. a pounds of white sugar. 2 pounds of currants. 1 pound of seedless raisins. 2 pounds of suet. 1 ounce of mixed ground spices. }^ pint of brandy and port wiuo mixed. Use lemons that are ripe and thin-skinned, not harsh and bitter. Boil them in a quart of water till the water is half boiled away. Then squeeze the juice into the sugar, throw away the seeds, and mince the lemon rinds and pulp small. Gut or chop the raisins, mince the suet fine, and mix all the ingredients together. Keep in a covered jar. The water the lemons were boiled in should be added to the mince. 440— Rhubarb Marmalade for Tarts. Rhubarb flavored with oranges and boiled down with sugar. 4 cupfuls of rhubarb cut very small. 2 cupfula of sugar. 3 oranges — or orange peel only. Grate the yellow rind of the oranges into the saucepan and then cut up the insides, carefully excluding the seeds and white pith. Put in a spoonful or two of water to wet the bottom, then the sugar and rhubarb, and simmer at the back of the rauge with a lid on for an hour. Keep in a jar. Use to fill tarts or spread between layers ef cake. 441— Frozen Fie: Puddintr. Figs cut small and mixed in caramel ice cream and frozen in brick molds is a most excellent combination — a modified tutti frutti. 1 quart of milk. 8 yolks of eggs. 14 ounces of sugar. 1 pound of figa The caramel gives the flavor, but half a cup- ful of curacoa improves it. Take four tablespoonfula of the sugar to make caramel, put it into a saucepan or fry mg-pan over the fire without any water, and let it melt ani3 become a medium molasses color, not burnt, however, then pour in half a cupful of water, and let boil and dissolve. Make rich boiled custard of the milk, sugar and yolks, pour the caramel into it, strain into the freezer, and freeze as usual. Cut the figs small as raisins and mix them in. Put the ice cream into Neapolitan molds, and bed them in- ice and salt for two hours. See Nos. 266 and 267 for details. 443— Finger Biscuits— X iu Kecipe, 8 ounces of fine granulated sugar. 4 egga. 4 tablesDoonfuls of water. 6 ounces of flour — a heaping cup. Separate the eggs, the whites into a bowl, the yolUa into the mixing pan. Put the water and sugar in with the yolks and beat them with a bunch of wire ten minutes, till they are a thick Ught batter. Have the flour ready. Whip the whites to a very firm froth, then mix the flour with the yolk mixture and stir the whites in last Fill a stiff paper cornet with the point cut off (or a lady finger sack and tube) with the batter, and press out finger lengths on to a sheet of manilla paper. Sift powdered sugar over, shake off the surplus and lay the sheet on a baking pan. Bake about six minutes. Dampen the paper under side, take the cakes off and place by twos to- gether. 443— Ansel Food, or White Sponge Cake. 5 whites of eggs — or 6 if small. .5 ounces fine granulated sugar — }^ cup. 2J^ ounces flour— 1.< cup. 1 rounded teaspoonful cream tartar. 1 teaspoonful vanilla or lemon extract Mix the cream tartar in the flour by sifting them together. Whip the whites firm, put in the sugar and beat a few seconds, add the fla- voring, then stir in the flour lightly without beat- ing. Aa soon as mixed put the cake in the ovea It needs careful baking like a meringue, in a slack oven and should stay in from twenty to thirty miuutes. A small, deep, smooth mold is the best and should not Ije greased. When the cake is done turn it upside down and leave it to get cold in the mold before trying to take it out When you have pure cream tartar from a drug store use only half as much as of the common leat the cake taste of it 444-Kich Fruit or Wedding Cabe. 1 pound of sugar. 1 "% pounds of butter. 10 eggs. V^/i pounds of flour. Mix the above like polind cake, then add: CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 85 IJ^ pounds of seedlesa raieius. 13^ pounds of currants. 1 pound of citron. 8 ounces of almonds, blanched. 1 tablespoonful of mixed ground apices. Half pint of brandy. 1 lemon, juice and grated rind. Bake in molds lined with buttered paper. Takes from 1 to 3 hours according to depth. This cake cannot be cut while fresh without crumbling, but becomes moiater and firm with a few days' lieeping. 445— Frosted Grapes. Take grapes of two colors, as red Tokays and white Muscadels and pull the bunches apart into clusters of three or four grapes each. Prepare a platter with the sort of pulverized sugar known aa fine granulated, and make it warm. Whip some white of eggs in a shallow bowl, dip the grapes in it, lay them on the sugar and sift more sugar on top. Lay them on sieves to dry. 446— Brie Cheese, or Fromaffe de Brie. Is a cream cheese, often soft when cut, and of high ilavor ; is round and shallow, comes in a flat box, usually weighs four jDounda, and retails at SO cents per pound. The cream cheese made by the recipe No. 109 resembles Brie when made large enough and kept until ripe. 447— Neufcliatel Clieese. la the small cheese, weighing about four ounces, done up in tinfoil ; sells at about $1 per dozen. The sour milk cheese made by the recipe 110, if made with a proportion of cream mixed in, and kept some time, resembles NeufchateL This cheese varies in character, according to the time it is kept, from the mildness of sour curd when fresh to a dry mold and strong flavor when aged. Some who will condemn it in one state will be suited with another sample of it. The foreign cheeses bearing these designations are said to be made with proportions of goat's milk, or have other peculiarities. 448— Roquelort Cheese. A dry and high-flavored cheese, of the common round and thick shape ; sells at about the same price aa Brie, and is of about the same weight. These three are the oftenest served at dinners where something less common than Western cheese is desired. The hardest water crackers are served at the same time. MENU NO. XLI.— BREAKFAST. 449— .Inte-Breakfasl: Oranees. When an orange is at the most luscious stage of ripeness it must seem an act of super- fluous care to serve It in any but its natural state, particularly at the morning meal, though there are well known ways of serving it sliced in a bowl with sugar over, as a sweet salad, and with the addition of a liqueur, and later it has been suggested that even with salad oil, lemon juice and cayenne the orange is delicious. But while the preference is so generally for keepiug the natural fruit just beyond the verge of the cook's jurisdiction, we will let a sprightly writer — or two of them — in the midst of the groves of Florida discourse upon a matter of which we can otlierwiae know nothing, that is the difficulty and danger there is in eating an orange with its jacket on. • We had not beard of any written rule prescrib- iug just when to eat an orange, and, in the ab- sence of any time card, we have been going it wild, on the restaurant plan, at all hours. Now Sidney Lanier tells us how. Hear him: At this hour in the morning, in Florida, every- body is eating his ante-breakfast oranges with as much vigor as if he saw himself growing sud- denly wrinkled and flaccid, like the gods and goddesses in Wagner's