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Digitized by the Internet Archive 
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John W. Swift, 
 
 Chief Yeoman, U. S. Navy. 
 
An Iowa Boy 
 
 Around the World 
 
 in the Navy. 
 
 A TRUE STORY OF OUR NAVY 
 By J NO. W. SWIFT, 
 
 BLOOMFIELD, IOWA. 
 
 1898-1902 
 
 MCMI I 
 
 THE KENYON PRINTING & MFG. CO. 
 
 DES MOINES 
 
["THE LIBRARY Of 
 CONGRESS, 
 .». Oiip*es ReciavEO 
 
 JUN. 2B 1902 
 
 Dedicated to 
 
 " Miauntie." 
 
 
 Copyright Applied For 1902. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 FT IS, perhaps, a man's duty to write of such experiences as are 
 related in this book, for the benefit of young men, who, 
 knowing not what they want, want everything. 
 
 Those who may feel skeptical as to the truth of these writ- 
 ings are respectfully referred to the following newspaper article 
 and letters: 
 
 The Davis County Republican, Bloomfield, Iowa, Thursday, January 16, 1902. 
 
 Happy Reunion at Ottumwa— John W. Swift, a Davis County Boy, 
 Returns After Service in the Navy. 
 
 AS ANNOUNCED in these columns last week John W. Swift has re- 
 turned home after three years' service in the United States navy. 
 He was interviewed in Ottumwa by a Courier reporter after which 
 the following appeared in Saturday's paper: 
 
 A happy family reunion took place in Ottumwa last night when J. D. Swift 
 and family, a stock farmer whose home is near Bloomfield, met and ex- 
 changed greetings, for the first time in four years, with his son, John W. 
 Swift, late chief yeoman on the United States cruiser Brooklyn and con- 
 fidential stenographer to Admiral George C. Remey, commander of the 
 Asiatic squadron. The son was married at Whitney's Point, N. Y., last 
 week to Miss Edythe M. Allen, of that place, and they spent yesterday in 
 Ottumwa, meeting his relatives in this city last evening. They are now at 
 the Swift homestead in Davis county and will make their future home in or 
 near Bloomfield. 
 
 Mr. Swift left Bloomfield about four years ago and joined the First 
 Ohio Volunteer cavalry. This regiment did not get nearer to the seat of 
 war than the camps in the southern states and this did not satisfy the Davis 
 county volunteer; who had enlisted because he wanted to see service. 
 After being discharged from the cavalry, Mr. Swift enlisted in the navy as a 
 landsman, the lowest rating in the service. He requested to be sent to the 
 Philippines and the request was granted. 
 
 The trip to the far east was made via the Suez canal route, and when 
 Mr. Swift arrived in Asiatic waters he was assigned to the Bennington as 
 captain's writer. About this time President Schurman of Cornell University, 
 chairman of the peace commission, made a visit to the Philippines for the 
 purpose of investigating conditions there. The Bennington was detailed to 
 take President Schurman on his tour of the islands, and on this trip Mr. 
 
Swift visited all the important Philippine ports and obtained a splendid in- 
 sight into the affairs of the Filipinos. 
 
 During his service on the Bennington, Yeoman Swift was afforded some 
 exciting experiences during engagements with the Filipinos. The Ben- 
 nington was regularly used as a cruiser, with instructions to watch for 
 contraband of war. Daily it hailed and stopped Filipino boats, some of 
 which showed fight and some refused to stop. These were sunk. The Ben- 
 nington also took part in the bombardment of San Jose on the island of 
 Negros, and near Albay, on the island of Luzon, the cruiser conducted an- 
 other successful bombardment in which a number of Filipinos were given 
 a good understanding of the ability of the Americans to shoot accurately. 
 
 Just before the siege of Peking, Yeoman Swift, who had meanwhile been 
 promotedin turn to the positions of third, second and first class yeoman, 
 was made chief yeoman and transferred to the Brooklyn, Admiral Remey's 
 flagship. He was on the ship off Taku, China, the naval base during 
 these exciting times, from July 8 to October n, 1900. Here messages from 
 Minister Conger and others who were in the besieged capital city at the 
 time were received, having been carried through the native lines by faith- 
 ful Chinese who managed to make their way without being killed. 
 
 Six or seven copies of each message were entrusted to as many faithful 
 Chinese and these heroic men would make a dash through the lines for the 
 coast. One or two of each group would get through while their comrades 
 would be killed in the attempt. The messages were received on board the 
 vessels of the allied powers in the bay of Taku, the ones from the Ameri- 
 cans going to the Brooklyn, where it was Yeoman Swift's duty to transcribe 
 them into cipher and make them ready for the cable operators at Chefu, where 
 the China end of the trans-Pacific cable was located. This was the work 
 which was done by the Davis county man during the months at Taku, in 
 addition to other official and confidential work for Admiral Remey. 
 
 Mr. Swift wrote the order which sent the Vicksburg on her voyage in 
 the Philippines to support Gen. Funston when that famous Kansan captured 
 Aguinaldo, and the admiral's chief yeoman handled much other official 
 business of importance and national moment. So satisfactory was his work 
 that on leaving the service in November, 1901, at the expiration of his term 
 of enlistment, Mr. Swift was given two letters, one from the chief in the 
 clerical department, and one from Admiral Remey himself, commending 
 the yeoman for his excellent, painstaking, faithful work. These documents 
 are naturally valued very highly by Mr. Swift. 
 
 While on board the Brooklyn, Mr. Swift made the voyage to Mel- 
 bourne, Australia, when the first Australian parliament was opened. Here 
 the Brooklyn was the center of attraction, and it was estimated that during 
 her stay in the Australian harbor she was visited by thousands of people 
 who desired to inspect the ship which had helped to bring about Admiral 
 Cervera's defeat in Santiago harbor. 
 
 Mr. Swift announces that he has quit the navy for good and all. He 
 will go into business somewhere in Davis county and spend the rest of his 
 life in the United States. He expects soon to write a book regarding his 
 experiences and his views of the country's navy, something of which has 
 been given in the preceding. 
 
Office of the COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF 
 
 UNITED STATES NAVAL FORCE ON ASIATIC STATION 
 FLAGSHIP BROOKLYN. 
 
 Yokohama, Japan, Nov. 15, 1901. 
 
 Jno. W. Swift, Chief Yeoman U. S. Navy, has served in this office 
 under my immediate supervision and direction, for sixteen months, and 
 leaves now only because his term of enlistment is about to expire. 
 
 As a stenographer and typewriter he has fully proved himself to be 
 capable, careful, industrious and willing. The work in this office has re- 
 quired long hours, with little regard to Sundays and holidays, and the con- 
 ditions of climate and shipboard life have been at times very trying. I have 
 good reason to recommend Swift for zeal, interest and faithfulness in his 
 work; and would be glad to have his services again. 
 
 (Signed) R. R. Belknap, 
 
 Lieutenant, U. S. Navy, 
 
 Aide to Commander-in-Chief. 
 
 Office of the COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF 
 
 UNITED STATES NAVAL FORCE ON ASIATIC STATION 
 FLAGSHIP BROOKLYN 
 
 Yokohama, Japan, Nov. 15, 1901. 
 
 J. W. Swift, Chief Yeoman, U. S. Navy, has served as a stenographer 
 and typewriter in my office for nearly eighteen months. I have no per- 
 sonal knowledge of the details of conducting the work of my office, but my 
 aide in charge of it has repeatedly spoken in approving terms of the yeo- 
 men; and the papers prepared by them as they came before me testify to 
 their competency. The work has been voluminous for the small force to 
 handle it, and has had to be done with dispatch often under trying con- 
 ditions. I consider myself fortunate to have had such capable men in my 
 office as Swift has shown himself to be. 
 
 As he leaves the station now, going to the United States for discharge, 
 upon the expiration soon of his enlistment, I wish him success in his future 
 occupation. 
 
 (Sgd.) Geo. C. Remey, 
 Rear Admiral, U. S. Navy, 
 Commander-in-Chief. 
 
. CHAPTEK I. 
 
 GREAT BROADWAY, NEW YORK MEN WANTED TO GO TO WAR 
 
 CHUM WANTED TO EIGHT ENLISTED ILL IN HOS- 
 PITAL PROMOTED TWELVE THOUSAND MILES 
 
 VOYAGE VIA SUEZ CANAL ROUTE TO THE 
 ORIENT. 
 
 IN THE EVENING of December 1, 1898, the bitter cold 
 northern wind whistled down great Broadway, hacking 
 the faces of rich and poor alike as they flitted about the 
 corners of the great buildings, intent, as New Yorkers always 
 are, each on his own particular mission, but all familiarly akin 
 in that mad turmoil of business. 
 
 The streets of the city were filled to overflowing with the 
 multitude of jostling, tired and hurrying people; natives of 
 every country on earth intermingled in one great seething mass 
 of humanity, moving constantly onward in two streams — from 
 the city to suburban homes, and from suburban factories down 
 town to lodgings. There were men, women and children from 
 every walk of life, scurrying onward, their faces set in all the 
 varieties of expression peculiar to mankind. In sympathy with 
 this endless double stream of humanity completing the scene 
 of great Broadway, came the thundering rattle of traffic inter- 
 mingled with the roaring commands to "move on" of those 
 greatest of earth's peacekeepers and life savers, the Broadway 
 police. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 How sad it is to tread great Broadway and read the separate 
 story of each pedestrian in his or her face as we pass ; to note 
 the great majority of unhappiness. I was studying these peo- 
 ple, and, as we often do, comparing the history seen in their 
 faces with my own ; and, as I thus witnessed the panoramic view 
 of lives, it slowly dawned upon me that my lot was a fair one ; 
 that, after all, it was tolerably happy, almost without my know- 
 ing it. 
 
 Chum inquired the reason of my protracted silence, remark- 
 ing that life in ISTew York made him dull, and wished that we 
 might hit upon some plan for excitement. I reminded him 
 that, as long as we had health and good positions, we should be 
 satisfied with well enough, and censured him for his discontent. 
 
 As we turned off Twenty-second street in the direction of our 
 lodgings we noticed a large placard reading, "Men Wanted to 
 Fight." We stopped and read all about it. Uncle Sam wanted 
 men in his navy to go to the Philippines and "lick" the natives. 
 Chum immediately wanted to fight. I laughed at him, remind- 
 ing him of our unsatisfactory experience during the war with 
 Spain, fighting mosquitos in Chickamauga, Florida and Ala- 
 bama camps, merely to earn the appellation of "tin soldier,' 1 
 but he would not listen; said he was looking for just such 
 excitement, and if I would not go with him he would go alone, 
 and I might go to the dickens. I told him I had no great desire 
 to go to the dickens, wherever that might be, but thought pos- 
 sibly that was better than the Philippine Islands. 
 
 Now, Chum was a good fellow, but he had one very, very, 
 bad habit — he wanted to "run things." This was all right in 
 
Enlisted." 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 11 
 
 itself, and interesting, but for one fact — I had the same habit. 
 Consequently his determination to fight the "wily Filipino'' 
 led to a heated discussion that evening when we reached home, 
 with the usual result — I got the worst of it and had to give ia 
 a little, because he could talk louder. In brief, we decided that: 
 he should enlist in the navy and I should go my own way ; but 
 withal we continued friendly. 
 
 Promptly at nine o'clock the next morning we were at the 
 recruiting office .at the New York Navy Yard, on the old United 
 States receiving ship Vermont. I can see now, in fancy, ithe 
 entrance of two dudish looking young fellows on that old vessel 
 which has taken so many boys from home, and can, now that I 
 understand the customs of men of our navy, imagine with what 
 amusement we were looked upon by these jolly boys of the sea. 
 To an old sailor it is one of the funniest sights possible to wit- 
 ness the awkward embarrassment of a "rookie." They appear 
 to be unaware that anyone from the outside world is about to 
 enter their realm, their faces remain calm and apparently 
 disinterested, but all the while they are watching with the deep- 
 est cunning for "green remarks" or "blunders" of this "rook," 
 so that they may attach a nickname that will be characteristic 
 .and follow him to the end of his service. They are very friend- 
 ly, however, and when once the "rook" gets into uniform, will 
 assist him in every possible manner with regard to lashing his 
 hammock, packing his clothes in the queer canvas bag used in 
 the navy, and other duties necessary in the education of a 
 man-of-war's-man. 
 
12 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 After standing in line for about two hours, waiting our turn 
 in the recruiting office, we were finally admitted. The recruit- 
 ing officer looked, us over and remarked that there were "too 
 darn many kids running .away from good homes to see the 
 world, and for us to get hack to dad as fast as our legs could 
 carry us." He said they did not generally enlist boys who wore 
 good clothes and looked under age except with their parents' 
 consent. 
 
 It was with no little trouble that we finally managed to make 
 this gentleman understand that Chum really wanted to fight, 
 and had the right to enlist in Uncle Sam's navy. However, it 
 was finally settled, and, as he stooped over to sign his name 
 for three years' service, pausing with uplifted pen, with all the 
 honest affection of a thorough chum, he said : "S.ay, John, you 
 are not going back on me now, are you ? After all we've been 
 through together for years ?" 
 
 I hesitated, and thereby was lost. I, too, signed my name 
 for three years' service, and we went below to the doctor for 
 physical examination, each with the grandest feeling of proven 
 affection that man can understand. 
 
 When a mere man so far forgets others as to imagine he is 
 vastly superior because he wears good clothes, it would be a 
 kindness like unto the love of God to send him to a recruiting 
 doctor's office. There he will learn just how much of a man 
 he really is ; stripped to the skin, standing in a row of sturdy 
 figures, all his fine raiment gone, the overwhelming fact ap- 
 pears that the poor, ragged, dirty, unkept, miserable tramp, 
 that he felt the deepest heartache for a few moments ago, is, 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 13 
 
 in fact, a man beside whom his own poor, miserable, ill-shaped, 
 shivering figure can make no possible comparison. 
 
 Though the latter description is most accurate of my per- 
 sonal physique, the doctor passed me into the navy, but of all 
 the ridiculous pranks of circumstances here appeared the 
 worst, Chum was found to have defective teeth and debarred 
 from enlistment. 
 
 We said a few things that would look ill in print ; the doc- 
 tor said other things that would look worse in print; and, 
 finally, between the doctor's desire to impress upon us the 
 dignity of his office and our desire to have Chum enlisted, a 
 few words were spoken that could not be printed at all. But, 
 after much persuasion, he was finally admitted, defects being 
 waived. 
 
 After nearly a day's attendance on various officials, Ave were 
 finally able to walk on deck with a fine outfit of sailor "togs," 
 and forty-five dollars in debt for them, with salaries of sixteen 
 dollars per month with which to settle the account. 
 
 The next morning we were promenading the gun-deck, try- 
 ing to imitate the old sailor walk and manner, so that we might 
 not be considered "rookies" or green men, as the term "rookie" 
 is the most galling title a "Jackie" can have. A't night amid 
 strange surroundings, in a hammock swung between two beams, 
 had given us ample opportunity to realize the magnitude of the 
 step we had taken. To feel that you have given up all inde- 
 pendence of action or speech is to look with the deepest regret 
 upon the days of freedom, and to yearn with all the power 
 
14 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 of daily increasing eagerness for the return of such independ- 
 ence. 
 
 Sailors in the navy are kept from the terrible state of in- 
 sanity by constant employment of body and mind, regardless 
 of the necessity or importance of the work performed, so that 
 it was nothing extraordinary when a big brute of ,a Dutchman 
 seized me by the .arm, roared out a terrible oath, and asked 
 "who the devil" I was; then before I could frame a reply to 
 such an .astounding approach, gave me a push and ordered me 
 in no gentle manner to "take them 'spit-kits' out and clean 
 them." Choking back wrath desperately, I contemplated first 
 the "spit-kit," as he called it, and then the "spitter," and, 
 though it was half a keg and six inches deep in tobacco mixed 
 with other ingredients too numerous to mention, I concluded 
 that of the two the "kit" was preferable, and accordingly 
 stooped over to lift it, when some one sang out my name. I 
 answered at once, of course, and was told to "lay below" to the 
 "captain's office." I promptly left bolth tlhe "kit" and the 
 "spitter," and "layed." 
 
 Stepping over the threshold, I at once recognized instinc- 
 tively the .atmosphere of culture and refinement. Having read 
 of the education and refinement of Annapolis graduates, and 
 of the brutal coarseness of common sailors, I jumped to the 
 conclusion that the captain's clerk must be an officer. How- 
 ever, we must all learn by experience, .and it was not till many 
 months later that I thoroughly learned that gentlemen are 
 born, not made. Mr. Doyle had been just a common sailor for 
 many years, and was then holding .a warrant position of mate 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 15 
 
 in the navy, and had never seen Annapolis officially. With 
 what patience, kindness, and encouragement that good man led 
 me into the knowledge of the duties it w,as my lot to perform 
 during the next three years! Carefully, gently, firmly, he 
 guided the "rookie" until very soon that appellation of unhappi- 
 ness ceased to be connected with me. 
 
 Dear old Chum was sent in two days to the cruiser Chicago 
 for duty as berth-deck cook, while I remained temporarily 
 in the office of the captain until, at Ithq end of a month, the 
 doctor pronounced me contagious with erysipelas of the face 
 and ordered me to be transferred to the Brooklyn Navy Hos- 
 pital. Among a great number of men disease runs rampant, 
 and my case was nothing out of the general rule. 
 
 With all baggage I was at once ambulanced to the pest- 
 house, ,as the contagious ward is called, where I made the sixth 
 patient. In accordance with the run of my luck during that 
 period of life, the nurse, who had been detailed to take care of 
 us, became quite ill, and it was necessary for me to volunteer 
 to nurse myself and all the others. All clothing was sent to the 
 fumigating room except what we wore, making it necessary 
 to either wear soiled clothing or wash it and remain in bed 
 until it was again ready to wear, as "Johnie Jones" is said 
 to have made shift while his "Ma" mended his one pair of 
 trousers. Two cases of measles, two of scarlet fever, the nurse 
 with la grippe, a case of my own ailment and myself, made the 
 position I occupied one of no little danger and responsibility. 
 
 To aggravate one's mental torment, under the situation, the 
 dead house was just outside the window, where its ghastly occu- 
 
16 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 pants could be seen ; the naval cemetery near by held daily recep- 
 tions, and military death salutes reverberated with painful reg- 
 ularity through the air; and last, coffins were stored in the 
 garret, their carriage to and fro making one of the daily 
 encouraging sights for the sick — encouraging, but not to re- 
 covery. 
 
 It was necessary, however, to get well if one wished to 
 leave, therefore my recovery was quite rapid, and four weeks 
 later found me back on the Vermont under orders to proceed in 
 the United States steamer Solace, to Manila, to join Dewey's 
 fleet, where I had requested to be detailed. 
 
 In 'the evening prior to my departure, Gaum came over from 
 the Chicago to bid me good-bye, and the conversation between 
 us will always remain clear to my mind. Through many trying 
 situations that carried us, sometimes very near death's door, 
 this capital fellow had proven himself true and it was with 
 deepest sorrow and regret that we each bade farewell to a com- 
 rade dearer than men usually become, and could we have known 
 at that time what later events have brought forth, our sorrow 
 would have been ten-fold; for we have never met again, and 
 his trials and adventures if related in detail would be heart- 
 rending. A noble man persecuted, it sometimes seems, by 
 circumstances. 
 
 In the afternoon of February 1, 1899, the United States 
 steamer Solace, laden with supplies of provisions, ammunition 
 and a draJt of 180 petty officers and seamen, steamed out of 
 New York harbor on her long voyage to Uncle Sam's new pos- 
 sessions, the Philippine Islands. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 17 
 
 Deep down in my heart, beyond the point of forgetfulness, 
 lies the memory of that parting from my native land. Vividly 
 as though it were but yesterday, the scene with .all attendant 
 partings and affections recurs to make me live again, in fancy, 
 this sad leave taking. 
 
 Imagine a boy among strangers, in dress and surroundings 
 unfamiliar, leaving home, friends, country, to take part in war, 
 an unknown and an untried condition, with no kind relatives 
 or friends to bid him a last farewell and wish him Godspeed, 
 and you can guess, perhaps, my feelings on that eventful day. 
 There is no certainty of returning from such ,a mission, and as 
 I gazed upward at the great Brooklyn Bridge arched high over 
 our heads on passing out of the anchorage, and looked, per- 
 haps, for the last time upon the panoramic view presented be- 
 fore me, hot, rushing tears that would not be kept back came 
 to relieve me. There were very few dry eyes on the ship. 
 
 One felt instinctively that some of his friends and relatives, 
 perhaps the dearest ones of all, would not be there when he 
 returned if he, through God's providence, should be spared. 
 I will add that such has been the case, some are gone. 
 
 Joining the boys on deck I enjoyed some very pleasant scen- 
 ery, and before long forgot pain for the time being in look- 
 ing at the great forts, whose awe inspiring guns peeped down 
 upon us from both sides of the harbor. Steaming down oppo- 
 site Thompkinsville, the Solace dropped anchor for the night 
 and to see that everything was in perfect order before trusting 
 herself to the great treacherous Atlantic. 
 
18 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 There was considerable fun going on that evening. All hands 
 started in to make themselves comfortable for a forty day voy- 
 age, and not being acquainted with the rules of the ship many 
 laughable occurrences took place. For instance, one young 
 man approached the officer-of-the-deck and requested to be 
 informed of the number and location of his room. 
 
 The look of disgust that came to that old sea officer was 
 something comical. Calling his messenger, he ordered him to 
 show the young man down to hook number two-thirty-four on 
 the berth deck. The young man thanked him very graciously 
 but asked the messenger as they went below, why the officer-of- 
 the-deck had looked so queer when he asked him for a room. 
 But when the messenger pointed out to him hook number two- 
 thirty-four, and finally made him understand that his room 
 consisted of two hooks on cross beams, a hammock and eighteen 
 inches space in which to swing it, among a hundred other men, 
 he understood. At least I think he did, by his language, and I 
 believe he was actually homesick and wished for his trundle 
 bed. 
 
 However, one soon becomes accustomed to the privation of 
 ship board life and long before our voyage was ended we were 
 thoroughly comforltable as to sleeping accommodations. Food 
 was another question. We were ill-fed, and it occurred in this 
 manner : The draft of about one hundred and eighty men was 
 composed largely of rookies who had never been to sea. They 
 did not know that to live well it is necessary to lay in sea 
 stores, and with the navy ration then in use the cooks should 
 be experienced. Unless handled by experienced cooks, the 
 
c 
 
 DO 
 
 o 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 21 
 
 navy ration then used would not make a man uncomfortably fat. 
 Of course, the naval officials having had experience should 
 look out for new men in such cases, but to the best of my 
 knowledge, during that voyage, the paymaster simply served 
 out the regular allowance and let the men look out for them- 
 selves. I can testify even now that I was hungry for the next 
 forty-four days, until arrival at Manila where, on being trans- 
 ferred to regular cruising ships, we fared better. On the 
 Solace fights occurred nearly every day, .at meals, among men, 
 and I credit their ill-humor principally to their lack of good 
 wholesome food and plenty of it. 
 
 The next morning came clear, bright and majestic, with 
 a sea smooth as glass. After the cold weather and disagree- 
 able thoughts of the previous day, you may well believe that 
 it was with much better spirits that we weighed anchor and 
 started for the broad Atlantic. 
 
 To our rear the Goddess of Liberty, standing with upraised 
 hand, seemed to bid us a pleasant voyage and safe return. 
 Looking to the left I espied the Chicago World's Fair wonder, 
 the "Ferris Wheel," standing high over Coney Island, and it 
 recalled to my mind the greatness of the country I was leav- 
 ing which was so well exhibited during that exposition. Then 
 came the entrance to the harbor with strong fortifications on 
 either side, standing silently by in all their greatness, whilst 
 the representatives of all friendly nations pass through. On 
 that morning we found the Atlantic as calm as the bay had 
 been, and it remained so for several days. 
 
22 AROUKD THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 It was the Navy Department's orders for the Solace to 
 stand along the coast to Hampton Roads, where she arrived 
 the next day. This place is quite pretty as seen from the sea. 
 The greatest object of interest to me was the magnificent 
 hotels on the beach. They are so arranged as to accommo- 
 date several thousand people, and are built in sections, which 
 can be taken down and removed, it is said, without injury, in 
 three hours, disclosing in their rear a long row of disappearing 
 rapid fire guns. Just opposite the hotels across the bay on an 
 island stands the old Fort Monroe, partly in ruins. 
 
 The most inspiring thought to me at that time wasi that 
 I was on the exact spot where that great fight of the Civil 
 War took place between the Monitor and the Merrimac. 
 
 Here the vessel was coaled, all hands assisting in that 
 operation, and when I found myself passing baskets of coal in 
 the hold of the ship, it was with a feeling of considerable 
 disgust and a faint regret that I had undertaken the service. 
 
 Before leaving ISFew York I was promoted from the lowest 
 position, Ithat of landsman, in which rating I enlisted, to 
 yeoman, third class, a clerical position, and a third class 
 petty officer. At Hampton Roads I was informed that third 
 class petty officers must coal ship, but that those above that 
 class were exempt, so I made up my mind at once that third 
 class could not hold me long. There were eight of us promoted 
 at the same time, all rookies. Of this number two of us, 
 during the next three years, reached the position of chief 
 yeoman, one yeoman second class, two died, two deserted, and 
 the eighth was court-martialed and disrated. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 23 
 
 This is a fair per cent of good luck in the navy, T believe. 
 There were no vacancies on the Solace for so many clerks, as 
 she carried a regular ship's company, so we were not required 
 to perform any duty after the first co.aling at Hampton Roads 
 until the completion of our voyage. 
 
 After a two days' stay in Hampton Roads, the Solace headed 
 directly across the Atlantic for Gibraltar. Though quite 
 chilly, the weather continued fair until the seventh day out, 
 when a high wind arose which whipped, tossed, and tumbled, 
 the mighty waves in a fashion that seem to try severely tjb.e 
 powers of the Solace. She creaked and groaned while the tre- 
 mendous waves pounded and slushed against her sides, 
 or rolling at her stern lifted it entirely out of the 
 water, sometimes lifting the great ship bodily on) the crest of 
 a wave, permitting her to slide down into the hollow of -tthe 
 sea bow on, until the decks were washed from bow to stern. 
 
 Many were ill, pots .and kettles becoming loosened from 
 their racks, clashed and clattered about the decks; hatches 
 were baittened down, and tables could not be set because of 
 the terrible rolling and pitching. Several ridiculous mishaps 
 occurred to give mirth to the occasion. One fellow succeeded, 
 by holding on to the bag rail, in reaching the mess chest where 
 his cook gave him a plate of "salt-horse," beans, a pickle and 
 a tine up of coffee. With both hands full he attempted to 
 cross the deck, during a lull in the motion of the ship^ but 
 a sudden lurch landed him fifteen feet away in the scupper, 
 with the food and coffee on top of him. I took my plate and 
 coffee and sat down on the deck at once, iholding it safely 
 
24 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 between my knees, when an unusually heavy roll simply slid 
 me, victuals and all, nearly .across the deck. Then as she 
 rolled back the other way, I returned to my original position 
 safe and sound, not even spilling a drop of coffee. 
 
 To aggravate those suffering from sea sickness, it is an 
 old, custom of sailors to tie a piece of fat pork on the end of 
 a string and go about the decks proffering the use of it to 
 various victims of the sea. The idea intended to suggest, I 
 believe, is that it would be ,a pleasant pastime to have the 
 meat pulled up and down one's (throat. 
 
 A sailor of my acquaintance was very sea sick on this 
 voyage, and in recounting his experience later remarked that 
 at first he was afraid] he was going to die, but later he was 
 afraid he would not. 
 
 Several sharks followed us day by day, and a number of 
 whales were seen spouting. Sea gulls from New York fol- 
 lowed us three days out but finally reached the limit of their 
 daring and returned. There is a specie of small gull that 
 live in mid-ocean, which were constantly with us. I think 
 they followed us the entire distance to Gibraltar. 
 
 After thirteen days without sight of land, the lookout in 
 the "crow's nest" cried "land ho," and just as the golden 
 sun was sinking below the horizon, we spied the great rock of 
 Gibraltar. This is the greatest fortification in the world, 
 is owned by the British and is the key to the European situa- 
 tion. Simply a gigantic rock pigeonholed with gun-ports from 
 which protrude dozens of great gums that might defy the 
 entire world with safety. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 25 
 
 The Solace did not stop at Gibraltar, and it was my mis- 
 fortune that she passed by that world-renown place at night. 
 Though with all the lights it made a pretty picture, I should 
 rather have seen it in daylight. 
 
 When morning came we looked upon the most magnificent 
 body of water in all the world, the blue Mediterranean. Per- 
 fectly calm, like .a great sheet of glass, the water lay dead as 
 far as the eye could reach. Though in the month of February, 
 the sun was shining warm and pleasantly upon the hills of 
 Spain to our left, making the old wind mills, castles, cities 
 and forests glisten and sparkle like precious gems, prov- 
 ing that beautiful country's right to the title of "Sunny 
 Spain." 
 
 A couple of day's steaming brought us to Malta, off the 
 coast of Italy, .a beautiful little island lying rather low but 
 sufficiently rolling to be picturesque. Valetta, the principal 
 city, lies among cliffs on the northern side of the island and 
 is owned by the English, who have heavily fortified it and 
 make it a naval rendezvous. It is a very ancient looking city ; 
 houses all of stone, jammed in together, with streets from 
 three feet to three yards in width. The natives are like Ital- 
 ians, but generally form the coolie class. It is a city bustling 
 with commerce and a great fleet of ships of all nationalities 
 and descriptions line the harbor. It is a place of beautiful 
 canoes. All travel about the harbor in row-boats, and each 
 individual endeavors to own a more elaborate one than his 
 neighbor. Beggars were plentiful; cripples holding up a 
 maimed limb, blind pointing to their disgustingly pitiful coun- 
 
26 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 tenances, bum-boats, with fruit, merchandise and curios to 
 sell, swarmed about the vessel in great numbers. Small native 
 boys came ofT in boats in bathing dress, who, upon the tossing 
 of a coin into the water would dive and catch it almost every 
 time. Some of them passed entirely under the ship. 
 
 In Malta we found the weather quite warm and pleasant, 
 and the naval uniform of the day was shifted from blue to 
 white. 
 
 The land slopes from the beach to the center of the island, 
 so when two or three miles at sea one can see the farms, vine- 
 yards, castles and all the country for many miles about as 
 appears upon a picture or map. The old windmills turning 
 upon the hilltops remind one of biblical scenes. 
 
 The condition of ordinary individuals in Malta shows the 
 depths to which humanity may fall ; in fact most foreign coun- 
 tries are spoiled by the same conditions — dense population 
 and ravages of sin. An ordinary laboring man in America is 
 rich when compared with these people. 
 
 From Malta to Port Said, Egypt, is only five or six days 
 sail. Port Said is Egyptian all through ; in describing it one 
 would only repeat such descriptive matter as our Sunday 
 school leaves have given. We see the primitive boats, ancient 
 dress, almost the same as that worn by the Savior, and general 
 mysterious ways for which Egyptians are noted. They seem 
 in the question of manners and customs, not to have changed 
 since the days of Christ. 
 
 (Stopping at Port Said for a day we had some opportunity 
 of observing them. Of particular interest to me was their 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 27 
 
 place and manner of worship. Quite near the vessel on the 
 beach just outside the stone wall which surrounds the town, 
 was a fountain and near it a flat stone standing upright about 
 two feet wide and six feet in height, with another similar 
 stone lying on the ground in front of it. While I watched, a 
 number of natives came through the gate of the surrounding 
 city wall, took off their shoes, bathed their hands and feet in 
 the fountain, and then, stepping on the stone lying upon the 
 ground, would "salam" (place their hands above their heads in 
 the position of a diver and bend over several times) after 
 which they would kneel, and placing their hands on the ground 
 would repeat a long prayer, kissing the stone every ten or fif- 
 teen seconds. Some stayed but a few moments, others, who 
 seemed to have a great crime for which to be forgiven, stayed 
 even as long as half an hour, and one or two longer. I imagine 
 they must have been very bad. 
 
 Only part of a day was necessary to secure our turn in 
 passing through the Suez canal. Leaving in the afternoon, 
 the Solace proceeded slowly (four miles per hour) down the 
 canal. This is one of the greatest representations of the prog- 
 ress of man to my mind. For ninety-four miles they have dug 
 through the sand of the desert a channel three hundred feet 
 wide and about twenty-five feet deep, so that a large vessel 
 may steam through in safety, and at several places it is 
 broadened so that vessels may pass. The passage for the Solace 
 cost about five thousand dollars. As she had,' no searchlight 
 available, it was necessary for her to tie up at night. On, 
 both sides as far as the eye can reach there is nothing to be 
 
28 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 seen but sand, so fine that it constantly drifts like snow. I 
 can readily understand the stories of caravans buried in the 
 sand during those dreadful storms. It is a case of constant 
 fighting with dredges to keep the sand from filling the canal. 
 About every five miles the entire length of the Suez canal 
 is a station, and surely they are veritable Edens; cocoanuts, 
 bananas, figs, oranges, etc., growing in abundance over a 
 space of about five acres. How they manage to obtain this 
 luxuriant vegetation I do not know, for with these exceptions 
 I saw no other verdure along the canal. Several camel trains 
 were seen moving snakelike in the distance toward the 
 great Sahara desert. Also, an occasional Turk, fierce, wild and 
 hungry looking, presumably of the class which are renowned 
 for their terrible treatment of overpowered caravans. 
 
 Following along like an old comrade on the banks of the 
 Suez is .a little narrow gauge railway, several tiny trains 
 passing us during the passage. 
 
 The Solace made successfully the canal passage through 
 the Bitter Lakes and into the Red Sea at the city of Suez. 
 
 The country about the sea looks much the same as along 
 the canal, except that high barren mountains of solid rock and 
 sand skirt its shores. One sees many rocks and hills that 
 are pyramidal in shape, but I have no explanation to offer. 
 In passing through this sea of biblical fame, I could not help 
 but feel a certain amount of awe and interest, but there was 
 little to see except rocks and sand aside from two or three 
 cities in the dim distance. 
 

 i#MkM«C3K 
 
 »'~4' *»• re- 
 
 view on Flagship Brooklyn, Manila, iqoi. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 31 
 
 After the Red Sea came the Indian Ocean with nothing of 
 particular interest until arrival at Colombo, Ceylon, off the 
 coast of India. This is the garden spot of all, owned by 
 the English. Its products are precious stones, spices, tea, 
 coffee, tropical fruit, chocolate, cocoa, fine woods, mahogany, 
 etc. It is the country-seat of Mr. Lipton, the great tea man 
 and yacht racer. Most popular of all men there was the 
 great writer Rudyard Kipling. The native papers were full 
 of his affairs. This seemed to be the greatest place for "fakirs" 
 of all ; sharp, quick, subtle, but if to their interest .as dull and 
 ignorant in appearance as the occasion demanded. 
 
 The Solace took on nine hundred tons of coal here in about 
 six hours. An interesting feature at Colombo is the pearl div- 
 ing. We saw divers two or three miles out in the bay in small 
 boats, diving for the beauties of the deep. A native told me 
 he could stay under water two minutes withou|t a diving 
 apparatus. I saw them dive completely under the Solace. 
 A great many fine rugs, gems and fine wood-work may be 
 bought here. 
 
 After coaling the Solace proceeded on her voyage through 
 the straits of Malacca, sighted Singapore, but we saw noth- 
 ing of particular interest until March twenty-second, forty- 
 four days out from Hampton Roads, when w r e steamed into 
 the Bay of Manila and, .anchoring alongside the Flagship 
 Olympia, fired a salute to the flag of Admiral George Dewey. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 MANILA BATTLE OF MANILA BAY WAR DAILY ROUTINE OF A 
 
 WAR SHIP DEWEY IN MANILA BAY SURROUNDED BY 
 
 THE CHARRED, SUNKEN WRECKS OF THE 
 SHIPS OF THE NATION^ FOE. 
 
 A 
 
 ITER. THE long sea voyage, with all its attendant dis- 
 comforts and monotony, it w.as with a feeling of consider- 
 able relief and pleasure that we looked upon the magnifi- 
 cent scenery about Manila Bay. Steaming through the en- 
 trance, past Corregidor, where the luxuriant vegetation cov- 
 ering the mountain sides sent oil the sweetest perfume of 
 flowers and made one almost believe he was dreaming of Para- 
 dise, the Solade headed straight for Manila, the city of so 
 much interest to Americans at that time, which lay low upon 
 the water at the foot of the mountain range skirting the bay. 
 
 To the right across the bay lies the city of Cavite, the 
 early home of Aguinaldo, where the old Spanish naval ren- 
 dezvous was situated, and where the United States Navy now 
 makes its headquarters. 
 
 The Olympia, flagship of Admiral Dewey, w,as anchored 
 just outside the breakwater off Manila. England, Germany, 
 Holland and Japan were represented by men-of-war, and sev- 
 eral of Admiral Dewey's famous fleet were grouped about their 
 chief. Merchantmen from all parts of the world were an- 
 chored bv themselves to the left of the man-of-war anchorage. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 33 
 
 The great tropical sun stood high in the heavens, bringing 
 out vividly the coloring of the Philippine metropolis. The 
 first points to attract one's notice were the great dome of 
 the Manila observatory, famous throughout the world for the 
 work of the old Catholic priest in charge, the old walled city on 
 the right bank of the Pasig river, with its great palace, church 
 towers and other large public buildings. To the right of the 
 walled city, or Old Manila, stretches far to the southward a 
 line of low waving palms, which line the famous beach drive 
 Santa Lucia, which broadens further on into the Luneta, where 
 during Spanish reign, the people were accustomed to congre- 
 gate in the mornings to witness the execution of Filipinos, and 
 later, in the twilight, to hear the band play and vie with each 
 o'tiher in the style and magnificence of their dress and equi- 
 page. Beautiful Spanish and Filipino belles are to be seen 
 there, tastefully decked in cool, white, gauzy, low necked gowns, 
 bare headed and elaborately coiffured. Later, when T visited 
 the Luneta, fine bands from the army furnished entertainment 
 for thousands of people. Many Americans, principally 
 army and navy officers, mingled with the throng. 
 
 To the left of the Pasig river lies the new city of Manila, 
 called Binondo, which city is more popular among the Ameri- 
 cans than the old walled city. It is cleaner, more modern, has 
 a purer atmosphere, and many pretty little parks and drives 
 for recreation. While the walled city is our governmental 
 headquarters in Manila, the new city is of most commercial 
 importance, the principal street, the Escolta, being overbur- 
 dened with traffic and business. The business has lately be- 
 
34 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 come so heavy in this street that wagons, drays and other 
 freight vehicles are prohibited from its use. Saloons were also 
 made to move back on less important thoroughfares, to make 
 room for more worthy houses of business. 
 
 One of the first things to attract my attention was the great 
 need of improvement in the harbor everything appearing to have 
 been long on the decline; but recently, I understand, $5,000,- 
 000 has been appropriated for this work, which has already 
 been undertaken. 
 
 It is well, perhaps, to give here a brief outline of the circum- 
 stances attendant upon the occupation of Manila Bay by the 
 Americans, and a short description of the Battle of Manila Bay. 
 Believing it would seem more realistic, I have availed myself 
 of copies of the Bounding Billow, a newspaper printed on 
 board the Olympia, flagship of Admiral Dewey, the following 
 article being written by a participant in the battle: 
 
 "The United States fleet, consisting of the Olympia, Boston, 
 Raleigh, Baltimore, Concord, Petrel, McCulloch (dispatch 
 boat), and the transports Nans'han and Zafiro (merchant steam- 
 ers carrying coal for the fleet) left Mirs Kay, China, April 27, 
 1898, for Manila, Philippine Islands, to engage the Spanish 
 fleet stationed there. 
 
 "The ships made a very warlike and imposing picture as they 
 steamed out of the harbor in three columns, with all colors fly- 
 ing, bent on their dire and fateful errand. 
 
 "A looker on would have thought that the ships were merely 
 going on a pleasure trip, judging by the happy and careless 
 demeanor of the crews; but unless they have experienced it, 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 35 
 
 they would never guess the strain that the uncertainty of 
 whether we v-ere really going to war or not, had put on the 
 nerves of these men who had almost nothing to divert their 
 minds. Once the suspense was relieved, however, and & definite 
 move made, there was a complete change and they went about 
 their different tasks as blithesome and gay as if it were extend- 
 ed leave instead of grim war. 
 
 "The second day out the following intellectual abortion was 
 posted on the bulletin board. For arrogance and conceit it 
 certainly caps the climax; as a sample of ignorance and idiocy 
 it is unsurpassable : 
 
 " 'Proclamation issued by the Governor General of the Phil- 
 ippines : 
 
 " 'SPANIARDS : 
 
 " 'Between Spain and the United States of North America 
 hostilities have broken out. 
 
 " 'The moment has arrived to prove to the world that we 
 possess the spirit to conquer those who, pretending to be loyal 
 friends, take advantage of our misfortunes and abuse our hos- 
 pitality, using means which civilized nations count unworthy 
 and disreputable. 
 
 " 'The North American people, constituted of all the social 
 excrescences, have exhausted our patience and provoked war 
 with their perfidious machinations, with their acts of treach- 
 ery, and with their outrages .against the laws of nations and 
 international treaties. 
 
 " 'The struggle will be short and decisive. (It was.) The 
 God of Victories will give us one as complete as the righteous- 
 
36 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 ness and justice of our cause demands. Spain, which counts 
 upon the sympathies of all the nations, will emerge triumphant 
 from this new test, humiliating and blasting the adventurers 
 from those states that, without cohesion and without a history, 
 offered to humanity infamous traditions and the spectacle of 
 a congress in which appear united insolence and defamation, 
 cowardice and cynicism. 
 
 " 'A squadron manned by foreigners, possessing neither in- 
 struction nor discipline, is preparing to come to this archipel- 
 ago with the ruffianly intention of robbing us of all that means 
 life, honor and liberty. Pretending to be inspired by a cour- 
 age of which they are incapable, (tihe North American seamen 
 undertake as an enterprise capable of realization the substitu- 
 tion of Protestantism for the Catholic religion you profess, 
 to treat you as tribes refractory to civilization, to take posses- 
 sion of your riches as if they were unacquainted with the 
 rights of property, and to kidnap those persons whom they 
 consider useful to man their ships or to be exploited in agri- 
 cultural or industrial labor. 
 
 " 'Vain designs ! Ridiculous boastings ! 
 
 " 'Your indomitable bravery will suffice to frustrate the at- 
 tempt to carry them into realization. You will not consent 
 that they shall profane the faith that you profess, that impious 
 footsteps shall defile the temple of the true God, nor that un- 
 belief shall destroy the holy images which you adore. The 
 aggressors shall not profane the tombs of your fathers, they 
 shall not gratify their lustful passions at the cost of your 
 wives' and daughters' honor, nor appropriate the property 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 37 
 
 which your industry has accumulated to assure your livelihood. 
 'No, they shall not perpetrate any of those crimes inspired by 
 their wickedness and covetousness, because your valor and 
 patriotism will suffice to punish and abase the people that, 
 claiming to be civilized and cultivated, have exterminated the 
 natives of North America instead of bringing to them a life 
 of civilization and progress. 
 
 " 'Filipinos, prepare for the struggle, .and, united under the 
 glorious flag of Spain, which is ever covered with laurels, let 
 us fight with the conviction that victory will crown our efforts, 
 and to the summons of our enemies let us oppose with the 
 decision of the Christian and the Patriot the cry of "Viva Es- 
 pana." Your General, 
 
 " 'Basilio Atjgustiny Davjla.' 
 
 "This unjust and cowardly manifesto aroused the anger and 
 indignation of every man in the fleet, and many and deep were 
 the growls and threats. The learned general would have fared 
 badly had he been .at hand. The following speech was made by 
 the editor (being the literary organ and representative), in 
 answer to the foregoing proclamation: 
 
 " 'shipmates : 
 
 " 'You all, no doubt, have seen and read the rank and cow- 
 ardly attack made by the Spanish governor at Manila, on the 
 glorious flag .and country we serve. 
 
 " 'In it he questions our bravery, our birthrights, the hon- 
 esty of our government, and claims that we have no history! 
 What do the acts of our forebears represent? What was the 
 
38 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 glorious fight they made for independence in the war of '76 ? 
 When father .and son left their plows in the furrow and shoul- 
 dered their muskets for liberty, while wives, mothers and 
 sweethearts cheered them on to victory? What was the war 
 of 1812 ? The Mexican war % Even our Indian wars ? His- 
 tory all, and honorable, unstained history at that. 
 
 " 'What does he mean by saying we are a cowardly nation ? 
 'Old glory,' the dear old flag we serve and love, harbors no 
 cowards. Wherever seen it is recognized as the emblem of 
 freedom and honor, the standard of a nation of heroes, and 
 though he may prate and proclaim from now until hades 
 freezes over, he w T ill never make any but the most benighted 
 or bigoted believe that he is even sane. 
 
 " 'The sight of our flag is like a breath of pure, fresh air. 
 Its very colors are significant ; the red is emblematic of the 
 blood of heroes shed in the defense of our country; the white, 
 the purity of our aims and objects; and the star spangled blue, 
 the heaven we look to for guidance and strength. 
 
 " 'Then the Spanish Solomon goes on to inform the brave 
 'muchachos' under his sovereign command, that we are a 
 gang of 'cut throats,' Protestant heretics, w T ho will convert 
 them 'willy nilly' into a belief in our faith ; that we are ma- 
 rauders and thieves; that we are the scourgings of the earth's 
 gutters; social 'excrescences' (soft impeachment), and lastly, 
 that we had veritably driven them on to war, manufacturing 
 causes and insulting them because we knew, or rather thought, 
 they were weak. 
 
Reina Christina Sunk by Admiral Dewey in Manila Bay. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 41 
 
 " 'Shipmates, you all know what has brought on this war. 
 The barbarous inhumanities practiced by them in the island 
 of Cuba, right before our eyes; old men and women cruelly 
 tortured and slain, babes murdered on their mothers' breasts, 
 thousands of peaceful homes ruined and destroyed by these 
 Spanish fiends, the dear old stars and stripes trampled in 
 the mud of Spanish streets, and last, worst of .all, the tragedy 
 that has been too lately enacted to be forgotten, the destruc- 
 tion of the Maine. When brothers, friends and shipmates 
 were foully murdered through Spanish treachery and hatred, 
 an act that has won for Spain the aversion of all civilized na- 
 tions. These acts have brought on the war. Acts the wildest 
 savage would disdain, crimes that none but the lowest of Luci- 
 fer's emissaries would commit. It is to avenge these wrongs, 
 to give blessed liberty to an oppressed and down-trodden na- 
 tion, and to uphold the honor of our country, that we are going 
 to war with Spain. The governor says the Spanish flag is 
 covered with laurels ; perhaps, but they are laurels of infamy ! 
 
 ' 'Fellow patriots, when the hour arrives we will one and all 
 
 gladly lay down our lives for the dear old flag and beloved 
 
 country that has never had one stain to blemish the purity of 
 
 its escutcheon. 
 
 " 'And now, shipmates, when we get to Manila and meet the 
 
 Spanish murderers, let our battle cry be — 
 
 " 'Remember the Maine, 
 And down with Spain.' 
 
 "About two o'clock Saturday morning land was sighted, and 
 at daylight we were close on the coast of the enemy's country. 
 
42 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 "We kept about five or six miles from the coast line, keep- 
 ing a bright lookout for men-of-war or other craft of the 
 enemy. During the morning the Boston and Concord were sent 
 ahead to reconnoiter Subig Bay, as it was rumored that there 
 were two men-of-war there. Later we sighted a couple of fish- 
 ing schooners. The transport Zaftro was sent to board one. 
 They informed the boarding 'officer that there were only two 
 gunboats in Manila harbor. We knew they were lying, but 
 allowed them to proceed without further molestation. 
 
 "In the afternoon the lighthouse on Cape Bolinao was 
 sighted, and the Baltimore was sent ahead to reconnoiter. When 
 the fleet reached Subig Bay, the Baltimore was close in shore, 
 while the Boston and Concord were standing out toward us. 
 They had seen nothing of the enemy. The fleet then formed 
 in single column again and proceeded to Manila. 
 
 "It was Commodore Dewey's intention to pass the large fort 
 on Corregidor Island, twenty-six miles from Manila, about 
 midnight, if possible, without being seen. It was a bold move 
 and certainly deserved the success that crowned it, for there 
 was great danger of mines and torpedoes being placed in the 
 entrance, to say nothing of the guns in the forts. The harbor 
 had, in fact, been considered impregnable, and no doubt it was, 
 but not against Yankee grit and daring. At about midnight 
 we were starting up Manila Bay at a speed of four knots. We 
 were in hopes that the moon would go down, as her light was 
 rather annoying to our hopes of entering undiscovered, but 
 she seemed determined to stay out and see the fun. The guns 
 were all manned and kept trained on the forts, while eyes and 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 43 
 
 ears were strained watching and waiting for the shot that 
 would indicate our discovery. Corregidor fort was on our left, 
 while another battery somewhat further in was on our right 
 hand. 
 
 "On board the ships everything was quiet and nothing could 
 be heard but the officers giving the range in whispers and the 
 monotonous swash of the waters. The strain was terrible, and 
 not one of the men that manned the fleet will ever forget the 
 morning of the 'First of May.' 
 
 "Suddenly a flash of light was seen on the fort on Corregi- 
 dor. The men held their breath awaiting the report, but it 
 was only a rocket. Soon another goes up, a light on shore 
 flashes out signals, another on the other side, and we know we 
 are seen. It was afterwards rumored that two torpedoes had 
 been fired at us, but they did not have range enough to reach 
 us. 
 
 "At seventeen minutes past twelve the battery on our right 
 opened fire, the shell passing between the Olympia and Balti- 
 more. The Raleigh answered immediately. Another shot be- 
 tween the Concord and Boston, which w.as answered by the lat- 
 ter and the McCulloch. The McCulloch then turned back to 
 look after the transports. The flagship signaled to the McCul- 
 loch, "Are you all right ?" McCulloch answered, "O. K." It 
 was too dark for the Boston and Raleigh to locate the batter- 
 ies, so they ceased firing. None of the ships were struck. 
 
 "About three-twenty word was passed to 'lay by your guns 
 and take it easy.' Some of the men 'lay,' but 'taking it easy' 
 was out of the question. The decks were sprinkled with sand, 
 
44 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 and it would get into eyes, ears and nose, and scratch the skin 
 and occasionally some one would stroll over your recumbent 
 form as leisurely as if on parade, for all lights were out and 
 the decks were as dark as Erebus. At four o'clock coffee was 
 served out, and the stillness was broken by the clashing of 
 bowls and the merry laughter occasioned by collisions in the 
 dark. 'Everybody was as happy as though on an excursion, 
 jokes and witty stories were going the rounds, while every once 
 in a while some pensive nightingale would strike up the affect- 
 ing song 'Just Before the Battle, Mother,' until some one 
 spilled a bowl of hot 'boot-leg' over him and quieted him for a 
 few minutes. 
 
 "The men were .all in 'war clothes,' which consisted of al- 
 most nothing, and despite the joking and laughing, a deter- 
 mined gleam in their eyes showed that they meant business and 
 were there to 'do or die.' 
 
 "We were standing in toward the city to reconnoiter. Sev- 
 eral foreign sailing vessels were laying off Manila, but no men- 
 of-war could be seen. At twelve minutes to five we broke 'old 
 glory' at the mast heads and gaff and were saluted with a ten- 
 inch shell from a battery on the south bastion of the city. This 
 battery kept up a continual fire, but all shots fell short. We 
 did not return their fire, but headed in for the navy yard at 
 Cavite. 
 
 "The Spanish fleet was sighted at seven minutes to five. They 
 were lying in line from Sangley Point to Las Pinas across 
 Cavite and Canacao Bays. Their right flank was protected 
 by Cavite Peninsula, on which was mounted a very heavy bat- 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 45 
 
 tery. The left flank reached to the shoal part of the bay near 
 Las Pinas. 
 
 "The Spanish vessels were further protected by ,a huge boom 
 covered with chains, lighters filled with stone and water, cover- 
 ing the water lines. The Reina Christina was standing off the 
 left flank of the line, and had^ the Spanish Rear Admiral Mon- 
 tojo y Pasaron on board. 
 
 "At five thirty-five the ball was opened by the batteries on 
 Sangley Point, and a shell fell near the Olympia. The Ameri- 
 can fleet then advanced to the attack, flagship leading. Com- 
 modore Dewey personally directed the movements of the squad- 
 ron from the forward bridge. The captain directed the firing, 
 while the captains in command of the other vessels handled 
 their respective ships with a dexterity that was little short of 
 marvelous. 
 
 "At five thirty-eight the Reina Christina opened fire, fol- 
 lowed by the rest of the Spanish fleet. At five fifty-five the 
 American fleet began firing and a rapid fire was kept up by 
 the entire fleet during the engagement. A torpedo boat came 
 out about ten minutes past six and endeavored to place itself 
 in the track of the Olympia, but was driven ashore by the rapid 
 fire guns. Another boat came out and fired a torpedo, which 
 passed across the bow of the McCulloch, but did no damage. 
 Before the boat could escape it was struck by so many shots 
 that nothing was left of it but smoke. There were several tor- 
 pedo attacks mad,e on the other vessels, but luckily all were 
 effectually repulsed or blown up. This was mainly due to the 
 good marksmanship of the 'men-behind-the-guns.' 
 
46 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 "The American fleet steamed along the entire length of the 
 Spanish line at distances varying from five thousand to fifteen 
 hundred yards. 
 
