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Garden Helps 
 
 BY 
 
 GEORGE P. HALL 
 
 President of the Little Ltiiuiers Coiony, S(in Ysidro. Cal. 
 
 Press of 
 ELITE PRINTING COMPANY 
 
 837 Se-veiith St., -'fgig"- Saii Diti^o, Cal. 
 
Co 
 
 
 Dedicated to the 
 
 San Diego Floral Association 
 
 and 
 
 California Garden 
 
 CCI.A297075 
 
Copyright 1911 
 George P. Hall, San Diego, Cal. 
 
George P. Hall 
 
Mr. George P. Hall, the author of this book, has the two 
 qualities needed to make it valuable. 
 
 First, he has knowledge both theoretical and practical; second, 
 he has a great love for men, for the soil, for trees and for fruits 
 and flowers. 
 
 I should not care to trust a work of this kind in the hands 
 of a man whose knowledge, however large, was not warmed by 
 genuine interest in the welfare of those who till the soil either 
 for pleasure or profit. I know that in writing it Mr. Hall's 
 dominating idea is that he may help many men and women to 
 gain an independence, to lead better, fuller, richer lives. 
 
 Coming to California twenty years ago, Mr. Hall almost im- 
 mediately became a factor of importance in the horticultural life 
 of the state. He exerted a very powerful influence in the develop- 
 ment of the lemon industry, devising methods of planting, prun- 
 ing and spraying that have been generally adopted. 
 
 He served for six years as Horticultural Commissioner of 
 San Diego County and was chosen president of the State Board 
 of Horticultural Commissioners. 
 
 Through his contributions to newspapers and magazines he 
 has been and still is, "guide, philosopher and friend" of great 
 numbers all over the United States. 
 
 His work for the Little Landers of San Ysidro, of which he 
 is president, can not be estimated now nor perhaps for many 
 years. The location of the colony was selected from many offer- 
 ings upon his advice as an expert. He was consulted about every 
 detail of the scheme of cultivation, of village improvement and 
 of social life when the colony had existence only on paper. 
 
 When the settlement was l)egun, his was the first hoe that 
 struck the ground. What he has since done is prodigious, but 
 what he has inspired is infinitely more. The point for the readers 
 of this book is that the event has shown the soundness of his 
 knowledge and judgment in certain radical departures from old 
 ruts and that his wisdom on matters treated in the following 
 pages has been repeatedly vindicated. 
 
 His authority on matters of horticulture and agriculture is 
 beyond question, while the spirit in which he works is — well, 
 I know no word for it except "divine". 
 
 WM. E. SMYTHE. 
 
 San Ysidro, Calif., April 10th, 1911. 
 
, Table of Contents 
 
 Foreword — Gardening in Califor- 
 nia 9-10 
 
 Soil 11-22 
 
 Formation 11 
 
 Subsoil 11 
 
 Classification 13 
 
 Composition 15 
 
 Mineral Substances 16 
 
 Endurance Measure of Land 
 
 and Water 21 
 
 Planting- 23-31 
 
 Time to Plant 23 
 
 Planting- Tables 21 
 
 Sowing' and Transplanting 26 
 
 Environment 27 
 
 Rotation of Crops 2!) 
 
 Irrigation and Cultivation 31-38 
 
 Wlien to Irrigate 31 
 
 How Much to Irrigate 32 
 
 How to Irrigate 33 
 
 Importance of Cultivation 37 
 
 Cultural Directions for Vege- 
 tables 33-70 
 
 Articliolies 4U 
 
 Asparagus 38 
 
 Beans 40 
 
 Beets 42 
 
 Borecole 52 
 
 Broccoli 43 
 
 Cabbag-e 43 
 
 Capers 4 8 
 
 Cauliflower . . . .' 43 
 
 Cardoon 48 
 
 Carrots 4 1 
 
 Celeriac 48 
 
 Celery 4 7 
 
 Chervil 45 
 
 Chicory 46 
 
 Chives 45 
 
 Ciboule 45 
 
 Collards 4(i 
 
 Corn 4 9 
 
 Corn Salad 4 6 
 
 Cress 4(i 
 
 Cucumbers 50 
 
 Dandelion 51 
 
 Egg Plant 51 
 
 Endive 51 
 
 Garlic 5 2 
 
 Gumbo 5(; 
 
 Horseradish 52 
 
 Kale 5 2 
 
 Lettuce 52 
 
 Melons 53 
 
 Mushrooms 55 
 
 Okra 56 
 
 Onions 5 6 
 
 Parsley 58 
 
 Parsnips 5 8 
 
 Peas 5 
 
 Pie Plant 65 
 
 Peppers GO 
 
 Potatoes 61 
 
 Pumpkin 6:! 
 
 Radishes 6 1 
 
 Rhubarb 65 
 
 Roselle 66 
 
 Salsify 66 
 
 Sorrel (57 
 
 Spinach 66 
 
 Squashes 6 7 
 
 Sweet Potatoes 6 4 
 
 Tomatoes 67 
 
 Turnips 7(i 
 
 Vegetable Oyster 6 6 
 
 Aromatic and Medicinal Herbs. 71-72 
 
 Anise 71 
 
 Caraway 71 
 
 Catnip 71 
 
 Coriander 71 
 
 Dill 71 
 
 Horehound 72 
 
 Lavender 72 
 
 Rosemary 72 
 
 Sage 72 
 
 Sweet Basil 71 
 
 Sweet Fennel 72 
 
 Sweet Marjoram 72 
 
 Thyme 7 2 
 
 Wormwood 72 
 
 Flowering Plants and Shrubs . . . 73-77 
 
 Carnation 76 
 
 Novelties 75 
 
 Ornamental Trees 74 
 
 Palms 74 
 
 Roses 75 
 
 Shrubs that enjoy sea winds... 74 
 
 Street Trees 74 
 
 Tea Roses 76 
 
 Other Flowers 76 
 
 Classification and Propagation. .78-36 
 
 Best Known Families 78 
 
 Pollenization and Hybridizing. . 82 
 Multiplication by Cuttings 86 
 
 Fertilization 87-101 
 
 Analysis of Fertilizers 87 
 
 Availability of Fertilizer.s 89 
 
 Commerical Valuation 95 
 
 Formulas 99 
 
 Mineral Phosphates 91 
 
 Nitrate of Soda — use of 99 
 
 Nitrogen Culture 100 
 
 Phosphates 8 9 
 
 Potash Manures 93 
 
 Soil Inoculation 100 
 
 Superphosphates 91 
 
 Unit System in Fertilizers 95 
 
 Value of Farm Manures 96 
 
 What the Plant Takes from the 
 
 Soil 96 
 
 What the Plant Wants 98 
 
 Insecticides and Fungicides . . 102-108 
 
 Aquis Ammonia Solution 105 
 
 Arsenites 104 
 
 Bi Sulphide of Carbon. . . .• 105 
 
 Bordeaux Mixture 105 
 
 Buhac 107 
 
 Copper Solution 105 
 
 Corrosive Sublimate 106 
 
 Hot Water 107 
 
 Insecticides 102 
 
 Kerosene Emulsion 104 
 
 Lime Sulphur and Salt 106 
 
 Lye and Sulphur 106 
 
 Paris Green 104 
 
 Repellants 103 
 
 Road Dusi 106 
 
 Tobacco . . . , 10 7 
 
 Eeniedies for Each Particular 
 
 Pest 108-113 
 
 Angle Worm i OS 
 
 Ants i(»8 
 
 Apliis or Plant Lice 108 
 
 Caterpillar^! i o i 
 
 Cut Worms no 
 
 Pod Rust ... 1 1 
 
 Beet Diseases m 
 
 Mildew Ill 
 
 Fungus Ill,' 
 
 Calendar of Operations 113-115 
 
 UsefiTl Information 116-119 
 
 Reference Talile li'ii 
 
The author undertakes this work in the same spirit in which 
 for many years he has orally or through the medium of varied 
 publications answered questions that have now and again pre- 
 sented themselves in the minds of the people who have been set- 
 tling in this "garden spot of the world". Multitudes come to 
 visit only, but the attractions prove too alluring. Every season 
 therefore witnesses the arrival of those who cannot really make 
 a home here without adding to the number of our picturesque 
 gardens. 
 
 So widely do the methods of gardening here diilfer from the 
 practices of the States East of the Rockies that many people find 
 they have to begin anew. This work is planned as an ever-ready 
 assistant to the home gardener especially. l)ut it will be found 
 of value to the commercial gardener as well. It is the response 
 to frequent requests for placing in accessible form at a moderate 
 price facts and methods in regard to cultivation of garden and 
 field crops. 
 
 The variety of questions that appear in the columns provided 
 for the purpose in newspapers as well as in the periodicals more 
 especially devoted to horticulture is of itself indicative of the 
 need of such a work. Every gardener is more or less desir(nis 
 of knowing his own garden and of fathoming its possibilities. 
 He asks about his soil, what it needs to improve it, the action of 
 the various chemical substances he may apply and how he may 
 supply the foods to the best advantage. lie asks about his seeds 
 and plants, their origin and surroundings, their habits, their 
 sowing and transplanting, their irrigation and cultivation, their 
 rotation and succession, their enemies and the remedies. 
 
 He asks how he may get all that is possible from the manipu- 
 lation of the combination of seed and soil. He asks many other 
 questions in order to work the soil intelligently and receive re- 
 turns from the labor bestowed. We give positive information 
 along practical lines secured from the highest authorities and 
 years of observation, experience and appropriation. 
 
 This is a widely spreading theme that should interest thou- 
 sands who are yet to be the tillers of the soil. We have but 
 
10 GARDENHELPS 
 
 touched the hem of the great garment Nature has spread out for 
 us to wear. Every student of life not only wonders, but worships, 
 as he gets closer to Nature. How important it is for all to extend 
 the knowledge of the primal source of all life. Mother Earth is 
 the great repository of life. The doctrine of reciprocity is uni- 
 versal. Intellect is dependent on animal sustenance. If the body 
 does not receive from the animal and vegetable the proteids, 
 albumenoids and fats, the chain of destiny is broken. The cow 
 picks up the cream from the vegetable either in growing grass or 
 bolted grain. If the soil is not fed it will not feed you. If the 
 soil is constantly depleted and no return is made for what is taken 
 awa.y it becomes barren and unfruitful. How important is it, 
 then, to nourish the soil and replenish what we so carelessly de- 
 rive from it for our own sustenance. We can see now the value 
 to the world of men like Luther Burbank in searching out what 
 a plant or a tree takes from the soil and what improvement can 
 be made in the plants themselves. 
 
 In California, where potatoes and peas are planted every 
 month of the year, where corn bears longer than in the great corn 
 centers of the world, and where numerous frostless locations pre- 
 sent unsurpassed facilities for gardening in all its branches — 
 here especially should every encouragement and incentive be 
 given to further the study of Nature. Here should the doctor 
 apply his best efforts to open the eyes of mankind to the boundless 
 stores of Nature, largely allowed to remain undeveloped hitherto 
 in our blindness. 
 
 Here, it is true, are the desert and the parched ground. But 
 the old Jewish prophecy may yet find a more literal fulfilment 
 in California than ever dreamed of among the hanging gardens 
 of Babylon, when we see the parched ground become pools of 
 vi^ater and the desert rejoice and blossom as the rose. 
 
 In California, every gardener may be a Solomon. Ilis ships 
 l)ring the wealth of the world to his door, (superphospates from 
 the Carolina rock, potash from the inexhaustible sources in 
 Strassfurt, Germany) and the queens of Sheba declare the half has 
 never been told of all his beauties, rich and rare. 
 
Formation 
 
 8oil is the term applied to that part of the earth's surface 
 that can be cultivated aud ou which plants can grow. 
 
 Soil is obtained directly and indirectly from the decay of 
 rock. If all the soil were removed from the earth the part left 
 would be rocks and water. Soil depends largely in quality on the 
 kind of rocks it was made from. Rocks have been formed by the 
 action of fire or water; those formed by fire are called igneous, 
 those compressed by water are aqueous. 
 
 The igneous rocks furnish to the soil silica and aluminum 
 principally and also potash, lime, magnesia, iron and other min- 
 eral substances. You can see from this why soils are "spotted", 
 or why one spot contains more mineral than another, or of a dif- 
 ferent kind. If it happens that a large piece of potassic rock gets 
 groiuul up in a certain spot, you get excess of alkali. These are 
 called primary, or first rocks because they were thrown out from 
 the interior of the earth. This view is supported by the fact that 
 the lava now ejected from volcanos resembles "trap"' rocks. Trap 
 rock is composed chiefly of two minerals, feldspar and hornblend. 
 Feldspar is particularly rich in potash but poor in lime and mag- 
 nesia. Hornblend is poor in potash and soda, rich in lime and 
 magnesia. Granite rocks consist chiefly of quartz, feldspar and 
 mica. Quartz is almost pure silica — ifint — and contains nearly all 
 the compounds found in feldspar and hornblend. 
 
 Aqueous rocks are formed from the minerals washed out of and 
 compressed from the igneous rocks. Limestone and sandstone 
 are examples of aqueous rocks. 
 
 Briefly stated this gives you the origin or sources of the dif- 
 ferent soils you come in contact with. 
 
 Subsoil 
 
 This may be considered as imperfected soil. It represents a 
 stage between the rock and the perfected soil. Soil is more finely 
 divided, less compact and mixed with organic and vegetable mat- 
 ter. The subsoil is the feeder of the soil and gradually supplies 
 
12 GARDENHELPS 
 
 the mineral parts the soil gives to the plants. Subsoil very ma- 
 terially determines the character of the soil. Air, temperature, 
 water all play their part in reducing rocks to soil. The most 
 powerful agent is water, as it acts both mechanically and chemi- 
 cally, being charged with acids or salts by flowing over rocks 
 composed of either. The carbonic acid in the water absorbed 
 from the atmosphere is a solvent of soda, potash, silica and iron, 
 all of which are taken up by growing vegetation. 
 
 Growth of plants aids in rotting the rocks, the roots pene- 
 trate and force particles of rock to separate. In the decay of 
 plants soil is kept moist, gases are generated, absorbed by the 
 water and again penelrate the rocks to reduce them to smaller 
 particles. Rocks covered with lichens and lower orders of plants 
 are evidence of this principle of plant life being a means of re- 
 ducing the rock to soil. 
 
 The overflow of rivers is an example of the creation of what is 
 called "sedimentary deposit", and where pressure and heat are 
 applied it forms aqueous rock. If a piece of land is underlaid 
 with sedimentary deposit you know the rock can be surely dis- 
 solved by water. 
 
 Worms and living creatures in the ground aid in preparing 
 the soil for the use of plants ; they also carry down considerable 
 vegetable matter, which aids in the development of the undersoil. 
 
 Rich mesa soils that are comparatively level are superior in 
 that they do not lose their fertility so soon as soils that are con- 
 stantly moving, thin at the top of the hill, thick in the valley. 
 The same causes that are at work to make the soil also unite to 
 change its position, thus giving loss. In selecting soil, either high, 
 level mesa or valley, sedimentary soils are preferable because 
 they are more enduring. They are called "soils in place". 
 
 Transported or "alluvial" soils are those that have been 
 transported from one place to another by action of water. In 
 the past, geology tells us, glacial rivers moved immense bodies 
 of soil into lakes and valleys. Yet sometimes on the upper heights 
 also may be found these alluvial soils, which are generally rich 
 and well fitted for the growth of crops. 
 
 Drift soils can always be told by the presence of rounded 
 rocks or boulders, and drift soils are generally fertile because 
 there has been brought together from various sources a combina- 
 tion of many, if not all the constituents of soil. 
 
GARDENHELPS 13 
 
 Classification of Soils 
 
 Soils are composed of clay, carbonate of lime, mineral and 
 vegetable substances and are classed as sand, clay, lime and peat. 
 These have snb-divisions according as the composition is more or 
 less of a prevailing ingredient. 
 
 (a) Sand is not soil really, for sand alone would not directly 
 serve as a source of plant food. "So poor it won't raise beans," is 
 sometimes said of sand. Sand is" really silica or ground-up flint, 
 and alone would be unserviceable in producing crops. Chemi- 
 cally, sand or silica is composed of the mineral silicon united 
 wih the element oxygen and does not serve directly as food for 
 plants. But it is almost indispensable, as it lightens heavy soil. 
 makes close grained soil permeable to air, moisture and warmth; 
 all requisites for the successful growth of the plant. 
 
 (b) Clay soils, which are a compound of aluminum and 
 oxygen, are, chemically speaking, just as useless as sand as a 
 source of plant food. Clay is exactly the reverse of sand, as it is 
 compact. Sand will easily fall apart; clay, especially when moist, 
 adheres so firmly it can be moulded into brick and tile. Sand, 
 from its porous nature, rapidly loses water, while clay retains it. 
 Sand absorbs heat and soon dries, while clay is so compact it is 
 difficult for the air to penetrate, or warmth to reach down lieneath 
 the surface. Clay is hard to work. Unless it is well drained, its 
 crops will suifer two ways, too wet and too dry. In the latter case. 
 the land becomes so hard it is difficult for the roots to penetrate. 
 If clay and sand are mixed it makes a loam that is ideal physi- 
 cally for nearly all purposes in plant growth. 
 
 (c) Lime, calcareous or chalky soils are so termed when 
 they contain at least twenty percent, of lime. These soils are 
 generally easy to work and when mixed with clay form what in 
 California is termed "mealy adobe", in contrast to the black 
 adobe that lacks lime to the extent of twenty per cent. These 
 soils are particularly adapted to grain raising, since all cereals 
 enjoy a good proportion of lime in order to form the stalk of the 
 grain. Lime is likewise required by animals to form the bones. 
 And again, ground bones are an excellent substitute for lime where 
 it is lacking in the soil. 
 
 (d) Vegetable soils are usually found in the vicinity of 
 marshes and lagoons or former lakes which have dried up and 
 
14 GARDEN HELPS 
 
 left the vast aecninulation of decayed vegetable matter as the 
 foundation for plant growth. These soils are very rich and are 
 especially adapted for crops like celery, which require unusually 
 rich soil. For most crops, however, the peat needs an admixture 
 of other soil to make it ideal for all purposes of the agriculturist, 
 as there is almost an entire lack of the mineral constituents found 
 in other soils. 
 
 (e) Loam. 8oil composed of a mixture of clay and sand is 
 called loam, and is best adapted to the purposes of farming and 
 gardening. If soil contains only from ten to twenty per cent, of 
 clay it is called sandy loam; if from twenty to thirt}^ per cent, 
 clay, it is called loam. If the clay is in nearly equal proportion, 
 from thirty to fifty per cent, it is clay loam. Gravel and lime 
 loams are those which contain gravel or coarse lime and sand in 
 large proportion. All the natural divisions of soil are much im- 
 proved for the use of the gardener according as they more nearly 
 approach the division called loam. 
 
 (f) Perfect Soil. A soil that contains sufficient proportion 
 of sand to freely admit air, warmth and moisture, in proportion 
 so it will be warm and permeable ; sufficient clay to keep it cool, 
 to prevent rapid washing away or leaching of the moisture and the 
 fertilizers added from time to time, and to prevent rapid evapora- 
 tion and thus assist in the decay of vegetable matter in the soil, 
 is perfect soil. These conditions are rare in the make-up of soils. 
 
 It often occurs that it is cheaper to raise only that crop to 
 which a particular piece of soil is adapted than attempt the ex- 
 pense of changing the make-up of the soil. In garden operations, 
 the latter is admissible and even profitable. If the soil is poor 
 and contains nothing but sand, it can be enriched by the addition 
 of clay or peat. Clay that is too sticky and tenacious to work 
 freely can be changed by mixing lime and sand, or plaster, rough- 
 age of almost any material that will change its constituent parts. 
 It would l)e unwise, however, to attempt to change large bodies of 
 soil, that are only adapted to raising grain or grasses, to the use 
 for intensive gardening; better move to a spot that suits your pur- 
 pose than try to change large fields to meet your convenience. 
 
 Soils are called warm or cold, light or heavy. In warm soils 
 the particles lie loosely together and readily admit air, warmth 
 and moisture. They are also light because the particles can be 
 easily moved, readily changed from one position to another. 
 
GARDENHELPS 15 
 
 Heavy soils are eonipai't, tenaeions, adhesive. They admit water 
 slowly, but retain it for a loiiij: time, making thenf heavy to move 
 when wet, and when dry hanl and un\ielding. Heavy soils are 
 much more difficult to cultivate than light, warm soils, but gen- 
 erally infinitely richer in materials that furnish food for plant life. 
 The heavy soils are usually more adapted to the production of 
 grain and deciduous fruits than early vegetables, which are at 
 home on the light, warmer soils. The purpose for which you de- 
 sire the land to subserve should be the first consideration. 
 
 Composition of Soil 
 
 Beside the qualities already ascriVx'd to soil there are two 
 distinct classes of substances: first. vege1al)le or organic, derived 
 from decaying plants; second, mineral or inorganic, derived as' 
 we have seen from the rocks on the earth's surface. 
 
 Organic substances are composed of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen 
 and nitrogen. The latter is of most vital importance in developing 
 the early life of the plant and is especially useful in the produc- 
 tion of earl}' vegetables. 
 
 Humus is made up of the four elements al)(we described. It 
 is derived in part from the decaying and clecayed roots, leaves and 
 stalks of plants that have grown in and upon the soil, and when 
 decayed and returned to the soil again have given it a darker color 
 in sandy soils, and an improved texture in heavy soils. Humus is 
 useful in all descriptions of soil and is well illustrated in Avhat is 
 commonly known as "leaf mold". People gather it and use it as 
 an improver of soil and say usually it is a direct plant food. 
 Science says that it is not directly a plant food, but in its final 
 stages of decay it furnishes carbonic acid gas. You have seen 
 bubbles come up from pools of Avater where leaves were decaying. 
 This is the carbonic acid gas escaping. It escapes in the soil just 
 the same, but we cannot see it, and this with ammonia added to 
 water makes food the plant can directly take up. Therefore the 
 older and more nearly decayed the leaf mold, the nearer it ap- 
 proaches the condition where it can be called plant food. Humus 
 improves light, sandy soils, in that it gives direct absorbing power 
 to the soil as well as giving it at the same time retentive power to 
 hold moisture. It will absorl) and retain more moisture than any 
 other ingredient in the soil. It acts as a sponge to take in, store 
 
16 GARDEN HELPS 
 
 up, and give off the moisture, thus playing a most important part 
 in making ready the food for the plant in the only form the plant 
 can take it, i. e., liquid. Humus improves stiff clay soil through 
 its property of loosening up and consequently aerating otherwise 
 impervious soil. It will be seen that humus is important in giving 
 the physical quality soils need to enable them to retain heat and 
 moisture, and to supply plant food. 
 
 Mineral Substances in Soil 
 
 The mineral substances of the soil are called "inorganic" and 
 are identical with the ash found in a plant after you burn it. 
 These are silica, alumina, lime, potash, magnesia, phosphoric acid, 
 soda, iron, chlorine and sulphuric acid. The most important con- 
 stituents are phosphoric acid and potash. Phosphoric acid is 
 usually found in combination with lime and sometimes with iron 
 and aluminum but especially in rocks that contain fossils and large 
 quantities of bones. The Carolina rocks from which "super- 
 phosphates" are made are examples of this stored plant food, 
 which when treated with sulphuric acid makes the phosphoric acid 
 soluble in water. When put into moist soil it becomes available to 
 the plant, while in the rock form it never could be. There is a long 
 list of articles that contain phosphoric acid in more or less pro- 
 portion. 
 
 (a) Lime is essential in setting free elements locked in the 
 soil. Lime is obtained from decaying limestone rock, or 
 by the process of burning the rock, and is found 
 in the fossilized rocks that contain animal deposits, 
 as lime has existed in the bones of all animals since 
 the dawn of creation. The use of lime in agriculture antedates 
 the Christian era. The necessity of lime as a food for the higher 
 order of plants has been indisputably demonstrated. Its physical 
 effect on the soil is marked and positive, changing stiff, obdurate 
 soil to tillable conditions. It is an indirect food in setting free 
 other locked-up elements in the soil. Lime assists in the assimila- 
 tion of atmospheric nitrogen in the case of alfalfa and other 
 leguminous plants. It attacks inert combinations of potash and 
 phosphoric acid, and renders their fertilizing qualities available 
 to the plant. Lime both cures sourness of soils and prevents the 
 combination of sour humus that might be injurious to the plant. 
 
GARDENHELPS 17 
 
 Liming mnkes clay soils more friable, and sandy soils more com- 
 pact, thus improving' tlie texture of both. Large quantities of lime 
 should not be used on sandy soil, at one time- — sutticient lime with 
 sand makes mortar — but small (piantities used frequently give 
 compactness. Too nuich lime and wood ashes combined give ex- 
 cess of alkali, which will increase the tendency to make potatoes 
 scabby, if the disease is already in the soil, as it is of an alkaline, 
 erosive character. On tlie other hand, elul) foot in turnips and 
 cabbage is diminished by use of lime. You can apply lime even in 
 large ciuantities on sandy soil if you combine it with the applica- 
 tion of barnyard manure and ploAv it under well. Lime is valuable 
 in reducing coarse vegetable matter to an assimilable form, by put- 
 ting it in the heaps of decaying vegetation or compost. If a little 
 common salt is added the process will l)e assisted materially in 
 formation of carbonates of soda or potash. Plants like lettuce, 
 spinach, beets, onions, melons and blue grass, tliat are total failures 
 on sour soil (as is almost any plant) tlirive vigorously if given lime 
 to correct the acidity of the soil. The use of lime in the soil is an 
 important study as to its effect on both the soil and the plant. 
 Not all plants of the same family desire lime. Fur instance, the 
 Delaware grape is greatly helped by it, l)ut the Concord cares 
 little for its assistance. AVatermelons detest lime, while the musk 
 melon is in full accord. Black cap raspl)erries are not helped by 
 liming, l)ut the red Cuthl)ert responds with vigorous growth to its 
 applications. 
 
 (b) Potash. Crops of all kinds remove from the soil each 
 season considerable potash, which must, as in the case of all ele- 
 ments removed, be returned in some form, if the fertility of the 
 soil is to be maintained. All sandy soils if not underlaid by red or 
 yellow e\ii\ are apt to be deficient in potash. In the early days of 
 farm operations wood ashes were the principal source of potash, 
 and are still valuable in furnishing lye (alkali), but the present 
 source of supply is the Strasfurt mines in Germany, and though 
 worked constantly since 1862, the supply seems to be inexhausti- 
 })le. These potash salts are mined and in their crude state contain, 
 mixed with the potash, other salts that are some times injurious 
 to plant life. The crude products shipped to this country consist 
 of Kanit and Sylvanit. 
 
 Kanit is mixed with a large proportion of chloride of sodium — 
 common salt — with the chlorides of sodium and magnesium and 
 
18 GARDEN HELPS 
 
 sulphates of magnesium and potassium. It has not more than 12 
 per cent, of actual potash, or potassium oxide. Sylvauit is even 
 credited with a less per cent, of actual potash than kanit; the 
 average showing is 16 per cent. Both are not so marked as lime in 
 their physical intiuence. but act on the soil as solvents in certain 
 cases. They are slow in action and must be applied a consid- 
 erable time before any effect can be observed. 
 
 ]Muriate of potash is manufactured from the above mentioned 
 crude forms of potash and from them is resolved an article that 
 contains from 40 to 50 per cent, actual potash. The principal im- 
 purity is common salt. Purity and price depend on the method 
 of its manufacture, which varies with ditferent producers of the 
 fertilizer. This sulpliate form of potash is also called "high- 
 grade" sulphate. For use on certain cr()])s. like potatoes and 
 tobacco, it is very desirable. Fruits generally it sweetens. It is 
 the direct influence in the hand of the Great Artificer that puts the 
 finishing touches of beauty and flavor to the fruit. Without it 
 they all would be insipid and practically valueless. 
 
 (c) Phosphoric Acid. One of the three principal elements 
 that a plant nuist have is phosphoric acid. It is an ingredient in 
 all fertile soils, Init generally is present in very small quantities, 
 and is quickly taken up by the plant and must be replaced by some 
 outside agency, or the soil will degenerate far below the normal 
 standard re(iuired for successful production of crops. Phosphoric 
 acid is usually found in connection with lime and especially in fos- 
 siliferous rocks. While nitrogen is the element that accelerates 
 growth of leaf and wood, and potash is the one that sweetens and 
 makes the product approach perfection, it is the office of the phos- 
 phoric acid to impart tissue and fibre. With the assistance of lime 
 it adds virility to seed and abounding life through the whole 
 structure of the plant. We have said its deficiency must be sup- 
 plied by artificial means, or manures derived from phosphates. 
 Phosphate is a salt formed by the union of phosphoric acid with 
 some base that will make it available to the plant. ]\Iuch of the 
 phosphoric acid in soil is not available until lime is put in the soil 
 to set it free. ]\Iany of the phosphates that contain phosphoric 
 acid are not available until treated, or lie in the soil a long time 
 and become emancipated from the element with which they are 
 united. Bone is a source of phosphoric acid, but a plant cannot 
 assimilate bone until by some means it is softened and liquified. 
 
G A R D E N H E L P S 19 
 
 If the bone must lie in the snil till the action of elements in the 
 soil reduce it, it would be a long time before the plant would re- 
 ceive any benefit from it. So there are ways of reducing the bone 
 to a condition that it may become available. (We cite bone be- 
 cause it is commonly known and the process of reducing bone to 
 food that is ready for plants is similar to that of reducing rock 
 and other material in which there is a per cent, of phosphoric acid 
 sufficient to warrant the expense of reducing it.) Bone is ground 
 and it can readily l)e seen that the finer the particles the more 
 readily they will decompose in the soil and become food for plants. 
 Another process is to acidulate the bones. Plants have no teeth 
 and cannot chew bones. But treat them in a solution of sulphuric 
 acid and the substance ol)tained is readily soluble in water and can 
 of course be taken up by the plant. The amount of phosphoric 
 acid in bones depends on the kind of bones, whether from an old 
 ox or a young calf. The bones of the ox are matured and are 
 richer in phosphate of lime and poorer in nitrogen, while the 
 young bones have the prop;)rtions reversed. The story of the 
 men that buried seven tnm cats under the cherry tree and got 
 only a crop of leaves hints at the proportion of nitrogen in the 
 bones of animals that only have soft bones and a preponderance 
 of ligaments and muscles. Raw bone is estimated to contain 
 22 per cent, of phosphoric acid and 4 per cent, of nitrogen. Bone 
 meal, if well ground, soon becomes available in the soil, but would 
 have to be put in some time ahea,d in order that the processes of 
 soil disintegration might accomplish what you wimld by the 
 cpiicker method of treating the bone with acid. Bones are 
 steamed in order to obtain by-products found in them, as gelatine 
 and glue. The steamed bone loses more of its nitrogen but re- 
 tains its per cent, of phosphoric acid. Steamed bone brought 
 under high pressure to extract the glue and nitrogenous sub- 
 stances, is often reduced to finer particles than when ground. As 
 a source from which the plant can obtain its food, it is superior 
 to the ground raw bone, and may become available in the soil the 
 season it is applied, which is seldom the ease wnth ground bone. 
 
 Bone black, is another valuable source of phosphoric acia. 
 The best bones are selected, dried and then made into charcoal 
 by heating and evaporating all vegetable substances. They are 
 then ground to a powder that can be applied direct and is avail- 
 able immediatelv when the moisture of the soil unites with it. It 
 
20 GARDEN HELPS 
 
 contains about thirty-five per cent of Phosphoric acid and a small 
 amount of nitrogen. 
 
 Bone ash is the residuum of piles of liones burned. It is 
 shipped in bulk from South America, and usually does not contain 
 more than twenty-five per cent of Phosphoric acid. Bone Phos- 
 phates, of any kind are, by reason of the fact that they are ob- 
 tained from organic materials, more useful in the soil than those 
 obtained from mineral sources. 
 
 Mineral Phosphates (containing lime and Phosphoric Acid) 
 are found largely in earth, clay and rock deposits in Carolina. 
 Florida and elsewhere. "Sand Phosphates," from a clay forma- 
 tion: "Pebble Phosphates" from river beds and rock or boulder 
 phosphates come from Florida, but far superior is the Carolina 
 rock which contains as high as forty per cent of Phosphoric Acid. 
 