Rheingold, when they had, in their agitation, forgotten to eat their daily allowance of the golden fruit which grew in Freya's garden, and which was the necessary condition of their immortal youth. In truth, to eat one's orange with some such thought as this would not be wholly absurd. But the sight of dripping flngers reminds one that while there are few pleasanter things than the eating 01 an orange, yet it is also in the order of nature that difficulty and delight, which are essentially birds of a feather— should fly together, and there are, therefore, few harder things than the eating of an orange dry fingered. The stick- ineaa of orange juice seems, somehow, at once one of the most unavoidable and most disagreeable of all the earthly bads that hang by the goods ; and we can never help regretting that neither the author of "Problems of Life and Mmd" nor the author of "Kocks Ahead" has thought to treat the question, "How to eat an orange." Yet it can be done with great daintiness if the proper appliances are at hand. By appliances I mean a lady. It is notorious that women can manage an orange with their delicately tactile fingers to a marvel. There is a tradition in Jackson- ville of one who, with kid gloves on her hands, kept the same wholly unspotted during the entire process of peeling, dividing and eating. However that may be, it is certainly an seathetio delight to see ten white fingers deftly coaxing apart the juicy orange aeotors. Indeed, that is apples of gold in pictures of silver. It has been suggested that the reason of this supe- rior skill is longer experience ; woman, though younger than man, commenced to handle fruit sooner. But it is a suggestion that I make a point of loudly and ostentatiously scorning ; for, as has been said, the solution of the problem of 86 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. "How to eat an orange," depends on being on good terms with woman. "First get your orange; and you will at least produce an implication of your connoisseuraliip m the mind of the dealer, if, in doing so, you ask for Indian Iliver oranges, which many per- sons hold to be the tropic fruit. Then get your sister, or any available womankind — another man's sister might do — to peel your orange; divide it into sectors, and hand you these, each lying on its detached arc of peel as on a small salver. The rest, as the old play says, can be done without book." * * * "It may be all very well for Growly to have Mrs. G. peel his orange, leaving him only the arduous duty of eating it; but no 'knightly lover' would stand by, after gathering hia sweetheart's roses, and permit her to peel the breakfast oranges, however deftly. Oh, no! if his 'Dearie' was a little lale, which she might sometimes be, you know, she would find the oranges peeled in a way which will admit of her handliog them with or without gloves. The 'knightly lover' finds a fresh orange, with a thin brown rind, carefully cuts the rind without abrading the inner skin, cutting deftly around the periphery, then taking a teaspoon passes it under the rind, then gently turn it wrong side out, as it were, now outs the orange diagonally across, passing to his audience, who most surely will give him en encore. " 450— Fried Chicken. Take young chickens and cut them into joints. If wanted to be extremely neat, take only four joints of each one, cutting oS the legs at the hip joints, getting all the meat that belongs with a broad, flat cut that leaves the carcass bare, then chop the breast part from the back, and divide the breast in two, each piece having the lirat wing joint attached. Wash the pieces, wipe dry, dredge with salt and pepper, then braad them by dipping first in egg and then m cracker meal, being careful not to rub off the breading or leave a hole in the coat Fry in a skillet of hot lard, a few pieces at a time, with care not to let the under side burn unawares. The frying takes about 10 minutes. It makes all the difference between good cooking and bad whether the chicken comes out of a fine golden brown or black and smoky. Pour some good cream sauce in the dish and lay the pieces of chicken in it without covering them. 451— Water Cress Salad. Cut away the rough stems, pick off the root fibers, and wash the cress carefully. Drain, out it in inch lengths, season in a bowl with a little salt and pepper, and when they are mixed in sprinkle with vinegar. Serve in small salad dishes individually. 453— Hominy Cake. Use the fine hominy, or grits, as it is called. Take a large half-cupful and wash the dust out of it — like washing rice — to prevent burning. Put it on to boil gently in two oupfula of water, with a little salt. Let it cook an hour, and if dry in the meantime add half cupful of milk. When done measure — Two cupf uls of cooked hominy. Butter size of an ettg. 1 teaspoonfnl of sugar. 1 or 3 eggs. X cupful of milk. Stir the butter in while the hominy is warm, beat the eggs and milk together, mix all; bake in a shallow pan. Serve as a vegetable side dish like fried mush. 453— To I>ress Terrapin. When there is a question of the quantity re- quired for a given number of persons, it may be counted about the same as of young chickens. Aa they ordinarily run, a terrapin weighs from two to four pounds live. There are larger and better, but rarely obtainable away from the source of supply. The amount of meat in a terrapin is not over half the live weight It is most serviceable stewed or in soup. Drop the terrapin alive into a pot of boiling water. At the end of fifteen minutes take it out and take off the bottom shell by chipping through the thinnest part, where it joins the back shell be- tween the openings. This can be done with the heavy handle end of a stout knife. Cut close to the shell, not to bring any meat away with it Pour away the water that will be found inside, but save the blood that collects in the deep shell afterwards. The gall, about the size of a cherry, will be seen near the center, and must be taken out without breaking; also take out the single fish-bait entrail. Loosen the meat from the back shell, and cut through the spine bone that at- taches to the shell at a joint above the tail. Empty it into a pan. When all are done go over them, take off the heads and put them with the sheila for soup ; separate the hind and fore feet (or fins as some call them), making four pieces ; trim off the claws and scrape off the thin outside cuticle. It is worth while to take off the rich fat that will be found at the shoulder-joints of the females, because it boils away while the meat is cooking tender, and should be added later. It is of a very dark green color, almost black. Pre- serve along with it all the eggs, both large and small. Keep all the pieces of meat, fat and eggs in cold water. Put on the heads, shells and re- maining scraps in water enough to more than cover, boil slowly for two or three hours, skim- ming when it first boils, then strain the liquor or stock into a clean saucepan, put the pieces of terranin in and boil them one hour. The pieces that were like india-rubber at first will begin to e tender by that time, but before being finished CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 87 as stew or soup, or otherwise, ahonld be taken up on a dish to cool, and the liquor strained into a bowl. The terrapin prepared as above directed is at the same stage as canned terrapin, and, lilte that, it can be seasoned and finished for the table in different ways. 454— Terrapin in Siiell, Maryland Style. Take a baking pan large enough to hold as many terrapins as wanted, half fill it with dry gravel or sand, and make it hot in the oven, Kill or stun the terrapins, wash oS and bed them back downward in the pan of gravel. Bake about an hour. Take hold with a towel, pry off the belly shell, remove the gall oag and entrail from the inside, and loosen the meat from the shell without taking it out Work a lump of soft butter with a little flour, pepper, salt and lemon juice, drop a spoonful in each terrapin and replace them in the oven for the seasonings to cook. Serve in shell on a folded napkin. 