 "The order was given to fire on the arsenal in Cavite, and a 
 well directed shot from an eight-inch gun sent it up in smoke. 
 This was at six forty-five, and our fleet had just made the first 
 round. We passed the line of ships ,and forts five times, three 
 times from the eastward and twice from the westward. On the 
 second round from the westward the Spanish admiral made a 
 desperate effort to get outside the boom, hut received a concen- 
 trated fire from the fleet. His ship caught fire and he trans- 
 ferred to the Isla de Cuba, first hauling down the colors on the 
 Beina Christina. The American ships then stopped firing at 
 the latter and kept a continual storm of steel raining on the 
 enemy's other ships and forts. 
 
 "The Don Antonio de Ulloa .also made a desperate but futile 
 attempt to get out. She went down with her colors flying at 
 her peak until the Petrel lowered a boat and cut them away. 
 The flag was presented to Commodore Dewey. In the mean- 
 time the Spanish admiral returned to the Beina Christina, the 
 Isla de Cuba being in a sinking condition. The Spaniards 
 fought very courageously, many of them going down firing 
 their guns until the last. Even amidst the horrors and cruel- 
 ties of war, one cannot help remarking and admiring the valor 
 of these heroes, Spaniards and enemies though they were. 
 
 "It was on this ground that the Boston stood like a fort for 
 ten minutes, firing as fast as she could load and aim, receiv- 
 ing ,a concentrated fire of all the Spanish ships. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 47 
 
 "The Olympia was twice hulled, but the shells did not pene- 
 trate sufficiently to do much damage. Although shot and shell 
 rained thick around her, she was struck but eight times, and, 
 marvelous though it may be, not a man was injured. The other 
 ships in the fleet thought the flagship was sinking, for all that 
 could be seen of her was a cloud of smoke and jets of flame 
 bursting through. 
 
 "One shot struck the Baltimore in the starboard waist just 
 abaft one of the six-inch guns. It passed through the ham- 
 mock netting, exploding a couple of three pounder shells, 
 wounding six men, then across the deck, striking the cylinder 
 of a gun, making it temporarily useless, then running around 
 the shield, it spent itself between two ventilators just forward 
 of the engineroom hatch. The shell is in possession of the 
 captain. The other vessels also, with the exception of the 
 Concord and Petrel, were struck several times. 
 
 "At about half past seven the Spanish fire slackened. The 
 Reina Christina was on fire and sinking, the Costilla was sunk, 
 and many others were afire and crippled. The fort on the mole 
 at Pasig river had ceased firing. 
 
 "At seven fifty-six we stood off shore for the middle of the 
 bay, while tlhe batteries in the forts on Sangley Point, along 
 the beach of Cavite and on the south bastion of [Manila, kept up 
 a continuous but ineffective fire. 
 
 "The crews had breakfast and a rest, which they certainly 
 needed, though they were every one anxious to continue and 
 'have it out.' 
 
48 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 "The batteries on Cavite fort kept up a continual fire, but 
 the range was too long .and they did no further damage except 
 to waste their ammunition. 
 
 "A conference of commanders was held on board the flagship, 
 and at ten fifteen the fleet stood in to silence the batteries. The 
 Baltimore led, the Olympia followed close behind, while the 
 Raleigh and Boston formed on the right flank. The Concord 
 and Pdtrel diverged to the left and maneuvered to get behind 
 the point on which the forts were situated. The two leading 
 vessels steamed in bows on and when about fifteen hundred 
 yards from the batteries opened fire with their large guns. As 
 the Boston and Raleigh came up, the flagship drew back while 
 the Baltimore remained stationary, delivering shot after shot 
 with such telling effect that in twenty minutes she silenced the 
 two most dangerous guns. 
 
 "The Boston and Raleigh steamed along the point deliv- 
 ering broadsides .as they went at the remaining fort on Sangley 
 Point. In the meantime the brave lijttle battleslhips, Petrel and 
 Concord, steamed in behind the point and attacked the forts 
 from the rear, utterly demolishing the Spaniards. The Con- 
 cord fired a few shots at the transport, Mindanao, which had 
 been run on the shoals off Las Pinas, and after being assured 
 that there was no life on board, set the vessel on fire. 
 
 "At twenty minutes past twelve a white flag went up near 
 Cavite and the bombardment ceased. The Petrel was sent up 
 the Ciran river to destroy the gunboats that had retreated 
 there. 
 
Who Wouldn't Sell Their Farm and go to Sea"? 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 51 
 
 "The Boston and Concord remained off the navy yard while 
 the rest of the fleet proceeded to the city to silence the forts 
 there, that had been so persistent in making itself heard. Just 
 as we got in range they ran up the 'white flag/ and when the 
 sun set that night its last rays rested like a benediction on 'old 
 glory' waving proudly from masthead and peak of Uncle Sam's 
 doughty arbitrators. 
 
 "Superior tactical knowledge and calm calculations, superior 
 gunnery and coolness, together with Yankee daring won the 
 day. 
 
 "The next day the Petrel went into the bay and brought out 
 a number of steam launches, two tugs and a couple of small 
 boats, which were distributed among the fleet. 
 
 "The surrender of all the vessels of war, forts and arsenals 
 in the bay was demanded and given. The surrender of the 
 city was delayed until the authorities at Washington were 
 heard from. 
 
 "Apothecaries, nurses and detachments of men were sent on 
 shore to assist in caring for and transporting the wounded to 
 the hospitals and burying the dead. 
 
 "The effect of our deadly fusilade was simply frightful, the 
 dead and wounded strewing the ground ,and buildings like 
 leaves in autumn. 
 
 "One of the wounded from the Reina Christina could speak 
 very good English, having been in America some time, but on 
 returning to his native land on a visit, had been impressed into 
 the service. He had both legs shot away. He stated that near- 
 ly all the vessels had double crews, many of them being volun- 
 
52 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 teers from among the citizens and that the number of deaths 
 would never be known. He also said that no sooner had a gun 
 been loaded than a storm of projectiles would sweep away the 
 gun's crew. At the time the Spanish admiral tried to get his 
 ship out he received such a terrible fire that the deck was one 
 mass of bursting shell. The captain, he said, was killed almost 
 at the first discharge." 
 
 On the morning of our arrival on board the Solace in Ma- 
 nila Bay, smoke appeared above the cocoanut palm forests and 
 the continual crack and boom of musketry and artillery rever- 
 berated across the bay, stirring one's breast with the deepest 
 feelings of patriotism and excitement. For the first time in 
 my life I heard the sounds of battle and felt its soul stirring 
 enthusiasm. 
 
 The brave "boys in brown" had driven the insurgents out 
 of Manila .and were pushing them further and further into 
 the province. 
 
 The fighting even appeared on the beach later in the day, 
 and we witnessed the sallies and maneuvers of both friend and 
 foe. Our friends had driven them to the beach when a signal 
 was made from the flagship Olympia, from Admiral Dewey, 
 to the monitor Monadnock to co-operate. She immediately got 
 under way, and steaming in near the beach, poured a continual 
 stream of fire into the trenches of the Filipinos, driving them 
 with considerable loss back into the arms of the boys in brown, 
 who by the increased firing seemed to know well how to receive 
 them. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 53 
 
 You can imagine with what impatience we stayed out there 
 on the ship .and watched all this ; old gunner's mates of the 
 navy, who had seen service before, paced the deck and grumbled 
 at their hard luck. 'But the jackies visited us from other ships 
 and assured us that there should be no worry, as no doubt 
 plenty of opportunity was before us. This proved true, and 
 before many months, we had all seen enough of it. 
 
 Late in the evening of the same day the Solace steamed 
 across the bay to Cavite, where she anchored among the cruisers 
 and supply ships of the navy. It is about seven miles across 
 from Manila, and as we came in sight of the partly sunken 
 charred hulls of the Spanish vessels of war, which opposed the 
 entrance of Admiral Dewey's fleet on that memorable first day 
 of May, 1898, one could almost imagine the scene as it must 
 have appeared originally. The old fort of Cavite, with numer- 
 ous gun-pouts covering the approach, and on Point Canicao, 
 running out toward Manila a small battery appeared, which 
 was said to have done considerable in the Spanish cause. 
 
 Admiral Dewey had the business of the fleet well under con- 
 trol and the regular cruising ships took their stations and per- 
 formed the work of co-operating with the army with great pre- 
 cision. There were in all about forty ships, including the cap- 
 tured small Spanish gunboats. The naval force was divided 
 into stations, in importance respectively of Cavite, Ilo Ilo, 
 Cebu, Zamboanga, Jolo, Lingayen Gulf and Subig Bay. It 
 was the custom to detail a large gunboat or cruiser as station 
 ship at these places, while her commanding officer acted as a 
 sub-commander, or senior officer present, carrying on the direc- 
 
54 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 tion of the smaller gunboats on his station and reporting to 
 the commander-in-chief affairs of particular importance. When 
 a vessel required coal, stores or repairs, she was ordered to 
 Cavite and another detailed in her place. The principal duties 
 of these vessels were cruising .against contraband of war, — 
 guns, ammunition and stores intended for the insurgents — and 
 shelling the beach when the army required such assistance. 
 Frequently it was necessary to land companies of sailors, 
 equipped for field service to assist the army. 
 
 During the voyage of the Solace there were a number of in- 
 frations of the navy discipline among sailors, whom the com- 
 mander found necessary to recommend to Admiral Dewey on ar- 
 rival, for general court-martial. As mentioned in previous chap- 
 ter, there were eiglht extra men of us in the clerical branch. Ow- 
 ing to the envious nature of certain influential parties on the ves- 
 sel, who had taken a violent personal dislike to me, it had become 
 tacitly understood that, of all the eight, I was the least capable 
 in my rating. Consequently, when the judge advocate of the 
 court, appointed to act for the Solace cases, asked for a man to 
 do the stenographic work, all the others were interviewed in 
 turn, each laughingly naming me as a more capable man, 
 as they did not wish to undertake it themselves, and felt cer- 
 tain I was incompetent. After passing down the line until 
 only I was left, the judge advocate, a noted marine officer, 
 finally ordered me before him to do the work, not deigning to 
 inquire whether I was competent or not. 
 
 Recognizing the emergency, I threw my whole heart and 
 mind into requisition, and after six or seven days' and nights' 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 55 
 
 laborious exertion, finished the last case satisfactorily. Though 
 I felt my own incompetency, the judge advocate recommended 
 me so highly to the commanding officer tthat the "pick" of eight 
 vacancies was given to me, that of yeoman to the commanding 
 officer of the Bennington. Two years later I wrote the papers 
 that placed the individual who had so maligned me behind 
 prison bars. I mention these facts not through love of self 
 praise, but to show young men that "To keep a stiff upper lip 
 and saw wood" means success in this world. 
 
 All through my naval career I was often asked if I was the 
 young man who wrote the court-martial records on the Solace, 
 and it followed and assisted me to the end. 
 
 In order that those who may not be familiar with the daily 
 working of a man-of-war, may hereafter perfectly understand 
 what is stated, I will give here a concise outline. 
 
 In the cabin sits her captain who is her brain, her authority 
 and her master. He must know her faults and virtues; he 
 must know all that transpires above, on and beneath her decks. 
 Outside his door continually paces to and fro his orderly (a 
 marine — soldier at sea), whose duties are those of a combined 
 messenger, sentry and guard. 
 
 The captain only is permitted to communicate officially with 
 higher authority direct, all others must do so through him. He 
 must sign all papers relating in any w.ay to ship's business, 
 which is facilitated by division into departments under the 
 heads, viz., of Equipment, Navigation, Steam Engineering, 
 Construction and Eepair, Ordnance, Supplies and Accounts, 
 and Medicine and Surgery. 
 
56 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 Each of these bureaus are presided over by a commissioned 
 officer, who, like the captain, is assisted by a retinue of clerks 
 sufficient to carry on the clerical duties of his department. Ma- 
 chinists, electricians, gunner's mates, firemen, coal passers, 
 seamen and deck hands each belong to their several departments, 
 and are held responsible by their chiefs. 
 
 In each department the enlisted men best qualified are se- 
 lected for the positions of (as they are termed) petty officers. 
 So it appears that when a man is guilty of any infraction of 
 the strict rules, he is called to account by the petty officer over 
 him, that petty officer is reprimanded or reported by his chief 
 petty officer, who in turn is called down by the officer of his 
 division, who is "jumped into" by the executive officer (next to 
 the captain), and he catches the "dickens" from the captain 
 himself. 
 
 Discipline is severe; superiors must be obeyed, and not 
 "talked back to." Now, a deck hand or coal passer is inferior 
 to almost everybody and must "look out for himself." If he 
 don't like his superior, he usually finds it good policy to go 
 away quietly alone, take a good look around to make sure uo 
 one is listening, then, if the coast is clear, swear quietly and 
 confidentially to himself. Instant obedience on board ship is 
 a virtue and necessary for all ; even the Gaptain must obey his 
 senior officer. 
 
 The "mast" is intended to be the place for righting all affairs 
 of dispute or blame; if a fellow is reported for a wrong, he 
 stands at the "mast" at nine o'clock with the rest of them. The 
 man who reported him is there. The captain comes out of his 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 57 
 
 cabin and hears both sides of the case, and "makes it hot for 
 you" according to the greatness of your sins. About the heav- 
 iest punishment is meted out for disobedience. 
 
 Every enlisted man, aside from chief petty officers and "spe- 
 cial duty men," belongs to a watch and stands his "four hours 
 on and four hours off" regular, day and night. Hfe must be on 
 time, in uniform, clean, sober, respectful, diligent in his duty, 
 not overstay his liberty ashore, not have dirty clothes in his 
 locker^ not steal; well, I must not enumerate further, but he 
 must, in all events, "look out for himself." 
 
 The mornings are mostly taken up with routine work, clean- 
 ing, etc., and the afternoons with drills, fire quarters, collision 
 drill, abandon ship, general quarters (battle), boat drill, land- 
 ing party and small arm drills. When the alarm sounds, there 
 well be for ten seconds a great scampering of bare feet about 
 the decks; .a simple command or two is all that is said, at the 
 end of ten or twenty seconds perfect quiet will reign, every 
 man at his post, whether gun, boat, magazine or bridge. Each 
 man will be armed with rifle, revolver or cutlass, standing at 
 his post ready to fire a great gun, pass up ammunition, or act 
 as sharp-shooter, or whatever his duties may be, at the word of 
 command. 
 
 Should the alarm be for fire, the effect will be the same, but 
 instead of arming themselves with weapons such as is men- 
 tioned above, this time it will be with hose and hand grenades. 
 
 After evening quarters, the bugle sounds "mess gear," and 
 folding tables are taken down from the decks overhead and 
 benches .appear as if by magic. In five minutes, where there 
 
58 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 had previously been no sign of mess gear, food, etc., you will 
 see tables prepared for supper, standing in rows on each side 
 of the deck, the jackies standing or sitting about waiting ex- 
 pectantly. Some times an order from the officer-of-the-deck 
 calls a division or two on deck, delaying the meal some, but 
 generally as .the snip's bell strikes out the hour, boatswains 
 mates pipe supper, and all hands sit down simultaneously. 
 
 When in port the general run of food in the navy is fairly 
 good, but to have it satisfactory it is customary for every man 
 to add three to five dollars a month to the regular navy ration. 
 As the messes usually have twenty to thirty members, this 
 makes quite a change to the better. 
 
 Then, of all times a sailor loves, comes the frolics in the 
 evening. After supper his day's work is done, unless he is on 
 watch, lights are lit (generally electricity) pipes are filled, the 
 smoking lamp lighted, and every Jackie settles himself as suits 
 best his idea of comfort. !No chairs are furnished him, but he 
 makes shift with a ditty box*, or, if need be, can be quite 
 comfortable on deck. Here a little group are playing cards, 
 across the deck another crowd is listening attentively to some old 
 tar's yarn, generally interesting. How, a couple of two hun- 
 dred pound coal passers have on the gloves and are doing 
 their best to win applause from their audience by "knock'n the 
 stufT'n out'n each other"; a few are scattered about writing 
 fond letters to loved ones at home to be mailed at the next port. 
 The deep melancholy of home sickness is often experienced, 
 and the absence of feminine society adds much to the "all 
 
 *Small box for comb, brush, looking glass, thread, etc. 
 
U. S. S. Bennington. 
 
 it ] 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 61 
 
 alone" feeling. At nine-thirty the bugler blows "taps," and all 
 must be in their hammocks. There are one or two on board, 
 maybe, who kneel down to say their prayers at night, but they 
 are young, and, perhaps, after a few more weeks' absence from 
 home they too will forget it. None are very bad, only careless. 
 All live much as a great family, little quarrels, "hurt feelings" 
 and "sassy" words sometimes, but usually in the best of humor 
 and ready to skylark. 
 
 In the morning at eight bells (eight o'clock) "old glory" will 
 be hoisted at the peak (taken down at sundown in the evening), 
 and at the first note of the accompanying bugle, every Jackie 
 jumps to his feet, faces the colors, stands at "attention" and, 
 as his very best sweetheart, the stars and stripes, reach the peak, 
 his right hand comes up to his cap with a snap in the military 
 salute. Under his breath he may mutter, "dollar," another 
 day's salary earned, but his heart is right, and he "jumps into 
 his work" determined to do it again. 
 
 The officers, Annapolis graduates, I will term them, rank re- 
 spectively Admiral, Eear Admiral, Captain, Commander, 
 Lieutenant-Commander, Lieutenant, Lieutenant Junior Grade 
 and Ensign. Those of the ranks of respectively Lieutenant- 
 Commander, Lieutenant, Lieutenant Junior Grade, and En- 
 sign, as well as naval cadets, under instruction, act as executive 
 officers, navigators, ordnance officers and perform line duty as 
 officer-of-the-deck, etc. In the special branch there are the pay 
 .and medical officers and chaplain. 
 
 They are expected after the course at Annapolis 1o be cul- 
 tured, refined and thorough gentlemen. Some of them are. 
 
62 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 However, it is unreasonable to assume that all the competent 
 men of the navy have graduated at Annapolis. Under the pres- 
 ent system of promotion in the navy of the United States, the 
 enlisted man has little or no show for advancement to commis- 
 sioned ranks. It appears to me, after three years' experience 
 and close observation of this matter, that if it were made pos- 
 sible for them to cross this great barrier, men of brains, com- 
 petent in every way, would soon be found in the ranks of the 
 navy to fill the best positions with equal satisfaction to the 
 government. Of course, the "Sampson" affair brought out one 
 step in the right direction, but it seems to me to be insufficient 
 — five warrant officers .are to be promoted to commissioned rank 
 each year. But when you consider that Annapolis graduates 
 hold the examinations and pass upon the merits of the cases, 
 and that they are not in favor of promotion from the ranks, 
 it is easy to guess how much chance the warrant officer has of 
 securing promotion. A few have been so promoted, but, in my 
 opinion, there will not be a great many such promotions. 
 
 The government is supposed to act for the best interests of 
 our people. In the hearts of the American people all men should 
 stand an equal chance. To carry out this noble principle, you 
 must open the way to advancement in the navy, and make com- 
 petition the life of trade, as in other affairs. Then, and not 
 till then, you will find naval men of brains satisfied to spend 
 years in the lowly positions in order to finally receive a suit- 
 able reward. If advancement is possible, boys in the navy will 
 spend their leisure hours in study rather than in revelry, idle- 
 ness and sin. Take away that non-American sentiment, that 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 63 
 
 one man serving Uncle Sam is any better or more deserving 
 of promotion, except for meritorious service, than another, 
 and all will be harmony in his service. The morals of the 
 navy's personnel will be improved. Teach young officers at 
 Annapolis to respect the "man behind the gun" as well as vice 
 versa. Let the "man behind the gun" feel that by application 
 and exertion he may hope to wear gold lace and be termed "a 
 gentleman," as well as Annapolis graduates, and you will find 
 a willing and worthy man. Let me say here, that this state- 
 ment must not be brought to bear down upon the enlisted man ; 
 he is already a "worthy man," doubly so because he serves faith- 
 fully with no hope of reward, which patriotism puts to shame 
 that of any navy man or men, let their policies be what it may, 
 who seeks honor, praise and promotion for his achievements. 
 
 As an example, I entered the navy in the lowest position, 
 that of "landsman," with pay of $16.00 per month and ration. 
 In eighteen months I had passed, without pull, through all the 
 intermediate grades to the rank of chief yeoman, with pay 
 of $60.00 per month — the highest position an enlisted man can 
 hold in the clerical branch of the navy at sea. It is but fair 
 to assume that, if I could pass through all these grades in 
 eighteen months, in years to come I might climb higher if, ow- 
 ing to the present system of promotion, it were not practically 
 impossible. Why should I, at twenty-five years of age, be will- 
 ing to come to a standstill professionally for the rest of my 
 life, with no hope to satisfy a higher ambition? 
 
 No; congressmen, men of influence, citizens of Iowa, hear 
 the prayer of an Iowa boy, who has proven himself by faith- 
 
64 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 ful service, and who has not forgotten his old "shipmates" on 
 the other side of the world — who are still struggling as he has 
 done! For the good of thousands of these brave men of our 
 navy, who, I believe, are not given a fair chance, you should 
 act without further delay. Use, at once, your influence, bring 
 the power of oratory and fame to bear for the cause, and se- 
 cure, without delay, a board of twelve good, firm, clear minded, 
 honest men to investigate the state of enlisted men of our navy. 
 If you find that my ardor has biased my opinion, and that 
 they are in no need of the searchlight of public opinion thrown 
 upon them, there can be no harm done ; but if you find the op- 
 posite, great good will follow. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE FILIPINO AT HOME NAVY'S CO-OPERATION WITH THE 
 
 ARMY PRESIDENT SCHURMAN, OF PEACE COMMISSION 
 
 TOUR OF ISLANDS AMERICAN SULTAN AND 
 
 HIS HAREM BEAUTIFUL SCENERY OF 
 
 THE ISLANDS CHASING- FILIBUS- 
 TERS VISIT OF PRINCE DE 
 
 BROGLIE OF FRANCE. 
 
 T 
 
 HE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS are inhabited by about 
 eighty different tribes of people, which may be roughly 
 grouped as Negritos and Pagan, Mohammedan, and civi- 
 lized Malays. The majority of these tribes are still in a state 
 of barbarism unhampered by the confines of civilization. As 
 the census returns under Spanish rule are notoriously unreli- 
 able, the exact population of the islands is unknown, and, ow- 
 ing to the unsettled and barbaric state of the archipelago, it 
 may be many years before a complete official estimate can be 
 obtained. There are probably eight or nine million people. 
 
 The Filipino is a small man, slightly darker than the Chi- 
 nese. They are not a very hardy people, and seem to be the 
 outcome of generations of physical neglect and disease pecu- 
 liar to the tropics. Many faces one sees about the islands 
 have a habitual pinched look of suffering. They are natur- 
 ally smart and quick to learn from either a good or a bad ex- 
 ample. To those who first see them they appear indolent and 
 
66 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVV 
 
 lazy, but this is largely due to climatic conditions and long 
 tyranny of the Spanish rule. Under the care of the United 
 States government and given the opportunity, they develop 
 wonderful abilities, and will often equal, if not surpass, the aver- 
 age American in a business proposition. They are generally 
 treacherous and, in many parts of the islands, it is .as much as 
 a man's life is worth to place it in their hands. They do not 
 like to work, but if driven to it, they show considerable ability, 
 especially in mechanics. They are inveterate smokers, using 
 principally cigarettes and gigantic home made cigars. 
 
 The women are virtuous and generally clean. They make 
 excellent wives and mothers, but are not unsurpassable as house- 
 keepers. When young they are often pretty ; but age rapidly ; 
 fifty years usually finding them hideous. They live on a very 
 meagre allowance of food, .and their homes generally contain 
 only the bare necessities of life. 
 
 The typical Filipino house, or "shack," as the "boys in 
 brown" term them, is usually of but one story, built of split 
 bamboo, and thatched with long, coarse, native grasses. Often, 
 they stand on piling five or six feet above the ground, a short 
 movable ladder being the only means of ingress. There are 
 usually two or three rooms in the home of a Filipino, but they 
 are shockingly bare with regard to fixtures. A bamboo cot, 
 perhaps, with a straw matting or two, .and mosquito bars, for 
 use at night, with a couple of pans and kettles and half a dozen 
 broken dishes or cocoanut shells, complete the list of furniture, 
 pottery and culinary outfits. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 67 
 
 They usually possess two complete suits of clothing, with 
 another fancy shirt, perhaps, for extra occasions. On Sundays 
 or holidays the people doff their working clothes and appear 
 in public decked in all the ridiculous finery imaginable. 
 
 The dress of the men consists of a pair of loose trousers of 
 white or light goods, with a gauzy shirt worn outside the pan- 
 taloons, flowing loosely about the figure, through the folds of 
 which can be seen a thin ordinary undershirt ; and a very an- 
 cient styled derby or straw hat. Shoes are not ordinarily pre- 
 ferred. 
 
 The dress of the women is much the same, excepting the 
 skirt, and they seldom wear head covering, unless, occasion- 
 ally a lace facinator. Instead of the waist worn by Ameri- 
 can ladies, they have a short gauzy vest or jacket, with short, 
 wide flowing sleeves, highly embroidered and loose. Shoes and 
 stockings are not worn by the middle class people except on gala 
 days. 
 
 The women have beautiful black hair, upon which they spend 
 considerable of their time. They can often be seen engaged 
 in an interesting occupation, in connection with their hair. 
 I could not state precisely what they were doing, as my ex- 
 perience in such matters is slight, but one fair "senorita" or 
 "senora" would sit patiently on a chair or other object, while 
 a female friend went carefully through her tumbled tresses, 
 occasionally stopping to catch some small object on her head; 
 then with the aforesaid small object held carefully between 
 thumb and fore-finger, with the little finger extended in a 
 pleasingly graceful manner, quickly strip the hair from the 
 
68 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 lady's head to its end, whereupon she would drop into the fun- 
 niest habit of pressing her thumb nails together! I never 
 knew just what they did this for, but it is possible that they 
 found something in the hair; perhaps it was alive. 
 
 The Filipinos have a very queer habit of squatting on the 
 ground instead of sitting on a chair as their white brothers do. 
 
 About the time of which I am writing, affairs in the islands 
 assumed a sinister appearance. Fighting was going on in the 
 Islands of Luzon, Cebu, Leyte, Mindoro, Panay, Palawan, 
 Mindianao and a few others of minor importance. The naval 
 station was divided into sub-centers of, respectively, Cavite, 
 Subig Bay, Lingayen Gulf, Ilo Ilo, Cebu, Zamboanga and Jolo, 
 from which centers or bases the co-operation of the navy with 
 the army was carried on under the general supervision of a 
 general in Manila and an admiral in Manila Bay. 
 
 The Bennington, as the rest of the cruisers, was kept con- 
 stantly employed, principally in southern waters, as station 
 ship of a sub-center. It was often necessary, however, for her 
 to take the field herself, as well as the several smaller boats 
 under direction of her commanding officer. The small captured 
 Spanish gun-boats, Calamianes, Mindoro, Villalobos, Basco, 
 Leyte, and others, together with the American gunboats, Prince- 
 ton, Marietta and others, were controlled a part of the time 
 from the Cebu station, and reports of daily cruising against 
 contraband of war and chasing filibusters were intensely inter- 
 esting. Some of them had engagements with "insurrectos" 
 nearly every day. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 71 
 
 About this time, as the United States forces were too busy 
 in other parts of the archipelago to give attention to the place, 
 one of the minor sultans of the Sulu Islands, a southern group 
 of the Philippines, moved with his rather poorly equipped 
 native army against the city of Zamboanga, principal city of 
 Isla de Negros, situated on the extreme southwestern end of 
 said island, with success; having driven the "insurrectos" out 
 of the city and taken charge himself in the name of the United 
 States, this Mohammedan chief immediately requested that 
 American soldiers be sent to his assistance. This was indeed 
 badly needed, as his force was entirely too small to hold out 
 long against the daily increasing numbers of the foe. 
 
 In compliance with the request of the sultan, two companies 
 of soldiers were sent to Zamboanga for co-operation with the 
 sultan's troops. 
 
 On the 22nd of ISTovember, 1899, the insurgents threatened 
 immediate outbreak and vowed to massacre all Americans and 
 Mohammedans on the island. The Bennington was ordered 
 to proceed at once to their relief. 
 
 On receipt of the above mentioned order, the Bennington 
 was lying off Cavite in the Bay of Manila, under orders to 
 proceed to Cebu as station-ship, immediately upon the arrival 
 of the commander-in-chief, who had gone with the flagship 
 Baltimore (Dewey with the Olympia having been replaced by 
 Eear Admiral J. C. Watson) to investigate the wreck of the 
 cruiser Charleston, to the north of Isla de Luzon, and bring 
 back her crew, who were stranded on a tiny island there. 
 
72 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 As the situation was extremely critical at Zamboanga, and 
 it was feared they would carry out their dire threat of massa- 
 cre, the Bennington proceeded post haste to (their relief. By 
 putting on forced draft and firing all four boilers, she managed 
 to make about fifteen knots per hour the entire distance. 
 
 Arriving at Zamboanga on the evening of the 24th, we found 
 the Castine anchored off the city, and all the trouble over — in- 
 surgents surrendered. 
 
 I give this incident here to portray to the minds of my 
 readers the state of constant excitement and emergency in 
 which our daily lives in the Philippines were spent. There is 
 always a great deal more preparation and expectation regard- 
 ing war than real battles. But the strain is, possibly, greater 
 in such times than if .actually engaged in warfare. 
 
 Accordingly, there being no need of her services at Zambo- 
 anga, the Bennington proceeded at dawn the next morning to 
 Cebu to take charge as station ship. Cebu is a town of prob- 
 ably 30,000 inhabitants, and is said to be second in commerce 
 in the archipelago. At the time we first arrived there were 
 soldiers of the Twenty-third United States Infantry, Sixth 
 United States Infantry and First Tennessee Volunteers ; in all 
 about five hundred men, scattered along the beach in small 
 squads for several miles, and in different parts of the city in old 
 Spanish forts and barracks. 
 
 Prior to the occupation by Americans, when the uprising 
 against the Spaniards took place, a large number of Filipino 
 leading citizens and office holders in Cebu took refuge in the 
 hills about eight miles from the beach back of the city. They 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 73 
 
 erected a number of fortifications in a large valley in the 
 mountains and placed them in such .a manner as to be inacces- 
 sible by the Spanish without suffering a deadly cross fire from 
 a considerable number of old fashioned cannon mounted there. 
 
 It is said that about two years before the occupation of the 
 island a Spanish regiment undertook to capture these strong- 
 holds and was almost completely annihilated; in revenge for 
 which the Spanish sent .a man-of-war there and shelled the 
 lower part of the town, doing great damage and killing a large 
 number of men, women and children. 
 
 At the present time this portion of the town is deserted, and 
 the piles of tumbled masonry, standing as the only monument 
 of the dead, saddens one; and, though they are only poor, half 
 civilized Filipinos, causes one to wish them better luck in fu- 
 ture with Spaniards or such tyrants. 
 
 The insurgent forces were still in the mountains when we 
 arrived and seemed quite confident of their position. 
 
 Shortly after our arrival I went ashore, and noticing several 
 deplorable looking beggars, with peculiar deformities and 
 most unsightly countenances, asked a soldier who and what they 
 were, receiving the alarming information that they were 
 "lepers," and that I must be very careful not to touch them or 
 permit them to come in contact with me during their entreaties 
 for money, as they make themselves very familiar and threaten 
 to touch one with their diseased fingers in order to frighjten 
 him into aiding them against his will. 
 
 At this time the city was under Filipino civil law, but later, 
 when United States soldiers took control, these lepers were 
 taken care of and isolated. 
 
74 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 A few days after our .arrival, four soldiers of the Twenty- 
 third Infantry were returning into town from an outpost, when 
 they were suddenly ambushed by a number of insurgents armed 
 with spears and bolos. Two of the soldiers were killed outright ; 
 one mortally wounded, but he kept pumping away at them with 
 his rifle until stopped by death, doing considerable damage, 
 however, before that event; the fourth, named Fisher, with a 
 spear through one forearm, the long handle dangling along be- 
 hind him, fought for his life and managed to get under a stone 
 bridge, where only one entrance was accessible, there he shot 
 every Filipino that came in sight. He did not know how many 
 he succeeded in killing, but told me he knew of three killed and 
 several more wounded. He said he did his best, and that 
 seemed sufficient. He wore a patch about two and a half inches 
 square on his head, and upon my inquiring the cause, said that 
 after he had been under cover some time the Filipinos on the 
 bridge over him called to him that the "insurrectos" had all 
 gone away, that they were "mucho bueno" Filipinos (very good 
 Filipinos) and that he might come out, so he peeped out around 
 the corner of the bridge, and "quick as a wink caught a stun- 
 ner" on the head from a "mucho bueno" Filipino with a bolo. 
 He did not look out again until help arrived, when he, with the 
 dead bodies of the others, were taken to Cebu. 
 
 Another soldier, said to be from near Moulton, Iowa, 'was 
 captured and held captive by the insurgents for several months, 
 until by chance ,an opportunity offered to "run for it," and he 
 reached safety in the American lines. His adventures during 
 this time were intensely interesting as they came to me. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 75 
 
 After the ambush the troops about Cebu made an advance 
 upon the stronghold of the enemy back of the city, but found 
 them so strongly fortified as to make an attack impracticable 
 without aid from the sea, and as the forts were beyond the range 
 of the Bennington & guns, we were of no use, except that we 
 sent men ashore to garrison the town in the absence of soldiers 
 who were fighting in the mountains, and a Gatling gun with 
 crew to assist if needed. 
 
 The soldiers succeeded in capturing two of the seventeen 
 strongholds of the enemy without the loss of a man. The in- 
 surgents had several pieces of ancient artillery with which they 
 kept blazing away all day to no apparent effect. Some of 
 these forts were in plain sigiht from the Bennington. 
 
 I can see now, in fancy, the gallant little force of boys in 
 brown,, with "old glory" waving proudly at their head, crawl- 
 ing, stumbling, creeping and charging up the mountainside 
 amid the crack of musketry and roar of the enemy's old smooth 
 bores; all in plain telescopic view of the ship. I watched the 
 brave little band climbing on and on up the gullies, over rocks, 
 through thick underbrush, kneeling and firing, clambering to- 
 ward the tiny round speck on the summit, high above us in the 
 very clouds, from which the belching smoke proved its identity 
 as a fort. 
 
 I could also see to their left, amid the scrubby trees, and to 
 their right, across the ravine, ambushed insurgents waiting,, 
 watching, crawling nearer and nearer, to shoot from cover, as 
 is their custom, these brave American boys. It makes my 
 blood boil even now, as it then did every man aboard the ship, 
 
76 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 powerless to aid, within plain sight, we must see these dusky 
 little fiends crawling, snake-like, to ambush our friends. 
 
 Bringing my glass back to bear upon our boys, I sould see 
 them near the summit, charging with that final dash that either 
 kills or captures, straight at )tlhe muzzles of the enemy's guns ; 
 up over the ramparts into the forts, as with a last blaze of the 
 cannon the "insurrectos" turned and fled for their lives, while 
 here and there an "humbre" feels the cold chill of a bayonet, 
 or the hot, blinding thud of one of Uncle Sam's steel capped 
 bullets, while, with a great shout of victory, they raised "old 
 glory" high aloft above the summit of the mountain ; to wave 
 the signal "all's well that ends well" to us on the sea. 
 
 On June 10, 1900, President Schurman of the pe,ac,3 commis- 
 sion came on board the Bennington, and her commanding offi- 
 cer, Commander Edward D. Taussig, United States Kavy, re- 
 ceived orders to proceed to such ports as Mr. Schurman might 
 designate. 
 
 Ho Ho being the first point of interest, we headed at once in 
 that direction. It was the orders of the commander-in-chief 
 that as we were on a peaceful mission, we were not to fire on 
 insurgents unless absolutely necessary to protect life and 
 property of Americans. ! 
 
 Only stopping a short time at Ho Ho, we got up anchor and 
 steamed around the coast of Isla de Panay at the request of 
 Mr. Schurman, stopping a few hours off the native villages of 
 Pandan and Bugason. The friendly spirit evinced at Pandan 
 six weeks before toward the Bennington was not proven on this 
 visit, as the natives, upon the invitation of the captain to come 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 77 
 
 on board, called to them on the beach by megaphone, hid them- 
 selves in the bushes on shore, whereas on the previous visit 
 they had come off to the ship with presents, and upon the search- 
 light being explained them, expressed themselves as very much 
 pleased, and were friendly in every way, both giving and re- 
 ceiving presents. The feeling of the natives may have been in- 
 fluenced by the captain's ordering a small steamer anchored 
 there, whose papers were not properly made out, back to Ho 
 Ho. 
 
 From a vessel lying at anchor in the harbor of Ho Ho, can 
 be seen early in the morning as the tropical sky first blushes 
 rosy red in the east on the appearance of the sun, a great vol- 
 cano, towering. 8,200 feet in the air, from the crest of which 
 thin white vapor is curling lazily upward to the fleecy clouds 
 hovering over her. It is Mt. Malaspina, and a beautiful 
 sight, with the red sun touching up the coloring of surrounding 
 verdure, clothing the hills and valleys, making a perfect set- 
 ting for this beautiful picture. 
 
 Steaming around the east coast of the Island of Panay, we 
 crossed the intervening channel and dropped anchor on the 
 west coast of Isla de Negros, about three miles off from Baco- 
 lod, a very pretty half Spanish and half Filipino village. 
 
 Though I have seen considerable of the archipelago, I con- 
 sider this one of the prettiest villages that has come under 
 my observation. The Island of .Negros, situated to the south- 
 ward of Luzon, is one of the principal islands of the group; 
 Bacolod is its second best town, having a population of about 
 .5,000 inhabitants. 
 
78 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 At the time hostilities against the Americans were com- 
 menced by Aguinaldo and his allies, these people adopted a 
 form of government copied after our own, requesting that a 
 regiment of United States soldiers be sent there to .assure them 
 protection. At the time of our visit the First California Vol- 
 unteers, under command of Brigadier General Smith, was sta- 
 tioned on the island, two companies at Bacolod, and others at 
 various places about the island, trying to round up a company 
 of bandits who were terrorizing the natives, among them Silai, 
 Binalbagan and Dumaguete. 
 
 Upon going ashore, I was astounded ,at the beauty of the 
 suburbs of Bacolod. First to attract my attention was the in- 
 evitable Catholic church, large enough to house the entire popu- 
 lation, while the people, I was informed, had been kept in ab- 
 ject poverty to maintain it, 
 
 I could not state correctly the dimensions of this great 
 cathedral, but may state it as my belief that there are few 
 churches in the United States to equal it in size. These church- 
 es are familiar landmarks every few miles along nearly all the 
 coasts which the Bennington skirted that year, and their size, 
 apparent grandeur and magnificence, when compared with the 
 miserable, tumbled down shacks of the people, are the surest 
 proofs and should be sufficient to prove to the most ignorant 
 mind that Catholicism in the Philippines has not made the' bur- 
 dens of the people lighter. 
 
 The altar occupies the entire rear of the interior. In the 
 center of the .altar against the wall stood a life sized figure of 
 the Christ; on his left another of the Virgin Mary. Several 
 

 View on Flagship Brooklyn, Manila, iqoi 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 81 
 
 smaller statuettes of apostles were placed in different parts of 
 the church. A very large and beautiful lamp is kept burning 
 all the time. The speaking pulpit, in order that the entire con- 
 gregation may hear, is a small booth placed in the center of the 
 building, high above the heads of the audience, while a very 
 fair pipe organ is placed in the front gallery. The organ was 
 of German make and, I was informed by the old Filipino sex- 
 ton, cost six thousand dollars. 
 
 The market where all varieties of fruit, vegetables, etc., are 
 sold, where gamblers congregate and people come to gossip, 
 interested me considerably. They are very sharp traders and 
 very exacting. 
 
 After visiting the market I went with a soldier for a stroll 
 through a cocoanut grove, which was a great treat to me. Occa- 
 sionally I would catch a glimpse of a cunning little monkey 
 hiding among the green leaves and making faces at us. The 
 natives have steps cut in the trees, and upon requesting them 
 to get me a green cocoanut, one little fellow, who wore nothing 
 but obedience, climbed up a forty-foot tree in a jiffy and 
 brought down several green nuts. Cutting off the outside hull, 
 he made a small hole in the shell and gave me a most delicious 
 drink of the milk ; after I had finished the liquid part of it, he 
 broke open the shell, and the nut being young, I could have 
 eaten the meat with a spoon had I been so fortunate as to pos- 
 sess one, but I did fairly well with his bolo. 
 
 I also attended the cock fights, which did not prove very 
 desirable entertainment to me. In fact, when I found that 
 the chickens were each armed with a steel knife about three 
 
82 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 inches long and sharp as a razor, and that each time they fight 
 one, or more often both, are killed, I w.as disgusted. When a 
 game-cock is mortally wounded, it is often the habit (said to 
 bring better luck next time) to cut off his legs while he still 
 lives. In my opinion the disgraceful practice of cock-fighting 
 should be discontinued in the Philippines ; and while I am on 
 the subject, I may as well include certain parts of the United 
 States. 
 
 From Bacolod we proceeded with Mr. Schurman to Binal- 
 bagan. Nothing of particular interest occurring, the Benning- 
 ton was to sail on the morning of the twentieth, but was de- 
 layed by finding the army tug Hercules aground in the bayou 
 of the river. Our steam launch and gig, after landing a num- 
 ber of the Hercules' sick soldiers and crew, finally hauled her 
 off on the same morning, narrowly evading death by drowning 
 of the entire party. 
 
 However, the Bennington got under way about eight o'clock 
 that morning and steaming around the southwest coast of Isla 
 de JSTegros arrived at Dumaguete on the evening of the same 
 day, where Filipino officials came on board and invited the 
 president of the peace commission, his secretary and Captain 
 Taussig ashore to dinner. 
 
 We found two companies of the First California Volun- 
 teers stationed there, the town orderly and the people peaceful, 
 and apparently glad to be under the United States govern- 
 ment. 
 
 The president of this province lives some distance out of 
 town, so they were entertained at the house of a wealthy widow. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 83 
 
 Her son-in-low, a Spaniard, was the abundantly by nature mas- 
 ter of ceremonies, also at the ball following the dinner, which 
 took place .at the government house. 
 
 The meals, like all others served to them on the island, were 
 a repetition of courses upon courses, which they were forced 
 to eat, at least to taste. The wine was poor, but the hostess 
 was evidently doing much to honor them and appeared anxious 
 that they be highly entertained. 
 
 At the ball in the evening there were a larger number of 
 "mestizos" than had been present at entertainments in any of 
 their towns. They were, I was told, mainly from the neighbor- 
 ing pueblo of Bois, and had temporarily taken refuge in Du- 
 maguete. They were rather better looking than ithe other peo- 
 ple we had met, but did not show any greater intelligence. 
 We left Dumaguete at midnight and arrived at Cebu about 
 eight o'clock in the morning of the twenty-second. 
 
 Mr. Schurman and Captain Taussig called upon the govern- 
 or, Colonel Hamer of the Idaho Volunteers, and upon his offi- 
 cers, Colonel Bayless of the Tennessee Volunteers and Captain 
 Pennington and other officers of the Twenty-third Infantry. 
 Captain Bayless drove them about the city, but they had not 
 sufficient time to visit the churches or convent, the only places 
 of special interest. They had a very pleasant visit with the 
 governor, who was located in a very pretty, comfortable and 
 well furnished house for that part of the world. 
 
 At that time no effort had been m.ade by the army to occupy 
 the Island of Cebu, and therefore the "insurrectos," or provin- 
 cial government, remained undisturbed. The mosit of the in- 
 
84 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 habitants were willing, it was thought, to come under the Uni- 
 ted States government and protection. 
 
 We left Cebu on the morning of the twenty-fourth, having 
 fortunately received one mail from home. At eight o'clock on 
 the morning of the twenty-fifth, we anchored in Calderia Bay, 
 a few miles from Zamboanga, where we found the collier Iris 
 coaling the Castine; after delivering stores and mail for these 
 vessels, we proceeded to Jolo (pronounced Holo) on an island 
 of the same name belonging to the Sulu group, governed by the 
 only United States sultan. 
 
 We landed and Mr. Schurman and the captain visited Cap- 
 tain Pratt, the commanding officer, and other officers of the 
 Twenty-third Infantry stationed there. 
 
 Jolo is the main island of the group to the southward of the 
 Philippines, and is a part of our possessions in these waters, 
 which was occupied by the Spaniards in 1875 and 1876, and 
 the authority of Spain over this group was acknowledged by 
 England .and Germany by the treaty of 1885. The Spaniards' 
 possessions, in fact, consisted of this latter town of Jolo, a 
 walled enclosure, and small stations on three other islands of 
 the group. When Jolo was first occupied, it was a fever in- 
 fested place and only used ,as a convict station. 
 
 The energetic commander, or governor, who had been sent 
 away from Spain probably to die on account of his republican 
 sentiments, made the little place a model of neatness. He laid 
 sewers, brought in water, regulated the sanitary arrangements 
 and kept the town so clean that the inhabitants expected he 
 would punish the trees for the leaves falling upon the streets. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 85 
 
 The inhabitants could not venture outside the walls for any 
 distance for lack of roads, and never unarmed. The natives 
 on the outside were required, before entering the town, to leave 
 their arms at the guard station just outside the wall. In fact, 
 except for marketing, the natives of the country were never 
 allowed inside .and the Spaniards never ventured far into the 
 interior. All the labor of the town was done by convicts. 
 
 The arrival of our troops had worked a change ; there were 
 no convicts. The natives were employed in cleaning the 
 streets and were not allowed to carry their arms about the town. 
 The soldiers visited the neighboring villages outside the walls 
 with impunity, and officers, in couples, had dared over consid^ 
 erable of the island. 
 
 The cave where Captain Kidd, of piratical fame, is said to 
 have buried a great part of the treasure secured during his 
 oriental cruise, is situated near this place. 
 
 A German named Schuck, with his father, lived on the island 
 many years, he had married a native Sulu, a girl that had been 
 brought up in Mr. Schuck's family, and has a large plantation 
 in the vicinity of Jolo. With him we rode on horseback some 
 four miles into the interior to the top of a hill, from which we 
 had a view of the greater part of the island. I was surprised 
 to see how beautiful the country was. Between the hills, the 
 valleys were rolling and were cultivated to a high degree. 
 Clumps of trees dot the surface of the ground, giving it the 
 appearance of a park. It only wanted good roads to have been 
 unalloyed pleasure. As it was, our little ponies climbing the 
 muddy paths would sink a foot or more in the mud holes, and 
 
86 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 one stream that we were obliged to cross, the ford was one only 
 in name, and the water rose nearly to the top of our saddles 
 as we rode across. 
 
 Mr. Schuck had about seventy-five acres of coffee trees, a 
 large area in corn and rice, and was in fact the most important 
 planter and tiller in the island. What trade was not in his 
 hands seemed to be in the hands of the Chinese, of whom there 
 were about seven hundred in the island. 
 
 Mr. Schurman and Captain Taussig sent word to the sultan 
 that they would be around on the other side of the island in 
 the afternoon; accordingly upon returning from the above ex- 
 pedition, we got under way and steamed around to Maimbun 
 Bay, about twenty-seven miles by water and twelve by land. 
 We arrived at four o'clock. 
 
 The houses, built on piling over the water, were dirty look- 
 ing and the people were little better in appearance. Jumping 
 ashore from the small boats, Mr. Schurman and the captain 
 were escorted a short distance to a house built on higher ground 
 and into a small room, where they were invited to occupy 
 chairs while the sultan was being prepared to receive them. 
 They stayed there some time, when they were introduced to the 
 father of the v sultan with whom they conversed for a few mo- 
 ments, and then were told that the sultan was ready to receive 
 them. So they followed the crowd of attendants along a nar- 
 row and very rough road, erected up over a swamp, built of 
 mud and blocks of coral. 
 
 The sultan's house was also rough but a little more porten- 
 tious than the others and aping in form the houses of the Fili- 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 87 
 
 pinos. They were ushered upstairs to what might be called a 
 veranda ; that was furnished with a cheap mahogany extension 
 table, on one side of which was a sofa and the rest of the table 
 was surrounded by chairs. The table was covered with a table- 
 cloth, not immaculate, some silver and glass ornaments, 
 brought, probably, from Singapore, two pint bottles of claret 
 and some small liquor glasses. Later on Mr. Schurman and 
 some officers, who were of the party, were given each a glass 
 of chocolate, and a dozen or more different kinds of cakes and 
 confectionery, none of which they tried, were placed upon 
 the table. 
 
 By means of an interpreter, Mr. Schurman explained to the 
 sultan the object of ihis visit, and the general impression was 
 that they were welcome, and that the sultan would make no 
 trouble about acknowledging our sovereignty. They were not 
 permitted to enter that part of the sultan's house where his 
 harem is situated. 
 
 It was dark when they finally returned to the ship, but we 
 immediately got under way for Sandakan, Borneo, where we 
 arrived on the afternoon of the twenty-seventh. 
 
 I have mentioned only the principal points visited by Mr. 
 Schurman, during his inspection, at most of which places he 
 was dined and feted by the Filipino officials, meeting every- 
 where the elite among the natives. 
 
 It is not my intention to give a complete account of Mr. 
 Schurman's tour, nor is it possible from the data in my pos- 
 session, so will close the subject by stating that we stayed only 
 a few hours at Sandakan, when we returned to Manila, after 
 
88 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 a two weeks' cruise of about two thousand miles, via Palawan 
 Island, the extreme western island of the Philippine group, 
 where we found the Filipino flag waving defiantly in the har- 
 bor. 
 
 The insurgent general came off to the vessel and expostu- 
 lated wildly with the captain for not saluting his' flag on en- 
 tering port, but after a few moments talk with Mr. Schurman 
 he returned peacefully ashore with his staff, after ordering 
 us out of the port. 
 
 Owing to orders received from the commander-in-chief on 
 our departure from Manila, and on account of our peaceful 
 mission, we could not but retire as gracefully as possible, but 
 a vessel was dispatched from Manila immediately upon our 
 arrival, the Filipino flag was shot down and the Filipino gen^ 
 eral pacified in Uncle Sam's good old fashioned way — with 
 shot and shell. 
 
 Another time the Bennington steamed up through San Bar- 
 nardino Straits and dropped anchor off Nabug Bay, off Su- 
 gat, on the east coast of Luzon, remained at anchor for the 
 night and the next morning proceeded to Legaspi, one of the 
 most beautiful harbors I have yet seen (here I first discov- 
 ered the Pacific, but did not climb a tree in my delight a* 
 did Balboa). The harbor appears to be bottle shaped, and as 
 we steamed through its narrow entrance, to our right seeming 
 to be almost over us, towered the great pyramidical volcano 
 Albay, from the truncated cone of which we could see (thin 
 coils of smoke curling upward many hundreds of feet above the 
 clouds, and down the sides of this beautiful mountain, we 
 
View on Flagship Brooklyn, Manila, 1901. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 91 
 
 could see the dried rivers of lava, which in 1741, in moulten 
 mass, flowed down upon the city of Albay, at its base, bury- 
 ing that city completely. Later, in 1897, there was an over- 
 flow, but not so heavy as the former. When driving along the 
 base of this magnificent pyramid, the peak of which is 8,274 
 feet above the sea, a noise similar to rolling thunder, can be 
 heard as though it were only a thin crust. This is said to be 
 the most beautiful volcano in the world. 
 
 Just opposite the entrance is the town of Legaspi, and to 
 the left across the bay from Mt. Albay, a large bluff from the 
 summit of which was flying a Filipino flag. 
 
 Our guns were quietly manned and, after four trial shots, 
 with the after port six pounder boatswain's mate Hansen fixed 
 his sights at 2,200 yards, and aiming at the staff bearing the 
 insurgent banner, fired. We could see the small six pound 
 projectile describe a most graceful arch, and, while we held 
 our breath, the flag of the insurgents toppled to the ground. 
 Cheer after cheer rang out for the proud Jackie who fired 
 one of the most clever shots ever made in the United States 
 Navy. 
 
 Immediately we could see the Filipinos digging away try- 
 ing to plant another staff, and as it appeared that they were 
 endeavoring to bring a heavy gun to bear upon us, the six- 
 inch guns were ordered to begin firing. Like a terrible thun- 
 der sitorm the great guns thundered and boomed, as shrapnel and 
 solid shot struck and exploded about the gallant little brown 
 fellows trying to hoist their colors. Time after time they 
 were shot down, but as often hoisted, while the brave little 
 
92 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 Filipino in command walked the parapet waiving his blade in 
 defiance and taunted our gunners with their inability to hit 
 him. His escape was truly miraculous, as shells were dropped 
 apparently all about him and exploding continually for thirty 
 minutes. 
 
 The Bennington, feeling the uselessness of continuing the 
 bombardment farther, ceased firing and steamed out of the bay 
 leaving the insurgent colors flying, and the gallant little officer 
 still walking back and forth waving his sword. 
 
 Just outside the harbor we discovered a schooner rigged 
 "parao" flying the insurgent flag, and fired a few shots across 
 her bow. She did not heave to but instead made every effort 
 to escape to the beach, so, though the captain deeply regretted 
 the necessity of doing so, it was necessary according to his or- 
 ders to fire at her, which was done, and with a shell through 
 her hull, which burst just after passing through, she hove 
 to and lowered her colors and sails. Her crew was brought 
 on board and one poor fellow, though able to walk aboard had 
 a piece of a shell about the size of a man's hand just over the 
 heart in his breast. He was afraid to come on board, believ- 
 ing torture was to be his portion ; but he was kindly disillu- 
 sioned, and treated by the ship's doctor until a few days later 
 he died of his wounds and was buried at sea. 
 
