DA {,•70 UtS8 HBHIII mm iillll H ill! lilfl HiilHIi H 1 IHr 1 Hi mm Hi MBfflffttHttffl siii! m H KlliSl 81 PlWtt HHMMh FJI&BsIni UBS BhSfifflMffitfli HjI^HWiBmhBmihmiI [IfflM |{||fjj| IjH^H laffiainroK OTLEY'S GUIDE TO THE LAKES, &c. The Visiters of the delightful scenery of the Lake District of Cum- berland and Westmorland, will derive considerable assistance and plea- sure, and the general reader much amusement, from a neat and per- spicuous description of this district, by Jonathan Otley, of Keswick.— The work is accompanied by an accurate small sheet Map, and the whole has a character of originality, not often met with in similar works. Monthly Magazine, July, 1823. THE LIBRART Of CONGRESS BERML mom AUG 16 194* liriEicfeioii PRINTED BY ARTHUR FOSTER, KIRKBY LONSDALE. KESWICTS ' v v...ji.V',J;^-'- ■-- -•-•■■ ■ 7 -Engraved. byX&GJttenzies.JEdziiT A CONCISE DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGLISH LAKES, AND ADJACENT MOUNTAINS: WITH CKewral Directions to ©ourigtg ; OBSERVATIONS ON THE MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT ON METEOROLOGY ; THE FLOATING ISLAND IN DERWENT LAKE ; AND THE BLACK-LEAD MINE IN BORROWDALE; AND AN ACCOUNT OP AN EXCURSION TO THE TOP OF SKIDDAW. BY JONATHAN OTLEY. 11 THIRD EDITION. KESWICK: PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR. BY JOHN RICHARDSON, ROYAL EXCHANGE, LONDON AND ARTHUR FOSTER, KIRKBY LONSDALE. 1827. BASICHE3131B.- .LiOs PREFACE. Before this little manual made its appearance, the public had been supplied with Guides to the Lakes in various forms ; but wholly devoted to the picturesque appearance of the country, in exclusion of other impor- tant considerations ; besides that some of them, sufficiently accurate at the time they were written, have been render- ed less so by the alterations in the roads and other im- provements which have since taken place. It was therefore suggested, that a short description of the several Lakes and contiguous Mountains, with suit- able directions to conduct the tourist through the most eligible paths for viewing the varied scenery, and at the same time affording some information on the structure and component materials of these interesting regions- would be acceptable ; and the ready sale of two editions has proved that the expectation was not unfounded. A new Map, on a somewhat enlarged scale, has been engraven expressly for the third edition, which is now offered to the public, with such improvements as have been judged likely to render it a more useful companion, without making it either more eumbrous or expensive. CONTENTS. The Lakes . . . . . 7 Windermere .... 8 Ullswater .... 11 Brother Water — Hawes Water 13 Coniston Water 14 Eathwaite Water 15 Grasmere 16 Rydal Water — Thirlmere ir Derwent .... 18 Bassenthwaite 22 Buttermere — Cruramock 23 Lowes Water 24 Ennerdale .... 25 Wast Water 26 The Tarns 29 Th e Rivers. — Derwent — Greta — Cocker— Ellen Eamont — Lowther — Eden — Petterill — Caldew Lune — Kent — Sprint — Mint — Brathay- -Ro- thay — Leven — Crake — Duddon — Esk— - ■Irt— Mite — Bleng — Lissa — Enn — Calder . 37 The Waterfalls. — Lowdore — Barrow- -Scale Force — Airey Force — Stock Gill — Rydal Falls Dungeon Gill Skelwith Force Colwith— Birker— Stanley Gill— Sour Milk Gill . 41 The Mountains Skiddaw .... 44 Saddleback — Carrock Fell . 50 Helvellyn 51 Scawfell and the Pikes , 54 VI Bowfell— Gable Pillar — Grasmoor — Grisedale Pike Black Combe— Coniston Fell Fairfield Langdale Pikes High Street— Wansfell Pike Loughrigg Fell Bearings and Height of Mountains Crags Antiquities .... Stages in the Lake District Excursions amongst the Lakes General Directions Lancaster to Windermere Milnthorp to Windermere Ambleside Ambleside to Keswick Penrith to Ulls water to Hawes Water Carlisle to Keswick Keswick Round Derwent Lake Keswick to Borrowdale — — to Butter mere to Wast Water - to Bassenthwaite - to Ullswater Season for visiting the Lakes On the Geology of the Lake District On Meteorology The Floating Island in Derwent Lake The Black Lead Mine in Borrowdale Excursion to the top of Skiddaw DESCRIPTION THE ENGLISH LAKES THE LAKES. X he District of the Lakes comprehends a part of each of the three Counties, Cumberland, West- morland, and Lancashire, which form their junc- tion at a point upon the mountain Wrynose, near the road side. Lancashire is separated from Cumberland by the river Duddon, from West- morland by the stream falling into Little Lang- dale ; and the latter county is parted from Cum- berland by the mountain ridge leading from thence to Dunmail Raise. Windermere Lake is said to belong to Westmorland, at least its islands are claimed by that county, although the whole of its western and part of its eastern shores belong to Lancashire. Coniston and Esthwaite Lakes, with Blelham and the tarns of Coniston, are wholly in Lancashire. Grasmere, Rydal, and Hawes Wa- ter, with several tarns, lie in Westmorland. The head of Ullswater is in Westmorland, but below B 8 WINDERMERE. Glencoin it constitutes the boundary between that and Cumberland. Derwent, Bassenthwaite, But- termere, Ennerdale, and Wast Water, are in Cumberland. Before this country became so much the resort of strangers, the word Lake was little known to the native inhabitants ; but to the ancient termi- nation mei-e, Water was usually superadded, as Windermere- Water, Grasmere- Water. Windermere is the largest of the English Lakes, being upwards of ten miles in length, mea- sured upon the water ; by the road on its banks considerably more. Its greatest breadth is about a mile, and depth nearly forty fathoms. Hav- ing given its name to an adjoining parish, it was found necessary to add the word " water" or " lake, 1 ' by way of distinction. It is situated in a country beautifully diversified by sloping hills, woods, and cultivated grounds, with lofty moun- tains in the distance. Its banks are adorned with buildings, which combine better with the scenery of this, than they would with that of the more northern lakes. A strait near the middle of the lake, has a public ferry-boat, on the way between Kendal and Hawkshead. Windermere is enriched by numerous islands ; but their effect is lessened by being grouped in a narrow part of the lake. WINDERMERE. 9 On the north of the ferry is the great island, call- ed Belle Isle, belonging to Mr. Curwen, (on which he has a house.) It contains upwards of thirty acres, and has a gravel walk on its margin, of nearly two miles in circuit ; on which strangers arc freely permitted to walk. Besides this, are Crow- Holm, two Lilly of the Valley-Holms, Thompsons- Holm, House-Holm, Hen-Holm, Lady-Holm, and Rough-Holm. To the south of the Ferry are Berkshire-Island, Ling-Holm, Grass-Holm, Silver-Holm, and Blake-Holm. Windermere is stocked with a variety of fish, of which char are the most esteemed. Char be- ing taken by nets in the winter months, are pot- ted, and sent to different parts of the kingdom. The principal feeders of the lake are the Rothay, having its source in Grasmere ; and the Brathay, issuing from Langdale. These two rivers unite their streams about half a mile before entering the lake ; and a remarkable circumstance is, that the trout and char, both leaving the lake about the same time to deposite their spawn, separate them- selves into the two different rivers; the trout making choice of the Rothay, and the char tak- ing the Brathay. Some would like to commence their survey of Windermere at Newby Bridge, and have the scenery to unfold itself as they advance. Others 10 WINDERMERE. will be more gratified by the prospect bursting upon them at once in full expansion, as it does from the elevated ground, on either of the roads leading from Kendal towards Bowness or Amble- side. From some parts of the lake, the summit of Helvellyn may be just seen in the distance. — When observed from the south of Low Wood, the Pikes on Scawfell (the highest land in Eng- land) appear to the left of Bowfell ; between which last and Langdale Pikes, are seen Great End, and Gable, guarding the pass at Sty-Head; and a peep at Skiddaw is obtained from the guide-post, on the Cartmel road a mile and a half south of Bow- ness. All the way from two miles south of Bowness to the head of the lake, the views are excellent, and every rising ground affords something new in the combination. About Troutbeck Bridge, the mountains from Coniston Old Man to Langdale Pikes appear to great advantage. — The view from the Station-house, above the Ferry, is much ad- mired. — A walk or a ride along the sequestered road from the Ferry towards Ambleside, will be found agreeable to the contemplative mind ; and during a voyage on the higher part of the lake (winch ought not to be omitted) a variety of both near and distant scenes presented to the view in delightful succession. And as the boat pro- ULLSWATER. 11 Ceeds from the landing place at Low Wood, a person previously acquainted with the distant mountains will feel a pleasure in observing how the highest Pike on Scawfell seems to march forth from behind Bowfell ; and the Gable, from be- hind Langdale Pikes. At Newby Bridge, on the foot of the lake, is a small inn, where boats, post-horses, and chaise are kept. Another, at the Ferry on the western side, where a pair of post-horses may also be had. And at Bowness, Low Wood, and Ambleside, are spacious inns, furnished with every requisite accommodation. Ullswater ranks next in point of size, being nine miles long, but rather wanting in breadth : yet on account of its winding form, the dispropor- tion is not so much observed. It has the great- est average depth of any of the lakes, being in many places from 20 to 35 fathoms. The coun- try about its foot is rather tame ; but its head is situated among some of the most majestic moun- tains, which are intersected by several glens or small vallies ; and their sides embellished with a variety of native wood, and rock scenery. Three rocky islets ornament the upper reach of the lake; they are called Cherry-Holm, Wall- Holm, and House-Holm, the last of which, though VZ ULLSWATEE. houseless, is a fine station for viewing the sur- rounding scenery. — This lake abounds with trout which are sometimes caught of very large size ; here are also some char, but they are neither nu- merous nor of the best quality. Large shoals of a peculiar kind of fish are met with, called here the skelly ; and great quantities of eels are taken in the river Eamont, below Pooley Bridge, as they migrate from the lake in autumn. The only carriage road lies on the north-west side of the water, sometimes on a level with its surface and commanding an unobstructed view ; at other times deeply shaded in ancient woods, permitting only occasional glimpses of the lake ; but on the opposite side the pedestrian will be well repaid for a ramble along Placefell and BirL- fell ; where from different parts of the foot-path the views are truly picturesque ; and if he aspire to more extensive prospects, they may be attained by climbing the mountain to a certain height ; where the lower extremity of the lake may be seen over the beautiful grounds of Hallsteads. A wooded hill called Dunmallard stands as a centi- nel at the foot of the lake ; it is formed of a con- glomerated mass by which the water seems to be embanked. There is a comfortable inn at Pooley Bridge, on the foot of the lake ; and another at Patter- BROTHER WATER HAWES WATER. 13 dale near its head ; both of which furnish boats upon the lake : and the long wanted medium of land conveyance is now in part supplied : horses and jaunting cars can be had at Pooley Bridge ; and a post chaise and horses at Patterdale. Brother Water — so called from the circum- stance of two brothers having been drowned to- gether, by the breaking of the ice — is a small lake, situate in that part of Patterdale called Harts- hope, on the road leading to Ambleside. Hawes Water is about three miles in length and half a mile in breadth ; its head is encom- passed by a grand assemblage of mountains, and its eastern side is screened by finely wooded rocks : the western side exhibits here and there a little cultivation, and a few farm houses sheltered by trees. At Measand, a low cultivated promontory projects into the lake, so as almost to divide it into two parts. A branch projecting from High Street stretches in a narrow ridge towards the chapel of Mardale, and has given to one part of the vale the name of Riggindale. Beyond this the valley becomes more secluded ; yet it affords a place of entertainment at Mardale Green. There are various mountain passes by which Hawes Water may be approached on foot, and a 14 COXISTON WATER. way on horseback through Long-sleddale has been described, with a high degree of colouring by West and Housman; but, in planning an excur- sion, several things are to be taken into consider- ation ; as, what kind of conveyance the road will admit of, how that conveyance is to be supplied, and at what places refreshment may be obtained : there is no public house in Long-sleddale, and the one in Kentmere is of the smallest class ; so that it will generally be found most convenient, to visit Hawes Water from Penrith, returning either thither, or to Pooley Bridge, or in some cases to Shap. Lowther Castle, the magnificent seat of the Earl of Lonsdale, may also be visited in this route. Coniston Water, called in some old books Thurston Water, is a lake of considerable magnitude, being six miles in length ; but want- ing in that agreeable flexure of shores so condu- cive to the beauty of a lake. Near its foot how- ever, are some fine wooded, rocky promontories ; which from certain points add greatly to the pros- pect. It has two small islands, but they are placed too near the shore to contribute much to its im- portance. As the principal mountains lie on the western side, and at its head, the best views are in conse- ESTHWAITE WATER. 15 quence obtained in a progress from its foot, on the eastern side ; or from a boat on its surface : but those who have leisure may be gratified by the variety afforded in an excursion quite round the lake. Its greatest depth is twenty-seven fathoms. It is well supplied with trout and char, the latter are larger here than in any other lake ; they are taken by nets in winter, and it was formerly sup- posed they could not be tempted by any kind of bait ; however, of late several have been taken by angling, with a hook baited in a peculiar manner with a minnow. The inn, at Waterhead, stands close on the margin of the lake, and furnishes parties with pleasure boats, and here a chaise and pair of post horses may also be had. Esthwaite Water is a small placid lake, nearly two miles in length, and distinguished by a fine swelling peninsula, which reaches far into the water from the western side. It is situated near the ancient little town of Hawkshead, in a beautiful open valley, which is crowned with gen- tle eminences, and decorated with an agreeable composition of houses, fields, and trees. A Floating Island on this lake, or rather upon one of its appendages, has been sometimes notic- b2 16 GRASMERE. ed; but differing from one on Derwent Lake, hereafter to be described. That, rises occasion- ally from the bottom ; this, remains always upon the surface, being a piece of turfy earth, held to- gether by roots of grass and willows, and at some period forming a part of the bank against which it generally rests. From no point of view do the mountains of Langdale, Grasmere, and Rydal, appear in nobler forms, than from the side of Esthwaite Water. Grasmere Lake is not large but well form- ed ; and placed near the confines of a cultivated^ valley, which as well as the parish — takes the name of Grasmere. The island, containing about four acres of verdant pasture, forms a striking contrast to the massive wooded islands on some of the neighbouring lakes. It rises boldly from the wa- ter, in a fine swelling form ; and its smooth green surface, when spotted with grazing cattle, has a beautiful appearance. Should it, however, be thought wanting in trees, there is scarcely an is- land in Windermere or Derwent, but what could supply the deficiency. Most of the lakes, in or- der to be seen to advantage, require the progress to be made from the foot, towards the head of the lake; but Grasmere being completely encircled by mountains — this is not indispensable. The RYDAL WATER — THIRLMERE. 17 view from Dunmail Raise was much admired by Mr. Gray; others have spoken highly of that from Townhead ; and Mr. West chose his station on Dearbought hill, on the opposite side. In short, from whatever point the approach to Grasmere is made, the prospect is always pleasing. There are two good houses for the accommo- dation of travellers : the Red Lion, near the Church ; and the Swan on the Turnpike road. Rydal Water is of smaller dimensions, and formed in a more contracted part of the valley ; it receives the river flowing from Grasmere lake after a course of about half a mile. It is orna- mented by two picturesque islands, and bordered by meadows and woody grounds, surmounted by rocky mountains. The fish in Grasmere and Rydal Waters, are pike, perch, (provincially called bass,) and eels, with a few trout. Thirlmere — commonly called Leathes*' Wa- ter, from the family to whose estate it belongs ; and sometimes Wythburn Water, from the valley in which it is partly situated — lies at the fbot of the " mighty Helvellyn ;" upon the high- est level of any of the lakes, being near 500 feet above the sea ; it is upwards of two miles and a 18 DERWENT LAKE, half in length, and intersected by several rocky promontories; it is divided into an upper and lower lake, and over a strait a picturesque wooden bridge leads to Armboth House. The depth of this lake, which has been reported to be very great, has not been found to exceed eighteen fa- thoms. A wooded island, of half an acre, lies near the shore, on the lower or northern part of the lake ; and the surface of the water being of late somewhat lowered by opening its outlet, a small rock in the upper part has become more conspi- cuous. Travellers are commonly satisfied with a sight of this lake from the road ; but those who have leisure may obtain better views of the lower and finer part of the lake, from different stations in the grounds near Dalehead House ; and finer still from the other side of the water. Derwent Lake, near Keswick, is of the most agreeable proportions. In breadth it exceeds any of the neighbouring lakes, being near a mile and a half; although its length is little more than three miles. Lakes of greater length generally extend too far from that mountain scenery, which is so conducive to their importance ; but Derwent Lake appears entirely encircled ; and visitors are at a loss which to admire most, the broken rocky DERWENT LAKE. 19 mountains of Borrowdale on the one hand, or the smooth flowing lines of Newlands on the other ; while the majestic Skiddaw closes up the view to the north. The islands are of a more proportionate size, and disposed at better distance than those on any other lake. The largest, called Lord's Island, contains about six acres, now entirely covered with wood. It is situated near the shore, on which account probably it was selected for the residence of the family of Derwentwater ; but the house has long been in ruins, and nothing now remains but the foundation. The Vicar's Isle, belonging to General Peachy, contains about five acres and a half, beautifully laid out in pleasure grounds, interspersed with a variety of trees, and crowned with a house in the centre. For some years it was called Pock- lington's Island, while it belonged to a gentleman of that name ; and is sometimes by way of pre- eminence called Derwent Isle. One nearer the middle of the lake is called St. Herbert's Isle, from being the residence of that holy man. According to the Venerable Bede, he was contemporary with St. Cuthbert, and died about A. D. 687. It appears that the anniversary of his death was by the Bishop of the diocese enjoined to be celebrated in religious offices 20 DERWENT LAKE. upon this spot, several centuries afterward. Some remains of what is said to have been his cell are still to be seen among the trees with which the island is covered. Twenty years since, a small grotto or fishing cot was built by the late Sir Wilfred Lawson, of Brayton House, to whose successor the island now belongs. A smaller island, called Rampsholm, is also covered with wood. This and Lord's Isle — be- ing part of the late Lord Derwentwater's seques- trated estate — belong to Greenwich Hospital. There are other small islets; as Otter Isle, situated in a bay near the head of the lake, the views from which have been much admired. A piece of rock, called Tripotholm, and two others known by the name of Lingholms. Besides these permanent islands, an occasional one is sometimes observed, called the Floating Island : being a piece of earth, which at uncer- tain intervals of time rises from the bottom to the surface of the lake ; but still adhering by its sides to the adjacent earth, is never removed from its place. Within the last twenty-six years it has emerged seven times ; remaining upon the sur- face for longer or shorter periods. In a succeed- ing part of this work the discussion of this subject will be resumed at greater length. Another peculiarity has been attributed to this DERWEtfT LAKE. 21 lake in what is called the Bottom wind : which has been described as an agitation of the water occurring when no wind can be felt on any part of the lake. It has been supposed to originate at the bottom of the water ; and some associating this with the last mentioned phenomenon, have ascribed both to those subterranean convulsions by which earthquakes are produced. Although it be admitted, that the waves are sometimes greater than could be reasonably expected, from any wind which can be perceived at the time ; yet it may be doubted whether they are ever formed when no wind is stirring : and if such a term as " Bottom wind" must still be retained, I think it ought to be referred to the bottom of the atmosphere, rather than the bottom of the lake. The depth of Derwent Lake does not in any part exceed fourteen fathoms : a great portion of it scarcely one fourth of that measure. It is supplied chiefly from Borrowdale, and forms a reservoir for the water, which in heavy rains pours down the steep mountains on every side; by which means its surface is often raised six or seven feet ; and in an extraordinary case has been known to rise a perpendicular height of eight feet, above its lowest water mark. At such times the mea- dows are overflowed, all the way between this lake and Bassenthwaite. Its surface being large J5» BASSENTHWAITE LAKE. in proportion to its depth, causes it to be sooner cooled down to the freezing point ; and it fre- quently affords a fine field for the skaiter. In January 1814, the ice attained the thickness of ten inches. The fish of this lake are trout, pike, perch, and eels. The trout, which are very good, are taken by angling, in the months of April and May ; the pike and perch during the whole of summer. It would be superfluous to enter into a descrip- tion or enumeration of the different views on this lake. Many attempts have been made to de- scribe them — but they must be seen to be duly appreciated. Parties navigating the lake may be landed upon the different islands, and also to view the cascades at Barrow and Lowdore : at