LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 5 $ UNITED STATES OP AMERICA.! HISTORICAL OUTLINE LOWER CALIFORNIA, COMPILED BY J^COB I>. LEE8E. M NHW YORK, DECEMBER, 1865. |l«to fork J K 8. BODGE & CO., BOOK AND JOB PRINTEE8, 84 JOHN STREET. 1866. a-. / The undersigned, having obtained a grant from the Mexican Government of such part of the Territory of Lower California as lies between lI4^' !20" and ol" north latitude, containing five thous- and two hundred square leagues, or forty-six thousand eight hun. dred square miles of land, has formed a company for the purpose of colonizing and developing the Territory. The following brief account of the geography, climate, agricul- tural and mineral resources of the Territory is derived either from authentic manuscripts of former travellers or from my own observsr tion, and is entirely reliable. JACOB P. LEESE. Hernando Oortes, having vanquished, though not subjugated, the Aztec nation, looked towards the western shores of the new world, and, amid his dreams of glory, saw in the horizon, clouds, which like those that indicate to the mariner the proximity of land, gave him assurance that from their midst might yet emerge another Tenoxtitlan. In the year 1534, two vessels, built by his orders in the Sea of Tehuantepec, explored the waters of the Pacific, and discovered the Gulf and land of Lower California. The Gulf was called the Sea of Ooetes, afterwards the Vermillion Sea, now more commonly the Gulf of California. His first anchorage was made at a shallow cove on the gulf side, in front of the Island of Cerralvo, (latitude 24° 15".) Without knowing its extent or form, he took possession of the main land in the name of the King, and called it Santa Cruz. After the lapse of one hundred and sixty-three years from its discovery by Coetes, Father Jitan Makia. de Salvatieeka, accom- panied by Admiral Otando, took possession of and colonized the peninsula.. On the 19th day of October, 1697, they landed at the Bay of San Bruno ; but not deeming this place suitable for their purposes, sailed fifteen miles further north, to the place now called Loreto. Loreto, called from the Virgin Loreto, is situated in north latitude 25° Bo", on a bay surrounded by land in the form of a semi-circle. The land is covered with verdure and undergrowth timber, and well watered. It afterwards became the capital of the whole peninsula. In a manuscript book used by Father Salvatiekra for the entry of the baptisms and marriages of the Indians at the Mission of Loreto, from October 1, 1701, may be found the following note made by Father Fray Junipero Serra, at the time of his taking possession of the Mission, April 2, 1768 : 6 [tbanslation.] " Holy 8aU(rday, April 2, 1768. " We are now in this mission and royal presidio of Loreto, the "capital of this peninsula of Lower California, sixteen religious "priests and apostolic missionaries of the Seraphic Order of the "College of ^ Fide Propuaganda,'' of the College of 'San Fernando " of Mexico,' sent by our prelates to serve as ministers for all the "naissions of this peninsula which were placed under the charge " of our said apostolical College in the name of his Catholic Majesty, ' (whom may God guard,) by decree of his excellency the Marquis " of Croix, Viceroy and Captain- General of this new Spain. ■^Z' In March, 1 77 7j^ Father Nicholas TAMAiiAL, appointed to the " projected missions, arrived at Loreto with orders to Father Saiva- " tierea from the new Viceroy, Marquis of Valero. The Marquis " desired a personal interview with Father Salvaxiebra at the " Capital of Mexico, for the purpose of eliciting all possible inform- " ation regarding CaKfornia. Despite his age and infirmities, the * ' good Father, anxious to protect the interests of his missions, "leaving Father Urgarte in charge, started March 81st on his "long and tedious journey, accompanied by Brother Bravo. On "the ninth day of his journeying he landed at Matachel, (now San "Bias,) and thence he travelled on horseback to Topic. There, " being attacked by a severe gravel complaint to which he was '• subject, he was obliged to be carried on a palaquin to GuadaJa- "jara, where he became dangerously ill. Seeing his last end "approaching, he solemnly confided to Brother Bhavo the business " which had induced him to undertake his journey to Mexico, and " directed him to write the missionaries in California that he hoped, "through the mediation of