EURO PI SHOWING v PRINCIPAL RAILROADS COMPLETE POCKET GUIDE f Ab er«r^ y^is^^r I IV^pen^v \ MuiBteeuV 1 // ^-ir J Munich /N»J-3>^ > \ Wcls i »»° Jbdra-^sirnSrS^, i. n p^t / ue B1 ,,,A. mi i-: . ■'!' W^h^^^^-AkNi^^n ■^^f^^Tj^,^ ,stadt°^X %y G fiochel Wife /( ,- wlfai*nrg o/Tuiit- Cl'M-^j^vrkirclira jiiria lin .Tadf iev ,nanstl .Vbumberv ,/** \c3mo , 5«l Tezze /£!!], "^, — Ok* o Jliarie^fi li x^ , , . tie 11 " — .>— • \ */ ^ — A Si^*^ \ C >pj 1 1, lit 1UJ0, by WlUMAM R. JENKINS THE COMPLETE POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROPE BY EDMUND C. STEDMAN EDITED BY THOMAS L. STEDMAN NEW YORK WILLIAM R. JENKINS CO. 48th St. and Sixth Ave. LONDON BAILLIERE, TINDALL & COX 8 Henrietta Street, Strand 1911 Copyright, 1898, 1899, 1905. by William R. Jenkins Copyright, 1907, 1908, 1910, William R. Jenkins Co„ All Bights Reserved Printed by thb Press of William R. Jenkins Co. New York NOTE BY THE "EDITOR THIS book has been for many years before the puV lie, and is thoroughly tested by increasing use- among travellers through the portions of Europe gen* erally covered in a single tour. It resulted from ob- servation of the trials undergone by those equipped with the larger and more cumbrous handbooks W& devised the Pocket Guide because such a wor& was sorely needed, and no one else undertook this practi- cal service. The ends desired were : 1. Fuller and better arranged details of Routes, Points of Interest, Fares, Hotels, Currency, etc., than are given in many books of greater proportions. 2. Legible type and good maps. 3. A real Pocket Guide, so com- pact as to be carried in a man's coat or hip pocket, or in a woman's dress-pocket or muff. The work has been revised from year to year, and to an average of correctness at least equal to that of any other condensed guidebook. New maps and other improvements have been added. The vrlume however, has been rigidly kept within its original size. We believe that the Pocket Guide is as neay what it claims to be as editorial diligence can make it, and trust that it now, more than ever, will add te> the comfort of travellers from our own and othei English-speaking countries. The Editor vissna OS u NO M OS co tA co CO M OS Macraes :o eo tA CO tA 00 1—1 :o :o # C\! bo i—i i—i 00 tA CO CO "2o = o t2 ATVXI o 00 i— 1 o o SN OJ i—l i—i Sol •to "J 2 = 5 o o rH JsriydS o 00 T-l P< o S3 • Pi ua tjo a s5o~ (3 i—i O O i-H a -aazxiAig wnio^ae: ao*av«£ C3 oo 1—1 o o iO Rubel 100 Kopeks *0 CD 1- :© Ci 00 :o o *0 rH ys o :o o o HO JO ha o) en 12 § o o o CO bo a in 00 ^ be sis ■s ^ a. Pi O J- a T— 1 a CO 1—1 a T— 1 Krone 100 Heller ■a M M ci CO k T-H 6 X = s bJO 7—1 to eo bx> a ia o h4 o hi T— 1 o CO o OJ o Cj CO i-3 o s IpOSc o CO ft o CO o Pi o C5 CO Pi o a — lfr05c o CO CJ 00 o C ! OS CO £} >> o -a o w T— 1 CO 09 i— i to T— I •3 \« r- 1 K •>1 CO CO § -«*i or CO T— 1 Eh a g§ >H P O h-l *-< L> t2 tM ga£ H £ O < i— i 0Q CO P d — eg u o> eg a -p V D 3 ^ Pi a __ a a* p c m XIX ■c > — O O B a eg r. 3 a -J o CO Pi o CO r 5 a d ■is — C CD a Pi a -P a — d-d a PI ^ o ~ rCJ •— +3-U .— =H ,. Pi ^ > C r5 ^ >>a1g CP S > c8 — i d m o d a ~ ~ ^ a — eg O o-p d_ mC otg^» a rt ego 43 Mcg-g ||.s| o a'S § -p «, a a >i. a eg' ■r. H a 33 a A rt o-prCi = ij.tjw pi ^ g a,'.2P -8 cs^ Pi-e +3 5: en o d ° S bt+J O (V P3 eg pi a cx5 a > "1 3^ eg ° ® ^ a ^ aw ..Sdb>2« v SsS ^-Pp^ 2 eg +2 5 "3 d pi d cTs'Ste •d^ o a eg a £ >-3 « a >flr^U Sg g a ^.C PnWcoS^^a a r^2^ ^^ a> ° » fl3g§S-g&8f3 t r y^.S : 4loi>aoa ^. •* * , Tj cD ^^ ^i^ ■ -. {J ^ \ o flS ,f-r 2 2r^ a 'ts M !L• ^ - , c - s a "-n 3 eg >>p-h > rLStS.Q bJJ! eg. +3 a ^ ~ £r-H © > a _ P eg j-i^h dcgo-dgdS eg ^?a ■g Sf-P S ® oj3 d ABBREVIATIONS. M. . . . . Mile, or miles. ft. ....Feet. in Inches. sq. .... Square. N North. S South. E. . . . . East. W. . . . . West. ». Eight (hand). 1 Left (hand). ?ly. . . . Railway. ■stat. . . . Station. *h. . . . Church, ihr. .... Hour, ttin. . . . Minutes. £ Pounds sterling. 8- .... Shilling, or shillings k. . . . Krone. d Penny, or pence. fr. .... Franc, or francs. c . I . Cents, centimes, oreea tesimi. fl Florin or florins. mk.,mks. Mark, marks, pf. .... Pfennige. kr. ... Kreutzers. L ..... Lira, or lire. r. ..... Reales. Sun. . . . Sunday. Mon. , . Monday. Tues. . Tuesday. Wed. . . Wednesday. Thurs. . Thursday. Fri. . Friday. Sat. . . Saturday. The names of the most important towns, buildings, and collections are printed in full-faced type. Other notable places and objects, ©f less importance, have titles in italics. In many eases, as of churches and public buildings, conspicuous events, etc., the date of erection or of occurrence is placed directly after, in parentheses. Statements which have for many years been regarded locally ass unchallengeable facts (e. g., the preservation of the heads of St. Peter and St. Paul in the Lateran Basilica, Rome), are repeated in these pages without comment. CONTENTS. Table or Moneys iv Abbreviations vi A Chapter on Travel vii Arrangements for the Journey , viii Steamships— The Ocean Journey x Money, etc xv Railway Travel xix Hotel Expenses, etc xx Golfing— Cycling xxv Automobile Regulations xxvii Customs Regulations xxx Ireland 1 Killarney— The Lakes 6 Dublin. 14 Belfast, Giant's Causeway, etc 23 North Wales 27 England (Chester) 32 Liverpool 36 English Lake District 42 Scotland (The Land of Burns) 56 The Scottish Highlands 68 Stirling, Perth, Aberdeen 80 Edinburgh, Melrose, Abbotsford 85 England (Newcastle, Durham, York ) 95 Manchester, Lincoln, Derby 103 Coventry, Warwick, Stratford 112 London 128 Excursions in Southern England 151 Routes to the Continent 159 Northern France 161 Paris 168 Routes from Paris to Switzerland 198 CONTENTS Belgium 201 Brussels and Environs 204 Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, etc 207 Holland 212 Germany and Austria 218 Up the Rhine by Steamer 222 Berlin .* 241 Dresdren and Prague 246 Vienna 250 Southeastern Europe 255 Munich and the Tyrol 261 Switzerland (Basle, Zurich) 274 Lucerne, Righi, St. Gothard 280 Berne, Freiburg, Lausanne, Geneva 287 Chamounix and Mont Blanc 292 St. Bernard and Simplon Passes 294 Italy (Routes into Italy) 297 The North-Italian Cities 302 Florence 329 Rome 340 Naples, Pompeii, Sorrento, Capri 370 Sicily 384 Southern France (Nice, Marseilles) 397 Aries, Nimes, Avignon, Lyons 401 A Round Trip in Spain 405 Portugal 434 A Tour in the North 441 Norway and Sweden 445 Russia 455 Alphabetical Table op Health Resorts 463 Diplomatic and Consular Agents op the U. S. 471 Travel-Phrases in Four Languages 476 Travelers' Telegraphic Code 492 Index 50Q THE COMPLETE POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROPE. A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. rjOURTEOUS READER,— When you have laid aside you prejudices, donned your garments of travel, and set your foot upon the gang-plank of the steamer bound for Europe, it will not be our fault if you discover that you have forgotten something. If you have bought this our little book, and read this preliminary chapter, you will depart for foreign lands with all your preparations properly made. This Guide describes, as minutely as possible within the limits of a "handy volume," a continuous tour through Northern, Middle, South-eastern, and Southern Europe. The writers hope and believe that if you follow exactly the routes which they de- scribe from the first to the last page of the book, yon will have seen intelligently, at a minimum of cost and inconvenience, the most interesting sections of Europe, and all within four months. By suppres- sing the trip down the Danube and some parts of the Scottish and Sicilian tours, and the Scandinavian and Spanish tours, this can be reduced by three weeks. Many summer tourists seem disinclined t-o visit N. Germany and Austria. This, we think, ife a decided error of judgment; but it is evident that if these sections are not visited, the time is reduced viii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. by another ten days. Most travellers can, with a trifle of care and patience, sit down with this book before them, and by its aid plan a journey which, including the ocean voyages out and back, shall not take up more than four lull months, and can be made with ease and enjoyment. Especial attention has been paid, in the preparation of this volume, to giving the local raihoay and steamboat fares, — a feature in which nearly all other English and American guide-books are sadly deficient. We believe that our work will be found very complete in this particular. Several hundred letters were written to station masters in all parts of Europe for the purpose of securing extreme accuracy. In most cases we think our fares will be found correct. Railway fares, how- ever, vary considerably in Italy during the course of a year, and our fares may sometimes be found a bit higher or lower than those prevalent in that country ; but the difference will be slight. We have done our best to secure accuracy and fulness of detail. The traveller will be duly grateful, after he has tried in vain to find w r hat he wants in the "A B C's" and " Bradshaws " of Great Britain, and has puzzled his brains over the complicated Continental hand-books. We think that the route which we recommend and describe may be followed from beginning to end with no other guide than this one, which can be carried in the breast-pocket. The writer has been over nearly every route described. Arrangements for the Journey. Try to arrange your journey so as to reach Europe by the first of May. With a view to this, secure your steamship tickets very early in the year. When you ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE JOURNEY ix have decided on the date of your departure and the probable length of your absence from home, step into a prominent banker's in the city in which you reside, or the seaport whence you sail, and secure a Letter of Credit or Circular Notes for a sum which you deem sufficient to cover your expenses until you are at home again. Allow a margin for contingencies. On the Letter of Credit are the addresses of perhaps two hundred of the leading banking houses of Europe, and you have only to call on any one of these for such sums as you wish in the currency of the country where you may happen to be. The Travelers' Checks also afford an excellent means of carrying readily available funds abroad. They are accepted by most of the hotels and shops as freely as the money of the country, and are therefore found very useful by the tourist who may want small sums outside of banking hours, or who may not find it convenient to interrupt his sight-seeing by a call at the banker's. Buy at a broker's a few English sov- ereigns, for use on steamer, at landing at Liverpool, or Queenstown, or Southampton, or other ports. Take a Passport. Circumstances,, may occur in which it will be positively necessary for you to have one. Address a letter to the "State "Department, Passport Bureau, Washington," asking for the printed form necessary for application for the document. When you get this form, fill it out, swear to its contents before a notary, and send it back to the State Department, inclosing the go- vernment tax of $1. In due time you will get your passport. One is sufficient for man and wife, or man and family where there are no grown up sons or daughters. If a passport serves x A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. for more persons than its holder, he should ask to have a note made upon it that Mr. is accompa- nied by . Passports are absolutely necessary if any one is suddenly called on to prove his or her identity. They are useful in securing admission to public buildings, private art galleries, etc. Some- times the regulations exacting them are revived for ? few days between two countries, because of a diplo- matic tension or imbroglio, and the person who has none will find his journey interrupted, and will suf- fer loss of money, time, and temper. Steamships. — The Ocean Journey. A voyage across the Atlantic is to-day such a common undertaking that most travellers make as brief preparation for it as if they were going by train from New York to Chicago. The choice of steamships is very large. Try to secure your berths some weeks in advance of sail- ing; a deposit of $25 is in most cases sufficient, and this you are supposed to forfeit if you fail to take the ship" although you may generally post- pone your departure by giving prompt notice of your desire to do so. Most of the lines give special rates for return tickets, the lowest fares usually ex- cepted. Among the lines specially to be recommended are the White Star, New York to Liverpool, calling at Queenstown, every Wed. (fares, $75 to $225) ; from .Boston to Liverpool, via Queenstown, once a month on Sat. ($60 and up); Mediterranean service from "Boston and N.Y. every otherSat. (Naples, $75to$100). The Cunard, N. Y. to Liverpool, via Queenstown, Sat. ($65 to $250); from Boston to Liverpool. Tues. ($65 to $150); Mediterranean service trom N. Y. to THE OCEAN JOURNEY xi Naples and Trieste ($70 and up). American (only line sailing under the American flag) steamers sail every Sat. for Southampton, with tickets to London, or Paris via Cherbourg ($90 to $125 in summer, $75 to $100 in winter ; also from Philadelphia every Wed. for Queenstown and Liverpool ($40 up). North German Lloyd express steamers for Bremen (calling at Plymouth and Cherbourg), Tues. ; twin-screw pas- senger steamers for Bremen (also calling at Plymouth and Cherbourg), Thurs. ($150, scaling down to $75); Mediterranean service every Sat. or second Sat. direct to Gibraltar and Genoa or Naples ($150, $100, $80) . Hamburg -American express steamers to Ham- burg (calling at Plymouth and Cherbourg) every Thurs., and special sailings by twin-screw steamer " Deutschland" during the season (summer $100 up, winter $55 up) ; regular service to Plymouth, Cher- bourg and Hamburg every Sat., and special sailings during the summer (summer $75 up, winter $65 up) ; Mediterranean winter service to Gibraltar, Genoa and Naples ($65 up). Transatlantique steamers sail every Thurs. to Havre direct ($140, $100, $75, in- cluding wine). Other popular lines are the Holland- America, every Wed. to Rotterdam via Boulogne ($65 up) ; Red Star, from N. Y. to Antwerp every Sat. ($55 to $110); Atlantic Transport, N. Y. to London, every Sat. ($55 up); Anchor, every Sat., to Glasgow ($50, $60, $75, or by special steamer, occasional sailings, $60, $80, $100) ; Scandinavian-American, to Den- mark, Norway and Sweden direct, Thurs. (summer $60, $65, winter $50. $55) ; Wilson, N. Y. to Hull, occasional sailings, $40. The choice, as you see, is varied enough to suit any purse, and the accommodation on even the most xfi A CHAPTER ON TRAYEL. inexpensive of the ships is good. For information as to sailings of these steamships from European ports for home, consult the list of sailings issued by the various Ss. Co.'s and the daily journals. The question of Baggage for a European tour is very important. Our advice is to take with you in any case one large, stoutly built American trunk, plainly marked with your name, place of abode, etc. Have it well hooped about, and see that it possesses a capital lock. Into this put everything that you are certain not to require onthe ocean voyage. Then pack such articles as you will need either in a roomy valise or in one of the small, flat cabin trunks, built so that they will go under a berth, which may be had at any trunk-maker's. Ladies will find these ' ' cab- in trunks " almost indispensable. Take with you plenty of warm clothing, and make it a rule in travelling on the Continent always to have over- coats, cloaks, etc., at hand. You will find them as necessary in Switzerland and Italy as in Scot- land and North Germany. When you reach Liverpool, if you intend to return by that port, you can leave your cabin- trunk stored at a hotel or steamship office, if you think you will not re- quire it. Then have your large trunk sent from point to point where you may need it, but travel on all short excursions, trips of two or three days, etc., unencumbered by anything that you cannot carry in your hands. Eve~ vf a valise is rather vol- uminous, vou can take it into railway carriages with you all over the Continent- It is not wise to restrict one's self in amount of baggage ; while the rates for overweight are high in some countries they are low in others. In Great Britain you can carry THE OCEAN JOURNEY. xiil almost anything except a house with you and no ques- tions are asked. A good portion of the equipment of a masculine traveller may be purchased after his arrival in Europe. He would better bring his American over- coats, bat hats, shoes, rugs, linen, etc., can be had to advantage in Great Britain or France. Besides, by wearing European hats and shoes you will save money. It is a mistake to say that a man is known by the com- pany he keeps ; he is known by his hat and shoes. They are the distinguishing marks of his make-up. Travelling suits for gentlemen should be modest in color ; black clothes are handy when one arrives at a fashionable watering-place or a large town, and even- ing dress is highly necessary in London in the season, and in long stops in other cities it is of course fre- quently required. We shall not venture to offer the ladies advice about what to wear, further than to repeat our injunction concerning plenty of wraps, and to hint that thin shoes should not be worn in travel. Ulsters and linen dusters should be avoided ; the ulster, outside the British Islands or at sea, looks odd and is useless. A waterproof coat is extremely useful. An umbrella, stout enough to serve the purpose of a cane, should be taken. Woolen socks and thick-soled shoes are the things for travel. Travelling suits for gentlemen cost in Great Britain or France about one third as much as in America. They are not made so well, nor of such good material as our own, but they are very serviceable. On the Steamship Voyage keep m the open air as much as possible. If you suffer continuously from sea- sickness, struggle up on deck daily, and in one of the adjustable steamer chairs, to be provided by yourself, xiv A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. remain in recumbent posture, well wrapped up, but do not pass a moment of daylight down stairs, except when at meals or in very rough weather. The deck steward will even bring you your meals, if necessary. If the ship pitches violently, lie with your head to- ward the bows. If you are well, and wish to remain so, avoid heavy food, heating liquors, intense appli- cation to books or cards. Just live, eat, and sleep- and when you reach land you will be amazed to observe how you are rested. Avoid late suppers. Get up early, and get on deck at once. When you are approaching land the question of stewards' fees will come up. We should say give the steward who waits on you at table lUs. ; your berth-room steward somewhat less, according to the trouble you have made him, and the deck steward about 5s. ; the "boots" and bath-man must be remembered if you have been served by them. But if you cannot afford so much, give less; the servants expect something, but they never grumble at the amount. Landing at Queenstown is very simple. You go off in a tug, which transports you up the bay from Roches Point (see Ireland). Customs formalities same as on Landing at Liverpool. — We strongly advise tourists to leave the steamers at Queenstown, and go through Ireland first, but we feel convinced that large numbers of them will proceed to Liverpool. The landing ar- rangements at this great port are not so perfect as they might be, and have recently suffered some small alterations. Passengers formerly left the steamers in tugs, and came up to the Prince's Landing Stage, where there is a kind of custom-house, and where they were usually kept waitii^ ..bout an hour. Now ships usually go into dock before discharging passengers. The custom-house officers search for cigars and spirits only; if you have neither, you will soon have your "luggage" on a cab or dray, and be on your way to the North Western or Midland Railway stations, or to your hoteL Money — A Word of Explanation. In Great Britain the money is pounds, shillings, and pence (£ s. d.). In France, Belgium, Switzer- land, Italy and Spain there is a decimal currency. In the first three countries the reckoning is in francs and centimes; in Italy it is in lire ana centesimi ; in Spain, pesetas, reales and centimos. But gold coins of any of the five above-named countries circulate freely in all of them. The French twenty-franc piece, called napoleon, or louis, is current money anywhere in the Continent. In Holland the money is reckoned in guilders and cents. There are 100 cents in a guilder, which is 40 cents of our money. In Germany the reckoning is in marks and pfennigs. The mark is about 24 cents gold, and there are 100 pfennige in it. When you give one pfennig to a begs-ar, he never troubles you again. In Austria you must reckon in gulden and kreutzers. The gulden is 40.6 cents of our money, and is divided into 100 kreutzers. In Austria there is now a new system in which the unit is a crown, which is equivalent to a fraction over 20 cents of our money, divided into 100 heller. You will observe that in giving the local railway fares in these different countries, we have used abbreviations : Pounds, shillings, pence, £, s., d. ; francs and centi- mes, fr., c. ; lire and centesimi, 1., c. ; pesetas, p. ; etc. In Portugal the money is counted in reis, of which it X yi A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL takes ten to make one cent. In Russia rubles and kopeks are the money. The gold coins most in use on the lines of travel which you are likely to take are sovereigns and half-sovereigns (English) ; — the guinea (21s.) no longer exists, although it is still used in reckoning ; — twenty, ten and five franc pieces ; twenty-mark and ten-mark pieces. In Sweden, Xorway and Denmark the krone ($0,268) is the basis of reckoning. Be careful not to bring Italian or Austrian paper to Paris or London. You will lose very heavily on it. English, French and German bank notes are as good as gold. The French have notes of fifty, one hundred, five hundred, and one thousand francs, and these are extremely convenient to carry on the Continent, but they are not current in other countries. (See Comparative Table of Moneys following title-page.) Railway Travel. — You will find first, second, and third class everywhere (save upon the English Midland Railway and a section of the Great Northern, which * have no second class) ; and we have given the fares for each class in all cases when practicable. Express trains on the Continent have no third class ; but in Great Britain nearly all trains have it. First-class is best for long jour- neys , second good enough for short ones ; and third worth taking now and then, particularly in England and Germany, for the purpose of study- ing the common people. Second-class in Germany and Austria is almost as comfortable as first-class in England and France. On a long journey from France into Germany, you may frequently take "a mixed" ticket with advantage, i. e., first in France and second in Germany. A erentle- A WORD OF EXPLANATION xvii man traveling alone and not afraid of a little fatigue may take third-class through from London to Glasgow or Edinburgh, or from London to Liverpool, saving just half the sum he Avould expend in first-class. la England and Great Britain, generally, people speak of "taking" a ticket and "booking" a place. The " booking-office " is where, the tickets are sold. The conductor is called the " guard." This phraseology appears to have been left over from the old coaching days. Be sure and attend to your "luggage" care- fully. Get a label pasted on any piece that you pro- pose to leave in the "luggage van," and when you reach your destination, be on hand to claim your things. There is no checking system. Small bags, wraps, etc. can always be left in a "cloak room" at any railway station for hours or days. Fees trivial. Employes are civil and obliging, but all expect small compensation. Do not make the mistake, either in Great Britain or on the Continent, of giving large gratuities. In the British Islands smoking-carriages are provided on every train; in Erance and some other Latin countries smoking is permissible, by general consent, in any carriages except those reserved for ladies only ; in Italy, only in smoking compartments ; in the Ger- manic lands smoking is wellnigh universal, although every train has its damen-coupe, and its compartments Fur nichtraucher. The coupes, or end compartments with windows in front, — another survival of diligence and coach customs, — may be hired at reasonable charges above the first-class fares, and should generally be engaged beforehand at the station. In Erance and Middle Europe generally the tariff is about 16 francs per seat per thousand kilometres. A party of four, going through from Paris to Cologne, or commg from Nice to Paris, will find a coupejworth taking, Do not xviii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. trust too implicitly to information furnished by rail- road and steamship officials, for it may be mislead- ing. Among R. R. guide books, " Bradshaw," price 6d., is the most compact for Great Britain; the Chaix " Guide des Chemins de Fer de l'Europe " will do for the Continent. It contains all that may be found in the local guides published in Germany, Switzerland, etc., costs only 40 cents, and is corrected several times yearly. Most guides are furnished with maps, from which you can gain very clear ideas of the location of the lines along which you travel. On excursions, re- member that return tickets can generally be had at a discount from the regular fares. Return tickets are usually available only on the day on which they are sold, and by the first train of the next. Saturday tickets, however, generally extend until the first Mon- day train. On the Continent the terms for returns are much more liberal than in Great Britain. " Cir- cular tickets" are issued in nearly all countries, and ample information concerning them is given at rail- way stations, hotels, banks, and in the newspapers. There is usually a saving — (there is certainly great convenience) — in buying these circular tickets, espe- cially to those who, for example, wish to go from Paris to Switzerland, and after visiting that country to return directly to France. There is a great variety of excursion tickets and hotel-coupon arrangements, by which inexperienced travellers, or those who do not care to explore their own routes, may be aided in travelling, passing all over the Continent and the Levant under efficient chaperonage. Prominent among these is the agency of Messrs. Thos. Cook & Sons, Messrs. Raymond & Whitcomb, and Messrs. Henry Gaze & Sons. There are sleeping -curs RAILWAYS. XIX on many English and Continental lines ; in Great Britain are like our own; on the Conti- nent the ' ' Mann Boudoir Car " is in use. This latter is very comfortable, but the rates are extrava- gantly high. The Boudoir Cars are called wagons- lits, ''bed- wagons," in most Continental countries; their office in Paris is No. 2 Rue Scribe. Between Paris and Vienna, Paris and Geneva, Paris and Turin and Florence, and often Rome also, Paris and Berlin and Russia, etc., there is a regular sleeping-car service. The Russian cars are larger and more elegant than the other Continental ones; and in Russia and Switzerland a modified Ameri- can railway-carriage, in which, however, class dis- tinctions are kept up, is in use. The amount of baggage carried free in France, Spain, and Sweden is 66 pounds; in North Germany, Austro-Hun- gary, Holland and Russia, 55 pounds ; in Great Britain, any reasonable amount ; in South Germany, Belgium, Italy and Switzerland, there is no free bag- gage, but the rates are not extravagant. In some parts of Italy and Switzerland there have been great complaints that baggage has been plundered in transit by baggage-masters and trainmen; hence the necessity for first-rate locks already men- tioned. Parcels, and baggage when forwarded to be called for later, should be sealed. Indeed, the railway companies generally insist on this, and refuse articles which appear to be insecurely fastened. In all Continental countries, when your baggage is weighed, a receipt is given you, and the number on it corresponds to that pasted on the trunk or valise. Even if there is no excess of weight, you must have a receipt. In some cases, in going from an important city in one country to an impor- tant city in another, your baggage can be "registered through," and examined when it reaches destinations ~XX A CHAPTER, ON TRAVEL. in others, although registered through, it' must be ex- amined at the frontier. The examination is a pure formality almost everywhere. In vexatious cases noth- ing is gained by grumbling and scolding. Small fees to railway servants, guards, etc., always meet with prompt return in civility and privilege. At all German and Swiss railway depots, apply to the portier for information. In Italy the railway facchini are paid according to tariff, — 4 soldi (cents) for a trunk, 2 for a bag or valise, and in proportion for a bundle of wraps, etc. In Rome, however, this tariff is raised to 5 and 3 soldi. The refreshment rooms in England, Scotland, Italy, Spain, and North Germany are not very good; in other countries they are excellent. On long journeys curry your own basket, especially in Italy and Spain, where fruit, bread, and wine may be had in the open-air markets for a song, but in hotels are purposely held very dear. In Italy and Eussia a window on the wind- ward side of a railway carriage cannot be kept open if any person in the compartment objects. Hotel Expenses must naturally vary much according to taste and in- come of the traveller. Our lists of hotels are carefully selected, and we believe that the houses recommended will be found satisfactory. Great Britain is an ex- pensive country by comparison with Switzerland or Italy; in Germany cities are expensive, small towns and country cheap. The American will notice with some surprise that life in Europe is, as a whole, no longer much if any cheaper than in America. To live even carefully at a first class-hotel in any part of Great Britain costs about four dollars or four dollars and a half daily, divided somewhat as follows : breakfast, HOTEL EXPENSES. Xxi from two and six (two shillings and sixpence) to three and six; lunch, about same price; dinner, without wine, five shillings ; room, from four and six to eight and six, and invariably one and six for attendance. Wines are as dear, with few exceptions, as in the United- States. There are, however, good hotels, where you may live at about ten shillings daily; and private boarding-houses in the large cities where it will cost from seven to ten shillings daily — rarely under ten. A person very economically inclined may possibly live for six shillings daily, but not in rapid travel. On the Continent you may calculate that if you reach a hotel at nightfall, dine or sup and sleep, and take early breakfast there, your bill will be 12 or 13 francs. For a stay of some days you may manage not to spend more than from ten to fourteen francs daily. In large capitals, simply take room at your hotel, and your first meal there. The others can be had to suit your purse and con- venience at restaurants. In Germany, Switzerland, and some parts of Italy, the tables d'hote are cheaper than the restaurants. If you want a cheap room in a hotel, say so ; there is no surprise at economy in Europe. Travellers should carry th3 within 24 hours in all countries. W 7 hen you buy a parcel and order it sent to your room, give the num- ber of the chamber, and not your name. Fee the portier at Continental hotels ; he will be useful. Give one of your dining-room waiters something, but give to only one. Never mind the head waiter's sardonic frown. In France you will save money by taking your meals at the hours when the natives take theirs; out of hours you pay special prices. By asking for "ice- xxii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. water," you can now get it almost everywhere In Middle Europe drink ordinary wines, and dilute them with water, except at evening. The vin ordinaire is pure and wholesome in all coun- tries. Examine your bills, and don't allow over- charges. Ommbu3 from station is generally charged in bill. Baggage porter expects small fee when you go away. Insist on having your bill when you ask tor it. You will find English spoken in almost ah hotels. You can always post letters and generally send telegrams from your hotel, unless in some small country town. Telegraphy is cheap in nearly all European coun- tries. Before leaving America tell your friends to write to you, care of your bankers in London or Paris ; if you keep your bankers advised of your address you will never miss a mail. Reg ister your name at the London and Paris offices of your banter's; and you may thus find friends or acquaintances who happen to be travelling abroad. In Paris, you will find the larger bankers well pro- vided with post-offices, reading-rooms, and informa- tion about travel. If you need a courier (but you really do not), ask your banker or landlord for the address of one. Couriers are expensive luxuries. We think all necessary information about cabs will be found in the text of the volume. Diligences are to be avoided as much as possible. In some places they CAUTIONS. xxiii are, however, indispensable. On steamboats on lakes and streams you may usually take free about twice as much baggage as by rail. Always make your bar- gains beforehand for private carriages. A few Cautions as to small matters may not be out of place. Should you go shopping on the Con- tinent, especially in France, Belgium, Switzerland, or Italy, try to make up your mind from your in- spection of an article in the windows whether you want it or not. The window is really the shop ; everything is plainly marked, and if you go in and come out again without buying, the skopkeeper considers that you have made him waste his time, and does not conceal his disappointment from you. Should you take furnished apartments, be sure and inspect the inventory made of them before you move in. Do not violate any regulations, municipal or general, however trivial and useless they may seem, for the laws are rigidly enforced. Secure seats at the theatres at least 24 hours before you intend to go, otherwise you will be badly placed. After climb- ing a Swiss mountain pass, be careful not to take cold; imprudence in the mountains often ruins a whole summer. Wraps must be taken into galleries, churches, and palaces, especially in Italy, even in summer. In passing from sunshine to shade, gather your garments about you, and avoid chills. Treat servants iii France and other Latin countries and in Switzerland as you would in America, but in Great Britain and Germany and Austria keep them at a distance; they do not un- derstand democracy, and would impose upon you. If you go to Sipost.e restante (general delivery post-office), present your name plainly written or printed on a card. In making pedestrian tours in out-of-the-way districts, xxiv A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL "do not lose your temper if the local officials are a little curious about your movements. In case of sudden illness in France, Italy or Switzerland, call an American or English physician, if you can find one. Failing that, a local physician who has had practice among foreigners is better than one who has not. Language is not po great a barrier to communica- tion as is imagined. If you get into a corner of Europe where no tongue that you can speak is under- stood, use English just as if the people knew what it meant, and make si^ns. You will get on famously. The little list of phrases at the end of this volume may be found an aid to those who have some familiarity with those languages most spoken in Europe. On general principles, however, it is better to use what little y~>u know of a foreign language than to seek interpreters. You will be presumed to know more than yot» express, and you will make better bargains. Go to the United Skates Consul for information when you are really in d^ubt and need advice. Not even then, if he is a political appointee and net a practical man. In the latter case only is he likely to have that acquaintance with the language, laws and customs of the place, whereby he can aid you;, whi!e r if he has an important office ^nd attends to it, ha has little time for strangers wui^ w-Oin© without *< business reason for their call. GOLFING-CYCLING. xxv Golfing. Tne opportunties for golf on the Continent have greatly increased during the past few years, many of the hotels in the resorts largely patronised by English and Americans having had links laid out. Golf clubs having more or less desirable courses have been established in the following places: — Belgium — Antwerp, Bruges, Brussels, Ostend, Vianden ; France — Aix-les-Bains, Arc'achon, Argeles, Beaulieu-sur- Mer, Biarritz, Boulogne, Cannes, Costebelle, Dieppe, Dinard, Gavarnie, Hyeres, Nice, Parame, Paris, Pau, St. -Jean de Luz, Sainte Marguerite (Pornichet Sta- tion) ; Germany — Baden-Baden, Berlin, Bremen, Dresden, Homburg, Wiesbaden; Gibraltar; Holland — Arnheim, Doom, Haarlem, Hague, Hilversum, Leenwarden; Italy — Como, Florence, Rome, San Remo, Sorrento, Spezia, Varese; Portugal — Oporto; Russia — Moscow, St. Petersburg; Sweden — Gothen- burg; Switzerland — Maloga, St. Moritz, Samaden. Cycling. The chief inconveniences of a cycle tour on the Continent are those due to the customs regulations in the different countries. At nearly every frontier the tourist is obliged to pay the regular duty imposed upon wheels imported for sale, but on leaving the country this duty is refunded. The following is the deposit required in each country, the amount in each case being reduced to its American equivalent: Austria, $10; the tourist must swear to a declaration that he intends to remain only temporarily in the country, and that his wheel is not for sale; on leav- ing the country the deposit will be refunded; Bel- gium, 12 per cent, ad valorem; if intending to leave the country, by rail, the tourist must write in ad- vance to the custom-house official at the frontier, en- xxvi A CHAPTEB ON TRAVEL. closing receipt and stating on what train he will pass through; the money will then be refunded when the frontier is reached. Denmark, 10 per cent, ad valorem; special permit must be obtained if tourist intends to leave through another custom house; a lead seal must be attached to the wheel as a receipt. England, free. France, 25 cents per pound; a lead seal is attached to the wheel as a receipt, and the tourist may leave by any frontier. Germany, free for tourists ; in this country bicycles will not be taken on the express trains. Holland, free for tourists. Italy, $8. Luxembourg, 3 cents per pound. Portugal, 27 per cent, ad valorem; a seal required as in France. Russia, $7.80; a seal and permit re- quired as in Denmark. Spain, 5c. per pound; and in addition the tourist must obtain a special pass good for six months, for which 20 cents is charged ; the frontier officials are sometimes exacting, and it may be wise to secure the services of a custom-house broker. Sweden and Norway, 25 and 30 kr. respect- ively ; if the tourist intends to enter the country through any but the principal custom houses he must obtain a permit from the Director General of Cus- toms, and he must leave the country by the same route that he entered; his deposit will be forfeited if he remains over sixty days ; Switzerland, 6c. per lb. Any American wheelman intending to voiir on the Continent, if ho is not already a member of the L. A. W., should join that organization, as it gives him many privileges. The governments of Italy, Belgium and Switzerland now permit touring mem- bers of the L. A. W. to pass their respective frontiers without making a deposit. There is also an alliance between the League and the Cyclists' Touring Club of Great Britain, whereby a member of one may be admitted to temporary membership in the other without ext^ fee,. The Touring Club de France AUTOMOBILING xxvii may also be joined by League members at slight ex- pense, and with membership in those two clubs one obtains road books free, reduction in rates at hotels, and many other advantages. The wheel should be provided with a brake, a bell or gong, and a lantern. It must be boxed for the steamship very strongly and not merely crated ; a bicycle trunk, though expensive, is advisable. There is a charge for freight on most lines. If the tourist has the precaution to take a second chain and extra nuts, together with a serviceable repair kit, he may be spared much vexation and loss of time and money. Automobile Regulations. The steamship companies insist that automobiles be crated before being accepted for transportation to or from Europe. The expense of this is about $100, but the box can be stored with the steamship company or the forwarding company and used for t he return voy- age. The channel steamers between Great Britain and the Continent have every facility for carrying uncrated cars without risk. The motoring tourist should always have with him a passport, an official certificate of his ability as a driver, and a maker's certificate giving date of sale, value, weight, type of car, capacity, etc. It will be to his advantage in many ways to become a member of the Touring Club of France. The following is a synopsis of the custom house rules and police regulations in the most fre- quented countries of Europe: France. — The duty is at the rate of 50 francs for each 100 kilogrammes, if the car weighs more than 125 kilogrammes (275 lbs.), and 120 francs if it weighs less than this. The amount must be deposited on entering the country, and will be refunded when leaving the country (within six months) on presenta- xxviii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL tion of the deposit receipt at the frontier. The speed limit is thirty kilometres (about 19 miles) in the country, 20 kilometres (about 13 miles) in villages; in narrow roads or streets the car must not exceed the speed of a man walking. These rules are not strictly enforced if the car seems to be under com- plete control. At night a white and a green light must be displayed in front. Germany. — The duty is 230 marks, which is sel- dom demanded if the driver has a passport and can prove that the car has been in his possession a rea- sonable time. The amount paid will be refunded when the car leaves the country. The regulations vary in different towns and parts of the empire; in many places certain streets are forbidden to automo- biles, and in one little principality at least the en- trance of motor cars into the capital is not allowed when the ruler is "in residence." Holland. — The duty is 5 per cent, ad valorem, re- payable on leaving the country; it is seldom exacted unless the car is manifestly new. The speed limit is 20 kilometres (about 13 miles) in the country, 8 kil- ometres (5 miles) in villages, over bridges, down hill, at night, and in foggy weather. A permit must be obtained from the Secretary of Public Works and must be countersigned at the custom house; blank permits may be had from the Netherlands Automo- bile Club, The Hague, on payment of 4.20 gulden (50 cts.), Every car must carry two lights and a horn or bell respectively visible and audible 350 feet. Belgium. — A duty of 12 per cent, ad valorem, re- payable at the frontier when leaving the country, is required. Lamps and horns are required, cars must proceed slowly in towns and when crossing bridges, and in all cases must be under control and must not exceed a reasonable speed. Great Britain and Ireland. — There is no duty on automobiles. Lights and sound signals are re- AUTOMOBILING xxix quired and a reasonable speed must not be exceeded. To avoid accidents the driver must observe the rule of the road and pass to the left instead of the right. Switzerland. — The duty is 20 francs per 100 kil- ogrammes, repayable when leaving the country. Each car must carry a white and a green light in front and a red light behind, a good horn, and two brakes, each one capable of stopping the car within two metres (33 feet) on a decline or when ruuning at full legal speed. The speed must not exceed 30 kil- ometres (about 19 miles) in the country, 10 kilometres (6£ miles) in cities and towns or on mountain roads, and 6 kilometres (3'f miles) on bridges, in narrow streets, and whenever warning signs demand it. The car must stop when meeting a horse that appears frightened or when a government stage-coach is met. There are a number of other regulations, some of them vexatious and unreasonable. Indeed, automo- biles are unpopular in Switzerland, and in case of accident, no matter where the blame lies, the motor driver is usually held accountable. A permit is necessary unless the owner has Dne from his own government and that government is one which recip- rocates in this respect with Switzerland. Austria. — The duty is 130 kroner (about $26) for the car and 18 kr. ($3.50) for every 100 kilogrammes (220 lbs.) weight of the motor. This sum is refunded when the owner leaves Austrian territory, Italy.