Qass_ Book_____XjS_B& EDMUND SYLVESTER The Founder of Ol^^mpia EARLY HISTORY OF Thurston County, Washington TOGETHER WITH BIOGRAPHIES AND REMINISCENCES OF THOSE IDENTIFIED WITH PIONEER DAYS ^j'/oWc^^.-j/o-'^, ^^^.v,^,,,,, COMPILED AND EDITED BY MRS. GEORGE E. BLANKENSHIP OLYMPIA, WASHINGTON 1914 Fill ^^/^/T.C '^ 0^ ,..Qatimarh Upon presenting this modest volume to the public the author desires to present a few facts regarding the aims and purposes of its publication. As I am not myself a pioneer or, in the proper conception of the term, an early settler, it may be necessary to explain why I should intrude in a field more properly the work of others. As one who crossed the plains three times in an ox wagon, and whose parents were inured to the hardships of frontier life, I myself took a deep interest in this subject. Upon coming to Puget Sound I found the ranks of the pioneers decreasing rapidly. With the modesty characteristic of this race of hardy empire builders, they had not appreciated the value of their work and its import to their posterity. They did not appreciate the fact that those who were to reap where they had sown would be eager to learn of the vicissitudes and hardships endured by their antecedents in this new em- pire for which they had laid the foundation — so vast that Atlas must needs square his shoulders to bear the burdens of an- other world — and without leaving proper records of their heroie and self-denying lives, they have one by one gone to a well-deserved rest, leaving but few today to detail the re- miniscences here related. The compiler, then, encouraged in the work, by many who desire to see a task accomplished, which they themselves had no inclination to undertake, offers this volume, with a sincere hope that it may to some extent endure as a record of the lives of many who made history in Thurston County in the early days. This publication makes no claim to literary merit, but aims to relate the simple annals of the pioneers' lives and vicissitudes in the language of the actors of that time. The work has been at once interesting and educating. Thrown in contact with these survivors of the late '40 's and early '50's one is astonished at the physical vig^or and meji tal brilliancy encountered. In one instance, in quest of facts regarding the early ex- periences of one old family, I was compelled to interview the maternal ancester, who complied cheerfully but said that in- asmuch as it was early Spring and she had her gardening to do she must ask her interviewer to call later in the evening when the day's tasks were done. Another old lady, who furnished a fund of information, was found vigorously sewing upon her own dresses and much interested in her wardrobe, which, however, contained no nar- row and slit skirts. These instances are presented not as exceptional in char- acter, but as typical of the people who left homes in the East to endure a perilous six months' trip over the trackless plains for a destination of which they knew nothing except that it promised a hard and perilous existence, with problematical results. They came, leaving their trail marked with mute evi- dences of severed family ties ; they saw, and before their vision unrolled a panorama of vast possibilities ; they conquered, first the savage Indian and then the none less wild forests and laid wide and deep the foundation for a State that must in time take rank with the first in this great Union. Then it was, that the wild nature of the country having been subdued, transcontinental railroads built and the country became a fit habitation for man, the work of these hard}- pioneers w^as done, their proud, erect forms were bent with age and hardship endured. The flashing eyes were dimmed, the heads ripened for the grave, and they must reap slight re- ward for their self-denial and hardships. Even the United States Government was tardy in acknowledging their worth and bestowing a well-deserved pension upon these empire builders to aid them in their declining years. Indeed, the great majority had sought their reward in another world, when the Federal Government passed a law granting Indian war veterans pensions. Few there were then to receive it and they not long to be beneficiaries. Let posterity, then, do its duty in granting the early settle^- his just due in respect and homage. WAIL OF AN OLD SETTLER. Some say this country's improving And boast of its commerce and trade, But measured by social enjoyment, ■ I find it has really decayed. In the pioneer days on the Sound When the people had little to wear, And subsisted on clams the year 'round, "We'd hearty good fellowship here. The thoughtful, industrious old settler Was so fond of obliging a friend, That if anyone wanted his tools He'd always quit working to lend. At our gatherings for pastoral pleasure — Dance, picnic or social knockdown, One man was as good as another, No kind of distinction was shown. And even the climate is changing, For only some ten years ago, Strawberries got ripe in December Whilst now it brings four feet of snow. — Francis Henry. QtBtoriral jg(kptrl| It is not necessary to the purposes of this brief historiciil sketch to detail the events connected with the early voyages of discovery to the Northwest, although they constituted the basis upon which Spain, Great Britain and the United States asserted claims to the Northwest Coast. Russia claimed north of the 51st degree, with all adjacent islands ; Spain claimed to the 55th degree by right of discovery ; Great Britain asserted no exclusive right to particular portions of the coast, but maintained that the voyages of Drake, Cook, Meares and Vancouver to the coast ; the overland voyages of Mackenzie and Thomson, followed by the formation of estab- lishments within the territory "conferred a right of joint oc- cupancy with other states, leaving the right of exclusive do minion in abeyance." At the outset of the controversy the United States' claim was two-fold : First, in its own right, based upon the dis- covery of the Columbia river by Captain Gray; the explora- tion of that river by Lewis and Clark, followed by settlements by its citizens upon its banks. Upon the principal that the discovery of a river followed by acts of occupancy, secured a right to the territory such river drained, the United States asserted claim to the territory west of the Rocky IMountains lying between 42 and 51 degrees north, subject, however, to the rights of Spain of prior discoveries of islands and lands upon the coast. Second, as successor to France. By the Louisiana purchase of 1803, the United States ac- (juired the right of continuity of the territory west of the ^Mississippi river to the Pacific Ocean, of the breadth of that province, its north line being the boundary between the Hud- son's Bay territory and the French provinces in Canada. Ne- gotiations between the United States and Great Britain were commenced early in the century ; the war of 1812 intervened ; THURSTON COUNTY 7 Astoria, captured during that war, had been restored. In 181 S. the condition was slightly changed by the convention which permitted a joint occupancy of the territory by citizens and subjects of both nations, really a non-occupancy by the nations themselves, for they but agreed that they would not exclude the citizens of the other, nor gain any right or claim by virtue of the occupancy by their own citizens. On the 22nd of Feb- luary, 1819, the United States, by the Florida treaty, acquired from Spain all that nation's rights to land upon the Pacific Coast north of 42nd degree north latitude. In 1824 and 1825 ihe United States and Great Britain haa respectively con- cluded treaties with Russia by which 54 degrees 40 minutes north latitude was established as the south boundary of Rus- sian possessions on the Northwest Coast. In 1827 the joint occupancy treaty was renewed, with the modification that either nation could abrogate it by giving twelve months' notice. The Oregon question continued to be agitated until June 15. 1846, the United States Senate advised President Polk to accept the treaty of limits then offered. By that treaty 49 degrees north was fixed as the northern bound- ary. But the treaty of 1846 proved but a temporization, not h settlement. It yielded to Great Britain all of Vancouver Island, but was vague as to water boundaries. The indistinct recog- nition of the possessory rights of the Hudson Bay and Puget Sound Agricultural Companies, almost wholly in Washington, left much for controversy. In 1859, war was imminent, groAV- ing out of dispte as to sovereignty as to San Juan Island. This difficulty was temporized by a military joint occupancy A special treaty enabled the United States to secure by pur- chase the extinguishment of the possessory rights of the Hud- son Bay Company' and Puget Sound Agricultural Company. Not until 1872, by the award of the German Emperor, was the water boundary adjusted and the Oregon controversy finally settled. What was known as the provisional government of Oregon was organized in July, 1845, and all that country north of the Columbia River formed a single County known as Van- couver District. Sir James Douglas, M. T. Simmons and John Forrest were the first County Commissioners. Douglas was connected with the Hudson Bay Company and Simmons came 8 HISTORICAL SKETCH into the country in the year 1844, with a company from Missouri. Lewis County was organized in 1846, and embraced all the territory lying north of the Columbia river and west of the Cowlitz River. Dr. W. T. Tolmie, of Nisqually, was elected the first representative. In April, 1845, at Washougal, Mrs. M. T. Simmons gave birth to the first white child born north and west of the Co- lumbia River. In March, 1846, Mrs. James McAllister gave birth to a son, the first born in the Puget Sound region. In the Summer of 1846, Mrs. Sidney S. Ford gave birth to a daughter, the first American girl born north and west of the Columbia River. The child after became Mrs. John Shelton The first marriage recorded in the Colony was at "New ]\Iarket, Puget Sound, at the house of ]\Ir. Davis, on the 6t}j day of July, by Judge Simmons, Mr. Daniel F. Kinsey to Miss Ruth Brock of the former place." In August of 1847, Jesse Ferguson, Col. Simmons, Frank Shaw, E. Sylvester, A. B. Rabbeson, Gabriel Jones. A. D. Carne- fix and John Kindred formed a company for the purpose of building a sawmill at New Market, named the Puget Sound Milling Company. The site was the northwest part of the Lower Falls. The mill was completed during the winter of that year. On August 24, 1847, a trail Avas made between Smithfield (Olympia) and New Market (Tumwater). In the Fall of 1847. there arrived in this section Thomas M. Chambers and his sons, David, Andrew, Thomas J. and McLain, also a Mr. Brail and Geo. Shaser. The last election held in Lewis County under the Pro- visional Government was in 1848, when Levi Lathrop Smith was elected Repreesntative to the Oregon Provisional Legisla- ture and A. B. Rabbeson was elected Sheriff. Mr. Smith did not live to enter upon the duties of his office. While in a canoe on his way to New Market in August he was seized with an epileptic fit and drowned. This was the first recorded death of an American in this section. Mr. Smith was a partner of Edmund Sylvester in joint claims owned by them. Under the partnership clause of the land laM^s of Oregon's Provisional Government the occupancy THURSTON COUNTY 9 of claims by each party for the benefit of the firm was per- missable. Smith resided on the Smithfield claim and Sylvester occupied a prairie farm near the Sound. Thus, upon the death i>f Smith, Sylvester, as the survivor of the firm, became owner of the present site of the City of Olympia. He moved thereon and built the first hotel. It was 16x2-1, built of logs and con- tained two rooms. Rev. Pascal Ricard and a small party of Oblat mission- aries in June, 1818, established the St. Joseph Mission, on the site of the present city park, on the east of Budd's Inlet. The Mission continued for several years. Hence the name by which the point has since been known, and which name is now given to Olympiads splendid playground — Priest Point Park. Another settlement was made about this time almost directly across the inlet from Priest Point by Samuel Han- cock. This claim later became the property of Conrad Schneider. The Territorial Government of Oregon was established on August 14, 1848, and included all the Pacific possessions of the United States north to the 32nd parallel, this line being fixed by treaty between the United States and Great Britain. The development of this section of the Oregon territory was greatly retarded soon after its organization by the gold discoveries made in California, which caused a stampede from the Northwest, and considerably reduced the male popula- tion, who preferred to try their fortunes in the gold fields rather than continue the pursuit of fortune along slower but more certain lines. Farms were abandoned ; in many cases crops were not planted, or, if planted, were left neglected and unharvested. After the arrival of Governor Lane to assume the duties of his office as first Governor of Oregon Territory, Judicial districts were proclaimed and Judges assigned in two, but the third Judicial district which constituted Lewis County, was left without an official clothed with authority to afford protection in all the territory north of the Columbia River. The first American vessel owned by Washington Terri- tory residents hailed from Olympia, on Puget Sound, and was called the Orbit. She arrived at Olj'mpia on Ncav Years day. 10 HISTORICAL SKETCH 1850, and loaded with piles for San Francisco. Her owners were Messrs. Sylvester, Jackson, Moore, Shaw and Ebey. The first Legislatnre under Oregon Territorial Government convened at Oregon City, July, 184:9. Lewis County was then included in a Representative and Council district with Clat- sop County (now Oregon), and was represented by Samuel T. McKean, of Clatsop, as Councilman, and M. T. Simmons, as Representative. The session continued one hundred days. Thomas W. Glascow settled on a claim at what is known as Ebey's Landing, Whidby Island, in 1848, and after some preliminary work returned to New Market (Tumwater) and induced A. D. Carnefix and A. B. Rabbeson to return to his new home with him. At the head of Hood's Canal, which thev desired to explore, while on their way, they found Indians, many of whom had never beheld a white man. Though Carne- fix returned home at the head of the Sound, Rabbeson and Glascow continued their voyage and in July reached the new liome of the latter. About this time there was held in this vicinity a council of Puget Sound Indians, called together by the Chief of the Snoqualmies, Patkanim. The object of this meeting was to induce all the Sound Indians to combine and annihilate the white settlers. Patkanim w^as the leader in the effort to bring about hostilities. He urged that it was only a matter of a short time when the whites would outnumber the In- dians, and the latter would then be transported to a land where the sun never shone, and would there be left to die. One of the great arguments used by this crafty statesman and warrior, however, was that by conquering the whites the indians would acquire a large amount of property. This Avar-like spirit was strongly opposed by the Indians from the Upper Sound, who felt quite friendly to the whites. This pacific attitude of the Indians about the head of the Sound was due to the fact that the stronger tribes on the lower Sound had made war on the weaker ones and made slaves of those of the Indians that they took captives. The presence of the white in and about Smithfield and New Market had proved a protection to their Indian neighbors. More thaji this the whites had thus far proven themselves scrupu- lously honest in their dealings with the Indians and thus had THURSTON COUNTY 11 the "King- George" or "Boston Men" won their confidence. This opposition to hostilities came near causing a fight on the council grounds. Rabbeson and Glascow, seeing that it would be unsafe to remain in the neighborhood left, the latter abandoning his claim. In the Spring of 1849, a party of Snoqualmie Indians made an attack on the Hudson Bay Company's fort at Nis- qually, in which Leander C. Wallace w^as killed and two men, Lewis and Walker, were womided. From accounts derived from various sources the following appear to be the facts : A force of Snociualmies .visited the fort, ostensibly to settle a dispute with the Nisqually tribe. There appears to have been a force varying according to sev- eral accounts, from 100 to 150. Patkanim was wnthin the fort conferring with Dr. Tolmie, the Agent, while the gates were closed against the other Indians. Wallace, Lewis and Walker, visitors at the fort, together with one. Chas. Wren, outside the fort, noticed hostile demonstrations on the part of tlu Indians, and apprehending danger, retreated towards the gates. Wren reached it and tried to enter, but was pre- vented from within. The discharge of a gun at this timi- precipitated an attack. It was fired into the air by a guard on the inside, preparatory to reloading, and was used as a pretext for the attack. A volley was then fired from the fort and the Indians retreated. Wallace was the first white man killed by Indians on Puget Sound. The Indians were induced for a consideration of eighty blankets, to deliver up the murderers for trial. This method of dealing was strongly resented by Governor Lane, as it could be construed as putting a premium rather than a punishment on such outrages. However, before he could prevent it the deal, which had been authorized by an Indian Agent for this district, had been consummated and six Snoqualmie Indians given up by the crafty Patl^anim. At a special term of court held in Ft. Steilacoom the six prisoners were indicted, tried, and two convicted, who were leaders in the attack. The remaining four were acquitted. A vast conclave of Indians were present at the execution, which occurred the day following conviction. 12 HISTORICAL SKETCH This -was the first United States court held North of the Columbia Eiver. It Avas convened on the 1st day of October, the trial continued through the second day and upon the third day the two Indians were suspended, as mute object lessons to the Indians that the law must be respected. Some of the jurors who participated in this trial traveled two hundred miles from their homes to reach the court. The summary justice then dealt out could be well used as object lessons for more modern courts. Chief Justice Bryant presided at this trial. The prosecu- tion was conducted by Judge Alonzo A. Skinner and the Court assigned David Stone, then Prosecuting Attorney for the Third Judicial District to defend the Indians. Edmund Sylvester, who by the death of his partner, had become sole owner of the claim they had located at the head of Budd's Inlet, in 1850, laid off the claim as a town site and named it Olympia. The name suggests the idea that even in this remote region with rude environments, there were those conversant with the classics. The name was bestowed by Charles H. Smith, who together with Mr. Simmons, had that year established a store in the new settlement, at the corner of Main and Second Streets. The name was doubtless sug- gested by the beautiful views spread out before them at the head of the Sound, where to the North the Olympic Range was visible and to the East old Rainier reared his majestic head. At this period, of course, the methods of living by the inhabitants were most primitive. Little in the way of house- hold necessities had reached the new settlement and luxurier^ were not missed by these hardy pioneers. Only the necessaries of life and those fancy articles which appealed to the Indians were dealt in at the time. However, in 1852, George A. Barnes opened a general merchandise stor? at the West end of First Street, from which time business as- sumed more pretentious proportions. Later business houses were opened by A. J. Moses, J. G. Parker, Sam Coulter, L. Bettman, Goldman & Rosenblatt, and Louisson & Company. As Olympia was the only town on the Sound a customs house was established here in 1851. Upon the reciept of news of the discovery of gold on Queen Charlotte's Island, this year, a schooner was chartered THURSTON COUNTY 13 by Samuel Williams, J. Colvig, William Billings, S. D, ITowe. Charles Weed, S. S. Ford and three Sargent Brothers to go to the new fields. The schooner was wrecked on the East side of the island, plundered by the Indians and the gold- seekers taken prisoners. They were rescued by a revenue cutter and troops from Steilacoom and returned home after two months' absence. The year 1852 found the settlers in fair condition with brighter prospects, for coal had been discovered and saw- mills had been established on the Sound, and these industries had caused a few shipments to be made to San Francisco, the beginning of a trade that was destined at a later date to grow to such dimensions. The Sound country, which then constituted the Northern part of the Territory of Oregon, was isolated. Many of the towns and settlements were five hundred miles from the seat of government, and under such conditions the settlers here received little attention or consideration from the Ter- ritorial Legislature, though at this period it was considered that Lewis County, that section north of Cowlitz County, con- tained a little over three hundred inhabitants, of Avhich 180 were citizens. Pacific County was created in 1851 and in 1852 a new County was created to include the territory west of the Cas- cade Mountains and north of the Cowlitz divide. The ne"\^' ('Ounty was named Thurston, after Samuel R. Thurston, a highly cultured gentleman who had been elected to Congress by the factions opposed to the Hudson Bay Company. Thurs- ton died at sea April 9, 1851, while returning from the Na- tional Capitol His remains were buried at Acapulco, though Ihey were afterward brought to Salem, Oregon, and buried, marked with a stone bearing this inscription: "Here rests Oregon's delegate, a man of genius and learning, a lawyer and statesman, his Christian virtues equalled by his wide philan- throphy. His public acts are his best euloguim." In accordance with the act creating the new County of Thurston an election was held in June, 1852, at which the fol- lowing officers were elected : A. J. Simmons, Sheriff ; A. M. Poe, County Clerk; D. R. Bigelow, Treasurer; R. S. Bailey, 14 HISTORICAL SKETCH Assessor ; Edmund Sylvester, Coroner ; A. A. Denny, S. S. Ford and David Shelton, County Commissioners. The records of tlie first session of the County Commis- sioners, shows the following business transacted : The tax levy was fixed at -t mills for County purposes, 11/2 mills for schools, IV2 millfi Territorial, and $1 poll tax. T. F. MeElroy and Geo. Barnes were appointed Justices; of the Peace. Road districts were established and Wm. Paclru^ood was authorized to establish a ferry on the Nisqually River. Precincts were established as follows: Skagit precinct. Whidby Island and all islands north. Port Townsend pre- cinct, territory north of Hood's Canal on the west side of the Sound. Duwamish precinct, east side of Sound north of Puyallup River and all south of Hood's Canal to the parallel of the north parallel of the Puyallup river on west side of Sound. Steilacoom precinct, territory north of Nisqually River to the Puyallup on the east side of the Sound and thence due west to mouth of Nisqually River to the parallel of the mouth of the Puyallup. Olympia precinct, territory south of Steilacoom precinct. For school purposes : Olympia precinct contained dis tricts 1 and 2; Duwamish was designed as one district, Skagit precinct, one district; Port Townsend precinct as one district. The fir.st term of the district Court was convened at Olym- pia this year and Elwood Evans, D. R. Bigelow, Quincy A. Ijrooks and S. H. Moses were admitted to practice. Thornton F. McElroy and J. W. Wiley printed the first. newspaper published in Thurston County. It was called the Columbian and the first issue appeared on September 11, 1852. The regular district school opened this year and was taught by David L. Phillips. The pioneer settlers now began to feel the absolute ne- cessity for a division of the territory and desired to be set aside from Oregon. Agitation along these lines resulted in a call for a convention to meet at Monticello November 25, 1852. Monticello was then a considerable settlement on the Cow- litz River. Thurston County sent as delegates to this convention ^l. THURSTON COTJNTY 15 T. Simmons, S. D. Ruddle, S. P. Moses, Adam Wylie. Q. A. l>rooks and C, H. Hale. The result of this convention was that Congress was mem- orialized to create the Territory of Columbia out of that por- tion of Oregon lying north and west of the Columbia River. There was no opposition on the part of the people of Oregon to this separation, and the result was that the new territory was created by an Act signed by the President on ]\Iarch 3. 1853. Congress, however, overruled the people in the matter of a name for the new territory, and inasmuch as there was already a District of Columbia, it was decided to honor the Father of His Country — hence the Territory of Washington. A school house was erected in the Fall of 1852 on the now northwest corner of Sixth and Fi-anklin Streets, Olympia, The structure was a frail one and succumbed under a heavy fall of snow during the winter. It was rebuilt later. The tide of immigration now set in quite strong, and de- mand for lumber increasing, a mill was built at New Market by Ira Ward, N. Barnes and S. Hays, with a daily output of 3,000 feet per day. In January, 1853, before the new Territorial Government became effective, the Oregon Territorial Legislature created the Counties of Pierce. King, Island and Jefferson, all out of Thurston County, leaving the latter to include only the pres- ent Counties of Thurston, Chehalis and iMason. President Pierce, soon after his inauguration, appointed Isaac I. Stevens as Governor of the new Territory ; Chas. H. Mason, Secretary; J. S. Clendennin, Attorney; J. Patton An- derson, Marshal; Edward Lander, Chief Justice; Victor IMon- roe and 0. B. McFadden, Associate Justices. ]\Iarshal Anderson's first oft'icial act was to cause a cen ^^us to be taken, and a population of 3,965 was reported, oi which 1682 were voters. Transportation and mail facilities in 1853 were very un- satisfactory for the residents of the Sound region. At this time connection was made with Portland by means of a stage which left Olympia every Tuesday, connecting with boats on the Cohmibia. Later, however, B. F. Yantis and A. B. Ral)- beson formed a partnership for the purpose of running a 16 HISTORICAL, SKETCH stage line, and advertised to put their passengers through ir. twelve hours. In 1853 the resources of the County began to be devel- oped. A little coal was mined, a bed of natural oysters was discovered on Budd's Inlet, and hewed timber was quoted at 16 to 18 cents per cubic foot, shingles $-4.50 to $5.00 per thous- and and cordwood $4.00 per cord. The necessity for an emigrant route over the Cascades led to a public meeting being held in Thurston County and a committee appointed to view out a route, and a road through the Natchez pass was the result, which was a means of greatly stimulating emigration. In the Summer of 1853, a census taken for Thurston County showed a population of 996. The first grand and petit jurors were drawn at this time. Governor Stevens reached Olympia on November 25, 1853, five months and nineteen days from St. Paul. Secretary Charles H. Mason had already arrived. Among those ready to welcome the new Governor to tho Sound were Colonel William Cock, Shirley Ensign, D. E. Bige- low, Geo. A. Barnes. H. A. Goldsborough, Jno. M. Swan, C. H. Hale. Judge B. P. Yantis, Judge Gilmore Hays, Jno. G. Parker, Quincy A. Brooks, Dr. G. K. Willard, CoI.":\I. T. Sim- mons, Capt. Clanrick Crosby, Ira Ward, James Biles. Joseph Cushman, S. W. Percival, Edwin ^Marsh. R. M. Walker, Levi and James Offut, J. C. Head, W. Dobbins. Isaac Hawk. Rev. Geo. F. Whitworth, Jared S. Hurd, H. R. Woodward, B. F. Brown, and M. Hurd. The arrival of the new Governor was the most momentou.s event that had occurred in the history of Olympia. and on his appearance in the garb of a hardy frontiersman he was given a hearty welcome and reception at the Washington Hotel (now standing) at the corner of ]Main and Second Streets, and when, a little later Governor Stevens delivered a lecture, giving the results of his explorations for a Northern trans- continental route, the enthusiasm of the pioneers was boundless. Immediately upon arrival of the Governor, he issued :i proclamation establishing election districts, and appointing January 30, 1854, as the time for holding an election for dele- THTJRSTON COUNTY 17 gate to Congress, and members of the Legislature, which was to meet in Olympia February 28th. The Governor appointed M. T. Simmons Indian Agent for the Puget Sound Indians and sent him to visit the various tribes, and bear a message of friendship from the White Father. The first political campaign in Thurston County was an exciting one, in which three parties participated, the Demo- cratic, Whig and Union. The Legislative nominees on the re- spective tickets were as follows : Democratic — For Councilman, D. R. Bigelow and S. D. Ruddell; for Representatives, L. D. Durgin, George Gallaher, David Shelton and A. J. Chambers. Union — For Councilman, D. R. Bigelow and B. F. Yan- tis; for Representatives, A. W. Moore, F. W. Glascow, S. S. Fc^-d, and James H. Roundtree. Whig — For Councilman, B. F. Yantis and E. J. Allen; for Representatives, Ira Ward, C. H. Hale, J. L. Brown, Galla- tin Hartsock. After a short but hard-fought campaign the following were elected : Councilmen, B. F. Yantis and D. R. Bigelow ; Representatives, L. D. Durgin, David Shelton, Ira Ward, and C. H. Hale. Judge Columbus Lancaster was elected first Delegate to Congress. Upon convening of the Legislature in a small two-story building on Main Street, between Second and Third, the Gov- ernor delivered an able message, in which he predicted a bril- liant future for the new territory, much of which has already been realized; urged County and school organization and the organization of a militia. He dwelt on the importance of extinguishing the Indian titles and the claims of the Hudson Bay and Puget Sound Agricultural Companies and settling the boundary line of the British side, and advised the Leg- islature to memorialize Congress for the appointment of a Surveyor-General to facilitate the survey of the lands, and advocated many other salutary measures which were promptly adopted by the Legislature except the recommendation re- garding a militia. This proved a bad oversight as later de- iS HISTORICAL SKETCH velopments showed, when two years later the Indians became hostile. Governor Stevens purchased Block 84, Olympia, for his fu- ture home, and a tract of ten acres in what is now known as Maple Park. He also contracted for the purchase of the north half of the Walker donation claim, between Olympia and Tnmwater. Governor Stevens, amid his other duties, worked with zeal on the reports of his exploration for the Northern trans- continental route and was assisted by Capt. MeClellan (after- guards Gen. Geo. B. MeClellan) and others. Governor Stevens'" offices were in two one-story buildings on the West side of Main Street, between Second and Third Streets. The Governor reported to Secretary of War Jefferson 0. Davis on his exploration and later received peremptory orders to bring his operations along these lines to a close, which he did, but not without urging, their continuance at a later day. The opposition with which Governor Stevens met in this regard was doubtless due to the eagerness of the future President of the Southern Confederacy for a Southern trans- continental route. The acts of the first Legislature affecting Thurston County was that of creating Chehalis County out of the southwest part of the former and Sawamish out of the northwest sec- tion, thus materially reducing the area of Thurston. The name of the latter County was afterward chajiged to Mason, after the first Secretary of the Territory. Also a road was ordered located between Olympia and Shoalwater Bay; from Cathlamet to S. S. Ford's in Thurston County; Olympia to the mouth of the Columbia River, and Olympia to Monticello. The Legislature also appointed County officers for the various Counties, and the following were assigned for Thurs- ton County: County Commissioners, S. S. Ford, David J. Chambers and James McAllister; Auditor, U. E. Hicks; Sher- iff, Frank Kennedy; Assessor, Whi'tfield Kertley; Probate Judge, Stephen D. Ruddle ; County Treasurer, D. R. Bigelow ; School Superintendent, Elwood Evans ; William Plumb, Nathan Eaton and Joseph Broshears, Justices of the Peace. THURSTON COUNTY Yi Stephen Ruddle deelming the Prol3ate Judgeship, Joseph Cushman was appointed in his place, r . .:; . The County Commissioners adopted measures^ protecting the school interests in the matter of .public lauds; fixed the license fee for retailing liquor at $100. for six. months, and l)owling alleys at $25 per annum, and accepted a report from Thos. J. Chambers, who had been appointed to mark out a quarter section of land for the benefit of a County seat to be the most valuable unclaimed land within the limits of the County. Mr. Chambers reported in favor of section 19, town- ship 18, range 1 West, The tax rolls for 1854 showed a valuation of $418,140 and the rate of taxation was fixed at 3 mills. The Commissioners this year authorized the construction of a bridge across the Bay on the Eastside at a cost of $500, and one across the Skookumchuck, for which they appropriated $1,000. The former bridge was built at a cost of $1,500, $1,000 being subscribed for that purpose. Up to this time no proper provision had been made for County offices and records were kept in a very temporary manner. The Commissioners now authorized a contract for a Court House to cost not to exceed $1,200 and ordered the Auditor to procure suitable books for the records. At the election in 1854 three tickets were in the field. Free Soil, Democratic and Whig. There were no local issues involved and the battle was fought along the lines agitated in the East. The straight Democratic County ticket was elected, as follows : Eepresentatives, Wm. Cock, B. L. Henness, Stephen Guth-^ rie, Wm. P. Wells; County Commissioners, Levi Shelton, S. S. Ford, John Low; Probate Judge, Joseph Cushman; School Superintendent, D. R. Bigelow; Auditor, U. E. Hicks; Treas- urer, Wm. Rutledge ; Sheriff, A. B. Rabbeson ; Assessor, Wm. Packwood; Coroner, A. J. Baldwin. J. Patton Anderson, who had come to the Territory as United States Marshal, was elected as Delegate to Congress. During this period Governor Stevens returned East, spend- ing much of his time at the National Capitol, in the interests of his Territory. Much of the legislation secured for Wash- ington was due to his efforts, which included needed amend- 20 HISTORICAL SKETCH ments to the land laws and the creation of the offce of Sur- veyor General, and making appropriations for surveys and mail service. Governor Stevens and his family left New York City for the Territory September 20, 1854, and arrived at their new home in December. A pen picture of the impression gained by the family, upon their arrival, as described by General Stevens, showed conditions as they then prevailed : "It was a dreary dark December day. It had rained considerably. The road from Tumwater to Olympia Avas ankle deep in mud and thrided a dense forest with a narrow track. With expectations raised at the idea of seeing the Capital and chief town of the Territory, the weary travelers toiled up a small hill in the edge of the timber, reached the summit and eagerly looked to see the new metropolis. Their hearts sank with bitter disappointment as they surveyed the dismal and forlorn scene before them. A low, flat neck of land, running into the bay, down it stretched the narrow, muddy track, winding among the stumps, which stood thickly on either side twenty small wooden houses bordered the road, while back of them on the left and next the shore were a number of Indian lodges, with canoes drawn up on the beach, and Indians and dogs lounging about." The little hill mentioned is where the IMasonic Temple now stands, opposite the new Federal building. The site of the Indian camp is now Columbia Street, between Third and Fourth. There were only one or two buildings above, or south of Sixth Street. The public square was a tangle of fallen timber. Main street terminated in Giddings' wharf, which was left high and dry at low tides." It is not a matter of surprise that the Governor's family were appalled at the appearance of their future home, accen- tuated as it was by the hardships of the trip from the East, the latter part of which is thus described : "* * * The party took canoes (at a point named Rainier), manned by Indians, crossed the Columbia and paddled a few miles up the Cowlitz to Monticello, where they spent the night. At daylight the next morning the Governor and family em- barked in one canoe, while the trunks and baggage followed in another, and pushed up stream against a swift current. There were in the canoe the Governor, his wife and four THURSTON COUNTY 21 ohildren, the nurse and a crew of four Indians, two on each end. It was a dark, drizzling day, with frequent showers. The passengers sat upon the bottom of the canoe upon plenty of Indian mats and well wrapped in blankets, and, except for the strained and irksome position w^ere fairly comfortable. The Indians, urged by promises of extra pay, paddled vigor- ously. At the rapids (and it seemed that nearly all the stream Avas in rapids) they laid aside their paddles, and, standing up, forced the canoe ahead with poles, which they wielded with great skill and vigor. * * * It was dark when they reached Cowlitz Landing, thirty miles from Monticello." Mrs. Stevens continues the narrative, here quoted, as a vivid description of the- methods of travel in this section at that time : "* * * We walked ankle deep in mud to a small log house, where we had a good meal. Here we found a number of rough, dirty-looking men, with pantaloons tucked inside their boots, and so much hair upon their heads and faces that they all looked alike. After tea we were shown a room to sleep in, full of beds, which were for the women. I was so worn out with the novel way of traveling, that I laid down on a narrow strip of bed, not undressed, all my family along- side on the same bed. The Governor sat on a stool near by, and, strange to say, slept sound through the long, dismal night. He had been shown his bed up through a hole on top of the shanty. He said one look was sufficient. Men were strewn as thick as possible on the floor in their blankets. The steam generated from their wet clothes, boots and blankets was stifling. One small hole cut through the roof was the only ventilation. As soon as breakfast was over the next morn- ing, we mounted a wagon without springs and proceeded on our journey. There surely were no worse roads in the world than this. The horses went down deep into the mud every step ; the wheels sank to the hub, and often had to be pried out. We forded rivers, the water coming above our ankles in the wagon. Many big, deep holes they would jump over, making the horses run quick, when the wagon would jump across, shaking us up fearfully. In one of these holes the horses fell down, and we stuck fast in the mud. We were taken from the wagon by men of our party, plunging up to 22 HISTORICAL SKETCH their knees in mud, and carrying us out by sheer force of their strength. After seating us upon a fallen log, the horses were, with difficulty, extricated from the mud. After an- other long day's tiresome travel we stopped at a log house for the night." The Governor's party proceeded the following day through a drizzling rain, with the roads all but impassible. At Saun- ders Bottom, where the Town of Chehalis now stands, the mud was knee deep for two miles. This day the party made 25 miles. The travelers reached Olympia the next day, after 30 miles' travel, upon a somewhat better road. Such were the hardships endured by those looking for new homes in the far Northwest, but harder yet were the experiences of those reaching here by way of the Natchez Pass, as many were com- ing that way. An idea of the cost of living during- this period, may be gleaned from the following market report, published in the onl}' paper printed in the Territory at that time : Potatoes, per bushel, $3; flour, $'10 per 100 pounds; pork, 20 cents ; butter, $1 per pound ; onions, .$4 ber bushel ; eggs, $1 a dozen ; beets, .'|;3.50 per bushel ; sugar, 121/2 cents ; coffee, 18 cents ; tea, $1 ; molasses, 75 cents ; salmon, 10 cents. Sawed lumber for $20 per thousand ; cedar, $30 ; shingles, $4.50 ; piles, per foot, 5 to 8 cents ; square timber, per foot, 12 to 15 cents. In December, 1854, W. B. Goodell established a stage line between Olympia and Cowlitz via Grand Mound, leaving Olympia on Tuesdaj's and Fridays of each week. At Cowlitz, near the present site of Toledo, it made connections with boats for Monticello and Portland. Olympia to Grand Mound, $3.50 ; to Cowlitz, $10.00. W. W. Miller built a saw mill the latter part of 1854 on the East side of Budd's Inlet, a short distance below the town, and the old Masonic hall was built on the site of the more pretentious Temple of today. In this old building the Legislative session of 1855 w^as held. Edward Giddings built a wharf, 300 feet long, at the foot of Main Street, which was used for many j^ears. Later it was extended to deep water and was used until the Government deepened the channel for a nearer approach to the town. In 1855, Samuel Coulter, who had been appointed As- THURSTON COUNTY 23 sessor, reported the valuation of taxable property at $396,825, and a levy of 4 mills was made. The County debt, at the same time amounted to $4,388.29. Among other duties devolving upon the Legislature of 1855 was that of permanently locating the seat of Govern- ment. Hon. Arthur A. Denny was a member of the House from King County, and spoke as follows upon the subject: "Mr. Speaker: — I propose to do now what I have not done before : I propose to say now what I have not heretofore said to anyone (if my memory serves me) relative to my views upon this location question. I now for the first time announce my purpose to vote for the location of the territorial capital at or near Olympia; and for my vote upon this cpies- tion I shall briefly assign a few reasons. "Justice to all sections of the territory require at our hands patient and careful investigation as to the proper place at which to locate the Territorial capital. Its location should be central both as to its geographical position, as well as to its center compared with our population. In my investigation of this question, I have arrived at the conclusion that Olympia is nearer the geographical center than any other point I have heard mentioned during the discussion on this subject — and that it is also nearer the center of our present popula- tion. If, Mr. Speaker, you take Thurston County, with its population and add it to the Counties north, there will be found a clear and decided majority of the population of our Territory in those Counties. If you will take Thurston from the northern Counties and unite her with the Counties south, then it will show a still more decided majority south. Thus it is clearly demonstrated that Olympia is about the center of population in this Territory. It is as easily accessible from all parts of the Territory as any place which has been named during the pendency of this question, or that could have been named. It is at the head of navigation at a point the fartl:iest inland, accessible from all Counties north by all manner of watercraft from steamer down to the Indian canoe. It is in a direct line from the Counties south to the Counties north, of the Territory. If you travel from the northern to the southern Counties, you must go through Thurston or travel out of your course. If you travel from the southern to the 24 HISTORICAL SKETCH northern Connties yon have to pass throngh Thnrston. Then as to the particnlar location — the site is clearly eligible, the land selected is elevated and overlooks the placid waters of Pnget Sound for many miles to the northward. The scenery is grand and imposing — to the north the Coast Range is seen looming up in the distance, ]\Ionnt Olympus standing out in bold relief amidst the hundreds of less elevated peaks in the vicinity. "Indeed, Mr. Speaker, I know of no other place combin- ing anything like the claims, all things considered, to the Ter- ritorial capital as does this immediate vicinity ; hence I shall most willingly give my support to the bill under consideration. In doing so, I am influenced by no motives of a pecuniary character— I own no town lots or landed estate in Thurston County and such is the poor estimate of my vote or influ- ence that I have not had even the offer of an oyster suppei- from the good citizens of Olympia as an inducement for either. ' ' Even as early as 1855 the question of prohibition was, to some extent, agitated. This year the Legislature submitted the question of the manufacture and sale of ardent spirits to a vote of the people of the Territory at the next election in July. Quite a vigorous campaign was had, Elwood Evans being appointed Chairman of the Executive Committee, who issued a call upon temperance people to form societies. A Democratic County Convention was called for April of this year. The Whig convention was held May 5, and the Free Soil convention ]\Iay 26. At the election Thurston County gave J. Patton Anderson, Democratic candidate for Delegate to Congress nine majority. Wm. Cock was elected Council- man; R. M. Walker, C. B. Baker, D. J. Chambers, Repre- sentatives; T. F. Berry. Surveyor; Assessor, W, B. D. New- man; Commissioner, J. S. Broshears; Fence Viewer, R. ]\[. Walker ; Lieutenant Colonel, Joseph Miles ; Major, J. K. Hurd. The vote of Thurston by precincts will give the reader a practical idea of how the population was scattered through- out the County : Three hundred and seventy-three votes were cast as follows : Olympia precinct, 260 ; South Bay, 18 ; Black Lake, 15; Yelm Prairie, 18; Grand Mound, 39; Miami, THURSTON COUNTY 25 9 ; Coal Bank, 18. Prohibition received a majority of 14 votes in this County, but failed to carry in the Territory. In August, 1855, a two story school building was erected to replace the one that had been crushed by snow a few years previously. This building has served various purposes. Erected as a school house originally, it was so used for years ; from 1871 to 1892 it was the Court house, and latter became a newspaper office. It has since been moved off the property at Sixth and Franklin and is now occupied as a lodging house. A history of the year 1856 is almost exclusively a story of Indian troubles. All the serious difficulties that Thurs- ton County experienced in this regard, or during which much apprehension was felt, was during this year. Reports were coming to Olympia of troubles in the White River valley, which aroused considerable apprehension. The Yakima tribes were the troublesome element, and it was presumed then, and has since been accepted as reasonably certain, that they were en- couraged in their depredations by the Hudson Bay Company, which, in this way, hoped to discourage immigration. The first overt act to occur in Thurston County, and from which trouble may be said to date, was early in 1854, when a Kake (a Northern tribe) Indian was killed by a man named Burke, both of whom worked for H. L. Butler, at But- ler's Cove. Subsequently the Northern Indians frequently visited the head of the Sound and committed depredations. The acts at least became so flagrant that Commander Swart- out, then in command of what United States navy there was in these waters, was notified. On November 20th, he made an attack upon their camp at Port Gamble. About thirty were killed and twenty wounded, their camp and canoes destroyed. The remainder were taken to Victoria. This act but served to whet the appetite of the Indians for revenge. The Indians on the Sound, including those on the Straits, numbered about 8,000, divided into many tribes and bands. Governor Stevens, early in his administration, outlined a very wise and pacific policy toward the Indians, and one which he devoted himself to actively and sincerely, the fea- tures of which were : 1. To concentrate the Indians upon a few reservations 26 HISTORICAL SKETCH and encourage them to cultivate the soil and adopt civilized habits. 2. To pay for their lands in annuities of blankets, cloth- ing, and stable articles during a long term of years, rather than in money. 3. To furnish them with schools, teachers, farmers and farming implements, blacksmiths and carpenters, with shops of their trade. 4. To discourage wars and disputes among them. 5. To abolish slavery. 6. To stop, as far as possible, the use of liquor. 7. They were to retain rights of hunting and fishing on vacant lands. 8. That at some future date, when they were deemed fitted for it, the reservations were to be allotted to them in severalty. The first Council in Thurston County was held on McAl- lister Creek, a mile above its mouth, on the right bank. The Indians, to the number of 650, assembled, and Gov- ernor Stevens made an address, at once pacific and appealing, in which he made plain to the Indians his policy as outlined above, and invited their co-operation. The treaty was then read, section by section, and the Indians given every opportunity to discuss it. After which, there being no objections, the treaty was signed by Governor I. I. Stevens and the Chiefs, Delegates and Headmen on the part of the Indians. Provisions and presents were then de- livered to the Chiefs, who divided them among the Indians. Following is a synopsis of the treaty: 1. The Indians to cede their lands in Thurston, Pierce and parts of ]\Iason and King to the United States. 2. Set off as reservations: Squaxon Island, containing about 1280 acres ; a square tract of two sections near and south of the mouth of JMcAliister Creek and another equal tract on the south side of Commencement Bay, with aeeossible roads to and through them. 3. Conceded right of fishing and hunting on other than claimed lands. 4. Twenty-two thousand five hundred dollars to be paid in annuities in staple and useful articles. THURSTON COUNTY . 27 5. Thirty thousand two hundred and fifty dollars to be expended in placing the Indians on their reservations. 6. Empowered the President to remove the Indians when the interests of the Territory demanded, by reimbursing the Indians for improvements. 7. Prohibited use of annuities to pay personal debts. 8. Prohibited wars, and provided for arbitration of dif- ferences by the G-overnment. 9. Excluded liquor from reservations on penalty of for- feiture of annuity. 10. Provided for a General Agency and instruction in useful trades for twenty years. 11. Abolished slavery. 12. Prohibited trade by the Indians outside of the United States, and forbade foreign Indians residing on the reserva- tions except by consent of the Agent. Sixty-two Indians signed. Leschi, an intelligent and de- signing Indian, who has since been immortalized by having a Seattle park named for him, being the third. The first signer was Qui-ee-muth, Leschi 's brother. Both these Indians met death as a reward for their treachery. On October 14, 1855, Acting Governor Mason issued a proclamation, stating conditions and called for the enrollment of two Companies, and Vancouver and Olympia were named as places of enrollment. The Company enrolled at Olympia was called the Puget Sound Mounted Volunteers, which elected officers as follows . Captain, Gilmore Hays; First Lieutenant, Jared S. Hurd; Sec- ond Lieutenant, Wm. Martin ; First Sergeant, Joseph Gibson ; Second Sergeant, H. D. Cock ; Third Sergeant, Thomas Prather ; Fourth Sergeant, Joseph White ; First. Corporal, Jo- seph S. Taylor; Second Corporal, Whitfield Kirtley; Third Corporal, D. T. Wheelock; Fourth Corporal, John Scott. The people were disappointed in receiving arms that were expected at that time, which necessitated a visit by Surveyor General Tilton to Seattle with a view to securing arms from the Decatur, a sloop of war, and the revenue cutter Jefferson Davis, both then in the harbor. He was successful to the ex- tent of securing 30 muskets, 40 carbines, 50 holster pistols, 50 sabers and belts and 3500 ball cartridges. 28 ■ HISTORICAL SKETCH Nathan Eaton, a settler in Thurston, was authorized by Acting Governor Mason, to organize a Company of Rangers which was officered as follows: First Lieutenant, James Mc- Allister ; Second Lieutenant, James Tullis ; Third Lieutenant. A. M. Poe; First Sergeant, John Harold; Second Sergeant, Chas. E. Weed; Third Sergeant, W. W. Miiler; Fourth Ser- geant, S. Phillips; First Corporal, S. D. Reinhart; Second Corporal, Thos. Bracken ; Third Corporal, S. Hodgdon ; Fourth Corporal, James Hughes. Both Companies proceeded to White River valley on Oc- tober 20, 1855. A Company was organized on Mound Prairie and the citizens then built a blockhouse for protection. A Company was also formed on Chambers Prairie. As a precautionary measure it was deemed wise to hold a reserve force and four more Companies were called for. By the terms of this call, Lewis, Thurston, Pierce and Samamish were to furnish one Company to enroll at Olympia. This Company enrolled 110 men and elected the following officers: Captain, Geo. B. Goudy; First Lieutenant, W. B. Affleck; Sec- rnd Lieutenant, J. K. Hurd; First Sergeant, Francis Lindler; Second Sergeant, A. J. Baldwin; Third Sergeant, F. W. Sealy; Fourth Sergeant, James Roberts. Jos. Walraven, E. W. Austin, Hiel Barnes and Joseph Dean, Corporals. Stockades for the protection of families were built in this County, one on Chambers Prairie and one on Mound Prairie. Business was practically suspended in town and claims were abandoned in the country. Men were either pre- paring to leave for the scene of the trouble or were engaged in the erection of forts and stockades for protection. The Rangers left home on October 24th, to seek the wilv Chief of the Nesquallys, Leschi, who was the instigator of much of the trouble and hostile attitude of many of the na- tives, but they found he had gone to the White River Valley, and the troops immediately started in pursuit. At Puyallup Crossing, Captain Eaton, Lieutenant McAllister and Connell, together with a friendly Indian, went ahead of their Com- pany to have a conference with the Indians. The Indians, with characteristic treachery, professed friendship. Upon re- turning to camp, McAllister and Connell were fired upon and THURSTON COTJNTY 29 killed. An Indian rode to the McAllister claim and told the family of McAllister's death and helped them to the fort on Chambers' Prairie. A few days later Cols. A. B. Moses and Joseph Miles were killed. It was for the murder of these men that Leschi was afterward executed. Emissaries from the hostiles on the East side of the moun- tains visited the Sound Indians, and by ingenious argument in- •eited the natives on this side to hostility. Straggling bands were pei'petrating outrages here and there, and thus were families intimidated and forced to take refuge in Olympia, A town meeting was held, at which Wm. Cock was chosen chairman and Elwood Evans, secretary. After discussing the situation it was resolved to build a stockade. Rev. J. F. Devore, R. M. Walker and Wm. Cock were constituted a com- mittee to proceed at once on works for defense, and, if neces- sary, to detain the brig Tarquina, then in the harbor, as a means of refuge. While this condition existed and a sable cloud lay low over the little town, the bodies of McAllister, JMoses and Miles were brought in. and during a dismal fall of rain, the little community bared their heads in grief over the mortal remains of their first martyrs. The three young men were buried on Chambers' Prairie, A stockade was erected along Fourth Street, from bay to bay, with a block house at the corner of Main, on which was placed a cannon. These were merely precautionary measures. Actual fight- ing occurred only in the White and Puyallup Valleys, and in December, the Militia Companies were disbanded. An attack on Seattle occurred January 26, 1856, and Governor Stevens then issued a proclamation calling for six Companies, two of which were to enroll at Olympia. The entire white population of the Sound at this tim: was barely 4,000 souls and all the male population fit to bear arms had been and were now devoting their time and energies 1 defense, rather than in the pursuit of their occupations ; they were destitute and discouraged, and were receiving little or no help from the Government. The first Company here to respond was officered as fol- lows : Captain, Gilmore Hays ; First Lieutenant, A. B. Rabbe- 2(? HISTORICAL SKETCH son ; Second Lieutenant, Wni. Martin; Orderly Sergeant, Frank Ruth ; Sergeants, A. J. Moses, D. , IMartin, M. Goddell ; Cor- porals, N. B. Coffey, J. L. IMj^ers, F. Hughes, H. Horton. A Company of Mounted Rangers elected officers as follows : Captain, B. L. Henness ; F'irst Lieutenant, Geo. C. Blanken- ship; Second Lieutenant, F. A. Godwin; Sergeants, Jos. Cush- man, W. J. Yeager, Henry Laws, Jas. Phillips ; Corporals, Wni. E. ICady, Thos. Hicks, S. A. Phillips, H. A. Johnson. On February 8 there was organized a company of miner.-* and sappers under Captain Jas. A. White ; U. E. Hicks, First Lieutenant ; McLain Chambers, Second Lieutenant ; D. J. Hub- bard, C. White. Marcus McMillan, H. G. Parsons, Sergeants, Corporals, Isaac Lemon, Wm. Ruddell, Wm. Mengle. This Company was organized to cut roads, build fortifications, guard stock, etc. Adjutant General Tilton, on JIarch 1, issued a call for 100 more men for service under Major Hays, with headquarter-?^ at Olympia, and in April a block house Avas built, sufficient to accommodate the whole population, on a site now known as Capital Park. The spot is indicated by a stone, erected by the Daughters of the American Revolution, to mark the end of the Oregon trail. The Indians now seemed tiring of the unavailing struggle, although a Peace Commission composed of M. T. Simmons and Ed. C. Fitzhugh, appointed by the Governor to treat with tlu- Indians, was unable to bring about satisfactory results. But the Indians were disbanding and the soldiers returned home, subject to call and were finally mustered out in August. The horses, stores, etc., were sold at public auction. An incident which shows the characteristic integrity and regard for honor prevalent among the pioneers is here given. An officer of one of the volunteer Companies had captured a mule in Grand]; Ronde Valley. While in the service, he rode it home to Olympia, and turned it in. He desired to bid it in and own if, but the highest bid was $475 and the faithful volunteer, impoverished by ten months' military' service, was unable to meet the raise. During the struggle stockades and block houses had been built in Thurston County by settlers as follows : Stockade at Cochran's, Skookumchuck; stockade. Fort Henness, Grand THURSTON COUNTY 81 Mound Prairie; stockade at GoodelPs, Grand Mound Prairie; block house, Tenalquct Prairie; block house. Nathan Eaton's. Chambers Prairie; two block houses. Chambers Prairie; block liouse at Euddell's. Chambers P^rairie; stockade at Bush's. Bush Prairie; block house at Rutledge's. Bush Prairie; Uyo hlock houses in Tumwater; block house at Doffelmeyer's Point. Forts and block houses built in Thurston County by the Yolunteers were : Block house at Skookumchuck, Fort Miller. Tenalquot Plains; Fort Stevens, Yelm Prairie; block house at Ijowe's, Chambers Prairie; block house and stockade at Olympia. No stockades were built by the Federal troops in Thur.s- ton County. The Volunteers had acquitted themselves creditably. Though a sturdy type of the Western pioneer, they had sub- ;)ected themselves to strict discipline. All captured property was turned over or accounted for. No case of wanton kill- ing of Indians had been reported. At the close of hostility the settlers justly felt that the murderers among the Indians should be tried and subjected To punishment. In this they Avere firmly supported by Gov- ernor Stevens. In a letter to Col. Casey, the Governor asked his assistance to this end : "I have, therefore, to request your aid in apprehending Lesehi, Qui-ee-muth. Kitsap, Slahi and Nelson, and other mur- derers, and to keep them in custody awaiting a warrant from the nearest magistrate *^ * *. "In conclusion I have to state that I do not believe that any country or any age has afforded an example of the kind- ness and justice which has been shown towards the Indians by the suffering inhabitants of the Sound during the recent troubles. They have, in spite of the few cases of murder which have occurred, shown themselves eminently law-abiding, a just and forbearing people. They desire the murderers of the In- dians to be punished, but they complain, and they have a right to complain, if the Indians, whose hands are steeped in the blood of the innocent, go unwhipped of justice." There had arisen a question between the Governor and the military as to Avether any promise of protection had been made to the Indians when they delivered themselves up to n HISTORICAL^ SKETCH Colonel Wright iii Yakima, Col. Casey claiming that to attempt to hold any on a charge of murder would be a violation of good faith. The Governor positively controverted the assump- tion of protection to the Indians, as he had received positive {Assurance from Col. Wright that he had made no terms with them and promised them no imnmnity. The Governor, rely- ing upon this statement made to him by Col. Wright, in the presence of creditable witnesses, refused to receive and take charge of a party of about 100 Sound Indians until the mur- derers' were arrested, claiming that Lesehi and the others had committed murders in time of peace, in a barbarous way, when their victims were unaware of danger. However, the accused murderers were arrested and in- dicted and received hy Col. Casey for custody at Fort Steila- coom, whereupon the Governor took charge of the other In- dians and returned them to their reservations. At the first trial of Lesehi the jury disagreed, but at a subsequent trial he was convicted. The case was appealed to the Supreme Court, where the judgment of the lower court was affirmed, and the murderer was sentenced to be hanged on January 22, 1858, at Fort Steilacoora. Petitions were circulated for pardon and numerous remonstrances were filed with the Gov- ernor, but the Governor declined to interfere. Time for the execution passed and Lesehi still lived. A committee, ap- pointed by indignant citizens, inquired into the cause for de- lay. The report of this eoiumittee disclosed interference by the military authorities at Fort Steilacoom, and severely cen- sured the Sheriff of Pierce County. At a session of the Su- preme Court February 12, 1858, Lesehi was re-sentenced to liang February 19. Sheriff Hays was ordered to carry out the order of the court. In the absence of the Sheriff. Deputy Mitchell went, with a posse of twelve men, to Steilacoom, where the sentence was carried out and Lesehi was made to pay the penalty of his crimes. Yelm Jim, who had been charged with the murder of Wm. White in March, 1856, came to trial April, 1859. He was found guilty and was sentenced to be hanged. Before the time set for the execution arrived, however, two Indians came to Olympia and confessed to the crime. Yelm Jim was pardoned. THURSTON COUNTY 33 Qui-ee-muth, Leschi's brother, was captured near Yelm and brought to the Governor's office in Olympia late at night. The Governor stationed a guard over the Indian, with strico orders for protection until morning, when the prisoner would be removed to Steilacoom. About daylight, while the guard slept, a man burst into the room, shooting the Indian in the arm and then stabbing him. The deed was done and the assassin gone before the guard was thoroughly aroused. The man making the attack was not identified, and no testimony could be found against anyone. The impression gained cred- ence, hoAvever, that Joseph Bunting, son-in-law of McAllister. committed the deed, thus revenging the death of McAllister. As has been before stated, the Indians, in their hostilities toward the settlers, were much encouraged by the Hudson Bay Company. During the war there lived in the country back of Steilacoom, a number of ex-employees of the Com- pany, who had Indian wives and half breed children. It was leported to the Governor that these men were giving aid and comfort to the Indians. The Indians who killed White and Northcraft in Thurston County, were tracked straight to the houses of these men, who, when asked concerning it, admitted the fact, but denied any knowledge of their acts. As a precautionary measure, the Governor ordered these men to remove either to Steilacoom, Nisqually or Olympia, until the end of hostilities, where they would be harmless to the interests of the settlers. Accordingly twelve of them moved in. They had taken out their first papers and had located donation claims. A few lawyers who had not dis- tinguished themselves by assisting, or even been identified with, the worthy settler in resisting the Indians, here saw a chance for serving their own purposes, and incited these men to resist the Governor's order in the courts, and in the mean- time return to their claims, which five of them did. On learning this, the Governor ordered them arrested and turned over to Col. Casey at Fort Steilacoom. Then the designing lawyers sued out a writ of habeas corpus. To forestall an effort on the part of the conspirators to seriously impair the plans of his administration, the Gov- ernor declared martial law on April 3. The prisoners were brought to Olympia and incarcerated in the old block house 34 HISTORICAL SKETCH on the public square. Judge Chenoweth, whose place it was to hear the proceedings, plead illness, and asked Judge Lander, whose district included Thurston County, to hear the habeas corpus cases. Lander hastened to Steilacoom and opened court May 7. The Governor had urged the Judge to adjourn court until Indian troubles were over, which must necessarily be soon, and all trouble thus averted. But Lander proceeded to open court, whereupon Col. Shaw walked into court and arrested the Judge and the officers of his court and brought them to Olympia, where they were released. Lander, being then at home, and the time for holding court in his own district having arrived, he opened court on the 14th, and summoned the Governor to answer contempt proceedings. The Governor ignored the order and accordingly United States ]\Iarshal Geo. W. Corliss proceeded to the Gov- ernor's office to arrest him. The Marshal and his party, how- ever, after failing to execute their errand, were ejected from the office by a party composed of Major Tilton, Capt. Cain, Jas. Doty, Q. A. Brooks, R. M. Walker, A. J. Baldwin, Lewis Ensign, Chas. E. Weed and J. L. Mitchell. Mounted volunteers entered the Town and Judge Lander hearing of their approach, adjourned court, and, in company with Elwood Evans, went to the office of the latter and locked themselves in. Captain Miller, with his men, approached, and finding himself barred, remarked: "I will here add a new letter to the alphabet, let 'er rip," and kicked in the door and arrested the occupants of the room. Evans was re- leased at once. Lander was held in honorable custody until the war was over. Much was made of this act by the enemies of Governor Stevens to injure him and his administration. A mass meet- ing was held in Olympia on the public square (now Capital Park), which was presided over by Judge B. F. Yantis, J. W. Goodell, Secretary, which heartily endorsed the course of thn Governor in declaring martial law. The proclamation revoking martial law was promulgated May 24 and Lander held court in July following. The Gov- ernor appeared in court by counsel disclaiming any disrespect to the Court, was fined $50, which he paid, and the incident was closed. THURSTON COUNTY 25 At the election which occurred in July, Thurston County elected the entire Democratic ticket, except Sheriff, which was as follows : Councilman, J. W. "Wiley ; Representatives, B. L. Henness, C. B. Baker, J. A. Longmire, Daniel Kiper, G. C. Blankenship, Wm. Rutledge ; Auditor, Wm. Wright ; As- sessor, T. W. Glascow ; Treasurer, G. K. Willard ; Coroner, H. D. Morgan. Isaac Hays, on the Whig ticket, defeated Samuel Coulter. The Democratic ticket was opposed by the Whigs and Free Soilers. The Puget Sound Institute, a private school, was organ- ized this year by Rev. J. F. Dillon, a Methodist minister, as- sisted by his wife. The end of the year 1856 found confidence restored among the settlers, who had returned to the pursuit of their avocations. Settlers had returned to their claims without fear. The first threshing machine was brought into the County and a cabinet and chair factory was opened in town. J. M. Swan platted his donation claim adjoining the Sylvester tract, on the East side of the bay, which was known for many years as Swantown. The Northern Pacific Railroad Company was incorporated by the Legislature of 1857. Under the terms of the charter the road was to commence at one of the passes in the Rocky Mountains between the Territories of Washington and Ne- braska and connecting with such road passing through Min- nesota and Nebraska as the Company might select, thence to the Sound. The following residents of the Territory were incorporators : I. I. Stevens, C. H. Mason, E. Lander, Geo. Gibbs, B. F. Kendall, Wm. Cock, R. M. W^alker, W. W. Miller, W. H. Wallace, Lafayette Baleh, M. T. Simmons, Elwood Evans, A. A. Denny, David Phillips, Alex Abernethy, J. P, Keller, Jas. Tilton, E. H. Fowler, S. D. Howe, E. C. Fitz- hugh, Walter Crockett, L. H. Davis, C. C. Pagett, Jno. R. Jackson, Seth Catlin, Wm. Strong, Wm. Dillon, Sumner Barker, Wm. Kelly, Ira Patterson, H. D. Huntington, N. Os- trander and B. B. Bishop. The Legislature also authorized the appointing of a Board of Commissioners with authority to build a bridge across the Western arm of Budd's Inlet. Wm. Cock, Edwin Marsh, W. W. Miller, Wm. McLain, J. K. Hurd, Jos. Cushman, S. W. 36 HISTORICAL SKETCH Percival and Elwood Evans composed the Commission. The report favored a bridg-e 1803 feet long, with a draw, at an estimated cost of $3000. At the ]\Iarch term of the County Commissioners the election precincts of Coal Bank, Rabbeson's Prairie, Nisqually Prairie and ^liami were abandoned and the territory attached to adjoining precincts. This was due, in a great extent, to the depopulating of the country by the Indian War. Notwithstanding the fact that the country showed a falling off in population, Olympia continued to improve and a number tf small industries were started in 1857. The rate of taxation was 3 mills for County purposes. 