the latter place is a public-house where a cannon is kept for the echo, which on a favourable opportunity is very fine ; but as Don Manuel says, " English echoes ap- pear to be the most expensive luxuries in which a traveller can indulge." Bassenthwaite Lake is of somewhat greater length than Derwent, but of less breadth, and without islands. Being further from the moun- tains, it is not viewed with the same interest as some other lakes. Its western side is rather too BUTTERMERE LAKE CRUMMOCK LAKE. 23 uniformly wooded, the eastern has a greater breadth of cultivation, on which side are some fine bays and promontories ; but here the road recedes too far from the lake to exhibit it to advantage. However tourists, who have leisure for a ride or a drive of eighteen miles round this lake, may obtain some pleasing views ; especially from the foot of the lake, and from some points in Wy- thop woods. This lake is of less depth than Derwent : pike and perch are the principal fish ; salmon pass through it, to deposite their spawn in the rivers Derwent and Greta, but are seldom met with in the lake. Buttermere Lake, situated in the valley of that name, is nearly encompassed by superb rocky mountains. It is about a mile and a quarter in length, scarcely half a mile in breadth, and fifteen fathoms deep. Tourists visiting Buttermere, by way of Borrowdale, pass along the side of this lake ; those who travel in carriages generally con- tent themselves with the view of it from a hill near the village. The distance between this and Crummock lake, is about three quarters of a mile, comprising some excellent arable land. Crummock Lake is nearly three miles in length, three quarters of a mile in breadth, and 24 LOWES WATER. twenty-two fathoms deep. It is situated between the two lofty mountains, Grasmire or Grasmoor, on the eastern, and Melbreak on the western side ; and in combination with the more distant hills, it affords some excellent views. It has three or four small islands, but they are placed too near the shore to add much to its beauty. The best general views of the lake, are from the rocky point on the eastern side, called the Hause ; and from the road between Scale Hill and Loweswater : and the views of the mountains, from the bosom of the lake> are excellent. Both these lakes are well stocked with trout and char, the latter of which are smaller in size, but perhaps not inferior in quality, to those of Windermere or Coniston. There is a comforta- ble inn at Buttermere, between the two lakes, and another at Scale Hill on the foot of Crummock ; at one of which places a boat is usually taken, as well for a survey of the scenery, as being the most convenient way of seeing the noted water-fall of Scale Force, on the opposite side of the lake. Lowes Water, a small lake of about a mile in length, has given name to the parish or cha- pelry in which it is situated. It differs from all the other lakes, in that, they generally exhibit the most interesting mountain scenery, in look- ENNERDALE LAKE. 25 ing towards the head of the lake ; this, on the contrary, is more tame towards its head, while at its foot the mountains appear of bolder forms. It is not the difference between one piece of water and another, but the endless variety of scenery with which they are associated, that gives to every lake its peculiar character. Lowes Water, viewed from the end of Melbreak, exhibits a sweet rural landscape, the cultivated slopes being ornamented with neat farm houses : but taking the view in an opposite direction the lake makes a middle dis- tance to a combination of mountains scarcely to be equalled. Ennerdale Lake is about two miles and a half in length, and three quarters of a mile in breadth. It is more difficult to obtain a good view of this, than any other lake. The best general view may be had near How Hall ; but, as the principal mountain scenery, with part of the lake, is seen to advantage from the road, by which tourists generally pass from Wast Water to Lowes Water and Buttermere ; few like to ex- tend the journey two or three miles for any im- provement that can be made to the view. Pedes- trians, anxious to explore the inmost recesses of the mountains, may follow the lake to its head, and after passing the sequestered farm of Giller- 26 WAST WATER. thwaite, continue their route four or five miles along the narrow dale, by the transparent stream of the Lisa, which is fed by the crystal springs issuing from the side of the mountain ; they may then make their way over one of the mountains, either by the pass called Scarf Gap, to Butter- mere, or the Black Sail, to Wasdale head : this way a horse might be taken, but it would be foun^ more troublesome than useful. This lake is well stocked with trout : here is also an inferior kind of char, which enter the river in autumn todeposite their spawn; contrary to the habits of those in the lakes of Buttermere and Crummock. There are two small public houses at Ennerdale Bridge, neither of which af- fords much accommodation to travellers. Wast Water is a lake full three miles in length and more than half a mile in breadth. Its depth, being lately sounded by some neighbouring Gentlemen, was found to be 45 fathoms ; so that its bottom must be about 1 5 fathoms below the level of the sea : and it is probably owing to its great depth in proportion to the extent of surface, that it has never been known to freeze ; as during the continuance of winter, the whole mass of water is never cooled down to its maximum density. We have before seen lakes situated at the feet of WAST WATER. 27 mountains, yet still admitting of a road, or at least a path between them ; but now we are arrived at a lake on one side of which there is not the least appearance of either. The Screes* bound the lake on the south east, and extend from near the summit of the mountain quite into the water ; so that it cannot be passed on that side without con- siderable difficulty and some danger. Roads can be cut through the rocks or formed over morasses, but through these Screes the formation of a road could hardly be effected. The mountains environing Wast Water are lofty and majestic. Looking up the lake, Yew- barrow forms a fine apex ; Kirkfell pushes for- ward its bold front on the left ; at the head of the dale the pyramidical Gable appears conspicuous ; Lingmel comes finely in view on the right, over which Scawfell and the Pikes reign preeminent ? the Hay Cock may be seen through the lateral vale of Borrowdale, and the Pillar crowns the head of the branch called Mosedale : Middlefell, running along the margin of the lake on the spec- tator's side, and the Screes on the opposite, com- plete the panorama. In short, Wast Water * Screes a provincial term signifying a profusion of loose stones, the debris of the rocks above, resting upon a declivity as steep as is possible for them to remain ; so that the least distur- bance in any part communicates a motion, somewhat between sliding and rolling, which frequently extends to a considerable distance, and takes some time before quiet is restored. %8 WAST WATER. affords many peculiarities well worth visiting once, but not sufficient to yield that encreased degree of pleasure in a second and third inspection, that would be experienced on Derwent, Ullswater or Windermere. The fish of Wast Water are chiefly trout, with which it is well stored : it also contains a few char. Boats are kept by neighbouring gentlemen for the diversion of angling ; and the appearance of the screes from the lake is magnificent. At Nether Wasdale, about a mile and a half from the foot of the lake, there are two public houses where travel- lers may have refreshment for themselves and horses : there is no other between this and Ros- thwaite in Borrowdale, a distance of fourteen miles, one third of which is very difficult moun- tain road. The verdure in the bottom of these lakes is composed chiefly of Littorella lacustris. Lobelia dortmanna, and Isoetes lacustris. In a dry summer the Shoreweed, where deserted by the wa- ter, puts forth its long and slender stamina. The Gladiole spreads its recurved radical leaves upon the bottom, and in July shoots up its long spike of delicate cardinal flowers above the water: and the Quillwort — being one of those few plants which perfect their fructification under water, — TARNS. 29 in winter has its leaves pulled up by water-fowl, to extract the seeds which lie concealed at their base. Various other aquatic plants are found in these lakes : some sheltered bays are ornamented with a profusion of water lilies, which with their broad leaves, and snow white flowers — interspers- ed with a few of golden yellow — richly bedeck the surface of the water; while the reeds and the bulrushes are waving over them with the wind. THE TARNS. There are numerous other receptacles of still water, which, being too small to merit the appel- lation of lakes, are called Tarns. When placed in a principal valley, (which however is not often the case,) they contribute little to its importance ; and being in such situations often environed with swampy ground, seem to represent the feeble remains of a once more considerable lake. But in a circular recess on the side of a vale, or on a mountain, as they are generally placed, their margins being well defined, they become more interesting. Reposing frequently at the feet of lofty precipices, and sometimes appearing as if embanked by a collection of materials excavated 30 TARNS. from the basin which they occupy ; they afford ample room for conjecture as to their mode of for- mation. Being sheltered from the winds, their surface often exhibits the finest reflections of the rocks and surrounding scenery, highly pleasing to the eye of such as view them with regard to the picturesque ; but it is more agreeable to the wishes of the angler, to see their surface ruffled by the breeze. Tarns in the Feeders of Coniston Water. — Two or three pools, between the hills on the north of Coniston Waterhead, are called simply the Tarns ; while those in the western quarter have received the more dignified appellation of Waters. Levers Water, the largest, is situated in a wide valley, between the mountains Old Man and Wetherlam. Low Water, placed on the Old Man's side, belies its name, as it occupies the highest level. Their united streams, after a suc- cession of pretty waterfalls, pass Coniston Church in their way to the lake. Gates Water, [Goats Water,] reposes on the Old Man's western side, and at the foot of the precipitous Dow Crag ; [Dove Crag.] Besides being in common with the other tarns stocked with trout, it also con- tains some char. Its stream forms the rivulet of Torver. Blind Tarn, a small reservoir of wa- TARNS. 31 ter without a stream, lies near the road to Sea- thwaite, by Walna Scar. Beacon Tarn is a small one, near the foot of the lake. Belonging to the river Duddon, is Seathwaite Tarn, separated from Levers Water, only by a narrow mountain ridge. Tarns appertaining to the river Kent. Kentmere Tarn, in the vale of Kentmere, is bor- dered by morass ; and Skeggles Water lies on the heath-clad mountain between that and Long-sled- dale ; they are neither of them possessed of any striking features. Tarns connected with Hawes Water. Small Water, rightly named, lies between Harter fell and High Street ; and is passed by a moun- tain track leading from Kentmere to Mardale, over the pass called Nan Bield. Blea Water, separated from the last by a projection of High Street, lies at the foot of a lofty rock called Blea Water Crag. Before reaching the valley of Mardale their two streams become united. Tarns in the environs of Ullswater. Hays Water is of more extended dimensions than most of those called tarns ; and is much frequented by anglers. The stream from it passes Low Harts- 32 TARNS. hope, joining that from Brother Water near the foot of the latter. Angle Tarn, lying north of the last, upon the mountain separating Patter- dale from Martindale, is one of the smaller class ; but of a curious shape, having two rocky islets and a small broken peninsula. Its stream in a quick descent, reaches the vale about half a mile fur- ther down. Grisedale Tarn, one of the larger class, lies in the junction of the three mountains Helvellyn, Seatsandal, and Fairfield. The road over the Hause, from Grasmere to Patterdale, passing the tarn, is accompanied by its stream down the vale of Grisedale ; which unites with the parent valley near the Church. Red Tarn, also of considerable extent, containing about twenty acres, is upon the highest level of any of the mountain tarns ; being upwards of two thou- sand four hundred feet above the level of the sea, little more than six hundred feet below the sum- mit of Helvellyn ; from whence into it you might almost cast a stone. -Keppel Cove Tarn is posited in a singular manner, not in the bottom of the glen, but in a kind of recess formed on one side ; it is separated from Red Tarn by a narrow mountain ridge, which branches off from Helvel- lyn and is terminated by a peak called Catsty Cam, modernized into Catchedecam ; below which the two streams unite to form the brook of Glenrid- TARNS. 33 ding. All these tarns afford good diversion for the angler ; Keppel Cove produces a bright well shapen trout : — those of Angle tarn are by some considered of superior flavour ; but when quantity as well as quality is taken into account, Hays water may perhaps be allowed the pre-eminence. Harrop Tarn, though but a small piece of wa- ter, is the principal one belonging to Thirlmere. It lies on the western side of Wythburn, and its stream, called Dob Gill, passing a few houses, joins the rivulet in the vale a little before it reaches the lake. Tarns in the tributary streams of Winder- mere. Elterwater is one of the largest of the Tarns ; and having given its name to a small hamlet in Langdale, it became necessary in speak- ing of the water itself, to add the word tarn by way of distinction. It is nearly a mile in length, and divided into three parts. By the sudden influx of water from the two Langdales, the low meadows on its margin are frequently overflowed, and rendered wet and swampy : to obviate this, great pains have lately been taken in opening its outlet ; by which means the dimensions of the water have been greatly contracted. And the fishery of trout has been nearly annihilated by the 34 TARNS. introduction of that voracious fish the pike. — — Loughrigg Tarn is a circular piece of water of about a dozen acres, environed by green meadows, intermixed with rocky woods and cultivated grounds. Seldom ruffled by winds, it displays beautiful reflections .of farm-houses, fields, and trees, surmounted by rocky steeps ; and when taken in combination with Langdale Pikes in the distance, it makes an excellent picture. Little Langdale Tarn, in the valley of that name, is one whose consequence is lessened by the swampiness of its shores. Blea Tarn, lying on the high ground between the two vales of Great and Little Langdale, has a small sequestered farm adjoining, and called by its name. A view of this piece of water is enriched by the superb appearance of Langdale Pikes. Stickle Tarn, at the foot of Paveyark, a huge rock in connection with Lang- dale Pikes — is famous for the quality of its trout. The stream falling. into Langdale, at Millbeck, in a foaming cataract, may be seen at a distance. Codale Tarn is a small piece of water, containing a few perch and eels. It sends a small stream down a rocky channel into Easdale Tarn, which is one of the largest mountain tarns, seated in the western branch of Grasmere vale among rocky precipices, of which Blakerigg, or Blea Crag, is the principal. Its stream — from its frothy white- TARNS. 35 ness called Sourmilk Gill — is a striking object from the road. Tarns tributary to Derwent Lake. A se- cond Blea Tarn is situated on the heathy moun- tain between Wythburn and Borrowdale. The water, after leaving it nearly two miles, is received by the small Tarn of Watendlath, in a circular valley of that name, which is not unworthy of be- ing visited. It is the stream from these tarns, which after running two miles further along a narrow valley, forms the famed cataract of Low- dore. Angle Tarn, stocked only with a few perch, is at the head of the stream belonging to the branch of Borrowdale called Langstreth. At the foot of Eagle Crag, this is joined by another stream from the branch of Greenup ; and after passing Stonethwaite and Rosthwaite, joins the Seathwaite branch a little further down the vale. Sprinkling Tarn, of irregular shape, reposes under Great End Crag ; it abounds with excel- lent trout ; but they are too well fed, or too wary to be easily tempted by the bait of the angler. Sty-head Tarn, in some maps called Sparkling Tarn, lies about three quarters of a mile below the last, near the road to Wasdale. The water, which it receives from Sprinkling Tarn, seems to have been deprived of its nutritive qualities ; as its fish are of a very inferior kind. The stream 36 TARNS. running from hence towards Seathwaite, has some fine frothy breaks, and one grand waterfall. Dock Tarn, and Tarn of Leaves ; one on the east side of Stonethwaite, the other between Seathwaite and Langstreth ; are barely entitled to be men- tioned. Scales Tarn, on the east end of the mountain Saddleback, is an oval piece of water covering an area of three acres and a half, its two diameters being 176 and 124 yards, its depth 18 feet; and uninhabited by the finny tribe. Some very ex- aggerated descriptions of this tarn have found their way into the history of Cumberland and other publications. From its gloomy appearance, occasioned by being overshadowed by steep rocks, its depth was supposed to be very great, and it has been represented as the crater of an ancient volcano; an assumption not supported by pre- sent appearances. Its stream after nearly encom- passing Souterfell is called the Glenderamaken, which passing Threlkeld joins that from Thirl- mere to form the Greta. Bowscale Tarn, which empties itself into the Caldew, is seated in a basin singularly scooped out of the side of a hill. — Over Water lies to the north of Skiddaw, in the rise of the river Ellen. — Burt- ness Tarn, or Bleaberry Tarn, lies on the south- EIVERS. 37 west side of Buttermere, in a recess between High Stile and Red Pike : its stream forms the cataract called Sour-milk gill. — Floutern Tarn serves as a landmark in passing between Buttermere and En- nerdale ; as Burnmoor Tarn does between Was- dale-head and Eskdale. — Devoke Water, connect- ed with the Esk near Ravenglass, is famous fox the excellence of its trout ; and as a place of resort for water fowls. There are some other small tarns, of little consequence in themselves, and seldom seen by strangers ; therefore they scarcely require to be noticed. Such are Eel Tarn, Stony Tarn, and Blea Tarn, in Eskdale, and the two tarns above Bowderdale in the Wasdale mountains. THE RIVERS. The Rivers of this district are not of large di- mensions ; but issuing from rocky mountains and running in pebbly channels, the water they con- tain is remarkable for its clearness and purity. From the central cluster of mountains about Bow- fell, Scawfell, and Gable, many of them derive their origin ; others have their source in the neigh- bourhood of Helvellyn and High Street. 38 " RIVERS. A Syke in provincial dialect is a stream of the smallest class ; as Heron-Syke near Burton — dividing the counties of Westmorland and Lan- cashire. A Gill (sometimes wrote Ghyll to ensure the hard sound of the G) is a mountain stream confined between steep banks, and running in a rapid descent. These Gills are instrumental in enriching the vallies by the spoil of the mountains ; they contribute to the formation of a plot of superior land on the side of a valley ; or sometimes a low promontory sweeping with a bold curve into a lake. Beck is a term used promiscuously for river, rivulet or brook ; it signifies a stream in the bottom of a vale, and to which the gills are tributary. These becks receive a name from some dale, hamlet or remarkable place which they pass, and in their course the appellation is frequently changed ; for instance, a stream running north from Bowfell, and receiving several augmentations in its progress down Borrowdale is called Langstreth beck ; then Stonethwaite beck, Rosthwaite beck, and Grange beck till it enters Derwent lake, thence it has the name of Derwent, to Workington, where it falls into the sea. The river issuing from Thirlmere commonly called St. John's beck has formerly been called the Bure ; the one from Mungrisdale by Threlkeld Genderamakin ; after their junction it takes the RIVERS. 89 name of Greta and receives the Glenderaferra from between Skiddaw and Saddleback ; passing Keswick it joins the Derwent, shortly after that river leaves the lake. In heavy rains the Greta sometimes rises so suddenly that it inverts the stream of the Derwent, so that the lake is for a short time literally filled from all quarters. The water issuing from Buttermere, Crummock and Lowes Water forms the river Cocker, which falls into the Derwent at the town named from this cir- cumstance Cockermouth. The Ellen rises in the mountains north of Skid- daw, and passing Uldale, Ireby and Ellenborough falls into the sea at Maryport. The several becks of Patterdale unite in Ulls- water, the river issuing from thence is called the Eamont ; it receives the Lowther from Hawes Water, Swindale and Wetsleddale near Brougham Castle, and is afterwards absorbed in the Eden, which enters the Solway Firth a little below Car- lisle, having first received the Petterill which rises near Greystoke, and the Caldew from the east side of Skiddaw. Two small streams crossing the road between Kendal and Shap fall into the Lune — >which at Kirkby Lonsdale is a fine river, and crossed by a lofty antique bridge ; it is navigable at Lancaster, a little below which place it falls into the sea. c<2 40 RIVERS. The Kent rising in Kentmere, receives the Sprint from Longsleddale and the Mint from Bannisdale. It washes the skirts of Kendal, and enters the sea near Milnthorp, where it is joined by the Belo. The various becks of Langdale combine to form the Brathay, and those of Grasmere the Rothay, which unite in Windermere : after leaving which it is the Leven, and joins the Crake from Coniston upon the sands below Penny Bridge. The Duddon rises on the south of Bowfell and separates Cumberland from Lancashire. Unre- tarded by any lake, it pursues its course in a pretty transparent stream and enters the sea on the north of the Isle of Walney. The Esk rising on the east of Scawfell, retains its name till it enters the sea at Ravenglass ; where the Irt from Wasdale, and the Mite from Miterdale also join upon the sands. The Bleng passing Gosforth falls into the Irt above Santon Bridge. The water flowing from the north side of Gable has a long meandering stream down Ennerdale ; it is called the Lissa till it enters the lake ; after- wards it is the Enn till it falls into the sea half way between Ravenglass and St. Bees. The C alder rising in Copeland forest, enters the sea near the same place. ( 41 ) THE WATERFALLS. Lowdore Cascade constitutes one of the most magnificent scenes among the Lakes. It is a very considerable stream, rushing through an immense chasm, and bounding with great fury over and among the huge blocks of stone, with which the channel is filled. To the left, the perpendicular Gowder Crag, near five hundred feet high, towers proudly pre-eminent ; while from the fissures of Shepherd's Crag on the right, the oak, ash, birch, holly, and wild-rose, hang in wanton luxuriance. Barrow Cascade, two miles from Keswick, has an upper and lower fall, more perpendicular than that of Lowdore, and exhibits to advantage a smaller quantity of water. From the top of the fall the lake and vale are seen in fine perspective. Scale Force near Buttermere, is the deepest in all the region of the lakes : it is said to fall at once one hundred and fifty-six feet, besides a smaller fall below. The water is precipitated into a tremendous chasm, between two mural rocks of sienite, beautifully overhung with trees which have fixed their roots in the crevices ; the sides clad with a profusion of plants which glitter with the spray of the fall. Visiters generally enter from 42 WATERFALLS. below, into this chasm, where the air, filled with moisture and shaded from the sun, feels cool and damp as in a cellar. Passing the lower, they may proceed towards the foot of the principal fall ; till the more copious sprinkling of the spray compels them to retrace their steps. Airey Force, on Ullswater, is concealed by ancient trees, in a deep glen in Gowbarrow Park. The water, compressed between two cheeks of rock, rushes forth with great violence ; and dash- ing from rock to rock, forms a spray, which, with the sun in a favourable direction, exhibits all the colours of the rainbow. Stock Gill Force, at Ambleside, is a combi- nation of four falls in one ; the water is divided into two streams, and after a moment's rest in the middle of the rock, is finally precipitated into the deep, shaded channel below. Rydal Waterfalls — the upper of which is a considerable cascade ; pouring out its water, first in a contracted stream, down a perpendicular rock ; and then, in a broader sheet, it dashes into a deep stony channel. The lower fall, being near the house, forms a beautiful garden scene. WATERFALLS. 