GopghtN^ 
 
 COPyRIGHT DEPOSIT. 
 
TWENTY- ONE YEARS 
 IN INDIA 
 
 By 
 
 REV. J. L. HUMPHREY, M. D. 
 
 CINCINNATI : JENNINGS AND GRAHAM 
 NEW YORK: EATON AND MAINS 
 
iiOPV tJ. 
 
 COPYRIGHT, 1905, BY 
 JBNNINGS AND GRAHAM 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 A i^Ew words in the way of preface may not 
 be out of place. I am aware that much has been 
 written about India late years, and that there may 
 not seem to be a demand for another book on that 
 subject. I have only to say, that much remains 
 unknown still to our people here at home about 
 that country and people, and about the great work 
 going on there. It fell to my lot in the provi- 
 dence of God to be associated with the work of 
 our Church there in its very beginning, and what 
 I have written may be of some value farther on 
 when the history of our Mission in India is writ- 
 ten up. I have seen the work expand from its 
 very first inception to the great proportions it has 
 now attained. God has indeed done great things 
 for us ; but there are undoubtedly greater things 
 in store for us in the future. I wish to record 
 with others the goodness of the Lord seen in com- 
 
 3 
 
4 Preface. 
 
 moil with them. Perhaps something here men- 
 tioned may not have been mentioned by others, 
 and so may contribute to the general fund of 
 knowledge which has accumulated as the years 
 have been going by. I feel it, indeed, to be a 
 very great honor to have had a part with our 
 noble band of workers for Christ in India. If 
 what I have wTitten shall in some little degree 
 even contribute to the advancement of India's 
 evangelization, I shall feel myself amply repaid. 
 
 J. L,. Humphrey. 
 L1TT1.E Fai,i,s, n. y. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTBR PAGE 
 
 I. Introductory, Topography, Scenery, the Way 
 
 People Live, Etc., ii 
 
 II. Appointed a Missionary to India, Voyage and 
 Arrival in Calcutta, and Journey to Naini 
 
 TAL, 22 
 
 III. The Sepoy Mutiny of 1857, the Way It Began, 
 
 and What Led to It, Etc., - - - - 41 
 
 IV. Beginning to Open Our Work in Naini Tal 
 
 and Make Our Plans for Work in the 
 
 Plains, 61 
 
 V. Opening Work in Moradabad and Bareilly, - 80 
 VI. Beginning Preaching in the City of Bareilly, 
 
 AND Baptism of Our First Convert, - 98 
 VII. First Arrivals From Home, and Opening 
 
 Work in Budaon, 117 
 
 VIII. Return to Bareilly and Removal to Shah- 
 
 jehanpore, 141 
 
 IX. Removal to Moradabad AND Furlough Home, - 159 
 
 X. Medical Work, Etc., 175 
 
 XL Our Work in the Mountains, - - - - 189 
 
 XII. Naini Tal, Pithoragarh, and the Tarai, - 205 
 
 XIII. The Hindu People, 223 
 
 5 
 
6 Contents. 
 
 CHAPTER PAGE 
 
 XIV. The Mohammedans of India, - - - 233 
 
 XV. Again Pastor at Naini Tal English Church, - 245 
 
 X\'I. A Call to This Work, 258 
 
 XVII. History and Progress of Missionary Work in 
 India, With Statement of Results, Both 
 OF Our Own Church Work and of the 
 Work as a Whole as Seen by the Last 
 Census in 1901, 268 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 1. View of Naini Tal, Our Oldest Mission Station, Frontispiece 
 
 FACING PAGE 
 
 2. Joel Janvier, a Native Minister Given to Dr. Butler by 
 the Presbyterian Mission in Allahabad, Blind and in 
 
 His Old Age, -31 
 
 3. Memorial Well, Cawnpore, Into Which the Dead and 
 Dying Women and Children Were Cast Who Were 
 Massacred by the Order of Nanni Sahib in the Mutiny 
 
 of 1857, 56 
 
 4. Zhur Ul Haqq, Our First Baptized Convert and First 
 Native Presiding Elder, - - - - - - 112 
 
 5. Sir William Muir and Sir Henry Ramsay - - - 183 
 
 6. Medical Class. About the First Women Educated in 
 Medicine, 187 
 
 7. Isa Das and Family. A Brahmin Baptized in 1870 in 
 Haldwani, 193 
 
 8. English Methodist Episcopal Church, ... - 207 
 
 9. Wellesley Girls' High School, 209 
 
 10. Oak Openings Boys' High School, . . - . 210 
 
 11. A Class of Christian Girls, and Rebecca, Their Teacher, 
 Another Member of the Medical Class, and Who v^^as 
 Miss Dr. Swain's Assistant in the Woman's Hospital 
 
 in Bareilly for Many Years, 232 
 
 12. Bareilly Theological Seminary Faculty, - - - - 281 
 
Twenty-one Years in India. 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 Introductory Chapter. 
 
 India is a very interesting country; but few 
 who have not visited it, or lived in it, can realize 
 how interesting it really is. 
 
 In past ages it has been thought of as a verita- 
 ble El Dorado or a kind of fairy land, possessing 
 fabulous wealth. Solomon's ships visited India, 
 and brought back gold, precious stones, and pea- 
 cocks' feathers. Christopher Columbus aspired to 
 find a Western pasage to India; but instead he 
 discovered this continent, and opened up a new 
 world. He thought it was India, as he called the 
 people he found here Indians. 
 
 The country is about i,8oo miles at its ex- 
 treme points from north to south, and about 1,500 
 miles from east to west, not including Burmah. 
 It contains a superficial area of 1,860,000 square 
 
 II 
 
12 Twknty-one: Years in India. 
 
 miles. In 1901, when the last census was taken, 
 the population was 294,382,676, nearly one-fifth 
 of the population of the entire world. The great 
 mass of the people are very poor. The wage 
 of a common laborer is not more than two dol- 
 lars a month, he finding himself. The popula- 
 tion, under the paternal care of the British Gov- 
 ernment is increasing, and one of the great prob- 
 lems confronting the Government is how to im- 
 prove the condition of the great wage-earning 
 class of the population. 
 
 The Secretary of State for India, Lord 
 George Hamilton, recently said in Parliament, 
 "That so far as eighty-three per cent of the popu- 
 lation was concerned, there was a clear and in- 
 disputable evidence that their condition during 
 the last twenty years had improved." He also 
 stated, "That the Viceroy, Lord Curzon, has re- 
 cently taken the greatest pains to ascertain what 
 the average income per head of the agricultural 
 population now is, contrasted with twenty years 
 ago; and he finds that in 1880 it was rupees 18 
 per head; in 1900, notwithstanding the increase 
 
TwKNTY-ONi: YKARS in InDIA. 1 3 
 
 in the population, it was rupees 20 per head, not 
 a great increase, but still an advance. During 
 that period the income per head of the non-agri- 
 cultural population is estimated to have risen from 
 rupees 27 to rupees 30. The total of land under 
 cultivation in 1880 was 194,000,000 of acres; it 
 is now 217,000,000 of acres. In the yield per 
 acre we see a marked increase; in 1880 the yield 
 of food crops per acre was 730 pounds, in 1900 
 it was 840 pounds." 
 
 Sir William Hunter, in his work "Our Indian 
 Empire," says that not much more than four per 
 cent of the people live in the cities and larger 
 towns, showing that the population of India is 
 largely rural, and as a whole very poor ; but there 
 is actual improvement in their condition, as these 
 figures show. 
 
 The country is crossed from east to west be- 
 tween the twenty-third and twenty-fifth parallels 
 of latitude, by the Vindiya range of mountains, 
 at the base of which flows the Nerbudda River. 
 The country to the north is usually called Hin- 
 dustan, and that to the south is the Deccan. Stan 
 
14 Twenty-one Years in India. 
 
 means place, Hindustan, therefore, means place 
 or country of the Hindus. 
 
 Two great rivers take their rise in the Hima- 
 layan range of mountains, and have much to do 
 in fixing the general outlines and topography of 
 the country to the north, or Hindustan proper. 
 One of these, the Ganges, flows from the moun- 
 tain range on the north to the southeast and 
 empties into the Bay of Bengal; the other, the 
 Indus, flows to the southwest and empties into 
 the Arabian Sea, or Persian Gulf, at Karachee. 
 These magnificent rivers drain and irrigate nearly 
 one-half of the entire country. 
 
 The great Gangetic Plain stretches away from 
 Calcutta to the northwest to Peshawar on the 
 Indus, 1, 800 miles, while the Indus extends away 
 to the southwest to the Arabian Sea. 
 
 These plains are, on an average, three hundred 
 miles in width, and they constitute the garden of 
 India. On the north we have the grand Hima- 
 layan chain of mountains, with the snowy range 
 towering up in the heavens and sparkling in the 
 sunlight with indescribable beauty. In the cold 
 
Twe:nTy-one: Ykars in India. ic, 
 
 J 
 
 season as you journey to the Northwest on the 
 Grand Trunk Road, a metaled road all the way 
 from Calcutta to Peshawur, i,8oo miles, without 
 doubt the finest road in the world, or by railway, 
 this snowy range may be seen for hundreds of 
 miles of the journey. This vast plain continues 
 practically up to the base of the mountains, hav- 
 ing only a slight ascent for a few miles before 
 reaching the mountains proper, and so gradual 
 is the ascent that it is hardly noticeable to the 
 ordinary observer. There is not much hilly or 
 rolling country through which you pass as you 
 approach the range itself. At the foot of the 
 mountains is a strip of country slightly declining 
 towards the plains, called the Bhaber, or waterless 
 forest, as the word means ; that is, water can not 
 be reached by digging wells. The Bhaber is from 
 ten to fifteen miles in width; then we strike the 
 Tarai, where the water is very near the surface, 
 and is covered with tall grass and more or less 
 with forests. 
 
 This section Is very malarious during the 
 rainy season and for some months afterward. 
 
i6 Twenty-one Years in India. 
 
 Many wild animals inhabit this region, such as 
 bears, leopards, tigers, and even wild elephants 
 are found here. The great thoroughfares from 
 the seaports to the northwest, pass through these 
 plains. It may be imagined that they are monoto- 
 nous to the traveler; but such is not the case, 
 however. 
 
 The landscape is usually attractive, and often 
 especially so during the cold season when travel- 
 ers visit India. The palm tree with its feathery 
 top and unique leaves and branches, dots the ex- 
 panse and constantly reminds you that you are in 
 a tropical land — a land strangely unlike your 
 own. The great Gangetic Valley is for the most 
 part highly cultivated and densely populated. 
 
 In Upper India you will see vast fields of 
 wheat, rice, millet, dal, gram, potatoes, sugar- 
 cane, and tobacco, and many other purely Indian 
 cereals. In some parts you find indigo, poppies, 
 and cotton being cultivated to a large extent. Po- 
 tatoes, late years, are being cultivated extensively 
 both in the mountains and plains. At the foot of 
 the mountains, in the locality I have spoken of as 
 
Twenty-one Years in India. 17 
 
 the Bhaber, large fields of mustard may be seen in 
 the proper season, and the air will be scented 
 with the perfume of its bright yellow flowers, lor 
 a long distance. Mustard-seed yields a kind* of 
 oil extensively used and very highly valued by 
 the natives. Wheat is much grown, especially in 
 the Northwest. The landscape is much broken 
 by numerous groves of mango, tamarind, pepul, 
 and orange trees. These groves are usually con- 
 tiguous to the villages and cities, and, being set 
 out with regularity, they add much to the beauty 
 of the country, and serve to break up what would 
 otherwise be very tame and monotonous. 
 
 There are no homes scattered about over the 
 country as with us. The people live in cities or 
 villages. In the villages the houses are squalid 
 and uninviting. The walls are of mud and cov- 
 ered with grass, without windows, or floors, 
 other than the earth itself. There is not much 
 order in the location of houses in a village. A 
 village is simply a collection of miserable mud 
 huts, thrown in about as it happens; the streets 
 have to take their chances, winding about, and 
 2 
 
i8 TwKnTy-one: Years in India. 
 
 finding a passage through if possible. As a rule 
 they are filthy and sadly lacking in all sanitary 
 arrangements. They are likely to abound with 
 ill-kept dogs, goats, cattle, and naked children. 
 You will not often see swine about, as they are 
 only kept by the very lowest class of the people, 
 and not by the Hindus or Mohammedans at all. 
 In the cities the buildings are superior to those 
 in villages. Generally, they are built of brick and 
 covered with tiles or cement. The houses are 
 not arranged at all according to our ideas of con- 
 venience and comfort. The rooms are generally 
 small, low between joints, without windows, ill 
 ventilated, and quite without all furnishings, ex- 
 cept in the case of the very well-to-do. 
 
 A small piece of matting serves in place of a 
 chair and for a bed. They do not have chairs or 
 tables in their houses. They sleep, sit, and take 
 their meals on the floor or ground. 
 
 They have no knives, forks, or spoons; but 
 make their fingers do service in place of these. 
 A house is not to them what it Is to us in our 
 cold climate. The most of the year it is very 
 
Twenty-one Years in India. 19 
 
 warm, and at no time is the cold excessive, and 
 for the largest part of the year it is uniformly 
 pleasant, no storms, night or day, for weeks and 
 months even, so they live much in the open air. 
 They wear light clothing; the poorer people 
 clothe themselves very scantily. 
 
 I have now described Upper India, or Hindu- 
 stan proper. I have mentioned its two great 
 plains, that of the Ganges and Indus. Much of 
 India is a vast plain. We have, in addition to 
 these plains, the great sandy desert on the west, 
 and an elevated tract called Central India. The 
 Deccan, or South India, has a chain of mountains 
 on its northern boundary running nearly parallel 
 with the Vindiya range, to the south of which 
 stretches a table-land of triangular form, termi- 
 nating at Cape Comorin with the Western 
 Ghauts on the opposite coast. Between the 
 Ghauts and the sea lies a narrow belt of land 
 which runs around the whole peninsula. 
 
 The soil is generally productive, only requir- 
 ing water to produce good crops. Indeed every- 
 thing grows with great luxuriance in India when 
 
20 Twenty-one Years in India. 
 
 the rainfall is normal. When the fall is less than 
 normal the price of grain rises in the market, and 
 the people begin to feel the pressure of want. If 
 the rainfall is materially lessened, and this con- 
 tinues for two or three seasons in succession, it 
 produces famine with all its attendant horrors. 
 
 From time immemorial the country has been 
 subject to these calamities. To obviate them, or 
 to lessen their influence, an extensive system of 
 irrigation has been carried out by the Govern- 
 ment, at an immense outlay, and by this means 
 a considerable part of the country is protected 
 from this calamity. In 1900 there were 180,- 
 150,454 acres of land cultivated; 31,544,000 were 
 rendered safe from drought by irrigation. We 
 now have over 27,000 miles of railway spread 
 over the country. These, too, are a great protec- 
 tion from the evils of famine, as by means of 
 them the surplus production of one part of the 
 country can be rapidly removed to another part 
 in a time of emergency. 
 
 There is a large amount of wheat grown in 
 some parts of the country ; about thirteen bushels 
 
TwEnTy-one Years in India. 21 
 
 to the acre would be regarded a fair yield. The 
 exports of India in 1900 were 77,950,000 pounds 
 sterling, $399,750,000. Imports were 61,113,000 
 sterling, or $355,565,000. The Government of 
 India is a very paternal government, and in every 
 way in its power seeks to improve the condition 
 of the people. 
 
 There are three seasons in India, the hot and 
 rainy season, which begins about the middle of 
 June and continues until the middle or end of 
 September. Then begins the cold season, which 
 up country is almost uniformly pleasant and de- 
 lightful. The hot season begins in March or 
 early in April and continues until the rains set in, 
 in June or July. It is extremely hot during this 
 season. The heat is somewhat modified by the 
 rainfall, but the humidity of the atmosphere 
 makes the heat even more trying to many, than 
 the hot season proper. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 Appointed a Missionary to India, Voyage, and 
 Arrival in Calcutta. 
 
 In 1854, Dr. Durbin, Secretary of our Mis- 
 sionary Society, published a call for two young 
 men to go out to India. It was felt that the time 
 had arrived when w^e as a Church should enter 
 upon this work in that country. It was then 
 thought that they would be desired to go out the 
 following year. I had been deeply interested in 
 this subject, for some time felt that God had 
 called me to this work. After much deliberation 
 I responded to this call and signified my willing- 
 ness to go if needed. I heard nothing from this 
 until September, 1856, when Bishop Simpson 
 notified me that I was accepted for India, and 
 would be expected to sail in May or June fol- 
 lowing. I was stationed at Malone, in Northern 
 New York, at the time, and this arrangement 
 would enable me to finish out my year before 
 
 22 
 
TwENTY-ONK Years in India. 23 
 
 leaving. A few months before the Rev. WilHam 
 Butler, of the New England Conference, had been 
 appointed superintendent, and had gone out by 
 the way of England to visit friends, and to con- 
 sult with missionary secretaries and friends there 
 as to the portion of India it would be best for 
 us to occupy. He arrived in Calcutta about the 
 time I received my appointment, and after most 
 careful consideration and consultation with mis- 
 sionary friends and secretaries, he resolved to lo- 
 cate in Bareilly, the capital of the Province of 
 Rohilcund, in the Northwest. It was in his plan 
 to occupy Oudh, to the east of Rohilcund, and 
 probably would have settled in Lucknow, the cap- 
 ital of Oudh, if he could have procured a resi- 
 dence there; but failing in this he located in 
 Bareilly in January, 1857. Rev. Ralph Pierce, of 
 Moira, N. Y., had received his appointment to 
 India some months before I received mine. His 
 wife was an adopted daughter of Dr. and Mrs, 
 J. T. Peck, afterward Bishop Peck. I left Ma- 
 lone on the 24th day of May, and after a few 
 days in New York, we all, accompanied by Dr. 
 
24 Twenty-one Years in India. 
 
 and Mrs. Peck, Dr. Durbin, and Rev. D. Terry, 
 went to Boston, where farewell services were 
 held on Sunday. On that very day the mutiny 
 occurred in Bareilly. On Monday we sailed, our 
 party consisting of Mr. and Mrs. Pierce and their 
 little babe; Mrs. Owens, wife of Dr. Owens, of 
 the Presbyterian Mission of Allahabad; Mrs. 
 Humphrey, and myself. Our voyage, though 
 long and tedious, was on the whole a pleasant 
 one, and we improved our time in the study of 
 the language, and, with Mrs. Owen to direct us, 
 we succeeded in laying a good foundation, which 
 was a very great help to us after our arrival in 
 Calcutta. We learned the alphabet, read and 
 translated several of the first chapters of Mat- 
 thew's Gospel. A very pleasant incident occurred 
 when we were about twenty degrees south of the 
 Equator. We sighted a ship from Liverpool, 
 bound to Australia ; the day was fine, and the sea 
 fairly smooth, and we came near enough to com- 
 municate by signals. The captain of the English 
 ship invited our captain to take his passengers and 
 come on board their ship and dine with them. 
 
Twenty-one: Years in India. 25 
 
 Upon our concurrence, he accepted the invitation, 
 and we had a most enjoyable time. They had a 
 large number of passengers, and it did not take 
 us long to become acquainted. We learned that 
 they were from Liverpool, and left about the same 
 time we left Boston, so we did not have much 
 news to communicate to them, nor they much to 
 give us; but we had many things to talk about, 
 so the two hours we passed on board their ship 
 flew by very quickly, and the memory of them re- 
 mained with us for many a day. Some of the 
 passengers we met that day on the Southern 
 Cross, the name of their ship, wrote to us in 
 India, and for some years we maintained a very 
 pleasant correspondence. Our course lay about 
 four hundred miles south of the Cape of Good 
 Hope, and, it being winter on that side of the 
 Equator, it was very rough and cold. Westerly 
 winds prevailed in that latitude at that season of 
 the year, and we were rapidly swept eastward on 
 our course until we sighted the little island of 
 St. Paul's, which was our signal to turn to the 
 north up towards the Bay of Bengal. 
 
26 Twenty-one Years in India. 
 
 On the i/th of September we sighted the 
 hghtship, as we supposed, near the mouth of the 
 Hooghly River, where we expected to get a pilot 
 to take us up the river a Httle more than a hun- 
 dred miles to Calcutta. We arrived in the night 
 and cast anchor to wait for the morning. We 
 could not get our pilot until morning, this we 
 knew. Then we learned that bad news awaited 
 us, but we could not find out what it was. We 
 also found that we had gone to the wrong light- 
 ship. The one we wished to get was about forty 
 miles away. It took us nearly all the next day 
 to find out this much, and as the hours passed by 
 we found that our anchor did not hold the ship, 
 and we were surely drifting on to the sand-banks, 
 and that we were already in a very dangerous 
 proximity to them. We knew that many ships 
 have been wrecked in this locality by being driven 
 on the banks by the force of the current, and 
 then capsizing. At one time it seemed that surely 
 this would be our fate, but in the last moment, 
 as it seemed to us, a breeze sprang up that filled 
 our sails and took us out of our perilous position. 
 
Twenty-one Years in India. 27 
 
 In a few hours we were at the proper place, and 
 we again cast anchor and waited for the morn- 
 ing. With the dawn a pilot came aboard to take 
 us up to Calcutta. The first thing he said, as he 
 stepped onto our deck, was, "Well, I suppose you 
 have heard the news?" "How should you sup- 
 pose so ?" our captain replied ; "we have not seen 
 a ship for more than two months." The pilot 
 replied, "The country is in a turmoil, lots of mas- 
 sacres, everybody killed up country ; but here are 
 the papers that will tell you all about it." With 
 what eagerness we seized those papers! From 
 them we learned of the mutiny in Bareilly, and 
 that Mr. Butler had probably escaped to Naini 
 Tal, a hill sanitarium in the mountains, about 
 seventy miles to the north of Bareilly. 
 
 Mrs. Owen read of the outbreak in Allahabad, 
 and of the destruction of the Mission premises, 
 including her own home, but she could get no in- 
 formation in regard to her husband. Her state 
 of mind can be imagined. Our progress up the 
 river was slow, as our captain determined not to 
 pay the price demanded for a steam tug to take us 
 
28 Twenty-one Years in India. 
 
 up, but to depend upon the wind and tide when 
 they were favorable, anchoring when they were 
 adverse. On the evening of the 21st of Septem- 
 ber we cast anchor off Garden Reach, just oppo- 
 site the ex-king of Oudh's palace, about four 
 miles below our proper moorings off the Strand 
 at Calcutta. Here we had our first experience of 
 the India climate, and of Calcutta mosquitos. 
 It was intensely hot, and the mosquitoes, like 
 the sepoys, thirsted for blood. It was a dreadful 
 night, but, as all such nights do, it ended at last. 
 We had letters of introduction to Messrs. Stewart 
 & Young, merchants from Glasgow, who had 
 shown Mr. Butler much kindness, and with whom 
 he was in communication as far as was possible 
 in those days. In course of the day they came 
 on board and took us to their home for dinner, 
 and then to a home they had secured and fur- 
 nished for us. They knew it would be some 
 months before we could proceed up country, and 
 it was out of the question to find a boarding- 
 house for us, so they rented a comfortable house 
 and furnished it with necessary furniture, and 
 
TwKnty-one: Years in India. 29 
 
 put one of their own tried and trusted servants 
 in charge of it. In the evening they joined us in 
 our home at tea. Their kindness to us during 
 our stay in Calcutta, and for years afterward, 
 we can never forget. They were noble men, and 
 very dear friends as long as they lived, but they 
 have both been dead for many years. 
 
 Our detention in Calcutta was a trial to us, 
 but we could only make the best of it and wait 
 patiently for the Lord to show us our way. It 
 was a time of great excitement in Calcutta when 
 we landed. A plot had just been discovered to 
 murder all the foreign residents. A native prince 
 then visiting Calcutta, had arranged to give a 
 great entertainment in Botanical Gardens, which 
 are about four miles on the opposite side of the 
 river, but a heavy rain came on and prevented 
 the people from going. Before the day ended it 
 was learned that the sepoys had arranged to take 
 advantage of the absence of the officers and resi- 
 dents, and mutiny and seize the fort and the mint, 
 but the rain broke up all their plans. The native 
 regiments implicated were immediately disarmed. 
 
30 TwKNTY-ONE Years in India. 
 
 They were only permitted to carry their ramrods 
 after that day. The king of Oudh had a few days 
 before been locked up in the fort for fear of a 
 movement among the natives for his restoration. 
 There were many bad elements at work, and no 
 one knew what might happen any hour. 
 
 We received much attention and kindness 
 from missionaries and Christian friends. Mr. 
 Butler had created a very favorable impression in 
 Calcutta, and much interest was manifested in 
 our proposed mission, and we were told that our 
 progress would be watched with interest, and 
 that it was hoped that the remarkable progress 
 of our Church in the United States might even 
 be surpassed in India. We were informed that 
 great things w^ere expected of our Church in In- 
 dia. We immediately began the study of the lan- 
 guage under a competent native teacher, and 
 made as good use of our opportunities as we 
 could to become acquainted with mission work 
 as it was being conducted in Calcutta at that 
 time. It was a time of anxiety; indeed, it was 
 about the darkest period of the mutiny when we 
 
JOEL JANVIER, BLIND AND AGED. 
 (Native Minister, from the Presbyterian Mission in AUahabau 
 
Twe:nty-one Years in India. 31 
 
 arrived. The first English soldiers landed about 
 the same time we did ; those who had been inter- 
 cepted by Lord Canning at the Cape of Good 
 Hope, who were on their way to China, just at 
 that time; but things had begun to brighten a 
 little. Already an avenging army was on the way 
 to the Northwest, and arrangements were rapidly 
 being made for another to follow, and the cheer- 
 ing news had just arrived that Delhi had fallen, 
 and all were hoping that the worst was past, and 
 so it proved. At the suggestion of our friend, 
 Mr. Owen, we engaged Caleb, a young man of 
 their Mission in Allahabad, as our teacher, whom 
 we found well qualified for the position. He was 
 a native Christian, and a special friend of Joel, 
 who had been given to Mr. Butler as his assist- 
 ant, by our Presbyterian brethren in Allahabad. 
 Joel was with Mr. Butler in Bareilly, and was 
 there when the mutiny broke out on the 31st of 
 May, 1857. He escaped by climbing a tree near 
 by, when the sepoys came and burned Mr. But- 
 ler's house, and Maria was killed by them. It 
 can well be imagined that we were interested in 
 
32 Twenty-one Years in India. 
 
 every thing pertaining to Joel, and it was very 
 pleasing to us to have Caleb, his friend, for our 
 teacher. Under his instruction we made rapid 
 progress, greatly to our advantage when, a few 
 months later, we came to make the journey up 
 country. The acquisition of the language is of 
 the greatest importance to a missionary, and he 
 can never do it so well as when he first arrives 
 in the country. If he puts it off, instead of grow- 
 ing less formidable it will become more so, and 
 the probabilities are that he will never master it. 
 I have often been asked if it is a difficult lan- 
 guage to learn. I should say, not especially so; 
 but it has some peculiarities that are only mas- 
 tered by long study and practice. But most suc- 
 ceed, at least fairly well, who are determined to 
 do it. We found that our detention in Calcutta 
 need by no means be lost time ; it gave us the op- 
 portunity to become somewhat acquainted with 
 the situation, greatly to our advantage in after 
 years. We knew very little of India when we 
 landed in Calcutta, and we devoted our best ef- 
 forts to acquiring a knowledge of the people, the 
 
Twenty-one Years in India. 33 
 
 country, and the work we were entering upon. 
 How strange everything seemed when we first 
 landed ! The people seemed especially so ; some 
 were dressed, but more were only very slightly 
 so, to say the least. Strange sights were on every 
 hand, and a jargon of sounds fell upon our ears. 
 It seemed a new world to us, so very unlike any- 
 thing we had ever seen before or imagined. Cal- 
 cutta at that time presented strange contrasts of 
 wealth and poverty, refinement and ignorance, of 
 grandeur and squalor. These contrasts are still 
 seen there, as they are in all large cities, especially 
 in the East. It is, however, much improved from 
 what it was at that time. It is now a fine city; 
 it has many splendid public buildings and pala- 
 tial private residences. The scene that presents 
 itself on the Strand of an evening is one of great 
 magnificence. On one side are the ships of all 
 nations at anchor; on the other, the Maidan, or 
 parade ground, with a line of fine business and 
 private residences in the background, and the city 
 lying farther back. Such a display of fine equi- 
 pages as may be seen passing up and down at 
 3 
 
34 Twenty-one Years in India. 
 
 about sundown,, or a little after, can hardly be 
 seen anywhere in the world. The turnouts of 
 \\ealthy natives, and the native princes with their 
 high-bred Arab horses and livery-men in most 
 gorgeous colors, present a most brilliant and 
 showy scene indeed. 
 
 We derived great pleasure and profit from 
 our intercourse with missionaries of different 
 Churches. Among them I may mention such men 
 as Dr. Duff, Mr. Lacroix, and Mullins, of the 
 London Missionary Society, and many others. 
 We visited the schools and colleges being con- 
 ducted by missionaries in Calcutta, and also vis- 
 ited Christian villages and out-stations in the 
 country round about; learned many things as to 
 methods of mission work, that served us well in 
 following years. We also took some lessons in 
 street preaching at this time. The missionaries 
 were somewhat divided on the subject. Dr. Duff 
 was a strenuous advocate of education as a 
 means of evangelization; but from the first it 
 seemed clear to me that both were to be utilized 
 to the fullest extent. And this was the view 
 adopted by our Mission from the first. So far as 
 
TwKNTY-ONE Years in India. 35 
 
 I know, we have never had the shghtest discus- 
 sion as to preference of one of these over the 
 other. We beHeve in both with all our hearts. I 
 think at the present day nearly all missionaries 
 do the same. 
 
 The Calcutta Missionary Conference was a 
 great power in those days. This body did much 
 in helping to shape the action of Government on 
 many important subjects affecting the interest of 
 the people. Lord Canning was governor-general, 
 and was much criticised for lack of spirit in deal- 
 ing with the situation in the early part of the out- 
 break. But general opinion has much changed in 
 regard to his administration, which is now con- 
 sidered to have been judicious and dignified on 
 the whole. 
 
 I shall never forget some of the addresses I 
 heard Dr. Duff deliver in those days, especially 
 one in the Free Church of Scotland, on the mu- 
 tiny. I think it was the most eloquent address I 
 have ever heard. I have never heard anything, 
 from even Bishop Simpson in his best days, equal- 
 ing it. 
 
36 Twenty-one Years in India. 
 
 Early in February we began to consider the 
 feasibility of undertaking the journey to Naini 
 Tal. We were very anxious to make it before 
 the extreme hot weather should set in, and Mr. 
 Butler was very anxious to have us do so, that 
 we together might lay our plans for opening our 
 work in the plains. We soon had a communica- 
 tion from him proposing to meet us in Agra. It 
 was thought that we might venture to undertake 
 the journey with a fair degree of safety. But all 
 means of travel wxre monopolized by the Gov- 
 ernment, it being a time of war; but we finally 
 succeeded in arranging for coolies to propel us, 
 we furnishing our own carriages. 
 
 Accordingly, on the 24th day of February, 
 1858, we started for Raneegunge, the terminus of 
 the railway, 112 miles from Calcutta. Here we 
 found our carriages, and began our long journey 
 to the northwest. We journeyed day and night 
 with changes of coolies every ten miles. There 
 is this to be said, the road was splendid. There 
 is no better road in the world than the Grand 
 Trunk road, stretching away from Calcutta to 
 
Twenty-one Years in India. 37 
 
 Peshawur, the magnificent distance of 1,800 
 miles. 
 
 We were nearly a fortnight in reaching Alla- 
 habad, a distance of 500 miles, and which may 
 now be made easily, and with comfort in twenty 
 hours. Here we were obliged to interrupt our 
 journey, as a gentleman had given me the use 
 of a carriage to this place for the sake of getting 
 it up country, and he was to furnish me a horse 
 dak from there on to i\gra. So we were sepa- 
 rated from our party here. The others went on, 
 hoping to get coolies as they had so far on their 
 journey; but they failed in their expectation. 
 They succeeded, however, in pressing the horses 
 into their service belonging to the Dak Company, 
 that they found along the road every five miles, 
 and so succeeded in reaching Agra safely. 
 
 We followed in two or three days, and reached 
 Agra safely, where, to our great delight, we met 
 Mr. Butler. While we remained in Agra we put 
 up in a room in the Jawab, one of the buildings 
 of the Taj-Mahal. I will not attempt a descrip- 
 tion of this wonderful building, it has been so 
 
38 Twenty-one Years in India. 
 
 often described by others. I will only say it 
 was built by the Mogul Emperor Shah Jehan as 
 a mausoleum for his favorite wife, Mumtaz Ma- 
 hal. It is one of the most beautiful structures in 
 tlie world. It is a poem in marble. Twenty thou- 
 sand workmen were seventeen years in construct- 
 ing it, and the edifices connected with it, at a 
 cost of about nine million dollars. Much of the 
 labor was forced, the workmen receiving only a 
 scant allowance of rice for their daily consump- 
 tion. 
 
 From here we went to Meerut and spent a 
 few days in rest, and then started out to make the 
 journey by way of Landour and the mountains 
 to Naini Tal, which would take about twenty- 
 two days. If we could have gone by the direct 
 route we could have made the journey in two or 
 three days; but the country was in the hands of 
 the mutineers, and we could not tell when it 
 would be opened and practicable to go by it; so 
 we determined to take the long route by the moun- 
 tains. It was, in many respects, a very wearisome 
 journey; though on the whole we enjoyed it. The 
 
Twenty-one Years in India. 39 
 
 climate was delightful, and the scenery in many 
 places grand. Our party consisted of Mr. and 
 Mrs. Butler and their little Julia, ]\Ir. and Mrs. 
 Pierce and their little Marilla, who had made the 
 voyage with us from x\merica; and Mrs. Hum- 
 phrey and myself, with Joel and Samuel and Bella. 
 Our party, all told, consisted of nearly seventy- 
 five people, so we made quite an imposing array. 
 Our last day's journey was very long and 
 fatiguing. We started as usual very early in the 
 morning, and it was near midnight when, after a 
 long climb up the mountain side that shuts in 
 Naini Tal on the west and north, we emerged 
 from the shadows and came into the moonlight at 
 the pass, and we looked down the mountain into 
 the valley below and caught our first glimpse of 
 the beautiful "Little Lake," as Naini Tal means. 
 How beautiful it was, shimmering in the moon- 
 light ! I can hardly imagine heaven to be more 
 beautiful to a weary traveler from earth than 
 that lake and valley were to us, so 'weary, that 
 night. Mr. Parsons met us and welcomed us 
 to our home. We were escorted to a lovely little 
 
40 Twenty-one; Y^ars in India. 
 
 cottage. A fire was burning on the hearth, the 
 table was spread, and we were told this was to 
 be our home. We said, surely this is heaven ! 
 