1 for court, 1 for territorial, and 2 mills for school purposes. On July 13 the annual election occurred. The opposition to the Democrats of the year before had united under the name of Republican. The Democrats carried the election, losing only the School Superintendent and Prosecuting At- torney. The following officers were elected : Representatives W. W. Miller, Stephen Guthrie, B. F. Shaw, C. B. Baker, T. W Glascow; Joint Representative, W. M. Morrow; Probate Judge, G. K. Willard; Assessor, J. R. Smith; County Commissioner, James Biles; School Superintendent, G. F. Whitworth ; Prose tuting Attorney, C. C. Hewitt ; Coroner, C. H. Hale. Governor Stevens was elected delegate to Congress this year, and Fayette McMullan was appointed to fill his plact, as Governor. Mc]\Iullan arrived in September and was en- thusiastically received. A contract was awarded the Pacific ]\Iail Steamship Com- pany to carry the mail from San Francisco to Olympia. The steamer Fairy, owned and operated on Puget Sound by A. B. Rabbeson, plying between Olympia and Steilacoom blew up when leaving the wharf at the latter place, October 15. The year 1858 Avas distinguished by the Frazier River ex- citement. Settlers in Washington and Oregon again abandoned their claims in quest of riches, as ten years before California had attracted them. Olj^mpia, being at the head of tidewater and the only town north of the Columbia, Avas an outfitting point for the miners. THURSTON COUNTY 37 "Wells Fargo & Co. established an office in Olympia tliis year, with T. M. Eeed as agent. The election of 1858 resulted in the choice of the entirf- Democratic ticket as follows : Councilman, W. "W. IMiller ; Eepresentatives, E. Sylvester, B. L. Henness, Wm. Rutledge J. M. Hawk, Jas. Longmire. Oliver Shead; Prosecuting At- torney, B. P. Anderson ; County Commissioner, Jas. Cornell ; Treasurer, G. K. Willard ; Auditor, Richard Lane ; Sheriff, G. C. Blankenship ; Assessor, Wm. Martin ; Coroner, A. J. Baldwin. As early as 1858 the matter of a transcontinental railroad began to be actively agitated. A meeting was held in Masonic Hall, September 29th, and Congress urged to make a land grant to the Northern Pacific Railroad. At this meeting Elwood Evans presided. Fruit growing as an industry began to attract attention and two nurseries were established in the County. A postal agent visited Olympia in the fall of this year and arranged for the mail steamer Constitution leaving on Monday instead of Friday. Connections were made at San Francisco by which overland mail reached Olj'mpia from St. Louis in 24 days. In May of 1859' the Commissioners called a special election to vote a 4-mill tax to build a new Courthouse. It was hoped to derive a revenue of $5,000, $2,500 to be applied to existing indebtedness. The proposition was decidedly' defeated. At the election in July the Democrats and Republicans had tickets in the field, the former being successful. For Councilman, Jas. Biles ; Representatives, B. L. Henness, G. K Willard, Oliver Shead. A. S. Yantis, Chas. E. Weed, Levi Shelton ; County Commissioner, A. J. Chambers ; Assessor. Jno. Chambers. Secretary C. H. Mason died in July of this year, at the age of 29. He was universally loved and respected. Immigration into Thurston County received a decided impetus at this time and resulted in much encouraging the earlier settlers. In October General Winfield Scott visited Olympia. he having come to the Northwest in connection with the inter- national boundary question. 38 HISTORICAL SKETCH At the session of the legislature this year a bill was intro- duced removing the Capitol from Olympia to Vancouver, which passed the house by a vote of 19 to 9. but met defeat in the Council by one vote. In the winter of this year, as a result of frequent fires. the first steps toward protection were taken by the organiza- tion of the Alert Hook and Ladder Company — Foreman, C. E. Williams ; 1st Assistant, J. L. Head ; 2d Assistant, H. D. ]\Ior- gan ; President, T. M. Eeed ; Secretary, A. J. Moses ; Treasurer. W. G. Dunlap. The Puget Sound University was chartered this year, with the following officers: D. E, Bigelow, Chancellor; G-. A. Barnes Vice President ; Rev. B. C. Lippincott, President and General Agent. The town of Olympia was incorporated January 29, 1859. the election to be held in April following. The Act designated G. A. Barnes, T. F. McElroy, Jas. Tilton, Jos. Cushman and Elwood Evans as Trustees. Jos. Cushman was elected Presi- dent of the Board. At the April election U. G. Warbass, Geo. A. Barnes Edwin Marsh, W. D. Dunlap and Isaac Lightner were elected Trustees. Geo. A. Barnes was elected President and Richard Lane Clerk of the Board. Dr. Warbass declined to serve and Elwood Evans was appointed. Contracts were let for cisterns at the intersections of Second, Third and Fourth Stre,ets with Main Street. The old blockhouse on the square was fitted up for a jail. A reaction from the good times of the previous years was experienced in 1860. The war cloud was looming large in the East, and helped to a degree the depression. The Capitol re- moval was again agitated in every County, which, together with a heavy assessment, on the previous year's boom valua- tions, did not help to relieve the feeling of discouragement. William Wright resigning as Count}^ Treasurer, T. F. McElroy was appointed to fill the vacancy. At this time Olympia was served by four religious de- nominations : Methodist, Presbyterian, Catholic and Epis- copalian. At the election this year the realignment in political parties began, as a result of the war issues, though the Democrats THUHSTON COUNTY 39 €4ected most of their ticket. The following County officers were elected for the ensuing year: Representatives, D. L. Phillips, B. F. Ruth, B. L. Henness, U. Gr. Warbass, Gilmorc; Hays and C. 11. Hale ; Sheriff, Wm. Billings ; School Superi)!- tendent, R. M. Walker; Auditor, Richard Lane; Treasurer, Wm. Wright; Commissioner. S. S. Ford; Probate Judge, R. M. Walker; Assessor, A. W. Sargent. At the legislative session this year steps were taken toward the erection of a capitol building. A Commissioner was appointed and bids called for. The matter went by de- fault, however, as no satisfactory bids were received. The Federal census of this year showed a population of 14S9 for Thurston County — 967 males, 522 females. Real prop- erty valuation was $942,990; personal, $586,710. Henry Winsor was awarded a daily mail contract between Olympia and Monticello. The Washington Standard v/as this year started by John Miller Murphy as a Republican paper and the Pioneer and Democrat was sold by Wiley & Furste to James Lodge. Swantown was connected with the main town by a foot- bridge early this year. The following Town Board Avas elected in 1860: G. A. Barnes, Elwood Evans, W. G. Dunlap, Isaac Lightner, Edv>^in Marsh. Wm. Billings was elected Marshal and D. R. Bigelow, Police Judge. When the legislature, of 1860-61 convened it was quite apparent that Portland, Oregon, was taking part in Washing- ton Territory's Capital fight, in her own interests. Under the great influence brought to bear the bill for removal to Van- couver passed both houses and was approved. However, it was discovered, after adjournment of the legislature, that the bill had no enacting clause, and, as enrolled, bore no date At a session of the Supreme Court at Olympia, a plea as to tht- jurisdiction of the Court, in one case, was entered. This brought the question squarely before the Court. The plea was C'Verruled, and Olympia has since remained the Capital. The legislature attached the south part of Thurston County to Lewis County. In July the question of Capital location was submitted to the people with the following result : Whole number of 40 HISTORICAL SKETCH votes east 2315, of which Olympia received 1239, Vancouver 639. Steilaeoom 253. Scattering votes went to Port Townsend, Walla Walla and Seattle. In 1861 the people of Tumwater offered, as a bonus for the location of the Comity seat at Tnmvrater, a considerable amount in lumber, shingles, labor and land. C. Crosby and wife filed with the Commissioners a bond in the sum of $4000. conditioned on the delivery of a deed for four blocks of land. At the same session Olympia offered to donate the public square to the County on condition that the County seat remain undisturbed. The matter being submitted to the people at the annual election following. Olympia received 344, Tumwater 104, West Olympia 4. Upan a delivery of a conveyance of the public s(iuare to the County a call was made for bids for 200,000 bricks, with which to build a jail. By the attaching of a portion of Thurston County to Lewis, Commissioner Biles was disvqualified from acting, though by failure of his successor to qualify, Mr. Biles presided at the next meeting of the Board, fixing a rate of 7 mills for school, court and Territorial purpose.^. The legislature of 1861 had extended the terms of County officers to two years, hence only Representatives to the legis- lature and County Commissioners were elected this year. B. F. Ruth, A. S. Yantis, Wm. Cock and Wm. McLain were elected Representatives. G. W. ^Miller and G. W. French were elected Commissioners. In the Summer of 1861 A. M. Poe established the Overland Press in Olympia. Rev. B. C. Lippincott this year assumed charge of the public school in Olympia. At the Spring election Elwood Evans, T. M. Reed, B. Harned, A. Frankee and S. W. Percival were elected Trustees. R. Lane was chosen Clerk, Wm. Billings, Marshal, and W. G. Dunlap, Magistrate. Upon the abandonment of the military post at Steilaeoom. which occurred this year, some uneasiness was felt due to the prevalent idea that the absence of troops might encourage the Indians *,o resume hostilities. But the year closed with THOMAS OTCHIN THURSTON COUNTY 41 bright prospects for the County. Of 53 postoffiees in the 'territory, Thurston County had nine. Early in 1862 the erection of a Courthouse was agitated. During the discussion of the matter it was discovered that the County had no title to the public square, which it had been reserving for County purposes. It will be recalled that a few years previously, after Tumwater had offered a bonus for the location of the County seat there, that Olympia made a deed to the County for the public square (bounded by Sixth. Seventh, Main and Washington Streets). Later it was found that Edmund Sylvester had donated this to the city for park purposes exclusively, hence the conveyance by the city to the County was invalid. At the May term of the Commissioners this year they purchased jjroperty on the northeast corner of Union and Washington streets, which had formerly been used for school purposes, and awarded a contract to B. Harned to fit up the building for courthouse purposes. F. M. Sargent resigned as County Treasurer and S. W. Percival was appointed to fill the vacancy. The election this year resulted in the choice of the follow- ing : Joint Councilman, 0. B. McFadden ; Eepresentatives, Wm. ]\IcLain, T. Hunt, H. Kandle, Jas. Longmire ; Sheriff. R. W. Moxlie ; Auditor, A. W. Moore ; Treasurer, S. W. Perci- val ; Surveyor, Edwin Marsh ; Attorney, B. F. Dennison ; Com- missioner, S. D. Ruddell. News of the death of Isaac I. Stevens, who was shot in the battle of Chantilly on September 1, was received in Olympic October 18. Proper memorial services were held here. Up to October of this year .$2,210.08 had been raised in Thurston County to aid the Federal cause. In 1862 B. F. Kendall, a man of marked ability, though combative and vindictive, had become publisher of the Over- land Press. In a December issue he charged a man named Horace Howe with burning the buildings of the Puget Sound Agricultural Company, in Lewis County. Later Howe met Kendall at the corner of Main and Third Streets, Olympia, and during a controversy struck Kendall with a switch he waij holding. Kendall ran, Howe following, for a short distance, then turned and fired four shots at his pursuer, one entering 42 HISTORICAL SKETCH the left side of Howe, which proved a serious but not fatal v.'ound. Kendall's version, as published in his own paper, gave offense to Howe's friends, and on January 8, 1863, Howe's son entered Kendall's office and asked to see him privately. The two retired to an adjoining room, when a pistol shot was heard and Howe came from the room saying. "I shot him in self defense." The young man was put under bail for his appear- ance for trial, but he later disappeared. The case was dis- missed, when some time afterward the news of Howe's death reached Olympia. The pistol used by the assassin was one be- longing to a prominent Territorial official, which gave some color to the belief at the time that Kendall was the victim of •d plot among political enemies. Town Council elected this year: G. A. Barnes, Jos. Cush- man, Jas. Tilton, C. E. Williams, W. G. Dunlap. E. Lane, Clerk; H. M. McGee, Magistrate; W. B. Gosnell, Marshal. Dunlap died soon after election and David Phillips succeeded him. Logging had begun to be engaged in ciliite extensively in and about Olympia, the output finding ready market at good prices. In 1863, being an off year, only a Legislative ticket, a Commissioner and Probate Judge were elected. The Unionists defeated the Democrats, with the following result: Repre sentatives, C. Crosby. H. D. IMcGee, Wm. McLain ; Commission- er, Joseph Gibson; Probate Judge, F. M. Sargent. At the Town election Jos. Cushman, C. E. Williams, B. Harned, S. Holmes and Wm. Mitchell were elected Trustees; R. Lane, Clerk; F. M. Sargent, Magistrate, and John Sealy, Marshal. W. J. Yeager succeeded the latter later. The Fall of 1863 John Paul Judson was elected teacher of the public school and was authorized to collect from the fecholars, or parents, a sum sufficient to make his salary $80 per month and for an assistant at $120 per quarter, in addition to the $50 allowed by law. The only examination to which teachers were submitted at this time was that made by a com- mittee of the Town Board. The year 1864 was one of unusual quiet, little transpiring of sufficient importance to chronicle THURSTON COUNTY 43 A tri-weekly mail contract direct to Portland was awarded Plenry Winsor. At the election Republicans and Democrats placed tickets in the field. The result was a victory for the Republicans, losing only their candidate for Auditor. Representatives, C. Crosby, s! D. Ruddle, F. M. Rhodes; Sheriff, J. H. Kellett; Commissioner, J. Dunlap; Auditor, R. Lane; Treasurer, S. W. Percival. The Fourth of July was enthusiastically celebrated this year, at the close of which a Lincoln and Johnson Club was organized, and notwithstanding the fact that the people had no vote for choice of President, the political interest was intense. A slight flurry was occasioned the latter part of 1864 by the report that gold had been discovered in the Nachez Pass, about 70 miles from Olympia. This little community furnished its quota of gold-seekers, who soon returned to their homes disappointed. Town officers elected : Trustees, L. D. Durgin, Jesse Chap- man, H. M. McGill, A. J. Brown, Edward Giddings ; Clerk, R. Lane ; Treasurer, Jesse Chapman ; Marshal, J. L. Head ; Magis- trate, F. M. Sargent. The first Sunday closing ordinance Avas passed by this Board. The Committee on Streets was instructed to build a reser- voir about a spring on the northeast corner of Main and Fourth streets and establish a pump for the convenience of the general public. This spring, which furnished pure and cold water had long been a village institution, and this corner a gathering place in the evening when alike politics and village gossip were discussed. On Sunday evening, September 4, 1864, the telegraph was completed to Olympia. The following congratulatory dispatch was sent by the Territorial executive to President Lincoln. It and its reply were the first messages sent between this Terri- tory and the National Capital : Washington Territory, Executive Office, Olympia, Sept. 5, 1854. To His Excellency Abraham Lincoln, President of the United States : Washington Territory this day sends her first telegraphic 44 HISTORICAL SKETCH dispatch greeting yourself, Washington City and the whole United States, with our sincere prayers to Almighty God that his richest blessings, both spiritual and temporal, may rest upon and perpetuate the Union of our beloved country, that His own omnipotent power may bless, protect and defend the President of the United States, our brave army and gallant navy, our Congress, and every department of the National government. For and on behalf of Washington Territory. WILLIAM PICKERING, Governor. (Reply) Washington. D. C, Sept. 6, 1864. Gov. Pickering. Olympia. W. T. : Your patriotic dispatch of yesterdaj' received and will be published. " A. LINCOLN. For the first term of school contract was made this year with J. P. Judson; for the two succeeding terms with D. J. Hubbard as principal. Olympia celebrated with great patriotic fervor the new>s which reached the West of the success of the Union armies. The news of Lincoln's assassination was received here, as else- where throughout the United States, with sincere grief. In the Summer of 1865 the wagon road across the Cascade ]Mountains was completed. This had long been a dream of the pioneers on both sides of the mountains. Thurston County had contributed $800 toward the project and every means was resorted to to help the project. Even the ladies of Olympia had put their hands to the wheel, and on July 4 gave a Calico Ball, turning the proceeds, $120, over to the road project. At the election this year Thurston County polled 362 votes, Denny (Republican) for deleg-ate to Congress, receiving 220 votes, and Tilton (Democrat) 142. The entire Republican County ticket was elected as follows : Councilman. S. S. Ford ; Representatives, AVm. McLain, G. W. Miller, S. D. Ruddell ; Commissioners, A. Tilley, W. S. Parsons ; School Superintendent. D. R. Bigelow ; Coroner, Robert Frost. Schuyler Colfax, Speaker of the National House of Repre- sentatives, visited the Sound in July of this year and addressed the people of Olympia. THURSTON COUNTY 45 The close of the war found the business affairs of the Sound region in good condition. Demand for lumber was activ^; tit good prices. Up to this time the male population had far exceeded the female in number. In view of this fact A. S. Mercer con- ceived the idea of chartering a vessel and bringing to the Sound a large number of women. On receiving notice from ^Mercer that the ship Continental was soon to leave Boston, with a large passenger list, Olympia appointed a committee, consisting of Elwood Evans and wife, D. R. Bigelow and wife, T. F. ]McElroy and wife, T. i\I. Reed and wife, Francis Henrj- and wife, George Barnes and wife, James Biles and wife, Henry Winsor and wife, to receive and provide for the newcomers. Homes in the County were found for 80, of the 300 that arrived. Panic struck the lumber industry, owing to a decision of a California Court that the export of lumber and spars cut from U. S. lands must be taxed $2.50 per M. Tax levy this year: Pour mills for County, 2 for School and 2y-j mills for road purposes. Owing to a lack of funds no public schools opened this year. For the purpose of running a private school, ]\Iisses Giddings and Slocum leased the school house. Town Trustees elected this year : Chas. Weed, U. E. Hicks, J. R. Wood, B. F. Yantis, Robt. Frost. U. E. Hicks was elected Treasurer; R. Lane. Clerk; W. J. Yeager, Marshal. This Board levied a tax for school purposes of IVi; mills and purchased a hand fire engine. Three tickets were put in the field at the election in 1866. The split in the Republican party was due to the disaffection between President Johnson and Congress. Change in the Republican party resulted in the election of the Democratic ticket with the exception of Henness for Sheriff. The following County officers Avere elected : Repre- sentatives, Jas. Longmire, B. F. Ruth, F. Henry; Sheriff, J. H. Kellett ; Auditor, P. F. Turpin ; Probate Judge, C. P. Judson ; Treasurer, I. Lightner; Commissioner, R. Waddell. The faithful old town pump gave away to a water system that was installed this year. The County Commissioners appropriated $800 toward the Swantown bridge, and provided bounties for the following 46 HISTORICAL SKETCH animals : "Wildcat $1, Coyote $2.50, Wolf $4, Cougar $5, grown Bear $2, Cub $1. S. S. Ford, Sr., who was a joint Councilman with Lewis County, died this year. In the election to fill the vacancy Wm. H. Mitchell defeated Geo. A. Barnes by 23 votes. On December 20, 1866, the stores at the lower end of Main Street, were flooded by the highest tide that had been known up to that time. Columbia Fire Engine Company was organized this year and formally took possession of the new hand engine. A. J. Baldwin was foreman. Town Trustees elected this year: Geo. A. Barnes, T. ]\I. Eeed, Isaac Lightner, B. Harned, A. J. Baldwin. T. M. Reed v»'as elected Treasurer and Eichard Lane, Clerk. L. P. Venen was this year elected principal of the district school. An exciting County election occurred in 1861 and resulted in the selection of the following officers : Wm. McLane, Councilman; F. Henry, Ira Ward and J. E. Baker, Representa- tives ; J. H. Kellett, Sheriff ; A. W. Cairnes, J. M. Shotwell and Jas. Dunlap, Commissioners; P. Turpin, Auditor; I. Lightner^ Treasurer; D. R. Bigelow, Probate Judge and School Superin- tendent. Jas. Longmire contested the election of IMcLane for the Council, which was again referred to the people, and Mr. Long- mire lost. In November of this year E. T. Gunn and J. N. Gale, com- menced the publication of the Olympia Transcript, as a Re- publican paper, the Washington Standard having been drawn into the Democratic field during the political evolutions now taking place. The Pacific Tribune was also established by Chas. Prosch & Sons. The Town Trustees serving this year were : F. Henry, G. A. Barnes, Albert Robb, J. G. Parker, J. M. Hawk. On November 15 occurred the death of M. T. Simmons, who lived in Lewis County. His death was mourned as a great loss. He had been identified with the history of the Sound country from the first, and was highly regarded as an upright citizen. THURSTON COUNTY 47 A contract was awarded to E. L. Finch to build a new Swantown bridge. Coal Bank precinct was re-created this year, the population of the southeast corner of the County having increased to justify it. The session of the Legislature of 1868 was a most acri- monious one. Personal altercations within and without the legislative halls made a very lively town out of the Capital, then a village of 500. So bitter was the feeling that personal encounters were frequent in the saloons and about the town of Olympia. The Marshville bridge to the Westside was completed this year. L. P. Venen was elected principal of the district school, assisted by Misses Slocum and Mary O'Neal as assistants. Town Trustees were elected to serve for the year as fol- lows : G. K. Barnes, Wm. Mitchell, C. E. Williams, Benj. Harned, C. H. Hale. Richard Lane was elected Clerk and Mr. Williams, Treasurer. The County Commissioners this year discovered that they were being systematically robbed by the wily Indians, who were taking animal scalps wherever they might be found and cashing in over Thurston County's counter. The practice was stopped by rigid regulations. At the August term the County Commissioners ordered the Auditor to advertise for bids for a two-story jail. The historical old blockhouse on the corner of the public square was razed this year and the lumber in it put upon the streets. At the organization of the Territory there was established at Olympia as the Capital a Territorial library, for which Con- gress had made an appropriation. But the first town library was established in 1869. On January 1, 1869, D. B. Finch, a wealthy steamboat man, commanding the old Eliza Anderson, running between Olympia and Victoria, donated to the Lodge of Good Templars of this city what was then known as the Olympic building on the site now occupied by the K. of P. hall, on condition that the Lodge would maintain a library and free reading room. The conditions were complied with and the first town library opened July 19th. The first librarian to take 48 HISTORICAL SKETCH charge was John B. Allen, a young attorney just from Minnesota, who was one of the first U. S. Senators from the State of Washington. Mr. Allen, telling his early experiences, related that the Lodge, having defaulted in part of his salary, he was given an old silver watch, in lieu thereof. In a trip down the bay later JMr. Allen met with an accident and the old watch went to the bottom of Budd's Inlet. Thus, the librarian was illy recompensed for his labors. As an indication of real estate values it might be stated that in February, 1869, C. J. Allen sold five acres of land adjoin- ing the Capital grounds for $5000. This is now known as the ^lottman addition. Early this year Wm. Billings took the contract to build a timber jail 16x20, tw^o cells, on the County property, Union and Washington Streets. In August 1869 Rabbeson & Clark were awarded a contract to build a Town Hall on Fourth Street, between Washington i'.nd Franklin. The building was completed November 26, and dedicated by ball and supper. The ground floor rooms were occupied for municipal purposes, while a hall, with ante room above, was utilized for many years as ball room, theater, etc. AVith other relics of the past the Town Hall, so familiar to the "old timer." is no more, as such, but has passed into private hands, and was recently torn down. In the Spring of 1869 the Columbia River and Puget Sound Railroad Company desired a terminus on Puget Sound. A com- mittee, composed of 0. B. McFadden, C. H. Hale, Joseph Cush- man, S. D. Howe. James Biles, G. W. French, H. Hartley. Clanrick Crosby, A. J. Chambers, W. H. Mitchell, C. C. Hewitt, P. D. Moore and J. H. Cleale Avere appointed to solicit for donations of land to induce the company to locate its terminus on Budd's Inlet. Society at the Capital city was revolutionized after the inauguration of President Grant. As many of the inhabitants of the small community were Federal employes, the new ap- pointments made many changes. At the County election in 1869 the full Republican ticket was elected, as follows: Councilman, J. Scammons; Representa- tives, L. A. Treen, W. Packwood ; Commissioners, G. A. Barnes, C. Crosby, S. Hodgdon ; Sheriff, Wm. Billings; Treasurer, B. THURSTON COUNTY 49 Bettman; Auditor, A. A. Philips; Probate Judge, D. R. Bigelow; School Superintendent, D. R. Bigelow ; Surveyor, F. W. Brown ; Coroner, C. Wood. Thurston County had increased her assessed valuation in the last year by $123,267 and was $911,129. The Commissioners appropriated $1000 for a bridge across the inlet to Tumwater. This amount was increased by private subscription to $32GG. The growth of the town now made an imperative demand for a definite location of streets and the Council so ordered. Cattle were restrained from running at large and a tax of $2.50 was put upon each dog. There was considerable building activity this year and sa'T mills were kept busy meeting the demand. The first bank building to be erected in the Territory of Washington was commenced this year by G. A. Barnes, who for several years conducted a banking business here. The Town Trustees this year were G. A. Barnes, F. Henry, S. W. Percival, R. Frost, J. M. Murphy ; S. W. Percival, Trea-,- urer; R. Lane, Clerk. Jacob Hoover was principal of the public school this year, assisted by Llary O'Neil. Mr. Hoover later pracl^ieed law, an.l became a wealthy capitalist of Spokane. The Federal census of 1870 showed a population of 120 J for Olympia and 2246 in the County. Tumwater contained 206. By way of comparison it may here be stated that at this time Seattle contained 1142, with 2164 inhabitants in King County. Olympia had a public school of 75 pupJs, taught ty two teachers; fully 75 more pupils were taught in private schools. March 1, 1870, the town paid the County $1333 for the public square, which the town had deeded to the County in the early days, when the County seat question was agitated. Al- though the deed then given was invalid this settlement was reached, and the amount paid to assist the County in building a Courthouse at the corner of Washington and Sixth Streets. At the Town election in April the following Trustees were elected: F. Henry, A. A. Phillips, B. Bettman, C. C. Hewitt, Levi Shelton. At the County election the following were chosen : Council- man, L. P. Smith ; Representatives, D. R. Bigelow, B. L. 50 HISTORICAL SKETCH Brewer, — Campbell ; Sheriff, Wm. Billings ; Auditor, A. A. Phil- lips; Commissioners, Wra. McLane, Ira Ward, Wm. James; Treasurer, L. G. Abbott ; Assessor, W. M. White ; Probate Judge, A. R. Elder; School Superintendent, D. R. Bigelow. C. Etheridge this year commenced operating a sash and door factory between Second and Third streets, near the West end of Swantown bridge. The prospects of the location of the Northern Pacific Railroad terminus at Olympia was the cause of considerable real estate activity in 1870. In April T. I. McKenny and Geo. Barnes platted the town site of Puget City, this County. Later the plat was vacated. C. B. Mann was chosen principal of the district school this year. A franchise was granted to the Washington Water Pipe Manufacturing Company to lay pipe and supply the inhabi- tants with water. Wm. H. Cushman was elected Town Clerk to fill a vacancy. The Barnes Hook & Ladder Company was organized to supplement the Fire Company. In September of this year, Olympia and vicinity was visited by the most violent earthquake ever experienced here before or since. The fact that the prevailing style of archi- tecture was one and two-story frame buildings saved immense damage. This year the citizens of Olympia experienced their first disappointment relative to the location of the Northern Pa- cific terminus, which it was now reported would be located on the Columbia River. A committee, headed by E. P. Ferry, was appointed to confer with the railroad officials as to the best terms on which railroad connection could be had at Olympia. Little was gained by the conference. In December, 1870, Marshall Blinn, C. H. Hale, A. J. Miller, James Pattison, E. Marsh, G. A. Barnes, W. H. Mitchell^ C. Crosby, J. M. Murphy and E. P. Ferry organized a Com- pany with a capital of $400,000 capital to construct a branch of the Northern Pacific Railroad. It petitioned for 1337 acres of the mud flats conditioned that the Des Chutes channel should be opened. It was the intention to obtain possession of these and offer them to the Northern Pacific Railroad Com- THURSTON COUNTY 51 pany on condition that their terminus be located on Budd's Inlet, but the petition did not receive favorable action by Congress. In 1871 the location of the Northern Pacific Railroad ter- minus was the paramount question. The Northern Pacific Railroad Company had been ap- prised of the effort to secure the tide lands and present them to the Railroad Company. General Sprague of the Company replied by sending blanks necessary for making the donation The Branch Railroad Company recommended that the citi- zen property owners on Budd's Inlet donate one-half their holdings to the Northern Pacific on condition that it would build and operate a railroad into Olympia before January 1, 1875, and locate the road before May 1, 1872. This most re- markable proposition did not meet with great favor with all classes, many feeling that if the Company desired to come here they would come anyway ; if not, no reasonable bonus- would be an inducement. Railroad contractors were working during the Summer in the Cowlitz Valley, and expected to have 25 miles built from Kalama b}^ October 2, and connection made with the Sound by 1872. By November, 1871, the road was within 15 miles of Olympia, and still the matter of terminus was an uncertainty. On Christmas day Olympia citizens experienced great relief when a communication was received over the signatures of Goodwin and Sprague by ]\Iarshal Blinn accepting the propo- sition of the Branch Railroad Company, stating that the Northern Pacific Company would comply with the first con- dition by causing a railroad to be located before May 1 next, connecting the Columbia river with a point on the navigable waters of Budd's Inlet. They also asked a right of way from Bush Prairie. This seemed to the expectant citizens of Olym- pia that Budd's Inlet was to be the Western terminus of the Northern Pacific Railroad. To many then living this seemed a realization of their fondest hopes which they had enter- tained since they emigrated here in the early '50 's. Their real estate holdings were to assume a value that meant to them a competence. And, indeed, on this vague promise real estate did go to fabulous values, but little changed hands. 52 HISTORICAL SKETCH Builciing in and about Olvmpia was reasonably active, and considerable progress was made along the line of general improvement. At Tumwater D. Barnhart had installed a liirniture factory, and Leonard & Cooper were also operating a sash and door factory at the same place. To add to the general tension of expectancy, the usual report of discovery of gold in the Black Hills became current. In December, Geo. A. Barnes, Ben Harned and A. H, Stelle were elected School Directors. N. Crosby Clerk. A farmers' organization was effected this j'ear for the purpose of the advancement of agricultural interests, though it was short lived. On the death of Wm. James, County Commissioner, G. W. French was chosen to fill the vacancy. In this year Mrs. Case and Miss Churchill, two Eastern ladies, leased the old Court House on Union and Washington Streets and started a Young Ladies' Seminary. During the Summer of 1871, a newspaper plant was brought from Port Townsend and the Puget Sound Courier Vv'as started. This was the organ of the Federal officeholders. Town Trustees this year : F. Henry, S. W. Percival, Joh^i M. Murphy, A. H. Steele. Mr. Boynton, assisted by Miss I\Iary O'Neil and IMary Post taught the public school. Owing to the still prevailing hope that Olympia would be a railroad terminus, the year 1872 opened up with much ac- tivity. Streets and bridges were improved, a fire alarm sys- tem installed; while building was active rents were very high. The fact that a man named Ira Bradley Thomas was in Olympia buying up land seemed significant. In fact, he had secured title to several thousand acres on the East side of the inlet. While still in pursuit of his business he died suddenly In this year occurred the revolt against the so-called Federal ring. Selucius Garfield, a man of splendid ability and a magnificent orator, on the Republican ticket, was defeated for Delegate to Congress by 0. B. McFaddeu, on the Peoples' ticket. The full People's Party County ticket was elected as fol- lows: Councilman, Wm. McLain ; Representatives, B. F. Yan- tis, Ira Ward, Prank Henry ; Auditor, A. A. Phillips ; Sheriff, THURSTON COUNTY 53 Wm. Billings; Treasurer, W. J. Grainger; Surveyor. D. R. B. Kenry; School Superintendent, C. A. Huntington; Pro- hate Judge, J. M. Lowe; Coroner, I. V. Mossman. A vote on the question for a State Constitution was de- feated, 54 to 141. The Burraeister building, on Third and Main, was built this year. At the municipal election the following officers were elected: Mayor, W. W. Miller; Councilmen— First Ward. A. J. Burr, B. Bettman ; Second Ward, M. Blinn, T. F. McElroy , Third Ward, J. S. Dobbins, D. S. B. Henry; A. A. Phillips, Clerk; R. W. Ryerson, Treasurer; A. R. Elder, Magistrate; J. J. Westbrook, Marshal. On December 14th, of this year, Olympia and vicinity was visited by a severe earthquake, resulting in little actual damage. As the year 1872 drew to a close it became evident, even to the most sanguine, that the Northern Pacific Railroad Com- pany was not going to keep faith with Olympia, but proposed to locate the terminus of its road at a point lower down on the Sound. As the time had arrived for some evidence of good faith, Marshal Blinn wrote to Messrs. Goodwin and Sprague, asking when the line would be located. They replied: "The line of railroad runs to the East side of Budd's Inlet to the Billings or Wylie donation claim, sections 25, 26, 35, 36, town- ship 19, range 2 West, and a point will be selected on one of these claims for a freight and passenger depot, where said line will terminate." This restored confidence for a time until it was evident the road was being continued through Yelm toward Tacoraa The following statement may serve to throw some light on the inside history of the location of the terminus of the first transcontinental line to reach the Northwest. Included in the directorate of the Northern Pacific Rail- road Company were men who composed the Lake Superior and Puget Sound Land Company. They were sufficiently strong in the railroad company to dictate its policy. The railroad company was not interested in town sites ; the land company was — ^so they had sent a man West to secure title to lands at the prospective terminus. That man was Ira 54 HISTORICAL SKETCH Bradley Thomas, before mentioned. After having secured title to large tracts on Budd's Inlet he died. Thus, consid- ering the time that would be consumed in probating the estate of ^Ir. Thomas, with the law's delays, this land was withdrawn from the market indefinitely. Time was all in all. The result was that in order to realize their financial expecta- tions the Lake Superior & Puget Sound Land Company se- cured lands a few miles from Old Tacoma. and went into the Northern Pacific directorate and located the terminus of the Northern Pacific Railroad. On what seeming insignificant circumstances do great things depend. Had Ira Bradley Thomas lived but even a short time longer, in all probability Olympia would have been the terminus of the Northern Pacific Railroad, and the site of the present City of Tacoma still a wilderness. ^ ^ 4S: :)(! ^ # :SJ: Thus, briefly sketched, is the history of Thurston County. First, as a part of the Territory of Oregon, and later an integral part of the fast-growing Territory of Washington. It was the intention of the compiler of this volume to trace merely the pioneer history of the County. The line of demark- ation between early history and the later was arbitrarily fixed by the Society of Thurston County Pioneers, which made eligi- ble those who had taken up residence in the County before 1872. Though the people who came to Washington Territory in the early 70's seem as "Che Chacos" to the pioneers of '49 or '50, yet the line as fixed by the Society seems a con- servative placing of time to mark the difference between old and new. The laying of the foundation, by a few sturdy pioneers, of a great commonwealth to be, who, after a life full of privation and hardship, were laid to rest in the soil of the new country, giving way to a young and sturdy race of new comers, no longer "pioneers" but "early settlers," until the year 1872 arrived, which closed the door, and all later ar- rivals must fall under the head of "Che Chacos." From 1873 to 1889, that period during which Washington remained a Territory, Olympia and Thurston County made slow progress. The location of a railroad terminus at Tacoma de- tracted greatly from the head of the Sound. Seattle made a THURSTON COUNTY 55 start and has experienced a phenomenal growth, which in a way, too, affected Olympia. However, since admission of the Territory as a State in 1889, Olympia and Thurston County has experienced a steady improvement. The ability to command some attention in Con- gress, has resulted in appropriations for the improvement of the harbor, which has always been a deterring influence. Notwithstanding frequent attempts to move the Capitol, it seems at last a fixture, the State's investments here preclud- ing the possibility of a change. But what is of greater im- portance, the difficulties of transportation in and out of Olympia have to a great extent been, or are being, overcome. The Northern Pacific, after years of neglect, saw a territory in the Southwest that could no longer be ignored and the Tacoma and Grays Harbor branch of that road resulted. At this writing the Oregon & Washington Kailway is making preparations to connect the Capital Cit}'' with their line, with further possibilities of transcontinental connection in the near future. Substantial fireproof buildings are taking the place of the old frames, paved streets are being actively extended and a spirit of enterprise has been the result of the advent of the new blood that is to take up the fight where the pioneer, after a hard fought battle, for which his successors delight to honor his memorv, laid down his burden and entered into his rest. 56 THUR3T0N COUNTY @0mtm0rfnrps ISAAC INGALLS STEVENS Isaac I. Stevens, the first Governor, as well as the mos: prominent man identified with the early history of Washing- ton, was born in a farm house belonging to his father, Isaac Stevens, at Marble Ridge, Massachusetts. He first saw the light of day March 25, 1818, and sprang from an honorable line of ancestry, one of whom, John Stevens, was among the original founders of Andover, Essex County, Massachusetts. Even from tender infancy the little I.^aac gave promise of more than ordinary mentality. Before his fifth year t le lad was sent to school and soon astonished his teacher with his lemarkable power of memory and his application and devotion to study. After his tenth year he attended Franklin Academy in North Andover, where he studied t.ie usual English branc.ies. But about this time Isaac decided to leave school for a time to enter the woolen mills owned by his uncle near Andover. At the end of a year spent in the weaving room he became so proficient in his work that he was able to manage four looms at a time, thus excelling the most experienced workmen in that department of the factory. Having reached the age of fifteen years the young Stevens entered Phillips Academy in Andover. Here, while leading his classes in his studies, he paid for his board and lodging by making the garden and doing the chores about the place of a citizen of that town. One of his school mates in describing Stevens' first ap- pearance at the academy said: "The door opened and there (quietly entered an insignificant appearing boy carrying in his arms a load of books nearly as large as himself. But the im- pression of insignificance vanished as soon as one regarded his o m < m I— I Q < O > o o en W K o h-l > h-l H CI W X w w W ;^ Q Pi W H > o o PIONEER REMINISCENCES 57 large head, earnest face and firm and fearless dark hazel eyes/' After a little over a year at this academy, through his excellent record for ability and scholarship, as well as the recommendations and efforts of his uncle, William Stevens, Isaac was appointed a cadet at West Point. Here he distinguished himself by rising to the head of his class in mathematics and during the entire four years' course so well did the young man bear himself that when the academic board came to review the standings of the memners of the class to award to each his proper grade it was found that Cadet Stevens stood at the head in every one of his studies. Upon graduation Stevens was promoted to be Second Lieutenant of Engineers and was ordered to proceed to Newport, R. I., to take part in the building of Fort Adams. At Newport the social life was much enjoyed by the young man, and it was while at a social gathering at this town that Lieutenant Stevens met the young lady who was afterwards to become his wife, Margaret Lyman Hazard. On July 1, 1840, Stevens received promotion to be First Lieutenant of the corps of engineers. His marriage to ]\Iiss Hazard occurred in September of the year following. Soon after his marriage Lieutenant Stevens was sent to Bedford to take charge of the repairs to the old fort there. And on June 9, 1842, a son M'as born to the young couple. This child was named Hazard. after the maternal grandfather. For the ensuing few years Lieutenant Stevens was in charge of engineering works at Portsmouth and later at Bucks- port, IMaine, and it was while engaged in this work that he i-eceived his orders for service in the Mexican war. Stevens' first work upon arriving at the seat of war was to seek out covered ways to allow the troops to pass to and from the bat- teries at Vera Cruz without loss from the enemies' fire. After taking this city by the U. S. soldiers, Stevens ac- companied the troops into the interior of ]Mexico and was made Adjutant of the Corps of Engineers. At the battle of Chapul- tepec a severe gunshot wound in the foot required his retiring from active service for the rest of the campaign. He was finally relieved and returned to the States. Again was he put in charge of military- works at various 58 THURSTON COUNTY places in ]Maine and New Hampshire, continuing here for the next five years. When the brevets were announced from the war depart- ment Lieutenant Stevens was brevetted Captain, August 2, 1847, for gallant and meritorious conduct in tlie battles of Contreras and Churubusco and ^lajor for gallant and meritor- ious conduct in the battle of Chapultepec. Major Stevens from now on for the following few years was engaged as assistant to Professor A. D. Boche, chief of the United States Coast survey. But in the Spring of 1853, President Franklin Pierce appointed Major Stevens Governor of the newly organized Territory of Washington. Save for a handful of settlers on the lower Columbia and on the shores of Puget Sound, and a few mining and trading posts in the interior, the whole vast region of Stevens' place of administration was unsettled and for the most part unex- plored by civilized man. It contained manj'^ thousand Indians who regarded the settlement of the territory by the white man with jealous eyes; the Indian title to the lands had not been extinguished and there were many troublous questions to be settled with the Hudson Bay Company, which still held its posts in the territory and claimed extensive rights as guaranteed by treaty. To govern a territory under these conditions would have appalled most men, but INIajor Stevens not only applied for the appointment as Governor, but also asked that he be placed in charge of the exploration of the most feasible route for the railroad from the Mississippi Kiver to the Pacific Coast. Con- gress had recently appropriated $150,000 for the explorative survey of the proposed railroad. When the appointment as Governor to Washington Terri- tory was confirmed. Major Stevens was 36 years of age and in the full prime and vigor of his manhood. Besides the stupen- dous task involved in the administration as chief executive in a new and unknown territory, with surroundings and experi- ences totally different from any he had met in previous ex- periences. Governor Stevens was also, by virtue of his appoint- ment, made Superintendent of Indian affairs in the West. Surely the reader must be impressed with the courage and mental strength exhibited by Isaac I. Stevens in undertaking these duties and responsibilities, in addition to the formidible PIONEER REMINISCENCES 59 undertaking of exploring a railroad route to the Pacific Coast, through a totally unknown wilderness. How ably he re- sponded to the demands laid upon him is a matter of history. Assembling an outfit at St. Paul, Minnesota, in which task Governor Stevens was called upon to overcome what to many would have been unsurmountable difficulties, the exploring party started for the far off Pacific Coast. A history of this famous exploring trip, compiled by the Governor's son, Hazard Stevens, from the diary kept by his illustrious father, reads like a romance of adventure, so many exciting experiences were encountered and so manj^ hardships and dangers suc- cessfully overcome. Arriving at the Columbia River, Governor Stevens fol- lowed the only route at that time to reach Olympia, the capital of the new Territory. Up the Cowlitz river by canoe, where the Indian crew had to progress foot by foot against the cur- rent of the flooded river, sometimes pulling the frail craft along by the overhanging bushes, then over a muddy trail by horse back, Stevens reached Olympia November 25, 1853, just five months and nineteen days since starting from St. Paul. He found waiting for him his new Territorial Secretary, Charles Mason; Edward Lander, Chief Justice; J. V. Clen- dennin, District Attorney; J. Patton Anderson, Marshal, and Simpson P. Moses, Collector of Customs. These officials had reached Olympia, coming via the Isth- mus to San Francisco, then by boat to Portland, and then up the Cowlitz River and over the trail. To quote from Hazard Stevens' "Life of Isaac I. Stevens": "It was indeed a wild country, untouched by civilization. A scanty white population numbering 3,965, were widely scat- tered over Western Washington and the Strait of Fuca. Among the settlers were Columbus Lancaster, on Lewis River; Seth Catlin, Dr. Nathanial Ostrander and the Huntingtons, on the Cowlitz; Alexander S. Abernethy, at Oak Point, and Judge William Strong at Cathalamet." The Governor's first act was to issue his proclamation for the election of a delegate to Congress and members of the first Territorial Legislature and summoning that body to meet in Olympia on the 28th of February, 1854. His next official act was to visit the Indian tribes around the Sound and to generally explore the waters of Puget Sound, 60 - THURSTON COUNTY Elliott Bay and the Straits, to learn of the general character of the harbors, etc. As this cruise Avas taken in an open sailboat, it conld hardly be regarded as a holiday excursion in that stormy season, and among the swift tides and fierce gales of the lower Sound. One of the objects accomplished on this cruise was the decision that the little settlement of Seattle was the logical terminus for the proposed transcontinental railroad. At the assembling of the Legislature, when Governor Stevens delivered his first message, after reviewing the natural resources of this territory, he recommended the adoption of a code of laws, the organization of the country east of the Cas- cades into counties, a school system with military training in the higher schools and the organization of the militia. The Legislature adopted all these resolutions with the exception of the one regarding the militia, which omission proved to be unfortunate, as it left the people defenseless when the Indian war broke out less than two years later. After the close of the Legislature Governor Stevens returned to Wash- ington, D. C, to make his report to the Department of the ex- ploring and engineering expedition, and also to urge upon Congress the claims of the new territory. Completing his work in the National Capitol, Governor and ]\Irs. Stevens, with their four children, the two youngest being only two and four years old, respectively, sailed from New York, September 20. 1854. en route for their far western home. The rough experiences of this refined and cultured family in coming up the CoAvlitz and over the trail and their bitter disappointment when beholding the capital city is graphically described in a letter written by Mrs. Stevens and reproducea in the historical sketch of Thurston County in the opening chapters of this volume. The Governor's family were installed in quarters consist- ing of two long, one-story buildings, one room wide, unplas- tered, but lined inside with cotton cloth. In the rear was a large yard extending to the beach. An Indian camp began at the corner of the yard. In the midst of these novel scenes and experiences the family soon began to feel at home and enjoy the western life. PIONEEK REMINISCENCES 61 The Governor's da.vs were now filled with strenuous labor, making treaties with the Indians, holding council with the Chiefs and endeavoring to cultivate their good will. A history of the various treaties entered into between Gov- ^^rnor Stevens and the Indian tribes, the councils held and the long, dangerous and fatiguing expeditions taken by the Gov- ernor, would more than fill the pages of this volume, conse- quently only a brief mention is all that space will alh)w. and that of the most important ones. Governor Stevens was in the Blackfoot country holding council with the assembled bands and had just taken up his homeward march when a messenger, dispatched by Acting Governor ]\Iason, reached him with the startling intelligence that all the great tribes of the upper Columbia country, includ- ing the Cayuses, Walla Wallas, Yakimas, Palouses, Umatillas. and all the Oregon Indian bands down to The Dalles, had broken out in open warfare. Stevens at once, and with incredible difficulty, hastened back to Washington, and after doing what he could to establish peace with the warring savages, undertook to reach Puget Sound by forced marches. This trip was taken in the dead of winter over and through deep snows in the mountains, fording icy rivers and with scant provision and no comforts. When Ol^inpia was finally reached he found the entire coimtry was overwhelmed. The settlers had fled for refuge to the small villages, with no resources of food or money. Starvation stared the pioneers in the face if prevented from planting and raising crops. There was also a deficiency of arms and ammunition. It was small wonder that the settlers were discouraged, and nothing kept many of them from leav- ing the country but their inability to get away. The Governor, by proclamation, raised 1,000 volunteers, called upon the people to build block houses and proceed Vi^ith tilling the soil. He required all Indians on the eastern side of the Sound to move into reservations, sent agents to Port- land, San Francisco and Victoria with urgent appeals for arms, ammunition and supplies. He issued territorial certifi- cates of indebtedness to pay the volunteers, he freely resorted to impressment of teams, supplies, etc., wherever necessarj% and while he appealed to the patriotism and good feeling of th(; 62 THURSTON COUNTY volunteers he enforced strict discipline and punished miscon- duct. The people responded to the Governor's appeal with true American spirit and patriotism. The Governor's policy during the war which folloAved was an aggressive one. His volunteers pursued the bands of In- dians, routing them and keeping them from uniting with other bands. The history of the Indian war of 1855-56 is not within the scope of this work, but vivid pen pictures of individual ex- periences are given from time to time in the reminiscences of the pioneers interviewed by the compiler. At the close of the war Governor Stevens disbanded the volunteers and disposed of the animals, equipment and supplies on hand at public auc- tion- Owing to the large number captured there were more animals sold at the several auctions than the entire number purchased for the volunteer service. The sales of property netted more than $150,000. As the expenses of the volunteers had been paid in scrip the sales were made for scrip and many of the settler volunteers were glad to purchase stock, wagons and supplies in that way, although scrip money depreciated but little below par value. Owing to the discouraging condition of the territory after the Indian war and owing to the stand taken by the agents of the Hudson Bay Company, Governor Stevens was compelled at this time to issue a proclamation of martial law. This called for considerable censure from the enemies of the young Gov- ernor, but at a mass meeting held at the block house in the capital city, the course of the executive was fully endorsed with but 12 dissenting votes. Judge B. F. Yantis presided at this mass meeting and J. W. Goodell acted as secretary. During the time of the Indian trouble the Stevens family remained in Olympia, the children attending the public school, presided over by Rev. George F. Whitworth and his wife. Upon the return of peace the Governor began the con- struction of a home on the block of land he had purchased soon after his arrival in Olympia, which building is standing to this day, still in the possession of the son. Hazard Stevens. Upon completion of the house. Governor and ]\Irs. Stevens gave a house warming, to which were invited the members of the Legislature, and all the townspeople. A description of this first Governor's reception to be held in Washington, is given PIONEER REMINISCENCES 65 in the reminiscences contributed by Mrs. J. G. Parker. The Governor, soon after his arrival in the West, adopted the garb of the country, slouch hat, woolen shirt and heavy ridin" boots — a garb suitable for one constantly undertaking Jong and arduous journeys horseback and by canoe. In 1857 Stevens was elected Delegate to Congress, and in the Fall of that year resigned as Governor of Washington, re- turning with his family to the National Capital by way of Panama. Congress adjourning, the Stevens family again returned to their Olympia home, where they lived in peace and hajjpi- ness until Stevens was again elected for a second term as Congressman. At this second term the Governor devoted his best ener- gies to securing payment of the Indian war debt. He was suc- cessful in securing good appropriations for military roads be- tween Fort Benton and Walla Walla and between, Steilacoom and Vancouver, secured $4500 for a boundary survey between Oregon and Washington, $95,000 for the Indian service, and also secured a new land office and district for the southern part of the territory. The M^ar shadow was now hovering over the land and Stevens, upon his return to Washington, was instrumental in raising a company in Olympia, known as the Puget Sound Rifles, of which company he was elected Captain. Stevens now engaged in waging the third campaign for election as Delegate to Congress, in which he was opposed by Selucius Garfielde, but before the election was held, news of the attack on Fort Sumter reached the Pacific Coast. Governor Stevens at once withdrew his name as candidate for re-election to tender his service to his country. Here properly ends the life story of Isaac Ingalls Stevens as connected with the early history of Washington. A record of his military career and the soldier's death at the battle of Chantilly belong by rights to the historian of the Civil War. General Stevens fell in battle at the moment of victory. He had grasped the colors from a dying standard bearer, and was charging to the front, cheering to encourage his men, when the fatal shot found its mark. As he lay in death his hand grasped the flag staff, with the colors, for which the noble life had been freely given, resting upon his head and shoulders. 64 THURSTON COUNTV A brief resume of the results achieved by Governor Stevens' seven years management of the affairs of the new territory show that he had made exploration of the northern, route for a transcontinental railroad, had made treaties with 30,000 Indians, had extiugaiished Indian titles to many thous- ands of acres of Washington land, established peace among hereditary enemies over a larger area than New England and the Middle States, and by waging an aggressive warfare against the savage foe had saved the settlements from extinction. In addition to this Stevens took such a fimi stand against British aggression at the time the controversy over possession of the San Juan Islands arose that this valuable group was saved to the United States. At the end of the war he disbanded the volunteers and adjusted financial claims to the satisfaction of the majority. Over three quarters of a million dollars were disbursed for the government, all accounts for which were found to be correct. In his career in Congress he secured the ratification of his Indian treaties, payment of the Indian war debt, the opening: of the interior to settlement and- the punishment of Indian murderers'. <1^ ELISHA P. FKRRY SELUCIUS GARFIEI^DE EI.WOOD EVANS JAMES BII^ES FOUR MASONIC PAST GRAND MASTERS PIONEER REMINISCENCES 65 ELISHA P. FERRY Elisha P. Ferry, the first Governor of the State of Wash- ington, and Territorial Governor for two consecutive terms beginning with April, 1872, is remembered among the pioneers as the greatest of all Governors, I. I. Stevens alone excepted. During his many years' residence in Olympia Governor Ferry was acknowledged to have been a man of good business ability, prudent, tactful, painstaking, in thinking as well as in action, possessed of rare good judgment and great firmness of char- acter, as well as a good lawyer. He possessed all the acquire- ments as well as the natural qualities that go toward making a good executive. A native of Michigan, E. P. Ferry studied law there and later in Fort Wayne, Indiana, being admitted to the bar in 1845 at the age of 20. His first start in life after his gradua- tion was made in Waukegan, Illinois, where he practised law until 1869. He was first Mayor of this town, twice Presidential Elector, a member of the Constitutional Convention of 1861 and afterwards a Bank Commissioner. When the Civil war began, Ferry served for a time as As- sistant Adjutant General and helped materially in organizing and equipping many of the early Illinois regiments and getting them ready for the field. While engaged in this service he be- came acquainted with U. S. Grant, which acquaintance soon ripened into friendship, and after Grant became President he appointed Ferry Surveyor General of the rapidly developing Territory of Washington. This appointment was made in 1869, and Ferry brought his family to Olympia, which city they regarded as their home until the removal of Governor Ferry to Seattle a few years before his death. In 1872 President Grant appointed Mr. Ferry Territorial Governor, and at the expiration of that four-year term re- appointed him to the same position. At the expiration of eight years as territorial executive Governor Ferry began the ce THURSTOX COUNTY practise of law in Seattle, continning- until the admission of Washington into statehood, when he was elected Governor by an overwhelming- vote of the people. Governor Ferry returned to Seattle, but was claimed by death within a few years after the end of his term. Hls widow made her home witJi their daughter, Mrs. John Leary. until the past few years, when she. too. passed away. Besides ^Irs. Leary, there are remaining of the Ferry familv. Pierre and James Ferrv. PIONEER REirrXISCENCES «T SAMUEL L. CRAWFORD My father. Ronald C. Crawford, and my mother. Elizabeth Jane Moore, came to Oregon in 1S47. my father from New York, and my mother from Illinois. Father's elder brother Medonim. was of the immigration of 1842. and my maternal grandfather, Robert iloore. was of the Peoria expedition of iS40. and both were members of the Champogue meeting, where the provisional government of Oregon was formed, my grandfather being Chairman of the Committee on Reso- lutions, and drafted the organic law which, when adopted by the convention, became the law of the provisional government of the territory of Oregon, or more particularly what was called the Oregon country*. Mother was a little girl of 10 years of age when she reached her home in the West and the lad who afterwards became my father, ten years older. In the course of time the young couple became acquainted and were married, seven children having been bom to them. Only five of these children are still living. I. Samuel L.. being the second chUd. My early youth was .spent in Walla Walla. Oregon City and Salem, in all of which towns I attended school. When while quite a young lad. and still living with my parents. I attended school in OK^mpia. My teacher here was the late Professor L. P. Venen. who. at that time, was conducting a private school in Olympia. Then I went to the public schools of the town, and enjoyed the companionship of lads and lassies who, many of them, have become among the prominent men and women of the now prosperous State of Washington. Among those whom I am able to recall at this writing are: Levi Shelton, now a prominent citizen of Tacoma; Cynthia Shelton, who afterwards became the wife of P. B. Van Trump, who with Hazard Stevens, made the first complete ascent of Mt. Rainier in ISTO; Clarence W. Coulter, now prominently connected with Seattle bu-siness affairs : Bradford W. Davis. 68 THURSTON COUNTY now with the railroad mail service ; Anna Pullen, afterwards ]\Irs. Matthew A. Kelly. i\Ir. Kelly was formerly a prominent druggist of Seattle. George E. Blankenship. who took up the printing business, and has stayed on the old stamping ground , Fannie Yantis. who afterwards married Capt. J. J. Gilbert, prominent in the Coast and Geodetic Survey ; Anna Stevens. who afterwards became the wife of the Hon. John F. Gowey, who was connected with the United States land office in Olympia and later was made minister to China, whei^e he was residing at the time of his death, in the early part of the present century ; S. C. Woodruff, Superintendent of the Hos- pital for Defective Youth at Medical Lake ; Georgia Percival. now the widow of the late T. N. Ford, at one time Treasurer of the Territory of Washington ; her brother, Samuel M. Per- cival, being until recently connected with the state road bu- reau and whose wife, Druzie Percival, is well known in all the Sound cities as a musical composer of more than ordinary talent; Francis A. Treen, who afterwards developed a beau- tiful tenor voice, with which he gave much pleasure to his friends and acquaintances for many years; Emma Clark, who afterwards married her teacher, the late L. P. Venen ; Josie Clark, afterwards Mrs. Dellie Woodard ; Nellie Parker, now Mrs. Herbert McMicken, and many others whose names are now but a dim and cherished memory. After graduating from marbles in the field of amusements, at which game I was proficient and kept my pockets well filled with the winnings from the other boys when we played "for keeps," base ball demanded my attention for several years. In our team were Clarence Bagley, L. A. Treen, Cal, Jim and Frank jMcFadden and many other Olympians. In September, 1871, I entered the office of the Washington Standard, published by John Miller Murphy, as "devil," to learn the printer's trade. There I worked until 1875, when I left the office to accept the position of assistant Clerk in the Lower House of the Legislative Assembly, of which my father was a member from Lewis CouQty. At the expiration of the term of the Legislature I worked for Clarence Bagley, who was at that time public printer. When the public work was finished I went to work for Francis Cook, at that time publisher of the Morning Echo. Cook had » PIONEER REMINISCENCES 69 chicken ranch on a place called Hardserabble, in Mason County. The skunks were numerous and detracted from the financial returns of the chicken ranch, and as he found it difficult to be at both places at once he arranged with me to run the paper so he could devote his energies to the chickens. The paper could only afford one salary and that, of course, to go to me, and I was left to rustle my own assistance as best I could. Now, I developed a regular Tom Sawyer genius for work- ing my boon companions, and with such jolly spirits as Harry K. Struve, Ren Patterson, Yakima Jimmie and Peter Stanup, I managed to get along very well. The work was rather strenuous, as I commenced rustling news early in the marning. wrote up the paper in the late forenoons and early afternoons, then helped the boys set the type, and in the evening worked off the forms, and finally distributed the paper throughout the city myself, getting to my bed (which was located in the banking house of George Barnes & Co.) about two o'clock in the morning, after eating up everything in the way of fruit and cake that Mr. Barnes had remaining from his lunch at noonday. During the summer of this year I arrived at my majority. Mr. Cook, who had visited the paper from his chicken ranch, had inserted an item to the effect that on June 22 the Echo man would be 2]. Imagine my surprise on reaching the office that morning to find a table loaded down with all sorts of presents. My old friend and Sunday school teacher, the Rev. John R. Thompson, had sent me a handsome copy of Bunyan'-^ Pilgrim's Progress, George A. Barnes a copy of Hill's Business Forms, and a number of other books from Francis H. Cook snd other friends. Mr. and ]\Irs. L. A. Treen, then living in Olympia, sent me a can of milk, ]Mrs. T. M. Reed, wife of the lamented Hon. Thomas Reed, the well remembered and loved pioneer, sent me a large fruit cake, all decorated with frosted flowers, together with this little note : "To the Echo man of twenty-one This little token's offered. May the joys of life, like Summer sun. E'er shine on Sammy Crawford." I still cherish this kindly token from Mrs. Reed, and I am 70 THURSTON COUNTY 8orry that both she and her husband have passed to the Great Beyond. While these joyous days, fraught with hard work but plenty of fun, were passing in Olympia, things were also do- ing in Seattle. While a Clerk in the 1875 Legislature the whole assembly of Legislators made a trip to Steilacoom and to Seattle, the latter place to investigate the needs of the TJni- versity. The "fast and commodious" steamer, the Zephyr, had been chartered for that junket, and was to leave Olympia at 7 :30 in the morning, stopping first at Steilacoom. When I got up that morning I found the steamer had left — so was L While wondering what I was to do, I met Bob Abrams and several other members of the Legislature, who were in my predicament also. We rushed to interview Ed. Harmon, a well remembered Jehu of Olympia, and after telling him of our troubles, arranged with him to beat the steamer to Steila- coom. He agreed to forfeit a considerable consideration if he failed. But he didn't fail. We came on from Steilacoom to Seattle with the rest of the bunch — mv first visit to the Queen City. The citizens gave a dance that evening in honor of the visiting Legislature in Yesler's Hall. Bailey Gatzert was mayor. All the old settlers, including Mr. and Mrs. Yesler, turned out. Seattle then had a population of 1500, but they vrere all alive and kicking. There was not hotel accommoda- tions enough to care for the visitors, and the members and their wives were entertained at the homes of the private citizens. Father and mother were entertained by Mr. and Mrs. L. N. Robbins, whose beautiful home then stood on the block directly south of the late old Hotel Rainier. I had been invited to spend the night with my boyhood friend, George E. Blankenship, then employed on The Dis- patch, by Brown & Bell, who roomed at the house of M. A. Kelly on Third and Seneca Streets. On reaching his room some time after midnight, we found the bed occupied by Ed. Pullen, a brother of ]\Irs. Kelly, who had "dropped in unexpectedly." We returned down town and after visiting the various hotels and not finding accommodations, decided to spend the re- mainder of the night on the hay stored in the open warehouse at the end of Yesler's wharf. We found this hay literally PIONEER REMINISCENCES 71 covered with sleeping men, and after amusing ourselves n while tying some of them hand and foot with heaving lines, we again started up town, George to seek his rest on a pile of paper in the office and I to fare much better. During the day my friend, the late Howard W. Lewis, had told me his room was the third door on the left hand side from the head of the stairs in the Wyckoff Honse, and I could sleep with him. About two o'clock in the morning those kind words recnrred to me very prominently and going to the Wyckoff House, which stood on the present site of the Alaska building, 1 climbed the stairs, opened the third door on the left, and found my friend sleeping in a spacious bed, and there ended my first night in Seattle. During this brief visit I was so impressed with the business enterprise of Seattle, although it was then a smaller town than Olympia, that I told my mother I would venture my fortunes here at the first opportunity. This chance came the following year. The Daily Intelligencer was launched on the first day of June, 1876, by the late David Higgins. I had gained some reputation as a pressman in Olympia, and as Mr. Higgins had introduced a power press in his establish- ment, he wrote and offered me charge of his press room, to- gether with what composition I could do when not occupied about the press. As the salary offered was satisfactory, I ac- cepted the offer, and on the 2-4th of June I left Oiympia and took up my work on the Intelligencer the following morning. After I had boarded the steamer Alida at Olympia, Mr. Cook sent two of the Milroy boys to the wharf to induce me to de- fer my trip. I hid away to avoid temptation till after the steamer had left the wharf, and there was never thereafter an issue of the Morning Echo published. Mr. Cook moved his plant to New Tacoma and published the Tacoma Herald for some time, after which he again moved his plant to Spokane Falls, where he founded the Spokane Chronicle. The office of the Intelligencer at this time was in a two story and basement wooden building belonging to H. L. Yesler, on First Avenue, at the foot of Cherry street. The First Pres- byterian church, corner of Third and Madison Streets, had recently been completed and was staggering under a load of debt and was heavily mortgaged. My old friend. Rev. John 72 THURSTON COUNTY R. Thompson, of Ol.ympia, ont of the bigness of his heart and his love for the Christian organization with which he was allied, had taken it upon himself to relieve the church of this burden, and he travelled from Portland to Seattle, soliciting funds from his personal friends, wiiom he numbered by the hundreds. Arriving at Seattle he told me of his mission, and asked me what I was willing to do. I told him I had just finished my tirst week's w^ork in this town and when I got my pay I would settle my board bill and give what was left to help him in his cause. Rev. Thompson, years afterwards, accompanied the First Washington Volunteers to the Philippines as Chaplain of the regiment. He was dearly beloved by all the brave soldier boys, but was stricken with the fever prevalent in that country, and did not live to return to his adopted State of Washington, which he so dearly loved. When I came to Seattle I brought a baseball and bat with me and at odd times would go out on what was then known as Occidental Square and pass the ball around. I soon found a number of congenial spirits, but no organization of a nine was effected for several weeks. One day a challenge appeared in a paper from an organization in Newcastle, offering to play any nine in King County, Seattle preferred, on any day in the future, on any grounds selected by the challenged team. I called this to the attention of my friends of Occidental Square, who arranged for some practice games on the old University grounds, and we found we could play some ball. They au- thorized me to accept the challenge, on behalf of the Alki Base Ball Club of Seattle. The game was played two weeks from the following Saturday. I do not remember the score, but I do remember that no one of the challenging team ever got be- yond second base. The Alkis at once sprung into prominence, and for years met all comers from Olympia to Victoria. In those days amateur ball was played exclusively, and each community had its team made up of its young citizenship, and took great pride in their performances and success. It was through baseball that I went from the mechanical to the news department of the Intelligencer. The Alkis had been to Vic- toria on the Queen's birthday of, I think, 1878, and w'on a great victory over the famous Amity team of that City. On our re- PIONEER REMINISCENCES 73 turn I asked the managing editor if they had arranged for a report of the game. He said, in apparent great distress, that the matter had been overlooked and asked me who he could get to write the story. I told him I didn't know. "Can you do it?" he asked. "I can try," I answered. So well pleased, apparently, was he with my brief account of the 'game, that he sent for me the next morning and requested me to take charge of the local page of the paper. I remained in that de- partment during the remainder of my career on the paper, and its successor, the Post-Intelligencer, extending over a period of about 13 years. A couple of years after my connection with the Intelli- gencer Thaddeus Hanford, a young college man, and brother of Judge C. H. Hanford, bought a half interest in the paper and assumed its editorial control, and later acquired the Hig- gins interest. Soon afterwards I induced Mr. Thomas W. Prosch, an experienced newspaper man of Olympia, Tacoma and Seattle, to buy a half interest in the paper. He and Han- ford were so unlike in their tastes and ideas and manner of operating a daily publication, that they decided to agree to disagree almost immediately and Hanford agreed to sell his interest in the paper for $5000. Prosch came to me to buy it. "But," said I, "I have only $960; where am I to get the balance of the purchase price?" He answered. "I think if you rustle around a little, you can borrow it. I will let you have, on your note, $540, to be paid out of the earnings of the paper. This leaves you only $3500 to borrow." I went to Judge Orange Jacobs, who had just returned from a term as Delegate to Congress, and told him of my wants, and to my joyous surprise, he lent me the money, taking as security my stock in the paper secured by an insurance policy on the plant. I paid him the then going rate of interest, IVij per cent, a month, and paid 10 per cent premium on the fire in- surance policy to secure him. By hard work and careful man- agement I succeeded in discharging all my debts, principal and interest, besides a lot of indebtedness against the paper, some $3000, for white paper and telegraphic services, of which neither Mr. Prosch nor I knew anything at the time of our purchase, within two years. In 1882 the Intelligencer was consolidated with the Post, 74 THURSTON COUNTY a daily, owned by John Leary and George W. Harris, but which was proving a losing venture. This was the beginning of the long and glorious career in the newspaper field of the Post-Intelligencer. About this time trouble arose with tht; Printers' Union, and I was unwilling to. accede to terras de- manded by this body of workmen, so sold my interest in the P.