43 Dungeon Gill is a stream issuing between the two Pikes of Langdale. The water falls into an awful chasm, with overhanging sides of rock, between which, a large block of stone is impended like the key-stone of an arch. The Force above Skelwith Bridge, has the greatest quantity of water of any amongst the lakes. When the river is full it makes a thunder- ing noise ; and is seen to most advantage from the Lancashire side. Colwith Force in Little Langdale — Birker Force, and Stanley Gill in Eskdale — may be thought worthy of notice. We have Sour Milk* Gill at Buttermere — Sour-Milk Gill in Grasmere — and Sour-Milk Gill near the Black-lead mine — and Taylor Gill, a little further on. The above enumerated, are some of the most noted of the falls: but tracing the mountain streams, into their deep recesses, they present an inexhaustible variety: smaller indeed, but fre- quently of very interesting features. • From its frothy whiteness resembling buttermilk from the churn. ( U ) THE MOUNTAINS. Skiddaw. — A view of the country, from at least one of the high mountains with which this country abounds, is considered as forming part of the tour, by those who can muster strength and resolution for the undertaking ; and for this pur- pose Skiddaw is, on several accounts, generally selected. It is nearest to the station at Keswick, most easy of access, (as ladies may ride on horse- back to the very summit,) and standing in some measure detached, the view, especially to the north and west, is less intercepted by other moun- tains. An extensive prospect being the principal motive for climbing a mountain, it is a question frequently asked, which is the best time of day for going up Skiddaw ? It is not easy to give a precise answer to this question: — The morning is often recommended ; and generally, the sooner you are there after the sun has shone out and the cloud left the mountain, the better. It is a griev- ous, though not an uncommon circumstance, to be enveloped in a cloud, which seems to be con- tinually passing on, yet never leaves the moun- tain during the time appropriated for the stay ; but those who are fortunate enough to be upon the summit at the very time of the cloud's depar- SKIDDAW. 45 ture, will experience a gratification of no common kind — when, like the rising of the curtain in a theatre, the country in a moment bursts upon the eye. It will always be better to seize a favourable opportunity, than to fix any certain time for the undertaking. A starry night is apt to lead to the expectation of a fine morning for the excursion ; and indeed very early in such a morning the view of the surrounding mountains is often grandly displayed ; but, during a clear, cold night, too much vapour is generally precipitated from the higher into the lower parts of the atmosphere ; in consequence of which, the air in the vallies, and more particularly over the sea, appears thick and hazy. After a succession of dry and hot days, the air is seldom favourable. But, between show- ers, or when clouds prevail, (provided they are above the altitude of the mountains,) the distant objects are frequently most distinctly seen. Some- times when clouds have formed below the summit, the country as viewed from above, resembles a sea of mist ; a few of the highest peaks having the appearance of islands, on which the sun seems to shine with unusual splendour. To such as have frequently beheld it under other circumstances, this may be considered a magnificent spectacle ; but a stranger will naturally wish to see the 46 SKIDDAW. features of the country more completely developed. It is only by those who have been accustomed to such sights, that the value of a fine day for the purpose, can be duly estimated. Some will look with wonder and delight, upon what others will deem a very indifferent prospect ; and many are not satisfied with the most favourable state of the atmosphere, because however clear and ex- tensive the prospect may be, still so much more falls under the eye than it is able clearly to dis- tinguish. A telescope is of less use here than is generally imagined. In the hands of a person previously acquainted with the country, it may assist in the recognition of a particular building or object : further than this, it can render little service ; when the air is thick and hazy, it can- not dispel the vapour ; and when clear, the eye has too large a field to range over, and either the cold air or want of time prevents the contempla- tion of individual objects. The exhibition from Skiddaw comprehends the principal part of Cumberland — the coast from St. Bees' Head to the head of Solway Frith, with its several bays and promontories — more distant, the Isle of Man, and a considerable portion of the southern part of Scotland. The summit of In- gleborough in Yorkshire, is just seen over the range of hills bounding the head of Ullswater ; SKIDDAW. 47 and a glimpse of the sea, near Lancaster, through the gap of Dunmail Raise. Derwent and Bas- senthwaite are the only lakes seen, and but one of these from the summit. Numerous objects visible from Skiddaw are particularized in Mr. Green's large work ; but, as few ascend the moun- tain without a guide, they are best pointed out as they present themselves, and as the state of the atmosphere renders them discernible. The value of a prospect of this kind, is not found in strain- ing the eye to see a something that the imagina- tion may convert into either the Irish mountains, or a fog-bank — a distant gleam of sunshine, or the reflection from the German ocean — a speck of condensed vapour, or a ship on the glittering sea : it lies rather in beholding a country richly varie- gated, with fields of corn fit for the sickle — mea- dows, green as an emerald — hills, clad with purple heath — lakes, with winding shores, and beautiful islands — rivers shining like silver, as they shape their serpentine courses towards the sea; — and in tracing the effects of light and shade upon mountains rising behind mountains in every imaginable diversity of form : in short, it consists in viewing such objects as can be distinctly known and properly appreciated. The views from the summits of some of the neighbouring mountains, may rival, or (in the 48 SKIDDAW. opinion of some) exceed in grandeur the view from the summit of this ; but in no other ascent, are the prospects equalled, which unfold them- selves in the ascent of Skiddaw, when overlook- ing the lake and vale of Derwent, with the Bor- rowdale and Newlands mountains. A portion of ground, connected with this moun- tain on the north and east, consisting of inferior elevations and heathy ground, is generally over- looked as uninteresting ; though in fact it is quite the reverse. It is interesting to the geologist, as shewing the granite rock, and its j unction with the slate; — to the mineralogist, as containing veins of lead and copper, also molybdena, tung- sten, apatite, and some other scarce and curious minerals ; — it is interesting to the sportsman, as affording the best grouse shooting in the neigh- bourhood; — and to the shepherd, as affording excellent pasturage for his flocks. Some have imagined, that on these heights a difficulty of breathing would be the consequence of a diminished pressure of the atmosphere ; ex- perience, however, warrants no such conclusion. By a cloud's passing before the sun the thermo- meter is more suddenly affected here than in a val- ley ; and the air, (especially when clouds are upon or near the summit,) feels colder than the thermo- meter would seem to indicate : — this may be owing SKIDDAW. 49 partly to the previous degree of heat acquired by the exertion ; and partly to the humidity of the air and the current mostly prevailing, by which the heat evolved by the body is more rapidly dis- sipated from the clothing. Amongst the various mountain plants observed in the ascent, are the different species of Lycopo- dium and Vaccinium, the Erica vulgaris and Empetrum nigrum; and on the summit the Salico herbacea peeps forth among the stones. — The rock is chiefly a dark coloured clay-slate, in which are discovered small imbedded crystals of chiastolite — in some parts of the mountain this mineral is more abundant. The heigKt of Skiddaw, as calculated by Col. Mudge, is 3022 feet above the level of the sea. In September 1817, I assisted Mr. Greatorex in the laborious process of measuring its height, with a spirit level and perpendicular staves : the result was 2808 feet above the level of Derwent Lake. The mean of five different trials with the barometer, in 1809, 1811, 1813, 1817, and 1820, was 2800 feet above the lake, which (according to the calculation of the late Mr. Crosthwaite) is 228 feet above the level of the sea. The distance from Keswick to the top of Skiddaw, by the different windings of the road, is nearly six miles. 50 SADDLEBACK CABBOCK FELL. Saddleback — being at a greater distance from the station at Keswick than Skiddaw, of some- what inferior elevation, and the ascent not quite so easy — is seldom visited by strangers. It is better situated than Skiddaw for a view towards the south, and also of the neighbourhood of Low- ther and Penrith ; but the western view is greatly intercepted. — It has been called Threlkeld Fell, and sometimes Blencrater, or Blenk-arthur ; and it is from its form, as seen from the vicinity of Penrith, that it has received the name of Saddle- back. Its height is 2787 feet, and its rock is a primitive clay slate, similar to that of Skiddaw. In walking along the ridge it is worth while to notice, how the southern side is formed into a series of deep ravines and rocky projections ; while to the north, it descends in a smooth grassy slope. And deeply below a rocky precipice on its eastern end, a small tarn is singularly placed ; a little be- yond which great preparations are now making for the working of a vein of lead ore. Caerock Fell makes one of the flanks of that mountain group, whereof Skiddaw forms the crown. It is upwards of 2000 feet in height ; and shews a double pointed summit, on which a space ap- pears to have been once inclosed by a wall. Its basis is a crystalline rock composed of a curious HELVELLYN. 51 variety of materials; and in its neighbourhood are veins of lead and copper, with other mineral substances highly interesting to the mineralogist and geologist. Helvellyn. — Different portions of this moun- tain have been known by different names, and it is to one of these portions that the name of Hel- vellyn has originally been given. Latterly how- ever the word has been used in a more extended sense ; and it is to the highest point of the moun- tain that travellers are now conducted as the summit of Helvellyn ; although it was formerly known by another name. And the peak which was anciently called Helvellyn Man,* lies near half a mile to the northward, and is now called the Lower Man. — Helvellyn is most conveniently ascended from the public-house at Wythburn, half way between Ambleside and Keswick, where the necessary guides may be had. The ascent is so steep that horses are never made use of; but to an active person on foot it presents no great difficulty. The views in the ascent are not to be compared to those obtained in the ascent of Skiddaw ; but from the summit, on a favourable day, they cannot fail to be gratifying. Moun- * Man is the provincial term for one of those rude obelisks or piles of stones, which are commonly built by the country people upon the summits of remarkable hills. 52 HELVELLYN. tains, vallies, and lakes, stretched out before you in all their varied forms ; while here and there the view is interrupted by bold projections of the hill on which you are stationed. A great part of UUswater and two smaller portions of AVinder- mere may be seen. Esthwaite and Coniston Lakes are shewn in full perspective ; and, beyond them, the deeply indented bays of the Lancashire coast. Several mountain tarns are also visible from hence ; the one named Red Tarn appears under the eye, at the depth of little more than two hundred yards. It is environed on the right by a singular ridge of rock called Striding Edge ; and on the left by Swirrel Edge, crested by Catchedecam; beyond which lies Keppel Cove Tarn. All the principal mountains of the district can be distinctly enu- merated; and between their summits in several places may be observed a glimpse of the distant sea. The Isle of Man seems elevated between the mountains Gable and the Pillar; and to the right and left of Skiddaw, appear the Scottish mountains. The cultivated country about Pen- rith is terminated by the lofty Crossfell, to the right of which are the mountains separating Westmorland from Durham and Yorkshire ; and further still to the right the crowned-topped Ingleborough stands conspicuous. Helvellyn may be ascended from Patterdale; HELVELLYN. 53 but it would yield the most interesting variety to begin the ascent between the fifth and sixth mile from Keswick, and finish the descent at Grasmere: or the reverse. From Fisher Place, leaving Brotto Gill on the left, some pleasing waterfalls are seen; with views of Thirlmere and Bassenthwaite Lakes ; by pursuing the range of summits, a fine succession of views of the vale of Patterdale is obtained; and in the descent the lake and vale of Grasmere expand before us. Some have extended their excursion from this mountain over Fairfield to Ambleside ; but after descending so low as Grisedale tarn, a second ascent will mostly be thought too fatiguing. By long continued exertion the mind as well as the body becomes enervated and loses its relish. I have known a gentleman, who in passing through Borrowdale in a morning, would not neglect the most trifling object ; yet, in the latter part of the same day, he would pass some of the most inter- esting scenes on Wast Water, without any other inquiry than " How far is it to the inn ?" The height of Helvellyn, according to Mudge, is 3055 feet : I have called it 3070. On the western side, 300 feet perpendicular below the summit, is a spring called Brownrigg Well, where the water issues in all seasons in a copious stream ; its temperature in the summer months, is from 54 SCAWFELL AXD THE PIKES. 40° to 42°. All the eastern side of the principal ridge is a series of rocky precipices ; while the western exhibits a smooth easy slope, producing however (except moss) but little vegetation. The rock on the summit is of a grey colour, and a coarse slaty structure. That of the lower part is more porphyritie, with a dark coloured base and small white crystals ; and between these lies a more compact rock, which, from its appearance, may be called hornstone. . Scawfell and the Pikes. — Several lofty peaks, upon that central group of mountains from which the vallies of Borrowdale, Langdale, Esk- dale and Wasdale may be said to diverge are included in Donald's map of Cumberland (from which succeeding maps of the county have been in a great measure copied) under the general name of " Sea Fell." And the two most eminent of these points are called in the Trigonometrical Survey " Sea-Fell highest top' 1 and " Sea-Fell lower top." These authorities might be deemed sufficient to establish a name ; but the shepherds of Wasdale head who are best acquainted with the mountains, contend that Scawfell extends no farther towards the north-east than the deep chasm called Mickle Door, which divides the two prin- cipal points ; and the highest point, or that nearer Borrowdale, is by them called simply " The Pikes." SCAWFELL AND THE PIKES. 55 A trifling misnomer like this may be thought of little consequence, and in a mountain like Skiddaw or Helvellyn, where from one peak to another is but a pleasant walk, it would not signify much ; but here the passage between the two points is attended with considerable difficulty, although they are not more than three quarters of a mile asunder; and to a stranger wishing to ascend one of these elevations, it becomes of importance to make his inquiries intelligible to those from whom he may seek information. In the published account of the Trigonometri- cal Survey, the altitude of the higher point is stated to be 3166, the lower 3092 feet above the level of the sea ; making a difference of 74 feet. Without pretending to determine whether the one has been rated a few feet too high, or the other a few feet too low, I have ventured to call the one 3160, the other 3100, making a difference of only 60 feet; which from observations made between the two points, I am convinced is rather in ex- cess than otherwise. Both these points afford extensive views, as well of the surrounding mountains as of a consi- derable part of the Lancashire and Cumberland coasts, the Isle of Man, and a portion of the coast of Scotland, and on a very favourable day the mountains of North Wales may be seen on the right of Black Combe. That part which is called 56 SCAWFELL AND THE PIKES. The Pikes has a view of Windermere and Der- went Lake, and upon the whole affords the more complete panorama ; besides the gratification of being upon the highest ground in England. It also rises to the greatest height from the valley immediately at its base ; being three thousand feet above Wastwater. The highest point, or Pike, may be most conveniently ascended from Borrowdale, the lower from Wasdale head, or Eskdale ; but the distance from any house of en- tertainment, the rugged ground, and the danger of being caught by a cloud in such a situation, altogether conspire against its being visited by any other than hardy pedestrians. And strangers are cautioned, so to calculate their time, as not to run the risk of being benighted on such places ; — to be caught in a cloud is disagreeable ; — cloud and night would be terrible. Very little vegetation is here to be seen, rocks and large blocks of stone piled one upon another are the principal features. It seems that the action by which these blocks were separated from their native rock, has long since ceased to operate, as their weather-worn sur- faces prove that they have remained in their present state for ages. The rock is formed in layers of finer and coarser materials, and long exposure gives to the surface a ribbed or furrowed appear- ance. Great End, the north-eastern limit of the BOWFELL GABLE. 57 range, presents its broad rocky front towards Kes- wick. The rain water falling upon it, runs into Eskdale, Wasdale, and Borrowdale. Part of this rock is as compact as flint, and on its surface Lichen geographicus appears in peculiar beauty. Bowfell rises proudly in view from Winder- mere and Esthwaite Lakes. It is 2911 feet in height, and sheds the rain water into Borrowdale, Langdale, Ulpha, and Eskdale. It is easiest of access from Langdale, but may be reached from any of the above mentioned vales. Gable, or Great Gavel — so called from its shape — is a fine object as viewed from Wasdale, from Ennerdale, or from Crummock Lake ; it is also seen from Windermere. It is 2925 feet in height, and is remarkable for a well of pure water on the very summit. This is not a spring issuing in the common way out of the earth ; but is sup- plied immediately from the atmosphere, in the shape of rains and dews. It is a triangular recep- tacle in the rock, six inches deep, and capable of holding about three gallons ; and by containing water in the driest seasons, shews how slight a degree of evaporation is carried on at this altitude. The rock of Gable is a very hard, compact, dark coloured stone, with garnets imbedded. 58 PILLAR GRASM00R GRISEDALE PIKE. The Pillar — a mountain rivalling the Gable in height — is situated between the vale of Enner- dale and that branch of Wasdale head called Mose- dale. It presents towards Ennerdale one of the grandest rocky fronts any where to be met with ; and has derived its name from a projecting rock on this side ; which was originally called the Pillar Stone, and had been considered as inaccessible, till an adventurous shepherd reached its summit in 1826. The rock is a kind of greenstone, more porphyritic than that of Gable. Grasmoor is a bold rocky mountain on the eastern side of Crummock Lake ; it is sometimes called Grasmire, a name in no wise corresponding with its appearance and productions, it rises to the height of 2756 feet with a rounded summit, and affords a good bird's-eye view of the Lakes of Buttermere, Crummock and Loweswater, with their adjacent mountains ; and a considerable portion of the Cumberland coast. Grisedale Pike rises to a lofty apex, as its name implies ; it is 2580 feet in height and is well situated for a view of the vale of Keswick to the east, and a considerable part of the county of Cumberland, with the sea the Isle of Man and the mountains of Galloway to the west and north. BLACK COMB CONISTON FELL. 59 Black Combe, or Coom, stands near the south- ern boundary of Cumberland. Forming the ex- tremity of the mountain chain, it may be seen at a great distance ; and is a fine station both for land and sea prospects. In 1808, it was made one of Colonel Mudge's stations, in the process of the Trigonometrical survey. He calculated its height to be 1919 feet above the level of the sea. Its basis is a rock of clay-slate similar to that of Skiddaw ; and it is covered by a large tract of peat earth, which is cut for fuel and brought down on different sides of the mountain. Coniston Fell. — The highest point of Coni- ston Fell, is called The Old Man, from the pile of stones erected on its summit. It is 2577 feet in height, and has a F good view of the rocky mountains, Scawfell and Bowfell, and at a dis- tance, the highest point of Skiddaw. Coniston Lake is seen in full proportion, with a part of Win- dermere. Two tarns appear upon the mountain, the smaller, called Low Water, although on the higher level ; the larger, Levers Water ; and on the western side of the hill, but not seen from the summit, is Gates Water, lying at the foot of the precipitous Dow Crag. Standing open to the south, unincumbered by other mountains, the Old Man commands a complete view of all the fine 60 FAIRFIELD. bays and estuaries of the Lancashire, and part of the Cumberland coast — the Isles of Walney and Man — and, in the direction of the river Duddon, on a favourable day, may be distinguished Snow- don, and its neighbouring mountains. Beginning to ascend at the Black Bull near Coniston Church, you have on your left a stream abounding in pretty waterfalls, running parallel with the road. The copper mines near Levers Water, and slate quarries between Low Water and the summit, can be seen ; and the descent may be made at choice more in front of the mountain. Those who admire a lengthened mountain excur- sion, may begin the ascent at Fellfoot, in Little Langdale, and surmounting the Carrs [scarrs] and the OMMan, descend to Coniston. The summit of the hill, as well as the quarries on its sides, is of a fine, pale blue, roofing slate. A considerable portion of the mountain is formed of a very hard rock, which some have denomina- ted Petro-silex ; and between this and Coniston Church, on the western side of the stream, the commencement of the darker coloured slate may be observed. Fairfield — 2950 feet above the level of the sea — makes a fine mountain excursion from Ambleside, commencing the ascent at Rydal, en- LANGDALE PIKES. 