 Iron phosphate or basic slag is obtained in the process of 
 manufacturing steel when lime is put in the furnace to aid in 
 collecting the phosphoric acid from the molten metal. The cinders 
 when finely ground are excellent for clay soil, also f(U' sand and 
 for grass lands. Iron phosphates are valuable as they are soon 
 made available in the soil. 
 
 As before stated, mineral phosphates require more acid to 
 reduce them, and consequently are not always thoroughly dis- 
 solved. Where there are some undissolved piu'tions, it sometimes 
 happens that when they come in contact with other undissolved 
 minerals in the soil they "revert" or take more inaccessible form 
 than liefore. In computing the worth of phosphoric acid it is 
 I'sually the custom to calculate that all the sources for the reverted 
 portion is supposed to make good at some future time and is 
 simply counted as being "disfigured but still in the ring." 
 
 The diacalcie or reverted phosphoric acid is available, in this 
 way. It stays just where it is until the roots skirmish and reach 
 it. On the other hand well dissolved phosphates flow directly to 
 the roots and act both as host and waiter. 
 
 (d) Nitrogen. One of the most useful and costly elements 
 requisite as plant food is nitrogen. It is largely a product from 
 the air. Of recent years legumes or cover crops, used as green 
 manures, gather the free nitrogen from the air and by the process 
 of nature transfer it to the soil. Peas, some beans, clover, alfalfa 
 and several luemliers of the pulse-pea family gather nitrogen and 
 enrich the soil with the supply obtained and given to the soil 
 
GARDENHELPS 21 
 
 through the roots of the h^gumiuous plants. In addition, nitrogen 
 is obtained from many articles but the principal one is nitrate 
 of soda, obtained from the nitrate fields in Chili. This product 
 when purchased in sacks is ready to sow on the soil and is im- 
 mediately available to the plant as soon as it is dissolved by water. 
 It dissolves like common salt. Nitrogen is an indispensible ele- 
 ment in making early vegetables force ahead, and is required in 
 more or less degree in the production of all vegetal)le products, 
 fruits and grains. It is especially useful in all instances where 
 rapid and abundant leaf growth is desired and is exceedingly 
 helpful to growing grasses, either as fodder for stock, or in giving 
 color and vigor to the lawn. For growing nursery stock it is 
 almost indispensible or as an assistant in growing garden vege- 
 tables. It is generally used as a top dressing, though not in Cali- 
 fornia, when it is expected excessive rains will soon leach it out 
 of the soil. It is best applied in small doses at intervals of a month 
 or so. If 100 p(Hinds were to be applied, it would be better to 
 divide into three equal parts and add after a rain when it must 
 l)e cultivated in to reach moisture. It can be applied in trenches 
 a distance of a foot or more from the row or drill and water ap- 
 plied slowly. It will dissolve and the j^lant will soon receive the 
 benefit. It should not lie put too far away from the plant or it 
 may not receive any benefit directly from its application. If 
 sown broadcast liefiu-e a light rain is would all he melted into the 
 soil; it is an immediate acting compound when water is applied. 
 It should not ])e left in pih^s and Imnches close to a plant as it 
 would burn it. Nitrate of Soda used skillfully is of great ad- 
 vantage to the gardener and of as great value as lime itself. 
 
 E'.ndurance Measures of Land and Water 
 
 One gallon, liquid measure contains 56,000 grains. If an an- 
 alysis of water shows 10, 20 or more or less grains of salt of any 
 kind, it is that many grains of the 56,000 to be deducted from its 
 purity. The deleterious matter, found in the water and generally 
 left in the soil after prolonged irrigation, includes chlorides, sul- 
 phides and carbonates, or common salt, glauber salt and salsoda. 
 Of these common salt is the most dangerous to plant life as it can- 
 not be changed; it is always salt no matter how minutely diluted. 
 The glaulier salt (black alkali) is the next in its proportion of 
 
22 
 
 GARDEN HELPS 
 
 danger to plant life, but it can be changed to the carbonate. This 
 is a less dangerous form (white alkali) which is produced by the 
 application of gypsum in sufficient quantities to neutralize the 
 glauber salts and make them less erosive to the tender bark or 
 skin of the plant. 
 
 The government experiments and determinations are based on 
 the estimate that the weight of an acre-foot of salt is 4,000,000 
 pounds, one per cent, of this would be 40.000 pounds and one- 
 tenth per cent, would be 4,000. We give below a partial list of 
 endurance of plants or the total amount of these cond)ined salts 
 they will tolerate in the acre. 
 
 Name of Plant Pounds 
 
 Grapes 44,900 
 
 Olives 41,100 
 
 Apricots 10,080 
 
 Apples 16,120 
 
 Almonds 28,500 
 
 Pears 20,900 
 
 Peaches 11,280 
 
 Prunes 11,800 
 
 Lemons 5,700 
 
 Mulberry 5,700 
 
 Gluten Wheat 24,320 
 
 Washington Palm 15,260 
 
 Eucalyptus 40,400 
 
 Date Palm 8,820 
 
 Barlev 25,520 
 
 Name of Plant Pounds 
 
 Camphor tree 7,020 
 
 Salt Bush 156,720 
 
 Alfalfa (old) 110,320 
 
 Sorghum 81,360 
 
 Radish 62,840 
 
 Artichoke 42,900 
 
 Beets 59,840 
 
 Carrot 28,480 
 
 Wheat 12,280 
 
 Burr Clover 17,000 
 
 Celerv 13,180 
 
 Alfalfa (young) 13,120 
 
 Figs 26,400 
 
 Suntlower 59,840 
 
m rlanting m 
 
 Time to Plant 
 
 While there is not a month in the whole year in California 
 that von may not pnt seed in the ground as a successor to a former 
 crop or a follower of the same, j'et there are two distinct planting 
 seasons best suited to certain plants, according to whether they 
 require more or less hours of sun. The sun nearly always shines 
 but in some months there are many more hours of it then in others. 
 All sun-loving plants should be given the time of the longest days 
 which are their source of power and growth. It is wise not to 
 attempt to disarrange the plan nature has provided, but follow out 
 as far as possible the intimations of the plant for its development 
 in the season best suited to its reaching satisfactory perfection. 
 If this is not done the effort and best intentions may be unremun- 
 erative and disappointing. F(U' instance, to plant canteloupes — 
 except in the Impm-ial country — in Januai'y in the open, and 
 expect rapid growth and development would be as much an 
 attempt to change the order of nature as it would be to try to 
 raise early cabl)age, in July. Both would be out of the seasonal)le 
 order of planting and in most portions of California should be 
 reversed. The seasons are divided into Summer and Winter, or 
 moist cool conditions for one class of plants and warm dry con- 
 ditions for others. There are a few plants that can be grown 
 during the entire season and by adjusting their environment as 
 regards position and aid of irrigation you have their product the 
 entire year if you so desire. Members of each family of plants 
 are selected for this purpose that will most easily conform them- 
 selves to the changed conditions of temperature, for it is the few 
 varying degrees of temperature that cause the two distinct divi- 
 sions of time to which you adapt the growth of plants. There 
 are a few plants that are at home during the entire season and 
 conform themselves to the slight variations of temperature that 
 occur in the months of December and January. The list given 
 below will give a substantial guide as to times of planting each 
 variety named. 
 
24 GARDENHELPS 
 
 Planting Tables 
 
 Artichoke — Globe, plant seed in March and April. 
 
 Artichoke — Tnberous, plant tubers from February to June. 
 
 Asparagus — One or two-year-old roots, plant from January to 
 March. 
 
 Asparagus — Seed, sow from February to April. 
 
 Beets — Table varieties, sow seed from January to April and July 
 to September. 
 
 Beets — Stock varieties and sugar beets, sow in March. 
 
 Beans — Broad or Windsor, best in the cool months, sow in Sep- 
 tember to December and January. 
 
 Beans — Dwarf or bush, plant from February to April, (early crop) 
 July to September. 
 
 Beans — Pole, March, April, May and June. 
 
 Broccoli — Seed or plants, from January to March and from July 
 to December. 
 
 Cabbage — Early, seed from January to ^March and July to De- 
 cember. 
 
 Cabl)age — Late, plants : March to July ; seed. May to July. 
 
 Carrots— Seed from January to April ; transplant from March 
 to May. 
 
 Cauliflower — Seed from January to April, and September to De- 
 cember. 
 
 Cauliflower — Plants, from Februar}^ to May and from September 
 to December. 
 
 Chervil — Plants, February to May and August to December. 
 
 Chives — Plants. February to ]\[ay ; Septem])er and Octol)er. 
 
 Collards — Seed or Plants, February and March, September and 
 October. 
 
 Chicory — Seed, February to April. 
 
 Corn, Sweet — Plant, from April to August. 
 
 Corn, Salad — January to April and September to November. 
 
 Cress- — Seed, every month in the year. 
 
 Cucumbers — Seed, from April to August. 
 
 Egg Plant — Seed from March to July, in hot bed. Set plants 
 from April to August. 
 
 Garlic — Sets in December. 
 
 Horseradish — Roots, October to IMarch. 
 
 Kale — Seed, January to March, July to December. 
 
 Kohlrabi — Seed, January to April, September to December. 
 
 Leeks— Seed, January to April, September to December. 
 
 Lettuce— Seed, all the year, in summer months, partial shade. 
 
GARDEN HELPS 
 
 25 
 
 Melons — Seed, March to July. 
 
 ^Mustard — Seed, ^lareh to July. * 
 
 Onion — Seed, February to ^lay, October to December. 
 
 Parsley — Seed, January to April, October to December. 
 
 Parsnip — Seed, January to April, September to October. 
 
 Peas — Every month in the year; sulphur in summer to prevent 
 
 mildew. 
 Peppers — Seed, April to July. 
 Peppers — Plants, April to August. 
 Potato — Plant in February for sunnner crop, and August for 
 
 winter crop. 
 Potatoes, Sweet — Plant, ]\Iarch to July. 
 Pumpkin — Seed, March to August. 
 
 Rhubarb — Seed, ]\Iarch to April, Roots from January to ]March. 
 Radish — Seed, all the year round. 
 Salsify — Seed, February to April. 
 Spinach — ^Seed, all the year. 
 Tobacco — Seed, February to April. 
 Tomato — Seed, January to ^lay ; plants April to August. August 
 
 gives winter crop. 
 Turnip — Seed, February to September. 
 
All small seeds, like celery or seeds of similar size, should be 
 sown in boxes or beds, very lightly covered, (not more than three 
 times the size of the seed in depth of soil above them) and the 
 bed kept warm and moist, the liest growing condition, and allowed 
 to groAv in the bed till large enough to transplant. Seeds like 
 cabbage, radish, turnips, beets, etc.. can be sown in rows where 
 they are to remain, but if protection from either heat, cold, insects 
 or birds is desired they are best kept in boxes or beds that can 
 be covered at will, either with lath shutters or cloth tacked on 
 movable frames. Cabbage, cauliflower or broccoli can be kept 
 exempt from ravages of insects, or prey of moths and in a small 
 compass a large number of plants can be raised in vigorous health. 
 Care must be taken in watering plants in l)oxes or small beds ; 
 the tendency is to overdo the matter and keep them too wet, which 
 induces mouldy conditions as Avell as an invitation to fungus dis- 
 orders which thrive best under exeessivt' dampness. 
 
 SoAv the seed in drills slightly indented in the soil. Sow quite 
 thickly, especially if you intend to take out when plants are about 
 one inch high and plant in other boxes or cans, to give them a 
 stronger root force and a steadier growth. Use nitrate of soda 
 at rate of one tablespoonful to a gallon of water in the watering 
 can once a week. 
 
 If you can, reset plants from the bed into bottomless cans, 
 turnips or beets scooped out and filled with well-enriched soil, 
 and permit the young plants to grow in these for a few weeks, 
 then set in the open without removing the plant from its recept- 
 acle, and 3'ou do not for a moment check its growth. Seeds of 
 tomatoes, eggplant, pepper, melon, squash, cucumber or canteloupe 
 put in such receptacle as noted above and started in a warm 
 sheltered place, can be advanced several weeks in growth before 
 being planted in the open, without removing them from their 
 cradle. Transplanting should be done in the evening of cloudy 
 weather, if possible, but if in l)right sunlight small plants should 
 l)e shaded with paper cones. 
 
GARDENHELPS 27 
 
 Environment 
 
 By environment is meant that eondition and siirroundini? of 
 eircnmstanees best snited to the deveh)pment of the plant or ani- 
 mal. A polar bear does not enjoy tlie tropics; the snrroundin^s 
 are all different from its native environment. The banana is a 
 native of the swamp, henee thrives best if given the conditions as 
 nearly as possible like those where originally' raised. If yon know 
 the habit or liking of a plant even very diverse conditions may 
 be tempered and modified so they will become tolerable and even 
 acceptable to the plant changed from its native envirnnmenf. 
 The trifoliafa orange is an example. The orange naturally of the 
 tropics, by being grafted to the trifoliafa, or wild species of 
 orange, may be made to live and produce in climates diverse from 
 its native home. We do not aim here to enter the broad field of 
 plant transference, migration and transfusion, but to show that 
 in a semi-tropical country very nuuiy things are possible by reason 
 of the e(iuable climate, in the line of introducing plants that live 
 in a similar degree of temperature, but under diverse conditions. 
 The banana is a fair example of what might be done by as nearly 
 as possible giving it its environment. We see people raising 
 banana plants ; some have fine fruit and again some have none, 
 from the very same class of plants. Why the difference? One 
 plant is fed liberally with li(iuid manure, is never permitted to 
 suffer for wafer, is planted in a sheltered nook where winds will 
 not annoy and sun will always warm and the plant grows and 
 smiles as if in its own native tropical swamp. It probably will 
 never measure up to the plant in the tropics as far as making a 
 commercial sluiwing, but it demonstrates the fact that good, 
 wholesome bananas can be raised if thought is given to its nat- 
 ural requirement. A lady who tries to raise violets and pansies in 
 tlie heat of the l)lazing sun on the west side of the house soon 
 finds they are short lived and are only a memory, as compared 
 with those raised on the north side of the building along with the 
 English ivy, calla lilies and many plants that prefer shade to the 
 hot sun. Reverse the operation and put the gaillardia, the rose 
 and the carnation in the shade and they will prove unsatisfac- 
 tory and a disappointment. Put our prolific climber, the delicate 
 blue solanum, out of the sun and it loses its leaves and refuses to 
 bloom. The plan of "sticking things out" in any place inde- 
 
28 GARDENHELPS 
 
 pendent of the claims it has upon you for the very best judgment 
 you can supply, is disastrous alike to you and your delicate 
 protege. It is true that occasionally an acorn will split a rock 
 and raise a spreading oak, but the exception proves the rule that 
 it would be unwise to plant acorns on rocks in the hope they would 
 raise a forest, while if you planted them in the soft, yielding soil 
 you would soon see them exceed the rockliound l)rother. 
 
 Before sowing or setting out plants, vegetables or shrubs, try 
 if possible to tind out or understand as nearly a possible just 
 what condition the plant best thrives under, and then strive as 
 nearly as possible to give the plant its environment. If you have 
 adobe, loam and sand in distinct divisions on your premises, 
 select the plant best suited for the place ; cereals or stone fruit 
 for the adobe, vegetables and small fruits for the loam, and for 
 the sand, strawberry, melon, corn and kindred plants that love 
 plenty of sun and warm soil. ]\Iost small fruits will thrive on any 
 quality of soil that has depth for their roots. The plants that are 
 not particular where they are, if only they get plenty to eat and 
 drink, can be put on soil not so easy to Avork. It is particularly 
 necessary- in bringing plants from other countries that you know 
 what are the conditions under which they grow and thrive. A 
 lady recently received a beautiful specimen of the cactus family 
 from Mexico. She potted it and watered it and watered it again. 
 She gave it wet tea leaves, soaked it with ammonia water and all 
 the wet things she could think of to make her pet grow, but it 
 drooped and l)egan to rot. A friend told her one day the cactus 
 grew without any water, save what came sparingly in the rainy 
 season and that she was killing the plant with supposed kindness. 
 The plant was laid out in the sun for a few days and began to 
 revive and from the part not rotted away a new shoot started out 
 and the plant finally became one to admire. It is said that when 
 one of the Esquimaux that came back with Peary was given his 
 choice between a tallow candle or a stick of candy, he invariably 
 took the candle and ate it with a relish. The Esquimaux, after a 
 while, ceased to crave the candle so much, and gradually became 
 accustomed to civilized diet. So plants can be gradually taught 
 to desire changes of treatment and change of country, and the 
 introduction of plants from distant countries is constantly being 
 made. The Department of Agriculture has its explorers searching 
 the ends of the earth to find plants that live in a similar environ- 
 
GARDENHELPS 29 
 
 m 
 
 ent as alfalfa that will produce another erop in colder weather, 
 and another species that will live with only a little water. Plants 
 of all descriptions are being investigated with a view to their in- 
 troduction to our even climatic conditions. 
 
 The whole history is as important as interesting, and as neces- 
 sary to understand and take advantage of, so Ave may get the best 
 results from our investigation and application of the principles of 
 suitable environment. 
 
 Rotation of Crops 
 
 Rotation means not oidy the change of crops, but change in 
 the order of their planting, so the successive plantings may receive 
 the full amount of nutrition in the soil. 
 
 Where manures are applied with regularity, it has been found 
 that rotation is not so absolutely essential, but in the absence of 
 the replenishing power the elements become exhausted in the soil, 
 some nuicli sooner than others, in proportion as the crop takes 
 more or less of its favorite element from the soil. Rotation helps 
 keep up the productiveness of lands constantly cropped. 
 
 If a crop like sugar cane or sorghum was planted and grown 
 previous to planting potatoes, there is little hope of receiving a 
 medium yield of potatoes, because the cane has taken so much of 
 the nitrogen away that there is little left for the potato, which re- 
 (piires both nitrogen and potash in about equal quantities. It mat- 
 ters not that the potash l)e sufficient if the nitrogen is absent or the 
 phosphoric acid has been nearly exhausted. The crop would be 
 a failure and either some crop, like peas, that requires less nitro- 
 gen, must be planted or the loss of the nitrogen made good. 
 
 Some reasons for rotation of crops are : 
 
 1st. It is a means of aiding in maintaining the fertility of the 
 soil. While all crops are made up of the same chemical elements, 
 the proportions in which they are used varies greatly, as does the 
 quantity or proportion they leave in the soil for the use of the 
 future erop. 
 
 2nd. The range of the roots of different crops makes a ma- 
 terial difference. A shallow-rooted plant does not penetrate the 
 depth of soil that the deep-rooted one does, hence its range is more 
 superficial. If a deep-rooted plant had preceded it would find the 
 element it needed had been taken away to a greater depth than it 
 
30 GARDEN HELPS 
 
 could reach, consequenth^ would languish for the missing element. 
 8rd. Crops difit'er in the lenglh of time consumed in making 
 their growth or coming to maturity and the season in which they 
 grow best. The nutrients of the soil are more quickly exhausted 
 in warm than in cold weather, but in a climate where growth is 
 perpetual the process of exhaustion is continuous. An ordinary 
 grain crop will take away mucli more potash than will potatoes or 
 most root crops. AVhile peas and beans take nitrogen from the 
 soil, they also impart much in return that they gather from the 
 atmosphere. Clover, for instance, requires a large amount of 
 nitrogen (more than a crop of grain), yet it leaves a large portion 
 l>ehind, which crops like barley- oats and wheat do not. The 
 knowledge of this fact has led to the process of green manuring 
 in orchards, using plants that, like the clover, will gather from the 
 air, whereby new supply of nitrogen is obtained, and then such 
 plants as require a large amount of this element can be success- 
 fully grown. 
 
 There have been various theories regarding the necessity of 
 rotation. As early as 1556 Camillo Tarello presented to the senate 
 of Venice a better plan of agriculture by alternating crops and 
 letting the "tired soil" have rest. Dr. DeCandolla assumed that 
 plants threw oflt' excretions from their roots that poisoned the 
 soil for a continuation of the same crop, but served as nutrient 
 material for other crops. This excretory theory, while accepted 
 for a time, was finall}^ set at nought by Lebig's ''mineral theory", 
 as it was called, which was quite generally accepted as explaining 
 the facts accomplished by rotation. According to this theory 
 plants obtained their mineral or ash constituent from the soil, and 
 from the atmosphere the supply of nitrogen and carbon. 
 
 The loss'of nitrogen through drainage is less when successive 
 crops are grown, as the plant takes up what the drainage in wet 
 portion of the season would leach out. Intensive culture, con- 
 stantly keeping the land at work furnishing food for the plant is 
 the means of securing the very most from the soil. 
 
 The plan of rotation must be learned largely by experience 
 as quality of soil, range of temperature and physical composition 
 of the field or garden have much to do with the changes that may 
 be made, as well as the crops you may grow. But the unerring 
 rule may be adopted that where you follow one crop successively 
 for several seasons there is a diminution in returns. The lesson 
 
GARDEN HELPS 
 
 31 
 
 is that you should seek the remedy in chang'ing hieation and seed 
 and add those fertilizers which you think have been largely drawn 
 upon and need replenishing. 
 
 In a country that depends a portion of the year on artificial 
 means of M'atering, it is necessary as nearly as possible to follow 
 nature and study her ways so we may avoid mistakes. The nat- 
 ural inquiries you will nuike if you have not been accustomed to 
 raising garden vegetal)les and fruits by irrigation are: AVhen, 
 how much and how shall I irrigate? 
 
 When to Irrigate 
 
 The time to irrigate is before the plant really needs it. At 
 least, it must never suffer for the w^ant of water. It largely d(>- 
 pends on the nature of the soil, whether clay, sand, gravel or 
 adobe, whether on the hillside or level ground, and on the nature 
 of the plant, whether shallow or deep rooted. The top soil should 
 never be permitted to bake, nor to be constantly muddy or sloppy. 
 Nature rains and then gives sunshine. Where irrigation is used it 
 is almost always a fact that the days are nearly all sunny ones 
 and one of the dangers to avoid is sprinkling i)lants during the 
 heat of the day. Nature never attempts the scalding process; she 
 covers with a cloud and then sends her grateful shower. In the 
 case of orchard irrigation or where water has to be run in furrows, 
 it frequently, in fact most of the time, has to be done in the broad 
 sunshine, but the effect is different as the water is seeking the 
 roots of the plant and will reach where there is coolness and 
 shadow, just as Nature intends. 
 
 The pernicious eustoni of running water and flooding the 
 garden or orchard, then leaving it until it dries hard, and turning 
 on the water again and again, as often as the soil gets encrusted, is 
 to be avoided. Air is needed in the soil. As soon as possible when 
 
32 GARDENHELPS 
 
 the land is sufficiently dry after irrigation so there is no danger of 
 making and leaving clods, cultivate or make the upper surface so 
 it is left as a soft blanket to keep in the moisture below, prevent- 
 ing the evaporation that would follow if the trenches or drills 
 were left untouched to bake and dry to the roots again. It is 
 waste of water, time and money to let the sun lick up the major 
 portion of the moisture intended for the plant. When a plant is 
 starting, it requires more water in pi-oportion to its size than after- 
 ward. When a plant is blooming and preparing to 
 set its fruit it must have water. W^hen a plant has 
 formed its fruit and is preparing to ripen the crop 
 (whether above or in the ground), water should be 
 sparingly used. Shallow-rooted plants, especially strawberries, 
 will want Avater at least every three days, as they are usually 
 grown on sand, which dries quicker than clay soil. ]\Iuch depends, 
 however, on the character of the subsoil and how far it is from 
 the roots of the plant. If only a foot or less it will be very re- 
 tentive of water, and if the surface is kept mulched the irrigations 
 will be required not oftener than once a week. If it is sieve soil, 
 like gravel, and the water goes out of sight almost as fast as you 
 put it in, it will require for ordinary vegetables watering once a 
 week or at most two weeks. You know how often we hear: "If 
 we could only have a shower every two weeks." Well, just supply 
 the shower after sundown, or if in the day time in a slow, soaking 
 stream close by the rows. If you have an acre in vegetables, fruit 
 and small fruits, there will hardly be a day when you will not see 
 the need of the water working on some portion of the tract. 
 
 How Much to Irrigate 
 
 How much water you will use, again depends on the kind of 
 plant you are raising. If it is alfalfa you will want ten times as 
 much as if you were raising spineless cactus, globe artichokes or 
 pie melons. There are but few of the vegetables that want an ex- 
 cessive amount of water, and the rule as to how much is again 
 governed by the quality of the soil for absorbing or retaining it. 
 In past years it has been customary to use from one inch to an acre 
 foot, according to supply, and quality of the land. An inch of 
 water is practically 13,000 gallons running in a perpetual flow for 
 24 hours. This has been in manv orchards sufficient for the needs 
 
GARDENHELPS 33 
 
 of twelve year-dkl trees, but as the trees grow larger more is 
 required and if eover crops are irrigated in, the amount is largely 
 augmented. If you run nine gallons of water from a hydrant in 
 a minute you are getting an ineh, or at the rate of an ineh of 
 water. And a garden growing vegetables will require fully as 
 nuieh water as the five-aere orchard the inch is supposed to amply 
 supply. Shurt i-ows and slow streams are l)etter than long rows and 
 cutting, fast streams that wear away the soil and run over the 
 field and do not penetrate. The object should be to get the 
 water into the soil rather than to see a stream run swiftly by. 
 That does little other good tlian aggravate the plant by disai)point- 
 ment. Use only as much as the plant needs in the soil to keep the 
 understrata filled and permeable, so the roots can reach out and 
 get the plant food yriu may have supplied. It is a nmtter of intel- 
 hg(Mit judgment to keep the plant s;) it never wants, the soil so it 
 is not overcharged with moisture and the surface so it will assist 
 you in keeping moisture beneath, and help you reduce your water 
 bills. Seventy-five thousand gallons per acre of garden, will be re- 
 (piired. 
 
 How to Irrigate 
 
 Water is either piped to the land or tiows in cenuMit ditches. 
 The means of distribution is by hose, l)y wooden tlumos and by 
 open ditches through the garden or orchai'd. For many reas(nis 
 the hose delivery is the most satisfactory, as it is tlie most direct 
 and can lie run over the ground without wetting the entire sur- 
 face tn liring up weeds. It depends largely, of coiu'se, on how 
 closely you have trees and plants set whether the entire surface 
 needs the application. If trees and plants eover the entire surface, 
 the root system beneath needs tilling to meet the requirement of 
 the plant. Again, the hose is convenient in the nuitter of turning a 
 stream direelly on one point or tree for a considerable tinu'. And 
 if you want to run water through a box containing nmnur(\ so as 
 to li(|uify it. the hose can be put up over the liox ; also the water 
 can })(' run up hill, and in many ways you can reach conclusions 
 with th(' hose you could not with gravity water, as we call water 
 running on the ground from a higher to a lower level point. 
 Again, if your tract is not properly graded, you will find it dif- 
 ficult to run gravity water over the hummocks. So, if you do not 
 have water from a hydrant l\y force through a hose, you will have 
 
34 GARDENHELPS 
 
 to grade the land so the water will flow in some one direction from 
 the highest to the lower points. Basining. or making a ridge 
 around a tree or a bed of plants, is sometimes practiced and is 
 especially good if yon have gophers or insect enemies to drown 
 oijt. Where water is abundant it is the custom to block out the 
 entire surface in immense basins. You need to cover the entire 
 ground in old orchards, and this generous supply will serve the 
 orchard for a month or six weeks, even in the driest portion of the 
 season, August and September. 
 
 Water is often conducted in wooden flumes with gates set 
 apart at suitable distances which can be opened by metal slides 
 and for the entire distance small pencil streams can be run which 
 make slow streams that thoroughly soak the ground. These 
 flumes can be made permanent or so arranged -they can be taken 
 up and laid aside while cultivation is in progress, either by horse 
 or by haiul. 
 
 By taking inch rubber hose and three-fiuarter-inch iron pipe, 
 another system of irrigation that is convenient and satisfactory 
 is obtained. Cut the one-inch hose into pieces about four or five 
 inches long and then connect the iron pipes, which you can lay in 
 any direction at any angle, even inclined slightly up- 
 ward. Thus you may deliver water at any point 
 within the distance you have length of pipe enough 
 to connect. This is quite handy, as you can discon- 
 nect the joints in a moment and deliver water at a nearer point 
 along your line, if you so desire. If your land is not graded, you 
 can lay the pipe to connect from one hummock to the other and 
 water at any point you wish. The iron pipe is cheaper than hose ; 
 is far more durable, as the pipe above ground Avill last a life- 
 time and the only expense will be to occasionally get some new 
 pieces of inch hose for the connections. Pieces of old three- 
 quarter-inch hose will connect up half-inch pipe and give you a 
 smaller stream. At the end of the piece of hose that is connected 
 to the hydrant you will need to have threads put on a piece of 
 three-quarter-inch pipe, and then you make your connection com- 
 plete as far as you have lengths of pipe. In watering a canyon or 
 hillside tract of several acres I have found the pipe plan very ser- 
 viceable and saving of water, as it gave the opportunity of putting 
 the water just where I wanted it without wasting it in open 
 ditches. 
 
G A R D E N H E L P S 35 
 
 A ilevice has rec-eiilly been invented by former Councilman 
 Goklkamp, of the city of Han Diego, whereby he delivers water in 
 force directly to the root of the tree, beneath the surface. The 
 implement has a valve enclosed in a pipe which is forced into the 
 ground, and when the water force is turned on it delivers the 
 stream beneath the surface, no evidence of any water being seen 
 above ground. When a tree or spot is sufficiently watered the 
 machine is readily pulled up and set down in another place to re- 
 peat its work. As a beneath-the-soil irrigator it has special ad- 
 vantages in the matter of saving water and cultivation, as it does 
 not disturb the sui'face of the ground. 
 
 The pit system of irrigation is somelimes used on steep side- 
 hills where it is difficult to even nuike contour ditches. (And here 
 let nie say. never run water straight down a hill by the side of 
 trees or plants. They sliould be set in the first place, so they can 
 be watered l)y the contour system, which practically makes level, 
 or nearly level, land of descending hillsides.) A pit in the center 
 of a square of trees or.l)eds is made of sufficient size to hold 
 several barrels of water and the water is run into these pits by 
 any means you have at hand, either by gravity, or from a hose. 
 The pit is tilled with water, then covered with brush, trimmings or 
 debris of the orchard and the water permitted to soak down under 
 the roots of the trees. By this method there is no washing of land 
 and the pits are placed so the cultivator can avoid them. The 
 surface is kept in a mulch and the water is secure from evapora- 
 tion. It is a useful expedient in some steep hillside situations. 
 
 If an alkali spot occurs in a new tract the best way to be rid 
 of it is to nmke a drain. Hood the spot with water and wash it 
 away. 
 
 To ordinary land, a quarter of an inch per acre, based on the 
 perpetual flow, or 3250 gallons each 24 hours, is sufficient for vege- 
 tables, fruits and crops like carrots, beets and cabbage. Even this 
 can be divided into one-half on retentive soils underlaid by clay 
 that holds the water in the subsoil. 
 
 The rapidity with which you can apply water by irrigation 
 must be governed largely by the texture of the soil to admit it 
 and allow it to spread down and through the upper soil. If it is 
 stiff soil you will find it will require twice as long for the water 
 to percolate through, as if it is sand, loam or gravel. 
 
36 GARDENHELPS 
 
 The distance apart your eiop is planted, either in rows or hills, 
 will s^overn the number of fiirroAvs you must make in order to till 
 the soil or satisfy the requirements of the plants, and how thor- 
 oughly you stir the soil after the flow of water has ceased and gone 
 into the soil. 
 
 It is best, if possible, to arrange to irrigate in short rows from 
 opposite directions so it will meet in the center, rather than in the 
 usual way of wasting your water in the run-otf at the end of the 
 rows where it will do no gooti, unless you have trees at the edge 
 of your tract that will be benefited by the water that runs from 
 the irrigated rows. 
 
