T 168 
 K5 
 opy 1 
 
 ELEMENTARY COURSE 
 
 IN 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING 
 
 FOR RURAL SCHOOLS 
 
 Price 
 Thirty-five Cents 
 
 COPYRIGHT APPLIED FOR 
 1916 
 
MANUAL TRAINING 
 
 FOR RURAL SCHOOLS 
 
 A. J. K1TTLESON 
 
 County Superintendent of Schools 
 
 Lac qui Parle County 
 
 Madison, Minn. 
 
 H. R. JONNING 
 
 Superintendent City Schools 
 
 Madison. Minn. 
 

 o*S 
 
 ©CLA445719 
 
 NOV 20 1916 
 
PREFACE 
 
 The present trend of education is to train the hand as well as the mind. 
 
 There is no question but that the study of the three "Rs" is as necessary and 
 vital today as ever. Close observers, however, have found that other studies can be 
 added that will make school work more interesting and practical without detracting 
 from the essentials. 
 
 Industrial studies are now firmly established in all progressive high schools and 
 many grade schools, and the movement is spreading to the rural schools as rapidly as 
 conditions permit. 
 
 The authors fully realize the difficulties with which the the average rural teacher 
 has to contend in teaching industrial subjects, and particularly manual training. Those 
 who are acquainted with rural conditions know, that the chief difficulties in present- 
 ing this subject are: First, lack of training on tne part of the teacher; secondly, poor 
 equipment for carrying on such work; thirdly, limited room and time and the lack of a 
 good, workable and easily understood text to direct the work. 
 
The chief fault with the average text in manual training is, that it is too techni- 
 cal, suited only for a well equipped shop with a trained instructor in charge. 
 
 The object of this little text is to present suitable work in manual training in 
 such a way, that it can be carried out in any rural school. The necessary equipment 
 (page 6) will fill all the requirements and can be procured with so small an outlay of 
 money that any district can afford it. The problems are simple, and the instruction so 
 clear that one of these texts placed in the hands of the pupil, with a little guidance on 
 the part of the teacher, will practically be all the help he needs. 
 
 The authors are indebted to the Manual Arts Press for use of the two drawings 
 showing the use of the plane, and to Gilbert Kaasa for preparing the drawings for the 
 engraver. 
 
 If this book will aid the rural teacher in making her effort in manual training 
 more effective and practical, the authors feel that their object has been attained. 
 
 -AUTHORS. 
 
TO THE TEACHER 
 
 You undoubtedly have a change in your daily program on Friday afternoons. In 
 a great many schools the period after recess is devoted to industrial work of some kind. 
 As a rule, the girls are given sewing which in most cases the teacher finds no difficulty 
 in supervising. Then the question arises what to give the boys to do. Why not try 
 manual training? It will solve the problem. 
 
 We believe that this text will help you introduce and carry out systematically a 
 course in this subject throughout the year. 
 
 The question of suitable equipment is the first to be met and solved. Many dis- 
 tricts readily see the value of this work and gladly furnish the necessary material using 
 the school funds for this purpose. In other cases, teachers raise the money by socials 
 or similar means. The tools listed on the following page are such as are usually found 
 on every farm, and may be loaned by the school as they are required. However, the 
 best way is for the school to own its equipment. Progressive teachers will find some 
 way of providing the means for doing a work that is now recognized as a practical and 
 vital branch of the modern rural school. 
 
RURAL SCHOOL MANUAL TRAINING 
 
 The following tools are all that are needed for making 
 the articles given in this book: 
 
 Cross Cut Saw (8 point). 
 
 Rip Saw (5% point). 
 
 Coping Saw. 
 
 Claw Hammer. 
 
 Jack Plane (15" long x 2%" blade). 
 
 Block Plane (6" long). 
 
 Chisels (f " 4" f ). 
 
 Brace. 
 
 Bits G" |" 1 / 2 " 2"). 
 
