WILLIAM H. RAU PHILADELPHIA - 1891 A Descriptive Reading ON Calcutta and Bombay f« ILLUSTRATED BY TWELVE LANTERN ^^ SLIDES ^^^ ^y RIGHT WILLIAM H. RAU PHILADELPHIA 1891 Copyright, i8gi, by William H. Rau. A:0 ILLUSTRATIONS. 1. Panorama of Calcutta, 2. Interior Compound Baboo's Home. 3. Mullick's Ghat, Hoogley River. 4. The Great Banyan. 5. Burmese Pagoda, Eden Gardens. 6. Bridge and Foliage, Eden Gardens. 7. Native Bungalow, Royal Botanical Gardens. 8. Punjab Court, (Calcutta Exhibition). 9. Esplanade Road, Bombay. 10. The High Court, Bombay. 11. Public Works Office. 12. General View of Elephanta Caves. CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY. The romance that surrounded that India that bounded the mental horizon of Columbus has not decreased in proportion as our knowledge respecting it has broadened. Say, rather that since 1858, when England became the ruler of India, our curiosity in that direction has been on the increase ; and nowhere will we be apt to find more characteristic Indian life than in Calcutta, its principal city. 1 . Panorama of Calcutta — Situated in a com- manding position on the banks of the Hoogley river — one of the numerous mouths of the Ganges, it holds the traffic of the Bengal Bay within it hands. Calcutta, although architecturally considered magni- ficent, was at one time one of the most unhealthy spots in India ; the country being flat with here and there extensive muddy lakes breeding malaria and all manner of diseases; but these local disadvantages being partially removed, the city has gained for itself the title of ''The City of Palaces." The European por- tion of the city extends about five miles along the river ; a noble and much frequented esplanade divides the town from Fort William. Opposite the Fort stands the Government House, said to have been erected by the Marquis of Wellesley ; near by, in close succession, are the Town Hall, Treasury and High Court. Immediately beyond the Fort, the fine (5) 6 CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY. steeple of the Cathedral is seen, rising pure and high above the surrounding foliage. The native portion of the town is a direct contrast to the European por- tion, being a succession of huts made of mud or bamboo, in which three-fourths of the population reside. The streets are more or less narrow, filthy, unpav^d and unswept. Within this wretched vicinity are not less than twenty bazaars, extending from one end of the native quarter to the other, through which the teeming population seem to surge and flow, un- changed through all changes of governors, constitu- tions and rulers. Edwin Arnold says of Calcutta, that it is a great and busy Indian Liverpool, built on a swamp and dignified with the style and title of cap- ital by reason of having become the seat of govern- ment. 2. Interior Coinpouucl Baboo's Home. — In pass- ing along the Esplanade one comes in contact with all sorts and conditions of people ; the bearded Mo- hammedan, the turbaned Hindoo, the gaily dressed English residents, and now and then a white-robed, bare-headed Baboo. These white-robed clerks abstain from stockings, but wear patent-leather shoes of Eng- lish manufacture, instead of the usual native slipper, in consequence of a decree which allows such shoes to be kept on in any court, but only Europeanized Hindoos would wear leather as it is considered im- pure, being made of dead beasts. The view shows the interior compound or grounds of a Baboo's home. The grounds seem to be very well kept, and the long line of steps forms an imposing entrance to the arched doorways adorned by massive pillars. CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY. 7 3. Mullick's Ghat, Hoogley Kiver. — A visit to Calcutta would not be complete without having seen the bathing ghats. At sunrise they present a most novel sight. It is remarkable that the two Oriental systems of religion,the Hindoo and the Mohammedan, should blend personal cleanliness with religious rites, making cleanliness, not next to godliness as we would have it, but synonomous with it. The view here of Mullick's Ghat, on the Hoogley, shows the young and old of both sexes clothed in white muslin, a shade thinner than our ordinary white cloth. The women wear a large square piece or over-garment called a chudder ; the priests keep their shoulders covered by a fcAv yellow threads passed over one arm and under the other. When the disc of the sun is fairly above the horizon, the crowd rush into the water with appar- ent glee, each carrying a large or small brass pot called a *'lota," used for dipping and pouring out the holy water, while looking at the sun, which they do, as if praying to it rather than to the river. Some carry rice, others, a sort of rosary made of natural yellow flowers or white lilacs, which they seem to count while praying, and then cast into the river. When the devotions are concluded they wash their outer garments, fill their lota pots and take home the holy liquid to drink and to cook their rice, but should the shadow of an unbeliever fall upon it, they throw it away as unclean. 