those who had been converted to the «* true faith through his labors, and had preceded him to Heaven, "• to secure the aid and protection of the Almighty for that country. So departed the s})irit of this illustrious and worthy man, on "the 17th day of July, 1717, in the seventy-first year of his age. *' His remains were placed in a cofiin and deposited behind the " altar in the Chapel of our Lady of Loreto in Guadalajara, of "which he was the founder " OF THE Mlt^SIONS, AND BY WHOM FOUNDED. LORETO. Loreto is situated on the margin of the Gulf, in north latitude 25" H^'", about the center of Dionisius' Cove, (formed by the Ooro- nados Islands on the north and the Carmen Island on the south.) The land is level, and very desirable for a settlement. Eighteen miles south there is another harbor called "Concealed Peak," which though narrow at its entrance, aifords a safe anchorage in all seasons of the year for the largest vessels. It is about three miles in circumference, surrounded by a rocky, craggy bluff, and inter- sected here and there by deep and narrow gulches, and well timbered. It was formerly used by the Spanish as a concealed magazine. The remains of the old buildings are yet standing. In the interior, some thirty miles west and north of Loreto, are found silver, lead, flint and copper. Fruits of all descriptions are raised in gx-eat abundance. The oranges of Loreto, a species of the mandarin orange, though larger in size, are especially valued in all the Mexican ports, and are preferred to any others raised on that coast. MISSION MULEGE. Mission Multjge, in north latitude 27", was founded by Father Basaldua in November, 170.5. It is distant about two miles from the gulf, on the edge of a plain at the foot of a mountain which rises westward The plain is about twenty miles in extent, well timbered, and affording plenty of pasture. A stream courses through it, about three miles in length at high tide, and navigable 8 for vessels of twenty tons for two miles, up to the old settlement. The old settlement was abandoned in 1815 by the few remaining inhabitants, who were compelled to leave, as the government made it a depot for exiles sent from Sonora and Sinaloa. MISSION COMONDU. Mission Comondu, in north latitude 25 " 'dO". was founded by Fathers Salvatieeka, Ugakte and GttillerinI'; de Materga, in 1708. It is situated at the head waters oi the north-eastern arm of the Bay of Magdalena, on the Paoijic comt., at the foot of a rooky caiion opening to the west, about forty miles from the Harbor of Magda- lena. Here there is quite a settlement, composed principally of American and English sailors. They are chiefly occupied in capturing the whales which make their appearance in this harbor from the north about the month of December, give birth to their young, and leave for the north about the month of April. Their mode of capturing these animals is almost certain, though extremely dangerous to any not adepts. When the M^hale is found with its young, (called the calf,) the calf is first killed, being readily cap- tured. The mother will not leave her young, but hunts till she finds it, gets bewildered, and frequently throws it out of water to the height of twelve or fifteen feet ; becoming exhausted, she falls an easy prey to her pursuers. The bay, during the last thirty years, (it was known to but few before that time,) has been visited yearly by about eight vessels. The proceeds of each season are estimated at 180,000 gallons of oU. The settlers, in all about one hundred and forty souls, obtain a comfortable living from the employment given them by their annual visitors, the whalers, and are supplied by them with all necessary clothing. They cultivate orchards of fruit, make sugar and molasses from the cane they raise, and brandy and ^vine from the grapes which grow in great abundance. MISSION OF SAN JAVIER, In north latitude 2;")", was founded by Father Picolo, March 10, 1698, and built by Father Miguel del Parco in 1 7n7. It is a vaUey of good land, four leagues in extent. MISSION SANTA GERTRUDIO, In north latitude 29", founded in 1750 by Fathers Conway and Fernando Retzi, (ttie latter a German Jesuit,) is situated twenty- six miles from San Ignacio. It possesses an excellent well of water, and though lacking in agricultural lands, abounds in mineral wealth. The buildings are in an excellent state of preservation. The silver ornaments werei made for this mission by a practical