— The duty varies from 200 lire ($38.60) for a car weighing up to 500 kilos (1.200 lbs.) to 600 lire (115.80) for one weighing over 1000 kilos (2,400 lbs.) The amount will be refunded on leaving the country within six months. The driver must obtain a permit within five days, either on the basis of reciprocity, if that exists with the country granting his original licence, or after proving to the authorities by actual test that he is a competent driver. Russia. — There is a vexatious amount of red tape xxx A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL to unravel in order to drive a motor ear into Russia. A special permit must be obtained from the Secretary of Finance, an^ one who gets the permit within a week of his applanation is to be congratulated. The application for the permit, which must be made on stamped paper (80 kopeks, about 40 cents), must state how long the driver expects to be in Russia, at what town the car will enter, and from what town it will leave the country. The duty paid will be re- funded some time or other, but usually not until some weeks after the car has left the country. ^ Spain. — The duty paid is refunded on leaving the country. The speed ] aws are not irksome. Denmark. — No carty is required if the owner makes declaration that he is touring and intends to make only a temporary stay in the country. Reimportation into the United States.— The regulations of the U. S. Treasury Department pro- vide that the owner of an automobile of foreign manufacture on which duties have been paid may, after its identification and the issue of a certificate by customs officers on his application, take it abroad for touring purposes, with the right of free entry on its return with him or within thirty days after him, provided that no repairs, improvements, or additions were made to the automobile, except absolutely neces- sary repairs costing not more than 10 per cent, of the original appraised value. Cars of American manufacture will be admitted on their return free of duty, provided that they shall not have been ad- vanced in value or improved in condition and that all repairs made thereto were absolutely necessary and did not cost more than 10 per cent, of the original price of the car ; and provided further that it shall be shown that the accessories are those taken abroad under the certificate. Customs Regulations All persons on their arrival in the United States CUSTOMS REGULATIONS xxxt are required to make a declaration of dutiable articles obtained by them abroad. The declaration will be verified on the pier by careful examination of the contents of the packages. The senior member of a family may include all the members thereof in his or her declaration. State the exact number of pieces of baggage in which your effects are contained. Give the cost or foreign value of each dutiable article. As far as practicable, keep your original receipted 1 bills for all purchases of any importance during your stay abroad. When packing your baggage for your return trip, it would be well to prepare a list of articles so pur- chased, with the prices paid for each. If these articles are so placed in your trunks that you can easily find and exhibit them for appraise- ment, much time and inconvenience will be saved. Each person is entitled to bring in fifty cigars or three hundred cigarettes for his own use. All cigars and cigarettes in excess of this number and less than three thousand are liable to seizure, but in meritori- ous cases may be released by the payment of a fine ' equal to the duty and the internal revenue tax. Duties will be assessed at the foreign market values at the time of exportation with due allowance for wear or depreciation. A failure to declare duti- able articles in your possession will render the same liable to seizure and confiscation and you to criminal prosecution. In case passengers are dissatisfied with the values placed upon dutiable articles, they have the privilege to demand a re-examination, but application therefor should be immediately made to the deputy collector at the pier. If, for any reason, this is impracticable, the packages containing the articles should be left in tustoms custody and application for re-appraisement made to the collector at the custom house in writing XXxii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL within two days after the original appraisement. No request for re-appraisement can be entertained after the articles have been removed from customs custody. Baggage intended for delivery at another port may ite forwarded thereto upon application, without the assessment of duty at the port of arrival. Any baggage or personal effects in transit through the United States to any foreign country may on application be forwarded to the port of departure. The officer taking your declaration will advise you on this point. Representatives of various railroads and express companies will be found on the pier and will take charge of your baggage and forward it to destination if desired. Government officers are forbidden by law to accept anything but currency in payment of duties, but if requested will retain baggage on the pier for twenty- four hours to enable the owner to secure the cur- rency. It is unlawful for customs officers to receive any * l tip" or gratuity, and to offer the same is a violation of law. Passengers are requested promptly to report to the Secretary of the Treasury, the cpflector at the custom house or to the deputy collector at the pier any dis- courtesy or incivility on the part of customs officers. A resident of the United States returning thereto is entitled to bring with him, free of duty, personal effects taken abroad by him as baggage, provided they have not been remodelled or improved abroad 80 as to increase their value, and, in addition thereto, articles purchased or otherwise obtained abroad, of ft total value not exceeding $100. Such articles must be wearing apparel of the person bringing them or for personal use on the voyage. CUSTOMS REGULATIONS xxxiii (To prevent the use of the foregoing provision as a cloak for smuggling, customs officials are in- structed to inquire into the bona fides of the journey and the actual ownership of the goods. Either the presence of an unusual amount of any class of highly dutiable merchandise or frequent and hasty journeys is sufficient to raise the presumption of bad faith. Such cases will be subject to most careful scrutiny and prosecution.) All articles obtained abroad, whether exempt from duty or otherwise, should be declared, and an allow- ance of $100 for articles obtained abroad will be made by the deputy collector upon the pier. Non-residents of the United States are entitled to bring with them as baggage free of duty all wearing apparel, articles of personal adornment, toilet articles and similar personal effects in actual use and neces- sary and appropriate for the wear and use of such persons and their present comfort and convenience, not intended for other persons or for sale. Non-residents for the purposes of customs admin- istration are divided into three classes: First — Actual residents of other countries. Second — Persons who have been abroad for the purpose of study, restoration of health, or for other specific objects, and have had a fixed foreign abode for one year or more. Third — Persons who have been abroad for two years or more for any purpose whatever, and who have had during that time a fixed place of abode for one year or more. Household effects of persons or families from for- eign countries will be admitted free of duty if actu- ally used abroad by them not less than one year, and not intended for any other person or for sale. The law expressly forbids the importation into the United States of garments made in whole or in part xxxiv A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL of the skins of prohibited fur seals, and unless the owner is able to establish by competent evidence and to the satisfaction of the Collector either that the garments were purchased prior to December 29, 1897, or that the animals from which the skin was taken was captured elsewhere than in prohibited waters, entry will not be allowed. Residents who desire to take sealskin garments abroad may have the same registered with the Col- lector. THE COMPLETE POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROPE. IRELAND. THE majority of American visitors to Europe go first to Great Britain, leaving a tour through the picturesque and interesting island of Ireland among the possibilities of the last days of their pil- grimage. Our own impression is that those who go abroad as early as May or June would do better to land at Queenstown, if their ships stop there, and make a brief trip through the Emerald Isle, and quitting it either via Belfast for Glasgow, or via Dublin and Kingstown, crossing the Irish Channel to Holyhead in 4 hrs., and going from Holyhead to Chester, Liverpool, and thence northward to the English Lake District, or to London, as best suits their humor. Thousands of persons return to the United States without having set foot in Ireland. They intended to go there ; but after their long season of travel on the Continent they get back to London somewhat wearied, as well as economically inclined, and the result is that they hasten to take ship forf home, seeing naught of Ireland but the bold lines of ' its coast and the round towers which cap its highest cliffs. * QUEENSTOWN Ireland is worth a visit of 3-5 days, and our ob-,' ject is to show the tourist how he may spend those! days to advantage in that country. The steamships of the Cunard and White Star lines call at Queens- town, coming from and going to New York, Boston and other ports. Tugboats speedily convey passengers with their baggage from Roches Point, where the steamers stop, up to the town proper ; and the noble port with its green water, the verdant hills crowned with handsome buildings and protected by fortifica- tions, and the pretty groves and forests, out of which white villas peep, form a picture doubly pleasing to ike eye of the visitor, after he has for many days seen nothing but sea, sky, and the ship that brought him over. Queenstowii (Queen's Hotel) is on Great Island, which lies in the magnificent bay or arm of the sea into which the river Lee pours its waters. The town was formerly called the " Cove of Cork," and received its present name after Queen Victoria paid it a visit. It is built on the face of a hill sloping down to the shore ; has a Catholic cathedral and a fine Protestant church, and a trifle more than 10,000 inhab. Invalids are attracted to Queenstown by the extreme mildness of its climate. Kev. Charles Wolfe, who wrote the famous lines on the burial of Sir John Moore, died of consumption here in 1823, and is buried on the island. The immense harbor of Cork, large enough to afford shelter to the combined navies of Europe at once, in its basin 10 square M. in area, is well defended by forts on either side the channel of entrance. On bpike Island is Fort Westmoreland commanding entrance to harbor. Hawlbowline Island contains ordnance stores and an armory. Rocky Island is a powder magazine, with 6 huge chambers, holding 10,000 barrel of gunpowder, IRELAND 3 and quarried out of the solid rock. It was into Cork Harbor and Crosshaven Creek that Drake retreated when the Spanish fleet was hotly pursuing* him. He succeeded in hiding his ships so effectually at a spot known to this day as Brake s Pool, that the supersti- tious Spaniards attributed the disappearance to magic. There are three routes from Queeustown to Cork: by rail all the way (Is. 2d., 9d., or 6d.) ; by steamer to Passage and thence by rail (fares same as above) ; or by steamer up the river direct to Patrick's Bridge. " It would be difficult," wrote Sir John Forbes, " to overpraise the beauty of the river from Cork to Queeustown, or the magnificent harbor or inland bay in which it terminates, more especially when these are seen under the influence of a bright sun and brilliant sky." At Monkstown, at a point where the river Lee widens into a lake, stands a castle, now in ruins. Cork {Imperial Hotel ; Royal Victoria; Commercial ; and others), the "capital of the South," has a popula- tion of 80,000. It is situated on both banks of the river Lee, which is crossed by numerous bridges. The Irish name of Cork signifies " a swamp," and well de- scribes the location of the town. The Grand Parade, the South Mall, Great George's-St , Mardyke, and St. Patrick's-St, on which stands a statue of Father Mathew, are the principal avenues. The Queen's College, a handsome quadrangular structure in the Tudor-Gothic style, is situated on a small hill near the S. fork of the stream. St. Ann's Ch. is the most interesting edifice in Cork. It contains the " bells of Shandon," of which Father Prout sang so melodiously. This ch. was built in 1722, and its curious steeple, three sides of which are of limestone, while the fourth is red, is 120 ft. high, and constructed of hewn stone from a Franciscan abbey vers must be held to the tariff. Purchase one of the excellent local guides, for descriptions of the scenery. If the tourist decides to go to Wales and England via Dublin and Holyhead, he can go to Holyhead via the North Wall route for 8s. or 4s., or via Kings- town for 12s. or 8s. We think most American tour- ists prefer the latter route. By rail from Dublin to Kingstown, 6 M.; thence across the Irish Channel, 66 M., 4 hrs. There are two through services to London daily, — ■ one leaving Dublin at 6.45, evening ; the other at 6.45, morning. ■ Tourists who wish to make the jour- ney by day would better go to Kingstown in the even- ing, and sleep on the boat which is to start next morning. This will cost 2s. extra. Then they can breakfast at their leisure, — if the Irish Channel leaves' the in any leisure. Kingstown {Royal Marine Hotel ; Anglesea Arms) is so called because George IV. landed there on a visit to Ireland. An obelisk commemorates the royal land- ing. The refuge harbor embraces an area of 250 acres. Before the present admirable system of " Irish Lights 3 * was completed, many serious accidents to shipping oc- curred near Kingstown. We give a few fares from various points in Ireland to the starting-points in England via Kingstown, as tourists' plans vary widely. Fare from Queenstown direct to Liverpool, Birkenhead, or Chester, 48s., 35s. 6d ; from Queens town to London direct, 69s. 6d., 52s; from Dublin to London direct, 60s., 45s; from Dublin to Liverpool, Chester, or Birkenhead, 30s., 22s. 6d.; irom Dublin to Manchester, 33s. 6d., 25s. The fares to all these places via the North Wall route to Holyhead from Dublin are considerably lower, — from Queenstown to Chester, via North Wall, 38s., 22 MAYNOOTH. — AUBURN. 28s.; from Dublin to Chester or Liverpool, via Nortl Wall, 20s., 15s. 1 _ If the weather is fine, some interesting views on the Irish and Welsh coasts may be had during the crossing to Holyhead. The mail packets, Ulster, Munster> Leimter, and Connaught, are remarkably strong, swift, and spacious. From Dublin to Galway. This route takes one from the E. to the " wild west coast," in 5| hrs. (fares, 23s. 8d., 19s. 8d., lis. 10d.); distance, 126| M. Glasnevin, where Addison, Swift, Tickell, Sheridan, and other celebrities resided ; and Maynooth, where there is a castle erected in 1426 by the Earl of Kildare, and the Royal College of St. Pat- rick, — are interesting. At Mullingar are the remains of an Augustine priory. Athlone is an important mili- tary station. Not far from here the Shannon is crossed by a magnificent bridge. Just beyond Woodlawn, the Connemara Mts. become visible to the r. AtTienry is an ancient town, with ruined castellated gates, walls, and religious establishments. At Oranmore a view of Galway Bay and the xslands of Arran may be obtained. Erom Athlone a car may be taken to Auburn, 8 M. (fare, 6d. per M.). Auburn is " The Deserted Village " of Goldsmith, and its real name is Lishoy ; but since the famous Oliver gave it the name of Auburn, it has always retained it. The most interesting relic in the village is 1 The summer tourist in Ireland will find it to his advan- tage to purchase the monthly time-tables (price, 2d.) of the London and Northwestern, and Midland Elys. These ex- cellent books contain a great variety of information about circular tours in Ireland, in connection with the above-men- tioned lines. IRELAND. 23 She ruined parsonage, where the Rev, Charles Goldsmith, the original of Dr. Primrose in the " Vicar of Wake- deld," struggled for the maintenance of his large family. Gaiway {Railway Hotel, at the station ; Royal) jt' Glasgow, who was buried on the E. end of the cathedral-site. The edifice is pic- turesquely located ; and above it, on terraces almost oriental in their construction, arises the Necropolis, the finest cemetery in the city, with rich shrubber- ies and crowds of monuments ; approached from the cathedral by the Bridge of Sighs. The arrangement of the monuments is very remarkable, and forms a noble background to the ancient cathedral. The most noted monuments are those of John Knox the Re- former, Dr. William Black, Rev. Dr. Dick, and Major Monteith. Climbing to the summit one overlooks the fast city, with its enormous ranges of buildings, and its forests of chimneys, and of masts along the Clyde, and the blue hills of Lanark, Renfrew, and Argyll. The original cathedral was founded in the reign of David I., in 1136. Murdo, the famous architect, built it; and the inscription on his tomb alludes with pride to the fact. The cathedral is 319 ft. long and 63 ft. wide. The W. door is rich and beautiful. Its general design is French, but the mouldings and details are English. The interior contains 147 pillars, and many of the 159 windows are of very beautiful workmanship, The en- trance is by a door in the S. aisle. Before the Refor- mation, the ch. was divided into two parts, and service was held in each. For interesting details, see Fergus- son's Architecture. The * Crypt is unique in beauty, and is certainly one of the most perfect pieces of archi- tecture in Britain. It is supported by 65 pillars (18 ft. high), seme of which are 18 ft in circumference; and illuminated from 41 windows. The piers and groin- ings are of exquisitely beautiful and varied designs. In the centre stands the shrine of St. Mungo. At the S. E. corner is St. Mungo' s Well. See also the tomb of Edward Irving, who died at Glasgow in 1834 SCOTLAND. 65 tn "Rob Roy" there is an interesting description of {;his crypt. Other things to note are the stained- glass windows, executed in Munich, for £100,000 (ex* planations of the windows, 2d.) ; the Dripping Aisle s> so called from the perpetual dripping of water from the roof; the Choir, locally known as the High Ch., now used as one of the city chs. ; magnificent organ here ;. behind it, the chapel and the chapter-house. The curi- ous old ch.-yard is literally paved with stone slabs, with inscriptions to the memory of local notables. The new University, the most imposing modern edifice in Scotland, is approached through West End Park: take the footpath from the bridge over the Kelvin. From the platform, good view. The Univer- sity has a frontage of 600 ft., with fine central tower, 310 ft. high. The architect was the late Sir G. Gilbert Scott. In general style the buildings are Early Eng- lish. The buildings will have cost £500,000. The museum, rich in mineralogy, geology, and natural his- tory, is open daily, 10-3 (admission, 6d.). In the Hunterian Library, valuable series of early printed books. The University was founded about 1450 by Bishop Turnbull. In 1560 Queen Mary endowed it with a moiety of the confiscated Church property in the city. Its renown as a seat of learning culminated in the last century. Cullen and Black, Hunter and lleid, Adam Smith and Watt, are among the great names asso- ciated with it. Near by is the Botanical Garden. The Corporation Galleries of Art have valuable collections of paintings (by Claude, Cuyp, Teniers, Murillo, etc.) ; also a marble statue of Pitt, by Elaxman, and por- traits of the English kings. Galleries open daily, Sun- days excepted. See Si. Andrew's Palace and the Kelvin Grove Park and Museum. The park contains a fountain commemorating the introduction of water ^5 6Q DUMBAKTON CASTLE. from Loch Katrine. In Kelvin Grove is the Industrial Museum. Near the University is the New Western Infirmary. The beautiful squares and terraces in the W. contain the homes of the rich merchants, the "to- bacco lords," and the great ship-builders. Glasgow Green is a park extending 1 M. 'along the Clyde, adorned with an obelisk to Lord Kelson, and the scene of very remarkable open-air preaching on summer Sunday evenings. In this park Prince Charles Edward reviewed his army in 1745 ; and here, also, Watt was strolling when the central idea of the steam-engine occurred to him. To the S. of Queen s Park is the village of Langside, where Queen Mary met with her final defeat, in 1568. A memorial stone marks the spot whence Mary witnessed the battle. Excursions around Glasgow. — To Greenock, by the river ; past the suburb of Govan and the ship- yards of Messrs. Napier, etc. ; the old royal burgh of Renfrew, near which Somerled, Thane of 'Argyll, was defeated and slain in 1164 ; Erskine Eerry, where the Earl of Argyll was captured, in 1685, in the disguise of a peasant ; Dalnottar and the craggy Kilpatrick Hills ; Bowling, near the high ruins of Dunglas Castle and the end of Antoninus's wall ; and Dunglaspoint, with its monument to Henry Bell, who first introduced steam navigation on the Clyde. Dumbarton Castle, at the junction of the Leven (Loch Lomond's outlet) and Clyde, is on a rock measuring 1 M. around and 560 ft. high. Part of it bears the name of Wallace's Tower. The Scottish hero was imprisoned there ; and his huge two-handed sword is still shown. There is a tradition that Satan threw Dumbarton Bock at St. Patrick. The castle is one of four garrisoned in Scot- land by the British army, and commands the Clyde with batteries.. It was the capital of a Roman province, SCOTLAND. 67 and afterwards repelled the Norwegian Vikings. It was held by Robert Bruce in 1309; and in 1571 Capt. Crawford carried it by escalade, at night. In 1652 it was taken by Cromwell's troops. At the portculis may be seen carven heads of Wallace, and Menteith, his betrayer. At the summit the remains of a Roman fort are shown. Queen Mary spent some time here. 2 M. from Dumbarton is the village of Cardross, where stood the old castle in which King Robert Bruce died, in 1829. Greenock {Tontine Hotel; White Hart; Royal; rail, from Glasgow, Is. 6d. ; population, 80,000) is one of the chief sea- ports of Great Britain, and very picturesquely situ- ated. Vast new docks are being built. The ship- yards are among the largest on the Clyde. The ocean steamers for New York take their passengers and mails at the Tail of the Bank. Fine view, from the shore, of the mts. of Argyllshire and Dumbarton- shire. Burns's "Highland Mary" is buried in the old kirkyard. There is a beautiful statue of James Watt, by Chan trey, in a memorial building in Union- St. Travellers going to Oban and Inveraray should take steamer at Greenock. Nearly opposite is Helensburgh (Queen's Hotel; Imperial), a pretty town, much frequented in summer by pleasure- seekers. The Gfareloch is the name of a fine sea- basin (steamers ply on it), which stretches N. from Helensburgh for about 7£ M. Its shores are covered with beautiful villas, Roseneath, Ardincaple Castle, etc. The famous Glen Fruin lies on the E. Another good excursion can be made in one day by Caledonian Rly. to Hamilton, passing thvo\xgh.Ruther~ glen, a royal burgh as early as 1126. Hamilton (County Hotel; Clydesdale) contains many interest- ing historical places. See site of King's Head, where Cromwell lodged during his foray into Scotland; and 68 HAMILTON PALACE. — LANAKK. the old Steeple and Pillory, built in the reign of Charles I. Hamilton Palace, seat of the Duke of Hamilton and Brandon, stands in a beautiful park ; 2 M. S. E. are the ruins of Cadzow Castle. On Both- well Bridge, 2 M. N. of Hamilton, a famous encoun- ter between the Covenanters and the Royal forces took place in 1679- A little beyond is Bothwell, noted for its old ch., where Robert, Duke of Rothesay, was married. Bothwell Castle (admission, Tues. and Fri., 10-3 ; see local guide-books) is on the r. bank of the Clyde, 1 M. from the Tillage. The ruins afford an almost perfect example of Norman architecture. See the circular towers ; remains of the chapel, with shafted windows ; and a circular dungeon called Wal- lace's Beef -barrel. The walls are covered with ivy and wild roses. The walk between Hamilton and Bothwell is extremely interesting. Lanark {Clydesdale Hotel) was the scene of many of Wallace's exploits. There is a statue of him at the parish ch. Corra Linn is 1^ M. S., a beautiful fall of 85 ft. ; and the pretty Bonnington Linn is \ M. beyond. Stonebj/res Linn is 2-§ M. N. of Lanark, near the Cartland Crags. Tickets must be obtained. The Scottish Highlands. A Bound Trip from Glasgow to Glasgow by way of Lock Lomond, Loch Katrine, the Trossachs, and Callander > from Callander to Oban : with. Excursions from Oban t6 Stafa, Iona, and Inverness ; and from Oban to Glasgow > by the Crinan Canal and Rothesay. We recommend this route as giving a wide survey of typical Scotch mt. 3 lake, and coast scenery, within a brief period and at small cost. The trip through the lochs and the Trossachs to Callander begins at the. SCOTLAND. 69 Queen-St. stat. in Glasgow, at 7.40 a.m. Buy a ticket for Inversnaid, the point at which Loch Lo- mond is left (fare, 9s. 3d.), and proceed by train to* Balloch (20 M.). The route passes Dumbarton, and gives a good view of Wallace's Seat; through the valley where, in the parish of Cardross, Smollett, the historian and novelist, was born ; and up the glen of the Leven's transparent water. At Balloch the train stops close to the steamer. Loch Lomond is certainly very beautiful when the sunlight plays upon the water and on the guard- ian mts. It is about 23 M, long, and, at its S. end,. 5 M. broad. Under the base of Ben Lomond it is 120 fathoms deep. The area covered by water is 20,000 acres ; 32 islands are scattered over the lake, bearing ruins of ancient monasteries and castles. Most of these belong to the Duke of Montrose, who uses Inchmurrin, the largest, as a deer-park. " Loch Lomond," says Baddeley, "has neither the match- less depth and delicacy of coloring which character- izes the foot of Loch Katrine, nor the wild grandeur of Loch Coruisk, nor, in fairness let us add, the dignity of Loch Maree ; bitf . . . it blends to- gether in one scene a greater variety of the elements which we admire in lake scenery than any other Scottish loch." The steamer leaves Balloch Castle on the r. ; passes to the r of Inchmurrin, with its ruined Castle, and calls first at Balmaha. Near by is Inchcailloch, the " Island of Women '' (so called because a nunnery once existed there). It is the burying-place of the Macgregors. The next landing- place is Luss, on the 1. ; a picturesque little village,, with a good hotel. Fine view of the lake from Stone Brae hill As boat moves N., the great mass of Ben Lomond comes fully into view. Bowardenna?i, on r., has a hotel. Here is best starting-point for the- 70 BEN LOMOND. — TARBET. ascent of Ben Lomond, 3,192 ft. high, and the favor, ite climb in Scotland. The rough pony-track begins opposite the hotel, and climbs over the ridge between Loch Lomond and the Loch-ard valley. Ascents also are made from Inversnaid and " Aberfoil. In clear weather the castles of Stirling and Edinburgh, and the Firth of Forth, can be seen. Time from Rowarden- nan, 2-3 hrs. ; distance, 6 M. ; pony and guide, 8s. Opposite Rowardeunan is Glen Douglas (Inveruglas. Hotel), from which point a pretty road leads to Loch Long. Glen Douglas can be reached by ferry across the lake. The boat moves on under the shadow of Ben Lomond, and crosses to the 1. bank, to Tarbet affords a good view of Ben Lomond ; it is charmingly situated, 8 M. from head of loch. From thence coach may be taken to Loch Long, or to In- verary by Gleucroe (24 M. ; fare, 8s.). Loch Long {salt water) is separated from Loch Lomond by a well- wooded isiinnus. Glencroe is a wild mt. pass, 860 ft. high. From here the road to Inverary turns N., and skirts the upper edge of Loch Fyne. Inverary {Argyll Arms ; George) is a small town celebrated as the Highland headquarters of the Duke of Argyll {the MacCallum Mor). Inverary Castle, the ducal residence, is an ugly building in the midst of beautiful grounds. This point may be reached by other routes from Glasgow, especially by the steamer Lord of the [des (fares, 7s. 6d., 6s., 5s.). From Tarbet cross Loch Lomond to Inversnaid, where coaches are taken for Loch Katrine. The head of Loch Lomond is 3 M. above. 1 M. above is Rob Roys Cave, a narrow opening in the bank near the water's edge, where it is said that Rob Roy kept his prisoners. Ardturis the last town on the lake; coaches tc Crianlarich (9 M.), whence rly. to Oban. SCOTLAND. 71 Inversnaid has a comfortable hotel. The^e is a scramble for places on the coaches for. Loch Katrine; and the canny Scot exacts 2d. pier dues from each person. The Inversnaid Waterfall is where Wordsworth met the " Highland Girl," of w J, om he sang so sweetly. Opposite Inversnaid is Inveruglas Isle, on which are the ruins of an ancient castle of the Macfarlanes. The road to Loch Katrine (5 M.) lies over a very steep hill, by the hovels pointed out as the former homes of Hob Roy and Helen Macgregor; the Fort of Invers- naid, erected to check the depredations of Rob Roy's band, — Gen. Wolfe was once quartered there ; and Lock Arklet, half-way to Stronachlachar Pier, on a bay near the W. end of Loch Katrine. At the hotel here a good lunch can be obtained. Loch Katrine (or Cateran, " Robbers' Lake ") is Glasgow's reservoir. The water drunk by the 750,000 people gathered on the banks of the Clyde is conveyed from this lovely basin for 34 M. The aqueduct re- quired the building of 70 tunnels, and cost £1,500,000. A Lilliputian steamer (fare, 2s. 6d.) carries you past Ellen's Isle (see "The Lady of the Lake "), the Silver Strand, and the Goblin's Cave ; and affords glimpses of " huge Ben Venue." The loch is 8 M. long, and averages f M. wide. To be seen to advantage, it must have plenty of sunshine, and then it seems " one bur- nished sheet of living gold." You land where all the beauties of the lake are concentrated. If you can, by all means walk up through tlie gorge to the Trossac'hs Hoisl (1 M.). The Trossachs, the " bristling country," gains in loveli- ness in a rainy day. There is something weird in a ride through this leafy glen, with the rain rustling in the trees. The gorge extends from Loch Katrine to Loch Achray, between the range of Ben A'an, on the 72 LOCH ACHRAY.— -LOCH VENNACHAI r. (1,500 ft.), and Ben Venue (2,393 ft.) on the 1. In this labyrinth of rocks and mounds, of oak and rowan and birch, of crag and grove and tarn, the most pro- saic traveller may well become enthusiastic. Walter Scott's poems are good companions here. In Scott's early days there was no road through this pass. The Trossachs Hotel is a pretty (and dear) house. Excur- sions thence to Ben Venue and Ben A'an and the Pass of Beal-nam-bo. By the Aberfoyle coach from the Trossachs you have finer view but you miss the Brig o' Turk and much else of great interest. Distances by Road. — Loch Katrine to Trossachs Hotel, 1 M.; Loch Achray, 2£; Brig o' Turk, 3^; Loch Vennachar, 4£ ; Coilantogle Ford, 7 ; Callander, 9£. Loch Achray is noticeable for its tranquil beauty. It is 3 M. long, and the shores are clad with copse to the very water's edge. "The Lady of the Lake " will be found the best guide here. You next reach the Brig o' Turk, where, in the famous chase, as Sir Walter informs us, "the headmost horseman rode alone." Near this bridge over Achray Water is the blackened ruin of the New Trossachs Hotel. Fine view of Ben V'enue from here. Next comes the Dun- craggan Huts; and then Loch Vennachar (4 M. long), the "Lake of the Fair Valley." On the N. shore is Ben Ledi, the "Hill of God " (2,875 ft.). To climb Ben Ledi by the Pass of Leny is an admirable excursion. Here you are in the real Highland country. The hills are aglow with purple colors; the black-faced cattle with widely projecting horns look down defiantly at you from the steep pasturages; a countryman in kilt trudges by. The coaches rattle past Coilantogle Ford. "Clan -Alpine's outmost guard," where Rodeis- ick Dhu challenged Fitz James, and bring up in CaJ- SCOTLAND. 73 lander. Here you may take train to Stirling and Edinburgh; but if you desire to see the real High, lands, continue on our route. Callander (Dreadnauglit ; Hydropathic; An- caster Arms) is in the centre of a delicious country, 1^ M. from the town are the Bracklinn Falls. A pleas- ant excursion may be made through the Pass of Leny to Strathyre, returning by train (8| M. to walk). It is easy to climb Ben Ledi thence (3 his. ; pony and guide, 10s.), and stand on the smooth green summit where the ancient Druid fires were kept. From Callander to Oban. — Rly. fare, 1st class, 12s. ; time, 3-4 hrs. This line is one of the most beautiful in Scotland, and was one of the most ex- pensive. Including the harbor-works at Oban, it cost £645,000. The line crosses the Teith; skirts the base of Ben Ledi ; and traverses the Pass of Leny, which ex- tends between Callander and Loch Lubnaig. This loch is 5 M. long and 1 M. broad, and surrounded by high nits. Near the Falls of Ijeny is the churchyard of the Chapel of St. Bride, noticed in the " Lady of the Lake." Just beyond Loch Lubnaig the rly. crosses the River Baloag, and passes Strathyre and King's- House stat.j whence Balquhidder and Jjoch Foil can be visited (2 M.). In the graveyard of the old ivy- covered chapel of Balquhidder is the stone said to cover the grave of Rob Roy. The hamlet is intimately connected with the history of the Macgregors. The road now rises, and gives a good view of Loch Earn and Ben Forlich, on the E. It next traverses Glen Ogle. The rly. is constructed on the side, 300-400 ft. above the lowest level. The margin of Loch Dochart, above which rises Ben More, is next passed; after which Crianlarich stat. (coaches to Loch Lomond) is reached. A fine stretch of Highland landscape is seen 74 LOCHAWE.— OBAN. shortly before arriving at Dalmally. Just beyond Dalmally. Loch Awe, one of the most picturesque of the Highland lakes, 22 M. in length, is reached. Near it is Ben Cruachan (3,611 ft.); and in the lake are many islands, the largest being the Island of the Druids. At the N. end stand the ruins of Kilchum Castle; and in the centre of the lake, on an islet, are the ruins of the ancient castle of Ardconnel, a former seat of the Campbells. The rly. descends towards the head of Loch Awe, and crosses the Orchy on a viaduct. From Taynuilt, on Loch Etive, a steamer may be taken, and a circular trip to Clencoe (34 M.) and Balachulish (41 M.) begun. Beyond is Connell Ferry, near the Falls of Connell. To the r. stands the ivy-mantled Ardchattan Priory, built in 1231 by the Lord of Lome, and burned during the wars of Montrose. Oban (hotels, good, but expensive: Gt. Western; Alexandra ; Caledonian ; Station ; King's Arms ; Columbia ; Argyll ; and on the hill, the Craig- Ard) is the most central point for excursions through this weird northern land of lochs and islands, which has .always had a strange glamour of romance about it. It is also the meeting-place of southern fashionables and members of the English nobility and the re- public of letters. Oban extends along and above a pretty bay, and is the most accessible place 1ST. of Glasgow. Vessels can anchor safely within a few yards of the shore. Dunollie Castle, 1 M. distant, nobly placed on a pedestal of rock at the 1ST. end of the bay, and covered with ivy, was built by the Lords of Lome, and is now owned by their descend- ants, the M'Dougalls. The rocky island of Kerr era, 4 M. long, serves as a breakwater to the bay. It was here (in 1263) that Haco, King of Nor- way, met the Highland chiefs who aided him in his disastrous raid on the coast of Scotland. Here, also, SCOTLAND. 75 A.iu A «uv*^x il. died, in 1249. The seaward view from the heights, reached by Craigard road, is very fine, Scott made the popularity of Oban by his poem, " The Lord of the^ Isles," the scene of which is laid here- abouts, and in the islands on the W. Fine promenade along the bay. Dunstaffnage Castle, 4 M. N. E., was the seat of the Scottish, monarchs for more than 3 centuries (a. d. 300-600). There was the famous Coronation Stone, finally removed to Westminster. Admission to the castle, free. To Staffa and Iona is a sea voyage of about 90 jVL (10 hrs.). Boats leave the pier at 8 a.m. Fare, about 20s., including the landings at Staffa and Iona. The steamer passes on the r. Dunollie and Maiden Island, and the Lighthouse, at the S. end of Lismore, near which is the Lad// Rock, where, according to tradition, a vindictive Highlander left his wife to perish by the rising tide. The boat next passes through the Sound of Mull, which separates Mull from the mainland;, crosses the mouth of Loch Aline, on whose shore lived Dr. Norman MacLeod, the former editor of Good Words ; calls at Tobermory, near the mansion of Alex- ander Allan, of the Allan Line ; passes the Caliach Point, whence a good view N. can generally be had as far as Skye ; and then goes S. to The Island of Staffa, 8 M. from Mull. It is of irregular oval' shape, and \\ M. around. This island and Iona are owned by the Duke of Argyll. When the sea is reasonably calm, passengers are conveyed in small boats into the mouth of Fingal's Cave, 60- 70 ft. in height, supporting an entablature of 30 ft. additional. The pillars by which it is bounded on the W. side are 36 ft. high-' on the E. only _ 18 ft. The length is 227 ft. The finest views are obtained througn the end of the causeway at low water. The front and 70 IONA.-CALEDONIAN CANAL sides are composed of countless ranges of columns. A shepherd and his wife were sent to Staifa, to take care of the sheep; but the noice of the wave +o 108 DERBY. the house, which is not usually shown. An Augus- tinian abbey was founded here by Henry II. in 1170, and fell to Sir John Byron in 1540. The grounds and forest are beautiful. The residence has been carefully restored. The ruined ch., " a glorious remnant of the Gothic pile," and the cloister, with a fountain in its centre, are very fine; the poet's mean bedroom is kept as he left it. Many beautiful and art-enriched halls are shown. On the lawn is the monument to Boatswain, Byron's dog. In front of the abbey is the lake, so often mentioned in the poems. Here you are on the border of Sherwood Forest, with legends of Robin Hood at every turn. Robin Hood's Hill and Fountain Dale are near Newstead Ab* bey. 3 M. off is Annesley Old Hall, containing the " antique oratory " mentioned in Byron's " The Dream." Hueknall Ch., where Lord Byron, his mother, and his only daughter are buried, is 1 M. from Linby. Re- turning to Nottingham, spend the night there, and take early train (15f M. : Is. 9d., Is. 6d.) to Derby {Midland Hotel, close to station; St. James; Royal), and thence to Rowsley (fares, 2s. lid,, Is. 9tk1). Derby was the Roman stat. Herventio, and here Richardson the novelist was born. The fine Derby spar is found near by. There are rare old monuments in the Cavendish chapel of All Saints 1 Ch. Derby is the entrance to that delightful region known as The Peak of Derbyshire. Those who do not wish to make detours can reach Derby or Rowsley, from Liver- pool and Manchester, by the Midland Line. The Peak is a picturesque district, containing "that beautiful scenery of the millstone grit and mt. limestone for which the county is so pre-eminent. This scenic in- terest, however, does not arise so much from the ele- vation of the hills as from their romantic grouping and ENGLAND. 