 The other prisoners were kept under guard all night and 
 given food. Early the next morning three young women were 
 found hid away in the parao (a kind of sailboat with out-rig- 
 gers) dressed in male attire. One of them was quite pretty, 
 and they were very shy when brought out of their hiding; 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 93 
 
 they kept out of sight as much as possible, and seemed very, 
 very happy, when they, with the rest of the prisoners, were 
 sent ashore and liberated. 
 
 The parao with about a thousand dollars' worth of hemp 
 was burned. During my service aboard the Bennington many 
 such events took place, but it is not deemed necessary or of in- 
 terest to relate them all. 
 
 While at Cebu a few days after this occurrence, we were 
 honored by a visit from the French Prince, De Broglie, who 
 was touring the world in the English yacht Victoria, which 
 only stayed in port a day and night. Visits were exchanged 
 between the captain and the prince, who seemed a very pleas- 
 ant white haired old gentleman. 
 
 A short time previous to the cruise of Mr. Schurman re- 
 lated above, the Bennington, while steaming full speed after 
 a "filibuster" on the coast of Isla de Panay, suddenly struck 
 an uncharted coral reef in Sapian Bay. She was steaming 
 ten to twelve knots when she struck, running high upon the 
 reef. The harsh grating sound of the rocks shearing rivet- 
 heads as she slid upon the bank brought cold chills to one and 
 reminded me that our lives are not assured for all time. 
 
 After throwing overboard considerable coal, lowering all 
 boats and heavy movable appliances, she finally backed off 
 the next day, when, with collision mats secured, she headed 
 for Manila, where upon arrival she was ordered by the com- 
 mander-in-chief to Hong Kong, coast of China, for repairs 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 A TRIP TO NORTHERN WATERS, CHINA AND JAPAN" THE JAP- 
 ANESE DRIVING A MAN INSTEAD OF A HORSE 
 
 PRETTY JAPANESE GIRLS. 
 
 AS THE Bennington had clearly demonstrated her inability 
 to steam overland, the commander-in-chief ordered her to 
 Hong Kong for repairs. All hands were rather glad of 
 the accident, as it gave us an opportunity to get out tempo- 
 rarily from the heat of the tropics and alt the same time get a 
 glimpse of that famous Chinese city. 
 
 In the afternoon of May 10, 1899, the Bennington dropped 
 anchor in the harbor of Hong Kong and the next day the 
 crew were given shore liberty for twenty-four hours. 
 
 The steam launch landed us at the wharf opposite the cus- 
 tom house about dusk in the evening, and immediately upon 
 stepping ashore we were surrounded by a mob of jin-rick-a- 
 shaw men, clamoring in their outlandish broken English and 
 Chinese lingo for our patronage. 
 
 The "rickshaw," as it is termed, is a small two-wheeled 
 affair resembling the baby carriage, drawn by half -naked Chi- 
 nese, in shafts, who are as a class, the greatest lot of rogues 
 and sharpers imaginable. 
 
 Selecting a nice looking "rickshaw," with a good strong, 
 healthy appearing man, I climbed in and asked him "can do 
 down town ?" Though he appeared very anxious to please me, 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 95 
 
 a blank expression covered his ugly yellow face, his almond 
 eyes twinkled encouragingly while he articulated "me no sabe." 
 I replied with firmness, "makie shove off, down town." This 
 seemed to be perfectly plain to him, and he smiled, nodded his 
 head and started off down the street at a round trot. The 
 streets looked much the same, and as the shops were being 
 lighted, I enjoyed the ride, scenery, etc., except the terrible 
 Chinese odor. On and on we flew, darting around corners, 
 down narrow streets, up little hills, turning about so much 
 that I was completely bewildered. 
 
 Bye and bye it began to dawn upon me that we were pass- 
 ing occasionally certain buildings which looked familiar. I 
 wondered if there could possibly be any truth in the belief 
 of some people, that we have lived on earth before this life 
 in a different sphere and country, in some other specie. 
 
 It was enough to make me believe this was true. A per- 
 fect stranger in Hong Kong, I was frequently passing shops 
 and buildings that appeared dimly familiar. The city seemed 
 to be a very large one, for I had driven rapidly nearly an 
 hour. 
 
 My "rickshaw" man was beginning to perspire freely and 
 inclined to lag a little. It seemed also that the "sike" police- 
 men resembled each other closely. After I had counted fifteen 
 who appeared to look exactly alike I decided ito ask the next one, 
 if he spoke English, where down town was. 
 
 Conjuring up all the Chinese lingo I knew I approached 
 him with, "Say, cop, you makie sabe down town ?" Very cour- 
 teously, he replied, "Certainly, sir, but if you wish to go 
 
96 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 down town you must stop riding around this block, and turn 
 to your right at the next corner." The Chinaman spoke a 
 few words in Chinese to the policeman who immediately pro- 
 ceeded to beat him severely with his cane, and ordering me 
 to secure another "rickshaw" drove him away without permit- 
 ting me to pay him. 
 
 Hong Kong is a distinct island of itself and is owned by 
 the English; the proper name of the English part of the city 
 is Victoria, in honor of the late queen, whose life-sized statue 
 is placed in front of the city hall near the anchorage. . 
 
 The city is built on the site of a small mountain so that 
 almost the entire city can be seen at once from a ship enter- 
 ing port. There are many modern buildings, and England 
 has thousands of soldiers and sailors stationed there in fine 
 barracks. The greater part of the business of Hong Kong 
 is carried on by Chinese, and some of their stores and curio 
 shops are filled with marvels in the way of interesting and 
 valuable fabrics, articles of common usage and curios. 
 
 The population is so dense that it is impossible to run street 
 car lines, therefore, the heavy traffic is carried on entirely by 
 means of "rickshaws" and native carts, drawn generally by 
 men. 
 
 In China it is customary for the son to continue in the 
 business or trade of the father, so that when a man finds him- 
 self born to the "rickshaw," he takes up the shafts as natur- 
 ally as a horse would here at home. It is the same in all 
 branches. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 97 
 
 I found these odd little baby carriage affairs quite con- 
 venient. One can, if he desires only to ride three or four 
 blocks, or even should he wish to take a sixty mile trip, as 
 I sometimes did, obtain the services of a "Chink" with his 
 "rickshaw" for the entire trip at the rate of five cents for 
 three blocks or thereabouts, twenty cents an hour or over a 
 half hour, with ten cents per hour for a day or more, after 
 the first hour. This in the currency of China, usually Mex- 
 ican money, which at present is worth 46.4. However, in 
 small change the ratio is generally two for one. 
 
 There are several good hotels in Hong Kong, and quite a 
 number of prominent clubs among the English officers and 
 resident Americans. 
 
 The white residents hold themselves aloof from Chinese 
 society; but in commercial pursuits the native cannot be 
 ignored. They are extremely smart, keen business men and 
 those of higher class are said to be very satisfactory in their 
 commercial dealings. 
 
 The United States Navy has a purchasing pay officer sta- 
 tioned in Hong Kong, who purchases a great many supplies 
 for the fleet on Asiatic station. Many staple articles can be 
 sent from there to Manila at a less cost than from America. 
 
 Considerable repairing of naval vessels is done at the Kow- 
 loon Dock Yards, across the bay from the city of Hong Kong, 
 and the Spanish ships, General Alava, Don Juan de Austria, 
 Isla de Cuba and Isla de Luzon, sunk in Manila by Admiral 
 Dewey and afterwards raised, were rebuilt there. The work 
 and docking is expensive but, considering the extra expense of 
 
98 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 going one thousand miles farther to Japan, though Japanese 
 work is cheaper, when considered in cost of coal, time and 
 wear and tear on machinery, it is deemed expedient to repair 
 ships of the southern or Philippine squadron at Hong Kong. 
 
 JSTot long after our return to Manila from repairing the 
 battered plates of the Bennington it was necessary to send her 
 north again to dock and undergo general repairs, so, the health 
 of her crew being bad, the admiral ordered her north to Naga- 
 saki, Japan, for a general overhauling. 
 
 On April 9, 1900, the Bennington steamed through the 
 crooked narrow entrance into the harbor of Nagasaki. Imme- 
 diately the beauty and economical farming of these industrious 
 little people manifested itself. The mountains surrounding 
 the harbor were terraced from base to limit of vegetation by 
 rice and garden patches. The people who cultivated the soil 
 live in towns and go to and fro each day to work. 
 
 They build stone or mud walls five to ten feet high, then 
 filling in from the mountain side, level off a patch of, per- 
 haps, twenty yards square, on which they plant. The moun- 
 tain sides are terraced with these little gardens, and so ar- 
 ranged that water is caught on top of the mountain and irri- 
 gated through each little terrace in turn, trickling first through 
 an onion bed, then a patch of potatoes, or a rice field, on 
 down through, possibly, twenty different little farms, until 
 at last it reaches the creek at the mountain's base and rushes 
 away to the sea. 
 
 In this manner no particle of ground is wasted. It must 
 have taken centuries to effect these improvements, ftor the 
 
In that Delightful Country of "Grown-up Babies.' 
 
 Lore. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 101 
 
 walls look old, and surrounding cemeteries, with ancient green, 
 moss covered, letter defaced tombstones, stand as proof of 
 generation after generation laid away in the family lot. 
 
 Like the Chinese, they carry on the occupations of their 
 forefathers, and the Japanese love their memory with a fervor 
 that becomes a religion. 
 
 Their houses are cunning little box-wood affairs, with lat- 
 ticed paper sliding panels for walls, so that on sunny days 
 the entire side of a room may be slid back, admitting the most 
 delicate mountain flower perfume and sweet song of the many 
 varieties of gaily plumed birds. The houses have few fixtures 
 except an elaborate dresser, with countless little puzzle drawers, 
 and a clock. They have no bedsteads but keep in day time 
 a number of heavy quilted bed clothes piled neatly in a corner 
 which, at night are made into a pallet on the straw-matted 
 floor. The women sleep on a block of wood made to fit the 
 neck and base of skull, so not to disarrange their elaborately 
 coiled and rolled Jiair. 
 
 Their kitchens are models of ancient plain handiness, kept 
 spick and span as a battleship, with stone ovens for cooking. 
 Few indeed of their cooking utensils would be recognized by 
 an American housewife, but they manage to get up some excel- 
 lent dishes with their aid. 
 
 The people are far the most interesting of any met during 
 my travels. To begin with, they are a nation of "grown up" 
 babies. The women, little, alert, bright, pretty, baby-faced 
 and full of fun. The men are the lords of creation in their 
 eyes. They are proud, independent, dignified on occasions 
 
102 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 and very courteous. They have proven themselves gentlemen, 
 brave, intelligent and honorable, in their dealings and asso- 
 ciations with other countries. They greatly admire Ameri- 
 cans, and of late years are willing and anxious to accept mod- 
 ern inventions, and are making, perhaps, more rapid strides 
 than any other nation on earth toward higher civilization; 
 but, of course, they have farther to go. 
 
 Commodore Perry, of the United States ^avy, a direct an- 
 cestor of Rear Admiral Frederick Rodgers, now in command 
 of the southern squadron on Asiatic station under command 
 of Admiral Remey, first opened Japan to commerce, and he 
 is so honored by them in memory that a monument was built 
 and unveiled last year at the place of his first landing, Admiral 
 Rodgers attending with Jris flagship, the New York. 
 
 The majority of Japanese wear the national costume but 
 among men European clothing is slowly coming into use. They 
 are not able, however, generally to wear our clothes with the 
 grace of their own. 
 
 The women seldom appear in other dress than the "kimona," 
 and indeed they should not ; for it would be hard to imagine a 
 sweeter picture than a young, laughing, rosy cheeked, little 
 Japanese lass, trotting along on her high cleated sandals, with 
 her hair elaborately coiffured, and her kimona rivaling the 
 rainbow in gaudy colors. 
 
 On fine days you can see them by dozens about the streets in 
 the afternoon, bare-headed and decked in all the finery imag- 
 inable, laughing, joking, holding hands, or strolling along with 
 arms about each other's waists, school girl fashion. They 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 103 
 
 will, sometimes, indulge in a wee bit of flirtation with a white 
 man, and as long as he does not try to be too familiar will 
 laugh, smile, make eyes, and pout at him, but at the first sign 
 of undue familiarity on his part, dignity and scorn come read- 
 ily to them and they will turn their plump little backs and 
 walk away with all the proud scorn and hurt dignity imag- 
 inable. 
 
 I found them, if treated right, perfect little ladies and gen- 
 tlemen, but it was rather difficult to become accustomed to 
 their ways. 
 
 They have little idea of modesty, as we understand it. For 
 instance, many public baths are open to both sex, and I was 
 informed that it is only of late years that any distinction, 
 whatever, was made in such matters, even at the most fash- 
 ionable places. 
 
 At railway stations in the interior one toilet usually suffices 
 for both sex and no attempt is made in the line of appearance 
 or modesty. 
 
 There are many modern schools in Japan, where high art 
 and the sciences are taught ; and an educated Japanese recently 
 informed me that the higher class of natives are adopting the 
 Christian religion. 
 
 The "rickshaw" is a great Japanese feature and the men 
 who make this a life-long business are the strongest sturdy 
 lot of fellows I have ever seen. I have driven them as far 
 as sixty miles in a day, over mountains, through valleys and 
 picturesque scenery which might almost tempt angels to inhabit 
 our old earth. And to spin swiftly over the excellently paved 
 
104 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 smooth roads, in the shade of great towering cliffs, through 
 bright green valleys, breathing a soft sea breeze, spiced with 
 the richest perfume of foreign flowers — to pass through dense 
 forests of unfamiliar trees and burst suddenly through the 
 narrow green archway of branches upon a white sandy beach, 
 where the view stretches for miles out over a sea as deep and 
 blue as a Japanese maiden's eyes — I say, to burst suddenly 
 out from all this delightful maze of verdure upon the sea 
 beach, where tiny curling wavelets roll pretty shells up to your 
 feet, is to forget, for the time being, all care and the world, 
 to dream and dream of causes and condition, of origin and end, 
 in perfect oblivion of all eternity. 
 
 Why it should appear, I cannot say, but it seemed to me that 
 the sea about old Japan was bluer, the air sweeter, the flowers 
 brighter and more fragrant, and even the birds, though of 
 strange variety and throat, sang sweeter. The people looked 
 cheerful and happy. The country seemed a land of paradise. 
 
 The Japanese are very thrifty, and in matters of skilled 
 workmanship surpass any people visited during my travels. 
 Their work in silk embroidery has become famous throughout 
 the world. In Nagasaki, I ordered from a shop making a 
 specialty of such work, a silk embroidered picture of the Ben- 
 nington. Having previously planned the outline myself, I 
 described it, the best I could by means of a book printed in 
 both Japanese and English, to the manager, who made occa- 
 sional notes in the peculiar scrawly up and down writing of 
 his people, and seemed to grasp at once my ideas. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 105 
 
 I could not believe that he thoroughly understood my de- 
 sign in such a limited and awkward interview, so waited, with 
 no little anxiety the completion of his work. 
 
 A week later he came on board the vessel, his yellow face 
 wreathed in smiles and his black eyes fairly snapping with 
 affected pleasure at again meeting me. When the work was 
 unrolled it was with the utmost astonishment that I beheld 
 the result of his little daughter's labors. It was simply 
 wonderful. In plain description: the picture was embroidered 
 on black silk about three feet and a half square. In the upper 
 left hand corner the Cuban and Spanish flags were crossed. 
 In the right upper corner the Filipino and Spanish colors 
 crossed represented the conflict of nations. Worked in the 
 two lower corners respectively left and right, were a cavalry- 
 man in United States army uniform and sailor in the dress of 
 the navy. Inside the circle thus bounded was embroidered 
 first, a wreath about two and a half feet in diameter of flags 
 of all nations upon whose shores I had looked while in the 
 service of our country. The flags, as all the rest of the picture, 
 were embroidered in their natural colors, and formed a frame 
 for a picture of the Bennington, complete, steaming into the 
 harbor of Nagasaki. This also was worked in silk, even to 
 the pictured sky and water. It was a masterpiece, and is one 
 of the most highly prized souvenirs in my possession. It is 
 emblematic of my service and is the finest of its kind I have 
 ever seen. 
 
 The tea houses of Japan interest all travelers. They are 
 simply pretty little bamboo houses, placed about the country 
 
106 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 at convenient locations, where travelers may rest and drink tea 
 with several nice varieties of sweet-cakes and confectionery. 
 I believe the most interesting feature of these tea houses is their 
 pretty little laughing girl attendants. Straw and cane divans 
 are placed temptingly about, and I found it delightful, when 
 weary after a climb of five or six thousand feet up the side 
 of a mountain to lie upon a couch overhanging a valley hun- 
 dreds of feet below, where the view stretched for miles up and 
 down the winding little stream along whose verdure fringed 
 banks dotted here and there tiny picturesque cottages of country 
 residents, while two or three pretty little maids fussed about 
 the house each contributing a part of a dainty refreshment, 
 consisting, perhaps, of tea, cakes, gingered bamboo-root and 
 candy. 
 
 They would gather demurely about the couch and, if en- 
 couraged, would finally become very friendly, pointing to arti- 
 cles in the house and repeating the Japanese name desire me 
 to speak the English word for the same article. Though they 
 could speak no English, it is surprising how much of a con- 
 versation one can get up with signs, perhaps, a book of both 
 languages, and articles of dress, etc. In two minutes they 
 would be nearly overflowing with merriment and as happy as 
 birds. If pleased a Japanese lass will either laugh or keep 
 her face perfectly calm, while the laugh will sparkle from her 
 eyes like raindrops in the moonlight. If something intimated 
 should displease her, she will bring such an avalanche of ice 
 and hauteur to her aid that you are glad at any cost to win 
 again the sunshine. When in sorrow she crawls away to her- 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 107 
 
 self, under the bed clothing kept piled away in the corner, in 
 the dark, or anywhere to hide, while her bosom is wrung with 
 the most intense anguish and her form shaken in silent uncom- 
 forted sobs. Anger has the usual mode of displaying itself — 
 she can "give 'em fits" just about the same as an American 
 girl. 
 
 Tea is served in tiny China cups, of quaint fashion, and is 
 always of the best quality. They are undoubtedly the best 
 tea makers of the world. 
 
 During the above mentioned visit at Nagasaki, I chanced 
 upon one of the best appointed China stores in the city, and 
 being somewhat interested in this commodity of Japan, entered 
 making inquiries as to the manufacture, material, design and 
 prices. But it was a bad place for a man to go if he did not 
 wish to spend his money. 
 
 On all sides there appeared a glare of elaborately decorated 
 tea and coffee sets, as well as other pieces. However, having 
 entered, it was my next desire to get out as cheaply as possible, 
 so selected a pretty tea set of forty-three pieces, decorated in 
 Turkish red and gold, with scenes of Japan in natural colors. 
 The little cups were almost as thin as paper but said to be very 
 tough. I also purchased a small English black coffee set in 
 twenty-four pieces, decorated much the same as the tea set, as 
 well as several separate pieces and plates. A pound cady of 
 fine Japanese tea was put in the box with the dishes and the 
 whole so carefully packed, that, though I carried them about 
 a year and a half in the orient, and then half the way around 
 
108 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 the world on my return voyage home, only three cups and one 
 saucer were broken on arrival. 
 
 Japanese women work everywhere, in stores, homes, laun- 
 dries, tailoring establishments, in offices, drug stores and on 
 farms. They are very plump, but much of it is due to solid 
 muscle. 
 
 They wear little clothing, except the kimona, and perhaps a 
 short flannel petticoat or cloth wrapped about their hips, un- 
 derclothing being little used winter or summer. It is a com- 
 mon sight, so familiar as to early become uninteresting, to see 
 hundreds of women and girls on the streets, trotting along in 
 their peculiar way, displaying at every step through the parted 
 folds of their kimona dimpled white knees ; but in Japan no no- 
 tice whatever is taken of such things because they are the cus- 
 toms of past and present generations. 
 
 A household is liable to consist of a great grandfather and 
 all his descendants ; the children, as they marry, remaining at 
 either one home or the other, making the entire family num- 
 ber as high as seventy-five people. Great respect is shown to 
 elders, and their homes are often made beautiful by perfect love. 
 
 In Nagasaki I was invited to spend the day and night at 
 the home of a Japanese boy, who had been educated in the 
 United States. We left the wharf about three o'clock on a 
 beautiful sunny afternoon, taking "rickshaws" to the railway 
 station nearly a mile away. The drive only lasted about five 
 or six minutes, but, as our route lay through an aristocratic 
 residence portion of the city, I found it very interesting. A 
 fine residence will have shoulder high stone walls about the 
 
y, 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 111 
 
 house with large iron gates through which, as you flit by, can 
 be caught a glimpse of the interior. 
 
 Often appears a mosaic stone walk leading to front steps 
 of marble or white stone, on either side of which will, proba- 
 bly, be carved images of dragons, lion, or a hideous figure, con- 
 jured in the brain of some highly imaginative native sculptor. 
 A large pair of heavy folding panel doors, opening into a long 
 hall extending entirely through the house. A wide stairway 
 will sometimes be seen winding upward to the second and 
 third story. These houses are usually built of stone, and 
 nearly square, with the characteristic tiled roof, artistically 
 laid after the Japanese idea of beauty. Very neatly arranged 
 tiny lawns usually surround the houses of the rich and flowers 
 abound in them. 
 
 On arriving at the depot I found a very neat modern affair, 
 copied from American railway depots with a single large wait- 
 ing room for both sex. Telegraph instruments were clicking 
 away familiarly, but, though I have served as a telegrapher 
 in the United States, their words were unintelligible to me. 
 They do not use the Morse code, besides they use the Japanese 
 language. 
 
 At the ticket office we were asked if we desired first, second 
 or third class tickets. My friend, acting as interpreter, secured 
 first class tickets and we passed through stilling on to the 
 train platform, where a modern narrow gauge train was stand- 
 ing, its up-to-date little locomotive puffing and steaming in 
 true Yankee style. 
 
112 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 This seemed homelike. Ranging from the engine aft were 
 mail and baggage cars, one first and second class coach com- 
 bined, and three third class coaches, the latter filled with ne- 
 groes. First class fare being nearly treble the third ; they take 
 advantage of economy. It is customary for Europeans and 
 high class Japs to ride first class. 
 
 Only one native gentleman occupied our half of the coach; 
 a high official of state, I was informed. He seemed to resent, 
 a little, the entrance of sailors into his company, but aside 
 from occasional scrutinizing glances of curiosity paid little 
 attention to us. 
 
 Presently, on the time scheduled, a clanging bell accom- 
 panied the pulling out of our train which was soon whirling 
 away into inland Japan. 
 
 On either side, as we left the city, began to appear the 
 mountainside farms described above ; every foot of ground was 
 utilized and the clusters of neat little cottages testified to the 
 thrift of such farming. 
 
 It occurred to me that, if American farmers paid more at- 
 tention to fertilizing and irrigation, with care as to utilizing 
 every inch of ground, their farms would yield more money 
 to the acre. In the United States farmers leave six to ten 
 feet on either side of fences and at each end of a field, which 
 would if planted add a little to the acreage of his plot under 
 cultivation. Narrow paths between fields take up the only 
 waste in the farms of Japan. There are few fences. They are 
 extremely neat and methodical in their farming and homes. 
 Loose boards and old machinery lying about, and clogged irri- 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVV 113 
 
 gation ditches are practically unknown. Their homes are per- 
 fect pictures, even among the poorest, for old dame nature, if 
 assisted, will yield great returns on labor invested, and they 
 are not stingy of that. 
 
 On and on we flew past these unique villages, over tiny 
 livers whose waters were so clear that fish could be seen plainly 
 in their depths, through beautiful valleys of flowers, pretty 
 wooded hills, and long stretches of well paved white roads lined 
 the mountain and river sides. Everywhere could be seen the 
 picturesque little "rickshaw" bowling along at a smart pace, 
 with its highly dressed occupants rivaling the landscape in color- 
 ing and brightness. 
 
 About every five miles the airbrake and warning whistle in- 
 formed us of an approaching station, where all was bustle and 
 confusion, while giggling girls bid their friends good-bye, staid 
 old officials boarded the train in proud silence, and dogs barked 
 at the noisy little engine. 
 
 The depots were models of neatness and the courtesy of 
 train and station men was considerably beyond that of Amer- 
 ican railway employes. In fact our people might gain con- 
 siderable in all public affairs by following the Japs in polite 
 attention to their patrons. 
 
 There were no "peanut butchers" or news agents to annoy 
 passengers, but periodicals and refreshments could be obtained 
 at nearly every station in quaint little shops or booths for that 
 purpose. 
 
 In about an hour the forty mile journey was completed, 
 where we found "rickshaws" from my friend's father's home 
 waiting to carry us a couple of miles to his country seat. 
 
114 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 The drive was a repetition of many other drives in the coun- 
 try I had taken, description of which has already been given. 
 
 As we drove up the little shaded avenue through a tiny park 
 of native trees and flowers, a bevy of brilliant figures came 
 trooping to meet us with soft exclamations of the only Eng- 
 lish words they knew (probably learned since receiving informa- 
 tion of our coming visit) of "Oh, Melika (America), Melika, 
 welcome, Chesi makie muchie welcome, Melika," while they sur- 
 rounded us bowing very low, again and again, their faces 
 wreathed in a perfect sunshine of smiles. 
 
 The old father and mother came out and after embracing 
 their son, whom they had not seen for several years, invited us 
 into the house, the aged father, in complete gala native dress 
 leading the way. 
 
 The house was such as that described earlier in the chapter, 
 excepting the high iron fence. There wast no fence here but 
 quite a large lawn, dotted and fringed with flower beds, decora- 
 tive bushes and trees. Several grand old shade trees surrounded 
 the house under which cool breezes were wafted from the sea, 
 which, owing to the curved coast, skirted their lawn. 
 
 The sky was beautifully blue, hazed with soft, fleecy, silver 
 clouds, giving that Indian-summer expression to the day that 
 makes such visits complete. 
 
 At the door we stopped and removed our shoes, it being the 
 heighth of ill manners to walk upon the polished hard wood 
 floors of a Japanese dwelling. 
 
 My friend's sister, one of the delightful little maidens who 
 greeted us so cordially, came with straw sandals for use in the 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 115 
 
 house, and begged to be allowed to assist in removing our shoes. 
 In Japan, woman's duty is to serve man, and she does it with 
 so much grace and willingness that it is her greatest compli- 
 ment, and is made a pleasure to both her and the master in- 
 stead of a duty. 
 
 By permitting her to see in my refusal of assistance, the 
 disgust it was but natural to feel toward a custom that humili- 
 ated women to such an extent, I had the misfortune to wound 
 her fellings, and it was not until I had spent an hour endeavor- 
 ing to please her with tales of American life that she finally 
 returned to the characteristic good humor in which I first 
 found her. With the aid of her brother's linguistic talent we 
 carried on a lengthy conversation, and I soon found her to be 
 talented and educated to a high degree. It was a surprise, 
 indeed, to see that this girl, in the environments, apparently 
 of ignorance, possessed the character and refinement of a per- 
 fect lady. Her manners were sweet, and engaging; her con- 
 versation piquant and sensible; while her smile and pretty 
 baby ways in general completely captivated one. 
 
 She informed me that her education had been completed in 
 Tokio, Japan's capital, where there are several high class col- 
 leges. 
 
 The entire family were intensely interested in America, 
 especially in our government and manners and customs of our 
 people. A description of American girls' dress and manners 
 interested her, but she held firmly the idea that the American 
 girl's dress was less comfortable and picturesque than her own. 
 
 She thought the idea of American girls going out alone with 
 
116 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 their sweethearts very bad and laughed at our manner of court- 
 ship. She informed me that her mamma always accompanied 
 her out into society and that her admirers always had to enter- 
 tain the "old folks" also when they came. 
 
 She wished very much that she might marry a nice American 
 and be taken to his country on her wedding tour, but preferred 
 to make her home in old Japan, where she might add to the 
 comfort and happiness of her parents in their declining years. 
 
 She showed me some embroidery and grew eloquent in her 
 recital of proposed pieces for future work, informing me that 
 my American sweetheart should receive a sample of her em- 
 broidery, and that when she visited "Melika" she would call 
 on us and "takie tea." 
 
 She performed for me upon the samesan, a native musical 
 instrument similar to our banjo, but, I regret to admit that the 
 music was better when she stopped playing and returned to 
 conversation. 
 
 She was very anxious to attend one of our schools, where 
 she could, as she expressed it, "Makie learn talk Melika." 
 
 She showed me her dolls, queer little Japanese faced affairs, 
 her books, and as a special favor took me out on the lawn to 
 see her pet kitten; but the cat, resenting America's intrusion, 
 bristled up and as the "boys in brown say" "hiked around the 
 corner out of sight." Little Kitsu laughed and said "Him 
 jealous ; him makie scatt ! All same Melikan say." 
 
 Returning to the family circle the father gave some order in 
 his own tongue, and servant girls brought in the first course 
 of dinner. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 117 
 
 And such a dinner! Twenty courses! Chopsticks, sitting 
 Turkish fashion on our feet, with a circle of tiny dishes of 
 undescribable viands placed on the floor about us. The little 
 ladies gave every attention and seemed to anticipate every de- 
 sire almost before it was realized. 
 
 I ate a little of nearly all the dishes, but, in strict truth 
 there were not many palatable ones to me. The wines were better 
 and a puff at their little native pipes, with tea, after dinner, 
 with little Kitsu to fill and light it, was the best of all. It 
 required strong will power to keep from falling in love with 
 Kitsu, but, by the greatest effort, I came away heart whole. 
 
 The aged father gave us all a lengthy lecture or afterdinner 
 talk, that, as translated by the son, was deeply interesting and 
 sound in judgment, experience and advice. I can see him now, 
 in fancy, sitting stoically in the center of the intent circle of 
 relatives, his white head bowed with age, his little thin chiu 
 whiskers shaking in a funny characteristic way as he spoke, 
 while he continually puffed and reached out to be refilled the 
 little native pipe of friendship. His twinkling little sunken 
 eyes lighted and dimmed with the warmth and memory of love 
 as he related, warned and advised the younger generation. 
 With what interest and reverence they all listened ! I, like the 
 rest, was moved to passion and enthusiasm, as the narrative 
 turned and flowed through the crevices of honor, love and ex- 
 perience. There have been many lectures, talks and counsels 
 that appealed to me at different times of my life, but never 
 have I enjoyed one so strange, solemn and interesting. 
 
118 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 About eight o'clock in the evening we adjourned to the lawn, 
 where fireworks and private theatricals had been previously 
 arranged for our entertainment. Strange figures of fire were 
 fired into the sky to float away into the night until they re- 
 sembled twinkling stars of unearthly shapes. Beautiful pin- 
 wheels of changing colors, shifting into pictures of fire, and 
 finally ending with a great glare of changing colored light. 
 Odd Punch and Judies of fire were made to act for our benefit, 
 and sky rockets hissing out into the heavens with a terrific 
 explosion at their highest point, released tiny bells with para- 
 chutes, which tinkled and tolled as they fell. 
 
 A small stage had been erected upon which a Japanese 
 tragedy, and love scene were depicted by members of the house- 
 hold. There was no music except the monotonous thumping 
 of the samesan, which lent interest to the weird oriental scene. 
 
 There were no outsiders invited to meet the "Melikan," as 
 would be the case if the situation were reversed and in the 
 United States, but their family circle, when complete, num- 
 bered about forty people. 
 
 When the lawn entertainment was over, about ten o'clock, 
 we returned to the house where wine and cigarettes assisted us 
 to while away another hour with story telling, when we were 
 shown to rooms and given each a kimona and a block of wood 
 for a pillow. The little "shakedown" beds of Japan are not 
 quite as comfortable as our own. 
 
 In our little latticed paper walled room there was a bureau, 
 clock, samesan, bed clothing and a large square stone carved out 
 from the top in which was burning a charcoal fire in ashes. 
 
Little Kitsu and her Chum. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 121 
 
 On the side of this stone sat a small tea pot, filled and ready 
 with two cups nearby, so that, if one desired, a cup of tea might 
 help pass any wakeful hours. 
 
 Though amid scenes so strange as to seem almost unearthly, 
 sleep came early to me and the little "shakedown" proved so sat- 
 isfactory that my first awakening was when the birds were hop- 
 ping about in the sunshine outside, chirping a "good morning" 
 to we lazy fellows. 
 
 Almost immediately a gentle knock at the door attracted 
 my attention while a soft sweet voice articulated "Come Melika 
 bath makie all ledy." The door opened a couple of inches and 
 a bath towel was thrown hurriedly in, when my visitor fled 
 precipitately down the hall amid resonant laughter from her- 
 self and mates, who had, probably, drawn lots to see who would 
 awaken the "Melikan," and were, no doubt, watching the per- 
 formance. 
 
 The bath was a large vat, measuring, perhaps, ten by fifteen 
 by three and a half feet in depth, and full of luke-warm water. 
 A luxury, indeed, and one of which the Japs make free use. 
 
 I learned that it is customary for both sex, among the na- 
 tives, to bathe together in these vats, in fact entire families 
 occupy them at once, but the home in which I was being enter- 
 tained would, no doubt, study some of the customs of their for- 
 eign guest and hesitate to shock him. 
 
 In Japan there is no false modesty or prudery, and in some 
 ways it is an improvement. While I do not, of course, advo- 
 cate this custom of bathing in public, there are many common 
 sense ways of being comfortable, while at the same time per- 
 
122 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 f ectly chaste and proper, of which Americans fail to avail them- 
 selves. 
 
 However, we were spared the embarrassment of public ablu- 
 tion and met the family first at breakfast, where all was joy 
 and gaity, the "Chesi" appearing even more lovely, if possible, 
 than on the previous evening. 
 
 As we were intending to return by the ten o'clock train, con- 
 versation was held principally upon the topic of a future visit. 
 Little Kitsu promised faithfully to carry me across the moun- 
 tains to visit a noted cave and the sulphur springs famous 
 throughout Japan for their medicinal qualities, when next we 
 visited them. 
 
 She was a perfect little chatter-box, having once become ac- 
 quainted, and asked more questions about American girls than 
 I could well answer. 
 
 The old mother said little, but kept careful watch concerning 
 the comfort of all. She was a sweet, little, old lady and one felt 
 toward her that respectful tender sentiment always deserved 
 by good kind mothers. 
 
 The little "kiddies" of the household were very, very much 
 interested in the foreign "Melikan" and watched with great 
 liquid eyes every move and gesture. They were exceedingly 
 well behaved ; were, in fact, perfect little ladies and gentlemen. 
 
 One little girl, a mere tot of four years, came and sat down 
 upon my knee, while I told her the story of "Little Red Riding 
 Hood." She had never heard of it before but said in her pretty 
 baby way (in Japanese to her brother, who told me in Eng- 
 lish) that she thought the wolf was very, very bad, and if she 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 123 
 
 met him she should look the other way, and, if he said anything 
 to her, she would just stick her tongue out at him, even if it 
 were naughty. 
 
 The most interesting of all the tales I could tell them, was 
 the story of the life of Jesus. They wanted to know about him 
 and if I believed it true and a great many things on the sub- 
 ject. 
 
 Though not a biblomaniae I had read the bible, and even 
 though my interest has since childhood been centered upon 
 travel, human nature has held a charm for me also, and in no 
 work is it so interestingly portrayed as in the bible. There- 
 fore, I was thankful that I could tell them the story of our 
 Savior, not in a threatening manner — declaring their souls 
 were lost if they did not at once act as I directed — but I told 
 them the story as it is, and of his life as he lived it every day. 
 Little four-year-old Kisen listened attentively while her brother 
 translated the story, until the end, then was silent for several 
 seconds, when she finally articulated, "Melikan Jesus lovely 
 man." 
 
 I explained that he was not only an American, but also a 
 Japanese Jesus, and would even, perhaps, save a little Chinese 
 or Korean girl if she was good and loved him. 
 
 The old father nodded approvingly at different times while 
 I told the story, and finally went among his curios and brought 
 me an English bible from which I read to them parrs of the 
 story as I had told it. This satisfied them all that I had spoken 
 the truth, and little Kitsu told me in confidence, just as I was 
 leaving that she would pray to Jesus for my safety while on the 
 
124 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 sea, and that I might reach in due time my own home and 
 sweetheart on the other side of the world in far off "Melika." 
 
 Our return to the ship was uneventful, except on arriving on 
 board, I learned that she was ordered home. 
 
 Oh ! With what joy I sat down and wrote the glad tidings 
 home to loved ones. How my heart leaped at the thoughts of 
 seeing home once more ! 
 
 But, alas, we do not control all of our lives, and, although I 
 fully expected to come home in the Bennington, on the day of 
 her sailing orders came from the commander-in-chief to trans- 
 fer all men having over a year to serve on their enlistment to 
 the New Orleans for return to Manila, which order meant that 
 I must again enter the field, and endure the terrible heat of 
 the Philippines. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 PROMOTED ON STAFF OF COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF, FLAGSHIP BROOK- 
 LYN WAR OF ALLIED POWERS AGAINST BOXERS IN 
 
 CHINA LEGATIONS BESIEGED BATTLE OF 
 
 TIEN TSIN AMONG THE CHINESE 
 
 DEAD NARROW ESCAPE. 
 
 T 
 
 HE Bennington, after several months' hard service in the 
 Philippine Islands, was ordered home. I thought up 
 to the last moment that I was going with her, but just 
 before sailing was transferred to the cruiser New Orleans for 
 transportation to Manila, and ordered to assist Mr. Ruppe, the 
 ship's writer, during passage. I felt very badly over it, and in 
 a fit of homesickness wrote the following : 
 
 "god forsaken." 
 
 On the eve before sailing, 
 
 At- work in the office, 
 The first luff at us railing, 
 
 The captain doth scoff us. 
 
 Forward sneaks Casey (the messenger) 
 
 A smoke to enhale; 
 Says, "If executive calls me, 
 
 Bluff 'im sure without fail — 
 
 Say the decks I am seeking ; 
 
 Then should he snort, 
 Chase 'im back in his stateroom 
 
 And give 'im a quart." 
 
126 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 The boats are all hoisted, 
 
 We're now ready for sea, 
 "Good-bye Nagasaki, 
 
 To Manila we flee." 
 
 And God help the Dago, 
 
 Who there doth us sass, 
 For our temper is ruffled 
 
 By the Bennington' s brass. 
 
 She's off to God's country, 
 
 Where we ought to be, 
 But we're here shipped for service, 
 
 Of years there are three. 
 
 Though we viewed all the islands 
 
 Of the Philippine group, 
 Long suffered in silence 
 
 Myself and dear Ruppe. 
 
 Again we are bound there, 
 
 The sad dose to repeat; 
 Again we must suffer 
 
 All hell from the heat. 
 
 But, though they may roast us, 
 
 General court-martial us to zero, 
 With health and God's blessing, 
 
 We'll discharge as two heroes. 
 
 So Casey smoke on, 
 
 Jimmy Legs doesn't know, 
 The world is unhindered, 
 
 To Manila we go. 
 
 On the day the dear old ship steamed out of Nagasaki harbor 
 for home, I, with a number of others, was transferred to the 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 127 
 
 New Orleans, and had the pleasure of manning the rigging to 
 "cheer homeward bound ship," in obedience to the boatswain's 
 order, as the one hundred yard homeward bound pennant of the 
 Bennington floated out over the bay. We stood on deck and 
 watched the ship which had been our home for so many months 
 and from which we had witnessed so many queer sights and 
 events steam out of the harbor, headed via Yokohama for 
 America without us, leaving us once more to fight fever, heat, 
 disease and Filipinos in the Philippine Islands, 
 
 The New Orleans left Nagasaki for Manila on May 19, 1900, 
 where she arrived on the twenty-fifth. Everything appeared 
 unchanged on the islands ; the armies were still fighting, there 
 were rumors afloat of hostilities in the near future, but noth- 
 ing "doing." 
 
 On the twenty-seventh of May I was transferred to the Mon- 
 itor Monadnock, lying off Cavite and acting as guard-ship. 
 
 That night I made my bed on deck under cover of the beau- 
 tiful southern heavens. The bright glimmering of the tropi- 
 cal moon and sky made the clear night almost like day. The 
 water quiet as a mill pond, men-of-war about the bay lying 
 at anchor, lights showing from their ports, suggesting probable 
 festivities within, and occasionally the creaking of an anchor 
 chain, the bark of a Filipino dog, or the voice of a native would 
 float lazily out from the bamboo fringed shore half a mile away, 
 or across the unruffled waters. 
 
 Of course I went to sleep thinking of home and calculating 
 the probable date of arrival of the Bennington in the United 
 
12b AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 States, nursing my disappointment at not being allowed to go 
 with her. 
 
 It seemed that my eyes were barely closed in slumber, when 
 a fellow awakened me and pointed to the Bennington lying 
 gracefully at anchor on our port beam. Well, I pinched both 
 myself and the other fellow, but finally had to acknowledge 
 the facts. The Bennington's orders had been countermanded 
 and she had returned to Manila. I went aboard and -offered 
 to buy their homeward bound pennant and otherwise joked them, 
 but soon found it dangerous and restrained my mirth. They 
 were in no humor to joke about so great a disappointment. 
 
 The draft which came from the Bennington were told to pack 
 up and return to her, but five minutes before departure a signal 
 came from the flagship Brooklyn ordering me to report imme- 
 diately to the commander-in-chief for duty as chief yeoman -n 
 his personal staff. 
 
 The flagship Brooklyn is an armored cruiser of 9,215 tons 
 displacement, 400 feet 6 inches long, 64 feet 8 inches beam and 
 26 feet draft. She has twin screws, two sets of triple expan- 
 sion engines for each screw. Each of the four engines is in a 
 water-tight compartment. In ordinary cruising the two for- 
 ward engines are uncoupled and only the after pair used, giving 
 an economical speed of twelve and a half knots. On her trial 
 trip the Brooklyn made an average speed of twenty-one and 
 nine-tenths knots per hour for four consecutive hours. She 
 has five double ended and two single ended boilers of the Scotch 
 type. 
 
Quarter-deck of Flagship Brooklyn, showing 
 Guns of Santiago Fame. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 131 
 
 The battery consisted of eight eight-inch guns, arranged in 
 pairs in four turrets, twelve five inch, ten six pounders, four 
 one pounder rapid fire guns, two three inch field pieces, and 
 several automatic guns for use mainly in landing. There is 
 a partial water line belt of three inch armor, reinforced by an 
 armor deck from three to six inches thick, and the guns are 
 protected by a thickness of five and a half to eight inches. 
 There are four torpedo tubes above water. The complement 
 carried at this time was thirty-seven officers, five hundred men 
 and sixty-eight marines. 
 
 The vessel was built at Cramp's ship yard in Philadelphia, 
 launched in 1895, and put in commission in December, 1896. 
 
 She took part in the Queen's Jubilee review at Spithead in 
 June, 1897, flying the flag of Eear Admiral J. K Miller, TJ. 
 S. K 
 
 During the Spanish- American war, she was flagship of Com- 
 modore W. S. Schley, U. S. ~N., and took a prominent part in 
 the battle of Santiago. In commemoration of this event, the 
 date "July 3, 1898," is inscribed on the after bridge. The only 
 man killed on the American side was on the Brooklyn, Chief 
 Yeoman Ellis, and there are still one or two marks of the fight 
 to be seen on the hull. In the officers' mess rooms pieces of side 
 plating pierced by projectiles from the Spanish guns have been 
 framed and hung. 
 
 The flagship of the commander-in-chief is a place generally 
 kept clear of by navy men as much as possible. Why, I am 
 unable to say. There is no real danger, perhaps, but great and 
 high authority usually stamps fear into the minds of inferiors. 
 
132 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 To be a stenographer on the personal staff of so great a man had 
 never come into my ambition, so it may be readily understood 
 how the above mentioned order startled me. 
 
 While I felt competent of my ability in the capacity of yeo- 
 man to the captain of the Bennington, she was only one ship ; 
 whereas Admiral Kemey commanded over fifty vessels of war, 
 the naval station at Cavite, Cavite Peninsula, and a part of 
 Basil an Province, including about seventeen thousand men, and 
 I felt certain of my inability to assist in affairs so large. 
 
 The Monadnoch sent me over to the flagship Brooklyn in her 
 steam launch and there has never been a time in my life when 
 I felt so insignificant as when I stepped upon the quarter deck 
 and reported to the officer-of-the-deck my arrival for duty on 
 the admiral's staff. 
 
 The officer-of-the-deck looked me carefully over, and it 
 seemed to me that I could see him sneer in derision at my ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 Calling his messenger, Mr. Boone sent him to show me to the 
 flag office. There I stood at "attention" in front of the secre- 
 tary, Mr. Belknap's desk, while he ran his eyes over me, much 
 the same as he might a horse he was thinking of buying. 
 
 Presently in a very kindly voice he said, "Swift, the admiral 
 requires a stenographer; you have been recommended to him 
 and are here on trial." Handing me pencil, he said, "Take this 
 down," and commenced dictating one of the first naval orders 
 issued by Admiral Remey in connection with the war against 
 the Chinese Boxers, during the besieging of the legations in 
 Peking in 1900. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 133 
 
 From that time on I was constantly employed as confidential 
 stenographer on the personal staff of the admiral. It was nec- 
 essary to keep secret much of this work, and it was carried 
 on by a clerical force of but five officers and five men, which 
 constituted the personal staff of the "grand old man of the 
 United States Navy." 
 
 He was, in himself, the commander-in-chief, and planned 
 the execution of this tremendous military force in a masterly 
 and an admirable manner. He is the greatest beloved admiral 
 in the navy, and I can see now, in fancy, his clean cut figure, 
 denoting by its every line a gentleman, pacing the deck of his 
 cabin, his white head bowed in deep thought framing the orders 
 that meant life and death to the jackies he loved, in the per- 
 formance of the navy's duty. 
 
 He was an Iowa boy, and it was with profound respect and 
 admiration that I served him for eighteen months, through the 
 trying times of which I shall relate, that added many lines of 
 care to his noble brow. A great man, a busy brain, and a heart 
 true to his country. It is such men as this who serve the public 
 with success and love. In his service I visited nearly all the 
 interesting ports from Australia and New Zealand, the Phil- 
 ippine Islands, China and Japan, north to Siberia. 
 
 If you stop to consider that men serving in a foreign country 
 require a multitude of articles for use, that ships must have 
 coal, stores, and repairs; men die, old ones come home, new 
 ones go out, others get sick, you will find yourself on a train 
 of thought that may develop a crude idea of what the command 
 of so many vessels and men means. Papers for all these things 
 
134 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 must go through the office of the commander-in-chief. The 
 command in question covered the territory between Siberia on 
 the north and Australia on the south, including China, Japan 
 and the Philippines. 
 
 Even though there may be no war in the different foreign 
 countries it is necessary to send war vessels to each port of im- 
 portance occasionally, to represent our nation and insure pro- 
 tection to resident Americans. For this reason, and owing to 
 the disturbed state of affairs in China, it was necessary for Ad- 
 miral Remey's vessels to keep in touch with all the countries 
 named. 
 
 Consider, for instance, the position of the commander-in- 
 chief. His flagship is lying at anchor in Manila Bay. An 
 orderly continually paces to and fro in front of his door, at- 
 tendant upon his call. When the admiral first awakens in the 
 morning, there lie at his desk a pile of cablegrams and tele- 
 grams with other important messages. Before he can dress 
 his orderly will have interrupted him, perhaps, half a dozen 
 times with messages, such as "Sir, the Yorhtown signals for per- 
 mission to get under way." "Sir, the Monadnock signals that 
 the army has signaled her to bombard the trenches of the in- 
 surgents on Cavite viejo." "A telegram, sir" — the army wants 
 a ship to go at once to the relief of troops at some distant 
 point, etc. So it is all day long. Always urgent, always emer- 
 gencies. Almost every minute of his day is taken up with some- 
 thing of national importance. 
 
 Every order of importance must be written and a record 
 kept of it. Most letters must be written in haste. The navy 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 135 
 
 department must be kept thoroughly posted on current events. 
 There never seemed to be quite ships enough to fill the require- 
 ments. It appeared that some officers and men tried harder 
 to keep from doing work than they did to do it. Each man 
 continually wanted something or other, and when taken in bulk 
 their wants were many. 
 
 It was necessary for the admiral to keep up with the move- 
 ments of his vessels. When you consider fifty ships, all 
 moving about, reporting by cable and telegraph, at various 
 strange named ports, it becomes a heavy task in itself. 
 
 With this introduction as a basis, perhaps my readers will 
 appreciate the enormity of the work of the staff of the com- 
 mander-in-chief. There was never any time to play, and often 
 insufficient to perform comfortably the duties required. 
 
 Just at this time, the uprising of the Boxers in China took 
 place, and Rear Admiral Louis Kempff, the senior squadron 
 commander, was sent to take charge of naval affairs in China, 
 in co-operation with the army and navy of the allies. However, 
 it was not long until the situation assumed a more serious as- 
 pect and Admiral Remey concluded to proceed himself with 
 the flagship Brooklyn to the anchorage off Taku, China, the 
 naval base of operation. 
 
 Well I remember the thoughts that stirred my breast at this 
 decision. After over a year's steady cruising in action against 
 the Philippine insurgents, here I was starting upon a new ven- 
 ture the outcome of which only God and time had power to 
 tell. Again, during the brief period of my military service — 
 less than three years, including army experience, I lived in an 
 
136 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 atmosphere reverberating the horrors of war. And now, the 
 startling question stood out grimly before me — were the com- 
 ing years of myj life to be devoted to hostility — to war wath 
 my fellow man ? Was I, instead of soon resuming the peaceful 
 and happy pursuit of building a home in which to spend my 
 declining years, a home where I might be surrounded with 
 friends and loving relatives, the choicest of God's blessings, 
 must I take the opposite course, and, rather than build for my- 
 self, assist to tear down the homes and sacred relations of 
 others ? 
 
 Must our beautiful country, America, just at the age when 
 life was doubly worth living in her boundaries, of necessity, 
 become entangled in war ? If so, it was a sad state, and we 
 should pray to Almighty God that there might be, ready at 
 'hand, a George Washington to take the helm and pilot her 
 through the dangerous reefs and shoals of war into the quiet, 
 unruffled harbor of peace. I did not complain ; and if I found 
 fault, it was only with circumstances, not with men. 
 
 It seems that the experience gained in countless struggles 
 along down the line of past centuries, through which the world 
 has passed, would change somewhat the course of events; but 
 such is not the case; and so we continue in the enlightened 
 twentieth century with war, though modified in effect carried 
 on just the same as thousands of years ago. 
 
 At three fifty o'clock in the afternoon of June 26, 1900, 
 the flagship Brooklyn, laden with three hundred extra marines 
 from Cavite, with field pieces and Colt automatic guns, and 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 137 
 
 stores for three months, weighed anchor and headed for Taku, 
 via Hong Kong and Nagasaki. 
 
 At this time the general situation was as follows : The up- 
 rising of the Boxers, who had the foreign ministers and their 
 legations besieged in Peking, and had killed the German min- 
 ister, besides a number of missionaries, had brought out mili- 
 tary force from the eight powers, respectively, of United States, 
 England, Austria, France, Germany, Italy, Japan and Eussia. 
 
 These powers were represented by troops landed at Taku 
 and marching under the British Admiral Seymour to the relief 
 of Peking, and vessels of war anchored off Taku, the naval 
 base, beside those detailed in the blockading squadron. The 
 war vessels numbered, perhaps, one hundred, including those 
 of all allied powers. 
 
 The following is a copy of the journal of Admiral Seymour's 
 column on the attempt to reach Peking: 
 
 "Admiral Seymour presents his thanks to the foreign ad- 
 mirals for the co-operation of their admirals and men. 
 
 "The British commander-in-chief with a light force was at- 
 tacked twice June 13th; the Boxers were repulsed with heavy 
 losses ; there were none on our side. 
 
 "The fourteenth of June, the train was attacked at Langf ang ; 
 serious attack beaten off, with one hundred Boxers killed and 
 five Italians killed. In the afternoon of the same day, the 
 Boxers attacked the English position at Lofa. Reinforcements 
 sent from the front, Boxers were repulsed, losing one hundred 
 men ; two English wounded. 
 
138 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 "Troops sent ahead to Anting had engagements, thirteen or 
 fourteen. Boxers lost one hundred and seventy-five. ISTo losses 
 on our side. (Railway destroyed.) It was decided on the six- 
 teenth to return to Sangtun to march on Peking by the river. 
 Leaving Langtang, two wagon trains were attacked ; " enemy's 
 loss four hundred to five hundred, our loss six killed and forty- 
 eight wounded. 
 
 "June nineteenth, the wounded were embarked to return to 
 Tien Tsin. The column marched along the river, meeting oppo- 
 sition at every village. After a march on the night of the twenty- 
 third it arrived in front of the arsenal above Tien Tsin, at- 
 tacked and took the arsenal filled with the enemy's supplies of 
 guns and ammunition. We could have held this place several 
 days longer, but, being encumbered by our wounded, we asked 
 for reinforcements from Tien Tsin. Reinforcements arrived 
 on the morning of the twenty-fifth of June. The arsenal was 
 turned over to them. The column arrived at Tien Tsin on the 
 twenty-sixth of June. 
 
 LOSSES OP THE COLUMN UP THE TWENTY-SIXTH OF JUNE. 
 
 Killed. Wounded. 
 