 Excess of water washes away the plant food in the soil by 
 "leaching" and taking it in light sieve soils down beyond the 
 reach of the roots of the plant. Excess of w^ater often brings up 
 alkali from tlie under soil, destroys the germinating quality of 
 seed and erodes the tender plants. The only remedy in such a case 
 will be to put on more water and wash out of the soil the alkali 
 that has reached the surface; there must be good drainage to 
 carry it otf or you will lodge the dangerous salts in some portion 
 of the tract instead of ridding the soil of the difficulty. In such 
 cases an "acre foot" of water is used, meaning as much water as 
 would cover the acre a foot deep in w^ater. On a small tract the 
 inch in perpetual flow would put 13,000 gallons on the surface in 
 24 hours. 
 
 Do not as a rule flood crops ; there are but few vegetables that 
 will endure frequent flooding, even in destroying gophers and in- 
 sects that congregate under the leaves of plants where you cannot 
 reach them by any other means. Water should not be permitted 
 to stand more than 24 hours, and less than that time is better, 
 especially if the clay subsoil is but a short distance beneath. It is 
 possible to drown plants with irrigation. 
 
 If you must Hood crops, use the occasion when the sun is 
 obscured. Do not sprinkle plants except when sun is obscured, 
 and only as a means for refreshing the leaves and opening the 
 pores, not as a sufficient plan of irrigation. Sprinkling tends to 
 harden the upper crust of the soil and prevents aeration. It does 
 not sufficiently open the soil beneath so the root system can spread 
 with sufficient power to properly support the upper structure of 
 the plant. 
 
GARDENHELPS 37 
 
 The hotter the weather the more iimvise it is to cither eontiiiu- 
 ally t1i)od the laiul or let it go iineultivated. 
 
 Letting weeds grow in order to conserve nioistv.re is a 
 delusion and a snare. The weeds sap more moisture than their 
 shade tends to save. Rain treats all plants alike, l)ut irrigation 
 gives you the opportunity to regulate the sum of w^ater needed to 
 ?uit the plant. You can segregate the plants that need less and 
 water them according to their needs. Sorglium and kaffir corn 
 would not want the amount of water celery does, hence you would 
 put them in ditTerent sections of the tract and give them each 
 their p.u-tion in due season. 
 
 Irrigation is generall}' begun at the time when the winter rains 
 have been nearly used up by the plants and you can tell by their 
 appearance when they need a new supply. To constantly pour 
 on Avater because you have an al)undant supply would be unwise, 
 because you would sooii have a lot of sickly plants that by their 
 yellowness would try to show you the error of your way. It is a 
 greater mistake to use too much water than too little. The remedy 
 for the latter condition can more easily be applied than the 
 former, up to a certain stage. ^lost excellent crops are raised in 
 the semi-arid regions without any irrigation, simply keeping the 
 upper soil so loose and dust-like that it retains all the moisture 
 beneath for the benefit of the plants; while excessive Hooding 
 and no cultivation or stirring the soil is certain death to tlu^ plant. 
 
 Irrigation can never be a substitute for cultivation and aera- 
 tion, and is not a complete process any more than rain is in humitl 
 sections, where the plow, cultivator and hoe must follow to sup- 
 plement the action of the water received from the clouds. Irriga- 
 tion rightly applied is superior to rain, in that it gives the 
 gardener and farmer complete control of the amount, time of 
 application and withholding, and the latter is often quite as 
 essential as the application. Line head ditches with strips of 
 cloth or gunny sacks and so completely control the How down the 
 ditches without cutting. 
 
 Importance of Cultivation 
 
 Stirring the surface of the soil, especially as soon as possible 
 after a rain or irrigation is necessary in order to assist in the de- 
 velopment of the growing plant, and prevent disaster that would 
 occur if the surface soil remained untouched after being beaten 
 
38 GARDENHELPS 
 
 down by the rains or flooded from irrigation water. The effect 
 of water is to compress and solidify the surface, all of which pro- 
 cesses are antagonistic to the easy and healthful development of 
 plant life. 
 
 Not only does the plant require elements in the soil on which 
 it can feed, but to make these of easy access after the water has 
 done its work in moistening them so they will dissolve or liquify. 
 An essential requisite is aeration, or the introduction of air in 
 the soil, thus assisting the fil)rous root system of plants to more 
 easily appropriate the stores of food residing beneath the surface. 
 
 Cultivation prevents the hardening or baking of the soil at 
 the surface by converting the surface into a mulch that acts 
 equally as well as if the soil were covered with some extraneous 
 material. It not only lets in the air. but prevents the escape of 
 the moisture from beneath, which if left undisturbed would soon 
 form a crust on the surface. By this means the plant would be 
 retarded in growth from two causes: constriction of the soib 
 packing firndy around it, preventing natural expansion, and dry- 
 ing of the moisture from the surface roots of the plant. 
 
 The beneiits of cultivation are so numerous and essential, so 
 far reaching in effects, that a system of ''dry farming" has been 
 protital)ly built up by successive cultivation which has produced 
 unquestioned proiitable results. If the soil is so manipulated at 
 the surface as to present a continual soft blanket or mulch, iu 
 which one's feet will leave an indention, you may safely be assured 
 that you are giving the crop the best of treatment, conserving the 
 full benefit of the water applied. This dust soft covering can be 
 obtained best with some implement like a harrow, drag-tooth 
 cultivator or hack and rake in the garden. Any tendency to 
 muddy or sticky condition must be avoided and the soil must be 
 left entirely alone until the water has subsided and the top soil 
 will easily fall apart in minute particles in the wake of the harrow 
 or cultivator. 
 
 ASPARAGUS. 
 
 Napoleon raised the best asparagus in France, because he had 
 the military stables of Versailles from which to draw his supply 
 of plant food. The hint gives you the cue to the desire of this 
 plant for abundance of rich manurial support. It will grow well 
 on lands partly saline, in fact, if the soil does not contain consid- 
 erable chloride of sodium (common salt, say half a pound to the 
 
GARDENHELPS 39 
 
 square yard) it is liar(ll\- satisfied. An (ninee of seed will ^ive 
 500 plants, it" sown in deep, rieh, loamy soil. The seed should he 
 sown in drills a foot apait and not more than half an inch deep. 
 When large enough transplant to rows three feet apart and two 
 feet apart in the row. It has been the custom to allow the plants 
 to be tAvo years old before cutting any of the tender shoots that 
 are so highly esteemed. If you can purchase the roots two years 
 old you liave advanced tlie time when you can begin to use from 
 the plant by two years. A bed 15 by 40 will give sufficient supph' 
 for an ordinary family. If planted as above ('^x2), it will require, 
 to plant an acre, 7,200 roots. The roots are planted in California 
 from November to ^larch. There are several named varieties: 
 Conover's Colossal, Palmetto and the Bouldin's Island, the best 
 of all, for tenderness and flavor, cond)ined with ease of culture. 
 In sowing asparagus seed if is Avell to mix it with al)out 
 fifteen parts sand; put seed and sand in a cracker box. pour on 
 water to let it get well soaked, then you have prepared a loamy or 
 peat made piece of soil; sow the seed and sand in the drills; 
 make the drills four feet apart and the ditch a foot or less wide 
 and sprinkle in the seed from the sand box as evenly as you can. 
 Cover carefully with finelA- pulverized soil ; only about half an 
 inch deep, and if the ground is in good, moist condition the plants 
 will soon start. Keep weeds down. If you are giving field 
 culture, and the row.s are four feet apart, it is easy to get through 
 with the cultivator and give subsecjuent hoeing. As the plants in 
 the depression grow, you graduall\- at each cultivation, after irri- 
 gation, draw the earth about fhi^ Aoung plants. The garden plan 
 is usually to make a trencli and till it nearly full with well- 
 rotted manure; dig a second trench and throw the dirt from it 
 into the one just filled with manure, so keep on till the whole is 
 trenched and tlioroughly fertilized. Plant the asparagus roots 
 in rows, set a stake so you know where you have planted them, 
 and then you can occupy the gi-ound between with cabbages, car- 
 rots and any vegetable you desire that will be out of the way by 
 the time the asparagus is up and needs. the room. 
 
 In the autumn, after the growth of the season has l)een made, 
 all above ground should be cut away and burned, especially if 
 there has been any indications of rust, a disease that is reduced to 
 a minimum by timely use of Bordeaux Mixture. Another reason 
 for removing the feathery foliage before it drops seed is, if the 
 
40 GARDENHELPS 
 
 seed were permitted to grow it would spoil the bearing capacity 
 of the bed. as it wovdd be filled with young plants that would sap 
 the nutrition of the bed and make cutting difficult when the time 
 came to sever the shoots for either table or market use. Aspara- 
 gus is one of the most desirable of vegetables and should be more 
 widely cultivated and not relegated to the table of the epicure 
 alone. Asparagus bears in California from January to June and 
 is a profitable crop. 
 
 Artichokes 
 
 The Jerusalem artichoke is used more for fattening swine 
 than for the table of the family, though the potato-like tubers are 
 very palatable and wholesome when prepared by a skilful cook. 
 They grow best in sandy soil and being of the sunflower family 
 delight in warmth and moisture. They are grown like potatoes, 
 only you tui-n in the swine and let them do the digging. 
 
 The Globe is quite different. It is a decidedly striking, orna- 
 mental plant and the large purple flowers it sports place it in the 
 class of the coarse and the showy. The flowers which are well set 
 in the light olive grey foliage, were models in ancient Greece for 
 architectural ornamentation. The plant is a striking figure in 
 any landscape and can be used in landscape effects. The large 
 buds, cut before any sign of opening to bloom, are boiled and the 
 flakes of the bud removed singly. At the base of each is a small 
 portion of delicious vegetable marrmv, the center being a solid 
 mass of it, if it is taken before the change takes place which ad- 
 vances it to the flowering stage; this is important as the buds 
 if left till .just beginning to open are worthless for table use. It 
 is a perennial. Sown in the spring, it will be ready for use by 
 autumn ; sown in the autumn it will bloom the next summer. Sow 
 seed in seed bed and transplant to rows 3 feet apart each way. 
 Ft will stand considerable drouth, but if you wish good edible 
 florets, water well. 
 
 BEANS 
 
 California is essentially a bean country. Ventura county 
 sends beans to the antipodes, and there is no place where some 
 one or two of the whole catalogue can not be used with generous 
 results. (3f the dwarf or bush beans there are a dozen or more 
 different sorts. The early ]\Iohawk, will stand more cool weather 
 than any other bush bean, except the Windsor. The latter, though 
 included in the bush varieties has a verj' distinct form. It grows 
 
GARDENHELPS 41 
 
 \:v\l in the cool months, and when th(^ pods turn brown the ma- 
 tured l)eans are fit to use, shelled like limas, making excellent 
 strong food. In rich land they grow five feet high and produce 
 pods all up the stalk. Burpee's Bush and Henderson's Bush are 
 standards for sunuuer use. 
 
 Beans should be sown or planted 2 inches deep, and 2 inches 
 a part in the row in any good soil. If soil is sticky, always add 
 sand, plaster, old i)laster composed of sand and lime, or lime if 
 the soil is deficient in that element. The Wax or yellow podded 
 varieties are desiraljle; there are some eight kinds of the wax 
 lieai]s. including Ventura Wonder Wax, Black Kidney, Wardell's, 
 Davis, and Golden AVax. One pound of seed will sow lOO feet 
 of drills. If y;iu soak the beans before planting to accelerate 
 Iheir germination l)e sure and plant in moist ground, for you will 
 destroy the germ if you place them in dry drills. 
 
 The pole or running l)eans comprise (juite a numerous family, 
 including Kentucky Wonder Wax, and the King of the Garden 
 Lima. Of the 8 sorts generally used, the Scarlet Runner is more 
 desiral)le as an ornamental climber than as a bean for the table, 
 though they bear (juite prolitically. 
 
 The Broad Windsors are planted from September to January, 
 the dwarf bush varieties from January to July, and pole beans 
 from March to September. 
 
 Beans sometimes are attacked by anthraenose or pod rust, 
 or with mildew. Browu spots come on p ids and leaves for which 
 use the all fungus remedy, Bordeaux mixture. For mildew (white 
 powdery mould over the plant) use sulphur dry or made into 
 spray with concentrated lye. Coal ashes mixed with kerosene 
 and sown with either peas or beans will prevent the attack of 
 the Bean bug or weevil. If on gathering your beans or peas for 
 seed you discover the presence of the insects, put the seed in a 
 closed vessel and submit it to a heat of 145 deg. Fahr. for an hour, 
 or use bisulphide of carbon in an op(ni dish in tlie closed vessel 
 when the fumes will kill all insect life. 
 
 Beans can be started in a warm sheltered or covered place 
 and then transplanted to the open Avhen the soil is warmed enough 
 for them to grow rapidly. Soil should be kept moist ; the bean 
 soon goes into a rapid decline if permitted to go dry. 
 
42 GARDENHELPS 
 
 BEETS 
 
 A man once coughed up a chunk of red substance which he 
 declared to the doctor was a piece of his lung but his good wife 
 relieved the puzzled physician by stating that they "lived on 
 pickled beets." 
 
 In California this is an all-the-year vegetable as there is no 
 day in the year you cannot, if you wish, go to the garden and 
 procure a supply. As in harvesting, so in sowing, there is no time 
 when it is out of season to sow beets. This refers to the table and 
 stock varieties; for sugar manufacture there are special seasons 
 and special varieties to be grown on special soils that will con- 
 duce to the highest per cent of sugar content. There are half a 
 dozen similar sorts of early table beets, of the round Egyptian 
 type, quick growers like Crosby's Egyptian. All of them are 
 dark red except Bassino. which is light colored and early. The 
 Long Blood is excellent for deep soil. Sow in drills at any time ; 
 drills a foot or 15 inches apart ; thin to six inches apart in the row. 
 The young beets make excellent "greens." Swiss Chard or Sea 
 Kale is a member of the family but so distinct that it is not a 
 beet at all as it has no bulb like the other beets. It is noted for 
 the wide white tieshy midril)s of the leaves that make excellent 
 greens or sweet pickle, Init most of all as a great forage producer 
 for the poultry yard. The plant does not attain to its best until 
 the second year, when the midribs can be served up like asparagus. 
 
 Stock beets comprise the mammoth kinds, too coarse for table 
 use, and can be sown from November to April in drills 3 feet apart 
 thinned to a foot apart in the row. The Giant Half Sugar Rose 
 Mangel has been known to yield as much as fifty tons to the acre. 
 It is fine to feed to milch cows, imparting a sweet flavor to the 
 milk and cream. Golden Tankard is a find beet not so large, but 
 of fine quality ; Long Red and Yellow Globe are all medium sized 
 and good stock feeders. All need deep rich soil, permeable so the 
 roots will have no trouble in penetration. It takes six pounds 
 of seed to the acre, generally costing about 20 cents per pound. 
 Beets at a low estimate bring $5.00 per ton, and there is hardly 
 a crop that brings such large returns for so small an outlay for 
 seed. In sandy river bottom land they make immense roots. The 
 Improved Imperial is largely grown to feed stock and is also 
 counted in as a sugar beet representative but it has been super- 
 ceded by Vilmorin's Improved White, Avhicli is valuable because 
 
GARDENHELPS 43 
 
 of its richiu'ss in sugar content. Clean cultivation is essential aiul 
 expert knowledge is recjuired to determine the degree of value 
 in sugar content. 
 
 Beets are sometimes trouliled with a fungus disease called 
 (Cercos) or grey spots on the leaf, which if permitted to range 
 undisturhed will destroy the entire plant. The remedy is early 
 application of Bordeaux ^lixture. 
 
 BROCCOLI. 
 
 This is a sort of a renegade member of the cabbage family 
 that tried to aj)e the manner of the Cauliflower. It is too slow 
 in growth, as most people who desire a flowery cabbage prefer 
 to raise cauliflower for it grows quicker and is Ijetter in flavor 
 when it is grown. Broccoli cuts a snuill figure in the California 
 produce market aiul is relegated to the plane in vegetable society 
 along with the Kohlrabi (the turnip that fries to be a cabbage) — 
 Brr.ssels sprouts, collards. chiv(^s and similar chicken provender. 
 
 CABBAGE 
 
 This im]>ortant vegetal)le is at honu' nn)st of the year in Cali- 
 fornia, preferring to do its best, however, in the cool months and 
 taking a brief summer vacation. Yet to keep a supply l)oth early 
 and late there is hardly a month in the year when cabbage is not 
 sown or transplanted. There are five chief early varieties of which 
 Early Winningstedt takes the lead, followed by Early Wakefield, 
 Eureka and Improved Early Summer. Henderson's Succession, 
 Drumheads and Danish Ball Head are among the favorites and 
 as their name implies succeed each other. An ounce of seed will 
 produce 5000 plants. Sow ear]>' kinds in Sejitember. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER. 
 
 The cultivation of this plant is practically the same as for 
 cabbage, it being a florescent cabbage. It is more sensitive to 
 the warm weather and needs to be planted so it will attain its 
 best between January and April. Dry Aveather Cauliflower, how- 
 ever, matures when other varieties come short of making good. 
 Henderson's Early Snowball, Nonpareil, Algiers and Autumn 
 Giant are among the named sorts. If the planting has been de- 
 ferred till late and the heads are not well formed when the sum- 
 mer is advanced it will be helpful to skewer the long side leaves 
 over the head to protect it from the sun, thus keeping the head 
 crisp. 
 
44 GARDEN HELPS 
 
 Diseases and insects that tri;ul)le the cabbage family are inci- 
 dent to all alike and generally those that afflict ihe radish, turnip, 
 mustard, collards, chives, kale, and kindred plants, all require 
 similar treatment. The green aphis, cabbage louse, cabbage worm, 
 flea beetles and Harlequin bug all visit the plants. In the cauli- 
 flower all these enemies are most to be dreaded because the insects 
 conceal themselves in the florescence making it extremely diiScult 
 to dislodge them. At the first appearance use brine water- or hot 
 water up to 112 deg., burn tar paper under the plants, dust on 
 pyrethrum; or knock them o& with force of water from the hose. 
 Avoid if p'.)ssil)le using any poison especially on cauliflower. From 
 cabbage the outer leaves can all be stripped oflf before the cab- 
 bage is used. For the cabbage root maggot which works at the 
 root of the plant, use bi-sulphide of carbon, prodding a hole in the 
 soil near the root but not close to it, pour in half a teaspoonful of 
 the liquid and close the hole quickly. The vapor diffuses through 
 the soil and destroys all insect life near it. either worms or mag- 
 gots. The Harlequin bug, a calico colored, orange spotted insect 
 half an inch long that feeds on the plant, is best caught by decoys. 
 Ijay around pieces of boards, gunny sack or something they can 
 hide under, gather them up and burn them. If cabbage show 
 signs of ''club root" — contortion or swelling of the stump and 
 roots, — which attacks allied plants, burn the first plant you see 
 showing any signs of the disease. Lime the soil. Lime is not only 
 the warden of the soil unlocking elements the plant needs that are 
 locked away from it, but it is also a corrective of snur soil and soil 
 fungus and destroys soil insects that prey on the roots of the plant, 
 ^lost of our California soils except the marls and mealy adobes 
 are deficient in lime and the addition will in nearly every instance 
 be beneficial. 
 
 The novelties in the cabbage family are the Savoy, giving 
 curious curved and crimped leaves, but of excellent flavor. The 
 Autumn King is the giant and produces enormous heads of great 
 weight and is among the late-growing sorts. INIammoth Eed Rock 
 is the largest pickling cabbage, has solid heads and deep red color. 
 Sow seed in beds or boxes, transplant to rows, 2 feet apart, 
 12 to 18 inches apart in the row according to size. 
 
 CARROTS 
 
 The carrot is a thrifty Californian and has an abiding value 
 that is represented by hardly any other vegetable, because if 
 
GARDENHELPS 45 
 
 the drouth eoiiu's on it just simply stops and rests till the rains, 
 or timely irrig'ation lielps it to till out the measure of its life. 
 The seed is very fine and therefore cannot be covered deeply nor 
 sown too thickly, thoug'h young carrots are, as well as the lops, 
 relished hy fowl. One ounce of seed will be sufficient for 150 
 feet of drills. The soil should be moist, free from lumps and kept 
 iniiformly damp until the seed germinates, which recpiires only 
 a few days. 
 
 There are ten or more varieties from the Early Short Horn, 
 which represents the shallow soil grower, to ^Mastodon the heaviest 
 carrot grown, yielding more tons of feed for stock, than any otlier 
 carrot, white and sweet and relished by both cows and horses. It 
 is not important, when yi.u can raise a crop at any time, that you 
 select the very earliest — French Forcing — but the Ox Heart aiul 
 Danvers Half Long are snitable for any depth of soil. The Large 
 White Belgian is grown exclusively for stock and is useful to mix 
 with the dry rations for any domestic animal. In two months 
 from sowing small carrots can l)e obtained; and to have them crisp 
 and of good Havor they should be evenly watered. The winter 
 season is the linn^ to make the largest crop. If raised for poultry 
 the tops can l)e cut several times and will be as often renewed. 
 By the time you begin cutting the last row the first will be almost 
 ready to cut again. One ounce of scimI sows 150 feet in drills. 
 Sow thinly in drills 15 inch(^s apart; thin to 5 or 6 inches in the 
 row. 
 
 CHERVIL 
 
 This is one of the unnsual plants, an aromatic herb, liked l)y 
 some to flavor suu.ps. It is raised in the cool months, sown from 
 September to June. Sow seed in open ground as you would onions. 
 
 CHIVES 
 
 This is really a good border plant for edging in the vegetable 
 garden. The leaves have an onion flavor and are used in soups. 
 Of no commercial value and rather a novelty, its room can be 
 much better occupied, vudess used as an ad.junct to an orderly 
 arrangement. It can be left in clumps indefinitely and the leaves 
 used as wanted. 
 
 CIBOULE 
 
 Here is another not very usefid plant and where good onions 
 can be raised with i)roflt. the "Welsh" Onion is not needed. 
 Cultivate same as onions from seed. Of no commercial value any 
 
46 GARDENHELPS 
 
 more than their cousins the Shallots, and all of them are not so 
 good as leeks. They need no cultural directions as there is little 
 incentive for growing them except the novelty of having one more 
 variety in the garden. 
 
 CHICKORY 
 
 The only kind to grow, if one wishes to raise a substitute for 
 coffee, is the Large Rooted Magdenburg. It is used in the adul- 
 teration of coffee and the leaves ai-e liked by some as a salad. 
 It has little commercial value and is prominent among plants for 
 being distasteful to army worms- The leaves, used to cover other 
 plants, make resistance and partial protection. 
 
 COLLARDS 
 
 This plant of the cabbage family is used by some as a sub- 
 stitute for cabbage. It has a tall stem covered with miniature 
 rosettes that have the flavor of the cabbage. It is known as 
 Creole or Georgia Collards and furnishes an excellent supply of 
 green feed for poultry. 8oAvn in the cool months from February 
 to May it is preferred to wrinkled kale for green feed for chickens. 
 Sow and treat the same as cabliage. 
 
 CRESS 
 
 Really a window garden relish, can be sown in a bowl and 
 set in the window and in a few days you can cut it off close to 
 the soil and have a delicious salad, or relish like lettuce. Pepper 
 grass is its other name, as it is really a warm member of the vege- 
 table family. Sow it very thickly. Write your name in the soil 
 and carefully sow the seed and, if kept moist, in four days it will 
 be up and your signature plainly set in the soil green and verdant. 
 You can repeat the sowing and if you only have a wnndow and a 
 bowl of soil you can have a growing garden in your room. 
 
 Entirely distinct is Water Cress which delights to fill up a 
 bubbling spring or a running stream of shallow water. Like its 
 little name-sake, it is used as j-ou would lettuce. It is altogether 
 an aquatic plant and seed sown by the waters mhII give you re- 
 turns for years to come, if properly cut and preserved. 
 
 CORN SALAD 
 
 This plant is sown in the wet months and used as lettuce which 
 it resembles. Some kinds are disposed to make heads, but it has 
 never filled the place of good well-grown lettuce. It is in the 
 substitute list and of Italian origin and preference. 
 
GARDENHELPS 47 
 
 CELERY 
 
 Celery is one of the import;! nt prodiiets of California. Any- 
 where on moist, partly peat land it can l)e grown to best advant- 
 age, as is done on the peat lands of Orange eonnty. There are 
 river bottoms adjoining the sea in San Diego and other counties 
 that can be sneeessfull\' used. Hut celery can be raised in any 
 good permeable garden soil provided the important consideration 
 is met: It mnst be kept n)oist. as the plant is of semi-a(inatie origin 
 and if deprived of a sufficient amount of water to keep it advanc- 
 ing rapidly it soon runs to seed. It is most successfully grown in 
 the winter and autumn months, endures very well any frosts that 
 may come in interior valleys, ])ut does not staiul the heat well 
 enough to make its culture jirotitable in the summer months. 
 Ordinary garden soil can b{» well adapted by a liberal supply of 
 well rotted inanure and b^ the aid of deep digging and trenching 
 similar to work done in a:-pai*agus culture. 
 
 Celery is sown in a seed bed and transplanted. The seed is 
 small but not hard to germinate, if it is kept in equal temperature 
 never sodden, never dr\-. Cover seed lightly because it is small 
 and will not come through a heavy load of soil. Sow in a seed l)ed 
 and when the plants are uji thin to aI)out one plant to the square 
 inch. When they are three inches high, clip off the tops about 
 half way; and when they get four inches or more high clip l)ack 
 again. This is to give root jxjwer. Keep moist and in about a 
 week or ten days transplant carefully without disturbing the 
 roots, taking a good chiudv of soil with them, to the shallow furrow 
 you have previously prepared. Set al)out six inches apart. A 
 wooden dibble to drive down and pull out is a good tool for mak- 
 ing the hole to put the plant in. Put it doAvn straight and firm 
 the soil well around the plant before you leave it. Keep the soil 
 aAvay from the plant instead of drawing it up to it until it is a 
 foot and a half high. Then ]iull the earth up to the stalks to 
 blanch or whiten them. The Chinaman wraps strips of gunny 
 sack around the plants to blanch them. It takes about three 
 weeks to satisfactorally blanch the White Plume variety. 
 
 There should be four cool months in which to grow the celery. 
 Commercially it is harvested aiul sent east in the winter so the 
 seed should be sown so as to nu-et the Thanksgiving and Christmas 
 demand. To do this, it must be sown in summer, sav August, and 
 
48 GARDENHELPS 
 
 must in hot locations be shaded till it has firmly established itself; 
 and abinidaut moisture must be applied. 
 
 An ounce of seed will produce 8,000 plants or sow about 200 
 feet of rows. IMix the seed with fine sand when you sow it or 
 you will get it too thick. Set the plants six inches apart in the 
 row and keep well cultivated or hoed. If you bleach it with 
 boards, set wide ones on edge and with a wire staple and hook 
 1o hold them apart and together. A crate is made to hold ten 
 bunches, a dozen in a bunch. If plants are small it will take more, 
 as the size regulates the bunch. A fair field of celery will yield 
 20,000 plants to the acre. 
 
 In hot weather and in dry places celery is subject to leaf 
 liliglit and sun scald, leaves turning yellow and brown. It seldom 
 comes if the celery is on moist land. Spray with Bordeaux early 
 in the season and repeat later. 
 
 Celery belongs to the same family as parsnip, carrot, parsley, 
 dill, anise and caraway. The varieties most used are Golden Self 
 Blanching, White Plume ' and Pink Plume. The Golden Self 
 Blanching is the favorite. 
 
 CELERIAC 
 
 This is a turnip-rooted celery and has tried to imitate the 
 turnip-rooted cabbage kohlrabi. It can be gathered and stored 
 like any root crop and gives you celery in slices in the winter. 
 
 Sow seed as for Celery. Plant in rows 2 feet apart and 8 inches 
 in the row. No blanching or earthing up is required as the roots 
 are the edible part. Keep roots in cool place, when stored, and 
 cover with straw. Ltmg smooth Prague is a standard kind. 
 
 CARDOON 
 
 This is a plant strongly resembling the glol)e artichoke except 
 that it attains a much larger growth. The edible portion is the 
 mid-rib of the leaf and stem and not the flower bud- It takes 
 six months from seed to maturity and near the close of its growth 
 the leaves are gathered up, covered and blanched and the whole 
 plant, root and all, is used as a vegetable. It is not much in favor, 
 though some esteem it a delicacy. It takes four months to mature 
 plants. It grows best in cool weather. 
 
 CAPERS 
 
 "Cutting capers" can be actually accomplished if you get 
 one or two of these ornamental vegetable plants. The buds are 
 
GARDENHELPS 49 
 
 hand picked and used for piekles. jusl as gherkins ean be gathered 
 from the nasturtium. The eaper is a novelty and ean be grown 
 anywhere along the eoast. Like many other plants it may be 
 grown in boxes and multiplied l)y cutting. As many other novel- 
 ties it has not attained connnercial i-ecognition. 
 
 CORN 
 
 While California is not a corn state there ean be corn grown 
 for a longer period of the year tlian in any other state in the I'nion, 
 Sweet corn can be had from June to January if planted in suc- 
 cession. In many portions of the state the tii'st planting is in 
 March and it can be continued till Hepteml)er. Corn matures in 
 75 days and the roasting ears in 60 days, if the right kinds are 
 planted. The standard kinds are PLii-]y Minnesota, Black ^lex- 
 ican. Country Gentleman, StowelTs Evergreen and Golden Ban- 
 tam. Sown thickly in drills coi-n makes most excellent fodder 
 t'oi' milch cows. One j)ound will i»lant KM) hills. 8 pounds an acre, 
 3 feet apart each way. Field varieties in the interior valleys 
 bring si)lendid crops on subirrigated land, and on any good moist 
 land if planted early in ]March. Worms are tlie enemy, the same 
 worm that afflicts the tomato. 
 
 Planting successive crops closely together as regards time is 
 a method of minimizing the ravages of the worms. The moth 
 deposits its eggs in the silk, and the larva crawls into the ear 
 and often makes sad Avork. If they get in the early crop, cut it 
 up and feed it bodily to the cow and the next oiu'oming corn will 
 be comparatively free liecause the worms have been destroyed, 
 l^oth field corn and pop corn suffer less than the sweet garden 
 varieties from the ravages of the worms. When Agricultural 
 Science is taught in our schools, there will be less time dcn-oted 
 to baseball and nuH-e to the lucrative employment of catching the 
 moth that annually destroys thousands of dollars worth of corn! 
 If the moth were hunted half as vigorously as the dove, meadow 
 lark and quail, there would soon be corn crops raised as perfect 
 as any in the United States, as there is no place where the season 
 is so well adapted as in our interior valleys. The earliest dent 
 corn is the Improved Leaming. The Ilominy, eight rowed white 
 flint has been a favorite. Three successive crops can be raised for 
 table use and two or more for fodder. Sto well's Evergreen is as 
 useful as any for that purpose. 
 
50 GARDENHELPS 
 
 One poimd of seed will plant 100 hills- Corn is planted in 
 hills 3 feet apart each way, or in drills 3 feet apart and plants 
 6 inches apart. 
 
 CUCUMBERS 
 
 An onnce of seed will plant 100 hills. If wanted very early, 
 seed can be sown in Febrnary in hollowed-out tnrnips, beets, 
 strawberry boxes, tiower pots and raised nnder shelter or by a 
 warm window or under a cloth frame, and put out in the open as 
 early as the ground is warm. If raised entirely under cover they 
 Avill have to be poUenized by hand with a small camel's hair pencil, 
 as there are no bees or insects to carry the pollen, nor wind to 
 blow it from the anthers of the staminate bloom to the pistillate. 
 
 About 8 seeds in the hill may be planted, but only half of 
 these should be left if good strong plants are wanted. Roots 
 crowded too closely together struggle for existence. If you put 
 manure in the hills before planting, be sure it is well rotted, 
 otherwise it will absorb all the moisture the plants should have. 
 The Early White Spine is one of the best for table use ; Improved 
 Long Green is a standard; Boston Pickling is a cluster cucumber. 
 A good crop is reckoned at 150,000 cucumbers to the acre. From 
 seed to maturity requires 60 to SO days. 
 