 Flat File (one side curved). 
 
 Try Square. 
 
 Ruler. 
 
 Jack Knife. 
 
 Screw Driver. 
 
 Oil Stone. 
 
 Back Saw. 
 
 Spoke Shave. 
 
 Marking Gauge. 
 
 
SUPPLIES 
 
 Sand Paper, Nos. 00, 0, %, 1. Wax (small quantity). 
 
 Stain and Varnish (small quantity). Screws: IV4" No. 9; 3 / 4 " No. 5. 
 
 Two Good Brushes. Brads: % ", 1", 1 7 4 \ 
 
 Nails: 6d box. 
 A serviceable work bench may be bought from school supply houses at a small 
 cost, or a carpenter may be hired to make one. 
 
 CARE AND USE OF TOOLS 
 
 A knowledge of the proper handling and care of the tools is necessary if the pu- 
 pil is to do good work. Each tool should have its own place, and should be kept there 
 when not in use. Tools should not be permitted to rust, but be kept bright and shiny. 
 Pupils should never be allowed to work with a dull tool. Often a work that has been 
 well started, has been spoiled by the action of a dull plane or chisel. It is suggested that 
 the teacher provide a temporary place for keeping the tools until a permanent rack, 
 cabinet or cupboard can be procured. 
 
CROSSCUT SAW 
 This tool is u sed to cut across the grain of the wood. In order to have the blade pass 
 through the cut made, the teeth are bent out or set, the amount of setting depending upon 
 whetherthe wood is dry or wet. Let the pupil observe the shape of the teeth and compare 
 with those of a rip saw. The number placed on the blade near the handle indicate the num- 
 ber of teeth per inch. An 8 point saw is the one generally used for all ordinary work. 
 
 The saw should be held at an angle of 45 degrees with the board, and should be 
 drawn easily and evenly both on the up and down stroke. The first few strokes should be 
 short, then gradually lengthened. Too much pressure should not be put on the down stroke. 
 
 Draw a line where a cut is to be made and follow it closely with the saw- 
 When it becomes necessary to have the saw re-set or sharpened, some one can undoubt- 
 edly be found in the district who is competent to do this work, and who will be glad to be 
 of service to the school to this extent. 
 
 
RIP SAW 
 The rip saw is used for cutting with the grain of the wood. The handling of this 
 tool is the same as that given for the crosscut saw. 
 
 COPING SAW 
 
 Used for cutting out designs and curves. 
 
JACK PLANE 
 This plane is used for removing large quantities of wood and for smoothening the 
 surface and edges of boards. It contains more parts than any other tool. Study these 
 parts so as to become familiar with their use and correct position. 
 
 There are two adjustments of the plane which the user should know. The first 
 adjustment is that of lowering or raising the blade to regulate the thickness of the shav- 
 ing. This is done by turning the thumb screw (A). The second is that of adjusting the 
 blade so that it will not cut deeper on one side than the other. This is done by moving 
 lever (B) either to the right or left. A little experimenting on the part of the pupil will 
 soon enable him to make the correct adjustments. Care should be taken that the cap 
 iron is placed about one-sixteenth of an inch above the cutting edge of the blade, other- 
 wise the, plane will not do smooth and even work. When all adjustments have been 
 made, turn the plane up side down with the toe towards you, hold it towards the light 
 
and sight along the bottom. Turn the thumb screw until the blade is just visible. This 
 adjustment will be found to be the proper one for ordinary work. 
 
 When using the plane, press down firmly with one hand on the knob and the other 
 on the handle. The plane should rest flat upon the wood throughout the entire length 
 of the piece, otherwise the result will be a rounding of the board at both ends, as shown 
 in the following figure. 
 
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 Whsn the plane is not in use, it should be laid on its side so that the edge is not 
 injured in any way. 
 
 This tool can not be used very long before it becomes necessary to sharpen it. 
 This is done by rubbing it on the oil stone. Two things should be borne in mind when 
 sharpening: First, see that the edge of the blade is square by testing with a try-square. 
 
