'Ipairi and icr lost Golonios. W. EDWIN PRIEST. 905 French Street Northwebi, WASHINGTON, D. C. V \. Hi ion 1912 SPAIN AND HER LOST COLONIES, V A LECTURE. WASIIINOTON, I). C. JUDD A DETWEILBR, PitlSTKKfl 181W an interior older than our Republic, yet comparable with the finish of our own magnificent Congressional Library. 6. A Room in the Royal Palace. There are interminable vistas of rooms, grand salons hung with antique brocades and exquisite old satins in soft and beautiful colors, old rose and blue, embroidered in gold and flowers. This is one of the smaller apartments, but notice the polisli of the beautiful mosaic floor, the costly table, the silken hangings, and richl}^ covered walls. The Superb Throne Room 7. Throne Room. is hung entirely with ancient cramoisy velvet. The ornate beauty of this hall, in gold and crimson, is said to have im- pressed even Napoleon. With the Royal Palace at Madrid our own White House makes no comparison. The vacant throne is yet to be occupied by the Little King? 8. Little King. Alphonso XIII. Thirteen is said to be an unlucky number. So far the boy king has lost his colonies. What yet he may lose remains to be seen. Never has a little Prince had more tender maternal care or more princely education ; and to that devoted mother and excellent woman, the Queen Regent, 9. Queen Regent. the people of Spain owe much. She, at least, in her high place has set the example of all that is most womanly, noble, and beautiful ; and yet to many in the Kingdom she is simply the foreigner from Austria." She has rendered herself unpopular with the people because she discountenances that national barbarity, the Bull Fight, 10. Bull Fight. and, contrary to royal usage from time immemorial, will never attend it. << The Bull King of Madrid is of vast size, seating thousands of people, and is patronized by the highest of the nobility, sehors and senoritas alike. The Queen has been ably aided by one 11. Sagasta. on whom the burdens of state have borne all too heavily of late, the Premier Sagasta, a man who is a type of much that is best and most able in the Spanish character. In consideration of Spain's financial embarrassment, the Queen has always declined to accept the annual income of a quarter million pesetas, due her as Regent. Spain, however, derives little benefit from the unselfish sacrifice ; the poli- ticians of the capital, the most dishonest in the world, have simply appropriated to their own uses this income, the equiv- alent of fifty thousand dollars. 12. Palace of the Cortes. Of the government itself, nothing too bad can be said. Spain during the present century has had seven difi'erent constitutions, two at a time occasionally. A wretched, in- efficient, inconsistent, fearfully oppressive militarism, there is on the part of the people for it nothing but the supremest indiff'erence, coupled with passive, helpless submission. No- where is the toiler so subordinated to the drone. The Palace of the Cortes, The National Capitol. The cortes does not possess any great amount either of influence or political power, except that of the dishonest sort, while the elections to it are farcical to the last degree. The astound- ing ignorance displayed by its statesmen in regard to mod- ern history and modern afiairs in general is simply past belief. The society of Madrid is cultivated, elegant — modeled after that of Paris. There is refinement, polish in every Spanish town, and yet a nation more depraved does not exist. The Spaniard is brave, courteous, endowed with common sense, in some things, but he is still a Spaniard,' and as to what that is the centuries have recorded. He is what he is from two thousand years of inheritance and environment. It is a case 4 of heredity, and a very mixed heredity. What can you ex- pect of a nation trained from her earliest history in nameless cruelty ? In her present condition, Spain is utterly unfit to govern either herself or any dependency whatever. Decadent as she is, unless a change for the better is soon inaugurated, she must before many generations join the innumerable com- pany of nations whose wrecks strew the plains of the past. In the peasantry, if anywhere, lies the hope for the future — a patient, worthy people, though ground down to the very earth, and profoundly ignorant. 13. The Escurial. The Convent palace of the Escurial, the royal burial place, and the largest palatial structure in Europe, is situated about twenty-five miles from Madrid. The mausoleum beneath this structure is the most solemn and magnificent sepulcher in the world. Here all the Kings of Spain, since the time of its erection by Philip II, three centuries ago, have been buried. From the royal windows on one side of the palace at Madrid the eye overlooks the country — a country which aston- ishes, because here, so near the city, it has already the appear- ance of a desert : no houses, no roads, a vast, half-savage, dreary expanse, ending at the far-off mountains ; and yet this was once a productive area. Everywhere the country is denuded of trees, though at one time densely wooded. It is but a picture of the kingdom itself, mismanaged,. worn out. 14. View on the Guadalquiver. Along the river at Seville. Spain in its more modern aspect, with a single relic of antiquity in the background, the " Tower of Gold," so called because the gold brought from the Americas in former centuries, amounting to some millions a year, used to be stored within it. We have but to leave the river front, pass the fringing trees beyond the tower, and penetrate 15. Street Scene, Seville. the older streets of the city to find ourselves in medieeval Spain, so different from what we have just seen as to seem like quite another part of the world. 16. Spanish Country Road. A country road near Grenada. In no land is there so much of the antiquely picturesque. There is no country that is more full of return in the way of quaint surprises. 17. Saragossa. To convey some idea of the age of things in the Peninsula here is a view of Saragossa, situated on the Ebro, a city founded during the life-time of Christ, by Augustus Csesar. The very name, Saragossa, is but a corruption of Csesar Au- gustus. The bridge was finished just two or three years before Columbus first sailed for America. 1 8. Alcazar. And now, with but a glimpse at one of the " Castles in Spain," the famous Alcazar of Segovia, beautiful relic of a vanished race, the persecuted Moors of the centuries gone, we reluctantly turn to 19. Cadiz. Cadiz, a very clean-looking city from the white stone used in building — " Little Silver Cup " the Spaniards call it — ^fi'om whence, only a few short months ago, Cervera's fleet set sail to meet its fate at Santiago. Here we will take ship for the Canaries, which lie six hundred and fifty miles to the southwest, within fifty or sixty miles of the African coast, so that a couple of days' sail brings us into the harbor 20. Harbor of Las Palmas. of Las Palmas, on the Grand Canary. This harbor is full of life. One hundred and fifty ships enter and leave every 6 month, touching here for water and supplies, bound on voy- ages to all parts of the world. 