61 circling Rydal head, and returning to Ambleside by Nook end. Lakes and Tarns to the number of ten, may be enumerated in this excursion ; viz : Ullswater, Windermere, Esthwaite, Coniston, Grasmere, and Rydal lakes ; and Elterwater, Blelham, Easdale, and Grisedale tarns : oftener than once, may eight of them be reckoned from one station. Here is likewise a good view of the different creeks and inlets of the sea towards Lan- caster and Ulverston. Langdale Pikes,* called Pike of Stickle, and Harrison Stickle, are by their peculiar form dis- tinguished at a great distance. They afford some good views to the south east ; but being encom- passed on other sides by higher mountains, the prospect is somewhat limited. Harrison Stickle the higher, is 2400 feet above the level of the sea: it is more easily ascended, and has the better prospect towards Rydal and Ambleside; but the Pike of Stickle has the advantage of catching through an opening in the hills, a view of Bassenthwaite lake, and the foot of Skiddaw ; from which Harrison Stickle is by higher grounds ex- cluded. * These Pikes should always be distinguished from the Pikes of Wasdale Head, by some called the Pikes of Scawfell. 62 HIGHSTKEET WAXSFELL PIKE. Highstreet may have taken its name from an ancient road which now appears as a broad green path over this mountain. It is probably the highest road ever formed in England, being 2700 feet above the level of the sea. — On account of its central situation between the vales of Patter- dale, Martindale, Mardale, Kentmere, and Trout- beck, and being connected with others at a little distance ; an annual meeting was formerly held here, when the shepherds of the several vales re- ciprocally communicated intelligence of such sheep as might have strayed beyond their proper bounds ; and to enliven the meeting, races and other diver- sions were instituted; ale and cakes being supplied from the neighbouring villages. — Highstreet af- fords some good prospects, but being at a distance from any place of entertainment it is seldom visited by strangers. Pedestrians fond of moun- tain rambles might, with a guide, pass over it from Patterdale into Troutbeck, or Kentmere, or into Mardale, and thence by Hawes Water to Bamp- ton, from whence are roads to Pooley Bridge, Lowther, Penrith, and Shap. Waxsfell Pike rises to the height of 1500 feet above Windermere Lake — a moderate eleva- tion compared with many of its neighbours ; yet it is not deficient in prospects. It aifords excel- LOUGHRIGG FELL. 03 lent views of Windermere, Grasmere, and Rydal lakes ; the towns of Ambleside and Hawkshead, with the beautifully diversified scenery in the neighbourhood. Further distant are seen the sands of Milnthorp, Lancaster, and Ulverston, with the majestic mountains of Coniston and Langdale. In a walk from the pike, towards Kirkstone, it is curious to observe, Great Gable start out, as it were, from behind Langdale Pikes, and appearing to separate itself from them still further as the spectator makes his progress along this ridge. Wansfell may be conveniently visited either from Ambleside or Low Wood Inn ; and a formation of slaty limestone may be observed crossing its southern end. Loughrigg Fell the last and lowest, but not the least esteemed, is only 1050 feet above Win- dermere, and 900 above Grasmere lake. The moderate degree of exertion required to climb it, will be amply repaid by the prospects. By tra- versing its different points, may be seen a con- siderable portion of Windermere, Esthwaite, Grasmere and Rydal waters, Blelham, Elterwater, and Loughrigg Tarns, a small portion of Coniston and Thirlmere lakes, with other interesting scenery, scarcely to be equalled on so moderate an elevation. d2 64 BEARINGS AND HEIGHTS Station I. — Scawfell highest point, The Pikes. Latitude 54° 27' 24" N. Longitude 3° 12' W. Height 3160 feet. BEARINGS Distance in miles Height in feet Skiddaw 10° NE 14 3022 Ingleborough, Yorkshire . . 58 SE 38 2361 Black Combe, Cumberland . . 19 SW 15 1919 Snowdon, Caernarvonshire . . 20 SW 103 3571 Holyhead Mountain, Anglesea 37 SW 100 709 North Barule, Isle of Man 78 SW 49 1804 Sleiph Donard, Ireland . . . 79 SW 112 2820 Mull of Galloway, Scotland 77 NW 68 ■ Burrow Head, . do. . . 68 NW 51 Crif Fell, . . do. 26 NW 38 1831 Station II. — Skiddaw. Latitude 54° 39' J2" N . Longitude 3° 8' 9" W. Height 3022 feet. Wisp Hill, near Mospaul Inn Carlisle Cheviot Hill, Northumberland Cross Fell, Cumberland . . Saddleback Nine Standards, Westmorland Ingleborough . . . . . Helvellyn Black Corabe Snowdon Snea Fell, Isle of Man . . , Sleiph Donard, Down . . Bryal Point, nearest in Ireland Mull of Galloway . . . , Burrow Head , Crif Fell Ben Lomond, Stirling . . . Ben Nevis, Inverness . . . Queensberry Hill, Scotland . . 9°NE 45 26 NE 19 35 NE 70 82 NE 27 78 SE 4 68 SE 38 42 SE 46 32 SE 10 15 SW 29 19 SW 118 64 SW 59 73 SW 120 82 SW 91 89 NW 69 84 NW 50 43 NW 28 30 NW 120 28 NWj 170 22 NW| 48 1940 2004 2820 1831 3420 4358 2259 OF MOUNTAINS. 65 Station III. — Helvellyn. Latitude 54° 31' 43" N . Longitude 3° 0' 21' ' W. Height 3070 feet. Cheviot Cross Fell Stainmoor Ingleborough Bidston Lighthouse, Cheshire Garreg Mountain, Flintshire Old Man, Coniston .... Snowdon SneaFell ...... CrifFell BEARINGS Distance in miles 28° NE 75 60 NE 24 88 SE 34 45 SE 36 1 SW 79 8 SW 87 21 SW 12 24 SW 112 74 SW 61 40 NW 38 2658 2901 2361 835 2577 3571 2004 1831 Station IV. — Coniston Old Man. Latitude 54? 22' 20' N. Longitude 3° 6 : 34" W. Height 2577 feet. Calf, near Sedbergh .... Great Whernside, Kettlewell Whernside, near Dent . . . Pennygant Ingleborough PendleHill Lancaster Moel Fammau, Denbigh . . Carnedd Llewellyn, Caernarvon Carnedd David . . do. Snowdon . ... do. Penmaen Mawr . . do. Holyhead Mountain . . . Black Combe Snea Fell Burrow Head Skiddaw : ■-'■>.■ 3022 TThe foregoing tables are inserted to shew the relative positions and height of some of the principal mountains beyond the limits of this map ; without intending to say, that all of them can be discerned from the station under which they are placed.] East 25 72° SE 48 71 SE 31 70 SE 38 64 SE 33 44 SE 49 31 SE 25 4 SW 85 23 SW 92 23 30' 93 23 40' 99 24 SW 85 41 SW 98 46 SW 12 84 SW 55 64 NW 56 4 NW 20 ( 66 ) Names of frequent occurrence among the Mountains. Dod is generally applied to a secondary elevation attached to one of the larger mountains ; and mostly having a rounded summit. There is the Dod on the western side of Skiddaw, and also in front of Red Pike; and Starling Dod, nearer Ennerdale. In the mountain range proceeding north from Helvellyn, are Stybarrow Dod, Watson Dod, and Great Dod. And in Patterdale, Glenridden Dod, and Hartshope Dod. Barrow, a term often intended to signify an artificial hill, is also applied to natural ones. There is Barrow on the west side of Derwent Lake, a hill 1200 feet high ; there is Whit- barrow near Penrith, and Whitbarrow near Witherslack: Yewbarrow in Witherslack, and Yewbarrow in Wasdale. Latterbarrow explains itself, a hill branching from the side of a mountain : we have Latterbarrow at the foot of Wast Water, and Latterbarrow in Ennerdale. How generally implies a hill rising in a valley; (the sides of such hills are frequently ornamented with dwellings.) There is the How halfway between the Lakes of Derwent and Bassenthwaite ; Pouterhow, at the head of Bassenthwaite lake ; and Castlehow, at its foot : Great How near Rosthwaite, and Great How near Leathes Water : the How and Butterlip How in Grasmere, the How in Ennerdale, and the How near Lough- rigg Tarn, with several others. Numerous alluvial or diluvial hillocks of a parabolic form are found in the heads of several vales — in both the Langdales, in Greenup vale in Borrowdale, and in the head of Ennerdale, where they are peculiarly inte- resting. Cam [comb] the erest of a mountain, as well as of a cock : as, Catsty Cam — Rosthwaite Cam. Neese [nose] a ridge running from the summit of a moun- tain steeply downwards : as, Gavel neese — Lingmel neese. Coom in some districts, and Cove in others, denotes a place scooped out of the side of a mountain ; there is Coom, and Gillercoom in Borrowdale; Keppel Cove, Brown Cove, Red Cove, Ruthwaite Cove and others in the side of Helvellyn. Door, an opening between two perpendicular cheeks of rock : as Mickle Door — Coom Door — Low Door, modernized into Lowdore. ( 67 ) THE CRAGS. Some of the most remarkable Crags are — the Pillar in Ennerdale ; Honister Crag near Butter- mere; Scawfell Crags, between Wasdale head and Eskdale ; Broad Crag on the Wasdale side, and Broad Crag on the Eskdale side of Scawfell Pikes; Paveyark, in Langdale; Raisbarrow Crag, in Kentmere; St. Sunday Crag, in Patter- dale ; Wallow Crag near Keswick, and Wallow Crag near Hawes Water ; Wallowbarrow Crag, in the vale of Duddon ; Castle Crag in Mardale, Castle Crag in Borrowdale (said to have been a Roman station), and Castle head near Keswick; Green Crag in Legberthwaite, sometimes called the Enchanted Castle or Castle Rock of St. John's; Gait Crag [Goat Crag] in Borrowdale, Gait Crag near Shoulthwaite, and Gait Crag in Langdale ; Dow Crag [Dove Crag] in Coniston Fells, Dow Crag in Patterdale, and Dow Crag in Eskdale ; Eagle Crag in Borrowdale, Eagle Crag in Butter- mere, and Eagle Crag in Patterdale ; Falcon Crag near Derwent Lake ; and a Raven Crag in almost every vale, one of the most conspicuous of which is that overlooking Leathes Water. ( 68 ) ANTIQUITIES. A Druid's Temple one mile and a half from Keswick, in a field adjoining the old road towards Penrith. It is a circle 112 yards in circumference, formed by 38 rough stones, from 3 to 8 feet in height ; 10 other stones forming a square within, on the eastern side. King Arthur's Round Table, a place where, Clark says, the brave of other days vindicated their knighthood by feats of arms ; and May burgh, a "mysterious structure 1 ' which he supposes to have been the Gymnasium, where the wrestlers, the racers, and others of lower degree performed then* exercises — are both near Eamont Bridge. The principal Monastic remains are Furness Abbey in Lancashire, and Calder Abbey near the road from Ravenglass to Whitehaven; there is also one of smaller dimensions near Shap. Remains of ancient Castles are to be seen at Cockermouth, Egremont, Penrith, Brougham, and Kendal. Part of that at Cockermouth has been repaired and is inhabited, the others are in various stages of decay. On Hardknot and on Carrock Fell are some mystic remains of inclosure walls. And near Devoke water, the ruins of a place called Barnscar. ( 69 ) STAGES IN THE LAKE DISTRICT. Lancaster, over Sands to Flookborough 16 Flookborough, over Sands, to Ulverston 7 Lancaster to Milnthorp, New Road 14 Milnthorp to Newby Bridge 15 Newby Bridge to Ulverston 9 Ulverston to Hawkshead ... ... ... 16 Hawkshead to Bowness, by the Ferry 6 Ulverston to Ambleside, by Coniston ... 22 Milnthorp to Kendal ... 8 Lancaster to Burton .. • ... 11 Burton to Kendal ,, . ... 11 Kendal to Bowness .. ... 9 Bowness to Ambleside ... .. , ... 6 Kendal to Low Wood Inn .. ... 12 Kendal to Ambleside .. ... 14 Bowness to Newby Bridge .. . 8 Newby Bridge to Hawkshead .. ... 9 Hawkshead to Ambleside .. ... 5 Low Wood Inn to Penrith .. • ... 27 Low Wood Inn to Keswick .. ... 18 Ambleside to Penrith .. • ... 25 Ambleside to Keswick .. ... 16 Keswick to Cockermouth, New 1 load 13 Cockermouth to Whitehaven , 14 Keswick to Penrith ... ... 18 Penrith to Carlisle ,. ... 18 Keswick to Wigton .. ... 22 Wigton to Carlisle ... 11 ( 70 ) EXCURSIONS. t£? Market Towns in Small Capitals ; Inns and Public Houses in Italic. THE CONISTON EXCURSION, FROM BOWNESS. COMPUTED MILES. 2 Cross Windermere to Ferry House . . 2 4 By Esthwaite Water to Hawkshead . 6 3 Coniston Water Head 9 3 Borwick Ground 12 5 Ambleside, Salutation 17 THE LANGDALE EXCURSION, FROM AMBLESIDE. 3 Skelwith Bridge 3 2 Colwith Cascade 5 3 BleaTarn 8 3 Dungeon Gill 11 2 Langdale Chapel Stile 13 5 By High Close and Rydal to Ambleside 18 ULLSWATER, FROM AMBLESIDE. 10 Patterdale . 10 9h Pooley Bridge 19^ 44 Eamont Bridge 24 1 Penrith — Crown, George 25 HAWES WATER, FROM PENRITH. 5 Lowther, or Askham ...".... 6 7 By Bampton, to Hawes Water .... 12 4 Return by Bampton, to Butterswick . .16 5 Over Moor Dovack to Pooley Bridge . .21 6 By Dalemain to Penrith 27 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 71 A DRIVE ROUND DERWENT LAKE. COMPUTED MILES, 2 Barrow House, and Cascade 2 1 Lowdore, . ditto 3 1 Grange . 4 1 Bowder Stone 5 1 Return and cross the River at Grange . 6 4| Portinscale 10| \\ Keswick, Royal Oak, Queens Head ' . 12 A RIDE TO BUTTERMERE. 5 Bowder Stone 6 1 Rosthwaite 6 2 Seatoller 8 2 Honister Crag 10 2 Gatesgarth 12 2 Buttermere . . 14 Boat on Crummock Lake ; see Scale Force and return, 5 miles. 9 Through Newlands to Keswick . . ■ . 23 A DRIVE TO BUTTERMERE. 2| Braithwaite 2^ 2£ Summit of Whinlatter 5 3 Lorton 8 8 By the side of Crummock lake to Buttermere 16 16 Return to Keswick same way; .... 32 or through Newlands 7, miles nearer. A DRIVE TO SCALE HILL. 8 Lorton 8 4 Scale Hill 12 Boat on Crummock lake ; see Scale Force and Buttermere, and return, 10 miles. 12 Return to Keswick 24 72 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. A TWO DAYS' RIDE. COMPUTED MILES. 8 ToSeatollar 8 1 Seathwaite 9 3 Sty Head 12 2 Wasdale Head 14 6 Nether Wasdale, Strands 20 4 Gosforth . 24 5 Colder Bridge 27 SECOND DAY. 7 Ennerdale Bridge 7 3 Lamplugh Cross 10 4 Lowes Water 14 2 Scale Hill . • 16 4 Buttermere 20 9 Keswick 29 A DRIVE TO PATTERDALE. 11 Beckses 11 7 Gowbarrow Park 18 4 Patterdale 22 Return the same way ; or 10 Pooley Bridge 32 6 Penrith 38 A DRIVE TO POOLEY BRIDGE. ' 12 Penruddock 12 3 Dacre 15 3 Pooley Bridge 18 6 Penrith 24 5 Or, from Pooley Bridge to Lowther . . 23 5 Lowther to Penrith 28 A DRIVE ROUND BASSENTHWAITE LAKE. 5 Bassenthwaite Sandbed 5 3 Castle Inn . 8 1 Ouse Bridge 9 1 Peel Wyke 10 8 Keswick 18 ( 73 ) GENERAL DIRECTIONS TO TOURISTS. From Lancaster, by way of Furness Abbey, Coniston, fyc. to Windermere. In approach- ing the Lakes from the south, great variety of routes present themselves ; the choice of which must depend upon circumstances of taste, con- venience, and mode of travelling. When the Tourist has arrived at Lancaster, should the ruins of Furness Abbey be an object of contem- plation, the shortest way is to cross the Lancaster and Ulverston Sands, which on a fine day, may be considered a very interesting ride of 22 miles to Ulverston ; from whence it is 7 miles to the Abbey. Those who want courage to venture upon the sands, may take the new turnpike road to Milnthorp. Opposite the village of Bolton, about 2 miles to the right, is a natural cavern, called Dunald Mill Hole; and further onwards the two remarkable hills of limestone — Warton Crag on the left, and Farlton Knot to the right. From Lancaster to Milnthorp is 14 miles : and here is the option of the Ulverston or Kendal roads. The Ulverston road after passing Hever- sham and Levens, turns to the left, over some large tracts of peatmoss, having on the right the isolated ridges of limestone, called Whitbarrow, [the white hill] and Yewbarrow, forming lofty 74 GENERAL DIRECTIONS scars, [escarpments] on their western sides, and reposing on the slaty rock upon which the road in part is formed. From Milnthorp to Newby Bridge is 15 Miles ; and here is the choice of continuing the Ulverston road, or proceeding along the banks of Windermere, by Bowness and Low Wood to Ambleside. The new road to Ulverston follows the course of the Leven to Backbarrow, where it crosses the river by a bridge situated among manufactories of cotton, of iron, of pyroligneous acid, and of gun- powder. Leaving Hollow Oak on the left, it passes over some peatmoss, and presently approaches the sands, where it is interesting to meet the flow- ing tide, as it washes against the breastwork of the road. The river Crake, which issues from Coniston water, is then crossed by a bridge under which the tide flows, and we join the old road near a place called Greenod, where small craft take in their lading, consisting chiefly of slate, timber, and iron. From Newby Bridge to Ulverston is 9 miles, Ulverston to Dalton 5, and thence to Furness Abbey 2 miles. This Monastery was founded in 1127, the Monks were Benedictines of the order of Savigny; they afterwards became Cistertians, and continued till the dissolution in 1537. From the rising ground of Hawcoat one mile west of the Abbey there is a prospect over a TO TOURISTS. 75 richly cultivated country and a part of the sea, to a most extensive range of distant mountains : and from the more lofty station of Birkrigg the view of Furness and the surrounding coast is singularly beautiful. Two miles from Ulverston is Conis- head, generally called the Priory, a place highly extolled by Mr. West, who says " it is a great omission in the curious traveller, to be in Furness and not to see so wonderfully pretty a place, to which nature has been so profuse in noble gifts, and where art has lent its best assistance, under the regulation of an elegant fancy, and a refined taste.' 1 The house is now undergoing a complete renovation. Ulverston is upon the slaty rock, Dalton upon mountain limestone, and the valley in which Furness Abbey is placed is flanked by by red sandstone, from which the Abbey has been built. Iron ore is procured in large quantities from veins in the limestone ; good specimens of red hematite may here be obtained, with specular iron ore, and quartz crystals. The road generally preferred on leaving Ulver- ston, leads by Lowick Chapel, where there is a good view of Coniston Lake, with the mountains at its head, and Helvellyn in the distance ; and after crossing Lowick Bridge, proceeds up the eastern side of the lake to Waterhead Inn, distant from Ulverston 14 miles. 76 GENERAL DIRECTIONS At Coniston, besides the views of the lake from its banks, and from its bosom in a boat, the lovers of landscape beauties may find some pretty walks, in the vales of Yewdale and Tilberthwaite. A full length view of the lake is obtained in passing over the hill called Tarnhows, on the road towards Elterwater ; and an excursion to Levers Water and the Old Man, on a fine day, would not be thought uninteresting. The geologist may amuse himself by tracing a stratum of transition lime- stone, alternating with slate, as it bassets out upon the hills, on the north-west of the road leading towards Borwick Ground ; just beyond which place it is quarried, and a kiln built, on the left of the road to Ambleside. The slate quarries about Tilberthwaite, and the copper mines on Til- berthwaite Fell, and near Levers Water, may also be visited; and on the road to Ambleside, the Brathay flag quarry may be considered worth notice. From Coniston, those who feel no hesitation in crossing the Ferry on Windermere, may pro- ceed through Hawkshead, by the side of Esthwaite Water, to the Ferry ; and after taking a view of Windermere, from Mr. Curwen's Station-house, cross the water to Bowness, distant from Coniston Water-head 9 miles. Those who object to cross- ing the water, may either proceed from Coniston 'OFRISTS. 77 to Ambleside direct, 8 miles ; or from the Ferry, by the western banks of the lake to Ambleside, distant from Coniston by this route 14 miles. From Milnthorp direct to Windermere. Putting Furness Abbey out of the question, some will rather proceed from Milnthorp to Kendal, and from thence to Windermere Lake at Bowness, Low Wood, or Ambleside. At Ken- dal, a museum kept by Mr. Todhunter deserves attention, as exhibiting the natural history and antiquities of the country. Here is also a marble manufactory carried on by Mr. Webster, where several varieties of limestone are worked and po- lished as marble. Tourists who spend a day in Kendal may find a pleasing walk of two miles to Scout Scar, which lies to the south west of the town on the edge of a precipitous limestone rock ; it affords a complete panoramic view, and is a fine station for an introduction to the mountains, or taking leave of them on a return from the lakes. From Milnthorp to Kendal, is 8 miles ; Kendal to Bowness, 9. For such as wish to arrive at once upon the centre of Windermere, there is a shorter, but inferior road from Milnthorp to Bow- ness, through Crosthwaite and Winster, in one stage of 14 miles. From Kendal to Low Wood Inn is 12, and to Ambleside 14 miles. About 8 78 GENERAL DIRECTIONS miles from Kendal, on either the Bowness or Ambleside road, there is a grand view of Winder- mere Lake. Near Bowness, are eminences of various degrees of elevation ; where according to the taste of the party, the views may be taken either from a higher or a lower station. — At Low Wood, while the admirer of the landscape takes his views of the lakes and mountains from the rising grounds ; and the angler amuses himself upon the water ; the geologist may be empolyed in examining the position of the transition lime- stone, and the slate, where they have been work- ed, in two adjoining quarries near the road, about a quarter of a mile north of the inn. And the neighbourhood of Ambleside affords many plea- sing excursions. Coniston and its environs may be visited from Bowness, first crossing the Ferry on Windermere. The scenery is good from the rising grounds of Sawrey, and by the side of Esthwaite Water, over which there are sweet views of the vale of Hawkshead, spotted with neat houses, and its church on an elevated site; the mountains of Langdale and Grasmere, with Helvellyn, and those of Rydal, rising proudly in the distance. Passing through the little town of Hawkshead, (where a post-chaise is kept at the Red Lion,) and over the high grounds to the inn at Coniston TO TOURISTS. 