f)[ass_ -1) C. ^ Q Book -n 5 3 - COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT Castles and Chateaux OF OLD TOURAINE AND THE LOIR I By F Author of UNTRY "^ '« I ' T O IT N Reprodiued Jrom pain!- Blanche M c 7A A 'Peasant Girl ofY'ourame L. C. PAGE & COMPANY 1906 Castles and Chateaux OF OLD TOURAINE AND THE LOIRE COUNTRY By Francis Milto U N Author of " Rambles in Normandy," " Rambles in Brittany," " Rambles on the Riviera," etc. TVith Many Illustrations /Reproduced from paintings made on the spot By Blanche McManus Boston L. C. PAGE & COMPANY 1906 LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two Conies Received AUG 24 1906 CLASS'«I< xxc:no. .3c^Q Copyright, igo6 By L. C. Page & Company (Incorporated) All rights 7-eserved First Impression, June, 1906 COLONIAL PRESS Electrotyped a7id Printed by C. H . Simonds &' Co. Boston, U.S.A. By Way of Introduction This book is not the result of ordinary con- ventional rambles, of sightseeing by day, and flying by night, but rather of leisurely wander- ings, for a somewhat extended period, along the banks of the Loire and its tributaries and through the countryside dotted with those splendid monuments of Renaissance architec- ture which have perhaps a more appealing in- terest for strangers than any other similar edifices wherever found. Before this book was projected, the conven- tional tour of the chateau country had been ^' done," Baedeker, Joanne and James's '' Lit- tle Tour " in hand. On another occasion An- gers, with its almost inconceivably real cas- tellated fortress, and Nantes, with its memories of the " Edict " and '' La Duchesse Anne," had been tasted and digested en route to a cer- tain little artist's village in Brittany. On another occasion, when we were headed due south, we lingered for a time in the upper vi By Way of Introduction valley, between " the little Italian city of Ne- vers ' ' and ' ' the most picturesque spot in the world " — Le Puy. But all this left certain ground to be cov- ered, and certain gaps to be filled, though the author's note-books were numerous and full to overflowing with much comment, and the ar- tist's portfolio was already bulging with its contents. So more note-books were bought, and, fol- lowing the genial Mark Twain's advice, an- other fountain pen and more crayons and sketch-books, and the author and artist set out in the beginning of a warm September to fill those gaps and to reduce, if possible, that series of rambles along the now flat and now rolling banks of the broad blue Loire to something like consecutiveness and uniformity ; with what result the reader may judge. Contents Bt Way of Introduction . I. A General Survey II. The Orl:^annais III. The Blaisois and the Sologne IV. Chambord . . . o V. Cheverny, Beauregard, and Chaumont VI. Touraine : The Garden Spot of France VII. Amboise .... VIII. Chenonceaux . IX. LOCHES .... X. Tours and About There XI. Luynes and Langeais . XII. AzAY - LE - RiDEAU, USSE, AND XIII. Anjou and Bretagne . XIV. South of the Loire XV. Berry and George Sand's Country XVI. The Upper Loire . Index .... Chinon PAGE V 1 30 56 94 110 128 148 171 188 203 221 241 273 301 313 330 337 List of Illustrations A Peasant Girl of Touraine Itinerary of the Loire (Map) A Lace - maker of the Upper Loire The Loire Chateaux (Map) The Ancient Provinces of the Loire Val LEY AND Their Capitals (Map) The Loire near La Charit:^ . COIFFES OF AmBOISE AND ORLEANS The Chateaux of the Loire (Map Environs of Orleans (Map) The Loiret . . . The Loire at Meung Beaugency .... Arms of the City of Blois The Riverside at Blois . Signature of Francois Premier Cypher of Anne de Bretagne, at Blois Arms of Louis XIL .... Central Doorway, Chateau de Blois . facing The Chateaux of Blois (Diagram) Cypher of Franqois Premier and Claude of France, at Blois Native Types in the Sologne Donjon of Montrichard . . . facing Arms of Franqois Premier, at Chambord Plan of Chateau de Chambord Chateau de Chambord .... facing ix PAGE Frontispiece facing facing facing facing facing facing facing facing facing 1 4 9 15 18 20 30. 39 42 46 50 58 58 60 62 65 66^ 71 72 89 92 ^ 99 103 104 List of Illustrations . 113 facing 116 . 118 facing 134 facing 142 facing 148 PAGE Chateau de Cheveiny •. . . . facing 110 Cheverny - suR - Loire . . . Chaumont Signature of Diane ^e Poitiers . The Loire in Touraine . The Vintage in Touraine Chateau d'Amboise .... Sculpture from the Chapelle de St. Hubert facing 164 Cypher of Anne de Bketagne, Hotel de ViLLE, Amboise 168 Chateau de Chenonceaux . . . facing 178 Chateau de Chenonceaux (Diagram) . . . 179 Loches 189 Loches and Its Church .... facing 192 Sketch Plan of Loches 198 St. Ours, Loches facing 198 Tours facing 202 Arms of the Printers, A vocats, and Inn- keepers, Tours 205 Scene in the Quartier de la Cath^drale, Tours facing 208 Plessis - LES - Tours in the Time of Louis XI. . 213 Environs op Tours (Map) 219 A Vineyard of Vouvray . . . facing 222 Medieval Stairway and the Chateau de LuYNES facing 224 Ruins of Cinq -Mars facing 228 Chateau de Langeais .... facing 232 Arms of Louis XII. and Anne de Bretagne . 237 Chateau d'Azay-le-Rideau . . . facing 244 Chateau d'Ussi^ facing 248 The Roof-tops of Chinon . . . facing 252 Rabelais 255 Chateau de Chinon facing 258 Cuisines, Fontevrault 265 List of Illustrations XI Chateau de Saumur The Fonts de Ci Chateau d'Angeks Environs of Nantes (Map) Donjon of the Chateau de Clisson Berry (Map) .... La Tour, Sancerre . Chateau de Gien Chateau de Valenqay Gateway of Mehun-sur -Yevre Le Carrior Dor^, Romorantin IEglise S. Aignan, Cosne . PouiLLY-suR -Loire Porte du Croux, Nevers . . facing facing facing facing facing facing facing facing facing PAGE 276 284 288 297 306 313 317 318 322 324 325 331 332 334 / c/e GrotK .OACHATEAUDUN V^ \ V.v) " "S-n=,?<^"-'V!5!^ str'Si AUXERR& montarcis joignV //eofe t^ A/o/rmoi:!/eP^ lled'Yeu Itinerary LOIRE /0X0 30 40 SO /Ccfom. S^oute //e 'J'Oliro: r.ftt COURDON Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and the Loire Country CHAPTER I. A GENERAL SUEVEY Any account of the Loire and of the towns along its banks must naturally have for its chief mention Touraine and the long line of splendid feudal and Renaissance chateaux which reflect themselves so gloriously in its current. The Loire possesses a certain fascination and charm which many other more commer- cially great rivers entirely lack, and, while the element of absolute novelty cannot perforce be claimed for it, it has the merit of appeal- ing largely to the lover of the romantic and the picturesque. 1 2 Old Touraine and the Loire Country A French writer of a hundred years ago dedi- cated his work on Touraine to " Le Baron de Langeais, le Vicomte de Beaumont, le Marquis de Beauregard, le Comte de Fontenailles, le Comte de Jouffroy-Gonsans, le Due de Luynes, le Comte de Vouvray, le Comte de Villeneuve, et als.; '' and he might have continued with a directory of all the descendants of the noblesse of an earlier age, for he afterward grouped them under the general category of " Proprie- taires des fortresses et chateaux les plus re- marquables — au point de vue Jiistorique ou architectural." He was fortunate in being able, as he said, to have had access to their '^ papier s de fa- mille/' their souvenirs, and to have been able to interrogate them in person. Most of his facts and his gossip concerning the personalities of the later generations of those who inhabited these magnificent estab- lishments have come down to us through later writers, and it is fortunate that this should be the case, since the present-day aspect of the chateaux is ever changing, and one who views them to-day is chagrined when he discovers, for instance, that an iron-trussed, red-tiled wash-house has been built on the banks of the Cosson before the magnificent chateau of A General Survey Chambord, and that somewhere within the con- fines of the old castle at Loches a shopkeeper has hung out his shingle, announcing a newly discovered dungeon in his own basement, acci- dentally come upon when digging a well. Balzac, Rabelais, and Descartes are the lead- ing literary celebrities of Tours, and Balzac's * ' Le Lys dans la Vallee ' ' will give one a more delightful insight into the old life of the Tou- rangeaux than whole series of guide-books and shelves of dry histories. Blois and its counts. Tours and its bishops, and Amboise and its kings, to say nothing of Fontevrault, redolent of memories of the Plantagenets, Nantes and its famous " Edict," and its equally infamous '' Revocation," have left vivid impress upon all students of French history. Others will perhaps remember Nantes for Dumas 's brilliant descriptions of the out- come of the Breton conspiracy. All of us have a natural desire to know more of historic ground, and whether we make a start by entering the valley of the Loire at the luxurious midway city of Tours, and follow the river first to the sea and then to the source, or make the journey from source to mouth, or vice versa, it does not matter in the least. We traverse the same ground and we meet the 4 Old Touraine and the Loire Country same varying conditions as we advance a hun- dred kilometres in either direction. Tours, for example, stands for all that is typical of the sunny south. Prune and palm trees thrust themselves forward in strong con- trast to the cider-apples of the lower Seine. Below Tours one is almost at the coast, and the tables d'hote are abundantly supplied with sea-food of all sorts. Above Tours the Or- leannais is typical of a certain well-to-do, mat- ter-of-fact existence, neither very luxurious nor very difficult. Nevers is another step and resembles some- what the opulence of Burgundy as to condi- tions of life, though the general aspect of the city, as well as a great part of its history, is Italian through and through. The last great step begins at Le Puy, in the great volcanic Massif Centrale, where condi- tions of life, if prosperous, are at least harder than elsewhere. Such are the varying characteristics of the towns and cities through which the Loire flows. They run the whole gamut from gay to earnest and solemn; from the ease and comfort of the country around Tours, almost sub-tropical in its softness, to the grime and smoke of busy A Lace-maker 0} the Upper Loire A G-eneral Survey St. Etienne, and the chilliness and rigours of a mountain winter at Le Puy. These districts are all very full of memories of events which have helped to build up the solidarity of France of to-day, though the Nantois still proudly proclaims himself a Breton, and the Tourangeau will tell you that his is the tongue, above all others, which speaks the purest French, — and so on through the whole category, each and every citizen of a petit pays living up to his traditions to the fullest extent possible. In no other journey in France, of a similar length, will one see as many varying contrasts in conditions of life as he will along the length of the Loire, the broad, shallow river which St. Martin, Charles Martel, and Louis XL, the typical figures of church, arms, and state, came to know so well. Du Bellay, a poet of the Eenaissance, has sung the praises of the Loire in a manner un- approached by any other topographical poet, if one may so call him, for that is what he really was in this particular instance. There is a great deal of patriotism in it all, too, and certainly no sweet singer of the present day has even approached these lines, 6 Old Touraine and the Loire Country which are eulogistic without being fulsome and fervent without being lurid. The verses have frequently been rendered into English, but the following is as good as any, and better than most translations, though it is one of those fragments of " newspaper verse " whose authors are lost in obscurity. « Mightier to me the house my fathers made, Than your audacious heads, O Halls of Rome ! More than immortal marbles undecayed, The thin sad slates that cover up my home ; More than your Tiber is my Loire to me, More Palatine my little Lyr6 there ; And more than all the winds of all the sea, The quiet kindness of the Angevin air." In history the Loire valley is rich indeed, from the days of the ancient Counts of Tou- raine to those of Mazarin, who held forth at Nevers. Touraine has well been called the heart of the old French monarchy. Provincial France has a charm never known to Paris-dwellers. Balzac and Flaubert were provincials, and Dumas was a city-dweller, — and there lies the difference between them. Balzac has written most charmingly of Tou- raine in many of his books, in " Le Lys dans la Vallee " and " Le Cure de Tours " in par- ticular; not always in complimentary terms. A General Survey- either, for he has said that the Tourangeaux will not even inconvenience themselves to go in search of pleasure. This does not bespeak indolence so much as philosophy, so most of us will not cavil. George Sand's country lies a little to the southward of Touraine, and Berry, too, as the authoress herself has said, has a climate *' souple et chaud, avec pluie abondant et courte." The architectural remains in the Loire val- ley are exceedingly rich and varied. The feu- dal system is illustrated at its best in the great walled chateau at Angers, the still inhabited and less grand chateau at Langeais, the ruins at Cinq-Mars, and the very scanty remains of Plessis-les-Tours. The ecclesiastical remains are quite as great. The churches are, many of them, of the first rank, and the great cathedrals at Nantes, An- gers, Tours, and Orleans are magnificent ex- amples of the church-builders' art in the mid- dle ages, and are entitled to rank among the great cathedrals, if not actually of the first class. With modern civic and other public build- ings, the case is not far different. Tours has a gorgeous Hotel de Ville, its architecture be- ing of the most luxuriant of modern French 8 Old Touraine and the Loire Country Renaissance, while the railway stations, even, at both Tours and Orleans, are models of what railway stations should be, and in addition are decoratively beautiful in their appointments and arrangements, — which most railway sta- tions are not. Altogether, throughout the Loire valley there is an air of prosperity which in a more vigorous climate is often lacking. This in spite of the alleged tendency in what is com- monly known as a relaxing climate toward laisser-aller. Finally, the picturesque landscape of the Loire is something quite different from the harder, grayer outlines of the north. All is of the south, warm and ruddy, and the wooded banks not only refine the crudities of a flat shore-line, but form a screen or barrier to the flowering charms of the examples of Renais- sance architecture which, in Touraine, at least, are as thick as leaves in Vallambrosa. Starting at Gien, the valley of the Loire be- gins to offer those monumental chateaux which have made its fame as the land of castles. From the old fortress-chateau of Gien to the Chateau de Clisson, or the Logis de la Duchesse Anne at Nantes, is one long succession of florid masterpieces, not to be equalled elsewhere. A General Survey 9 The true chateau region of Touraine — by which most people usually comprehend the Loire chateaux — commences only at Blois. Here the edifices, to a great extent, take on these superfine residential attributes which were the glory of the Eenaissance period of French architecture. Both above and below Touraine, at Mont- THE LOIRE CHATEAUX' • FIRST CLASS "^ , © SECOND ■>■> • THIRD ■»» =^ ROUTES •--. (RAILWAYS richard, at Leches, and Beaugency, are still to be found scattering examples of feudal for- tresses and donjons which are as representa- tive of their class as are the best Norman struc- tures of the same era, the great fortresses of Arques, Falaise, Domfront, and Les Andelys being usually accounted as the types which gave the stimulus to similar edifices elsewhere. In this same versatile region also, beginning 10 Old Touraine and the Loire Country perhaps with the Orleannais, are a vast number of religious monuments equally celebrated. For instance, the church of St. Benoit-sur- Loire is one of the most important Roman- esque churches in all France, and the cathedral of St. Gatien, with its " bejewelled facade," at Tours, the twin-spired St. Maurice at An- gers, and even the pompous, and not very good Gothic, edifice at Orleans (especially note- worthy because its crypt is an ancient work anterior to the Capetian dynasty) are all won- derfully interesting and imposing examples of mediaeval ecclesiastical architecture. Three great tributaries enter the Loire below Tours, the Cher, the Indre, and the Vienne. The first has for its chief attractions the Re- naissance chateaux St. Aignan and Chenon- ceaux, the Roman remains of Chabris, Thezee, and Largay, the Romanesque churches of Selles and St. Aignan, and the feudal donjon of Montrichard. The Indre possesses the cha- teau of Azay-le-Rideau and the sombre for- tresses of Montbazon and Loches; while the Vienne depends for its chief interest upon the galaxy of fortress-chateaux at Chinon. The Loire is a mighty river and is navigable for nearly nine hundred kilometres of its length, almost to Le Puy, or, to be exact, to A General Survey 11 the little town of Vorey in the Department of the Haute Loire. At Orleans, Blois, or Tours one hardly real- izes this, much less at Nevers. The river ap- pears to be a great, tranquil, docile stream, with scarce enough water in its bed to make a respectable current, leaving its beds and bars of sable and cailloux bare to the sky. The scarcity of water, except at occasional flood, is the principal and obvious reason for the absence of water-borne traffic, even though a paternal ministerial department of the gov- ernment calls the river navigable. At the times of the grandes crues there are four metres or more registered on the big scale at the Pont d'Ancenis, while at other times it falls to less than a metre, and when it does there is a mere rivulet of water which trickles through the broad river-bottom at Chaumont, or Blois, or Orleans. Below Ancenis naviga- tion is not so difficult, but the current is more strong. From Blois to Angers, on the right bank, extends a long dike which carries the roadway beside the river for a couple of hundred kilo- metres. This is one of the charms of travel by the Loire. The only thing usually seen on the bosom of the river, save an occasional fish- 12 Old Touraine and the Loire Country ing punt, is one of those great flat-bottomed ferry-boats, with a square sail hung on a yard amidships, such as Turner always made an accompaniment to his Loire pictures, for con- ditions of traffic on the river have not greatly changed. Whenever one sees a barge or a boat worthy of classification with those one finds on the rivers of the east or north, or on the great canals, it is only about a quarter of the usual size; so, in spite of its great navigable length, the waterway of the Loire is to be considered more as a picturesque and healthful element of the landscape than as a commercial prop- osition. Where the great canals join the river at Or- leans, and from Chatillon to Eoanne, the traffic increases, though more is carried by the canal- boats on the Canal Lateral than by the barges on the Loire. It is only on the Loire between Angers and Nantes that there is any semblance of river traffic such as one sees on most of the other great waterways of Europe. There is a con- siderable traffic, too, which descends the Maine, particularly from Angers downward, for An- gers with its Italian skies is usually thought of, and really is to be considered, as a Loire A General Survey 13 town, though it is actually on the banks of the Maine some miles from the Loire itself. One thousand or more bateaux make the as- cent to Angers from the Loire at La Pointe each year, all laden with a miscellaneous cargo of merchandise. The Sarthe and the Loir also bring a notable agricultural traffic to the greater Loire, and the smaller confluents, the Dive, the Thouet, the Authion, and the Layon, all go to swell the parent stream until, when it reaches Nantes, the Loire has at last taken on something of the aspect of a well-ordered and useful stream, characteristics which above Nantes are painfully lacking. Because of its lack of commerce the Loire is in a certain way the most noble, magnificent, and aristocratic river of France; and so, too, it is also in re- spect to its associations of the past. It has not the grandeur of the Rhone when the spring freshets from the Jura and the Swiss lakes have filled it to its banks; it has not the burning activity of the Seine as it bears its thousands of boat-loads of produce and merchandise to and from the Paris market; it has not the prettiness of the Thames, nor the legendary aspect of the Rhine; but in a way it combines something of the features of all, and has, in addition, a tone that is all its 14 Old Touraine and the Loire Country own, as it sweeps along through its countless miles of ample curves, and holds within its embrace all that is best of mediaeval and Ee- naissance France, the period which built up the later monarchy and, who shall not say, the present prosperous republic. Throughout most of the river's course, one sees, stretching to the horizon, row upon row of staked vineyards with fruit and leaves in luxuriant abundance and of all rainbow col- ours. The peasant here, the worker in the vineyards, is a picturesque element. He is not particularly brilliant in colouring, but he is usually joyous, and he invariably lives in a well-kept and brilliantly environed habitation and has an air of content and prosperity amid the well-beloved treasures of his household. The Loire is essentially a river of other days. Truly, as Mr. James has said, ''It is the very model of a generous, beneficent stream ... a wide river which you may fol- low by a wide road is excellent company." The Frenchman himself is more flowery: ^' C'est la plus nohle riviere de France. Son domaine est immense et magnifique." The Loire is the longest river in France, and the only one of the four great rivers whose basin or watershed lies wholly within French A General Survey 15 yN r^ORLE/iNAlsV-. (^<^^ t/^ r^ BERRY V-VT-V 1 THE ANCIENT \auve. rgnu \ PEOVINCES OF THE / \j^\ LOIEE VALLEY \J\jL^ I AND THEIE ijLANGUEDOC / CAPITALS X Bretagne .... Eennes Anjou Angers Touraine . Tours OrMannais Orleans Berry Bourges Nivernais Nevers Bourbonnais Moulins Lyonnais . Lyon Bourgogne Dijon Auvergne Clermont-Ferrand Languedoc Toulouse 16 Old Touraine and the Loire Country- territory. It moreover traverses eleven prov- inces. It rises in a fissure of granite rock at the foot of the Gerbier-de-Jonc, a volcanic cone in the mountains of the Vivarais, a hundred kilometres or more south of Lyons. In three kilometres, approximately two miles, the little torrent drops a thousand feet, after receiving to its arms a tiny affluent coming from the Croix de Monteuse. For twelve kilometres the river twists and turns around the base of the Vivarais moun- tains, and finally enters a gorge between the rocks, and mingles with the waters of the little Lac d'Issarles, entering for the first time a flat lowland plain like that through which its course mostly runs. The monument-crowned pinnacles of Le Puy and the inverted bowl of Puy-de-D6me rise high above the plain and point the way to Roanne, where such activity as does actually take place upon the Loire begins. Navigation, classed officially as " ftottable," merely, has already begun at Vorey, just be- low Le Puy, but the traffic is insignificant. Meantime the streams coming from the di- rection of St. Etienne and Lyons have been added to the Loire, but they do not much increase its bulk. St. Galmier, the source dear A General Survey 17 to patrons of tables d'hote on account of its palatable mineral water, which is about the only decent drinking-water one can buy at a reasonable price, lies but a short distance away to the right. At St. Eambert the plain of Forez is entered, and here the stream is enriched by numberless rivulets which make their way from various sources through a thickly wooded country. From Roanne onward, the Canal Lateral keeps company with the Loire to Chatillon, not far from Orleans. Before reaching Nevers, the Canal du Niver- nais branches off to the left and joins the Loire with the Yonne at Auxerre. Daudet tells of the life of the Canal du Nivernais, in ' ' La Belle Nivernaise," in a manner too convincingly graphic for any one else to attempt the task, in fiction or out of it. Like the Tartarin books, " La Belle Nivernaise " is distinctly local, and forms of itself an excellent guide to a little known and little visited region. At Nevers the topography changes, or rather, the characteristics of the life of the country round about change, for the topog- raphy, so far as its profile is concerned, re- mains much the same for three-fourths the length of this great river. Nevers, La Charite, 18 Old Touraine and the Loire Country Sancerre, Grien, and Cosne follow in quick suc- cession, all reminders of a historic past as vivid as it was varied. From the heights of Sancerre one sees a wonderful history-making panorama before him. Caesar crossed the Loire at Gien, the Franks forded the river at La Charite, when they first went against Aquitaine, and Charles the Bald came sadly to grief on a certain occasion at Pouilly. It is here that the Loire rises to its greatest flood, and hundreds of times, so history tells, from 490 to 1866, the fickle river has caused a devastation so great and terrible that the memory of it is not yet dead. This hardly seems possible of this usually tranquil stream, and there have always been scoffers. Madame de Sevigne wrote in 1675 to M. de Coulanges (but in her case perhaps it was mere well-wishing), '^ La belle Loire, elle est un pen sujette a se deborder, mais elle en est plus douce." Ancient writers were wont to consider the inundations of the Loire as a punishment from Heaven, and even in later times the supersti- tion — if it was a superstition — still remained. In 1825, when thousands of charcoal-burners S&s^ ^^ •■J^ J^ « -s; O !3 ^-4 & ^ <^ o ^ ?^ ■?v •"Si s-i- ^ ^ A General Survey 19 (charbonniers) were all but ruined, they peti- tioned the government for assistance. The official who had the matter in charge, and whose name — fortunately for his fame — does not appear to have been recorded, replied simply that the flood was a periodical condition of affairs which the Almighty brought about as occasion demanded, with good cause, and for this reason he refused all assistance. Important public works have done much to prevent repetitions of these inundations, but the danger still exists, and always, in a wet season, there are those dwellers along the riv- er's banks who fear the rising flood as they would the plague. Chatillon, with its towers ; Gien, a busy hive of industry, though with a historic past ; Sully ; and St. Benoit-sur-Loire, with its unique double transepted church; all pass in rapid review, and one enters the ancient capital of the Or- leannais quite ready for the new chapter which, in colouring, is to be so different from that devoted to the upper valley. From Orleans, south, one passes through a veritable wonderland of fascinating charms. Chateaux, monasteries, and great civic and ecclesiastical monuments pass quickly in turn. Then comes Touraine which all love, the 20 Old Touraine and the Loire Country- river meantime having grown no more swift or ample, nor any more sluggish or attenuated. It is simply the same characteristic flow which one has known before. The landscape only is changing, while the fruits and flowers, and the trees and foliage are more luxuriant, and the great chateaux are more numerous, splendid, and imposing. Of his well-beloved Touraine, Balzac wrote: " Do not ask me why I love Touraine; I love it not merely as one loves the cradle of his birth, nor as one loves an oasis in a desert, but as an artist loves his art." Blois, with its bloody memories; Chaumont, splendid and retired; Chambord, magnificent, pompous, and bare; Amboise, with its great tower high above the river, follow in turn till the Loire makes its regal entree into Tours. '' What a spectacle it is," wrote Sterne in '' Tristram Shandy," '' for a traveller who journeys through Touraine at the time of the vintage. ' ' And then comes the final step which brings the traveller to where the limpid waters of the Loire mingle with the salty ocean, and what a triumphant meeting it is ! Most of the cities of the Loire possess but one bridge, but Tours has three, and, as be- Coifjes oj Amhoise and Orleans A Gi-eneral Survey 21 comes a great provincial capital, sits enthroned upon the river-bank in mighty splendour. The feudal towers of the Chateau de Luynes are almost opposite, and Cinq-Mars, with its pagan ' ' pile ' ' and the ruins of its feudal castle high upon a hill, points the way down-stream like a mariner's beacon. Langeais follows, and the Indre, the Cher, and the Vienne, all ample and historic rivers, go to swell the flood which passes under the bridges of Saumur, Ancenis, and Fonts de Ce. From Tours to. the ocean, the Loire comes to its greatest amplitude, though even then, in spite of its breadth, it is, for the greater part of the year, impotent as to the functions of a great river. Below Angers the Loire receives its first great affluent coming from the country lying back of the right bank: the Maine itself is a considerable river. It rises far up in the Breton peninsula, and before it empties itself into the Loire, it has been aggrandized by three great tributaries, the Loir, the Sarthe, and the Mayenne. Here in this backwater of the Loire, as one might call it, is as wonderful a collection of natural beauties and historical chateaux as on the Loire itself. Chateaudun, Mayenne, and 22 Old Touraine and the Loire Country Vendome are historic ground of superlative interest, and the great castle at Chateaudun is as magnificent in its way as any of the monu- ments of the Loire. Vendome has a Hotel de Ville which is an admirable relic of a feudal edifice, and the clocher of its church, which dominates many square leagues of country, is counted as one of the most perfectly dis- posed church spires in existence, as lovely, al- most, as Texier's masterwork at Chartres, or the needle-like fleches at Strasburg or Frei- burg in Breisgau. The Maine joins the Loire just below Angers, at a little village significantly called La Pointe. Below La Pointe are St. Georges-sur-Loire, and three chateaux de commerce which give their names to the three principal Angevin vineyards: Chateau Serrand, I'Epinay, and Chevigne. Vineyard after vineyard, and chateau after chateau follow rapidly, until one reaches the Ponts de Ce with their petite ville, — ail very delightful. Not so the bridge at Ancenis, where the flow of water is marked daily on a huge black and white scale. The bridge is quite the ugliest wire-rope affair to be seen on the Loire, and one is only too glad to leave it behind, A General Survey though it is with a real regret that he parts from Ancenis itself. Some years ago one could go from Angers to St. Nazaire by boat. It must have been a magnificent trip, extraordinarily calm and se- rene, amid an abundance of picturesque de- tails; old chateaux and bridges in strong con- trast to the prairies of Touraine and the Or- leannais. One embarked at the foot of the stupendously towered chateau of King Eene, and for a petite heure navigated the Maine in the midst of great chalands, fussy little remorqueurs and barques until La Pointe was reached, when the Loire was followed to Nantes and St. Nazaire. To-day this fine trip is denied one, the boats going only so far as La Pointe. Below Angers the Loire flows around and about a veritable archipelago of islands and islets, cultivated with all the luxuriance of a back-yard garden, and dotted with tiny ham- lets of folk who are supremely happy and con- tent with their lot. Some currents which run behind the islands are swift flowing and impetuous, while others are practically elongated lakes, as dead as those lomes which in certain places flank the Saone and the Rhone. 24 Old Touraine and the Loire Country All these various branches are united as the Loire flows between the piers of the ungainly bridge of the Chemin-de-fer de Niort as it crosses the river at Chalonnes. Champtoce and Montjean follow, each with an individuality all its own. Here the com- merce takes on an increased activity, thanks to the great national waterway known as the '' Canal de Brest a Nantes." Here at the busy port of Montjean — which the Angevins still spell and pronounce Montejean — the Loire takes on a breadth and grandeur similar to the great rivers in the western part of America. Montjean is dominated by a fine ogival church, with a battery of arcs-boutants which are a joy in themselves. On the other bank, lying back of a great plain, which stretches away from the river it- self, is Champtoce, pleasantly situated on the flank of a hill and dominated by the ruins of a thirteenth-century chateau which belonged to the cruel Gilles de Retz, somewhat apocry- phally known to history as ' ' Barbe-bleu ' ' — not the Bluebeard of the nursery tale, who was of Eastern origin, but a sort of Occidental suc- cessor who was equally cruel and bloodthirsty in his attitude toward his whilom wives. From this point on one comes within the X . A General Survey 25 sphere of influence of Nantes, and there is more or less of a suburban traffic on the rail- way, and the plodders cityward by road are more numerous than the mere vagabonds of the countryside. The peasant women whom one meets wear a curious bonnet, set on the head well to the fore, with wings at the side folded back quite like the pictures that one sees of the mediaeval dames of these parts, a survival indeed of the middle ages. The Loire becomes more and more animated and occasionally there is a great tow of boats like those that one sees continually passing on the lower Seine. Here the course of the Loire takes on a singular aspect. It is filled with long flat islands, sometimes in archipelagos, but often only a great flat prairie surrounded by a tranquil canal, wide and deep, and with little resemblance to the mistress Loire of a hundred or two kilometres up-stream. All these isles are in a high state of cultivation, though wholly worked with the hoe and the spade, both of them of a primitiveness that might have come down from Bible times; rare it is to see a horse or a harrow on these ^' bouquets of ver- dure surrounded by waves." Near Oudon is one of those monumental 26 Old Touraine and the Loire Country follies which one comes across now and then in most foreign countries : a great edifice which serves no useful purpose, and which, were it not for certain redeeming features, would be a sorry thing indeed. The " Folie- Siffait," a citadel which perches itself high upon the summit of a hill, was — and is — an amusette built by a public-spirited man of Nantes in order that his workmen might have something to do in a time of a scarcity of work. It is a bizarre, incredible thing, but the motive which inspired its erection was most worthy, and the roadway running beneath, piercing its foundation walls, gives a theatrical effect which, in a way, makes it the picturesque rival of many a more famous Rhine castle. The river valley widens out here at Oudon, practically the frontier of Bretagne and Anjou. The railroad pierces the rock walls of the river with numerous tunnels along the right bank, and the Vendean country stretches far to the southward in long rolling hills quite unlike any of the characteristics of other parts of the valley. Finally, the vast plain of Mauves comes into sight, beautifully coloured with a white and iron-stained rocky background which is startlingly picturesque in its way, if not A General Survey 27 wholly beautiful according to the majority of standards. Next comes what a Frenchman has called a '' tumultuous vision of Nantes." To-day the very ancient and historic city which grew up from the Portus Namnetum and the Condivic- num of the Romans is indeed a veritable tumult of chimneys, masts, and locomotives. But all this will not detract one jot from its reputation of being one of the most delightful of provincial capitals, and the smoke and ac- tivity of its port only tend to accentuate a note of colour that in the whole itinerary of the Loire has been but pale. Below Nantes the Loire estuary has turned the surrounding country into a little Holland, where fisherfolk and their boats, with sails of red and blue, form charming symphonies of pale colour. In the cabarets along its shores there is a strange medley of peasants, sea- farers, and fisher men and women. Not so cos- mopolitan a crew as one sees in the harbour- side cabarets at Marseilles, or even Le Havre, but sufficiently strange to be a fascination to one who has just come down from the head- waters. The '' Section Maritime," from Nantes to the sea, is a matter of some sixty kilometres. 28 Old Touraine and the Loire Country Here the boats increase in number and size. They are known as gahares, chalands, and al- leges, and go down with the river-current and return on the incoming ebb, for here the river is tidal. Gray and green is the aspect at the Loire's source, and green and gray it still is, though of a decidedly different colour-value, at St. Nazaire, below Nantes, the real deep-water port of the Loire. By this time the river has amplified into a broad estuary which is lost in the incoming and outgoing tides of the Bay of Biscay. For nearly a thousand kilometres the Loire has wound its way gently and broadly through rocky escarpments, fertile plains, populous and luxurious towns, — all of it historic ground, — by stately chateaux and through vineyards and fruit orchards, with a placid grandeur. Now it becomes more or less prosaic and matter-of-fact, though in a way no less inter- esting, as it takes on some of the attributes of the outside world. This outline, then, approximates somewhat a portrait of the Loire. It is the result of many pilgrimages enthusiastically undertaken; a long contemplation of the charms of perhaps A General Survey 29 the most beautiful river in France, from its source to its mouth, at all seasons of the year. The riches and curios of the cities along its banks have been contemplated with pleasure, intermingled with a memory of many stirring scenes of the past, but it is its chateaux that make it famous. The story of the chateaux has been told be^ fore in hundreds of volumes, but only a per- sonal view of them will bring home to one the manners and customs of one of the most luxu- rious periods of life in the France of other days. CHAPTER II. THE OKLEANISrAIS Op the many travelled English and Ameri- cans who go to Paris, how few visit the Loire valley with its glorious array of mediasval and Renaissance chateaux. No part of France, ex- cept Paris, is so accessible, and none is so com- fortably travelled, whether by road or by rail. At Orleans one is at the very gateway of this splendid, bountiful, region, the lower val- ley of the Loire. Here the river first takes on a complexion which previously it had lacked, for it is only when the Loire becomes the boundary-line between the north and the south that one comes to realize its full im- portance. The Orleannais, like many another province of mid-France, is a region where plenty awaits rich and poor alike. Not wholly given over to agriculture, nor yet wholly to manufacturing, it is without that restless activity of the 30 The Orleannais 31 frankly industrial centres of the north. In spite of this, though, the Orleannais is not idle. Orleans is the obvious pointe de depart for all the wonderland of the Renaissance which is to follow, but itself and its immediate sur- roundings have not the importance for the visitor, in spite of the vivid historical chapters which have been written here in the past, that many another less famous city possesses. By this is meant that the existing monuments of history are by no means as numerous or splen- did here as one might suppose. Not that they are entirely lacking, but rather that they are of a different species altogether from that array of magnificently planned chateaux which line the banks of the Loire below. To one coming from the north the entrance to the Orleannais will be emphatically marked. It is the first experience of an atmosphere which, if not characteristically or climatically of the south, is at least reminiscent thereof, with a luminosity which the provinces of old France farther north entirely lack. As Lavedan, the Academicien, says : ' ' Here all focuses itself into one great picture, the combined romance of an epoch. Have you not been struck with a land where the clouds, the 32 Old Touraine and the Loire Country atmosphere, the odour of the soil, and the breezes from afar, all comport, one with an- other, in true and just proportions'? " This is the Orleannais, a land where was witnessed the morning of the Valois, the full noon of Louis XIV., and the twilight of Louis XVI. The Orleannais formed a distinct part of mediseval France, as it did, ages before, of western Gaul. Of all the provinces through which the Loire flows, the Orleannais is as pro- lific as any of great names and greater events, and its historical monuments, if not so splendid as those in Touraine, are no less rare. Orleans itself contains many remarkable Gothic and Eenaissance constructions, and not far away is the ancient church of the old abbey of Notre Dame de Clery, one of the most his- toric and celebrated shrines in the time of the superstitious Louis XL; while innumerable mediaeval villes and ruined fortresses plenti- fully besprinkle the province. One characteristic possessed by the Orlean- nais differentiates it from the other outlying provinces of the old monarchy. The people and the manners and customs of this great and important duchy were allied, in nearly all things, with the interests and events of the capital itself, and so there was always a lack The Orleannais 33 of individuality, which even to-day is notice- ably apparent in the Orleans capital. The shops, hotels, cafes, and the people themselves might well be one of the quartiers of Paris, so like are they in general aspect. The notable Parisian character of the in- habitants of Orleans, and the resemblance of the people of the surrounding country to those of the He of France, is due principally to the fact that the Orleannais was never so isolated as many others of the ancient provinces. It was virtually a neighbour of the capital, and its relations with it were intimate and numerous. Moreover, it was favoured by a great number of lines of communication by road and by water, so that its manners and customs became, more or less unconsciously, interpolations. The great event of the year in Orleans is the Fete de Jeanne d'Arc, which takes place in the month of May. Usually few English and American visitors are present, though why it is hard to reason out, for it takes place at quite the most delightful season in the year. Perhaps it is because Anglo-Saxons are ashamed of the part played by their ancestors in the shocking death of the maid of Domremy and Orleans. Innumerable are the relics and reminders of the " Maid " scattered through- 34 Old Touraine and the Loire Country out the town, and the local booksellers have likewise innmnerable and authoritative ac- counts of the various episodes of her life, which saves the necessity of making further mention here. There are several statues of Jeanne d'Arc in the city, and they have given rise to the fol- lowing account written by Jules Lemaitre, the Academicien : '' I believe that the history of Jeanne d'Arc was the first that was ever told to me (before even the fairy-tales of Perrault). The ' Mort de Jeanne d'Arc,' of Casimir Delavigne, was the first fable that I learned, and the eques- trian statue of the ' Maid,' in the Place Mar- troi, at Orleans, is perhaps the oldest vision that my memory guards. " This statue of Jeanne d'Arc is absurd. She has a Grecian profile, and a charger which is not a war-horse but a race-horse. Never- theless to me it was noble and imposing. ' ' In the courtyard of the Hotel de Ville is a petite pucelle, very gentle and pious, who holds against her heart her sword, after the manner of a crucifi:s:. At the end of the bridge across the Loire is another Jeanne d 'Arc, as the maid of war, surrounded by swirling draperies, as in a picture of Juvenet's. This to me tells the The Orleannais 35 whole story of the reverence with which the martyred ' Maid ' is regarded in the city of Orleans by the Loire." One can appreciate all this, and to the full, for a Frenchman is a stern critic of art, even that of his own countrymen, and Jeanne d'Arc, along with some other celebrities, is one of those historical figures which have seldom had justice done them in sculptured or pictorial representations. The best, perhaps, is the pre- cocious Lepage's fine painting, now in America. What would not the French give for the return of this work of art? The Orleannais, with the He de France, formed the particular domain of the third race of French monarchs. From 1364 to 1498 the province was an appanage known as the Duche d 'Orleans, but it was united with the Crown by Louis XIL, and finally divided into the De- partments of Loir et Cher, Eure et Loir, and Loiret. Like the '* pardons " and '' benedictions " of Finistere and other parts of Bretagne, the peasants of the Loiret have a quaint custom which bespeaks a long handed-down supersti- tion. On the first Sunday of Lent they hie themselves to the fields with lighted fagots and chanting the following lines : 36 Old Touraine and the Loire Country " Sortez, sortez d'ici mulcts ! Oil je vais vous bruler les crocs ! Quittez, quittez ces bl6s ; AUez, vous trouverez Dans la cave du cur6 Plus a boire qu' a manger. Just how far the cure endorses these senti- ments, the author of this book does not know. The explanation of the rather extraordinary proceeding came from one of the participants, who, having played his part in the ceremony, dictated the above lines over sundry petits verres paid for by the writer. The day is not wound up, however, with an orgy of eating and drinking, as is sometimes the case in far-west- ern Brittany. The peasant of the Loiret sim- ply eats rather heavily of '' mi/' which is nothing more or less than oatmeal porridge, after which he goes to bed. The Loire rolls down through the Orleannais, from Chateauneuf-sur-Loire and Jargeau, and cuts the banks of sable, and the very shores themselves, into little capes and bays which are delightful in their eccentricity. Here cuts in the Canal d' Orleans, which makes possible the little traffic that goes on between the Seine and the Loire. A few kilometres away from the right bank of the Loire, in the heart of the Gatanais, is The Orleannais 37 Lorris, the home of Guillaume de Lorris, the first author of the '^ Roman de la Rose." For this reason alone it should become a literary shrine of the very first rank, though, in spite of its claim, no one ever heard of a literary pilgrim making his way there. Lorris is simply a big, overgrown French market-town, which is delightful enough in its somnolence, but which lacks most of the attri- butes which tourists in general seem to demand. At Lorris a most momentous treaty was signed, known as the '' Faix de Lorris," wherein was assured to the posterity of St. Louis the heritage of the Comte de Toulouse, another of those periodical territorial ag- grandizements which ultimately welded the French nation into the whole that it is to-day. From the juncture of the Canal d' Orleans with the Loire one sees shining in the brilliant sunlight the roof-tops of Orleans, the Aureli- anum of the Romans, its hybrid cathedral over- topping all else. It was Victor Hugo who said of this cathedral : ' ' This odious church, which from afar holds so much of promise, and which near by has none," and Hugo undoubtedly spoke the truth. Orleans is an old city and a cite neuve. "Where the river laps its quays, it is old but 38 Old Touraine and the Loire Country commonplace; back from the river is a strata which is really old, fine Gothic house-fronts and old leaning walls ; while still farther from the river, as one approaches the railway sta- tion, it is strictly modern, with all the devices and appliances of the newest of the new. The Orleans of history lies riverwards, — the Orleans where the heart of France pulsed itself again into life in the tragic days which were glorified by " the Maid." '' The countryside of the Orleannais has the monotony of a desert," said an English trav- eller some generations ago. He was wrong. To do him justice, however, or to do his ob- servations justice, he meant, probably, that, save the river-bottom of the Loire, the great plain which begins with La Beauce and ends with the Sologne has a comparatively uninter- esting topography. This is true ; but it is not a desert. La Beauce is the best grain-growing region in all France, and the Sologne is now a reclaimed land whose sandy soil has proved admirably adapted to an unusually abundant growth of the vine. So much for this old-time point of view, which to-day has changed con- siderably. The Orleannais is one of the most populous and progressive sections of all France, and its The Orleannais 39 inhabitants, per square kilometre, are con- stantly increasing in numbers, which is more than can be said of every departement. There are multitudes of tiny villages, and one is '^iSSi&mmi scarcely ever out of sight and sound of a hab- itation. In the great forest, just to the west of Or- leans, are two small villages, each a celebrated battle-ground, and a place of a patriotic pil- 40 Old Touraine and the Loire Country grimage on the eighth and ninth of November of each year. They are Coulmiers and Bacon, and here some fugitives from Metz and Sedan, with some young troops exposed to fire for the first time, engaged with the Prussians (in 1870) who had occupied Orleans since mid- October. There is the usual conventional ' ' sol- diers ' monument," — with considerably more art about it than is usually seen in America, — before which Frenchmen seemingly never cease to worship. This same Foret d' Orleans, one of those wild- woods which so plentifully besprinkle France, has a sad and doleful memory in the tradi- tions of the druidical inhabitants of a former day. Their practices here did not differ greatly from those of their brethren elsewhere, but local history is full of references to atroc- ities so bloodthirsty that it is difficult to be- lieve that they were ever perpetrated under the guise of religion. Surrounding the forest are many villages and hamlets, war-stricken all in the dark days of seventy-one, when the Prussians were over- running the land. Of all the cities of the Loire, Orleans, Blois, Tours, Angers, and Nantes alone show any spirit of modern progressiveness or of likeness The Orleannais 41 to the capital. The rest, to all appearances, are dead, or at least sleeping in their pasts. But they are charming and restful spots for all that, where in melancholy silence sit the old men, while the younger folk, including the very children, are all at work in the neighbouring vineyards or in the wheat-fields of La Beauce. Meung-sur-Loire and Beaugency sleep on the river-bank, their proud monuments rising high in the background, — the massive tower of Caesar and a quartette of church spires. Just below Orleans is the juncture of the Loiret and the Loire at St. Mesmin, while only a few kilo- metres away is Clery, famed for its associa- tions of Louis XL The Loiret is not a very ample river, and is classed by the Minister of Public Works as nav- igable for but four kilometres of its length. This, better than anything else, should define its relative importance among the great water- ways of France. Navigation, as it is known elsewhere, is practically non-existent. The course of the Loiret is perhaps twelve kilometres all told, but it has given its name to a great French departement, though it is doubtless the shortest of all the rivers of France thus honoured. It first comes to light in the dainty park of 42 Old Touraine and the Loire Country the Chateau de la Source, where there are two distinct sources. The first forras a small cir- cular basin, known as the " Bouillon," which leads into another semicircular basin called the " Bassin du Miroir," from the fact that it reflects the fagade of the chateau in its placid surface. Of course, this is all very artificial and theatrical, but it is a pretty conceit never- theless. The other source, known as the *' Grande Source," joins the rivulet some hun- dreds of yards below the ' ' Bassin du Miroir. ' ' The Chateau de la Source is a seventeenth- century edifice, of no great architectural beauty in itself, but sufficiently sylvan in its surround- ings to give it rank as one of the notable places of pilgrimage for tourists who, said a cynical French writer, ' ' take the chateaux of the Loire tour a tour as they do the morgue, the Moulin Eouge, and the sewers of Paris." In the early days the chateau belonged to the Cardinal Brigonnet, and it was here that Bol- ingbroke, after having been stripped of his titles in England, went into retirement in 1720. In 1722 he received Voltaire, who read him his *' Henriade." In 1815 the invading Prince Eckmiihl, with his staff, installed himself in the chateau, when, after Waterloo, the Prussian and French ar- jjjoire Country a Source, where there are two s. The first fornis a small cir- known as the '^ Bouillon," which ' other semicircular basin called the da Miroir," from the fact that it •0 facade of the chateau in its placid Of course, this is all very artificial :teatT*icaL but it is a pretty conceit never- ther source, known as the J side bonrce," joins the rivulet some hun- ' of yards below the '' Bassin du Miroir." ' Chateau de la Source is a seventeenth- ; y edifice, of no great architectural beauty if, but sufficierjtls,^ylvan in its surround- :':ve it rank r o notable places ■•:'i£fp- for tui'. , i*aid a cynical take the chateaux of the Loire lo the morgue, the Moulin Cnrdi: , .oimet, and it was here that Bol- jfUibr( kv after having been stripped of his n England, went into retirement in 1720. 