20>^. Terraces, Las Palmas. Las Palmas, prosperous and growing from the trade which here centers, is a quaint and interesting place. The terraced part of the city is especially attractive, and with its tropical growth presents quite the effect of a town in the Orient. We wish to look critically at the Spanish influence in the Canaries, for the reason that it is here exerted under the most auspicious circumstances, and if here a failure, nowhere can it be anything else. 21. Map of Canaries. The islands are seven in number, of which Grand Canary and Teneriffe are the principal, with a total area of 3,000 square miles, two and a half times that of Rhode Island, and with a population about equal to it. There are, therefore, many towns, in any one of which 22. Typical Street Scene, Tenor, Grand Canary. this is a typical street scene; for the general appearance of the towns everywhere is Spanish, as are the customs and lan- guage of the people, but it is life modified by contact, especially with the English. The climate of the Canaries is wonderful beyond descrip- tion — 23. Botanical Gardens, Orotava, Teneriffe. tropical luxuriance without the heat of the tropics, balminess the whole year through. For weeks at a time, from May to November, the weather is like that of our most delightful spring days. This fountain in the Botanical Gardens at Orotava, in Teneriffe, with its surrounding wealth of tropical trees and flowers, gives a good idea of the beauty of the vegetation. 24. Dragon Tree. A botanical wonder is this dragon tree. Forty feet high, 3,500 years old, it stands in the island of TenerifFe. That tree was growing Avhen Moses was still in Egypt. The Canary archipelago constitutes a province, and so a part of Spain — not a colony such as Cuba and Porto Eico ; nevertheless the officials are nearly all sent out from the Peninsula, and the oppression is very great. The administra- tive offices have been multiplied beyond all reason to make sinecures for the friends and retainers of the Madrid politi- cians. Even the smaller and more secluded villages have several officials, and there are always the inevitable local gar- rison and the tax-collector, making a heavy burden for the impoverished peasantry, who must pay taxes on all produce taken into the tow^ns to be sold, if it is only a basket of eggs, rents and taxes on their miserable huts or caves 25. Picture of Hillside Cave House. in the hillsides ; taxes on the very daylight, for they may not even put a window in their houses without paying the government for the privilege, and that in an annual tax. Some of the taxes are still farmed out to the highest bidder — that is, the man who bids to collect the largest amount of tax from a given district is given the appointment. What- ever he can extort by fraud or force, over the stipulated amount he keeps for himself It is the old story, the blighting Jmnd of Spain. It is vain to speak of the poetic and artistic sense, the literary and ma- terial accomplishment of the Spanish nation. The real key-note to a civilization is given in grewsome scenes like the one now before you. 26. Charnel Pit at Las Palmas. Where in an American city, a city in England, or in Ger- many, would be tolerated a Charnel Pit like this in Las Pal- mas? Something you may find in almost any Spanish city — in Havana itself ; in Porto Rico. The plan is that the grave shall remain untouched only so long as the rental is kept up 8 by the family of the deceased. When that stops, whether from poverty or neglect, this is the end. 27. Peasant Plowing. The Canary peasants are unusually kindly and peaceable ; indeed, crimes of any kind are rare among them. They are frugal and industrious, as they are obliged to be, in order to make a living under the wretched government. 28. An Old Peasant. We see here the quaint costume of the rural districts^ which, however, is fast passing away. Ordinarily the cos- tume worn in the towns does not materially differ from that in our own country. 29. Peasant Women Gathering Aloe Leaves for Fuel. Peasant women gathering dried aloe leaves for fuel. Wood is scarce in the islands, and almost anything is used for burning. The aloe hedge is quite a feature, though at first glance it seems but illy adapted either for fencing or burn- ing. 30. Peasant Women Spinning. Patient toil is the lot of all these poor women, who, in common with most European peasants, have little in life but constant labor. The distaflP is a quaint object ; but it is, pos- sibly, the chief dependence for a subsistence for the women here using it. 3 1 . Shepherd Resting. Full of the sea-island rest and quiet is this beautiful scene — the shepherd resting. The tall lichen grows beside the rock, while the ground is gray with it. The islanders, though reckoning themselves as loyal and patriotic Spaniards, chafe in secret under the oppression of the Peninsula, and while there is no thought of revolution 9 among them, they have seen enough of the superior justice and business methods of 32. Shepherd Walking. the English, who are possessed of large interests in the Islands, to appreciate the improved conditions under which they would find themselves were government justly administered. There is one thing which, in these Islands, is well done, and that is the construction of the roads with which Spain has connected 33. Road, Grand Canary. the principal towns of Grand Canary and Teneriffe. On ac- count of the extremely mountainous character of the country, the building of roads is very difficult. They have fre- quently, for long distances, been blasted out of the solid rock, 34. Road, Grand Canary. winding along the perpendicular sides of deep ravines ; but these highways simply connect the cities. All other roads are mere paths of the roughest description, usually filled with loose stones, and in the rainy season forming the beds of small torrents. There is not the slightest attempt to make them better, and so difficult is transportation, that on these most valuable Islands, with their superlative climate, fertile soil, and over-population, there are large and fertile tracts sparsely inhabited for lack of means of access. For centuries the inhabitants have been paying a large part of their slender incomes in taxes without having, in many parts, the advantage of a single public improvement, not even a passable road. The same amount of taxation paid to an honest, efficient 34>^. Peasant with Donkey and Sugar-cane. government and expended for local purposes would have made one of the garden spots of the world. These peasants have in them the possibilities of great advancement, if only they could be placed under right and helpful influences. 10 A greater blessing could not come to the people of the Canaries than to fall into the hands of England or the United States, and commercially it would be an inestimable boon to either country to possess them. Sailing from the Canaries, we follow the route pursued by Columbus four hundred years ago. When Columbus landed in the Bahamas, where now lies the Maria Teresa — a remarkable coincidence — 35. Landing of Columbus. he indeed " gave to Castile and Leon a New World," but his discovery caused that world untold misery and doomed its inhabitants to destruction. In San Domingo or Haiti alone the inoffensive natives were reduced by massacre, torture, and the most frightful slavery from 1,000.000 to 16.000 in fifteen years, to say nothing of the horrors of Cortez in Mexico or Pizarro in Peru, or of what took place throughout South America and in the rest of the Antilles. 35>^. Scene in Cuba. We pass now to that beautiful island, which, in spite of all its dark and troubled history, can only appropriately be called " The Pearl of the Antilles." 36. Map of Cuba. Cuba lies within eighty miles of the shores of the United States and almost tangent to the Tropic of Cancer, stretching directly south of a line running from New York to Cincin- nati. It is 720 miles long, on the average 60 miles wide, slightly less in size than the State of New York, with a population, before the war, of one and a half million — two- thirds white, one-third black. 36>^. Map of the West Indies. The Isle of Pines lies just to the south, formerly a penal colony and a resort of smugglers. 