-I. to Mr. Prosch and became an employe on the paper. On the 30th day of October, 1888, I finally severed my connection with the Post-Intelligencer, to enter the real estate business in partnership with ]\Ir. Charles F. Conover, who had been associated with me on the paper for a couple of years previously. Owing to our wide acquaintance, growing out of our long connection with the paper, our new venture prospered almost from the start. We opened an office in the new Yesler block, on Yesler Avenue. That evening we gave a banquet to our late associates on the paper, the members of the edi- torial, news and business staff, and it was some banquet, too. It was given at the Occidental, which was on the site of the present Hotel Seattle. We busied ourselves during the next 25 days in listing properties and publishing advertisements and announcements. By that time our capital was pretty, well exhausted, and we had not taken in a cent. On the 27th a stranger came to the office to have some notary work done, and we charged him a dollar. We put that dollar in an envelope, marked it our first dollar, locked it in the safe and have the identical coin to this day. The next day we sold 11 lots and eight houses to the late Ursula Wyckoff for $20,000. Her son, J. V. Wyckoff, still owns four of the lots, valued at over $120,000. From that time on business was quite active and at the expiration of our first year our commissions amounted to upwards of $50,000. In the summer of 1889, we placed the Renton addi- tion on the market for Capt. W. H. Renton, of Port Blakely, and sold fifteen lots the first day at prices ranging from $700 to $1,000 each. The next day the great Seattle fire took place, and burned our office, together with the greater part of the business por- tion of Seattle. I was in Port Blakely when I was told that Seattle was burning, and induced the captain of the steamer Success to leave a half hour earlier than schedule time for PIONEER REMINISCENCES 75 home. Frye's Opera House was burning when I got Seattle on the wire at Blakely. When I reached our office I was mad to find all of our furniture piled out on the sidewalk in front of the Yesler building. I demanded to know why it was not hauled to safety, and was told of the impossibility of getting teams. I rushed across the street where was the owner of teams and who had for years expressed the warmest friend- ship for me. But he said he could do nothing for us. I was very angry and went on down to Yesler 's wharf, where I found a man unloading brick. I hired him for $5 to go with me to move my furniture. While standing in the wagon with him, directing where to drive, and when we left the wharf excited men began rushing up to my driver and began shout- ing, "$50 a load, $75 a load, $100 a load," etc. The man asked me what they meant and I told him to drive on, they were all crazy. We rushed the furniture onto the wagon and J directed the man where to drive. Then I rushed to the Post- Intelligencer office, where I met the business manager and asked him if the bound files of the paper had been saved. He said they had not and would not be, as no effort would be made to save them. I notified him that I would undertake the task and would brook no interference. The fire was then burning the building between Cherry Street and Yesler Avenue. Unaided, I carried those files, four volumes at a time, up to Third and James and placed them in the custody of Mrs. Bailey Gatzert. The next day I met Mr. Hunt and asked him if he had saved his files. He replied that they had been burned with the office, and that no money could reimburse him for their loss. I then told him I had saved them for him and gave him an order on Mrs. Gatzert for their return. I judge the files which I saved of daily, weekly and tri-weekly from the beginning of the paper up to that time weighed in the neigh- borhood of a ton and a half and they were almost worth their weight in gold. The paper afterwards published the fact that the files had been saved and gave me due credit for their preservation. The next morning the paper was published in a much condensed form and contained but two advertisements — one announcing ■ the change of location of the Puget Sound National Bank and the other notifying the public that Craw- ford & Conover had temporarily moved their real estate of- 76 THURSTON COUNTY fice to 615 Union Street. A couple of days later my mother sent me word that if were going to continue to advertise our office at her home she wanted me to send some one there to show property, as customers were constantly calling and she knew nothing about the real estate business. The firm of Crawford & Conover recently celebrated their 25th anniversary in business by moving into spacious quar- ters in our own building near the corner of Third and Pine. In a book descriptive of the thriving City of Seattle and the rapidly developing State of Washington, which we published for public distribution at an expense of $15,000, entitled, "Washington, the Evergreen State, and Seattle, Its Metrop- olis," we gave this commonwealth the soubriquet of "Ever- green State," which has since been adopted as Washington's universal and most appropiate name." Mr. Crawford has always been a public spirited man and has performed many acts of kindness and benevolence, which has made his name entitled to honorable mention among the list of philanthropists of the State of Washington. His enter- prise of collecting funds for the erection of the monument over the last resting place of the late Princess Angeline was a praiseworthy undertaking and one which gave ]\Ir. Crawford much satisfaction. Angeline and Crawford had for years been close tillicums, the white man frequently calling on the prin- cess to be sure she was not suffering for the necessities of life. During her latter years, after she was unable to help herself, many a timely gift of money or provisions were sent by the kindly man. When the weight of years was heavy upon Angeline and it was evident she would soon join her father. Chief Seattle, in the Happy Hunting Ground, Mr. Crawford asked her where she wished to take her long sleep, in the white man's graveyard or beside her father's remains. "Oh, let me be buried with my white tillicums, who have been so good to me!" and her wish was respected. Mr. Crawford started a movement among the children of Seattle to raise a fund for the erection of a monument by 10 cent contributions. The children responded gladl}', al- though the promoter of the scheme had to supply part of the expense from his own pocket. Granite from the mountain of that name in the Cascades, was employed in the handsome PIONEER REMINISCENCES 77 and appropriate monument which marks the resting place oi' the Princess Angeline, and Mr. Crawford tells that even to this day her grave is covered with bouquets of daisies and other common flowers, sometimes tied with white twine string, placed there by childish hands whose owners feel a personal interest in the spot because they had helped to build the monument. For several years after Mr. Crawford had retired from active newspaper work the itch remained with him and a column of "Reminiscences" contributed to the Sunday edi- tion of the Post-Intelligencer, was one of the features of that l>aper. When Mr. Crawford had been writing these reminis- cences for several years, Mrs. Crawfod collected all her hus- band's writings in a large scrapbook and presented it to him as a valentine present. The columns of this scrapbook are replete with interesting and amusing incidents of pioneer his- tory, not only of Seattle, where Mr. Crawford has spent the greater number of years of his majority, but also of Olympia. The compiler of this book spent a most delightful evening skimming over Mr. Crawford's scrap book and listening to the author of the sketches elaborate on the printed stories and relate the circumstances w^hich gave rise to a particular event. Such a bewildering richness of material was offered the com- piler that it was difficult to select a limited number of the most typical sketches. But among those which interested the writer most were the following: During the Republican campaign of 1869 Selueius Gar- fielde was a candidate for Representative to Congress. In order to secure his election I\Ir. Garfielde, as is the custom to this day, made many pre-election promises. Candidates for office seem to have been as plentiful in those good old days as they are at this later day. Came the election and the men who had been promised a friendly word in high places worked tooth and nail for Mr. Garfielde 's election, with the result that he was winner by a good majority. Rejoicing, the candidates who had pinned their faith to the Congressional Delegate, hur- ried to bring him enough endorsements and testimonials of their peculiar fitness for political jobs to which they aspired, to stuff a good-sized trunk to bursting. Garfielde suavely accepted all the papers and with smiles and promises to see 1i THURSTON COUNTY the powers on behalf of his Washington Territory friends as soon as he arrived in the National capitol. It took a long time in those days to make the trip to Washington, D. C, but the Olympia politicians awaited w^ord from their political sponsor xvith what patience they might. Days rolled into weeks and then months rolled over the men who were impatient to be- gin on their official duties — also their official salaries. Letters were sent Congressman Garfielde, but no answer was received. Finally, quite desperate, a telegram was sent Garfielde de- manding to know why the appointments were not forthcoming "Trunk and all endorsements lost!" was the answer wired Ijack. Mr. Garfielde had found, as do Western Congressmen ever, that when they arrive in Washington, D. C, keeping pre- election promises are not always possible. The town wit, but whether that was Francis Henry or Fred Eltze is a disputed question, drew a caricature of a mammoth trunk flying through the air and in this trunk, with gi^otesque expressions on their faces, which, although caricatured most fantistically, were yet plainly recognizable, were pictured the disappointed politi- cians. Although that caricature was made almost 45 years Kgo many of the old timers, on being shown the photograph which John Yantis made of the drawing, recognize their friends and smile over the remembrance of Mr. Garfielde 's lost trunk. There were L. P. Beach, Randall Hewitt, Cherokee Smith, Judge Dennison, Rev. Whitworth, Judge Struve, of Vancouver; Elwood Evans. W. W. Miller, A. R. Elder and Hon. P. D, Moore — the latter perfectly recognizable to the friends of the present day. Struve 's feet were sticking out the side of the trunk, a reference to his large extremities. In fact, the most characteristic feature of each of the men pictured in the trunk was prominently brought out and enlarged on. During a later and still more famous campaign between Seiucius Garfielde and Hon. Obadiah B. McFadden for election as Delegate to Congress in the year of 1872, Mr. Francis Henry contributed several columns of his brilliant writings each week to the Washington Standard, under the head of "Chronicles." In these contributions the most prominent men were dubbed titles wdiich, owing either to their fitness, or the pleasing allit- eration of the words, clung to their recipients, in many in- stances, to the day of their death. As for example: Judge PIONEER REMINISCENCES 7> 3IcFadden, "Obadiah, The Faithful"; Garfielde. '-^ehicins the Babbler"; B. F. Dennison. *" Benjamin the Stiff'": T. ^L Reed. "Thomas the Good"; E. P. Ferry, "Elisha the Prophet"; S. Coulter. "Samuel the Smiler"; C, B. Bagiey, "Clarence the Amorous"; Rev. John R. Thompson. "John the Joeky"; Mar- shal Blinn. "Marshal the Headstrong." When Mr. Crawford was still serving his apprenticeship of printer on the- Washington Standard, the proprietor. ]\Ir. John ^Miller ]\Iurphy. was a candidate for the office of Terri- torial Auditor. Mr. ]Miller was opposed by the Hon. Jos. Kunn of Port To^^Tisend, The latter man being a member of the Legislature of 1873. there was occasion to put his name in type many times in each issue of the Standard during the time the Legislature was in session. Murphy, holding his grudge against his opponent, told young Crawford never to allow Kuhn's name to appear in the paper correctly spelled. The ingenuity with which the printer carried out the commands of his superior are worthy of preservation: "Cun," "Coon." "Cune," "Kun," "Kune," "Koon," "Kunne." "Keun." "Khunne." and "Keunn" were among the variations Crav*'- ford managed to ring on the name "Kuhn." While working on the daily Echo in OhTnpia I had as an apprentice an Indian boy named Peter C. Stanup, son of Jonas Stanup sub-chief of the Puyallnp Indians. Unusually bright and well educated, young Stanup had been converted to the Christian faith and had studied theol^>g^ find preached to the Indians for six or seven years. After graduating from the newspaper business Stanup studied law and became verj' able in that profession. About this time the Government gi'anted the Puyallup Indians their land in several- ty and Peter's holdings were estimated to be worth from $50,000 to $60,000. Peter, while working for the development of the reserva- tion, against the wishes of the more ignorant Indians of his tribe, was thrown off a foot log into the Puyallup river and drowned. During the time the late lamented John H. McGraw was a candidate on the Republican ticket for Governor of the State he Avas bitterly opposed by the Taeoma papers and it looked as if he would not be able to carry a single precinct in Pierce 80 THURSTON COUNTY County. In talking over the matter, he asked me if I thought there was any chance for him to carry even one precinct in that County. I told McGraw and Mr. L. S. Hunt that if we could enlist Stauup's services we might carry the reservation precinct. Stanup was sent for but when he arrived he told us that a strong feeling had been worked up against McGraw in all of Pierce County owing to a plank in the Republican platform favoring construction of the Lake Washington canal. How- ever, if I was willing to give the Indians a feast the night be- fore election and a talk after the feast and have U. S. officer?; at the polling booths so that the boys would not be interfered Avith by thugs from the town we might carry the precinct for McGraw. We promised Stanup all this and fulfilled our promises. When the votes were counted after the election Peter wired, "We carried the precinct for McGraw by a major- ity of one." Peter was invited to Seattle and was an honored guest at Mr. Hunt's office while the State returns were being received. These returns showed McGraw had won by a handsome majority all over the State. o ^ o ^ ^ =^ Pi = =« o ^ K 0-S :2§ fe U o o PIONEER REMINISCENCES 81 D. C BEATTY David Crane Beatty and his wife, Mary Thompson Beatty, have made Olympia their home for almost 65 years. Some- times venturing their fortunes in other places, sometimes farm- ing in the County near, once leaving Washington entirely, but always coming back to the scene of their youthful prime and vigor, and now as the shadows gather and the sun of their lives sinks low in the West, their only hope or thought is to take their final rest near the place that has spelled home to this- devoted couple for well over the half century mark. Mr. Beatty first saw the light of day in Champaign County, Ohio, the year of his birth being 1828. When nine years of age his parent's took their eleven children and went to Illinois, where they settled for a good many years. Here the young David grew to manhood and learned the trade of cabinet making. 'He was of rather delicate health, however, and realized that a complete change of climate was advisable, so decided to take the famous advise and "Go West." The start was made from New York on December 16, 1852. The young man took passage on the old steamer Brother Jonathan to Panama. One of the excitments of the trip was the almost daily occurrence of fire on the boat. Only the oldest and most unseaworthy of w^ater craft was then used to bring those foolhardy enough to seek what was considered an imaginary fortune in the almost unknown West. From San Francisco Mr. Beatty came on to Portland, Oregon, his steamer this time being the Fremont, well re- membered by pioneer emigrants. Portland was then a village, in the woods on the Willamette River, of probably two business blocks and a few scattered houses. The Winter months were spent there, but when Spring came and tales began to reach the Oregon town of opportunities for business openings in the Sound country, which was just beginning to attract the emigrants' attention, Beatty, whose health was still poor, de- 82 THURSTON COUNTY cided to join a party of young men and take the venture. Sixteen stalwart young men were in the party with which the 3^oung man cast his fortune. All that Mr. Beatty can remember the names of at this late day are Tom Prather, four Hays brothers and Edmund Carr. The trip was made up the Cowlitz River in Indian canoes to the lower landing. Here the boys took the Indian trail up the river through brush so dense that many times the only possible way to get along was b.y crawling on their knees. When Jackson's place was reached the men were served a breakfast that, even after the lapse of these many years, re- mains fresh in ]\Ir. Beatty 's memory. About noon the party came out on Scatter Creek. They were almost famished by this time, and were delighted to find a shack standing there in the wilderness. The owner was not around, but the door was unlocked, so they went in and searched for something to satisfy their hunger. Edmund Carr was the first to reach the rude cupboard and opened the door. Mother Hubbard's cupboard must have been a clos3 connection to this one, for the only eatable the himgry young men could find was one cold potato on a tin plate. As this potato was only about the size of a walnut Carr appropriated it for himself. There was nothing else in all the cabin to eat, so the men had to push on to the next stopping place. Carr then called his friend Beatty aside and, dividing the diminutive potato exactly in half, gave one portion to him, eating the other himself. This was among the many acts of generosity and brotherly love that were related to the com- piler of these reminiscences that made the work one of the most delightful and inspiring experiences of her life. As evening approached, the party of adventurers reached Bush's, where a good supper was served them and permission given the boys to roll up in their blankets on the floor of the shack, which permission was gladly accepted. In the morning the march was completed by the arrival at Tumwater. There was only the stringers of a bridge then across the Des Chutes River at this place, the crossing having been made heretofore by Indian canoes. Horses and cattle were generally taken to Tenalquot Prairie, where there was a safe ford. This bridge, under construction, was being built by Ira Ward, the pioneer PIONEER REMINISCENCES 83 luillman of Puget Sound. The young men, single file, walked the square timbers across the river, so reaching Tumwater. 3Ir. Beatty's eyes grew dim as he mused. "I can see them yet, sixteen as fine young men as were ever to be seen, filing across that river which flowed swiftly beneath the single stick of timber. Of that goodly party only Tom Prather and myself are left. All the rest are long since gone." The experience of crossing the river was a new one to the prairie raised lad. From Tumwater the trail to Olympia was taken and this place reached about noon. The very afternoon the boys reached here news was brought to the settlement that Washington had, by Act of Congress, been set aside from Oregon. Everyone was glad and believed that a great era of prosperity was about to set in for the new territory. ''When I reached Olympia there were no buildings south of Fourth Street, everywhere else stood the tall timber coming right down to the beach, the only exception being Isaac Wood's residence, a shack constructed of clapboards down on the beach at where the end of Fifth Street now is. Mrs. Simp- son Moses and Mrs. George Barnes are the names of the only white women I can remember, although there were two others when we got here. "Edmund S.ylvester and his brother had a Hall for Travelers, as they called their place, on the corner where the Old New England hotel now stands. Their 'Hall' was of split and hewn lumber, lined with cloth, and while very comfortable for those days hardly came up to its pretentious name. "My first job was taken to split rails for j\Ir. Ruddle, out on Chambers Prairie. My friend Carr went with me and we found we had to first cut down the cedar trees, saw them into lengths, and then split the logs into rails. Well, I was not strong yet and too much of a tenderfoot to last long at this kind of work, so when noon came we quit and came back to Olympia. "Our next venture was to go to Alki Point, as it is now known, but which was then held as a townsite by Charles Terry and called New York. W. W. Miller was at that time internal revenue officer for the government and offered Carr and myself passage to New York for rowing the boat to that 84 THURSTON COUNTY place. I was fresh from the prairie country, the water wa.s new to me and I had never rowed a boat in my life, but we accepted the offer and made out tolerably well. "When we reached New York we found that Charlie Terry, of the firm of Lowe & Terry, loggers, was an old friend of my family, having come from the same place in Illinois. There were only three or four cabins there, but Terry had great faith in the prospect of a great city growing up there some day, so had platted the town site and laid off city lots. "I was given work driving an ox team — familiar work it was, too — on Bainbridge Island. Carr was set to felling trees. At this time our only food for over six weeks was salmon and potatoes, but I never thrived better, and gained a pound a day. till I was quite a comfortable weight and my bad health greatly improved. For this six weeks we were out of flour and it was not till the next sailing vessel came into port that we were enabled to have a variation from our diet of salmon and potatoes. "When Lowe sold out I returned to Olympia with him, and about the first thing I did upon my return was to build a little house for John Swan, on the corner where the Knox hotel now stands. Upon completion of this building I rented it of Swan, procured a foot lathe, cut alder trees from the swamp and began making furniture. In the early days car- penters or cabinet makers were of necessity mechanics in the true meaning of the word — not wood butchers. Though the trade was not governed by unions, the very condition compelled a man to be proficient. It was not possible then to go to the mill and get his doors and windows, his matched lumber and shingles or mouldings — all these were the work of the car- penter, whose kit of tools must include moulding planes and ether accessories now made unnecessary by modern improve- ments. "Later I bought the corner where for so many years John Miller Murphy has had his printing office, and which I sold to him in after years. Here I built for myself a shop, and continued making furniture. I was getting a fine start, and all my prospects were of the brightest when the Indian war broke out. This put a stop to business of all kinds. Emigra- tion slacked, and the country was set back ten years. Closing PIONEER REMINISCENCES 85 my shop I enlisted with the first volunteer company organized to fight the Indians. "Well, my experiences during this war would fill a small volume by theinselves. Many exciting and dangerous times were before me then. I was among the soldiers engaged in the Indian fight in the Puyallup Valley. Once I was with a party of volunteers who rescued an English family of settlers from massacre in this valley. Their house was surrounded, and although the inmates had made a gallant defense, the Indians were just breaking down the door when our men came galloping up, scattering the enemy and saving the lives of the white people. "After the White River battle and the subsequent sub- duing of the Indians on this side of the mountains, our com- pany w^as ordered East of the mountains, where the Indians of the Cayuse, Walla Walla and Umatilla tribes were on the warpath. We crossed the mountains through the Natchez Pass, which was wild and rough, and proved a trying ex- perience. "Our camp was made for several weeks on Mill Creek, near Walla Walla, at the place where the Whitman massacre occurred. We had to wait here till our government supplies arrived from Portland. "Here occurred an incident the reasons of which kepi my comrades guessing for the remainder of the campaign. Among the supplies sent the volunteers was a barrel of whisky. This was divided among the several companies, my company's share being a three gallon camp kettle full. The kettle, with its precious contents, was set in the com- manding officer's tent to wait till the boys got in from a scouting expedition, before dividing the whisky. As it was difficult to get the men together that night our captain de- cided that a morning drink would best be appreciated by the boys. Now, it was my duty to care for this captain's tent, as I was 2nd sergeant of our company, and was generally the first one up in the morning, to make the fire and bring fresh water for making the coffee for our mess. I grabbed this kettle, threw the contents on the ground and filled the utensil with water. Later, when the lioys were lined up with their tin cups in their hands and glad anticipation in their minds, 86 THURSTON COUNTY the captain went into tlie tent to bring out the kettle. Where was it! Why, there on the fire filled with boiling' coffee. I was questioned and acknowledged that it was through my act that the whisky was scattered on the ground. How was I to know that the kettle held anything but dirty water! The captain could say but little, for he had not told me to be careful of the contents of the kettle, and it was ray custom to take that kettle every morning to the creek for fresh water. My comrades growled a good bit. but they never could tell for certain whether I really did know wdiat was in that kettle or not. After these years I can say that the very liame of whisky has always been distasteful to me. We were on the eve of an attack from the Indians, we supposed, and I was determined that there would be at least one sober com- pany in the engagement. The boys didn't dare to manhandle me, but I know they would have liked to do so, "Word was received that the Indian tribes were collect- ing in the Grande Rounde Valley to gather camas for the Winter, and we were sent in to rout them. We were 100 fighting men with a guard of 75 men with the pack animals. It was night when Ave reached the upper end of the valley and w^e went into camp there. Very foolishly we built camp fires, so letting the Indians know where we were. We expected to find the Indians at the lower passage on the Grande Rounde River, and in the morning formed in line and started for there. Before the passage was reached there came riding out of the willow trees that fringed the river banks an Indian brave in war paint. In his hand was a long pole on which was a white man's scalp. Riding wildly around in front of the volunteers, but always out of rifle range, the Indian gave his war whoop and waved the ghastly trophy as a tantalizing menace before our boys. jMy comrade all through the war was G, C. Blankenship, and a finer man I never met. This sight was too much for his temper, so he dashed up to our commanding officer and plead: 'Col, let me get that fellow!' 'Go then,' said the colonel, 'Get him if you can while he is in the open, but do not follow him into the brush,' Blankenship rode out after the Indian, but when the rascal saw he was pursued he took refuge in the bushes aiid the man had to return to his company. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 87 "Dust arising from the plain near the upper crossing of the Grande Kounde was seen, and Col. Shaw called a halt and said: 'Boys, there is where we want to charge, for there is where the Indian train, with their supplies, are trying t ) get out of the N^alley.' We dashed up and Col. Shaw dismounted ?ind went into the bushes where he could see up and down +he river. A man named Buchanan, and myself, also dis- mounted and went up to the river, leading our horses. I saw blood on Buchanan's horse's flank and said, 'We'd better get back a little. Buck,' which we did. When Col. Shaw ioined us, one of the boys said, 'What's that on your coat r-ollar. Colonel!' He looked, and there was a bullet hole clear through the cloth and another one through the skirt of his r-oat. The Indians were poor shooters and couldn't hit any- thing a few yards away. "We crossed the river and the Indians fired on us as we Avere fording, but no one was killed, although we got three or four of their men. As expected, we found the pack train with the women and papooses. The ponies were loaded with camas and the next day we had a burning and destroyed at least 200 bushels of roots. "This was the Indians' last struggle against the whites. By destroying their winter's sux)plies they were rendered help- less. They couldn't tight on empty stomachs and so we con- Vjuered them. "That the Indian war was hastened and fostered by the Tludson Bay people there is little doubt. At that time Eng- land claimed all this country from the Canadian possessions to the Columbia river, and the ever increasing number of Ameri- cans coming to settle the Northwest threatened to put under the plow land that the Hudson Bay sheep men were accustomed to look upon as their legitimate pasturage, so they aided the Indians with arms and supplies in a struggle to maintain con- trol of the country. "Governor Stevens sent his clerk out once to visit the In- dian camps to see if he could find evidence of aid to the Indians Irom this source. I was sent along, with others, as a guard. AVe found empty sacks and cans with the Hudson Bay let- tering on them, proving conclusively where much of the sup- I'ort the Indians received came from. 88 THURSTON COUNTY "Innist tell one other I'neiclent of the war. While we M^ere camped on Tenalqnot prairie, at the fort there, and the volun- teer troops were assembling^, myself and seven other men were sent to Olympia for supplies. We were on horseback and had just come out on Long prairie when we spied a party of 75 Indians coming towards us. That they were armed, we could see, for the sun glittered on their guns. We held a hurried consultation and decided that as we were mounted and the Indians were on foot we would go a bit closer to see what was doing, although we intended keeping well out of rifle shot- It proved to be the Squaxon Indian tribe, under leadership of Indian Agent Gosnald, coming to join forces with the volunteers to fight the hostiles. When they saw us eight men ride up single file to meet their anny of 75, they broke into a perfect bedlam, they were so excited. 'What's the use. Indian tight white man,' their chief said, 'one white man not afraid ten Indians.' And that was always the way it was. We never thought it was possible that the Indians could lick ns. When we went down into the Grande Rounde after them, we were only 100 fighting men, not counting the 75 men in charge of the pack train, and there were 1,000 Iinlian w^arriors against us. But we were never afraid, and so won the struggle, "When we were on the campaign one of the pleasant recol- lections of this grim time was the cooking my comrade, G. C. Blankenship, did for the mess. The men were supposed to take turns in this task but after they had all been tried out, Mr. Blankenship proved so superior in the culinary art that he M^as made chief cook for the rest of the campaign. He would open a sack of flour, mix up a batch of bread with his sour dough 'starting' and when that bread was baked in Ihe camp oven with plenty of bacon grease it was a delight to the hungry men. One day, to vary the menu our cook rolled some sugar in the dough, cut it into little pieces and fried these in bacon grease. The result was the best doughnuts man (>ver tasted — or so we thought at the time. When I got home I tried them to show my women folks how% but they didn't taste so good. With this bread, doughnuts and bacon, beans and coffee, we fared well on the trip. "After the war was over I was appointed Indian Agent under General R. H. jMilroy, and became well acquainted with PIONEER REMINISCENCES 89 the Indians. I could speak their language and had many friends among them. I have worked as cabinet maker and carpenter for years in Olympia, and once went to Salem, Ore- gon, where 1 was engaged in a sash and door factory for three years, bat always came back to this town." Here Mr. Beatty ceased his talk and asked to be excused while his wife proceeded with the narrative. "With my uncle, Rev. Geo. F. Whitworth, and my aunt, Eliza Whitworth, and her mother, Mrs. Sarah Thompson, my sister Sarah and the four young Whitworth children, I crossed the plains from Connelton, Indiana. Grandmother was 78 years old, and I was a young girl of sixteen. "The way I happened to make this trip was, when the Presbyterian Board of Missionaries sent Uncle Whitworth out to preach the Gospel in the wilderness, he begged father- to let my sister Sarah and myself come along as company for Aunt Eliza and to help take care of our grandmother. Of course, I was to go back in a year or two, but it has been over sixty years since I made that journey and I have never been back yet. "We had no special hardships on the trip, other than was to be expected from camping out for so long a time and the fatigue of constant but slow travelling, for we had ox teams. There were 40 wagons in our train, and so, owing to our considerable numbers, we were not molested by the In- ulians, although once we were followed 150 miles by a band of warriors, who told us they intended killing every one of our party in revenge for the death of one of their number, which had occurred shortly before. An emigrant in a train rdiead of ours had shot and killed the Indian. The brave who came into our camp to tell us of their intentions amused him- self by marking off with stakes in the ground the length of the graves he informed us we would soon occupy when they had finished us. But thej^ never seemed to find the weak spot in our defense and Ad ally gave over following us. When we reached the Snake river we waited for other teams along the road to join us for further protection. Two wagons came along the trail with their beds completely riddled from the Indians' bullets. They had been attacked by a roving band, 90 THURSTON COUNTY one of the children killed and an attempt made to stampede their stock. They were a sorry-looking outfit. "Uncle Whitworth would have no Sunday traveling, and the train was always halted on this day, and we laid by for rest, and generally held some kind of worship. But when we reached the Blue Mountains the supplies were running so low that the other people in the train determined to travel all day Sunday. We started up the Blue Mountains on this par- ticular Sabbath day, which was the first we had failed to properly observe. When we were rounding a canyon I was driving the oxen on one side and my sister on the other to keep them in the narrow road. The front yoke deliberately walked ofi' over the edge of the precipice. The rigging gave way and left a single yoke of young oxen to hold the wagon from slipping back down the hillside. These animals strained till their horns were buried in the dust of the road, and they were brought to their knees before the wagon could be stopped. That was our first Sunday trial. As evening came en Uncle Whitworth had to take our big wagon and strike out to the river, twelve miles away, leaving Aunt Eliza, one of the children and me to guard the other wagon. We were frightened, for the coyotes were howling round and it was a fearsome spot. William INIitchell, who was with our train, heard of our being left behind alone and rode back to stay with us till Uncle Whitworth could return. We were so glad to see him and appreciated his thoughtfulness. "When we reach Portland, X^ncle Whitworth came on up to Fort Steilacoom to take up his missionary labors. He found an Episcopal minister already stationed at the fort, and doing such a noble work that there seemed to be no field of labor there for any other minister. But in Olympia there was a good opening, and it seemed to him that he could do a great deal of good in this new place, so decided to locate here. There was scarcely anybody living here then, the settlement being mostly at Tumwater, but at what is now known as Priest's Point some Catholic fathers had established a mission. "Uncle took up a donation claim on land adjoining thi' mission property, built a temporary home for his family and began his missionary labors. He organized the First Presby- terian church in Olympia, also at Chehalis, and the one on PIONEER REMINISCENCES 91 Chambers prairie. Riding for miles to carry the gospel wher- ever a few were congregated, sometimes being obliged to teach school to support his family, so meager was the pittance al- lowed him by the Presbytery, and so poor were his congrega- tions. He was a good man and has gone to a well earned reward. "Aunt Eliza, with the rest of the family, had stayed in Portland the first winter in the West, while Uncle Whitworth was locating on the Sound. Aunt and my sister, Sarah, taught school that winter to pay our expenses. "In May of the following summer Uncle came to bring us to our new home. The trip in the Indian canoes up the Cow- litz river was one of the most thrilling experiences of my life. J was totally unused to water, and although the canoes were large, they looked dangerous to me. Indeed, one of the canoes was upset and we lost all our bread and dishes, although the latter were recovered after several weeks and sent on to us. We found refuge the night we reached the landing in the home of Mr. Lemon, whose son is now Millard Lemon, the Olympia capitalist. "We were met at the landing by Judge B. F. Yantis with an ox team to bring us to our new home. As we had to camp out along the way from the Cowlitz to Olympia, the loss of our dishes was very inconvenient. Judge Yantis searched among the ranch houses to find cups for us to drink out of, but all the dishes he could procure were three small sugar bowls of thick earthenware. These the elders used for drink- ing cups, but we younger ones had to use egg shells from which to drink our coffee. But we enjoyed the experience and thought coffee never tasted so good. "We had one scare as a welcome to the new country. At the Cowlitz landing were a number of Indian tents and in them were some very sick squaws and pappooses. Harry Whit- worth, then about nine years old, went in among them, carry- ing them water and tending them until way in the night. Later it developed that the disease with which the Indians were ill was smallpox, and that in the most virulent form. So severe did the disease rage that that particular band of Indians was almost lost. We watched Harry with great uneasiness till the 92 THURSTON COUNTY danger period was safely over. I suppose the fresh air and our perfect health prevented our taking the disease. "When we reached Tumwater Judge Yantis, who was al- ways full of his fun and jokes, took Sarah and me to visit an Indian camp, to see what he told us would be our eatables from now on. They had just finished drying and hanging up a string of geoducks. The long necks and scaly looking bodies of this, to us, new species of salt water products, did not look very inviting. "From Tumwater we took canoes for Priests Point, where Uncle's claim was. If I was frightened before, imagine my sensations when I was placed in a tiny craft that, when I was in with my Indian paddler, was only about one inch above the water of Puget Sound. When we reached the point below the mission all our household goods we had with us had to be carried by hand up the hill to our home. Grand- mother, who had shared in all our adventures, could not climb up there, however, so sister Sarah and myself put her in the little old rocking chair we had brought clear from our old home in Indiana for her to sit in and carried her up the hill and the quarter of a mile to where our house stood. This bouse was but a shack ]6xl6 built of poles and covered, sides and all. with cedar bark. There was a fireplace in one end three or four feet across and one of the most joyous objects we had beheld for a long time. "The good fathers at the mission were our only neigh- bors, and the woods came close to our shack. In our imme- diate neighborhood was an Indian burial place, the bodies hanging in the branches of the tall trees, laid in canoes. It was to us a fearsome sight, but we became accustomed to it. and did not mind it after a while. Indeed, we much preferred these dead Indians to some of those still alive, for it was at this time that the Indian trouble was on. "That summer Uncle raised quite an amount of potatoes and, as we had no cellar, was at loss where to store them, until someone pointed out that in the field where he was clearing there were a number of big trees, the roots of which had been burned into, leaving hollows and thus forming excellent places for storing the potatoes. "As a variation of our diet we used to put up the wild PIONEER REMINISCENCES 93 berries we found growing here in profusion. As sugar was scarce and very expensive we used wild honey as the preserva- tive. Honey bee trees were frequently located, and it was one of the sports of the time to cut one down and secure the sweets stored in the hollow trunk. We had rough and tumble times, but good times withal. Life was full of snap and en- joyment in simple pleasures. "We had our mail aljout every six weeks, and for the first few years all our supplies came from the Sandwich Islands. It was a great day when we began to get things in from San Francisco; we began to feel quite civilized. I remember the first apples ever grown in Thurston County. They were grown on a tree planted by Mr. Axtel, on Grand Mound prairie. Mrs. Axtel told the boys that if they did not touch the fruit when it was ripe she would make them a pie. They obeyed and when that pie was made, so precious were the apples they went in, peel and all. No M^asting good fruit by taking off even the thinnest peeling. "We lived in the shack Uncle Whitworth had provided for us for quite a while, but finally we were ready for a new house, so comes from Olympia David Beatty and A. J. Lin- ville, carpenters, to build our new house. And that is the time and the place I met Mr. Beatty. These men cut down trees from the land around the site of the new house, split them into boards and planed out the weather boarding, all by hand. They made a ver.y creditable and comfortable resi- dence, which we appreciated after our crowded quarters. We sent for our household furnishings, books, etc., which came around the Horn, and from San Francisco were sent on by sailing vessels to this port. "As the Indians Avere getting troublesome Uncle Whit- worth asked the mission fathers if they considered our situa- tion dangerous. They replied, 'Not yet, we will give you warning, if it becomes so, in time for you to go to the stock- ade in Olympia.' In about tw^o weeks this warning was given and we fled to town. Again we carried grandmother in her little chair to the water and set her into a canoe. We found refuge in two rooms over Mr. Beatty 's shop. These rooms had been fitted up as a photograph gallery by Samuel Holmes father of Fred Holmes and Mrs. Robert Frost, and was the 94 THURSTON COUNTY first art galleiy in the Northwest. I slept right under the big skylight in the roof, "Mr. Beatty and I were married in 1856 after the Indian war was over. We at one time took np a homestead of 160 acres on Ayers' Hill, joining Swan's donation claim. Mr. Beatty built a cabin on one side of a stream that flowed there then, and his partner, Mr. Linville, lived on the other side of the stream, but it was so lonesome and the trees were so for- midable that the places were abandoned. The timber alone, in after years on those claims, would have been worth a fortune. "Uncle Whitworth, Aunt Eliza, the grandmother, Sister Sarah, all are gone. I can think of no one of my associates of those early days who is still living. Our daughter Adelaide, i.« the only child we have ever had." PIONEER REMINISCENCES 95 MRS. JOHN G. PARKER Have you ever opened a long-forgotten desk and taken out a packet of letters tied with faded blue ribbon, and caught the sweet, evanescent perfume of rose leaves and violets which have been put away by hands which have long since finished their earthly tasks? Such were the sensations of the compiler of these reminiscences when journeying back to the days of long £go with Mrs. John G. Parker. Sweet and full of girlish ro- mance were the memories evoked of conquests, triumphs and innocent coquetry of this belle of Olympia of the early '50 's, although the dear old lady could also tell of hardships and privations that would undoubtedly crush a girl of modern days. In Mrs. Parker's words will her story be told, for they were more eloquent and expressive than any at my command, but the reader will miss the inspiration of watching the deli- cate color come and go in the faded but still lovely face, of listening to the gentle voice thrill and tremble over the ex- citing or sorrowful portions of the narrative, of being taken back to the actual scenes and experiences of those days that are no more. "When I was a young girl of a little less than sixteen years of age, living in Saline County, Missouri, my father, Gilmore Hays, decided to leave the old homestead and take his family out to Oregon, as all this section of the country was then called. Father had been out West before and knew that the land was full ol richness and opportunities for amass- ing wealth such as would never be found in the more settled country. There were six boys in our family and father thought they would stand a better chance to get on in the world when the time came for them to branch out for them- selves in the new country. Father's enthusiasm spread to a lot of our kinsfolks and they decided to join our train and cross the plains with us. y6> • THURSTON' COUNTY "'I can't tell now just Iiow many wagons, there were in line when we pulled out for our start for the long journey over the Oregon Trail. But the ones whom I am able to re- tail were the family of Dr. N. Ostrander, Uncle Frank Yantis with his family, George Scott and wife, ]\Ir. and Mrs. Hillory Butler, my father's brother Isaac Hays, Rev. Lapsley Yantis and many others, "The firet stages of the trip were full of pleasure and de- light, especially to us younger members of the train. Although the greater part of the wag'ons were drawn bj' yokes of oxen and perforce the travel w^as slow, we younger ones had each <,ur own pony and would ride far in advance of the train, pick cut a good camping place w^here there was wood, water and grass for the animals. Here we would dismount and the young men proceed to collect piles of wood for the camp fires in the evening while we girls would skylark around, pick flovv^ers: and rest beneath the trees by the side of the beautiful streams: M'^hich we frequently were fortunate enough to find for our camping- place. When the wagons would pull in towards, evening it was a hurry-up to get supper, turn out the stock and then all hands gather around the enormous campfires; v,^here merry jest, songs and cheerful companionship banished every thought of homesickness or foreboding. We had several violins, a banjo and many fine voices in the party, so music? was enjoyed almost every evening. "I must tell you about my pony. She was the fastest ani- mal in the train, a perfect beauty and a great pet, and an animal of more than ordinary intelligence. So speedy was: she that the hunters always borrowed her when they wanted to run down a buffalo to replenish our supply of fresh meat- One day I was in a pet towards the other girls in the train, Sarah Yantis and her sister, Mrs. PuIIen, (these girls were fifterwards ]\Irs. 6. C. Blankenship and Mrs. Dick Wood), So I told them to ride on and I would wait for the wagons, let- ting my pony eat by the .road side. As soon as they had dis- appeared along the trail I dismounted and sat down in the grass. That pony Avould scarcely eat a mouthful so intently c'id she watch, looking all around for possible danger. When the wagons came on np and father saw me there alone he !:Colded me good and hard and said the horse show^ed a good PIONEER REMINISCENCES 97 deal more sense than I did. But some way I was never in the least afraid of the Indians and thought the tales I heard of their cruelty and treacherj^ were mostly imaginary. I was to learn better a few years afterwards during the Indian war m Washington. "Well, all went merrj' as a marriage bell until we reached Fort Laramie. Here was the parting of the ways. Uncle Lapsley Yantis was a Presbyterian minister and as good a man as ever trod the earth, and he was strong for whatever he considered to be the right, and to travel on the Sabbath day was not right according to his views. Father was also a good man but he was more practical and had different ideas from Uncle Lapsley. He reasoned that even if the train did lay over and not travel on Sundays that the emigrants would probably not observe the day any better than those who pushed on toward their journey's end. The women would bake, wash, etc., and the young folks get into various kinds of mischief, but most weighty argument of all, the cattle would become so scattered in a whole day's and two nights' layoff that, in his judgment, it was better to keep going. The leaders couldn't agree, so the train was divided, some going on with father and the remainder staying with the Sabbath keepers. Was it a judgment from God that as soon as the decision was made and we began to fail in Sabbath observance dire calamity be- fell us? It certainly looked so. Soon after the separation we overtook an emigrant wagon in which was a sick boy. Mother offered her services to the parents of the lad and did Avhat she i-ould do for them in the way of nursing and simple remedies to relieve the lad's fever. Little did she suspect the nature of the disease she came in contact with. About ten days after encountering the sick boy she was taken down with a raging fever which soon developed into a severe case of black measles. Soon nearly all the young people of the train were inflicted with the dread disease. Of my six brothers one after another died till three graves were made along the roadside. But before Brother Henry died mother, too, was taken. Henry ■seemed to be getting over the measles and we hoped for a time he might be spared us. One night, after convalescence had set in, we were sitting around the campfire, no longer glee- ful and singing, but oppressed w^ith our dreadful sorrow. 98 THURSTON COUNTY Henry was well enough then to eat some ham which I had cooked for supper. After eating he complained of a terrible thirst and kept drinking water. Soon cramps set in and he was dead before morning. I thought father would go crazy at this terrible last blow. "We reached Salmon Falls in Idaho before mother died, and although I did not know of it till a year afterwards when I again met my cousin, Sarah Yantis, in Olympia, I must tell of her resting place. We had to roll the body in a blanket — there was, of course, no way to make even the rudest coffin, and after the mortal remains of our dear mother had been covered the best we could, father took off a piece of the end board of the wagon and wrote her name, Naomi Hayes, on it. Then we had to go on and leave her there. "Well, when Uncle Lapsley's train came along several days after we were on our way, they espied a newly made grave beside the road and on going to it read mother's name. Mrs. Yantis, who was very delicate and suffering from the hardships of the trip, had become very ill on the way. When she knew that her old friend was buried there she lost all hope, and although the train made a couple of stages further on their way, the poor lady w^as unable to stand the shock and sank to rest. Her last words w^ere 'Take me back to sleep beside Naomi.' Her broken hearted husband and children respected these last words and retracing their way to where mother was laid, buried her there and beneath mother's name wrote 'Ann Yantis.' And there they sleep side by side. Ah. it was a hard and bitter time. "After the death of my third brother father decided that the time had come to do something, so he had one of the lighter w^agons emptied of all but our actual necessities for light camping and hitching the freshest of the mules to the wagon, started my brothers, myself and some other women and children of the train on as fast as the animals could travel. He hoped we could reach The Dalles and so on to Portland before winter set in. "When we reached The Dalles we women and children were put on flat boats and floated down to the Cascades. Here we were obliged to walk across the portage to the landing and then take a little steamboat on down to Portland. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 99 "At this place I was met by an uncle, Andrew Cowan, who took me home with him and I spent the winter very com- fortably with my uncle and aunt. "Portland was then a mere village with a two plank sidewalk extending along the few blocks which were built up, and mud, mud everywhere. It was certainly the muddiest, dirtiest place I had ever seen at that time. "When father finally reach The Dalles with the ox teams he bought a good many of the emigrants' cattle and turned them out on the ranges in the vicinity. But the hard luck with which he had been followed throughout the latter part of the journey still pursued the poor man. "One of the coldest winters on record for that region set in and the cattle were caught by the heavy snows. The beasts were weakened anyway with their thousands of miles travel and in no condition to withstand the rigors of the cli- mate. There was no hay or feed to be bought for any price so almost the entire drove perished. This almost bankrupted father and was a severe blow to the high hopes of wealth and prosperity he had entertained when he started from Missouri. Four of his family left back on the plains, his money spent for the cattle and four helpless children on his hands. For T was little more than a child in years and having always lived on a plantation with servants to do everything about the house and mother to depend on, you may be sure I w^as very incapable and inexperienced. "Came the Spring of 1852 and father was restless and wanting to go on to the promised land — Puget Sound — so chartering a flat boat to take us up the Cowlitz river after we left the steamboat at Monticello landing, we were again on our way. "The memory of that trip will be with me as long as memory lasts. The flat boat, loaded with our very few house- hold effects, was poled up the Cowlitz, but there was no room on the boat for us women and the children, so there was noth- ing to do but walk along the trail. This trail was through, in many places, brush so dense, that we crawled on our hands and knees to get along at all. In other places we were in mud well up to our knees. "In addition to this I had to carry my little brother, 100 THURSTON COUNTY Eobert. The poor little fellow was only three years old and had never become very strong from his attack of the measles the summer before. I, too, was weak and sick and in my mind thought I was not long for this world, and I must say, I didn't care much, life seemed so full of trouble and hard- ship. When we reached the Cowlitz landing we w^ere met by mule teams which had been sent down from Olympia to haul our freight. The wagons were so filled and the roads in such a condition that I still had to walk across the country past where Chehalis now is and on to Mound prairie. My com- panion on this dreary jaunt was i\Irs. Hillory Butler, who with her husband was also coming to the Sound with us. She was very kind and good to the motherless girl and helped me carry my little brother. Turn and turn about we plodded all those weary miles through knee-deep mud, hot, tired and discouraged. "Coming out on Mound prairie we spied a cabin in a clearing. The eternal feminine asserted itself even under those distressing conditions, so before going to the house Mrs. Butler and myself stopped beside a stream of water flowing by and wading up to our knees, washed the bottoms of our skirts off the best we could, they being literally caked with mud. straight- ened our hair and then proceeded to the house where we pro- posed to ask shelter for the night. ''In the door of the cabin stood the fairest sight I have ever seen. It was my own dear cousin and chum, Sarah Yan- tis. Imagine the greetings received. Although over fifty years have passed over my head since then and I have changed from a pretty, young girl to a great-grandmother, I still re- call the thrill of rapture with which I rushed into Sarah's arms and listened to her dear voice once again. AVhen the train was divided Uncle Frank Yantis with family had re- mained behind and on reaching Portland had proceeded straight on to this section of the country. He had taken up a donation claim out on the prairie and was comfortably settled. "We rested there visiting with Uncle Frank's family for a while and then came on to Olympia. "Our first place of refuge on reaching this place was with a bachelor who had a comfortable log cabin a couple of miles from Newmarket — now Tumwater. This man's name was Ben- PIONEER REMINISCENCES 101 jamin Gordon, or Old Ben, as he Avas commonly called, and he was very good to us all. Aunt and Uncle Andrew Cowan had come to this section of the country with us and for quite i\ while we all lived in Mr. Gordon's cabin — the Cowans, all the Hays children and father, when he Avas at home. There was a garden around the place and we had ail the milk and butter we wanted from ]\Ir. Gordon's cows. ''I began to grow strong and well again and life opened up many fair promises. The young men from around the <30untr3'' began to find their way to the cabin and I had a great deal of attention and admiration. There were only four young ladies within a radius of many miles, Sarah Yantis, Charlotte and Lucy Barnes and myself. The young men used to come out to the cabin Sunday afternoons in considerable numbers- Those who had riding horses would ride and those who had not would walk and seem to think nothing of the miles traveled over the trail to spend a few hours in my com- pany. There was generally a generous supply of buttermilk on hand and the boys made the excuse that it was for this cooling drink they had come. They were a brave lot of lads, gallant and stalwart. I felt an interest and friendship for everyone of them. Ah, me, where are they now? All, all gone. "The young man who used to come most frequently to see me was young Benton IMoses, who afterwards married my dear friend, Sarah Yantis. One Sunday when Mr. Moses arrived on his usual afternoon visit he was accompanied by another young man whom he introduced as John Parker. I will never forget' the appearance of this youth that day. He had a beautiful riding horse, which he managed with splendid skill, but it was his getup which made the lasting impression on me. Mr. Parker had a trading store in Olympia and carried principally articles for barter with the Indians. From this stock he had selected a pair of riding leggings which came to the knees, on his feet were beaded moccasins and on his head was a queer looking Scotch cap. He made a great impression on my young fancy even at this first visit. Afterwards, when he became a regular visitant at father's house, Mr. Moses used to tell with much glee how he inveigled Parker to th-^ cabin with tales of the nice fresh buttermilk to be had, but 102 THURSTON COUNTY said never a word about the young lady who wouhl pour the buttermilk for him. Mr. Parker at that time was extremely bashful and had never called on a young lady before. "By this time father had taken up his donation claim, which is, as near as I can tell now, was situated where the road makes its first turn in going towards the Hays school house after passing the Masonic cemetery. I kept house for him and the children the best I could. Tom Prather, who was a distant relative, lived with us part of the time, and it was he who taught me about all I knew about cooking and general housework. He was always good and kind to all of us and his unfailing friendship has been one of the brightest remembrances of my life. "Olympia then was merely a e;illection of shacks, with only two or three places of business of any kind. Mr. and. Mrs. George Barnes were about the only married couple here when I first arrived, although others soon came. Mr. Parker's store was opposite the Pacific House, which place w^as after- Avards kept by Col. Cock, whose young wife became one of the warmest of friends to both myself and Sarah Yantis. We girls used to go in to stay all night at their hotel and Mrs. Cock was so good to us, throwing many a pleasant time our way. "About the only anuisement we young folks had in those days was horseback riding. There were no roads and, of course, no buggies or other means of conveyance. The young men used to come out to our house riding one horse and lead- ing another for me. Later I learaed that they generally bor- rowed Mr. Parker's horse for me to ride on. But that was before we had met, after that event it was always John who would come. He had sent to San Francisco for a side saddle for me, probably the first article of that description in the Northwest. One of those three-horned affaire such as girls used to ride. Sarah could ride a man's saddle with perfect ease, sitting straight as an arrow and graceful as a reed, but I wanted a side saddle. I never saw a woman ride astride in those days and we would have thought it a very immodest thing to do. Times have changed in many ways since I was a girl. "But I must tell about my wedding. I had lived on the PIONEER REMINISCENCES 103 homestead about two years, keeping house for father and do- ing the best I could with Avhat I had to do with. I\Ir. Parker had kept coming to see me. and although we were not really engaged, I thought we would be married some time. But there Avas nothing definite. Father began to grow restless ggain and wanted to go liack east once more. But w^hat to do with me and the boys? He talked of it for several weeks, and I could see he was moody and uneasy. My cousin, Sarah, had come from her father's home, still on ]\round Prairie, to ^pend a few days with me and we were planning to take a horseback ride one day in company with ]Mr. Parker and Mr. Moses, who were coming out from town a little later. Father had gone on out to do some burning on the land he was clear- ing up in the far lot, so I was surprised when he came back to the house and said 'Rushe, get me some hot water for shav- ing and put me out a clean shirt.' 'Why, father,' I said, 'are you going to town?' 'No,' he replied, 'I am going to attend your wedding.' 'My wedding?' I gasped. 'Yes, your wed- ding. You might as well be married one time as another, Parker wants you and I want to go east.' I was almost dumb with astonishment and chagrin. I asked Sarah what I had better do and she very strongly counseled me not to listen to such a proposition. I was almost distracted. I didn't know what to do. I knew I loved John and knew that he loved me, but I had no wardrobe and was not ready to be married. I sat down by the fireplace brooding and thinking, when ]\Ir. Parker arrived. He saw at once something was the matter and asked me if I was sick. I told him I was not and he would have to ask father about what was the trouble. He went out in the yard and had a long talk with father and then came in and asked me to sit on the steps of the doorway Avith him to talk matters over. He said he wanted to marry me more than he ever had wanted anything on earth, but he had hoped to get in a little better financial shape before asking me to cast my lot with his. He told me he was a poor man and in debt — a former partner in an express venture had ab- sconded with $5,000, for which loss Mr. Parker became per- sonally responsible. 'But, Rushe,' he said, 'if yon are will- ing to undertake the life I can offer you now I will love and 104 THURSTON COQNTY cherish you forever/ And no I agreetl. ]\Ir. Parker then rode back to town and returned with Judge Landers. "I got readj^ the best I could and Sarah helped me. j\Iy best dress was a black silk which I had made with a low cut neck and short sleeves. I thought I looked quite nice in that dress and .so did John. Tom Prather cooked our wedding dinner and, besides Sarah as attendant at the wedding, was Uncle Frank Yantis. We stayed at father's house the first night and the next day took our deferred horseback ride to Mound Prairie and that was our wedding trip. "Afterwards we went to housekeeping in a little cottage snd there in the course of time our first child was bom, our daughter Helen, now Mrs. Herbert MclMicken. "Father then went back east, but returned by the time of the Indian war in 1855. He organized the first volunteer troops in the Northwest for the defense of the settlers, and was honored by being made commander of the united volun- teer troops before the war was over. "IMy cousin Sarah by this time was married to young A, Benton Moses and was living in Olympia also. When the In- dian war broke out Mr. Moses was one of the first white men to lose his life by the Indians. He was killed out on Connell Prairie while in company with a small body of men who were going to join the volunteers. The others were obliged to flee for their own lives and leave the poor lad there on the prairie. He was wounded but not killed outright. When he fell from- his horse he begged his companions to save themselves and sent a loving messag'e to his young girl bride. A few days; later Tom Prather and a small company of men went out and brought the body back to Olympia. "Never will I forget the tragedy of that funeral. Besides Mr. Moses there were the bodies of Lieutenant McAllister and Col. Miles, who were also killed at the same time. These bodies, placed in rude coffins, were placed in one of the two> wagons in the settlement. In the other wagon rode Sarah, ^Irs. Cock and myself, the men Avalking in a procession be- hind the wagons. Our wagon was without springs of any kind and such as are used to haul dirt in. There were no seats and only some boards laid across the bed. Several times these boards slipped off and let the mourners down in thc^ PIONEER REMINISCENCES 105 bottom of the wagon bed The day was dark and dreary and the road but little more than a rough trail. It was a terrible experience. To do honor to the brave boys who had lost their lives in the attempt to protect others, the citizens decided that a military funeral was proper, so music must be included. This consisted of a drum and fife. As we wended our way out to the graveyard over and over again did this drum and fife sound out the strains of 'The Girl I Left Behind Me.