 Americans 4 25 
 
 Austrians 1 1 
 
 English 27 97 
 
 French 1 10 
 
 German 2 62 
 
 Italians 5 3 
 
 Japanese 2 3 
 
 Russians 10 27 
 
70 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 141 
 
 The United States was represented on the water by Rear 
 Admiral Louis KempfT with his flagship, the Newark, in com- 
 mand of Captain B. H. McCalla ; the Castine, Monocacy, York- 
 town and the dispatch vessel Zafiro, and on land by detachments 
 of marines and sailors, in the column of Admiral Seymour, 
 marching to the relief of our representatives in Peking. Cap- 
 tain McCalla, of naval fame, commanded our marines and 
 sailors ashore. On the seventeenth of June, the Chinese forts 
 at Taku fired upon the foreign allied ships anchored inside the 
 bar, with result that the ships attacked and silenced the forts. 
 
 The American ships of war, for diplomatic or other reasons, 
 did not join in this attack but the Monocacy was struck by a 
 stray shot or two. 
 
 Admiral Seymour's column had about this time found it im- 
 practicable to attempt to continue their march on to Peking, 
 owing to strong resistance, and had returned to Tien Tsin, 
 with no slight per cent of casualties. 
 
 The Japanese naval attache at Tien Tsin received from the 
 Japanese minister by a messenger thirteen days on the road, 
 the following: 
 
 "The situation in Peking becomes more and more critical. 
 The Chinese imperial troops bombard the legation day and 
 night. All the detachments defended the legations with all 
 their force. The English, French and Japanese are the only 
 legations left now. Ammunition is nearly exhausted but the 
 ministers hope for relief by the relieving forces." 
 
 The messenger added that all the persons of the legation are 
 at present in the English legation. Provisions are nearly ex- 
 
142 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 hausted and after the first of July there will be no means of 
 procuring them. 
 
 It was deemed by the learned and experienced commanders 
 inexpedient to attempt the rescue with less than sixty thousand 
 men, well armed and equipped. Soldiers were being daily 
 landed at Taku by thousands from all allied nations, and the 
 United States were bringing soldiers to China as fast as trains 
 and steam could accomplish it. 
 
 To us out there in the field, though we were anxious and 
 impatient to get into the fray, it seemed that the George Wash- 
 ington mentioned above had, in fact, taken the helm, in the 
 person of President McKinley. 
 
 In my confidential position there was ample opportunity to 
 observe the undercurrent of diplomacy, both at Taku and in 
 Washington, and the situation was, in my opinion, handled in 
 the most admirable manner. One could feel the extreme care 
 and thought with which this great president was steering the 
 governmental craft, and it was, perhaps, owing to his great- 
 ness, that a terrible international war was averted. 
 
 I am, in politics, a democrat ; but how can one but admire a 
 man, even if he is a republican, who conducts his country so 
 nobly through these dangerous strifes and political intrigues. 
 He was, beyond a doubt, as greatly beloved as any president 
 of our great country and lived himself as he advised others to 
 live. 
 
 I may mention here, that later, when the shocking news of 
 his dastardly assassination reached us on the other side of the 
 world, profound grief cast a gloom over the entire naval and 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 143 
 
 military forces, and even Chinese and Japanese spoke in sor- 
 rowful tones of reverence their regrets and praise of this noble 
 man. Flags were half masted and salutes fired by all ships in 
 the anchorage, while funeral services and prayers were held 
 by all naval and army forces on the other side of the world, 
 as well as those at home, in honor of our cruelly assassinated 
 president. 
 
 Like President Lincoln, McKinley tried to help the lowly, 
 ignorant and helpless colored man — Lincoln, the friend of the 
 negro ; McKinley, the Filipino. Both the friends of everyone ; 
 and I have heard Filipinos denounce, in most forceful words, 
 the traitor who slew his country's sincere friend and leader. 
 
 Arriving on July eighth off Taku, China, the Brooklyn, fly- 
 ing Admiral Remey's flag of rank was greeted with the thunder- 
 ing of many guns ; but they were only. salutes fired in honor of 
 the admiral's arrival. 
 
 Men-of-war were all about us, and the terrific thundering 
 and blaze of their salutes suggested what the scene and confu- 
 sion might be should these great steel monsters turn their 
 powers against each other. Santiago would be as nothing com- 
 pared to them. 
 
 On account of a bar running out from the shore, large ves- 
 sels cannot go closer in than about nine miles of Taku; small 
 gunboats go up the Pei Ho, thirty miles to Tien Tsin. 
 
 On July ninth, our three hundred marines, under command 
 of Colonel Mead, and two battalions of the Ninth Infantry, 
 under command of Colonel Liscum, from the United States 
 army transport Grant, landed at Taku. They left on the 
 
J 44 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVV 
 
 eleventh for Tien Tsin, where they arrived on the same night, 
 and were reinforced by over one hundred marines, under com- 
 mand of Major Waller, United States Marine Corps, who had 
 preceded us from Manila. The only part of Tien Tsin held fry 
 the allied forces was the foreign concession. The Boxers and 
 imperial troops were in the walled city which was strongly for- 
 tified. 
 
 Early on the morning of July 13, 1900, the allied powers 
 attacked the Chinese ; about seven thousand troops all told ; 
 the Americans numbering about one thousand. 
 
 The following report made by a famous colonel of marines 
 
 of the battle of Tien Tsin is considered accurate and fair to all 
 
 parties engaged: 
 
 "Headqttabteks United States Forces, 
 "Tien Tsin, China, July 16, 1900. 
 
 "I left Tongku on July eleventh at about eight fifteen o'clock 
 and arrived at Tien Tsin after midnight. I found Major 
 Waller and his force quartered in the European concession in 
 houses which were nightly under the shell fire of the enemy. 
 Small bodies of the enemy also controlled the street with rifle 
 fire at night, this fire generally beginning at about ten o'clock 
 and lasting until about daylight. 
 
 "Only the foreign concessions were held by the allied forces 
 when I arrived, the French concessions being near the walled 
 city, the English next and the German lowest down the river. 
 The walled city strongly fortified and all other portions of 
 Tien Tsin also strongly fortified, were held by the Chinese 
 imperial troops and the Boxers. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 145 
 
 "Our force took turns with other troops of the alliance in 
 guarding the railway station, which was in an exposed place 
 almost continually under shell fire, and a very dangerous duty. 
 
 "On the twelfth instant at a conference held at the English 
 general's headquarters (Brigadier General A. R. F. Dorward) 
 it was decided to attack the city at about daybreak the thir- 
 teenth, and I was called upon to furnish a quota of one thousand 
 men — our marines, twenty-two officers, three hundred and 
 twenty-six men — and a force of fifteen officers and four hun- 
 dred and thirty men from the Ninth United States Infantry 
 was still at Taku, or en route. 
 
 "At three o'clock in the morning I marched out of barracks 
 with a force of twenty-two officers and three hundred and 
 twenty-six men in four companies A, D, C and F, commanded 
 respectively by First Lieutenant S. D. Butler, Captain C. G. 
 Long, Captain A. R. Davis and Captain B. H. Fuller. Com- 
 pany F was an artillery company with three rapid fire guns 
 and three Colt's automatic guns, and this company was sup- 
 ported by Company D (Captain Long), who was also the com- 
 manding officer of the second battalion of the temporary or- 
 ganization I have with me in China. 
 
 "We marched through the Taku gate by the road leading to 
 the south gate of the walled city in two columns, the Japanese 
 forces being to the right and the English and American forces 
 on the left. The column in which the Americans were, were 
 distributed as follows: Two companies of the Royal Welch 
 Fusileers leading, followed by the marines (infantry and ar- 
 tillery), the English naval artillery, then the English naval 
 
146 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 brigade, and finally the Ninth United States Infantry (four 
 hundred and forty-five officers and men). The road was very 
 heavy for artillery, such as we had, and I do noit advise the 
 naval gun to be used as a field piece until some device is gotten 
 up as a limber, because the trail wheel plows into the ground 
 and the dykes and ditches which were frequently met with ne- 
 cessitated all the united force of two companies to get the guns 
 across, costing much strength which should have been reserved 
 for the fatigue of the battlefield. 
 
 "Our verbal orders (we had no written ones) were to march 
 on a line parallel to the city wall about a thousand' yards in 
 rear and to the southward of the bridge at the south gate and 
 there the commanding officers were to receive their final in- 
 structions. ]STo such meeting, however, was held, and my or- 
 ders for the marines were to advance along the mud wall in a 
 northerly direction with two infantry companies, leaving the 
 artillery company and its infantry support to act in connection 
 with the British field artillery and to open fire at a point where 
 the Chinese had several 4.7 or 6 inch guns mounted which had 
 been particularly obnoxious. We arrived at the south gate 
 about five o'clock a. m. 
 
 "The naval battery of the Terrible, under command of Cap- 
 tain Bailey of the Royal :N~avy, had opened fire on the forts 
 and the guns of the enemy just before our arrival and they 
 were responded to by the enemy vigorously. This battery was 
 so accurate in its fire that every small shell was said to have 
 landed in the place intended for it and at about five forty o'clock 
 in the morning the Chinese magazine was exploded with a shock 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IM THE NAVY 147 
 
 which was almost like an earthquake, and was distinctly felt 
 by all of us who were standing fully one mile and a half from 
 the point of explosion. 
 
 "At about six thirty in the morning I received orders from 
 the British general to support the Royal Welsh Fusileers in 
 an attack on the extreme left, and we crossed the wall in skir- 
 mish line having an extensive swamp to cross. The country 
 was a flat level one, with grave mounds and dykes in great 
 numbers, and these already dug trenches were a very consider- 
 able help to us, as in such an open fire swept plain we would 
 have had difficulty in advancing and would have been com- 
 pelled, with only the bayonet, to throw up hasty entrench- 
 ments, the fire of the Chinese both in artillery and infantry 
 was fearfully accurate, as the casualty list will evidence, and I 
 thank God for the mounds and graves. 
 
 "We advanced by rushes to a line of trenches about eight 
 hundred yards from the enemy. We found that in our front 
 there were very bad swamps and a stream of water which 
 would render it impossible for us to have reached the city at 
 that point, but I believe it was not intended we should advance 
 farther, as the Royal Welsh Fusileers were then in the same 
 skirmish line with us. We reached the advanced position 
 about eight o'clock in the morning. I took one hundred and 
 eighty rounds of ammunition per man with me, one hundred 
 in the belts and eighty in the haversacks. This is not sufficient 
 for an all day fight, and as it grew towards night, I began to 
 be apprehensive of being left in an advanced position iu a fight 
 
148 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 where no prisoners were taken on either side, with only the 
 bayonet to fight with. 
 
 "On the firing line the action was extremely hot and the 
 enemy's fire especially accurate. At about eight thirty in the 
 morning, the enemy appeared in large numbers upon our left, 
 among the grave mounds of the field in which we were, with 
 the evident intention of flanking us. I made a turning move- 
 ment to the left and rear and we drove them away. Later in 
 the day, about two p. m., they again made a flanking effort, 
 but at this time the infantry support of the artillery company 
 was on the mud wall of the city and aided us by cross fire. 
 This company was commanded by Captain C. G. Long. The 
 effort of the enemy proved a failure and we drove them in. 
 
 "We remained in the trenches until about eight o'clock in 
 the evening, when we received an order from the brigadier gen- 
 eral commanding to withdraw, which was probably the most dif- 
 ficult action of the day, since the enemy had so well covered our 
 position that their shots struck crests of the trenches and threw 
 dirt dn our faces, many being hit. I ordered the withdrawal in 
 small parties of eight to ten men to rush from mound to mound, 
 or trench" to trench. I had previously sent the wounded to the 
 rear under particularly unfortunate circumstances. I had also 
 to send one dead officer to the rear. 
 
 "The withdrawal was successful, only one man being hit, and 
 we were soon in safety under the mud wall near the south gats. 
 
 "General Dorward ordered that the troops should sleep upon 
 their arms that night and on the following morning enter the 
 city, the south gate to be blown in by gun cotton. 
 
C/3 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 151 
 
 "The troops had had nothing to eat on the thirteenth save the 
 small luncheon bags, if it may be so called — which each man car- 
 ried in his haversack. It was not expected when we started out 
 that the action would prove so long — but General Dorward, 
 knowing the situation, kindly sent to the reservation for food 
 and other necessaries ; the bivouac proved a success and the men, 
 although very fatigued, were ready for duty. 
 
 "On the fourteenth instant, the south gate having been blown 
 in, we moved into the walled city at about six o'clock a. m. 
 
 "We found the city filled with dead Chinamen and animals. 
 No resistance was made to our occupation in the walled city 
 itself, but an infantry fire was kept up by the Japanese infantry 
 upon the enemy who responded from the suburbs. Since then 
 we have had undisturbed possession of all Tien Tsin. 
 
 "During the day of the thirteenth instant, my force of ma- 
 rines, stationed at the railway station were vigorously attacked 
 and suffered heavily. 
 
 "The conduct of my officers and men I cannot praise too 
 highly. I had them, for the most part, under my personal eye. 
 I especially desire to call your attention to the conduct of First 
 Lieutenant Charles G. Andresen, whose fearless conduct ex- 
 cited the admiration of all; First Lieutenant S. D. Butler, 
 who at great risk of his life, went out of the trench to bring 
 in a wounded man and was shot while doing so; First Lieu- 
 tenant Henry Leonard, my adjutant, who brought First Lieu- 
 tenant Butler in in safety and was dangerously wounded, all 
 conducted themselves well and I cannot commend them too 
 highly. 
 
152 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 "Since the armed force of the Chinese have been driven 
 away, one conference of the representatives of the eight powers 
 has been held with reference to city government, and this con- 
 ference is to meet again tomorrow to elect a president. There 
 is much difficulty in the mixed up condition of affairs and the 
 French representative is the chief one in making regulations 
 difficult. 
 
 "I had almost forgotten to state that, the Russians in force 
 attacked the north side of the city while we were engaged on 
 the south. One part of my force was at the railway station 
 during the battle and were driven back by the shell fire. They 
 did not retire far, however, and they guarded what they were 
 sent to guard. 
 
 "I regret to report the death of Captain A. R. Davis who was 
 killed at my side in the advanced trench. He was killed al- 
 most instantly. I had his body brought in with the two 
 wounded and he is buried here in Tien Tsin, his grave being 
 marked. 
 
 "This was all I could do. Colonel E. H. Liscum, command- 
 ing the Ninth United States Infantry, was killed in the action, 
 being twice wounded — once through the lungs and again 
 through the foot. He is buried here in Tien Tsin. 
 
 "It being impossible to bring in all the dead, they were buried 
 in the trenches where they fell. 
 
 "All the forces engaged spent the night of the thirteenth 
 on the ground near the south gate, provisions and water hav- 
 ing been sent for by the British brigadier general command- 
 ing. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 153 
 
 "During these stirring and anxious times, the condition of 
 the besieged legations in Peking was terrible. Continually 
 under fire, expecting any moment the entrance of a Chinese 
 army too powerful for resistance. A force too small to insure 
 long protection worked and excited to a high pitch of anxiety, 
 with prospect of early running out of ammunition and food, 
 they simply lived for weeks in an atmosphere of hell. Faithful 
 Chinese were sent through the lines in numbers, with several 
 copies of each message, perhaps only one in half a dozen ever 
 reaching us, praying to us at Taku to hurry assistance and 
 rescue. These noble commanders, doing all in their power, 
 were driven often to weep at the pathos flowing in each mes- 
 sage. It seemed to me as I copied these telegrams, that they 
 were from the dead, and were, perhaps, the last words Minister 
 Conger and others would ever write. This great man and his 
 fellows in trouble, carried themselves in a brave manner, and I 
 believe it is due largely to Minister Conger's brains and brav- 
 ery, as well as those of his defenders that they lived to see "old 
 glory" wave over Peking's wall." 
 
 In the simple, brief, descriptive words of the following tele- 
 gram, I will lift the curtain disclosing the end, leaving to my 
 readers' imaginative power the painting of the scene of rescue. 
 
 "Tien Tsln, August 16, 1900. 
 "Captain Wise, Tongku, China. 
 
 "Following official message, from front, just received here: 
 
 ' 'Early fourteenth arrived Peking, attacked eastern side 
 
 of city with guns. Enemy on wall resisted strongly during the 
 
 night. Japanese blew in two gates in the east wall, Tartar 
 
154 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 city, then entered the city; the other forces entered gate of 
 Chinese city. Guard was sent, at once to legations; joined at 
 legations. All survivors at legations well. Japanese loss over 
 one hundred killed and wounded. Enemy's loss four hundred 
 killed.' The above telegram came from the Japanese. Our 
 losses are not known, but if any probably much less than the 
 Japanese. Fighting is said to be going on in the city which is 
 said to be burning. This latter information from British 
 headquarters. Everything quiet at Tien Tsin. 
 
 "(Signed) W. H. McGeaitn." 
 
 A friend of mine, who visited Peking shortly after the re- 
 lease of the legations, and by favor received access to the pal- 
 ace of the emperor, who had fled at the approach of the allied 
 armies, gives the following description of the emperor and em- 
 press dowager's quarters: 
 
 "I have just returned after spending a great part of the day 
 in the imperial palace. Having asked permission of the Jap- 
 anese, Colonel Sheiba told me that General Wilson and the 
 American commissioner, Mr. Rankin, were going to pay a visit 
 today, and that it would be a good opportunity for ma to go 
 with them. General Wilson kindly allowed me to join his 
 party, and my inspection proved most interesting. My pre- 
 vious visit had been on the day of the triumphal march through 
 to the accompaniment of blaring brass bands and tramping iron 
 shod feet ; but today we had an opportunity of wandering about 
 at our leisure and of visiting sections of the palace from which 
 we had previously been excluded. 
 
 "The private apartments of the emperor, which had been 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 155 
 
 sealed up were opened to us, and also the still more splendid 
 suite belonging to the dowager empress. 'Peace, Harmony, 
 Repose' was the legend in gold letters over the entrance to the 
 emperor's suite. There was a jarring note in the comparative 
 vulgarity of a number of European ornaments and the repose 
 must have been sadly disturbed if the immense number of 
 clocks there were kept going. I counted sixteen clocks in one 
 small room. Two of them were working models of horizontal 
 steam engines, possibly a present from some foreign 'devil' on 
 the lookout for contracts or concessions. There was a wonder- 
 ful mechanical toy on the floor of his bedroom, a silver gilt 
 elephant harnessed to a car on which were many little figures. 
 The harness and back of the elephant were richly studded with 
 diamonds and rubies. His bed was comparatively plain and of 
 the choicest silk. Everything about the room was in order and 
 there was not the slightest sign of neglect or decay which was 
 so prevalent as in other parts of the palace. 
 
 "The dowager empress' suite was the finesit of all. Three 
 sets of rooms with three court-yards adjoined each other. The 
 rooms were fitted with large windows of thick plate glass so 
 that one could look right through. There was a rich profusion 
 of the most lovely ornaments everywhere. The beauty of ex- 
 quisitely carved jade ornaments surpassing everything else. I 
 could feel my pockets aching in gaping longing. The old lady 
 does not appear to have been so severely stricken with the clock 
 mania as the emperor, and contents herself with about half a 
 dozen in each room. 
 
156 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 "After wandering about the 'garden of the white jade flower' 
 as it is called, I mounted a sort of rocky eminence, on the top 
 of which is a little summer-house-like pagoda. The comp- 
 troller of the household told me it was a favorite spot with the 
 emperor, where he often went in the evening or early morning. 
 From this point no monarch in the world could look upon a 
 more beautiful prospect — roofs of gold-like tiles or exquisite 
 deep blue and green vistas of carved white marble terraces, 
 temples and domes, and a veil of foliage which at a short dis- 
 tance hides all the squalor of itihe streets, and stretches like a 
 level forest toward the western hills altogether a most remark- 
 able sight, which it would be hard to beat. 
 
 "Peking is a beautiful city as seen from any high point of 
 view, most beautiful of all from where the emperor sees it." 
 
 On the morning of June fourteenth, after the battel of Tien 
 Tsin, I visited the city on official business, finding the streets 
 literally covered with Chinese dead. The canals, from which 
 allied soldiers dipped their drinking water, flowed putrid with 
 the carcasses of the dead. One could walk, in many places, 
 some distance on the dead bodies. Mutilation in every con- 
 ceivable form multiplied the horrors of the dead. Hundreds 
 of dogs feasted upon human flesh. 
 
 On passing up the Pei Ho river en route to Tien Tsin the 
 small tug was fired upon. I heard several little hissing noises, 
 but, though I had heard bullets before, thought they were noises 
 made by the old "rattle-trap" machinery of the tug, until fin- 
 ally one struck in the pilot house just in front of me. Then I 
 felt no uncertainty. We were being fired upon. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 157 
 
 Lying low behind the gunwale of the tug, six of us opened 
 fire upon a small band of probably twenty Chinese, firing at us 
 from behind one of the Chinese above ground cave-like graves. 
 For about twenty minutes we had it pretty lively, and finally 
 routed them. Only one of our party was hit — a slight flesh 
 wound in the left forearm. How the Chinese fared is not 
 definitely known. This was indeed a narrow escape for those 
 of us in the tug, as other Chinese were seen running from the 
 neighboring village to assist their comrades, as quick as they 
 could get in range, and would soon have had the tug between a 
 deadly cross fire, had we not worked quickly with the rifles and 
 disconcerted the enemy for a few moments, managed to get 
 the tug up the river out of range before the Chinese were suffi- 
 ciently reinforced to charge. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 VISIT TO AUSTRALIA CROSSING THE EQUATOR SIDNEY MEL- 
 BOURNE A CHANCE ACQUAINTANCE ARRIVAL OF THE 
 
 PRINCE OF WALES THE GREAT PROCES- 
 SION AT GOVERNMENT HOUSE. 
 
 o 
 
 THE VISIT IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 N" THE MORNING of April 9, 1901, the big tropical sun 
 
 blazed over the low range of mountains back of Manila, 
 
 and pouring his scorching rays down upon the flagships 
 
 Brooklyn and Kentucky, made those great iron monsters seem 
 
 like heated ovens to those of us who belonged between their 
 
 decks. 
 
 The water in the bay lay dead, like an immense sheet of 
 glass, reaching for twenty miles to Corregidor at the entrance 
 of the harbor where Admiral Dewey sailed in to victory three 
 ' years before. 
 
 There was a tremendous amount of work to be done that day 
 in the office of Rear Admiral Remey, commander-in-chief, U. 
 S. naval force on Asiatic station, in preparation for departure 
 on the morrow for Australia to which place he had received 
 telegraphic orders to proceed with his flagship to participate 
 in the celebrations in connection with the opening of the first 
 Australian parliament. 
 
 I knew the day would be a trying one, because the business 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 161 
 
 of the greatest naval fleet ever under the command of an Amer- 
 ican admiral was to he turned over temporarily to the senior 
 squadron commander, Rear Admiral Kempff. 
 
 When I entered the office my head was throbbing and felt 
 heavy with the fever of the Philippines, and occasionally I 
 found it necessary to stop work a moment when a fit of dizzi- 
 ness threatened to render me unconscious and subject me to 
 the jeers of my fellow clerks for falling off my chair in a faint, 
 as a girl might do. 
 
 Typewriters were clicking about me like a dozen press tele- 
 graph instruments. To be more explicit, I was ill; but the 
 knowledge of our early departure for a better climate kept me 
 up and gave me courage for work that otherwise I could not 
 have done. 
 
 Well, we did all that was required, and at ten o'clock the 
 nest morning the Brooklyn weighed anchor and sailed out of 
 Manila Bay, down through the southern group of the Philip- 
 pines, bound for Sidney, IsTew South Wales, Australia. All 
 hands were much pleased with the prospect, and I especially; 
 for it was then over two years since I had seen much of civili- 
 zation. 
 
 Though the scenery in the Philippine Islands is very beau- 
 tiful, it interested me but little, as they had long before become 
 an old story. 
 
 The flagship took what is known as the inland route, which 
 lies through a chain of small islands the entire distance to 
 Australia, and, to one who had not already gorged himself with 
 such scenery, it was a delightful voyage. Along the northeast 
 
162 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 coast of Australia our route lay between the mainland and 
 great barrier reef, which is considered very dangerous, even 
 when an expert pilot is carried. 
 
 The most interesting feature of this trip to me was on the 
 equator. At dusk of the evening before crossing the line, King 
 Neptune of the sea sent a messenger on board, with a letter 
 to the a dmi ral, announcing that he would board us the next day 
 to take command of the ship, and, amdd a great clattering of tin 
 pans and phosphoric display on the water, the messenger dis- 
 appeared. 
 
 For the benefit of those who are not familiar with this ancient 
 sea custom, I will remark that when a vessel crosses the equator 
 all hands on board, who have not crossed before, are initiated 
 by sailors in various ridiculous disguises, who represent them- 
 selves as King Neptune and his court, and it is customary for 
 the ship to be turned over temporarily to the command of King 
 Neptune. After once being initiated you are exempt from fur- 
 ther molestation. 
 
 On Sunday, April fourteenth, we reached the equator, and 
 all hands prepared themselves for a ducking. King Neptune 
 and his court arrived on time, and, with great pomp and cere- 
 mony, marched aft on the quarter deck to the admiral and cap- 
 tain and demanded that the Brooklyn be turned over to the 
 temporary command of Neptune, king of the sea. The dress 
 and antics of these sparingly clothed inhabitants of the sea were 
 amusing, and in the most polite terms the admiral and captain 
 gave carte blanche, so far as sport was concerned. Neptune 
 immediately ordered all prisoners released, and all men put on 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 163 
 
 the first conduct class. Preparations having been made early 
 in the morning, the fun started at once. 
 
 In a loud voice the official crier of the court commanded : 
 
 "Rear Admiral George C. Remey, commander-in-chief, 
 United States naval force on Asiatic station, come before the 
 court." 
 
 The admiral announced that he had crossed the line before, 
 and was excused. 
 
 "Captain F. W. Dickins, United States navy, commanding 
 United States flagship Brooklyn, come before the court." 
 
 Also excused. 
 
 Then the officers were called in order of rank and so on down 
 to the crew. 
 
 I was perched on a gun turret congratulating myself on the 
 fact that my name appeared very low on the alphabetical list, 
 as I figured they would be tired of the sport by the time they 
 came to the S's and that I might thus escape; but the ofiicial 
 crier happened to look up and see me, so it failed. Calling my 
 name loudly he ordered me before the court, and two pilot fish 
 (policemen) immediately swept down upon me with orders to 
 bring me before the court, dead or alive. I had no time to rid 
 myself of clothing but was hustled before the court in no gentle 
 manner ; one of the pilot fish holding my collar and the other 
 amusing himself by pounding me over the head with a stuffed 
 club. 
 
 King ISTeptune asked me if I had ever been in his domain be- 
 fore, and I replied in the negative. He then commanded that 
 I be shaved, doctored and ducked ; which sentence was immedi- 
 
164 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 ately carried out. I was placed on a stool and my face plastered 
 with a conglomerate mess, the ingredients of which I am un- 
 familiar ; then a wooden razor of gigantic proportions was drawn 
 over my face, taking some lather and a little skin with it. 
 "Next, I was asked if I had ever been ill, but a happy thought 
 struck me, and I replied with a nod in the negative, so escaped 
 the mouthful of flour, coal dust and salt intended ; then, with 
 out any warning, I was toppled backwards into a tank of water, 
 where the fish-in-the-tank proceeded to amuse themselves by 
 ducking me and beating me over the head with stuffed clubs 
 until the next fellow appeared. When I was finally turned 
 loose, it was but a sorry figure I made indeed ; however, I have 
 a certificate signed by King Neptune himself, so am hereafter 
 qualified to take my place either on his staff or as a fish-in- 
 the-tank, and entitled to take my revenge on any land-lubber 
 that may fall in my hands under like circumstances. 
 
 At four o'clock in the afternoon of April twenty-fifth the 
 Brooklyn steamed through the narrow cliff-bound gate into 
 the harbor of Sidney. From the outside one sees nothing but 
 high rocks, but on passing through the view changes from sky 
 and water to beautiful parks and suburban residences sur- 
 rounded by green rolling lawns, where beautiful flowers and 
 trees vie with fine architecture in the decoration and construc- 
 tion of one of the most interesting landscapes I have ever seen. 
 Further up the bay in the distance looms the cathedral towers, 
 domes and buildings of a magnificent city, of approximately 
 500,000 inhabitants, a bustling city of business which leads 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 165 
 
 Australia in commerce and industry, and is the first city in the 
 colonies. 
 
 Our entrance was witnessed by hundreds of people on the 
 beach and in small boats, who cheered lustily for the Yankees 
 and appeared to be greatly pleased with the appearance of our 
 great fighting machine. Their welcome did not stop here, for 
 all those who went on shore met only with true courtesy and 
 hospitality. 
 
 As the ship had only called at Sidney for coal before con- 
 tinuing on her voyage 'to Melbourne, the capital, she proceeded 
 at once to fill her bunkers. 
 
 The captain's writer and myself obtained ten days leave of 
 absence w T ith permission to go by train overland to Melbourne, 
 and left on the evening of April thirtieth. We received the 
 courtesy of half-fare tickets from the government, which owns 
 and operates the railroads. 
 
 Our overland trip will be long remembered as one of the 
 most pleasant days of our Australian visit. The run takes 
 about seventeen hours, and we found the English side-door com- 
 partment trains very comfortable. The little noisy engine car- 
 ried us through rocky ravines, fertile valleys, past large sheep 
 stations and gold mines at the "terrific" rate of thirty miles an 
 hour — terrific for Australians who, unlike we Yankees, prefer 
 to travel at a moderate speed and kill no one rather than reach 
 a destination quickly. We received every courtesy from the 
 trainmen, who like those in Japan could teach our American 
 railway employes considerable in the way of attention to trav- 
 elers. 
 
166 AROUND THB WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 A very amusing incident occurred during my overland trip 
 with the captain's writer, which I will relate here. It will be 
 remembered that we had been away from civilization for over 
 a year and a half, and that our judgment was, consequently, 
 not to be relied upon in social matters. In fact, since we had 
 not seen nor talked with a white girl for many months, we were 
 somewhat in the position of the lovesick girl, who said "Any 
 dude'l do." 
 
 Tad was a good fellow, a thorough chum, and clever, but he 
 had a very, very annoying habit — in every affair in which we 
 participated he tried to get the best of me. This was all right 
 in itself, and interesting, but for one thing — I had the same 
 habit ! 
 
 ]STow, I cannot say that I was really very fond of Tad, but 
 when with him a certain spirit of contest was always preva- 
 lent, which gave more than a common interest to the affair in 
 hand. The usual affairs in hand concerned young ladies. 
 
 The vessel having touched at Sidney for coal, Tad quietly 
 sent in an application for ten days' leave of absence "with per- 
 mission to proceed by train overland to Melbourne, rejoining 
 the ship at that place." Tad knew I was employed on the staff 
 of the comm ancler-in-chief , but hoped that I might not see his 
 application. However, I did see it, and "quietly" put in one 
 like it. They were granted. 
 
 Two days later as I was buying my ticket for the 7 p. m. 
 train I felt a touch on my shoulder and turning saw Tad stand- 
 ing in line, evidently for the same purpose as myself. He col- 
 ored, but taking the bull by the horns in his customary fashion, 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 167 
 
 laughed and shaking hands with me proposed that we make it a 
 party of two. This was agreeable to me, so we were soon sitting 
 in a private compartment — having bribed the guard 'to admit no 
 one else — sampling some Manila cigars I had brought with me, 
 while the fussy little engine thundered away toward Melbourne. 
 
 Tad thought I had a little the best of him thus far and 
 warned me to look out for myself in future. I rather enjoyed 
 his discomfiture and did not spare him in the least, buti pro- 
 ceeded to carefully explain the improbability of his ever being 
 •able to get the best of me, etc. 
 
 We had about the most beautiful compartment in the train — 
 our uniforms no doubt assisted us in obtaining the favor — and 
 were very comfortable until about eleven o'clock when the 
 guard came to the door and asked if we would not like a hamper 
 of food. Now, that was just what I was wishing for at the mo- 
 ment, so, giving him some money, I requested him to "hump 
 himself." Tad remarked that it was not necessary to cripple 
 the man for life just because I was hungry, that he didn't think 
 I really intended to eat the hump. This remark seemed foolish 
 to me, so it was simply ignored. 
 
 Presently the guard returned with a full basket of provisions 
 — and a young lady ! Not in the basket, but behind the guard, 
 and she stood a full head higher than he, as I could see over 
 his cap one of the most interesting faces I saw in Australia. 
 Taking him by both arms she lifted him bodily to one side 
 and stepped into the compartment, bowed very low and ''begged 
 pardon, but did we own the whole compartment ?" I suggested 
 that, if she was looking for the owner of the compartment, per- 
 
168 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 haps there was some mistake, that she should call at the gen- 
 eral railway offices in Sidney. 
 
 The only apparent reply she made was to toss a fifty pound 
 telescope at me, which I verily believe would have tumbled me 
 to the floor had I not had presence of rniind to bow very low + o 
 her and raise my cap, allowing the grip to pass completely over 
 my head. 
 
 She laughed and was preparing to dump the rest of her nu- 
 merous boxes on Tad, who as lying on a divan, when he arose 
 to the occasion and gave the required bow and welcome. For 
 some reason Tad and I suddenly became very attentive and, 
 with the very best grace our shaking knees would permit, wel- 
 comed her to our compantment and to a share of our dinner. 
 
 She graciously accepted, and, with our assistance, removed 
 her long, manish coat, and hat. Then Tad stood like a fool, 
 his eyes almost starting out of his head, his mouth open, star- 
 ing like a maniac at the most magnificent young woman I ever 
 saw or hope to see. Full six feet, if an inch, straight as a 
 isoldier, head up, shoulders well back, heels together (I guess), 
 her great dark blue eyes sparkling and flashing with amusement 
 at Tad's idiotic actions. I don't think she was laughing at 
 me! In fact Tad made a regular donkey of himself. I don't 
 remember just what I did — so busy looking at her, you know, 
 but I know Tad looked like a fool! Perhaps I looked even 
 worse than he. 
 
 She must have weighed one hundred and eighty pounds but 
 her figure was so symmetrical, so graceful and pleasing to the 
 eye, that one would not really have believed it upon a casual 
 
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 rs 3 
 
 o 
 
 p 
 
 3 -a 
 
 3 n> 
 
 X" cr 
 
 3 - 1 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 171 
 
 glance. Trying to describe her as she looked there under the 
 gaslight, would be, indeed, rain; but I will say that she re- 
 minded me of a great wild animal while she looked a most mag- 
 nificently sweet young woman. 
 
 She was kind and allowed us to admire her for a few mo- 
 ments before a word was spoken, then, with a perfectly mur- 
 dering smile, she said, "Gentleman, I trust you will not think 
 me altogether a heathen; and I am very grateful, indeed, for 
 your kind hospitality. My name is Tui Muhr, a half blood 
 native of New Zealand, and I am traveling alone for pleasure. 
 I saw you two gentlemen through the window as the train drew 
 up and asked the guard to show me into your compartment, 
 as I recognized 'the American uniform, and being what you 
 call in the United States a 'chum girl,' besides having a great 
 regard for Yankees, I just came right in and we may make an 
 agreeable party." 
 
 Now, there's where I say Tad did a very, very dirty trick. 
 He cooly stepped in front of me, took all the regard for Yan- 
 kees, etc., to himself, and appropriated the girl. 
 
 I gave him a dig in the ribs as a reminder that I was still on 
 the train but only received a kick on the shin in reply, while 
 he seated the lady in one of the two chairs at a small table in the 
 compartment and took the other himself. I did not know 
 whether to go out and rattle the pump handle, lay down and 
 go to sleep or sw r ear. So I did a little of the first and last, 
 sleep being out of the question. 
 
 If you had seen the way Tad "chawed" and fumed over that 
 girl it would have made you spend the next month out in the 
 
172 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 woods hate'n yourself for bein' a man. Well, sir, he made a 
 regular lobster out of himself! But, what made the whole 
 affair worse, she seemed to like it ! 
 
 I couldn't stand that kind of business long, so, as I said 
 before, I went out to rattle the pump handle and swear a little. 
 Well, I found the guard and gave him a half crown to come 
 in, in a few moments, and tell Tad that an English officer 
 wanted him in the forward part of the train. It worked ; for 
 Tad wanted greatly to show that he was known and was of 
 some importance on the train. That was always his weakness, 
 and I could usually catch him with such bait. 
 
 As soon as he had left the compartment, I entered, and took 
 the vacant chair. Putting on my best smile, I quietly took my 
 bearings, gauged the distance, and slowly raising my eyes to 
 hers, fired and waited for the explosion. There was none. In 
 fact, she seemed to like it, for she never wavered, and for a 
 moment there was a terrible current of electricity passing be- 
 tween us. Those great eyes seemed to draw me completely 
 into them, into another world where all was strange and beau- 
 tiful, sweet and true, and where dandelions, bum-lions and lob- 
 sters grew by the roadside! 
 
 When she finally let up on me and I got part of my breath 
 back, I opened up the whole battery, using armor piercing shell 
 and double charges of powder all in this* suggestion — "Say, 
 Tui, if you are in for it, we'll get off at the next station, catch 
 the parson when he opens the door to let out the cat, and get 
 him to marry up before Tabby can "scat." 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 178 
 
 A string of laugh rippled out of her pretty mouth like the 
 scale of B-flat as played on a xylophone, and she tossed that 
 beautiful silken black head back, for all the world like a wild 
 animal, displaying the whitest, soft, round throat imaginable, 
 and I noticed there were three tiny wrinkles in it. ISTow, I 
 like pretty throats and any girl with wrinkles in her throat 
 could, at that time, keep her secrets up my sleeve. 
 
 Well, I saw three wrinkles, and then she piped down and told 
 me that Tad had offered the same thing ! And she had half a 
 notion to get off at the next station and marry both of us ! 
 
 I smiled and felt positively happy as I said: "Why, Tui, 
 Tad couldn't marry you, he has a wife at home !" 
 
 TJmph! She didn't laugh. She looked rather angry, and 
 her eyes snapped and glistened like a cat's before breakfast. 
 
 Just then Tad returned and in the most quiet manner pos- 
 sible said that I could go now, and that he would "Take the 
 chair, please." 
 
 I was preparing an argument on the question, when Miss 
 Dick, as she told us she was nicknamed, said to me : "Say, Fat- 
 tie, I rather like you, and you are not married so, will you 
 please sit still and let me help you to a bit of chicken % Hr. 
 Tad is no doubt sleepy by this time." 
 
 I replied that I was not married, and that I was sure Tad 
 really needed sleep, as he had been up very much at night 
 recently. Tad looked at me "real cross," and I am not sure, 
 but I think, possibly, he swore. He saw he was out of it and 
 proved himself really a good fellow; he gave it up, and go- 
 ing over to the divan laid down, actually going to sleep. 
 
174 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 By the time he began to snore "Dick" and I were well ac- 
 quainted; she told me all about her home in New Zealand, 
 about her travels, etc. ; and I told her 'most all I knew of 
 America and other countries I had visited. She was the j oi- 
 liest chum I ever met. 
 
 She had traveled considerable, and her conversation .proved 
 so interesting that hours passed by unnoticed. One would not 
 expect a half blood cannibal to be so engaging. 
 
 Well ! In the morning we parted, Dick going on some branch 
 line to visit a relative. She did not give me her address but 
 said she would write soon. 
 
 Tad and I had a good time in Melbourne during our vaca- 
 tion but never for even a moment was Dick's face out of my 
 mind. 
 
 We returned on board ship and you can imagine my surprise. 
 I had no letter from Dick but Tad came running across the 
 deck shortly after our arrival with a letter from her and 
 laughed in my face. He showed me the name, and it was from 
 Dick. She had written to him and not to me! Nor had she 
 even mentioned my name in her letter. 
 
 I told him she must have mixed the names and intended to 
 write me but he said if I wasn't so egotistical I might be able 
 to understand that the girl could be struck on him instead of 
 me. This sounded plausible, so I made no reply but asked very 
 meekly if I might see the letter. He said he would see me in 
 Manila first, and went his way. 
 
 Well, I felt pretty bad but kept a a stiff upper lip." That 
 night he came to me and asked for a couple of Manila cigars to 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVV 175 
 
 send to a friend in Melbourne. It suddenly occurred to nie 
 that Dick had requested me to send her some cigars after she 
 wrote, as she expected when I last saw her, so I said nothing, 
 but went to my office and selected two large ones which were 
 wrapped in tin foil. Carefully taking off the wrapper from 
 one of them, I prepared a note to fit under it around the cigar, 
 as follows: "Whoever opens this cigar, please give this note 
 to Miss Tui Muhr at once." In the note I said : "Dear Dick : 
 Tad heard from you, I did not. Did you intend to write to 
 the fellow who is married and who slept, or was it to me whom 
 you called Tattie V If mistake, please wire at once." To this 
 I signed my name, then putting the note around the cigar care- 
 fully replaced the wrapper and gave the two cigars to Tad. 
 
 The next day I received the following telegram: 
 
 "Mistake, sorry. Come at once without fail if only for a 
 day. Lots love. (Sgd) Tui." 
 
 I went, without permission to leave the ship, well know- 
 ing that the punishment would probably be to serve a term in a 
 cell in chains on bread and water upon my return; but what 
 did I care then ! 
 
 Well, that visit will never be out of my mind. It was b r > 
 far the happiest two days of my life. She met me at the train 
 with a carriage; we went driving. In the afternoon we went 
 shooting and I had the pleasure of seeing a woman shoot at a 
 hundred yards distance, a rabbit running full speed. She seldom 
 missed quail on the wing. There seemed a thousand things she 
 could do that girls do not usually perform. She could play the 
 piano as well as she could shoot. She said she loved me, and, at 
 
176 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 the time, I believed her. She may, or may not have, but she said 
 so and proved it by her sensible and honest friendship, and I 
 would like much to spend another two such innocently happy 
 days. 
 
 I left her without either of us promising to write. What 
 was the use \ ISTo, we decided to retain only the unsullied mem- 
 ory of those two happy days ; to keep in the brain away from 
 all contact with the world the memory of it all; to bring back 
 in dull days when we are old and, perhaps, friendless this 
 thought, to turn it over, and smile at the possession of one little 
 secret, the purest of the pure, that is hid away from all else 
 but our own hearts. 
 
 Do I know where she is ? !N~o. I do not wish to know. Well, 
 I got the best of Tad ! 
 
 Arriving in the capital about 2 p. m. the nest day, we 
 at once looked for lodgings and found, as usual, the unexpect- 
 ed, — that on account of the celebrations and the visit of the 
 Duke and Duchess of Cornwall and York, the price of lodg- 
 ing and food had gone up to about five times the usual rates ; 
 whereas, the usual rate for board and lodging for people in our 
 station of life was one pound, ten shillings, or about $7.50 
 per week, it had risen to nearly six pounds, or about $30. 
 However, after considerable trouble, we managed to find a 
 place in which the people were somewhat retired and had not 
 tumbled to the boom, where we obtained board and lodging 
 for two pounds a week each, and it proved very good ; but the 
 lady offered us three pounds the next day to move. [Not us ! 
 We had paid our money and proposed to stay, and stay we did. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 177 
 
 Melbourne is a much better laid-out city than Sydney, and 
 cleaner, with broad streets and modern improvements, but 
 hardly so large as Sydney. It was literally packed with peo- 
 ple. Flags, arches and street decorations met the eye every- 
 where. At night the decorations were even more beautiful. 
 Large sums of money had been expended for illuminating with 
 colored electric lights many of the public buildings, and every- 
 where one turned a profusion of beautiful designs and colors 
 were displayed. 
 
 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF MELBOURNE. 
 
 Public Library } Museum, and National Gallery '\ — This noble 
 institution, of which Victorians are justly proud, is situated 
 in Swanston street, between Lonsdale and Latrobe streets, and 
 is well worth a visit. It is not more than half a mile distant 
 from the Minder's street or Prince's railway street, and is 
 best reached by the Swanston street tram. It comprises a 
 magnificent public library, open daily except Sundays, Christ- 
 mas day and Good Friday, from 10 a. m. to 10 p. m. ; the na- 
 tional gallery of paintings, sculpture, etc., and the museum, 
 both of which are closed at 5 p. m. A day may be well spent 
 in this valuable institution; but anything less than an after- 
 noon will give the visitor a very imperfect idea of the im- 
 mense collection of literature, works of art and scientific speci- 
 mens gathered in its numerous galleries. 
 
 Exhibition Building and Aquarium. — Although the main 
 purpose of the Exposition building was served in 18S8, when 
 it was built to receive the world's display of art and manu- 
 factures, it has since been put to a variety of uses, the latest 
 
178 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 being that of a straight parliament house. Its splendid sport 
 arena makes it the favorite spot of athletic gatherings, while 
 the extent of its spacious hall readily accommodates four or 
 five times as many people as any other building in Melbourne. 
 In connection with it the trustees have a magnificent organ 
 in the main hall, and in one of the annexes have established an 
 aquarium, in which there is a most interesting collection of 
 live seals, alligators, fish, birds, etc. The view from the ex- 
 hibition dome is one of the sights of the city. 
 
 Parliament House. — Their halls of legislation, familiarly 
 spoken of as the "House," at the top of Bourke street, present 
 one of the leading architectural features of the city. The im- 
 posing approach by a flight of about twenty steps to the grand 
 colonnade, which extends across the whole of the front, at the 
 present time, gives the remainder of the structure a somewhat 
 stunted effect, but it must be remembered that the building 
 was still incomplete. When the lofty dome provided for in 
 the design is added, the ensemble will leave little to be desired, 
 and the Victorian House of Parliament will be probably the 
 finest architectural masterpiece in Australia. 
 
 Town Hall. — This elegant structure is in the very heart of 
 the city, where its lofty tower is not only an acceptable break 
 to the monotony of its purely business surroundings, but its 
 clocks serve a useful, practical purpose, for the thousands who 
 daily hurry along the crowded streets to the railway station. 
 In addition to the offices, the noble hall is the most convenient 
 and popular concert room in the city, as well as being the 
 largest, excepting the exhibition. At the town hall, his wor- 
 
Principal Street in Melbourne. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 181 
 
 ship, the mayor, receives persons of distinction, and acts as 
 the city's host when special courtesies have to be extended to 
 representatives or distinguished visitors. 
 
 General Postoffice. — In this fine building extensive and im- 
 portant public business is transacted. The money order busi- 
 ness is transacted in a building in an adjacent block owing 
 to the excessive amount of work passing through the limited 
 space of the postoffice department. The extensive mail room 
 on the occasion of a rush of work is thronged with a large staff 
 of mail sorters, whose energies are taxed to the utmost to com- 
 ply with the exacting demands of the public. Both the postal 
 department and the telephone exchange are well worth visit- 
 ing. 
 
 The Mint. — The Melbourne branch of the royal mint is an 
 interesting place to visit. Next to doing it yourself, one of 
 the most engaging sights is that of seeing other people "coin- 
 ing money," and the operations at this establishment are both 
 instructive and interesting. Proper precautions surround ad- 
 mission, but eligible people can obtain permission by writing- 
 two days in advance to the deputy master of the mint, who 
 will fix the day and hour of the visit. 
 
 The Law Courts are in the same neighborhood and are 
 reached by the same tram. To the legal fraternity this fine 
 block of buildings possess a special interest, but lay visitors 
 will also find the courts well worth a visit. The outlook from 
 the dome commands a splendid view of the suburbs and bay. 
 
 The Custom House is convenient to the clocks. On a busy 
 day the spacious and elegant "Long Room,'' with its numer- 
 
182 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 ous staff and crowd of bustling mercantile clerks doing their 
 shipping business, affords some idea of the magnitude of the 
 trade of the port, which is practically focused in this depart- 
 ment. Here also the excise branch of customs work is con- 
 ducted. 
 
 The Fish Market. — The very fine buildings of the fish and 
 produce market are not only a distinct ornament to the part of 
 the city in which they are located, but embody the latest ideas 
 of a market for a large city. Sales are conducted daily by a 
 limited number of authorized salesmen, through whose hands 
 pass the fish, game, oyster and wild fowl business of Melbourne. 
 Adjoining the fish market are the city corporation freezing 
 works and produce stores. Here the rabbits, poultry, etc., in- 
 tended for exportation are frozen, and kept in cool chambers 
 preparatory to shipment. The buildings and machinery were 
 erected by the Melbourne city council, who control them. 
 
 The Melbourne Athenaeum., which was at one time known 
 as the Mechanics' Institute, is the leading reading room and 
 lending library of Melbourne, and for a small subscription 
 provides valuable accommodation for its patrons. The large 
 hall is much used for entertainments and the smaller rooms 
 for reading. 
 
 The Stock Exchange, where the share-broking business of 
 the metropolis is transacted, is a very fine building. In con- 
 nection with it is conducted the Exchange club, whose members 
 include many professional and mercantile gentlemen. 
 
 Hotels and Boarding Establishments are too numerous to 
 attempt to enumerate; suffice it to say that Melbourne and 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 183 
 
 suburbs abound with comfortable establishments, varied in 
 their accommodation to meet the circumstances of their guests. 
 A shilling advertisement in a newspaper will always command 
 replies to inquiries for accommodation. 
 
 Banks; — There is no lack of financial institutions in Mel- 
 bourne, and the buildings in which their business is transact- 
 ed are among the finest of the city. They are for the most 
 part located on Collins street ; the National Bank and the Bank 
 of Victoria and Australian Deposit and Mortgage, between 
 Swanston and Elizabeth streets; the Union, Co mm ercial, 
 Royal, English, Scottish and Australian, and the Bank of New 
 South Wales, between Elizabeth and Queen streets; the Bank 
 of Australasia and London Bank, between Queen and Mar- 
 ket streets; the Colonial Bank on Elizabeth street, corner of 
 Little Collins street, and the Bank of New Zealand on Queen 
 street, corner of Elinders lane. The institutions have branch- 
 es in suburbs and country. 
 
 Newspapers. — There are two daily morning papers, the 
 Argus and the Age; and one evening paper, the Herald. 
 
 Cathedrals and Churches. — The most central place of wor- 
 ship in Melbourne is the Anglican cathedral. Its massive and 
 chaste interior is in harmony with the architect's perfect de- 
 sign of the structure, which, however, requires tower and spire 
 and other accessories to enable the spectator to realize what 
 the finished building will be. The Boman Catholic cathedral 
 — St. Patrick's — holds a commanding position on Eastern hill, 
 to the east of parliament house ; and is one of the finest ex- 
 amples of architecture in the southern hemisphere. Both 
 
184 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 cathedrals are supplied with grand organs and peals of bells. 
 Other representative churches or denominations have places of 
 worship in every portion of Victoria. 
 
 Botanical Gardens. — The out-door resort par excellence of 
 Melbourne is the Botanical gardens on the banks of the Yarra, 
 about a mile from Prince bridge, and adjoining government 
 house grounds and observatory. The extensive and well-kept 
 lawns are diversified by artistic kiosks, grottoes and shrubber- 
 ies, which, with the vast accumulation of ornamental and use- 
 ful plants, gathered from all parts of the world, provide to- 
 gether an outing as enjoyable and instructive as the most ex- 
 acting could require. The lake, with its picturesque islets, 
 adds variety to the scene, and furnishes many interesting 
 studies to the amateur photographer and artist. 
 
 During our visit in Melbourne everybody was in the best 
 •of humor. The streets were so full that trifles, such as tread- 
 ing on toes, nudges in the ribs, etc., only provoked a grimace 
 and a laugh. 
 
 Yeomanry and soldiers from New Zealand and Tasmania 
 were represented by picked men; each regiment in a different 
 uniform. Uniform had the honor of the day. Anybody in 
 uniform was "right in it," and we were in uniform. I feel 
 that I may state, without appearing to take too much honor 
 to myself, that our American uniforms attracted as much at- 
 tention as any there; and it was actually difficult to walk the 
 streets because of the great number who constantly stopped us 
 to tell of their admiration for Yankees, and exchange protesta- 
 tions of mutual regard. A gentleman would take hold of 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 185 
 
 your arm, and, apologizing for his rudeness, ask you to come 
 in and have a drink, but as we were temperate, he would in- 
 sist that we go to dine, to the theatre or anywhere with him, 
 so that he might have our company long enough to questiou 
 us about America and our ship. It soon became a nuisance, 
 but we were indeed glad to find the Yankees so popular. They 
 talked much of Yankee ingenuity and pluck, and seemed thirst- 
 ing for information of our country. I must say that Austra- 
 lians appear to be much better informed about the United 
 States than the general run of Americans are about Australia. 
 Well, the future king of England and his wife came in the 
 royal yacht Ophir. 
 
 THE OPHIR's ARRIVAL. 
 
 The Australian squadron, under Admiral Beaumont, in 
 H. M. S. Royal Arthur, expected to meet the Ophir outside 
 Port Phillip Heads at 2 p. m. on Sunday. But the Ophir en- 
 tered at ten minutes to eleven and the squadron had only got 
 as far as the south channel, between Dromana and Sorrento, 
 when a great white steamer was seen entering between the 
 headlands. The Ophir! exclaimed a chorus of officers. There 
 could be no mistaking the royal yacht. Another moment and 
 the Royal Arthur was in commotion. A succession of orders 
 were given in one breath. Church services were hastily broken 
 up. "Dress ship." Instantly the signal flashed along the 
 lines and flags ran up to the mastheads. "Hats on," and the 
 bluejackets disappeared below to bedeck themselves in their 
 best raiment. In a trice they were up again, and "manning 
 
186 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 ship" — bluejackets along the rails of the upper deck, red- 
 coated marines on the bridge, and officers, who had meanwhile 
 donned their frock coats, swords and cocked hats, on the quar- 
 terdeck. 
 
 By this time the Juno appeared in the wake of the royal 
 yacht. The meeting of the fleets was a matter of a few mo- 
 ments. The Ophir, with band playing and flags flying — a 
 Trinity House ensign at one masthead, the royal standard at 
 the other — steamed along at a speed of fifteen knots, and came 
 abeam the Royal Arthur just south of the pile light. It was 
 an exciting moment. Along the line, on port and starboard, 
 the guns of the Australian squadron thundered forth the royal 
 salute, while the band of the flagship broke into the strains of 
 the national anthem. The Ophir and her attendant ships 
 came to anchor off Mornington. 
 