 Our long journey of almost two months was 
 ended ; we could now rest without fear of falling 
 into the hands of bloodthirsty enemies. How 
 much we had to thank our Heavenly Father for 
 that night! This was to be one of our mission 
 stations ; so it was home for a time, and we could 
 rest in peace and safety. Later it was my 
 home for about fourteen years. I shall have 
 more to say in regard to our work in this lovely 
 place farther on. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 The Sepoy Mutiny of 1857. 
 
 It may not be inappropriate now briefly to 
 consider some of the causes which led to the 
 mutiny of 1857. The year opened as others, with 
 nothing to indicate that anything unusual was 
 about to take place; but soon unpleasant rumors 
 began to be heard of dissatisfaction and uneasi- 
 ness in the native army. There was, however, 
 nothing in this particularly alarming, as such 
 demonstrations were not uncommon. It is a re- 
 markable fact that British power in India had 
 been established by a native army, officered by 
 Englishmen. The native soldiers are calls Sepoys, 
 which means soldiers. From the time of Clive, 
 they have always had a few British soldiers in 
 their army in India ; but the chief dependence has 
 been upon the native force. The natives were 
 brave, and when trained and armed, after the 
 
 41 
 
42 Twe:nty-one Years in India. 
 
 English system, and led by English officers, made 
 excellent soldiers. They were much superior to 
 the native armies of the country. This was, no 
 doubt, due to the influence of their officers upon 
 them, to their training, and superior weapons. 
 Their failure to overthrow the English was prob- 
 ably owing to the fact that they were not accus- 
 tomed to independent action. They depended 
 upon their officers, and without them they were 
 unable to face the enemy. Their courage and 
 skill seemed to forsake them when left to their 
 own resources. When the mutiny broke out there 
 were but comparatively few European soldiers in 
 the countr}^ There were not more than four or 
 five thousand in all of the Northwest, over against 
 a native army of fifty or sixty thousand. 
 
 The native army v/as a great power for good 
 in the hands of the English, but in the hands of 
 designing and mischievous men it might become a 
 menace to the power that created it. In the early 
 months of that year, there was in the minds of 
 many a feeling of suspense: there seemed to be 
 something in the air indicating a gathering storm. 
 
Twe:nTy-one Yi:ars in India. 43 
 
 It was reported that Chapatties (a kind of native 
 bread) were being mysteriously circulated over 
 the country from place to place. No one knew the 
 meaning of it, but all felt it boded no good, but 
 rather evil in some form. The old musket about 
 this time was superseded by the modern rifle, and 
 trouble arose about the cartridges used with the 
 new weapon. It was reported that they were 
 lubricated with cow's fat and lard. The Hindus 
 worship the cow, and to bite the cartridge thus 
 prepared, they said, would break their caste. 
 Everything pertaining to swine is an abomina- 
 tion to a Moslem, so both classes of sepoys had a 
 grievance, and were up in arms about the new 
 cartridge. The Nineteenth Native Infantry, sta- 
 tioned at Berhampore, about a hundred miles 
 north of Calcutta, had forcibly opened the Bells 
 (small structures where their arms were stored 
 when not in use) and seized their guns and am- 
 munition, and refused to use the new cartridge. 
 Their conduct was so insubordinate and mutinous 
 that it could not be overlooked; accordingly, on 
 the 30th of March they were disarmed and dis- 
 
44 TwENTY-ON^ Years in India. 
 
 missed from the service. On the 6th of Febru- 
 ary an officer of the Thirty-fourth Native Infan- 
 try, stationed at Barackpore, just a few miles to 
 the north of Calcutta, was informed by a sepoy of 
 his company, that the four regiments stationed at 
 that place had determined to mutiny and murder 
 their officers, burn their residences, plunder their 
 property, and proceed to Fort William and seize 
 it. Though the order of drill had been changed 
 so that they might not be required to bite the cart- 
 ridge, they were also assured that the cartridges 
 were not different from those they had been ac- 
 customed to use with their former weapons; but 
 they were still dissatisfied and positively refused 
 to use them. A sepoy of this regiment shot one 
 of the officers, severely wounding him. This 
 sepoy was hanged and the regiment was disarmed 
 and disbanded. The Government now became 
 alive to the danger that menaced it. A general 
 feeling of alarm prevailed among Europeans ; all 
 felt that they were standing on a mine that might 
 at any moment explode and involve them in a 
 common ruin. It is now known that it was 
 
Twenty-one Years in India. 45 
 
 planned, that on a certain day — the 31st of May 
 — all over the country the sepoys should rise, mas- 
 sacre all Europeans, burn and plunder their 
 dwellings and property, and so sweep from the 
 land everything Christian. Providentially the 
 movement was precipitated by the native troops 
 in Meerut, a large military station in the north- 
 west. There was a regiment of European sol- 
 diers here at the time, with a large force of na- 
 tive soldiers, both cavalry and infantry. It seems 
 that a considerable number of men of one of the 
 cavalry regiments refused to use the new cart- 
 ridge, and were put under arrest, and were tried 
 by court-martial, and were sentenced to prison for 
 ten years at hard labor. They were stripped of 
 their uniforms, and irons were riveted upon their 
 ankles on the parade ground. As they were be- 
 ing marched to the place of confinement, they 
 called upon their comrades to rise and deliver 
 them. The next day the native regiments muti- 
 nied, burned their barracks, murdered as many of 
 their officers and Europeans as they could, opened 
 the prison, liberating the prisoners, burned the 
 
46 Twenty-one Years in India. 
 
 residences of Europeans, and destroying all the 
 public property possible, then marched off to 
 Delhi, forty miles distant. Delhi is a historic 
 city in India; it has been the famous capital of 
 many dynasties which have ruled the country, and 
 it has been rendered especially celebrated by the 
 reigns of the Mogul kings. Though the country 
 was ruled by the English, a remnant of this power 
 still existed in form. Bhadur-Shah, the last of 
 the Mogul kings, had been permitted to keep up 
 the semblance of royalty in the fort at Delhi. He 
 had greater influence with all classes and creeds 
 than any other, and it was natural that the dis- 
 affected and insubordinate should gather about 
 him. He was disaffected towards the British 
 Government, as it had decided that the title to 
 royalty should cease with him. The royal family 
 had been informed of this decision, and although 
 they seemed to acquiesce, they were smarting un- 
 der what they felt to be a great injustice and in- 
 dignity, and were only biding their time when 
 they might retaliate. The mutiny of the native 
 army seemed to afford the opportunity desired. 
 
TwKNTY-ONE Yi:arS in InDIA. 47 
 
 The troops that had risen against the En^- 
 Hsh in Meerut, upon arri^^ing in Delhi, were 
 joined by those stationed at that place, and they 
 at once broke out into open rebellion and pro- 
 ceeded to murder all Christians they could find, 
 and plunder their property, and then proclaimed 
 Bhadur-Shah king. The sepoys everywhere fol- 
 lowed the example thus set them by the sepoys 
 of Meerut, and at once rose in open mutiny, mur- 
 dering and plundering all Christians, and marched 
 off to Delhi and joined the standard of Bhadur- 
 Shah. So this became the great center of the 
 mutiny in upper India. They made this their 
 stronghold, and here laid out their full strength. 
 
 To the north lay the Panjab, the land of five 
 rivers, as the word indicates. The word is de- 
 rived from two words, panch, five, and ab, water, 
 literally five waters, which is contracted into Pan- 
 jab. This was the home of the vSikhs, a brave and 
 warlike nation, which had only a short time be- 
 fore been conquered by the British, and their 
 country annexed to the British possessions. The 
 danger was that they might join with the Hin- 
 
48 Twenty-one: Years in India. 
 
 dustanees against their conquerors. Had they done 
 so it would seem that nothing could have saved 
 the British power from overthrow. It seems re- 
 markable that they did not. Sir John Lawrence 
 was commissioner of the Panjab at that time. 
 Through his influence, under God, with the grand 
 men associated with him — such as Edwards, Nich- 
 olson, Montgomery, and many others, thoroughly 
 versed in controlling and governing the rough 
 and wild people of the northern frontier — the 
 Sikhs and many other tribes always ready to join 
 in an affray when opportunity offers, were not 
 only kept loyal, but turned to good account in 
 helping to put down the mutiny and recover 
 Delhi. Sir John Lav/rence saw at once the su- 
 preme necessity of recovering Delhi with as 
 little delay as possible. He almost denuded 
 the Panjab of British soldiers and hastened 
 them off to Delhi. Early in June a force of 
 three or four thousand men occupied the ridge 
 on the western side of Delhi, and commenced a 
 siege that lasted all through the intense heat of 
 an Indian hot and rainy season, until the middle 
 
Twe:nty-one; Ye:ars in India. 49 
 
 of September, when the city was taken. The 
 suffering endured through all this period by the 
 army can not be described. The force at no time 
 consisted of more than 6,000 men, and the number 
 was constantly lessened by casualties in battle, 
 and by sickness from the dreadful exposure. In 
 the fall of Delhi the backbone of the mutiny was 
 broken; but much hard fighting remained to be 
 done, especially at Lucknow. The royal family 
 was broken up, the princes were slain, the old 
 king, Bhadur-Shah, was banished to Burmah, 
 where he died soon after. 
 
 A short time before the mutiny broke out, the 
 king of Oudh had been deposed and his country 
 annexed to the British possessions. His Govern- 
 ment was so corrupt and oppressive that it could 
 be endured no longer. He had been warned re- 
 peatedly by different governor-generals that he 
 must reform his court and administration; but 
 these warnings were unheeded, and affairs con- 
 tinued to go from bad to worse. The time came, 
 at length, when this could not be suffered longer, 
 and the king was removed and the country taken 
 4 
 
50 Twenty-one Years in India. 
 
 over by the British in the interest of humanity, 
 and who proceeded to revise the land tenure, so 
 as to protect the cultivators against the rapacity 
 of the Zemindars, or land-owners. The people 
 however, gave the English no credit, but looked 
 upon it as usurpation and unjust. The landed 
 proprietors complained of oppression, because 
 they were not permitted to oppress their tenants 
 as they had before done, and the tenants them- 
 selves distrusted the motives of the Government, 
 so Oudh became a hot-bed of discontent and 
 mutiny. Many of the sepoys in the army were 
 from Oudh, and they all shared in this dissatis- 
 faction. In this way they were prepared to make 
 the most of any incident that turned up and that 
 afforded an opportunity to show their ill-will 
 toward the English. 
 
 It now seems strange that so many could be- 
 lieve as they did that the purpose to rise and throw 
 off allegiance to the British was not at this time 
 almost universal in the sepoy army. After half 
 the army had mutinied, many English officers 
 said their own regiments would not mutiny, and 
 
TwKNTY-ONK Ye:arS in InDIA. 5 1 
 
 persisted in trusting in their men. Many more 
 might have escaped, but for this bUnd confidence 
 in the loyalty of the sepoys. Sir Henry Law- 
 rence was commissioner of Oudh at the time 
 the mutiny broke out in Lucknow. He seemed 
 to have taken in the situation from the first, and 
 formed an accurate conception of the extent of 
 the danger threatened. Years before he had pre- 
 dicted that some day the native army would 
 mutiny and attempt the overthrow of the Gov- 
 ernment. He now believed that what he foresaw 
 was about to occur, and he set about preparing 
 the residency so that all Europeans might seek 
 shelter there when the storm should burst upon 
 them. He laid in supplies sufficient for a siege 
 of long duration. So when the exigency arose 
 they were ready. The wisdom of all this was 
 seen later. They had food, water, and fuel sufifi- 
 cient to meet the wants of all confined there for 
 more than five months. They had an abundant 
 supply of ammunition also; had either food or 
 ammunition failed they must have perished. The 
 preservation of all that company of people was 
 
52 Twe:nTy-one: Ymrs in India. 
 
 therefore due to the wise foresight of that great 
 and good man, who was killed early in the siege 
 by a cannon-ball which entered his room. For 
 more than five months they defended themselves 
 in their frail defenses against vast hordes of the 
 enemy that surrounded them in the city, subject 
 to every disadvantage and constant peril by night 
 and day. Havelock and Outram fought their 
 way into the residency, but the enemy closed the 
 way behind them so that they could not get out 
 after they had forced their way in. They re- 
 mained shut up with the others until finally re- 
 lieved in November by Sir Colin Campbell. Luck- 
 now was not taken until March following, 1858. 
 The story of the siege of the residency in 
 Lucknow is a thrilling one. It is hard to imag- 
 ine the suffering endured during those months 
 of that dreadful hot season. Under the most 
 favorable circumstances the intense heat is al- 
 most unendurable to foreigners; it is a wonder 
 how any lived through it, shut up in small or 
 overcrowded quarters, with little chance for ven- 
 tilation, and with their necessarily coarse fare 
 
Twe:nty-one Ye;ars in India. 53 
 
 and lack of all comforts of life, to which they had 
 been accustomed ; as it was, many succumbed. The 
 residency is now in ruins, but it is carefully pre- 
 served in its present form as a memorial of those 
 dreadful days. No stranger would come to India 
 without visiting the residency. It is indeed his- 
 toric ground. Lucknow is a large city with many 
 objects of interest and worthy of the attention of 
 the stranger. It is vastly different from what it 
 was before the mutiny. The people of Oudh are 
 now prosperous and happy under British rule. It 
 is a noble field for missionary work, and much is 
 being done to improve and elevate the people. 
 It is the very garden of India, its people are nat- 
 urally a noble race, all they lack is Christianity; 
 this many are now receiving, and the prospect is 
 that in the near future great numbers will do 
 the same. 
 
 Another of the leading spirits, in events lead- 
 ing to the mutiny, was Dhondo-Pant, or Nana- 
 Sahib, as he is more commonly known. He was 
 the adopted son and heir of the last of the Mah- 
 ratta chiefs. A pension had been given to the 
 
54 Twenty-one: Ykars in India. 
 
 Peshwa, with the distinct understanding that it 
 should cease at his death, which occurred in 185 1. 
 Nana-Sahib, though left a large fortune, was not 
 satisfied. The lapse of the pension was a sore 
 grievance to him, and what he regarded as a gross 
 wrong rankled in his breast^ and when all efforts 
 to get it renewed failed, his rage and hate of the 
 British became most intense. He lived at Bithur 
 on the Ganges, a few miles to the west of Cawn- 
 pore. He was apparently very friendly with the 
 English residents of the station, and often got up 
 lavish entertainments for them at his palace. All 
 the while he was plotting their destruction. That 
 he had been plotting with the king of Delhi and 
 the Nawab of Lucknow, or of Oudh, is now well 
 known. He did his utmost to promote discon- 
 tent in the native army. He directed the sepoys 
 in their movements when they mutinied, and 
 openly assumed command of the rebel forces. 
 There was a part of a European regiment at 
 Cawnpore at the time, and a large number of 
 European and Christian families. The place se- 
 lected where they were to congregate in case of 
 
TwKnty-one Years in India. 55 
 
 disturbance, and make their defense, was not 
 well chosen. It was for the most part open 
 ground, with no natural defenses of any account. 
 There were some barracks, but they were but 
 poorly adapted either for shelter or defense, but 
 they did the best they could to protect themselves. 
 For three weeks in the terrible heat of June, they 
 kept at bay all the forces of Nana-Sahib. Dur- 
 ing this time, however, many were killed, and 
 many died of exposure. If they could hold out a 
 few days more relief would come to them. Have- 
 lock, with an avenging army, was on the way to 
 their relief, his guns might almost have been 
 heard at the time, but this was unknown to them, 
 though well known to their enemies. The Nana 
 now sought to accomplish by craft what he was 
 too cowardly to do by force. He sent in a flag 
 of truce, proposing to supply them with boats and 
 all needed supplies to take them to Allahabad, if 
 they would surrender their arms and march out 
 of their defenses. In an evil hour General 
 Wheeler, their commanding officer, listened to his 
 proposal, and trusting his integrity and sincerity, 
 
56 Twe:nty-one Years in India. 
 
 accepted his terms, and marched out and took the 
 road to the river a mile away. As they entered 
 the boats and were pushed out into the stream, a 
 masked battery opened upon them, and only four 
 men escaped. The women and children who were 
 not killed were marched back to the station and 
 a little later were all huddled together in a small 
 bungalow and were butchered in cold blood, and 
 their bodies, the dead and dying together, were 
 thrown into a well near by. A more cruel and 
 diabolical deed has never been perpetrated, cer- 
 tainly not in modern times. No name is so cov- 
 ered with obloquy as that of this wretched man 
 Nana-Sahib. He fled ultimately to Nepal, where 
 in some lonely spot in the mountains, it is sup- 
 posed, he ended his wretched life. Over the well 
 is now a beautiful monument, and surrounding 
 it is a beautiful and well-kept garden of several 
 acres, called the "Memorial Garden." No one 
 drives through it faster than a walk ; natives are 
 not permitted to enter it. It is one of the great 
 sights of India, not surpassed in interest by any 
 other. No traveler would think of passing it by. 
 
MEMORIAL WELL IN CAWNPORE. 
 
Twenty-one: Ye:ars in India. 57 
 
 The monument and the garden are beautiful as 
 works of art, but it is the shocking event they 
 commemorate that invests them with such uni- 
 versal interest to all intelligent people the world 
 over. I will conclude this chapter by briefly sum- 
 marizing the causes that led up to the mutiny, 
 as the matter is now understood. 
 
 The trouble with the sepoys respecting the 
 cartridges is one of the causes, no doubt, but it 
 alone could never have produced the great up- 
 heaval of that time. There were other causes 
 that did not appear on the surface of events then 
 transpiring. I think it is now clearly understood 
 that the Mohammedans were the prime movers 
 in that struggle. They ruled the country for sev- 
 eral hundred years before the British took it from 
 them. The purpose with them was to regain their 
 supremacy. They were the leaders in the plot. 
 They had a tradition among them that the Brit- 
 ish supremacy would be for one hundred years; 
 that supremacy began with the battle of Plassey, 
 in 1757, so according to that tradition it would 
 end in 1857, the year of the mutiny. Much was 
 
58 Twenty-one: Ye:ars in India. 
 
 made of that, at the time, and it had great weight 
 with superstitious people. 
 
 The Brahmins were drawn in to co-operate 
 with them, because they saw that, in the order of 
 things brought in by the foreigners, their craft 
 was in danger. They hated our schools, which 
 meant the elevation of the common people. They 
 especially hated female education^ railways, and 
 missionaries, and the English way of administer- 
 ing justice. Their ideas of human equality and 
 progress were especially offensive to the Brah- 
 mins. With them it was a struggle against Chris- 
 tianity, as that means progress, and the overthrow 
 of their system of caste and their forms of idol- 
 atry. 
 
 The Mohammedans and Hindus are antago- 
 nistic, and under no ordinary circumstances could 
 they fraternize and co-operate; but their hatred 
 of the English and all forms of progress, and of 
 Christianity, was so great, that the Hindus of 
 some of the higher castes were led for the 
 time to sink, in some measure, their antipathy 
 toward the Mohammedans, and to join with them 
 
TwKnTy-one Ye:ars in India. 59 
 
 in this effort to sweep out the hated foreigners, 
 who stood for Christianity and progress. 
 
 The mutiny will ever mark a crisis in the his- 
 tory of the English, and of Christianity in India. 
 It was overruled so as to bring in a period of ad- 
 vanced progress in the country. India had been 
 won by the East India Trading Company. It 
 was a great achievement that can hardly be 
 equaled in history; but the company had had its 
 day, and the year following the mutiny the Gov- 
 ernment passed over to the crown, much to the 
 advantage of the country in many ways, as the 
 history of the intervening years will show. 
 
 Another effect which followed the mutiny was 
 greater interest in the work of missions among 
 Government officials, both in the civil and mili- 
 tary departments, and among all classes of Eng- 
 lish people in the country ; but for their liberality 
 we could not have accomplished what we did in 
 opening our Mission Station, as is mentioned in 
 a future chapter. We received encouragement 
 from English people, such as we could not have 
 received before the mutiny occurred. It awak- 
 
6o Tw:^Ni'Y-ONi: Years in India. 
 
 ened a deeper interest in the cause in England, 
 and in this country than had before been felt. It 
 brought in a new era in mission work and of gen- 
 eral progress. 
 
 It was followed by an impression among the 
 more thoughtful of the native population, that 
 the country was to become a Christian country, 
 and this predisposed them to give the Gospel a 
 hearing. I think that this has had much to do 
 with the great progress that has signalized these 
 later years. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Beginning to Open Our "Work. 
 
 The day after our arrival was Sunday, and 
 we intensely enjoyed its rest and quiet. In the 
 afternoon a service was held in the parlor of Mr. 
 Butler's residence, and a good number of promi- 
 nent people were present, especially ladies. The 
 gentlemen were mostly in the plains on duty with 
 the army, or engaged in restoring things to order 
 in places recovered from the sepoys, so we had 
 but few of them with us at this service. Mr. 
 Butler preached a delightful sermon, and it was 
 indeed a treat to hear a sermon again. A little 
 later our superintendent was honored with the 
 title of Doctor of Divinity from one of our home 
 colleges, an honor most worthily bestowed in this 
 instance. He was a very superior preacher; it 
 was said of him that he was the best preacher in 
 
 India. The service begun that afternoon has 
 
 6i 
 
62 Twi:NTY-oNi: Ydars in India. 
 
 been continued ever since. F'or more than a score 
 of years it was conducted as an evening service 
 only; in the morning a Hindustani service was 
 held. Then a morning service in English was 
 begun, which has been continued up to the pres- 
 ent time. Our English Church in Naini Tal has 
 been a power for good in all these years. 
 
 After writing our home letters and getting 
 settled, which occupied a day or two, we began 
 to look about to see what we could do in the way 
 of beginning work among the natives. A school 
 for boys first engaged our attention. Mr. Josiah 
 Parsons had joined Dr. Butler some little time 
 before our arrival, who was living in Naini Tal 
 and waiting to begin work. He had made all 
 the arrangements for our reception. He and his 
 wife both had a good knowledge of the language, 
 and were especially valuable to us at that time 
 on its account. A place was rented in the Bazar, 
 and a school for boys was soon opened under the 
 charge of Mr. Parsons. 
 
 A school for girls was also soon opened in 
 Mr. Pierce's residence, under the charge of the 
 
Twenty-one Years in India. 63 
 
 ladles of the Mission, with more than a score 
 of girls in attendance. These schools have gone 
 on all the intervening years to the present time, 
 and they have done much in shaping the character 
 of the residents of the native community. We 
 also began a Hindustani service on Sunday morn- 
 ing. Having no suitable place in which to hold 
 such a service, an out-building connected with 
 the servants' quarters of Dr. Butler's residence, 
 which was designed for housing sheep, was reno- 
 vated and made suitable for the purpose. My part 
 in the arrangements was to make some seats, 
 which I did with my own hands. I was rather 
 suspicious from the first that what I was doing 
 might be rather superfluous, but it was thought 
 the proper thing, of course, to have seats in a 
 place of worship. Later we learned that the na- 
 tives do not see things just as we do in this and 
 in many other things; a piece of matting or the 
 bare ground would be much preferred by them 
 to benches, or chairs even. 
 
 Early in May the British army entered Rohil- 
 cund, and Bareilly was taken from the mutineers ; 
 
64 Twi:NTY-ON^ Years in India. 
 
 Khan Bahadur Khan, with his followers, had fled 
 in hot haste to the jungles towards Nepal. Many 
 of the leaders were captured and were executed 
 or banished to the Andaman Islands. Those wdio 
 had remained loyal to the British and protected 
 English people during the ascendency of the mu- 
 tineers, were handsomely rewarded. Captain 
 Gowan and other Europeans were protected in a 
 village fifteen or twenty miles out of Bareilly for 
 months, and finally made their escape. General 
 Gowan, as he became in time, for many years 
 supported a native minister and a school in that 
 village. He was a very warm friend of our Mis- 
 sion, and subscribed liberally for its support up 
 to the time of his death, which occurred only a 
 few years since. 
 
 Immediately upon the taking of Bareilly the 
 country settled down and became quiet, as though 
 nothing had happened. This certainly would not 
 have been if the people generally had been in- 
 volved in the uprising. In a very brief time the 
 roads were opened, and travel on the main lines 
 of communication was resumed and became safe 
 
Twenty-one: Years in India. 65 
 
 as before. We soon heard that our goods, that 
 we dispatched from Calcutta nearly three months 
 before, and that we hardly ever expected to see 
 again, had actually arrived at the foot of the 
 mountains, and we were called upon to make ar- 
 rangements for their being brought up the hills 
 to Naini Tal. This was cheering news, indeed. 
 Soon after the way to Naini Tal was opened by 
 Moradabad, Mr. Knowles joined us with his fam- 
 ily, coming from Meerut. 
 
 Mr. Knowles was an officer in a volunteer 
 company of cavalry which did good service in the 
 mutiny, and would have been well cared for had 
 he chosen to remain in Government service, but 
 he chose service for Christ in the mission field, 
 and has had a most useful career. After nearly 
 forty-five years of uninterrupted service, having 
 had only two years' furlough to England in the 
 meantime, at the last session of the North India 
 Conference he took a superannuated relation. 
 He is the senior missionary in our service in the 
 field, and proposes to spend his last days in the 
 field of his life work. He is a superior scholar 
 5 
 
66 Twi:NTY-ONE: Ye:ars in India. 
 
 in the languages of India, and an able preacher, 
 both in English and in the vernaculars. 
 
 We had a service in English in the midweek 
 as well as the Sunday service, which was very 
 well attended by our English friends; at these 
 services we preached in turn. We also began 
 Bazar preaching, which was conducted by Mr. 
 Parsons and Joel Janvier, the native minister. 
 Many plans had to be considered for opening our 
 work in the plains. Rohilcund, with the moun- 
 tain country to the north, had been accepted as 
 our field. There came a letter from our Mis- 
 sion rooms in New York authorizing us to re- 
 consider our field, if we thought it desirable to 
 do so on account of the mutiny. 
 
 It seemed probable that it would be a long 
 time before things would be so settled that we 
 could begin our work ; but instead of abandoning 
 our field, Dr. Butler proposed an immediate en- 
 largement of our plans by occupying the chief 
 cities of Oudh, with a force of not less than 
 twenty-five foreign missionaries. He declared 
 that this had been his plan from the beginning. 
 
TwENTY-ONK Years in India*. 67 
 
 To our great delight, the scheme he outHned was 
 accepted by the Board, and we were informed that 
 a strong re-enforcement to our number would be 
 sent out the following year. This was indeed 
 cheering news to us. We now took Oudh into 
 our plans, and the time seemed to have come to 
 arrange for an immediate occupancy of Lucknow, 
 the capital of the province. Dr. Butler was a 
 man of great faith, of unflinching courage, and 
 unbounded energy; just the man needed at that 
 time. A cautious or a timid man would have 
 hesitated, and the opportunity would possibly 
 have been lost to us, to lay the broad foundations 
 that were laid for our work, and which the grand 
 results of the years gone by have abundantly jus- 
 tified. 
 
 The chief commissioner and other high offi- 
 cials of Oudh gave us much encouragement to 
 begin at once and occupy Lucknow. Early in 
 September, Dr. Butler and Mr. Pierce left for 
 Lucknow, where they found things even more 
 encouraging than they anticipated. They soon 
 fixed upon a location, purchased property, and 
 
68 TwENTY-ONK Ye:ars in India. 
 
 began the preparation of residences for the mis- 
 sionaries who were to conduct the work of the 
 station. On the way down from the hills. Dr. 
 Butler and Mr. Pierce spent a Sunday in Bareilly 
 as the guests of Colonel Troop, Dr. Butler's 
 friend in Bareilly before the mutiny occurred. Dr. 
 Butler settled in Bareilly in January, 1857, ^^^ 
 opened a service for English people in his parlor. 
 Colonel Troop was officiating as the commanding 
 officer of the station. Colonel Sibbald, the com- 
 mandant, had gone for a tour in the hills. About 
 the middle of May, Colonel Troop sent word to 
 Dr. Butler, informing him that the native troops 
 could not be relied upon, and that it was his 
 opinion that they would mutiny in a very few 
 days ; that they were only waiting to mature their 
 plans. He said he was about to issue an order 
 for all foreign ladies and non-combatants to leave 
 at once for Naini Tal, where they would be com- 
 paratively safe if the sepoys did mutiny. They 
 were all in a very exposed condition in Bareilly, 
 and there would be but a very slight hope of es- 
 cape should the mutiny actually occur. He re- 
 
TwEnTy-onk Years in India. 69 
 
 quested Dr. Butler to go with his family also, and 
 use his influence to allay the irritation among the 
 ladies his order would be likely to create. These 
 ladies were mostly wives of officers in the army 
 and civil officers of government. 
 
 People generally had confidence in the sepoys, 
 and could not be made to think they would mutiny 
 and turn upon them, as they had done in other 
 places. The officers and families often become 
 strongly attached to the men with whom they 
 are so intimately connected. There is a feeling of 
 comradeship awakened in military regiments that 
 is very marked and interesting. It is so every- 
 where, but it was especially so in the service in 
 those days. The officers had led their men in 
 many campaigns, and on many a battlefield, and 
 they had never failed them. It was not strange 
 that it was hard for the officers to believe that 
 their men would turn against them, protesting 
 their loyalty, even with tears in many instances, 
 as they did, when the ladies and children were be- 
 ing sent away to a place of safety. In some 
 cases the sepoys came to their officers and begged 
 
70 Twe^nty-one: Yejars in India. 
 
 them not to send away their famihes, as it was 
 a reflection upon them; this when they fully ex- 
 pected to mutiny in a very short time. It is not 
 easy for Anglo-Saxons to realize what adepts at 
 fraud and deception Orientals are. The ladies 
 sent from Bareilly with Dr. Butler met the com- 
 manding officer on his return to Bareilly at the 
 foot of the mountains, about a dozen or fifteen 
 miles from Naini Tal. He was greatly incensed 
 towards Colonel Troop, and expressed his dis- 
 pleasure in terms not complimentary. His wife 
 and daughters were among the ladies dispatched 
 to the hills. At first he threatened to compel 
 them all to return, but he hardly dared to take 
 the responsibility of anything so rash. Then he 
 insisted that his own wife and daughters should 
 return, but he finally thought better of it, and 
 relented. He stoutly maintained that the sepoys 
 under his command would not prove false to their 
 salt, that such events as sending away the people 
 were only calculated to provoke mutiny. He, 
 however, after a time, went on his way to Ba- 
 reilly, and the ladies and Dr. Butler pursued their 
 
Twenty-one Years in India. 71 
 
 retreat to the refuge in the mountains, which was 
 to serve them so well in the months to come. 
 
 For two weeks everything remained quiet, 
 and many were sure the danger had passed, if, 
 indeed, there had been any. During this period, 
 Colonel Troop was the subject of much ridicule. 
 Monday morning, June ist, the usual mails did 
 not arrive, and much alarm was felt on its ac- 
 count. The next morning one and another of the 
 officers began to arrive, many of them without 
 hats or coats, and all more dead than alive. So 
 the storm had actually burst at last. 
 
 On Sunday morning, May 31st, the sepoys 
 mutinied, and fired on their officers; the first to 
 fall was Colonel Sibbald, the commanding officer. 
 Colonel Troop was dressing for church, when one 
 of his servants rushed in and told him to flee as 
 the mutineers were at the front door arranging 
 to set fire to the dwelling. His faithful Sais, 
 groom, had hastily saddled his horse and had him 
 at the rear of his house; he mounted and made 
 his way round the eastern end of the city and 
 took the road to Naini Tal, where he at length 
 
72 Twi:NTY-ONE: Yi:ars in India. 
 
 arrived in safety. He told me that during the in- 
 terval of quiet, before the outbreak occurred, one 
 of the ladies wrote an article for one of the Eng- 
 lish papers, severely criticising him, and in some 
 strange way it came back to Naini Tal some 
 months afterward, while they were shut up there. 
 The lady who wrote it came to him and, with 
 tears, apologized. He begged her not to give her- 
 self a moment's distress, that it was God's way 
 of sending them deliverance from an awful death. 
 Dr. Butler and Mr. Pierce preached for some 
 of the regiments stationed at Bareilly, and ar- 
 ranged with the two Presbyterian chaplains, one 
 of the Forty-second, and the other of the Ninety- 
 third Highlanders, for me to come down and take 
 their duties for a month and give them a change 
 and rest for this time. They had been at the 
 taking of Lucknow and on the campaign that 
 followed, ending with the taking of Bareilly, and 
 all through the hot season that followed, so they 
 much needed rest and a change to Naini Tal. I 
 was very glad to relieve them, as it would give 
 me an opportunity to look the ground over and 
 
Twi:NTY-ON^ YKARS IN InDIA. 73 
 
 see what could be done towards opening our 
 work in that place. This was to be my station, 
 as soon as we could make a beginning. I had 
 quarters in the officers' mess-house of the Forty- 
 second Regiment. 
 
 On my first Sunday I had four services to 
 conduct. Our good friend, Colonel Troop, took 
 me in his carriage around to each place where 
 service was to be held, and made me acquainted 
 with the routine of duties I was to perform, and 
 introduced me to the officers commanding the dif- 
 ferent regiments with which I was expected to 
 hold service. The last service of the day was held 
 on the parade ground just as the sun was setting. 
 The regiment was formed up as a hollow square, 
 with one side open. Here I stood with a drum 
 for my pulpit, the colonel of the regiment and 
 other mounted officers standing about me. I ad- 
 dressed them and felt that much of the Divine 
 presence attended us, and I think many felt it 
 good to be there. Many years afterward my 
 friend, then General Troop, told me that that 
 regiment was at that time without a chaplain, 
 
74 Twenty-one: Ye:ars in India. 
 
 and that a petition was sent in for my appoint- 
 ment as such. This, he said, is something you 
 never knew of, nor had I ever heard of such a 
 thing. While I was in Bareilly, Dr. Butler re- 
 turned from Lucknow, and I had the pleasure of 
 introducing him to our colonel of the Forty-sec- 
 ond Regiment, who invited him to dine with the 
 officers at their mess-room. We were treated 
 with the greatest respect and courtesy, and I be- 
 came much attached to several of the officers of 
 this famous regiment, known as the "Black 
 Watch." 
 
 While here in Bareilly we did what we could 
 to arrange for the reopening of our work. The 
 magistrate of Bareilly, Mr. John Inglis, sug- 
 gested that we should apply to Government for a 
 place known as Cashmere Kotee, a place five miles 
 away on the opposite side of the city from can- 
 tonments, where the military and civil offices are 
 located. Cashmere Kotee had been a palatial resi- 
 dence in its day; it was built by one of the old- 
 school civilians who had lived there in the style 
 of a Nawab; but it had long since ceased to be 
 
Twe:nty-one: Ye:ars in India. 75 
 
 regarded as a desirable residence on account of 
 its location, and so had passed into the hands of 
 a wealthy native, who had joined the mutineers 
 and had been executed, and the estate confiscated. 
 Mr. Inglis proposed that we apply to Govern- 
 ment for it on a nominal rental, and as it ulti- 
 mately would be sold at auction, we might bid it 
 in and obtain it at a very low sum. As there was 
 a village belonging to the property, it would give 
 us an annual income of a few hundred rupees and 
 quite a large quantity of land for building pur- 
 poses. It was thought it would serve as ad- 
 mirably for our orphanages, and for our Mis- 
 sion as a whole. The application was made, and 
 we could now only wait the action of Government. 
 Dr. Butler left me and went on his way to Naini 
 Tal. 
 
