JESSE JOJSlES 8t CO., 
 
 manufaetupeps of 
 
 *^\''^> 
 
 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 
 
 M 
 
 TJ^ 
 
 Shelf .'H:^ 2^ 
 
 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 
 
 et. 
 
FOR THE MAKING OF 
 
 MACAROONS and ALMOND CONFECTIONS, 
 
 USE 
 
 ^^ HENRY HEIDE'S GENUINE ALMOND PASTE. ^^ 
 
 It is the most reliable article for that purpose. 
 
 It contains by far more almonds, less moisture and less sugar than 
 
 any other make ; hence is the most valuable. It is 
 
 absolutely free from adulterants. 
 
 It Is the only original, and has been on the market over sixteen years. 
 
 For Sale by all first-class Grocers and Supply Dealers. 
 
 OFFICE, 179 FRANKLIN STREET. 
 factory, 14 & 16 HARRISON ST. AND 179, ISI & 183 FRANKLIN ST., 
 
 NEW WAY 
 
WHAT? 
 
 TO MAKE ICE CREAM BY HAND. 
 
 J. L. & H. W. HIGH, 
 
 123 N. THIRD ST., 
 
 PHILADELPHIA 
 
NOTES 
 
 ON 
 
 QImerican 
 
 (^fectionery 
 
 BY 
 
 ^^^ 'v.^ ^^ 
 
 WITH METHODS OF WORKING DIFFERENT BRANCHES 
 
 OF CANDY MAKING, ICE CREAM AND 
 
 SODA WATER. 
 
 PRICE, $2.00. 
 
 DEC 4 )'l 
 
 PUBLISHED BY AUTHOR. 
 
^p*" 
 
 V"!^ 
 
 Copyright, 1891. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA: 
 
 Patteson Printing House, 18 S. Third St. 
 
 1891. 
 
 ^^. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 In offering this book to the manufacturers of 
 American Confections I will endeavor to avoid the 
 common practice of writers (in filling a large vol- 
 ume with ancient ideas, theories and receipts). I hope 
 by the appearance of this little volume to set forth 
 some plain facts in as few words as possible. Some 
 of the theories are new, yet very true. The object 
 I have in view is plain and can be readily defined. 
 After 25 years of experience in long and careful ex- 
 periments of no small importance and value, I feel 
 competent to undertake the important task of coming 
 before the confectioners of the present age. In the 
 pages of this book I have given a detailed statement 
 of many points which I have discovered to be of 
 benefit to the art of confectionery, and have en- 
 deavored to bring the main points within the grasp 
 of all who will read carefully and practice in the 
 art. My theories are well fixed by practical experi- 
 ments and by the evidence of accomplished facts. It 
 
is of interest not only to a few, but to the many 
 who may be interested in the manufacturing of con- 
 fections, ice cream, and soda water. The importance 
 this little work has over many other much larger 
 books can be readily seen and found safe to follow 
 all instruction, as it is laid down in here. I have 
 avoided recommending expensive machinery and im- 
 possibilities for small factories, have kept economy 
 in view when it is really necessary for prosperity. I 
 hope we are all fully aware of the importance of 
 keeping abreast of these progressive times, and by 
 holding a key to scientific and practical experimental 
 knowledge, we have the lead of advancing times in 
 being able to force the way into the future art of 
 confectionery, and by giving my best experience as I 
 have found it will benefit those of my fellow crafts- 
 man to obtain higher advantages in the art, and 
 educate the younger workman, I have accomplished 
 one of my main objects in giving this little work of 
 simple and plain facts to the trade. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 If I were to give proof of theories and reasons 
 why I hold views as it is laid down in this book, 
 I would be obliged to fill a much larger volume of 
 arguments of no real value to the reader, I simply 
 ask those who wish truth of correctness to try the 
 theories with practice, and they will be convinced of 
 the advantage over customary methods which are in 
 use in the confectionery business, further reference to 
 the reliability of the notes before us is really not 
 necessary. 
 
 But it is absolutely essential that we follow the 
 instruction carefully if we would be successful. Too 
 few of us think it necessary to put into practice 
 simple facts, but go on in our old way without im- 
 proving our work, when we might have guides to 
 put us on our way and indicate the course that must 
 be pursued to accomplish anything like success in 
 the confectionery business. 
 
Notes ON Candy. 
 
 Hints on Cream (or Fondant). 
 
 We will commence our remarks by taking up the 
 subject of Cream, as cream is one of the most impor- 
 tant features in the candy business, and when you 
 have a good cream you can make good candy if 
 properly handled. We ought to give this special 
 branch a special study, and in the following hints we 
 will try to give our experience as we see it. As 
 cream is made many ways, and is used for many 
 different purposes, it would be well for us to under- 
 stand more fully the different effects of alkalines on 
 sugar. 
 
 EiFect of Alkalines on Sugar. 
 
 Cream Tartar will act on the grain of sugar after 
 it is made into cream longer than any other alkaline, 
 as you will notice that a bon-bon made from cream 
 in which cream tartar has been used will continue to 
 get mellow for some time after it is made up, and 
 cream that glucose has been used in will commence 
 to dry out soon after it is made up, if it is exposed 
 to the air. Yet there is such a thing as using too 
 
lO NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 much cream tartar, which will kill the grain of sugar, 
 one teaspoon ful of cream tartar to lO pounds of sugar 
 is sufficient to make a good cream. In cases where 
 you want the cream to work longer before sitting, 
 use a little glucose with the cream tartar. By using 
 acetic acid there is less change takes place in a 
 longer period of time than any other alkaline that is 
 used, and acts as a preserver to some extent. 
 
 Change of the Grain of Sugar. 
 
 This is a very special point I wish to call your 
 attention to, as it is necessary to understand this 
 throughly. Sugar is continually undergoing a change 
 after it is made up into cream, and it is not best 
 to have much cream on hand, as fresh cream is best 
 for all purposes. After cream has been turned and 
 laid long enough to mellow up, and is cooled off, it 
 is ready for use, and it is what we may call live 
 cream. 
 
 Live Cream. 
 
 I call it live cream because the grain (although 
 very fine ) is fresh and has not lost its strength as 
 you will notice when you use it for such work as 
 cream wafers ( which are dropped on paper), they 
 will keep fresh for a long time without crystallizing, 
 and will continue to get a little mellow and will 
 keep mellow, and will keep clear of white spots, 
 which is a point that seems to trouble confectioners 
 very much, and you will notice the same effect in 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. II 
 
 dipping Easter eggs, and in di[)ping bon-bons of all 
 kinds ; and here we may say that it is best not to 
 kill your sugar too much for dipping purposes by 
 using too much alkaline. 
 
 Dead Cream. 
 
 Dead cream is what I call cream that has been on 
 hand to long a time and has worked itself to death, 
 and when you use -it you find it does not get mellow 
 as it should do, it will work like a batch that has been 
 cooking to long a time, will not stand, gets a little 
 runny and you have to heat it up hotter to make it 
 sit, and when it commences to get old and dry it 
 gets hard all at once. If we could get cream work- 
 ers to notice the above effect they would not have 
 the trouble that they are always complaining of. 
 
 Different Alkalines for Different Purposes. 
 
 It is best to use different alkalines for different 
 work, such work as cream for drops to be covered 
 with chocolate, or with chopped nuts, or cream 
 which you want to use for inside goods, you will 
 find glucose cream will work best, as you can run it 
 longer than cream tartar cream, which would be too 
 dry and short for the same work, and some work 
 you would require a dry cream that would set quick 
 and stand crystallizing, it is best in such work to 
 use cream tartar. The following is a good way of 
 making cream for covering with chocolate ; 
 
12 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 Covering Cream. 
 
 Place lo pounds of sugar in a pan and add one 
 pound of glucose and enough water to dissolve the 
 sugar so your thermometer will register 230 degrees 
 when it begins to boil, then cook to 238 or 240 de- 
 grees and pour on clean marble and let lay till cool, 
 then turn to a cream, leaving the cream in one 
 lump at one end of the marble and turn a pan or 
 tub up side down over the cream and leave it lay 
 till it becomes mellow, then place it in a farina 
 boiler, or a pan set over a pan of hot water on the 
 fire and stir till it is dissolved, then run it out in 
 the impressions in the starch, leave lay in the starch 
 I or 2 hours, or till it is hard enough to handle, 
 then take the creams out and place them in a sieve 
 and dust the starch off and then cover with chocolate. 
 
 Dipping Cream. 
 
 Dipping cream made in the following way I find 
 to be the best for general use : Place 8 pounds of 
 Mold A sugar in a copper pan and add enough 
 water to dissolve the sugar so your thermometer will 
 register 230 degrees when it begins to boil, then add 
 8 oz. of glucose and cook to 238° or 239° and pour 
 on a clean marble and leave lay till cool, then turn 
 rapidly and leave, mellow up the same as in cover- 
 ing cream, and when it is cold it is ready for use ; 
 be sure and not use to much water in cooking so 
 to make the cream runny, nor do not cook over to 
 slow a fire. This cream you will find if used fresh 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. 1 3 
 
 will keep well without crystallizing and will be a 
 good cream for crystallizing also. 
 
 Acetic Acid Cream. 
 
 Acetic acid makes a good dipping cream for gloss 
 and firmness, and is made by using one tablespoon- 
 ful to lo pounds of sugar and work it the same as 
 the above. 
 
 Dipping Goods in Cream. 
 
 In dipping goods in cream the most particular 
 point to find out is what cook of cream suits you 
 best for stiffness, such as 239° or 240°, all thermome- 
 ters varies a little, so you will have to get used to 
 the one you have in use. Next be very careful in 
 heating your cream, always use a farina boiler, a 3 
 pint boiler is plenty large enough, fill it half full 
 of cream and stir the cream while it is heating, and 
 when you want to test the heat of the cream stick 
 your finger in the cream and in this way you will 
 soon be able to know what heat of cream works 
 best and keeps best. When you have partly used 
 the cream by dipping add a little fresh cream and 
 in this way your cream will work better and more 
 regular; next use care in the goods you select for 
 dipping, cherries, jellies and sour fruits hardens the 
 cream very soon, use mellow goods such as fresh 
 marshmallows and cream goods, almond paste, and 
 dip all nuts the second time, dip them very thin the 
 first time, then in thicker cream the second time. 
 
14 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 Con Serve Cream. 
 
 Con Serve cream is made by cookiiig up a batch 
 of sugar and stiring a quantity of turned cream in 
 the batch to start it to cream or turn, say take lo 
 pounds of sugar, i^ pounds of glucose and ^ gal- 
 lon of water and cook to 238 degrees, then stir 6 
 pounds of turned cream into the batch and add 
 flavor and run in impressions in starch, and as soon 
 as they are cold cover with chocolate, and in a 
 couple of days they will mellow up and be quite 
 creamy and soft. For making goods to be crystalliz- 
 ed, cook to 243 degrees, this style of cream is most- 
 ly used in large factories where they want to make 
 time. We would advise turned cream on the 
 marble for all purposes, and made fresh often. 
 
 Cocoanut Cream. 
 
 For all cocoanut cream candies it is best to make 
 a cocoanut cream batch, as it will be more regular 
 in your work than if you would simply add cocoa- 
 nut to a plain cream as is commonly done by most 
 workmen. The following way makes a good cream : 
 take 20 pounds of sugar and 2 pounds of glucose, 3 
 quarts of water and place all in a copper pan and 
 cook to 244 degrees, then pour on marble, and 
 when almost cold add 5 cocoanuts, grated fine, then 
 turn to a cream and cover it over with a pan or 
 tub and leave lay till mellow, then need well and 
 it is ready for use for running in starch, in bon-bons 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. I 5 
 
 and for drops for covering with chocolate, and dip- 
 ping in cream. If you want to reduce the cream 
 for making a soft drop for covering with chocolate, 
 add a little simple syrup to the melted cream. 
 
 Chocolate Cream. 
 
 We would recommend chocolate cream to be 
 made on the marble instead of adding chocolate to 
 plain cream, because you will have your batch more 
 regular in flavor and moister and well worked, which 
 is important in chocolate cream. The following is 
 a good way of doing it : Place lo pounds of sugar 
 in a pan and i pound of glucose and 3 pints of 
 water and cook to 233 degrees, then pour on the 
 marble and when cold add 2^^ pounds of plain 
 liquor chocolate (melted), then turn to a cream and 
 leave, mellow up the same as cocoanut cream, when it 
 will be ready for use for running in starch, or by 
 adding butter you can use the above chocolate cream 
 for Italian Creams or Genesees or St. Nicholas by 
 using it in the following way : 
 
 Genesees or Italian Creams. 
 
 Take 5 pounds of the above chocolate cream and 
 place it in a farina boiler and warm up well and 
 add ^ pound of good butter, and one vanilla 
 bean, and mix all well together and pour on heavy 
 wax paper laid on the marble, between iron rods in 
 a mass about ^ inch thick, leave lay over night or 
 
1 6 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 till thoroughly cold, then cut in squares like cara- 
 mels and it is ready for use, or by leaving the 
 squares lay till they are somewhat dry you can crys- 
 tallize them in a crystal cooked to 35 degrees on 
 syrup gauge, or 224° on the thermometer. 
 
 Saint Nicholas Creams. 
 
 St. Nicholas creams can be made out of the above 
 Genesees paste by adding a little simple syrup to the 
 cream when you have it melted, so as to thin it so 
 you can run it in starch (use a large spoon to add 
 the syrup so you will not get the cream to thin by 
 adding to much at one time), leave the creams lay 
 in the starch till they are hard enough to handle, 
 then take them out and dust them off and cover in 
 chocolate coating, have your coating a little stiff or 
 cold so as to make them cover roughly or rugged 
 like small horns sticking out all over the stick or 
 drop, and lay on wax paper till they are cold, when 
 they will be ready for use. 
 
 The above creams make a very nice candy to 
 crystallize by leaving them lay in the starch till 
 they are dry enough to stand the crystal. 
 