* That was the only tune they could play -and they did the best they could, but I thought Sarah's heart would surely break. The graveyard was the one out on the road leading to what is now Little Rock, near Belmore. Here the three graves were made close to the road, side by side. And here soon after was laid the remains of Chas. H. Mason, the first Secretary of the Territory, a gallant young man of gooCi family, who died of fever when only 29 years of age. I think the Thurston County Historical Society could do no better work than mark the last resting place of these heroes of the Indian war. "But enough of these sad reminiscences. I will now tell about when the first State ball was held in Washington. It was in the nature of a housewarming, when Governor and Mrs. Stevens moved into the Governor's mansion, which the Ex- ecutive officer had built soon after the arrival of his family from the East. This very same house is still standing on the block now owned by Mr. Hazard Stevens, on Eleventh street, between Main and Columbia. It was considered quite a pala- tial residence when it was completed, and the invitations to attend the housewarming were eagerly accepted by Olympia society. Almost every one was present. Sarah and I with our beaux attended. The night was dark and the trail rough, so lanterns were hung every few feet in the branches of the trees to guide ns to the mansion. There was a dance fol- lowing the reception and then a big supper. The dance was held in the parlor of the house and if room was scarce the jollity and good fellowship made up for all shortcomings. I think I can say that in the long and brilliant line of legisla- tive balls and receptions that has followed this iniiial one, there has never been more genuine happiness and enjoyment 106 THURSTON COUNTY than was the share of Governor and ]\Irs. Stevens' guests that night. "My husband at that time kept the Gold Bar store and when the question of finding some place where the first meet- ing of the Territorial Legislature could be held, my father suggested using the room above his store. This suggestion was adopted and the place made in readiness for that historical event. After a few years Mr. Parker went to steamboating. building and operating, I think, the first steamboat on Puget Sound, The Traveller, on the run between Olympia and Vic- toria. Later he was owner and captain of the Messenger, go- ing to Seattle from this place. It took two whole days to make the trip down to Seattle and return, providing the tides were right and they had no breakdowns. Then for several years he was on the Alida. between the same ports. We went to San Francisco and staid there for ten years, but finally re- turned to the Sound. "My dear husband died in Olympia on October 2, 190S. and is buried out in the Masonic cemetery. "Besides Mrs. McMicken our children are: Gilmore Hays, Maude, now^ Mrs. Anderson of Tacoma, Herbert and John G.. Jr., both of Seattle. Gilmore Hays died quite recentlv. ' ' PIONEER REMINISCENCES 107 JOHN MILLER MURPHY ]\Ir. John IMiller Mnrpliy has been more prominently identified with the growth and development of Olympia and Thurston County, and for a longer continuous time, than any of the men who braved the hardships and dangers of the wilderness. For fifty years Mr. Murphy, through the columns of the Washington Standard, worked for the advancement and prosperity of the community. For over two thousand six hundred weeks the Standard was a welcome visitor in the majority of the homes of Olympia and Thurston County. The editorials in these many issues Mr. Murphy penned with his own hand. Mr. Murphy has recorded the appointments, through the columns of the Standard, of eleven Territorial Governors, com- mencing with Governor Wm. H. Wallace, and including Gov- ernors Pickering, Cole, Moore, Flanders, Salomon, Newell, Squire, Ferry, Miles C. IMoore, and the elections of Washing- ton State Governors Ferry, McGraw, Rogers, McBride, ]\Iead, Cosgrove and Hay. When the Standard was born James Bu- chanan was President of the United States. A search through the back files of this paper show the announcements of the inaugurations of Presidents Lincoln, Johnson, Grant. Hayes, Garfield, Arthur, Cleveland (twice), Harrison, McKinley, Roosevelt and Taft. Among the most interesting of ]Mr. Murphy's reminiscences, as recorded in The Standard, tells about the young editor being in Portland, Oregon, for the purpose of attending his own wedding. Just as the young couple were about to take the stage for their home on Puget Sound, a San Francisco steamer arrived in port with the late newspapers on board, bearing black letter headlines, "Fort Sumpter Fired On." Mr. ]\Iurphy called the boy selling the papers and bought the entire supply, saying nothing of the great news to the rest (f the passengers until reaching Olympia. 108 THURSTON COUNTY Arriving here he hurriedly turned his bride over to the care of the hotel people and rushed for the Standard office. All the printers in town were set to work at the cases and within a few hours an extra was cried upon the streets of Olympia with huge headlines announcing the beginning of the war. "And," added Mr. Murphy, "as I told the story of the firing on Fort Sumpter all in the headlines, the people saw at a glance the reason for the extra's appearance and not one cent did I realized from the issue. Besides, I paid the boys $1 for selling the papers on the streets. Since that time I have kept part of my story for the columns of the paper instead of spreading it all out in the headlines." The description of the way the news of Lee's surrender was received in the Capital City was very amusing. There was no better way to celebrate important events in those days than in patronizing the saloons, and as the news spread along the streets a rush was made, first for the Standard office, then, all together, to where the men could properly air their en- thusiasm as well as quench their thirst. There were very few men in Olympia in early days who never visited saloons. but on this glad time no one w^as exempt, and if a man refused to do his share of the drinking it was up with him to the bar, spread him flat on his back and pour brandy down his throat until the crowd felt that a sufficient amount of patriotism had been imbibed. To this day the veteran editor's voice falters when he re- calls the reception in Olympia of the news of the assassination of President Lincoln and the impression made upon the citizens. "We had planned a big celebration of some local event," said Mr. Murphy, "and had brought the Fourth Infantry band from Vancouver at an expense of more than .$200 to play for the celebration and ball in the evening. At that time the first telegraph office in the Northwest was just across from the old New England hotel. The band was on the balcony of the hotel playing lively airs to the delight of the entire popu- lation of the town. The telegraph operator came to the door of the office with a face as w^hite as a sheet. Without speak- ing a word to anyone the operator stepped to the band leader and handed him a slip of yellow paper. The leader glanced at the slip and gave a hurried order to his musicians. Without PIONEER REMINISCENCES 109 preliminary warning they played the strains of one of the saddest dirges I have ever heard. "The crowd was appalled and when the last strains died away a man stepped to the front of the balcony and an- nounced: 'President Lincoln has been assassinated.' There was not a dry eye in the assemblage when the people realized the meaning of the message." When the Standard was started Olympia was a village of about 1,000 population, Seattle consisted of two or three houses with a store and saloon to represent its business, and Tacoma was unknown. There was a five column weekly pub- lished in Seattle — The Seattle Gazette — but the proprietor was unable to handle any job work at all, the consequence being that for several years every line of job work for Seattle and all of the territory this side of Portland was sent to Olympia and turned out in the Standard office. Among Mr. Murphy's proud boasts is that he was the first newspaper carrier ever employed on the Oregonian, of Port- land; and that he was an attendant at the first school ever organized in that city. It was in that city, also, that he learned the printer's trade, setting his first type on the Ore- gon Weekly Times, within two years rising from office "devil" to foreman. The Standard has fought the Democratic fight for the past half century with the exception of the civil war period, when Mr. Murphy upheld the Lincoln administration. John Miller Murphy was born in Indiana and left an or- phan at an early age, living with his elder sister, Mrs. George Barnes. When nine years of age the lad, in company with Mr. and Mrs. Barnes, crossed the plains with the regulation yoke of oxen and underwent all the hardships attendant upon the trip across the continent with that means of conveyance. This trip was made in the year of 1850, and Mr. Barnes de- cided to settle in Portland, where he started a store, selling general merchandise. John was put to w^ork as a clerk in this store, although little more than a baby. Among the pleas- antest of the recollections of these early days are memories of the good times the lad enjoyed as a singer in the famous church choir with Dr. Griffin, of the M. E. church, leader. iNIr. IMurphy, as boy and man, loved music and took keen de- light in musical associations. 110 THURSTON COUNTY In 1851 ]\Ir. Barnes decided to remove his store to Puget Sound and selected Olympia as the best known settlement in the new country. The contents of the store, together with the household goods, were shipped on the sailing vessel Mary Taylor, around from Portland, but Mr. and Mrs. Barnes and .Johnnie rode horseback across country. The boy rode the same horse as his sister, sitting astride, holding on to the woman to keep from slipping off. When Olympia was reached the family had to wait three weeks for the arrival of the ]\Iary Taylor with their goods. The store was the first in Olympia. ]M. D. Simmons, of Tumwater, had a trading post for Indian supplies, but the stock Mr. Barnes brought was the first general merchandise store on the Sound. The lad, by this time ten years of age, took his place behind the counter and was as efficient a clerk as any man would have been. The experiences the lad had with the Indian customers were quite amusing. He declares these people are the worst thieves in the world, or were in those days. When he would be measuring calico, of which the aborigines bought great quantities, a squaw would give the cloth a ciuiek jerk to pull the length a few inches longer than the regulation yard, much to the disgust of the young clerk, who spent a good part of his time watching them to prevent them stealing from the store. The currency of Mr. Murphy's early recollection in this section of the world consisted of Spanish dollars, American halves and quarters, Spanish doubloons, worth $16, and slugs, which were eight sided bars of solid gold, and worth $50. For convenience in making change the IMofPatt Company of San Francisco coined five, ten and twenty dollar pieces. While these were of no value as legal tender, everyone was anxious to secure the pieces as they weighed exactly the denomination represented and were of pure gold without alloy. There were very few dimes in circulation, no nickles, and to have tendered a penny piece to any one in those days would have been equivalent to an insult. The Indians preferred silver. They didn't seem to under- stand gold money, and gTeenbacks were so uncommon that they had no knowledge of them as currency. If an Indian PIONEER REMINISCENCES 111 had a sum due him to the amount of $5, that sum must he paid him in five one doUar pieces. Should a $5 gold piece he tendered the brave he would shake his head and say: "Tenas chickamun, wake tieky" — ^" little money, don't want it." Mr. Barnes kept a candle box under the counter filled with silver dollars to pay out to the Indians. However, the Indians had no appreciation of the value of money. If they could be in- duced to work at all they would work all day for the same c" mount they would charge for bringing a single bucket of water from the spring. The early settlers all procured their water from the com- mon spring which flowed clear, cold and delicious on the present location of the Chambers Block on the corner of Main and Fourth streets. The housewives would hire the Indians to carry the ^vater for them to supply their daily needs. The young Murphy, still of tender years, was set to work clearing off the block of land which was the Barnes home. With one half breed Indian as an assistant, the lad toiled all one winter cutting down the huge cedar trees, sawing them into lengths, rolling them together and finally burning the piles of wood. The work of digging out the stumps left by these big trees taxed the lad's strength and endurance al- most to the breaking point, but finally the task was accom- plished and the land was afterwards built upon by ]\Ir. Barnes and became one of the beauty spots of the city. There were no bridges across the two arms of the bay for many years after the town had become to be (luite a place, and from where Fifth Street now extends to Capitol Point was an imbroken line of Indian tepees and shacks. The entire por- tion of the town was comprised by the blocks between what is liow the corner of Fourth and Main Streets down to the water- front, and before the filling was done the tide came up to Second Street. When the Indian war broke out, and reports of the White River massacre was received here, the Indians were told thev must go. They remonstrated at leaving land which they had always looked upon as their own and did not fancy the idea of pulling up stakes and moving aAvay, but the settlers were In-m. As the alarm grew the citizens began to build the stock- 112 THURSTON COUNTY vde which Avas one of the most unique structures in the his- tory of the Northwest. This stockade extended clear across from bay to bay the length of Fourth Street. The stockade was 20 feet high, built of four inch plank. Crosby's mill at Tumwater Avas kept running night and day. and night and day did the citizens work at the defense. ]Men. women and boys all helped in the building. When the stock- •cde was finished all moved inside, those few families who had their homes outside the enclosure locking up their houses the best they could and seeking safety with the others. This con- dition of affairs lasted several months and until an armed cruiser, the Joe Lane, came up the harbor. This cruiser car- lied a lot of arms and every woman and boy was furnished with one of those long barrelled muskets, whose "kick" was more deadly than the bullet. To add to the defense the citizens possessed an old cannon, which ancient piece of artillery would certainly have meant sure death to the gunner if it had been fired off with any considerable load, was mounted in position to sweep an approaching enemy, and was the pride of the jjeople. When all was completed, the Indian chiefs and head men were invited to inspect the defenses and were shown that the whites were in readinesss and able to protect them- selves, but still they lingered until the Joe Lane put in an appearance. When they saw the white man's "big canoe" Jiud heard the guns thunder forth a volley of salutation as the cruiser came into port, they decided that quitting time had come, so "folded their tents like the Arab, and silently stole away," never to return to settle in any considerable number in the immediate neighborhood of the town. "When I first came here, among the ladies I can recollect were Mrs. Alexander, Mrs. Rider, Mrs. Forey, Mary and Barney Wood. There were always enough ladies to fill out at least two sets of a quadrille at the dances which were then the popular amusement. And such dances — sometimes lasting not only all night but two and three nights. Five dollars a ticket was the tisual price, with an elegant supper at the hotel. No jiunch and wafer affairs in those good old days. The Connell Brothers and their fiddles were called into requisition, but Oliver Shed was really the star musician at the dances for h? PIONEER REMINISCENCES 113 (.•ould not only play the fiddle bnt call the figures as well. There were no wall flowers. Everybody had a good time. "Among the business men I can recall during my first years in Olympia were Lightner, Parker & Coulter Co., mer- chants, the second firm to open a general merchandise store after Mr. Barnes; Chas. A. Weed, baker; I. C. Patten, black- smith ; Mr. Thornton F. McElroy, who started The Columbian I'bout this time, and two saloons, but as I never frequented them I cannot remember the proprietors' names. "In connection with my recollections of the Indians I lecall one incident which has filled me with disgust for the breed ever since. What was called a sulphur-bottom whale, probably 90 feet in length, floundered up the bay, one morn- ing in the early '50s, and on reaching the shallow water was unable to swim out to sea again and was stranded as the tide went out. This was a rich find for the Indians. They cut off great chunks of the meat from the sides of the whale, and when this part was cut into portions the Indians climbed right into the location made famous by Jonah, the insides of the immense fish being considered a special delicacj^ by the filthy things. "Well, I became tired of working for relations and wanted to go back to Portland, so I bid the Barnes" good-bye and started out to seek my fortune on my own account. When I reached there I apprenticed myself out to learn the printing trade on the Oregon Weekly, with John 0. Waterman, editor, and owned by Carter & Austin. Later I went to Oregon City and worked on a paper belonging to D. W. Craig. After a year I located in Vancouver, Washington, where I started the Chronicle. At the end of three months I sold out and returned to Olympia. "This was in 1860, and soon after my arrival here I started the Washington Standard, which I personally conducted and eidited until about a year ago. "When I returned to Olympia I was still unmarried, but had my courting done. I was engaged to be married to Miss Maguire, a daughter of the family of Oregon printers. As soon as I had established my business and saw reasonable prosperity ahead of me, I went to Portland for my bride. "We came from Monticello landing by stage, making the 114 THURSTON COUNTY trip in one day. This trip had formerly taken three hard days' travelling. But the roads had been so mnch improved and a generally better service provided that the trip had lost much of its tediousness. "For five years The Standard was published in a little building on the corner of First and Main Streets. In 1885 I purchased the land where my office and home stand to this day. "When I was ready to move my office I procured a scow and floated it right up to the door of the First street office, loaded my cases and press and other printing material on it and poled the scow over to the new office, unloading and getting the scow out of the way on high tide. That is the time I cheated the express man. "I well remember when the first pony express was started between Monticello and Olympia. The riders made the trip in half a day. changing their riding ponies every few miles. Twenty-five cents was charged for carrying a letter and a proportionate charge for small parcels. "Music, sweet music, was ever my heart's delight. I have always taken the greatest pleasure in music and although I make no claims to ability in that line I certainly enjoyed plink plunking my guitar. Many a pleasant night, in company with Jim Hays, Dave Drewry and Henry Willard. have I gone from house to house serenading the pretty girls. The other boys all performed on violins and with my guitar we made some very creditable music. At least, we thought we did, judging from the pleasant receptions we received from our charmers. We would assemble beneath some fair one's window and pour forth dulcet strains until we would see a light appear in the window, a signal that we were heard and appreciated. Sometimes the girls would invite us in and give us refreshments along with their thanks. "Well, the years have gone by. I have retired from the publishing field, but the lure of printers' ink calls me even yet, and one of my pleasures is in writing some of the pioneer reminiscences as they occur to me. "I served as Territorial Auditor for three terms, and was a City Councilman in the early '90s. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 115 "Early in life I adopted the slogan, 'Be not fearful to speak out, but be sure to speak right.' I can think of nothing more to add. I am down to cases. William Mitchell and my- self are the only ones still living of the men and women I found in Olympia at the time of my first arrival." 116 THURSTON COUNTY THE B. L. BROWN FAMILY That this compilation of reminiscences shonld have been started 25 years ago was never more forcibly impressed than when the compiler undertook to gather the chief and most thrilling experiences of those delate pioneers, Benjamin F. Brown and his wife, Mary Olney Brown. Of the eleven children born to this couple, only the second to the last child, Oscar Brown, could be located. Oscar has been away from Olympia so much of his eventful life, that, perforce, his recol- lections of the early Olympia days are overshadowed by more exciting events in his life. Twice around the world, mining in Alaska, hunting and trapping along the Natches Pass and still wilder spots, taking adventurous cruises all alone in his trusty sail boat, ranger and guide in the Olympic reserve, Oscar's life history alone would till a good-sized volume. But had the writer only been inspired to start this work during the life of that noblest Roman of them all, Theodore L. Brown, what a rich field of tale and anecdote could have been opened up. He was full to the brim of stories of his early experiences, and as he was older than the remaining son, could remember farther back along in the days when his family lived on the old donation claim, a couple of miles down on the west side of the bay. Benjamin F. Brown was born in South Orange, New Jersey, but removed to Iowa while still a young man. Here he met and married ]Miss ]\Iary Olney and after a few years of married life, the j'oung couple decided to try their fortunes in the Golden West that was then beginning to attract the adven- turous with its fair promises and glittering prospects. The long trip was filled with more than the usual hard- ships and sorrow, for cholera and scurvy broke out in their train and many deaths among the emigrants were caused by these dread diseases. The Browns laid two of their little children away in lonely graves beside the muddy Platte River PIONEER REMINISCENCES 117 The grass on the plains was so dried np and the travelling so hard that all the horses that the conple started out with died along the way, the oxen began to give out, everyone who pos- sibly could had to walk to save the animals' strength and finally the cows, which were being driven along to supply milk to the emigrants and for a start of stock in the new country, were yoked up with the oxen. Mrs. Brown told her children many a time, in happier times, about their finding a lone woman crying beside the road one hot, dreary day. Her family, horsee all had died, leaving her there on the plains absolutely alone The Browns picked her up and brought her along to Oregon with them, sharing with the unfortunate woman theii s'^an^"' store. Another of the many incidents of true nobleness ai.-v generosity that stand out a white mile stone along thp darl; path of these early pioneers. This trip was made in 18-16. and the first stop for anv length of time was made at Portland. A few years were spent at this place, and in the Spring of 1852 Mr. Brown, Washington ]J'rench and John French came on up to Puget Sound. The country was then quite well known and attracting considerable attention. Mr. Brown's family was left in Portland, while he located on a donation claim that was for many years to be the homestead. The Frenchs also took up donation claims and became among the best known and respected of the early settlers. Washington French married a sister of Mrs. Brown. When Brown returned for his family, he found that all his cattle, which he had left on the ranges near The Dalles, had perished the previous winter. All the live stock he had remaining was one poor, lone black cow. At this time an uncle of Mrs. Brown's, Cyrus Olney, had started a fruit nur- sery near Portland, the first one this side the Rockies. He raised his trees from apple seeds brought over the old Oregon Trail in ox wagons, and as the trees grew rapidly and thrived exceedingly well in the rich soil, there was enough stock on hand to furnish Mr. Brown with a supply to bring to Puget Sound and sell among the settlers. These young trees were peddled clear to Steilacoom, over what is now Chehalis and Thurston and Lewis Counties. One dollar a graft was readily •»aid by the settlers. This was the first start towards the fine 118 THURSTON COUNTY orchards which have since made Thurston County known for excellent fruit. Mr. Brown's next business venture was to build the his- toric wharf on the "Westside in partnership with John French. At this wharf were unloaded all the freight that came to Olympia from San Francisco for years, until Capt. Percival built the dock which is in use at the present time. Here steamers loaded wood, which Mr. Brown had cut and hauled by the hundreds of cords from the timber in the immediate vicinity of the wharf. Later Brown sold the timber on his donation claim to the veteran logger, I. C. Ellis, for 50 cents per thousand. Oscar Brown is still able to recall tales his mother used to tell her children about the exchange of courtesies between her- self and the officers of the naval ships which would come into the harbor. Among the army officers she knew was U. S. Grant, then a stripling of a lieutenant, stationed at Fort Van- couver. The story runs that Grant w^as then as wild and dare- devil as any. The mother's stories of their escapes from the Indians and the siege of terror in which the family lived for weeks, expecting an attack any night from the savages, are among the children's most vivid recollections. For several nights the whole Brown family slept out behind a big log, not daring to stay in their house for fear of a night raid. Finally the danger menaced so strongly that the family came to town and took up their quarters in the block house. During this time their son Theodore was bom. In the year of 1866 the Browns took up a homestead on White River and loading all their effects on a three-ton sail- boat, made Johnson's Point the first night, and then by easy stages the rest of their water trip. An Indian trail was fol- lowed when the boat was abandoned, and so on to the new home. Later, Mrs. Brown took the children to Seattle and put them in school, the Territorial University being the place where the younger of the children received the greater part of their education. Theodore and his sister Harriet, who after- wards became Mrs. Murphy, developed very pleasing voices and v/henever an entertainment of home talent was put on PIONEER REMINISCENCES 119 in the historic Yesler Hall they shone as bright particular stars. Mrs. Brown was a woman of remarkable energy and pos- sessed of considerable literary talent. Her poems and writings for the local papers were much admired by her friends. IMrs. "Coldwater" Brown the lady was called in later years when the family returned to Olympia to live. She earned this title from the many cures she effected among children ill with fevers and other ailments. Her cures with applications of first hot, then cold water, were said to have been quite remarkable. Far and wide, in the country as well as in town, Mrs. Brown was sent for, night or day. She always responded to an appeal for help with unfailing zeal and kind heartedness. Her memory is still cherished by the descendants of the pioneers. In searching over an old scrap book compiled by her son Theodore, was found the poem written by his mother, which is appended. It possesses true literary merit and is a fitting testimonial to the lady's ability in this line. Mrs. Brown died in Olympia in 1884 and was survived by her husband by about ten years. In 1891 the youngest son of Mr. and Mrs. Brown carried the first flag to the top of Mount Rainier that was left there. Some years previously one of the Longmires had carried a United States flag to the top, but had brought it away with him. Brown and party carried a flag staff with them and with great difficulty reached the summit. The staff was securely kept in an vipright position with a pile of large rocks heaped around its base. The colors Avere hoisted and waved out in the fierce wind which was blowing. Scarcely had the flag straightened out than the wind snapped the staff off clean and blew staff, flag and all beyond their reach down the mountain side. Two years later the flag was recovered and pieces of the banner sold on the street of Seattle as souvenirs, a piece a few inches across selling for one dollar. A sister, Mrs. Seth Murphy, died a number of years ago in Olympia. Theodore Lee Brown had always had a love for the old homestead, which had long since passed into strangers' hands. So in the later years of his life and after many adven- tures and wanderings, he purchased part of the land and began to build up a home. "The Firs," one of the best known of summer cottages on the Olympia water front, was built by him, 120 THURSTON COUNTY much of the work around the place in the shape of rustic seats, the artistic name over the door and other more practical things being the work of his own hands. And here it came to pass his life ended where his life had practically begun after a pleasant and useful life of 56 years. In 1886 Theodore married Miss Martha Strange, of Menasha, Wisconsin, and his widow makes her home during all the summer months at the place he held so dear — The P^irs. MOUNT RAINIER. (Poem written by jMa^'y Olney Brown, a pioneer woman). Beautiful mountain, grand and sublime, Thou standest alone in thy pride ; Thy base firmly fixed on the adamant rock, Thy head in the clouds thou dost hide. Say, tell me, how long since thou first was upheaved, From the bosom of earth thou didst rise ; Since the white snows have crested thy breast And thj' head thou hast hid in the skies? Was it when the earth in its primeveal state First came from the hand of its God? Ere the trees of the forest had spread forth their leaves. And the grass and the flowers decked the sod? How oft have I gazed on thy snow covered peak. With rapture no language can tell ; And thought couldst thou once be permitted to speak, Of strange things thou surely would tell. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 121 Thou couldst tell of the time when old ocean's tide First rolled its bright waves to the shore ; When beasts of the forest roamed over the earth And the birds in the air first did soar. Thou couldst tell of the nations that in ages gone by First dwelt on these valleys and plains — But have passed from the earth like the flowers of the field, And naught of their grandeur remains Save a few hoary ruins and burial grounds, By trees of the forest o'er grown; That tell us that since those nations have lived, Long ages, indeed, must have flown. But silent thou standest, in grandeur sublime And enraptured I gaze on thee still ; With feelings no language of mine can express- i\[y heart strings convulsively thrill. 122 THURSTON COUNTY MRS. JANE W. PATTISON The place Mrs. Jane Willey Pattison holds among the ranks of Thurston County pioneers is almost unique, for while every woman who came to this country over the Old Oregon Trail endured hardships and privations, dangers and sufferings, Mrs. Pattison 's experiences, as related by herself, were so wild and thrilling that the pen of the compiler hesitates in seeking Avords strong enough and description sufficiently vivid to show the bravery and genuine pluck of this little woman. Born in Ayreshire, Scotland, not far from Glasgow, daughter of well-to-do parents, the little Jane was brought to New York City when but three years old. Her life in that city is among Mrs. Pattison 's earliest recollections, and she can remember it when it was but a scattering hamlet with but a few thousand inhabitants. When Jane was seven years of age the Willeys moved into what was then the wilds of Illinois, taking up the occupation of farming. Here Jane grew to young womanhood, received her education and, in 1847, became the wife of James Patti- son, one of several brothers of a neighboring family. "You know college-raised people generally are not much account, but my people were A No. 1," the little woman as- serted, with a pardonable pride, "and they had me taught how to do a great many useful things, and a number of accom- plishments besides. But Father-in-Law Pattison was a man terribly set in his way and when he said, 'We'll go out West,' none of his sons dared to object. V\''e — my husband and my- self — wanted to go, too. in a way, but I didn't like being dic- tated to by the old man, but we finally decided to come along, though father-in-law was always boss of the train, and when he said stop we'd stop and when he said go on we'd travel, and it was that way the whole time of the long trip from Illinois. Mr. Pattison called for so many vexatious delays and was such a poor manager that we got caught out by the winter PIONEER REMINISCENCES 123 when we reached the Cascade Falls above Fort Vancouver. When we left Sparta, Illinois, there were the seven Pattison brothers, Mr. and Mrs. Pattison, senior, myself, with a three month's old baby in my arms, and another family named Willey, distant kin folks. This family, however, became dis- satisfied with father-in-law's management and left our com- pany before we were caught by the snow and cold. "When we reached where The Dalles, Oregon, is (but which was then a perfect wilderness), the men cut logs and made a raft for us to go on down the Columbia River. Our baggage was piled on this rude craft and we humans huddled on as best we could. We were twelve days travelling nine miles. The winds were so strong that we v/ere always being blown back the way we had come. The icy water was often dashed all over us and we were pretty thoroughly discouraged. When we reached the Cascades the snow was deep and the weather bitter cold. One of the Pattison brothers drove our oxen along the trail beside the river to where they could get some grass to eat. The brother then returned to help make the raft and when they went to look for the cattle they had strayed away and we never did find them. We were first snow- bound in the latter part of November, and on Christmas day we reached Portland. "When at the place where we were held up to make the raft our provisions were exhausted and we had absolutely nothing to eat. Had it not been for the kindness of an Indian family who were camped not far from where we were we would have starved to death. This family had a considerable stock of salmon, dried and pounded, which I always thought looked like the stuff they stop up cracks in boats with (oakum). This family was mighty good to us and let us have enough of the salmon to keep alive on for four or five weeks. In payment Mr. Pattison told them to pick out whatever we had that they wanted, and, if they didn't choose my clothes. So one bj^ one I had to see the articles of my wardrobe disappear — now a dress, then a skirt or jacket, and so on till my clothes were all eaten up and I had a good many, too, for I hadn't been married a great while and my parents had given me a good setting out. Well, by the time my clothes were all gone, down to one ragged skirt and jacket, the raft was done and v/e man- 124 THURSTON COUNTY aged to get on down the river to where Portland now is, but there were only a few log cabins there then. A man loaned us a boat and we went on up the river to Oregon City, which was a settlement of several houses. Our men folks got work on the road which was being built from this place to Portland, and we were fortunate enough to find an empty log house into which we could move. I didn't go outside the house; I was that ragged and poorly dressed I was ashamed, besides I had all those men to cook for, the baby to take care of and mighty few utensils to manage with. I didn't even have a washboard and it was no light task washing the heavy shirts for those men, besides Willie's — the baby's clothes. Well, one day a neighbor woman, Mrs. Moore, called to me across the back yard and asked me if I wouldn't like to do some sewing for her. I eagerly accepted the offer and she told me she would give me calico for a dress for myself if I would make her one. I was just plum tickled and when her dress was done it looked so nice and neat that the other women in Oregon City asked me to sew for them, too, so I began to earn enough to get my- self some decent clothes again. I was always up at daybreak in the morning and would sew every minute I could spare from my cooking and other work, and when night came I would make up a big fire in the old fireplace and sew by the light of the flames. I had no other light of any kind. "After about a year of this life Father-in-Law Pattison decided we would come up into the Cowlitz country. I hated to leave Oregon City, for the men could get work there and I was beginning to get a little used to the place, but we had to come. Our means of travel this time was down the Columbia River in Indian canoes manned by Indian braves. When we reached the mouth of the Cowlitz River we found one family already settled there — the Catlins. They were very kind to us and showed us many favors. Father-in-law liked the looks of the country and decided to stop there. A little shack was built 'way out in the brush and we soon moved in. One day a white man, heading a train of about one hundred Indians, came riding up to the shack. The Indians had their ponies packed with bundles of dried furs which they were taking to the Hudson Bay trading post, which wasn't very far away, on tlv; Columbia River. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 125 " 'Hello,' called the man, 'my name is Roberts and I am manager of the Hudson Bay post; can I stay here all night?' " 'Why,' I said, 'you see, we haven't much room,' but he said the Indians could camp on the ground outside the house and if only he could sleep in the house he would be satisfied. We let him do that and a very pleasant and talkative man he was, too, and very interesting. During the evening he told about having a ranch or clearing further on up the Cowlitz River and said he didn't see how he was going to get it worked, for it took all his time to manage the Hudson Bay property. Mr. Pattison didn't say anything, but I just wanted to break away from the old folks and take up ]\Ir. Roberts' offer more than I ever wanted anything in my life. In the morning Roberts went on his way, telling us that he would be back within a few days. The old man must have guessed what was in my mind, for he gave me hardly any chance to talk to my hus- band alone, but when Mr. Roberts came back again and we were all sitting around the fireplace in the evening I managed to get my seat right in front of my father-in-law's where he couldn't see my face and when Mr. Roberts began talking again about his clearing, I said, 'IMy husband and I have de- cided to accept your offer and go and work your ranch if you want us to.' Husband didn't say anything, but father-in-law was terribly mad, but couldn't object right there. So then and there the bargain was struck. 'When can you be ready?' asked Mr. Roberts. 'We haven't anything to get ready,' I told him, 'so we can go any time.' In the morning Mr. Roberts sent some Indians with us in a canoe, together with what few possessions we could call our very own. We travelled all day up the Cowlitz, and when we finally reached the landing were met by a Hudson Bay man, a friend of Roberts', a Mr. Gobar. A brother of my husband had taken the trail along the river's banks with the span of mules with which we proposed to plow the land. At the landing we were met by a brother of Mr. Roberts with a yoke of Spanish oxen and only the running gear of a wagon. I just couldn't stick on that wagon gear, so our things were tied on as best we could and Willie and I were put on one of the mules. I had a man's saddle and had to hold the babj'', so couldn't manage the beast very well, and when we were about four miles from the end of our destination my 126 THURSTON COUXTY mule bucked me, "Willie and the saddle off. I struck my head against the root of a tree and that is where I g'ot this scar." (Itlrs. Pattison pushed back her silver hair and showed a very perceptible scar above the temple). "Husband came back to see what was the matter, and as we still had four miles to go and as it was getting on towards night I just had to climb up on that mule again and ride him on to the clearing. Well, when we finall}^ got there we found that the house we had been promised was a good half mile away and not finished at that and it was raining hard. What to do then? There we were miles and miles from anywhere with no roof to cover us for the night. While the men were bemoaning the hard plight I looked around and spied a sheep shed that had been aban- doned the year before by the Hudson Bay people, as it was their custom, when one pasturage was eaten off, to drive the flock on to some new place. I went over and looked in and decided that here, at least, was shelter, for there was a fairly good roof and the dirt floor was dry, although lumpy and rough from the sheeps' feet. I called the men and started to fix a pole across one side of the pen to hold our bedding in position during the night. I then had our bedclothes unloaded from the wagon and made the bed so the baby could go to sleep. There was a big log right in front of the opening or door of the sheep shed, so the men made a big fire there and I got supper. As the season was getting late, the men had to go right to plowing, so they left Willie and me there to get settled as best I could. The first thing was to clean house, so I hacked a good stout branch off a tree and with long tough grasses I managed to tie cedar branches to this stick for a broom. I then swept the roof and walls of the shed, smoothed down the dirt floor the best I could and began to make my furniture. Not far from the sheep shed there had been a barn made of boards hewn out by hand and put together without nails, the joists tied together with rawhide thongs. During the previous winter this barn had blown over sideways, loos- ening a number of the boards so I could pull them awa.y. The only tools I had to work with were a hammer, ax and augur — no saw, and I would have given an eye tooth for a saw. "My first work was to put a floor in the shed, so I dragged tbese wide boards from the barn and as they were much too PIONEER REMINISCENCES 127 long, I slipped them along the dirt floor, letting one end push out under the logs, which didn't come quite to the ground. Many and many a trip I had to make between the barn and the shed before I had finished, Willie trailing along after me every trip, never whining and complaining as most babies would do these days — just trailing along. When the floor was done 1 hacked with an ax enough boards to go inside, and with these made a sort of a platform on one side of the shed. On this I spread a lot of hay that had been left in the barn and there was our bed. When the barn was blown over it left exposed some of the round stumps which had been used for corner foundations. I rolled two of these to the shed — our seats. After a long time and with lots of work. Mr. Pattison and I bored auger holes in the boards of the floor in which we fixed two upright sticks cut from the woods ; on these I put some boards, letting one end extend out through a crack between the logs, and so we had a table — all the furniture we wanted or could use. I did my cooking and w^e kept warm by the open fire in front of the shed. We lived there all that summer and until the crops were harvested. Later in the fall we moved into Mr. Roberts' house, a half mile away from the field, which the men finished in a rough way for occupancy. While in this house a band of Indians came by one morning. They came close to the door to look in, as we were a sort of curiosity to them. Willie stood in the open door watching them, and so came in contact with them. Their papooses had a contagious disease, but I didn't know it then. The baby caught this disease and died within a few days. I thought I never could get over that blow. When the crops were gathered we took the wheat to the barn of Mr. Gobar, our nearest neighbor. and flailed the wheat out on his floor. He gave us the use of his fanning mill and we had a considerable lot of wheat and potatoes to pay us for our summer's work. "One day while I was sitting at the door of the sheep shed with Willie playing at my feet, who should come riding down the trail but a white woman with a little boy astride on the horse behind her. It proved to be Mrs. George Barnes, w^ho was just married and coming to Olympia from Portland with her young husband. The boy was her little brother. John Miller Murphy. How glad I was to see one of my sex I can 128 THURSTON COUNTY never tell you, and years afterwards when we finally settled in Olympia, Mrs. Barnes renewed the acquaintance began in front of the sheep shed and we became fast friends. ]Many a night Mrs. Barnes would take her lantern and come along the trail to my house to visit me during the evening while my children were sleeping. She was a good woman and I will never forget her. "About this time we decided to take advantage of the Government's liberal offer in regard to donation claims. In those days to every man was given the chance to take up 640 acres of land and, as an encouragement to the women who had to endure the trials and privations of the wilderness, for a very few years the Government made the offer to her of an equal amount of land as that her husband was given, as a sort of a recompense for her hardships. Uncle Sam gave us women this land just as he would a new dress or something else we wanted real badly, for it was a recognized fact the women were worth as much as the men in settling up and developing the new country. Well, with an ox team we came to Tum- water, or Newmarket, as it was called then. Crosby's mill and store was about all that there was there. We swam the oxen across the Des Chutes River and went out on what was even then called Chambers Prairie, travelling through big woods all the way. David Chambers was living on the Chambers home- stead and we took up our donation claims next to his. Pat- tison Lake was on our place and was named from my hus- band. Here we built what was to be our home for many long, hard years — a log cabin, added to from time to time as the babies began to come. Three of my children were born there. It was a hard, lonesome life I led there. It seemed that if ever there was a hard, unpleasant thing to be done I was the one to be called on. For a few years I had no babies to keep me tied down, so whenever the neighboring women for ten miles around were sick, or there was a new baby came, or a death — any trouble — I was always the first one sent for, and I was nothing but a kid in years myself." Here Mrs. Pattison ceased talking for a moments and be- gan silently musing into the past. Her eyes grew dreamy and it was plain that once again the heroic woman was ministering the wants of the friends Avho long since have finished their PIONEER REMINISCENCES 129 work. A query about the Indian war brought her wide awake again and started her flow of reminiscences. ''Yes, indeed, I was in the Indian war, and Ivnew the in- stant Mr. William White was killed, for I heard the shot and saw part of the struggle. Mr. White, with his wife and her sister, JMrs. Stewart, had been to church that day, the two women, each with a little child in her arms, were riding in a cart, with Mr. White walking behind with the lines in his hands driving the horse, when the Indians emerged on foot from a little point of timber a little ahead of them. They began to struggle with J\Ir. White and the horse became frightened and ran away with the women. This brought them away safe, and the last Mrs. White saw of her husband in life he was grap- pling with a big Indian buck. We knew very well that Mr. White was killed, but none dared to go after his body that evening, so all night we waited in fear and trembling, not knowing what moment the Indians would attack our cabin, but we were not molested, and in the morning my men folks started after Mr. White. I told them to take one of my sheets along, which they did. They found the body where they thought they would. There had evidently been a great strug- gle before Mr. White gave up his life, for the ground was all torn up and trampled. Mr. White's dog had stayed by his master all night. The Indians had stripped the body of every stitch of clothing except the boots. Our men placed the body on a board they had taken for that purpose, spread the sheet over him and brought the remains to the spring in front of our house. They called me and I bound up the dead man's head the best way I could to hide the cruel wounds and bruises the Indians had made. One arm was broken and he was shot through a vital part. Then I spread another clean sheet over the form and the men carried him on the board to a vacant house belonging to Mr. Chambers. I followed on foot and that wasn't an easy thing to do. When we got to the house we were joined by Mrs. White and the neighbors. Among the most pathetic events of this awful day was the arrival of Mrs. Bigelow, Mr. White's daughter. Mrs. Bigelow had only been married a little over a year and was quite a young girl. She came galloping up with her four-months '-old baby in her arms, the rain simply pouring down on the mother and child. 130 THURSTON COUNTY My husband took the baby and helped the distracted girl from her horse. She ran into where her father's body was laid and I tell you that was hard, too. I warmed the baby and tended it all day. That baby is now Mrs, Tirzah Royal. "We buried Mr. White out in the little cemetery on Cham- bers Prairie and then had to return to our homes. When I started back, one after another of the neighboring women begged to go with me and stay at our house till the scare quieted down. So in all we were fourteen who were sheltered by our two-room cabin. Here we stayed for three weeks while the men were building the block house. This block house on Chambers Prairie was standing until a few years ago. As I had a big Dutch oven I baked all the bread that was consumed by these fourteen people, and I can tell you I baked every, and all day, too. "When the block house was finished we all moved in. The families who were there at that time and who had rooms in the block house were Thomas Chambers, the McMillans, Mrs. White with her children, the O'Neals, the Parsons and Mrs. Stewart. Mrs. Stewart gave birth to a baby the day after we moved in. Almost all our men had joined the volunteers to fight the Indians and we women, with the children, had to stay there all the time with one or two men left to guard us. We brought our water from the creek, the banks of which had been cleared of brush so the Indians couldn't ambush there. It was very unhandy to do our work, for each family had only one room in the block house to live in, and every- thing — cooking, washing, sleeping — had to be done in this one room. I got so tired of that way of living that we were the first family to return to our home, but we were not molested and soon took up our regular way of living. "Well, the years passed and we had three children who were ready to be sent to school, so we sold my part of the donation claim to David Chambers and moved into town, where the children could have advantages and see something. We came to Olympia the week Lincoln was assassinated. I was glad to come, for we were all good and tired of living avfay out there. We bought a place of John Swan, on the Eastside. which has been the Pattison home ever since, although the orchard that my husband planted has long ago been divided PIONEER REMINISCENCES 131 up into city lots and is almost all built over now. When we moved to our new home, Mrs. Bigelow, Mrs. Horton and a little later, Dr. Lansdale, were my only neighbors. We have had seven children, only two, my son James Renwick and Mrs. Brad Davis, are still living. My husband, father-in-law, all the Pattison brothers, my babies, all are gone, but I am still here." 132 THURSTON COUNTY LOUIS BETTMAN Louis Bettman came to Olympia in 1853 from the land of his nativity, the province of Bavaria, Germany, while a mere lad of 20 years of age. In company with his brothers. Mose and Sig Bettman, he opened a general merchandise store in the newly settled hamlet of Olympia. The location of this pioneer store was on the corner of ]\Iaiu and Second Streets. Indeed, all the business conducted in the hamlet was centered within a radius of a very few blocks in that neighborhood. Contemporaneous merchants were George Barnes, Gus. Kosen- thal and Thomas Macleay and Samuel Percival. There was very little money in circulation among the pioneer settlers, consequently much of the trade consisted in bartering groceries, shoes and dry goods for butter, wool, hides and some grain. As the price allowed for these commodities was very low and the demand from San Francisco brisk for every kind of produce, the profits accruing to the merchants by the exchange was considerable. In 1860 Mr. Bettman took a pleasure trip to San Francisco and while there met and fell in love with iMiss Amelia Coblentz, who was visiting in that city froin her home in Los Angeles. After a very few weeks' courtship Mr. Bettman persuaded Miss Coblentz to accompany him on his return to Olympia. The young couple started for Puget Sound immediately after their wedding. A journey of four days on a sailing vessel before Olympia was reached. In Mrs. Bettman 's own words: "We landed at Brown's wharf, down on the west side, which was the only landing place for large vessels then. My first breakfast in the town was taken at the Pacific House, on the corner of Fourth and Main Streets, with 'Aunt Becky' Howard as landlady. "We soon went to housekeeping in a tiny house owned by Judge Landers, which stood for many years on the site now occupied by the Mitchell Hotel. The place was then well IvOUIS BKTTMAN AND WIFE PIONEER REMINISCENCES 133 back in the woods and surrounded by tall, ugly stumps. I sometimes thought I'd just die of homesickness when I first came here, everything was so new and strange and rough. I thought I never could endure to spend my young life amid such scenes. But when the children began coming and my household cares kept increasing this feeling gradually wore awa}' and before I realized it I had gained quite a circle of pleasant acquaintances and began to feel at home and satisfied. "The people in the town then were like one big family. Every once in a while we would get together for an all-night dance. Everybody danced with everybody else. There were no cliques — nobody put on style, and everything was free and easy. My intimate friends among the pioneer women were Mrs. George Blankenship, Mrs. Rosenthal, Mrs. Chas. Burmister, Mrs. George Barnes and ]\Irs. Captain Doane." Mrs. Bettman was reticent in talking about herself and husband, but it needs no historian to recall to the memory of the old timers that Mr. Bettman was always prominently identi- fied with the prosperity of the growing city and at the time of his death in 1904 had accumulated a considerable property and left a reputation for business integrity and personal honor which entitles his memory to a niche in the hall of fame of Olympia pioneers. Three children were born to Mr. and Mrs. Bettman : Belle, Mrs. Oppenheimer; Josephine, who died several years before her father, and W. W. Bettman, the latter still conducting the store founded by his father over 60 years ago. Mrs. Bettman is best known locally through her untiring labors in the Ladies' Relief Society. For many years she has been chairman of the relief committee of this society and wherever and whenever she hears the call of want or distress Mrs. Bettman responds with ready sympathy, judicious expenditure of the society's funds and unfailing judgment. 134 THURSTON COUNTY THOMAS PRATHER A dark, rainy afternoon was devoted to g^athering such fragments of the reminiscences of that Nestor of Pioneers, Thomas Prather, as stood out most prominently in his recol- lection. Had the compiler of this sketch kept to original inten- tions and recorded word for word the story of Mr. Prather 's experiences as told by himself, the reader, as was the writer, would be led a merry chase from Boone County, Missouri, to California, back to the boyhood home again, then to Oregon, down to Panama, out to sea, struggling with sea sickness, to the Colville gold fields, fighting Indians, making love to the Pioneer maidens, canoeing, surveying, logging, always in the front ranks of action, and ever and always every whit a man, and now, in his declining years drifting into a quiet eddy, spending his days at peace with his God and his fellow man. As the tale progressed and Mr. Prather 's memory travelled back to the scenes and incidents of those stirring times a reminiscent glow came into his eyes, his form straightened and many times he would stride around the room in the ex- citement of calling once again from the shades of the past those friends who, shoulder to shoulder with him, laid the foundation of our city and made possible the prosperity and advantages the descendants of these men and women enjoy today. Although Mr. Prather 's reminiscences were often rambling and embroidered with many irrevelant particulars, his memory was surprisingly good and his unswerving loyalty to his old time friends and associates was a beautiful tribute to the warm feelings these Pioneers entertained for each other. The essential incidents of Mr. Prather 's life as told by himself are as follows : "I was born in Boone County, Missouri, in 1832, which PIONEER REMINISCENCES 135 makes me in the neighborhood of 82 years of age. I was the fifth son of my parents, and a hard struggle we had for existence on my father's plantation in the then territory of JMis- souri. My father died when I was only eight years old, and I can remember spending many a day in the hot sun dropping corn for 25 cents for the ten hours' work. "In 1849, came the story of the gold strike in California, and my brother James took the gold fever and left for the West. The following Spring of 1850, I said: 'Now, Tom, no more working for 25 cents a day, when you might as well be getting from $6 to $8 a day in the gold fields.' So in spite of mother's remonstrances, I left the school room, joined an ox train, and came to California, spending seven and a half months on the journey. "When I got there, sure enough, I went to work at once for $6 a day, and soon had saved up $250, which was more money than I'd ever had at one time before in my life. I was sick, however, and thought I had better pull out of there and go home. I went by water this time, by the way of Psnajna. "I had no sooner got back to Missouri than the lure of the West called me again, so in the Spring of 1852, when Judge Gilmore Hays and Andrew Cowen, as partners, organized a wagon expedition to come to the almost unknown country called Oregon, I tendered my services, which were accepted. "This train consisted of fourteen wagons, with a total cf 99 human beings, men, women and children. Among the emigrants were the four Hays brothers, all of whom remained in the West and became identified with Thurston county's early history, four Yantis brothers, Dr. N. Ostrander and twenty-five young men, the latter paying the partners. Hays and Cowen, $125 each for grub and for having their blankets hauled across the continent. They all rode their horses, as did I, myself. Most important of all the train's people to Tom were five (in my eyes), beautiful young ladies, who rode w^th us every day on their own horses. As I was generally a handy man about the train, I said to myself, 'Well, Tom. here's where you have a picnic,' so I made the charge of these girls my special duty, helping them mount their horses in the morning and to dismount when camp was reached. These girls were Kate Yantis, her cousin, Sarah Yantis. afterwarns 136 THURSTON COUNTY Mrs. G. C. Blankenship, two Ostrander girls, and Jerusha Jane Logan Hays, the beautiful daughter of the captain of the train. "One other special duty was assigned me by Captain Hays and it was to see that, every morning as camp was broken, that a pair of saddle bags were securely strapped onto a stripped mule, which was always ridden by the oldest Hays boy, and well I should be careful of these saddle bags for in them were $12,000 in $20 gold pieces, which Captain Hays was bringing with him to buy cattle and stock the homestead which he proposed preempting when the Golden West was reached. "Well, before the train reached The Dalles, which was our destination, I became infatuated with the appearance of the Grande Rounde valley and persuaded the captain to sell me a wagon-load of flour, bacon, sugar and coffee. I set a small 'A' tent up beside the road and soon disposed of the en- tire stock at quite advanced prices to the emigrants who came along the train and were running short of provisions. "I again joined Captain Hays at The Dalles and helped him drive a drove of cattle, v/hich he had purchased down the Columbia river, to the site of the City of Portland, although then but a settlement of a few log houses. "In the Spring of 1853, I came to 01.ympia, which was only a few years old. Did I come in a steam car? Did I come in an automobile, or even did I come in a dead ex wagou ? No, sir, Tom walked every step of the way from the Cowlitz landing, carried his blankets and worldly possessions and thought it but a pleasure jaunt. "When I got here there was just one white woman in Olympia." (Mr. Prather's memory probably failed him here for there were several women living here at that time, Mrs. George Barnes, ]\Irs. Alexander, Mrs. Rider, Lucy and Char- lotte Barnes, Mary Wood, Mrs. Pullen, afterward Mrs. R. H. Wood and several others who contemporaneous pioneers were enabled to remember). "There were about forty-five white men, and three chil- dren. I am sorry, but I have forgotten the woman's name. There was a big band of Indians camped on the west side, coming to this side in canoes for the purpose of bartering fish, oysters and berries for sugar, flour, bacon and calico. PIONEER REMINISCENCES ,137 "I especially remember John ]\Iiller Murphy among the white people I found upon my arrival in Olympia. He was then a fat, red-cheeked lad of probably ten years of age, liv- ing with his sister, JMrs. Barnes, and a favorite w^ith everybody. "The donation claims of Edmund Sylvester, Edwin Marsh and James Swan covered all that portion of the territory which is now known as Olj'mpia, East Bay avenue and the East side. Old timers still refer to Swantown and Marshville in speaking of these sections. "Charles Weed was the baker for the settlement and the bread he turned out of shorts was considered a great luxury by me. Of course, when a sailing vessel would come in from San Francisco there would be some white flour, which was eagerly bought up by the storekeeper, George Barnes and Weed, but there was never enough to last till the next ship arrived. Hov/ever, the store of clams was inexhaustible and the settlers were beginning to raise potatoes and garden truck, and once in a while a steer was killed, so we had fresh beef occasionally, and there was plenty of the best fish in the world, but clams and hard tack were the staples of life. "In those days the newspapers came from San Francisco about every six months, so we w^ere always a half year be- hind the happenings of the outside world. It was considered quite an event when finally a mail route was established and we got our papers only three months behind date of publica- tion. My first work upon arrival in Olympia w^as logging for Captain Percival, up the creek, w^hich even then, and still, bears the name of this noted pioneer sea captain. After spend- ing a few weeks at this work winter set in and the camp closed down. George Barnes then offered me $100 for clearing the block of land he had recently acquired, bounded by Fourth, Fifth, Adams and Jefferson Streets, which was for so many years the Barnes home, and which is now, so it is said, to be the site of the new railroad depot. As this piece of ground was then covered with high cedar trees and part of it submerged by the high tides, I refused the offer and spent the winter with a small crew of men slashing thirty-five acres of forest land for Nathan Eaton, nine miles from town, out on Chambers' Prairie. "As soon as Spring arrived I took a job as axman and 138 THURSTON COUNTY helped make the first survey of an airline from Portland to Piiget Sound. I stayed with this surveying part}' two years, when the Indian war broke out — in 1855. Then I quit sur- veying to volunteer under Judge Gilmore Hays, who was raising the first volunteer company in the territory. "The call for volunteers was made by Acting Governor Charles H. Mason, as Governor I. I. Stevens was at that time in the Blackfoot country, trying to make treaties with the Indians there. "This was in 1855, and our company comprised SO volun- teers. We were mustered in at Fort Steilacoom, Judge Hays being commissioned captain. Our company was then sent east of the mountains, as it was there that all the trouble with the Indians was reported, the Puget Sound, or "Fish" Indians, as they were called, being apparently friendly to the whites. "But we had no more than crossed the mountains than along comes Bill Tidd, the pony express rider, with a message from Acting Governor Mason to the effect that Col. Steptoe. in command of the United States troops, was surrounded at Walla Walla by 1,000 Indians and that the Puget Sound In- dians were also on the warpath. We were to hasten back to protect the settlers in the White River country. Returning to this side of the mountains, through the Natchez Pass, we camped for the night at Connell's Prairie, just about where the interurban line traverses the White River valley. In the morning Captain Hays detailed me and four other men to guard the supplies and wnth the rest of the company, which had now been increased in numbers by the addition of Lieu- tenant Slaughter and twenty soldiers from the United States troops, started to ford the White River to battle with the In- dians. As the men plunged into the river, the Indians, con- cealed along the banks on the far side, opened fire and about a dozen of our men were killed, after which the Indians re- treated through the jungle. As they carried their dead and wounded with them, we had no means of knowing how many of the enemy our men picked off, but from blood prints along the train they certainly met with a considerable loss. "Captain Hays and his men came back to the camp for the night, and in the morning, each man taking one day's rations with him, we started after the Indians along a trail PIONEER REMINISCENCES 139 SO wild and narrow that we had to go single file most all the way. We could hear the Indians not far ahead of us — their ponies crashing through the brush and dogs yelping. In this way we came to a branch of Stuck river, I think it must have been. The Indians were not in sight, but it was expected they were ambushed on the other side of the river. Captain Hays called for volunteers to wade across the river and draw the Indians' fire, if indeed they were hiding in the brush. After a moment's hard thinking I said: 'Yes, Captain Plays, I'll go.' Then Lieutenant Slaughter, William Billings, Joe Gibson and Joe Brannon joined me. "When I stepped into the water I went in over my waist into a chuck hole made by the Indian horses. My blunderbuss got wet, but I held it over my head the rest of the way across the river. Every step I expected the next instant would be my last, but we reached the far shore in safety and were joined by the rest of the company. The boys began firing wildly into the brush, but as I didn't see anj^thing to shoot at. I saved my bullets and waited before firing. So it came about that I was never really in an Indian fight, for after crossing the river the trail grew so bad that Captain Hays decided we had better return to Montgomery's, a Hudson Bay man's place, and wait further orders. Soon after this the entire company was or- dered to Mound Prairie, near Tilley's ranch, for winter quarters. "At this time Captain Hays was made Major General of the united companies of the volunteers of the territory, but as the time for which I had enlisted had expired and the war was practically in the hands of the regular troops, I was honorably discharged and did not re-enlist. "My next venture upon returning to Olympia after my discharge was to join Captain J. G. Parker for a trip to Vic- toria, B. C. Captain Parker had sent to San Francisco for a tiny steamboat, which was loaded on a sailing vessel and landed at the Etheridge & Miller sawmill, a mile below Priest's Point, and there fitted up for the sea. This small craft was the very first steamboat on Puget Sound. Captain Parker named her 'The Traveler,' and as soon as she was fitted up put her under charter of the United States government to bring mili- tary supplies from Victoria, for which the government was to pay $50 a day. 14b THURSTON COUNTY "I was made mate of the crew, and, of course, Parker was captain. Soon after leaving Port Townsend, which then the only port of entry, the engine gave a fearful screech and went dead. There we were, out of sight of land, no canoe or other means of leaving the boat, the waves of the Straits of Juan de Fuca all but rolling over us, helpless, and at the mercy of wind and tide. Then and there I made a vow that if ever I reached land again no more sea life for Tom. But in the morning we were sighted by a sailing vessel, the Potter, and towed into Victoria harbor. There we found that the boiler had split in two places which had allowed all the steam to escape. "We got the boiler repaired, loaded and was about to start on our return trip when there passed by our boat an Indian brave with a big canoe in which were his squaw and pappooses. I hailed the buck and in Chinook asked him, 'Where go?' 'Townsend,' he replied. So I told him I would tow his canoe and give him and his family passage on our big canoe to Port Townsend. He was tickled at the chance and I was tickled, too. I didn't want to go drifting around those waters again without some kind of a boat on board. "This ended my steamboating, although Captain Parker made several other trips on the Traveler, which finally sank near Port Townsend, where for years the top of her smoke- stack could be seen at low tide, although she finally slipped off into deeper waters and the exact spot of her grave is not known at this day. "I then went back to surveying, and in 1858, helped lo- cate the military road from Fort Steilacoom to Fort Belling- ham. I am the man who drove the first stake in a preliminary survey of the Northern Pacific Railroad, under supervision of Jared S. Hurd. This was near Snoqualmie Falls, in King County. About this time I acquired the lot of land on Wash- ington Street, which for so many years was known as the Prather home. "For twelve years I was county commissioner, which is the only public office I have ever held. I think I may state, without undue boasting, that it was largely through my ef- forts that Thurston County received the $150,000 from the sale of public lands to build the county court house, the same building which is now the state eapitol building, having been purchased by the state about fifteen years ago. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 141 "In the early seventies I became a guard at the asylum for insane at Steilacoom and took my third trip East in 187G, to attend the Philadelphia exposition. Soon after my return to Washington I was married at Steilacoom to Miss Agnes Winsor, who was also an attendant at the asylum, although for the twelve previous years had been teaching school. To us were born three children, Edith and her twin brother, who died in infancy, and my son Samuel. Edith is now Mrs. Wal- ter C. Thompson, and lives in the Puyallup valley, and my son is in Alaska." 