 The cucumber, like most of the cubierate family, is subject 
 to blight and mildew. For the blight, a disease that causes the 
 entire vine to droop and die, there is no known remedy but to 
 pull up the plant and prevent further infection. Mildew is cured 
 and prevented in the early stages by liberal use of sulphur and 
 spray with ammoniated carl)onate of copper solution. 
 
 A double brood of pickle worms, will try to destroy the vines 
 and the caterpillars must be hand picked. The Diabrotica punc- 
 tata, a yellow spotted beetle, feeds on the leaves as does its com- 
 panion the striped cucumber beetle (Diabrotica vitata)- To pre- 
 vent attack, use small boxes covered with cheese cloth, when 
 plants are young; covered with these protectors the insects do 
 not reach them. The following repellants are useful: ashes, lime, 
 plaster, fine road dust, air slacked lime, plaster and kerosene 
 mixed to a powder, or tobacco powder. Apply remedies every 
 two or three days when dew is on and be sure and reach under 
 side of leaf. To kill the beetle use any of the arsenites mixed with 
 flour dusted on and around the plant. See remedies. 
 
GARDENHELPS 51 
 
 DANDELION. 
 
 « 
 
 In California this is an obnoxious plant nearly everyboily is 
 trying to exterminate, but some people want a change of "greens" 
 and so let it grow. We have so many much safer and better 
 plants for the purpose (spinach, kale, beets. New Zealand spinach 
 among the liest) that mustard and dandelion become easily ob- 
 noxious weeds hard to eradicate if once established. 
 
 EGG PLANT. 
 
 One ounce of seed will produce, under favorable conditions, 
 2000 plants. Tt requires strong uniform heat to germinate the 
 seed, in finely pulverized, warm soil. Plant in April, June and 
 July. Treat aboiit as you do tomatoes 3 feet apart each way and 
 give support with frames. The egg plant likes to be near the 
 hydrant and if it receives water most of the time it shows its 
 gratitude by increased size of fruit- The New York Spineless is 
 early and free from spines. Black Pekin bears large round deep 
 purple frnit ami the Early Long Purjile is fairly good. 
 
 Egg plant requires 160 days to mature, with most of the days 
 warm, and is content with yielding about half a dozen fruits to the 
 ])lant. It, too. has an enemy, the potato beetle, and the arsenites 
 must be applied before fruit appears and again before it is large 
 enough to pick. It belongs to the solanaceous family of plants 
 like the potato, tomato, pepper, husk tomato, belladonna and night- 
 shade. The genus to which it belongs contains from 700 to 900 
 species. It is very nutritious made into patties and the slices 
 fried make a good substitute for meat. To .start the seed well 
 it is wise to sow it in boxes and put the boxes where they can 
 have heat at the bottom from a manure pile, or other source. All 
 its life it desires heat and moisture and detests drouthy conditions. 
 
 ENDIVE. 
 
 This plant is not used largely by our American people but 
 esteemed highly by French, German and Italian residents. It is 
 similar in habits to the curled lettuce. Sow in ordinary soil in 
 drills one foot apart covered lightly. When 2 inches high, thin 
 to about 12 inches apart in the row and when the plant has at- 
 tained its full size gather up the outer leaves and tie them over 
 the center of the plant. This excludes the air from the inside 
 and blanches it in a few weeks. It is a hardy plant and can be 
 had all the year. The Staghorn, a curled variety is chiefly used 
 
52 GARDEN HELPS 
 
 and the l)road leaved Esearolle is also planted. One ounce of seed 
 will sow 150 feet of drills. 
 
 GARLIC. 
 
 This plant, as well as leeks is an inferior sort of onion and 
 but moderately used. In fact, both are plants on which moder- 
 ation can be used Avith no danger of violating the rules of pro- 
 priety. Culture for both is about the same as for the onion, re- 
 quiring about the same rich soil and growing in the cool months. 
 The garlic is usually grown from sets in rows 18 inches apart and 
 6 inches in the row. Plant in Decemlier. 
 
 HORSERADISH. 
 
 This plant needs partial shade and moisture and does not 
 thrive in dry situations. Back from the coast, better results may 
 be expected, though good sized roots are grown if the native en- 
 vironment of the plant is partially supplied. It is a perennial 
 plant and does not attain its full size in one year, the roots con- 
 tinuing to enlarge with age. It is classed with the Cruciferae fam- 
 ily with about 2000 other species. Turnip, radish and mustard 
 are near relatives and the stock, alyssum and wall floAver are 
 among the ornamental plants of the group. The horseradish de- 
 lights in deep rich soil, shade and moisture. Use small roots, 
 planted two feet apart in rows two feet apart. 
 
 KALE OR BORECOLE. 
 
 This plant is nmch used for feeding poultry. It is sown in 
 beds then set out like cabbage thinned in the row a foot apart. 
 The dwarf curled is excellent for early use. It grows in the cool 
 months and can be planted from August to January. The Jersey 
 cow kale grows from 6 to 8 feet high and is for stock and poultry 
 especially. The "Sea Kale" or Swiss chard is called kale; it be- 
 longs to the beet family but is used for the same purposes as the 
 other kales; it is a perennial and needs two years to bring it to 
 perfection. An ounce of seed Avill produce 2000 plants. The Si- 
 ])erian curled kale is very (U-namental as Avell as useful. It is of a 
 bluish green tinge and like scarlet beets can be used in color ef- 
 fects or masses of color if desired. 
 
 LETTUCE- 
 
 There is no more satisfactory garden plant than lettuce, in 
 Calif(U'nia. Lettuce sown on moist ground will give returns the 
 
G A R D E N H E L P S 53 
 
 year round aiul the suiprises eouie when there is litth:- in the 
 market. After taking ont the winter garden, soak the gronnd 
 and pnt in lettiiee, or after the summer garden repeat the opera- 
 tion. It is an ever ready plant if it has the right treatment, whieh 
 means rieh soil and ph'nty of water. In summer sow h'ltnce on 
 the shatly side of large vegetables that must be irrigated and it 
 receives the shade and moisture needed. The eabliage varieties 
 are preferred and the Improved Large Passion — ])la(dv seeded— 
 produces large solid white heads. There are fifteen or more va- 
 rieties. Among the best are Boston Market and Paris White Cos. 
 Royal Summer stands heat much better than some of the loose 
 headed ones. An ounce of seed will give 2000 plants if sown in 
 the open drill in light rich soil. For clay soil mix in sand and lime. 
 Thin to from 8 to ^2 inches apart. Sown every three weeks. Im- 
 proved Hanson is one of the very best and seldom is afflicted with 
 bitterness. Cover the seed very lightly or it will not get through, 
 especially if a crust is permitted to form, however slight. Nip 
 out seed s'alks early. 
 
 MELONS. 
 
 ]\lusk melons, cantclonpes and water melons are all consid- 
 ered under this head. California soil and climate l)ring all of tlu'm 
 to the acme of perfection. An ounce of seed will plant nearly 
 100 hills, and 2 pounds an acre, in hills 6 feet apart each way. The 
 green fleshed and netted skinned varieties are distinct from the 
 smooth and ribbed musk melon. The former are found in the 
 Rocky Fords. Ilackensacdw and Nutmegs. ]Most of them are 
 round but Champion ]\Iarket is slightly elongated, is one of the 
 very sweetest and has light green flesh. The Rocky Ford is in- 
 clined more to the oval shape and is a favorite in the home garden. 
 The musk melon cannot endure lack of water as well as the water- 
 melon and will die where the watermelon will continue to struggle 
 on till the rains come. All melons delight in warm sand}' soil or 
 light clay loams but if planted in stiff soils should have some sand 
 and lime added in the hills. JManure in all soils should be added 
 or rather have been put in a considerable time before planting, 
 unless you are in a position to add liquid manure, whieh is im- 
 mediately available to the plant. As with the cucumber, the seed 
 can be planted in boxes or scooped out turnips, beets or any re- 
 ceptacle and that will hold soil. You can get the plants started in 
 February and keep them from the cold winds under a cloth or 
 
54 G A R D E N H E L P S 
 
 lath cover till the ground is warm euoug:h for them to make vig- 
 orous growth. A pile of fresh horse manure spread out Hat, ahout 
 a foot deep on which you can set the boxes containing the seed 
 will give "bottom heat" and push the plants ahead. From sum- 
 mer planting as late as July you can expect good returns, as it 
 requires only 150 days from time of planting to ripening, if the 
 plants are kept growing. A speciality is the new Cassaba variety, 
 which is best sown late. When at full size pick the melon from 
 the vine and store it away in a cool place and it will ripen and 
 keep good till the holiday times, from November to January. 
 Much is lost by letting the vines of all melons grow too long be- 
 fore pinching them back, which should be done when the vines are 
 about one foot long. This strengthens the growth of the vine, 
 makes it branch and causes the fruit to mature some days earlier. 
 
 It takes more seed in weight to plant the same number of hills 
 of the watermelon ; an ounce will only plant 30 hills and it will 
 take 4 pounds to plant an acre. The hills should be wider apart 
 than the canteloupes and musk melon, or at least ten feet each 
 way according to the kind used. Plant seed in well prepared 
 mellow hills in any good soil. Do not place dry manure in the 
 hills ; use only well rotted decomposed manure, finely mixed with 
 the soil. If rough manure is used it should only be for mulching 
 to keep the hills from drying out. There are more than a dozen 
 named watermelons : Cannon Ball, Kleckley Sweet, Rattlesnake, 
 Dixie, Cuban Queen, Cole's Early are among the best. Mammoth 
 Ironclad has a thin, but very tough, rind and is a good shipper, as 
 is Cannon Ball. 
 
 The diseases of melons, particularly the Cuban, are as follows: 
 mildew, (Plasmopara Cubensis), gives the leaf a violet frost-like 
 appearance and is cured on the first appearance by plentifully 
 spraying the vines on top with Bordeaux and turning them up and 
 spraying the underside. Watermelons are afflicted with anthrac- 
 nose or pod rust of the bean. Wilt, watermelon disease, makes 
 the vine suddenly wilt and die. It is a disease of the vessels of 
 the stem and is most serious, as the only cure is to pull up the 
 vines, burn them, lime the soil and plant again in another spot. 
 Melon aphis causes the vines to have a greasy appearance, to 
 blacken and soon die. Spray with hot water or kerosene emulsion ; 
 or put small tub or tent over the vine, then put in a small dish of 
 bi-sulphide of carbon and close tightly with earth at the bottom 
 
GARDENHELPS 55 
 
 so that no vapor can escape and the carbon will kill all insect life 
 and not injure the plant. Use a spoonful to a vine two feet in 
 circumference. Squash bugs, cucumber beetles and melon worms 
 will all be destroyed by this metiiod if used carefully. A small 
 tig'ht tent not more than a foot high can be made to cover the 
 vines and a man will in a day cover a large space and kill all in- 
 sects. If the melon root \vorm is w^orking in the soil use unslacked 
 lime. Spade in a short distance from the roots, and then apply 
 water. The bi-sulphide of carbon will destroy insects in the soil 
 if jout in a hole made with a sharp pointed iron or stick, say size 
 of picket pin. l*nt the carl)on in several holes around any plant 
 and close with wet dirt. Cut worms, white grubs and wire worms 
 all meet the same fate. The carbon used too strong will also de- 
 stroy the plant. The pie melon or as it is called in the east, 
 ''citron" is nsed for stock and will resist more drouth than any 
 member of the family. Large crops are raised in unirri gated dis- 
 tricts, if planted where the natural drainage gives mellow soil and 
 under moisture. The same plan as with cucumbers can l)e used in 
 protecting the yonng vines from ravages of the striped diabrotica, 
 by using cigar boxes covered with mos(]uito bar or cheese cloth. 
 Poultry enjoy a melon as an increase in the variety of food, and 
 thus augment the egg suj^ply. 
 
 MUSHROOMS. 
 
 If you can, get good spawn (seed). Bnt much of it is shipped 
 in and is devitalized largely in crossing the desert, for it can- 
 not be subjected to long dry spells, or short ones either of unusual 
 heat. The mushroom grows in the showery days of spring and 
 hides away when the clouds fail to give it shelter. From this you 
 can understand the conditions best suited to its growth and de- 
 velopment. If you have a shed, cellar or stable where you can 
 keep the temperature at a range from 50 to 70 and reasonably 
 moist and if you have good spawn, you can raise mushrooms. Get 
 some good soil from the cowyard or from under the trees and mix 
 this well with an equal amount of horse manure. ]\Iake a frame of 
 boards a foot and a half deep, and 4 feet wide (like the florists 
 makes their benches only deeper). Pour in a thin layer of the com- 
 pounded soil and pound it down hard, repeat this until you have a 
 foot or a foot and a half deep. This wnll heat so you cannot bear 
 your hand in it. When the temperature gets down to 75 Fahr. 
 (but not below 50) iireak off pieces of the spawn (it is in cakes 
 
56 GARDENHELPS 
 
 like large yeast cakes) and after making holes about 2 inches deep 
 and six inches apart, put in the seed and cover with loamy soil 
 and again beat down evenly and firmly. If the temperature is 
 kept right with no cold drafts and with a little sun from above 
 in about six weeks you may expect mushrooms and the bed will 
 bear for about 30 days. Then renew the bed with an inch of fresh 
 soil, moisten with water, cover with some rough litter and wait 
 for the second crop. In the meantime you can be preparing other 
 beds to begin bearing w^hen the first are about done. Keep the 
 room as near like a showery day in spring as you can,' moist, not 
 too warm, with a little sunshine and lots of patience. The English 
 spawn comes in pressed bricks weighing about 20 ounces and sells 
 for $1.25 a pound. French spawn is a little cheaper. Write to 
 the Agricultural Department, Washington, D. C, for the free 
 bulletin on Mushroom growing. A pound of spawn will plant 10 
 feet square. 
 
 OKRA OR GUMBO. 
 
 This is one of those vegetables not generally used but grow- 
 ing in favor. It does not take kindly to dry situations and gard- 
 eners consider that better vegetables ought to have the water it 
 demands. It is easy of cultivation as it does not seem to be par- 
 ticular about soil. Plant about 2 inches deep in drills two and a 
 half feet apart and when well estal)lished thin to a foot apart. It 
 is a sun plant and wants the warm mmiths and about the same 
 treatment as egg plant; liberal warmth and abundant moisture. 
 Long Green and White Velvet are the two varieties grown. It is 
 used to thicken soups, principally. 
 
 ONIONS. 
 
 One of the most important and remunerative vegetables 
 grown in California. The crop is produced both from seed and sets 
 (which are small seedlings that have been pulled when about like 
 small marbles). An ounce of seed will sow 100 feet in drills; 6 
 pounds will plant an acre. It Avill pay to have the soil very clean 
 from weeds, let them all come up and turn them under and rake 
 the soil well before sowing the seed and you will save a lot of 
 back aching work weeding them out. To soav the seed, mix it 
 wdth sand, wet the sand, let it stand overnight, or until the seed 
 begins to swell, then sow in shallow drills about one foot apart, 
 cover lightly and keep from drying out by keeping a slow stream 
 
GARDENHELPS 57 
 
 of water runiiitijj:. Onion culture requires deep rich, loamy or 
 sarid^' soil ( the river beds in California generally furnish excellent 
 provisions in soil material). You can hardly make the soil too 
 rich as the onion is a gross feeder. 
 
 Sow seed as early as Pel^ruary so the crop can get well estab- 
 lished before warm weather comes. The plants should begin to 
 appear in about 6 or 8 days, and if you have a wheel hoe it will 
 be very usef\d at the stage when the small weeds appear (purslain 
 generally comes). Cut the soil away from the rows first, then 
 after they are larger reverse and throw toward them or give level 
 cultivation. The dirt sliould never be thrown on the bulb of the 
 plant. If you prefer the seed bed plan you will sow your seed 
 in a bed and transplant to the open rows you have prepared and 
 enriched before hand. The transplanting method gives more uni- 
 formity in size of bulbs and a larger per cent of large onions. 
 When the plants are growing from seed you cannot tell which are 
 runts and should be discarded. 
 
 Some growers make a seed bed over a l)ed of horse manure, so 
 as to f(n-ce the seed ahead for early transplanting, sowing from 
 September to Pel)ruary. Seed in bed are sown broadcast and 
 when pressed down, covered with some mulching or cloth to pre- 
 vent drying, and watered through the light covering. The cov- 
 ering is to protect the l)ed from washing by rains as well as to 
 conserve the moisture. Warm, light soils bring the crop forward 
 most rapidly. When moved from the seed bed the plants are 
 lifted with a shovel ; separated, top and roots shortened about 
 one-half and then dropped in the prepared rows and set with 
 dibble three inches apart and the soil well firmed around them 
 (a most important matter in all transplanting to keep out dry 
 wind and to retain moisture). The cost of growing a crop from 
 seedlings and then transplanting is more than growing from sets, 
 but weeding and thinning rows from seeds in the field, add to the 
 cost of cultivation. 
 
 Some onions produce "top onions" or sets instead of seed and 
 should be planted 8 to 10 inches apart in the row^ and rows 2 feet 
 apart. Let the sets get well dried and then store them in a cool 
 place, not in a deep pile. It is risky to place in sacks or l)arrels, 
 where they are apt to mould in damp weather. Plant sets in Peb- 
 ruary in rows a foot apart. If you cannot make straight rows 
 without, use the garden line. When they are up well, spread a 
 
58 GARDENHELPS 
 
 top dressing of well-rotted manure over them, just before a rain if 
 you can strike it. Thin out for use and leave the rest far enough 
 apart to grow large onions, some for winter use and some for more 
 sets. You can make "])ottnm sets" by sowing seed thickly and 
 when they are al)Out the size of marbles pull up and dry thorough- 
 ly and store in a cool place till you want to plant again. If you 
 sow seed as often as you plant the sets you will have a succession. 
 
 The principal varieties are Bermuda, Australian Brown, Large 
 Red Wethersfield and Prizetaker (a beautiful yellow onion). 
 Large IMexican grows to weigh 6 pounds. Yellow Cracker is an 
 onion that matures quickly and is desirable for early culture. The 
 White Bermuda is also an early favorite. White Portugal (silver 
 skin) is a good keeper and fine for the garden. Six hundred 
 bushels per acre is a large crop. 
 
 Onion diseases: Rust (leaves turn yellow and plant wilts and 
 dies) comes from soil infection. Rotate crop and burn all diseased 
 onions. Black smut kills first the leaf and the death of the whole 
 plant follows. Drill in sulphur and lime, about an ounce of the 
 mixture to a fifty foot drill. The onion maggot, much like the 
 cabl)age maggot, feeds at the roots. Lime the soil and use bi- 
 sulphide of carlion by piercing holes in the soil, pouring in the 
 liquid and closing hole so it will penetrate the surrounding area. 
 Chives, Ciboule and Shallots are all onion flavored plants not 
 much used but raised like onions. 
 
 PARSLEY. 
 
 Grown much the same as lettuce, parsley makes a fine border 
 plant in the garden. It is used both as a salad and as a garnish 
 and is especially useful made into tea as a specific for urinary 
 troubles and is properly classed with the members of the herb 
 garden. It desires rich soil and plenty of water. It is ornamental 
 as well as useful but by no means can be classed as having much 
 commercial demand. Sow in drills 1 foot apart, cover seed Vl' an 
 inch, thin to 4 inches. 
 
 PARSNIP. 
 
 This useful vegetable needs deep permeable soil and prefers 
 the cool months and can be planted from August to January. It 
 resents being placed in shallow, hard, soil, but responds with 
 liberal quantity and quality in the right location. Sow in rich soil 
 in drills 18 inches apart. The seed being small must not be cov- 
 
GARDENHELPS 59 
 
 ered more than half an inch deep. When they eonie up, thin to 
 8 inches apart. Tlie Long i^inooth and Student are the two varieties 
 of standard growth and used either for tield or garden. The in- 
 sects that occasionally trouble it must be treated to arsenites- 
 (Paris green aiid tlour, one part green to 20 parts tiour, dusted on 
 the plant for the Avorms to eat.) It has often been said that pars- 
 nips need to be frozen to give them the required flavor, but this is 
 a mistaken idea as far as California is concerned, and fine flavored 
 parsnips raised in rich deep sandy soil not one-fourth of a mile 
 from the salt water are very line in size, texture and flavor. 
 
 PEAS. 
 
 Both for garden and fleld culture, the pea is an all-tlie-year 
 crop and is planted during every month of the year, l^ut it is more 
 productive in the cool months and less liable to mildew. It is an 
 ever present crop if rightly managed, though in hot interior lo- 
 cations it is not so profltable. It prefers light frost to drying heat, 
 and will endure more of the cold than of the heat, so the sum- 
 mer crop should be planted where it can, if possible, have the 
 protection of sliade from the hqt afternoon sun of summer. 
 Near the coast peas that come in in unexpected times always 
 bring good prices, for there is no more desirable vegetable than 
 peas produced from California soil. Peas grown from September 
 to ]\Iarch should be placed on the sunniest slopes or situati(nis, for 
 while the pea will resist much cold, it must have sutficient warmth 
 to amply supply its demand for rapid growth. Seed sown in Aug- 
 ust and Septeml)er can be depended on to give you a supply in 
 December, Ijut there is not a month in the year when you may not 
 plant and expect and receive returns commensurate with the care 
 and management used in raising. Warm situations are preferable 
 for winter crop and cool half shaded locations for summer. North 
 hillsides facing south and east where the afternoon sun is soon 
 hid are good summer resorts for the pea. 
 
 Peas are divided into early, medium and late, according to the 
 time in which they l)ear their crop. Alaska is the earliest of all, 
 followed l)y McLean's Little Gem, American Wonder, Xott's Ex- 
 celsior and Gradus. The "mediums" are Advancer, Strategem 
 and Heroine. The larger, later standards are Yorkshire Hero, 
 Telephone and Champion of England. 
 
 Peas are much used for gathering nitrogen from the air and 
 giving it again to the soil, Canadian Field peas, Whippoorwill and 
 
60 GARDENHELPS 
 
 Scotch Blues are used for this purpose extensively in orange and 
 lemon orchards. 
 
 The first early variety should be sown in October. One pound 
 will sow 60 feet of rows, if sown thicddy. though this should be 
 governed largely by the soil ; if light and thin the seed should be 
 sown thinly. Too much nitrogenous manure make the peas run 
 to vines. The peas do a large amount of nitrogen gathering them- 
 selves, as you will see if ycui examine the nodules (little warts) 
 that come on the roots which are really nitrogen sacks filled to 
 give back to the soil. If you pile in too much nitrogen it is like 
 "carr.ving coals to Newcastle". 
 
 A good plan for summer peas is to plant a row of sweet corn 
 several weeks before you do the peas ; the corn will furnish shade 
 if planted on the west, and the peas will cling to them for support 
 after you have gathered the corn. In winter plant the rows east 
 and west so the sun will shine longest down them. 
 
 Mildew attacks peas as w^ell as beans, in long continued warm 
 weather. A sovereign remedy is to put in a small quantity of sul- 
 phur in the drills when you plant, and ;is soon as up sprinkle sul- 
 phur to prevent the appearance of mildew. Pea weevil some- 
 times attacks the seed peas and beans, in which event use bi-sul- 
 phide of carbon in the closed receptacle that holds the peas; it is 
 a small black beetle that lays its eggs in the growing peas and de- 
 velops after ripening. A repellant composed of sand mixed wuth 
 phenyl and sown Avith the peas will keep the bugs from coming 
 to the peas. If the weevils are discovered in the peas they may 
 be subjected to a bath of hot water up to 145 dgrees for one hour 
 and it will not destroy the germinating qualities of the pea but it 
 will etfectually dispose of the weevil. 
 
 Perhaps there is no place in the world where the florescent 
 variety of peas are so easily and profusely grown. Sweet peas 
 laden the air with their perfume and will eliml) a six-foot wire 
 netting and still go on above it. Th(\v can be planted as often as 
 the garden pea, and similarly cared for, execpt that you keep the 
 blossoms continually picked off and the crop is almost perpetual. 
 
 PEPPERS. 
 
 The pepper is usually an annual, and the field crop as well as 
 the garden product is gathered at the end of the ripening season. 
 Often in the tree form it lives for several years and is both orna- 
 mental and serviceable in culinary preparations, as well as hav- 
 
GARDENHELPS 61 
 
 ing positive medieina] (iiuilitics. Peppers are usually started early 
 iu the season in boxes in sheltered plaees and after ground is warm 
 are put in the open. An ounce of seed will produce 1500 plants. 
 It needs strong uniform heat to germinate them. When plants 
 are 3 inches high transplant in rows '■] feet apart and allow 2 feet 
 between the plants. Keep soil well cultivated to conserve mois- 
 ture for while the pepper does not do its best in water soaked soil, 
 yet it requires even moisture from lime of sowing seed till it is 
 harvested. It will endure drouth and hardship, but it is unprofit- 
 able to permit it to suffer for a needed supply of water. The dis- 
 tance apart we have given is where a horse and cultivator is to 
 to be used but for garden cidture they may be as near as one foot 
 apart and rows eighteen inches. 
 
 The Bull Xnse is a larg(\ earl^• variety. ^Mammoth is as large 
 but of milder disposition. Golden Dawn is really a Yellow Bull 
 Nose. The tomalo-shape pepper has no particular merit over 
 others except for making stuffed pickles. Ruby King is the i)op- 
 ular favorite, in having red pods "> or 6 inches long and o inches in 
 diameter with Hesh thick, sweet and mild. The long red Cayenne 
 is pungent and used for pickling. Ked ('hili is snudl and piuigent 
 and used for nudving pepper sauce. Cherry Red, the tree form, is 
 ornamental as it has blossoms and ripe fruit on the shrub at the 
 same time. The pepper has few enemies and seems pungent 
 enough to ward off all comers. It is planted from April to July. 
 
 POTATOES. 
 
 There is no more imporlanl crop than the potato, for if wheat 
 is the staff of life, the potato is its first assistant. (3n subirrigated 
 land, river Ixittom lands, ami l)ench lands skirting on i-ivers or 
 valleys, the potato is grown without iri'igation. but almost every- 
 where if two croi)s are raised in the seasmi irrigation is a valua!)le 
 lu^lp. On the higli nu^sas the Avintei- (;rop is planted in February 
 and generally the rains arc^ sufficient t(^ make a generous crop. In 
 the irrigated portions of the state potatoes are planted at almost 
 any time, but usually in August and September or February and 
 ]March. But where irrigation is provided there is no reasmi why 
 potatoes cannot be pr(nluced lu^arly the entire year, care being 
 taken to rotate and not follow several crops of potatoes in suc- 
 cession, as the soil sometimes beconu^s infected and the tubers are 
 spoiled l\v scab. December and January are the frostiest months 
 in California so the aim is to have the crop dodge these months 
 
62 GARDENHELPS 
 
 by the planting' in August so the crop can be harvested by Novem- 
 ber, then phint in February and dig the crop three months after. 
 Now if you have sandy, moist soil there is no reason why you 
 shoukl not phmt again in April and make the third crop. Light 
 rich soil is best for potatoes so the root system can extend readily, 
 if heavy soils only are obtainable they must be improved by add- 
 ing limes and roughage, all plowed or spaded in and thoroughly 
 decomposed before the seed is planted. It will be seen from the 
 nature of things that deep working of the soil is essential in order 
 that the tuliers may not be constrained in their elfort to expand. 
 The level system of cultivation is best unless you have a super- 
 abundance of water, and then it is not wise to use too much ; sog- 
 ged potato is next thing to a d(^se of pikery. The hill system pre- 
 sents a double surface to the sun and the evaporation from the 
 soil is increased. With level cultivation, the soil should be kept 
 very fine to prevent as nuich as possible the moth laying eggs near 
 the roots of the potato as it will do if clods and lumpy ground are 
 l^revalent. Sonu^ raise potatoes under mulching after a thorough 
 irrigation or after tlie wint(n' rains, spreading a thick mat of straw 
 or hay through wliich the plant pushes. The dependence is that 
 there is sul^cient moisture l)eneath to serve the crop till it is ma- 
 tured, the straw mulch keeping out the sun and holding all moist- 
 ure beneath. This will do if there is au abundance of litter at 
 hand to cover the patch good and deep, say six inches, and of 
 course all hoeing is dispensed Avith and weeds do not appear. 
 Greatest care in harvesting should l)e used not to leave the tuber 
 exposed any longer than possible, as the potato moth is instant in 
 season and out of season to fill the eyes of the new tubers with 
 eggs which when stored hatch a crop of Avorms to eat the potatoes- 
 Burbank, Salinas, Early Rose, Early Ohio and many other kinds 
 are sold Imt the first mentioned are the standards and produce 
 clean, smooth tubers. 
 
 It is liest to change seed every year and get it from the north 
 as better crops are secured thereby. Potatoes are planted in rows 
 two and a half feet apart with hills a foot apart. The seed may 
 be in whole tubers or potatoes cut in quarters. The government 
 repor^s are of the opinion that Avhole, fair-sized potatoes produce 
 best crops. If you were to save your own seed, it would be Avise 
 to select the smoothest, best specimens, and if this were followed 
 np every season the time would be well spent as the improvement 
 in "breeding up" would show marked advantage. 
 
G A R D E N H E L P S 63 
 
 Fortunately we are not troubled with the Colorado potato 
 beetle, but the potato moth (same pest that attacks the tomatoes) 
 is always rea(l^• to get in its M'ork. This or any bitina' inscet is dis- 
 couraged and eventually east down by giving the plants a sprink- 
 ling of Paris greeu mixed with tiour. (See article on remedies.) 
 
 If the i)i>tato vines get the "early blight" (foliage tiums 
 brown and spotted and soon plant dies), use Bordeaux mixture 
 by spraying it on just as soon as you discover the disease. No 
 time should be lost as the disease woi'ks rapidly. 
 
 The potato dealers when they store their .potatoes resort to 
 the use of fumigation with sulphur candles or bi-sulphide of car- 
 bon to destroy any insects that mny hatch after the potatoes are in 
 the sack or bin. The bi-sulphide is as explosive as gasoline and 
 care must be used in preventing a light in its neighljorhood. 
 
 In the spring before planting it is well to give the potatoes an 
 immunity bath made hy dissolving one ounce of corrosive sub- 
 limate (rank poison) in Ki gallons of water. Put the tubers be- 
 fore cutting in a sack and hang them in the solution for an hour 
 and a half. It is a preventative against "scab". Three hundred 
 l)ushels is a fair yield of potatoes from an acr-e. 
 
 Some people demand that potatoes be spi-outed before they 
 plant them. The danger is if the sprouts get too long they will 
 get rul)bed olT and the potato has lost .just that much time. If 
 potatoes are good and sountl and have well defined eyes tliey will 
 grow in any fairly good soil, the more pliable the better. 
 
 PUMPKINS. 
 
 These grow to inuuense size in C^alifornia. An ounce of seed 
 will plant 40 hills, enough for several families if iu)thing befalls 
 them. Big Tom, ]\lammolh Tours and Cushaw are all large and 
 you might as well have the largest going. The Connecticut Yellow 
 is rather indilTerent and hard to get over its staid New England 
 ways. It seems to avoid the spread of the giants and does not over 
 work itself save on color, for it is as yellow as ever only more so. 
 It has the same enemies to contend with as the other members of 
 the family find are insulting to them and the treatment for the 
 enemies of the melon, cucumber and cantaloupe will apply to the 
 pumpkin. We plant four months in the year and they grow 
 eight months. Like the smaller mend)ers of the family if they 
 run too nmeh to vines cut them back and let them know thcA- are 
 
64 GARDENHELPS 
 
 expected to raise pumpkins, and not make a survey of all the 
 adjoining territory. I'lant in hills 8 feet apart. 
 
 RADISHES. 
 
 All kinds, shapes and sizes grow the entire year and if you 
 do not sow them they will sow themselves. Eound, long, oblong 
 and spiral; red, white and purple; strong, medium and mild; from 
 the little French Breakfast to the long White Chinese, which grows 
 large enough to fill a quart measure. Sow at any time and place, 
 where your fancy dictates and you know you can give them water, 
 and they will give returns in about 30 or 40 days. The Triumph 
 will mature in 21 days. The Chinese and Spanish kinds are especi- 
 ally used in the cool months and French Breakfast in the summer 
 months. An ounce of seed will be sufficient for a l)ed 4 feet square. 
 
