B 321 M3 919 opy 1 ctory Edition. 1919 WAR GARDENING and Home Storage of\fegetables Publislied b^r National War Garden Commission Washington, D. C . Copyright 1919 by NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION WAR DEPARTMENT WASHINGTON June 7, 1918. NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION, Washington, d, c. Dear Sirs: The War Department finds much satisfaction in the creation of War Gardens at various army camps by the Conservation and Reclamation Division of the Quartermaster General's office. Food production at these camps has been the subject of some concern with the department. The large areas of tillable land within many of the military reservations have been regarded as offering potential food production on a large scale, and I feel that the army is to be congratulated that the utilization of this space has now taken concrete form. Camp War Gardens will serve more than one useful purpose. The pro- duction of food at the mess door is of great importance in that it not only lessens the army's demand on the usual sources of supply but eliminates transportation as well. To the National War Garden Comm.ission I extend the thanks of the Depart- ment for its quick response to the appeal of the Quartermaster General's office for co-operation. Not confining itself to mere compliance with the letter of the request, the Commission entered fully into its spirit. At a time when funds were not available through Government channels the Commission voluntarily provided seed, fertilizers and equipment which made possible the establishment of a War Garden of 300 acres or more at Camp Dix. For this generous contri- bution and for swift action to overcome the handicap of a late start I take pleasure in making this acknowledgment and in expressing the hope that the Camp Dix War Garden of the National War Garden Commission will prove an unqualified success. Cordially yours, (Signed) NEWTON D. BAKER, Secretary of War. UNITED STATES FOOD ADMINISTRATION Baltimore, Maryland. September 14, 1918. NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION, Maryland Building, Washington, D. C, Gentlemen: We wish to express to you our appreciation of your helpfulness in our war garden, canning and drying work in Maryland during the season of 1918. Your book on canning and drying has been of great value, while the canning outfits which you so kindly gave us made it possible for us to establish canning centers throughout the State, with results of far-reaching importance which could not have been otherwise accomplished. We are equally appreciative of your prompt and willing response to our request for the services of one of your trained investigators to assist in our war garden work. Your spirit of prompt and willing service is cordially appreciated. Yours truly, (Signed) EDWIN G. BAETJER, Federal Food Administrator for Maryland. DtC30 19lB ©ci.A.iij3'i5 !-^ ^ to 2 feet deep, the size of the sash frame to be used. Line the side's of this with boards or planks, brick or concrete, and make a tile drain, or place stones on the bottom of the pit, to carry off surplus water. This pit is to be filled with fresh horse manure. The manure will require special treatment before being placed in the pit. It should be thrown into a pile and allowed to heat. When it has heated and is steaming fork it over into a new pile, throwing the outside material into the center. When the new pile has become well heated fork the material once mo^-e into a new pile. This will require from ten days to two weeks and is important in that it gets rid of excessive heat. After this process fill the pit with the manure, packed down firmly and evenly, level with the surface of the surrounding earth. On top of this manure make a covering of good garden loam 3 or 4 inches deep. When the sash has been put in place the manure will generate heat, in addition to the heat that will be derived from the sun. After this heat has reached its highest point and dropped back to between 80 and 90 degrees F. the seed should be planted. Use the best seed obtainable. Until the seed germinate the hotbed should be kept shaded to hold moisture. This can be done by spreading over the sash strips of old carpet, heavy cloth or newspapers. After germination strong light will be needed. The plants must be watered each morning on clear daj's, and the sash left partially open for ventilation, as it is necessary to dry the foliage to prevent mildew. Proper ventilation is essential to the pro- duction of strong, healthy plants. The sash should be raised during the warmest part of the day on the side opposite the direction from which the Avind is blowing. By opening it in this way instead of facing the wind, the hotbed receives fresh air without receiving direct draft. On cold days raise the sash slightly three or four times a day for a few minutes only. In severe weather cover the beds with mats, straw or manure to keep in as much heat as possible. About two weeks before transplanting time the sash should be removed during the day to "harden" the plants. While in the hotbed the plants should^ be thoroughly watered, but the water should not reach the manure underneath. Early morning is the best time for water- ing, so thiat the plants will be dried before night. An outdoor hotbed of this character should be started in the early spring — February or March. THE COLD FRAME A cold frame is useful for hardening plants which have been started in the hotbed. It is built like a hotbed, but without the pit or manure. It is built on the surface of the ground. Good, rich soil should be used and the soil kept slightly moist. In mild climates the cold frame may be used instead of a hot- bed for starting plants. It is also used in the fall and early winter for growing lettuce, radishes, carrots, parsley, etc. TOOLS Not many implements are required for home gardening. The essentials are a spade or a garden fork, a hoe, a rake with steel teeth, a trowel, a dibble or pointed stick, and a line such as is used by masons, or a piece of common string or cord, to stretch between two stakes for marking off rows. In the case of hard packed earth a pick is useful for dig- ging. For watering, a rubber hose is needed where pipe connections are available. Lack- ing this equipment a watering pot should be provided. A hand cultivator or wheel hoe is useful, especially in a large garden, and saves much time and labor in turning small furrows. With simple attachments it is used for stirring the soil and the removal of weeds. PREPARATION OF SOIL After the frost goes out test the ground by squeezing a handful of it. If it crumbles the soil is ready for spading. If it packs into a mud ball, the ground is still too wet and should not be worked. Spade deeply, 8 to 15 inches, unless this latter depth turns up poor soil and buries the richer soil of the top. Pulverize the dirt deeply with hoe, spade and rake, breaking all clods on the surface. If a lawn roller is available it is useful for crushing clods. All vegetable growth on the surface, such as grass 8 WAR GARDENING or weeds, should be turned under, to rot and enrich the soil. This is especially important with ground that has had a growth of turf. Fig. 4 — Wheel hoe and hand cultivator, to be had with attachments such as plow, cultivator teeth, shovels and rake. A simple form may be made at home. SELECTION OF CROPS The home garden campaign for 1919 should be planned with a view to the production of the largest possible amount of food with the smallest possible outlay of seed and fertilizer. Authorities agree that the seed shortage is the worst the country has ever seen. The supply of fertilizers and natural manures is far below the normal. The demand for these materials is exceedingly great and war-time efficiency makes it vital that war-time conser\'ation be practised in the use of them. To this end gardens should be devoted as far as possible to those crops which are most useful for food and in which the chances of failure are least to be feared. In the selection of vegetables for the home garden preference should be given to the staple crops such as potatoes, beans, tomatoes, corn, onions, and cabbage. Crops of next im- portance, such as peas, carrots, parsnips, beets, squash, greens, turnips, cauliflower, radishes and celery, should be grown if space in the garden permits. Fig. 5 — Simple seed test, using plates and moist blotting paper or cloth. This is extremely useful. Cauliflower, muskmelons, w'atermelons, onions from seed, asparagus and cucumbers are some of the plants that are most difficult to raise and these are not recommended to the amateur gardener. Soils vary so much that serious attention should be given to the crops suited to the individual garden. This is a local question. Consult your local war garden committee's experts as to the best crops for your particular soil. Expert advice will prevent mistakes. In many communities, last year wdtnessed an over-production of some vegetables that had to be used during the growing season. Many gardeners had larger crops of these than they could possibly use. Much waste resulted. To prevent this loss in seed, fer- tilizer, garden space, labor and foodstuflfs every gardener should give especial atten- tion to the selectioa of crops. Plant spar- ingly of those things which must be used as they mature and plant liberally of those things which may be saved for winter use by can- ning, drying or storing. Fig. 6 — Use an envelope for sowing seed. The picture shows seed already sown in some of the rows. PROCURE SEED EARLY Seed shortage was a handicap to many gardeners last year. In 1919 the pfanting of gardens will be increased and the demand for seed even greater than in 1918. It is important, therefore, that the home gardener should procure his supply of seed early — well in advance of planting time. Be sure to patronize a reliable dealer, as quality is vital. Use Seed Sparingly Home gardeners often plant seed thickly to make sure of a good stand. This is a wasteful method, excepting with such vege- tables as will produce young plants which may be used as greens. The better way is to plant according to the directions given in the planting table. The pronounced seed shortage this year makes it imperative that no seed be wasted. Testing Seed A simple test will give useful advance information of the germinating value of seed. This test is useful as enabling the gardener to determine whether or not seed have been properly cured and are otherwise in good condition. Seed which are too old or have been kept under un- favorable conditions are unsatisfactory. THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE HOW MUCH SEED TO BUY The following amounts of seed -vvill plant in each case a garden row 100 feet long. Measure your rows and buy accordingly. Also compare your figures with planting table on page 23. String beans 3 2 to 1 pint Lima beans 3-^ to 1 pint Cabbage ]4 ounce Carrot 1 ounce Cauliflower 1 packet Celery % ounce All squash } 2 ounce Beets 2 ounces Sweet corn } ^ pint Lettuce Jo ounce Muskmelon }2 ounce Cucumber }/i ounce Eggplant K ounce Kale, or Swiss chard }4 ounce Parsley 1^ ounce Parsnip 1^ ounce Vegetable oyster (salsify) ^i. ounce Onion sets (bulbs) ; 1 quart Onion seed 1 ounce Peas 1 to 2 pints Radish 1 ounce Spinachv 1 ounce Tomatoe^\ Ys ounce Turnip. . . y^ ounce 1 or 2 pecks of early potatoes and \2 to 1 bushel of late potatoes are enough to plant to supply four persons. Fig. 7 — A paper band folded into the form of a berry box, without bottom, is a good holder for indoor seed planting. The picture shows