 It was now arranged for Mr. Parsons to go 
 down and begin work in Moradabad, while I was 
 to go to Bareilly as soon as our location could be 
 secured. As yet we had no reply to our applica- 
 tion for Cashmere Kotee. Dr. Butler had pur- 
 chased property as a site for our Mission in Naini 
 
"jd Twe:nty-one: Yi:ars in India. 
 
 Tal. A fine location was secured, consisting 
 of several acres of land in a most central place, 
 well suited for our schools and Church purposes. 
 There was a house on it, but as the name indi- 
 cated, the chief value of the location did not con- 
 sist in the residence; it was very appropriately 
 called ''The Ruins," but with some slight repairs 
 it made a comfortable home for a good number 
 of years. A school building was already being- 
 built and nearing completion, and plans had been 
 prepared for the erection of a Mission church. 
 Major Ramsey, Commissioner of Kumaon and 
 Gharwal, who was a warm friend, and had sub- 
 scribed most liberally for it, laid the corner-stone 
 one morning in October, after which a hymn was 
 sung, and a prayer offered, for a special blessing 
 upon this, our first place of worship erected in 
 India. 
 
 Soon after this event, Dr. Butler, with his 
 family and Mr. Pierce's, left us to take up their 
 residence in Lucknow, where Mr. Pierce was at 
 the time. Joel Janvier, our native minister, ac- 
 companied them. It was a long and trying jour- 
 ney, occupying about four days. The custom was 
 
Twenty-one Years in India. "j^ 
 
 at that time to travel at night, resting during the 
 day, and our only way of getting about was by 
 Dooley Dak. A dooley was a cot with a frame- 
 work covered with light, coarse cotton cloth ; this 
 was carried on men's shoulders. Six or eight 
 men were required to a dooley, with one man to 
 carry a torch. When a journey was to be made a 
 man was called from the Bazar who had charge 
 of this service, under the direction of the magis- 
 trate of the district. He would bring a book 
 with him, in which we would write our orders for 
 bearers, the day and hour we wished to start. The 
 men would be ready at every Chaukey, about ten 
 miles, for a change. In this way we could make 
 a journey of fifty or sixty miles in a night. This 
 sort of travel is now done away with, the railway 
 having taken its place. We soon moved into the 
 mission house, Mr. Knowles and family occupy- 
 ing one part, while we occupied the other. 
 
 I preached my first sermon in Hindustani in 
 the temporary place of worship made out of the 
 sheep-house, in September, 1858. 
 
 Mr. Knowles and myself made several preach- 
 
78 Twi:nTy-one: Years in India. 
 
 ing tours about in different directions. I made 
 a journey to Almorah and made the acquaintance 
 of Rev. J. H. Budden, a missionary of the Lon- 
 don Missionary Society, with whom we had most 
 pleasant relations for many years. One of his 
 daughters became the wife of Dr. Gray, of our 
 Mission, now living in New Jersey. Another 
 daughter. Miss Anna Budden, is a member of our 
 Woman's Foreign Missionary Society, and has 
 done a great work in Eastern Kumaon. A son 
 of my old friend, Mr. Anson Budden, holds a 
 high and responsible position under Government 
 in the educational department. A year before 
 leaving India, I had the pleasure to attend the 
 dedication services of a beautiful church, built 
 through the instrumentality of the children, as a 
 memorial to their honored father, who labored 
 very faithfully for more than forty years for the 
 people of these mountains. Mr. Budden was a 
 scholarly and able missionary, and a brother 
 greatly beloved. Our relations were very inti- 
 mate and delightful for many years. I felt it to 
 be a great honor to be permitted to preach the 
 sermon on the occasion of the dedication of this 
 
Twenty-one: Ykars in India. 79 
 
 beautiful memorial to a good and noble mission- 
 ary whom I loved and honored. 
 
 To return to my narrative, we conducted a 
 service on Sunday and once during the week for 
 European soldiers located at Naini Tal, and vis- 
 ited the sick in the military hospital. 
 
 By the end of the year the walls of the church 
 were up ready for the roof, and a neat, commo- 
 dious school building was completed ready for use. 
 In January we went down to Moradabad, found 
 Mr. Parsons and family living in a tent pitched 
 under a magnificent tree with wide extended 
 boughs, thus affording protection from the chilly 
 night air and the heat of the sun at mid-day. 
 
 We received a very warm welcome, and it 
 seemed as though we had entered another coun- 
 try. In Naini Tal it was cold and rough, but 
 here it was like the end of September or begin- 
 ning of October. Mr. Parsons had secured the 
 loan of a tent for us, and we were soon settled in 
 our canvas home, and greatly enjoyed the change 
 from the mountains to the plains, and were eager 
 to begin the work to which we had been so long 
 looking forward. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 Opening Work in Moradabad and Bareilly. 
 
 I HAD gone down to Moradabad at Dr. But- 
 ler's request, to assist Mr. Parsons to get settled, 
 while I was waiting for the way to open to go to 
 Bareilly. We were directed to secure a residence, 
 either by renting, or purchase. The residences 
 of the station for the use of Europeans were all 
 burned in the mutiny ; in most instances the walls 
 were left standing; only a few of them had been 
 repaired up to the time we arrived, and these were 
 occupied by military officers. It seemed, there- 
 fore, quite impossible to find a place without 
 building, and that could not be done before the 
 hot weather would set in, and Mr. and Mrs. Par- 
 sons could not live in tents at that time. At 
 length we succeeded in finding a place that might, 
 we thought, be made habitable with some repair- 
 ing. We at once secured the place and set about 
 
 80 
 
TwKnTy-one: Years in India. 8i 
 
 making the necessary repairs. While we were 
 thus engaged a man came in to see tis who Hved 
 about twenty miles out on the road to Garmakh- 
 teser on the Ganges. He said he represented a 
 class of people who lived out in that part of the 
 district, who were called "Mazhibi Sikhs," and 
 that they all desired to become Christians. The 
 word "Mazhibi" pertains to religion; strictly it 
 means religious, and in their case it meant that 
 they for some cause had embraced the Sikh re- 
 ligion. It seems probable that they had been led 
 by some of their Garus, or teachers, to embrace 
 the religion of Nanak. This man who came to 
 us at that time, told us this story, which intensely 
 interested us. He said that before the mutiny 
 their Garu, or teacher, heard the missionaries of 
 Futtigarh preach at a great mela on the Ganges, 
 just before his death, which occurred during the 
 time of the mutiny. He told them as well as he 
 could about what he had heard, and then said, 
 "Some day, before long, the missionaries will come 
 to Moradabad, and when you hear that they have 
 
 come, go to them and do what they tell you." We 
 6 
 
8z Twi:nty-onk Ye:ars in India. 
 
 were, as can be imagined, thrilled by his story, 
 and set a day when we would go out and meet 
 as many as could come together at the village of 
 Jua, about twenty miles out on the road to the 
 Ganges. Upon our arrival, on the day appointed, 
 we found a large number of people assembled and 
 waiting for us, and eager for instruction as to 
 what they must do to become Christians. We 
 saw at once that they were poor and very igno- 
 rant ; beyond this we knew but very little of them 
 at that time. We were greatly moved, however, 
 by their desire to ally themselves to us, and to be 
 instructed as to what they must do to be saved. 
 The hours spent with them that day under the 
 shade of a fine, large tree, will never be forgot- 
 ten. After speaking to them for some time, we 
 told them that we would have a season of prayer, 
 and we explained what it is to pray, and how we 
 can come to God and speak to Him, and He will 
 hear us and help us, though we can not see Him. 
 They all prostrated themselves before God, 
 after the manner of Orientals, on their faces. I 
 led in prayer, speaking very slowly and in the 
 
Twenty-one: Years in India. 83 
 
 most simple language. I soon noticed that they 
 were trying to repeat the words after me. I then 
 proceeded, a single sentence at a time, waiting 
 for them to repeat it over after me. In this way 
 they began to learn the language of prayer. Re- 
 peating it after us helped to fix their attention, 
 and at the same time teach them the language of 
 prayer. We afterwards very generally adopted 
 this method and found it very useful. 
 
 Among the children present, I noticed a little 
 girl who was very fair for a native ; she was really 
 a beautiful child, very bright and pleasing in her 
 ways. I saw her grow up to become a very use- 
 ful and intelligent woman. I taught her medicine, 
 and she gained great honor in treating the people 
 for their diseases and showing them what they 
 must do to be saved. When I went out last, 
 though very ill and nearing her end, she begged 
 her friends to bring her to see me. I found her 
 rejoicing in Christ as her Savior. A few days 
 later she passed within the veil whither Christ, 
 who was very precious to her, had gone before. 
 
 We had been deeply saddened in the mutiny 
 
84 Twenty-one: Yi:ars in India. 
 
 days by the cruel death of the missionaries of 
 Futtigarh, four families massacred on the parade 
 ground at Cawnpore by order of Nana Sahib, 
 but now we were reaping the harvest of their 
 faithful sowing. The truth preached by them, 
 that may have seemed to fall on very sterile 
 ground, had sprung up in places little thought of, 
 and in ways unknown to man. So God takes care 
 of the seed His servants sow. Not a word spoken, 
 not a prayer offered, not a tear shed, not a life 
 given for Him, shall be in vain. 
 
 This movement among these people was hailed 
 by us all with great delight; it was naturally 
 thought to be of great importance. We were 
 aware that we had great ignorance to deal with, 
 and that the motives of these people were mixed 
 with much that was material and sordid ; but still 
 it seemed evident that there was much about it 
 that was hopeful, and that the Holy Spirit was 
 shedding His blessed light on these dark minds. 
 So we determined to watch over this movement 
 and encourage it in every way in our power, and 
 at the same time be on our guard and not expect 
 
TwENTY-ONK Years in India. 85 
 
 too much on one hand, nor be too suspicious and 
 doubting on the other. We soon learned that 
 they did not bear a very good reputation; they 
 were generally Chaukadars, or watchmen. They 
 were made such on the principle "that it takes 
 a thief to catch a thief,'' or perhaps it is a principle 
 of honor among thieves in India, not to steal from 
 those who are under the protection of one of their 
 own clan. Later, in the history of our work, we 
 should have been less suspicious, and, perhaps, 
 baptized them sooner than we did. I was at that 
 time disinclined to administer the ordinance with- 
 out some indication of the fact that those to whom 
 it was administered had some good degree of ap- 
 preciation of what it all signified. 
 
 In India the circumstances are very peculiar, 
 and baptism has a significance among the people 
 that it does not have with us, and that it does 
 not have among any other people in the world. 
 They may think as they will, and call themselves 
 by whatever name they please; so long as they 
 are not baptized their relation to their own people 
 remains unchanged ; but as vSoon as baptized, the}^ 
 
86 Twenty-one: Ye:ars in India. 
 
 are cut off from their own people and known as 
 Christians. 
 
 To gain this much is an advantage, as it 
 places them under our care where we can instruct 
 them without hindrance. A man expresses a de- 
 sire for Christian baptism ; if sincere, as we must 
 think him to be until we have some evidence to 
 the contrary, he shows the work of the Holy 
 Spirit in his heart, and so justifies the administra- 
 tion of the ordinance to him. It is not laid down 
 in the Scriptures how much light a man must 
 have to be entitled to receive baptism. This, I 
 think, must be left to the administrator very 
 largely. It is clear that he must have some 
 knowledge of sin, and of Christ as a Savior from 
 it. I think our missionaries in India are sure as 
 far as this, as to how these cases are to be treated. 
 A certain degree of knowledge and conviction is 
 necessary, but people asking baptism should not 
 be held off too long ; but baptizing them, we must 
 provide for their instruction. Here lies the great 
 problem to be solved in India to-day, how are we 
 to provide for the instruction of the masses who 
 
TwKNTY-ONE Years in India. 87 
 
 are urgently asking Christian baptism? The 
 urgency of the case is sure to increase. This re- 
 sponsibiHty is upon the Church. Will she meet it ? 
 God grant that she may ! 
 
 This movement among the Sikhs brought this 
 subject prominently before us : When may baptism 
 be properly administered to these people? It 
 took some years for us to reach a settled conclu- 
 sion as to the proper mode of procedure in these 
 cases. It seems to be well settled now in the 
 minds of our missionaries. 
 
 In a few weeks the house we had rented for 
 Mr. Parsons and family was ready for occupancy, 
 and they moved in. About this time Dr. Butler 
 wrote, asking me to meet him in Bareilly, when 
 we had to make a journey out into the district 
 of about twenty miles to meet Mr. Inglis to see 
 if we could come to some agreement as to our 
 occupying Cashmere Kotee. We found him in 
 camp, and had a most delightful evening with 
 him. Here it may be well to explain that Eng- 
 lish officials spend the most of the cold season, 
 which lasts from October until March or April, 
 
88 Twenty-one: Years in India. 
 
 out in camp, living in tents and moving about 
 among the people. They spend usually a day or 
 two in a place, then moving on to another lo- 
 cality. They, in this way, become acquainted 
 with the condition and needs of the people, hear 
 their complaints, settle their disputes, and save a 
 great deal of litigation in the courts, and conse- 
 quently expense and trouble. This kind of ad- 
 ministration accords with the ideas of the people. 
 I have seen officers settle cases in five minutes on 
 the ground, among the people, that would have 
 taken months to settle in the courts in the usual 
 way, and save the parties a great amount of 
 travel, expense, and worry. The Government re- 
 quires officers to be out among the people in this 
 way nearly all the cold weather, and makes an 
 extra allowance to them to meet expenses in- 
 volved. It is most delightful in camp in India 
 during the cold season. The weather is almost 
 uniformly pleasant and not so cold as to be un- 
 pleasant. Missionaries, as a rule, spend as much 
 of their time in this way as possible, and find it 
 exceedingly profitable. Many of our native 
 
TwKNTY-ONE YE^ARS IN InDIA. 89 
 
 Christians live out in the district, and the mis- 
 sionaries can only visit them at their homes dur- 
 ing this season and make the acquaintance of their 
 heathen neighbors, hold service with them, and 
 carry the knowledge of Christ to many villages 
 where it would otherwise not be known. 
 
 Itinerating is a very important department of 
 the work, and if more of it could be done it would 
 be all the better. The ladies of the Woman's So- 
 ciety are prosecuting this kind of work nowadays 
 with much vigor and success. 
 
 As a result of our visit to Mr. Inglis, it was 
 settled that we should proceed and occupy Cash- 
 mere Kotee, not waiting longer for a reply to 
 our application to the lieutenant-governor of the 
 Northwest. Mr. Inglis felt quite safe in assum- 
 ing that our application would be successful, and 
 expressed his great pleasure that we were to open 
 work in Bareilly at once. I returned to Morada- 
 bad and proceeded to complete arrangements for 
 removing to Bareilly. In a few days our belong- 
 ings, in charge of our servants, were on their way 
 to our new home. 
 
90 Twe:nty-one: Years in India. 
 
 We had a few days before engaged as Khan- 
 samah, or table servant, a young Mohammedan 
 named Peer Bakhs. He was the servant of an 
 EngHsh family of our acquaintance in the time 
 of the mutiny, and was very faithful and true to 
 them, and did much for them in the way of sav- 
 ing their property, and in aiding them to make 
 their escape. He lived with us about twelve years, 
 and was one of the best and most reliable servants 
 I have ever known, and we became greatly at- 
 tached to him. His health failed, so that he could 
 not live in the climate of the mountains where our 
 home was, and we were obliged to let him return 
 to his native place in the plains, where he passed 
 away in a few years. He never publicly professed 
 faith in Christ, but I believe he secretly trusted 
 in Him as our Savior from our sins. 
 
 We left on the evening of February 25th, and 
 arrived at our destination the following morn- 
 ing. We found what had once been a palatial 
 residence, in the center of a large plat of ground 
 surrounded by a ditch and tall Indian grass. The 
 whole place was sadly run down and desolate in 
 
Twenty-one) Years in India. 91 
 
 the extreme. The walls were blackened and 
 broken, the roof had fallen in over a considerable 
 portion of the building, the windows were broken, 
 and it was generally in a most dilapidated and un- 
 inviting condition. It had been used by the muti- 
 neers and by other bodies of native soldiers^ by 
 the police, and, last of all, by a company of Euro- 
 pean soldiers. 
 
 It showed unmistakable marks of age, hard 
 usage, and neglect. We succeeded in making a 
 room or two habitable; but in the night jackals 
 roamed at will through it in spite of all we could 
 do to the contrary, as if contesting our right of 
 occupancy. Perhaps they did not know of our 
 arrival, for they never troubled us again. We 
 learned later, fortunately for us, that the place 
 was infested with a large and very venomous black 
 snake. I say fortunately for us, as it was well 
 that we did not know this at the beginning, as 
 we had quite enough already to depress and dis- 
 courage us without this. About one year before 
 this a crisis came in the history of Bareilly. Two 
 armies arrived, one from the East under Sir Col- 
 
93 Twenty-one: Ye:ars in India. 
 
 lin Campbell, the other from the West, known as 
 General Penney's division, though the general 
 himself had been killed some days before their 
 arrival. As this force opened fire on the western 
 gate of the city, Sir Collin responded on the east 
 side, and before night these armies fought their 
 way through the city and met in the grounds of 
 the Government College. The mutineers were 
 broken and fleeing with all possible haste away to 
 the jungles towards Nepal. This, of course, 
 must mark a crisis in the history of this city and 
 section of the country. The morning of the 26th 
 of February, 1859, two forces met here as before, 
 one from the East and the other from the West, 
 approaching along the same lines as those of the 
 previous year. The party from the West was a 
 missionary and his wife, and the other from the 
 East was a native minister, his wife, and two chil- 
 dren — a son and daughter — in an ox cart. 
 
 No booming cannon announced our arrival 
 that morning; no bugle blasts were heard; no 
 flashing sabers or bristling bayonets were seen. 
 It was a day of small things, as the world esti- 
 
Twenty-one Years in India. 93 
 
 mates values, and yet it was a day that would 
 mark a more momentous crisis in the history of 
 Bareilly than any that had come to her before. 
 The time will come when the historian will v/ish 
 to gather up the items of this day as they oc- 
 curred, and it will be recognized as marking a 
 new and better era to all this province, of which 
 Bareilly is the capital. It was a momentous hour 
 to us ; we felt that we were this day commissioned 
 as ambassadors for Christ to this great, turbulent, 
 and wicked city. We felt Christ very near us ; the 
 ground on which we stood seemed to be holy 
 ground. I think I never felt the grandeur of our 
 high and holy calling as missionaries as I did that 
 hour, I shall never forget that day; it was a 
 marked day in my life. I felt it to be a very 
 great honor to be permitted to raise the Gospel 
 standard here. But we had much to do to get a 
 place ready to shelter ourselves for the night, but 
 we were soon settled as well as we could expect 
 to be at this juncture of affairs. 
 
 I think it was the day of our arrival that a 
 Sawar, native trooper, came dashing into our 
 
94 Twknty-one: Ykars in India. 
 
 compound — the inclosure surrounding a resi- 
 dence — bearing a communication from the Mag- 
 istrate Sahib John Ingiis, in which he expressed 
 his pleasure to know that we had arrived, and re- 
 quested me not to begin preaching in the city for 
 a few days as he would be absent in camp. He 
 said it was best that he should be in the station 
 when we opened our work in the city, as the peo- 
 ple were much excited and might give trouble. 
 They were very hostile towards the Government 
 and Christians generally at that particular time, 
 and it was feared that our preaching might serve 
 as an occasion for an outbreak. 
 
 So, for a few weeks, we were occupied in re- 
 pairing our residence and in visiting the villages 
 about the city within a distance of a few miles, so 
 that they could be reached in the evening, the 
 cooler part of the day. It was our purpose to go 
 into the city and deliver our message there as 
 soon as possible. 
 
 In a few weeks we learned that Mr. Inglis 
 had returned and was present at the station. The 
 word station may need explanation; it is gen- 
 
Twe:nty-one: Yi:ars in India. 95 
 
 erally applied to the portion of a city where for- 
 eigners hve; a raihvay depot the Enghsh call a 
 station. Out of the Presidency towns they gen- 
 erally live outside the city in a section set apart 
 for the troops and Government offices, and the 
 foreign residents generally; this section is called 
 a station or cantonments. This section is care- 
 fully laid out, excellent roads are made, and all 
 is under strict sanitary regulations. These sta- 
 tions in India are usually very beautiful and at- 
 tractive. 
 
 India, itself, all through the great Gangetic 
 valley, is very beautiful. It is a vast plain, very 
 fertile, covered in certain seasons with vast fields 
 of wheat and other grains peculiar to the coun- 
 try. The people live in villages, which are squalid 
 and uninteresting, as explained in the first chap- 
 ter. But there is usually a grove of trees 
 near by, and the beautiful palm-tree, with 
 its feathery top, is seen in almost any direction to 
 which you may turn your attention. 
 
 We now determined to make a beginning in 
 the city. It contained a large Moslem popula- 
 
96 Twenty-one: Years in India. 
 
 tion, which was regarded especially fanatical and 
 turbulent. Many of this class had been tried in 
 the courts and convicted of murder in the mutiny, 
 and executed or banished to the Kali-Pani, the 
 Andamans. The people were excited and very 
 bitter in their feelings, and were altogether in a 
 bad frame of mind. 
 
 Just at this time, and under these conditions, 
 we proposed to begin preaching in the very heart 
 of the city. Never had such a thing been at- 
 tempted before. It was indeed a critical under- 
 taking, perhaps more so than we at the time sup- 
 posed. What would be the effect upon the peo- 
 ple? How would they look upon it, and how 
 would they receive it at this time ? It was in this 
 way the officers of Government looked at it, and 
 not unnaturally so, as they knew that many would 
 think that the Government had sent us, and was 
 going to compel them to become Christians. 
 
 We thought it the only thing to do, and were 
 not in the least worried as to results. W^e felt 
 that we were not our own, we were not going on 
 
Twenty-one Years in India. 97 
 
 our own business, or on our charges; that the 
 work was the Lord's, and we were going at His 
 command. We proposed in His name to set up 
 our standard in the city, and ieit we were in the 
 way He was leading us, and that he would make 
 us victorious over all our enemies, so we need not 
 fear. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Beginning Preaching in the City ; Baptism of 
 Our First Convert. 
 
 We soon became acquainted with a number 
 of people living in cantonments, who took great 
 pains to call on us and express an interest in our 
 work. The influence of the mutiny was fresh 
 in the minds of all at this time, and it had a tend- 
 ency to lead many English people to feel a deeper 
 interest in missions than they had done before. 
 In the early history of the British in India the 
 only thought that moved them seemed to be gain. 
 It was so with the company in England, and it 
 was none the less so with the company's repre- 
 sentatives in India. Gradually the people of Eng- 
 land awoke to the fact that India had been given 
 to them for a higher purpose than commercial ad- 
 vantage, and that a responsibility was laid upon 
 them to give the people of this great empire the 
 Gospel. At first the company refused to permit 
 
 98 
 
TwENTY-ONB Years in India. 99 
 
 missionaries to enter the country; but at length 
 it was compelled to give way, and permit them 
 to labor for the people without restraint or inter- 
 ference. 
 
 Public sentiment, too, in England demanded 
 the abolition of suttee— the burning of widows 
 with the dead bodies of their husbands — and the 
 patronizing of idolatrous shrines and practices 
 on the part of the Government. There have been 
 all along among the representatives of the East 
 India Company some excellent Christian men; 
 but they were comparatively few in the early his- 
 tory of the British in India. The majority ig- 
 nored all responsibility towards the people in a 
 religious sense. One effect of the mutiny was to 
 awaken a feeling of obligation to God and the 
 people of this great country, and many were led 
 to feel an interest in religious work in the coun- 
 try as they had not felt it before. The impression 
 I received from my last years in India leads me to 
 feel that among English officials now there is not 
 the interest in missionary work that there was 
 when we began our work immediately after the 
 
 ^■oic. 
 
loo Twe:nty-one: Ykars in India. 
 
 mutiny. There seems a tendency to disparage 
 missionary work, and to criticise native Chris- 
 tians, that is more manifest in certain circles of 
 EngHsh official life, than was the case years ago. 
 I doubt if there are as many outspoken friends of 
 missions among high officials, either in the army 
 or in the civil service, as there were in the years 
 following the mutiny. This is not because of any 
 lack of success in the work, but from a lack of 
 interest in religion generally. I would not have 
 it inferred that there are no earnest, devoted 
 Christian men in the service in India to-day; I 
 am glad to say I am sure there are many such; 
 but men like Sir Henry Ramsey, Sir Henry and 
 John Lawrence, Sir Donald McLeod, and Sir 
 Herbert Edwards, are not very often met with 
 nowadays. 
 
 Sometimes I think it may be that some great 
 calamity is needed to bring a certain class of high 
 officials of India nearer to God. I am sure God 
 is presiding over the English in India, and only 
 as He is honored will they prosper and escape 
 His judgments. 
 
'f wknty-one: Years in India. ioi 
 
 To return to our narrative: we felt the time 
 had come when we must unfurl the banner of the 
 Cross of Christ in the heart of the city of Ba- 
 reilly. Evening is the best time generally for 
 Bazar preaching, so we arranged to begin at that 
 time. We resolved to make our opening in the 
 Chauk, the most public place in the city. We 
 were fully conscious of possible danger, but we 
 thought little of that; we were most anxious to 
 feel assured that our dear Lord was leading us, 
 and that He should go with us, and stand by us in 
 our effort to make Him known to the bigoted 
 and wicked people of this large city, though nat- 
 urally no worse than we are, and whose souls are 
 just as precious as our own. 
 
 Before leaving for the Bazar, we met in my 
 study for a season of prayer. We deeply felt our 
 dependence upon God, and were sure He would 
 not fail us in this time of need. I think I can 
 truly say that I have never felt Christ so near me 
 as I did in my efforts to preach Him to the peo- 
 ple under such circumstances as surrounded us 
 at that time. I have felt His special presence and 
 
I02 TwE:N'rY-oNi: Years in India. 
 
 support in all efforts to make Him known in a 
 way that has made the fact of His approval per- 
 fectly conclusive to my mind. After prayer we 
 went immediately to the Chauk where we pro- 
 posed to make our beginning in the name of the 
 Lord. 
 
 The city of Bareilly is long and narrow. One 
 main street runs through it from east to west. 
 This is fully three miles long. About midway is 
 what is called the Chauk ; but this is not a square, 
 but the street for some distance widens out to 
 more than double its usual width. This becomes 
 the official and business center of the city, the 
 more important public buildings are located here 
 and other buildings needed in the government of 
 the city. This place is always crowded with peo- 
 ple buying and selling in the afternoons and early 
 evening. The Banyas spread their wares and 
 commodities out on the ground, and people crowd 
 about to buy. It is a busy, noisy place; the air is 
 full of dust ; not a very good place to preach, one 
 might think, but the people are here, and our aim 
 is to get at the people. Here, at one end of the 
 
Twenty-one Years in India. 103 
 
 Chauk, we found a place where we could stand 
 elevated a little above the crowd. 
 
 I began by reading John iii, 16: "Kyiinki 
 Khada ne jahan ko aisa piyar kiya hai, ke, us ne 
 apna iklauta beta bakhsha, taki jo koi us per iman 
 lawe halak na howe, balki hamesha ki zindagi 
 pawe." Attention was immediately secured, and 
 all business ceased, all seemed anxious to catch 
 every word, and the closest attention was paid 
 to all we said. I began by saying something like 
 the following, as near as I can now recall : "You 
 will wish to know who we are^ and what we have 
 come for? Well, I will tell you. We are not Gov- 
 ernment servants, but servants of the Lord Jesus 
 Christ, the Savior of the world. We have come 
 to tell you about Him. He says, God loved us 
 and sent Him into the world to die for us on ac- 
 count of our sins, that we might not perish, but 
 have eternal life." I said : "We are missionaries 
 and have come to live among you as neighbors and 
 friends, and teach you what you must do to be 
 saved. I know you do not think as we do, but it 
 is wise to inquire and try to find the true way to 
 
I04 Tw^NTY-ON^ Yi:ars in India. 
 
 heaven. We can not compel you to become Chris- 
 tians, we can only show you the way; then it re- 
 mains for you to do as we wish you to do or not, 
 and the responsibility must rest upon you. If 
 you wished to go to Moradabad, and there were 
 two roads before you, and you could not tell 
 which one to take, and I should tell you to take 
 the one to the right, and you should take the one 
 to the left, saying, *I do not believe the Sahib 
 knows,' — so you see you can choose which road 
 you will take. Well, you go a long way and be- 
 come so very tired, and find out that you have 
 taken the wrong road, and had all this trouble for 
 nothing; you could not blame me. You would 
 say the Sahib did know, and I ought to have be- 
 lieved him. I wish I had believed him, it would 
 have saved me so much trouble! Well, brothers, 
 there is only one way to heaven for us all; now, 
 do you not believe that? I know you do. Now, 
 where is that way? That is the great question. 
 You must seek to know the truth, for the truth 
 will stand," etc. Then I said: "You know a 
 few months ago Khan Bahadur Khan thought he 
 
Twe:nty-one: Ykars in India. 105 
 
 was a great man and called himself 'Nawab Sa- 
 hib/ and you people all made a very low salaam, 
 and said, 'Nawab >Sahib !' He thought he would 
 kill all the Christians so that there would not be 
 any left in India. He sat right over there, and 
 had Judge Robertson and Hay Sahib brought be- 
 fore him, and said they were kafirs, infidels, and 
 ought to die, so they were killed. Where is Khan 
 Bahadur to-day ? He is out in the jungles and is 
 being hunted like a wild beast, and very likely will 
 be caught and hanged, as you all know he ought 
 to be. Well, now, in a few months' time mission- 
 aries have come here and are preaching in this 
 Bazar, where they never preached before! Well, 
 friends and neighbors, what does all this mean? 
 I will tell you what I think it means. It is this : 
 God is against these people who have been mak- 
 ing all this trouble, and trying to kill all the Chris- 
 tians in the country, and that this is to become a 
 Christian country." The people were utterly 
 amazed, so much so that they had not a word to 
 say in reply. Joseph then spoke, going over 
 much the same ground that I had gone over. He 
 
io6 Twenty-one: Yi:ars in India. 
 
 was a large man with a strong voice. He was a 
 powerful speaker in Hindustani, and the people 
 were greatly moved by his discourse. 
 
 He knew the natives well, the terrible scenes 
 of the mutiny were fresh in his mind, and he fully 
 entered into the significance of the time and place, 
 and spoke with tremendous earnestness and 
 power. His manner was very winning and pleas- 
 ing. I have seen men approach us full of wrath, 
 threatening our lives, when he would gently put 
 his hand upon them and speak to them so gently 
 and kindly, that they would quiet down and at 
 length become fast friends. 
 
 Joseph had been in the police during the mu- 
 tiny. The Mission he was connected with was 
 broken up, and he sought and obtained employ- 
 ment under Government. When the outbreak 
 was suppressed he applied to Dr. Butler, in Luck- 
 now, for a place in our Mission as a native min- 
 ister. He was gladly employed and sent to as- 
 sist me in Bareilly. He was a noble man, and 
 happily adapted to the place and time. I shall 
 never forget him. I loved him as a brother. He 
 watched over me with the greatest solicitude when 
 
TwENTY-ON^ Years in India. 107 
 
 speaking in the Bazars. He always took his stand 
 very close to me, and if any one approached, he 
 was sure to place himself between me and the 
 person coming toward me. I think he feared I 
 might be assassinated, and he would permit no 
 one to come to me without first passing him. On 
 this, our first attempt at preaching in the Bazar, 
 we were treated respectfully and kindly. 
 
 Several gathered about us for conversation, 
 after our preaching was concluded. Some of 
 them accompanied us some distance on our way 
 home, asking us many questions, which we were 
 glad to answer. 
 
 It may be proper for me now to consider very 
 briefly the subject of street preaching in India. 
 The people spend much of the time in the open 
 air. The temples are not for congregations to 
 assemble in for worship, as with us, but for the 
 gods and officiating priests. The people congre- 
 gate outside. If there is anything for them, it 
 is spoken to them out in the open air. So preach- 
 ing in this way is perfectly in accord with their 
 ideas and practices. 
 
io8 Twe:nty-one: Ydars in India. 
 
 It is the only way we could get access to the 
 people in those days. Much of what was said 
 was only imperfectly understood, but something 
 was lodged in the hearts of our hearers, and a 
 little leaven is sufficient to leaven the whole lump. 
 I am strongly in favor of street preaching in 
 India. I am just as much in favor of schools 
 for the young, and anything that will enable us 
 to reach the people with the Gospel. In our mis- 
 sion we have never had any special variance as to 
 methods, but have been ready to use any means 
 that promised the most good. Public preaching 
 in the Bazars needs to be conducted with discre- 
 tion and tact. Many persons are inclined to raise 
 questions to test the skill or knowledge of the 
 speaker; many are very fond of argument, but, 
 as a rule, it is not best to argue very much. If 
 3^ou engage in an argument they will almost in- 
 variably claim to have the best of it; it is better 
 to ask them to call upon you at your residence, 
 when you can talk with them to much better ad- 
 vantage. Questions that are evidently sincere 
 may be answered in a few words. A kind, gentk 
 
Twenty-one: Ykars in India. 109 
 
 manner helps one very much. Impatience, or 
 petulance, must not in any case be shown, how- 
 ever provoking they may be. There is not, per- 
 haps, as much Bazar preaching now as in former 
 years, but that it is a powerful means for the 
 spread of Gospel truth there can be no doubt. 
 We continued to preach at some point in the city 
 nearly every evening. At one time we were in- 
 vited to preach in front of the Kotwali, police 
 headquarters. We found a carpet spread and 
 chairs set out for us. After the service, the head 
 officer accompanied me some distance on the way 
 to our home ; he asked me if, in our preaching, we 
 could not avoid using the name of our Lord, as 
 the mere mention of His name was an offense to 
 the Mohammedans? He was himself a Moham- 
 medan, and a native of Constantinople. I replied, 
 "Suppose you were to suppress the name of the 
 magistrate when he gives you an order for the 
 people of the city, because the badmashes, crim- 
 inal classes, dislike him, what would he do?" "O !" 
 said he, "he would punish me, of course;" then 
 added, "I see how it is you can not do as I have 
 
no Twenty-one: Years in India. 
 
 asked you." He added : "I would like to help you." 
 I replied, "All we ask is, if the people should use 
 violence towards us, you should protect us just 
 as you would anybody else, so long as we are 
 within our rights. Otherwise, it would be better 
 not to notice us. If the police were to notice us 
 particularly, the people would think that the Gov- 
 ernment had sent us." 
 