109 the bold and varied arrangement of the dales and doughs, which offer exquisite landscape pictures." Reach Rowsley at 9 a.m., and (leaving your baggage — ex- cept umbrella and waterproof — in the stat. cloak-room) make a bargain with a driver, and go at once to Had- don Hall, 1| M. (1 person, 2s. 6d. • 2-3 persons, Is. each. Bargain for the same driver to take you both to Haddon and Chatsworth. If he waits, you must make special terms). Kaddon Hall, on a hill E. of the Wye, which is crossed by a picturesque bridge, is an ancient seat of the Dukes of Rutland. There lived Sir George Vernon (1545), whose profuse hospitality procured him the title of " King of the Peak ; " thence fair Dorothy Vernon eloped to marry her lover, Sir John Manners ; and there, in the State Bedchamber, are the famous tapestries illustrating JEsop's Eables, woven at the Gobelins in Paris. Visitors are shown the Chaplain's Room, the Chapel, the Banqueting -Hall, the Bining-Room, with the inscription, " Drede God and honor the Kyng," over the fireplace • the Brawing- Room, the State and Earl's Bedchambers,, and BeveriVs Tower. Small fee to servant. Chatsworth (3 M. from Rowsley ; 4 M. from Bake- well stat.) is the finest mansion in England. It is a favorite residence of the Duke of Devonshire, and is called the "Palace of the Peak." The old Hall was used as a fortress in the Civil War, both by forces of King and Parliament. The present S. front dates from 1687 ; the E. side, great hall, and staircase, from 1690 ; the N. front, from 1704. See the Conservatory, Great Hall (67 X 20 ft.), Chapel, Grand Br aiding -Room, Libraries, Bining-Room (58 X 30 ft.), Sculpture Gal- lery (103 X 30 ft,), Orangery, Sketch Gallery (original drawings by Angelo, Raphael, Durer, Titian, ztc), State Apartments, Gallery of Baintings (Titian, Salvator 110 MATLOCK BATH. — BAKE WELL. Rosa, Tintoretto, Murillo, Holbein, etc.), State Draiv- ing-Room. Two of the state rooms are called those of Mary Queen of Scots, because she was long a prisoner there. The Arboretum, Conservatory, and Gardens (6d. to gardener) should be seen. The French Garden comes first, then the Camellia and Orchid Houses ; next a copper willow-tree; then the vast Conservatory (276 X 123 ft.). See the Emperor Fountain, and go out by the Italian garden. The Old Hunting Tower and Queen Mary's Bower deserve notice. Chatsworth is open daily (11-5 (Sat. 11-1). Queer old village of Edensor (Chatsworth Hotel, good) outside Park gates. In the church is the tomb of Lord Frederick Cavendish, assassinated in Dublin in 1882. Returning to Rowsley, lunch at the Reacock Inn, an old hostelry, with a pretty garden. (Write or telegraph ahead for rooms.) The famous Matlock Bath (New Bath Hotel) is in the romantic Matlock Dale, on the Derweut. Said Hawthorne: "I have never seen anywhere else such exquisite scenery." Rocky and foliage-clad crags rise 3u0 ft. above the river, and .there are many fine grottos in them. Masson hill, 1,000 ft. high, commands a grand view down the Derwent defiles. Branch line from Matlock to Buxton (St. Anne's Hotel; Palace; Old Hall), 1 hr. from Manchester. Fine springs here, in the Wye valley, efficient in curing rheumatism and gout. 12 acres in public gardens. — Bakewell (Rutland Arms Inn) has a fine ch., with Vernon and Manners monuments. The rural beauty of this section is not surpassed in England. Hardi&ick Hall and Bolsover Castle, both in Derbyshire, are superb mansions, filled with art-treasures. The former may be reached from Clay-Cross stat., between Derby and Sheffield; the latter from Langwith. Burton - on - Trent is the site of vast ale breweries. We now suggest that you go from the Derbyshire district to ENGLAND 111 Birmingham (Queen's Hotel, at New St. station; Plough & Harrow; Cobden). Fares from Manchester to Birmingham, 12s. 6d., 9s. 3d., 6s. llikl.; from Rowsley, 8s. 7d., 5s. 3|d. Yon can leave Nottingham early, go to Rowsley, Haddon Hall, Chatsworth, and Bnxton, and get to Birmingham at night. Birming- ham is the birthplace of Priestley, a centre of liberal thought, and a great manufacturing place (435,000 inhab.). Camden said of old " Bremicham " (Brum- magem ?), that " it echoed with the noise of anvils, for there were a great many smiths." Almost everything that can be made of metal is fabricated at Birmingham. Visit the Elkington's Electro-plate Works ; Gillott's Steel Pen Works ; the Mint ; the gun-works ; the Town Hall, in which are held the renowned triennial musical festivals. New Corpora- tion Offices ; Free Library ; New Post Office ; Mar- ket Hall ; Exchange; Birmingham and Midland In- stitute; King Edward VI.' s Free Grammar School; General Hospital; St. Martin's Ch.; Aston Hall, in the handsome Aston Park. The Botanical Gardens (Is.; on Mon., Id.) are worth notice. Excursions may be made to (13 M.) Wolver- hampton (Star and Garter; Talbot), the metropo- lis of the Black Country, Which has manufacturing trade in tin and iron goods (85,000 inhab.). Things to see : St. Peter's Ch.; Queens-Square, with eques- trian statue of Prince Albert; Library ; Theatre; Orphan Asylum.-— To (29 M ) Stafford (Northwest- ern Hotel ; Swan), a well-built modern town. Izaak Walton was a native of this place. See old timber-houses, especially the Noah's Ark, in Crabbery -S t. ; St. Mary's and St. Chad's Chs.; the Bury Ping; Stafford Castle, J M. out. Leather is the chief industry. — To Kidderminster, fa- mous for the manufacture of carpets. The old ch. Is a fine Gothic monument. A walk through WORCESTER— COVENTRY. ch.-yard commands views of the town and river ur. In the vicinity are the Clent Hills. Richard Baxter preached here 25 years. — To Worcester {Star Hotel; Crown), nearly in the centre of England, and finely situated on an ascent from the Severn. The Foregate-St. is very handsome. The Cathedral is an elegant structure, built in 1024-1374, 394 ft. long, 78 wide, 162 high. Beautifully decorated in the lady chapel, where the roof is covered with figures painted in medallions. The fine stone pulpit in the choir is restored. See the enamelled metal cross above the choir-screen. Among the monuments is King John's, one of the most ancient in England ; statues of Bishops Wulstan, Oswald and Hough; tomb of Prince Arthur, son of Henry V., a fine Gothic bit. The cloisters where the monks once resided are interesting. The handsome decagonal chapter-house is now used as a national school. Other public buildings : Episcopal Palace, close by the Severn; the Commandery; Edgar's Tower; the Guildhall, with royal statues; and the Hopmarhet, the most important in England. Coventry, Kenilworth, Warwick, Stratford=on=Avon. It is a relief to get out of the region of factories into the delightful quiet of old Coventry {Craven Arms; King's Head Hotel; Queen's Hotel). Distance from Birmingham, 18f M. ; fares, 3s. 6d., 2s. 6d., Is. 7^d. Coventry was formerly the third city in the kingdom. Everyone knows the story of Lady Gro- diva. An effigy, called Peep ing Tom, is still exhibited at the corner of Hertford-St. In Richard II. 's time the city was defended by a wall, with 26 towers and 12 gates, some of which remain; but the greater ENGLAND. 113 part of them were destroyed by Charles II. Coven- try retains much of its ancient picturesque aspect, with narrow streets, fine old gables, and half-timber houses, and several hrs. can be profitably spent there. The " three tall spires " of which Tennyson speaks are those of St. Michael's, Trinity, and Christ Chs. St. Michael's, one of the finest Gothic structures in England, was founded about 1133. The charming spire, 303 ft. high, j was built 1373-95. The eh. was rebuilt in 1434, and is 400 ft. long. " Most magnificent, — so old, yet enduring ; so huge, so rich," Hawthorne found it. Trinity Ch. is close to St. Michael's, and was once I a fine specimen oi. Gothic. Dugdale finds a mention of its annexation to the Benedictine Priory in 1260. I Christ Ch. was founded by the begging ^reyfriars. i The spire is the only remaining part of the old ch. ; St. John's Ch., at the N. W. end of the city, is a fine old building, with a massive tower. St. Marys, Hall is a beautiful edifice near St. Michael's. It originally belonged to St. Catherine's Guild, and was built about the middle of the 14th century. The Free School; Grey friars or Ford Hospital; the Workhouse, built out of the remains of the VFhitefriars Monastery (founded, in 1342) ' s and the remnants of the gates, are other objects of in- ' terest. A few fragments of the Benedictine Priory, founded in 1043, are left. About 4 M. out is Stone- leigh Abbey, a place of great antiquity, held before the Couquest by King Edward. Henry II. granted it to a body of Cistercian monks. The site is a lovely one, the Avon 'bathing two sides of the verdant slopes on which the old monastic house was located. There is a fine park in front ; and a road, crossing the Avon by an elegant stone bridge, conducts to the gateway. The building if clothed with ivv, and its ponderou* 114 KENILWORTH. oaken gates are very curious. Within the state apart- ments are many paintings by Rembrandt, Van Dyck, Holbein, Teniers, etc. For those who have time, nothing can be more de- lightful than a leisurely tour on foot from Coventry to Kenilworth, Warwick, and Stratford-on-Avon ; going out from this region of fine old castles, lovely valleys, and beautiful fields, by Rugby, and thence either straight down to London, or to Peterboro', and Ely, making a detour to Cambridge and Oxford. For those who desire to see Kenilworth, Warwick and Stratford, and get away to London at night, there will be no other course than to take a carriage at Coventry, Leamington, Warwick, or Stratford. A beautiful trip is as follows: Go from Coventry (5 M.), by a road shaded all the way by fine elms and sycamores, to Kenilworth {King's Arms; Abbey; Castle), where chief attraction is Kenilworth Castle, standing on an eminence to the W. The first buildings, in a deep hol- low overgrown by underbrush, are the base and. side walls of the Gallery Tower, the S. B. end of the Tilt Yard, and originally the chief entrance to the Castle. Enter by a gate in the N. wall (trifling fee), and first arrive at Leicester 's Gatehouse, a square building of four stories, flanked at each angle with an octagonal tower, and embattled. This building is not entered by visitors, as it is a private residence. Passing on, you come directly in front of the main build- ings; and looking W. have the inner court in full view. The E. side of the square was composed of buildings erected by King Henry VIII. and. Sir Robert Dudley, but is now wholly destroyed. On the r. is Cazsar's Tower, a vast keep of immense strength, w T ith walls many feet thick. Beyond is the building called Mervyn's Tower, which all readers of Scott's novel of Kenilworth will visit. The chambers ENGLAND. 1 15 ^re all arciied with stone, and it is supposed that tbey served as prisons in the time of Henry II. From the top may be seen on the r. the remains of the Swan Tower, which formed the N. W. angle of the outer walls built in Henry III.'s time. Adjoining Mervyn Tower, on the S., is the great Banqueting -Hail, built by John of Gaunt. The floor was supported on a stone vaulting, carried, on parallel rows of pillars, the remains of which may be seen. Notice the great height of the windows, which were filled with tracery, and transomed. Beyond the Banquetmg-Hall are the White Hall, the Presence Chamber, and the Privy Chamber; and still S. are the remains of Leicester's buildings, of great height and remarkable architectural beauty. The cas- tle was founded by Geoffroy de Clinton, Chamber- lain to Henry I. ; to pkss presently to the crown of Henry III. It Avas granted to Simon de Montfort, and became the resort for the insurgent nobles. After Leicester's defeat and death, his eldest son sheltered himself in this fortress ; and there was a famous siege, in which the castle held out for 6 months. In Edward I.'s time a magnificent tournament occurred here. Edward II. lay a prisoner in the castle at one time ; and the visits of Elizabeth to Kenilwortli were in 1566, 1568, and 1575. The last was immortalized by Scott. From Kenilwortli by the highway to Warwick is about 5 M., by Leek Wootton, a village huih on a rocky eminence and quite picturesque. 1 M. beyond is Blackiow Hill, where, from an opening in the trees, is seeu the monument erected to mark the spot on which Piers Gaveston. Earl of Cornwall, was be- headed. \\ M. from Warwick, is Guifs Cliff, the handsome country-seat of Lord Percy, and a place of religious retirement more than 4 centuries previous to the time of Earl Guy Warwick, who is supposed at this 116 WARWICK. place to have finished his life of adventure, as a her. mit. Leland, in Henry VIII.'s time, calls this "the abode of pleasure, a place meet for the Muses." Cam- den, Dugclale, and Fuller are all equally enthusiastic in its praise. Gu/s Cave and Gay's Well are shown. Warwick {Warwick Arms; Dale Temperance: these houses, though comfortable, are small and apt to be crowded ; it is best to telegraph for rooms in ad- vancel is near the centre of beautiful Warwickshire, on a rocky hill, past which the Avon flows. The town is of Saxon origin, and was formerly surrounded with strong walls, of which there are now but few rem- nants. The old gates are interesting ; and the Hospital, founded by the Earl of Leicester, is one of the finest specimens of half-timber buildings. It stands at the W. end of High-St., of which its chapel, which pos- sesses a very beautiful window, forms a striking orna- sneut. Under the chapel is a curious vaulted passage of great antiquity, through which an entrance into the town once passed. A tower, built by Thomas de Beau- champ, in the time of Richard II., rises above the chapel. This formed the W. gateway of the fortifi- cations. It has a richly groined ceiling. In this hos- pital a limited number of brothers are allowed. They have to wear a livery when abroad, consisting of a fine blue broadcloth gown, with a silver badge of a bear and ragged staff, Lord Leicester's device. St. Mary 's is the principal ch. in Warwick. It was founded prior to the Conquest ; and contains many curious monuments, and Beauelwmp Chapel, which is considered the most splen- did in England, after that of Henry VII. Warwick Castle, one of the noblest residences in England, is S. E. of the town, on a high rock which overlooks the Avon. Before entering the castle, walk down to the stone bridge, from which there is a fine ENGLAND. 117 view of the castle. The moonlight view is striking. Enter the castle by a huge gate, and walk up a winding way, bordered by moss-grown rock, to the outer court, formerly a vineyard, renowned for its grapes in the time of Henry IV. On the r. is Guy's Tower, 128 ft. high, 30 ft. in diameter, and with walls 10 ft. thick ; and on the 1. the venerable Casar's Tower, coeval with the Norman Conquest. This is connected with Guy's Tower by an embattled wall, in the centre of which is the great arched gateway, flanked by towers and suc- ceeded by a second, whose towers and battlements rise above those of the first. After passing the double gateway you are in the inner court, and see the great castle directly in front of you. When the family is absent (and it generally is), the interior is shown. The rooms shown are the Great Hall, from which a view is obtained through the state rooms, a straight line of 333 ft., terminated at the W. end by a window. From this great hall may also be seen, at the end of the Chapel Passage, Van Dyck's celebrated painting of Charles I. You pass through the Red Drawing -Room ; the Cedar Draiving-Room, containing a bust by Hiram Powers, and a portrait of Charles I. by Van Dyck ; and next enter the Gilt Drawing-room, which contains many old paintings. The bed and furniture in the State Bedroom belonged to Queen Anne. The tapestry in this room is very fine. The Boudoir is a veritable museum • and the effect of the immense height, and the tree-tops, which come up to the very windows, is curious. Here are pictures by Holbein, Rubens, Vandyke, etc. From thence pass through the Arm- ory Passage to a billiard-room, rich with portraits ; a Compass-Room, the Chapel, and the Library, in which is the famous Kenilworth buffet, made of oak grown on the Kenilworth estate. In the Breakfast 118 WARWICK CASTLE. Room is a fine collection of paintings by Canaletto, who resided for some time at the castle. (Small fee to ser- vant who shows the apartments : for one person, 6d> or Is.; for a party of 4, 2s.) Caesar's Tower, nearly 150ft. high, has a dark and dismal dungeon beneath it t ■on the walls of which are scrawls made by prisoners. Guy's Tower, the top of which is reached by a flight of 133 steps, commands a noble view of Coventry, Kenilworth, Guy's Cliff, Leamington, and the neigh- borhood. The gardens are very fine, and on the hill of the tower are some superb cedars of Lebanon. In the Porter's Lodge are relics of the hero Guy. Hawthorne calls this " one's very idea of an old castle." From Warwick to Leamington is 2 M. A rly. runs from Lea- mington through Warwick to Stratford. (From War- wick to Stratford, 13i M.) The most desirable route, however, is by highway, 8 M. from Warwick, past Charlcote, the country-seat of the Lucys, to Stratford. This is a delightful excursion, and we recommend those who can to make it on foot, that they may linger among the beautiful sylvan scenery, and approach Stratford through the pleasant meadows. Charlcote House is off the route to Stratford, but the drivers usually take you close to it. It is a handsome mansion in th« midst of a beautiful park, well stocked with deer, the sight of which will call to mind the youthful ad« venture of Shakespeare as a poacher, and the prose* cution which decided him to render Sir Thomas Lucy immortal as Justice Shallow. From Charlcote yon pass through numerous fine bits of woodland country, and, crossing the Avon Bridge, enter Stratford-on-Avon (Shakespeare; Golden Lion; lied Horse; Falcon), quiet old-fashioned place, with wide, well-kept streets and many handsome mansions. The Toivn Hall was dedicated to the memory of the ENGLAND. 1 ] 9 poet. Here is a statue of Shakespeare presented by Garrick. On the pedestal see lines from Hamlet : iC Take him for all in all, we shall not look upon his iike again." Very interesting is the Shakespeare Memorial Building and Theatre, which we advise you to visit first on entering the town. This memorial structure, in a charming situation by the Avon, was the outgrowth of the feeling that the poet should have a suitable monument in his native town. From the Memorial go to Holy Trinity Ch., a cruci- form edifice, consisting of a nave with aisles, a transept and chancel, and a square battlemented tower, in a lovely situation by the Avon, surrounded by a ch.-yard full of tombstones, covered with quaint inscriptions. If the doors are not open, the driver will go for the ieys. The ch. contains interesting monuments and some very quaint wood-carvings. The grave of Shake- speare *s in the floor of the chancel, covered by a plain flagstone. On the chancel-wall, near the grave, is an or- namental arch with a bust of Shakespeare, in r„ thought- ful attitude. From this burial-place of genius it is but a short distance to the village of Shottery, where stands, embosomed in foliage, the pretty cottage once the resi- dence of Anne Hathaway. In this humble abode Shakespeare courted his wife. Mrs. Baker, a lineal ( descendant of the Hathaways, shows the quaint inte- rior ; the oaken seat on which Shakespeare and Anne were wont to sit ; many bits of venerable furniture ; And, up-stairs, a vast bed, on which many a Hathaway fias drawn the last breath of life. She also shows a visitors' book, which contains the names of a great num- ber of eminent Englishmen and Americans (small fee}. Return to Stratford, and in Henley-St. you will find the Shakespeare House. This is a fine old half-timber building, ia *uiick the poet was born (1564), and where 120 STRATFORD-ON-AVON. his family long lived. It consists of 3 apartments on the ground floor, one of which is a museum ; of the room in which Shakespeare was born, up-stairs; and smaller rooms, in one of which is the celebrated Strat- ford portrait of the bard, unlike the commonly received "pictures, but believed by many people to be more au- thentic. It was painted over in Puritan times to escape destruction. The room in which the poet was born is in its original state, except that visitors of every nation and every rank have scribbled their names on the walls and windows. The autographs of Byron, Scott, Washington Irving, George IV., the Prince of Orange, the Duke of Wellington, Tom Moore, Charles Dickens, etc., are pointed out. The house is now the property of the nation, having been purchased in 1847 by public subscription. In the museum are early edi- tions of Shakespeare's plays; the deed made in 1596, showing that John Shakespeare, the father of the poet, resided in this house ; a letter from Mr. Richard Quyney to Shakespeare in 1593, requesting a loan of £30, the only letter known to be in existence, addressed to the poet ; Shakespeare's signet ring, with the initials W. S. upon it; an old desk, said to have been his, and re- moved from the Grammar School ; the Shakespeare j'Ug, from which Garrick drank at the Jubilee in 1769 ; and a sword, which once belonged to Shakespeare. Autograph sentiments, written by Washington Irving, by Lucien Bonaparte, and others, are also to be seen. Visitors register their names. The old visitors' books are most curious. The first one, beginning in 1812, may be seen at Mrs. James's, near the Town Hall, in High-St. (Admission to Shakespeare's birthplace, 6d. House open daily, 9-7.) The pilgrim should now come to New Place, where Shakespeare lived during his prosperous latter years, and where he died (1616). It ENGLAND. 121 is to-day merely a well-kept lawn. The house is gone. Opposite is the Guild Chapel, founded in 1269 ; chancel rebuilt about 1450. In the second story of the adjacent Guild Hall is the Grammar School, where Shakespeare was one of the pupils. Visit one or both of the celebrated inns, the Red Horse and the Shakespeare; the former, where you can lunch before returning to Warwick, is a plain, unroman tic- looking house, rendered interesting by the genius of Washington Irving. There Americans are shown the room where he stayed; a chair, with his name en- graved on a brass plate ; the poker with which he poked the fire, etc. From Warwick go by rly. (2 M.) to Leamington {Manor House Hotel), a famous watering-place, with sulphuretted saline springs. The most important building is the Royal Pump Room and Baths. You may go directly from Warwick to London (fares, 15s.6d., lls.lOd., 8s. 6d. ; time, 3hrs. ; distance, 97f M.). Oxford may be visited on the way; but we recommend you to go to Rugby, Peterborough, Ely, Cambridge, and Northampton ; then from Bedford to Oxford and London. You will pass through Rugby {Royal George Hotel; Eagle; Three Horse- shoes), Dickens's Mugby Junction, famous by its Grammar School, founded in 1567. Here the cele- brated Dr. Arnold was head master; and the readers of Tom Broivn will perhaps wish to visit the school. Close by is Castle Mount, where a stronghold stood in the time of King Stephen. 1-J M. out is Bilton Hall, where Addison lived. In the garden is Ad- dison's favorite walk. After leaving Rugby you soon reach Peterborough {Great Northern; Grand; Angel; Bull) anciently called Medeshamstede, and deriving its origin from a noted Benedictine Abbey, estab- lished in 655, shortly after the Saxons had become 122 PETERBOROUGH. Christianized. The Danes destroyed this abbey (8073, and it was restored iu 966. Then the town was named after the saint to whom it was dedicated. The abbey, when Henry VIII. dissolved the religious bodies, was one of the most magnificent in the king- dom, and was selected as the see of one of the new bishoprics. The monastic buildings suffered cruelly during the civil wars ; and the cathedral itself was sadly defaced. It is said that Henry VIII. spared Peterborough Abbey because Catherine of Aragon lay buried within its enclosure. It is a noble Norman structure, 471 ft. long and 180 ft. wide. Mary, Queen of Scots, once reposed here. The cloisters are in excellent preservation. At the W. end of the cathedral is a line court, on the S. side of which a range of the old monastic structures is still erect. The W. front (built 1250), 3 vast open arches, has been called "the grandest portico in Europe." See the noble old oaken roof, the carved oaken screen, the Lady Chapel, the venerable font. Hawthorne said: "Of all the lovely closes that I ever beheld, that of Peterborough Cathedral is the most delightful, — so quiet, so solemnly and nobly cheerful." Most of the beautiful glass and all the records in the cathedral were destroyed by Cromwell's soldiers. The E. end was burned in 1438. In the Ch. of St. John the Bap. tist there are some exquisite figures by Elaxman. Peterborough has a large trade in corn, coal, etc. 2 M. out is Milton Park, the seat of Earl Eitzwilliam. 9 M. distant is Castor, with a perfectly preserved Roman fortress. 21 M. away is Fotheringhay, with a splendid ruined ch., and the ruins of the old Plan- tagenet castle in which Mary, Queen of Scots, was put to death. Erom Peterborough it is 30 M. (fares, 6s. 3d., 5s., 2s. 5|d.) to ENGLAND. 123 Ely {Lamb Inn; Bell). The Isle of Ely is a tract of high land, amid the fens; and here a monastery- was founded by St. Etheldreda (673). A charter was granted by Edgar, confirmed by Canute, Edward the Confessor and the Pope. The isle made an excellent defence against William the Conqueror. The cathe- dral was founded about 1082. The stalls are remark- able specimens of wood-carving. The Galilee is a, beautiful porch. The Central Octagon is a superb Gothic dome, with exquisite details. Note the new oak screen, with brass gates ; the rich marble carvings in the Choir; the Stalls; Bishop Alcoclc's Chapel; Prior Crandene's Chapel; and the ancient Bishop's Palace. There is a Park S. of the Cathedral. The Lady Chapel was begun in the reign of Edward II., and is considered one of the most perfect buildings of its kind. Ely Cathedral is the longest Gothic cathedral (but one) in Europe (537 ft J. The W. tower is 266 ft. high. For technical description see King's Hand-Booh of English Cathedrals, which, is an excellent companion in these ancient towns. From Ely proceed to Cambridge {University Arms; Red Lion; Bull; Hoop; Sirdar; Blue Boar), 56 ? T . from London, and on the Cam, a narrow stream that rambles all over the town. Tradition gives 630 as the date of the foundation of the University; but the oldest college,. Peterhouse or St. Peter's, can only be referred to 1257* The public buildings are the Shire Hall, Town Hall, University halls and library, and Fitzwilliam Museum. There are 17 colleges, inferior in architectural beauty to those of Oxford, though their associations are quite- as interesting. Trinity was founded by Henry VIIL in 1546, and has 3 fine quadrangles; a splendid hall in the Tudor style; gardens; and an important library, with busts of Newton and Bacon. Thorwaldsen's statue 124 CAMBRIDGE. of Byron, Newton's telescope, some of John Milton's MSS., etc. Christ's College, founded in 1442, was Milton's college. In the gardens is Milton s Mulberry* Tree. The . quadrangle was rebuilt by Inigo Jones. Jesus College (1496) and Chapel are very fine build- ings, on the site of a Benedictine nunnery. Caius (pronounced Kees) was founded in 1384, and enlarged iu. 1557 by Dr. Caius, physician to Queen Mary. Re- built lately, it is now one of the best. Corpus Christi (1351) contains curious portraits, especially those of Sir Thomas More, Wolsey, Erasmus, and Foxe, the author of the Book of Martyrs. King's College (1441), founded by Henry VI., is the finest building in the University. The chapel is the finest specimen of perpendicular Gothic existing. The roof, unsupported by pillars, contains 12 divisions of exquisite lace-work tracery in stone. The 24 stained- glass windows, each 50 ft. high, are beautiful. The music is exceptionally fine. The visitor should go to the Sunday service. St. John's, founded by Mar. garet, the mother of Henry VII., in 1511, has 4 quad- rangles, a beautiful chapel, and a rare old library. See also Emmanuel, 1584 (whose graduates founded New England); St. Catherine's (1475); Clare (1326); Downing (180/) ; Pembroke (1347) ; Sidney Sussex (1596); Magdalene (1519) ; Trinity Hall (1347). The most striking part of Cambridge is "the Backs," where the college gardens slope down to the river, overhung by beautiful trees and crossed by handsome bridges. The site of Cambridge is flat, and forms part of the great Fen Level. « Not far from Cambridge is Newmarket, the fa- mous turf resort, which became popular in the days of James I„ who had a hunting-seat here. Near by is Bury St. Edmunds, where an abbey (whose noble ENGLAND. 125 ruins remain) was founded by Canute to commemorate the martyrdom of Edmond. We proceed next to Bedford (Swan; Embankment; George; Red Lion), once the home of John Bunyan. His chair, in Banyan Meeting, Mill-St., may still be seen ; and Bedford Jail, where he wrote a portion of The Pilgrim's Progress, still exists. Bunyan's birthplace was Elstoio, 1 M. from Bedford ; and there his cot- tage and forge are shown. Also a noble abbey-ch. See the fine statue of Bunyan, preaching, and hold- ing the Bible. This stands on St. Peters Green. Scenes from TJie Pilgrim's Progress on pedestal. The Puke of Bedford gave this statue to the town. The philanthropist Howard was born at Cardington, 2 M. distant. The Swan Inn occupies the site of the old castle, destroyed in the reign of Henry III. From Bedford it is but a very short journey to Northampton {Angel Hotel ; George ; Plough), the seat of the boot and shoe manufacture (70,000 inhab.). 20 Parliaments were held here between the the 12th and 14th centuries ; and on one occasion the University was transferred hither from Oxford. The Castle, with the exception of one tower, was demol- ished in 1662. The old Hospital, founded in honor of Thomas a Becket, is near the S. gate. Interesting sights, — St. Sepulchre Ch., built by the Knights Tem- plar, on the plan of Christ's Sepulchre at Jerusalem ; the Town Hall; the Shire Hall. Statue by Chantrey of Spencer Perceval in All Saints' Ch. Queen Eleanor's Cross is 1 M. S. Near this relic Henry VI. was de- feated by Warwick in 1460, AI thorp Park, seat of Earl Spencer, with famous library and picture-gallery, 7 M. out. Go by rail from Bedford via Bletchley to' Oxford {Randolph Hotel, the most modern, with res- taurant i Clarendon; Mitre and Roehuck, in the centrf 126 OXFOKD. of the town, first-class ; King's Arms Hotel ; Golden Gross Hotel). The modern town contains the County Jail, near the old tower of Oxford Castle ; the Town Hall ; and the Martyrs' Memorial, a Gothic monu- ment in St. Giles, near the spot where Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer were burnt at the stake, in 1555-6. Oxford as a seat of learning dates from the time of Alfred the Great, or even earlier. The origi- nal town was demolished by the Danes. The tradi- tions of modern Oxford go back to the Conquest, after which the monasteries founded there obtained great fame for their learning. The town- plan is a cross, 4 broad streets converging from the cardinal points. The central point is called Gorfax, a cor- ruption of Quatre voies. The curve of High-St., with its splendid architectural monuments, makes it one of the finest streets in Europe. Public buildings to be visited : The Schools; Ashmo- lean Museum, containing the Arundel Marbles. Bod- lean Library, with its interesting portraits ; Bad- cliff e Observatory ; Taylor Institution ; University Galleries (open daily, 12-4), containing important drawings by Michael Angelo and Raphael ; Univer- sity Museum, a modern Gothic building in the Park. The laboratories are worthy of notice (open daily ? after 2 p. m.). See the beautiful Gh. of St. Mary. University College was founded, according to tradition, in 872, by Alfred the Great , but it dates historically from 1280. Imposing high-towered gate- waj^s, new library, etc. Balliol was founded by John Balliol, and Devorgilla, his wife (parents of John Balliol, King of Scotland), in 1268. The build- ing has been restored, and new halls built, Merton (1264), handsome tower and curious old architecture. Two quadrangles, and a large chapel. Exeter (1314), fine modern spire to the chapel (a copy of La ENGLAND. 127 fkbinte Chapelle, at Paris. Very large buildings. Noted timber roof in hall. Oriel (1326), where at one time studied Arnold, Keble, Newman, Pusey, and Wilberforce. Queen's (1431), with hall de- signed by Wren. New College (1380), one of the finest architecturally j with beautiful cloisters ; fine chapel and splendid choir. Lincoln (1427), John Wesley's college. All Souls' (1437), fine buildings in two quadrangles. Magnificent chapel, with rere- dos. Spacious hall. Magdalen (pronounce Maud- ten), founded in 1457, with a beautiful campanile, cloisters, gardens, Addison's walk along the Cher- ivell. Splendid chapel (famous choral service, 5 p.m. during term). Brasenose (1512), Bishop Heber's college. Corpus Christi (1516), almost unchanged for 300 years. Christ Church, founded by Car- dinal Wolsey (1525). Facade 400 ft. long. Attached to this foundation is the Cathedral of Christ Ch. (once the ch. of St. Frideswide's Priory). The great college tower contains Great Tom, which weighs 17,000 lbs. Fine library and pictures. Immense quadrangle. Through the new buildings pass into die beautiful Christ-Church meadows (50 acres on the rivers Isis and Cherwell). Trinity (1554), beau- tiful gardens and walks, with classical tower and chapel. St. John's (1555), magnificent late Gothic buildings, and fine gardens. Jesus (1571), fre- quented largely by Welshmen. Fine hall, chapel, and library. Wadham (1613), beautiful gardens. Fine chapel and hall, with timber roof. Pembroke (1624), Samuel Johnson's college. Worcester (1714), beautiful gardens and lake. Keble, built by subscription as a memorial to the Rev. John Keble, in 1870. Oxford to London by Great Western Rly., 63J H> by N". Western, 78 M. (lis., 8s. 4d., 5s. 3d.). 128 LONDON. London. Hotels. — Albemarle, Avondale, Berkeley, Picca- dilly; Carlton, Pall Mall; Brown's and St. George's Hotel, Dover-St. ; Bristol, Burlington Gardens; Claridge's, Buckland's, Brook-St. ; Windsor, Vic- toria-St, ; Buckingham Palace Hotel; St. Ermin's^ Caxton-St. ; Langham, Portland PL ; Ford's, Man- chester-St. ; De Keyser's Royal, Blackf riars Bridge ; Savoy, Cecil, Thames Embankment ; Ilorley's, Tra- falgar Sq. ; Cur son. Mayfair; Waldorf, Aldwych; Hans Crescent Hotel ; South Kensington Hotel, Alexandra, Hyde Park Corner; Bailey's, Gloucester Rd.; Norris's, Russell Rd.; Hotel Russell. Russell Sq. ; Inns of Court, First Avenue, High Holborn; Bedford Head, Tottenham Court Rd. There are several good hotels for men only, among which may be mentioned Tavistock, Covent Garden; Cavendish, Morle's. Bru?iswick, Cox's, British. Jermyn St. A peculiar institution of London and some other English towns is the temperance hotel; of this class are Philip's Cockburn Hotel, Endsleigh Gardens ; West Central, Southampton Row ; Shirley's, Queen Sq. ; Kingsley, Hart St. ; Thackeray, Gt. Russell St. Each of the principal railway stations has a large and often very good hotel connected with it ; there are the Greai Eastern, Liverpool St. ; City Terminus Hotel, Cannon St.; Holborn Viaduct; Midland Grand, St. Pancras Station ; Great Western, Pad- dington Station; Great Central, Marylebone Station; Grosvenor, Victoria Station; Charing Cross; Great Northern, King's Cross ; Huston, Euston Square. In Albermarle, New Bond, Dover, Arlington, St. James, and Clifford Sts. are many fashionable hotels. In and around Covent Garden and the Strand are many excellent houses. At the great houses, single rooms, 4s. -15s. per day; attendance, Is. 6d. ; breakfast, 2s. 6d.-3s. 6d. ; table d'hote dinner, without wine, 5s.; General Map of Loudon showing Main Street Pol : ublic UuiidJjiiiB, and Cliiei Railway Stations ENGLAND 129 luncheon a la carte. In some hotels dinner is 7s. 6d. to 10s. 6d. In hotels of second order bedrooms cost 2s. 6d.-6s. ; attendance, ls.-ls. 6d. ; breakfast, 2s. 6d. : dinner, 3s. -4s. Beware of ordering dinner a la carte in the coffee-rooms : the bill becomes enormous. If you stay more than 3-4 days, the servants who wait on you all expect gratuities. Boarding. — There are several excellent private boarding establishments patronized mainly by Americans. Furnished Lodg- ings without board are not expensive. Very good double bedrooms may be had for 15s. -21s. per week; breakfast per person, in the house, 12s. 6d.-15s. per week; single bedrooms, 8s. -14s. per week. Restaurants. — London has been poor in these in comparison with Pains and other Continental cities, but is no longer so. We may mention especially the Trocadero, Piccadilly and. Criterion, in Picca- dilly Circus; Frascati's, Oxford St. ; Verry and Bur- lington, Regent St. ; Holbom, Horseshoe, Tottenham Court Rd.; Kettner's, Soho; Dieudonne, Ryder St.; Florence, Rupert St. ; Simpson's, Romano's, Gatii's, Tivoli Grand, Colonnade, Adelphi, in the Strand; Old Blue Post Tavern, Cook St., W. ; Prince's, Pic- cadilly. In the City are the Auction Mart, Token- house Yard ; London Tavern, Pencburch St. ; Pimm's, Poultry St. ; Crosby Hall, Bishopsgate Within ; Old Cheshire Cheese, Wine Office Court; Sweeting, Cheapside. Many of the large hotels have good, but expensive, table d'hote dinners. The American Ambassador to the Court of St. James is Hon. Whitelaw Reid. The Consul-General of the U. S. in London is Mr. John L. Griffiths. A Round-Trip Omnibus Route. — From Trafal- gar Sq. take a Blackwall (blue) omnibus via Charing Cross, the Strand, Fleet St., Ludgate Hill, Cheapside, the Bank, Cornhill, Aldgate, Whitechapel, Commer- cial Rd., to Burdett Rd. Get down here, and take tramway (yellow horse-car) through Victoria Park. Walk up the Victoria Park Rd.. and at the end of the 130 LONDON road take the tram to City Rd., past Hackney and Old St. Rd. City Rd. crosses Old St. Rd. Take tram (blue) to Archway Tavern by City Rd., Liverpool Rd. and Holloway Rd. From Holloway Rd. a car may be taken via Caledonian Rd. to King's Cross, and from King's Cross take (green) omnibus to The Castle, Camden Town. Walk to the Britannia, Camden Town, and take a (claret) Camden Town omnibus to Bishop's Rd. through Park St., St. John's Wood Rd. , past Lords Cricket Ground, Grove Rd., Church St., Paddington Green. From where this omnibus stops another (yellow) may be taken via Edgware Rd., Oxford St., Holborn, the Viaduct, Cheapside, King William St. and London Bridge. From London Bridge take a (green) omnibus to the Elephant and Castle. From this point take a tram to Westminster, and then (yellow) omnibus to Trafalgar Square. The Underground Railways are convenient. The Metropolitan and Metropolitan District Rys. run in a circle from Notting Hill Gate to Aldgate and have numerous feeders to the suburbs. The City and South London Electric Ry., the Waterloo and City Ry. and the Baherloo (Baker St., Water- loo) pass in tunnels beneath the Thames, the former to Clapham Common, the two latter to Waterloo Station. The Central London Ry., called popularly the '* Twopenny Tube," runs in nearly a straight line from the Bank of England to Shepherd's Bush. Tramways in outlying districts are numerous (fares 2d. to 3d). Cab-fares. — Within a 4-M. radius, of which Char- ing Cross is centre, fares are regulated thus : for any distance under 2 M., Is.; for every additional M. or fraction, 6d. Within central part of London the or- dinary course is rarely more than Is. Taximeter cabs charge 6d. for 1st M. or 12 min., 3d. for each succeed- ing £ M. or 6 min. Outside 4-M. circle, Is. per M. When engaged by hour, 4-wheel cabs, locally called Section of London, wil The " City " of London {The City wm " iH — 7< its are indicated by the dotted lines) ENGLAND 131 growlers, mside the radius, for 1 hr. or less, 2s.; for every additional 15 min., 6d. Baggage, 2d per pk. ; hansoms, per h., 2s. 6d. ; every additional 15 min. , 8d. Theatres, etc. —The following are the principal theatres: Aldivych, Strand; A potto, Shaftesbury Av.; Adelphi. Strand; Comedy, Panton St., Haymarket; Court, Sloane Sq. ; Covent Garden (opera); Criterion, Piccadilly Circus; Daly's, Leicester Sq. ; Drury Lane, Catherine St.; Duke of York's, St. Martin's Lane; Garrick, Charing Cross Rd. ; The Hicks, Shaftes- bury Ave. ; Gaiety, Strand; Hippodrome; Haymar- ket; Lyric, Shaftesbury Ave.; His Majesty's, Hay- market; Lyceum; Neiv Royalty, Dean St., Shaftes- bury Ave.; New Theatre, St. Martin's Lane; The Playhouse; Prince of Wales', Coventry St. ; Savoy, Strand; Scala Theatre, Charlotte St. ; Shaftesbury, Shaftesbury Ave. ; St. James's, King St. ; Terry's, Strand; Imperial, Westminster; Vaudeville, Strand; Waldorf, Aklwych; Wyndham's, Charing Cross Rd. The E. End theatres, of which there are several, are worth a visit, to get an idea of how the lower classes take their amusement. Mnsic-halls abound. The best are: The Oxford, in Oxford St.; the Alhambra and the Empire, Leicester Sq. ; the Metropolitan, Edge- ware Rd. ; the Palace, Shaftesbury Ave. ; the Tivoli, Strand; and the Pavilion^ in Piccadilly Circus. The Aquarium, at Westminster, gives varied entertain- ments. Visitors in winter will find the best panto- mimes at Drury Lane and Covent Garden. In South London is the Surrey Tlieutre, in Blackfriars Road, which was at first a circus and Jater, after being re- built, the home of the legitimate Drama. Promenade concerts are held in Aug. and Sept., at Covent Gar- den; good concerts, with ballad singing, are plenty during the season at St. James's Hall and the Royal 132 LONDON-ST. PAUL'S CATHEDBAL. Albert Sail. The latter has celebrated organ of 10,000 pipes and 180 stops. Museums. — The British Museum, Great Russell St.; see p. 147. Bethnal Green Museum, Cambridge Rd. ; paintings, food products, British butterflies, etc. ; Wed. 6d., other days free. Geological, Jeremyn St.; 10 till dusk; free on introduction by a member. Natural History, South Kensington; 10 till dusk; free. South Kensington, see p. 149. Sir John Soa^ie's, 13 Lincoln's Inn Fields; antiquities; 10 till dusk, free on application. United Service, Whitehall Yard; war relics, model of Battle of Waterloo, etc.; admission (except Wed.) 6d. Indian, S. Kensington; free. Architecture, Tufton St.; free; Antiquarian, Burlington House; free on application to secretary. Guildhall, King St. ; London antiquities; free. Bo- tanical, Regent's Park; free on order from one of the Fellows. Linniean, Burlington House; free on Member's order. Royal College of Surgeo?is, Lin- coln's Inn Fields; anatomical and pathological speci- mens. The Wallace Collection of paintings, furni- ture, ceramics, armor, etc., is in Hertford House, Manchester Square. Mme. Tussaud's Waxworks are in the Marylebone Road (daily, 11-6, Is.), with 200 figures of celebrities. The City lies between Temple Bar (W) and Aid- gate (E), the Thames (S) and Smithfield and Fins- bury Circus (Ny, and has about 60,000 inhab. and the great offices, warehouses, etc. Westminster lies between the city and Chelsea, Oxford St. and the Thames, and has the chief palaces and modern streets. There are also eight boroughs, and scores of annexed villages, in the " Metropolitan District," which covers 690 square M., having 6,600 M. of streets, and 550,000 buildings. St. Paul's Cathedral was built by Wren in 1675- 1710, on a site before occupied by a temple of Diana, a Roman British eh., and King Ethelbert's ch., built ENGLAND. 133 in 610 and destroyed in 1666. Here King John yielded to the Pope (in 1213) ; Wyckliff e was cited for heresy (1337) ; and Tyndale's New Testament was burned (1537). St. Paul's is a Latin Cross, with nave 500 X 118 ft. ; transepts, 250 ft. long; inner dome, 225 ft. high ; and height to top of cross, 404 ft. St. Peter's and Milan and Seville Cathedrals are larger. It is open from 10 a. m. to dark. Services at 8 and 10 A. M., and 4 and 8 p. m. Fee at Crypt, 6d.; Whisper- ing and Stone Galleries, 6d.; Library, 6d. ; Ball, Is. 6d. The W. front is flanked by high campaniles. The interior is vast, but bare. See organ and wood carvings in the choir, and monuments of Howard, the philanthropist ; Donne, the poet-dean ; Dean Milman ; Bishop Heber ; Dr. Johnson ; Hallam, the historian ■ Lord Nelson ; Gen. Pakenham ; Sir John Moore ; Lord Rodney, etc. In the crypt are the porphyry and marble sarcophagi of Wellington, Nei son, and Collingwood ; Wellington's hearse ; and the tombs of the artists Reynolds, West, Lawrence, Tur« ner, Fuseli, and Barry. From the S. aisle, ascend to Library (10,000 vols.), Whispering Gallery, Stone Gallery, and l?a7Z. The St. Paul's Cross, which for- merly stood in the churchyard and was removed in 1643, has been re-erected in more imposing style. It is a column, 52ft. high, surmounted with a statue, 9ft. high, of St. Paul. Paternoster Row, famous for books, is N. of the Cathedral ; and S. are the Deanery, Choristers' School, and Herald's College. Down the Row is Warwick Lane, once the haunt of Lord Warwick, the king-maker. The General Post-Office and Telegraph Office are immense buildings near by, nearly hiding St. Vedast's Ch., one of Wren's masterpieces. The wealthy Christ's Hospital, founded by Edward VI. , on the site of a Grey friars' convent, has 1,200 blue- robed pupils; Richardson, Coleridge, Lamb, and Leigh Hunt were educated here. Newgate, a famous prison. 