455— Stewed Terrapin, The meat of two terrapins — about 3 pints. The liquor or stock — about 3 pints. Butter size of an egg. 1 large tablespoonful of flour. Herb and spice seasonings. 3^ cup of sherry or madeira. The terrapin and the liquor it was boiled in being ready add a little water to the latter and set it on to boil with a teaspoonf ul of bruised pepper corns, a sprig of green thyme, three or four of parsley, two cloves, half blade of mace, and tea- spoonful of onion. Stir the butter and flour to- gether in a small saucepan over the fire until it is yellow or light brown, add it to the boiling stock, and also a teaspoonful of salt. When boiled sufliciently with the thickening in it, stram it into a clean saucepan — that is the sauce. Take the pieces of cooted terrapin and chop olf all the projecting points of bones and otherwise trim the joints smooth and shapely, then put them into the sauce to simmer at the side of the range; add the wine and the fat pieces, if any saved, also the eggs, and strew them over the surface of the stew when served. 456- Corn Meal Muffins. These can be made with yeast, but the process is longer. Buttermilk and soda will do instead of the sweet milk and powder named below, and either way the muffins take no longer to make than corn bread. 1 heaping cupful of white corn meal Butter or lard, size of an egg. 1 cupful of boiling water. IJ^ cupfuls of cold milk. 1 level cupful of flour. 2 yolks or 1 egg. 1 teaspoonful ot baking powder. Same of salt. Boil the butter or lard and cup of water to- gether and pour them into the meal to scald it all. Add salt. Mix in the cold milk and fiour and powder. Beat up well with a bunch of wire or wire egg-whisk. Bake in greased muffin rings or in deep gem pans. If the former, make the baking pan and rings both hot before pour- ing in the batter, then it wili not run under ; for the mixture has to be quite thin to make the muffins the very best. 457— Marmalade of Canned .^ijricots. 2 cupfuls of sugar to 3 cupfuls of apricot pulp. Drain the fruit from the syrup by pouring all into a colander set in a sauce-pan. Press the fruit through the colander into another vessel and measure it. Put as much sugar by measure into the apricot juice in the sauce-pan and boil them gently for half an hour, skimming once; then put in the mashed apricot and simmer down thick. 458— Omelet Saufflee. A soufHee is a puff, and an omelet so called is one whipped very light in the raw state, cooked carefully to preserve its lightness and should be eaten as soon as done. 3 eggs. 1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar. 1 teaspoonful of milk. Clear butter to fry in. Yolks of eggs beat up lighter and better with a few drops of liquid added. Beat the yolks in a small bowl aud the sugar and few drops of milk with them until thick and light Whip the whites very stiff and stir them into the yolks Put a spoonful of the clear part of melted butter into a small frying-pan, put in the omelet and spread it out level, and if convenient cook it in the oven, set on the bottom. This kind of omelet is very apt to burn, through the butter and sugar, and needs but little heat. It will bear turning over with a broad knife if it has to be cooked over the fire. Dredge powdered sugar over the top before taking from the fire. Slide on to a hot dish. MENU NO. XLII.— LUNCHEON. 459 - Cream of Terrapin Soup. Selected meat of 3 terrapins. 3 quarts of terrapin stock. 1 quart of cream, Canned terrapin can be used to cut up into a rich cream soup, but at least an equal portion should be taken to make the stock. When the terrapins have been prepared from the first, as directed at No. 453, there will be 2 or 3 pints of strong stock already, and another quart should be made by boiling the bones, after CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. the meat has been cat off, until all the glutinous parts are dissolved, which may take two hours' slow cooking, starting with 2 quarts of water. Add seasonings, as before, of black pepper- corns (bruised), parsley or sliced parsley root, a scrap of mace and teaspoonful of onion. Cut the meat of the terrapin, cold, into neat squares, size of green peas. Strain all the terra- pin stock through a fine strainer into a clean saucepan, throw in the meat and let boil up. Boil the cream separately, and while it is heat- ing rub a tableapoonful of flour and butter, size of an egg, together in a saucepan and pour the cream to it, then through a strainer add it to the soup just before serving. Add salt. The cream will be very liable to curdle in the soup if they are allowed to boil together. 460— Truffled Oysters. 4 dozen of the largest oysters. 1 small can of truffles. 6 ounces of breast of chicken, cooked. 3 ounces of fat salt pork, raw. Bed or pickled pepper. 5 eggs, flour, toast. Mince and then pound to a paste the chicken and salt pork, and add a quarter pod of re- pepper very finely minced. Cut the truffles to the size of peas and mix them in. Lay the oys- ters out on a napkin, insert a penknife at the edge and split each oyster up and down inside without making the opening very large, then push in a small teaspoonful of the truffle force- meat As the oysters are stuffed lay them in flour and coat well with it, then dip them in beaten egg in a plate. Drop a few at a time into hot lard or oil and fry for three or four minutes. The lard should be deep enough to immerse them and hot enough to hiss sharply but not smoking. When the oysters are of a golden brown take them up and drain on blank paper in a hot place. Dust with fine salt. Cut diamond shaped slices of thin dry toast and serve four oysters laid diagonally on each slice. 