 As we were preaching one evening in this 
 densely crowded place, the Chauk, my attention 
 was attracted to a young man standing near by 
 who seemed deeply interested in what was being 
 said. At the close of our preaching I sought him 
 out and spoke with him. I asked him if he had 
 ever heard the preaching before? He replied, 
 that he had not until on some former occasion 
 he heard us in some other part of the city. I 
 asked him what he thought of it all ; if he thought 
 it to be the truth, and was interested in it? He 
 replied that he greatly desired to know more 
 about what he had heard. I asked him to go 
 home with us, which he did, and we spent a long 
 time in conversation with him. We learned that 
 
Twe:nty-onk Years in India. hi 
 
 he belonged to a sect of Mohammedans called 
 "Purannamis," who claim to be seekers after 
 truth; that he had practiced a great variety of 
 austerities in hope of finding rest for his soul, but 
 all to no avail. 
 
 We very earnestly prayed that God would 
 give us this young man. He came to all our 
 services at the Mission House, and was often at 
 our preaching in the Bazars of the city. His in- 
 terest seemed constantly to deepen, and we were 
 more and more interested in him. We became 
 fully satisfied that he was a true seeker after the 
 salvation of his soul. In a few months, one Sun- 
 day, he very earnestly requested baptism, and 
 was very desirous to have it administered to him 
 on that very day. I was very anxious to have 
 him fully understand the importance of the step 
 he was about to take. I explained to him that 
 he must expect persecution, and be ready to suf- 
 fer the loss of all things, even life itself, if neces- 
 sary, for Christ's sake; I found that he seemed 
 to have considered it in all of its phases, and we 
 could not doubt his sincerity. So I told him to 
 
113 Tw^nTy-one: Yi:ars in India. 
 
 wait until the next Sunday, and if he were of the 
 same mind then, I would baptize him. It be- 
 came known very soon that he was to be baptized 
 on the next Sunday, and his Mohammedan 
 friends were immediately up in arms, and resorted 
 to every means in their power to prevent it. They 
 offered him money and lucrative service on the 
 one hand, and threatened ostracism and persecu- 
 tion on the other, but neither moved him from 
 his purpose publicly to acknowledge Christ as his 
 Lord and Master. The next Sunday evening, 
 July 24, 1859, I baptized this young man, whose 
 name was Zhur-ul-Haqq, who became a most use- 
 ful native minister, and our first native presiding 
 elder. I shall have occasion to speak more fully 
 of him as to this part of his life in the next 
 chapter. 
 
 I will now proceed to consider the question 
 recently raised^ Was Zhur-ul-Haqq the first con- 
 vert baptized in our Mission in India? I think, 
 beyond any doubt whatever, that he was, and my 
 reasons for this opinion are as follows: At the 
 time this question was raised in India, it was said 
 
REV. ZAHUR UL HAQQ. 
 First Native Convert, and Presiding Elder of the Methodist Church Mission.) 
 
Twenty-one Years in India. 113 
 
 that probably Maria, the young woman of whom 
 Dr. Butler speaks in his book, ''The Land of the 
 Veda," who was killed on the 31st of May, 1857, 
 by the sepoys in his compound, was the first bap- 
 tism. She did probably join our Church ; she was 
 a member of Dr. Butler's class, conducted by him 
 during the weeks of his residence in Bareilly, be- 
 tween January and the middle of May, when he 
 left for Naini Tal. But it does not seem proba- 
 ble that he baptized her ; had he done so, he would 
 have been likely to mention it. I have heard him 
 on different occasions speak of Zhur-ul-Haqq as 
 our first baptism. He made the same statement 
 again and again, in published articles in differ- 
 ent periodicals. I think there can be no doubt as 
 to his view of this subject. I have recently re- 
 ceived a letter from Mrs. Butler, who says that 
 Dr. Butler did not baptize Maria, and that he al- 
 ways said that Zhur-ul-Haqq was our first bap- 
 tism. Bishop Thoburn says in his book, "India 
 and Malaysia," page 266: "The word Mazhib 
 means religion, and the term Mazhabi is simply 
 
 an adjective form, the whole meaning that these 
 8 
 
i:i4 TwKNTY-ON^ Years in India. 
 
 people are Sikhs by religion, if not by race. They 
 themselves began coming to the missionaries at 
 Moradabad, and a few of them were baptized 
 early in 1859, or possibly even before the close 
 of 1858." 
 
 I was on the ground and know what trans- 
 pired more fully than any person now living. 
 These people first came to our notice in January 
 of 1859, so none of them could have been bap- 
 tized in 1858. I spent the most of January and 
 February of that year in Moradabad. A deputa- 
 tion came in to Mr. Parsons a week or so before 
 I arrived ; I know he did not baptize any of them, 
 for he was not ordained. Later, when he desired 
 to baptize some of them, Dr. Butler desired me 
 to go over to Moradabad from Bareilly and bap- 
 tize them, if I thought best, as he had told Mr. 
 Parsons that it would be contrary to the rules of 
 the Church for him, being unordained, to admin- 
 ister the ordinance. I personally know that none 
 of these people had been baptized prior to my 
 visit to Moradabad in May, when I went at Dr. 
 Butler's request. I thought it best to defer their 
 
Twenty-one Years in India. 115 
 
 baptism, and so returned to Bareilly without hav- 
 ing baptized any of them. 
 
 It is certain that none of the Sikhs were bap- 
 tized before July the 24th, of 1859, the date of 
 Zhur-ul-Haqq's baptism. I think, therefore, that 
 it is a fact, beyond all reasonable doubt, that his 
 was our first baptism. It may not be a matter of 
 any very great importance, but as an item of his- 
 tory it is desirable to know the facts in the case. 
 After Zhur-ul-Haqq's baptism, I baptized sev- 
 eral of these Sikhs, I should think as many as 
 fifteen or twenty. Among them were two young 
 men, brothers. Main Phul and Gurdial Sing, in 
 whom we became much interested from the first. 
 They came to us from their village, and asked us 
 to give them some work so that they could earn 
 enough to get their bread, and at the same time 
 learn to read. They were very simple-minded, 
 evidently sincere, honest, and much in earnest. 
 Main Phul remained with me for some time, and 
 at length became a teacher, and was sent to labor 
 among his own people, where he became very 
 useful. 
 
Ii6 Twe:nty-one; Yi:ars in India. 
 
 Gurdial went with Brother Parker, and was 
 very useful to him in Bijnour and Moradabad. 
 They are both dead, as, in fact, most of those 
 who became Christians in the first years of our 
 Mission, are. Soon after his baptism. Main Phul 
 asked permission to bring his wife from their vil- 
 lage, who was very wild and unmanageable at first, 
 but she improved rapidly under the care of the 
 ladies of the Mission, and in time she became use- 
 ful as a teacher among the women in the villages. 
 She died young, but in her dying moments she 
 remembered the ladies Vv^ho had so patiently and 
 lovingly taught her when so very ignorant, and 
 among her last words were messages of love to 
 them. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 First Arrivals from Home, and Opening Work 
 
 in Budaon. 
 
 Th^ baptism of Zhur-ul-Haqq naturally pro- 
 duced a deep impression and created a good deal 
 of excitement in the city, especially among Mo- 
 hammedans. We often received calls from them, 
 evidently largely from motives of curiosity, when 
 many questions, like the following, were asked : 
 "Do you require those who become Christians to 
 eat pork and drink wine?" Then they were quite 
 sure to ask the following: "You say Jesus Christ 
 is the Son of God; has God a wife?" 
 
 One Sunday a party of Mohammedans were 
 present in our service. Joseph Fieldbrave was 
 preaching, when an unusual influence came upon 
 us ; it was a kind of a thrill, almost like an elec- 
 tric shock, when one, with a cry, rushed from the 
 room, the others following in hot haste. They 
 
 117 
 
ii8 Twenty-one: Years in India 
 
 evidently feared that some influence might come 
 upon them that would make them Christians. 1 
 can not explain what it was that we felt at that 
 time. Only on a few occasions in my life have I 
 felt anything like it. I recall an occasion in our 
 Enghsh service in Naini Tal, when a thrill seemed 
 to pass through the congregation, and a singular 
 feeling of awe seemed to rest upon us all. I 
 can not account for this certainly unusual phe- 
 nomenon on natural principles. Aly feeling was 
 at the time that it was the Holy Spirit, and I see 
 no reason now to think otherwise. 
 
 The conversion of Zhur-ul-Haqq was a very 
 happy and inspiring event to us ; it seemed given 
 to us at that time to encourage us in our work, 
 and it seemed an assurance that we might expect 
 immediate fruit. Zhur-ul-Haqq was a very gen- 
 tle and unassuming young man, and not at all in- 
 clined to put himself forward. The natives of 
 India are, as a rule, good talkers, graceful in their 
 movements and gestures, and many have consid- 
 erable natural ability for public address. They 
 are, as a rule, fond of discussion, and never seem 
 
Twenty-one Years in India. 119 
 
 to tire of hair-splitting and speculation. I said to 
 some Pundits who were teaching in some of our 
 schools, "I am going to a certain Mela next 
 week." They replied, ''Let us go with you." I an- 
 swered, "I am going to preach, and if you go 
 with me perhaps you will assist me." They re- 
 plied, ''We will, if you order us to do so." I said, 
 "Certainly not, until you find Christ and love 
 Him." 
 
 Zhur-ul-Haqq seemed reticent and diffident, 
 and I did not like to ask him to speak in a public 
 place in Bareilly, as there was a good deal of ex- 
 citement in the city over his baptism; and yet I 
 was most anxious to have him make a beginning, 
 for I felt sure God designed that he should be a 
 preacher. I had occasion to visit Shahjehanpore, 
 between forty or fifty miles distant. I resolved 
 to take him with me and have him speak in some 
 of the villages on the way. I thought it would 
 be less trying for him to begin in this way than 
 in the city where he was well known. It so hap- 
 pened that the first place where it became con- 
 venient for us to preach was Tilhur, and upon ar- 
 
120 TwENTY-oNi: Years in India. 
 
 riving there I noticed it was Bazar day; that is, 
 a day in the week when all who buy and sell con- 
 gregate for trade. So there was a great crowd of 
 people assembled from the country round about. 
 To my astonishment, I learned that this was 
 Zhur-ul-Haqq's native place. Being well known 
 here, and his family being one of prominence, 
 the excitement over his having become a Christian 
 was greater here than in Bareilly even. He told 
 me that a few days before he had come to visit 
 his family, but they denounced him, and he barely 
 escaped with his life. I concluded it was not de- 
 signed that the cross should be lightened for him, 
 so after preaching myself, I encouraged him to 
 tell the people how he came to become a Christian. 
 He began by relating the story of his early life 
 among them; told them how much he had suf- 
 fered in hope of finding rest for his mind. Then 
 he told them of his hearing the preaching in the 
 Bazar in Bareilly, and how he had come to know 
 Christ as his Savior from his sins, and what peace 
 and comfort he now enjoyed. He invited them 
 to accept Christ, as He is the only one who can 
 
Twe:nty-on^ Ydars in India. 121 
 
 forgive sin and take it away from the heart and 
 give rest and peace. He assured them that if 
 they would beHeve in Him He would save them 
 also, and they would not need to go on pilgrim- 
 ages to Mecca, or to Kedarnath or Badrinath, but 
 He would come into their hearts and make them 
 good and happy. It was a beautiful testimony, 
 simply and appropriately told. I felt no more 
 fears about his future as a preacher of the Gospel 
 of Jesus Christ. For thirty-eight years he lived 
 a bright example of the power of grace to save, 
 and preached the Gospel of his blessed Lord 
 through all that long period with patience, tact, 
 and love. We have had none among our native 
 ministers more useful, loved, and honored by all 
 he came in contact with, not only among Chris- 
 tians, but among all classes of the native com- 
 munity. 
 
 Our first annual meeting was held in Septem- 
 ber of this year — that is, 1859 — in Lucknow. We 
 had made a beginning in Naini Tal, Moradabad, 
 Bareilly, and Lucknow. We were cheered by 
 the prospect of receiving large re-enforcements 
 
122 TwEJNTY-ONK YeJARS IN InDIA. 
 
 from home, and also by the fact that it would not 
 be with them as it had been with us ; they would 
 find homes in readiness and work prepared for 
 them. They need not wait, or be in any doubt as 
 to where their work might be. That annual 
 meeting was indeed a memorable one. The fear- 
 ful storm that had swept over the land, in the 
 terrible mutiny of the native army, had gone by ; 
 the morning of a new and brighter day had 
 dawned for India. Our great work was opening 
 full of promise. We were all young, full of hope 
 and inspiration, having only one aim, to preach 
 Christ and lead the people to Him. 
 
 The brethren who came at this time were Mr. 
 and Mrs. Downey, Mr. and Mrs. Waugh, Mr. and 
 Mrs. Parker, Mr. and Mrs. Judd, and Mr. Tho- 
 burn, now Bishop Thoburn. Mr. and Mrs. Baume 
 had arrived a short time before. This was a nota- 
 ble company. Bishop Thoburn, Mrs. Parker, and 
 Dr. Waugh are all that are still living. All the 
 others have passed to their reward on high. 
 Bishop Parker was the last to go, after a long 
 career of very great usefulness. He had about 
 
Twenty-one Years in India. 123 
 
 forty-three years of distinguished service in the 
 Mission. Mrs. Parker is still doing heroic work 
 in the field. Dr. Waugh retired after thirty-five 
 years of faithful and effective service. 
 
 Bishop Thoburn is still in the effective ranks, 
 and is well known through our whole Church, 
 and is everywhere honored and revered as a model 
 Missionary Bishop. One of that party, Brother 
 Downey, passed away in a few days after the 
 close of our session. T was returned to Bareilly, 
 and Mr. and Mrs. Downey were to have been our 
 colleagues. Brother Downey seemed to us, as 
 we met him in our sessions, a very charming 
 young man, and we anticipated great pleasure in 
 having him with us as our fellow-worker in the 
 great field we saw opening before us in Bareilly. 
 His death was a great sorrow to us. In a few 
 weeks, Mrs. Downey came to live with us and 
 to take the work planned for her husband, as far 
 as she could do it. 
 
 She was a very lovely character, highly ac- 
 complished, and wholly consecrated to the work. 
 Afterward she became the wife of Mr. Thoburn, 
 
1^4 Twi^NTY-ONi: Years in India. 
 
 then of Naini Tal, and died about a year or a 
 little more afterward. Her career in the mission 
 work she loved with all her heart was brief, but 
 she left an influence behind her that has been felt 
 by many hearts along down the years that have 
 intervened. We were just beginning our boys' 
 orphanage, and she was placed in charge of it. 
 
 Towards the end of December, Mrs. Hum- 
 phrey and myself took our camp equipage, which 
 consisted of two excellent tents, with utensils for 
 our housekeeping, and set out on an itinerating 
 tour with a view to visiting the city of Budaon, 
 the center of a large district of that name, lying 
 between Bareilly and the Ganges, to the south. 
 On our way we visited and preached in several 
 towns, where we now have large Christian com- 
 munities, but where we did not find any who had 
 heard the name of our Lord even at that time. 
 Crowds listened to our preaching and seemed in- 
 terested ; but O ! how dense the darkness that en- 
 shrouds their minds! It seems depressing, and 
 even appalling, at times, as we come in close con- 
 tact with the people. Arriving at Budaon, we 
 
Twe:nty-on£: Ye:ars in India. 125 
 
 were most warmly welcomed by a few native 
 Christians who had survived the mutiny, and the 
 English magistrate of the district. All earnestly 
 urged our opening work in Budaon at once. The 
 opportunity to purchase an unfinished house and 
 compound in an excellent location, on very favor- 
 able terms, seemed to me an indication that we 
 should not fail to improve our opportunity with- 
 out delay. The lieutenant-governor of the North- 
 west Provinces, with his camp, arrived in time 
 to spend Christmas there. I wrote to Dr. Butler, 
 explaining the situation to him, and urged him 
 to come over and spend a few days with me, 
 which he did very gladly. The Nawab of Ram- 
 pore came also with an immense retinue to visit 
 the Governor. For a few days matters were very 
 lively and gay. The Governor's camp was a very 
 canvas city. India is a great country for camp 
 life, and all officials from the Governor-General 
 down, if possible, spend a considerable part of 
 the cold season in camp. We have the best tents, 
 I imagine, in the world. The camp of the Gov- 
 erttor is a beautiful sight. The fine large tents 
 
126 TwiSNTY-ONK Years in India. 
 
 are pitched in order, with streets running through 
 between them. On Christmas day we had serv- 
 ice in the Governor's magnificent Durbar tent. 
 The Governor, and all his secretaries and offi- 
 cers, with all the residents of the station, were 
 present, making a congregation of forty or fifty 
 people. Dr. Butler preached an excellent sermon. 
 In the evening we dined with the Governor in his 
 spacious dining-tent. The Governor and several 
 of his suite made handsome donations to our Mis- 
 sion. The magistrate of Budaon gave us rupees 
 500 to assist in beginning our work here. It 
 was soon arranged that I should remove from 
 Bareilly and open the work here. This neces- 
 sitated the removal of Mr. Waugh to Bareilly to 
 supply my place, and Mr. Baume from Lucknow 
 to Shahjehanpore. 
 
 While in Budaon our tent was entered by rob- 
 bers in the night, and our trunks, with clothes, 
 money, and books, were taken. Our native min- 
 ister said, when I aroused the camp and called 
 for help to catch the thieves, I said they had car- 
 ried off my grammar and dictionary ; the loss of 
 
Twe:nty-one: Years in India. la/ 
 
 these was more than anything else in the Hne of 
 property just then. It costs a great effort to get 
 the language, and I had bent all my energies in 
 that direction. The grammar and dictionary 
 were constant companions in those days. 
 
 We returned to Bareilly and made over our 
 charge to Mr. Waugh, and were soon back in 
 Budaon, and very busy in laying the foundation 
 for our work. We had much to do to get prop- 
 erly housed, and the work in shape for the hot 
 season, which would soon begin. Our first work 
 was to render our residence habitable. It re- 
 quired plastering, and proper floors were to be 
 made; this occupied several weeks. 
 
 In the meantime we looked about with the 
 view to becoming acquainted with the district. 
 It seems to be densely populated; the soil is gen- 
 erally fertile, with good facilities for irrigation, 
 either by temporary wells or streams. It is re- 
 garded highly advantageous that all through this 
 section of country water is not very distant from 
 the surface; it can be reached in almost any 
 locality by digging from ten to twenty-five feet. 
 
128 TWE^NTY-ON^ Y^ARS IN InDIA. 
 
 There are two kinds of wells in use ; one is called 
 a "pucka well," which is substantially made, well 
 bricked up in the inside ; the other is known as a 
 "kutcha well," which is simply dug down to water 
 Avithout any bricking up, and the water is drawn 
 by hand, or by bullocks, to irrigate the field. It 
 is a very important matter to be able to get water 
 without much expense for this purpose; it makes 
 a good crop quite certain, even if the rains are 
 slight. These words, pucka and kutcha, are very 
 significant, and very largely used. Pucka is ap- 
 plied to anything substantial and permanent, or 
 to be relied upon; kutcha is applied to anything 
 not substantial. A pucka house is one well built ; 
 a pucka man is one that can be relied upon. A 
 kutcha house is one that is not substantially built ; 
 a kutcha man is one that you can not trust. The 
 district contains several cities of some size, of 
 which Budaon itself is the chief, and contains a 
 population of about thirty thousand, and is the 
 official center of the district, which contains nearly 
 a million of people. The European portion has 
 excellently paved roads, with some very comfort- 
 
TwKnTy-onk Yi:ars in India. 129 
 
 able residences, with large and attractive gardens 
 attached. The Government buildings are sub- 
 stantial and well adapted to the needs of the Gov- 
 ernment. We found eight or ten European fami- 
 lies living here. 
 
 I was expected to hold a service in English 
 for these on Sunday. The native population I 
 found to be divided between Hindus and Moham- 
 medans, in the ratio of about three of the former 
 to one of the latter. In the rural portions they 
 are mostly Hindus, divided into the usual castes. 
 Our first object was to complete our partially 
 built house, and get ready for the approaching 
 hot weather. In the meantime we began our 
 work. We regarded our first work to be preach- 
 ing the Gospel directly to the people in their own 
 language. Then secondary to this, we opened 
 schools for both sexes, as far as our means would 
 permit. Nothing could be more firmly settled in 
 my mind than that our first great business was 
 to go to the people everywhere, carrying to them 
 the Gospel message. We sought out convenient 
 places where we could gather the people and 
 9 
 
130 TwKnty-one: Ye:ars in India. 
 
 preach to them. A day when we had not held such 
 a service seemed to me in a measure lost. 
 
 Before the hot weather fully set in, I made a 
 tour to Futtigarh, about sixty miles to the south 
 of us. This was an old Mission station of the 
 Presbyterian Board, situated on the south side of 
 the Ganges. Four Mission families living there, 
 when the mutiny broke out, fell victims to Nana 
 Sahib and his followers, and were put to death 
 on the parade ground in Cawnpore, I met Messrs. 
 Scott and Fullerton, missionaries residing there, 
 and spent two or three delightful days with them 
 looking over their fine large school and their 
 Christian community. They took me to the spot 
 where the head master of the school was tied to 
 the muzzle of a cannon, and told to renounce 
 Christ and he would be spared; but he refused, 
 the torch was applied, and he was blown to atoms, 
 rather than deny his Lord and Savior. They had 
 a large industrial establishment, conducted by na- 
 tive Christians, devoted to the manufacture of a 
 very superior style of tents, that interested me 
 very much. I thought it quite certain that we 
 
Twi:nty-one: Y^ars in India. 131 
 
 would wish to inaugurate something of this kind 
 in the near future, with the purpose of furnishing 
 employment to native Christians. Such enter- 
 prises seem very necessary in India; they have 
 seemed so from the very beginning of our work, 
 and they seem so still, and perhaps never more so 
 than now ; but for some reason we in our Mission 
 have never seemed to prosper very well with en- 
 terprises of this nature. Perhaps they may be 
 more successfully conducted now than in the past. 
 There is much need of enterprises of this kind on 
 account of the greater number of children that 
 have come into our care on account of the famines 
 that have prevailed late years. I would say in 
 this connection that Mr. Blackstock, and others in 
 charge of our orphanage for boys at Shahjehan- 
 pore, have succeeded in enterprises of this kind to 
 a very good degree. Outside our orphanages, or 
 similar institutions, I do not think we can claim 
 very marked success. I learned many things from 
 my visit to these brethren in Futtigarh that was of 
 great use to me in after years. I also secured the 
 services of a very valuable native preacher, Enoch 
 
132 Twe:nTy-onij Ykars in India. 
 
 Burge, with whom I was intimately associated for 
 many years in one way and another. 
 
 Just before the hot season set in, I took a hasty 
 tour out into the western part of the district, vis- 
 iting some of the more important towns in that 
 direction. In one place, after preaching, among 
 many others who came to our tent for tracts, was 
 a very bright lad of fifteen or sixteen years of 
 age, who, I found, could read well, and knew 
 something of arithmetic. He was a very inter- 
 esting young man, and from the first I felt my 
 heart much drawn out toward him. In a few 
 days after my return to Budaon he came to see 
 me, and it so happened that we desired a teacher 
 for a low caste school among a class of people 
 who seemed much interested on the subject of 
 religion. It occurred to me that he might do for 
 this school, until we could get an older person. 
 I found he was quite as old as I was when I taught 
 my first school, so I placed him in charge of the 
 school. He soon became a Christian, and in time 
 a member of Conference. A few years ago we 
 used often to see his name appended to hymns of 
 
Twen'Ty-one Years in India. 133 
 
 his own composition in our vernacular papers, so 
 that he came to be known as the poet of the Mis- 
 sion. He is now a member of the Northwxst In- 
 dia Conference. The little school he taught 
 proved the beginning of a great work among the 
 people of that class for whom it was begun. As 
 the years have gone by several thousands of them 
 have become Christians. 
 
 During my residence here I built a neat, com- 
 modious chapel, which served tis well for both 
 Hindustani and English services on Sunday, and 
 for a boys' school during the week. 
 
 Our policy has been to have one superior 
 school at our mission center where we reside. 
 In this are taught the higher branches, both ver- 
 nacular and English. Then we have as many 
 primary schools out in the villages as seem to be 
 demanded and as we can support. As we have 
 native Christians out in the villages, it is abso- 
 lutely necessary to provide schools for them. 
 Here the foundation of their education is laid. 
 Those among the children that seem especially 
 bright and promising we arrange to take into our 
 
134 Tw^NTY-oN^ Yejars in India. 
 
 central school, so that they can pursue a more 
 advanced course of study. Then we have Reid 
 Christian College for Boys, and Miss Thoburn's 
 College for Girls. We have a splendid system 
 arranged for the education of the boys and girls 
 of the native Church. 
 
 What is now lacking is the endowment of 
 these higher institutions. Let them be put upon 
 a proper financial footing and a great future is 
 before them. 
 
 In November, Mr. Knowles and Joseph I^ield- 
 brave came over from Bareilly, and Enoch Burge 
 and myself joined them, and we went to the great 
 Mela on the Ganges, held at this season of the 
 year. 
 
 This festival is called ''The Puran Massee." 
 The people come together from a great distance, 
 and spend from ten days to a fortnight on the 
 banks of the river, bathing in its waters, listen- 
 ing to the Brahmins as they recite from the Shas- 
 ters, and watching whatever may be going on. 
 It is a time of recreation generally, and the women 
 who go to this gathering are much less particu- 
 
TwEN'TY-ONK Yi:aRS in InDIA. I35 
 
 lar to keep themselves secluded than they gen- 
 erally are. In many instances they bring the ashes 
 of members of the family who have died during 
 the year and cast them into the Ganges. In the 
 evening the river is covered over with little lights 
 set out on the water to light the spirits of those 
 who have gone from them on their journey to 
 their uncertain future. One of our missionaries 
 said to an old man on one occasion, ''What do you 
 put these lights out on the water for ?" He looked 
 off into the deepening twilight and replied, ''O 
 sir, it is very dark over there!" It is so, indeed, 
 to them. This is a good time for preaching ; they 
 have leisure, and usually are glad to listen. I 
 have found people in far-away places who, to my 
 surprise, said they had heard the story of Christ 
 at this Mela many hundred miles away. At the 
 close of an address one day, as I stepped down 
 from the place on which I was standing, a very 
 venerable man of high caste fell down at my feet 
 and clasped them and said, "I am so glad I have 
 lived to see this day and hear such gracious 
 words." I never saw him again, but he seemed 
 
136" Twe:nty-on:^ Ye:ars in India. 
 
 sincere and intensely earnest, walking in all the 
 light he had received. I believe there are such 
 men among the heathen, and when they hear the 
 Gospel they are almost sure to embrace it. I can 
 but think that this aged man was prepared by 
 the Lord for the reception of the Gospel message, 
 and I hope to meet him among the shining ones in 
 heaven some day. 
 
 The veneration of the people of India for the 
 Ganges is very great ; it is the most sacred, in their 
 estimation, of all the rivers of the country. The 
 Ramayan, the great epic of the Hindus, contains 
 this account of Gunga's birth : 
 
 Ram made request of a certain holy man : 
 
 " ' O Saint, I yearn 
 The three pathed Gunga's tale to learn.' 
 The saint, thus urged, recounted both 
 The birth of Gunga and her growth. 
 * The mighty hill by metals stored, 
 Himalaya, is the mountain's lord, — 
 The father of a lovely pair 
 Of daughters, fairest of the fair. 
 Their mother, offspring of the will 
 Of Meru, everlasting hill ; 
 Mena, Himalaya's darling, graced 
 With beauty of her dainty waist ; 
 Gunga was elder born ; then came 
 The fair one known by Uma's name ; 
 
Twenty-one: Years in India. 137 
 
 Then all the gods in heaven, in need 
 
 Of Gunga's help their vows to speed, 
 
 To great Himalaya came, and prayed 
 
 The mountain king to yield the maid. 
 
 He, not regardless of the weal 
 
 Of three worlds, with holy zeal 
 
 His daughter to the immortals gave, — 
 
 Gunga, whose waters cleanse and save, 
 
 Who roams at pleasure, fair and free. 
 
 Purging all sinners, to the sea. 
 
 The three pathed Gunga thus obtained, 
 
 The gods their heavenly homes regained.' " 
 
 Gunga Ji, the honorable Ganges, is greatly 
 loved and enthusiastically worshiped by the 
 Hindus. Aged and sick people are often taken 
 to its banks and left there to die. It is regarded 
 very meritorious to pass from earth with its 
 waters in view. 
 
 For weeks after this great gathering on the 
 Ganges, great numbers of men may be seen car- 
 rying on their shoulders two baskets, one attached 
 to each end of a pole, filled with bottles of water 
 from the river, which is carried hundreds of miles, 
 and is kept in the homes of the better class of 
 people and used on occasion of ceremony, sick- 
 ness, and death. It is regarded especially sacred. 
 
 The following lines express something of esti- 
 
138 Twi:nty-one: Yi:ARS in India. 
 
 mate the Hindus put upon the value of the water 
 of the holy Mata Gunga : 
 
 " The jewels of Puna are costly and rare, 
 The silks of Amritsar are matchlessly fair ; 
 But the waters of Gunga in beauty outvie 
 All the gems of the earth, all the stars of the sky. 
 
 Her fountains are pure as the snows of Kedar, 
 And her stream, as it flows, no foulness can mar ; 
 But where Kashi's high temples eternally shine, 
 Each wave is a god, and each drop is divine." 
 
 A Striking scene occurred near Hurdwar, 
 where the Ganges issues from the Himalayas, 
 April the 8th, 1854. The Government had for 
 several years been reopening old canals that had 
 been made by the Moguls, but had fallen into de- 
 cay. They were for irrigation only, and were 
 found to be so very useful that they built a very 
 fine, large one through the Doab"^ to receive water 
 from the Ganges; hoping thus to avert the dis- 
 astrous famines to which that region is subject. 
 
 The Ganges Canal was a vast work, but it was 
 at last completed and about to be formally opened. 
 The Hindus all around were greatly excited. 
 They could not believe that the mighty goddess — 
 
 =■'• I,and lying between the two rivers, the Ganges and Jumna. 
 
Twe:nTy-on^ Years in India. 139 
 
 the Mata Gunga — Mother Ganges — would allow 
 any portion of her sacred waters to flow in this 
 channel made by the hated Faringhis. The 
 priests assured the people that Gunga Ji would 
 utterly refuse to flow in this alien channel. She 
 would not obey the English! More than a half 
 million of people waited that day on the banks 
 of the sacred river so dear to their hearts, anx- 
 iously watching the issue. 
 
 The deep wide channel of the canal stretched 
 straight out into the distance. The great Ganges 
 rolled majestically on its way towards the south- 
 ern sea. A group of English officials and engi- 
 neers stood at a point of contact between the two. 
 No doubts or fears disturbed their minds in re- 
 gard to what the Ganges might do. They might 
 have feared an uproar among the people, but they 
 had to risk that. At a signal given, the obstruc- 
 tions were removed, and lo! part of the noble 
 stream flowed into the canal and rolled peace- 
 fully onward toward the horizon ! 
 
 Amazement and anguish transfixed the people 
 for a while! "Would the English indeed subdue 
 
140 Twe:nty-one: Yejars in India. 
 
 their gods as well as themselves ?" They strained 
 their eyes, then turned to tell the breathless crowd 
 to reproach the priests. They waited until it was 
 fully evident that Gunga Ji had really yielded to 
 the command of the English; then one terrible 
 despairing groan burst from their lips, and with 
 bowed heads and sinking hearts they slowly dis- 
 persed. 
 
 The year was drawing to a close. It had been 
 a memorable one to us. We had greatly enjoyed 
 our work, and there had been a very encouraging 
 advance made in every department of it. 
 
 A good foundation had been laid, and the 
 way was now clear and nothing remained but to 
 go forward and push the work at every point. 
 It had been a year of trial as well. God gave us a 
 little one, who was soon taken from us, and my 
 dear wife had been brought to the point of death, 
 and for days we watched with intense anxiety. 
 
 I can never forget the debt I owe to mission- 
 ary friends, especially to the first Mrs. Waugh, 
 who left her home in Bareilly and came, and was 
 as an angel from heaven to us through all that 
 time of great trial. 
 
CHAPTER VIIL 
 
 Return to Bareilly and Removal to Shahjehan- 
 
 pore. 
 
 Our second Annual Meeting was held in the 
 early part of January, 1861. During the latter 
 part of i860, and up to the harvest in September 
 and October, 1861, we suffered much through a 
 considerable part of the Northwest from famine. 
 We had a large addition to the numbers in our 
 orphanages on account of it. A large sum of 
 money was sent out from England to relieve the 
 sufferings at the time. This was received and 
 disbursed by the Government, and a portion of it 
 was invested for the support of orphan children. 
 Eor many years we drew on this fund a fixed 
 sum for each child. At our Annual Meeting I 
 was returned to Bareilly, and Mr. Knowles was 
 sent to Budaon in my place. During the year 
 Dr. Butler had moved from Lucknow to Bareilly. 
 
 141 
 
142 Twe:nty-oni: Y:eARS in India. 
 
 Cashmere Kotee was found to be very unsuitable 
 for the prosecution of our work. It was isolated, 
 far from the city and cantonments, and incon- 
 venient for our work in many ways. I had urged 
 a reconsideration of the question of location be- 
 fore leaving Bareilly. After locating there, I very 
 soon became convinced that it was not the place 
 that we needed for our work; but it seemed the 
 best we could do at the time. Dr. Butler con- 
 curred with me, and determined to change our 
 location as soon as a suitable place could be ob- 
 tained. It was not long before an opportunity 
 offered to get a site lying between cantonments 
 on one side, and the city on the other. The posi- 
 tion was excellent, being convenient for work both 
 in the English part of the station and among the 
 natives of the city. This place was immediately 
 secured and building was begun. In course of 
 the year, while I was in Budaon, two commodious 
 Mission houses were completed, and Cashmere 
 Kotee had been abandoned. This was every way 
 a wise move. We have had all these years a fine 
 location, with additions which have since been 
 
Twknty-one: Ykars in India. 143 
 
 made, and the fine property given for the hospital 
 under the charge of the Woman's Society, by the 
 Nawab of Rampore adjoining, makes our Mis- 
 sion premises very complete and valuable. One 
 of the houses just completed was occupied by Dr. 
 Butler, the other by Mr. Waugh. My first-work 
 after arriving in Bareilly was to superintend the 
 construction of a building for the boys' orphan- 
 age, and then a residence for myself, which I saw 
 completed ready for occupancy; but it was not 
 my fortune to occupy it, as will be explained far- 
 ther on. At this time the girls' orphanage was in 
 Lucknow imder the charge of Mrs. Pierce. 
 About two years later, after the death of Mrs. 
 Pierce, it was removed to Bareilly, and the boys 
 were removed to Shahjehanpore, where they have 
 remained up to the present time. These institu- 
 tions have served a highly useful purpose in our 
 work. In addition to their humane character in 
 rescuing suffering and starving children, they 
 have furnished us many valuable helpers, both 
 male and female. Some of our most able minis- 
 ters in our Conference at the present time were 
 
144 Twenty-one Years in India. 
 
 reared in our orphanage. Dr. Butler made large 
 plans for these orphanages and expected large 
 things from them. Perhaps not all has been real- 
 ized that he hoped for; but enough has been 
 gained fully to justify the wisdom of his plans. 
 They have served a grand purpose, and bid fair to 
 continue to do so for a long time to come. 
 