2 he received Voltaire, who read him his •iade." ^^15 the invading Prince Eckmiihl, with ristalled himself in the chateau, when, torloo, the Prussian and French ar- The Orleannais 43 mies were separated only by a barrier placed midway on the bridge at Orleans. It was here also that the Prussian army was disbanded, on the agreement of the council held at Anger- ville, near Orleans. There are three other chateaux on the bor- ders of the Loiret, which are of more than ordinary interest, so far as great country houses and their surroundings go, though their histories are not very striking, with perhaps the exception of the Chateau de la Fontaine, which has a remarkable garden, laid out by Lenotre, the designer of the parks at Ver- sailles. Leaving Orleans by the right bank of the Loire, one first comes to La Chapelle-St. Mes- min. La Chapelle has a church dating from the eleventh century and a chateau which is to-day the maison de campagne of the Bishop of Orleans, On the opposite bank was the Abbaye de Micy, founded by Clovis at the time of his conversion. A stone cross, only, marks the site to-day. St. Ay follows next, and is usually set down in the guide-books as '' celebrated for good wines." This is not to be denied for a moment, and it is curious to note that the city bears the same name as the famous town in the cham- 44 Old Touraine and the Loire Country pagne district, celebrated also for good wine, though of a different kind. The name of the Orleannais Ay is gained from a hermitage founded here by a holy man, who died in the sixth century. His tomb was discovered in 1860, under the choir of the church, which makes it a place of pilgrimage of no little local importance. At Meung-sur-Loire one should cross the river to Clery, five kilometres off, seldom if ever visited by casual travellers. But why? Simply because it is overlooked in that uni- versal haste shown by most travellers — who are not students of art or architecture, or deep lovers of history — in making their way to more popular shrines. One will not regret the time taken to visit Clery, which shared with Our Lady of Embrun the devotions of Louis XL Clery 's three thousand pastoral inhabitants of to-day would never give it distinction, and it is only the Maison de Louis XL and the Basilique de Notre Dame which makes it worth while, but this is enough. In *' Quentin Durward " one reads of the time when the superstitious Louis was held in captivity by the Burgundian, Charles the Bold, and of how the French king made his devotions before the little image, worn in his hat, of the The Orleannais 45 Virgin of Clery; " the grossness of his super- stition, none the less than his fickleness, lead- ing him to believe Our Lady of Clery to be quite a different person from the other object of his devotion, the Madonna of Embrun, a tiny mountain village in southwestern France. ' ' ' Sweet Lady of Clery, ' he exclaimed, clasp- ing his hands and beating his breast as he spoke, ' Blessed Mother of Mercy! thou who art omnipotent with omnipotence, have compas- sion with me, a sinner ! It is true I have some- times neglected you for thy blessed sister of Embrun; but I am a king, my power is great, my wealth boundless; and were it otherwise, I would double my gdbelle on my subjects rather than not pay my debts to you both. ' ' ' Louis endowed the church at Clery, and the edifice was built in the fine flamboyant style of the period, just previous to his death, which De Commines gives as '^ ?e samedy penuUieme jour d'Aoust, Van mil quatre cens quatre- vingtz et trois, a huit heures du soir." Louis XI. was buried here, and the chief '' sight " is of course his tomb, beside which is a flagstone which covers the heart of Charles VIII. The Chapelle St. Jacques, within the church, is ornamented by a series of charming sculptures, and the Chapelle des 46 Old Touraine and the Loire Country Dunois-Longueville holds the remains of the famous ally of Jeanne d'Arc and members of his family. In the choir is the massive oaken statue of Our Lady of Clery (thirteenth century) ; the very one before which Louis made his vows. There is some old glass in the choir and a series of sculptured stalls, which would make famous a more visited and better known shrine. There is a fine sculptured stone portal to the sacristy, and within there are some magnifi- cent old armoires, and also two chasubles, which saw service in some great church, perhaps here, in the times of Louis himself. The '' Maison de Louis XL," near the church, is a house of brick, restored in 1651, and now — or until a very recent date — occu- pied by a community of nuns. In the Grande Eue is another '' Maison de Louis XL; " at least it has Ms cipher on the painted ceiling. It is now occupied by the Hotel de la Belle Image. Those who like to dine and sleep where have also dined and slept royal heads will ap- preciate putting up at this hostelry. Meung-sur-Loire was the birthplace of Jehan Clopinel, better known as Jean de Meung, who continued Guillaume de Lorris 's ' ' Roman de la Rose," the most famous bit of verse produced g The Orleannais 47 by the trouveres of the thirteenth century. The voice of the troubadour was soon after hushed for ever, but that thirteenth-century masterwork — though by two hands and the respective portions unequal in merit — lives for ever as the greatest of its kind. In memory of the author, Meung has its Eue Jehan de Meung, for want of a more effective or appeal- ing monument. Dumas opens the history of '^ Les Trois Mousquetaires " with the following brilliantly romantic lines anent Meung: " Le premier lundi du mois d'Avril, 1625, le hourg de Meung, ou naquit I'auteur du ' Roman de la Rose/ " (One of the authors, he should have said, but here is where Dumas nodded, as he frequently did.) Continuing, one reads : ' ' The town was in a veritable uproar. It was as if the Huguenots were up in arms and the drama of a second Eochelle was being enacted." Eeally the de- scription is too brilliant and entrancing to be repeated here, and if any one has forgotten his Dumas to the extent that he has forgotten D'Artagnan's introduction to the hostelry of the *' Franc Meunier," he is respectfully re- ferred back to that perennially delightful ro- mance. 48 Old Touraine and the Loire Country Meung was once a Roman fortress, known as Maudunum, and in the eleventh century St. Liphard founded a monastery here. In the fifteenth century Meung was the prison of Frangois Villon. Poor vagabond as he was then, it has become the fashion to laud both the personality and the poesy of Maitre Frangois Villon. By the orders of Thibaut d'Aussigny, Bishop of Orleans, Villon was confined in a strong tower attached to the side of the docker of the parish church of St. Liphard, and which ad- joined the chateau de plaisance belonging to the bishop. Primarily this imprisonment was due to a robbery in which the poet had been concerned at Orleans. He spent the whole of the summer in this dungeon, which was over- run with rats, and into which he had to be low- ered by ropes. As his food consisted of bread and water only, his sufferings at this time were probably greater than at any other period in his life. Here the burglar-poet remained until October, 1461, when Louis XI. visited Meung, and, to mark the occasion, ordered the release of all prisoners. For this delivery, Villon, ac- cording to the accounts of his life, appears to have been genuinely grateful to the king. At Beaugency, seven kilometres from Meung, The Orleannais 49 one comes upon an architectural and historical treat which is unexpected. In the eleventh century Beaugency was a fief of the bishopric of Amiens, and its once strong chateau was occupied by the Barons de Landry, the last of whom died, without children, in the thirteenth century. Philippe-le-Bel bought the fief and united it with the Comte de Blois. It was made an independent comte of itself in 1569, and in 1663 became definitely an appanage of Orleans. The Prince de Galles took Beau- gency in 1359, the Gascons in 1361, Duguesclin in 1370 and again in 1417 ; in 1421 and in 1428 it was taken by the English, from whom it was delivered by Jeanne d'Arc in 1429. Internal wars and warfares continued for another hun- dred and fifty years, finally culminating in one of the grossest scenes which had been enacted within its walls, — the bloody revenge against the Protestants, encouraged doubtless by the affair of St. Bartholomew's night at Paris. The ancient square donjon of the eleventh century, known as the Tour de Cesar, still looms high above the town. It must be one of the hugest keeps in all France. The old cha- teau of the Dunois is now a charitable insti- tution, but reflects, in a way, the splendour of its fourteenth-century inception, and its Salle 50 Old Touraine and the Loire Country de Jeanne d'Arc, with its great chimneypiece, is worthy to rank with the best of its kind along the Loire. The spiral staircase, of which the Loire builders were so fond, is admirable here, and dates from 1530. The Hotel de Ville of Beaugency is a charm- ing edifice of the very best of Eenaissance, which many more pretentious structures of the period are not. It dates from 1526, and was entirely restored — not, however, to its detri- ment, as frequently happens — in the last years of the nineteenth century. Its charm, never- theless, lies mostly in its exterior, for little re- mains of value within except a remarkable series of old embroideries taken from the choir of the old abbey of Beaugency. The Eglise de Notre Dame is a Romanesque structure with Grothic interpolations. It is not bad in its way, but decidedly is not remarkable as mediaeval churches go. The old streets of Beaugency contain a daz- zling array of old houses in wood and stone, and in the Rue des Templiers is a rare exam- ple of Romanesque civil architecture; at least the type is rare enough in the Orleannais, though more frequently seen in the south of France. The Tour St. Firmin dates from 1530, and is all that remains of a church which stood Beaugency The Orleannais 51 here up to revolutionary times. The square ruined towers known as the Porte Tavers are relics of the city's old walls and gates, and are all that are left to mark the ancient enclosure. The Tour du Diable and the house of the ruling abbot remain to suggest the power and magnificence of the great abbey which was built here in the tenth century. In 1567 it was burned, and later restored, but beyond the two features just mentioned there is nothing to indicate its former uses, the remaining struc- tures having passed into private hands and being devoted to secular uses. The old bridge which crosses the Loire at this point is most curious, and dates from vari- ous epochs. It is 440 metres in length, and is composed of twenty-six arches, one of which dates from the fourteenth century, when bridge-building was really an art. Eight of the present-day arches are of wood, and on the second is a monolith surmounted by a figure of Christ in bronze, replacing a former chapel to St. Jacques. A chapel on a bridge is not a unique arrangement, but few exist to-day, one of the most famous being, perhaps, that on the ruined bridge of St. Benezet at Avignon. Altogether, Beaugency, as it sleeps its life away after the strenuous days of the middle 52 Old Touraine and the Loire Country ages, is more lovable by far than a great me- tropolis. The traveller is well repaid who makes a stop at Beaugency a part of a three days' gen- tle ramble among the usually neglected towns and villages of the Orleannais and the Blaisois, instead of rushing through to Blois by express- train, which is what one usually does. Southward one's route lies through pleasant vineyards, on one side the Sologne, and on the other the Coteau de Guignes, which latter ranks as quite the best among the vine-growing dis- tricts of the Orleannais. Near Tavers is a natural curiosity in the shape of the * ' Fontaine des Sables Mouvants, ' ' where the sands of a tiny spring boil and bub- ble like a miniature geyser. Mer, another small town, follows, twelve kilo- metres farther on. Like Beaugency it is a som- nolent bourg, and the life of the peasant folk round about, who go to market on one day at Beaugency and on another at Blois, and occa- sionally as far away as Orleans, is much the same as it was a century ago. There is a Boulevard de la Gare and a Grande Rue at Mer, the latter leading to a fine Gothic church with a fifteenth-century tower, which is admirable in every way, and forms The Orleannais 53 a beacon by land for many miles around. The primitive church at Mer dates from the elev- enth century, the side walls, however, being all that remain of that period. There is a sculp- tured pulpit of the seventeenth century, and a great painting, which looks ancient and is cer- tainly a masterful work of art, representing an ** Adoration of the Magi." When all is said and done, it is its irresistible and inexpressible charm which makes Mer well- beloved, rather than any great wealth of artis- tic atmosphere of any nature. Away to the south, across the Loire to Muides, runs the route to Chambord, through the Sologne, where immediately the whole as- pect of life changes from that on the borders of the rich grain-lands of the Orleannais and La Beauce. All the way from Beaugency to Blois the Loire threads its way through a lovely country, whose rolling slopes, back from the river, are surmounted here and there by windmills, a not very frequent adjunct to the landscape of France, except in the north. Near Mer is Menars, with its eighteenth-cen- tury chateau of La Pompadour; Suevres, the site of an ancient Eoman city; the lowlands lying before Chambord ; St. Die ; Montlivault ; 64 Old Touraine and the Loire Country St. Claude, and a score of little villages which are entrancing in their old-world aspect even in these days of progress. This completes the panorama to Blois which, with the Blaisois, forms the borderland between the Orleannais and Touraine. Before reaching Blois, Menars, at any rate, commands attention. It fronts upon the Loire, but is practically upon the northern border of the Foret de Blois, hence properly belongs to the Blaisois. Menars was made a rendezvous for the chase by the wily and pleasure-loving La Pompadour, who quartered herself at the chateau, which afterward passed to her brother, De Marigny. Before the Eevolution, Menars was the seat of a marquisate, of which the land was bought by Louis XV. for his famous, or infamous, maitresse. The property has frequently changed hands since that day, but its gardens and terraces, descending toward the river- bank, mark it as one of those coquette estab- lishments, with which France was dotted in the eighteenth century. These establishments possessed enough of luxurious appointments to be classed as fit- ting for the butterflies of the time, but in no way, so far as the architectural design or the The Orleannais 55 artistic details were concerned, were any of them worthy to be classed with the great do- mestic chateaux of the early years of the Renaissance. CHAPTER III. THE BLAISOIS AND THE SOLOGNE The Blesois or Blaisois was the ancient name given to the petit pays which made a part of the government of the Orleannais. It was, and is, the borderland between the Orleannais and Touraine, and, with its capital, Blois, the city of counts, was a powerful territory in its own right, in spite of the allegiance which it owed to the Crown. Twenty leagues in length by thirteen in width, it was bounded on the north by the Dunois and the Orleannais, on the east by Berry, on the south by Touraine, and on the west by Touraine and the Vendomois. Blois, its capital, was famed ever in the annals of the middle ages, and to-day no city in the Loire valley possesses more sentimental interest for the traveller than does Blois. To the eastward lay the sands of the Sologne, and southward the ample and fruitful Tou- raine, hence Blois 's position was one of su- 56 The Blaisois and the Sologne 57 preme importance, and there is no wonder that it proved to be the scene of so many momentous events of history. The present day Department of the Loir et Cher was carved out from the Blaisois, the Vendomois, and the Orleannais. The Baisois was, in olden time, one of the most important of the petits gouvernements of all the kingdom, and gave to Blois a line of counts who rivalled in power and wealth the churchmen of Tours and the dukes of Brittany. G'regory of Tours is the first historian who makes mention of the ancient Pagus Blensensis. One must not tell the citizen of Blois that it is at Tours that one hears the best French spoken. Everybody knows this, but the inhab- itant of the Blaisois will not admit it, and, in truth, to the stranger there is not much appar- ent difference. Throughout this whole region he understands and makes himself understood with much more facility than in any other part of France. For one thing, not usually recalled, Blois should be revered and glorified. It was the native place of Lenoir, who invented the instru- ment which made possible the definite deter- mination of the metric system of measurement. One reads in Bernier's '' Histoire de Blois " 58 Old Touraine and the Loire Country that the inhabitants are '' honest, gallant, and polite in conversation, and of a delicate and diffident temperament." This was written nearly a century ago, but there is no excuse for one's changing the opinion to-day unless, as was the misfortune of the writer, he runs up against an unusu- ally importunate ven- der of post-cards or an aggressive gargon de cafe. Blois, among all the cities of the Loire, is the favourite with the tourist. Why this should be is an en- igma. It is overbur- dened, at times, with droves of tourists, and this in itself is a detraction in the eyes of many. Perhaps it is because here one first meets a great chateau of state; and certainly the Chateau de Blois lives in one's memory more than any other chateau in France. Much has been written of Blois, its counts, its chateau, and its many and famous hotels of the nobility, by writers of all opinions and abilities, from those old chroniclers who wrote The Blaisois and the Sologne 59 of the plots and intrigues of other days to those critics of art and architecture who have discov- ered — or think they have discovered — ^that Da Vinci designed the famous spiral stair- case. From this one may well gather that Blois is the foremost chateau of all the Loire in popu- larity and theatrical effect. Truly this is so, but it is by no manner of means the most lov- able; indeed, it is the least lovable of all that great galaxy which begins at Blois and ends at Nantes. It is a show-place and not much more, and partakes in every form and feature — as one sees it to-day — of the attributes of a museum, and such it really is. All of its former gorgeousness is still there, and all the banalities of the later period when Gaston of Orleans built his ugly wing, for the '' person- ally conducted " to marvel at, and honeymoon couples to envy. The French are quite fond of visiting this shrine themselves, but usually it is the- young people and their mammas, and detached couples of American and English birth that one most sees strolling about the courts and apartments were formerly lords and ladies and cavaliers moved and plotted. The great chateau of the Counts of Blois is built upon an inclined rock which rises above 60 Old Touraine and the Loire Country the roof-tops of the lower town quite in fairy- book fashion, — "... Batie en pierre et d'ardoise couverte, Blanche et carr^e an bas de la colline verte." Commonly referred to as the Chateau de Blois, it is really composed of four separate and distinct foundations; the original chateau Signature of Francois Premier of the counts ; the later addition of Louis XII. ; the palace of Frangois I., and the most unsym- pathetically and dismally disposed pavilion of Gaston of Orleans. The artistic qualities of the greater part of the distinct edifices which go to make up the chateau as it stands to-day are superb, with the exception of that great wing of Gaston's, before mentioned, which is as cold and unfeel- ing as the overrated palace at Versailles. The Blaisois and the Sologne 61 The Comtes de Chatillon built that portion just to the right of the present entrance; Louis XII., the edifice through which one enters the inner court and which extends far to the left, including also the chapel immediately to the rear ; while Frangois Premier, who here as elsewhere let his unbounded Italian proclivi- ties have full sway, built the extended wing to the left of the inner court and fronting on the present Place du Chateau, formerly the Place Royale. Immediately to the left, in the Basse Cour de Chateau, are the Hotel d'Amboise, the Hotel d':fipernon, and farther away, in the Rue St. Honore, the Hotel Sardini, the Hotel d'Alluye, and a score of others belonging to the nobility of other days ; all of them the scenes of many stirring and gallant events in Renaissance times. This is hardly the place for a discussion of the merits or demerits of any particular artis- tic style, but the frequently repeated expres- sion of Buff on 's '^ Le style, c'est I'homme " may well be paraphrased into '^ L'art, c'est I'epoque." In fact one finds at all times im- printed upon the architectural style of any period the current mood bred of some historical event or a passing fancy. 62 Old Touraine and the Loire Country At Blois this is particularly noticeable. As an architectural monument the chateau is a picturesque assemblage of edifices belonging to many different epochs, and, as such, shows, as well as any other document of contemporary times, the varying ambitions and emotions of its builders, from the rude and rough manners of the earliest of feudal times through the !!! highly refined Eenaissance details of the imag- inative brain of Frangois, down to the base con- coction of the elder Mansart, produced at the commands of Gaston of Orleans. The whole gamut, from the gay and winsome to the sad and dismal, is found here. The escutcheons of the various occupants are plainly in evidence, — the swan pierced by an arrow of the first Counts of Blois; the The Blaisois and the Sologne 63 ermine of Anne de Bretagne; the porcupine of the Dues d 'Orleans, and the salamander of FranQois Premier. In the earliest structure were to be seen all the attributes of a feudal fortress, towers and walls pierced with narrow loopholes, and damp, dark dungeons hidden away in the thick walls. Then came a structure which was less of a fortress and more habitable, but still a strong- hold, though having ample and decorative door- ways and windows, with curious sculptures and rich framings. Then the pompous Renaissance with escaliers and balcons a jour, balustrades crowning the walls, arabesques enriching the pilasters and walls, and elaborate cornices here, there, and everywhere, — all bespeaking the gallantry and taste of the roi-chevalier. Fi- nally came the cold, classic features of the period of the brother of Louis XIII., decidedly the worst and most unlivable and unlovely architecture which France has ever produced. All these features are plain in the general scheme of the Chateau de Blois to-day, and doubtless it is this that makes the appeal; too much loveliness, as at Chenonceaux or Azay- le-Rideau, staggers the modern mortal by the sheer impossibility of its modern attainment. In plan the Chateau de Blois forms an irreg- 64 Old Touraine and the Loire Country ular square situated at the apex of a promon- tory high above the surface of the Loire, and practically behind the town itself. The build- ing has a most picturesque aspect, and, to those who know, gives practically a history of the chateau architecture of the time. Abandoned, mutilated, and dishonoured from time to time, the structure gradually took on new forms until the thick walls underlying the apartment known to-day as the Salle des Etats — prob- ably the most ancient portion of all — were overshadowed by the great richness of the fif- teenth and sixteenth centuries. One early frag- ment was entirely enveloped in the structure which was built by Frangois Premier, the an- cient Tour de Chateau Regnault, or De Mou- lins, or Des Oubliettes, as it was variously known, and from the outside this is no longer visible. From the platform one sees a magnificent panorama of the city and the far-reaching Loire, which unrolls itself southward and northward for many leagues, its banks covered by rich vineyards and crowned by thick forests. The building of Louis XII. presents its brick- faced exterior in black and red lozenge shapes, with sculptured window-frames, squarely upon the little tree-bordered place of to-day, which The Blaisois and the Sologne 65 in other times formed a part of that magnifi- cent terrace which looked down upon the roof of the Eglise St. Nicolas, and the Jesuit Church of the Immaculate Conception, and the silvery belt of the Loire itself. On the west faQade of this vast conglomerate sgi j^Riiig oyi Xjovi0 :5Cii ~~^ structure one sees the effigy of the porcupine, that weird symbol adopted by the family of Orleans. The choice of this ungainly animal — in spite of which it is most decorative in outline — was due to the first Louis, who was Due d 'Or- leans. In the year 1393 Louis founded the 66 Old Touraine and the Loire Country order of the porcupine, in honour of the birth of Charles, his eldest son, who was born to him by Valentine de Milan. The legend which ac- companied the adoption of the symbol — though often enough it was missing in the sculptured representations — was Cominus et eminus, which had its origin in the be- lief that the porcupine could defend himself in a near attack, but that when he himself attacked, he fought from afar by launching forth his spines. Naturalists will tell you that the porcupine does no such thing; but in those days it was evidently believed that he did, and in many, if not all, of the sculptured effigies that one sees of the beast there is a halo of detached spines forming a background as if they were really launching themselves forth in mid-air. Above this central doorway, or entrance to the courtyard, is a niche in which is a modern equestrian statue of Louis XII., replacing a more ancient one destroyed at the Revolution. This old statue, it is claimed, was an admira- ble work of art in its day, and the present statue is thought to be a replica of it. It originally bore the following inscription — a verse written by Fausto Andrelini, the king's favourite poet. Central Doonvay, Chateau de Blots The Blaisois and the Sologne 67 " Hie ubi natus erat dextro Lodoicus Olympo, Sumpsit honorata Regia sceptra manu ; Felix quEe taati fulfit lux nuntia Regis ; Gallia non alio Principe digna fuit. FAUSTUS 1498." According to an old French description this old statue was: '' tres beau et tres agreable ainsy que tous ses portraits Vont represents, comme celui qui est au grand portail de Bloys:' Above rises a balustrade with fantastic gar- goyles with the pinnacles and fleurons of the window gables all very ornate, the whole topped off with a roofing of slate. Blois, in its general aspect, is fascinating; but it is not sympathetic, and this is not sur- prising when one remembers men and women who worked their deeds of bloody daring within its walls. The murders and other acts of violence and treason which took place here are interesting enough, but one cannot but feel, when he views the chimneypiece before which the Due de Guise was standing when called to his death in the royal closet, that the men of whom the bloody tales of Blois are told quite deserved their fates. One comes away with the impression of it 68 Old Touraine and the Loire Country all stamped only upon the mind, not graven upon the heart. Political intrigue to-day, if quite as vulgar, is less sordid. Bigotry and ambition in those days allowed few of the finer feelings to come to the surface, except with regard to the luxuriance of surroundings. Of this last there can be no question, and Blois is as characteristically luxurious as any of the magnificent edifices which lodged the royalty and nobility of other days, throughout the valley of the Loire. A numismatic curiosity, connected with the history of the Chateau de Blois, is an ancient piece of money which one may see in the local museum. It is the oldest document in existence in which, or on which, the name of Blois is mentioned. On one side is a symbolical figure and the legend Bleso Castro, and on the other a croix haussee and the name of the officer of the mint at Blois, Pre Cistato, monetario. The plan of the Chateau de Blois here given shows it not as it is to-day, but as it was at the death of Gaston d 'Orleans in 1660. The constructions of the different epochs are noted on the plan as follows: Erected by the Comtes de Chatillon 1. Tour de Donjon, Chateau-Regnault, Moulins, or des Oubliettes. The Blaisois and the Sologne 69 2. Salle des Etats. 3. Tour du Foix or Observatory. Erected by the Dues d 'Orleans 4. Portico and Galerie d'Orleans. (Destroyed in part by the military.) 5. Galerie des Cerfs. (Built in part by Gaston, but made away with by the city of Blois when the Jardins du Roi were built.) Erected by Louis XII. 6. Chapelle St. Calais. (Destroyed in part by the mili- tary.) 7. La Grande Vis, or Grand Escalier of Louis XL 8. La Petite Vis, or Petit Escalier, in one chamber of which the corpse of the Duo de Guise was burned. 9. Portico and Galerie de Louis XII. 10. Portico. 11. Salle des Gardes, — of the queen on the ground floor and of the king on the first floor. 12. Bedchamber, — of the queen on the ground floor and of the king on the first floor. 13. Corps de Garde. 14. Kitchen. (To-day Salle de Reception for visitors. ) Erected from the Time of Francois I. to Henri III. 15 and 16. Portico and Terrace Henri II. (In part built over by Gaston.) 17. Grand Staircase. 18. Galerie de Francois I. 19. Staircase of the Salle des fetats. (Destroyed by the military.) 20. First floor, Salle des Gardes of the queen ; second floor, Salle des Gardes of the king. 21. Staircase leading to the apartments of the queen mother. Here also Henri III. had made the cells destined for 70 Old Touraine and the Loire Country the use of the Capucins, and here were closeted ''pour s' assurer de leur discretion," the " Quarante-Cinq " who were to kill the Dae de Guise. 22. Cabinet Neuf of Henri III. (Second floor.) 23. Gallery where wa8 held the reunion of the Tiers Etats of 1576. 24. First floor, bedchamber of the king ; second floor, bed- chamber of the queen. 25. Oratory. 26. Cabinet. 27. Passage to the Tour de Moulins. 28. Passage to the Cabinet Vieux, where the Due de Guise was struck down. 29. Cabinet Vieux. 30. Oratory, where the two chaplains of the king prayed during the perpetration of the murder. 31. Garde-robe, where was first deposited the body of De Guise. Erected by Gaston d' Orleans 32. Peristyle. (Destroyed by the military.) 33. Dome. 34. Pavilion des Jardins. 35. Pavilion du Foix. 36. Petit Pavilion of the M6ridionale fagade. (Destroyed in 1825.) 37. Terraces. 38. Bastions du Foix and des Jardins. 39. L'Eperon. 40. Le Jar din Haut, or Jar din du Roi. The interior court is partly surrounded by a colonnade, quite cloister-like in effect. At the right centre of the Francois I. wing is that wonderful spiral staircase, concerning the in- The Blaisois and the Sologne 71 Jjtiit ffrnti^ \ Maisons S^e CHATEAUX 5;^ BbOl3 72 Old Touraine and the Loire Country vention of which so much speculation has been launched. Leonardo da Vinci, the protege of Frangois, has been given the honour, and a very considerable volume has been written to prove the claim. Within this ^' tour octagone^^ — ^' qui fait a ses huit pans hurler un gorgone " — is built Cypher of Frangois Premier and Claude of France, at Blois this marvellous openwork stairway, — an 65- calier a jour, as the French call it, — without an equal in all France, and for daring and decorative effect unexcelled by any of those Renaissance motives of Italy itself. Its ascent turns not, as do most escaliers, from left to right, but from right to left. It is the proto- type of those supposedly unique outside stair- The Blaisois and the Sologne 73 cases pointed out to country cousins in the abodes of Fifth Avenue millionaires. It is as impossible to catalogue the various apartments and their accessories here, as it is to include a chronology of the great events which have passed within their walls. One thing should be remembered, and that is, that the architect Duban restored the chateau throughout in recent years. In spite of this restoration one may readily enough recon- struct the scene of the murder of the Due de Guise from the great fireplace on the second floor before which De Guise was standing when summoned by a page to the kingly presence, from the door through which he entered to his death, and from the wall where hung the tapestry behind which he was to pass. All this is real enough, and also the " Tour des Oubli- ettes," in which the duke's brother, the car- dinal, suffered, and of which many horrible tales are still told by the attendants. Duban, the architect, came with his careful restorations and pictured with a most exact fidelity the decorations and the furnishings of the times of Francois, of Catherine, and of Henri III. The ornate chimneypieces have been furbished up anew, the walls and ceilings covered with new paint and gold; nothing 74 Old Touraine and the Loire Country could be more opulent or glorious, but it gives the impression of a city dwelling or a great hotel, "■ newly done up," as the house reno- vators express it. One contrasting emotion will be awakened by a contemplation of the two great Salles des Gardes and the apartments of Catherine de Medici; here, at least for the moment, is a relief from the intrigues, massacres, and assas- sinations which otherwise went on, for one re- calls that, at one period, " danses, ballets et jeux " took place here continuously. In the apartments of Catherine there is much to remind one of '' the base Florentine," as it has been the fashion of latter-day historians to describe the first of the Medici queens. Nothing could be more smnptuous than the Galerie de la Reine, her Cabinet de Toilette, or her CJiambre a Coucher, with its secret panels, where she died on the 5th of January, 1589, '' adored and revered," but soon for- gotten, and of no more account than " une chevre mort,^^ says one old chronicler. The apartments of Catherine de Medici were directly beneath the guard-room where the Balafre was murdered, and that event, taking place at the very moment when the The Blaisois and the Sologne 75 " queen-mother " was dying, cannot be said to have been conducive to a peaceful demise. Here, on the first floor of the Frangois Premier wing, the reine-mere held her court, as did the king his. The great gallery over- looked the town on the side of the present Place du Chateau. It was, and is, a truly grand apartment, with diamond-paned win- dows, and rich, dark, wall decorations on which Catherine 's device, a crowned C and her mono- gram in gold, frequently appears. There was, moreover, .a great oval window, opposite which stood her altar, and a doorway, half concealed, led to her writing-closet, with its secret drawers and wall-panels which well served her pur- poses of intrigue and deceit. A hidden stair- way led to the floor above, and there was a chamhre a coucher, with a deep recess for the bed, the same to which she called her son Henri as she lay dying, admonishing him to give up the thought of murdering Guise. '' What," said Henri, on this embarrassing occasion, *' spare Guise, when he, triumphant in Paris, dared lay his hand on the hilt of his sword! Spare him who drove me a fugitive from the capital! Spare them who never spared me! No, mother, I will wo^." As the queen-mother drew near her end, 76 Old Touraine and the Loire Country and was lying ill at Blois, great events for France were culminating at the chateau. Henri III. had become King of France, and the Balafre, supported by Rome and Spain, was in open rebellion against the reigning house, and the word had gone forth that the Due de Guise must die. The States General were to be immediately assembled, and De Guise, once the poetic lover of Marguerite, through his emissaries canvassed all France to ensure the triumph of the party of the Church against Henri de Navarre and his queen, — the Marguerite whom De Guise once professed to love, — who soon were to come to the throne of France. The uncomfortable Henri III. had been told that he would never be king in reality until De Guise had been made away with. The final act of the drama between the rival houses of Guise and Valois came when the king and his council came to Blois for the Assembly. The sunny city of Blois was indeed to be the scene of a momentous affair, and a truly sumptuous setting it was, the roof-tops of its houses sloping downward gently to the Loire, with the chief accessory, the coiffed and turreted chateau itself, high above all else. Details had been arranged with infinite The Blaisois and the Sologne 77 pains, the guard doubled, and a company of Swiss posted around the courtyard and up and down the gorgeous staircase. Every nook and corner has its history in connection with this greatest event in the history of the Chateau of Blois. As Guise entered the council-chamber he was told that the king would see him in his closet, to reach which one had to pass through the guard-room below. The door was barred be- hind him that he might not return, when the trusty guards of the " Forty-fifth," under Dalahaide, already hidden behind the wall- tapestry, sprang upon the Balafre and forced him back upon the closed door through which he had just passed. Guise fell stabbed in the breast by Malines, and ^' lay long uncovered until an old carpet was found in which to wrap his corpse." Below, in her own apartments, lay the queen- mother, dying, but listening eagerly for the rush of footsteps overhead, hoping and pray- ing that Henri — the hitherto effeminate Henri who played with his sword as he would with a battledore, and who painted himself like a woman, and put rings in his ears — would not prejudice himself at this time in the eyes of 78 Old Touraine and the Loire Country Eome by slaying the leader of the Church party. Guise died as Henri said he would die, with the words on his lips: " A moi, mes amis! — trahison! — a moi, Guise, — je me meurs,^^ but the revenge of the Church party came when, at St. Cloud, the monk, Jacques Clement, poi- gnarded the last of the Valois, and put the then heretical Henri de Navarre on the throne of France. Within the southernmost confines of the chateau is the Tour de Foix, so called for the old faubourg near by. The upper story and roof of this curious round tower was the work of Catherine de Medici, who installed there her astrologer and maker of philtres, Cosmo Eug- gieri. Euggieri was a most versatile person; he was astrologer, alchemist, and philosopher alike, besides being many other kinds of a rogue, all of which was very useful to the Medici now that she had come to power. Catherine built an outside stairway up to the platform of this tower, and a great, flat, stone table was placed there to form a foundation for Euggieri 's cabalistic instruments. Even this stone table itself was an uncanny affair, if we are to believe the old chronicles. It rang The Blaisois and the Sologne 79 out in a clear sharp note whenever struck with some hard body, and on its surface was graven a line which led the eye directly toward the golden fieur-de-lys on the cupola of Cham- bord's chateau, some three leagues distant on the other side of the Loire. What all this sym- bolism actually meant nobody except Catherine and her astrologer knew; at least, the details do not appear to have come down to enlighten posterity. Over the doorway of the observa- tory were graven the words, " Vranice Sa- crum,'''' i. e., consecrated to Uranius. Wherever Catherine chose to reside, whether in Touraine or at Paris, her astrologer and his " observatoire " formed a part of her train. She had brought Cosmo from Jtaly, and never for a moment did he leave her. He was a sort of a private demon on whom Catherine could shoulder her poisonings and her stabs, and, as before said, he was an exceedingly busy functionary of the court. That part of the structure built by Man- sart for Gaston d 'Orleans appears strange, solemn, and superfluous in connection with the sumptuousness of the earlier portions. With what poverty the architectural art of the seventeenth century expressed itself ! What an inferiority came with the passing of the six- 80 Old Touraine and the Loire Country teentli century and the advent of the following ! One finds a certain grandeur in the outlines of this last wing, with its majestic cupola over the entrance pavilion, but the general effect of the decorations is one of a great paucity of invention when compared to the more brilliant Renaissance forerunners on the opposite side of the courtyard. It was under the regime of Gaston d 'Orleans that the gardens of the Chateau de Blois came to their greatest excellence and beauty. In 1653 Abel Brunyer, the first physician of Gas- ton's suite, published a catalogue of the fruits and flowers to be found here in these gardens, of which he was also director. More than five hundred varieties were included, three-quar- ters of which belonged to the flora of France. Among the delicacies and novelties of the time to be found here was the Prunier de Reine Claude, from which those delicious green plums known to all the world to-day as '* Reine Claudes " were propagated, also another vari- ety which came from the Prunier de Monsieur, somewhat similar in taste but of a deep purple colour. The pomme de terre was tenderly cared for and grown as a great novelty and delicacy long before its introduction to general cultivation by Parmentier. The tomato was The Blaisois and the Sologne 81 imported from Mexico, and even tobacco was grown ; from which it may be judged that Gas- ton did not intend to lack the good things of life. All these facts are recounted in Brunyer's " Hortus Eegius Blesensis," and, in addition, one Morrison, an expatriate Scotch doctor, who had attached himself to Gaston, also wrote a competing work which was published in London in 1669 under the title of '^ Preludia Bota- nica, ' ' and which dealt at great length with the already celebrated gardens of the Chateau de Blois. Morrison placed at the head of his work a Latin verse which came in time to be graven over the gateway of the gardens. This — as well as pretty much all record of it — has dis- appeared, but a repetition of the lines will serve to show with what admiration this para- dise was held: « Hinc, nulli biferi miranda rosaria Pesti, Nee mala Hesperidum, vigili servata dracone. Si paradisiacis quicquam (sine crimine) campis Conferri possit, Blaesis mirabile specta. Magnifici Gastonis opus ! Qui terra capaci . . . JACOBUS METELANUS SCOTUS." Not merely in history has the famous cha- teau at Blois played its part. Writers of fie- 82 Old Touraine and the Loire Country tion have more than once used it as an acces- sory or the principal scenic background of their sword and cloak novels; none more effectively than Dumas in the D'Artagnan series. The opening lines of ' ' Le Vicomte de Brage- lonne " are laid here. '^ It should have been a source of pride to the city of Blois," says Dumas, '' that Gaston of Orleans had chosen it as his residence, and held his court in the ancient chateau of the States." Here, too, in the second volume of the D'Ar- tagnan romances, is the scene of that most affecting meeting between his Majesty Charles II., King of England, and Louis XIV. Altogether one lives here in the very spirit of the pages of Dumas. Not only Blois, but Langeais, Chambord, Cheverny, Amboise, and many other chateaux figure in the novels with an astonishing frequency, and, whatever the critics may say of the author's slips of pen and memory, Dumas has given us a wonder- fully faithful picture of the life of the times. In 1793 all the symbols and emblems of roy- alty were removed from the chateau and des- troyed. The celebrated bust of Gaston, the chief artistic attribute of that part of the edi- fice built by him, was decapitated, and the statue of Louis XII. over the entrance gateway The Blaisois and the Sologne 83 was overturned and broken up. Afterward the chateau became the property of the " do- maine " and was turned into a mere barracks. The Pavilion of Queen Anne became a " ma- gasin des subsistances militaires, the Tour de I'Observatoire, a powder-magazine, and all the indignities imaginable were heaped upon the chateau. In 1814 Blois became the last capital of Napoleon's empire, and the chateau walls shel- tered the prisoners captured by the imperial army. Blois 's most luxurious church edifice was the old abbey church of St. Sauveur, which was built from 1138 to 1210. It lost the royal fa- vour in 1697, when Louis XIV. made Blois a city of bishops as well as of counts, and trans- ferred the chapter of St. Sauveur 's to the bas- tard Gothic edifice first known as St. Solenne, but which soon took on the name of St. Louis. In spite of the claims of the old church, this cold, unfeeling, and ugly mixture of tomblike Eenaissance became, and still remains, the bishop's church of Blois. One must not neglect or forget the magnifi- cent bridge which crosses the Loire at Blois. A work of 1717 - 24, it bears the Eue Denis Papin across its eleven solidly built masonry 84 Old Touraine and the Loire Country piers. Above the central arch is erected a memorial pyramid and tablet which states the fact that it was one of the first works of the reign of Louis XV. Blois altogether, then, offers a multitudinous array of attractions for the tourist who makes his first entrance to the chateaux country through its doors. The town itself has not the appeal of Tours, of Angers, or of Nantes ; but, for all that, its abundance of historic lore, the admirable preservation of its chief monument, and the general picturesqueness of its site and the country round about make up for many other qualities that may be lacking. The Sologne, lying between Blois, Vierzon, and Chateauneuf-sur-Loire, is a great region of lakelets, sandy soil, and replanted Corsican pines, which to-day has taken on a new lease of life and a prosperity which was unknown in the days when the Comtes de Blois first erected that maison de plaisance on its western border which was afterward to aggrandize it- self into the later Chateau de Chambord. The soil has been drained and the vine planted to a hitherto undreamed of extent, until to-day, if the land does not exactly blossom like the rose, it at least somewhat approaches it. The cJiaumieres of the Sologne have disap- The Blaisois and the Sologne 85 peared to a large extent, and their mud walls and thatched roofs are not as frequent a detail of the landscape as formerly, but even now there is .a distinct individuality awaiting the artist who will go down among these vineyard work- ers of the Sologne and paint them and their surroundings as other parts have been painted and popularized. It will be hot work in the summer months, and lonesome work at all times, but there is a new note to be sounded if one but has the ear for it, and it is to be heard right here in this tract directly on the beaten track from north to south, and yet so little known. The peasant of the Solo,.