 Being a near relative of the turnip and cabliage it gets some 
 of their enemies when they have more than will go round. We 
 never do anything to them, l)ut just nuike a new l)ed in a new 
 place. You can not put or spray anything on them with safety 
 if you want to eat them in a few days. 
 
 SWEET POTATO. 
 
 The sweet potato in California is usually "great", and in 
 any loamy, sandy soil with enough water to keep it growing will 
 give good returns. Flow deep and level well. In large fields the 
 shoo IS are planted by machinery in shallow, wide furrows and as 
 tney grow the earth is pulled toward the plants and in some lo- 
 calities finally made into ridges, l)ut what we have said about level 
 cultivation respecting Irish potatoes applies to the sweet potato. 
 The tubers want to go down rather than up for their moisture 
 and plant food. The sweet potato grows readily from cuttings, 
 if planted out directly after severing from the parent vine, and in 
 moist ground; this method is followed if you only have a plant of 
 a rare kind and you want many plants in a short time. The usual 
 method is to plant whole sweet potatoes in a seed bed of sand 
 where hundreds of sprouts will come on the potato. These are 
 carefully broken off and planted in the drills as before mentioned. 
 You can make a drill in the open garden and fill a trench with 
 horse manure then spread on good sandy soil six inches or more 
 deep, wet it and tramp it down, thus improvising a hot bed and 
 when it has steamed some of the heat away plant the potatoes, 
 keep moist and in about eight weeks more or less you Avill get 
 
GARDENHELPS 65 
 
 sprouts to plant; when you pull them oft' the tubers they will 
 take with them the small bunch of roots they have made ready 
 to start in business with. The tubers in the pit wdll then send up 
 more sprouts for a second crop if you need them later. We plant 
 in the oj^en from March to July according to locality. 
 
 To get early potatoes, instead of pulling off the sprouts you 
 take a whole potato out of the warm pit and cut a piece of potato 
 with each bunch of sprouts and plant that. It goes on undis- 
 turbed, while the sprouts have to catch on again. You have to 
 cultivate or hoe the weeds out after planting till the vines cover 
 the ground. The rows should be at least 3 feet apart and it is 
 wise, when the space is all tilled with vines with a sharp spade to 
 cut the ends of the vines to prevent them piling over each other. 
 They also give more attention to making tubers and a better crop 
 is the result. 
 
 To preserve the potatoes after digging you must in some way 
 sweat them. Pile them up around a cone of wire netting set up 
 endwise, make the cone or roll fast with stakes, pile the potatoes 
 up around this wire roll and form a sort of chimney. Cover the 
 pile Avith straw and the potatoes will sweat like a beaver. Un- 
 cover in the middle of the day and let the perspiration dry off, 
 then cover again and repeat till the potatoes are dried out suffici- 
 ently to permanently cover with hay or straw enough to keep 
 out sun and rain, but so that air can penetrate. This will be 
 found the safest way to keep sweet potatoes, which if piled up 
 and left to themselves get dry rot, wet rot, black rot and several 
 other kinds, because they are so thin skinned. The varieties used 
 are Yellow Nansemond, Large White and Jersey Red. JMake seed 
 bed in February and plant until May. 
 
 RHUBARB OR PIE PLANT. 
 
 Sow the seed early in February in drills IS inches apart, cover 
 an inch deep and thin the plants to 6 inches apart. Keep down 
 all weeds and when the plants are about one year old, plant in a 
 bed well enriched by an a1)undance of well rotted manure. Set 
 them 4 feet apart each way, and do not cut the stalk till next 
 year. Keep them well supplied with manure. If you plant roots 
 in the fall you may expect to cut pie plant the next year. After 
 the second year it can be increased by division of roots. Rhubarb 
 needs rich soil, not so particular as many plants about the texture, 
 if it is only retentive of moisture, it cannot endure a high degree 
 
66 GARDENHELPS 
 
 of heat and must have good mulching to keep the moisture in the 
 soil. It grows to perfection in the foothill regions of the state. 
 The Crimson Winter is considered a decided acquisition and will 
 grow so much better under all conditions than the older kinds, 
 that many are raising rhubarb who could not raise it before. It 
 matures six months earlier than the Linneus and is a constant in- 
 stead of a periodical bearer. 
 
 A grub % of an inch long is its enemy and has its home in 
 the wild dock. Burn the wild dock and the roots of rhubarb that 
 are attacked, or the eggs will be laid in the roots. 
 
 ROSELLE. 
 
 This plant of the hibiscus family has flowers something like a 
 small hollyhock. The calyx of the flower, in fact the whole plant 
 is of a mucilaginous nature and all can be used to make a very 
 appetizing form of jelly, about the color of cranberry. The calyx 
 of the flower can be dried or kept indefinitely and made into 
 jelly at any time. While not much used because we have so much 
 fruit, yet it supplies a place, where fruit is scarce in the form of 
 jelly that costs no more than other kinds and is produced from 
 the plant the first season. It should rather be classed with the 
 fruits than the vegetables, though the jelly can be used to thicken 
 soups if wanted. A row of it is quite ornamental as a border 
 plant or backing for smaller plants. It is a sun-loving plant and 
 wants a long season. Plant in boxes early and transplant. 
 
 SALSIFY OR VEGETABLE OYSTER- 
 
 This is also quite an ornamental plant as the purple- thistle- 
 like flowers grow from 3 to 4 feet high the second year on going to 
 seed. It is the roots that are particularly useful (grown about like 
 carrots or parsnips) and give a most valuable addition to the list 
 of table vegetables, having a decided oyster flavor and being very 
 appetizing either boiled or fried. The "Sandwich Island" grows 
 to an immense size. Sow from September to May in drills 2 feet 
 apart. Thin to 6 inches. 
 
 SPINACH. 
 
 This may be an all-year plant in California under irrigation 
 and is like parsley a beautiful border plant for the vegetable 
 garden. If raised in connection with that plant the shadings of 
 green blend most harmoniously. It is used for "greens" and by 
 successive plantings ma}' be had constantly; its handsome curly 
 
GARDENHELPS 67 
 
 leaves are ever bright and clean. The New Zealand variety has 
 won praise in California for its better drouth resisting powers 
 than our native American plant. The trouble has been that some 
 have not learned how to use it, taking the whole plant and boiling 
 it, and in so doing finding it very tough in spots. It grows so pro- 
 lific-ally that only the tender ends need be used, and those before 
 any sign of seed pods are visible. When boiled tender, not even 
 :\lissouri can furnish ''greens" to beat it. The native spinach 
 should be sown in drills a foot apart and thinned to six inches 
 while the New Zealand will cover several feet in circumference, 
 shading the ground with a thick mat of vegetation which helps 
 it to resist so successfully the dry heat. But to have tender 
 spinach it must have enough water to keep it crisp and green. 
 Chickens that are confined under the new methods of poultry 
 raising enjoy it as they do the companion plant from Australia, a 
 triplex semibaccata. The latter also can be used ornamentally 
 with good effect. Sow when you feel like it. 
 
 SQUASHES. 
 
 All kinds and shapes can be raised nearly all the year. From 
 the little summer variety to the giant Chili, Summer Crook Neck, 
 Boston ]\Iarrow and Hard Shell Turban, there are in all more than 
 a dozen to choose fnnn. All require about the treatment accorded 
 melons and pumpkins and tlie same enemies need the same treat- 
 ment. Plant the bush varieties about 4 feet apart. Hubbard and 
 Turbans 8 feet apart. Plant in February in boxes to transplant 
 again. 
 
 SORREL. 
 
 A plant not generally in use Init cooked and used as spinach. 
 Some persons prefer it mixed with spinach as it has a tart flavor 
 that is quite agreeable. It is sown in the cool months at any time 
 and in drills 18 inches apart. It remains in the ground and makes 
 an excellent border, if on the north side, and not too much exposed 
 to the sun, as the action of heat increases its acidity, 
 
 TOMATOES. 
 
 One of the most useful and reliable garden products in Cali- 
 fornia and in what is termed frostless ground the plant lives and 
 bears nearly the entire season. The seed can be planted in such 
 locations as early as January in boxes in sheltered places aAvay 
 from the night winds and put in the open in March, when seed can 
 
68 GARDENHELPS 
 
 also be sown in the open ground if desired. The success of the to- 
 mato depends largely in keeping it in vigorous, rapid growing 
 condition, and if unchecked in its early stages it will soon develop 
 fruit. In respect to fruiting it must be remembered that hardly 
 any plant will successfully pollenize below a temperature of 70 
 degrees. Often complaint is made that the blossoms do not set 
 fruit ; the reason is obvious, there has not been sufficient warmth 
 to make the pistillate blossoms receptive to the pollen from the 
 staminate flower. Both are borne on the same plant and require 
 warmth, a light breeze or the action of insects to perfectly accom- 
 plish the work of pollenization. 
 
 An ounce of seed will produce 1500 plants and if sown in 
 boxes should be transplanted into other boxes a distance of 4 or 
 5 inches apart and Avhen strong and stocky should be set out in 
 well enriched soil 4 feet apart. By supporting the vines and vig- 
 orously trimming the non-bearing laterals the plant will produce 
 more fruit. It is customary with some to train to a single stock, 
 tied to an upright stake, leaving only enough foliage to prevent 
 sun-scald. 
 
 Early plants can be secured by planting seed in bottomless 
 cans and starting them in the house, letting them grow in the cans 
 leaving them undisturbed until you transplant to the open ground 
 after removing the can. The cans are prepared by putting them 
 in the fire, when top and bottom will fall out and the side seam 
 open leavinsf only a cube. This you fasten tos'ether with a piece 
 of wire (old cans and baling wire are a public asset here), this 
 set in a flat box and fill with good sterilized soil (soil that has 
 burned under a brush heap killing: all weed seed and insects). 
 Then sow seed, and water carefully, finally leaving one or two in 
 the can to transplant. By this means your plants never receive a 
 check from start to time of planting in the open, and if carefully 
 watered will grow ou without hesitation. 
 
 There are more than twenty different kinds. Earliana is, as 
 its name implies, one of the earliest large smooth vigorous, grow- 
 ing tomatoes, and very prolific. The several Stones are bright, 
 smooth and meaty. Crimson Cushion is a good variety for 
 winter bearing. Ponderosa is the largest fruited tomato grown, 
 often weighing from 2 to 4 pounds each. It has few seeds, with 
 firm meat and is a healthy, luxuriant grower. Acme and Beauty 
 are both meritorious, producing smooth crimson fruit, of a fair size 
 
GARDENHELPS 69 
 
 and excellent flavor. The small tomatoes like cherry, pear, straw- 
 berry and yellow plum are prolific, but little used commercially. 
 All are very easily grown, as is also the luisk tomato which once 
 in the garden, is hard to eradicate. In favorable seasons large 
 shipments are made to markets in the eastern states and the winter 
 crop of tomatoes is a source of profitable income. _ To secure a 
 good winter crop plants must be set as early as August and kept 
 vigorously growing when an abundance of small fruit set on the 
 vines before the days liecome too cool for pollenization. All the 
 fruit set no matter how small will grow and come to perfection 
 under the winter sun. 
 
 The diseases of the tomato are not many but the "wilt" is 
 the most distressing. Where it appears, the best remedy is to im- 
 mediately pull up the plant and burn it l)efore others are infected; 
 it is a sudden collapse of the entire plant without evident cause. 
 The brown spot of the leaf, similar to the potato disease, will soon 
 destroy a plant, and Bordeaux should be applied to the diseased 
 plant, and all in its vicinity, as soon as discovered. Nematodes 
 is a disease of the roots, the plant begins to fail and faint, turns 
 yellow and finally dies. On examinatimi you will find the roots 
 are covered with nodules (warts) which prove it to be a soil dif- 
 ficulty. The plant must l)e pulled up and the soil treated wnth a 
 good application of unslacked lime. Plant some other vegetable 
 before you put tomatoes there again. The Avorm that is so severe 
 on your corn, likewise attacks the tomato and either must be 
 picked off by hand or applications of Paris green and flour, one 
 part to twenty, must be used to destroy insects of any and all 
 descriptions that bite the foliage or the fruit. 
 
 The rot of the tomato is a very serious malady, if permitted 
 to spread. The ripe fruit, and fruit in all stages, are infected by 
 a spot, at first violet colored then turning to brown that rots the 
 tomato. The application of Bordeaux in the early stages is a 
 partial preventative, but it is found that the application of one 
 ounce of Iduestone in six ounces of water, well dissolved, then 
 applied with a brush, rubbing in the liquid on the spot, is a cure. 
 All diseased tomatoes should lie gathered and burned, not left on 
 the ground near the vines. If the "ringer" or leaf hopper ap- 
 pears, a repellant of ashes mixed with kerosene is obnoxious to 
 these insects which erode or eat the young plants. The fruit worm 
 before mentioned (Helioanthis armiger) feeds ravenously on the 
 
70 • GARDENHELPS 
 
 i'ruit. If possible it should be destroyed without putting poison on 
 the tomatoes, unless the fruit is small. 
 
 TURNIPS. 
 
 This is a useful crop for the cool months and can be better 
 sown broadcast or in drills 15 inches apart and thinned to 8 
 inches apart. An ounce of seed will sow" 150 feet of drills. Tur- 
 nips thrive in almost any soil but prefer deep loam well enriched 
 with manure. They can be sown from September until April. If 
 sown in drills they are more easily cared for, weeded, or irrigated. 
 
 There are ten or more varieties to select from. Both the white 
 and Swedish rutabagas bring good returns for care bestowed. 
 Sweet G-erman is one of the very best for table use, as is the Im- 
 proved Yellow rutabaga. The turnip has some of the family 
 troubles left over from its cabbage inheritance. A serious one is 
 the fly which can be subdued by sprays of kerosene and water, one 
 part kerosene to 10 of water. 
 
The climate and long period for garden operations in Cali- 
 fornia make it desirable and almost indispensible that the garden 
 be supplied with the htn-bs so nsefnl for ])t)th flavoring and medical 
 uses, so effective in the hands of our elderly nurses. The direc- 
 tions for sowing the seed, most of which are very minute, are to 
 cover them in well prepared soil in drills with not more than twice 
 their thickness of earth, and keep moist till they germinate. They 
 can all be sown in the cool months and some of them will mature 
 the first season. To get the most out of them they should be 
 gathered before they get into full bloom and be carefully hung 
 away in paper sacks to dry and be ready for use on demand. 
 
 ANISE. 
 
 This plant is so common as to be considered one of our wild 
 roadside plants, yet it possesses an agreeable aromatic flavor. The 
 seeds as well as the plants are used for cordials and garnishing. 
 
 SWEET BASIL. 
 
 A seasoning of very high flavor and used in soups and stews 
 and spiced meats. 
 
 CARAWAY. 
 
 This is well known for the seed it produces abundantly which 
 is used by confectioners in bread and pastry, giving agreeable 
 flavor. 
 
 CATNIP. 
 
 Catnip grows \vell, Init few however raise it. It makes good 
 bee pasture as well as having medicinal qualities of a sedative 
 nature. The leaves are used for seasoning. 
 
 CORIANDER. 
 
 The seeds only of this plant are employed by confectioners and 
 restauranteurs to give flavor to li(iUors. 
 
 DILL. 
 
 The seeds only are used. They have a piuigent aromatic taste 
 
72 GARDENHELPS 
 
 and are used as a condiment and for mixing with cucumbers as 
 pickles. 
 
 SWEET FENNEL. 
 
 Both leaves and seeds are used. The leaves boiled are used 
 in sauces and make a beautiful garnish. The seeds are used for 
 flavoring drinks and confectionery. 
 
 HOREHOUND. 
 
 Entire plant is valuable, when dried, for seasoning and in the 
 manufacture of well known cough remedies and candies. 
 
 LAVENDER. 
 
 One of the most beautiful as well as fragrant plants, emitting 
 a most delicate and delightful perfume. Used in the manufacture 
 of perfumery. No flower border is complete without it. 
 
 SWEET MARJORAM. 
 
 The leaves and tender shoots are highly prized for season- 
 ing by culinary department of the home. 
 
 ROSEMARY. 
 
 A native wild plant yielding a distinctly agreeable perfume 
 and by a few used as seasoning in dinner preparations of vege- 
 table composition. Cultivated, it makes a most beautiful shrub. 
 
 SAGE. 
 
 One of the most easily grown and extensively used of all our 
 family of aromatic herbs and in seasonings and dressing almost 
 indispensible. While it grows so profusely and easily, it is so 
 often put in neglected places and forgotten that when the leaves 
 are needed an order has to be sent to the drug store or grocer, 
 when the garden should supply it at small cost. 
 
 THYME. 
 
 Much prized by some persons, but not so generally desired as 
 sage for seasoning meats or vegetables and soups. 
 
 WORMWOOD. 
 
 This plant possesses medicinal qualities of a bitter nature. It 
 is quite as valual^le in the poultry yard as anywhere, as a preventa- 
 tive of some prevalent disease in fowls. It is cleansing in its 
 effects. 
 
m FlowerinQT Plants and Shrubs M 
 
 PJ " m 
 
 ®®'®®®'®®:®®@'®®'®®®®®:@®®®'®®®a 
 
 This list •will grow and thrive where there is an annual rain- 
 fall of ten inehes and endure with less, but all are benefited by 
 an occasional irrigation. 
 
 The first on the list are the Acacias, in many forms from a 
 delicate fern-leaved shrnl) to the tall spreading specimens like 
 A. Melanoxylon. i\[()st of them have dark green, slender foliage 
 and an a))nndance of yellow bloom. There are some thirty-five 
 specimens to select from, nearly all of which will grow with the 
 annual rainfall of Southern California. 
 
 Ceretonia siliqua ; Casuarina, several sorts growing to ma- 
 jestic trees; Guadaloupensis Cupressus, or Guadaloupe cypress and 
 C.vpi'fss sempervirens ; Phoenician Juniper and Lawson c.A'press are 
 among the evei'greens that make imposing objects in the landscape. 
 Of the i^ines there are Pinus Ilalpensis. P. Insigna. P. Pinea. P. 
 ]Monterey and P. Torre.vana. Pepper or Schinus molle is a great 
 favorite, Grevillea Robusta is a tall growing tree with old-gold 
 colored bloom, commonly known as Australian Silk oak. The 
 grevillea family is quite extensive. The handsome shrub with 
 scarlet blossoms is the best of the few ustnl in California- 
 
 The Eucalyptus group are abounding growers and can be 
 selected to suit almost any localit.v. from the E. globulus, which 
 delights in lovr moist situations to the E. rudis which will endure 
 the extreme heat of the desert situations. E. rostrata. E. coryno- 
 calyx and E. robusta are fine specimens for dry situations. INIyso- 
 porum and Pittisporum, low growing shrubs with thick leaves 
 and fragrant blossoms, are desirable. Mysoporum latifolia has a 
 lighter shade of green and is well liked. 
 
 All the Lantanas endure light rainy seasons and all cacti, 
 some of them giving exquisite masses of bloom. The Euphorbias — 
 crown of thorns — the ^Melalucea or bottle brushes ; Lavendula, and 
 the wild native shrub of the same order, bearing feathery, olive 
 green foliage, known as rosemary, completes a partial list (which 
 might be greatly extended) of the groups most serviceable in re- 
 sisting drouth. 
 
74 GARDENHELPS 
 
 SHRUBS THAT ENJOY SEA WINDS. 
 
 Shrubs and plants that will grow if exposed to heavy sea 
 winds are: Tamarisk plumosa, most graceful and desirable for 
 adornment near the ocean front ; most of the acacias ; Ceretonia sil- 
 iqua; Mysoporum; Pinus Torreyana ; the Pepper; Atriplex Hali- 
 mus (old man) ; the Bottle brushes; Oleanders in various colors; 
 Cupressa Macrocarpa ; Juniparis Phoeniciana; all the low^ growing 
 Veronicas. 
 
 STREET TREES- 
 
 Trees suitable for avenues and streets are Camphor, Acacia 
 dealabata and A. decurrens ; Araucaria Bidwillii and A. Brasili- 
 3nsis; Eucalyptus ficifolia (red flowering) and E. rudis (will 
 stand much hardship); Jacaranda miamosafolia ; ^^lagnolia ; Rub- 
 ber and Grevillea robusta. The last named stands drouth well, 
 but drops leaves constantly and on that account is not so desirable 
 along sidewalks. 
 
 ORNAMENTAL TREES. 
 
 Some of the most desirable ornamental trees are: Araucaria 
 excelsa, A. Bidwillii; Cedrus deodora ; Acacia riciana (fern fol- 
 iage); A. Baileyana ; A. Cultriformis (odd shaped olive green 
 leaves) ; Arbor vitae ; Thuyas; Banksia Australis ; Italian Cypress; 
 Casuarina equistifolia ; C. Cunningham; C. tunus; Crasus illice- 
 folia ; Cestrum nocturnum ; Cryptomeria ; Cryptomeria elegans, 
 from Japan; Brachychiton acerifolia, or Australian tlame tree; 
 Jacaranda; ^Magnolia granditiora ; Pinus Canariensis; Sequoia gi- 
 gantea (redwood); ^lelia or umbrella tree; St- John's Bread; 
 Monterey Cypress. 
 
 PALMS. 
 
 All the Chamaerops are not ol)trusive like the Phoenix or 
 wide spreading specimens we see so fre(|uently monopolizing the 
 entire front yard. Chamaerops excelsa (windmill palm) is mod- 
 est but gets up out of the way if planted near the sidewalk. The 
 Cocos is very graceful and desirable, especially C. plumosa, C. 
 Australis and C. butyracea are not so well and favorabl.y known. 
 Cycas revoluta or sago palm is a specimen of individual beauty, 
 adapted to almost any situation on the lawn. The Dracenas are 
 numerous and odd but not especially ornamental, except for their 
 positive tropical effects. Seaforthia elegans is the most graceful 
 subject to place in any ornamental grounds; it has a grace and 
 
GARDENHELPS 75 
 
 beauty all its own. All are easily grown in California, bnt like 
 the banana should be put in a sheltered position where the wind 
 W'ill not injure them. The Washington palms, Rob\;sta and So- 
 nera are familiar objects in our landscape, and a long avenue of 
 either is always a striking illustration of the value of uniformity 
 in planting- 
 
 NOVELTIES. 
 
 The Yueeas. Aloes and Bamboos grow in magnificent pro- 
 fusion. Cannas. Callas. Caladiums, Hydrangeas, Hibiscus, Echum 
 simplex (Honey-plant), the graceful crepe-flowered ^latilija poppy 
 are among the novelties. The IMarguerite and Eschscholtzia are 
 familiar to all and never out of place. ^lelianthus, Poinsettia. 
 Poinciana and Papyrus are ever objects of l)eauty. The Spanish 
 broom. Sedum, Crinums and Amaryllis are useful. A profusion 
 of bulbous plants by which to adt»rn the home, are varied in form 
 and color. A wealth of climbing vines is requisite for ornamenta- 
 tion. 
 
 ROSES. 
 
 The rose is here not only the queen Imt in some form can be 
 found in fragrant exposition nearly the entire year. It delights 
 in a soil that is loamy at the surface underlaid by permeable clay. 
 It should be planted in the full sunlight; if it mildews and refuses 
 to produce perfect blossoms in the shade move it to sunny spot; 
 if it continues to mildew discard it and plant the varieties that 
 do not blast so easily. If mildew comes, use sulphur plentifully; 
 if the red rust use the Bordeaux. (See formulas.) 
 
 Standard or tea roses are usually budded to thrifty stock of 
 the native wild rose. Plant some wild roses to be ready to bud on 
 any variety you wish. The Tea roses are called ever-blooming 
 and if rightly eared for, produce new wood constantly, and thus 
 fill up the season with constant masses of fragrant bloom. 
 
 Banksia roses or cluster roses produce small flowers, but an 
 abundance of them. Bengal or China roses are moderate growers, 
 not over fragrant but give compact growth and brilliant colors. 
 The Bourbons make moderate growth and need close pruning. 
 They have thick foliage and blossoms generally of light color. 
 Hybrids are constant bloomers and nearly always give full re- 
 turns from pains bestowed. Hybrid Perpetuals are not perpetual 
 bloomers, but are striking in form and color. Hybrid Teas are 
 
76 GARDENHELPS 
 
 stronger groovers and eonibine freer blooming qualities with rich 
 coloring. The Japan or Riigosas are nsually single flowers with 
 glossy foliage. The moss roses do not thrive well in Southern 
 California. The Noisettes are of American origin, and vigorous 
 growers with a tendency to grow in clusters. The Polyanthas are 
 from Japan, rich in color, bearing panicles of almost perpetual 
 bloom. 
 
 The Prairie roses are not used much in Southern California. 
 There are constantly being grown new shades and forms of ex- 
 cpiisite beauty, some of these are climbers. Kaiserina Augusta Vic- 
 toria, ]\Ieteor, La Marcpie, Cloth of Gold, Xiphetos and ]\Iarechal 
 Xiel. 
 
 TEA ROSES. 
 
 Bon Silene, dark crimson ; Bridesmaid, Catherine ]\Iermet, 
 light flesh; La France, pink; Duchess, IMaman Cochet, Etoile de 
 Lyon, finest yellow ; Gloire de Dijon, buff center, hardy; Madame 
 Joseph Swartz; Papa Gontier, brilliant carmine; Reine Marie Hen- 
 riette. This comprises a partial list, but one generally admired 
 and satisfactory in cultivation. The rose needs feeding liberally 
 with nitrates combined with farm manures. 
 
 CARNATIONS. 
 
 Next to the rose the carnation thrives and delights thousands 
 who find them in profusion here during the winter months. They 
 are easily raised from cuttings with bottom heat. Their variety 
 is as charming as tln-ir fragrance. They can be raised in any 
 good garden soil well enriched- The carnation does not enjoy 
 poverty of soil, responds to liberal supplies of liciuid manure and 
 is generally robust in growth. 
 
 OTHER FLOWERS. 
 
 Ageratum, tall blue and dwarf white and blue, fine for masses 
 and bedding, from half a foot to one and a half feet high. 
 
 Alyssum, white, dwarf and compact for border and edging, 
 easily grown and spreads rapidly. 
 
 Amaranthus, three feet high, good for background to mass 
 among shrubbery; colors: red, crimson, purple and gold. 
 
 Argemone or Mexican poppy is showy with mixed colors, 
 but not a great favorite. 
 
 Asters for Autumn blooming are indispensible for the hum- 
 blest flower garden and are a close rival of the Chrvsanthemum 
 
GARDENHELPS 77 
 
 and a bed or l)order is a source of pride and joy to its possessor 
 for several months in the year. They can be planted in succession 
 and made to cover a long period of blossoming. One to two feet 
 in height. 
 
 Balsams, the old time Lady Slipper with their mixed colors 
 are the gay friends of the snnnner, one to two feet in height. 
 
 Cosmos, from white to scarlet, from one to four feet high, 
 good for back of border. 
 
 California Poppy — Eschscholtzia — golden yellow and the re- 
 cent creation of scarlet. Cannas, Linum, Nigelia, ^Marigold, Migno- 
 nette, Nasturtiums, Delphiniums, Lobelias, Nemphillias, Phlox, 
 Chrysanthemums. Stocks, Salpiglossis, Sweet Peas. 
 
 Among the list of perennials are, Dianthus, Shasta Daisy, 
 Gaillardias, Petunias and many others. 
 
 A few flowers require partial shade. The following are best 
 suited for the north side of building: Callas, English Ivy, Pansies, 
 Violets. Campanula, Gloxinia, Wallflower and the Swan Eiver 
 Daisy, free bloomer with flowers similar to the Cineraria, native 
 of Australia. 
 
 Calendula is a sunloving plant of the portulaca type, low 
 growing and good for rock work- Calceolaria (sown in August) 
 beautifully mottled, blotched, striped, one and a half feet high. 
 Calendula, yellow striped, one foot high; Calleopsis, profuse 
 bloomer, brown and yellow, fine for masses and border, two feet 
 high ; Candytuft, good for border or masses, colors range from 
 scarlet to white, one foot high; Catchfly (silene) mixed colors, 
 one foot high ; Celosia or coxcomb, mixed colors, from dwarf to 
 two feet, — the list could l)e continued through all the range of 
 the annuals and biennials with profit, but search flower catalogues 
 that make yearly lists and select from them. 
 
Classification and Propagation 
 
 THE BEST KNOWN FAMILIES. 
 
 We give from various authorities on hortieulture, some sta- 
 tistics in relation to the great families of plants as now known 
 and classified. The holanieal family name usually ends in -aceae. 
 There are two hundred families or orders of tlowering plants: 
 7,000 genera; more than 100,000 species described. There are 
 many more tlowerless plants, as ferns, mosses, mushrooms, fungi, 
 liclu'ns, sea weed and microscopic plants. 
 
 The (!rowfoot family includes the clematis, marsh marigold, 
 cow slip, columbine, adonis, buttercup, larkspur, aconite, peony, 
 nigeliji and oliiers, making ov(n- 12,000 species of jilauts living 
 in all paiis of the wor-ld. There ai'e one hundred species of 
 clematis known, and fifty distinct species of larkspur (delphinium) 
 oidy a few of which ;ii-e cultivated. Southern California has some 
 of the most intense indigo blue varieties. The peony is found 
 wild iu viciidty of Pala and the Palomar mountains and in foot- 
 hill districts, but does not tlirive near the coast. 
 
 The magnolia is a well known tree in California having been 
 introductMl fi-om China and its imnu'use blossoms and robust 
 proportions make it a striking figure in ])i\i'k ami j-esidence 
 grounds, in all parts of the state. Of the seventy species about 
 fourteen are magnolias proper- 
 
 The waterlily family (Xyni])hae;iceae) is represented by eight 
 genera and thirty-five species, all a(|u;dic. The lotus, water lily 
 and bladder plants are well known representatives. 
 
 The Mustnrd family (Ouciferae) embraces many of the well 
 known vegetables, all the calibage gi'(uij), tui'uips, horseradish, 
 sea kale, cress ami radishes. It contains 2000 species, among them 
 flowers like stocks, alyssum and wall flower. 
 
 The Violet family has about two hiuulin'd and fifty s|)ecies 
 distributed over the world, the largei" portion being violets. Some 
 of this family attain the size of shrubs. 
 
 The Pink family (Caryophyllaceae) has fully 1,000 species 
 and thirty-five genera. The ornamental genera are the dianthus, 
 carnations, saporiaria. silene (catchfly) lychnis. Dianthus, 
 
GARDENHELPS 79 
 
 ''Jove's Flower" iiuitil)ers two hundred species and the corn 
 cockles and catch flies are ineliided in the family. 
 
 The Mallow family (^lalvaceae) in its entirety is at home in 
 California. The best known of the seven hundred species are the 
 hibiscus, holly-hoek, nialva, African mallow, abutilons, yossypium 
 and cotton. 
 
 The Linden family is repi'esented l)y the flowering maples 
 and the chestnut, both European and Japanese. Only a few^ of 
 the seven hundred species are represented in California. 
 
 The entire Pulse family (Leguminosae) is especially used in 
 agriculture. In the orchards as cover crops several are used and 
 there is hardly a place in the world that can excel the California 
 display of sweet peas, beans, clover, locust and acacias. The sen- 
 sitive plant is among the representatives of the ];"),()()() species 
 and from the garden pea to the mes(iuit of the desert are all rep- 
 resented in California. 
 
 The Eose family (Rosaceae) is liei'e as elsewhere the very 
 flrst among the families of plants. It embraces the ai)ple, pear, 
 quince, strawberry, dewberry, blackberry, peach, plum, apricot, 
 almond, cherry and mountain ash. All have blossoms in form 
 like the wild rose, Cherokee or Manchuria rose. 
 
 Of Roses more than two hundred and fifty have been named, 
 but three dozen will include those really valuable for ciflture. 
 There are five thousand species of strawberries. The entire Rose 
 family has one thousand species divided among seventy genera. 
 It is the most important group of plants in California. 
 