79 Waterhead, the distance from Bowness is 9 miles The return may be made by the head of Win- dermere to Bowness 13, or to Ambleside 8 miles; but it would be a great omission to forego the beau- tiful views that might be had on the road from Bowness, by Troutbeck bridge and Low Wood to Ambleside. Ambleside. The Lansxlale excursion from Ambleside or Low Wood, presents a variety of lake and mountain scenery, scarcely to be equalled in a journey of the same length, during the whole tour. It may be performed on horseback ; but many parts of the road will not admit of any kind of carriage, except a cart. Passing Clappersgate, the party may either proceed with the river on the left, to Skelwith Bridge ; or crossing Brathay Bridge, take the river on the right, by Skelwith Fold. At Skelwith Bridge, is a public-house, and a little further up the river, a considerable waterfall ; but the road by Skelwith Fold, being on a higher elevation, commands a fuller view into Great Langdale. After the junction of the two roads, there is a view of Elterwater. The road entering Lancashire at Brathay, or at Skelwith Bridge, leaves it again at Colwith Bridge ; a little above which, is a pretty cascade. After passing Little Langdale Tarn, the road over Wrynose 80 GENERAL DIRECTIONS takes the left hand, the one to be pursued turns to the right, ascending the common to Blea Tarn ; near to which the Langdale Pikes exhibit their most magnificent contour. Leaving the tarn and solitary farm house on the left, proceed to the edge of the hill, where you will have a fine view of the head of Great Langdale, into which the road steeply descends. A curious waterfall may be seen in Dungeon Gill, — a stream issuing be- tween the two Pikes ; and falling among rocks of a peculiar flinty appearance. Mill Beck is the stream flowing from Stickle Tarn, and gives name to two farm-houses, at one of which it may be convenient to leave the horses, while visiting Dungeon Gill. Following the road down Great Langdale, the traveller will arrive at Thrang Crag, where the rock in a slate quarry is excava- ted in an awful manner ; and soon after pass the chapel, near which is a small alehouse. Here, taking the road to the left, you come to a second prospect of Elterwater ; and at a little distance on the right, you have the works lately erected for the manufacture of gunpowder. Near the farm- house called High Close, you have a fine view over Loughrigg Tarn, with Windermere in the dis- tance ; and crossing a road leading from Skelwith Bridge, come in sight of the peaceful vale of Grasmere, near the station recommended by TO TOURISTS. 81 Mr/ West. Then, leaving the lakes of Grasmere and Rydal on the left, you join the turnpike road, and conclude the excursion at Ambleside after a most pleasing circuit of eighteen miles. A variety of shorter excursions may be made from Ambleside ; a walk of half a mile from the inn, to the waterfall of Stock Gill, will not be neglected ; and one of a mile and a half may be taken to the falls at Rydal. A ramble round the lakes of Rydal, and Grasmere; round, or over Loughrigg Fell ; a more elevated walk to Wans- fell Pike ; or the still more lofty circuit of Fair- field, on a favourable opportunity, will not fail to please such as delight in extensive prospects. Those who have not already seen Coniston, may make an excursion thither : and Ullswater may also be visited from hence, by the steep carriage road over Kirkstone, (which rises near 1200 feet above Ambleside,) to Patterdale 10 miles ; and either return the same way, or proceed to Penrith 15 miles more. Or stop at Pooley Bridge, if that be preferred ; from whence Hawes Water, and Lowther Castle may be visited. And some who travel on horseback might choose a ride over the mountains Wrynose and Hardknot, through the vale of Eskdale to Nether Wasdale, about 22 miles ; and next day by Wast Water, Styhead, and Borrowdale, to Keswick 20 miles. 82 At Ambleside is an exhibition of drawings, and prints, begun by the late Mr. Green, and con- tinued by his family. Mr. Green depicted the varied scenery of this interesting region, with an ability and industry seldom united in one person. In the entrance upon a tour, these delineations may be useful, in shewing the character of the several parts of the country about to be visited; and on the conclusion, a selection — which can be purchased at a moderate expense — may revive at a future period the pleasing recollection of some favourite scenes. And Green's Guide will long remain a monument of the assiduity with which he pryed into the arcana of these mountains. From Ambleside to Keswick. — The road from Ambleside to Keswick affords a charming variety ; it passes, first the neat village and small lake of Rydal ; next the extensive slate quarry at White Moss ; and then, by a deviation lately made in the road, we soon come in sight of the lake and beautiful vale of Grasmere, so much extolled by Mr. Gray. By this improvement travelling is con- siderably facilitated ; but those who journey " in search of the picturesque," may think that it brings them too close to the water. And thus it will often happen where roads are diverted for the convenience of travellers, that they will be less TO TOURISTS. 83 fruitful in prospsects. After passing through the finely diversified vale of Grasmere, we come to a hill which no deviation can avoid, — Dunmail liaise 720 feet above the level of the sea, being the lowest pass through that mountain chain which extends from Black Combe into the county of Durham ; each of the two great roads over Shap fells and Stainmoor being nearly double that elevation. On the highest part of the road a large heap of stones marks the boundary of Westmor- land and Cumberland, here the lofty Skiddaw shews his venerable head in the distance ; and presently a view of Thirlmere or Leathes 1 Water is obtained. After passing the small inn and Chapel of Wythburn, and approaching the margin of the lake, Helvellyn is upon the right ; but the road lies so near its base, that the full height of the mountain cannot be seen. A little beyond the sixth mile-stone from Keswick, the summit of 1 Skiddaw again appears to the left of the wooded hill called Great How ; to the right of which, and more in front, is a delightful view of the vale of Legberthwaite, through which the road leads ; a continuation of this valley northward takes the names of Fornside, and Wanthwaite, together constituting what is called St. John's Vale ; be- yond which the lofty Saddleback, with its furrowed front, closes the scene. A road turns off on the 84 GENERAL DIRECTIONS right towards Threlkeld, and passes under the bold castle-like rock of Green Crag, sometimes called the Castle rock of St. John's. The Kes- wick road inclines to the left, and surmounting the cultivated ridge called Castlerigg, there is a full view of Derwent Lake, with part of that of Bas- senthwaite, the town and vale of Keswick, with its surrounding mountains. It was here, that Mr. Gray on leaving Keswick, found the scene so enchanting, that he " had almost a mind to have gone back again." From Ambleside to Keswick is 16 miles and a half. From Penrith, by Ullswater to Patterdale. — Those who approach the lakes, by the way of Penrith, may visit Ullswater from thence ; either driving the length of the lake to Patterdale, or taking a boat at Pooley Bridge. On every reach of the lake, the prospects improve in grandeur as the traveller advances towards the mountains. At Hallsteads, on a fine promontory, with beauti- fully undulating grounds, Mr. Marshall has built an elegant house. About Lyulph's Tower, (a hunting seat built by the late Duke of Norfolk,) the views are excellent, and Airey Force may be seen by application to the keeper, who resides here. Glencoin is a farm placed in a sweet re- cess, where a brook divides the counties of Cum- TO TOURISTS. 85 berland and Westmorland. At the foot of Glen- ridding, the Rev. Mr. Askew has a tasteful cot- tage ; and towards the foot of Grisedale, stands a stately fabric built upon the site of the ancient Patterdale Hall. The inn at Patterdale is a little above the head of the lake, and opposite to it, on the side of Place Fell, there is a slate quarry ex- cavated to a considerable extent ; from the banks of which you have a grand view of the mountains and part of the lake ; the highest point of Helvel- lyn may be just seen from hence, or from Lyulph's Tower ; but not from any place nearer the inn. From Penrith to the inn at Patterdale is 15 miles; from whence the party may either return to Pen- rith, or proceed over Kirkstone to Ambleside, 10 miles. Hawes Water. This lake, on account of its distance from the main roads, is often omitted in the tour ; but such as are desirous, may visit it from Penrith, by Eamont Bridge. Turning to the right at Arthur's Round Table, between the rivers Eamont and Lowther, pass Askham, Butterswick and Bampton; proceeding as far along the banks of the lake as may be thought expe- dient : and in returning, if on horseback or on foot, taking the track over the common called Moor Dovack, from whence there is a fine view 86 GENERAL DIRECTIONS of the greater part of Ullswater. From thence descend to Pooley Bridge, and for variety cross the river, returning by Dalemain to Penrith. Sup- posing this excursion extended as far as Chapel hill a mile above the head of Hawes Water, or to Mardale Green which lies a little further, the whole circuit will be about 30 miles. But those who take up their quarters for a time at Pooley Bridge, may visit Hawes Water most conveniently from thence. From Carlisle to Keswick. Tourists from the north, when at Carlisle, may proceed towards the lakes, either by Penrith or Wigton : from Wigton towards Keswick, there are some good views over the Solway Firth ; and Bassenthwaite Lake (which some say should be first visited) is seen without deviating from the road — one of the richest views that it affords, being from the top of the hill called the Hause, about four miles after leaving Ireby ; there is also a good retrospective view, about five miles before reaching Keswick. Keswick. Having now by different roads conducted the several parties to Keswick, it must be made head quarters for a while, to examine the curiosities of the place — to enjoy the rich scenery in its neighbourhood — and to make excursions, TO TOURISTS. 87 some of a few hours, some of a day, and others perhaps of more than one day. Keswick has a population of 2000 inhabitants ; its principal trade is in the woollen manufactory ; here are also several manufactories of black lead pencils, and one of scythes, shovels, and edge tools. The principal inns are the Royal Oak and Queen's Head; there are other houses where small parties may be accommodated, besides many neatly furnished private lodgings. Here are two museums, exhibiting the natural history of the country, and numerous foreign curiosities : one was established by the late Mr. Crosthwaite, (who published his maps of the lakes about forty years ago,) and is now kept by his son ; the other is kept by Mr. Hutton, who has for many years acted as guide to the gentry frequenting the Royal Oak inn, and who has assiduously applied him- self to the pursuits of botany and mineralogy, as each in its turn became the fashion of the day. At both the museums and at other places, the various mineral productions of the country are kept on sale. Post chaise and ponies may be had at the inns, with experienced guides for excursions by land ; and neat pleasure-boats with intelligent boatmen for the water. For an introduction to the beauties of Keswick vale, a good station will be found on Castlehead — e2 88 GENERAL DIRECTIONS a wooded rock in the centre of the Derwentwater estate, at the distance of half a mile from the inn ? and rising to the height of 280 feet above the lake of Derwent, which is here finely displayed, with its numerous bays and islands. Lord's Island, near the shore, was once the residence of the family of Derwentwater; the smaller island of Rampsholm lies beyond it ; St. Herbert's Isle nearer the middle of the lake ; and to the right Vicar's Isle, on which General Peachy has a house. The circumjacent mountains of Borrowdale and Newlands make a fine panorama. At the head of Borrowdale appears Great End Crag, beyond it a part of Scawfell with the highest of the Pikes. Looking through the vale of Newlands, Red Pike, distinguished by its colour, rises over Buttermere. To the eastward, Wanthwaite Crags, and Great Dod, form the end of the mountain range extend- ing from Helvellyn. To the north Skiddaw rises finely, and Saddleback may be seen over the trees. Crosthwaite Church is a good object in the vale, and over the rising ground beyond Bassenthwaite Lake, the mountain CrhTel in Scotland shews his head. This may be thought too elevated a sta- tion for the eye of a painter ; but as a general view of the lake, the town, and valley, [it is excellent. Some of the lower stations formerly recommended are rendered less inviting by the too great profu- TO TOURISTS. 89 sion of wood upon the shores of the lake, and upon the islands ; but this rock will always remain suf- ficiently prominent for a prospect ; and in itself it offers a study for the geologist. A walk by the water side, to Friar Crag, at the distance of three quarters of a mile, is the favourite promenade of the inhabitants of the town, and af- fords much gratification to strangers. On leaving the street the prospect is over Crow Park, which at the time of the attainder of the late Earl of Derwentwater, was a wood of stately oaks ; but now a fine, swelling, verdant field, on which races are annually held.. Beyond this the view em- braces the vale and mountains of Newlands, with High-stile presiding over Buttermere in the dis- tance: in retrospect Skiddaw rises majestically over the town. On the left, lies Cockshot, a hill thickly covered with oaks, and a tall silver fir upon its crest ; the trees intercept the views from its summit, but a walk round its margin may some- times be taken on account of the shelter it affords. Coming in sight of the lake, Vicar's Isle is most happily placed, the house just appearing among a variety of forest trees with which the island seems wholly covered; but on inspection, it is found to be beautifully laid out in pleasure grounds, and kept in the neatest order. Along the margin of the water numerous boats are moored, 90^ GENERAL DIRECTIONS some belonging to private individuals, others kept for the accommodation of visiters ; and at the termination of the walk on the low promontory of Friar Crag, the eye is saluted with a full pros- pect of the lake, bounded by the far famed moun- tains of Borrowdale. To the left, near the shore, Stable Hills farm is reared, upon the site where stood Lord Derwentwater's stables at the time his mansion was upon the adjacent island. The Parks, part cultivated, part wooded, occupy the rising ground, over which Wallow Crag shews his massive rocky front; those, with the lands betwixt the town and lake, form the Derwentwater estate, now belonging to Greenwich Hospital. Further on lies Barrow House, and above it the pastoral farm of Ashness ; beyond the small island of Rampsholm pours the famed cataract of Low- dore; and Castle Crag appears between more lofty mountains, like a centinel placed to guard the entrance of Borrowdale. To the right of St. Herbert's Isle, Catbells with a front of lighter green, shelve into the lake ; which is chiefly bor- dered on that side by the woods of the late Lord William Gordon. Looking through the lateral vale of Newlands, Red Pike appears beyond But- termere; and more to the right Causey Pike and Griesdale Pike shew their aspiring peaks. Excellent views of the vale and mountains are TO TOURISTS. 91 also obtained from the Vicarage, from Ormthwaite, from many parts of a road leading by Apple- thwaite and Milbeck along a pleasant elevation at the foot of Skiddaw, and from the side of Latrigg. Those who admire higher elevations, may climb to the top of Latrigg — Wallow Crag — Swinside — Catbells — Causey Pike, or Grisedale Pike ; — and to crown the whole, for once, to the summit of Skiddaw. Round Derwent Lake. A delightful excur- sion may be made round Derwent Lake, either on horseback or in a carriage. Two miles from Keswick, with the lake on the right, a road turns off to Watendlath ; a little further is Barrow House, behind which is a fine cascade. Barrow House, the property of Joseph Pocklington, Esq. a gentleman of Nottinghamshire ; as also that upon the Island, now General Peachy's ; and one at Derwent Bank, afterwards purchased by Lord William Gordon; — were built by the late Mr. Pocklington. His style of building was rather singular, and has occasioned many severe remarks. At the time he first became acquainted with the vale of Keswick it was comparatively little known, and he was desirous of contributing to its cele- brity ; and though his attempts to improve the face of the country failed to meet with general ap- 92 GENERAL DIRECTIONS probation ; yet, his errors of judgment were fully compensated by the liberality of his motives ; and Keswick may long remember his name as one of its first benefactors. Three miles from Keswick is Lowdore, famous for its waterfall ; and a mile further a bridge leads to the Grange, — a few farm h ouses seated on the opposite bank of the river. About these places the draftsman will find em- ployment for his pencil, and the geologist will observe the transition from the dark coloured clay slate, to the more variously aggregated and paler coloured slaty rocks. The river might be crossed here, but it may be recommended to proceed a mile further to the Bowder Stone, not altogether for a sight of the stone itself, (though it is consi- dered as a curiosity, being a large fragment of rock pitched in a singular position,) but more especially for a prospect of the higher parts of Borrowdale which are here advantageously display- ed. Returning to Grange, the road then crosses the river, and is carried along a pleasant elevation above the woods of the late Lord William Gordon, his house standing on a sheltered bay of the lake. From this elevation, the lake — with its islands, bays, and promontories — is seen to great advantage. The road then crossing the pleasant vale of New- lands, joins the Cockermouth road at Portinscale, and reaches Keswick in a circuit of 12 miles. TO TOURISTS. \)6 Keswick to Borrowdale by Watendlath. On a second excursion to Borrowdale, on foot or on horseback, the road by Ashness to Watendlath may be taken : it affords some fine bird's-eye views of Derwent Lake, with Bassenthwaite in the dis- tance. After losing sight of the lakes, the road lies along a contracted valley, by the side of the stream which supplies the cataract of Lowdore. At the distance of five miles from Keswick it reaches Watendlath, which consists of a few anti r quated cottages and farm buildings in colour dark as the neighbouring rocks ; just beyond which the tarn is placed, amidst a small area of green mea- dows, surrounded by wild and uncultivated hills. A track leads from thence over the hill, from which there is a fine view of the head of Borrow- dale ; it then descends steeply to Rosthwaite, whence the return may be made by Bowder Stone to Keswick ; a circuit of 14 miles. To contract this excursion, the stream from Watendlath may be crossed about a mile beyond Ashness ; then, turning towards Lowdore, one of the finest views the country affords is through the opening above the waterfall. Keswick to Buttermere. An excursion through Borrowdale to Buttermere may be made on horseback, taking the road as before described 94 GENERAL DIRECTIONS as far as Bowder Stone : a mile beyond which, at Rosthwaite, is a small public-house. A little further, a road on the left leads by Stonethwaite, over the steep mountain pass called the Stake, to Langdale. Tourists have sometimes been advised, by this track to connect Borrowdale with Lang- dale, in one excursion ; but the better way is to explore Langdale from Ambleside, and Borrow- dale from Keswick. At Seatoller, about eight miles from Keswick, a road on the left leads to the Blacklead Mine? and to Wast Water ; and here the Buttermere road, turning to the right, ascends (by the side of a stream broken into pretty waterfalls,) up a steep hill ; from which there are some fine retro- spective views of the upper parts of Borrowdale ; and Helvellyn soon begins to shew his head, over the mountains of Watendlath. In passing the hause, (which rises 880 feet above the level of Derwent Lake,) Honister Crag in majestic gran- deur is presented to the view ; between which and Yew Crag, the road now sharply descends : both these rocks are famed for producing roofing slate of the best quality. Here the edges of the road are beautifully tufted with Alchemilla alpina, and on the side of the stream is a small vein of specular iron ore. Gatesgarth dale, through which the road now goes, (twice crossing and re- TO TOURISTS. 95 crossing the stream,) is a narrow valley, strewed with large blocks of stone, fallen from the rocks above ; and solemnly shaded by the lofty Honis- ter, which towers to the height of 1700 feet above the vale. We now re-enter upon the same soft clay-slate rock, which we parted from at Grange, and the change is soon apparent in the smooth- ness of the road. Opposite to the farm of Gatesgarth, which is two miles from the inn at Buttermere, a shep- herd's path leads over the mountain, by a pass called Scarf-gap, and after crossing the narrow dale of Ennerdale, proceeds to Wasdale head over a second and higher mountain called the Sail. The crags on the left of Scarf-gap are, from their form, called Haystacks; and to the right three adjoining summits are called High- crag, High-stile, and Red-pike. The two first are composed of what some would call a por- phyritic greenstone rock, the third of a reddish sienite. Between the second and third is a small tarn, described by Mr. West, as "a large crater, that from the parched colour of the conical moun- tains in whose bosom it is formed, appears to have been the focus of a volcano at some distant period of time when the cones were produced by the explosion" ! The road, after passing Gatesgarth, touches upon the margin of Buttermere Lake, 96 GENERAL DIRECTIONS where a vein of lead-ore is opened by the way- side, and a little further upon the left is the neat sheltered cottage of Haseness. From Kes- wick to the inn at Buttermere by this route is 14 miles. At Buttermere, a boat is usually taken upon Crummock Lake, as well for the views of the scenery around, as being the most convenient way of seeing Scale Force. It is an agreeable walk of half a mile to the water, and after a pleasant little voyage of nearly a mile, a walk of three quarters of a mile reaches to the fall. Travellers may in- deed walk from the inn to Scale Force; but the path being wet and unpleasant, a boat is greatly to be preferred. If the weather be unfa- vourable for using the boat, a good view of Crum- mock Lake may be had, by riding a mile and a half on the eastern side, to the rocky point called the hause. After the necessary refreshment at But- termere, it is an agreeable ride of 9 miles through the peaceful vale of Newlands, and by Portinscale to Keswick. Those who travel in carriages to Buttermere, may take the old Cockermouth road, over t the steep mountain Whinlatter, which, in the length of two miles, rises to the height of 800 feet above the vale. After passing the sixth mile-stone, a road turns to the left, which winding round the TO TOURISTS. 