134 NEWGATE. — GUILDHALL. where Jack Sheppard, Titus Oates, Wm. Penn, and Daniel Defoe were confined, is in the Old Bailey, reached from Ludgate Hill. 1ST. of Christ's is St. Bartholomew's Hospital, a great quadrangle founded as a priory in 1102, and converted into a hospital by Henry V11I. In the Great Hall are paintings by Hogarth, Lawrence, Reynolds, etc. The grand Norman Ch. dates from 1102, and has rare monuments. The vast adjacent Smith- field Market (3 1-2 acres under roof) occupies the ground once used for the revels, miracle-plays, and tournaments of Bartholomew Fair, and later for the martyrdoms under Bloody Mary andElizabeth. Here, also, Wat Tyler and Sir Wm. Wallace were put to death. Newgate-St, leads to the noble Hol- born Viaduct, spanning a deep valley, at one end of which is St. Sepulchres Ch. (John Rogers was its rector), containing the tomb of Captain John Smith. Near Smithrield is the picturesque Char- terhouse, a rich school and asylum on the site of a Carthusian convent (1371). Among the pupils here were Steele, Addison, Blackstone, Wesley, Grote, Lovelace, Barrow, Eastlake, John Leech, Thirlwall, Thackeray, and Havel ock. See the Elizabethan Great Chamber ; cloisters, chapel, and pictures in the Masters Lodge-; also, in adjacent Bunhill Fields, tombs of Bunyan, Defoe, and Dr. Watts ; and, in St. John's Lane, Clerkenwell, the rare old St. John's Gate, built in 1504. The Guildhall, originally built 1411-31, but almost entirely de- stroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, has the muni- cipal offices, a Gothic Library, a museum (Ro- man antiques, etc.), a beautiful crypt, ar$ fine portraits. The Great Ball, 153 x 50 fet,., has a noble timber roof, stained windows, and the ENGLAND. 135 wooden giants, Gog and Magog. Gresham Col- lege (1579) and Goldsmiths' Hall are close by. Cheapside is a busy street, with handsome shops, from which run Bread- St. , where Milton was born, and Milk-St., where Sir Thomas More was born and on which stood the Mermaid Inn, beloved by Shakes- peare, Ben Jonson, Beaumont and Fletcher, Donne, etc. Bow Oh., built by Wren, rises over a Norman crypt, and is crowned by a great dragon, on a tower 235 ft. high. Whoever is born within sound of its bells is a " cockney." Mercers' Hall, with its rich pil- lared court, is on the site of Thomas a Becket's birthplace (1119). The Grocers' and Armorers' (fine hall and rich armor) Halls are farther on. The Man- sion House (1739-1753), and famous for the Egyp- tian Hall, is the palace of the Lord Mayor. The costly new Queen Victoria-St. leads thence, by Apothecaries' Hall and The Times Office, to Black- friars Bridge (^M.). Opposite the Mansion House tsthe low, massive, and broad-based Bank of Eng- land, which keeps $75-100,000,000 in coin in its vaults. The splendid Royal Exchange, with its rich carvings, Corinthian colonnades, and campanile, and the Stock Exchange, are near by. Statues of Wellington and Peabody, near Exchange ; also Crosby Hall, built in 1466; and St. Helen's Ch., of the 12th century. In Cornhill, Gray, the poet, was born. St. Michael's Ch. was built by Wren, and St. Catherine Cree by Inigo Jones. Lombard-St. is the Wall-St. of London ; Mincing Lane, the headquar- ters of colonial trade ; Mark Lane, the grain mar- ket. In St. Olane's Ch. is the tomb of Pepys ; and in Trinity Ch. (formerly a Minorite nunnery) is the Duke of Suffolk's head. St. Swithin's Ch. has the famous London stone, a Roman milliarium, built into its wall. The venerable St. Saviour's Ch. is over London Bridge, and has a beautiful Lady Chapsi 136 THE TOWER, and Choir, and tombs of Massinger, Fletcher, Gow- er, and Shakespeare's brother. Beyond is the an- cient Guy's Hospital, in whose eh. Astley Cooper is buried. King- William -St. runs from the Bank, by St. Mary Woolnotli's Ch. and the site of Fal- staff's Boards Head Tavern, to London Bridge, 928 ft. long, built in 1825-31, at a cost of $10,- 000,000, on 5 granite arches. 20,000 carriages and 100,000 pedestrians cross it daily. The Komans and the Saxons had bridges here. The Monu- ment, 202 ft. high, built -by Wren in 1671-77 to commemorate the Great Fire of 1666 (which de- stroyed $357,000,000 of property) is close by. Fine "view from its top (fee, 3d.). Thames-St. was Chau- cer's home, 1379-85. St. Magnus the Martyr, one of "Wren's Chs., has Miles' Coverdale's tomb. Farther E. is Billingsgate, the famous fish-market, The Custom House is 490 ft. long, on a quay be- side the Thames. The Tower is " historically the most interest* ing spot in England " (open daily, 10-4, 6d.; Mon. and Sat., free). A stone bridge leads to the Outer Bail ; and the Bell Tower and Traitors' Gate are passed on the way to the Inner Bail, in which rises the famous White Tower, built by William the Conqueror, on the site of a Roman fort. It is 96 X 116 ft. in area, and 95 ft. high, with turreted walls 12 ft. thick. Here Richard II. abdicated his throne (1399), and James I. of Scotland was im- mured. The beautiful Norman Chapel of St. John is here ; also the Council Chamber and Banqueting Hall. Among the prisoners of the Tower have been King John of France, King David Bruce of Scot- land, the Dukes of Orleans and Marlborough, Wil- liam Wallace, Archbishop Cranmer, Lord Straf- ford, and William Lord Russell. Outside is a col- ENGLAND. 137 Section of ancient cannon ; and the Horse Armoury, full of trophies, ancient armor of all nations, and 22 eques- trian figures in full English, Burgundian, and German armor, of dates from 1272 to 1688, and once worn by princes and nobles. Upstairs are trophies from Quebec, Malta, India, New Zealand, etc. Queen Elizabeth's Armoury contains weapons of the Elizabethan age, the .block on which Lord Lovat was decapitated, and the axe which struck oif the Earl of Essex's head. Ad- jacent is the 10 X 8 cell in which Sir Walter Baleigh was confined, 1G03-16. The Bloody Tower was that ia which the sons of Edward IV. were murdered ; Lord Dudley was imprisoned in the Beauchamp Tower ; Prin- cess Elizabeth, in the Bell Tower; Lady Jane Grey, in the Brick Tower. The Duke of Clarence was put to death in the Bowyer Tower; and Henry VI. in Wakefield Tower, In the Jewel House are the Crown Jewels, valued at $15,000,000: St. Edward's crown; Victoria's crown, with 2,783 diamonds, and a wonderful sapphire and ruby (it cost 8560,000); several other crowns; the royal sceptre, and other sceptres and orbs ; the Ivoh-i- Noor diamond ; etc. In the cemetery attached to the ancient chapel of St. Peter ad Vinculo, are the remains of Anne Boleyn, Sir Thomas More, two Earls of Essex, Lord Somerset, Lady Jane Grey, the Dukes of North- umberland and Monmouth, and other noble victims. On Tower Hill stand Trinity House, whose brethren care for the British lighthouses and buoys, and the Royal Mint. William Perm was born on Tower Hill ; and the poet Otway died there. St. Katherines and London Docks are E. of the Tower, with vast crowded warehouses. London Docks cover 120 acres, and cost $20,000,000- Farther down are other vast docks, the largest in the world. N-. W. of the Tower are Beihnal Green Museum, and Victoria Bark. In the Swedish Ck at Shadwell, Swedenborg is buried. 138 FLEET-STREET. — THE TEMPLE. Blackfriars Bridge, 1,272 ft. long, on gi-anite piers, is named from a monastery formerly hard by, founded in 1276, and where Cardinal Wolsey divorced Katherine of Aragon from Henry VIII. Shakespeare and Bei? Jonson formerly lived at Blackfriars. The Victoria Embankment runs along the N. bank of the Thames, from Blackfriars to Westminster Bridge, 1-| M., occu- pied by a road and walks 100 ft. wide. This work was done, 1864-70, at a cost of $10,000,000. It is adorned with trees and gardens, and statues of Mill, Outram, and Brunei. Here also stands Cleopatra's Needle, the great Egyptian obelisk. See also the ancient Water- gate of York House, built by Inigo Jones. On the site of Durham House is the Adelphi Terrace, where King Kamehameha II. and David Garrick died. Fleet-St. runs from near St. Paul's to the Strand, passing Congregational Memorial Hall, on the site of Fleet Prison,, made famous by Dickens ; the office of Punch; St. Bride's Ch., built by Wren, near site of Bridewell Prison, with tomb of Richardson the nov- elist; Bolt Court, where Dr. Johnson lived (1776— 84) and died, and Cobbett labored; Cheshire Cheese Inn, frequented by Johnson, Boswell, and Goldsmith ; Whitefriars, on the site of an ancient Carmelite monas- tery; Alsatia (down Bouverie-St.), the home of rogues, described in Scott's Fortunes of Nigel ; the site of Izaak Walton's hosiery-shop, 1624-43 ; the Gothic Ck. of St. Duns fun in the West; Mitre Court, and its famous old inn; and the New Record Office (open 10-4), a stately Tudor building, containing the Domesday Book. The Temple was founded by the Knights Templar in 1184, and reverted to the Crown on their dissolution, in 1313. In 1346 it was leased to the law schools, which have ever since occupied it. The buildings extend -from Fleet-St. fo the famous Temple Gardens, where, the ENGLAND. 138 (Var of the Hoses broke out. The Middle Temple has a splendid Elizabethan Gothic hall (built 1572), with dark oaken ceiling and princely portraits. Dr. John- son, Chaucer, Blackstone, Lamb, and Oliver Goldsmith lived in the Middle Temple ; and the latter is buried in the yard of the very beautiful Temple Ch. (open 10-12, 1-4 daily), built in 1185-1240, which has quaint old Templars' monuments, rich stained windows, and polished pillars of Purbeck marble. Nearly opposite, across Fleet-St., are the vast and superb new Law Courts, in Gothic architecture, which have cost over $5,000,000. Farther N. is the famous Lincoln's Inn, the home of lawyers, with a great library, a quaint chapel built by Inigo Jones, and a handsome Tudor dining-hall. Pitt, More, and Brougham long lived here.. In Lincoln's Inn Fields is the Royal College of Sur- geons, with a vast museum ; near by is the Sonne Museum, with rare MSS. and early books, antique gems, medieval and Renaissance curiosities, and paintings by Hogarth, Turner, Eastlake, Reynolds. Gray's Inn, on the 1ST. side of Hoi born, has been a law school since 1371. Bacon was a member here. Reyond the monument on the site of Temple Bar (built in 1670 ; taken down 1878), Fleet- St. is con- tinued as the Strand, connecting the city and the W. End. St. Clement Danes Ch. stands over the tombs of Harold Harefoot and other Danish war- riors. Dr. Johnson used to worship here ; Joe Miller and the poet Otway are buried in the ch.* yard. Hard by is Clements Inn, sacred to law- yers, and often mentioned by Shakespeare. Essex, Arundel, Norfolk, and Surrey-Sts., named from the ] places of the great nobles formerly there- about-?, diverge to the Embankment. In the latter lived Congreve and Sale ; Peter the Great lived in 140 WATERLOO BRIDGE-COVENT GARDEN Buckingham-St. Thomas a Becket was priest of the Ch. of St. Mary le Strand. Voltaire lived in Maiden Lane. Somerset House is a vast Government build- ing, on the site of the Lord Protector's Palace, with a splendid front towards the Thames. Here may be seen (10-3 daily) the wills of Holbein, Shakespeare, Van Dyck, Newton, Dr. Johnson, and Napoleon I. Waterloo Bridge was built at a cost of $5,000,000. Exeter Hall stands in this region of theatres, and is a famous centre of religious movements. The Chapel Royal, Savoy, a Gothic ch., with ancient tombs, is in Savoy-St. It was built in 1505, on the site of the Savoy Palace, given by Henry III. to Peter of Savoy ; owned by John of Gaunt ; destroyed by Wat Tyler's mob ; and replaced by Henry VII. with a hospital. In the Palace, Chaucer wrote several poems ; and there King John of France died. To the N. is Covent Garden, the chief fruit, flower, and vegetable market of London (visit before 7 a.m., Tues., Thurs., or Sat.), on site of convent gardens granted to the Dukes of Bedford in 1551, and still held by them. Here lived Sir Keiielm Digby, Bishop Berkeley, Lord Crewe, Sir Godfrey Kneller, etc. ; and the poet Marvell and the painter Turner dwelt in Maiden Lane. Inigo Jones built St. Paul's Ch., in whose yard Samuel Butler (" Hudibras "), Sir Peter Lely, " Peter Pindar," the dramatist Wycherley, and the famous wood-carver Grin- ling Gibbons, fire buried. The Royal Italian Opera-Rouse is in Covent Garden ; and near it is the Floral Hall. At Charing Cross is a modern copy of a cross erected near its site by Edward L, in 1201. There is an ancient equestrian statue of Charles I. at Charing Cross. "The full' tide of existence is at Charing Cross," said Dr. Johnson. Harry Vane. Barrow, and Johnson lived hereabouts. ENGLAND. 141 The splendid Trafalgar Square contains a col- umn 177 ft. high, with a colossal statue of Nelson, and colossal lions designed by Landseer ; also statues of Gordon, Havelock, George IV, and Sir Charles Napier. On one side stood Northmnber- land House, the palace of the Percies, bought by the Board of Works for $2,500,000, and demolished in 1874. On part of its site stands the Grand Ho- tel. The Ch. of St. Martin in the Fields has a fine Grecian front ; and in its yard lie Roubillac the sculp- tor, Farquhar the dramatist, and Nell Gwyime. The magnificent National Gallery (free, open Mom, Tues., Wed., and Sat., 10 a.m., till dark: Thurs. and Fri., 6d.; Sun., in summer) N. of Square, has a classic facade, 460 ft. long. It contains over 1,000 pictures, and is visited by nearly 1,000,000 persons yearly. Each picture has its title and artist inscribed upon it. Fine busts and statues in the Hall. Many of the most famous pictures of the world, familiar by countless engravings, are in this great collection. National Portrait Gal. adjoins the Nat. Gal., open same days. Whitehall leads S. to Whitehall Palace, where Henry VIII. met Anne Boleyn, and where he died ; where Holbein dwelt ; whence Elizabeth was removed to prison, and Charles I. to execution ; where Milton and Cromwell dwelt, and the latter died ; where Charles II. held court. The site was occupied by the palace of Hubert de Burgh (13th century), a Dominican con- vent, and the palace of Cardinal Wolsey. The great Palladian Banqueting Hall only remains, designed by Inigo Jones, painted by Puibens, and now used as a royal chapel (service on Sun. at 11 and 3). In a house near by, Sir Robert Peel died. In this vicinity is Scotland Yard, famous in police annals; once the property of the Scottish kings, and later the home of Wren, Milton, Inigo Jones, Also Montague House, 142 THE HOUSES OF PAELIAMENT. the palace of the Duke of Buccleuch. In Whitehall Yard is the United Service Museum, crowded with tro- phies of the wars of Britain on all seas and shores, relics of Cromwell, Nelson, Wolfe, Drake, Franklin, Wellington, Napoleon, etc. The Horse-Guarda, headquarters of the army, is opposite Whitehall. See mounted Life-Guards sentries, 10-4 daily. The Treas- ury comes next S. The new Public Offices, built in 1S68-73 by Sir G. G. Scott (cost, $2,500,000), splendid pile of Italian buildings, contain the Home, Foreign, Colonial, and India Offices. The Houses of Parliament form an immense Tudor Gothic pile, of Yorkshire magnesian limestone (already crumbling), covering 8 acres, with 11 courts and 1,100 rooms, erected 1840-59. Strangers admitted between 10 and 3 on a member's order. Facade along Thames (940 ft. long) is adorned with statues and! shields of all the sovereigns of England. The splendid Victoria Tower is 340 ft. high and 75 ft. square ; the Middle Tower is 300 ft. high ; and the Clock Tower, 318 ft. high, has a huge clock (dials 23 ft. across), and Big Ben, a bell weighing 13 tons. The oldest part is Westminster Hall, built by William Rufus in 1097, and covered with the present wonderful roof of Irish oak by Richard II. a splendid hall, 270 ft. long and 92 ft. high, formerly the seat of England's most august tri- bunals. Here Wallace, Stratford, Guy Fawkes, More, Wyatt, Lords Essex, Cobham, and Arundel, the Dukes of Somerset, Buckingham, and Norfolk, the Scottish nobles who favored the Stuarts, and King Charles I. were condemned to death. Here Warren Hastings was tried, and also the Seven Bishops. Here Edward III. received the captive kings, David of Scotland and John of France. Here Cromwell was installed Lord Protector. Here the coronation-banquets have been ENGLAND. 143 held for 800 years. A stairway descends to the crypt or Ch. of St. Maty Undercroft, built by King Stephen, and lately made resplendent as a chapel. St. Stephens Cloisters, E. of the hall, were built by Henry VIII. Ascending from the hall, enter St. Stephen's Hall, with statues of 12 English statesmen and 12 ancient mon- archs ; and the Central Hall, a lofty octagon, with statues. The corridors have large frescos of scenes from English history. The House of Commons, 75 X 45 ft., is panelled with oak, and has 12 stained win- dows. The House of Lords, 97 X 45 ft., is a superb Gothic room, with 12 stained windows, statues of the Magna-Charta barons, 6 splendid historical frescos, the Lord Chancellor's woolsack and the thrones of the Queen and the Prince of Wales. See the Prince's Chamber, Upper Waiting-Hall, Peers' Robing-Room, superb Victoria Gallery, and Queen's Robing-Room (richly frescoed). In Old Palace Yard is a statue of Richard Coeur de Lion. Near by Chaucer and Ben Jonson died. The old Parliament House, ereeieu. on the site of the palace of the Anglo-Saxon and Plantagenet kings, and burned in 1634, contained the Star Chamber, and was the birthplace of Edward I., and the scene of the death of Edward the Confessor. Here resounded the eloquence of Pitt, Pox, Chatham, Burke, Canning, and Grattan. Westminster Bridge, built 1856-62, at a cost of 11,250,000, commands a fine view of Parliament House. St. Margaret's Ch. replaced a ch. built in 1064 by Edward the Confessor, and has a magnificent old E. window (The Crucifixion) and many quaint tombs, in- cluding those of poet-laureate Skelton, Milton's wife, Cromwell's mother, Wm. Caxton, Lady Dudley, Har- ringtoD (author of Oceana), Sir Wm. Waller, and Sir 144 WESTMINSTER ABBEY Walter Raleigh (who is buried under the altar). Many fine memorials stand in this vicinity ; also Milton's house, lately occupied by Hazhtt, and fre- quented by Lamb and Haydon; Jeremy Bentham's house ; the quaint old Gray Coat School ; and the pretty houses of Queen Anne's (rate. Westminster Abbey was founded (on the site of a temple to Apollo) by the Anglo-Saxon King Sebert in 616, for Benedictines: destroyed by Danes; and rebuilt by Edgar (985), Edward the Confessor (1049), Henry III., and Edward I. Henry VIII. drove out the monks, Queen Mary restored them, and Elizabeth scattered them for ever. All the sovereigns of England since Harold have been crowned here. It is 416 feet in length and 102 feet high, with W. towers 225 feet high. It is a splen- did Early-English building, immense, harmonious, solemn, richly colored. (Enter near St. Margaret's; open, except Sunday, 9 a.m. till dark. Services at 8, 10 and 3 daily. Entrance to chapels, 6d. ; Monday and Tuesday free.) It is world-renowned as England's Temple of Fame, crowded with monu- ments of kings, heroes and scholars. In the JSf. Transept are the monuments of Admirals Warren, Vernon, Wager, Lord Chatham, Canning, Castle- reagh, Peel, Mansfield, two Dukes of Newcastle, Warren Hastings, Cobden, Buller, and many famous lords. In the abbey are monuments to Wilberforce, Stamford Raffles, Fowell Buxton, Isaac Newton, Charles Lyell, Pox, Holland, Pitt, Wordsworth, Keble, Congreve, Buckland, Outram, Major Andre, Dr. Watts, John Wesley, General Paoli, Kneiler, Livingstone, Stephenson, etc. The Poets' Corner contains inscriptions to Goldsmith, Gay, Handel, Thomson, Southey, Shakespeare, Campbell, Sher- idan, Camden, Dickens, Grote, Macaulay, Thirl- wall, Addison, Thackeray, Casaubon, Barrow, ENGLAND. 145 Garrick, Prior, Gray, Milton, Spenser, Butler, J orison. Drayton, Chaucer, Cowley, Dryden, South, Browning and Tennyson, bee chapels of St. Benedict, St. Edmond and St. Nicholas. The Chapel of Henry VII., built 1502-20, has nave, aisles, and 5 chapels, with 1,000 statues, exquisite carved-oak choir-stalls on each side (with the swords and banners of the Knights of the Bath), and a magnificent stone roof of fan work tracery. See tombs of Henry VII., James I., Mary Queen of Scots, Charles II., William and Mary, George of Denmark, Edward VI., Queen Anne, George II., the Duke of Montpensier, Dean Stanley, Queen Eliza- beth, Edward V., etc. The Chapel of St. Edward the Confessor has tombs of Henry V., Katherine of Valois, Henry III., Queen Eleanor, Richard II., Philippa of Hainault, Edward the Confessor, and Edward I. ; also, the Scottish and English Coronation Chairs, and the sword and shield of Edward III. The Chapels of St. John, St. Erasmus, and the Abbot Is lip contain ancient tombs, near which are those of Aymer de Valence and Gen. Wolfe. The Chapels of Sts. John, Andrew, and Michael have monuments to Humphry Davy, Dr. Young, Mrs. Siddons, etc. The Chapter-House, built 1250, and occupied by the House of Commons, 1282- 1547, adjoins the Poets' Corner, and is near the Chapel of the Pyx, St. Blaise's Chapel, and the stairs to the Triforium. Near by are the beautiful Cloisters. The world-renowned Jerusalem Chamber was built 1376-86. Here Henry IV. died ; and here the recent revision of the Bible was carried out. Westminster School, founded by Queen Elizabeth (1560), is entered near the column to the W. Wren, Gibbon, Cowle} r , Cowper, Churchill, Jonson, Dryden, Prior, Locke, Southey, Hakluyt, and Warren Hastings were educated here. 146 ENGKLAND. St. Thomas's Hospital is a line of buildings | M. long (cost $2,500,000), opposite Parliament House. Beyond, aud also on the Thames, is Lam- beth Palace, for 700 years the London house of the Archbishops of Canterbury, very beautiful and interesting. Enter by Cardinal Moreton's lofty em- battled gateway. The Hail has a fine timber-roof, and library of 30,000 vols. Hon , Wed., Thurs., Fri., 10-4). The Guard Chamber has portraits of many archbishops. The Chapel, in which these prelates are consecrated, dates from 1244-70. In the Lol- lards' 1 Tower Lollards were imprisoned and tor- tured. In the inner court is the new Tudor palace of the archbishops. The gardens of Lambeth are beautiful. £ M. E. is Bethlehem Hospital for the In- sane {Bedlam) ; and a little beyond are St. George's Cathedral (Roman) and Spur g eon's Tabernacle. Pall Mall is a splendid st., nearly | M. long, run- ning W. from Trafalgar-Square, and lined with club houses, which are also found in St. James- St. Among these are the University, United Service, Athenaeum, Travellers', Reform, Carlton, Army and Navy, Guards, and Marlborough. Pall Mall cross- es Waterloo Place, in which are the Crimean, Frank- lin, Burgoyne, and Colin-Campbell monuments, and the York column (124 ft. high; 6d. for ascent). In Pall Mall is Marlborough House, built by Wren, former residence of the Prince of Wales; near by St. James' s-Sq., with palaces and club-houses. St. James's Palace is a brick building, designed by Holbein and built by Henry VIII. , the home of En- gland's kings from 1691 to 1809. Victoria was married in its chapel, and levees were held in its state-chambers. Guard-mounting aud fine military music daily, at 11.45. Clarence House was the home of the Duke of Edinburgh. Stafford House ST. JAMES'S PARK 147 (Duke of Sutherland) contains hundreds of paint- ings. Bridgewater House (Lord Ellesmere) has art-collections, including several Kaphaels. St. James's Park, S. of the Palace, was created by Henry VIII. and Charles II. , and has a lake in its .centre, the Birdcage Walk and Wellington Bar- racks on the S. , the Mall on the N. , and on the W., near the Turkish cannon and Marshal Soult's mortar, the Foot Guards parade at 10 a. m. daily. At the W. end is Buckingham Palace, bought in 1761 by George III. of the Duke of Buck- ingham, now the town-residence of the King. It .s a quadrangle, with Throne Koom, Grand Saloon, and other halls, and a Picture Gallery, containing hundreds of old paintings. In the rear are large gardens. Hegent-St., containing the finest shops in Lon- don, and many hotels and clubs, is 1 M. long, and leads from Pall Mall to Oxford-St. Piccadilly, a Paris-like street, runs from Hay- market to Hyde Park (1 M.), by Geological Museum (10-5, on member's introduction); St. James's CIi., built by Wren; the houses of the Eoyal, Geo- logical, Antiquarian, Astronomical, and Chemical Societies; the Royal Academy of Arts (many rare paintings); London University, with statues; Dev- onshire House, famous in art; and other palaces of the nobility. Green Park bounds one side of Piccadilly. In The Albany d w 4t Byron, Bulwer, Monk Lewis, and Macaulay. Oxford-St. H M. from HoTborn to Hyde Park, passes Bloomsbury, Kussell, Cavendish, Hanover and Bedford Sqs. , with their displays of statuary, and crosses Kegent-St. and New Bond-St. , famous for fine shops. The British Museum (open daily, free, from 10 a.m. till dusk) is near nev, r Oxford- 148 ENGLAND. St. , and contains one of the grandest collections iu the world. Here are the Elgin Marbles, from the Athenian Parthenon; hundreds of Greek and Koman sculptures, and statuary; reliefs from Baby- lon, Nineveh, and Mmroud; 6 rooms full of Egyp- tian antiquities, MSS., jewels, statues, etc. ; hun- dreds of Greek, Etruscan, and Koman bronzes', antiquities of the flint, Celtic, Roman, Saxon, and mediaeval ages in England. The Reading Room (open only to students, apply in writing to librarian) is a circular hail in the centre of the quadrangle, with a dome of glass and iron ; the Library contains 1 ,000,- 000 books. A little way N. E. is the Foundling Hospital, with pictures by Reynolds, Hogarth, etc. Services in chapel, at 11 and 3 on Sundays. Regent's Park (472 acres), a bit of open coun- try in a densely populated region, is \\ M. 1ST. W. of Trafalgar Sq., and contains the famous Zoologi- cal Gardens, with numbers of birds and beasts, (open daily, 9 a. m. till dark, Is.; Mon., 6d. Best time to visit, 3-4). Here are the Botanical Gar- dens. Primrose Hill lies N. ; and Lord's Cricket Ground is W. 2-3 M. W. is Kensal-Green Cemetery, where are buried Thackeray, Leigh Hunt, Sidney Smith, Allan Cunningham, Buckle, Eastlake, Mul- ready, Mathews the actor, Leech the cartoonist, Gibson the sculptor, Cardinal Wiseman, etc. Hyde Park (390 acres) was laid out by Henry VIII. At the K E. gate is the Marble Arch; at the S.E., Hyde Park Corner, is another portal, opposite which stands a tall arch, which formerly bore a statue of Wellington. Rotten Row runs thence to Kensington Gate (1| M.), and is a riding-course. The Drive, alongside, is filled with equipages. The Serpentine is an artificial pond, with pleasure- boats. Remarkable lawns and trees are seen on all ENGLAND. 14& sides. Kensington Gardens adjoin Hyde Park on the W., and lead to Kensington Palace, a grim brick structure, built by William III., and the birth-place of Queen Victoria. William and Mary, Queen Anne and her consort, and George II. died here. Farther W. is Holland House, a Tudor palace built in 1607, and frequented by Cromwell and Fairfax, Wm. Penn, Addison, William and Mary, Moore, Rogers, and Macaulay. S. of the Gardens stands the Albert Memo- rial, a superb Gothic monument, 175 ft. high, covered with statues, and composed of a Gothic canopy, under which is a colossal statue of Albert. Across the road is the vast oval amphitheatre of the Royal Albert Hall, overarched with glass, holding 8,000 people, and provided with an organ of 8,000 pipes. The Natural History Museum faces Cromwell - Road; contains geological, mineralogical, botanical, and zoo- logical collections — formerly British Museum (open, 10-5, Sun. 2-5). The South Kensington Museum (free, Mon., Tues., Sat., 10-10 ; 6d.,Wed., Thurs., Fri., 10 a.m. till dark; £>un., 2-5; restaurant and lavatories in building) is one of the richest in the world (| hr. from Charing Cross by rly.). It was founded in 1857, and has re- ceived many generous bequests, besides $5,000,000 from Government. The first court is crowded with ar- chitectural rarities, original or in casts. The S. Court is surrounded with mosaic portraits of the 33 most famous artists, and Sir F. Leighton's famous frescos, and contains many exquisite objects of art. The N. Court is devoted to Italian- Renaissance sculptures, al- tars, tabernacles, etc., and costly tapestries, terra-cotta work, fans, laces, and ancient musical instruments. The Cloisters contain ancient and Oriental furniture, Persian tiles, carpets, and metal- work. The National Gallery of British Art is exceedingly interest' 150 CHELSEA. — ON THE THAMES. iag, and has the famous Cartoons of Raphael, man? hundreds of choice paintings by Turner, Reynolds, Landseer, Leslie, Wilkie, etc. ; water-colors in great variety ; and the Porster collection of autographs and MSS. The Prince Consort Gallery contains mediaeval works of art in gold, brass, and steel, silver-gilt, enamel, and ivory. The Ke ramie Gallery has Palissy, Majolica, Spanish, Wedgwood, Dresden, Sevres, and other wares, in great variety. The Patent-Office Museum adjoins this building. Between Hyde Park and the Thames are Belgravia and Chelsea, the former containing many fine streets, inhabited by rich families, and the latter being noted mainly for its Hospital for old soldiers, built by Wren. Down the Thames. — Many dingy little steamers ply on the Thames, touching every 10 min. at West- minster, Charing Gross, Blackfriars, St. Paul's, etc. (fares, l-2d.). Their focal point is London Bridge, whence larger boats depart for Greenwich (3-4d.), Woolwich, and the sea. You pass the Tower, St. Catherine's Docks, London Docks, the Isle of Dogs, the Surrey, Commercial, and W. India Docks. Below Greenwich the river is dull. The journey Up the Thames gives fine view of St. Paul's on the r. ; and farther up, opposite Blackfriars, the Times newspaper offices. Thence to Waterloo Bridge, you have the Embankment on the r. Above this is the Adelphi Terrace ; the Obelisk, on the r.; and passing the bridges to Charing-Cross stat. and Whitehall Stairs, you come to Westminster Bridge. On the 1. are St. Thomas's Hospital and Lambeth Palace ; on the r., the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. Get Dickens's Dictionary of the Thames (Is.) ENGLAND. 151 Excursions in Southern England. Windsor {Castle Inn; White Hart), 22 M. from London, may be reached by G. W. or S. W. Railway (return fares, 5s. 6d., 4s. 3d.). The superb state apartments are open Mon., Tues., Thurs., Fri., Sat., on presentation of tickets (adults Is., children 6d.); when the King is at home, they are not shown. (Buy Companion through the State Apartments, Id.) The cas- tle stands on the apex of a hill, and may be seen from afar. Here William the Conqueror built a residence. Edward III. was born in Windsor ; and Geoffrey Chaucer, the poet, once lived here. The state apartments are at the N. side. Grand entrance of the castle, George IV? s Gateway, in the S. front, opposite the Long Walk, a fine vista of elms, 3 M. long. Visitors' en- trance, Henry VIII.'s gateway. From the Round Tower (open 11-4) 12 counties may be seen. See Waterloo Hall, fine Van Dycks and Rubenses ; Chapel Royal St. George's (open 12-4, free), one of the finest Gothic edifices in Europe (built in 1474), with choir hung round with the banners, helmets, and insignia of the Knights of the Garter ; Albert Chapel, formerly Wolsey's Chapel, built by Henry VII. and reopened in 1875, superb mosaics, reredos, and cenotaph (open Wed., Thurs., Fri., and Sat.). Fine view from the Castle Terrace. Pleasant drive (7 M.) to Virginia Water {Wheatsheaf Hotel). There are 1,800 acres in the Great Park. Eton College is £ M. from Windsor. The stone chapel, 175 ft. long, is very handsome. Bronze statue of Henry VI. See the line library and MSS. There are 1,000 students here. The college was founded in 1440. Stoke Pogis, tb<* scene of Gray's Elegy, and the burial-place of the 152 HAMPTON COURT. — RICHMOND. poet, is near Windsor. Fine monument to Gray m Stoke Park. Hampton Court (Kings Arms; Mitre; Grey- hound), rly. in f lir. (13 M.), or Thames (24 M.), has an old palace covering 8 acres. It was founded by Cardinal Wolsey, then at the height of his ambition, and presented to Henry VIII., who coveted it. Here also was a favorite residence of both Charles I. and Crom- well. It is now the home of pensioners of the Crown. (State-apartments open daily, except Eri., 10-6, March — Oct.; on Sun., 2-6.) See the Presence Chamber. Galleries of nearly 1,000 paintings, and the great Gothic Hall, hung with tapestries, and covered with a timber roof. Purchase the Stranger's Guide (6d.), which gives full accounts. Kew Royal Botanical Gardens (South Western Rly. ; fares, Is. 9d., Is. Id., Is. 2d. ; time, \ hr.) contain the plants and flowers of all countries, (Buy hand-book, 6d.) 3 M. from Kew is Richmond {Star and Garter, famous for cuisine, wines, and high bills), where Edward I. founded a palace, and Queen Elizabeth died. Eine view from Richmond Bill. The Park (2,255 acres) belongs to the Crown and is open to the public. James Thomson and Edmund Kean are buried in the eh. The King, when Prince of Wales, sometimes lived at the Wliite Lodge. Park stocked with deer. The footpaths on either shore afford exquisite views. At Twickenham see Orleans House, the former residence of Louis Phi- lippe ; ch. in which Pope is buried ; and Strawberry Rill, Horace Walpole's villa. The Crystal Palace, on high ground at Sydenham, was erected 1853-4, at a cost of $7,500,000. # Do not fail to see it. Return fares, including admission (every day except Sat., when admission is 2s. 6d.). 3s., 2s. 3d., ENGLAND. 153 Is. Pd. You can go from London Bridge, Victoria, Kensington, Holborn, or Ludgate Hill stats. The Aquanuin, the Aviary, the wonderful Architectural Courts, the Picture Gallery, are worth inspection. Gardens Vbry iine; fireworks on summer evenings. Good restaurants attached. (Guide-books, Id., 3d., Is.). The central hall is 1,608 ft. long, crossed by transepts. The Alexandra Pa!aw and F?.r& are 6 M. N. of London; £ hr. from Kings Cross. Admission, Is. It is rectangular, with corner towers, covei» 7| acres ; and the grounds cover 480 acres. Cee mu?ic hall (seating 12,000), with large organ. Ely. from Alexandra to Highgate (2?L), in whose picturesque cemetery lie Faraday, S. T. Coleridge, Lord Lindhurst, and George Eliot. It is an easy walk to Hampstead Heath, 240 acres of breezy highland park, once famous for its highwaymen, and aosY visited for its beautiful views of London. In Hamp- stead Ch., Sir James Mackintosh, Joanna Baillie anc Constable, the painter, are buried. Dulwich, -J- hr. by rly. from Victoria station (open daily, 10-4), has paintings purchased for King Stanv islaus of Poland, but given to God's Gift College Works of Murillo, Teniers, Rembrandt, Cuyp, Rubens, Van Dyck, Velazquez, and Titian. Portrait of Mrs. Siddons, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. Greenwich Hospital (6M. from Charing Crosr-; fares, Is., 9d., 6d. ; time 4- h. Or by steamer in 1 hr. from London Bridge; fares, 6d., 4d.), formerly for disabled seamen of the Royal Navy, on site of palace where Henry VIII. was born, where he married AnyKs Boleyn, and where Edward VI. died. Now occupied by the Royal Naval College. The Painted Hall i& open daily at 10 and on Sundays at 2. The Museun of Naval Architecture and the Chapel are open daily, except on Fri. and Sun., from 10 till dark. 154 ST. ALBANS — PUTNEY.- MARGATE. Greenwich Park (174 acres) contains some fine old elms, planted in the time of Charles II. On a little hill stands the Royal Observatory, built in 1675. Harrow-on-the-Hill is 11£ M. (| hr.) from Lon- don. Harrow Ch. stands on an isolated hill, whence grand panorama. Harrow is the location of the second • leading public school in the kingdom (founded 1571). In the old schoolroom the names of Byron, Robert Peel, Sheridan, Palmerston, and others are carved on the panels. See the Chapel and the School Library. St. Albans, 21 M. out (i - 1 hr.), has a noble Nor- man Abbey Ch., founded by Off a II., King of Mercia, in 795 ; rebuilt 1077-88, and made a cathedral in 1877. It is 425 ft. long, and has a massive tower (whence fine view) ; the shrine of St. Alban, the protomartyr of England (a. d. 324); and quaint old chantries and stained windows. 2 battles occurred here in the Wars of the Roses. In St. MichaeVs Ch. Bacon is buried. See Roman walls, Gatehouse, and Clock Tower. Putney (Star and Carter) is quickly reached by steamboat or by rly. Gibbon was born, and Pitt died here. At ChisivicJc Fox and Canning died, and Ho- garth is buried. Opposite Putney is Fulham, with a fine old palace and park of the Bishops of London. Lovely river-scenery in this region. To the S. is Wim- bledon, with famous rifle-ranges. Norwich, 126£ M. from London (fares, 21s., 16s., 10s. lOd.) has many quaint old buildings and chs., a lofty castle, and a splendid JSTorman cathedral (founded in 1096). Col- chester and Ipswich, with their fine relics of mediae- valism, may be visited on the way to Harwich. Margate (C liftonville Hotel; Wliite Hart; York), 72 M. from London, is thronged with visitors in sum- mer. Pier 900 ft. long. Principal chs. : St. John's, Trinity, St. Paul's. Ramsgate, 4J- M. S., is rather ENGLAND. 155 more aristocratic. Season from June to Nov. Bathing good. Fine pier, commenced in 1750. Eastbourne {Burlington Hotel; Anchor; Albion), 65 M. from London (express, 16s., 13s., 9s. 6d., 5s.), is a favorite watering-place. Grand Parade faces the sea. Hastings {Queen's, very large; Albion; Grand; Marine) is 76 M. from London (return fares, 25s., 20s.) "St. Leonard's-on-Sea," the Belgravia of Hastings {Al- exandra; Royal Victoria; Royal Saxon) is the prettiest watering-place in Sussex. Pine beach, and a pleasant esplanade, with splendid line of houses fronting the sea for 2 M. Castle may be visited. Good view of the old town from the Sea Cliffs or the Pier (900 ft. long). Pavilion, first-class baths, aquarium, reading- rooms, here. Excursions should be made to Battle Abbey, 8 M. ; Bexhill, 5 M. ; Catsfield, 3 M. At Battle {Railway Hotel; George), battle of Hastings was fought. The grand ruins of Battle Abbey are open Tuesday, 12-4. Brighton. — It is pleasant to go by a 4-horse coach (tri-weekly, in 6 hrs., 15s.) from the White Horse Cellar, in Piccadilly, to Old Ship Hotel, Brighton. Bly.,l;ihr. ; return fares, 17s. 6d., 12s. 6d. Principal hotels on sea-front : Grand, Bedford, Norfolk, Royal, Crescent, Albion, Old Ship, MarkwelVs, Queen's, Albemarle, Bristol. Many boarding-houses. Brighton is London by the sea. The attraction is the fine sea-front of 3 M. long. The Brighton Grand Aquarium is the largest in the world. On the E. part of the Promenade was the Chain Pier, now destroyed. The W. Pier is opposite Regency- Square. Music on the piers. The Royal Pavilion, begun in 1784 by the Prince of Wales, is now owned by the town, and. used for public balls, etc. Library and Picture Gallery here. Near are South Downs, 55 M. in length, with a breadth of A.\ M. Tun- bridge Wells((7a£t;er/2/; EarVs Court; Grand; Spa) As 156 SOUTHAMPTON.— WINCHESTER. a popular inland watering-place, with chalybeate springs. Bayham Abbey ruins near by. A pleasant excursion may be made along the South Coast from Brighton to Portsmouth {George Hotel; Bedford; Sussex), very important naval station. See the Dockyards (open 10-12, 1-3) ; order from Admiralty obligatory for foreigners. Off the Dockyard lies the Victory, the old wooden ship in which Nelson died. Southsea {Queen's; Esplanade) is a fashionable watering-place near by. See the Common, the Bier 9 the Esplanade. From Portsmouth passengers may em* bark for the Isle of Wight. Portsmouth is 72 miles from London (fares, 15s. 6d., 10s. 10d., 6s. 2d.). Southampton {S.-Western; Radley's; Dolphin; Royal), an important steamship station, 78£ M. from London (fares. 15s. 6d. 5 lis., 6s. 6d.). Boats for the Channel Islands, Harwich, the Isle of Wight, America and India. In Blue Anchor Lane is King John's Palace, one of the oldest houses in England* Excursion to lovely Netley Abbey, 3 M. (open Mon., Tues., Wed., Fri., and Sat.). You may next go to Salisbury {White Hart Hotel; Red Lion; Three Swans; Angel), which contains a noble Cathedral, among the very first in England. It was founded ill 1220, and was the first great English church in the Pointed Style. Exquisite spire, the highest in Eng- land (404 ft.). Cloisters, Chapter- House, and Nave very noticeable. Sculptures in Chapter-House from Old Testament history. Statue of Sydney Herbert in the market-place. See Blackmore Museum. Ex- cursions to Stonehenge, 9 M. N., vast ruins of a Bruidic sanctuary; Wilton House (3 M.), with fine paintings; and Longford Castle. Winchester {George Hotel; Royal; Black Swan) is one ot the great historical cities of England. The Cathedral (1079-1148), 560 ft. long, nave 265 ft., is the principal attraction. Architecture of Nave very ENGLAND 157 curious. See Mural Monuments, Font and Chan- try. In the Central Lady Chapel Queen Mary was married to Philip of Spain, in 1554. See Castle, and make excursion to Hospital of St. Cross; admission 6d. Fares to London, 66£ M., 13s. 10d., 9s. 9d., 5s. 6d. The Isle of Wight may be reached from South- ampton by steamers to Cowes (in f hr.), or to Ryde. Trains run between Ryde and Ventnor, with branch to Newport, and between Ryde and Cowes. The Isle is 22£ M, long and 14 M. broad. Ventnor and the Under Cliff are recommended to invalids. In summer secure rooms in advance. Ryde {Royal Pier; Es- planade; Marine) has fine pier, school of art, museum. It is 12 M. to Ventnor, through delightful scenery. On the route is Sandown (Sandown House; Ocean; York), fashionable resort. Sands and bathing good. Shanklin (Daish's Hotel; Holliers) is a picturesque village. The Chine, near by, is a ro- mantic ravine. Bonchurch, 11 M. from Ryde, is very beautiful ; John Sterling is buried here. Ventnor {Royal; Marine; Queen's; Esplanade ; Crab and Lobster) is much frequented. Fares from London to Ventnor, 21s. 2d., 15s. Id., lis. Return tickets (good for 8 days), 35s. 9d., 26s. 6d., 19s. 9d. Near by are Norris Castle and Osborne House, presented by the King to the nation for a convalescent home. Newport is 1 M. from Carisbrooke Castle, a grand historic ruin. Bath {Grand Pump Room; York; Empire; Pult- eney) has most sumptuously appointed warm baths in Europe. It is a city of 52,000 inh., on the Avon, and once famous as the home of Beau Nash, and the scene of Miss Austen's novels. See the stately Abbey Ch. (1499); Beckford"s Tower and tomb; the Guildhall; and many fine residences and parks. Excursions to Prior Park, Lansdown Hill, Hampton Down, and ruins of Hinton Abbey. From Bath it is 114- M. to 158 BRISTOL. — CARDIFF. —WELLS. Bristol {Royal Hotel; Grand; George), the capital of the W. of England, and a very ancient city. It is on the Avon, 7 M. from the sea. Fine docks at the river's mouth. See St. Mary JRedcliffe Ch., very lovely ; the Cathedral (1140), with tombs of Bishop Butler and Jane Porter, fine cloisters and chapter- house ; College Gate; the Mayor's Chapel (1220); Bris- tol Museum; Clifton, a beautiful suburb; the Suspen- sion Chain Bridge (get the views); Nightingale Val- ley; and Zoological Gardens. Excursions to Blaise Castle; and George Muller's Orphan Asylum (2050 children) at Ashley Station. From Bristol you may cross the Bristol Channel to Cardiff (Royal Hotel ; Park; Angel), a very important Welsh port. See Bute Docks; the Castle; and Sophia Park. Excursions to Caerphilly Castle; Llandajf (witli grand old Cathedral); Llanwit; and St. Donafs. Fro in Cardiff you can make an excursion through S. Wales, and it will richly repay. Fares from Cardiff to Loudon (170 j M.), 35s. 6d., 25s. ; from Bristol to London (11S| M.), 26s. Id., ISs. 3d. Devonshire is one of the most interesting parts of England. Tourists can reach Exeter from London in 4-5 hrs. (distance, 17'3-iM,; fares, 35s., 25s., 14s. 3id.). Or they may go from Bristol to Exeter by "Wells (Swan Hotel ; Star; Mitre), which is a perfect eccle- siastical city, with a moated Bishop's Palace, an em- battled Deanery, and a quaint Vicar s Close. The venerable Cathedral is very rich in sculptures, and in every way impressive. Superb Chapter-House. (See local guides.) Glastonbury (George Hotel; Red Lion) has a ruined Abbey, one of the earliest centres o% Christianity in England. King Arthur was buried here. The George Bin was a hostelry for pilgrims in Edward IV. 