\% w: *?** -f: Am, /&?;/?. -*- THE RAMBLES; THROUGH VIRGINIA, TENNESSEE, ALABAMA. MISSISSIPPI AND LOUISIANA; Describing the Climate, the Manners, Customs and Religion, of the Inhabitants. IXTEHSPEBSED tflTH GEOGRAPHICAL AND POLITICAL SKETCHES BY A CITIZEN OF MARYLAND Annapolis: PRINTED BY J. GSSESfr 1828. PREFACE. WHEN I commenced the prosecution of this little work, it was my design to have been more minute in the description of those coun- tries which I have the pleasure of delineating* But upon mature deliberation, I determined to omit every thing that might tend to the unneces- sary consumption of time. Indeed the subscrip- tion price would not have justified a more elabo- rate dissertation: and the limited means of the author would have deterred him from undertak- ing it, had he not procured a certain number of subscribers. I have therefore endeavoured to pursue a course which may prove measurably profitable to some, and entertaining to all. I have felt very sensibly the want of a manuscript, which would have facilitated my humble labours considerably. I had commenced a Journal, but not entertaining the smallest idea of ever becom- ing a historian, I suffered it to be destroyed. The natural inference, therefore is, that errone- ous statements may occur; but, however natural this. inference, I can assure my readers that no error of importance will be detected. Should I happen to be wrong, they will confer a favour by giving me notice thereof. I have never taken &ny pains to acquire any but a familiar style of writing, being convinced that it is the most pleas- ing- To simplicity I have combined brevity. So wide a field does the subject of this work af- ford, that it might be made the work of years. But as small vessels should keep near the shone, I have confined myself to the narrow bounds of a IV, PREFACE. limited capacity; not presuming to imitate the gigantic powers of the literati. It has been my endeavour to state plain facts, and am persuaded that my readers will make due allowances for the deficiencies they may discover. To dwell upon the theme which Virginia af- fords, would be superfluous; for like the Declara- tion of Independence, it forms a subject which "has been hackneyed down almost to subterfuge. I have therefore confined my remarks principally to things more novel, and of course more inte resting. I have in the commencement given a sort of biographical sketch of the author; not that he has wielded his aim with Herculean strength, or has made himself conspicuous in any respect: but because the transition from immaterial to ma- terial objects renders a perusal more agreeable, Had he been reared in the school of chivalry, he might probably be enabled to swell this book to an enormous bulk; but alas! he is nothing more than a Schoolmaster. However, like other adept? in the art of building castles, he has yet a glim- mering hope, that .at some future day he will be enrolled with those who can say with Caesar of old, "Veni Vidi Vici." In conclusion, the Author would tender his sincere thanks to his patrons for their liberality, and hopes he has merited their approbation. And should he ever appear before the public again in the character of a writer, he expects to give more general satisfaction than this specimen can possibly be capable of. THE EAMBLSE, THE Author was bom on the 22d January, 1801, in Charles county, Maryland. His pa- rents, who were of high standing in society, and devoted to the interest of their children in an eminent degree, placed him under the tuition of the instructors of Charlotte Hall School, which is situated in St. Mary's county, near the line of demarcation between that and Charles county. There he finished his education in the year 1818. In 1819 he commenced the duties' of a teacher, but at the expiration of that year he became dis- satisfied, being of a roving disposition, and re- solved to pursue some other occupation ior a live- lihood. Accordingly, the next year he took up- on himself the management of his father's es- tate, (who died on the 10th January 1815.) He continued in this capacity for two years; after which time he resolved to seek his fortune in some other occupation. He therefore betook himself to Baltimore, hoping to obtain employ- ment: but after remaining th^'e for some time, and failing in his wishes fl e proceeded to Leo- nard-Town, in S' Gary's county, where he was employed a** teacher, and received the appoint- ment r^ Justice of the Peace. He remained here to* two years, during which time he experienced the first shock of the vicissitudes incident to this life, although he met with a hospitable reception from the inhabitants. At length he came to the conclusion, that the little state of Maryland G THE UAMBLKH, would not afford a sufficient field for his wild and romantic views. He concluded to explore the country beyond the Allegany mountains. All things being in readiness, he left the old domi- cile for the vast and fertile regions of the South and West, on the 20th July 1825. Having cross- ed the Potomac river and landed at Dumfries, a respectable and hospitable village in Virginia, si- tuated at the head of a creek which empties into the Potomac, about 30 miles below Alexandria, D. C. I proceeded to Warrington, the county seat of Fauquier, about 40 miles from Dumfries, and remained in the neighbourhood for some weeks, enjoying all the hospitality which is cha- racteristic, particularly of this part of Virginia. During my stay there, I visited daily a sulphur spring in Culpepper county, a few miles from Warrington, and received infinite benefit there- from. This water is strongly impregnated, and well calculated for persons of billious habits. It is disagreeable at first, but a few glasses will ere- ate a fondness for it 5 and the more you drink the more you want. The surrounding country here is mostly barren, though there are some fine spe- cimens of agricultural skill. One who is not pro- ficient in tfv« art of improving lands, would sup- pose, that in a n-ountainous country like this, they would not be su reDt ible of improvement. Yet the reverse is obviously w ne# By me ans of clover and plaister, which are admw>bly adapted to the soil, the face of nature presents to tii* ev e f the traveller a romantic and luxuriant prosper There are many interesting scenes in this coun- try, among which is a pile or mountain of rocks, impending the road, at least 150 feet perpendicu^ lar height, which seem to threaten inevitable de- THE RAMBLER. 