11 Although Cuba is geographically situated to command the entire commerce of the West Indies, yet such has been the restraint placed by Spain upon all intercourse with the surrounding islands that Cuba has practically had no com- merce with them whatever, and so perpetual has been the quarantine existing against the island on the part of all its neighbors that to reach any of the adjacent islands, as Haiti or Jamaica, — each less than a hundred miles distant — it has usually been necessary for the Cuban first to proceed to New York and thence to his destination. A ship canal once cut through Nicaragua, Cuba, with its magnificent harbors, will always be the key to the Caribbean , and in fact the outer gate to the commerce of the East, and so must be under the control of the dominant power of the Western Hemisphere. The fairest 37. Tree Ferns. of tropical lands, over the whole is a mantle of tender and beautiful vegetation, rich in the hues of its three thousand species — tree ferns, palms, rare exotics, every variety of trop- ical fruit and product, fields upon fields 38. Pineapple Field. of pineapples, which grow upon the higher levels and espe- cially upon the Isle of Pines. There are millions of acres of the richest lands that have never yet been subjected to cultivation. The capabilities of the island have onl}^ been touched on the edges. In evidence of the exceeding fertility of the soil, Cuba, under the unfavorable conditions of the past, has produced one million tons of sugar a year. 39. Sugar Manufactory. There is on each great sugar plantation a central factory and crushing mill for making the sugar. This factory is connected by private lines of railway with many square miles of territory, where the cane is grown. It was the out- 12 lying buildings and stations of these vast estates that were so wantonly destroyed by the insurgents. With American capital and American industry, the imag- ination can scarcely conceive the possibilities for Cuba as a secure and wisely governed territory. There will be road, railroad, and bridge building. Out- 40. Cuban Ox Cart. side of the immediate vicinity of the cities, there is now not a single constructed highway. What is known as a royal road is merely a broad strip of country fenced by cactus and barbed wire, and passable only on horseback or by ox carts in dry weather. Two days of rain stops traffic in alb directions. 41. A Good Road in Cuba. What they call a good road in Cuba, and one much trav- ersed, near the city of Matanzas. With the entrance of the American, there will be sanita- tion of the cities, making them healthful. It is scarcely pos- sible for us to imagine the utter neglect of even the first prin- ciples of sanitary precaution in the cities of Cuba and Porto Rico. With refuse of houses dumped along the curbstone or piled in the rear, dead animals in the streets, horrible odors everywhere, what wonder there are fevers, smallpox, and every species of contagion. 42. Landing at Ponce. Havana is about the only town amply supplied with water. In most other towns there is very little or none besides the rain water, stored in stone cisterns in the houses. It is not that the people do not appreciate the necessity and luxury of water. Taxes are levied for this purpose, and special taxes have sometimes been laid to build water works,but the money once calmly banked to the credit of the town officials is seldom heard of again. In like manner money has been collected for the construc- tion of piers in the magnificent harbors, but the piers were 13 never built, necessitating all the inconvenience of lading shown at this landing place at Plaza, the port of Ponce, in Porto Rico. 43. Mountains of Eastern Cuba. One should speak of the salubrious highlands and the beautiful mountains of Cuba, of which the highest are in the eastern part of the island — " the delectable mountains," in- deed, they are to those wearied with the heat and oppression of the lowlands. Here are peaks rising to the height of 8,000 feet, with air as clear and bracing as that of a northern clime. These mountains are very rich in minerals, iron and copper, the value of the latter, formerly exported from this region, amounting to several millions a year. 44. Cavern. One of the natural wonders of Cuba is her great caverns. The rock formation is limestone, and the country is full of caves of remarkable size and beauty, of which the caves of Bellamar, near Matanzas, extend three miles under ground, and are especially notable for the beauty of their stalactite formations. 45. River Cave. The caverns were much used by the insurgents as hiding places. It is no unusual thing in Cuba for a river to disap- pear into an underground channel, to reappear at a lower level miles away. These caves were also used by the abo- rigines. In this particular cave, near Santiago, a young friend of mine found two very finely formed stone mortars, probably left there by the early Indians. 46. Cuban Farm-house. A farm-house in Cuba is not exactly a New England homestead, nor yet a Pennsylvania farm-house, but it is nevertheless a home, and a Cuban home is quite as happy a place as are our more northern ones. 47. Another Country House. 14 The houses of large plantation owners or overseers are more substantially constructed, often luxurious within, and the scenes of gay festivities on gala occasions. It was for the producers on the smaller plantations that there was conceived the brilliant idea of extermination. Five hundred thousand of the poorer of these people were forced away from their farms into the Spanish lines, where no food could be obtained and where none was given them ; houses were burned, crops torn up, cattle driven off; over 250,000 helpless people, the greater number women and children, wxre starved « 48. Starving Cuban. to death. The haggard faces and fleshless bones of his vic- tims must surely haunt the author of all this. Weyler is but a type of the Spaniard in his worse aspect. 49. Weyler. Affable, polished, educated, he yet presents that incompre- hensible combination of cruelty and refinement — utter cal- lousness to the sufferings of a subject race. 50. Avenue of Palms. The cruelty which has been practiced in Cuba would fill volumes with its horrible details. Three times has Spain endeavored to wipe out by butchery and starvation the entire native population. The first of these attempts, practiced in former centuries upon the aborigines, was most fearfully ac- complished. The second was made by General Valamaseda, during the ten years' war, between the years '68 and '78, who wrote : " Not a single Cuban will remain on this island." The intentions of this zealous officer^were only foiled by the arousal of foreign public sentiment against him. The third attempt at extermination has, in the full light of the close of our 19th century, been entirely successful. In this connection it is necessary to refer to the atrocities inflicted by Spain upon citizens of the United States. As but 15 few of our younger people know of the facts in connection with the tragic Virginius affair of 1873, I would like to recall how, in that instance, fifty-two persons, some of them American citizens, were lined up and shot by order of the Spanish Governor in Santiago. It is but a single illustra- tion of what the attitude of Spain has constantly been with reference to citizens of our long-forbearing country. 