 The quietly dressed figure that appeared on the Ophir s 
 bridge did not require a second look to be recognized as his royal 
 highness, the Duke of Cornwall and York, whom many people 
 still remember as "Prince George." His royal highness wore a 
 naval uniform and looked every inch a sailor prince. The 
 traces of his recent illness were still to be found in his face, 
 which, though bearing the burnished livery of the sun and 
 the sea, might be a little fuller. Still, the well set up figure, 
 the springy walk and the evident zest with which the prince 
 entered into conversation with the members of hig. suite and 
 smoked cigarettes, bespoke a robustness which it will be grati- 
 fying to Australians to think that the long voyage out here 
 has brought him. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 187 
 
 Not far away from the king's son and at the head of the 
 gangway, stood a lady who appeared particularly interested 
 in all that was transpiring. It was the "Princess May/' in a 
 plain, close-fitting black costume, with a handsome black 
 feather boa around her neck and a dainty white sailor straw 
 hat, the band of which bore the letters "H. M. S. Ophir" The 
 Duchess of Tork might have stepped out of one of the thousands 
 of photos of hers that had been sold in Melbourne during the 
 past week, and she looked all that has been written about 
 her, gracious, kind, approachable, but withal royal. 
 
 Their royal highnesses were in the best of spirits, both of 
 them having enjoyed exceedingly good health since leaving the 
 tropics. Unpleasant, enervating weather was experienced while 
 crossing the equator and for some days afterwards, but on ap- 
 proaching the coast of western Australia, cool southerly breezes 
 were met with. The trip across the Australian bight was an 
 enjoyable one, smooth seas prevailing, and while the weather 
 was cold, the air was invigorating. 
 
 After the Ophir came to anchor she was boarded by the ad- 
 miral. Subsequently the South Australian gunboat, Protector, 
 arrived with the governor general and Lady Hopetoun. They 
 dined with their royal highnesses on the Ophir, as did the ad- 
 miral and his officers. The governor general and Lady Hope- 
 toun returned to town, while the Duke and Duchess of Corn- 
 wall stayed on board for the night, to steam up to St. Kilda the 
 next morning. The selection of Mornington as an anchoring 
 station was a happy idea, as the coast is there bold and pictur- 
 esque, with Mt. Eliza and Mt. Martha in the background. 
 
188 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 THE SCENE ON THE BAY. 
 
 An early start was made from Mornington, and long before 
 eleven o'clock there loomed out of the fog the royal yacht and 
 her attendants, the St. George, Juno, Royal Arthur, Mildura, 
 Wallaroo and Ringarooma. There was evidently a desire that 
 there should be no hitch in the arrangements, and long before 
 midday the Ophir was safely at anchor. As the huge yacht 
 steamed up the bay, it was noticed that she was flying a strange 
 flag. It was a birthday tribute, from the heir to the throne 
 of England to the dowager empress of Russia, and the Russian 
 flag flew from the masthead of his ship. The other war vessels, 
 quick to notice the flag, joined in the welcome and fired a sa- 
 lute in honor of the event. 
 
 The Ophir took up her anchorage midway between Port Mel- 
 bourne and Williamstown, and the war ships lay grouped around 
 her. In shore the Hansa and Kormoran represented Ger- 
 many, while next to them, the Noord Brabant flew the Nether- 
 lands flag. Over toward Williamstown the Cerverus and the 
 South Australian gunboat, Protector, rode at anchor. On the 
 seaward side of the Ophir lay the Royal Arthur, then the Juno, 
 Ringarooma, St. George and Wallaroo. Standing out boldly 
 in her white paint, the BrooMyn came next, and the Mildura 
 lay between her and the Russian ship, the Gromoboi, which 
 was the furthest out. It was a grand sight to see those huge 
 ships lying there, all summoned to take part in the making 
 of a nation's destinies and a welcome to the eldest son of the 
 king of England. 
 
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AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 191 
 
 The paddle steamer, Hygeia, which had been deputed to con- 
 vey their royal highnesses to the St. Kilda pier, ranged up 
 beside the Ophir soon after she anchored. With the first 
 revolution of her paddles there burst from the port side of the 
 Royal Arthur a puff of smoke, and instantly the other war 
 ships took up the signal, and the firing of the salute of twen- 
 ty-one guns had begun. It was a magnificent sight. From the 
 masthead floated the royal standard and the vessel was gaily 
 decorated with bunting. Under an awning aft the funnel 
 comfortable seats had been placed, and there the duke and 
 duchess sat and watched the approach to St. Kilda. Under 
 the control of Commander Richardson, of the Victorian navy, 
 and navigated by her regular master, Captain Patrick, the 
 Hygeia steamed gently across the bay. The yachts, which had 
 been swarming around the Ophir from the time she anchored, 
 set sail across the water, but they were soon outstripped, and 
 though the Hygeia had to swing round into the bight by Port 
 Melbourne, sq as to obtain a straight run into the St. Kilda 
 pier, the yachts had no chance of getting across quickly. 
 Slowly Captain Patrick drew the Hygeia up to the pier, and 
 when all had been made taut, his royal highness, dressed as a 
 British admiral, stepped forward with the Duchess of Corn- 
 wall and York and to the strains of "God Save the King/' 
 walked ashore to receive the official and public welcome of 
 Australia. 
 
 THE LANDING. 
 
 Under the cloudless sky the St. Kilda pier was a very pretty 
 sight. Its great length was emphasized by a crimson carpet 
 
192 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 running along the center from end to end, and rows of masts 
 from which brightly colored penants flew. The shelter shed 
 was made quite beautiful. Midway was a handsome arch 
 erected by the St. Kilda yachtsmen, and at the place of land- 
 ing a canopy which was festooned and draped. The esplan- 
 ade and its stands were thronged with people, and every win- 
 dow commanding a view of the scene was occupied. Then, on 
 the bay side, were the royal yacht OpMr and all the war ships 
 and smaller crafts that took part in the landing ceremony. 
 The pier was lined on each side by the Victorian permanent 
 artillery and the first battalion infantry brigade. It was just 
 five minutes to two when the royal visitors walked down the 
 gangway from the paddle steamer Hygeia and were received 
 by his excellency, the governor general. This was signalized 
 by cheers of welcome. His excellency at once presented to 
 their royal highnesses, Mr. E. Barton, Prime Minister of 
 the Commonwealth; Sir William Lyne, Minister of the Home 
 Department; Sir George Turner, Treasurer, and others. His 
 royal highness wore the uniform of an admiral and the Bib- 
 'bon and Order of the Garter, and the duchess was dressed in 
 black and carried a bouquet of orchids and violets. When the 
 royal party had passed under the arch, they halted for a 
 moment, and Lieutenant Colonel Hughes, mayor of St. Kilda, 
 was presented to them and handed to her royal highness a 
 large bunch of orchids. It was just twenty minutes past two 
 when their royal highnesses and Lord Wenlock were seated 
 >in the semi-state landau on the lower esplanade. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 193 
 
 FEOM ST. EXLDA TO THE CITY. 
 
 'A strip of scarlet and gold flashed against the royal blue 
 of the sky told the dense black mass of people who had gath- 
 ered on the foreshore opposite the St. Kilda pier, that the 
 royal carriage was mounting on the upper esplanade. While 
 on the lower esplanade the procession was hidden from the 
 view of those on the street level, and the watching for its first 
 appearance heightened the excitement. People swarmed all 
 over the great buildings facing the sea, until they looked like 
 a rugged range of humanity; on the high peaks hundreds 
 of bright banner^ had been planted. The huge sea- 
 wall dividing the lower from the upper esplanade was crowned 
 with men, women and children, and the egg-shaped space be- 
 tween the junction of the two esplanades and Fitzroy street 
 was a solid mass, in which it would have been impossible to 
 crowd a sparrow. As the royal visitors came into full view 
 the pent-up enthusiasm of the crowd was loosened. Those who 
 had seats jumped to their feet, heads were bared, flags, hand- 
 kerchiefs and hats waved and fluttered in the sunlight and a 
 mighty cheer echoed along the shore. This tumult whetted 
 the expectancy of the crowd further on in Fitzroy street. There 
 rhey were from ten to thirty deep on each side of the route. 
 The street was lined with one of the infantry brigades, and 
 the white helmets of the soldiers made a snowy fringe to the 
 enormous black carpet of the crowd. The crowd never made 
 a mistake. Everybody had taken the trouble to learn the 
 exact position of the royal carriage in the procession, and 
 
194 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 they waited and watched for its appearance. Everywhere the 
 same hearty cheers greeted the duke and duchess. The sound 
 of thundering voices was never for a second allowed to di- 
 minish in volume. 
 
 At the intersection of Fitzroy street and St. Kilda road 
 the cities of St. Kilda and Prahan had erected an imposing 
 arch. Tremendous applause went rolling down St. Kilda road 
 as their royal highnesses made their way beneath. The 
 shouts of joy were taken up by the two immense lines of peo- 
 ple — in some places fifteen deep — which reached all the way 
 to Princess Bridge. On leaving the St. Kilda arch the order 
 was given to "trot march." Hundreds of people had taken 
 up positions on St. Kilda road four or five hours before the 
 arrival of the procession. Some of them had provided them- 
 selves with stools and chairs and most of them brought their 
 luncheon. The streets at right angles to the road were com- 
 pletely blocked with vehicles, filled with eager and enthu- 
 siastic people. Many of the fine houses along St. Kilda road 
 were beautifully decorated, streamers and lines of flags having 
 been stretched from the ornamental trees in the grounds at- 
 tached. 
 
 The quick pace was maintined until the Domain was reached. 
 At that point a very pretty sight had been prepared for their 
 royal highnesses. The slope of the Domain from one end 
 to the other had been entirely covered with Sunday-school 
 children. They were thirty-five thousand strong, and standing 
 beneath the fresh green trees they made a charming picture. On 
 the approach of the royal carriage the children sang "God Save 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 1S5 
 
 the King/' and "God Bless the Prince of Wales,'' under the 
 leadership of Mr. Davies, who was perched upon a very high 
 stand, from whence he could be seen by the singers. The royal 
 carriage instantly slowed down to a walking pace, and then, 
 the singing quite finished, the children piped their glad hur- 
 rahs and waved the forest of tiny union jacks. The scene 
 appeared to please their royal higneases, who bowed their 
 acknowledgments. 
 
 the countess' pavilion. 
 
 A neat and commodious pavilion was specially erected by 
 the public works department on St. Kilda road, opposite the 
 entrance to Government House, for the use of her excellency, 
 the Countess of Hopetoun, the wives of the state governors, 
 and the staff of his excellency, the governor-general. Shortly 
 after three o'clock his excellency, the governor-general, at- 
 tended by Captain K. W. Duff, A. D. C, rode from St. Kilda 
 pier (where they had been receiving their royal highnesses) 
 through Albert Park to St, Kilda road, and thence along the 
 route of the procession to the pavilion. As the carriage of their 
 royal highnesses came opposite his excellency the governor- 
 general saluted, and the Countess of Hopetoun and all the 
 ladies in the pavilion rose from their chairs and courtesied, 
 while the visiting naval officers, and those of his excellency's 
 staff who were in the pavilion saluted. Their royal high- 
 nesses seemed specially pleased with the reception accorded 
 them, and returned their courtesies with a genial bow. There 
 was no stoppage of the procession at this point. The royal car- 
 
196 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 riage was merely slowed down as it passed the pavilion. The 
 governor-general and the Countess of Hopetoun and party 
 waited .till the procession had passed, and then his excellency 
 rode to government house, while her excellency walked hither, 
 accompanied by Captain Wallington and Mrs. Corbet. 
 
 ENTERING THE CITY. 
 
 It was just three o'clock as the troopers who preceded the 
 royal procession reached the Princess Arch, and a few min- 
 utes afterwards a sound of distant cheering announced the 
 approach of the duke and duchess. The duke's carriage hav- 
 ing halted in front of the platform, Mrs. Gillott, Mayoress of 
 Melbourne, handed to her royal highness the Duchess of 
 Cornwall and York, a handsome bouquet, with sprigs of maid- 
 enhair and asparagus ferns. The bouquet rested in a holder 
 of gold, set with opals, to which were fastened two white 
 streamers, beautifully hand-painted. 
 
 The duchess accepted the bouquet, and leaning forward, 
 thanked the mayoress for her gift. An addess of welcome was 
 then presented by the mayor and council of Melbourne to the 
 Duke of Cornwall. 
 
 THROUGH THE CITY. 
 
 The line of march through the city was up Swanston street, 
 along Collins istreet and Spring street to parliament house, 
 down Burk street to Williams street, and thence via Collins 
 street back to Swanston street, and home to government house. 
 Throughout almost the whole route there were unbroken lines 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 197 
 
 of spectators. Buildings were draped with flags, stands, roofs, 
 and windows occupied high placed spectators, the roadway kept 
 by troops, the foot-paths occupied by the public. At inter- 
 vals the procession passed under special arches— the King's 
 arch in Swanston street; the Queen Victoria arch, the Duke's 
 arch, the Butter arch, the German arch, the Manufacturer's 
 arch, etc. 
 
 The magnificent carriage horses, bright with scarlet pad 
 clothes and scarlet streamers, and jingling with rich gold-plated 
 harness, performed their task with quiet decorum. The pos- 
 tilions in all the bravery of scarlet, blue and gold, sat in 
 their saddles like statues, and the whole equipage arrested the 
 eye by its shear brilliancy and splendor. Yet it was not the 
 equipage itself but the occupants that the eyes rested upon, 
 instinctively passing by all details and accessories to search 
 the features of the personage who represents for all Australia 
 the living embodiment of that principle of constitutional mon- 
 archy, which has done so much for Australia, and for which 
 she, too, has suffered in these later days. The slight figure, 
 and the delicate face, glowing with a flush of pleasure at the 
 warmth and evident spontaneity of the welcome which was 
 shouted to him from the very housetops, rivets the gaze of the 
 spectator. Ever and anon his royal highness, who was dressed 
 in the uniform of a British admiral, lifts his hand to his 
 cocked hat in graceful salute to the cheers of the multitude. 
 Beside him sits a lady in deep black, whose face is ^familiar to 
 all through her portraits. She is alert to all around her, 
 keen to observe, and quick to appreciate. Ever and anon she 
 
198 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 draws the attention of his highness to some feature of the 
 decoration or some specially enthusiastic outburst of cheering, 
 and bows, not only to the people on the sidewalk, but to those 
 in the raised stands, and even to the eager watchers who clap 
 their hands and wave their handkerchiefs in the topmost win- 
 dows. In the demeanor of the royal pair geniality and deep 
 human sympathy are written large for all to read. 
 
 In Spring street, on the left-hand side, the great hotels were 
 bright with many-colored bunting, and from the roof of one 
 of them a long festoon of flags swung out in a graceful curve 
 before the grateful breeze that came to temper the summer 
 heat of the sun. On the right was the stately pile of parlia- 
 ment house, fringed with a line of tall and w T aving ferns 
 that divided the steps from the roadway, and crowded on steps 
 and terraces, at windows and on parapets, with the guests who 
 had come, from far and near to be present at these celebra- 
 tions. As the royal carriage passed loud cheers broke from 
 the occupants of all the balconies and grandstands and from 
 the dense masses of people who blackened the steps of parlia- 
 ment house. Here were gathered the prime minister and his 
 ministers of state, who had come back hotfoot from the land- 
 ing place to see their royal highnesses go past the home of 
 the federal parliament place. Here also were officers in 
 strange uniforms, admirals and captains and lieutenants from 
 the war ships of those great powers that had dispatched their 
 cruisers on a voyage of many thousands of miles to carry greet- 
 ings and congratulations to the young nation which is even now 
 stepping forward to join them in the councils of the world. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 201 
 
 From the point of view of a piece of organization, nothing 
 could have been more successful than the arrangement of this 
 procession. All arms of the defense forces of Australia were 
 represented, and the parade must have brought home to many 
 the extent and variety of the troops at the disposal of the fed- 
 eral minister of defense. ]STew features of interest, too, met 
 the royal pair at every turn. As the royal carriage wheeled 
 into Williams street, the cadets came in view, parading over 
 four thousand strong, a solid body of alert, determined lads, 
 the foundation of splendid war material in the future, for the 
 cadet of today is the veteran of tomorrow, as the records of 
 South African campaign can testify. Then, as the procession 
 turned into Collins street, the stately line of the great thor- 
 oughfare showed a long perspective festooned with flags and 
 banners, and, best of all, filled from end to end with faces that 
 smiled down in a welcome that could not be misunderstood. 
 Passing under the graceful German arch with its warm and 
 kindly greeting, the royal visitors turned into Swanston street, 
 and after crossing the bridge, proceeded at a trot to govern- 
 ment house, the various detachments finding their way back 
 to camp by the shortest route. The great ceremonial of the 
 day *was over. 
 
 AT GOVERNMENT HOUSE. 
 
 At government house his royal highness inspected the 
 guard of honor, accompanied by Lord Hopetoun. Each of the 
 military commandants was then presented to the duke, and 
 immediately after the same honor was bestowed upon Colonel 
 Hoad, chief of the staff. 
 
202 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 The duke expressed himself as highly gratified with the 
 whole of the arrangements in connection with his reception, 
 and the procession, and all with the successful carrying out 
 of all the details. 
 
 The inspection and presentation did not occupy more than 
 three or four minutes, and their royal highnesses then en- 
 tered government house, followed by the governor general and 
 the Countess of Hopetoun and the members of the suite of the 
 royal visitors who had by this time left their carriages. As the 
 duke crossed the threshold the royal standard was hoisted on 
 the tower, notifying that his residence was there for the 
 present, and the battery on the government domain fired a roy- 
 al salute of twenty-one guns. This concluded the proceedings, 
 and the naval forces then formed into fours, and headed by 
 their band, marched off to quarters. 
 
 On the first day of the Brooklyn's visit in Melbourne there 
 was such a dense crowd on the pier trying to come on board 
 this great fighting ship, that, in their eagerness to hurry over 
 the gang-way, thirteen ladies were crushed to insensibility 
 and had to be carried on board and immediately attended by 
 the ship's doctor. This occurred nearly ever day of her stay 
 alongside the dock. They certainly showed us a royal wel- 
 come, and nothing seemed to be too good for the Yankees. 
 
 We made good use of our opportunities, throwing ourselves 
 into the mad rush for pleasure with a will ; and all hands were 
 sorry when the Brooklyn steamed out of the harbor for Auck- 
 land, New Zealand. 
 
CHAPTEK VII. 
 
 NEW ZEALAND THE MAORI WONDERLAND ROTORUA WHAK- 
 
 AREWAREWA HEALTH RESORTS OF NEW ZEALAND RE- 
 CEPTION OE THE HINGIS SON AT ROTORTJA A 
 
 GREAT MAORI GATHERING. 
 
 THE BEITISH COLONY of New Zealand lies two or 
 three days' sail to the eastward of Australia. It was orig- 
 inally inhabited by cannibal tribes called Maoris, v ho have 
 been gradually elevated to a higher plane of civilization, and 
 are said to be the most intelligent people of Australasia. They 
 are above the average in size, very energetic and intelligent. 
 Many handsome boys and girls may be found among their 
 tribes, and I should term them the most interesting savages 
 under cultivation of Europeans. 
 
 New Zealand is only about forty years old in civilization, 
 but, with the aid of an excellent government and the indomi- 
 table energy of her people, she has already reached a state 
 of civilization which, considering the difficulties under which 
 she has labored, is commendable. 
 
 Europeans from England, Australia and America make up 
 the bulk of white inhabitants. Intermarriage, however, has 
 resulted in a considerable per cent of half and quarter blood 
 natives, who are extremely comely and intelligent. 
 
204 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 The soil is productive, and they are blessed with a fine cli- 
 mate. Among the valuable productions of New Zealand are 
 gold, silver, coal, timber, wool, flax, corn, oats, wheat and 
 beef. Little pork is produced. 
 
 Auckland lies on North Island, and is a pretty little city 
 of perhaps 40,000. It also possesses the advantage of a fine 
 harbor, as well as other great natural advantages. The moun- 
 tains back of the town form a pretty frame for this most 
 interesting landscape. But so quiet did it seem after the hur- 
 ry and crowds of Melbourne that some of the sailors suggested 
 among themselves that it would be a good thing for the admiral 
 to fire an extra salute, in order to awaken the people. How- 
 ever, they proved later to be fully awake, and made our visit 
 a very pleasant one. 
 
 The Salvation Army has a great hold in New Zealand, and 
 one cannot, I understand, even drive a vehicle through the 
 streets on Sunday because of the noise it would make. They 
 certainly have made Auckland a quiet city and a moral one. 
 
 After a few days' stay in Auckland, the flagship came down 
 the coast to Wellington, another nice little city of about the 
 same number of people, situated at the southern extremity of 
 the same island. Here we were treated in the usual hospitable 
 manner and enjoyed our stay very much. While Wellington 
 has not the natural advantage of a fine harbor that adds so 
 much to the beauty of Auckland, it is a very promising Uttle 
 city, and there is great rivalry between them. 
 
 A great part of New Zealand contains rich farming land. 
 This little country is rising rapidly in importance. The peo- 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 205 
 
 pie greatly admire and imitate the Yankee. A leading citi- 
 zen, who asked my opinion of New Zealand, appeared well 
 pleased with the reply that it was a charming place an which 
 to live, but had one dark blot upon its character — the whip- 
 ping post. He agreed with me, and said that a "move" was 
 being made to abolish it. 
 
 New Zealand is famous for its many health resorts. A 
 great number of mineral, hot and cold springs, as well as 
 several hot mud baths are situated in her boundaries. Among 
 them are Rotorua and Whakarewarewa, two favorite places of 
 all visiting tourists. 
 
 ROTORUA. 
 
 This township consists of the government portion ( Rotorua 
 containing sanatarium and hospital, and Ohinemutu, the orig- 
 inal native village. The points of interest are : First, the gov- 
 ernment sanatarium, situated in beautiful grounds and con- 
 taining curative baths — Priest's bath for gout, rheumatism;, 
 sciatica ; Rachel's bath, for psoriasis, eczema ; Painkiller bath, 
 for chronic rheumatism, parasitic diseases of skin ; Postmas- 
 ter bath, — action that of a modified mustard plaster. Second, 
 the Maori pah, containing whares and runanga houses, hot 
 springs, steam jets, and boiling mud holes ; near Rotorua are 
 the celebrated cold water springs, Hamarana and Tikitere, 
 familiarly termed The Inferno of these regions. 
 
 WHAKAREWAREWA. 
 
 This native settlement, the real center of wonderland, is 
 nearly .two miles from Rbtorua. It is mainly bounded by Pua- 
 
206 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 renga Stream. Passing over the bridge the tourist may select 
 as a guide one of the bright-eyed Maori girls who offer to con- 
 duct him. The spoti to attract attention is the great ngawha 
 ■or cooking pool, named Parekohuru, a circular crater full of 
 boiling, transparent, cerulean water. This pool, the Maoris 
 say, "is as deep and unfathomable as a woman's heart." Pro- 
 ceeding on the visitor reaches two large pools of warm water, 
 which are generally alive with Maori men, women and children, 
 some of the latter squatting at ease on the brink ready to dive 
 for coins. A little farther on is a violently turbulent spring, 
 Korotiotio, which overflows and fills the adjacent reservoir, 
 from which the oil bath draws its supply. Passing on by nu- 
 merous bubbling mud pots and clouds of sulphurous steam, the 
 traveler approaches the center of this wonderful scene of wild 
 thermal activity, and surmounting a gentle rise, reaches the 
 Geyser Plateau. Here are situated the wonderfully shaped 
 Brain Pot, the peerless refractory Wairoa Geyser, which throws 
 a perpendicular column of water 150 feet, "in spite of prohibi- 
 tory parliamentary decree." A few yards further will be seen 
 the Twin Geyser, the immense Pohutu Geyser, and others of cor- 
 responding interest. 
 
 At the time of our visit the people of New Zealand had. 
 been preparing for some time to receive the Duke and Duchess 
 of Cornwall and York. There was general excitement in an- 
 ticipation of this event. The Maoris were preparing to receive 
 them at Eotorua and entertain them in true Maori stvle. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 207 
 
 ROTORUA DECORATED TO RECEIVE ROYALTY. 
 
 Wet mists enfolded the soft green wooded peaks of Mokoai, 
 the "Sacred Island of Tinirau," set in the still waters of Ko- 
 torua, and wreathed in heavy, fleecy clouds, the adjacent bush 
 ranges, when I paid my preliminary visit of inspection to the 
 great Maori assemblage on the racecourse, which lies midway 
 between Rotorua township and the Geyser Valley of "WLak- 
 arewarewa. Rotorua in midsummer is chiefly remarkable for 
 its enexhaustible supply of dust. Just then the most noticeable 
 feature of the township and its surroundings was the all-per- 
 vading mud. The skies had swept over the assembling tribes 
 for the last week. But, given a spell of dry, clear weather, the 
 midwinter season in Rotorua is said to be far pleasanter than 
 the summer period. I have seen the lake for days at a time 
 a motionless sheet of polished silver under a cloudless sky, its 
 surface unrippled by the faintest breath, with the classic isle 
 of Mokoai rising like a glorious emerald from the shining 
 waters. Such, however, was not the aspeor of the Rotorua-Nui- 
 a-Kaku at the time of writing. 
 
 It is hard to put in words the color, the animation, and 
 babble of sounds which are some of the things that strike 
 one at this great congress of over four thousand people of the 
 native race, representing every tribe in 'Mew Zealand, from 
 the North Cape to Otago. It was a good deal larger, I was 
 ■told, than the great gathering held at Taupiri in 1894, at the 
 Tangi over King Tawhiao, and is also a very much larger af- 
 fair than the important meetings hold at Kopua and Hiku- 
 rangi in 1878 and 1879, between Sir George Grey and the 
 
208 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 Kingites. In fact, there are only two meetings v.hich will at 
 all compare with it — the E-emuera gathering of 1844, when the 
 might of Waikato, under the redoubtable cannibal warrior Te 
 Whero-whero, made such a martial display that the white pop- 
 ulation of the infinite capital trembled, and the conference of 
 tribes at Kohimarama in 1860. But this Eotorua "hui" of 
 1901 outshines them all, and will be remembered in nine to 
 come as the last great combined display in force in the New Zea- 
 land native race. In the symbolic language of the Maori, the 
 "Waitai," has come to meet the "Wai-Maori," the salt coast 
 dwellers have journeyed to greet the "fresh-water tribes," the in- 
 land people of the soil ; pilgrims to a Geyser-land Mecca. It is a 
 fitting occasion, too, in the Maori eye, for the tribes from east 
 and west and north and south to meet on common ground, for 
 the visit of the Great White Queen's "mokopuna," is the event 
 of a life-time; the sons of the soil liken the duke to the pro- 
 verbial "iKotuku-Kerenga-Tahi," the rare white crane, whose 
 flight is seen but once and no more in the span of one's life. 
 The old order of things had been temporarily revived at this 
 "hui." On the wide racecourse flat we saw the old Maori cos- 
 tume, the ancient weapons, — "rakau maori,"i — the savage- 
 looking tattooed faces of historic Aotearoa. Centuries old songs, 
 snatches of weird incantations, dating back to the legendary 
 Hawaiiki, of the thousand isled south seas, are heard as the 
 long severed tribes greet each other, and the orators pace up 
 and down, spear in hand, and leap into the air and pour forth 
 poetical greetings, as in the days of old. Yet it is a curious 
 mingling of the old and new. Deeply tattooed warriors, whose 
 
Uncle Sam is Trying to Educate these Pickaninnies. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 211 
 
 memories go back to the cannibal era, who, have, as it w T ere, 
 hardly emerged from the stone age, sit side by side with young 
 bloods who ride bicycles and pound the big drum in the vil- 
 lage brass band. The attire of the people is a wonderful mix- 
 ture, too. A great many are dressed in the height of pakeha 
 fashion and some sport frock coats and bell-toppers, mats of 
 flax and feathers abound, many of them very fine examples 
 of Maori 'garments, and thrown over the shoulders or worn 
 around the waist, they give just the touch of picturesqueness 
 which is needed to redeem the costume from the associations of 
 European stores. But the ladies' dresses certainly cannot be 
 called prosaic or commonplace. They are all colors imagin- 
 able ; a pakeha ballet or a pantomime is nothing to a Maori 
 "hui," when the softer sex give their boxes a holiday. 
 
 The encampment itself forms a sort of a great semi-circle 
 on the eastern side of the racecourse, and separated from the 
 cleared ground in front of the roval grandstand bv a wide belt 
 of very short manuka scrub. The one wide and long street is 
 flanked on either side by many scores of tents, and by large 
 raupo wharves, and from the main avenue branch ofl various 
 small lanes forming the divisions between the camps of the 
 various tribes. Some hapus are housed in large marquees, oth- 
 ers are detached in sections, like a regiment of soldiers in line, 
 or a square of bell tents ; others make themselves at home in 
 the fami^'ar raupo huts, and all are happy, merry and good 
 tempered. 
 
 Every Maori tribe in ISTew Zealand has its representatives 
 here; some in hundreds, others in smaller parties There must 
 
212 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 be close on four thousand people in the encampment, besides 
 the numerous hapus of the Arawa tribe, whose quarters are 
 Ohinemutu and Whakarewarewa, and who as the "tangata- 
 whenua,'' the people of the place, share with the government 
 the responsibility of entertaining the visitors. From the north 
 cape to Otago the tribes all have their delegates here to join 
 in welcoming their heir to the throne ; and the food supplies they 
 have brought with them are as varied as the localities of the 
 tribes. Tons of potatoes, kumaras, shellfish, droves of cattle 
 and pigs, flocks of sheep, are there to feed the hungry multi- 
 tude. Then there are various delicacies peculiar to particular 
 districts, potted pigeons and wild duck from the Taupo district 
 and the forests of Tuhoe land ; Taro from the semi-tropical far 
 north, and preserved mutton birds from the south island. A 
 great pile of a couple of hundred tons of firewood was stacked 
 on the far side of the ''marae," close to the store sheds, where 
 the permanent force men were busily engaged serving out the 
 government's share of the provision to the tribes ; and at the 
 rear of each tribe's lines were the out of door cooking quarters, 
 where scores of boilers and native "hangis" (the primitive 
 earth ovens) were going continuously. 
 
 THE TYPES OF THE PEOPLE, 
 
 in this great marae are a deeply interesting study. Every 
 tribe, from the Aopouri in the far north to the Mgaitahu who 
 dwell in the cold "wai-pounamu," are here, and the differences 
 in the facial and physical type would give much food for spec- 
 ulation to an ethnologist. The wiry, alert looking ISTgatiporou 
 from the East Cape stands up to Eaka side by side with a big, 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 213 
 
 jolly faced, but somewhat soft looking ISTgatikahungunu sheep 
 owner from Hawke's Bay, and the Wairarapa, and the quick 
 eyed, small built men of the Whanganui river exchanged 
 laughing salutations with their old Hauhau enemies from 
 Opotiki and Whakatane, the active dancers of Whakatohea and 
 JSTgatiawa. One of these Whangamuis has an almostMongolian 
 cast of countenance. Here and there one catches a glimpse 
 of a true Jewish type of nose; that tall, curly haired man 
 with a Semitic cast of countenance is a ISTgaiterangi from down 
 Tauranga way. A curious type is the "TTrukehu," or fair 
 haired, pure blooded Maori ; the reddish tinge in the luxuriant 
 tresses of the "Urukehu" woman is a relic of a very ancient 
 aboriginal strain, whose source is lost in mystery. When it 
 comes to "action front" and the men stripped for the dances 
 of rehearsal for the duke, or for the daily welcome to visitors, 
 one sees what fine physiques the Maori race can show. The 
 Whanganui and ISTgatiapa men are on the small side, but ex- 
 ceedingly well developed, and as active as deer; the Ngaci- 
 kahungunu on the other hand are more dignified and slow in 
 their movements, but show magnificent torsos. Maori women 
 do not display so much of their charms as do their cousins, 
 the belles of the South Sea Islands, so we must confine our- 
 selves to the faces, which are even more varied in their local 
 distinctiveness than the men's. Some faces (especially those 
 of the young half-caste girls) are as finely molded as those of 
 the high born "taupos" of Samoa; others have the flat nose 
 and thick lips inclining to the Papuan. Some real beauties 
 there are among the younger girls; large eyed, oval faced 
 
214 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 creatures, with their shawls draped around their heads, like 
 pictures of Spanish ladies in their mantillas, but all, young 
 and old, swinging along with that peculiar swaggering roll 
 of the hips which is characteristic of the wahine Maori — 
 born perhaps of generations of training in the movements of 
 the haka. The ladies of rank bear themselves like duchesses, 
 conscious of their long ancestral lines, and they sail majes- 
 tically along with something like haughty scorn expressed in 
 the curl of their liberal lips and the tilt of their blue tattooed 
 chins. 
 
 Many of the highest chiefs in the land are here. There is 
 the young Te Heuheu, high chieftain of the Lake Taupo peo- 
 ple, a handsome, well built man of thirty-five, whose flashing 
 eye and proud bearing proclaim him a "tinorangatira," a chief 
 indeed. Te Heuheu is an excellent type of the best meni of 
 the modern Maori ; intelligent, educated and combining with 
 his European knowledge a deep pride in his noble pedigree 
 and the records of his illustrious ancestors. For the Heuheu 
 can rehearse his genealogical table back forty generations' — a 
 thousand years — away into the hazy mists of the past, when 
 his "Tupunas" dwelt in the warm summer isles of the great 
 Ocean of Kiwa. Hie has demigods on his family tree ; he has 
 even a family guardian— atua or god, by name, Rongomai, 
 whose outward form is that of a shooting star. The proverb 
 of his tribe, the Ngatituwharetoa, has it : "Rongomai is the 
 god; Te Heuheu is the man." And again, in the symbolical 
 phraseology of the lakemen : "Tongariro is the mountain ; 
 Taupo is the sea; Te Heuheu is the man." These high sound- 
 
AROUND THB WORLD IN THE NAVY 215 
 
 ing sayings were applied to Hauhau's famous grandfather, 
 Te Heuheu, the Great, who was a man-eating warrior of dread 
 renown, who figures in Angas' rear sketches secured nearly 
 sixty years ago, and who perished with fifty of his tribe in 
 the land slip at Te Rapa, Taupo, in 1846. Amongst the other 
 prominent chiefs one sees here in the broad camp square are 
 A. T. Ngata, Reverend Mohi Turei, R. Kohere and Te Hou- 
 kamau, of the East Cape district ; and Taonui, and many an- 
 other man of rank with pedigrees which go back into the dark 
 ages. 
 
 THE WELCOME OF THE DUKE. 
 
 A noteworthy feature of the reception tendered the duke 
 were the numerous striking songs, war chants, ballads and 
 other poetical compositions of the tribes, some breathing the 
 fierce spirit of Tu-mata-uenga, the angry faced god of war, 
 others in a lighter vein which were sung by the various divi- 
 sions of the Maori people. In their tangi songs, "Apakuras" 
 for the dead queen, they make touching reference to the pass- 
 ing away of Wikitoria, their great "Takairu-Ariki," as they 
 style her, to the dismal regions of death. I was present at a 
 "full-dress" (that is to say, very little dress) practice by the 
 combined men of the East Cape and surrounding districts, chief- 
 ly Ngatiporou, in their large marquee in the encampment. 
 The tent w r as crowded with half naked dancers, armed with 
 "tewkatewhas," and with their admiring friends. Ngatiporou 
 were careful to admit no members of outside tribes who might 
 be wandering around to pick up "points" in dance songs from 
 the East Cape tribes, who are acknowledged past masters at this 
 
216 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 sort of thing. For a couple of hours the rehearsal of songs 
 went on, and many a wild refrain was chorused to the accom- 
 paniment of resounding slaps, as one man, on the bare bodies 
 of the dancers of JSTgatiporou. Here was to be seen a curious 
 spectacle of an M. A. and L. L. B. of the New Zealand Uni- 
 versity, a polished gentleman and a clever young lawyer, 
 bounding up and down, stripped to his trousers, a flax girdle 
 around his waist, spear in hand, leading his tribe in the war 
 dance of their ancestors. For Mr. Apirana Ngata, one of the 
 finest members of the Maori race living, does not disdain the 
 martial parades of his forefathers, and patriotically encour- 
 ages his tribe in healthy emulation with other people, whether 
 these sports or in more serious matters. He and others of the 
 more advanced men of ISTgatiporou pride themselves on having 
 eliminated a great deal of the more objectionable features of 
 the dances and songs ; they have in fact succeeded in Bow- 
 blerising the haka. 
 
 ARRIVAL AT ROTORUA. 
 
 Punctually at half past four in the afternoon the royal train 
 swept round the long curve leading into Rotorua station, and 
 drew up alongside the platform. The reception by the assem- 
 bled multitude of the Arawas was a sight long to be remem- 
 bered. As the train steamed up hundreds of the people of 
 the soil sprang up, and with their women waving green 
 branches and the army of men brandishing, in splendid time, 
 up and down, to right and left, their wooden weapons, they 
 sang, or rather shouted, their stentorian "powhiri" of wel- 
 come to the king's son. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 217 
 
 The effect of the welcome song and the combined stamping 
 of many hundred feet and simultaneous drill with the plumed 
 tawhatewhas, was exceedingly fine and greatly interested the 
 visitors, to many of whom such a sight was quite a novel one. 
 
 Accompanied by Lord Ranfurly and the rest of the occu- 
 pants of the train, their royal highnesses alighted on a car- 
 peted platform. They were met by Captain Gilbert Mair, 
 an old colonial officer, who was in charge of the Maori en- 
 campment, and Captain Turner, chairman of the town coun- 
 cil, together with several of the more prominent Maori chiefs. 
 
 The duke was in civilian attire, dressed completely in black. 
 This caused a great deal of disappointment among the Maoris, 
 who had expected that his royal highness would appear in 
 uniform. The Maori associates the "mama," or prestige of a 
 "tinorangatira" (great chief), with his outward symbols of 
 authority, such as a military uniform. The duchess was also 
 dressed in black, wearing a perfectly fitting tailormade costume 
 and black toque. Lord Ranfurly and the members of the staff 
 were also in mufti. Captain Mair wore the uniform of a 
 ]STew Zealand officer of the militia. 
 
 The proceedings at the railway station were very brief. 
 After Miss Dorothy Turner had presented a bouquet to the 
 duchess, Lord Ranfurly introduced Captain Turner to the 
 royal visitors, and then presented to the duke the two princi- 
 pal representative chiefs of the Arawa "waka," or ancestral 
 tribal canoe. Both these chiefs wore handsome mantles of na- 
 tive manufacture and carried valuable weapons of their race. 
 
 •This brief ceremony over, the duke and party walked 
 
218 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 through a carpeted passage to the rear of th© station where the 
 carriages were waiting. Soldiers, together with the Hamilton 
 and Rotorua brass bands, were lined up outside the station. 
 As the duke and duchess emerged from the station the band 
 struck up the national anthem, while the troops presented 
 arms. Outside the gates the expectant crowd of Maoris 
 cheered lustily, and chanted their songs of welcome to the duke. 
 The duke and duchess entered the first carriage, accompa- 
 nied by Lord Wenlock, and drove to the Grand hotel, which 
 had been reserved for accommodation of the royal party. The 
 rest of the party followed in carriages. The mounted infan- 
 try acted as escort to their royal highnesses. The Maoris 
 were wildly enthusiastic, and swarmed in hundreds along the 
 route behind the royal pair. Many broke through the lines, 
 and ran along behind the carriage, waving their wooden battle- 
 axes and spears and chanting songs of welcome. It was a great 
 pity that the weather was so bad. The effect of the decora- 
 tions, and indeed of the whole reception, was marred by the 
 drizzling rain and the fast gathering darkness. The line of 
 route tramped by the swarming crowd was literally a sea of 
 mud, and the unfortunate visitors who had to follow the pro- 
 cession on foot had rather a lively time of it in getting up to 
 the Grand hotel. But neither rain nor wind seemed to dampen 
 the enthusiasm of the Maoris, who splashed along the road 
 as fast as their legs could carry them. Some pushed right in 
 among the horses, and the large ?*aff of policemen had their 
 work cut out to curb the exuberance of the excited throng. 
 
to 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 221 
 
 The drive to the hotel occupied about five minutes, and the 
 procession traveled at a walking pace. The native minister 
 met the royal party at the entrance to the hotel and was pre- 
 sented to the duke and duchess. The ceremony of presenting 
 the united Maori tribes' address of welcome took place at the 
 veranda steps. As the royal couple reached the steps, the band 
 struck up again, and the natives broke out in another dance 
 of welcome. Both the royal visitors seemed pleased with the 
 cordiality of their reception, and the quaint Maori gathering 
 was evidently full of interest. 
 
 It was some little time before the shouts and chants of wel- 
 come subsided, but presently the natives managed to restrain 
 their enthusiasm for a while and the formal welcome was pro- 
 ceeded with. The minister, mounting the steps of the veranda, 
 read in clear tones the following address of welcome from the 
 Maoris, a copy of which was furnished me by a friend in Auck- 
 land: 
 
 MAORIS ADDRESS OF WELCOME. 
 
 "Their Royal Highnesses, the Duke and Duchess of York: 
 Welcome, welcome, welcome. Oh, son, welcome to these isles, 
 Au-te-a-roa and Te-Waipounamu ! Welcome to Maoriland! 
 Welcome thou who art of the blood, the emblem of the mana, 
 the majesty of the empire, under whose rule we are proud to 
 abide. Oh, royal daughter of princess joined to him who is 
 son of our lord king, we likewise greet you ! We heard with 
 our ears, and hoped that we might see with our eyes, and re- 
 joice that this thing has come to pass in our day and genera- 
 
222 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 tion. This is a great day — a day that will live in the memory 
 of our race while God permits them existence. 
 
 "Yet it is a day of mourning. We mourn the great queen to 
 whom our fathers ceded by treaty the sovereignty over these 
 isles ; who was the guardian of our rights and liberties from 
 that time until she slept with her fathers. We, the humblest 
 of her children, alien in blood yet akin by law and allegiance, 
 mourn the loss of a mother who sought the good of high and 
 low alike; who loved peace that by peace among her people 
 they might rise yet higher in greatness. She was all that our 
 fathers knew in their day. Her name is a gift they bequeathed 
 to us ere they passed away. Pass, oh mother, to thy rest with 
 the mighty dead who went before thee ! 
 
 "Welcome! Welcome! Welcome! In the name of the 
 king, your father ! We hail the new king in your person ! He 
 has succeeded to the throne of his mother, to be our chief, our 
 lord, our sovereign. Here in the presence of your royal 
 highnesses we renew our oath of allegiance; we confirm the 
 act of our fathers, who gave all to Queen Victoria and her 
 successors. 
 
 "Hear, oh ye peoples, today we make a new treaty ; new and 
 yet old, inasmuch as we confirm the old, to which we but add 
 expressions of continued loyalty from our generation, land 
 pray that our sovereign and our white brethren may give us 
 of their strength to live and thrive with them and among 
 them. 
 
 "Hear, oh prince, hear, oh princess, from the far ends of the 
 earth, from remote Hawaiiki across the great seas of Kiwa 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 223 
 
 you have come to see these lands and people. It is well, for 
 by so doing you have drawn closer the bonds of love which 
 knit us all together. 
 
 ''Welcome and farewell! Farewell, since you must pass on! 
 It is enough that we have seen. We wish you a safe return to 
 our king and his queen, from whose presence you have come 
 to gladden our eyes in this, the most distant part of the em- 
 pire." 
 
 To this the duke replied at some length. His royal high- 
 nesses' remarks were interpreted in Maori by the minister for 
 the benefit of the assembled natives, who listened with a keen 
 attention, punctuating the speech with guttural ejaculations 
 expressive of evident appreciation.' 
 
 The following is a full text of the response, a copy being 
 furnished by a gentleman in !N@w Zealand. 
 
 THE DUKE'S KEPLT. 
 
 "To the Chiefs and Tribes of the Isles Autearoa and Wai- 
 pounamu : The warm words of welcome which you have spok- 
 en to the princess and myself have gladdened our heart3. 
 From the far ends of the earth, over the wide seas, we have 
 been sent by the great king, my father, to hear and behold in 
 their own beautiful land his children, the Maoris. The great 
 queen, whom your fathers knew and loved, and for whom you 
 mourn with us, and with all the natives and races under the 
 majesty of the empire, had, before she passed to her rest, de- 
 sired us to visit her people beyond the seas, to tell of her 
 great gratitude for the aid of those brave young men in the 
 
224 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 cruel war into which she, who ever loved and worked for 
 peace, had been driven. Proud and glad was the great queen 
 also that the sons of her Maori children, eager with love and 
 loyalty, longed to stand side by side with their brethren in 
 the field of battle. The king, my father, though his cup was 
 full of sorrow, and parting with us, his children, but added 
 to his bitterness, could not endure that her wish should pass 
 unfulfilled, and I come in his name and on his behalf to de- 
 clare to you the deep thankfulness of his heart for your loving 
 sympathy in his loss, and for the noble and tender words in 
 which you spoke your love and reverence for her memory. The 
 words of the Maoris are true words, the words of the generous 
 people who are ready to make good with the hands the promise 
 of the lips. To receive your pledges of loyalty, and to learn 
 from me that you have renewed your oath of allegiance and 
 confirmed the act of your fathers, who gave all to Queen Vic- 
 toria and her successors, will give joy to my father's heart, 
 and will fill him with strength and courage for the great work 
 that lies before him. The heart of the king is warm to his 
 people in ]STew Zealand. He rejoices to see them dwell to- 
 gether in peace and friendship, and prays that they may con- 
 tinue to be united and to strengthen each other in works of 
 peace, and that they also may strive for the common good and 
 in aiding him to keep one and united the many people under 
 his sway. If our visit helps to that end, we shall be glad to 
 count as naught the sacrifices we have made in order to see 
 your chiefs and you face to face in your beautiful country. 
 Of our brief visit to the Maoriland we shall carry with us last- 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 225 
 
 ing memories of the loyalty and love and generous kindness of 
 the Maori people. May peace, prosperity and every blessing 
 abide with you and yours forever." 
 
 When the duke had finished, his remarks being put into 
 beautiful Maori by the native minister, the latter led the 
 Maoris in a rousing old war song. The well known ancient 
 chant commencing "Kaimate, Kaimate, kiaora, kiaora," was 
 most appropriate to the occasion, being often used as a song 
 of welcome to guests. Impromptu as the song and dance were, 
 the Maoris infused into them a heartiness that marked the 
 spontaneity of their enthusiasm. One bare-legged veteran, in 
 full native costume, with an up-to-date top hat surmounting 
 his tattooed face, danced excitedly within a yard or two of the 
 royal couple, brandishing a taiaha as he chanted his song of 
 welcome. The air of amused pleasure with which the duchess 
 regarded the enthusiastic old man and his companions showed 
 that the novelty of the reception appealed strongly to her sense 
 of humor. The duke, too, seemed genuinely pleased with the 
 proceedings. After the dance of welcome the band struck up 
 the national anthem again, and the crowd cheered as loudly 
 as before, their royal highnesses acknowledging the salute 
 with a bow. The royal party then entered the hotel and the 
 crowd dispersed. 
 
 VISIT TO OHINEMUTTJ. 
 
 The duke and duchess were accorded a royal welcome when 
 they made their visit to the Arawa tribes gathered at the old 
 Maori village of Ohinemutu. The Arawas assembled about a 
 
226 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 thousand strong in front of the meeting house, Tamate-Ka- 
 pura, overlooking the stirring waters of Rotorua. A bright 
 sun and a blue sky favored the royal visit, which; was made 
 about half past ten o'clock. 
 
 The scene in the village square of Ohinemutu was a most 
 brilliant and picturesque one. Several hundreds of all sec- 
 tions of the Arawa men were gathered in two long rows, in 
 fighting costume, ready to greet the long expected duke. They 
 were stripped to the waist, with feathers in their hair. All 
 wore native hats and carried meres, taiahas and te whate- 
 whas. Behind them were gathered a great crowd of native 
 people, while at the entrance to the village a select party cf 
 forty women, in gala costumes, wearing blue sashes, flax 
 waist mats, and carrying green bows in their hands, were sta- 
 tioned to wave and sing a welcome to the royalties. They 
 were headed by a woman named Kiri Matou, better known 
 as the Duchess — the leader of women's dances at Rotorua. 
 
 The carved house was gay with flags. In front of the house 
 stood the Arawas' flagstaff, from which floated several large 
 ensigns. At the foot of the post the Arawas had mounted on 
 a carved pedestal the bust of Queen Victoria, presented to the 
 tribe thirty years ago by the Duke of Edinburgh, who visited 
 Ohinemutu in 18 71, when the place was in a very primitive 
 condition, and when the old fighting stockades still stood here. 
 Over the bust of the Queen was erected a handsome wooden 
 canopy, painted in Maori style. 
 
 In front of the parade of warriors sat old Major Fox of 
 the Ngatipikiao section of the Arawas, clothed in a fine feather 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 227 
 
 mat, and holding in his hand the claymore presented to him 
 many years ago for his services in the war. Other chiefs 
 representing all sections of the Arawa tribe were gathered 
 here to meet the royalties. Captain Hair was busy superin- 
 tending arrangements for the reception. 
 
 !At ten-thirty the royal carriage drove up with the duke and 
 duchess and their party. 
 
 The women sang and danced their powhiri of welcome, 
 waving their leafy boughs and retiring slowly backwards, still 
 singing in a musical rhyme as the royal party advanced to the 
 marae. The song greeted the duke in poetic language as being 
 drawn to these shores in the Arawa canoe, from the uttermost 
 ends of the earth, and the regions that lie beyond the horizon. 
 On reaching the marae, the duke and duchess were saluted 
 with great enthusiasm as they walked on to the center of the 
 plaza, the duchess with the native minister leading, followed 
 by the duke and Lord Ranfurly. Then came the Arawas' 
 formal song of welcome. The armed men were all kneeling 
 on the ground, facing the royalties, with their wooden weap- 
 ons held in front of them with both hands, led by their chiefs, 
 who ran up and down giving the time. The men of Te Arawa 
 sang in tremendous chorus their powhiri to the duke, keep- 
 ing time by waving their plumed weapons, with splendid pre- 
 cision, old Major Fox in front of the warriors nourishing his 
 glittering sword as his tribesmen yelled their long throated 
 welcome to the king's son. 
 
 At the conclusion of the martial song, the natives, still 
 kneeling, all saluted the duke and duchess, who were then es- 
 
228 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 corted to Tama-te-Kapua, crossing the Paepaepoto, and walk- 
 ing around the interior to inspect the curious historical carv- 
 ings on the slab panels with which the walls are decorated, 
 forming a picture gallery of the Arawas. The native minis- 
 ter acted as interpreter. After a few minutes spent in the 
 house, which was spread with fine mats for the occasion, the 
 royal party emerged and walked across the marae to the foot 
 of the flagstaff, where stood the bust of the late queen. Here 
 a number of Arawa chiefs and chieftainesses were in waiting 
 to receive the duke and duchess. The native minister, assisted 
 by his aide, introduced them to the royalties. 
 
 Two handsome young women of rank of the Arawa tribe 
 were in waiting to make presentations to the duke and duchess. 
 The ladies were Te Rongokahira and Te Paerakau Haere- 
 huka, both of whom are direct descendants of great chiefs 
 reigning over a hundred years ago. 
 
 The two chieftainesses now handed to the duchess a much 
 valued patupounama and greenstone weapon, an ancestral relic, 
 also a white kiwi feather tea cosey and a muff of brown kiwi 
 feathers. The green stone was a marriage gift to Rongoka- 
 hira from the Ngaiatahu, a south island tribe. It is known 
 to the Maoris by the name of Taratawa. 
 
 At the foot of the queen's statue were laid out several very 
 fine flax mantles and mats, together with a green stone mere. 
 These were the Arawa gifts to the duke and duchess. A tall 
 black bearded chief named Pirimi Matoihaia, of Whakarewa- 
 rewa, made a short speech in reference to the gifts of the 
 Arawa people, Captain Mair interpreting. Pirimi said: 
 
a fi 
 
 Z 
 
 n 
 
 m 
 
 C/5 
 
 CD 
 
 5 
 
 o 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 231 
 
 "We are spreading these Maori gifts before the statue of 
 our late majesty, Queen Victoria. This is in accordance with 
 the custom of laying down presents in memory of those who 
 are departed. They are tokens of our love, therefore we beg 
 your royal highness not to disregard these small presents, un- 
 worthy though they may be, but to take them with you. This 
 is all. We here are all the Karaws." 
 
 Their royal highnesses graciously acknowledged the gifts. 
 Pirimi also displayed before the eyes of royalty the Arawa 
 tribal ensign, a blue silk flag; heavily fringed, bearing the 
 words, "Te Arawa, 1870." Leaving the foot of the flagstaff 
 the royal couple and party walked up along the lines of the 
 armed men until they came to the tattooed veteran, Major Fox, 
 who, by reason of his feeble health, was seated in a chair. The 
 major rose and was presented to the royalties, who shook hands 
 with him. The old man's face lighted up with deep gratifi- 
 cation and pleasure as the duke and duchess inspected the 
 sword borne by the venerable soldier, which was sent to him 
 by Queen Victoria. The major, on being presented, handed 
 a green stone toki or ax to the duke as a token of his love and 
 regard. 
 
 The duchess, seeing the old chief was an invalid, asked him 
 why he had troubled to leave his bed to see them. He replied 
 gallantly that his love for the royal family was so great that 
 he could not stay at home. 
 