97 hill, presents a fine view of the cultivated vale of Lorton, and a distant prospect of the mountains of Kirkcudbright. If the day be favourable for a voyage on Crummock Lake, the carriage may be driven to the inn at Scale Hill, 12 miles from Keswick. Here by taking a boat upon the lake, the mountains are seen to great advantage ; and the party may be landed for a walk to Scale Force, and again, for a walk to the village of Buttermere and a view of the lake beyond it ; then returning the same way to Keswick. If any objection should arise to taking a boat, the carriage may be driven along the banks of Crummock Lake to Butter- mere, (16 miles ;) and either return the same way or through the vale of Newlands where the road is somewhat improved ; but still so steep that it may be necessary to alight and walk for a short distance. Keswick to Wast Water, SfC. fyc. Those tourists who visit Wast Water from Keswick, generally make an excursion on horseback for two days: by which plan, Borrowdale and Wast Water are seen on the first day ; and Ennerdale, Lowes Water, Crummock, and Buttermere on the second. The road up Borrowdale as far as Seatoller, has already been described ; from whence the Wasdale road is on the left to Sea- 98 GENERAL DIRECTIONS thwaite ;* opposite to which on the right, lies the famous Black-lead Mine. Beyond Seathwaite, the road becomes a mere track, fit only for horses accustomed to the country. A waterfall presents itself to view on the right ; and after crossing a rude bridge, the ascent of the mountain is com- menced by a winding path. On passing a piece of water called Sty-head Tarn, the bold and lofty, crag of Great-end, appears on the left ; and be- yond it, in towering majesty, the highest of the Pikes, rendered more conspicuous by an object lately erected in the prosecution of the trigono- metrical survey. Great Gable is close upon the right; but the grandeur of its form is 'better appreciated at a distance. The highest part of the road at Sty-head is 1250 feet above the first house in the vale, and here a magnificent view presents itself: the small valley of Wasdale head appearing as if sunk below the general level, and the sea at a distance seeming to rise in the hori- zon. The lake of Wast Water is not yet in sight, being hid by a projecting mountain on the left, called Lingmel. A steep zigzag track now de- scends on the side of Gable, down which the horses * There is a great discordancy in the spelling and pronouncia- tion cf local names : this is provincially pronounced Seewhaite, while a place near the source of the river Duddon, with the same spelling, is called Se'dthet. TO TOURISTS. 99 may be led ; as it is neither quite safe nor agree- able to ride ; crags of the most grotesque forms overlook the road, and the side of the hill is pro- fusely strewed with stones, in some of which gar- nets may be found imbedded : and in crossing the stream which issues between Gable and Kirkfell, a rock of reddish granite may be seen, where it is denudated by the waters on both sides of the road. Wasdale head comprises a level area of about 400 acres of land, divided by stone walls into small irregular fields, which have been cleared with great industry and labour ; as appears from the enor- mous heaps of stones, piled up from the surplus after completing the inclosures. Here six or seven families have their Chapel of a size proportionate to the number of inhabitants, and in a style ac- cording with the situation ; and what Mr. Gray formerly said of Grasmere, may with equal propri- ety be applied to this vale : " Not a single red tile, no gentleman's flaring house, or garden walls, break in upon the repose of this little unsuspected paradise ; but all is peace, rusticity, and happy poverty, in its neatest, most becoming attire." After passing the inhabited part of the valley, the road approaches the lake, which shews the purity of its water, by the clean blue gravel wash- ed upon its shores. As the road proceeds along the margin of the lake, the screes on the opposite 100 GENERAL DIRECTIONS side form a striking object, and the mountains left behind should not be forgotten; retrospective views taken at short intervals, will shew the ma- jestic and varied forms they assume on being viewed from different points. It has been suggested, that Wast Water would* be more advantageously seen, by reversing the excursion, so that the principal mountain views would be always in prospect on advancing up the vale. As far as relates to Wast Water alone, this is certainly true ; but in what concerns Borrow- dale, Lowes Water, and Crummock, they are seen to more advantage by this route : besides, tourists generally congratulate themselves, on having passed over the most difficult part of the road on the first day. Towards the lower parts of the lake, the shores are more rocky ; and the composition of the rock is changed, from a kind of greenstone, to a red- dish sienite. About a mile after passing the foot of the lake, a road turns on the left to Haven- glass ; and a little further on near the Church, there are two small public-houses, at one of which it may be necessary to take some refreshment, after a morning's ride of 20 miles, and none of the best road. About four miles further, in the village of Gos- forth, a tall column carved with unintelligible TO TOURISTS. 101 characters stands in the church-yard near the road. We have now left the mountainous district, and entered upon one more cultivated, where the prin- cipal views are to the sea, towards which the road seems fast approaching ; and the mountain rocks are succeeded by a red sandstone. The roads from Wasdale, Eskdale, and Ravenglass unite at Gosforth ; whence it is nearly three miles of ex- cellent road to Calder Bridge, at which place are two neat small inns, where lodgings are generally taken for the night. Three quarters of a mile above the bridge, lie the remains of Calder Abbey (a dependant on Furness Abbey) founded by the second Ranulph de Meschines in the year 1134, for Cistercian monks. The arches supporting the tower, and part of the colonnade, are still perfect. But its value as a ruin is somewhat deteriorated by part of its site being occupied by the family mansion of the Senhouses, to whose estate it belongs. From Calder Bridge there is an excellent road often miles to Whitehaven; but that usually taken by tourists inclines more towards the mountains, which however on this side present no very inte- resting features. For some miles the principal prospect is over a cultivated country to the sea, with the Isle of Man, and the Scotch mountains in the distance. About three miles from Calder 102 GENERAL DIRECTIONS Bridge, the two rival points of Scawfell, appear over the neighbouring mountains, separated by the yawning chasm Mickle Door ; and two miles further, the town of Egremont is seen through a narrow vale on the left. Seven miles from Calder Bridge a part of Ennerdale Lake appears in sight ; and after passing the hamlet of Ennerdale Bridge, in which stands the Church and two small public house, the lake is observed from the rising ground in another point of view, accompanied by the grand mountain scenery of Ennerdale, amid which the Pillar rises conspicuous. The road here for a short distance is formed upon the limestone rock, which skirts the mountains. Turning to the right by the public house at Lamplugh Cross, in a mile further you pass between the Hall and the Church ; the Hall is now rebuilt in the shape of a modern farm house, the only remains of its ancient grandeur being a gateway, with the in- scription, " John Lamplugh, 1595." Two miles further, turning round the end of a hill to the right, the small lake of Lowes Water comes in view, accompanied by a rich assemblage of moun- tains. Soon after passing this lake, that of Crummock presents itself in one of its best com- binations ; and crossing the river Cocker, you shortly arrive at Scale Hill, distant from Calder Bridge rather more than 16 miles. TO TOURISTS. 103 If Buttermere has not been previously visited, a boat may be taken upon Crummock Lake, which with a walk from the edge of the water to Scale Force, will make a pleasing variety. In the mean- time the horses may meet the party at Butter- mere, and the return to Keswick be made through Newlands — making this day's journey nearly 30 miles. Those who have seen Buttermere, may save above a mile, by taking the carriage road from Scale-hill ; along which there is a pleasant view of the vale of Lorton, and also a fine view of the vale of Keswick in descending the hill from Whinlatter. Those who think this circuit too much for two days, may extend it to three, by staying one night at Nether Wasdale, and another at Scale-hill. To visit Wast Water in a carriage from Kes- wick, it will be necessary to go by Scale-hill and Ennerdale Bridge or Egremont — stopping two nights at Calder Bridge, and returning the same way, or by Whitehaven. Keswick to Bassenthwaite. This being thought less interesting than most of the other lakes, is often reserved to the last ; but some have remarked that it ought to be visited first, or before the imagination was too much elated by the more prominent features of the other lakes. However 104 GENERAL DIRECTIONS tourists who prefer an easy journey, will find ob- jects to please, in a perambulation of 18 miles . round this lake. On the eastern side the traveller would sometimes wish for a nearer approach to the lake ; but few would think themselves repaid for the trouble of visiting Mr. West's stations at Bradness and Scarness ; there is a pleasant halting place at Castle Inn, eight miles from Keswick ; and from the foot of the lake the prospect is ex- tensive. There is also a public house at Peel Wyke on the western side, where the road being now improved and conducted nearly on a level with the water, is rendered very commodious for travelling, and at some turnings opens to pleasing views. Those who are not inclined to make the whole circuit of the lake, may be gratified in a ride of five miles by the foot of Skiddaw, to a station re- commended by Mr. Crosthwaite, a little above the road on the common at the end of a wood of larches : and in returning (if on horseback) take the upper road by Milbeck, Applethwaite, and Ormathwaite, where some of the best views of Derwent and its environs will be found. From thence either take the nearest road to Keswick ; or proceed by Mr. Calvert's occupation way along the side of Latrigg, and enter the town by the Penrith road. TO TOURISTS. 105 Keswick to Ullswater. Ullswater may be visited from Keswick on horseback or on foot; leaving the Penrith road a little beyond the se- cond mile-stone, crossing the vale of Wanthwaite, and passing over a bleak mountain side to Mat- terdale. Carriages are obliged to continue on the turnpike for more than ten miles. Neither of these roads r offers any thing interesting, ex- cept the views of St. John's vale, and the mountain Saddleback ; till they unite at Dockray : but after entering Gowbarrow Park, the prospect of Ulls- water is presented in one of its richest points of view. Airey Force and Lyulph's Tower lie a lit- tle to the left, and it is then five miles of delight- ful road to the inn at Patterdale. Some who travel in carriages, go from Keswick to Pooley Bridge, and thence to Penrith or Ambleside ; but the want of post-horses at Pooley Bridge is sometimes felt as an inconvenience. An attempt to enumerate all the permutations, that might be made in these excursions ; or all the pleasing points, from which the varied scenery of this interesting region might be viewed ; would be an endless and in fact a useless task. Persons who delight in exploring a country, need only be made acquainted with the outlines : they will feel more pleasure in finding out the rest. ( 106 ) SEASON FOR VISITING THE LAKES. Every season has its peculiarities. — In spring, all nature is in its most cheerful mood. It is pleasing to observe the daily progress of the dif- ferent kinds of trees as they spread out their leaves, and the different plants as they expand their blossoms ; while the feathered choir enliven the air with their morning and evening songs. — In the middle of summer, all is gay ; the heat of the sun may at times incommode, but the length- ened days will afford a few hours for retirement in the shade, and the evenings are free from the chilling blasts prevalent at other seasons. — In au- tumn, the fields, the woods, and the mountain sides, display their most splendid variety of colouring, and the air is often favourable for distant pros- pects ; but the days are somewhat contracted, and for long excursions more early rising is required. — In winter — though deserted — the lakes still ex- hibit the same expanse of water, or else a glassy sheet of ice ; the mountains — whether naked, or partially or wholly covered with a mantle of snow — still reign in their wonted majesty ; the rocks have lost nothing of their grandeur; and the waterfalls are occasionally rendered more striking by the splendid and fantastic forms in which their spray is congealed. THE GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. At the time this essay was first published, the structure of the mountainous district of Cumber- land, Westmorland, and Lancashire, was but little understood ; scientific travellers had contented themselves with procuring specimens of the differ- ent rocks, without taking time to become acquainted with their relative position. Since then, it has received more attention from persons conversant with geological inquiries ; but the result of their labours has not yet been given to the public. Therefore the following observations may still be acceptable to such as require only a general out- line ; and to those who feel disposed to explore for themselves, they may be useful in directing them more readily to the objects of their research. It is a question not fully determined among geologists, as to what rocks the term primitive, and to which that of transition or secondary, ought to be applied ; and it has also been disputed whether the rocks of this district should be regarded 108 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. as stratified or unstratified. It is true they pre- sent little of that regularity of appearance which is observable in the rocks of many other districts ; yet it will be admitted on due examination that they are in some degree stratified. Granite is understood to occupy the lowest place in the series of rocks hitherto exposed to human observation, and appears to be the foundation upon which all the others have been deposited ; in some countries it also constitutes the peaks of the high- est mountains, protruding itself through all the upper or newer formations ; that however is not the case in the district under consideration : it is here only exposed to view in the excavated parts of some of the mountains ; or where it rises so far as to form hills or ridges, they are of inferior elevation. That rock of granite which seems best entitled to the distinction of primitive, may be seen denu- dated in the bed of the river Caldew, near the north-east side of Skiddaw ; and in a branch of the river Greta, between Skiddaw and Saddleback, about 1200 feet above the level of the sea. This granite is of a grey kind, composed of quartz, white felspar, and black mica : it is traversed in various directions by veins of quartz; in some of which, molybdena, apatite, tungsten, wolfram, and other minerals have been found. A variety of granite with reddish felspar, and GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 109 1 which from its paucity of mica, has sometimes been called sienite, forms the two inferior moun- tain ridges, called Irton fell and Muncaster fell ; it extends to some distance on both sides of the river Esk, and may be seen in places almost as far as Bootle, and also at Wasdale head. At Nether- wasdale it becomes a finer grained sienite, in which form it extends through the mountains quite across Ennerdale, as far as Scale Force, and to the side of Buttermere Lake. It contains veins of red hematite and micaceous iron ore. Another variety of granite with reddish felspar in large crystals, is found on Shap Fells, and may be observed in situ on the road side near Wasdale Bridge, about four miles south of Shap. Carrock Fell consists of a rock generally referred to the class of sienite, varying its appearance in different parts of the mountain ; it contains (be- sides the usual ingredients of quartz and felspar) hypersthene and magnetic or titaniferous iron ore in various proportions. Near this a considerable quantity of lead ore and some copper have been procured: the lead is smelted and refined hard by, and yields a good portion of silver. A reddish porphyritic rock occurs on both sides of St. John's Vale, from two to three miles east of Keswick ; and a vein or dyke apparently related to the same, but far more beautiful, (being com- 110 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. posed of crystals of quartz and bright red felspar, imbedded in a brownish red compact felspar,) is found on Armboth Fell, six miles SSE of Keswick. It is not well known what place some of these granites, sienites, and porphyries hold in the series of rocks : from the scarcity of places at which their junction with the slate rock can be seen, it is not easy to ascertain whether they have been deposited upon that substance or protruded through it ; but the latter seems the more proba- ble supposition. The materials of which the great bulk of these mountains are formed, have been included under the general appellation of slaty rocks ; although many of them shew no disposition to the slaty cleavage. They may be classed in three princi- pal divisions. Of these divisions, the first or lowest in the series, forms Skiddaw, Saddleback, Grasmoor, and Grisedale Pike, with the mountains of Thorn- thwaite and Newlands ; it extends across Crum- mock Lake, and by the foot of Ennerdale as far as Dent Hill; and after being lost for several miles, it is elevated again at Black Combe. If we regard the granite of Skiddaw as a nucleus upon which these rocks are deposited in mantle- shaped strata, that which reposes immediately GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE Dl'STKICT. Ill upon it is commonly called gneiss ; but is rather more slaty and less granular than the gneiss of some other countries. More distant from the granite, the quantity of mica in the slate decreases, and it is marked with darker coloured spots ; it is then provincially called whintin, and is quarried for flooring flags and other useful purposes. This again is succeeded by a slate of softer kind, in which crystals of chiastolite are plentifully im- bedded ; these crystals gradually disappear, and the rock becomes a more homogeneous clay-slate, which, contrary to general observation, has its outgoing at a higher elevation than either the granite or the gneiss. These rocks are of a blackish colour, and divide by natural partings into slates of various thick- ness, which are sometimes curiously bent and waved : when these partings are very numerous, though indistinct at first, they open by exposure to the weather, and in time it becomes shivered into thin flakes, which lessens its value as a roof- ing slate. In some places the thin lamina alter- nate with others of a few inches in thickness; which are harder, and of a lighter colour, contain- ing more siliceous matter ; they have been by some taken for greywacke slate, though apparently belonging to a different formation. Rocks of this description have generally bee?i f2 112 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. represented as stratified, and the strata parallel to the slaty cleavage ; but this proposition should not be received without some hesitation. If it be supposed that these varieties of rock (between which there is no natural parting) have been de- posited upon the granite in the order in which they have been mentioned ; then, the strata may be said to be mantle-shaped round the granitic- nucleus; only interrupted in its continuity by the anomalous rocks of Carrock : but if it be as- sumed that the stratification follows the slaty cleavage ; then it may be said to have its bearing tending towards the north-east and south-west ; dipping generally at a high angle to the south- east, and presenting the edges of its lamina to the surface of the granite, from the proximity of which the nature and appearance of the rock must be presumed to be altered. The rocks belonging to this division do not effervesce with acids ; they contain no calcareous spar, except a little in some of the veins. They are intersected in places by dykes of a harder kind of rock, apparently of the nature of trap or green- stone. Veins of lead ore occur in several plaoes ; and have been worked between Skiddaw and Saddleback, in Thornthwaite, Newlands, and But- termere, but one in the parish of Loweswater, another about two miles below Ennerdale Bridge, GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 113 and one below the level of Derwent Lake are the most productive at present in this ^district. A copper vein has formerly been worked to a great depth in a hill called Gold Scalp, in Newlands, and is said to have produced a very rich ore, which appears to have been the yellow sulphuret or cop- per pyrites. A little cobalt ore has been got in Newlands, and small quantities of manganese in various places. A salt spring near the Grange in Borrowdale, has anciently been of some repute for its medicinal qualities ; another has been more recently discovered in working a lead mine near Derwent lake. They both issue from veins in this rock, but their source remains unknown. The second division comprehends the moun- tains of Eskdale, Wasdale, Ennerdale, Borrow- dale, Langdale, Grasmere, Patterdale, Martin- dale, Mardale, and some adjacent places ; includ- ing the two highest mountains of the district, Scawfell and Helvellyn, as well as the Old Man at Coniston. All our fine towering crags belong to it ; and most of the cascades among the lakes fall over it. There are indeed some lofty preci- pices in the first division ; but owing to the shiv- ery and crumbling nature of the rock, they present none of the bold colossal features which are exhi- bited in this. 114 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. Great variety of rocks are included in this division, but their nomenclature is so far from being settled, that, should two separate catalogues be made out by different persons, they would probably vary in a great many items. Some will find greywacke and greywacke slate in one of these divisions, some in another and some in all ; while others ridicule the name as one invented to sup- ply the defect of a better. Most of these rocks are of a pale-bluish or grey colour, some of them belong to the family of the greenstones, some are of a porphyritic, others of a slaty structure ; differing however from the slates of the last division, inasmuch as these exhibit no distinct partings by which they are to be sepa- rated. A reddish aggregated rock of a coarse slaty structure, is to be seen on entering the com- mon on the road from Keswick towards Borrow- dale. It appears to form one of the lower beds of the division, and may be traced each way to some distance. It is succeeded by the more compact dark-coloured rock of Wallow Crag, in which quartz, calcareous spar, chlorite, and epidote, are found in veins. Garnets are found imbedded in some of the rocks on Castlerigg Fell and Great Gable. An amygdaloid rock, containing nodules of calcareous spar, and sometimes of agate, opal or calcedony, is met with in several places ; as GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 115 near Honister Crag — between Bowder Stone and Rosthwaite — on Castlerigg Fell, near Keswick — and in Wolf Crag on the road to Matterdale. A curious mixed rock appears near Berrier ; it skirts the north side of Caldbeck Fells, forms the hill called Binsey, and may be seen on the north side of the Derwent near to Cockermouth. No organic remains have yet been discovered, either in this or the preceding division. The fine pale-blue roofing slate occurs in beds : (called by the workmen veins :) the most natural position of the lamina or cleavage of the slate appears to be vertical : but it is to be found in various degrees of inclination, both with respect to the horizon, and the planes of stratification. The direction of the slaty cleavage bears most commonly towards the north-east and south-west ; while the dip or inclination is more variable ; the former may be ascribed to some general operation of nature ; the latter being influenced by local circumstances — such as the weight of a mountain pressing upon one side, while the other side is wanting a support. The direction and inclination of the strata are more distinguishable by stripes and alternations in the colour and texture, than by any natural partings or strata seams; and the slates are split of various thickness, according to their fineness of grain, and the discretion and * »"•• 116 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. skill of the workman, without any previous in- dication of the place where they may be sol divi- ded. They do not separate into thin flakes, like those of the former division ; but some of them, when long in use, are subject to a peculiar species of decay, which operates most powerfully on parts least exposed to the weather. Most of the rocks of this division effervesce in some degree with acids, but more especially those possessing the slaty structure. They are not very productive of metallic ores, although they afford a considerable variety. Lead ore has been got in Patterdale; copper at Dalehead in Newlands, which is near the northern boundary of the divi- sion — it consists of grey and purple copper, with specimens of malachite. A mine at Coniston, near the southern boundary, produces the yellow sulphuret ; and a vein of the same has lately been opened at Wythburn. Small veins of iron ore are frequently met with, but scarcely thought worth notice. The famous plumbago or black- lead mine of Borrowdale is also situated in this division. The third division — forming only inferior ele- vations — commences with a bed of dark-blue or blackish transition limestone, containing here and there a few shells and madrepores, and alternat- GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTEICT. 