<^ne formerly ate his soupe au poireau and a morsel of frontage maigre and was as content and happy as if his were a more luxurious board, as it in reality became when a stranger demanded hospitality. Then out from the armoire — that ever present adjunct of a French peasant's home, whether it be in Normandy, Touraine, or the Midi — came a bottle of vin hlanc, bought in the wine- shops of Eomorantin or Vierzon on some of his periodical trips to town. To-day all is changing, and the peasant of the Sologne nourishes himself better and trims his beard and wears a round white collar on fete-days. He is proud of his well-kept appear- 86 Old Touraine and the Loire Country ance, but his neighbours to the north and the south will tell you that all this hides a deep malice, which is hard to believe, in spite of the well recognized saying, '' Sot comme un Solo gnat." The women have a physiognomy more passive ; when young they are fresh and lip-lively, but as they grow older their charms pass quickly. The Sologne in most respects has changed greatly since the days of Arthur Young. Then this classic land was reviled and vehement im- precations were launched upon the proprietors of its soil, — ' ' those brilliant and ambitious gentlemen who figure so largely in the cere- monies of Versailles. To-day all is changed, and the gentleman farmer is something more than a bourgeois parisien who hunts and rides and apes ^^ le sport " of the English country squire. The jack-rabbit and the hare are the pests of the Sologne now that its sandy soil has been conquered, but they are quite successfully kept down in numbers, and the insects which for- merly ravaged the vines are likewise less offensive than they used to be, so the Sologne may truly be said to have been transformed. To-day, as in the days of the royal hunt, when Chambord was but a shooting-box of the The Blaisois and the Sologne 87 Counts of Blois, the Sologne is rife with small game, and even deer and an occasional sanglier. ^' ha cJiasse " in France is no mean thing to-day, and the Sologne, La Beauce, and the great national forests of Lyons and Ram- bouillet draw — on the opening of the season, somewhere between the 28th of August and the 2d of September of each year — their hundreds of thousands of Nimrods and dis- ciples of St. Hubert. The bearer of the gun in France is indeed a most ardent sportsman, and in no European country can one buy in the open market a greater variety of small game, — all the product of those who pay their twenty francs for the privilege of bagging rab- bits, hares, partridges, and the like. The hunt- ers of France enjoy one superstition, however, and that is that to accidentally bag a crow on the first shot means a certain and sudden death before the day is over. La Motte-Beuvron is celebrated in the annals of the Sologne; it is, in fact, the metropolis of the region, and the centre from which radi- ated the influences which conquered the soil and made of it a prosperous land, where for- merly it was but a sandy, arid desert. La Motte-Beuvron is a long-drawn-out hourgade, like some of the populous centres of the great 88 Old Touraine and the Loire Country plain of Hungary, and there is no great pros- perity or '' up-to-dateness " to be observed, in spite of its constantly increasing importance, for La Motte-Beuvron and the country round about is one of the localities of France which is apparently not falling off in its population. La Motte has a most imposing Hotel de Ville, a heavy edifice of brick built by Napoleon HI. — who has never been accused of having had the artistic appreciation of his greater ances- tor — after the model of the Arsenal at Venice. This is all La Motte has to warrant remark unless one is led to investigate the successful agricultural experiment which is still being carried out hereabouts. La Motte 's hotels and cafes are but ordinary, and there is no counter attraction of boulevard or park to place the town among those lovable places which trav- ellers occasionally come upon unawares. To realize the Sologne at its best and in its most changed aspect, one should follow the roadway from La Motte to Blois. He may either go by tramway a vapeur, or by his own means of communication. In either case he will then know why the prosperity of the Sologne and the contentment of the Solognat is assured. Eomorantin, still characteristic of the So- logne and its historic capital, is famous for its The Blaisois and the Sologne 89 asparagus and its paternal chateau of Fran- gois Premier, where that prince received the scar upon his face, at a tourney, which com- pelled him ever after to wear a beard. To-day the Sous-Prefecture, the Courts and their prisoners, the Gendarmerie, and the The- atre are housed under the walls that once Native Types in the Sologne formed the chateau royal of Jean d'Angou- leme; within whose apartments the gallant Frangois was brought up. The Sologne, like most of the other of the petits pays of France, is prolific in supersti- tions and traditionary customs, and here for some reason they deal largely of the marriage state. When the paysan solognais marries, he 90 Old Touraine and the Loire Country takes good care to press the marriage-ring well up to the third joint of his spouse's finger, " else she will be the master of the house," which is about as well as the thing can be ex- pressed in English. It seems a simple precau- tion, and any one so minded might well do the same under similar circumstances, provided he thinks the proceeding efficacious. Again, during the marriage ceremony itself, each of the parties most interested bears a lighted wax taper, with the belief that which- ever first burns out, so will its bearer die first. It's a gruesome thought, perhaps, but it gives one an inkling of who stands the best chance of inheriting the other's goods, which is what matches are sometimes made for. The marriage ceremony in the Sologne is a great and very public function. Intimates, friends, acquaintances, and any of the neigh- bouring populace who may not otherwise be occupied, attend, and eat, drink, and ultimately get merry. But they have a sort of process of each paying his or her own way ; at least a col- lection is taken up to pay for the entertainment, for the Sologne peasant would otherwise start his married life in a state of bankruptcy from which it would take him a long time to recover. The collection is made with considerable The Blaisois and the Sologne 91 eclat and has all the elements of picturesque- ness that one usually associates with the wed- ding processions that one sees on the comic- opera stage. A sort of nuptial bouquet — a great bunch of field flowers — is handed round from one guest to another, and for a sniff of their fragrance and a participation in the col- lation which is to come, they make an offering, dropping much or little into a golden (not gold) goblet which is passed around by the bride her- self. In the Sologne there is (or was, for the writer has never seen it) another singular cus- tom of the marriage service — not really a part of the churchly office, but a sort of practical indorsement of the actuality of it all. The bride and groom are both pricked with a needle until the blood runs, to demonstrate that neither the man nor the woman is insen- sible or dreaming as to the purport of the cere- mony about to take place. As every French marriage is at the Mairie, as well as being held in church, this double ceremony (and the blood-letting as well) must make a very hard and fast agreement. Per- haps it might be tried elsewhere with ad- vantage. Montrichard, on the Cher, is on the border- 92 Old Touraine and the Loire Country land between the Blaisois and Touraine. Its donjon announces itself from afar as a mag- nificent feudal ruin. The town is moreover most curious and original, the great rectangu- lar donjon rising high into the sky above a series of cliff-dwellers' chalk-cut homes, in truly weird fashion. There is nothing so very remarkable about cliff-dwellers in the Loire country, and their aspect, manners, and customs do not differ greatly from those of their neighbours, who live below them. Curiously enough these rock-cut dwellings appear dry and healthful, and are not in the least insalubrious, though where a cave has been devoted only to the storage of wine in vats, barrels, and bottles the case is somewhat different. Montrichard itself, outside of these scores of homes burrowed out of the cliff, is most picturesque, with stone-pignoned gables and dormer-windows and window-frames cut or worked in wood or stone into a thousand amusing shapes. Montrichard, with Chinon, takes the lead in interesting old houses in these parts; in fact, they quite rival the ruinous lean-to houses of Eouen and Lisieux in Normandy, which is say- Donjon oj Montrichard The Blaisois and the Sologne 93 ing a good deal for their picturesque qual- ities. One-third of Montrichard's population live underground or in houses built up against the hillsides. Even the lovely old parish church backs against the rock. Everywhere are stairways and > petit s cJie- mins leading upward or downward, with little fagades, windows, or doorways coming upon one in most unexpected and mysterious fashion at every turn. The magnificent donjon is a relic of the work of that great fortress-builder, Foulques Nerra, Comte d'Anjou, who dotted the land wherever he trod with these masterpieces of their kind, most of them great rectangular structures like the donjons of Britain, but quite unlike the structures of their class mostly seen in France. Richard Coeur de Lion occupied the fortress in 1108, but was obliged to succumb to his rival in power, Philippe-Auguste, who in time made a breach in its walls and captured it. There- after it became an outpost of his own, from whence he could menace the Comte d'Anjou. CHAPTEE IV. CHAMBORD Chambord is four leagues from Blois, from which point it is usually approached. To reach it one crosses the Sologne, not the arid waste it has been pictured, but a desert which has been made to blossom as the rose. A glance of the eye, given anywhere along the road from Blois to Chambord, will show a vineyard of a thousand, two thousand, or even more acres, where, from out of a soil that was once supposed to be the poorest in all wine- growing France, may be garnered a crop equal- ling a hundred dozen of bottles of good rich wine to the acre. This wine of the Sologne is not one of the famous wines of France, to be sure, but what one gets in these parts is pure and astonish- ingly palatable; moreover, one can drink large potions of it — as do the natives — without being affected in either his head or his pocket- book. 94 Chambord 95 From late September to early December there is a constant harvest going on in the vineyards, whose labourers, if not as pictur- esque and joyous as we are wont to see them on the comic-opera stage, are at least wonder- fully clever and industrious, for they make a good wine crop out of a soil which previously gave a living only to charcoal-burners and goat- keepers. FrauQois was indeed a rare devotee of the building mania when he laid out the wood which surrounds Chambord and which ulti- mately grew to some splendour. The nine- teenth century saw this great wood cut and sold in huge quantities, so that to-day it is rather a scanty copse through which one drives on the way from Blois. The country round about is by no means impoverished, — far from it. It is simply un- worked to its fullest extent as yet. As it is plentifully surrounded by water it makes an ideal land for the growing of asparagus, straw- berries, and grapes, and so it has come to be one of the most prosperous and contented regions in all the Loire valley. The great white Chateau de Chambord, with its turrets and its magnificent lantern, looms large from whatever direction it is approached, 96 Old Touraine and the Loire Country though mostly it is framed by the somewhat stunted pines which make up the pleasant for- est. The vistas which one sees when coming toward Chambord, through the drives and alleys of its park, with the chateau itself bril- liant in the distance, are charming and fairy- like indeed. Straight as an arrow these road- ways run, and he who traverses one of those centring at the chateau will see a tiny white fleck in the sunlight a half a dozen kilometres away, which, when it finally is reached, will be admitted to be the greatest triumph of the art- loving monarch. Frangois Premier was foremost in every artistic expression in France, and the court, as may be expected, were only too eager to follow the expensive tastes of their monarch, — when they could get the means, and when they could not, often enough Frangois supplied the wherewithal. Francois himself dressed in the richest of Italian velvets, the more brilliant the better, with a preponderant tendency toward pink and sky blue. A dozen years after Frangois came to the throne, a dozen years after the pleasant life of Amboise, when mother, daughter, and son lived together on the banks of the Loire in that Chambord 97 a Trinity of love," the monarcli and his wife, Queen Claude of France, the daughter of Louis XII. and Anne of Brittany, came to live at Chambord on the edge of the sandy Sologne waste. Here, too, came Marguerite d'Alengon, the ever faithful and devoted sister of Francois, the duke, her husband, and all the gay members of the court. The hunt was the order of the day, for the forest tract of the Sologne, scanty though it was in growth, abounded in small game. Chambord at this time had not risen to the grand and ornate proportions which we see to-day, but set snugly on the low, swampy banks of the tiny river Cosson, a dull, gloomy medi- aeval fortress, whose only aspect of gaiety was that brought by the pleasure-loving court when it assembled there. In size it was ample to accommodate the court, but Francois's artistic temperament already anticipated many and great changes. The Loire was to be turned from its course and the future pompous palace was to have its feet bathed in the limpid Loire water rather than in the stagnant pools of the morass which then surrounded it. As a triumph of the royal chateau-builder's art, Chambord is far and away ahead of Fon- 98 Old Touraine and the Loire Country tainebleau or Versailles, both of wMch were built in a reign which ended two hundred years later than that which began with the erection of Chambord. As an example of the arts of FranQois I. and his time compared with those of Louis XIV. and his, Chambord stands forth with glorious significance. On the low banks of the Cosson, Frangois achieved perhaps the greatest triumph that Eenaissance architecture had yet known. It was either Chambord, or the reconstruc- tion by Frangois of the edifice belonging to the Counts of Blois, which resulted in the refine- ment of the Eenaissance style less than a quar- ter of a century after its introduction into France by Charles VIII., — if he really was responsible for its importation from Italy. Frangois lacked nothing of daring, and built and embellished a structure which to-day, in spite of numerous shortcomings, stands as the supreme type of a great Renaissance domestic edifice of state. Every device of decoration and erratic suggestion seems to have been car- ried out, not only structurally, as in the great double spiral of its central stairway, but in its interpolated details and symbolism as well. It was at this time, too, that Frangois began to introduce the famous salamander into his Chambord 99 devices and ciphers; that most significant em- blem which one may yet see on wall and ceil- ing of Chambord surrounded by the motto : " Je me nourris et je meurs dans le feu." Chambord, first of all, gives one a very high opinion of Frangois Premier, and of the splen- dours with which he was wont to surround himself. The apartments are large and numer- Arms of Frani^ois Premier, at Chambord ous and are admirably planned and decorated, though, almost without exception, bare to-day of furniture or furnishings. To quote the opinion of Blondel, the cele- brated French architect: " The Chateau de Chambord, built under Frangois I. and Henri II., from the designs of Primatice, was never achieved according to the original plan. Louis XIII. and Louis XIV. contributed a cer- 100 Old Touraine and the Loire Country tain completeness, but the work was really pursued afterward according to the notions of one Sertio." The masterpiece of its constructive elements is its wonderful doubly spiralled central stair- case, which permits one to ascend or descend without passing another proceeding in the opposite direction at the same time. Whatever may have been the real significance of this great double spiral, it has been said that it played its not unimportant part in the intrigue and scandal of the time. It certainly is a won- der of its kind, more marvellous even than that spiral at Blois, attributed, with some doubt perhaps, to Leonardo da Vinci, and certainly far more beautiful than the clumsy round tower up which horses and carriages were once driven at Amboise. At all events, it probably meant something more than mere constructive ability, and a staircase which allows one individual to mount and another to descend without knowing of the presence of the other may assuredly be classed with those other mediaeval accessories, sliding panels, hidden doorways, and secret cabinets. Beneath the dome which terminates the stair- case in the Orleans wing are three caryatides Chambord 101 representing — it is doubtfully stated — Fran- Qois Premier, La Duchesse d'ljtampes, and Madame la Comtesse de Chateaubriand, — a trinity of boon companions in intrigue. In reality Chambord presents the curiously contrived arrangement of one edifice within an- other, as a glance of the eye at the plan will show. The fosse, the usual attribute of a great mediaeval chateau — it may be a dry one or a wet one, in this case it was a wet one — has disappeared, though' Brantome writes that he saw great iron rings let into the walls to which were attached " barques et grands bateaux/' which had made their way from the Loire via the dribbling Cosson. The Cosson still dribbles its life away to-day, its moisture having, to a great part, gone to irrigate the sandy Sologne, but formerly it was doubtless a much more ample stream. From the park the ornate gables and dormer- windows loom high above the green-swarded banks of the Cosson. It was so in Francois's time, and it is so to-day; nothing has been added to break the spread of lawn, except an iron-framed wash-house with red tiles and a sheet-iron chimney-pot beside the little river, 102 Old Touraine and the Loire Country and a tin-roofed garage for automobiles con- nected with the little inn outside the gates. The rest is as it was of yore, at least, the same as the old engravings of a couple of hun- dreds of years ago picture it, hence it is a great shame, since the needs of the tiny village could not have demanded it, that the foreground could not have been left as it originally was. The town, or rather village, or even hamlet, of Chambord is about the most abbreviated thing of its kind existent. There is practically no village ; there are a score or two of houses, an inn of the frankly tourist kind, which evi- dently does not cater to the natives, the afore- said wash-house by the river bank, the dwell- ings of the gamekeepers, gardeners, and work- men on the estate, and a diminutive church ris- ing above the trees not far away. These acces- sories practically complete the make-up of the little settlement of Chambord, on the borders of the Blaisois and Touraine. Chambord has been called top-heavy, but it is hardly that. Probably the effect is caused by its low-lying situation, for, as has been in- timated before, this most imposing of all of the Loire chateaux has the least desirable situa- tion of any. There is a certain vagueness and foreignness about the sky-line that is almost Chambord 103 Eastern, though we recognize it as pure Eenais- sance. Perhaps it is the magnitude and lone- someness of it all that makes it seem so strange, an effect that is heightened when one steps out upon its roof, with the turrets, tow- ers, and cupolas still rising high above. The ground-plan is equally magnificent, flanked at every corner by a great round tower, with another quartette of them at the angles of the interior court. Most of the stonework of the fabric is bril- liant and smooth, as if it were put up but yes- 104 Old Touraine and the Loire Country terday, and, beyond the occasional falling of a tile from the wonderful array of chimney- pots, but little evidences are seen exteriorly of its having decayed in the least. On the tower which flanks the little door where one meets the concierge and enters, there are un- mistakable marks of bullets and balls, which a revolutionary or some other fury left as me- mentoes of its passage. Considering that Chambord was not a prod- uct of feudal times, these disfigurements seem out of place; still its peaceful motives could hardly have been expected to have lasted al- ways. The southern facade is not excelled by the elevation of any residential structure of any age, and its outlines are varied and pleasing enough to satisfy the most critical ; if one par- dons the little pepper-boxes on the north and south towers, and perforce one has to pardon them when he recalls the magnifi.cence of the general disposition and sky-line of this mar- vellously imposing chateau of the Renais- sance. Frangois Premier made Chambord his fa- vourite residence, and in fact endowed Pierre Nepveu — who for this work alone will be con- sidered one of the foremost architects of the '!:S o Chambord 105 French Renaissance — with the inspiration for its erection in 1526. A prodigious amount of sculpture by Jean Cousin, Pierre Bontemps, Jean Goujon, and Germain Pilon was interpolated above the doorways and windows, in the framing thereof, and above the great fireplaces. Inside and out, above and below, were vast areas to be covered, and Frangois allowed his taste to have full sway. The presumptuous Frangois made much of this noble residence, perhaps because of his love of la cJiasse, for game abounded here- abouts, or perhaps because of his regard for the Comtesse Thoury, who occupied a neigh- bouring chateau. For some time before his death, Francois still lingered on at Chambord. Marguerite and her brother, both now considerably aged since the happier times of their childhood in Tou- raine, always had an indissoluble fondness for Chambord. Marguerite had now become Queen of Navarre, but her beauty had been dimmed with the march of time, and she no longer was able to comfort and amuse her kingly brother as of yore. His old pleasures and topics of conversation irritated him, and 106 Old Touraine and the Loire Country he had even tired of poetry, art, and political affairs. Above all, he shamefully and shamelessly abused women, at once the prop and the under- mining influence of his kingly power in days gone by. There is an existing record to the effect that he wrote some " window-pane " verse on the window of his private apartment to the following effect: " Souvent f emme varie ; Mai habile quis'y fie ! " If this be not apocryphal, the incident must have taken place long years before that cele- brated '^ window-pane " verse of Shenstone's, and FranQois is proven again a forerunner, as he was in many other things. Without doubt the Revolution did away with this square of glass, which — according to Pi- ganiol de la Force — existed in the middle of the eighteenth century. Perhaps Frangois's own jealous humour prompted him to write these cynical lines, and then again perhaps it is merely one of those fables which breathe the breath of life in some unaccountable manner, no one having been present at its birth, and hearsay and tradition accounting for it all. FranQois, truly, was failing, and he and his sister discussed but sorrowful subjects: the Chambord 107 death of liis favourite son, Charles, the inher- itor of the throne, at Abbeville, where he be- came infected with the plague, and also the death of him whom he called ' ' his old friend, ' ' Henry VIII. of England, a monarch whose amours were as numerous and celebrated as his own. Henri II. preferred the attractions of Anet to Chambord, while Catherine de Medici and Charles IX. cared more for Blois, Chaumont, and Chenonceaux. Louis XIII. and Louis XIV. only considered it as a rendezvous for the chase, and the latter 's successor, Louis XV., gave it to the illustrious Maurice de Saxe, the victor of Fontenoy, who spent his old age here, amid fetes, pleasures, and military parades. Near by are the barracks, built for the accom- modation of the regiment of horse formed by the marechal and devoted to his special guardi- anship and pleasure, and paid for by the king, who in turn repaid himself — with interest — from the public treasury. The exercising of this " little army " was one of the chief amuse- ments of the illustrious old soldier. « A de feints combats Lui-m@me en se jouant conduit les vieux soldats " — wrote the Abbe de Lille in contemporary times. King Stanislas of Poland lived here from 108 Old Touraine and the Loire Country 1725 to 1733, and later it was given to Marechal Berthier, by whose widow it was sold in 1821. It was bought by national subscription for a million and a half of francs and given to the Due de Bordeaux, who immediately com- menced its restoration, for it had been horribly mutilated by Marechal de Saxe, and the sur- rounding wood had been practically denuded under the Berthier occupancy. The Due de Bordeaux died in 1883, and his heirs, the Due de Parme and the Comte de Bardi, are now said to spend a quarter of a million annually in the maintenance of the estate, the income of which approximates only half that sum. There are thirteen great staircases in the edifice, and a room for every day in the year. On the ground floor is the Salle des Gardes, from which one mounts by the great spiral to another similar apartment with a barrel- vaulted roof, which in a former day was con- verted into a theatre, where in 1669-70 were held the first representations of " Pourceau- gnac " and '' Le Bourgeois Gentilhomme, " and where Moliere himself frequently ap- peared. The second floor is know as the '^ grandes t err asses '' and surrounds the base of the great Chambord 109 central lantern so admired from the exterior. On this floor, to the eastward, were the apart- ments of Frangois Premier. The chapel was constructed by Henri II., but the tribune is of the era of Louis XIV. This tribune is dec- orated with a fine tapestry, made by Madame Royale while imprisoned in the Temple. At the base of the altar is also a tapestry made and presented to the Comte de Chambord by the women of the Limousin. The apartments of Louis XIV. contain por- traits of Madame de Maintenon and Madame de Lafayette, a great painting of the ' ' Bataille de Fontenoy," and another of the Comte de Chambord on horseback. CHAPTEE V. CHEVEKNY, BEAUEEGARD, AND CHAUMONT From Chambord and its overpowering mas- siveness one makes his way to Chaumont, on the banks of the Loire below Blois, by easy stages across the plain of the Sologne. One leaves the precincts of Chambord by the back entrance, as one might call it, through six kilometres of forest road, like that by which one enters, and soon passes the little townlet of Bracieux. One gets glimpses of more or less modern residential chateaux once and again off the main road, but no remarkably interesting structures of any sort are met with until one reaches Cheverny. Just before Cheverny one passes Cour-Cheverny, with a curious old church and a quaint-looking little inn beside it. Cheverny itself is, however, the real attrac- tion, two kilometres away. Here the chateau is opened by its private owners from April to 110 Chateau de Cheverny Cheverny, Beauregard, Ohaumont 111 October of each year, and, while not such a grand establishment as many of its contem- poraries round about, it is in every way a per- fect residential edifice of the seventeenth cen- tury, when the flowery and ornate Eenaissance had given way to something more severely classical, and, truth to tell, far less pleasing in an artistic sense. Cheverny belongs to-day to the Marquis de Vibraye, one of those undying titles of the French nobility which thrive even in repub- lican France and uphold the best traditions of the noblesse of other days. The chateau was built much later than most of the neighbouring chateaux, in 1634, by the Comte de Cheverny, Philippe Hurault. It sits green-swarded in the midst of a beautifully wooded park, and the great avenue which faces the principal entrance extends for seven kilo- metres, a distance not excelled, if equalled, by any private roadway elsewhere. In its constructive features the chateau is more or less of rectangular outlines. The pa- vilions at each corner have their openings a la imperiale, with the domes, or lanterns, so cus- tomary during the height of the style under Louis XIV. An architect, Boyer by name, who came from Blois, where surely he had the op- 112 Old Touraine and the Loire Country portunity of having been well acquainted with a more beautiful style, was responsible for the design of the edifice at Cheverny. The interior decorations in Cordovan leather, the fine chimneypieces, and the many elaborate historical pictures and wall paintings, by Mos- nier, Clouet, and Mignard, are all of the best of their period; while the apartments them- selves are exceedingly ample, notably the Ap- partement du Roi, furnished as it was in the days of '* Vert G-alant," the Salle des Grardes, the library and an elaborately traceried stair- case. In the chapel is an altar-table which came from the Eglise St. Calais, in the chateau at Blois. Just outside the gates is a remarkable crotch- ety old stone church, with a dwindling, top- pling spire. It is poor and impoverished when compared with most French churches, and has a most astonishing timbered veranda, with a straining, creaking roof running around its two unobstructed walls. The open rafters are filled with all sorts of rubbish, and the local fire brigade keeps its hose and ladders there. A most suitable old rookery it is in which to start a first-class conflagration. Within are a few funeral marbles of the Hurault family, and the daily offices are con- Cheverny, Beauregard, Chaumont 113 114 Old Touraine and the Loire Country ducted with a pomp most unexpected. Alto- gether it forms, as to its fabric and its func- tions, as strong a contrast of activity and decay as one is likely to see in a long journey. The town itself is a sleepy, unprogressive place, where automobilists may not even buy essence a petrole, and, though boasting — if the indolent old town really does boast — a couple of thousand souls, one still has to jour- ney to Cour-Cheverny to send a telegraphic despatch or buy a daily paper. Between Cheverny and Blois is the Foret de Russy, which will awaken memories of the boar-hunts of Frangois I., which, along with art in all its enlightening aspects, appears to have been one of the chief pleasures of that monarch. Perhaps one ought to include also the love of fair women, but with them he was not so constant. On the road to Blois, also, one passes the Chateau de Beauregard; that is, one usually passes it, but he shouldn't. It is built, practi- cally, within the forest, on the banks of the little river Beauvron. An iron grille gives entrance to a beautiful park, and within is the chateau, its very name indicating the favour with which it was held by its royal owner. It was in 1520 that Frangois I. established it as Chevemy, Beauregard, Chaumont 115 a rendezvous de chasse. Under his son, Henri II., it was reconstructed, in part; en- tirely remodelled in the seventeenth century; and ^' modernized " — whatever that may mean — in 1809, and again, more lately, re- stored by the Due de Dino. It belongs to-day to the Comte de Cholet, who has tried his hand at '' restoration " as well. The history of this old chateau is thus seen to have been most varied, and it is pretty sure to have lost a good deal of its original char- acter in the transforming process. The interior is more attractive than is the exterior. There is a grand gallery of portraits of historical celebrities, more than 350, exe- cuted between 1617 and 1638 by Paul Ardier, Counsellor of State, who thus combined the accomplishment of the artist with the sagacity of the statesman. The ceilings of the great rooms are mostly elaborate works in enamel and carved oak, and there is a tiled floor (carrelage) in the portrait gallery, in blue faience, representing an army in the order of battle, which must have de- lighted the hearts of the youthful progeny who may have been brought up within the walls of the chateau. This pavement is moreover an 116 Old Touraine and the Loire Country excellent example of the craftsmanship of tile- making. One gains admission to the chateau freely from the concierge, who in due course expects her pourboire, and sees that she gets it. But what would you, inquisitive traveller I You have come here to see the sights, and Beaure- gard is well worth the price of admission, which is anything you like to give, certainly not less than a franc. One may return to Blois through the forest, or may continue his way down the river to Chaumont on the left bank. At Chaumont the Loire broadens to nearly double the width at Blois, its pebbles and sand- bars breaking the mirror-like surface into in- numerable pools and etangs. There is a bridge which connects Chaumont with the railway at Onzain and the great national highway from Tours to Blois. The bridge, however, is so hideous a thing that one had rather go miles out of his way than accept its hospitality. It is simply one of those unsympathetic wire-rope affairs with which the face of the globe is being covered, as engineering skill progresses and the art instinct dies out. The Chateau de Chaumont is charmingly situated, albeit it is not very accessible to -Si Chevemy, Beauregard, Chaumont 117 strangers after one gets there, as it is open to the public only on Thursdays, from July to December. It is exactly what one expects to find, — a fine riverside establishment of its epoch, and in architectural style combining the well-recognized features of late Gothic and the early Renaissance. It is not moss-grown or decrepit in any way, which fact, considering its years, is perhaps remarkable. The park of the chateau is only of moderate extent, but the structure itself is, compara- tively, of much larger proportions. The ideal view of the structure is obtained from midway on that ungainly bridge which spans the Loire at this point. Here, in the gold and purple of an autumn evening, with the placid and far- reaching Loire, its pools and its bars of sand and pebble before one, it is a scene which is as near idyllic as one is likely to see. The town itself is not attractive; one long, narrow lane-like street, lined on each side by habitations neither imposing nor of a tum- ble-down picturesqueness, borders the Loire. There is nothing very picturesque, either, about the homes of the vineyard workers round about. Below and above the town the great highrpad runs flat and straight between Tours and Blois on either side of the river, and auto- 118 Old Touraine and the Loire Country mobilists and cyclists now roll along where the state carriages of the court used to roll when Frangois Premier and his sons journeyed from one gay country house to another. It is to be inferred that the aspect of things at Chaumont has not changed much since that day, — always saving that spider-net wire bridge. The population of the town has doubt- less grown somewhat, even though small towns in France sometimes do not increase their population in centuries ; but the topographical Signature of Diane de Poitiers aspect of the long-drawn-out village, backed by green hills on one side and the Loire on the other, is much as it always has been. The chateau at Chaumont had its origin as far back as the tenth century, and its proprie- tors were successively local seigneurs. Counts of Blois, the family of Amboise, and Diane de Poitiers, who received it from Catherine in exchange for Chenonceaux. This was not a fair exchange, and Diane was, to some extent, justified in her complaints. Chaumont was for a time in the possession Cheverny, Beauregard, Chaumont 119 of Scipion Sardini, one of the Italian partisans of the Medici, '' whose arms bore trois sardines d' argent," and who had married Isabelle de la Tour, " la Demoiselle de Limieul " of unsa- voury reputation. The " Demoiselle de Limieul " was related, too, to Catherine, and was celebrated in the gallantries of the time in no enviable fashion. She was a member of that band of demoiselles whose business it was — by one fascination or another — to worm political secrets from the nobles of the court. One horrible scandal con- nected the unfortunate lady with the Prince de Conde, but it need not be repeated here. The Huguenots ridiculed it in those memorable verses beginning thus : " Puella ilia nobilis Quae erat tarn amabilis." After the reign of Sardini and of his direct successors, the house of Bullion, Chaumont passed through many hands. Madame de Stael arrived at the chateau in the early years of the nineteenth century, when she had received the order to separate herself from Paris, ** by at least forty leagues." She had made the circle of the outlying towns, hovering about Paris as a moth about a candle-flame; Rouen, Auxerre, Blois, Saumur, all had entertained her, but now 120 Old Touraine and the Loire Country she came to establish herself in this Loire cita- del. As the story goes, journeying from Sau- mur to Tours, by post-chaise, on the opposite side of the river, she saw the imposing mass of Chaumont rising high above the river-bed, and by her good graces and winning ways in- stalled herself in the affections of the then pro- prietor, M. Leray, and continued her residence " and made her court here for many years," Chaumont is to-day the property of the Prin- cesse de Broglie, who has sought to restore it, where needful, even to reestablishing the an- cient fosse or moat. This last, perhaps, is not needful; still, a moated chateau, or even a moated grange has a fascination for the sen- timentally inclined. At the drawbridge, as one enters Chaumont to-day, one sees the graven initials of Louis XII. and Anne de Bretagne, the arms of Georges d'Amboise, surmounted by his car- dinal's hat, and those of Charles de Chaumont, as well as other cabalistic signs: one a repre- sentation of a mountain (apparently) with a crater-like summit from which flames are breaking forth, while hovering about, back to back, are two C's: OC- The Renaissance ar- tists greatly affected the rebus, and this per- haps has some reference to the etymology of Cheverny, Beauregard, Chaumont 121 the name Cliaumont, which has been variously given as coming from Chwud Mont, Calvus Mont, and Chauve Mont. Georges d'Amboise, the first of the name, was born at Chaumont in 1460, the eighth son of a family of seventeen children. It was a far cry, as distances went in those days, from the shores of the shallow, limpid Loire to those of the forceful, turgent Seine at Rouen, where in the great Cathedral of Notre Dame, this first Georges of Amboise, having become an arch- bishop and a cardinal, was laid to rest beneath that magnificent canopied tomb before which visitors to the Norman capital stand in wonder. The mausoleum bears this epitaph, which in some small measure describes the activities of the man. " Pastor eram cleri, populi pater ; aurea sese Lilia subdebant, quercus et ipsa mihi. " Martuus en jaceo, morte extinguunter honores, Et virtus, mortis nescia, mort viret." His was not by any means a life of placidity and optimism, and he had the air and reputa- tion of doing things. There is a saying, still current in Touraine: " Laissez faire a Georges." The second of the same name, also an Arch- 122 Old Touraine and the Loire Country bishop of Rouen and a cardinal, succeeded his uncle in the see. He also is buried beneath the same canopy as his predecessor at Rouen. The main portal of the chateau leads to a fine quadrilateral court with an open gallery over- looking the Loire, which must have been a mag- nificent playground for the nobility of a former day. The interior embellishments are fine, some of the more noteworthy features being a grand staircase of the style of Louis XIL; the Salle des Gardes, with a painted ceiling showing the arms of Chaumont and Amboise ; the Salle du Conseil, with some fine tapestries and a remarkable tiled floor, depicting scenes of the chase; the Chambre de Catherine de Medici (she possessed Chaumont for nine years), containing some of the gifts presented to her upon her wedding with Henri II. ; and the curious Chambre de Ruggi- eri, the astrologer whom Catherine brought from her Italian home, and who was always near her, and kept her supplied with charms and omens, good and bad, and also her poisons. Ruggieri's observatory was above his apart- ment. It was at Chaumont that the astrologer overstepped himself, and would have used his magic against Charles IX. He did go so far as to make an image and inflict certain indig- Cheverny, Beauregard, Chaumont 123 nities upon it, with the belief that the same would befall the monarch himself. Ruggieri went to the galleys for this, but the scheming Catherine soon had him out again, and at work with his poisons and philtres. Finally there is the Chambre de Diane de Poitiers, Catherine's more than successful rival, with a bed (modern, it is said) and a series of sixteenth-century tapestries, with various other pieces of contemporary furni- ture. A portrait of Diane which decorates the apartment is supposed to be one of the three authentic portraits of the fair huntress. The chapel has a fine tiled pavement and some excellent glass. Chaumont is eighteen kilometres from Blois and the same distance from Amboise. It has not the splendour of Chambord, but it has a greater antiquity, and an incomparably finer situation, which displays its coiffed towers and their machicoulis and cornices in a manner not otherwise possible. It is one of those picture chateaux which tell a silent story quite inde- pendent of guide-book or historical narrative. It was M. Donatien Le Eay de Chaumont, the superintendent of the forests of Berry and the Blaisois, under Louis XVI., who gave hospi- tality to Benjamin Franklin, and turned over 124 Old Touraine and the Loire Country to the first American ambassador to France the occupancy of his house at Passy, where Frank- lin lived for nine consecutive years. Of this same M. de Chaumont Americans can- not have too high a regard, for his timely and judicious hospitality has associated his name, only less permanently than Franklin's, with the early fortunes of the American republic. Besides his other offices, M. de Chaumont was the intendant of the Hotel des Invalides, at Paris, holding confidential relations with the ministry of the young king, and was in the immediate enjoyment of a fortune which amounted to two and a half million of francs, besides owning, in addition to Chaumont on the Loire, another chateau in the Blaisois. This chateau he afterward tendered to John Adams, who declined the offer in a letter, written at Passy-sur-Seine, February 25, 1779, in the following words : "... To a mind as much addicted to retirement as mine, the situa- tion you propose would be delicious indeed, provided my country were at peace and my family with me ; but , separated from my family and with a heart bleeding with the wounds of its country, I should be the most miserable being on earth. ..." The potteries, which now form the stables Cheverny, Beauregard, Chaumont 125 of the chateau at Chaumont, are somewhat rem- iniscent of Franklin. M. de Chaumont had established a pottery here, where he had found a clay which had encouraged him to hope that he could compete with the English manufac- turers of the time. Here the Italian Nini, who was invited to Chaumont, made medallions much sought for by collectors, among others one of Franklin, which was so much admired as a work of art, and became so much in de- mand that in later years replicas were made and are well known to amateurs. The family of Le Ray de Chaumont were extensively known in America, where they be- came large landholders in New York State in the early nineteenth century, and the head of the family seems to have been an amiable and popular landlord. The towns of Rayville and Chaumont in New York State still perpetuate his name. The two male members of the family secured American wives; Le Ray himself married a Miss Coxe, and their son a Miss Jahel, both of New York. From an anonymous letter to the New York Evening Post of November 19, 1885, one quotes the following: ' ' It was in Blois that I first rummaged 126 Old Touraine and the Loire Country among these shops, whose attractions are al- most a rival to those of the castle, though this is certainly one of the most interesting in France. The traveller will remember the long flight of stone steps which climbs the steep hill in the centre of the town. Near the foot of this hill there is a well-furnished book-shop; its windows display old editions and rich bindings, and tempt one to enter and inquire for antiqui- ties. Here I found a quantity of old notarial documents and diplomas of college or uni- versity, all more or less recently cleared out from some town hall, or unearthed from neigh- bouring castle, and sold by a careless owner, as no longer valuable to him. This was the case with most of the parchments I found at Blois ; they had been acquired within a few years from the castle of Madon, and from a former pro- prietor of the neighbouring castle of Chaumont (the calvus mons of mediaeval time), and most of them pertained to the affairs of the sei- gneiirie de Chaumont. Contracts, executions, sales of vineyards and houses, legal decisions, actes de vente, loans on mortgages, the mar- riage contract of a M. Lubin, — these were the chief documents that I found and pur- chased." The traveller may not expect to come upon Cheverny, Beauregard, Chaumont 127 duplicates of these treasures again, but the incident only points to the fact that much doc- umentary history still lies more or less deeply buried. CHAPTER VI. toueaine: the garden spot of France " C'est une grande dame, une princesse altiere, Chacun de ses chateaux, marqu6 du sceau royal, Lui fait une toilette en dentelle de pierre Et son splendide fleuve un miroir de cristal." It is difficult to write appreciatively of Tou- raine without echoing the words of some one who has gone before, and it is likely that those who come after will find the task no easier. Truly, as a seventeenth-century geographer has said : ' ' Here is the most delicious and the most agreeable province of the kingdom. It has been named the garden of France because of the softness of its climate, the affability of its people, and the ease of its life." The poets who have sung the praises of Tou- raine are many, Eonsard, Remy Belleau, Du Bellay, and for prose authors we have at the head, Rabelais, La Fontaine, Balzac, and Alfred de Vigny. Merely to enumerate them all would 128 Touraine: Garden Spot of France 129 be impossible, but they furnish a fund of quot- able material for the traveller when he is writ- ing home, and are equally useful to the maker of guide-books. One false note on Touraine, only, has ever rung out in the world of literature, and that was from Stendahl, who said: " La Belle Tou- raine n' exist e pas! '' The pages of Alfred de Vigny and Balzac answer this emphatically, and to the contrary, and every returning trav- eller apparently sides with them and not with Stendahl. How can one not love its prairies, gently sloping to the caressing Loire, its rolling hills and dainty ravines? The broad blue Loire is always vague and tranquil here, at least one seems always to see it so, but the beauty of Touraine is, after all, a quiet beauty which must be seen to be appreciated, and lived with to be loved. It is a land of most singular attractions, neither too hot nor too cold, too dry nor too damp, with a sufficiency of rain,, and an abun- dance of sunshine. Its market-gardens are prolific in their product, its orchards overflow- ing with plenitude, and its vineyards generous in their harvest. Touraine is truly the region where one may 130 Old Touraine and the Loire Country read history without books, with the very pages of nature punctuated and adorned with the marvels of the French Renaissance. Louis XI. gave the first impetus to the alliance of the great domestic edifice — which we have come to distinguish as the residential chateau — with the throne, and the idea was amplified by Charles VIII. and glorified by Frangois Premier. In the brilliant, if dissolute, times of the early sixteenth century Francois Premier and his court travelled down through this same Touraine to Loches and to Amboise, where Francois's late gaoler, Charles Quint, was to be received and entertained. It was after FranQois had returned from his involuntary exile in Spain, and while he was still in res- idence at the Louvre, that the plans for the journey were made. To the Duchesse d'Etampes Frangois said, — the duchess who was already more than a rival of both Diane and the Comtesse de Chateaubriant, — ' ' I must tear myself away from you to-morrow. I shall await my brother Charles at Amboise on the Loire. ' ' *' Shall you not revenge yourself upon him, for his cruel treatment of you? " said the wily favourite of the time. " If he, like a fool. Touraine: Garden Spot of France 131 comes to Touraine, will you not make him re- voke the treaty of Madrid or shut him up in one of Louis XL's oubliettes? " '' I will persuade him, if possible," said Frangois, " but I shall never force him." In due time Frangois did receive his brother king at Amboise and it was amid great cere- mony and splendour. His guest could not, or would not, mount steps, so that great inclined plane, up which a state coach and its horses might go, was built. Probably there was a good reason for the emperor's peculiarity, for that worthy or unworthy monarch finally died of gout in the monastery of San Juste. The meeting here at Amboise was a grand and ceremonious affair and the Spanish mon- arch soon came to recognize a possible enemy in the royal favourite, Anne de Pisselieu. The emperor's eyes, however, melted with admira- tion, and he told her that only in France could one see such a perfection of elegance and beauty, with the result that — as is popularly adduced — the susceptible, ambitious, and un- faithful duchess betrayed Frangois more than once in the affairs attendant upon the subse- quent wars between France, England, and Spain. From Touraine, in the sixteenth century. 