142 THURSTON COUNTY WM. H. MITCHELL The following biographical sketch of Mr. Wm. H. iMitchell, one of our most respected citizens, was typewritten by his son, A. B. Mitchell, who is wholly blind, and is so crippled from rheumatism that he cannot walk or care for himself. This is a remarkable verification of the fact often noted that the loss of any one of the five senses renders more acute the others. In this, the sense of touch or feeling has produced a manuscript that is the equal of most experts on the machine. It is, therefore, published verbatim : "I was born in Chicago, 111., NoveniDer 13, 1834, and a few years later moved with my parents to what was then South Port, Wisconsin. The name has, however, since been changed to Kenosha. When I had reached the age of 18, I had contracted a severe case of Oregon fever and had made up my mind to take the long trip across the plains, my ob- jective point being Olympia. My parents objected at first to my going, but later acquiesced and assisted me in preparing for the trip. Accordingly, arrangements were made with Samuel Holmes for me to travel with his family as they were leaving that Spring for the same part of the country to which I wished to go. A horse was also provided for me to ride and on the 9th of April, 1853, we left South Port and traveled about nine miles that day, and on the next day, Sunday, my father and mother, with my sister Eliza, drove out with a horse and buggy and overtook our slower moving ox team. They took dinner with us there at the beginning of our long journey. They then returned home while we once more turned our faces to the setting sun. "The trail across Iowa was a slow and tiresome one on account of the soft condition of the roads, the wagons often going down to the hubs in the mud. There were plenty of others, however, like ourselves, making for Council Bluffs, and there would often be quite a train of us. We were generally WM. H. MITCHELL PIONEER REMINISCENCES 143 delayed in the mornings. I remember ]\Irs. Holmes, Avho would still insist on bathing her children every morning. She found this to be impossible later on, however. Council Bluffs was at that time a central point, where the emigrants got to- gether and formed their wagons into trains for the trip across the plains, and here could be found all types of the frontier life mingled together. It was here that a three-card monte man relieved me of nearly all the money that 1 had. This was a serious loss to me, but I think I profited by the experience. "We crossed the Missouri River, June the third. Our train, consisting of about twenty wagons, was well organized,, having a captain and train master. Our course now led up the north bank of the Platte River and there was no sign of hu- man habitation to be seen anywhere. We met a trader ocea- sionally, sometimes on horseback and sometimes they would have a tent stretched beside the road with their goods dis- played in front, but as they charged so much for everything they had to sell no one purchased of them until compelled to do so by sheer necessity. There were also bridges built over some of the rivers and at such places there would be one of these men to collect a toll before allowing you to pass over the bridge. There were a few Indians also, but they were not hostile at that time and never attacked us. We also saw quite a few buffalo and at one time it was necessary for us to open up our train that a herd of them might go through, oth- erwise they would have run right over us. I presume there must have been a thousand buffalo in that herd. It was in this section of the country that we encountered a severe thun- der storm in which the tent where Mr. and Mrs. Holmes were sleeping was blown down and they were forced to come into the wagon where I was, to get away from the rain. We ar- rived at Fort Kearney on July 4th, having traveled a little over a thousand miles since crossing the Missouri River. "We now began to see more signs of the hardships to which those that had preceded us had been subjected, as the trail was strewn with deserted wagons and stoves, in fact. with everything that could be spared to make the load lighter and everywhere was to be seen the bleached bones of cattle that had either died or had been killed for food. The Indians were also more watchful. On one occasion two young men of our train, thinking they could get along faster on foot, started 144 THURSTON COUNTY on ahead one morning and that afternoon we came upon them. The Indians had killed one and the other was so badly wounded that he died soon after. We buried him in his blankets beside the trail on the bank of the Snake River and the next day we were overtaken by another train and they told lis that the Indians had dug him up and taken his blankets and left his body on top of the ground. I have often wondered since, though I thought nothing of it at the time, why they never picked me off, as I was in the habit of riding ahead of the train and after fastening my horse to my wrist, I would lie down and wait for the train to come up. The only time that I was shot, however, was accidental. I was stooping down to get a drink from a river when my revolver slipped from its holster and was discharged, the ball lodging in my right forearm. It was removed by one of the men wnth- his pocket knife, this being the best medical instrument to be had. The Indians were around us and we would often see their camp fires at night in the foothills surrounding our camp. "We crossed the Snake River by caulking our wagon boxes with rags and using them to ferry the women and chil- dren across while the cattle were made to swim. Our stock of provisions becoming depleted, Mr. Holmes was compelled to buy from a trader at La Grande, Oregon. It was at this place that one of the men of our train had his wife stolen by the trader. I remember hearing him calling through the camp for her, but she had gone and taken the youngest child with her and he did not find her. "At Fort Walla Walla our train divided, part going down the Columbia River while the rest of us went on north and through the Natchez pass in the Cascade mountains. When we arrived at the foot of the mountains we sent two men for- ward to see if we could get over and they returned, reporting too much snow for the wagons, so it was decided to leave our outfits at a Catholic mission that was there and proceed on foot, letting the w^omen ride whatever there was to ride. "Mr. Wooden and myself were the first to start over the pass and we found the way not nearly as bad as had been represented and by taking advantage of cut-offs, we made very good progress and without misadventure until the last night in the mountains we became separated. Mr. Wooden took what he thought to be a cut-off while I stayed on the PIONEER REMINISCENCES 145 trail, and, at night, as he did not rejoin me, I called him but received no answer. So I went to sleep at the foot of a tree and the next morning when I awoke I found that I had rolled several feet down the mountain from where I went to sleep and it was raining hard, so after stretching a piece of canvas over some brush to keep the rain off, I built a fire and was cooking the last of my store of rice when Mr. Wooden came into my camp. We ate the rice that I had prepared and started on our way again, and that afternoon met a Mr. Connel, who gave us a little flour which we cooked on the end of sticks and ate. Mr. Connel was a very good friend to the emigrants and often helped them with provisions, as he had a cabin on the west side of the mountains, on what is now Connel's prairie. He was killed by the Indians in the uprising of 1855-6. We took supper at his house and then, after hiring horses from some friendly Indians, pushed on to Fort Steilacoom. I reiuained there but a short time, however, but went in a canoe with a Mr. Skidmore to Mud Bay, where I expected to go to work in his logging camp, but this I did not do, but went w^th him the next day in a canoe to Olympia, arriving there on the 6th of October. "My first job, after arriving in Olympia, was to split and carry in a load of wood for J. J. Westbrook, who ran a saloon on the east side of Main street between Second and Third. After that I worked at whatever I could get to do. I joined the volunteers to fight the Indians in the uprising of 1855-6. serving but twenty-one days, when we mustered out. After this I was deputy sheriff under Isaac Hays. "In 1856 I went into business with John Stewart. I was tending bar at the time for Mr. Westbrook and Stewart asked me if I wanted to go into business, to which I replied that J did. but that I had very little money. John, however, said he would speak to Mr. Hurd, who wanted to sell his baker shop, and Mr. Hurd agreed to give us time to pay for the business, so we bought him out and John, being a baker, took charge of that part of the business, while I did the best I could by tend- ing the butcher shop, which we had also. The first year we cleared enough to pay what we owed and also to buy the two- story building which is still standing on the southwest corner of Third and Main streets. "Perhaps it would be well for me to sa}^ a word about the 146 THURSTON COUNTY rest of those who were in our train when we crossed the Cas- cade mountains. i\Ir. Holmes and his family settled near Olympia. Bird Wright and his two brothers, with their fam- ilies, located in the Puyallup valley, as did a Mr. Morrison, who was a minister. Mr. Wooden went first to the Nisqually, but later moved to Seattle, where he started the first tannery. His son-in-law, a Mr. Schoek, also settled a few miles out from Seattle. Mr. B. L. Johns, with his eight children, one of whom afterward became my wife, located a claim on White Kiver, near Seattle. Mr. Livingston settled in Seattle, while his tv/o daughters, one of whom married Will H. Brannon, located near White River. Mr. and Mrs. Brannon, with their children, were killed by the Indians, and Joe Brannon, Will's brother, after the war, came to Olympia. "On the 13th of April, 1859, I was married to Martha T. Johns, in Olympia. To this union, five children were born, William Walter was born Feb. 29, 1860, and died about eight months later. Frank Wellington was born July 4, 1862, Henry William, July 30, 1865, Cora Edith born July 7, 1867, and Albert Bennett, born Aug. 7, 1870. There are also living nine grandchildren. "My son, Frank W.. died on March 19, 1914, in Portland. Oregon. My daughter, Cora Edith, is now Mrs. A. L. Young of San Francisco, California." PIONEER REMINISCENCES 147 ANDREW CHAMBERS Had the pioneers who built up this country, and through whose labor and enterprise Washington has grown from a beautiful wilderness into a land of homes and cultural ad- vantages, only taken the time and trouble to write down the history of their early trials, adventures and hardships, and — in many instances — final success, as did Andrew Chambers and his wife, Margaret White Chambers, the work of com- piling these reminiscences would have been reduced to the mere collection of the sketches and presenting them in book form. But too often, although these men and women realized their experiences were unique in the history of the world, and the days they might tell of were a closed chapter in history which could never be repeated, owing to the march of civilization, the task of actually writing down any record of events seemed too formidable or were put off to a later time — which time never came. But the children of the honored couple whose stories are given in connection with this article, were insistent with their parents, and aided them in every way possible to put their reminiscences in lasting form. Well they did so, too, for now both Mr. and Mrs. Chambers are gone to their last rest, leav- ing only cherished memories. The histories give a completer and more vivid descrip- tion of the life of those days than would be possible to ob- tain in any other way. Of a high order of intelligence and with a natural eloquence, the writers of the sketches were en- abled to I 'esent the pictures of those wild days with a charm and clearness that no words of the writer could add to, so the reminiscences of ]\Ir. and i\Irs. Chambers are given word for word as they have written them. Mrs. Chambers dictated her sketch to her youngest daughter, Nora, and the other daughters were so pleased wjth their mother's story that they had it preserved in the form of a booklet. 148 THURSTON COUNTY The ten daughters of whom the mother speaks of so lov- ingly, were: Elizabeth, now INIrs. J. H. Hnnsaker. of Everett; Eliza, now Mrs. R. T. Grainger, of Puyallup; Addie J., now Mrs. G. N. Talcott of Olympia; Ella, who was Mrs. II. Ray- mond, but who has been dead for many years ; Rheta, now Mrs. C. L. Denny of Seattle ; Selma, who died about ten years ago ; Margaret, now Mrs. Wm. Calhoun, of Seattle ; Estelle and Edith, both of whom died in infancy, and Nora, now Mrs. W. T. Hoskins, living at present in Sacramento. Mr. Chambers realized the wishes of his wife as expressed by herself, and ended a long and honorable career by passing av/ay peacefully in the old home on Chambers' Prairie. He died in April, 1908. Margaret White Chambers survived her beloved husband a few years longer, but sank to rest in De- cember, 1912. Husband and wife sleep side bj^ side near the scenes of their many trials, joys and sorrows, in the family plot in Masonic cemetery, near Olympia. Andrew Chambers' Story My father's reading Lewis and Clark's Journal was the means of our crossing the plains. We started the first ox April, 1845. Our company consisted of my father, Thomas M. Chambers, mother, Letitia Chambers, five brothers, James W., David J., Thomas J., Andrew J. (myself), John and McLain, and two sisters, Mary Jane and Letitia. My brothers, James and David, w^ere married, and their wives, Mary and Eliza- beth, accompanied them. We started from Morgan County, Missouri, and crossed the Missouri River on a ferry at St. Joe. This place marked the last of the settlements. From this point we travelled the old emigrant road up the Platte River. Our journey led us through what are now the states of Missouri, Kansas, Nebraska, Wyoming, Idaho, Oregon and Washington. Then this was a wilderness with only the old tracks of emigrants that had passed that way in 1834-5. We crossed the Kaw River about forty miles from St. Joe on a ferry; after that we forded all the streams to which we came. The first day that we saw buffalo was on the South Platte River and it was buffalo as far as the eye could reach. We ANDREW CHAMBERS AND WIFE PIONEER REMINISCENCES 149 camped and killed fifteen that evening. It took two days to jerk all the meat we wanted. Buffalo and antelope were plentiful for twelve or fifteen hundred miles. Hunters sometimes put a handkerchief up on a stick and the antelope came around to see what it w^as, and often we killed them by shooting from the wagons. We had to go out to the edge of the hills to hunt buffalo, except the first day we saw them, of which I have spoken. Opposite Ash Hollow we crossed the Platte River, which, though wide and shallow, was difficult to ford on account of the quicksands. We passed near to Chimney Rock, which rose like a great chimney from the level country. We could see this land mark for a number of days and passed it within five or six miles. At Fort Laramie, on the North Platte River, measles br )ke out in our family and we had to lay by fifteen days. We had overtaken other west-bound wagons on our journey and our party now comprised thirty wagons. While being detained here about one thousand wagons passed us and most of our company joined a party and left us at Laramie. From Fort Laramie we traveled to Fort Hall, in Idaho. We had tried travelling with large and with small companies and found that we got on much faster with small companies, but it was very hard to stand guard with only a few in the party.. We fell in with a company of fifty wagons. Their teams had been scared by the Indians and had got in the habit of stampeding'. They stampeded one day while we were with them. It was a terrible sight to see fifty teams running, each team of three or four yoke of oxen — about three yoke of cattle was an average team. There was no way of holding them ex- cept to hang on to the yokes and call to the cattle. It was an anxious time for the women and children in the w^agons. One ox fell and broke his neck. This was the last day we travelled with them. After leaving Fort Laramie we had fallen in with the wagons of what remained of our old company. This was all that saved us from the stampede on that day. This event recalls the first Indians we saw. Father was captain of the company. He ordered the wagons into two lines, the women and children to stay in the wagons, except those able to carry guns. I can recollect seeing mother march- ing along carrying a rifle. All the horses and cattle were 150 THURSTON COUNTY driven into the enclosure made by the wagons to protect them from stampeding. We never stopped, but marched along in two lines, with the wagons and the horses and cattle between them. Father stepped out to meet the chief, who was com- ing towards us. The Indians seemed friendly, but wanted to- bacco. As soon as father gave one tobacco another would step up and say "Me big Chief, too." Father gave them all that he had in his pouch. There was a large camp of the Indians and it appeared that this was a war party and that they had been out to fight other Indians. They were now on their way home. On much of our way, wood was very scarce. We always sent a party ahead of us to find wood, grass and water. We found buffalo chips plentiful for at least a thousand miles and often we had to use them altogether for fuel. On the Sweet- w^ater, in W.yoming, we caught a great many nice fish. From Fort Hall, we travelled to Fort Bridgers, which was about 200 miles north of Salt Lake. A man by the name of Bridgers w^as located here and carried on trade with the emigrants and with the Indians. From here we went to Sal- mon Falls on the Snake River, and here w^e met a few Indians, but they were friendly. Until we crossed the Rockies through the Devil's Gate, w^e travelled up hill and up stream, but after we crossed the Snake River, the waters flowed westward, and we could almost see where the divide came. From Salmon Falls we travelled two or three days down the river before we crossed. We found a place where there was an island in the river. We crossed to the island first and then w^ent diagonally across the rest of the river, which was about three-fourths of a mile wide. We always took horses and rode across the rivers we had to ford and found out exactly where the wagons ought to go. The fords were always thoroughly prospected before the teams wei:e driven into the water. We found at this crossing the deepest part was eight or ten feet wide, and deep enough to swim the cattle, the rest of it aver- aged about two feet deep. We blocked up the wagon beds as high as the standards would allow to keep our goods dry and hitched on ten or twelve yoke of cattle to the first wagon. The other wagons were fastened together, one behind the other. There was a chain attached to the tongue of the wagon follow- ing and that in turn to the hind axle tree of the forward PIONEER REMINISCENCES 151 wagon. The drivers went to the lower side of their teams to keep the cattle braced up against the current and to keep the direction slantingly up stream. They had to hold on to the bows of the yokes to keep themselves braced up, too. By the time all the teams v/ere in the water, the lead teams were in shallow water and we were finally safely over, Avithout wet- ting any of our goods. Shortly after this our oxen began to give out. We be- came uneasy for fear we could not travel across the mountains. which were before us, on account of snow. To be caught on the east side of the mountains meant almost certain death. We began to break in the cows. We started across the plainr,' with about twenty milk cows. By the time we reached Tho Dalles, in Oregon, we had about all the cows broken in. They were lighter on their feet and travelled much better than the oxen. We didn't know at that time that we could have saved our catties' feet by providing ourselves with shoes and nails before leaving the States. Three or four days before we came to Fort Boise, we were camped on a creek and when supper was ready and each one had set down to his place on the ground, an Indian, standing there, knelt down at the place intended for a man named Smith. As soon as Smith finished washing himself, he knocked the man over with a stick and took the place himself. Sticks which the Indians had used for digging roots or for some other purpose, were lying around plentifully. The Indians looked very sullen after this, and next morning one of our horses was gone — stolen. We travelled on as though nothing had hap- pended for two days and came to a place where we thought it advisable to rest the cattle for a day, there being good grass and water there. James Chambers, Smith and myself con- cluded to ride back that evening to the place where we had lost the horse, and it might be we would find an Indian camp and do something terrible. Smith wanted to kill an Indian. We rode all night and when we reached the place another party of emigrants were camping there and we found an In- dian there, riding on the horse which was stolen. Smith felt all the time tha/t his act had been the cause of our losing the animal and he was very anxious to straighten things out by killing an Indian. Brother James went around the camp one way and I, another. I came upon the Indian on the horse and 152 THURSTON COUNTY I caught the horse. Immediately Smith insisted on shootins;: the Indian, but some of the campers interfered. They con- tended that we were out of the way and that if we killed the Indian his friends would come and take revenge on them. They also argued that this, maybe, was not the Indian that stole the horse and they urged us to make the women in camp feel easy by releasing the Indian. After considering for some time we decided to let the Indian go and give him something to re- compense him for being nearly scared to death. He was so badlj^ frightened that great drops of sweat came out on his face. The next thing to consider was what to give the Indian. As it was coming on to the fall of the year, mother had sup- plied us well with shirts. I had enough to last me two years and I had on two at this time. They agreed that I must pull oil one of my shirts and give it to the Indian. So I did, and all parties concerned, except myself, were well pleased, the In- dian most of all. From Boise we travelled to Grande Rounde and after we passed the valley and came down off the Blue mountains into the Umatilla valley we saw lots of Indians. Mary Jane, my sister, was then a comely girl, about sixteen years of age. In- dian chiefs offered my father fifty horses and a hundred blan- kets for her. They didn't care whether the girl was willing or not. They wanted a white "klootchman." This was their custom, to pay for their "klootchman." ]\Iary Jane was frightened and she never showed herself when the Indians were around. "When we were within a few da^'s' journey of The Dalles, and after we had crossed the Des Chutes River, two horses were stolen from us. AVe went back from Fifteen IMile Creek to a village near by and called on the Chief. He said he would have the Indians bring in the horses. We waited about his tent, keeping guard, until an Indian came in with the horses. They claimed that the horses had been stolen by some bad Indians and that a good Indian brought them back and that he ought to have pay for it. \¥e had become accustomed to paying, so we were prepared to give a shirt. This satisfied them. Our trip had not been a pleasure trip, for from the time we left St. Joe each one of us had to stand guard about once a week and from the time we left Fort Boise each one had to PIONEER REMINISCENCES 153 stand guard half the night every other night and after hav- ing had measles, this was no fun. On October 15 we arrived at The Dalles. On account of the lateness of the season, we selected a place for winter quar- ters. This was on a creek about two miles from the Methodist Mission. Here in November, we built huts for the family and large corrals of logs in which to keep the horses for their safety at night. We watched them during the day. Our cattle were at large. We looked after them to prevent their straying too far. We drove them together several times each day. Several par- ties left their stock in our care during the winter. As soon as the family was in its winter quarters, father and I went down the Columbia River and up the Willamette River for a winter's supply of flour. This was about the 20th of November. At Oregon City we bought a skiff and about 1.000 pounds of flour. A young man by the name of Scrog- gins and myself, started out to take the flour to the farail.v. Father stayed down the Willamette in Tulatin plains all winter, looking for a place in which to locate. When we reached The Dalles, James and his wife left their stock with us. their oxen had given out, and went on and father remained with James and his wife until Spring. Scroggins and I started with plenty of provisions for our trip, which we calculated would be about seven days. On ac- count of stormy weather, we were seventeen days. Below Cape Horn on the Columbia River, we had to lay by in one place for two days. Cape Horn is a rocky spur of the Cascade range, two or three hundred feet high and almost perpendicular. This was the hardest seventeen days' work I ever did. It stormed almost all the time. We had the flour in sacks of 100 pounds each and we loaded and unloaded these sacks some- times as high as eight or ten times a day. The wind would stop blowing for a time and by the time we got loaded and ready to start it would begin again and we would be obliged to unload, the river was so rough we did not dare to risk becoming swamped with our heavy load. The wind blew either up stream or down stream. The family needed the flour badly, and we were anxious to get to them with it. Some days we would not go over a mile after working hard all day and then the wind would apparently abate, when we could not avail ourselves of 154 THURSTON COUNTY the calm. Our supply of provisions were soon about all used up except the flour. Flour and water, without even salt, was not very good to keep up our spirits, as well as strength. We mixed the flour and water together in the top of a sack and made the dough into long strings, which we wrapped about a stick. We set the stick by the fire and baked the dough, which tasted pretty good after a hard day's work. We varied this with noodle soup made of water and flour. We were three days making the five miles of rapids and seven miles of portage. The last day on the rapids our boat took a sheer and the one on shore had to pull so hard against the current that the boat filled with water. In the face of this calamity I thought the family would starve. I was twenty years of age but in my anxiety, I cried. This was the first, last and only time I cried while crossing the plains. We finally got the boat to a safe place and baled it out. We were sure the flour was ruined. We took the sacks out and let the water drain off, reloaded and proceeded on our journey. That night we built a fire and dried the sacks and found that the flour was not much hurt. We were lucky to find two white men and three Indians to help us carry our boat over the portage. Four days of travel up the river brought us to our winter home. We found all well and anxious for our return. As I have said, father remained down the Willamette the winter of 1845, with Brother James and wife, looking for a place, and the middle of January, 1846, he and James came back to The Dalles to help build a boat to move us. There were plenty of boats then on the Willamette for emigrants who wanted to pass on down to the valley, but a very short time after we arrived at The Dalles they had all been taken off for the winter. James was a boat builder. We selected a place close to the river to build our boat, where there was good timber. We chose tAvo large trees for the purpose of making gunwales, the trees being about three feet in diameter. Then we picked out (Smaller trees for making the plank. We hewed out the timber the proper length and squared it. This we lined on both sides the thickness we wanted to make our planks. We chose a PIONEER REMINISCENCES 155 jAace on a side hill to make a saw pit. It was so arranged that one man could stand underneath the log and one man on top of it. Then the squared logs were put in place and we ripped out enough plank for a bottom and a false bottom and for the sides of the boat. We used the old whip saw which is now on exhibition in the Oregon Historical rooms at Portland. This old whip saw told its own story, when in 1894, a gen- tleman asked it to tell of its adventures : "I started for Puget Sound from Missouri in 1845 and. after passing through the trials and incidents of an overland journey of six months, reached The Dalles Oregon, where, with the assistance of four men, I sawed timber enough to con- struct a boat 16 feet long and fifty feet wide. On February 1, 1846, the boat was loaded witli myself among the passengers and we moved down the Columbia to the Cascades. At the Cascades I took passage in a wagon around a five mile port- acre. Onr boat was the first boat ever sent over the Cascade Falls. The craft was secured and proceeded to the mouth of Sandy River. From that point my travels varied, sometimes by land and sometimes by water, up one stream and down another. Finally, in the Spring of 1848, I reached Puget Sound, after a tedious journey behind an ox team. In the three years of my travels my master alM'ays found me of ser- vice. But during fortj'-seven years, after I reached what was to be my home, I remained undisturbed and unthought of in .my master's tool house on Chambers Prairie. On April 26, 1894, the flames destroyed mj^ home and I was ruined and de- faced almost beyond recognition." We had no nails and the boat was put together entirely with wooden pins. It resembled a scow of today. Its capacity was large enough to carry fifteen head of cattle at a time in crossing a river and to store all of our wagons when they were taken apart, and all of our plunder that we had brought with us across the plains, as well as those members of the family who were not on shore driving the cattle. When we got the boat ready and launched we loaded our effects, wagons and plunder and all the ox yokes and proceeded on down the Columbia River. When we collected the stock to make the start our cattle were in good condition. The snow rarely stayed on the ground on the southern slopes of the hills and the cattle had opportunity to do well. But 156 THURSTON COUNTY not so with the horses. The Indians had managed to steal most of them during foggy weather when it was pretty hard work to guide them. We did not have more than three out of a lot of horses whose manes and tails had not been cut off. The mutilated animals looked horrible to us. There was always some "good Indian" to help me hunt the stolen horses. It appeared the Indians did not want the horses except to have a big ride on them and get their manes and tails. They made ropes out of the hair. Our boat had long oars and when Ave started two met attended to these. Brother James usually steered the boat and Father and David were ashore most of the time. We let the boat run with the current as great a distance each day as we could drive the cattle. Then we tied up and resumed our course next morning. We travelled on the north side down the river bottom until we came to Shell Rock, a place where the hills came right up to the river's edge. We could not drive over this rock, neither could we swim our cattle around it. Consequently we were obliged to ferry all our effects, and the cattle, to the north side, and travelled down that side until we came to the Cascade Falls. At this point we unloaded our Avagons. put them together and loaded our plunder into them, hitched on the teams and started out to make our Avay to the lower end of the Falls. Everything had been removed from the boat and the sides boarded up. Brother James and tAvo men Avho Avere Avilling to take the risk, Avent aboard. James acted as captain and the other men stood at the oars. We had several small boats so Ave took her out in the river and gave her a start, heading her straight for the falls. She Avent over, shipping only a nominal number of gallons of Avater. It Avas in February that we made this run Avith the first flat bottomed boat ever to pass over these five miles of rocks and rapids. Having gotten safely over they returned, after tying up. to help us Avith the teams and stock. We had to blaze a trai] to go through and prospect a road. We were obliged to go back about a mile from the river and pass through an Indian graveyard. In this graveyard the dead Avere all buried in houses, and Ave had to drive carefully betAveen them. It was an ancient burying place, for the houses Avere all decaying. I think it could not have been used for many, many years. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 157 After travelling about six miles "vve came again to the river just below the lower falls. We re-loaded the boat and pro- ceeded as before. The drivers took the cattle along by the river until we reached Cape liorn. Here we were obliged again to leave the river and travel out into the country and around this high promontory. We had to drive very slowly and it was hard work. On this trip we took a little flour. salt and enough bread to do us the first day out. After that we tied up the calves so that we could get milk enough to make noodle soup with milk, flour and salt. It was nearly three days before we reached the river again. At the mouth of Sandy River we found the scow and the folks waiting for us. Here we unloaded again and ferried our stock across to the southern side of the Columbia, at the mouth of the Sandy. From this point we drove the cattle across the country by Oregon City to Milk Creek, near Molalla, where father had selected a place for us. After ferrying the stock across at the mouth of the Sandy, we re-loaded the boat with our effects and ran down the Columbia to the Willamette and up the latter river to Oregon City. Here we sold the boat for $50. We put our plunder in the wagons and moved out to the place selected for our future homes, and set to work to build houses in which to live. The citizens of Oregon were of the opinion that Uncle Sam was slow in extending protection to his people on the Pacific Slope, and they formed a provisional government and elected Abernathy governor. The representatives passed laAvs saying that a married man and his wife could take up 640 acres — a mile square — of land ; a young or single man, half that amount, and that this could be selected any place, so that it did not interfere with other claims. Wheat was made legal tender for small debts at one dollar a bushel. Oregon City, being located at the Falls on the Willamette River, the Hudson Bay Company had a flour mill and a store there. Up the Willamette, the old servants of the company had settled, and taken up a great many of the choice parts for fifty or sixty miles. One prairie, called "French Prairie," was settled by Canadian French, and most of the settlers had native wives. The first settlers here cut hazel brush and made withes 158 THURSTON COUNTY M'ith which to bind their wheat. At this time the sickle and the reap hook were used. Then the cradle came into use and they learned to make bands of the wheat, oats, or other grain that was out. After putting in one Spring crop and garden in the JMolalla, we built a barn. I then went to Tualatin Plains, west of Oregon City, and stopped with Brother James and family. He had married a Mrs. Seoggins, who had a family of five children, three sons and two daughters. I, together Math these children, went to school for one term. The oldest son was one of my best friends, and it was he who helped me to take the flour up the Columbia to my folks. Tualatin Plains, twenty miles from Oregon City, was settled principally by Hudson Bay men, English and Scotch. This was a fine section of the country. Plenty of wheat was grown here, and new- comers could get plenty of work by taking pay in wheat, at one dollar a bushel. The wheat could be taken to Oregon City and sold to the company, and taken out in trade at the store, and a receipt would be given for the remainder. This receipt could be used in trading with other parties for any- thing wanted, and they, in turn, could go to the store and get goods and groceries with it. There was very little money in the country, so people were obliged to use wheat and these receipts as a means of conducting business transactions. The emigrants to this country had spent mostly all their money for outfits and a great many, even then, were very poorly provided for provisions for the trip. After school closed I stayed with my brother, James, and helped in the harvest. The barns were built of logs, two houses and a space of thirty feet between them, the roof including the three. The center was used for a threshing floor, aiid ten or twelve horses were used to tramp out the wheat. The farmers would furnish us horses and board and give us one bushel in ten to thresh out and fan the wheat, and. sometimes. they allow^ed us a team to take the wheat to market. While I was helping my brother that harvest, I did the threshing and my brother and Young Seoggins hauled in the sheaves. We threshed eighty or ninety bushels a day. One of the oldest settlers came to my brother and wanted help. James told him I could go and wanted to know how much he would pay me per day. The old settler said he would PIONEER REMINISCENCES 159 give me three pecks of wheat a clay. James told him I might remain at home and play, before I should work at that price. 1 told my brother to make a contract with him to cut and shock his wheat, and Scoggins and I would do the work as soon as we finished James' crop. He made the contract at three bushels an acre and board. We went, and put in thirty acres for him. We put up three acres a day, and the old gentleman was highly pleased with our work. His wheat was getting very ripe and shattering out so that he proposed for us to cut and bind in the fore- noon and haul in the afternoon, and he would pay just the same per day for the hauling. That was nine bushels a day. It was hard for him to keep help. One harvest Avas all that help would stay with him. Some of his help told that he recommended to them to eat the peelings off of baked potatoes. He said it was healthy and helped to fill up. I think he was correct about its being good for the health, if he followed his oAvn advise, for he lived to be 104 years old. The Winter of 1846 we spent in looking for a new location, thinking to better ourselves. We went to the mouth of the Columbia River and looked over Clatsop Plains, then south to the Umpciua country, but we did not find anything to suit ns. Father said he had started for salt water, and so in the Spring of 1847, after we had put in the crops, we came over to Puget Sound to look at that portion of the country. We spent two months looking around. At Newmarket, the present site of Tumv:ater, at the falls of the Des Chutes River, we found ]\I. T. Simmons and family, and five or six other families and nine or ten young men. They had settled here in June, 1845. They were putting up a sawmill. They already had a flour mill, a very small concern. The burrs Avere only eighteen inches in diameter and no bolting cloth was in use. Some of the families had sieves that were used to take out the coarse bran. At the present site of Olympia there was was only one man, by the name of Smith. His log cabin stood on the ground where the Huggins hotel is now. We finally staked out claims on what is now known as "Chambers Prairie." Then we returned to our homes in Oregon to make preparations to move to the Puget Sound region in the Fall. 160 THURSTON COUNTY Early in the Fall of 1847, we hired two boats of Dr. McLoiighlin, and four Kanaka boat men. We loaded our effects, wagons, ox yokes and bedding, on the boats at Oregon City. We went down the Willamette to the Columbia River, down the Columbia to the mouth of the Cowlitz and yp the Cowlitz to Cowlitz Landing— thirty miles. It was fine boating until we came to the rapids on the Cowlitz Eiver. That was hard work and slow travelling. We had to use the tow line a great deal and go from one side of the river to the other to take advantage of the eddies and shallow waters, so that we could use the long poles and push the boats up the stream. Our boats were heavily laden and for about fifteen miles we used the poles and tow line, the water being too swift to use the oars. There was a great quantity of salmon in the river. We had all we wanted, and cooked it Indian fashion. This was to dress the fish, run a stick through it and place the stick in the ground close to the fire, and as the fish cooked, turn it so that it would bake evenly. We always left the scales on till it was cooked. After working hard all day, it was fine — we thought, delicious. We arrived at Cowlitz Landing after twenty days of travel, the only accident on the trip being the loss of a rifle, a considerable loss in those days, too. In making the trip to Cowlitz Landing, we started the hands with the stock, horses and cattle, to cross the Columbia. All were ferried over at Fort Vancouver; then they were driven down the river to Lewis River, where they were ferried over this stream, follow- ing down the Columbia to the mouth of the Cowlitz. They were then driven up the Cowlitz and swam across the south fork. When they reached the Cowlitz Landing, they swam the stock to the north side of the river and waited for the boats. This landing is at the lower end of Cowlitz Prairie, which prairie was settled by the Canadian French and is a fine farming country. The Hudson Bay Company and the Catholic Mission each had fine farms there. We rented twenty acres of land from the Catholic Mission and a like number of acres from John R. Jackson, and put in a crop of winter wheat. When the crop was in, we left the stock needed to haul our wagons to the prairie (Chambers), which we had selected PIONEER REMINISCENCES 161 for our future home, and started to drive the remainder of the stock through. We drove them over Mud Mountain, or Mud Hill — all the first settlers travelled this way, and we crossed the Des Chutes about two miles above Tumwater. There was an Indian trail from Bush Prairie to Chambers Prairie. Then we went back to Saunder's Bottom and com- pleted the wagon road around Mud Hill. This hill is east of Chehalis. There was one family living there at that time. We prospected and blazed out a road. We found trees on the banks of a creek that suited us for making a bridge. We built the bridge and cut out the wagon road through Saunder's Bottom — a distance of three miles. The creek's source was from Mud Mountain and the banks were steep and muddy and could not be crossed without a bridge. We then came to New Market, one of the first settlements at Tumwater. The men of this settlement turned out and all helped to cut a w^agon road to Chambers' Prairie, a distance of three and a half miles. The old settlers here were glad to see new comers and they were ready and willing to help us. What they had they were will- ing to share with us. They were much pleased when they learned that we had sieve wire, for they had no bolting cloth for their small grist mill. They thought it a fine thing to have sieve wire so they could take the bran out of their flour. On the prairie we built a log house of two rooms, the smaller we used for a kitchen and the larger was curtained off into bed rooms. We then went for the famih^ and brought them over. We stayed a few days, visiting ]\Ir. Simmons' family. We crossed our wagons on boats, when the tide was in, below the lower falls of the Des Chutes. When the tide was out we drove our work cattle across Budd's Inlet and then drove out five miles to our future home. The fifteenth of De- cember. 1847, we took our first dinner at our home on Cham- bers' Prairie. Here our stock had plenty of grass and wintered well, so they were fat in February. We butchered a fine beef and had plenty of tallow to make candles. Mother had brought enough candle wicking to do several years. The candles were a great improvement on the old iron lamp in which we had to burn hog's lard. This lamp was made with a short spout for 162 THURSTON COUNTY the wick to lie in and one end of the wick came ont of this spout to burn. The handle at the other end of the lamp was so arranged that it came up over the center of the lamp, so as to hold the lamp level. A cotton cloth, twisted, served as a wick. Father put up a milk house, and, in March, commenced to make butter, and in April, to make cheese. Brother Thomas and I took up claims adjoining, and we milked the cows, morning and evening, for our board. We built a log house of one room on our claim. We made it a five-cornered house, the fifth corner being for the fireplace. In ]\Iay we dug two troughs and started a tan yard, on a small scale. We used the troughs for vats, and alder and hemlock bark, for tanning purposes. We dried the bark and pounded it fine. We burned oyster and clam shell and used the lime to take the hair off the skins. We made sole leather out of beef hides, and for the upper leather we used deer and cougar hides. By the first of November we had our leather ready to make shoes. We brought a kit of shoemakers' tools with us and father and I made the shoes. We brought with us a num- ber of lasts of different sizes. For sewing we put a number of strands of shoe thread together — the length we wanted — and we twisted and waxed this string, tapered the ends and put a hog bristle on each end for needles. It Avas a nice piece of work to put the bristles on so they would stay. This we could do to perfection. If they came off they could not be put on again. We made our shoe pegs of maple and dog wood, well seasoned, sawed the length and size we wanted the pegs to be. We split oft' slabs the thickness to make square pegs, and shaved the slabs to make the pegs sharp at one end. We used a stick with a notch against which we held the slabs and sharpened first one side and then the other. A strip of leather with a slit in it was fastened to the shoe board. We took two or three of the sharpened slabs and held them with the left hand against the leather which served as a lever for the knife, and, with the point of the knife, held to place by running it in the slit in the leather, we split off the pegs. The crop we put in on Cowlitz Prairie turned out well, and we hauled it over early in the Fall, or enough of it to plant and to keep us until we grew our first crop on Chambers' Prairie. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 163 The winters of 1845-6 and 1846-7 were very mild and pleasant. We made rails to fence in land to protect our crops. We raised plenty of wheat, potatoes, peas and other vegetables. We had wheat coffee, and pea coffee, and we could always change from one to the other. Boiled wheat and milk made an extra dish for supper. Father and mother were highly pleased with this country and they thought there was no place like it; fat beef off the range in February, and plenty of oysters and clams for the digging. One beef would give us sixty pounds of tallow, and in those days tallow was an important item. That same spring of 1848, we built the log barn which stood over half a century and finally had to be burned on ac- count of its being unsafe for the stock. It was built similar to those already described, except that this barn had five apartments, two for hay and grain, one for stalls, one for wagons, and one for threshing. It was a long, narrow barn, and all under one roof. The clapboards were put on with wrought nails from England, the sheeting was of logs, put on the right distance apart to use four-foot boards. Thomas and I had been looking forward and calculating to return to Missouri in two j^ears to see our girls that we had left behind us. In 1848 mother received a letter from our old home, telling about what had taken place since we left and among the news was the marriage of a certain j'oung lady, and this had the effect of making me contented to remain on Puget Sound. This was a sensible decision, for, during the winter of 1847, Indians broke out and massacred Dr. and Mrs. Whitman and many others at the Mission, near Walla Walla. The people of Oregon raised a company of Volunteers to subdue the Cayuse tribe, the only hostiles. They succeeded in bringing the leaders to justice. We, on Puget Sound, did not know about the trouble until it was all settled. The Indians here were friendly and they were glad to have the Bostons — as thej' called the Americans — come. About this time gold was discovered in California, and Thomas and I got the fever to go, as Brother James was there. 164 THURSTON COUNTY Mrs. Chambers' Story As Told By Her Daughter Nora I left my childhood home in company with my three brothers, my sister-in-law, two nephews, and a niece, on April 1st, 1851, to cross the continent with ox teams. My only sister took the road leading to Louisville the same morning, having been married to Presly jM. Hoskins one week before. I can see the wagon yet that carried her goods, as it slowly turned down a hill that we used to travel so much to school and church together. Oh, how sorrowful a day that was! We crossed the Wabash Kiver at Terre Haute, about 25 miles from our home in Sullivan County, Indiana, travelling across Illinois to Missouri, landing at St. Joe on the Missouri River on the 9th day of May. Here we stayed a few days to rest our jaded teams. The roads were frightful, the poor oxen would almost mire down in many places. When we crossed the river into the Indian Territory, I felt as if we had left all civilization behind us. My sister- in-law was sick, my niece much younger than I, consequently all the cooking and planning fell on my shoulders. None but those who have cooked for a family of eight, crossing the plains, can have any idea of the amount of food consumed. There isn't much fun cooking with sage brush almost as dry as straw. Sometimes the cakes — flapjacks — were black with the ashes blown over them. To throw them away and bake others was out of the question, for the next lot would have been the same, besides we had to be very saving of pro- visions. When we were all well we had jolly times, but my sister-in-law was sick almost all the time, which was a great source of anxiety to us. At times we almost despaired of her life. I used to think, when travelling over those rocky roads, often seeing the skulls and bones of fellowmen bleaching in the hot sun, so far from home and loved ones, that if we were spared to reach a land of civilization, I could see my dearest loved ones laid away with a tear. Oh, the thought of leaving a loved one so far away was perfectly agonizing. Often we would see parts of C[uilts that had been wrapped around the form of some dear one laid away, but both body and PIONEER REMINISCENCES 165 quilts had been dug out b}- the wild animals and the bones laid bare before the gaze of the pitiless sun. We saw some graves that had been made secure by heavy stones that had been placed upon them so. that the wild beasts could not roll them off. We had one funeral in our train, a little boy, and how sad it was to drive away and leave the new-made grave ! One of our sorrows was the loss of our faithful dog, which had accompanied us from home. The poor beast perished when we were crossing the desert. My sister-in-law was very ill — we did not know that she would live through the day. We had hauled water enough to last for two days, but had to use it very sparingly. I remembered, after we missed the dog, of seeing him coming along behind the wagon with his tongue hanging out of his mouth. Poor fellow, if he had been taken in and given a little water he would have been saved. Except for the sickness in our family, we had an excellent trip, com- pared with some. We had no trouble with Indians — only some scares. One night the guards came in and reported the Indians had frightened all the stock and they had run off. Of course, we prepared to defend ourselves as best we could. The wagons were put around to form a circle, the tongue of one wagon resting on the back of another. Then the women and children were put into as few wagons as possible and one man sat in front of each wagon with his gun ready to shoot if an Indian put in an appearance. We were greatly rejoiced when morn- ing came and no sight of an Indian anywhere. Sometimes we would lay by all day to give the oxen a little rest when the weather was so warm. Then we would start out just at night-fall and travel all night. In this way I missed the sight of Court House Rock, although we had seen it in the distance for several days, rearing up like an immense old building. Chimney Rock, too, "u^as quite a curiosity. We could see it for days and it looked so close at hand that three or four days before we reached it some of the company started to go to it but came into camp in the evening, tired out with walking a whole afternoon carrying their guns. The shape of the rock was very much like a chimney standing alone, way out on the plains with no other rock near it. We passed some very beautiful rocks very much like the ones in Yellowstone Park. On some of the smooth ones there 166 THURSTON COUNTY were hundreds of names, each one higher than the last, the writers having climbed up to see who could write their name the highest. The Devil's Gate is a queer freak of nature and quite a curiosity. There is just room for a wagon road between the high rocks on either side. We passed what was then called Steamboat Springs. The water was thrown up into the air several feet high. Then there were the hot springs, some beautiful waterfalls and many, many other strange and beautiful things that I do not recall at this late day. The most unpleasant part of the journey was throug'h the alkali district. It was white as far as you could see. In some places a thick crust or scum was on the top of the earth. Our hands and lips were sore from the alkali in the air. AVe would be so covered with dust as we travelled along that at night-fall we could not tell our nearest neighbor, as all looked alike. Cows, as a general rule, stood the trip much better than oxen. We brought one yoke of young cows that we milked at the home place, and more faithful creatures I never saw. They worked every day until August. Coming through the Blue Mountains, one of the poor creatures gave out, laid down and refused to get up, so we had to leave her and travel on. Our hearts were sad when we took a last look at one so faithful. We learned afterwards that a party coming along after us found her quite refreshened after her rest and brought her on through with them, which we were very glad to know. These two cows gave us plenty of milk until we reached the alkali country, when the feed was so poor that they had no milk for us. Besides losing our cow in the Blue Mountains, we had another remarkable event — the birth of a son to Mr. and Mrs. Ross. (They and their son now reside in the Puyallup valley.) We laid by for half a day and then travelled on as if nothing had happened. Mrs. Ross and the child got along nicely. The next event of importance was the crossing of the Rocky Mountains. It was a tiresome, tedious journey, and our cattle, after travelling so far, were very much fatigued. For days it was up, up all the time and the road was often very winding. The five girls that were in our train would some- PIONEER REMINISCENCES 167 times take what we called a "cutoff" and come out on the road a long distance ahead of the wagon. These five girls were Elizabeth White, now Mrs. D. R. Bigelow of Olympia ; Jerusha White, now Mrs. A. W. Stewart of Puyallup; ]\Iillie Stewart, now Mrs. Dr. Spinning of Puyallup ; IMargaret White, now INIrs. Andrew Chambers of Olympia, and Mrs. Durgan of Olympia, whose maiden name I have forgotten. One day, as we could see the road quite a distance off, we set out on one of our trips, which proved to be much longer than we had any idea of. We were climbing hills, tramping over rocks, through deep ravines and scattering timber, all the nflernoon. About as blue a time as we had was when our cattle were poisoned — every one lying dow^n and groaning like sick people. Luckily for us, my brother had taken along a much greater amount of bacon than was needed, so we had enough fat meat to let the entire company have some. The men sat up all night and cut the meat into such sized pieces as they could put down the throats of the animals. Consequently, our teams were saved and we were able to resume our journey the next afternoon. The trials and troubles of such a journey can never be realized. I think if the people had realized the dangers and privations attendant upon such a trip they would never have undertaken it. I shall never forget the first herd of buffalo I saM-. Such a number of them — perhaps a hundred. We often saw smaller herds travelling towards water. The first meat was a great treat, we had been so many months without fresh meat. The boys in our company killed three in one day and we laid by a day and a half and dried some. We made a scaffold of sticks and hung the strips of meat on the sticks, then built a fire under the meat. After this, when we wished to have a change from the dried meat, we would put grease in the pan and fry the meat slightly. I can tell you it tasted good after having lived for months on salted meat. I shall never forget how good the first new potatoes tasted. We got them in Powder Eiver Valley. One sees the most beautiful wild flowers in crossing the plains — flowers of every hue and shade and acres of them. 168 THURSTON COUNTY How I regret not having pressed and keeping some of the beauties, but that is a little thing to regret doing, compared with the many things we look back and see as we journey on through life. So much occurs to us that we wish we had done. Glad, indeed, was I when we reached The Dalles, on the Columbia River, for I knew we were nearing our journey's end and nearing civilization once more, where we could have the privilege of church and schools. While getting supper that night I suffered a burn, the scars of which I will carry to my grave. As it was very sandy here, and high winds jirevailing, Ave dug a trench to build our fire in. As I was putting something over the fire to cook, the sand gave way under my foot and I came down with my hand in the hot sand and ashes, burning it to a crisp. I could act the lady for several weeks after that. On the morning of September 16, we took passage on a little steamer that plied between The Dalles and the Cascades. It had just been built and this was its first trip. We remained over night at the Cascades, and there my brother purchased a flat boat and we loaded into it and started for the mouth of Sandy River, quite a distance from the Cas- cades. My two brothers, with two nephews and the rest of the men, drove the cattle down the trail along the Columbia, and a hard old time they had of it, too. AVhen we reached Sandy we found quite a nice farm house and a good garden of vegetables, which looked inviting after our six months' diet of dried beans, rice, bacon, dried apples and peaches. Although we had so much to be thankful for. as we had an ample supply, and some to spare, which was more than some could say. Some were very scarce of provisions, but none were in want in our train. Here (at Sandy) we camped on the banks of the Cohnnbia, while my brothers took a contract for building a ferry boat for the man who lived there — a man named Parker. It was perhaps two weeks before our men with the cattle arrived, and we were very glad to see them once more. The boat being finished, we ferried across the Columbia and found a very nice settlement on the river bottom after crossing over. My brother and his wife stopped here to take PIONEER REMINISCENCES 169 care of the stock, as there was an abundance of good pasturage to be had very reasonably. My other brothers and two nephews, my niece and myself went to a little town between Portland and Oregon City — -Milwaukee. There we rented a house and went to school for the winter. We soon made some pleasant acquaintances, as all were newcomers and it was a small town. We attended singing school and some few dancing parties, only to look on. I had never seen nor heard a violin before, nor seen any dancing. My people were all very strict Presbyterians and we were never allowed to indulge in such amusements. In September of the same year my brothers decided to come to Puget Sound to see if they liked the country better, as Ave were not favorably impressed with Oregon. As they were pleased, they returned for us and we all came to this part of the country — Chambers' Prairie, Thurston County, in October, 1852. We spent the winter at the eastern extremity of the prairie, on the place where the widow Collins now lives, but which was owned by Mr. Nathan Eaton at that time. My brothers did the first fencing he had done on the prairie. They put in grain on shares and looked around for claims. IMy two brothers and a nephcAv took donation claims adjoining each other. The latter part of the winter of 1853 my brothers split and sawed all the lumber for their houses, as saw mills were unknown in this section in those days. We had puncheon floors. For fear you will not know what that is, I will tell you. It is a floor laid with split logs, the flat side being uppermost. The logs were of cedar and the floor was nice and white when scrubbed with sand and cold water. We girls used to be very proud of our white floors. I think it was in April, 1853, that we moved into our new home. We girls were the housekeepers for my brothers and nephews. My married brother lived a mile from us, on the place where ]Mr. Stralehm now lives. That summer was a very dreary one for us, as we had never been where there were forest fires before. We feared that the fire might come on us at any time as the grass on the prairie was very thick and dry. For days the sun hung like a 170 THURSTON COUNTY ball of fire in the heavens. When the rain came and cleared the smoke awaj'' all was again pleasant and we soon forgot our disagreeable times. Our housekeeping for my brothers was of short duration, as my neiee decided to become somebody's else housekeeper. On the morning of September 22, 1853, she was married to A. W. Stewart, a young man who had crossed the plains with us. After her departure I made my home with my brother and his wife until January, 1854. On the 18th of that month I was married to Andrew J. Chambers, and came to reside in this house. We have spent our lives here since then, and, by the laws of Nature, we haven't many more years to live, but hope we shall live them here, where we have seen our greatest joys and sor- rows. I must say that I had never known what true happiness was until I was married, as I had never knov/n the love of father or mother. I found great happiness in a loving, affec- tionate husband. I only hope that all my daughters may be as happy in marriage as their mother. We have raised a large family of girls (that we are more than proud of) ten in number, seven of whom are still living to cheer our declin- ing days. The Indian war of 1855-56 was a trying time for the new settlers. About this time I had a bad scare. Although the Indians east of the mountains were on the war path and we heard ail kinds of rumors of their intention to take our section of the country, the Sound Indians were apparently friendly. An Indian lad who had worked for us told us we were in danger, but we paid little attention to him, although I was frightened and uneasy. A brother of my husband's lived a mile from us, on the place his father had settled in 1848. This brother and a young man who lived with him were sitting out in front of their cabin, in the twilight, one evening within hearing of the Indian camp. As they understood the Indian langaiage and heard their names mentioned, they listened and heard an old Indian say, as he passed his finger over the sharp edge of a knife he had bought from John Chambers: "Little did John think he was selling me the knife to kill him with." Then they talked and planned how they could execute their PIONEER REMINISCENCES 171 bloody work, and about this time the boys made tracks for our house, so scared that they even left their guns. How well I remember that night ! When we heard the gate open and shut, Mr. Chambers sprang out of bed and grasped his gun. I tell 3'ou, those boys made tracks when they heard him, for they knew he had his revolvers and gun ready. As soon as they could speak they called to him, and I can tell you we were relieved when we heard who it was. Oh, how I shook! Just like one with the ague. Then the men sat up on guard and run bullets all night, as that was the onl^^ kind of ammunition we had in those days. Earl}'' the next morning the boys returned to their home to see how things looked. The old Indian was as fine as he could be, and wanted to be very gracious. He had told John Chambers some time before that he had come to camp by him and was going to live and die by him. The old hypocrite ! When he saw the boys he asked them w^here they slept. They replied: "In bed." "Not here," he said. Then they asked him how he knew. He said they were in the house for some medicine for a sick child, which was another story. Very soon we heard of men being waylaid and shot, and the country was all excitement. Shortly the people began to gather into forts to protect themselves. The fort for this part of the country was on our place and is still in use as a barn. There were block houses on each corner. At one time there were thirty-two families in this fort. There were any number of children and dogs, and, consequently, any amount of music, especially of evenings. We had many startling events, of which I well remember one. My husband was lieutenant of the company of volunteers within the fort, so he was ordered by the captain of the company to take a number of men and make a scout through the neighborhood and see if there were any Indians prowling around. Tliey mounted their horses about five o'clock one afternoon and rode away toward Yelm Prairie. Shortly afterwards the command was given for every man to get his gun and stand in readiness, as the Indians might attack the fort at any moment, as they had undoubtedly attacked the men who had gone on the scouting expedition, for 172 THURSTON COUNTY they had heard the report of several gnns in the direction they had gone. Such a commotion ! My feelings can better be imagined and described, but time told us our fears were groundless. That was a long night. Not a wink of sleep for me. Morning came, but no signs of Indians. The men were out two days and never saw nor heard an Indian. How rejoiced I was when I saw my good husband again ! There was one man in the company who used to give us a scare by firing his gun while on guard. The orders were not a gun was to be shot unless at an Indian. Knowing this, imagine yourself, sitting by the fire, with everything quiet, and then hear one shot after another! The old man always said he saw Indians. The war broke out in October, 1855, and ended in June. 1856. The last battle was fought east of the mountains. There is a great deal more that I could write, but time will not permit me. JACOB OTT AND WIFE PIONEER REMINISCENCES 173 MRS. JACOB OTT "I wish Mr. Ott were here to tell you about the exciting experiences he went through in early days," said Mrs. Jacob Ott, when interviewed and asked to tell the story of her life in Olympia. "I never knew any hardships, and, although the life in America was new and strange to me, upon my arrival from my girlhood home in Switzerland, I was always com- fortable. All dangers from Indian outrages was over and civilization was quite well advanced. "But when Mr. Ott came to America in 1850, he found the country very different from what he had been accustomed to. He was also born in Switzerland and it was there that he learned his trade of carpenter. When quite a young man he came to this country, stopping first in St. Louis. Later he joined a train of emigrants bound for the Golden "West. All places were alike to the young man, adventure, and perhaps a chance to gather some of the gold he heard so much about, was what he was looking for. The trip was made in the regulation way — ox teams — to Portland, Oregon. After six months in that settlement, Mr. Ott heard so much talk of the opportunities to be found on Puget Sound, that he determined to try his luck there. Tumwater was the only place of any importance then, so he came, arriving here in 1852. From Montieello Landing, Mr. Ott made the trip to Tumwater on horseback. The prospects of this section of the Northwest looked good to him, so he decided to stay here. "Among the first things Mr. Ott did was to buy a num- ber of lots of timber land in the town and begin clearing them off. The lots were very heavily wooded, and almost the first thing that happened to the young man was an incident that at the time frightened him into a cold perspiration. One morn- ing he had laid his ax at the root of a tall fir and had it chopped part way through, so the mighty trunk began to l)end towards the ground, when there dropped at the feet of the 174 THURSTON COUNTY yoimg woodsman a small Indian baby, which had apparently only been dead a short time. ]Mr. Ott was simply paralyzed with fear and for a while thought the child must have been thrown at him by some unseen Indians as a menace of some sort. But after a while it occurred to him to examine the top branches of the tree, and there he discovered the rude cradle in which the papoose had been put to sleep his last sleep. A further search disclosed three other Indians repos- ing in the tree tops and then it dawned on him that he had intruded on an Indian 'burying' ground, if I may call it that. The experience was an unusual one to a young man fresh to the manners and customs of the wilderness. He always looked carefully in the branches of a tree before beginning cutting after that. "Before Mr. Ott had lived in the West very long, he took up a claim, five miles out from Tumwater, and built a little shack on the land, living there alone while he cleared and got the place ready for planting. "He didn't spend much time or labor on the house and used shakes he cut himself, in the construction. So flimsy was the structure that many a night he stood guard all night long, with an ax in his hands, to protect himself and pro- visions from the cougars, which whined and growled at the rude door and threatened to break in at any moment. The wild animals smelled the meat which Mr. Ott would have in his shack and were determined to have their share. This lasted till he could take time to build a more secure house. "Mr. Ott served his six months in the Indian war. as did most of the men living here in the days of the trouble with the Indians. His special work was teaming for the government, hauling supplies to the forts and wherever troops were sta- tioned. As the rascals were anxious for the provisions and blankets, with which the wagons were loaded, this was con- sidered to be especially dangerous, and Mr. Ott used to tell me about sleeping at nights holding the lariat ropes of his cattle all night long to prevent a stampede. "One night, I remember my husband telling me about, the Indians were all around the teams and an ambush was feared at any moment. There were five or six teamsters in the train and their wagons were loaded with what would have been a PIONEER REMINISCENCES 175 rich haul for the Indians. Night was coming on and the men were worried at the prospects of camping there, being al- most sure they would be attacked before morning. A halt was called to discuss the situation when there was seen com- ing toAvards them, the most wrinkled old squaw the eye of man had ever beheld. She must have passed the century mark in years, so old and feeble did she appear. Holding up her hand in sign of peace, she came up to the men, and in Chinook, told them not to go that way that night for they would surely be killed if they did, but instead to camp for the night under a certain tree which stood all by itself ozi a cleared place a little way off. "The men didn't know anything better to do, although they were afraid of treachery on the part of the squaw. But after a consultation, they decided to take the warning and camp where the squaw directed them to do. ''Sure enough, the tree was found just as had been de- scribed and when the teams reached the spot, the wagons Avere corraled and the men prepared to spend, the night. They were not molested, and in the morning proceeded on their way in peace. The mystery of the squaw's protection wsls never ex- plained, nor why they were not attacked during the night. IMr. Ott often wondered if there was not some sort of an Indian superstition about the tree which safeguarded anyone who sought shelter beneath its branches. "After a number of years, Mr. Ott prospered so well that he began to think he would like to see his boyhood home and friends again, so he went back to Switzerland on a visit. While there he met me, then quite a young girl, and induced me to come to America with him. We were passengers on the second train that ever started to cross the continent. "When I arrived here I couldn't tell 'yes' from 'no' in English, and I thought I never would be able to make my- self understood. I could have learned Chinook quicker than I did English, only I was so afraid of the Indians. Mr. Ott was a favorite with them and when we got here they came in dusky swarms, crowding right up to the door of the house to see Jake's wife. I nearly died, I was so frightened of them. "I was that lonesome and homesick that Avhen my Henry 176 THURSTON COUNTY was born I thought if anything should happen to that baby I'd just end it all by jumping into the bay. But he kept me from moping around much, for he was the greatest care for a long time. The poor little thing was so tiny that for the first six weeks w^e kept him in a ten-pound tea box, wrapped in cotton. He was too small to dress and when he was big enough to handle, I had to make him a complete new ward- robe, for everything I had made before he was born was too large for him. "When we finally decided to move from Tumwater and came to Olympia, Mr. Ott built this house, where we have lived ever since. Every stick in the house was put here by Mr. Ott's own hands. "Fifteen years ago, in August, 1899, my husband died in this house, after an illness of only a few moments, so ful- filling the desire of his later years that when Death called him he would go quick. "We have had three children, Henrj', born February 18, 1870; Walter, born in Baker, Oregon, March 20, 1872; Ger- trude, born at Globe, .Arizona, February 28, 1875." PIONEER REMINISCENCES 177 DR. ALONZO GERRY COOK While not a Thurston County pioneer within the strictest meaning of the term, Dr. Alonzo Gerry Cook has spent so many summers with his daughter, Mrs. Millard Lemon, on Fuget Sound, and during his younger manhood so frequently visited the Territorial capital in pursuit of official duty, that a history of this section would be incomplete without some mention of this grand old man and his devoted wife. Born in Portland, Maine, on May 13, 1839, the young Alonzo spent his infant years at this place, accompanying his parents to Illinois, settling about sixty miles from Chicago. Here he grew to j^oung manhood, and after graduating from a law school, was admitted to practice law. In 1861 ]Mr. Cook met and married Miss Isabella Webster. Dr. Cook's tribute to the devotion of his wife was beautiful. He said: "My wife, born in London, England, came to America in a sailing vessel before steam was commonly used. The ocean trip con- sumed six weeks, then through the Erie Canal to Buffalo, and then through Lake Erie to Ohio. Later, after our marriage, to Washington, then to Long Beach and Los Angeles — cows, mules and stage being the means of conveyance for the three times this noble woman has accompanied me across the plains. In later years we have taken the trip several times with all the luxury and conveniences furnished by the Pullman Com- pany, but Mrs. Cook was as cheerful and uncomplaining dur- ing those days of hardship and trial as she was when we traveled in comfort." In the Spring of 1862, Mr. Cook and his girl bride started to cross the plains with a team of four cows. After the usual hardships attendant on the emigrant trip, the young couple finally reached The Dalles. Two of their cows succumbed to the rigors of the trip and the wagon was hauled the last stages of the journey by the two remaining animals. Dr. Cook tells as characteristic the way these pioneer emigrants had to manage, how the Snake River was crossed in those days long before man had set a pier or placed a stick in the building of bridges across any of the Avestern streams. "We took off 178 THURSTON COUNTY the wagon bed, when we came to Snake River, unloaded our plunder and my wife spared a garment and I spared another, to tear into strips. With these we caulked the wagon box the best we could and put it in shallow water to soak over night. In the morning, partly loading our equipment in the box, we started to paddle over. I steered and rowed the ex- temporized craft the best I could, but the water rushed in in spite of our caulking, so my wife bailed for dear life till we landed on the far shore. Then we had to return, and make the trip several times, for we did not dare to put much of our plunder in at one time. The cows then swam across the river, we reloaded and proceeded on our way, nothing daunted and hardly considering that we had done anything remarkable, as that was the only way of crossing large streams in those days. "When The Dalles was reached, we sold our remaining cows for barely money enough to take us to Portland. This city was then only a village of one street and few business houses. We stayed the first night at the old Portland Hotel. a small wooden building. The next morning I went out on the streets to look for a job. We were broke and I needed a job the w^orst way. Almost the first man I met was a farmer from Yamhill County, named Griner. He was road master in his section and wanted a man to work on the road. He told me he could give me and my wife house room while I was working for him. I gladly accepted and soon was armed with a pick and shovel. Mr. Griner was in doubt as to some of his legal privileges in his work and asked my advice. I told him I did not know what the local custom was but so and so was the law on the case. He was surprised at my legal knowledge and asked me about it. I told him I had the theory but had never j^et practised law. Mr. Griner told me to drop the pick and shovel and take my wife and go to Lafayette, Oregon. He wanted to send his young lady daughter to school and wanted to board her with a cultured family, and assured us he would see that we had enough to eat during the winter. This was the end of our very hard times. While we were in Lafayette, our only child, Marabell. was born." Mr. Cook then related that soon after the birth of his child he was offered the position of district attorney for that PIONEER REMINISCENCES 179 section of the Northwest that is now Idaho. Pie went to Boise City alone, but sent for Mrs. Cook and the baby within a short time. They remained in Boise City a couple of years and then Mr. Cook was sent to the Eastern States for the purpose of securing a charter for the First National Bank of that city. Chris Moore was the bank president. His wife accompanied him on this trip, which was made by stage. Upon Mr. Cook's return to the West he settled in Van- couver, where he became a partner in a law office with the Hon. H. G. Struve. Struve afterwards was made District At- torney over a group of ten counties, of which Thurston was one. When Struve 's term expired, Mr. Cook was elected to succeed his former law partner. During the two years of this service, Mr. Cook made fre- quent trips to attend the Supreme Court in Olympia and be- came very well acquainted with the best people of the Capitol City. He can remember when Tacoma was only a dream of the future, one settler, Job Carr, being the entire population of the City of Destiny. About this time Mr. Cook's health began to fail him, and in looking over some medical books to investigate his ail- ments he became interested in medicine and decided to study that profession. He took a course in the Cooper Medical College in San Francisco. Then he went to Chicago where he became a graduate of the Hahnemann Homeopathic College. During the year of 1872 Dr. and Mrs. Cook and their young daughter went to California to make their home. They were accompanied on this trip by William Lemon and family to Los Angeles. Dr. Cook practised medicine in this city and Oakland for many years. Although the doctor has now retired from active practise he has by no means retired from active life for when the compiler of these reminiscences called upon him at the home of his son-in-law, Millard Lemon, he told about having spent the greater part of the day pruning a pear tree 50 feet high in its top boughs. Dr. and Mrs. Cook claim Long Beach, California, for their home, but every summer the lure of Puget Sound calls them and they come up and spend the hot months visiting at the home of their only daughter, Mrs. Millard Lemon. 