Class l^t 
 
 Book 3— 
 
 COPYRIGHT OEPOS1T. 
 
SGRIBNER'S 
 MAGAZINE GUIDE 
 
 TWELVE SHORT EXCURSIONS 
 ABOUT LONDON 
 
 And Information Concerning the Principal 
 
 Hotels, Restaurants, Shops 
 
 and Theatres 
 
 Published by 
 
 SCRIBNER'S MAGAZINE INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL 
 AND SHOPPING BUREAU 
 
 153-157 Fifth Avenue, New York 
 
 328 Wabash Avenue, Chicago 
 
 Temple House, Temple Avenue, London, E. C. 
 
Copyright, 1910, by Charles Scribner's Sons 
 
 Entered at Stationers' Hall 
 
 ©CI.A2650.80 
 
THIS Guide, giving twelve 
 short excursions about Lon- 
 don, is published especially 
 for American visitors. It contains 
 practical information about Hotels, 
 Restaurants, and the principal 
 Theatres. 
 
 The classified list of shops where 
 purchases of various kinds may be 
 made, will be found of great 
 assistance. 
 
 Any further or special informa- 
 tion desired will be gladly fur- 
 nished by Scribner's Magazine 
 International Travel and 
 Shopping Bureau. (See announce- 
 ment on the first page.) 
 
Walk Number One 
 
 ALONG PICCADILLY AND PARK LANE 
 TO THE MARBLE ARCH 
 
 a stereograph, copyright by H. C. White Compaiv 
 
 Piccadilly ( 'ircus 
 
 GREATER LONDON, it has been estimated, contains 
 seven thousand miles of streets and it is said that seventy- 
 five miles of new streets are added every year. The visit of 
 the average American to London is, perhaps, for a fortnight, 
 and he can take comfort in the thought that in two weeks of judicious 
 and carefully planned travelling on certain well-defined routes he 
 may learn more of London and its infinite charm than the average 
 
Along Piccadilly and Park 
 
 Londoner learns in a lifetime. Let him make Piccadilly Circus his 
 centre, and work north, south, east, and west, availing himself of 
 the "tube" railways where need be, but never forgetting Mr. Glad- 
 stone's sound advice that the best way to see London is from the top 
 of a 'bus. 
 
 In Piccadilly Circus one may see London life at its best or at its 
 worst — according to the hour ot the clock. During the hours of day- 
 light it is thronged by men of business, many of whom occasionally 
 stop to buy a flower from the girls seated at the base of the Shaftes- 
 bury Memorial Fountain, and still more by crowds of ladies out 
 shopping. At night, when thousands are pouring forth from the 
 neighboring theatres, the Circus, with its bright colored dresses, 
 its brilliant lights, and flashing electric signs, is one of the gayest 
 sights of London. 
 
 From the Circus important streets branch off, like so many 
 spokes from the hub ot a wheel. As you stand with your back to the 
 Criterion restaurant, Piccadilly halt shoots straight off westward. 
 At its first corner, where the quadrant of Regent Street sweeps down, 
 is Swan & Edgar's, where everything that the heart of woman may 
 desire for personal use may be purchased. The Haymarket drops 
 away to the right; across the way is the Pavilion 1 heatre of Varieties, 
 with the Cafe Monico visible just beyond, and a few yards higher up 
 Windmill Street stands the far-famed Trocadero restaurant. 
 
 An interesting first walk is along Piccadilly and up Park Lane to 
 the Marble Arch. Immediately to the right stands the Piccadilly 
 Hotel, extending back to Regent Street, and occupying the site of 
 St. James's Hall, sacred for many years to the Christy Minstrels. 
 Opposite stands the Royal School ot Mines and Museum of Prac- 
 tical Geology, and just beyond is St. James's Church, built by Wren, 
 and containing a beautiful marble font carved by Grinlin'g Gibbons. 
 Just beyond again stands Prince's restaurant, opened by King 
 Edward, over which is the Royal Institute ot Painters in Water 
 Color. Cross the road, and you find yourself in the Albany, a se- 
 cluded nest ot chambers, with memories ot Byron, Macaulay, 
 Bulwer Lytton, and Gladstone. Burlington House, where the Royal 
 Academy holds its annual exhibitions during the months of May, 
 June, and July, rears its noble proportions close by. There the 
 Royal Society, the most learned body in Great Britain, holds its 
 meetings; as also do many other learned societies of note. Bur- 
 
Lane to the Marble Arch 
 
 lington Arcade, a mean little covered way by the side of Burlington 
 House, belies its appearance by containing some of the best shops in 
 London for the small necessaries ot personal use. Bond Street, on 
 the right, is another famous shopping centre, where money has an 
 easy habit of disappearing. At the corner of Arlington Street stands 
 the Ritz Hotel, another huge caravanserai, and opposite is Hatch- 
 ett's restaurant, formerly famous as the White Horse Cellar, a 
 starting point for coaches and still favored by four-in-hands. Dev- 
 onshire House, the low-built grimy building on the right, seen through 
 beautiful gilt and iron gates, is the town house of the 
 Duke of Devonshire, but more notable, perhaps, as 
 the place where Gainsborough's beautiful " Duchess" 
 held court. In the house at the corner of Stratton 
 Street, just beyond, Sir Henry living's body lay in 
 state, prior to the funeral in Westminster Abbey. 
 
 Small shops, palatial clubs, millionaires' houses, 
 and expensive flats jostle side by side as we go along. 
 The whole south side of Piccadilly is taken up by 
 the Green Park, one of the most charming ot London 
 oases. At Cambridge House, No. 94, a lunatic lieuten- 
 ant named Pate attempted to take the life of Queen 
 Victoria, and here, at a later date, lived Lord Palmer- 
 ston of Alabama fame. At the corner of Park Lane 
 is a large block of flats, occupying the site ot the house , ,, .. 
 
 ^ r J ^ A. l ' ttobb v 
 
 to which Lord Elgin brought the famous marbles 
 from the Parthenon at Athens. No. 148, a little further on, is the 
 town house of Lord Rothschild, one of the money kings of England, 
 and then we reach Apsley House, at Hyde Park corner, for many 
 years the home of the Duke of Wellington, the hero of Waterloo. 
 The interior is expensively and elaborately decorated, and the art 
 gallery contains many notable paintings and statues. 
 
 We now turn back a little and enter Park Lane which overlooks 
 Hyde Park. Its mean beginning is far from suggesting that the 
 thoroughfare is the most fashionable in London and contains the 
 homes of many millionaires. The roadway just inside the Park is 
 part of "The Ring," as the society drive round the Park is termed. 
 At the corner of Great Stanhope Street, on the right, is the house 
 which Barney Barnato built for himself, but never occupied. Just 
 beyond stands Dorchester House, the home of Mr. Whitelaw Reid, 
 
Piccadilly Circus to Marble Arch 
 
 the American Ambassador, famous alike for its beautiful marble 
 staircase and its examples of many great painters. At No. 26 
 lived Mr. Alfred Beit, the South African millionaire. Disraeli 
 (Lord Beaconsfield) wrote "Sybil" and "Coningsby" at No. 29. 
 Between Mount Street and Upper Grosvenor Street one catches a 
 view of the Duke of Westminster's mansion, containing a valuable 
 collection of pictures, open to privileged visitors. Next, at the south 
 corner of Upper Brook Street, stands Dudley House, and at No. 24 
 is the collection of curiosities formed by Lady Brassey during her 
 voyages in the "Sunbeam." A few yards further on and we emerge 
 into busy, bustling, motor-thronged Oxford Street, close to the 
 Marble Arch and the site of Tyburn, where, in the old days, thou- 
 sands of executions took place. 
 
 (Piccadilly Circus may be quickly regained by taking the "tube" 
 train and changing at Oxford Circus.) 
 
 The Marble Arch 
 
Walk Number Two 
 
 UP REGENT STREET AND 
 ON TO REGENT'S PARK 
 
 Regent Street 
 
 FEW who walk up Regent Street to-day would imagine that, 
 two centuries ago, one might have shot a woodcock there, 
 or that, only a hundred years ago, it was the haunt of high- 
 waymen. Regent Street owes its inception to the Prince 
 Regent, afterwards George IV, who wished to connect Carlton 
 House with a villa on Primrose Hill — which was never built — by a 
 handsome thoroughfare three miles long. The Prince believed that 
 he drew up the plans for the street, just as he believed that he led the 
 cavalry at Waterloo, but John Nash must be credited with the design. 
 Originally the quadrant part of the street was "adorned" by colon- 
 nades, but these were removed in deference to the wishes of shop- 
 keepers who complained of their darkened windows. 
 
Up Regent Street and 
 
 Regent Street begins where Waterloo Place leaves off", a short 
 distance beiow Piccadilly Circus. In this lower portion there is 
 little to attract, but there are the Goupil Gallery and the Junior Army 
 and Navy stores on the left, and on the right the handsome premises 
 of Elkington the silversmith. 
 
 Arriving at Piccadilly Circus (see Walk I), the way leads through 
 ceaseless bewildering traffic. Immediately at the beginning of the 
 Regent Street quadrant you find yourself at Swan & Edgar's. Under 
 the Piccadilly Hotel are the brilliant windows of Stewart Dawson 
 the jeweller. If you are interested in thumb-prints, you may call 
 upon Mr. Leon Kendal; while an inspection of De Pinna's antiques 
 will satisfy your tastes in that direction. Vigo Street leads into 
 Savile Row, the headquarters of the Royal Geographical Society 
 and the Alpine Club, but perhaps it's even more noted as the home of 
 Poole's, the fashionable tailor, who is popularly reported not to ac- 
 cept a new customer unless he be introduced by a duke. In Savile 
 Row, Grote the historian lived and Sheridan the dramatist died. 
 Just beyond Vigo Street stands the New Gallery, a rival to the Royal 
 Academy in popularity and far less trammelled by traditions. The 
 establishment of Rimmel, the maker of perfumes, is next door, and 
 a few paces away the Kodak Company does business. Conduit 
 Street, leading off on the left, is the street where Charles James Fox, 
 Pitt's great opponent, was born; and beyond, in Hanover Square, 
 with its fashionable Church of St. George, is where Nelson's Lady 
 Hamilton, George Eliot, and, lastly, Theodore Roosevelt were mar- 
 ried. Back again in Regent Street, you may find delight in the 
 artistic windows of Liberty, or the shops of Dickins & Jones, Rob- 
 inson & Cleaver, or Peter Robinson. Leather goods in great va- 
 riety may be had at the famous shop of John Pound. 
 
 You are now at Oxford Circus, formed by the intersection of 
 Regent Street and Oxford Street. Carriages, taxicabs, and omni- 
 buses roll along in ceaseless procession, but the way for the pedestrian 
 is cleared by the uplifted arm of the policeman, whose control of the 
 traffic is an everlasting wonder to the country visitor to the metropo- 
 lis. At Oxford Circus the Bakerloo and the Central London "tubes" 
 form a junction. Our way, however, is straight ahead, to where 
 Regent Street finishes under the shadow of All Souls' Church, like- 
 wise built by Nash, who seems to have let his architectural fancy run 
 mad on this occasion. On the left we have passed the Polytechnic 
 
 » 10 
 
on to Regent's Park 
 
 Young Men's Christian Institute, established by Mr. Ouintin Hogg 
 whose statue stands a little way off, and on the right we see St. 
 George's Hall, now a home of magic and mystery, and Queen's 
 Hall, principally used for concerts and political meetings. 
 
 Swing oft to the left into Langham Place, and thence straight 
 ahead to Portland Place, which contains many noble mansions, 
 most of them due to the Brothers Adam who built the Adelphi. 
 Parallel with Portland Place is Harley Street, the doctors' street par 
 excellence. Park Crescent comes next, and then the Marylebone 
 Road, where Madame Tussaud's Waxwork Exhibition still attracts 
 its thousands of visitors. A special place of interest is Regent's Park, 
 a beautiful enclosure much favored by the "middle classes." Its 
 area may be gauged from the fact that the drive round is two miles 
 long. A splendid broad walk leads from north to south, and if this 
 be too public you may rest under the innumerable trees, or lie on the 
 broad acres of greensward that extend on every hand. On Sunday 
 this rest may be a little difficult, owing to the crowds which throng in 
 from the industrial neighborhoods close by, or because of the orators 
 who discuss every subject under the sun and a few beyond it. In the 
 centre of the park are the Royal Botanic Gardens, famous for their 
 summer flower shows, and near at hand is the ornamental lake, 
 shaped like a straggling Y, where boating takes place in summer, 
 and skating when a "good old-fashioned winter" returns. At the 
 north-west extremity of the lake is St. Dunstan's Lodge, where one 
 may see the old clock and automaton figures that formerly adorned 
 the front of St. Dunstan's Church in Fleet Street. They were bought 
 and placed there by the Marquis of Hertford who, as a child, had 
 admired them as they stood in their old position. 
 
 By no means leave Regent's Park without visiting the Zoological 
 Gardens, or the "Zoo" as Londoners know them, where great 
 scientists have come to study the many marvels of animal life, and 
 thousands of children find daily delight. There are still a few ani- 
 mals in the world which have escaped the blandishments of the 
 "Zoo" officials, who spare neither money nor trouble in completing 
 their collection, but the number is diminishing every year. 
 
 (Return to Piccadilly Circus by walking south across the Park 
 to Regent's Park Station, and thence by Bakerloo "'tube.") 
 
 II 
 
}]'<jilk Number Three 
 
 WHITEHALL, THE HOUSES OF PARLIA- 
 MENT, WESTMINSTER ABBEY, ETC. 
 
 The Houses of Parliament 
 
 WALK down Regent Street and Cockspur Street to 
 Trafalgar Square. 
 Whitehall to-day is a thoroughfare only; years ago 
 there was a palace there where Cardinal Wolsey once 
 lived in magnificent state, only to be ousted hv King Henry VIII 
 who seized the building and had it enlarged and beautified to satisfy 
 his more lordly taste. Our walk really begins at Charing Cross, 
 where the statue of King Charles I, still decorated on each anniver- 
 sary of his death, commands attention. The heavy Greek building 
 on the right is the old office of the British Admiralty, where Nelson's 
 body, having been brought up the river to Westminster, lay in state 
 before his funeral in St. Paul's. Just behind are the new Admiralty 
 buildings, with the apparatus for wireless telegraphy on the root 
 that gives them a finishing touch of modernity. A few yards lower 
 
 » 12 
 
Whitehall, Parliament, Westminster 
 
 down are the Horse Guards, with their two resplendent troopers 
 always in view, and across the road is the new War Office, with an 
 equestrian statue of the late Duke of Cambridge. Near at hand, 
 on the same side, is the banqueting hall, all that is left of the old 
 Royal Palace. The hall was built to the order of fames I, and from 
 a window marked by a tablet, his son, Charles I, stepped forth to 
 the scaffold where his life and his futile struggle with the people alike 
 were ended. The banqueting hall is now used as a military and 
 naval museum. On Gwydyn House, next door, may be seen a couple 
 of the torch extinguishers, in use when the link boy w T as necessary 
 to safe walking after dark. 
 
 The right side of the thoroughfare, below the Horse Guards, is 
 filled with government offices, and at the point where Whitehall 
 changes into Parliament Street you may see the entrance to dingy 
 Downing Street. No. 10, one of the old houses on the right-hand 
 side is, and has been for two centuries, the official residence of the 
 British Prime Minister — the home of Disraeli and Gladstone, among 
 others — and next door is the official residence of the Chancellor of the 
 Exchequer. From these two houses the British Empire is ruled and 
 the British taxpayer taught the cost of being the free citizen of a free 
 country. 
 