132 Old Touraine and the Loire Country spread that influence which left its impress even on the capital of the kingdom itself, not only in respect to architectural art, but in manners and customs as well. Whatever may be the real value of the Renaissance as an artistic expression, the dis- cussion of it shall have no place here, beyond the qualifying statement that what we have come to know as the French Renaissance — which undeniably grew up from a transplanted Italian germ — proved highly tempting to the mediaeval builder for all manner of edifi.ces, whereas it were better if it had been confined to civic and domestic establishments and left the church pure in its full-blown Gothic forms. Curiously enough, here in Touraine, this is just what did happen. The Renaissance in- fluence crept into church-building here and there — and it is but a short step from the '^ gothique rayonnant " to what are recognized as well-defined Renaissance features ; but it is more particularly in respect to the great cha- teaux, and even smaller dwellings, that the superimposed Italian details were used. A notable illustration of this is seen in the Cathe- dral of St. Gatien at Tours. It is very beauti- ful and has some admirable Gothic features, but there are occasional constructive details, as Touraine: Garden Spot of France 133 well as those for decorative effect alone, which are decidedly not good Gothic; but, as they are, likewise, not Renaissance, they hence can- not be laid to its door, but rather to the archi- tect's eccentricity. In the smaller wayside churches, such as one sees at Cormery, at Cheverny, and at Cour- Cheverny, there is scarcely a sign of Renais- sance, while their neighbouring chateaux are nothing else, both in construction and in deco- ration. The Chateau de Langeais is, for the most part, excellent Gothic, and so is the church near by. Loches has distinct and pure Gothic details both in its church and its chateau, quite apart from the Hotel de Ville and that portion of the chateau now used as the Sous-Prefecture, which are manifestly Renaissance; hence here in Touraine steps were apparently taken to keep the style strictly non-ecclesiastical. A glance of the eye at the topography of this fair province stamps it at once as something quite different from any other traversed by the Loire. Two of the great '^ routes nationales " cross it, the one via Orleans, leading to Nantes, and the other via Chartres, going to Bordeaux. It is crossed and recrossed by innumerable * * routes secondaires, " " departementales, ' ' 134 Old Touraine and the Loire Country " vicinales " and " particulieres, " second to none of their respective classes in other coun- tries, for assuredly the roads of France are the best in the world. Many of these great ways of communication replaced the ancient Roman roads, which were the pioneers of the magnificent roadways of the France of to-day. Almost invariably Touraine is flat or rolling, its highest elevation above the sea being but a hundred and forty-six metres, scarce four hun- dred and fifty feet, a fact which accounts also for the gentle flow of the Loire through these parts. All the fruits of the southland are found here, the olive alone excepted. Mortality, it is said, and proved by figures, is lower than in any other part of France, and for this reason many dwellers in the large cities, if they may not all have a mediaeval chateau, have at least a villa, far away from '^ the madding crowd," and yet within four hours ' travel of the capital itself. Touraine, properly speaking, has no natural frontiers, as it is not enclosed by rivers or mountains. It is, however, divided by the Loire into two distinct regions, the Meridionale and the Septentrionale ; but the dress, the physiognomy, the language, and the predilec- 134 Old Touraine and the Loire Country "' vicinales " and " particulieres, " second to none of their respective classes in other coun- tries, for assuredly the roads of France are the best in the world. Many of these great ways of communication replaced the ancient Roman roads, which were the pioneers of the magnificent roadways of the France of to-day. Almost invariably Touraine is flat or rolling, its highest elevation above the sea being but a hundred and forty-six metres, scarce four hun- dred and fifty feet, a fact which accounts also for the gentle flow of the Loire through these parts. T^L T ' ' T" ' All the iruits of me southland are found here, the olive alone excepted. Mortality, it is said, and proved by figures, is lower than in any other part of France, and for this reason many dwellers in the large cities, if they may not all have a medigpval chateau, have at least a villa, far away from '' the madding crowd," and yet within four hours ' travel of the capital itself. Touraine, properly speaking, has no natural frontiers, as it is not enclosed by rivers or mountains. It is, however, divided by the Tjoire into two distinct regions, the Meridionale and the Septentrionale ; but the dress, the physiognomy, the language, and the predilec- \ -* .«Wt" ' -•«i','»|NSV"' "WtiTfe"!™"^^ Touraine: Garden Spot of France 135 tions of the people are everywhere the same, though the two sections differ somewhat in temperament. In the south, the Tourangeau is timid and obliging, but more or less en- grossed in his affairs; in the north, he is proud, egotistical, and a little arrogant, but, above all, he likes his ease and comfort, some- thing after the manner of ' ' mynheer ' ' of Hol- land. These are the characteristics which are enumerated by Stanislas Bellanger of Tours, in "La Touraine Ancienne et Moderne," and they are traceable to-day, in every particular, to one who knows well the by-paths of the region. Formerly the peasant was, in his own words, '' sous la main de M. le comte/' but, with the coming of the eighteenth century, all this was changed, and the conditions which, in England, succeeded feudalism, are unknown in Touraine, as indeed throughout France. The two great divisions which nature had made of Touraine were further cut up into five petits pays; les Varennes, le Veron, la Champeigne, la Brenne, and les Creatines ; names which exist on some maps to-day, but which have lost, in a great measure, their former distinction. 136 Old Touraine and the Loire Country There is a good deal to be said in favour of the physical and moral characteristics of the inhabitants of Touraine. Just as the descend- ants of the Phoceans, the original settlers of Marseilles, differ from the natives of other parts of France, so, too, do the Tourangeaux differ from the inhabitants of other provinces. The people of Touraine are a mixture of Eo- mans, Visigoths, Saracens, Alains, Normans and Bretons, Anglais and Gaulois ; but all have gradually been influenced by local conditions, so that the native of Touraine has become a distinct variety all by himself. The delicious- ness of the " garden of France " has altered him so that he stands to-day as more distinctly French than the citizen of Paris itself. Touraine, too, has the reputation of being that part of France where is spoken the purest French. This, perhaps, is as true of the Blai- sois, for the local bookseller at Blois will tell one with the most dulcet and understandable enunciation that it is at Blois that one hears the best accent. At any rate, it is something found within a charmed circle, of perhaps a hundred miles in diameter, that does not find its exact counterpart elsewhere. As Seville stands for the Spanish tongue, Florence for Touraine: Garden Spot of France 137 the Italian, and Dresden for the German, so Tours stands for the French. The history of the Loire in Touraine, as is the case at Le Puy, at Nevers, at Sancerre, or at Orleans, is abundant and vivid, and the monuments which line its banks are numerous and varied, from the fortress-chateau of Am- boise to the Cathedral of St. Gatien at Tours with its magnificent bejewelled facade. The ruined towers of the castle of Cinq-Mars, with its still more ancient Roman '' pile," and the feudal chateaux of the countryside are all elo- quent, even to-day, in their appeal to all lovers of history and romance. There are some verses, little knowivin praise of the Loire, as it comes through Touraine, written by Houdon des Landes, who lived near Tours in the eighteenth century. The fol- lowing selection expresses their quality well and is certainly worthy to rank with the best that Balzac wrote in praise of his beloved Tou- raine. " La Loire enorgueillit ses antiques cit^s, Et couronne ses bords de coteaux enchant^s ; Dans ses vallons heureux, sur ses rives aim^es, Les pr6s ont d6ploy6 leurs robes parfum^es ; Le saule humide et souple y lance ses rameaux. Ses coteaux sont peupl^s, et le rocher docile A rhomme qui le creuse offre un cliampgtre asile. 138 Old Touraine and the Loire Country De notre vieille Gaule, 6 fleuve paternel ! Fleuve des doux climats ! la Valliere et Sorel Sur tes bords fortunes naquirent, et la gloire A I'une dut I'amour, a 1' autre la victoire." Again and again Balzac's words echo in one's ears from his " Scene de la Vie de Pro- vince." The following quotations are typical of the whole: " The softness of the air, the beauty of the climate, all tend to a certain ease of existence and simplicity of manner which encourages an appreciation of the arts." *' Touraine is a land to foster the ambition of a Napoleon and the sentiment of a Byron." Another writer, A. Beaufort, a publicist of the nineteenth century, wrote: n rpj^g Tourangeaux resemble the good Adam in the garden of Eden. They drink, they eat, they sleep and dream, and care not what their neighbour may be doing." Touraine was indeed, at one time, a veritable Eden, though guarded by fortresses, halle- hardes, and arquebuses, but not the less an Eden for all that. In addition it was a land where, in the middle ages, the seigneurs made history, almost without a parallel in France or elsewhere. Touraine, truly enough, was the centre of the Touraine: Garden Spot of France 139 old French monarchy in the perfection of its pomp and state; but it is also true that Tou- raine knew little of the serious aif airs of kings, though some all-important results came from events happening within its borders. Paris was the law-making centre in the six- teenth century, and Touraine knew only the domestic life and pleasures of royalty. Eti- quette, form, and ceremony were all relaxed, or at least greatly modified, and the court spent in the country what it had levied in the capital. Curiously enough, the monarchs were omni- potent and influential here, though immedi- ately they quartered themselves in Paris their powers waned considerably; indeed, they seemed to lose their influence upon ministers and vassals alike. Louis XIII., it is true, tried to believe that Paris was France, — like the Anglo-Saxon tour- ists who descend upon it in such great numbers to-day, — and built Versailles ; but there was never much real glory about its cold and pomp- ous walls. The fortunes of the old chateaux of Touraine have been most varied. Chambord is vast and bare, elegant and pompous; Blois, just across the border, is a tourist sight of the first rank whose salamanders and porcupines have been 140 Old Touraine and the Loire Country well cared for by the paternal French gov- ernment. Chanmont, Chenonceaux, Langeais, Azay-le-Eideau, and half a dozen others are still inhabited, and are gay with the life of twentieth-century luxury; Amboise is a pos- session of the Orleans family; Loches is, in part, given over to the uses of a sous-prefec- ture; and Chinon's chateaux are but half -de- molished ruins. Besides these there are nu- merous smaller residential chateaux of the nobility scattered here and there in the Loire watershed. There have been writers who have sought to commiserate with " the poor peasant of Tou- raine," as they have been pleased to think of him, and have deplored the fact that his sole possession was a small piece of ground which he and his household cultivated, and that he lived in a little whitewashed house, built with his own hands, or those of his ancestors. Though the peasant of Touraine, as well as of other parts of the countryside, works for an absurdly small sum, and for considerably less than his brother nearer Paris, he sells his prod- uce at the nearest market-town for a fair price, and preserves a spirit of independence which is as valuable as are some of the things which are thrust upon him in some other lands Touraine: Garden Spot of France 141 under the guise of benevolent charity, really patronage of a most demeaning and un-moral sort. At night the Touraine peasant returns to his own hearthstone conscious that he is a man like all of his fellows, and is not a mere atom ground between the upper and nether millstones of the landlord and the squire. He cooks his " bouillie " over three small sticks and retires to rest with the fond hope that on the next market-day following the prices of eggs, chickens, caulijQowers, or tomatoes may be higher. He is the stuff that successful citi- zens are made of, and is not to be pitied in the least, even though it is only the hundredth man of his community who ever does rise to more wealth than a mere competency. Touraine, rightly enough, has been called the garden of France, but it is more than that, much more; it is a warm, soft land where all products of the soil take on almost a subtrop- ical luxuriance. Besides the great valley of the Loire, there are the valleys of the tributaries which run into it, in Touraine and the imme- diate neighbourhood, all of which are fertile as only a river-bottom can be. It is true that there are numerous formerly arid and sandy plateaux, quite tinlike the abundant plains of La Beauce, though to-day, by care and skill, 142 Old Touraine and the Loire Country they have been made to rival the rest of the region in productiveness. The Departement d'Indre et Loire is the richest agricultural region in all France so far as the variety and abundance of its product goes, rivalling in every way the opulence of the Burgundian hillsides. Above all, Touraine stands at the head of the vine-culture of all the Loire valley, the territoire vinicole lapping over into Anjou, where are produced the cele- brated vins hlancs of Saumur. The vineyard workers of Touraine, in the neighbourhood of Loches, have clung closely to ancient customs, almost, one may say, to the destruction of the industry, though of late new methods have set in, and, since the blight now some years gone by, a new prosperity has come. The day worker, who cares for the vines and superintends the picking of the grapes by the womenfolk and the children, works for two francs fifty centimes per day; but he invari- ably carries with him to the scene of his labours a couple of cutlets from a young and juicy hrebis, or even a poulet roti, so one may judge from this that his pay is ample for his needs in this land of plenty. In the morning he takes his bowl of soup and a cup of white wine, and of course huge hunks The Vintage in Tourainc Touraine: Garden Spot of France 143 of bread, and finally coffee, and on each Sun- day he has his roti a la maison. All this demon- strates the fact that the French peasant is more of a meat eater in these parts than he is com- monly thought to be. Touraine has no peculiar beauties to offer the visitor; there is nothing outre about it to interest one; but, rather, it wins by sheer charm alone, or perhaps a combination of charms and excellencies makes it so truly a delectable land. The Tourangeaux themselves will tell you, when speaking of Eabelais and Balzac, that it is the land of '' haute graisse, feconde et spiri- tuelle/' It is all this, and, besides its spiritu- elle components, it will supply some very real and substantial comforts. It is the Eden of the gourmandiser of such delicacies as truffes, rilettes, and above all, pruneaux, which you get in one form or another at nearly every meal. Most of the good things of life await one here in abundance, with kitchen-gardens and vine- yards at every one's back door. Truly Tou- raine is a land of good living. Life runs its course in Touraine, '' facile et 'bonne," without any extremes of joy or sor- row, without chimerical desires or infinite de- spair, and the agreeable sensations of life pre- 144 Old Touraine and the Loire Country dominate, — the first essential to real happi- ness. Some one has said, and certainly not with- out reason, that every Frenchman has a touch of Rabelais and of Voltaire in his make-up. This is probably true, for France has never been swept by a wave of puritanism such as has been manifest in most other countries, and le gros rire is still the national philosophy. In a former day a hearty laugh, or at least an amused cynicism, diverted the mind of the martyr from threatened torture and even vio- lent death. Brinvilliers laughed at those who were to torture her to death, and De la Barre and Danton cracked jokes and improvised puns upon the very edge of their untimely graves. Touraine has the reputation of being a won- derfully productive field for the book collector, though with books, like many other treasures of a past time, the day has passed when one may " pick up " for two sous a MS. worth as many thousands of francs ; but still bargains are even now found, and if one wants great calf-covered tomes, filled with fine old engrav- ings, bearing on the local history of the pays, he can generally find them at all prices here in old Touraine. There was a more or less apocryphal story Touraine: Garden Spot of France 145 told us and the landlady of our inn concerning a find which a guest had come upon in a little roadside hamlet at which he chanced to stop. He was one of those omnipresent commis voy- ageurs who thread the French provinces up and down, as no other country in the world is '' travelled " or '' drummed." He was the representative for a brandy shipper, one of those substantial houses of the cognac region whose product is mostly sold only in France; but this fact need not necessarily put the indi- vidual very far down in the social scale. In- deed, he was a most amiable and cultivated person. Our fellow traveller had come to a village where all the available accommodations of the solitary inn were already engaged; therefore he was obliged to put up with a room in the town, which the landlord hunted out for him. Eepairing to his room without any thought save that of sleep, the traveller woke the next morn- ing to find the sun streaming through the opaqueness of a brilliantly coloured window. Not stained glass here, surely, thought the stranger, for his lodging was a most humble one. It proved to be not glass at all ; merely four great vellum leaves, taken from some an- cient tome and stuck into the window-framing 146 Old Touraine and the Loire Country where the glass ought to have been. Daylight was filtering dimly through the rich colouring, and it took but a moment to become convinced that the sheets were something rare and valu- able. He learned that the pages were from an old Latin MS., and that the occupant of the lit- tle dwelling had used '' the paper" in the place of the glass which had long since disappeared. The vellum and its illuminations had stood the weather well, though somewhat dimmed in com- parison with the brilliancy of the remaining folios, which were found below-stairs. There were in all some eighty pages, which were pur- chased for a modest forty sous, and everybody satisfied. The volume had originally been found by the father of the old dame who then had pos- session of it in an old chateau in revolutionary times. Whether her honoured parent was a pillager or a protector did not come out, but for all these years the possession of this fine work meant no more to this Tourangelle than a supply of '' paper " for stopping up broken window-panes. * ' She parted readily enough with the remain- ing leaves," said our Frenchman, '^ but noth- ing would induce her to remove those which filled the window." '^ No, we have no more Touraine: Garden Spot of France 147 glass, and these have answered quite well for a long time now," she said. And such is the simplicity of the French provincial, even to-day — sometimes. CHAPTEE VII. AMBOISE As one approaches Amboise, he leaves the comparatively insalubrious plain of the So- logne and the Blaisois and enters Touraine. Amboise! What history has been made there; what a wealth of action its memories recall, and what splendour, gaiety, and sadness its walls have held! An entire book might be written about the scenes which took place under its roof. To-day most travellers are content to rush over its apartments, gaze at its great round tower, view the Loire, which is here quite at its best, from the battlements, and, after a brief admiration of the wonderfully sculptured por- tal of its chapel, make their way to Chenon- ceaux, or to the gay little metropolis of Tours. No matter whither one turns his steps from Amboise, he will not soon forget this great for- tress-chateau and the memories of the petite hande of blondes and brunettes who followed in the wake of Frangois Premier. 148 Chateau d'Amboise 1 Amboise 149 Here, and at Blois, the recollections of this little band are strong in the minds of students of romance and history. Some one has said that along the corridors of Amboise one still may meet the wraiths of those who in former days went airily from one pleasure to another, but this of course depends upon the mood and sentiment of the visitor. Amboise has a very good imitation of the climate of the south, and the glitter of the Loire at midday in June is about as torrid a picture as one can paint in a northern clime. It is not that it is so very hot in degree, but that the lack of shade-trees along its quays gives Am- boise a shimmering resemblance to a much warmer place than it really is. The Loire is none too ample here, and frets its way, as it does through most of its lower course, through banks of sand and pebbles in a more or less vain effort to look cool. Amboise is old, for, under the name of Am- batia, it existed in the fourth century, at which epoch St. Martin, the patron of Tours, threw down a pagan pyramidal temple here and es- tablished Christianity; and Clovis and Alaric held their celebrated meeting on the He St. Jean in 496. It was not long after this, ac- cording to the ancient writers, that some sort 160 Old Touraine and the Loire Country of a fortified chateau took form here. Louis- le-Begue gave Amboise to the Counts of Anjou, and Hughes united the two independent sei- gneuries of the chateau and the bourg. After the Counts of Anjou succeeded the Counts of Berry, Charles VII., by appropriation, confis- cation, seizure, or whatever you please to call it, — history is vague as to the real motive, — united Amboise to the possessions of the Crown in 1434. Louis XI. lived for a time at this strong fortress-chateau, before he turned his affections so devotedly to Plessis-les-Tours. Charles VIII. was born and died here, and it was he who added the Renaissance details, or at least the first of them, upon his return from Italy. Indeed, it is to him and to the nobles who followed in his train during his Italian travels that the introduction of the Benaissance into France is commonly attributed. It was at Amboise that Charles VIII., forget- ful of the miseries of his Italian campaign, set about affairs of state with a renewed will and vigour. He was personally superintending some alterations in the old castle walls, and instructing the workmen whom he brought from Italy with him as to just how far they might introduce those details which the world has come to know as Renaissance, when, in Amboise 151 passing beneath a low overhanging beam, he struck his head so violently that he expired almost immediately (April 17, 1498). Louis XII., the superstitious, lived here for some time, and here occurred some of the most important events in the life of the great Fran- gois, the real popularizer of the new architec- tural Eenaissance. It was in the old castle of Amboise, the early home of Louis XII., that his appointed succes- sor, his son-in-law and second cousin, Frangois, was brought up. Here he was educated by his mother, Louise de Savoie, Duchesse d'Angou- leme, together with that bright and shining light, that Marguerite who was known as the '' Pearl of the Valois," poetess, artist, and court intriguer. Here the household formed what in the early days Frangois himself was pleased to call a '* trinity of love." Throughout the structure may yet be seen the suggestions of Francois's artistic instincts, traced in the window-framings of the fa§ade, in the interior decorations of the long gallery, and on the terrace hanging high above the Loire. In the park and in the surrounding forest Frangois and his sister Marguerite passed many happy days of their childhood. Mar- 152 Old Touraine and the Loire Country guerite, who had already become known as the " tenth muse," had already thought out her " Heptameron," whilst Frangois tried his prentice hand at love-rhyming, an expression of sentiment which at a later period took the form of avowals in person to his favourites. One recalls those stanzas to the memory of Agnes Sorel, beginning: «' Gentille Agnes plus de loz tu m^rite, La cause 6tait de France recouvrir ; Que ce que pent dedans un cloitre ouvrir Close nonnaine ? ou bien d6vot hermits ? " Frangois was more than a lover of the beau- tiful. His appreciation of architectural art amounted almost to a passion, and one might well claim him as a member of the architectural guild, although, in truth, he was nothing more than a generous patron of the craftsmen of his day. FrauQois was the real father of the French Eenaissance, the more splendid flower which grew from the Italian stalk. He had no liking for the Van Eycks and Holbeins of the Dutch school, reserving his favour for the frankly languid masters from the south. He brought from Italy Cellini, Primaticcio, and the great Leonardo, who it is said had a hand in that Amboise 153 wonderful shell-like spiral stairway in the cha- teau at Blois. By just what means Da Vinci was inveigled from Italy will probably never be known. The art-loving Francois visited Milan, and among its curiosities was shown the even then cele- brated '' Last Supper " of Leonardo. The next we know is that, " Frangois repasse les Alpes ayant avec lui Mon Sieur Lyonard, son peintre." Leonardo was given a pension of seven ecus de France per year and a residence near Amboise. Vasari recounts very precisely how Leonardo expired in the arms of his kingly patron at Amboise, but on the other hand, the court chronicles have said that Frangois was at St. Germain on that day. Be this as it may, the intimacy was a close one, and we may be sure that Fran§ois felt keenly the demise of this most celebrated painter of his court. It was during those early idyllic days at Amboise that the character of Frangois was formed, and the marvel is that the noble and endearing qualities did not exceed the baser ones. To be sure his after lot was hard, and his real and fancied troubles many, and they were not made the less easy to bear because of his numerous female advisers. In his youth at Amboise his passions still 154 Old Touraine and the Loire Country slumbered, but when they did awaken, they burst forth with an unquenchable fury. Mean- time he was working off any excess of imag- ination by boar-hunts and falconry in the neigh- bouring forest of Chanteloup, and had more than one hand-to-hand affray with resentful citizens of the town, when he encroached upon what they considered their traditional pre- serves. So he grew to man's estate, but the life that he lived in his youth under the kingly roof of the chateau at Amboise gave him the benefits of all the loyalty which his fellows knew, and it helped him carry out the ideas which were bequeathed to him by his uncle. It was at a sitting of the court at Amboise, when FrauQois was still under his mother's wing, — at the age of twenty only, — that the Bourbon affair finally came to its head. Many notables were mixed up in it as partisans of the ungrateful and ambitious Bourbon, Charles de Montpensier, Connetable de France. It was an office only next in power to that of the sov- ereign himself, and one which had been allowed to die out in the reign of Louis XI. The final outcome of it all was that Frangois became a prisoner at Pavia, through the treachery of the Connetable and his followers, who went over AmTboise 155 en masse to Frangois's rival, Charles V., who, as Charles II., was King of Spain. Of the subsequent meeting with the Emperor Charles on French soil, Frangois said to the Duchesse d'^fitampes: ''It is with regret that I leave you to meet the emperor at Amboise on the Loire. ' ' And he added : ' ' You will fol- low me with the queen." His queen at this time was poor Eleanor of Portugal, herself a Spanish princess, Claude of France, his first wife, having died. " These two," says Bran- tome, " were the only virtuous women of his household. ' ' The Emperor Charles was visibly affected by the meeting, though, it is true, he had no love for his old enemy, Frangois. Perhaps it was on account of the duchess, for whom Frangois had put aside Diane. At any rate, the emperor was gallant enough to say to her : "It is only in France that I have seen such a perfection of elegance and beauty. My brother, your king, should be the envy of all the sovereigns of Europe. Had I such a cap- tive at my palace in Madrid, there were no ransom that I would accept for her." Frangois cared not for the lonely Spanish princess whom he had made his queen; but he was somewhat susceptible to the charms of 156 Old Touraine and the Loire Country his daughter-in-law, Catherine de Medici, the wife of his son Henri, who, when at Amboise,. was his ever ready companion in the chase. Frangois was inordinately fond of the hunt, and made of it a most strenuous pastime, full of danger and of hard riding in search of the boar and the wolf, which abounded in the thick underwood in the neighbourhood. One won- ders where they, or, rather, their descendants, have disappeared, since nought in these days but a frightened hare, a partridge, or perhaps a timid deer ever crosses one's path, as he makes his way by the smooth roads which cross and recross the forest behind Amboise. When Frangois II. was sixteen he became the nominal king of France. To Amboise he and his young bride came, having been brought thither from Blois, for fear of the Huguenot rising. The court settled itself forthwith at Amboise, where the majestic feudal castle piled itself high up above the broad, limpid Loire, feeling comparatively secure within the protec- tion of its walls. Here the Loire had widened to the pretensions of a lake, the river being spanned by a bridge, which crossed it by the help of the island, as it does to-day. Over this old stone bridge the court ap- proached the castle, the retinue brilliant with Amboise , 157 all the trappings of a luxurious age, archers, pages, and men-at-arms. The king and his new-found bride, the winsome Mary Stuart, rode well in the van. In their train were Cath- erine, the " queen-mother " of three kings, the Cardinal de Lorraine, the Due de Guise, the Due de Nemours, and a vast multitude of gay retainers, who were moved about from place to place like pawns upon the chess-board, and with about as much consideration. The gentle Mary Stuart, born in 1542, at Linlithgow, in stern Caledonia, of a French mother, — Marie de Lorraine, — was doomed to misfortune, for her father, the noble James V., prophesied upon his death-bed that the dynasty would end with his daughter. At the tender age of five Mary was sent to France and placed in a convent. Her education was afterward continued at court under the direction of her uncle, the Cardinal de Lor- raine. By ten she had become well versed in French, Latin, and Italian, and at one time, according to Brantome, she gave a discourse on literature and the liberal arts — so flourish- ing at the time — before the king and his court. Eonsard was her tutor in versification, which became one of her favourite pursuits. Mary Stuart's charms were many. She was 158 Old Touraine and the Loire Country tall and finely formed, with auburn hair shin- ing like an aureole above her intellectual fore- head, and with a skin of such dazzling white- ness — a trite saying, but one which is used by Brantome — ' ' that it outrivalled the white- ness of her veil." In the spring of 1558, when she was but six- teen, Mary Stuart was married to the Dauphin, the weak, sickly Frangois II., himself but a youth. He was, however, sincerely and deeply fond of his young wife. Unexpectedly, through the death of Henri II. at the hands of Montgomery at that ever de- batable tournament, Frangois II. ascended the throne of France, and Mary Stuart saw herself exalted to the dizzy height which she had not so soon expected. She became the queen of two kingdoms, and, had the future been more pro- pitious, the whole map of Europe might have been changed. Disease had marked the unstable Francois for its own, and within a year he passed from the throne to the grave, leaving his young queen a widow and an orphan. Shortly afterward '^ la reine blanche " re- turned to her native Scotland, bidding France that long, last, sad adieu so often quoted : Amboise 159 " Farewell, beloved France, to thee 1 Best native land, The cherished strand That nursed my tender infancy ! Farewell my childhood's happy day ! The bark, which bears me thus away, Bears but the poorer moiety hence, The nobler half remains with thee, I leave it to thy confidence. But to remind thee still of me 1 " The young sovereigns had had a most stately suite of apartments prepared for them at Am- boise, the lofty windows reaching from floor to ceiling and overlooking the river and the vast terrace where was so soon to be enacted that bloody drama to which they were to be made unwilling witnesses. This gallery was wainscoted with old oak and hung with rich leathers, and the lofty ceil- ing was emblazoned with heraldic emblems and monograms, as was the fashion of the day. Brocades and tapestries, set in great gold frames, lined the walls, and, in a boudoir or retiring-room beyond, still definitely to be rec- ognized, was a remarkable series of embroid- ered wall decorations, a tapestry of flowers and fruits with an arabesque border of white and gold, truly a queenly apartment, and one that well became the luxurious and dainty 160 Old Touraine and the Loire Country Mary, who came from Scotland to marry the youthful Frangois. Mary Stuart knew little at the time as to why they had so suddenly removed from Blois, but Frangois soon told her, something after this wise : ' ' Our mother, ' ' said he, ' ' is deeply concerned with affairs of state. There is some conspiracy against her and your uncles, the Guises." ' ' Tell me, ' ' she demanded, * ' concerning this dreadful conspiracy." <' Were you not suspicious," he asked, quer- ulously, '^ when we left for Amboise so sud- denly? " " Ah, non, mon Frangois, methought that we came here to hold a jousting tourney and to hunt in the forest. ..." '' Well, at any rate, we are secure here from Turk, or Jew, or Huguenot, my queen," re- plied the king. Within a short space a council was called in the great hall of Amboise, which the Huguenot chiefs, Conde, Coligny, the Cardinal de Cha- tillon, — who appears to have been a sort of a religious renegade, — were requested to attend. A conciliatory edict was to be prepared, and signed by the king, as a measure for gaining Amboise 161 time and learning further the plans of the con- spirators. This edict ultimately was signed, but it was in force but a short time and was a subterfuge which the youthful king deep in his heart — and he publicly avowed the fact — deeply re- sented. Furthermore it did practically noth- ing toward quelling the conspiracy. Through the plains of Touraine and over the hills from Anjou the conspirators came in straggling bands, to rendezvous for a great coup de main at Amboise. They halted at farms and hid in vineyards, but the royalists were on the watch and one after another the wandering bands were captured and held for a bloody public massacre when the time should become ripe. In all, two thousand or more were captured, including Jean Barri de la Renaudie. This man was the leader, but he was merely a bold adventurer, seeking his own advantage, and caring little what cause em- ployed his peculiar talents. This was his last affair, however, for his corpse soon hung in chains from Amboise 's bridge. Conde, Coli- gny, and the other Calvinists soon learned that the edict was not worth the paper on which it was written. After the two thousand had been dispersed 162 Old Touraine and the Loire Country or captured tke * * queen-mother ' ' threw off the mask. She led the trembling child-king and queen toward the southern terrace, where, close beneath the windows of the chateau, was built a scaffold, covered with black cloth, be- fore which stood the executioner clothed in scarlet. The prisoners were ranged by hun- dreds along the outer rampart, guarded by archers and musketeers. The windows of the royal apartment were open and here the com- pany placed themselves to witness the butchery to follow. Speechless with horror sat the young king and queen, until finally, as another batch of mutilated corpses were thrown into the river below, the young queen swooned. '' My mother," said Frangois, '^ I, too, am overcome by this horrible sight. I crave your Highness 's permission to retire; the blood of my subjects, even of my enemies, is too hor- rible to contemplate." '' My son," said the bloodthirsty Catherine, *' I command you to stay. Due de Guise, sup- port your niece, the Queen of France. Teach her her duty as a sovereign. She must learn how to govern those hardy Scots of hers." It was on the very terraced platform on which one walks to-day that, between two ranks Amboise 163 of hallebardiers and arquebusiers, moved that long line of bareheaded and bowed men whose prayers went up to heaven while they awaited the fate of the gallows. Either the cord or the sword-blade quickly accounted for the lives of this multitude, and their blood flowed in rivulets, while above in the gallery the willing and unwilling onlookers were gay with laughter or dumb with sadness. When all this horrible murdering was over the Loire was literally a reeking mass of corpses, if we are to believe the records of the time. The chief conspirators were hung in chains from the castle walls, or from the bridge, and the balustrades which overhang the street, which to-day flanks the Loire be- neath the castle walls, were filled with a ribald crew of jeering partisans who knew little and cared less for religion of any sort. Some days after the execution of the Calvin- ists the ** Protestant poet " and historian passed through the royal city with his pre- cepteur and his father, and was shown the rows of heads planted upon pikes, which decorated the castle walls, and thereupon vowed, if not to avenge, at least to perpetuate the infamy in prose and verse, and this he did most effec- tually. 164 Old Touraine and the Loire Country An odorous garden of roses, lilacs, honey- suckle, and hawthorn framed the joyous archi- tecture of the chateau, then as now, in ador- able fashion; but it could not purify the mal- odorous reputation which it had received until the domain was ceded by Louis XIV. to the Due de Penthievre and made a duche-pairie. It would be possible to say much more, but this should suffice to stamp indelibly the fact that Touraine, in general, and the chateau of Amboise, in particular, cradled as much of the thought and action of the monarchy in the fif- teenth and sixteenth centuries as did the capi- tal itself. At any rate the memory of it all is so vivid, and the tangible monuments of the splendour and intrigue of the court of those days are so very numerous and magnificent, that one could not forget the parts they played — once having seen them — if he would. After the assassination of the Due de Guise at Blois, Amboise became a prison of state, where were confined the Cardinal de Bourbon and Cesar de Vendome (the sons of Henri IV. and Gabrielle d'Estrees), also Fouquet and Lauzun. In 1762 the chateau was given by Louis XV. to the Due de Choiseul, and the great Napoleon turned it over to his ancient col- league, Roger Ducos, who apparently cared Co -Si -Si I' Amboise 165 little for its beauties or associations, for he mutilated it outrageously. In later times the history of the chateau and its dependencies has been more prosaic. The Emir Abd-el-Kader was imprisoned here in 1852, and Louis Napoleon stayed for a time within its walls upon his return from the south. To-day it belongs to the family of Or- leans, to whom it was given by the National Assembly in 1872, and has become a house of retreat for military veterans. This is due to the generosity of the Due d'Aumale into whose hands it has since passed. The restoration which has been carried on has made of Am- boise an ideal reproduction of what it once was, and in every way it is one of the most splendid and famous chateaux of its kind, though by no means as lovable as the residential chateaux of Chenonceaux or Langeais. The Chapelle de St. Hubert, which was re- stored by Louis Philippe, is the chief artistic attraction of Amboise; a bijou of full-blown G^othic. It is a veritable architectural joy of the period of Charles VIIL, to whom its erec- tion was due. Its portal has an adorable bas- relief, representing ** La Chasse de St. Hu- bert," and showing St. Hubert, St. Christo- pher, and St. Anthony, while above, in the tym- 166 Old Touraine and the Loire Country panum, are effigies of the Virgin, of Charles VIII., and of Anne de Bretagne. The sculp- ture is, however, comparatively modern, but it embellishes a shrine worthy in every way, for there repose the bones of Leonardo da Vinci. Formerly Da Vinci 's remains had rested in the chapel of the chateau itself, dedicated to St. Florentin. Often the Chapelle de St. Hubert has been confounded with that described by Scott in " Quentin Durward," but it is manifestly not the same, as that was located in Tours or near there, and his very words describe the archi- tecture as "of the rudest and meanest kind," which this is not. Over the arched doorway of the chapel at Tours there was, however, a *' statue of St. Hubert with a bugle-horn around his neck and a leash of greyhounds at his feet," which may have been an early sug- gestion of the later work which was under- taken at Amboise. All vocations came to have their protecting saints in the middle ages, and, since " la chasse " was the great recreation of so many, distinction was bestowed upon Hubert as being one of the most devout. The legend is suffi- ciently familiar not to need recounting here, and, anyway, the story is plainly told in this Amboise 167 sculptured panel over the portal of the chapel at Amboise. In this Chapel of St. Hubert was formerly held ^' that which was called a hunting-mass. The office was only used before the noble and powerful, who, while assisting at the solemnity, were usually impatient to commence their favourite sport." The ancient Salle des Gardes of the chateau, with the windows giving on the balcony over- looking the river, became later the Logis du Eoi. From this great chamber one passes on to the terrace near the foot of the Grosse Tour, called the Tour des Minimes. It is this tower which contains the '' escalier des voitures." The entrance is through an elegant portico leading to the upper stories. Above another portico, leading from the terrace to the garden, is to be seen the emblem of Louis XII., the por- cupine, so common at Blois. In the fosse, which still remains on the gar- den side, was the universally installed jeu-de- paume, a favourite amusement throughout the courts of Europe in the middle ages. At the base of the chateau are clustered nu- merous old houses of the sixteenth century, but on the river-front these have been replaced 168 Old Touraine and the Loire Country with pretentious houses, cafes, automobile ' ga- rages, and other modern buildings. Near the Quai des Violettes are a series of subterranean chambers known as the Greniers de Cesar, dating from the sixteenth century. Even at this late day one can almost picture the great characters in the drama of other Cipher of Anne de Bretagne, Hotel de Ville, Amboise times who stalked majestically through the apartments, and over the very flagstones of the courts and terraces which one treads to-day; Catherine de Medici with her ruffs and velvets ; Henri de Guise with all his wiles; Conde the proud ; the second Francois, youthful but wise ; his girl queen, loving and sad; and myriads more of all ranks and of all shades of morality, — all resplendent in the velvets and gold of the costume of their time. Amboise 169 Near the chateau is the Clos Luce, a Gothic habitation in whose oratory died Leonardo da Vinci, on May 2, 1519. Immediately back of the chateau is the Foret d 'Amboise, the scene of many gay hunting parties when the court was here or at Chenon- ceaux, which one reaches by traversing the forest route. On the edge of this forest is Chanteloup, remembered by most folk on ac- count of its atrocious Chinese-like pagoda, built of the debris of the Chateau de la Bour- daisiere, by the Due de Choiseul, in memory of the attentions he received from the nobles and bourgeois of the ville upon the fall of his ministry and his disgrace at the hands of Louis XV. and La Du Barry. It is a curious form to be chosen when one had such beauti- ful examples of architectural art near by, only equalled, perhaps, in atrociousness by the *' Royal Pavilion " of England's George IV. La Bourdaisiere, near Amboise, of which only the site remains, if not one of the chief tourist attractions of the chateau country, has at least a sentimental interest of abounding importance for all who recall the details of the life of La Belle Gabrielle." Here in Touraine Gabrielle d'Estrees was born in 1565. She was twenty-six years old 170 Old Touraine and the Loire Country when Henri IV. first saw her in the chateau of her father at Coeuvres. So charmed was he with her graces that he made her his maitresse forthwith, though the old court-life chronicles of the day state that she already possessed something more than the admiration of Sebas- tian Zamet, the celebrated financier. CHAPTER VIII. CHENONCEAUX " The castle of Chenonceaux is a fine place on the river Cher, in a fine and pleasant country." Francois Premier. " The castle of Chenonceaux is one of the best and most beautiful of our kingdom." Henri II. The average visitor will come prepared to worship and admire a chateau so praised by two luxury-loving Kings of France. Chenonceaux is noted chiefly for its chateau, but the little village itself is charming. The houses of the village are not very new, nor very old, but the one long street is most at- tractive throughout its length, and the whole atmosphere of the place, from September to December, is odorous with the perfume of red- purple grapes. The vintage is not the equal of that of the Bordeaux region, perhaps, nor of Chinon, nor Saumur; but the vin du pays of the Cher and the Loire, around Tours, is not to be despised. 171 172 Old Touraine and the Loire Country Most tourists come to Chenonceaux by train from Tours; others drive over from Amboise, and yet others come by bicycle or automobile. They are not as yet so numerous as might be expected, and accordingly here, as elsewhere in Touraine, every facility is given for visiting the chateau and its park. If you do not hurry off at once to worship at the abode of the fascinating Diane, one of the brightest ornaments of the court of Fran- Qois Premier and his son Henri, you will enjoy your dinner at the Hotel du Bon Laboureur, though most likely it will be a solitary one, and you will be put to bed in a great chamber over- looking the park, through which peep, in the moonlight, the turrets of the chateau, and you may hear the purling of the waters of the Cher as it flows below the walls. Jean Jacques Eousseau, like Francois I., called Chenonceaux a beautiful place, and he was right; it is all of that and more. Here one comes into direct contact with an atmos- phere which, if not feudal, or even mediae- val, is at least that of several hundred years ago. Chenonceaux is moored like a ship in the middle of the rapidly running Cher, a dozen miles or more above where that stream enters Chenonceaux l'^3 the Loire. As a matter of fact, the chateau practically bridges the river, which flows under its foundations and beneath its drawbridge on either side, besides filling the moat with water. The general effect is as if the building were set in the midst of the stream and formed a sort of island chateau. Round about is a gen- tle meadow and a great park, which give to this turreted architectural gem of Touraine a setting which is equalled by no other cha- teau. What the chateau was in former days we can readily imagine, for nothing is changed as to the general disposition. Boats came to the water-gate, as they still might do if such boats still existed, in true, pictorial legendary fashion. To-day, the present occupant has placed a curiosity on the ornamental waters in the shape of a gondola. It is out of keeping with the grand fabric of the chateau, and it is a pity that it does not cast itself adrift some night. What has become of the gondolier, who was imported to keep the craft company, no- body seems to know. He is certainly not in evidence, or, if he is, has transformed himself into a groom or a chauffeur. The Chateau of Chenonceaux is not a very ample structure; not so ample as most photo- 174 Old Touraine and the Loire Country graphs would make it appear. It is not tiny, but still it has not the magnificent proportions of Blois, of Chambord, or even of Langeais. It was more a habitation than it was a for- tress, a maison de campagne, as indeed it vir- tually became when the Connetable de Mont- morency took possession of the structure in the name of the king, when its builder, Thomas Bohier, the none too astute minister of finances in Normandy, came to grief in his affairs. Frangois I. came frequently here for " la chasse/' and his memory is still kept alive by the Chambre Frangois Premier. Frangois held possession till his death, when his son made it over to the '' admired of two generations," Diane de Poitiers. Diane's memory will never leave Chenon- ceaux. To-day it is perpetuated in the Chambre de Diane de Poitiers; but the portrait by Leonardo da Vinci, which was supposed to best show her charms, has now disappeared from the '* long gallery " at the chateau. This por- trait was painted at the command of Frangois, before Diane transferred her affections to his son. No one knows when or how Diane de Poitiers first came to fascinate Frangois, or how or why her power waned. At any rate, at the Chenonceaux 175 time FranQois pardoned her father, the witless Comte de St. Vallier, for the treacherous part he played in the Bourbon conspiracy, he really believed her to be the " brightest ornament of a beauty-loving court." Certainly, Diane was a powerful factor in the politics of her time, though Fran§ois himself soon tired of her. Undaunted by this, she forthwith set her cap for his son Henri, the Due d 'Orleans, and won him, too. Of her beauty the present generation is able to judge for itself by reason of the three well- known and excellent portraits of contemporary times. Diane's influence over the young Henri was absolute. At his death her power was, of course, at an end, and Chenonceaux, and all else possible, was taken from her by the orders of Catherine, the long - suffering wife, who had been put aside for the fascinations of the charming huntress. It must have been some satisfaction, how- ever, to Diane, to know that, in his fatal joust with Montgomery, Henri really broke his lance and met his death in her honour, for the records tell that he bore her colours on his lance, be- sides her initials set in gold and gems on his shield. 