Second, hold the blade evenly and on the right slant when rubbing on the oil stone as 
 shown in the following figure. 
 
 BLOCK PLANE 
 
 This tool is used for planing the ends of boards only. It has the same adjustments 
 as the jack plane with the exception that it has no cap iron. The beveled side of the 
 blade is placed up in this plane, while in the jack plane the beveled side is placed down. 
 
 Study accompanying figure carefully. Note that the plane is not carried entire- 
 ly across the end of the board, but should stop an inch or so before reaching the farther 
 edge. This will avoid chipping the farther corner. After a few strokes in one direction 
 reverse the board and proceed as before. 
 
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CHISEL 
 
 The chisel is used for cutting and paring, and should be kept sharp at all times. 
 The method of sharpening is the same as that of the plane blade. Care should be taken that 
 the proper bevel is kept and that the cutting edge is straight and square with the side. 
 
 BRACE 
 
 The brace is used for holding various sizes of bits. To insure making the hole 
 straight the bit must be held at right angle with the surface. This may be done by- 
 using a try square as shown in the following figure. 
 
 When making a hole through a piece of wood, the bit should not be forced clear through 
 from the face side, but only until the point is felt on the back side. Reverse the piece 
 and bore from the back side until completed. 
 
TRY-SQUARE 
 
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 The accuracy of all work in manual training depends upon the correct use of this 
 little tool. Its purposes are two fold: First, it is used for testing aboard to ascertain its 
 uniformity as to width or thickness throughout its whole length. Second, it is used to 
 test the end of a board to see that it is square with the edge. Before cutting a piece off 
 a board, the try-square should be used in marking the place where the cut is to be made. 
 
SANDPAPERING 
 Sandpaper is used to obtain the smooth surface of a finished product. It is num- 
 bered to show the degree of coarseness. No. 2 is the coarsest generally used, then fol- 
 low Nos. 1, %, 0, 00; the latter being very fine. For beginning the smoothening process, 
 use a paper about No. 1 and finish with No. h or 0, on pine wood. Sandpaper is bought 
 in sheets. Each sheet should be cut into four equal parts, and one of these used by 
 placing on a small piece of wood of right size. Never sandpaper across the grain, al- 
 ways with it. When using on a round surface, the sandpaper should be held in the hand. 
 Never use sandpaper on any of your work until all cutting and planing has been done. 
 
 VARNISHING AND STAINING 
 Not all articles need be varnished or stained. A nail box, for instance, might well 
 be left unvarnished, while an article like a plant stand or book rack should be stained. 
 Wood stain can be bought in all colors and easily applied. Care should, however, be tak- 
 en that both varnish and stain be applied in thin even coats with a soft brush. It is 
 suggested that two small brushes, but of good quality, be obtained for this purpose— one 
 for varnishing and one for staining. Sometimes a wax finish is preferable. Wax may be 
 bought in cans with full directions for use. It makes a cheap, long lasting and popular 
 finish. 
 
BEVELING 
 Several of the problems in this book require the making of a bevel. This is done by removing 
 a small portion of the surface and edge with the plane. Before using the plane, lines should be drawn 
 both on the surface and edge to indicate the amount to be removed. The size of the bevel will be 
 found on the drawing of each problem where required. Figure I shows the above mentioned lines 
 drawn on the square board; figure II the finished bevel. 
 
 PLANING 
 
 As it is not always possible to buy lumber of the exact thickness required for many of the prob- 
 lems, witill be necessary to buy a larger dimension and plane to required size. When doing this, it 
 is well from time to time to test your work by moving the blade of the try-square over the board, 
 holding it and the square toward the light to determine what parts must be removed to make the 
 surface even. 
 