 The view from the bottom of Parliament Street is one of the finest 
 in London. On the left you see the beautiful buildings of the British 
 Houses of Parliament; directly in front is New Palace Yard, and 
 beyond that the Old Palace Yard of sinister memories, and on the 
 right, beyond St. Margaret's Church, the ancient Abbey of West- 
 minster stands out boldly. The Houses of Parliament cover twice 
 the area of the building burned down in 1834. They cost nearly three 
 million pounds and contain eleven hundred rooms, but the apart- 
 ment where the Commons meet has accommodation for seating only 
 two-thirds of its members. The Victoria Tower, from which the flag 
 flies when the House is sitting by day, is three hundred and forty feet 
 high, and the Clock Tower, lighted at night when the House is sitting, 
 is three hundred and eighteen feet high. The clock has a diameter 
 of twenty-three feet, and the bell, familiarly known as "Big Ben," 
 weighs thirteen tons. A favorite resort of members and their friends 
 is the terrace overlooking the Thames, which is a brave sight on 
 sunny summer afternoons. Westminster Hall, standing alongside 
 the Houses of Parliament, was built by William Rufus but "re- 
 
 J 3 
 
Whitehall, The Houses of 
 
 The Horse Guards 
 
 stored" at a later date. 
 Here the early English 
 Parliaments were held, 
 and here many famous 
 state trials have taken 
 place — Charles I to be 
 condemned to death, 
 Warren Hastings to 
 be acquitted. 
 
 Every yard on which 
 Westminster Abbey is 
 built is a treasure-house 
 of memories and asso- 
 ciations. The original 
 Abbey was erected by Edward the Confessor, whose tomb may still be 
 seen behind the high altar, but little of his work remains, and the Abbey, 
 as we see it to-day, is due to later monarchs, mainly to Henry III and 
 Henry VII. The two western towers were added in the eighteenth 
 century by Sir Christopher Wren, and are acceptable only when we 
 remember that he had little sympathy with Gothic architecture. 
 For hundreds of years the Abbey has been the place of coronation of 
 the kings and queens of England, and here, too, their bodies have 
 been laid to rest. But kings and queens count for little among the 
 illustrious dead who also sleep in this national Valhalla — statesmen 
 who have swayed the destinies of Empire, writers who have enriched 
 the literature of our common tongue, scientists who have broadened 
 the field of human knowledge, musicians who have called harmonies 
 from the spheres, or poets whose songs are an immortal legacy to our 
 race. "We feel," as Washington Irving well said, "that we are sur- 
 rounded by the congregated bones of the great men of past'times who 
 have filled the earth with their renown." 
 
 St. Margaret's Church, near by, must be visited too, if only to see 
 the memorial window of Sir Walter Raleigh, presented by American 
 citizens in 1882, and the Milton window, beneath which is a tribute 
 from the pen of Whittier. A short walk along Grosvenor Road, 
 skirting the river, will bring you to the Tate Gallery, with its fine 
 collection of modern paintings, built on the site of the old Millbank 
 Prison, and doing far more to uplift and improve the race. It owes 
 its origin to the late Sir Henry Tate, the Liverpool sugar merchant. 
 
 14 
 
Parliament, Westminster Abb 
 
 icy 
 
 who presented it to the nation, along with a large collection of pict- 
 ures, tor the encouragement of British art, "and as a thank-offering 
 for a prosperous business career of sixty years." 
 
 The walk along the Grosvenor Road will bring you to Vauxhall 
 Bridge, whence an electric tram will carry you to Victoria Station, 
 one of the largest railway terminals in London and a starting-point 
 for the Continent. Close to the station is the Roman Catholic Ca- 
 thedral, unique, as far as London is concerned, in its Byzantine archi- 
 tecture, which, when finished, will be unique also for the splendor of 
 its internal adornment. It has a length of three hundred and sixty 
 feet; its domes are one hundred and twelve feet above ground, and the 
 loftv campanile is two hundred and eighty-four feet high. " Beyond 
 all doubt the finest church that has been built for centuries," says a 
 competent critic, and as one glances at the beautiful marble pillars, the 
 gorgeous mosaics of the side chapels, at the costly pulpit and throne, 
 one is inclined to agree that, at any rate in England, nothing like it 
 has been seen since the Reformation. Thousands of pounds have been 
 spent on the Cathedral ; thousands more will be spent, and years must 
 elapse before the ideas of the architect are carried out in their fulness. 
 
 (Return to Piccadilly Circus by District Railway and Bakerloo 
 '"tube," changing at Charing Cross.) 
 
 West Front of Westminster Abbey 
 
 15 
 
Walk Number Four 
 
 FROM HOLBORN CIRCUS TO THE MARBLE 
 ARCH via HOLBORN AND OXFORD STREET 
 
 Old Houses, Hi^h Hoi born 
 
 WE shall have to "double on our own tracks" a little in this 
 walk through London, but the effort will be well repaid. 
 Hours and even days might be spent on this-linje of route 
 with profit. Our present survey must be necessarily 
 brief. At Holborn Circus note the beginning of Hatton Garden, the 
 centre of the diamond industry of the world, and also Ely Place, a 
 famous rose garden in Shakespeare's day, but now only notable for 
 St. Etheldreda's Church, dating from the fourteenth century, and the 
 watchman at the gate who is not quite so old. Just beyond Hatton 
 Garden stands the great emporium of Gamages, which had its origin 
 a few years ago in a tiny store, and has now practically absorbed the 
 "Old Bells," where Mrs. Gamp ministered to her unfortunate pa- 
 
 16 
 
Hoi born Circus to Marble Arch 
 
 tients. The shiny terra-cotta Prudential building stands near the 
 street where Chatterton died, and across the way are some excellent 
 specimens of old timbered houses, known as Staple Inn, from the 
 Woolstaples to whom it once belonged. While living here, Dr. 
 Johnson wrote "Rasselas" to defray the expenses of his mother's 
 funeral. Another ancient inn — Gray's Inn — stands a stone's throw 
 off, close to the road of the name, and a little further on, past the 
 First Avenue Hotel, almost any turning will lead you to Red Lion 
 Square, where Burne-Jones and William Morris, enthusiastic pre- 
 Raphaelites, once had lodgings. Returning to Holborn, note the 
 Georges Blue Boar, where criminals bound for execution at Tyburn 
 made their last call for refreshment. Shops line each side of the 
 thoroughfare, getting better as we get farther westward, so that your 
 progress, as you interest increases, will be probably slow. 
 
 You will come soon to note the noble street of Kingsway, one of 
 the finest thoroughfares in the metropolis, and destined to be finer 
 still when all its sites are occupied. At one corner stands a station of 
 the Piccadilly "tube" — "underground to anywhere, quickest way, 
 cheapest fare" — and at the other end is the Holborn restaurant, fa- 
 mous for political post-prandial oratory. Across the roadway, turn 
 off at Mudie's Circulating Library with its million volumes, and soon 
 you are breathing the somewhat somnolent air of the British Museum 
 with its two million volumes, occupying more than forty miles of 
 shelving, and its countless antiquities, including the famous Elgin 
 marbles, gathered from every country under the sun, and illustrating 
 every period of human history. 
 
 High Holborn now passes into New Oxford Street, but its char- 
 acter remains the same. It is still a street of shops, where you can 
 obtain almost anything that money can purchase. One of the most 
 notable establishments is that of Messrs. Pears, the makers of soap, 
 where you may see the originals of the pictures which they have 
 used to make their goods famous all over the world. Millais's " Bub- 
 hies," which gave the first idea of advertising as a fine art, is in- 
 cluded, and the original statuette of "You Dirty Boy." Tottenham 
 Court Road leads off on the north to Highgate, Charing Cross Road 
 on the South to Charing Cross, but neither need detain us, unless in 
 the case of the former you would like to visit the Whitefield Memorial 
 Tabernacle and see the pulpit from which Whitefield preached. 
 Stanway Street, running from Tottenham Court Road to Oxford 
 
 17 
 
From Hoi born Circus to the Marble 
 
 Street is where the "Cohens of Daniel Deronda" lived; to-day it is 
 the haunt of connoisseurs in embroidery and old silver. 
 
 You are now in Oxford Street. Close at hand is the Oxford 
 Music Hall, a home of "variety" entertainment, and a few doors fur- 
 ther along stands Frascati's restaurant, one of the most valuable of 
 its kind and in complete accord, with regard to food and fees, with 
 the fashionable London where you now happen to be. The round of 
 Oxford Circus should not be omitted. After a glance at Hanover 
 Square (President Roosevelt was married at the Church of St. 
 George), you may turn aside to inspect the Bond Streets, both old 
 and new. The very name. Bond Street, has a substantial, moneyed, 
 gilt-edged security sound about it. The shops are of the best — none 
 finer are to be found in the world — and here you may purchase 
 exquisite jewelry, choice porcelain, the rarest perfumes, or even 
 paintings by the old masters, according to your purses and 
 your fancy. 
 
 If you choose, you may work your way back to Oxford Street 
 via a portion of "Mayfair," including Berkeley Square — with Lans- 
 downe House and its magnificent sculptures — and Grosvenor 
 Square, of all squares in London the one which held out longest 
 against gaslighting. 
 
 A short trip up Duke Street will bring you to Hertford House, 
 now the home of the magnificent collection of pictures, furniture, 
 armor and other objects of art, brought together by the Marquis of 
 Hertford (Thackeray's Marquis of Steyne), his son, and Sir Richard 
 Wallace. Experts estimate that the treasures of The Wallace Collection, 
 which were given to the nation, are worth five millions sterling. 
 Baker Street close by suggests a visit to Madame Tussaud's famous 
 "wax-works" with its Chamber of Horrors, and Napoleonic relics. 
 Returning to Oxford Street you will hardly fail to note Tr±e Times 
 Book Club which, at its origin, wrought anger and consternation 
 in the minds of publishers by insisting on selling books at second, 
 third, and fourth-hand prices within a short time of their publication. 
 Selfridge's — -flaunting its many flags to the dull British sky — -is an 
 American importation, where you may have everything you want by 
 the asking. You are never asked to buy, a fact which distinguishes 
 Selfridge's from other London establishments of the kind. And 
 then you reach the Marble Arch, an imposing structure, originally at 
 the extreme end of Buckingham Palace, and removed to its present 
 
 1 8 
 
Arch via Hoi born and Oxford Street 
 
 site sixty years ago. There are few fairer spots in London, on a 
 bright May morning, than this — and yet we are on the site where, 
 tor centuries, "traitors" and malefactors by the thousands were put 
 to a shameful death. London is a place for contrasts. 
 
 (Return to Piccadilly by Central London "tube," changing at 
 Oxford Circus into the Bakerloo line.) 
 
 Oxford Circus 
 
 *9 
 
Walk Number Five 
 
 FOUR MILES ACROSS THE PARK 
 
 The Thames Embankment, showing Cleopatra's Needle 
 
 NOT every Londoner knows that you can take a country walk 
 four miles long in the very heart of the metropolis and al- 
 most without setting foot in the streets. It is very much 
 of a mistake to assume that London is only a great ugly 
 mass of houses forever wrapped in yellow fog or swept by biting winds 
 from the North Sea. At its best, and the best comes very often during 
 the year, it offers many pictures of charming rural beauty — green turf, 
 budding trees, gayly colored flowers, all alight with the light sunshine 
 of the country itself. Let us start at Blackfriars Bridge and, turning 
 from the broad-bosomed Thames wearing its picturesque, brown- 
 sailed lighters, pass the Temple Gardens, where the quarrel between 
 the houses of York and Lancaster began, and enter the Embank- 
 ment Gardens which stretch with little intermission to Charing 
 •Cross. They are exquisitely laid out with grass-plots, flower-beds, 
 and trees, a miracle of landscape gardening when one remembers 
 
 20 
 
Four Miles across the Park 
 
 that a generation ago, before the Embankment was built, the land 
 was nothing more than the muddy slope of the riverside. The open- 
 air cafe and the bands, supplied by the London County Council, add 
 quite a continental air to the scene. As you draw near to Charing 
 Cross you notice the Savoy Hotel, gayly decked with flowers, towering 
 on the right, and a little further on the old water-gate of York House 
 recalls one of the palaces which formerly stood in this area. Char- 
 ing Cross station, whence you may depart for Paris, the Mecca of 
 all good Americans, is slightly different in appearance since the 
 huge curved roof crumpled in like paper and collapsed. 
 
 Instead of following; the Embankment right on to Westminster, 
 turn sharply to the right and cross Whitehall by the War Office to 
 where the two mounted troopers add picturesqueness to a somewhat 
 drab thoroughfare. This is the Horse Guards, and once under its 
 archway you are on the parade — -formerly a tilt-yard and tournament 
 ground — where the trooping of colors takes place. Facing you is 
 St. James's Park. Just on your left stands the solid block of build- 
 ings where the foreign, Indian, Colonial, and financial business of 
 British government is transacted. The apple and milk stall at the 
 entrance to the Park has been there since the days of Charles II, and a 
 recent attempt to remove it created a storm of successful opposition. 
 Formerly St. James's Park was the Garden of St. James's Palace, and 
 would be so now if Queen Caroline had had her way. She asked 
 Walpole what it would cost to make it so, and the wise minister 
 replied, "Only three crowns, madam." Crossing the angle of the 
 Park you will find yourself in the processional road, known as the 
 Mall, leading straight from Buckingham Palace to Trafalgar Square. 
 Down this road passes the King, in his ancient, gilded coach drawn 
 by eight horses, when he goes to open Parliament. The imposing row 
 of houses on the right is Carlton House Terrace, built on the site of 
 the Carlton House where George IV lived and rioted, and near at 
 hand is a tall column, supporting a statue of the Duke of York, the 
 second son of George III, who is said to have gone up there to escape 
 his creditors. You pass behind Marlborough House, the town resi- 
 dence of the Prince of Wales, and St. James's Palace and so reach 
 the Queen Victoria Memorial, which, when completed, will be the 
 finest piece of sculpture and statuary in London. Behind is the 
 gloomy Buckingham Palace where King Edward lives when he is 
 in London. The memorial to the late Queen and the magnificent 
 
 21 
 
gates leading by various ways into the Park make the Palace seem 
 dingier than it really is. 
 
 The road to the left takes you to Victoria station if you are bound 
 on a continental journey or desire to inspect the fine shops in the 
 Buckingham Palace Road. But your present purpose is a country 
 walk in London, and so you go across the Green Park, across which 
 the low rumble ot Piccadilly can be heard. On the road you trav- 
 erse no fewer than three attempts were made to assassinate Queen 
 Victoria, and here occurred the tail horn his horse which led to the 
 death of Sir Robert Peel. 
 
 The end of the road lands us at Hyde Park corner, the principal 
 entrance, a splendid open space of more than three hundred acres. 
 It was the first, as it is the greatest, park in London, greatest in the 
 sense that every one seems to have a proprietary interest in its ver- 
 dant sward. If you are ot the "upper ten" you take riding exercise 
 in Rotten Row before business or pleasure begins for the day; here, 
 as the sun is westering, you indulge in that laziest form of gymnastics 
 — "carriage exercise" — and possibly find comfort in the thought 
 that Queen Alexandra herself is in the procession. Having neither 
 horse nor carriage, and being otherwise unblessed with this world's 
 goods, if it be early morning you bathe in the Serpentine (where 
 Shelley's wife drowned herself) or lie about on the grass with all the 
 happiness of the beggar in "The Enchanted Shirt." Having an axe 
 to grind, you join in the political or religious meeting held near the 
 Reformers Tree or assist in the "demonstrations" for which Hyde 
 Park, in the eyes of the horny-handed sons of toil, has its raison 
 d'etre. Hyde Park supplies all needs; without it London would be 
 unthinkable. 
 
 Westward of Hyde Park, and almost forming one with it, are Ken- 
 sington Gardens, laid out by Dutch William and his Queen as gar- 
 dens to their palace hard by. The people have invaded the royal 
 grounds, and now on any summer's afternoon you may see fashion- 
 able folk taking tea beneath the trees, while their children, side by 
 side with the children of the "nobility," sail toy boats on the round 
 pond. On the southern edge of the gardens stands the Albert 
 Memorial, the costly and much criticised tribute raised to the mem- 
 ory of the Prince Consort by Queen Victoria and her people, "as a 
 tribute of their gratitude for a life devoted to the public good." 
 Westward again across the Gardens and you reach the Broad Walk, 
 
 22 
 
Four Miles across the Park 
 
 running from Bayswater to Kensington, and so to Kensington Palace, 
 where King William III lived and died, as well as his Queen Mary. 
 To the British nation, however, the most interesting fact about the 
 palace is that here Princess Victoria was born, in 1819, and here, as a 
 girl of eighteen, she came down from her bedroom "in a loose white 
 nightgown and shawl, her nightcap thrown off . . . her feet in slip- 
 pers, to receive the news that by the death of her uncle she would 
 become the Queen of England." The state rooms of the palace are 
 now open to the public. 
 