's time. This is the ancient Isle of Avalon. Get Williamson's Guide, Is, See St. -John's and St. ENGLAND 159 Benedict's Chs. Exeter {Rougemont; Clarence; New London; Half-Moon) has grand Cathedral, built 1107- 1203, with interesting chapels, Minstrels' Gallery choir, close, and far-viewing tower; the Castle, Norman ruins; the Elizabethan Guildhall; Albert Museum. Plymouth {Duke of Cornwall; Chubb' s; Royal) is rich fn objects of interest. Seethe Hoe, St. Andrew's Ch., the JS/ew Guildhall, Athenceum, Raglan Barracks, the Devonport Column. The Eddystone Lighthouse is 14 M. from Plymouth ; excursion by steamer. x Tor- quay {Imperial; Royal; Belgrave), is a famous water- ing-glace. See the Bay, where the Prince of Orange landed in 1688; Tor Abbey, the Ch, , and the Museum. Beautiful drives and walks. Fares to London (220 M.), 40s. 2d. , 28s. 5d. , 16s. 5£d. Get guides of Devon Coast and Cornwall. Penzance {Queen's Hotel) is 328 M. from London (fares, 63s. 6d., 44s. 6d. 8 26s. 6£d.). Routes to the Oontinem Quickest Routes. — Via Dover and Calais : 22 M. across Channel. To Paris, 283 M. (fares, £3, £2 5s.). Day service : leave London 8- A. m.; arrive at Paris 4.30 p. m. Night service : leave London 8.05 p. m.: reach Paris 6 A. m. — Via Folkestone and Boulogne, day tidal service : London to Paris, 255 M. ; Channel passage, 28 M. in 2 hrs. (Fares, £2 16s., £2 2s.; time, 8£ hrs.) There is a cheap night service to Paris via Boulogne or Calais (fares, 2d class 31s. 6d., 3d class 21s.). Return tickets, express route, via Dover and Calais, or Folkestone and Boulogne, £4 15s., £3 15s.; by night service, 47s., 31s. 6d. You will pass, by South Eastern, Chiselhurst, where Napoleon III. died, and where he and his son Louis are buried ; and by Chat- ham and Dover, you pass Hochester, which has an antique Norman Cathedral, with interesting chapels 160 ROCHESTER— CANTERBURY.— DOVER. and the ruins of a powerful Norman castle, with beautiful environs, including Dickens's old home, Gad's Hill. Just beyond is Chatham, with import- ant dockyards. Canterbury {Fountain, County, Fleur-de-Lys). The ancient Mercery Lane leads to the famous Cathedral, built 1070-1184, 522 ft. long, with remarkable chapels, monuments, crypts, cloisters, and a very beautiful and lofty central tower. See Si. Augustine's College for missionaries, in the ruins of the ancient abbey. Thomas a Becket was killed in the cathedral, and the Black Prince is buried there. At Folkestone {Pavilion Hotel; Grand; Metropole) the train stops near the steamers. Dover {Lord Warden Hotel; Dover Castle; Burling- ton) is worth half a day's stay. The Castle was nearly destroyed by fire in 1897. The Piers and Shakespeare's Cliff {v. King Lear) deserve attention. Routes Longer and Less Expensive. — Via Newhaven and Dieppe (day and night boats in summer, tidal service). Fares, tickets good for 7 days, 33s., 21s., 17s. Time, 12-13 hrs. Channel passage, 64 M. (5|— 7 hrs.). — Via Southampton and Havre: Mon., Wed., and Fri. (fares, 33s., 21s.). Boats leave South- ampton at 11.15 p.m. Channel and river passage tc Havre, 8^-9 hrs.— From London Bridge, across the Channel to Boulogne. — From Dover to Ostend, for those going to Belgium. London to Ostend, 37s. 5d., 26s. 7d. Channel passage, 68 M. (1 hrs.).— From London, via Harwich, to Rotterdam or Antwerp. Leave London at 8 p. m.; Harwich, 10 P. m. ; reach Rotterdam 9 a. m. Antwerp boat leaves at same time ; reaches Antwerp 10 a. m. London to Ant- werp or Rotterdam, 26s., 21s., 15s. Returns, 40s., 31s. 6d., 24s. Daily service. — From London, via Queensborvug7i-, to Flushing daily. HORTHERN FRANCE. 161 NORTHERN FRANCE. *TPHE Ports of Entry in France at which you A may arrive from England are described below. Calais {Hotel Terminus ; Londres ; Sauvage) may be seen in 2-3 hrs. The Citadel (1560); the Fortes Roy ale, du Havre, and de la Mer ; the old bastion called Le Courgain, are very curious. The English held Calais from 1347 to 1558, when France regained possession. Mary Tudor said the name Calais would be found writ- ten on her heart. The Ch. of Notre Dame, with a pic- ture by Rubens ; the Hotel de Ville, on the Place d? Amies ; the old Guet Toioer ; and the Hotel de Guise . (Tudor style), built by Edward III. and his successors, are the principal sights. The Hotel Dessin is mentioned in Sterne's Sentimental Journey. Good sea-bathing in sum- mer. Erom Calais you may go, via Li'le, to Brussels. Boulogne (Hotel des Bains ; De la Marine ; Men- rice; Continental; de Paris et de Boulogne; Cristol et Bristol; Louvre) is picturesque town on the Liane, where it enters the Channel. Fashionable summer re- sort. Has many English residents. The Quais; the Pier; the old fishers' town; the ancient Porte des Dunes, with a statue dated 1231 ; the clumsy Cathedral of Notre Dame ; the Chateau (1230), where Louis Na- poleon was confined in 1840 ; the Hotel de Ville ; and the great Sea-Bathing Establishment, merit notice. Le Sage, author of Gil Bias, and Godfrey de Bouillon were born here. On a hill is the Colonne de la Grande Armee, built 1804-41. Here Napoleon I. assemb^d an immense army and fleet for invading England Dieppe (Royal, Grand, Etrangers, de Paris, Com- 162 HAYRE. mi/ce) 1$ a summer resort of the fashionable world. See the Casino, on the beach ; the great Castle (1433); the ancient Ch. of St. Jacques, patron saint of fisher- men ; the piers : and the Statue of Buquesne. The bathing is fairly good. A red flag is hoisted when the tide is favorable. Ruined castle of Arcques, 4 M. S. E. Carved ivory is a specialty of Dieppe. Havre (Hotel FrascaU ; Be Bordeaux; Aigle xTOr; Be Normandie; B Angleterre), once known as Havre de Grace, from a chapel founded by Louis XII. in 1509, is one of the most important sea- ports in Europe. About 100,000 inhab. Immense American trade. The Docks are remarkable. The Jetee du Nord commands a fine view. From the hill of Ste. Adresse the outlook is charming. The prin- cipal things to see are : The Ch. of Notre Dame (1575); the Hotel de Ville ; the Palais de Justice ; the Grand Treatre ; the Customs Barracks; and the Museum (open Sun., Tues., and Thurs., from 10 to 4). Bronze statues (by David) of Bernardin de St. Pierre and Casimir de la Yigne, natives of Havre. The Jardin Publique is pretty. Rue de Paris is the finest street. Steamers weekly to New York. (See Chapter on Travel.) Opposite Havre, in a pretty bend of the coast (I hr. by steamer), is Trouville-sur-Mer {Hotel des Roches Noires, with . bathing ; Be Paris; d' Angleterre; des Bains), with fine Casino (admission 2 fr.) and beautiful beach. Great number of villas here and at Deauville. Aristocratic resort in Aug. and Sept. Near Trou ville is a chapel in which William the Conqueror offered prayer before he set out to conquer England' 1 hr. by rail from Trouville is Honfieur. Etretat, ifiuch frequented by painters, and Fecamp, a great bathing resort, with a fine Casino, may be vis- ited from Havre. Eares from Havre to Paris, 28 fr. 10 c, 21 fr. 5 c., 15 fr. 45 c. You may go from Havre to NORTHERN FRANCE. 183 Kouen by the Seine, a lovely journey, but very slow (fares, 5 fr., 4 fr.). Kouen {Hotel d'Angleterre; de France; d'Alhion; De la Poste; Paris; Lisieux) can be visited on the way to Paris from Havre or Dieppe: the commercial rival of Havre, a port of much importance; historically and architecturally one of the most attractive places in France. This ancient capital of Normandy has great cotton factories and wine depots. (105,000 inhab.) The Cathedral of Notre Dame is a magnificent Gothic edi- fice, built 1207-80. The central portal on the W. was erected by Cardinal d'Amboise, the favorite of Louis XII., about 1510. Profuse decorations in ilorid style. The Batter Toioer {Tour de Beurre) was built with money got from the sale of indulgences to eat butter in Lent. This is 230 ft. high, unfinished, like its twin. The central spire was destroyed by lightning in 1822, and replaced by an ugly cast-iron structure, 465 ft. high. Spiral staircase to the top. The facade (16th century) contains many remarkable statues and bits of sculptures. In the venerable Tour St. Romahi is a charming 15th-century hall. See the Choir ; the 25 chapels ; the beautiful stained windows, especially the rose windows in the nave and transepts ; the chaoel S. of the nave, which contains the tomb of Hollo, the first Duke of Normandy (927) ; and the chapel oppo- site, m which William of the Long Sword (d. 943) is buried. In the Chapelle du Christ, near the High Altar, is a mutilated limestone figure, 7 ft. high, of Richard Coeur de Lion. The heart of the great king is buried in the Choir. Henry II. of England is buried here. The monument to Due de Breze, erected by his wife, Diana of Poitiers, mistress of Henri II. Also one to Cardinal d'Amboise is in this chapel The r&Chedral was begun in the reign of Jean sans Terre f 164 KOUEN. and finished in 1477. Interior is 435 ft. long, height ol nave 89^ ft., 130 windows. The beautiful Ch. of St. Ouen is one of the noblest Gothic structures in Europe. It is cruciform, and dates from 1318. The portal, between two pyramidal towers, is extremely graceful. Central Tower, " the Crown of Normandy," 285 ft. high. Interior, 443 ft. long by 83 ft. wide. 3 exquisite rose windows ; 145 stained-glass windows. This ch. suffered much from the Iconoclasts (in 1562), as also did the bas-reliefs over the entrance of the great cathedral. The Ch. of St. Maclou (15th- 16th centuries) has a very fine stone spire, and a foun- tain by Jean Goujon. Other chs.: St. Patricia (1535), magnificent stained glass of the 16th century, and paint- ings by Mignard and Poussin ; St. Godard, fine mural paintings ; St. Gervais, with a crypt of the 4th century. St. Viticent and St. Romain also merit a visit. The Archiepiscopal Palace (1461) and the Hotel de Ville, which is a remnant of the old Abbey of St. Ouen, should be visited (library, 120,000 vols.). In front of the Hotel de Ville is an equestrian statue of Napoleon I. Interesting statues of Corneille, Jeanne d'Arc, and Geri- cault. Palace of Justice (concierge shows it, If.) is a veritable Gothic chef-d'oeuvre. The room in which the assizes is held has a carved oaken roof, and it was there that the Parliament of Normandy held Hs sessions. On the 1. of the Courtyard is a great Hall, built in 1493 as a merchants' exchange. It is now the place where lawyers meet their clients to consult. The Museum now contains hundreds of pictures by David, Delacroix, Gericault, Paul Veronese, Poussin, and other celebrated artists. Visit the Rue de la Grosse Horloge, one of the most interesting streets in the city. The old clock- tower, with a gate beneath, dates from 1527. The most interesting section of Rouen is the Place de NORTHERN FRANCE. 165 la Piicelle, where a fountain marks the place on which Joan of Arc is said to have been burned, in 1431. The 15th-century Hotel du Bourgtheroulde fronts on this square. Curious decorations on the tower, and bas- reliefs, one of which shows the Field of the Cloth of Gold. In the Rue Jeanne d'Arc is a Toioer (built 1205), subsequently named after the maid, and sup- posed to have been her prison. The Museum of An- tiquities and the Museum of Natural History are in an old convent near the Place Beauvoisine. The town is rich in old houses with timber-fronts. The Seine here is a large river, navigable for most ships, and bordered by fine quays. The Cours Boiel- dieu has a statue of Bo'ieldieu, the composer, a native of Rouen. The Seine is crossed by a bridge, adorned with a Statue of Co mettle ; and by a suspension bridge, at whose end is a Monument to the Abbe cle la Salle. The surrounding country is extremely beautiful. Climb the adjacent hills, especially to the Pilgrimage Ch. of Bon-Secours, 2 M. out. Delightful view over Normandy. The service in the ch. is peculiar. Many pretty excursions by steamer on the Seine. Visit the Chateau of Robert le Diable, near La Bouille. From Rouen to Paris the fares are 16 fr. 75 c, 12| fr., 9 fr. 20 c. Rouen may be easily visited in a day from Paris (fares, 16| fr., 12| fr., 9 fr. 20 c), returning in the afternoon. At Mantes — called "beautiful Mantes" — is the Gothic Ch. of Notre Dame, of the 12th century, richly sculptured. Junction here for Caen and Cher- bourg. Farther on is Poissg, the birthplace of St. Louis, a lovely town on the Seine, and a favorite resort of artists (great prison here) ; the Forest of St. Germain, through which the line passes ; Colombes ; St. Germain, with its palace, may be seen on the r. ; and Asnieres, a Parisian suburb, inhabited by commercial people. 166 AMIENS. — ABBEVILLE. — AKRAb, Amiens (Hotel cle V Univers ; Du Rhin) Is a gifsat manufacturing town (80,000 inhab), once the capital of Picardy. See Gothic Cathedral, erected 1220-88. and one of tlie finest in Europe. The spire (422 ft. high) was restored in 1529. The W. facade is one of the most beautiful that can be imagined. The 2 towers are decorated with many statues and medallions. In the JPorc/ie du Sauveur is a magnificent statue of Christ, commonly called Le Beau Bleu d' Amiens. Few cathe- dral interiors excite such lively admiration for pro- digious vaults, lightness of the columns, and astonishing variety of lines. The nave is 147 ft. high, and 126 columns support its airy vaulting. See organ gallery (li22) ; 110 stalls in the choir, with 3,650 figures ; superb rose-window; stained-glass windows; and the great number of monuments and chapels. The choir- wall is adorned with reliefs from the history of John the Baptist and the life of St. Firmin. Length of the cathedral, 469 ft.; of transept, 213 ft.; width of nave, 144 ft..; towers, 181 ft. and 210 ft. In the rear is a statue of Peter the Hermit, a native of Amiens, who preached the First Crusade. The Picardy Museum con- tains interesting pictures. The new Palace of Justice, and the Prefecture, which has a 15th-century bell-tower, should be seen. About midway between Amiens and Boulogne is Abbeville, which contains many odd 15tb and 16th century houses ; also the C/i. of St. Vulfran, and a statue to the composer Lesueur. Fares from Amiens to Paris, 16 fr. 10 c, 12 fr. 10 c, 8 fr. 85 c. Ely. connec- tion from Amiens with Arras, Douai, and Lille. Arras {Hotel de V Univers ; Commerce) has a double line of fortifications ; a citadel constructed by Vauban in 1670; and a cathedral, which was the old Ch. of the Abbey of St. Vaast. Within it are seen fine pictures attributed to Rubens and Van Dyck; and the treasury NORTHERN FRANCE. 167 contains the robe that Thomas a Becket wore when he was assassinated. The great square of Arras is a fine illustration of the pictorial style which prevailed during the Spanish domination. Museum and Public Library. The coast line of N. France is dotted with pleasant summer-resorts and picturesque towns, old and new. from Paris to Cherbourg (fares, 45 fr. 70 a, 34 fr. 25 c, 25 fr. 10 c), via Caen, is a journey through the inter- esting Norman towns of Evreux (fine cathedral, 11th century, restored in the 18th) ; Lisieux (cathedral, 1136-1233, in which Henri II. was married, 1152) ; and Caen (Hotel d' Angleterre ; D'Espagne), population 41,181, the town of which Madame de Sevigne said that it was the source " de tous nos plus beaux esprits." View from the heights very imposing. See St. Etienne and Trinite Chs. ; the Chateau, founded by William the Conqueror; the Hotel de Ville, decorated with medallions of celebrated Normans ■ the Museum (400 paintings) ; the Academy ; the Hotel de Valois ; and the Place de la Republique. You can reach Caen from Havre by steamer (6 fr. , 5 fr.), and go thence to Cherbourg ; and thence up to Paris, if de- sired. Cherbourg \Hotel de France; de V Amiraute et de l J Europe), a city of 37,000 inhab., on the peninsula of Cotentin, is the first military port in France, and a very important fortress. There is little to see beside the docks and fortifications ; and, in the Museum, a portrait of Leonardo da Vinci, painted by himself. Fine casino. Granville, farther down on the coast, is the port whence the steamers sail for the Channel Islands. Fares from Paris to Granville, 46 fr. 40 c, 36 fr. 30 c, 22 fr ; 20 c. Still farther down is Mt. Saint Michel, an imposing granite rock, 2,700 ft. around and nearly 200 ft. high, connected with the coast by a dike. The sea surrounds it i ' hisrh tide. The rock is 168 PARIS. surmounted by immense fortifications, an abbey, and u ch., with a statue of St. Michael. Pilgrimages have been made here since Louis XI. created St. Micaael's Order, in 1469. St. Malo, near by, was the birth- place of Chateaubriand, and Jacques Cartier, the pioneer in Canada. Dinan is a pretty little town, with old walls and a 15th-century castle. Great numbers of English people winter here. Dinard, 4 M. from St. Malo, has a fine bathing establishment. The line to Brest is close by. Brest, population 66,000, is a military port and fortress. Vast marine hospital, and barracks. Formidable batteries. Tares, Brest to Paris, 75 fr. 10 c, 56 fr. 35 c, 41 fr. 35 c. On the way see Chartres {Hotel de France ; Du Grand Monarque), an ancient city, with celebrated Cathedral, the towers of which can be seen for 25 M. Upon this noble Gothic ch., which was 160 years in building, there are many thou- sands of statues ; there are 50 bas-reliefs in the choir, and marvellous stained windows of the 12th and 13th centuries. Henri IV. was consecrated in this ch. id 1594. 2 spires, one 371 ft., the other 340 ft. high. There is a Black Virgin here, much adored. The Crypt is beautiful. Many odd 13th-century houses here. Gen. Marceau was a native of Chartres. The Museur>» Contains a noted picture representing his funeral. Paris. Paris, with the exception of the old sections, is a very easy city in which to find one's way about. In ■ summer street-merchants are always at your elbow with very good maps, "with which you can explore the capital, even if you know no French. If you arrive at the Gftre du Nord (N. Ely. stat.), and are not encum- bered with baggage, walk down_ the Rue at Lafayette PARIS. 169 to the Grand Opera and the Boulevard JTaussmann / then turn up the Rue Scribe to the main boulevards, and you will find yourself in the centre of Paris. If you come in from Normandy, you will arrive at the Gave St. Lazare, but a short walk from the boule- vards. In the stat. your baggage is examined both for general customs and octroi duties. Spirits and cigars are the only things about which the officers are strict. A porter will take your trunk or valises, call a cab, install you in it, give you a little card with the cab's number on it, and for this expects about 50 c. (lOcts ). If you have a party, and several large trunks, charter a small private omnibus (always plenty). One that will hold 6 persons costs 6 fr., and no extra charge is made tor a reasonable amount of baggags. Driver expects fee. Caos*( Voituras) — The cab system of Paris is simple- and covenient. From 6 a.m. until 12.30 p.m. a 1-horse open or closed earriage for 2 persons costs, according to legally established tariff, 1-J-fr. for single drive; gra- tuity (pouvboire), rendered obligatory by custom. 25c. ; by hr., 2fr. From 12.30 night until 6 a.m. the tariff is for 2 seated cabs, 2£fr. per drive, 2£fr. per hr. ; 4- seated, 2|fr. per drive, 2ffr. per hr. The whole of a first hr. (when you engage by the hr.) must always be paid; i hrs. thereafter. 50c. each. Baggage (out- side), 25c. per piece. Livery-stable rates per day and per month for carriages are rather high from May to Aug ; with a little care a good open carriage for two (driver in livery) may be had for 25-30fr. per day; gratuity to driver. The taximeter is now in almost universal use. The charges are: For 1200 metres, or 9 min., 75c.; every additional 400 metres, or 3 min., 10c. ; for passing the fortifications, 50c; leaving cab outside fortifications, lfr. For night service (after midnight) there is an ad- ditional charge of 50c. Tip driver at rate of 50c. per nr., but never less Uian #oo. lor tta^ caive or uiatauce* 170 PARIS Street-Cars (called tramways) run on most of the great thoroughfares, except the grand boulevards. They are double- decked; the large ones are very fine. Go to the suburbs upon them rather than by rail or in private carriage. Om- nibuses abound ; there are 32 lines. A full fare paid on •ne procures you a correspondan.ee gratis on another, untij you have reached your destination. Fares inside, 30 c. ; above, outside, 15 c. Ou some streets the tramway cars are moved by steam. On the Seine there are a great many small steamers, called monch^s '.and hirnnrlelles, "flies" and "swallows." The Metropolitan underground rly<, is con~ venient. The Ceinture is the name of the railway which runs around Paris, within the walls (23 M.)„ It is useful for giving a good idea of the capital's geography. Round trip in two hours. Hotels.— Hotel (Plena, Astoria, Place de l'Etoile; Bdtel Ritz, Hotel Bristol, Place Yendome, both expen- sive, aristocratic; Elysee Palace; Hbtel Continental; Cas- tiglione, Ruede Castiglione; Montana, Ruede TEchelle; Vouillemont ; Hotel du Louvre, Rue de Rivoli ; Grand Hotel, Boulevard des Capucines; Terminus, Gare St. Lazare; Vendbme, Place Yendome; Regina, Meurice, Windsor, Brighton, Rue de Rivoli; Grand Hotel St. James, de LiUe fi d 1 Albion, de Normandie, Rue St. Honore; Westminster, Mirabeau, Splendide, Rue de la Paix; de Londres, DomU nici, Liverpool, Rue Castiglione; Chatham, de V Empire? deV Amir ante, d'Orient, Rue Daunou (Rue Neuve St. An- gustin) ; Normandy, des Deux Mondes, and Binda, in the Avenue de l'Opera; du Palais, Cours La Reine; d'AXbe, Avenue de l'Alma; de St. Petersbourg, Rue Caumartin; de VAthenee, Rue Scribe ; de Bade, Boulevard des Itat iens ; de la Terrasse Jouffroy, Boulevard Montmartre ; de Baviere, Rue du Conservatoire ; des Ambassadeurs, Rue de Lille ; de Londres, Rue Bonaparte ; du Senat, Rue de Tournon ; Hotel de CrUlon, Place de la Concorde. More modest hotels are Hotel d" 1 Oxford et de Cambridge; de la Tamise, Rue d' Alger; de la Couronne, Rue du Dau- phin; Trois Princes, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs; & Antin, Rue d'Antin; Helder, Rue du Holder; Byron, Rue 170 St! ihoro iecke mpon nibi •ne ] you abov< move smnll w sw veni runs for i trip H« mt sive Ugly Vou Bon Ven Bri\ and 100 high, surrounded by Corinthian columns. In the colonnade are niches containing figures of saints. Cou- ture contributed to the designs. The pediment, 120 X 25, represents the Last Judgment. The bronze doors are subjects from the Old Testament. On Grand Altar, the Assumption, in white marble ; and painting of Magdalen at the feet of Christ. Flower-market on each side of the ch., Tues. and Fri. Very fine music, Sun. St. Augustin, Boulevard Malesherbes, contains many fine paintings. — The Chapelle Expiatoire, Rue d'Anjou, is to the memory of Louis XVI. and his Queen, and other victims of the Revolution. The new Ste. Clo tilde, Place Bellechasse, and St. Pierre de Montmartre, are worth seeing. Notre Dame de Bonnes Nouvelles, on the summit of Montmartre, is a new church and one of the largest in Paris. PAKIS. 177 The Palaces. — The best place from which to see the imposing front of the Louvre is the park before St. Germain. The Colonnade was constructed in 1685, on the E. facade. The central portion of this front is known as the Pavilion Henri Quatre. See statues of Napoleon I.'s generals on the Rohan Pavilion. The interior courtyard is an architectural marvel. See the 86 colossal statues of illustrious Frenchmen in the Square du Louvre. The entrance to the Museums, which are among the richest and most remarkable in Europe, is through a door on the 1., coming from the Cour du Louvre, under the Sully Pavilion, and through, the Pavilion Denon, in the middle of the N. facade of the building erected by Napoleon III. Collections open, free, daily, except Mon., in summer, 9-5 ; in winter, 10-4. A few of the sculpture rooms and col- lections of antiquities are not opened until 1 p.m. tjuicles 2 fr. an hr., but the catalogues will enable most visitors to find their way about. The Venus of 3Iilo, the Fettered Slaves of Michael Angelo, the Mona Lisa of Leonardo da Vinci, and a noble group of the works of Raphael, Titian, and Veronese are the chief treasures. In one gallery there are 21 large pictures by Hubens. The Salon Carre contains the most striking works of art. There are 2,000 paintings in the Louvre. See the Apollo Gallery (Henri IV.), with plafond by Delacroix. The Marine and Chinese Museums should not be omitted. The Palace of the Tuileries, begun in 1564 by Philibert de Lorme for Catherine de Medicis, is now gone, the site being a garden. It was almost entirely destroyed during the Communal insurrection of 18/1 The whole front was so utterly ruined that restoration was considered out of the question. The Pavilion de Flore and the Gallery on the Seine bank unite the Louvre with the 178 PALAIS DU LUXEMBOURG. Tuileries. Fine sculptures by Cavelier and Carpeaux. The courtyard is the Place du Carrousel. It takes its name from a carousal, or ball, held there by Louis XIV. in 1662. The Triumphal Arch which stands here is an imitation of the Arch of Severus at Rome, and was erected by Napoleon I. to commemorate his victories of 1805-6. It was originally crowned with the horses taken from the portal of St. Mark's Ch. in Venice, but these were sent back to Italy by the Emperor Fran- cis in 1814. Bonaparte, when French Consul, lived there; and Louis XVIIL, Charles X., Louis Phi- lippe, and Napoleon III. made it their home. Read Carlyle's account of the attack on the Tuileries by a mob of 40,000 rioters in 1792. In front is the Tuile- ries Garden, 2,340 ft. long, which extends to the Place de la Concorde, and in summer is a delightful xesort thronged with people. Military music twice a week in summer. The Terrasse cles Feuillamts, on the N. side, is a pleasant promenade. The Palais du Luxembourg was built 1615-20 3 and enlarged in 1801. It was once a royal habitation, a prison during the Revolution, the palace of the Directory and the Consulate, and is now the meet- ing-place of the Senate of the Republic. Chapel and museum open daily (except Mon.), 10-4. The Little Luxembottrg, supposed to have been built by Marie de Medicis, is near by. The collections were (until 1875) next in importance to the Louvre. The Luxembourg- Museum was long the halting-place for pictures of dis- tinguished native artists. Galleries of paintings open daily (Mon. excepted), 9-5 in summer; Sun. and Fri., 10-4. In the garden, where military music is played on Sun., Tues., and Thurs. afternoons, there is a fine fountain, and statues of celebrated Frenchwomen. The Palais Royal is always interesting to strangers. PARIS. 179 It was built 1625-34 for Cardinal Richelieu. The famous galleries, which now form such a charming promenade, and are filled with attractive shops, were built by Philippe-Egalite. The Theatre of the Comedie Frangaise is adjacent to the palace. It was destroyed by fire on March 8, 1900, but has been rebuilt. The "Palais de l'Elysee, having facades on the Faubourg St. Honore and the Champs Ely sees, is at present the residence of the President of the Republic. It was built in 1718, and restored under Napoleon I. Fine old garden on the Champs-Elysees side. The Palais Bourbon, in which the Corps Legislatif held its sessions under Napoleon III., was built for the Duchess of Bourbon in 1722. Fine peristyle fronting on the Seine, with 12 Corinthian columns and flight of steps decorated with colossal statues. The Hotel dela Presidency is near by. The Palais d'Orsay was partly destroyed in May, 1871. The two Palaces of Fine Arts, the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais, occupy the triangle between the Champs Elysees and the Seine, where formerly was the Palais de V Industrie. This was used for the first international exhibition in Paris in 1855, and since then until its demolition the annual Salon was held there. Here also is the approach to the handsome Pont Alexandre III., the memorial stone of which was laid by the Tsar Nicholas II., in 1896. In the Avenue Montaigne is the Palais Pom- peien, built for Prince Napoleon after the one of Diomed at Pompeii. Admission 1-2 fr. The Palace of the Institute, on the site of the olA Hotel de Nesie, was completed in 1662. It is an odd structure, with a Corinthian porch adorned with figures of lions and with fountains. During the Revolution it was a prison. The academy holds its sessions here. The annual meeting of the five departments 180 BOIS DE BOULOGNE combined is held in Aug. in the Great Hall. 2 fine libraries. The Mazarine Library (200,000 vols.) is open to the public 10-1 (except Sun.). The Palais des Beaux-Arts, in the Rue Bonaparte, is the seat of the School of the Fine Arts, founded in 1648 (open daily, 10-1; fee, 1 fr.). On the railing which separates the court from the Rue Bonaparte are colossal busts of Puget and Poussin. Near the Inva- Hdes, in Rue de Grenelle, is the Archbishop's Palace. The quaint mediaeval Hotel de Cluny (founded about 1500), Rue du Sommerard, contains about 4,000 objects in marble, wood, stone, ivory, enamels, terra- cotta, prints, stained glass, pottery, etc. (catalogue at the door). The old Palais des TAermes, which fronts on the Boulevard St. Michel, was built by Constantius Chlorus and by Julian the Apostate, who has left on record his predilection for spending part of his time in his " dear Lutetia " (open daily, 11-4.30). The Musee Municipal, at the Hotel Carnavalet, Rue Sevigne, can be visited with an order. A library of 45,000 vols., composed of works relative to the history of the city of Paris, is here. The interesting Artillery Museum is at the Hotel des Invalides (open Tues., Thurs., and Sun. in summer, 12-3). The Mint Museum, on the Quai Conti. may be visited Tues. and Fri. (12-3), by order. Parks and Gardens. — The Bois de Boulogne is the chief park of the French capital, and comprises a tract of about 2,250 acres, of which 70 are artificial lakes, just opposite the fortifications, and extending along the banks of the Seine. The Bois is connected with the Champs Elysees by several magnificent ave- nues ; and the principal one, the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne, is 4,200 -ft. long and 315 ft. wide. The drive Around the Lake is the rendezvous of the fashion of the capital, in winter from 3 to 5 o'clock, and of PARIS. 181 strangers from all parts of the world in summer from 5-8 o'clock. The Cascade; the Field of Longchamps, on which races and reviews are held; the Jardin d' Acclimatation (zoological gardens) ; Model Dairy, Pre Catalan ; the Allee des Acacias, through the cen- tre of this park; the pretty suburbs of Passy and Auteuil; and the towns of Boulogne, Suresnes and St. Cloud, are the principal objects of interest. E. of Paris is the Bois de Vincennes, a vast woody tract, which, furnishes a delightful breathing- place for the Parisians. The Chateau (open Sat., 12-4, by order from Commandant) was built in 1164, and is a strong fortress, containing barracks and arsenal and a military school. There is a monument to the Due d'Enghien; and from the Donjon, a a square tower 190 feet high, a fine view may be enjoyed. The chapel was founded in 1379. The Buttes Chaumont is a picturesque park of 55 acres, in the Belleville quarter. In the centre is an island bearing a reproduction of the Temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli. Great battle near here on the 30th of May, 1814. The Pare de Monceaux may be entered from the Rue de Courcelles. It covers 18 acres, and is surrounded by magnificent residences of wealthy Parisians. Great numbers of Communists were executed here at the close of the insurrection. The Champs-Elys6es is a world-famous prome- nade. The illumination on the 14th of July (national fete) is a superb spectacle. Most of the Cafe-Concerts of importance have summer theatres here. The Jardin des Plantes, easily reached by omni- bus or by river steamboat, is open daily, 10 till dark. The fine Menagerie is open daily in summer, 10-5 ; the Galleries, containing the collections, Tues. and Sun. afternoons; library daily, 10-3. Botanic Garden here, one of the pleasantest promenades in the city. 182 JULY COLUMN. - AEC DE TRIOMPHE. The Place de la Concorde, one of the finest squares in the world, is a good starting-point for any excursion about Paris. In the centre is the Obelisk of Luxor, given to Louis Philippe by the Pasha of Egypt. It is 76 ft. high, and weighs 240 tons. On either side is a handsome fountain. Arranged about the Place are 8 stone figures, representing the chief towns of France. On the statue of Strasbourg the visitor may generally observe a mourning wreath. The Germans bivouacked here in 1871. In 1792-99, 3,000 people perished here on the guillotine. Louis XVI. was executed near central gate of Tuileries garden . The Place de la Bastille has in its centre the July Column, 153 ft. high, with figure of Libertv See Place du Chateau d'Eau, Place du Chatelet, Place Louvois, and Place Dauphiue. On the Place du Pont St. Michel there is a fine fountain, with a bronze statue of Michael over- coming the Dragon. On the Place St. Georges stands the house in which Thiers lived during the latter years of his life. In the centre of the Place de VEtoile, at the top of the Champs-Elysees, stands the noble Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile, begun in 1806 by Napoleon I., and finished in Louis Philippe's reign, at a cost of $2,000,000. The structure is 160 ft. high, 146 ft. wide, and 72 ft. deep. The vast arch is 67 ft. high and 46 ft. wide. On the side are groups representing the Napo- leonic campaigns. Names of nearly 150 battles appear on the vault. Spiral staircase of 26 1 steps to platform at top, whence a grand view. From the Triumphal Arch to the Porte Maillot runs the Ave. de la Grande Armee. In the Place Vendome is a column 140 ft. high, surmounted by a statue of Napoleon I. , in costume of a Csesar. The column, pulled down by communists in 1871, was made of cannon taken from the Aus- trians. Notice curious heads over the houses round PARIS. 183 the Square. The Place Louvois, near the National Library ; the Place de la Bourse, where stands the Bourse, or Exchange (from a gallery in which visitors can notice the curious financial crush from 12 to 3) ; the Square Montholon, on the Rue Lafayette ; the Esplanade, in front of the Invalides: the Champs de Mars, where four great exhibitions have been held, and where the celebrated Eiffel Tower (984 ft. in height) is located; the Trocadero Gardens, now crowned with a superb palace used for historical collections and for musical concerts ; the Place Glichy, at the head of the street of the same name ; and the Place de la Nation, should not be forgotten by the visitor. The Place de Greve, where the stake and the scaffold were erected so often in the 15th and 16th centuries, is now called the Place de l' Hotel de Ville ; and directly in the rear of it is the new City Hall, a magnificent structure, erected on the ruins of the one burned to the ground by the Communists, May 24, 1871. With the old building, 1533-1628, a library of lv)0,000 vols, was consumed. The new Hotel de Ville is ornamented with hundred? of statues. The Place de la Roquette is a gloomy square, in front of the prison to which criminals are transferred when they are sentenced to death. Man j notorious exe cutions occurred on this Place. In the Place des Victoires see the clumsy statue of Louis XIV.; the statues of Jeanne d'Arc, on the Rue de Rivoli, in the Place des Pt/ramides ; and that of Marshal Ney at the Observatory. The Porte St. Martin and the Porte St. Denis, on the Boulevard St. Denis, are triumphal arches, erected in 1674 and 1672 respectively, to commemorate the victories of Louis XIV. in Holland and on the Lower Rhine. The allied armies, when they entered Paris in 1814, passed through the Porte St. Martin, just as the German armies entered under the Arc de 184 THE PASSAGES OF PARIS. Triomphe in 1871. Near these 2 arches there were sanguinary conflicts in the insurrections of 1830, 1848, and 1S71. One of the most formidable barricades, and one most fiercely defended by the Communists in 1871, was near the Porte St. Martin. On the Square St. Jacques, which occupies a portion of the site of the old Ch. of St. Jacques la Boucherie, is a beautiful tower (1508-22), 160 ft. high, all that now remains of the old church; statue of Pascal, by Cavelier, in a crown of the arch. Great number of other statues on the monument. The Square Monge contains a statue of Voltaire. See in the Square clu Temple the group of lime-trees under which Louis XYL used to sit when he was a prisoner. The Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, opening on the Rue St. Martin, has a magnificent industrial school. Collections most extensive of their kind in Europe (open 10-4 ; Sun., Tues., Thurs., free; Mon., Pri., Sat., 1 fr.) ; articles are all labelled. See Refectory of the old abbey. The handsome Gothic Rail is now a library, 20,000 vols, (open to students, 10-3, 7.30-10 daily). The Fontaine de V Observatoire is ornamented with columns bearing vases, and statues of Morning, Noon, Evening, Night. See Fontaine Cuvier, in the Jardin des Plantes ; Fontaine Gaillon, in the Place of the same name ; Fontaine de Grenelle, one of the finest in the city; the Fontaine des Innocents, in Square of same name; Fontaine Louis le Grand; Fontaine Moliere, entrance to Rue Moliere ; Fontaine Richelieu, in the Rue de Richelieu; Fontaine Notre Dame; Fontaine St. Sulpice ; and the Fontaine de la Victoire. The Passages, or arcades, of Paris should not escape the stranger's attention. The most noticeable are the Passages Jouffroy, des Panoramas, de V Opera, des. Princes, on the grand boulevards ; the Choiseul, Rue des Petits Champs ; Passage Verdean, a continua- PARIS. 185 tion of the Jouffroy ; Passage du Saumon, in the Rue Montmartre ; Passage Vivienne, from Rue Vivienne ; Passage du Havre, from the Rue Caumartin to the Rue St. Lazare. Beware of beggars and people who offer their services in these arcades. The best shop- ping streets are the Rue de la Paix, Rue de la Chaus- see d'Antin, Avenue de l'Opera, Rue Scribe, Boulevard Haussmann, Rue des Capucines, Rue Royale, Rue Auber, Boulevard St. Germain, and all the grand boulevards. The shops in the Avenue de l'Opera are usually reasonable in their prices, but those of the Rue de Rivoli are not. Cemeteries. — There are 14 within the walls. The most noticeable is Pere-la-Chaise. Here the Com- munists made their last stand, and from the hill-top bombarded the neighborhood of the Place de la Con- corde. See graves and tombs here of Helo'ise and Abelard; Alfred de Musset; the composers Bellini, Gretry, Boieldieu, Cherubini, Rossini and Chopin; of Bernardin de St. Pierre, Talma the trage- dian, Dupuytren, Beaumarchais, Manuel and Be- ranger in the same tomb, Benjamin Constant, Racine, Moliere, Lafontaine, Balzac, Eugene Delacroix, Thiers, Marshal Ney; Clement Thomas and Le Comte, the first victims of the Commune; and in the Jewish Cemetery (closed on Saturday) the tombs of Rachel and the Rothschilds. See Prison of La Roquette, in which the Archbishop and other hostages were executed by the Communists. The Montmartre Cemetery has the graves of Hein- rich Heine, Cavaignac, Halevy, Theophile Gautier, Gozlan, Mtirger, Horace Vernet and Troyon. On the Boulevard Montrouge is the Montparnasse Cemetery. Visit the Picpus Cemetery, Rue Picpus, where are tombs of Lafayette and many members of old French nobility, victims of the Revolution. See at end of burial-ground the Cemetery of the Guillotined, where 186 hOtel des invalides. 1,300 persons, executed at the Barriere du 'i'rone, are buried. Fortifications. — Paris is surrounded with ramparts (cost, 128,000,000), with 94 bastions, and 21 M. long. They are 32 ft. high, with parapet 19 ft. wide, moat 48 ft. wide, and a glacis. Since the war of 1870-71 the system of fortifications has been greatly enlarged. The approaches to Paris are now commanded by 16 detached forts, none of them farther than 2 M. from the city. Mont Valerien is the most imposing and pic- turesque. Those near St. Denis and on the 1. bank of the Marne and Seine are best worth visiting. f he Hotel des Invalides is S. of the Seine, in the S. W. portion of the city, and easily reached from the Place de la Concorde. It was founded in 1670 by Louis XIV. for the veterans of the army. There are at present about 500 inmates, although the build- ing was intended to accommodate 5,000. The dome of the Ch. of the Invalides, which can be seen from a long distance, was gilded in the time of Napoleon I. The facade of the great edifice is 660 ft. long. In front of the wings are groups in bronze by Desjardins. Over the principal entrance stands an equestrian figure of Louis XIV. On the Esplanade is the " Triumphal Battery," used in firing salutes on great occasions. Most of the guns are trophies. See the Cour d'Hon- neur, painted with scenes from various French warlike epochs, the Refectories, Library, the Salle du Conseil, the Artillery Museum, and the Ch., in which is the Tomb of Napoleon I., directly beneath the dome (entrance to the dome Mon., Tues., Wed., and Eri., 12-3, free). Above the entrance to the crypt are inscribed the words from v .he Emperor's last will : "I desire that my ashes may repose on the banks of the Seine, among that French people I have so PARIS. 187 well loved/' Note the bas-reliefs by Sim^rfc ; colos- sal victories by Pradier; the sarcophagus, which weighs 67 tons ; the decoration of the tomb ; and tne monument of Vauban and Turenne. In a chapel on the 1. is the tomb of Jerome Bonaparte ; on the r.j the sarcophagus of Joseph Bonaparte, once King of Spain. The Hotel cles Invalides is shown daily from 12-3, except Sun. (small fee). Walk hence to the Ecole Mililaire, founded in 1751 by Louis XV. A noble building; admission by special order. A great number of executions of Communists here. Operas and Theatres. — The majority of the Paris theatres are closed in summer, but tourists will wish to visit the Grand Opera, or National Academy of Music, and the Theatre Francais, which are open the year round. The new Opera House was built 1861-74, and is the largest theatre in the world, cov- ering nearly 3 acres, but seats fewer people (2,156) than La Scala or San Carlo in Italy. The facade is exceedingly rich in statuary. On the r. notice the celebrated group of La Danse by Carpeaux. The 7 others represent music, lyric and idyllic poetry, declamation, song, drama, and lyric drama. Note the medallions and busts of composers. The grand stair- case of white marble, with balustrades of red antique marble and hand-rails of Algerian onyx, is the finest in Europe (see local guides for description). To gen- tlemen we recommend the Sialics de Parterre, 7 fr. ; to families, if economy be an object, the Troisiemes, 8 fr. Ladies not admitted to the orchestra stalls, except occasionally on Sat. The Amphitheatre is the choice part of the house. All this quarter of Paris is illumi- nated by electricity. At the other end of the Avenue de TOpera is the Theatre Frangais, the rank of which is well known. Pounded in 1600, it was unde/ 188 OPERAS AND THEATRES. Moliere's superintendence until his death. The lobby contains statues of Voltaire, G-eorge Sand, and other celebrities (good seats here, 7-10 fr.). Paris is the home of genteel comedy; and the theatres where it can be best seen are the Renaissance, Rejane. Vau- deville, and G-ymnase. For light opera go to the Opera Comique (good seats, 8-12 fr.). The Odeon ranks next to the Frangais, and there, as at the lead- ing theatre, classical drama is often produced. For opera bouffe go to the Trianon, the Bouffes Paris- iens, or the Folies Dramatiques. The Varietes has a specialty of broad vaudevilles and comedies. The Palais Royal and Athenee are the recognized temples of broad comedy and of those light buffooneries played nowhere so well as in Paris. The Chatelet is mainly devoted to spectacles, fairy pieces and ballets. The Theatre Sarah- Bernhardt , formerly des Nations, is is where Bernhardt plays when in Paris. For other theatres, see daily papers or the English papers. There are several circus buildings and an immense Hippodrome. Concerts Sunday afternoons in win- ter, generally at the Theatre dn Chatelet, Ihedtre Sarah Bernhardt and Champs Elysees Circus. The best music halls are the Olympia, Casino de Paris, la Scala and Folies-Bergere ; in summer, the Mar- igny, Jardin de Paris, des Ambassadeurs and Alcazar d'Fte, all in the Champs Elysees. Museums. — The Louvre ; paintings, statuary, antiquities; 10-4 in winter, 9-5 in summer, Mondays •excepted. The Luxembourg ; paintings, statuary, chiefly works of living French artists; 9-5 except Sun. ; when the Senate is in session tickets must be obtained from a Senator or from the Secretaire de la {juesture. Cluny, Rue de Sommerard ; antiquities and curiosities; 10-4 except Monday. Moliere. Collec- tion of busts and portraits of great value as regards the literary history of France, in various parts of the Theatre Francuits; authorization to visit the non- PARIS 189 Sublic parts of building from the archivist, M. G. lonval. Camavalet, Rue de Sevigne; objects re- lating to the history of the French Revolution ; 11-4 Sun. and Thurs. Archives Nationales, Rue des Francs-Bourgeois; objects and documents relative to French history; 10-4 except Monday. Cabinet des Estampes et des Medailles, Rue Richelieu ; 10-4 daily. Musee des Beaux-Arts, Rue Bonaparte; casts, copies, engravings; 10-4 daily. Instrumental, Rue de Fau- bourg-Poisonniere; musical instruments of all epochs; 12-4 Mon. and Thurs. De V Opera; autograph MSS. of composers, instruments, costumes; 11-4 except Sunday. De la Monnaie, Quai Conti ; medals, coins, postage stamps; 12-3 Tues. and Fri. on authorization obtained from the director of the mint. Des Gobelins, ancient and modern tapestries; 1-3 Wed. and Sat. Trocadero; on the ground floor, casts of architectural and other sculpture; 11-4 except Monday; first floor, ethnographical museum; 12-4 Sunday and Thursday. Guimet, Avenue d'lena; collection relative to the history of eastern religions; 12-4 daily. Du Garde- Meuble, Quai d'Orsay; furniture, tapestries, bronzes, etc., from Louis XIV. to present time; interesting; 10-4 except Monday. Des Arts et Metiers, Rue St.