180 THURSTON COUNTY WILLIAM D. KING The history of William D. King as related by his son, Charles D. King, is but a repetition of the sturdy expression of the spirit of adventure which led so many from comfortable homes in the Eastern States, to undergo the hardships and privations of a frontier life. In 1852, William King left his young wife, Caroline, in their Michigan home, and crossed the plains with the customary ox teams. Arriving in this section, the summer was spent at Grand Mound Prairie, looking for a place of permanent loca- tion. In the spring of 1853, Mr. King decided to take up a dona- tion claim in Cowlitz County, and selected a site just above the town of Kelso on the Cowlitz River. For a couple of years Mr. King worked on his claim, subduing the wilderness and build- ing up a home for his young wife. Finall.y, in 1855, Mrs. King was sent for, to join her hus- band, and made the trip to Washington by way of Panama, being among the first passengers to travel on the railroad which had recently been built across the Isthmus. The Kings continued to occupy their farm on the Cowlitz until the year 1863, and during this time, in 1859, their son, Charles D., was born. During the time of the Indian war troubles, in 1855-56, Mr. and Mrs. King and son were obliged to take refuge in the block house on the Cowlitz. It was during their sojourn in this place of refuge that their second son, the late H. S. King, was born. Neighbors of the King family in the fort were the Ostrander and the Catlin families, whose names are among the best known of the pioneers of that section. Mr. King was the second auditor ever elected in Cowlitz County, which office he held for several terms. In 1863, the family sold their donation claim and removed PIONEER REMINISCENCES 181 to Clackamas County, Oregon, afterwards settling in Umatilla County, where they lived until the time of IMr. King's death. This latter event occurred while he was on a trip to IMiehigan, where he had taken his younger son to place him in school, and w^as caused by a railroad wreck. The son, Charles, then wandered forth in the world on his own responsibility, leading the checkered career of a young man striving to educate himself, and at the same time earn his living on the frontier. The lad drifted to California, then to Winnemucca, Nevada, then on into Idaho, finally settling for several years at Weiser City, in that Territory. It was at Winnemucca that he was admitted to practise law, and here, too, he was living at the time of the Bannock and Nez Perce Indian wars. Mr. King was one of the guard stationed outside that frontier town to give warning to the citizens of the approach of the Indians who were ravaging the country in Idaho and Nevada, terrorizing the settlers, and freighters, and even the inhabitants of the smaller towns, who feared an attack. The tribes at one time joined forces and numbered 2,000 warriors. The younger King, before practising law, for a time, led a Mnld life as a cowboy on the Idaho ranges, and during this time was participant in many exciting adventures. In 1891, C. D. King came to Olympia, and began the practise of law. He still continues to live in this city. His only brother, H. S. King, died in Olympia, in 1912. 1&2 _ ....---. THURSTON COUNTY WILLIAM LEMON William Lemon and his wife were among the pioneers of the Cowlitz River settlement, and later of Cowlitz Prairie, and their experiences in this section were such as to try men's souls, until land was cleared and cultivated and neighbors began to arrive. The subject of this sketch, William Lemon, was born in Orange County, New York, his parents later going to Michi- gan, then to Illinois, and still later out to Iowa, where they lived for several years. Here William became a man and was finally married to a blithe Irish lass. The young couple, with their one child, caught the emigra- tion fever and decided to cast their fortunes with other emi- grants and go to Oregon, so in 1852 the trip was made with ox teams. When The Dalles was reached, late in the fall, Mr. Lemon decided to leave his considerable number of cattle there to winter, and go on down to Portland. Here he expected to find work at his trade of carpenter. However, before the little family reached this point, an important event happened. Their second child was born. His birth place was beside the Snake River in what is now Idaho, but was then comprised within the Oregon boundary. His cradle was a box in the wagon bed, his lullaby the rustle of the wind through the sage brush and grease wood. His mother told, to the time of her last illness, how the little fellow cried day and night, after he was taken into the house, for the rock- ing of the wagon. That child is now Millard Lemon of Olympia. When spring came, Mr. Lemon went back to The Dalles to round up his cattle. The winter had been a hard one, and in common with many other emigrants, who had hoped their cattle would winter without other feed than what the animals could pick up on the ranges, Mr. Lemon lost every one of PIONEER REMINISCENCES 183 his cattle except one ox. Owing to the hardness of the winter and unexpected rush of emigration during the year of 1852-3, the crop of potatoes produced by the few farmers around Portland was soon used up and the prices for this vegetable soared to the sky. The elder Lemon thought there must be a fortune in potatoes, judging from the price he was obliged to pay. So when spring came, he took his family and went on up to the Cowlitz country, took up a piece of land, and put it all in potatoes. As everyone else in the country had been pos- sessed with the same inspiration, there was almost no giving this humble vegetable away, and prices scarcely paid for the digging. It was while living on this homestead on the Cowlitz River that the baby who had come to the Lemon family on the plains nearly lost his life in a tragic manner. The little fellow had just begun to toddle and was playing around the door step of his father's cabin, when an immense eagle circled above his head, and was just swooping down to seize the child, when his father caught sight of the bird and shot it. The eagle's body fell into the river, but it was a narrow escape, and one of the mother's favorite tales to her children when they gathered around her knee in the gloaming. Becoming dissatisfied with the place on the river, Mr. Lemon went to Cowlitz Prairie and took up a donation claim of a half a section of land. Here the family was living during the time of the Indian war, seeking refuge with the other families on this prairie, in the block house on the Parsons' place. The women and children would stay in the block house and the men fare forth during the day to till the soil and gather in the crops, returning to spend the night with their families within the safety of the block house enclosure. Mr. Millard Lemon has in his possession to this day the gun which his father used to put over his shoulder when it was his turn to stand guard, and to protect himself with, while tilling the land. This was the same gun that ended the life of the eagle I have told about. Mr. Lemon, senior, in after years, received the pension awarded Indian war veterans. At this time the Cowlitz Prairie was principally settled with French Canadians, servants of the Hudson Bay Company, and a class of people who cared 184 THURSTON COUNTY but little for educational advantages, so the mother insisted that the family must go somewhere that the children could go to school. Claquato, the county seat of Lewis County, was selected. Here, for four years, the Lemon children were taught by Miss Peebles, one of the Mercer girls, and who afterwards became Mrs. A. Mcintosh, of Seattle. Millard Lemon gives this lady a just due of praise, by affirming that she was the best teacher he ever had, and as he is a college graduate, he must have had many and good ones, too. While residing on Cowlitz Prairie and Claquato, Mrs. Lemon made many visits to friends in Olympia, and Millard Lemon's early recollections include chasing the cows over what is now Capitol Park, but was then only a wilderness of fallen log's, brush and stumps. His companion in his boyhood days, and favorite chum, was Fred Guyot, then a lad of about nine years, and in ]\Ir. Lemon's own words, "as fine a lad as ever lived." In 1874, the Lemon family went to live in Los Angeles. California. But after spending several years in that place, decided to return to Washington. Olympia was selected as the place of residence this time, and here Mr. and Mrs. Lemon built the house on Eighth Street that was the family home for years, and where life ended for jNIr. Lemon, in 1890. Mrs. Lemon lived on in the old home for another seven years-, and then she joined her husband. To jMr. and j\Irs. Lemon were born seven children : Thomas, IMillard, Frances, Marion, Alice, Edwin and Ida. Millard and Ida are the only ones of the family still living. Ida is now ^Irs. Mann, and lives in the family home. A granddaughter — child of Alice — Mrs. C. Goldstein, who is now^ Mrs. Garrett, has lived in Olympia the past few years, formerly making her home in Seattle. The lad, IMillard, studied out of the same reader with Fred Guyot, and sat on the same bench in the little old log school house with the little girl who afterwards became Mrs. Charles Talcott, the first wife of one of Olympia 's pioneer jewelers. While a student at the State University of Oregon at Salem, Millard Lemon had as classmates, Stephen J. Chad- wick, now Judge of the Supreme Court of Washington; C. S. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 185 wick, Judge of the Supreme Court, and C. S. Rienhart, who has been elerk of the same court since Washington became a State, and the late Frank M. McCully, Avho was Deputy Superintendent of Public Instruction of Washington at the time of his death, in Olvmpia, in 1907. In 1876, Millard entered De Pauw University at Green Castle, Indiana, from which institution he graduated in 1880, taking the degree of A. B. Afterwards he took a classical course and secured- his degree of A. M. from the California State University. Following his graduation, Mr. Lemon had a varied career. Through the suggestion of Bishop Taylor, he Avent to Santiago, Chile, and was one of the founders of Santiago Col- lege, where he was head of the boys department. ]\Ir. Lemon's stay with this college lasted two years. At the expiration of this period, Mr. Lemon engaged in railroad engineering in the State of Chile, continuing in this work for the following six years. Returning to the United States in 1888, Mr. Lemon so- journed long enough at Long Beach, California, to become united in marriage to his boyhood's sweetheart, Marabelle Cook. The young couple then came to Olympia to visit Millard's father and mother. The business prospects of the Capitol City were bright, so they decided to make this city their home. IMr. Lemon has been successful in financial affairs and is today rated as one of the most solidly successful business men, not only in Oh^mpia, but the entire State of Washing- ton; a man who takes pride in the description, "His word is as good as his bond." Three children brighten the Lemon home, Edith, Mildred and Gerry. 186 THURSTON COUNTY I. HARRIS & SONS The name of Harris, father and sons, has been so prom- inently identified with the commercial and social life of Olympia for the past forty-five years that a history of Thurston County would be incomplete, indeed, without a sketch of this family. Although ]\Ir. I. Harris located in Olympia as late as 1870, he may well be counted among the actual pioneers of the Coast, for with his bride, then a young girl of nineteen years of age, he arrived in Oregon in 1853. The voyage from their New York home was made by the way of Panama to San Francisco, then on up to Portland. The first stop was made in Salem, Oregon. At this place, Mr. Harris engaged in a general merchandise business, but later concluded to try his fortune in Walla Walla. The family made the trip to the latter place by stage, from The Dalles. Mr. Harris was one of the leading merchants in Walla Walla for the next four years, but the wanderlust was not yet satisfied, so another move was made into the wnlds of Montana. Mrs. Harris, with her two small sons, Mitchel and Gus, visited relatives in the Eastern States while ^Ir. Harris was trying his fortune in Montana. The climate of this section of the West not agreeing with Mr. Harris, he decided to try Puget Sound. Olympia was at that time beginning to attract attention, and the tide of emigration seemed to be setting in strong for the Northwest, so this settlement was chosen as the next field of activities. That Mr. Harris was pleased with his selection, is manifest from the fact that Olympia was his home from that date, 1870, to the day of his death. When her husband was finally located in Olympia, Mrs. Harris and little sons joined him. A third son, Henry, was born after Mr. and Mrs. Harris had lived here a few years. The first store building occupied by IMr. Harris, was in the Tilley block, corner of Third and Main Streets, and a line of general merchandise was carried, although the Indian trade was largely catered to and a brisk business was carried PIONEER REMINISCENCES 187 on with the natives, who bartered skins for gaudy blankets and bright colored beads. For several years the Harris family lived in a neat little home on the corner of Fourth and Washington Streets, the land now being used for business purposes, and the house long since demolished. At that time the home of T. F. McElroy was by all odds the finest in the town, and was considered quite in the sub- urbs, surrounded, as it was, by the almost untouched forest. Mr. Harris, in about the year 1880, became the possessor of the half block of land between Main and Washington Streets, and built the substantial house which still continues to be the family residence. The Harris boys attended the schools of Olympia, at one time, being students in the little school taught by Miss Mary O'Neal. Later, the two elder sons, Mitchel and Gus, were sent to Portland, Oregon, to take special courses in German and music. Upon the completion of their education, they assisted their father in his business, and the firm name was changed from I. Harris, to Harris & Sons. In the year 1896, Mr. Harris, senior, while on an Eastern trip, contracted pneumonia and died before his sons could reach his bedside. The sons continued the business, which had developed into one of the leading dry goods stores on the Sound, for several years. With the exception of a short time spent in San Francisco, where he was engaged in business, IMitchel Harris has success- fully carried on the business founded by his father forty-five years ago. In about 1900, the second son, Gus, decided to locate in California, and is now at the head of a large dry goods estab- lishment in Los Angeles, his partner being Felix Lightner, a native of Olympia, and son of a pioneer merchant of this place. The youngest son, Henry, decided to devote himself to the medical profession. Consequently, after completing a course 8t the Leland Stanford University, he graduated from the John Hopkins Institute. Dr. Harris also spent a year as interne in this institution, He then put in two years in the hospitals of Berlin and Vienna, 188 THURSTON COUNTY taking special courses in medicine. Upon his return to the United States, he located in San Francisco, where he has built up a large practice. He is married and has three children. Mitchel Harris, loyal to the home of his boyhood, with his wife and children, Selwyn and Irene, has been twice chosen to the office of IMayor of the city by the vote of the people, and at all times has stood strong for the best interests of the community, and the development and advancement of Olympia. His family are prominent in the best society of the city, and in many ways his lot is cast in pleasant places. The widow and mother, Madame Harris, as she is no'w called, is spending her declining years in happiness and con- tentment, idolized by her sons and her grandchildren. Some- times visiting Gus and his charming family in Los Angeles, for a few months in the year, coming to Olympia for the hot weather months, and then back to the home of her youngest born, in San Francisco. PIONEER REMINISCENCES " 189 ALEXANDER YANTIS The history of Alex Yantis and his family, while, per- haps, not more filled with adventure and trials than that of contemporaneous pioneer settlers, is so characteristic and vivid, as related by the sons and daughters still living, that their experiences merit a prominent place in this collection of reminiscences. Hailing from Brownsville, ]\Iissouri, the Yantis family, consisting of Mr. and Mrs. Yantis and nine sturdy sons and daughters, joined a train of ox teams for the overland trip to California. Mr. Yantis was elected captain of the train and the trip was made without any direct disturbance from the Indians, the attacks of whom was the emigrants' constant dread and terror all through the long, hot, dusty journey over the old Oregon Trail. Although the trip was unavoidably tedious, as the oxen were tired and footsore, still many of the re- membrances of the younger ones of that trainload are pleasant and full of interest. The big camp fires at night, when all gathered around telling and listening to tales of home and adventure, the novel experiences each day would bring forth, the laying b}'- for one day's rest each week to allow the women to wash the clothes and bake up a supply of bread, while the children played around the wagons and picked the many-hued flowers which grew by the side of the road. These were among the simple pleasures which made the trip endurable and almost enjoyable. The Yantis sons and daughters still tell with glee of the fun and play of the trip, whenever a family reunion is held. They were a happy family, with the family ties tender and close to this day, among the children who survive. The nearest to a tragedy encountered was when the Snake River country was reached. At a certain point in the trail the road diverged and a sign post was set up by some previous traveller indicating that by following one of the roads a nearer cut-off would be found, although through a wilder 19() THURSTON COUNTY country. One family decided to take this nearer trail although earnestly remonstrated with by Mr. Yantis and other men of the train, whose counsel was that all should stick together. But the man was obstinate and by this time had grown care- less of the danger from Indians, so persisted in following the short trail. The rest of the party proceeded on to Snake River fort, where there were a small company of soldiers to protect the emigrants. It was known that the Indians were near and acting ugly. Indeed, the night before the fort was reached; the emigrants of Mr. Yantis' party could see a band of the enemy dancing a war dance in a bottom of land close to the camp. Their horrid yells and vehement brandishing of their guns and bows filled the whites with terror, which was not abated when an Indian buck came dashing up to Mr. Yantis' wagon and asked him to sell his little daughter, Sarah, to him. The Indian offered his horse for the child, and when refused by the parents, rode off in a rage. The night was spent in anxious watchfulness, but the Indians evidently con- cluded that the party was too strong for them to risk an attack on, so left them unmolested. When Snake River fort was reached and it was learned that the two wagons, whose drivers had taken the short cut, had not arrived, it was known that they had met with dis- aster. Mr. Yantis and several men of the train went back over the trail their friends should have arrived from. Before they reached the wagons they heard shots and screams. Dash- ing up, their worst fears were confirmed. The Indians had raided the wagons, shot and killed the m^in and his wife, and all the rest of the party, with the exception of two boys. One of these boys was lying on his face when the relief party came up, his body shot with a number of Indian arrows. He was not dead, however, and upon hearing Mr. Yantis' exclamations of horror over the fate of the rest of the family, called: "Is that you. Uncle Alex." The other boy was carried off by the Indians, when they stampeded, upon hearing the relief party charging up. The lad was afterwards brought back to the train by a Nez Perce Indian, another tribe than the one which had committed the massacre of the rest of the party. With a redskin's customary reticence, the deliverer refused to PIONEER REMINISCENCES 191 give particulars of how he came to have the lad in his possession. Two years before the Yantis family, which is the subject of these reminiscences, decided to leave their home, a brother of Mr. Yantis, B. F. Yantis. and sister of these men, Mrs. X. Ostrander. had preceded them, coming to the Cowlitz country, and a little later Mr. Yantis coming on to Olympia. The prospects in the undeveloped Northwest looked so good to this advance guard that they wished their brother's family to come West also and locate near them. Alex Yantis had written his brother and sister that he intended going to California that summer, starting at a certain time. B. F. Yantis thought nis brother would miss a golden opportunity if he failed to locate in this section of the country, so hired a man to ride horse- back back along the trail his brother must come, to intercept him with a letter setting forth the advantages of Thurston County. The man rode along the trail to where it branched otf and led to California. Learning from other emigrants that the ones sought for had probably not reached this inter- section yet. the courier waited till the brother's train arrived. When ^Ir. Yantis read his brother's message, a longing to see his kin.sfolks came over him, and as all places in the West were alike to the adventurers, they decided to come on to Oregon — now Wa.shington. After carefully considering the two trails then commonl.v followed by emigrant trains, the Natchez Pass, or to The Dalles and on down the Columbia River. Mr. Yantis decided on the Natchez Pass. With almost incredible hardship and danger, the cattle were driven through this pass, and the wagons fre- quently having to be lowered down declivities with ropes, but finally the train got out on the White River plains and so on to the Sound country. Soon after their arrival on Bush Prairie Mr. Yantis located on 320 acres of fine timber land on the Skookumchuck. four miles from where Tenino now .stands, the eldest son. John Yantis. residing on this homestead after the death of his father and mother. The first home was the typical settlers' log cabin, which was built during the winter of 1854. During the building of this cabin, the Yantis family lived Avith Wm. and Phillip Northcraft, bachelors, and the nearest neighbors. Soon after 192 THURSTON COUNTY moving into the new house, the entire country was startled by the Indian outbreak. The stories that came pouring in of homes devastated, men and women and children killed and general havoc, filled the settlers with alarm. A tract of lana on Grand Mound Prairie was donated and there the men assembled and built a stockade, or fort, which was known as Fort Henness. This enclosure was twelve feet high, built of solid lumber and so arranged that each family could have their little house within the safe precincts. In the center of the enclosure stood the guard house, where the men who were not on picket duty would assemble to warm themselves, swap stories and gossip. At two of the corners were block houses built with special reference to defense, in the event of an at- tack. These houses were only a few feet square at the base with steps leading to the upper part. Here the logs were longer and the upper story extended out several feet. There were port holes through the log wall, to shoot through, and these houses were of sufficient size to hold all the people in the event of the natives rushing the stockade. The Yantis family lived in this way for a year, Mr. Yantis and his sous going forth mornings to cultivate their fields, and returning to their cabin in the enclosure at night. While Fort Henness was never attacked by the Indians, the elder of the Yantis brothers are enabled to recall one ex- citing incident which occurred during their occupancy of the fort. One day an Indian woman came dashing up on her cayuse, with her face streaming with blood. She was closely pursued by an Indian buck, the latter wild with drink. When the fort was reached, the woman threw herself from her horse and ran into one of the cabins, crawling under the bed. The Indian, who proved to be her husband, stopped when within the enclosure and Mr. Yantis stepped up to his pony and demanded to know what was the trouble. The Indian reached behind him, as Mr. Yantis thought to get a gun, when the white man pulled him off his horse by the hair of his head. It afterward transpired that the Indian was reaching for a bottle of whiskey he had in the holster, with the intention of treating. The woman in the meantime made her escape and rode off across the clearing. When the husband was a little sobered PIONEER REMINISCENCES 193 down he started after his wife, threatening dire acts when he should overtake her. He had not gone far from the stockade when a shot was heard and, upon the men going out to inves- tigate, the Indian was found lying beside the trail with a bullet hole in his head. The men took a wagon box and covered the body until the Indian agent could be notified. It was commonly reported that the band, of which the dead Indian was a member, tortured the unfortunate -wife to death, as an example to the other squaws of the tribe never to thwart their lords. It was never known definitely who fired the shot Avhich made at least one good Indian, but at this late day it is shrewdly suspected that the man's name could be recalled by the surviving inhabitants of the fort. Before the Indian war Mr. Yantis had accumulated a large band of cattle, but he was obliged to sell and dispose of nearly £il the animals to support his family during these hard times. The wheat which Mr. Yantis raised on his place was taken ■:o the mill in Tumwater, then a two days' journey over rou O o o en P W PIONEER REMINISCENCES 209 wood residence, on their claim on Nesqually bottom. The pupils were the children of the Packwoods, the Shasers and the McAllisters, which were all there were within travelling distance to the school. "Teacher" boarded with the Packwoods during- the week, but every Friday evening she rode on horseback to her parents' home on Chambers Prairie. The curriculum taught was prob- ably limited to the three "Rs" and there was absolutely no school room furnishing or equipment. The children sat around on benches in the room wherever they chose. For teaching this school with all its attendant hardships, the j^oung girl received the munificent sum of $20 a month. Mrs. Bigelow had many thrilling incidents to relate, which happened to her during the lonely rides between her school and parents' home. In 1854 Miss White was married to the young lawyer, D. R. Bigelow, the bride and groom taking their wedding ,]0urney on horseback from the White home, to what has been known as the Bigelow addition for over half a century. The young couple avoided coming through Olympia, as Mr. Bigelow had learned that a number of his young men friends had planned to give the newly weds a rousing reception when they reached town. The ringleader of the jolly gang was Jim Hurd, Bigelow 's most intimate man friend. He had procured the cannon which figures so prominently in the reminiscences of all the Pioneers of those days, and which was kept in readiness to repel Indian attacks. Jim stood on guard v\'ith this ancient cannon loaded to the danger limit, ready to give a rousing salute when Mr. Bigelow and his bride should appear. By slipping around by a trail which Bigelow had cut to his home they escaped the demonstration and the laugh was on the assembled eroAvd who waited till dark for the young couple to appear. Mr. Bigelow purchased a quarter of the donation claim which he owned for many years. A donation claim was just a mile square. The other purchasers of the Caulkins claim were C. H. Hale and Miles Gallagher. The Young Bigelows' first married home was, in Mrs. Bigelow 's own words: "A two-room mansion, built of hand-split lumber with puncheon 210 THURSTON COUNT V floors. A tiny cook stove, six plain chairs, a primitive bed- stead and table comprised our 'setting out'." No bridge was there over what is now known as the Swantown fill, and the only way to reach the Bigelow home was by canoe or rowboat from Olympia. Later a pontoon foot- bridge was strung across the arm of the bay where the Olympia Theater now stands. When the Indian war broke out the Bigelows came to town for safety, making their home in the block house for several weeks. One evening, soon after their return to their home, Mrs. Bigelow was sitting alone in her kitchen, still nervous and afraid, when she heard a noise in the front room, and on look- ing around, was almost petrified with fear at the sight of a big, blanketed Indian's form which filled the doorway. It proved, however, to be Betty Edgar, a friendly squaw, married to a white man. She was looking for her half breed children who were late getting home. Mrs. Bigelow told of another scare she had endured from the Indians. One evening was seen a large number of Indian canoes coming up the bay. Each canoe was filled with braves in war dress. The men hastily assembled for protection and the women, who were too far away to seek refuge within the block house, prepared to flee to the woods for hiding. Mrs. Bigelow had a young baby by this time, and in her excitement she snatched a carpetbag and began stowing in it such articles as she thought would be most needed. She laughingly said, "a heterogeneous lot went into that satchel — a loaf of bread, some of the baby's things, some of my own clothing, etc." But before long the men returned with the reassuring news that the Indians were on a peaceful errand. It proved to be Pat Kanim and his braves, coming to deliver up their guns in accordance with the terms of the peace treaty made between Governor Stevens and this Indian chief. The Bigelows have always been prominently identified with the Methodist Church, and even when living on Chambers Prairie, Mrs. Bigelow would ride on horseback the twelve miles to Olympia to attend divine service. When she was married to Mr. Bigelow, one of the town jokes was that the last white girl in the county was married PIONEER REMINISCENCES 211 the town wit getting in his work on the family name as he does to this day. Eight children were bom to Mr, and INIrs. Bigelow : Tirzah, now Mrs. Royal; Eva, now Mrs. Bonney; Ruth, now Mrs. Wright; Ellis, Duncan, Ray, George and Margaret. With the exception of Ellis, who died several years ago, and Mrs. Bonney, who lives in Tacoma, all the children live in Olympia and immediate vicinity. The Bigelow name has always been honored and respected and in the stirring days of his prime D. R. Bigelow was one of the prominent men of the Northwest, and the sons and daughters have been a credit to their parents. 212 THURSTON COUNTY GEORGE W. MILLS There is none more to be honored among Thurston County pioneers than Mr. George W. Mills, who for the past fifty odd years has made his home in Tumwater, South Union, and later, in his declining years, in Olympia. ]\Ir. ]\Iills was a native of Illinois, having first seen the light of day in that State in 1833. Here he grew to young manhood, and when little more than a boy married Isabel Fleming, two years his junior. In Mr. Mills' own words, ''We were but children when we started out in our married life." A few years after their marriage, Mr. and Mrs. Mills went to the then Territory of Missouri, but had hardly settled there before the Civil War was declared. The young man organized Company G, 11th Missouri cavalry, and was elected second lieutenant by his company. Mr. ilills was very modest about his military career, but from other sources comes the story of a dashing bravery when in active service which may well be a source of pride to his sons and daughters. The principal engagement he took part in was the Kirksville charge. In this battle there were many killed and wounded, and while Mr. Mills was recounting his story of the engagement, something of the fire and spirit of his youthful days flamed in his eyes and animated his form. Ov>'ing to illness ]\Ir. I\Iills was obliged to resign from the company before the completion of the war. Among the clearest recollections Mr. Mills was enabled to relate, was listening to one of the now historic debates between Abraham Lincoln and Stephen A. Douglass. His word picture of the appearance of these famous characters was clearcut and vivid. Mr. Mills had a personal acquaintance with Lincoln, and loved to tell about what an "ugly, raw-boned figure of a man the rail-splitter really was," although with a certain majesty and dignity which impressed the young man even in those days. As the war had brought bitter hard times to ]\Iissouri and GEORGE W. MIIvIvS AND WIFE PIONEER REMINISCENCES 213 the cry of gold to be had for the piclving up came from Cali- fornia, the young couple decided to go to the gold fields and -gather their share. There were several children by this time, but they were all hardy and strong, and their parents full •of hope and confidence. Fitting up a light spring wagon for the family to ride in and with an ox team to haul the provisions and the very few household furnishings that were deemed absolutely necessary, the start was made for the land of promise. When the upper crossing on the Platte River, on the old Oregon Trail, was reached, they were halted by a company of soldiers stationed there to protect the emigrants from the Indians, who were on the warpath, and had taken several trains of emigrants along the road, killing the people and burning the Avagons. As small trains of wagons rolled up they were detained by the military officers until a sufficient number should have congregated to form a strong enough company to resist an ordinary attack from the bands of In- dians who roved at will over the plains. As the emigrants arrived, "Oregon, Oregon," was the cry. No one except the Mills family seemed to want to go to California. Mr. IMills. after consulting the officers of the company, w^as advised to join these Oregon-bound emigrants and go with them into that country. It was pointed out to him that all places in the West were about alike in advantages, but if, after reach- ing Oregon, he did not wish to remain there, he could then proceed on down to California. There seemed to be no alter- native, so the young couple joined the Oregon-ward march. By this time enough emigrants had arrived at the crossing to make a train of sixty wagons and three buggies. Owing to Mr. Mills' military training and his commanding person- ality, he was unanimously elected captain of the train, or mJli- 'tary director. Regular drills were held to teach the men how to corrall the wagons and prepare to withstand an attack, should the Indians make their appearance. Five and a half weary months of travelling followed, with the usual story of bitter hardships endured with uncomplaining fortitude by these sturdy men and women. Many and harrowing were the ex- periences undergone, and the fear of Indian assault was ever present. This fear was founded upon several terrilde re- 214 THURSTON COUNTY minders of the possible fate of the adventurers. Two or three times the train was halted to give the men time to inter the remains of victims of the Indians' wanton massacre. One day, ]\Ir. Mills related, they came upon what had evidently been the scene of a battle. The remains of a burned wagon was in the road, with w^hat had been its contents scattered over the plain. A few feet from the side of the road was a hastily-formed mound of loose dirt and sod. Be- tween two clods of earth, which were not closely packed down, streamed the long tresses of a woman's hair. The locks were of a beautiful brown color and of great abundance. From the size and shape of the mound it was evident that there were two forms under the earth, and the most pathetic sight of all, on top of the rude grave, curled up as though asleep, was the form of a tiny spaniel. There was no inscription or sign of any kind to tell who were here buried, but the gen- eral conjecture was that here were the remains of a husband and wife, who had been murdered by the Indians, their com- panions only taking time to throw a little earth over their forms before fleeing for their own lives. The little dog was probably the pet of the dead, and instinctively knew that his friends were sleeping there, so had stayed by them until death came from starvation. When Oregon was finally reached and the emigrant train disbanded, the Mills family settled in Yamhill County, where Mr. j\Iills went to farming. Here, the following winter, was born their son, George G. Mills. The next spring, encouraged by letters from a former neighbor, who had come to Puget Sound the previous year, they decided to come on to this county. Packing the wife and children into a wagon drawn by a span of mules, they started for the Sound, arriving in 1865. When they reached Tumwater and Mrs. Mills beheld the salt water before her, with the great forest on all sides, she said : ' ' Well, Pa, this is the jumping off place. We haven 't the money to go back; we can go no further, so we've just got to stay here." And stay they did. For the first three and a half years in the new home Mr. Mills was head sawyer at Ward's mill, at the upper Tumwater PIONEER REMINISCENCES 215 Falls, At about this time Jesse T., the youngest child of Mr. and Mrs. Mills, was born, A few years later the couple bought forty acres of land at South Union, six miles from Tumwater. ]\Ir. ]\Iills said this land was only bought after earnest consideration, for they well knew that the country was developing so rapidly that if they went further back in the wilderness and took up a home- stead of good soil, such as was to be had for the asking at that time, they would in the long run be better off financially, but Mrs. Mills plead: "Let's give the children a chance. We owe it to them not to get away from schooling advan- tages." Even then there was a fairly good rustic school at South Union, and as the children, one by one, acquired the knowledge taught there, they were sent into Olympia to get further educational advantages. Mary, George and Jesse were graduates of the Olympia Collegiate Institute. When the land at South Union was first bought it was covered with the forest primeval. Mr. Mills' first work was to cut down big trees enough to clear a building site for his house. In course of time, and through the heart-breaking labor which the development of wild forest land calls for, the farm was gradually cleared, a good nine-room house erected, and the Mills place at South Union became one of the most valu able farms in the county. In the year 1882 Mr. Mills was made industrial instructor at the Indian school at Chehalis, teaching the Indian boys thi rudiments of several trades. ]\Irs. Mills accompanied her husband with such of her children as were not attending school in Olympia. Among the pupils in the school was Jesse Mills, a ring-leader in all the sports, and undoubtedly much of the mischief, perpetrated by the dusky lads. As he was constantly associated with the Indians, and they were prac- tically his only playmates, the youngster readily acquired a proficient knowledge of not only in the Chinook jargon, but the Indian language as well. Consequently, when an Indian parent would come to enquire regarding the progress and welfare of their offspring. Jesse was frequently called in as interpreter. At the end of four and a half years, the Mills family re- turned to their farm at South Union, but had only been there 216 THURSTOISr COUNTY a few weeks, Avlien tlie Indian agent plead with Tdr. Mills to take charge of the Indian school at Skykoraish. This ser- vice lasted eighteen months, when Mr. ]\Iills was relieved and again took up his residence on the farm. At the time of Mr. Mills' arrival in Tnmwater, that set- tlement was more of a town than Olympia, and there was only a muddy trail connecting the two towns. From where- Masonic Temple now stands, in Olympia, to Tnmwater Falls, there was the untouched forest, and on about the spot where the George Israel home is now built was an Indian village the inmates of which hunted big game in the immediate neigh- borhood. Mr. Mills tells that many a night after his day's work in the saw mill, he and ]Mrs. Mills would take a lantern and flounder along the trail to Olympia, to trade out his pay checks at the Percival store. There was very little ready money in circulation and the cost of all commodities was very high, flour selling for $2 a sack of forty-nine pounds, or $50 a barrel, with sugar, butter, coffee, bacon and other necessaries in proportion. As everything was brought around +he Horn in sailing vessels, these prices were probably not excessive, all things considered. "Well, we had jolly times in those days," said i\Ir. Mills. "We were like one family. If one was in trouble it was the concern of all. We shared in each others' joys and sympa- thized in each others' sorrows. "Our principal amusements were dancing in the winter and picnics in the summer. Then a dance was a dance. Be- ginning early in the evening and lasting all night, till morn- ing brought light enough to see the trails leading to our homes. And those good old dances — Old Dan Tucker, basket quadrille. Cheater's swing, polkas, mazurkas, firemens' quad- rille — where are they now? I never heard the word tango nor saw a meditation waltz in my day, but think we had just as much fun at our gatherings as they do now — maybe more. "Of all the men with whom I was associated in a business way wdien I first came to the country. I can think of but five who are still living— Robert Frost, John Murphy, Gus Rosen- thal, Tom Prather and P. D. Moore." Mr. Mills tells with reminiscent glee of one of the pranks PIONEER REMINISCENCES 217 of his younger days. In 1868 political sentiment between the Whig party and the Democratic party was very decided, and party spirit very bitter. The election of a Territorial Delegate to Congress was imminent. Alvin Flanders of Vancouver — Whig — was running against Francis Clark — Democrat — of Ta- coma. When the news of Flanders' election reached us, Tum- water went wild. Speedily congregating, the Republicans se- cured a number of disused saws from the mill. By striking these with hammers and iron bars a noise horrible enough to wake the dead resulted. Tin cans and horse fiddles added their notes to the horrid din. After parading through the blocks of Tumwater streets, it was then for Olympia. Down by Crosby's mill went the jolly boys, along the trail to the bluff above Tum- water. Here was peacefully grazing the Biles' family cow. Her big brass bell was soon added to the orchestra's force. When the noisy procession was about half way to Olympia they met two foppishly dressed young young men riding on livery horses. They were stopped and their political convic- tions demanded. As they did not reply, but seemed frightened at the demonstrations, they were allowed to proceed on their way after the enthusiasts had given them three rousing groans and some mighty uncomplimentary remarks as a parting. When Olympia was reached the procession was swelled by the faithful of that burg. As they paraded up and down the streets a stop was made before every place of business as well as every dwelling house. In those days there was no side step- ping, or hiding one's political affiliations, and every man had to stand squarely on his party's platform. Consequently it was pretty well known just how each and every man had voted. So as the parade passed the house of one of the faithful a stop would be called and three rousing cheers given for the Whig, but when a Democrats' habitat was reached the inmates were greeted with three fearful groans. When the town had been properly greeted the wild gang started back for Tumwater. They stopped on the corner of what is now Fifteenth and Main Streets to inform Colonel Cock of the result of the election. Cock had just returned from a trip east of the mountains, where he had been buying cattle. He had not alighted from his horse when the boys came up. He was a very excitable man. 21g THURSTON COUNTY and when it was told him that the Whigs had won ont he simply went wild. Jumping from his horse in the middle of the road he threw his hat down and stamped it into the mud. Just as his frenzy was at its height, the same couple of fops who had been met a few hours previousl.y came riding up. One of them sprang from the horse and rushed into Cock's arms. A closer inspection showed the astonished men that the sup- posed dudes were Mrs. Cock and Mrs. Rice Tilley. The two young womeii had thought it would be a lark to dress up in men's clothes and ride out to meet Mr. Cock. They took the wrong road, however, and missed him, and were returning home. Explanations and apologies were in order. "My wife died in 1907," proceeded Mr. Mills, "after we had lived together 54 years, and if ever a man lost a faithful. loving companion I did when she was laid away. She was a good wife and devoted mother. I miss her every day of my life and one of my few pleasures is going to her last resting place and looking at the spot I shall occupy by her side. T have finished my work and only wait the last summons. I am proud of my children, none of whom have ever caused me humiliation or shame. They are all honorable men and women, respected in the community where they reside. ' ' The children born to Mr. and Mrs. Mills were : Sarah. afterwards Mrs. Sales, of Seattle ; Kate, Mrs. Reynolds of Olym- pia; James and John, still of Tumwater; jMary, Mrs. Hunting- ton, of The Dalles, Oregon; Lora, afterwards Mrs. Greene of this city; Fannie, Mrs. Meyers, now living inOakville; and George and Jesse, of Olympia. JMrs. Reynolds and INIrs. Greene are no longer living. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 219 W. O. THOMPSON One of the most remarkable examples of the sturdy Pioneer, is W. 0. Thompson, who, at the ripe age of 90, still steps forth briskly, with eyes bright and quick and with a keen intelligence relates his experiences in crossing the Oregon Trail in 1850 and his adventures after reaching Thurston County, with a clearness and conciseness which was a delight. In "Black Lak6" Thompson's own words: "I was born in Blairsville, Pennsylvania, in 1821:, being of Scotch descent on my father's side. My mother belonged to the aristocratic family— the Culbertsons. My people were possessed of considerable of this world's means and sent me to a private school taught by a Catholic priest, who was refused orders on account of dissipated habits. One day he became angry with me, and struck me, first on one side of my head and then the other, with the result I have had im- paired hearing ever since. Later I was sent to the school taught by a Scotch Presbyterian minister, who was in the habit of maintaining discipline by the use of a cat-o-nine-tails. . ''Soon after this the first public, or state school, was started, presided over by a college-bred teacher, and my edu- cation progressed satisfactorily. "When I was ten years old^ I won a prize for my penman- ship, much to my delight. Having reached the age of fourteen and my family having met financial reverses, I decided to run away from home and find employment on a farm. Later I worked my way to Cincinnati, where I found work in a sash and blind factory. Here I boarded with a Mr. T. B. Mason, a musician, who urged me to allow him to train my voice so I could sing with the church choir. I had alwa3^s loved music, although my sister always made fun of my voice and would not allow me to join in the music at home. Mr. Mason tested my voice and found it a baritone, so I was not allowed to sing in the choir. 220 THURSTON COUNTY "At this time I also ^eatly enjoyed dancing. "When about 24 years of age I found myself a chronic invalid, with weak lungs, dyspepsia and rheumatism. A doctor told me to try roughing it as the only possible means of restoring my health. I secured work at once as a deck hand on a Mississippi River boat and found my health began to improve. "The next few j^ears were full of wandering, even thought of enlisting to go to the Mexican war, but a visit to a camp of volunteers so disgusted me that I abandoned the intention. "In 1850 I heard of a Mr. E. S. Bonsell, who was about to start West over the Oregon Trail, and wanted a driver for one of his trains, which position I secured. "Our train consisted of nine wagons and we started across the prairies from Fort Leavenworth, on the Caw Eiver, early in the Spring. We struggled through deep woods, waded brooks, ferried our wagons over rivejs, whenever we were for- tunate enough to find boats, making the cattle swim. "We had just crossed the little Blue River and were travelling over the bluffs down into the Platte valley, when suddenly our train ran into a band of about 150 Indians, painted faces, scanty clothing, and carrying Mexican spears. I made frantic signs for them to separate and let our train pass through, which they did, but soon surrounded our little band. I at once planned for a council to be held under a big tree, close at hand, they to send their chief, and we, our leader. While arranging this I had the drivers form the wagons in a square, with the tongues outside. Into the square thus formed, we put the women and children. "In the excitement, one of the wagons was left out of this square and the Indians began crowding around it. Elbowing my way through, I found that Miss Nancy Morton, a beautiful young girl of our party, was the object of great admiration on the part of the chief and his braves. The chief made signs that he wanted to buy Nancy for his wife, and that if we would not sell her he would take her by force. I walked up to the girl, placed my hand on her shoulder and made signs that she belonged to me. Telling her to follow me, we plunged into our extemporized fort. I tell you, Nancy was a badly frightened girl. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 221 "At the council the chief told us they* were friendly to the white but were out after their enemies, the Pawnees. All they wanted from us was meat. Uncle Johnnie had a beef killed, which in a short time they had eaten raw. I assured them that many Boston men were coming and a party had ridden upon a bluff to look back over the road. Fortunately, there was a dust arising from another train of emigrants, so they rode on, but not before another one of our cows had been killed by one of the war party. "The plan of work which was invariably carried on by the emigrants each day was: In the early morning the sentinel on duty roused the camp, and very soon every tent and wagon is pouring forth its night tenants, and slowly kindling smokes begin to rise and float away in the morning air. The men start out to round up the cattle and soon the well-trained cattle move toward the camp. By seven o'clock, breakfast must be eaten, the wagon loaded and the teams yoked, all realizing that if they are not ready they will be obliged to fall behind into the dusty rear for the day. One man goes ahead to select a nooning place, where grass and water must be found, if possible. The teams are not vmyoked at noon but simply turned loose from the wagon,and then the noon meal is eaten. At one o'clock the march is resumed till night, when again everyone is busy building fires, preparing supper, pitch- ing tents and making ready for the night. The watches begin at eight o'clock and end at four o'clock. "I am asked if we had happy times around the camp fire at night. I answer 'no.' We were too tired and worn after the day's weary march. What we wanted was sleep. "One day we saw a man sitting alone besides the trail. He gave the Masonic sign of distress, and Mr. Bonsell at once invited him to join our party. His name was O'Hare, but we never knew the reason of his being left besides the roadside. "Another friend I made on this trip was Wm. Sherwood. disinherited son of a rich Englishman, who had chosen a fron- tier life in preference to one of luxury in England. He was very musical and taught me 'The ^Mistletoe Bough,' and 'Bon- nie Sweet Bessie.' At this time I had a little trouble with Mr. Bonsell and left his emploj^ although later, when we were all in Olympia, Mrs. Bonsell treated me like a son, I then 222 THURSTON COUNTY secured a position of driver of one of' Uncle Johnnie Slocnm's vvagons, a position which suited me exactly, for I was assigned to drive the wagon in which rode that charming girl, Miss; Nancy Slocum, and her young cousin, Kuby Slocum. "A gruesome sight, when we reached Fort Laramie, was an Indian grave yard. At a distance they looked like scaffolds, while on the ground white buffalo skulls were arranged in a circle, whether as a decoration or some mystic sign, I never knew. "We were now in the country of the hostile Indian and we men had to keep watch with great vigilance. We Avere fortunate in not losing a single member of our party by death during the long journey, but we passed by many freshly-made graves, the sight of which was very depressing to our tired little band. "Although the scenery became very beautiful. I felt as if I Enjoyed a good slice of corn bread and bacon more than all the beauties around us. "Uncle Johnnie Slocum proved to be a hard task master and one morning he most unjustly attacked me with an ox yoke. I drew a knife to defend myself. Of course, he dis- charged me on the spot, but sold me supplies enough to last me the rest of the trip. I paid him well for them, however. "My supplies were piled out beside the road, and the train moved on, leaving me sitting alone beside the Oregon trail, but another party came along and picked me up the same day. "When near Fort Hall we had our first experience with Indians stampeding our cattle. It was one of their favorite tricks to give the emigrants a big scare. They came down the hillside with painted faces, feathers flying, and uttering most terrible war whoops while pounding on their skin drums. Our cattle ran away, scattering people and baggage in all directions. Fortunately no one was hurt, but some of the wagons were broken, so we had to go back to the fort to pick up scraps of iron to mend them with. "Mr. Landers, one of our party, now became very ill and we had to drive very slowly. Our cattle were almost starving and when we reached Salmon Falls, on Snake River, we were obliged to make the most dangerous crossing on the trip, so PIONEER REMINISCENCES 223 we coiild reach the grassy meadows, which we could see in the distance. ■ ■ - « ■ "Port Boise was another historic spot. It was bnilt in 1834, but the only object of iiiterestl can recall was the thous- ands of jack rabbits running about in every direction. "As we descended the Blue Mountaiiis, the view was sur- passingly grand. 'Before vis lay the - great valley of the Co- lumbia, ninety miles away rose the lofty ranges of the Cas- cade Mountains, Mdth the towering peaks of Mt. Hood, I\It Rainier and Mt. Adains, which have become so familiar to me during my sixty years of life in the • Northwest. At The Dalles I secured employment on a large rowboat, which was carrying passengers to the Cascades. I made several trips up and down the Columbia River and then, having some money, decided to go on to Portland. So I joined a party of young men who were to drive their fathers' cattle to that settlement. One of the youngsters was Brad Davis' brother. On this trip I became so desperately ill that I was obliged to lie down by the roadside and let the rest go on. "An Indian came riding bj' on a pony and I offered him every cent I possessed if he would sell the pony, but not till I had added every article of clothing I could spare from my person did he consent to the bargain. I rode the pony into Vancouver, and there the horse was claimed by a man, who said it had been stolen from him. By the laws of Oregon I had to give the horse up and was to receive one-half the cost of the animal. The man promised to pay, but to this good day is still owing me that money. "I determined not to go into Portland dressed in my shabby clothes, so I remained in Vancouver, digging potatoes for $2 a day till I had earned forty big Mexican dollars. I then bought a suit of clothes and went on to Portland. "The settlement of Portland in '52 was a big mud hole; no sidewalks, few wagon roads, and often one would see a wagon mired to the hub in the sticky mud. I spent two or three days working in the Abrams mill and one of the men employed there was young William Billings, afterwards for many years Sheriff of Thurston County. One day another man and myself were set at work cutting down one of the biggest trees I had ever seen. It was in the middle of one oT 224 THURSTON' COUNTY the main streets. I never worked harder in my life, but it took us the whole day to cut down that tree. We were paid ofi: and discharged that first night. "In company with Mr. O'Hare and Mr. Sherwood, I then started for Puget Sound. We built a flat-bottomed boat and poled down the Columbia to the Cowlitz Kiver. We stopped at 'Hard Bread's' hotel. It was run by a man who fed his customers hard tack three times a day. "Reaching Cowlitz Landing, we abandoned our boat and tramped the remaining fifty miles to the Sound. The trail passed near where Chehalis now stands. We were entertained by George Bush, M^ho had squatted on a claim seven miles from Olympia in 1845. He had an abundance of farm produce and was exceedingly generous to all emigrants. We then walked to Tumwater, where an Indian agreed to paddle us to Olympia, where we arrived the winter of 1852. "I had then completed a journej^ over the Oregon trail, which was about 2,000 miles, beginning at Gardiner, Kansas, and ending at Olympia, Washington. I had passed through the country now called Kansas, Nebraska, Wyoming, Idaho, Oregon and Washington, and when I reached the shores of Puget Sound, I felt this country to be the El Dorado of my dreams and I have been contented to live here ever since. "I do not remember that there was a white woman in Olympia when I first arrived, but there were two living in Newmarket — Tumwater — Mrs. Crosby and Mrs. Simmons. It seemed a forlorn place and I never was so homesick in my life. I went back to Mr. Bush, but he laughed at me and set me to work making some sash and door frames for a new house he was about to build. I stayed with Mr. Bush two or three months. We sometimes rode over to Black Lake to go in swimming. Mr. Bush made me presents of several articles which could not be bought at that time — a whip saw, etc. "I wanted to get a claim on Bush Prairie, but the good land was all taken. There was plenty of land to be had for the taking around Olympia, but the timber was so thick that I was afraid of it. It did not seem as if a man would live long enough to ever see a garden grow, so I heard of some good prairie land out at Black Lake. I had been much pleased witli that lake, it was so picturesque and looked, to me, like the PIONEER REMINISCENCES 225 shape of a violin nestled down in the green ; the slender place in the middle, about sixty rods wide, seemed as beautiful to me as a lady's picture. •'I found a prairie one-half mile long and eighty to 100 rods wide, bordered with oak trees and a little fringe of fir around the lake. A beautiful little trout stream ran across one end of the prairie and into the lake. There were smelt in the creek at the last of the rainy season. Salmon would come up the cr'?ek to spawn and often, when I would go down to get c, bucket of water, I would knock a salmon on the head with my ax, for my dinner. There were also mountain trout in the stream and the lake was full of white suckers. The Indians would come with a sieve and take a wagon-load of suckers away at a time. "I selected a site for my cabin and went to Dr. Tolmie's to get my hoe, blankets and frying pan. "One day I was returning from a trip to the Hudson Bay trading post, near Steilacoom. The trail crossed the Nesqually. near McAllister Creek, and some Indians were living there. They refused to ferry me across, although I asked them to do so in English, Chinook and sign languages, and offered them fiifty cents, while the usual price was but twenty-five cents, but they paid no attention to me. A young Tyee Indian was lying on the ground. I shook him by the hair of his head and commanded him to ferry me across the river, which he then did. The Indians then went up to McAllister and v/anted to know if I was a military officer or big chief, that I had dared to whip their Tyee. They must have been disgusted when McAllister told them that I was only a cultus Boston 3nan. "I cut out the trail between Bush Prairie and Black Lake and made a scow to ferrj^ people and cattle across the lake from the Olympia trail, for the convenience of settlers who were going to Miami Prairie, Gate City and Grand Mound. ' ' 226 THURSTON COUNTY DR. NATHANIEL OSTRANDER ''He was ever strong for the right," are the words that come most readily to the compiler's pencil when an attempt Avas made to draw a pen picture of that veteran war horse in the medical profession, Dr. Nathaniel Ostrander. For many years, while living on his homestead on the Cowlitz River, he was the only doctor to minister to the distress of the people for many miles. His daughters can still re- member their father hurrying out, sometimes in the dead of night, saddling his faithful nag, filling his saddle bags with drugs, medicines, and frequently, surgical instruments, and starting on a trip of perhaps twenty or even fifty miles, in response to a summons for medical aid. Many of the men and women today living in Cowlitz County, with heads white with the hoar of age, were ushered into this w^orld by the genial doctor, whose proud boast it was that no mother died while under his care when professional skill was possible to save the lives of her and her baby. Brusk, sometimes gruff in his manners, all who best knew this grand old man, knew his heart was of pure gold, his moral life beyond reproach and his family relations loving and pure, a staunch friend, loyal to his political and fraternal affiliations. Dr. Ostrander 's memory is still fondly cherished by his former friends and he is mourned by his daughters to this late day. A native of New York, Nathaniel Ostrander grew to man- hood in that state, received his medical education, and in 1836 was united in marriage to Miss Eliza Jane Yantis, of Lexington, Kentucky. After marriage, the Ostranders lived in Saline County, Missouri, but in 1852 decided to join an ox train and came West, as many from their neighborhood were contemplating such a move. The emigrants suffered even more than the customary hardships and terrors attendant upon the trip at that period. Weeks before the train arrived at The Dalles, black measles to Q < W Q < m O Q PIONEER REMINISCENCES 227 broke out among the emigrants and many deaths ensned. The services of the Doctor were in constant demand, and for two or three weeks there was but little rest or sleep for him. When Snake River was reached, in Idaho, one of the Ostrander children, Susan Charlotte, died, and was buried in a lonely grave beside this river. Here, too, Mrs. Ostrander gave birth to a girl baby. At the time of the baby's arrival the mother and her four daughters were deathlj- sick with the measles and for a time the outcome looked very doubtful. Arriving at The Dalles, the Ostrander family took boats for the vo^'age doAvn the Columbia to Portland. Here a short stop was made, but the children were still weak from the ex- periences on the plains, and malaria was so prevalent, that Dr. Ostrander decided to go on up to the Cowlitz country and take up a homestead. The Doctor and his brave wife at once set to work to carve a home from the wilderness and succeeded so well that within a few years their homestead became the finest and most valu- able in that section. Owing to a native force of character and natural ability, Dr. Ostrander soon became a leader in every enterprise among the pioneers. He was the first Probate Judge of Cowlitz County, having been appointed by Governor I. I. Stevens, soon after the organization of Washington Ter- ritory. Always a loyal Democrat, he was elected to the Ter- ritorial Legislature for several terms. Dr. Ostrander was a prominent member of the Odd Fellows, and took a keen in- terest in this fraternal organization to the day of his death. The town and river of Ostrander, in Cowlitz County, are named in honor of the Doctor. In 1872 the Ostranders decided to remove to Tumwater. Here the doctor opened a drug store in connection with the practise of his profession, and here the family lived for the ensuing fifteen years, the children in the meantime, growing up and receiving their education in the schools of that place. In 1887 the family selected Olympia as their home, and the Doctor built the large house on the block bounded by Franklin and Adams, Eighth and Ninth streets, Avhieh became the Ostrander home the remaining days of Doctor and Mrs. Ostrander. ]\rrs. Ostrander was the first to go. passing from this life 228 THURSTON COUNTY on February 22, 1899, after a well spent life of 68 years. A faithful wife, loving mother, consistent and ardent Christian and true friend, all who knew her realized that a good woman was gone with her passing. Dr. "Nat," as he was lovingly called by his familiars, joined his wife in the better land on February 7, 1902. Ten daughters and one son were born to Dr. and Mrs. Ostrander : Priscilla Catherine, now Mrs. Montague, of Forest Grove, Oregon, but whose first husband was James Redpath, and whose son is Dr. N. J. Redpath of Olympia ; Marj^ Anne, now Mrs. Thomas Roe, of Forest Grove, Oregon; Susan Char- lotte, the little girl who died and was buried on the plains ; Sarah Teresa, widow of Charles Catlin, a pioneer of Cowlitz County, and Avhom the town of Catlin is named after. Mrs. Catlin now makes her home in Portland, Oregon. Margaret Jane, now Mrs. M. 