 Another song of welcome was sung in a lower key by a sec- 
 tion of Arawas behind Major Fox. Soon afterwards the duke 
 and duchess were escorted to their conveyance, which drove 
 
232 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 up to the marae for tliem. They took their leave of the Ara- 
 was amidst a scene of excited enthusiasm, the Maoris chant- 
 ing a farewell waiata in the fashion of native songs. This 
 was an old, well known chant, which appropriately bade sor- 
 rowing adieu to friends. 
 
 The duke and duchess bowed and smiled as they drove off, 
 the duke turning to the assembled people and raising his hat, 
 in which was displayed a huia feather, presented to him on 
 the marae, the rare plume which was the old Maori badge of 
 chieftainship. Then the royal couple drove away, followed 
 by the shrilly chorused farewells of the gaily garbed people, 
 whose minds will ever retain vivid memories of this all too 
 brief visit to the lakeside home of the Arawas, amongst boil- 
 ing springs of the historic Ohinemutu kianga. 
 
 whakarewaeewa's weird wondees. 
 
 From Ohinemutu the party drove to Whakarewarewa, arriv- 
 ing at eleven-thirty. They, were met by the Tuhourangi sec- 
 tion of the Arawa tribe, headed by Te Keepa, TJita Taupo- 
 poki and other leading chiefs, the natives cheering enthusias- 
 tically. They were shown Nelson's famous carved house at the 
 entrance to the village as they passed, and then proceeded along 
 the road to the bridge over Tuarenga creek. Here an arch of 
 welcome, handsomely decorated with ferns and lycopodium, 
 was erected on the bridge, with "Haere J Mai," the Maori wel- 
 come, written overhead. After crossing the bridge, their 
 highnesses and party alighted, and proceeded to the govern- 
 ment reserve. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 233 
 
 The government inspector led the way. Sophia, the 
 veteran, guide, and one of the few survivors at Wairo'a 
 during the famous Tarawera eruption, acted as guide to the 
 duchess, Maggie Papaqura, a handsome half-caste girl guiding 
 the duke. The first spot visited was the Wairoa geyser. The 
 inspector threw 1 in a quantity of soap, and in a few minutes 
 a magnificent column of boiling water burst forth, reaching 
 to the height of about one hundred feet. The geyser played 
 with immense activity for several minutes, making a grand 
 spectacle. 
 
 Returning through the native enclosure, the duke and party 
 stationed themselves on the bridge, and watched with great in- 
 terest and amusement the dusky native children diving from 
 the railings into the creek twenty feet below. The duchess 
 was highly amused at the antics of these excited little mor- 
 tals, who vied one with another in diving for a silver coin and 
 pennies thrown from the bridge above. Two tiny Maori girls 
 with a present of half a crown were each to dive from the bridge 
 for the benefit of the duchess. Nothing loath, the little mites 
 putting the coins for safety in their mouths, jumped boldly 
 from the rail amidst great laughter and applause. A band 
 of Maori girls in bright-colored blouses danced the graceful 
 poi dance. As the royal party passed along from th.3 village, 
 the brass band played the national anthem and the crowd 
 cheered lustily. Both the duke and the duchess appeared 
 thoroughly pleased with the curious sights witnessed. 
 
234 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 CARNIVAL OF THE TRIBES. 
 
 It is a curious and striking scene that meets the eye. Massed 
 in the center of the ground are the dancers, every man in 
 full fighting costume, stripped to the waist, and wearing mats 
 of rustling flax, each carrying a long pointed spear. Over 
 the dusky warriors flags of every tribe assembled flutter in 
 the breeze, which the huge ensign "porourangi," of the Kgati- 
 porou, with its crescent moon and star standing out against 
 •the dark blue background, to the 'tiny bannerets carried by 
 some of the tribes. In front of Wangamui natives wave their 
 white Motea ensign, presented by Queen Victoria to the de- 
 fenders of Mopea. Another much prized flag, the red ensign 
 of the !Ngatihuia, presented at Otaki by Lord Onslow. The 
 flags, spears, and columns of dusky warriors combined to lend 
 a very martial air to the scene, and the white tents of the 
 big encampment in the distant background enhance the mil- 
 itary effect. To the left are the poi dancers, dressed alter- 
 nately in red and white, in a huge semi-circle. Around the 
 enclosure runs the black line of spectators, while the stands 
 on either side the royal pavilion are crammed to their utmost 
 limits. Overhead is a blue unclouded sky, the whole en- 
 closure being bathed in brilliant sunshine. 
 
 It is a long wait till ten o'clock When royalties are due, and 
 the tribes fill in the time practicing their dances and songs 
 of welcome. Others squat upon their haunches, jabbering ex- 
 citedly. Tour brawny warriors approach the royal pavilion, 
 bearing on their shoulders the ten-foot model of the famous 
 Rawa canoe, laden with gifts for the royal couple. The canoe 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 235 
 
 is placed upon the stand, and alongside the natives plant the 
 blue banner of the Arawas, a flag presented them in 1870 by 
 the Duke of Edinburg. 
 
 Shortly before ten loud cheering announced the arrival of 
 the duke and duchess. The former was carrying in his right 
 hand the green stone adze, presented to him by Major Fox, 
 while the duchess carried a fine mere also presented to her. 
 Their royal highnesses, on taking their seats in the pavilion, 
 were presented by the minister's wife with mats, which she 
 fastened around their shoulders. The duke's mat was of dog 
 skin, with a beautiful border, while the duchess wore a mat 
 of kiwi feathers. 
 
 The tuhoe drum and fife band played the national anthem 
 as the party took their seats and the leading East Coast chiefs 
 assembled in line before the grand stand to greet their royal 
 guests. 
 
 Immediately in front of the royal stand were massed the 
 great body of the Maoris in battle array, in close formation 
 of column, or "matua," each tribe forming a sort of square 
 in compact bodies of armed men, all stripped to the waist, flax 
 kilts or shawls around their waists, their faces daubed wnth 
 black and blue war paint, and their hair decorated with feath- 
 er plumes. The sight was an exceedingly war-like one, as the 
 ■tribes yelling their battle songs, fell in companies on the 
 parade ground. They crouched down a short distance in front 
 of the stand, weapons in hand, waiting for the arrival of 'the 
 royalties. About two thousand Maoris were gathered here 
 
236 AROUND THK WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 to take part in the dances, while almost another three thousand 
 natives were spectators. 
 
 As the royal party took their seats the great body of the 
 people, wildly excited, rose up with spears and wax axes in 
 hand. 
 
 Then began a splendid martial scene, the like of which will 
 never be seen again in New Zealand. The Ngapuhis performed 
 a war dance and then moved off. Then came Te Arawa, who 
 also with their weapons in hand, went through the warlike drill 
 with machine-like precision, singing in great chorus a song of 
 welcome, roared from several hundred throats, led by old 
 Major Fox, who, sword in hand, danced wonderfully ener- 
 getically. 
 
 Then came the war dance of the ISJgaiterangi tribe, from Tau- 
 ranga, armed with sharp spears, and with white feathers stuck 
 in their hair. They sang their welcome song, then yelled the 
 well-known old war song, beginning "kia kutia," etc. A Wan 
 Ganui tribe, dressed only in flax waist mats, danced some splen- 
 did hakas, which were loudly applauded as they moved off. 
 
 At intervals in the dancing the ceremony of presenting gifts 
 to the royal visitors took place. A line of men and women 
 advanced, facing the ranks, and deposited their treasures at 
 the royal pavilion at the feet of the duke and duchess. Every 
 tribe had given its most precious heirlooms, and some were 
 very rare and priceless in their historic associations — meres 
 of whalebone and greenstone, beautifully worked mats of 
 kiwi feathers or colored flax handsome feather kits, korowais, 
 and puipuis in wonderful variety of form and color. One gift 
 
AROUND THK WORLD IN THE NAVY 237 
 
 was an old-time banner of flax, another a beautiful mat of 
 pigeon feathers. The gifts, numbering dozens, were piled high 
 in a heap on the floor of the pavilion before the royal couple, 
 and the minister's wife fastened a handsome green stone piki 
 around the duchess' neck. The Maoris' address of welcome, 
 beautifully framed, was laid on top of the pile. 
 
 THE EOYAL MEDALS. 
 
 There were thirty-six chiefs who received medals from 
 the duke, among them Major Fox (Pokiha Taranui). The 
 aged 'Major Fox was the last man to be decorated by his royal 
 highness. The old man wrapped in his korowai sat in a chair 
 before the table where the duke presided. When his turn 
 came, he arose to his feet, leaning on his taiaha, and the crowd 
 cheered loudly as the duke, with royal courtesy, advanced from 
 the table and himself pinned the medal on the aged warrior's 
 breast. All the medals were stamped with the heads of the 
 duke and the duchess, and inscribed in commemoration of their 
 visit to the colonies, with the date, 1901. 
 
 THE CHILDREN'S FETE. 
 
 When a small band of children are engaged in those exer- 
 cises taught them in the public schools, the effect is interest- 
 ing, but when they are seen in regiments, thronging a space 
 X)f several acres, the result is surprising and full of interest. 
 You see twenty thousand hands flash into the air simultaneously, 
 ten thousand pliant young bodies bending together rhythmi- 
 cally but with machine-like regularity, and 'the movements 
 stir you strangely. 
 
238 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 Perhaps the prettiest item of the day's play was the May- 
 pole dancing, in which several companies of quaintly clad 
 and pretty little girls took part, dancing with all that sim- 
 plicity and grace which seemed to be part of the life and na- 
 ture of healthy, happy children. The weaving bright ribbons 
 as the dancing sprites moved in and out, seemed; to pulse in 
 time with the music and flow into the melody, a feast of color. 
 
 Youngsters, of both sexes, dressed in the familiar fancy cos- 
 tumes of the Scotch, the Irish, Welsh, and English, and chil- 
 dren in costumes too numerous to specify/, danced, marched, 
 exercised and sang, and whatever they did was done with a 
 verve that carried a glow of satisfaction to the breasts of the 
 spectators, whose ejaculations spoke the creative pride and the 
 magnificent delight of papa and mamma. 
 
 The singing of the children was pleasant and a proof of 
 excellent training and good management. A few regiments of 
 cadets recited in one voice "The Charge of the Six Hundred," 
 with appropriate music and suitable gestures. "Sabring the gun- 
 ners there," with a brave flashing of bayonets. The mirror drill 
 display was another pleasant exhibition of effective work; in 
 fact, nothing the kiddies did was done ill, and they always 
 succeeded in conveying some of the delight they felt themselves 
 to the spectators. 
 
 RETURN OF THE BROOKLYN TO SYDNEY. 
 
 On June 15th, the flagship returned to Sydney, Australia, 
 where she was thrown open for inspection by the public. An 
 official ball was given by the admiral to the high officials on 
 shore, as at the other places visited by the Brooklyn. 
 
Tea House ; One Hundred and One Steps ; Yokohama, Japan. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 241 
 
 Here the vessel was docked and underwent necessary re- 
 pairs prior to returning to Manila. 
 
 The fourth of July was celebrated in Sydney harbor, which 
 is a port of English sentiment, by the usual sports, such as 
 boat racing, climbing greased poles, and various contests which 
 generally go to make a celebration of Independence Day. At 
 night a variety performance was given by our minstrel troupe, 
 on board the Brooklyn, which was largely attended and ap- 
 parently enjoyed by friends of the jackies on shore. 
 
 So did we conduct ourselves in Australia and New Zealand, 
 and it is hoped that the visit of the flagship Brooklyn did 
 much to cement the goodwill between the United States and 
 these colonies, and to elevate, if possible, the many resident 
 Americans who treated us so royally, in the estimation of 
 their neighbors, the colonists. 
 
 The morning of July 7th, 1901, was spent in gazing for the 
 last time upon the shores of ISTew South Wales, as we slowly 
 steamed out of the harbor of Sydney, bound for Manila, Phil- 
 ippine Islands, via Albany, West Australia, and Batavia, 
 Java. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 RETURN TO MANILA! BOAT RACING WITH BATTLESHIP KEN- 
 TUCKY ADVANCEMENT OF PHILIPPINES THE BEST 
 
 PLAN POR PACIFICATION. 
 
 T 
 
 'HE RETURN to Manila was a pleasant one, and our 
 
 friends in the bay were delighted with the stories we 
 
 had to tell the colonies. While Manila is not the most 
 
 pleasant place in the world, it did seem good to see '"old glory" 
 
 waving over the forts, and one felt to a certain extent he was 
 
 home again. 
 
 Not long, however, were we to enjoy the pleasures of quiet 
 life in the bay alongside of the beef-boat, for Admiral Remey 
 found it necessary to proceed in a few weeks to the north. 
 
 Before we left Manila, the Kentucky, flagship of the junior 
 squadron, Commander Rear Admiral Kempff, formerly senior 
 squadron commander, challenged the flagship Brooklyn for a 
 boat race between the two ships' apprentice boys, with their 
 race boats. The crews to be all boys who were to pull four 
 miles. 
 
 We were not in a fair position to lose much money, as Aus- 
 tralia had been a very pleasant place to visit, and pleasure, I 
 have found, costs money. But the Kentucky was persistent;, 
 and with the navy yard and other ships in the harbor she 
 managed to make up a purse of $13,000. Well, we had to 
 put up our mess money and almost "pawn our socks," but 
 we covered it. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 243 
 
 When the Brooklyn's boat racing boys appeared, there was a 
 "howl" from the Kentucky, — she wanted to race her big boys, 
 who had been in special training for three months, against our 
 boys, who were too busy sight-seeing to train, but who had 
 managed during our colonial cruise to win five or six races 
 from the Australians and New Zealanders, but our boys, 
 though all under age, were the biggest lot of six-footers on the 
 ship. 
 
 The boats were towed out to the starting point, opposite 
 Manila, and at the crack of the revolver got off together. 
 
 Tremendous excitement prevailed on both these great flag- 
 ships, their crews of approximately six hundred people, were 
 crowded and perched upon every available point of vantage. 
 
 Johnnie Davis, of Santiago cable-cutting fame, coxswain of 
 the Brooklyn's cutter, launched ahead from the first, and as 
 we watched through our glasses the steady stroke of these big 
 boys of Uncle Sam, there came simultaneously from the throats 
 of both ships' crews alike a great cheer in admiration. In 
 perfect time, without a single command, the oars of both boats 
 dipped and pulled like clockwork, while, as they grew closer, 
 the brawny muscles of every man could be traced as they played 
 back and forth on the oars. 
 
 Admiral Kemey's flag of rank is a small blue flag, with two 
 white stars; Almiral KempfT's, when in company with his 
 senior, is red, with two white stars. In appropriate imita- 
 tion, the boats' crews had adopted these colors respectively. 
 
 Thirteen thousand dollars is a considerable sum of money 
 to men of the navy and on both ships they were shouting eu- 
 
244 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 couraging words to their boats. Though excitement prevailed 
 on the ships, the boats' crews appeared cool and collected. 
 Coxswain Davis, with his body swaying back and forth in true 
 race boat fashion, steered the little craft in a masterly way. 
 So cleverly did lie meet the choppy sea that hardly a drop of 
 spray fell upon his men during the entire race. They feathered 
 and pulled as one man, driving her through the water at a 
 great pace, as smoothly as if she were propelled by machin- 
 ery. 
 
 There is something exciting about a boat race that exceeds 
 that of other races. A feeling that the muscles and skill of 
 men cause her to rise and fall so steadily, forging ahead, as 
 to almost seem to be a thing of life, makes one feel akin to 
 the contestants. 
 
 As they neared the Brooklyn, her band struck up the "Stars 
 and Stripes," bringing forth a cheer that shook to her keel 
 this great fighting ship. 
 
 All this did not seem to affect the crews of the race boats, 
 both the blue and the red kept on methodically, the red strain- 
 ing every nerve to regain lost ground. 
 
 Strain as they might, it was plainly impossible for the 
 Kentucky's boys to win, but in order to lessen the number of 
 strokes of her disgrace, she kept bravely on until, with a 
 shout of exultation, the Brooklyn's boat crossed the line, and 
 waving the blue flag wildly, Johnnie Davis ordered his men to 
 "toss oars," while every man in the bay commenced to count 
 the strokes of disgrace it cost the Kentucky's boat to reach goal. 
 Loud enough for the Kentucky to hear, we counted strokes as 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 245 
 
 they were taken up to one hundred and forty-six, when the 
 poor, crestfallen crew finally tossed oars across the line. 
 
 With the band playing "There'll Be a Hot Time in the Old 
 Town Tonight," we sent a steamer over to the Kentucky to 
 bring off the purse, and the committee reported the "sorest" 
 ship's company imaginable. 
 
 For the next few days there was plenty of shore liberty in 
 Manila. Everybody had money, and it was very amusing to 
 see the boat loads of liberty men pull past the Kentucky on their 
 way ashore, shouting in derision at their defeat. Very few 
 liberty parties from the Kentucky that month. 
 
 A few days after the events narrated above, Pete O'Hare, a 
 very jolly old Irish fireman, when returning from liberty at 
 night, lost his balance, and fell overboard from the little 
 steamer Barcelo, and was never again seen. Though searching 
 parties were immediately sent out to drag that part of the 
 bay, it was of no avail, and poor Pete was left at the mercy of 
 the sharks of Manila Bay. 
 
 As is customary on such occasions, the sailors on the 
 Brooklyn, rather than wound the pride of his mother by con- 
 tributing a purse, sold his clothes at auction. For instance, 
 an old sock, hat or other article of little intrinsic value, would 
 be sold for five dollars, then returned to the auctioneer to again 
 find a buyer. In this manner over $600 was contributed to 
 his mother. 
 
 One sunny afternoon about the time of which I am writing, I 
 happened to glance out of a port toward the city of Manila, and 
 beheld the strangest condition of atmosphere I have ever wit- 
 
246 AROUND THE WORLD IN THB NAVY 
 
 nessed. The water was smooth as a sheet of glass, the sky 
 black with dense clouds, through which jagged shafts of light- 
 ning shrieked and roared with the ferocity of a maddened lion. 
 The air was sultry and hot. Afar off in the mountains I de- 
 tected swaying and bending among the cocoanut trees, which 
 denoted the presence of wind. 
 
 Steadily, but surely, it grew closer and closer to the bay, 
 gathering force as it advanced until, in about two minutes, it 
 struck the water almost like a blow from some tremendous 
 unearthly power, and in less than a minute had reached the 
 ship, and coming broadside on, rolled her over to starboard be- 
 fore she had time to swing at her anchor. The waves came up 
 almost incredibly quick and in less time than I take to write 
 this, a tremendous sea rolled, tossed and roared in Manila 
 Bay. 
 
 Small native boats could be seen making for the beach when 
 the storm first appeared, but, poor devils, they were caught 
 in a death trap, and some of them went down before our 
 eyes. The bay is full of sharks, that no doubt are well fed. 
 
 In about twenty minutes the wind was all gone, the weather 
 returned to its former brightness, leaving a high sea as the 
 only sign of the typhoon's visit. The ship acted nobly, but 
 it was a severe ordeal and she tugged and groaned at her an- 
 chor chains like a great animal in captivity, terrified to mad- 
 ness and unable to escape. Her awnings were barely saved 
 by prompt action on the part of the officer-of-the-deck, who, 
 on the first appearance of the typhoon, called his men on deck 
 and furled all canvas. A boat load of fresh beef at the gang- 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 247 
 
 way was torn loose and swept away, leaving us to subsist on 
 canned and salt provisions a few days. 
 
 Before the storm all was peace and comfort aboard the 
 ship, but in twenty minutes misery reigned; ports were closed, 
 hatch-covers on, decks wet, the vessel rolling and pitching, while 
 many of her crew felt that terrible monster to grapple with — 
 seasickness. 
 
 How well this shows us that we may be taken any moment. 
 It recalls to one the nearness of the end and cautions him as to 
 his daily life. 
 
 ADVANCEMENT OF THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 ! As this work is not intended to take up exhaustively the 
 history of the Philippines, the labors of Professor Dean C. 
 Worcester, in his book on the Philippine Islands, is respect- 
 fully recommended to those who may desire more complete in- 
 formation. 
 
 Professor Worcester writes from personal experience of the 
 islands, long before they were brought to the notice of the 
 United States, having made three different trips of extended 
 research. His work is scholarly, and is considered authentic 
 by learned authorities. 
 
 The Philippine Islands lie in a part of the world of which 
 little was known in the earlier centuries, except vagU'j rumors 
 that vast wealth was there, ready to be taken by any adven- 
 turous navigator, who could reach it. But as time rolled slowly 
 on the piratical epoch came and departed, leaving in its train, 
 as its only good, the disillusion of the world as to fabulous 
 wealth obtainable in the orient without labor. Wealth is there ; 
 
248 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 but, instead of picking up gold in the streets and hills, it must 
 be won through commercial industry. 
 
 These facts, when finally brought to light during the pe- 
 riod of (exploration of the fifteenth century, in which Colum- 
 bus discovered America, and Ferdinand Magellan, or Hernando 
 Maghellanes, a Portuguese nobleman, representing Charles I., 
 King of Spain, undertaking the discovery of new Spice Islands, 
 left Spain in August, 1519, and after perilous adventures, 
 landed at Cebu, Philippine Islands, on August 7, 1521, caused 
 nations to seek new territory. 
 
 He had stopped for a time at the Island of Mindanao, 
 where making friends with the natives, he learned of the rich- 
 ness of Cebu from a native chief, who finally piloted the ex- 
 pedition to Cebu. 
 
 The natives at Cebu saw the great ships coming and were 
 alarmed, but the chieftain from Mindanao, being a brother of 
 their king, assured them that the strangers had come with 
 friendly intent and only desired food. The king, thereupon, 
 proposed to make a treaty with Magellan, with both Spanish 
 and native ceremony. The Spanish ally welcomed the proposi- 
 tion he had come so far to obtain, and bringing his men on shore, 
 impressive ceremonies were held. The king and members of his 
 royal household were baptized, the customary exchange of 
 blood was made, and allegiance sworn to their new master, the 
 king of Spain. 
 
 To further win the good will of the king of Cebu, Ma- 
 gellan entered with him into his native wars with his own 
 men and arms, but was wounded in a skirmish on the little 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 249 
 
 island of Mactan, within a year, and died there, without 
 ever enjoying the harvest of his labors. I have visited his 
 tomb, and, as I stood near it, reading the Spanish inscriptions 
 thereon, it occurred to me that many great men have thus 
 been cut off from the enjoyment of their earnings by an am- 
 bition too great and harmful to others. 
 
 When Magellan was no more, the expedition, though they 
 endeavored to carry out his plans, soon went to pieces, and 
 only one of the five original ships ever returned to Spain, the 
 first vessel to circumnavigate the globe. 
 
 The king of Spain organized other expeditions, but it 
 was over forty years before the islands were reduced to act- 
 ual possession. 
 
 The present deplorable state of the Philippine Islands is 
 directly responsible, in my opinion, to Philip II., in whose 
 honor they were named, who inspired by religious zeal, or 
 the devil, as may be, set out to conquer and convert the Fili- 
 pinos to Catholocism, thereby adding them to the already long 
 list of nations that, adopting Catholocism, failed to prosper. 
 
 Miguel Lopez de Legaspi, with six Augustine monks, left 
 Spain for the Philippines in 1563, where he arrived first at 
 Camaguin and touching at Bohul, decided to invade Cebu. 
 The king, being suspicious, sent a spy to report on the Span- 
 iards. The man returned with ridiculous stories of ships 
 manned by giants in magnificent robes, who drank fire and 
 blue smoke out of their mouths. This settled the king, and 
 when Legaspi landed, in April, 1565, to take possession of 
 Cebu, the king welcomed him, but the natives wera auspicious 
 
250 AROUND THE WORLD IN THK NAVY 
 
 and soon made strong attacks on his parly. However, he 
 withstood them, and also threw off the Portuguese who made 
 claims to the islands. 
 
 In 1570 Legaspi's grandson, Soleedo, was sent with an ex- 
 pedition to subdue Luzon. The first city council of Manila 
 was established in June, 1571, and forms of government en- 
 acted. In 1572 Legaspi died, adding one more to the list of 
 energetic martyrs for ambition. 
 
 During the next three centuries, attempts were made by 
 various powers, to wrest the islands from Spain. Chinese 
 overrunning the archipelago were massacred or deported, 
 their property being divided between the state and holy Cath- 
 olic church. 
 
 During this time nine attempts were made by Spain to 
 subdue the Sulu Islands, but in each attempt failure was their 
 only rew 7 ard. 
 
 Insurrection has existed in the Philippine Islands since 
 1622 ; its causes, the same that have provoked the more recent 
 revolts — tyranny of the Catholic church and burdensome taxes 
 levied by ch">"^i mid state alike. 
 
 So has the existence of the Filipinos been burdened with in- 
 surrection, tyranny and war since the time of Magellan. They 
 have never had an opportunity, and it is not beyond my com- 
 prehension why they are not more highly civilized today. 
 
 When Dewey steamed into Manila Bay, the Filipino was in 
 active insurrection against his old time foe; he welcomed the 
 appearance of "old glory," almost as the coming of an angel 
 of promise ; but his centuries of betrayal and tyrannical gov- 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 251 
 
 ernment had so biased his mind that he was unable to un- 
 derstand the signs of honest authority. His greatest misfor- 
 tune was that he failed to recognize his savior. 
 
 Among the higher class of natives, it is now understood 
 and their ignorant rebellion against the United States gov- 
 ernment is deplored. 
 
 Though no actual proof is in my possession with which to 
 back a positive assertion, I may state as my belief that the 
 Catholic priests advise, order and often compel the Filipinos to 
 fight the United States government against their will, while, 
 at the same time, the priests pretend in their associations with 
 American officials to do all in their power in quelling the in- 
 surrection. 
 
 Since Americans have taken control, the advancement to- 
 ward higher things has been amazing. Schools, roads, machin- 
 ery, modern planting, water traffic, and communication have 
 improved one hundred per cent. 
 
 Today the Filipino, with brains, strength and ambition, 
 may attain any height. Opportunities surround him and many 
 are taking advantage of them. Never before in the history of 
 his country has the Filipino known such good fortune. 
 
 If the present policy of our government is carried out in 
 the Philippines, twenty years will make the islands habit- 
 able and a pleasant place to live. They are rich in fruits, ver- 
 dure and every growth conducive to a pleasant, tropical home. 
 Modern irrigation, sewerage, etc., will also take away much of 
 the danger from fevers. 
 
252 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 If the United States father the Philippines, I predict a 
 
 great future for them. 
 
 THE BEST PLAN FOR PACIFICATION. 
 
 General Otis early recognized education as the best civilizer 
 and recommended public schools as a military measure. To 
 tame a Filipino; first, catch him; then, teach him that it is 
 easier and more pleasant to be good; and you have him civ- 
 ilized; otherwise "skin" him. 
 
 With education distributed freely among the former class 
 and hemp and buckshot among the latter, there is little doubt 
 in my mind that they can soon be pacified. I would rec- 
 ommend the latter means of pacifying some of the priests 
 who have double dispositions. 
 
 What can you expect of a Filipino when thousands of good, 
 sensible Americans are so superstitious that they will not 
 move a broom or a cat, move in the dark of the moon, will not 
 sit thirteen at table, commence a lengthy piece of work on 
 Friday, and countless other ideas too numerous to set forth 
 here? The Filipino has for generations been accustomed to 
 believe and obey the Catholic priests; do you think he will 
 begin now to doubt when told by them that Americans wish 
 only to steal their homes and kill them? Will it not take ed- 
 ucation, and plenty of it, to teach these "old dogs" new tricks ? 
 Why not remove the cause ? We will suppose, for example, that 
 the United States government will select one hundred of the 
 most intelligent Filipinos, and subject them to a vote of the 
 people in the islands to elect twenty-five men to form a con- 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVV 253 
 
 gress to represent their people. Let us appoint twenty-five peo- 
 ple here, the same way to meet with them, in consideration of 
 a plan of independent government for the islands. 
 
 Let them draw up this plan and submit it to the congress 
 and president of the United States. If approved, then let 
 the Philippine-American congress set a figure that shall cover 
 all expense incurred by the United States in behalf of the 
 Philippine Islands. When a figure has been set let the islands 
 form a United Island government of their own, within cer- 
 tain limits, prescribed by said Philippine- American congress, 
 under the protection of the United States government and pay 
 from their United Island treasury, in a given number of years, 
 what Uncle Sam has spent on them. 
 
 I do not presume to such height as the ability to suggest the 
 proper manner or form of government these people should 
 have, but it is evident to me that, if Uncle Sam's army is kept- 
 there much longer trying to "lick" these poor people, and in- 
 cidentally draw good salaries, which a few of them draw, the 
 figure it will be necessary to name would buy more than one 
 such archipelago. 
 
 To illustrate the common, every-day state of affairs in the 
 Philippines, I will draw a word picture of a scene familiar 
 to those who have lived in these islands. 
 
 A native cart was slowly moving along the road leading north 
 from San Fabian, a water buffalo between the shafts, the 
 cart being loaded with small bags of rice and coffee. It was 
 a very warm evening, and the roads were exceedingly bad, 
 so that the buffalo was taking his own time, frequently lying 
 
254 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 down to cool himself in the numerous mud puddles along the 
 way. 
 
 A native man in the Filipino dress, and a woman were fol- 
 lowing this droll conveyance, and if any one had taken pains 
 to notice so common an occurrence as this manner of travel, 
 he might have seen that the native was unusully large and mus- 
 cular, nearly equal in physique to the average American. The 
 woman, also, was above the average height of the Filipinos of 
 this locality, Avell rounded and extremely graceful and comely 
 in appearance. 
 
 The man wore a large straw hat, the rim hanging down 
 over his eyes ; a pair of abbreviated linen trousers and a gauzy 
 shirt fluttering loosely outside his trousers in the breeze. He 
 wore a belt with a bolo at his side and carried a short buffalo 
 whip in his hand. 
 
 The woman wore no shoes or stockings; a pair of sandals 
 of native use on her feet, a single piece of cloth about two 
 yards long by one in depth, was wrapped around her waist a 
 couple of times and tucked in, in place of being pinned or but- 
 toned, reaching below the knees. Underneath this she wore 
 a white cotton chimese, cut low in the neck, which, being like 
 the waist over it, rather gauzy, revealed dimly the daintily 
 rounded bosom and was gorgeously embroidered about the 
 neck. Over this she wore a loose, gauzy waist only reaching 
 half way to the skirt, with very large flowing short sleeves. The 
 waist was not belted, and lacked, perhaps, six inches of meet- 
 ing the skirt, as is the prevailing fashion. On her head was a 
 large straw hat, similar to the senior. Her hair was jet black. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 255 
 
 very fine, and if unrolled would have reached her knees. It 
 was worn combed up in front and laying in great rolls and 
 braids on her head and neck. Barring the cocoanut grease 
 covering her hair, it might have been the envy of the proudest 
 queen. A string of beads clung about her neck, which she 
 would count occasionally, mumbling a prayer as she did so. 
 
 Just as the sun went below the horizon, on the banana 
 cropped knoll near the sea, the man guided' his buffalo to an 
 open spot on one side of the road, unfastened his harness, and 
 after giving him a drink at a spring near by, tethered him in 
 a grass plot and returned to the woman, who was busily en- 
 gaged in preparing some rice and curry for cooking. He gath- 
 ered a few dry sticks and started a little fire over which she 
 hung ;the pot to cook. He then climbed a neighboring cocoa- 
 nut tree and secured several green nuts, cut from a stalk near 
 by some green bananas for frying, and after digging a few 
 yams, carried them back to the camp and they busied themselves 
 in silence in preparing the evening, "chow." 
 
 When supper was over, the woman first attended to the 
 small supply of dishes, then touching him on the arm, she made 
 several rapid motions with the fingers; he was, apparently, 
 deaf and dumb, for he answered in the same manner, and 
 picking up a polished cocoanut shell, went to the spring and 
 filled it with pure cold water, and gave it to her. 
 
 When they were settled comfortably, squatting upon the 
 ground, he pulled a home made cigar of gigantic proportions 
 out of his pocket, and lighting it in the fire, proceeded to en- 
 joy one of the chief comforts of the orient. His companion 
 
256 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 lit a native, home made cigarette and 'together they sat in 
 silence, only interrupted by an occasional talking with the 
 fingers or a smile. After a while she produced from a hidden 
 pocket a small bundle of green leaves. Slowly unrolling the 
 package, she disclosed a number of smaller leaves of different 
 varieties, took some in her mouth, and after chewing them a 
 moment, added a small bit of a peculiar salve-like mixture 
 and the chew was complete. The degree of perfection shown 
 by the deepening tint of carmine in the saliva. To a Euro- 
 pean such a mess would seem disgusting, but she appeared 
 to enjoy it, and after getting it into good working order, hand- 
 ed the package to her companion, who proceeded to manufac- 
 ture his own "chew." 
 
 They would have appeared a queer pair in civilization, as 
 they squatted there in the firelight, smoking and chewing that 
 nasty mess. But as the fire lighted up the scenery, the extreme 
 beauty of the young woman must have been seen. Her face 
 was delicately round, with the most roguish dimples in both 
 her brown cheeks and chin. They sat by the fire, while she 
 listened to the sound of the buffalo munching grass nearby, 
 an occasional flapping of wings, as a night bird or vampire 
 passed overhead, and a steady hum from the swarms of mos- 
 quitos which continually worried them. When they had fin 1 - 
 ished smoking, the woman arose, made a few signs on her fin- 
 gers, and with her dark face wreathed in most bewitching 
 smiles, climbed up into the cart and lay down upon the sacks, 
 the man most carefully and tenderly covering her with some 
 native mosquito bars lying in the cart. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 257 
 
 This is the present mode of travel in the Philippines. In 
 twenty years, with energetic management, it is possible to 
 change all these things into modern conveniences. It is pos- 
 sible to so improve these foreign possessions that men of busi- 
 ness, brains and capital, inured to the comforts of civilized 
 lands, will be willing to go there and improve to a higher 
 plane these beautiful islands so richly endowed by nature. 
 
 It is the object of this chapter to state plainly my opinion 
 of the best plan for the pacification and advancement of these 
 islands. Given in brief : Give them what they want, their in- 
 dependence ; but hold a mortgage, so to speak, upon their coun- 
 try until Uncle Sam has received every dollar they have cost 
 him. On the other hand, if Uncle Sam desires a plaything 
 with which to experiment, or a place in which his young braves 
 may have an opportunity to sharpen their claws in preparation 
 for any real fighting he may later require of them, or if he de- 
 sires to spend his money and lives of his boys in the civilization 
 and improvement of the Philippines from a Christian and chari- 
 table standpoint, and is willing to take so great a moral responsi- 
 bility as the control of eight million people or more, with 
 whom he is rather inexperienced, then let him continue as he 
 is at present conducting affairs. 
 
 Why are the Philippine Islands in our possession ? 
 
 Was it because Spain was spanking the Filipinos too hard ? 
 
 Was it because the Filipino is a nice little boy and we jusr, 
 simply liked him so well that we want to spank him a little 
 ourselves ? 
 
258 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 Was it because he had a rich country, and "poor Uncle Sam 
 needed it ?" 
 
 Was it because "poor old Spain" was hard up and w r e 
 just wanted to give her a little "lift" of "twenty million or so ? 
 
 Was it because we needed a coaling station on the other side 
 of the world? We could store quite a lit'tle coal on the Phil- 
 ippines, if we could just get these eight million people out of 
 the way ; but as it is they might walk off with it or throw 
 it at us. 
 
 Maybe it was because Dewey "licked" poor old Montijo in 
 Manila Bay and therefore "just simply had to swipe" the 
 Spanish possessions while we had an opportunity and an ex- 
 cuse. 
 
 Maybe we will find out in about a century that Spain licked 
 us after all. If she wanted to get rid of the islands, and sell 
 some of her old obsolete ships for a good round figure, it 
 would have been the best plan to carry out her part as she did. 
 Of course, I understand that a couple or three of her ships 
 were modern, but it would at least have been necessary to 
 make a "show" of resistance. I don't think this waf3 quite the 
 reason of our possession, but it is about as plausible as some 
 others. 
 
 Perhaps Uncle Sam wanted to make a lot of fine looking 
 army and navy officers and give them good "jobs." It is a 
 shame that some of 'these nice looking sons of shrewd old dads 
 did not have good "jobs" before the war. But then, I should 
 not speak lightly of them, because they really earn their 
 money. They are brave, the brass collared ones, and look 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 259 
 
 pretty on parade. Why, you ought to see how they love each 
 other ! It is simply too sweet to see how quickly, when Cap- 
 tain or Lieutenant Smith shoots a bloodthirsty old Filipino 
 and wife, with half a dozen children or so, or Ensign So and 
 So, in command of the captured Spanish ship So and So, a 
 little gunboat about the size of a steam launch or tug, bom- 
 bards a bamboo "shack" or sinks a canoe load of fishermen, 
 I say it is just too cunning to see how quickly a brother officer 
 will write a nice high sounding letter to <the secretary of war, 
 or the navy, praising the brave conduct of his dear gallant 
 brother at arms, and recommending him for promotion ! 
 
 JSTow, on this subject, let me make a serious remark in favor 
 of many brave officers and men who have served their country 
 faithfully in the Philippines. There has been a great deal 
 of hard fighting there and thousands of men and officers have 
 fought bravely and honestly, with no expectation of reward. 
 Many of them fell. Many have received wounds that inca- 
 pacitate them for life. They are one and all brave fellows, 
 deserving of all the honor and praise it is possible to give them. 
 Every man who fights in the orient is deserving of some re- 
 ward. But, on the other hand, there are a few like those I 
 have ridiculed above, who are too worthless to ever perform 
 any real brave deed that are constantly throwing bouquets 
 at each other, when they are not browbeating the enlisted men 
 under them, and who spend their time in seeking promotion by 
 such means. 
 
 Are the Philippines in our possession because we really 
 wanted or needed them ? 
 
260 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 Do we need them now ? 
 
 Have we so many boys and so much money to spare ? 
 
 Are there no places in all this great country where a few ex- 
 tra million dollars could be |3pent to aid, clothe, feed, educate 
 and improve the general circumstances of our own people ? 
 
 Do the Filipinos want us there? 
 
 Do we want them here to run the lUnited States ? 
 
 Did we want the British to run the United States in 1812 ? 
 
 Did Spain have the absolute right to sell the Philippines to 
 us? 
 
 Were they Spain's to sell? 
 
 Are the Philippines ours because we have acquired them 
 according to the sentiment of the Declaration of Independence ? 
 
 Are they ours because a "bunch" of men, sent to Paris to 
 represent our government, did more than their duty, and so 
 compromised us that we are now burdened with a "white ele- 
 phant" ? 
 
 Is it because of honor that we keep the islands ? 
 
 Is it more honorable to "lick" them into submission or sub- 
 due them with kindness by giving them what they desire and 
 what is, perhaps, already theirs before God? 
 
 The above questions and suggestions were recently asked 
 me and made by a farmer living in the state of Iowa. Some 
 of them interested me, as they show, ;to a certain extent, the 
 general situation from different points of view. 
 
 These questions do not state or intimate in the smallest de- 
 gree my own opinion, which has been previously stated in 
 these words: "I believe the hand of God directed the Philip- 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 261 
 
 pine movement, and it is a noble thing for a great and glorious 
 nation, like the United States, to take charge of and save eight 
 million people, even though, in their blindness, it is necessary 
 to force them into submission." To these words I will add 
 the other half of my opinion, heretofore unexpressed: "Be- 
 cause of their ignorance, it may be necessary to force the Fili- 
 pinos into submission to our rule, but, if this great country 
 desires to continue in the grace of God, it is our duty to give 
 to the Filipino what is rightfully his; and if we wish the 
 spirits of George Washington, Abraham Lincoln and William 
 HcKinley to smile upon us in commendation from above, we 
 will show finally to these poor, downtrodden people the active 
 sentiments of mercy, in granting them liberty, freedom and 
 peace." 
 
 These are the respective conditions loved most by the presi- 
 dents named above. Presidents who proved, each in his time, 
 their superiority and greatness. Taken collectively their 
 natural sentiments, known by every school boy in America, 
 should weigh heavily in the Philippine decision. Could we 
 err in following their sentiments, which must be echoed in the 
 hearts of American people? 
 
 Emilio Aguinaldo, about 32 years of age, is a man of un- 
 usual intelligence. He was born in the province of Cavite, 
 near Manila, where he received most of his education, and 
 where after a brief period of study in Hong Kong, he began 
 the practice of law. 
 
 He joined the insurgents early in 1897, in which year the 
 famous "pacification" of the Philippines was negotiated, 
 
262 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 Aguinaldo and his followers receiving about four hundred 
 thousand dollars in Spanish money, equal to nearly half that 
 amount in United States currency, for their promise to cease 
 hostilities and assist the Spanish in pacification. The Spanish, 
 on their part, were to grant certain reforms, including the 
 restrictions of a power exercised by religious orders, Catholic, 
 etc., and impartiality of justice and law between Spanish and 
 native contestants. 
 
 The Spanish did not carry out their elaborate promises of 
 reform, but instead used every available opportunity to irri- 
 tate and humiliate the Filipinos. The religious orders were 
 given increased power, vacancies of bishoprics being filled by 
 priests of those orders most offensive to the insurgents. 
 
 The Spanish officer in command in Manila, General Rivera, 
 executed many insurgent leaders and persons who by the 
 treaty he had promised to protect, endeavoring by this method 
 to break the bonds of insurrection. The Spanish presented 
 him with the Grand Cross of San Fernando, in recognition 
 of his services in establishing peace in the Philippines. Since 
 the Spanish had kept with so little faith and endeavor their 
 promises of reform, the Filipinos considered themselves freed 
 from its obligations and renewed hostilities. 
 
 It is said that Aguinaldo went to Hong Kong with several 
 of his leaders and from thence to Singapore. The money ac- 
 quired through his bribery by Spain was deposited in banks 
 in Hong Kong and a law suit soon arose between one of his 
 subordinate chiefs and himself as to its disposition. The sub- 
 ordinate sued for a division of the money among the insur- 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 263 
 
 gents according to rank. Aguinaldo claimed that the money 
 was simply entrusted to his charge, to remain in the bank 
 until he had tested the Spanish as to their making the reforms 
 mentioned in the treaty, and if they failed to do so, it was to 
 be used in prosecuting a new insurrection. The suit was set- 
 tled out of court by paying the subordinate five thousand dol- 
 lars, and severing his connection with Aguinaldo. No steps 
 were taken by the Spanish towards the proposed reform and 
 Aguinaldo is supposed to have used the money in the opera- 
 tions of the following insurrection, thus demonstrating, ac- 
 cording to his statement, his honorable intentions toward his 
 country. He is reported as having refused money from United 
 States Consul Pratt at Singapore to defray personal expenses 
 upon his return to Manila. 
 
 There were a great many stories afloat at the time as to 
 Aguinaldo's real intentions concerning this money, but it is 
 generally believed that he used a greater portion of it in pur- 
 chasing arms, supplies, etc., with which to carry on the insur- 
 rection. 
 
 Aguinaldo was sent by Consul General Wildman, in the 
 McCulloch, from Honk Kong to Manila, and landed by Ad- 
 miral Dewey with a few cannon and considerable ammunition 
 in Cavite, across the bay from Manila. He took possession 
 immediately of an abandoned house in Cavite, and began to 
 prosecute, with his daily increasing army, the action against 
 the Spaniards. 
 
 It seems that when Major General Merritt, in command of 
 the American army of occupation, arrived and captured the 
 
264 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 city of Manila, in co-operation with the naval forces, fric- 
 tion commenced with General Aguinaldo. He was not given 
 the recognition he expected and resented the occupation of 
 •the city of Manila by American forces. 
 
 President McKinley instructed that no joint occupation of 
 Manila was to be made with the insurgents, and that the in- 
 surgents and all others must recognize the military occupa- 
 tion and authority of the United States and the cessation of 
 hostilities proclaimed by the president. 
 
 Aguinaldo, from Cavite, immediately formed a dictatorial 
 government, of which he was the head, appointing such officers 
 as were necessary in each village or pueblo, to carry on, under 
 ihis direction, the business of police, justice and tax depart- 
 ments. These officers were to elect representatives from each 
 province to form a revolutionary congress. Later, in June, 
 1898, the government was changed to revolutionary, with the 
 title of president for the executive, Aguinaldo. 
 
 I cannot help but believe that, if the United States govern- 
 ment had instructed its servant, the general in command of 
 the army of occupation, to treat more friendly with Aguinaldo 
 and had recognized him as a military leader and ally from 
 the first, there would have been little friction with the insur- 
 gents. It was but natural for Aguinaldo to resent the inde- 
 pendent occupation by foreigners of his country — at least he 
 felt it his country — and if sufficient, diplomacy had been used, 
 it is probable that much of the bloodshed and strife that have 
 marked the last four years would have been saved. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 265 
 
 The life of this Filipino leader and the Philippine situation 
 during the insurrection, up to the time of his capture, would 
 take up too much space here, and, as it is not my intention 
 to make this a chronicle of Philippine history, but rather a 
 story of my travels around the world in the navy, I will leave 
 this work to better qualified and more able writers. 
 
 Early in March, 1901, the flagship Brooklyn had just re- 
 turned from Hong Kong to Manila Bay. Up to this time, the 
 numerous efforts to capture Aguinaldo had proven fruitless. 
 So often had failure crowned such efforts, and as often had 
 I been conversant with such attempts and false reports of 
 success, that the subject had become, in the office of the com- 
 mander-in-chief, one of jest and ridicule. It was believed that 
 the wily insurgent leader had long since escaped from the 
 islands or was dead, and he was almost, for the time being, 
 forgotten. 
 
 However, a letter was dictated to me one morning by the 
 admiral's secretary, directing the United States ship Vicks- 
 burg to report to the military governor for secret ser- 
 vice of a few weeks' duration. The secrecy of the affair 
 aroused my suspicion, and by keeping my "eyes open," a few 
 hours, I finally "tumbled" that the Vicksburg was going 
 south with Major General Funston, to make another attempt 
 upon the liberty of Aguinaldo. I learned also that he had 
 taken a company of Macabeebe scouts with him, and though 
 I could not guess the particular ruse that was to be employed, 
 a previous knowledge of General Funston's ways gave the 
 affair considerable interest to me. 
 
266 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 I said nothing, however, of my suspicion, but watched dur- 
 ing the next few days very closely for news of the Vicksburg. 
 But nothing of particular interest occurred, and I had al- 
 most given up hope when, early on the morning of March 28, 
 1901, the Vicksburg was sighted steaming to the anchorage off 
 Manila. 
 
 Going to the admiral's signal bridge, I took a long glass and 
 made out finally through the dim light of early morning, the 
 figures of the Macabeebe scouts on the decks, and aft on the 
 quarter-deck those of several officers. 
 
 As the day broke and light came, I could make out faces 
 fairly well, and closely scrutinizing those of the officers dis- 
 covered two or three Filipinos among them. But it was not until 
 I had watched for several minutes that, as they filed slowly 
 down the gangway to a steam launch waiting there, that I 
 finally recognized by memory of his picture, the great insur- 
 gent leader, Aguinaldo y Famy. He appeared very much at 
 ease, as near as I could tell in the distance, and from the move- 
 ments of his body, I judge he was not very talkative or given 
 to gestures. He did not turn his head as though in conversa- 
 tion as the passed down the gangway. 
 
 He was a little man, and as he stepped into the launch passed 
 out of sight. This was the only time I ever saw him, except. 
 a few days later in Manila, when I caught a glimpse- of him 
 as he was being driven down the street toward the palace^ in 
 a carriage, under the escort of American officers. 
 
 His face is one that, under no circumstances that I can 
 imagine, would appear common to a close observer. His eyes 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 267 
 
 are keen, but uncommunicative. He has a rather sad. thought- 
 ful countenance, and one would instantly pronounce him a 
 man of deep personality. 
 
 The record of this energetic, shrewd little fellow is won- 
 derful, and I believe, if given the opportunity, he will again 
 distinguish himself in whatever occupation he takes up. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 THE WORK OF THE ARMY IN THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS CIVIL 
 
 SERVICE OPPORTUNITIES FOR INVESTMENT 1 
 
 CHANCE FOR POOR BOYS AND GIRLS. 
 
 u 
 
 P TO THIS TIME the army may be said to have accom- 
 plished considerable in the way of bettering the condition 
 of life in the Philippines. It had become firmly and 
 methodically established in all the important islands. Com- 
 munication by cable, telegraph and telephone, as well as by 
 steamer, had brought the archipelago into a more compact 
 body, lessening to a great extent the danger and privation of 
 small isolated detachments, which the limited number of 
 troops, compared to the territory covered, made it necessary. 
 
 Martial law, with all its restrictions, bettered the condition 
 of friendly Filipinos, and made possible the continuance of 
 commercial pursuits, in a small way, necessary to their welfare. 
 
 The army built roads, caused the cities to be cleaned, con- 
 tagious diseases isolated, built hospitals and cared for the sick 
 natives free of charge, upon application. It established 
 schools, compelling attendance for a certain portion of the 
 year, and in fact took up at first the complete control of civil as 
 well as military affairs. 
 
 Certain officials were appointed to conduct the affairs of 
 provinces, and the terrible "muddle" of Philippine business 
 was straightened out until it became almost manageable. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 269 
 
 Inter-island cables were laid, light houses built and kept in 
 working order. Surveys were undertaken and charts and 
 maps are now available. 
 
 It is almost beyond the power of imagination to understand 
 the labor, disappointment, loss of life, danger and force nec- 
 essary to bring these improvements about. With what fatigue, 
 melancholy and anxiety the brave boys in brown have toiled 
 away in the fierce tropical sun, through rice fields, dense jungles 
 and forests. 
 
 I have been asked, "Is it worth while, all this trouble for 
 the Philippines ?" 
 
 Emphatically, yes. From the time of Magellan the Filipino 
 has had no opportunity, but has been kept down and brutally 
 tyrannized. As I have said before, I believe the hand of God 
 directed the Philippine movement ; and it is a noble thing for 
 a great and glorious nation, such as the United States, to take 
 charge of and save eight) million people. 
 
 Army life in the islands, from the standpoint of the private 
 soldier, is severe. His day runs something after the follow- 
 ing manner: Rising at "reveree," about five o'clock in the 
 morning, they dress and "fall in" immediately for company 
 "roll call." This occupies, perhaps, ten minutes, then the 
 order "fall out" is given and they prepare for breakfast. In 
 about half an hour, during which time they commence to clean 
 quarters, clothing and accouterments. 
 
 At "mess call" the company falls into "single file" or "line," 
 and marches past the "cook shanty," or tent, with their mess 
 gear, consisting of the patent tin folding plates, and a tin 
 
270 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 quart cup, together with knife, fork and spoon, if they haven't 
 lost them. As a man passes by he is given two slices of bread, 
 if bread is available, otherwise he receives "hard tack," a 
 cup of coffee or tea, and his plate filled with whatever may 
 be on the bill of fare. Usually a man is permitted to return 
 for a second "helping," but often there is little to help him 
 to. After receiving his ration, he goes away by himself and 
 makes comfort on a rock, box or the ground, as best suits his 
 fancy. In barracks there are usually "standing" tables pre- 
 pared. 
 
 There is often considerable growling and mumbling about, 
 meal hour by boys who were pampered at home, but the most 
 of them eat what is placed before them in diplomatic silence, 
 accepting philosophically the fare provided. 
 
 They are sometimes quartered in tents, but generally in 
 empty Filipino buildings or sheds. In Cebu, the company of 
 the Twenty-third Infantry, of which a "townie" of mine, Duff 
 Burchett, was a member, was quartered in an old Spanish 
 fort near the sea. This fort, was quite old, built of heavy 
 blocks of stone, the wall surrounding the quarters, cook-house, 
 prison, etc., being about twenty-five feet high. On top of the 
 wall was sufficient room, if need be, to drive a carriage o<r 
 artillery wagons, and sentries continually paced to and fro 
 along its bulwarks. 
 
 When standing on top of this wall, one looked over a small- 
 er breast-high wall, through which at proper places there were 
 apertures for great guns. There were no guns mounted there 
 during my visit, except saluting guns of the Twenty-third 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 271 
 
 Infantry. Inside this fortress wall w T as a square in which 
 the troops occupying the fort were mustered, fed and 
 quartered. Sheds were built around under the lee of the walls 
 and bamboo cots, of the Filipino pattern, served as beds. ~No 
 bed clothing being used except the regular army blankets and 
 mosquito bars. 
 
 Over the entrance or gate of the fort stood a two-story 
 building, probably intended originally by the Spaniards for 
 officers' quarters, and part of it was so used at the time of my 
 visit, but as there was only one officer in charge of the fort, 
 he lived in part of the building with his American wife, the 
 only American woman in Cebu at this time, while the com- 
 pany of which Duff iBurchett was a member, occupied the 
 main room of this entrance building or tower in the second 
 story. 
 
 My meeting with Duff Burchett was rather interesting. 
 ^Neither of us knew the other was in the antipodes. One even- 
 ing in Cebu, when the Bennmcfton was stationed in the straits 
 as a station ship, I was ashore in a restaurant when two sol- 
 diers came in. I glanced up at them, and the unusual clean- 
 liness, neatness and soldierly bearing of one of them, caused 
 me to look closer. His face appeared dimly familiar, but, 
 feeling almost certain that there could be no one of my ac- 
 quaintance in Cebu, I was about to lay the thought to a re- 
 semblance, when the young soldier threw back his head in a 
 characteristic way and said, "I'd give a month's pay to sele 
 some one from home." 
 
272 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 This was not an unusual statement in the Philippines ; T 
 had heard it often before, but, though he paid little attention 
 to me, I then knew it was my old acquaintance, Duff, from 
 my home town. 
 