176 Old Touraine and the Loire Country Catherine's eagerness to drive Diane from the court was so great, that no sooner had her spouse fallen — even though he did not actually die for some days — than she sent word to Diane, '' who sat weeping alone," to instantly quit the court; to give up the crown jewels — which Henri had somewhat inconsiderately given her; and to '^ give up Chenonceaux in Touraine," Catherine's Naboth's vineyard, which she had so long admired and coveted. She had known it as a girl, when she often visited it in company with her father-in-law, the appreciative but dissolute Frangois, and had ever longed to possess it for her own, before even her husband, now dead, had given it to ' ' that old hag Diane de Poitiers, Duchesse de Valentinois. " Diane paid no heed to Catherine's com- mand. She simply asked: *' Is the king yet dead? " ''No, madame," said the messenger, "but his wound is mortal; he cannot live the day." ' ' Tell the queen, then, ' ' replied Diane, ' ' that her reign is not yet come; that I am mistress still over her and the kingdom as long as the king breathes the breath of life." Henri was more or less an equivocal char- acter, devoted to Diane, and likewise fond — Chenonceaux 177 one says it with caution — of Ms wife. He caused to be fashioned a monogram (seen at Chenonceaux) after this wise: supposedly indicating his attachment for Diane and his wife alike. The various initials of the cipher are in no way involved. Diane returned the compliment by decorating an apartment for the king, at her Chateau of Anet, with the black and white of the Medici arms. The Chateau of Chenonceaux, so greatly cov- eted by Catherine when she first came to France, and when it was in the possession of Diane, still remains in all the regal splendour of its past. It lies in the lovely valley of the Cher, far from the rush and turmoil of cities and even the continuous traffic of great thor- oughfares, for it is on the road to nowhere unless one is journeying cross-country from the lower to the upper Loire. This very iso- lation resulted in its being one of the few monu- ments spared from the furies of the Revolution, and, ' ' half-palace and half-chateau, ' ' it glistens 178 Old Touraine and the Loire Country with the purity of its former glory, as pictur- esque as ever, with turrets, spires, and roof- tops all mellowed with the ages in a most en- trancing manner. Even to-day one enters the precincts of the chateau proper over a drawbridge which spans an arm of the Loire, or rather, a moat which leads directly from the parent stream. On the opposite side are the bridge piers supporting five arches, the work of Diane when she was the fair chatelaine of the domain. This in- genious thought proved to be a most useful and artistic addition to the chateau. It formed a flagged promenade, lovely in itself, and led to the southern bank of the Cher, whence one got charming vistas of the turrets and roof- tops of the chateau through the trees and the leafy avenues which converged upon the struc- ture. When Catherine came she did not disdain to make the best use of Diane's innovation that suggested itself to her, which was simply to build the " Long Gallery " over the arches of this lovely bridge, and so make of it a veritable house over the water. A covering was made quite as beautiful as the rest of the structure, and thus the bridge formed a spacious wing of two stories. The first floor — known as the •aAfeivi^i.;- ;'._ ,:..^«&;&S!iifflS 178 Old Touraine and the Loire Country with the purity of its former glory, as pictur- esque as ever, with turrets, spires, and roof- tops all mellowed with the ages in a most en- trancing manner. Even to-day one enters the precincts of the chateau proper over a drawbridge which spans an arm of the Loire, or rather, a moat which leads directly from the parent stream. On the opposite side are the bridge piers supporting five arches, the work of Diane when she was the fair chatelaine of the domain. This in- genious thought proved to be a most useful and artistic addi€hme^ M^^Mi^Bkhux^^ formed a flagged promenade, lovely in itself, and led to the southern bank of the Cher, whence one got charraing~-vistas of the turrets and roof- tops of tlie chateau through the trees and the leafy avenues which converged upon the struc- ture. When Catherine came she did not disdain to make the best use of Diane's innovation that suggested itself to her, which was simply to build the '' Long Gallery " over the arches of this lovely bridge, and so make of it a veritable house over the water. A covering was made (-iuite as beautiful as the rest of the structure, and thus the bridge formed a spacious wing of two stories. The first floor — known as the Chenonceaux 179 ' ' Long Gallery ' ' — was intended as a banquet- ing-hall, and possessed four great full-length windows on either side looking up and down stream, from which was seen — and is to-day — an outlook as magnificently idyllic as is pos- sible to conceive. Jean Goujon had designed for the ceiling one of those wonder-works for which he was famous, but if the complete plan was ever carried out, it has disappeared, for only a tiny sketch of the whole scheme remains to-day. 180 Old Touraine and the Loire Country Catherine came in the early summer to take possession of her long-coveted domain. Being a skilful horsewoman, she came on horseback, accompanied by a '^ petite hande " of feminine charmers destined to wheedle political secrets from friends and enemies alike, — a real " es- cadron volant de la reine," as it was called by a contemporary. It was a gallant company that assembled here at this time, — the young King Charles IX., the Due de Guise, and '' two cardinals mounted on mules," — Lorraine, a true Guise, and D'Este, newly arrived from Italy, and accom- panied by the poet Tasso, wearing a '' gabar- dine and a hood of satin." Catherine showed the Italian great favour, as was due a country- man, but there was another poet among them as well, Eonsard, the poet laureate of the time. The Due de Guise had followed in the wake of Marguerite, unbeknownst to Catherine, who frowned down any possibility of an alliance between the houses of Valois and Lorraine. A great fete and water-masque had been arranged by Catherine to take place on the Cher, with a banquet to follow in the Long Gallery in honour of her arrival at Chenon- ceaux. When twilight had fallen, torches were ig- Chenonceaux 181 nited and myriads of lights blazed forth from the boats on the river and from the windows of the chateau. Music and song went forth into the night, and all was as gay and lovely as a Venetian night's entertainment. The hunting-horns echoed through the wooded banks, and through the arches above which the chateau was built passed great highly coloured barges, including a fleet of gondolas to remind the queen-mother of her Italian days, — the ancestors perhaps of the solitary gon- dola which to-day floats idly by the river-bank just before the grand entrance to the chateau. From parterre and balustrade, and from the clipped yews of the ornamental garden, fairy lamps burned forth and dwindled away into dim infinity, as the long lines of soft light grad- ually lost themselves in the forest. It was a grand affair and idyllic in its unworldliness. One may not see its like to-day, for electric lights and " rag-time " music, which mostly comprise the attractions of such al fresco pleas- ures, will hardly produce the same effect. Among the great fetes at Chenonceaux will always be recalled that given by the court upon the coming of the youthful Frangois II. and Mary Stuart, after the horrible massacres at Amboise. 182 Old Touraine and the Loire Country All the Renaissance skill of the time was employed in the erection of pompous acces- sories, triumphal arches, columns, obelisks, and altars. There were innumerable tablets also, bearing inscriptions in Latin and Greek, — which nobody read, — and a fountain which bore the following: " Au saint bal des dryades, A Phoebus, ce grand dieu, Atix hnmides nyades, J'ai consacr6 ce lieu." Of Chenonceaux and its glories what more can be said than to quote the following lines of the middle ages, which in their quaint old French apply to-day as much as ever they did : " Basti si magnifiquement II est debout, comme un g^ant, Dedans le lit de la riviere, C'est-a-dire dessus un pont Qui porte cent toises de long." The part of the edifice which Bohier erected in 1515 is that through which the visitor makes his entrance, and is built upon the piers of an old mill which was destroyed at that time. Catherine bequeathed Chenonceaux to the wife of Henri III., Louise de Vaudemont, who died here in 1601. For a hundred years it still belonged to royalty, but in 1730 it was sold to Chenonceaux 183 M. Dupin, who, with his wife, enriched and repaired the fabric. They gathered around them a company so famous as to be memorable in the annals of art and literature. This is best shown by the citing of such names as Fon- tenelle, Montesquieu, Buffon, Bolingbroke, Vol- taire, and Rousseau, all of whom were frequent- ers of the establishment, the latter being charged with the education of the only son of M. and Madame Dupin. Considering Eousseau's once proud position among his contemporaries, and the favour with which he was received by the nobility, it is somewhat surprising that his struggle for life was so hard. The Marquise de Crequy wrote in her " Souvenirs: " " Eousseau left behind him his Memoires, which I think for the sake of his memory and fame ought to be much cur- tailed. ' ' And undoubtedly she was right. Rous- seau wrote in his " Confessions: " "In 1747 we went to spend the autumn in Touraine, at the Chateau of Chenonceaux, a royal residence upon the Cher, built by Henri II. for Diane de Poitiers, whose initials are still to be seen there. . . . We amused ourselves greatly in this fine spot; the living was of the best, and I became fat as a monk. We made a great deal of music and acted comedies." 184 Old Touraine and the Loire Country One might imagine, from a stroll through the magnificent halls and galleries of Chenonceaux, that Rousseau's experiences might be repeated to-day if one were fortunate enough to be asked to sojourn there for a time. The nearest that one can get, however, to becoming personally identified with the chateau and its life is to sign his name in the great vellum quarto which ulti- mately will rest in the archives of the chateau. It is doubtless very wrong to be covetous; but Chenonceaux is such a beautiful place and comes so near the ideal habitation of our imag- ination that the desire to possess it for one's own is but human. In the ' ' Galerie Louis XIV. ' ' were given the first representations of many of Eousseau's pieces. One gathers from these accounts of the hap- penings in the Long Gallery that it formed no bridge of sighs, and most certainly it did not. Its walls resounded almost continually with music and laughter. Here in these rooms Henri 11. danced and made love and intrigued, while Catherine, his queen, was left at Blois with her astrologer and his poisons, to eat out her soul in comparative neglect. Before the time of the dwelling built by Bohier for himself and family on the founda- Chenonceaux 185 tions of the old mill, there was yet a manor- house belonging to the ancient family of Marques, from whom the Norman financier bought the site. The tower, seen to-day at the right of the entrance to the chateau proper, — • an expressive relic of feudal times, — was a part of the earlier establishment. To-day it is turned into a sort of kiosque for the sale of photographs, post-cards, and an admirable illustrated guide to the chateau. The interior of the chateau to-day presents the following remarkable features : The dining- room of to-day, formerly the Salle des Gardes, has a ceiling in which the cipher of Catherine de Medici is interwoven with an arabesque. To the left of this apartment is the entrance to the chapel, which to-day seems a bit incongru- ously placed, leading as it does from the dining- room. It is but a tiny chapel, but it is as gay and brilliant as if it were still the adjunct of a luxury-loving court, and it has some glass dat- ing from 1521, which, if not remarkable for design or colouring, is quite choice enough to rank as an art treasure of real value. According to VioUet-le-Duc each feudal sei- gneur had attached to his chateau a chapel, often served by a private chaplain, and in some instances by an entire chapter of prelates. 186 Old Touraine and the Loire Country These chapels were not simple oratories sur- rounded by the domestic apartments, but were architectural monuments in themselves, and either entirely isolated, as at Amboise, or semi- detached, as at Chenonceaux. Below, in the sub-basement, at Chenonceaux, are the original foundations upon which Bohier laid his first stones. Here, too, are various chambers, known respectively as the prison, the Bains de la Reine, the boulangerie, etc. Chenonceaux to-day is no whited sepulchre. It is a real living and livable thing, and, more- over, when one visits it, he observes that the family burn great logs in their fireplaces, have luxurious bouquets of flowers on their dining- table, and use great wax candles instead of the more prosaic oil-lamps, or worse — acetylene gas. Chenonceaux evidently has no thoughts of descending to steam heat and electricity. All this is as it should be, for when one visits a shrine like this he prefers to find it with as much as possible of the old-time atmosphere remaining. Chambord is bare and suggestive of the tomb, in spite of the splendour of its outline and proportions; Pierrefonds, in the north, is more so, and so would be Blois except for its restored or imitation decorations; but here at Chenonceaux all is different, and Chenonceaux 187 breathes the spirit of other days as well as that of to-day. It is, perhaps, not exactly as Diane left it, or as Rousseau knew it under the regime of the Dupins, since, after many changings of hands, it became the property of -_ the Credit Fonder, by whom it was sold in 1891 to Mr. Terry, an American. Chenonceaux has two other architectural monuments which are often overlooked under the spell of the more magnificent chateau. In the village is a small Renaissance church — in which the Renaissance never rose to any very great heights — which is here far more effect- ive and beautiful than usually are Renaissance ___ahufches of any magnitude. There is also a sixteenth-century stone house in the same style and even more successful as an expression of the art of the time. It is readily found by inquiry, and is known as the '' Maison des Pages de FranQois I." CHAPTER IX. LOCHES Much may be written of Loclies, of its storied past, of its present-day quaintness, and of its wealth of architectural monuments. Its church is certainly the most curious religious edifice in all France, judging from a cross-section of the vaults and walls. More than all else, how- ever, Loches is associated in our minds with the memory of Agnes Sorel. Within the walls of the old collegiate church the lovely mistress of Charles VII. was buried in 1450; but later her remains and tomb were removed to one of the towers of the ancient castle of Loches, where they now are. She had amply endowed the church, but they would no longer give shelter to her remains, so her bones were removed five hundred years later. The statue which surmounts her tomb, as seen to- day, represents the '^ gentille Agnes " in all her loveliness, with folded hands on breast, a kneeling angel at her head and a couchant 188 Loches 189 lamb at her feet, — a reminder of her inno- cence, said Henry James, but surely he nodded when he said it. Lovely she was, and good in her way, but innocent she was not, as we have come to know the word. It is fitting to recall that Charles VII. was not the only monarch who sang her praises, for Loches it was Frangois I. who, many years later, wrote those lines beginning: " Gentille Agnes, plus de loz tu m^rites." Whether one comes to Loches by road or by rail, the first impression is the same ; he enters at once into a sleepy, old-world town which has practically nothing of modernity about it except the electric lights. 190 Old Touraine and the Loire Country There is but one way to realize the imniense wealth of architectural monuments centred at Loches, and .that is to see the city for the first time, as, perhaps, Frangois Premier saw it when he journeyed from Amboise, and came upon it from the heights of the forest of Loches. The city has not grown much since that day. Then it had three thousand eight hundred souls, and now it has five thousand. Here, in the Foret de Loches, Henry II. of England built a monastery, — yet to be seen, — known as the Chartreuse du Liget, in repent- ance, or, perhaps, as a penance for the murder of Becket. Over the doorway of this monastery was graven: ANGLORUM HENRICUS REX THOM^ CCEDE CRUENTUS, LIGETICOS FUNDAT CARTUSIA MONAKOS. To-day the monastery is the property of a M. de Marsay, and therefore not open to the public; but the Chapelle du Liget, near by, is a fine contemporary church of the thirteenth cen- tury, well worth the admiration too infre- quently bestowed upon it. The first view of Loches must really be much as it was in Francois's time, except, perhaps, that the roadway down from the forest has improved, as roads have all over France, and Loches 191 fruit-trees and vineyards planted out, whicli, however, in no way change the aspect when the town is first seen in the dim haze of an early November morning. It is the sky-line ensemble of the chateaux of the Eenaissance period which is their most varied feature. No two are alike, and yet they are all wonderfully similar in that they cut the sky with turret, tower, and chimney in a way which suggests nothing as much as the archi- tecture of fairy-land. The artists who illustrated the old fairy-tale books and drew castles wherein dwelt beautiful maidens could nowhere have found more real inspiration than among the chateaux of the Loire, the Cher, and the Indre. ^ Loches is a veritable mediaeval town, and it is even more than that, for its history dates back into the earliest years of feudal times. Loches is one of those soi-disant French towns not great enough to be a metropolis, and yet quite indifferent to the affairs of the outside world. The only false notes are those sounded by the various hawkers and cadgers for the visitor's money, who have hired various old mediaeval structures, within the walls, and assure one that in the basement of their establishment 192 Old Touraine and the Loire Country there are fragments " recently discovered," — this in English, — quite worth the price of ad- mission which they charge you to peer about in a gloomy hole of a cellar, littered with empty wine-bottles and rubbish of all sorts. All this is delightful enough to the simon- pure antiquarian; but even he likes to dig things out for himself, and the householders can't all expect to find cachots in their sub- cellars or iron cages in their garrets unless they manufacture them. The old town, in spite of its lack of modern- ity, is full of surprises and contrasts that must make it very livable to one who cares to spend a winter within its walls. He may walk about on the ramparts on sunny days ; may fish in the Indre, below the mill ; and, if he is an artist, he will find, within a comparatively small area, much more that is exceedingly '* paintable " than is usually found in the fishing-villages of Brittany or on the sand-dunes of the Pas de Calais, '^ artist's sketching-grounds " which have been pretty well worked of late. The history of Loches is so varied and vivid that it is easy to account for the many remains of feudal and Renaissance days now existing. The derivation of its name is in some doubt. Loches was unquestionably the Luccae of the Loches and Its Church Loches 193 Romans, but the Armorican Celts had the word loc'h, meaning much the same' thing, — un marais, — which is also wonderfully like the loch known to-day in the place-names of Scot- land and the lough of Ireland. Partisans may take their choice. In the fifth century a monastery was founded here by St. Ours, which ultimately gave its name to the collegiate church which exists to- day. A chateau, or more probably a fortress, appeared in the sixth century. The city was occupied by the Franks in the seventh century, but by 630 it had become united with Aquitaine. Pepin sacked it in 742, and Charles le Chauve made it a seat of a hereditary government which, by alliance, passed to the house of An- jou in 886, to whom it belonged up to 1205. Jean-sans-Terre gave it to France in 1193. Richard Cceur de Lion apparently resented this, for he retook it in the year following. In 1204, Philippe-Auguste besieged Chinon and Loches simultaneously, and took the latter after a year, when he made it a fief, and gave it to Dreux de Mello, Constable of France, who in turn sold it to St. Louis. The chateau of Loches became first a for- tress, guarding the ancient Roman highway from the Blaisois to Aquitaine, then a prison, 194 Old Touraine and the Loire Country and then a royal residence, to which. Charles VII. frequently repaired with Agnes Sorel, which calls up again the strangely contrasting influences of the two women whose names have gone down in history linked with that of Charles VII. '' Louis XI. aggrandized the chateau," says a French authority, " and perfected the pris- ons," whatever that may mean. He did, we know, build those terrible dungeons far down below the surface of the ground, where daylight never penetrated. They were perfect enough in all conscience as originally built, at least as perfect as the celebrated iron cage in which he imprisoned Cardinal Balue. The cage is not in its wonted place to-day, and only a ring in the wall indicates where it was once made fast. Charles VIII. added the great round tower; but it was not completed until the reign of Louis XII. FrauQois I., in a not too friendly meeting, received Charles Quint here in 1539, just previous to his visit to Amboise. Marie de Medici, on escaping from Blois, stopped at the chateau at the invitation of the governor, the Due d'Epernon, who sped her on her way, as joyfully as possible, to Angouleme. The chateau itself is the chief attraction of interest, just as it is the chief feature of the Loches 195 landscape when viewed from afar. Of course it is understood that, when one speaks of the chateau at Loches, he refers to the collective chateaux which, in more or less fragmentary form, go to make up the edifice as it is to-day. Whether we admire most the structure of Geoffroy Grise-Gonelle, the elegant edifice of the fifteenth century, or the additions of Charles VII., Louis XL, Charles VIIL, Louis XII., or Henri III., we must conclude that to know this conglomerate structure intimately one must actually live with it. Nowhere in France — perhaps in no country — is there a chateau that suggests so stupendously the story of its past. The chief and most remarkable features are undoubtedly the great rectangular keep or don- jon, and the Tour Neuf or Tour Eonde. The first, in its immensity, quite rivals the best examples of the kind elsewhere, if it does not actually excel them in dimensions. It is, more- over, according to De Caumont, the most beau- tiful of all the donjons of France. As a state prison it confined Jean, Due d'Alengon, Pierre de Breze, and Philippe de Savoie. The Tour Ronde is a great cylinder flanked with dependencies which give it a more or less irregular form. It encloses the prison where 196 Old Touraine and the Loire Country were formerly kept the famous cages, the in- vention of Cardinal Balue, who himself became their first victim. The Tour Eonde is reminis- cent of two great female figures in the medi- aeval portrait gallery, — Agnes Sorel and Anne de Bretagne. The tomb of Agnes Sorel is here, and the Duchesse Anne made an oratory in this grim tower, from which she sent up her prayer for the success and unity of the political plans which inspired her marriage into the royal family of France. It is a daintily decorated chamber, with the queen's family device, the ermine with its twisted necklet, prominently displayed. In the passage which conducts to the dun- geons of this great round tower, one reads this ironical invitation: " Entres, messieurs, ches le Roy Nostre Mestre " (O.F.). That portion of the collective chateaux fac- ing to the north is now occupied by the Sous- Prefecture, and is more after the manner of the residential chateaux of the Loire than of a fortress-stronghold or prison. Before this portion stands the famous chestnut-tree, planted, it is said, by Francois I., " and large enough to shelter the whole population of Loches beneath its foliage," says the same doubtful authority. Loches 197 Under a fifteenth-century structure, called the Martelet, are the true dungeons of Loches. Here one is shown the cell occupied for nine years by the poor Ludovic Sforza, who died in 1510, from the mere joy of being liberated. More deeply hidden still is the famous Prison des Elveques of the era of Francois I. and the dungeon of Comte de St. Vallier, the father of the fascinating Diane, who herself was the means of securing his liberation by " fascinat- ing the king," as one French writer puts it. This may be so. St. Vallier was liberated, we know, and the susceptible Frangois was fas- cinated, though he soon tired of Diane and her charms. She had the perspicacity, however, to transfer her affections to his son, and so kept up a sort of family relationship. Like the historic " prisoner of Gisors," the occupants of the dungeons at Loches whiled away their lonely hours by inscribing their sentiments upon the walls. Only one remains to-day, though fragmentary stone-carved let- ters and characters are to be seen here and there. He who wrote the following was cer- tainly as cheerful as circumstances would al- low: « Malgr6 les ennuis d'une longue sonfErance, Et le cruel destin dont je subis la loy, 198 Old Touraine and the Loire Country II est encort des biens pour moy, Le tendre amour et la douce esp^rance." Most of these formidable dungeons of Loches were prisons of state until well into the six- teenth century. Beneath, or rather beside, the very walls of the chateau is the bizarre collegiate church of St. Ours. One says bizarre, simply because it is curious, and not because it is unchurchly in any sense of the word, for it is not. Its low nave is surmounted by an enormous tower with a stone spire, while there are two other pyram- idal erections over the roof of the choir which make the whole look, not like an elephant, as a cynical Frenchman once wrote, but rather St. Ours, Loches Loches 199 like a camel with two humps. This strange architectural anomaly is, in parts, almost pagan; certainly its font, a fragment of an ancient altar on which once burned a sacred fire, is pagan. There is a Romanesque porch of vast dimen- sions which is the real artistic expression of the fabric, dressed with extraordinary primitive sculptures of saints, demons, stryges, gnomes, and all manner of outre things. All these de- tails, however, are chiselled with a masterly conception. Behind this exterior vestibule the first bays of the nave form another, a sort of an inner vestibule, which carries out still further the unique arrangement of the whole edifice. This portion of the structure dates from a consecra- tion of the year 965, which therefore classes it as of very early date, — indeed, few are earlier. Most of the church, however, is of the twelfth century, including another great pyramid which rises above the nave and the two smaller ones just behind the spire. The side-aisles of the nave were added between the twelfth and fif- teenth centuries, while only the stalls and the tabernacle are as recent as the sixteenth. The eastern end is triapsed, an unusual feature in France. From this one realizes, quite to the 200 Old Touraine and the Loire Country fullest extent possible, the antiquity and in- dividuality of the Eglise de St. Ours at Loches. The quaint Kenaissance H6tel-de-Ville was built by the architect Jean Beaudoin (1535- 1543), from sums raised, under letters patent from Frangois I., by certain octroi taxes. From the fact that through its lower story passes one of the old city entrances, it has come to be known also as the Porte Picoys. In every way it is a worthy example of Kenaissance civic architecture. In the Eue de Chateau is a remarkable Eenaissance house, known as the Chancellerie, which dates from the reign of Henri II. It has most curious sculptures on its fagade inter- spersed with the devices of royalty and the in- scription : IVSTITIA REGNO, PEUDENTIA NUTRISCO. The Tour St. Antoine serves to-day as the city's belfry. It is all that remains of a church, demolished long since, which was built in 1519- 30, in imitation of St. Gatien's of Tours. Doubtless it was base in many of its details, as is its more famous compeer at Tours ; but, if the old tower which remains is any indication, it must have been an elaborate and imposing work of the late Grothic and early Eenaissance era. Loches 201 As a literary note, lovers of Dumas 's ro- mances will be interested in the fact that in the Hotel de la Couroirie at Loches a body of Prot- estants captured the celebrated Chicot, the jester of Henri III. and Henri IV. Loches has a near neighbour in Beaulieu, which formerly possessed an ardent hatred for its more progressive and successful contempo- rary, Loches. Its very name has been per- verted by local historians as coming from Belli- locus, '' the place of war," and not " le lieu d'un hel aspect." The abbey church at Beaulieu was built by the warlike Foulques Nerra (in 1008-12), who usually built fortresses and left church-build- ing to monks and bishops. It is a remarkable Romanesque example, though, since the fif- teenth century, it has been mostly in ruins. Foulques Nerra himself, whose countenance had '' la majeste de celui d'un ange/' found his last resting-place within its walls, which also sheltered much rich ornament, to-day greatly defaced, though that of the nave, which is still intact, is an evidence of its former worth. The abbatial residence, still existent, has a curious exterior pulpit built into the wall, ex- amples of which are not too frequent in France. Agnes Sorel, the belle of belles, lived here for 202 Old Touraine and the Loire Country a time in a house near the Porte de Guigne, which bears a great stone panonceau, from which the armorial bearings have to-day dis- appeared. It is another notable monument to " the most graceful woman of her times," and without doubt has as much historic value as many another more popular shrine of history. In connection with Agnes Sorel, who was so closely identified with Loches and Beaulieu, it is to be recalled that she was known to the chroniclers of her time as '' la dame de Beaute- sur-Marne/' — a place which does not appear in the books of the modern geographers. It may be noted, too, that it was the encouragement of the '' belle des belles " of Charles VII. that, in a way, contributed to that monarch's success in politics and arms, for her sway only began with Jeanne d 'Arc's supplication at Gien and Chinon. Tradition has it, indeed, that it was the '^ gentille Agnes " who put the sword of victory in his hands when he set out on his campaign of reconquest. Thus does the Jeanne d 'Arc legend receive a damaging blow. The chateau of Sausac, an elegant edifice of the sixteenth century, completely restored in later days, is near by. s o ^ CHAPTEE X. TOUES AND ABOUT THEKE TouEs, above all other of the ancient capitals of the French provinces, remains to-day a ville de luxe, the elegant capital of a land balmy and delicious ; a land of which Dante sung : « Terra molle, e dolce e dilettosa. ..." It is not a very grand town as the secondary cities of France go; not like Eouen or Lyons, Bordeaux or Marseilles; but it is as typical a reflection of the surrounding country as any, and therein lies its charm. One never comes within the influence of its luxurious, or, at least, easy and comfortable appointments, its distinctly modern and up-to- date railway station, its truly magnificent mod- ern Hotel de Ville, its well-appointed hotels and cafes and its luxurious shops, but that he realizes all this to a far greater extent than in any other city of France. And again, referring to the material things 203 204 Old Touraine and the Loire Country of life, everything is most comfortable, and the restaurants and hotels most attractive in their fare. Tours is truly one provincial capital where the cuisine hourgeoise still lives. Touraine, and Tours in particular, besides many other things, is noted for its hotels. Their praises have been sung often and loudly, not forgetting Henry James's praise of the Hotel de I'Univers, which is all one expects to find it and more. The same may be said of the Hotel du Croissant, with the added opinion that it serves the most bountiful and excellent de- jeuner to be had in all provincial France. It is difficult to say just what actually causes all this excellence and abundance, except that the catering there is an easy and pleasurable oc- cupation. The Eue Nationale — '' toujours et vraiment royale " — is the great artery of Tours run- ning riverwards. On it circulates all the life of the city. To the right is the Quartier de la Cathedrale, where are assembled the great houses of the nobility — or such of them as are left — and of the old bourgeoisie tourangelle. To the left are the streets of the workers, a silk-mill or two, and the printing-offices. Tours is and always has been celebrated for the num- Tours and About There 205 ber and size of its imprimeries, witli which, in olden times, the name of the great Christopher Plantin, the master printer of Antwerp, was connected. To-day, Tours 's greatest establish- ment is that of Alfred Mame et Fils, known throughout the Eoman Catholic world. The printers and booksellers of the middle ages were favoured persons, and their rank was high. In the days of solemn processions the booksellers led the way, followed by the paper - makers, the parchment - makers, the scribes, — who had not wholly died out, — the binders and the illuminators. In these days the printers were granted an emblazoned arms, which was characteristic and distinguished. The same was true of the avocats, who bore upon their escutcheon a gowned figure, with something very like a halo surrounding its head. The innkeepers went one better, and had a bishop with an undeniable halo. This is 206 Old Touraine and the Loire Country curious and inexplicable in the light of our modern conception of similar things, but it's better than a shield with quarter ings represent- ing half a canal-boat and half a locomotive, which was recently adopted by an enterprising watering-place which shall be nameless. In the same ancient quarter are the old towers of Charlemagne and St. Martin. This part of the town is the nucleus of the old foun- dation, the site of the oppidum of the Turones, the CcBsarodunum gallo-romain, and of the life which centred around the old abbey of St. Martin, so venerated and so powerful in the middle ages. To the inviolable refuge of this old abbey came multitudes of Christian pilgrims from the world over; the Merovingians to undergo the penances imposed upon them by the bish- ops and clerics in expiation of their crimes. Under Charlemagne, the Abbe Alcuin founded great schools of languages, history, astronomy, and music, from which founts of learning went forth innumerable and illustrious religious teachers. All but the two towers of this old religious foundation are gone. The years of the Eevolu- tion saw the fall of the abbey ; a street was cut through the nave of its church, and the two Tours and About There 207 dismembered parts stand to-day as monuments to tlie sacrilege of modern times. To-day a banal faubourg has sprung up around the site of the abbey, with here and there old tumble-down houses either of wood and stone, such as one reads of in the pages of Bg,lzac, or sees in the designs of Dore, or with their sides covered with overlapping slates. Amid all these is an occasional treasure of architectural art, such as the graceful Fountain of Beaune, the work of Michel Colombe, and some remains of early Renaissance houses of somewhat more splendid appointments than their fellows, particularly the Maison de Tris- tan I'Hermite, the Hotel Xaincoings, and many exquisite fragments now made over into an auberge or a cabaret, which make one dream of Rabelais and his Gargantua. It is uncertain whether Michel Colombe, who designed this fountain and also that master- work, the tomb of the Due Frangois II. and Marguerite de Foix, at Nantes, was a Touran- geau or a Breton, but Tours claims him for her own, and settles once for all the spelling of his name by producing a '^ papier des affaires " signed plainly '' Colombe." The proof lies in this document, signed in a notary's office at Tours, concerning payments which were made 208 Old Touraine and the Loire Country to him on behalf of the magnificent sepulchre which he executed for the church of St. Sauveur at La Eochelle. In his time — fifteenth century — Colombe had no rivals in the art of mon- umental sculpture in France, and with reason he has been called the Michel Ange of France. The cathedral quarter has for its chief attrac- tion that gorgeously florid St. Gatien, whose ornate f agade was likened by a certain monarch to a magnificently bejewelled casket. It is an interesting and lovable Gothic-Eenaissance church which, if not quite of the first rank among the masterpieces of its kind, is a marvel of splendour, and an example of the " caprices d'une guipure d'art," as the French call it. Bordering the Loire at Tours is a series of tree-lined quays and promenades which are the scenes, throughout the spring and summer months, of fetes and fairs of many sorts. Here, too, at the extremity of the Eue Nationale, are statues of Descartes and Balzac. The Tour de Guise on the river-bank recalls the domination of the Plantagenet kings of England, who were Counts of Anjou since it formed a part of the twelfth-century chateau built here by Henry 11. of England. At the opposite extremity of the city is an- other tower, the Tour de Foubert, which pro- suikKi:" ■".r-'''"s?;sB®JStes%;«* irao \ ,M^'^V,5sA\oJ o'^ sb "^3> •«ia 208 Old Touraine and the Loire Country to him on behalf of the magnificent sepulnir,- which he executed for the church of St. Sauveu ; at La Eochelle. In his time — fifteenth centur — Colombe had no rivals in the art of mon umental sculpture in France, and with reasofi he has been called the Michel Ange of France. The cathedral quarter has for its chief attrac- tion that gorgeously florid St. Gatien, whose ornate f agade was likened by a certain monarch to a magnificently bejewelled casket. It is an interesting and lovable Gothic-Renaissance church which, if not quite of the first rank amoi3§cl^ m^^mm <^ ^^^M^,WM^^ of splendour, and an example of the ' ' caprices d'une guipure d'art/' as the French call it. Bordering the Loire at Tours is a series of tree-lined quays and promenades which are the scenes, throughout the spring and summer months, of fetes and fairs of many sorts. Here, too, at the extremity of the Rue Nationale, are statues of Descartes and Balzac. The Tour de Guise on the river-bank recalls the. domination of the Plantagenet kings of England, who were Counts of Anjou since it formed a part of the twelfth-century chateau built here by Henry II. of England. At the opposite extremity of the city is an- other tower, the Tour de Foubert, which pro- Tours and About There 209 tected the feudal domain of the old abbey of St. Martin. The history of days gone by at Tours was more churchly than political. Once only — during the reign of Louis XII. — did the States General meet at Tours (in 1506). Then the deputies of the bourgeoisie met alone for their deliberations, the chief out- come of which was to bestow upon the king the eminently fitting title of " Pere du Peuple." One may question the righteousness of Louis XII. in throwing over his wife, Jeanne de France, in order to serve political ends by ac- quiring the estates of Anne of Brittany for the Crown of France for ever, but there is no doubt but that he did it for the '^ good of his people." The principal literary shrine at Tours is the house, in the Eue Nationale, where was born Honor e de Balzac. One could not do better than to visit Tours during the '' ete de St. Martin," since it was the soldier-priest of Tours who gave his name to that warm, bright prolongation of summer which in France (and in England) is known as '' St. Martin's summer," and which finds its counterpart in America's " Indian summer." The legend tells us that somewhere in the dark ages lived a soldier named Martin. He was always of a charitable disposition, and 210 Old Touraine and the Loire Country none asked alms of him in vain. One November day, when the wind blew briskly and the snow fell fast, a beggar asked for food and clothing. Martin had but his own cloak, and this he forth- with tore in half and gave one portion to the beggar. Later on the same night there came a knocking at Martin's door; the snow had ceased falling and the stars shone brightly, and one of goodly presence stood with the cloak on his arm, saying, " I was naked and ye clothed me." Martin straightway became a priest of the church, and died an honoured bishop of Tours, and for ever after the anni- versary of his conversion is celebrated by sunny skies. We owe a double debt to St. Martin. We have to thank him for the saying, " All my eye " and the words ^' chapel " and " chap- lain." The full form of the phrase, '' All my eye and Betty Martin," which we all of us have often heard, is an obvious corruption of '^ mihi beate Martine," the beginning of an invo- cation to the saint. The cloak he divided with a naked beggar, which, by the way, took place at Amiens, not at Tours, was treasured as a relic by the Frankish kings, borne before them in battle, and brought forth when solemn oaths were to be taken. The guardians of this cloak Tours and About There 211 or cape were known as " cappellani," whence '^ chaplain," while its sanctuary or " cap- pella " has become " chapel." For their descriptions of Plessis-les-Tours modern English travellers have invariably turned to the pages of Sir Walter Scott. This is all very well in its way, but it is also well to remember that Scott drew his picture from definite information, and it is not merely the product of his imaginary architectural skill. In this respect Scott was certainly far ahead of Carlyle in his estimates of French matters. '' Even in those days " (writing of " Quen- tin Durward "), said Scott, '' when the great found themselves obliged to reside in places of fortified strength, it " (Plessis - les - Tours) *' was distinguished for the extreme and jealous care with which it was watched and defended. ' ' All this is substantiated and corroborated by authorities, and, while it may have been chosen by Scott merely as a suitable accessory for the details of his story, Plessis-les-Tours unques- tionably was a royal stronghold of such pro- portions as to be but meanly suggested by the scanty remains of the present day. Louis XI, dreamed fondly of Plessis-les- Tours (Plessis being from the Latin Plexitium, a name borne by many suburban villages of 212 Old Touraine and the Loire Country France), and he sought to make it a royal resi- dence where he should be safe from every out- ward harm. It had four great towers, crenel- ated and machicolated, after the best Gothic fortresses of the time. At the four angles of the protecting walls were the principal logis, and between the lines of its ramparts or fosses was an advance-guard of buildings presumably intended for the vassals in time of danger. This was the castle as Louis first knew it, when it was the property of the chamberlain of the Duchy of Luynes, from whom the king bought it for five thousand and five hundred ecus d'or, — the value of fifty thousand francs of to-day. Its former appellation, Montilz-les-Tours, was changed (1463) to Plessis. All the chief features have disappeared, and to-day it is but a scrappy collection of tumble-down buildings devoted to all manner of purposes. A few fragmentary low-roofed vaults are left, and a brick and stone building, flanked by an octag- onal tower, containing a stairway; but this is about all of the former edifice, which, if not as splendid as some other royal residences, was quite as effectively defended and as suitable to its purposes as any. It had, too, within its walls a tiny chapel Tours and About There 213 214 Old Touraine and the Loire Country dedicated to Our Lady of Clery, before whose altar the superstitious Louis made his incon- stant devotions. Once a great forest surrounded the chateau, and was, as Scott says, '' rendered dangerous and well-nigh impracticable by snares and traps armed with scythe-blades, which shred off the unwary traveller's limbs . . . and cal- throps that would pierce your foot through, and pitfalls deep enough to bury you in them for ever." To-day the forest has disappeared, '' lost in the night of time," as a French his- torian has it. The detailed description in '^ Quentin Dur- ward " is, however, as good as any, and, if one has no reference works in French by him, he may well read the dozen or more pages which Sir Walter devotes to the further description of the castle. Perhaps, after all, it is fitting that a Scot should have written so enthusiastically of it, for the castle itself was guarded by the Scot- tish archers, " to the number of three hundred gentlemen of the best blood of Scotland." An anonymous poet has written of the an- cient glory of this retreat of Louis's as fol- lows : Tours and About There 215 " Un imposant chateau se presents a la vue, Par des portes de fer I'entr^e est d^fendue ; Les murs en sont 6pais et les fosses prof onds ; On y voit des cr^neaux, des tours, des bastions, Et des soldats arm^s veillent sur ses murailles." Frame this with such details as the surround- ing country supplies, the Cher on one side, the Loire on the other, and the fertile hills of St. Cyr, of Ballon, and of Joue, and one has a picture worthy of the greatest painter of any time. Louis XI. died at Plessis, after having lived there many years. Louis XII. made of it a rendezvous de chasse, but Frangois II. confided its care to a governor and would never live in it. Louis XIV. gave the governorship as a hereditary perquisite to the widow of the Seigneur de Sausac. In 1778 it was used as a sort of retreat for the indigent, though happily enough Touraine was never overburdened with this class of hu- manity. Under Louis XV. a Mademoiselle De- neux, a momentary rival of La Pompadour and Du Barry, found a retreat here. Later it be- came a maison de correction, and finally a depot militaire. At the time of the Revolution it was declared to be national property, and on the nineteenth Nivoise, Year IV., Citizen Cor- meri, justice of the peace at Tours, fixed its 216 Old Touraine and the Loire Country value at one hundred and thirty-one thousand francs. To-day it is as bare and uncouth as a mere barracks or as a disused flour-mill, and its ruins are visited partly because of their former his- torical glories, as recalled by students of French history, and partly because of the glamour which was shed over it, for English readers, by Scott. Sixty years ago a French writer deplored the fact that, on leaving these scanty remains of a so long gone past, he observed a notice nailed to a pillar of the porte-cochere reading: LA FERME DU PLESSI8 O LOUER OU A VENDRE To-day some sort of a division and rear- rangement of the property has been made, but the result is no less mournful and sad, and thus a glorious page of the annals of France has become blurred. It is interesting to recall what manner of persons composed the household of Louis XI. when he resided at Plessis-les-Tours. Com- mines, his historian, has said that habitually it consisted of a chancellor, a juge de Vhotel, Tours and About There 217 a private secretary, and a treasurer, each hav- ing under him various employees. In addition there was a master of the pantry, a cupbearer, a chef de bouche and a chef de cuisine, a frui- tier, a master of the horse, a quartermaster or master-at-arms, and, in immediate control of these domestic servants, a seneschal or grand maitre. In many respects the household was not luxuriously conducted, for the parsimoni- ous Louis lived fully up to the false maxim: " Qui peu donne, beaucoup recueille." Louis himself was fond of doing what the modern housewife would call " messing about in the kitchen." He did not dabble at cookery as a pastime, or that sort of thing ; but rather he kept an eagle eye on the whole conduct of the affairs of the household. One day, coming to the kitchen en neglige, he saw a small boy turning a spit before the fire. '' And what might you be called? " said he, patting the lad on the shoulder. '' Etienne," replied the marmiton. ^' Thy pays, my lad? " '^ Le Berry." '' Thy age? " '' Fifteen, come St. Martin's." '' Thy wish? " 218 Old Touraine and the Loire Country '' To be as great as the king " (he had not recognized his royal master). " And what wishes the king? " " His expenses to become less." The reply brought good fortune for the lad, for Louis made him his valet de chamhre, and took him afterward into his most intimate con- fidence. Louis was fond of la chasse, and Scott does not overlook this fact in " Quentin Durward." When affairs of state did not press, it was the king's greatest pleasure. For the royal hunt no pains or expense were spared. The carriages were without an equal elsewhere in the courts of Europe, and the hunting establishment was equipped with chiens courants from Spain, levriers from Bretagne, bassets from Valence, mules from Sicily, and horses from Naples. The attractions of the environs of Tours are many and interesting: St. Symphorien, Va- rennes, the Grottoes of Ste. Radegonde, and the site of that most famous abbey of Marmoutier, also a foundation of St. Martin. Here, under the name Martinus Monasterium, grew up an immense and superb establishment. From an old seventeenth-century print one quotes the following couplet: i Tours and About There 219 " De quel c6t6 que le vent vente Marmoutier a cens at rente." From this one infers that the abbey's original functions are performed no more. In the middle ages (thirteenth century) it was one of the most powerful institutions of its class, and its church one of the most beautiful 220 Old Touraine and the Loire Country in Touraine. The tower and donjon .are the only substantial remains of this early edifice. A curious chapel, called the '' Chapelle des Sept Dormants," is here cut in the form of a cross into the rock of the hillside, where are buried the remains of the Seven Sleepers, the disciples of St. Martin, who, as the holy man had predicted, all died on the same day. Beyond Marmoutier, a stairway of 122 steps, cut also in the rock, leads to the plateau on which stands the gaunt and ugly Lanterne de Rochecorbon, a fourteenth-century construc- tion with a crenelated summit, an unlovely companion of that even more enigmatic erec- tion known as ''La Pile," a few miles down the Loire at Cinq-Mars. CHAPTER XI. LUYNES AND LANGEAIS Below Tours, and before reaching Saumnr, are a succession of panoramic surprises which are only to be likened to those of our imag- ination, but they are very real nevertheless. As one leaves Tours by the road which skirts the right bank of the Loire, he is once more impressed by the fact that the cailloux de Loire are the river's chief product, though fried fish, of a similar variety to those found in the Seine, are found on the menus of all roadside taverns and restaurants. Still, the effect of the uncovered bed of the Loire, with its variegated pebbles and mirror- like pools, is infinitely more picturesque than if it were mud flats, and its tree-bordered banks are for ever opening great alleyed vistas such as are only known in France. The hills on either bank are not of the stu- pendous and magnificently scenic order of those of the Seine above and below Rouen ; but, such 221 222 Old Touraine and the Loire Country as they are, they are of much the same com- position, a soft talcy formation which here serves admirably the purposes of clifif-dwell- ings for the vineyard and wine-press workers, who form practically the sole population of the Loire villages from Vouvray, just above Tours, to Saumur far below. On the hillsides are the vineyards them- selves, growing out of the thin layer of soil in shades of red and brown and golden, which no artist has ever been able to copy, for no one has painted the rich colouring of a vine- yard in a manner at all approaching the orig- inal. Not far below Tours, on the right bank, rise the towers and turrets of the Chateau de Luynes, hanging perilously high above the low- land which borders upon the river. An un- pleasant tooting tram gives communication a dozen times a day with Tours, but few, appar- ently, patronize it except peasants with market- baskets, and vineyard workers going into town for a jollification. It is perhaps just as well, for the fine little town of Luynes, which takes its name from the chateau which has been the residence of a Comte de Luynes since the days of Louis XIIL, would be quite spoiled if it were on the beaten track. 