 (Return to Piccadilly Circus by motor-bus, along Kensington 
 Road, Knightsbridge, and Piccadilly.) 
 
 Rotten Row, Hyde Park 
 
 23 
 
Walk Number Six 
 
 KNIGHTSBRIDGE, CHELSEA 
 AND SOUTH KENSINGTON 
 
 MOTOR-BUS FROM PICCADILL Y CIRCUS TO HYDE PARK CORNER 
 
 OUR walk to-day begins at Hyde Park Corner, and for the first 
 part is concerned with Knightsbridge, a busy and populous 
 part of London now, but once the favorite haunt of duellists, 
 pleasure-seekers, and those mounted and masked gentry 
 who passed their nights in relieving the mail-coach travellers of their 
 purses as they passed in and out of London. The only coaches we 
 see now are those bound on summer tours in the Home Counties, and 
 the passengers are as safe as the Bank of England. Immediately on 
 our left is St. George's Hospital, where Hunter, the great anatomist, 
 died. Close to it once stood "Tattersall's," the great auction mart 
 for race-horses and other high-class steeds, but you must look in 
 Brompton Road, five minutes' walk away, for the present establish- 
 ment. On the right, as we go along, we see the fresh green turf of 
 Hyde Park; on the left the Alexandra Hotel, many fine houses, and 
 many still finer blocks of flats. Sloane Street is partly shops, partly- 
 private residences. It leads 
 through the aristocratic district 
 of Belgravia to Sloane Square, 
 where one must linger for 
 awhile to inspect the beautiful 
 church of the Christian Scien- 
 tists, and the no less beautiful 
 church of the Holy Trinity, the 
 latter with its marvellous metal 
 work, its Burne-Jones windows, 
 and other features, forming the 
 most representative example of 
 modern ecclesiastical art that 
 London has produced. If so 
 minded, you may take a motor- 
 bus from Sloane Square down 
 Hyde Park < orner King's Road en route to Chelsea. 
 
 24 
 
Kmghtsbridge, Chelsea, South Kensington 
 
 The house in Cheyne Row where Carlyle lived and wrote is now open 
 as a public museum, filled with relics of the grim old sage, all of which 
 are shown by a worthy custodian who is brimming over with enthusi- 
 asm and facts about the house and its former residents. The visitor 
 to Chelsea may also see the house where George Eliot died; the one in 
 which Turner the painter, known locally as "Puggy Booth," lived in 
 retreat for many years; and also the "Queen's House," where Queen 
 Katherine Parr and the Princess Elizabeth resided. Chelsea Church, 
 hard by, is full of the memories of four centuries — memories of Sir 
 Thomas More and his false patron, King Henry VIII, of Hans Sloane, 
 and later of the brothers Kingsley, whose father was rector here. 
 Note the chained books in the church, and the bell on the porch 
 which was given in gratitude by a man who was drowning in the river 
 on a dark night, and was enabled, by the chiming of the church clock, 
 to direct himself toward the bank. 
 
 But we must hark back from Chelsea via Sloane Square and 
 Sloane Street, to where Knightsbridge is formed by the Brompton 
 Road. A little way down the latter thoroughfare stands the huge 
 store of Harrod's, another of the "universal providers" who have 
 sprung up in London during the last generation and, while benefiting 
 the purchasing public, threaten to extinguish the small shopkeeper. 
 Harrod's palatial building offers a curious contrast to the shops on the 
 other side of the road, but visitors to London quickly learn that dingy 
 premises often hold a high quality of goods. Just opposite, where the 
 Fulham Road enters Brompton Road, stands the Oratory of the 
 Immaculate Heart of Mary, a Catholic church resplendent in its 
 marble columns, its carvings, and its decorations. A statue of Cardi- 
 nal Newman is seen outside. 
 
 Further along the spacious thoroughfare we reach the Victoria 
 and Albert Museum which, during the last fifty years, has "growed," 
 like 1 opsy, and is somewhat haphazard in its collections and their ar- 
 rangement. But there is hope that in its magnificent new home the 
 one hundred thousand odd treasures of architecture and sculpture, 
 furniture, armor, porcelain, china, textile fabrics, and pictures will be 
 the means of more education and fewer headaches than in the past. 
 Close at hand stands the National History Museum, with mineralogi- 
 cal, geological, zoological, botanical, and ornithological specimens, 
 which no visitor to London should omit from his itinerary. Behind 
 the Natural History Museum is the Imperial Institute, the national 
 
 25 
 
Knighi sbridge, Chelsea, South Kensington 
 
 memorial of Queen Victoria's jubilee, where the London University 
 is also housed. Passing up Exhibition Road one sees the City Guilds' 
 Technical College, and then a turn to the left brings you to the 
 famous Albert Hall, where an audience ten thousand strong often 
 gathers to hear the masters ot music and song, political orators, or 
 the advance guard of the army demanding woman's freedom. The 
 Albert Hall overlooks Hyde Park, and almost within its shadow 
 stands the Albert Memorial, erected to the memory of the Prince 
 Consort at a cost of one hundred and twenty thousand pounds. It is 
 an excellent example of what is irreverently but in this case excusably 
 called "Victorian art," and modern critics feel a glow of pleasure in 
 the hope that "it never can happen again." 
 
 From the Memorial we turn to the left along Kensington Road 
 and, if time allows, strike up the Broad Walk and so to Kensington 
 Palace, an ancient building where William III and his Queen Mary 
 lived, but dearer to the memory of the modern generation ot British- 
 ers as the birthplace of Queen Victoria. The state rooms are now 
 thrown open to the public. A short walk down Kensington Avenue 
 leads us to Kensington High Street, in the "royal borough" which 
 is still proud of its association with kings and queens. St. Mary's 
 Church, the parish church where the Lord Chief Justice of England 
 still sings in the choir, is well worthy of inspection, inside and out, 
 and so, too, is Kensington Town Hall, if only for the portraits ot the 
 celebrities who have lent distinction to the neighborhood. And in 
 Young Street — -what lover of Thackeray would fail to take a look 
 at the double-fronted, bow-windowed house, suggesting comfort 
 within in spite of dinginess without, where Thackeray wrote some of 
 his most famous books ? This was before fame and fortune had 
 followed on the trail of his pen: when they came the quiet novelist 
 built himself a dwelling-place in Kensington Palace- Gardens, 
 where he dispensed hospitality in truly Bohemian style. This was 
 in the romantic days of Kensington: to-day the "old court suburb" 
 is given over to "shoes, and shops, and sealing-wax," and other 
 commercial products. 
 
 (Return to Piccadilly Circus by omnibus or by District Railway 
 and Piccadilly "tube.") 
 
 26 
 
Walk Number Seven 
 
 ROUND ABOUT LEICESTER SQUARE 
 AND TRAFALGAR SQUARE 
 
 LEICESTER SQUARE, where we begin our walk to-day, is 
 within easy stepping distance of our centre at Piccadilly 
 ^J Circus. Before going there, however, you may like to 
 investigate the district of Soho, a fashionable quarter in 
 the time of the Stuarts, but now inhabited chiefly by French and 
 Italians, as you may plainly see from the number of foreign restau- 
 rants scattered about. And these restaurants, though foreign, are 
 not to be despised. If cheap, they are clean; the food is well 
 cooked, and the proprietors do know how to make 
 soup and coffee. Wardour Street, running off the 
 north-west corner of Leicester Square, must be in- 
 spected if you care for antiques and curios, but go 
 therewith abundant knowledge, and do not believe a 
 thing to be old because it looks old, for the ways of 
 the fakir are past the comprehension of the ordinary 
 man. Don't forget, either, to step into the neighbor- 
 ing church of St. Anne, where Theodore, King of 
 Corsica, was buried as a pauper just after he had 
 been released from a debtors' prison, and Hazlitt the 
 essayist also found a resting-place. 
 
 Leicester Square is more French than its name im- 
 plies, for the unhappy refugees from La Belle France 
 have long favored it with their presence, and the school 
 of Notre Dame de France, for girls, is proof of their 
 numbers. Years ago the square contained many aris- 
 tocratic residents, but when these departed, desolation 
 fell on the enclosed garden, and so it remained un- 
 kempt and uncared for until Baron Grant effected its 
 restoration. This he did by laving out the 
 garden afresh, and handing it over to the 
 public, and by erecting the statue of Shake- 
 speare in the centre, and at the four corners 4 
 
 tne busts of Newton (who had his observ- Nelson Column, Trafalgar Square 
 
 27 
 
Leicester and Trafalgar Square 
 
 atory in St. Martin Street close by), Hunter, Hogarth, and Reynolds 
 (whose studio is now the auction room on the west side). The 
 Square boasts two variety halls, the Empire and the Alhambra, both 
 noted for their ballets; the excellent Hotel Cavour, and many cafes 
 and restaurants. On the south side stands the head-quarters of the 
 National Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Children, which 
 has done admirable work in raising the status of child-life in Eng- 
 land. If you are bookishly disposed, you may pass along Cran- 
 bourne Street into Charing Cross Road, where wonderful bargains in 
 second-hand volumes are to be obtained. Your way then lies due 
 south, past the National Portrait Gallery, containing more than a 
 thousand portraits of dead and gone English worthies from the time of 
 Richard II, and many autographs and medallions. Almost immedi- 
 ately opposite is the church of St. Martin's in the Fields, as it actually 
 was when the first building was erected. Fair but frail Nell Gwynne 
 was buried here, and legend savs that the peal of chimes which you 
 hear from the bells in the tower above is due to her munificence in 
 leaving money forthe ringingeach day. On thesamesideasthechurch 
 stands Morley's Hotel, where Ruskin often stayed, the offices of the 
 Royal Humane Society, and theUnitedStatesGov't Despatch Agency. 
 Trafalgar Square has been described as "the finest site in Eu- 
 rope," but this depends on whether the sun is shining on it of not. 
 It occupies the site of the ancient village of "Cherringe," and takes 
 its name from the last victory of Nelson. But it was many years 
 after Nelson's death that the nation decided to honor the dead hero 
 by the granite column that lifts itself aloft, and many more years 
 before it was annually decorated on the anniversary of his death. 
 The four lions, the work of Landseer, came later still, and excited 
 much cheap criticism from the ignorant. At the foot of the column 
 are bas-reliefs of the battle of the Nile, the battle of St. Vincent, the 
 bombardment of Copenhagen, and the death of Nelson*. Dotted 
 about the square are the statues of various eminent soldiers, who 
 look down with equal indifference on the tramps sleeping on the 
 benches beneath, or turn a deaf ear to the thousand and one demon- 
 strations, political, religious or neither, which, from time to time, 
 are held within the Square. The Rt. Hon. John Burns, Cabinet 
 Minister, practised oratory there, and George Bernard Shaw may 
 be seen there on occasions. 
 
 28 
 
Walk Number Eight 
 
 ALONG THE STRAND AND FLEET STREET 
 
 The Strand 
 
 A PENNY ride on a motor-bus will take you from Pic- 
 cadilly to Trafalgar Square, where we begin our eighth 
 walk, along the Strand and Fleet Street. 
 
 The Strand was formerly what its name implies, a 
 "strand" along the riverside. But that was centuries ago. Then 
 came the nobles and other wealthy folk who chose the land whereon 
 to build their mansions, with gardens sloping down to the silvery 
 Thames, on which their painted barges lay. To-day the Strand is 
 given up to theatres and variety halls, palatial hotels, and excellent 
 shops. Within the distance of a hundred yards you may buy any- 
 thing that mortal man may require, or woman either. The Strand 
 is an emporium of the world's products; and the patrol ground of 
 "the" profession, either "resting" or at work. A theatrical man- 
 
 29 
 
Along the Strand and Fleet Street 
 
 ager whom I know always rides down the Strand, to avoid importu- 
 nate actors. 
 
 As you walk eastward from Trafalgar Square you see Craven 
 Street immediately on your right, where, at No. 7, Benjamin Frank- 
 lin lived for many years. The Charing Cross terminus of the South- 
 Eastern Railway comes next, and in the station yard stands the 
 replica ot the cross which formerly stood in the ancient village of 
 Charing to commemorate Queen Eleanor, whose body rested there on 
 its way to burial in Westminster Abbey. Across the way is the mod- 
 ern version of the Golden Cross, an excellent hotel, outside which 
 Mr. Pickwick had his famous fight with the cabman. George Street, 
 Villiers Street, Duke Street, Buckingham Street recall the unworthy 
 favorite of Charles II, who had a mansion here, the water-gate of 
 which is still to be seen, showing how far the river has receded from 
 its ancient course. On the left you may notice the new premises of 
 Coutts Bank, and on the right is Adam Street, leading down to the 
 Adelphi so named from four enterprising architects, the brothers 
 Adam, who raised the houses as we see them to-day on arches built 
 over the muddy slopes of the river. In a house in Adelphi Terrace 
 died David Garrick the famous actor. The Marconi Wireless 
 Company have their London head-quarters near York Gate. 
 
 Passing the Vaudeville and Adelphi Theatres (with Romano's 
 restaurant), you come to the Strand Palace Hotel, an establishment 
 where the rule of "no tips" is actually in operation. It is the fervent 
 hope of Londoners, and Scotsmen in London, that the system will be 
 extended. The handsome court-yard of the Savoy Hotel, with its 
 gilded statue, demands more than passing notice. Next door is the 
 Hotel Cecil, and between them the Savoy Theatre, sacred to the 
 productions of Gilbert and Sullivan. Simpson's restaurant, near at 
 hand, prides itself on its old English fare, and the '"Cole Hole" 
 perpetuates in its name, though in little else, the wine cellars that 
 were once a great feature of Bohemian lite in London. Savoy Street, 
 on the right, leads to the Savoy Chapel, where the conference met for 
 the revision of the Liturgy at the Restoration. The chapel dates back 
 four centuries, and has many quaint features, including a pulpit hour- 
 glass tor measurino; the length of the sermon. 
 
 Returning to the Strand and still moving eastward, you come to 
 Wellington Street, leading south over Waterloo Bridge to Waterloo 
 Station, the terminus of the South Western Railway, where boat 
 
 3° 
 
Along the Strand and Fleet Street 
 
 Somerset House 
 
 trains from Southampton and Plymouth arrive. To the north Wel- 
 lington Street takes you past the Lyceum Theatre, the scene of 
 living's greatest triumphs, and to Covent Garden. Visit Covent 
 Garden in the early morning and you may see the choicest flowers 
 that money can buy in the metropolis; in the evening Covent Garden 
 Theatre, especially if it be a gala night at the opera, offers a brilliant 
 sight which not even Paris could eclipse; and in the wee sma' hours 
 the place may be given over to the wild revelry of a fancy dress ball. 
 
 Further along the Strand from Wellington Street you see the bold, 
 bald frontage of the Gayety Theatre, and next on the right the gloomy 
 portals of Somerset House, where the Inland Revenue has its offices, 
 where births, deaths, and marriages are recorded, and wills are kept. 
 The wills of Shakespeare, Newton, Van Dyck, and Dr. Johnson may 
 be inspected there on payment of a small fee. The church in the 
 middle of the roadway is St. Mary le Strand, where Dickens's parents 
 were married, and in front of which a Maypole once stood. A nar- 
 row lane to the south leads to a Roman bath, which has existed there 
 since the Roman occupation of the city. Passing the Gladstone 
 Statue, in front of the Church of St. Clement Danes (where Dr. 
 Johnson worshipped), you see the opening of Kingsway, which was 
 
 3 1 
 
Along the Strand and Fleet Street 
 
 cut through a slum area, and find yourself at the Royal Courts of 
 justice, built at a cost of three million pounds, for accommodating 
 the officers of the law and yet too small tor its purpose. Close at 
 hand is Temple Bar, the city boundary, where the King has still to 
 ask the Lord Mayor's permission to enter the city precincts. 
 