 Approaching him I said, "Hello, Duff, I'll take the fifteen- 
 sixty, please." 
 
 He was too astonished for a moment to speak, but finally 
 grasping my hand, he exclaimed, "Why, John Swift, that's 
 the first time anybody's called me Duff in a coon's age ; where 
 in the world did you come from ?" 
 
 During the next two months Duff and I visited back and 
 forth on the ship and in the fort, and had considerable enjoy- 
 ment in making excursions about the city together. 
 
 He was considered by his commanding officer as being, per- 
 haps, the neatest and one of the best soldiers in Cebu, and 
 for that reason was chosen to serve a considerable portion of 
 his time as orderly for the general in command of the mili- 
 tary forces. At "guard mount" in the mornings it is custom- 
 ary to select the neatest and cleanest soldier for the general's 
 orderly for the day. Duff was usually selected. 
 
 After breakfast the soldiers take up their work of "cleaning 
 up," and at nine o'clock the guard of the day is marched to 
 the parade ground and amid elaborate ceremonies the old guard 
 of the previous twenty-four hours marches out and the new 
 guard takes their place. The officer-of-'the-guard is called the 
 officer-of-the-day, and is equivalent, to the officer-of-the-deck jf 
 a man-of-war. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 273 
 
 About 10:30 a. m. the troops remaining in quarters are 
 taken to parade ground and drilled until 11 :30, when they 
 return to quarters. In the tropics, however, it is customary 
 to drill the troops earlier in the day and late in the evening, 
 allowing the hottest part of the day for rest; at least they are 
 supposed to do so, but many commanding officers, like others, 
 are liable to possess demoniacal temperaments, and drill the 
 men in the hottest part of the day, instead of the coolest. 
 Again, many officers use judgment and give their men all 
 opportunity to withstand the ravages of the tropics. 
 
 The soldiers detailed to stand guard, walk post two hours 
 and are relieved for four, when they stand another two hours' 
 march. They are on duty for twenty-four hours, then, on 
 coming off guard, the succeeding twenty-four hours are spent 
 in performing "old guard fatigue," virtually cleaning or po- 
 licing camp, or other laborious duty. This adds much to the 
 severe duty of the soldier. Walking post, with a heavy gun, 
 "in a soldierly-like manner, keeping constantly on the alert, 
 etc.," as the law requires, is extremely fatiguing, and after 
 twenty-four hours of such alternating work, a soldier is in a fit 
 condition to rest. But under many commanding officers, during 
 my experience, he was required to clean camp, and perform 
 heavy manual labor the next day after standing guard. How- 
 ever, I am inclined to believe this rule did not prevail in the 
 Philippines, else our soldier boys could not well bear their 
 burdens. 
 
 Let me disillusionize those who believe the soldier's duties 
 are light. On the contrary, they are extremely heavy. 
 
274 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 A soldier on guard in the Philippines would, perhaps, be 
 stationed in the suburbs by some old house or cross road, with 
 orders to challenge all comers. Let the night be dark, rainy, 
 with mud under foot, and rumors afloat of an uprising of the 
 natives, and the poor, shivering, dripping, homesick, miser- 
 able soldier, pacing back and forth across the road, trying to 
 penetrate the darkness with tired, sleepy eyes, and straining 
 his ears continually for the always expected cat step of a Fili- 
 pino creeping up to split his head open with a bolo, and you 
 have some conception of a soldier's duties. 
 
 Discipline in the army is severe. A soldier must not sleep 
 on post. He must not drink while on duty. He must treat 
 his superior officer with greater respect than he feels, or the 
 officer usually deserves. He must be clean, neat in uniform, 
 his coat buttoned, shoes polished, and never fail to address his 
 officer with "attention," the if hand salute" and "Sir." He 
 must not leave quarters without' permission. Like the sailor, 
 he must not whistle. The four duties of a soldier are: To 
 obey, keep clean, fear God and shoot straight. 
 
 The "guard house" for the soldier, like the "brig" for the 
 sailor, holds the banner of supreme hatred. It is continually 
 held over the soldier and he gets in it on slightest provocation. 
 For example, a man for "disrespect to his superior officer" 
 may be court-martialed and his sentence read, "thirty days in 
 the guard house, in double irons, on bread and water, with 
 full ration every third day, and loss of thirty days' pay." 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 275 
 
 He has little chance of redress, if wronged, and, in my opin- 
 ion, he is often made to bear the brunt of a contemptible su- 
 perior's spite and maligning efforts. 
 
 Since the beginning of our country the soldier has been her 
 safeguard in supreme moments of emergency. Though the 
 last resort, he is a safe one, and has saved America from de- 
 pendence and ignominy on more than one occasion. 
 
 Yet there are people, calling themselves good, honest, pa- 
 triotic Americans, who hold themselves aloof from him, and 
 pointing the finger of scorn, ridicule him as a fool who leaves 
 a good home, perhaps to be made the tool of tyrannical su- 
 periors, and suffer death or privation in foreign lands. Let 
 those who feel that this shaft belongs in their breast recon- 
 sider, and think of what would become of their homes, their 
 little ones and themselves if all men felt so little patriotism. 
 
 As soon as the conditions in the Philippine Islands would 
 permit, Judge William H. Taft was appointed civil governor 
 and the military government retired to make way for a new 
 staff of civil servants. Instead of martial law, which puts a 
 certain restriction on all movements, civil law became a fact 
 and permitted affairs in Manila, the Philippine metropolis, to 
 resume their original commercial activity. 
 
 A civil service board was formed and discharged soldiers, 
 sailors, civilians and Filipinos took examinations for govern- 
 mental positions. Quite a number of Filipinos were found 
 qualified and given clerkships and various other positions 
 within their competency, and many of the volunteer soldiers 
 who had been filling official positions at the munificent 
 
276 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 salary of fifteen dollars and sixty cents per month, suddenly 
 found themselves earning one thousand two hundred, and 
 even as high as two thousand dollars a year. 
 
 It was a splendid way to reciprocate for their long, severe 
 service for Uncle Sam, and many deserving young men were 
 given the first chance of their lives to better their personal 
 condition. However, it is the policy of the United States 
 government, as far as I can see, to encourage the Filipino, and 
 whenever one qualifies himself for a civil position he is given 
 first chance. This may fill many of the lower offices, but if 
 any man apply himself, it is my opinion that he will move up- 
 ward to a higher place when the Filipino is ready to take his 
 seat. 
 
 It is right that the Filipino be given this encouragement — 
 it is the quickest way to pacify him — educate him and give 
 him a good "job." 
 
 The postoffice, under civil government, in Manila employs 
 a great many people, and does a tremendous business. Be- 
 sides the regular native mail, this department handles all 
 mail for the army and navy, whose branches, scattered about 
 the entire archipelago, make the postoffice one of the most 
 important offices in the islands. 
 
 In the postoffice at Manila I met another of our neighbor 
 boys, Mr. Beard, of Moulton, Iowa, who entered civil service 
 from the army, and is rapidly striding forward toward fame 
 in his department. He has an excellent position, in charge, 
 when I left Manila, of the city box department, and is one of 
 the smartest lads I have met. Though we were not acquainted 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 277 
 
 prior to our meeting in Manila, it seemed good to meet some 
 one from near home, and we became good friends. 
 
 Hurrah for old Iowa ! Everywhere I met a boy or man 
 from this state he was about two steps ahead of the others. 
 
 While I am on this subject let me remark that the above state- 
 ment is none too broad, for this reason — Iowa spends large sums 
 of money for educational purposes, therefore her boys have com- 
 paratively good educations, and are better qualified in general 
 to hold positions. 
 
 Let Iowa keep on spending her money for schools, and as 
 long as she does, she will have good reports from the boys 
 who may go to other parts of the world. 
 
 The postoffice has established sub-offices at many of the more 
 important little towns. The government has for convenience 
 divided its territory into provinces or districts, with judges, 
 treasurers, tax collectors, etc., which positions are nearly all 
 open to bright Americans. 
 
 In brief, the business affairs of the Philippines are con- 
 ducted by the civil government and its laws are enforced by the 
 military authorities, whenever their intervention is necessary. 
 
 Under the civil government come the heads of justice, reve- 
 nue, improvement, maintenance of public works and general 
 finance of the archipelago. 
 
 Justice is obtained through much the same process, with 
 judges, jury, lawyers, etc., as the people of the United States 
 endeavor to obtain it, with, I presume, much the same general 
 result. For example: Don Miguel has a piece of land; Jim 
 White wants it ; Jim looks through the rather unreliable Span- 
 
278 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 ish archives in Manila and finds there is some little "hitch" 
 in the title of the property. So Jim employs a "jack-leg" 
 lawyer to "snake" the land, and if poor old ignorant Don 
 don't "look out," it will certainly, as a little boy I knew said, 
 "git snuck." 
 
 Revenues I am not personally posted about, but have heard 
 a number of times that the government of the islands get them, 
 if somebody else don't get them first. Of course, they run the 
 risk of coming in second to collectors and agents of the in- 
 surgents, as well as the church. I know personally, in my 
 official capacity, of a certain English company in Borneo, who 
 sent tax collectors over to a certain province on one of the 
 islands and collected considerable tax money. This seemed so 
 ridiculous to me at the time that I did not believe the papers 
 before my eyes, but they were written by an army officer; so, 
 of course, there can be no error. At least it is not generally 
 believed that a graduate of West Point would lie. 
 
 Improvement is carried on by appointing boards to inves- 
 tigate reports of improvements advisable from various sources, 
 and if the board reports favorably, they are empowered to 
 carry out their recommendations or another board appointed 
 for that purpose. For example : A large sum of money has 
 been appropriated to improve the harbor of Manila; another 
 to build light houses; another to survey the archipelago, and 
 countless others of minor importance. 
 
 While the army is engaged in the pacification of the islands, 
 the civil government is pushing them to a higher plane of ex- 
 
AROUND THK WORLD IM THE NAVY 279 
 
 cellence in many ways, and their labors are of equal impor- 
 tance with those of the army. 
 
 Maintenance of public works and finance are carried on 
 much the same as the improvement of the islands, and judg- 
 ing from what is plainly evident, Governor Taf t and his aides 
 do not labor in vain. There is tremendous improvement to 
 be seen since he assumed control throughout the entire arch- 
 ipelago. 
 
 By releasing the army from this work of government, a 
 great many officers and men were made available for line 
 duty, and therefore, a smaller force is required than would 
 be necessary under the old management. 
 
 In Manila you will see the neatest uniformed and as hand- 
 some a force of American and Filipino police imaginable. 
 They wear "kaki" blouses, trousers, and caps, with tan col- 
 ored leather leggins, and carry a heavy revolver and short 
 club. They are very neat and "up-to-date," and are quick 
 to make arrests. They have the reputation of arresting at 
 once any offender of the law. 
 
 Nearly all of the white police were "picked" men from 
 the army, who preferred to accept a position to returning 
 home upon the expiration of their enlistment. Their pay is 
 about fifty dollars per month. 
 
 The civil service pays good salaries, and the appointments 
 are intended to be fair to all. A bookkeeper will receive from 
 the first about eight hundred to sixteen hundred dollars a 
 year. Stenographers and clerks receive about the same pay. 
 In brief, the pay of public employes is some better than in 
 
280 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 the United States, but as living is more expensive there, the 
 pay remains in the end about the same. 
 
 If one desires to enter civil service in the Philip- 
 pines, he must apply to Washington and take the 
 examination here in the United States or go to Manila and 
 take it there. The examinations, at the time I left Manila, 
 were not very stringent, on account of the difficulty in securing 
 competent people to fill the great number of vacancies. How- 
 ever, people are flocking into Manila in considerable numbers 
 and civil service conditions will, no doubt, early assume the 
 same proportions they have in the United States. For 
 this reason prospective applicants had best take examinations 
 here and receive appointments before leaving their homes. 
 
 The lives of civil service employes in the city of Manila 
 are tolerably pleasant. They have good hours, the work is 
 clean and always interesting. It is the intention of the gov- 
 ernment to erect houses, cold storages, and many other public 
 affairs, to add comfort and convenience to the lives of their 
 employes. 
 
 One great trouble in the lives of such people, when I vis- 
 ited at Manila, was the difficulty of obtaining fresh beef and 
 provisions. There are not sufficient markets and trucksters to 
 accommodate the people with good, clean, fresh food at living 
 prices. It is hard to get a meal in Manila for less than one 
 Mexican dollar, equal to about half a dollar in United States 
 currency; and such a meal could be furnished here for from 
 ten to fifteen cents. If men of capital were to build cold stor- 
 age there and ship from Australia or San Francisco meat and 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 281 
 
 provisions and furnish theni at a reasonable profit, life in 
 Manila would be improved considerably. 
 
 The opportunities in the Philippines at present for invest- 
 ment of capital are excellent. The islands are rich in timber, 
 hard and soft woods, minerals, coal, copper, zinc, gold and 
 silver, and the soil in natural ability for production. 
 
 For a capital of one million dollars stock, opportunities are 
 open in the following lines, which are necessary to the comfort 
 of the people and improvement of the islands : Copper mines, 
 stone and marble quarries, saw mills, furniture factories, cold 
 storages for meats and provisions, contracts for improvement 
 of roads, bridges, harbors, cities and building of houses and 
 bridges. Telegraph lines, cables, telephones, railroads, street 
 railways, inter-island steamer lines, all offer opportunities for 
 safe investment, and considerable return. 
 
 To those with smaller amounts of capital, ranging down 
 to twenty thousand dollars, there are a multitude of oppor- 
 tunities. Manila needs a fifty thousand dollar hotel. It needs 
 a commercial college; a first-class theatre, first-class business 
 buildings ; a skyscraper would be filled with tenants before 
 it was half built, or even started, if it were advisable to erect 
 so great a structure in an earthquake-disturbed locality, which 
 is questionable. Not to enumerate further, I will say that the 
 Philippines, if continued under the control of the United 
 States, offer the best opportunities for men of capital of any 
 part of the world I have visited. 
 
 Then think of the chances for men below the twenty thou- 
 sand mark, on down to two thousand ; shoes, clothing, gro- 
 
282 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 ceries, meat, medicine, household goods, furniture, "especially 
 American beds," and, in fact, everything that is required by 
 people here in the summer, offer inducements to those who will 
 export them to or manufacture them in the Philippines. 
 
 There are thousands of opportunities there for men with 
 a little money and a man with no money might make it all right, 
 but if they desire to ever see their native land and loved ones 
 again, I advise men with no pull, money or education, to 
 keep away from the Philippines. There are thousands there 
 now who are willing to spend months at the most humiliating 
 and fatiguing .toil to pay their way back home. Some are des- 
 perate and will take almost any risk to reach home again. 
 
 In connection with this subject, I wish to say to any man 
 or woman of wealth who may, perchance, read this, and who 
 have made more money than they need and are inclined !to 
 help their fellow-men, get together others of your kind and 
 send some poor, honest, sensible young man out to the Phil- 
 ippines to act as your agent. Use your influence with ithe 
 government and have an arrangement made by which destitute 
 men may return from Manila to America. If you do not 
 wish to pay their fares outright, and of course it would not 
 be advisable, let them sign contracts to return the amount out 
 of their first year's wages upon return to America, and let 
 your order or society secure them positions here. This would 
 give you, perhaps, a new interest in life, and God would bless 
 you for such efforts. 
 
 Of course, as society advances in the islands, poor men 
 will have better chances, and there may be no necessity later 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 283 
 
 to help them get home, but this will, I feel sure, be some 
 distance in the future, and in the meantime, many poor, 
 honest men who go out on the other side of the world expecting 
 to make fortunes, and instead become destitute, will not have 
 to die for want of a few dollars with which to pay their fare 
 home again. Such a measure as I have mapped out would, 
 of course, be truly a charitable one, but such charity, though 
 scarce, is God-like. 
 
 There is an excellent field for money-making and pleasant 
 occupation in the pursuit of planting in the islands. Hemp, 
 tobacco, rice and fruit are about the best branches of the 
 business of cultivation from a money standpoint. With an 
 investment of from five to ten thousand dollars, a planter can 
 make himself independent with a larger income, less risk and 
 more pleasant occupation, than in nearly any business he 
 might engage in at the present time. While I do not advocate 
 the risk of an American's life by over six continuous years of 
 residence in the Philippines, if he owns a paying plantation, 
 he may spend three or four months of each year in near-by 
 Japan, which will prepare him for the balance of the year's 
 constant physical strain in the islands. 
 
 My experience and observation show that there is a con- 
 stant drain on the system of a white man in the tropics, 
 which necessitates a change of climate of at least once in 
 three years and preferably more often. ' 
 
 Japan, being within easy communication, with several lines 
 of steamers plying between Hong Kong and Japanese ports, 
 with others between Manila and Hong Kong, makes a suitable 
 
284 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 and pleasant summer resort, easy of access. In previous chap- 
 ters I have endeavored to portray in her true colors picturesque 
 and delightful little Japan. 
 
 It seems to me that I should desire no better opportunity to 
 advance myself in this world's affairs, while at the same time 
 have the opportunity of doing good for others, than to own 
 a plantation on the islands of either Luzon, Panay or ISTegros. 
 
 It may be a year of two before a man would be safe in tak- 
 ing his family to the Philippines, but he would not be war- 
 ranted in taking a woman and children there at first in any 
 event. He should go first alone, and gain some knowledge of 
 conditions and prospects, as the state of affairs in the islands 
 opposes in general those of the United States. 
 
 I believe a magnificent home could soon be made there. 
 With nature to assist in all her abundance of verdure, a very 
 small minimum of labor would repay tenfold the planter and 
 home-maker who aimed at prosperity and luxury. Trees are 
 ever green, flowers blossom the year around; every little bush 
 has a wealth of foliage. Imagine the beauty that could be brought 
 to adorn a home with every conceivable tropical growth trained 
 and cultivated to meet one's desire. 
 
 Sugar is an important product, and cane thrives in nearly 
 all parts of the archipelago. 
 
 Under such conditions as I have imagined a planter, he would 
 necessarily he required only to oversee his possessions. White 
 men do not perform manual labor in countries that are in- 
 habited by colored races. While the Filipino is not a fool, he 
 naturally values himself unusually beneath a white man, or, 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 285 
 
 if he does not so place his value, he at least is generally willing 
 to serve the white man for a little "filthy lucre." 
 
 The money used in the Philippines is not preferable to 
 United States currency in commercial affairs. First, it fluc- 
 tuates in value ; second, it is bulky ; third, it is not the money 
 of the country. However, the United States money is used 
 considerably, and will finally, I believe, generally replace the 
 Mexican and Spanish currency. 
 
 The native costumes and foreign language detract from 
 the convenience of business associations between the American 
 and themselves, but they are tractable, when friendly, and 
 learn readily the language of their white superiors. 
 
 Though not very strong, generally they make very good ser- 
 vants, and though treacherous they will readily adapt them- 
 selves to our ways. 
 
 At any rate, they are human, and, no doubt, would ap- 
 preciate, to a certain extent, humane treatment ; I have found 
 humane treatment one of the best aids in dealing with ig- 
 horant, partly or wholly uncivilized people everywhere in 
 my travels. They can feel, like us, and, poor fellows, though 
 they get little kindness from white men, I have seen them be- 
 come extremely friendly upon the receipt of a kind word. 
 
 The Filipinos are intelligent and make up in that charac- 
 teristic what they lack in physical strength. 
 
 Perhaps money is to be made quicker in some of the more 
 distant inlands or lower southern parts of the archipelago. 
 Isla de Mindiano is said to be rich in placer gold, and Zam- 
 boanga, Cebu, Illilo and many other southern cities greatly 
 
286 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 need and would abundantly remunerate the capitalist for in- 
 vestment of a little money in ice machines, cold storage, etc. 
 Now is unquestionably the time for prospective investors 
 to go to the islands. In fact, capital and brains are joining 
 forces there every day, and soon the best opportunities will 
 have been taken. 
 
 CHANCE FOB POOB BOYS AND GIBX,S. 
 
 The Philippines offer inducement in some ways to young 
 men and women of brains, even if they have little money. The 
 civil service pays well, and they are extremely anxious to have 
 bright young people come to the islands. 
 
 A bright, energetic, forceful boy or girl, who can pass the 
 examinations given by the civil service at Washington, in the 
 Philippine branch, stands a good show to go to 'Manila for two 
 years at a salary of one thousand to two thousand dollars a 
 year with passage paid both ways. Of course, if they wish 
 to return to the United States, before the expiration of their 
 contract, their return passage money is forfeited, therefore, I ad- 
 vise boys and girls to have on deposit three hundred dollars or 
 more in Manila, as the effect of the tropical climate on their 
 constitution is uncertain. 
 
 "Rooms are a little scarce in Manila, but they can be found, 
 and are generally large, airy and can be made, at little ex- 
 pense, very pleasant. 
 
 Unlike America, it is hard to find furnished rooms to rent 
 in the Philippines. But there are plenty of stone houses in 
 healthy locations. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 287 
 
 The houses are generally built so that the living rooms are 
 all in the second story, only using the lower part for storage 
 purposes. This custom is due to the extreme heat of the tropics, 
 as air circulates more freely among the second stories. 
 
 If some bright Yankee could devise means to insure "sky- 
 scrapers," against the action of earthquakes, their adoption 
 in Manila would be immediate, as building space on the prin- 
 cipal streets is entirely inadequate. I noticed a few large build- 
 ings and hotels in Manila that were four or five stories high. 
 They were built of stone and appeared to be perfectly secure. 
 
 Living would cost about forty dollars a month in American 
 money. As a rule the young men of my acquaintance in Manila 
 live a half a dozen or so together, occupying an entire house, 
 which saves them considerable annoyance from house neighbors 
 of foreign speech. 
 
 During my stay in Manila society was not plenty on account 
 of the scarcity of American women. But, during the latter 
 part of 1900, a number of families and school teachers came 
 out, adding much to the pleasure of life in Manila. Taken 
 out of the sound of lovely woman's voice, out of sight of her 
 face and figure, man is a poor stick, indeed. He is a bur- 
 den to himself as well as to other people. 
 
 The last year has done much to make Manila habitable and 
 affairs there are daily improving. 
 
 In conclusion of this subject, I will advise all people, espe- 
 cially inexperienced boys and girls, that if you accept posi- 
 tions in the Philippines, assure yourselves, before leaving 
 home, that your return passage is certain at any time it may 
 
288 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 be necessary to come. The climate may suit you and it may 
 not. You should either have three hundred dollars in gold 
 deposited in a Manila bank, and keep it there as before men- 
 tioned, or a contract with the government or a responsible 
 firm to send you back to the United States within thirty days' 
 notice. Do not go, unless you have this assurance. 
 
 With brains and a good government position, young men 
 and women may do well, but by all means, do not place your- 
 self in a position that will leave you penniless in Manila. 
 Money in a bank here in the United States is not much good. 
 Better have it where you can get it at any time. I would not 
 wish to "tackle" the Philippines with less than one thousand 
 dollars a year assured besides the bank deposit. 
 
 CAVITE. 
 
 Cavite is a place often mentioned in matters pertaining to 
 the Philippines, and I doubt if the general public quite under- 
 stand its exact location and importance. Manila Bay is very 
 large — so large that one cannot see across the water, except 
 the mountain tops on the opposite side. The city of Manila 
 lies at the extreme eastern end and Cavite lies around the 
 shore of the bay to the southwest on a narrow point of land 
 projecting out into the bay. 
 
 During the occupation of Spain, Cavite was used as a naval 
 base and magazines were located there. They built quite an 
 extensive fort and kept a good many prisoners in the ill smell- 
 ing, foul dungeons underneath its walls. Cavite is a town of, 
 perhaps, five hundred natives. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 289 
 
 At present the United States Navy has its repair shops and 
 storehouses there. The little captured Spanish gunboats are 
 all repaired there, but all ships of the Bennington class and 
 upward are too large to be drawn upon the ways, and have 
 to be sent to China or Japan for docking. 
 
 A short time before my return to the United States, I vis- 
 ited Cavite. It was on a very hot afternoon that Arthur Bab- 
 cock, the captain's writer of the Brooklyn; Howard Gage, an 
 apothecary, his friend Clark, another of his profession, and 
 I left the flagship for an afternoon's stroll on the beach and a 
 visit to the cemetery in the suburbs of the town. 
 
 The streets of the town were dusty. Tired, thirsty dogs lay 
 panting in the shade of the old Spanish fort wall, with their 
 swollen tongues hanging out of their mouths. Naked Fili- 
 pino children sprawled upon the beach under those grand old 
 shade trees that fill the little park along the shore, and water 
 buffalo wallowed in the hot sand and water of the bay, with, 
 perhaps, the erroneous idea that it was cooler than the air. 
 
 Everything seemed parched. One drank water and lost 
 it almost immediately through the pores of the skin, by per- 
 spiration. 
 
 It ivas not a particularly lively day to strike out with the 
 intention of enjoying a stroll, but with the assistance of our 
 friend Clark, who because of his jokes was an important per- 
 sonage that day, we managed to make up quite a cheerful party. 
 
 Gage and Clark had just come out from the United States 
 to begin each a four year cruise, and we were showing them 
 
290 AROUND THK WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 the sights and relating stories of battles, skirmishes, etc., as we 
 pointed out the localities in which they had occurred. 
 
 Out through the west gate of the city we passed over the 
 narrow isthmus, connecting Cavite with the mainland, over 
 which Aguinaldo was chased back and forth by the Americans 
 at the outset of the insurrection. From this spot I pointed out 
 to the left another narrow neck of land over which I witnessed 
 a skirmish one afternoon. First the United States marines 
 would fire a few shells from a four-inch field piece into the 
 trenches of the insurgents at the other end, then Aggie's in- 
 surgents would charge bravely across, until stopped by a fusi- 
 lade of lead or steel from the marines. Then their retreat 
 would resemble a school boys' scramble after a ball or away 
 from a skunk's nest. Then both parties would lie on their 
 arms and grit their teeth until courage worked up to about 
 "one hundred and eighty," when the performance would be 
 repeated. ' 
 
 However, everything was quiet this day, and heat was the 
 only enemy we had to contend with. As we advanced it grew 
 terrific. Off came our coats, collars, shirts open at the neck 
 and periods of rest in the shade grew more frequent. 
 
 Presently we came to a very long, narrow lane, out in the 
 country, where the trees lined either side and the branches, 
 meeting overhead, formed an archway nearly a quarter of a 
 mile in length. The air was perfectly delightful. What a 
 change from the burning sun to the cool shady avenue of 
 branches ! 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 291 
 
 Clark remarked that it was like going from Chicago to 
 Philadelphia. 
 
 As we strolled down this cool sweet smelling lane of green 
 boughs and flowers, they told us of the United States. What 
 new songs were being sung and whistled on the streets, of new 
 books, plays, prevailing styles of clothing — the young men 
 were wearing shirt waists — shirt), waists! think of it; shirt 
 waists, like the girls ; oh, the sissies. 
 
 Clark whistled a little piece that I found perfectly charm- 
 ing. He told me it was over a year old and had been sung 
 to death — it was entitled "Little Georgia Rose." 
 
 At the end of the avenue, we came suddenly upon an old 
 Catholic church in ruins, with a cemetery at its rear. This was 
 enclosed by a wall of, perhaps, eight feet in height, with broken 
 pieces of glass stuck into cement on its top to keep out ma- 
 rauders. 
 
 An old Filipino sexton and his aged wife were in attendance 
 and very politely opened the gate for us to enter. Leading the 
 way he passed around the church among the graves. 
 
 There were many ordinary mounds with odd, ancient looking 
 stones, inscribed in Spanish; but most interesting to me was 
 the famous Filipino sepulchres. On the inside the wall was 
 built out to a thickness of, perhaps, ten feet, sloping on top 
 from the wall down to about six feet high in front. All along 
 the face of this projecture of the wall was built or cut in, every 
 few feet, in double tier, square holes large enough to admit a 
 coffin which could be pushed back endways out of sight when a 
 
292 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 marble plate could be placed over the aperture, on which the 
 necessary inscriptions are placed. 
 
 Many of these pigeon-holes, as Clark called them, were cov- 
 ered with such marble plates., We read the inscriptions on some 
 of them ; simply the name, dates of birth and death, and some 
 little verse or epitaph. 
 
 A few of the openings had no coverings and we could look 
 in upon the coffins. They were odd shaped affairs and looked 
 as though they had been used for many years. I have no doubt 
 but that they had been used for more than one corpse, as it is 
 the Spanish custom, when relatives of the deceased fall in ar- 
 rears with the rent for a sepulchre, the bones of the dead are 
 taken out and thrown in a pile of other such delinquents in a 
 corner of the yard reserved for that purpose. 
 
 I visited such a corner in this yard and found amid great 
 tall, strange rank weeds a pile of human skulls, femurs, ribs, 
 etc., on one of which there was some decayed flesh that caused 
 us soon to retreat. 
 
 At one grave in place of a headstone there was a bushel 
 basket filled with white polished skulls. I picked one out and 
 was going to try to buy it, when it accidentally slipped from 
 my hand to the ground. One of the boys said "Oh! don't 
 take him; he don't want to go." 
 
 I did not believe the skull had any motive or power to act 
 on its own account but, as it was not a complete specimen, I 
 replaced it in the basket, much to the relief of my friend. 
 
 However, some time previous to this, in Lingayen Gulf, 
 Luzon, when General Wheaton, with 2,300 men jumped into 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 293 
 
 the water and waded ashore under fire from the insurgents, 
 while the Bennington and five other ships bombarded the coast, 
 I offered a friendly old Filipino, who came off with fruit to 
 sell, two dollars to get me the head of one of the killed Fili- 
 pinos, and after cleaning it, bring it off to me. 
 
 The next time we visited there he brought off a skull and I 
 paid him as I agreed, but it looked old and weather worn, and 
 I feel sure it was one he had purloined from some cemetery. 
 
CHAPTEE X. 
 
 CRUISE OF INSPECTION CHINA, JAPAN, KOREA AND SIBERIA 
 
 RUSSIAN MILITARISM YOKOHAMA, JAPAN. 
 
 w 
 
 ITH THE Kentucky's thirteen thousand dollars we pro- 
 ceeded to China and Japan for an extended cruise of 
 inspection, with regard to the fortifications, defenses, 
 adaptability for shelter, and indication of uprising of the 
 Chinese. 
 
 On the evening of September 26, 1901, the Brooklyn 
 weighed anchor and got under way for Nagasaki, Japan. The 
 weather was clear and pleasant, sea calm but all hands were 
 inclined to growl at another of the Brooklyn's frequent 
 Changes, which added work and delays in receiving mails from 
 home. 
 
 WHY TAD SHIPPED OVER. 
 
 The heat had been terrific during the previous week, and all 
 hands were in the sulks. It is true the band was) playing on 
 the quarter deck, but we had heard every piece on the program 
 at least fifty times, so its only effect was to make one wish 
 that particular part of the ship where the dago musicians sat 
 would sink and stow them away in Davy's locker. 
 
 Partly because I liked him, and partly because he owned 
 an electric fan, I dropped into the captain's writer's office, 
 about seven bells of the second dog watch, for a chat with him. 
 Tad was a clever fellow and thoroughly entertaining. I found 
 him lounging in the big office chair with his feet planted as high 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 295 
 
 as he could well get them against the bulkhead; his coat off, 
 shirt thrown open at the neck, sleeves rolled to tKs elbows, 
 with the fan running four bells and a jingle square in his 
 face. The breeze kept his long black hair standing on end, 
 and he gave me the impression of a jinrickashaw man from 
 Nagasaki. [But he was comfortable, and he didn't care who 
 knew it. 
 
 Taking a seat on the typewriter stool, I suggested that he 
 either spin a yarn or swipe some ice-water from the captain's 
 steward, in order that we might make it possible to cheer up. 
 Running his fingers through his long hair, he smiled lazily and 
 contentedly as the cool air penetrated to the scalp, and offered 
 to match me to see who was to steal the ice and water. I 
 won. While he was working the steward, I sent the orderly 
 across to the flag office with an invitation for Schnitz to come 
 over and partake of the cooling refreshment, with permission 
 to bring his own cigarettes. Schnitz came, double time, and 
 planting himself in his usual seat, a reclining cane chair in 
 the corner, placed his feet on top of the desk and lit a ciga- 
 rette. 
 
 Presently Tad came in with a pitcher of water and a big 
 chunk of ice. I suggested that some one spin a yarn while the 
 water was cooling. 
 
 No one replied, so Schnitz suggested that Tad tell us why 
 he had re-enlisted in the navy. 
 
 It seemed to hit him right, for he took out five cigarettes 
 and laid them on the desk in a row, ready to replace the one 
 he was smoking when required. 
 
296 AROUND THE WORLD IN THH NAVY 
 
 We all made ourselves comfortable, because five cigarettes 
 meant a twenty minutes' yarn. 
 
 "Well, mates," he drawled, lazily, "perhaps you remember 
 that during my last cruise, I kept up a hot fire of correspond- 
 ence with a trim little craft in Ohio. Romance, I think, was 
 my principal incentive. Though I had been told most all 
 about her life from the cradle up, and had been corresponding 
 with her for about five years, through a series of unaccountable 
 interventions, I had somehow never managed to meet her. 
 Something was wrong each time an effort had been made for 
 us to meet, so I finally drifted into the navy without having 
 set eyes on her, and came half way around the world to help 
 Dewey scoff the Spaniards, and later to spank the wayward 
 Filipino. 
 
 "Well, she sent me a photo, and in return I sent her a. pic- 
 ture of my friend Jones. You remember he resembled me 
 somewhat. 
 
 "She wrote me how handsome it was, and how she kissed 
 the picture every night before hammocks, and all that sort of 
 business; an' I laughed, and laughed, like a fool. Never oc- 
 curred to me once that I hadn't done a smart thing. I pic- 
 tured, in my own mind, how surprised she'd be when I stepped 
 off the train at her home ; for I had an idea, mates, that I was 
 just a little more likely look'n than old chaw Jones. It was 
 one of my chief pleasures to remind my old chum, daily, that 
 he was too slow to catch the measles. 
 
 "But, mates, I really loved that girl, though I had not seen 
 her; and saved every cent I got with the intention of keeping 
 my promise of starting up some modest business in civil life 
 and marrying her when I was paid off. 
 
 "Laddies, you know I always was a fool — couldn't keep a 
 good thing to myself — so told Jones all about the affair, and 
 that I had sent his picture as a con. 
 
 "He laughed at me, and explained carefully, for the thou- 
 sandth and one time, that I certainly was a blamed fool. 
 
 "As you probably remember, I became anxious as my time 
 grew shorter ; was terribly in love with her. Used to write every 
 week and she did likewise. Her letters wouldn't show up for 
 about three months, then we'd get a mail, and they'd have to use 
 the steam crane to get mine aboard. 
 
AROUND THB WORLD IN THE NAVY 297 
 
 "We had plans all made, how she was to meet me at the train, 
 and if we liked each other on sight, we were to get married 
 within a week. In fact, we had prearranged every detail. 
 
 "I kept her letters in my desk, but never locked it; for, to 
 my mind it was not possible that any man would be mean 
 enough to read them. 
 
 "Finally my time had shortened down to six months. Jones, 
 having enlisted three months prior to me, was to go home in 
 the Solace the trip before I could go. We had been chums 
 all our lives and neither had any secrets from the other. 
 
 "Well, I went with him on board the Solace and helped to 
 carry his curios. He was very kind, and agreed to take a box 
 of fine Chinaware I had purchased in Japan to Miss Waldron 
 for me. He bade me goodbye with tears in his eyes — one mo- 
 ment, lads, till I light fires on a new one — but promised to 
 meet me immediately upon my arrival in America ; and the 
 Solace steamed out of the bay the next morning with her home- 
 ward-bound pennant trailing back a hundred yards in the 
 breeze. 
 
 "It was pretty lonely for me during the next few months, 
 and my only consolation was the letters. I did not write 
 about my friend Jones coming with the Chinaware, as I want- 
 ed her to be surprised with the present of a fine tea set from 
 the other side of the world. 
 
 "Slowly the time dragged along, till finally one grand, beau- 
 tiful morning orders came for me to return by the Solace, which 
 vessel had again reached Manila to take another load of short- 
 timers to 'Frisco. 
 
 "Lord, mates ! You know how happy I was ! I remember 
 shaking hands and saying goodbye to Schnitz six times, and I 
 guess I would have kept it up until now if the officer-of-the- 
 deck hadn't ordered me in no gentle manner to 'get into the 
 launch,' which was alongside waiting to take me to the Solace. 
 
 "One moment, lads, this bloom'n cigarette has a streak of 
 rag in it ; I'll have to take another, I guess." 
 
 I am not sure, but I thought I saw a tear in Tad's eye, and 
 somehow got the idea that the fault was not wholly that of the 
 cigarette. However, I may have been mistaken. 
 
 "Smooth voyage all the way. Japanese Inland Sea, Yoko- 
 hama, Honolulu, in fact we took in all the sights enroute, and 
 had a most pleasant voyage. I think I was the happiest man 
 in all those waters. 
 
298 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 "On arriving at Mare Island, California, it was a great dis- 
 appointment not to find Chum there, as he promised to meet 
 me; but I was nappy and, after getting a new outfit of shore 
 clothes at 'Frisco, went on board a sixty knot train bound for 
 Ohio. 
 
 "Three days later, she hove slowly into port; let go both 
 anchors, banked fires and all hands went ashore. 
 
 "I had telegraphed from Chicago to my girl on just what 
 train I should arrive, and was again disappointed that there "was 
 no one to meet me. However, I was not one to feel bad over 
 such a little thing; but then a sudden fear came over me that 
 she might be ill. 
 
 "I chartered a four-wheeled cutter, anchored alongside, and 
 gave the coxswain hurry-up orders to steam for Miss Wal- 
 dron's anchorage. 
 
 "Pretty soon we hove in sight of a full rigged house, sur- 
 rounded by several cables' length of park. I had always held 
 the idea that she was not wealthy, so asked the coxswain who 
 lived there. 
 
 "He told me Mr. Waldron. 
 
 "It seemed a queer coincident, — the names, but it occurred 
 to me that my Miss Waldron must be — Oh, Lord! — perhaps 
 she was the cook! 
 
 "Well, we dropped anchor, and I was put ashore with my bag 
 and hammock. Didn't like the looks of the coast, and had half 
 a notion to go aboard again and put back to sea, so I ordered 
 the cut ter to stand by and to clear ship for action, while I rec- 
 onnoitered, to learn, if possible, the exact status of the enemy. 
 
 "Finally I picked up courage and my luggage and got under 
 way, steering due south, direct for the front porch ; rang the 
 bell and asked the servant if I could see Miss Waldron, .'at 
 the same time keeping a weather eye out for squalls, for she 
 was Irish and homely as a Filipino without a G-string, and 
 I didn't know but she might be Miss Waldron ! 
 
 "She told me Miss Waldron was — one minute, laddies, till 
 I light up another fool-killer. 
 
 "Where was I ?" 
 
 I told him the servant was telling him Miss Waldron was — 
 
 "Oh, yes ! She said iMiss Waldren was not at home. 
 "I asked if I might see either her father or mother, and she 
 invited me in to wait until my card was presented. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 299 
 
 "While waiting I saw the photo of Jones lying on the 
 library table with my name written across the corner, and 
 laughed softly to myself, thinking how funny it would be when 
 my Miss Waldron returned, probably in a few moments, and 
 found out my deception. 
 
 "Presently the door opened and an elderly gentleman came 
 in. 
 
 "I stepped forward and introduced myself as Mr. Tad^ who 
 had been engaged to his daughter so long by mail, stating that 
 I had just returned from Manila to keep my promise to her. 
 
 "He held a telegram in his hand, which was shaking ner- 
 vously, and he was very pale. It was quite likely the telegram 
 announcing the time of my arrival. He said there must be 
 some mistake ; that I could not be Mr. Tad, for he had arrived 
 some weeks before ; that the marriage had taken place, and 
 bride and groom were then on their wedding tour in Europe. 
 
 "Suddenly, it all came to me like a flash. I pointed to the 
 picture on the table and asked if that was Mr. Tad. 
 
 "He said that it was; and no doubt took me for a lunatic, 
 for I immediately weighed anchor and got under way. Hooked 
 up all boilers, lashed the wheel to the course, and never stopped 
 even for coal till I reached Manila 'Bay ; and here I am. 
 
 "But to think, laddies, that my old shipmate, who has shared 
 my last ten cents, Mexican, many a time, is now traveling in 
 Europe under my name, spending her money and receiving her 
 caresses ; and all the time she does not, and perhaps never will, 
 know that the real Tad is still in the Philippines. 
 
 "Well, mates, this cigarette has gone out, so let us tackle 
 the ice-water, before I melt and escape through the scupper 
 into the salt of this confounded bay." 
 
 The Brooklyn visited the ports respectively of Chefu, China, 
 Chemulpo, Korea, Vladivostok, Siberia, and Hakodate, Japan. 
 
 CHEFU, CHINA. 
 
 During the Boxer uprising of 1900, Chefu was the cable 
 base, or point from which dispatches from Tien Tsin and Pe- 
 king were forwarded to Washington. Taku being the naval 
 base, the commander-in-chief on the Brooklyn received tele- 
 grams from the army authorities ashore, and preparing them 
 
300 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 in cipher on the regular form, sent them by the daily dispatch 
 boat of the allied powers, detailed each day in turn, to the 
 cable operators at Chefu, who forwarded them on to Washing- 
 ton. 
 
 As you pass into the anchorage off Chefu, the city appears 
 at the base of a small mountain on the left. Winding round the 
 city and up the side of this mountain, the city wall can be seen 
 curling snake-like around knolls and gullies, until at the sum- 
 mit it is lost in the clouds, as it passed on over the peak. 
 
 Flags of various nations can be made out high on staffs 
 above the city, marking the location of separate representa- 
 tives or consuls, "old glory" waving among the rest, at the 
 residence of the United States consul, Mr. John Fowler. 
 
 The Brooklyn found insufficient depth of water to go close 
 in, but the view of Chefu from her anchorage was superb. 
 Green grass carpeted the mountain side, marked here and there 
 by a white stone building, high above the city, making the pic- 
 ture in colors a perfect dream of loveliness. Near this place 
 the great battleship Oregon grounded on her way to Taku at 
 the opening of hostilities in China. 
 
 'During the China trouble of 1900, Chefu was considered 
 a comparatively safe residence for foreigners, and thousands 
 passed through on their way to Shanghai, the principal city 
 of refuge. 
 
 SHANGHAI, CHINA. 
 
 Though Shanghai was not visited on this voyage, I spent a 
 few days there earlier in the year, and deem this a proper place 
 to describe it. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 301 
 
 The men were given liberty here, going ashore in the gaud- 
 ily painted sampans, and were landed in about six inches of 
 soft, oily Chinese mud. One custom that merits remark is 
 that of painting eyes on the bows of their craft, for as they 
 say, "no have eyes, no can see ; no can see, no can sabe : no can 
 sabe, all bloke," and it pleased them greatly when they saw the 
 letter on our boats, thinking, no doubt, that we were at last 
 acknowledging their superior wisdom and painting double eyes 
 on our boats. 
 
 A very neat little railway runs from the anchorage along 
 the Yangtse river about thirty miles up to Shanghai, besides 
 all kinds of other conveyances, such as rickshaws, carriages, 
 and a queer kind of passenger wheel-barrow. 
 
 The road winds its way through rice fields, groves of bamboo 
 and Chinese graveyards. It is very level and raised above the 
 fields and swamps that abound there. 
 
 About half way to the city is a Chinese barracks,, where 
 were stationed from three to five hundred imperial troops, 
 resplendant in yellow and blue silk jackets, trousers very loose, 
 flowing and baggy, but wound close to the lower extremities 
 and held by tight fitting leggings, and a profusion of red 
 sashes and ribbons. 
 
 Except for the few rice fields, the country through which 
 we passed seemed to be one continual graveyard. There were 
 grave mounds all about us. Not like graves in the United 
 States, but the coffin is placed upon the ground with earth 
 piled over it to a height of six to ten feet. Occasionally we 
 would discover an idol, keeping lonely watch over his sleeping 
 
302 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 disciples. It is hardly probable that be receives any remunera- 
 tion for bis services or ever "got a day off." Tbere are sev- 
 eral of them, however, that are "off their base," having prob- 
 ably been knocked down by some of the strong odors from 
 Woosung, which a god of flesh and blood, let alone one of wood, 
 could not stand up against and live. The fallen ones are al- 
 most entirely hidden by the dirt that has accumulated, having 
 in all probability lain there for centuries. 
 
 Soon the visitor begins to realize that he is nearing a city 
 of apparently modern design, for great buildings, factories, 
 warehouses and stores indicate the unmistakable advance of 
 civilization. 
 
 At last we arrived in a European part of the citv, the ap- 
 pearance of which confirms our first impression of it. The 
 streets are broad and well paved. Numerous fine stone build- 
 ings are on either hand, with handsome residences, well kept 
 gardens and many splendid hotels. 
 
 The city, like nearly all European settlements in the orient, 
 is divided into parts for each residing nationality, of which 
 each retains the individuality of its own nation, the manners 
 and customs of each being markedly different. There is an 
 American, French, German, English and Chinese town. 
 Shanghai, however, is pre-eminently English. 
 
 Merchant vessels and small men-of-war from all parts of 
 the world can get over the bar, at the outside anchorage off 
 Woosung, and are lying out in the stream off the city of Shang- 
 hai, loading or unloading cargo. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 303 
 
 One of the finest rambles that a tourist can take and one that 
 none should miss is out to Bubbling Well in the evening. The 
 sight-seer takes the road of that name, and walking away from 
 the city's busy hum and bustle, is soon plunging into the quiet 
 and peace of a beautiful country road, lined on either side by 
 tall, shady trees, which overhang, their branches interlocking, 
 making a leafy roof through which the sunbeams struggle, 
 their mellow light tinting the beautiful scene with flashes of 
 burnished gold. The road is full of crooks and turns, and 
 abounds in cosy retreats, where the indolent may linger and 
 drink in the glorious scene. Artists and photographers make 
 this road their rendezvous. 
 
 In little lanes running off the road are refreshment houses 
 and Chinese tea gardens. 
 
 Beautiful suburban residences, with great parks, skirt Bub- 
 bling Well road for a distance of three or four miles, and an 
 early morning rickshaw ride, or in the evening when the 
 "crush" is driving "four-in-hand" and showing off fine clothes 
 •along the road, is one of the very best means of securing enjoy- 
 ment in Shanghai. 
 
 The Shanghai weather bureau is about four and a half miles 
 from the city, with a Frenchman and Portuguese in charge. 
 Both wore long queues. This is a precaution taken by mis- 
 sionaries and other Europeans who are compelled to mingle 
 with the natives, with the view of propitiating them, as they 
 have a great antipathy to foreigners. 
 
304 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 A short distance from the weather bureau is situated a nur- 
 sery and the orphanage. In the latter place the inmates are ed- 
 ucated and taught useful trades. 
 
 Returning the traveler takes another road, which leads to 
 "Old Shanghai," or China as she was in the days of Confu- 
 cius. You can tell when you are nearing this place, by the 
 innumerable lepers and beggars that beset your path and grow 
 thicker as you near the gate. Some of the former were so in- 
 describably repulsive and made hideous by this loathsome dis- 
 ease that they appeared hardly human. 
 
 At the gate of the city one takes a guide, who is indispen- 
 sable, as by going alone you are in constant danger of violence, 
 and mayhap robbery and murder. 
 
 The streets were narrow and ankle deep in filth, and business 
 of every description carried on in dingy, ill smelling bazars 
 that line them. Should you desire to buy anything to com- 
 memorate your visit to this foul spot, about fifty per cent is 
 added to the price of the article, as commission for the guide, 
 wno is invariably a "Shylock" of the most grasping kind. But, 
 alas, he is indispensable and he knows it. 
 . The old town is enclosed by high granite walls and the in- 
 habitants are not allowed much freedom outside. One appre- 
 ciates the change in the atmosphere on going out, and grate- 
 fully inhales long draughts of pure air into his much abused 
 lungs. 
 
 CHEMULPO, KOREA. 
 
 'Korea extends down from North China between the Sea of 
 Japan and Yellow Sea, west of the Gulf of Pechili, in which 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 305 
 
 Taku, the naval base mentioned above, is situated. Chemulpo, 
 one of its principal cities, is built by the sea on the lower side 
 of the peninsula, and is of great importance from the fact that 
 Russia desires to terminate her great Trans-Siberian rail- 
 way there, but being unable to arrange this, carried it out to 
 Vladivostok, Siberia. 
 
 When the flagship dropped anchor in the harbor of Chemul- 
 po, Korea, I glanced back toward the entrance of the harbor, 
 and to my surprise could see nothing but a chain of islands 
 apparently in the identical spot where we had entered; but 
 on making inquiries, I learned that I was in a great mirage 
 district and that there really were no islands, but simply re- 
 flections on the water. 
 
 The natives came off in small boats, as usual, but they wore 
 strange dress and were different from any other people I had 
 seen. It is a law of the country that, on the death of a crowned 
 head, the people shall wear white mourning; but owing to 
 the numerous deaths in the royal family during recent years, 
 and the period of mourning being three years, the people have 
 adopted white as a permanent national dress, and the cut and 
 style is much like that of biblical days. 
 
 To sit on the old city's wall in the moonlight and gaze over 
 this strange eastern city, makes one almost imagine the en- 
 vironment of the Savior, as the veiled, white-robed figures 
 glide silently about the streets. 
 
 A number of my friends visited Seoul, the capital, with me, 
 and we had the honor ( ?) to sleep in a hotel just outside the 
 gates of his majesty, the emperor's palace. 
 
306 AROUND THK WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 !No building in Seoul may be built more than two stories 
 high, as otherwise the people (ordinary mortals) could look 
 over his majesty's garden wall, and perchance catch a glimpse 
 'of one of his charmers. 
 
 The people look with disfavor upon the "palefaces," and it 
 was with no little relief that I returned to the ship and sailed 
 in her for Vladivostok, Siberia. 
 
 VLADIVOSTOK, SIBEEIA. 
 
 Vladivostok is the terminus of the great Trans-Siberian rail- 
 way, and I had the pleasure of crossing the longest railroad in 
 the world. 
 
 There are two hundred thousand Russian soldiers barracked 
 in Vladivostok, and the majority of the people are exiles, 
 banished from their home country for political offenses. 
 
 They are a tough lot,, and murders, robberies and outrages 
 are familiar headlines in the daily papers. 
 
 A Russian soldier's pay is something like eighteen cents a 
 month, which you can readily see does not make business lively 
 or money easy. 
 
 Morality is decidedly bad and the people keep hours that 
 are ridiculous. They rise at eleven o'clock in the morning, 
 lunch at three in the afternoon and spend most of the night 
 in revelry. 
 
 The military authorities are very strict and the greatest care 
 is taken to prevent foreigners from obtaining descriptions of 
 their fortifications; however, our American officers succeeded 
 in getting into every port of the place, and secured descrip- 
 tions as well as charts of them. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVV 307 
 
 We visited this place early in October and found the weather 
 about the same as January in Iowa. The sleighs, carriages 
 and dress are picturesque. 
 
 When driving a high yoke is fastened over the horse with 
 bells in the arch, and one or two horses hitched to the same 
 whiffletree, but are not checked or reined, simply tied to the 
 horse in shafts. Green overcoats, military boots and fur cloth- 
 ing are seen everywhere. 
 
 On October 29, 1901, the Brooklyn steamed out of the har- 
 bor of Vladivostok, bound for Hakodate, Japan. 
 
 The weather was fine and sea smooth. The scenery was not 
 very interesting — hills appeared bare and rocky. The air of 
 Siberia seemed to weigh upon us all, and all hands were glad 
 to see the last of it. Tyranny, ignorance and depression 
 marked the place as their own. 
 
 HAKODATE, JAPAN. 
 
 We arrived off Hakodate at seven o'clock on the morning of 
 October thirty-first, and I saw, for the first time in three 
 years, snow upon the mountain tops back of the city. It re- 
 minded me forcibly of America, and the desire for home came 
 almost overpoweringly upon me. How one does long for a 
 glimpse of his native land after a few months' absence. I be- 
 lieve my greatest desire was for America rather than for home, 
 though that came next. 
 
 Hakodate is a pretty city of several thousand inhabitants, 
 situated on the sea and surrounded on all landsides by undu- 
 lating small mountains, which range down the coast as far as 
 the eye can reach. The city is typical in construction, situa- 
 
308 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 tion and customs. The harbor is a busy one and ships from 
 many countries were anchored there discharging and shipping 
 cargo. 
 
 "Old glory" could be seen waving high over the housetops 
 at the residence of our consul. It always looked good to us 
 when entering a port to see the dear old flag floating on the breeze 
 a welcome to us. It makes one feel "at home." 
 
 As there is nothing of particular interest beyond my pre- 
 vious Japanese descriptions in Hakodate, I will pass on to 
 the subject of Yokohama, to which place we proceeded after 
 a couple of days' stay in the port of Hakodate. 
 
 YOKOHAMA, JAPAN. 
 
 Early on the morning of 'November fourth the silver tipped 
 peak of "Fujiyama," the pride of Japan, burst on our sight 
 in all its majestic glory. Fujiyama is a mountain about sixty 
 miles inland from Yokohama, discernible for a distance of 
 eighty miles at sea. 
 