7 struction to the passenger. And the* sublimity of the scene was increased by a torrent of limpid water rushing from the mountain. This tempta- tion was irresistible to one wearied with fatigue and thirst; I accordingly dismounted, and regaled myself with the cooling draught, and could not forbear exclaiming, ''How wonderous are thy works O Omnipotent God." This interesting scene is in Fauquier county, near an inland village called Haymarket. About the middle of August 1825, I left very reluctantly this hospitable country, and proceeded to Culpepper court- house, where I tarried a short time, and was much amused at the groups of young and old men. who carried the bloom of health upon their faces, ban- tering each other about their poneys and sweet- hearts, which as I am told the Virginians were ever wont to do, nay indeed have a right, for no people perhaps can boast of finer horses and more interesting lasses, than they. Thence I proceed- ed to Bottecourt Springs, passing through many little towns, and a very interesting country. The water here is more strongly impregnated with sulphur than perhaps any in the United States. And it is a singular fact, that there are two streams only a few feet distant from each other, one of which issues sulphureous water of the strongest kind, and the other pure and pleasant limestone. So that the weary traveller finds at once a re- storative to health, and a luxurious remedy for thirst. In addition to these rich effusions of kind nature, art has made herself conspicuous; for the indefatigable owner has manifested his disposition to please by providing every thing calculated to produce comfort and ease. These springs are .situated in the county w T hose name they 5 bear ? a & THE RAMBLER. few miles from the valley road, upon a considera- ble eminence, which affords a romantic spectacle. I continued my journey from thence to Char- lottesville, the capital of Albemarle county. This city is near a small branch of James river, and has many lasting monuments of the enterprising spirit of its illustrious founder, Thomas Jefferson, among which is the University of Virginia, a very splendid building, from which the observer has a full view of Monticello, the residence of the vene- rable patriarch, who is now no more. In viewing this scene, and contemplating the inevitable dissolution, 'ere long, of the great pro- jector of its improvements, the emphatic words of Solomon occurred to my mind — "All is vanity and vexation of spirit. " And on the 4th of July following, these words were verified, both in the death of Mr. Jefferson, and Mr. Adams, whose decease served to render that memorable day, in- finitely more so; they being two of those illustri- ous freemen who dared to abjure allegiance to the imperious crown of Britain. And our hap- py country is now enjoying the rich fruits of the benign influence of their patriotic zeal, and in- flexible adherence to the innate principles of liberty and independence. And while the voice of these martyrs, with Washington at their head, is heard and revered, the bright ornaments of re- publicanism, of which they were the principal ar- chitects, will stand impregnable to the vassals who ignominiously bend to the absolute will of crown- ed heads. And may the God of battles avert the danger which is now impending from the great question of electing a President. The nation is upon a pivot whose deviation from the centre? I fear will involve her in difficulties which will THE RAMBLER. 9 transcend the skill of chieftains to remedy. So far from saying that opposition in republican go- vernment is improper, I believe it has the most salutary eifect. . But I affirm boldly and fearless- ly, that the violence of the present opposition, is Jacobinical, treasonable, and if successful, will subvert both the spirit and the letter of our con- stitution, at some future day. It therefore be- hoves those who would preserve it in its original purity, to repel the invasions of /'would be rul- ers/' not b^ the force of arms, but by a deter- mined ana resolute adherence to the noble exam- ple of our forefathers; that the gray hairs of their descendants may not go . down in sorrow to the grave. Thence we proceeded to Abingdon, near the Tennessee line. The journey was extremely in- teresting, particularly as we passed the main bo- dy of the Blue Ridge, which divides east from west Virginia. Upon reaching the summit of the mountain which, as well as I recollect, was four miles from the base, a new world, as it were, presented itself to the view. The vast expanse below was thickly covered with trees, which, with the fog ascending, forms in similitude a boundless ocean. This pass through the moun- tain is called by the inhabitants Rockiish Gap. We found water very scarce until we had gained the summit, but there we were amply repaid by a profusion of the most delicious water, and the most refreshing breezes. The climate, after pass- ing this mountain, is altogether different from that on the east side. For on that side we found lit- tle comfort in sleeping without covering, but on this side, although in the heat of summer, a cou- ple of blankets were quite comfortable. And 10 THE RAMBLEK, thus it continued until we passed the Cumberland mountains. Before we left these mountains, we passed through a village by the name of Waynes- borough, inhabited principally by Dutch settlers. The salubrity of the climate, added to their sim- ple mode of living, render them remarkably healty and athletic. I inquired of an old Dutch- man concerning the health of the place; his an- swer was, that he was then 70 years of age, and had never experienced a day's sickness. This assertion, I am disposed to believe, Sfom the old man's appearance, for although his head was sil- vered o'er with age, he continued to look as vi- gorous as one in the prime of life. It is amusing to observe the Dutch lasses mowing and securing hay. The old folks lead the van, and the young ones follow their file leaders, all with their long pipes in their mouths. If there is any real hap- piness in this life, surely they enjoy it; for their remoteness from the scenes of bustle and dissipa- tion, pomp and parade, render them impervious to the allurements of vice. They have no ne- groes, and hold slavery in utter abhorence; so much so, that traders passing through the coun- try can with difficulty procure accommodations, even for double pay. The religion of the inha- bitants of this, as well as all west Virginia, is af- ter the order, principally of Methodists, Bap- tists, Tunkers, &c. In East Virginia, Protestants, Romanists, and Presbyterians are found. Poli- tics they neither know or care any thing about. Abingdon is a very flourishing town, erected up- on a hill, and affords a very cheap market for the surrounding country. Although there is no com- munication with the eastern cities, except by land, which is a journey of 400 miles to the near- THE RAMBLER. 