 You are now in Fleet Street, the haunt of journalists without 
 number. Every window bears the name of some well-known publi- 
 cation, many of them with "the greatest circulation in the world"; 
 here the Great Public are enlightened on the billion and one subjects 
 that engage their minds. The street has been famous to literature 
 of the press for centuries. The "Cock" Inn is familiar to readers of 
 Tennyson, and memories of Izaak Walton linger round the end of 
 Chancery Lane, where he had his shop. In the neighboring church 
 of St. Dunstan he is also remembered. The arched gateway oppo- 
 site, under the half-timbered house, leads to the Temple, now the 
 abode of lawyers, once the home of the Knights Templars, whose 
 round church may still be seen. Goldsmith is buried in the Tem- 
 ple churchyard, and for every reader of Charles Lamb the Tem- 
 ple will be rich in memories. Every court, and there are many 
 in Fleet Street, has its history. In Bolt Court Dr. Johnson lived and 
 died; in Gough Square most of his great dictionary was written, and 
 at the "Cheshire Cheese" he and Goldsmith are said to have fore- 
 gathered in convivial hours, and their seats may still be used by the 
 ordinary diner there. In Gunpowder Alley, off Shoe Lane, Richard 
 Lovelace, who wrote "stone walls do not a prison make," died mis- 
 erably poor. Milton once lodged in St. Bride's churchyard, and in 
 the church itself Wynkin de Worde the printer and Richardson the 
 novelist lie buried. But we are brought back to modern times by 
 the raucous cries of the "extry speshul," while the extensive offices 
 of Cook's Travel Bureau in Ludgate Circus remind lis that we are 
 far from home. 
 
 (Return to Piccadilly Circus by motor-bus; fare, one penny.) 
 
 32 
 
Walk N 'umber Nine 
 
 LUDGATE HILL AND 
 CHEAPSIDE TO THE BANK 
 
 iW ll WUmw&'t i 
 
 >L + 
 
 -*. jM 
 
 ■PiiW" & 
 
 "~» THATS'U; . 
 
 vmm- In; r 
 
 
 
 < iJflSv-: « Sup - 
 
 
 
 Wn f* 
 
 
 
 
 ■S7. Paul's from Fleet Street 
 
 AGAIN a penny ride on a motor-bus will take you from 
 Piccadilly Circus to Ludgate Circus, where we start on our 
 ninth stroll through London. In Ludgate Circus may be 
 seen two monuments, one erected to the memory of a fa- 
 mous London citizen named Waithman and the other to Wilkes, the 
 advocate of "Liberty." A little to the north stands the Memorial 
 Hall, on the sight of the notorious Fleet Prison where Mr. Pickwick 
 was confined, and where, in the old days, irregular marriages were 
 readily performed by a dissolute clergyman " for a drain of gin or roll 
 of tobacco." The view up Ludgate Hill (so called from the Lud 
 Gate which once stood there) is somewhat marred by the railway 
 bridge, and the bend of the thoroughfare hides the point of St. Paul's, 
 
Ludgate Hill and Cheapside 
 
 a disaster which would have been impossible had Wren's plan of 
 laying out the city after the great fire been adopted. fust under 
 the bridge, on the left, is the carpet emporium of Sir William Tre- 
 loar, who, perhaps, is better known as a popular ex-Lord Mayor, 
 and the inventor of the scheme by which thousands of poor crippled 
 children receive a hamper of good things every Christmas. The 
 premises of Hope Brothers stands at the corner of the Old Bailey, a 
 narrow thoroughfare containing the head-quarters of the Band of 
 Hope temperance organization, situated between two liquor saloons, 
 and at the end of the street is the Central Criminal Court, occupying 
 the site of Newgate Gaol, which the Gordon rioters wrecked, as is 
 told in " Barnaby Rudge." In St. Sepulchre's Church, hard by, is the 
 tomb of Captain John Smith, sometime Governor of Virginia, and 
 the friend of Pocahontas. Further on, along Giltspur Street, if one 
 cares to take the walk, may be seen Little Britain, well known to 
 readers of Washington Irving, and the Charterhouse, so touchingly 
 described by Thackeray in "The Newcomes," where Roger Williams, 
 the founder of Rhode Island, was partly educated. 
 
 But let us go back to Ludgate Hill and make our way to St. 
 Paul's Cathedral. From the beginning of the seventh century a 
 Christian church has stood on this site. The immediate predeces- 
 sor of the present building was destroyed in the great fire of 1666. 
 The Cathedral, as we see it now, is due to the genius of architecture. 
 Sir Christopher Wren, who was engaged for thirty-five years on the 
 task, at a salary of two hundred pounds a year. The cost of the 
 Cathedral was over a million pounds, its length is five hundred and 
 fifteen feet, height three hundred and sixty-five feet, and the golden 
 ball at the top will comfortably hold ten persons. 
 
 Great Paul, the largest bell in England, weighs seventeen tons 
 and is rung daily at one o'clock. At the base of the steps, as you 
 enter, you may see the inscription marking the spot where Queen 
 Victoria gave public thanks lor having reigned sixty years. The 
 interior has a somewhat cold appearance, but the addition of a 
 reredos, some beautiful mosaic work in the choir, and the decoration 
 of the dome are gradually adding the beauty of color to the old 
 building. Monuments abound on every side and beneath. In the 
 crypt below lie Nelson (immediately under the centre of the dome), 
 Wellington, Christopher Wren ("Reader, if thou seekest his monu- 
 ment, look around," says his memorial tablet), and a host of famous 
 
 34 
 
to the Bank 
 
 painters, including Benjamin West (the American Quaker artist who 
 helped to found the British Royal Academy), Reynolds, Lawrence, 
 Turner, Opie, Leighton, and Millais. In the north aisle you may- 
 see monuments of General Gordon and the Duke of Wellington. 
 Watts's paintings, "Time, Death, and judgment" and "Peace and 
 Goodwill," hang in the nave, and not far away is Holman Hunt's 
 "Light of the World." 
 
 Outside again we are in "London's central roar." A little to the 
 south of the Cathedral is Bell Yard, whence Richard Ouincy wrote 
 the only letter extant, addressed to Shakespeare, requesting a loan of 
 thirty pounds. Round the Cathedral range many excellent shops, 
 mostly appealing to the fair, and under an archway on the north you 
 may reach Paternoster Row, now given over to booksellers, the trade 
 descendants of those who sold paternosters in pre-Reformation days. 
 At Stationers' Hall, at the foot of the Row, all books published in 
 England must be sent to secure copyright. 
 
 The other end of the Row finds us near the statue of Sir Robert 
 Peel, who abolished the Corn Laws, and at the beginning of Cheap- 
 side. To the north may be seen the heavy frontage of the General 
 Post Office. The apprentice no longer deafens your ears with the 
 cry of "What d'ye lack ?" but Cheapside, crowded from end to end 
 with good shops, is not less importunate in its commercialism than of 
 yore. It is the thoroughfare where our ancestors used to "cheapen" 
 or bargain; jewellers, tailors, and outfitters particularly favor it 
 to-day, and branching off" 
 right and left are Milk 
 Street, Bread Street, Fri- 
 day Street, and Honeylane 
 Market, showing the kind 
 of business once carried 
 on in these narrow thor- 
 oughfares. 
 
 A little way along on 
 the right of Cheapside 
 stands Bow Church, one 
 of Wren's finest examples. 
 If you are born within 
 sound of Bow Bells, you 
 are a Cockney, but in Cheapside 
 
 35 
 
Ludgate Hill to the Bank 
 
 these noisy modern times their sweet music can scarcely be heard 
 as far away as Highgate Hill, whence they recalled the runaway 
 Dick Whittington to return to be "thrice Mayor of London." A 
 tablet outside the church tells us that Milton was born in the 
 neighboring Bread Street, in a house now demolished. 
 
 King Street, on the left, leads us to the Guildhall, a splendid 
 building dating from the early years of the fifteenth century, which, 
 like many others in London, loses in effect by being hemmed in by 
 mean and shabby houses. The Guildhall is the centre of London 
 civic life, where the Lord Mayor, the sheriffs, and the members of 
 Parliament for the city are elected, where every king who visits 
 London is entertained, and where, on Lord Mayor's day, various 
 members of the government make pronouncements which rarely 
 come up to expectations either in lucidity or value. British politics 
 are not determined by after-dinner speeches. From the gallery of the 
 great hall the giant figures of Gog and Magog, which were formerly 
 carried in procession through the city, look down. Attached to the 
 Guildhall is a very fine library and reading-room, and the Museum 
 and Art Gallerv cannot be ignored by any one interested in London 
 history and antiquities. 
 
 The streets of old Jewry, near by the Guildhall, recalls the ancient 
 settlement of the jews in London: at the corner of Ironmonger Lane 
 stands the Hall of the Mercer's Company, which has an income of 
 one hundred thousand pounds a year, and across the road one may 
 see an ancient shop sign in the form of the quaint figures which 
 strike the hours on Bennett's clock. Cheapside passes into the 
 Poultry, and then, as one reaches the shop of Mappin & Webb, the 
 famous silversmiths, one is close to the Bank. 
 
 (Return to Piccadilly by "tube" from the Bank, changing at 
 Oxford Circus.) " « 
 
 36 
 
Walk Number Ten 
 
 FROM THE BANK TO THE TOWER BRIDGE 
 
 THE QUICKEST WAY FROM PICCADILLY, OUR CENTRE, TO 
 THE BANK IS BY "TUBE," CHANGING AT OXFORD CIRCUS 
 
 The Bank of England 
 
 IN this small open space we are in the heart of London, the very 
 centre of the world's financial operations. To our left lies the 
 Bank of England; in front is the Royal Exchange; to the 
 right is the Mansion House. From the various subways 
 emerge thousands of passengers from the "tube" and ways converg- 
 ing deep beneath our feet; while a constant stream of motor-buses, 
 cabs, carts, and "taxis," to the number of seven hundred per hour, 
 pass to and fro, obedient as children to the uplifted arm of the police- 
 man who regulates the traffic. 
 
 The Bank of England is the windowless building at the corner of 
 Threadneedle and Prince's Streets. It was founded by an enterpris- 
 ing Scotsman named Paterson, more than two centuries ago, and has 
 gradually increased its business and strength until it can resist all 
 the financial winds that blow. About fifty thousand notes are issued 
 daily there, and in its triplet strong vaults lie twenty million pounds 
 in gold and silver, a magnificent booty for any gang ot thieves who 
 could reach it. Since the Gordon rioters attacked the Bank in 1780, 
 the premises have been guarded at night by soldiers, who may be 
 
 37 
 
From the Bank 
 
 seen marching in at six o'clock, and some of the clerks are also kept 
 on duty during the hours of darkness. Opposite the Bank, between 
 Threadneedle Street and Cornhill, stands the Royal Exchange, 
 founded by Sir Thomas Gresham in 157 1. A statue of Wellington, 
 looking like a circus-rider, stands before the entrance. Over the 
 portico runs the legend, "The earth is the Lord's and the fulness 
 thereof." The inner hall, once open to the sky, contains statues of 
 Queen Elizabeth, Charles II, and Queen Victoria, but its chief 
 glory lies in the magnificent frescoes by famous artists, representing 
 scenes in British history, such as Nelson embarking for the last 
 time. King John sealing Magna Charta, Whittington dispensing his 
 charities, and William the Conqueror granting a charter to the citizens 
 of London. In one corner of the Exchange the world-wide business 
 of "Lloyd's," underwriters of every possible form of risk, is con- 
 ducted. At the back of the Exchange a statue of George Peabody, 
 the American philanthropist, may be seen. 
 
 The Mansion House is the official residence of the Lord Mayor. 
 The building is not imposing without, nor beautiful within — it was 
 as good as the eighteenth century could do — and its best feature is the 
 Egyptian Hall, where the Lord Mayor entertains his guests, and the 
 old-time customs of hospitality, such as the passing round of the lov- 
 ing cup, are rigidly observed. 
 
 We leave Lombard Street (so called from the Lombard money 
 changers who did business there), on our left, and also the Church 
 of St. Mary Woolnoth, where Newton, Cowper's friend, was buried, 
 and pass down the strictly commercial King William Street on our 
 way to London Bridge. The monument on Fish Street Hill, erected 
 to commemorate the great fire, may be ascended for threepence, but, 
 as the man in "Martin Chuzzlewit" said, it's worth twice the money 
 to stay on the ground. London Bridge is the best known^pot in the 
 world, and one of the busiest, for forty thousand vehicles alone trav- 
 erse it a day. Before crossing the Bridge one might like to visit the 
 unsavory quarter of Billingsgate, where the odor of fish is only 
 equalled by the language of the fish-porters. Go at five o'clock in the 
 morning if you wish to hear Anglo-Saxon in the rough. 
 
 Once across the Bridge and you are in the " borough " of South- 
 wark, whence from the Tabard Inn, now demolished, Chaucer de- 
 spatched his pilgrims to Canterbury. Lower down, at the White 
 Hart, Mr. Pickwick and Sam Weller met for the first time; in the 
 
 38 
 
to the Toiver Bridge 
 
 The Tower of London 
 
 Marshalsea, Dickens, as a child, had painful experiences; in Lant 
 Street lived Bob Sawyer, and in St. George's Church Little Dorrit 
 was married. Of more natural interest to Americans, perhaps, is 
 Southwark Cathedral, standing; at the foot of the Bridge, one of the 
 most ancient churches of London, and full of historical and literary 
 associations. In the Ladv Chapel many of the Protestant martyrs 
 in Mary's reign were condemned to the stake. John Harvard, the 
 founder of Harvard University, was baptized here in 1607, and is 
 commemorated by a beautiful window in the Chapel of St. John 
 the Divine. There is also a memorial of William Emerson, and in 
 the Cathedral, too, lie the remains of Shakespeare's brother Edmund 
 and the dramatists Massinger and Fletcher. The site ol Shake- 
 speare's Globe Theatre, a little to the westward of the Cathedral, is 
 now occupied by a brewery. 
 
 Between London Bridge and the Tower Bridge, looming in the 
 east, is the "pool" of London, crowded with shipping from every 
 clime, and on the left bank stands the Tower. The most interesting 
 route there is by way of Eastcheap, where FalstafF held high revel 
 at the Boar's Head, and past the ancient church of All Hallows, 
 Barking, where the founder of Pennsylvania, born on the east side of 
 Tower Hill, was baptized, and John Ouincy Adams was married. 
 
 39 
 
From the Bank to the Tower Bridge 
 
 On Tower Hill is the site of the scaffold where many of England's 
 bravest and best met their death by the headman's axe. The Tower 
 itself dates from the Conqueror's day. A fortress, a prison, a place 
 of execution (Anne Boleyn and Lady Jane Grey were beheaded 
 here), a royal residence, and now a fortress and museum only, it has 
 dominated London for eight centuries. To know the Tower in 
 detail is to know English history thoroughly. The Yeomen of the 
 Guard, whose uniform has remained unchanged since the day of 
 Henry VIII, stand on duty at all interesting points, showing the way 
 to the Traitor's Gate, whither offenders against the law, or the caprice 
 of a king, were brought by water; to the Armory, the various Towers, 
 or the collection of Crown Jewels. The jewels consist of the King's 
 crown, sceptre, orb, state sword, and other regalia. The Cullinan 
 Diamond, presented to the King by the Transvaal, is also on view. 
 
 Near by the Tower stands the Royal Mint and the Trinity House 
 which controls the lightsand buoys roundthe British coast; but of more 
 popular interest is the Tower Bridge, costing one million five hundred 
 thousand pounds, the novel features of which are the two bascules 
 which are raised to allow large vessels to pass up and down the river. 
 
 (Return to Piccadilly by the District Railway from Mark Lane 
 station, changing at Charing.) 
 
 Tower Bridge 
 
 40 
 
Walk Number Eleven 
 
 HAYMARKET, PALL MALL 
 AND ST. JAMES'S STREET 
 
 The Hay-market 
 
 NOT much hay is to be seen in the Haymarket nowadays, 
 but it was not until 1830 that hay and straw dealing was 
 abolished there, and the street entirely given over to actors, 
 authors, artists, and the like. The chiet building now is 
 His Majesty's Theatre, where Sir Herbert Beerbohm Tree holds a 
 high place in English esteem, since living's death. His theatre 
 .stands on the site of the Royal Italian Opera House. Across the way 
 is the Haymarket Theatre, with nearly two centuries of history behind 
 it. It was here, in 1734, that Fielding's "Historical Register," so 
 cleverly satirized Sir Robert Walpole, the Prime Minister, that the act 
 was passed by which the Lord Chamberlain's license has to be ob- 
 tained before a play can be produced — a restriction under which dar- 
 ing dramatists of to-day loudly complain. Of shops in the Haymar- 
 
 41 
 
H a\ market, Pall Mall 
 
 ket there are tew, hut Fribourg & Freyer, the tohacconists, calls tor 
 note by means of its quaint old bulging windows, and the fact that 
 for many years it was patronized by the Prince Regent and the 
 ''bucks" of his day. 
 