Jiow these are placed side by side in a fiat box. To test plant 25 to 50 seed of each variety in an indoor seed box, or place between moist blotters or cloth between two plates. (Fig. 5.) Germination should take place within 2 to 8 days and the number of seedlings which grow will show the percentage of germination. The seedlings should be kept for planting to prevent waste. The standard adopted by the United States Department of Agriculture for seed germination is as follows: Sholxd produce 60 to 80 per cent: Celery, Parsley, Salsify, Eggplant, Parsnip. Should produce 80 to 85 per cent: Asparagus. Okra, Spinach, Carrot, Onion, CauH« flower, Pepper. Should produce 85 to 90 per cent: Corn (sweet), Lettuce, Squash, Cress, Melon, Tomato, Cucumber, Pumpkin. Should produce 90 to 95 per cent: Bean, Mustard, Turnip, Cabbage, Pea, Radish. INDOOR PLANTING Earlier crops can be secured by planting certain seed indoors and setting the young plants out in the open garden after the weather becomes warm. This may be done with tomatoes, cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, peppers, and eggplant. Any wooden box, shallow and wide, will make an indoor garden. Put 1 inch of gravel or cinders in the bottom for drain- age, and fill to the top with good soil. Rows of plants may be two inches apart. Plant 8 or 10 seed to the inch, keep the soil damp, and set the box in a window. When the plants are an inch high trans- plant them to other seed boxes, spacing plants 2 inches apart. This insures sturdy plants with good root systems. Transplanting Before transplanting the plants to the garden set the box outdoors, in mild weather, to harden the plants. Set out each plant with a ball of the box dirt sticking to the roots. Thorough water- ing several hours be- fore transplanting causes the earth to stick as required. If the root system is broken in the re- moval trim away some of the larger leaves of the plants. In moist ground open a hole with trowel or dibble. Make the hole larger than is needed to hold the roots and a little deeper than the roots grew. Place roots in hole, and, Fig. 8 — Transplanting to- mato plant from pot to garden. with the hands, pack the soil firmly around the plant. In dry soil pour a pint of water into each hole before inserting plant. Rake some dry earth about the surface surrounding each plant to hold the moisture. Transplanted plants cannot stand strong sunshine at first and cloudy days or late afternoon are preferable for transplanting. In bright weather place newspapers over them for a day or two, making tents of the papers, in the shape of an inverted V. A homemade paper pot, a round, bottom- less paper band or a berry box, filled with soil 10 WAR GARDENING should be used to produce plants for a hill of cucumbers, squash, melons or other "vining" plants which are started indoors, as these do not stand transplanting if the roots are disturbed. The pot or other holder may be set into the ground without disturbing the roots. Tomatoes, eggplants and beans may also be started in this way. Fig. 9 — Seed box for starting plants indoors. WHEN TO PLANT When heavy frosts are over, plant early peas, onion sets and seed, early potatoes, kale, lettuce and spinach. All of these will stand light freezing except potato plants, which should be covered with dirt when frost threatens. When frosts are about over plant radishes, parsnips, carrots, beets, late peas and early sweet corn, and set out cabbage and cauli- flower plants. (An old and useful rule is to "plant corn when the oak leaves are the size of a squirrel's ear"). When all frosts are over and apple trees are in bud, plant string beans and late sweet corn, and set out a few early tomato plants from the indoor boxes. When apple trees have fin- ished blossoming plant cucum- -v^-~^''^"i. bers, melons, squashes, lima -^,^''^^^ beans and set out the rest of " ^^-^^s the indoor plants. SEED BEDS Plants for second crops may be raised in an outdoor seed bed occupying small space. These plants may be grown while the space allotted to them in the garden plan is still in use for earlier crops. The rows of seed are not spaced so closely as in boxes used inside the house. If the plants crowd each other too much some of them may be re- moved and transplanted to another part of the garden. The seed bed plan is useful foi such crops as cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, late cabbage and the like. FALL PLANTING It is well to plant a fall garden of some crops, for in spite of the risk of injury by earh- frost the chances are in favor of satis- factory results. There can be no absolute rule as to the time of planting. The prob- able time of the first frost in each locality must be taken as a general guide. For planting in August, and possibly even in early September, the following vegetables may be grown: When first frost may be expected between September 15 and September 25: Lettuce, Spinach, Turnips, Parsley, Multiplier Onions and Turnips. (Kale and Radishes may be risked.) When first frost may be expected between September 20 and October 5: Kale, Lettuce, Parsley, Multiplier Onions, Radishes, Spinach and Turnips. Beets and Chard for greens. When first frost may be expected between October 5 and October 15: Beets for canning. Carrots, Kale, Multiplier Onions, Spinach, Chard, Endive, Lettuce, Radishes and Turnips. When first frost may be expected between October 15 and October 25: Any of the vegetables mentioned in the preceding lists. (String beans may be risked.) LAYING OFF ROWS Straight rows add to the garden's beauty and make cultivation easier. To make the rows straight stretch a stout string between stakes and follow it with the point of a hoe, with a wheel hoe, or with the end of the handle of the rake or hoe, to open up the row. The plan is suggested in Fig. 10. Fig. 10 — Straight rows add to the beauty of the garden and are easier to cultivate. The simplest way to lay them off is to stretch a line between two stakes and mark row with a hoe, hoe handle or stick. SUCCESSION OF CROPS Nature generously provides for more than one crop on the same soil. Vegetables which reach maturity earlj^ in the season should be followed by later crops of the same vegetable or by rotation of other kinds. Onions to be used green may be grown in rows which are to be occupied by late tomato plants, as a few of the onions may be removed to plant the tomatoes. Radishes mature early and as they are harA-ested the space may be used for cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 11 and other plants. Many combinations of this kind may be made to good advantage. once a week than to sprinkle every day. Late afternoon is the best time to sprinkle. „JE '- 1 INCH Fig. 11 — Beans planted at proper depth. Fig. 12 — Lima beans, planted properly, with eyes down. FOR CONTINUOUS CROPS With some of the important vegetables a series of plantings is desirable. Of string beans, lettuce, radishes, spinach, sweet corn, peas, beets and carrots there should be several successive plantings, two or three weeks apart, to provide a fresh and continuous supply all season. DEPTH OF PLANTING Do not plant too deeply. The old rule is to plant to a depth of 5 times the thickness of the seed. This, however, is not an absolute rule and is not safe in all cases. Consult planting table on page 23 for depth. HOEING When the green rows ap- pear it is time to start hoeing or cultivating. Never hoe or cultivate deeply — an inch or two is deep enough — but stir the ground frequent- ly, and always after rain or watering, as soon as it is dry enough. The hoeing must not be done after rain or watering when the ground is still so wet as to cause the muddy earth to pack like cement, as this causes the earth to cake and dry out altogether too rapidly, which is undesirable. Frequent hoeing causes the formation of a dust layer which prevents the soil underneath from drying out. The garden should always be kept free from weeds, as these, if permitted to grow, consume plant food and moisture needed by the plants. WATERING A plentiful supply of moisture is essential. If there is not sufficient rainfall the moisture should be provided by watering the garden. In doing this it is better to soak the ground r-0 To moisten the surface is not enough. There mast be a thorough wetting. If pipe connections are available a garden hose is the best means of watering. One of the most satisfactory methods is to open small furrows between rows and allow water to run into these trenches, raking the earth back into place several hours later and making a mulch, after the water has thor- oughly soaked in. The sprinkling pot will serve if hose is not available, but it is more laborious. Overhead sprinklers are very satis- factory. They consist of pipes mounted on supports extending the length of the area to be watered. Holes are drilled at intervals of 3 to 4 feet and small nozzles are inserted which yield a spray-like misty rain when the water is turned on. By turning the pipes and also changing the position of them it is possible to water an area of any size. In home gardens proper drainage is often disregarded. Drainage improves the soil by allowing air to enter; by raising the temperature of the soil; by rendering the tatoes are planted 2 inches nearer soil more porous and granu- -2 -3 -4 -5 LilN, Fir 1< — \ ";inall potato planted whole The depth of pi intniR here shown is apiiroAiniatuly 4^ inches to the center of the potato. This is 'the depth for late potatoes. Early po- surface of ground lar; by enabling the roots of plants to grow deeply into the soil and by allowing earlier cultivation in the spring. Blind ditches, partly filled with stones or other material covered with soil, or open ditches, will be found satisfactory for the home garden. They should be along the lowest level of the garden, and have suitable outlet. Lacking an outlet, lay tile 12 inches below surface of garden, slanting toward a hole 10 feet deep and 5 feet across, in center of garden. Fill this, two thirds to top, with stones, covering stones with clay and covering the clay with loam. 12 WAR GARDENING DIRECTIONS FOR VEGETABLE GROWING POTATOES As one of the staple needs of the household Potatoes are entitled to special attention in Home Gardening and Community Gardening. In selecting for seed it is desirable to choose medium to large, smooth, shallow-eyed potatoes. The best seed will produce the best crop. Potatoes grow best in sandy loam or in a gravel loam. Heavy, sticky clay or loose sand is not desirable soil. Potatoes should not be grown in the same place in the garden in which they were grown the previous year. A rotation of three or four years is desirable. Preparation of the soil should be done with care. The ground should be worked with plow, spade and hoe, to a depth of 8 or 10 inches, and should be thoroughly broken up or pulverized, then thoroughly worked with a steel-toothed rake. This preparation is of great importance and should not be slighted. Attention to details js necessary to success. Treat Seed for Scab One of the most common diseases affecting seed potatoes is scab. This attacks the skin of the potato, causing it to thicken, and giving it a scabby appearance. It is carried through the winter, in soil, in manure and on the po- Fig. 14 — Properly cut seed potatoes. Each piece has two good eyes and is about the size of a hen's egg. tatoes themselves. To control this affection it is important that potatoes should be ro- tated with other crops as to location, and the same soil not used for potatoes except at intervals of three or four years. A