51. A Mangrove Swamp. A mangrove swamp along the coast. This peculiar growth is found on the edges of shallow inlets, where its constant encroachment beyond the water-line aids very materially in the extension of the shores. The military despotism of which we have been speaking has been accompanied by such exorbitant taxation as has never been known elsewhere in the world. An odious system of stamp taxes even went so far as to affix an impost stamp upon every arrival at a hotel. Spain made no public improvements outside of the cities and but few there ; if the Cubans attempted any, the work was taxed. In 1879 the total revenue collected was thirty-five million dollars. Of this only ninety-eight thousand ever reached Spain ; the officials in Cuba got the rest. Speaking of the notorious dishonesty of the officials, within the last century every Governor General of Cuba except one has gone back to Spain a millionaire. Spain's colonies have been but the feeding-troughs for her worthless, hungry politicians and decayed nobles. They have steadily grown rich, while Spain and her colonies have constantly grown poorer. Fortifications have been paid for which existed only on paper. Armies have been equipped, though no soldier or public advantage profited by the money expended. When Cabanas Castle, 52. Cabanas Castle. of which this is a picture, was built beside the Morro at Havana, the bill was sent to Charles III of Spain. He studied 16 it attentively, and then picking up a small telescope lying near he significantly pointed it toward the west, exclaiming : " If the fort is as big as the bill, we ought to be able to see it from this side." Having spoken thus much of Spanish provincial methods, we will pass El Morro, 53. El Morro. whose foul dungeons have destroyed more lives than all the cannon ever mounted on its walls. Some few immured in this Bastile of Cuba have come back into the bright world again, but unnumbered hundreds have perished in a cap- tivity which was but a lingering death. 54. Harbor of Havana. Beautiful and picturesque as is the city, the harbor of Ha- vana is one of the most insalubrious in the world. Though it has a capacity for a thousand ships ; it has an entrance both narrow and shallow, while the bay within is hundreds 55. The City Wharves. of feet in depth ; therefore no tidal action can ever cleanse the harbor, which for centuries has been receiving the drain- age of the city. The city wharves are quite busy places ; and ships from all parts of the world may be found there. The great derrick was erected for unloading the guns, in- tended for the recent defence of Havana, and between the two ships, somewhat to this side, is where the Maine was blown up. 56. Wreck. The wreck. Perhaps in looking at this melancholy relic of a once proud and beautiful ship, the cost of a warship suggests itself It is from two millions and a half to over three millions. And now beside the wreck we will place one of our finest ships. 57. Forward Deck of the Indiana. 17 Forward deck of the Indiana. These are 13-inch guns. The cost of a 13-inch gun with mount is $100,000. It weighs 60 tons. It takes nearly a year to make it. It costs |600 to fire it off. The energy of the discharge of the main battery of one of our great warships — that is, four of these great guns — equals the energy of thirty-six 40-ton railroad loco- motives running at the rate of a mile a minute. There is absolutely nothing that can withstand such impingement. It is said that even Turkey is much impressed with our war vessels, and that she has ordered some like them. We are not informed as to whether she has ordered some men like ours. 58. General Lee in His Oflace. General Lee in his office in Havana just prior to the war. His recent reception in Cuba evidences the esteem in which he is held by all classes of the Cuban people. 59. A Business Street. Obispo street is one of the best in the city. The fact that most of the houses in Havana are two-storied will make the incoming Yankee appreciate the neglect of sky space. The Yankee in Havana will find ample opportunity to employ his energies. He will find that he is in the land of Manana, of tomorrow, of any time excepting now. 60. Palace of Governor General. The Palace of the Governor General, the residence once of Weyler, later of Blanco. Lee has often visited this palace. Possibly he will occupy it after awhile. It is magnificently fitted and furnished, contrasting painfully with the squalor of the~ homes of the poor in 61. Homes of the Poor. other parts of the city, for in no country in the world has the difference between rich and poor been more marked, 18 though these particular houses are not worse, sad to say, than many homes of the poor in our own cities. 62. A Walking Garden. A walking garden and street market. This and many other scenes of similar character are very familiar in Havana. 63. Tacon Market. The fine Tacon Market was reared at the instance of one of the Governor Generals, Tacon, who, for the convenience of the city, felt the need of a structure that would provide every facility for the proper and expeditious handling of perish- able foods. 64. A Cuban Interior. A very beautiful and imposing interior is that of the Casino, in whose cool corridors the Spanish officers during the war were accustomed to loiter and seek daily relief from the ennui of conflict. 65. Exterior of Cathedral. Perhaps the most interesting building in Havana is the Cathedral. In this antique structure was the reputed tomb of Columbus, although San Domingo claims to possess the genuine remains, while Spain has taken steps to deprive America altogether of the honor of possessing the dust of the Great Admiral. Like the Spaniard, the Cuban goes to church on Sunday in the morning and to the bull ring in the afternoon. 66. Avenue of Palms. The Botanical Gardens are extensive and filled with an endless variety of tropical plants and trees. These Royal Palms are found growing all over Cuba and Porto Rico, where they surround the farm-houses or form 19 stately avenues leading up to the residences of the great estates. They are a very marked feature in the landscape. 67. Fountain in Botanical Gardens. The fountain in the Botanical Gardens is very unique in its plan. The tropical growth along the wall gives a further idea of the beauty and luxuriance of these truly remarkable grounds. 68. La Puerz. The oldest house in Havana, though bearing about it an atmosphere of cosy quaintness, yet shows in its heavy walls its original use as a fortress. The Spanish mind duly appre- ciates the antique, and historical structures are carefully pre- served. 69. A Cuban Window. A Cuban window. The bars are simply to keep out in- truders. It makes one think of the famous painting of Char- lotte Corday. The size of these barred openings is explained 70. A Cuban Window. by the fact that in tropical countries there must be a constant circulation of fresh air through the house. Glass is little, if ever, used. The colored people of Cuba are quite intelligent and self- dependent. Slavery was abolished in 1886. 7 1 . Coal-heavers . Men and women alike perform the exceedingly laborious work of coaling ship. It requires five or six hundred tons to coal a single ship. Hundreds of women are employed, and all this vast quantity of coal is thus transported on their heads. As they walk in ceaseless file they sing their rhythmic songs. This is the old Spanish way of doing it, of course — a century or two behind the times, as usual ; but when American influ- 20 ences prevail here we shall have docks with electric appli- ances and coal shutes. 72. Rio Cauto The river scenery of Cuba is charming. Cubans trans- porting supplies- across the Rio Cauto, the longest river in Cuba, navigable for fifty miles. Unfortunately there is a sand bar at its mouth, which seriously obstructs navigation. 