461— Stuffed Oysters— Broiled. Grate the yolks of hard boiled eggs — 3 or 4 for every dozen of the largest oysters — mince half as much fat salt pork or bacon and mix in, also black pepper and chopped parsley. Add a raw yolk to make a paste of it Split the oysters and stuff them according to the preceding directions. Dip them into bread crumbs very finely minced and sifted through a colander, then into butter melted on a plate, then into the bread crumbs again and broil them over a clear fire. 463-Potted Ham. Take the remainder of a ham when the hand- somest slices have been out away ; trim off all the meat, rejecting whatever of the outside is dark colored or strong, and apportion one-third fat to two-thirds lean. Season with white pep- per or cayenne. Mince the meat fine, the lean first, and then pound it to a paste and mix both lean and fat Rub it through a seive with the back of a wooden spoon. Press it into small jars, and pour melted butter on top to exclude the air. This is for present use. If to be kept some time make the potted ham hot by baking in a vessel set in another containing boiling wa- ter before putting into jars, and stir up as it cools. 463— Sandwich Rollb 4 cupfuls of light bread dough. 1 cupful of butter. Take the dough from the bread. If set with yeast over night it will be ready for this purpose at any time in the morning. Spread it out on the table with the knuckles and then roll thin with the rolling-pin. Spread the butter all over the sheet, fold it up and roll out again ; fold in three as before and let it stand a few minutes in a warm place to lose its elasticity. After that the dough can be rolled and folded twice more. Give it another short interval then roll out, out out biscuits, place them in pans not touching, brush over the tops with a little lard and hoc water in a cup. Let rise an hour and bake. These are light rolls that will pull apart in flakes. 464^Claret Cup. 1 bottle of claret. 1 bottle of soda water. }{ cupful of sherry. Peel of lemon. }{ pound of sugar. 3 or 3 slices of cucumber or a sprig of borage or verbena. Ice. Either grate the lemon rind or pare extremely thin and rub it and the sugar and a few spoon- fuls of water together in a bowL Add the liquors and when the sugar is dissolved strain, add ice and the herbs or cucumber slices. 465-Truffled Chicken. 1 fat pullet, and the breasts of 3 more. 1 large can of truffles. 3»^ pound of fat salt pork. Bone the fowl according to directions at No. 306, and cut off the fillets or white meat of the other two and lay them a!l side by side on the table. Cut the fat pork in thin strips, score gashes in thick parts of the chicken and lay the strips in, cut the truffles and dispose the pieces evenly where they will show the black spots in the white meat when the chicken is sliced. Dredge well with salt and white pepper and a CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 89 little nutmeg and powdered thyme. Then lay the chiclcen breasts in the thin places of the fowl, bring the two sides together and sew up the fowl mto nearly its original shape. Do it up in a cloth, tie and pin it, and boil it two hours in salted broth. Press it while cooliLg. Take off the cloth when cold, draw out the thread it is sewed with. Serve the fowl either incased in aspic jelly, or coated with melted butter, or slice it and display the slices in a dish. 466 -Pickled Maxtsoes. These are small, green melons, hollowed out, filled with other pickling vegetables and all pickled together. Take the youug musk-melons, the last on the vmes, out off one end, scoop out the inside, tie on the piece and put them into a keg of strong brine, the same way that cucumbers are i;ept, for a day or two, or until wanted. Pi-epare in like manner the other articles named in these proportions : To every 2 dozen melon mangoes 1 pint of small pickling onions. 1 pint of smallest young cucumbers, 1 pint of smallest green peppers. 1 pint of green string beans. J^ pint of shred horseradish. . 1 tablespoonful smallest red peppers. 3 ounces of mustard seed. 1 ounce each of cloves, allspice and whole black pepper. Binse the small vegetables from the brine, set them over the fire in cold water in separate vegetables, and as soon as they begin to boil take them off and drain dry. Rinse the melons in fresh water and wipe them dry, then fill them, put into them besides the small vegetables a little horseradish and mustard seed. Tie on the end pieces, place the mangoes thus finished in a liree gallon jar. Boil SIX quarts of good vinegar with the pepper and spices in it, pour over the mangoes, cover and let stand twenty-four hours. Drain off, boil the vinegar again and pour it over, and then once or twice more. Keep covered in a cool place. 467— Chocolate Layer Cake* Is made of layers of delicate cake, very white and fine grained, with chocolate icing spread between. The recipes for both are found below. 468— Delicate Cake. 14 ounces granulated sugar — 2 cupfuls. 12 ounces butter — 3 cupfuls, small. 13 ounces of white of eggs — 14 whites. 1 pound of starch and flour mixed — 2 cupfuls of each. Juice (if a lemon, or teaspoonful cream tartar. 3^ cupful of milk. Flavoring extract to fancy. 4 tablespoonfuls of brandy (optional). Soften the butter and rub it and the sugar together to a cream, add the white of eggs a little at a time in the same way that eggs are added in making pound cake, without pre- vious beating, then add the mixed starch and flour and beat most thorougnly. Put in then the letnon juice or other acid, the flavorings and milk and beat again, the more the better for whiteness and fine texture. Bake either in a mold or on jelly cako pans. The use of baking-powder has become so nearly universal the writer finds that the great majority of people are unaware thac the beat cakes can rise and be light and far better without it or any other raising than the butter or eggs that is in them. In the following very fine white cake the cream tartar and soda may seem to be the same thing as using baking powder, but in reaUty they have to be kept apart and managed as directed, or the cake will not be the deUcate cake it is intended to be. 469-Fine White Cake. 18 ounces granulated sugar — 2J^ cups. 8 ounces white butter — 1 large cup. }^ pint of milk — 1 large cup. 5 ounces of corn starch — 1 rounded cup. 12 ounces of fiour — 3 rounded cuns. 3 large teaspoonfuls cream tartar. 1 small teaspoonful of soda. 12 whites of eggs. Vanilla extract to flavor. Sift the cream tartar in the flour three or four times over. Mix the starch in a small bowl with the cup of milk. Get the whites of eggs ready in a tin pail or large whipping bowl. Dissolve the soda in two spoonfuls of milk in a cup. Put the sugar and butler together in the mixing pan, warm them slightly and stir till creamy and add the dissolved soda. Stir in the corn starch and milk. Whip the whites to a firm froth and mix them and the prepared flour in a portion of each alternately. Flavor. Bake as soon as mixed; either in layers for chocolate cake or in a mold. If the latter, frost over when cold. 470— Chocolate Boiled Icios— Best. For spreading between layers of cake and for covering the top, or for dipping cream puffs in to coat them. 1 pound of granulated sugar— 3 cupfuls. 3^ teaoupful of water. 3 ounces of grated chocolate — the common sort — a small cupful. 90 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 4 whole egga. Tanilla flavoring extract. Boil tlie Bugar and water together in a deep saucepan for five minutes, add the chocoelate. When a drop in cold water sets hard almost as candy, stir in the eggs rapidly, beating all the while. Let coo!