 At the bottom of the Haymarket, where it joins Pall Mall, stands 
 Carlton Hotel, one of the great palace-homes which of late years have 
 made London more comfortable to the traveller. The trees that 
 lined Pall Mall in Pepys's day have long since vanished, but it still 
 has a "sweet shady side" and retains all its old popularity among 
 London clubmen. Pall Mall itself is mainly devoted to clubs and 
 clubmen, though a few shops, hardly less aristocratic, are suffered 
 in its precincts. As you proceed westward you notice, at the corner 
 of Waterloo Place, the Athenaeum Club, where cabinet ministers, 
 literary men, and bishops most do congregate. Next door is the 
 Travellers' Club, and then the Reform Club, the home of Liberals, 
 who built it after the parliamentary agitation of seventy years ago. 
 As a balance to its influence stands (next door) the Carlton Club, the 
 haughtiest of conservative clubs in the world. The Junior Carlton 
 is across the way, and a narrow thoroughfare leads to St. James's 
 Square, round which Samuel Johnson and Savage, not having 
 
 enough money to pay for a bed, 
 tramped all one dreary night, 
 argued politics, swore they 
 would die for their country. 
 Neither had occasion to do so. 
 St. James's Square, formed in 
 the time of Charles II, who 
 often visited his questionable 
 friends here, now boasts among 
 its residents the Bishop of Lon- 
 don, the Duke of Norfolk, and 
 other eminent folk. A short 
 street at the corner of the square 
 leads you back again to Pall 
 Mall, at the point where the 
 Army and -Navy Club has its 
 premises, and, after passing 
 many similar institutions, you 
 St. James's Palace pause before the high wall of 
 
 42 
 
uul St. James's Street 
 
 Pall Mall 
 
 Marlborough House, the town residence of the Prince of Wales. 
 Here the Duke of Marlborough, the victor of Blenheim and Ra- 
 millies, passed away, and his widow, the redoubtable "Sarah," gave 
 him such a magnificent funeral as London had rarely seen. Fifty 
 years afterward she, too, went the way of all flesh. 
 
 There is no need to spend time on St. James's Palace — -you have 
 seen it already from the Mall — except to note its fine Holbein gateway 
 and the "love-knots" of Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn on the side 
 doors. Beyond the Palace is Stafford House, the most magnificent 
 private residence in London, splendid in its decoration and still more 
 splendid in its art treasures. Queen Victoria spoke truly when she 
 said to a former duchess: "I have come from my house to your 
 palace. 
 
 St. James's Street retains its old character of being the most 
 fashionable thoroughfare in London. Every other house is a club, 
 and has been for generations; every club is the haunt of the wealthy 
 elite. To write their history in full would be to write the history of 
 the upper ten thousand for the last two centuries. There is Brooks's 
 Club, once the head-quarters of the Whigs, where dignity reigns su- 
 
 43 
 
Haymarketj Pall Mall and St. James's Street 
 
 preme. "Dining at Brooks's," it was once said, "is like dining at 
 a duke's house with the duke lying dead upstairs." Play is by no 
 means so heavy as it was in the old days — it was started as a gaming 
 club — and one is not likely to witness a repetition of the scene when 
 Beau Brummel won heavily from Alderman Combe, the brewer, 
 and told him that in future he would drink his porter only. "I wish 
 every other blackguard would tell me that," retorted the irate loser. 
 Boodle's Club is the favorite resort of country gentlemen and masters 
 of hounds, and the story goes that when the waiter enters and calls 
 "Sir John!" every other head is turned toward him. Crackford's 
 was started by a fish salesman who made so much money that he was 
 said to have "absorbed the entire ready money of a generation and 
 much of its landed estate." Farther along is the Cocoa Tree, keep- 
 ing the name if not the habits of the old chocolate house where Tories 
 ■and [acobites once resorted, and where play for stakes as high as one 
 hundred thousand pounds was once indulged in. The Thatched 
 House Club recalls the rural days of St. James's that are no more. 
 White's, originally White's Chocolate House, was established in the 
 later years of the seventeenth century and speedily became the resort 
 of wealthy and aristocratic gamesters. Harley never passed its 
 portals without cursing it as the house of half the nobility of his day. 
 
 King Street, a turning on the right out of St. James's Street, is a 
 street of many memories and much present-day interest. In a house 
 at the far-end, indicated by a tablet, lived Louis Napoleon, passing 
 his time serving as a special constable during the Chartists' riots, and 
 plotting and waiting for the day when the turn of fortune's wheel 
 would lift him to the throne of France. Willis's restaurant occu- 
 pies the site of the Almack Club, entree to which was once as good as 
 presentation at Court, and near at hand are the auction rooms of 
 Messrs. Christie, the famous dealers in old and new pictures and 
 every other kind of work of art. 
 
 (Return to Piccadilly Circus by walking up Duke Street and 
 turning right into Piccadilly.) 
 
 44 
 
Walk A 'umber Twelve 
 
 DOWN THE EAST END 
 
 MOTOR-BUS FROM PICCADILLY CIRCUS TO ALDGATE PUMP 
 
 KIPLING might have had the East End of London in mind 
 when he wrote that "East is East and West is West and 
 never the twain shall meet." East of Aldgate Pump you 
 find yourself in a distinctly foreign quarter where the Jew 
 predominates. In the railway stations the notices are printed in 
 Yiddish as well as in English and many of the policemen find it an 
 advantage to understand both tongues. The shop signs and the 
 public announcements are printed in Yiddish, and the language, or 
 one of its variants, is heard on every hand; there is a theatre where 
 Jewish plays are prepared; in fact the Jews are everywhere. Of the 
 economic effects of 
 this invasion, which 
 Mr. Charles Booth 
 has compared to the 
 "slow-rising of a 
 flood," there is not 
 space to speak, but it 
 must be added that 
 so far as morality 
 is concerned many 
 parts of the East 
 End of London have 
 been made cleaner 
 and more whole- 
 some since the "in- 
 vaders" appeared 
 on the scene. 
 
 Aldgate Pump, 
 near the site of one 
 ot the ancient gates 
 of the city, is our 
 starting-place. On 
 the left is Hounds- 
 
 A Street in Whitechapel 
 
 45 
 
Down the East End 
 
 ditch, full from end to end with toymakers, and behind this Bevis 
 Marks, where Sampson and Sally Brass lived; and on the right is the 
 Minories leading to Tower Hill. Straight ahead stretches Whitechapel 
 High Street, but we must turn aside for a moment into Middlesex 
 Street, still known as "Petticoat Lane," where a thriving out-door 
 market is held every Sunday morning, where you can get a complete 
 outfit of clothes, furniture, books, ironmongery, or watches, have your 
 teeth extracted or have your ailments cured by medicine of universal 
 application. It used to be said that if you entered Petticoat Lane 
 at one end with a watch in your pocket, it would be offered to 
 you for sale at the other end of the street, but this is only a base 
 Gentile libel. 
 
 Whitechapel is not as bad as its name implies. It is neither 
 dreary nor lifeless. There is a weekly hay market which adds a 
 touch of rusticity to the scene, and the neighboring butcher shops are 
 singularly like the booths of old London. Culture is represented at 
 the local Art Gallery, which is the permanent successor of a loan 
 exhibition of pictures arranged for many years by Canon Barnett. 
 Turn off to the right for a tew minutes and you come to St. [ude's 
 Church, one of the brightest spots in the East End, where the Canon, 
 not forgetting his wife, has ministered for many years. The Canon 
 has an abiding belief in pictures. Outside his church you will see a 
 beautiful mosaic by G. F. Watts; inside are four copies of pictures by 
 the same famous artist, finished by his own hand. Near by stands 
 Toynbee Hall, a university settlement, whither come young men 
 from Oxford and Cambridge, full of hope, enthusiasm and sympathy, 
 to share and, if possible, to understand the life of the poor. 
 
 Let us go on ahead past the London Hospital, where a thousand 
 patients are accommodated, past the Trinity Almshouses tor old 
 sailors, and the house where Captain Cook lived, and so on down 
 the broad Mile End Road to the People's Palace. If you have read 
 Besant's "All Sorts and Conditions of Men" you will understand 
 what the palace is for and how it came about. The funds for its 
 erection were provided by a wealthy citizen named Beaumont and the 
 still wealthier Drapers' Company — one of the old city companies — 
 and its purpose is to give instruction and recreation to the thousands 
 of tailors living in the East End, who may enjoy the technical classes, 
 the library, the baths, the gymnasium, or the swimming-baths as 
 their hearts' desire. 
 
 46 
 
Down the East End 
 
 Just beyond the People's Palace you come to Burdett Road, along 
 which a tram-car will convey you to Limehouse, a convenient centre 
 for exploring the London docks. A mile or more away, across the 
 Isle of Dogs, is the tunnel leading under the river to Greenwich — well 
 worth a visit for its Hospital, Park, and Observatory — and in an east- 
 erly direction is the Blackwell Tunnel which is six thousand two 
 hundred feet long, and cost one million five hundred thousand pounds. 
 Let us turn our faces westward and, by devious routes and inquiries 
 from the obliging policemen, work our way back. Across the river 
 lie the Surrey Commercial Docks; near at hand we have Stepney, 
 where people come no longer, as Erasmus did, "to drink your fresh 
 air, my Colet, to drink yet deeper of your rural peace," but whither 
 thousands of children are brought every year to Dr. Barnardo's 
 refuge homes. You may pass on to inspect Ratchfre Highway, of evil 
 memories, as readers of De Ouincey know, or turn off to Wapping. 
 At Wapping Station begins Brunei's Thames Tunnel, first of the 
 kind, which took eighteen years to bore. Across the "pool " of the 
 river is Rotherhithe and Jacob's Island, the scene of Bill Sykes's at- 
 tempt to escape from the angry mob who desired to take his life. 
 Wapping is a place of unhappy memories. For centuries it was the 
 scene where pirates were hanged, and here judge Jeffreys, disguised 
 as a sailor, was discovered in hiding, but painful facts like these give 
 way to the pleasanter fancies inspired by Dibdin's ballad of "Wap- 
 ping Old Stairs" — still to be seen abutting on the river. Behind 
 Wapping are the London docks, and the people hereabouts arc 
 mostly concerned with the ships that sweep up the river from every 
 part of the globe, bearing timber, wine, corn, wool, ivory, spices, and 
 what not from distant lands. It is said that in the London docks 
 alone the warehouses can store a quarter of a million tons of goods, 
 and the gangways of the wine vaults are thirty miles long. Keeping 
 as near to the riverside as the streets will allow, you come in half a 
 mile or so to the Tower Bridge, the magnificent portal forming a 
 splendid entrance to the wealthiest and greatest city in the world. 
 And so home, as Pepys would say. 
 
 (Return to Piccadilly Circus by District Railway from Mark 
 Lane, changing at Charing Cross to Bakerloo " tube." 
 
 47 
 
CLASSIFIED LIST 
 
 ANTIQUES 
 
 Gill & Reigate, 
 Lichfield Galleries, 
 W. & E. Thornton Smith, 
 Miss Falcke, 
 Horsfield Bros., 
 Anne Austin, Ltd., 
 
 75, Oxford Street, W. 
 
 3, Bruton Street, W. 
 
 n, Soho Square, W. 
 
 30, Dover Street, W. 
 
 1 g, Orchard Street, W. 
 
 41, New Bond Street, W. 
 
 ART DEALERS 
 
 Franz Hanfstaengl, 
 Arthur Ackermann & Son, 
 Henry Graves & Co., Ltd., 
 I. P. Mendoza, Ltd., 
 Albert Amor, 
 Shepherd Bros., 
 
 16, Pall Mall East, S. W. 
 
 igi, Regent Street, W. 
 
 6, Pall Mall, S. W. 
 
 157, New Bond Street, \Y. 
 
 31, St. James Street, S. W. 
 
 27, King Street, St. James, S. W. 
 
 AMERICAN DRUGGISTS 
 
 American Drug Stores Co. 
 James Heppell & Co., 
 J. Munro & Co., Ltd 
 
 NURTHEN & Co., 
 
 4, Northumberland Avenue. 
 
 35, Haymarket, and 77, Strand. 
 
 273, Regent Street, W. 
 
 390, Strand. 
 
 COMPLEXION SPECIA LIS IS 
 
 Mlle. Helena Rubinstein, 
 Miss Hilliard, 
 Mrs. Adair, 
 Helen Best, Ltd., 
 Mrs. Pomeroy, Ltd., 
 Veronique, Ltd., 
 
 24, Grafton Street, Bond Street. 
 
 24a, Albemarle Street. 
 
 92, New Bond Street. 
 
 536, Oxford Street. 
 
 29, Old Bond Street. 
 
 14-15, Conduit Street, W. 
 
 5o 
 
CHINA AND GLASS 
 
 Powell & Sons, 
 
 Mortlocks, Ltd., 
 
 Osler, Ltd., 
 
 Soane & Smith, 
 
 Phillips, Ltd., 
 
 Josiah Wedgwood & Sons, 
 
 26, Tudor Street, E. C. 
 
 466-470, Oxford Street, W. 
 
 100, Oxford Street, W. 
 
 462, Oxford Street. 
 
 43-44, New Bond Street, W. 
 
 108, Hatton Garden, E. C. 
 
 Worcester Royal Porcelain Co., 8, St. Andrews St., Holborn Circus. 
 
 DRAPERS 
 
 Peter Robinson, 
 Woolland Bros., 
 Swan & Edgar, Ltd., 
 Dickins & Jones, Ltd., 
 Marshall & Snelgrove, 
 John Barker & Co., Ltd., 
 Debenham & Freebody, 
 
 Oxford Street and Regent Street, W. 
 
 95-107, Knightsbridge, S. W. 
 
 Piccadilly Circus, W T . 
 
 226-244, Regent Street, W. 
 
 Oxford Street, W. 
 
 High Street, Kensington, YY. 
 
 Wigmore Street, W. 
 
 DRESSMAKERS AND COSTUMIERS 
 
 Mrs. Oliver, 
 
 Caleys, Ltd., 
 
 Kate Reilley, Ltd., 
 
 Charlton, 
 
 Madame A. M. Hayward, 
 
 Viola, Ltd., 
 
 Paquin, Ltd., 
 
 Redfern, Ltd., 
 
 115, New Bond Street, W. 
 
 18, Albemarle Street, W. 
 
 1 1 -1 2, Dover Street, W. 
 
 53, Manchester Street, W. 
 
 67-68, New Bond Street, W. 
 
 27, Albemarle Street, W. 
 
 30, Dover Street, W. 
 
 Conduit Street, W. 
 
 GENERAL STORES 
 
 Army & Navy Stores, 
 
 Harrods, Ltd., 
 
 William Whiteley, Ltd., 
 
 Shoolbred & Co., 
 
 Junior Army and Navy Stores, 
 
 Sklfridge & Co., Ltd., 
 
 Victoria Street, S. W 
 
 Brompton Road, S. W 
 
 Westbourne Grove, W 
 
 Tottenham Court Road, W 
 
 Regent Street, S. W 
 
 Oxford Street, W 
 
 5i 
 
GENTLEMEN'S TAILORS 
 
 Jenkinson & Allardyce, 
 
 Carr Son & Landon, 
 
 Ernest Arlington, 
 
 J. Deck & Sons, 
 
 Alfred Webb Miles &: Co., 
 
 Burberry & Co., 
 
 Aquascutum, Ltd., 
 
 31, Brook Street, W. 
 
 7, New Burlington Street, W. 
 
 42, Piccadilly, W. 
 
 13, Conduit Street. \Y. 
 
 10, Brook Street, W. 
 
 32, Havmarket, S. W. 
 
 100, Regent Street, W. 
 
 GENTS HOSIERS AND OUTFITTERS 
 
 Austin Reed, 
 Beale & Inman, Ltd., 
 Thomas Wing, 
 Edward Lodge & Co., 
 J \\n:s Drew, 
 Harborqws, 
 Threshes & Glenny, 
 
 13, Fenchurch Street, E. C. 
 