simple remedy, easily applied, is to soak the seed potatoes before planting, in a solution of Formalin and water. This solution is made of 1 ounce of Formalin (40 per cent formalde- hyde), mixed in 2 gallons of water. In this mixture soak the uncut potatoes for two hours, and spread them out to dry. The solution can be used on as many lots of potatoes as desired. Seed potatoes should be spread out in a room in which they will be exposed to strong light for two weeks before cutting, to start sprouts and detect poor seed. If large po- tatoes are used cut them into pieces weighing from 1 to 2 ounces, each piece having at least two eyes. If potatoes are scarce and expen- sive the pieces may be cut to a single eye. Do not cut the seed until it is to be planted. Planting For planting, prepare trenches or furrows from 3 to 5 inches deep and from 24 to 36 inches apart. Plant seed pieces 3 inches deep for early potatoes and 5 inches for late varieties. The seed pieces should be 14 to 18 inches apart in rows, the smaller the pieces the closer the planting. Fill the trench with dirt, firming it in order that the moisture may be brought in contact with the seed pieces to assist in the process of germination. Usually potatoes should not be planted as late as the first week in July very far north of the Mason and Dixon line except in sections where it is known that they will mature before freezing weather arrives. Cultivation As soon as the potato plants come up begin cultivating them. The cultivation should begin be- fore they come up if a crust forms. Cultivate or hoe every week during the season, to keep the surface in good condition. When the plants are young work the soil up around them to support the plants. Potatoes are subject to diseases and in- sects which are scheduled on page 21. Take precautions to keep these from getting a start. Follow instructions as to spraying Fig. 15 — On the left is shown tuber sprouted in warm, dark storage place. Such spouts sap vitality and decrease yield. On the right is green sprouted tuber. By this latter method the tuber retains its vitality and a good yield is insured. and keep at it during the season. It is better to spray before trouble appears than to take chances. Dig early potatoes when they are of the size desired. Late potatoes, for storing, should not be dug until the leaves and stems are dead, or until the skin is so firm that it Hiay not easily be rubbed off. THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 13 SWEET POTATOES Sweet potatoes are grown mostly in the Southern States or where there is warm, sandy soil, and are not especially recom- mended for the home garden. If space permits a few plants may be grown. If you wish to grow your own plants start a hotbed about six weeks before apple- blossom time. Place 5 or 6 inches of sand over the manure in the hotbed and lax- down small, healthy sweet pota- toes, close together but not touch- ing. Cover them with one or two inches of sand; water occasionally to keep slightly moist. Sprouts will soon begin to grow and immediately send out roots into the sand. When these sprouts are four or more inches long they may be pulled from the potatoes and are rooted and ready to be planted. They need not be pulled, however, until time to plant them in the garden, when all danger of frost is past. They should be set 14 inches apart in rows 36 to 60 inches apart. If only a few plants are wanted they should be jjur- chased from a seedsman, as the trouble involved in growing them in small quantities is too great to make it worth while. On land which is not thorougly drained the plants should be set on ridges and these should be made broad, as narrow ridges will dry out too rapidly. The ridges should be maintained during the entire growing season. Sweet potatoes should be dug when the soil is dry and the weather bright, before there is danger of hard frosts. A spading fork may be used in digging them. Guard against bruising or injuring them in digging and handling. Let the roots lie out to dry for two or three hours after digging. Asparagus Use strong plants two years old, which may be purchased from seedsmen. Set them 18 inches apart, in rows 3 feet apart. The rows should be 8 to 10 inches deep, with width of 6 to 8 inches at bottom. After spreading out roots cover crowns with 2 inches of soil. With the growth of the shoots gradually fill in with earth until level with surface. Careful cultivation is required during the season. A small bed heavily manured w'ill furnish plants for 2 or 3 persons. Beans Beans form a staple crop which may be raised in almost every climate. They need a rich soil which holds moisture, but is well drained. Frequent shallow cultivation must be given and they must be kept growing with- out a check until harvested. Never cultivate while moisture is on vines. Beans are susceptible to cold and for sure results they should not be planted until danger of frost is past. So little trouble is in- volved in bean planting, however, that it is a good plan to take a chance on making the first I)Ianting as soon as the ground is reasonably warm. If the first planting should be killed ])}■ frost there is a good chance that the second will come up and that it will mature early. In this way a crop will be assured early enough to make it worth while to take the small risk involved in the possible loss of the early planting. Dry shell beans are planted and treated the same as string beans are planted and treated. The beans are allowed to mature in the pods. They should be thoroughly dried, shelled and stored as directed for storage of seed on page 32. String and lima beans are grown alike. There are two sorts of each — low bush vines and bean vines that climb poles. Pole beans are best for small gardens. Plant beans and bush limas 1 inch deep, 4 to 6 inches apart in rows. Make successive plantings every ten days until hot weather. In late summer make successive plantings of string beans until eight weeks before the usual time of first frost. Plant pole beans and pole limas in hills 1 inch deep, 4 seeds to hill, hills 3 feet apart. Thin to 2 jjlants to the hill. Before plant- ing fix firmly in each hill a pole 5 to 6 feet long. If desired have two rows of hills and slant the poles so that each set of 4 may i)e tied together at the top like an Indian teepee. This prevents the poles from falling, but reduces the yield of the vines. Help the vines to start twining around the poles from right to left. Note: Plant lima beans with the "eyes" of the seed downward. Beets Sow seed rather thickly in row, using 1 oz. to 50 feet, but thin the young plants by pulling until the survivors are 4 inches apart. The pulled plants make fine greens for cook- ing or canning. Brussels Sprouts Grown like cabbage. Cabbage Set plants from indoor seed boxes or pots 15 inches apart in rows, the rows be- ing 30 inches apart. Between these rows 16 — Lima bean vine on pole. 14 WAR GARDENING early lettuce, radishes, and other little crops may be planted. Early cabbage should be gathered as soon as it has formed solid heads. Late cabbage may be stored in trenches and covered with straw and earth. t—0 Fig. 17 — Corn, planted properly, at depth of 2 inches. Carrots Sow seed >^ inch deep, using }{ ounce to 25 feet of row. Thin to 2 or 3 inches apart when roots crowd each other. Cauliflower Grown the same as cabbages, except when the heads form, the loose outer leaves should be tied together over the heads to keep out the light and bleach them. Celery Sow seed in seed boxes and set plants in garden in June or July, 6 inches apart, trenches 6 inches deep and 3 feet apart. Make the trenches 6 to 8 inches wide at the bottom so that rains will not wash the earth over the young plants. As the plants grow, cultivate the ground into the trenches. When plants are large heap earth around stalks to whiten them. Celeriac This is a large rooted form of celery. It is grown like celery, except that the plants do not need bleaching. The large root is cooked for use. The plants should be pro- tected in freezing weather by straw' or mulch (half-rotted manure and straw), and dug when needed. Corn, Sweet Plant 5 or 6 seed 1 inch deep in hills 3 feet apart. When plants are 4 inches high •pull out all but 2 or 3 plants in each hill. Make new plantings every 2 weeks until July or August so as to have corn for use during the entire season. Cucumbers Plant 8 to 10 seed 1 inch deep in hills 4 feet apart. Later thin to 2 plants per hill. Do not plant until soil is warm and frosts are over. Hoe or cultivate only until plants start to vine, then pull weeds by hand. Eggplant Little plants from seed boxes are set 2 feet apart in rows 3 feet apart. Endive In midsummer sow seed ^ inch deep and later thin plants to 8 inches apart. To blanch hearts raise leaves and tie together over heart. Kale Sow seed }4 inch deep in rows 18 to 24 inches apart. Thin the plants until they are from 6 to 8 Inches apart in the rows. Sow seed J4 plants to 4 or 6 inches Kohlrabi inch deep and later thin Lettuce Sow seed )4 inch deep in rojvs 1 foot apart and later thin out until plants are 5 to 6 inches apart. There should be successive plantings, but lettuce is not grown in ex- tremely hot weather. Sow seed the last of August and in September to be transplanted to the cold frame in October. Mint Roots may be procured from a seedsman or neighbor. Plant one or two clumps of these roots in a corner of garden in the spring. Muskmelon Grown like cucumbers except hills must be 6 feet apart. Muskmelons are difficult to raise and are not recommended to gardeners who are not exj)erienced in their culture. Fig. 18 — Corn, planted properly in hill, at a depth of 2 inches and with corner kernels 3 inches apart. Okra Sow seeds when corn and beans are being planted. Sow 1 inch deep a tew inches apart in rows 3 to 5 feet apart. Thin plants to 18 or 24 inches apart. Until plants are almost grown cultivate frequently and not very deeply. Pick young pods every day to keep plant bearing. Onions Onions will grow from seed or from bulbs, called sets. It is better to use sets in home gardens. For early green onions plant sets THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 15 3 inches apart in rows 1 foot or more apart. To grow from seed, plant the seed rather thickly ^ of an inch deep in rows and thin them later until plants are 2 to 3 inches apart. If sets for planting next spring are desired, do not thin out any plants, but let them crowd so they will remain small. Seed may be planted in seed box or seed bed and when transplanted placed 3 inches apart. Parsley Sow seed thinly }4, inch deep, later thin- ning plants when they crowd each other. Parsnips Sow seed thinly ^ of an inch deep in rows 18 to 24 inches apart and later thin plants to 3 inches apart. • Peas An Important factor in the successful raising of garden peas is that the smooth-seeded type are not easily damaged by light frost. Because of this they may be planted early in the spring — practically as soon as weather conditions permit preparation of the ground. They may be grown in almost any ordinary soil. The best soil is sandy loam, well drained, and rich with rotted manure. To give continuous supply throughout the growing season make successive plantings from one to two weeks apart. For the earliest crops select the smooth- seeded varieties of quick maturity. These varieties require no supports. For later crops select the large, wrinkled varieties. H> -s -3 Fig. 19 — Peas, planted properly, at depth of 4 inches. As soon as plants break through the ground, cultivate. Continue to