11 est point, Baltimore, goods of every description may be bought at the retail prices of the same. ' The population of this place is about 1200. Be- ing now near the Tennessee line we presently crossed it, and pursued our journey through the wilderness, not a little annoyed at night by the howling of wild beasts, which are very numerous, consisting of wolves, panthers, bears, deer, &c. The sight of a candle, or the blaze of a fire, pro- duces the greatest consternation among these in- habitants of the western wilds. Though a glim- mering light does not produce the same conse- quence. They at any rate venture after a while, to peep, in order to see what wonders man is ca- pable of working. Sometimes their curiosity in- duces them to approach too near, and are there- by taken by the artful huntsman. The bear is so destructive to corn, that settlers, who are very few, can scarcely secure a sufficiency for family consumption, without the utmost vigilance. The wolf is equally destructive to sheep, and other domestic animals. Deer, which is the principal food of these lonely inhabitants, is both whole- some and palatable, particularly when young. Wild Turkeys are very abundant here, which I think are not inferior to domestic ones as to fla- vour. The next place of importance through which we passed, was Knoxville, in East Tennes- see, situated on the Holston, near its junction with French Broad River. It is upon an eminence, and yet owing to the continued succession of mountains, you find yourself in the midst of the town, as it were, before you see it. It is said to he very healthy. Population about 2000. It contains a church for all denominations nearly, except Romanists, Presbyterians and Baptists 12 THE RAMBLER. are much the more numerous.. There is a seel of christians who call themselves Cumberland Presbyterians, who are between Presbyterians and Methodists, for they resemble in some in- stances both these denominations, but differ from both in others. They derive their name proba- bly from the Cumberland mountains which they inhabit, and. their disciples are very numerous in Alabama, and other places contiguous to them. The descent from this to Alabama is most asto- nishing. The imagination is led from the con- templation of innumerable and stupendous moun- tains and cataracts, to that of an immeasurable plain, embellished with all the varieties of na- ture. The contrast is so great that upon arriv- ing in Alabama, a retrospective view presents an upper and a lower world, between which, to all appearance, there is no possible communication. This appearance continues until the view is ob- structed by the Atlantic, which severs this from the old world. In this country republicanism is manifested in every sense of the word. One had as well attempt to buffet the Falls of Niagara as to resist the will of the people; so tenacious are they of their rights; and if they knew how to temper it, would be productive of the most salu- tary effects. But alas! the fallibility of man leads him to undervalue immediate blessings, when there is a prospect of attaining a greater. The Tennesseeans value themselves much in the art of shooting, and very deservedly too. They frequently assemble with their rifles in or- der to amuse themselves at their favourite sport. Sometimes they challenge the Kentuckians, who are not inferior to them, for a combat. And the conquerors exult as much in a victory of this THE B AMBLER J 13 kind, as ever General Jackson did, when he routed the Indians. They are remarkably plain and hospitable to strangers, sparing no pains to make them comfortable, and on the most moderate terms. They are generally illiterate, but possess uncommon susceptibility. Much to the credit of the state, they are making great improve- ments in literature, there being several literary institutions of respectability. They are admira- bly calculated {or soldiers, having been inured to hardships, and nourished in the bosom of re- publicanism. Their politics are of course at va- riance with those of the more northern states, the one being agricultural, and the other commer- cial. We stopped at Winchester in Franklin county, which is about 60 miles from Huntsille, Alabama. There is a court-house, a church, and a respecta- ble literary institution in this place. Population about 300. The Jackson fever prevails here with great violence, and is peculiarly obnoxious to strangers. They have no idea of oak, but rally around the hickory tree. I observed that "al- though hickory makes the best fire, yet oak was the monarch of the woods, and combined many good qualities.' 