117 ing with a slaty rock of the same colour; the different layers of each being in some places several feet, in others only a few inches in thickness. This limestone crosses the river Duddon near Broughton ; passing Broughton Mills it runs in a north-east direction through Torver, by the foot of the Old Man mountain, and appears near Low Yewdale and Yew Tree. Here it makes a considerable slip to the eastward, after which it ranges past the Tarns upon the hills above Bor- wick Ground; and stretching through Skelwith, it crosses the head of Windermere near Low Wood inn. Then passing above Dovenest, and Skelgill, it traverses the vales of Troutbeck, Kentmere, and Long-Sleddale ; crossing the two intervening mountains in the direction of the roads which lead over them ; so that no relation can be discovered between the direction of the vallies and that of the stratification. It dips to the south-east, while the cleavage of the slate with which it is associa- ted, frequently inclines in an opposite direction. Towards the south-east succeeds a series of rocks of the same dark-blue colour, and principally of a slaty structure : but accompanied in places with a rock which breaks alike in all directions. This has supplied a great portion of the rounded stones found in the beds of the rivers Kent and Lune ; and furnishes materials for paving the 118 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. streets, and repairing the roads in [the vicinity. A rock of fine-grained sienite is observed near the foot of Coniston Lake ; and one containing a large portion of mica appears in Crosthwaite. The strata seams are more distinct in this than in the preceding division; but, like that, it is not marked by any natural partings in the plane of cleavage. A quarry one mile from Brathay on the road towards Hawkshead, yields excellent flags for flooring; and they are manufactured into tombstones with good effect, by Mr. Webster of Kendal, and by Mr. Bromley of Keswick. This quarry affords a good example of the stratification (or, as some will have it, the rhomboidal crystal- lization) of these rocks. The cleavage is here nearly perpendicular ; and the strata, being from one foot to five in thickness, dip to the south- east at an angle of about thirty degrees. In some districts the layers are so much diminished in thickness, that slates and tables are formed in the plane of the stratification, instead of that of the cleavage; and this has probably given rise to the notion of two distinct cleavages crossing each other under a certain angle. Roofing slate (called black slate, to distinguish it from the pale- blue of the second division) is manufactured in large quantities in the district between Ulverston and Broughton ; which is well situated for ship- GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 119 ping either by the river Duddon or by canal from Ulverston. The- preference given to the slates from cer- tain quarries as requiring less weight for the co- vering of a roof of given dimensions, depends not so much upon the specific gravity (which varies at most from 2750 to 2800, or one part in 55) as upon the fineness of grain, which enables it to bear splitting thinner. All the rocks of this division effervesce more or less with acids ; they contain some calcareous spar and pyrites ; but little me- tallic ore, except a small quantity of galena, vttik green and yellow phosphate of lead, which has been got near Stavely. Although little difference has hitherto been made by authors between the roofing slates of these three divisions, yet a workman of moderate experience will readily distinguish them : and I have endeavoured to describe the peculiarities of each, that those who are hereafter engaged in ex- amining similar districts may be better enabled to compare them. A conglomerate composed of rounded stones of various sizes, from the smallest gravel, to the weight of several pounds, held together by an iron-shot, calcareous cement, forms a hill of para- bolic shape, about 1000 feet in height, called Mell Fell ; and some lesser elevations extending 120 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. to the foot of Ulls water. These pebbles are ap- parently fragments of older rocks, rounded by at- trition, and must have been transported from some distance, as the majority do not correspond with those of the immediate neighbourhood. This has been taken by some to belong to the old red sandstone formation ; but whether it passes under or only abuts against the adjacent limestone has not yet, I believe, been clearly ascertained. A similar composition appears in the bed of the river Lune at Kirkby Lonsdale, and also in the river Mint from 2 to 3 miles above Kendal, where it may be seen resting upon the blue rock ; and apparently a newer formation of this kind is found adjoining the sands near Humphry head. A superincumbent bed of limestone mantles round these mountains, in a position unconforma- ble to the strata of the slaty and other rocks upon which it reposes. It bassets out near Egremont, Lamplugh, Pardshaw, Papcastle, Both el, Ireby, Caldbeck, Hesket, Berrier, Dacre, Lowther and Shap; it appears again near Kendal, Witherslack. Cartmel, Dalton and Milium, from whence for some distance its place is occupied by the sea, and in the neighbourhood of Gosforth and Calder Bridge, a red sandstone intervenes, so that the limestone is either wanting or buried under more recent formations. It dips from the mountains GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 121 on every side, but with different degrees of eleva- tion ; the declivity being generally least on the southern side. In the neighbourhood of Wither- slack it forms lofty isolated ridges, while the sub- jacent slaty rock appears in the lower ground: and it may be seen upon the surface as far as Warton and Farleton Crags, and even as far as Kellet, before it is covered by the sandstone of the coal measures. A remarkable exception, how- ever, occurs in Holker Park, where the mountain rock is succeeded by limestone, and that by sand- stone and shale, resembling that which accompa- nies coal — all within a very short distance. On the north and west of the mountains, the inclina- tion of the newer rocks appears to be greater and the strata thinner ; so that the clay-slate of the first division is succeeded by limestone, sandstone and coal, all in the distance of two or three miles. The principal mineral production of this lime- stone, is iron ore, which is raised in great quanti- ties near Dalton ; and the mines near Egremont, which had lain dormant for several years, have been re-opened, and yield a good quantity of ore. On external parts of this circle various sand- stones and coal succeed each other, and a thin seam of coal may be sometimes found interstrati- fied with the limestone, as at Hesket Newmarket ; but it is easily understood, that it would be in 122 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. vain to search for coal within this limestone cir- cle ; consequently it cannot be found in the neigh- bourhood of the lakes. Bowlder stones are often met with, far removed from their native rock, but do not appear to have been carried over high mountain ridges. The granite blocks from Shap Fells are 'scattered over a great part of Westmorland ; but are not found in the neighbourhood of the lakes. Bowlders from the sienite of Buttermere and Ennerdale are found on the west coast of Cumberland ; but not in the vales of Keswick and Windermere. The granite of Caldew and sienite of Carrock can be recognized in bowlders in the neighbourhood of Carlisle ; but are not seen to the south of Kes- wick. The famous Bowder Stone of Borrowdale does not come within the present description ; but a large block near Skelwith Bridge on the road to Grasmere — one near Coniston Waterhead, and another near Gosforth, as well as many others of smaller dimensions — are far more interesting to the geologist, yielding sufficient scope for conjec- ture as to the place of their origin, and the mode of their removal. METEOROLOGY. Besides the permanent beauties of a country diversified by hills and dales, mountains and lakes, there are transient subjects capable of arresting the attention of the contemplative observer; — amongst which are — the mists or fogs — forming over the surface of lakes — floating along the sides of hills — or collected into clouds, hovering upon the summits of mountains. Mountains have been supposed to attract the clouds with which their summits are so frequently enveloped ; but it is more to their agency in form- ing them, that the accumulation of clouds in mountainous countries may be attributed. Clouds are formed of aqueous particles' floating in the at- mosphere ; and they serve as an awning, to shield the earth from the violence of the sun's rays in hot weather ; and to protect it from the rigour of a cold winter's night, by obstructing the radiation of heat from its surface. In the clearest weather a portion of water always exists in the atmosphere in the state of an invisible vapour ; and the higher the temperature, the greater quantity it is able to sustain ; so that when air, fully saturated with vapour, suffers a diminution of its heat, the water is exhibited in the form of mists, clouds, 1£4 METEOROLOGY. dew, or rain. It has been stated by the late Dr. Hutton of Edinburgh, and more fully exemplifi- ed by Mr. Dalton, that the quantity of vapour capable of entering into air, increases in a greater ratio than the temperature ; therefore whenever two volumes of air, of different temperatures, are mixed together, (each being previously saturated with vapour,) the mean temperature is not able to support the mean quantity of vapour ; conse- quently its precipitation in the form of clouds and rain, is occasioned, not by mere cold, but by a mixture of comparatively cold and warm air : and on this principle, may be explained, many of the phenomena of mist or fog, clouds, dew, and rain. Different portions of the earth's surface, and of course the contiguous portions of air, are differ- ently heated by the sun's rays impinging upon them in various degrees of obliquity ; and this difference is naturally much greater in a moun- tainous than in a champaign country ; and on two portions of air thus unequally heated, being intermixed one with the other — either by the ascent of the warmer and lighter part, or by a gentle current of the wind — the vapour assumes a visible form. The temperature of the earth, from a few yards below the surface, to the greatest depth hitherto explored, suffers little variation between summer METEOROLOGY. 125 and winter. It corresponds nearly with the mean temperature of the atmosphere ; being here, about 48 degrees of Fahrenheit's thermometer. A body of water, such as a lake of considerable depths forms a kind of mean, between the subjacent earth and the superincumbent air : its surface is influenced by the temperature of the atmosphere, while its lower parts admit of little variation; consequently the surface will in summer be the warmest, and in winter the coldest part. So long as the surface of the water retains its fluidity, the adjacent air never suffers so great an extreme of cold, as may be experienced at a distance ; and the surface being frozen, the water contiguous to the ice will always be nearly 32°; at the same time the temperature towards the bottom may be several degrees higher. In clear weather, the surface both of the earth and of water is warmed in the day and cooled during the night; but in very different propor- tions — the water retaining its heat much longer than the land. It will sometimes happen in an autumnal evening, that the temperature of the air and that of the water of a lake will be equal ; and yet before sunrise there may be a difference of twenty degrees or upwards : in this case, the air above the water being warmer, will contain more vapour than that above the land, and on their in- 126 METEOROLOGY. termixture a mist or fog will be formed ; which will continue to float in the atmosphere till it be either dissolved by an increase of heat, or being moved into a colder region, be deposited in the form of dew or hoar frost. Sir Humphry Davy has observed, that upon some rivers on the conti- nent, a mist or fog began to appear as soon as the temperature of the air was diminished from 3 to 6 degrees below that of the water. This will de- pend upon the previous moisture or dryness of the air, and partly upon the current of the wind ; but a fog is seldom seen on these lakes, until the difference of the temperature is more than 12 degrees. On the disappearance of the sun in a clear evening, a mist is sometimes observed over a piece of moist ground ; where it seems to be formed and for some time kept afloat, by a kind of con- tention .between the heated surface of the earth below it, and the colder atmosphere above ; but the earth not continuing to afford the necessary supply of heat, the conflict ceases ; and the vapour settles upon the grass in the shape of dew. One fruitful source of the fog so much com- plained of in the metropolis is smoke, which the cold air above deprives of its caloric before its contents are sufficiently dissipated in the atmo- sphere ; so that the inhabitants of large towns are METEORLOGY. 1&7 enveloped in clouds of their own creating, and obliged to burn candles at noon-day, while the country enjoys the brilliant light of an unclouded sun. It has been a matter of surprise to some, that a cloud should seem to remain stationary upon the summit of a high mountain, when the air was moving at a brisk rate. The warm air of a valley being impelled up the inclined plane of a mountain side, into a colder region, is not able to support the same quantity of vapour ; and a cloud is form- ed in consequence : and although the individual particles of which it is composed, are continually moving forward with the wind ; yet by a perpetual accession of vapour on one side, and dispersion on the other, the cloud may continue to occupy the same place, and appear to a distant observer as stationary ; although its component parts are suc- cessively changed : and in this manner may the materials of a cloud be transported invisibly from the summit of one mountain to that of another. When a dense cloud settles upon a mountain, the wind frequently blows from it on one side with an increased momentum, while on the opposite side its motion is retarded : and a shower com- mencing on the hills, is generally preceded in its course by a squall : — the air displaced by the fall- ing rain, making its escape along the vallies where G 128 METEOROLOGY. it meets with the least resistance. By the un- equal distribution of vapour in the atmosphere, the visual rays passing through it suffer a variable degree of refraction ; on which account it is difficult to ascertain with precision the altitude of distant objects by trigonometrical calculation. In a morning when the air above is clear and nearly freed from vapour — while that near the surface of the ground is charged with as much as it can contain without destroying its transparency — refraction is at the greatest, objects near the horizon appear more elevated than ordinary ; and some are brought in sight that could not other- wise have been discerned: when a little after mid-day — the vapour being then more equally diffused — the altitude of an object may be more accurately observed. A covering of snow makes a kind of barrier, between the internal heat of the earth, and that of the atmosphere : being a bad conductor, it pre- serves the surface of the earth from the severity of cold in winter ; but in spring, excludes it from the genial effects of the solar rays. In the mean- time the contiguous atmosphere suffers more ex- tensive variations ; the greatest extreme of cold being experienced when the earth is covered with snow. THE FLOATING ISLAND IN DERWENT LAKE. The existence of this phenomenon has been doubted by some persons, while others admitting the fact, have contended that the term Floating Island was improperly applied to this subject ; as it never changes its situation ; being attached by its sides to the adjacent earth under water. Its occasional appearance, however, is ascertained beyond a doubt ; and Floating Island being the name by which it has always been known, there can be no manifest impropriety in retaining the appellation. It is situated in the south-east corner of the lake, not far from Lowdore, about 150 yards from the shore, where the depth of the water does not exceed six feet in a mean state of the lake. It has been said to make its appearance once in seven years, but that is quite uncertain ; it generally rises after an interval of a few years, and towards the conclusion of a warm summer. Its figure and dimensions are variable ; it has sometimes 130 FLOATING ISLAND contained about half an acre of ground, at other times only a few perches : but extending in a gradual slope under water, a much greater portion is raised from, the bottom, than reaches the surface of the lake. Several rents may be seen in the earth about the place, which appear to have been occa- sioned by stretching to reach the surface. It never rises far above the level of the lake ; but having once attained the surface, it for a time, fluctuates with the rise and fall of the water ; after which it sinks gradually. When at rest in the bpttom of the lake it has the same appearance as the neighbouring parts, being covered with the same vegetation, consisting principally of Littorella lacustris, interspersed with Lobelia dortmanna^ Isoetes lacustris, and other plants common in this and all the neighbouring lakes : after remaining some time above the water its verdure is much improved. For a few inches hi depth it is com- posed of a clayey or earthy matter, apparently deposited by the water, and in which the growing plants have fixed their roots, the rest is a con- geries of decayed vegetable matter forming a stratum of loose peat earth about six feet in thick- ness ; which rises from a bed of very fine soft clay. A considerable quantity of air, is contained in the body of the island, and may be dislodged by probing the earth with a pole. For the last quarter of a century the times of its appearance have been as follows. In 1808 from the 20th July to the beginning of October ; in 1815 from the 7th September to the end of October ; in 1819 from the 14th August to the end of that month ; in 1824 from 21st June to end of September ; in 1825 it was above water from the 9th to the 23rd of September ; and in 1826 from the 11th July to the end of September: the uncommon circumstance of its appearing in three successive years may be attributed to the extraordinary warmth of the two last summers. It would be tedious to investigate every hypo- thesis which has from time to time been put forth to account for this phenomenon — with the ar- guments for and against each — some assuming water, others air, as the chief agent in its pro- duction. The following may be noticed as the principal. A small mountain stream which pours down a rock opposite the place, has been employed in various ways to account for the appearance of the island. This stream being lost under ground before it reaches the lake, some have imagined that its subterranean passage might extend so far; and that its usual aperture being in a dry season choked up, the increased pressure on the swelling of the brook by rain might elevate the island. Others 132 FLOATING ISLAND say, that the water in its fall down the rock being beat into a foam, a quantity of air thus mecha- nically mixed with the water, may be conveyed beneath it, and that this air on its disengagement may force up the earth along with it. Others again suppose, that the alluvia of vegetable matter may in this manner be carried under, and by its decomposition a quantity of gas, capable of this effect, may be evolved. While one has ascribed its origin to those internal commotions by which earthquakes and vol- canoes are produced ; another, presuming on the existence of a mineral vein underneath, imagines that by the decomposition of pyrites contained therein, hydrogen gas sufficient to raise this mass of earth may be generated ; and a third, not caring to enter so deeply into the subject, thinks the air contained in the cellular leaves of plants growing upon the island, may be sufficient to give it buoyancy. One material circumstance has however general- ly escaped observation : namely, that the air to which the rising of this island has been attributed, is not collected in a body underneath it; but in- terspersed through the whole mass : not causing it to float "as a reversed saucer would in a bowl of water ;*" but by enlarging its bulk, and thereby diminishing its specific gravity. And the most IN DERWENT LAKE. 133 probable conclusion seems to be, that air or gas is generated in the body of the island by decomposi- tion of the vegetable matter of which it is formed; and this gas being produced most copiously, as well as being more rarefied in hot weather, the earth at length becomes so much distended there- with, as to render the mass of less weight than an equal bulk of water. The water then insinuating itself between the substratum of clay and the peat earth forming the island, bears it to the surface, where it continues for a time ; till partly by escape of the gas, partly by its absorption, and partly by its condensation consequent on a decrease of heat, the volume is reduced ; and the earth gra- dually sinks to its former level, where it remains, till a sufficient accumulation of gas again renders it buoyant. But as the vegetable matter of which the island is principally composed, appears to have been amassed at a remote period, when the lake was of less depth than at present; and very little addition has been recently made by the plants growing upon the spot ; it is reasonable to suppose that the process furnishing the gas cannot from the same materials be continued ad infinitum : but that there must be a time when it shall have ar- rived at its maximum ; after which the eruptions will become less extensive or less frequent. 