do this three or four times a week until the vines lop over. Peas should be planted in trenches 4 inches deep, the seed being covered with 2 to 3 inches of soil. From 1 to 2 pints of seed will plant 100 feet of row. As the plants grow, grad- ually fill in the trench around them. Let the vines of the tall varieties grow up on brush or poultry wire. The rows of peas should be 3 to 4 feet apart, but if the space is small it is desir- able to plant double rows 1 foot apart, placing the brush between these rows. Peppers Set ^oung plants from seed box 18 inches apart in row. Pepper plants are tender and should not be set out until the ground is warm. Potatoes For special in- structions on Irish and Sweet Potatoes see pages 12 and 13. Pumpkin Plant in hills 8 to 10 feet apart, using 8 to 10 seed to a hill. Plant seed 1 inch deep. Later thin to 2 or 3 plants to a hill. Fig. 20 — A tomato plant should be tied with a strip of cloth, at a height of ten inches, again at about 18 inches and again at about 26 inches. The plant here pictured is a good one from which to save seed. Radishes Planted and grown the same as carrots. Rhubarb Procure roots from a neighbor or dealer as seed planting is not advised. Set them 3 to 4 feet apart, in rows or next to fence. Use manure freely. Salsify or Oyster Plant Also called vegetable oyster. Grown like carrots. Plants must be thinned to 3 inches apart. Spinacli Sow seed thickly 1 inch deep in rows 12 to 18 inches apart, for both early spring and fall crops. Squash Grown the same as cucumbers or musk- melon, except that the hills of Hubbard squash should be 7 to 9 feet apart. Swiss Chard Sow seed ^ inch deep. Thin out when necessary. Tomatoes Tomatoes form one of the favorite crops of the home garden, as they will grow in all tj'pes of soil. Sandy loam, with plenty of humus, is ideal for growing tomatoes. 16 WAR GARDENING If plants are grown in seed flats, hotbeds or cold frames, follow the directions for transplanting given on pages 9 and 10. Plants suitable for setting out should be 4-6 inches high, having a thick stem and dark green leaves. Begin cultivation as soon as the plants are set. Cultivate deeply and close to plants at first but later cultiva- tion should be more shallow to prevent injury to roots. Cultivate frequently to keep the soil loose over the surface, so preventing evaporation. Always cultivate after a rain. When preparing seed flats, hotbeds, or cold frames for tomato seed, use soil which has never grown tomatoes. This insures plants free from disease. It is not advisable to plant tomatoes on land which has been planted the previous year with white potatoes, melons or tomatoes. To plant on such soil increases the danger from disease and pests. It is always advisable to train the plants to stakes or other supports. They may be trained on wires or on poultry wire fastened on posts set about fifteen feet apart in rows. Barrel hoops a foot apart fastened to stakes eighteen inches apart are some times used. To tie plant to support, loop the string around the support and tie it under a leaf stem. Remove all side branches at the axil of the leaves as soon as they appear. Do not remove flower clusters. When the plant has reached a height of 5 feet cut off' the top. When three or four clusters of fruit have formed and some of the fruit is as large as a silver dollar prune the leaves at the base one half. This hastens ripening. Once a month apply a little commercial fertilizer or compost around each plant. Avoid the use of fresh or unrotted manure as this produces too much leaf growth, the fruit does not set and disease is encouraged. Turnips For early spring, plant }i ounce of seed to 50 feet of row, sowing them }4 inch deep, in rows 1 foot or more apart. For fall crop }4 ounce of seed to 50 feet of row, % inch deep, or make the rows 8 to 10 inches wide and scatter seeds thinly in broad rows. Vegetable Marrow Plant 6 or 8 seed to a hill, one inch deep, in hills 8 to 9 feet apart. Thin to 2 plants to hill. Give the same care as for pump- kins. The young and tender vegetable marrow may be baked whole like sweet potatoes or may be sliced and fried like eggplant, or boiled like summer squash. Watermelon Plant 1 inch deep, 8 or 10 seed to each hill, the hills 10 feet apart. Later thin to 2 plants to each hill. Watermelons require much room and are not recommended for small gardens. DISEASE AND INSECT PREVENTION Every garden is subject to attack from insects and diseases. Your garden may not be attacked, but it is wise to take advance precautions. Spraying at occasional in- tervals from the time the plants have made their start until they are harvested is worth while. A hand sprayer should be used to distribute the necessary solutions on the plants. Such sprayers may be bought in various types. Some of them may be bought for a dollar or less and others range up to the neighborhood of $10 for the small, compressed air type. The simplest and cheapest type is the small atomizer sprayer with hand pump and with glass receptacle for holding mixture. (Figure 21.) Another type, costing a little more, is the bucket pump. (Figure 21.) If you have no spray pump a Fig. 21 — Some of the best types of sprayer. At the left is a hand sprayer, which is one of the most satisfactory for the small garden. The glass receptacle is better than metal. This sprayer can be bought for from 50 cents to $2.00. In the center is a bucket sprayer which costs about §5.00. At the right is a compressed air sprayer, which is highly efficient and costs from $5.00 to $10.00. One sprayer may be used by several families, or by community gardeners, reducing the cost to each user. , THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 17 phate ill about one-half gallon of hot water and then dilute with enough cold water to make a total of IK gallons; or wrap the copper sulphate in a small piece of cheese- cloth, fill a quart jar with cold water and sus- pend the copper sulphate into the top of the water; in a couple of hours it will be dis- solved. In another vessel slake the lime and dilute it with enough water to make l}i gallons. If hydrated lime is used simply mix if^ with water. Then pour these two solutions together, pouring the solution of copper sulphate slowly into the mixture of lime and water, stirring vigorously while this process is under way. The stirring insures proper mixing of the two. Bordeaux mixture may be purchased in concentrated form from seedsmen, but the good substitute is the whisk broom, for spattering the spray on plants. After using, wash out pump and hose as some sprays will corrode metal and others will rot hose. The ordinary sprinkling pot may be used to apply mixtures, but this is wasteful. Buy Spraying Materials Early Early purchase of spraying materials is important. The supply will be limited and the demand large. Make a list of the ma- terials you will need, with amounts, and place your order immediately. If you have equipment from last season place your order early for repair parts for pump, hose or nozzle, especially extra couplings and hose splicers for burst hose. If you delay until the spraying season arrives you are likely to fail to procure your supply. By joining with friends or neighbors and buying in quantities you can procure materials at lower prices than if buying alone. For home mixing the poisons and chemicals required for sprays and other remedies and prevent- ives can be bought at a drug or seed store. The mixtures ready prepared can be bought at a seed store. Diseases The ordinary blights are usually overcome by spraying with Bor- deaux mixture, made as indicated in the next paragraph. There are some diseases, however, which pig. 22— Potato blights and their effect. At tlic left are shown leaves , 11 nffli<-t(vl with ptHv blicl't indicated bv brown sfwts with concentnc cannot be overcome, and when ^^/^\^\^^/,?g"|7t i^'^l^^n ,ate W trouble appears that does not water-soaked. These pictures should help in detecting trouble. yield to treatment the affected plants should be taken up and burned to prevent the spread of the infection to others. Bordeaux Mixture Copper Sulphate, Blue vStoae "or Blue Vitriol 3 ounces Lump Lime or Hydrated Lime 3 ounces Water 2J's. 20 NOTE as soon as they appear WAR GARDENING PREVENTIVES AND REMEDIES It is important that immediate attention be given insects and diseases Delay in spraying or removal may prove fatal. ASPARAGUS Rust — (Rusty appearance of leaves and stems). — Procure rust resistant variet>% such as Reading Giant or Palmetto. Beetles — -(Eat young stems and leaves). Remedy : On young plants spray with arsenate of lead when pests appear, repeating 10 days later and again 10 days later if necessary. Add an ounce of laundry soap per gallon of spray to make it stick to the foliage. Do not use arsenate of lead on new stems used for food during cutting season. On old plants, spray after cutting season. Nicotine sulphate sprayed on the young insects will kill all it hits. BEETS Leaf spot — (Reddish and purple spots, turning ashy gray). — Usually not affecting garden beets. Remedy: Spray with Bordeaux mixture when plants are 3 to 4 inches high, repeating 2 and 4 weeks later. Web worm — (Eats the leaves). Remedy: Spray with arsenate of lead when worms appear; repeat when necessary. Spinach aphis — (Sucks sap from leaves). Remedy: Spray with nicotine sulphate when pests appear and repeat when' necessary. In order to strike the aphids the spray must be directed against the undersides of the leaves. Beet-root aphis — (Sucks sap from roots). Remedy: Pour a small amount of nicotine sulphate spray around roots and repeat if necessary. BUSH BEANS Anthracnose — (Dark, sunken spots, scab-like, on pods; spots on leaves). — -Pick and burn diseased pods. In saving seed discard those from diseased plants, as seed carry the infection. Leaf beetles — fVery small, dark or pale stripes; eat leaves). Remedy: Spray with arsenate of lead when pests appear, repeat in 10 days and later if neces- sary. Bordeaux mixture repels but does not kill. Aphids or plant lice — (Suck sap from plant and make leaves crumple). Remedy: Spray with nicotine sulphate when pests appear, repeating when and as often as necessary. Crumpled leaves protect lice from spray, and should be picked and burned. Ap- ply spray to underside of leaves, to strike aphids. Bacterial blight — -(Water soaked spots on leaves and pods). — -No satisfactory remedy. Pull up and burn plants. Downy Mildew — -(thick white growth). — Burn all diseased pods. Spray with Bordeaux mixture, repeating every ten days if necessary. CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER Club root — -(Root swells and decays). — Pull up and burn plants. Preventive: In spring apply 1 lb. lime to each 8 sq. ft. of ground before setting out plants. Black rot — (Leaves turn yellow, then brown and black and decay. Pull up and burn plants.) Preventive: Soak seed 15 minutes in solution made of ],i oz. formalin and 3 pints water; rinse in clean water; plant at once. Yellows — -(Leaves turn yellow, then brown, and drop). Pull up and burn plants. Preventive: Treat seed as for black rot. Cabbage worms — (Eat leaves). Remedy: When worms appear spray with arsenate of lead, repeating if necessary before heads form. Add an ounce of laundry soap per gallon of spray to make it stick to the leaves. Do not use arsenate of lead later than 3 weeks before using or marketing cabbage. Aphids or lice — (Suck sap from leaves). Remedy: Spray with nicotine sulphate solu- tion when pests appear; repeat if necessary. Cabbage looper — (Eats leaves'). Remedy: Treat