 Almond Paste Cream. 
 
 Almond paste cream for hand work or for run- 
 ning in starch or cutting out with lozenge cutter or 
 for dipping, can be made in the following way, 
 which I find will keep in warm weather without 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. \J 
 
 souring or swelling up and cracking open. Take 8 
 pounds of sugar and 2 pounds of glucose and i quart 
 of water, and place in a copper pan and cook to 260 
 degrees, then remove from the fire and add 5 
 pounds of (Henry Heide's) prepared almond paste 
 (cut in fine slices) and set the pan on the fire again 
 long enough to let it come to a boil, then pour on 
 the marble and when partly cool add one ounce of 
 glycerine, and then turn rapidly to a cream (be care- 
 ful not to let it get to cold around the sides before 
 you start to turn it, as it will get very hard, being 
 a very high cook), then cover up the cream the 
 same as described in covering cream and after you 
 have needed it well it is ready for use for hand 
 work, such as almond paste cherries, almond paste 
 scollops, etc. For dipping roll out in sheet and cut 
 out different style of drops with a lozenge cutter, 
 and dip in cream for running in starch, place one 
 pound of the paste in a farina boiler and add one 
 pound of plain cream and warm all together and 
 add a little water to thin it enough to run, then 
 add flavor, such as lemon or orange or vanilla and 
 run in starch, and after the drops are cold they can 
 be dipped in cream or covered in chocolate or crys- 
 tallized. 
 
 Do not pass over these points on cream carelessly 
 if you become enlightened on this subject of cream 
 through this book, it will accomplish more than any 
 other book in print. There are large houses doing 
 business here in eastern cities who have goods re- 
 turned from far west and south that have become 
 
1 8 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 Stale before they were received by the buyer, simply 
 because they spoiled the goods in making. 
 
 How to Handle Starch Work. 
 
 For the benefit of those who are not accustomed 
 to starch work I would like to give a few simple 
 directions for working in a small way : first have lo 
 wooden trays made, size 32 inches long, 16 inches 
 wide, I inch deep, with blocks on corners for feet, 
 then have a starch trough made, 6 feet long, 2 feet 
 wide, I foot deep, with high back and ends, set 
 this trough on legs, then place one of your trays in 
 the trough at a time and fill with starch (have a 
 regular molding starch), after you have the tray full 
 of starch use a wire egg whip to loosen the starch 
 up with, then stroke the board off level with a 
 round stick, now place the tray on a table and 
 make impressions with plaster or wooden molds, set 
 on a stick so as to reach across the board, now 
 have cream runners or funnels of different sizes of 
 holes, say ^ of inch and j4 inch, now melt the 
 cream and flavor and fill your runner and hold it by 
 the handle m the left hand and swing it from the 
 other side with the little finger of the right hand, 
 now catch the stick (which closes the holes in the 
 funnel) with the thumb and first finger of the right 
 hand, now commence running the stick up and down 
 and drop the cream in the impressions in the 
 starch. You may find it very awkward at first, but 
 with practice you will be able to run rapidly in a 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. 1 9 
 
 short time. 1 have often had some very clumsy 
 workmen make good runners in a few days. After 
 your goods are hard enough to handle set your trays 
 in the starch trough, and take the drops out with 
 a wire scoop and have a large sieve in one end of 
 the trough on cross bars, now throw the drops in 
 the sieve and take a brush and dust the starch off 
 the drops, when they will be ready for dipping in 
 cream or covering in chocolate or crystallizing. 
 While your starch is new it will be troublesome to 
 make good impressions, but after working for a few 
 days it will work better, if convenient you had bet- 
 ter put your starch in a dry room to dry out before 
 using. 
 
 How to Handle Chocolate for Covering Goods. 
 
 First I would advise all who do not manufacture 
 chocolate from the Cocoa bean, to use chocolate 
 coating which is ready mixed, as it is sold so close 
 in price that there is nothing to be saved by mix- 
 ing the coating yourself, and you can get it much 
 regular in quality by buying a regular grade ready 
 mixed. 
 
 Chocolate Marble. 
 
 For coating cream goods, etc., have a marble about 
 5 feet long, 3 feet wide, and 3 inches thick, and 
 set it on a wooden frame 2 feet and 2 inches high, 
 and heat one end of the marble by placing a small 
 gas stove under it or a small coil of steam pipe. 
 
20 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 then place lo or 15 pounds of chocolate coating on 
 the warm end of the marble and move it around 
 till the chocolate is melted, then regulate the heat 
 of the stove or steam so as not to get the marble 
 to hot, then scrape the melted chocolate over to 
 the cool end of the marble, then work the choco- 
 late with a palate knife so as to cool it and get it 
 regular in temperature ; now seat yourself in front 
 of the marble, then scrape a small quantity of the 
 chocolate to the front of the marble and coat your 
 goods with a two prong fork and lay them on 
 heavy wax paper (which can be laid on tin sheets 
 12 inches by 14 inches in size), then place the 
 tins of chocolates in a cool place ; if in cold 
 weather you can set them near an open window 
 till they are cold and hard ; if the goods have gray 
 streaks over them or gray bottoms the chocolate is 
 to warm that you are covering them with or the 
 weather is not cold enough to dry them fast 
 enough, in such a case you can place your goods 
 in a refrigerator that is well iced, and when they 
 are dry take them out and pack them in boxes. If 
 they are left to remain in the refrigerator to long 
 after they are dry they will sweat and spoil the 
 gloss on the goods. 
 
 How to cover Chocolate Goods with Streaks 
 over Top 
 
 Goods with an oval or flat top can be covered 
 in the following way : Drop one of the drops in 
 the chocolate and pull the chocolate up over the 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. 21 
 
 top of the drops with a fork, and then run the 
 fork under the bottom of the drop, then shake the 
 fork and strike bottom on the marble so as to run 
 the chocolate smooth on top, now hold the fork 
 in the right hand and slide the drops off fon the 
 wax paper) of the fork with the first finger of the 
 left hand, bringing the. finger up over the top of 
 the drop, leaving a streak on the goods. 
 
 Round Chocolates with Streaks. 
 
 Round goods can be coated with the hand by 
 rolling the drop in the chocolate so as to cover it, 
 then pick the drops up with the thumb and mid- 
 dle finger, and balance it on the middle finger, 
 shaking it at the same time so as to get it smooth 
 and drop it on wax paper and bring the finger up 
 over the drop so as to leave one streak. After 
 practicing this way of dropping the drop, you can 
 make time and can have your goods smooth with 
 only one mark on the goods, which will be the 
 streak, if the weather is very cold you will have to 
 keep the marble a little warm all over so the 
 chocolate will not chill to soon to work smooth. 
 
 Chocolates with Curl on Top. 
 
 Round goods with a curl or ring on top can be 
 coated in the following way : First add a little 
 more fine lozenge sugar to the chocolate to stiffen 
 it or make it stand up better, work the chocolate 
 well so as to get the sugar well worked through, 
 now coat your drop with the hand and run the 
 
22 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 finger around the top of the drop leaving a curl 
 or ring coming up to a point. 
 
 How to keep Chocolate Goods during Warm Weather. 
 
 All chocolate goods ought to be kept in a cool 
 dry place during warm weather, not in a refrigera- 
 tor or ice vault, as that would be to cold for the 
 goods, as they would sweat when they would be 
 brought into the store for sale, and to keep them 
 in a moist place they will get moldy. A cool dry 
 cellar is the proper place to keep all chocolate 
 goods during warm weather. The best way is to 
 have very few chocolate goods on hand during 
 warm weather. By making small quantities on the 
 plan described in small batches of cream goods, 
 your goods will give the best satisfaction. 
 
 Farina Boiler for Chocolate Work. 
 
 The farina boiler is found very serviceable for 
 chocolate work to keep a supply of melted choco- 
 late on hand, especially where you are using large 
 quantities in a day. Have a 3 or 4 gallon farina 
 boiler made out of heavy block tin and then part- 
 ly fill the bottom pan vvith water, then break up 
 some chocolate coating and fill the top pan with 
 the coating and set in the water, and set on a fire 
 to melt, and when melted you can dip the choco- 
 late out on the marble as you want to use it, you 
 will find this a good way of working in the 
 summer time when you do not want to heat up 
 the marble. 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. 23 
 
 List of Chocolate Goods for Retail Store. 
 
 The following list of goods will make a nice 
 retail stock, as some of the flavors can be used in 
 two grades of goods. 
 
 Chocolate covered French Cherries (plain). 
 
 " " Grenoble half Walnuts (plain). 
 
 ** " Almond Nougateens. 
 
 " " Apricot Jellies. 
 
 " " Vanilla Cream Drops. 
 
 " " Vanilla Cream Drops with Walnuts on top. 
 
 " " Vanilla Cream Drops with Pecan on top. 
 
 ,* *' Orange Cream Drops. 
 
 " " Orange Cream Drops with Walnuts on top. 
 
 " " Almond Paste Drops with split Almond on top. 
 
 " " Cocoanut Cream Drops. 
 
 " " Cocoanut Cream Drops with grated Lemon Rind. 
 
 " " Raspberry Cream Drops flavored with 
 
 Raspberry Jam. 
 
 '* " Strawberry Cream Drops flavored with 
 
 Strawberry Jam- 
 St. Nicholas (long). 
 
 " " St. Nicholas (cresent shape). 
 
 " " French Nougat. 
 
 " " Cream Nougat. 
 
 " " Caramels. 
 
 " " Genesee Squares. 
 
 " " Jim Crows. 
 
 " " Praline Chocolates. 
 
 " " Marshmallows. 
 
 Chocolate Wafers — large and small. 
 Frosted Opera Wafers. 
 
24 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 Notes on Chocolates. 
 
 Do not cover cream cherries or cream walnuts 
 with chocolate, as the cream around the cherries 
 or walnut will soon get very hard, cover them 
 plain. Caramels covered with chocolate should be 
 extra rich and very soft, a thin piece of caramel 
 rolled round like a lead pencil, and about 2^ 
 inches long, and covered with chocolate makes a 
 nice piece to lay on top of a box of mixtures. 
 
 For St. Nicholas, make a chocolate cream the 
 same as for Genesees or Italian Creams as described 
 in hints on cream, and run the cream in starch 
 long and crescent shape. Jim Crows are made by 
 mixing chopped roasted almonds and sweet choco- 
 late together, and add more sugar to stiffen the paste 
 and roll out in little sticks about i^ inches long, 
 and lay on wax paper and cool off the same as 
 cream chocolate. Praline chocolates are made by 
 grinding roasted almonds to a smooth paste and mixing 
 with sweet chocolate and fine sugar, and rolled in 
 balls and covered in chocolate coating, y^ and y^ 
 pound boxes of chocolate wafers put up in neat 
 boxes and tied with ribbon makes a very saleable 
 package. Also ^ and }i boxes of covered cara- 
 mels is a good package for rapid selling. All 
 chocolate goods ought to be covered fresh as often 
 as possible, as chocolate will become a little dull 
 during changeable weather. You can keep almond 
 nougateens, roasted almonds, marshmellows, and 
 French nougat and all hard goods in tin cans and 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. 2$ 
 
 cover a few of them fresh as you want to use 
 them, in this way you can always have a bright 
 fresh looking stock of goods. 
 
 Roasted or Burnt Nuts. 
 
 Jordan roasted almonds, burnt almonds, burnt 
 peanuts, are a line of candies which is found in 
 every confectionery in the United States, yet we 
 find very few that are nice or fit for any use, 
 mostly they are hard, dried out like a rock, faded 
 or sticky, especially in warm weather. Now they 
 should all be crisp, bright in color and dry, not 
 loaded down with sugar in large lumps. If the 
 following direction is followed carefully we can have 
 goods that will keep for a long time even in bad 
 weather, and will be eatable and saleable. First 
 have a ^/lee^ iron roaster made in a cylinder shape 
 (like one joint of a stove pipe) 12 inches in dia- 
 meter, close both ends with sheet iron, having small 
 holes punched in the ends to leave the steam and 
 smoke escape, leave a door in the side and run an 
 iron rod ^ inch thick through the cylinder for a 
 bearing, and place a crank on one end of the rod 
 to turn it with ; have a sheet iron frame to rest 
 it on, make the frame with sides and ends, leaving 
 the top and bottom open. Now put 5 pounds of 
 almonds in the roaster and set it on the candy 
 furnace and turn the roaster till the nuts are slightly 
 roasted, then remove from the fire and continue to 
 turn the roaster for a few minutes, as the almonds 
 3 
 
26 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 will have heat enough to finish roasting them, turn 
 them out in a sieve and cover them to keep them 
 warm ; now have lo pounds of sugar cooked to a 
 good syrup and colored a deep red, then take a 
 copper pan and put one pint dipper full of the 
 syrup in the pan and cook to a good crack ; now 
 add vanilla flavor and 2 ounces of plain chocolate 
 (which you have shaved fine) and stir through the 
 sugar quickly, then throw the almonds in and stir 
 rapidly till the sugar is slightly turned, then take 
 the pan from the fire and set it on the top of an 
 open barrel in a sloping shape and continue to run 
 your paddle under the almonds, and throw them up 
 on the side of the pan and let them fall back to the 
 bottom of the pan till they are turned enough to 
 seperate. Avoid stiring as much as possible, as too 
 much stiring makes the almonds sugary and gray. 
 Now when they have fully turned, throw them out 
 into a sieve, then place the pan on the fire and add 
 more syrup, (do not add too much syrup at each 
 cook, as the almonds will stick together) and cook 
 the same way, and add the almonds on the fire the 
 same way, not forgetting to add 2 ounces of choco- 
 late each cook) if you have not used too much syrup 
 at each cook, there will not be any loose sugar 
 come off of the almonds, but will be crisp and a 
 bright color). When you have got the almonds large 
 enough to suit you, take a clean copper pan and 
 add enough thick melted gum arabic to coat your 
 batch of almonds, and warm your gum up over the 
 fire, then add the almonds and set the pan on the 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. 2/ 
 
 fire one minute, istiring rapidly, then throw them out 
 on the marble, and when they are cold they should 
 be quite dry if your gum was thick enough, which 
 is one of the main points, as thin gum will wash 
 them and soak into the sugar and leave the almonds 
 dull. After they are thoroughly dry, put them in 
 tin cans or buckets and keep them till you want to 
 use them. In the summer time you can use a little 
 shellac after the gum is dry so as to keep them 
 much better. In cold weather half gum and half 
 glucose made hot makes a good coating. 
 