( about five minutes more with constant stirring. Flavor with vanilla. Beat more or less while it is cooling. Spread or pour it over sheets of cake. It is called best because it cuts well, and does not crack and break off the cakes. 471— Chocolate Boiled Icine Without Ebss. 1 pound of sugar — 3 cupfuls. 14 teacupful of water. 4 ounces of common chocolate, graded — a cup- ful. Boil all together almost to candy point, flavor with vanilla when navtly cooled, beat a short time, spread over the cake. 473 — Chocolate Icint; Not Boiled, 1 pound of sugar — SJ cups — either granulated or powdered will do. 6 whites of eggs. 4 ounces of grated common chocolate — a cup- ful. 3 teaspoonf ula of vanilla extract. Put the sugar and white of eggs together into a bowl and beat rapidly with a wooden spoon or paddle in a cool place for about tea minutes, or until you have good white frosting. Set the grated chocolate on the side of tlie stove to melt merely by the heat, without anything added to it Pour it to the frosting in the bowl, add flavor, beat up and use to cover cakes or spread between layers. 473— Frosted Oranges. Make plain white icing (see former portion of preceding recipe), and use it to dip orange slices in just when it has become too thick with beating not to run off, and yet thin enough to settle to smoothness. Or, if so good that it has already become too firm, thin it by adding the white of another egg or part of one. Prepare the oranges by peeling and separating by the natural divisions, without breaking the covering or getting the pieces wet Have a long splinter or thin skewer ready for each one, and fill a large bowl with sugar or salt and stick them in. Stick the point of a skewer into the edge of the oran'^e section, dip into the frosting, push the other end of the skewer into the bowl of salt, and let the pieces hang over the edge of the bowl m a warm place to dry. MENU NO. XLIII.— DINNER. 474— Veeetible Soup. S quarts of soup stock — S or 10 cups. 3 cuptuls of mixed vegetables. Take for the stock the liquor in which almost any kind of meat has been boiled — beef shank, mutton, heart, tongue, fowl, rabbit, etc., and corned beef liquor does very welL The richer the stock can be, of course, the better it is. Strain it into the soup pot. Skim off most of the fat Almost every kind of vegetable can be used. Take a piece of each and cut all into dice shapes, or, if to be very nice, cut vegetables in slices and stamp out little patterns with a tin cutter or the point of a tin funnel There should be turnips white and yellow, carrot, pumpkin, celery, string beans, green peas, onions, summer squash, cauliflower. If vegetables are scarce, a little parsnip and cabbage and potatoes can be used, but the latter put in late so as not to boil away. Boil the hard vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, onions, string beans and celery, together in a little saucepan first; then pour the water away and put the vegetables in the boiling stock, and add the easy-cooking kinds, such as cauliflower, asparagus heads and peas — whatever may be on hand At last add a piece of red tomato, out small, salt and pepper to taste and a tablespoonful of corn starch mixed in a cup with water. 475-Soft-Shell Crabs, Boiled. Every part of a soft-shell crab is eatable, shell, claws and all, except the sand pouch on the under side, but the small claws should be taken off when the crabs are to be cooked by boiling. Drop the crabs into boiling water already well salted, cook about fifteen minutes, drain, and serve with a sauce at the side. Mayonaise sauce, cold, tomato catsup, hot cream sauce, butter sauce or parsley sauce are suitable kinds. 476— Boiled Bacon, and Cabbage. Cut summer cabbage in quarters and cut out moat of the thick stem part. Let it lie in a pan of cold water until wanted to cook. Put on a saucepan plenty large enough with water and salt and a vei'y Kttle baking soda in it — about the size of a bean for two cabbages — when it boils put in the cabbage and let it cook half an hour. Shave the smoky outside off a pound of baoon and boil the bacon in a saucepan by itself for half hour. Then drain off both cabbage and bacon and put them both together in one pot, pour in boiling water just to cover, put on a good- fitting lid and let them slowly cook together half hour longer. The quarters of cabbage, nice and green ap- pearing, should be drained in the spoon as they are taken up without destroying their shape, and placed in the dish with the bacon sliced on top. CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 91 477— larded rillet ot Bt nf. This 13 rothing if not neat, nuiform, precise and workmanlike in appearance. There must be a pound of fat bacon for larding, cold and firm, so that it can bo out aright Cut the slices a quarter inch thick, cut these in lengths of 1}'^ inches and then into strips all precisely alike and as thick as a common pencil. Procure the iillet or tenderloin of beef with the fat on it, that is ivith the coating of suet that ooTers the upper side of it, and shave that down until the cover- ing of fat is about as thick as a beefsteak all over it Then raise the edge of the fat at one side, skinning the fillet, so to apeak, and lay the sheet of fat over on the other side without cut ting it off. This is to have tln< sheet of fat attached ready to cover over the fillet again after it is larded with the strips of bacon. Draw the point of a sharp kuife across and across the skin inside the fat, to score it so that it will not draw up in cooking. Trim off the thin end of the fillet and round oft tho thick end. Com- mence at the thick end with the larding. Insert a piece of bacon in the end of the larding needle (see No. 430) and draw it through the top parts of the meat pinched up with the left thumb and finger for the purpose, one end of the strip of bacon so inserted wiil be left leaning backward, the other forward, on the surface. Insert 6 or more of these strips m a row across. Begin the next row so that tho strips will come alternately between those of the first, and the exposed ends will cross the others, and so continue, with the regularity of stitching cloth, to the other end. Cover the larded fillet with the sheet of fat. Make a long and narrow baking pan hot in the oven, with a tablespoonf ul of salt and a cup of drippings in it. and enough water to keep the bottom from burning. Put in also a slice of turnip, carrot and onion, and a piece of celery. Have the oven hot, put in the fillet, and roast it with the fat, covering it half an hour ; then take off the fat, baste the fillet with the contents of the pan, and let cook fifteen minutes longer, by which time the surface of the meat should he brown, and bacon strips brown too, witnout being burnt at the ends. Filiets of beet vary in weight and thickness, and the tinw above given is only a guide to the average. Unless specially ordered otherwise, the thick part of the fillet should cut slightly rare in the middle, while the thinner portion is well done. In carving, the fillet should be sliced across vertically because it is a mass of strings of meat lying Hide by side, and if out slantingly the slices begin to be stringy and coarse. A fillet that is to be braised along with herbs, spices, ve;:o- tables, wine, etc., is larded with strips of bacon or fat pork that pass clear through from one side to the oth^r diagonally, so that the slices are cut across when done and show the larding all through the meat. 478— Brown Gravr. Before serving the fillet, or any roast meat, let the gravy in the pan dry down until the urease can be poured off clear, while the glaze remains adhering to the pan; pour in water to dissolve it, and when it has boiled add a trifle of brown fioiir thickening if it seems to need it; strain through a fine strainer; serve some in the dish with the fillet, the rest in a sauceboat. 