as for cabbage worms. Cabbage Maggots — (Tunnel inside of roots). Preventive: When plants are set out take a piece of tarred building paper 2 or 3 inches in diameter, cut a slit from one side to center, and 4 or 5 slits at center. Fit this around stem by slipping plant through the long slit, and press paper firmly against ground, to prevent young maggots from reaching root. Black leg — (Diseased, sunken areas on stem, leaf stem and leaves, plant becoming purplish). — There is no remedy. Pull up and burn plants. Preventive: Disinfect seed for 10 minutes with 1 tablet of corrosive sublimate mixed in 1 pint of water. Cutworms — (Dark colored, eat young plants off at surface of earth). Remedy: Spread poisoned bran mash over ground before setting out plants; spread around plants when set. Afterwards spread poisoned bait around plants as necessary to control worms. It is wise to wrap paper around stem from leaves to root just before setting out. Cutworms are especially abundant where sod has grown. CELERY AND CELERIAC Blight or leaf spot — (Gray or brown spots, drooping stems). Remedy: Spray young seedlings, in seed box or seed bed, with Bordeaux mixture. Spray again as soon as set in garden, repeating 10 to 14 days later. Repeat again if necessary. Spray- ing in seed bed must not be neglected if disease appears. SWISS CHARD Leaf spot — -(Symptoms same as with beets). Remedy: When disease appears, spray as di- rected for beets. (Usually no spraying will be found necessary). Wash sprayed leaves well before using. Damping off — (Small seedlings dying in seed bed). Preventive: Care should be taken to water and partially shade the young seedlings in hot and dry weather. As soon as seed are planted cover bed with thin layer of sand. SPINACH Aphids — (Suck sap from leaves). Remedy: Spray under side of leaves with nicotine sulphate, when aphids appear. Repeat a second and third time if necessary. THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 21 CORN Smut — (Large, black, irregular swellings on ears or tops). The only remedy is to cut off and bura the smut swellings. Cornear worms — (Bore through husk and eat the young kernels). Kill all worms which are found when husking corn for use. Cutworms — (A dark worm which cuts plant off at surface of earth when plant is small). Remedy: Use poisoned bait in the same manner prescribed for cabbage. Repeat if nec- essary. Being a night worker the cut-worm is usually found in the morning in the ground by cut off plants. Dig out and kill. Seed Corn Maggot — ■(Tunnels in seed, sprouts and stems of plants). — .A.pply liquid poisoned bait with a whisk broom. CUCUMBERS Anthracnose — (Brown spots on leaves). Remedy: Spray with Bordeau.x mi.\ture when plants begin to form vines. Repeat two or three times if necessary, at intervals of 2 weeks. Downy mildew — (Yellow spots on leaves). Remedy: Treat as for anthracnose. Wilt — -(Leaves droop and wilt ciuickly). — Pull up and burn plants. Striped beetles act as carriers of this disease and should be controlled carefully. Stink bug or squash bug — (Sucks sap from leaves and injects an injurious substance). Remedy: Pick them or shake them into pan of water and kerosene. Destroy egg masses. Place small pieces of boards near hills. The bugs will collect underneath these and may be easily crushed. Striped beetle or 12-spotted beetle — (Both eat leaves). Preventive: Cover young plants with protectors of cheesecloth or wire gauze. Control: Mix arsenate of lead in the Bordeaux mixture which is used for diseases. Another remedy is to cover leaves with tobacco dust. Treatment should be given as soon as beetles appear, or when covers are removed. Repeat 5 days later and again 5 days later, with further repetitions when necessary. Vine borer — -(Worm which bores into vine at surface of earth). Remedy: Carefully cut the vine lengthwise, remove borer and kill. As plants grow throw earth over vine at every other joint, in order that new roots may form and to keep the vine growing. EGGPLANT Blight or wilt — (Whole plant wilts). — Xo remedy. Pull up and burn plants. Flea beetle — (Small jumping beetle which eats leaves). Remedy: Spray with Bordeaux mixture and arsenate of lead combination. ONIONS Thrips — fV'erj' small sucking insects, which cause leaves to turn a silvery color or whitish, and later to curl and twist). Remedy: Spray with nicotine sulphate solu- tion when pests apjjear, repeating once or twice as necessary. Cutworms — (Dark worms which attack onions as they do corn). Remedy: Same as with corn. Onion Maggot — (Rats bulb, inducing decay). — Remedy: Apply liquid poisoned bait witli a whisk broom. Anthracnose — (Dark sunken spots in fruit; cracks in leaves). Remedy: Spray with Bordeaux mixture when plants are set, repeating 10 days later and again 102 OZ. Distance Apart In Inches Rows 12 to 24. 36 to 48. 20 to 24. 36 to 48. 18 to 24 . 36 to 48. 12 to 18. 24 to 30. 24 to 30. 24 to 36. 18 to 24. 24 to 30. 18 to 36. 18 to 24. 30 to 36. 12 to 18. 48 to 72. 24 to 36. 18 24 to 30. 18 to 24. 18 to 24.. 12 to 18.. 72 to 96.. 36 to 48. 12 to 18. 12 to 18. 12 to 18. 18 to 24. 36 to 48. 18 to 24. 24 to 36.. 36 to 60.. 96 to 144. 12 to 18.. 36 to 60.. 18 to 24.. 18 to 24.. 12 to 18.. 36 to 48.... 84 to 120... 36 to 48.... 36 to 48 18 to 24.. .. 96 to 144... 96 to 120... In Row 3 to 5 15 to 20 4 to 6 Hills 24-36. 4 to 6 Hills 24 to 36. 5 or 6 to ft. . . 16 to 24 12 to 18 16 to 24.... 6 or 7 to ft. 14 to 18.... 4 to 8. 4 to 6 to ft . 30 to 36.. .. 4 to 5 to ft . 48 to 72 ... . 18 to 24..., 8 to 10. 4 to 6.. 6 to 8.. 4 to 6.. . 4 to 6.. . Hills 72. 24 to 30 5 or 10 to ft . 4 or 5 to ft . . 3 to 6. 4 or 6 to ft . 15 to ft. . . . 15 to 18.... 14 to 18 14 96 to 144 8 or 12 to ft .. . 36 to 48 6 to 8 2 to 4 7 or 8 to ft ... . Hills 36 to48. . Hi.ls 84 to 108 . 30 to 36 30 to 36 6 or 7 to ft ... . Hills 96 to 108. 96 to 120 Depth of Planting Inches J-^ to 1 . 8 to 10. 1 1 1 1 1 to 2. Vi.... 1 to2.. Yi to 1. 1 to 1. 3 to 4. Vi-... 1 to2.. 2 to 1. to 2.. '.'2 to 1. I to 4 . . 3 to 5. 2 to 3. * NOTE H to 1.. 1 to 2. \i to 1 . M to Vo. 1 to 2 . . . Time of Planting Early spring. . . Early spring. . . . XpnX to August. May and June. . May and June. . April to June April to July Vpril to August March and April (Start in hotbed dur- ing February) . . . May and June April to June April to June (Start in hotbed d uring Feb ruary or March). . . . May and June. (Start in hotbed during March or April). . . .April to July May to July March to May April to July .April and May. (Start in hotbed during March) Midsummer , Early spring , Early spring and Aug- ust and September. .\pril to August March to September. . April to June. (Start early plants in hot- bed during March). . May and June April and May \utumn and ^larch to May Early spring and Sep- tember .A-pril and May March to June May and June. (Start early plants in hot- bed during March). . March to June March to June May March to September.. . Early spring May and June Early spring September or very early spring April to June .April to June May and June. (Start early plants in hot- bed during February and March) -April and August April to June May Mature (In days, except as noted) 3 to 4 yrs. 1 to 3 yrs. 40 to 65.. 50 to 80.. 60 to 90. . 60 to 80. . 60 to 80 . . 60 to 80.. 90 to 130.. 90 to 130.. 75 to 110., 100 to 130. 120 to 150 60 to 80.. 60 to 100. 30 to 40.. 60 to 80.. 100 to 140. 90»to 180.. 1 to2 yrs.. 90 to 120.. 60 to 80.. . 60 to 90... 120 to 150. 60 to 90... 130 to 150. 90 to 120.. 90 to 120.. 125 to 160. 40 to 80.. . 100 to 140. to 140.. 100 to 130. 100 to 140. 20 to 40.. . 1 to 3 vrs. . 60 to 80.. . 120 to 180. 30 to 60.. . 60 to 80.. . 120 to 160. 100 to 140. 80 to 100.. 60 to 80. . . 110 to 140. 100 to 120. * NOTE. — Set rhubarb plants so that growing tips are at surface of ground. Absolute dates for planting can not be given, because of variations in seasons from year to year and varying climatic conditions in different sections. For general guidance see "When to Plant," on page 10. PART II HOME STORAGE MANUAL FOR VEGETABLES AND APPLES No form of Food Conservation is more important than the home storage of vegetables for winter use. Canning and drying are essential to the nation's food supply, and should be practised to the fullest possible extent, but they do not take the place of storage. To keep vegetables in their natural state is the simplest form of preparation for winter needs. By taking proper -precautions against decay and freezing an abundant supply of certain kinds of fresh vegetables may be kept at minimum expenditure of money and effort. STORAGE HELPS SOLVE FOOD PROBLEM The importance of making provision for winter food needs is even greater this year than it was in 1918. Every pound of food- stuffs that can be spared for export will be needed in Europe for feeding American troops and to prevent the starvation of the domestic and military populations of the Allied nations. Every pound of vegetables stored away for home uses will release ex- portable food. A nation with a food short- age is a nation in peril. For this reason it is of vital importance that no vegetables of high food value be allowed to go to waste. To save is to be patriotic. The home gardening campaign conducted by the National War Garden Commission will this year result in the creation of a vast new planting area. The output of these gardens is greatly in excess of immediate needs. Unless proper steps are taken to safeguard the surplus the waste will be pro- digious. This Commission will stimulate nation-wide activity in canning and drying. An important purpose of this booklet is to arouse similar interest in the storage of vegetables. WHAT AND HOW TO STORE There are many vegetables which can be stored to good advantage. Included in the list are Potatoes, Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, Onions, Sweet Potatoes, Celery, Salsify, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, Win- ter Squash, Turnips, Beans and Lima Beans. Good results in storage depend upon: 1 — Ventilation. 2 — Regulation of temperature. 3 — Sufficient moisture. 