- Martin; collection relative to applied science and in- dustries; one of the halls has remarkable acoustic properties; 10-4 Sun., Tues. and Thurs.; other days by special permit. Dupuytren and Orftla, Rue de l'Ecole de Medicine; anatomy and pathology; 10-4 except Sunday ; tickets obtained at the office of the secretary of the Faculte de Medecine. D'Artillerie, at the Hotel des Invalides; arms and armor; 10-4 except Monday. Caen, 1 Rue de Seine; paintings offered in competition for the Prix de Rome; admis- sion on request. Cemusci, 7 Avenue Velasquez*, Chinese and Japanese art. National Library (2,000,000 vols.), in the Rue de Richelieu, (see local guides); the beautiful St. 190 ALONG THE SEINE Genevieve Library (120,000 vols, and 35,000 MSS.), Place du Pantheon; the Halles Centrales, vast pavilions cov. ering many acres, reached froni the Rue Montmartre or Boulevard Sebastopol, should be visited between 6 and 8 a.m., when the marketing is most active. The Bourse de Commerce, in the Rue du Louvre, replaces the old wheat exchange called the Halle au Ble. The Halle aux Vim, or the wine depot of the city, is next the Jardin des Plantes ; 20 million gallons can be stored there. The Abattoirs, or slaughter-houses, cover 67 acres, and 1,000 persons are employed there. The Hospitals of the Hotel Dieu, Beaujon, Fau- bourg St. Honore; La Charite, Rue Jacob; LaPitie, Rue Lacepede; Lariboisiere, near the N. Rly. stat.; St. Lowfc, Rue Bichat ; Du Midi, Rue des Capucines ; De Lourcine, street of same name ; Des Cliniques, Place de l'Ecole de Meaecine; Des Incurables, at Ivry,— may generally be visited without difficulty. For descriptions of the great Asylums, of the Mont de Piete, of the Prisons (historical ones mentioned elsewhere), and of the minor military establishments, see local guides. An excursion through the Sewers, from the Bastille to the Place de la Con- corde, in boats and wagons, may be made twice a month in summer. The Catacombs, which contain the bones of most of the victims of the Revolution, and of nearly 6,000,000 of other dead, may be occasionally visited with permission. Of the 27 bridges over the Seine, the most noticeable are the Pont d'Austerlitz, which has 5 stone arches, is 390 feet long, and has the names of the principal officers killed in the celebrated battle inscribed on the ornaments of the bridge. It was built in 1808, and rebuilt in 185S. The Pont Neuf was begun in 1578, and completed in 1624. Upon it stands an equestrian statue of Henry IV. The Pont des Arts was built for pedestrians only. The Pont du Carrousel has 4 colossal stone statues, those on the left bank representing Abundance and Industry* and on the right the Seine and the City of Paris. The Pont Royal was built in 1668. Just below is the pier for the steamers which run to St. Cloud and Suresnes. Far- VERSAILLES 191 ther down the Seine are the Pont de Sdlferino, 155 yards }ong, with the names of the principal French victories in the campaign of 1859 inscribed upon the cornices; the Pont de la Concorde, opposite the Palais Bourbon; the Pont dcs Invalided, which has statues representing victory by land and victory by sea; the Pout de VAlma, with statues between the arches representing different types of French soldiers; the Pout d^ena, built 1808-13, opposite the Champ de Mars, with colossal statues of men and horses; the Pont Alexandre III., built in 1899; and the Pont du Jour 3 a superb viaduct, 570 feet long. Excursions near Paris. Versailles (Hotel des Reservoirs, where the German princes dwelt during the siege of Paris) is reached by half-hourly trains from St. Lazare or Mont-Parnasse stat. (ll|-12i M. ; return-fares, 3 fr. 30c, 2f'r,70c.); or by tramway from the Louvre (10 M.) ; or by carriage, through the Bois de Boulogne, the Park of St. Cloud, and Ville d'Avray. Versailles is a sleepy old town of 61,000 inhab., which has grown up around the palace that Louis XIV. built on an isolated plateau between low, forest-covered hills, at a cost of $200,000,000. The palace overlooks the town. Bee Hotel de Ville; the Palais de Justice; the Library (60,000 vols.) ; the Salle du Jeu de Paume, the cradle of the French Revolution; the Statue of Horace Vemet ; and the Theatre, restored in 1850 ; the Place Hoe he, with the statue of the General ; and the Cathedral of St. Louis. The courtyard contains many statues, among which are those of Bayard, Colbert, Massena, and Tu- remie, and an equestrian bronze statue of Louis XIV. In 1661 Louis XIV. formed his great scheme of a palace and park; and Levan and Mansard erected the buildings, while Le Notre laid out and decorated the gardens. The palace has not been inhabited s*ice 1789 i ana in the reign of Louis Philippe it was con* 192 VERSAILLES. Verted into a museum, devoted, as the inscription shows, " To all the Glories of Prance." The Chapel is gorgeously decorated (1696-1710). The Museum is open daily, 12-4 (except Mon.). The entrance is at the 1. in the Marble Courtyard. Notice the Marble Staircase, leading to the first story ; and th» Queen's Staircase, to the second. The Museum is va> -, and its magnificent halls are crowded with statues, and por- traits of the generals, admirals, and sovr /jigns of France, and with hundreds of pictures of he? battles in all four continents, painted by Vernet, Scheffer, )elacroix, Regnault, etc., forming an unrivalled panoras »a of mili- tary glory. 33 grand battle-pictures in ikderie des Batailles, a hall 396 X 52 ft. in area. In tl,e Salle du Sacre is the great picture of the " Consecration of Napoleon," by David ; also, Gros's famouw painting, " The Battle of Aboukir." The Grande Galerie des Glaces is the most notable hall, 240 X 35 ft. in area, adorned with Le Brun's paintings (1679-83), and over, looking the gardens. The Bedroom of Lduis XIV. , the Salle des Gardes, the King's Antech umber, the Council Hall, the Salle de la Guerre ; and, on the ground floor, the Halls of the Marshals, oi' the Kings of France (67 portraits, from Clovis to Napoleon III.), and of the Royal Residences, — are especially worth visiting. The Sculpture Galleries are extremely inter- esting. In the Queen s Chamber the 3 queens, Marie Therese, Marie Leczinska, and Marie Antoinette, have lodged. Catalogues, giving description of all the rooms, fur sale at palace. Fine view of the Grand Canal and the Basin of Apollo from the steps in front of the palace. The fountains play afternoons on Sun. (gen. erally announced in the Paris papers) The chief cu/ riosities of the gardens are the Orangery (1685); the Parterres du Midi and du Nora T ; the -Piece d'Eau de* ST. CLOUD. 193 Suites ; the Neptune Fountain ; the two fountains near the Orangery ; the Lalona Basin ; and the Grande Ah lee cki Tapis Vert. The Grand Canal is 4,674 ft. long, and about 186 ft. wide. It was here that Louis XIV. gave his Venetian festivals, famous in history. The Grand Trianon, a horseshoe-shaped villa, built by Louis XIV. for Madame Maintenon, is _ open daily (12-4). Richly furnished rooms, in which Bazaine was tried. The gardens of the Petit Trianon are also open daily. Notice the curious display of old state- coaches used by the sovereigns of France, in a coach- house near the Grand Trianon. When the Grand.es, Emir, plav, rly. tickets from Paris cost 2 fr, 1^ fr. St. Cloud ("Restaurants: Belvedere; de la Gare) is visited from St. Lazare (lfr. 60c., lfr. 10c.;; or by steamer, which is preferable in warm weather. From the bridge over the Seine turn to the 1., and walk through the Park to the Great Cascade. Then turn up to the ruined Palace (built in 1572), mainly de- stroyed by French shells, thrown into the wood to dis- lodge the Germans. This was a favorite residence of Napoleon III. (One-horse carriages per hr., 3 fr.) Many ruined buildings in the town, remains of the conflagration started by the Germans. Beautiful new ch. in the 12th-century style, with a lofty stone spire. New Hotel de Ville, near by. Magnificent outlook over Paris from the hill above the stat. The Palace was inhabited by most of the French sovereigns, from 1785. The rly. from Paris to Versailles runs through the beautiful park, which is ornamented with statues, foun- tains, and lakes. See the Trocadero Garden, N. of the palace ; the Pavilion de Breteuil ; and the great water jet, to the 1. of the Cascade. The Park of Montr etont near the rly., was the scene of a desperate fight, k the sortie made by the French, Jan. 19, 1871, in which they lost 3,000 men. Monument here to the slain. 194 SEVRES— ST. GERMAIN-RUEIL Sevres is easily readied from St. Cloud. Here is the noted porcelain factory. Exhibition room of the Ceramic Museum open daily, 12-5 ; strangers admitted "without cards. The Workshops may be inspected Mon., Thurs., and Sat., 12-5 (get cards at 3 Rue de Yalois, Paris). Illy, from Paris to Bellevue, 5 min. walk from the factory. St Germain-en-Laye. This is one of the most beautiful excursions near Paris (fares, lfr. 65 c, lfr. 35 c). The principal sights are the Pavilion Henri Quatre, in which Louis XIV. was bom, and Thiers died; the magnificent Terrace on the border of the forest of St. Germain ; and the gloomy old Chateau , where James II. of England lived after the Revolution of 1C88. In the Ch. is a Mausoleum, erected by George IY. to the memory of James. The 'forest of St. Ger- main, one of the largest near Paris (9,000 acres), is full of charming walks, and a day or two may well be spent in this lofty and healthy old town. The Museum of National Antiquities is in the chateau (open "Sun., Tues., and Thurs., 11-5). The Terrace, constructed by Le Notre in 1672, is 1^- M. long, with superb view. Prom St. Germain to Versailles is a pleasant walk. Rueil (fares, 95 c, 65 c.) is 8f M. from St. Lazare stat. In its Ch. -are monuments to Empress Josephine and Queen Hortense. Malmaison (tramway from Rueil, 2 M.) was the favorite home of Napoleon, and there Josephine -died in 1814. Not far away is the Chateau of Buzenval, near which the artist, Henri Regnault, was killed in the fight of Jan. 19, 1871. About 2| M. from Rueil is Bougival, a resort of celebrated painters. See the Restaurant, witli walls decorated with land- scapes by Corot, Pranyais, etc. Prom thence go to Louveciennes, a lovely village, with a 15th-century ch. It is but 7-8 min. walk thence to Voirirj. On the ST. DENIS. — ENGHIEN. 1 95' hill is Marly-le-Roi, where stood a beautiful palace built by Louis XIV., and destroyed during the Revo- lution. Victorien Sarclou lives here. To the W. is Monte Cristo, in which Dumas the Elder lived so long. St. Denis is 4 M. from Paris (return-fares, 1 fr. 30 c, 85 c., 70 c). Chapel begun here, a.d. 275, in honor of St. Denis, who had his head cut off on Montmartre, and who is said to have taken it on his arm and walked off across the fields. Dagobert built the ch., which was the nucleus of the one begun by Pepin, finished by Charlemagne in 775, and demol- ished and a larger one built on its ruins 400 years later. During the Revolution the ch. was pillaged. It was restored by Viollet-le-Duc. Beautiful monuments and statues here. Here Charlemagne was anointed ; the Oriflamme was kept ; Abelard dwelt ; Joan of Arc hung up her arms; Henri I. abjured Protestant- ism; and Napoleon I. was married to Marie Louise. The bones of the Kings of Prance from Dagobert (630) to Louis XV. (1774) were buried here; and the mad Revolutionists tore them from their tombs, and buried them in a common ditch. They are now in the crypt, and the superb royal monuments adorn the ch., whose interior is 354 ft. long and 129 ft. wide, lighted by splendid stained windows, and en- riched with mosaics and statuary. Enghien and Montmorency are on the N. Rly. EngMen is noted for sulphur baths; and at Mont- morency is the Hermitage which Rousseau inhabited, and where he began La Nouvelle Helolse. Robespierre and G retry also Jived here. Chaniilly and Compiegne {fares to Char.tillv. 5fr. 5c , 3fr. 75c, 2fr. 80c ; to Compiegne. lOfr. 30c, 7fr. 35c, _3fr. 65c) Chan- Lilly was the Versailles of the Princes of Conde. and was beautified by them from the 13th century until the 196 COMPIEGNE.-FONTAINEBLEAU. Revolution. It has two fine chateaux (described by Madame de Sevigne), and a famous forest of 10 square M. Spring and autumn races here. Com- pifegne has always been a royal residence. Napoleon I. was fond of it, and Napoleon III. entertained there with great magnificence. The GaUrie des Fetes is superb. The Library was the favorite work-place of Napoleon III. The Compiegne Forest is 59 M. around. From Compiegne to Pierrefonds, excursion by omnibus through the forest, 9 M. Grand feudal fortress, built in 1400, and restored by Viollet-le-Puc, with 8 huge towers and a donjon, on a rocky height over Pierrefonds. Hotel des Ruines, near by. Ermenonville (return tickets, 7 fr. 90 c, 5 fr. 90 c, 4 fr. 95 c. ; Le Bourget, where there were many fights in 1870-71, is on this route), is the beautiful retreat where Eousseau died, in 1778. Celebrated Park just beyond, at Mortefontaine. — Trains run to Fontaine- bleau {Lion d'Or; Aigle-Noir ; Du Nordetdela Poste; De la Chancellerie) from the Gare de Lyons (return tickets, 9 fr., 6 fr. 80 c, 4 f«. 95 c). On the the road is Charenton, with its celebrated lunatic asylum and fortress ; Alfort, where there is a horse and dog hospital; Montmesly and Ilelun, with two handsome old chs. and a Gothic town-hall. From stat., omnibus (1£ M. ; 30-50 c.) to the Chateau (open daily, 12-4). This stately palace was built by Francis L, on the site of Louis VII. 's castle; and here Conde died, the Edict of Nantes was revoked, Louis XIII. was born, Josephine was divorced, Napoleon signed his abdication, Pius VII. was imprisoned, and Napoleon III. was baptized. It is crowded with rich frescoes and paintings, Gobe- lins tapestries, and antique furnishings. See the bou- doir of Marie Antoinette, the bedrooms or Anne of Austria and Catherine de Medicis, and the splendid SCEAUX. — MEUDON. — ORLEANS. 197 fealle des Fetes. This was a favorite abode of the Empress Eugenie and her son. The Forest, dear to artists, and one of the most beautiful in the world, must be seen. It is 50 M. around, with many fine gorges, crags, and heaths, and has 12,400 M. of roads and pathways. On the borders are many charming villages inhabited mainly by artists ; and the lovers of Millet will visit Barbizon. Sceaux (return-fares, 2 fi\ 20c, 1 fr. 40c, 1 fr. 10c) is a beautiful hill-town, with a delicious Park and the Chateau where Colbert once lived and Voltaire wrote several of his famous tragedies. Chatillon was the scene of many combats during the siege. Meudon is reached from the Tuileries by boat every 15 minutes. In the Chateau, built in 1695 and burned by the Germans in 1871, the Empress Marie Louise and Prince Napoleon lived. This was also the- parish of Rabelais. Fine view from Terrace (where the Prussians had a 26-gun battery) ; noble trees. T he walk through Meudon to Versailles is charming. To Orleans, Blois, and Tours (fares to Tours, 28 fr. 80 c, 21 fr. 60 c, 15 fr. 80 c. ; 145| M.>. Orleans. (Hotel a" Orleans ; Be Lolret), founded by the Romans, on the Loire, contains a noble Flamboyant Cathedral, the only Gothic cathedral built in Europe since the Middle Ages. It has a grand interior, with double aisles ; and 2 towers, each 280 ft. high. See the bronze replica of a marble statue of Jeanne d'Arc made by Princess Marie, the Museum, and the Mairie. Orleans was the capital of the first Kingdom of Bur- gundy. The forest of Orleans is one of the largest in the country. The Germans took the city in 1870. Blois {Hotel d'Anr/leterre) has a stately old Castle-, for centuries a residence of kings and queens. Fine old houses in the town. 12 Mi. (2 hrs.) hence, by 1 98 AMBOISE. — TOURS. — DIJON. omnibus, is the grand, many-towered, and historic Castle of Chambord, built by Francis I. and stiD in the Bourbon family. From Onzain stat. it is 1 M. to the Chateau de Chaumont, a high-towered hill-fortress, where Catherine de Medicis lived ; Car- dinal d'Amboise was born ; the Prince de Conde was imprisoned • and Voltaire wrote La Pucelle. 11 M. beyond is Amboise, with its famous Castle, perched on a lofty crag, and dating from 1470. In the gardens is an exquisite Gothic chapel, with marvellous stone- carving. 10 M. S. is the castle of Chenonceausp built by Francis I., inhabited by Diana de Poi- tiers and Louise of Lorraine, and the favorite resort of Voltaire, Rousseau, Bolingbroke, etc. It, is still in perfect order, and elegantly furnished. At Tours {Hotel de PUnioers, near the stat.), in Touraine, on the Loire, the best French is spoken. See Gothic Cathe- dral, founded in 1170 ; Episcopal Palace ; many famous schools ; a Museum with 200 paintings ; a fine Public Library ; and two ancient towers (relics of the old Cathedral), beneath one of ^hich the wife of Charle- magne was buried. Many American and English families reside here. See Plessis les Tours, the home of Louis XL For other excursions from Paris see local guides. Routes from Paris to Switzerland. Our itinerary leads to Germany, before entering SwiV zerland. From Paris to Geneva, by Dijon and Macon. — In 11 hrs., by express train (distance, 388 £ M. ; fares, 76 fr. 75 c. , 47 f r. 30 c. , 30 f r. 85 c). Many stop at Macon over night. T)ijoii( Hotel du Jura, near the sta. de la Cloche, Bourgogne), (50.000 inhab. , is in the wine-growing dis- MACON - BELFORT - RHEIMS 199 trict. See Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, now a town-hall, with very interesting museum ; the Castle, built by Louis XI. ; the Burgundian-Gottiic Ch. of Notre Dame (built 1220-30), with a curious clock. Macon {Hotel de V Europe) is an important rly. junction (good buffet). Fine views of the Jura Mts. from the train. At Amberieu you begin to climb the mts. Junction at Culoz for Aix-les-Bains, Chambery, and Turin. Near here some fine viaducts, and the Fort de V Eel-use, the key to the Rhone valley. From this point you traverse a picturesque mt. country to Geneva. From Paris to Switzerland, via Pontarlier (fares from Paris to Berne, 63 fr. 15 c, 50 fr. 85 c, 37 fr. 25 c). Same route as previous one to Dijon. From Pontarlier the route leads up through the mts. to Berne ; the scenery is wildly beautiful. A branch leads from Pontarlier to Lausanne (fares from Paris, 67 fr., 47 fr. 80 c, 35 fr.). From Paris to Basle, by Troy.es, Chawnonf, Vesoul, and Belfort, the fortress which made a heroic resistance in 3 870, and thence either through Alsace, touching at Mulhouse, or by Belle to Basle. From Paris to Basle, via Nancy, Strasbourg, and Mulhouse (fare, 75 fr. 60 c). The interesting towns on this route are Meaus (Hotel ales 3 Rois), 25 M. from Paris, in a ioveiy situation on the Manic Superb Gothic Cathedral of iSi. Ktienne, with Monuments oj Bosswt (who was Bishop of Meaux) and Philip oj Castille. Clulteau Thierry was the birthplace of La- fontaine. From Epernay branch (fare, 3fr. 70c.) to Rheims)H6tel Lion (TOr; Grand; Commerce), city of 105, OtK) inhab. In its cathedral the kings of France have been crowned. See magnificent Gothic Abbey Ch. of St. Remi, founded by Clovis in 6rh century; and Cathedral, built 1212-1430, and one of the grandest 200 SEDAN. — TOUL. — NANCY. — THE VOSGES. hi. Europe. It is 466 ft. long and 124 ft. high ; filled with beautiful statues and monuments. Splendid rose- windows and interesting Treasury. Charles VII. was crowned here ; Joan of Arc standing by his side. The Hotel cle Ville contains a tine public library. Ely. to Sedan {Hotel de la Croix d'Or), where MacMahon's army of 80,000 men surrendered. Beyond Epernay on t he main line is Chalons-sur- Marne ; and Bar-le-Duc (Hotel du Cygne). Statues of Marshal Oudinot and Gen. Excelmans ; monument of the Prince of Orange. Toul, on the Moselle, is a for- tress which was besieged in 1870. Nancy ( Grand; Americain; de Paris), the old capital of Lor- raine, and the prettiest town in France, with a large Cathedral, an interesting Museum (in the Hotel de Ville), a splendid new Prefecture, and a fine speci- men of Flamboyant Gothic in the Palace of the Dukes of Lorraine. JVotre Dame de Bon-Secours contains the Tomb of Stanislas, ex-King of Poland, who lived in Nancy after abdicating his throne in 1735. See triumphal arch ; two fountains ; and Statues of Thiers, Gattot, Drouot, and Stanislas. Near the gate of St. Jean is the Cross of the Duke of Bur- gundy, close to which was found the body of Charles the Bold, after the celebrated battle (1477). Beyond Nancy you pass through the Vosges Mts« and down to Strasbourg, ST. QUENTIN, — MONS. — VALENCIENNES. 201 BELGIUM. WE now invite your attention to the route from Paris to Brussels and other sections of Belgium, our advice being that it is well to see portions of Bel- gium, Holland, and Germany before visiting Switzerland and Italy. The most direct route from Paris to Brussels is from the Gare du Nord, via Tergnier, Maubeuge, and Mons (time, 6| hrs. ; fares, 36 fr. 20 c, 27 fr. 20 c, 18 fr. 90 a). You pass through St. Denis ; Chantilly ; Creil ; Compiegne ; St. Quentin, an important manu- facturing centre, with a noble ch. as well as a magnifi- cent City Hall of the 14th and 15th centuries ; through the valley of the Sambre to Maubeuge and thence to Feignies, the French frontier. Mons (Hotel Couronne) had a castle built by Julius Caesar. It is the centre of a great coal-mining country. Splendid interior of the Cathedral of St. Waudru (1450-1589) and Hotel de Ville (1458). Belfry built in 1662 by the Spaniards. At Malplaque't, 3 M. S. E., Marlborough defeated the French in 1700, and lost 20,000 men. Between Mons jttid Brussels is Hal, with the elegant 14th-century Notre Dame, still a place for pious pilgrimages. Before reach- ing Brussels you can see Ste. Gudule's towers. Another route from Paris to Brussels traverses Amiens, Arras, Douai, and Mons (fares, 39 fr. 25 c, 29 fr. 45 c, 20 fr. 55 c). Douai {Hotel de Flandre) is an important place de guerre, and has an interesting mu- seum and town-hall. Valenciennes is also a strong old fortress and a great manufacturing town. Here is a statue of Froissart, the chronicler, born in Valen- ciennes. From thence to Mons you pass through a 203 LILLE - NAMUR - LIEGE fertile and populous country, by Jemmapes, where the French won a great victory over the Austrians itf 1792. There is also a direct route from Paris to Ghev-t b} Lille, Roubaix, and Courtrai (9 lirs. ; fares, 37 fr. 70 c. f 28 fr. 25 c). Lille (Hotel de V Europe), a manufactur- ing town of 188,000 inhab., is a first-class fortress oit the river Deule. St. Catherine's Ch. has an altar-piece by Rubens. In the Wicar Museum is a precious col- lection of drawings by the Italian masters. In the great square is a column commemorative of the Aus- trian siege of 1792. Statue of Gen. Negrie.r, killed at Paris in 1848. Roubaix, 5 M. beyond, is a great woollen and cotton working town of 83,000 inhab. * production $40,000,000 yearly. Tourcoing, the- I?reiLc£ frontier, is a factory -town. Prom London one may go via Calais to Brussels by Lille and Tournai (fares from Calais, 21 fr. 80 c, 15 fr. 95 c, 11 fr. 40 c). Leaving London at 8.05 p.m. you reach Brussels at 6 a.m. (fares, £2 11 s., £1 18 s.) From, Paris to Liege, via Charleroi, is 228^ M. (ex- press in 8 hrs. ; fares, 42 fr. 40 c, 31 fr. 90 c, 21 fr. 35 a). This is also the route from Paris to Cologne (fares from Paris, 59 fr. 35 c, 44 fr. 20 c.)- Charle- roi is a modern town, an industrial centre of Belgium. The environs are fine. 46,000 workmen employed in coal-mining. The line crosses the Sambre 13 times on the way to Namur, a pretty fortified town, of Roman origin, with a vast old citadel, on the Meuse. It has several spacious squares, and a Renaissance Cathedral. Namur has sustained several celebrated sieges, — among others that of 1692, commanded by Louis XIV. in person. Archaeological Museum worth visiting. Prom Namur you may go to Luxembourg. Liege (d' 'Angleterre ; de VTJnivws ; Chemin de BELGIUM. 203 Fer; Zte5Wr?al ; Bristol), hand son. j city of 250,000 inhab., once capital of Hanover, and since 1866 a Prussian provincial capital. See the palaces of the Hanoverian kings; the Royal Library, of 170.000 vols. ; the handsome Theatre ; the Museums ; and nu- merous statues and monuments. N. W is the imposing Palace of the Guelphs ; also, Uerrenhausen, the subur- ban palace and park of the dethroned dynasty Hano- ver is 10 hrs. from Rotterdam, on the route to Berlin ; and 7-10 hrs. from Berlin, via Brunswick (fares, 3 mks. 80 j)t, 2 1 mks.) and Magdeburg. Brunswick (Schra- der's Hotel; Deutsche*), the residence of the Duke of Brunswick, 125,000 inhab., has a mediaeval air, with its ancient Gothic- Town Hall; St. Martin's Ch., rich in carvings ; the Cathedral, built by the Crusader Henry the Lion in 1172 ; the bronze Lion monument (1166) ; etc. The splendid new Ducal Palace is near the Ducal Museum, in which are 900 pictures, and countless other relics and curios. See also the War Momiment and the Theatre. The fortifications have been replaced by promenades and gardens. Magdeburg {Central H?tel) on the Elbe, has 220.000 inhab. . and a very cele- brated CathedraU1208). Great cannon-foundry near* HAMBURG. — BREMEN. 239 From Hanover it is 112 M.(4-5 hrs ; fares 16 mks. 80 pf., 12| mks., 8 mks.) by Lurieburg, with its ancient houses and pHs:. to Hamburg (Hamburger Hof ; Esplanade; Atlantic; Kronprinz; Vier Jahreszeiien; Europa), 680,000 rnhab., ranking next after London among the important seaports of Europe. It is on the lower Elbe, and is the chief of the three Hanseatic towns. Charlemagne founded a castle here (805), and Louis the Pious an archbishopric ; but the city is now all modern. There are vast and crowded quays, shipyards, rlvs., docks, a busy Exchange, a Town Li- brary (250,000 vols.), museums, monuments, and a good Art Gallery, The Bimien-Alster is a charming water- park, 1 M. around, surrounded by quays and prome- nades, lines of trees, and blocks of handsome houses and hotels, and enlivened by many pleasure-boats and groups of swans. From Hamburg, trains run S. W., 76 M. (2£ hrs.; fares, 10| mks., 7f mks., 4f mks), across a poc c, .flat country, to Bremen(Central; Hillmarts; Siedenburg; Be V Eu- rope; Du Word), a great Hanseatic commercial town, on the Weser River, with 142,000 inh. See the richly decorated Rathhaus (1410) ; the frescoed Rathskeller, famous for wines ; the 11th-century Romanesque Cathe- dral ; the Kumthalle, with pictures: the splendid new Gothic Exchange ; and colossal Roland statue (1412). Frankfort to Weimar, Leipsic, and Berlin. Time required, 12-14 hrs. ; fares, 43 mks. 40 pf., 32 mks. 60 pf., 22 mks. 40 pf This route passes through Fulda, an ancient ecclesiastical capital ; and in 5-6 hrs. reaches Eisenach {Gtrossherzog von Sachsen), the quiet town where Luther went to school. Near by is the Wartburg, a lofty Romanesque castle, founded in 1070, 240 GOTHA.- WEIMAR. -LEIPSIC. and lately restored and richly frescoed. Here Luther was hidden (1521-22), and many relics of his sojourn are shown. 4 hrs. S,, beyond the Ducal capital of Memingen, is Coburg (Victoria), a handsome Francouian city, with a remarkable castle. On the Berlin route is Gotha (Deutsche?* Hof), a pleasant ducal city, with 26,000 inhab. In and near the great Friedeustem Palace are remarkable collec- tions of antiquities, coins, objects of art, sculptures, engravings, a library of 200,000 vols., and a famous picture-gallery. The Thuringian Forest lies around the Eisenach- Goth a rly. Erfurt (Romischer Kaiser) is an ancient Prussian fortress, with 53,000 inhab., a high-placed Gothic Cathedral, and the August mi an Monastery in which Luther became a monk in 1505. Farther on toward Berlin is Weimar (Erbpnnz ; Russischer Hof), capital of the grand-duchy of Saxe- Weimar, an ancient town of 20,000 mhab. Goethe lived here 56 years, until his death in 1832; and his collections are shown. Schil- ler's house is open daily. Herder and Wieland also lived at Weimar. Statues of all these are in the town; and frescos from their works adorn the hand- some Grand Ducal Palace. Their busts and many curiosities are in the Grand-Ducal Library (170,000 vols.; open daily). The Museum (open April-Sept., 10-4) has many curios and paintings. The Stadt- kirche (1400) has a Crucifixion by Cranach, and the tomb of Herder. Schiller and Goethe are buried in the cemetery, S. of the town. Farther towards Berlin is Leipsic (Kaiserhof, Hauffe. de Russie, Sedan, de Prusse), a city of 400,000 inhab., the centre of the German book-trade, the seat of high imperial tribunals, and the place where 3 great fairs are held yearly, drawing many traders even from Asia and LEIPSIC. — BERLIN. 241 the Levant. 30 000 strangers come to these fairs ; and the annual sales (largely of furs, leather, and cloths) ex- ceed $ 50,000,000. These picturesque exchanges have been carried on for over 700 years. There are 300 booksellers and 80 printing-ofSees here. The Museum has Thorwaldsen's Ganymede, and an immense collec- tion of paintings and engravings, mostly modern (open Sun., Wed. ,Fri., free; Mon. 1 mk.; Tiies.,Thurs..Sat., •§mk.). The AugusUum is the seat of the University, which was founded in 1402, and has 3,200 students and a library of 350.003 vols, and 4,000 MSS. See the New T lieu t re, with beautiful Corinthian fag ide ; the Pleis- sen'jurr/ citadel ; the old houses in the Grimma'sche Strasse ; Aaerhaclis Keller, where part of the scene of G >ethe's Faust is laid ; the house in the Bruhl where Richard Wagner was born ; the Ethnographical Museum, etc. In 4 Oct. days of 1813, 300,000 Prussians, Ans- triaus, and Russians, headed by their sovereigns, de- feated Napoleon and 140,000 Frenchmen here, and drove them out of Leipsic. In the Market Place is the War Monument by Siemering. On the LeLpsic-.vIu^lel)urg.-{iauiburg rlv. is Halle (Bode; Hamburg; AVo ;>;■-/.' -v.?). with 91 000 inhab., and a i is mis uiiiversifv (I 000 students). In the market?- pi ice is t!n •\n^' ,n it, RathiWus, five immv-towered Ch. of u- Lady (15 D) ■> cl >ck'-towp'r 27A ft. high, and a st.u-ie of Handel Thorn at Halle. 1685) Berlin (Adlon, Alexandra, Carlton, Kaiserhof, Bristol, Royal, Savoy, Palast, Central, Continental, Rome, Monopol, Westminster, Esplanade), capital of Ger- many) 1.600,000 inhabitants), is 3 to 4 hours from Leipsic, on a sandy plain, by the river Spree. Origi- 242 BERLIN. nally a Wendish fishing-village, and afterwards a Han- seatic town, it was notably improved by the Great Elector (1040-88), and by Frederick the Great and his predecessor (1713 86). Since the accession of William I. in 1861 the population has increased fourfold, and the arts and trades have flourished remarkably. The best part of the city may be seen by walking down the Unler den louden, a broad avenue, 1 M. long, with double rows of lime-trees, from the Brandenburg Gate to the Royal Palace. The Gate is an imitation of the Propylaea at Athens, crowned by a fine statue of Victory with horses. This was taken to Paris in 1807 as a trophy. Outside is the T hiergarten ; inside, the Pariser-Platz, with the Bliicher Palace and Officers' Club on the S., and the French Emha. sy on the N. There are several other embassies and palaces on the Linden, with various govern- ment buildings. The Florentine palace of Count Redern is the first building on the S., and beyond are the resi- dences of the Minister of Religion and Education and of the Russian Ambassador. Opposite is the Ministry of the Interior. See the Aquarium and the arcade, Kaiser-Gal' lerie. '. the E. end is the bronze statue of Frederick the Great, by Rauch, called the finest of its kind in Europe. The king is on horseback, in his coronation- robes; and the lofty pedestal is surrounded with life-size statues of his generals, princes, etc. To the S. is the Palace of Wil- liam I., behind which is the Royal Library (open 1-2), with 1,000,000 volumes and 30,000 MSS. N. is the Academy Building containing the Academies of Art and of Science; also the University (7,000 students), once Prince Henry's palace, and partly enclosing gardens in which are statues of the Humboldts. Fine anatomical, mineral, and zoologi- cal collections here; and a library of 100,000 vols. The Opern Platz contains statues of 5 generals, by Rauch, and is bounded by the Palace, University, Opera House, and BERLIN. ^43 St. Hedwiy's C7)., an imitation of the Roman Pantheon. Farther E., on the Linden, at the r. is ttie Empress Fred- erick Palace; and at the 1. is the Ro]/al Guard-House (military music in summer, 11-13), a copy of a Roman fortified gate. Back of this is the Singing-Academy ; and on one side is the handsome Arsenal, with many rare trophies of war. Close by is the Schloss Bridge, adorned with 8 groups of statuary, and leading to the Lustgarten, a park in which stands an equestrian statue of Frederick William III. On one side is the Royal Paiaee, a vast double quadrangle, built since 1540, and containing 600 rooms (open daily, 10-1). See Swiss Hal], King's Hall, Red-Eagle Hall, Throne Room, now Ritter Saal, Velvet Room, Black Eagle Hall, Picture Gallery (fine modern battle-paintings), White Saloon (statues of the 12 Elec- tors), and Chapel, rich in alabaster and gems, and splendidly frescoed. Magnificent new Cathedral must not be missed. Opposite the palace is the Old Museum, the finest building in the city, with a grand Ionic portico, adorned with colossal bronze groups, and richly frescoed halls (open daily, 10-3). See the collections of antiquities; the sculptures ; the Hall of the Heroes, and the Picture Gallery, unexcelled in its facilities for the study of art history. The New Museum contains Kaulbach's famous mural paintings, the Egyptian museum, an immense collection of casts, 12 cabinets of Northern antiquities, 4 rooms of objects of art, and 500,000 engravings. It has a Renaissance facade to the E. ; and opposite is the new Corinthian temple of the National Gallery (open daily, 11-3), which contains a magnificent and world-renowned collection of modern paintings. Tne Friedrichs-Stadt is the business centre of Berlin, antl the streets in this section are interesting. The 244 BERLIN. Theatre is a. classic structure, on the Schiller-Platz, witb several line bronze groups; in front, a noble statue of Schiller. The Wilhelmstrasse contains notable palaces; and in the Wilhelms-Platz are statues of 6 of Frederick the Great's generals. At the west end of the. busy Leip- ziger-Strasse are the halls of the Prussian Diet, the offices of the ministers of War and Navy, and of the Postmaster- General; adjoining latter is the interes'ting Post- Office Museum. Just beyond Leipziger-Platz is the Potsdamer- Platz, and near this on Koniggratzer-Strasse corner Prinz-Albrecht-Strasse is Ethnographical Museum (10-3), next to which is the Art Industrial Museum (10-3). Belle Alliance Platz contains lofty granite column of Peace (1840), surrounded by splendid marble groups. At the E. end of Leipziger-Strasse is the Spittel-Markt. Near this (5 Wall-Strasse) is Raven&s Gallery of modern French and German pictures (Tues. & Fri., 10-2). S. of the Schloss-Brucke is the Academy of Architecture. The Schinkel-Platzh&s statues of Schinkel, Beuth, and Thaer. The Kurfilrsten Bridge leads from the square S. of the Royal Palace into old Berlin, where are the Imperial Post-Office and the 14th-century Ch. of St. Mary. The Rathhaus (open 10-3) is an immense Romanesque building of brick (1860-70), with a tower 286 ft. high, and several handsome halls. Underneath is the Rathskeller, a great refreshment -room. Opposite the Museum is the Stock Exchange, a sumptuous Renaissance building, with the greatest hall in Berlin, richly frescoed. Beyond the Hercules Bridge (on which are statues by Schadow) is Monbijou, a beautiful royal palace, in which is the Hohen- zollern Museum (daily, 10-3) . Near by is the great Syna- gogue, Moorish in style. The splendid KOnigs-Platz adjoins the Thiergarten, and contains the Monument of Victory, 190 ft. high, com- POTSDAM. 245 memorating the battles of 1870-71. Here is the Italian Renaissance Hall of the Imperial Diet, which cost 22,000,- 000 mks. Avenue of Victory, Berlin's favorite promenade, leads through the Thiergarten, a park 2 M. long and J M. wide, with many ponds and groves of large trees. At the end is a large Zoological Garden. S. of this is the Emperor William Memorial Church, erected in 1895. To S.E. is the Botanical Garden with plants of 20,000 species. Horse-cars run through the Thiergarten to CSiarlotteoburg-, a large town with a Palace (1699) in a handsome garden, and a Mausoleum, with sculptures by illustrious masters. In Berlin's Old Trinity Cemetery, Mendelssohn is buried ; and in Trinity Cemetery, Schleiermacher and Neander. Cor- nelius rests in Hedwig^s Cemetery; Ranch, Schadow, Schinkel, Hegel, and Fichte, in the Old Dorotheenstadt Cemetery; and the Humboldts, at Tegel. Potsdam (Einsiedler, Eisenbahn, with good restaurant) is 16 M. from Berlin (% hr.; 75 pf.), among wooded hills and the lakelike expanses of the Havel. Here is the Sans- souci Palace, built by Frederick the Great, and full of reminiscences of him. Near by are the Picture-Gallery, the Orangery (adorned with fine statuary), and the Sicilian Garden. The New Palace (1769) has 200 richly adorned rooms, with fine paintings, and a noteworthy Marble Saloon. The Mai^ble Palace is N. of Potsdam, and has many paintings. Babelsberg is a new Gothic palace, with rich art-treasures, The Town Palace (1660) is full of relics of the Great Frederick. The Garrison Church con- tains his tomb and military trophies. The Church of Peace is a noble Ionic basilica, with masterpieces of sculpture. The famous Sanssouci fountains play on summer Sunday afternoons. There are several chateaux of princes near Potsdam (60,000 inhab.). ;HESDEN. Dresden and Prague. Express- trains, Berlin to Dresden, 3 hrs. (108 M. ; 16 mks. 30 pf ., 12 mks. 20 pf ., 8 inks. 50 pf . ). Dresden (Grand Union, Savoy, Europaischer Hof, Conti- nental, Bellevue, Berlin, Rom, Kronprinz, Vier JahreS' zeiten), "the German Florence," has 400,000 inhab., and has been the capital of Saxony since 1485. Many British and American families dwell here, induced by the abundant facilities for culture and amusement, and also by the cheapness of living. The Elbe is crossed by 2 stone bridges, and bordered by the popular promenade, the Briilil Terrace, adorned with statuary and trees. Here front the Synagogue, the Art Academy, the Exhibition Buildings, and the Court Ch. (famous music, Sun. and festivals, 11) Statues . of Richter and Semper and the Maurice monument here. Opposite Court Church is the Hof-TJieater, and near it Guard House. In square is equestrian statue of King John. The Royal Palace (1534) is an irregular double quadrangle, with a tower 361 ft. high, and a richlv frescoed Throne Room. The Green- Vault (9-2 daily ; catalogue, 1 mk.) contains the largest existing collection of objects of art, bronzes, ivory carv- ings, mosaics, enamels, gems, crystal, and magnificent plate; also the regalia of Poland and Saxony, superb state swords, and precious stones of enormous value ; and works of Durer, Angelo, and Cellini. The Museum (part of the Zwinger) is a Renaissance building decorated with statues and sculptures, and containing the finest picture- gallery N. of Italy (open daily; Sun., Tues., Thurs., Fri. free). Here are 2,400 paintings, including the Sistine Madonna, Correggio's La Notte, and Titian's Tribute Money; and choice works of SAXON SWITZERLAND. 247 Murillo, Diirer, Teniers, Veronese, etc. ; also, 350,000 engravings, a great museum of casts, collections in natural history and mineralogy, and the most interest- ing Historical Museum in Germany (ancient weapons, armor, furniture, and trophies of war). See t the Eng- lish ch. ; the stone-domed Ch. of Our Lady; the Cross Ch., with tower 34(3 ft. high, and fountains and statues in the streets. Monument to the War of 1870—71, in the Old Market. The Japanese Palace, across the Elbe, contains the Royal Library, with 400,000 vols., 6,000 MSS,, and many rare old books and maps (open to visitors 12-1 summer, 1-2 winter, -§ mk.) ; the Collection of Porcelain (15,000 pieces of Dresden, Sevres, and Ori- ental wares ; open daily) ; and collections of coins and antiquities. In the rear is the pretty Japanese Garden, near which Korner was born and Schiller dwelt. The Grosse Garten is a royal park of 300 acres, wherein the French, and Prussians fought in 1813. Here are Zoological and Botanical Gardens; also a Museum of Antiquities, and Riefschel Museum of sculptures (both open daily). Schlegei and Weber are buried in the Catholic Cemetery. The monument where Gen. Moreau was mortally wounded is \\ M. S. ; and the Moritzburg, a royal hunting-lodge, is 6 M. N. Pillnitz (7 M.) is a handsome royal chateau. Many charming suburban excursions. The Saxon Switzerland is a beautiful int. region, 4-500 square M. in area, filled with grotesque sand* stone peaks and gorges, and traversed by the Elbe. A 2-days' tour leads from Dresden to Potzscha (f hr. by rly.) ; thence (\\ hr.) to the Bastei, a hotel-crowned peak, overlooking the whole region and the Elbe valley, thence (5 hrs.) to Schandau, a summer resort (hotels) in the heart of the mt c and thence (1 day) by the 248 PRAGUE. Lichtenhain Fall and the Kuhstall and Prebischthor peaks, to Kbnigstein, a lofty and imposing Saxon for- tress. It is 5-7 lirs. (fares, 18 mks. 70 pf., 14 mks. 10 pf., 9 mks. 40 pf.) up the Elbe valley and through the Saxon Switzerland, by Pima and Konigstein, with their fortresses, -and Bodenbach (2>| hrs. from the Schneeberg, and opposite the handsome castle of Tescheii), from Dresden to Pragme (De Saxe; Monopol: Royal; Schwartzes Ross; JBlauer Stem; Victoria; Goldener Engel) . the capital of Bohemia (250,000 inh.), situated on hills near the Moldau River, f of the people are Bohemians, aad the Germans are very unpop^ar. The city was founded by the Duchess Libussa. Here Huss and Jerome preached the Reformation, which took firm root in Bohemia until the Protestant army was crushed, just outside of Prague, in 1620, by the Bavarian forces of the Roman-Catholic League. The palace of the Bohemian kings is now an Austrian barrack ; and the old Hussite ch., the Teynkirche, containing Tycho Brahe's tomb, is now Roman. In front of the Rath- haus 27 Protestant Bohemian nobles were executed, in 1620 ; and 11 of Wallenstein's officers, in 1633. See the Palace of Count Clam Gallas ; the Gothic Pulver- thurm tower ; the great Jesuit College ; the ancient University, founded in 1348 ; the Bohemian National Museum; the Rossmarkt, a grand street adorned with statues ; the Neustadt Rathhaus, where the Hussite wars began ; the Jews' Quarter, with 9 synagogues and a very ancient cemetery; and the Wysschrad citadel. The Charles Bridge (1357-1507), with 16 arches, towers of defence (on one of which the heads of the Protestant nobles were exposed for 10 years), and 30 statues of saints, crosses the Moldau to the splendid Radetzkv Monument (made from Italian cannon) and CARLSBAD. — - TEPLITZ. 