73. Yumiri River. The Yumiri, showing the gap through which the river reaches the sea near the city of Matanzas. The scenery on this river is not exceeded by any in Cuba, though it is a stream of only inconsiderable size. 74. Yumiri Valley. The famous Yumiri Valley is exceedingly fertile and cov- ered with great estates, which, however, were sadly devastated during the war. Guerillas making it troublesome for the opposite side. 75. A Sentry. A sentry. In this rather exposed manner the Insurgents were accustomed to take note of an approach of the enemy- The ever-ready palm serves here another useful purpose. 76. Company of Spanish Soldiers. A company of Spanish Soldiers. These poor follows, the conscripted peasants of Spain, who before their coming knew of Cuba only as a place to which their fathers and brothers had gone before them not to return again, did not cross the Atlantic of their own free will to die of fever and fight in a cause which meant nothing to them. 77. Cuban Flag. The Lone Star of the South, beautiful to those who have followed its leading, in the troublous period now past, and 78. The Dawn of Day in the Antilles. 21 whose rising heralds the dawn of day in the Antilles — a day which, let us hope, will be obscured by neither cloud nor storm. 79. A Matanzas Home. Formerly the homes of the wealthy Spaniards and well-to-do Cubans, both in the cities and on the great sugar estates, were in many instances palatial, the furnishings and fittings gor- geous in the extreme, and the use of silver for all domestic utensils quite common. A suburban city home, like this in Matanzas, or 80. Residence of Archbishop, Havana. a mansion like the residence of the Archbishop in Havana, will illustrate Cuban house architecture as developed by the wealthy. There was a time when the homes of the rich in Cuba excelled those of a similar class in our own country. 81. A Street in Santiago. A street in Santiago, with the mountains in the distance. Santiago, reference to which is so familiar, is the second commercial port in the island. Through all the future the name will be the synonym of American valor and patriotism. 82. Entrance to Plaza. The entrance to the Plaza, in which in the cool of the day the populace gatliei^ and where first the Stars and Stripes proclaimed American protection over Cuba. 83. View of Edge of Santiago. The scenery about Santiago, as everywhere in Cuba, is in- describably beautiful, as suggested by this glimpse of the edge of the town, with the bay and heights beyond. The lofty hills, the gigantic trees, the tropical charm, once seen are never to be forgotten. It is a significant fact that our great successes here were won by both our white and colored troops. A Spanish pris- oner, in speaking of the American soldiers, said : " The Yankees are sometimes white, sometimes yellow, and sometimes black, but they are all big men." In that one heroic charge by white and black alike up San Juan Hill, the Tenth Cavalry has done more to advance tlie cause of negro manhood than all the tirades on racial oppression ever written. Here let us do honor to the heroes revealed at Santiago. 84. Sampson. Rear Admiral Sampson, to whose efficient planning is due the effective handling of Cervera's fleet. 85. Scbley. " In selecting Schley as a commander of the Flying Squad- ron, America has probably opened the path to Glory for a new naval hero," were the words with which a magazine for June last began an account of the brilliant Commodore, Little did the writer of that sentence know the depth of prophecy therein contained. The ship is the first-class battle- ship Massachusetts, one of the Flying Squadron. 86. Hobson. In the words of President McKinley, " Hobson has done what the Spanish navy has never done. He has sunk an American ship, and caused a Spanish ship to float." He has by his deed, with thousands upon thousands of other brave hearts, but illustrated that there are no bounds to our willing sacrifice, no limit to the love of country and flag. There is no land like America ; no country like our own country. 87. Morro of Santiago. El Morro of Santiago. Morro is the word in Spanish equivalent to mount or mountain. This fortification is in- 23 teresting from its mediaeval appeai-ance and picturesque loca- tion ; but beneath its walls are noisome dungeons, and its inclosure has been the scene of inhuman executions. The waters which wash the rocks below swarm with sharks, and grewsome stories are told of how by means of these have been removed all traces of inconvenient suspects confined in the dungeons above. Leaving Cuba with her prisons and dismal memories, though entering now on a new and brighter era, we pass to our Porto Rico. About a thousand miles due southeast from Havana opens northward the harbor of San Juan de Puerto Rico, " Saint John of the Rich or Noble Port." San Juan is a perfect specimen 88. Morro Castle. of a walled town, with portcullis, moat, gates, and battle- ments. Built over two hundred and fifty years ago, it is still in good condition and rej)air. After the soiled red and yellow of old Spain was hauled down from the ramparts, the Spanish soldiers were made to believe by their leaders that the United States had purchased Porto Rico. A friend of mine, in talking with two soldiers just outside the Castle, was told confidentially by one of them that he thought the United States had paid too much for the island, because there w^ere so many negroes in it. When asked how much it was the United States had paid, he replied, " Seven mil- lions." This but illustrates the manner in which the Span- ish soldiers and common people have been continually de- ceived by their leaders. Inside the walls the city 89. San Juan. is laid off in regular squares, with very straight streets, which are beautifully paved with blocks brought from England. The streets are swept once a day by hand, and kept, strange to say for a Spanish- American city, remarkably clean. This imposing cavalcade of Spanish troops will claim most of our attention, but vou will have time to observe the substantial 24 and tasteful structure of the houses, usually of two stories. Entering one of these houses, you find yourself in a court, around which the house is built. The first story is given up to perhaps a dozen families of negroes, 90. Colored Women. who crowd one upon another in the most appalling manner, while the upper stories are occupied by refined, well-to-do white people. Our great problem in Porto Rico will be as to how to deal with the very poor, of whom the greater proportion are colored. 91. Map of Porto Rico. Porto Rico is almost rectangular in shape, and is about 100 miles long and 40 broad, with an area larger than that of Rhode Island and Delaware taken together. It takes the first place among the Antilles for general prosperity and density of population, 800,000 being the estimated number of people. It is one of the few countries in tropical America where the whites outnumber the other races. Across the island to Ponce runs a fine military road, 92. Military Road. of which this is a view. We are on the higher elevations at this point, where the growth resembles more that of the tem- perate zone. There are many good roads along the coast- A railway has been projected to encircle the island, one hun- dred and thirty miles of which, of the four hundred to be constructed, have been built. 93. Street in Ponce. Ponce, in which the street scenes do not greatly differ from those in our own southern cities, is situated on the south coast of the island, on a rich plain about two miles from the sea, and lies surrounded by luxuriant gardens and plan- 25 tations. The name of the town as pronounced by the natives is either Ponce or Ponce, while the Castilian is Pontha. 