'Conner, of Olympia; Maria Evelyn, who later became ]\Irs. W. W. Work of Olympia, but who died in 1888; Isabella ]\Iay, afterwards Mrs. E. E. Eastman, of Olym- pia ; John Yantis, who became an Alaska capitalist, but who died in Olympia in the Spring of 1914; Florence Eliza, after- wards Mrs. Walter Crosby, of Olympia; Fannie Lee, after- wards Mrs. C. M. Moore, now of Oakland, California, and Minnie Augusta, who died in infancy. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 229 THE JAMES FAMILY Samuel James and his wife, Anna Mai:ia, with their family of eight sturdy sons and daughters, were the original settlers on Grand Mound Prairie. Of English birth, the couple came to America with their sons, Samuel, William, Thomas and John R. The first home in the land of their adoption was made in Wisconsin, Mr. and IMrs. James living in that state for several years, and here were born to them their daughters, Eliza and Mary, and their sons, Richard Oregon and Allen. While the children were still small and the younger ones but little more than babes, Mr. James became infected with the western fever. The home place was sold and the purchase price devoted to outfitting for the perilous journey across the plains to the new country of Oregon. The incidents of that journey cannot be preserved in his- tory, for the father, mother and children who were old enough to remember the experiences, are all gone, but the surviving son, John, who is still hale and clear-minded, relates that there were three yoke of cattle to each wagon and that five months were passed in steady travelling before the promised land was reached. Milwaukee, Oregon, was the first stopping place of the adventurers. Here Mr. James rented a farm and put in his crops. But this vieinitj^ did not satisfy them and they de- cided that Puget Sound was the land of golden opportunities, so after spending a year at IMilwaukee, Mr. and IMrs. James decided to pull stakes and away. The trip was made in the manner customary in those days, hiring bateaus from the Hudson Bay people, up the Willamette and Cowlitz Rivers to Cowlitz Landing. The cattle were driven along the Indian trail paralleling the river, by the three brothers, Samuel. AVilliam and Thomas. When the Cowlitz Landing was reached, the wagons were unlopded 230 THURSTON COUNTY from the bateaus, fitted up and loaded with the furnishing-s and equipment of the James family. Arriving at Grand Mound in 1852, JMr. James took up a donation claim of 320 acres on the Chehalis River, built a cabin home and started to improve what afterwards became one of the finest farms in Thurston County. The prairie land was broken up and put in grain fields. ]Mr. James was a very progressive pioneer and among his first work M-as starting a ten-acre orchard, the little trees for the planting being brought with almost incredible difficulties from Oregon. The land was rich and the farm prospered almost from the be- ginning. As there were no other settlers on the prairie for a wdiile, Mr. James had the run of the fine ranges for his cattle and later a band of sheep, which he possessed. Soon after locating, he bought a small band of forty sheep from James McAllister, the Nesqually pioneer. This flock increased to a band of 500 head and was a source of considerable profit to the James family. It was a good three days' journey from the Grand Mound ranch and return, to Tumwater, with the wagons heavily loaded with grain to be ground into flour. This town and the little settlement which had sprung up on the Sound, called Smithfield— now Olympia, was the nearest market. Mr. John James, the only surviving son out of the stalwart band, relates some very interesting experiences of the family in the troublesome time preceding the Indian war, one of the incidents, which is here given, showing that the natives were sometimes responsive to humane treatment. "It was in berry picking time in the Summer of 1853," said Mr. James, "and a considerable band of Indians went into camp near our place, to gather their annual supply of the wild berries which grew in great profusion in the vicinity. Soon after their arrival the chief of the band, several members of his family, and a number of the tribe, were taken down wnth small pox — the scourge of the frontier in those days. Now it so happened that father, mother and one of my brothers were fmmune, owing to their having recovered from the dread dis- ease at an earlier period. Besides being one of the most pro- gressive men, father was also one of the kindest hearted I ever knew. Consequently he, wnth the assistance of mother PIONEER REMINISCENCES 231 and brother Thomas, nursed the siek Indians, administering the simple remedies which he liad knowledge of, and, undoubt- edly saved the lives of many. "When the disease had run its course and all were well again, the chief and head men called upon father and entered into a solemn treaty with him that all claims to the section of land on which was the James homestead were forever re- linquished by the Indians, and should remain in the undis- turbed possession of the family for all time, as far as the In- dians were concerned. The chief further made a treaty of good will that Mr. James and his family would ever be pro- tected by the Indians in the event of trouble arising between them and the settlers, who by this time had begun to arrive in considerable numbers. "This good-will treaty was all that prevented Grand Mound Prairie from being selected as an Indian reservation a few years later, when Governor Stevens made the allot- ments of territory to the natives, instead of Black River." In the Fall of 1853 a goodly number of emigrants came into the country, having arrived over the terrible Natche?> Pass. With cattle worn out, supplies exhausted, and men and women fatigued to the limit of human endurance, the fine ranges, bountiful supply of wood, land easily put under cul- tivation, springs of delicious water, the prospect was alluring, so they decided to settle on Grand Mound, and from that time on there was no lack of good neighbors for the pioneer family. Among the early settlers of Mr. John James w?i-s : B. F. Yantis and family; Alexander Yantis and family; James and Charles Biles; J. W. Goodell and large family; Ilolden Judson. Josephine Axtel, Patterson Luark. Abraham Tilley, Arthur Sergeant and sons, while on Miami Prairie early settlers were : The Brj'-ans, with their sons and daughters, Esther, INIary. Preston and Edgar; Camby brothers, four in number; John Laws; the Waddells, with their children, Robert and Susan; the Dodge family, consisting of father and mother and children Robert, Bruce, Marion and Samuel. Other pioneers of the neighborhood were Lawton Case, AVm. Mills and family. Henry 232 THURSTON COUNTY Hale and family, Paron Qiiinn, Elijah Baker and wife, Olive, with their boys. James and William; Jacob Croll, S. H. French, Andrew MeCormack and family; L. D. Dnrgan and wife; Augustus Gangloff, Thomas and William Cooper, Robert Barge, and the Northeraft brothers. The most of these people made their headquarters for over a year at Fort Henness, during the troublous Indian outbreak. James Biles built the first tannery on Scatter Creek, north of the Columbia River. L. D. Durgan and A. Gangloff started the first fruit nursery ; John Guynnup, a Mexican war veteran, started the first brick kiln at Grand Mound, and in 1853 a Mr. Armstrong built the first sawmill on the Chehalis River, locating a little below the present town of Oakville. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 233 ALBERT A. PHILLIPS 111 presenting a brief sketch of the late Albert A. Phillips, it becomes a duty, as well as a pleasure, to give prominence to the well known reputation he enjoyed for absolute business integrity. After having been President for twenty years of the First National Bank, and upon the failure of that institu- tion being appointed receiver, with the universal consent of the stockholders, is in itself an eloquent testimonial of the confidence in and regard for Mr. Phillips by his business associates. Albert A. Phillips was born in a small town in Ohio, in 1839, and graduated from the high school of Sandusky, when eighteen years of age. He then taught school for a few years, but at the age of 21 bade farewell to his boyhood friends and home and started West over the old Oregon Trail. An elder brother, E. C. Phillips, had preceded him, and was located on Whidby Island, where he was conducting a general merchandise store. The young man clerked in this store for a year and then, hearing of rich strikes in the Idaho gold fields, decided to try his fortune there. Here he Avas unusually successful, and soon made a considerable stake from dealing in mining properties. Investing his modest fortune in Boise City, Idaho, he was, within a few months, completely stranded by a fire which destroyed the buildings in which he had invested. He then returned to Whidby Island, but came later to Olympia, where he was enrolling clerk with the first session of the territorial legislature. Liking the capital of the new Territory, Mr. Phillips decided to locate here, his first employment after the session being that of clerk in Capt. Percival's store. Within a few years he was elected Auditor and Eecorder of Thurston County, and enjoyed the distinction of being re-elected for seven consecutive two-year terms. The first State bank in the Territory was founded by 234 THURSTON COUNTY the late George A. Barnes, and when Mr. Phillips was finally sncceeded as a eonnty officer, in company with Jndge Hoyt, this bank was purchased. The venture was so successful that the partners, Phillips & Hoyt, started the First National Bank and Phillips was elected President, continuing in this position until, owing to the deflation of real estate values, the bank Avas forced to close its doors. Mr. Phillips was then appointed receiver, and how judiciously and Avisely he closed up the af- fairs of the institution, and how satisfied were the investors and depositors, is a matter of financial history. Mr. Phillips was elected Mayor of the City of Olympia on the Republican ticket, was at one time a trustee of the Asylum for the Insane at Steilacoom, and was appointed a regent of the St*te University by Governor Ferry. After closing up the affairs of the First National, he was elected County Treasurer for two terms and was then appointed Assistant State Bank Examiner by Governor Meade, which position he was filling at the time of his death, on August 15, 1910. Albert E. Phillips was married to Miss Ellen Gillispie in 1869, and brought his bride from Whidby Island to Olympia to make their home. Three children were the result of this union, Gertrude, afterwards Mrs. Rankin ; Elizabeth, now IMrs. 0. il. Llitchell of Mt. Claire, New Jersey, and Charles K. Gertrude died several years ago. Charles lives in Seattle, but claims Olympia as his home, coming here to vote at election time. Mrs. Phillips, a native of Wisconsin, came to Whidby Island with her parents, in 1857 The journey to the West was via Panama, and was soon after the little railroad was built across the Isthmus. Whidby Island at that time was considered to be the garden spot of Washington. A very superior class of people had settled there, who were enjoying unusual prosperity for so new a section, consequently Mrs. Phillips' recollections of the islands are very pleasant, and the reminiscences con- tributed by that lady are exceedingly interesting. All travel, of course, was by water, and Indians were generally hired to convey the settlers to the various points, in their canoes. For a moderate charge, the natives Avould take a party even as far as Seattle. Among ]\Irs. Phillips' most PIONEER REMINISCENCES 235 pleasant memories is a trip to that city, taken in company with her brother-in-law and sister. The big bucks did the paddling. A camp was made at night on the beach, and the trip was comfortable and full of delight to the young people. Another trip taken at an earlier day, which Mrs. Phillips tells about, was not so pleasant. "When she was a young girl about fourteen years of age, in company with her seventeen- year-old sister. Elizabeth, they started for a day's visit with friends in Coupeville. An Indian was hired to take them there in his canoe, the fare being 50 cents for the round trip. When they were opposite a lonely place on the beach, the Indian paddled up to the shore. With his paddle in his hand, springing out of the canoe, he pushed the girls away from the shore, and, pulling a knife, which to the frightened git'ls looked to be two feet long, began to hack his paddle to pieces, jabbering and grimacing all the while in a perfectly demoniacal manner. The girls were paralyzed with terror and at a loss what to do, drifting there alone in a canoe vrithout a paddle or means of landing. At this time another Indian paddled up to them and asked them the cause of their trouble. Upon their telling him, he directed them to look under the mat in the bottom of their canoe and find another paddle and reach the shore, which they did. The friendly Indian then went up to the one who had caused the trouble, and sternly repri- manded him, and commanded him to get back in the canoe and take the girls on to Coupeville. Indian No. 1 quieted down, resumed the journey and made no further disturbance, then nor on the return trip. At one time E. C. Phillips owned a farm on Whidy Island and had a couple of men and an Indian clearing some land One of the men hung his coat upon a stump, while he worked. In the pocket of the coat was $300 in $20 gold pieces. When the day's work was over, the owner of the coat threw it over his arm and went to supper. Some time in the evening he missed his money and, naturally, accused the Indian, who had been working with him, of taking it. The Siwash strenuously denied the theft. But there was no mistake. The money had certainly been in the man's pocket. None but the Indian saw the coat hanging on the stump. The money was gone. Of course he took it. Justice was swift and impetuous in those 236 THURSTON COUNTY days. A posse of "Boston" men soon assembled. Both sides of the story were told, and without delay the Indian was con- victed. But a conviction, however satisfying to the loser, did not repay him for his vanished dollars. So the Boston men look Mr. Indian out, stood him under the forked limb of an immense tree, slipped a noose in the end of a rope over his head and began to tighten it, and told the Indian to prepare to meet his Tenanamus — God. Stoically stood the native, whose only words had been, "Me no take." It looked for a while as if the suspect would be counted among the good Indians within a few moments. But cooler judgment pre- vailed, and as the Siwash affirmed and reaffirmed his "no take," it was decided to let him go. The noose was unfastened and the Indian lost no time in fading away. Years, to the number of twenty-five, passed on — the incident was long since forgotten. The farm on which the money dis- appeared had passed into the hands of a brother of Mrs. Phillips, John Gillispie. One day in plowing up some new land in a freshly cleared field, he caught the glitter of something l)right. Picking up the object, he was amazed to find it to he a $20 gold piece. Gillispie then remembered the story of the loss of the $300 years ago, and searched till he found the entire amount. It had fallen from the man's pocket when he flung it over his arm, and had lain at the foot of a stump all these vears. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 237 BENNETT WILLSON JOHNS The distinction of having been the youngest soldier in the volunteer company enlisted to defend Seattle in the Indian war of 1855-56, belongs to the subject of this sketch, Bennett Willson Johns, who, with his father, brothers and sisters, arrived in Seattle in 1853. Early in the spring of that year the elder Johns, Bennett Lewis, with his wife, Elizabeth Tuttles Johns, and their large family of children, started from their old home in Tennessee, for the West. When the emigrants reached Soda Springs, in Idaho, the wife and mother, with her two weeks' old babe, were taken down with mountain fever, and died after a few days' illness. The eldest daughter, Frances, who had become the wife of Alexander Barnes in the East, but who, with her husband, was also among the emigrants, was also stricken with the same disease and followed her mother within a few days. ]\Iother and daughter sleep side by side in lonely graves in the wilderness. The emigrants resumed their Western march after these bereavements, sad and discouraged, but with no alternative but to push onward. Owing to the delays from sickness and fatigue of the cattle, snow began to fall by the time the train reached the Cascades, and before many days' travel through the mountains were accomplished, it became necessary to abandon the wagons and much of the outfit, and take pack horses with which to continue their journey. Food became so scarce that a messenger was dispatched ahead of the weary emigrants with a prayer for assistance, to the settlers of Seattle. With char- acteristic Western generosity, the appeal was responded to and food and comforts sent back along the trail to relieve the distress of the emigrants. On reaching Puget Sound, the father took up a donation claim in what is now King County, 238; THURSTON COUNTY on the Dnwaraish River, nine miles from Seattle, where he engaged in farming and stock raising*. After the family had lived on the claim tAvo years, the Indian war broke out and the elder Johns and two sons Avere among the first volunteers, and were engaged in the battle of 1856 when the Indians attacked Seattle. Among B. W. Johns' most vivid remembrances, was one morning while the family were at breakfast in their home in the suburbs of the town, Avhere they had moved from the homestead at the time of the massacre on White Eiver, the Indians surrounded the house, driving the father and children into the town. When they returned they found the house had been ransacked by the Klootchman, and all they considered of value w^as taken, including the winter's supply of flour. This was a serious matter. The father and boys had raised the wheat on their own land, the father sowing in the morn- ing as much as the boys could dig into the ground and cover during the rest of the day. Later on this wheat was harvested in the primitive way of the time, threshed with a flail and winnowed in the wind. Then the precious grain was taken by JMr. Johns and Mr. John Collins, in a flat bottomed scow, to Tumwater, where it was ground into flour. When the family arrived in Washington — then Oregon — Mr. Bennett W. Johns was but a mere lad of fourteen, but even at that age he filled a man's part in the struggle which every pioneer had to participate in. After remaining with his father on the claim until he was twenty years of age, he started out in life for himself. When the Frazer River gold excite- ment was claiming many of the pioneers of the infant terri- tory, Mr. Johns joined the rush and mined with considerable success on Puget Sound Bar on the Frazer. Later he turned his energies to fur trading, with much financial success. In 1869, tired of a roving life, the young man came to Olympia, where for fourteen years he was engaged in the sawmill business with his brother-in-law, William H. Mitchell. In 1876, Mr. Johns purchased the fine farm on Bush Prairie which, although he sold it in later years, is still known as the Johns place. He also acquired considerable other valu- able property in Thurston County and in the City of Olympia. In 1872 Mr. Johns enjoyed his greatest piece of good PIONEER REMINISCENCES 235 luck in his successful life — he married Miss Marj^ J. Vertrees. One daughter, Ruth, was born to the 3'oung couple. ]\Ir. B. W. Johns died at the family home in Oljaiipia on December 27, 1905. During Mr. Johns' life he was actively associated with the Independent Order of Odd Fellows, having been Noble Grand in this fraternal organization, and was also a member of the auxiliary — the Rebekahs. He was also at one time Master Workman of the Ancient Order of United Workmen. Both Mr. B. W. Johns and his wife, IMary Vertrees, have been connected with the Baptist Church since the days of their early youth. ]\Iary Vertrees Johns was the daughter of Charles IM. and Mary J. Vertrees, and was born in Pike County, Illinois. October 26, 1851. On February 25, 1872, she became the wife of Bennett Willson Johns, the wedding taking place in OljTnpia, at which place the young lady was a new arrival. At one time Mrs. Johns owned and successfuU.y superin- tended a book bindery in Olympia. She was also first matron of Charleston Cottage for j^oung ladies at Ottawa, Kansas, University in 1892 and 1893. Later ]\Irs. Johns was assistant postmaster in Olympia for a term of seven years beginning April 16, 1898. This lady, while feminine and womanly in the truest sense of the word, is outspoken in her belief that women have an equal right with men in framing laws for the govern- ment and protection of the country, and enjoys the distinction of having been twice elected a delegate to the Republican County Convention in the '80s, when women were given the right to vote, and once elected as degelate to the Territorial Convention. Besides her almost life-long affiliation with the Baptist Church, Mrs. Johns is Past IMatron of the Eastern Star, has been three times president of the Woman's Club of Olympia, twice Noble Grand of the Order of Rebekahs, a member of the Ladies' Relief Society and president of the George H. Thomas Relief Corps. Mrs. Johns has enjoyed extensive travel, not only through the United States, but Mexico and Canada, and in later years toured the European countries. Since the death of her husband Mrs. Johns has efficiently 240 THURSTON COUNTY mauaged the considerable property left her. The only child born to Mr. and Mrs. Johns, Euth V., now Mrs. A. S. Kerfoot, arrived in their home on December 5, 1874, and now makes her home in Lemon Grove, California, with her husband and an interesting family of three boys — Bennett Johns, George Franklin and Robert Arthur. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 241 DR. A. H. STEELE Br. Alden Hatch Steele was an early pioneer of Oregon, coming to that State in 1849 with the 1st Rifle Regiment, U. S. A., crossing the plains to Vancouver. He was born in Oswego, New York, the youngest of three sons of Orlo Steele and Fanny Abbey. The oldest brother. Elijah Steele was a prominent lawyer and for many years was Superior Judge in Siskiyou County, California. The other brother, William, was a graduate of Werst Point, and served in both the Mexican and Civil wars. Dr. Steele graduated from the Medical Department of the University of New York in 1846. At the time he reached Oregon Territory, Oregon City was the principal town, and he settled there, marrying Hannah Hooper Bladder of Marble- head, Mass., who came to Oregon as a teacher under the pro- tection of Rev. G. H. Atkinson, a Congregational clergyman, who had been to the Eastern States asking for volunteers for this work in the new country. Dr. Steele had great influence with the Indians and set- tled many of their disputes. In 1857 he was physician in charge of the Grand Rounde Indian Reservation and again in 1870 served in the same way the Indians of Nesqually, Che- halis and Squaxon Island Reservations, then in charge of Col. Samuel Ross, U. S. A. During the Civil War. Dr. Steele was post surgeon at Fort Dalles and Fort Stevens. Oregon, and Fort Steilacoom, Wash. This last named Post was where the present Insane Asylum is now situated. In 1869 the troops at Fort Steilacoom ^vere ordered to Alaska and Dr. Steele, feeling he had done his share of frontier work, resigned from the army and took up his professional work in Olympia, where he built a home at the southeast cor- ner of Franklin and Tenth Streets and lived until his death, in 1902. 242 THURSTON COUNTY During the years spent in Oregon and Washington he hekl many places of trust and prominence in public affairs. and was widely known as a leading physician and surgeon all through his life. In 1852 Dr. Steele used chloroform in ampu- tating a limb, the first used in surgery north of San Francisco. He was mayor of Oregon City three terms and a mem- ber of the city council eleven years. In Olympia he was an earnest worker for all public improvements, helping to start the first Gas & Power Co., director for many years of the First National Bank, and stockholder in the railroad to Tenino, and the "Olympia" Hotel, built by the citizens by hard efforts tn) help keep the capital on the old historic spot. Dr. Steele was an earnest member of the Episcopal church, and was one of the committee that sent a request to New York in 1853. asking for a Bishop for the Northwest. This request was an- swered by the election of Thomas Feilding Scott, in 1854, as first Missionary Bishop for the Territory of Oregon, a terri- tory then extending over the present State of Washington. He was also a member of the first convocation called by Bishop Scott, to establish the church in this new field. He was al- ways a vestryman of St. John's Church, Olympia, and junior warden and treasurer for twenty years. Dr. Steele was appointed by Gov. Ferry as Regent of the l^uiversity, serving two terms. Also medical examiner of the territorial penitentiary for six years, medical examiner of the New" York Mutual Life Insurance Company for twenty-five years, and for several other life insurance companies. He was an honorary member of both the Oregon and Washington Medical Societies. Dr. Steele died at his home in Olympia, June 29th, 1902. aged 79. He left his w^ife and one daughter, a son having died many years before. His daughter, Fanny Orlo, married in 1878 Russell G. O'Brien of Olympia, who came to Washington in 1870 with Governor Salomon, as Assistant Collector of Internal Revenue. He was known as the "Father of the National Guard of Washington," organizing the first company of the present militia in Olympia in 1882 and serving as Adjutant General of the State for twenty-five years. He died in Pasadena, Cali- PIONEER REMINISCENCES 243 fornia, in February, 1914. General and Mrs. O'Brien had three children, a daughter, Florence Blackler, died in 1883 ; a son, R. Lloyd, who was a prominent student and cithlete at the State University, where he completed his course as a Civil Engineer, died Nor. 26, 1912. The youngest daugh- ter, Helen Steele, married George A. Aetzel, vice president of the Olympia Door Company, and resides in Olympia. One son, Charles Alden, was born in 1912 to Mr. and Mrs. Aet/.el. 244 THURSTON COUNTY THOS. M. MACLEAY Thomas Moore Macleay was born in Willapool, on Lock Broom, in Koss and Cromarty Shires, Scotland. His family v\'as one of the oldest and most prominent in that section and when he was a child his family moved to Richmond, Canada. In 1861, he went into business in Montreal and during the Civil War traveled through the Eastern States, buying what pro- duce he could and shipping to his partner. Hearing through his brother about California and Oregon, he decided to sell out and go there. He then become interested in the firm of Corbett & Mac- leay Co., of Portland, who owned several large vessels and did an immense business all over the Coast and in the Hawaiian Islands. He later visited Puget Sound and decided to cast his lot in Olympia, where he opened a wholesale and retail grocery, below Second on Main street. His stock was so heavy it caused the floor to give way so he built a new place on Main street, between Second and Third streets. His large heart was open to every new comer and he trusted them with goods for months and always had a warm corner and something to eat for everyone. Traveling in those days was very hard and was done most- ly by row boat and horseback. He always had the good of the community at heart and was very enterprising. With Capt. J. G. Parker and Dr. Alden Steele, he built the first steamer, "The Messenger," that made daily trips between Olympia and Tacoma and Seattle. It was considered a wild and unheard of undertaking in those days and was a great event when the boat was launched and made her trial trip as far as Doffe- meyers Point. He married Annie Frost, the youngest sister of Robert Frost, a pioneer of the fifties, and by whom he had five chil- MR. AND MRS. THOMAS MACLEAY PIONEER REMINISCENCES 245 clren. Their first home was the building where Governor Stevens opened the first Territorial Legislature, and where their only son, Lachlan Maclea3^ now a prominent business man of New York, was born. Mr. Macleay died in 1897 and as his old friend, John Miller Murphy wrote of him: "His word was as good as a bond, and his name to an obligation as safe as the paper of the Bank of England." Mrs, Macleay, as a young girl, was one of a group of young people who were the life of the whole community. In the early seventies they organized the Olympia Ama- teur Dramatic Club, whose members were Billy Neat, Robert Frost, Capt. Ballard, (who afterwards founded the town of Ballard), Joe Chilberg, George Blankenship, Sam Woodruff, James Ferry and Professor Roberts, the ladies being Nettie Horton, Gyp Shelton, Ada Woodruff, (who is now Mrs. Oliver Anderson, the noted authoress), Julia Shelton and Annie Frost. They put on these amateur plays in the old Town Hall, the proceeds going for different purposes — -once to paint the hall and again to build a house for a family who had been burned out. 246 • THURSTON COUNTY JUDGE O. B. McFADDEN A sketch of Thurston County's early history without at least a mention of Judge 0. B. McFadden and his family would, indeed, be like a play of Hamlet with Hamlet left out. Born in Pennsylvania of a sturdy and well-to-do family. Judge McFadden spent the early years of his life in that state. There he was married and there his four elder children Avere born. In 1853 President Franklin Pierce appointed the young lawyer, who even then was beginning to attract attention by his legal attainments and tactful statesmanship, to the posi- tion of Circuit Judge over the newlj^ organized Territory of Oregon. Judge McFadden made the trip to his new field of labor by water, crossing the Isthmus and coming on up to San Francisco, then by boat up the Columbia to Vancouver, which was then but little more than a trading post established by the Hudson Bay people. Court was held in the Rogue River country and the Judge would make his visits from Vancouver always on horseback, wnth his legal books and documents packed in his saddle bags. Soon after the formation of Wash- ing Territory, and her separation from Oregon, Judge ]Mc- Fadden was appointed Chief Justice to succeed Edward Lan- der, who was the first Judge to enjoy that honor. The year before his eoming to Olympia. Judge ]\IcFadden had returned to his home in Pennsylvania and yielding to the entreaties of his wife, who could no longer bear separation from her husband, brought his family back with him upon his return to Oregon. ]\Ir. Frank P. McFadden, one of the sons, relates their experiences during their first few weeks in Van- couver. The mother and children were filled with dread and apprehension of the Indians, and before coming West had been told by their friends of the dire fate which would probably await them when they reached the wilds of Oregon. One day the McFadden boys, while playing by the banks of the river. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 247 espied a flotilla of apparently empty canoes and small boats drifting down the Columbia. They rushed to the settlement, giving the alarm that the Indians were coming. Even some of the men who hastened to the river's edge to see the cause of the boys' scare thought they were correct, for the long string of boats were certainly approaching and it was thought that in the bottom of each canoe was lying a savage buck with his gun pointed toward them. But when the boats came near enough for thorough investigation, they were seen to be, in- deed, empty, and it afterwards proved the craft had been made a few miles up the river and were being brought down for sale among the settlers. Another scare the McFaddens experienced was one dark night after they had all retired, the mother and children were awakened by the most terrible yelling and screaming. Sure now that the Indians had come and were murdering everyone in Vancouver; they cowered in their beds in the dark wonder- ing what moment their time would come. Morning broke, however, and they were surprised to find themselves still alive. Making their way to the nearest neighgbors they were relieved to learn that the horrid sounds had been made by a pack of coyotes which had fallen upon the carcass of a horse lying in the brush not far from the McFadden home. In 1873 Judge McFadden was elected a delegate to Con- gress on the Democratic ticket, defeating Selucius Garfielde on the Republican ticket. The next two busy years were spent in Washington, D. C. Judge ]\IcFadden died in Olympia in 1875, shortly after the expiration of his term as delegate. The McFadden home, on a point of land overlooking the Sound, was for years one of the beauty spots of Olympia. but the march of progress has developed business establishments in the neighborhood and detracted from the loveliness of the view once to be obtained from the windows of what was, in its days, considered a mansion. In this home for many years after the death of her husband lived ]\Irs. j\IcFadden, who finally, in 1904, sank to rest. The children of Judge and Mrs. McFadden are : Mrs. Mary Miller, of Seattle ; 0. B. McFadden, Jr., Franls P. and J. Cal McFadden of Olympia, R. N. McFadden of Seward, Alaska, and Mrs. L. P. Oiielette, of Olympia. 248 THURSTON COUNTY EDMOND AND CROWELL H. SYLVESTER The pioneers who are the subjects of this sketch are too well known, and their pioneer experiences have been so oft related that the compiler can give but little more than a repeti- ti >n of facts which are already history. Fishermen bold were these brothers, descended from a long line of fishermen, who made their home at Deer Isle, Maine, the spirit and love of danger and adventure was born with them. In 1846, the elder brother, Edmond, came to Puget Sound, locating first on a claim on what later became known as Chambers' Prairie. Syl- vester's nearest neighbor was Nathan Eaton, the first settler on this prairie. Sylvester had as partner a man named Smith, who selected for his claim the half section of ground where Olympia now stands. There was a mutual agreement that in the event of the death of either of the partners, the survivor should own the whole of both claims. Sylvester and Smith, even then, had faith that a town Avould be built on the location ; indeed, the partners planned to lay out a town site themselves. To this new town they planned to give the name Smithter, combining their names. In 1848 Smith, Avho was subject to epilepsy, was found dead in his boat, in which he was intending to make a trip to attend the Oregon Legislature, of which he had been elected a mem- ber. By the agreement Sylvester inherited Smith's claim and from that time on for many years the town and its develop- ment became his chief interest in life. He changed the name of the settlement to Olympia and his generosity in bestowing tracts of land to the city to be used for public purposes is well known. The beautiful little park, now known as Capital Square, but for many years called Sylvester Park, a half block of land west of the Capitol Building for the location of Olym- pia's first school house, and the ten acres donated to the State in Capitol Park on wdiich are located the executive mansion PIONEER REMINISCENCES 249 and the foundation for the State Capitol buildings, are among his magnificent bequests. AVhen Edmond had lived in the West about four years he sent for his brother, Crowel H. Sylvester, to join him. Mrs. Edmond Sylvester was escorted by her brother-in-law in her journey from the old home to join her husband. C. H. Sylvester, upon his arrival in the territory, located upon his claim, not far from South Bay. He was the pioneer settler in this section and was obliged to cut the trail through the dense woods to reach his claim. The first hotel this city could boast of was run by the Sylvester Brothers, a two-room shack, cloth lined, the Avhole building being but 16x24 feet in size, with bunks for the ac- commodation of guests. Edmund Sylvester was one of the owners of the brig Orbit, which came here in 1849, with a party of California gold seek- ers, Capt. W. H. Dunham. This ship was the first owned on Puget Sound, the forerunner of the vast fleet now plying these waters. Edmund Sylvester built his home on the block now facing the postoffice building on Main Street and for many years it was considered the finest home in Washington. And when he ended this world's activities in the late '80 's, his brother Crowell Sylvester, continued to live on his valuable farm till the time of his death in the early part of this century. 250 THURSTON COUNTY GENERAL WILLIAM WINLOCK MILLER From teaching school in a remote village in Illinois for a monthly salary of $10 to amassing a million dollar fortune- is the record of W. W. Miller, whose memory is prominent in the minds of the remaining pioneers of his day. After receiving his education in Illinois and, with patient frugality acquiring enough money to defray his ex- penses to the Far West, the young man arrived in Olympia in 1853, his entire fortune comprising only a few hundred dollars. With the business sagacity and perspicuity which was Mr. j\Iiller's main characteristic, he at once began to invest in Olympia property, buying and selling, loaning money to those less fortunate than himself, his speculations ever attended with signal success. ]\Ir. Miller, however, is not only to be remem- bered as a successful business man, but also a patriot and brave soldier as well. lie was one of the first to enlist in the ranks of volunteers organized for the defense of the country in the Indian war of 1855-56, rapidly rising from the ranks until he was finally made Commissary General and staff officer to Gov- ernor I. I. Stevens, and this executive was emphatic in affirm- ing that much of the success in quelling the Indian disturb- ances was due to the able and efficient men vrho composed his staff. Mr. Hazard Stevens, in his "Life of Governor Stevens," gives the following high praise to General W. W. Miller, as having imparted "extraordinary efficiency to the quartermas- ters' and commissary's departments, the most difficult of all These departments, generally kept distinct, was a single depart- ment in the service. It was General Miller who collected, large- ly' by impressment, organized and led out into the Indian coun- try the large ox train, which hauled out three months' supplies for the volunteers in the beginning of the campaign, v/ithout which it could not have been waged. He was distinguished by remarkable sound sense and judgment and Governor Stevens PIONEER REMINISCENCES 251 counseled with and relied upon him more than any other. And after the close of the Indian war General Miller was Governor Stevens' closest friend in the territory." When Governor Stevens issued his order disbanding the volunteer organization General Miller took steps to sell at public auction the animals, equipment and supplies at hand and settling the accounts. The sales of property realized $150,- 000, the articles sold generally bringing more than the original cost, and the sum realized was more than enough to defray the entire cost of the expedition. After the close of the war Gov- ernor Stevens was successful in having the territory made a separate Indian Superintendency and General W. W. Miller was appointed Superintendent General, which important posi- tion he filled with credit to himself and with satisfaction of the Governor. In politics General Miller was an unsv/erving Demo- crat and took an active part in the Stevens' campaign when the latter was seeking re-election as a Territorial Delegate to Congress. Among the papers preserved by Governor Stevens was a letter written him by his friend General Miller, when the Governor was in Washington, D. C, which reads: "I believe that National Democracy can verily keep possession of the territory. Your own prospects are good. Now that you have won a National fame, you will always be looked upon as the leading man in the Northwest, and you cannot be beaten at the next election." General W. W. Miller secured as his bride ]Miss Mary Mc- Fadden, an undisputed belle of Olympia and two handsome sons were born to them, Winlock and Pendelton. The General's death occurred in Olympia, and his son, Pendelton, in Seattle, both being interred in Masonic cemetery. Mrs. Miller and her son, Winlock Miller, now make their home in Seattle, although Mrs. Miller has large property hold- ings still in Olympia. Several years ago IMrs. ]Miller presented to the city of Olympia the valuable block of land on which is now situated the Winlock Miller High School. 252 THURSTON COUNTY CHRISTOPHER COLUMBUS SIMMONS To see and talk with the first white child born north and west of the Columbia River was one of the delightful ex- periences of the compiler upon one of her quests for remi- niscences of old timers. C. C. Simmons and his wife have their home in a cozy nook on the east shore of Mud Bay, where Mr. Simmons is the owner of valuable oyster and clam beds. Here for the past dozen years this Avorthy couple have lived in quiet content. Their children married and Vv'ith homes of their ovrn, frequently come to visit their father and mother, holding fast to family ties, and keeping in touch with their parents. The coming of the Simmons family to the West has been tcld so often by abler historians that the present writer feels that a brief mention of these, among the very first settlers in this county, will suffice here. Col. Michael T. Simmons, of Irish ancestry, although born in Kentucky, was among the hardy immigrants who dared to venture into the totally unknovvm wilderness of Puget Sound as early as 1844. Married and with four sons, Simmons, whose indominable spirit refused to be disheartened or depressed, joined the ox train of fortune seekers, among whom were the men and women who were to lay the foundation of the magnificent develop- ment of this section of the Puget Sound country. The fam- ilies who, with Simmons, finally settled in what is now Thurs- ton County were : James McAllister and his wife, Martha, their children, George, America, who afterwards became Mrs. Thomas Chambers; Martha, afterwards the wife of Joseph Bruuston, and John ; David Kindred and his wife Talitha, and son, John K. ; Gabriel and Mrs. Keziah B. Johns, their sons, Lewis and Morris, and daughter Elizabeth, who married Jo- seph Broshears in 1852, and the Bush family, consisting of George and Isabelle J., father and mother, William Owen, Jo- seph Talbot, Reily B., Henry Sandford and Jackson January. The party had wintered in Vancouver while Simmons and ■PIOlSrEEK REMINISCENCES 253 some of the other men had made the trip up the Cowlitz River to ascertain the value of the land, quality of timber and pros- pect for wresting a livelihood from the wilds. But in the fall of 1845 they all brought their families to the Sound. Simmons located his claim at the falls of the Deschutes River, which Avas then known by the Indians as "Tumchuek"— throbbing water. The Bush family took up land on the edge of the prairie, v.'hich has ever since been called bj- their name. Kindred's claim was just south of what is now Olympia, and the 3IcAllis- ters were eventually located near the Nesqually Fdver. Sim- mons laid out the town of New Market, now Tumwater, and in the fall of IS 16 built the first grist mill north of the Co- lumbia. This historic mill was roughly built of logs, with its mill stones made from fiat boulders found in the stream whose waters turned the rude wheel. From this coarse, unbolted flour, the first bread from home grown wheat was made, and this bread was considered a great luxury after a diet of dried peas, and boiled wheat, which had formed the staple diet before the completion of the mill. Before coming to Puget Sound, while the Simmons were wintering on the north bank of the Columbia, near Washougah the irrepressible Christopher Columbus was born. This history is now continued in C. C. Simmons' own v\^ords. ''Yes, I reckon I was the first white child born in this neck of the woods, and father and mother seemed to think be- cause I enjoyed this distinction I must have discovered the country, so they called me Christopher Columbus. I first saw the light of day April 10, 1845, and mj' birth chamber was a sheep pen with a canvas stretched over the roof to keep part of the rain from mother and me. There were eleven children in our family — the boys, George Washington, David C, Mar- ion Francis and McDonald, were older than me and crossed the plains with father and mother. Then I came next and younger than me were : Benjamin Franklin, Charlotte, JIary, Kate, Charles Mason and dad's namesake Michael T. Of thes(^ children David and McDonald are dead, Marion lives in Puy- allup, Benjamin F. in Seattle, Charlotte is Mrs. Kuntz. of Chehalis, Mary is Mrs. Holmes, living in IMassachusetts. Kate married a man named Kantwell. Charles J\I. lives in Puyallup and Michael in Ellensburg. 254 THURSTON COUNTy "During the Indian v:ar we were all forted in the Collins blockhouse where is now Arcadia, but I was not old enough to take an active part in that trouble. I have always been poor in this world's goods and am glad of it. There is the less danger of being robbed, although I have had my chances for wealth more than most. "One time when I was working for my uncle. Dr. May- nard, who was one of the first settlers of King County, he made me a present of a deed to 160 acres of what is now AVest Seattle. I held on to it for a while and then found it too troublesome to care for the deed and to keep the small amount of taxes paid, so I gave it back to Uncle IMaynard, much to his disgust. He thought I must have very little sense not to hang' on to what he knew would be very valuable at some not far-off day. "Father died on his farm in Lewis County a long time ago and mother lived until about 24 years ago, spending her last days in Shelton. When I was nineteen years of age I was married to Asenath Ann Kennedy, who was but four- teen, and has been my true and faithful wife for fifty years of wedded happiness. Of course, we had to elope, for her parents would not give consent till she was at least out of school. I rowed, one dark night, from the Big Skookum to Steilacoom, where Ann was attending school, picked her up at a point we had agreed on and then we made our way to Seattle. "Even in those days a girl had to be at least eighteen before she could marry Avithout her parents' sanction. Well, we hardly knew what to do. So when we got to Seattle we went to Uncle Maynard for advice. This good man considered a moment and then said to Ann 'Take off your shoes.' She did so and Dr. Maj^nard wrote the figures 18 on two slips of paper and put them in her shoes. Ann caught on as quick as lightning. A few minutes later we stood up before Rev. Daniel Bagley, who asked her age. 'Why, I'm over eighteen,' she said as bland as milk, and so we were married and have lived happily together. "On August 25th, 1914, we celebrated our golden wed- ding at our home on ]Mud Bay, with all of our nine children and our grandchildren around us." piointeer reminiscences 2B5 HARVEY R, WOODARD. The account given by the pioneer son of a pioneer father of their early days on Puget Sound presents a photographic reproduction of the scenes and experiences which are now but a dream of by-gone days. Alonzo B. Woodard, senior repre- sentative of one of Thurston County's best known pioneer fam- ilies tells the following: "Father, mother and we three boys, Theodore, Delbert out our plans for amusement ourselves, and we Avere a happy, contented group, working with painstaking diligence, out of school hours, and when the "chores" were attended to, perfecting our plans, for the standard Avas high, and na slip- shod work was recognized. Almost every family employed a Chinaman, three inviting substantial meals were well served daily, the cake and cookie boxes, the doughnut jar, were never allowed to bcome empty, that these staples might always be at hand to "pass around" in the evening, or to assist a neighbor in case of need. We did not lack for delicacies, or "frilly" things upon occasion, for all the women of that da.y were able to achieve wonderful results in cookery that would grace the most elaborate func- tion today. This, I think, explains the leisure the women of that day enjoj^ed, they did not allow themselves to "get behind." During the summer the evenings Avere spent on the Avater. Words fail me to describe the beaut.y of this bay, as I knoAv it, PIONEER REMINISCENCES 347 entirely free from piles or obstruction, spanned by the bridge from Fourth Street to AVest Olympia, with a pebbly beach wherever one might choose to land ; and it was an enrapturing sight on a summer's evening, dotted with boats from the landing to the falls at Tumwater, with sailboats in the distance Avith one of our gorgeous sunsets casting a glow over the water, and the sound of music greeting the ear. The boat house and float was located at the west end of First Street and owned by my uncle, Mr. J. H. Cleale. There were boats of all sizes from very large sailboats with a seating capacity of about twenty-five, to two of the daintiest racing shells, thirty feet in length I have ever seen. The boats were the Whitehall pattern, built by my uncle, and most beautifully kept. He equipped a small scow with music racks, lighted it with torches, for the use of the band. Two boats were reserved, one for a girls boat club (Annie Stevens, Jessie Lowe, Belle Evans, Fanny Steele, Lizzie Ferry), and one for boys (James Ferry, S. M. Percival, S. C. Woodruff, Frank Treen. J. C. Percival"). Immediately after dinner young and old strolled down to the landing and embarked. Many families owned a boat and it was the custom for the entire family to go out for a "row on the bay"; the rowing was often drifting, the boats keeping near each other, while we sang, or some one recited, as the spirit moved us, for we sang whenever we got together, on the water, around a camp fire, or in a home. There was no "younger set", we enjoyed our elders and they enjoyed us. We felt no restraint in their presence and were all happy together. So united were we that it was quite the usual cus- tom for a youth of eighteen or twenty years to follow men like Governor Ferry or Elwood Evans in contributing to the pleasure of the evening, and he did it (if called upon) without diffidence or hesitation, merel}" a conscientious desire to "do his part." Illustrative of the capability of the young "to carry the thing through," for some reason, one year there were no preparations made for the celebration of the Fourth of July. The Band boys set to work, raised the money, almost $1000, and the result was a day's program, commencing at 9 a. m. which "went off" without a hitch or any delay, and which entertained and amused the citizens of the town and all the surrounding country. In the "Calathumpian Parade," jMr. 348 THURSTON COUNTY Woodruff as the "Goddess of Liberty" on a pretentions float, Avas resplendent in a blonde wig made from large hawser rope; the other details of his costnme were as original as the wig. (No one was improvident, costnmes and trappings were always carefnlly "put away for the next time.") Charles B. Hopkins, grandson of the late Col. E. D. Baker, was (if I mistake not) Marshall of the Day. The nsnal exer- cises took place on the Public Square, the Rev. Mr. letter, Chaplain. Every other position throughout the day was filled by boys, the eldest of whom could not have been over eighteen years of age. S. C. Percival read the "Declaration" and was coached in his rendition by the Hon. Elwood Evans. S. C. Woodruff, a humorist of no mean order, was Orator of the Day. He advanced to the Speaker's stand, with an armful of shingles, upon which his "oration" was written. As he warmed to his subject he would absent-mindedly (?) bring a shingle down upon the table, with such emphasis, that it was splintered and when he concluded, he stood ankle-deep in kindling wood ; the expression of astonishment and dismay which overspread his face whenever this happened was worthy ()f the "Inimitable Woodruff", as he was called in after years. Lest some captious person might imagine that he had been disrespectful to the great and glorious day. when the laughter and applause had died away, Mr. Woodruff drew a neat manuscript from his pocket, and, with great dignity, delivered a short but well written address. (In late years Mr. Woodruff has found a field for his talent as leader and organizer and has succeeded in training and developing the poor deficient little ones, vv^hom he has in his care, as no one else has been able to do. For several years programs have been received of the Christmas week Cantatas and plays — usually three days — in which the children at the School for Defective Youth, of which Mr. Woodruff is Superintendent, have taken part). A "Glee Club" of boys assisted, the water sports and boat races were very interesting, performed as they were by boj's who had spent a large portion of their lives in and on Budd's Inlet. I do not wish to give the impression that our elders had no festivities except those they shared with the young. The "Merry Bachelors" Club was in existence for several years, and their winter club dances were very PIONEER REMINISCENCES 349 enjoyable, charming evening parties were given in private homes, delightful evening receptions were given by Colonel and I\Irs. Ross, Superintendent of Indian Affairs, and at New Year's and other appropriate days it was the custom to give a. large ball. S. I\I. Percival (also his brother, John), having attended the California Military Academy, in Oakland, Cal., and knov»^- ing the salutary effect of military training, organized July IS, 1S84, the Washington Cadets, a company of boys who were not old enough to join the Territorial Militia, and the upper floor of the old warehouse, previously mentioned, was used as an Armory and drill room. A press notice says, "To be a successful leader and instructor of boys is a natural talent vrhich is given to very few, and recognizing this fact, and the importance of the service done the boys of the city by Captain Percival, certain of his friends conceived the idea of present- ing him some testimonial of their appreciation of his efforts." On the afternoon of September 24, 1885: "The Capitol Guard, Capt. J. C. Ten Eyck, escorted the Washington Cadets to the Public Square, where the Olympia Cornet Band and a large audience w^ere in waiting. Gov. Watson C. Squire, who had made a special trip from Seattle to be present, attended by Hon. T. M. Reed and Major J. R. Hayden, approached the line, and with fitting remarks presented Captain Percival, on behalf of the friends of the Company, with a beautiful sword and belt." The proficiency of the Cadets was such that the Governor said that he thought the AVashington Cadets to be the best drilled company in the Territory. The same press notice says further "on all occasions when a public escort has been re- quired, the Washington Cadets have been ready and willing to turn out, and have added very much to the public parades which have taken place this summer. Especially did the Cadets show to advantage on the occasion of the Territorial Muster in this city, when they spent two days in Camp with the ]\Iilitia, and by their courteous demeanor and soldierly bearing, they won the respect of the whole Camp." On another occasion a Cadets Ball was given and the newspaper of that date records, "At this time the Cadets under connnand of Capt. S. M. Percival, First Lieut. Fred Smith, SoO THURSTON COUNTY Second Lieut. Bates Cavanaiigh, marched into the hall with that precision of movement which so marks their drill. Here- upon Miss Janet Moore appeared upon the stage, and with an appropriate address presented to the Cadets a banner, -\vhich the ladies of Olympia had purchased for them. The banner is four by six, a solid piece of blue silk. On each side there is painted in artistic style, the Coat of Arms of the Territory with its legend 'Al-ki' — after a little while. There is also pa'inted upon each side the words 'Washingt-^n Cadets'. It is a beautiful banner, the finest of its kind in the Territory. The roster of the Company is as folloAvs : Harry Cowles, Geo. Libby, Horace Percival, W. J. Foster, Harry Crosby, Wood Boane, Nathan Wolf, Charles Leighton, James Hayden, Eltney Van Epps, Bates Cavanaugh, Robt. Blankenship, Fred Smith, Frank Carroll, Willie Young, David Baker, Geo. Doane, Win- lock Miller, Arlie Van Epps, Van Woodard, Walter Smith, Dave Williams, Pendleton ililler, Henry Kuykendall, Willi? Page, Oscar Craig, Geo. Buchanan, Frank Murphy." As I have stated, in the early settlement of the Territory, the only way of traveling was by canoe or rowboat on the v/ater, and on horseback following the "blazed" trail on land. Later the trail was widened to a road, but even then a winter trip from Puget Sound to the Columbia River was often a thrilling experience. In the summer and as many of the winter months as possible, the conveyance was the picturesque stage coach of story and theater renown — but usually for a longer or shorter period in the wdnter the road became so nearly impassable that the vehicle known to early settlers as a "dead axe" wagon was used. For small parties, or when the booking over-ran the seating capacity of the regular stage, an "extra" was put on. This was a miniature stage coach which accom- modated but six inside passengers and one outside with the driver — and a small "boot" not sufficient for large trunks, which either followed or preceded the "extra." An important feature of the luggage of those days was the large, well filled lunch baskets, for there vvas a delightful sense of uncertainty about reaching the regular stations. As no guest or member of a family ever set out upon a journey without partaking of a hot substantial breakfast, served not later than 3:30 o'clock a. m., housekeepers will appreciate what the matrons of that PIONEER REMINISCENCES 351 day did, in a social way, in "speeding the parting guest." The expenses of the trip Vv-ere from $20 to $25 — $15 for the stage ride with meals and steamer ticket extra. In February, 1871, a party composed of Lizzie P. Ferry (;i\Irs. John Leary), Belle T. Evans (Mrs. Samuel Wilkeson), Fanny 0. Steele* (Mrs. R. G. O'Brien), Stella Galliher and myself, escorted by my father, left Olympia in an "extra" at 4 o'clock — the regular hour for the departure of the stage. IMy father was enroute to San Francisco, and the girlr^, traveling in his care, were on their way to enter the Easter term at St. Helen's Hall, which had been founded in 1869 at Port- land, Ore. The parents of these girls had welcomed the oppor- tunity of giving such superior educational advantages to their daughters, and I wish it were in my power to properly express what the establishment of St. Helen's Hall at that early day, meant to the girls of the entire Northwest. That I could pay a proper tribute to the character of Mary B. Rodney, for twenty years principal of the school. A woman descended from a titled family in England, and from Caesar Rodney, signer of the "Declaration of Independence," of rare schol- astic attainments, of cultured mind and lofty purpose, she left an ineffaceable stamp upon a generation of women. On the first day of our journey the breakfast and dinner stations were reached without mishap ; at the noon stopping place we found Mr. R. G. O'Brien, who was Deputy Collector of Internal Revenue. He was making the trip on horseback and joined our party. About the middle of the afternoon, in going over a piece of "corduroy" and "chuck holes" we suddenly came to an abrupt standstill with a broken axle. Bj' the time a small fir tree had been felled and lashed in place, the daylight was fast waning, and we were unable to reach McDonald's, where we had intended to pass the night. We v'ere hospitably cared for by a Frenchman named Bernier. The family spoke English very imperfectly, and doubtless were severely taxed to provide accommodation for a party of eight on short notice. Mr. O'Brien, ]\Ir. Percival and the driver were disposed of in the attic. The Bernier family oc- cupied the floor of the living room, and the "best room" where the "Lares and Penates" of the household were carefully kept, was given to the girls. The second day on arriving at 'AL-2 THURSTON COUNTY Pnmplireys' (Oleqiia) we found Colonel Pardee, Chief Clerk to Colonel Ross. He also joined the party and we embarked shortly after noon in a small canoe. (I regret that I can not give the dimensions, but I have a distinct recollection that we were packed in.) Eight persons with a corresponding number of umbrellas and hand-bags, as the receptacle then used was called, five lunch baskets, besides the Indian who sat at the rear end and guided the canoe, made up the cargo and pas- senger list on the voyage. All sat "tailor fashion" and thus Ave ''shot the rapids" on the Cowlitz Fiver, arriving about dusk at Freeport, Avhere we made the acquaintance of Dr. N. Ostrander and his family. We were lifted out of the canoe so wet and bedraggled, that we must have presented a forlorn appearance. (It was never possible to raise an umbrella, as it was necessary for the Indian to keep his gaze constantly fixed on the boAv of the canoe.) Never shall I forget the heart}' welcome given us, the kindly attention lavished on us by Dr. Ostrander 's daughters, never will the remembrance fade of the sense of peace and satisfaction produced by the cheer and comfort of that well ordered home. After a refreshing night's sleep Ave left Freeport about noon on the "Wenat", AA-hich Avas the smallest and dirtiest steniAvheel steamer I haA^e eA^er seen. At j\Ionticello Ave trans- ferred to the sternAvheel steamer "Fanny Troupe" reaching our destination, St. Helen's Hall, at 9 o'clock on the evening of the third day from home, AA^here Ave Avere greeted by our t )AAnsAvoman, ]\Iiss Lydia H. Blackler, Avho Avas a teacher of literature, langnages, and higher mathematics in the school. The return trip in the latter part of June Avas quite a different matter, and was made in tAvo days and one night. The con- dition of the road at that season of the year permitted staging "over the mountains" as far as "Huntingtons" (jMonticello), and the big stage coach made the entire trip. The choice seats Avere those outside and aboA^e the driver's seat and Avere always the first to be booked. The effect of the light and shade in the "forest primeval" produced by the lengthening tAvilight and rising moon on those rides of a summer evening, Avhich Avere extended to midnight, if the distance to the next half-Avay house demanded it, made a panorama that could PIONEER REMINISCENCES 353 scarcely fail to arouse a sense of the artistic, however dormant it might be. In January, 1872, I was stricken with illness and my mother deemed it best to come to my bedside. She gave my oldest brother a vacation from school, and entrusted my baby brother to his care. A neighbor kindly came each morning to bathe and dress the baby, and the care of the child during the day devolved upon "Sam", who was perfectly competent to put him to bed. For three and one-half weeks, he was faithful to his trust, and my mother's confidence was not mis- placed. He taught the baby to walk by the original method of lying flat on his back with my father's cane extended at full length to the end of which my brother Horace clung, go- ing round and round in a circle. His boy friends, with the helpfulness which characterized pioneer life, played in the street in front of the sitting-room windows, that he might not be entirely left out of their sports. On her return he XH'oudly delivered his charge to my mother without a "bump" or a scratch to report. Cold had set in, and roads were nothing but frozen "hum- mocks" and deep mud holes coated with ice. However, the stage set out with several passengers. Mr. George Coggan, the U. S. mail contractor, rode a horse belonging to his wife. The horse was a beautiful glossy black creature, but hard even when the road was favorable. At the breakfast station the stage had to be abandoned and the passengers were obliged to mount the horses. My mother was first placed on one of the stage horses enveloped in a blanket which was securely pinned to protect her from the bitter cold. After a time the jarring caused by the heavj^ horse breaking the thin ice and plunging violently into the deep holes, became so fatiguing that she. was changed to Mrs. Coggan 's horse, which she rode the rest of the way. The going was so slow and laborious that it was exceedingly trying to the nerves of one who was con- sumed with anxiety. When a stretch of road was reached which appeared to be a little smoother, mother, being in the lead, attempted to go a little faster. This effort came to naught, however, for Mr. Coggan soon espied her and shouted 854 THURSTON COUNTY at the top of his voice, "For God's sake, Mrs. Percival, do not let that horse trot on this gronnd, he will kill you." The night was spent at McDonald's. Pumphrey's Avas reached the next day and from there she took a canoe to Monticello. From Monticello a steamer was taken to Port- land, and in this Avay my mother accomplished what any anxious mother would do today in six hours. My mother decided to bring me back home for a time to recruit my strength. "We left Portland on the California, making month- ly or semi-monthly trips to the Sound by way of Victoria, and we were detained for five days "bar bound" at Astoria; the Captain each day running down to the Columbia River bar but owing to a storm raging outside, would be unable to cross out and would be compelled to return to Astoria. During these five days my life-long friend, Helen F. Parker, (Mrs. Herbert IMcMicken), ministered to me devotedly. (Captain Parker, with his family, was returning to Olympia after a few years' residence in Portland). One of the kindly duties she imposed upon herself was to bring me fresh water to drink from a spring she had found on shore. Not content with describing the beauty of the spring to me, she one day came bearing a short, broad board with a replica of the spring made with earth, twigs and ferns, the spring represented by a tiny tin cup she had bought for the purpose. Then, as now, she could find "Sermons in stones; lessons in running brooks, and good in everything." These incidents are not cited because they were excep- tional ones, but they are what might reasonably be expected to occur on any winter trip to reach the Columbia River. Now and then, alas! some traveller did not reach his journey's end — an over-turned canoe — a plunge over a precipice— but — these accidents were rare. The wonderful skill and dexterity exercised by the In- dians who guided and controlled the canoes in that whirling, eddying river, was almost marvelous in its way; something we shall not see again. The almost human intelligence of the stage horses — the thrill and quick response to the command of the driver, in a moment of danger — aroused a feeling in the human heart akin to respect for such noble animals. The Portland Oregonian has lately said : ' ' There is not m.uch that savors of romance in the rapid life we now lead. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 355 "All of the fine veneering of modern civilization has failed to restore the wild beauty of the original social struc- ture of the State. "Modern civilization and its attendant comfort and luxuries which came with the railroad, are fully appreciated, and none of us, perhaps, wish to return to the old days." But we "old settlers" are fortunate in the possession of experiences and memories which we would not surrender, and which cannot be wrested from us. A positive knowledge of that era of brotherly love and universal inclination to help each other ; and we experience a shock and sense of loss when we hear of the passing of those friends of foi^mer days. THE SETTLEMENT OF HAWK'S PRAIRIE Mr. George H. Himes, Secretary of the Oregon Historical Society, has contributed the following interesting reminis- cences : "The first family to settle on what is now commonly known as Hawk's Prairie, although erroneously so, was Free- num W. Tyrrell, who, in 1851, came with his wife and six step children to take up a donation claim of 640 acres on the southeastern portion of this prairie. The names of the step children were Levi, Jonathan Davis, Mary, Rebecca Jane and William T. Prince. Two boys were born to them a few years later — Judson and Squire. The family remained on this place until late in the '60s, when it removed to the Lincoln Creek settlement. All the family are now dead except Mrs. Layton and William. "The next settlers upon Tyrell's (Hawk's) Prairie were as follows: Elijah Tyrrell, in the edge of the timber at the ex- treme northern end of the prairie ; Mr. Klady and his son William, on a place west of the Freeman W. Tyrrell place. 