 131-132, New Bond Street, W. 
 
 44-45, Piccadilly, W. 
 
 15-16, Strand, W. C. 
 
 2, & 3, Burlington Arcade, W. 
 
 6-7, New Bond Street, W. 
 
 152-153, Strand, W. C. 
 
 GOLDSMITHS AND SILVERSMITHS 
 
 The Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Co. 
 
 Elkixoton & Co., Ltd., 
 
 Garrard & Co., 
 
 M um'in & Webb, 
 
 Skinner & Co., 
 
 Stewart Dawson & Co., Ltd., 
 
 Rood & Co., Ltd., 
 
 112, Regent Street, W. 
 
 22, Regent Street, W. 
 
 25, Havmarket, S. W. 
 
 158-162, Oxford Street, W. 
 
 5-6, Orchard Street, W. 
 
 19-21, Hatton Garden, E. C. 
 
 j 52, Burlington Arcade, W. 
 
 ( 73-79, Regent Street, W. 
 
 GUN AND RIFLE MAKERS 
 
 Holland & Holland, 98, New Bond Street, W. 
 
 Thomas Bland & Sons, 2, King William Street, W. C. 
 
 ( 'n \rles Lancaster & Co., Ltd., ii, Panton Street, Haymarket, S. W. 
 Richards (Westley) & Co., Ltd., 178, New Bond Street, W. 
 
 John Rigby & Co., 43, Sackville Street, W. 
 
 52 
 
HATTERS 
 
 Henry Heath, Ltd., 
 
 Lincoln Bennett & Co., Ltd., 
 
 Scotts, Ltd., 
 
 Pkf.edv & Co., 
 
 Glyn & Co., 
 
 J. Woodrow & Son, Ltd., 
 
 City Cork Hat Co., 
 
 ( 105-109, Oxford Street, W. 
 
 ( 62a, Piccadilly, \Y. 
 
 2, Sackville Street, W. 
 
 1, Old Bond Street, W. 
 
 23, Haymarket, S. W. 
 
 44, Old Bond Street, W. 
 
 46, Piccadilly, W. 
 
 45a, Cheapside, and Branches. 
 
 INTERIOR DECORATORS 
 
 White Allom & Co., 
 W. Turner Lord & Co., 
 George Trollope & Sons, 
 Cowtan & Sons, 
 Frank Collinson & Co., 
 Hampton & Sons, 
 Waring & Gillow, 
 
 15, George Street, Hanover Square. 
 
 20, Mount Street, W. 
 
 West Halkin Street, S. W. 
 
 309, Oxford Street, W. 
 
 24, Grafton Street, W. 
 
 Pall Mall East, S. W. 
 
 Oxford Street, \V. 
 
 The Royal Irish Industries, 23, Motcomb Street, Belgrave Square, W. 
 Blackbourne & Co., 39, South Audley Street, W. 
 
 Hibernian Lace Co., i47 a > Regent Street, W. 
 
 Steinmann & Co., 185-186, Piccadilly, W. 
 
 LADIES' TAILORS 
 
 Fen wick Ltd., 
 H. Guterbock & Sons, 
 J. & G. Ross, Ltd., 
 Thomas & Sons, 
 Viola, Ltd., 
 Burberry & Co., 
 Aquascutum, Ltd., 
 
 62, New Bond Street, W. 
 
 8, Hanover Street, W. 
 
 32, Old Bond Street, W. 
 
 6, Brook Street, W. 
 
 27, Albemarle Street, W. 
 
 32, Haymarket, S. W. 
 
 100, Regent Street, W. 
 
 53 
 
LEATHER GOODS 
 
 J. C. VlCKERY, 
 
 ASPREY & CO., 
 
 John Pound & Co., 
 Drew & Sons, 
 Finnigans, Ltd., 
 
 179-183, Regent Street, W. 
 
 165, New Bond Street, W. 
 
 81-84, Leadenhall Street, E. C. 
 
 33-37, Piccadilly, W. 
 
 18, New Bond Street, W. 
 
 Robinson & Cleaver, Ltd., 
 John Wilson's Successors, Ltd., 
 Walpole Bros., Ltd., 
 Inglis & Tinckler, 
 National Linen Co., Ltd., 
 The Irish Linen Stores, 
 
 156-170, Regent Street, W. 
 
 188, Regent Street, \Y. 
 89-90, New Bond Street, W. 
 
 147, Regent Street, W. 
 130, New Bond Street, W. 
 112, New Bond Street, W. 
 
 MILLINERS 
 
 Mrs. Ritchie, 
 Mrs. SinnoNS, 
 Mrs. Harris, Ltd., 
 Gainsborough, Ltd., 
 
 293, Regent Street, W 
 
 13, South Molton Street, \Y 
 
 169-170, New Bond Street, YV 
 
 25, Hanover Square, \Y 
 
 MOTORS EOR HIRE 
 
 Automobiles De Luxe, Ltd., 
 Thomas Tilling, Ltd., 
 Electromobile Co., Ltd., 
 
 144, Offord Road, N.. (North 198). 
 
 High Street, Peckriam, S. W. 
 
 17, Hatford Street, Mayfair, W, 
 
 PERFUMERS 
 
 J. & E. Atkinson, Ltd. 
 
 James Floris, 
 
 PlESSE & LUBIN, 
 
 Egune Rimmel, Ltd., 
 
 28, 
 
 24, Old Bond Street, W. 
 
 89, Jermyn Street, S. W. 
 
 South Molton Street, W. 
 
 119, Regent Street, \Y. 
 
 54 
 
REAL ESTATE AGENTS 
 
 GlLLOWS, 
 
 Giddy & Giddy, 
 Hampton & Sons, 
 May & Rowden, 
 Knight Frank & Rutley, 
 Wilton &: Lee, 
 Osborn & Mercer, 
 Trollope, 
 F. J. Ronald, 
 
 181, Oxford Street, W. 
 
 na, Regent Street, S. W. 
 
 2-3, Cockspur Street, S. W. 
 
 27, Maddox Street, W. 
 
 9, Conduit Street, W. 
 
 10, Mount Street, W. 
 28b, Albemarle Street, \Y. 
 
 14, Mount Street, W. 
 72, Victoria Street, S. W. 
 
 RARE BOOKS 
 
 Maggs Bros., 
 
 Ellis Holdsworth & Smith, 
 
 Bernard Quaritch, 
 
 Henry Sotheran & Co., 
 
 Joseph Zaehnsdorf, 
 
 J. & E. Bumpus, Ltd., 
 
 109, Strand. 
 
 29, New Bond Street, W. 
 
 11, Grafton Street, Bond Street, W. 
 
 140, Strand, W. C. 
 
 144-146, Shaftesbury Avenue, W. 
 
 350, Oxford Street, W. 
 
 SPORTS' OUTFITTERS 
 
 Gamages, Holborn, E. C. 
 
 Lillywhite, Frowd & Co., 24, Haymarket, W. 
 
 A. G. Spalding & Bros., 817-818, High Holborn, and Branches. 
 William Park & Son, 115-117, Cannon Street, E. C. 
 
 (Golf Clubs, etc. only.) 
 
 TOBA CCONISTS 
 
 Bewlay & Co., 
 Allen & Wright, 
 Phillip Morris & Co., 
 H. L. Savory & Co., 
 Fribourg & Treyer, 
 Litsica Marx & Co., 
 Lowe & Co., 
 
 49, Strand, and Branches. 
 
 217, Piccadilly, W. 
 
 22, New Bond Street, W. 
 
 47, Piccadilly, W. 
 
 34, Haymarket, S. W. 
 
 140, High Holborn, W. C, and Branches. 
 
 62, Havmarket, S. \V. 
 
 55 
 
WINE AND SPIRIT MERCHANTS 
 
 John Haryky & Sons, 
 II \ i<ii, Mansfield & Co., 
 Hedges & Butler, 
 Fortnun & Mason, 
 Sandeman & Son, 
 
 Bristol. 
 
 47, Pall Mall, S. W. 
 155, Regent Street, W. 
 181-184, Piccadilly, W. 
 
 64, Pall Mall, S. W. 
 
 RESTAERANTS 
 
 Prince's 
 
 Dieudonne, 
 
 Imperial, 
 
 Cafe Royal, 
 
 Pagani's, 
 
 Frascati's, 
 
 HOLBORN, 
 
 Hatchett's, 
 
 Romano's, 
 Criterion, 
 The Trocadero, 
 Pall Mali., 
 Simpson's, 
 
 Piccadilly, W. 
 
 Ryder Street., St. James, S. W. 
 
 60-62, Regent Street, W. 
 
 Regent Street, W 
 
 42-48, Great Portland Street, W. 
 
 Oxford Street, W. 
 
 High Holborn. 
 
 Piccadilly, W. 
 
 Strand. 
 
 Piccadilly Circus, W. 
 
 Shaftesbury Avenue, W. 
 
 Hay market, S. W. 
 
 Strand, W. C. 
 
 LESS EXPENSI 1 /. REST A I RANTS 
 
 The Rendezvous, 
 
 Coventry, 
 
 Le Petit Riche, 
 
 The Florence, 
 
 Maxim's, 
 Pinoli's, 
 
 TlNELLl'S, 
 
 Dean Street, Soho, W. 
 
 Rupert Street, Piccadilly, W. 
 
 Old Compton Street, Soho, W. 
 
 Rupert Street, W. 
 
 Wardour Street, W. 
 
 Wardour Street, W. 
 
 102, Jermyn Street, S. W. 
 
 THEATRE' 
 
 Adi.i.imh Theatre, 
 Aldwych Theatre, 
 Apollo Theatre, 
 Comedo Theatre, 
 
 Strand. 
 
 Aldwych, Strand. 
 
 Shaftesbury Avenue. 
 
 Panton Street, Haymarket. 
 
 56 
 
THEATRES Continued 
 
 Court Theatre, 
 
 Criterion Theatre, 
 
 Daly's Theatre, 
 
 Duke of York's Theatre, 
 
 Gaiety Theatre, 
 
 Garrick Theatre, 
 
 Globe Theatre, 
 
 Haymarket Theatre, 
 
 His Majesty's Theatre, 
 
 Kingsway Theatre, 
 
 Lyric Theatre, 
 
 New Royalty, 
 
 New Theatre, 
 
 Prince of Wales Theatre, 
 
 Queen's Theatre, 
 
 St. James's Theatre, 
 
 Sayoy Theatre, 
 
 Scala Theatre, 
 
 Shaftesbury Theatre, 
 
 Strand Theatre, 
 
 Terry's Theatre, 
 
 The Playhouse, 
 
 Sloane Square. 
 Piccadilly Circus. 
 Cranbourn Street. 
 St. Martin's Lane. 
 Strand. 
 Charing Cross. 
 Shaftesbury Avenue, W. 
 Haymarket. 
 Haymarket. 
 Gt. Queen Street, Kingsway. 
 Shaftesbury Avenue. 
 Dean Street, Soho, W. 
 St. Martin's Lane. 
 Coventry Street, Piccadilly. 
 Shaftesbury Avenue. 
 King Street, St. James. 
 Strand. 
 Charlotte Street, Fitzroy Square. 
 Shaftesbury Avenue. 
 Aldwych, Strand. 
 Strand. 
 Northumberland Avenue. 
 
 Theatre Royal, Covent Garden Bow Street WC. 
 
 Theatre Royal, Drury Lane, Catherine Street, Covent Garden W. 
 „ Strand, \\ . U . 
 
 Vaudeville Theatre, 
 
 i TarATDr St. Martins Lane, \\ . t . 
 
 Wyndham's Iheatre, 
 
 VARIETY THEATRES 
 
 The Alhambra, 
 The Coliseum, 
 The Empire Theatre, 
 The Holborx, 
 London' Pavilion, 
 London Hippodrome, 
 The Oxford, 
 The Palace, 
 Tivoli, 
 
 Leicester Square. 
 
 Charing Cross Road. 
 
 Leicester Square. 
 
 High Holborn. 
 
 Piccadilly Circus. 
 
 Cranbourn Street, Leicester Square. 
 
 Oxford Street, W. 
 
 Shaftesbury Avenue. 
 
 Strand. 
 
 57 
 
CONCERT HALLS 
 
 Aeolian Hall, 
 Albert Hall, 
 Bechstein Hall, 
 Steinway Hall, 
 St. James's Hall, 
 Queen's Hall, 
 
 New Bond Street, W. 
 
 Kensington Gore. 
 
 Wigmore Street, W. 
 
 Lower Seymour Street, W. 
 
 Great Portland Street, W. 
 
 Portland Place, W. 
 
 Alexandra Hotel, 
 Berkeley Hotel, 
 Brown's Hotel, 
 Buckingham Palace Hotel, 
 Carlton Hotel, 
 Coburg Hotel, 
 Claridge's Hotel, 
 De Keyser's Hotel, 
 First Avenue Hotel, 
 Garlant's Hotel, 
 Grand Hotel, 
 Grosvenor Hotel, 
 Hans Crescent Hotel, 
 Hotel Cecil, 
 Hotel Curzon, 
 Hotel Great Central, 
 Hotel Russell, 
 Hotel Victoria, 
 Hotel Windsor, 
 Hyde Park Hotel, 
 Imperial Hotel, 
 Inns of Court Hotel, 
 Langham Hotel, 
 Long's Hotel, 
 Metropole Hotel, 
 Midland Grand Hotel, 
 Morley's Hotel, 
 Piccadilly Hotel, 
 
 Knightsbridge. 
 
 Piccadilly. 
 
 Dover Street. 
 
 Buckingham Gate. 
 
 Pall Mall. 
 
 Carlos Place, W. 
 
 Brook Street. 
 
 Victoria Embankment. 
 
 Holborn. 
 
 11-15, Suffolk Street, Pall Mall, East. 
 
 Northumberland Avenue. 
 
 Buckingham Palace Road. 
 
 Hans Crescent, S. \Y. 
 
 Strand. 
 
 56-60, Curzon Street, W. 
 
 Marylebone Road, N. W. 
 
 Russell Square, W. C. 
 
 Northumberland Avenue. 
 
 Victoria* Street, S. W. 
 
 Knightsbridge. 
 
 Russell Square. 
 
 Holborn. 
 
 Portland Place, W. 
 
 New Bond Street, W. 
 
 Northumberland Avenue. 
 
 Euston Road, N. W. 
 
 Trafalgar Square. 
 
 Piccadilly, YV. 
 
 5* 
 
HOTELS Continued 
 
 Royal Palace Hotel, 
 St. Ermins Hotel, 
 Savoy Hotel, 
 University Hotel, 
 Waldorf Hotel, 
 Westminster Palace Hotel, 
 York Hotel, 
 
 Kensington, W. 
 
 Caxton Street, S. W. 
 
 Strand. 
 
 Endsleigh Gardens. 
 
 Aldwych. 
 
 Victoria Street. 
 
 Albemarle Street, W. 
 
 LESS ESPENSIVE HOTELS 
 
 Arundel Hotel, 
 Hotel Gwalia, 
 Hotel Richelieu, 
 Loudoun Hotel, 
 Norfolk Hotel, 
 Portland Hotel, 
 Prince of Wales Hotel, 
 Strand Palace Hotel, 
 Tollard Royal Hotel, 
 Welbeck Palace Hotel, 
 
 Arundel Street, Strand. 
 
 Upper Woburn Place, W. C 
 
 Oxford Street, W. 
 
 Surrey Street, Strand. 
 
 Surrey Street, Strand. 
 
 Great Portland Street, W. 
 
 Kensington, W. 
 
 Strand. 
 
 Southampton Row. 
 
 Welbeck Street, W. 
 
 TEMPERANCE HOTELS 
 
 Ivanhoe Hotel, 
 Kenilworth Hotel, 
 Kingsley Hotel, 
 Thackeray Hotel, 
 Waverley Hotel, 
 West Central Hotel, 
 
 Bloomsbury Street. 
 
 Great Russell Street. 
 
 Hart Street, Bloomsbury. 
 
 Great Russell Street. 
 
 Southampton Row, W. C. 
 
 Southampton Row, W. C. 
 
 59 
 
BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENT 
 
 Messrs. White Allom & Co. 
 
 will be pleased to have 
 American visitors call on 
 them when in London 
 to view many examples 
 of decorative art. 
 