94. Park in Ponce. The Park gives an idea of the public taste of the city. The sea breezes are constant, and pure water is amply sup- plied for all purposes by an aqueduct. Ponce, in conse- quence, is perhaps the healthiest town of the island. 95. Milking Cows. The milk service is quite unique, as in many other Cuban and Porto Rican towns, the milking being done to order at the door. The higher classes in Porto Rico are very cultivated. The young ladies do embroidery that often gives the impression of steel engraving, it is so fine. They are accomplished in music and are fine pianists. The open-hearted confidence with which the people have received our rule is very touching. In Ponce the inhabitants wanted not only all the town ofiicials appointed entirely from Americans, but the policemen as well. They don't know all about us yet. We must live up to the standard they have set for us. 96. Porto Rican Interior. In the inland towns the houses are both quaint and pleasing, the white walls partly covered with moss or vines, with deep- set doorways, cool inner courts, and picturesque interiors. It is a noble acquisition, we shall have in Porto Rico. Its great value as a strategic center will be seen when we remem- ber that it is about 1,500 miles from New York, which is half the distance from Cadiz, Spain, and a thousand miles from Key West. It lies, in fact, at the very point which we should have selected as a coaling station had we had unrestricted choice of location. It is so exceedingly beautiful and productive that Colum- bus spent considerable time in the endeavor to convince Queen Isabella that he had here found the original Garden of Eden. The broad valleys stretching along the shore and back to- 26 ward the hills are covered with vast waving billows of sugar- cane, bordered by the tall ranks 97. Cocoanut Palms. of the cocoanut palm, which grows for nothing, attains a height of 60 or 80 feet, lives, it is said, a hundred years, bears a hundred cocoanuts annually, and has, besides, a hundred other uses for man. Bananas grow everywhere ; oranges and lemons. Two hundred millions of bananas are annually shipped, and three million cocoanuts. Ascending toward the mountains, we find the home of the cinnamon tree, clove and coffee, vast estates, vanilla and nutmeg. But it is from the height of about a thousand feet to the mountain tops we have the glorious vegetation of the " high woods." Tree ferns wave their beautiful lace-like leaves, mountain palms thrust their fronds through green masses of air plants, and gigantic gum trees tower aloft, wreathed in mile-long lianas. Delightful will be the experiences in climb- ing its mountains, since Porto Rico forms a part of our own country. Its beautiful stalactite caves, its springs of hot and mineral waters, its streams filled with rare fish — all are awaiting the tourist and explorer, as its people and resources await the energizing touch of our civilization. In turning to the Philippines we are reminded that America now extends to the coasts of Asia. 98. Map of the Pacific. It requires a study of the map to realize that the Hawaiian Islands lie about directly west of Cuba, ^outJiwest from San Francisco. The Carolines, along the lower edge of the map and the Philippines, in the southwest corner, are further south, very near the Equator, which will be represented by the lower edge line. They lie about west of the northern end of South America. Honolulu is two thousand one hundred miles from San 27 Francisco; Manila is four thousand nine hundred miles farther. An ocean voyage of nearly a month 99. Ocean View. from San Francisco makes the seven thousand miles to Manila. An American will hesitate too much to place himself so far from home to think very seriously of living there. It is leaving " God's Country," when you steam out of San Francisco bay for the easy-going life of the Oriental Philippines. But the long voyage at length is ended and the steamer which has brought you from Hongkong has en- tered the Bay of Manila, the scene of Dewey's great victory, whose achievements are exceeded only by the modesty of his dispatches concerning them. 100. Dewey. The Bay stretches before you twenty-seven miles wide and one hundred and twenty in circumference. It takes some ^ time to cross it, but in front of you, as you advance, is Manila, with her white churches and towers backed against the tall blue-velvet mountains. By the victory of our fleet one more of the world's side- tracked capitals has been pulled from obscurity, and the average citizen is no longer in doubt as to whether Manila is spelt with one 1 or two, and locates it somewhat more ac- curately than as floating around indefinitely in the south seas. 10 1 . Suspension Bridge Across the Pasig River. As we ascend the Pasig, t)n both sides of which the city is built, we maybe somewhat amazed to see the thoroughness of the bridge constructions that span it. This is the Sus- pension Bridge, but there are five or six others ; for we must remember that Manila is a city larger than Washington, with a population of 300,000, with all the varied activities so large a place demands. 102. Stone Bridge Across the Pasig. 28 The old city of Manila, the walled city spoken of in Dewey's dispatches, is surrounded by ancient ramparts on which are mounted antiquated bronze cannon. This im- posing bridge connects the business portion with the walled city. 103. Business Street, Manila. A walk through the principal business street dispels the illusion that the place is the isolated village we in our sim- plicity formerly supposed. Everybody of any consequence has his carriage in this Eastern metropolis, though the horses are all ponies, some of them exceedingly diminutive. 104. Business Street No. 2. The same street, looking in the opposite direction. The carriages are lined up at the side of the street and on the sidewalks are the business men in their white muslin suits. There are street-car lines, in equipping which American capital and enterprise, as usual, have come to the front, a Philadelphia firm having furnished the cars for one of the roads. 105. A Suburban Street. A suburban street is not quite so impressive, but it is many times cooler, and so are these slightly constructed native houses, with their thick thatch and thin, well ventilated walls. The only trouble about them is that they burn so readily. Manila fires are a constant occurrence, and are usu- ally stopped only by a vacant piece of ground or a grove of palms. 106. Procession of Natives. In this procession the natives are dressed in their best for the festive occasion of Good Friday. The peculiar fashion of wearing the shirt, shown in the picture, always distin- guishes the native Malay and the half-breed from the for- eigner. The viands carried are for a feast at the conclusion of the parade in the house of a prominent native. 29 Speaking of Good Friday, it will be appropriate to remark that the natives have taken very readily to the 107. Philippine Church. ceremonies of the church. The feast days are especially ap- preciated, and have been made by them as numerous as possible. The churches built by the Spanish are often very massive and imposing. The Philippines are a very numerous group. Their num- ber is estimated at twelve hundred or more. They are the pickets of the Pacific, standing guard at the entrance of trade with the millions of China, Korea, the Malay peninsula, and countless islands to the south and west. 108. Map of the Philippines. Their total area is as great as that of New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and Delaware taken together, and their population is about nine millions. Many of the islands are very large, while there are count- less small ones. Luzon, the largest, on which Manila is sit- uated, equals in size the State of Ohio, or that of Cuba and Porto Rico combined, with a population of 5,000,000. The Island of Mindanao, to the south, is nearly as large. 