-K\!0> r- N THE I I'V i UJll -7 i f WHITE HILLS : P T?/ ■ 4-f DESTRUC nON OF THE WILLEY FAMILY ; August 28th, 1826. Samuel Willey, Jr.* was the second son of the late Samuel Willey, Esq. and was born on the 31st of March, 1788, in Conway, N. H. On the 17th of Sept. 1812, he married Patty Lovejoy, eldest daughter of the late Jere- miah Lovejoy of Conway, and settled in the town of Bartlett, as a farmer. In the summer of 1825, he purcliased a tavern stand, situated about two miles south of the Notch of the White Mountains ; and in October of the same year, moved his family there, consisting of his wife, five children, and a servant boy, for the purpose of keeping a public house. Such an estab- lishment was greatly needed at that place, on account of the exposure of the travellers in passing that mountainous region, especially in the boister- ous winter months. In June of the following year during a violent rain storm, two large slides came down from the mountain and crossed the road a little north of his house. This so alarmed the family that he erected a temporary camp on a ridge of land about eighty rods south of his dwelling ; as a place of refuge in case of the occurrence of a similar storm ; supposing the slides, if any sliould come, would follow the vallies, and that his little household would be secure from harm in this camp. Samuel, in conversing with a friend, a few days after the occurrence, in June, of this first slide, observed to him ' that although these slid:;.? moved down the mountains so slowly that a person in the day-time might avoid them, yet on account of the exposure of his buildings in their present loca- tion, he contemplated moving them at some future time to the place where he had erected his camp.' • We are indebted to the kindness and intelligence of a near relative of Mr. Willey for many ot the particulars of this melancholy disaster. 1 • 1^3 4 THE AVALANCHE But the probability is that as these were tlie first avalanches of any con- siderable niagiiitude or threatening aspect, which had happened there since the pass through the mountains had been discovered, and the road cut through, about seventy years since, he would ha\e concluded to remain where he was ; trusting that a similar event would never again occur. The narrative of the tragic scene whicli soon took place in this devoted valley, shews that had his house been on his camp-ground, it would with all its inmates have been swept away ; while on the other hand had the hapless family remained in the house ^vliero it was located, they would have been saved ; as a large rock in the rear of their dwelling resisted the avalanche, divided the torrent of sliding earth, rocks, trees and water, leaving the house and a few feet of earth in liont undisturbed. But not so was the will ol" Heaven. Their death has blended a gloom and terror with the sublimity of the scene. The future traveller to this spot, while he feels a weakness coming over him as he gazes up towards the heavens, and traces the hor- rible path of this disruption ; — while he remembers that a long storm of rain beat upon the overhanging brow of the mountain, and that heavy black clouds girdled it mid-way ; while his imagination draws the curtain of night over the hills and over the valley below, and he almost feels the awful gran- deur of that moment, when a long ridge of the dark ragged mountain loosened itself in the higher regions of the clouds, and rolled its devastations into the gulf beneath,— overwhelming as this must be to his senses, will yet regard it all with deeper and more awful emotions, by the vivid recollection that the wail of desjjair was in that storm, and the angel of death was at work, busied in this tumult of the elements. These hapless sufferers will never need marble to perpetuate their memories. This catastrophe may be always read on the rent-lace of the mountain a monument larger than the pyi'amids. CHAPTER II. The Storm. It was the stormy night of the 28th of August 1826. A comfortable fire blazed on the broad hearth of the humble farm-house of Samuel Willey, and the ruddy flame, and eddying smoke roared with a heavy sound up the deep throated chimney. Around the cheerful hearth was collected the whole household of the worthy farmer, consisting of his wife and five chikhen, and two hired men. A chill tempest tiom the mountains shook the doors and windows of the tenement, as if eager to gain admittance ; and the very house itself rocked and quaked in all its timbers, like a tempest-tost vessel, on the midnight sea. At the same time the unceasing rain poured its deluge on the roof that sheltered the inmates, and dashed in violent gusts against the frail walls of the building. A thousand leaping brooks and torrents Ibrmed by the accu- mulating deluge poured rapidly down the seams of the mountain sides, and some ot them took their boisterous way witliin a few feet of the door-way. OF THE WHITE HILLS. 