 15, George Street 
 Hanover Square 
 LONDON, W. 
 
The Largest Stock of 
 
 can be seen at 
 
 73-85, Oxford St. 
 
 Apart from the intrinsic value of 
 a fine collection of English 
 Antique Furniture— a value which 
 is always enhanced by the lapse of years, 
 owing to the ever growing scarcity of fine 
 specimens— the historical associations insepa- 
 rable from furniture of the 16th, 17th, and 18th 
 centuries renders such a possession one of the 
 most permanent and interesting links with 
 the Mother Country. 
 
 Samuel Buckley & Co. 
 
 Gill & 
 
Genuine Antiques in London 
 
 The So ho Galleries 
 
 London, England 
 
 In our Showrooms the largest and most varied 
 collection may be seen by visitors to London, 
 including completely panelled oak rooms of the 
 Tudor and Stuart period— removed from some 
 of the Historical Mansions of England, and in 
 which probably history itself was made. 
 We make a special point of inclusive quotations, 
 duty and freight included 
 in American currency, on 
 goods purchased through 
 our New York Agents: 
 
 244, Fifth Avenue 
 
 Reigate 
 

 J.CVICKERY 
 
 Their Majesties' 
 Jeweller, Silversmith 
 and Dressing Case 
 Manufacturer 
 
 VICKERY'S NEW 
 BAG-SHAPE 
 WRITING 
 CASES 
 
 VICKERY'S 
 EXPANDING 
 FINGER RING 
 WATCHES 
 
 Can be worn in the usual way, 
 
 or outside the glove. 
 
 £15 15 £16 10 £17 10 
 £21 £25 10 £32 10 £35 
 
 The Largest and Most 
 Exclusive Novelties 
 f All Kinds, 
 are Cordial ly 
 Call and 
 
 «-M 3EE Qs=l|i 
 
 SILVER CILT "MIDGET" DETACHABLE 
 CALENDAR PENCIL 
 
 With Enamel Figures either Red, Blue, Green or White 
 only £1 10s. 
 
179-181-183 
 Regent Street 
 LONDON, W. 
 
 J. C. VICKERY 
 
 
 mm 
 
 VICKERY'S NEW FLAT 
 SHAPE, FINEST 
 QUALITY, MOROCCO 
 TRAVELLING 
 WORK-CASES 
 72/6 84/- 
 
 ;f* 
 
 Charming Selection of 
 in London for Gifts 
 American Visitors 
 
 n v i t e d to 
 Loo k Round 
 
 bag below) 
 
 Plain Gold 50/- 
 Plain Gun Metal 21/- 
 Set Gems 87/6, 105/-, 135/- 
 
 BAC WITH BUTTON-HOLE 
 WATCH 
 
 'Regt! 
 
" From the Land of Lace and Linen" 
 
 Scribner's 
 Readers 
 visiting London 
 
 are invited to inspect our stock 
 of Irish Hand-made Goods. 
 The Largest Stock of 
 
 Irish Peasant Goods 
 in London 
 
 Irish Linen \*\ b a , n ^ 
 
 Linen. Hand-woven and Grass 
 Bleached. Gives endless wear 
 
 /*- ' h T Beautiful and Exclusive Designs in all the well- 
 
 II ISU L^Clttj known makes, at Reasonable Prices 
 
 J ' 7 J J lj J ' r A magnificent variety of Hem- 
 
 lriStl JnLanaKerClliejS stitched and Embroidered Linen 
 Cambric, Shamrock Lawn, Colored Handkerchiefs, Lace-trimmed 
 and Glove Handkerchiefs 
 
 Irish Linen Robes and TVaists embroidered a "on 
 
 our own "World-Famous" Linen 
 
 In addition to the above, we undertake all kinds of high-class Dress- 
 making, and supply every article for Ladies' and Gentlemen's 'Wear 
 
 The favor of a visit is requested You will not be importuned to purchase 
 
 Robinson & Cleaver, Ltd. 
 
 156 to 170, Regent Street, LONDON 
 
 Also at Donegall Place, - BELFAST 
 22, Church Street, LIVERPOOL 
 
 To H.M.King 
 Edward Vll. 
 

 
 - mM m 
 
 nssii- 
 
 Rsw^r 
 
 /'//<• Premier Store in London 
 
 Peter Robinson, Ltd. 
 
 Oxford St. tf//d Regent St., W. 
 
 This business has had uninterrupted success since its 
 inception in 1833, and it has become not only of national 
 but of world-wide importance. It is specially noted for 
 
 Beautiful and Original Creations in 
 
 Frocks, Mantles and 
 
 Millinery 
 
 though every phase of 
 fashionable attire can 
 also be seen here, while 
 one building is devoted 
 to the requirements of 
 Gentlemen and Boys. 
 
 Important to 1 'is/tors 
 
 Peter Robinson s allow the full 
 amount for American Dollar 
 Notei and I 'oinage, the . Imeri- 
 can Express ('<>.'$ Travellers 
 Cheques being accepted at their 
 indicated face value. 
 
Wine Merchants 
 
 to H. M. the King 
 
 Notice . Americans visiting London should call at our Offices for the 
 best information concerning the Wines and Spirits on this 
 Market. 
 
 (udtalogue. Our Catalogue contains over 400 varieties of the Finest Vin- 
 tages and Old Matured Spirits, all quoted at lowest rates — 
 together with a representative list of our leading customers, 
 including many names of the highest distinction. 
 
 £LXport. We make shipments to America from bond and for quantities 
 of 23 dozen and over — freight free : 
 
 Hatch Mansfield & Co., Ltd. 
 
 47 Pall Mall, London, S.W. 
 
 BY APPOINTMENT 
 
 TO THE LATE QUEEN VICTORIA 
 
 VISITORS TO LONDON (eng.) 
 
 Should Call and Inspect the Galleries of 
 
 1 he London Stereoscopic Company 
 
 PORTRAITURE AND MINIATURES of artistic excellence 
 
 PHOTOGRAPHIC APPARATUS AND OPTICAL GOODS 
 of the HIGHEST GRADE for discriminating TOURISTS 
 
 PHOTOGRAPHS OF CELEBRITIES. VIEWS OF ALE PARTS OF THE WORLD 
 ENGLISH AND FOREIGN FANCY GOODS 
 
 CONTRACTORS TO H. M. GOVERNMENT 
 SUPPLIERS OF PHOTOGRAPHIC APPARATUS TO THE BRITISH ARISTOCRACY 
 
 Only Address ESTABLISHED OVER FIFTY YEARS 
 
 106 & 108, REGENT STREET, LONDON (eng.) 
 
With 
 
 Roosevelt in Africa 
 
 As pioneers in equipping Big Game hunting parties, 
 Newland, Tarlton & Co., Ltd., confidently invite 
 inquiries from all who think of visiting the " most 
 attractive playground in the world." These words 
 are applied by Colonel Theodore Roosevelt to 
 British East Africa, and the fact that 
 
 Newland, Tarlton & Co., Limited 
 
 have been honored with all his arrangements is a 
 guarantee of their ability to do things well, and an 
 acknowledgment of their long experience. 
 
 Write for booklet about Big Game Hunting to their London Office 
 
 Newland, Tarlton & Co., Ltd. 
 
 {Head Office: Nairobi, B. E. Africa) 
 
 166 Piccadilly, London 
 
 Cables: Wapagazi, London 
 
 Codes: A R C, 5th Edn., and Western Union 
 
a? ^ / TO THE PRINCESSES & THE ROYAL FAMILY. 
 
 '*-\ 
 
 
 « \ 
 
 
 ** 
 
 MAISON DE BEAUTE 
 VALAZE 
 
 MADAME HELENA RUBINSTEIN, the Viennese Complexion Specialiste, 
 may be consulted daily at the Maison de Beaute Valaze, concerning lier 
 exclusive treatments for the preservation, restoration, and scientific care 
 "t the complexion. Her method of obliteration of deep facial lines, to cite an 
 example, in only two or three sittings, has, since its introduction bv herin London, 
 hem accepted as the only scientifically correct and effective one for the per- 
 manent and rapid removal of those blemishes. 
 
 Madame Rubinstein's specialities, for home treatment, intended for every 
 requirement of the complexion, are now found on the dressing tables of fashion- 
 able and fastidious women all over the world. 
 
 A full and detailed account of these specialities and of her unique and ex- 
 clusive methods employed at her Maison de Beaute Valaze, will be found in 
 Mine. Rubinstein's book, "Beauty in the Making." which deals fully and 
 competently with all complexion defects and points the way to prevention w 
 
 and relief. This interesting treatise will be sent post free on application 
 to Madame Rubinstein's Maison de Beaute Valaze, B24, Grafton Street, Mavfair 
 
 Helena Rubmste 
 
 Londor 
 
 VALAZE SKIN FOOD & BEAUTIFIER, 4/6, 8/6 and 21 /- a jar 
 
 VALAZE HERBAL POWDER (for greasr skins'), or NOVENA l'OUDRE (for dry skins), 
 
 3/-, 5/6 and 10/6 a box 
 
 NO\ ENA SUNPROOF CREME is a scientific preparation that prevents — as Valaze removes — Freckles, 
 
 Sunburn and Sallowness, fis 
 VALAZE HERBAL SOAP, 2/6 and 4/6 a cake VALAZE LIP LUSTRE, II- and 3/6 
 
Americans in London 
 
 should visit 
 
 THE ESTABLISHMENTS OF 
 
 H. P. Truefitt, Ltd. 
 
 Ladies' and Gentlemen's 
 American Hair Dressing Saloons 
 
 Established 1819 
 
 Ladies' Saloons 
 
 Messrs. H. P. TRUEFITT, LTD., 
 having engaged a new staff of skilled 
 artists competent to give the highest 
 satisfaction in every branch of Ladies' 
 Hair and Coiffure, solicit the favour 
 of a visit. 
 
 Hair Tinting and Waving by 
 French Experts 
 
 Coiffure by French Experts 
 
 Manicure Chiropody 
 
 Facial Massage 
 
 Skilled Operators 
 
 PRIVATE ROOMS 
 
 Gentlemen's Saloons 
 
 Saloons and Private Rooms. 
 Operators who Thoroughly 
 Understand the Require- 
 ments of Americans 
 
 Facial Massage 
 
 Chiropody Manicure 
 
 Hot Towels 
 
 Skilled Operators 
 
 PRIVATE ROOMS 
 
 16 Old Bond Street 
 
 AND 
 
 20 & 21 Burlington Arcade 
 
 Branch at for Hats and Hosiery 
 
 18 & 1 9 Western Road, Hove 
 BRIGHTON 
 
 LONDON, W. 
 
 Branch at 
 South Camp 
 ALDERSHOT 
 
W. Turner Lord & Co. 
 
 20 Mount Street, Grosvenor Square 
 LONDON, W. 
 
 Specialists in 
 
 Decoration Furniture 
 
 and Fabrics 
 
 A PARTNER of the FIRM will arrive at the HOTEL NETHERLANDS, 
 Fifth Avenue, NEW YORK, in September for a stay of several weeks, to 
 consult and advise clients who are DECORATING and FURNISHING 
 
 Visitors to ENGLAND are especially invited to inspect the models and 
 reproductions of fine examples which have been undertaken by 
 
 W. Turner Lord & Co. 
 
 20 Mount Street, Grosvenor Square 
 LONDON, W. 
 
 // *ine Experts cii* 
 
 John Harvey & Sons, Ltd. 
 
 BRISTOL, ENG. 
 
 FOUNDED 1796 
 
 By Royal Warrants to H. M. The King 
 and H. R. H. The Prince of Wales 
 
The Great 
 English 
 Food 
 
 Reformer and, 
 Health Specialist 
 
 Every American knows 
 Eustace Miles, the great Ten- 
 nis and Racquet player, who 
 lived for a year in the United 
 States and, won three Am- 
 ateur Championships there. 
 
 But how many know that Eustace Miles is also 
 probably the greatest living exponent of Sensible 
 Food Reform ? He has for years studied the science 
 of nourishing the human body, and his knowledge 
 and enthusiasm have found practical expression in 
 the creation in the centre of London of the greatest 
 Food Reform Restaurant in the World, where the 
 health, comfort, and pleasure of the visitor are studied 
 in every detail. 
 
 Mr. Eustace Miles' Proteid (or body building) prep- 
 arations are known everywhere. No American should 
 miss a visit to the Eustace Miles Restaurant in Lo'n- 
 don. Besides the delicious meals, there are under the 
 same roof most interesting lectures and classes, a 
 Cookery School, and a School of Physical Culture. 
 
 Gistace Mifes Restaurant 
 ^Salons ^Normal Physical School 
 
 CHANDOS STREET, CHARING CROSS, 
 
 LONDON, W.C. 
 
Great 
 Eastern 
 Railway 
 of 
 
 The Cathedral Route 
 
 of Great Britain 
 
 Famous for its Historical and Antiquarian Features 
 
 Homes of the Pilgrim Fathers; Tennyson's Country; The Land of Dickens; 
 
 Birthplace of Nelson; Cambridge Colleges; Castles; 
 
 Ancestral Halls, and Abbeys 
 
 The British Royal Mail Route 
 
 The Continent of Europe • - 
 
 Via Harwich — Hook of Holland, and via Harwich — Antwerp 
 
 Direct Route to 
 
 Holland, Belgium, Germany, the Rhine District, Switzerland, etc. 
 
 Large Turbine and Twin Screw Steamers 
 
 The Boat Express Trains run alongside the Steamers 
 
 For descriptive literature ami full particular; apply to 
 
 H. J. KETCHAM, General Agent 
 362R Broadway, New York, N. Y. 
 
 Telephone, Franklin 
 
 Cable Address, Chelmsford, New Yi.rk 
 
American Visitors to Europe 
 
 wishing to travel to the Continent will be interested in the 
 following notes regarding the London-Dover-Ostend route. 
 Three services daily connect England with Belgium and 
 countries beyond (Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Austria, etc.), 
 leaving 
 
 London {Charing Cross Station) at p.oo a.m., 2.20 p.m., 9.00 p.m. 
 Dover (Admiralty Pier) . . at 11.00 a.m., 4.J0 p.m., 11.00 p.m. 
 
 Its geographical position making Belgium the high road between Great Britain 
 and Central Europe induced the Belgian Government to connect the two countries 
 by a fast boat service between Ostend and Dover. 
 
 The ten new steamers, "Princesse Elisabeth," "Princesse Clementine," "Rapide," 
 "Leopold II," "Marie Henriette," "Princesse Henriette," "Princesse Josephine," 
 "La Flandre," "Prince Albert," and " Ville de Douvres," constructed either in the dock 
 yards of Messrs. Denny Brothers, at Dumbarton, or in those of Cockerill & Co., an old 
 English firm carried on in Belgium, perform thrice daily the journey between Ostend 
 and Dover in three hours. They are fitted with electric light, the wireless telegraphy 
 (Marconi system), and all the latest improvements, and with their luxurious saloons, 
 spacious promenade decks, elegant cabins, and great speed of 21 to 24 knots an hour, 
 may' be considered perfect models of modern naval construction. 
 
 The turbine steamer " Princesse Elisabeth " is in every sense one of the finest, if not 
 the finest, most comfortable and must luxurious of all steamers plying between the 
 British Isles and the Continent. With the other large mail steamers, the "Princesse 
 Clementine," the "Marie Henriette," the "Leopold II," the "Rapide," the "Prin- 
 cesse Henriette," and the "Princesse Josephine," the Dover-Ostend line may well 
 be said to possess a first-class fleet of steamers, fully equal to cope with the ever- 
 increasing traffic between England and Central Europe. 
 
 Two new powerful turbine steamers will be added to the fleet shortly. Their 
 speed will be about 25 knots. 
 
 The rolling stock used by the Belgian State Railways in the International trains, 
 running in connection with the mail service between Ostend and Dover, is conspicuous 
 as regards comfort. This rolling stock is made up of carriages on three axles, and of 
 carriages on bogey wheels; all the carriages are provided with lavatories, steam-heating 
 apparatus and the quick-acting Westinghouse brake. 
 
 The railway itself has recently been renewed with rails of an entirely modern 
 type, and very powerful engines are used. All this has brought about a great reduction 
 of time in travelling between London and the principal towns of the Continent, and 
 has enabled travellers to make their journevs with speed and comfort. 
 