4 — Quality of vegetables stored. For some vegetables satisfactory storage places are afforded by the pantry shelf or attic. For others the cellar is the right place. For others outdoor storage is pref- erable. This may take the form of pits or banks, or it may be done in hillside caves or cellars. COMMUNITY STORAGE Especially good results may be obtained if several neighboring families will form community clubs to provide storage facili- ties. In this way very complete provision may be made for handling winter supplies at slight trouble and expense to the indi- vidual household. Community or co-operative storage may be effected in various ways. Several fami- lies may join together and construct out- door cellars or they may join in the use of an available building conveniently located in which vegetables may be stored in large quantities. CELLAR STORAGE Beets Parsnips Cabbage Potatoes Carrots Salsify Celery Turnips In a house heated by a cellar furnace vegetables may be stored to good advantage in the cellar. Partition off a small room as far as possible from the heating plant. Two sides of this room should be outside walls. There should be at least one outside win- dow, for temperature regulation and venti- lation. The suggested arrangement in Figure 1 shows ventilation afforded by a stove- STORE YOUR SURPLUS FOR WINTER Fig. 1 — This suggests an arrangement for storage in a cool cellar. An earth floor is best, as it gives off some mois- ture. If the floor is of concrete it should be covered with 2 or 3 inches of sand and this should be sprinkled with water occasionally. In the drawing a pane in the upper part of one window is shown to be missing. Tliis is to allow the escape of heated air. In severely cold weather close these openings. The stove pipe fitted into the place for one of the lower panes admits cold air. Instead of a stove pipe a wooden flue, made of old boards or parts of boxes, may be used. Bins and boxes should be placed on slats to lift t'lem from the floor and allow circulation. For this same purpose bins and boxes should be at least one or two inches from the wall. Air holes bored ii^ sides and bottom of bins and bo.xes help circulation. Protect glass jars from light. pipe inserted through one of the lower panes of the window, to admit cold air and indicates the removal of one of the upper panes of glass to allow the escape of warm air. This affords constant circulation. An earth floor is desirable, but this is not always possible, as most city and many town and country houses have floors of concrete. In a cellar with a concrete floor the concrete should be covered with two or three inches of sand, which should be sprinkled with water froiii time to time. In this room may be stored Beets, Car- rots, Cabbage, Celery, Parsnips, Salsify, Turnips and Potatoes. (Special attention is given Potatoes on page 28.) Put them in bins or in boxes, baskets, slat crates or bar- rels. It is best to use movable containers and small ones. Bins should not hold more than two or three bushels apiece, as the larger bulk brings danger of heating and consequent decay. There should be full protection from mice. The vegetables shoifld be hars^ested when the ground is dry, if possible, and should lie outdoors a few hours until any surface moisture on them has evaporated. Remove the tops, leaving an inch or so, from beets, turnips, carrots and salsify. To lea\e an inch or so of top prevents bleeding and dry- ing out. Sort vegetables according to size and condition. Imperfect or bruised ones should be selected for immediate use and only sound vegetables should be stored. In cellar storage beets, turnips and carrots may be buried in slightly damp sand to good purpose. Cabbages may be stored in the cellar in boxes or barrels of earth or sand, or they may be placed in a cool cellar on the floor with roots up. Celery, to be stored in a cellar, should be allowed to stay in the garden until there is danger of severe freezing. In order to pro- long the period of keeping it outdoors the plants should be protected from frost by banking them with earth to within two or three inches of the tops. On cold nights protect the tops with paper, burlap, mats, straw or other covering. The importance of not harvesting at the first appearance of frost arises from the fact that this period is likely to be followed by warm weather, which will cause decay by creating too high a tempera- ture in the place of storage. With the arrival of steady cool weather, which will freeze the plants, dig them, leaving some soil adhering to the roots. For cellar storage place the plants upright, covering the roots with three or four inches of sand or light soil. (Fig. 2.) Earth may be banked around the stalks but this is not necessary. Water the soil oc- casionally, being sure to keep the leaves and stalks dry to prevent decay. Celery may also be stored in cellar boxes, following these same directions. The cellar storage room may also be used for the storage of fresh fruits and for canned goods, preserves and dried vegetables and fruits. Fig. 1 shows a suggested arrange- ment for shelves for canned and dried articles. If the shelves are not protected from light by doors all canned goods in glass should be wrapped in brown paper, to prevent bleaching 26 HOME STORAGE of the contents as a result of exposure to the light. Wide fluctuations of temperature should be avoided. The ideal temperature is 40 degrees F. The root cellar should be kept at not less than 32 degrees and not over 50 degrees. PIT STORAGE Beets Potatoes Carrots Turnips Cabbage Salsify Celery Parsnips For outdoor storage one of the best forms is a mound shaped pit. To prepare for this remove two or three inches of earth and line this shallow excavation with hay, straw, leaves or similar material. Place the vege- tables on this in a conical pile. Cover the vegetables with several inches of the material used in making the lining. Cover this \yith 3 or 4 inches of earth. As severe weather ajSproaches the outer covering should be increased. An additional layer of hay or similar material may be placed over the layer of earth and on top of this another layer of earth. In extremely cold climates the total thickness of earth layers should be as much as 12 inches. Over the outer layer of earth pile manure or corn stalks for added protection. To give ventilation have the inner layer of straw project through the outer covering and extend to the top of the cone. For protection from rain and snow this opening should be covered. A board laid over the top and weighted with a stone is Fig. 2 — For storage in cellar without heater celery should be set in two or three inches of sand or light soil and the plants then banked with soil. The soil must not be allowed to become dry. suitable for this purpose. An idea of the construction is given in Fig. 5. It is well to make several small pits rather than one large one, for the reason that when a pit has been once opened the entire contents should be removed. This form of storage is used for potatoes, beetsf carrot, turnips, parsnips, cabbage and salsify. It i§ well to store sev&ral varieties of vegetables in one pit so that the opening of a single pit will afford a supply of all of them. In following this plan it is desirable to separate the various crops by the use of straw or leaves. When a pit has been opened it is impossible to give adequate protection to vegetables therein. For this reason those not required for immediate use should be removed, placed in the basement storage room, or other cool Fig 3 — ShiUow bins or shelves with board side-- for ''toring root crops in cool cellar The air of the room must not be allowed to become too dry, as this will cause the vegetables to shrivel. Potatoes must be protected from light. place, and used as needed. This emphasizes the importance of making small pits, each one holding not more than two to six weeks' supply. Instead of making a dirt pit, barrels may be used in which to place vegetables. (Fig. 8.) Make a slight depression the length of the barrel and put in a thick layer of straw or leaves. On this place the barrel. Cover the barrel with successive layers of straw or leaves, and dirt. As the weather grows colder put on more dirt until there is from 14 to 18 inches of covering. For ease in opening make a door at one end, against which pile earth and manure of sufficient thickness to prevent freezing. Cabbage For late varieties of cabbage the pit should be long and narrow. The cabbages are placed in rows with heads down and covered with dirt. No other covering is needed. The removal of a portion of this supply does not disturb the remainder. (Fig. 6.) Cabbages may also be stored by placing the whole plants in a trench, roots down and plants close together. The roots should be covered with dirt. A frame should be built around the trench by driving stakes at the corners and placing boards against these to form the enclosure. The construction of such a trench is shown in Fig. 7. The boards are banked with earth and across the top of the trench boards or poles are placed, sup- ported by the frame. These should be cov- ered with straw, hay or corn fodder, for pro- tection of the contents of the trench. Two feet of the straw or similar material will be required in cold climates. Mature heads of cabbagS of long-keeping sorts, such as Danish Ball Head, may be cut STORE YOUR SURPLUS FOR WINTER 27 from the plant and stored one layer deep on shelves in cool, frost-proof cellars. Celery In storing celery in a pit or trench, the plants are set side by side as close as they may be packed and wide boards set up Fig. 4 — For squashes, sweet potal afford good storage. and puinpkujs along the outside edges of the pit. Dirt is banked up against these boards and the top covered with corn fodder or similar covering. If celery is kept in the row* where grown the earth should be banked around the plants with the approach of cold w^eather. For freezing w'eather bring the dirt to the tops of the plants and cover the ridge w'ith coarse manure, straw or fodder, using stakes or boards to hold the covering in place. Only late maturing and late planted celery can be safely stored. (Fig. 9.) A hotbed, instructions for the making of which are given on page 7 (Fig. 2), in Part I of this booklet, makes an excellent place for outdoor storage for celery. The surplus earth and manure should be removed and a board covering should be substituted for the sash and glass. Store the celery in the same manner as in pit storage. For protection from cold use any covering that will prevent freezing. Celery should not be stored with turnips or cabbage. It will absorb odors from these vegetables and its flavor will be impaired. OUTDOOR CELLAR Beets Potatoes Carrots Turnips Parsnips Salsify Cabbage An outdoor cellar makes a good storage place. In cold climates this should be par- tially underground. A side-hill location is desirable for ease In handling the vege- tables. To make such a cellar dig an excava- tion and In this erect a frame by setting posts in rows near the dirt walls. Saw these posts off at uniform height and place plates on their tops. On these plates place rafters. Board up completely with the exception of a place for the door. The whole should be covered with dirt and sod, and in cold climates added pro- tection should be given by a layer of straw, fodder or simi- lar material. Ventilate with a flue. A dirt floor is best, as some moisture is desirable. This form of storage is especially good for the joint use of several families. On a more pretentious scale cellars of this nature may be made of brick, stone or concrete. Such cellars afford practically perfect storage room for pota- toes, carrots, cabbages, parsnips, beets, turnips and salsify. .car furnace VARIOUS METHODS Permanent cold frames, with deep pits, may also be used to advantage in storing vegetables if the drainage is made thorough. After the frames are filled the sash should be covered with boards and the outside banked with soil or manure. As the w^eather becomes severe a covering of straw or mats is necessary'. This covering should be hea^^ enough to prevent freezing. Cauliflower and Brussels Sprouts which have not matured may be taken up and GROli WDLE VE^ Fig. 5 — Irisli potatoes in an outdoor mound. This mound must be in a well-drained location. After re- moving 2 or 3 inches of earth, pile the potatoes on a 2 or 3-inch laver of dry straw, leaves or hay. Cover the vecjetables with 2 or 3 inches of straw, leaves or hay, and cover this with 3 or 4 inches of earth. Increase the thickness of the earth layer as severe weather approaches, making it as much as 12 inches in extremely cold climates. Manure or corn stalks should be piled over the mor.nd. The straw, coming to the top, will afford ventilation. The opening should be covered for protection from rain. planted in shallow boxes of soil in a light place in the cellar. If kept well watered they will mature for winter use. 28 HOME STORAGE Dry beans may be stored in cloth bags in a pantry or in any cool, dry and well ventilated room. The bags should be hung away from the floor to prevent damage by rats and mice. Onions require a cool, dry place. They should be cured by being exposed to the air for a few days in the shade. The tops should be removed before storing. Keep them in baskets, trays or other holders which let the air circulate. Onions are not damaged by temperatures slightly below freezing, and for storing them the attic is better than the cellar. If stored in the cellar they should be suspended from the ceiling. Squashes are susceptible to cold and moisture, and for that reason should be stored in a dry place where the tempera- ture will be between 50 and 60 degrees F. Squashes may be kept by placing them in a single layer on a dry floor and covering with rugs or carpets, but care must be taken that the stems are not broken off and that they do not become bruised before storing. Whenever it is found that any of the squashes or pumpkins are showing signs of decay, the sound portions should be canned. Tomatoes may be saved by pulling up the entire plant before freezing weather. The vines should be suspended by the roots in a cool cellar. The tomatoes will gradually ripen. If these tomatoes, when cooked, are found to be acid, the acidity can be over- come by using baking soda. Parsley may be saved by transplanting into flower pots late in the fall. These should be kept in windows where they will receive sunshine. Parsnips and salsify are not injured by remaining in the ground all winter. Enough for inmiediate needs may be dug in the fall and the others harvested as required. "^TS^'^IB"--- ^ROUNO Fig. 6 — Cabbage stored, rool.