 I recommend the sheet iron roaster, as you can 
 get a good, regular roast on the almonds, and I 
 think it an improvement over the old way of roast- 
 ing in sugar. A good Jordan roasted almonds ought 
 not to be very heavy coated, i^ pounds of sugar to 
 I pound of almonds make a good almond. Burnt 
 almonds can be heavier, say i pound of Valencia 
 almonds to 2 pounds of sugar. 
 
 Burnt Peanuts 
 
 may be worked different, especially during dry, cool 
 weather, by taking 5 pounds of peanuts and roast 
 them in the roaster to a light brown color, then 
 throw in a sieve and rub the thin shell or skin off 
 of the nut, then place 3 pounds of sugar and one 
 pint of water in a copper pan and cook to a crack, 
 then remove from the fire and throw the peanuts 
 into the sugar and stir rapidly till the sugar turns, 
 then place the pan on the fire and stir the peanuts 
 
28 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 till the sugar melts sufficient to make the peanuts 
 glossy, then turn them out on the marble and spread 
 out to cool off, then sepatate a little and put in tin 
 buckets with lid on and keep them till you wish to 
 use them. 
 
 Cocoanut Candies. 
 
 Under the head of cocoannt candies we will be 
 obliged to bring our remarks down to a few points, 
 as cocoanut covers such an extensive scope in the 
 candy business. 
 
 First, we would like to call confectioners attention 
 to desiccated cocoanut, as there seems to be some 
 prejudices against the use of it, and for that reason 
 I think it proper to give you my views on it. I 
 would say I can recommend the use of it in the 
 candy business, first, because it is so handy for ready 
 use, and if you have a good quality which is made 
 from good selected nuts which simply has the moist- 
 ure evaporated from it, and still remains spungy and 
 sweet, you will be of the same opinion after you 
 become accustomed to using it, but if you have 
 cocoauut that has been baked till it is as dry as a 
 chip and has all kind of cocoanuts mixed together, 
 you will soon become dissatisfied with the use of it. 
 Then you will find it is as cheap as opening fresh 
 cocoanuts, owing to the losses in spoiled cocoanuts. 
 
 I recommend the use of it for all purposes, and 
 the only difference you will find between it and the 
 fresh, is, it has lost its moisture, but, it being of a 
 
NOTES ON CANDY 
 
 29 
 
 oiley or buttery nature it retains its flavor, and by 
 adding it to a batch of sugar before the batch is 
 cooked too high, it will become moist and will cook 
 up like fresh cocoanut, or if you want to add some 
 to a cream batch, and you want moist cocoanut you 
 can simply put the cocoanut into a pan and dip 
 your hand in water and work through the cocoa- 
 nut till you have it slightly dampened, then let it 
 sit a few minutes, and it will become just moist 
 enough for proper use, and when you want to use 
 it for high cooked candies, it will work better than 
 fresh cocoanut. 
 
 Now I cannot recommend all desiccated cocoanut, 
 as there is a great deal of adulterated cocoanut on 
 the market, full of starch and other substance which 
 will spoil most any thing you put it in. 
 
 Soft Cocoanut Candies. 
 
 The following formula will work satisfactory for 
 soft cocoanut goods : Place 8 pounds of sugar in a 
 copper pan and add ^ gallon of water and 12 
 pounds of glucose, and place pan on the fire and let 
 come to a boil, and when the sugar is thoroughly 
 dissolved add 10 pounds of No. i desiccated 
 cocoanut and cook all to a soft ball (stiring all the 
 time), then add flavor of lemon or vanilla and re- 
 move the pan from the fire, and when the batch is 
 partly cool it can he used for soft cocoanut or 
 cocoanut steeples or cocoanut balls for dipping in 
 cream, or by cooking the same batch a little higher 
 
30 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 it can be used for Jap cocoaniit by spreading out 
 on the marble, and roll out in a sheet ^ inch thick, 
 and when cold cut in squares, and roll in granulated 
 sugar when it is ready for use. For soft molasses cocoa- 
 nut, take one gallon of molasses and 5 pounds of 
 glucose, and add 6 pounds of desiccated cocoanut 
 and cook to a soft ball. For maple cocoanut cook 
 the same batch a little higher and spread out thin 
 on the marble and cut in 5 cent pieces, or you can 
 make molasses Jap or cocoanut strip out of it by 
 working in the same as the above batch. 
 
 High Cooked Cocoanut. 
 
 High cooked cocoanut candies such as roasted 
 cocoanut, take 8 pounds of white sugar and place 
 it in a copper pan, and add 4 pounds of glucose 
 and 3 pints of water, and cook to 310 degrees, 
 then remove from fire and add 8 pounds of long 
 shreded cocoanut and a little oil of lemon, and 
 scrape out on marble and shape up in a batch about 
 2 inches thick and cut in }^ pound bars. 
 
 Butter Cocoanut. 
 
 Butter cocoanut can be made by placing 6 pounds 
 of sugar in a copper pan, and add 3 pounds of 
 glucose and cook to 310°, and add i pound of but- 
 ter and 3 pounds of shreded cocoanut and spread 
 out on marble in a thin sheet, and cut in small 
 squares with a horehound cutter, and when cold it 
 is ready for use. 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. 3 1 
 
 Soft Candies. 
 
 In soft candies our remarks will be brought down 
 to one particular point, that is to avoid getting soft 
 goods a little beyond the soft point, when it is 
 neither soft nor crisp, but tough and anything but 
 good, by using care in this one point is the most 
 necessary thing to do to get good saleable goods. 
 For caramels and soft cocoanut goods, etc., it is 
 best to set your batch off the fire till you have 
 thoroughly tried the batch by spreading a little of 
 the candy on a cold marble, and let it get cold, 
 so you can know just where you are, and for soft 
 molasses candies, such as soft yellow jack or soft 
 molasses walnut candy, always use a thermometer 
 and cook to 261 or 262 degrees. You may think 
 this is very soft for pulling, but if you pull the 
 batch till it is thoroughly cold, it will be light, 
 spongy and soft, just nice for good eating. Some 
 may prefer crisp molasses candies, but those who 
 want soft goods, it will not do to give them tough 
 goods. One more point is to use enough glucose 
 to enable you to thoroughly stir your batches and 
 stand a low cook without turning, and enough glu- 
 cose to allow you to add plenty of nuts in nut 
 batches, and at the same time you can use more 
 cream or butter to richen the batch which the glu- 
 cose has reduced in richness, for example we will 
 take caramels. 
 
32 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 Caramels. 
 
 Take 12 pounds of sugar and 8 pounds of glu- 
 cose and 12 quarts of rich cream, ^ pound of 
 butter. Place the sugar and glucose in a copper 
 pan, and one quart of cream, and cook till the 
 batch gets a little thick, then add 2 quarts more 
 of cream and cook till it thickens, and continue 
 in this way till you have added all the cream, then 
 add the butter and continue cooking and stiring 
 till you have the batch to the stiffness you wish it, 
 which you can find out by removing your batch 
 from the fire and spread a little very thin on a 
 cold marble with a knife, and when thoroughly cold 
 try it, and if hard enough to suit you, then pour the 
 batch on marble between ^ inch iron rods and when 
 quite cold cut it and wrap in wax paper, or if 
 you wish to use them unwrapped you can use 4 
 ounces of parafifine to a 20 pound batch which will 
 dry them off a little so you can handle them bet- 
 ter. For greasing the marble for caramels and taf- 
 fies it is best to use cocoa butter, as it will not 
 taste on the goods. 
 
 Hard Candy. 
 
 Hard, or clear candy comes into the general stock 
 in the candy business more than any other line of 
 goods, and for this reason we may watch it a lit- 
 tle closer. There are two points we are always try- 
 ing to obtain, that is to have our goods dry and 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. 33 
 
 brightness in color, our great difficulty is to get 
 the right cook and the amount of cream tartar or 
 glucose to use so as to have the above effect. 
 First we find that by using enough cream tartar to 
 keep the goods from turning they will become 
 sticky and with too much cream tartar they will 
 darken in color when you get an extra high cook 
 on, and we find the same trouble with using glu- 
 cose, and yet I find by using a very small quan- 
 tity of glucose it will not color the high cook 
 batch as much as cream tartar will, and will remain 
 a little dryer. One more important point we might 
 mention here is to be careful about throwing too 
 much water into a batch of sugar which alone will 
 spoil the candy if you have your batch drowned 
 to start with. Then the fire comes next. A slow 
 fire will simmer or stew a batch and spoil it before 
 you have it cooked, and again a very quick fire 
 and small allowance of water will turn out your 
 batch too dry or a little grainy unless you have a 
 large quantity of glucose or cream tartar in it. So we 
 find we need care all around to have our work 
 satisfactory. In the following directions 1 will try 
 to give you the right course to follow in clear 
 candies. 
 
 Lime Drops. 
 
 I choose lime drops for an example, as there is 
 more trouble to get a good color on them than 
 any other drop. 1 find that the following will be 
 just right if you do everything just so. 
 
34 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 Take 20 pounds of Mold A sugar and place it in 
 a clean copper pan and add ^ pound of glucose, 
 then add enough water to dissolve the sugar so your 
 thermometer will register 230 degrees. When the 
 batch begins to boil have a good fire and cook to 
 336 degrees. Now pour out on the marble slab and 
 add a little blue color, and when it has cooled a lit- 
 tle add 4^ ounces of powdered citric acid or 4 
 ounces of tartaric acid, then add i ounce of good 
 oil of lime and keep turning the batch up while it 
 is warm so as to get the ingredients well mixed 
 while the batch is hot. Do not work it after it gets 
 cold as that spoils the clearness and makes it 
 streaky. Now run through the machine while quite 
 warm so as to keep them clear and bright, you will 
 find a high cook makes the batch a little yellow, but 
 the blue color put in the yellow batch makes a good 
 green (as it is the same as mixing blue and yellow 
 color to get a green). By using green color in a 
 high cook batch it makes a muddy dull color. So 
 you will find the blue works best. In warm weather 
 I find it is necessary to cook to 341 or 342 degrees. 
 The above form will be just right for all clear drops 
 and clear stick candy, excepting the acid and color. 
 
 Crisp Candies. 
 
 Crisp candies are a very desirable candy in all 
 styles, and we cannot pass over it without insisting 
 on having it very crisp and glossy. In order to 
 obtain this special feature it will be necessary to 
 
NOTES ON CANDY 
 
 35 
 
 have your cook just right, no more or no less. We 
 will place such as Opera Chips, Opera Curls, Shaven 
 Twist, Jack Straws, Butter Cups, Crimps, etc., 
 under this head. First we want a dry and high 
 cooked batch and yet not too dry to spin nicely. 
 The main point is to get your cook high enough 
 to be glossy, and next, to be able to work it hot 
 and quick, and here I must insist on your wearing 
 gloves. 
 
 The use of Gloves. 
 
 I imagine I can see some of the older workmen 
 smile when I recommend the use of gloves, but if 
 we could watch these same workmen handle a hot 
 batch, we would find that they have cooled their 
 batch off so they can handle it with the bare hands, 
 and the next thing they do they will cook their 
 batch lower so they can work it when it is partly 
 cool. Now provide yourself with a good pair of 
 buckskin gloves and wear them till you become 
 accustomed to using them, then you can work a 
 hot batch while it is hot, and take a hold of it 
 quickly and work rapidly which is the only way to 
 get nice crisp goods such as 
 
 Opera Chips. 
 
 Opera chips which are very popular and show^y 
 goods, being glossy and thin and light in weight. 
 They are made by taking lo pounds of sugar and 
 ^ pound of glucose and water enough to dissolve 
 
36 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 the sugar and cook to 335 degrees, and just before 
 removing from the fire add 2 ounces of glucose 
 and pour on marble, and as soon as it is cool 
 enough to hold together pull it (with gloves) on 
 the hook rapidly and add flavor, and when well 
 pulled, twist the air out and shape it out in a very 
 flat batch on a warm table, and start at one end 
 of it to spin or stretch it out in a very thin strip 
 like a ribbon, one inch wide and as thin as paper, 
 and after you have all spun out, cut in sticks 5 
 inches long and put in tin cans till you wish to 
 use it. By pulling or stretching rapidly you will 
 be able to get it very thin and so light in weight 
 that one pound will fill a 5 pound box when cut. 
 By stretching all crisp candies in the above way 
 you will be able to work them better than if you 
 would try to spin them, and with practice you can 
 work extra high cooks by wearing gloves and work- 
 ing rapidly. The 2 ounces of glucose you add just 
 before pouring on marble will have the eff"ect of 
 making the batch spin or stretch better and 
 smoother. 
 