 The Vitas or Grape family is cfiually important as far as its 
 value to the fruit grower is concerned, as grapes from all countries 
 in the world can be successfully produced here. There is no 
 nobler specimen than the Muscat species which ainiually produces 
 an immense revenue in the form of raisins. The Emperor and 
 Tokay are shipped to European markets. 
 
 The Cactus family has a thousand s|)('cies. The latest and 
 best are the spineless varieties being cultivated for their utility 
 as food for stock and poultry and the improved fruit they bear. 
 Some of the most brilliant, l)ut generally of brief existence are 
 the blossoms of the group, especially the Phylocactus- 
 
 The Carrot (or Umbelliflora) famih' includes in the thirteen 
 hundred species, parsnip, parsley, celery, caraway, anise and dill, 
 all well known in our state. 
 
80 GARDENHELPS 
 
 One-ninth of all the flowering plants belong to the Composite 
 gronp -with ten thousand species, of which the sunfioAver is the 
 type. Lettuce, endive, cardoon, artichoke are all included, but 
 by far the larger number of composites are ornamental plants. 
 
 The Heath (Ericaceae) family includes the cranberry and 
 huckleberry. Among the flowering shrubs of the group are 
 azaleas, rhododendrons, and lilacs a large number of which are 
 found in the mountains of California and I\Iexico. 
 
 The Primula or primrose family have about two hundred 
 and fifty species. Florists divide the group into auriculias, poly- 
 anthus, primroses and cowslips. 
 
 The Olive or Oleaceae family comprises the privet, jasmine, 
 ash and our well known olive so reputable in commerce. There 
 are one hundred and thirty species of jasmine, two of forsythia, 
 half a dozen syringas and twenty-five privets. Of the thirty-five 
 olives, the Mission, ManzaniHo, Ascalan Oblit/a and Servillana 
 are the best varieties for pickling. 
 
 There are some eight hundred species of the Convolvulus or 
 Morning Glory family which includes the valuable sweet potato 
 but the opposite is found in the parasitic dodder which is injurious 
 to the bee plant, wild buckwheat. 
 
 There are thirty species of the Phlox family l)ut the annuals 
 thrive better than the perennials in Calif(nmia. 
 
 The Solonaceae or potato family is an economic one of great 
 importance as it includes the tomato, pepper and egg plant. 
 Among the fifteen hundred species are included the night shade 
 and belladonna. The light blue flowering climlier solanum so 
 frequently seen in yards anci ornamental grounds is one of the 
 most conspicuous. 
 
 There are about two thousand species of the oVIint family 
 composed principally of tlie aromatic herbs, not extensively grown 
 in California. 
 
 The Nettle (or TJtracaceae) family have the most dissimilar 
 grouping of any of the families of plants. To place the fig, mul- 
 berry, bread fruit, elm, hop and osage orange under the same 
 classification seems to any one but the botanist sheer absurdity, 
 yet a close study of some points will disclose a family resem])lance. 
 
 There are about thirty species of the Walnut (Juglandaceae) 
 family. There are several walnuts and eight or ten hickory nuts, 
 natives of the western states. California has a native walnut on 
 which it is liest to graft all other varieties. 
 
GARDENHELPS 81 
 
 The Ciipiiliferae or Oak family luiinbers four hundred species: 
 beeches, birches, hazels, till)erts, alder, hornlieam and iron wood 
 are classed in the cupuliferae ^jfroup. Our California Live Oak 
 is one of the noblest specimens of the group. 
 
 Orchidaceae or Orchid family numbers five thousand species, 
 most of them uncommon and rare, many of them are epiphytic, or 
 grow above ground on other plants. They grow chiefly in warm 
 bogs and deep shaded woods of the tropics. Our Lady fSlipper is 
 related to the family. 
 
 The Iris (Iridaceae) family is at home in California, and 
 comprises many showy garden flowei's well known as iris, glad- 
 iolus, ixias, tigridias and crocus, seven hundred species in all. 
 
 The Amaryllis family comprises many lily like plants pro- 
 ducing rich i^rofusion of l)loom. Th(\v include the crinums, 
 Guernsey lily, narcissus and others, some seven hundred species, 
 divided into sixty-four genera. 
 
 There are more than two thousand species of the Lily family. 
 Tulips and hyacinths are included in this group, also some tree- 
 like specimens as aloes, yuccas and other ornamental plants. The 
 garden onion and also the sea onion are relatives of the family. 
 
 There are eleven hundred Palms, some of which produce 
 edible fruit like the date and cocoanut. They are divided into 
 one hundred and thirty genera. 
 
 The Pine, coniferae or cone bearing family include plants 
 and trees of very dissimilar form. ^lost of the family have needle 
 like leaves sometimes deciduous and the ginkgo has broad fiat 
 leaves. There are three hundred species in the family. There are 
 about seventy true pines, thirty of which are native to the Ignited 
 States. In California the ^Monterey pine and spruce, the pinus 
 halpensis, Torreyana, Canaresensis are among the best known. 
 ]\Iany spruces, larches and arbor vitaes are objects of beauty in 
 our ornamental grounds. The Araucarias, Cryptomerias, Lawson 
 and Italian cypress and the graceful Cedrus Deodora the most 
 useful and best known. 
 
 The ' classification of plants has been the patient work of 
 botanists and scientists for a century past and the new era of 
 development W'ill add many valuable additions to the multitude 
 now known and classified. 
 
82 GARDENHELPS 
 
 POLLENIZATION AND HYBRIDIZING. 
 
 The process of plant creation is similar to all other pro-creative 
 processes, the male and female organisms being requisite in union 
 to produce the life of the plant. The majority of plants and trees 
 have the staminate and pistillate organisms on the same plant and 
 produce different blooms that by the pollen (seed dust) of one 
 flower entering the ovaries of another flower, the life process is 
 begun. The walnut is well known instance of this, the catkins or 
 male flowers blooming and hanging above the female bloom. If 
 both are in condition at the time, if no violent winds or storms 
 l)low or wash away the pollen, it falls into the ovaries of the pistil- 
 late bloom and the tree produces a crop of walnuts. The hop and 
 the date are instances of the opposite form, where the trees or 
 vines are male and female, but individually separate. The pollen 
 from the male tree must be carried by insects, by winds or by the 
 artificial process of hand pollenization from the male to the fe- 
 male, or no perfect fruit will he developed. In the case of the hop, 
 about one male plant is set among a hundred of the female and 
 wind and insects convey the pollen that produces the future crop. 
 
 It will be seen at a glance how important the process is to the 
 gardener and farmer, and how often blame is attached to seed, 
 plant or seedsman, when the truth is that conditions have not been 
 favorable to perfect pollenization. Tomatoes grown in the winter 
 when the temperature is below 70 seldom produce fruit, and in 
 the early spring the same difficulty occurs. They bloom profusely 
 and wonder is expressed that they do not show signs of fruiting 
 but instead the blossoms fall off unfertilized. We do not use the 
 term "fertilized" with reference to application of manures and 
 compound fertilizers used as food for the growing plant, but refer 
 to the action of the pollen as the life seed introduced from the 
 staminate to the pistilate organism of the plant, which producer.' 
 future life, variation, perfection or non-perfection as the case 
 may be. 
 
 In greenhouses and places where the agency of bees or other 
 insects, or light winds cannot come, it is often necessary to assist 
 nature in her work by "hand pollenization", or by taking some 
 of the pollen grains from the male plant and with a camel's hair 
 pencil introducing the pollen into the flowers of the pistillate, 
 which can be distinguished by their having no stamen and anthers. 
 The pistilate form, if cut open, would be found to contain minute 
 
GARDENHELPS 83 
 
 seeds ■waiting the coming of the pollen grains to give them the 
 vivifying touch of the power to change into perfect life, which is 
 withheld without the union of the two. 
 
 The re(iuisites for perfect pollenization are the proper degree 
 of heat, the blooming of the sexual Howers at nearly the same time 
 so insects can carry the pollen from one tiower to another when 
 the pollen dust will remain in the viscid, warm cup of the ovaries 
 that receives it. The process is wonderful and by it the multi- 
 tude of varieties in plant life are constantly being produced in 
 form, taste and color that are astonishing and alike miraculous, 
 to those who do not investigate the reasons for the changes in 
 form and hue of the tiower and the texture and flavor of the fruit. 
 
 The Divine plan of polleni>cation being a systematic one. it 
 opens wide the door of discovery, investigation and development 
 of myriads of diversified forms that in their change, which seem 
 mysterious, add new creations to please both the eye and the ap- 
 petite of man. Pollenization is a means placed in the hands of 
 the careful opc^rator to add multitudes of blessings to the world. 
 Patient minds like that of Luther Burbank and others have by 
 the use of pollenization succeeded by this, and selection, in pro- 
 ducing hybrid forms of fruit, vegetables and flowers that con- 
 stantly add to the use and pleasure of mankind. 
 
 The development of plant life to higher and better orders or 
 forms of the same species is every where present, and on every 
 hand can be seen creations that have been developed from some 
 Avild and untutored species into the broadest usefulness. With 
 the eye of prophetic promise, Mr. Burbank looking into the future 
 has grandly said: "A day will come when man will offer his 
 brother man not bullets nor bayonets, but richer grains, better 
 fruits and fairer flowers." 
 
 The work of the botanist of a few years ago was to select and 
 classify the mummies of plants, a work both needed and bene- 
 ficial. But the work of today is to step into a broader arena than 
 the mausoleum of plants. It was supposed that they had no des- 
 tiny beyond the fixed classification given them, that heaven and 
 earth would pass away but not one jot or tittle of the stilted classi- 
 fication could be changed. But we have learned that the entire 
 range of growing beauty from the humblest violet to the majestic 
 sequoia, are as clay in the potter's hand to shape into forms of 
 either usefulness or dishonor, as he may see fit. The changes 
 
84 GARDENHELPS 
 
 that can be made in the most phistic forms are simply marvehms. 
 We have not space here save to hint at some of the ways nature 
 has the mirror held up to her face before and after her transfor- 
 mations from the insignificant and dingy to the magnificent and 
 gorgeous in color, form and utility. That the time has come when 
 every body can be a Burbank is not quite evident. Few people 
 have the untiring patience to grow thousands upon thousands of 
 plants just to get one that is suited to the purpose, or to under- 
 stand just what they want, or know when they have secured the 
 right element in the plant to set it out as a new creation. But the 
 light is dawning, the apostles of new creations are multiplying 
 and under difficulties are blazing the way for future horticulturists 
 to follow the same trail, or blaze out one of their own that shall 
 lead to ultimate triumj)h in the realization of the fact that they 
 have perfected, changed, hybridized some new plant that placed 
 beside its former relations does not seem like one of the family. 
 
 The tlieory and practice of stock breeding, improvement and 
 selection for certain types are well established and bj- crossing 
 different breeds the qualities of one are combined with those- of 
 the other and a new "type" is obtained. The "beef type" and 
 the "dairy type" are now well known to people who a generation 
 ago only knew the quality of a Texas steer by the length of his 
 horns. 
 
 In early times the process of "selection" only was used, and it 
 took hundreds of years to search out the king plant ; by the system 
 of the "survival of the fittest". Now by crossing species of plants 
 of the same order, changes in hue, form, texture, growth and com- 
 mercial value are obtained. It is the wisdom of the ages concen- 
 trated in the epoch of the new era of plant development. 
 
 In the method of cross-pollenization, two or more seed par- 
 ents are prepared by first cutting off a large proportion, leaving 
 not more than an eighth or tenth of the buds on the plant, so the 
 whole force will be concentrated in the buds to be operated on. 
 When they show signs of coming to bloom the emasculation is 
 performed. With a sharp pen-knife the anthers, stamen and 
 corolla are removed from the bloom left on the plant and the 
 ])right corolla being gone it is no more attractive to the bee that 
 would bring the pollen haphazard from some objectional)le flower. 
 Or the emasculated buds are covered with gauze or thin paper 
 sacks so no intruder can approach the floral altar with strange 
 
GARDENHELPS 85 
 
 fire. From the nnthers of a flower of a better plant the p )]len has 
 been gathered and the fine p:;l]en grains caught in a glass recept- 
 acle and then carefully dusted over the emasculated buds and the 
 work of intelligent pollenization has l)een begun. Sometimes it 
 is necessary that a camel's hair pencil shall be used to introduce 
 the grains into the receptacle of the unpoUenized flower. If the 
 work is carefully tione fructification immediately begins and the 
 flower gives birth to a new seed, which in turn must be planted 
 and the result is only known after one, two or three seasons wait- 
 ing in patient expectation, sometimes only to be disappointed. 
 The new seed may hark Inick to some of the indiscretional hal)its 
 of its great grand-parents and the change may have to be gone 
 over again : sometimes as high as 10,000 changes are made ])efore 
 the right combiimtion is obtained; as many as this were manipu- 
 lated by .Air. Burbank l)efi)re his famous potato was secured. 
 
 It often occurs that "freaks" are developed and there seems 
 at first to be no assignal)le reason. But the theory of accidental 
 pollenizalion accounts for it. By some means a bee or other in- 
 sect got some special pollen grains on its wings or ])ody and at 
 the right time flew to another blossom and de})i)sited its precious 
 grain that gave new form to the flower, or fruit, that so surprised 
 you with its superior cpialities. 
 
 Gathering and planting the new seeds, Avatching the seedlings 
 as they develop, and selecting the one needed to cross again, and 
 again, is the work of hybridizing. It is painstaking, patient, anx- 
 ious lalior. l)ut amply repays all the expense of time and skill. 
 These hints are given that possil)ly some one who reads these lines 
 may be induced to make experiments along lines of least resistance 
 and finally produce something worthy of liis day. 
 
 "Some mute inglorious ]\Iilton here may rest. 
 
 Some Cromwell guiltless of his countries blood." 
 
 If you cannot originate, you can secure some of the new crea- 
 tions, bud your trees to them and thus directly secure the benefits 
 of the improvements in such fruits as the plumquot. Bartlett pears, 
 fadeless flowers and yellow lilies, and many other worthy pro- 
 ductions that ymi can grow while in your own way experimenting 
 to produce new forms your ideas may suggest. 
 
 Accidents sometinu\s happen to trees. We see them loaded 
 with bloom and the promise of the crop is magnificent, but we are 
 disappointed; nearly all the fruit drops. AVe think back and re- 
 
86 GARDENHELPS 
 
 member alioiit the time the tree was showing its bank of showy 
 blossoms, a blistering storm of wind and rain came and the pollen 
 was destroyed ; in some places the frosts prevent proper polleniza- 
 tion, and so nature has to withstand her rebuffs just as we mortals 
 do, but she smiles and says the burden is lighter this year, so I 
 can do better next. 
 
 MULTIPLICATION BY CUTTINGS. 
 
 The following list is intended to show at a glance what plants 
 and trees are multiplied by cuttings. 
 
 Figs — Either soft or mature wood, cut slips eight or ten 
 inches long, plant so one bud will be out of the ground. 
 
 Mulberries — Cuttings of mature wood, plant in February. 
 
 Olive — Cuttings of mature, even old pieces of stumps, large 
 chips with bark on planted so the shoots can push through. 
 
 Pomegranate — Cuttings or by laying down a limb covering 
 with earth, and cutting from parent tree when rooted. Seeds 
 bring thrifty plants. 
 
 Quince — Cuttings which are sometimes grafted. 
 
 Grapes — Cuttings of three buds long, one left above the 
 ground. 
 
 Tomatoes — Cuttings T shaped, horizontal part in the soil. 
 
 Currants — Both currants and gooseberries are made from 
 hardened wood planted in moist soil. 
 
 Blackberry — Root cuttings and suckers from the roots. 
 
 Raspl)erry — Root cutting and tips from end of runners that 
 have rooted. 
 
 Loganberries — Root cuttings and cuttings of the vine and 
 tips that have rooted at the end. 
 
 Dewberries — Root cuttings and layers that have rooted. 
 
 Strawberries — From runners, tip cuttings and divisions of 
 plant. 
 
 Cranberries— Layers and divisions- 
 Begonias — From leaves. 
 
 Verbenas — From layings cut from the parent plant. 
 
 Sweet potato — Pieces of vines, both ends inserted in the soil 
 to form an arch above ground. 
 
The important fact very often lost sight of in intensively cul- 
 tivating the soil is that as fast as plant food is exhausted from 
 the soil it must be renewed, by means of applications of fertilizers, 
 either organic or inorganic. Barnyard manure and debris of any 
 character that will impart food to the soil are organic. If mineral 
 or inorganic sul)stances are used, they must be reduced liy acids, 
 a process called acidulation. This reduces the solid chemical 
 matter to li(tuitl form, the only form in whicli a plant can absorb 
 or take up any fertilizer. If unacidulated hard substances are 
 put into the soil, they must wait to be dissolved by the chemical 
 action of the carbonic acid that comes in the rains or in irrigation 
 water and often will wait for months and years before the plant 
 can be benefited by them. Liming the soil is very important in 
 soils that do not carry lime, as it is a solvent for many of the sub- 
 stances already in the soil or those y<ui add mechanically and while 
 not a direct plant food is a material that cannot be dispensed with, 
 especially in sandy soils. And in stiff clay soil it is essential for 
 its mechanical effect, in breaking up the clay so it can be more 
 easily worked, and made more receptive to air and water. 
 
 ANALYSIS OF FERTILIZERS. 
 
 Sources of nitrogen and the per cent they contain showing 
 the best material to procure to replenish the waste taken out by 
 plants; Ammoniate 3.48, castor bean pomace 1.91. cotton seed meal 
 1.91, fish 8.25, dried blood 1.98, waste of horse hoof 1.83, lobster 
 shell 3.52. 
 
 Substances furnisliing Phosphoric Acid: 
 
 Apatite contains, per cent 36.08; bone lilack, 35.89; l)()ne 
 meal, nitrogen. 4.12; phosphoric acid, 8.28 to 23.50; Carribean 
 guano. 18.90; Cuban guano, 13.35; Mona Island. 21.88; Nassau 
 phosphate, 34.37; Peruvian guano, 1G.26; S. Carolina rock, 28.93; 
 Carolina rock dissolved, 15.20. 
 
 Potassie sources: Carmallite, 13.68; cottonseed. 23.80 potash 
 and 8.50 phos. acid; Kanit. 13.54; knigite. 8.42; muriate of potash, 
 52.46; nitrate of potash. 45.19 and nitr;igen. 13.09; spent tan bark 
 ashes, 2.04 and 1.61 phos. acid; sybarite, 16.65; wood ashes, 5.50, 
 
88 GARDENHELPS 
 
 and phos. acid, 1.85; leached wood ashes, 1.10 and phos. acid 1.41. 
 
 Nitrogenous fertilizing substances: 
 
 Ammoniate ll.;^8 and p. a. 3.48; Castor pomace, 5.56 and 
 I)Otash, 1.18 and p. a., 1.10; cotton seed meal, 6.66; dried blood, 
 10.52; lish, 6.81 and p. a., 8.28; horse hoof, 18.25; lobster shell, 
 4.50 and p. a., 8.52; meat scrap, 10.44; water sprats, 4.04; nitrate 
 of soda, 15.75; sulphate of ammonia. 20.50; tankage, 6.82, and p. a. 
 11.25; tobacco stems, 2.29 and potash, 6.44; wool waste, 5.64; 
 corn cob ashes, potash, 28.30. 
 
 Nitrogen is very essential in all organized life whether animal 
 or vegetable. It is the basis of albumenoids in plants, the casein 
 in milk, the fil)rin in blood. The various forms of nitrogen mean 
 lis combination with other chemical elements: nitrogen as nitrates, 
 introgen as ammonia and nitrogen as in organic matter — decay- 
 ing substances. Nitrogen as nitrate is nitrogen combined with 
 oxygen in such proportion as to form nitric acid. United with 
 some other base as for instance soda or potash, it is nitrate of 
 soda or nitrate of potash, lime and whatever the base may be. 
 Nitrogen as ammonia means its combination with hydrogen in a 
 l)roportion to form ammonia, one part nitrogen and three parts 
 hydrogen ; this gas readily unites with different acids and forms 
 sulphuric and nitric acids again forming ammonia salts. Animal 
 and vegetable matter contain chemical constituents, carbon, 
 hydrogen and oxygen. A large number of materials differing 
 widely in their characteristics contain nitrogen in some form. 
 Plants deriving their nitrogen from the soil receive it in .the form 
 of nitrates that have been reduced so the plant can assimilate it. 
 Nitrogen in organic matter is first changed by decay into ammonia 
 and from ammonia into nitrates. It is often the case that the best 
 forms of plant food are found in material that is not so costly nor 
 so long in becoming available as in slowly decomposing forms as 
 rock, hair and substances that stand chemical attack a long time. 
 Nitrate of soda is 'the best form, for when pure it contains a 
 larger per cent of nitrogen and is so chemically constituted that 
 it immediately dissolves in moisture and the plant takes it up 
 directly. Nitrate of potash or saltpetre furnishes potash in addi- 
 tion to nitrogen. Dried meat or azotine is meat dried and ground 
 without the bone and is an excellent source of nitrogen. Tankage 
 is the dried refuse of slaughter houses and is usually classed as 
 a nitrogenous substance, though it contains a fair per cent of 
 
GARDENHELPS 89 
 
 potash. The waste from fish canneries is a good source of nitro- 
 gen. "Menhaden pomace" made fr'jm fish refuse is a source and 
 all fish refuse is advantageously secured in regions near the sea 
 where the maxim of Franklin can he practically used: "A herring 
 in every hill of corn." Leather meal, horn and hoof meal, cotton 
 seed meal are all products obtained l)y steaming or grinding the 
 substances mentioned and are among the variable sources of 
 nitrogen. 
 
 Nitrogen must be carefully used because when soluble in 
 water it is easily movable in the soil and by rains can be washed 
 beyond the reach of the plant and lost while the other elements 
 phosphoric acid and potash, become fixed in the soil and remain 
 sometimes in an unused state for a long time and of no service to 
 the plant till acted on by lime or some solvent as the agent for 
 converting it into a form the plant can take up. So nitrates are 
 not applied in large quantities in the fall to lie in the ground all 
 winter as is the (uise with barnyard manure. IMaterials that con- 
 tain nitrogen in organic matter must wait in the soil. 
 
 AVAILABILITY OF FERTILIZERS. 
 
 In cold countries, where the ground is inactive a portion of 
 the year through frost, applications of manures may be added 
 prior to the closed season and will l)e in the soil to become active 
 with the return of w^arm days. It is unwise to apply nitrogen 
 when rains are abundant, because it is easily leached out and lost 
 but 'Organic forms that must stay in the soil a long time in order 
 to become available by being sufficiently rotted may be put in at 
 any time. ^Materials like blood, fine ground bone and fish will 
 decay in one season and be taken up by the plant, but horn, hoof, 
 hair, leather, w^ool, etc., will require several seasons to complete 
 their decaj" and become availalile to the plant. So of course rot- 
 ting slowly only a small per cent of their content is given off at a 
 favorable tinu^ and they must be applied in larger quantities. 
 
 Phosphates. 
 
 Phosphoric acid derived from phosphates means that the phos- 
 phoric acid is united with some other material like lime, iron, 
 alumina and form phosphates of lime, phosphate of iron, etc. Lime 
 being the best form is more generally used as basic slag, which is 
 a combination of lime with the phosphoric acid from iron in the 
 making of steel, is united by fusing with fire and collects the 
 
90 GARDENHELPS 
 
 phosphoric acid from the iron and makes a valuable powder that 
 is readily taken up in the soil and by the plant. Mineral sub- 
 stances as a rule do not yield up their phosphoric acid so it will 
 become soluble in water, a condition that must obtain with all 
 material intended as plant food. Bones of animals are a fertile 
 source of phosphoric acid. Bones from the same animal diflfer 
 in composition according to the age of the animal and the location 
 in the carcass. Young bones are less rich in phosphates and richer 
 in nitrogen and in older animals the order is exactly reversed. If 
 bone is treated with diluted hydrochloric acid and the phosphates 
 of lime dissolve, they leave a soft pulpy matter in its original 
 shape but with the lime extracted. A similar condition obtains 
 when the grain falls in the field, for lack of lime to sustain the 
 weight of the head on the stem. If you burn bones, the heat drives 
 off the organic matter and leaves the lime in dense and compact 
 form, so it happens that the manner in which bones have been re- 
 duced or their phosphates secured is governed largely by the 
 method of reduction. Raw bone free from meat or fat should 
 contain on an average of twenty-two per cent of phosphoric acid 
 and four per cent of nitrogen, but its usefulness largely depends 
 on the fineness to which it is reduced by grinding; the finer it is 
 ground the cjuicker it will decay. Steamed l)one contains more 
 phosphoric acid and less nitrogen than raw bone. It can be re- 
 duced finer by pressure and mechanical manipulation than by 
 grinding and is therefore directl}' more useful than the ground 
 bone which if not fine must lay in the soil till sufficiently disin- 
 tegrated to be taken up by the plant. It has been shown that in 
 two seasons steamed bone will be taken up while ground bone 
 sometimes takes as long as four seasons to be absorbed. Bone is 
 the only substance containing phosphoric acid that is used directly 
 or without the intervention of other chemicals to secure its phos- 
 phoric acid. Bone black or animal charcoal is a source of phos- 
 phoric acid and its first and chief purpose is to clarify sugar and 
 then the material is used as chemical source of phosphoric acid. 
 Only the best bones are used for this purpose, hence it contains 
 the highest per cent of phosphoric acid. When received from the 
 refineries it contains added vegetable matter but is charged with 
 from thirty to thirty-two per cent of phosphoric acid. Bone ash 
 comes from the south where bones are collected and burned and 
 the ashes thus reduced are more easily transported. Good 
 
GARDENHELPS 91 
 
 samples contain from twenty-five to thirty per cent. The phos- 
 phates derived from bones are considered more nseful than the 
 mineral substances from which phosphoric acid is obtained, as they 
 are derived directly from organic materials. 
 
 Mineral Phosphates. 
 We have thus far spoken of phosphates derived from animal 
 substances, but there is another class equally valuable, not com- 
 bined with organic matter and generall}^ more compact in struc- 
 ture. South Carolina rock or rock and river phosphates which 
 do not ditfer materially though obtained from two sources, the 
 land and the river, both contain about twenty-five per cent of 
 phosphoric acid and a small per cent of other minerals. These 
 phosphates when finely ground are called tioats, are applied di- 
 rectly to the land needing phosphates and will dissolve in the 
 soil after some time. Florida phosphates occur in differing forms : 
 clay, pebble and rock taken from river beds. The soft or clay 
 deposit yields aliout thirty per cent while the pebble when washed 
 and crushed contains as high as forty per cent and the clean bould- 
 er phosphates yield forty per cent and a better quality than the 
 (^'arolina rock. Canada apatite is crystalized rock. It is expensive 
 to mine but yields forty per cent of the mineral phosphate. Iron 
 phosphate is the waste product from the manufacture of steel by 
 the basic process, hence is called "basic slag", odorless phosphate 
 and Thompson's phosphate meal. It is produced in large quan- 
 tities in Europe and the "odorless" is an American product. It 
 contains from fifteen to twenty per cent phosphate of lime, as 
 lime is added in the process to concentrate the phosphoric acid 
 when the iron is in process of melting; combined with bone meal 
 it is particularly good for sandy soils. Guano has been used as a 
 source of phosphoric acid, but later it has been better applied for 
 its content of nitrogen, and Peruvian guano is now used for that 
 purpose. These are all called "raw material" and if used without 
 treatment by acidulation would remain a long time in the soil be- 
 fore thej^ would be available plant food. All material to be useful 
 must be by some means reduced to a liquid form in order that 
 the plant ma.y be fed by it. 
 
 Superphosphates . 
 
 The raw materials we have mentioned exist in combination 
 Avith lime and are divided into three classes, differing in their 
 
92 GARDENHELPS 
 
 proportions of lime and called by the name the proportion indi- 
 cates. "Tri-calic" "tri-basic", or three parts lime and one phos- 
 phoric acid, is insoluble in water; the two part lime and one phos. 
 acid is called "diabasic", is insoluble in water but can be taken up 
 by the roots of the plant when moistened by the soil; the "mono- 
 basic", or one lime and one phos. acid is completely soluble in 
 water. The fourth form "tetrabasic" crumbles readily though 
 not soluble in water and is soon availaljle. These combinations 
 are called "superphosphates" and are formed by treating the raw 
 material with sulphuric acid which will change the insoluble to 
 soluble forms. The sulphuric acid removes the excess of lime from 
 the phosphate and forms sulphate of lime which leaves the ma- 
 terial a "monocalic" or one lime superphosphate. A superphos- 
 phate is a union of a soluble phosphate with a phosphate of lime 
 or what is commonly called gypsum or "land plaster". A phos- 
 phate means any material containing a large quantitj^ of phos- 
 phoric acid and by the process of acidulation already mentioned is 
 changed to a superphosphate or a phosphate in a form the plant 
 can absorb. In buying fertilizer be sure you make the distinction 
 between phosphate and superphosphate. You might pay a high 
 price for a fertilizer whose analysis showed a large amount of 
 phosphoric acid, but it would have to lie in the soil a long time 
 before the acid in the rains could change it to a form the plant 
 could take up. But the superphosphate is immediately available 
 because it has been divested of the excess of lime and made soluble 
 in water. 
 
 Superphosphates difiPer in their content of the required phos- 
 phoric acid, depending largely upon the raw material they are 
 made from. Those from organic materials like bone black and 
 bone ash are richer in the phos. acid than from ground bones or 
 mineral substances. If too much sulphuric acid is used in dis- 
 solving bones they become gummy and the dry soluble p nvder 
 you w^anted to procure is destroyed. The superphosphate from 
 bone black is practically all soluble while those from mineral 
 substances contain quite a p?r cent of nitrogen. When this is the 
 case they are termed ammoniated superphosphates. Solu])le phos- 
 phoric acid is valuable again on account of its ease of distribution 
 through the soil, it being taken up by the water and distril)uted 
 to the plant. The reverted is rich in content of the required food 
 ))ut the plant must go to it or go without, as the reverted remains 
 
GARDEN HELPS 93 
 
 jr.st where it was placed in the soil. In the first instance the food 
 goes to the roots, in the second the roots must iio to the food or u'o 
 without and when it finds the food it must by the minute particles 
 of moisture it can impose dissolve the meal. Thus superphosphates 
 are more desiralde where immediate results are desired. If the 
 reverted or insoluble phosphate is allowed to remain in the soil 
 during rains and inactivity of the soil, it has the quality of l)eing 
 retained rather than lieing washed or leached away, though this 
 does not occiu- as disastrously as mhIIi nitrogen which is a silt 
 washed beyond the reach of the plant. Phosphates become "fixed" 
 in the soil liy combining with minerals already there. It is less 
 useful in soils very sandy and not containing iron or lime. The 
 value of "fixation" is that the soil is furnished with a gradually 
 diminishing source of plant food and fertility; that is. it is not all 
 given up at once but a supply is left to draw upan gradually. 
 
 Potash Manures. 
 In the early history of agriculture the supply of potash was 
 chiefly derived from wood ashes either leached or dry to replenish 
 the sum removed by plants and trees. Ashes were used because 
 they "helped to make them grow." The reason was not always 
 sought. At the present day, potash salts are mined principally in 
 Strassfurt. Germany. The crude products shipped here are kanit 
 and sylvanit and the nmnufactured articles are muriate of potash 
 and sulphate of potash with magnesia. Potash combined with 
 chlorine forms chloride of potassium or as it is commonly called 
 "muriate of potash" and is a more desirable form than when com- 
 bined with sulphuric acid which forms "sulphate of potash." 
 Kanit is the crude product and contains only about 12 per cent 
 potash. Combined with common salt, chloride of sodium, mag- 
 nesium chloride and sulphate of magnesium and sulphate of po- 
 tassium, its efit'ect on soil and plant is quite similar to muriate of 
 potash because of the large quantities of chlorides it contains. 
 Sylvanit is also a crude salt and while it shows sixteen per cent 
 potash, it is not used as much as the other. Both kanit and sylva- 
 nit are rather more classed as indirect manures on account of the 
 solvent effect they have on other sul)stances, particularly phos- 
 phates. Potash should be put in the soil a consideralile time prior 
 to the need of the crop, that is, its application should be a sufficient 
 time liefore planting any crop so it may be well incorporated with 
 the soil. Then it will not l)e in heavy proportion in any part of 
 
94 GARDENHELPS 
 
 the soil. An excess of magnesia is often more than beneficial to 
 tender roots of plants, the same applies also to the chlorides. In 
 countries where the heavy rains are not apt to wash it out of the 
 soil, it is best to apply it at least six months ahead of the planting 
 of the crop it is intended to benefit. Muriate of potash is the 
 richest of Strassfurt products and contains about fifty per cent of 
 actual potash or potassium oxide. Sulphate of potash is called 
 the "high grade" and for crops like potatoes, beets and fruits is 
 preferred to the muriate principally for its direct influence in 
 producing a superior quantity of fruit. As it is placed on the 
 market, it contains about the same per cent of potash as the 
 muriate. 
 