EXPLANATION OF DRAWINGS 
 
 In order that the pupil may have a clear conception of each project, a drawing of the finished 
 product and also two or more views looking at the object from different positions are given. The 
 pupil should familiarize himself with the drawings before attempting the work. Where three views 
 are shown, one is the* top view, one the front and one the end; wherever two are given, they are the 
 front and end views. 
 
 The purpose of the first problem is to teach the pupil the great importance of being accurate 
 in measuring, planing and squaring. In manual training, no matter what the problem may be, the 
 result obtained will depend entirely upon accuracy. This subject should have as one of its aims the 
 forming of the habit of accuracy. 
 
PROBLEM I 
 PLANING AND SQUARING EXERCISE 
 
 For this exercise any odd piece of pine is given the pupil out of which he is to make a finished 
 product measuring exactly 5 /s" x 3 1 U" x 15 3 /s", with all corners and edges absolutely square. In this 
 and all succeeding problems, where the dimensions of the finished product are given, the pupil must 
 make his first cuttings a little larger than those required so as to make allowance for squaring and 
 planing to size. 
 
 For instance, in the given problem where the finished product is s /s" thick by 3 1 U" wide x 15 3 /s" 
 'ong, a piece of wood 3 A" by 34" by 15a" may be taken as the first cutting. From this the pupil shall, 
 by planing, obtain the required size. 
 
 The correct method of squaring next requires an explanation. 
 
Suppose Figure I represents the board mentioned on page 18. Sight along one edge, as A, to see 
 whether it is straight or where it must be planed to make it so. When edge A is straight, the next 
 step is to get ends C and D square with edge A. This is done by placing the beam of the 
 try square on A with the blade on end C, then D, to determine how much of the board to plane off 
 in order to make both ends square with the side A and at the same time have the required length 
 15 8 /s". All that now remains is to plane side B until the board is 3 l U" wide and also square with the 
 ends C and D. Before planing the ends read again the paragraph on block plane. 
 
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 If the pupil fails in the first attempt to get the required result he should try it again in order 
 that he may work faster and with more accuracy later. 
 

 
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PROBLEM II 
 MEAT CUTTING BOARD 
 Material: Maple or Birch. 
 One piece 1" x 9" x 14". 
 
 PROCEDURE 
 The only new work here is in making the rounded corners. This is done by measuring 1" from 
 D to B (figure on opposite page) and 1" from D to C; with try square draw lines to meet at A Us- 
 ing a steel compass, place the points at A and B and keeping point A stationary move point from B 
 to C. Remove the portion BDC with a SDoke shave and finish with fine sandpaper. 
 
 EXPLANATION OF LINES 
 In Figure B on the opposite page, the line Y (V) shows the thickness of the cutting bosrd It 
 will be noticed that the line M N found at the top of Figure A shows only one break and indicates 
 the width of the board to be 9 inches. The line F G shows three breaks, hence three different mea- 
 surements. The line marked 4" shows the width of the finished top, which is found by cutting off 
 two triangular pieces from the squared board. The lines marked 2A» indicates the distance to be 
 measured in from the edges, and the line X O (5") shows the distance down of the pieces to be cut off 
 to get the top completed. The line K L (14") shows the length of the board. The \" at the top of 
 the board indicates the size of hole, while |" shows its distance from the top. Lines indicating di- 
 mensions have arrow heads at either end. 
 

 
 
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PROBLEM III 
 
 COAT HANGER 
 
 Material: Pine. 
 
 One piece 8 A" x 2" x 18". 
 
 One screw hook. 
 
 PROCEDURE 
 
 Make a full size drawing of the finished product on the board. To do this and to get the correct 
 curves of the hanger, divide the edges B C and M N into six equal parts as shown on the drawings. 
 (Lines A are each 3 inches). At each of these division points, measure off the distances from both 
 edges as indicated. Lines drawn through these points will form the correct curve for the top and 
 bottom of the finished product. Cut out with a coping saw and finish with file and sandpaper. The 
 appearance of the hanger will be much improved by putting on a small bevel on the upper edge. 
 