 Our publishing interests began to take shape 
 about this time, and a beginning was made. A 
 room was built in connection with the orphanage 
 building for the press, and work was begun under 
 the direction of Rev. J. W. Waugh, who was a 
 practical printer. It was in the plan to teach the 
 older boys printing, and so make them useful, and 
 give them a good trade at the same time. This 
 room built for the press came down in the rains, 
 which were especially heavy that year, and the 
 place was flooded as I have never seen it since. 
 Considerable damage was done to type and mate- 
 rial collected by Mr. Waugh. From this humble 
 beginning has grown our large publishing estab- 
 lishments in Lucknow and Calcutta, which have 
 done a great work in supplying our mission with 
 
TwijnTy-one: Years in India. 145 
 
 its literature. We could not then, in our most 
 sanguine moments, have imagined what we now 
 see in this, as in nearly every other department 
 of our great work. We soon began preaching on 
 regular days, in all the most prominent points in 
 the city. We arranged a regular weekly plan for 
 nearly every day in the week except Sunday, in 
 which work was laid out for every preacher and 
 helper to do. We arranged a regular plan for 
 visiting the larger villages about the city within 
 a radius of five or six miles. This work was car- 
 ried on with regularity and spirit, and it evidently 
 made a very strong impression upon the people. 
 Two years before I had seen the city powerfully 
 moved on the occasion of the baptism of Zhur-ul- 
 Haqq. This year I was permitted to see the peo- 
 ple more generally and more deeply moved on the 
 occasion of the baptism of a young Hindu gen- 
 tleman belonging to a high caste family of im- 
 portance in the city. When preaching on one oc- 
 casion in one of the large Bazars of the city, I 
 noticed several well-dressed young men among 
 our hearers, standing on the outskirts of the 
 
 10 
 
146 Twi:NTY-ONE: Y^ARS IN InDIA. 
 
 crowd listening, when they could not have been 
 induced to mix with them and come near to us. 
 I was especially impressed witli one of their num- 
 ber. I thought he was moved, and I was so deeply 
 impressed that I made a great effort to get to 
 him after we had finished our speaking. I fol- 
 lowed him for a considerable distance in the 
 crowded Bazar, often losing sight of him, and 
 then catching a glimpse of him again. I finally 
 came up with him and spoke to him. I think he 
 was much surprised to be pursued in that way by 
 me. I was not a little surprised myself that I 
 should have done so, when I came to think about 
 it. I merely acted on an impression without stop- 
 ping to think. I have no doubt that the Spirit of 
 God led me, as I think the outcome in this case 
 shows. I asked him how what he had heard im- 
 pressed him. He replied that he was much in- 
 terested, and greatly desired to hear more. I in- 
 vited him to come to our residence and we would 
 be glad to explain these things to him more fully. 
 He assured me that he would gladly come, which 
 
TwKNTY-ONi: YKARS in InDIA. 147 
 
 he did in the course of a few days. These visits 
 were continued for two or three months, during 
 which time he attended our Hindustani services 
 as steadily as he could. Then he requested me to 
 baptize him. I deferred it for a time, as I fore- 
 saw that he would have to meet very bitter per- 
 secution. He said his wife desired to be baptized 
 with him, and it was arranged that on a certain 
 day they should come to the Mission for that pur- 
 pose. On the day appointed he arrived, though 
 much past the hour agreed upon, but he was alone, 
 and with clothes soiled and torn, and bleeding 
 from blows that had been inflicted upon him by 
 members of his wife's family. They had taken 
 his wife from him, carried her back to their home 
 in the city; in the struggle he succeeded in slip- 
 ping out of their hands and fled to us for protec- 
 tion. The next day. Rajah Baijnath, a Hindu 
 gentleman, called, who was greatly honored by 
 the English for his stanch loyalty in the time of 
 the mutiny, and for the aid he had given to Eng- 
 lish gentlemen and ladies in those dark days, en- 
 
148 Twe:nty-oni: Y^ars in India. 
 
 abling them to escape. He was a wealthy banker ; 
 Government had conferred the title Rajah, which 
 was equivalent to that of prince, upon him for his 
 great devotion to Europeans and to the Govern- 
 ment. He asked that he might be permitted to 
 take this young man home with him for one night. 
 He assured me that he would be responsible for 
 his safety, but assured me that they would do all 
 they could to turn him from his insane purpose 
 to become a Christian. The whole city was up in 
 arms. Before, it was a Mohammedan that proposed 
 to become a Christian; now it was a Brahmin; 
 and both Hindus and Mohammedans were in- 
 tensely excited. This young man consented to go 
 to the city for the night; he well knew that it 
 would be a night of fierce trial to him. He re- 
 quested that we would all pray for him. There 
 was not much sleep among the native Christians 
 that were with us that night. The next day he 
 was returned to us victorious. He said they ar- 
 gued and threatened by turns, and offered him 
 large sums of money, and exhausted every device 
 
Tw^NTY-ON^ YEJARS IN InDIA. I49 
 
 to lead him to abandon his purpose to become a 
 Christian, but to no avail. Their chagrin was 
 very great and their rage knew no bounds. There 
 were many men armed with lathis — heavy sticks 
 with lead run about the end, making them a very 
 dangerous weapon — on the roads about our 
 premises, evidently ready for mischief, but the 
 Lord restrained them from acts of violence. The 
 next evening he was baptized by Dr. Butler, who 
 happened to be with us just at that time, and by 
 my request officiated. A day or two afterward, 
 Ambica Churn's father-in-law called early in the 
 morning to see him. Not dreaming of violence, 
 I left them for a few moments, when I heard a 
 heavy blow and a fall. I rushed out, when Am- 
 bica was rising from the floor, and blood was 
 flowing from his head, while his father-in-law was 
 fleeing like a madman from the compound. I 
 noticed that he had a short lathi in his hands, 
 which he was using as a walking stick, and I 
 thought nothing of it. Natives often carry them 
 in that way. I was told that after some angry 
 
150 Tw^NTY-ON^ Y^ARS IN InDIA. 
 
 words he arose, as if to leave, when he turned 
 and dealt Ambica a murderous blow, saying as he 
 did so, "I am ready to be hanged for you," show- 
 ing that murder was in his heart, but fortunately 
 he was not very seriously hurt. The man being 
 a somewhat prominent man in the place, as he 
 was our postmaster, I thought it should not be 
 allowed to pass unnoticed, so I made complaint 
 in one of our courts, and he was put under bonds 
 to keep the peace, and fined the sum of rupees 50, 
 which was a small punishment for the crime com- 
 mitted; but perhaps it was sufficient to serve the 
 purpose of a deterrent^ and that was all we de- 
 sired. 
 
 In the early history of our work we had two 
 converts from the better classes — one a Moham- 
 medan, the other a high caste Hindu — and these 
 were the direct fruit of preaching in the Bazars 
 to the people. It used to be said in those days 
 that we never could reach any but the most ig- 
 norant and the lowest among the people by our 
 preaching. These cases seemed to me an assur- 
 ance that we might hope to reach the highest, as 
 
TwKnty-one: Years in India. 151 
 
 well as the lowest, in this way. It seemed an 
 expression of God's approval of our methods, 
 
 which were: 
 
 1. The proclamation of the Gospel message 
 in its simplicity and power directly to the people 
 in their own language. 
 
 2. We assumed that it was for all people, rich 
 and poor, high or low, without aistinction. 
 
 3. We expected results. 
 
 These are essential principles, and lie at the 
 foundation of all true success in the evangeliza- 
 tion of the world. This, I believe, to be funda- 
 mental in the Gospel economy. Of course there 
 are many ways of preaching, many things that 
 must be done, that are tributary to the 
 one great end; but the tendency is for 
 these to multiply and become absorbing. 
 Care must be exercised to prevent this. 
 There may be times when special attention must 
 be given to special classes ; but still we must not 
 lose sight of the fact that our mission is to all, 
 we are to preach the Gospel to every creature. 
 
152 Twe:nty-oni: Ye:ars in India. 
 
 Our work grew with great rapidity on every 
 hand, and we were fully absorbed in it. Just at 
 this time circumstances arose that seemed to make 
 it necessary for me to remove from Bareilly to 
 Shahjehanpore. At this early stage of our his- 
 tory, when opening work in many different places, 
 and laying the foundation of many different in- 
 stitutions and departments of work, frequent 
 changes were unavoidable. This experience fell 
 to my lot in these early years of the Mission, as I 
 was one of the first in the field and could better 
 undertake new work in a new field than one more 
 recently out from home could. This was to be 
 regretted, as with a missionary everything de- 
 pends upon personal influence, and that can not 
 be acquired without time. We have never ob- 
 served the time limit in India. I was soon settled 
 in Shahjehanpore, where I found a great field 
 and many open doors of usefulness. I found it 
 necessary to make somic changes in the boys' 
 school which had been opened on the Mission 
 premises, and to enlarge its scope. I succeeded in 
 
TwEnTy-onk Ykars in India. 153 
 
 obtaining a commodious building in the Bazar, 
 and secured some capable teachers, and soon our 
 attendance rose from about twenty to over one 
 hundred. We carried on Bazar preaching regu- 
 larly, as we had done in other places. In the 
 course of the year several persons were baptized, 
 and the work grew rapidly upon our hands. I 
 made several tours of some distance into the coun- 
 try. In course of one of them I visited Brother 
 and Sister Parker, while engaged in their at- 
 tempt to colonize the Sikhs on land in the Tari in 
 Oudh. A Government official, who had had ex- 
 perience in such attempts, told me that our effort 
 would be disastrous, as it proved to be. Most of 
 the people sent there died of fever. Brother and 
 Sister Parker narrowly escaped with their lives. 
 The only way the Tari can be settled is to crowd 
 the people living on its borders farther on, little 
 by little. People taken from a distance and 
 placed in that region will almost certainly perish 
 from fever during the rainy season. The malaria 
 of that region is deadly to people not accustomed 
 
154 Twe:nty-on^ Yi:ars in India. 
 
 to it. While on this tour, I took in Seetapore, 
 and passed a few days with Brother and Sister 
 Gracey, preaching- in a Mela held there at that 
 time. While here I met a native doctor who had 
 served in the native army under Government, but 
 had now retired on his pension. I learned that 
 he lived some distance away in the interior. He 
 was a man of some importance and means, and 
 seemed to be exerting a good influence on the 
 people about him. I promised to visit him, which 
 I did some months afterward. I thought his a 
 very interesting case, and made an itinerating 
 tour into the part of the country where he lived 
 and spent a Sunday with him, and baptized sev- 
 eral members of his family, among them his 
 mother, a very aged woman. While here in Shah- 
 jehanpore, I saw a man who had been carried 
 away when a child by wolves and reared by them. 
 T had heard of cases of this kind, but was very 
 much in doubt about their validity. This person 
 was found by a hunting party a short time before 
 the mutiny. They came upon a pack of wolves. 
 
TwEnTy-on^ Years in India. 155 
 
 and one of them proved to be this man. He must 
 have been eighteen years of age at the time. He 
 was twenty or more when I saw him. The gen- 
 tleman of whom we rented our school building 
 gave him an outbuilding in the compound in 
 which he lived. He was scarcely more than an 
 animal. He could not talk, and lived like an ani- 
 mal; he knew enough to hold out his hand for 
 bakshish, as even monkeys are often trained to 
 do in India. I saw him often, and can vouch for 
 the case as being true. I was greatly delighted 
 to welcome Rev. D. W. Thomas and Mrs. 
 Thomas from home this year. I had known both 
 of them at home before their marriage. They 
 were from the same section of country that I was, 
 and it was indeed a great delight to meet them 
 and to have them with me in Shahjehanpore. My 
 wife was obliged to spend that season in the 
 mountains, on account of illness, so that it was 
 special pleasure to have somebody in the house 
 with me. They were very much occupied in the 
 study of the language, and were able to do but 
 
156 Twi^NTY-ONie Ye:ars in India. 
 
 little in work at that time, and in September they 
 were removed to Bareilly to assist Dr. Butler 
 with his accounts. A little later, when we 
 became better organized, Brother Thomas was 
 made treasurer of the Mission, in which capacity 
 he served the Mission very efficiently for many 
 years. I must not fail to mention a special kind 
 of work that I prosecuted in this place among 
 the higher class people. I took special pains to 
 make the acquaintance of the best families in the 
 city, calling upon them in times of affliction. I 
 often had opportunity to explain our belief to 
 them at a time, and under circumstances, when 
 the truth came home to them with unusual force. 
 I think much might be done in reaching the 
 higher classes, were they properly approached. I 
 do not for one moment think we should neglect 
 the lower classes for the higher, nor do I think 
 we should pass by the higher for the lower; we 
 are to go to all without distinction. All need the 
 Gospel, as all are under condemnation, and the 
 proclamation of pardon includes all. The year 
 
Twenty-one: Years in India. 157 
 
 1862 is memorable in the history of our 
 Mission. Three noble and devoted mission- 
 ary ladies passed on to heaven that year; 
 Mrs. Jackson died in Budaon about the 
 middle of September, Mrs. Thoburn died in 
 Naini Tal in October, and Mrs. Pierce in Luck- 
 now in November. Circumstances now arose 
 when it was thought necessary for us to remove 
 to Moradabad ; this was done with many regrets. 
 I found my attachment for the work in Shahje- 
 hanpore had become very strong, especially for 
 the school. Teachers and pupils manifested the 
 deepest feeling over my leaving. It had cost me 
 much anxious labor to get the school into the state 
 it was then in, and I hoped for much from it. 
 
 I rose soon after midnight, on the day we 
 were to leave, hoping to have two or three hours 
 of quiet to do some work that remained to be 
 done, so that all might be in proper shape for my 
 successor. Soon I heard a soft tap at my door, 
 which proved to be one of the teachers of the 
 school, who had come to me to talk with me about 
 
158 Twe:nty-one: Yi:ars in India. 
 
 becoming a Christian. He seemed to be much 
 moved, but evidently shrank from the cross he 
 saw it involved. I gave such advice as I thought 
 the case demanded, and prayed with him. I am 
 not sure that I have ever seen him since. I have 
 the greatest sympathy for young men situated as 
 he was, convinced of the falsity of their own sys- 
 tems, and yet so situated that to forsake them 
 involves the loss of everything in this world, as 
 it must seem to them. Great wisdom is needed to 
 deal with such cases. Sometimes those who seem 
 to feel the cross the heaviest will be very brave 
 and patient in bearing it in the end. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Removal to Moradabad, and Furlough Home. 
 
 Mr. Judd and Mr. Brown had been at Morad- 
 abad; Mr. Judd was now sent to Lucknow, and 
 Mr. Brown to relieve me at Shahjehanpore. Mr. 
 Jackson was to have been associated with me at 
 Moradabad, but he only remained a short time, 
 as he found it necessary to return home with his 
 motherless child. Then Mr. and Mrs. Parker 
 came to fill the vacant place, but they only re- 
 mained during the cold weather, and were con- 
 stantly suffering from the fever they had con- 
 tracted in the Tarai in Oudh. As soon as the hot 
 season came on they were obliged to go to the 
 mountains, and we were again left alone. In a 
 few weeks Mr. and Mrs. Mansell came to us in 
 their place, and remained during the year. They 
 had but recently arrived in the country, and were 
 chiefly occupied in the study of the language. I 
 
 159 
 
i6o Twi:ni'y-on^ Years in India. 
 
 found them very congenial associates, and we had 
 a dehghtful time together, and the foundation was 
 laid for a lifelong friendship. Dr. Mansell is 
 still in the work, and has done splendid service in 
 the cause of Christ in India in many departments 
 of the service. 
 
 Here, too, I found a boys' school conducted 
 on the Mission premises. It was well organized 
 for that time, with an attendance pf about thirty. 
 Some of the boys in attendance were from the 
 best families in the city. I saw at once that the 
 school was one of great promise; that it would 
 evidently prove a power for good if put on a 
 proper basis. I also felt sure it might be greatly 
 improved by a moderate increase of the expendi- 
 ture, and that the additional funds needed might 
 probably be secured from our English friends in 
 the station. I laid the matter before a few of our 
 residents, and they at once responded with all 
 that was needed to make the advance. I then 
 proceeded to remove the school to the city. It 
 was reorganized, the staff of teachers strength- 
 ened and improved, and, as a result, we soon had 
 
TWEJNTY-ONK YHARS IN InDIA. i6i 
 
 a large increase in our attendance and in general 
 interest in the school by the better class of people 
 in the city. In a short time Brother Mansell was 
 able to take charge of the school and relieve me 
 of the care and responsibility of it. This was a 
 great relief to me with all the other work upon 
 my hands at that time. In our first class were 
 about twenty bright, active 3^oung men from good 
 families in the city, who were so far advanced in 
 the study of the English language that they could 
 understand it and speak it somewhat, so that 
 Brother Mansell could teach them to advantage, 
 and at the same time exercise a general superin- 
 tendence over the whole school. This has long 
 been one of our very best schools. In my time 
 there was a site in a very central position that I 
 longed to obtain, where we might erect a building 
 which would serve both for the school and re- 
 ligious services, but it was not available at that 
 time. Years after. Brother Parker succeeded in 
 obtaining it, and such a building as I had dreamed 
 of, was built, and it has served a grand purpose 
 for many years. This Moradabad high school has 
 u 
 
i62 Twenty-one: Years in India. 
 
 been exceedingly useful in affording more ad- 
 vanced education to our boys out in the country, 
 who have given promise of accomplishing some- 
 thing in life. We have had from the beginning 
 more native Christians scattered about over the 
 country in the Moradabad district than in any 
 other part of the country. Bishop Parker did 
 much for this school for many years, raising its 
 grade to that of a high school, educating up to 
 what is known as "the entrance course," which is 
 equivalent to entrance to college in this country. 
 
 It is now proposed to make it a memorial of 
 Bishop Parker, which is exceedingly appropriate, 
 and it is much to be hoped that a sufficient sum 
 may be secured to raise it above financial press- 
 ure for a long time to come. 
 
 About the middle of December, after my re- 
 moval to Moradabad, Dr. Butler came to us, on 
 his way to the Pan jab to attend a great missionary 
 gathering in Lahore, which was designed to take 
 in all the missionaries in Upper India. It was to 
 begin on Christmas-day and continue through the 
 week and close on New-Year's Day. He was very 
 
TwKNTY-ONi: Ye:aRS in InDIA. 163 
 
 anxious to have me accompany him ; but I feh it 
 would be impossible for me to meet the expenses 
 of so long a journey, but my wife and Dr. Butler 
 arranged it that I was to go. For a very small 
 sum he agreed to meet all the expense of my go- 
 ing. My wife insisted on paying this from a 
 small sum that she had succeeded in laying by. 
 She felt that it was an opportunity of a lifetime. 
 I felt so, too, but frequent removals and sickness 
 had reduced our finances to that extent that I felt 
 it would not be prudent for me to do so. But at 
 the importunity of both Dr. Butler and my wife 
 I had to yield, and I have never felt to regret it. 
 It was the great occasion of my life. Our journey 
 took us by Meerut, Delhi, Amballa, Lodiana, 
 Kapurthala, Julinder, and Amritsir, to Lahore. 
 Many of the missionaries were out in the district, 
 or on their way to the Conference to be held in 
 Lahore, but we called at all the places named and 
 saw a good deal of their work. We traveled by 
 Gharee Dak ; it was a long journey of five or six 
 hundred miles, and we had several nights of 
 travel. Mr. Hauser joined us in Meerut, and as 
 
164 TwKNTY-ONi: Y^ARS IN InDIA. 
 
 may be imagined, by those familiar with jour- 
 neying in India in those days, before we had rail- 
 ways, it was not a very easy thing for three of us 
 to manage to pass the night in a Dak Gharee to- 
 gether, but we managed it in some way, and suc- 
 ceeded in getting all the enjoyment out of it we 
 could. Dr. Butler was one of the very best of 
 traveling companions. He was splendid at rough- 
 ing it, versatile in expedients to make matters go 
 on smoothly, and as he assumed all the responsi- 
 bility of providing for me, I had a royal time. I 
 shall never forget that journey. We had been 
 together a good deal in arranging and opening our 
 work, with all the anxiety and care it involved; 
 now we were for the time freed from all that, 
 and we felt drawn together as perhaps never be- 
 fore. I shall never forget some of our conversa- 
 tions during those long moonlight nights on that 
 journey. I managed to get him to tell me much 
 more of his earlv life than I had known before. 
 I have often wished that some one who wields a 
 ready pen might write and give us the story of 
 his noble and useful life. I am glad to say that 
 
TwKNTY-ONi: Years in India. 165 
 
 his gifted daughter, Miss Clementine Butler, who 
 was born in India, has performed this service 
 very efficiently and lovingly. The book will, I 
 have no doubt, have a large sale and be widely 
 circulated. 
 
 As I look back over the past, I am more and 
 more impressed by the importance and magnitude 
 of the work he did in laying the foundation of 
 our Mission in India. Mistakes were made, no 
 doubt; it was hardly possible that it should be 
 otherwise ; the marvel is that they were not more 
 numerous than they actually were. His plans 
 were large and generally well conceived, and 
 through all the intervening years we have been 
 reaping the benefit of them. I knew him as inti- 
 mately as any one in the Mission, and I think 
 there can be no question but that Dr. Butler was 
 a remarkable man. He had unbounded energy 
 and courage; but few men would have accom- 
 plished what he did in India under the circum- 
 stances that then existed. His memory will be 
 cherished in India by many for a long time to 
 come. He was a very able preacher. He preached 
 
i66 Tw^nTy-onk Yi:ars in India. 
 
 a very memorable sermon on the Sunday inter- 
 vening in course of the Conference. We were 
 the guests of the Presbyterian missionaries dur- 
 ing the session of the Conference. This Confer- 
 ence was distinguished from all others I have at- 
 tended in India, by the number of high officials 
 who attended it^ and took a prominent part in 
 its proceedings. Among these were Sir Herbert 
 Edwards, Sir Donald McLeod, Mr. Forsyth, 
 Colonel Lake, Major McMahon, Mr. Cust, the 
 Rajah of Kapurthala, and many others, whose 
 names I can not at this distance of time recall. The 
 discussions were deeply interesting, having to do 
 with themes and subjects that were important and 
 very practical then. It was a social time of de- 
 lightful memory. We were on one occasion en- 
 tertained by Sir Donald McLeod at breakfast, on 
 another at Mr. Forsyth's, and on another occa- 
 sion by the Rajah of Kapurthala. He was a very 
 interesting man, and was in high favor with Gov- 
 ernment, as he had done much to aid the English 
 in the mutiny. He furnished a contingent to co- 
 operate with the army before Delhi. We were 
 
Twknty-one: Ykars in India. 167 
 
 all much interested in him, from the fact that at 
 this time he seemed about to embrace Christian- 
 ity. He had married a Christian wife; he had 
 invited a missionary to live at his capital. Rev. 
 Mr. Woodside lived at Kapurthala at that time, 
 and we enjoyed a most delightful visit to him 
 on our way up country. The Rajah had made a 
 generous subscription to our Mission, on Mr. 
 Woodside's recommendation ; but some reverses 
 came to him so far as his religious life was con- 
 cerned. I think he never embraced Christianity 
 fully, and the missionary was, after a time, re- 
 moved. The most delightful hours of all were 
 those we spent in the home of Mr. Foreman, 
 where all the missionary body had a common 
 table, and, when not invited out, spent the eve- 
 ning in prayer and praise. The sessions of the 
 Conference were confined to the daytime. We 
 occupied tents in the Mission compound. It was 
 one of the most delightful occasions I have known, 
 at home or abroad. \Ye reached home about the 
 loth of January, having had a truly royal time. 
 During the season we were at Moradabad, I 
 
i68 I^w^nTy-one: Ye:ars in India. 
 
 made the acquaintance of Pundit Nand Kishore 
 who was a Government officer in charge of one 
 of the Tahsils, or divisions, of the district under 
 the EngHsh magistrate and collector. He lived 
 at Sambhal, about twenty miles from Moradabad, 
 and desired to open a school at his own expense, 
 and desired me to visit him and render him some 
 assistance in the organization of his enterprise. 
 I did so, and found him a very interesting man 
 indeed. He was very intelligent, and much in- 
 terested in religious subjects. We became very 
 warm friends and years afterward we were 
 brought into very close contact by an enterprise 
 of common interest to us both, of which I shall 
 speak in a future chapter. Sambhal was a very 
 interesting place. It was a very old city, and the 
 people all over that part of India had a tradition 
 that the tenth incarnation of Vishnu would ap- 
 pear in Sambhal. They claim that there have 
 already been nine incarnations of Vishnu, and 
 they have all been unholy; but this last, which is 
 to come, will be holy, and will bring in a better 
 age for the world. This is no doubt a vague tra- 
 dition that has come to them in some way in re- 
 
Twe:nty-one) Ye;ars in India. 169 
 
 gard to our Savior. We used to hear more about 
 this years ago than we do now. We used to tell 
 them that the holy incarnation has already come, 
 and that we had come to tell them about it. It 
 seemed to prepare them to receive the account of 
 our Lord's advent with favor. We occasionally 
 meet with ideas and conceptions, bursting out 
 from a mass of superstitions, that seem almost 
 startlingly familiar, and we wonder where they 
 came from. I have been told that in the south of 
 India are two parties of Brahmins, holding di- 
 verse theories in regard to the relation existing 
 between God and ourselves. One party holds that 
 God carries us as a cat carries her young, entirely 
 independent of any action of our own. From 
 this springs the doctrine of "kismat," or fate, 
 which is generally held by the Hindus. Indeed, 
 the people of India, both Hindus and Mohamme- 
 dans, are, as a rule, fatalists. They say a man's 
 *'kismat," is written on his forehead, and can not 
 be changed. When calamity comes they are likely 
 to meet it stoically, and say, ''kismat ki bat," it 
 is fate. 
 
IJO l^WENTY-ON^ Ye:ARS IN InDIA. 
 
 The other party holds to what is called the 
 monkey theory. Our relation to God, they say, 
 is like that existing between a monkey and her 
 young. The mother carries the young; if they 
 cling to her, they must grasp the mother and hold 
 on. So, they say, God upholds and keeps us by our 
 clinging to Him, not by His clinging to us, as 
 the other party holds. In certain sections in the 
 South, it is said, men holding these views are 
 designated as belonging to the cat party, or to the 
 monkey party. Certainly these theories seem 
 very similar to those we are familiar with. 
 
 I had much to do in visiting and caring for 
 our native Christians at different points out in 
 the district. There were little groups of from two 
 to half a dozen families in villages, scattered 
 about over the country miles apart. It was not an 
 easy thing to reach them over the village roads, 
 which were often far from being good, and scat- 
 tered as they were ; but it was very important that 
 they should be instructed and cared for. I bap- 
 tized a good number of families this year, mostly 
 among the Sikhs, of whom we have spoken in a 
 
Twe:nty-one: Years in India. 171 
 
 previous chapter. That year wolves were very- 
 numerous and troublesome. Immediately after 
 the mutiny the people were disarmed, and wild 
 beasts became a source of much danger in some 
 localities. I was sleeping in an open shed one 
 night, on a cot the people had provided for me, 
 around me were a dozen or more sleeping on the 
 ground. The natives always cover themselves up 
 very closely, head and feet, if they happen to be 
 the possessors of a blanket or a cotton chader 
 (sheet), when they lie down on the ground or 
 elsewhere to sleep. The chader serves them a 
 very useful purpose; by day they wrap it about 
 them, and at night, when they sleep, it serves as 
 covering. In the night we were aroused by a cry, 
 "a wolf." It seems that he had crept up and 
 caught the clothing of one of the men and was 
 tugging at it, when he awoke. I usually traveled 
 on horseback, and often at night, in localities 
 where there was danger of being attacked by 
 wolves. 
 
 We had some very pleasant acquaintances 
 in the station, among the English residents, and 
 
172 Twe:nty-one: Yejars in India. 
 
 all were very kind and took much interest in our 
 work, and helped us with liberal donations. Our 
 station doctor (civil surgeon, as called in India) 
 was indeed a character. He was an Irishman of 
 the most rabid kind, and intensely bitter toward 
 the English. He would indulge more freely in 
 his criticisms while with us than he would under 
 other circumstances. The English are very out- 
 spoken and free in their criticisms of public men 
 and measures. I do not think they would have 
 relished criticisms from us, like what they made 
 to us freely. We were very careful to avoid put- 
 ting them to the test in such ways. The magis- 
 trate and collector was a good man, and showed 
 us great kindnesses in many ways. Our work 
 was full of interest, and fully absorbed all our 
 powers. There were times when we were well- 
 nigh overwhelmed by the darkness and wicked- 
 ness that confronted us; but when we saw that 
 some gain was being made, some were interested 
 and moved by the Word, we were encouraged and 
 enabled to press forward in our great work. Our 
 Bazar preaching was attended with a good deal of 
 
TwKNTY-ONE YijARS IN InDIA. 1 73 
 
 interest, and we kept it up regularly. In Novem- 
 ber we went to the great Mela on the Ganges, the 
 *'Puran Massee," where we preached to great 
 crowds of people for about ten days. The season 
 had been one of anxiety to me on account of my 
 wife's illness. She had passed nearly all the sea- 
 son in Naini Tal, and had been very dangerously 
 ill a part of the time. The physician who attended 
 her said she must leave India and return home. 
 This came upon me suddenly, and was a very 
 great trial. It had been impressed upon me that 
 we were to live and die in India. I strongly hoped 
 to do so. Our physician in Moradabad urged our 
 going, assuring me that by doing so only could 
 her life be prolonged. It was a real sorrow to 
 leave the work, opening as it was with so much 
 promise, and I felt I had now just reached a point 
 where I could prosecute it with comfort to my- 
 self and with a hope of success. It requires two 
 or three years to get the language so as to be able 
 to use it with facility and ease. It takes a longer 
 time to so learn the people that we can really un- 
 derstand them and see things from their stand- 
 
174 TwKnty-one: Ykars in India. 
 
 point, and we must do this before we can influence 
 them very much. After fully considering the 
 matter it became evident to all that we must sever 
 our connection with the work, for awhile at least, 
 and return home. In those days we held our rela- 
 tion to our home Conferences. I did not wish to 
 be an occasion of expense to the Missionary So- 
 ciety when at home, so I asked for an appoint- 
 ment in my Conference. I have mentioned Main 
 Phul Singh, one of our early converts from 
 among the Sikhs, and also his wife's death ; hear- 
 ing that we were to leave a little sooner than he 
 supposed, he walked all night to reach us, that I 
 might baptize a young woman and marry him 
 to her before leaving. This service was held be- 
 fore daylight on the morning of our departure 
 from Moradabad. We reached home early in 
 June, a few days more than seven years since 
 sailing from Boston. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 Medical Work. 
 
 While; on our journey over the mountains, 
 from Landour to Naini Tal, in 1859, we were 
 frequently applied to for medicine by the people 
 living along the way, and I became much im- 
 pressed with the importance of having some 
 knowledge of medicine. My attention had pre- 
 viously been directed to this subject in Calcutta. 
 I went out to visit a village of native Christians 
 in the rice-growing region south of Calcutta, 
 where the land is for several months flooded, and 
 the people work in the water a good deal. Of 
 course, in such a region there is a large amount 
 of malaria, and it is very sickly. 
 
 Here I saw how important it was for the 
 missionary in charge of these people to be able 
 to render them medical aid. I then, for the first, 
 became impressed with the fact that in being out 
 
 175 
 
176 TwKnTy-one: Ye^ars in India. 
 
 among the people away from the larger towns 
 and cities it would not only be desirable, but abso- 
 lutely necessary, to give medicine to the sick. 
 India is a hot country, and in some seasons of the 
 year steaming with malaria, and fevers of a 
 malarious type are sure to prevail, and all other 
 maladies that follow in the wake of malaria. 
 
 The mass of the people in all especially mala- 
 rious districts, if not actually prostrated by fever, 
 suffer from enlarged spleen, disorders of the liver 
 and digestive system, and are sure to be in a low 
 condition of health generally. Their priests are 
 supposed to be able to cure diseases of the body 
 as well as the soul. 
 