 "Double manure salts" contain in addition to sulphate of pot- 
 ash, thirty per cent sulphate of magnesia. Magnesia is particular- 
 ly useful on potatoes, but the double sulphate is more expensive. 
 All these salts mentioned dififer in character and appearance, the 
 sulphates being in form of white or grey powder, while the muri- 
 ates are in form of grey or light brown crystals. All of them as 
 they stand have a tendency to solidify, but with the exception of 
 kanit they are easily pulverized. Crops most benefited by the ap- 
 plication of potash salts are potatoes, grasses, and small and orch- 
 ard fruits. 
 
 To use manures successfully, one has to understand the nature 
 of the ingredients. With nearly all nitrogenous manures it is 
 wise not to apply them in any considerable amount before the 
 crop is growing because the nitrogen is immediately available. 
 Nitrogen in the form of ammonia, though completely soluble in 
 water, is absorbed by the soil and requires some time to change it 
 into a nitrate, the form in which the plant can take it. As we have 
 shown, there is a wide range in the substances containing nitrogen 
 and the length of time required for them to become available, as 
 for instance the dii¥erence between blood and hair or leather, the 
 latter needing a long time to reduce them to a condition of avail- 
 ability. In the case of the phosphate manures, they, when reduced 
 by acid to a soluble form are immediately available and must not 
 be applied a long time before the plant requires them. Ground 
 bone and course rock decay slowly and all such substances must be 
 applied in the soil a long time before the plant can possibly re- 
 ceive any benefit from them. While potash from the Strassfurt 
 mine is soluble in water, it should be applied some time before the 
 
GARDENHELPS 95 
 
 actual need of the plant to secure complete distril)u1i()n througli 
 the soil. 
 
 Crops growing on what is commonly called "poor soil" are 
 as a rule greatly benefited by the application of nitrogen, while 
 rich soils are more productive by application of phosphates and 
 potash. Phosphates are best for heavy soils and nitrogen for light 
 dry soils. Sandy soil is generally benefited by potash, in which 
 it is usually deficient, while clay soil is generally supplied with 
 sufficient quantities of potash. 
 
 The method of growth of crops is an important factor in de- 
 termining how manures should be applied. Crops, like the beet, 
 carrot, parsnip and most root crops can go deep for their susten- 
 ance, while shallow rooted plants like the strawberry, tomato and 
 kindred plants are shallow feeders, so if the fertilizer were put 
 in the soil deep down the shallow growing plants would find it 
 beyond their reach. 
 
 THE UNIT SYSTEM IN FERTILIZERS. 
 
 The wholesale fertilizer trade now uses the unit system in sell- 
 ing their goods; that is the unit is one per cent or twenty pounds 
 per ton. For example : A manufacturer offers dissolved bone l)lack 
 guaranteed to contain sixteen units of available phosphoric acid 
 at 70 cents a unit (16 x ,$0.70=$11.2() per ton). 
 
 A quotation of .$1.50 per unit available phosphoric acid means 
 $1.50 for each twenty pounds contained in the material quoted. 
 
 COMMERCIAL VALUATIONS. 
 
 "Food for Plants" gives the following illustration for com- 
 puting fertilizer values. Example : Nitrate of soda is guaranteed 
 to be 95 per cent pure ; that is the total impurities in it amount 
 to five per cent: .95 x 16.47 equals 15.64 per cent of nitrogen: 
 15.64 X 15 cents— trade value for nitrogen — equals $2.34 value in 
 one hundred pounds. $2.34 x 20 equals $46.80 the value of a ton. 
 
 Fertilizers are sold as "high grade", "medium high", "med- 
 ium grade", "low grade". In high grade, you get 19.60 pounds 
 of plant food in a hundred pounds ; in low grade you get 12 p(mnds 
 of plant food to the hundred. The percentage of phosphoric acid 
 does not vary greatly in the different classes of fertilizer. The per- 
 
96 GARDENHELPS 
 
 eentage of potash and nitrogen increases in higher grades. Hence 
 the total amount of plant food in a hundred pounds increases in 
 the higher grades with the increase of nitrogen and potash. 
 
 The cost of one pound of plant food, whether nitrogen, phos- 
 phoric acid or potash, is greatest in the low grade goods. The 
 least amount paid for one pound of nitrogen in low grade goods 
 is tw^enty cents, in high grade thirteen and one-third cents. Similar 
 relations hold good in respect to the other grades of plant food. 
 In general the higher the cost of the goods the lower the cost of 
 each pound of plant food. It is unwise to buy "cheap" fertilizers. 
 
 VALUE OF FARM MANURES. 
 
 From careful experiments made by the University Experi- 
 mental Station, the value of manure from cows per ton in nitrogen 
 was found to be 51 per cent; in phosphoric acid, 35 per cent; in 
 potash. 51 per cent ; total value $2.27. 
 
 From horses alone the manurial value of a ton is $2.79. Ten 
 horses in eleven days produced manure to the value of $4.71, or 
 for each horse per day. 42 cents. 
 
 Sheep produce one and one-half cents w^orth per day, wnth a 
 low^ percentage of phosphoric acid but rich in other elements. The 
 summary per ton in value of manurial constituents is : Horse, 
 $2.79; cow. $2.27; sheep, $4.19; swine, $3.18. This of course 
 does not include the mechanical value imparted to the soil and 
 here is where the farm mamires have the advantage over the chem- 
 ical fertilizers in relation to the physical changes made by each. 
 
 WHAT THE PLANT TAKES FROM THE SOIL. 
 
 When we know what the plant removes from the soil in its life 
 course, from seed to maturity, we know wiiat to replace in order 
 to keep the fertility of the land we are cropping up to standard 
 so it wnll not disappoint us in returning its tribute to our expecta- 
 tion and toil. There are, as we have previously shown, three prin- 
 cipal ingredients or constituents of the soil that are absolutely 
 needed in order that the crop we plant may do its best. If any 
 one of the trio is lacking, the soil will only be as strong for its 
 work as the least element contained in the soil is in evidence. It 
 is the old illustration of the chain being no stronger than the 
 weakest link. If there is a superabundance of nitrogen and a 
 
GARDENHELPS 97 
 
 lack of phospliorie acid or potasli, the plant will express its life in 
 going to tops and leaf, with but little fruitage. If the phosphoric 
 acid is fairly in evidence with a lack of nitrogen, the plant will 
 make a desperate attempt to produce untimely fruit, and leaves 
 will be conspicuous liy their absence. If potash is needed (which 
 is hardly ever the case in California, we are so near nature's store- 
 house where she has but recently ground it down), the fruit will 
 be inferior in quality and never attempt perfection. There are a 
 host of side elements such as phosphorus, lime, magnesia and many 
 others that have their place and bear about the same relation to 
 the necessity of the crop as condiments, pepper and salt, do to 
 the meal of the gardener. Lime, however, as before set forth is 
 very essential and will in almost every instance in California soils 
 (except the calcareous) assist the crop to find hidden in the soil, 
 if already there, the desired morsel it is searching for. 
 
 It must be rememl)ered the plant cannot change restaurants. 
 It is dependent solely on what you bring to its needs after it has 
 exhausted the supply nature placed there for it to begin its career. 
 If, after repeated croppings, the platter should grow lean and 
 the cupboard bare, some one must supply the lack. As before 
 stated, there may be a partial supply, all bone and no bread, or all 
 bread and no bone, (plants dearly love acidulated bone), and to 
 know what you need you must know w^hat has been eaten up, 
 and what must be supplied in order to make the meal a satisfying 
 one. To assist you in determining what has been taken out of 
 the soil by a crop you have raised we give the following table 
 made from numerous experiments and tests from various State 
 and Government Experimental stations: 
 
98 GARDENHELPS 
 
 Pounds per Acre Phosplniric 
 
 Name of Plant Nitrogen acid Potash 
 
 Cabbage 218 514 125 
 
 Cauliflower 202 265 76 
 
 Tnrnips 187 426 74 
 
 Carrots 166 190 65 
 
 Corn 146 174 69 
 
 Green Fodder 122 230 66 
 
 Cucumbers 142 193 94 
 
 Lettuce 41 72 17 
 
 Onions 96 . 96 49 
 
 Peas 153 69 39 
 
 Potatoes 11!^» 192 55 
 
 Sweet Corn 518 107 37 
 
 Sorghum 446 561 90 
 
 Sugar Beet 95 200 44 
 
 Tobacco 127 148 33 
 
 Tomato 185 136 72 
 
 Wheat Ill 58 45 
 
 Oats S9 96 35 
 
 Rye • 87 76 44 
 
 Rape 154 124 79 
 
 Sojo Beans 207 87 62 
 
 Vetch 149 113 35 
 
 Cow Peas 171 169 64 
 
 Barley 78 62 35 
 
 Buckwheat 62 17 40 
 
 WHAT THE PLANT WANTS. 
 
 It is not only necessary to kuow what amount of nutrients the 
 plant in its growth has taken out of the soil, but it is essential to 
 know the proportion to again place in position so it can be well 
 fed. The early growth of crops is needed as the early price is 
 the best. We give in proportionate figures the requirements of 
 different plants, and whether you give 2 pounds, 20 pounds or 
 200 pounds the relative proportions are here given for the three 
 elements. You can always, in sandy or loamy soil add lime with 
 positive good results, and especially in clay soil. Give as much 
 lime as j'ou do of the highest named ingredient. For instance, if 
 an acre of calibage requires 200 pounds of nitrate of soda to 
 
GARDENHELPS 99 
 
 furnish nitrogen ; 'AoO pounds of superphosphate to furnish phos- 
 phoric acid and 100 pounds of sulphate of potash to furnish re- 
 quired amount of potash, then add 350 pounds of lime. It is best 
 to plow it in before you put in the other elements. The figures 
 are given for the acre, but you can measure your plot, lot or tract 
 and take the acre as the guide to the amount needed for a larger 
 or smaller tract. 
 
 FORMULAS : 
 
 Nitrate Super- 
 
 of Soda phospliate Potash 
 
 Cabbage 200 lbs. 350 lbs. 100 lbs. 
 
 Cantaloupes 400 lbs. 500 lbs. 200 lbs. 
 
 Tomatoes 100 lbs. 400 lbs. 100 lbs. 
 
 Sweet Potatoes (top di'essing) .200 lbs. 200 l!;s. 100 lbs. 
 
 Strawberries, 200 lbs. 400 lbs. 100 lbs. 
 
 Melons, two ai)plications 800 lbs. 800 lbs. 100 lbs. 
 
 Potatoes 200 lbs. 300 lbs. 100 lbs. 
 
 Corn 200 lbs. 400 ll)s. 200 lbs. 
 
 THE USE OF NITRATE OF SODA 
 
 Nitrate of Soda for use in all garden operations, raising nur- 
 sery stock and stimulating leaf growth is most beneficial. 
 
 The consensus of opinion as pul)lished by various experi- 
 mental stations of the government give these conclusions. The 
 agricultural authorities by careful experimentation establish the 
 fact that 100 i)!)unds of Nitrate of Soda applied to the crops 
 named below will produce increased yields as here given: 
 
 Barley — increase 400 pounds grain. 
 
 Corn — increase, 280 pounds grain. 
 
 Oats — increase, 400 pounds grain. 
 
 Eye — increase, 300 pounds grain. 
 
 Wheat — increase, 300 pounds of grain. 
 
 Potatoes — increase, 3,600 pounds of tubers. 
 
 Hay — increase, 1,000 pounds cured hay. 
 
 Cotton — increase, 500 pounds seed cotton. 
 
 Sugar Beets — increase, 4,000 pounds in tubers. 
 
 Beets— increase, 4,000 pounds in tubers 
 
 Sweet Potatoes— increase 3,000 pounds in tubers. 
 
 Cabbage — increase, 6,000 pounds. 
 
100 GARDENHELPS 
 
 Carrots — increase, 7,800 pounds. 
 
 Onions — increase 1,800 pounds. 
 
 Turnips — increase, 37 per cent. 
 
 Strawberries — increase, 200 quarts. 
 
 Asparagus — increase, 100 bunches. 
 
 Tomatoes — increase, 100 baskets 
 
 Celery — increase. 30 per cent. 
 
 Plants take up most of* their nitrogen during the early period 
 of their growth. 
 
 There is no danger of the nitrate being leached out of the 
 soil where irrigation is the practice, as the moisture seldom reach- 
 es deeper than the root system of the plants. Nitrate of Soda 
 looks much like common salt and if cattle can get to it they some- 
 times eat it in quantities sufficient to injure them. Soak the empty 
 bags in a barrel of water; it will be sutficient to make good liquid 
 fertilizer. 
 
 Break all lumps with l)ack of shovel on the barn floor so it 
 will dissolve evenly. If you mix it with superphosphates or otln-r 
 fertilizer, put the desired quantity of each in separate piles on a 
 floor, then mix all evenly. Nitrate of Soda, unlike sulphate of 
 ammonia, dried blood and other mixed fertilizers, can be mixed 
 with lime or ashes without loss of nitrogen. Nitrate of Soda costs 
 from 3 to 5 cents per pound. If 100 pounds are to be applied it 
 should be divided into two periods of application several weeks 
 apart. 
 
 SOIL INOCULATION OR NITROGEN CULTURE 
 
 The new- is ever catching the heels of the past. It is not 
 many years since the thought was uppermost that the soil was 
 simply a mass of inert particles that were acted on by the rains 
 and the seed and only revivified by the action of the plow and 
 the harrow. There was not knowledge of the germ theory as 
 relates to soil. It was confined to the realm of vaccination to 
 improve or destroy functional diseases. But the wand of knowl- 
 edge, rich with the spoils of research, has unfolded to the won- 
 dering eyes of the world that soils contain living bacterial germs 
 that can be used to improve the quality and quantity of crops. 
 They can be taken from the fertile fields and placed in the sterile 
 and presto! the change is truly magical. 
 
 Both with green manuring and the use of "cultures" is the 
 object 6f increased fertilization accomplished. The leguminous 
 
GARDENHELPS 101 
 
 plants STich as peas, beans, vetehes. lir.rr clover, cdw peas and 
 fenngreek possess the quality of nitrogen gatherers fi-om the at- 
 mosphere. Avhere 90 per cent 'of it resides and must by snne means 
 be extracted and put into the soil in order to keep up the supply 
 of nitrogen yearly taken out by the crops. , Nitrogen being the 
 most costly element the gardener or farmer has to supply, these 
 plants are used as cover crops to collect through their system of 
 leaves, branches and r(^ots the nitrogen in the atmosphere and 
 store in nodules on their roots, whence in turn they give it to 
 the soil. Such crops as WhippoorAvill Peas. White Canadila and 
 Scotch Blue Peas are sown lu'oadcast or drilled in in the orchards 
 or tracts of land that need rejuvenation, and the etifect is the 
 same, only magnified, as in the plowing under of clover after 
 land has lain fallow. 
 
 The bacterial germs discovered in unlimited quantities aid 
 the leguminous plants very materially in their work of returning 
 to poor impoverished soil a copious supply of nitrogen from the 
 air. and making good soil more productive. They supplant arti- 
 ficial nitrogenous manures and are easily handled. 
 
 The method of inoculation is extremely simple. The seed is 
 moistened in a solution of the cultures you obtain from the gov- 
 ernment or from seedsmen who keep them. They usually come 
 in dry cotton, as they can be transported more easily this way. 
 When the seed is moistened as per directions which accompany 
 the package and then permitted to dry. it has been inoculated 
 with the bacterial germs that will when put in the soil and cov- 
 ered bring to life millions of minute organisms that will cause 
 the roots of the plants to respond to the action of the germs and 
 form nodules filled with nitrogen. If you were to see the difiPer- 
 ence in size, evidence of vigor and prodigious growth between the 
 plant that had been grown in inoculated soil and the one not so 
 grown, your surprise would l)e bordering on amazement. 
 
 Soil for instance from an inocnlated field of alfalfa taken to 
 a field of poor sickly-growing alfalfa, if sufficient water is at hand 
 and reasonably fair conditions ol)tain, would immediately stimu- 
 late the growth and revive the drooping field. Soil inoculation 
 is one of the innovations of this progressive age that is liringing 
 the world to understand that the occupations of the agriculturist 
 and horticulturist are along truly scientific lines and producing 
 beneficial results. 
 
Insecticides and Fungicides 
 
 INSECTICIDES. 
 
 In a country where almost uninterrupted conditions exist for 
 perpetually producing insect life, the wonder is that there are not 
 more insects to destroy garden and tield crops. But it must be 
 remembered that nature ever strives to maintain a balance and 
 permit no more injurious insects than can be kept in abeyance 
 by predaceous and parasitic insects, that in turn prey on the 
 (^nemies of vegetation. It is only when by some means the bal- 
 ance is disturbed or upset that some bug, worm or fly, liecomes 
 unusually active and conse(|uently destructive. Then it is that 
 artificial remedies other than those supplied by nature are called 
 in requisition. These in the form of sprays, baits, emulsions, dust- 
 ings and repellants, to be successful must be used with TIMELI- 
 NESS, THOROUGHNESS and PERSISTENCY. If you can use 
 a timely repellant and keep the enemy away, it is far better than 
 to have to use more drastic measures involving time, expense and 
 more danger to the plant. 
 
 There are two general classes of insects you w^ill have to be 
 ready to fight. To avoid going into a labyrinth of entomology, 
 which would reciuire a volume to merely outline, we will forego 
 the scientific appellations and divide them into two classes, to-wit : 
 BITING and SUCKING insects. A biting insect flies or crawls 
 on the plant, is not stationary but constantly moving and feeding 
 on the plant. A sucking insect punctures the tender bark and 
 inserts its beak or mouth parts and sucks the life sap from the 
 plant. It will be seen that different methods must be used in 
 any work of eradication. Any insecticide put on the OUTSIDE 
 OF THE PLANT would fall harmless from the back of the insect 
 Hiat had his bill fastened in the plant and was getting his suste- 
 nance from the sap. The first thing to know is how the enemy 
 feeds. Is he chewing and leaving the debris behind him as evi- 
 dence of his presence? If so, you must feed him something that 
 M'ill kill him, and at the same time not injure the plant beyond 
 repair. If he is a sucking insect you must use something that will 
 
GARDEN HELPS 103 
 
 destroy him h\ CONTACT; when the liquid strikes him it must 
 be of a nature that will destroy him and not the plant. 
 
 Having- thus briefly laid down the rule and reason for the 
 practice, we proceed to more specific details ahmg these remedial 
 lines. 
 
 REPELLANTS. 
 
 A repellant is a mixture of ingredients that are so ol)noxious 
 to an insect that it will avoid all possible contact with them, and 
 if these can l)e successfully used the danger is easily averted 
 because the enemy does not storm the citadel. The list is not a 
 long one, and we give those most easily obtained and used. 
 
 Unslaked lime scattered under vines and plants will dispel 
 slugs, snails or roaches. Most crawling insects avoid lime. Coal 
 oil and ashes mixed and scattered under [)lants repel insects. 
 Snuff, sulphur and lime mixed and dusted under and over the 
 plants and carbolic acid mixed with lime and then dried to a 
 powder are excellent repellants for nearly all caterpillars. 
 
 Other preventatives, though not classed as repellants are the 
 various ways of trapping insects: laying bones where ants can 
 find them and when completely covered dropping into hot water; 
 placing boards, sacks or piles of refuse where bugs, criidcets and 
 roaches will crawl under and into them and when trapped de- 
 stroying by any easy means at hand. Tn this connection the burn- 
 ing of tar paper, (or coal tar fumes) is an expedient commonly 
 used and successfully employed against aphis, a species of suck- 
 ing insect, that lives on the underside of leaves and is difficult to 
 reach with ordinary sprays and emulsions. 
 
 Baits are made by chopping grass or green leaves quite fine 
 and mixing one ounce of Paris green or London purple with 8 
 ounces of the chopped leaves; add enough syrup to work into 
 balls which are spread about in the garden to catch wire worms, 
 beetles and crickets. When grasshoppers become epidemic use 
 instead of the leaves, bran and middlings; 40 pounds bran, 15 
 pounds middlings and 20 pounds ars(Miic ; syrup (any thick kind), 
 2 gallons; mix w^th soft water to a paste and scatter where the 
 pests are abundant. A pint of crude carbolic acid mixed with 50 
 pounds of lime or g.ypsum — land plaster — then dried to a pDwder 
 and thrown over trees troubled with curculio has ])een found to 
 be a repellant. To l)urn webs of worms and caterpillars that 
 weave tents and hang themselves in the trees and on weeds, take 
 
104 GARDENHELPS 
 
 a torch made of rags wound around a sticdv and dipped in kerosene. 
 One ounce of copperas — (blue stone) dissolved in a pail of water 
 will destroy insects at the roots of plants or trees. 
 
 Flooding beds infected with ants, wire worms and grubs, 
 keeping the water on for twenty-four hours will destroy the in- 
 sects. The water must be kept in by basining — piling up the earth 
 on the outside in form of ridge to hold the water where the worms 
 or insects may be working. 
 
 PARIS GREEN 
 
 This preparation can be applied either dry or in form of spray. 
 The dry formula is Paris green eight ounces, flour, lime or road 
 dust five pounds Avell mixed and dusted dry on the plants or trees 
 Avhen plant or tree is damp. The wet formula is also used against 
 codlin moth, canker worms, caterpillars and any biting insects : 
 Paris green, five ounces, lime, six pounds and water fifty gallons. 
 Paris green is a metallic preparation and sinks to the bottom of 
 the mixture if not kept constantly stirred. 
 
 It can be used in connection with Bordeaux mixture and thus 
 be of double service as an insecticide and fungiside combined. 
 Place five ounces of Paris green in fifty gallons of the Bordeaux 
 solution. 
 
 ARSENITES 
 
 Dissolve four pounds of sal soda crystals in water enough to 
 cover them, add one pound of white arsenic and boil the mixture 
 till clear, then add enough water to replace amount evaporated to 
 make one gallon. Use one pint of this solution in fifty gallons of 
 water using it as a spray with either Bordeaux or distillate. 
 
 KEROSENE EMULSION 
 
 Kerosene one quart, one and a half pounds of whale oil (pre- 
 ferable) Babbitt's, ivory or other good soap, soft water one gallon. 
 Shave the soap into hot water and churn through a hand force 
 pump until it is emulsified. Dilute with two and a half gallons 
 of water making the mixture one part kerosene to fourteen parts 
 of water, or a seven per cent solution. 
 
 Two gallons of water will give an eight per cent solution ; one 
 and a half gallons will give a nine per cent solution ; one gallon 
 of water produces an eleven per cent solution ; two quarts a fifteen 
 per cent solution. It is best to begin with the standard seven per 
 
GARDENHELPS 105 
 
 cent solution (few plants -will stand the stronger solution). This 
 is used for scale and aphis and all sucking insects. 
 
 BI-SULPHIDE OF CARBON 
 
 This volatile liquid which is as infiamniahle as gasoline is 
 used in destroying insects in stored grain, Aveevil in peas and 
 beans, or worms in potatoes. In stored grain it is poured down 
 tubes into the bins. It can be poured in gopher holes in the 
 ground and the holes closed with wet soil. The vapor flows down 
 and kills the rodent. To destroy life it requires one teaspoonful 
 of the liquid to each cubic foot of bin space where grain or peas 
 are stored. A spoonful poured down a hole made near the roots 
 of a tree infected with wooly aphis will destroy them; in ants' 
 nests, gopher holes and mole runs it is a sovereign remedy. 
 
 BORDEAUX MIXTURE 
 
 Bordeaux mixture is composed of Iilue-stone— copper sul- 
 I)hate — four pounds, (juick lime four pounds or if stronger is 
 i; ceded up to six pounds, water forty to fifty gallons, as per 
 strength required. Dissolve the blue-stone in crock of water, 
 slake lime in enough water to make cream of lime, pour both to- 
 gether at one time into a wooden vessel, stirring vigorously as 
 you add the water. It costs less than one cent a gallon and is very 
 useful against all fungus diseases of plants, shrubs, or fruit trees, 
 especially for curl leaf in peaches, shot hole fungus in plums and 
 almonds. For peach trees which are especially tender, the mixture 
 is some times made weaker: a 3-9-50, 8 bluestone, 9 pounds lime, 
 50 gallons of water instead of the 4-4-40 or 4-6-50 mixture. The 
 addition of more lime is to prevent burning of foliage. When 
 Paris green is used with it, it should not be stirred in until just 
 before using. 
 
 COPPER SOLUTION 
 
 This is used to spray the ground around tomato plants, to 
 prevent blight and to cure it when it appears. Four ounces of 
 bluestone in fifty gallons of water ; drench the soil with it before 
 planting the tomatoes. 
 
 AQUIS AMMONIA SOLUTION 
 
 For plants you do not wnsh to discolor with lime and blue- 
 stone, take copper carbonate six ounces, strong aqua ammonia 
 (26 deg.) two quarts, water fifty gallons. Mix the copper carbon- 
 
106 GARDENHELPS 
 
 ate to a paste with soft water and dilute the ammonia with one- 
 half gallon of water, stir in the copper mixture till it is well dis- 
 solved making two gallons of stock solution, put in a glass ])ottle 
 with rubber stopper. When used, dilute each quart of the above 
 with six gallons of water. 
 
 CORROSIVE SUBLIMATE 
 
 This is used to disinfect scabby potatoes. Put the potatoes 
 in a sack, suspend in a barrel and use two ounces of the corrosive 
 sidilimate in thirty gallons of water, soak the tubers in the liquid 
 for two hours before cutting into seed pieces. This is a violent 
 poison, so great caution must be used in handling it. 
 
 LIME, SULPHUR AND SALT 
 
 Lime and sulphur wash is excellent for winter application in 
 California to destroy pernicious (San Jose) scale. Use unslaked 
 lime twenty-one pounds, flour of sulphur eighteen pounds, wa- 
 ter fifty gallons. IMake a paste of the sulphur in cold water then 
 stir the same into fifteen gallons of boiling water, add the lime 
 and stir constantly while it boils. Boil moderately for forty min- 
 utes and as it boils add enough water to make fifty gallons. Spray 
 while hot.. This is used against scale, plum pocket, leaf curl and 
 blackknot and kindred diseases of trees. This is an easier formula 
 that the old style ''lime sulphur and salt." 
 
 LYE AND SULPHUR 
 
 This formula is used against mites and spiders on plants, 
 citrus and deciduous trees. The sulphur can be used dry on trees 
 and plants afflicted with mites. Take ten pounds of sulphur and 
 mix to a paste in a barrel with a little w^ater, a gallon or more, 
 add ten pounds of lye and as the lye boils the sulphur, add water 
 to keep it from burning or caking, dilute to make a barrel of 
 spray. 
 
 ROAD DUST 
 
 When melon vines are afflicted with black greasy aphis, caused 
 by neglecting too long before destroying them, gather up some 
 pailsful of dry dust and sprinkle on the vines until they are com- 
 pletely covered, then turn the under side up and dust them tho- 
 roughly, leave it on twent,y-four hours, then spray the vines with 
 clean cold water and the aphis will be destroyed if the work is 
 well done. 
 
GARDENHELPS 107 
 
 BUHAC 
 
 This is a p:)W(ler made I'rmn a very oniaiiieiital tloweriiig 
 plant that grows sph^ididly in California and should be in evi- 
 dence in every garden, 'Tyrethrum cinerarifolia'' — -just call it 
 bullae plant. The home grown variety is apt to be best as it has 
 not lost its strength by age. A light brown powder is made from 
 Ihe flower buds, and while poisonous to insect life is not consid- 
 ered so to the human family. It is used dry and in this form is 
 ileadh' against thrips and lice on roses and other phmts infested 
 with them; also for aphis on cabbage and melons or on any plant 
 in the garden troul)led l)y them. It of course must be applied, 
 as any other powder you wish to adhere to the plant, when the 
 plant is damp. You can use a diluter such as Hour or dry road 
 dust with any poison used in the proportion of one part to from 
 six to thirty of the diluter. 
 
 As a fumigator liuhac may be spread on hot coals, held in a 
 pan — the better way is to moisten it and mould it into balls and 
 place on the coals, it will last longer and give better results. In 
 this form it is used against mosquitoes and Hies wnth good results. 
 
 As a decoction, the whole buhac flowers are treated with boil- 
 ing water and left to steep, preventing evaporation. Do not boil 
 the flowers, it destroys their value. Water extract can also be 
 made by pouring 2 quarts of hot water through half a pound of 
 pyrethrum, in a bag, then adding cold water encnigh to make two 
 gallons. This is eft'ective against cabbage worms and aphis. 
 
 Fumigation for sucking insects like lice, aphis, melon aphis 
 and mealy bugs, is done by covering the plant and burning the 
 buhac under it. 
 
 TOBACCO 
 
 Tobacco stems are used for smudging under plants and in 
 closed houses where you are raising plants. The stems are damp- 
 ened and put on coals of flre. Also boil the stems or dust thorough- 
 ly and strain ; then add cold water until the decoction contains 
 two gallons of li(iuid to one pound of tobacco. 
 
 HOT WATER. 
 
 This simple remedy is one of the most useful and if you are 
 provided with a spraying apparatus by which you can put it on 
 the plant up to a heat of 125 degress it is death to all insects it 
 comes in contact with and is one of the very best contact sprays. 
 
 Salt and water can be used with excellent effect on cabbage, 
 
108 GARDENHELPS 
 
 cauliflower and broccoli. Sprinkled or sprayed into the heads, 
 it is a sure remover of lice and aphis. 
 
 REMEDIES FOR EACH PARTICULAR PEST 
 
 We give the remedy best known to destroy insects working 
 on plants. The list includes both for the niandibulae (biting 
 insects) and those which suck their food, known as true bugs. 
 
 ANGLEWORMS. 
 
 Angle Worms sometimes destroy plants by burrowing. Lime 
 water in the soil burns them; bi-sulphide of carbon used by driv- 
 ing down iron pin and pouring the liquid in the hole so made, then 
 covering it with moist earth fills the soil and destroys insect life 
 of any description. It is intlammable like kerosene and should not 
 be used near a light, unless you wish to use it as you would 
 kerosene poured into the soil and fired. 
 
 ANTS. 
 
 Use the bi-sulphide of carbon or kerosene lighted in the bur- 
 I'ows. A teaspoonful of the bi-sulphide in a hole six inches deep 
 made Avith a picket pin, then closed, is a remedy where ants bur- 
 row in lawns. 
 
 In strawberry beds and places where they are burrowing at 
 the roots make a basin of earth around the plant or .bed and keep 
 filled with water for 24 hours. Do not keep the water on longer at 
 one time, it might injure the plant. 
 
 APHIS OR PLANT LICE 
 
 These occur on melons, cabbages, turnips and various plants 
 in the form of small green, black or purple lice. They cover the 
 leaves and stems and sometimes the entire plant. Use hot water 
 np to 125 degrees Fahrenheit on cabbage, cauliflower and similar 
 plants on which they feed. I^se on cauliflower quite strong brine 
 then wash off with fresh water. Wash them ofif by force with 
 water from the hose. Use on plants that will bear it kerosene 
 and water. One part kerosene to ten parts w^ater. Cover melons 
 or kindred plants entirel,y with road dust for 24 hours, then wash 
 off and the aphis Mall disappear. Bi-sulphide of carbon may 
 also be used against the plant lice family, by covering the hill 
 of vines with a tub or small low tent so the fumes cannot escape ; 
 putting earth around the bottom after putting in a small dish 
 containing a tablespoonful of the licpiid. In evaporating, it de- 
 
GARDENHELPS 109 
 
 stroys the insects. This phm can be used when the liee are on the 
 underside of the leaves and cannot be reached by other means, 
 but generally to turn the vines over and cover with dust will 
 remove them if thick enough and left on sufficient time. Coal 
 tar fumes, burning tar paper under vines, are useful remedies 
 against nearly all insects. 
 