 Jellies. 
 
 i will give a few sly hints on jellies, as I think 
 we all need a little light on them, and they make 
 a very nice confection when properly made. Apple, 
 quince and apricot are the most generaly used in 
 the candy business. First we want to avoid getting 
 a hard tough jelly. First take good greenings or 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. 37 
 
 pippin apples, or wliite bell-flower apples, and wash 
 and cut your apples up fine and place them in a 
 clean copper pan and add enough water to cover 
 the apples, then boil till they are soft (avoid cook- 
 ing them too long as they become too dry and 
 mushy), then strain or press the juice from the 
 apples, now take 7 pounds of sugar and ^ pound 
 of glucose and cook to a good jelly, stirring all 
 the time, avoid cooking to high as the jelly will 
 become tough and runny if you cook it a little too 
 much, and will not crystallize very good. Try a 
 little in cold water and when it is cooked enough 
 to form a short jelly it is done; then remove 
 from fire and color and flavor, lemon, orange, 
 rose or vanilla, and run in impressions in starch ; 
 have you starch well dried, as damp starch will 
 stick to the jellies and if your cook is too low the 
 jellies will take up the starch. You can cook jellies 
 with a thermometer by tacking the thermometer on 
 a paddle and then you can stir your batch and use 
 your themoneter at the same time, 240° is a good 
 cook for a nice rich juice, but if your juice is thin 
 you will be oblige to cook a little higher, which you 
 can soon tell after you have made one or two cooks 
 or batches. Avoid leaving any of your juice remain 
 over night unworked up as it is not so good after 
 standing so long. After your jellies have laid in 
 starch over night take them out and brush the 
 starch off well and place a few at a time in a 
 round bottom pan and dip your hands in thin syrup 
 
38 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 and run though the jellies till they are a little sticky 
 then throw them in granulated sugar and sieve them 
 out and lay on trays to dry, set them with tops up, 
 it is best to leave them lay on trays till the next 
 morning if the weather is dry; then set them in 
 crystal pans and cook a high crystal, say 36^° on 
 syrup gauge and let the (Crystal stand one hour to 
 cool off a little, then put it on the jellies and set 
 them in a drying room, so as to keep the crystal 
 warm, and after they have remained in the dry- 
 ing room 4 or 5 hours, or till you see they have 
 got a good crystal, then drain off the syrup and 
 when they are partly dry knock them out and lay 
 them on trays to dry, when they are ready for 
 boxing. 
 
 You can make a very nice jelly for covering 
 with chocolate by adding strawberry jam to the 
 apple juice and cook a little lower as you will not 
 have to crystallize them. 
 
 duince Jellies. 
 
 You will find the juice of quinces to be a little 
 stronger than apple juice so you will have to use 
 more sugar, say one gallon of quince juice and 9 
 pounds of sugar and i pound of glucose, and work 
 the same as apple. Quince is mostly liked covered 
 with chocolate, it is also very nice with a little 
 cocoanut cooked with it. 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. 39 
 
 Apricot Jellies. 
 
 Apricot jellies is mostly made from the canned 
 pulp and is made in the following way : Take 10 
 pound of apricot pulp and rub it through a sieve 
 into a clean copper pan and add 10 pounds of 
 sugar and cook over a slow fire, stirring it all the 
 time, and do not let it come to a boil, continue 
 to simmer it in this way till it gets quite short 
 when you drop it off the paddle, then remove from 
 the fire and run in dry starch and dust over the 
 top of the drops with the starch, and leave them 
 in a dry place till there is a fine crust forms on 
 the outside of the drops or jellies, then they may 
 be crystallized over night in a crystal cooked to 
 35° on syrup gauge, or they can be dipped in 
 cream and then crystallized or covered in chocolate. 
 
 Basin Work. 
 
 Basin work at the present day has become a very 
 difficult task, especially in very fine work, such as 
 fine Jordan sugar coated almonds with a very thin 
 coat. Extra thin coats require extra care so as to 
 get them smooth and yet keep from spotting, and 
 only those who have continual practice are the only 
 ones who can overcome these difficulties. 
 
 Smooth Almonds. 
 
 Take 10 pounds picked Jordan almonds and brush 
 the dust ofT well and place in the basin and add 
 a little melted gum, and add a little flavor and 
 
40 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 work them till they are dry, then add a little 
 more gum and work till dry then place the almonds, 
 in the dry room on trays till they are quite dry, 
 then place them in the basin, having heat on basin 
 and have 8 pounds of sugar cooked to a syrup of 
 38 degrees on syrup guage or so it will form a 
 good thread by trying it between the thumb and 
 fingei, if this syrup is too thick it will make your 
 almonds too rough for the first coat, and if too 
 thin it will make too clear a coat and will not 
 sugar or turn soon enough, and will cause the 
 almonds to spot. You will be able to notice this 
 after you make one or two batches. After you 
 have your syrup cooked keep it quite warm and 
 add a small quantity at first (so as not to wash 
 the gum off the almonds), and when that has 
 sugared, continue to add the syrup as fast as it 
 sugars, not allowing your aim nds to work too long, 
 or it will wear the points. After you have a good 
 coat or well covered up, place them in the dry 
 room, and later in the day get one more light 
 coat on with a trifle thinner syrup (with flavor) 
 which ought to leave your almonds quite smooth. 
 Now dry them off again in the dry room and then 
 cool them off and place them in the basin again 
 and have a little thinner syrup cold (if you wish 
 to color add color) and add to the almonds, work- 
 ing them cold, and when you have a very thin 
 coat on take them out and cover them up in trays 
 for 3 or 4 hours, then have your basin cleaned 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. 4 1 
 
 and waxed lightly with paraffine and beeswax by 
 heating the wax and sprinkling on the pan, and 
 when the wax is quite cold put the almonds in 
 and work them till they have a fine gloss, adding 
 a little powdered soapstone while they are work- 
 ing. If the wax is not cold the almonds will take 
 up too much wax and will not glaze good. 
 
 Clear Basin Goods. 
 
 Clear goods are made by placing 20 pounds of 
 sugar and ^ teaspoonful of cream tartar and water 
 in a copper pan and cook to a good crack, and 
 pour on marble, and when cold enough to handle 
 flavor and pull the batch partly on the hook, then run 
 through drop machine (small round drop machine) 
 and place in basin and have a little heat on the 
 pan and add a little glucose (which you have 
 thinned a little, not too thin, as it won't hold) and 
 add enough pulverized sugar to dry the glucose, 
 then add more glucose and more sugar till they are 
 large enough, then remove from basin and wax the 
 basin the same as for smooth almonds and then 
 place the drops in the basin and add powdered 
 soapstone and work till they are glossy. Don't have 
 your drops too dry and sugary when you stop add- 
 ing the glucose, as they will not take the wax so 
 well. 
 
42 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 Cream Basin Work. 
 
 Cream almonds, filberts and black American wal- 
 nuts come under the above head, and we will choose 
 cream almonds for a subject. Take 5 pounds of 
 almonds, roast lightly, then place 2 pounds of sugar 
 in a copper pan and add water, and cook to 242 
 degrees, then throw the almonds into the sugar and 
 turn rapidly, and when they have turned remove 
 from the fire and throw the almonds into a sieve 
 and cook 2 more pounds of sugar to 250 degrees, 
 then remove from fire and add almonds and turn 
 rapidly, and when turned throw into a sieve and 
 place 10 or 12 pounds of sugar in a clean pan, 
 and ^ gallon of water, y^ teaspoonful of cream 
 tartar, and cook to 246 degrees, then place the 
 almonds in the basin and add a little syrup slowly, 
 and work the basin till the sugar turns (having 
 heat on basin) then add more syrup and flavor and 
 continue to work the basin till the sugar is well 
 turned, and then add more syrup and flavor, and when 
 you have syrup on take them from basin before they 
 get too dry, as they will turn the crystal if too dusty 
 with sugar, and when they are cold place them in 
 crystal pans, and crystal over night in a crystal 
 cooked to 35 degrees on syrup guage, in the morn- 
 ing you can drain them off, and when they are 
 dry they are ready for use. Filberts are worked 
 the same way as the almonds, and walnuts the same, 
 omitting the roasting. For No. i Jordan cream 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. 43 
 
 almonds, blanch the almonds and dry them and 
 coat them lightly and flavor strong with vanilla and 
 crystallize the same as above. 
 
 Pulled Cream Candies. 
 
 For pulled cream candies, such as mint, cream 
 plait, and vanilla cream, and rose, lemon, choco- 
 late, and orange: Take 15 pounds of sugar and 
 2 pounds of glucose and water enough to dissolve 
 the sugar and cook the batch to 262 degrees, pour 
 it on a cold greased marble, and when cool enough 
 to handle put it on the hook and pull it till it is 
 quite cold, then add flavor and when you have the 
 flavor well pulled through the batch take it from 
 the hook and pull out in bars or plait and leave 
 lay on wax paper till it turns, which will soon 
 take place if you have pulled it enough, and this 
 batch ought to be quite soft if you have not cooked 
 higher than 262 degrees. You can wrap it in wax 
 paper to pile on the counter or put it in glass jars. 
 
 Crystallizing. 
 
 In the following remarks we will give a few hints 
 on crystallizing candies for a retail confectionery. 
 For bon-bons or dipped cream goods and cut 
 creams, place 20 or 30 pounds of best A sugar or 
 Mold A sugar in a copper pan and add enough 
 water to thoroughly dissolve the sugar or enough 
 water to start your batch to boiling at 31 degrees 
 
44 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 on syrup gauge, or 220 degrees on thermometer, 
 then cook to 35 degrees on syrup gauge or 2245^ 
 degrees on thermometer, then set to one side till 
 almost cool, then place one layer of goods in crys- 
 tal pans and take a 2 quart dipper and pour the 
 crystal syrup over the goods till they are well cov- 
 ered with the syrup, then set the pans on a table 
 till morning, when you can drain off the syrup and 
 set the pans on their sides in a trough lined with 
 tin and let them remain this way for 3 or 4 hours 
 or till the syrup has thoroughly drained off and 
 the goods are dry, when they will be ready for use. 
 Small batches like the above can be cooked about 
 1 o'clock in the afternoon and it will be about cool 
 enough by 6 o'clock to put on cream goods, such 
 as are made out of a dry cream. For extra soft 
 or runny cream you will have to let your crystal 
 get a little cooler before putting it on the goods ; 
 it is best to put crystal on goods a little warm 
 (those that will stand it), as it takes hold of the 
 goods sooner and makes a brighter crystal ; and 
 most all cream goods will stand a warm crystal if 
 your cream is made right ; it will not hurt the 
 goods if the syrup warms them enoug'h to make 
 them soft as they will set and be all right when the 
 syrup and goods become cold. It will not be 
 necessary to put the goods in a dry room while 
 crystallizing if your cook is not higher than 35 or 
 35^ degrees, but if your cook is 36 or 37 degrees, 
 on syrup gauge, it is best to put the goods in a 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. 45 
 
 warm place during cool weather, as the crystal will turn 
 or get grainy when the syrup gets cold. For light 
 crystal cook to 34 or 34}^ degrees, for gum drops 
 to 35)^ degrees, and set in a moderate temperature 
 of about 60 degrees. For jellies (see apple jellies) 
 in this book. To soften French fruits or almond 
 paste bon-bons, cook a syrup to 32 degrees on syrup 
 gauge and put it on the goods warm and let set 
 for two days when they ought to be soft and a 
 light crystal formed on the goods. 
 
 All crystal syrup ought to be used up for other 
 work as much as possible, as new syrup is always 
 best for good crystallizing, and by using a little care 
 you can always keep your syrup used up by adding 
 a little in most any kind of a batch, such as hard 
 candy or cream for covering with chocolate or col- 
 ored bon-bons, etc. 
 
 Gum Work. 
 
 In the following we will give you a good gum 
 drop, and if you wish it cheaper you can add more 
 glucose and sugar. Take 12 pounds of good gum 
 arable (or senagol gum) and grind fine and place 
 in a pan and add 3 gallons of water, and place 
 on slow fire and stir till the gum is dissolved, 
 then strain through a fine sieve into a clean cop- 
 per pan (or steam jacket kettle) and add 8 pounds 
 of sugar and i pound of glucose and place on fire 
 and stir rapidly so as to keep the batch from burn- 
 ing on the bottom of the pan, and have your fire 
 
46 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 hot enough to bring the batch to a boil so as to 
 boil it clear and continue to stir till it is thick 
 enough to drop off the paddle like jelly, allowing 
 the fire to become more moderate. Then place the 
 pan in a steam bath. Make the bath by taking a 
 copper pan and fill it half full of water and place 
 it on a slow fire, and set the pan with the batch 
 in on the pan of water and let it steam for 2 or 
 3 hours to thoroughly clear up, then remove the 
 thick scum on top and flavor and run or drop it 
 in impressions in extra dry starch, and when cold 
 place in dry room for 2 or 3 days, then, if hard 
 enough, take out and dust the starch off well and 
 place in pans and crystal over night in a crystal 
 cooked to 35^ degrees on syrup gauge. Leave 
 the pans while crystallizing in a moderate place. 
 In the morning drain the crystal syrup off of the 
 drops and when partly dry knock out and pick 
 them apart and leave on trays till dry, when they 
 will be ready for use. 
 
 Gum "Wafers. 
 
 A good gum wafer can be made by taking 10 
 pounds of gum and 8 pounds of sugar and 2 
 pounds of glucose and work the batch the same 
 as gum drops, and run in thin wafer impressions 
 in starch and sit in dry room, and when they are 
 dry enough to handle, take them out of the dry 
 room and take 5 pounds of the wafers out of tlie 
 starch and dust them off and place them in a 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. 4/ 
 
 clean copper pan, and dip your hand in good clean 
 warm lard and run your hand through the wafers 
 till they are quite bright, then take a clean cloth or 
 paper and rub it through the wafers till it has ab- 
 sorbed the most of the lard, and leave the wafers 
 clean and glossy, when they will be ready for use. 
 You can leave the balance of the batch remain in 
 the starch till you want to use them, when you can 
 handle them the same way as the above. 
 
 Marshmallows. 
 