0^ Mr. Dal ton, in a note subjoined to a paper of mine on this subject, published in the Memoirs of the Literary and Philosophical Society of Manchester, (vol. 3, new series, ) says : " a quantity of the inflammable gas collected from the Floating Island in 1815, I found to consist of equal parts of carburetted hydrogen and azotic gasses, with about 6 W cent, of carbonic acid. The carburetted hydrogen was such, that one part re- quired two of oxygen for its complete combustion by electricity. It seems most probable that this gas is generated by the decomposition of vegetable matter in contact with water ; two atoms of carbon decompose two of water, and form at the same instant an atom of carburetted hydrogen and one of carbonic acid. The carbonic acid, being absorbable by water, is mostly dis- persed, and the other gas collects in small bubbles in the spongy texture of the soil till it is disturbed, when the bubbles unite and ascend in a body. The azotic gas is probably from the atmosphere, by means of water. The almost total absence of oxygen from such mixtures is remarkable." THE BLACK-LEAD MINE IN BORROWDALE. The mineral substance from which black-lead pencils are manufactured has successively been known by the several names of wad, black-caivke, black-lead, plumbago, and graphite. In the pro- gress of chemistry and its application to mine- ralogy, the original term wad, was abandoned, probably in consequence of the same name being given by the Germans, to a substance somewhat resembling this in appearance but of a different nature, viz. an oxide of manganese : the term black-cawke might be subject to a similar objec- tion, the word cawke being applied by miners to a sulphate of barytes : the names of plumbago and black-lead, although still retained in common use, tend to convey an erroneous idea of the sub- ject, as lead forms no part of its composition, which is found to be principally carbon combined with a small portion of iron : and graphite, per- haps the least objectionable term, has scarcely yet obtained currency. This mineral occurs in various parts of the world, and in rocks of different formation. In this island it has been discovered in Inverness g2 136 BLACK-LEAD MINE shire, in gneiss, which is considered as one of the primitive rocks ; there it appears to be intermixed with a micaceous substance and other hard mineral bodies which render it unfit for pencils. In the borders of Ayrshire, it is found in the neighbour- hood of coal, to which it seems too nearly allied : but in no place has it been met with equal in purity to that produced from Borrowdale, in Cum- berland, where it lies in a rock of intermediate formation. We have no account of the first discovery, or opening of this mine, but from a conveyance made in the beginning of the seventeenth century, it appears to have been known before that time. The manor of Borrowdale is said to have belonged to the Abbey of Furness, and having at the dis- solution of that monastery, in the reign of Henry the Eighth, fallen to the Crown, it was granted by James the First to William Whitmore and Jonas Verdon, including and particularizing among other things, " the wad-holes, and wad, commonly called black-cawke, within the com- mons of Seatollar, or elsewhere within any of the wastes, or commons of the said manor, now or late in the tenure or occupation of Roger Robin- son, or his assigns, by the particulars thereof men- tioned, to be of the yearly rent, or value of fifteen shillings and fourpence." By a deed bearing IN BORROWDALE. 137 date the twenty-eighth day of November, 1614, the said William Whitmore and Jonas Verdon, sold and conveyed unto Sir Wilfred Lawson, of Isel, Knight, and several others therein named to the number of thirty-six, chiefly inhabitants of Borrowdale, " all the said manor of Borrow- dale, with the appurtenances of what nature or kind soever, excepted and reserved unto the said William Whitmore, and Jonas Verdon, their heirs and assigns, all those wad-holes, and wad, commonly called black-cawke, within the commons of Seatollar, or elsewhere within the commons and wastes of the manor of Borrowdale aforesaid, with liberty to dig, work, and carry the same, and other their appurtenances whatsoever." In consequence of which reservation the wad, or black-lead mine has been ever since held distinct from other royalties of the said manor, one moiety thereof now belonging to Henry Bankes, Esq. M. P. the other half being subdivided into several shares. This mine is situated about nine miles from Keswick, near the head of the valley of Borrow- dale, in the steep side of a mountain, facing to- wards the south-east, and has been opened at dif- ferent places where the wad had probably appeared on the surface : the rock in which it occurs is called by Mr. Bakewell, a grey felspar porphyry ; near the mine it becomes of a darker colour, as 138 BLACK-LEAD MINE containing more iron, the joints being lined with a ferruginous clayey matter : it is intersected in various directions by strings, or small rake veins, containing in some places a little calcareous spar, and other vein stuff, and sometimes a superficial glazing of black-lead without the substance ; but the wad is only found in sops, or bellies, which appear generally to be formed by the intersection, or crossing of the veins, and are often at consider- able distance from each other, and found with difficulty. Formerly this mine was worked only at inter- vals, and when a sufficient quantity had been pro- cured to supply the demand for a few years, it was strongly closed up until the stock was reduced ; but of late, it has been obtained less plentifully, and the demand being greater, the working has been continued for several years successively. An old level, which was re-opened in 1769, was found to have been cut through this very hard rock, without the help of gunpowder ; and a kind of pipe vein which had produced a great quantity of wad, having been pursued to the depth of one hundred yards and upwards, much inconvenience was experienced in working it : to obviate which in 1798, an adit, or level was begun in the side of the hill, which at the length of 220 yards commu- nicates with the bottom of the former sinking ; IN BORROWDALE. 139 since which time the works have been carried on internally through various ramifications ; a survey of which was made a few years since by the late Mr. Farey. Through this principal level the water now passes off, and the produce and rubbish are brought out upon a rail-way in a small waggon ; and over its mouth a house is built, where the workmen are undressed and examined as they pass through it on leaving their work. Owing to the great value of this mineral, and the facilities afforded for disposing of it in an unmanufactured state, the greatest precaution has sometimes been scarcely sufficient to keep the workmen from pilfering, and even those appointed to overlook them have not always escaped sus- picion ; yet, it is but justice to the present mana- ger, to state, that for upwards of fifty years that he has been employed, he has always sustained an unimpeachable character. To prevent the depredations of intruders, it has sometimes been necessary to keep a strong guard upon the place ; and for its better protection, an Act of Parliament was passed 25th Geo. 2d. cap. 10th, by which an unlawful entering of any mine, or wadhole of wad, or black-cawke, commonly called black-lead, or unlawfully taking, or carry- ing away any wad, &c. therefrom, as also the buying, or receiving the same, knowing it to be 140 BLACK-LEAD MINE unlawfully taken, is made felony. In the pre- amble of this Act, it is stated to be " necessary for divers useful purposes, and more particularly in the casting of bomb-shells, round shot, and cannon balls ;" however, its use in cleaning and glossing cast iron work, such as stoves, grates, &c. is now well known to every housemaid. Being capable of enduring a great heat without fusing, or cracking, it is used in the manufacture of crucibles ; and its excellence in diminishing friction in wooden screws, and other machinery, makes it become an ingredient in several anti- attrition compositions ; but effects have been for- merly attributed to it in dying, and medicine, which were perhaps only imaginary. Yet its principal use is in pencils, for which Keswick has long been famed ; and in their manufactory great improvements have lately been made ; but though in the vicinity of the mine, the pencil-makers are obliged to purchase all their black-lead in London, as the proprietors will not permit any to be sold until it has first been lodged in their own ware- house. It has generally been used without any previous preparation, being only cut with a saw to the scantlings required, and thus enclosed in a suitable casing of cedar wood ; but being generally too soft for some purposes, a method of hardening it had long been a desideratum ; and a process IN BOEROWDALE. 141 has at length been discovered, by which it may be rendered capable of bearing a finer and more durable point, but its colour will be somewhat deteriorated. Great quantities of pencils are now made of a composition, formed of the saw-dust and small pieces of black-lead, which being ground to an im- palpable powder, is mixed with some cohesive me- dium : for this purpose different substances are employed, some of which make a very inferior pencil ; but others being united at a proper de- gree of heat, and consolidated by a strong pres- sure, make a pencil to answer for many purposes, (especially where the writing is intended to be per- manent,) full as well as the genuine black-lead. The specific gravity of the best wad. or black lead, is, to that of water, as two to one nearly : the coarser kind is heavier in proportion, as it contains more stony matter. It comes from the mine in pieces of irregular shape, and of various sizes, requiring no process to prepare it for the market, further than freeing the pieces from any stony or extraneous matter, which may adhere to them. It is then assorted according to the differ- ent degrees of purity and size, and thus packed in casks to be sent off to the warehouse in London, where it is exposed to sale only on the first Mon- day in every month. 142 BLACK-LEAD MINE IN B0RROWDALE. In the year 1803, after a tedious search, one of the largest bellies was fallen in with, which pro- duced five hundred casks, weighing about one hundred and a quarter each, and worth thirty shillings a pound and upwards ; besides a greater quantity of inferior sorts ; and since that time several smaller sops have been met with ; but for the last seven years the quantity raised has been comparatively trifling. By an account published in 1804 the stock then on hand was valued at o£?54,000, and the annual consumption stated to be about £3,500. This afforded a clue to the assessors of the pro- perty tax which soon after came into operation ; and this mine — which 200 years ago had been valued at fifteen shillings and four-pence— was accordingly rated at «£2,700 a year. The con- sumption appears to be constantly increasing ; but how far a permanency of supply can be calculated upon, is questionable. The most prolific part of the mountain may be already explored, and the principal body or trunk of the mine excavated, 60 that posterity must be contented with gleaning from the branches. AN ACCOUNT OF AN EXCURSION TO THE TOP OF SKIDDAW. IN A LETTER FROM A FRIEND. We rose at four in the morning, in order to ascend to the summit of Skiddaw, a distance of nearly six miles. The top of the mountain was veiled from our view by heavy clouds : but we were not to be intimidated by this circumstance ; the barometer was rising, and we were in hopes of their clearing off; besides it was the only day we could spare for the purpose. We were advised to take ponies, but that we declined — naturalists should never follow a beaten track, and we were determined to be at liberty to explore on the right hand and on the left, as fancy might direct us. Taking the Penrith road for half a mile, we crossed a bridge over the Greta, and turning at an acute angle to the left, we slanted by a pleasant occupation road along the side of Latrigg— a hill sometimes designated by the whimsical cognomen of " Skiddaw's cub" — which we were told was about one third of the height of the parent moun- tain ; but, judging by the eye at setting out, we 144 EXCURSION TO SKIDDAW. should have estimated it at much more. From this beautiful terrace is seen a richly cultivated foreground, in which the little town of Keswick is placed in a most favourable point of view ; Der- went lake — finely bordered by noble woods, climb- ing the mountain sides to different altitudes ; the Vicar's isle, most advantageously placed — the building upon it just perceived through the trees which are now reflected by the smooth surface of the lake ; beyond which the southern and western groups of mountains arrange themselves with all that it is vast, bold and dignified in effect and con- tour ; varied however as to wood and rock, and terminated by the lofty crag of Great End, and the mountain Scawfell, now capped with clouds. On the other hand, we observe the beautiful villa of Ormathwaite, placed in a sweet recess, among well cultivated corn and pasture lands, finely decorated with trees. The parish church of Cros- thwaite is a good. object in the landscape, and the flat extending towards Bassenthwaite lake is beau- tifully bordered on the western side by the corn fields, woods, and white buildings of Thornthwaite. Winding round the skirts of Latrigg, we found ourselves risen almost insensibly to a considerable elevation above the plain ; but having passed a sort of hause, which forms the connection between Latrigg and Skiddaw, we now entered upon our EXCURSION TO SKIDDAW. 145 task in earnest, the ground here becoming much steeper, and our road being exchanged for a turfy path. Persons who have not been accustomed to mountainous excursions, cannot form a conception of the toil they require, or the demands they make on the breath and patience of the traveller, and it requires no small degree of judgment and pre- caution to regulate the proportion of pause to exertion, for by too bold an effort to gain ground at the outset, time and strength are often ineffec- tually wasted. As we advanced in altitude, the valley gradually lost its picturesque appearance, and began to put on the semblance of a map ; and spots that an hour before had reared themselves with pride above us, now seemed almost levelled with the plain ; the principal mountains however lost little of their importance, and new ones rose at a greater distance. One of the Pikes of Langdale appeared in the horizon, but its figure so different from what it assumed on Windermere, that we should not, without being told, have recognized it. After half an hour's toil in this steep, we found ourselves upon a soft trackless turf of less acclivity by which our progress was greatly facilitated ; but though our elevation was prodigious, we were not permitted to be amused by prospects, for the clouds had enveloped us, and nearly prevented 146 EXCURSION TO SKIDDAW. our seeing each other ; the effect of so dense a medium in increasing the apparent distance of objects was now so remarkable, that the judgment formed very erroneous conclusions respecting their magnitude — and I actually mistook a large old ram for a bull. There was nothing but the ground we trod on to engage our attention; and we found Empetrum nigrum, and various species of Ly co- podium and Vaccinium very abundant. Following a sheep walk, we slanted along the side of one of the rnammce of the mountain, and presently reached another, which we had no sooner gained than we halted, and proceeded to devour some meat, with which we had prudently stored our pockets. Nothing had ever tasted to our palates so exquisite; our limbs seemed to have lost the rigidity of fatigue, and our lungs to play with unusual freedom. Having finished our repast, we began to rumin- ate upon the peculiarity of our situation : we were lifted three thousand feet above the level of the sea ; but this immense height was of little avail to us — every thing below us was obscured by an impenetrable mist — the sun refused his cheering illumination, and gloom and silence reigned awfully around. We were now upon one end of a ridge which constitutes the highest part of the moun- tain : it is profusely strewed with fragments of EXCURSION TO SKIDDAW. 147 clay slate; among these we found a botanical rarity, the salioo herbacea, which had fixed its roots in the scanty soil. Proceeding along this ridge, we unexpectedly heard the sound of human voices, and presently descried some men engaged in building a large pile of stones around a structure of timber thirty feet high, upon the very summit. They proved to be a party of Royal Engineers and Artillery- men, who had been encamped here for several days, employed in erecting an object to be observed in the Trigonometrical Survey; as the Command- ing Officer obligingly explained to us. Some philanthropic gentleman had caused a small cot to be constructed here for the accommodation of visitants, and on looking in we perceived that the men had spread their blankets on a little moss, and thus converted it into a temporary barrack. The mist at length became so attenuated, that the glorious orb of day appeared through it like a large full moon ; and in a moment the clouds opened and the north end of Bassenthwaite lake — with the variegated country around it — burst into view with the most astonishing brilliancy. We overlooked an extensive plain, spotted with houses, villages, and corn fields, extending to the Solway Firth, both shores of which were distinctly visible with their various indentations, and beyond it the 148 EXCURSION TO SKIDDAW. mountains of Scotland melting gradually into mist. The town of Cockermouth seemed near us, and we could here and there trace the course of the Derwent as it made its way towards the ocean. We distinctly saw the Isle of Man with its bifid summit, and some vessels were observed putting out to sea from the ports of Workington and Whitehaven. Now a cloud, which had been hovering some time upon Saddleback, suddenly transferred itself to our mountain, and we were once more enveloped in vapour which shut the sun awhile from our view, but on its departure served only to supply us with new and uncommon effects ; for by the time we had begun to descend, the clouds again opened southward, and the lake of Derwentwater, with the glorious sunbeams playing upon its bosom as on a mirror, burst into view with the most ravishing beauty ! The basin of the lake appearing entire — -the mountains on its margin and in the more distant parts of Borrow- dale, mottled with refulgence, and others nearer to us slowly stripping themselves of their vapoury vestments — together constituted one of the most noble spectacles that mortal eye could behold. We had full leisure to survey it, for our progress downward was necessarily slow, especially as we deviated from the usual route, in order to visit one of the tt deep chasms that cut the mountain. EXCURSION TO SKIDDAW. 149 When we had reached the bottom of this ghastly and tremendous hollow, we almost wondered at our own temerity in descending into it, so horridly steep were the yawning cliffs that enclosed us. This was not one of Flora's favourite haunts, for our only botanical acquisition was Saxifraga Stellaris, which glittered with the spray of a brawl- ing little torrent that leaped down a rocky channel hung with moss, through which the water oozed from the side of the mountain. But we were ten- fold repaid for this deviation by a prospect of the most fascinating kind, we were in a spot where two rocky side screens cut off all that was super- fluous in the landscape ; our vision was confined to a true painter's quantity — capable of being com- prehended at once by the eye ; but such an eyeful as we thought no mortal had ever been permitted to contemplate ! Beneath us the richly enamelled plain embellished in the most variable manner imaginable ; farms, cottages and mansions, some overlooking the landscape upon planted eminences, some embossomed in thickets, and others seated in the midst of smiling pastures all contributed to heighten the beauty of the diversified scene. The town of Keswick appeared in the best point of view ; beyond it the peaceful lake with all its bays and sinuosities, richly margined with wood, and its islands studding the watery area in the OCT 150 ■ EXCURSION TO SKIDDAW. most pleasing manner ; while the whole was bounded by a superb arrangement of mountains, whose broad flanks were at this moment under the noble effects of light and shade, and whose outline curved into the most admirable variety of forms. It was not without regret that we ceased to gaze upon this superlative combination of beauty and magnificence ; but recollecting our engagements, we hurried on to Keswick, which we reached soon after nine ©"'clock ; and although we had taken a breakfast in the clouds we were fully ready^ for another at our inn. THE END. KO BT i. FO*T£K. S.IR.KBY LOSSDALJC, LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 022 122 754 2 HBP m EtfSfl