5 But the party within as they listened to the howl and turmoil of the ra- ging elements abroad, gathered closer around the social hearth, as if seek- ing mutual encouragement and courage in each other's society, within reach of the cheerful blaze. The wife and children seemed to feel safe from all harm in the presence of the honest farmer, who strove by his cheerful voice and smile to sustain their drooping spirits ; but still, his wandering eye, as it glanced occasionally through the window, on the darkness of the storm that prevailed without, seemed to indicate that even his biave sj)irit was somewhat daunted, and that he trembled for the safety of the beloved group, that look- ed to him for protection, 'It is truly a dreadful night,' at length exclaimed the farmer, ' and I pray that no harm will befal us or our poor dwelling this night ; and I pray that no poor traveller is abroad on the mountain paths in this tempest of wind and rain ; and if any such there be, I fear deeply for their safety. The streams now must be swollen to an enormous extent, and the bridges swept away by the torrents ; and any benighted traveller, will stand in great peril if exposed in the storm and darkness. Did you either of you, Nicholson or Allen, notice any traveller on the mountain path during the day ?' The two men assured him they had seen no person abroad during the day, and expressed an opinion that there was at that moment no person abroad exposed to the pitiless storm of the night. The kind-hearted farmer rejoiced at this information, and seemed to be- come more cheerful than before. At the same time however, he hastened to place a lamp before the window as a Iieacon-light to any passing traveller through the gloom, remarking that it might seiTe as a guide to some unfor- tunate wanderer of the night. ' I think,' continued he, ' that we are in perfect safety in this house, unless the storm greatly increases in violence ; and if it does so continue to aug- ment, and we hear any slides of earth and rocks down the mountain sides, similar to those that took place last June, I think it will be prudent for us all to leave this house to-night, and take refuge in the Camp-house, which I have lately erected; which is less exposed to the mountain-slides, than this place we now inhabit. What is your opinion David ?' The two men both expressed a belief that there was no immediate dan- ger to be apprehended from the storm, and that they might remain where they were in complete security for the present ; but if the storm should con- tinue to increase in violence, they united in recommending an escape to the camp. The fears of the children being now quieted by the renewed cheerfulness of their father, they united in begging that he would now entertain them, and while away the stormj^ hours of the night by the recital of some pleas- ing tale tor then- instruction and amusement. 'Listen, dear father!' cries little Ehza, the eldest of the children, 'hark! how the rough wind roars up the chimney and whistles through the chinks of the door ; and hear how the lashing rain pours against the casement. I shall begin to think that there are evil spirits abroad in the darkness of the night, and that they are howling to destroy us, unless you will consent to ^muse us with some pleasing tale. Will you not relate to us, in what man- our Notch through the Hills was first discovered. You promised to give us the story, on some leisure evening, and no time can be better than the present.' ' Yes, my children,' said the kind father, ' I will now relate to you the tale, as it was told me; but you must promise to be quiet and give me no in- terruption. But first heap on more fuel on the blaze, for my feet are both wet and cold, in wading just now over to the camp, and many a stream did I pa-^.s through on the way, where nothing but the green grass and the dry 6 THE AVALANCHE foot-path exi.^.ed but yesterday. But 1 found the camp all right and safe, al- though well deluged \Yith the rain. But now listen quietly to my stoiy. CHAPTER III. The Discovery ok the Notch of the White Hills. ' For very many years, my children, no passage across these mountains, Avas known to the early settlers ; and those persons wishing to pass them were obliged to make a long circuitous journey of many weary miles. Still many people contended that a i)racticable route must probably exist some- where in the mountain chain, and many attempts were made to discover it, but all in vain ; and at length the attempt was utterly abandoned. But at length, many years ago, when the wild beasts of the chase were very abundant, and the liunters were often successfully -engaged in the pur- suit of the bear and the deer, which frequented these mountain solitudes; a large party of men were earnestly employed in hunting for deer in this neigh- borhood. Tins party had been out in the wilderness for many long days, but had met with but little success. During the time, tliey were ex})osed to all the inclemencies of the weather, and suffered greatly from the bitter blast and the drenching rain. They had no Avarm and comtbrtable roof to shelter them, such as this that now stretches its protecting sliield over our heads ; but only enjoyed the imperfect shelter afforded by a rude structui-e of pine and hemlock branches, under which they were glad to creep, to seek such protection as they might there obtain from the cold and storms of the night. When the drift wood, and decayed and fallen branches of the forest were not thoroughly soaked with the rains, they could succeed in kindling a merry blaze, sucli as this we now enjoy ; and so warm their benumbed limbs, and broil upon its embers the wild game they had succeeded in taking. At length they began to despair of the chase, and it was proposed that thfey should abandon it and return to tlie settlements; when they unexpect- edly came upon the fresh tracks of a herd of deer, whicli they had been pur- suing, but had managed to elude them in the pathless thickets of the woods. But they were bo!