356 THURSTON COUNTY bordering the eastern shore of Long Lake, a little way south of the present Union Mills; David Phillips, the grandfather of Mrs. H. B. HeElrov, of Olympia, northeast of the Klady claim; Henry Fowler, in the extreme western edge of the prairie, which would be just north of Union Mills — all taking their claims late in 1851 or in the fall of 1852. In the latter part of October, 1853, my father, Tyrus Himes, bought the improvements of Fowler for fifty dollars, settled upon that place November 9th following, and spent the last twenty-five years of his life there, and thus became the second permanent settler upon that prairie. The original claim was 320 acres, and the larger portion of it is now owned by David Fleetwood. "Early in November, 1853, C. B. Baker bought the im- l)rovements on the David Phillips claim, and with his family of a wife and three children — James E., John W., and Leander M. — Stayed there until the spring of 1854, when he and his family removed to Grand Mound Prairie and secured a claim on Scatter Creek, a short distance west of Rochester. The surviving members of the Baker family — John W. and Leander H. — are now residents of Portland, Oregon, the latter a suc- cessful teacher in the public schools. "The third family to settle on Tyrell (Hawk's) Prairie was that of John W. Hawk. He came from Indiana to Oregon across the plains in 1852, first settling in Portland. His wife died in December of that year, leaving six children, all boys, as follows: Albert, Wilson, William, Frank, Samuel and I\Iel- vin. These children were provided with homes among other pioneer families until the summer of 1855, when Mr. Hawk was married to Mrs. Sarah Stephens Hawks, whose husband was drowned near Astoria, February 24, 1854. Soon after their marriage Mr. and Mrs. Hawks removed to Olympia, and in August, 1855, moved to Tyrrell Prairie, locating on the next claim east of the Himes (now Fleetwood) place, and gathered his children together. "Tyrus Himes was born at Troy, Bradford County, Penn- sylvania, April 14, 1818, and while living in what was then the frontier, and lacking educational advantages was a man of marked intelligence and ability and was well known among his associates as an exceedingly well posted man regarding current events, particularly respecting all phases of farm life. He became a warm friend of Owen Bush who told me in later TYRUS HIMES MRS. EMIIvINE HIMES GEORGE H. HIMES PIONEER REMINISCENCES 357 years that whatever he had accomplished in an agricultural line — and he has won several gold medals for his exhibits — he owed in a great measure to father's advise and instruc- tions. "On May 1, 1843, Mr. Himes was married to Emilinc Holcombe. She was also a native of Bradford County, Penn- slyvania, born December 28, 1821, her parents removing thither in 1796 from Connecticut. Her earliest ancestors came to Massachusetts from Devonshire, England, in 1630. "In the spring of 1853 Mr. and Mrs. Himes with their family of four children, George H, Helen Z., Judson W. and Lestina Z., and four other persons, Joel Risdon and his son, Henry, a j^outh of twelve years, Charles R. Fitch and Fred- erick Burnett, and the additional family of John Dodge, wife and five children, Robert Bruce, Francis Marion, Daniel, Samuel Ives and Desdemona, started across the plains to Oregon. The two families separated at the immigrant camp ground on the Umatilla River, the Dodge family going to JMarion County, Willamette Valley, and the Himes family and the four persons mentioned went to Puget Sound, via Natchez Pass, 25 miles north of Mt. Rainier, in company with a number of other families and single men, the total number being 170 — the first direct immigration to the Puget Sound basin. Late in 1853 Robert Bruce Dodge left the Willamette Valley and settled on Mima Prairie ; his parents and the remainder of the family soon followed him and settled in the same locality. "In October, 1854, Mr. Himes, associated with Joseph Benson Roberts, a well-to-do logger, established the first boot and shoe shop in Olympia — the first in the State of Wash- ington. During the winter of 1854-55, William Wright, a saddle and harness-maker, established himself in Olympia — the first in that line in Washington. Mr. Himes followed boot and shoe-making until 1866, when he retired to his farm for the remainder of his life, his death occurring on April 22, 1879. In 1884 the widow sold the farm to the present owner and removed to Elma, Chehalis County, and spent the remainder of her life, her death occurring on October 29, 1898. "George H. Himes was born in Pennsylvania, May 18, 1844. Prior to crossing the plains from Illinois to Puget Sound in 1853, he went to school fifteen months. In Thurston Coun- ty he went to school three months a year from 1854 to 1859. 358 THURSTON COUNTY On June 10, 1861, he began typesetting on the Washington Standard, Olympia, for 3Ir. John jMiller jMurphy, and worked in his office most of the time until March 10, 1864, when he went to Portland, the trip at that time requiring three days. On March 13th, he began setting type on the Oregonian, and remained in that office until June 3, 1865. A few weeks later he began working in a job printing office, and on October 5, 1868, went into business for himself, and carried on the job printing business until January 1, 1899, when he was asked by the Board of Directors of the Oregon Historical Society. organized on December 17, 1898, to become the assistant, or Field Secretary. In June, 1886, Mr. Himes was elected Secre- tary of the Oregon Pioneer Association, and has held that position without interruption up to the present time. The acquaintance thus gained has given him a great opportunity to gather an unusually large fund of information about the early pioneers of the Pacific Northwest, and this he has sought to improve to the best of his ability. He was married in Saiem, Oregon, December 24, 1866, to ^liss Anna F. Riggs. and eleven children were born to the union — nine daughters and two sons — and five daughters and one son are now living in Portland and vicinity, the others having passed away. "The second, third and fourth children of i\Ir. and ]\Irs. Himes, are as follows : Mrs. Helen Z. Ruddell, born in Stark County, Illinois, February 6, 1848, widow of the late William II. Ruddell, a pioneer of Thurston County in 1852, and since 1879 she has lived near Elma, Chehalis County; Judson W. Himes, born in Stark County, Illinois, March 9, 1850, learned the baking business in Olympia, afterwards took a business course in Portland, later on was a cruiser of timber lands for the Northern Pacific Railway for a number of years, making his home in Elma, later on engaged in the real estate and in- surance business, has been an Odd Fellow for many years, has served as Town and School Clerk of Elma for several terms and holds that position at the present time ; iMrs. Lestina Z. Eaton, born in Lafayette, Stark County, Illinois, November 26, 1852. was married to Nathan Eaton in 1872. He came across the plains in 1843, was a volunteer soldier in the Cayuse In- dian war of 1847-48 ; mined gold in 1849 in California, settled in Thurston County, twelve miles southeast of Olympia, built a sawmill there in 1853 — the first mill in Western Washing- PIONEER REMINISCENCES 359 ton away from the Sound — cleared up a large farm out of a wilderness said to be the best in the county in its day, ren- rendered efficient service to the Territory in the Yakima In- dian Avar of 1855-56, introduced the first mowing machines in the county in 1856, established a photograph gallery at his place in 1862, sold his place to Mr. Collins in 1882 and removed to Elma the same year and died in 1883. He was the father of four children. Mrs. Eaton died at Potlatch at the home of her daughter, Mrs. George Simpson, in December, 1906." PRIEST POINT PARK There is not a spot of greater romantic interest in all Thurston County than beautiful Priests' Point Park, with its lovely, winding paths and driveway, its noble trees, the bab- bling spring of deliciously cold water, and never ending ebb and flow of the sapphire waters of dear Puget Sound, coming and going over the sands of the bathing beach. Chechacos often, in admiring this playground of Olj^mpia, enquire how the park became possessed of such a picturesque name, so it was considered that a brief history of Priests' Point Park might well be included in this volume of Pioneer History. In July of the year 1847, before the American settler had arrived on Puget Sound, or, at least, on the section of the Sound now known as Thurston County, Rev. Pascal Ricard, with a party of nine Oblat missionaries, established St. Jo- seph's Mission, on the east side of Budd's Inlet, about a mile and a half north of Edmund Sylvester's claim. At that time the Squaxon Indians were living in numbers along the shores of the Sound below the Mission and, indeed, the point of land embraced in the Mission holdings was a general gathering place for the Western Washington Indians. The woods were full of big game, unfrightened by the sound of the hunters' firearms, wild berries grew in profusion in the more sparsely forested 360 THURSTON COUNTY spots, clams there were for the mere turning over of the sands of the beach at low tide, and along- the shining length and breadth of Puget Sound there was no more prolific fishing waters than those that washed the shores in front of the Mission. Here the good Fathers found a waiting field of labor. Schools and classes were organized among the natives, who took readily to the teachings of the priests. Land was cleared for vegetable and flower beds, fruit trees were planted, a building for a school room and for holding services was built and before long there were a considerable number of young Indian boj-s enrolled as students in the classes. It is a matter of history that the savage mind most readily grasps that religion that is presented them by symbols and pageantry. The black-robed Fathers, with their kindly words, ready sympathy and helpfulness won the confidence and re- spect of the Indians to such an extent that even in later times, when the white settlers were trembling and afraid for their lives from the Indian attacks, the priests of St. Josephs' Mis- sion lived in security and friendliness with the natives. So intimate were the relations between the priests and the Indians that the former were frequently enabled to give warning to the settlers of danger from contemplated raids of the Indians in time for them to flee to the safety of the stock- ade at Olympia. Several of the pioneers of the early 50 's can recall Father Blanchard, who was at that time at the head of the Mission, having taken Rev. Ricard's place when that Father moved on to establish other Catholic Missions. Father Blanchard and his associates had a school of about forty young Indians, who were taught the white man's ways, and to be- come good Catholics. The classes were held in the main building, which stood for many years after the mission was abandoned, on the ground now occupied for a private garden. Dark and gloomy were the rooms, with windows high up in the walls, so high that the light came through but dimly. The attention of the young students were not distracted by gazing out, and in the event of enmity arising between the priests and the Indians there was no opportunity for a bullet to find its mark by aiming through the window. The benches on which the students were seated were the work of their own hands, IvEOPOLD SCHMIDT whose Generosity Has Done Much for Priest Point Park PIONEER REMINISCENCES 361 under the training of the priests, and was the start of the manual training- classes or departments now so common in our schools. One pioneer woman, who as a young girl, lived on a hoihe- stead in the neighborhood, recalls visiting the Mission while school was in session and seeing the dusky young students por- ing over their lessons. This lady also tells about the natives' love for singing. The priests taught them the chants of their services to their great delight. Sometimes, she said, an In- dian would be picking berries back in the underbrush. He would begin to sing or chant, another voice would take up the refrain in another part of the woods and then another and another until the strain would reach the fishermen out on the waters, and the clam diggers along the beach, who would join their voices in swelling the volume of sound until the woods and shore would ring with the wild melody. As a means of raising funds, the Fathers had a number of their most promising Indian lads organized into a band with a drum and a fife as the principal instruments. Summer evenings this band would be marched up to the settlement and paraded along the streets, discoursing their music on the corners. The cap would then be passed and contributions were freely given the j^oungsters. The ladies of Olympia, in order to encourage the lads, made them caps of bright red cloth. These caps were the delight of the members of the band and were always worn when the boys came up to town. On one occasion the Father, who had special training of a class of Indian boys, marched them up to the public school for the purpose of giving an exhibition of their attainments. There were perhaps a dozen boys in the class, ranging from fifteen years down to a little fellow of only about three years of age. The boys had been carefully instructed to answer cer- tain questions which the priest put to them. For instance: "Who is President of the United States?" was asked the first lad. Parrotlike came the answer, "Abraham Lincoln," and so on down the line, each boy answering the question he had been taught. When the priest reached the little felloAV at the foot of the class, he said: "Where were you born, Rain-in-the- Face?" Without an instant's pause, the mite chirped: "I 362 THURSTON COUNTY was born in a canoe when my mother had gone to dig clams. Where, I know not." After the Indian war and the various tribes had been sent to the reservations, the Squaxons were put on the island down the Sound that now bears the name of that tribe, and the Fathers found their field of usefulness destroyed at the St. Joseph's Mission and it was abandoned, the land passing into possession of private holders. When the year 1893 arrived, the acres of this former mis- sion, which is now comprised in Priest Point Park, had been allowed to become delinquent or subject to county sale for the payment of unpaid taxes, and became public property through foreclosure. Theodore Brown, always loyal to his native city, conceived the idea of Olympia acquiring it for a park. He started the sentiment and agitation for city possession hy writing an ar- ticle which was published in the Olympia papers, which urged that steps for possession of the land be taken before private parties could get hold of it. By his writings and talking among his friends Mr. Brown worked up such a strong sentiment in favor of his pet project that a number of citizens went before the Board of County Commissioners to urge that board to defer selling the land un- til the city was in a position to buy it for a public park. Among these men were Theodore Brown, T. J. Kegley, Ellas Payne and others. They presented the case through At- torney P. ]\I. Troy, whom they secured as spokesman. Oppo- sition developed to the project, partly through political reasons and partly because a syndicate of speculators had organized and cast covetous eyes upon this beautiful tract. The Board of County Commissioners turned a deaf ear to the plea of the citizens and advertised the tract for sale, but before the sale could be consummated an election occurred and a new set of officials were elected. Among these officials was Mr. P. M. Troy, city attorney. Steps were immediately taken to block the advertised sale by instituting an action in the Federal Court to restrain the sale by representing that the city wished to acquire the land for a public park. Mr. Troy's efforts were successful and in May, of 1906, the city became PIONEER REMINISCENCES 363 possessors of the property. But the people of Olympia should remember that Theodore L. Brown was the first man who con- ceived the idea of obtaining the park and agitated the same until the city finally secured it. It may be truly said that Theodore L. Brown was the father of beautiful Priest Point Park. The man who has done more than any one other man for the park by his generous gifts has been the late Leopold Schmidt. It was through his munificence that the Swiss chalet which crowns the highest point in the park was placed there. This picturesque building was originally erected for the dis- play of the Olympia Brewery products at the Lewis and Clark Exposition in Portland, Oregon. At the closing of the expo- sition Mr. Schmidt presented the chalet to the city of Olym- pia and at his own expense had it brought from Portland and set up where it has since remained one of the most attrac- tive and convenient features of the park. When Mr. Schmidt's will was read a few days after his death it was found that he had added a bequest of $1,000 for the benefit of Priest Point Park. Leopold Schmidt was a native of Germany, coming to the United States when about twenty years of age. In America he led a varied and generally successful life, engaging in shipping on the Great Lakes for a couple of years. Later he learned the carpenters' trade and assisted in building the first Turnverin hall of the Turner Athletic Society in the United States. This was in Washington, Missouri, where the young man learned his trade. A few years later Mr. Schmidt went to Montana where he followed his trade in Butte and Deer Lodge for several years. In Butte he entered into a partnership with Daniel Gamer and helped form the partnership of Schmidt & Gamer, of the Centennial Brewery Company. He then went to Germany for the purpose of entering a brewers' school and while there met the lady who was to be his future wife, the marriage taking place before his return to America. Upon his return Mr. Schmidt Avas County Commissioner of Silver Bow County, Montana, and was final arbitrator in settling the conflict over the townsite of Butte, which was contested by several mining claims. He was a member of the Constitutional Convention 364 THURSTON COUNTY of Montana, as delegate from Silver Bow County. He was also iu the first State Legislatures from that county as a member of the House. Mr. Schmidt was a member of the Capitol Commission of Montana and came to Olympia in 1894 to inspect the Capitol foundation. At this visit he became interested in the possibilities of Tumwater water-power and decided to remove to this State. In the spring of 1896 Mr. Schmidt started w^ork on the brcAvery at Tumwater and by October of that year was turn- ing out the finished product. Since then he has established the Bellingham Brewery at that city and the Acme Brewery at San Francisco, and bought and remodeled the old brewery at Salem, Oregon, which later consolidated with the Albany Brewery Company. Mr. Schmidt, being of an intensely patriotic nature, liber- ally assisted any plan or movement for the public good, as was testified by his liberal bequest to Priests' Point Park. THE JUDICIARY OF THURSTON COUNTY. A chapter devoted to the men w^ho have figured in the legal history of Thurston County should be included in an authentic compilation of pioneer reminiscences, accordingly, the following list of Chief Justices of the Supreme Court, who re- ceived their appointments in territorial days, are given : E. Lander, 0. B. McFadden, C. C. Hewett, B. W. Dennison, Wm. L. Hill, Orange Jacobs, J. R. Lewis, Roger S. Green, Richard A. Jones. Of the Associate Justices there were : Vic- tor Monroe, P. A. Chenoweth, E. C. Fitzhugh, J. E. Wyche, C. B. Darwin, J. K. Kennedy, C. S. Wingard, J. P. Hoyt. George Turner, L. B. Nash, W. G. Langford, Frank Allyn. Later on came the Constitutional Convention, the names of the lawyer member of which it may not be inappropriate to mention in this connection : R. 0. Dunbar, M. M. Godman. Francis Henry, J. P. Hoyt, B. L. Sharpstein, R. F. Sturdevant, George Turner, Allen Weir. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 365 Of the brilliant g'allaxy of legal men who served the territory in the early days it is now impossible to give a sketch of every one, only individual reference can be given to a few of the earl- ier ones. Each was an indispensible unit of the foundation be- ing laid in his day of this great commonwealth. One of the most prominent of the earlier jurists was Judge 0. B. McFadden. A former friend of Judge ]\IcFadden's pays the following tribute to his memory. "Not every judge is an able practitioner and vice versa as was Judge McFadden. No doubt his reputation for strictest integrity was an important feature of his success with judges and jurors. Judge Mc- Fadden 's speech was distinguished by fluency and his de- nouncements of witnesses whom he suspected of perjury were scathing and effective. While he spent much of his time on his farm in Lewis County, Judge McFadden had a comfortable home in Oiympia, where he spent most of the winter months." Hon. C. C. Hewett was appointed third territorial chief justice by President Lincoln, who was a warm personal friend, and was distinguished by a high sense of justice, a plain, un- assuming manner and a Lincoln-like simplicity, which won for him the friendship and esteem of all who knew him. As an illustration of force of habit, the following good story is told of Judge Hewett, while conducting a case one day : The Chinook jargon was so much in use in early days that many of the most expressive phrases had become so common that they were frequently employed in every day speech. On this particular occasion, two attorneys clashed in animated dispute over one of the important points of the trial,, and in the heat of the moment, voiced some expressions in Chinook, not complimentary to each other. Judge Plewett, thinking to rebuke the wranglers for their disregard of de- corum, laid down the following rule : ' ' Gentlemen of the Bar, you will hereafter confine yourself to the English language. I don't purpose to permit any more of this cultus wawa in court." The judge himself joined in the laugh which followed. Elwood Evans was known throughout the territory as a man of high literary attainments, he having been a historian of note as well as one of the foremost jurists of his day. Judge Evans was one of the first attorneys to locate in Oiympia, where he resided for many years with his family. When Ta- 366 THURSTON COUNTY coma was on the boom, he went to live there and it was in tlif City of Destiny that death came to him. Among the conspicuous figures of the Pacific Coast was Seluc!us Garfielde. In physique, he was noticeable wherever he was seen, and his ability as a lawyer and statesman placed him among the prominent men of the Territory. Prob- ably the two campaigns when Garfielde was a candidate for the office of Delegate in Congress were the most exciting of any campaign of Territorial days, and after his election, while speaking on the floor of the House, his silvery tongued elo- quence was remarked and admired by his colleagues to sueli an extent that Garfielde became known as "The Eloquent ]\rember from the Pacific." While in Congress, Garfielde de- livered an address before the Y. M. C. A. on the ''Resources and Climate of the Northwest," which attracted so much at- tention that Jay Cook, then financial agent for the Northern Pacific Company, published it in several of the foreign lan- guages for distribution in Europe. Of the Judges of the Superi:)r Court of Thurston Comity .since Washington became a state, the following biographical sketches are given : JUDGE MASON IRWIN The first Judge of the Superior C(nirt of Thurston County was Mason Irwin, who was elected to that honor at the time the Territory of Washington was admitted as a State in 1889. At that time there were four counties in the district — Thurston. Chehalis, Lewis and Mason. Judge Irwin held court in all four of these counties, until the Legislature took Thurston out of the district and gave that county a separate Judge, J. W. Rob- inson, now of Seattle, being appointed by Lieutenant-Governor Lawton, who was acting Governor at the time. Governor E. P. Ferry was out of the State for some months on account of his health. Judge Irwin made his home in Lewis County, and has been Judge of the Superior Court there for several successive terms. His first wife was a daughter of Governor Newell, and among the Judge's pleasant remembrances are his official visits PIONEER REMINISCENCES 367 to the Capitol City to attend court. The first wife died in 1891 and several years later Judge Irwin remarried and his family noAV consists of his wife and six children. In referring to his early Olympia experiences, Judge IrAvin said : ''There is little to be said about my experiences on the bench in that county ; they were the usual experiences of a judge on the bench. They had an agreeable Bar there at that time, and I had many acquaintances in the city and made many acquaintances throughout the county, through the jurors coming in to attend court." MERRITT J. GORDON M. J. Gordon was the third Judge of Thurston CountA after Washington was admitted to statehood. Upon the resignation of Mr. Joe Robinson in the summer of 1892, Gov ernor E. P. Ferry appointed INIr. Gordon to fill the vacanc;\ thus occasioned. At the general election in November, 1892. Judge Gordoi was elected by the vote of the people for a four year term serving on the bench until January, 1895, when he resigned to go on the Supreme Bench of the State. This position ht held for the succeeding three years when he was made cor poration counsel for the Northern Pacific Company and re signed to move to Spokane where he made his home for several years. Judge Gordon is now senior member of the law firm oi Gordon and Easterday of Tacoma. He was born in Sherbrooke in the Province of Quebec March 17, 1859 ; began the practice of law in Dakota Territory in 1880, residing at Aberdeen; was district attorney of that district and city attorney of the city; president of the Bai Association of the Fifth Judicial District, and member of the first State Legislature of South Dakota ; came to Olympia Washington, in the spring of 1890. THOMAS MILBURNE REED, JR. Mr. T. M. Reed, fourth Judge of the Superior Court of the State of Washington, was born in Coloma. California, 368 THURSTON COUNTY about the year 1856, coming to Oiympia with his parents at an early age. When but 14 years of age, he had graduated from the University of California and from there spent five years taking the normal course at Princeton College. After graduation at the latter institution, Mr. Reed returned for a year to take a post-graduate course in the law department. He was a junior member of the law firm of Brown, Ten Eyke & Reed, in the early '80 's, this firm having offices in a building near the site of the old Episcopal Church, Avhere now stands the Mitchell Hotel. Later Reed moved to Seattle, where he was engaged in a successful law practice until the fire of 1889 destroyed his library and office furniture. In the year of 18S6 Mr. Reed was married to Miss Ida I\lcKenny and a few years later returned to Oiympia to make his home. He was appointed Judge of the Superior Court of Thurston County by the late Governor John ]McGrav\' upon the resigna- tion of J. W. Robinson from that position. At the expiration of his term of office Judge Reed and his family went to Nome, Alaska, to make their home. II<' is still practicing his profession of law in that place, enjoying an extensive practice. Judge Reed was appointed United States Commissioner for Alaska and has been City Attorney (/f Nome for several years. Judge and Mrs. Reed have two children, Irving ]\I. and Constance Elizabeth. CHARLES HENRY AVER Charles Henry Ayer was born in Saybrook, Connecticut, April 25, 1862. He studied in the public and private schools of the town, and completed the law course in Yale University. In 1884 he came to Oiympia, Washington, and entered the law office of J. C. McFadden. He later went in business for him- self and also formed several different partnerships, being asso- ciated for several years with the late T. N. Allen. He served one term as county attorney of Thurston County, and one term as mayor of Oiympia. In 1896 he was elected superior judge of Thurston County, and filled that office at the time of CHARLES AVER (Deceased.) JOHN R. MITCHEI.L (incumbent.) SUPERIOR JUDGES— PAST AND PRESENT PIONEER REMINISCENCES 369 his death March 9, 1898. In 1891 he married Miss Cora Ellis, who together with their five children, survives him. JUDGE BYRON MILLETT Judge Byron Millett was born in 1849. He came to Wis- consin when a child, with his parents and was educated at Ra- cine College. He was admitted to the practice of law in 1872. and located at Columbus, Nebraska. He was elected mayor of that thriving little city in 1876. In 1883 he moved to Colo- rado, and practiced law at Denver until 1889, then moved to Washington. Located at Olympia in the spring of 1890, where he has since resided. In the early part of 1898 he was ap- pointed Superior Judge of Thurston County by Governor pJohn R. Rogers, to fill the vacancy caused by the death of Judge Chas. H. Ayer. Since locating at Olympia, he has served as a member of the City Council of that city, also as Assistant State Law Librarian and as a member of the State Board of Law Examiners. OLIVER V. LINN The able attorney, Avho for six years occupied the position of judge of the districts comprised by Thurston and Mason Counties — Oliver V. Linn, came to Washington from his boy- hood home in Pennsylvania in the year 1889. After spending a short time on Grays Harbor, he removed to Olympia, where he made his home continuously until the time of his death in 1908. 0. V. Linn received his education at Wilmington, and was admitted to the bar shortly before coming to the West. LTpon his settling in Olympia he formed a law partnership with Joe M. Robinson, contiuing the successful practise of his profession until the year 1900, when he was elected Judge of the Superior Court on the Republican ticket. In 1906 he was re-elected, and in 1908 was an active candidate for nomination to the Supreme bench under the direct primary law. His death, how- ever, occurred in the fall of the same year, valvular heart trouble being the cause of his death. His Avife, ]\Iargaret, and one son, Donald, comprised liis immediate family. 870 THURSTON COUNTY Judge Linn was an honorable, genial man, loved by his many friends, and respected and honored by his legal associates. His widow, Margaret, died in December, 1913, at the Linn home, in Olympia. JOHN R. MITCHELL John E. Mitchell was born in Halifax County, Virginia January 31, 1861. From six to seventeen years of age he at tended private school. From 1878 to 1888 engaged in farm- ing and mercantile pursuits (mostly hunting) at his old home the last three years of which he read law under a practicing lawyer. Mr. Mitchell came to Olympia, Washington Territory April 28, 1888, and formed a partnership with M. A. Root at that time Probate Judge. He was admitted to the bar b\ the Superior Court (Mason Irwin, Judge) of Thurston County, on November 23, 1889. In 1890 the young man studied law at the University of Virginia. He dissolved partnership with M A. Root in January, 1893, upon his qualifying as Prosecuting Attorney. Mr. Mitchell was admitted to the bar by the Supreme Court, May 24, 1894. He was elected Prosecuting Attorney in 1896 and served 1897-9, and in January, 1901, formed a law partnership with Thos. M. Vance, Esq., which continued until Mitchell was chosen to the bench. Elected Judge of the Superior Court for Thurston and Mason Counties in 1908 for four years and re-elected without opposition, in 1912 — the position which he now occupies. In politics he is a democrat. J. R. Mitchell was married to Hallie Price, of Clarksville, Tenn., on April 22, 1891, while she was on a visit Avith rela- tives in Olympia ; to which union one child, Richard S., was born May 15, 1894; the son is now a student at the State University. CHARLES E. CLAYPOOL Charles Ethelbert Claypool, at present Judge of Depart ment 2 of the Superior Court for Thurston County, was born in Indiana in 1861. He came to Puget Sound in the late terri torial days, and was one of the prominent younger men in the PIONEER REMINISCENCES 3?1 days of early statehood. He was for many years with the Na tional Guard, and served on the personal staffs of the last Ter r.itorial and first State Governors, was State Senator from Pierce County in the second and third legislatures, Deput\ Prosecuting Attorney, and Assistant U. S. Attorney. For a long time he was the head of the law firm of Claypool, Gush man & Cushman, at Taeoma. He went to Alaska in 1900, re- signing his government post for that purpose, returning to make his home at Olympia several years ago. Judge Claypool served two years and a half as City Attorney of Olympia, re signing that office to accept an appointment to the bench b.y Governor Lister in 1913. He was opposed by three other as pirants at the late primary and did not receive the nomina tion. He married an Olympia girl, Miss Annie B. Cowles twentj^-four years ago, and they have two children, a son and a daughter. The family live in their own home at 1617 Syl vester Street. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 373 CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE Events as recorded successively by the "Columbian" (1852-3) ; "Washington Pioneer" (1853-4) ; "Pioneer & Demo- crat" (1854-1860); "Washington Standard" (1860-1873). 1852 September 11 — The Columbian, a weekly newspaper, com- menced publication. September 14— Nelson Barnes, Jr., was instantly killed, on Newaukum River, by falling of a tree. September 23— Brig James Marshall arrived at Olympia, thirty days from San Francisco. October 23 — Brig G. W. Kendall arrived, seventeen days from San Francisco. November 6 — A new coal mine was reported discovered on the Skookumchuck, by S. S. Ford. Jr. November 13 — A call for a meeting of citizens of North- ern Oregon was made, to discuss advisability of memorializ- ing Congress for Territorial division. November 13— M. T. Simmons, S. P. Moses, S. D. Ruddle, Adam Wylie, H. A. Goldsborough, Q. A. Brooks, Wm. Plumb and C. W. Hale were elected delegates to Monticello con- vention. November 13 — Brig G. W. Kendall sailed for San Fran- cisco with 6,700 feet sawed timber ; 5,000 feet hewed timber ; 10.000 shingles ; 100 barrels oil. November 13 — New saw mill reported in course of erec- tion on Nisqually River, seven miles from Steilaeoom. November 20 — Columbian announces removal of its of- fice to building near ]\Iain and First Streets, in building with postoffice and custom house, where the}'' "are entirely above high tide and have no use for canoe to navigate around our sanctum." November 27 — Authorities in Washington consent to es- 374 THURSTON COUNTY tablishment of a mail route from Olympia to Steilacoom, pro- viding a contract can be made for $140 annually. November 27. — Schooner Franklin sailed for San Fran- cisco with 300 barrels salmon, 8650 feet sawed lumber, 14 hogs. December 4 — Wm. Dowling opened Columbia Hotel on Second Street. December 4 — Announces death of infant son of Col. M. T. Simmons. December 11 — Brig June sailed for San Francisco with 800 feet piles, 200 barrels salmon, 140,000 shingles, 30 cords wood. December 11 — Columbian announces fourth week of go- ing to press without eastern mail. December 18 — Every house between Cowlitz and Olympia crowded with emigrant families. 1853 January 1 — Edmund Sylvester donated two lots to Ma- sonic fraternity. January 1 — Columbian announces unconfirmed rumor that President Pierce has been elected President. January 1 — Also that Oregon Territorial Legislature has been in session three weeks, but no authentic information has been received at Olympia '^,f its proceedings. January 1 — Rev. Beaj. Close assigned by Methodist Church to Northern Oregon, takes up residence in Olympia. January 1 — A. W. Moore opens public school. January 8 — Bark Sarah Warren arrived at Olympia with $15,000 worth of merchandise. She was twenty-three days on way from San Francisco and brought two passengers, Capt. S. W. Percival and wife. January 22 — Dr. D. S. Ma3^lard of Seattle, married to Mrs. Catherin Broshears, of Thurston County. February 26 — Died at Allen's point, six miles below Olympia, Berg. F., infant son of Isaac Dofflemyer. March 19^ — A tiger Avas caught, weighing over 200 pounds, by the "boys" on Mr. Bush's farm, six miles from Olympia. March 19 — Wright, Coulter & Co., opened a general mer- chandise store. iMarch 19 — Large quantities of coal are being hauled from PIONEER REMINISCENCES 375 Skookumchuck coal fields for shipment to San Francisco. ]\Iarcli 19. — J. W. Wiley sold his interest in the Colum- bian to J. J. Beebe. March 19 — Olympia enjoys first theatrical performance. General Jack Rag, celebrated actor and vocalist, gave a grand entertainment at Olympia House. Tickets 25 cents ; children and "niggers" free. Tickets sold at the bar. March 26 — Several new buildings erected. Catholic Church completed. March 26— J. R. Johnson, M. D., announces opening of a hospital at his point, fifteen miles below Olympia. April 9 — A bed of oysters discovered, four or five acres in extent, on South Bay. April 9 — Wm. Dowling, proprietor Columbia house, died. April 9 — U. S. District Court opened in Thurston County, Judge Strong presiding. April 16 — Brig Kingsbury sailed for San Francisco with 250 piles, 20,000 feet sawed lumber, 30 cords wood. April 16 — Methodist Church erected. April 23 — Thirty families en route to Thurston County, reported between Olympia and the Cowlitz. April 23 — One hundred guns fired by Olympia light ar- tillery in honor of the new Territory, Washington, first estab- lished by act of Congress. May 7 — First drayage business established in Olympia by Post Master A. W. Moore. May 21 — Conrad Snyder establishes a brickyard in Olympia. May 28 — General merchandise firm of Wright, Coulter & Co., dissolved, and establishment continued under name Parker, Coulter & Co., John G. Parker being new member. June 4 — John Edgar, Whitfield Kirtley, E. J. Allen and Geo. Shazer leave for east of the mountains to confer relative to a road to Walla Walla. June 4 — Married, Jesse Furgeson to Margaret J. Rut- ledge, all of Thurston County. July 9 — J. Patton Anderson, first U. S. Marshal, arrives, and prepares to take census. July 9 — Account of celebration of Fourth of July by salute at sunrise and usual patriotic program. At a meeting 376 THURSTON COUNTY at the Methodist Church toasts were proposed and responded to by prominent citizens. Lieut. Kautz, U. S. A., responded to "Army and Navy," and offered "The citizens of Olympia — may the}- always have high tides, so that, like clams, they may be ever happy." July 9 — Died. Eebecca V. Chambers, wife of Andrew J. Chambers, aged nineteen years. July 16 — Great demand for labor. One hundred laborers called for at good wages. July 23 — D. C. Beatty commenced manufacture of furni- ture in Olympia. July 30 — ]\Iarried. at Scatter Creek, Thurston County, on the 26th inst., by Vv^m. Plumb, Samuel Coulter to Harriet E. Tilley. July 30 — Public meeting to discuss plans for betterment of mail service. August 13 — Olympia markets destitute of flour. August 13 — Married. James T. Philips to Junetta Grogan, nil of Thurston Count}'. August 13 — Died, James II. Yantis, seventeen years of age. Also John M. Monroe, aged twenty-three years. September 17 — T. F. McElroy disposes of the Columbian to Mat. K. Smith. September 10 — List of 161 letters published, remaining uncalled in postoffice. If not called for within three months will be sent to Washington, D. C. October 8 — Chief Justice Lander, Secretary Mason and U. S. Attorney Clendenin arrive in Olympia. Reported that Gov- ernor Stevens had arrived in White River valley en route to Olympia. November 12 — Married, in Washington County, Oregon, Wm. Billings, of Olympia, to Mary Angeline Miller. Also at Olympia, Benj. Gordon to Julia Ann IMcCullough, all of this county. November 19 — Died, on Chambers' Prairie. Eliza Jane Hicks, aged twenty-one years. November 26 — Census completed. Thurston County re- turns 996, Pierce 513, the Territory 3965. December 3 — The Columbian becomes the "Washington Pioneer," J. W. Wiley, publisher. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 377 Died, at Olympia, Nov. 21, of consumption, Mrs. Sarah Cornell, aged twenty-four years, December 10 — -A. M. Berry associated with J. W. Wiley in publication of Washington Pioneer. December 2-4 — Capt. McClellan, Lieut. Donalson, Lieut. Duncan, Messrs. Winter, Moffitt, Bixby, Giddings,- and Suck- ley, all attached to Gov. Stevens' exploration party, arrive in Olympia. 1854 January 21 — Governor Stevens contracts for several build- ings to be built on Main Street, Olympia, for public offices and headquarters for Northern Railway exploring party. ^Married, A. J. Moses to Miss Sarah J. Head, both of Olympia. Married, at New Market, A. B. Rabbeson to Miss Lucy Barnes. ]\larried, Andrew J. Chambers to Margaret White, February -l — Pioneer and Democrat announces "six weeks without a mail from the East, and three without one even from Oregon." February 25 — Seal of the Territory designed by a member of the Northern Railway exploring, offered for adoption. (This design was afterward adopted. It represented a sheet of water being traversed by a steamer and sailing vessel, with a Goddess of Hope, with an anchor, pointing to the Chinook word "Alki"). At the election just held in the Territory — ^the first — Thurston County cast 171 votes more than any other county. Married, S. Nelson AVoodruff to Samantha Packwood, eldest daughter of Wm. Packwood. Announces dedication of the Methodist Church, which took place March 19, Rev. J. F. DeVore, pastor. February 25 — First Territorial Legislature meets (Mon- day, Feb. 27) . March 25 — Victor ]Monroe delivers an address advocating prohibition, April 8 — First Legislative ball given, under supervision of Wm. Cock, of the Pacific Hotel, where the event took place. April 15 — A. J. and N. P. Miller commence erection of a 378 THURSTON COUNTY steam s^w mill at North Olympia, two miles below town, ''the largest lumbering establishment on the Sound." April 29 — Married, by Chief Justice Lander, John G. Parker to Jerusha Hays. Died, Mrs. Angeline White, wife of John M. White. May 13 — Bernard Cornelius, graduate of Trinity College, Dublin, establishes a classical, mathematical, commercial and training school in Olympia. Married, G. W. Allen to Hester Packwood, daughter of Wm. Packwood. May 20 — Bishop Scott and Rev. D. McCarthy announce first Episcopal Church meeting for Sunday, 28th inst. May 27— Married, C. G. Saylor to Matilda J. Sargent. Died, Geo. W. Guthrie, on Chambers' Prairie. June 10 — Postoffice established on Ground Mound, L. D. Durgin, postmaster. July 1 — The first Sunday school opened in Olympia under superintendence of Rev. G. F. Whitworth, in the Hall of Repre- sentatives. May 13 — Announces drowning of G. N. jMcConaha and Capt. Barstow, which occurred May 4th, while making pas- sage in a canoe between Vashon Island and Alki. ]Mr. Mc- Conaha was returning home from Olympia, where he has pre- sided as President of the first Legislative Council. July 8 — Henry Cock, Dr. Kanby and Judge Roundtree start for Yakima to x^i'ospect for gold. Reported that $3 to $5 per day to the hand has been obtained. July 15 — Firm of Bettman & Brand dissolve. Mr. Bett- man was third one to open business in Olympia, and now be- comes associated with his brother in same. August 5 — Commence pile driving for a dock to deep water. August 19 — First class in vocal music organized, under Mrs. M. A. Hamm, who "as a teacher of sacred music has few superiors living." Messrs. Ensign, Blankenship and Kirtley return from a prospecting tour in Cascade JMountains. Convinced gold ex- ists there but doubt its presence in paying quantities. They reported favorable progress on the immigrant road over the mountains. PIONEER REMINISCENCES a79 September 2 — Tiimwater flouring mill commences opera- tion, under management of Ward & Hays. Silas Gallagher arrives, being first accession to the popu- lation of Olympia from the Atlantic states that summer. September 16 — Messrs. Giddings and Seration arrive at Olympia, four days from San Francisco, breaking record for time to that date. Death of A. M. Berry, senior proprietor of the Pioneer and Democrat announced. He died in New Hampshire of smallpox. He had gone East to make contract for printing the laws and journals for the Territory. October 15 — Contract let for bridge across bay to eastside. Edmund Sylvester returns from East, where he went to be married, accompanied by Mrs. T. F. McElroy and Mrs. A. J. Baldwin, a sister of Mrs. Sylvester. October 21 — ^Married, Francis Marion Rhodes and ^lary Ann jMounts, all of Thurston County. Died, Miss Jane Thomson. December 9 — Second Legislative Assembly convened (Dec. 4). at old Masonic Temple. 1855 February 3 — Legislature adjourned, after locating capital at Olympia, penitentiary at Fort Vancouver, and University at Seattle, with a branch on Boisfort Plains, Lewis County. Married, Urban E. Hicks, County Auditor, to India Ann Hartsock. February 24 — iMarried, by Edward Lander, Henry Rader, of Bellingham, to Miss Elizabeth Austin. Drowned, crossing Skookumchuck, George Watson Stevens. He was a kinsman and private secretary to Gov. Stevens. March 24 — ]Major Tilton, Survej'or-General. arrived at Olympia. J. Patton Anderson resigned as U. S. i\Iarshal. April 21 — On Gravelly Prairie, by Rev. G. F. Whitworth, A. Benton Moses to Sarah Jane, daughter of B. F. Yantis. Married, Geo. W. Corliss to Lucretia R. Judson. ]May 12 — Democratic Territorial convention met in Olj^m- pia and nominated J. Patton Anderson for Congress. 380 THURSTON COUNTY Wm. Hicks committed suicide by drowning in the bay just below town. The first recorded act of self destruction. Insanity, caused by too close application to study of spirit rapping. May 26— W. W. Miller appointed Clerk of the District Court for the Second District. June 13 — Married, Jas. K. Hurd to Eliza A. Woodward. Died, Rachel Henrietta, wife of John D. Biles, near Vancouver. August 17- — Meeting held at Washington Hotel to fix standard value of various silver coins in circulation. October 5 — Married, Butler P. Anderson to lone Head. October 12 — Married, Joseph Bunting to Miss M. A. E. McAllister. Died, Nathaniel Alden. son of Wm. and IMary Angeline Billings. Also Mary Angeline Billings, wife of Wm. Billings, twenty-six years of age. October 19 — Call by Acting Governor for two companies of mounted volunteers. October 26 — John G. Parker placed Steamer Traveler on route between Olympia and Seattle. Married, A. J. Baldwin to Miss Mary Pattle. November 9 — The Pioneer and Democrat announces as reason for having missed an issue of the paper that "the hands in the office were either acting as volunteers or were engaged in the work of fortifying Olympia." Also announces death of James McAllister, A. Benton I\Ioses and Joseph Miles, killed by the Indians. Married, J. C. Patton to Mary E. Weed, all of Olympia. Companies of volunteers for service in the Indian war or- ganized at Olympia, Chambers' and Grand Mound Prairies. Third session of the Legislative Assembly meets in Olympia. Married, Wm. Baffleck to Miss Elizabeth Simmons. 1856 January 4 — Married, by Rev. G. F. Whitworth, Elwood Evans to Miss Elzira Z. Gore. January 25 — Governor Stevens returned from the National Capitol and is given a hearty reception. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 381 February 8 — First company of volunteers raised in Thurs- ton County under call of Gov. Stevens. Also a company of IMounted Rangers. April 4— A detachment of twenty men were sent by Gov. Stevens to apprehend Indians who had raided Yelm Prairie and driven off and killed a large number of head of stock belonging to Messrs. Brail, Longmire and Chambers. July 4 — -On account of the Indian troubles the National holiday was not celebrated. A picnic was held down the bay, on the return from which the revenue cutter. Jeft' Davis, ac- companied the Steamer Traveler, firing a salute. July 18 — Married, Chas. C. Ferry to Mary J. Eussell. July 25 — IMarried, by Rev. DeVore, Thomas Rutledge to Miss M. L. Shotwell. September 5 — T. W. Glascow introduced the first thresh- ing machine in Thurston County and advertised it for use. September 19 — Died, at Olympia, on the 15th inst., Victor Monroe, Associate Justice of the United States Court. He was a native of Kentucky and was aged about forty years. September 26 — Married, John French to Miss Rebecca Littlejohn. Also, James Mix to Mary Littlejohn. At Miami Prairie, James Laws to Hester Bryan, all of Thurston County. December 12 — Fourth Legislative Assembly convened on the 4th inst. Married, Joseph Gibson to Narcissa Jane Henness, both of Thurston County. December 19 — Married, Wm. Martin to Ann E. Yantis. By Rev. G. F. Whitworth, Daniel C. Beatty to Mary Jane Thomson. 1857 January 2 — Married, Louis D. Barnard to Mary A. Parsons. James Redpath to P. Catharine Ostrander, daughter of Dr. X. Ostrander, occurring December 9. January 23 — Reception by Gov. Stevens and wife, at their new residence on Capital Hill, attended by citizens of Olympia 382 THURSTON COUNTY and vicinity, the members of the Legislature and officers of the U. S. S. Massachusetts. March 27 — W. R. Stockend. a farm hand on Tenalquot Prairie, killed a panther, six feet, seven inches long, in a fair fist and boot fight. The elaborated account in the Pioneer and Democrat proves that likely candidates died before the Ananias Club was organized. May 29 — ^" Colored" Republican convention met in Olym- pia and nominated a candidate for Delegate to Congress, after adopting a platform affirming that "James Buchanan, as well as the Supreme Court, should be abolished as a great humbug and that a white man was a good as a negro when behaving." May 29— At Swanville, by Rev. G. ¥. Whitworth, Maj. G. C. Blankenship to Mrs. Sarah Jane Moses, married. June 26 — In San Francisco, Isaac Lightner. an Olympia business man, to Miss Dorothea Leseritz. July 17 — B. F. Brown, two miles below town, on the west- side, commenced the erection of a wharf to deep water at that point. September 11 — Gov. Fayette McMullen arrived and took oath of office. ^Married, William Wright to Sarah Ellen Littlejohn. Contract for carrying mail from San Francisco to Olym- pia, let to Pacific Mail S. S. Co. Died, G. B. Goudy, former publisher of the Pioneer and Democrat, aged twenty-nine years. Also Jas. K. Hurd, from injuries received from attack of a wild ox. Married, Edward Huggins to Elititia Work, sister-in-law of Dr. Tolmie. December 4 — Fifth Legislative session met (8th inst.). 1858 January 29 — Meeting held in Olympia to protest against fhe failure of the Pierce County authorities to hang the In- dian murderer Leschi, under sentence of death. February 19— Married, by Rev. G. F. Whitworth. Jared S. Hurd to Anne M. Cock. Wm. L. Mitchell, Deputy Sheriff of Thurston Countv, PIONEER REMINISCENCES 383 Tinder order from the Supreme Court, proceeded to Steilaeoom and on the same day hung Leschi. March 19 — Married, David L. Phillips to Sophia Ellen Suttlemeirs. July 2 — Died, Mrs. Sarah Thomson, aged eighty-two years. The mother of Rev. Geo. F. Whitworth. July 16— Married, by Rev. G. F. Whitworth, Fayette Mc- Mullen, Governor of Washington Territory, to Mary Wood, of Olympia. September 10 — Married, Rufus Willard to Sarah J. Fletchei'. October 15 — ^Died, Margaret, wife of William Rutledge, aged sixty-six years. December 17 — Married, Wm. G. Dunlap to Carrie Cock. December 31 — Grand Lodge of Masons for Washington Territory organized at Olympia. 1859 January 7 — -Meeting held in Olympia to organize a Grand Division of the Sons of Temperance. February 11 — Married, James R. Wood to Mrs. M. B. Pullen. Died, Fanny Belle, only daughter of Major James and Isabella Tilton. April 8 — First earthquake experienced in Thurston County, occurred on the 2nd inst. April 15 — Married, by Chief Justice McFadden, William Mitchell to Martha Johns (13th inst.). July 8 — Married, Henry Cock to Maria D. Hall. July 22 — Isaac Wood erected a brewery at Fifth and Co- lumbia Streets. Chas. H. Mason, Secretary of the Territory, died at age of twenty-nine. October 21 — Fourth Street, from its junction with Main, planked. Stumps removed from Main above Fourth. November 25 — Died, Mollie, daughter of Selueius and S. E. Garfielde. On Mound Prairie, J. W. Goodell. December 9 — Died, Mary F. Reed, daughter of T. M. and E. H. Reed. 384 THURSTON COUNTY Seventh Legislative session convened. December 23 — Married, A. B. Gore to Mrs. Vestatia J, M. Hyde. Dan W. Lowell to Ellen Willard. 1860 January 13 — Alert Hook and Ladder Company organized. The first organization of the kind in Olympia. March 23— Married, M. R. Tilley to Miss R. A. Leonard. March 30 — Died, J. W. Wiley, forty years of age. He was for several years connected with the Pioneer and Democrat. August 10 — Married, Nathaniel Crosby to Cordelia Smith. August 17 — Severe electric storm during which three trees were struck within city limits. Oregon api^les were on the market at twenty-five cents per pound. August 24 — Contract let for clearing the capitol grounds. j\luch local criticism of the Territorial Capital Commission for not proceeding to build with $30,000 appropriated by Federal Government. September 14 — Census just completed shows total popu- lation for Thurston County of 1504; value of property, $1,529,700. Eighth Legislative Assembly convenes and on December 11 passes bill removing capital to Vancouver, and the peni- tentiary from Vancouver to Port Townsend. December 28 — Mount Baker in state of eruption, "throw- ing off clouds of smoke and steam." 1861 January 4 — Married, Chas. Eagan to Kate Wood. Also John Chapman to Sarah E. Dofiilemeyer. January 25 — Died, Mary Rutledge, wife of Wm. Rut- ledge, Sr. February 15 — Married, E. N. Sargeut to Lucinda Mounts. March 8 — Messrs. DeLacy, Blankenship and Paekwood start on trip to explore Nisqually pass, south of Mt. Rainier, March 15 — Having been discovered that the bill remov- ing capital to Vancouver is defective, having no enacting PIONEER REMINISCENCES 385 clause, an editorial battle is commenced between the Pioneer and Democrat, and Vancouver Chronicle. April 10 — ^larried, Aaron Webster to Miss Yantis. April 26 — Married, John M. Murphy to Eliza J. McGuire, of Portland. May 17 — Acting Governor McGill calls for organization of state militia. JNIay 24 — Married, Isaac Ellis to Martha A. Connor. New administration for Washington Territory announced as follows : Governor, W. H. Wallace ; Chief Justice, C. C. Hewitt; Receiver of the Land Office, Jos. Cushman; Register, A. A. Denny; Secretary, L. J. Turney; Attorney, J. J. Mc- Gilvra; Associate Justice, J. E. Wych. September 14 — Married, Jos. H. Kellett to Rebecca D. Sargent. September 21 — Married, Peterfield Turpin to Eunice M. Harned. October 5 — Chief Justice Hewitt declares law removing capital from Olympia to Vancouver null and void. December 7 — Ninth Legislative session convened. 1862 iMarch 29^C. H. Hale confirmed as Superintendent of Li- dian Affairs. May 3 — Steamer Eliza Anderson takes up run from Olym- pia to Cariboe mines. June 21 — Died, at Olympia, W. G. Dunlap. September 20 — A theatrical company, presenting "Lu- cretia Borgia," "Lady of Lyons," "David Copperfield," "The Brigands," etc., appeared for one week in Olympia. Married, Henry C. Hale to Fannie E. Knox. October 11— Five hundred and twenty-one dollars sub- scribed by citizens of Thurston County for relief of federal soldiers, and grand ball projected to raise funds for like purpose. October 18 — Meeting called to take measures for show- ing proper respect to memory of Isaac I. Stevens. 1863 January 10 — B. F. Kendall, editor of the Overland Press, 386 THURSTON COUNTY died on 7th inst., from effect of a pistol shot fired by Horace Howe. Kendall was thirty-four years of age and a graduate of Bowdoin College. June 20— Died, at Walla Walla, May 31st, wife of Wm. Cock, aged forty-nine years. June 27 — Died, Rev. Richard J. Evans, aged twenty-eight years. At the time of his death j\Ir. Evans was pastor of the Presbyterian Church, from March 13, 1860, to time of his death. July 11 — Married, McLain Chambers to Esther Packwood. July 25 — Died, at Victoria, July 18th, G. Warbass, of Olympia. August 1 — Mount Baker reported in state of eruption. September 26 — Married. D. B. Ward to Belle Byles. October 3 — Died, Levi Offutt, aged forty-five years. November 14 — Married. T. J. Axtell to Eliza M. Brown. Bride dressed in red. white and blue. November 28 — Born, to the wife of Robt. Frost, a daugh- ter (24th inst.). Also to the wife of A. B. Young, a son. December 26 — At Tumwater (Dec. 23), Clanrick Crosby, Jr., to Martha B. Ward. 1864 February 27— Married, W. H. Ruddell to Helen Z. Himes, on the 21st inst. April 16 — Died (April 10), Geo. N. Scott, aged twenty- four years. July 9 — At Tumwater (July 3) Geo. W. Biles to Louise Crosby. October 1 — Married, Geo. W. Simmons to Virginia H. Cal- houn; also Christopher C. Simmons to Amantha Kennedy. December 24 — Married, Stephen L. Ruddell to Amanda J Packwood. 1865 March 4 — Married, James Scott to Electra Rutledge. July 1 — Died, Mary Frances, daughter of Levi and Chris- tiana Shelton, aged nineteen years. July 29 — Schuyler Colfax addressed the people of Olympia. August 19 — News of the loss of the Brother Jonathan PIONEER REMINISCENCES 387 reached Olympia, Dr. A. G. Henry, Surveyor-General of the Territory, was lost on this steamer. Married, A. J. Burr of Olympia to Mrs. M. Woodrutf, of Tumwater. September 30 — Committee appointed to receive and pro- vide for women arriving on Continental from New England. 1866 January 6 — Married, John Shelton to Angeline Ford. Also, Wm. P. Wright to Maria L. Willard. February 3 — Died, at the age of sixty, Samuel James. March 17 — New flouring mill erected by C. Crosby, at Tumwater, is completed. March 31 — Columbia Engine Company No. 1, is organized. April 7 — Married, Dudlej' Barnes to Harriet L. Eastman. April 14 — Married, Columbus White to May Clark. May 19 — Died, at Tumwater, Mary Crosby, aged fifty- eight years, relict of late Capt. Nathaniel Crosby, a pioneer of the county. July 21 — The Pixley family gave their first performance in Olympia. Annie Pixley, at this time fourteen years of age, gained a national reputation as an actress. Her mother, at this time, opened a millinery shop on Washington Street, be- tween Third and Fourth. August 4 — Died, near Tumwater, John Scate, aged sev- enty-six years. September 8 — Married, at Victoria. Jacob Waldrick to Lueretia Eaton, all of Thurston County. November 17 — U. S. C. S. Brig Fauntleroy, Captain Law- son, and J. J. Gilbert, arrive to survey coast of upper Sound. December 22 — ]\Iarried, James Brewer to Mary E. Byrd. Died, G. K. Willard, fifty-eight years of age. 1867 January 12 — Gov. Cole arrived in Olympia and succeeded Gov. Pickering. January 19 — Died, W. H. Waterman, Superintendent of Indian Affairs, aged fifty-eight years. Also, Christiana, wife of Levi Shelton, fifty-one years of age. 388 THURSTON COUNTY January 26 — Married, at IMontesano, John R. James to Mary C. Scammons. February 23 — Died, B. S. Cornell, in his sixty-ninth year. March 2— Married, B. F. Ruth to Mrs. Vail, all of Thurs- ton County. May 4 — Died, at Turawater, Ebenger Eastman, forty-five years old. June 29 — ]\Iarried, J. D. Spirlock to Cordelia Rickard. July 27 — Married, Thos. M. Reed to Eliza C. Giddings (21st inst.). November 23 — Married, Amos Brown to Annie M. Peebles. November 23 — The first circus to appear in Olympia, per- formed on the southwest corner of Main and Fourth Streets. Died, Col. M. T. Simmons (on the 15th inst.). Col. Sim- mons was one of the original settlers in Thurston County. 1868 July 18 — Died. Mrs. Gabriel Jones. She was seventy years of age and came West in 1844. October 3 — The Echo, a weekly paper, organ of the I. 0. G. T., commences publication. October 10 — Married, Park Winans of Walla Walla, to Lida Moore, of Olympia (on the 6th inst.). November 21 — Married, on the 15th inst., Thos. M. Cham- bers to Annie E. S. Grainger. Died, on the 14th inst., ]Mary A., wife of Wm. Billings, aged twenty-seven. 1869 January 2 — Married, Frederick Prosch to Helen M. Elder. At the same time and place, H. M. Elder to Miss C. A. Ruddle. January 9 — Capt. D. B. Finch presents to Olympia Lodge of Good Templars, the Olympic building, southwest corner Fourth and Columbia Streets, on condition that the lodge maintain a free reading room. I. Lightner and G. Rosenthal, pioneer merchants, form a partnership. January 16 — Died, R. W. IMoxlie, a pioneer, for whom Moxlie Creek was named. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 389 March 13 — Died, on Mound Prairie, Rev. Chas. Biles, a pioneer of 1853. April 3 — Two velocipedes appear upon the streets of Olympia. One a two-wheel affair and the other a three-wheel, the latter of home construction. April 17 — Died, Isaac Wood, a pioneer of 1851. ]\Ir. Wood was the first brewer in Thurston County, his brewery being located at Fourth and Columbia Streets. The ■Marsh ville (Westside) bridge, is completed. July 10— Died, James A. Watson. He had been connected with the press of the Sound since 1861. George Francis Train lectured in Olympia. July 17 — Tumwater bridge completed. July 24 — Secretary of State William H. Seward addressed the people of Olympia. August 7 — Married. (Aug. 3), Albert A. Phillips to Miss Nellie Gillispie, of Whidby Island. September 18 — Married, David Longmier to Elizabeth Pollard. November 20 — Town hall dedicated with dance, Friday evening, Nov. 26. (This hall was destroyed by fire, June 4. 1914). November 27 — JMarried, W. W. Miller to Mary M. IMc- Fadden, in Lewis County. December 25 — G. A. Barnes commenced the erection of the first brick building, which still stands on ]\Iain Street. between Third and Fourth. In this building the first bank in the Territory was started. 1870 February 27 — Marshall F. Moore, Governor of the Terri- tory, dies at Olympia. June 25 — Married, J. B. Biles to Julia Burkett. August 13 — First installment of Gov. Salomon's immigra- tion arrive. It comprised forty families of over 100 persons. August 27 — Gen. Hazard Stevens and P. B. Van Trump return after making first ascent made of Mount Rainier, al- though Captain F. W. Ferrell claimed to have ascended it in October 1847, in company with John Edgar, and a French- man and Indian, names unknown. 390 THURSTON COUNTY September 17 — Census completed. Olympia 1203 ; Thiirs- tou County 2246. October 15 — Olj^mpia infested with band of incendiaries, and a vigilance committee is organized. October 22 — Married, C. M. Bradshaw to Florence Holmes. December 4 — Died, Mrs. C. H. Hale, aged 52 years. 1871 January 21 — An association of Pioneers formed. All citi- zens eligible whose residence date back to 1860. May 20— Died, Mrs. L. D. Durgin. Also, Eliza C, wife of T. M. Reed. November 18 — Woman's Suffrage Association for Thurs- ton County formed. December 30 — Puget Sound Courier commenced publica- tion as political organ of the Federal office holders. Olympia receives formal notice of acceptance by Northern Pacific Railroad of land subsidy and location of termini at OJympia. 1872 January 20 — Died, John Law, aged seventy-four (Nov. V2, 1871), an emigrant of 1852. January 27 — First Unitarian Sunday school organized. February 3 — Married. J. W. Brazee to Minnie Biles. i\Iarch 2 — Died, Jos. Cushman, an early pioneer. May 18— Married (^May 12th) J. J. Gilbert to Fannie A. Yantis. June 22 — I\Iarried, L. P. Venen to Emma Clark. Died, on Bush Prairie. Tallitha Kindred. August 17— Married, C. II. Hale to Mrs. P. C. Case. Charles Vivian, father of the Order of Elks, made his first appearance in Olympia. September 21 — Piers laid for building now Recorder office. October 26 — Public reception tendered Judge McFadden on his return home during his campaign for Congress. November 2 — Married, W. E. Boone to Mercie Slocum (Oct. 30). November 9 — Married (Nov. 6) Wm. Billings to Jeanette M. Ballentine. PIONEER REMINISCENCES 391 Died, H. R. Woodard, a pioneer of 1852. Judge McFadden's election to Congress is celebrated by his townsmen in Olympia. Olympia experienced the hardest earthquake that has ever occurred here. November 30 — ^Married, J. ]M. Lammon to Mary Hallett. December 21 — Married. Nathan Eaton to Lestina Himes. i92 THURSTON COUNTY EARLY FRATERNAL ORGANIZATIONS. The first lodge of Free and Accepted Masons to be in- stituted north of the Columbia River was organized in Olympia, December 11, 1852. The names of the petitioners were: Thorn- ton F. McElroy, James W. Wiley, i\Iichael T. Simmons, Nicholis Delin, Smith Hays, Ira Ward and A. K. Skidmore, under dis- pensation granted by M. N. Berry man Jennings, Grand Master of the Grand Lodge of the Territory of Oregon and was known as No. 5, under the Oregon jurisdiction. This lodge exists today under title of Olympia Lodge No. 1, under juris- diction of the Grand Lodge of Washington. The first meeting of this organization was held Saturday evening, Dec. 11, 1852. The lodge was opened with T. F. Mc- Elroy as Worshipful ]Master ; J. W. Wiley, Senior Warden and M. T. Simmons, Junior Warden. The second meeting of the Lodge was held December 18. 1852. At this meeting a petition for the degrees was received for the degrees from B. F. Yantis, one of the earliest and most respected pioneers of the Territory. At a subsequnt meeting. B. F. Yantis was the first to receive the three degrees in this lodge. B. F. Shaw, of Vancouver, having received the pre- ceding degrees, received the Master Mason's degree the same evening as ]Mr. Yantis. Olympia Lodge was chartered by the Grand Lodge of Oregon, June 15, 1853 and was numbered 5. Upon the organ- ization of the Grand Lodge of Washington, December 8, 1858, Olympia Lodge became No. 1 under the new jurisdiction. Another pioneer fraternal societv is Olvmpia Lodge No. 1, 1. 0. 0. F. This lodge was organized under a charter dated April 10. 1855, by the Supreme Lodge I. 0. 0. F. of the United States The following were named on the charter list : C. C. Hewitt, J. L. Head, James C. Head, Daniel Kiser, Cyril Ward. DEDICATION It would, perhaps, have been more appropriate to havfe dedicated this little volume to the brave and sturdy Thurston County Pioneers, whose life stories I have striven to set forth in their own language wherever possible, and such, indeed, wa^ my intention at the beginning of this work, but as time went on and I grew to realize the trials, hardships and privations which were the lot of the women who crossed the Old Oregon Trail in the middle of the last century, I became more and more impressed with the magnificent courage displayed h} one who has ever been the guiding star of my life. Surelj making this arduous trip not once, but three times, entitles her to an honorable place among the pioneers of whatevei section. She started from a home of comparative wealth and ease in Minnesota while still in the freshness of her youth with hei husband and two small children, of whom the writer was the youngest, arriving in Sacramento, California, after six months hard travelling, during which time the family never slept un der a roof other than the canvas wagon cover, and endured all hardships with an unparalled cheerfulness and fortitude ever striving to assist and encourage her husband and to trail, her children in the right way. Many an evening the writei can recall being tucked into her little bed in the wagon box by those kind hands and sinking off to sleep, lulled by the monotonous sound of the horses crunching their grain from the long feed box on the ground beside the prairie schooner. The stay in California was short, barely long enough foi the family to recover from the fatigue of the long journey and for this modern Cornelia to adei one other gem to hei jewel casket, then, becoming satisfied that all the shining gold of which this young couple had dreameel, had alreaely beer picked up out of the streets by earlier pioneers, they decided to retrace their journey as far as the Grande Rounde Valley, in Oregon. Here, although the loose gold had also been al- ready gathered in, there were plenty of opportunities for gain- ing a competence for the thrifty and indnstrions, virtne.s which tliese people certainlj' possessed. Within a few years prosperity had shed its golden gloAV over the adventurers to such a degree that they decided they had acquired enough to give them a comfortable start in their old home as they were homesick and possessed of an over- whelming longing to see once again the friends of their youth Bundling the children into the wagons in which the first start was made, the long trip back to IMinnesota was under- taken. Here the money acquired in the West was invested in a farm which proved to be an unfortunate venture, for the ground was worn out and exhausted and the know^ledge the young people had of all agriculturaal pursuits was purely theoretical. The final result was that the money was soon al? spent and then the rememberance of the many opportunities tliey had left in the Golden West lured them to return. Again the family and plunder were loaded in the wagons and the return trip along the now familiar trail was started. There were four children by this time, and on the way, some- where back in Iowa, another baby was born to this heroic woman. A lay-by of only a couple of days was all she asked before the onward march was resumed. At one time, while passing through Utah on the first trip vrest, their train was fired upon by the Indians while the emi- grants were preparing their evening meal, the miscreants then charging down and, with horrid yells and flourishing of blankets and robes, endeavored to stampede the horses picketed a short distance from the Avagons. The bravery of the men in rushing to the rescue was all that prevented this catastrophe. In the morning the way led on through a deep ravine with rocky walls crowding close by the trail on either side. The frightened emigrants were sure they would be fired upon by the enemy from the tops of these walls but there was no other alternative than to proceed. The women drove the teams while the men with their guns over their shoulders, walked beside the wagons, guarding their families, their lives and their every earthly possession. But they were not further molested. In remembrance of this grand, courageous and loyai Avoman, I lovingly dedicate this book to MY MOTHER. CONTENTS Page Foreword '^ Wail of An Old Settler 5 Historical Sketch 6 Isaac I. Stevens 56 Elisha P. Ferry ^5 Samuel L,. Crawford 67 D. C. Beatty 81 Mrs. John G. Parker 95 John Miller Murphy 107 The B. Iv. Brown Family 116 Mount Rainier— Poem 120 Mrs. Jane W. Pattison 122 Louis Bettman 132 Thomas Prather 134 William Mitchell 142 Andrew Chambers 147 Mrs. A.Chambers' Story 164 Mrs. Jacob Ott 173 Dr. Alonzo G. Cook 177 Chas. D. King 180 William Lemon 182 L Harris 186 A. S. Yantis 189 Gustave Rosenthal 195 J. H.Sternberg 198 Robert Frost 201 D. R. Bigelow 206 George W. Mills 212 W. O. Thompson 219 Dr. N. Ostrander -- 226 The James Family 229 Albert A. Phillips 233 B. W. Johns 237 Dr. A. H. Steele 241 Thos. M. Macleay 244 Judge O. B. McFadden. 246 The Sylvesters 248 Gen. W. W. Miller 250 Page C. C. Simmons 252 H. R. Woodard 255 Stephen D. Reinhart 258 A Trip to Steilacoom . 260 The Crosby Family 267 B. F. Yantis 272 Reese A. Brewer 274 Wm. Billings 275 R. H. Milroy 278 John B. Allen 280 Recollections of a Native Son. 282 A Reluctant Bridegroom 291 George D. Shannon 294 P. M. Troy's Reminiscences. . 296 Building a Meetin' House 298 Mrs. John G. Sparks 300 Early Newspapers 302 T. M. Reed 306 Tumwater Reminiscences 309 David T. Drewry 316 Bush Family 320 Capt. S. Willey 325 E.N.Sargent 326 P. D. Moore 328 Capt. S. W. Percival 332 Settlement of Hawk's Prairie. 355 Priest Point Park 359 Judiciary of Thurston County. 364 Mason Irwin — 366 M.J. Gordon 367 T. M. Reed, Jr. 367 C. H. Ayer 368 Byron Millett 369 O.V.Linn 369 John R. Mitchell 370 C. E. Claypool 370 Chronological Table 373 Fraternal Organizations 392 / B?'S'.'f';;V,';i1: ' ■:(;■. 'I mm R>».:.);:M;;;|^ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 017 188 251 5