 The part marked K is the end view of the hanger and shows the grain of the wood. 
 

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PROBLEM IV 
 HAMMER HANDLE 
 Material: Maple or Oak. 
 One piece 1" x 1 'Vie" x 13". 
 
 Make a full size drawing of the finished product on the piece from which it is to be made. Re- 
 move the necessary portions with a spoke shave and file. The dark portions A and B show the two 
 end views. Sandpaper thoroughly and finish by rubbing with oil. 
 
 PROBLEM V 
 WHISK BROOM HOLDER 
 
 Material: Pine. 
 Back: 1 piece : 7ie" x 5" x 8". 
 Front: 1 piece 8 /w" x 5" x 5". 
 Sides: 2 pieces s/s" x 1 1 U" x 5". 
 1" brads. 
 
 There is no new step involved in making this problem. It is quite likely that the material se- 
 cured for making this is much thicker than the finished product is to be, hence a great deal of plan- 
 ing is required. The pupil should read again the paragraph on page 16 for the correct method of 
 planing. Sandpaper and finish with stain and varnish or wax. 
 
 -25- 
 
BROOM HOLDER. 
 
PROBLEM VI 
 
 BROOM HOLDER 
 
 Material: Pine. 
 Back: 1 piece 8 A" x 3" x 10". 
 Holder: 1 piece 8 A" x 2 Va" x 6*". 
 Two 1 V-t" screws. 
 
 PROCEDURE 
 
 Back: The bevel is made by measuring 1 U" both on the surface and edge and removing with plane. 
 
 Holder: The Vs" R shown on the left corner, indicates a curve with a radius of l h". This is 
 obtained by measuring Va" in from both sides to get the point X (shown on right hand corner). 
 Draw the curve with a compass, and remove corner with a spoke shave. An extension bit is the best 
 tool for boring the hole (radius S U"). If, however, this tool is not included in your equipment and 
 can not be borrowed, the hole may be made by boring many smaller holes around the circle and 
 smoothen with a file. May be finished with stain and varnish or wax. 
 
PROBLEM VII 
 
 NAIL BOX 
 
 Material: Pine. 
 
 Bottom: 2 pieces W x 5 l k" x 15". 
 Sides: 2 pieces Va" x 3 Va" x 16". 
 Ends: 2 pieces Va" x 3 Va" x 11". 
 Middle-Partition: 1 piece Va" x 5" x 15" 
 Partitions: 4 pieces Va" x 3" x 51". 
 
 PROCEDURE 
 
 All material used in making this article should be Va" thick. This is obtained by using either Va" 
 lumber or by planing ; " material down to size. The making of this article involves only such work as 
 was done in Problem I. In making the opening in the middle partition, draw the line A B 5 /s" down 
 from the top and to points 5 Va" from either end. Placing the point of the |" bit on this line, bore the 
 entire length of the opening (5"), and finish with a file. 
 
 The two bottom pieces should be made first. Next get the sides ready and finally the parti- 
 tions. When all pieces are square and all similar pieces of the same size, sandpaper carefully. In 
 putting the box together, remember that the bottom is placed inside the sides and ends. Fasten to- 
 gether by using 1J" inch brads. 
 

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PROBLEM VIII 
 NECKTIE RACK 
 
 Material: Pine. 
 Back: 1 piece Vs" x 5" x 15". 
 Brackets: 2 pieces 3 /s" x 1 3 /s" x 4". 
 Cross Rod: 1 piece l h" x 1" x 135". 
 Two screw eyes for hanging rack. 
 Two brass screws 6 /s" long. 
 
 PROCEDURE 
 First make the back. This involves the work given in Problem I with the additional work of 
 making a bevel. (Read the paragraph on beveling on page 16.) 
 