miner and silversmith, Hernandez, and bear his name. MISSION SAN IGNACIO, In north latitude 2S'', was founded in 1728 by Father Juan Maria de Lugabdo, a Mexican Jesuit. It is situated in a valley, through which a large creek runs east by south, emptying into a lake about six miles in extent, and irrigating the land, which is well adapted tor cultivation. The buildings are in a good state of preservation, and part of them are occupied by an old gentleman and his family by the name of Venturo Arce. It is a charming site for a town, and about nine miles from a good harbor on the Pacific coast, called fcan Bertolomo. The volcano of "Los Vir- giues" is in sight. The mountains abound in gold quartz, veins and sulphates of copper. MISSION SAN BORJO, In north latitude 29'^, was founded in 1762 by Father Wenceslao LiMK, a u itive of Boheinia. It is situated about fifteen miles from 10 the gulf, opposite the Island of "Los Angelos de la Guarda." The land is well watered, and adapted to pastural, though not agricul- tural purposes. The mountains are full of minerals and good gold placer diggings. There are a few Indians living here, two of whom were the original founders-— Melchok and Teeesa, his wife. The husband has attained the great age of one hundred and eight years, and his wife that of one hundred and four years. They take great pride in showing to all visitors the book of registry containing the entry of their births, which they have carefully preserved. The mission was robbed of all its silver ornaments in 1 849, by emigrants on their wa,y to Upper California. MISSION SANTA MARIA, In north latitude -93^^', was founded in 1767 by Father Yictoria.vo Aruls. It is about thirty miles from the gulf, and sixty miles fiom San Borja. It has a stream of good water, and a harbor on the gulf side known as San Philipe de Jesus. At the harbor the lands are covered with a heavy growth of good timber, yellow pine, cedar, rosewood and acacia. The mission was abandoned by the whites from the hostility of the Indians. MISSION ROSARIO, In north latitude 30'^, was founded by Father Manuel Eodektgues in 1782. It is about two miles from the head waters of a large bay, called by some Seameron's Lagoon, and about sixteen miles from the Pacific coast ; a small but charming valley, covered with verdure, with a fine spring of water in its center. The country between the two last missions is said to abound in mineral wealth, but rough and rugged and little explored. The Indians, always hostile to the miners, have been almost exterminated diiring the last two years (1^6:5 and 1861) by the small-pox. 11 MISSION SANTA CATARINA, In north latitude 81° 3'^", is situated on a plain known as San Vincent Ferrer, about fifteen leagues from the Colorado River. The agricultural lands are extensive, and the country weU timbered. This mission was founded in 1795, and abandoned and completely destroyed in 1835, probably by the Indian tribes on the Coloradp who were very numerous at the time of its first settlement. MINERAL RESOURCES. The mining interests in Lower (California, now about being developed, have been up to this time entirely neglected, owing to the strong opposition of the missionaries, who urged that the miners, mostly taken from the very dregs of society, would intro- duce disorder and bad habits — 'in a word, all the vices unknown to the settlers. The mineral wealth of the territory has been in fact scarcely known, as the country has been never fully explored, and was almost abandoned for years. Under this head, I shall r.^ate only what came under the per- sonal observation of Don Ramox Navakko. This gentleman was commissioned under the Reform Laws, by the Mexican Government, February o, IS62, and directed to visit all the missions of the territory as far north as San Borja, and to take possession of all the manuscripts and " antiques" deemed useful for the history of Mexico, or as objects of curiosity for its museum. He was also instructed to make special investigation of all the lands susceptible of cultivation, and of all the mineral resources of the territory. 