5 This expression raised the Irish blood of a huge waggoner, to such a degree, that I was glad to take shelter under a lock and key. This independent spirit I admire in the Tennes- seeans, as I am fully persuaded that it proceeds from an ardent devotion to the hero of Orleans; for not being used to great men, they naturally conclude that he is the greatest of men. What greater exploits could any man boast of, say they, than saving a great city, and that too, by cotton bales? Who but Jackson would have thought of 14 THE RAMBLER." such a thing? These and the like queries de- monstrate their infatuation. It is far from my intention to derogate from the General's merits, for it is well known that he has gained imperish- able laurels. But I am only stating plain facts, which I stand pledged to do in my preface to this work. And if my Jackson friends impute my motives to prejudice or aversion to him who so gloriously fought and bled for his country, and whose dread name causes proud Britain to quake with fear, I would inform them that they are much mistaken. I adore his bravery and repub- lican independence, and sincerely hope he may receive the reward which awaits the brave and the generous. But allow me to say that these are riot all the qualifications requisite for the Presi- dent of a great and enlightened nation. No, the lasting foundation of a government depends upon sagacious and experimental views of what has been done, and may be done to render the de- signed object of long duration. The momenta- ry effusions of patriotic zeal, are not calculated to place the destinies of a nation upon a firm "basis; but on the contrary, calm, deliberate and dispassionate penetration, into the effects that might be produced by the plan proposed. The reverse of this, mostly proves in the words of Cato, "the wreck of matter, and the crush of worlds." Winchester is in the midst of a very fertile and healthful country, producing cotton, tobacco, corn, &c. But the former is the staple. All of these commodities grow to the greatest perfection. Peaches, from which large quanti- ties of brandy are distilled, are remarkably fine and abundant. The inhabitants are very hospita- ble. Before I take leave of Tennessee, it will THE RAMBLER. 15 \e satisfactory to say something about the Ten- nessee river. It seems to flow from every point of the compass, owing to the meandering course it pursues. I crossed it five times in travelling from Knoxville to Florence, which is not 200 miles. This, of course, must make the naviga- tion very tedious, particularly as it is navigable only for keel or flat boats, to the Muscle Shoals* After passing them, it is navigable for steam-boats to its junction with the Ohio. Fish are very a- bundant, such as trouts, catfish, bullfish, and others. This being fresh water, there are no oysters or crabs. It is said to be very unhealthy immediately on the river, owing to the disagree- able smell of the waters, and to very dense and heavy fogs, which at night and morning obstruct the faculty of breathing very materially. Hence the billious tendency of the climate. Having arrived at Huntsville in Alabama, abou€ the first of September, which is considered the most sickly season, and having been informed by the credulous yeomen that it was certain death to enter it that season, I could not divest myself of timidity for a short time. A few miles from town I met several families who were moving, and this served to increase my fears, supposing that they were driven by the fever. But I soon found that I had been misinformed; health and beauty seem- ed to be depicted not only on the fair, but on eve- ry thing else. Huntsville is a very flourishing inland town, situated 9 miles from Tennessee ri- ver, and about 30 miles from the Tennessee line. It is by far the most healthy city in the state; and possesses every advantage which the most fertile country, and the most central location could ad- mit, It affords a market not only to its more im- 1G THE RAMBLE, mediate neighbours, but to a considerable por tion of East Tennessee. It is built upon a square, the streets cutting each other at right angles. In the centre is a space of probably half a square acre of ground, upon which the court-house, market, and other public buildings stand; and this space is surrounded by buildings not inferior to those of the eastern cities. In this centre is concentrated the principal business of the place. It shows evident marks of enterprise and wealth; and only lacks facility of navigation, to make it equal to any in the southern country. Popula- tion about 3000. There is a respectable semi- nary in the suburbs, very pleasantly situated. It contains also three churches. One great acqui- sition to the health of the city which few of the southern cities possess, is a spring at least 20 yards in circumference, and navigable for keel boats. It is pure limestone water, issuing from a rock by several avenues. The base of this con- cretion of rocks is about 60 feet perpendicularly below the level of the city. And from the spring, water is conveyed by aqueducts to most of the houses, where it ascends in hydrants, and unless disposed to walk, the inhabitants have no more trouble in getting water than to hold a vessel through a window and draw the quantity desired. This spring, it is supposed, will afford a sufficient quantity of water for a canal. The enterprising citizens, therefore, had it in contemplation to cut one from thence to the Tennessee river, which would facilitate the water communication won- derfully. Huntsville was once the metropolis of the state, afterwards Cahawba, and in 1825 Tus- caloosa was made the seat of government. It is highly probable that Tuscumbia will be chosea THE RAMBLER- If for that purpose at no distant period. Alabama is almost exclusively settled by emigrants from Virginia. The form of government is very ana- logous to that of Maryland. Presbyterians, Me- thodists and Baptists, are the principal religion- ists. Slaves are very numerous, exceeding the white population in a proportion of probably hvt to one. This renders the most rigid discipline necessary for the protection of the country. Cot- ton, which is the staple, grows to great perfecti- on. Vegetables of every description are scarce, except potatoes, owing either to the soil or to ne- glect; the latter is most probable. I am here speaking of what is called North Alabama, as it is very different from South. Athens, about 25 miles from Huntsville, is a healthy place, con- taining about 300 inhabitants. It is the me- tropolis of Limestone county. Courtland, 20 miles from Athens, is a flourishing little place, but said to be unhealthy. The surrounding coun- try is very fertile. I proceeded next to Tuscum- bia in Franklin county, about 60 miles from Hunts* ville, and a few miles below the Muscle Shoals in Tennessee river. It was first settled by the Indians, and derived its name therefrom. It was formerly known by the name of "Big Spring," from the immense size of the spring, which is equal, if not superior, to that at Huntsville. Tus- cumbia although surrounded by rivals, is rising above them