 They naturally enough suppose that mission- 
 aries must have some knowledge of medicine, and 
 can treat their bodily ailments. They have great 
 faith, as a rule, in our system of medical treat- 
 ment, and will come to us sooner than go to their 
 own people for aid in times of difficulty. The use 
 of medicine seems to them a necessary part of the 
 duties of a missionary, and they take it for granted 
 that he is skilled in the healing art. As time 
 
TwKnTy-one: Years in India. 177 
 
 went on, I did what I could to qualify myself to 
 treat the more common diseases I found prevail- 
 ing as I went about among the people away from 
 the centers, or Sudder Stations. I had medicines 
 put up in convenient form for diseases that pre- 
 vailed at different seasons, and always took them 
 with me as I went among the people on my tours. 
 This gained an entrance for me into many non- 
 Christian families, and made friends, removed 
 prejudice, and made them more favorably dis- 
 posed towards us, and towards the native Chris- 
 tians. In all this we are simply following in the 
 footsteps of the Master Himself. He healed dis- 
 eases and gained the attention and sympathy of 
 the people thereby. In adopting this method in 
 prosecuting our work, we can not be mistaken. 
 India affords a very favorable field for this kind 
 of work. I think every missionary, male and 
 female, would do well to procure some knowledge 
 of medicine, enough to enable them to treat com- 
 mon diseases, as fevers, dysentery, enlargement 
 of the spleen, rheumatic troubles, common skin 
 
 diseases, congestions of the liver, and to know 
 12 
 
178 Twi:nty-one: Ye^ars in India. 
 
 what to do in emergencies or accidents. If one 
 proposes to be about among the people very much 
 in India, I am sure this is very desirable, and I 
 have no doubt it is in other foreign countries as 
 well. It is especially necessary to know how to 
 take care of our health in foreign climates, that 
 differ very much from our own. We can not do 
 in India, as regards being out in the sun, as we 
 are accustomed to do at home. Many, when they 
 first arrive in India, think the missionaries are 
 too careful, and so go on and expose themselves 
 recklessly, and are soon stricken down and die, 
 or have to be sent home, and so become a great 
 expense to the society that sent them out. We 
 are solemnly bound not to be careless, or impru- 
 dent, in the treatment of ourselves on this ground. 
 Our Missionary Society is very kind and generous 
 in the treatment of those it sends out to foreign 
 lands to represent them. It is a matter of honor, 
 therefore, to guard against unnecessary exposure 
 of our health. We are sometimes so placed by 
 the demands of the work that we can hardly avoid 
 some risk in this direction. In such cases one is 
 
TwKNTY-ONK Years in India. 179 
 
 certainly excusable. We often expose ourselves, 
 no doubt, through ignorance; this may be ex- 
 cusable, and it may not be; much depends upon 
 circumstances. It seems to me that a carefully 
 prepared work on this subject, with directions for 
 the treatment of the more common and prevail- 
 ing diseases, and what to do in emergencies and 
 accidents, placed in the hands of every missionary 
 going out, could but be very beneficial. I have 
 long hoped some one well qualified might take 
 up this subject and prepare such a book. It 
 should not be a large book, nor especially learned, 
 but simple and plain, so that non-professional 
 people could easily understand it. I do not advo- 
 cate doctors for India, so much as a good prac- 
 tical knowledge of nursing, or how to care for 
 the sick. There is not the need for medical mis- 
 sionaries in India that there is in some other coun- 
 tries, as China for instance. The Government 
 has a very extensive medical system extending all 
 over British India. In all the great cities are 
 well-regulated hospitals, where the poor can ob- 
 tain treatment and care free of all charges. In 
 
l8o Twi^NTY-ONi: YKARS IN InDIA. 
 
 the smaller places, cities of from ten to twenty 
 thousand population, are located branch hospitals 
 and dispensaries, where people can obtain treat- 
 ment and care in time of sickness. There is, per- 
 haps, no country in the world better cared for 
 than India is, in this, and in most other respects 
 as regards care for the unfortunate classes. 
 Too much can not be said in commendation of 
 the British Government in India as regards all 
 such features. A man goes out as a medical mis- 
 sionar}^, and naturally desires to use his medical 
 knowledge to the fullest and best extent. He 
 must have a hospital, and that involves a consid- 
 erable outlay, and it is not required, except in the 
 out-of-way localities, where he does not care to 
 spend his life. We have a fairly equipped hos- 
 pital in Pithoragarh, founded by Dr. Gray many 
 years ago, which has been of great service to the 
 work there. We have a large and superior hos- 
 pital, for women, in Bareilly, which is doing a 
 great work, but we do not greatly need many ex- 
 pensive hospitals of this kind. Every missionary 
 may well desire to have some knowledge of medi- 
 
TwDnty-one: Years in India. i8i 
 
 cine, as away from the cities and larger villages, 
 where we find hospitals located, are large sections 
 of country where no such institutions are found. 
 In all these sections, as we travel through them, 
 we can do much good by having a supply of medi- 
 cine along, especially if we know how to use it; 
 and further, now we are having native Christians 
 in very many localities out in the country, and 
 they will look to us for medicine when sick. So 
 I decidedly say, what is needed is a good prelimi- 
 nary knowledge of medicine for use out among 
 the people, away from the larger cities. I have 
 always thought that we ought to have some medi- 
 cal instruction of this kind given to our young 
 men, in our excellent Theological Seminary, so 
 ably conducted for many years by Dr. T. J. Scott. 
 I very much wish a department of this kind might 
 be added, even if we had to drop some other sub- 
 jects. Dr. Dease is well qualified to take charge 
 of such a work as this. He has done much dur- 
 ing past years in educating young women in 
 medicine. 
 
 Upon arriving home in 1864, I immediately 
 
l83 Twi:NTY-ONE: YEARS IN InDIA. 
 
 began a systematic course of reading under a 
 medical friend. I had no thought of completing 
 a full course, but I kept on giving the subject at- 
 tention as I could without neglecting my other 
 duties. The Church I was serving here at Little 
 Falls, kindly gave me permission to attend medi- 
 cal lectures in Albany through the week, coming 
 home to supply my pulpit on Sundays. In this 
 way I accomplished the prescribed course and 
 graduated in January, 1866. Not a very good 
 thing to do. I certainly would not recommend it 
 to anybody, but I was anxious to accomplish it 
 for the work in India, for which I felt I had not 
 had the preparation I could wish, and that this 
 would, in some respects, make up for it. A little 
 later I returned to India and was stationed at 
 Naini Tal, where my home has been ever since, 
 when I have been in India. 
 
 Sir Henry Ramsay, Commissioner of Kumaon 
 and Gurhwal, suggested that I should take charge 
 of three Government hospitals, located at differ- 
 ent points in the Bhaber at the foot of the moun- 
 tains. After a time the Central Hospital, located 
 

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TwKnTy-one: Years in India. 183 
 
 at Naini Tal, was placed under my charge; I had 
 charge of these institutions for several years. 
 They were charitable institutions, and I only re- 
 ceived a traveling allowance to meet my expenses 
 in visiting them, as I found it necessary in th^ir 
 superintendence. The Government gave me an 
 expression of thanks for my services, and made a 
 liberal grant of medicines, supplies, and surgical 
 instruments for two private or mission hospitals, 
 one at Dwarahat, another at Bheem Tal, that I 
 desired to open. I think much good was done by 
 this work, though there were some difficulties at- 
 tending it that made me doubt if it would be wise 
 for us to continue to take charge of the hospitals 
 after my time was up. The work was very exact- 
 ing and exhausting, and had grown upon our 
 hands so much that I thought it would not be 
 wise for us to try to go on caring for the Gov- 
 ernment part of it. 
 
 I will now mention one case, out of many that 
 might be cited, to show the way the people were 
 affected by our work. It was our misfortune to 
 have, in some way, given offense to one of the 
 
184 TwKNTY-ONH Years in India. 
 
 leading and most wealthy natives of the place. 
 It seems that this occurred when we first came to 
 Naini Tal and began our school in the Bazar, 
 early in 1858. How it came about, I do not re- 
 member, but he had never forgiven us or been 
 friendly with us in any way. He had talked 
 against us, and in many quiet ways sought to 
 counteract our efforts. I was, therefore, quite 
 surprised one day to receive a call from him, 
 when he frankly told me that he had never liked 
 us. "But," said he, ''I like what you are doing; 
 you are not like the rest of them, all talk ; you are 
 doing something more than talk. I can talk as fast 
 and loud as they can, but when I heard about 
 your going to the Bazar in the storm and dark 
 night to help a woman who had been hurt by the 
 house falling in upon them, I said, I like that kind 
 of a missionary." Ever after, to the end of his 
 life, he was a warm and true friend. He was ever 
 ready to do anything in his power to aid me, and 
 was much more favorably disposed towards Chris- 
 tianity than he had been in earlier years. He said, 
 "I can not change now, I am too old. These young 
 
TwENTY-ONK Years in India. 185 
 
 people can, and I am willing they should, if they 
 will only be honest and sincere." His sons are 
 prominent men now, in Naini Tal, and are very 
 friendly and ready to assist us at any time when 
 we ask it. They have often said to me late years, 
 *'We can never forget how our father loved you." 
 One day my friend, Pundit Nund Kishore, 
 Tahsildar of Sambhal, in Moradabad District, 
 came to see me, and suggested that I should un- 
 dertake the education of a class of young native 
 Christian women, with a view to their practicing 
 among the better families, where the women are 
 secluded, or behind the Purdah. I replied, ''Where 
 can the young women having sufficient education 
 be found?" He answered at once, "You can get 
 them from your Girls' Orphanage in Bareilly." 
 He proposed to be responsible for all expense the 
 effort might involve. I promised to consider the 
 subject and let him know my conclusion in a few 
 days. After careful consideration and consulta- 
 tion with Sir Henry, I determined to undertake 
 it. I saw from the start that it would involve a 
 great amount of labor and perplexity, but it 
 
i86 TwDNTY-ONK Yi:ars in India. 
 
 seemed in the order of providence that I should 
 make the effort. Nund Kishore apphed at once 
 to Government for a "Grant in Aid," to help the 
 project along", that he knew would bring the sub- 
 ject before Government, and it would be talked' 
 about in Government circles. Most of the Gov- 
 ernment surgeons gave it as their opinion that 
 the thing was not practicable; they said it would 
 be a good thing if it were so, but, in their opinion, 
 native women had not sufficient ability to grasp 
 the subject, to begin with; and even if they had, 
 they certainly do not have sufficient stamina and 
 strength of character to enable them to practice 
 with any fair degree of success. Sir William 
 Muir, one of the very best men I have ever known, 
 was Governor at the time, and was much inter- 
 ested from the first. He said, "It, of course^ is an 
 experiment, but it is worth trying; it may prove 
 the beginning of a great popular movement." So 
 the grant was given. In about two years a com- 
 mittee of medical men of high standing was sent 
 to report to Government the progress made by 
 the young women. They examined them very 
 
Twknty-one: Years in India. 187 
 
 thoroughly in everything gone over by them, es- 
 pecially in the treatment of the sick and the man- 
 agement of surgical cases, and they expressed 
 themselves as pleased with the result of their ex- 
 amination. Certificates were given to eight of 
 the women, commending them as believed to be 
 qualified to practice, having about the grade of 
 fourth-class Government native doctors. Govern- 
 ment was very glad to get some of these women 
 as assistants in the large hospitals in the cities of 
 the plains. I graduated four or five more the fol- 
 lowing year. So much as this was accomplished 
 by this effort ; it became certain, in the minds of 
 prominent men in the service, in the medical de- 
 partment, that, the education of native women in 
 medicine is quite possible, and that, when educated, 
 there is good ground to hope that they will prove 
 themselves capable of doing good service. Gov- 
 ernment immediately opened the medical schools 
 to native Christian girls, and has done everything 
 to encourage the movement. When Lord Duf- 
 ferin came out as Viceroy, Her Majesty, the 
 Queen, called Lady Dufferin's attention to this 
 
I^S '' TwE^NTY-ONi: YdARS IN InDIA. 
 
 subject. Through her efforts a great work has 
 been accompHshed for the women of India. Now 
 there are female hospitals in nearly every large 
 city, well supplied with female doctors, both Eu- 
 ropean and native. Miss Dr. Swain had a class 
 in Bareilly. Dr. Dease also had a class of this 
 kind and did much in this direction. All these 
 efforts helped to awaken interest in this great 
 humane movement to provide medical assistance 
 for the millions of women of India, who have been 
 left to meet the ills that fall to the lot of woman, 
 without such aid hitherto. 
 
 I have just seen a statement that Lady Cur- 
 zon, wife of the present Governor-General, is in- 
 teresting herself in this movement, and has raised 
 a large sum from wealthy natives to further the 
 education of native women in medicine for prac- 
 ticing in the homes of the higher classes of the 
 people. 
 
CHAPTER XL 
 Our Work in the Mountains. 
 
 In this chapter I propose to describe the work 
 in the mountains as it existed from 1868 to 1874. 
 In one of the eadier chapters I have given an ac- 
 count of the beginning of the work in Naini Tal. 
 Some years before the mutiny, the Rev. J. H. 
 Budden, of the London Missionary Society, lo- 
 cated in Almorah, the old capital of Kumaon, 
 about thirty miles to the northeast of Naini Tal. 
 Mr. Budden had built up a very interesting work 
 there, and was naturally desirous to extend it to 
 all the centers about the interior hills. 
 
 In 1859, after the close of our first Confer- 
 ence, Mr. Thoburn, now Bishop Thoburn, was 
 sent to Naini Tal, and during his time the work 
 was extended in several directions, especially at 
 the foot of the mountains, in what is known as 
 the Bhaber, a tract of land lying in between the 
 
 189 
 
190 Twknty-one: Ye:ars in India. 
 
 mountains on one side, and the Tarai on the 
 other. 
 
 Sir Henry Ramsay, the Commissioner of Ku- 
 maon and Gurhwal, was engaged in settHng this 
 region with hill people. 
 
 The meaning of the word Bhaber, is waterless 
 forest. The soil is made up of debris washed 
 down from the mountains, leaving it slightly de- 
 scending towards the plains. In this soil water 
 can not be obtained by digging wells, as it can 
 in most of Upper India. This is one reason that 
 makes this portion of India so fertile, water can 
 be obtained for purposes of irrigation without 
 great difiiculty. To provide water for their crops 
 in this region of the Bhaber, a system of irrigation 
 had been devised. The people living in the lower 
 range of hills near, go down and clear the lands 
 and make themselves winter homes in this lo- 
 cality, and in this way they escape the cold of the 
 mountains and raise good crops in a season when 
 nothing can be grown in the hills. Then, when 
 the hot season begins, they return to their homes 
 in the mountains, and so escape the great heat of 
 
TwKNTY-ONE YKARS in InDIA. I9I 
 
 the plains, and cultivate their fields in their moun- 
 tain homes. This has been of the greatest ad- 
 vantage to these people; it has made them very 
 comfortable and well-to-do. 
 
 Their fields in the Bhaber are now very beauti- 
 ful and fertile, and, having a fine system of irri- 
 gation, their crops seldom, if ever, fail. So the 
 people of this region are much better off than in 
 any other part of the country with which I am 
 acquainted. 
 
 We have had for many years a very interest- 
 ing field for work during the cold season down 
 in this locality. The time came when we wished 
 to extend our work in the mountains, and in do- 
 ing this some friction seemed likely to arise, and 
 we were in danger of conflicting with the plans 
 of our brethren of the other Mission. This was 
 the condition of things when I was appointed to 
 Naini Tal in 1868. As soon as I learned the 
 conditions existing, I proposed a meeting of the 
 missionaries of both Societies, in Almorah. This 
 meeting was held, Messrs. Budden and Kenneday 
 representing the London Mission ; Mr. Judd and 
 
192 Twe:nty-one: Ye:ars in India. 
 
 myself representing our Society. Our mutual 
 friend, Sir Henry Ramsay, met with us, and we 
 soon arrived at an understanding, and a division 
 of territory was agreed upon that has been per- 
 fectly satisfactory from that day to this. We 
 also formed a general organization, uniting all 
 our Missions in the Provinces, for mutual help 
 and improvement, under one general committee. 
 Our plan provided for holding an annual meet- 
 ing for both Europeans and natives, alternating 
 between Naini Tal and Almorah, at which time 
 it was proposed to hold a mass-meeting, bringing 
 both classes into closer sympathy and contact, 
 hoping thereby to awaken greater interest in the 
 cause. It was thought that a large popular meet- 
 ing of this kind might be the means of great good. 
 And so it proved. Some most remarkable meetings 
 were held. The first one was held in Naini Tal, 
 in 1870, and it was one of the most impressive 
 meetings I ever attended. Our Church was packed 
 mostly with our native friends. Sir Henry Ram- 
 say presided, and some stirring addresses were 
 made by Europeans and natives. The effect of 
 
SA DAS AND FAMILY OF NATIVE CHRISTIANS. 
 
TwENTY-ONi: Years in India. 193 
 
 the meeting in the Province was very far-reach- 
 ing upon both classes, that is, Europeans and na- 
 tives. Isa Das was baptized in Haldwane about 
 this time. 
 
 It had a fine effect upon the natives particu- 
 larly, as they like frankness, something they 
 themselves are not remarkable for, and like to 
 have European officials speak out directly on the 
 subject of religion. 
 
 In addition to our central school at Naini Tal, 
 we had several schools of a lower grade at dif- 
 ferent points out in the hills at a distance varying 
 from ten to fifteen miles. These schools were 
 held in the hills in the hot season, and in the 
 plains in the cold weather. We had a few that 
 continued the year round in the Bhaber. They 
 required a good deal of attention, and when visit- 
 ing them, it gave me an excellent opportunity to 
 meet the people and preach to them. I made a 
 point of always carrying with me a good supply 
 of medicines, and so prescribed for the sick. If I 
 found any specially bad cases, I arranged for 
 them to come into one of our hospitals, where 
 13 
 
194 Twenty-one Years in India. 
 
 they could have the care and attention needed. 
 This they could not have in their homes in the 
 villages. 
 
 These were very busy years: the care of the 
 schools, the constant demands of the sick, attend- 
 ing at the hospitals, teaching the medical class, 
 and all other incidental demands upon one's time. 
 I wonder how I got through it all. In addition 
 to all this, I had charge of a large English con- 
 gregation, for which one service in the evening 
 of each Sunday was held. This service was at- 
 tended by Sir William Muir and family, and 
 many others connected with Government. This 
 service was only continued for about eight months 
 in the year. The remaining months were devoted 
 entirely to native work, such as supervising the 
 schools and hospitals, and visiting the villages in 
 the country about the foot of the hills. 
 
 In 1870 we had a visit from Rev. William 
 Taylor, who was very celebrated as an evangelist 
 in those days, and whose labors had been attended 
 with great success in South Africa and Australia, 
 and in other countries, as well as at home. In 
 
TwENTY-ON^ YljARS IN InDIA. I95 
 
 South Africa he had preached through an inter- 
 preter to heathen natives with marked success ; we 
 hoped he might do so in India as well, but for 
 some reason that method of speaking to the people 
 did not succeed as we hoped it might. He held 
 meetings among the natives quite extensively, and 
 with some success, but his great work was done 
 among English-speaking people. He spent about 
 two months with us in Naini Tal, and was an 
 inmate of our home for that period, and held a 
 series of special meetings in our Naini Tal 
 Church, and many started out in an earnest Chris- 
 tian life. Mr. Taylor was very well received by 
 the English residents of Naini Tal, and we re- 
 ceived great good from his stay among us. 
 
 While with us at that time, he and Mrs. 
 Humphrey compiled and prepared for the press 
 an English Hymn-book, with tunes, which he sent 
 to England to his publisher there, and in due time 
 it came out in very attractive style. Mr. Taylor 
 sent us a present of two hundred copies for the 
 use of our congregation. This book served a 
 most useful purpose with us for a good number of 
 
196 Twi:nty-one: Years in India. 
 
 years, but it has now been superseded by newer 
 publications. 
 
 Mr. Taylor's coming to us marks an era in 
 our history as a mission. He soon recognized 
 that his mission was to the English-speaking pop- 
 ulation. We have many such who are born in 
 India. Many of them are of mixed descent and 
 are known as Eurasians ; to them, in every sense, 
 India is home. There are others born in India, 
 who are not of mixed descent, but India is their 
 home; they have but little, if any, expectation of 
 ever leaving it. 
 
 There are communities scattered about over 
 the country, and in the large towns, and on the 
 lines of railway, on the coffee and tea plantations, 
 and about the mines of different kinds worked in 
 various parts of the country. The largest Eng- 
 lish-speaking communities are found in the Presi- 
 dency towns, or great seaports, as Bombay, Cal- 
 cutta, Madras, and so on. Mr. Taylor soon 
 found his way to these great centers, and im- 
 portant and most useful Churches have been 
 raised up in all of those places. If any one famil- 
 
TwENTY-ONK Years in India. 197 
 
 iar with the history of this movement ever 
 doubted that we have a mission to the EngHsh- 
 speaking people of India, if they will consider 
 what has been done in the way of Churches raised 
 up, schools founded, and souls saved, I am sure 
 they will doubt no more. 
 
 As a Church, I think we feel that we have 
 had a very honorable part in helping to improve 
 the moral tone of European society in India. 
 
 Mr. Taylor began his work independent of 
 our Missionary Society, and his plan was that it 
 should be carried on on a self-supporting basis, 
 and it was carried on in this way for some years, 
 but at length it was adopted by the Board, and is 
 now carried on as all our work is, directly under 
 the Missionary Society. 
 
 I have spoken of Mr. Taylor's visit to us as 
 forming a crisis in our history. It does so in this 
 way : our mission field had been definitely located 
 as embracing Oudh, Rohilcund, and the mountain 
 districts of Kumaon and Gurhwal. We had 
 found it necessary to break over our bounds, in 
 one or two instances, before Mr. Taylor's arrival. 
 
198 TwKNTY-ONE Yi:arS in InDIA. 
 
 His work extending over the South of India, 
 made it necessary to extend our Hmits until we 
 ceased to recognize any Hmits whatsoever. We 
 came to feel that we must let God lead us, and 
 He does not set bounds to his work as we are 
 inclined to do. We have had many things to 
 learn as the years have gone by, and among them 
 is this : it is better to let God lead us by his Provi- 
 dence and Spirit as to where we should go and 
 what we should do. 
 
 Before dismissing the subject of Mr. Taylor's 
 visit, I desire to add a word as to how he im- 
 pressed me. I had a very good opportunity to 
 study his character as he appeared at that time. 
 He was with us in our home for about two months, 
 and he could not see just what God's plan was for 
 his future. He had finished his work in our Mis- 
 sion in the plains, and he was now waiting to see 
 where God would lead him. He waited very pa- 
 tiently for the Lord to show him His will. I 
 think I have never seen such unwavering faith as 
 he seemed to exercise. He seemed to feel that he 
 and the I^ord had a perfect understanding ; he did 
 
Twenty-one: Yi:ars in India. 199 
 
 not seem to have a single doubt, under circum- 
 stances that most persons would have felt to be 
 rather dark and forbidding. I felt that he was 
 indeed a great man of God. He was peculiar in 
 many things, but it seemed to me easy to see that 
 -he was a remarkable man, and that God was with 
 him in a wonderful way. This was an opinion 
 formed of him many years ago, before he became 
 the founder of our extensive and wonderful work 
 in South America, and our pioneer Bishop of 
 Africa. 
 
 An interesting incident occurred this season, 
 which may be worth mentioning. Our colporter 
 Obadiah, whose field of labor was down at the 
 foot of the mountains, when out on one of his 
 tours, was overtaken by night when in an isolated 
 nook among the foothills of the Great Himalayas. 
 He was hospitably entertained by a Hindu family 
 living in the region. The members of the family 
 became much interested in what he told them 
 about our Savior, and in the morning would take 
 nothing for his entertainment, but insisted in pay- 
 ing him his price for a Testament in Hindee. In 
 
200 TwE:NTY-ONi: Yi:ars in India. 
 
 a few months I had the great privilege of baptiz- 
 ing the whole family, which consisted of a father 
 and mother and two sons. 
 
 That Testament was loaned to another family 
 some miles away in the mountains, and I soon 
 after baptized that family, and then several others. 
 In a little time a Christian community was gath- 
 ered in the Bhaber, in which we were deeply in- 
 terested for many years. The families gathered 
 in at that time are nearly all gone now. 
 
 In 1873, owing to malarial fever contracted 
 down at the foot of the hills, I was induced to 
 take a voyage from Calcutta around to Bombay 
 on a coasting steamer. We visited all the ports 
 along our route. I was especially delighted with 
 our visit to Columbo, in Ceylon, where we were 
 very hospitably entertained by a gentleman of 
 the name of Ferguson, if I remember correctly. 
 He was the editor of the leading paper of that 
 place. They were a lovely family, and we enjoyed 
 a day or two of rest in their lovely home, more 
 than I can express. Their residence was situated 
 in a grove of cocoanut trees, a few rods from the 
 sea. 
 
Twi:nty-one: Ye:ars in India. aoi 
 
 The breaking of the great waves on the shore 
 as they came rolHng in from the vast expanse of 
 ocean off at the south, was hke the booming of a 
 cannon. The memory of those dear people has, 
 through all the years, been very precious to us. 
 They were Baptists, and a few days before had 
 received a visit from some of their missionaries 
 on the way to Burmah, who were at that time on 
 the sea. By appointment, at a given hour Sun- 
 day evening, we sang a hymn which was written 
 as a prayer for friends at sea, and then they were 
 most lovingly remembered in prayer. We were 
 much touched by this loving thoughtfulness, and 
 could well appreciate it, situated as we were at 
 the time. We had a most delightful trip over 
 the pearl fishery ground to Tuticorin on the 
 main land, where we had a wedding of a lady 
 who had just come out from England, and was 
 met by an engineer on a railway being built in the 
 interior, some distance from the coast. We saw 
 them married, got up as good a dinner for them 
 as possible in the rickety old Dak Bungalow, and 
 started them off in an ox-cart for their journey 
 
202 Twe:nty-one Ye:ars in India. 
 
 into the interior to their home that was to be for 
 a time. We had a most dehghtful stay of two or 
 three days in Bombay, and then hastened to Alla- 
 habad to attend the great Missionary Conference 
 to be held there, beginning on Christmas-day and 
 continuing until New- Year's. This was a much 
 larger meeting than the one held ten years before 
 in Lahore, but it lacked the presence of the dis- 
 tinguished laymen who took a prominent part in 
 that meeting. There were missionaries present 
 from every part of India, and it was a very in- 
 spiring and memorable meeting. Another Mis- 
 sionary Conference was held in Calcutta in 1883, 
 which was very successful. Another was held 
 in Bombay in 1893. One has just been held in 
 Madras, which seems to have been a large and im- 
 portant meeting. 
 
 Towards the end of this season, 1873, my 
 friend, Pundit Nund Kishore, sent for me to 
 come to Moradabad and visit him. I found him 
 very ill and evidently nearing his end. He said, 
 "I have not sent for you as a doctor merely, but 
 I wish to talk with you and learn what I must 
 
TwKNTY-ONK Ye:arS IN InDIA. ^OJ 
 
 do to be saved." I urged him to accept Christ 
 and trust in Him alone. I spent two days with 
 him and explained the way to him as fully as I 
 could, and I think he did accept Christ as his 
 Savior, and continued to do so to the end. On 
 two or three occasions he and his wife and all 
 the members of his family would come in and 
 kneel around his bed while I led in prayer. This 
 means a great deal more than those who do not 
 know the circumstances can well understand, for 
 a high caste Hindu to call in his wife and family 
 for prayer in this way was a very marked and 
 impressive confession of faith in our holy re- 
 ligion. 
 
 I had the pleasure of introducing Brother and 
 Sister Parker to the family, who, I knew, would 
 delight to minister to them in their affliction, and 
 returned to my home in Naini Tal. The Pundit 
 died soon afterward, I believe a true believer in 
 Christ, though he did not make a public pro- 
 fession of Him other than that made in his fam- 
 ily. We have many such cases in India, who are 
 never counted in our statistics as Christians ; but 
 
204 Twi:nty-one Ykars in India. 
 
 who can doubt that they are counted among the 
 redeemed in heaven ? 
 
 Towards the end of the season it became evi- 
 dent that I must seek an entire change. I could 
 not get rid of the malaria, and was on the verge 
 of nervous prostration. My medical friends all 
 said I must get out of the country and return 
 home. So, with many regrets, I bade my friends 
 in India good-bye for the second time, after about 
 fifteen years' service in the field, and returned to 
 the United States. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Naini Tal, Pithoragarh, and the Tarai. 
 
 Upon my leaving Naini Tal in 1874, the Eng- 
 lish congregation had reached a point of develop- 
 ment where it was felt that a pastor was needed 
 for it who might devote his entire time and 
 strength to its interests, and that his support could 
 be provided by the congregation. I had been oc- 
 cupied with a large amount of native work of 
 different kinds, as well as the medical work, which 
 itself was enough to tax the energies to the ut- 
 most of one well and strong man, and could not 
 give my chief attention to the English Church. 
 My salary had been paid from home, so they 
 could not command my services beyond what 
 seemed proper to give, all other parts of the work 
 being taken into the account. The English work 
 we had always considered as a kind of adjunct 
 to the other work, or as something thrown in, 
 that we might do if we could without interfering 
 
 205 
 
2o6 TwKNTY-ONi: Ye:ars in India. 
 
 very much with our real work, which we thought 
 to be among the people of the country or the na- 
 tives. The Church had now reached a stage in 
 its development when this did not seem to meet 
 its demands. 
 
 The congregation had contributed liberally to 
 the native work, and had enlarged the church 
 building and helped materially in many ways, and 
 ever stood ready to do anything they were de- 
 sired to do for the furtherance of the work, but 
 now they thought they might undertake the sup- 
 port of a pastor of their own^ and so leave him 
 free to give all his time and strength to the care 
 of the Church. The matter was laid before Bishop 
 Harris upon his visit to us, and upon returning 
 to the United States he appointed the Rev. N. G. 
 Cheney, of New York East Conference, to Naini 
 Tal, who was most warmly received, and liberal 
 arrangements were made for his support. In a 
 short time a house was built by the congregation 
 for the pastor's residence, and he soon gathered 
 about him many devoted and loyal friends. His 
 pastorate of six years was in every way a very 
 
NAINI TAL ENGLISH CHURCH 
 
Twenty-one: Years in India. 207 
 
 successful one. Many Avere helped and strength- 
 ened in the Christian life, and the Church was 
 made a power for good in our Anglo-Indian com- 
 munity of Upper India. 
 
 During Mr. Cheney's lastyear a beautiful stone 
 church was built at the lower end of the lake, a 
 mile away from the Mission premises. In 1880 
 a most disastrous landslide occurred. The side of 
 a mountain came down, sweeping away a large 
 hotel and several other buildings contiguous to 
 the Mission property, seriously damaging several 
 of our residences, and especially endangering the 
 Mission church. The cause of the disaster was a 
 very heavy fall of rain. In thirty-six hours as 
 many inches of rain fell ; this loosened the gravelly 
 soil of the mountain, and, the base having been 
 dug away for building purposes, the whole moun- 
 tain side came down, bearing large trees with it, 
 and sweeping everything before it. This was the 
 most destructive landslide ever known in the his- 
 tory of the place. A large amount of property 
 was destroyed, and much more was seriously dam- 
 aged, and many lives were lost. 
 
2o8 TwKnty-one: Years in India. 
 
 It seriously damaged the station, and for a 
 time threatened its destruction; but the Govern- 
 ment at once set vigorously about repairing the 
 damage and introducing precautionary measures, 
 so the place was soon rendered far more safe than 
 it had ever been before, and gradually public con- 
 fidence was restored. 
 
 Our Mission houses were not actually de- 
 stroyed, but they were badly damaged, and it was 
 feared for a time that they could never again be 
 safe enough to make people willing to occupy 
 them. They were much battered and broken, and 
 the rooms were filled to the ceiling with shale that 
 came down the mountain side in the great storm. 
 The Mission church did not suffer as much as 
 most of our other buildings, but it was thought 
 to be unsafe, and so measures were at once taken 
 to build a place of worship at the lower end of 
 the lake. This was completed in about a year. 
 At the end of Mr. Cheney's pastorate of six years, 
 I took over the charge from him. This was my 
 third appointment to Naini Tal. The new church 
 building had just been dedicated upon my arrival. 
 
TwENTY-OxXK Years in India. 209 
 
 I immediately set about the renovation of the 
 Mission property, and found that the buildings 
 were not as badly damaged as was supposed to 
 be the case. They were soon repaired, and grad- 
 ually, as the people gained confidence, they were 
 rented and occupied. 
 
 The same year that I took charge of the Eng- 
 lish Church, Miss E. I. Knowles, of New Jersey, 
 came out to take charge of an English girls' 
 boarding-school, which had been opened a short 
 time before. She conducted this school for five 
 or six years with signal success, and during her 
 administration a fine property was purchased for 
 the school, and it was placed on a substantial and 
 permanent foundation. Under the able manage- 
 ment of its present principal, Miss S. A. Easton, 
 and her very efficient assistant, Miss Rue Sellers, 
 it has become one of the best schools of its kind 
 in India — one that does us the greatest credit, 
 and of which we are all proud. I found a school 
 also for English-speaking boys, which had been 
 opened by Dr. Waugh during Mr. Cheney's pas- 
 torate. The Rev. H. F. Kastendieck, now of 
 14 
 
2IO Twi:nty-one: Ykars in India. 
 
 New York East Conference, was in charge of it. 
 The school was under the management of the 
 EngHsh Church, through its pastor. It was con- 
 ducted by a committee of gentlemen representing 
 the Church during my pastorate of two years 
 following. It then passed over into the hands 
 of the Conference, and is conducted by a com- 
 mittee appointed by that body. 
 
 This school now has a fine property and loca- 
 tion, and is prospering under the principalship of 
 the Rev. Dr. Butcher. It is a fine school now, 
 and stands well among other schools of the kind 
 in the country. For a season I was engaged in 
 native work, and spent some time in Eastern 
 Kumaon and in the Tarai. In Pithoragarh, on 
 the borders of Nepal, a very prosperous work 
 had been built up by Dr. Gray and Miss Anna 
 Budden. Dr. Gray had opened a hospital, which 
 was much needed in this locality. The building 
 was well suited to the needs of the place, and all 
 of its appointments were excellent. I found it 
 under the charge of Mr. Amos Miller, a very 
 competent native doctor, who is still in charge of 
 it, so far as I am informed. 
 
TwKnty-one: Ykars in India. 211 
 
 At that time, Miss Budden was on leave to 
 the United States, and Miss Nickerson and Miss 
 Phebe Rowe were in charge of the work in the 
 women's department. They were both of them 
 noble missionaries. A few years later, Miss Nick- 
 erson died on her way home, and was buried in 
 the Red Sea. Miss Rowe died with us in Naini 
 Tal, a few years ago, and we laid her away in 
 our beautiful station cemetery, where Bishop 
 Parker now rests. I can say without any qualifi- 
 cation or doubt, that Miss Rowe was one of the 
 most saintly characters it has ever been my privi- 
 lege to know. She was greatly honored by all 
 that knew her, whether among Europeans or na- 
 tives. Her loss was greatly felt by us all in 
 India. 
 
 We had several schools located at different 
 points about the district out there. These were 
 full of interest to me. I exceedingly enjoyed vis- 
 iting them and meeting the people, who would 
 come to the schoolhouse to see me, thus affording 
 me an excellent opportunity to preach to them. 
 I always made a point of seeing any sick people 
 
213 Twe:nTy-oni: Ye:ars in India. 
 
 that might present themselves, and I often went 
 with them to their homes to see sick ones there, 
 that could not come to see me, and often they 
 would bring their sick out to intercept me on the 
 road where they knew I would pass. There were 
 a great number of lepers in this part of the hills. 
 We had many cases presenting themselves at the 
 hospital, in cases where the disease was in its in- 
 cipient stages; that is, before it had so far de- 
 veloped as to be unmistakable. On Sundays, at 
 the close of our morning service, a score or more 
 of these poor unfortunate people would be found 
 sitting on the ground, a little distance away, so 
 as to be quite separate from the other people, 
 waiting for us to speak to them and make them 
 some small gift, to enable them to procure food. 
 Since that time an asylum has been built for these 
 people in that region, and they are well cared for 
 now, both as regards their bodies and souls. The 
 circumstances attending the opening of the asy- 
 lum are rendered very pathetic by the case of Miss 
 Mary Reid, who is the superintendent of it. Miss 
 Reid is one of the missionaries of the Woman's 
 
Twenty-one: Yi:ars in India. 213 
 
 Missionary Society, and while home on furlough 
 she felt that in some way, entirely unknown to 
 her, she had contracted the dreadful disease. She 
 consulted physicians in this country, but they were 
 not familiar with the disease, and could not de- 
 cide with any degree of certainty ; but the general 
 opinion was that it was leprosy. She left home 
 and returned, feeling that she was a leper. On 
 her way she consulted physicians in London who 
 had been in India and were familiar with the 
 disease; they gave it as their opinion that it was 
 leprosy, but it is not always easy to diagnose the 
 disease in its earlier stages, as I well know from 
 actual experience. But Miss Reid went back feel- 
 ing that this great burden of sorrow had been 
 assigned her in God's providence for a purpose, 
 and that was, that she should devote her life to 
 ministering to these poor suffering people. 
 