109. Mountain Scenery, Luzon. The island-studded lakes, swift-flowing mountain streams, and horizon bounded by lofty crests make such scenery as is nowhere else found. Gold mining and gold washing have been followed for centuries, in their primitive way, by the natives. Every brook that flows down from the mountains pans out the color of gold. Not so romantic, but equally important is it, that iron and coal are found. 110. Stream and Tropical Growth. The orange, lemon, banana, and strange delicious fruits without name or number — all grow wild in the Philippine woods. The forests abound in precious woods — ebony, sapan- wood, iron-wood, mahogany. There is no end to the hard woods, and the beautiful polished floors of Manila are a wonder. The unique product for which the islands have become commercially famous, and which it is found impossible to produce elsewhere, is the so-called Manila hemp, from which Manila rope and paper are made. It is the fibre of a species of banana or plantain, which grows to the height of 15 or 20 feet. 111. Philippine Ox-carts. Philippine ox-carts are rather clumsy arrangements, and with their curious thatched tops resemble small movable houses. It is difficult to convey any proper idea of the exceeding fertility of the soil. Agriculture is carried on in the most primitive fashion. 112. Plowing Scene. You will see the farmer using a bent stick with an iron prod for a plow. Philippine methods are three hundred years behind the times. Think of sugar-cane crushed by several hundred men wdth clubs, when simple machinery would do it so much better and cheaper. Those peculiar dish-shaped hats worn by the plowman and his family are quite a necessary and effective protection from the intense heat of the sun. This is the carabou or water ox of the East, so called from its delight in wallowing in the water. Sugar is a great product. 113. Sugar-drying Ground. This is a sugar-drying ground. Those are squares of sugar spread out on cloths. Here, too, you have a typical view of the city in the background ; vacant spaces and tree- covered spots are numerous. Many of the natives of the Philippines are uncivilized or only partially civilized. In Mindanao, the most southerly 31 and second largest island, are the savage Moros, with whom the Spaniards have been constantly at war. In the moun- tains of the interior of the other islands are the Negritos, 114. Negrito Group. " Little black men." The}^ are the aboriginal race, though the Malays show more or less a blending with them. The Negritos are a small people, wandering in bands through the forests, sleeping wherever darkness finds them, subsisting upon fruits and what game they can secure by bow and arrows. 115. Group and Buildings in Outskirts of Manila. However lacking in intelligence the Malays of the Philip- pines may be, they cannot, even in an uncivilized state, be classed as savages. The Tagals of Luzon, the island on which Manila stands, of whom this is a representative group, are a copper-colored race, and, like all of the Malay family, short of stature. These Tagals are the most advanced and influential element in the whole population of the islands. They are charmingly courteous, honest, orderly, and hospitable, taking life happily and easily. The natives have wonderful musical talent. A native Malay will take a tin oil can and from it construct a horn upon which he discourses the choicest music. From many a frail little house of Nipa palm in Manila will come the tones of a piano, and sweet sounds are everywhere ; while, of the bands constantly heard on the Luneta, the public pleasuring place of the city, none are finer in the world. Who shall say that these people are not susceptible of high devel- opment under the best infiuences of civilization ? 116. Natives Pounding Corn. The Malays in their barbarous state are possessed, however, of fierce characteristics. Thus feuds between the tribes were formerly constant and deadly, and head-hunting on the part of those at enmity was so common as to make these islands a land of terror — characteristics still retained by the untutored and uncivilized tribes. With reference as to how incomplete 32 has been Spain's mastery of tbe islands, there are tribes which not only have never recognized the Spanish rule, but have never even heard of it and know nothing of all the turmoil of the white races on the edges of their archipelago. 117. Native Women Weaving Cloth. Native women weaving cloth from the fiber of the pine- apple plant. The fabric, which is called pina cloth, is a most beautiful one, superior to silk. The w^eaving is so deli- cate a process and the woof is so exquisitely fine that some- times a few inches only result from a whole day's work. In dress the most beautiful and brilliant colors are worn by all classes. 118. Manila Native Woman and Child. Manila native woman of the better class and her little daughter. This style of dress is universal, and the Manila lady, rich or poor, is very adept in managing her train, whether made of silk or pink calico. They are very fond of the bright colors. 119. Manila Native Ladies. These are Manila native ladies. It is difficult to do justice to their native grace and refinement of courtesy and bearing or to describe the elegance and beauty of their apparel. The bodice of the costume is of the costly pina cloth, above described. 120. Mestizo Lady. There are a great many Chinese in the islands, who have intermarried with the natives. The resulting mixed race, a very influential one, is known as Mestizo — that is, half- breed — and forms a large proportion of the merchants and landed proprietors. A Mestizo lady. The interiors of the Chinese houses are often very luxurious. One Chinese half- breed in Manila is said to be worth three million dollars. 121. Native Criminals. 33 Native criminals, arrested by native constable. Probably the crime is nothing more than that of not having paid all the tax collector has asked for. You see that the constable carries his weapons of correction and defense. His short top coat over the long white one is his badge of office. 122. Cock Fighting. Cock fighting may be said to be the national sport of the Philippines. Every native owns his rooster, carries him around with him, bets on him, and pays tax on him. Just as in Spain Sunday is the great day for bull fighting, so is it here the day of days for the cock fight. The roosters are held so that they may not hurt each other too much. The birds are much petted, and in general show an amiable dis- position, except to their fellows. We see here again the white muslin suits worn by every one in the Philippines. 123. Rural Scene. The climate of the Philippines, of course, is very warm, lying, as they do, so near the equator, yet it is only a few degrees hotter than it is in Washington during the warmest months. Of course, there is the rainy season, taking the climate in Manila, which lasts from August to December. From November to March there are five months of pleasant temperature. April is hot, May and June still hotter, the am- bitious mercury climbing far up into the nineties each day, but in the evening there arc cooling sea-breezes which make the night sbearable. During the heated term the whole city av/akens between four and five and completes the work of the day before eight. Between 124. Another Rural Scene. the hours of twelve and five in the afternoon the deserted and silent streets are like those of a city of the dead. No one stirs abroad except by absolute compulsion. At sundown the merchants open their heavy store doors, the streets sud- denly start into life, the principal meal of the day is served, and the whole population goes out for a walk. 34 Of course snakes and all kinds of tropical pests abound. Great serpents, of a harmless variety, 12 or 14 feet long, are hawked about in the streets for sale, as rat-catchers, and most householders keep one or two. Ants are especially trouble- some, ready always to eat either your house or your dinner. 