by rapid paces. It is on the north side of Tennessee river, and Florence on the south, four miles distant. Florence is the only barrier to her gaining a rank among populous and wealthy cities at no distant period. They are both beautifully situated in sight of each other* Florence has the advantage in age ; and conse- 18 THE RAMBLER, quently has more improvements, but it being ou the south side of the river, the stench of the wa- ter is conveyed by the winds, which renders it obnoxious to malignant fevers at certain seasons. The competition is very great between the two aspirants, and must terminate in the preponde- rance of one, and the former being favoured with health, will most probably be the one. The population of each is about twelve hundred. These towns form the principal depot of north Alabama. Cotton is conveyed from thence to the head of steam boat navigation in flats and keel boats, which is 30 miles. It is then con- veyed to New Orleans in steam boats. Those who are unwilling to incur the expense of freight* carry their produce the whole route (1500 miles) In flat boats; for such is the rapidity of the cur- rent in some places, that they will float from 9 to 10 miles an hour. Indians are numerous in this region, and enhance the trade of Tuscumbia ve- ry much. They furnish the inhabitants with deer,' turkeys, &c. for which they receive goods. Some of them are monied men; these of course are very desirable customers, as they will have nothing but specie; whereas the money of the State consists mostly of corporation notes of from 1 cent, to 5 and 10 dollars; as every merchant of standing has the privilege of issuing notes. Some of these Indians are intelligent men, and seem to have a control over their savage propensities; hut the great mass of them are depraved and worthless. Drunkenness and thieving are very predominant, and yet they are perfectly good natured. They will sell the last blanket for a bottle of rum, if it cannot be obtained other- wist. Their ^etiquejLfee -in drinking is amusing? THE RAMBLER. 19 men, women and children seat themselves on the ground in a circle, in the centre of which is placed the bottle, and the eldest first takes a pull, and with joy sparking in his eyes, he exclaims, "Chicama fena!" that is "very good!" He then hands it to his left hand neighbour, who also twiggs it, and so it continues until they have all tivigged. The Sage then fills his pipe with the dried leaves of a shrub called sumac, takes a whiff and passes it around. The bottle and pipe being handed around twice or thrice alternately, they begin to hear "Ned" thumping at the up- per story windows! This rouses them, and they give a tremendous shout, and commence the sa- vage dance, with hands locked together. They continue this until they are exhausted; they then sock Ned once more, and afterwards commence socking each other most manfully. In these re- velling dances I could not distinctly hear any particular word of the song, except a repe- tition of he! he! he! he! in a tone resembling that of a beehive, but tremendously loud. The ut- most vigilance is requisite to keep them from pil- fering when they enter a store, for they possess great dexterity in that art. The clothing of the men consists entirely of a bandage around their waists, mockasins, and sometimes blankets. The women wrap a blanket around the shoulders in such a manner as to form a bag behind, in which they carry their infants, making an appearance resembling that of one with two heads. As it re- spects their religion, they believe in rewards and punishments, of course a Supreme Being. They say "a good Indian goes to a fine hunting ground when he dies, but a bad one goes down yonder," meaning no doubt -some place of punishment, 20 THE RAMBLER. Some of them own slaves and cultivate the soil upon a large scale. Those negroes who have liv- ed with them are unwilling to change their situ- ations: of course they receive humane treatment. The climate of Alabama would be healthy, I believe, were it not for local causes of disease. There are not many swamps, but an infinite num- ber of prairies, formed by the irregularity of the earth s surface. Although it is far from being a mountainous country, it resembles the waves of the sea in form. The prairies, or vacant ground, formed thereby, are filled in the winter or rainy season, with water, which frequently render the whole country impassible, without great danger of being drowned. This water absorbs gradual- ly as warm weather approaches, and leaves an insupportable smell, which infects the whole sur- rounding atmosphere, and hence proceed fevers of the most violent nature. I could not perceive any natural difference between the degrees of heat here, and that of Maryland, but the long continuation of summer makes the difference. Some winters are very cold, others very mild. The timber consists of oak, hickory, &c. of pro- digious size. The sugar maple is also very abun- dant, from which a considerable quantity of in- ferior sugar is made. The first step towards mak- ing this sugar is to cut through the sap with an axe, and then place a trough to catch the juice which runs from it. This juice is boiled down to a consistency of sugar. With regard to the politics of this state, none of its sisters can boast of a more republican sys- tem of government. Every officer, from the le- gislator down to the constable, is elected by the immediate voice of the people. And we, of the THE RAMBLER. 