 " Voitures-Salon " are now running on the Belgian State Railways. These cars consist of a large 
 saloon and several compartments of from two to eight seats. The latter may be reserved for ladies, 
 smokers or for parties wishing to travel separately. They are lighted by electricity, provided for the 
 cold season with an improved warming apparatus, and are the most elegant and most comfortable cars of 
 any to be found in the rolling stock of the railways of Europe. The cars are provided with refreshment 
 buffets. Passengers holding first class international tickets or " Reserve " tickets of the local service may 
 travel in these " Voitures-Salon " without payment of additional fare. Passengers with second class 
 tickets may travel in these " Voitures-Salon " on payment of a supplementary fare of three centimes per 
 kilometre. " Supplements " for return journeys, with 20 per cent, reduction on the ordinary supplementary 
 fares, are also issued with the same period of validity as the ordinary railway return tickets. The pay- 
 ment of the supplementary fare must be made at the booking office. 
 
 Intending passengers should call at or write to the London offices of the BELGIAN 
 STATE RAILWA YS, 47 Cannon St root, E. C, for information and copies {free) 
 of attractive tourist program me. 
 
P & O Company's 
 
 Chief Office. 
 
 Northumberland Avenue, W.C. 
 
 122 Leadenhall Street. W.C. 
 
 London. 
 
 SUMMER 
 
 J7VERYONE, at some time or other, 
 has felt a yearning to see the beautiful 
 Norwegian Fjords, the Northern Capitals — 
 Christiania, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, 
 Stockholm, St. Petersburg, — Venice, 
 Dalmatia, Corfu or Sicily. Your visit to 
 Europe is your opportunity to satisfy your 
 desire. The Pleasure Cruises arranged by 
 the P & O Company enable you to visit 
 any of these places under the pleasantest 
 and most enjoyable conditions. 
 
 For Illustrated 'Programme, through tickets from 
 Neu) Yorf(, or any further information, apply to 
 
 the AGENT IN NEW YORK, L. J. GAR- 
 CEY, 281 FIFTH AVENUE, or at the 
 P & O Company's Chief Offices as below. 
 
 THE HOTELS WHEBE 
 
 YOUR FRIENDS 
 
 THESE well-appointed and commodious TEMPERANCE HOTELS will, it is believed, 
 meet the requirements, at moderate charges, of those who desire all the conveniences and 
 advantages of the larger modern Licensed Hotels. They are situated close together in one of 
 the healthiest districts of London, very near the British Museum, the Thackeray Hotel being 
 directly opposite and the Kingsley within two minutes' walk of that famous place of interest. 
 The Hotels are most favourably situated with regard to the Houses of Parliament, Law Courts, 
 Art Galleries, and Theatres. In fact, they are within easy walking distance 
 . or short cab-drive of nearly all places of interest frequented by those vis- 
 9kV iting London. They are almost equidistant from the great Railways, 
 North, South, East and West ; the Museum and Holborn Stations 
 of the Electric Railways being close at hand bring the Hotels to 
 within 8 or 10 minutes of the City, Royal Exchange, and the 
 Bank of England, and within 1 5 to 30 minutes of the Agri- 
 cultural Hall, South Kensington, Earl's Court, Olympia, etc. 
 
 HACKERAY-H9TEL 
 
 [ Great Russell st LONDON 
 OPPOSITE THE BRITISH MUSEUM 
 
CRUISES 191Q 
 
 CRUISES by the P & Company's well-known S. Y. " VECTIS." 
 
 From London 
 
 SP1TZBERGEN, THE NORTH CAPE, ETC. Jui 
 
 30 to July 26. Fares from $ 1 53. 
 NORWEGIAN FJORDS. July 28 to August 10. 
 NORWEGIAN FJORDS. August 12 to August 25 
 Fares from $62. 
 
 CRUISES by the P & Company's luxurious new twin- 
 screw S. S. " MANTUA." 
 From London 
 
 May 2 1 to June 1 3. Madeira. The Azores, etc 
 July 7 to July 28. The Northern Capitals. 
 August 6 to August 29. Sweden, Denmark, 
 
 Fares from $102. Russia, etc. 
 
 June I 7 to July 1 . The Fjords of Norway. 
 Through bookings from New York. 
 
 Agent : 
 
 L. J. GARCEY, 
 
 281 Fifth Avenue. 
 
 YOU WILL MEET 
 
 IN LONDON 
 
 Lounges and Spacious Dining, Drawing, Writing, Reading, Billiard 
 Smoking Rooms. Perfect Sanitation. 
 Floors Fireproof throughout. Night Porters. Telephones. 
 
 PASSENGER LIFTS. BATHROOMS ON EVERY FLOOR. 
 
 Bedrooms, including Attendance, Single, from 3s. 6d. to 6s. Inclusive charge for Bedroom, Attendance, 
 d'Hote Breakfast and Dinner, from 8s. 6d. to 10s. 6d. ($2.10 to $2.60) per day. 
 
 Full Tariff and Testimonials on application. 
 
 Intending visitors are requested to send an intimation, if possible, by post or telegram 
 prior to arrival, that rooms may be reserved. 
 
 and] 
 
 Table 
 
 Telegraphic Addresses : 
 
 i Kingsley Hotel, " Bookcraft, London." 
 1 Thackeray Hotel, " Thackeray, London." 
 
 INGSLEYH9TEL 
 
 Mart Street .. • TONDON 
 
 L Bloomsbury Square -A m 
 
 NEAR THE BRITISH MUSEUM 
 
St. Ermins Hotel 
 
 At the Heart of London 
 
 Telephone 
 
 Telegrams 
 " Erminites, 
 London 
 
 EXTERIOR VIEW OF ST. ERMINS HOTEL, LONDON 
 
 It has been said of London that it is the " Heart of the Empire," and it may be 
 equally truly said of the St. Ermins Hotel that it is at the "Heart of London" 
 situated as it is in close proximity to Buckingham Palace, Houses of Parliament and 
 all the principal sights of Town. 
 
 A new private corridor connects the Hotel with St. James' Park Station on the 
 District Railway, so that visitors are brought into direct communication with the 
 chief Railway Termini and all the best known places of amusement. 
 
 Every Modern Comfort 
 
 Cuisine All That Could Be Desired 
 
 Tariff Most Moderate, inclusive terms from 12s. per day 
 
 Herr Meny's Orchestra plays daily 
 from 4.30 till 11 p.m. 
 
 Afternoon Concert Tea served from 4.30 till 6.00 p.m. - in the unique 
 and handsomely appointed Lounge 
 
 Elegant Suites of Rooms May Be Hired for Weddings, Receptions, etc. 
 Terms upon application. 
 
 A Souvenir Booklet with Tariff, and illustrated views of the principal historical 
 and other surroundings, post free from the Manager — 
 
 St. Ermins Hotel 
 
 St. James' Park, London, S.W. 
 
Americans in London 
 
 should take advantage of the special 
 service offered by Scribner's Mag- 
 azine International Travel and 
 Shopping Bureau. 
 
 Through this service you may obtain information of the 
 most practical interest, saving time, money, and trouble. 
 It will furnish introductions to the best Shops, Hotels, and 
 Travel Offices, assuring careful attention and moderate 
 charges everywhere. 
 
 For instance : If you want to buy antique furniture — rare books — or clothes — 
 or a saddle — or anything else, for which London is famous, Scribner's Maga- 
 zine Bureau will tell you what shops can best supply your requirements — will 
 send you literature, price lists, etc., containing exactly the detailed information 
 which you require. Scribner's Magazine Bureau will furnish you with a list of 
 hotels, details of cost, and descriptive booklets; will also tell you about railway 
 travel in England — trips worth taking — places you should visit. 
 
 This service was organized by the London Office of 
 Scribner's Magazine for the express purpose of assisting 
 our American readers while in London. 
 
 There are no charges. It is only necessary to write to 
 the Bureau stating what special information you desire. 
 Address, Scribner's Magazine International 
 Travel and Shopping Bureau, Temple House, 
 Temple Ave., London, E. C, England. 
 
^ 
 
SCRIBNERS 
 
 
 MAGAZINE 
 
 GUIDE I 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 SCRIBNER'S MAGAZINE INTERNATIONAL *§ 
 TRAVEL AND SHOPPING BUREAU S 
 
 153 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK • TEMPLE HOUSE, TEMPLE AVENUE, LONDON ffl 
 
IS 
 
 
 American Visitors to Great 
 Britain and the Continent will 
 find Scribner's Magazine on sale 
 everywhere, by all the leading 
 book and news dealers. 
 
 One Shilling Net per Copy 
 
BOOKS OF VALUE TO THE TOURIST 
 IN ENGLAND AND THE CONTINENT 
 
 l e a I • i By James Huneker 
 
 romenades of An Impressionist $1 . 50ne t (Postpaid $i.65> 
 
 The field of the writer's promenades is mainly modern. They lead among such men as 
 zanne, Rops, Mont celli, Rodin, Carriere, Degas, and Sorolla. If the author turns back as far 
 Greco, Velasquez, and even Botticelli, it is because they are, in a sense, modern discoveries. 
 
 " We have many writers on art subjects in these days, but none so suggestive as Mr. Huneker. After reading 
 • of his sketches one is seized with a burning desire to see the pictures he describes, and that is about as great a 
 lpliment as could be paid to any critic." — Philadelphia Inquirer. 
 
 "It is a companionable book, full of strange and unsuspected learning that is without a suggestion of pedantry. 
 >ught to find its way into the baggage of many lovers of culture when they invade Europe this year." 
 
 — The New York Evening Sun. 
 
 ngland and the English : From an American 
 
 oint of View By Price Co,,ier 
 
 Sixth American Edition, Seventh Engli. h Edition. $1.50 net 
 " Nobody who knows England or cares for the English can lay this book down after he has begun it. It is de- 
 d of the commonolaces of the average observer. It is free from the broad and vague generalizations of the aver- 
 ■ international student. It is direct, concrete, and pungent. A book sound in both observation and comment." 
 
 — The Outlook- 
 
 he Charm of the English Village By P. H. Ditchfieid, ma. 
 
 Illustrated by Sydney R. Jones. 8vo. $3.00 net 
 
 A very entertaining account of picturesque English rural scenes, including village churches, cottages, architecture, 
 age gardens, farms, and rectories, greens, old roads, etc. 
 
 iterary London By Elsie m. Lang 
 
 With an Introduction by G. K. Chesterton and 42 Photographs. 12mo. $1.50 net 
 A most entertaining guide to London's literary a:sociations, arranged by streets and neighborhoods, and illustrated 
 th views of noted houses. The favorite haunts of Dr. Johnson and Boswell. and later of Dickens, Thackeray, 
 d writers of our own time are described in a delightful manner. 
 
 Lural Nooks Around London B r Charl « G Harper 
 
 eluding the Counties of Middlesex and Surrey 8vo - $2.00 net 
 
 With over 80 Illustrations from Photographs, and a Map. 
 
 An attractive account of the country and towns near London and of the historical and personal interest of the 
 nous places. 
 
 irt in Great Britain and Ireland By Sir Waiter Armstrong 
 
 With over 500 Illustrations, 4 in color. $1.50 net (Postpaid $1 65) 
 "An excellent hand book. It is difficult to understand how so much information could be crowded into so small 
 lolume, and this little book is fully and delightfully illustrated." — Art in Progress. 
 
 Vanre of the Frenrh By Edward Harrison Barker 
 
 ranee or tne rrencn with 31 illustrations. \ 2mo . $1.50 net 
 
 Full of general information concerning the life and genius of the French people with special reference to the 
 esent day. Some of its chapters are " Family Life, " " Rural Life," "Artists," "Players," "Musicians," 
 Singers." 
 
 taly of the Italians W . A „ . . J* , He,en ^T"* 
 
 J With 32 full-page Illustrations. $1.50 net 
 
 The writer has transferred to her pages the spirit and atmosphere of Italy. She gives a clear and entertaining 
 count of the Italians of to-day — of their artists, their statesmen, and their newspapers, their books, industries, 
 id amusements, their problems, political and social. 
 
 Send for our Catalogue of Travel Books and other Books of Interest and Value (o the Tourist 
 
 :HARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS, NEW YORK 
 
WAT iy 1910 
 
 Baedeker's Guide Books 
 
 Latest Editions always on hand and mailed to any address 
 on receipt of price. Illustrated with numerous Maps, Plans, 
 Panoramas, and Views. 12mo, Cloth. ALL PRICES NET. 
 
 BAEDEKER'S UNITED STATES 
 
 The United States, with Excursions to Mexico, Cuba, Porto Rico, and Alaska. 
 
 Handbook for Travellers. By Karl Baedeker. With 33 Maps and 48 Plans. 
 Fourth edition, revised. l2mo, $4.50 net. 
 
 " Baedeker's ' United Slates ' should be the third book with which the American should provide himself if he 
 can have but three." — Boston Journal. 
 
 " Any American who wishes to realize how little he knows about his own country, East and West, should spend 
 an hour or two with this red book in hand. He will be astounded at his ignorance ; astounded also at the incalcu- 
 lable number of facts crowded into the 724 pages of this volume." — New York Eoening Post. 
 
 EUROPEAN GUIDES 
 
 CANADA, with Newfoundland, and an Excursion to Alaska 
 
 With 13 Maps and 12 Plans $1.80 
 
 ALPS (EASTERN), including the Bavarian Highlands, Tyrol, Salzburg, etc. 
 
 With 61 Maps. 10 Plans, and 8 Panoramas 3.00 
 
 AUSTRIA, including Hungary, Transylvania, Dalmatia, and Bosnia 
 
 With 33 Map; and 44 Plans 2.40 
 
 BELGIUM and HOLLAND. With 15 Maps and 30 Plans 1.80 
 
 BERLIN and Its Environs. With 5 Maps and 20 Plans 0.90 
 
 EGYPT. With 24 Maps, 76 Plans, and 59 Views and Vignettes 4.50 
 
 FRANCE (NORTHERN), from Belgium and the English Channel to the Loire, 
 
 excluding Paris and Its Environs. With 16 Maps and 55 Plans ..... 2.25 
 
 FRANCE (SOUTHERN), including Corsica. With 33 Maps, 49 Plans, and a Panorama . 2.70 
 
 GERMANY (NORTHERN). With 47 Maps and 81 Plans 2.40 
 
 GERMANY (SOUTHERN). With 36 Maps and 45 Plans 1.80 
 
 GERMANY (RHINE from ROTTERDAM to CONSTANCE). With 25 Maps and 29 Plans 2.10 
 
 GREAT BRITAIN. With 28 Maps and 65 Plans and a Panorama 3.00 
 
 GREECE. With 16 Maps. 30 Plans, and a Panorama of Athens 2.40 
 
 ITALY, from the Alps to Naples. With 25 Maps and 52 Plans 2.40 
 
 ITALY (NORTHERN), including LEGHORN, FLORENCE, RAVENNA, and Routes 
 
 through Switzerland and Austria. With 30 Maps and 40 Plans . ■ ' j.' ■ 2.40 
 ITALY (CENTR\L) and ROME. With 19 Maps. 55 Plans, a Panorama of Rome, and Views 
 
 of the Forum Romanum and the Colosseum .......... 2.25 
 
 ITALY (SOUTHERN) and SICILY, with Excursions to the Lipari Islands, Tunis. 
 
 Sardinia. Malta, and Corfu. With 30 Maps and 28 Plans 1 .80 
 
 LONDON and Its Environs. With 9 Maps and 19 Plans 1.80 
 
 NORWAY, SWEDEN, and DENMARK. With 43 Maps, 26 Plans, and 3 Panoramas 2.40 
 PALESTINE and SYRIA. With 20 Maps, 52 Plans, and a Panorama of Jerusalem .3.60 
 
 PARIS and Environs, with Routes from London to Paris. With 14 Maps and 38 Plans 1.80 
 
 SPAIN and PORTUGAL. With 7 Maps and 47 Plans 4.80 
 SWITZERLAND and the adjacnt Portions of Italy, Savoy, and the Tyrol 
 
 With 72 Maps, 19 Plans, and 12 Panoramas 2.40 
 
 CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS, 153-157 Fifth Ave., New York 
 
 Sole Agents for the United States 
 
 
Lb D 10