479-Brown Flom- fur Thickening-. While butter and flour mixed in equal parts and baked brown makes the best tliiekening for gravies, plain browned flour does nearly as well aud is more desirable when the butter is not very good. Put some sifted flour dry into a frying- pan and hake deep brown in the oven. Use it at the rate of a tahlespoonful to a cupful of liquid. Wet with water the same as raw flour, before stirring it in. It may be kept in a can always ready. 480— Slufled lomatoes or 8 large tomatoes. 1 cupful of fine bread crumbs. 1 rounded tahlespoonful of minced onion. 1 heaping tahlespoonful minced fat bacon, or butter in equal amount. S.ight grating of nutmeg. Cayenne and salt. Do not peel the tomatoes, and take a slice off the rou^h stem side and scoop out the inside with a teaspoon into colander, so that the juice may partly drain away. Cat a thin slice or two of bread ana mince it across to make a cupful. Mix the crumbs aud tomato pulp together, ba- con, onion, very little salt, if any, pepper, and touch of nutmeg or mace. Fill the tomatoes with the mixture rounded up on top, bake in small pan well buttered, with a greased sheet of paper over, one-half hour. Then moisten over the tops with the back of a spoon dipped in butter, dredge fine bread crumbs on top and bake again without cover until they are well browned. 481— Chicken CroqUBlics. 3 cupfuls of cut chicken meat — 8 ounces. 1 small cupful of bread panada — 4 ounces. Butter size of an egg. 1 egg. 1 tahlespoonful of chopped parsley.. Lemnn juice, nntmes, salt, pepper. Cracker meal and milk fur breading. Bread panada is stale bread steeped a few 92 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. minutes in cold water and then wrung dry in a cloth. One roll will be enougii for this recipe. Cut the chiciien meat in thin a!rip3 and then aorosB, making very small dice-shapes — a way that is always better than chopping it Mix the meat, panada, cold butter, egg an'l parsley by rubbing together with a spoon, add a squeeze of lemon and half a teaspoonf ul of mixed salt and pepper and slignt grating of nutmeg. This makes seven or eight croquettes in pear shape or round or flattened. To bread them, mix flonr and cracker meal in equal parts together dry. Koll the croquettes in milk, then in the mixture, then in milk and in tlie mixture again, coating them well without rubbing, and drop them into a deep saucepan of hot lard. Let them be well done through and brown. See, also, No. 384. By these two recipes cro- quettes of all kinds of meat can be made. 483— Sauce for CrocjURttes. }4 cupful of brown meat gravy. J^l cupful of fresh butter 14 teaspoonful of white pepper. Salt, if not in the gravy. Boil all together; pour a spoonful over the croquette when served. 483— Terrapin Vol-an-Veiit. 2 oupfuls of cut terrapin moat. 1 cupful of terrapin stock. y{ cupful of sherry. 2 cloves and small scrap of mace and a sprig or two of parsley or savory. 1 tablespoonf ul of butter. 1 tablespoonful of browned flour. Having the terrapin meat already prepared and cold on a dish, as directed in the latter part of No. 453, and the liquor it was boiled in like- wise, set the specified amount of the liquor or stock on to boil, with the seasonings in it. Mix the butter and browned flour together and thicken the liquor with them, add the wine, strain into another saucepan, put in the cut terrapin, add a little salt and cayenne and let simmer a short time at the back of the range. Bake six or eight vol-au-vent cases of puff paste (see No. 256) an. bass, sea, baked, 543. bass, black, fried, 233. bluefish, stuffed, 207. Cisco, or trout, 381. elams, raw, 270. clam fritters, 516. codfish, boiled, 358. crabs, devUled, 556. eels, 221. flnnan baddies, 216. haddock, boiled, 358. lake herring, 595. lobster, in shell, 303. Mackinaw trout, 93. mackerel, boiled, 244. pompano, broiled, 272. pickerel, baked, 199. prawns, in butter, 336. red snapper, 132. salmon, middle cut, 280. steaks, boiled, 20. broiled, 144. shad, broiled, 120. smelts, fried, 402. soft shell crabs, boiled, 475. fried, 530. St li PLji-'on , baked, 419. Floating islands, 211. Fowls, to cut up, 77. stewing, 78. Mets, with asparagus, 550. guinea, broiled, 511. Forcemeat for fish, 87 and 543. boned turkey, 307. balls, for entrees, 157. Freezing ice cream, 38. French rolls, 7. rusks, 45. cream puffs, 262. fried potatoes, 122. peas, in sauce 337. Fresh mushrooms, 63. strawberries, 529. Fried apples, 298. cakes or crullers, 83. crusts for garnishing, 365. oysters, 343. parsley, 49. mush, 224. Fricasseed frogs, 533. Fritters, banana, 169. custard, 436. batter for, 285. parsnip, 125. queen, 33. Spanish puff, 239. sauce for, 437. Frizzed potatoes, 65. Frogs, fried, on toast, 257. fricasseed, 533. Frosting, for cakes, 60. Frosted grapes, 445. oranges, 473. Frozen fig pudding, 441. Fruit cake, layer, 587. rich, 396. richest, or black, 590. pound, 291. molasses, cheap, 503. Walantine, or turkey in jelly, 564. Game. mallard duck, 29. partridge, roast, 434. rissoles of, 384. rabbit, boiled, 492. stewed, 504. potted, 566. prairie chicken, roast, 486 quail, potted, 5C8. reed birds, 385. teal ducks, 404. Gingerbread, common, 185. sponge, 220. wafer, or fairy, 354. cookies, 220. snaps, 17. Glace, Napohtaine, 266. Nosselrodc, 73. Glazed eclairs, 263. Golden sauce for puddings, 324. Goose, roast, 546. Graham muffins, 13. Grapes, frosted, 445. glazed with sugar, 412. ice. Concord, 267. Tokay, 588. sweet pickle, 328. Green peas. 138. Greens, radish or beet, 98. Guinea fowl, broiled, 511. pie, 512. Haddocck, orcod, boiled, 358 Haddies, finnan, 216. Ham, for a festival, 518. cold roast, 261. and spinach, 123. eggs, 536. sandwiches, 519. potted, 462. Hamburgh steak, 505. Handed supper salad, 570. Hard sauce puddings, 203. Head cheese, 596. Heart, stuffed. 195. Hickory nut ice cream, 589. Hominy cakes, fried, 406. Hominy, coarse, 322. grits, 346. pudding, 487. cake, baied, 452. Home-made bread, 88. vinegar, 117. chow-chow, 375. pickles. 