12 [translation.] "After a ten days' voyage on the national brig Lupita, he " arrived February 14, 1862, at Mulege, where he obtained animals " and other necessaries for his journey. Thence he proceeded by "land to the mission of San Ignacio, a distance of about thirty-one " leagues through the mountains. Five leagues from Mulege he "reached the plains of La Magdalena, a beautiful valley, eighteen "leagues in circumference, the site of the Jesuit mission of that " name. North of the plain is the place called Eondin, where are "yet to be seen the marks of orchards and gardens. Here, too, " the remains of an aqueduct, which the lapse of so me.ny years "has not yet destroyed, still exist. It is built of stone and cement, " and must have been a work of great merit in its day. It runs " along a rugged and steep mountain, and was supplied from the " E-ondin Creek. In the center of this plain, near the road at the " carion of the mountain, stand the ruins of a reservoir, nearly two " hundred and fifty feet in height, whence the land was irrigated ; " producing, as Father Clavigero said, coffee, tobacco, grapes, oran- ^' ges, figs, pomegranates, dates, and all kinds of grain. "In a word, each and every thing appertaining to the kingdom '• of Lower California, has been the result of long and patient work, " initiated one hundred and sixty years ago (when the last men- "tioned mission was founded). Before that time Nature ruled *' supreme. The various and continuous political dissensions which " have destroyed the vitality of the republic, have caused the aban- " donment of all the improvements of the territory. By a decree " of August 17, 1823, nine missions were suppressed and abandoned " in consequence of the settlements of Upper California. "The architecture of the churches of the mission, is of the San "Javier order, and the buildings are still in a good state of preser- "vation. Their silver ornaments and oil paintings have been " delivered to the Bishop of the diocese. The libraries contain ^' nothing but moth-eaten works. There are, however, some very "interesting registers of births, marriages and baptisms, which "have been in the possession of the Missions of Purisima, Santa ''Maria, Santa Gertrudio and San Borja, since their foundation. 13 "The temperature is mild and extremely healthy, in conse- ' quence of the peculiar geographical position of the land. The * Sea of Cortes lying on the east, and the Pacific on the west, a ' light breeze from the east prevails in the morning, and from the ' west in the afternoon, making it a delightful and healthy climate. ' The termination of the peninsula, at the Cape of San Lucas, is in ' 23*^ north latitude, and extends north to latitude 32"-' ; its average ' width is about ninety miles. " The minerals of San Ignacio district are mainly auriferous ; 'but marble and alabaster of three kinds are found in immense ' stratas on the gulf side of the Santa Maria Creek, facing the ' Island of Santa Marcus, only three miles from the landing. A ' ro9,d can easily be built from the quarries to the landing, as the 'country is perfectly level, and no obstructions of any account ' intervene. There are also in the same vicinity, as the Supreme ' Government is informed, an island of solid mass of gypsum, and ' a mountain of sulphur. " The ridge of mountains in the vicinity of Santa Gertrudes, is ' crossed by metaliferous veins containing different sulphurets, ' copper being the most abundant. Plenty of good pasture is to ' be found among the mountains. " The Mapimi Moimtain, four leagues distant from Santa Ger- * trude, is also crossed by many metaliferous veins. The land is 'auriferous, (called by the miners * tfeperaguay,') and is easily ' worked. Many of the low hills in this vicinity are crossed in all ' directions by gold-bearing quartz veins, and are worked by the ' few Indians living there, yielding from four to five ounces to the 'cargo (300 lbs.) Two Indians, the only inhabitants of San 'Borjas, pretend that on the Big Creek, near the Port of Los •Angelos, they find the paint for their faces, which we should ' judge was Vermillion ; and that in former times this place was ' visited by large bodies of Indians from the Colorado. " At Los Cabras there are also several veins of argentiferous "ores, in which the sulphurets of silver and lead prevail. 14 • "The Port of Trinidad is about nine leagues south-west of ' Santa Gertrude, and has a large and excellent anchorage. The ' entrance of its harbor is wide, sheltered from, all prevailing winds, * and from seven to ten fathoms deep. The exportation of the rich, ' auriferous quartz, found within thirteen leagues of the coast, ' would certainly be profitable, as the oust of extracting, transport- 'ing and shipping would be small. There would of course be ' some obstacles to surmount at the outset from, the scarcity of the ' population. "On the 18th of May, having finished the work for which we ' were commissioned by the Grovernment, the result of which is ' hereby reported, we returned in the brig Refugio^ and present this ' report as directed. " Liberty and Reform. "La Paz, April 14. 