 BRACKETS 
 
 Take the two pieces from which the brackets are to be made and get them exactly the same 
 size, 4" by l 3 /s". Next study carefully the drawing of the bracket on the opposite page. The part A B 
 is 1" wide. Point A is found by measuring 1" on line C D. At this point M draw a line across the 
 board, using the try square and mark point A. Measure 1" from A to B then with the back saw cut 
 along lines B I) and A C, V-t" from C D. The front strip is made as shown in the diagram. 
 
 The brackets are fastened to the back by driving three brads into each bracket from the back. 
 Notice how far in the brackets are placed and use the try square to see that they are square with top 
 and bottom edges. The cross piece is fastened to the brackets by using one brass screw. 
 
 The rack should be sandpapered with fine sandpaper before being put together, and should 
 then be stained some suitable color, and either waxed or varnished. 
 
BOOK HACK 
 
PROBLEM IX 
 
 HOOK RACK 
 
 Material: Pine or Oak. 
 Base: 1 piece 5 /s" x 6 lL i" x 15" 
 Ends: 2 pieces *k" x 0" x 6 * ■_>" 
 Four 1" brass screws. 
 
 I'Hoi'KDI'KK 
 
 The only new feature in this problem is fitting the base into the ends. Mark off two lines on 
 each end piece to indicate the cut where the grooves are to be made, the lower line i " from the bot- 
 tom. The lines are to be as far apart as the thickness of the base board. To insure a straight cut- 
 ting, it is advisable to place a straight board even with the pencil mark and letting the back saw rest 
 up against it. This pi-events any wabbling of the saw. Remove the part between the cuts with a 
 chisel, taking care to make the depth uniform ( 3 /s"). The end pieces will be more firm if they are 
 fastened to the base with two brass screws. The point C is found by measuring 15" up from the 
 bottom. Finish with sandpaper and stain with some dark color and varnish or wax. 
 
 The two small drawings found at the upper left hand corner show another method of fasten- 
 ing the end pieces to the base, which may be used if so desired. 
 
PROBLEM X. 
 SLEEVE BOARD 
 
 Material: Pine. 
 Top: 1 piece 3 /Y' x 5" x 25". 
 Bottom: 1 piece '"U" x 6" x I 
 Blocks: 2 pieces 3 U" x 4" x 7 
 Screws: 1 l U". 
 
 PROCEDURE 
 
 Draw a full size design of the top piece on the board from which it is to be cut and plane to size. 
 Blocks: Care must be taken that the two blocks are made so as to be exactly alike. In making the 
 curves, first bore a I" hole at the place indicated on the drawing. Remove the remaining part with 
 a back saw. Sandpaper and finish all parts, except the top, with shellac. 
 
PROBLEM XI 
 WALL SHELF 
 Material: Pine. 
 Top: 1 piece V x 6 l k" x 18". 
 Back: 1 piece i" x 7 l ■>" x 18". 
 Bracket: 1 piece \" x 5" x 6 Va". 
 Eight 1 V*" screws. 
 
 PROCEDURE 
 The top piece is a problem of squaring only. 
 
 Back: From the points A and B measure 11" along line A B. Placing the try square at the 
 points X and N, draw lines across the board to obtain the points C and D, then saw just outside the 
 lines A C and B D. Measuring 7J" from point C, mark a point as M. Here draw a half circle with a 
 radius of 2 inches. Cut just outside this line with the coping saw and smoothen with sandpaper. 
 
 Brackets: Take the piece 6 W x 5" and draw a line diagonally across it. Cut along this line 
 with the back saw. Having squared the sides A B and B C, measure off 3" from point A along A C 
 to get point H. Draw a half circle with a radius of 1! inches. Remove with coping saw. When all 
 parts are finished, sandpaper until smooth. 
 
 ASSEMBLING 
 First fasten the brackets to back 3" from the upper corner using two lk" screws put in from 
 the back, then the top to the bracket using two 1 V-t" screws in each bracket sinking them level 
 with the top. When all parts are put together correctly, stain and finish either with varnish or wax. 
 