111 and 466. HoUandaise sauce, 22. potatoes, 21. Horseradish sauce, 234. Hot slaw, 188. Ices. angelica punch, 485. apricot ice, 395. Concord grape ice, 267. coffee ice cream, 38. fig pudding, frozen, 4-^ 1. hickory nut ice cream. TiS'.i ice cream and strawbt'r- ries, 528. with pure cream, 205. maraschino punch, 288 Neapolitan, 266. Nesselrode, 73. New York ice cream, 153. orange ice, 61. lemon ice or sherbet, 224. red cherry ice, 554. Russian punch, 433. strawberry punch, 214. tutti frutti ice cream. 174. whipped creams, in glasb- es, .581. Icing cake, quickest, 264. Icing and ornamcntinfj, 593. chocolate, 471. yellow, 265. Iced tea, 397. Indian river orange jelly, 578. Indian pudding, baked, 241. fruit pudding, 367. Italian cakes, 212. sauce, 382. JeUy, apple, 331. aspic, or savory. 331. cake, 36. cranberry, 46. lemon, table, 393. roll, 175. soda water, 58. tapioca, 3. wine and fruit, 393. Kale, or seakale, boiled, 494. Kentucky green corn pud- ding, 97. Ketchup, tomato, 600. Kidneys, broiled, 333. Kisses, chocolate, 269. star, 392. liady-fingers, 442. white, 312. Lake herring, or Cisco, 381. potted, 594. Lamb cutlets, broiled, 39. roast, 135. stewed, with tomatoes, 431. tongues, with artichokes, 549. Larded fillet of beef, 477. liver, 235. prairie chicken, 486. Layer fruit cake, 587. Lemonade, egg, for fiftj', 561, plain, 562. Lemon butter sauce, 368. cream pie, 149. honey, 580. drops, 579. mincemeat, 439. mince patties, 438. pie, best, common, 101. rich, 129. cheapest, without eggs 204. frosting for, 103. table jelly, 394. Lettuce salad, 182. Light dumplings, 191. Liver, broiled, 217. and bacon, 223. onions, 235. a !a brochette, 246. cake, or cheese, 286. and pork in gravy, 345. Lobster, in shell, 303, Lobster salad, 287 and 51. Lyonaise potatoes, 506. Macaroni, with cheese, 27. oysters, 510. tomatoes, 238. rissoles of, 305. fried, 259. Macaroon tarts, 70. cake, 56. paste, 57. almond, 72. Mackerel, 244. Maids of honor cheesecakes, 339. Maitre d'hotel sauce, 121. Mallard duck, 29. Mango pickles, 466. Maraschino cream, 278. punch, 288. ice, in glasses, .583. Marmalade, apricot, 457. rhubarb, 440. Mayonaise dressing, 08. mock, 409. jelly, 387. Meat, dish of, cold, 8. balls for soup, 157. Meats. beef, roast, 162. tenderloin of, 424. larded, fillet of, 477. rib ends of, 145. rolls, braised, 11. boiled, with horserad- ish, 234. corned, 1. coUops of, in glaze, 186. steak, porterhouse, 62. tenderloin, 283. family, broiled, 498. Hamourgh, 505. pot-pie, 190. dried, 374. heart, 195. tongue, 569. corned, 422. lamb, roast, 135. stewed, 431. cutlets, 39. tongues, 549. mutton, roast, 544. breast of, 180. boiled, 95. chops, 355. stew, with vegetables, 176. veal, loaf, 248. brisket, stuffed, 200. cutlets, 531. and oyster pie, 321. calf's head, 141. liver, 217. kirlnrys, 333. pork, sausage, 5S9, Moats. pork, head cheese, 596. pig roast, 493. ham, roast, 123. boiled, 518. potted, 462. broiled, 536. chicken pie, 512. roast, 23. stewed, 76. outlets, 48. patties, 255. Maryland style, 293. fried, 450. fillets of, 550. croquettes, 481. timbales v.ith, 304. trulHed, 465. salad, 408. prairie, 486. goose, roast, 546. turkey, roast, 360. with chestnuts, 427. sausage, 327. boned, 306. fillets of, 387. galantine, 564. Measures, cup and spoon, 5. Melon salad, 341. Meringue strawberry, 150. chocolate, 269. cakes, 523. for lemon pies, 103. Meringues filled with j elly, 39 1 Middle cut of salmon, 280. Mincemeat, lemon, 439. good common, 370. Mince patties, 438. Minced potatoes, 41. Mint sauce for lamb, 137. Mock turtle soup, 155. Molasses roll pudding, 189. Muffins, corn meal, 456. graham, 13. wheat, 227. of fight dough, 226. Mush, cracked wheat, 6. corn meal, 215. oatmeal, 292. fried, breaded, 224. plain, 225. Mushrooms, fresh, 63. canned, 64. Mutton chops, 335. roast leg of, 544. ]\fapoleon cake, 52. Neapolitan cake, 585. ice eream, 266. Nesselrode ice cream, 73. ©atmeal mush or porridge, 292. Olives, 415. Omelet, oyster, 66. Omelet with jelly, 338. Peaches and cream, 569. Hollandaise, 21. soufflee, 458. Peach butter, 502. lyonaise, 506. rum, 277. Pear, sweet, salad, 37, maitre d'hotel, 545. with onions, 507. Peas, French canned, 337. mashed, 94. parsley, 507. soup, split, 495. in form, 275. Onion soup, 179. new, green, 138. in mold, 383. Onions, roasted, 187. Pickerel, baked, 199. minced, 41. stuffed, 366. Pickles. parisienne, 282. Orange ice, 61. beets, 116. Saratoga, 222. honey tartlets, 310. celery roots, 114. Potato cream soup, 198. jelly, red, 578. chow-chow, 375. salad, plain, 9. sauce for game, 405. carrots, young, 115. yeast, 107. transparent tarts, 91. grape, sweet, 328. Potage aux amandes, 379. Oranges, breakfast, 449. mangoes, 466. a la reine, 417. frosted, 473. nasturtiums, 111. Potted veal, or veal loaf, 248. Ornamental boned turkey, 564 radish pods, 112. ham, 462. Ornamenting cakes, 593. sweet corn, ears, 113. tongue, 535. Ox-tail soup, 509. Pickle or brine for meat, 106. quail, 568. Oyster plant, stewed, 148. Pineapple, sweet salad, 390. rabbit, 566. croquettes. 426. Pig, roast sucking, 493. lake herring, 595. Oysters, green corn, mock, 12 Pie paste, common, 102 and Pound cake, 74. Oysters. 204. fruitcake, 291. dry stew, 400. Pies. Prairie chicken, 486. fancy stew, 401. apple, plain, 496. Prawns in butter, 336. milk stew, 398. sliced, rich, 240. Pressed corned beef, 597. plain stew, 399. cream, 411. Puddings. stew for fifty, 514. banana, sliced, 489. birds' nest, 127. scalloped in silver shells. cream, 490. bread custard, 140. 380. cocoanut, white, 35. oherrj', steamed, 202. sauteed, in butter, 373. lemon, best, common, 101 corn meal, boiled, 183. fried, without eggs, 515. rich, 129. corn starch, 193. breaded, single and dou- cream, 149. fine hominy, 487. ' ble, 342. mince, 439. Indian, brown, 323. omelet, 66. cheapest, covered, 204. rich, 241. raw, on shell, 413. pumpkin or squash, 369. plum, 367. truffled, 460. raspberry, 563. molasses roU, 189. stuffed, broiled, 461. rhubarb, 172. plum, 170. soup, 279. squash or pumpkm, 325. rice and milk, 178. salad, 308. Washington, 197. custard, baked, 552. sauce, 359. beef pot-pie, 190. suet, boiled, 99. • ^ pies, 349. chicken, 512. tapioca, 495. and veal pie, 321. oyster, 349. Pudding, green corn, 97. and macaroni, 510. squab or pigeon, 209. Yorkshire, for meat, 146. stuffing for fowls, 24. veal and oyster, 321. Pudding sauces. Plain broiling, 40. brandy or wine, 171. Pancakes, country, 559. Plum pudding, 170. cream, 128. Paper cases for charlottes, 575 Poached eggs, 294. ouracoa, 488. rosettes for cutlets, 594. Pompano broiled, 272. golden, 324. cases, 85. Pork sausage, 599. hard butter and sugar, 203 Parsley omelet, 507. Porridge, corn meal, 215. lemon butter, 368. fried, 49. cracked wheat, 6. sugar dip, 184. Parsnips, browned, 163. oatmeal, 292. transparent, 34. mashed, 423. Potatoes. white, 100. fritters, 125. baked and boiled, 192. Puff fritters, 239 and 33. Partridge, rissoles of, 384. baked in milk, 350. Puff paste. 