1862. (Signed) "RAMON NAVARRO." PEARL FISHERIES. In spite of the caprices of Fashion, and the perfection to which the art of imitating thera has been carried, pearls have always occupied, from the most remote times, a high position among arti- cles of luxury. History records that as Industry and Art won the primitive races from their nomadic style of living, pearls became an article of the commerce which arose am^ong them. The Bahrem. Islands were probably the first ever explored for pearls. The fol- lowing extract from the "History of the Discovery of the New World," will show the estimation of pearls in the sixteenth century, and the demand for them among the nobility of the European and Asiatic courts : " Christopher Columbits asks gold from the earth, and pearls "from the sea. Almost disheartened by the machinations and 15 '' intrigues of liis enemies, he was still zealous in maintaining the " interests of the Spanish Court, and the advantages to be derived "by the Spanish Government i'rom a conquest which promised "untold riches so easily to be acquiied. He was therefore rejoiced "at the sight of the pearl necklaces which the natives of the " Caribbean Sea presented to him, and which he sent to his protec- '' tress, the Queen Isabella. The Indians, on being asked whence *'they obtained the pearls wliich adorned the breasts, noses and "ears of their Sqnaw's, turning their backs to the Atlantic ()cean " and pointing to the horizon in the direction of a chain of high "mountains, said- -' Beyond that.' But Columbus died in igno- ' -ranee of the form of that continent, which he l^elieved to be the " eastern extremity of Asia ; and it was reserved for other more " fortunate navigators to discover and profit by the discovery of the " submarine treasures of the Caribbean Sea, the Bay of Panama " and the Gulf of CaHfornia " Historians relate that Coetes and his companions found among the treasures of Montezuma, great quantities of pearls, but none of them say whence they were obtained. It may be inferred from their silence that they were bought from the traders and fishers on the western coast between Acupulco and San Bias. As the Califor- nia pearls were unknown to the Court of the g]-eat Tenoxitlan, and were not much valued by the Californians themselves, the earliest fisheries were the origin of rapid fortunes to the pearl fishers of Sonora and Sinaloa, who during the one hundred and sixty years from the discovery of the peninsula and Father Salv.vtikbea's expedition, sought for them among the islands, gtdfs, bays and ports of the eastern side of the gulf, compelling the Yaqui and Mayo Indians to work for them. The missionaries forbade, under severe penalties, the mariners and soldiers in the service of the mission to fish for pearls ; but this prohibition was abrogated in 1768, when most of the Jesuits were exiled. Galvez made the first regulation concerning pearl fisheries, and charged the Captain Governor of Loreto with its execution. The duty of twenty per cent, imposed upon pearls, as belonging to the articles classified a? IG precious stones, was paid up to 11^8;"). The business of pearl diving is now charged with an exportation duty of twenty-five per cent. on each one hundred pounds of shell. (Decreed April 28, 1855.) The season for ^learl diving begins in May and lasts until about the end of October — that is, during the warm months, and while the sea is transparent. The fisheries are divided into three sectionB — the northern one, Mulege ; the center one, Loreto ; the southern one, La Pa%. From Mulege boats start for Conception Bay and Santa Ines Point. The best fisheries in this section are at Guadalupe, Las Hornillas, Santa Domingo, Amolares, Pocitos, Manglito and Punta Ines. Prom Loreto boats sail to the Islands of Carmen, Coronado Monserrete, Danzantes, Pvierta Eseondido, Islotes, San Bruno and Arroyo Hondo. Those from La Paz sail south for Cubu Plumo, (the last south- ern fishery,) thence north to Las Tinas, Punta Arenas, El Medano, Boca de la Salina, Tepetates, Ventana, El Pozo, Eosario, Coyote, Caval de San