(l and resolute fellows, and had insensibly followed the chase, many miles from home, they knew not how far or whither, but were reluctaiit to abandon it altogether, and return em])ty-handed to their distant homes, to encounter the jeers and laughter of their acquaintance. At length one of their number, less resolute than the rest, became verj' anxious and uneasy, and proposed to his companions that they should give up the hunt and return without delay, ' for,' said he, 'I hear such a fearful growiing of the bears in the distance, that my courage fairly fails me, and 1 think that the sooner we find our way out of these lonesome and gloomy forests the better ; for we are more likely to be slain ourselves by the bears and otlier savage creatures, than ourselves to prey upon them.' ' No, no ! not so !' exclaimed another of the party; 'we are all well armed and what have w^e to fear ? Here w'e have travelled over the mountains in pursuit of our game for many days, and how silly should we appear to our friends in the village, if we should now weakly abandon the chase, at the very time when we have again fallen upon the track of our game. Let us then not become disheartened by any idle apprehensions, but gallantly fol- low the hunt, and then return to our friends loaded with the spoil. So, ariae OF THE WHITE HILLS. 7 and follow n)e all you who would prove yourselves brave men, and let the cowards meanly sneak l)ack again to the settlements. Here lies the foot- tracks of the deer, as plainly marked out as tlie wagon-road through our vil- lage-' fjpon the word, each bold hunter sprang to his feet, and brandishing hia trusty rifle in his grasp, followed their leader in the track of the iligitives. Tlie party had not proceeded far on the way, before they suddenly cair.e upon this rugged gap in the mountains, which lias ever since been known by the name of the " Notch of the White Hills." In this wild and difficult pass, stood the whole flock of deer, hemmed hi on all sides, and unable to escape in any direction. They could not advanc-i forward, for the path was obstructed by rocks, fallen trees, &c., which have since been removed, and a practicable road opened. On the right hand and on the left of the poor creatures, the rugged moun- tains rose upwai'ds boldly and precipitously over their heads and efiFectually debarred their escape ; nor could they reti'acc their steps, tor the numerous band of hunters, with their glittering rifles, formed a living barrier to their retreat, more formidable even than the rocky walls of nature itself. In that Avild spot then were they taken, and ibr several minutes did the wild passes of the hills continue for the first time to re-echo to the sharp re- ports of the deadly rifle, and the bold sound of the human voice. In a very short period the whole herd of deer were slaughtered by the hunters ; and then it was that they discovered that the flying herd had led them to a spot, that with a little labor in removing obstructions, formed a very tolerable road across the mountains. By this accident then, my children, was discovered the best road now in use, to conduct tj-avcllers from Lancaster to Bartlett, over Cherry Mountain. It was no more than an act of justice in the Legislative grant of a gener- ous tract of laud to these bold adventurers, as a reward for their valuable discovery. Indeed, no other route could have been found within a wide circuit of some sixty miles, except this narrow Notch through the hills, so fortunately made known to us by these poor affrighted animals, who paid with their lives for the discoveiy. And if the wild spot seemed so impassable and ter- rific at that moment to the wild animal and the hardy hunter, how vastly more formidable must the place appear to the unaccustomed eyes of the modern city traveller. CHAPTER IV. The Visit of the Benighted Traveller to the Scene. The good man having concluded his story, received the thanks of his at- tentive listeners. He had gained his object in amusing their anxious nunds, and Ju pleasantly beguiling an otherwise dreary hour. But he was not free himself from a load of anxiety, that weighed heavily on his mind. He had often been told that the immense rocks and loose ground of the mountain sides aliove him, might become gradually detached from their beds, by the powerful action of a deluge of water, and sliding down the mountain, bear with them in their resistless course, every object that might lie in their way. And though he had almost persuaded himself that nothing less than a powerful convulsion of nature, the occurrence of an eaj-thquake itself, could 8 THE AVALANCHE remove these immense nuisses, so formidable did they appear ; yet now as he perceived that the dehige of rain continued hourly to increase in violence, and lliat streams of water, seemed to pour around his humble dwelluig al- most with the roar and vehemence of rivers ; his heart began to fail within him, and he detsply feared lor the satety of tlie dear objects of affection, committed to his charge, and looking confidently to him for counsel and protection. The evening was now far advanced, and the children seemed entirely overcome with sleep and weariness. The good farmer after glancing again at the uproar of the elements without, decided that the time had not yet ar- rived for the al)andonment of their dwelling, and a flight to their place of refuge in the camp ; juid he thereupon recommended tliat the whole house- hold should retire to their beds, while he himself should keep a vigilant watch— assuring them