 CATERPILLARS 
 
 These hairy, crawling insects are the larvae of butterflies, the 
 best known being the "army worm" the larvae of the l)utterfly 
 known as Lucania unipunctata, the fore wings being pictured with 
 spots. These pests appear in myriads, when it happens that the 
 conditions are unfavorable for the natural enemies to keep them 
 down. They devour everything in sight in the line of vegetables 
 and are an illustration of what would happen if permitted to go 
 unmolested. As they are biting insects, remedies must be used 
 that wnll kill them by dusting or spraying the plants with some 
 poison such as Paris green or London purple, both preparations 
 of arsenic. If used dry, take one part of the arsenical prepara- 
 tion to fifty parts flour, air slaked lime, road dust or wood ashes. 
 In using the dry preparations the best time to apply the dust is 
 when the plants are damp. This is the strongest dry mixture 
 recommended and some plants will not stand it so strong, even 
 100 to 200 parts of the diluter being sufficient. If used wet in 
 form of spray to treat tomatoes, potatoes and other plants, the 
 poison must be mixed with lime to prevent burning the foliage, 
 and it must be kept stirred up or the metallic poison will sink to 
 the bottom and leave the water on the top. This would injure 
 both ways; j'ou would waste time in putting the water on, and 
 the poison would be so strong in the bottom of the liarrel it would 
 kill everything it touched in the form of plant life. Not more 
 than one pound of the poison to 250 gallons of water, and for trees 
 where codlin moth is to be killed 300 gallons of w^ater should be 
 used. If the Arsenate of Lead is used— a compound that stays 
 on better and lasts longer, one pound in 75 galhms of water is 
 used. The above remedies are employed against all biting insects 
 whether on plants or trees, only reciuiring judgment as to the 
 amount when a plant is tender or of stronger nature and growth. 
 
 This treatment applies to all caterpillars, corn worms, tomato 
 worms, measuring worms, roaches and beetles, cucumber wn)rms 
 and 3'ellow bugs (that attack all the melons, squash and pumpkins) 
 
110 G A RD EN H E L PS 
 
 harlequin or calico bugs, snout beetles, slugs and snails, in fact all 
 the running, creeping, crawling things on top of the earth that 
 bite and eat ar/ay the plant instead of sucking only the sap. The 
 monstrous green caterpillars, the larvae of giant Cecropia moth, 
 can best be disposed of by hand picking, for while large and for- 
 midable they are not generally numerous. 
 
 CUT WORMS 
 
 These members of the caterpillar family are not hairy and 
 range in color from a dirty grey to a dirty yellow. They hide in 
 the daytime and wdien it is too warm to be above ground, at the 
 base of a plant and feed on it but at night come out and fill up 
 on everything in sight, so of course can be destroyed by the same 
 remedies used against their hairy cousins. Sometimes we have an 
 epidemic of "climbing cut worms," the larvae of the moth known 
 as the "Carneades scabens" and sometimes called army worms, 
 they are so destructive. These worms do not like potash, espec- 
 i;dly kanit, so its use in the soil generally serves the good purpose 
 of cleaning them out and at the same time furnishes the needed 
 supply. 
 
 Heavy doses of lime in the soil are obnoxious to all root feed- 
 ing insects, cut worms, wnre worms, erawigs, sow^ bugs, slugs and 
 snails that keep in or close to the surface and feed on, erode and 
 girdle plants. The asparagus beetle comes in this class, though 
 he comes up on the plant and feeds on the very tender shoots. 
 The Avhite grub, often seen curled up when moving manure piles 
 is a mischievous enemy, l)ut is adverse to liming. Always use 
 unslaked lime for all purposes where it is to penetrate the soil; 
 the air slaked will do as a dilutent or repellant, but its most 
 caustic quality is needed where you wash to destroy insects of any 
 kind in the soil. IMost of these earth worms come out at night and 
 if bait made of l)ran or poisoned clover, chopped grass or leaves 
 is used it will kill many. Traps like pieces of board, rags or re- 
 fuse under which they can crawl will collect many of them. 
 
 POD RUST, 
 
 " Anihracnose" or pod rust attacks string beans, showing in 
 reddish brown spots. Lima beans are also attacked by a felt coat- 
 ing on the pods and the young shoots and leaves are also injured. 
 The remedy is to use the Bordeaux on first appearance, and it 
 may require several applications to entirely eradicate either dis- 
 
G A R D E N H E L PS 111 
 
 ease. If the beans mildew, dry sulplmi- sliould he ai);)lied nn the 
 first appearance of tlie dinvny lookiiiii' mould. 
 
 BEET DISEASES. 
 
 Leaf spot hi'gins with an ash grey CDloring of tlu' leaf that 
 finally becomes ragged and dead. Root rot and scab (same as 
 attacks potatoes) are treated with application of Bordeaux. Tn 
 ease of scab, rotate and plant in a diiferent place next crop. 
 Afler adding lime to the soil, work it in instead of leaving it 
 above. To sweeten the soil, it requires about 75 bushels to the 
 acre. The lime is a remedy for the similar disease in radish, 
 turnip and kindred plants. If you have fed the stock the scabby 
 roots you may expect the return of the disease in liie manure, 
 which can be cured by mixing it with lime before putting it in 
 the soil. 
 
 Celery sun-seald appears in yellow spots on the leaf which 
 later turn brown and die. It is cured I)y application of Bordeaux. 
 
 MILDEW 
 
 Another class of plant disease is mildew, relative to the mould 
 you see on mouldy bread. It is successfvdly treated with sulphur 
 dusted on dry. Especially peas and beans in very warm weather, 
 are apt to mildew, fn planting the peas it is well to sprinkle some 
 sulphur in the drills where and when you plant, and after coming 
 up if any sign of the disease shows on the leaves, dust with the 
 dry tlour of sulphur. It is used Avith telling effect against all 
 plants, trees aiul shi'ubs that are troubled with the mite and red 
 spider family. It nmst be dusted on when plants are wet and 
 when it is likely to be a day of full sunshine, as it re(piires the 
 heat of the sun to raise the fumes that destroy the insects. If 
 made into a spray, it has to be dissolved by heat; or after being 
 mixed to a paste with cold water caustic soda (concentrated lye) 
 is added and it boils or dissolves the sulphur much as water slakes 
 lime. Enough water nmst be added (as it cooks in the potash) 
 to keep it from burning or forming into a solid cake. This sulphur 
 spray can also be used in connection with the fungicides as before 
 luentioned, in a similar manner, where mites and fiuigus are work- 
 ing on the same plant or tree. Sulphur should never be used as 
 a means of fumigation except in rooms where the object is to de- 
 stroy insect life, in stored articles or to rid buildings of roaches, 
 l)ugs or moth. It cannot be used as a fumigator to kill insects on 
 
112 GARDENHELPS 
 
 plants, as it will kill the plant as well as the insects. For the 
 purpose of fumigation, plants can be covered and cyanide of 
 potassium dropped into sulphuric acid will produce deadly fumes 
 that will kill insects, and if used in the right proportion will not 
 kill the plant. The method is used in killing scale on trees. Sul- 
 phur as found on the market is largely adulterated if cheap goods 
 are purchased. 
 
 FUNGUS 
 
 A fungus is some disease either transmitted from other plants, 
 carried by wind or transmitted by insects, but generally an in- 
 herent trouble arising from the disturbance of life cells by other 
 organisms that enter the life functions of the plant. It may be 
 slow in progress, or its work suddenly destructive ; the plant may 
 linger in distress struggling for life or it may be suddenly cut off 
 by undiscovered causes. Most of the known diseases are well 
 defined and remedies can be applied to save and restore, but of 
 course there is consequent loss. As with the insect trouble it is 
 best to nip the evil in the bud, and so fungicides are used to first 
 give relief and prevent the appearance of deadly disease, whether 
 above or beneath the surface. The remedies are used both wet 
 and dry, but generally in the form of sprays. 
 
Calendar of Operations 
 
 ESPECIALLY ADAPTED TO SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 
 
 JANUARY. 
 
 Flower Garden — Continue to plant lilies. All kinds of evergreen and de- 
 ciduous shrubs can now he planted. The planting of hyacinths, tulips, narcissi, 
 etc., should be completed this month. Hardy annuals may be sown out-of-doors, 
 and, where artificial heat is obtainable, half-hardy animals may be sown. A 
 hotbed of stable manure is easily prepared by piling it 4 or 5 feet in height, well 
 watered and trampled down, over which place a large box or frame, with glass 
 sash, taking care to air and sweeten the bed well before using. 
 
 Vegetable Garden — For main crop sow broccoli, carrot, chicory and jiarsnip. 
 At the end of the month, in warm, sheltered situations, early Rose potatoes may 
 be planted. Plant asparagus, horseradish and rhubarb roots. These all require 
 deeply worked ground. Dress beds already planted with about 3 inches of well- 
 rotted manure. Cucumbers, eggplant, melons, peppers, squashes and tomatoes 
 may be sown under glass for after-planting. A safe plan is to sow about 5 
 seeds of each variety on reversed pieces of sod, about 4 inches square. On plant- 
 ing in the ground, insert the sod with the growing plants and firm the soil in 
 the usual way. By this method the growing plants will suffer no injury. Stick 
 and hill up peas and other crops requiring it, and attend strictly to cleanliness. 
 
 FEBRUARY. 
 
 F/ourr Garden — General planting of evergreens and shrubs should be com- 
 pleted as soon as possible. Also finish planting lilies, anemones and ranunculi. 
 Commence planting gladiola bulbs for succession. Sow hardy annuals out-of- 
 doors, especially sweet peas, and half-hardy annuals as recommended for last 
 month. This is the best month in which to sow acacia seeds. Soak for 24 hours 
 before sowing, or where practicable, spread dry leaves or bushes over the beds 
 after sowing and watering and set fire to them. This is the best manner of sow- 
 ing all hard tree seeds. 
 
 Vegelahle Garden — This and the next month will be the busiest of the year 
 in this department, as nearly all crops may be sown in these two months. Con- 
 tinue planting asparagus and other roots as recommended for last month. Plant 
 main crop of potatoes. Attend to weeding and hilling up. Thin out turnips, 
 carrots and other root crops requiring it. 
 
 MARCH. 
 
 Floiver Garden — Continue planting gladioli bulbs for succession. All hardy 
 and half-hardy annuals may be sown in the open ground this month. Alter- 
 nanthera and other border plants can be planted with safety, as all danger from 
 even slight frost is now over. 
 
 Vegetable Garden — Nearly all vegetable seeds may be freely sown this 
 month. Plant out cucumbers, melons and other plants previously sown under 
 glass. Hill up rows, keep down insects, slugs and vermin, and attend strictly to 
 cleanliness. 
 
114 GARDENHELPS 
 
 APRIL. 
 
 Floix'er Garden — Plant dahlias, gladioli, tuberoses, tigridias, tuberous bego- 
 nias and all summer-flowering bulbs. Continue sowing hardy and half-hardy 
 annuals. Watch rose-bushes, and if troubled with green aphis, use tobacco dust 
 freely. 
 
 VegetaJ;lc Garden — Plant out eggplant, pepper, tomato and sweet potato 
 plants, the latter in light, rich soil, well worked, in rows 6 feet apart, and 2 feet 
 in the rows, and keep the soil well worked. Cultivate well and hill up as re- 
 quired. 
 
 MAY. 
 
 Flovcer Garden — As hyacinths, tulips, narcissi, etc., die down, the bulbs 
 should be dug up, and stored away in a cool, dry place till fall, when they may 
 be replanted. The vacancies thus created should be filled with other flowering 
 plants. Halfhardy and other annuals may still be sown, and summer-flowering 
 bulbs be planted. The garden should now be brilliant with flowers, and all sow- 
 ing, planting and general cleaning up should be completed this month, ready for 
 the summer season. 
 
 Vegetable Garden — Pinch out points of shoots of cucumbers, melons, squash, 
 etc., as soon as they commence flowering. Sow vegetable seeds for succession, and 
 keep surface of soil well broken. 
 
 JUNE. 
 
 Flovcer Garden — Trim edgings of borders and hedges, and carefully attend 
 to watering. Dahlias and gladioli may still be planted. Sow eucalyptus and 
 cypress seeds for winter planting. 
 
 Vegetable Garden — Hill up all growing crops and stick pole-beans and tall 
 peas as required. 
 
 JULY. 
 
 Flozver Garden — Continue to dig up and store bulbs as they ripen. Trim 
 edgings and hedgerows and sow perennial flower seeds in shady situations. 
 Continue sowing, eucalyptus and cypress seeds. 
 
 Vegetable Garden — Cultivate well between the rows. Sow vegetable seeds 
 for succession. If manure is used during this hot month, it should be in liquid 
 form. 
 
 AUGUST. 
 
 Floii'er Garden — This Is the best month in the year in which to sow hard\' 
 perennials. Most varieties if sown this month will flower the next year. Also 
 sow calceolaria, cineraria, pansy and primula seeds. Continue sowing eucalyptus 
 and cypress seeds. 
 
 Vegetable Garden — Plant second crop of potatoes. Sow cabbage, cauliflower 
 and spinach for main crops. 
 
 SEPTE3IBER. 
 
 Flourr Garden — Commence planting hyacinths, tulips, anemones and other 
 Dutch bulbs toward the end of the month. Prick oflf calceolarias, cinerarias and 
 primulas sown last month, into small pots, and continue sowing same for sue- 
 
GARDENHELPS 115 
 
 cession. Paiisies can be grown better transplanted into a vveil-manured bed tlian 
 in pots, as they are not so liable to be attacked by the red spider. Pansy seed may 
 be sown for succession until the end of November. Also sow all the hardy an- 
 nuals and perennials. 
 
 Vegetable Garden — Many varieties of vegetable seeds may be sown this 
 month. Plant out cabbage and cauliflower plants sown in July. 
 
 OCTOBER. 
 
 Flo=iver Garden — Hyacinths and other Dutch bulbs should be planted freelv 
 this month; also early lilies. Cineraria and primula seed may still be sown for 
 late flowering. Continue sowing hardy annuals. 
 
 Vei^elable Garden — Sow largely peas, onions and spinach for main crop; 
 also other seeds for succession, especially winter radishes. 
 
 \OVE3mER. 
 
 Flozver Garden — Continue planting hyacinths and other Dutch bulbs, and 
 lilies of all kinds; also plant roses, evergreens and deciduous shrubs of all kinds. 
 Form new lawn and renovate old ones. Carry out landscape alterations, 
 if required; dig and manure borders, and energeticalK' proceed with all 
 heavy work. 
 
 Fegetahle Garden — Sow seeds as recommended in reference table for this 
 month, and hill up young crops. Keep tlie ground thoroughly clean, and dig or 
 plow manure in all unoccupied ground for future use. Keep down slugs by free 
 use of salt, lime, or any other dressing which is beneficial to the growing crop. 
 
 DECEMBER. 
 
 Flozirr Garden — Operations same as last month. 
 J'egetable Garden — Operations same as last month. 
 
 PLANTS REST FOR FORCING IX A GLASS OR CLOTH HOUSE. 
 
 Asparagus, bush beans, carrots, cauliflower, cress, cucumber (white spine) 
 parsley, peas, tomato, muskmelons. 
 
 GRADIXG PRUNES. 
 
 Our California prunes are usually graded in six sizes by using wire inesh 
 of dimensions given below : 
 
 Grade. Width of Mesh 
 
 For Green Fruit. For Dried Fruit. 
 
 Extra, 40 to 50 to pound i-34 il4 
 
 No. I, 50 to 60 to pound i34 i^ 
 
 No. 2, 60 to 70 to pound 1/4 I 
 
 No. 3, 70 to 80 to pound i 'A 
 
 No. 4, 80 to 90 to pound 'A '-^ 
 
 No. 5, 90 to 100 to poiHid ^ -Xs 
 
WEIGHTS PER BUSHEL 
 
 lbs. 
 
 Alfalfa 60 
 
 Artichokes, Jerusalem 60 
 
 Barley 48 
 
 Beans, bush and pole 60 
 
 " Castor 4.6 
 
 Broom Corn Seed 46 
 
 Bran 20 
 
 Buckwheat 50 
 
 Canary Seed 60 
 
 Charcoal r'2 
 
 Clover, Red, White and Alsike.... 60 
 
 " Japanese 25 
 
 Corn, Egyptian 50 
 
 " Jerusalem 50 
 
 " Kaffir 50 
 
 " Shelled 56 
 
 " Pop 70 
 
 Flax Seed .' 56 
 
 Grass Seed, Blue 14 
 
 " " Brome 14 
 
 " " Crested Dogstail 20 
 
 lbs. 
 
 Grass Seed, Hungarian 48 
 
 Mesquite 7 
 
 " " Orchard 14 
 
 " " Red Top 14 
 
 " Rye Grass Perennial.. 20 
 
 " Rye Grass Italian 20 
 
 " Timothy 45 
 
 Hemp 44 
 
 Millet 50 
 
 Milo Maize 50 
 
 Onions 57 
 
 " sets 32 
 
 Peanuts 22 
 
 Peas, round seeded 60 
 
 " Wrinkled 56 
 
 Potatoes 60 
 
 " sweet 50 
 
 Rye 56 
 
 Sorghum "^o 
 
 Vetches 60 
 
 Wheat 60 
 
 SOWING TABLE FOR THE GARDEN. 
 
 Quantity of seed required to produce a given number of plants, g»- to sow a 
 given quantity of ground. 
 
 Artichoke i oz. to 500 plants 
 
 Asparagus 
 
 ... .1 oz. to 60 ft. of drill 500 plants 
 Beans, Dwarf. . . .1 lb. to 50 ft of drill 
 
 Beans, Tall i lb. to 75 hills 
 
 Beets I oz. to 50 ft. of drill 
 
 Broccoli I oz. to 2,000 plants 
 
 Brussels Sprouts., i oz. to 2,000 plants 
 
 Cabbage i oz. to 2,000 plants 
 
 Carrot i oz. to 150 ft. of drill 
 
 Cauliflower i oz. to 2,000 plants 
 
 Celery 1 oz. to 5,000 plants 
 
 Chicory i oz. to 100 ft. of drill 
 
 Corn I lb. to 150 hills 
 
 Cress I oz. to 100 ft. of drill 
 
 Cucumber 1 oz. to 100 hills 
 
 Eggplant 1 oz. to 2,000 plants 
 
 Endive i oz. to 3,000 plants 
 
 Kale r oz. to 2,000 plants 
 
 Kohlrabi i oz. to 2,000 plants 
 
 Leek i oz to 100 ft. of drill 
 
 Lettuce i oz. to 5,000 plants 
 
 Melon, W'ater i oz. to 30 hills 
 
 Melon, Musk i oz. to 100 hills 
 
 Okra I oz. to 50 ft. of drill 
 
 Onion Seed....i oz. to 100 ft. of drill 
 Onion, Top Sets..i lb. to 60 ft. of ro'v 
 Onion, Bottom Sets, i lb. to 75 ft. of row 
 
 Parsnip i oz. to 100 ft. of drill 
 
 Parsley x oz. to 100 ft. of drill 
 
 Peas I lb. to 50 ft. of drill 
 
 Pepper i oz. to 1,000 plants 
 
 Pumpkin 1 oz. to 25 hills 
 
 Radish i oz. to 50 ft. of drill 
 
 Salsify i oz. to 50 ft of drill 
 
 Sage I oz. to 100 ft. of drill 
 
 Spinach i oz. to 50 ft. of drill 
 
 Squash, Early i oz. to 50 hills 
 
 Squash, Winter i oz. to 15 hills 
 
 Tomato i oz. to 3,000 plants 
 
 Tobacco I oz to 10,000 plants 
 
 Turnip, Early. . . . i oz. to 75 ft. of drill 
 Turnip, Rutabaga, i oz. to loo ft. of drill 
 
GARDEN HELPS 
 
 117 
 
 DEGREES OF HEAT REQUIRED NIGHT AND DAY FOR PLANTS. 
 
 Under cloth or glass in winter. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Name. Day 
 
 Asparagus 85 deg. 
 
 Beans 70 " 
 
 Cucumber 80 " 
 
 Cauliflower 50 '' 
 
 Lettuce 50 " 
 
 Radish 55 " 
 
 Tomato 75 " 
 
 Melon 80 " 
 
 FLOWERS. 
 
 N 
 
 85 
 60 
 
 ight. 
 deg. 
 
 70 
 
 
 40 
 
 
 40 
 
 
 45 
 60 
 
 
 75 
 
 
 Name 
 
 D ax- 
 Rose 65 ' 
 
 Lily, Easter 65 ' 
 
 Lily of Valley 90 ' 
 
 Carnations 60 ' 
 
 Chrysanthemums ...50 ' 
 
 Smilax 60 ' 
 
 Asparagus Plumosa.70 ' 
 
 Violet 50 ' 
 
 Night. 
 55 
 50 
 90 
 55 
 45 
 60 
 60 
 40 
 
 TIME IN WHICH SEEDS GERMINATE. 
 
 Days. 
 
 Beans 5 to 10 
 
 Beets 7 to 10 
 
 Cabbage 5 to to 
 
 Cauliflower 5 to 10 
 
 Celery 10 to 20 
 
 Corn 5 to 8 
 
 Cucumbers 6 to 10 
 
 Lettuce 5 to 6 
 
 Endive 5 to lo 
 
 Days. 
 
 Onions 7 to 10 
 
 Peas 6 to to 
 
 Parsnips 10 to zo 
 
 Peppers 9 to 10 
 
 Radishes 3 to 6 
 
 Salsify 7 to 12 
 
 Tomato 6 to 12 
 
 Turnips 4 to 8 
 
 SEED REQUIRED FOR AN ACRE. 
 
 Pounds. 
 
 Alfalfa, clean seed 25 
 
 Barle_v, broadcast 100 
 
 Beans, dwarf or bush, hills 40 
 
 Beans, dwarf or bush, drill 80 
 
 Beans, pole, hills 25 
 
 Beets, garden 6 
 
 Beets, sugar 6 
 
 Beets, stock, mangles 6 
 
 Broom Corn, in drills 12 
 
 Cabbage, sown in beds to transplant 1 2 
 
 Corn, sweet, in hills 15 
 
 Cucumbers, in hills i to 2 
 
 Flax, for seed 30 
 
 Flax, for fiber <;o 
 
 Vetches, broadcast 100 
 
 Wheat, broadcast 100 
 
 Grass, Bermuda 10 
 
 Grass, Kentucky blue 50 
 
 Pounds. 
 
 Hemp 50 
 
 Melon, Water, hills 2 to 3 
 
 Melon, Musk, hills 2 to 3 
 
 Oats, broadcast 80 
 
 Onions, drills 4 
 
 Onions, for sett 30 
 
 Parsnips, drills 5 
 
 Peas, in drills 50 to 80 
 
 Peas, broadcast 1 50 
 
 Potatoes, in hills 600 
 
 Pumpkin, in hills 3 
 
 Radish, in drills 12 
 
 Rye, broadcast loo 
 
 Spinach, drills 12 
 
 Squash, hills 4 
 
 Tomatoes, in beds, transplant J/2 
 
 Turnip, broadcast 3 to 4 
 
118 GARDENHELPS 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS MEASURES. 
 
 56,000 liquid grains maiie a gallon. 
 
 One-tenth of an inch, one line — American measure. 
 
 One-third of an inch is a "size" in footwear. 
 
 Three inches is a palm measurement. 
 
 Four inches is a "hand" measure. 
 
 Four inches is one "span" measure. 
 
 Nine inches is one "span" — horse measure. 
 
 Eighteen inches is one cubit. 
 
 Three and three-tenths feet is a pace, 2I2 feet, a military pace. 
 
 One gallon, wine measure, is 231 cubic inches. 
 
 A dry gallon is 268.8 cubic inches. 
 
 An Imperial gallon, 277.274 cubic inches. 
 
 United States bushel 2150.4 cubic inches. 
 
 A pint of water equals 1.043 1 pounds. 
 
 A gallon of water equals 8.2446 pounds. 
 
 A cubic foot of water equals 52.425 pounds at 39.2 Fahr. deg. 
 
 A statute mile is 1760 yards. 
 
 HOUSEHOLD MEASURES. 
 
 60 drops of water is one teaspoonful. 
 
 One teaspoonful equals one fluid drachm. 
 
 Two tabiespoonfuls equal one fluid ounce. 
 
 A common sized tumbler holds half a pint. 
 
 One pint of wheat is equal to one pound. 
 
 One pound two ounces of Indian meal is equal to one quart. 
 
 One pound of melted butter is equal to one pint. 
 
 One pound of sugar equals one pint. 
 
 One pint of pure water equals one pound. 
 
 FOREIGN COINS. 
 
 French franc, nearly twenty cents — 19.3. 
 German mark, about 24 cents. 
 Italian lira nearly 20 cents. 
 Dutch florin, 40 cents. 
 Spanish peseta 20 cents. 
 Russian rouble about 54 cents. 
 Austrian florin about 33 cents. 
 
G A R D E N H K L PS 119 
 
 CALIFORNIA FRUIT 3IEASUREMENTS. 
 
 The major portion of sales transactions of fruit in California marketing are 
 by pounds in weight, but a bushel measure is nineteen and a half inches in 
 diameter outside; half bushel, fifteen and a half inches; a peck is twelve and 
 a half inches. 
 
 Produce sold by dry measure must be heaped as full as the measure will 
 hold, but usually grain is sold by sacks weighing one hundred pounds or less. 
 
 For apples and pears the boxes are twenty-two inches in length, ends ten by 
 twelve inches. This is called a fifty pound box, but it is sh.ort weight. 
 
 Cherry boxes are fifteen and a half inches long and the ends eight and a 
 half by three and a half. 
 
 Fig boxes (twenty pound — two layer) are twenty inches long; ends two bv 
 three and a half. Single layer boxes are same length, but two inches deep and 
 hold nearly twelve pounds. 
 
 Grapes are usually shipped either in baskets containing four pounds, eight 
 of which baskets make a whole crate. Boxes generallv contain twentv-five 
 pounds. Sometimes grapes are shipped in baskets filled between with sawdust. 
 
 Oranges are shipped in boxes with partition in center as support, dimensions 
 being twenty-two inches long by seven and tliree-fourths deep by seventeen and 
 a half wide. This comprises the fiat box, but the one most used is twenty-six 
 and a half by eleven and one-fourth. 
 
 Lemon boxes are similar in form to orange boxes and weigh seventy pounds 
 when filled. 
 
 Canteloupe crates are thirty-eight inches long by sixteen inches in width and 
 fifty inches deep. 
 
 Watermelons are usually shipped in bulk in car or in any sort of large 
 crate or boxes. 
 
 Dried fruits are shipped in eighty-pound sacks. 
 
 Plums are packed in twenty-pound boxes, nineteen and a half long by twelve 
 and a half inches wide and four and one-fourth inches deep. 
 
 Peaches are usually in twenty-two-pound boxes of the same size as the 
 plum box. The twenty-five-pound, twenty-seven-pound and thirty-pound are the 
 largest sizes. 
 
SEP M 1»»1 
 
 120 
 
 GARDEN HELPS 
 
 Useful Reference Table 
 
 Showing at a glance the beSl: time to plant the different kinds of seeds and plants, 
 average time to mature and di^ance apart. 
 
 VARIETY. 
 
 
 Artichoke, Globe 
 
 Asparagus (seed) 
 
 Asparagus (roots) 
 
 Beet, Table Varieties.. 
 Beans, Broad or English 
 Beans, Dwarf or Bush.. 
 
 Beans, Pole 
 
 Broccoli 
 
 Brussels, Sprouts 
 
 Cabbage, Early (seeds) . 
 Cabbage, Early (plants) 
 Cabbage, Late (seeds) . . 
 Cabbage, Late 'plants). 
 
 Carrot 
 
 Cauliflower (seerlsi 
 
 Cauliflower (plants).... 
 
 Celery 
 
 Chervil 
 
 Chives 
 
 Collards 
 
 (Chicory 
 
 Corn, Sweet 
 
 C;orn, Salad 
 
 Caress 
 
 Cucumber 
 
 Dandelion 
 
 Eggplant ( seeds) 
 
 Eggplant (plants > 
 
 Endive 
 
 Garlic (sets) 
 
 Horse-radish (sets)... 
 
 Kale 
 
 Kohlrabi 
 
 Leek 
 
 Lettuce 
 
 Melons, Musk 
 
 Melons, Water 
 
 Mustard 
 
 Okra 
 
 Onion (seeds) 
 
 Onion (sets) 
 
 Parsley 
 
 Parsnip 
 
 Peas 
 
 Pepper (seeds) 
 
 Pepper (plants) 
 
 Potato (sets) 
 
 Potato, Sweer rprantsi. 
 
 Pumpkin 
 
 Radish 
 
 Rhubarb (seeds) 
 
 Rhubarb (roots) 
 
 Salsify 
 
 Spinach 
 
 Tobacco 
 
 Tomato (seeds) 
 
 Tomato (plants) 
 
 Turnip 
 
 Turnip, Swede, or Ruta 
 baga 
 
 Herl)s 
 
 ^< 
 
 P 
 
 s s 
 
 
 Maturity Table 
 
 Distance to 
 Plant 
 
 4 months 
 3 years 
 Second year 
 
 7 to 8 weeks 
 3 months 
 
 6 to S weeks 
 
 8 weeks 
 
 3 months 
 
 4 months 
 
 3 Yo months 
 31/^ months 
 
 4 months 
 4 months 
 
 3 months 
 
 4 to .5 months 
 
 4 to 5 months 
 
 5 months 
 
 6 weeks 
 
 2 to 3 months 
 
 3 months 
 6 weeks 
 
 2 to 3 months 
 
 6 to 7 weeks 
 1 to 2 weeks 
 
 7 to 10 weeks 
 
 5 to 9 weeks 
 
 3 to 4 months 
 3 to 4 months 
 (i weeks 
 
 3 to 4 months 
 
 6 months 
 
 4 to 5 months 
 4 months 
 
 3 to 4 months 
 
 4 to 7 weeks 
 
 4 to 5 months 
 3 to 4 months 
 1 to 2 weeks 
 
 3 months 
 
 ZVz to 5 months 
 3V^ to 5 months 
 
 7 to 10 weeks 
 
 4 months 
 
 6 to 10 weeks 
 4 to .5 months 
 4 to 5 months 
 2V-i to 4 months 
 
 3 to 4 months 
 
 4 months 
 
 3 to .5 weeks 
 
 3 years 
 Second year 
 
 4 to 5 months 
 1 month 
 
 7 months 
 
 3 to 5 months 
 3 to .5 months 
 
 8 to 10 weeks 
 
 24x36 inches 
 
 36.X18 
 
 36x18 
 
 18x 4 
 
 24x 4 
 
 3 Ox 2 
 
 3(1X30 
 
 36x24 
 
 24x18 
 
 24x18 
 
 24x18 
 
 36x24 
 
 36x24 
 
 18x 4 
 
 30x18 
 
 30x18 
 
 48x 8 
 
 13x 4 
 
 ]2x 4 
 
 36x18 
 
 12x12 
 
 36x12 
 
 12x 6 
 
 Thickly 
 
 48x48 
 
 6x 6 
 36x36 
 36x36 
 12x 6 
 18x 4 
 12x 4 
 24x12 
 18x 6 
 12x 5 
 24x12 
 60x6(t 
 96x96 
 Thickly 
 36x12 
 12x 4 
 12x 4 
 12x 6 
 ]8x 6 
 
 30 between roTva 
 30x12 inches 
 30x12 
 24x12 
 48x18 
 96x96 
 
 8x 2 
 48x48 
 48x48 
 18x 4 
 Thickly 
 24x24 
 48x48 
 48x48 
 18x 4 
 
 4 to 6 months 24x12 
 Sow thinly in drills 
 

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