-, up, in a baiiK. of tartli. The place must be well drained. The cabbages are covered with earth, but this need not be as thick as for some vegetables, as slight freezing does no harm. POTATOES As one of the staple vegetables, potatoes are entitled to special consideration for winter storage. If you have raised a sur- plus crop in your own garden save as many as possible for your winter's supply. If you have none of your own raising it is well to buy them early in the fall, at the time of greatest supply and lowest prices, and store them for the winter, making yourself independent of the market during the time of highest prices. Potatoes may be stored in cellars, pits and outdoor cellars, as already described. Before they are stored they should be al- lowed to dry. This is done by digging Fig. 7 — This shows cabbage, pulled with roots, stored in .1 shallow trench, with roots down. The roots are covered with earth. The stakes, projecting 2 feet above the surface of the earth, serve as supports for boards or poles which make an enclosure. This frame should be banked with dirt (b). Across the top place poles or plank and cover with straw, hay or corn fodder (a). Make the trench as long as necessary and any width up to 8 feet. them on bright days, if possible, and allow- ing them to lie alongside the rows for a few hours. Before storing sort them carefully as to size and soundness. The smaller pota- toes and those which show signs of threatened decay should not be stored, but should be used early. The success of potato storage depends on the exclusion of light, proper ventilation, the proper amount of moisture, the size of the pile or container and the type of the tubers stored. In storing potatoes it should be remem- bered that the purpose is to protect them from great changes of temperature and from light. Even a small amount of light changes the food value of potatoes. There should be enough moisture to keep the pota- toes from wilting, but not enough to cause moisture to gather on the surface. If potatoes are stored in a place where there is moisture in the air, provision should be made to permit free circulation of air through the containers. Barrels, boxes and bins may be ventilated by boring holes in sides and bottoms. Barrels, boxes and crates should be set on slats to hold them off the floor and allow the air to circulate underneath. If the storage place is light a blanket, several thicknesses of paper, or old sacks should be placed on top of the containers. If the air of the storage place is dry it should not be allowed to circulate freely through the containers, as dry air will cause withering of the potatoes. In such storage places the potatoes should be put STORE YOUR SURPLUS FOR WINTER 29 in containers made airtight by lining bot- tom and sides with several thicknesses of newspaper and covering the top snugly in the same manner. The temperature of a cellar storage room for potatoes should be carefully controlled "fe'Si^i Fig. 8 — A barrel can be made into a Kood storage pit for cabbage, turnips, potatoes etc. Barrel is placed on its side and covered witli straw and dirt. to prevent wide fluctuations. A constant temperature around 40 degrees F. is desir- able. It should not be allowed to go below 32 degrees or above 50 degrees. Potatoes should not be washed before storage. If they begin sprouting in the spring all the shoots should be rubbed off. The bins should be examined occasionally and any rotting potatoes removed to pre- vent the spread of infection. Bins Do not have one large bin for potatoes, as those in the center will be subjected to too high temperature, which will cause all of them to go through a sweating process. Too large a bin makes good ventilation im- possible. Open bins, not more than a foot deep, arranged as a shelf, as shown in Fig. 3, are excellent for cellar storage. Another good arrangement of shelf storage for certain- crops is shown in Fig. 4. Pits A small pit provided with ventilation, as shown in Fig. 5, is the most satisfactory. It is better to have several small pits than one large one, as the entire contents must be removed when a pit is opened. Pkice not more than two to six weeks' sujiplj^ in a single pit. SWEET POTATOES In storing sweet potatoes the important points to be kept in mind are that the pota- toes must be well matured before they are dug; they must be handled with ex- treme care; they must be allowec^to dry or cure thoroughly before storage, and they must be kept at an even temperature. A test for maturity is to cut or break a sweet potato and expose it to the air for a few minutes. If the surface of the cut or break dries the potato may be considered mature, but if moisture remains on the surface it is not properly ripe. In sections where frosts come early digging should take place about the time the first frost is expected, without regard to maturity. Care in handling is nec- essary to prevent bruising and subsequent decay. Curing is done by keeping them at an even temperature of 80 to 85 degrees F. for a week or ten days after harvesting, to dry off the moisture. The room in which this is done must be ventilated in order that the moisture-laden air may escape. For storing sweet potatoes on a large scale a specially constructed house is de- sirable. For home storage the roots may be kept near the furnace in the cellar or near the furnace chimney in a vacant up- stairs room or in the attic. The room should be kept fairly warm. After curing the temperature should be maintained around 55 degrees F. Care should be taken not to store sweet potatoes which are infested with the sweet potato weevil or root-weevil, one of the most serious pests of the Gulf region. This pest practically confines itself to destruc- tion of the tubers after harvesting. When the tubers are found infested they should be fumigated with carbon disulphid, to be procured at a drug store. Place the tubers in a box or other container which can be tightly closed. The carbon disulphid is a liquid which gives off fumes heavier than air, and one ounce per bushel should be placed in an open dish on top of the roots and the container closed. Do not allow open lights or fire in the presence of this gas as it is highly explosive. All badly affected roots should be burned. Fig. 9 — This shows celery set into an outdoor pit or trench for storage. Boards should be placed along the edges of the pit or trench and dirt banked against these boards. The tops of the celery should be covered with corn fodder, straw or similar covering. The celery may be removed easily at any time. APPLES Apple storage is simple and is desirable not only for those who grow their own apples but also for those who depend on the market for their supply. The one es- sential is that the fruit be kept in a cool, 30 HOME STORAGE— SEED SAVING dry place, and so stored as to be in no danger of absorbing odors from vegetables stored nearby. Families raising no apples, but having a good storage place, meeting the require- ments as to temperature, will find it advan- tageous to buy a winter's supply in the fall, when prices are low. The cost of pur- chases thus made will be considerably less than if apples are bought as needed during the winter. To store, sort apples carefully, removing and using at once all fruit which is bruised or shows signs of decay. The best results are secured by wrapping each apple in half a sheet of newspaper and storing in barrels, boxes, crates or bins. The wrapping pre- vents the apples from touching each other and thus prevents the spread of decay which may start. It also protects the apples from odors if vegetables are stored nearby. Apples absorb odors freely from potatoes, onions, turnips and other vegetables and should never be stored, unwrapped, in the same room with vegetables of any kind. In addition to wrap- ping the individual apples it is desirable to line the barrel or other container with a half inch thickness of newspapers, on the bottom and sides, and then cover the top with news- papers and either nail a cover on or tie the papers securely with strings. This will keep odors out. The lining and covering give full protection and make it possible to store apples in the general cellar storage room. Remember that the cellar or other place in which they are stored must be cool. A temperature of 32 degrees F. is ideal, and the temperature should not be allowed to go above 40 degrees if it can be held this low„ Apples may be stored unwrapped in bar- rels, boxes, crates or bins if proper atten- tion is paid to sorting, to providing a cool place for storage and to occasional sort- ing during the winter, for the removal of possible decaj'ed fruit. If any of the fruit in any container is found to have begun to decay all the apples in all the containers should be sorted at once and decaying fruit removed. Apples stored unwrapped must not be kept in the room with vegetables. SAVE NEXT YEAR'S SEED FROM THIS YEAR'S GARDEN Owners of gardens will find that the saving of seed from this year's gardens will be of great help for next year's planting. While it is more satisfactory, ordinarily, to purchase seed from reliable dealers the increased planting of home gardens, the poor crop of seed, the decrease of foreign importation, the exporting of certain seed to Europe and the use of certain kinds for food have caused a short- age and, as an emergency measure, each gardener should save as much seed as possible. Saving of seed is easily done, though it requires care and attention. In saving seed select them from plants of a single variety grown by itself if possible, rather than from plants where more than one variety have been planted. Where there are two or more varieties of the same vegetable growing side by side, cross fertilization takes place and standard seed cannot be obtained. It is well to learn all the features which make up the most desirable type of variety of vegetable from which seed is to be saved. Seed saved where it is grown has