all that if any immediate and pressing danger should seem to threaten them, that lie would instantly arouse them and conduct their retreat to the temporary camp. The })oor children were comfortably placed in their little beds, and their anxious mother threw herself by theh* side, well nigh overcome with terror and anxiety. It is not probable that the flight of this unfortunate family was long de- layed ; but at what hour of the night, they arose in haste to flee towards their place of imaginary refuge ; and at what hour the whole hapless household, consisting of nine human beings, were ovenvhelmed by the descending avalanche of rocks, earth and water, is now, and always will be wi-apped in a cloud of doubt and mystery, until the revelations of the last great day shall reveal all things to light. Never again were they seen in life by mortal eyes ; but their mangled re- mains, after the lapse of a few brief hours, were disinterred from beneath an accumulated mass of earth, rock.s, liillen trees, and water. In tha midst of the darkness and storm of that tempestuous night, a lone- ly traveller, named Barker reached the deserted house of Samuel Willey. This man afterwards stated that he on the niglit of the disaster, staid at the house of Ethan A. Crawford, about seven miles beyond the Notch-house ; that during the next day, by the aid of Mr. Crawford, he crossed the Am- monusuck river, and by great exertions jairsued his way over rocks, mud and broken bridges, (the road being destroyed,) and at length reached the liouse of Mr. Willey. The faithful doi;- of Mr. W. met him at the door, and for a time prevt^nted his entrance. But by soothing words to him, he at length succeeded in gaining admission ; and to his great astonishment he found tliat all the doors were flung wide open, and not a human being re- mained in the house. He first entered a comfortable kitchen, where a fire was still blazing on the hearth. Around the walls were suspended many articles intended for winter cheer lor the inmates, and for benighted travel- lers. Sti'ings of dried apples, crooked-necked squashes, and bunches of In- dian corn, and other seeds preserved for the following spring-tim", ^vere ar- ranged along the walls. But no living object greeted his eye, save the poor dog that had met him at the door, and a cat that quietly slept on the hearth. All wore the stillness and desolation of death about the house ; and the poor traveller's heart sank within him as he contemplated the forsaken hearth, and the deserted room. But at lengtli he cheered himself with the hope that the affrighted fixmily had fled to the dwelling of Mr. Abel Crawford, six miles below, where they were probably comfortably established in perfect safety. He then threw additional fuel upon the still burning embers, and having thereby warmed his benumbed limbs, he refreshed himself with such food as he found in tlie pantry. He then passed into an inner apartment where he found evident traces of the hasty flight of the devoted family. The OF THE WHITE HILLS. ^^ beds were in disorder, and garments of various descriptions were strewed in confusion about tiie floor. Tiie little cradle of the infant was empty, and the garments of children were strewed around, seeming to prove that so hasty was their flight, that no time was allowed them to cover themselves with their comfortable clothing. He then began to have fears for the safety of the family ; and that none survived to tell the tale of their danger ; that they were all buried alive under overwhelming masses of earth and stone. That nine of them in number, frightened from their beds, and running for their lives to what they thought would be a place of greater security, met death in his most appalling terrors, Avlfiie they fondly hoped they were escaping from his fury. The mountains fell upon them and hid them forever from the light of life. The traveller hearing groans proceeding apparently from the stable, looked around tor a lantern that he might go out and discover the cause, but find- ing none at hand, and it being very dark, he remained where he was, great- ly intimidated by the gloomy aspect of every thing about him. Early the next morning he sallied forth, and there found two horses ly- ing dead, and a pair of oxen crushed beneath the superincumbent weight of the heavy timber of the barn. But they still survived and from them doubtless proceeded the groans that had alarmed him during the night. With difflculty he liberated one of them, and partly cut away the timbers which confined the other, but believing him to be about dead, he desisted from further attempts, and hastened on his journey. On reaching the river about two miles distant, he found that the bridge was swept away, and was obliged to return to the house to procure an axe to fall a tree at the river's edge, by means of which he might cross to the opposite side. On returning he noticed that the ox which he had before partially libera- ted had somewhat revived, and he soon cut away the timbers that boimd him down. He then again resumed his route, finding the road torn away and b'ocked up, and the bridges destroyed, and at length arrived at Mr. Crawford's, and gave the alarm. CHAPTER V. The Effects of the Avalanche. It is believed tliat some time during the night of the 28th, Mr. Willey was up intently and anxiously watching the aspect of the mountains, he being found afterwai-ds partially clothed, while the others were divested of their apparel, as if roused from their midni