4. The Great Banyan. — Characteristic of Indian vegetable luxuriance is the marvelous banyan tree ; its main trunk reaching 50 feet in circumference, seems still dissatisfied with its size and so sends out branches, 8 CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY. which spreading outward and then earthward burrows into the ground, takes root and forms new roots, making a charming filigree of leaves, through which the sun in vain attempts to shed his beams. So nature reproduces this wondrous growth, until the banyan tree frequently covers many hundred feet in circum- ference. "Its branches shoot to heaven and sink to earth, Even as the deeds of men, which take their birth from qualities." The great glory of the botanical gardens is the superb banyan tree, it is nearly loo years old; 200 air roots have descended to the earth from beneath its mighty branches. Its outside circumference, 800 feet, is so remarkable that our imagination can scarcely picture its vastness. 5. Burmese Pagoda, Eden Oardens. — Within easy access of all are the pretty Eden Gardens. The Burmese Pagoda, reaching almost to the height of the tall palm trees, forms the most prominent feature. This many-spired building consisting of seven stories, each one smaller than its predecessor, though so beautifully proportioned as to form a perfect slant from top to base, is a dainty and picturesque construct- ion, light and airy enough in its architecture to har- monize with its sunny surroundings; with the tropical vegetation as a background and the winding river in full view, giving by reflection a double picture, forms as a whole a most pleasing view of one of the suburbs or picnic grounds, as we would call them of the resi- dents of Calcutta. CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY. 9 6. Bridge and Foliage, Eden Gardens. — A closer inspection of the gardens shows denser foliage and many beautiful views. Refreshing ornamental waters form a charming foreground to the surround- ing government buildings. The winding waters, the varied foliage, the amphitheatre of handsome edifices, the forests of masts from the shipping in the near dis- tance, the guns of Fort William overlooking the ani- mated scene forms a very pleasing impression. The substantial bridge almost concealed by the mass of foliage, only enhances the beauty of the scene, and we can almost feel the rays of the Indian sun tem- pered into balmy breezes by the waving palm trees. 7. Native Bungalow, Koyal Botanical Gardens. — Follow me to the Royal Botanical Gardens and I will show you still another scene of luxuriance and beauty. They are situated beyond the village of Seebpur, on the bank of the Ganges. The drive over the Hoogle}^ bridge is dusty and without interest, so we will take the pleasantest route which is by boat down the river to the Garden Ghat. The garden fronts the river for a mile and is 272 acres in extent. A pretty lake winds through the gardens, in which is found every variety of indigenous water plants, and fine specimens of the great Victoria Regia lily. The palmetum is singularly beautiful, and is well planted with a great variety of palms, not merely those pecul- iar to India, but others from all parts of the world. The orchid houses are renowned in horticulture and well deserving of the praise lavished upon them, for when the season is at its height, the houses are one mass of bloom. The avenues of palms, mahogany TO CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY. and deodar, are of surpassing loveliness, but the great glory of the gardens, and the pride of the Hin- doos is the superb banyan tree already described. Wandering through the gardens, constantly finding new beauties, we come upon a bungalow or native house, picturesquely situated under over-arching trees, its whole exterior carefully thatched, for in such a climate no stronger protection from the ele- ments is needed. The bungalow is a one-storied building with a high sloping roof. The furniture of the interior is simple and unpretentious, but is very cumbrous looking. One apartment, that designed for casual European visitors, is more elegantly fur- nished, but the general apartments contain few lux- uries. 8. Punjab Court, (Calcutta Exhibition). — From these world-famed gardens we wend our way to the Punjab Court at Calcutta. The term "Punjab" liter- erally means the union, or meeting of the five rivers, so that the term is applied in India to the northern part or that watered by the Indus, Ganges, and their tributaries. The Punjab Court at the Calcutta Exhi- bition, presented a striking appearance. The exquis- itely carved tables and cabinets, in which the work is as dainty as a lace fabric, the statuettes, unique and beautiful vases, the brilliant artistic draperies all seem so effectively arranged that we are loathe to leave them. The Mosaic work here exhibited is fully equal to some of the rich Florentine gems, while our Euro- pean friends admit themselves vanquished when their carvings are placed in contrast with Indian workman- ship. CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY. II 9. Esplanade Koacl. Bombay.