PROBLEM XII. 
 TOWEL ROLLER 
 Material: Pine. 
 
 Back: 1 piece 8 A" x 5 5 /s" x 22 l ■•_>". 
 Brackets: 2 pieces |" x 2 5 s" x 4". 
 Roller: 1 piece 1 %" diarn. x 18 Vi". 
 
 PROCEDURE 
 
 Use a 8 A" bit to remove the part at either end of the back piece. 
 
 The pupil should meet with no difficulty in making the brackets, as all lines are straight and all 
 necessary measurements are shown. In making the hole for the roller pin, place a s U" bit at a point 
 1 Vs" inch down and 1 Vs"from the back; and bore to a depth of 8 /s". On the left bracket, a slit 3 /s" deep 
 is made for putting the roller in place. Draw lines to indicate the width of the slit and remove with a 
 chisel to a uniform depth of 'AT. Brackets are fastened to the back piece by using two 1 1 U" screws. 
 
 Roller: The making of this piece requires some careful work. It is made from a piece 1 V2" square 
 and 18 V-i" long. Begin the rounding process by planing down each edge so as to make a uniform eight 
 sided figure. Continue planing the edges until the piece is as nearly round as can be made with a 
 plane. Finish rounding by using coarse sandpaper. The pins at either end of the roller are i " diameter. 
 These are made by measuring in 3 /s" and sawing down evenly- to a depth of 3 /s". Remove with chisel 
 or knife and round with sandpaper. 
 
 Stain the back piece and brackets some dark color and wax or varnish. The roller should not 
 be stained but onlv varnished or waxed. 
 
PROBLEM XIII. 
 
 BIRD HOUSE 
 
 Material: Pine. 
 
 Bottom: 1 piece tya" x 8 Vs" x 11] 
 Sides: 2 pieces tys" x 6" x 10". 
 Ends: 2 pieces Va" x 6" x 9". 
 Top: 1 piece Va" x 6" x 11". 
 
 1 piece Va" x 5i" x 11". 
 Brads: 1J". 
 
 PROCEDURE 
 
 There is practically nothing new in the making of this problem. The pupil must be careful to have 
 each opposite piece exactly the same size and absolutely square. Use care in 
 fitting the top pieces, as it will be noticed that they over-lap each other. The 
 top edge of the side pieces must be planed to a correct slant so that the top will 
 rest on them evenly. In assembling the parts the sides come outside the ends. 
 
 It is suggested that the top be painted green and the remaining parts 
 white. Never use any conspicuous colors. 
 
 There are numerous rustic designs that are very attractive and easily 
 made. Note the design given here. 
 
PROBLEM XIV. 
 FOOT STOOL 
 
 Material: Pine or Oak. 
 Top: 1 piece :i U" x 9" x 16". 
 Ends: 2 pieces 8 A" x 9" x 8". 
 Sides: 2 pieces 8 V x 2 V2" x 15" 
 Two pieces :i -i" x 3 U" x 5". 
 Screws 1 'V. 
 
 PROCEDURE 
 
 The top may be beveled to the measurements shown, if so desired. 
 
 Draw lines to indicate the parts to be removed at the bottom of the end pieces. Using 1 /t" bit, 
 bore holes just inside the line, saw to depth and finish with file. Note that the side pieces are fitted 
 into the end pieces to the depth of l /i". At the middle point of each side piece, measure up 1 k". Draw 
 lines from this point to within 21" from lower corner, and remove the required part. Fasten the 
 side pieces to the ends by using two round headed screws. 
 
 The two pieces, *U" x *!*" x 5", mentioned in the bill of material, are to be used for fastening 
 top. Placing these pieces on the inner side even with the top edge of the end pieces, fasten securely 
 by using two 11" screws. The top is then fastened by putting two 11" screws through the small pieces 
 into the top. Stain some dark color and varnish. 
 
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