21 middle states, cannot, dare not behold the repub- lican purity of our brethren of the south with- out a blush. There liberty glows with meridian splendor. There the paltry distinctions between parties are not recognized, but all are free to act and to speak without incurring the invidious epi- thet of "apostate," merely because one is open to conviction, and resolves to amend his ways. Whereas our demagogues preach eternally about the rights of freemen, holding them forth, very plausibly, as immaculate; and at the same time are indirectly and vaingloriously exterminating them by actions inconsistent with their profes- sions. The true spirit of "seventy-six" is enve- loped in the smoke of modern republicanism; that is to say, jacobinism alias caucussing. Pardon me, fellow citizens, for these sentiments proceed not from prejudice, but from an anxious solicitude for the prosperity of that country which I proudly say gave me birth; and for the defence of which I pledge my life and all that is dear to me, when it becomes necessary. On the 1st February 1826, we left Tuscum- bia, and proceeded down the Tennessee in a steam boat. The bottom of this river is a con- tinued mass of limestone, as are also the banks on either side, which form a complete rampart. Were it navigable for vessels of war, these stone walls, formed by nature, would prove an insupe- rable barrier to their passage either down or up, with a little art, particularly as the river is so narrow in some places as scarcely to admit the passage of two vessels at once; and thus it con- tinues to its junction with the Ohio. The Ohio is a most beautiful river, affording a great abun- dance oi such fish as are found in- the Tennessee, && THE RAMBLE*, But the water rises and falls frequently once in three or four weeks, so that the navigation is ve- ry uncertain. It pursues a more direct course than the Tennessee, and empties into the Missis- sippi. The course of the Mississippi is so wind- ing that it resembles the pipe of a distillery more than any thing else. The distance from the Mus- cle Shoals to New Orleans by land, is about 400 miles, by water it is upwards of 1500 miles. There is a place in this river which is so circui- tous that by water it is 60 miles, and the neck of land between is not more than one mile. New Madrid, a small village, is situated not far from this bend, immediately on the banks of the river. This place is famed in the western country for its liability to earthquakes. Shocks are frequent- ly felt, but with no other damage, as yet, than the falling in of earth. It is to be feared that in some of those convulsions of subterraneous mat- ter, the village will be consigned to a watery grave. It is admirably situated for the commerce of the upper country, and labours under no other disadvantage than the one above mentioned. After a passage of 15 days, and touching upon the coasts of Mississippi, Ohio, Illinois, Arkan- sas and Kentucky, all of which are bounded part- ly by the Mississippi, we arrived at Natchez, the largest town in Mississippi state. This city is situated on the left bank descending the Missis- sippi river, in 31° 33' north latitude, and 300 miles above New Orleans. It contains a court- house, a Catholic church, a Presbyterian meet- ing house, a market, &c. and about 3000 inhabi- tants. It is the most beautiful city of its size probably in America, and in the centre of the most ferule countrv in the world. Its commerce TflE RAMBLER. 23 is very considerable. Washington, which was once the seat of government, is on St. Catharine's creek, about 6 miles east of Natchez, containing 1000 inhabitants. Monticello the metropolis of the state, stands on Pearl river, 90 miles east of Natchez, in north latitude 31° 33', and 13° west longitude from Washington. The citizens of Natchez and Washington are peculiarly hospita- ble. It seems to be their chief delight to enter- tain strangers, and the greatest harmony and so- cial intercourse exists among them. At Wash- ington there is a very respectable female semina- ry, superintended by the Rev. Mr. Burriss. Trom February until June, which is the time of high water in the Mississippi, it affords great amusement at Natchez to see the innumerable steam boats, flat boats and keel boats, plying be- fore the almost irresistible current of the river. The whole country seems to be afloat. Trees of prodigious size, and infinite in number, are seen floating down, which sometimes prove fatal to boats. And to cap the climax, crows, buzzards and cranes, take their stand upon these floating logs, and move in the most majestic style, with their heads erect, and with all the pomp of a fleet In battle array. I cannot conceive why they at- tach themselves to the logs, except that they take a pride in imitating man; for there can be nothing in these logs for them to prey upon except insects, which we all know are beneath their notice. They 3 suppose, like other great folks, are fond of ease, and like to inhale the pleasant breezes of the Mis- sissippi, without the trouble of flying. Natchez being on an eminence affords a very sublime view of the surrounding country. Its prominent situ- ation, like that of men in power, most proba- £4 THE RAMBLED bly proves destructive to it in point of health.. For here the south winds, which are common, con- centrate all the obnoxious effluvia of the neigh- bouring bogs and marshes and produce a train of diseases which at cei tain seasons render the city uninhabitable without imminent danger, particu- larly emigrants. Sugar, cotton and rice, are the principal commodities for exportation, and that of the best quality. Some indigo is also made. Some parts of Mississippi state are remarkably healthy, but local causes render it generally unhealthy to emigrants for the first two years after arriving there. After undergoing what is called "a sea- soning," one is as safe there as in any other place. The most barren parts of the state are most heal- thy, and the most fertile parts the most sickly; so that health and poverty seem to be identified, and wealth and disease inseparable. The pine woods (so called,) are a very safe and pleasant summer retreat, as they afford excellent spring water, fish in the greatest abundance, deer and wild turkeys. These bounteous gifts of the God of Nature, are converted into means of recreation to those who are fond of hunting, fishing, &c. The laws of this state are truly republican. All religious sects are found; but Presbyterians and Methodists are predominant. There are some Indians of dif- ferent tribes. I continued my journey from Natchez to A- lexandria, which is situated on either side of Red river, 150 miles from its junction with the Mississippi, in Rapide Parish, Louisiana, con- taining a court-house, a bank, an academy, &c. It is the principal 4epot of the parish. It was once renowned for chivalry, but as native Ameri- cans have gained the ascendancy, it has wrought THE RAMBLEIU 25 a material change. The citizens are not excelled by any in politeness. As the French are very numerous, and have always excelled in polite- ness, their manners and