— Now, that we have seen the principal places of interest in Calcutta we will travel to Bombay and view one of its princi- pal streets— the Esplanade Road. The statue, which in this view, is its most prominent feature, is that of the Empress of India, and is at the junction of the Esplanade and Hornby Roads. Turning down the Esplanade, at the angle formed by the two roads, is the Cathedral High School, a fine Gothic structure; at the end of this road is the Mechanic's Institute, the gift of the Sassoons. Turning to the right, and fol- lowing Esplanade cross road, we find at our right the Francis Xavier College, beyond which, opposite the Free Church, is the General National Hospital. The road ends at the Crawford Market, where, if we were there, we should surely stop to purchase fruit. Re- turning by Market Road, we find the school of Art on the right and the Salvation Army headquarters on the left. Presently the Great India Peninsula Railway is reached, in front of which is the well-managed European Hospital. Hornby Row reaches back to the statue of the Empress, and a turn to the left, along Church Gate Street, opens out into Ephistone Circle, the heart of the business quarter, in which we find the Town Hall, Cathedral and most of the leading banks. lO. The High Court, Bomhay.— Before leaving the city proper, which is like Calcutta, divided into two parts, a native and European quarter, we must pay a visit to the High Court. It stands among a line of magnificent buildings and presents a most im- posing view. The huge building is 560 feet long, and 12 CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY. is said to have cost £164,000. One can almost imagine the varied street scenes that those numberless arched windows afford, especially in a city where are to be found specimens of every race and nation of the East. The Arab from Muscat, Persians from the Gulf, Afghans from the northern frontier, Negroes of Zan- zibar, and Malays and Chinese, all thronging the busy streets, and now and then making way for the innum- erable carts drawn by the patient, sleepy-eyed oxen, threading their creaking way amid tram-cars, buggies, victorias, palanquins and handsome English car- riages. 11. Public Works Office.— The Public Works Office, a much smaller building, in the Venetian Gothic style of architecture stands next to the High Court. The main building, with its gabled tower- stands out in bold relief against the clear blue sky, and in noting its lighter architecture, in contrast to its next door neighbor, one almost feels the sun brighten, and involuntarily our thoughts put on a lighter tone and we look with pleasure at this useful building, surrounded, as it is, by an enclosed park, beautifully kept. The building is airy and comfort- able. There are several entrances to the building, each having a broad, comfortable flight of steps ; here and there at the upper stories, well-shaded verandas are found, each lending its proportion of grace to the general effect. The interior is commodiously furnished and well arranged for the dignitaries and clerks, who make this departmental work their daily occupation. A few fine specimens of trees give to the building an additional air of comfort and beauty. CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY. 1 3 12. General View ot Elephanta Caves. — Every- body who comes to Bombay pays a visit to the Island of Elephanta, to inspect the cave cut in the rock, which is one of the most striking sights in the coun- try. The name of the cave was anciently Gharipoore, or ''The Town of the Rock," or according to some, the town of purification. The principal cave is of great extent, excavated out of the solid rock. The colossal columns of the portico seem to hold up the mountain above them ; on each side of the entrance great creep- ers come down in heavy masses over the mountain ; rows and rows of columns handsomely ornamented appear within, growing beautifully less in the distance and vanishing amid gloomy shadows and a thousand fantastic shapes. The gateway leads directly through the heart of the mountain and the different shrines which contain objects of Hindoo worship, are placed on each side. In the centre there is seen, by the light of torches, a majestic altar of stone, partially in a state of decay, supporting a gigantic bust of three noble heads, the Hindoo Trinity of Siva, Vishnu and Brahma to whom this cavern temple is said to be dedi- cated and who is seen in another compartment with Parvati, which in Sanskrit signifies happiness. Pleas- ure is seen on the right. In a hand outstretched from the altar he grasps a cobra, with its hood extended wide in his hand, transforming the character of the symbol into that of the avenger or destroyer. On the left side of Siva is Vishnu in the grand character of pre- server. The shape of the large cave is cruciform and resembles the plan of an ancient Basilica. The mas- siveness and strength of the pillars which find their deep foundations in the earth below, supporting the 14 CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY. elephant-shaped mountain above, is rendered more striking by a thousand and one scenes of Hindoo my- thology, in part solemn and majestic, and in part gro- tesque and absurd that fills every part of the walls. Everywhere are curious and venerable specimens of sculpture, which though shamefully mutilated in parts, still show so high an advance in art, that one half expects the stone figures to speak.