222 Old Touraine and the Loire Country as they are, they are of much the same com- position, a soft talcy formation which here serves admirably the purj^oses of cliff-dwell- ings for the vineyard and wine-press workers, who form practically the sole population of the Loire villages from Vouvray, just above Tours, to Saumur far below. On' the hillsides are the vineyards them- selves, growing out of the thin layer of soil in shades of red and brown and golden, which no artist has ever been able to copy, for no one has painted the rich colouring of a vine- yard in a4n^^g^,^t^^l^ag)^^roaching the orig- inal. Not far below Tours, on the right bank, rise the towers and turrets of the Chateau de Luynes, hanging perilously high above the low- land which borders upon the river. An un- pleasant tooting tram, gives communication a dozen times a day with Tours, but few, appar- ently, patronize it except peasants with market- baskets, and vineyard workers going into town for a jollification. It is perhaps just as well, for the fine little town of Luynes, which takes its name from the chateau which has been the residence of a Comte de Luynes since the days of Louis XIIL, would be quite spoiled if it were on the beaten track. Luynes and Langeais 223 The brusque fagade of the Chateau de Luynes makes a charming interior, judging from the descriptions and drawings which are to be met with in an elaborately prepared volume devoted to its history. The stranger is allowed to enter within the gates of the courtyard, beneath the grim coiff ed towers; but he may visit only certain apart- ments. He will, however, see enough to indi- cate that the edifice was something more than a mere maison de campagne. All the attributes of an important fortress are here, great, round, thickly built towers, with but few exterior win- dows, and those high up from the ground. There is nothing of luxurious elegance about it, and its aspect is forbidding, though im- posing. The chateau belies its looks somewhat, for it was built only in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, when, in most of its neighbours, the more or less florid Eenaissance was in vogue. A Renaissance structure in stone and brick forms a part of that which faces on the interior court, and is flanked by a fine octagonal " tour d'escalier." From the terrace of the courtyard one gets an impressive view of the Loire, which glides by two or more kilometres away, and of the 224 Old Touraine and the Loire Country towers and roof-tops of Tours, and the vine- carpeted hills which stretch away along the river's bank in either direction. The chateau of Luynes is still in the posses- sion of a Due de Luynes, through whose cour- tesy one may visit such of the apartments as his servants are allowed to show. It is not so great an exhibition, nor so good a one, as is to be had at Langeais ; but it is satisfactory as far as it goes, and, when it is supplemented by the walks and views which are to be had on the plateau, upon which the grim-towered chateau sits, the memory of it all becomes most pleasurable. The former Dues de Luynes were continually appearing in the historic events of the later Eenaissance period, but it was only with Louis XIIL, he who would have put France under the protection of the Virgin, that the chatelain of Luynes came to a position of real power. Louis made Albert, the Gascon, both Due de Luynes and Connetable de France, and thereby gave birth to a tyrant whom he hated and feared, as he did his mother, his wife, and his minister, Richelieu. The site occupied by the chateau of Luynes is truly marvellous, though, as a matter of fact, there is no great magnificence about the pro- MedicBval Stairway and the Chateau de Luyyies Luynes and Langeais 225 portions of the chateau itself. It is piled grace- fully on the top of a table-land which rises abruptly from the Loire and has a charmingly quaint old town nestled confidingly below it, as if for protection. One reaches the chateau by any one of a half- dozen methods, by the highroad which bends around in hairpin curves until it reaches the plateau above, by various paths across or around the vineyards of the hillside, or by a quaintly cut mediaeval stairway, levelled and terraced in the gravelly soil until it ends just beneath the frowning walls of the chateau itself. From this point one gets quite the most impos- ing aspect of the chateau to be had, its towers and turrets piercing the sky high above the head, and carrying the mind back to the days when civilization meant something more — or less — than it does to-day, with the toot of a steam-tram down below on the river's bank and the midday whistles of the factories of Tours rending one's ears the moment he forgets the past and recalls the present. To-day the Chateau de Luynes is modern, at least to the extent that it is lived in, and has all the refinements of a modern civilization; but one does not realize all this from an exte- rior contemplation, and only as one strolls 226 Old Touraine and the Loire Country through the apartments publicly shown, and gets glimpses of electrical conveniences and modern arrangements, does he wonder how far different it may have been before all this came to pass. Built in early Eenaissance times, the chateau has all the peculiarities of the feudal period, when window-openings were few and far be- tween, and high up above the level of the pave- ment. In feudal and warlike times this often proved an admirable feature; but one would have thought that, with the beginning of the Eenaissance, a more ample provision would have been made for the admission of sunshine. The chef-d'oeuvre of this really great archi- tectural monument is undoubtedly the fagade of the beautiful fifteenth-century courtyard. There is nothing even remotely feudal here, but a purely decorative effect which is as charming in its way as is the exterior fagade of Azay-le-Eideau. '' A poem," it has been called, *' in weather-worn timber and stone," and the simile could hardly be improved upon. The town, too, or such of it as immediately adjoins the chateau, is likewise charming and quaint, and sleepily indolent as far as any great activity is concerned. Luynes was the seat of a seigneurie until Luynes and Langeais 227 1619, when it became a possession of the Comte de Maille. Finally it came to Charles d 'Albert, known as '' D 'Albert de Luynes," a former page to Henri IV., who afterward became the favourite and the Guardian of the Seals of Louis XIV.; and thus the earlier foundation of Maille became known as Luynes. Except for its old houses of wood and stone, its old wooden market-house, and its tortuous streets of stairs, there are few features here, except the chateau, which take rank as archi- tectural monuments of worth. The church is a modern structure, built after the Romanesque manner and wholly without warmth and feel- ing. From the height on which stands the chateau of Luynes one sees, as his eye follows the course of the Loire to the southwestward, the gaunt, unbeautif ul ' ' Pile ' ' of Cinq-Mars. The origin of this singular square tower, looking for all the world like a factory chimney or some great ventilating-shaft, is lost far back in Car- lovingian, or perhaps Roman, times. It is a mystery to archaeologists and antiquarians, some claiming it to be a military monument, others a beacon by land, and yet others believ- ing it to be of some religious significance. At all events, all the explanations ignore the 228 Old Touraine and the Loire Country four pyramidions of its topmost course, and these, be it remarked, are quite the most curi- ous feature of the whole fabric. To many the name of the little town of Cinq- Mars will suggest that of the Marquis de Cinq- Mars, a court favourite of Louis XIII. It was the ambitious but unhappy career at court of this young gallant which ultimately resulted in his death on the scaffold, and in the razing, by Richelieu, of his ancestral residence, the castle of Cinq-Mars, " to the heights of in- famy." The expression is a curious one, but history so records it. All that is left to-day to remind one of the stronghold of the D 'Effiats of Cinq-Mars are its two crumbling gate- towers with an arch between and a few frag- mentary foundation walls which follow the summit of the cliff behind '' La Pile." The little town of not more than a couple of thousand inhabitants nestles in a bend of the Loire, where there is so great a breadth that it looks like a long-drawn-out lake. The low hills, so characteristic of these parts, stretch themselves on either bank, unbroken except where some little streamlet forces its way by a gentle ravine through the scrubby under- growth. Oaks and firs and huge limestone cliffs jut out from the top of the hillside on Ruins oj Cinq-Mars Luynes and Langeais 229 the right bank and shelter the town which lies below. Cinq-Mars is a miniature metropolis, though not a very progressive one at first sight; in- deed, beyond its long main street and its houses, which cluster about its grim, though beautiful, tenth and twelfth century church, there are few signs of even provincial importance. In reality Cinq-Mars is the centre of a large and important wine industry, where you may hear discussed, at the tahle d'hote of its not very readily found little inn^, the poor prices which the usually abundant crop always brings. The native even bewails the fact that he is not blessed with a poor season or two and then he would be able to sell his fine vintages for some- thing more than three sous a litre. By the time it reaches Paris this vin de Touraine of com- merce has aggrandized itself so that it com- mands two francs fifty centimes on the Boule- vards, and a franc fifty in the University quarter. The fall of Henri Cinq-Mars was most pathetic, though no doubt moralists will claim that because of his covetous ambitions he de- served nothing better. He went up to Paris from Touraine, a boy of twenty, and was presented to the king, who was 230 Old Touraine and the Loire Country immediately impressed by his distinguished manners. From infancy Cinq-Mars had been a lover of life in the open. He had hunted the forests of Touraine, and had angled the waters of the Loire, and thus he came to give a new zest to the already sad life of Louis XIII. Honour after honour was piled upon him until he was made Grand Seneschal of France and Master of the King's Horse, at which time he dropped his natal patronymic and became known as " Monsieur le Grand." Cinq-Mars fell madly in love with Marion Delorme and wished to make her " Madame la Grande, ' ' but the dowager Marquise de Cinq- Mars would not hear of it: Mile. Marion De- lorme, the Aspasia of her day, would be no honour to the ancestral tree of the Effiats of Cinq-Mars. Headstrong and wilful, one early morning. Monsieur le Grand and his beloved, then only thirty, took coach from her hotel in the Eue des Tournelles at Paris for the old family castle in Touraine, sitting high on the hills above the feudal village which bore the name of Cinq- Mars. In the chapel they were secretly mar- ried, and for eight days the proverbial mar- riage-bell rang true. Their Nemesis appeared on the ninth day in the person of the dowager. Luynes and Langeais 231 and Cinq-Mars told his mother that the whole affair was simply a passe temps, and that Mile. Delorme was still Mile. Delorme. His mother would not be deceived, however, and she flew for succour to Eichelieu, who himself was more than slightly acquainted with the charms of the fair Marion. This was Cinq-Mars 's downfall. He advised the king " by fair means or foul, let Richelieu die," and the king listened. A conspiracy was formed, by Cinq-Mars and others, to do away with the cardinal, and even the king, at whose death Gaston of Orleans was to be proclaimed regent for his nephew, the infant Louis XIV. The court went to Narbonne, on the Mediter- ranean, that it might be near aid from Spain; all of which was a subterfuge of Cinq-Mars. The rest moves quickly: Eichelieu discovered the plot ; Cinq-Mars attempted to flee disguised as a Spaniard, was captured and brought as a prisoner to the castle at Montpellier. Richelieu had proved the more powerful of the two ; but he was dying, and this is the rea- son, perhaps, why he hurried matters. Cinq- Mars, ' ' the amiable criminal, ' ' went to the tor- ture-chamber, and afterward to the scaffold. *' Then," say the old chronicles, " Richelieu ordered that the feudal castle of Cinq-Mars, in 232 Old Touraine and the Loire Country the valley of the Loire, should be blown up, and the towers razed to the height of infamy. ' ' From Cinq-Mars to Langeais, whose chateau is really one of the most appealing sights of the Loire, the characteristics of the country are topographically and economically the same; green hills slope, vine-covered, to the river, with here and there a tiny rivulet flowing into the greater stream. As at Cinq-Mars, the chief commodity of Langeais is wine, rich, red wine and pale amber, too, but all of it wine of a quality and at a price which would make the city-dweller envious indeed. There are two distinct chateaux at Langeais ; at least, there is the chateau, and just beyond the ornamental stone-carpet of its courtyard are the ruins of one of the earliest donjons, or keeps, in all France. It dates from the year 990, and was built by the celebrated Comte d'Anjou, Foulques Nerra, '' un criminel devoye des hommes et de Dieu/' whose hobby, evi- dently, was building chateaux, as his '' follies " in stone are said to have encumbered the land in those old days. Taken and retaken, dismantled and in part razed in the fifteenth century, it gave place to the present chateau by the orders of Louis XI. Chateau de Langeais Luynes and Langeais 233 The Chateau de Langeais of to-day is a robust example of its kind; its walls, flanked by great hooded towers, have a surrounding " guette," or gallery, which served as a means of communication from one part of the estab- lishment to another and, in warlike times, al- lowed boiling oil or melted lead, or whatever they may have used for the purpose, to be poured down upon the heads of any besiegers who had the audacity to attack it. There is no glacis or moat, but the machico- lations, sixty feet or more up from the ground, must have afforded a well-nigh perfect means of repelling a near attack. Altogether Langeais is a redoubtable little chateau of the period, and its aspect to-day has changed but very little. *' It is the swan-song of expiring feudalism," said the Abbe Bosse- boeuf. One gets a thrill of heroic emotion when he views its hardy walls for the first time: '' a mountain of stone, a heroic poem of Gothic art," it has with reason been called. Jean Bourre, the minister of Louis XL, built the present chateau about 1460. The chief events of its history were the drawing up within its walls of the ' ' common law ' ' of Tou- raine, by the order of Charles VII., and the 234 Old Touraine and the Loire Country marriage of Charles VIII. with Anne de Bre- tagne, on the 16th of December, 1491. The land belonged, in 1276, to Pierre de Brosse, the minister of Philippe-le-Hardi ; later, to Frangois d 'Orleans, son of the cele- brated Bdtard; to the Princesse de Conti, daughter of the Due de Guise; to the families Du Bellay and D 'Effiats, Barons of Cinq-Mars ; and, finally, to the Due de Luynes, in whose hands it remained up to the Eevolution. Honore de Balzac, who may well be called one of the historians of Touraine, gave to one of his heroines the name of Langeais. To- day, however, the family of Langeais does not exist, and, indeed, according to the chronicles, never had any connection with either the don- jon of Foulques Nerra or the chateau of the fifteenth century. The present owner is M. Jacques Siegfreid, who has admirably restored and furnished it after the Gothic style of the middle ages. The chateau of Langeais, like that of Chenon- ceaux, is occupied, as one learns from a visit to its interior. A lackey of a superior order receives you ; you pay a franc for an admission ticket, and the lackey conducts you through nearly, if not quite all, of the apartments. Where the family goes during this process it is Luynes and Langeais 235 hard to say, but doubtless they are willing to inconvenience themselves for the benefit of '' touring " humanity. The interior, no less than the exterior, im- presses one as being something which has lived in the past, and yet exists to-day in all its origi- nal glory, for the present proprietor, with the aid of an admirable adviser, M. Lucien Roy, a Parisian architect, has produced a resemblance of its former furnishings which, so far as it goes, is beyond criticism. There is nothing of bareness about it, nor is there an over-luxuriant interpolation of irrele- vent things, such as a curator crowds into a museum. In short, nothing more has been done than to attempt to reconstitute a habitation of the fifteenth century. For seventeen years the work has gone on, and there have been col- lected many authentic furnishings contempo- rary with the fabric itself, great oaken beds, tables, chairs, benches, tapestries, and other articles. In addition, the decorations have been carried out after the same manner, copied in many cases from contemporary pictures and prints. To-day, the general aspect is that of a peace- ful household, with all recollections of feudal times banished for ever. All is tranquil, re- 236 Old Touraine and the Loire Country spectable, and luxurious, and it would take a chronic faultfinder not to be content with the manner with which these admirable restora- tions and refurnishings have been carried out. One notes particularly the infinite variety and appropriateness of the tiling which goes to make up the floors of these great salons — modern though it is. The great chimneypieces, however, are ancient, and have not been re- touched. Those in the Salle des Grardes and the Salle where was celebrated the marriage of Charles VIII. and Anne de Bretagne, with their ornamentation in the best of Gothic, are especially noteworthy. This latter apartment is the chief attraction of the chateau and the room of which the pres- ent dwellers in this charming monument of history are naturally the most proud. To-day it forms the great dining-hall of the establish- ment. Mementos of this marriage, so momen- tous for France, are exceedingly numerous along the lower Loire, but this handsome room quite leads them all. This marriage, and the goods and lands it brought to the Crown, had but one stipulation connected with it, and that was that the Duchesse Anne should be priv- ileged to marry the elderly king's successor, should she survive her royal husband. Luynes and Langeais 237 . B- /VV C A^ ^NLFS. ^AT • THE'TI ME.Or-THEIR«MARRIA&E: 238 Old Touraine and the Loire Country Louis XII. was not at all opposed to becom- ing the husband of la Duchesse Anne after Charles VIII. had met his death on the tennis- court, because this second marriage would for ever bind to France that great province ruled by the gentle Anne. In the Salle des Gardes are six valuable tapestries representing such heroic figures as Caesar and Charlemagne, surrounded by their companions in arms. From the towers, on a clear day, one may see the pyramids of the cathedral at Tours rising on the horizon to the northward. Below is the Chateau de Villandry, where Philippe-Auguste met Henry II. of England to conclude a mem- orable peace. To the right is Azay-le-Rideau, and to the extreme right are the ruined towers of Cinq-Mars and its Pile. Nothing could be more delicious on a bright summer's day than the view from the ramparts of Langeais over the roof-tops of the charming little town in the foreground. Some time after the Revolution there was found, in the gardens of the chateau, the re- mains of a cJiapelle romaine which historians, who have searched the annals of antiquity in Touraine, claim to have been the chapel in hon- our of St. Sauveur which Foulques V., called Luynes and Langeais 239 le Jeune, one of the five Counts of Anjou of that name, constructed upon his return from his voyage to Palestine in the twelfth century. To-day it is overgrown with a trellised grape- vine and is practically not visible, still it is another architectural monument of the first rank with which the not very ample domain of the Chateau de Langeais is endowed. From the courtyard the walls of the chateau take on a Eenaissance aspect; a tiny doorway beside the great gate is manifestly Renais- sance; so, too, are the polygonal towers, with their winding stairs, the pignons and gables of the roof, and what carved stone there is in evidence. Three stone stairways which mount by the slender tourelles serve to communicate with the \^arious floors to-day as they did in the times of Charles VIII. The courtyard itself, with its formal carpet design in stone, its shaded walls, its stone seats, and its Eoman sarcophagus, is a pleasant retreat, but it has not the seclusion of the larger park, delightful though it is. Just before the drawbridge of the old cha- teau, that mediaeval gateway by which one en- ters to-day, one sees the Maison de Eabelais, who is the deity of Langeais and Chinon, as is Balzac that of Tours. It is a fine old-time 240 Old Touraine and the Loire Country house of a certain amplitude and grandeur among its less splendid fellows, now given over, on the ground floor, to a bakery and pastry- shop. Enough is left of its original aspect, and the Renaissance decorations of its fagade are sufficiently well preserved to stamp it as a worthy abode for the '' Cure de Chinon," who lived here for some years. Two other names in literature are connected with Langeais: Ronsard, the poet, who lived here for a time, and Cesar-Alexis-Chichereau, Chevalier de la Barre, who was a poet and a troubadour of repute. The main street of Langeais is still flanked with good Gothic and Renaissance houses, neither pretentious nor mean, but of that order which sets off to great advantage the walls and towers and porches of the chateau and the church. This street follows the ancient Roman roadway which traversed the valley of the Loire through Gaul. The river is here crossed by one of those too frequent, though useful, suspension-bridges, with which the Loire abounds. The guide- books call it beau, but it is not. One has to cross it to reach Azay-le-Rideau, which lies ten kilometres or more away across the Indre. CHAPTER XII. AZAY - LE - EIDEAU, USSE, AND CHINON Feom Langeais, one's obvious route lies towards CMnon, via Azay-le-Eideau and Usse. These latter are practically within the forest, though the Foret de Chinon proper does not actually begin until one leaves Azay behind, when for twenty kilometres or more one of the most superb forest roads in France crosses many hills and dales until it finally descends into Chinon itself. Like most forest roads in France, this high- way is not flat ; it rises and falls with a sheer that is sometimes precipitous, but always with a gravelled surface that gives little dust, and which absorbs water as the sand from the pounce-box of our forefathers dried up ink. This simile calls to mind the fact that in twen- tieth-century France the pounce-box is still in use, notably at wayside railway stations, where the agent writes you out your ticket and dries it off in a box, not of sand, but of sawdust. ?41 242 Old Touraine and the Loire Country To partake of the hospitality of Azay-le- Rideau one must arrive before four in the afternoon, and not earlier than midday. From the photographs and post-cards by which one has become familiar with Azay-le-Rideau, it appears like a great country house sitting by itself far away from any other habitation. In England this is often the case, in France but seldom. Clustered around the walls of the not very great park which surrounds the chateau are all manner of shops and cafes, not of the tour- ist order, — for there is very little here to sug- gest that tourists ever come, though indeed they do, by twos and threes throughout all the year, — but for the accommodation of the population of the little town itself, which must approximate a couple of thousand souls, all of whom appear to be engaged in the culture of the vine and its attendant pursuits, as the wine-presses, the coopers' shops, and other similar establishments plainly show. There is, moreover, the pleasant smell of fermented grape-juice over all, which, like the odour of the hop-fields of Kent, is conducive to sleep; and there lies the charm of Azay-le-Rideau, which seems always half-asleep. The Hotel du Grand Monarque is a wonder- Azay-le-Rideau, Usse, and Chinon 243 fully comfortable country inn, with a dining- room large enough to accommodate half a hun- dred persons, but which, most likely, will serve only yourself. One incongruous note is sounded, — convenient though it be, — and that is the electric light which illuminates the hotel and its dependencies, including the stables, which look as though they might once have been a part of a mediaeval chateau themselves. However, since posting days and tallow dips have gone for ever, one might as well content himself with the superior civilization which confronts him, and be comfortable at least. The Chateau d'Azay-le-Eideau is one of the gems of Touraine's splendid collection of Ee- naissance art treasures, though by no means is it one of the grandest or most imposing. A tree-lined avenue leads from the village street to the chateau, which sits in the midst of a tiny park ; not a grand expanse as at Cham- bord or Chenonceaux, but a sort of green frame with a surrounding moat, fed by the waters of the Indre. The main building is square, with a great coiffed round tower at each corner. The Abbe Chevalier, in his '* Promenades Pittoresques en Touraine," called it the purest and best of French Eenaissance, and such it assuredly is, 244 Old Touraine and the Loire Country if one takes a not too extensive domestic estab- lishment of the early years of the sixteenth century as the typical example. Undoubtedly the sylvan surroundings of the chateau have a great deal to do with the effect- iveness of its charms. The great white walls of its fagade, with the wonderful sculptures of Jean Goujon, glisten in the brilliant sunlight of Touraine through the sycamores and willows which border the Indre in a genuinely romantic fashion. Somewhere within the walls are the remains of an old tower of the one-time fortress which was burned by the Dauphin Charles in 1418, after, says history, '' he had beheaded its gov- ernor and taken all of the defenders to the number of three hundred and thirty-four." This act was in revenge for an alleged insult to his sacred person. There are no remains of this former tower visible exteriorly to-day, and no other bloody acts appear to have attached themselves to the present chateau in all the four hundred years of its existence. Gilles Berthelot erected the present structure early in the reign of Frangois I. He was a man close to the king in affairs of state, first conseiller-secretaire, then tresorier-general des •#-'->< J.K'-'J-*". Chateau d! Azay-le-Rldeau Azay-le-Rideau, Usse, and Chinon 245 finances, hence he knew the value of money. Among the succeeding proprietors" was Guy de Saint Gelais, one of the most accomplished diplomats of his time. He was followed by Henri de Beringhem, who built the stables and ornamented the great room known as the Chambre du Roi from the fact that Louis XIV. once slept there, with the magnificent paintings which are shown to-day. Everywhere is there a rich, though not gross, display of decoration, beginning with such con- structive details as the pointed-roofed tourelles, which are themselves exceedingly decorative. The doors, windows, roof-tops, chimneypieces, and the semi-enclosed circular stairways are all elaborately sculptured after the best manner of the time. The entrance portico is a wonder of its kind, with a strong sculptured arcade and arched window-openings and niches filled with bas- reliefs. Sculptured shells, foliage, and myth- ological symbols combine to form an arabesque, through which are interspersed the favourite ciphers of the region, the ermine and the sala- mander, which go to prove that Frangois and other royalties must at one time or another have had some connection with the chateau. History only tells us, however, that Gilles 246 Old Touraine and the Loire Country Berthelot was a king's minister and Mayor of Tours. Perhaps he thought of handing it over as a gift some day in exchange for further honours. His device bore the words, " Ung Seul Desir/' which may or may not have had a special significance. The interior of the edifice is as beautiful as is its exterior, and is furnished with that luxuri- ance of decorative effect so characteristic of the best era of the Renaissance in France. Until recently the proprietor was the Mar- quis de Biencourt, who, like his fellow proprie- tors of chateaux in Touraine, generously gave visitors an opportunity to see his treasure- house for themselves, and, moreover, furnished a guide who was something more than a menial and yet not a supercilious functionary. Within a twelvemonth this '^ purest joy of the French Renaissance " was put upon the real estate market, with the result that it might have fallen into unappreciative hands, or, what a Touraine antiquarian told the writer would be the worse fate that could possibly befall it, might be bought up by some American million- aire, who through the services of the house- breaker would dismantle it and remove it stone by stone and set it up anew on some asphalted avenue in some western metropolis. This ex- Azay-le-Eideau, Usse, and Chinon 247 traordinary fear or rumour, whatever it was, soon passed away and as a ^^ monument histo- rique " the chateau has become the property of the French government. Less original, perhaps, in plan than Chenon- ceaux, less appealing in its ensemble and less fortunate in its situation, Azay-le-Rideau is nevertheless entitled to the praises which have been heaped upon it. It is but a dozen kilometres from Azay-le- Eideau to Usse, on the road to Chinon. The Chateau d'Usse is indeed a big thing; not so grand as Chambord, nor so winsome as Lan- geais, but infinitely more characteristic of what one imagines a great residential chateau to have been like. It belongs to-day to the Comte de Blacas, and once was the property of Vau- ban, Marechal of France, under Louis XIV., who built the terrace which lies between it and the river, a branch of the Indre. Perched high above the hemp-lands of the river-bottom, which here are the most prolific in the valley of the Indre, the chateau with its park of seven hundred or more acres is truly regal in its appointments and surroundings. This park extends to the boundary of the national reservation, the Foret de Chinon. The Renaissance chateau of to-day is a recon- 248 Old Touraine and the Loire Country struction of the sixteenth century, which pre- serves, however, the great cylindrical towers of a century earlier. Its architecture is on the whole fantastic, at least as much so as Cham- bord, but it is none the less hardy and strong. Practically it consists of a series of pavilions bound to the great fifteenth-century donjon by smaller towers and turrets, all slate-capped and pointed, with machicolations surrounding them, and above that a sort of roofed and crenelated battlement which passes like a collar around all the outer wall. The general effect of the exterior walls is that of a great feudal stronghold, while from the courtyard the aspect is simply that of a luxurious Eenaissance town house, showing at least how the two styles can be pleasingly com- bined. Crenelated battlements are as old as Pom- peii, so it is doubtful if the feudality of France did much to increase their use or effectiveness. They were originally of such dimensions as to allow a complete shelter for an archer stand- ing behind one of the uprights. The contrast to those of a later day, which, virtually nothing more than a course of decorative stonework, give no impression of utility, is great, though Chateau d'Usse Azay-le-Rideau, Usse, and Chinon 249 here at Usse they are more pronounced than in many other similar edifices. The interior arrangements here give due prominence to a fine staircase, ornamented with a painting of St. John that is attributed to Michel Ange. The Chambre du Eoi is hung with ancient embroideries, and there is a beautiful Renais- sance chapel, above the door of which is a six- teenth-century bas-relief of the Apostles. Most of the other great rooms which are shown are resplendent in oak-beamed ceilings and massive chimneypieces, always a distinct feature of Renaissance chateau-building, and one which makes modern imitations appear mean and ugly. To realize this to the full one has only to recall the dining-room of the pretentious hotel which huddles under the walls of Am- boise. In a photograph it looks like a regal banqueting-hall ; but in reality it is as tawdry as stage scenery, with its imitation wainscoted walls, its imitation beamed ceiling of three- quarter-inch planks, and its plaster of Paris fireplace. Near Usse is the Chateau de Rochecotte which recalls the name of a celebrated chief- tain of the Chouans. It belongs to-day, though it is not their paternal home, to the family of 250 Old Touraine and the Loire Country Castellane, a name which to many is quite asj celebrated and perhaps better known. The chateau contains a fine collection of Dutch painting's of the seventeenth century, and | in its chapel there is a remarkably beautiful copy of the Sistine Madonna. The name of' Talleyrand is intimately connected with the occupancy of the chateau, in pre-revolutionary times, by Eochecotte. On the road to Chinon one passes through, or near, Huismes, which has nothing to stay one's march but a good twelfth-century church, which looks as though its doors were never opened. The Chateau de la Villaumere, of the fifteenth century, is near by, and of more than passing interest are the ruins of the Chateau de Bonneventure, built, it is said, by Charles VII. for Agnes Sorel, who, with all her faults, stands high in the esteem of most lovers of French history. At any rate this shrine of '^ la belle des belles " is worthy to rank with that containing her tomb at Loches. As one enters Chinon by road he meets with the usual steep decline into a river-valley, which separates one height from another. Generally this is the topographic formation throughout France, and Chinon, with its silent guardians, the fragments of three non-con- Azay-le-Rideau, Usse, and Chinon 251 temporary castles, all on the same site, is no exception. " We never went to CMnon," says Henry James, in Ms ' ' Little Tour in France, ' ' written thirty or more years ago. " But one cannot do everything," he continues, " and I would rather have missed Chinon than Chenonceaux. " A painter would have put it differently. Che- nonceaux is all that fact and fancy have painted it, a gem in a perfect setting, and Chinon 's three castles are but mere crumbling walls; but their environs form a petit pays which will some day develop into an " artists' sketching- ground," in years to come, beside which Etre- tat, Moret, Pont Aven, Giverny, and Auvers will cease to be considered. At the base of the escarped rock on which sit the chateaux, or what is left of them, lies the town of Chinon, with its old houses in wood and stone and its great, gaunt, but beauti- ful churches. Before it flows the Vienne, one of the most romantically beautiful of all the secondary rivers of France. From the castrwm romanum of the em- perors to the feudal conquest Chinon played its due part in the history of Touraine. There are those who claim that Chinon is a '' cite an- tediluvienne " and that it was founded by Cain, 252 Old Touraine and the Loire Country who after his crime fled from the paternal male- diction and found a refuge here; and that its name, at first Caynon, became Chinon. Like the derivation of most ancient place-names, this claim involves a wide imagination and as- suredly sounds unreasonable. Caino may, with more likelihood, have been a Celtic word, mean- ing an excavation, and came to be adopted be- cause of the subterranean quarries from which the stone was drawn for the building of the town. The annalists of the western empire give it as Castrum-Caino, and whether its origin dates from antediluvian times or not, it was a town in the very earliest days of the Christian era. The importance of Chinon 's role in history and the beauty of its situation have inspired many writers to sing its praises. «... Chinon Petite ville, grand renom Assise snr pierre ancienne Au haute le bois, an bas la Vienne." The disposition of the town is most pic- turesque. The winding streets and stairways are ' ' foreign ; ' ' like Italy, if you will, or some of the steps to be seen in the towns bordering upon the Adriatic. At all events, Chinon is not The Roof-tops of Chin on Azay-le-Rideau, Usse, and Chinon 253 exactly like any other town in France, either with respect to its layout or its distinct fea- tures, and it is not at all like what one com- monly supposes to be characteristic of the French. Dungeons of mediaeval chateaux are here turned into dwellings and wine-cellars, and have the advantage, for both uses, of being cool in summer and warm in winter. Already, in the year 371, Chinon 's popula- tion was so considerable that St. Martin, newly elected Bishop of Tours, longed to preach Christianity to its people, who were still idola- tors. Some years afterward St. Mesme or Maxime, fleeing from the barbarians of the north, came to Chinon, and soon surrounded himself with many adherents of the faith, and in the year 402 consecrated the original founda- tion of the church which now bears his name. Clovis made Chinon one of the strongest for- tresses of his kingdom, and in the tenth cen- tury it came into the possession of the Comtes de Touraine. Later, in 1044, Thibaut III. ceded it to Geoffroy Martel. The Plantage- nets frequently sojourned at Chinon, becoming its masters in the twelfth century, from which time it was held by the Kings of France up to Louis XL 254 Old Touraine and the Loire Country The most picturesque event of Chinon's his- tory took place in 1428, when Charles VII. here assembled the States General, and Jeanne d'Arc prevailed upon him to march forthwith upon Orleans, then besieged by the English. Memories of Charles VII., of Jeanne d'Arc, and of Frangois Rabelais are inextricably mixed in the guide-book accounts of Chinon; but their respective histories are not so in- volved as would appear. There is some doubt as to whether the Pantagruelist was actually born at Chinon or in the suburbs, therefore there is no '' maison natale " before which literary pilgrims may make their devotions. All this is a great pity, for Rabelais excites in the minds of most people a greater curiosity than perhaps any other mediaeval man of letters that the world has known. Though one cannot feast his eye upon the spot of Rabelais 's birth, historians agree that it took place at Chinon in 1483. Much is known of the ' ' Cure de Chinon ; ' ' but, in spite of his rank as the first of the mediaeval satirists, his was not a wide-spread popularity, nor can one speak very highly of his appearance as a type of the Tourangeau of his time. His portraits make him appear a most supercilious charac- ter, and doubtless he was. He certainly was Azay-le-Eideau, Usse, and Chinon 255 'V "i, 'V ;. E ; 1. ■"!, 1 1 1 ■"' 'f If "|! Ill '11 ■;;■ 'i| i' ■?, "i| iki f n ii:.t ii'imii 7 1 n m 1 1 ii fi i' "' I' 'I 1 I ', .' I : ' |, I I I ,1 I ; ' ,■ 1! 1! j ,il ,1' i|i' |l , I 7 I „' 1 1 ■! ,1 I ,|i ■" ' ,|l 1!!' J' /',!!! 256 Old Touraine and the Loire Country not an Adonis, nor had he the head of a god or the cleverness of a court gallant. Indeed there has been a tendency of late to represent him as a buffoon, a trait wholly foreign to his real character. As for Charles VII. and Jeanne d'Arc, Chi- non was simply the meeting-place between the inspired maid and her sovereign, when she urged him to put himself at the head of his troops and march upon Orleans. Chinon is of the sunny south; here the grapes ripen early and cling affectionately, not only to the hillsides, but to the very house-walls themselves. Chinon 's attractions consist of fragments of three castles, dating from feudal times; of three churches, of more than ordinary interest and picturesqueness ; and many old timbered and gabled houses; nor should one forget the Hotel de France, itself a reminder of other days, with its vine-covered courtyard and tin- kling bells hanging beneath its gallery, for all the world like the sort of thing one sees upon the stage. There is not much else about the hotel that is of interest except its very ancient-looking high-posted beds and its waxed tiled floors, worn into smooth ruts by the feet of countless Azay-le-Rideau, Usse, and Chinon 257 thousands and by countless polishings with wax. It is curious how a waxed tiled floor strikes one as being something altogether superior to one of wood. Though harder in substance, it is infinitely pleasanter to the feet, and warm and mellow, as a floor should be ; moreover it seems to have the faculty of unconsciously keeping itself clean. The Chateau de Chinon, as it is commonly called, differs greatly from the usual Loire chateau; indeed it is quite another variety al- together, and more like what we know else- where as a castle ; or, rather it is three castles, for each^ so far as its remains are concerned, is distinct and separate. The Chateau de St. Georges is the most an- cient and is an enlargement by Henry Plan- tagenet — whom a Frenchman has called ^' the King Lear of his race " — of a still more an- cient fortress. The Chateau du Milieu is built upon the ruins of the castrum romanum, vestiges of which are yet visible. It dates from the eleventh, twelfth, and thirteenth centuries, and was restored under Charles VI., Charles VII., and Louis XL One enters through the curious Tour de I'Horloge, to which access is given by a modern bridge, as it was in other days by an ancient 258 Old Touraine and the Loire Country drawbridge which covered the old-time moat. The Grand Logis, the royal habitation of the twelfth to fifteenth centuries, is to the right, overlooking the town. Here died Henry II. of England (1189) and here lived Charles VII. and Louis XI. It was in the G-rand Salle of this chateau that Jeanne d'Arc was first presented to her sovereign (March 8, 1429). From the hour of this auspicious meeting until the hour of the departure for Orleans she herself lived in the tower of the Chateau de Coudray, a little farther beyond, under guard of Guillaume Belier. The meeting between the king and the " Maid " is described by an old historian of Touraine as follows : ' ' The inhabitants of Chinon received her with enthusiasm, the pur- pose of her mission having already preceded her. . . . She appeared at court as ' une pauvre petite bergerette ' and was received in the Grande Salle, lighted by fifty torches and containing three hundred persons." (This statement would seem to point to the fact that it was not the salle which is shown to-day; it certainly could not be made to hold three hun- dred people unless they stood on each other's shoulders!) '' The seigneurs were all clad in magnificent robes, but the king, on the contrary, Chateau de Chinon Azay-le-Rideau, Usse, and Chinon 259 was dressed most simply. The * Maid/ en- dowed with a spirit and sagacity superior to her education, advanced without hesitation. * Dieu vous donne bonne vie, gentil roi/ said she. ..." The Grand Logis is flanked by a square tower which is separated from the Chateau de Cou- dray and the Tour de Boissy by a moat. In the magnificent Tour de Boissy was the ancient Salle des Gardes, while above was a battle- mented gallery which gave an outlook over the surrounding country. This watch-tower as- sured absolute safety from surprise to any monarch who might have wished to study the situation for himself. The Tour du Moulin is another of the de- fences, more elegant, if possible, than the Tour de Boissy. It is taller and less rotund; the French say it is " svelt/' and that describes it as well as anything. It also fits into the land- scape in a manner which no other mediaeval donjon of France does, unless it be that of Cha- teau Gaillard, in Normandy. The primitive Chateau de Coudray was built by Thibaut-le-Tricheur in 954, and its bastion and sustaining walls are still in evidence. The Vienne, which runs by Chinon to join the Loire above Saumur, is, in many respects, a re- 260 Old Touraine and the Loire Country markable river, althougk just here there is nothing very remarkable about it. It is, how- ever, delightfully picturesque, as it washes the tree-lined quays which form Chinon's river- front for a distance of upward of two kilo- metres. In general the waterway reminds one of something between a great traffic-bearing river and a mere pleasant stream. The bridge between Chinon and its faubourg is typical of the art of bridge-building, at which, in mediaeval times, the French were excelled by no other nation. To-day, in company with the Americans, they build iron and steel abomina- tions which are eyesores which no amount of utility will ever induce one to really admire. Not so the French bridges of mediaeval times, of the type of those at Blois on the Loire ; at Chinon on the Vienne; at Avignon on the Ehone; or at Cahors on the Lot. If Rabelais had not rendered popular Chinon and the Chinonais the public would have yet to learn of this delightful pays, in spite of that famous first meeting between Charles VII. and Jeanne d'Arc. If the modern founders of '^ garden-cities " would only go as far back as the time of Riche- lieu they would find a good example to follow in the little Touraine town, the chef-lieu of the Azay-le-Rideau, Usse, and Chinon 261 Commune, which bears the name of Richelieu. When Armand du Plessis first became the seigneur of this " little land '^ he resolutely set about to make of the property a town which should dignify his name. Accordingly he built, at his own expense, after the plans of Lemer- cier, " a city, regular, vast, and luxurious." At the same time the cardinal-minister re- placed the paternal manor with a chateau elab- orately and prodigally royal. Richelieu was a sort of '^ petit Versailles," which was to be to Chinon what the real Ver- sailles was to the capital. To-day, as in other days, it is a ^^ ville vaste, reguliere et luxueuse/' but it is unfinished. One great street only has been completed on its original lines, and it is exactly 450 metres long. Originally the town was to have the dimensions of but six hundred by four hundred metres; modest enough in size, but of the greatest lux- ury. The cardinal had no desire to make it more grand, but even what he had planned was not to be. Its one great street is bordered with imposing buildings, but their tenants to-day have not the least resemblance to the courtiers of the cardinal who formerly occupied them. Richelieu disappeared in the course of time, and work on his hobby stopped, or at least 262 Old Touraine and the Loire Country changed radically in its plan. Secondary- streets were laid out, of less grandeur, and peopled with houses without character, low in stature, and unimposing. The plan of a ville seigneuriale gave way to a ville de labeur. Other habitations grew up until to-day twenty- five hundred souls find their living on the spot where once was intended to be only a life of luxury. Of the monuments with which Richelieu would have ornamented