customs are adopted here, and every other place in the state. This part of Louisiana possesses greater facilities in naviga- tion than is generally supposed; for Red river and its little tributaries alone, are great conveni- ences. Independent of this, the numerous bay- ous, or fresh water creeks, which are now not navigable, may with some little expense and la- bour be rendered navigable for barges. This improvement might be made by clearing the tim- ber, which alone obstructs the navigation. Each planter would then have a landing place at his door, for the principal settlements are upon the bayous. Bayou Robert, about 18 miles from A- lexandria, and Bayou BeofF 8 miles farther, are admirably calculated for this purpose. The wa- ter flows from them into Red river, which is al- ways navigable for small steam-boats up to the rapids, one or two miles above Alexandria. In improving the navigation, the health of the country would be greatly improved, for those bayous conceal a great quantity of stagnant water, which renders it obnoxious to disease. The two above named, extend hundreds of miles, and the lands adjoining are vastly fertile. Cotton, which is the staple of this part of the state, grows to the greatest perfection. Chanyville village, lately built, is in this parish, about 30 miles distant from Alexandria. It promises to be a respectable town. Natchitoches (pronounced Nakitosh) is situated on Red river, about 60 miles above Alexandria, and not many miles from the Mexican settlements. It is principally inhabited by the French and 3 26 THE Jl AMBLER. Spaniards, containing a population of 1,000. It is more healthy than Alexandria. There are several salt springs here from which salt is made. Tobacco and indigo grow spontaneously in all parts of Louisiana. Nakitosh is not very far from the scene of bustle and carnage created by a party of jacobins, which I am told was composed principally of American miscreants, who had re- sorted to that country, in order to escape justice. They, with the Indians and a few natives, under- took to form a little republic. They named themselves the Fredonians, and called a congress, who made a formal declaration of Independence, absolving themselves from the government of Mexico. The Fredonians were successful in the commencement of their warfare, but soon found that Mexican powder was too strong for them to smell, they therefore quickly sued for peace. They are now probably convinced, that repub- lics are not to be constructed by banditti, who were compelled to flee from justice. If emi- grants to foreign countries find themselves op- pressed by their adopted rulers, and become dis- satisfied, it is a duty incumbent upon them, either to submit patiently, otherwise remove, for A- mericans at least are free, and go and come at: pleasure. If there is not room in other countries for their rumsoaked carcases, they will find this vast continent amply sufficient to hold them, and as many other topers, tunkers and huksters as they could bring. If they are without money, I would refer them to an anecdote of an officer. This anecdote, though obscene, is so strikingly illustrative, that I hope a repetition of it will not give offence. "An officer being cashiered for cowardice, commenced his journey homeward. THE RAMBLER. 27 moneyless. He presently arrived at an Inn. The landlord, dazzled with the appearance of his suit of armour^ made splendid preparations for his en- tertaimcnt depending upon the liberality of the gentleman for compensation. The banquet being ready the host partook of it, and was merry with wine. He rose from the table, and after stretch- ing himself a little, addressed the landlord thus. ••'Sir I suppose there is no ripping of guts here? The landlord taking the hint, replied" no but there is kicking of a " so saying he kicked this son of thunder out of the house. Rough treatment this truly, but such as we pennyless wanderers are subject to. A reptile,, peculiar to Mexico, is found in Nakatosh county, called the Centapede. It resembles very much a reptile vul- garly called "thousand legs" only much larger. It is composed of a crustaceous substance, and an infinite number of thongs resembling those of the animal above mentioned, which they use as wea- pons. They attach themselves to the object of their ievenge with these fangs, and inflict hun- dreds of poisonous wounds at once. The poison is said to be incurable. It is commonly about 4 inches in length and If in breadth. The inhabi- tants on Red river have a very pleasant and healthy retreat from the intense heat of summer, and the humid atmosphere occasioned by the effluvia of the river, and swamps. I mean the pinewoods, which are on the mountainous order, and shaded by the luxurious growth of pine, which are very large, and afford a sufficient space between them for passing without interruption from limbs* Here is the best water, and a great variety of fish, deer, turkeys, ducks, &c. It is perhaps the finest grazing country in the west. One may 28 THE RAMBLER/ spend the summer in ease and safety, enjoying all the pleasures of fishing, hunting, and bath- ing. In one of my excursions I discovered the joint snake, a very great curiosity. It is commonly about 3 feet in length, of a most beautiful variety of colours. A very slight blow with a whip, causes them to break into several pieces, without any appearance of blood. They are perfectly harmless. Rattle snakes, and others, are numer- ous. Alligators are very numerous in Red river, and the Mississippi. They are destructive to hogs, and other small animals that frequent the banks of the river. Their mode of killing their prey is to seize them with their mouths, and then thrash them with their tails until dead. They then feast upon the carcase at leisure. They are of various sizes, from 3 to 25 feet in length. Their colour on the back is a kind of rusty black, their bellies are of a whitish cast. In form they resemble a lizzard very much, having four awk- ward looking legs. The state of Louisiana is divided into parishes and counties. Each parish is represented in the legislature by two delegates elected by the peo- ple for two years, and one" senator. Each parish has also a judge, whose jurisdiction is confined to his parish and to civil cases. He is also the register of the parish. There is another judge whose jurisdiction extends to different parishes, according to the size of the county, as some coun- ties contain more parishes than others. He de- termines criminal cases and others of importance. There are also three supreme judges whose ju- risdiction extends throughout the state. They visit each parish once annually. There are like- THE RAMBLER,. 