53. roast, 434. boulettes, 292. Puffs, Boston cream, 130. Paste puff, 53. broiled, 334. French cream, 262. sweet tart, 71. browned, 139. cheese curd, 309. macaroon, 57. cream a la, 403. Pumpkin butter, 326. for plain pies, 102. croquettes, 50. custard pie, 369. Pastry cream for puffs, 54. cruUs, 421. Punch, angelica, 485. Patties, small au salpicon, 158 dauphine, 161. cider, 513. chicken, 255. duchesse, 134. maraschino, 288. brains in, 551. French fried, 122. Roman, 28. Patty cases, vol-au-vent, 256. frizzed or shoestring, 65. Russian tea, 433. VI. Punch, stra-vvberry, 214. Salads. Slaw, hot, 188. Puree soups, 355. potato, 9. Smearkase, 110. of beans soup, 356. shrimp, 42. Smoked tongue, 569. turkey, 67. Smelts, 402. Quail, potted, 56S. in mayonaise, 387. Snow cake, 388. Queen fritters, 33. tomatoes, sliced, 119. Soft shell crabs, fried, 550. cakes, 555. in mayonaise, 352. boiled, 475. Quenelles, or egg balls, 156. water cress, 451. Souffles beignets, 33. winter, 416. apple, 353. Rabbit, boiled, salt pork, 492 Salmon, boiled, middle cut, omelet, 458. potted, 565. 280. Soup stocbr management, 18. stewed, 504. steak, broiled, 144. Soups, puree, 355. Radish greens, 98. boiled, 20. crusts for, 357. Ragout of sweetbreads, 364. SaUy lunn tea cakes, 251. Soups. Raisins, to clean, 372. Salsify, stewed, 148. Andalusian, 271. Raspberry tart, 553. croquettes, 426. beans, 318. Raw oysters, 413. Salt whitefish, 320. puree of, 335. clams, 541. mackerel, 245. bouillon, 47. Reed birds, 385. Samp, 346. calf's head, 142. Rechauffe of meat, 8. pudding, 487. cauliflower cream, 206. Red snapper, boiled, 132. Sandwiches, ham, 519. celery cream, 19. cherry ice, 554. of potted quail, 567. consomme royal, 118. Rhubarb marmalade, 440. of potted rabbit, 565. Sevigne, 131. pie, 172. Sandwich rolls, 463. with green peas, 254. Rice batter cakes, 15. Saratoga chips, 223. aux pates d'ltalie, 301. croquettes, 538. Sauces. cream of terrapin, 459. cup custard, 497. apple, 31. julienne, 418. custard pudding, 552. anchovy, 420. leg of beef, 348. milk pudding, 178. bechamel, 166. mock turtle, 155. wafaes, 558. butter, 44. onion, 179. with curries, 596. brown butter, 482. oyster, 279. Rissoles of macaroni, 305. caper, 96. ox- tail, 509. partridge, 384. chestnut, 428. potage a la reine, 417. Rolls butter, 330. cranberry, 361. aux amandes, 379. French, 7. cream, 130. potato cream, 198. finest breakfast, 537. egg, 320. Scotch barley, 92. Vienna, 218. hoUandaise, 22. spUt peas, 491. sandwich, 463. horseradish, 234. terrapin, 542. Roman punch, 28. Italian, 382. tomato, 232. cream, 253. maitre d'hotel, 121. vegetable, 474. Rum omelet, 277. mint, 137. Sour milk cheese, 110. Russian punch, 433. orange, for game, 405. Spaghetti with cheese, 432. Rusks, or coflfeo calces, 45. oyster, 359. Spanish puff fritters, 239. Rutabagas, 181. Scotch fish, 281. stew, 274. shrimp, 133. Spinach, 124. Salad dressing, without oU, tartar, 160. Sponge cake, four-egg, 442. 250. tartar or Russian, 273. water, 378. best, 571. pudding sauces — index P. savoy, 151. mayonaise, 68. Sauce, dumplings cooked in, 2 ginger cake, 220. mock mayonaise, 409. Sausage, pork, 599. Spring chicken, 293. Salads. turkey or chicken, 327. Squab or pigeon pie, 209. cabbage, 32. Savory jelly, 317. Squash pie, 325. cauliflower, 249. Scalloped oysters, 380. summer, 201. celery, 32. Scotch seed cake, 105. winter, baked, 429. chicken, 408. barley soup, 92. Steamed brown bread, 81. crab, 276. Scrambled brains, 551. Steak, salmon, 20 and 144. cucumber, 143. Sea bass, baked, 543. double tenderloin, 283. dressed crab, 435. Seakale, 496. porterhouse, 62. egg, 260. Shad, maitre d'hotel, 120. Hamburgh, 505. for handed supper, 570. Sherbet, lemon, 242. Stew, oyster, 398. lettuce, 182. Shortcake, apple, 410. for fifty, 514. lobster, 51 and 287. strawberry, 524. Stewed terrapin, 455. melon, 341. Shrimp sauce, 133. frogs, 533. pear, sweet, 37. toast, 500. Strawberry charlottes, 576. pineapple, sweet, 390. Slaw, cold, 414. punch, 214. strawberry shortcake, 524. ■whipped cream, 577. meringue, 150. Strawberries, fresh, 529. and ice cream, 528. String beans, 164. French dressed. 407. Stuffing for boned duck, 90. bread, 30. oyster, 24. Stuffed oysters, broiled, 461. tomatoes, 480. onions, 366. veal, 200. Sturgeon, baked, 419. Suet pie crust, 321 and 102. pudding, 99. Sugar tops, 526. glaze, 55. Summer squash, 201. Sucking pig roast, 493. Sweetbreads, to cook, 363. au beurre noir, 26. ragout of, 364. larded, 430. Sweet pickle, 328. Sweet potatoes, fried, 295. browned, 362. sauteed, 532. baked, 499. Sweet salad, pear, 37. pineapple, 390. Tapioca jelly, 3. pudding, 495. cup custard, 497. Tartar sauce, 160. Tartlets, orange honey, 310. Tarts, apple, 574. macaroon, 70. orange, 91. chocolate cream, 173. raspberry, 553. three-cornered, 574. Tea, iced, 397. for a large party, 591. cakes, 251. Teal, broiled, 404. Tenderloin of beef, 424. steaks, 283. Terrapin, baked in shell, 454. cream soup, 459. soup, 542. stewed, 455. to dress, 453. , vol au vents, 483. Timbales with chicken, 304. Tomatoes and com, 258. with macaroni, 238. soup, 232. stewed, 210. ketchup, 600. stuffed, 480. in mayonaise, 352. sUced. 119. Toast, buttered, 557. Toast tongue, 534. shrimp, 500. Tokay grape ice, 588. Tongue, corned, 422. smoked, 569. potted, 535. toast, 534. lambs', 549. Truffled chicken, 465. oysters, 460. Turkey, boned, 306. galantine, 564. salad, 67. roast, cranberry, 360. chestnuts, 427. fillets, in mayonaise, 387. sausage, 327. Turnips, mashed, 181. Tutti frutti ice cream, 174. Veal cutlets, breaded, 531. brisket, stuffed, 200. and oyster pie, 321. loaf, 248. potted, 247. Vegetable soup, 474. artichokes, butter sauce, 548. in gravy, 549. asparagus on toast, 25. points, garnish, 550. beans, baked, 296. Lima, or butter, 547. string, 164 and 407. navy, stewed, 196. beets, boiled, 1. pickled, 116, cabbage, summer, 476. wiiiter, 1. cauliflower, 236. celery, 302. stewed, 386. with cheese, 126. com, 258. fried, 12. green com pudding, 97. cucumbers, 143. stewed, 484. egg plant, fried, 237. in batter, 284. green peas, 138. canned, 337. greens, radish, 98. spinach, 124. beet, 98. hominy, 322. kale, 494. lettuce, 182. mushrooms, canned, 64. fresh, 63. onions, boiled, 1. fried, 235. stuffed, 366. roasted, 187. oyster plant, 148. Vegetables. oyster croquettes, 426. parsnips, boiled, 1. browned, 163. mashed, 423. fritters, 125. potatoes — index P. radish greens, 98. rutabagas, 181. spinach, 124. salsify, 148. slaw, hot, 188. sweet potatoes — index S. squash, summer, 201. winter, 429. tomatoes, 119.. stewed, 210. with com, 258. stuffed, baked. 480. turnips, boiled, 1. mashed, 181. yams, halved, 499. Vienna rolls, 218. Vinegar, home-made, 117. Vol-au-vents, or patty cases, 256. of terrapin, 483. chicken, 255. Wafer gingerbread, 354. Waffles, rice, 558. baking powdei", 540. yeast-raised, 539. Washington pie, 197. _ Water cress salad, 451. Water sponge cake, 378. Wedding cake, 396 and 444. Welsh rarebit, 69. Wheat muffins, 226. porridge, 6. White cake, fine, 469. coffee, for party, 592. jelly roll, 252. ' lady fingers, 312. mountain cake, 586. sponge cake, 443. Whitefish, baked, 159. AVhipped cream, 313. frozen in glasses. 581. strawberry for charlottes, 577. Wine custard, 213. jelUes, 393. meringues with, 391. Winter salad, 416. squash, 429. Yeast batter cakes, 508. doughnuts, 16. graham muffins, 13. waffles, 539. Yeast, dry hop, 108. potato, 107. Yams, baked, 499. Yellow icing, 265. Yorkshire pudding, 146