249 the Jesuit Ch. On the rocky heights above is the mar- vellous Hradschin, where stands the Cathedral (1344; -85), containing the marble and alabaster mausoleum (1589) of the Bohemian kings; the tombs of St. Adal- bert, St. Vitus, St. Wenzel, and several Sclavonic kings, and many rare mosaics and paintings. The great Imperial Palace (open daily, 11-1, 1 ii.) con- tains portraits, ancient halls, and the Council Chamber from which the imperial councillors were thrown, causing the Thirty Years' War. In the Sternberg Palace is a collection of 350-400 paintings (open daily). The vast Czernin Palace is now a barrack. Near it is a Capuchin monastery, with a chapel copied after the Casa Santa at Loretto. Higher up is the wealthy and imposing Abbey of Strahow, with the tombs of St. Norbert and Gen. Pappenheim, a painting by Bikes, a fine library, and splendid views over Prague, tjie Moldau plain, and the Giant Mts. Below the Belvedere, an imperial villa (1536) with Bohemian historical frescos, are Wallenstein's Palace (1636) and the Nostitz Palace, containing 400 paintings. Carlsbad (Savoy; Bristol; Pupp; Anger's; Konigs- villa; National; Hannover; i\.roh), 6-7 hrs, W. of Prague, is visited by over 20.000 yearly, who find the suiptmr and saline waters beneficial, and pretty scenery of Te.pl glens and pine woods very charming. Teplitz (Zurn alien Rat ha us; Blatter Stem), 3^1 hrs. from Dresden, 4-5 hrs. from Prague, another fam- ous watering-place, with warm alkaline springs, used for bathing. Scenery is' mountainous, picturesque; and ruined castles, hill-top inns, and rich abbeys abound From Prague to Munich is a ride of 11—12 hrs. (38 mks. 90 pf., 3Q mks. 60 pf., 21| mks.). Prom Prague you can go to Vienna by night-train (217 M. ; 8-10 hrs. ; fares, 18 mks. 70 pf., 13 mks. 70 pf.), via 250 VIENNA. Tabor and Gmiind. Berlin to Breslau and Vienna, 18-20 hrs. Dresden to Znaini aDd Vienna, 14 hrs. Vienna. Hotels.— Imperial ; Archduke Charles; Bristol ; Metropole ; De France ; Residenz ; Meissl ; Krantz; Grand; SacJier; (in the suburbs), Continental, Leo- poldstadt; Summer, Mariahilf; Holler, Neubau. Restaurants. — Vienna is expensive town, and a few hints raav be useful. There is no obligation to take more than first breakfast in hotels where you lodge. Sachers, near th* Opera; Hopfer ; Hartmann; Leh- ner; Bellaria; Drehers, close to Opera, and some of the cafe-restaurants on the Ring, are good. The Viennese sup from 9 to 11 ; and the traveller should not fail to take supper in one of the concert-halls, fre- quented by good society. Table-d , h6te is not general. Good dinners can be had at the restaurants, at fixed price's. Austrian wines most in use are Voslauer (red) and Gumpoldskirchener (white). The Hungarian wines are Erlauer, Carlo witzer, and Of ener (red) ; and Tokayer a, id Ruster (white). Carriages (2-horse), 1 fl. for drive within the city limits; 1-Jfl. an hr. ; 1 -horse, lfl. 20kr. an hr. Drivers expect liberal gratuity. Horse-cars, with smoking- compartments, run around the Ring, the Franz- Joseph-Quai, and across the Aspern Bridge to the Prater (fare, 12kr.). The railway termini are all joined by a circular connecting line. The capital of Austria and Hungary, with upwards of 1,400,000 inh., stands on. a mountain- walled plain near the Danube River, and is one of the handsomest, most enterprising, and most interesting of European cities. Vienna was first a Celtic village; then a Roman fort, where Marcus Aurelius died (18<*); left a deso- lation by the Huns; made a fief of the empire by Charlemagne; occupied by the Duke of Austria in VIENNA. 251 1156; en riche:! by the Crusades; fortified in 1251; oc- cupied by the Hapsburgs in 1276 ; besieged by the Turks in 1529 and 1683 ; occupied by the French in 1805 and 1809 ; and in the power of Prussia in 1866. The Church of St. Stephen, at the centre of Vienna, built of limestone, 1300-1510, and restored in 1860. The nave is 354 ft. long and 89 feet high ; and its rich groined roof rests on huge pillars, adorned with 100 statuettes. See the old imperial burial-vault, the tomb of Prince Eugene ol Savoy, the stone pulpit (1512), the sarcophagus in the Thekla Choir, the carved choir-stalls, and the stained windows. Great catacombs beneath. On the outside, see Giant's, Eagle's, and Bishop's Doors, tomb of the Meisiersanger, pulpit of Capistranus, and Heathen towers. The tower is 453 ft. high (20 kr.), and the guides point out thence the battle-fields of Wagram and Essling. At the corner of the Graben, the chief business and shop- ping street, is the Stock am Eisen, a pine-tree stump full of nails, driven on account of an ancient custom. In the Graben is the grotesque Trinity Column (1693). The Kohlmarkt is a street of shops, leading to the Im- perial Palace. The Ring is the magnificent boule- vard, 165 ft. wide and 2 M. long, which (with the Quay on the Danube Canal) surrounds the inner town, and occupies the place of the old ramparts and glacis. Beginning at the Aspern Bridge, it passes between the great barracks and the Custom House. The next section, the Stub en-Ring ^ passes the handsome new Austrian Museum, (open daily), with 9 rooms, crowded with choice works in gold, brass, iron, ivory, bronze, tapestry, leather, etc., and paintings and stal. uary. This German S i Kensington is joined by a corridor to the Technical School, near which is a statue of Pallas Athene. The Park-Ring runs between the 252 VIENNA. pretty Stadt Park, where the Strausses may often h* heard, and the Horticultural Palace, behind which are the splendid modern palaces of the Duke of Coburg and the Archduke William. The Kolowrat-Rhg passes the Casino (the club of the nobility) and the Gothic Academie Gymnasium. From the Schwartzenberg-Platz, with its monument and ducal palaces, the Karnthner- Ring passes the Imperial and Grand Hotels, the beauti- ful building of the Musical Union, and the Renaissance Artists' House (exhibitions of paintings). The busy Openi-Ring leads by the magnificent Opera House, the best in Germany, with sumptuous frescos and decorations ; and the Palace of the Archduke Albert, in which is the Albertina (open Mon. and Thurs., 9-2), a collection of 40,000 books, 200,000 engravings, and hundreds of drawings by Raphael, Rubens, Diirer, etc. The Burg-Ring is between the huge new buildings of the Imperial Museums and the Imperial Palace. The Franzens-Ring passes the A r olksgarten, a popular park, with a temple containing Canova's Theseus. Near it is the superb Votive Ch., ommem orating the Em- peror's escape from assassination in 1853, and adorned with twin spires, abounding in statues, and 345 ft, high, and wonderful stained windows. Near by are vast hospitals, unrivalled in Europe ; and the great new buildings of the University, the Gothic Rathhaus, the Courts of Justice, the Hofburg Theatre, the Mili- tary Offices, and the classic Parliament House. The Schotten-Ring contains the Exchange, a new Renais- sance structure (cost $2,500,000), the vast Police Office, and the Stiftungshaus erected on the site of the Ring Theatre, which was burned with great loss of life in 1881. and leads to the Danube Canal. The Hofburg, or Imperial Palace, the home of Austria's sovereigns for 6 centuries, is a vast and irreg- VIENNA 253 ular group of buildings, with a labyrinth of courts, gates, and corridors. See the magnificent Knights' zlall, m the Residenz; the apartments of Maria Theresa; ^he Riding -School ; the Guard-House (military music daily, at 1); the Augustinian Ch., with its monuments; the Hofgarien; and the statues of Francis I., Joseph II., the Aichduke Charles, Prince Eugene, etc. The Imperial Library (open daily, 9-4) contains 600,000 Vols., 20,000 MSS., and 300,000 engravings. The Natural-History and Mineral Cabinets are very inter- esting. The Treasury (open almost every day) is the most interesting in Europe, and contains the entire t'egalia of Austria, coronation -robes, jewel-studded dec- orations, jewelry, caskets of gold, silver, and crystal, Napoleon I.'s regalia as King of Italy, the sabre of Haroun-al-Raschid, the crown and sword of Charle- magne, the lance which pierced the Saviour's side, etc. Among the jewels is the Florentine diamond, valued at $300,000. The homely Capuchin Ch. contains the Imperial Vault (open daily; gratuity for the poor), where you may see the coffins in which lie Maria Theresa, Marie Louise, Maximilian of Mexico, and other sovereigns. Near by is the Imperial Print ing -Office (open Tues. and Fri., 9-12). The University (4,000 students) is in the Franzens-Ring. • The suburban Liechtenstein Palace (open daily, 9—6) has a gallery of 1,600 paintings, with many remarkable works of Rubens and Van Dyck. The Schonborn Palace (Mon., Wed., and Fri., 9-3) has a famous collection of pictures ; and the Harrach Pair ace (Wed. and Sat., 10-4) contains 400 interesting paintings. There are many very interesting ancient and modern chs. in Vienna, many palaces, and civic and national institutions, monuments, squares and bridges, which should be seen. 254 VIENNA, The Belvedere, an Imperial residence,built in 1693- 1724, and once inhabited by Prince Eugene of Savoy, has a beautiful French garden. Its gallery formerly contained about 1,500 paintings, including a remark- able collection of early Italian and Venetian works, and Diirer's world-renowned " Trinity," all of which were removed to the Imperial Art Museum in 1891. The other of the two buildings forming the Belve- dere, known as the Lower Belvedere, contained the famous Ambras collection, removed in 1889 to the Art-History Museum. Near by is the vast Arsenal, with the richly frescoed Hall of Fame, and thousands of military relics and trophies of the Turkish, French, Swedish, and Italian wars. Here also are great bar- racks, gun-factory, and cannon-foundry. The Prater is an immense forest-park on the B (laid out in 1766), with cafes, band-music, theatres, and avenues. On May and June afternoons the fashion- able world of Austria may be seen driving in the HawpU Allee. Wurstel Prater is the part frequented by the humbler classes. In the cemetery of Wahring, 1^ M. N. W. of the city, Beethoven, Schubert, and Grillpar- zer are buried; Mozart lies at Si. Mane, and Gluck at Matzleinsdorf. Schonbrunn (horse-cars or omnibus) is a splendid suburban imperial residence, where Napoleon I. had his headquarters, and where his son died (1832). Beautiful gardens, fountains, statuary, and flowers. On the W. are the villas of Hietzing. Laxenburg (f hr. by rly.) is another imperial chateau (built in 1377), with many interesting halls and monuments. The Kahlenberg, N. of Vienna, overlooks the Danube plain, the Carpathians, aud the Styrian Alps. There are many other lovely excursions in the environs. PESTH 255 SOUTHEASTERN EUROPE THIS interesting region is easily reached from Vi- enna, whence steamers descend the Danube to Pesth in 12-18 hrs. (starting at 6.80 a. m. ; fares, 7 fl., 4f fl.). Pesth to Vienna, by rly., 7-8 hrs. (fares 9 fl. 60 kr., 7 fl. 80 kr. by express) The steamer passes Lobau island, where Napoleon and 150,000 soldiers, with 700 cannon, were encamped in 1809; and the cas- ties of Deutsch- Altenburg . 1 1 'ainburg, and Theben, and in 2| hrs. reaches Presburg (Gruner Baum; Konig wn Ungavn), the former capital (48,000 inn,), on the foot-hills of the little Carpathians. In the Cathedral (1090) the Hungarian kings were crowned. Before it is a statue of St. Martin. See the Rathhaus (1288); the beautiful Franciscan Gh. (1293); and the Museums. From the ruins of the imperial palace, on the Schloss* berg, there is a lovely view over the villages and vine- yards. Beautiful excursions in the vicinity Below Presburg the shores are flat. Komorn is a powerful fortress (14,000 inhab.); Gran (10,000 in- nab.) has lofty-domed cathedral; Wisiegrad, a ven- erable fortress, ruined by the Turks. Budapest (Grand Hotel Ilungaria; Queen of England; Pannonia; Jdgerhom ; Royal; Fiume, in Buda; Jlargaretenbad, on the island) has 750,000 inhabitants. It is the capital of Hungary, and is a handsome modern city, next only to Vienna in im- portance in the empire-kingdom. The beautiful modern Renaissance Academy (11-1) contains a li- brary and botanical collection, and has many Hun- garian landscapes and historical paintings. The National 3fusenm (9-1) is rich in Roman Transyl- vanian. and Hungarian antiquities, and has a natural history collection and a library and waiting room. The magnificent Moro-Romanesque Redoute Build- ings contain ball-rooms, concert halls, assembly rooms, etc. The new Museum of Fine A rts contains the great National (formerly Esterhazy) Gallery with 256 BELGRADE-BAZIASCH. 900 paintings, 22,000 drawings, and about 75,000 engravings, and also a collection of modern pictures. See the Industrial Art Museum with exterior colored ornamentation in Magyar style ; the House of Par- liament ; the Palace of Justice ; the Rathaus ; the Opera House; the new Royal Agricultural Museum in the Varoshget Park ; the Post Office ; the pro- menades along the Danube ; the statues of Stefan Szechenyi, Joseph von Eotvos, Archduke Joseph, Franz Deak, Alexander Petofi, Semmelweiss, the dis- coverer, after Oliver Wendell Holmes, of the cause of puerperal fever, and George Washington; colossal sculptural bulls in front of the slaughter house ; the Varosliget Park ; the Kerepesi Cemetery with monu- ments of Kossuth, Batthyany, Deak, and others; the Margarethen-lnsel, a pretty island-park (cafes and military music) ; and various new national buildings. A splendid suspension-bridge and other bridges connect Pest and Buda (Of en). The latter was once a Roman colony, and for 150 years a Turkish town. See the Royal Palace, the great modern fortress, and St. Matthius Church. There are famous baths in Ofen, founded by the Turks, near one of which is a mosque. Steamers from Pesth to Orsova, 50 hours, a superb trip, passing Mohdcs, where the Turks conquered Hungary (1526); Neusatz, a fortified modern tiWn; Peterwardein, where Peter the Hermit preached the First Crusade ; Carloivitz, and Semlin, where is Hunyadi's castle. Belgrade (Hotel de Paris), the capital of Servia, has 40,000 inhab., a quaint Oriental town, with nar- row streets curving under a fortress-crowned rock. 4-5 hrs. below is Baziasch, the end of the ry. from Pesth. Travelers come down this way and take steamer at Baziasch, where the Danube enters the magnificent scenery of the Carpathians. On the r., in this tre- ORSOVA. — BUCHAREST. 257 mendous defile, is the ruined fortress of Grdubacz, and ancient Roman forts. At Drencova the rapids are entered. Servia is on the r., Hungary on the 1. Through the Defile of Kasan the river is 500-600 ft. ■wide, between immense rocky cliffs. Trajan's Roman road is on the r. bank ; and his inscription, commemo- rating the Dacian campaign, is near the end. Orsova (Kbnig von Ungarn) is a pretty Wallachian village, just above the famous Iron Gates, where the Danube plunges through a rocky canon 1^ M. long. A rly. runs from Pesth to Orsova (305 M. ; fares, 25 fl. 65 kr., 19 fl. 22 kr., 12 fl. 80 kr.), by Temesvar (32,000 inhab.). From Vienna to Bucharest by this favorite route, 29-30 hrs. (fares, 174 fr. 80 c, 131f fr, ; the Roumanian currency is like that of France). The through journey from Pesth to Constantinople (3 days; fares, food included, 108^ fl., 75^ fl.) is by rly. to Bayisch, thence by express-steamer to Rustchuk, rly. to Varna, and steamer down the Black Sea. From Gfiurgevo, opposite Rustchuk, rly. to Bucharest. Vienna to Bucharest. — Fares, 16 fl. 62 kr., 12 fl. TO kr., 9 fl. 79 kr., to Cracow (Grand; Saxe), once the capital of Poland, annexed to Austria in 1846. Here is a fine cathedral, with the tombs of the Polish kings ; and a huge mound made of earth, erected by the people in honor of Kosciuszko. Fares, 16J fl., 12 fl. 18 kr., 6| fl., to Lemberg (Hotel de France/ JD'Angleterre), the capital of Galicia, with 127,000 inhab. and a large university. Lemberg to Czernowitz, 12 fl. 64 kr., 9 fl. 47 kr., 4 fl. 92 kr.; Czernowitz to Roman, fares proportional ; Roman to Buchare * 56 fl. 20 kr., 42£ fl., 28 fl. 10 kr. Bucharest (Hotel Frascati), the capital or" the kingdom of Rcumania, " the Paris of the East," has 315,000 inhab., and is a semi- Oriental town, divided 258 &RATZ. — TRIESTE. into the Yellow, Red, Green, Black, and Blue districts, or wards. See the Palace, Theatre, War-Office, Uni- versity, the Ch. and Monastery of Radii Vod (1572), the parks, the equestrian statue of Michael III., and some of the chs. Vienna to Gratz and Trieste. Leaving Vienna at 7 a.m., one reaches Trieste in 14| hrs. (fares, 33 fl. 82 kr., 24 fl. 52 kr.), crossing the Semmering Pass by a wonderfully picturesque rly., with 30 tunnels and viaducts ; 25 M. of this line cost nearly $8,0.00,000. Semmering stat. is 2,892 ft. above the sea ; and here the rly. passes through the crowning ridge by a tunnel 1 M. long, and descends through the narrow Styrian valleys by Bruck, where the rly. to Venice diverges, and by a score of castles, to Gratz (Elephant; Daniel; Swan), the capital of Styria (100,000 inhab.), a pretty, well-situated, and growing town, where many retired Austrian officers live. The Castle is 400 ft. above Gratz, and commands a grand view. See the Hall of the Styrian Estates, the Cathedral (1446), the Imperial Mausoleum, and the Johanneum Palace, with its library aud picture-gallery. Beyond Gratz the line traverses a picturesque mt. region, full of historical interest. At Steinbriick a branch diverges to Agram, the capital of Croatia. Farther on is Laibach, the capital of Carniola, with a fine castle and cathedral ; and Adelsberg {Grand Hotel Adelsberg ; Krone), whence the famous Stalactite Caverns (f M. W.) may. be visited. The long zigzag descent to the Adriatic gives many splendid views. Trieste (Hotel de la Ville; Delorme; Aquila JVera; Central), chief Austrian port (150,000 inhab.), is an Italian city in sentiment and appearance, beautifully LINZ. — SALZBURG. 259 situated on a fortified harbor, and visited by 14,000 vessels yearly. It has a venerable cathedral, a sump- tuous Greek ch., a tall Armenian ch., a far-viewing Capuchin monastery (with castle above), a Ghetto (Jews' quarter), many palaces, and several statues. The Tergesteum is a vast commercial building, head- quarters of the Austrian Lloyds. The Piazzetta di Rlcardo commemorates the imprisonment of Richard Coeur de Lion here. Beautiful drives on the St. An- drea Corso, to Miramar, the palace of Maximilian of Mexico; and to Prosecco, of whose wine Virgil spoke. Steamers run from Trieste clown the Istrian and Dalmatian coasts to Zara, Spalatro, Ragusa, CattarQ, Pola, and Fiume ; and to the Ionian and Greek ports, and Constantinople ; also to Venice. Riy. to Venice. The Upper Da,nube, Salzburg, etc. This region is full of beauty and picturesqueness. The descent by steamer from Linz to Vienna requires 8-9 hrs. (7fl., 4fl. 30 kr.) ; ascent, 18-20 hrs. The route to N. Germany is by riy. to Linz and Munich. Ely. from Vienna in 117 M. (4£-6 hrs. ; 10 fl. 80 kr., 8 fl. 10 kr.), by Molk, with its ancient monastery ; and Bnns, strongly fortified with the ransom paid by England for Richard Cceur de Lion; and 3 M. from the great Augustinian Abbey of St. Florian ; to Linz {Erzherzog Carl ; Goldner Adler), the Capital of Upper Austria (50,000 inhab.), a pretty town, with a museum, castle, and Capuchin ch. 78| M. S. W. (fares, 7 fl. 13 kr., 5 fl. 35 kr.«, express in 3 hrs.) is &9lzlovu%(II6tel del' Europe; D'Autriche; Nelbock), one of the most beautiful towus in Germany, with an Italian beauty in its flat-roofed houses, fountains, and marble facades, and environs of far-famed picturesque- 260 THE SALZKAMMERGUT. ness. The Palace, Cathedral, and Government build* ings are in the old quarter. Here is Mozart's birthplace, his house, his statue, and a collection of his MSS. ; also the. Ch. and Cemetery of St. Peter, and the Benedic- tine Abbey, with the cellar where Haydn used to enjoy his wine. See the Museum, the Franciscan Ch., the imposing Fortress of Hohen- Salzburg, and the high and woody Monchsberg ; 250 stone steps lead to the monas- tery on the Capuzwerberg. The house of Paracelsus is near the river. The palace of Mirabell, Prince Schwart- zenberg's chateau of Aigen, and the imperial villa of Helbrunn, are near by. Diligences run 3 times daily (9fl. 73kr.) to Wild- bad Gastein (Straubinger; Gasteiner Hof; Bade- schloss; Austria; Kaiserhof; Hirsch; Weismayr; Germania) , whose warm springs attract thousands of nervous, gouty and debilitated folk. Beautiful hill-country, abounding in high waterfalls. "The Salzkammergut, or " Austrian Switzerland," in which the Government has great salt-mines, covers 250 square M. between Salzburg and Styria, and has the finest scenery in Germany, sequestered green valleys, crystal lakes, and far-viewing mts. Diligences run daily from Salzburg (34 M. ; 4fl.) to the expensive watering-place of Ischl (Kaiserin Elisabeth ; Bauer ; Post ; Victoria), near the centre of this Alpine region, with splendid villas of the Emperor and many nobles. Mud baths and whey baths here. "}rand excursions in every direction. From Vienna to Ischl, leave Salzburg line at Lambach, and go by branch rly. to Gmunden (passing near the Traun Falls), a quiet little summer- resort on the Traun See, the most beautiful of German lakes. Thence 9 M. by steamer, amid grand lake and mt. scenery, to Langbath (diligence to Ischl, 12 M.). Between Salzburg and Munich ry. traverses a pic- turesque mt. region. MUNICH. 261 Munich and the Tyrol. Mumch(Bayrischer Ilof; Russischerllof; Rhei?i- ischer Hof; Englischer Hof; Vier Jahreszeiten; Continental; de V Europe; (xrimwald; Park), the capital of Bavaria (550,000 inhab.), is on the Isar river, on a broad, lofty and barren plain. The climate is variable, and almost severe. Living is cheap, and furnished rooms may be had reasonably for a stay of 2-4 weeks. The Royal Palace, an imitation of the Pitti Palace, contains magnificent frescos from the Odyssey and the Niebelungenlied, and from the lives of Charlemagne, Barbarossa, and the Hapsburgs ; and, in the Throne-Room, Schwanthaler's grand statues of 12 Wittelsbach princes. In the adjacent Old- Residence (1600-16) is the sumptuous Royal Chapel (open Tues., 9.30-11) ; also the Treasury (Tues. and Eri., 9-11), with the Bavarian regalia, the great blue diamond, and the crowns of Bohemia (captured in 1620), and of the Emperor Henry II. and the Empress Cuni. gunda (1010). The Festsaalbau, with noble portico and statues, fronts on the Hqfgarten, around which run richly frescoed Arcades, containing the Ethnographical Museum and the Art Union. The Hof -Theatre, adorned with many fine statues, is the largest in Germany. To the east of the palace is the Bavarian Military Museum, with elaborately ornamented cannon in front. The Bavarian, National Museum in the Prinz-Regenten Street contains collections of great historical interest of industrial art, mediaeval Chris- tian art, and modern art; textiles, armor, ceramics; old MSS. and specimens of early printing. The Ludwigs-Strasse runs from the Hall of Gen- erals to Gate of Victory, a triumphal arch erected by Lewis I. to the Bavarian army, with statues and reliefs, and surmounted by a bronze Bavaria, in a chariot drawn by lions. On and near this street are the Odeon concert-hall ; Theatine Ch., with the 262 MUNICH. royal tombs ; the equestrian statue of Lewis f . ; the War Office ; the Library (10-12 daily), - — a Florentine building with fine statues and an imposing stairway, 1,000,000 vols., 25,000 MSS., and literary curios- ities, — the Codex Aureus, Alaric's breviary, the prayer- books of Diirer and Emperor Lewis, tbe oldest Niebelungenlied MS., etc. ; tbe Ludwigskirche, a splendid ch. in Italian style, with Cornelius's Last Judgment and other frescos ; and a great square, with statues, bounded by the Priests' Seminary, the Max- Joseph School and the University (1,400 students). Beyond the Gate of Victory is the Academy of Art, with figures of Castor and Pollux at the entrance. From the Max-Joseph Platz (on which are the Theatre, Royal Palace, Post Office arid Max-Joseph's Statue) the handsome Maximilian-Strasse, % M. long, runs to the Isar, by tiie Four-Seasons Hotel, the Government buildings, a long square with statues (one of the Massachusetts Count Rumford), and the old National Museum, to the handsome Maximilia- neum civil-service school, adorned with frescos and statuary. The huge brick Cathedral (1468-88) is 118 ft. high inside, aud has towers 357 ft. high, and 30 windows 72 ft. high, several monuments, and a captured Turkish flag. St. Michael's Ch. has a noble dome, and Thorwaldsen s monument to Eugene Beauharnais, vice- roy of Italy The Allerheiligenkirche is a magnificent Byzantine ch., rich in colored marbles and frescos on gold ground. St. Boniface, an imitation of a 5th- century basilica, is a very beautiful 4-aisled ch., with round arches supported by 66 monolithic columns of gray Tyrolese marble, gilded roof- timbers, royal tombs, and many frescos by Hess . The statue of Maximilian I was designed by Thorwaldsen, and made of captured Turkish cannon. Near it is ihe mediaeval Wittelsbach Palace, — The Academy of Science, in the old Jesuits College, has vast collections of fossils, minerals, coius. MUNICH. 263 dasts, etc. See also the statues of Schiller, Gluck, Orlando di Lasso, and Max Emanuel ; the Marian Column (1638) ; the Obelisk, 100 ft. high, of captured gun-metal, to 30,000 Bavarians who died in the Russian war ; the ancient and imposing Isar and Neuhauser Gates ; the great bronze-foundry, with collection of models (daily, 1-6) ; the Museum of Schwanthaler's works ; the great beer-gardens (especially the Hof- Brewery) ; and the splendid arcaded cemetery. The Old Pinakothek (open daily, except Sat., 19-3) is a vast Renaissance structure, adorned with 24 statues of famous artists, and with a long arcade frescoed by Cornelius with scenes from the history of mediaeval art. The Museum contains 1,400 paintings, including fine works of Raphael, Correggio, Titian, Holbein, Durer, and Rubens. On the ground floor, 300,000 engravings, 9,000 drawings, and cabinets of Greek and Etruscan vases (catalogue, 1 mk.). The New Pinakothek (open free Sun., Tues., Thurs., and Sat., 10-12 and 2-4), frescoed outside from Kaulbach's designs, contains 650 modern paintings (mostly of the Munich school) by Kaulbach, Overbeck, etc. The Glyptothek (free Mon., Wed. and PH., other days Imk.) is a handsome Ionic building, with 12 richly frescoed vaulted halls, enshrining Egyptian, Greek, Latin, and modern sculptures, and choice works of Canova, Thorwaldsen, Dannecker, etc. Opposite is the Corinthian Exhibition Building, where new Munich pictures are exhibited and sold every summer ; and N. W. is the famous Stained-Glass Institution. The Propylaea Gate in the Konigz-Platz is a splendid copy of the gateway to the Acropolis at Athens, built in 1862, and adorned with sculptures. To the west of this gate is the Schark Gallery, containing excellent collection of the works of modern German authors. 264 OBER-AMMERGAU. — INNSBRUCK. The English Garden, laid out by Count Rumforc^ begins at the Royal Palace, and runs N.4M. You can drive through it to the Observatory, 1| M. 1% M. outside the Carlsthor is the Hall of Fame, a Doric colonnade containing busts of 80 national celebrities. Here stands the bronze Statue of Bavaria, 56 ft. high. Ascend into its head, whence there is a fine view. The royal chateau and deer-park Nymphenburg and the Porcelain factory are 3 M. W. of Munich. The Lake of Starnberg (15 M. ; rly. in 1 hr.) 12± X 3 M. in area, has fine rat. views, villas of wealthy Munichers, and several chateaux. Persons spending a day in Munich can obtain a good mid-day lunch, at Schleich's, 8 Brienner-Strasse. Operaa at Hof und NationaL-Theatre (prices low), Sun., Mon., Thurs. and Fri., except in July (open, as usual in Ger- many, at 6.30 or 7). Good classical music on Sun. at St. Michael's, the Court church. To reach Ober-Ammergau take train to Mumau, 11| M., whence carriage, passing the ancient abbey of ffital and up the Ammerthal. This is a pleasant summer-journey among Bavarian mts. and lakes, and into the country of the Passion Play. See local guides. Through the Tyrol to Italy. — From Munich to Verona, 286 M. (20-24 hrs. ; fares, 24 mk. 92 pf., 18 mk., 11 mk. 91 pf.; to Innsbruck, 11 mk. 60 pf., 8 mk. 5 pf., 5^mk.). The rly. leads by Rosenheim to Kufstein (Post Hotel), an ancient fortress command- ing the Tyrolese frontier ; and up the beautiful valley of the Inn ; by busy and picturesque old Sclrwaz, among rich iron and copper mines ; and Hall, whose ch. has a picture by Diirer. Innsbruck (Hotel de V Europe; Tirol; Stadt Munchen), the capital of the Tyrol (24,000 inh.), is beautifully situated in tte midst of nits.. 6-8,000 ft THE TYROL. 265 high, whose peaks seem to overhang its streets. On the wooden bridge which gives name to the town, Hofer's Tyrolese riflemen thrice defeated Napoleon's Bavarians in the War of Independence (1809). Hofer, the innkeeper who led the Tyrol in arms against the French for 14 years, and was shot by Napoleon at Mantua, now lies in the Silver Chapel of Innsbruck's Franciscan Ch., under a splendid monument. In the same ch. is the monument (1513-83) of the Emperor Maximilian I., a bronze statue kneeling on a sarcopha- gus, and surrounded by 28 royal bronze statues and 24 exquisite historical reliefs, in marble (which the sac- ristan uncovers and explains). Queen Christina of Sweden abjured Protestantism in this ch. in 1654. See also the Palace, built by Maria Theresa ; the Golden Roof; the University ; the Triumphal Arch ; the in- teresting museum and picture-gallery; the ancient Capuchin Monastery ; the wealthy Abbey of Wilteni and the fine old castle of Ambras (13th century). The rly. ascends the Lill valley, and crosses trie Brenner Pass, 4,588 ft. high, the water-shed between the Adriatic and Black Seas. At the fortress of Franzensfeste trains stop for meals. From Sterzing the glaciers of the Stubbaythal are visible. Then comes semi-Italian Brixen, an ancient ecclesiastical capital, with many chs. and cloisters ; Bozen {Hotel Victoria ; Kaiserkrone), frequented by invalids, and in one of the finest Tyrolese glens, with grand excursions to Meran, etc. ; mountain-girdled Trent (Eitropa) , once an Etrus- can town, known to Strabo and Ptolemy, and now rich in old towers, ruined castles, marble palaces, a grand 13th-century cathedral, and the Ch. of Sta. Maria Maggiore, where the celebrated Council of Trent held its sessions, 1545-63 ; and Roveredo, on the Adige. Beyond, the line runs through a region familiar to Dante, entering Italy beyond Ala. 266 ULM. — STUTTGART. Switzerland may be reached directly from Munich, by rly. to Lindau, whence boat across Lake Constance to Horn unshorn, and rly. to Zurich (lares, to Lindau, 17 mks. 70 pf., llf mks., 7 mks' 55 pf. ; to Zurich, 31f mks., 22 mks. 45 pf.). We rec- ommend the tourist, however, to go on from Munich to Augs- burg and Stuttgart, with a de'tour to Nuremberg, Baireuth, etc. ; and from Nuremberg or "Wiirzburg to Heidelberg. Augsburg, Stuttgart, Nuremberg, Heidelberg. Rly. in ih-2 hrs. from Munich to Augsburg {Bai- erischerhof; Kaiserhof; Drei Mohren, a very ancient hotel, in which Charles V. was entertained), once, a free imperial town of vast wealth, and the centre or trade between Germany and the Levant, now has 76,000 inhab. There remain many picturesque old houses, frescoed outside; the ancient Palace in which the Augsburg Confession was given ; the venerable chs. of St. Anna and St. Ulrich ; the Rathham (1616-20), with its. Golden Hall ; the rambling Gothic Cathedral (995), with handsome cloisters ; and the frescoed Fug- gerhaus, the home of the richest merchants of 16th- century Europe. See also the fountains, the Arsenal, the Museum, and the gallery of Suabian pictures. It is 2-3 hrs. (6 fl. 80 kr., 4 fi. 55 kr., 2 ft. 90 kr.) to Uim (Hotel Bahnhof, Munster, Goldener Lowe, Baumstark), a fortress of Wurtemburg (37.000 inh.), on the Danube. The Gothic Cathedral ( 1377) has im- mense organ, finely carved oaken stalls, and a nave 137 ft. high. Grand view of the Alps from the tower (528 ft. high). Rly. to Lake Constance in 4-5 hrs, Rly. from Ulra across Wiirtemberg (2 J— 4 hrs.) to Stuttgart (Marquardt; Royal; Silber; Dierlamm) capital of Wiirtemburg (250,000 inhab.), beautifully CANNSTADT. — NUREMBERG. 267 aituated among the hills and vineyards, and the home of a large Anglo-American colony. The Konigsbau (Royal Palace) has an Ionic colonnade and Corinthian porticos. Opposite, across the Schloss-Platz, is the new Palace (1746-1807), containing very fine sculp- tures (open daily, 9-6). Near by are the Theatre and; the Old Palace (1553-70); also the Stiftskirche (1436-95), with statues of 11 Counts of Wiirtemberg; Thorwaldsen's statue of Schiller; and various na- tional buildings. The Royal Library (open daily, ex» cept Sat. and Sun.) contains 500.000 vols, and 3,800 MSS. ; and the Museum of Art (open daily except Mon.) has a collection of pictures and statuary. The Konigs-Strasse and Neckar-Strasse are the chief streets. There are small but interesting museums, and good schools. The Museum of Bad Taste is well wortk a visit. Charming views from the Hassenberg, UhlandshOhe, and Schillersh5he. Visit Stadt-Garten. The Anlagen park, decorated with statues, extends over 2 M., to Cannstadt ( Vier Jahreszeiten ; Bahru hof; Bar), on the Neckar, with warm saline and cha- lybeate springs, much frequented by invalids. See the Royal Villa, the Rosenstein, and other villas on the heights ; also the Kursaal and the Wilhelma. The grave of Freiligrath is here. There are several other notable excursions to be made from Stuttgart. From Augsburg (fares, 12 mks. 60 pf., 9 mks., 5§ inks.), or from Stuttgart, via Crailsheim and Ansback CL9 mks. 70 kr., 13 mks. 85 kr.), go to Nuremberg {Wiltelsbach ; Victoria; Goldener Adler ; Wurtembergerhof ; Grand), a delightful old town (140,000 inhabitants), famous for its quaint mediaeval houses, oriel windows, and toy factories, and the centre of trade between North and South Germany. At one time there flourished here Veit Stoss, Vischer, and Krafft, the carvers; the teacher and disciples of Albert Diirer, and the great 268 NUREMBERG. master himself; and Hans Sachs, the cobbler-poee. The two latter are buried in St. John's Cemetery ; their houses are religiously kept; ttauch's statue of Diirer stands in the Milk Market, and Haus Sachs's monu- ment is in the Spital-Platz. The lofty wall which encircles Nuremberg has 75 towers of masonry, the 4 largest of which were built by Unger. Take a walk around these walls, and also note the singular old bridges over the Pegnitz. Peter Vischer is buried at St. Rochus, and his house is preserved. The finest c'hfj is St. Lawrence, a red-sandstone structure (1287-1477), with a splendid W. portal and rose-window, Kratft's wonderful ciborium, 66ft. high, and Yeit Stoss's wood carvings. See fountains outside. In the Goose Mar- ket is the ancient bronze fountain-figure of the Little Goose Man. The Frauenkirche has splendid facade, and rich old glass and works of art inside. Opposite is a tall Gothic column (1385-96), surrounded with statues of heroes. St. Selaldus, a 13th-century Gothic basilica, contains rare old paintings, and the famous Shrine of St. Sebaldus, "the most exquisite gem of German art," whose multitude of statues and carvings were made by Vischer and his sons (1506-19) Op- posite is St. Maurice, now a gallery containing many old German paintings. St. Egidius (1140) has an altar-piece by Van Dyck. The Germanic Museum, in an old Carthusian convent (beautiful cloisters), has a fresco by Kaulbach, and many mediaeval relics and pictures. In the old Dominican convent is the Maxi- milian collection of mediaeval antiquities; also, the Town Library (open daily, 9-12, 3-6), with 70,000 vols, and 2.000 MSS. The Burg is a Gothic castle on a rock to the N., built in 10i4, and enlarged by Barbarossa in 1158, destroyed in 1420, and now par- tially restored. It is rich in ponderous towers, quaint chapels and antique halls. In main tower (adm. 20 EATISBON.-WALHALLA.-KELHEIM. 269 pf.) is a torture chamber, the chief instrument in which is an "Iron Virgin." Beautiful view from here over town and country. The Rathhaus contains many pictures. See also the new law-courts and the Schone Brunnen. Ratisbon (Maximilian; Gruner Kranz; National; Karmelitenbrau), called in German Regensburg, a very ancient free town, where the Imperial Diet was held from 1663 to 1808, is now Bavarian. There are many mediaeval houses, with armorial bearings still upon them, and with towers of defence (especially in Ambas- sadors'-St.). The Cathedral (1275) has a rich facade and porch, lofty towers, and a very symmetrical nave, 129 ft. high ; also, fine monuments by Canova and Vischer, an altar of silver, and cloisters. The 12th- century Benedictine Ch. of St. James has strange old sculptures ; and the Benedictine Monastery of St. Em- meran, founded in 652, and enriched by Charlemagne, < has since 1812 been the palace of the Princes of Thurn and Taxis. The 14th-century Rathhaus contains many implements of torture. 7 M. distant (steamboat or tramway), on a hill over the Danube, is the Walhalla, built 1830-42 (at a cost of $3,400,000) by King Lewis as a Temple of Tame. It resembles the Athenian Parthenon, and is of huge granite blocks, surrounded with 52 Doric columns, and adorned in the pediments with Schwan- thaler's sculptures of the Battles of Leipsic and Armin- ius. The roof is of iron and copper. The interior hall, 180 X 50 ft., decorated with friezes, contains 6 Victory statues by Hauch,and 101 busts of illustrious Germans. View of Bavarian Forest and Alps. Kelheim, up the Danube, has the huge cupula! Hall of Liberation, built by King Lewis, 1842-63, to commemorate the Battle of Leipsic. It is lined with 270 BAMBERG. - BAIREUTH. - HEIDELBERG. marble, and contains 34 Victory statues, of Carrara marble; while outside are 18 colossal statues. u Wurzburg (Bussischer Hof) has a vast Royal Palace, a CathedraC (1189-1240), the Neumiinster Ch. (with tomb of Walther von der Vogelweide), the handsome Mariencapelle, and a university. Riy. (7 inks. 60 kr. 9 5 mks. 5 kr., 3 mks. 20 kr.) to Baireuth, by Bamberg {Bamberger Hof), a hill-town, with a splen- did 12th-century Romanesque Cathedral, rich in monu- ments and relics. The Lyceum, contains 2,600 MSS. In the Palace, Napoleon I. declared war against Prussia The rly. runs around the Pranconian Switzerland to Baireuth {Reichsadler ; Sonne ; Anker), the seat of Wagner's great theatre, and of an old opera house. Jean Paul Richter's house, statue, and tomb are here. See Wagner's house and grave, the Palaces, the war monument of 1870-71, and the ducal chateaux of the Eremitage and the Fantaisie (each 3 M. out). Ex- cursions into the Fichtelgebirge. Prom Wurzburg it is 5-7 hrs. (fares, 12 mks. 80 pf., 8| mks., 5 mks. 45 pf.) to Heidelberg {Hotel de V Europe ; Grand; Schrleder; Victoria, near stat. In town, Prms Carl; Perkeo ; Adler. On hill, Schlo ss and Bellevue), renowned for its history, its learned University, and its beautiful situation, where the mo untainous Neckar valley enters the great Rhine plain. The University (founded 1386) has valuable museums, and a library of 400,000 vols. The buildings are homely. The Castle, 330 ft. above the Neckar, was founded in 1195 and added to by subsequent electors and kings. In 1689 the French Gen. Melac, forced to retreat thence, burned and blew up the castle ; and the destruction was completed by lightning in 1764. It is the grandest ruin in Germany. See the splendid Renaissance Otto-Heinrichs building (1556) ; JPrie- SPIRES. — WORMS. 271 Uriahs building (1601), rich in statues, and containing the great Tun (40,000 gallons) ; and other palaces, towers, and gardens. Erom the Konigsstuhl, 905 ft. above the castle (1 hr. by road), grand view of the Rhine and Neckar valleys, the Black Eorest, Taunus a and Odenwald, and out to Strasbourg Cathedral. Spires, Worms, Baden, Strasbourg. It is a short ride., down the Neckar valley, to Mannheim (Deutscher Hof; Pfalzer Hof; Lehri), a town of 165,000 mhab. , on the Rhine, very regularly laid out, and adorned with a great palace and picture- gallery and several statues. Erne rly.-bridge across the Rhine, to Ludwigshcwen. 1 hr. by rly. to the S. is Spires {Rheinischer Hof ; Wittelsbacher Hof), the capital of the Bavarian Palatinate (19,000 inhab.). The vast and imposing Romanesque Cathedral (open 9-11, 2-6) was founded in 1030, and in 1146 St. Bernhard preached the Crusade in it. 9 German em- perors and 3 empresses were buried here. See new iagade and Emperor's Hall; the magnificent modern frescos; and the imperial statues by Schwan thaler. A handsome Memorial Church has recently been erected here to commemorate the protests uttered against the decree of the diet of Speyer in 1529, whence came the designation " Protestant." Worms {Alter Kaiser; Hartmann) % § hr. N. of Ludwigshaven, successively capital of Burgundian and Eranconian kings, and of Charlemagne, is now a de. caclent Hessian town. The splendid Romanesque Ca- thedral (1110) has 4 towers and 2 domes, and a stately interior, 357 ft. long. On the square occurred events sung of in the Niebelungeulied ; and on one side is the Renaissance HeiVsche Bans, on the site of the palace where Luther defended his doctrines before Charles Y. 272 DARMSTADT. — CARLSRUHE. — BADENc and the Diet of Worms (1521). Luther s Monument (built 1859-68) consists of his colossal statue, around and below which are statues of 6 Reformers, 2 Protes- tant princes, and 3 German cities. It is a grand work. Darmstadt (Traube ; Britannia), the hand- some capital of Hesse (64,000 inhab.), has in its Palace a library of 600,000 vols., and a noble gallery of 700 paintings (open daily). In the palace on Anna-Strasse is the celebrated Meyer Madonna, by Holbein (1 ink.). From Heidelberg,2 hrs. (5mks. 5pf., 3mks. 60pf.) to Carlsruhe (Gruner JSof; Hotel Grosse), the capital of Baden (90,000 inhab.), with handsome modern buildings, squares, and monuments. The streets radiate like fan-sticks from the handsome Palace and park. The Romanesque Hall of Art contains 6-700 pictures, and other collections. From hand- some rly. stat. 1 hr. (3 mks. 40 pf., 2 mks. 35 pf.- change cars at Oos) to Baden-Baden (Victoria; Badischer; Englischerj Messmer; Darmstadt), in a glen amitl the foothills of the Black Forest. 