his town there remains a curious market-hall and a church in the pure Jesuitic style of architecture, lacking nothing of pretence and grandeur. Not much can be said for the vast Eglise Notre Dame de Richelieu, a heavy Italian struc- ture, built from the plans of Lemercier. How- ever satisfying and beautiful the style may be in Italy, it is manifestly, in all great works of church-building in the north, unsuitable and un- couth. There was also a chateau as well, a great Mansart affair with an overpowering dome. Practically this remains to-day, but, like all else in the town, it is but a promise of greater things which were expected to materialize, but never did. At the bottom of a little valley, in a fertile Azay-le-Rideau, Usse, and Chinon 263 plain, lies Fontevrault, or what there is left of it, for the old abbey is now nothing more than a matter-of-fact " maison de detention " for criminals. The abbey of yesterday is the prison of to-day. Fontevranlt is an enigma ; it is, furthermore, what the French themselves call a '' triste et maussade hourg." Its former magnificent abbey was one of the few shrines of its class which was respected by the Revolution, but now it has become a prison which shelters something like a thousand unfortunates. For centuries the old abbey had royal prin- cesses for abbesses and was one of the most celebrated religious houses in all France. It is a sad degeneration that has befallen this famous establishment. In the eleventh century an illustrious man of God, a Breton priest, named Robert d'Ar- brissel, outlined the foundation of the abbey and gathered together a community of monks. He died in the midst of his labours, in 1117, and was succeeded by the Abbess Petronille de Chemille. For nearly six hundred years the abbey — which comprised a convent for men and an- other for women — grew and prospered, di- rected, not infrequently, by an abbess of the 264 Old Touraine and the Loire Country blood royal. It has been claimed that, as a re- ligious establishment for men and women, ruled over by a woman, the abbey of Fontevrault was unique in Christendom. It is an ample structure with a church tower of bistre which forms a most pleasing note of colour in the landscape. The basilica was begun in 1101, and consecrated by Pope Calix- tus II. in 1119. Its interior showed a deep vaulting, with graceful and hardy arches sup- ported by massive columns with quaint and curiously sculptured capitals. The twelfth-century cloister was indeed a masterwork among those examples, all too rare, existing to-day. Its arcade is severely elegant and was rebuilt by the Abbess Eenee de Bourbon, sister of Frangois I., after the best of decorative Renaissance of that day. The chapter-house, now used by the director of the prison, has in a remarkable manner retained the mural frescoes of a former day. There are depicted a series of groups of mystical and real personages in a most curious fashion. The re- fectory is still much in its primitive state, though put to other uses to-day. Its tribune, where the lectrice entertained the sisters during their repasts, is, however, still in its place. The curious, bizarre, kilnlike pyramid, Azay-le-Rideau, Usse, and Chinon 265 Cuisines, Fontevrault 266 Old Touraine and the Loire Country known as the Tour d'Evrault, has ever been an enigma to the archaeologist and antiquarian. Doubtless it formed the kitchens of the estab- lishment, for it looks like nothing else that might have belonged to a great abbey. It has a counterpart at the Abbey of Marmoutier near Tours, and of St. Trinite at Vendome; from which fact there would seem to be little doubt as to its real use, although it looks more like a blast furnace or a distillery chimney. This curious pyramidal structure is like the collegiate church of St. Ours at Loches, one of those bizarre edifices which defy any special architectural classification. At Fontevrault the architect played with his art when he let all the light in this curious " tour " enter by the roof. At the extreme apex of the cone he placed a lantern from which the light of day filtered down the slope of the vaulting in a weird and tomblike manner. It is a most surprising effect, but one that is wholly lost to-day, since the Tour d'Evrault has been turned into the kitchen for the " maison de detention " of which it forms a part. The nave of the church of the old abbey of Fontevrault has been cut in two and a part is now used as the dormitory of the prison, but the choir, the transepts, and the towers remain Azay-le-Rideau, Usse, and Chinon 267 to suggest the simple and beautiful style of their age. In the transepts, behind an iron grille, are buried Henry II., King of England and Count of Anjou, Eleanore of Guienne, Eichard Coeur de Lion, and Isabeau of Angouleme, wife of Jean-sans-Terre. Four polychromatic statues, one in wood, the others in stone, lying at length, represent these four personages so great in English history, and make of Fontevrault a shrine for pilgrims which ought to be far less ignored than it is. The cemetery of kings has been shockingly cared for, and the ludicrous kaleidoscopic decorations of the statues which surmount the royal tombs are nothing less than a sacrilege. It is needless to say they are com- paratively modern. At Bourgueil, near Fontevrault, are gathered great crops of reglisse, or licorice. It differs somewhat in appearance from the licorice roots of one's childhood, but the same qualities exist in it as in the product of Spain or the Levant, whence indeed most of the commercial licorice does come. It is as profitable an in- dustry in this part of France as is the saffron crop of the Gatinais, and whoever imported the first roots was a benefactor. At the juncture of the Vienne and the Loire are two tiny towns 268 Old Touraine and the Loire Country which are noted for two widely different rea- sons. These two towns are Montsoreau and Candes, the former noted for the memory of that bloodthirsty woman who gave a plot to Dumas (and some real facts of history be- sides), and the other noted for its prunes, Candes being the chief centre of the industry which produces the pruneaux de Tours. Descending the Vienne from Chinon, one first comes to Candes, which dominates the conflu- ence of the Vienne with the Loire from its imposing position on the top of a hill. Candes was in other times surrounded by a protecting wall, and there are to-day remains of a chateau which had formerly given shelter to Charles VII. and Louis XL It has, more- over, a twelfth-century church built upon the site of the cell in which died St. Martin in the fourth century. The native of the surround- ing country cares nothing for churches or cha- teaux, but assumes that the prune industry of Candes is the one thing of interest to the vis- itor. Be this as it may, it is indeed a matter of considerable importance to all within a dozen kilometres of the little town. All through the region round about Candes one meets with the Azay-le-Rideau, Usse, and Chinon 269 fruit-pickers, with their great baskets laden with prunes, pears, and apples, to be sent ulti- mately to the great ovens to be desiccated and dried. Fifty years ago, you will be told, the cultivators attended to the curing process them- selves, but now it is in the hands of the middle- man. At Montsoreau much the same economic con- ditions exist as at Candes, but there is vastly more of historic lore hanging about the town. In the fourteenth century, after a shifting ca- reer, the fief passed to the Vicomtes de Cha- teaudun; then, in the century following, to the Chabots and the family of Chambes, of which Jean IV., prominent in the massacre of St. Bartholomew's night, was a member. It was he who assassinated the gallant Bussy d'Am- boise at the near-by Chateau of Coutanciere (at Brain-sur-Allonnes), who had made a ren- dezvous with his wife, since become famous in the pages of Dumas and of history as "La Dame de Montsoreau." To-day the old bourg is practically non-ex- istent, and there is a smugness of prosperity which considerably discounts the former charm that it once must have had. But for all that, there is enough left to enable one to picture 270 Old Touraine and the Loire Country what the life here under the Renaissance must have been. The parish church — that of the ancient Pa- roisse de Eetz — still exists, though in ruins, and there are very substantial remains of an old priory, an old-time dependency of the Abbey of St. Florent, now converted into a farm. Beside the highroad is the fifteenth-century chateau. It has a double fagade, one side of which is ornamented with a series of machi- coulis, great high window-openings, and flank- ing towers ; and, in spite of its generally frown- ing aspect, looks distinctly livable even to-day. The ornamental fa§ade of the courtyard is somewhat crumbled but still elegant, and has incorporated within its walls a most ravishing Renaissance turret, smothered in exquisite moulures and arabesques. On the terminal gal- lery and on the panels which break up the flat- ness of this inner fa§ade are a series of alle- gorical bas-reliefs, representing monkeys, sur- mounted with the inscription, ^'11 le Feray." The interior of this fine edifice is entirely remodelled, and has nothing of its former fit- ments, furnishings, or decorations. Near Port Boulet, almost opposite Candes, is the great farm of a certain M. Gail. Com- munication is had with the Orleans railway by Azay-le-Rideau, Usse, and Chinon 271 means of a traction engine, which draws its own broad- wheeled wagons on the regular high- way between the gare d'hommes and the tall- chimneyed manor or chateau which forms the residence of this enterprising agriculturist. The property consists of nearly two thousand acres, of which at least twelve hundred are under the process of intensive cultivation, and is divided into ten distinct farms, having each an overseer charged directly with the control of his part of the domain. These farms are wonderfully well kept, with sanded roadways like the courtyard of a chateau. There are no trees in the cultivated parts, and the great grain-fields are as the western prairies. The estate bears the generic name of "La Briche." On one side it is bordered by the railroad for a distance of nearly forty kilo- metres, and it gives to that same railway an annual freight traffic of two thousand tons of merchandise, which would be considerably more if all the cattle and sheep sent to other markets were transported by rail. As might be expected, this domain of "La Briche ' ' has given to the neighbouring farmers a lesson and an example, and little by little its influence has resulted in an increased activity 272 Old Touraine and the Loire Country among the neighbouring landholders, who for- merly gave themselves over to " la chasse," and left the conduct of their farms to incom- petent and more or less ignorant hirelings. CHAPTER XIII. ANJOU AND BEETAGNE As one crosses the borderland from Touraine into Anjou, the whole aspect of things changes. It is as if one went from the era of the Renais- sance back again into the days of the Gothic, not only in respect to architecture, but history and many of the conditions of every-day life as well. Most of the characteristics of Anjou are without their like elsewhere, and opulent Anjou of ancient France has to-day a departmental etiquette in many things quite different from that of other sections. A magnificent agricultural province, it has been further enriched by liberal proprietors ; a land of aristocracy and the church, it has ever been to the fore in political and ecclesiastical matters ; and to-day the spirit of industry and progress are nowhere more manifest than here in the ancient province of Anjou. The Loire itself changes its complexion but 273 274 Old Touraine and the Loire Country little, and its entrance into Samnur, like its entrance into Tours, is made between banks that are tinged :with the rainbow colours of the growing vine. What hills there are near by are burrowed, as swallows burrow in a cliff, by the workers of the vineyards, who make in the rock homes similar to those below Saumur, in the Vallee du Vendomois, and at Cinq-Mars near Tours. Anjou has a marked style in architecture, known as Angevin, which few have properly placed in the gamut of architectural styles which run from the Byzantine to the Renais- sance. The Romanesque was being supplanted everywhere when the Angevin style came into being, as a compromise between the heavy, flat-roofed style of the south and the pointed sky-piercing gables of the north. All Europe was attempting to shake off the Romanesque influence, which had lasted until the twelfth century. Germany alone clung to the pure style, and, it is generally thought, improved it. The Angevin builders developed a species that was on the borderland between the Roman- esque and the Grothic, though not by any means a mere transition type. The chief cities of Anjou are not very great Anjou and Bretagne 275 or numerous, Angers itself containing but slightly over fifty thousand souls. Cholet, of thirteen thousand inhabitants, is an important cloth-manufacturing centre, while Saumur car- ries on a great wine trade and was formerly the capital of a '^ petit gouvernement " of its own, and, like many other cities and towns of this and neighbouring provinces, was the scene of great strife during the wars of the Ven- dee. In ancient times the Andecavi, as the old peoples of the province were known, shared with the Turonii of Touraine the honour of being the foremost peoples of western Gaul, though each had special characteristics pecul- iarly their own, as indeed they have to-day. After one passes the junction of the Cher, the Indre, and the Vienne, he notices no great change in the conduct of the Loire itself. It still flows in and out among the banks of sand and those little round pebbles known all along its course, nonchalantly and slowly, though now and then one fancies that he notes a greater eddy or current than he had observed before. At Saumur it is still more impressed upon one, while at the Fonts de Ce — a great strategic spot in days gone by — there is evidence that at one time or another the Loire must be a 276 Old Touraine and the Loire Country raging torrent; and such it does become peri- odically, only travellers never seem to see it when it is in this condition. When Candes and Montsoreau are passed and one comes under the frowning walls of Saumur's grim citadel, a sort of provincial Bastille in its awesomeness, he realizes for the first time that there is, somewhere below, an outlet to the sea. He cannot smell the salt- laden breezes at this great distance, but the general appearance of things gives that impres- sion. From Tours to Saumur by the right bank of the Loire — one of the most superb stretches of automobile roadway in the world — lay the road of which Madame de Sevigne wrote in '' Lettre CCXXIV. " (to her mother), which begins: ^' Nous arrivons ici, nous avons quittS Tours ce matin." It was a good day's journey for those times, whether by malle-post or the private conveyance which, likely enough, Madame de Sevigne used at the time (1630). To-day it is a mere morsel to the hungry road- devouring maw of a twentieth-century auto- mobile. It's almost worth the labour of mak- ing the journey on foot to know the charms of this delightful river-bank bordered with his- toric shrines almost without number, and peo- Chateau de Saumur Anjou and Bretagne 277 pled by a class of peasants as picturesque and gay as the Neapolitan of romance. '^ Saumur est, ma foi! une jolie ville," said a traveller one day at a table d'hote at Tours. And so indeed it is. Its quays and its squares lend an air of gaiety to its proud old hotel de ville and its grim chateau. Old habitations, commodious modern houses, frowning machi- colations, church spires, grand hotels, innu- merable cafes, and much military, all combine in a blend of fascinating interest that one usu- ally finds only in a great metropolis. The chief attraction is unquestionably the old chateau. To-day it stands, as it has always stood, high above the Quai de Limoges, with scarce a scar on its hardy walls and never a crumbling stone on its parapet. The great structure was begun in the elev- enth century, replacing an earlier monument known as the Tour du Tronc. It was com- pleted in the century following and rebuilt or remodelled in the sixteenth. Outside of its impressive exterior there is little of interest to remind one of another day. To literary pilgrims Saumur suggests the homestead of the father of Eugenie Grandet, and the hon-vivant reveres it for its soft pleas- ant wines. Others worship it for its wonders 278 Old Touraine and the Loire Country of architecturGj and yet others fall in love with it because of its altogether delightful situation. Below Saumur are the cliff-dwellers, who burrow high in the chalk cliff and stow them- selves away from light and damp like bottles of old wine. The custom is old and not in- digenous to France, but here it is sufficiently in evidence to be remarked by even the traveller by train. Here, too, one sees the most remark- able of all the coijfes which are worn by any of the women along the Loire. This Angevin variety, like Angevin architecture, is like none of its neighbours north, east, south, or west. Students of history will revere Saumur for something more than its artistic aspect or its wines, for it was a favourite residence of the Angevin princes and the English kings, as well as being the capital of the pape des Huguenots. While Nantes is the real metropolis of the Loire, and Angers is singularly up-to-date and well laid out, neither of these fine cities have a great thoroughfare to compare with the broad, straight street of Saumur, which leads from the Gare d 'Orleans on the left bank and crosses the two bridges which span the branches of the Loire, to say nothing of the island be- tween, and finally merges into the great na- tional highway which runs south into Poitou. Anjou and Bretagne 279 Fine houses, many, if not most of them, dat- ing from centuries ago, line the principal streets of the town, which, when one has actu- ally entered its confines, presents the appear- ance of being too vast and ample for its pop- ulation. And, in truth, so it really is. Its pop- ulation barely reaches fifteen thousand souls, whereas it would seem to have the grandeur and appointments of a city of a hundred thou- sand. The revocation of the Edict of Nantes cut its inhabitants down to the extent of twenty or twenty-five thousand, and it has never recov- ered from the blow. In the neighbourhood of Saumur, for a con- siderable distance up and down the Loire, the hills are excavated into dwelling-houses and wine-caves, producing a most curious aspect. One continuous line of these cliff villages — like nothing so much as the habitations of the cliff-dwelling Indians of America — extends from the juncture of the Vienne with the Loire nearly up to the Fonts de Ce. The most curious effect of it all is the multi- tude of openings of doorways and windows and the uprising of chimney-pots through the chalk and turf which form the roof-tops of these settlements. In many of these caves are prepared the 280 Old Touraine and the Loire Country famous vin mousseux of Saumur, of which the greater part is sold as champagne to an unsuspecting and indifferent public, not by the growers or makers, but by unscrupulous mid- dlemen. Saumur, like Angers, is fortunate in its cli- mate, to which is due a great part of the pros- perity of the town, for the ^' Rome of the Huguenots ' ' is more prosperous — and who shall not say more contents — than it ever was in the days of religious or feudal war- fare. Near Saumur is one shrine neglected by Eng- lish pilgrims which might well be included in their itineraries. In the Chateau de Moraines at Dampierre died Margaret of Anjou and Lan- caster, Queen of England, as one reads on a tablet erected at the gateway of this dainty '' petit castel a tour et creneaux." Manoir de la Vignole - Souzay autrefois Dampierre Asile et derniere demure de I'heroine de la guerre des deux roses Marguerite d'Anjou de Lancastre, reine d'Angleterre La plus malheureuse des reines, des Espouses, et des mferes Qui Morut le 25 Aout 1482 Ag^e de 53 Ans. Anjou and Bretagne 281 The Salvus Murus of the ancients became the Saumur of to-day in the year 948, when the monk Absalom built a monastery here and sur- rounded it with a protecting wall. Up to the thirteenth century the city belonged to the ' ' Angevin kings of Angleterre, ' ' as the French historians proudly claim them. The city passed finally to the Kings of France, and to them remained constantly faith- ful. Under Henri IV. the city was governed by Duplessis-Mornay, the " pape des Hugue- nots/' becoming practically the metropolis of Protestantism. Up to this time the chief archi- tectural monument was the chateau, which was commenced in the eleventh century and which through the next five centuries had been ag- grandized and rebuilt into its present shape. The church of Notre Dame de Nantilly dates from the twelfth century and was frequently visited by Louis XI. The oratory formerly made use of by this monarch to-day contains the baptismal fonts. One of the columns of the nave has graven upon it the epitaph com- posed by King Eene of Anjou for his foster- mother. Dame Thiephanie. Throughout, the church is beautifully decorated. The Hotel de Ville may well be called the chief artistic treasure of Saumur, as the cha- 282 Old Touraine and the Loire Country teau is its chief historical monument. It is a delightful ensemble of the best of late Gothic, dating from the sixteenth century, flanked on its fagade by turrets crowned with machicoulis, and lighted by a series of elegant windows a croisillons. Above all is a gracious campa- nile, in its way as fine as the belfry of Bruges, to which, from a really artistic standpoint, rhapsodists have given rather more than its due. The interior is as elaborate and pleasing as is the outside. In the Salle des Mariages and Salle du Conseil are fine fifteenth-century chim- neypieces, such as are only found in their per- fection on the Loire. The library, of some- thing over twenty thousand volumes, many of them in manuscript, is formed in great part from the magnificent collection formerly at the abbeys of Fontevrault and St. Florent. Doubt- less these old tomes contain a wealth of mate- rial from which some future historian will per- haps construct a new theory of the universe. This in truth may not be literally so, but it is a fact that there is a vast amount of contem- porary historical information, with regard to the world in general, which is as yet unearthed, as witness the case of Pompeii alone, where the- Anjou and Bretagne 283 area of the discoveries forms but a small part of the entire buried city. At Saumur numerous prehistoric and gallo- romain remains are continually being added to the museum, which is also in the Hotel de Ville. A recent acquisition — discovered in a neighbouring vineyard — is a Roman ^' trom- pette," as it is designated, and a more or less complete outfit of tools, obviously those of a carpenter. The notorious Madame de Montespan — '' the illustrious penitent," though the former description answers better — stopped here, in a house adjoining the Church of St. John, to- day a maison de retrait, on her way to visit her sister, the abbess, at Fontevrault. From Saumur to Angers the Loire passes an almost continuous series of historical guide- posts, some in ruins, but many more as proudly environed as ever. At Treves-Cunault is a dignified Romanesque church which would add to the fame of a more popular and better known town. It is not a grand structure, but it is perfect of its kind, with its crenelated fa§ade and its sturdy ar- caded towers curiously placed midway on the north wall. Here one first becomes acquainted with men- 284 Old Touraine and the Loire Country Mrs and dolmens, examples of whicli are to be found in the neighbourhood, not so remark- able as those of Brittany, but still of the same family. The Fonts de Ce follow next, still in the midst of vine-land, and finally appear the twin spires of Angers 's unique Cathedral of St. Maurice. Here one realizes, if not before, that he is in Anjou; no more is the atmosphere transpar- ent as in Touraine, but something of the grime of the commercial struggle for life is over all. Here the Maine joins the Loire, at a little village called La Pointe : ' ' the Charenton of Angers, ' ' it was called by a Paris-loving boule- vardier who once wandered afield. Much has been written, and much might yet be written, about the famous Ponts de Ce, which span the Loire and its branches for a distance considerably over three kilometres. This an- cient bridge or bridges (which, with that at Blois, were at one time, the only bridges across the Loire below Orleans) formerly consisted of 109 arches, but the reconstruction of the mid-nineteenth century reduced these to a bare score. As a vantage-point in warfare the Ponts de Ce were ever in contention, the Gauls, the Eo- mans, the Franks, the Normans, and the Eng- Anjou and Bretagne 285 lish successively taking possession and defend- ing them against their opponents. The Fonts de Ce is a weirdly strange and historic town which has lost none of its importance in a later day, though the famous ponts are now remade, and their antique arches replaced by more solid, if less picturesque piers and piling. They span the shallow flow of the Loire water for three- quarters of a league and produce a homogene- ous effect of antiquity, coupled with the city's three churches and its chateau overlooking the fortified isle in mid-river, which looks as though it had not changed since the days when Marie de Medici looked upon it, as recalled by the great Rubens painting in the Louvre. Since the beginning of the history of these parts, bat- tles almost without number have taken place here, as was natural on a spot so strategically important. There is a tale of the Vendean wars, con- nected with the '' Eoche-de-Murs " at the Ponts de Ce, to the effect that a battalion, left here to guard any attack from across the river, was captured by the Vendeans. Many of the '' Bleus " refused to surrender, and threw themselves into the river beneath their feet. Among these was the wife of an oflScer, to whom the Vendeans offered life if she surren- 286 Old Touraine and the Loire Country dered. This was refused, and precipitately, with her child, she threw herself into the flood beneath. On the largest isle, that lying between the Louet and the Loire, is one vast garden or orchard of cherry-trees, which produce a pecul- iarly juicy cherry from which large quantities of guignolet, a sort of " cherry brandy," is made. The Angevins will tell you that this was a well-known refreshment in the middle ages, and was first made by one of those monkish orders who were so successful in concocting the subtle liquors of the commerce of to-day. It is with real regret that one parts from the Fonts de Ce, with La Fontaine's couplet on his lips : " . . . Ce n'est pas petite gloire Que d'etre pont sur la Loire. Some one has said that the provinces find nothing to envy in Faris as far as the trans- formation of their cities is concerned. This, to a certain extent, is so, not only in respect to the modernizing of such grand cities as Lyons, Marseilles, or Lille, but in respect to such smaller cities as Nantes and Angers, where the improvements, if not on so magnificent a scale, are at least as momentous to their immediate environment. Anjou and Bretagne 287 For the most part these second and third class cities are to-day transformed in exceed- ingly good taste, and, though many a noble monument has in the past been sacrificed, to- day the authorities are proceeding more care- fully. Angers, in spite of its overpowering chateau and its unique cathedral, is of a modernity and luxuriousness in its present-day aspect which is all the more remarkable because of the con- trast. Formerly the Angevin capital, from the days of King John up to a much later time Angers had the reputation of being a town '' plus sombre et plus maussade " than any other in the French provinces. In Shake- speare's '^ King John " one reads of '' black Angers," and so indeed is its aspect to-day, for its roof-tops are of slate, while many of the houses are built of that material entirely. In the olden time many of its streets were cut in the slaty rock, leaving its sombre surface bare to the light of day. One sees evidences of all this in the massive walls of the great black- banded castle of Angers, and, altogether, this magpie colouring is one of the chief charac- teristics of this grandly historic town. Both the new and the old town sit proudly on a height crowned by the two slim spires of the 288 Old Touraine and the Loire Country cathedral. In front, the gentle curves of the river Maine enfold the old houses at the base of the hillside and lap the very walls of the grim fortress-chateau itself, or did in the days when the Counts of Anjou held sway, though to-day the river has somewhat receded. Beyond the ancient ramparts, up the hill, have been erected the " quartiers neufs/' with houses all admirably planned and laid out, with gardens forming a veritable girdle, as did the retaining walls of other days which surrounded the old chateau and its faubourg. To-day Angers shares with Nantes the title of metrop- olis of the west, and the Loire flows on its ample way between the two in a far more imposing manner than elsewhere in its course from source to sea. Angers does not lie exactly at the juncture of the Maine and Loire, but a little way above, but it has always been considered as one of the chief Loire cities; and probably many of its visitors do not realize that it is not on the Loire itself. The marvellous fairy-book chateau of An- gers, with its fourteen black-striped towers, is just as it was when built by St. Louis, save that its chess-board towers lack, in most cases, their coiffes, and all vestiges have disappeared of Chateau d' Angers Anjou and Bretagne 289 the charpente which formerly topped them off. Beyond the rocky formation of the banks of the Loire, which crop out below the juncture of the Maine and the Loire, below Angers, are Savennieres and La Possoniere, whence come the most famous vintages of Anjou, which, to the wines of these parts, are what Chateau Margaux and Chateau Yquem are to the Borde- lais, and the Clos Vougeot is to the Bourgui- gnons. The peninsula formed by the Loire and the Maine at Angers is the richest agricultural region in all France, the nurseries and the kitchen-gardens having made the fortune of this little corner of Anjou. Angers is the headquarters for nursery-gar- den stock for the open air, as Orleans is for ornamental and woodland trees and shrubs. The trade in living plants and shrubs has grown to very great proportions since 1848, when an agent went out from here on behalf of the leading house in the trade and visited America for the purpose of searching out for- eign plants and fruits which could be made to thrive on French soil. Both the soil and climate are very favourable for the cultivation of many hitherto unknown 290 Old Touraine and the Loire Country fruits, the neighbourhood of the sea, which, not far distant, is tempered by the Gulf Stream, having given to Anjou a lukewarm humidity and a temperature of a remarkable equality. Some of the nurseries of these parts are enormous establishments, the Maison Andre Leroy, for example, covering an extent of some six hundred acres. A catalogue of one of these establishments, located in the suburbs of An- gers, enumerates over four hundred species of pear-trees, six hundred varieties of apple-trees, one hundred and fifty varieties of plums, four hundred and seventy-five of grapes, fifteen hun- dred of roses, and two hundred and nineteen of rhododendrons. Each night, or as often as fifty railway wag- ons are loaded^ trains are despatched from the gare at Angers for all parts. When the choux- fleurs are finished, then come the petits pois, and then the artichauts and other legumes in favour with the Paris bon-vivants. Near Angers is one of those Csesar's camps which were spread thickly up and down Gaul and Britain alike. One reaches it by road from Angers, and, until it dawns upon one that the vast triangle, one of whose equilateral sides is formed by the Loire, another by the Maine, and the third by a ridge of land stretching be- Anjou and Bretagne 291 tween the two, covers about fourteen kilometres square, it seems much like any other neck or peninsula of land lying between two rivers. One hundred thousand of the Koman legion camped here at one time, which is not so very wonderful until it is recalled that they lived for months on the resources of this compara- tively restricted area. Before coming to Nantes, Ancenis and Oudon should claim the attention of the traveller, though each is not much more than a typically interesting small town of France, in spite of the memories of the past. Ancenis has an ancient chateau, remodelled and added to in the nineteenth century, which possesses some remarkably important con- structive details, the chief of which are a great tower-flanked doorway and the corps de logis, each the work of an Angevin architect, Jean de Lespine, in the sixteenth century. Within the walls of this chateau Francois II., Due de Bre- tagne, and Louis XI. signed one of the treaties which finally led up to the union of the Duche de Bretagne with the Crown of France. Oudon possesses a fine example of a mediae- val donjon, though it has been restored in our day. One does not usually connect Brittany with 292 Old Touraine and the Loire Country the Loire except so far as to recollect that Nantes was a former political and social cap- ital. As a matter of fact, however, a very con- siderable proportion of Brittany belongs to the Loire country. Anjou of the counts and kings and Bretagne of the dukes and duchesses embrace the whole of the Loire valley below Saumur, although the river-bed of the Loire formed no actual bound- ary. Anjou extended nearly as far to the south- ward as it did to the north of the vine-clad banks, and Bretagne, too, had possession of a vast tract south of Nantes, known as the Pays de Eetz, which bordered upon the Vendee of Poitou. All the world knows, or should know, that Nantes and St. Nazaire form one of the great ports of the world, not by any means so great as New York, London, or Hamburg, nor yet as great as Antwerp, Bordeaux, or Marseilles, but still a magnificent port which plays a most important part with the affairs of France and the outside world. Nantes, la Brette, is tranquil and solid, with the life of the laborious bourgeois always in the foreground. It is of Bretagne, to which prov- ince it anciently belonged, only so far as it forms the bridge between the Vendee and the 1 Anjou and Bretagne 293 old duchy ; literally between two opposing feu- dal lords and masters, both of whom were hard to please. The memoirs of this corner of the province of Bretagne of other days are strong in such names as the Duchesse Anne, the monk Abe- lard, the redoubtable Clisson, the infamous Gilles de Ketz, the warrior Lanoue, surnamed *' Bras de Fer," and many others whose names are prominent in history. " Ventre Saint Grisf les Dues de Bretagne n'etaient pas de petits compagnons! " cried Henri Quatre, as he first gazed upon the Cha- teau de Nantes. At that time, in 1598, this for- tress was defended by seven curtains, six tow- ers, bastions and caponieres, all protected by a wide and deep moat, into which poured the rising tide twice with each round of the clock. To-day the aspect of this chateau is no less formidable than of yore, though it has been debased and the moat has disappeared to make room for a roadway and the railroad. It was in the chateau of Nantes, the same whose grim walls still overlook the road by which one reaches the centre of the town from the inconveniently placed station, that Mazarin had Henri de Gondi, Cardinal de Retz and co- adjutor of the Archbishop of Paris, imprisoned 294 Old Touraine and the Loire Country in 1665, because of his offensive partisanship. Fonquet, too, after his splendid downfall, was thrown into the donjon here by Louis XIV. De Gondi recounts in his '' Memoires " how he took advantage of the inattention of his guards and finally evaded them by letting him- self over the side of the Bastion de Mercoeur by means of a rope smuggled into him by his friend^. The feat does not look a very formid- able one to-day, but then, or in any day, it must have been somewhat of an adventure for a portly churchman, and the wonder is that it was performed successfully. At any rate it reads like a real adventure from the pages of Dumas, who himself made a considerable use of Nantes and its chateau in his historical ro- mances. Landais, the minister and favourite of Fran- Qois II. of Bretagne, was arrested here in 1485, in the very chamber of the prince, who de- livered him up with the remark: ^' Faites jus- tice, mais souvenez-vous que vous lui etes re- devahle de voire charge/' There is no end of historical incident con- nected with Nantes 's old fortress-chateau of mediaeval times, and, in one capacity or an- other, it has sheltered many names famous in history, from the Kings of France, from Louis Anjou and Bretagne 295 XII. onward, to Madame de Sevigne and the Duchesse de Berry. Nantes 's Place de la Bouffai (which, to lovers of Dumas will already be an old friend) was formerly the site of a chateau contemporary with that which stands by the waterside. The Chateau de Bouffai was built in 990 by Conan, first Due de Bretagne, and served as an official residence to him and many of his successors. In Nantes 's great but imperfect and unfin- ished Cathedral of St. Pierre one comes upon a relic that lives long in the memory of those who have passed before it : the tomb of Fran- gois II., Due de Bretagne, and Marguerite de Foix. The cathedral itself is no mean archi- tectural work, in spite of its imperfections, as one may judge from the following inscription graven over the sculptured figure of St. Pierre, its patron : " L'an mil quatre cent trente-quatre, A my-avril sans moult rabattre : Au portail de cette ^glise, Fut la premiere pierre assise." Within, the chief attraction is that master- work of Michel Colombe, the before-mentioned tomb, which ranks among the world's art-treas- ures. The beauty of the emblematic figures which flank the tomb proper, the fine chiselling 296 Old Touraine and the Loire Country of the recumbent effigies themselves, and the general ensemble is such that the work is bound to appeal, whatever may be one's opinion of Renaissance sculpture in France. The tomb was brought here from the old Eglise des Carmes, which had been pillaged and burned in the Revolution. The mausoleum was — in its old resting- place — opened in 1727, and a small, heart- shaped, gold box was found, supposed to have contained the heart of the Duchesse Anne. The coffer was surmounted by a royal crown and emblazoned with the order of the Cordeliere, but within was found nothing but a scapulary. On the circlet of the crown was written in relief : " Cueur de vertus orn6 Dignement couronn6. And on the box beneath one read : «< En ce petit vaisseau, de fin or pur et munde, Repose un plus grand cueur que oncque dame eut au monde. Anne fut le nom d'elle, en France deux fois Royne Et ceste parte terrestre en grand deuil nos demure. IX. Janvier M.V.XIII." In one respect only has Nantes suffered through the march of time. Its magnificent Quai de la Fosse has disappeared, a long fa- cade which a hundred or more years ago was Anjou and Bretagne 297 bordered by the palatial dwellings of the great ship-owners of the Nantes of a former genera- tion. The whole, immediately facing the river where formerly swung many ships at anchor, has disappeared entirely to make way for the railway. The islands of the Loire opposite Nantes are an echo of the life of the metropolis itself. The 298 Old Touraine and the Loire Country He Feydeau is monumental, the He Gloriette hustling and nervous with " affaires," and Prairie-au-Duc busy with industries of all sorts. Coueron, below Nantes on the right bank, is sombre with gray walls surrounding its num- berless factories, and chimney-stacks belching forth clouds of dense smoke. Behind are great walls of chalky-white rock crowned with ver- dure. Nearly opposite is the little town of Le Pellerin graciously seated on the river's bank and marking the lower limit of the Loire Nan- taise. Another hill, belonging to the domain of Bois- Tillac and La Martiniere, where was born Fouche, the future Due d'Otranta, comes to view, and the basin of the Loire enlarges into the estuary, and all at once one finds himself in the true ^' Loire Maritime." At Martiniere is the mouth of the Canal Mar- itime a la Loire, which, from Paimbceuf to Le Pellerin, is used by all craft ascending the river to Nantes, drawing more than four metres of water. At the entrance of the Acheneau is the Canal de Buzay, which connects that stream with the more ambitious Loire, and makes of the Lac de Grand Lieu a public domain, instead of a pri- Anjou and Bretagne 299 vate property as claimed by the " marquis " who holds in terror all who would fish or shoot over its waters. All this immediate region formerly belonged to the monks of the ancient Abbey of Buzay, and it was they who originally cut the waterway through to the Loire. About half-way in its length are the ruins of the an- cient monastery, clustered about the tower of its old church. It is a most romantically sad mon- ument, and for that very reason its grouping, on the bank of the busy canal, suggests in a most impressive manner the passing of all great works. The prosperity of Nantes as a deep-sea port is of long standing, but recent improvements have increased all this to a hitherto un- thought-of extent. Progress has been continu- ous, and now Nantes has become, like Eouen, a great deep-water port, one of the important seaports of France, the realization of a hope ever latent in the breast of the Nantais since the days and disasters of the Edict and its revocation. Below Nantes, in the actual '^ Loire Mari- time," the aspect of all things changes and the green and luxuriant banks give way to sand- dunes and flat, marshy stretches, as salty as the sea itself. This gives rise to a very consider- 300 Old Touraine and the Loire Country- able development of the salt industry which at Bourg de Batz is the principal, if not the sole, means of livelihood. St. Nazaire, the real deep-water port of Nantes, dates from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, when it was known as Port Nazaire. It is a progressive and up-to-date seaport of some thirty-five thousand souls, but it has no appeal for the tourist unless he be a lover of great smoky steamships and all the parapher- nalia of longshore life. Pomichet, a " station de tains de mer tres frequentee; " Batz, with its salt-works; Le Croisic, with its curious waterside church, and the old walled town of Guerande bring one to the mouth of the Loire. The rest is the bil- lowy western ocean whose ebb and flow brings fresh breezes and tides to the great cities of the estuary and makes possible that prosperity with which they are so amply endowed. CHAPTER XIV. SOUTH OF THE LOIRE The estuary of the Loire belongs both to Brittany and to the Vendee, though, as a mat- ter-of-fact, the southern bank, opposite Nantes, formed a part of the ancient Pays de Eetz, one of the old seigneuries of Bretagne. It was Henri de Gondi, Cardinal de Eetz, who was the bitter rival of Mazarin. French historians have told us that when the regency under Anne of Austria began, Mazarin, who had been secretary to the terrible Richelieu, was just coming into his power. He was a subtle, insidious Italian, plodding and patient, but false as a spring-time rainbow. Gondi was bold, liberal, and independent, a mover of men and one able to take advantage of any turn of the wind, a statesman, and a great reformer, — or he would have been had he but full power. It was Cromwell who said that De Retz was the only man in Europe who saw through his plansj Gondi had entered the church, but he had no 301 302 Old Touraine and the Loire Country talents for it. His life was free, too free even for the times, it would appear, for, though he was ordained cardinal, it was impossible for him to supplant Mazarin in the good graces of the court. As he himself had said that he preferred to be a great leader of a party rather than a partisan of royalty, he was perhaps not so very greatly disappointed that he was not able to supplant the wily Italian successor of Eichelieu in the favour of the queen regent. Gondi was able to control the parliament, how- ever, and, for a time, it was unable to carry through anything against his will. Mazarin rose to power at last, barricaded the streets of Paris, and decided to exile Gondi — as being the too popular hero of the people. Gondi knew of the edict, but stuck out to the last, saying: '' To-morrow, I, Henri de Gondi, before midday, will be master of Paris." Noon came, and he was master of Paris, but as he was still Archbishop-Coad- jutor of Paris his hands were tied in more ways than one, and the plot for his supremacy over Mazarin, '' the plunderer," fell through. The whole neighbouring region south of the Loire opposite Nantes, the ancient Pays de Eetz, is unfamiliar to tourists in general, and for that reason it has an unexpected if not a South of the Loire 303 superlative charm. It was the bloodiest of the battle-grounds of the Vendean wars, and, though its monumental remains are not as numerous or as imposingly beautiful as those in many other parts, there is an interest about it all which is as undying as is that of the most ornate or magnificent chateau or fortress- peopled land that ever existed. Not a corner of this land but has seen bloody warfare in all its grimness and horror, from the days when Clisson was pillaged by the Normans in the ninth century, to the guerilla warfare of the Vendean republicans in the eighteenth cen- tury. The advent of the railway has changed much of the aspect of this region and brought a twentieth-century civilization up to the very walls of the ruins of Clisson and Maulevrier, the latter one of the many chateaux of this region which were ruined by the wars of Stof- flet, who, at the head of the insurgents, obliged the nobility to follow the peasants in their uprising. Now and then, in these parts, one comes upon a short length of railway line not unlike that at which our forefathers marvelled. The line may be of narrow gauge or it may not, but almost invariably the two or three so-called carriages are constructed in the style (or lack 304 Old Touraine and the Loire Country of style) of the old stage-coach, and they roll along in much the same lumbering fashion. The locomotive itself is a thing to be wondered at. It is a pigmy in size, but it makes the commotion of a modern decapod, or one of those great flyers which pull the Southern Ex- press on the main line via Poitiers and Angou- leme, not fifty kilometres away. There is a little tract of land lying just south of the Loire below Angers which is known as " le Bocage Vendeen." One leaves the Loire at Chalonnes and, by a series of gentle inclines, reaches the plateau where sits the town of Cholet, the very centre of the region, and a town whose almost only industry is the manu- facture of pocket-handkerchiefs. The aspect of the Loire has changed rapidly and given way to a more vigorous and varied topography; but, for all that, Cholet and the surrounding country depend entirely upon the great towns of the Loire for their intercourse with the still greater markets beyond. Like Angers, Cholet and all the neighbouring vil- lages are slate-roofed, with only an occasional red tile to give variety to the otherwise gray and sombre outlook. En route from Chalonnes one passes Che- mille almost the only market-town of any size South of the Loire 305 in the district. It is very curious, with its Eomanesque church and its old houses distrib- uted around an amphitheatre, like the loges in an opera-house. This is the very centre of the Bocage, where, in Revolutionary times, the Republican armies so frequently fought with the bands of Vendean fanatics. The houses of Cholet are well built, but al- ways with that grayness and sadness of tone which does not contribute to either brilliancy of aspect or gaiety of disposition. Save the grand street which traverses the town from east to west, the streets are narrow and uncom- fortable ; but to make up for all this there are hotels and cafes as attractive and as comfort- able as any establishments of the kind to be found in any of the smaller cities of provincial France. The handkerchief industry is very consid- erable, no less than six great establishments devoting themselves to the manufacture. Cholet is one of the greatest cattle markets, if not the greatest, in the land. The farmers of the surrounding country buy bceufs maigres in the southwest and centre of France and transform them into good fat cattle which in every way rival what is known in England as 306 Old Touraine and the Loire Country '' best English." This is accomplished cheaply and readily by feeding them with cabbage stalks. On Saturdays, on the Champ de Foire, the aspect is most animated, and any painter who is desirous of emulating Rosa Bonheur's " Horse Fair " (painted at the great cattle market of Bernay, in Normandy) cannot find a better vantage-ground than here, for one may see gathered together nearly all the cattle types of Poitou, the Vendee, Anjou, Bas Maine, and of Bretagne Nantaise. In earlier days Cholet was far more sad than it is to-day; but there remain practically no souvenirs of its past. The wars of the Vendee left, it is said, but three houses standing when the riot and bloodshed was over. Two of the greatest battles of this furious struggle were fought here. On the site of the present railroad station Kleber and Moreau fought the royalists, and the heroic Bonchamps received the wound of which he died at St. Florent, just after he had put into execution the order of release for five thousand Eepublican prisoners. This was on the 17th October, 1793. Five months later Stofflet possessed himself of the town and burned it nearly to the ground. Not much is Donjon oj the Chateau de Clisson South of the Loire 3G7 left to remind one of these eventful times, save the public garden, which was built on the site of the old chateau. La Moine, a tiny and most picturesque river, still flows under the antique arches of the old bridge, which was held in turn by the Vendeans and the Republicans. To the west of Cholet runs another line of railway, direct through the heart of the Sevre- Nantaise, one of those petits pays whose old- time identity is now all but lost, even more cele- brated in bloody annals than is that region lying to the eastward. Here was a country entirely sacked and impoverished. Mortagne was completely ruined, though it has yet left substantial remains of its fourteenth and fif- teenth century chateau. Torfou was the scene of a bloody encounter between the Vendean hordes and Kleber's two thousand Mroiques de Mayence. The able Vendean chiefs who opposed him, Bonchamps, D'Elbee, and Les- cure, captured his artillery and massacred all the wounded. At the extremity of this line was the strong- hold of Clisson, which itself finally succumbed, but later gave birth to a new town to take the place of that which perished in the Vendean convulsion. 