 As we steamed into the harbor, everything was bustle and 
 confusion. Sampans were darting hither and thither, loaded 
 with gesticulating Japanese, Chinese and East Indian mer- 
 chants, all anxious to get on board first and dispose of their 
 wares at fabulous prices to the green and gullible "jacktars." 
 As soon as we dropped our "mud-hook," they swarmed aboard ; 
 the Indians tall and stately with their flowing robes and long 
 black hair, carrying small black valises, their main article of 
 traffic being jewelry and precious stones; the Chinamen were 
 tailors, while the Japanese were, well, they were everything. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 309 
 
 It was amusing to see a little brown fellow, about three feet 
 nothing, carrying a huge bundle under which only his legs 
 could be seen, and giving one the impression that they must 
 be overburdened; but you are soon disillusioned, for as soon 
 as he reaches a clear place on the deck, down goes the bundle, 
 two brown hands flash, around the knots, the ends of the en- 
 folding cloth are thrown open and the dazzling array of wares 
 are spread temptingly before you, while a smiling face show- 
 ing two rows of large white teeth, greets you with the remark, 
 "Velly good curios. You likie buy? Melikan man have got 
 plenty money." 
 
 Visitors to the orient should observe one rule to the letter, 
 and that is to give a Chinaman one-half of what he asks for 
 anything, and the Jap's first price should be divided by three. 
 The observation of this rule will guarantee a traveler against 
 paying more than twice what the article is worth. 
 
 Shortly after anchoring, as is the custom in every port, we 
 began firing salutes, starting with the Japanese, then the Eng- 
 lish, French, German, Russian and other foreign men-of-war 
 lying in harbor according to rank. Then followed all the offi- 
 cial visiting between the foreign men-of-war and Japanese 
 officials and the admiral, which seems so essential to naval 
 ethics. Still everything went off with a snap and precision 
 that denotes thorough training. 
 
 Here we became acquainted with the whole-souled, big-heart- 
 ed ( ?) Tommy Matsu, comprador. Oh, he "long time sabe 
 Melikan man-of-war," and he did without a doubt. He brought 
 off eggs that must have been laid before the war and saved es- 
 
310 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 pecially for us ; juicy steaks from the water-buffalo — the shoe- 
 makers made fine sea boots from them, but it would have been 
 cheaper to buy them ready made. The chickens he sold prob- 
 ably perched upon Noah's ark, and crowed to apprise "old 
 pop" Noah when it was time to get up and let out the cat. 
 
 QVlatsu kept a saloon ashore where he regaled the boys with 
 blue vitriol labeled "Pure Scotch," at twenty sen per dose. 
 He was an unparalleled scoundrel and not a fair representa- 
 tive of his countrymen. 
 
 Liberty was granted, and the boys took advantage of the 
 opportunity in seeing the city and all the "sights." Many of 
 them went to Tokyo, Japan's capital. The round trip can 
 be made, giving a day and night in the capital, by train, the 
 fare being one yen twenty sen, or about sixty cents in United 
 States currency. 
 
 Tokyo is a delightful place to visit. There are many things 
 of interest to be seen, chief among them are the various old 
 temples and the emperor's palace, which is surrounded by spa- 
 cious grounds, deep moats and lofty walls. At the entrance to 
 the palace ,is stationed a body guard of foot soldiers in blue 
 coats and bright scarlet trousers. Another place of interest 
 is the famous Uyeno Park, which contains a well equipped 
 menagerie, library, museum of natural history, beautiful gar- 
 dens and driveways. 
 
 The curio shops in Tokyo are famous and well worth visit- 
 ing. A Japanese curio store is a perfect maze of strange, use- 
 less variety, the most cunning little trick boxes, puzzles and 
 contrivances imaginable, can be obtained at a very small cost. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 311 
 
 The attendants or clerks are mostly women and they speak 
 very little English. 
 
 The European papers published in Yokohama are the "Adver- 
 tiser," "Gazette," "Japan Mail" and "Herald," dailies, and 
 the "Box of Curios," weekly, the latter being one of the few 
 American papers published in all Asia. 
 
 A great many of the crew attended performances at various 
 native theatres on the avenue known as Theatre street. The 
 price of admission for Japs is two or three sen, but for "Jack" 
 it is all they can get, many of the greenest paying a dollar or 
 two to see about as "bum" a show as was ever forced upon 
 the suffering public. However, I found their shows entertain- 
 ing, as nothing of the kind had ever before come under my obser- 
 vation. 
 
 A few miles from Yokohama there is a little city and a great 
 navy yard. Yokosuka is an ideal navy yard, being naturally 
 adapted for fortification, and many a grim looking gun pro- 
 trudes its black muzzle threateningly over the bay. The en- 
 trance to the harbor is very narrow and thickly mined, and 
 there are many reefs and shoals which are a great menace to 
 ships not aware of their location. 
 
 The town is mainly inhabited by government employes and 
 is about an hour's run by rail from Yokohama. 
 
 A jackie I knew once told me of their ringing in of a new 
 year on board the vessel on which he was at the time serving, 
 while at anchor in Yokohama, that was rather interesting. 
 He told it as follows : 
 
312 AROUND THE WOK.LD IN THE NAVY 
 
 "New Year's day was coming on and the lads were getting 
 their heads together to give it a warm reception. On account 
 of the severe discipline maintained on the ship, each fellow 
 who participated in any skylarking had to make himself as 
 scarce as possible. The time came. Our police were safely 
 wrapped in the arms of Morpheus. A close observer might 
 have seen two dark forms, flat on their stomachs, gliding over 
 the wet deck (for it was raining) toward the ship's bell. An- 
 other form, equally stealthy, but not so wet, might have been 
 seen lurking under the 'hood of the conning tower passage, 
 while still another kept necessary and vigilant watch on the 
 movements of the officer-of-the-deck. Added to this a crowd 
 of about twenty, each armed with souce-kettles, dish-pans and 
 spud-mashers, were quietly grouped about the hatch on the gun 
 deck. 
 
 "Soon the faint and far off ringing of a bell ashore is heard ; 
 the quartermaster comes down from the bridge and strikes 
 very softly and gently the necessary eight bells to indicate that 
 twelve o'clock has arrived. Hardly is his back turned ere, with 
 a wild yell, the two skulking wet figures spring into activity; 
 with a bound one seizes the bell rope and strikes eight bells 
 for the new year as it has never been struck before, and the 
 figure in the conning tower turns on the full force of the elec- 
 tric fire alarm. Gongs are ringing all over the ship, the crowd 
 of raving maniacs sacrifice the mess gear; the sleeping ship's 
 company are aroused,, the chorus is swelled and bedlam is 
 loose. In twenty minutes everything is quiet again and every 
 one feels better for this relaxation from tension of strict naval 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 313 
 
 discipline. But next day, when the cooks see their mess gear, 
 there is a howl, and the heroes of last night's adventures are 
 discreetly silent." 
 
 A few hours' ride in another direction from Yokohama takes 
 one to the town of Kamaqura, near where the famous idol Dai- 
 Butsu sits upon his throne. His history is in brief: 
 
 In the year 737 A. D., the emperor, Shomu, being a sincere 
 devotee to Buddhism, caused numerous monasteries to be 
 erected throughout Japan, and among the other churches thus 
 built and endowed by his majesty is that known as the "Ko- 
 toku-in" at Kamnakura. 
 
 In the grounds of this ancient fane stands the famous co- 
 lossal bronze image of the great Buddha which was cast in 
 September, A. D. 1252, by the celebrated glyptic artist, Ono 
 Go-bo-ye-mon, in accordance with commands received from the 
 Shogun (Prince Munetaka) who assisted Itano ISTo Tsubone 
 to carry out her pious desire of fulfilling the dying injunc- 
 tions of Minamoto ISTo Yoritomo, one of whose waiting ladies 
 she had been. The image was much injured by a tidal wave 
 which swept over the site of the monastery A. D. 1495, yet 
 notwithstanding the ravages of time and the fury of the ele- 
 ments, it is in a state of excellent preservation and repair. 
 
 It is about fifty feet in height, ninety-eight feet in circum- 
 ference ; the length of the face is eight and a half feet, of the 
 eye four feet, of the ear six and a half feet, and of the nose 
 three feet eight inches. The breadth of the mouth is three 
 feet two and a half inches, the length from knee to knee is 
 
314 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 thirty-six feet, and the circumference of the thumb is over 
 three feet! 
 
 I visited this image on November 17, 1901, and found my- 
 self well repaid for my visit. There are a number of fine tem- 
 ples in this vicinity. 
 
 Friends Babcock, Gage and I spent Sunday in Kamakura 
 and vicinity, taking lunch at a very nice native hotel for Eu- 
 ropeans. 
 
 Though it is contrary to naval discipline to appear in civil- 
 ian dress ashore, we took our own risk and donned "store 
 clothes" once more, for the first time during my military ser- 
 vice. It seemed rather strange and we enjoyed it immensely 
 until, during lunch, who should enter the dining room but 
 the admiral and Captain Dickens. Of course, we could not 
 stand "at attention" or otherwise recognize them or draw their 
 ofiicial attention to us, sq, choking down the last bit of roast 
 duck as quickly as possible, we hurriedly left the hotel, miss- 
 ing what appeared to be an excellent desert. I shall always, 
 perhaps, wonder what it might have tasted like. 
 
 The admiral very generously failed to notice us, but we were 
 in considerable fear during the next few days, lest his silence 
 was only the forerunner of a storm, but he took no notice of it. 
 
 In Yokohama there are a number of fine silk stores, where 
 for marvelously low prices can be obtained the finest silks of 
 all descriptions. Their hand embroidery is famous the world 
 over. 
 
 In one store I saw several kimonas elaborately embroidered 
 in colors, ranging in prices from ten yen to five hundred. But, 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 315 
 
 owing to the heavy importation duties on silk, I purchased 
 nothing but a few handkerchiefs and twenty yards of fine pon- 
 gee silk. They have received such great praise from my 
 friends and relatives here that I have deeply regretted that 
 some of the more beautiful work did not accompany them. 
 
 The hotel Mietropole, one of the finest European hotels in 
 the orient, burned one night when I was ashore in Yokohama, 
 illuminating the sky over the entire city. Thousands of peo- 
 ple witnessed the conflagration and several lives were lost 
 among its guests and attendants. This was considered a great 
 loss to travelers, as a truly comfortable hotel is a great luxury 
 in Japan. 
 
 The customs of the people make native hotels undesirable 
 for Europeans, and the Metropole was considered a haven of 
 rest among tourists. There remain several hotels, but none 
 seem to reach the high state of popularity enjoyed by the, 
 Metropole. 
 
 In Yokohama are a great many book stores, where native 
 publications are on sale. I found the native literature very 
 interesting and unique, especially the childish fairy stories. 
 They are usually printed in little pamphlets on crepe paper, 
 profusely illustrated in colors and the language is childishly 
 simple, while at the same time descriptive and easy to under- 
 stand. They illustrate the childish nature of the unhampered 
 Japanese mind, which is the real characteristic of all Japanese 
 people. The following is a fairy tale translated into English 
 of this class, that may interest my child readers, entitled : 
 
316 around the world in the navy 
 
 "the enchanted waterfall. 
 
 ^Once upon a time there lived along with his father and 
 mother a simple young wood cutter. He worked hard all day 
 on a lonely hillside or among the shady .trees of the forest. 
 But work as hard as he might, he was still very poor, and could 
 bring home but little money to his old father and mother. 
 This grieved him very much, for he was an affectionate and 
 dutiful son. 
 
 "For himself he had but few wants and was easily pleased. 
 His mother, too, was always cheerful and contented. The old 
 father, however, was of a selfish disposition, and often grum- 
 bled at the poor supper of rice, washed down with weak tea, 
 or, if times were very bad, with a cup of hot water. 
 
 " 'If we had but a little sake, now,' he would say, 'it would 
 warm one up and do one's heart good.' And he would reproach 
 the simple young fellow, vowing that in his young days he had 
 always been able to afford a cup of sake for himself and his 
 friends. Grieved at heart, the young man would work harder 
 than ever and think to himself, 'How shall I earn some more 
 money ? How shall I get a little sake for my poor old father, 
 who really needs it in his weakness and old age ?' 
 
 "He was thinking in this way to himself one day as he was 
 at work on the wooded hills, when the sound of rus'hing water 
 caught his ear. He had often worked in the same spot before, 
 and he could not remember that there was any torrent or water- 
 fall near. So, feeling rather surprised, he followed the sound, 
 which got louder and louder until at last he came upon a beau- 
 tiful little cascade. 
 
 "The water looked so clear and cool that he stooped down 
 where it was flowing away in a quiet stream and, using hand 
 as a cup, drank a little of i,t. What was his amazement to find 
 that instead of water, it was the most excellent sake ! 
 
 "Overjoyed at this discovery, he quickly filled the gourd 
 which was hanging at his girdle, and made the best of his way 
 home, rejoicing that now at last he had something good to 
 bring back to his poor old father. The old man was so delighted 
 with the sake that he drank cup after cup. A neighbor hap- 
 pening to drop in, the story was told to him, and a cup of sake 
 offered and drunk with many words of astonishment and grati- 
 tude. 
 
 "Soon the news spread through the village, and before night 
 there was hardly a man in the place who had not paid his visit 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 317 
 
 of curiosity, been told the tale of the magic fountain and 
 smelt the gourd, which, alas, was now empty. 
 
 "Next morning the young woodcutter set off to work earlier 
 even than usual, not forgetting to carry with him a large 
 gourd, for of course the enchanted waterfall was to be visited 
 again. 
 
 "What was the surprise of the young man when he came to 
 the spot, to find several of his neighbors already there, and 
 all armed wi,th buckets, jars, pitchers; anything that would 
 carry a good supply of the coveted sake. Each man had come 
 secretly, believing that he alone had found his way to the magic 
 waterfall. 
 
 " 'Here we are,' said one, 'all bent on the same errand. Let 
 us fill our jars and gourds and go home. But first, jus,t one 
 taste of the magic sake.' He stooped down and filling his 
 gourd put it to his lips. Once and yet again did he drink, 
 with a face of astonishment, which soon gave place to anger. 
 
 " 'Water!' he shouted in a rage. 'Nothing but cold water! 
 We have been tricked and deceived by a parcel of madeup 
 stories — where is that young fellow ? Let us duck him in his 
 fine waterfall!' 
 
 "But the young man had been wise enough to sit behind a 
 big rock when he saw the turn things were taking, and was no- 
 where to be found. First one and then another tasted of the 
 stream. It was but too true ; no sake, but clear, cold water 
 was there. Crestfallen and out of temper, the covetous band 
 returned to their homes. 
 
 "When they were fairly gone the young wood cutter crept 
 from his hiding place. 'Could this be true?' he thought, 'or 
 was it all a dream ? At any rate,' said he, 'I must taste once 
 more for myself.' He filled the gourd and drank. Sure 
 enough, there was the same finely flavored sake he had tasted 
 yesterday. And so it remained. To the good, dutiful son the 
 cascade flowed with the finest sake, while to all others it yielded 
 only cold water. 
 
 "The emperor hearing this wonderful story, sent for the good 
 young wood cutter, rewarded him for his kindness to his father 
 and even changed the name of the year in his honor, as an en- 
 couragement to children in all future time to honor and obey 
 their parents." ; I 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 RETURN VIA HONOLULU TO SAN FRANCISCO, THENCE OVERLAND 
 TO NEW YORK AROUND THE WORLD DIS- 
 CHARGED BACK ON BROADWAY. 
 
 P 
 
 ,RIOR TO LEAVING Manila the admiral issued an order 
 to send all men having only three months or less to serve 
 on their enlistments to the United States by army trans- 
 port. Eive minutes after this order was posted on the bulletin 
 board on the Brooklyn tremendous excitement prevailed. Most 
 of the men having short times to serve, had spent three years 
 in the orient, some of them had spent six, and a few ten to 
 fifteen years away from home. 
 
 It is hard for the inexperienced mind to grasp such a situa- 
 tion. Think of it! Ten thousand miles from home, friends, 
 sweetheart, America! ISTo society, little pleasure, except 
 through letters from home, and ofttimes they were unsatisfac- 
 tory and more often failed for months in their arrival. One 
 toiled away, in whatever branch of the service he might find 
 himself detailed, with no hope whatever of happiness before 
 the expiration of the three years for which he was bound, and 
 planned, hoped and despaired by turns. There was never any 
 positive assurance of living to see home again; one could only 
 hope and carry as bright a face as he had strength of mind. 
 Added to this was the rigid discipline and privation of ship- 
 board life; the arrogance of superior officers; the association 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 319 
 
 with men in all grades of immorality, ignorance and vulgarity 
 from the four corners of the earth. 
 
 Bright, well educated, honest, well bred young gentlemen 
 toiled at hard manual labor beside colored men, sat at table 
 with them and found no fault whatever. Jack says, "Give me 
 a ship with a sound hull, good strong engines and proper steer- 
 ing gear, and I'll not grumble at the paint on her." These 
 were his sentiments with regard to men, but far worse than 
 association with the negro, in his estimation, came the service 
 under petty officers of foreign speech (Germans, Dutchmen, 
 Swedes, etc., who spoke our language brokenly and domineered 
 those under their command) who, because of their ancestral 
 servitude were said to be more willing and submissive under 
 Annapolis officers and, therefore, better liked and more often 
 promoted. These foreigners are termed "square-heads" by 
 jack, and to serve under a square-head petty officer was con- 
 sidered the greatest aggravation possible. 
 
 All these things conduced to misery and the disagreeable 
 points I have enumerated multiplied by years intensified a 
 thousand fold the joy overflowing in the breasts of those whose 
 enlistments lacked but three months of expiration when the 
 boatswain's mate passed the word^ "All men having less than 
 three months to serve, lay aft to the executive officer's office." 
 We promptly dropped everything and "layed." 
 
 The executive officer received us in his private office one by 
 one and informed us that we could take our choice between the 
 two propositions; be transferred to the station ship to await 
 further transfer to an army transport going to America, the 
 
320 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 sailing of which was indefinite, or remain on the Brooklyn un- 
 til she reached Yokohama, when those of us who might remain 
 would "probably" be sent home by mail steamer, provided the 
 Brooklyn did not receive orders to proceed to the United 
 States about that time, in which event we would have to re- 
 main in her until arrival in America, which might be several 
 months. 
 
 A greater part of the "short-timers" decided to be transferred 
 to the station ship and take their chances in an army transport. 
 
 There remained but two months of my enlistment, so, be- 
 lieving the Brooklyn's movements to be very uncertain, I made 
 up my mind to remain behind and risk reaching home by army 
 transport, though I had information that she would not sail 
 for over a month, and that in the meantime the men going to 
 the station ship would be very uncomfortable in temporary 
 quarters. However, I was "advised" by one of the admiral's 
 aides, which meant considerable more than the simple word 
 "advise," to remain on the Brooklyn, that my services were 
 required there, and that if I would forego my right to remain 
 behind on the station ship, he would see that I was sent home 
 by mail steamer on arrival at Yokohama, Japan. 
 
 This being the very end I was working for, satisfied me and 
 I stood on deck and cheered for the "homeward bound boys," 
 as they left the ship with a will. 
 
 Their condition proved afterwards to be much as I had be- 
 lieved it would be. They waited a month in the terrible heat 
 and discomfort of Manila Bay, in crowded and uncomfortable 
 quarters, then went aboard an army transport; after repeated 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 321 
 
 attempts to get out of the bay, she finally headed for Nagasaki. 
 Japan; she broke down, the boys were transferred to another 
 transport, waited nearly a month in Japan, started out once 
 more and struck a rock, or grounded, then, after repairs, and 
 considerable more delay, they finally headed out across the 
 Pacific for San Francisco. A more disgusted lot of men 
 would have been hard to find. One of them came to Yokohama, 
 while the transport was "laying up," and his reports of "hard 
 luck" were amusing. He said the men had spent all their 
 money; could not draw money from the army, of course, so 
 they had sold nearly all their curios, spent the money, and had 
 started in to sell their clothes, in order to get "liberty money." 
 
 We fared better on the Brooklyn. After a very pleasant 
 cruise about the countries mentioned in preceding chapters, 
 we finally arrived in Yokohama and learned that the "draft" 
 was still in Japan. 
 
 On arrival in Yokohama, I reminded the admiral's aide of 
 his promise concerning my homegoing, and orders were at once 
 written to the paymaster of the fleet to secure transportation 
 for Miller, the admiral's printer, myself and fifteen men, mak- 
 ing seventeen, all told. 
 
 As soon as the order was issued, I went out on deck and told 
 all the men who were to go. They were wild with ex- 
 citement. Caps were thrown in the air ; they hugged each other 
 in their delight, and Miller and I ran about the ship like ma- 
 niacs, trying to tell our friends we were going home, talking 
 incoherently, neither paying any attention to what either him- 
 self or the other fellow was saying. We ran forward to the 
 
322 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 forecastle every few minutes to look for the Doric, the Pacific 
 mail steamer in which we expected to sail, which vessel was 
 expected to arrive that day. 
 
 The aide in charge of correspondence gave up all hope of 
 getting any more work out of me. A thousand memories of 
 home and friends came like an avalanche upon me, blinding 
 me with their overpowering profusion and eliminating all 
 power or desire to handle correspondence. Not me ! I wanted 
 the Doric, and I wanted her so bad that I just about had to 
 have her. 
 
 The Doric finally came in, several hours late in arrival. We 
 packed our clothes and curios up, bade goodbye to many of 
 our friends and "stood by" for the order to "leave the ship." 
 This order did not come, but the paymaster did, came back 
 from the ticket office with the encouraging information that 
 no accommodation was available on the Doric, but that the 
 agent had promised to send us on the next steamer. 
 
 Well, we were about the sickest lot of fellows imaginable. 
 Our friends flocked about us and nearly fell over each other in 
 mock goodbyes. Some said they believed it was a trick to fool 
 us, that they had never meant to send U'3 home ; others "'lowed 
 it was more pleasant on the ship than tramping in the states ;" 
 and they asked what "was the use" of going home only to reen- 
 list at once or starve. Many and varied were the jokes they 
 made that day, but we took it all in silence; previous naval 
 experience had taught us the good sense of silence. 
 
 About the end of the week we began to have hopes again. 
 The paymaster had told somebody and somebody had told 
 
AROUND THE WOXLD IN THB NAVY 323 
 
 somebody else who said he believed we might get to go on the 
 Nipon Maru, sailing a week later than the Doric. This was not 
 much, but it was something that sounded good, so we nursed 
 it a little and bye and bye we had catered to it so much that it 
 grew and grew until, finally, it blossomed into a full fledged 
 conviction that we were "sure" going on the Nipon Maru. 
 
 Miller and I watched three days for the Nipon Maru, two 
 days and a half before she was due ; but, who knows, she might 
 be ahead of time. vBut she was not; she steamed in the bay 
 of Yokohama "right on the dot" and dropped her "mud hook" 
 inside the breakwater. 
 
 The "pay" went ashore again and stayed until the wee small 
 hours of the night, so that it was not until nearly noon the next 
 day that Miller "squeezed out of him" the overpowering news 
 that "it was no go;" we must wait for the Peru, sailing eight 
 days later. 
 
 Well, we went below and unpacked everything, well know- 
 ing that this was the only "sure" way to ever get away for 
 America. 
 
 Another week was dragged out minute by minute. Miller 
 and I had the remainder of our service figured out in seconds 
 and passed some time decently away in subtracting the seconds 
 in odd numbers every eight or ten minutes. Miller even went 
 out on deck and voluntarily loaned a fellow five dollars for 
 two weeks, in order to coax the Peru along to take us in a week. 
 That was a "fetcher." 
 
 The "pay" had been confidentially interviewed by every 
 man in the draft at least a dozen times to know if passage had 
 
324 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 been secured by cable, telegraph, letter — anything, so long as 
 we got it. The "pay," executive officer, captain and on down 
 to the ship's cook was waylaid and questioned as to the pas- 
 sage on the Peru for the draft, until every man on the ship 
 was sick and tired of the subject. Even the cat would hist 
 his back, show his teeth and "scat" when he saw one of the 
 draft coming his way. He need not have been so "sassy," for 
 he got nearly all the victuals of the entire seventeen men for 
 three weeks; none of us could eat. I believe if we had been 
 kept much longer there would have been no need to send us in 
 anything but a box. 
 
 Well, something "fetched" her. Miller and I held a long 
 debate over the matter ; resolved, w T as it owing to the fact that 
 he had loaned a fellow five dollars for two weeks, or to the fact 
 that we had unpacked all our "things," that the Peru finally 
 came in and passage was actually secured in her ? It was never 
 fully decided, and I leave it to my readers to settle. 
 
 At any rate, something "fetched" her, and with a draft of 
 sixteen men,, I left the flagship Brooklyn on the morning of 
 ISTovember twenty-third and went aboard the Pacific mail 
 steamer. 
 
 The Peru is a small passenger steamer, with black hull and 
 white upper works. She was neat to perfection, every rope, 
 hatch cover, deck chair, etc., in its proper place. She steams 
 eighteen to twenty knots per hour and makes the run from 
 Yokohama to San Francisco m seventeen days. Her officers 
 are Americans and her crew mixed Americans and Chinese. 
 She is fitted up with first and second cabin and oriental steer- 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 325 
 
 age. There were several hundred Japanese on board, quar- 
 tered much the same as hogs in a stock car forward in the 
 oriental steerage. They were bound for Honolulu, and their 
 passage was a terrible one. Packed like sardines in the black, 
 foul hole, they merely existed through a ten day period of sea 
 sickness and misery, to Honolulu. The Peru is about as well 
 arranged for oriental steerage passengers as any Eastern ocean 
 steamer (Pacific), but the reduced fare allowed orientals 
 necessitates limited quarters and they nearly always take the 
 cheapest passage, regardless of comfort. 
 
 We were quartered in the second cabin, which is located aft, 
 and were allowed the freedom of the "quarterdeck," Being 
 the only second cabin passengers, we had plenty of room and 
 the jackies "went in" for skylarking immediately on going 
 aboard. 
 
 The second cabin was fitted up with little staterooms and 
 bunks in two tiers. Electricity and hot and cold water were 
 furnished ; our accommodations were complete. 
 
 And such a change from man-of-war life. The food was 
 excellent ; officers addressed us with politeness, spoke to us in 
 kindly voices and treated us with respect. We felt that wc 
 were already out of the navy and for the first time in years 
 our hearts swelled with that true feeling of freedom that marks 
 people as Yankees the world over. 
 
 Promptly at noon, as scheduled, the Peru slowly steamed 
 past the Brooklyn, that magnificent fighting ship of Santiago 
 fame, with our little band of jackies standing at "attention" 
 in her honor for the last time. 
 
326 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 One of our party was a bugler, and as the clear call of his 
 bugle sounding "attention" was wafted across the water to our 
 old shipmates, we gave three hearty cheers for the dear old 
 ship and the boys left behind. They manned the side and re- 
 turned our cheer with a will, while the steam whistle of the 
 Peru sent blast after blast across the waters in sympathy with 
 the happy event, "When Jack Comes Sailing Home." These 
 great ships, as though they understood, gracefully dipped "old 
 glory" to each other, and almost before I could realize it, the 
 flagship Brooklyn, my old home for eighteen months, appeared 
 but a small speck of glimmering white upon the horizon. 
 
 lAiter nearly three years of absence from America, home 
 and friends, I felt with profound joy the throbbing of machin- 
 ery which was set in motion to carry us back with all the speed 
 that steam can insure. 
 
 Out across the great Pacific, with the grace of a swan, the 
 Peru glided, throbbing and panting with seeming impatience 
 at the resistance of a sluggishly calmn sea; she rose, rolled, 
 tossed her bow, and gently fell again, as though completely 
 exhausted with the struggles, only to renew with increased 
 vigor the toiling toward Uncle Sam's shores. 
 
 Life aboard the Peru was very pleasant. Her officers were 
 extremely friendly and courteous. She was a good sea vessel, 
 but, being rather small, tossed and rolled considerably in the 
 choppy swell. 
 
 Our little band of sailors were the j oiliest lot on the ship, 
 and held nightly revels on the quarterdeck which often brought 
 the first cabin passengers aft to breathe their share of the at- 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THR NAVY 327 
 
 mosphere of gaity. Mimic drills, fire quarters, battle, roll 
 call, "mast," where the captain metes out punishment to men 
 for breaches of discipline, and other affairs on board ship were 
 held, all hands playing a part, which caused the days to pass 
 by much more pleasantly than would have been the case if we 
 had been content to mope and wish for the end of the voyage. 
 A seventeen day voyage toward home was as nothing to us after 
 traveling, during the three year cruise, enough miles to reach 
 more than three times around the world. 
 
 "Blackie" and "Smithie" held first and second places, re- 
 spectively, in the nightly revelry. "Blackie," being a French- 
 man, danced and sang French songs as his own accompani- 
 ment. At regular intervals he would go below, reappearing 
 presently with a big "square-face" bottle of gin under his arm. 
 Using the bottle as an imaginary lady partner, he would waltz 
 and two-step about the deck, singing his own accompaniment, 
 with all the calm, apparent forgetf ulness of &eli and rapture im- 
 aginable. His attempts at grace, occasionally interrupted by a 
 roll of the vessel that would send him sprawling in the scup- 
 per, were positively "killing" in their awkwardness. "Blackie" 
 waltzed much the same as a cow might, his heavy figure turn- 
 ing and twisting in the loose fitting sailor togs appeared so 
 ridiculous that "Smithie" could not resist the temptation to 
 joke him a little. A "chaw" between the two would follow 
 something after this style: 
 
 Smithie — "Say, Blackie, you waltz all right, except your 
 feet" 
 
328 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 Blackie — '"What else can you expect of me with no more 
 room to waltz in than this — I've only got two feet." 
 
 Smithie — "Yes, I see you have only two, but you would 
 have been a taller man if they hadn't turned so much of your 
 legs down for feet." 
 
 Blackie — "Oh, pipe down about feet; watch me do a polka." 
 
 Smithie — "Poker, is it? Well, I call you; I've got four 
 aces. What have you got ?" 
 
 Blackie 1 — "Oh! I've got sich a headache! Und I veel zick 
 to my stumach. Smithie, vont ye blease smile at th' steward, 
 zo he vill throw un orange at you ? I think I need one." 
 
 (Smithie — '"What's the use, we couldn't feed it to you with- 
 out a syringe, on account of the size of your mouth." (Blackie 
 had an abnormally large mouth.) 
 
 Blackie — "Oh, you go and fall overboard ; you might as well ; 
 you can't land at 'Frisco without showing citizen papers, on 
 account of the map of Italy stick' n out all over your face." 
 
 Smithie — "Polly want a crac — , or, I beg pardon, Polly voo 
 Fransa ?" 
 
 Blackie — "Say, Smithie, aint it about time you shut up ? 
 Here, take this dime and go git a hair-cut." 
 
 Smithie — '"Look here, Blackie, while you are about it you 
 might as well give me a dollar and I'll git 'em all cut." 
 
 So they carried on, hour after hour, until the rest of the 
 party reaching their limit, would chase them below to find 
 united consolation in the gin bottle. 
 
 We were favored with beautiful weather during the entire 
 voyage to Honolulu. Bright sun, smooth sea, with a sky clear 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 329 
 
 and blue, tinged here and there with occasional passing silver 
 clouds, gave that Indian summer cast to the weather so neces- 
 sary to a perfect sea voyage. To sit on deck, under heavy awn- 
 ings, during those bright afternoons, off to one side of the deck 
 with only my pipe for company, and dream of my home-going ; 
 the meeting with loved ones; alterations in my affairs since 
 my departure, and a thousand other things that would be of 
 interest, was delight almost worth three years' hard service 
 to experience. How would my mother look ? Was her hair 
 white ? When I left it was gray, but time might have altered 
 all that. Would father be the same jolly "old dad" that I had 
 left, it seemed, ages ago ? 
 
 But, alas, was it wise for me to dream and build castles in 
 the air on my prospect of reaching home ? It was true, the 
 sea rolled in ordinary calmness, the air was not unusually 
 threatening, the machinery of the ship was, apparently, in ex- 
 cellent condition. But the Rio de Janeiro was said to have 
 gone down in just five minutes after she struck with nearly all 
 hands on board. Could it be possible that I was afraid of the 
 ship sinking with me before arrival in "God's country" % Pos- 
 sibly, a little. A thousand things might happen in a day, and 
 I wanted, oh, so much, to see home and friends again ! It is 
 impossible to picture to a mind with no similar experience with 
 which to make comparisons the doubts, fears and agonies of 
 longing that beset one under such a condition. One could only 
 hope and wait, perhaps pray a little. One could only feel un- 
 comforted the desire to urge the good ship on at a more rapid 
 speed. At times she seemed to mope along at a snail's pace. 
 
330 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 Seventeen days is a long time to wait with nothing but sky 
 and water composing the horizon, when one is coming home. 
 
 The monotony was broken only by a day's visit in Honolulu, 
 Hawaiian Islands, which was all that was required to complete 
 the happiness of our home coming. 
 
 Honolulu is a veritable Eden and is rapidly gaining in com- 
 mercial importance. The missionaries originally sent out by 
 the United States have a strong hold and the people are divided 
 into a missionary and people's party. 
 
 These parties are continually at war with each other con- 
 cerning the government. The missionary party is said to be 
 in the majority and more powerful in the possession of wealth. 
 
 On entering Honolulu harbor the vessel passes through a 
 channel blasted through the solid rock of a reef extending 
 across the mouth of the harbor. On either side of the buoyed 
 channel water dashes upon the dangerous reef, tossing spray 
 dozens of feet into the air. Its roar can be heard for miles. 
 
 The harbor is a busy one, merchant vessels from all parts 
 of the world line the docks and men-of-war and army trans- 
 ports are generally to be seen in or near port. 
 
 The Peru steamed into Honolulu harbor at night, giving us 
 an excellent opportunity to view the city when illuminated. 
 All along the beach in front of the city stretched a line of arc 
 lights which gave sufficient illumination for the loading and 
 unloading of vessels. On the domes and towers about the city 
 were placed extra lights marking here and there the location 
 of superior masonry. Farther on back of the city, up the in- 
 cline to "Punch Bowl" crater, runs a zigzag line of electric 
 
AROUND THB WORLD IN THE NAVY 331 
 
 lights from the base to the top of the small mountain, follow- 
 ing the electric railway in its windings to the very summit. 
 These lights appear from the sea to be one continuous line of 
 fire and the effect is magnificent. 
 
 The Peru tied up at the dock and began unloading and load- 
 ing mail and cargo at once. Natives assisted in this work, and 
 one of the strangest facts of my travels was met with, here: a 
 brown man speaking excellent English. So accustomed had I be- 
 come to the jabbering of foreign tongue among colored men, 
 that I paid little attention to these Honolulu people at first ; 
 but finally it seemed to me that I could make out what they 
 were saying, and upon giving it my attention a moment, felt 
 considerably mortified to recognize my own tongue. 
 
 About nine o'clock in the morning "all hands" went ashore 
 to have a few hours' ramble over the city. The Peru was not 
 to sail before evening, so that we had almost an entire day in 
 which to visit this "hula-hula" land. 
 
 Leaving the Pacific mail docks, we passed along the mail 
 steamer docks, through an immense freight house onto the 
 main shore road. Five minutes' walk brought us to the city 
 market. This is one of the finest fish, meat, vegetable and fruit 
 markets I have ever seen. An immense shed, under which are 
 fish tanks, tables, vats and booths or stalls, where fruit, cigars, 
 soft drinks, etc., are sold. The whole was kept very clean, 
 and there was little of the customary "market smell" to be de- 
 tected about the place. It is conducted mainly by natives. 
 
 Across the street from the market is the United States naval 
 station which is being completed. It covers considerable 
 
332 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 ground, and judging from the class of unfinished work going 
 on, it will he a model naval station. 
 
 Leaving the market, we proceeded down town. Found the 
 city up-to-date and the people not far behind. A great many 
 very pretty half-caiste girls were seen on the streets and about 
 the city. The people were richly dressed and the general ap- 
 pearance of Honolulu was prosperous. The streets were well 
 paved, the buildings modern. The city is certainly a most 
 beautiful one, owing its beauty, perhaps, to the luxuriant 
 vegetation in which it abounds. 
 
 Flowers, pretty evergreen trimmed trees and vines appeared 
 everywhere and the air was heavy with their perfume. 
 
 A number of native ladies and girls were selling garlands 
 of flowers on the street, and people, everywhere, who appeared 
 to be enjoying a holiday, wore them about their necks. 
 
 After we had exhausted the sights of the city and partaken 
 of an excellent dinner at an American restaurant, we boarded 
 an ancient appearing horse car connecting with the electric 
 inclined railway for the "Punch Bowl." 
 
 Half an hour's ride up the zigzag railway brought us to the 
 summit, where a magnificent view of the city was afforded. 
 The famous "Punch Bowl" lies across from the highest point 
 to which the car goes and you can look over into the crater of 
 this extinct volcano. Splendid and varied is the scenery about 
 the city of Honolulu, and as I stood on the peak of this moun- 
 tain looking out over the beautiful evergreen clad city, upon 
 the broad expanse of the Pacific to the horizon, a realization 
 of the wonderful creation of earth came overpoweringly upon 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY o33 
 
 me, and I realized for the first time, I think, the utter insig- 
 nificance, when compared with creation, though his works and 
 accomplishments may all be considered, of that conceited ani- 
 mal — man. 
 
 Returning to the city, we were preparing to go on board 
 the Peru, when an incident came under my observation that 
 may, if related here, prove of lasting benefit to many young 
 ladies if closely studied. My readers will remember that it 
 had been many months since I had spoken to a white woman ; 
 many months since I had looked upon the face of an American 
 lady. If you can picture to your own mind the dilapidated 
 state man would reach when isolated from his country woman, 
 you will be able to understand to a small degree the condition 
 of mind men in the orient are placed. In the United States 
 woman is placed upon a high plane. She is the brightest part 
 of men's lives; she is petted, idolized and, perhaps, spoiled. 
 Good women are the fairest of God's creatures. He placed 
 her on earth to love, and be loved by, man. Lovely American 
 woman, the world has none more fair ! Take her away and 
 this old world would be a sorry place for man. Take away 
 your mother, sister, sweetheart, wife, and the light of your 
 life is faded into lusterless darkness. I had not heard the 
 sound of voice nor looked upon the face of an American woman 
 for months, until, on passing down a lane in Honolulu, two 
 beautiful young American ladies slowly approached from the 
 opposite direction and, hesitating near us, one of them ex- 
 claimed, "Oh, what a beautiful rose ! Do you think we could 
 get it?" 
 
334 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 iSeveral of our little band of sailors were together and we 
 were gaping in amazement at the ladies. To me they appeared 
 the most beautiful sight that had come before my eyes for 
 months. The men were all struck with astonishment. One 
 of them, an honest young Irishman, who would rather cut off 
 his right arm than have displeased one of the ladies, sprang 
 down the little bluff into the ditch where the flower grew, and 
 losing his footing, fell into a puddle of water, wetting and dis- 
 arranging his clothes, but he secured the flower, and running 
 after the ladies, doffed his cap and, blushing red, said: "Ex- 
 cuse me, please, lady, here is the flower you wanted." 
 
 He made but a sorry appearance in his disheveled condition. 
 He was scared, and his approach was not of the most formal 
 character, but his heart was honest and it was plainly visible. 
 
 This young American lady, upon whose face we had all been 
 delighted to gaze, upon the tremors of whose voice we were glad 
 to bend our attention, as she looked at this young volunteer for 
 his country, in the uniform of Uncle Sam's Navy, her country's 
 protector, drew up her shoulders in haughty disdain, elevated 
 her nose about two extra points in the air and fired such a 
 look of killing scorn at poor "Mike" that he almost .fainted, 
 when she said : "S-i-r ! I d-o-n'-t k-n-o-w y-o-u !" 
 
 With this surprising speech, she turned and hurried her 
 companion away from those "dirty sailors." 
 
 If there is any young lady among my readers who does not 
 understand the drift and meaning of this incident, let her at 
 once ask her mamma, and then spend the next year in thinking 
 hard over her reply. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 335 
 
 The Peru sailed at dark and outside the harbor we found the 
 sea quite rough and rising rapidly. By midnight a storm had 
 struck us. The wind blew heavy, the night inky blackness, 
 and the angry sea pounded, tossed and rolled the little steamer 
 in a most distressing manner. In all my sea service I had 
 never before felt real sea sickness. But, after traveling thou- 
 sands of miles on the sea, in all kinds of weather from quiet 
 calm to tremendous storm, without feeling this terrible mon- 
 ster's influence, I was destined to feel it within three davs' 
 sail of Uncle Sam's shores. The Peru being a smaller vessel 
 and laid on a different keel, met the sea in a manner unusual 
 to me ; instead of the heavy plowing through the sea of a steel 
 man-of-war, I felt the light buoyant bounding and rolling of 
 an ocean passenger steamer, which, though comfortable enough 
 when one becomes accustomed to it, turns a man-of-war's-man 
 topsy-turvy. 
 
 iHowever, I kept a stiff upper lip, and early on the morning 
 of December 10, 1901, she steamed slowly through the "Golden 
 Gate" into the harbor of San Francisco. 
 
 Oh, with what inexpressible joy did we look upon the shores 
 of the dear old United States ! How one's heart thumped and 
 bounded with the hot affection and enthusiasm that came 
 with this beautiful sight! Everything looked American, but, 
 after all these strange places and sights, home (America) 
 seemed a strange land ; the people had strange ways ; the build- 
 ings, streets and everything upon which one's eyes fell had a 
 foreign look. I could have cried for the very sorrow of find- 
 
336 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 ing myself a stranger at home, had not the excitement preva- 
 lent occupied my entire mind and attention. 
 
 We telephoned to the commandant of Mare Island Navy 
 Yard and Station the fact of our arrival and he ordered us 
 to proceed at once to the United States receiving ship Inde- 
 pendence, at Mare Island, which is the naval rendezvous. 
 
 That night we slept on the Independence, and it seemed 
 good. Though everything appeared strange, it was exquisite 
 joy to feel that we were at last in Uncle Sam's land. They 
 treated us kindly and considerable curiosity was evinced by 
 the jackies on the vessel. There were "old timers" and 
 "rookies." The young men who had just enlisted for service, 
 and who were very anxious, as is usually the case, to be sent 
 to sea, asked many questions. We had little to say, bu|t ad- 
 vised them to "try it a cruise," which we thought would take 
 most of (the curiosity out of them. We did not feel in the 
 story-telling mood ; instead, we simply wanted to enjoy to the 
 fullest extent every minute of our lives in America. 
 
 All hands were very eager to proceed on to ISTew York, where 
 we expected to be discharged. 'But we were informed that it 
 would be necessary for us to "lay over" a day or two in Mare 
 Island before the official machinery could be made to grind 
 out transportation and orders for us. This was indeed a dis- 
 appointment. Many of them had to come part of ithe distance 
 back west after reaching ISTew York and receiving their dis- 
 charges before reaching their hom^s. Christmas was com- 
 ing on and it was feared that we would nolt reach our homes 
 in time to eat "puddin" on that happy day. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 337 
 
 We were not in the best of health. One of our number had 
 passed most of (the voyage in his bunk and had to be carried 
 ashore and at once sent to Mare Island hospital, where he was 
 still confined when last I heard of him. 
 
 A few of the draft were San Francisco boys. A great many 
 friends came at once to visit Ithem and it made the rest of us 
 feel rather blue. It occurred to me then that in each of my 
 army and navy enlistments and discharges I had been alone, 
 amid strange surroundings, with no one to advise, comfort or 
 cheer me. Poor old] Chum, I wondered what had become of 
 him. The last I knew, he had felt himself compelled, on ac- 
 count of the inhuman treatment of a superior officer (as he 
 wrote me) to desert the navy, his country and his flag. 
 
 Never in all my experience have I met a more loyal or pa- 
 triotic young man than he. He loved and was proud of 
 America. He was honorable in every act in which I knew him. 
 Yet he deserted. I will never be able to believe that it was 
 possible for him to remain in the service and live ; for I know 
 him well, and he is not at heart a deserter. I was anxious 
 to ge|t to iN"ew York so that I might learn of his whereabouts. 
 
 Well, the order finally came to send us at once by train to 
 !N~ew York. After the delay of two days, at their ease, 'they 
 suddenly became hurried. They hustled us, trappings and 
 all, on board the train, and almost before we were aware of it, 
 we were speeding across the Rockies toward America's me- 
 tropolis. 
 
338 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 The Rocky Mountains loomed up grand and majestic; they 
 were awe inspiring. They are appropriately named. Simply 
 great piles of jagged rock standing bare and weather-beaten, 
 with here and there a stunted tree or bush as the only sign of 
 soil or vegetation in the nooks and crevices. 
 
 We were furnished with dining car and sleeper tickets. I 
 was placed in charge of the entire parjty and the transportation, 
 etc., put in my care. I found this a difficult position to fill. 
 The men felt already out from under the arm of naval author- 
 ity, and were inclined (to resent any interference on my part 
 to keep them quiet and orderly. Accustomed for years to the 
 rough life on board a man-of-war, they often forgot themselves 
 and their language. A sailor swears from, apparently, natural 
 instinct. Their words have little real meaning, but sound 
 as offensive to ladies as a "land lubber's cussin'." However, 
 they all appreciated my position and endeavored to conduct 
 .themselves in a proper manner. It was often amusing to 
 watch a fellow trying to "be good." He would sit quietly and 
 gaze about the car for, perhaps, five minutes, when suddenly 
 discovering some opportunity to trick a shipmate, he would 
 forget all about "being good," and break loose in true sailor 
 fashion, only to remember himself a moment later and feel 
 greatly embarrassed. 
 
 The dining service was very fair over the Southern Pacific 
 and Union Pacific routes until we reached Omaha; then, foi 
 some unknown reason, unless they thought because we were 
 sailors it was not necessary to serve us as well as other people, 
 service ceased to be satisfactory. The food given us was not 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 339 
 
 always equal to that of other passengers; the waiters were not 
 over polite ; we were required to wait until the enltire train of 
 passengers had dined before we were served and one or two 
 days were kept waiting for breakfast until six o'clock in the 
 evening. We never breakfasted as late as ithis on naval ves- 
 sels, so the men were very hard to pacify. Of course, being 
 in charge, I had the unpleasant duty of reporting conductors, 
 waiters, etc., until I was tired; I had '.the still more unpleas- 
 ant duty of reproaching and ordering hungry men to cease 
 grumbling about "no dinner." In fact, my position was ex- 
 ceedingly unpleasant. Under these circumstances it is not to 
 be wondered at that the men procured a few bottles of whisky 
 and before I had become aware of it had made themselves half 
 drunk. Then my troubles commenced; they wanted tc "cuss" 
 the trainmen, !they wanted to sing, they wanted to fight any- 
 body who desired a fight, in fact, they wanted everything to 
 be thought of, until I became almost frantic, and had to have 
 the lights turned oult in order to put them to sleep. 
 
 But they were a good lot of men, and not one of them but 
 what would have done anything in his power to assist me, ex- 
 cept "be good" himself. 
 
 It was my misfortune to be compelled ito pass through Ot- 
 tumwa, Iowa, only twenty miles distant from my home, with- 
 out being able to stop off an hour. We passed through at night 
 but I remember looking hard in the direction of home and 
 wishing that I could become a bird for a few hours, so thait I 
 might at least take a look at home. But men are not turned 
 into birds in the twentieth century, and I 'traveled to ISTew York 
 
340 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 and back again before looking upon the home of my childhood. 
 
 Our route lay through Chicago, where we arrived in the 
 morning and "all hands" being tired, I permitted them to 
 stop off eight hours and turned them loose in the ci',ty. Several 
 of us visited the Art Institute and were very kindly admitted 
 free of charge by the manager, who said he felt compelled 
 to honor and respect Uncle Sam's uniform. Several hours 
 were spent here and greatly enjoyed by all. 
 
 Everywhere bustle and confusion reigned. Stores were pre- 
 paring for Christmas trade, windows were decked in holiday 
 display. Thousands of people thronged the streets and busi- 
 ness houses. After enjoying an excellent lunch at a restau- 
 rant near State street, a small party of us attended the mati- 
 nee, which, with the dinner that followed it, passed pleasant- 
 ly the time allowed in this busy city. 
 
 It lacked an hour to train time and I could find but three 
 sailors ! Time seemed to be flying. To be delayed another 
 day meant difficulty on arrival in New York. I became un- 
 easy and racked my brain for some means of bringing them 
 together. When ashore jack is often irresponsible and I feared 
 they were drunk, arrested, perhaps, or in a thousand other 
 kinds of trouble. What should I do ? To go on to New York 
 and leave them meant a court martial on arrival. As I sat 
 pondering over this tangled problem, a policeman walked past 
 me into the adjoining room, and brought the query to my 
 mind, "Why not ask the chief of police to help find them ?" 
 
 Acting on the impulse, I called him up by telephone and in- 
 formed him that I was in charge of a drafjt of sailors, who 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 341 
 
 were scattered about in Chicago, no one knew where, and that 
 it was absolutely necessary to have them all at the depot with- 
 in an hour. 
 
 He politely asked me if they were all in uniform and if 
 'they wore cap ribbons with the name "U. S. S. Brooklyn" on 
 them in gilt letters. I replied in the affirmative, and he said 
 he had noticed a few about State street that afternoon. He 
 requested me to call him up ten minutes before train time, 
 and report whether or not they had all returned, saying fur- 
 ther that he would instruct "roundsmen" to send them in, 
 wherever found. 
 
 In less than thirty minujtes 'they began to arrive. Each had 
 a different story to tell about two, three or four policemen 
 ordering them to a get to the depot as quick as their legs could 
 take them." Some came alone; others who had imbibed too 
 freely were escorted by big policemen, and some who were be- 
 yond the use of mere Isgis, were honored by free rides in the 
 patrol wagon. 
 
 At ten minutes before train time I 'phoned the chief that 
 my men had all arrived and asked him how he had managed 
 to work so quick. His reply was characteristic of Chicago 
 people, short and to the point: "Roundsmen Irish, got big 
 feet, can walk, this is Chicago. Ring off." 
 
 From Chicago we passed through Washington, D. C, and 
 arrived in New York, all hands safe and sober, on December 
 nineteenth. Our papers were delayed in their arrival from 
 San Francisco, so that we were not finally discharged until 
 the twenty-first. 
 
342 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 With an honorable discharge in my pocket, I trudged slowly 
 down great Broadway and gazed with renewed interest into 
 the faces of its pedestrians. Since I had trodden this crowded 
 thoroughfare, three years before, I had completed ithe circuit 
 of old "mother Earth," had experienced many things, and 
 had visited many lands. I had learned the true value of 
 America, had learned to appreciate this, its greatest thorough- 
 fare. The people appeared unchanged. They hurried, moped 
 and idled in the same manner as those I had looked upon three 
 years before. Their faces all showed the cares of life as be- 
 fore. I looked closely into the faces of several, oh, a great 
 many, and they didn't appear to have missed me a bit! ; 
 
 MY NEXT CRUISE. 
 
 I've knocked around the world a bit, 
 
 .Been buncoed lots 'er places ; 
 Sometimes I've had not much ter eat, 
 Agin made money like all blazes. 
 
 iBuit though I've traveled fur and wide, 
 Some jobs have come I kaint fergit; 
 
 There's one wherein no snap I see, — 
 The Navy's the poorest I've struck yit. 
 
 They told me when I signed my name, 
 
 That all I'd have ter do 
 Was walk up each month and draw my coin, 
 
 And daily eat my bread and stew. 
 
 But now, young feller, it seems to me 
 That that durn'd cuss he tole a lie, 
 
 And if agin I do him see 
 
 He'll need some fixen fer his eye. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 343 
 
 The Captain, he seems so stuck up, 
 
 He can't a common feller speak to, 
 And when yer try to talk ter him 
 
 Yer think he's goin' ter eat you. 
 
 The First Luff, he seems a queer old cuss, 
 
 Got a lightnin' sort o' eye; 
 But, Great Gee Hosephat, you better scoot, 
 
 When he's been monkeyin' with old rye. 
 
 Now the men as rides before the mast, 
 
 I don't think I'll try describe ; 
 There's so many different colors, kinds, 
 
 From this old world, so fur and wide. 
 
 Some has corners on their haids, 
 
 Some air flat from toe ter heel; 
 But the biggest end of them I find 
 
 Air kinder shy uv upper wheels. 
 
 Last of all I find myself 
 
 Compelled ter tell it straight, 
 Durned if I know what else ter call 
 
 This ISTavy but my rotten fate. 
 
 ISTow, I've been all round the world, 
 
 Seen all kinds uv heathen races ; 
 Some hangs pigs-tales on their haids, 
 
 Some puts war paint on their faces. 
 
 Some fellers where my ships have been 
 
 Has ten er twenty wives, 
 And a couple-a-hunderd children 
 
 To burden of their lives. 
 
 ISTow, Japan, that's er funny place, 
 
 If you haint heard it now yer'd orter; 
 A father there will sell, b'gosh 
 
 Per dollars his own dorter! 
 
344 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 
 
 The Filipino gals — gee whiz, ther proud ! 
 
 Ther powerful fond er jewelry, 
 A termater can upon (ther leg, 
 
 An' all sich gol dorn f oolry ! 
 
 An' as fer clothes, they don't keer 
 
 As much as what they orter; 
 Why, a maiden fair will stroll along 
 
 With clothes no more'n a quarter ! 
 
 There's monkeys, parrots, birds and snaiks, 
 Liven in valley, plain and mountain; 
 
 An' finest kind er pretty flowers, 
 An' waterfalls an' fountains. 
 
 Why, sometimes it 'pears ter me, 
 While steamin' 'mong ther islands, 
 
 That Heaven must be much alike 
 Our valleys here and highlands. 
 
 So, after all, I kalkerlate, 
 
 That maybe this air Navy 
 Has made me all 'round a better man, 
 
 My conscience cool and shady. 
 
 An' when at last my cruise was out, 
 
 An' 'round my neck dear mother's arms, 
 
 I reckon how I was just glad 
 
 Ter cruise with Pop upon ther farm. 
 
jotf 
 
 
 
jUN 28 1302