 Marshmallows are made many ways, from many 
 different ingredients, but I find that after all 
 there is nothing like the pure marshmallow drops 
 made from gum arabic (or Senogal gum), the follow- 
 ing is a very good drop for summer or winter: 
 Take 20 pounds of gum and grind it fine and place 
 it in a clean pan and add 3 gallons of water and 
 place on fire or steam pan and stir till it is melted, 
 then add 15 pounds of glucose and mix it with the 
 gum, then strain through a number 30 sieve into a 
 steam marshmallow mixer and add 20 pounds of 
 white sugar, which is a little moist, then start the 
 beater slowly and work it till the sugar is dissolved 
 (having a little heat on the pan) then have the 
 whites of 8 dozen of fresh eggs beaten stiff and add 
 them to the batch, then start your machine on full 
 speed and beat the batch up light, being careful not 
 to beat any more than just light, as it will fall if you 
 
48 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 work it till it gets quite stiff, now add 3 ounces of 
 powdered vanilla bean and when it is mixed through 
 the batch well then add i quart of glycerine. Just 
 work it well through as it is liable to make your 
 batch fall if you work it too much. Now remove 
 your beater and dip the paste out into marshmallow 
 droppers and drop it in impressions in clean, dry 
 starch, and set in room where they will not be sub- 
 ject to steam from cooking batches, not in a warm 
 room, but a moderate room, then let them stand one 
 day and a half or two days, and if somewhat dry 
 you can take them out of the starch and dust them 
 off well and throw one layer of the drops in deep 
 trays and cover over with fine sugar, then throw 
 in one more layer of marshmallow drops and sugar, 
 and continue in this way till you have your batch 
 all in sugar. Now cover the trays up by setting 
 one on top of each other and let set this way five 
 or six hours till the drops moisten on the outside 
 enough to catch the sugar, then take them out and 
 pack them in the boxes ; be sure your starch is 
 quite dry as the drops will catch enough starch to 
 crust them on the bottom. If the starch is a little 
 moist use dry flavor, as the alcohol in extract will 
 act on the eggs and give them a bad taste and 
 odor, if your drop crusts too much you can use 
 less sugar, but in cold, weather you can use more 
 sugar. If you want to cheapen this drop add more 
 glucose and more eggs. 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. 49 
 
 This batch can be beaten by hand in a steam 
 bath, or it can be beaten up in a patent ice cream 
 freezer by putting hot water in the tub around the 
 can. 
 
 Lozenges. 
 
 Lozenges is one of the branches of the confection- 
 ery business which is not worked on in many retail 
 confectionerys, but we will give it a brief outlining 
 for the benefit of those who wish it. Take 4 ounces 
 of gun tragacanth and place it in an earthen or 
 stone bowl, and add 2)^ pints of water and let 
 stand over night, then add i^ pounds of glucose 
 to the melted gum and mix it well, then pass it 
 through a No. 30 sieve into a clean copper pan, 
 then add enough lozenge sugar to make a stiff paste, 
 then place the batch on a clean marble and add 
 flavor and color and add more lozenge sugar, so as 
 to get the batch quite stiff, so it will cut well, 
 leaving square, and sharp edges. Now roll it out 
 in a thin sheet about ^ of an inch thick then 
 dust it with a little potato starch and rub over with 
 the hand to smooth it up a little, then cut out 
 the lozenges with a tin cutter and throw them on 
 trays, which you have dusted with fine lozenge sugar, 
 and shake the tray a little to seperate the lozenges; 
 then place them in the dry room for i or 2 days 
 till they are dry, then take them out and place the 
 lozenges in a sieve and sieve them hard so as to 
 
50 'NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 wear the rough edges off, and they are ready for 
 use. 
 
 You will find that in using the glucose in the 
 gum it will seperate the gum so you will not have 
 to rub through an extra fine sieve like most of 
 manufacturers do. 
 
 The Thermometer. 
 
 The subject of the thermometer is important to 
 all confectioners, and I think all workmen ought to 
 use them. There are some who are continually 
 cooking one thing such as stick candy, who can 
 almost tell when a batch is done by looking at it. 
 Yet we often hear the remark by them ; I got that 
 batch a little too high or I got it just a trifle too 
 low, and it may be that the same batch will be 
 shipped a long distance and will be turned before 
 it has been received by the buyer. Now if you use 
 a thermometer you know just where you are all the 
 time and you can take your batch off of the fire 
 right on the dot every time. For this reason we 
 recommend the use of the thermometer. Next you 
 will have to become acquainted with the thermom- 
 eter you are using, as thermometers varies some, 
 and you will have to find that out, which you can 
 very easy do by cooking a few batches with it. 
 
 You will notice in cooking a batch of cream 
 to 240 degrees, that it is a little to soft to suit 
 you, so you will have to go a little higher the next 
 batch, and in this way you will soon become ac- 
 
NOTES ON CANDY 
 
 5 
 
 quainted with your thermometer, it is best to use 
 one thermometer for low cooking like cream work, 
 and one other thermometer for high cooking, as 
 extra high cooks strains or expands a thermometer 
 so it is not good for low cooking use. We give 
 the following scale for a guide to those who are 
 not acquainted with the thermometer : 
 
 The Thread, 228 degrees 
 
 Good Thread, 236 
 
 Soft Ball or Catch, 240 
 
 Small Ball, 244 
 
 Large or Hard Ball, 250 
 
 Slight Snaps, 261 
 
 Good Crack, 271 
 
 Hard Crack, 310 
 
 High Cook, 330 
 
 Caramel, 360 
 
 Water Iced Goods. 
 
 Water iced goods are a very pretty looking candy 
 if properly made, and they will keep fresh for a 
 long time. 
 
 In the following we will give a correct way of 
 working them, but it takes a little practice to get 
 them nice. 
 
 Take a one quart stone bowl and place one pound 
 of extra fine lozenge sugar in the bowl, then three 
 or four teaspoonfuls of water, then stir the sugar 
 well, and if it is quite stiff yet, add one more tea- 
 spoonful of water and stir well, and if the icing 
 
52 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 is thin enough to become smooth on top when you 
 shake the bowl it is about right for use. Now take 
 an apricot jelly and lay it in the bowl on top of 
 the icing allowing the one side of the jelly to get 
 iced only, then run a two prong fork under the jelly 
 and lift it out of the icing and turn the dry side 
 of the jelly down, and drop it on a clean tray and 
 lift the fork off, shaking the jelly at the same time 
 so as to make the icing run smooth on top, now 
 continue to ice the jellies and other drops this way 
 and leave them lay in this way till the icing has 
 become hard enough to hold the weight of the jel- 
 lies and drops which will take about five hours. 
 Then stir your icing again, and if not stiff enough 
 add more sugar. Now lay the uniced side of the 
 jelly in the bowl on the top of the icing and dip 
 out with fork and turn the top side with the hard 
 icing down and leave them lay this way till they 
 are hard, when they are ready for use. You 
 can color your icing red or yellow, or orange or 
 green color. You can dip long cream drops and 
 drops cut out of almond paste with a lozenge cut- 
 ter, and almond nougateens and quince jellies, etc., 
 (for a stock of water iced goods). 
 
 Mold A Sugar. 
 
 The proper sugar to use in manufacturing candy 
 is a necessary subject to look up. I would recom- 
 mend Mold A sugar for all high cooked candies, 
 and for soda water syrups and ice cream, as it is 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. 53 
 
 freer from cane juice flavor than other sugars which 
 is of some importance in ice cream and soda water. 
 In clear drops, such as lime drops, you will be able 
 to cook higher and yet be lighter in color and 
 make dryer goods than other sugars. In refining 
 mold sugars the thin syrup is drained off leaving a 
 pure, dry sugar, free from thin syrup. In centrifugal 
 sugars, all thin syrups are dried in the sugar, there- 
 fore it contains more molasses or thin cane juice, 
 which, when cooked up to a high cook becomes 
 darker than Mold A sugar will at a higher cook. 
 You will find it will give better satisfaction in all 
 crisp candies or pulled goods on which you want a 
 high gloss, such as Butter Cups, Opera Curls, Jack 
 Straws, or twist and thin chips, and in crystallizing 
 you will find it will be more preferable for brilliant 
 crystal and less liable to turn. The older confec- 
 tioners can remember when we had nothing but Mold 
 A sugar and we found less trouble in the business 
 than now. 
 
 Easter Eggs. 
 
 No doubt there are a few confectioners who would 
 like to have a short talk with us about Easter eggs, 
 as they are troublesome goods to get nice. First we 
 will take up the subject of coating eggs with choco- 
 late. 
 
54 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 Chocolate Egg^s. 
 
 For dipping Easter eggs in chocolate take 5 pounds 
 of plain liquor chocolate and 5 pounds of sweet 
 chocolate coating and cut or break the chocolate up 
 in small pieces and place it in a 2 gallon farina 
 boiler and set on the fire and stir it till it is melted, 
 then add 8 ounces of melted paraffine and stir well, 
 then lift the pan (containing the chocolate) out of 
 the water and set it on a table and stir till the 
 chocolate slightly cools, then dip the egg in the 
 chocolate and hang on the rack, have the rack in a 
 cool place and leave them hang till the chocolate on 
 the eggs is hard, then take the eggs down and dip 
 in thin white shellac and hang up again and leave 
 till quite dry. This style of coating will keep for 
 some time without spotting, but if your chocolate 
 coating contains fats instead of cocoa butter they 
 will not keep so well, as good chocolate would. It 
 is not best to have your stock made up too long a 
 time before you wish to use them, but if you have to 
 have your stock on hand a long time it will be 
 necessary to use plain chocolate liquor only for dip- 
 ing, and work it as cold as possible. 
 
 Cream Easter Eggs. 
 
 For the inside egg use short dry cream that will 
 set quick, say 20 pounds of sugar and 2 pounds of 
 glucose and water, and cook to 242 degress and pour 
 on marble and let get cool, then turn to a cream 
 and need well, and melt the cream in a 3 gallon 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. 55 
 
 farina boiler and flavor, then have a cream funnel or 
 runner with a ^ inch hole for dropping, then drop 
 in the one half of the plaster molds (have the molds 
 well soaked in water) and drop a small yellow cream 
 drop on each half of the egg, for yelks, now drop 
 cream in the other half of mold and your assistant 
 can turn the first half over the warm half and press 
 them slightly, and when they are cold take them out 
 and trim them and dip in a fresh cream made in the 
 following way : 
 
 Cream for Dipping Eggs. 
 
 Take 20 pounds of sugar and i'^ pounds of glu- 
 cose and water and cook to 239 d^rees and pour 
 on a very clean marble and lea vp 'lay till quite cold, 
 then turn to a good cream and cover up and let 
 mellow, then knead well and place some of the cream 
 in a farina boiler and heat up hot and flavor, then 
 dip the eggs in the cream and hang up on the rack 
 to dry, and when they are hard enough to handle 
 you can take them down and trim them, and they 
 are ready for use. 
 
 Wire Hooks for Easter Eggs. 
 
 We find that a wire hook gives the best satisfac- 
 tion for hanging the eggs up with. The hook can 
 be made in the following way: Take 2 pounds of 
 brass spring wire a little thicker than a pin and cut 
 
56 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 in pieces 5 inches long, and shape it like a letter 
 L with a little hook at the top of the L to hang 
 it on the rack with. Now you can run the bottom 
 of the L into the side of the egg near the top and 
 dip the egg in chocolate or cream and hang it 
 up on the rack, and when you take them down 
 you can take the wire out of the egg and it will 
 only leave a small mark on the egg. Your rack 
 can be made by taking long wooden strips 2^/^ 
 inches wide and i inch thick, and drive small 
 wire nails in the strips 3 inches apart, now have 
 a wooden frame made over a table to rest the strips 
 on, and your rack is complete. 
 
 Decorated Eggs. 
 
 You can decorate cream eggs in colors in the fol- 
 lowing way. Wet three or four small sponges in thin 
 water colors, say one sponge in red and one in yel- 
 low, etc. Now take one of the eggs and strike the 
 egg with the sponges, and in this way you can get 
 a nice mottled egg in many colors, and when they 
 are dry they are ready for use, or you can crystallize 
 them or they can be dipped in hot paraffine, and 
 when they are cold rub them with a cloth and they 
 will be quite glossy and look like marble eggs. 
 Nice landscape scenes can be made very easy by 
 taking thin water colors and a brush and simply 
 sketch a scene on a cream egg, the cream being 
 moist it will blend the colors itself, and will have 
 a very beautiful effect. 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. 57 
 
 How to Avoid Waste of Material and Time. 
 
 First let us have an orderly work shop or factory, 
 then we can talk about keeping scrap so as not to 
 have any waste, and be able to keep our goods fresh 
 by working up stale goods without spoiling a batch 
 by getting too much scrap of the wrong kind for 
 the style of goods we want to make. It is very 
 necessary to work up stale goods as there are many 
 goods that have almonds or cocoanut or chocolate 
 or butter that makes the scrap valuable ; if it 
 was simply the price of sugar we might throw the 
 scrap away and not loose much at the present 
 price of sugar. 
 
 Orderly Work Shop or Factory. 
 
 Cleanliness about a shop is one of the rules which 
 should be most rigidly enforced, even though you 
 have to enforce the rule on yourself, there is no ex- 
 cuse for permitting piles of scraps of candy, pans, 
 brushes, etc., to lay around on the tables and mar- 
 bles, and to leave boiling pans set around on the 
 floor in your way; neither should pans, knives, 
 dippers, and sieves be allowed to remain sticky and 
 dirty, and machines covered with grease and dust ; 
 tables and marbles and trays should be kept very 
 clean so your goods do not get spoiled before they 
 leave the factory. Use plenty of wax paper to 
 spread over trays and goods, it will not be a loss 
 as the goods will be much nicer and brighter. 
 5 
 
58 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 Every thing ought to be kept in the best of order, 
 workmen should take pride in keeping their shops 
 as free from rubbish as possible, it is an unplesant 
 sight to go into a factory and see a workman with 
 a hot batch of candy under way and rummaging 
 over the numerous pans or other tools in order to 
 find a palate knife or some other tool which he 
 wants to use in a hurry. Each workman should 
 have a particular place for each tool and return it 
 to its proper place as soon as he is done with it 
 and in this way you can have an orderly factory. 
 