Juan, Nerjomucevo, Esperitor Santo and San Jos6. The business of pearl diving in 1855, of which an exact account was kept, employed twenty-five companies having three hundred and sixty-eight divers, eleven small schooners, nine boats and fifty canoes. The capital invested did not exceed $25,000. The results were as follows : — 69(*,000 pounds of shell, valued at 6 cents, . . $41,000 00 The pearls obtained from the shell sold for 23,800 00 Amoimt, $64,800 00 Deduct original outfit 25,000 00 Net profit, $39,800 00 Father Clavijeeo in his manuscript says that Don Manuel de Ozio, a discharged soldier from the presidio of Loreto, and at that time the wealthiest man in California, obtained in the years 1742 and 1743, four hundred pounds of pearls, but does not state their value. In another manuscript is found the following : " When pearls were first discovered, about the end of the six- '* teenth century, many of the inhabitants of New GaHcia, Culiacan 17 '^ and Sinaloa made fortunes by diving for them. Don Manuel de " Ozio, a soldier, son-in-law of the Captain Grovernor of California, " obtained his discharge and went to New Galioia. He there invest- " ed all his capital in purchasing a ship, obtaining divers and every- " thing required for pearl fishing. The first year he increased his "facilities, and the following year obtained one hundred and "twenty seven pounds of pearls; which though a good result, did "not compare with that of the year 1744. By this means he " acquired a large fortune." COPY OF A REPORT Showing the Impokts aoid Exports during the Year 1857, according to the official data. Foreign goods imported, amounted to _ .$ (i8,00() 00 Domestic goods " " "-- 50,000 00 1118,01)0 00 TEEEITOEIAL EXPORTS. Hides, 13,000 pieces, valued @ 25c. |82,f)00 00 Salt, -2,000 tons.--- 12,000 00 Cneese, 100,000 lbs., @ Sets., 8,0i)0 00 Dried Meat, 11,0()0 lbs., 060 00 Brown Sugar,... 28,500 lbs., @ I2i cts., 109S0 00 Dried Figs, ..82,500 lbs 1,300 00 Raisins, 28,500 lbs., 2,200 00 Soap, 2,610 lbs, 2610 00 Wine, - .54 bbls., -.:.- . 540 00 Dates, 20,000 lbs., 1200 00 Oranges, 22,000 M., 220 00 Salt Fish,-- -.1,150 lbs., 69 00 Brazil Wood, 150 tons, - --. 3,000 00 SilverOres, .,250 tons, cost, 5,000 00 Silver 2,000 marks, _- 16,000 00 Gold, 80 ounces, 1,120 00 Tortoise Shells, 300 1bs,-.- 6,000 00 Pearls, Value, -_ 21,750 00 Mother of Pearl (Concha), 495,700 lbs., @ 6 cts., 29,742 00 Total amount of exports, . _ _ - $154,891 00 18 It can safely be said, though positive data are not now at hand to prove the assertion, that the imports and exports during the last three years have increased to ten times the amonnt mentioned in the foregoing report, in consequence of the enormous discoveries of mineral wealth which have lately attracted the notice of the miners and capitalists of the Pacific coast. Copy of a Letter to the "Alta Californian." OUR LETTER FROM LA PAZ, LOWER CALIFOR- NIA. (From th(> K,csiJ(!nt Cori';'s;i(jncli-iit of the Alta.] La Paz, February 17th, 1865. THE CESSION QUESTION. Editors Alta ; Lower California, for its geographical position ; for its numerous spacious bays and safe harbors ; for its mineral wealth ; for its salubrious climate, and being as it is, the key to the outlet of the Colorado basin, is worth millions to the United States. How, then can pur Government tamely submit to see it pass into the possession of France ? Have we not claims against Mexico, the payment of which are more just and longer delayed than those put forth by France, and brought on by ner own aggressions ? What Florida is to the Gulf of Mexico and the Mississippi River, is, and more necessary, too, the peninsula of Lower Calitornia to our com- mercial prosperity in the Pacific Ocean. BAY OF MAGDALENA. Few persons in California are aware of the importance and extent of the Bay of Magdalena, its safe and easy entrance, its numerous arms and lagoons, comprising hundreds of miles of inland naviga- tion, with wealth enough swimming in its waters to employ a large population, thousands of whales yearly bring forth their young upon its banks ; millions of turtle lay their eggs npon its shores, while its prolific waters teem with myraids upon myraids of every class of fish. THE GULF COAST SHORE. The gulf coast of the Peninsula, from La Paz in latitu- 1 HISTORICAL OUTLINE LOWER CALIFORNIA, COMPILED BY 'h^ NE"W YORK, DECEMBER, 1865. i£b|Tork: E. S. DODGE & CO., BOOK AND .. OB PlilNTERS, 84 JOHN STREET.