308 Old Touraine and the Loire Country Throughout this region, in the valleys of the Moine and the Sevre-Nantaise, the rocks and the verdure and the admirable, though ill pre- served, ruins, all combine to produce as un- worldly an atmosphere as it is possible to con- ceive within a short half-hundred kilometres of the busy world-port of Nantes and the great commercial city of Angers. One continually meets with ruins that recall the frightful strug- gle of Revolutionary times; hence the impres- sion that one gets from a ramble through or about this region is well-nigh unique in all France. The coast southward, nearly to La Rochelle, is a vast series of shallow gulfs and salt marshes which form weirdly wonderful out- looks for the painter who inclines to vast ex- panses of sea and sky. Pornic is a remarkably picturesque little sea- side village, where the inflowing and outflowing tides of the Bay of Biscay temper the southern sun and make of it — or would make of it if the tide of fashion had but set that way — a watering-place of the first rank. It is an entrancing bit of coast-line which extends for a matter of fifty kilometres south of the juncture of the Loire with the ocean, with an aspect at times severe with a waste South of the Loire 309 of sand, and again gracious with verdure and tree-clad and rocky shores. The great Bay of Bourgneuf and its enfold- ing peninsula of Noirmoutier form an artist's sketching-ground that is not yet overrun with mere dabblers in paint and pencil, and is ac- cordingly charming. The Bay of Bourgneuf has most of the char- acteristics of the Morbihan, without that sever- ity and sternness which impress one so deeply when on the shores of the great Breton inland sea. The little town of Bourgneuf -en-Retz, with its little port of Colletis, is by no means a city of any artistic worth; indeed it is nearly bare of most of those things which attract travel- lers who are lovers of old or historic shrines; but it is a delightful stopping-place for all that, provided one does not want to go farther afield, to the very tip of the Vendean '' land's end " at Noirmoutier across the bay. Three times a day a steamer makes the jour- ney to the little island town which is a favour- ite place of pilgrimage for the Nantais during the summer months. Once it was not even an island, but a peninsula, and not so very long ago either. The alluvial deposits of the Loire made it in the first place, and the sea, back- 310 Old Touraine and the Loire Country ing in from the north, made a strait which just barely separates it to-day from the mainland. On this out-of-the-way little island there are still some remains of prehistoric monuments, the dolmen of Chiron-Tardiveau, the menhirs of Pinaizeaux and Pierre-Levee, and some others. In the speech of the inhabitants the isle is known as Noirmoutier, a contraction of " Nigrum Monasterium/' a name derived from the monastery founded here in the seventh cen- tury by St. Philibert. In the town is an old chateau, the ancient fortress-refuge of the Abbe of Her. It is a great square structure flanked at the angles with little towers, of which two are roofed, one uncovered, and the fourth surmounted by a heliograph for communicating with the He de Yeu and the Pointe de Chenoulin. The view from the heights of these chateau towers is fascinating beyond compare, particularly at sundown on a summer's evening, when the golden rays of the sinking sun burnish the coast of the Vendee and cast lingering shadows from the roof-tops and walls of the town below. To the northwest one sees the Hot du Pilier, with its lighthouse and its tiny coast-guard fortress ; to the north is clearly seen Pornic and the neighbouring coasts of the Pays de Eetz and of South of the Loire 311 Bouin with its encircling dikes, — all reminis- cent of a little Holland. To the south is the narrow neck of Fromentin, the jagged Mar- guerites, which lift their fangs wholly above the surface of the sea only at low water, and the towering cliifs of the lie de Yeu, which rise above the mists. Just south of the Loire, between Nantes and Bourgneuf, is the Lac de Grand-Lieu, in con- nection with which one may hear a new render- ing of an old legend. At one time, it is said, it was bordered by a city, whose inhabitants, for their vices, brought down the vengeance of heaven upon them, even though they cried out to the powers on high to avert the threatened flood which rose up out of the lake and over- flowed the banks and swallowed the city and all evidences of its past. In this last lies the flaw in the legend; but, like the history of Sodom, of the Ville d'Ys in Bretagne, and of Ars in Dauphine, tradition has kept it alive. This wicked place of the Loire valley was called Herbauge or Herhadilla, and, from St. Philibert at the southern extremity of the lake, one looks out to-day on a considerable extent of shallow water, which is as murderous-look- ing and as uncanny as a swamp of the Ever- glades. 312 Old Touraine and the Loire Country From the central basin flow two tiny rivers, the Ognon and the Boulogne, which are charm- ing enough in their way, as also is the route by highroad from Nantes, but the gray monot- onous lake, across which the wind whistles in a veritable tempest for more than six months of the year, is most depressing. There are various hamlets, with some pre- tence at advanced civilization about them, scat- tered around the borders of the lake, St. Leger, St. Mars, St. Aignan, St. Lumine, Bouaye, and La Chevroliere; but in the whole number you will not get a daily paper that is less than forty-eight hours old, and nothing but the most stale news of happenings in the outside world ever dribbles through. St. Philibert is the metropolis of these parts, and it has no com- petitors for the honour. At the entrance of the Ognon is the little village of Pas say, built at the foot of a low cliff which dominates all this part of the lake. It is a picturesque little village of low houses and red roofs, with a little sandy beach in the foreground, through which little rivulets of soft water trickle and go to make up the greater body. CHAPTER XV. BERRY AND GEORGE SAND's COUNTRY Whether one enters Berry through the val- ley of the Cher or the Indre or through the gateway of Sancerre in the mid-Loire, the im- pression is much the same. The his- toric province of Berry resounds again and again with the echoes of its past, and no province adjacent to the Loire is more prolific in the things that in- terest the curious, and none is so lit- tle known as the old province which was purchased for the Crown by Philippe I. in 1101. With the interior of the province, that por- 313 314 Old Touraine and the Loire Country tion which lies away from the river valleys, this book has little to do, though the traveller through the region would hardly omit the epis- copal city of Bourges, and its great transept- less cathedral, with its glorious front of quin- tupled portals. With the cathedral may well be coupled that other great architectural monu- ment, the Maison de Jacques Coeur. At Paris one is asked, " Avez-vous vu le Louvre? " but at Bourges it is always, " Etes-vous alle a Jacques CoBur? '' even before one is asked if he has seen the cathedral. From the hill which overlooks Sancerre, and forms a foundation for the still existing tower of the chateau belonging to the feudal Counts of Sancerre, one gets one of the most wonder- fully wide-spread views in all the Loire valley. The height and its feudal tower stand isolated, like a rock rising from the ocean. From Cosne and beyond, on the north, to La Charite, on the south, is one vast panorama of vineyard, wheat- field, and luxuriant river-bottom. At a lesser distance, on the right bank, is the line of the railroad which threads its way like a serpent around the bends of the river and its banks. Below the hill of Sancerre is a huge over- grown hamlet — and yet not large enough to Berry and George Sand's Country 315 be called a village — surrounding a most curi- ous church (St. Satur), without either nave or apse. The old Abbey of St. Satur once possessed all the lands in the neighbourhood that were not in the actual possession of the Counts of Sancerre, and was a power in the land, as were most of the abbeys throughout France. The church was begun in 1360-70, on a most elaborate plan, so extensive in fact (almost approaching that great work at La Charite) that it has for ever remained uncom- pleted. The history of this little churchly suburb of Sancerre has been most interesting. The great Benedictine church was never fin- ished and has since come to be somewhat of a ruin. In 1419 the English sacked the abbey and stole its treasure to the very last precious stone or piece of gold. A dozen flatboats were anchored or moored to the banks of the river facing the abbey, and the monks were trans- ported thither and held for a ransom of a thou- sand crowns each. As everything had already been taken by their captors, the monks vainly protested that they had no valuables with which to meet the demand, and accordingly they were bound hand and foot and thrown into the river, to the number of fifty-two, eight only escaping with their lives. A bloody memory indeed for 316 Old Touraine and the Loire Country a fair land which now blossoms with poppies and roses. Sancerre, in spite of the etymology of its name (which comes down from Roman times — Sacrum Csesari), is of feudal origin. Its for- tress, and the Comte as well, were under the suzerainty of the Counts of Champagne, and it was the stronghold and refuge of many a band of guerilla warriors, adventurers, and marauding thieves. At the end of the twelfth century a certain Comte de Sancerre, at the head of a coterie of bandits called Brabagons, marched upon Bourges and invaded the city, killing all who crossed their path, and firing all isolated dwell- ings and many even in the heart of the city. Sancerre was many times besieged, the most memorable event of this nature being the at- tack of the royalists in 1573 against the Frondeurs who were shut up in the town. The defenders were without artillery, but so habit- uated were they to the use of the fronde that for eight months they were able to hold the city against the foe. From this the fronde came to be known as the '' arquebuse de San- cerre." Sancerre is to-day a ruined town, its streets unequal and tortuous, all up and down hill and Berry and George Sand's Country 317 La Tour- J" 5 O-nearre Jja Tour, Sancerre 318 Old Touraine and the Loire Country blindly rambling off into culs-de-sac which lead nowhere. Above it all is the fine chateau, built in a modern day after the Renaissance manner, of Mile, de Crussol, proudly seated on the very crest of the hill. Within the grounds, the only part of the domain which is free to the public, are the ruins of the famous citadel which was bought by St. Louis, in 1226, from the Comte Thibaut. The only portion of this feudal stronghold which remains to-day is known as the ' ' Tour des Fiefs. " One may enter the grounds and, in the com- pany of a concierge, ascend to the platform of this lone tower, whence a wonderful view of the broad " ruhan lumineux " of the Loire spreads itself out as if fluttering in the wind, northward and southward, as far as the eye can reach. Beside it one sees another line of blue water, as if it were a strand detached from the broader band. This is the Canal Lateral de la Loire, one of those inland waterways of France which add so much to the prosperity of the land. Above Sancerre is Gien, another gateway to Berry, through which the traveller from Paris through the Orleannais is bound to pass. At a distance of five kilometres or more, coming from the north, one sees the towers of Chateau de Gien Berry and George Sand's Country 319 the chateau of Gien piercing the horizon. The chateau is a most curious affair, with its chain- built blocks of stone, and its red and black — or nearly black — brique, crossed and recrossed in quaint geometrical designs. It was built in 1494 for Dame Anne de Beaujeau, who was regent of the kingdom immediately after the death of Charles VIII. This building replaced another of a century before, built by Jean- sans-Peur, where was celebrated the marriage of his daughter with the Comte de Guise. Gien's chateau, too, may be said to be a land- mark on Jeanne d 'Arc's route to martyrdom and fame, for here she made her supplication to Charles VII. to march on Reims. In Charle- magnian times this old castle had a predeces- sor, which, however, was more a fortress than a habitable chateau; but all remains of this had apparently disappeared before the later structure made its appearance. Louis XIV. and Anne of Austria, regent, held a fugitive, impoverished court in this chateau, and heard with fear and trembling the cannon-shots of the armies of Turenne and Conde at Bleneau, j5ve leagues distant. At Nevers or at La Charite one does not get the view of the Loire that he would like, for, in one case, the waterway is masked by a row 320 Old Touraine and the Loire Country of houses, and in the other by a series of walled gardens; but at Gien, where everything is splendidly theatrical, there is a tree-bordered quay and innumerable examples of those co- quettish little houses of brick which are not beautiful, but which set off many a French riverside landscape as nothing else will. In Gien's main street there are a multitude of rare mellowed old houses with sculptured fronts and high gables. This street twists and turns until it reaches the old stone and brick chateau, with its harmoniously coloured walls, making a veritable symphony of colour. Each turn in this old high-street of Gien gives a new vista of medisevalism quite surprising and eerielike, as fantastic as the weird pictures of Dore. Gien and its neighbour Briare are chiefly noted commercially for their pottery. Gien makes crockery ware, and Briare inundates the entire world with those little porcelain buttons which one buys in every land. Crossing the Sologne and entering Berry from the capital of the Orleannais, or coming out from Tours by the valley of the Cher, one comes upon the little visited and out-of-the- way chateau of Valengay, in the charming dainty valley of the Nahon. Berry and George Sand's Country 321 There is some reason for its comparative neglect by the tourist, for it is on a cross-coun- try railway line which demands quite a full day of one's time to get there from Tours and get away again to the next centre of attraction, and if one comes by the way of the Orleannais, he must be prepared to give at least three days to the surrounding region. This is the gateway to George Sand's coun- try, but few English-speaking tourists ever get here, so it may be safely called unknown. It is marvellous how France abounds in these little corners all but unknown to strangers, even though they lie not far off the beaten track. The spirit of exploration and travel in unknown parts, except the Arctic regions, Thibet, and the Australian desert, seems to be dying out. The chateau of Valen§ay was formerly in- habited by Talleyrand, after he had quitted the bishopric of Autun for politics. It is seated proudly upon a vast terrace overlooking one of the most charming bits of the valley of the Nahon, and is of a thoroughly typical Renais- sance type, built by the great Philibert Delorme for Jacques d'Etampes in 1540, and only ac- quired by the minister of Napoleon and Louis XVIII. in 1805. 322 Old Touraine and the Loire Country The architect, in spite of the imposing situ- ation, is not seen at his best here, for in no way does it compare with his masterwork at Anet, or the Tuileries. The expert recognizes also the hands of two other architects, one of the Blaisois and the other of Anjou, who in some measure transformed the edifice in the reign of ^f^rangois I. The enormous donjon, — if it is a donjon, — with its great, round corner tower with a dome above, which looks like nothing so much as an observatory, is perhaps the outgTOwth of an earlier accessory, but on the whole the edifice is fully typical of the Renaissance. The court unites the two widely different terminations in a fashion more or less ap- proaching symmetry, but it is only as a whole that the effect is highly pleasing. Beyond a balustrade a jour is the Jardin de la Duchesse, communicating with the park by a graceful bridge over an ornamental water. In general the apartments are furnished in the style of the First Empire, an epoch memorable in the annals of Valengay. By the orders of Napoleon many royalties and ambassadors here received hospitality, and in 1808-14 it became a gilded cage — or a ' ' golden prison, ' ' as the French have it — for Chateau de Valencay Berry and George Sand's Country 323 the Prince of the Asturias, afterward Ferdi- nand VII. of Spain, who consoled himself dur- ing his captivity by constructing wolf -traps in the garden and planting cauliflowers in the great urns and vases with which the terrace was set out. There is a great portrait gallery here, where is gathered a collection of portraits in minia- ture of all the sovereigns who treated with Talleyrand during his ministerial reign, among others one of the Sultan Selim, painted from life, but in secret, since the reproduction of the human form is forbidden by the Koran. In the Maison de Charite, in the town, be- neath the pavement of the chapel, is found the tomb of the family of Talleyrand, where are interred the remains of Talleyrand and of Marie Therese Poniatowska, sister of the cele- brated King of Poland who served in the French army in 1806. In this chapel also is a rare treasure in the form of a chalice en- riched with precious stones, originally belong- ing to Pope Pius VI., the gift of the Princess Poniatowska. The Pavilion de la Garenne, — what in Eng- land would be called a ' ' shooting-box, " — a rendezvous for the chase, built by Talleyrand, 324 Old Touraine and the Loire Country is some distance from the cMteau on the edge of the delightful little Foret de Gatine. Varennes, just above Valengay, is thought by the average traveller through the long gallery of charms in the chateau country to be wholly unworthy of his attention. As a matter of fact, it does not possess much of historical or artis- tic interest, though its fine old church dates from the twelfth century. Ascending the Cher from its juncture with the Loire, one passes a number of interesting places. St. Aignan, with its magnificent Gothic and Eenaissance chateau ; Selles ; Romorantin, a dead little spot, dear as much for its sleepi- ness as anything else; Vierzon, a rich, indus- trial town where they make locomotives, auto- mobiles, and mechanical hay-rakes, copying the most approved American models; and Mehun- sur-Yevre, all follow in rapid succession. Mehun-sur-Yevre, which to most is only a name and to many not even that, is possessed of two architectural monuments, a grand ruin of a Gothic fortress of the time of Charles VII. and a feudal gateway of two great rounded cone-roofed towers, bound by a ligature through which a port-cullis formerly slid up and down like an act-drop in a theatre. Wonderfully impressive all this, and the 3t^3Y -tUa-nUj\3lf^ % \SQU53^B^'^' 324 Old Touraine and the Loire Country is some distance from tlie chateau on tlie edge of the delightful little Foret de Gatine. Varennes, just above ValenQay, is thought by the average traveller through the long gallery of charms in the chateau coiintry to be wholly unworthy of his attention. As a matter of fact, it does not possess much of historical or artis- tic interest, though its fine old church dates from the twelfth century. Ascending the Cher from its juncture with the Loire, one passes a number of interesting places. St. Aignan, with its magnificent Gothic and Eenaissance chateau ; Selles ; Romorantin, a deaS^mmf£^%k"SiW^^^''%r its sleepi- ness as anything else; Vierzon, a rich, indus- trig,! town where they make locomotives, auti; mobiles, and mechanical hay-rakes, copying the most approved American models ; and Mehun- sur-Yevre, all follow in rapid succession. Mehun-stir-Yevre, which to most is only a name and to many not even that, is possessed of two architectural monuments, a grand ruin of a Gothic fortress of the time of Charles VII. and a feudal gateway of two great rounded cone-roofed towers, bound by a ligature through which a port-cullis formerly slid up and down like an act-drop in a theatre. Wonderfully impressive all this, and the Berry and George Sandys Country 325 Le. Ca.rrlor Dore Jio nxoranttn. B-Mcrt^. ... 1 9 o y Le Carrior Dore, Romorantin 326 Old Touraine and the Loire Country more so because these magnificent relics of other days are unspoiled and unrestored. Charles VII. was by no means constant in his devotions, it will be recalled, though he seems to have been seriously enamoured of Agnes Sorel — at any rate while she lived. Afterward he speedily surrounded himself with a galaxy of '' belles demoiselles vetues comme reines." They followed him everywhere, and he spent all but his last sou upon them, as did some of his successors. One day Charles VII. took refuge in the strong towers of the chateau of Mehun-sur- Yevre, which he himself had built and which he had frequently made his residence. Here he died miserable and alone, — it is said by history, of hunger. Thus another dark chapter in the history of kings and queens was brought to a close. If one has the time and so desires, he may follow the Indre, the next confluent of the Loire south of the Cher, from Loches to '* George Sand's country," as literary pilgrims will like to think of the pleasant valleys of the ancient province of Berry. The history of the province before and since Philippe I. united it with the Crown of France was vivid enough to make it fairly well known. Berry and George Sandys Country 327 but on the whole it has been very little trav- elled. It is essentially a pastoral region, and, remembering George Sand and her works, one has refreshing memories of the idyls of its prairies and the beautiful valleys of the Indre and the Cher, which join their waters with the Loire near Tours. If one would love Berry as one loves a greater and more famous haunt of a famous author, and would prepare in advance for the pleasure to be received from threading its high- ways and byways, he should read those '' petits chefs-d'oeuvre of sentiment and rustic poesy, the romances of George Sand. If he has done this, he will iind almost at every turning some long familiar spot or a peasant who seems already an old friend. Chateauroux is the real gateway to the coun- try of George Sand. Nohant is the native place of the great authoress, Madame Dudevant, whom the world best knows as George Sand; a little by-corner of the great busy world, loved by all who know it. Far out in the open country is the little station at which one alights if he comes by rail. Opposite is a '^ petite route " which leads di- rectly to the banks of the Indre, where it joins the highway to La Chatre. 328 Old Touraine and the Loire Country Nohant itself, as a dainty old-world village, is divine. Has not George Sand expressed her love of it as fervidly as did Marie Antoinette for the Trianon? The French call it a '^ bon et Jionnete petit village herrichon." Nude of artifice, it is deliciously unspoiled. A delight- ful old church, with a curious wooden porch and a parvise as rural as could possibly be, not even a cobblestone detracting from its rus- tic beauty, is the principal thing which strikes one's eye as he enters the village. Chickens and geese wander about, picking here and there on the very steps of the church, and no one says them nay. The house of George Sand is just to the right of the church, within whose grounds one sees also the pavilion known to her as the " theatre des marionettes/' In a corner of the poetic little cemetery at Nohant, one sees among the humble crosses emerging from the midst of the verdure, all weather-beaten and moss-grown, a plain, sim- ple stone, green with mossy dampness, which marks the spot where reposes all that was mortal of George Sand. Here, in the midst of this land which she so loved, she still lives in the memory of all; at the house of the well- lettered for her abounding talent — second only Berry and George Sand's Country 329 to that of Balzac — and in the homes of the peasants for her generous fellowship. Through her ancestry she could and did claim relationship with Charles X. and Louis XVIII. ; but her life among her people had nought of pretence in it. She was born among the roses and to the sound of music, and she lies buried amid all the rusticity and simple charm of what may well be called the greenwood of her native land. CHAPTER XVI. THE UPPER LOIRE The gateway to the upper valley may be said to be through the Nivernais, and the capi- tal city of the old province, at the juncture of the AUier and the Loire. After leaving Gien and Briare, the Loire passes through quite the most truly picturesque landscape of its whole course, the great height of Sancerre dominating the view for thirty miles or more in any direction. Cosne is the first of the towns of note of the Nivernais, and is a gay little bourg of eight or nine thousand souls who live much the same life that their grandfathers lived before them. As a place of residence it might prove dull to the outsider, but as a house of call for the wearied and famished traveller, Cosne, with its charming situation, its tree-bordered quays, and its Hotel du Grand Cerf, is most attractive. Pouilly-sur-Loire is next, with three thou- 330 The Upper Loire 331 Eglise S. Aignan, Cosne 332 Old Touraine and the Loire Country sand or more inhabitants wholly devoted to wine-growing, Pouilly being to the upper river what Vouvray is to Touraine. It is not a tour- ist point in any sense, nor is it very picturesque or attractive. Some one has said that the pleasure of con- templation is never so great as when one views a noble monument, a great work of art, or a charming French town for the first time. Never was it more true indeed than of the two dissimilar towns of the upper Loire, Nevers, and La Charite-sur-Loire. The old towers of La Charite rise up in the sunlight and give that touch to the view which marks it at once as of the Nivernais, which all archae- ologists tell one is Italian and not French, in motive as well as sentiment. It is remarkable, perhaps, that the name La Charite is so seldom met with in the accounts of English travellers in France, for in France it is invariably considered to be one of the most picturesque and famous spots in all mid- France. It is an unprogressive, sleepy old place, with streets mostly unpaved, whose five thousand odd souls, known roundabout as Les Caritates, live apparently in the past. Below, a stone's throw from the windows of Pouilly-sur-Loire The Upper Loire 333 your inn, lies the Loire, its broad, blue bosom scarcely ruffled, except where it slowly eddies around the piers of the two-century-old dos d'ane bridge; a lovely old structure, built, it is recorded, by the regiment known as the ** E/oyal Marine " in the early years of the eighteenth century. The town is terraced upon the very edge of the river, with views up and down which are unusually lovely for even these parts. Below, almost within sight, is Nevers, while above are the heights of Sancerre, still visible in the glow- ing western twilight. Beyond the bridge rises a giant column of blackened stone, festooned by four ranges of arcades, the sole remaining relic of the ancient church standing alone before the present struc- ture which now serves the purposes of the church in La Charite. The walls which surrounded the ancient town have disappeared or have been built into house walls, but the effect is still of a self-contained old burg. In the fourteenth century, during the Hun- dred Years' War, the town was frequently be- sieged. In 1429 Jeanne d'Arc, coming from her success at St. Pierre-le-Moutier, here met with practically a defeat, as she was able to 334 Old Touraine and the Loire Country sustain the siege for only but a month, when she withdrew. La Charite played an important part in the religious wars of the sixteenth century, and Protestants and Catholics became its occupants in turn. Virtually La Charite-sur-Loire be- came a Protestant stronghold in spite of its Catholic foundation. In 1577 it bade defiance to the royal arms of the Due d'Alen§on, as is recounted by the fol= lowing lines ; " Ou allez - vous, h^las ! f urieux insens§s Cherchant de Charit6 la proie et la ruine, Qui sans rombre de Foy abbatre la pensez 9 Le canon ne pent rien contre la Charity, Plus tot vous d^truira la peste et la famine, Car jamais sans Foy n'aurez la Charity." In spite of this defiance it capitulated, and, on the 15th of May, at the chateau of Ples- sis-les-Tours on the Loire, Henri III. cele- brated the victory of his brother by a fete ^' ultra-galante,'* where, in place of the usual pages, there were employed '' des dames ves- tues en habits d'hommes. ..." Surely a fan- tastic and immodest manner of celebrating a victory against religious opponents; but, like many of the customs of the time, the fete was simply a fanatical debauch. Porte dii Croux, Nevers The Upper Loire 335 At Nevers one meets the Canal du Nivernais, which recalls Dandet 's ' ' La Belle Nivernaise ' * to all readers of fiction, who may accept it with- out question as a true and correct guide to the region, its manners, and customs. The chief characteristic of Nevers is that it is Italian in nearly, if not quite all, its aspects ; its monuments and its history. Its ancient ducal chateau, part of which dates from the feudal epoch, was the abode of the Italian dukes who came in the train of Mazarin, the last of whom was the nephew of the cardinal, '' who himself was French if his speech was not." Nevers has also a charming Gothic cathedral (St. Cyr) with a double Romanesque apse (in itself a curiosity seldom, if ever, seen out of Germany), and, in addition to the cathedral, can boast of St. Etienne, one of the most pre- cious of all the Romanesque churches of France. The old walls at Nevers are not very com- plete, but what remain are wonderfully expres- sive. The Tour Gouguin and the Tour St. Eloi are notable examples, but they are completely overshadowed by the Porte du Croux, which is one of the best examples of the city gates which were so plentiful in the France of an- other day. 336 Old Touraine and the Loire Country Above Nevers, Decize, Bourbon-Lancy, Gilly, and Digoin are mere names which mean noth- ing to the traveller by rail. They are busy towns of central France, where the bustle of their daily lives is of quite a different variety from that of the He de France, of Normandy, or of the Pas de Calais. From Digoin to Eoanne the Loire is followed by the Canal Lateral. Eoanne is a not very pleasing, overgrown town which has become a veritable ville des ouvriers, all of whom are en- gaged in cloth manufacture. Virtually, then, Eoanne is not much more than a guide-post on the route to Le Puy — ' ' the most picturesque place in the world ' ' — and the wonderfully impressive region of the Cevennes and the Vivaris, where shepherds guard their flocks amid the solitudes. Far above Le Puy, in a rocky gorge known as the Gerbier-de-Jonc, near Ste. Eulalie, in the Ardeche, rises the tiny Liger, which is the real source of the mighty Loire, that natural boundary which divides the north from the south and forms what the French geographers call '' la bassin centrale de France." THE END. INDEX Abbeville, 107. Abd-el-Kader, Emir, 165. Abelard, 293. Absalom, 281. Acheneau, The, 298. Adams, John, 124. Alaric, 149. Alcuin, Abbe, 206. Alengon, Dues d', 195, 334. Alengon, Marguerite d', 97» 150, 151-152. AUier, The, 330. Amboise and Its Chateau, 3, 20, 82, 96, 100, 123, 130- 131, 137, 140, 148-169, 172, 181, 186, 194, 249. Amboise, Family of, 118, 120-122. Amboise, Foret d', 169. Amiens, 210. Ancenis and Its Chateau, II, 21-23, 291. Andrelini, Fausto, 66. Anet, Chateau d', 107, 177, 322. Ange, Michel, 208, 249. Angers and Its Chateau, 7, 10-13, 15, 21-23, 40, 84, 275, 278, 280, 283-284, 286- 290, 304, 308. Angouleme, 194, 304. Angouleme, Isabeau d', 267. Angouleme, Jean d', 89. Angouleme, Louise de Sa- voie, Duchesse d' (See Savoie, Louise de). 337 Anjou, 15, 26, 142, 161, 273, 274, 284, 289-290, 292, 306, 322. Anjou, Counts of, 150, 193, 208, 232, 239, 267, 288. Anjou, Foulques Nerra, Comte d' (See Foulques Nerra). Anjou, Margaret of, 280. Anne of Austria, 301-302, 319- Aquitaine, 18, 193. Arbrissel, Robert d', 263. Arc, Jeanne d', 202, 254-256, 258-260. Ardier, Paul, 115. Arques, Chateau d', 9. Aumale, Due d', 165. Aussigny, Thibaut d', 48. Authion, The, 13. Autun, 321. Auvergne, 15. Auvers, 251. Auxerre, 17, 119. Avignon, 51, 260. Azay - le - Rideau and Its Chateau, 10, 63, 140, 226, 238, 240-247. Bacon, 40. Ballon, 2x5. Balue, Cardinal, 194, 196. Balzac, Honore de, 3, 6, 20, 128-129, 137-138, 143, 207- 209, 234, 239, 329. Bardi, Comte de, 108. 338 Index Barre, De la, 144, 240. Barry, Madame du, 169, 215. Beaudoin, Jean, 200. Beaufort, A., 138. Beaugency and Its Cha- teau, 9, 41, 48-53- Beau]eau, Anne de, 319, Beaulieu, 201-202. Beauregard, Chateau de, 114-116. Beauvron, The, 114. Becket, 190. Belier, Guillaume, 258. Bellanger, Stanislas, 135. Bellay Family, Du, 5, 128, 234- Belleau, Remy, 128. Beringhem, Henri de, 245. Bernay, 306. Bernier, 57. Berry, 7, 15, 56, 123, 313- 314, 318, 320, 326-329. Berry, Counts of, 150. Berry, Duchesse de, 295. Berthelot, Gilles, 244, 246. Berthier, Marechal, 108. Beuvron, 87-88. Biencourt, Marquis de, 246. Blacas, Comte de, 247. Blaisois, The, 52, 54, 56-84, 102, 123-124, 136, 148, 193. 322. Bleneau, 319. Blesois, The {See Blaisois, The). Blois and Its Chateau, 3, 9, II, 20, 40, 52-54, 56-84, 88, 94-95, 98, 100, 107, IIO- 112, 116-117, 119, 123, 125- 126, 136, 139, 149, 156, 160, 164, 167, 174, 184, 186, 194, 260, 284. Blois, Comtes de, 57-59, 62, 84, 87, 98, 118. Blois, Foret de, 54. Blondel, 99. Bocage, The, 304-305. Bohier, Thomas, 174, 182, 184-186. Bois-Tillac, 298. Bolingbroke, 42, 183, Bonchamps, 306-307. Bonheur, Rosa, 306. Bonneventure, Chateau de, 250. Bontemps, Pierre, 105. Bordeaux, 133, 171, 203, 292. Bordeaux, Due de, 108. Bossehosuf, Abbe, 233. Bouaye, 312. Bouin, 311. Boulogne, The, 312. Bourbon, Cardinal de, 164. Bourbon, Renee de, 264. Bourbon-Lancy, 336. Bourbonnais, 15. Bourdaisiere, Chateau de la, 169. Bourg de Batz, 300. Bourges, 15, 314, 316. Bourgneuf-en-Retz, 309, 311. Bourgogne, 4, 15, 142. Bourgueil, 267. Bourre, Jean, 233. Boyer, 11 1. Bracieux, no. Brain-sur-Allonnes, 269. Brantome, loi, 155, 157, 158. Brenne, 135. Bretagne, 15, 26, 3S-36, 57, 192, 218, 284, 291-293, 301. Bretagne, Anne de, 63, 97, 120, 168, 196, 209, 234, 236-238, 293, 296. Bretagne, Conan, Due de, 295- Bretagne, Frangois II., Due de, 291, 294-296. Breze, Pierre de, 195. Briare, 320, 330. Brigonnet, Cardinal, 42. Brinvilliers, 144. Index 339 Brittany {See Bretagne). Broglie, Princesse de, 120. Brosse, Pierre de, 234. Bruges, 282. Brunyer, Abel, 80, 81. Buffon, 61, 183. Bullion, 1 19. Bussy d'Amboise, De, 269. Buzay, Abbey of, 299. Byron, 138. Ccesar, 18, 290. Cahors, 260. Call, M., 270-272. Cain, 251. Calixtus II., 264. Canal de Brest a Nantes, 24. Canal de Buzay, 298. Canal d'Orleans, 36-37. Canal du Nivernaise, 17, 335- Canal Lateral, 12, 17, 318, 336. Canal Maritime, 298. Candes, 268-270, 276. Castellane Family, 250. Caumont, De, 195. Cellini, 152. Chalonnes, 24, 304. Chambord and Its Chateau, 2-3> 20, Z2, 79, 82, 84, 86, 94-110, 123, 139, 174, 186, 243, 247-248. Chambord, Comte de, 109. Chambris, 10. Champagne, Counts of, 316. Champeigne, 135. Champtoce, 24. Chanteloup, 154, 169. Charlemagne, 206. Charles I. (the Bald), 18, 193- Charles II. of England, 82. Charles V., Emperor, 130- 131, 15s, 194- Charles VI., 257. Charles VII., 150, 188-189, 194-195, 202, 2ZZ, 250, 254- 256, 257-260, 268, 319, 324, 326. Charles VIII., 45, 98, 130, 150, 165, 194-195, 234, 236, 238-239, 319. Charles IX., 107, 122, 180. Charles X., 329. Charles Martel, 5. Charles the Bold of Bur- gundy, 44. Chartres, 22, 133. Chartreuse du Liget, 190. Chateaubriand, Comtesse de, loi, 130. Chateau Chevigne, 22. Chateau de la Fontaine, 43. Chateau de la Source, 42- 43- Chateaudun and Its Castle, 21-22. Chateaudun, Vicomtes de, 269. Chateau Gaillard, 259. Chateau I'Epinay, 22. Chateauneuf - sur - Loire, 36, 84. Chateauroux, 327. Chateau Serrand, 22. Chatillon, 12, 17, 19. Chatillon, Cardinal de, 160. Chatillon, Comtes de, 61, 68. Chaumont and Its Cha- teau, II, 20, 107, no, 116-126, 140. Chaumont, Charles de, 120. Chaumont, Donatien Le Ray de, 123-125. Chemille, 304-305. Chemille, Petronille de, 263. Chenonceaux and Its Cha- teau, 10, 63, 107, 118, 140, 148, 165, 169, 171-187, 234, 243, 247, 251. Cher, The, 10, 21, 91, 171- 173, 177-178, 180, 183, 191, 215, 275, 313, 320, 324, 326-327. 340 Index Chevalier, Abbe, 243. Cheverny and Its Chateau, 82, 110-114, 133- Cheverny, Philippe Hu- rault, Comte de, iii. Chicot, 201. Chinon and Its Chateaux, 10, 92, 140, 171, 193, 202, 239, 241, 247, 250-261, 268. Chinon, Foret de, 241, 247. Chiron-Tardiveau, 310. Choiseul, Due de, 164, 169. Cholet, 275, 304-307- Cholet, Comte de, 115. Cinq-Mars and Its Ruins, 7, 21, 137, 220, 227-232, 238, 274. Cinq-Mars, Henri, Marquis de, 228, 229-231, 234. Cinq-Mars, Marquise de, 230, 231. Claude of France, 72, 80, 97, 155- Clement, Jacques, 78. Clermont-Ferrand, 15. Clery, 32, 41, 44-46, 214. Clisson and Its Chateau, 8, 303, 307- Clisson, 293. Clopinel, Jehan (See Jean de Meung). Clouet, 112. Clevis, 43, 149, 253. Coeuvres, 170. Coligny, 160-161. Colletis, 309. Colombe, Michel, 207-208, 295- . Commines, De, 45. Conde, Prince de, 119, 160- 161, 168, 319. Conti, Princesse de, 234. Cormeri, Citizen, 215. Cormery, 133. Cosne, 18, 314, 330. Cosson, The, 2, 97-98, loi. Coteau de Guignes, 52. Coueron, 298. Coulanges, M. de, 18. Coulmiers, 40. Cour-Cheverny, no, 114, 133- Cousin, Jean, 105.^ Coutanciere, Chateau of, 269. Coxe, Miss, 125. Crequy, Marquise de, 183. Croix de Monteuse, 16. Cromwell, 301. Crussol, Mile, de, 318. Dalahaide, 77. Dampierre, 280. Dante, 203. Danton, 144. Daudet, 17, 335. Decize, 336. Delavigne, Casimir, 34. Delorme, Marion, 230-231. Delorme, Philibert, 321. Deneux, Mile., 215. Descartes, 3, 208. Digoin, 336. Dijon, 15. Dino, Due de, 115. Dive, The, 13. Domfront, Chateau de, 9. Dore, 207, 320. Duban, 73. Ducos, Roger, 164-165. Dudevant, Madame (See Sand, George). Duguesclin, 49. Dumas, 3, 6, 47, 82, 201, 268-269, 294-295. Dunois, The, 56. Dupin, M. and Mme., 183, 187. Duplessis-Mornay, 281. Eckmiihl, Prince, 42. E-fHats Family, D' (See Cinq-Mars) . Elbee, D', 307. Index 341 Eleanor of Portugal, 155. Bleanore of Guienne, 267. Embrun, 44, 45. Epernon, Due d', 194. Este, Cardinal d', 180. Estrees, Gabrielle d', 164, 169-170. Btampes, Duehesse d', loi, 130-131, 155- Etampes, Jaeques d', 321. Etretat, 251. Eure et Loir, Department of, 35. Falaise, Chateau de, 9. Ferdinand VII. of Spain 323- Finistere, 35. Flaubert, 6. Foix, Marguerite de, 295- 296. Folie-Siffait, 26. Fontainebleau, 97. Fontaine des Sables Mou- vants, 52. Fontenelle, 183. Fontenoy, 107. Fontevrault, Abbey of, 3, 263-267, 282. Force, Piganiol de la, 106. Forez, Plain of, 17. Fouche, 298. Foulques Nerra, 93, 201, 232, 234. Foulques V., 238. Fouquet, 164, 294. Frangois I., 60-64, 69-70, 72- 73, 75, 89, 94-99, loi, 104- 107, 109, 114, 118, 130, 148, 151-156, 171-172, 174-176, 189-190, 194, 196-197, 200, 244-245, 264, 322. Frangois II., 156-162, 168, 181, 215. Franklin, Benjamin, 123- 124, 125. Freiburg, 22. Fromentin, 311, Galles, Prince de, 49. Gaston of Orleans, 59-60, 62, 68-70, 79-82. Gatanais, The, 36. Gatine, Foret de, 324. George IV., 169. Gerbier-de-Jonc, 16, 336. Gien and Its Chateau, 8, 18, 19, 202, 318-320, 330. Gilly, 33^- Giverny, 251. Gondi, Henri de, 293-294, 301-302. Goujon, Jean, 105, 179, 244. Gregory of Tours, 57. Grise-Gonelle, Geoffroy, 195. Grottoes of Ste. Rade- gonde, 218. Guerande, 300. Guise, Henri, Due de (Le Balafre), 67, 69-70, 73-78, 157, 160, 162, 164, 168, 180, 234. Haute Loire, Department of, II. Henri II., 69, 99, 107, 109, 115, 156, 158, 171-172, 174-177, 183-184, 197, 200. Henn III., 69-70, 73, 75-78, 182, 195, 201, 334. Henri IV. {de Navarre), 78, 164, 170, 201, 281, 293. Henry II. of England, 190, 208, 238, 257-258, 267. Henry VIII. of England, 107. Holbein, 152. Hugo, Victor, 37. Huismes, 250. Hurault, Philippe, 11 1, 112. He de Yeu, 310-311. He Feydeau, 298. He Gloriette, 298. He St. Jean, 149. Hot du Pilier, 310. 342 Index Indre, The, lo, 21, 191-192, 240, 243-244, 247, 275, 313, 326-327. Indre et Loire, Departe- ment d', 142. Jahel, Miss, 125. James V. of Scotland, 157. James, Henry, 14, 189, 204, 251. Jargeau, 2,^. Jean de Meung, 46-47. Jean-sans-Peur, 319. Jean-sans-Terre, 193, 267. Jeanne d'Arc, 33-35, 38, 49. 319, 333- Jeanne of France, 209. John, King, 287. Joue, 215. Juvenet, 34. Kleber, 306, 307. La Beauce, 38, 41, 53, 87, 141. " La Briche," 270-272. Lac de Grand Lieu, 298- 299, 311-312. Lac d'Issarles, 16. La Chapelle, 43. La Charite, 17-18, 314-315. 319, 332-334- La Chatre, 327. La Chevroliere, 312. Lafayette, Madame de, 109. La Fontaine, 128, 286. La Martiniere, 298. La Motte, 87-88. Landais, 294. Landes, Houdon des, 137. Langeais and Its Chateau, 7, 21, 82, 133, 140, 165, 174, 224, 232-241, 247. Languedoc, 15. Lanoue, 293. Lanterne de Rochecorbon, 220. La Pointe, 13, 22-23, 284. La Possoniere, 289. Largay, 10. La Rochelle, 208, 308. Lauzun, 164. Lavedan, 31-32. Layon, The, 13. Le Croisic, 300. Le Havre, 27. Lemaitre, Jules, 34. Lemercier, 261-262. Lenoir, 57. Lenotre, 43. Lepage, 35. Le Pellerin, 298. Le Puy, 4-5, 10, 16, 137, 336. Leray, M., 120. Les Andelys, Chateau de, 9. Lescure, 307. Lespine, Jean de, 291. Liger, The, 336. Lille, 286. Lille, Abbe de, 107. " Limieul, La Demoiselle de" (See Tour, Isabelle de la). Limousin, The, 109. Lisieux, 92. Loches and Its Chateaux, 3, 9-10, 130, 133, 140, 142, 188-202, 250, 266, 326. Loches, Foret de, 190. Loir, The, 13, 21. Loir et Cher, Department of the, 35, 57. Loire, The, i, 3-30, 32, 34- 38, 40-41, 43, 50-51, 53-54, 56, 58, 64-65, 68, 92, 95-97, 101-102, no, 116-118, 120- 122, 124, 129, 133, 134, 137, 140-142, 148-149, 156, 163, 171, 173, 177-178, 191, 196, 208, 215, 220-223, 225, 227-228, 232, 236, 240, 257, 259-260, 267, 273, 275-276, 278-279, 282-286, 288-290, 292-293, 297-302, 304, 308- 309, 311, 313-314, 318-319, Index 343 324, 326-327, 330, 332-334, 336. Loiret, The, 41-43. Loiret, Department of the, 35-36. Lorraine, Cardinal de, 157, 180. Lorraine, Marie de, 157. Lorris, 37. Lorris, Guillaume de, 37, 46. Lot, The, 260. Louet, The, 286. Louis IL {Le Begue), 150. Louis IX. (See St. Louis). Louis XL, 5, 32, 41, 44-46, 48, 69, 130-131, ISO, 154, 194. I9S> 211-212, 214-218, 232-233, 253, 257-258, 268, 281, 291. Louis XIL, 60-61, 64, 66, 83, 97, 120, 122, 151, 167, 194-195, 209, 215, 238, 294. Louis XIIL, 63, 99, 107, 139, 222, 224, 228, 230- 231. Louis XIV., 32, ■ 82-83, 98- 99, 107, 109, III, 164, 215, 227, 232, 245, 247, 294, 319- Louis XV., 54, 84, 107, 164, 169, 215. Louis XVI., 32, 123. Louis XVIII. , 321, 329. Louis Philippe, 165. Louvre, The, 130, 285. Lubin, M., 126. Luynes and Its Chateau, 21, 222-227. Luynes Family, 222, 224, 227, 234. Lyonnais, 15. Lyons, 16, 203, 286. Lyons, Foret de, 87. Madon, 126. Maille, Comte de, 227. Maine, The, 12-13, 21-23, 284, 288-290. Maintenon, Madame de, 109. Malines, yj. Mame et Fils, Alfred, 205. Mansart (elder), 62, 79. Marguerites, The, 311. Marie Antoinette, 328. Marigny, De, 54. Marmoutier, Abbey of, 218- 220, 266. Marques, Family of, 185. Marsay, M. de, 190. Marseilles, 27, 136, 203, 286, 292. Martel, Geoffroy, 253. Maulevrier, Chateau of, 303. Mauves, Plain of, 26. Mayenne, 21. Mayenne, The, 21. Mazarin, 6, 293, 301-302, 335- . Medici, Catherine de, 73-79, 107, 118-119, 122-123, 156- 157. 160-162, 168, 175-182, 184-185. Medici, Marie de, 194, 285. Mehun - sur - Yevre and Its Chateau, 324-326. Mello, Dreux de, 193. Menars and Its Chateau, 53-54- Mer, 52-53. Metz, 40. Meung-sur-Loire, 41, 44, 46- 48. Micy, Abbaye de, 43. Mignard, 112. Moine, The, 307-308. Moliere, 108. Montbazon, 10. Montespan, Madame de, 283. Montesquieu, 183. Montgomery, 158, 175. Montjean, 24. Montlivault, 53. Montmorency, Connetahle de, 174. Montpellier, Castle of, 231. 344 Index Montpensier, Charles de, 154-155- Montrichard and its Don- jon, 9-IO, 91-93- Montsoreau, 268-270, 276. Moraines, Chateau de {See Dampierre). Moreau, 306. Moret, 251. Morrison, 81. Mortagne, 307. Mosnier, 112. Moulins, 15. Muides, 53. Nahon, The, 320-321. Nantes and Its Chateau, 3, 7-8, 12-13, 23, 25-28, 40, 59, 84, 133, 207, 278-279, 286, 288, 291-302, 308, 311- 312. Napoleon I., 83, 138, 164, 321-322. Napoleon III., SS. Napoleon, Louis, 165. Narbonne, 231. Navarre, Marguerite of (See Alengon, Marguerite d'). Nemours, Due de, 157. Nepveu, Pierre, 104. Nevers, 4, 6, 11, 15, 17, 137, 319, 332-333, 335-336. Nini, 125. Nivemais, The, 15, 330, 332. Nohant, 327-329. Noirmoutier, 309-310. Normandy, 85, 92, 306. Ognon, The, 312, Onzain, 116. Orleannais, The, 4, 10, 15, 19, 23, 30-57, 318, 320- 321. Orleans, 7-8, 10-12, 15, 17, 19, 30-35, 37-41, 43, 52, 133, 137, 256, 258, 270, 284, 289. Orleans Family, 63, 65-66, 69, 140, 165, 231, 234 (See also Gaston of Orleans). Orleans, Foret d', 39-40. Oudon, 25-26, 291. Paimboeuf, 298. Paris, 13, 30, 2,3, 42, 79, ii9, 124, 136, 139-140, 229-230, 284, 302, 314. Parme, Due de, 108. Parmentier, 80. Pas de Calais, 192. Passay, 312. Passy-sur-Seine, 124. Pays de Retz, 292, 301-302, 310. Penthievre, Due de, 164. Pepin, 193. Philippe I., 313, 326. Philippe II. {Auguste), 93, 193, 238. PhiUppe III. {Le Hardi), 234- Philippe IV. (Le Bel), 49. Pierrefonds, Chateau of, 186. Pierre-Levee, 310. Pilon, Germain, 105. Pinaizeaux, 310. Pius VI., 323. Plantagenet, Henry (See Henry II. of England). Plantin, Christopher, 205. Plessis, Armand du (See Richelieu, Cardinal ) . . Plessis-les-Tours, 7, 150, 211-218, 334. Pointe de Chenoulin, 310. Poitiers, 304. Poitiers, Diane de, 118, 123, 130, 155, 172, 174-178, 183, 187, 197- Poitou, 278, 292, 306. Pompadour, La, 215. Poniatowska, Marie The- rese, 323. Pont Aven, 251. Index 345 Fonts de Ce, 21-22, 275, 279, 284-286. Pornic, 308, 310. Pornichet, 300. Port Boulet, 270. Pouilly, 18, 330-332. Prairie-au-Duc, 298. Primaticcio, 152. Primatice, 99. Puy-de-D6me, 16. Rabelais, Frangois, 3, 128, 143-144, 239-240, 254-256, 260. Rambouillet, Foret de, 87. Reims, 319. Renaudie, Jean Barri de la, 161. Rene, King, 23, 281. Rennes, 15. Rets, Cardinal de (See Gondi, Henri de). Rets, Gilles de, 24, 293. Rhine, The, 13, 26. Rhone, The, 13, 23, 260. Richard Cceur de Lion, 93, 193, 267. Richelieu, 260-262. Richelieu, Cardinal, 224, 228, 231-232, 260-262, 301-302. Roanne, 12, 16-17, 336. Rochecotte, 250. Rochecotte, Chateau de, 249-250. Romorantin and Its Cha- teau, 85, 88-89, 324. Ronsard, 128, 157, 180, 240. Rouen, 92, 119, 121-122, 203, 221, 299. Rousseau, Jean Jacques, 172, 183-184, 187. Roy, Lucien, 235. Royale, Madame, 109. Rubens, 285. Ruggieri, Cosmo, 78-79, 122-123. Russy, Foret de, 114. Saint Gelais, Guy de, 245. Sancerre and Its Chateaux, 18, 137, 313-318, 330, 333- Sancerre, Counts of, 314- 316. Sand, George, 7, 321, 326- 329- San Juste, Monastery of, 131. Saone, The, 23. Sardini, Scipion, 119. Sarthe, The, 13, 21. Saumur and Its Chateau, 21, 119-120, 142, 171, 221- 222, 259, 274-283, 292. Sausac, Chateau of, 202. S ansae. Seigneur de, 215. Savennieres, 289. Savoie, Louise de, 151. Savoie, Philippe de, 195. Saxe, Maurice de, 107-108. Scott, Sir Walter, 166, 211, 216, 218. Sedan, 40. Seine, The, 4, 13, 25, 36, 121, 221. Selles, 10, 324. Sertio, 100. Sevigne, Madame de, 18, 276, 295. Sforsa, Ludovic, 197. Shenstone, 106. Siegfreid, Jacques, 234. Sologne, The, 38, 52-53, 56, 84-94, 97> loi, no, 148, 320. Sorel, Agnes, 152, 188-189, 194, 196, 201-202, 250, 326. Stael, Madame de, 1 19-120. St. Aignan and Its Chateau, 10, 312, 324. Stanislas of Poland, King, 107-108. St. Ay, 43-44- St. Benoit-sur-Loire, 10, 19. St. Claude, 54. St. Cyr, 215. St. Die, S3. Ste. Eulalie, 336. *v. 346 Index Stendahl, 128. St. Etienne, 5, 16. St. Florent, Abbey of, 282, 306. St. Galmier, 16. St. Georges-sur-Loire, 22. St. Leger, 312. St. Liphard, 48. St. Louis, 37, 193, 288, 318. St. Lumine, 312. St. Mars, 312. St. Martin, 5, 149, 209-211, 218, 220, 253, 268. St. Mesme, 253. St. Mesmin, 41, 43. St. Nazaire, 23, 28, 292, 300. StoMet, 303, 306. St. Ours, 193. St. Philibert, 311-312. St. Philibert, 310. St. Pierre-le-Moutier, 333. St. Rambert, 17. St. Sauveur, 238. Strasburg, 22. St. Symphorien, 218. St. Trinite, Abbey of, 266. Stuart, Mary, 157-162, 168, 181. St. Vallier, Cotnte de, 175, 197. Suevres, 53. Sully, 19. Talleyrand, 250, 321, 323. Tasso, 180. Tavers, 52. Terry, Mr., 187. Texier, 22. Thezee, 10. Thibaut-le-Tricheur, 259. Thibaut III., 253. Thiephanie, Dame, 281. Thouet, The, 13. Thoury, Comtesse, 105. Torfou, 307. Toulouse, 15. Tour, Isabelle de la, 119. Touraine, 1-4, 6-9, 15, 19- 21, 23, 32, 54, 56, 79, 85, 92, 102, 105, 121, 128-148, 161, 164, 169, I72-I73» 176, 183, 204, 215, 220, 229-230, 233-234, 238, 243-244, 246, 251, 260, 273, 275, 284, 332. _ Touraine, Comtes de, 253. Tours, 3, 4, 7, 8, lo-ii, 20- 21, 40, 57, 84, 116-117, 120, 132-133, 137, 148-149, 166, 171-172, 200, 203-211, 215, 221-222, 224-225, 238-239, 246, 253, 266, 274, 276-277, 320-321, 327. Treves- Cunault, 283-284. Turenne, 319. Turner, 12. Usse and Its Chateau, 241, 247-249. ValetiQay and Its Chateau, 320-324. Valentine de Milan, 66. Valentinois, Duchesse de (See Poitiers, Diane de). Vallee du Vendomois, 274. Valois, Marguerite de (sis- ter of Frangois I.) (See Alengon, Marguerite d'). Valois, Marguerite de {de Navarre), 180. Van Eyck, 152. Varennes, 218, 324. Varennes, The, 135. Vasari, 153. Vauban, 247. Vaudemont, Louise de, 182. Vendome, 22, 266. Vendome, Cesar de, 164. Vendomois, The, 56-57. Veron, 135. Versailles, 43, 60, 86, 98, 139, 261. Vibraye, Marquis de, iii. Vienne, The, 10, 21, 251, 259-260, 267-268, 275, 279. Index 347 Vierzon, 84-85, 324. Vigny, Alfred de, 128-129. Villandry, Chateau de, 238. Villaumere, Chateau de la, 250. Villon, Frangois, 48. Vinci, Leonardo da, 59, 72, 100, 152-153, 166, 169, 174. Viollet-le-Duc, 185. Vivarais Mountains, 16. Voltaire, 42, 142, 183. Vorey, il, 16. Vouvray, 222, 332. Yonne, The, 17. Young, Arthur, 86. Zamet, Sebastian, 170. m