 How to Keep Scrap in a Proper Way. 
 
 How to keep scrap in a proper way is the next 
 important thing in a factory and it can be done in 
 the following way by having tin pans, like crystal 
 pans, and plenty of shelf room so you can set each 
 pan separately on the shelf; now take the scrap of 
 each style of candy and put in separate pans, say 
 all molasses scrap kept in one pan, and all nut 
 scrap the same, also chocolate scrap, and all white 
 goods and all dark goods, butter goods, all cocoanut 
 goods separately and when there are any stale or 
 sticky goods returned from the store throw them out 
 on a table and separate them before you put them 
 away. 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. 59 
 
 How to Work up Scrap. 
 
 When you have your scrap in the above order it 
 will be very easy to add a little to a fresh batch 
 that you are cooking without spoiling the color or 
 the taste of the goods, and you will be able to keep 
 your stock of scrap so low that you will not have 
 to make special batches of something all mixed up 
 simply to use up your scrap or stale goods, and 
 we know that batches of that kind, after all, are 
 only scrap batches, which are not worth much, 
 and you have lost the main thing you started 
 out to do, you have not saved the chocolate 
 or nuts as you intended to do, you have throwed 
 all into a molasses batch and your material is only 
 worth the value of molasses, which is only about 4 
 cents per pound ; when by adding chocolate to a 
 chocolate batch you have saved the price of choco- 
 late also. Most workmen will think that the above 
 plan of separating scrap will be too much trouble, 
 but if they get in the habit of working that way 
 they will soon forget about the trouble, it will be- 
 come natural to them to handle their work that 
 way. 
 
 All scrap that contains tartartic or citric acid 
 should be throwed away, as the acids will not cook 
 without burning or having a scorched acid taste. 
 
60 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 How to Keep a Fresh Stock of Goods. 
 
 To keep a fresh stock of goods and at the same 
 time not have any losses in stale goods is one of 
 the most important features in the candy business. 
 A constant stock of fresh goods is a sure road to 
 success in the candy business. The first thing to do 
 is to supply your store with plenty of tin cans, 
 such as lo pound lard buckets and 50 pound puddy 
 buckets with lids, which can be got for so little 
 money that every confectioner can afford to have 
 plenty ; then do not fail to use them for all clear 
 or hard goods, such as clear drops, crisp candy, 
 butter cups, crisp taffies and burnt almonds. You 
 can put a 20 or 25 pound batch of clear candy or 
 drops in a 50 pound puddy bucket and set it under 
 the counter, and you can fill your pans on the 
 counter out of the bucket as you choose. On rainy 
 days your stock will be all right in the buckets as 
 they will keep fresh till used, the same with butter 
 cups, and some styles of crystallized cream goods 
 can be kept it this way for a much longer time 
 than in paper boxes. For cream goods have com- 
 mon strong paste-board boxes with muslin binding, 
 made all one size, say 8 pound boxes, for goods 
 that cannot bare any weight have large flat boxes 
 134^ inches deep; use wax paper freely and label all 
 boxes of goods, so as to keep them in the best of 
 order. Box or can all goods as soon as they are 
 cool enough ; do not leave goods set around in the 
 factory and store in trays or pans even though the 
 
NOTES ON CANDY. 6l 
 
 weather is cool, the dust and air is effecting the 
 goods, in some way which is not best for them. 
 Now the next important feature will be to make 
 small batches in cream goods so as to have them 
 fresh, and not to get too large a stock on hand, 
 fifty different styles of candies in 20 pound batches 
 would make a stock of one thousand pounds which 
 is too much for some stores to carry and keep the 
 stock fresh. 
 
 How to Make Small Batches of Cream Goods. 
 
 In order to make small batches of cream or choco- 
 late goods without waste of material it will require 
 care and active work : First provide yourself with 
 different sizes of farina boilers, say 3 pints and ^ 
 gallon, use agate wai-e for small sizes. Now have 
 a batch of plain cream, say 20 pounds and take 2 
 or 4 pounds of this cream and warm it in the 
 farina boiler, thin enough to run or drop in impres- 
 sions in starch, then add the grated rind of 2 or 
 more oranges and a little acid (if you wish it), then 
 pour the cream in a cream dropper or funnel and drop 
 some for covering with chocolate and some for 
 dipping with cream; the chocolate goods can be 
 covered plain and some with walnuts on top, the 
 cream goods can be used the same way, in this 
 way you can drop two or three styles out of this 
 small batch. Then scrape out the cream which 
 remains in the dropper and pan and put it in a 
 
62 NOTES ON CANDY. 
 
 tin can, with lid, so as to keep the cream soft 
 till the next time you want to use the same flavor. 
 Now proceed the same way with vanilla flavor or 
 other flavors, such as cocoanut, almond paste, etc., 
 and for all cream bars and squares, Genesee cream or 
 Italian creams, cream wafers, and cream work of all 
 kinds can be worked this way, it will require a 
 good deal of work to make a large quantity in a 
 day, but you can have a large variety and can 
 keep your stock fresh. I have made 15 batches 
 this way in one day, and in all did not have more 
 than 60 pounds of goods after they were dipped in 
 cream and covered in chocolate. I worked this way 
 for one year and at the end of that time, I had in- 
 creased the trade so I could make my batches 3 
 times as large as I did the previous year. All 
 crushed cream goods which are returned from the 
 store can be put in tin cans and they will keep 
 soft so they can be used in a new batch, without 
 boiling over. 
 
 With the above I will close my remarks on the 
 manufacturing of candy, each branch of which I 
 think is sufficiently outlined to make the business clear 
 to any confectioner who has had some experience 
 in manufacturing candy, and my counsel is such 
 as cannot help being a benefit to all experimental 
 workmen, and I think we should all take a hand 
 in experiments, as there is much in store for the 
 confectioner of the future. 
 
NOTES ON ICE CREAM. 63 
 
 Notes on Ice Cream. 
 
 As there are many inquiries in reference to the 
 manufacturing of ice cream, we will choose a few 
 special points to talk about. One very special point 
 is the effect of sugar. 
 
 Effect of Sugar in Ice Cream. 
 
 The amount of sugar to be used in ice cream 
 seems to many to be of very little importance, as you 
 often hear small quantities recommended. Some use 
 
 5 ounces to a quart of cream, while others will use 
 
 6 ounces, and 7 ounces, and eight ounces at the 
 highest. Now I recommend all you can use with- 
 out making the cream too sickening sweet, as the 
 more sugar you use the smoother and tender your 
 cream will be, and the body will be better with 
 much sugar than little, as for example, you will notice 
 in water ice, 8 ounces of sugar and one quart of 
 water frozen may be smooth when you first freeze 
 it, if you work it fast enough, but after it stands for 
 one hour you find it has become quite rough, but if 
 
64 NOTES ON ICE CREAM. 
 
 you use 12 ounces of sugar to one quart of water 
 you find it much smoother, and 16 ounces will still 
 be smoother and richer and more body, but will be 
 too sweet to the taste without adding acid. So you 
 can find the sugar will have the same effect on ice 
 cream. In ice cream that you use sour fruits in, such 
 as strawberry ice cream, you can use more sugar than 
 in vanilla cream. If the cream is well beaten till 
 quite stiff it will taste less sweet than cream that is 
 soggy and watery. To prove this, taste your cream 
 before it is fully frozen. From a strictly scientific or 
 especially from an economy point of view this ques- 
 tion is of vast importance to those who are trying to 
 improve the quality of their cream by using body 
 substance, such as starch, arrow root, gelatine, etc. 
 If my theory be correct, it is clear that we may im- 
 prove the body and richness of cream by using more 
 sugar than is generally used by ice cream makers. 
 It must however be remembered that we can go to 
 the extreme and use too much sugar to suit some of 
 our customers who differ greatly in their taste and 
 imagination. 
 
 Hand Made Ice Cream. 
 
 Hand made ice cream has some advantages over 
 machine cream in one particular point. While freez- 
 ing and working with the paddle we allow all animal 
 heat and air to escape, and continually beat fresh air 
 into the cream, which improves its taste and light- 
 
NOTES ON ICE CREAM. 65 
 
 ness, and here I wish to direct attention to the im- 
 portance of pure air in the room where ice cream is 
 made. We often find ice cream manufactured in a 
 badly ventilated cellar, where everything is musty, 
 damp and sour, and sometimes cooking going on at 
 the same time in the same room. The ice has the 
 effect of drawing all gas or bad air of the room to 
 where you are at work on ice cream, and of course 
 the effect is bad. 
 
 How We Do It. 
 
 Take i8 quarts of good cream and place it in a 
 pan or can and add 13 pounds of Mold A sugar and 
 stir till the sugar is all dissolved, then strain into a 
 40 quart freezer and ice up strong, using plenty of 
 salt. Now remove the lid aad place a clasp on the 
 rim on the top of the can with a thumb screw, then 
 place an iron paddle with wooden handle (about three 
 feet long) in the can and rest the handle against the 
 clasp and run the can around with the paddle rapidly 
 and as soon as it freezes cut the cream down with 
 the paddle and continue; to freeze, and cut down till 
 you have the cream quite thick. Now re ice the can 
 and beat rapidly till the cream gets too stiff to beat 
 easy, then add one more quart of plain cream to 
 loosen and soften up the cream and continue to beat 
 till it gets stiff again, then add one more quart of 
 plain cream and continue to beat till it is quite stiff, 
 when the can ought to be full, then add flavor and 
 draw the water off and re-ice and set away for use. 
 
66 NOTES ON ICE CREAM. 
 
 A 40 quart can of ice cream ought to be made in 
 the above way in one hour and a half (i}4) without 
 hurrying, by holding the two quarts of cream out till 
 the cream is near frozen does not only have the 
 effect of loosening the cream up, but has allowed you 
 to use 13 pounds of sugar to 18 quarts of cream, 
 which will work it up smoother, then by adding the 
 two quarts later it reduces the sweetness so as to 
 make 13 pounds of sugar to 20 quarts of cream. In 
 machine ice cream you will be able to improve the 
 ice cream the same way, by adding some of the 
 cream after it is beaten stiff, it will allow you to 
 work it longer and better. You may think that 13 
 pounds of sugar is too much sugar for 20 quarts 
 of plain cream, but if you have rich cream and 
 well worked it will taste all right. One of our 
 salesladies told me that she had some very particu- 
 lar customers who liked our cream better than our 
 neighbors, because our cream was not so sweet, yet 
 at the same time I was using 5 ounces more sugar 
 to the quart than our neighbor. 
 
 Ice Cream Flavors. 
 
 In the following list of flavors you will be able 
 to choose from each day to make up your bill of 
 fare. 
 
 
 ICE 
 
 CREAMS. 
 
 Lemon. 
 
 
 Pistache. 
 
 Orange. 
 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 Vanilla. 
 
 
 Nutmeg. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 
 Croquan. 
 
NOTES ON ICE CREAM. 
 
 67 
 
 
 ICE CREAMS. 
 
 Strawberry. 
 
 
 Apricot. 
 
 Caramel. 
 
 
 Banana. 
 
 Peach. 
 
 
 Pine Apple. 
 
 Bisque. 
 
 
 Preserve Ginger. 
 
 Tutti Frutti. 
 
 
 Nougateen. 
 
 Raspberry. 
 
 
 
 
 WATEK 
 
 . ICES. 
 
 Pine Apple. 
 
 
 Grape. 
 
 Strawberry. 
 
 
 Currant. 
 
 Wild Cherry. 
 
 
 Raspberry. 
 
 Cherry. 
 
 
 Ginger. 
 
 Orange. 
 
 
 Sweet Violets. 
 
 Lemon. 
 
 
 Peach. 
 
 
 FROZEN 
 
 FRUITS. 
 
 Peaches. 
 
 
 Apricots. 
 
 Pine Apple. 
 
 
 Cherries. 
 
 Strawberries. 
 
 
 Manderine Oranges. 
 
 
 FROZEN CUSTARDS. 
 
 Lemon Custard. 
 
 
 Nutmeg Custard. 
 
 Vanilk Custard. 
 
 
 Orange Custard. 
 
 How to Prepare Chocolate for Ice Cream. 
 
 Take 5 pounds of plain liquor chocolate and cut 
 it up fine and place it in a farina boiler and set 
 it on the fire and stir till it is well melted, then 
 take 6 pounds of sugar and i pound of glucose and 
 one quart of water and place the sugar, glucose and 
 water in a copper pan and set on the fire and cook 
 to 35 degrees on syrup gauge, or a thin syrup, then 
 take a dipper and pour the syrup into the choco- 
 
68 NOTES ON ICE CREAM 
 
 late in a fine stream, . stirring the chocolate well all 
 the time, and continue this way till you have all 
 the syrup added to the chocolate, then stir the choco- 
 late well till quite smooth, then set it away in a 
 cool place and when you wish to use the paste in 
 ice cream take one or two pounds of the paste and 
 place it in a pan, and set the pan in warm water 
 and when the paste is melted add a little cream to 
 the paste to thin it, and then add it to the ice 
 cream. 
 
 How to Prepare Strawberries for Ice Cream. 
 
 Pick the stems off the berries and wash them and 
 run through a fruit crushing machine, then place 
 them in a stone dish and add enough red color to 
 color them a bright red, and leave set this way for 
 one hour, when you can add the berries to the 
 ice cream, which will color the cream a light pink 
 color, and the berries will show up through the 
 cream like bright red crushed berries. 
 
 Peaches for Ice Cream. 
 
 Prepare the peaches the same way as the straw- 
 berries, (excepting the color), add a little red and 
 yellow color to make a nice rich peach color. 
 
NOTES ON TCE CREAM. 69 
 
 Cost of Ice Cream. 
 