125. Palace of Governor General. The summer palace of the Governor General furnishes an example of the beautiful residences owned by many of the wealthy inhabitants of Manila, both native and foreign, which are as varied in style and arrangement as taste and nationality. Foreigners, however, of the white race are few. There are not eight thousand Spaniards resident in all the Philippines. In Manila there are one hundred and fifty Germans, ninety English, and, before the war, only four Americans. 126. Native Village on Lake Shore. East of the Philippines, stretching for a distance of 2,000 miles, lie the hundreds of delightful islands known as the Carolines. North of them are the Ladrones. Over both Spain has claimed sovereignty. On the Carolines American missionaries have been espe- cially successful in civilizing and educating the natives. It is here that the missionary ship, The Morning Star, built by the contributions of the Sabbath-school children of America, has done such efficient service ; but the arrival of the Span- ish men-of-war, bearing convicts and a lawless soldiery, has 127. A Native of the Carolines. constantly undone the remarkable advancement on which the natives had entered. The missionaries w^ere driven en- tirely away from Ponape, the island where the progress of the natives had been most marked, and nothing can esti- mate the pernicious results of the Spanish occupation. The presence of the Spaniards in the Carolines, as everywhere, has been a curse. To the Christians of America, in the best 85 of all senses, the sovereignty of these beautiful islands be- longs. A native of the Carolines. Following now, not immediately, but at intervals, during the next few minutes, as we continue, will be some views of Philippine life and landscape, which will readily explain themselves — 128. Spanish Arch. a Spanish arch spanning a Philippine brook, native home- stead scenes and two restful views of the beautiful Pasig as it flows down to Manila. Spain has effectually prohibited any kind of Protestant missionary work in the Philippines. She has placed every possible obstruction in the way of any sort of development, in her effort to exclude from the islands under her control all commerce and enterprise other than her own. Official robbery has been practiced openly, unblushingly, in the highest as in the lowest places. Good government has been the last thing thought of — not thought of at all. Oppression in the Philippines has been something fearful. It has been even worse than in Cuba. There have been poll-taxes, taxes on every kind of property, taxes on car- riages at three dollars a wheel, taxes on all mercantile trans- actions, taxes on every kind of amusement, taxes on 129. Native Homestead. marriages, taxes on funerals. In some parts of the islands the native must carry his tax receipts constantly with him ; if found without them, he has been liable to arrest and punishment. For non-payment the penalties, after confis- cation of property, have been whipping and imprisonment ; or worse still, those unable to pay have been shipped as conscripts to die in the savage wars with the fierce Moros, in Mindanao, or they have been deported far from family and friends to remote government plantations, and there con- demned to slavery. Is it any wonder that a peaceable and inoffensive people 36 were driven to desperation, and that rebellion in the islands has been smoldering and blazing constantly ? 130. Road and Homestead. "What is it the 'Filipinos' want? Nothing much, save to be left alone by the tax-gatherer ; to be free to work or not to work ; to know that the results of their enterprise will be theirs and not somebody else's; to knock cocoanuts from a tree for the morning meal, or to shake the fruit from 10,000 trees and export the dried product to foreign countries." The Spaniards attempted, with merciless severity, to put down the insurrections. It was deliberately agreed in coun- cil by the Spanish officers at Manila that the insurgents should be given no quarter ; that massacre and extermination should be the policy. Thousands have been arrested and shot on suspicion. In 1896 there were in the city of Manila eight hundred execu- tions in a single month. Public executions of " suspects," prominently, joyously announced, have always been made 131. Upper Pasig. occasions of general holiday by the Spaniards in Manila. The deadly work was usually performed on the Luneta, in the cool of the morning, so that the Spanish public and gentry might attend. Hundreds of elegantly dressed ladies and gentlemen would " grace " the occasion with their pres- ence, many of the most fashionable coming in their car- riages, the ladies standing in their conveyances so as not to miss any part of the ghastly show. With miserable marks- manship, very seldom would one volley prove effective. Only after three, four, or even five volleys would the horrible sufferings of the condemned be over. 132. Native Homestead Scene. With the announcement that all were dead, there was music by the band — gay, triumphal music — while the de- lighted lady spectators waved their handkerchiefs, and the 37 city and the ships in the harbor, decorated with flags and streamers, presented a gala-day appearance. On one occasion, when a mere boy of eighteen was exe- cuted, after ineffectual volleys, while the poor fellow was writhing in agony a gun muzzle was ordered to be placed in his mouth. By the discharge the head was practically blown off". Spain is the world's great malefactor — the monster among nations. Should we have returned the Philippines to the tender mercies of the Spanish rule ? To the conscience of a Chris- tian and enlightened nation there is but one answer. We can afford to take no other than the broad world-view. We dare not be narrow or mercenary. Our country is, and is to become more and more, the great peaceful civilizing influ- ence of the world. It is obligator}^ upon us to accept the full mission of commercial development for which the gates of the East are opening. The ages of all the future depend upon us. We shall hold the Philippines, but in trust and as a means by which we may render still grander service to the oppressed and unenlightened everywhere, recognizing that new occasions teach new duties, and shrinking not from the weighty responsibilities which have been laid upon us. 133. The Pasig. The world is much smaller than wlien Washington read his farewell address. It is an age of commerce. The center of trade is the center of empire. There is soon to be such an upheaval in Asiatic waters as the world has never seen ; and in the disintegration of the Great Chinese Empire the God in History intends that we, the representatives of progress, shall be in evidence. It requires no prophetic eye to discern that our great Re- public is to lead the mighty coalition of all English-speaking peoples — the empire of thought and conscience and right — yet to belt the globe. Columbia becomes a light to the world, to guide the nations to heights of destiny as yet undreamed. 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