 In due time an asylum was built on a beautiful 
 eminence overlooking the shore valley, as you 
 approach it from the west, and she has had charge 
 of it for some years now. Miss Reid is a culti- 
 vated and devoted Christian lady, and has nobly 
 
2i4 1^we:nty-one: Yi:ars in India. 
 
 borne her heavy cross. She is doing a most gra- 
 cious work of compassion, and she will have many 
 stars to shine in her crown from among these 
 poor afflicted people. I am glad to say, that ac- 
 cording to my latest information, her condition is 
 much improved, and she believes she is cured. 
 
 Miss Budden has done a great work in that 
 part of the province, particularly among women. 
 She had a great work when I knew it, which was 
 quite a number of years ago ; it must have grown 
 a good deal since that time. I have heard it said 
 that among the people generally in that region of 
 the country, she is held in the highest regard and 
 is honored by all. 
 
 To the north of Pithoragarh, up under the 
 snowy range, near the pass over into Thibet, is 
 the country of the Bhootias, where Miss Dr. Shel- 
 don has labored untiringly for some years, and 
 her devoted friend and assistant, Miss Brown, 
 who is a Naini Tal girl, and whom I have known 
 from her childhood. A few like Phebe Rowe 
 and Miss Brown will amply repay us for all we 
 have done for these people. I think we shall yet 
 
TwKNTY-ONK Years in India. 215 
 
 have many missionaries raised up from among 
 the Enghsh-speaking people of India. They are 
 particularly well adapted to the work in some 
 respects; they know the language of the natives 
 from childhood, and, having grown up among 
 the people, they naturally know them much better 
 than we can who come to them farther on in life 
 and from another distant and very different coun- 
 tr}^ It is a very important matter for a mission- 
 ary to know the people well and to sympathize 
 with them; it is not a very easy thing for us to 
 really come to know them ; it takes time and effort 
 to do this. Those born in the country have an 
 advantage in this respect. I have felt for years 
 that if we can reach English-speaking people, and 
 get them baptized with the Holy Spirit, we would 
 surely reach the natives and a revival would break 
 out among them. I do not think the importance 
 of our schools and English work generally in 
 India is fully appreciated in this country. I think 
 our schools for this class of people should have a 
 heartier support at home than they seem to have. 
 At this point a few words about the hill peo- 
 
2i6 Twe:nty-on^ Ykars in India. 
 
 pie may be well. As we come among them at 
 first we are impressed by the fact that they are 
 not like the plains people in many of their char- 
 acteristics. The Hindus are of Aryan origin; 
 their ancestors came from some place in Central 
 Asia, probably Persia ; a portion of the same stock 
 emigrated to the West, entered Europe, and we 
 are descended from them^ so that we, and the 
 ancestors of the Hindus, are of the same race. 
 When the Aryans arrived in Upper India they 
 found it already inhabitated by a people that came 
 into the country from Central Asia farther to the 
 East. These people are called Indo-Burmans, or 
 Kolarians. The Aryans crowded them out of 
 the plains and drove them into the mountains, 
 where many of them may be found at the pres- 
 ent time, not much advanced from what they were 
 when the Aryans first came in contact with them. 
 Generally in India they have been assimilated 
 into Hinduism. They have accepted caste and 
 call themselves Hindus. Buddhism, too, has fil- 
 tered into the hills from the way of Burmah, so 
 we find it in Nepal. Kumaon formerly belonged 
 
Twe:nty-one Years in India. 217 
 
 to the Nepalese, and was taken from them by the 
 British. We have no Buddhism in the hills, so 
 far as I know, in the British possessions, or in the 
 plains either. Buddhism is strong in Ceylon and 
 in Burmah. There are about eight or nine mil- 
 lions of Buddhists in those sections, and about as 
 many of the aboriginals living in the hills and 
 wild parts of the country. 
 
 There came into India by the passes to the 
 Northwest, the same that the Aryans, later, en- 
 tered the country by, a class sometimes called 
 Scythians, now usually known as Dravidians, 
 probably from Turkistan; these swept on to the 
 South and settled Southern India, but they have 
 all been assimilated by the Hindus. Sir William 
 Hunter thinks the number of undoubted descend- 
 ants of the Aryans is probably not much more than 
 about twenty millions. It must be seen that the 
 assimilating power of the Hindu system is amaz- 
 ing. There are over two hundred and seven mil- 
 lions of so-called Hindus in India. There is very 
 little attention paid as to what a man believes, 
 or what he does, so long as he recognizes the 
 
3lS TwEjNTY-ONi: Y^ARS IN InDIA. 
 
 supremacy of the Brahmins, and obeys the laws 
 of caste; so it can be seen that Brahminism or 
 Hinduism is composed of a great mass of crude 
 and gross ideas, systems, and observances, quite 
 beyond the power of comprehension, certainly be- 
 yond our power or ability to explain. Hinduism 
 is, in fact, a great mass, of corruption, with very 
 little redeeming connected with it. To me it is 
 a marvel that the people reared under it are as 
 good as they are, or that they have any good 
 about them. Before passing entirely from East- 
 ern Kumaon, it may be well to mention one in- 
 cident that occurred at that time, that has given 
 me much encouragement and satisfaction. A 
 man of rather a high caste came to me one day, 
 bringing with him a Testament in the Hindee 
 language, and urgently entreated me to read it 
 with him, and explain it to him. Though in- 
 tensely pressed with w^ork of many different 
 kinds, I promised to give him a half hour each 
 day, he coming very promptly at the hour named. 
 We began our reading, closing with a short 
 prayer. This was continued for several weeks, 
 
TwknTy-one: Ye:ars in India. 219 
 
 until I left the place. vSome months afterward, 
 word came to me one day in Naini Tal that a 
 man in a certain part of the station, who was dy- 
 ing with cholera, was most anxious to see me. I 
 hastened to him and found him in the collapse 
 stage of the disease, and evidently near his end. 
 His mind was perfectly clear, as is likely to be 
 the case with one dying from that fearful dis- 
 ease. He expressed his delight at seeing me, and 
 said he wished to tell me how glad he was that I 
 spent those hours with him in Shore, and taught 
 him to know; and love Jesus. He added, "I am 
 not afraid to die; I am going to Him." He had 
 victory through the blood of Calvary, and there, 
 in that little hut — he lying on the ground, with no 
 human friend near, and dying — was heaven. It 
 was only one instance out of many of a similar 
 kind; it was only one poor man — one soul saved 
 — yet it was amply worth all I had gone through 
 in course of my missionary life in India. The 
 memory of that hour will never be forgotten. 
 
 This year I had charge of some interesting 
 work in the Tarai. There is a class of people 
 
220 Twi^NTY-ONE) YKARS IN InDIA. 
 
 through that section called Tarus. They were 
 neither Hindus nor Mohammedans, and we knew 
 very little of their history, as to where they came 
 from, and what brought them where they were. 
 We thought they gave promise of becoming 
 Christians in a body, as the Sikhs in the Morada- 
 bad district did in the early history of our work ; 
 and along at different times through the years 
 that had intervened, since Brother Thoburn had 
 come in contact with them while he was living at 
 Naini Tal, we heard of them^ and hoped much 
 from them, but somehow they never made any 
 decisive move toward becoming Christians. They 
 came to me and besought me to visit them. I did 
 so, and spent some time among them. I found 
 one thing seemed to stand in their way ; they were 
 exceedingly fond of drink. They claimed they 
 could not live in the Tarai without it, as much 
 of the year it is fearfully sickly all through that 
 region. This, I think, had much to do in turn- 
 ing them from their purpose to become Christians, 
 as we strongly insisted, as the first step, that they 
 must abandon all forms of intoxicating drink. 
 
Tw:^NTY-ONE Years in India. 221 
 
 This they were not willing to do. Had they lived 
 in localities where we could have had access to 
 them, I think it might have been different with 
 them. As it was, they were surrounded by those 
 who would have been bitter enemies to them 
 had they became Christians, and being demoral- 
 ized by drink, their convictions were not suffi- 
 ciently deep to enable them to face the difficulties 
 that confronted them. They knew that they could 
 have but little help from us, as we could go 
 into that section during only a very small part 
 of the year ; it would be suicidal to attempt it, so 
 they felt that they would be at the mercy of their 
 heathen and Mohammedan neighbors. So what 
 seemed a movement full of promise, failed. 
 Many others were on the point of embracing 
 Christianity in that region, and no doubt would 
 have done so if we could have properly cared for 
 them. 
 
 We had a number of schools that we superin- 
 tended for Mr. J. C. MacDonald, the officer of 
 Government in charge of that district. Mr. Mac- 
 Donald was a nephew of Sir Henry Ramsay, and 
 
222 TWHNTY-ON^ YljARS IN InDIA. 
 
 was a most excellent Government officer, and did 
 a great deal to improve the condition of the peo- 
 ple of the Tarai. Dr. Dease and myself rendered 
 him" what help we could in caring for the schools 
 and dispensaries located at different points for 
 the advantage of the people. We have every rea- 
 son to think that our efforts were appreciated, 
 both by Mr. MacDonald and the people them- 
 selves. He was a warm friend of us both, and 
 was most ready to help us in every way in our 
 work. He died in middle life from diseases con- 
 tracted in this sickly country. His was a noble 
 devotion to duty. He did, in fact, give his life 
 for the people he presided over as a Government 
 servant. I often thought of him as an example 
 to me, and earnestly sought grace that I might 
 be as faithful in caring for the souls of the peo- 
 ple as he was in caring for their worldly interests. 
 This closed my third period of service, and, 
 with many regrets, I felt it necessary to return to 
 the United States, regarding it probable that my 
 work was done in India. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 The Hindu People. 
 
 The: last census, that of 1901, makes the pop- 
 ulation of India to be 294,382,676. Of these 
 there are 207,147,023 Hindus, and 62,458,077 
 Mohammedans. These are the people with whom 
 we have to do chiefly in Upper India, where our 
 Missions were originally located. 
 
 The importance of a thorough knowledge of 
 the people to a missionary, and, in fact, to any 
 who would approach them understandingly, with 
 a purpose of gaining an influence over them and 
 doing them good, can not by any means be over- 
 estimated. Therefore, I propose to insert a chap- 
 ter on both these classes, and I trust my long and 
 intimate acquaintance with these people may be 
 considered a sufficient apology for any seeming 
 lack of unity in the plan of this work. 
 
 It seems that the Hindus are, like ourselves, 
 
 223 
 
224 Twi^NTY-ONi: Yi:aRS IN InDIA. 
 
 of Aryan origin, and, from what we can gather, 
 they came from some place in Persia and entered 
 India by way of the passes to the northwest, and 
 settled somewhere to the north of Delhi, in what 
 is now known as the Pan jab, about 2,000 years 
 B. C. They were a noble race, large, well-formed, 
 thoughtful, and intelligent. They were an agri- 
 cultural people, and kept flocks and herds. They 
 had a decided religious tendency, and worshiped 
 one Supreme Deity. The relations of the family 
 were known and valued, woman was accorded 
 her rightful position, early marriages were dis- 
 credited, there were no idols among them at this 
 period. They had their priests who were their 
 religious teachers, and were respected and looked 
 up to as such. Their sacred books are called 
 Vedas, from Vid, to know, and are four in num- 
 ber. The first of these, the Rig- Veda, is com- 
 posed of hymns used in worship. The Vedic 
 period of Hindu history dates from about the 
 fourteenth century B. C, and extends to the time 
 of Manu, in about the seventh or eighth century 
 B. C. The Vedas were not reduced to writing 
 
Twi:nty-oni: Ye:ars in India. 225 
 
 until somewhat later than the fourteenth century ; 
 but were in use orally before that. They recog- 
 nized one Supreme Being, but the elements of na- 
 ture they regarded as manifestation of Him. 
 Indra was the god of rain, Agni the god of fire, 
 Surya the sun, Ushas the dawn. They seemed 
 to have been greatly impressed by natural phe- 
 nomena, and these manifestations were regarded 
 as inferior forms of the Deity. Along through 
 these centuries the Sanscrit ceased to be a spoken 
 language ; if it ever had been, it now ceased to be 
 generally understood. The priests alone knew 
 the mystic texts and sacred rites. An error in 
 pronunciation might prove the destruction of the 
 worshiper. All this worked for the elevation of 
 the Brahmins, and gradually they grew into a 
 caste, into which no one could enter who was not 
 of priestly descent. The Code of Manu was evi- 
 dently the work of the Brahmins, and it was so 
 constructed as to work for their supremacy. 
 
 Then followed the period of philosophy and 
 ritualism. There are three systems of philoso- 
 phy: First, the Nyaya, which may be denomi- 
 15 
 
2^6 TwKNTY-ONi: Years in India. 
 
 nated as theistic; second, the Sankhya, which is 
 atheistic; the third, the Vedanta, which is pan- 
 theistic. It had now become a period of specu- 
 lation and rituahsm. Nothing is real, all is Maya, 
 or illusion ; a shadow or a dream ; God is all, and 
 all is God. 
 
 While speculation was thus busy, sacerdotal- 
 ism was continually strengthening its hold upon 
 the people. The Brahmin had made himself in- 
 dispensable in all sacred rites ; he alone could pro- 
 nounce the words of awful mystery and power on 
 which depended all weal or woe. On all occa- 
 sions the priest must be called in and implicitly 
 obeyed. Never was sacerdotalism more complete 
 or more arrogant and tyrannical. Then came in 
 the system of caste, stereotyping the existing or- 
 der, declaring against all change, and making it a 
 sacred institution. Form is now declared to be 
 more important than doctrine or the gods them- 
 selves. Covering this period of ritualism are the 
 six Shasters. Then covering the period of mod- 
 ern Hinduism are the eighteen Puranas. 
 
 Along with pantheism came in polytheism 
 
TwENTY-ONK Ykars in India. 237 
 
 and the doctrine of transmigration. Hinduism is 
 a strange medley of these systems. It has ab- 
 sorbed into itself the local deities and demons of 
 the Animistic races. Indeed, it has absorbed 
 every system of belief it has come in contact with. 
 Buddhism arose as a protest against the arro- 
 gance and corruptions of Brahminism, and when 
 they failed to overcome this system by force, they 
 resorted to their usual artifice, and incorporated 
 Buddha into their pantheon and made him the 
 ninth incarnation of Vishnu. 
 
 Brahminism has, however, never for one mo- 
 ment failed to maintain its claim to supremacy, 
 and the sternest restrictions of caste. Men may 
 do what they like, believe what they please; as 
 long as they observe these two things, they are 
 regarded good Hindus. Macaulay said of Brah- 
 minism: "All is hideous and grotesque and ig- 
 noble. The thirty-three gods of Vedic times have 
 been increased to three hundred and thirty-three 
 millions of gods. The vilest acts are unblush- 
 ingly ascribed to their gods. The very best of 
 them are impure, and some of them are vile be- 
 
228 TwElNTY-ONi: YKARS IN InDIA. 
 
 yond anything we can imagine even. Kalee is 
 a bloodthirsty demon, and yet multitudes worship 
 her to-day. The whole system is impure and cor- 
 rupt beyond description. The gods are liars and 
 impure ; why should the people be anything else ? 
 You can not expect the people to be better than 
 the gods they worship." The whole system of 
 Brahminism is corrupt and hideous. I have seen 
 things with my own eyes in Naini Tal, right 
 alongside a high form of Christian civilization, 
 that I could not speak of. I have witnessed things 
 in their temples so vile and impure that they can 
 not be spoken of. I have come in very close con- 
 tact with the people, not only as a missionary, 
 but as a medical man, and I know how very cor- 
 rupt the people are. 
 
 I do not charge it so much against the people 
 as against the system. It is dreadful to think of 
 what Hindu mothers teach their children of the 
 doings of their gods. Some people in these days 
 are talking about the beautiful things they find 
 in the Brahminical system. It is beautiful to see 
 young women married to the gods in the temples, 
 and the worship of the 'linga" is beautiful as al- 
 
Twenty-one: Years in India. 229 
 
 legory. I have only to say all this shows what 
 poor mortals we are and how easily duped. These 
 young women are common characters and bring 
 gain to the Brahmins as the price of their vile- 
 ness. The beautiful things of Brahminism are 
 indeed Maya and illusion. 
 
 The heathen are wickedj they are sunken in 
 fearful depths of sin. This is the fact; and only 
 the Gospel of the Son of God can save them. 
 That can do it, as we know; we have seen it 
 save them and make them pure, good, and lovely. 
 A very superior native gentleman, highly edu- 
 cated, and holding a high position in one of the 
 departments of the medical service of the Gov- 
 ernment, was at one time much exercised on the 
 subject of religion, and he met me with this state- 
 ment, as I urged the claims of Christ upon him : 
 "It is impossible for me to live a pure life. I 
 will not be a hypocrite." The Hindus are to me 
 an interesting people; I can make allowance for 
 them ; we could not expect anything better of 
 them when we consider the system under which 
 they are reared. 
 
^30 Twe:nty-on^ Ye:ars in India. 
 
 The most prominent and characteristic institu- 
 tion of Hinduism, other than Brahminism, is 
 caste. The power of caste is as irrational as it is 
 unbounded. The touch, even the shadow, of a 
 low caste man pollutes the man of caste preten- 
 sions. The high caste man honors and worships 
 a cow, but shrinks from the touch of a man of 
 low caste. It is a terrible system, holding men 
 in bondage worse than African slavery. Its whole 
 tendency is to divide and separate men and make 
 them regardless of each other's welfare. It 
 makes them indifferent to the needs and suffer- 
 ings of others. 
 
 The higher classes are polished in their man- 
 ners, have quick active minds, and are fond of 
 learning, as a rule. Very many are seeking edu- 
 cation, but the great mass of the people are ex- 
 ceedingly poor and ignorant. Their ideas of sin 
 and righteousness are totally different from ours. 
 Their religious duties chiefly consist of repeating 
 the name of a god, or offering a brief sentence of 
 prayer, bathing, observing the rules of caste, mak- 
 ing the required offerings to the Brahmins, or at 
 the temple. No sense of moral obligation seems 
 
Twi:nty-one Years in India. 231 
 
 to enter into the thought of a Hindu. If he seeks 
 to propitiate his god, it is that he may do him no 
 
 harm. 
 
 I do not think that the Hindus are naturally 
 cruel or hard-hearted, more than others; but they 
 are selfish no doubt, and indifferent to the wants 
 of others ; their system makes them so. Woman 
 is assigned an inferior position, but she is by no 
 means always kept in it. The case of widows is 
 extremely hard ; many of them are mere children, 
 and are denied everything calculated to brighten 
 the life of a child. Early marriages are also one 
 of the abuses of Hindu society. The age of con- 
 sent has now been raised to twelve years. 
 
 They are intensely conservative and proud of 
 their religion, and very unwilling to relinquish it. 
 It is very much against their feelings to receive 
 their religion from foreigners. The Arya Samajh 
 is an effort to reform Hinduism by restoring the 
 authority of the Vedas. The Brahmo Samajh is 
 also a kind of compromise, accepting some things 
 from the Christian religion and retaining the best 
 of their own system. 
 
233 TwKNTY-ON^ Ye:ARS IN InDIA. 
 
 They have but little enterprise in business pur- 
 suits, and are content to follow in paths already 
 made. They have but little public spirit, and less 
 of what we call patriotism. I am inclined to 
 think, however, that this is growing on the whole. 
 
 They do not lack mental activity, but they do 
 lack in character, in breadth of view and firmness 
 of grasp, and self-reliance in cases of unexpected 
 emergency. They lack versatility and originality. 
 They are clever copyists and clerks rather than 
 originators and masters. They seem utterly to 
 lack the inventive faculty. The higher classes 
 are given to speculative thought, all enshrouded 
 in a blind fatality. The lower classes are ig- 
 norant and inclined to indifference. As you min- 
 gle with them you hear much of "kismat ke bat," 
 that is fate. They meet reverses stoically ; "it is my 
 fate," they say. Large numbers are now becom- 
 ing Christians, especially from the lower classes- 
 Some of our native Christians are filling high and 
 responsible positions. All classes among the 
 Hindus, I think, have a very high conception of 
 the character pf ou,r blessed Lord. 
 
CLASS OF CHRISTIAN GIRLS. 
 
 One C.cneratidii from Heat hcni^ni. 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 The Mohammedans of India. 
 
 I HAVi: stated in a former chapter that the 
 last census makes the Moslem population of India 
 62,458,077, which is nearly one-third of the pop- 
 ulation of the whole Mohammedan world. They 
 are very numerous in Upper India, especially in 
 the cities and larger towns. As they were the 
 rulers of the country for nearly six hundred 
 years, until the British period began in 1757, they 
 naturally have a good deal of influence and power 
 still. As a class they are much improved from 
 what they were a hundred and fifty years ago, 
 when they first came under British rule. 
 
 Mohammed was born in Mecca, in Arabia, in 
 the year 569. At the age of forty he claimed to 
 have been commissioned of God as a prophet, and 
 that his mission was to convert the world to the 
 true faith. He soon gained proselytes, raised an 
 
 233 
 
234 Twknty-one: Yi:ars in India. 
 
 army of Arabs for the subjugation of the world. 
 The career of conquest was begun by Mohammed 
 himself soon after his flight to Medina in 622, 
 and was carried on with great vigor by his suc- 
 cessors, so that province after province, and coun- 
 try after country, were overcome in rapid suc- 
 cession. The purpose was to establish by the 
 sword a universal empire, in which there should 
 be one prophet and one religion. The Moham- 
 medans were from the first violent opposers of 
 all idolatry. Their creed was summed up in these 
 sententious words: * 'There is one God, and Mo- 
 hammed is his prophet." Every country or city 
 they overcame was required to embrace the faith 
 of Islam and pay tribute. In case of refusal the 
 men were put to death, the women and children 
 were reduced to slavery. It is said that the fol- 
 lowers of the prophet overcame Persia, Egypt, 
 and Spain in two or three campaigns ; but it was 
 nearly three centuries after the first invasion be- 
 fore they were able to gain any substantial foot- 
 ing in India. There had been several invasions 
 of the country by the Mohammedans before their 
 
Twe:nty-on^ Ye:ars in India. 235 
 
 supremacy became established, which dates from 
 1206 A. D., the time of Kootub-ud-deen, who was 
 the first to occupy Delhi as the seat of Moslem 
 power. A celebrated monument of his reign ex- 
 ists in the Kutub-Minar, one of the most beauti- 
 ful shafts in the world, two hundred and thirty- 
 seven feet high, about twelve miles out in what 
 is known as old Delhi. 
 
 The most remarkable of all the Mohammedan 
 dynasties that arose was that of the Moguls. 
 The Moguls were a tribe of Tartars who roamed 
 with their flocks through Central Asia as far as 
 the Chinese wall. Genghis Khan was their leader. 
 Many of them had come into India with the lead- 
 ers of different invasions, and remained in it. 
 Baber was the founder of this dynasty. His 
 reign began in 1526. He was succeeded by his 
 son, Humayun, and he again by Akhbar, who 
 was, without all doubt, the greatest and best ruler 
 India ever had among the Mohammedans. He 
 was succeeded by Jehanghir, and he by Shah 
 Jehan, and he again by Aurungzebe, during whose 
 reign it became evident that the Mogul power had 
 
;336 TwKNTY-ONi: Yi:ARS IN InDIA. 
 
 entered upon a period of decay. Strife and cor- 
 ruption at court, disorganization in the camp, 
 and general and widespread discontent among the 
 people on account of the imposition of the jezzia, 
 a poll-tax, levied by Mohammedans on all subject 
 to them, and excessive taxes on the land, indi- 
 cate clearly that the process of decline had set in. 
 
 Thirty-six years later, Nadir Shah, king of 
 Persia, invaded India. During his occupancy of 
 the city of Delhi one of the most dreadful massa- 
 cres took place that is known in history. For two 
 days the streets ran with blood. No country in 
 the world has suffered more from invasions than 
 India. This was the last. A little more than a 
 score of years brings us to the end of the period 
 of Mohammedan supremacy in India, and the be- 
 ginning of the Christian period of her history, a 
 period in which the country has enjoyed the bless- 
 ings of peace and security as never before. 
 
 The kings of the Mohammedan period were 
 generally corrupt and almost constantly engaged 
 in wars to extend their dominions or to spread 
 the Mohammedan faith. They gave little atten- 
 
TwKNTY-ONK Years in India. 237 
 
 tion to the improvement of the country or to the 
 needs of the common people. They cared but Ht- 
 tle for them except to plunder them. There was 
 scant protection for life and property. In those 
 days many Hindus were forced to become Mo- 
 hammedans. These rulers, with few exceptions, 
 were cruel and utterly unprincipled, caring liter- 
 ally nothing for the prosperity and happiness of 
 their people. Perhaps Baber, Akhbar, and Shah 
 Jehan may be regarded as exceptions. There is 
 very little, indeed, to be found in the Moslem 
 period that commends it to the enlightened judg- 
 ment of the present day. 
 
 The Mohammedans are a vigorous, self-as- 
 serting people, inclined to look with contempt 
 upon others, and to be intolerant, vindictive, and 
 immoral. Their system is bad and can but tend 
 to immorality. 
 
 They look and appear much like the Hindus ; 
 to one who is strange to the country, they are dis- 
 tinguished with some difficulty. There are some 
 slight differences in dress ; their houses are much 
 like those of their Hindu neighbors; they live 
 
238 TwKnty-one: Yi:ars in India. 
 
 together on the same streets, and their style of 
 living is in many respects similar. Their food is 
 much like the Hindu's, with the exception that 
 they use meat as an article of diet, while the 
 Hindus abhor it. They have no caste ; but living 
 in close contact as they do with the Hindus, they 
 are much influenced by them as to their customs, 
 more than they themselves often realize. In 
 many Moslem countries they will readily eat with 
 Christians, but in India they will very seldom do 
 this. The arrangement of society with them is 
 much less complex than that of the Hindus. 
 Through Upper India, they usually observe a 
 fourfold classification, into Sayad, Mogul, Pa- 
 than, and Sheikh. The Sayads are the most hon- 
 ored of the four, as they claim descent from the 
 prophet himself. The Moguls are, as the name 
 implies, descendants from the Tartar conquerors 
 of India. They are less numerous than the other 
 divisions, and in some cases still preserve a 
 marked Turanian type of countenance. They are 
 generally known by the title of Beg affixed to 
 their names, and often use the prefix Mir, or 
 Mirza, from Amirzada^ son of a noble. 
 
TwKNTY-ONK Years in India. 239 
 
 The Pathans are of Afghan origin, and dis- 
 tinguish themselves by the title Khan, which they 
 affix to their name. 
 
 Sheikh is more common. Any one who does 
 not belong to either of the classes before named, 
 is, or may be, called a Sheikh. Those who be- 
 come converts from Hinduism usually take this 
 title, and from having been used so commonly it 
 has long since ceased to have any special mean- 
 ing or value. 
 
 The Mohammedans are divided into two 
 great divisions, the Sunnis and the Shias, and 
 to these may be added two others nearly as im- 
 portant — the Wahabis and Sufis. 
 
 First, the Sunnis are regarded as the orthodox 
 party. They accept Abu Bekr, Omar, and 0th- 
 man, as well as Ali, as legitimate successors of 
 the prophet. They hold to tradition, and by it 
 neutralize some particulars in Mohammedan law 
 that are of an objectionable nature, affirming that 
 Mohammed himself repealed them, though they 
 are still in the Koran. They are divided Into four 
 great sects, the Hanlfs, Shafts, Mallkis, and Ham- 
 balls. 
 
240 Twe:nty-oni: Ykars in India. 
 
 Second, the Shias regard Ali, the husband of 
 Fatimah, the prophet's daughter, as the true suc- 
 cessor of Mohammed, and that Abu Bekr, Omar, 
 and Othman were impostors or usurpers. They 
 hold to traditions, and the twelve Imams, begin- 
 ning with Ali, and ending with Abu Kasmi, the 
 Madhi, who, they claim, is still living, and that he 
 will yet appear and lead them in the conquest of 
 the world. This belief is seemingly dying out 
 since their disappointment in regard to the so- 
 called Madhi of the Soudan some years ago. 
 They observe the commemoration of the Imams, 
 Ali, Hassan, and Hussain at the Moharram with 
 great enthusiasm. The Persians are usually 
 Shias, while Turkey is the stronghold of the Sun- 
 nis, and this accounts for the bitter antagonism 
 between the Turks and Persians. 
 
 Third, the Wahabis are a very fanatical and 
 bigoted class, a very dangerous element in the 
 political interests of the countries where they are 
 numerous. 
 
 The fourth class, the Sufis, are not very 
 numerous, but they have great influence in some 
 
TwKNTY-ONK Years in India. 341 
 
 places. Their creed seems to be a mixture of 
 Mohammedanism and Pantheism. 
 
 Mohammed in his early Hfe seems to have 
 been a sincere seeker after truth, and gave prom- 
 ise of becoming a great rehgious reformer; but 
 it is doubtful if he was what he appeared to be. 
 It is certain that soon after the Hegira he threw 
 off the mask and assumed his true character as an 
 impostor and hypocrite. He resorted to the sword 
 to spread his doctrines; he declared war, made 
 treaties and broke them, encouraged assassina- 
 tions, and ordered general massacres on the as- 
 sumed authority of a revelation from God. In 
 his private life he gave way to his baser passions 
 and answered criticism by pretended revelations 
 from heaven. There can be no question but that 
 during his last years he became corrupt, vindic- 
 tive, and cruel. 
 
 The Mohammedan system has in it some 
 truth, but it is mixed with much that is base and 
 corrupt. They believe in one God, and are bit- 
 ter opponents of all forms of idolatry. They re- 
 ject the doctrine of the Trinity, but admit that 
 16 
 
242 Twi:nty-onk Y^ars in India. 
 
 our Lord was a prophet. They deny that he was 
 put to death on the cross. They have no atone- 
 ment, they believe in a heaven of voluptuous and 
 sensual joys, and in a hell for all infidels. They 
 believe in angels good and bad, and are great 
 fatalists. They admit the Divine origin of our 
 Holy Scriptures, but say we have corrupted them. 
 
 The Moslems of India are in most respects in 
 advance of those in most, if not all, other coun- 
 tries. This is owing to their close contact with 
 Christianity in India. The Government is Chris- 
 tian, and for nearly a hundred years has been open 
 to missionary effort. 
 
 Every missionary in Upper India comes di- 
 rectly in contact with them while pursuing his 
 work. In the cities they form a part of every con- 
 gregation he addresses. A portion of the scholars 
 in every mission school are from this class of 
 people. They have come in close contact with 
 all our evangelizing methods for many years, and 
 it has had its influence upon them. They were 
 quick to see that they must avail themselves of the 
 advantages of education offered by Government 
 
Twknty-one: Ye:ars in India. 243 
 
 and by missionaries, or they would be left behind 
 by their Hindu neighbors in securing positions 
 of honor and emolument offered by Government, 
 and by business establishments in the present day. 
 They saw that they must not depend upon their 
 system of education in Arabic and Persian and 
 the Koran, but that they must acquire the English 
 language, and become acquainted with geography, 
 history, and mathematics, if they would anything 
 like hold their own. The consequence is that we 
 have a constantly growing class of educated and 
 advanced men who are not satisfied with the old 
 order of things. They see the great disadvantage 
 at which the doctrines of Islam appear, placed 
 alongside the teachings of our Lord Jesus, and 
 they are beginning to demand reforms. They 
 are coming to understand that their polygamy, 
 concubinage, and seclusion of women must be 
 abandoned. Great changes are evidently passing 
 over the Moslem population of India. They are 
 investigating the grounds of their faith in 
 the Koran and the general teachings of Mo- 
 hammed with a thoroughness and fairness never 
 
244 TwDnty-one: Ye:ars in India. 
 
 shown before. They are considering the claims 
 of Christianity in a far better spirit than they 
 have shown in former days. The work among 
 them in India is very hopeful of great results in 
 the near future. A fair proportion of converts in 
 our native Christian Church have come from 
 among the Mohammedan population. A consid- 
 erable number of the very ablest ministers in the 
 native Church have come from these people. 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Again Pastor of the Naini Tal Church. 
 
 In 1894 I again went out to India, after an 
 absence of ten years, and much to my surprise was 
 appointed to Naini Tal. Dr. Waugh had been in 
 charge of the native work and was now desiring 
 to return home on leave, so I took over charge of 
 the native work from him, and at the same time 
 I was to relieve Mr. Stuntz of the care of the 
 English Church. Mr. Stuntz was principal of 
 Oak Openings Boys' High School, and the care 
 of this institution taxed him to the utmost, and 
 he felt that he must be relieved of a portion of 
 his work. Immediately after Conference he was 
 taken ill, which proved so serious that he was 
 obliged to return to the United States. I had ex- 
 pected to have his assistance in conducting the 
 services of the English Church, but now the whole 
 of it fell on me. I was much disappointed in this, 
 
 245 
 
246 Twi:nTy-one: Years in India. 
 
 as I had anticipated great pleasure in being asso- 
 ciated with him in this work. 
 
 I now propose to explain, as well as I can, the 
 exact situation of this department of our work. 
 It is not easy for people here at home to under- 
 stand just the condition in India, particularly in 
 regard to English work, and not the interest is 
 felt in it, it has seemed to me, that its impor- 
 tance demands. It was now ten years since I made 
 over charge of this Church to the Rev. James 
 Baume, who came out to relieve me so that I 
 might enter native work. Of course, in this 
 period, many changes had taken place. Sir Henry 
 Ramsay had retired and returned to England and 
 had passed away. Mr. MacDonald had died. 
 James Eraser had gone to New Zealand. Many 
 others had died or gone home to England. Most 
 Europeans in our part of India are in Govern- 
 ment service in one form or another. The regu- 
 lations of the service require them to retire at a 
 comparatively early age, when they usually re- 
 turn to England to spend their declining years. 
 Very few indeed make India their home after 
 
Twenty-one Years in India. 247 
 
 their term of service has ended. This makes Eng- 
 lish society very changeable, especially in a place 
 like Naini Tal. This being a summer resort, peo- 
 ple were coming and going continually ; our con- 
 gregation not only changed from year to year, 
 but it changed a good deal in course of a single 
 season. We would have many during the latter 
 part of the season that we did not have during 
 the first part of it, and some that we had at the 
 beginning we would not have at its close. The 
 Government allows a month of leave a year to 
 most in its service. This may be saved up, and 
 three months taken every third year. Many do 
 this way, and so have three months in the hills 
 at a time. This, some take the first half of the 
 hot season, others take the last half; the hot sea- 
 son continues about six months. So the congre- 
 gation changes a good deal about the middle of 
 the hot season. This feature of our English work 
 has its disadvantages, of course, but the circum- 
 stances are peculiar In India, and these must be 
 considered. I have always felt it to be of the 
 greatest importance to keep a warm religious at- 
 
24^ Tw]^nTy-onk Yi:ars in India. 
 
 mosphere at a great center of influence like Naini 
 Tal. People would come from distant and iso- 
 lated places, where for many months at a time 
 they would have no religious privileges whatever, 
 so far as Church going is concerned. In some 
 cases people so situated would become indifferent 
 as regards Church going, but generally English 
 people are pleased to attend Church when such 
 privileges are afforded them. Many who are se- 
 cluded feel it very much, and long to hear God's 
 Holy Word preached. In all the years I have 
 had charge of our English Church in Naini Tal, 
 I have tried to make our services helpful to all, 
 not by any means forgetting these cases. I have 
 often had assurances of appreciation of our serv- 
 ices by those who were far away, and many years 
 afterward. A Christian man's influence in India 
 is multiplied sevenfold beyond what it is at home, 
 under all ordinary circumstances. So it may be 
 seen how important it is that those who bear the 
 name of Christ should be Christians indeed. The 
 sentiment expressed in Charles Wesley's hymn 
 
TwKNTY-ON^ Years in India. 249 
 
 No. 805, in our Hymnal, has a meaning in India 
 that to me it has never had elsewhere. 
 