 There seems to be many inquiries for cheap or 
 artificial ice cream, for this reason 1 give the fol- 
 lowing figures, which I copy from my book of ac- 
 counts for one month's business, and the cost of 
 material used : 
 
 1040 quarts of plain cream, at 18 cents per quart, .... $187 20 
 (cream stood 80 and 85 per cent cream), 
 
 15 tons of ice, at $4.00 per ton, 60 00 
 
 50 bushel of salt, at 30 cents per bushel, 15 0° 
 
 696 pounds of mold A sugar, at 4^ cents per pound, . . 31 28 
 
 30 quarts of strawberries, at 15 cents per quart, .... 4 50 
 
 30 " " 10 " " .... 3 00 
 
 20 pounds of chocolate, at 23 cents per pound, 4 60 
 
 4 pounds of vanilla bean, at $7.00 per pound, 28 00 
 
 $333 58 
 
 The above material made 21 14 quarts of ice 
 cream, and we find by the above figures that the 
 ice cream cost a little over 15 cents per quart for 
 material, which is very cheap for good ice cream, 
 and shows very clearly that there is no use mak- 
 ing artificial ice cream to lessen the cost, when 
 pure cream can be made at the above cost, and 
 can be handled with a good profit in any part of 
 the country. 
 
 Age of Cream. 
 
 One more point I wish to call your attention 
 to, is the age of cream which is very important, 
 cream ought to be 4 or 5 days old (after it is sep- 
 
yO NOTES ON ICE CREAM. 
 
 arated from the milk) before it is used for ice 
 cream, this age improves it in body richness and 
 smoothness, you can very easy test this point by 
 working up part of a fresh can of cream and leave 
 the balance stand 4 or 5 days before working it up 
 in ice cream. We have one dairyman who never 
 ships his cream till it is 4 day's old, and I know 
 of one creamery that has a reputation for very good 
 cream, and one of his workmen says he holds his 
 cream till it is 10 day's old before he ships it, now 
 this seems a long time to hold cream, but if it 
 is kept in a good can and in a low temperature it 
 can be done. One more point to watch is to see 
 that you get fair measure, it is a common practice 
 among the drivers of milk wagons to pour cream 
 from one can to the other and in this way they 
 swell the cream so that 18 quarts will fill a 20 
 quart can, and when you freeze it into ice cream 
 you find it hard work to beat it up into double 
 quantity. Cream should be sold in dry measure 
 which is the common rule in dairies \ all buyers of 
 cream should have a testing glass, so as to know 
 what grade of cream you are using, most any kind 
 of a glass that will hold about 4 ounces would do 
 to test with, fill your glass with cream and set in 
 the ice box over night, and you can see how much 
 milk your cream contains, as it will separate by 
 morning, leaving the milk at the bottom of the 
 glass and the cream on top. 
 
NOTES ON ICE CREAM. J\ 
 
 Boiled Cream. 
 
 Boiled cream for ice cream is liked in some parts 
 of the country, while the trade is different in other 
 places and you would not be able to sell boiled 
 cream as your trade would want plain cream only. 
 The best way to boil cream is to have a quick fire, 
 or steam if you can have it is better, as it is quicker 
 to get a boil on a steam jacket pan than a pan set 
 on a fire, but if you have to use a fire get it up to 
 a good heat, then set your pan on the fire and 
 pour 4 or 5 quarts of cream in the pan and let it 
 come to a boil, then add the balance of the cream 
 gradually so as not to check the boil too much, as 
 you can avoid curdling the cream in this way (if 
 you was to put 20 quarts of cream in a pan and 
 set it on the fire and wait till it boiled it would be 
 liable to separate and curdle if the cream was not 
 just in good order). After you have let the cream 
 come to a good boil, remove from the fire and set 
 the pan in cold water and stir the cream till it cools 
 off, then put it away in the ice chest till the next 
 day when it will be old enough to use for freezing 
 and will have a better body by setting over night ; 
 freeze the same as any other cream ; be sure and 
 stir the cream till it cools so it will have the effect 
 of letting all animal or cook taste to evaporate, and 
 will taste better and there will be no thick scum form 
 on the top of the cream, which is the case when you 
 allow it to cool without stirring. 
 
72 NOTES ON ICE CREAM. 
 
 How to Make "Water Ices. 
 
 Water ices are always best when made from fresh 
 fruits in their season, such as peaches, grapes, cur- 
 rants, berries, cherries, pineapples, lemons and 
 oranges. For winter use we find currant, grape and 
 cherry juice are the most popular. Cherry and 
 grape juice boiled in bottles and kept till 2 or 3 
 years old are good stand bys and are handy for use. 
 The following formula we find gives the best satis- 
 faction : Take 6 quarts of water and add 2 quarts 
 of fruit juice (new or bottled) and add enough sugar 
 to make a syrup of 20 degrees strength (cold) with 
 the syrup gauge; now put one pound of glucose in 
 a pan and warm it a little and then mix with the 
 syrup and add enough citric acid to make the syrup 
 a little tart, then color to suit the fruit you are 
 using (red or yellow or orange), and freeze all to a 
 stiff ice, when it is ready for use. If you wish to 
 use the water ice for molding or decoration, make 
 your syrup weaker as the richness of the sugar will 
 cause it to melt much sooner. For orange or lemon 
 ice, proceed the same way, only adding the grated 
 rind and strain before freezing. 
 
 How to Make Frozen Fruits. 
 
 Frozen fruits can be made the same as the above 
 water ice, by making a syrup the same strength with 
 sugar, glucose, water and the juice off of your canned 
 fruit, and freeze it quite stiff, then add your fruit 
 and work it through the ice so as not to crush it 
 
NOTES ON ICE CREAM. 
 
 73 
 
 too much, peaches, apricots and pineapples can be 
 cut in small pieces and color peach, light pink; and 
 apricot, yellow ; cherries, red ; etc. 
 
 How to Make Frozen Custards. 
 
 In frozen custards I would advise using good cream 
 instead of milk, as is generally used: Take 4 quarts 
 of cream and bring it to a boil, with 2 pounds of 
 sugar, when cold add 6 eggs well beaten, and freeze 
 same as ice cream and flavor, those who do not like 
 the eggs uncooked can boil them with the' cream. 
 
NOTES ON SODA WATER. 75 
 
 Notes on Soda Water. 
 
 Soda Water. 
 
 We do not feel like closing this book without 
 having a little talk about the soda water business, as 
 most confectionerys have soda water fountains, and 
 we believe that there is a bright future for the soda 
 water and root beer business in America, and not 
 only in America, but Europe also, for I have been 
 told by one who knows, that Charles Hires' Root 
 Beer Extract is sold very extensively in England. 
 And that soda water is becoming more popular in 
 Europe. And we know that America has the lead 
 on all other countries for good mild drinks like soda 
 water, and the next necessary thing to do is to keep 
 our fountain up to the advancing times j soda water 
 and everything that is used in making up the nu- 
 merous drinks should be the purest the market 
 affords ; as good soda water is not a bad thing for 
 health or taste, and we should spare no pains in 
 obtaining the best of fruits and juices and every 
 thing our business requires to make good soda water ; 
 
jd NOTES ON SOUA WATER. 
 
 and here we wish to bring up a {^^^ points to en- 
 able you to have a fresh stock of syrups daily. We 
 would advise you to use fresh fruits in season for 
 syrups, which can be done simply by crushing the 
 fruit with some sugar and adding a little water to 
 thin the syrup and continue to stir the syrup till 
 the sugar is thoroughly dissolved, then add a little 
 citric acid if the fruit has not made the syrup tart 
 enough, and color and strain through a cloth, and 
 the syrup is ready for use. I would not advise 
 use of gum foam as it always has an unpleasant 
 taste and does not put any life in the soda water, 
 it only makes a foam, which is flat as soap suds. 
 
 High Charged Soda Water. 
 
 It is best to have your soda water charged to an 
 extra high pressure, then you can get a good foam 
 on a glass of soda water, and your soda water will 
 have more life and a better taste than if you used 
 gum foam ; but if you wish to use it you will find 
 the following the best formula you can use. 
 
 Gum Foam. 
 
 Place 2 quarts of alcohol in a large glass jar, 
 then add 2 quarts of water, i quart of glycerine 
 and mix well together, then add 2 pounds of 
 ground soap bark and shake well and let stand 7 
 days, then strain and filter, and it is ready for use; 
 one ounce to one gallon of syrup is sufficient to 
 make a foam. 
 
NOTES ON SODA WATER, 'JJ 
 
 Fresh Stock of Syrups. 
 
 In order to have a fresh stock of syrups daily, 
 where your daily sales are small, it is best to work 
 on the following plan : Have one or two gallon 
 glass jars with large openings at the top and then 
 mix your syrups as you want to use them, by placing 
 5 j)ounds of sugar in a jar and add a half gallon of 
 water and flavor, such as orange, lemon, etc., and 
 add enough citric acid to make it a little tart, then 
 add the color and stir the syrup with a small 
 wooden paddle till the sugar is dissolved, when it 
 will be ready for use. 
 
 Fruit Syrups. 
 
 For fruit syrups made from bottled juice, take a 
 glass jar and place 7 pounds of sugar in it and add 
 half a gallon of water and one quart bottle of 
 fruit juice, and a little citric acid to make the syrup 
 a little tart, then add color and stir the syrup till 
 the sugar is dissolved, when it is ready for use. 
 
 On this simple plan you can keep your stock 
 down to suit your daily business, and always have 
 a fresh stock. 
 
 Lemon Phosphate. 
 
 Lemon phosphate can be made by taking 5 
 pounds of sugar and place it in a glass jar and add 
 half a gallon of water and stir till the sugar is all 
 dissolved, then add 3 ounces of solution of acid of 
 
/S NOTES ON SODA WATER. 
 
 phosphate and enough citric acid to make the syrup 
 quite bour, then add extract of lemon or the grated 
 rind of 6 lemons and strain through a. cloth, and 
 it is ready for use. 
 
 Fruit Phosphates. 
 
 Fruit phosphates can be made by placing 8 pounds 
 of sugar in a glass jar and add a half gallon of 
 fruit juice and one quart of water and enough citric 
 acid to make it quite tart, then color and stir till 
 the sugar is dissolved, and it is ready for use. 
 
 Chocolate Syrup. 
 
 Chocolate syrup can be made by taking one 
 pound of chocolate paste (made the same as is de- 
 scribed in notes on ice cream in this book) and 
 place it in a copper pan and add 6 pounds of sugar 
 and half a gallon of water, and place on the 
 fire and let come to a good boil, then stir well 
 and when it has cooled off it is ready for use. 
 After this syrup stands in the fountain for a short 
 time, the butter that the chocolate contains will 
 raise to the top of the syrup, but the syrup will 
 be sufficiently flavored with the chocolate for use. 
 
NOTES ON SODA WATER. 79 
 
 How to Keep a Large Fountain Stocked. 
 
 How to run a large fountain without loss of stock 
 by souring of syrups, etc., is a very difficult thing 
 to do, most soda water men kill everything with 
 preserving acids and cooking of syrups, etc. Now I 
 have run a very large fountain with cold syrups in the 
 following way : First take an empty glucose barrel, 
 set on end, having the head out, now bore two holes 
 ij^ inches in diameter in the barrel near the top 
 opposite each other, now put a broom handle through 
 the holes, then place a paddle in the barrel about 6 
 feet long and tie it to the broom handle, now fill 
 the barrel half full of water or 30 gallons of water 
 and 300 pounds of sugar, then work the paddle 
 back and forwards so as to stir the water and dis- 
 solve the sugar, and continue to work this way till 
 the sugar is all dissolved, then insert a syrup gauge 
 in the syrup and if the syrup is 31 or 32 degrees 
 strong it is about right, or if you want it thicker 
 add more sugar, and work the paddle till it is 
 thoroughly dissolved (the thicker the syrup the lon- 
 ger it will keep without souring). Now when you 
 run out of your syrup flavors you can take one 
 gallon of this simple syrup and place it in a two 
 gallon glass jar (or bottle with a large opening at 
 the top), and add your fruit juice and citric acid 
 and it is ready for use; in this way you can have 
 a large stock of simple syrup on hand and you can 
 mix flavors as fast as you need them and will be 
 able to keep a big fountain running without making 
 
8o 
 
 NOTES ON SODA WATER. 
 
 furmer preparation, and can keep your syrup stock 
 down to any quantity you will use for one day's 
 sales, and can avoid having a loss of sour syrups. 
 I recommend the use of cold syrups because I be- 
 lieve it IS much better than cooked syrups, and I 
 would advise the use of Mold A sugar in making 
 syrups. I have kept a fountain running on the 
 above plan where there was three and four thousand 
 glasses of soda water sold in one day and was able 
 to keep it running with ease. In order to have a 
 large stock of sweetened cream to use in the foun- 
 tain you can work on the above plan by placing 
 the cream in a large can and add the sugar and 
 stir till the sugar is dissolved, when it is ready 
 for use. 
 
 List of Syrups. 
 
 In the following we will give a list of syrups 
 which you can choose from to make up your stock 
 from : 
 
 Lime. 
 
 Feach. 
 
 Apple. 
 
 Vanilla. 
 
 Plum. 
 
 Violet. 
 
 Lemon. 
 
 Ginger. 
 
 Cherry. 
 
 Orange. 
 
 Raspberry \'inegar. 
 
 Wild Cherry. 
 
 Red Orange. 
 
 Blackberry " 
 
 Nectar. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 vSarsaparilla. 
 
 Cucoanut. 
 
 Sherbet. 
 
 Red Currant. 
 
 Marshmallow. 
 
 Raspberry. 
 
 Grape. 
 
 Pistache. 
 
 Strawberry. 
 
 Quince. 
 
 Nutmeg. 
 
 Blackberry. 
 
 Prune. 
 
 Teaberry. 
 
 Cranberry. 
 
 Apricot 
 
 Pine Apple. 
 
NOTES ON SODA WATER. 8 1 
 
 
 PHOSPHATES 
 
 Pear. 
 
 Celery. Crab Apple. 
 
 Orange. 
 
 Strawberry. Cherry. 
 