j.''ig. 10 — In selecting corn to be saved for seed, choose the inost perfect ears. two advantages. For one thing more careful selection can be given than is possible for all seed placed on the market. Another advan- tage is that plants from this seed will succeed best under local conditions. Select seed plants which are free from disease, which show a vigorous growth, a good yield and quality, and mature early. Mark selected plants with string. Plants selected for seed should be given especially careful cultivation and every effort should be made to promote their full development. When seed is ripe harvest with care. Seed properly stored, with the exception of parsnip and onion, should retain vitality from 2 to 5 years. Thus enough seed may be saved from a good crop to tide over the poor years. SEED MATURING IN ONE YEAR Some of the seed de- sirable for saving be- cause they mature in one year are: Beaxs — Select the best plants and let the pods mature. Pull up plants preferably in Fig. 11 — A good way of hanging seed corn to dry. SAVE THIS YEAR'S SEED FOR NEXT YEAR'S GARDEN 31 the early morning, to prevent shattering. Place plants in a dry, well aired place until seed are hard. Shell and spread in a layer until dry. Sweet Corn — Select the ears just at maturity and while on plants, as plant must be considered as well as the ear. The plant should be free from disease and preferably have two or more good ears to the stalk. The distance between joints should be short and the ears set on short, strong shanks. Ears should be nearly cylindrical and should taper but slightly from butts to tips. They should be well filled out, with husks tightly folded over ears. Pick ears from plants maturing at nearly the same time, uniform in size, strong and well rooted. Me- dium sized ears are Ijest. When fully ma- ture strip down husks and string up 10-15 cars in a dry shady place so as to dry out ears quickly. Cucumbers and Summer Squash — Select desirable fruits when in the . usable stage. Allow them to remain on vines until ripe, as indicated by change of color or hardening of surface. Remove the seed from the ripe fruit and wash free of pulp. Spread in a thin layer in the sunshine to dry, stirring frequently. A quart or less should dry satisfactorily in a day. Eggplant — When fruit is opened for food, select the best formed seed, wash and dr>'. Lettuce — Plants for seed should be started early enough so that seed setting and ripening does not occur during the hot weather. With heading varieties it may be necessary to cut across the tops of the heads to allow the seed stalks to push through. When seed heads turn white and open, cut or pull the plants, put heads in paper bags and hang in a dry place until seed are ripened and drop out of heads, or lay the plants on a table in a dry airy place. Potatoes — Select productive seed hills, as nearly free from disease as possible. Potatoes should be true as to variety, which means that a late variety should not be substituted Fig. 12 — To remove kernels when propar- inii to plant or to test seed, insert knife be- tween rows and pry sideways. Fig. 13 — Hubbard squash. A good type winter squash for seed. for early variety if the crop is to be harvested early. Early varieties cannot be substituted for late varieties as they are not as productive. Seed potatoes should be kept dormant in a dark, cool place until planting time. The production of long sprouts, or wilting, will re- duce the vigor. Rub off the long sprouts, before the potatoes are planted. Radishes — Select the finest roots and cut off all but' a few central leaves. Put the roots in a moist, airy place for a short time and then plant them with the crown an inch below the surface. When seed ripen, cut plants and lay on paper exposed in the sun. ^^'hen the outside covering ig dry, then rub out seed, dry and store. Tomatoes — Gather fruit from selected plants when a little over ripe, but not de- cayed. The seed may be freed by one of two methods. One of these is to crush the fruit, and force through a sieve, and then put the seed in a coarse cloth and press out pulp under water. Another method is to crush fruit, put in a container and allow to ferment for two or three days, stirring once in a while. The seed settle and the pulp which rises may be poured off. Wash the seed in clear water an dry. Winter Squash, Pumpkin, Muskmelon, Watermelon When fruit is opened for food, select the best formed seed, wash and dry. SEED MATURING IN TWO YEARS Such vegetables as beets, carrots, parsnip, salsify, cabbage, etc., which require one season in which to grow will produce seed in the second year. Seeds of beets, carrots, cauli- flower, turnips and late radishes are not often grown satisfactorily in the home garden. Fig. 14 — Seeding plants of onion in blos- som. They should be staked. 32 SEED SAVING They must be carefully stored during the winter. Root crops of late planting are most satisfactory for seed. Select those of the best shape, color and size. Cut off all but an inch or two of the leaf stems and store in a frost proof pit or cellar. If a cellar is used protect the roots from withering by putting them in sand, fine soil or sifted coal ashes. They should be kept very slightly moist. Do not store them in a heated cellar. Cabbage — In the fall select the best heads, pull up entire plants and store them in a trench. Next spring set out two or more plants as one plant alone rarely produces seed. It may be necessary to cut the head across the top to allow the seed stalk to develop. When the seed pods turn yellow cut off the stalk and lay it on paper in a cool shady place to dry; early morning is the best time to gather. Rub out the seed when the pod is dry. Do not grow kale, collards, cabbage or kohlrabi — any two of them — in the same garden, as they will cross-fertilize. Onions — vSeed bearing bulbs should be well rooted. In the fall plant them 3 inches deep. As cold weather approaches cover with earth to protect them from freezing. In the spring remove the ridges. The seed stalks should be supported with stakes. When most of the seed is ripe cut out the seed stalks, dry in the sunshine and rub out the seed. Parsnips — These may be left in the ground all winter. In the spring plant selected roots 3 to 5 feet apart in row. When seed are ripe cut seed stalk and dry. STORAGE OF SEED Put heavy seed, such as beans and peas, in cloth bags; smaller seed in paper bags or envelopes. Label each bag carefully, inside and out, as to contents. To protect seed from mice put the bags in perforated tin boxes. A bread box makes an ideal storage place for seed. An upstairs room or attic room, provided it is not warm, is a very good place in which to store seed. The room must be dry and well ventilated to prevent molding. Stored seed should be occasionally ex- amined for insects. If insects or weevils are present fumigate with carbon bisulphid, a liquid which vaporizes, producing a gas heavier than air. To fumigate, place the seed in an air-tight receptacle and pour the carbon bisulphid over the seed. Open to air in from 24 to 36 hours. Use an ounce of carbon bisulphid to a bushel of seed. Car- bon bisulphid is very inflammable and fire or flame must not be taken near the fumi- gating receptacle. Disregard of this precau- tion will result in an explosion. This manual was prepared by the Commission's experts and is based on their own research and experience, supplemented by information procured from the United States Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Colleges, Experiment Stations, and other sources. The National War Garden Commission, wishing to do all within its power to aid the War Industries Board in the very necessary economy in the use of paper, has limited the edition of this book and asks those who receive it in quantity to make the most careful distribution so that the book may reach the hands of none but those who will use it. IF THE INDIVIDUAL RECIPIENT CAN NOT USE THIS BOOK IT IS URGED THAT IT BE HANDED TO SOME ONE WHO WILL USE IT. TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Cold frame and Hotbed 7 Community gardening 1 Community storage 24 Cultivation 11 DISEASES AND INSECTS 16 FERTILIZERS — Commercial 5 Compost 5 Green manure 6 INDOOR PLANTING 9 PLANTING— Continuous crops 11 Fall crops 10 Succession of crops 10 Table for planting 23 Time of planting 10 POTATOES— Growing 12 Diseases and insects 21 Storage 28 Page POTATOES, SWEET — Growing 13 Storage ; 29 SEED — Quantity to buy 9 Saving for next year 30 Testing before planting 8 SPRAYING 16 SOIL 5,7 STORAGE— Apples 29 Cellar 24 Outdoor cellar 27 Pit 26 Seed 32 Various methods 27 T>0OLS 7 UNITED STATES FOOD ADMINISTRATION MR. P. S. RIDSDALE, Secretary, National War Garden Commission, WASHINGTON, D. C. Mobile, Alabama. September 6th, 1918 Dear Mr. Ridsdale: I desire to tender my sincere thanks for the books which you have furnished for distribution and use among the war gardeners of Mobi e, and as encourage- ment ^d assistance to others to take up th:s splendid work conducive not only to increased supply of food products, but to the health and happmess of those who wfse^ygiv? Mother Ear?h the attention which just at this time she all the more richly deserves. It is needless for me to assure you that the books have been extremely helpful I consider them the most complete and serviceable ever produced, and excepting only the family Bible, the foundation of all ethics and morality as well as the commo^n law, these books are of more vital importance to every house- holder, in facTgood citizens throughout the land, than most printed matter obtainable. . , , i j Your books on canning and drying are likewise of inestimable value and vour splendid co-operation in the common cause of mcreasmg and conservmg Se food supply in our present crisis meets with the heartiest appreciation. Very sincerely, (Signed) HENRY A. FORCHHEIMER, Federal Food Administration Board. UNITED STATES FOOD ADMINISTRATION Davenport, lowa.^ September 5, 1918. MR. P. S. RIDSDALE, Secretary, National War Garden Commission, WASHINGTON, D. C. My dear Mr. Ridsdale: We have found your publications of great value in our work in this State and k gives me pleasure to thank you for your prompt and cordial compliance with all of our requests. , ^ • j Your book on War Vegetable Gardening and the one devoted to Canning and Drying are fiUed with information of great value to the gardener and housewife. It has been a source of great satisfaction to us to be able to distribute your books in every County in loL and we.have used care to place them m the hands Xeop"e who need them and who are constantly calling for just the information contained in them. We .feel that your co-operation has been of great importance. Faithfully yours, (Signed) M. L. PARKER, State Merchant Representative, Iowa Food Administration. .Pa% 000 928 780 2 After J. X. Darling, in New York Tribune. NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION A Patriotic Organization Affiliated with the Conservation Department of the American Forestry Association WASHINGTON, D. C. Charles Lathrop Pack, President. Percival S. Ridsdale, Secretary. Luther Burbank, Calif. Dr. Charles W. Eliot, Mass. Dr. Irving Fisher, Conn. Fred H. Goff, Ohio John Hays Hammond, Mass. Fairfax Harrison, Va. Hon. Myron T. Herrick, Ohio. Norman C. McLoud, Associate Secretary. Dr. John Grier Hibben, X. J. EMERSok McMillin, N. Y. Charles Lathrop Pack, N. J. A. W. Shaw, 111. Mrs. John Dickinson Sherman, 111. Capt. J. B. White, Mo. Hon. James Wilson, Iowa. P. P. Claxton, U. S. Commissioner of Education.