29 v.ise justices of the peace who adjudicate ac- counts not exceeding 50 dollars. The sheriff of each parish is reco mm ended by a number of re- spectable citizens of his parish, to the governor, who puts him in nomination before the senate, and if it meet their approbation they appoint him for three years. This office in some parish- es is said to be worth $20,000 for the term. The climate is affected by a variety of causes, par- ticularly by the annual inundation of the Mis- sissippi and Red rivers. A number of lakes border those rivers, some of them having once been their channel, are more or less subject to stagnation. A marshy region winds along the whole length of the sea shore. To the above causes must be added the prevailing south winds. From this enumeration, the diseases of Louisiana can be easily deduced. They are intermittent, remittent, and billious fevers. In the higher parts of the state the climate is healthy. If the south winds are attended with humidity, it pro- duces weakness and debility. The sea coast is subject to hurricanes in the months of Septem- ber and October. North and northwest winds blow occasionally in March; spring commences in this month, and in April vegetation is very ra- pid. The summer heats commence in May, and continue to November. Rain falls plentifully in spring, and in torrents in October. The Catho- lic is the prevailing religion. I proceeded from Alexandria to New Orleans which is about 280 miles, and presents the most fascinating prospect the whole distance, that the imagination could conceive. The majestic ap- pearance of the Mississippi, the innumerable and beautiful villages, the luxuriance of vegetation, 3"^ JO THE RAMBLER. sugar cane in particular, and the magnificent and splendid edifices all combined, create a lively re- trospective view of Babylon, Paradise and an- cient Alexandria. One is led irresistibly to de- plore that a country so blessed with the most mu- nificent effusions of nature, should by her be made the seat of corporeal desolation. New Or- leans is the principal town and the capital of the state. It is situated on the left bank of the Mis- sissippi, in north latitude 29° 57', and west lon- gitude from Washington 13° 9', from which it is distant about 1300 miles. The principal public buildings are the town-house, the hospital, the Cathedral of St. Louis, the Nunnery, the cus- tom house, the market house and government house. Besides these it contains an American and a French Theatre, a French college, an Epis- copal, two Presbyterian, and a Methodist church. Also several banks and insurance companies, and a garrison. It is 90 miles from the Bellisle Balize which forms the entrance of the Mississip- pi into the Gulf of Mexico. Its population is probably composed of some from every nation on the globe, amounting to about 30,000 permanent inhabitants. But during the busy season, (which is from February to June,) the population is much greater. New Orleans is the grand depot of the produce brought down the Mississippi and its various tributaries. In commercial importance therefore, this state is little inferior to some of its older sisters. The city is surrounded with lakes almost forming a complete island. The old part of the town which is called French-Town, is badly constructed, the most of the streets be- ing almost too narrow for two coaches to pass. This renders it more subject to sickness than it THE RAMBLER. 31 would otherwise be. The new part, which is in- habited principally by American, Irish and En- glish emigrants, is much better constructed; the streets being spacious but badly paved as yet. The levee which is in front of the town, and run- ning with the river, serves both as a preventive from inundation, and as a landing place for ves- sels. It is a permanent construction of logs and earth, and presents a handsome view from the river. It is a substitute for wharves, which can- not be constructed on account of the great rise and fall of the river. Here all the commercial business of the city is centered, and creates a scene of confusion not excelled by a retreating army. The great variety of languages, sexes and forms, are truly interesting to a stranger. On the levee are temporary stands for pedlars, for which they pay license. No liquors are al- lowed to be retailed under a heavy penalty. Rum, sugar, molasses and indigo, are manufactur- ed in and near the city. The different fruits and garden vegetables are to be had all seasons of the year. Grapes, sweet oranges and figs, flourish. Fish and fowl of every kind are to be had in the greatest abundance. It is only two or three days sail from this city to Havana, which gives an op- portunity of enjoying all the luxuries of the West India Islands, without much trouble or ex- pense. It is very extraordinary that the banks of the Mississippi, as well as those of Red river, are much higher than the adjoining land; and as you recede from them the greater the descent is. This renders the levee indispensible, as the whole country would be inundated in time of high wa- ter, which is frequently 40 or 50 feet above low water mark. Indeed; it sometimes rises above 32 THE RAMBLER. the levee, and then it has no entrance into the ri- ver again, hut makes its way to the ocean. This causes a great quantity of stagnant water. The levee extends on either side of the river from New Orleans nearly to Natchez. Between those two cities is tide water; this coming into contact with the rapid torrent descending from above, causes a convulsion which seems to threaten de- struction to all around. Above Natchez it is not so, for there is no tide water. In March and April there is an infinite number of steam and flat boats at New Orleans, which descend the Mississippi; also many ships and other vessels which come coastwise. The Yankees with their codfish and potatoes do well. The Kentuckians and Tennesseans with their bacon, cider,