 Lemon. 
 
 Egg. Crape. 
 
 Plain Lemonade. 
 
 Strawberries and Cream. 
 
 Egg Lemonade. 
 
 Crushed Strawberries and Whipped Cream 
 
 Lemonade Soda. 
 
 Chocolate and Cream Soda. 
 
 Ice Cream Soda. 
 
 Mint and Cream Soda. 
 
 Peaches and Cream. 
 
 Root Beer. 
 
 MINERAL WATERS 
 Vichy. Geyser. Deep Rock. 
 
 Appolinaris. Hunyadi. Plain Soda. 
 
 Hot Clam Broth. Hot Beef Tea. 
 
 Hot Chocolate. Hot Cofifee. Hot Tea. 
 
 Root Beer Syrup. 
 
 For making a syrup to use with a soda fountain 
 take one gallon of simple syrup and add 5 ounces 
 of Hires' Root Beer Solution and mix well and use 
 the same as other syrups. 
 
 In running the beer in a soda water fountain, we 
 would suggest, as most soda water is charged very 
 high, to each pint of syrup add ^ pint of plain 
 water, and in dispensing use )^ of a glass of this, 
 filling it with the soda water, which should be drawn 
 lively so as to have the syrup well mixed. This 
 will give you a mild and delicious beer. Dispense 
 it cold. 
 
 For charging and running the beer direct from 
 the fountain, dissolve 5^ pounds of sugar in 7 gal- 
 
82 NOTES ON SODA WATER. 
 
 Ions of water, then add 5 ounces of the solution. 
 Mix well, place in a 10 gallon fountain and charge 
 to 80 degrees. As the beer draws quite foamy it 
 is well to have some of the plain beer mixed in 
 a separate vessel, or it can be kept in one of the 
 syrup holders, and in dispensing, fill the glass one- 
 third full of this and draw the glass full lively from 
 the fountain. 
 
 Root Beer by Fermentation. 
 
 Take one pint of the solution (Hires'), 20 pound 
 of sugar (Mold A is preferable), 20 gallons of pure 
 fre^li water (luke warm is preferable). 2 pints of 
 yeast, or 3 cakes of compressed yeast. (When made 
 in the winter time, double the quantity of yeast 
 should be used). 
 
 The Way To Do It. 
 
 Dissolve the sugar thoroughly in the water, then 
 add the Root Beer Extract and the yeast. (If cake 
 yeast be used, it should first be dissolved in a little 
 water, then it will mix more readily with the beer). 
 Stir until thoroughly mixed, and bottle in strong 
 bottles or jugs, corking and tying the corks in se- 
 curely, or it may be placed in tight kegs, so that 
 the gas may not escape. Set away in a place of 
 even temperature. It will be ready to drink after 
 being bottled ten or twelve hours, but will open 
 more effervescingly if allowed to stand three or four 
 
NOTES ON SODA WATER. 83 
 
 days. Before opening the bottle place it on ice, or 
 in a cool place for a short time, when it will be 
 sparkling and delicious. 
 
 To make the beer more cheaply, molasses or com- 
 mon sugar may be used to sweeten it. 
 
 Fruit Juices. 
 
 I would like to give a brief direction on putting 
 up juices, and yet I do not want to tire you with 
 formulas for preserving fruit, etc., as is generally 
 done by writers, I simply want to make plain how 
 easy you can put up your own juices for soda water 
 or ice cream or candy use, the following is the 
 very best way to put up juices : Grind the fruit 
 through a cider mill, then press the juice off like 
 cider (for berries use straw in the press) then bot- 
 tle, cork and tie the corks down well, then have a 
 large tin boiler like a wash boiler with straight sides 
 up and down, a good size is 22 inches in diameter 
 and 15 inches in height. Now put a wooden slat rack 
 in the bottom of the boiler, then place the bottles of 
 juice in the boiler (which will hold about 30 bottles) 
 and fill with water near to the top of the boiler, 
 only leaving part of the necks of the bottles above 
 the water, then place the boiler on the fire and al- 
 low the water to boil ^ of an hour after the water 
 has come to a good boil, then remove from the fire 
 and let stand a few minutes, then dip or draw the 
 water off Irum the bottles and allow the bottles to 
 
84 NOTES ON SODA WATER. 
 
 remain in the boiler till they have cooled off a 
 little, then set them out on a table and after the 
 bottles have become cold enough to handle dip the 
 tops in hot wax and then dip in cold water to 
 cool the wax ; now you can lay them down on 
 their sides in a cool place and leave till you wish 
 to use the juice. Those who have steam jacket 
 pans can put a wooden rack in the pan and boil 
 the juice in bottles the same way as the above or 
 you can have a wooden trough made with a coil 
 of steam pipes in the bottom and a slat rack laid 
 on top of the coil of pipes and work on the above 
 plan. In this way you can boil 150 at one boil- 
 ing. Do not use any sugar in your juices as the 
 sugar will make the juice taste like preserved fruit 
 and will not have so good a flavor as the plain 
 juice will. I prefer the boiling process for keep- 
 ing juice, as all juices that are put up with sal 
 icylic acid looses its flavor, or is preserved to death 
 in order to keep it. 
 
WINDOW AND COUNTER. 85 
 
 The Window and Counter. 
 
 Before we close we would like to say a few words 
 on the subject ol window dressing and counter and 
 show case, for the factories benefit, as the factory 
 is a big sufferer from the windows, owing to the 
 large quantity of spoiled goods that has been on 
 show in the windows and are returned to the fac- 
 tory to be worked up into fresh goods. Now we 
 should have some reform on this line of action as 
 the factory has enough to do to work up its own 
 scrap and necessary stale goods from the counter, 
 but when we are obliged to receive a large quantity 
 from the window it is too much to work up prop- 
 erly and the consequence is spoiled batches in color 
 and taste. Now this is all wrong, but to dress the 
 window is a very necessary thing to do, and here 
 I would like to make a few suggestions : First thing 
 to do is to keep the quantity down to a few dishes 
 or trays with one layer on each dish only. A nice 
 tray can be made by any box maker in the follow- 
 ing style : have a tray 9 inches long 7 inches wide 
 
86 WINDOW AND COUNTER. 
 
 with sides or rim ]^ inch high, made out of extra 
 heavy paste board or wood, and then cover the tray 
 with white paper, and cover the rim with gold leaf 
 paper, then lay a wax paper in the bottom of the 
 tray and it is ready for use for the window or 
 counter or show case ; 30 trays of the above size 
 will just fill a 6 foot show case and you can pile 
 two styles of candy on each tray, which will just 
 make 60 styles of candy in one case for the win- 
 dow ; you can lay one layer of bon-bons on each 
 tray and in this way you can make a nice show, 
 and can change it easy and keep the main point in 
 view, that is, not to have too large a stock on hand 
 to get stale. In dressing windows you should be 
 as original as possible and not have any one style 
 longer than one day if possible, and it can be 
 done very easy by having your window arranged so 
 as not to take many goods to fill it. The floor of 
 a window made in an L shape is a good plan, then 
 you can walk into the window much better and 
 can change it very easy, and if you only leave the 
 goods in the window one day you can sell them 
 the next day, and in this way you will not have 
 so many stale goods on hand. One reason for being 
 original and changing often is that people are al- 
 ways looking for something new in your window 
 and will never pass the neighborhood of your store 
 without stopping to look in your window ; most any 
 person can think of some new style or plan to fix 
 up the window on each day. I will just mention a 
 
WINDOW AND COUNTER. 8/ 
 
 few ways that will look well. One very nice way 
 is to have your window dressed all in white and 
 have all white goods, such as white cream goods 
 with nuts on top of each bon-bon, then cream mint 
 plait and cream vanilla bars and crisp candies in 
 white, such as Jack Straws and Chips, and Crimps, 
 and a bouquet of white flowers between the trays or 
 dishes, either artificial or natural will do, and the 
 next day dress the window all in pink, and pink 
 candies only, and the next day everything in violet 
 and continue in this way with chocolate goods and 
 nut goods. 
 
 And it is a good idea to dress your window to 
 suit different days, such as Fourth of July, dress up 
 in patriotic colors ; and for a May Day have May 
 apple plants growing in pots, and make May apple 
 candy, flavor with May apple or extract of banana. 
 Have something appropriate for each holiday, such as 
 St. Patrick's Day have your window dressed in green 
 and green goods, and for fall, have fall scenes with 
 autumn leaves and autumn fruits ; winter, with win- 
 ter scenes and Christmas scenes, such as imitations 
 of snow, with green spruce, etc. With these simple 
 suggestions we will close. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CANDY. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Hints on Cream (or Fondant), 9 
 
 Effect of Alkalines on Sugar, .... 9 
 
 Cliange of the Grain of Sugar, lO 
 
 Live Cream, lO 
 
 Dead Cream, II 
 
 Different Alkalines for Different Purposes, 1 1 
 
 Covering Cream, 12 
 
 Dipping Cream, 12 
 
 Acetic Acid Cream, 13 
 
 Dipping Goods in Cream, 13 
 
 Conserve Cream, 14 
 
 Cocoanut Cream, 14 
 
 Chocolate Cream, 15 
 
 Genessee or Italian Creams, 15 
 
 St. Nicholas Creams, 1 6 
 
 Almond Paste Cream, 16 
 
 Hovv^ to Handle Starch Work, 18 
 
 How to Handle Chocolate for Covering Goods, 19 
 
 Chocolate Marble, 19 
 
 How to cover Chocolate Goods with Streaks over Top, .... 20 
 
 Round Chocolates with Streaks, 21 
 
 Chocolates with Curl on Top, 21 
 
 How to keep Chocolate Goods during Warm Weather, .... 22 
 
 Farina Boiler for Chocolate Work, 22 
 
 List of Chocolate Goods for Retail Store 23 
 
 Notes on Chocolates, ... 24 
 
 Roasted or Burnt Nuts, 25 
 
 Burnt Peanuts, 27 
 
 Cocoanut Candies, 28 
 
PAGE. 
 
 Soft Cocoanut Candies, 29 
 
 High Cooked Cocoanut, 30 
 
 Butter Cocoanut, .... 30 
 
 Soft Candies, 31 
 
 Caramels, 32 
 
 Hard Candy, 32 
 
 Lime Drops, 33 
 
 Crisp Candies, 34 
 
 The use of Gloves, 35 
 
 Opera Chips, 35 
 
 Jellies, 36 
 
 Quince Jellies, 38 
 
 Apricot Jellies, 39 
 
 Basin Work, 39 
 
 Smooth Almonds, 39 
 
 Clear Basin Goods, 41 
 
 Cream Basin Work, 42 
 
 Pulled Cream Candies, 43 
 
 Crystallizing, 43 
 
 Gum Work, 45 
 
 Gum Wafers, 46 
 
 Marshmallows, . 47 
 
 Lozenges, 49 
 
 The Thermometer, 50 
 
 Water Iced Goods, 51 
 
 Mold A Sugar, 52 
 
 Easter Eggs, 53 
 
 Chocolate Eggs .54 
 
 Cream Easter Eggs, 54 
 
 Cream for Dipping Eggs, 55 
 
 Wire Hooks for Easter Eggs, 55 
 
 Decorated Eggs, 56 
 
 How to Avoid Waste of Material and Time, 57 
 
 Orderly Work Shop or Factory, 57 
 
 How to Keep Scrap in a Proper Way, 58 
 
 How to Work up Scrap, 59 
 
 How to Keep a Fresh Stock of Goods, 60 
 
 How to Make Small Batches of Cream Goods, 61 
 
iCK cream:. 
 
 Effect of Sugar in Ice Cream, 63 
 
 Hand Made Ice Cream, 64 
 
 How We Uo It, 65 
 
 Ice Cream Flavors, 66 
 
 Water Ice Flavors, 67 
 
 Frozen Fruit Flavors, 67 
 
 Frozen Custards, 67 
 
 How to Prepare Chocolate for Ice Cream, 67 
 
 How to Prepare Strawberries for Ice Cream, 68 
 
 Peaches for Ice Cream, 68 
 
 Cost of Ice Cream, 69 
 
 Age of Cream, 69 
 
 Boiled Cream, 71 
 
 IIow to Make Water Ices, 72 
 
 How to Make Frozen Fruits, 72 
 
 How to Make Frozen Custards, 73 
 
 SODA W^ATER. 
 
 Soda Water, 75 
 
 High Charged Soda Water, 76 
 
 Gum Foam, -76 
 
 Fresh Stock of Syrups, 77 
 
 Fruit Syrups, 77 
 
 Lemon Phosphate, 77 
 
 Fruit Phosphates, 78 
 
 Chocolate Syrup, 78 
 
 How to Keep a Large Fountain Stocked, 79 
 
 List of Syrups, ■ 80 
 
 Root Beer Syrup, . 81 
 
 Root Beer by Fermentation, 82 
 
 The Way to Do It, 82 
 
 Fruit Juices, 83 
 
 The Window and Counter, 85 
 
CRANDALL & GODLEY, 
 
 IMPORTERS, EXPORTERS AND MANUFACTURERS OF 
 EVERYTHING USED BY 
 
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 XXXX Powdered Sugar, &c., &c» 
 
 Write for prices and catalogue, or send for a copy of THE SUPPLY 
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 existence. 
 
 157 iPE^^nsricxjiisr ste^eet, 
 
 NEW YORK CITY. 
 
CRANDALL & GODLEY 
 
 CALL YOUR ATTENTION TO THEIR CELEBRATED 
 
 Horizontal Freezer 
 
 Which they can prove is the best Ice Cream Freezer 
 upon the market. 
 
 By the peculiar construction of this freezer no salt water 
 can get into it. It makes smoother and more uniform 
 cream and with ten per cent, less pure stock than an upright 
 freezer. 
 
 All sizes turn easily by hand, much more easily than 
 upright freezers. 
 
 MADE IN TWO SIZES: 
 
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THE BEST AND PUREST 
 
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