 "We for Christ our Master stand 
 Lights in a benighted land: 
 We our dying Lord confess ; 
 We are Jesus' witnesses." 
 
 It is this that makes our English work in a 
 place like Naini Tal so very important; it reacts 
 with such peculiar force upon our native work. 
 Every European life in India is a power for good 
 or evil in influence»upon the natives. This is one 
 of the great obstacles in our way that does much 
 to hinder the progress of the work — the irrelig- 
 ious lives of many Europeans — the people see. 
 
 A few years ago the headquarters of the Ben- 
 gal army were located at Naini Tal. This brought 
 quite a considerable number of superior young 
 men to Naini Tal as permanent residents, who 
 were employed in the various offices. Many of 
 these are members of our congregation. There 
 are a few soldiers every year in the place who 
 choose our Church as their place of worship. For 
 
250 Twenty-one: Ye:ars in India. 
 
 each of these the Government pays into the funds 
 of the Church one rupee a month. There are a 
 number of famihes engaged in business who come 
 up regularly every season and carry on their busi- 
 ness in Naini Tal during the hot weather, and go 
 to some station in the plains for the same pur- 
 pose during the cold season. These families come 
 to Naini Tal early in April, and go down to the 
 plains in October. There are a few families who 
 live permanently at Naini Tal. Then we have 
 our boarding-schools, Wellesley for girls, and 
 Oak Openings for boys. These, with the teach- 
 ers, attend one of the services at the church on 
 Sunday. The evening service at five o'clock is 
 most largely attended. Our church seats about 
 three hundred, and during the season it is well 
 filled at the evening service, and a more inspiring 
 congregation it has never been my privilege to 
 preach to. Many missionaries are with us from 
 time to time for a few weeks during the season, 
 from almost every part of India. I have at dif- 
 ferent times spent about sixteen years in Naini 
 
TwKNTY-ON^ YkarS in InDIA. 25 1 
 
 Tal ; for fourteen years I have had charge of the 
 EngHsh congregation. It has always been a de- 
 Hght to serve this Church. In a pastorate ex- 
 tending over many years at home and abroad, I 
 can say that my last term of five years with this 
 congregation was the most delightful of my life. 
 The most perfect harmony prevailed, and a spirit 
 of enthusiasm in work for Christ that was most 
 encouraging and inspiring. It was our custom 
 to observe the first week in June as a season for 
 special revival services, and we often had seasons 
 of great refreshing. In one of these seasons sixty 
 or more of our young people started in the service 
 of Christ. The memory of those dear people will 
 ever remain with me, and I shall never cease to 
 pray that from among them some may arise who 
 will go forth as apostles to India's unsaved mill- 
 ions. 
 
 I have spoken of our schools in a former chap- 
 ter, and have tried to show their importance to 
 our work. This I am sure can not be overesti- 
 mated. These young people are sure to occupy 
 
^5^ Tw^NTY-ONi: Yi:ARS IN InDIA. 
 
 positions of responsibility in the future where 
 they can do much to help the cause of Christ, if 
 they become earnest living Christians. I hope to 
 furnish some illustrations showing the fine school 
 buildings of Wellesley. Through Miss Easton's 
 able management the whole magnificent school 
 property is clear of debt. It is in every way thor- 
 oughly well equipped for school purposes. Two 
 valuable dwelling houses are owned by the school, 
 outside, for rental ; these are free of debt and form 
 a basis for an endowment fund. In addition they 
 have a beautiful property about fifteen miles away 
 down at the foot of the mountains for a winter 
 home, and that furnishes fruit and vegetables for 
 the use of the school. This school has a truly 
 magnificent property, and no school in India 
 stands higher educationally. Oak Openings, too, 
 has a bright future before it under the vigorous 
 management of Dr. J. C. Butcher. Rev. Mr. 
 Craven, now of Evanston, 111., built a fine busi- 
 ness block, which he designed, when paid for, to 
 form an endowment for Oak Openings School. 
 
Twe:nty-one: Ye:ars in India. 253 
 
 While I was there we formed a company, took 
 over the building with its debts, and are now try- 
 ing to pay for it. When once this is done and 
 the debt removed from the Oak Openings estate, 
 the school will be put on a splendid footing. If 
 some one could be found who would give them 
 twenty thousand dollars, I can think of no place 
 where this amount of money could be put that 
 would be sure of yielding so large a return in 
 the way of good. 
 
 In the first illustration may be seen our com- 
 modious school building, with its fine tower and 
 clock, for native boys. This was built by Mr. 
 Craven also, and is a worthy monument of his wis- 
 dom and energy. This is the oldest school in our 
 entire mission, and has done a grand work for the 
 native community of Naini Tal. There are but 
 few of the permanent residents who have not at 
 some time been pupils in this school, and they are 
 generally firm friends of the Mission, and very 
 favorably disposed towards Christianity. I firmly 
 believe the time will come when much fruit will 
 
254 TwE^NTY-ONK Ye:ars in India. 
 
 be gathered from the seed sown through this 
 school. The services of the native Church are 
 held in the old Church, or Mission Chapel, the 
 first one built by us in India. This Church has 
 a pastor of its own, a fine Sunday-school, and a 
 good congregation during the season. 
 
 In these days there does not seem to be as 
 much done in direct evangelistic work among 
 heathen natives as there was years ago. At that 
 time the number of native Christians was small, 
 but now, as it has increased, it has brought special 
 cares along with it, so that the time of the work- 
 ers has been largely taken up with caring for 
 those who have become Christians or are desiring 
 to become such. It is very manifest that God is 
 ready to give us the people as fast as we are able 
 to care for them. It is absolutely necessary that 
 those who are received into the Church should 
 be instructed, otherwise the Church of the future 
 will be but little better than the heathen them- 
 selves. This is a burning question at the present 
 time in our work in India. It is claimed that 
 
TwKnty-one: Ydars in India. 255 
 
 more than a hundred thousand people are ask- 
 ing admission into the Christian Church in India 
 at the present time. Can we imagine what that 
 means — the responsibihty it carries with it? We 
 may put these people off for a time, but it is at- 
 tended with much risk to our work to do this. 
 
 The curtailment of our work from year to 
 year for some years past has been attended with 
 many unhappy consequences, and has caused 
 much embarrassment. We decline to baptize peo- 
 ple because we can not provide teachers for them. 
 It is hardly possible for them to comprehend this. 
 They see how we dress and live, and not unnat- 
 urally they think we can do anything we desire to 
 do. It is not strange they come to think that we 
 do not care for them, and if their patience is taxed 
 too long they may turn against us and hinder 
 others from coming to us. I am thankful to say 
 that our prospects are brightening in the field. 
 The increase of our funds last year, and a pros- 
 pect of a larger increase this year, are inspiring 
 hope in the minds of our missionaries. I can re- 
 
256 Tw^NTY-ON^ Yi^ARS IN InDIA. 
 
 member when every door seemed closed against 
 us, and how hard we labored to open them ; now^ 
 it seems every door is open, and we are entreated 
 to enter, but we dare not for lack of funds to sus- 
 tain the work. 
 
 The period of my service extends through 
 forty-three years, from 1857 to 1900. This is 
 divided into nearly equal parts between my home 
 Conference and India. That my service in the 
 Mission should have been so broken in upon is a 
 matter of much regret; but unavoidable circum- 
 stances seemed to make it necessary. 
 
 In all my absence from the field I was not an 
 occasion of expense to the Missionary Society; 
 but for one year. 
 
 I spent twenty-one years in India. Counting 
 journeyings to and from, and furloughs allowed, 
 my service would count much more. 
 
 Age and broken health seemed now to make it 
 best for me to return home, and after forty-nine 
 years in the active ministry, at home and abroad, 
 to seek to be relieved from the duties of the effect- 
 ive relation. 
 
TwE)NTY-ONK Ye:aRS IN InDIA. 257 
 
 I have had many regrets since returning in 
 1900 that I did not arrange to spend my decHn- 
 ing years in India. I might have done much to 
 aid the work in many ways, I think, even though 
 I could not have done full work. 
 
 I desire to express the deep sense of gratitude 
 I shall ever cherish to our Missionary Board, and 
 to the Secretaries, for the many kindnesses re- 
 ceived during the years of my connection with 
 them. 
 
 17 
 
CHAPTER XVL 
 A Call to This \A/'ork. 
 
 I AM not quite willing to conclude this account 
 of my personal connection with this great work 
 without a few words to young people who are 
 contemplating the possibility of engaging in this 
 work. I regard it the greatest and most glorious 
 work to which young men and women can conse- 
 crate their lives. The call has never been more 
 urgent than now. Hundreds will be sent out in 
 the near future where scores only have hitherto 
 been sent. The world is not yet won for Christ, 
 though much has been done and great achieve- 
 ments realized ; but yet much remains to be done. 
 In fact, the work is but little more than fairly 
 begun. 
 
 The Madras Missionary Conference, in April 
 last, made the statement that at present there is 
 in India only one missionary to every 150,000 
 
 258 
 
Twi:nty-one: Years in India. 259 
 
 people, and it is urged that the number be in- 
 creased so that there ma}^ be at least one mission- 
 ary to every 50,000. This would require that 
 twice as many be sent out as there are are now 
 in India. 
 
 Closely connected with the subject of a call to 
 this work, is that of obligation to give the Gospel 
 to every creature. Christ said, *'Go ye therefore, 
 and teach all nations, baptizing them in the name 
 of the Father, and the Son, and the Holy Spirit; 
 teaching them to observe all things whatsoever I 
 command you ; and, lo, I am with you alway, even 
 unto the end of the world." 
 
 It would seem that this must settle the ques- 
 tion of obligation in the mind of every loyal dis- 
 ciple of Christ. The command is too clear to 
 admit of any doubt. No conditions are inter- 
 posed ; it is not, Go if convenient, if you feel dis- 
 posed to go, or if everything favors. Nor does 
 He say, Go if you are wanted, if the people invite 
 you and are waiting to receive your message; 
 but because they need the Gospel and Christ bids 
 you carry it to them in all haste. The command 
 
26o Twe:nty-one Ykars in India. 
 
 is general, and is binding upon all. All may do 
 something to extend the kingdom of Christ, and 
 obligation is equal to ability. 
 
 The fact that we can not do as much as some 
 others is no reason for not doing what we can. 
 The little we can do is important and essential, 
 as well as the greater things others may do. 
 Whatever we do for Christ in the true spirit of a 
 disciple, be it little or much, will be accepted and 
 will not fail of its reward. Not every one can 
 go in person, but we can go or help others to go. 
 Christ was himself a missionary. His Church 
 must be a missionary Church to the end of time. 
 It has been successful in the past only as the mis- 
 sionary fire has glowed upon its altars; it will 
 only be so in the future as this condition is ob- 
 served. There is such a thing as apostolic suc- 
 cession. The true succession is in the spirit, not 
 in the letter. It was made solemnly binding upon 
 the apostles and their successors to the end of 
 time to give the Gospel to every creature. 
 
 So long as there is one human being in any 
 place on this wide earth that has not heard the 
 
Tw^NTY-ON^ Years in India. 261 
 
 glad tidings of salvation, this obligation will con- 
 tinue binding upon us as the disciples of Christ. 
 We live in a grand time — the best the world has 
 ever seen. More has been done for the spread 
 of the Gospel during the century just past than 
 in the whole Christian era before it ; and who can 
 doubt that we are on the eve of far greater 
 things than ever before witnessed ? The world is 
 being stirred as never before. It may be in oppo- 
 sition, as seemed to be the case a little while ago 
 in China, but be it so ; this is better than apathy, 
 though it is now generally believed that this re- 
 cent outburst of wrath was rather anti-foreigner 
 than anti-Christian. Such seasons of seeming 
 defeat indicate that great triumphs are near at 
 hand. It was so with the great sepoy mutiny in 
 India in 1857, when it seemed that everything 
 belonging to Christianity must inevitably be swept 
 away, but it was not. On the contrary, in the end 
 it put the country far ahead, and Christianity took 
 a firmer hold and progressed as it otherwise would 
 not have done. It will be so in China. I may say 
 rather, it is already evidently so. These convul- 
 
263 Twe:nty-onk Years in India. 
 
 sions are but the birth pangs of a nev/ and better 
 era for the world and for the cause of Christ. 
 The blood of the martyrs has been in every age 
 the seed of the Church. God rules, and persecu- 
 tions and wars are overruled for the furtherance 
 of righteousness in the world. It would be a mis- 
 take for any one to go out without a conviction 
 that he is really called to this work, as such a 
 conviction is necessary to sustain one in it. Some 
 may say it is a question of expediency, or prefer- 
 ence, only. Some say this in regard to the work 
 of the ministry, but it is a low view to take of it. 
 We believe the Lord chooses his ministers, and 
 lays upon them the obligation to preach the Gos- 
 pel. The necessity is laid upon them, and they 
 are made to feel that they must go for- 
 ward in this work. The call to be a 
 missionary may not be just like a call to the 
 sacred ministry in all of its aspects, but it is 
 similar in some of its features at least. In a 
 sense it is true that God calls us to every kind of 
 work in his vineyard. "The steps of a good man 
 are ordered of the Lord." "And thine ears shall 
 
Twi:nty-one: Years in India. 263 
 
 hear a word behind thee saying, This is the way, 
 walk ye in it, when ye turn to the right or to the 
 left." (Isa. XXX, 21.) Certainly it is reasonable 
 to suppose that there would be a somewhat special 
 call to a great special service like this. As a mat- 
 ter of fact, I have never known a successful mis- 
 sionary who did not feel that God as certainly 
 called him to this work as he did to the ministry. 
 The impression will be made upon the mind by the 
 Holy Spirit in some way that we are called to it. 
 This impression will be so strong, as a rule, that 
 it can not well be removed. I firmly believe God 
 as certainly calls women to this work as he does 
 men. It is one of the wonders of the age what 
 women are doing for Christ. In addition to the 
 impression made upon the mind, other things 
 must confirm and sustain it. There must be good 
 firm health, with no special tendency to disease 
 of any kind. One must have good natural abil- 
 ities and at least fair attainments. I think special 
 stress should be laid upon the importance of good 
 judgment and tact, ability to master foreign lan- 
 guages, and to utilize strange environments. The 
 
264 Twe:nty-one: Ykars in India. 
 
 importance of these things can not be overesti- 
 mated. One must know human nature, and how 
 to adapt one's self to it. We must know the peo- 
 ple to whom we go, have sympathy with them, 
 appreciate their feelings and difficulties, and be 
 able to see things as they see them. We can never 
 win the people to Christ only as we win them to 
 ourselves first, and to this end we must gain their 
 confidence, and we can only do this by convincing 
 them that we know how things appear to them. 
 Knowledge of human nature, sanctified common 
 sense, are indispensable qualities to make a suc- 
 cessful missionary. The highest literary attain- 
 ments, while not absolutely necessary in every 
 case, will find ample scope for their fullest exer- 
 cise. It will be greatly to the advantage of any 
 one going out to India particularly, to have spent 
 some time with one who has had experience in 
 the field. It would save him from many mis- 
 takes and mortifications. I think it is a mistake 
 to send young people out, in these days, ignorant 
 of everything they need to know about the coun- 
 tries and people to which they go. It would be 
 
TwDNTY-ON^ Ye:aRS in InDIA. 265 
 
 better for them to have a year or two for special 
 study of the languages, history, customs, and 
 habits of the people to which they go. There are 
 facilities now for preparation of this kind which 
 we did not have in former days. There are ex- 
 cellent institutions now for such study, where 
 every facility is offered young people in this spe- 
 cial line. 
 
 Some think it better not to begin the study of 
 the language until arriving upon the ground, but 
 I think it is wise to begin at once, if possible; 
 study anything and everything that will be likely 
 to increase one's efficiency in the work. Many 
 years ago, Dr. Durbin sent to me, to study the 
 language while waiting, a young man who was 
 under appointment to India, but could not leave 
 for his field for some months. It so happened that 
 some months later we went out to India together. 
 We went the long route around the Cape, and 
 when we arrived in India, to his great delight, he 
 found he was ready to enter upon active work, 
 greatly to the advantage of the Mission at the 
 time. This was Dr. Hoskins, who, after almost 
 
266 Twknty-one: Yi:ars in India. 
 
 twoscore years of remarkable, useful, and suc- 
 cessful work for Christ in Cawnpore, suddenly 
 passed from his work on earth to his reward in 
 heaven, a few months ago. 
 
 It is taken for granted that a missionary must 
 have grace, a passion for souls, with stipreme loy- 
 alty to God and the Church that sends him out. 
 Without these qualities he will fail, whatever 
 other attainments he may have. What a glorious 
 opportunity presents itself to truly consecrated 
 young people, well equipped for the work. O, 
 may a great army of such be raised up and thrust 
 out into the field already white to the harvest ! 
 
 I will only add a few words as to my own 
 personal call to this work. My first distinct im- 
 pression of a personal call to missionary work 
 abroad was received in a missionary meeting held 
 in Lawrenceville, St. Lawrence County, N. Y., an 
 appointment on my first charge. It was on Sun- 
 day evening. Rev. Thomas Richey, who was a 
 pastor of an adjoining charge, had come to assist 
 me, and had just closed a very stirring address, 
 when the choir sang the hymn beginning, 
 
TwENTY-ONK Years in India. 267 
 
 " Ye Christian heralds, go, proclaim 
 Salvation in Immanuel's name ; 
 To distant climes the tidings bear, 
 And plant the Rose of Sharon there." 
 
 While singing this verse it suddenly flashed 
 over me that this was in some special way de- 
 signed for me, and that I would have some part 
 to take in this great work. The thought appalled 
 me, and I began to think of difficulties and dan- 
 gers to be encountered, and to say, "Impossible! I 
 am not good enough or brave enough for such a 
 great and glorious work." Then followed these 
 words : 
 
 " He '11 shield you with a wall of fire, 
 Your heart with holy zeal inspire ; 
 Bid raging winds their fury cease, 
 And calm the savage breast to peace." 
 
 I then and there surrendered myself to God 
 for this service. From that time I had no doubt 
 but that God had chosen me for this work, and 
 that in due time the way would be opened. Three 
 years later the call came from Dr. Durbin for two 
 young men for India. I responded to the call. 
 If I had a hundred lives I would gladly give them 
 all for that beautiful but dark land. 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 The Progress of Missionary "Work in India. 
 
 It is claimed that the Apostle Thomas visited 
 India to communicate the knowledge of our Lord 
 Jesus to the people of that country. This, how- 
 ever, is not well authenticated. A missionary 
 named Thomas lived and labored in some parts 
 of Southern India some centuries later, who is 
 said to have suffered martyrdom at St. Thome, a 
 suburb of Madras. It seems probable that these 
 have been confounded. 
 
 The Bishop of Alexandria, in response to an 
 
 appeal from India, sent out the learned Pantaenus 
 
 in about i8o A. D. It is not known how long he 
 
 remained, nor with what success he met, but he 
 
 suffered martyrdom in Alexandria in 211, and we 
 
 are told that after his return he presided over 
 
 the School of Catechists, which he left when he 
 
 went out. It is probable therefore that he did 
 
 268 
 
Twenty-one: Ye:ars in India. 269 
 
 not remain very long, and that no very marked 
 results followed his labors there. 
 
 About a century later a missionary named 
 Theophilus visited India, where he tells us that he 
 found Christianity already planted. In the fifth 
 century missionaries from the Syrian Church 
 came to India, and they still have a considerable 
 number of Churches and adherents on the south- 
 west coast of India. 
 
 Next came the Portuguese, or Roman Cath- 
 olic missionaries, who located on the southwest 
 coast, with Goa as their headquarters. Francis 
 Xavier gave these missions a great impulse in 
 1 54 1. His zeal and piety won the admiration of 
 all in a most corrupt and degenerate age, and soon 
 a manifest improvement took place among his 
 own countrymen in Goa, to whom he was espe- 
 cially sent. But he longed to work for the na- 
 tives, and so had the Apostles' Creed, the Lord's 
 Prayer, and the Ten Commandments translated 
 into the vernacular, and learned them by heart, 
 and then, with a bell in his hand, he went through 
 the villages repeating what he had learned. His 
 
270 TwKNTY-ONi: Yl^ARS IN InDIA. 
 
 words and gentle ways won many to him, and a 
 deep impression was made. The people of India 
 have the greatest reverence for what impresses 
 them as a holy character, and gentleness of man- 
 ner greatly attracts them. He wrote in his diary 
 at this time, "It often happens to me that my 
 hands fail through the fatigue of baptizing, for 
 I have baptized a whole village in a single day." 
 It is related that it was his custom, after repeating 
 an article of the Creed to ask them if they believed ; 
 then, on their assent, he baptized them. He added, 
 "Often by repeating so frequently the Creed and 
 other things my voice and strength have failed 
 me." We can but admire the zeal and devotion 
 of this remarkable man, but not his hasty and in- 
 discriminate baptisms, without making any pro- 
 vision for the instruction of those he baptized. 
 
 It is claimed that Roman Catholic mission- 
 aries traveled extensively through the country in 
 those early days. It is said that one of the wives 
 of the Mogul Emperor Akhbar was a Christian, 
 and that he invited some of the priests from Goa 
 to his court, and took great interest in discussions 
 between them and the Mohammedan moulvies. 
 
TwKNTY-ONK Years in India. 271 
 
 The first Protestant missions were begun un- 
 der the auspices of the king of Denmark. In 1621 
 the Danes obtained, from the Rajah of Tan j ore, 
 Tranquebar, and the country contiguous on the 
 southeastern coast of India. A httle later Seram- 
 pore was added to their possessions. In 1706 
 two devoted German Lutherans were sent out by 
 the king of Denmark, or under his patronage. 
 These were Ziegenbalg and Plutschau, who were 
 noble and most devoted missionaries, and consid- 
 erable success attended their labors. A few years 
 later they report several thousand Christians. In 
 1750 Christian Frederick Schwarz arrived in In- 
 dia, certainly one of the noblest missionaries of 
 modern times. He was revered and loved by all he 
 came in contact with. The Rajahs confided in 
 him when they would not trust others. Even 
 Hyder, the powerful foe of the English, received 
 Schwarz with distinguished consideration, and 
 evidently had great respect for his character. The 
 common people trusted him when they would not 
 trust their rulers. His was a most unselfish, holy, 
 and beautiful life, and most strikingly illustrates 
 
272 Twe:nty-oni: Yi:ars in India. 
 
 the power of goodness of heart and life. After 
 forty-seven years of loving and self-sacrificing 
 toil for Christ and the people of India, alike the 
 much loved and honored friend of rich and poor, 
 high and low, he passed to his reward with these 
 words upon his lips: "I commend my spirit into 
 Thy hands; cleanse and adorn it with the right- 
 eousness of my Redeemer, and receive it into the 
 arms of Thy mercy." 
 
 In 1792 the English Baptist Missionary So- 
 ciety was formed, the first of modern times, or of 
 all time, and William Carey was sent out as their 
 first missionary, and India was chosen as their 
 field. 
 
 In 1793, when the charter of the East India 
 Company came up for renewal, led by Wilber- 
 force, an effort was made to insert a resolution 
 permitting missionaries to live and labor in India ; 
 but it was so strongly opposed by the company 
 and its partisans that it failed. Carey went out in 
 1793, registering as an indigo planter in order 
 to gain admission to the country. In a few years 
 Ward and Marshman arrived, and Carey joined 
 
Tw^NTY-ONK Ykars in India. 273 
 
 them, and, with the permission of the king of Den- 
 mark, they founded a mission in Serampore, 
 which has become historic and venerable as one 
 of the early landmarks of the great missionary 
 enterprise of modern times. They translated the 
 Bible into many different languages; they under- 
 took to translate it into some of the languages of 
 China even. They opened schools and founded 
 a college, and did a vast amount of work, by which 
 they largely supported themselves. They lived 
 as one family and put their earnings into their 
 work. They merely allowed themselves a small 
 personal allowance over and above the cost of 
 their table expenses. This was for their clothes, 
 and it may be interesting to know just how much 
 they allowed themselves for this purpose. Mr. 
 Ward's allowance was rupees 20 per mensem, 
 which was equal to about $10 at that time. Mr. 
 Marshman's was rupees 30. Mr. Carey's was 
 rupees 50 a month, as he was professor of Sans- 
 crit at Fort William, and had to dress a little 
 better than others. His salary received from 
 Government was rupees 1,200 per month, which 
 18 
 
274 Twi:nty-one: Ye:ars in India. 
 
 all went into their work, with the exception of 
 the personal allowance before mentioned. 
 
 William Carey died on the 9th of June, 1834, 
 having gained high honors as a most devoted mis- 
 sionary and a distinguished Oriental scholar, hav- 
 ing been in India nearly forty years without hav- 
 ing once been out of it. 
 
 In 18 1 3 the charter of the East India Com- 
 pany was again before Parliament for renewal, 
 and under the pressure of public opinion the coun- 
 try was thrown open to free and unrestricted 
 missionary effort. 
 
 The London Missionary Society sent out their 
 first missionary in 1798. The Church Mission- 
 ary Society began its work about the same time. 
 The American Board began its work about this 
 time or in 1813. 
 
 The Church of Scotland began in 1830, and 
 sent out Rev. Alexander Duff as its first mission- 
 ary. Dr. Duff's arrival marks an important 
 period in educational work in India. His special 
 work was to establish a missionary college. At 
 that time Sanscrit, Persian, and Arabic were 
 
Twenty-one: Ye:ars in India. 275 
 
 taught in Government colleges in preference to 
 English. Dr. Duff held that English was ''the 
 best and amplest channel for speedily letting in 
 the full stream of European knowledge on the 
 mind of those who were destined to direct the na- 
 tional intellect and heart of India." 
 
 Dr. Duff's views were ably supported by Mr. 
 Macaulay, then legal member of the Governor- 
 General's Council. They were adopted by Lord 
 Bentinck himself, and a resolution was adopted by 
 Government on the subject, which gave a great 
 impulse to English education. The effect of this 
 movement has been highly beneficial. Sanscrit 
 contains a great deal that is false and demoraliz- 
 ing in its influence. Some one had said, ''The 
 more it is studied the more errors are acquired. 
 Pundits whose knowledge is confined to Sans- 
 crit are learned fools, the most bigoted portion of 
 the people and the greatest opponents of reform." 
 English literature is by no means without de- 
 fects, but it is infinitely better than the best to be 
 found in India. The importance of our educa- 
 tional work may, I think, be seen by remember- 
 
2"]^ Twe:nty-one: Ye:ars in India. 
 
 ing the condition of Hindu and Mohammedan 
 homes. The women of India are particularly 
 superstitious and ignorant, they teach their chil- 
 dren the stories of their gods in all their corrup- 
 tion. Imagine what the effect must be upon the 
 mind of a child, — no moral instruction whatever, 
 everything corrupting and debasing. Now we 
 get these children into our schools where they 
 are taught Christianity with its elevating and 
 wholesome moral truths, can any doubt that 
 the effect would be elevating in every way ? Our 
 schools are a great power for good, far greater 
 than one can imagine, who judges by common 
 standards known to us in this country. 
 
 I desire now to call attention to what has been 
 accomplished that may, in some measure at least, 
 be tabulated and shown by statistics. It should 
 not, however, be forgotten, that there must be 
 much that can not be shown by figures. 
 
 There are ordained missionaries in India 
 about 1,134; the wives of missionaries, 899; other 
 foreign helpers, mostly ladies, 1,304; thus mak- 
 ing a total of 3,337 foreign missionaries. Native 
 
TwKNTY-ONi: Ykars in India. 277 
 
 ordained pastors, 1,100; native catechists and 
 preachers, 7,179. The native force in India, 
 male and female, is about 23,011. At the close 
 of 1900 there were 5,362 organized congrega- 
 tions, 6,888 Sunday-schools enrolling 274,402 
 scholars. There are 8,285 day-schools with 342,- 
 114 scholars. There are 376 higher schools with 
 24,255 students in them. There are 89 male and 
 III female physicians in India, with over 300 
 hospitals and dispensaries, and treating nearly a 
 million and a quarter patients annually. There 
 are nearly three millions of Christians in India of 
 all classes. Native Christians, 2,664,313; ten 
 years before there were 2,036,590, showing an in- 
 crease in the decade of 627,723. In 1891 the 
 Protestants numbered 474,909. In 1901 the num- 
 ber has risen to 865,985. There are now all told 
 2,923,241 Christians in India, against 1,976,778 
 ten years before, showing an increase during the 
 decade of 946,463. This shows remarkable prog- 
 ress. The general increase of the whole popula- 
 tion from 1 89 1 to 1 90 1 was 2.4 per cent. The 
 Mohammedans increased 9 per cent^ the Roman 
 
^7^ Twe:nty-on^ Years in India. 
 
 Catholics increased i6 per cent, while the Prot- 
 estants increased during this period 82 per cent. 
 
 The Bible has been published in all the more 
 important languages and in many of the dialects. 
 A vast amount of Christian literature has been 
 published and is being circulated among the peo- 
 ple. There is a large educated class in India, 
 many of them educated in mission schools and 
 colleges, who know a great deal about Chris- 
 tianity and are now being drawn towards it. The 
 mass of the people know much more about Chris- 
 tianity than they did a few years ago. There is 
 a manifest improvement in the morals of the peo- 
 ple. They have higher conceptions of moral truth 
 than they did years ago. There is not as much 
 false swearing in the courts as there used to be. 
 The people seem to have a much higher concep- 
 tion of the sacredness of an oath than they did 
 in former years. 
 
 The Government has effected many important 
 reforms. Suttee, the burning of widows with the 
 dead body of their husbands, was abolished in 
 1829, when Lord Bentinck was Governor-General. 
 
Twe:nty-onk Years in India. 279 
 
 Infanticide and human sacrifices have been abol- 
 ished, so have hook swinging and many other cruel 
 rites. The condition of woman has been im- 
 proved in many ways; widows are permitted to 
 remarry. The age of consent has been raised to 
 twelve years. Caste is no doubt gradually relax- 
 ing its hold in many respects. The Brahmins are 
 losing their power over the people, and the belief 
 is becoming more or less general that the country 
 is to become a Christian country. The masses 
 are more favorably disposed towards Christianity 
 and Christians than they were formerly. There 
 is less bitterness manifest in these days when a 
 person of standing becomes a Christian. All 
 these things are signs of the times, and portend a 
 brighter and happier day for India. Much, how- 
 ever, yet remains to be done. There is a vast mass 
 of dark and cruel heathenism to be leavened yet 
 with Gospel truth. 
 
 We have, as a Church, five publishing-houses, 
 located at Lucknow, Calcutta, Madras, Bombay, 
 and vSingapore. From these are sent out a vast 
 
28o Twi:nty-oni: Ykars in India. 
 
 amount of literature for distribution through the 
 country. 
 
 Our educational system is thoroughly organ- 
 ized and very carefully administered. The Theo- 
 logical Seminary located at Bareilly for the edu- 
 cation of young men for the ministry. This is 
 indeed a noble institution, which has grown to its 
 present proportions under the wise and able ad- 
 ministration of Dr. T. J. Scott, assisted by Dr. 
 Dease and others. For many years Mrs. Scott 
 has conducted a school for the instruction of the 
 wives of the young men in the seminary, so that 
 they may be prepared to act with their husbands 
 as helpers in the work. 
 
 We have the Isabella Thoburn College for 
 young women located in Lucknow, and Reid 
 Christian College for young men. Both of these 
 are institutions giving great promise of future 
 usefulness. They are already a great power for 
 good in the country, but their usefulness will 
 greatly increase as the years go by. They are 
 splendid institutions and have a great future be- 
 fore them. 
 
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Twi:nty-oni: Years in India. 281 
 
 The work of the Woman's Missionary So- 
 ciety also has assumed large proportions and is 
 admirably administered in every particular. Their 
 work is conducted in close affinity with the Parent 
 Society, and yet is distinct. They have their Con- 
 ference, and their workers are supervised by the 
 presiding elders and receive their appointments 
 from the bishop as do others. The system is in 
 every sense admirable and works smoothly. Much 
 is due for our excellent system to Bishop Tho- 
 burn, of course, and to Bishop Parker and Miss 
 Thoburn. The last named have gone to their re- 
 ward, but their works remain to the great advan- 
 tage of the Mission of which they were shining 
 lights. I do not forget that others now living 
 have had an equally honorable part in adjusting 
 these great interests. I greatly admire our com- 
 pact and thoroughly systematic organization. It 
 was mine to have a part in this great work from 
 the very beginning, and I thank God that it is 
 given me now to see the vast proportions to which 
 the work has grown. 
 
 Forty-five years ago this very month of July 
 
282 TwENTY-ON^ Ye:ars in India. 
 
 our first convert was baptized. We now have 103,- 
 364 communicants and a Christian community of 
 146,547. We have 2,788 Sunday-schools with 
 123,737 pupils; educational institutions of all 
 grades, 1,245, with 35,438 scholars in attendance, 
 with a total of 4,320 Christian workers. We 
 have property to the value of nearly or quite two 
 millions of dollars. 
 
 If we could comprehend the full meaning of 
 these statistics it would fill our minds with grati- 
 tude for what He has done for us. But statistics 
 can not show all that God has wrought. They 
 do not show the number plucked as brands from 
 the burning, now shining among the angels of 
 God in heaven. 
 
 Nearly all who became Christians in the early 
 years of our Mission are now gone. Longevity 
 with them is not equal to what it is with us. It 
 is worth something to feel that we have helped 
 some of these redeemed souls into the kingdom, 
 and started them on their shining way. I hope 
 to meet them some day, a goodly throng, and 
 join them in the new song they sing, "Saying, 
 
TwKNTY-ONE Years in India. 283 
 
 Thou art worthy to take the Book and open the 
 seals thereof; for Thou wast slain, and hast re- 
 deemed us to God by Thy blood out of every kin- 
 dred, and tongue, and people, and nation; and 
 hast made us unto our God kings and priests ; and 
 we shall reign on the earth." 
 
man v/ 
 
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
 029 897 583 A