40,000 foreigners come here yearly, to indulge in fashionable lounging, to enjoy the mild climate and beautiful environs, and to drink the min- eral waters. Yast and magnificent Trink-Halle, Con- versation-House, and Bath-House. The lofty New •Castle (1 mk.), built 1479-1519, is the summer home of the Grand Duke. Band music in the town several times daily. Good theatre. Prices at Baden generally high. Excursions thence into the Black Forest. Rly. S. to Kehl, where the Rhine is crossed to Strasbourg (Maison Rouge ; Hotel de la Ville de (Paris; Pfeiffer; National), the capital of Al- sace-Lorraine (140,000 inn.), terribly bombarded in the war of 1870-71. The grand Cathedral, built 1015- 1439, has magnificent facade by Erwin von Steinbach STRASBOURG. — FREIBURG. 273 (1318), and a spire 465 ft. high (ascent, l|mk.), whence an extensive view is gained, even to the Jura Mts. The interior, 323 ft. long and 99 ft. high, with its 15th-century stained windows, slender and richly carved pillars, and Erwin's tomb and pillar, is impressive. The celebrated Astronomical Clock is in the S. transept. The' bombardment of 1870, which destroyed the Library, Theatre, Picture Gallery, etc., spared the Cathedral. The new Uni- versity, now specially favored by Germany, is at the Fischer Gate. The new Library already has 800,- 000 vols. In St. Thomas Gh. (10 pf.) is a vast marble monument to Marshal Saxe, which it took 20 year© to make. In the Place Gutenberg is a statue of Gut- enberg. The New Temple has been rebuilt magnifi- cently. Many statues on the squares. Strasbourg is an important strategic point, and vast fortifica- tions have recently been erected by the Germans. From Strasbourg go to Basle (fares, Hi m ks., 7 mks. 68 pf., 4 mks. 90 pf.) along the Black Forest. Freiburg {Zahringer ; Victoria ; Europe) is a pretty forest-town of 54,000 inhab., and the capital of the Breisgau. It has suffered much in many wars. The Cathedral is a symmetrical red-sandstone Gothic ch. (1122-1236), with a remarkable tower, 397 ft. high ; a rich portal, with statuary ; and an inte- rior (342ft. X 102ft. and 85ft. high) lighted firm five stained windows, and containing many old monu- ments, paintings, etc. (best time to visit, 10.30-12 ; fee at choir, 50 pf . ; to tower, 60 pf .). The Kavfhaus, on the S., is a handsome 15th-century building. The new Victory Monument chiefly honors Gen. von Werder. See the quaint fountains, the streams of pure water in the streets, and the pretty pebble pave- ments. Climb the Bchlossberg. Grand view over Black Forest, Vosges, and Rhineland. From Freiberg to Basle, 2 hrs.; 5| mks., 4 inks, 274 BASLE. SWITZERLAND. T^OR direct routes from Paris, see page 199. Swiss ■*■ money is in francs, like French. The Swiss season is Aug. in the high Alps, July 15 to Sept. 15 elsewhere. Return and excursion tickets on all Swiss liys. Pensions (large summer boarding-houses) at all chief resorts, $.80-$2.00 a day. Basle, Zurich, Lake Constance. Basle (Trois Hois; Metropole; Bauer: Scliweizer- liof; Victoria; Eider), a town of 125,000 inhab., on Rhine, has rlys. in every direction. There are many handsome streets, and pleasant parks and promenades. The Cathedral, built by Henry II. in 1010-19, and re- stored after destructions by fire and earthquake, is an imposing Gothic building of red sandstone, now Protestant (Wed., 2-4, free; other times -|fr.) Ancient statuary on facades ; 2 lofty towers, built in 1500. 1$ rich and beautiful interior see the roodloft (1381) stained windows; Chapel of St. Nicholas; font (1465): pulpit (1486); tombs of Erasmus and of Empress Anna; sculptures on N. portal and around choir. Very fine cloisters (1362-1487), leading to the Pfalz terrace, Historical Museum (Sun. and Wed. free; closed on Monday; other days £ fr.) has fragments of the 15th century fresco of The Dance of Death. The Museum (|fr„ ; Sun. and Wed. free), has many historic and scientific curiosities, and the largest Swiss picture-gallery, including many choice Holbeins (The Passion, etc.) and works of modern Germans. Also University Library (200,000 vols.) and a great hall. The Mission House, for education of missionaries, is It ( isa 'i tieF ,S& ■ ■ pi II ist [IB aa Co ,| e^ ood art inn SCHAFFHAUSEN. 275 (3 of the powerful local theological influences, and ] > an interesting museum (open daily). See the Town .ill (1508); the Spahlen Gale (1400); the quaint mtains; and St. Elizabeth 1 \s Church, with view : m tower. Basle to Lucerne, direct, 55J M. ; fares, 9 fr. 40 c, Ir. 60c, 4 fr. 40c. It is better, however, to go via I ) Falls of the Rhine and Lake Constance," bv rly. up i i Rhine. From Basle it is 59 M. (9 J fr., 6 fr. 30 c, r. 5c.) to Schaffhausen (National ; Mutter; Riese) a pic- I'esque town, with quaint, old frescoed houses; a j 11 with 6 gates, and old towers; a massive castle 564); and a Romanesque Cathedral (1101). The bell ilcribed Vivos voco, mortuos plango, fulgurafrango, t in 1486, is in room near cloisters. The Falls of \z Rhine may be visited hence (carriage, 2 fr. 40 c, (tram) . They are near Neuhausen stat. (Schweizer- 1 ?, with view of Alps and Falls; Bellevue). Here Rhine, 380-400 ft. wide, descends 100 ft., in n„Mds, whirlpools and 3 falls, over limestone ledges. ii'is the largest fall in Europe, and should be seen moonlight, or under its morning or late-afternoon ibows. You may ascend the rock which divides falls (3 fr.); or view them from Laufen castle fr.), the best point, where the Fischetz platform i)uld be visited. The falls are illuminated summer tbnings by colored lights, for which a small charge nade in the hotel bill. Constance (Insel ; Ilecht), a decadent town of S!000 inhab. The Cathedral (1502) has notable siined glass, bas-reliefs, cloisters, choir-stalls, and %i stone on which John Huss is reported to have od when sentenced. W. of the town is a stone .rking where Huss and Jerome of Prague were rned alive (1415-16). In the frescoed Kaufhans fr.) the Council of Constance met (1414-18). See 276 ZURICH. Town Hall (1593), St. Stephen's Ch., and former Dominican monastery, on an island, now converted into the Insel Hotel; with Romanesque cloisters. Ziirich (Hotel Baurau Lac; Bellevue; National)., on the swift green river Limmat, at the foot of the beautiful Lake Zurich. Remarkable view (espe- cially by moonlight) from bridge, of villages, villas, embowered spires, and distant Alps. Ziirich is famous for learned schools, beautiful environs, and conclaves of political exiles. See the Ro- manesque Cathedral (12th century), with fine cloisters and statue of Charlemagne; Town Hall; the handsome Quai-Bruclce (1883) ; Hohe Promenade, with fine view; Library, with rare MSS. ; Polytech- nic School, splendid view from terrace ; Art Building, St. Augustine's Ch.; St. Peter s Ch., where Lavater preached 23 years; Arsenal, with Tell's bow, Zwing- lius's battle-axe, etc. ; and Botanic Gardens, with busts of de Candolle and other botanists. In the Platz Promenade, in the triangle between the Sihl and Limmat rivers, is the Swiss National Museum (open daily ex. Mon. ; free in afternoon, i fr. in morning). This contains a miscellaneous colj lection of objects illustrating Swiss history, art, and industrial progress; the collection of stained glass is particularly fine. The Tonhalle, on the lake w. of the Quai-Briicke, has good restaurant; concert here every evening. Lake Constance (in German the Boden-See, in Latin Lacus Brigantinus) is very pretty in summer, but has not the beauty of the other Swiss lakes. It is 42x8 M. in area, and 158^ M. aronnd; very deep; with green water, abounding in trout ; flat, or undu- lating shores ; and distant views of the Alps of Vorarlj berg and Appenzell. In 4 centuries it has frozen ovet but 1 5 times. It lies between Baden, Austria, Bavariaj Wtirtemberg, and Switzerland. There is an immense traffic between the lake-ports. THE SPLUGEN PASS. 277' The Uetliberg, 2,864 ft. high, 6 M. S. W. of Zii- rich, is ascended by a rly. with a gradient in some- places of 7 in 100 ft. (3 fr. 50 c, 2 fr. ; return tickets, 5 fr., 3 fr.). The view includes Zurich and its lake, the Li in mat Valley, the Alps from the Sentis to the Jung, frau, the Righi, Pilatus, the Juras, A r osges, and Black- Forest peaks. Magnificent views from road up. The Spliigen Pass. Ziirich (or Rohrschach) is a good point from which to visit the Spliigen Pass. Very pleasant trip to its summit, although it is not the best route into Italy. Go by steamer (be careful to start from the right pier;. 2-2| hrs. ; fares, 2 fr. 20 c, 1 fr. 40 c.) up the lovely Lake of Ziirich, 25 1 X %\ M. in area, with transpar- ent bluish-green water reflecting the chain of happy shore-villages and the snowy Alps of Schwyz and Gla- rus, to Rapperschwyl {Hotel du Lac ; Schwan), which has the Lindenhof, Capuchin monastery, deer-park^ and ancient castle, containing the Polish National Mu» seum. Rly. from Zurich to Rapperschwyl, 22-£ M. ; fares, 4 fr. 70 c, 2 fr. 20 c. ; to Coire, 4-5 hrs. ; fares, 12 fr. 30 c, 8 fr. 90 c. The rly. follows Lake Ziirich from Rapperschwyl to Schmerikon ; ascends the Linth ,valley : runs along the shore of the magnificent Lake of Wallenstadt for 12 M. ; enters upper Rhine val- ley ; and runs S., through grand scenery, to Ragatz (Quellenhqf and Raga-tz, both united with the Casino; Schiveizerhof; Tamina; Bristol) favorite summer-resort at the mouth of the wonderful Tamina gorge, 2^ M. up which are the hot saline baths of Pfiijfers, amid very impressive rocky scenery, and cliffs 6-700 ft. High. A cable tramcar runs to the springs every ■£ hr., i round trip If r. 30c. These waters have been prized for 278 COIRE. 800 years. They are conducted to the baths at Ragat^ The philosopher Schelling is buried at Ragatz. The rly. ascends the Rhine valley, by the 4th century Roman tower of May en f eld, and many pretty villages, vineyards, and castles, to Coire (Stei'nbocTc; Lukmanier), the capital of the Canton of the Grisons (12,000 inhab.), surrounded with picturesque walls and Roman towers, and nest- ling under the Mitt erib erg. The Cathedral (12th cen- tury) contains a fine High Altar of carved wood, dating from 1490, and rare Roman antiquities. The Episcopal Palace is very ancient (bishopric founded in 4th century). Grand views from the Rosenhugel and other hills. The Splugen Pass is reached twice daily by rly. from Coire to Thusis (1 hr. ; 17 M. ; 5 fr. 60 c, 4 fr. 20 c), thence by diligence (4 hrs. ; 16 M. ; 6 fr. 05 c. ; coupe, 7 fr. 90 c). Thusis ( Via Mala; Post Hotel) is a centre of grand excursions. Many tourists walk from here up through the Via Mala, a tremendous gorge between calcareous cliffs 1,600 feet high, with the Rhine roaring heavily below. Thousands of lives have been lost by avalanches and land-slips in this " Bad Way." The safe new road, with its tunnels and bridges, was built in 1822. A stone dropped from Second Bridge (247 ft. high ; here the scenery is grandest) makes a noise like a cannon. The verdant farms of the Valley of Schams open out above ; and the road passes Zillis, with its venerable ch. ; Andeer, an old Romansch village ; traverses the wild Roffha Ravine, 3 M. long, by the Rhine cascades ; comes into view of the Einshorn and Pizzo Uccello peaks ; and reaches Splugen {Hotel Bodenhaus), where the diligences all stop for dinner. Diligences twice daily from Splugen to Chiayenna (10 fr., coupe 12 fr.) ; rly. thence to Colico (3 fr., 2^ fr. # BERNAKDINO PASS. 279 1-J- fr. It is about 7 M. from Splugen to the top of the pass, 6,945 ft. high, the Italian frontier line, with Surettahomer (9,925 ft.) on one side, and Schnee- horn (10, 748 ft. ; Milan and Suabia are visible from it) on the other. The road descends by leagues of zigzags and galleries, ravines and cascades, to the vineyards and chestnut fields of Chiavenna (Con-- radi), with its ruined castle and fine old ch. ; thence rly. down a mountain-girdled valley by Riva to* Colico, on Lake Como. By the Bernardino Pass, diligences run daily to Mesocco (lOfr. 25), thence by electric ry. to Bellin- zona (5f .5.) The road ascends the desolate Rheinwald valley 8-9 M. to the top of the pass (6,768 ft. high), surrounded by Alps and glaciers ; and thence de- scends by long zigzags, to San Bernardino,, Mesocco, Cama, Roveredo and other charming Italian-Swiss villages, amid very grand scenery,. From Bellinzona, rly. 14 M. to Locarno (f hr. ; 2 fr„ 30 c, 1 fr. 60 c, 1 fr. 15 c), whence rly. to Lake Como and Milan. The Engadine is a dry, cold, and silent valley's, 3,300 to 5,800 ft. high, 57 M. long, and 1 M. wide,, between the Engadine and Bernina Alps and glaciers. It is divided into the Upper Engadine and the Lower Engadine; the former extends 24 M. from the Malaja Pass to Punt Ota, a bridge crossing a small brook emptying into the Inn River ; the latter, about 33 M. long, extends from Punt Ota to Martinsbruck on the Tyrolese frontier. The Upper Engadine, near St. Moritz, is much frequented, especially by English and Americans, and for those who need a cool, bracing air it is a wonderful health resort, being particularly adapted to the outdoor treatment of consumption. From Coire the Albula railway (59£ M. ; 4 hrs. j 23 fr. 25, 15 fr. 50) runs through picturesque moun- tain scenery, over numerous viaducts, and through. 41 tunnels, one of them 4f M. in length, to 280 PONTRESINA - LUCERNE St. Moritz {Kulm ; Belvedere; Palace; Grand; JSchweizerhof), the highest settlement in the valley (6,000 ft.), a village of 2,000 inhabitants. Here is buried the founder of the Children's Aid Society of NewYork, Mr. Charles Loring # Brace. There are grand mountain views from several points in the villnge. 'Three miles distant (electric tram, fare 20c.) are the Biths of St. Moritz {Neues Stahlbad; Victoria; Bellevue; Engadinerhof; Kurhaus; Du Lac), fam- ous for chalybeate springs, impregnated with carbonic _acid and alkaline salts. Alps and glaciers surround the place, and the air is invigorating to invalids. Pontresina (Roseg; Weisses Kreuz; Languard), 7 M. from St. Moritz, is the starting-point for excur/ sions in the Bernina chain. The season is short, prices high, and society good. The magnificent Bernina Pass, 7,657 ft. high, is crossed by daily dili^enc* s from Samaden, in 5£ hrs. {9 fr. 89) via Pontresina, to Poschiavo, whence elec- tric tram to Tirano; then rly. to Colico, on Lake Como (3 hr. ; 22 fr. 75, 1 / f r. 40). Lucerne, the Rigi, the St. Gothard Route Rly. from Basle (3£ hrs. ; fares, 9 fr. 40 c, 6 fr. 60 c, 4 fr. *70 c); or from Zurich, by Zug (6i- fr., 4fr. 55c, Si fr.); or from Berne (11 fr., 7i fr., 5 fr. 30 c); to Lucerne (Schweizerhof; Beaurivage; National; Swan and Rigi; de V Europe; Tivoli; Lnzernerhof; Jtebstock; Villa Maria; Schiller; Victoria; du Lac; Sauvage; Engel), beautifully situated at the outlet of the most lovelv lake in Switzerland, between the Pilatus and Rigi, and facing the Alps of Un and Engelberg. The Town Hall has ancient carvings; and in the Stiftskirche see grand organ, carvings, stained glass. Thorwaldsen's Lion of Lucerne is a statue of a dying lion, 28ft. long, cut in the face of a cliff, and commemorating 800 soldiers of the Swiss THE RIGI. — LAKE OP LUCERNE. 281 Guard, who died in defence of the Tuileries in 1792. Capell Bridge, built 1303, over river Re-uss, has 154 ©Id paintings on its roof, and ends at St. Peter's Chapel (12 century). The Water Tower ; according to tradition, was once a light-house (lucerna), and gave name to the town. It now contains the archives. The Muhlen Bridge is ornamented with 30 singular pictures of the Dance of Death. See also Museum and Library (80,000 vols.) ; Stauffer's Alpine animals (1 fr.); the Glacier Garden (1 fr.) ; and the Jesuit ch. The Schweizerhof Quay is a beautiful promenade with many trees, between the palatial hotels and the lake. The Rigi is a group of mts., 30-40 M. around, the chief peak, the Kulm, being 5,905 ft. high (4,470 ft. above the lake), and nearly surrounded by the lakes of Lucerne, Zug, and Lowerz. The Kulm is ascended by a mt. rly., like that on Mt. Washington, and has several hotels (Rigi- Kulm ; Sonne; Rigi- Staff el; Rigi- Kaltbad), whose landlords have been compelled by criticism to lower their prices and improve their man- ners. Engage rooms in advance in July or Aug. ; for then hundreds come up here to spend the night and see the sunrise. Take plenty of warm wraps. It is but 2£ hrs. from Lucerne to the top, by steamer to Vitznau, and mt. rly. thence (4| M. ; 7 fr.), Circular ticket, good 3 days, from Zurich by Zug to the Rigi- Kulm, down by rly. and steamer to Lucerne, and back to Zurich, costs 22 fr. 40 c, 19| fr., 16 fr. 70 c. From the crest you see a line of snowy Alps, 120 M. long, the Sentis, Bernese range, Wetterhorn, Jungfrau, etc. ; elsewhere, the Juras, V'osges, Suabian Mts., Black Forest ; many a famous Swiss town ; and 13 lakes. The Rigi-Scheidegg (Kurhaus), command- ing a very noble view, is reached by branch rly. From Vitznau go by steamer (2 hrs. ; 2 f r. 20 c. , 1 f r. 10 c.) to Fliielen, up the superb Lake of Lucerne ( Viej*waldstdtter-See, or Lake of the Four Forest Can' 282 ALTORF. — AMSTEG. tons), the grandest in Europe, 1,433 ft. high, 25 M. Jong, and 1-4 M. wide. It forms an irregular cross, between vast mts. From the summer hotels at the numerous villages — Beckenried, Gersan, Brunnen, etc. — fine nit. excursions may be made. Just beyond Seelisberg are the sacred springs of the Rutli, on whose meadow Eiirst, Erni, and Stauffacher founded the Swiss liberties, in 1307. Beyond is Tell's Platte, with its romantic chapel, on the ledge where Tell leaped ashore from Gessler's boat. Marvellous scenery thence -to the head of the lake. Superb views are had from several pom? $ near the city. The finest is from the Sonnenherg (20 min. by electric car and inclined rly. ; round trip 3 fr.) There is a golf course here near the hotel. A fine view of the mountains, the lake, and the town is also had from Criltsch, an elevation to the west, reached by tram in 15 min. (return ticket 90 c). Another point where there is a good view is the Drei Linden, 20 min. by carriage along a good road. Fluelen {Adler ; Kreuz; Tell) is the port of XJri. 2 M. beyond is Altorf {Tell; Sehlussel / Ldice), Uri's capital, in a mountain-walled valley, and the reputed scene of Tell's shooting the apple. The site is marked by a fountain. Colossal statue of Tell near by. His birthplace, near Burglen, is occupied by a frescoed chapel. 9 M. beyond Altorf is Anisteg {Stem; Kreuz ; Hirscli), where the Pass begins. This was the chief route o#er the Alps until 1800. The road was built 1820-32. The scenery here is grander than on any other pass. The Lucerne-Milan rly. runs under the St. Gothard, in a tunnel nearly 9 M. long, built 1872-82, at a cost of over $10,000,000. Beyond Amsteg, the road ascends the narrow Reu'ss valley, with the huge Bristenstock on the 1. ; over the ANDERMATT. - FURCA PASS. 283 fofty Pfaffensprung bge. ; by Wasen {Hotel des Alpes} and Wattingen, near Rohrbach fall and the Teufel- \>tein; GescJienen, at the mouth of the tunnel; up steep ascents, and over the Devil' 's Bridge, where French, Austrians, and Russians fought in 1799 ; through the Timer Loch tunnel, into Urseren valley; and up to Andermatt (Bellevue; du Tourist e; St. Gothard; Oheralp; Krone), among high and aridmts. crowned With snow. See chapel, and mineral collections. 9 M. distant is the summit of the St. Gothard Pass (6,936 ft. high), whence road descends steeply by the Hospice* to Airolo and Biasca, whence rly. to Milan. It is better to return from the top of the Pass, spend the night at Andermatt, and go over the Furca and Grimsel Passes to Interlaken. From Andermatt diligences run in 5-6 hrs. (21 M. ; S.|-fr. ; coupe, 10 fr. 20 c), through Hospenthal (Mey- irhof ; Lowe), 2£ M. out; and by a zigzag route up the precipices, amid wonderful scenery, to the top of the Furca Pass (Hotel de la Furca), 7,992 ft. high; past the grand and lofty Galenstock and Farkahorn; and thence to the Rhone Glacier. This vast sea of ice, 10,450 ft. high, is surrounded by lofty snowy peaks, and gives birth to the famous river Rhone. Longfellow, in Hyperion, describes it as a frozen cata- ract, 2,000 ft. high, and many miles broad. You may go thence to Brieg by diligence (5 hrs. ; lO^fr. ; coupe, 12 fr. 75 c), whence rly. to Visp, en route to Zermatt. It is better to pass the night at the Hotel du Glacier du, Rhone; and at morn go by horse (32 fr.) along the steep grassy Maienwand; up over the Grimsel Pass (7,103 ft. high); by the Lake of the Dead, in which the soldiers killed in the battles between the French. 284 KEIEINGEN. — BRIENZ. and Austriaus hereabouts, in 1799, were buried; down the steeps to the Hospice (now a hotel), in the rocky mt. basin of the Grimselgrund, near the Agassizhorn &nd the Finster-Aarhorn, and 2 hrs. from the Unter- Aar Glacier, where Prof, xigassiz abode in 1841 (ex- cursion to top of Little Sidelhorn, 3 hrs. ; guide, 4fr.) ; down the Aare ravine to the Handeok Falls (i fr.) ; where the icy river precipitates itself 250 ft., in a deep rocky gorge ; by Guttanen, with its rock-strewn mead- ows ; to Im-Hof, whence a good road leads to Meiring-en (Sauvage; Meiringenlwf; Couronne; De VOurs) is beautifully situated in the Hasli valley near the Reichenbach Falls. It was almost totally de* stroyed by fire in October, 1891, but has been rebuilt. From behind the Chalet 1'Ami you can descend into the canon of the Aare. It is 5^ hrs. hence to Han- deck Falls (horse up and back, 15 fr.). The Brimig Pass is one of the most frequented. Lucerne to Aljmacli (whence Pilatus may be ascended) by steamer (1^ hrs.), and thence by rail (10 fr.) to Brienz, via Meiringen. You pass the pretty hamlet of Sarnen, in a rich valley be- tween high mts. ; SacJiseln, with a saint's relics in its ch. ; over the Briinig Pass, 3,395 ft. high (Hotel Brunigkulm); and then downward, with magnificent mt. views, to the Aare, where you meet the valley road. "We advise the tourist to go from Lucerne to the top of the St. Gothard, and thence over the Furca and Grimsel to Meir- ingen. You may go thence to the top of the Briinig in a morning. Brienz (Bar; Weisses Kreuz) , on the mountain- Walled Lake of Brienz. 800 people are employed here in wood-carving. The lake is 7^x2^ m., and the deepest in Switzerland. Jt is traversed by the INTERLAKEN. — GRINDELWALD. 285 «rlntish-green waters of the Aare. The Giessbach is a series of 7 beautiful cascades, falling from rocks 1,148 ft. high, amid luxuriant herbage and stately trees, and illuminated at night by Bengal lights. A mt.-rly. leads from the landing on the lake, over the tree-tops, to the hotel (telegraph for rooms, and stay all night). By steamer in 10 min. from Brienz; thence by footpath in 20 min. Steamer from Brienz, 7 times daily (2fr., Ifr.), to Interlaken. The Bernese Oberland Interlaken (Victoria; Metropole; Jungfrau; Des Alpes; Belvedere; Jungfrauhlick; Sonne; Cerf; de la Gare ; OberUinder ; Bellevue; Stadtliaus; National, Deutscherhof). in the beautiful glen bet-ween the lakes f>i Brienz and Thun, is the main rendezvous of tourists during the high season (July 15 to Oct. 1), and the best point for trips in any part of the Bernese Ober- land. People remaining 2-3 weeks in this great town of hotels can get board for 8-9 fr. a day, or in the pensions at 5-6.fr. JSee once magnificent Hoheweg promenade, lined with walnut-trees ; the Kursaal, with semi-daily concerts ; the old wooden village of TJnter- seen; the ruined castles of Unsprunnen and WeissenaW, tod the precipitous Harder int., where many fatal accidents have occurred. The Interlaken hotels are crowded with people of fashion ; and parties, balls, and receptions continually occur. Excursions. — The legal tariffs for carriages are printed in a pamphlet (to be had at the hotels), and are ad- hered to by drivers. Local guide-books (in English) describe routes and localities. Grindelwald (Bar ; Eiger ; Adler ; Du Glacier) is reached by railway or private conveyance, and is near two vast glaciers, in 286 LAUTERBRUNNEN.-MURREN. a yalley surrounded by the Wetterhorn, Mettenberg> and Eiger. Lauterbrunnen (Steinboch; Staubbach) is 7£ M, from Inteiiaken, in a narrow rock-girt glen, close tG the famous Staubbach (dust-brook), a slender but unbroken fall 980 ft. high. Farther up the glen are the grand JSchmadribach Fall and the far- viewing Steinberg Alp. A marvellous Alpine experience is gained by climbing (2f hrs.) to Miirren (Grand Hotel des Alpes; Miirren; Jungfrau; Eiger), a ham- let 5,347 ft. high, on the edge of a cliff which fronts on one of the grandest Oberland ranges. The trip from Lauterbrunnen to Miirren can now be made by rly. (return tickets, 6 f r. ) . Large English colony here, July-September, with church. Grand views of Jungfrau, Eiger, Breithorn, Monch, etc. Excursion thence to the Schingelhorn in 4-6 hrs. (guide neces- sary; return, 3 hrs.). Prom Lauterbrunnen bridle-path over the Wen- gernalp ; by the. Hotel de la Jungfrau, whence is the finest view of the jungfrau, 13,671 ft. high ; ovei the Little Scheidegg (Hotel Bellevue), 6,788 ft. high, with magnificent views; and down to Grindel- wald (entire journey, 6-7 hrs.); or one can go (less desirable) by rly. Meiringen to Grindelwald, 18 M. (7£ hrs. walk, or horseback ride), by the grand Heiclienbach Fall ; the Baths of Mosenlaui (hotel), near the Rosenlaui Glacier; over the Great Scheidegg pass, 6,434 ft. high; and down by the Upper Grindelwald Glacier. Grand views of Wetterhorn, Faulhorn, etc., and from the low Grindelalp. Grindelwald to Lauter- brunnen or Interlaken. The Lake of Thun, reached by rly. from Inter- laken (Interlaken to Thun, 4-5 times dailv, in li hr.; 4 fr. 10 c.), .12 X 2£ M. in area, and 1,837 ft. high, has many villas and hamlets on its banks, back of which rise vast mts. As the steamer leaves SPIEZ— BERNE 287 Darlingen, fine retrospect of the Monch, Eiger, and Schreckhorn. The Gemini . — From Spiez (Spiezerhof, lake baths ; Schonegg), road into the Frutigthal (2^- hrs. ; also from Thun) and to Kandersteg ( Victoria). Ky. to Frutigen; 1 -horse carriage, Spiez to Kandersteg, 18 fr. 2-horse carriage, 18 and 35 fr. From Kandersteg a bridle path leads over the Gemmi pass (7,553 ft. high), amid mag- nificent scenery, and down to the Baths of Xjeuk (23J M ; guide, 7 f r. ; horse, 20 fr. ; horse to top of pass, 15 fr.) The steamer touches at Spiez, Oherhofen, etc., and backs down the Aare to Scherzligen close to Thun {Hotel de Thun; Bellevue; Kreuz; Krone), a prettily situated village, with quaint street-architec- ture; a castle built in. 1182; the Federal Military School; and numerous fashionable summer hotels, ftly. to Berne, 1 hr. (3fr. 85c, 2fr. 35c, Ifr. 70c.) Berne, Freiburg, Lausanne, Geneva. Berne (Bemerhof zmd Bellevue, both with fine views of the Bernese Alps ; Schweierzhof; De France ; Bar; Storch; Du Jura; Ffistern), the capital of Switzerland (68,000 inhab.), on a sandstone peninsula high over the Aare, has pleasant arcaded streets and mediaeval houses and fountains, and is a favorable place to rest after journeying in the Alps. See fine Gothic Cathedral (1598), with quaint carvings and famous organ ; Cathe- dral-Terrace > viewing the entire Bernese range, Wetter- horn, Finster-Aarhorn, Monch, Eiger, Jungfrau, etc., and the beautiful roseate sunset effect of the Alpen- Glow; statues of Rudolph, von Erlach and Berthold von Zahringen; Museum (open daily, \ fr.) of natural history and antiquities ; University, 400 students, and rich library \ liathhaus, built 1406 , Bear-Fit, witii 288 FKEIBURG.— LAUSANNE. bears, maintained at the cost of the municipality j Arsenal, and military curiosities ; Clock-Tower, built in 1191, with quaint automata ; Corn-Hall, over great wine cellars; Ogre Fountain, etc. The Fed- eral Buildings (open 9.30-11.30, 2-4, free) are two noble Florentine edifices (1857 and 1892). The two houses of the national legislature meet here. From roof of older building there is a famous view of the Alps and city. There are beautiful views also from the Schanzli and the Huge, near Berne. Visit His- torical Museum (£ fr.), opened 1894, and the Kunst Museum, mostly modern paintings. From Berne by ry. in-li hr. (fares 3£fr., 2£fr., Ifr. 85c.) to Freiburg {Hotel du Faucon; Suisse; Tete Noire), founded (like Berne) by Berthold von Zahringen in 1175, and standing on cliffs over the river Sarine, a nobly picturesque situation. See the Gothic Church (built 12S3), in which is a renowned organ of 7,800 pipes, said to have the richest tone in the world (con- cert at dusk, summer evenings, 1 fr.) ; the 16th-century Rathhaus, with its venerable lime-tree and stairway to the lower town ; and the Suspension Bridge, 800 ft. long and 168 ft. above the river. The descent hence to Lausanne (12 M.) is one of the most beautiful routes in Europe. Take seat on I, side, to see the Lake of Geneva and its picturesque shores. Exquisite view after emerging from the tunnel beyond Chexbres (the stat. for Vevay). Lausanne {Riche Mont ; Beau Sejour; Victoria; Beau Site; Du Grand Pont ; Gibbon, where Gibbon wrote part of his history), with its lovely views over the lake, has become a favorite summer-resort and place of residence (47,000 inhab.). See Gothic Ca- thedral (Protestant), built 1235-75, where Calvin and others held a famous debate, in 1536, resulting in Prot- estantizing Vaud. It is reached by 164 steps from GENEVA. — FERNEY. 289 the market-place ; and the plain symmetrical interior is 300 feet long. The old Episcopal Castle (now Cantonal Council-Hall) commands a broad prospect. See the two museums. From the Signal, half an hour walk out, the best view is gained. Continue on this route, by the lovely villages of Morges, Nyon, arid Coppet, to Geneva (Grand Hotel de la Baix ■■; desBerguesf de Russie; Riehemond; de V Univers; Beau Rivage; d'Angleterre; Bellevue; National; Metropole ; de VEcu; du Bare; du Lac; de la Boste; de Boris), a city of 90,000 inhab., in a pretty situation at the foot of the Lake of Geneva, and divided into two parts by the swift and rushing blue Rhone; The favorite promenade, the Mont-Blanc Bridge^ crosses between the lake and Rousseau's Island^ on which is a statue of Rousseau. Broad quays, lined with handsome buildings and hotels, face the river and lake. Beautiful views of Mont Blanc f*om the Quai da Mont - Blanc and the pipr beyond. The Cathedral (Protestant), "the St. Peter's of the North," is a plain 13th- century building (50 c), containing several old monuments. Here Calvin preached. His house is close by ; and his grave is in Blain-Balais cemetery. Rousseau's birthplace was No. 40 Grand Rue. See Musee Fol, antiquities; Musee Rath (daily, 11-3), with many paintings and casts ; Florentine Hotel de Ville, with inclined planes instead of stairs; Na- tional Monument, bronze group by the lake; the University (1868-72), with large library and MSS., and famous natural history collections; Musee Ariana (I fr., free Thurs. and Sun.); and the vast monument to Duke Charles II. of Brunswick, on the Place des Alpes. Excursions. — To Ferny, 44- M. N.W. (hourly elec- tric tram over a route rich in views), where Voltaire 290 LAKE OF GENEVA. — OOPPET. founded a town, built factories, a chateau, and a ch. (inscribed Deo erexit Voltaire) ; to the imposing new Rothschild villa, at Prigny ; to the Saleve, 4M. S. E., a limestoue mt., 4,278 ft. high, giving a panoramic view of the Mont-Blanc chain, the Juras, and the Lake of Geneva ; to Les Voirons, another far- viewing mt. ; to the villas where dwelt Voltaire, Byron, Lola Montez. and the Empress Josephine ; to the -French stronghold of Fort de V Eel use ; and to the Perte clu Rhone, where, at low water, the river vanishes in a deep canon. The Lake of Geneva, the Lacus Lemanus of the Romans, and Lac Leman of the French, is the largest Swiss lake, being about 50 X 9 M. (225 sq. M.) in area, and 1,230 ft. above the sea. It is in the form of a half-moon. The water is deep blue, and contains but few fish. It never freezes over, and has mysterious rises and falls, strong currents, and water-spouts. Voltaire and Rousseau, Byron and Goethe, have praised its magnificent scenery. Scores of villages line the shores, but have little commerce on the water. Capital steamboats ply here. The S. coast boat runs in 4%— 5 lirs. (6 fr., 3 fr.) by Thonon, capital of Chablais ; and Evian (Hotel de France ; Eoian ; Des Bains), a beautiful and fashion- able French summer-resort, with fine views of Lausanne ; to Bouveret, at the end of the lake (rly. to Martigny). The better route is along the N. shore, 4-|- hrs. (J\ fr., 3 fr.) from Geneva by Versoix, once a French town; Coppet {Du Lac; Du Port), whose castle was long time the home and is now the burial-place of Necker, the famous finance-minister, and his daughter, Madame de Stael ; Nyon (Du Lac; Du Jura; Ange), a lovely village, with massive 12th century castle, and a splendid view of Mont Blanc; Rolle, birthplace of La Harpe, to whom an obelisk has been raised on an MORGES. — VEVAY. — NEUCHATEL. 291 adjacent island ; Morges, with a castle once occupied by Bertha, Queen of Burgundy; Ouchy (Hotel Beau Rivage; D 'Angleterre; DuChateau),wh.ence rl.in 6 m, (50c, 25c.) to Lausanne; Corsier, close to the impos- ing and far-viewing Grand Hotel cle Vevay, in gardens of magnolias and rose-trees ; Vevay {Grand Hotel de Vevay ; DuPo?it; Da Lac), a sheltered nook with semi- tropicaL climate, much visited by invalids and summer loiterers, and celebrated in Rousseau's Nouvelle Helolse; Clarens, with many villas and pensions, and natural beauties extolled by Byron and Rousseau ; and Mon- treux (Lorius; Beau-Lieu; Suisse), a shelter for con- sumptives ; to Villeneuve, at the end of the lake (ry. to Martigny, etc.). Pleasant walk thence to the famous Castle of Chillon (2 M. ; entrance, 50 a), whose dungeons and their illustrious prisoner have been im- mortalized by Byron. See Rocher de Naye, a beau- tiful mountain place above Territet, between Chillon and. Montreux, at the E. end ol the Lake of Geneva. Neuchatel (Bellevue; DuLac; Soleil; Vaisseau), 2 hrs. by rly. from Lausanne, stands on an amphitheatrical slope of the Jura, sloping down to the lake, and is famous for watches. Wealthy citizens have endowed it nobly. See splendid Gymnasium and Academy, museums, Library (70,000 vols.), new College, Picture- Gallery (| fr.) of fine modern Swiss paintings, ancient Castle, and the 3 great hospitals. Agassiz was once a professor here. The Lake of Neuchatel, 24 X 5 M. iu area, lies at the foot of the Juras, with level shores and deep waters. At its S. end is "Yverdon (Hotel de Londres ; Paon; Faucori), where Pestalozzi conducted his school (1805-25). Steamboats run from Neuchatel to Estavayer, and into the gloomy Lake of Morat, famous in Roman and Burgundian history. TotheN., 1 hr. by rly. from Berne, is Bienne, a lovely Bernese town of 8,000 inhab., neai Gkasseral mt. The Lake 292 AIGLE. — THE COL DE BALME. of Bienhe (7 M. long) contains the Peterinsel, where Rousseau took refuge when driven from Geneva (in 1765). Chamounix and float Blanc. From Geneva by str. to Villeneuve, rly. thence to Martigny, and across to Chamounix. One can now go from Geneva to Chamounix entirely by rail — steam to Fayet St. Gervais, thence by electric tram. The journey takes only a few hours. France is entered at Annemasse. Dinner at Sallanches. Eare by boat and rly., Geneva to Martigny, 13 fr. 90 c, 9 fr. 60 c, 6 fr. 90 c. Ascending the Rhone Valley from Villeneuve, the rly. passes Aigle (Grand Hotel des Bains ; Beau Site), a pleasant summer-resort; and Bex {Grand Hotel des Salines ; Bains), whence route to Sion, across the Col de Ckeville. Beautiful views of the Dent du Midi, while nearing St. Maurice (Hotel du Simplon; des Alpes). This is a very old town with a 4th century abbey, enshrining rare curiosities; a stalactite grotto; and picturesque fortifications. Be- yond Evionnaz stat; see the Pissevache fall (200 ft.) on the r. This is best visited from Vernayaz (Hotel des Gorges; Des Alpes), which is also very near the cele- brated Gorge* du Trient. Martigny (H. Glerc; De la Gare; National; 3ft. Blanc; St. Bernard) is starting point of the routes over the Simplon (to Lake Maggiore) and the Great St. Bernard (to Aosta), and over the passes to Chamounix. You can visit Chamounix ; ascend to the top of the St. Bernard ; return to Mar- tigny ; and go thence over the Simplon. The Col de Balme. — Martigny to Chamounix, 9-10 hrs. ; mule and attendant, 24 fr. and gratuity <2 mules, 36 fr.). Carriage-road as far as Trient, where lunch is taken. Grand view of the Mont-Blanc CHAMOUNIX. - MONT BLANC. 293 group. Path in 2 hrs. to Col de Balmo (Hotel Suisse), 7,231 ft. high, the boundary between Swiss Valais and French Savoy, with amazing prospect of mts. Descend the Arve valley thence to Tour and Argentiere (Bellevue) ; whence road (1-horse carriage, 5 f r. , and 1 fr. to driver) to Chamounix(/wper*«Z; Caehat et du Mont Blanc;. cPAngleterre; C outlet et du Pare; Royal et de Saus- sure; Savoy), in Arve valley, 3,445 ft. high, at foot of Mt. Blanc, has 15-20,000 visitors yearly, and is one of the chief centres for Alpine tourists. Rooms should be secured in advance. The whole valley is worthy of study, and has scores of points of interest. Tariffs for guides and mules (strictly observed) may be obtained at chief guide's office. In a day you may ascend the Montanvert (easy bridle-path, 2|hrs.), where Tyn- dall studied glacier movement ; cross the wonderful TVIer de Glace to the rocky cliffs of the Ckapeau (path id the ice, l^lirs.), where there is an inn; descend to' Les Praz ; climb thence to La Flegere (path in 2| hrs. ; inn on summit, 6,260 ft. high), whence magnificent view of the vast snowy Mont Blanc, Aiguille Vert, Mer de Glace, etc. ; and return to Chamounix. On the descent to Les Praz, you may visit the source of the Arveiron. The Jardin is among the rocks on the Glacier de Talefre, where Alpine flowers bloom in August. The Brevent, one of the Aiguilles Rouges, 8,284 ft. high, commanding the best view of Mont Blanc, mav be climbed by path in 4 hrs. Mont Blanc, the highest of the Alps (15,781 ft.), the boundary between France and Italy, was first ascended in 1786. Many parties now ascend yearly (3-4 persons, 100 fr. each, for guides, etc.). Many valuable lives have been lost here, but in fine weather and with duo caution there is little danger. Eirst day's 294 ST. BERNARD PASS. climb to stone huts on Grands Mulets (10,007 fc.) ; second, to summit and back ; third, from Grands Mulets to Chamounix. The Tete-Noire affords a good route from Chamou- nix to Martigny (9-10 hrs.) One can now go by electric tram to Argentiere; across the Col des Montets ; near the Poyaz and Barberine Cascades; through Valor cine village and Le Chatelard ; through the rocky Tete-Noire pass ; and down through Trient to Martigny. The St. Bernard and Simplon Passes.— Zermatt. Martigny to the Hospice, 11^ hrs., a very interesting journey. Start at morn (2-horse carriage, 45 fr. and gratuity) ; or pass night at Orsieres, ascend to Hospice to breakfast, and return to Martigny afternoon. Daily diligence to Bourg St. Pierre. The road ascends the Dranse valley to Orsieres {Hotel des Alpes) ; climbs steeply 5 M. to Liddes {Angleterre ; Union), whence mule and guide to Hospice, 8-9 fr. ; by Bourg St. Pierre {Au Dejeuner de Napoleon) and Cantine de Proz, the end of the road. 7 M. distant, through the Defile de Marengo, at the top of the pass, is St. Bernard Hospice, 8,120 ft, above the sea, occupied since 962 by Erench Augustinian monks, who give free hospi- tality to all travellers. 20,000 peasants are fed here every year ; and in summer many tourists come. No charge is made for food, etc., but well-to-do travellers put money in the poor-box of the ch. The convent, very rich in the Middle Ages, is now poor. Its pro- visions are brought from Italy. See Napoleon's monu- ment to Dessaix, in the chapel ; the great library ; the Morgue; and the noble dogs. The pass has been ZERMATT. — SIMPLON PASS. 295 crossed by vast armies of Romans, Lombards, Franks, and Germans ; and in 1799 heavy fighting occurred here between the Austrians and Napoleon's troops. It is 6 hrs. hence to Aosta, in Italy. Zermatt ( Victoria: Mont-Cervin; Mont-Rose) is approached from Martigny by railway, passing through Vispach. The traveller will find this a characteristic Alpine route, among gorges, cascades, and rocky peaks, with vast mountains in advance. The village is the highest in Europe (5,215 feet), con- tinuously inhabited, and is in the very heart of the Alps, in a glen invaded by 3 glaciers and overtopped by the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, and other vast peaks. Its ch.-yard has graves of several famous men who lost their lives on these mts. The Riffelberg (with hotel) vs 3 hrs. distant, by bridle-path ; and 1^ hr. beyond is tkp rocky crest of Gorner Grat, 10,290 ft. high, with su perb view of Monte Rosa's rocky pyramids (16,132 ft.), on the S. E. ; the black Breithorn (13,685 ft.), on th# S. ; the craggy Matterhorn (14,705 ft.), on the W. \ the Dent Blanche, Gabelhoni, Morning, the Mischabe). and the Allaleinhorn, in the N. Gornergrat elec. ry. now completed. From Zermatt visit the Gorner Glacier (12 M. long), which is larger than the Mer de Glace ; the Findelen Glacier ; and to the Cima di Jazi (12,526 ft.), by the Riffelberg. The St Theodule Pass leads to Aosta. Monte Rosa (15,217 ft.) offers a safe, but fatiguing climb (up and back, 12-14 hrs.). The fatal Matterhorn is ascended by several parties yearly (a severe 2-days' trip). The Simplon.— Elv. Martigny to Brieg in 2£ hrs. (8fr. 20, 5fr. 80, 4fr. 10), by Saxon-ies-Bains {Grand Motel des Bains; de la Pierre-d-Voir), with iodated voters, good for skin diseases; beautiful Sion(iZ~. du Hidi; Poste), with old castles, Gothic cathedral, 2 fine 296 SIMPLON PASS. old chs., and 6,000 inhab. ; mediaeval Sierre (Bellevue), with, the chateaux of the Valais nobles ; Leuk, a few miles from the Baths of Leuk {Hotel des Alpes ; Bellevue ; Be France), and at the foot of the Gem mi Pass ; and Visp (route to Zermatt) . From the end of the rly., at Brieg {Hotel oV Angleterre) , diligences cross the Simplon Pass in 9-10 hrs. (39 M. ; fares, 16 fr. 55c; coupe, 19 fr. 65 c), to Domo d' Ossola. Napoleon built this great road, in 1801-6, at a cost of $3,600,000, for a military route into Italy. There are numerous houses of refuge where the road nears the glaciers. The crest of the pass is 6,594 ft. high, in an open val- ley among glaciers. Beyond, near Monte Leone, is the Hospice, whose monks are hospitable to all comers. Magnificent mt. -scenery on upper reaches of pass. The road descends 5| M. to Simplon (Poste), and through the Gondo Ravine. \ M. beyond the hamlet of Gondo it enters Italy, and passes down, 03 several villages, through wild and picturesque gorges, by the Crexola Gallery, and over the lofty Boveru Bridge, to Domo d'Ossola. (See page 298.) Now, however, the opening of the Simplon tunnel has made possible an all rail route from France to Italy, reducing the length of the jouruey by several hours, and at the same time depriving it of much of its pic- turesqueness. The tunnel extends from Brieg to Iselle, a distance of a little over 12 miles. ROUTES INTO ITALY. 297 ITALY. HHHE money of Italy is reckoned in lire and cen- tesimi, which correspond to francs and cen- times. The paper money consists of notes of 5, 10 and 25 lire. Beware of counterfeits; also of taking large bank notes in one city which may not be good in another. See Chapter on Travel, for general ob- servations on Italy. Many complaints have been made of thefts from baggage on the Italian railways. It is well, therefore, not to carry valuable jewelry, or money, in trunks. Routes into Italy. 1. Paris to Turin, by Mt. Cenis, 496£ M. ; 16 (express) to 27 hrs. ; fares, 91 fr. 10 c, 62 fr. 55 c, 40 fr. 15 c. Route leads through Fontainebleau, Ton- nerre, Montbard(Buffon's home), Dijon, Macon, Culoz, Chambery, and Modane (frontier stat. ; change cars). The Mt.-Cenis Tunnel, 8 M. long, was built 1861- 71, at a cost of $15,000,000. Trains for Italy run through it in 45 min. ; trains for France, in 25 min. 2. Paris to Genoa, by Marseilles and Nice, 790| M. ; fares, 155 fr. 90 c, 105 fr. 35 c, 84 fr. 30 c. Ely. from Genoa via Alessandria, to Turin ; or from Savona, W. of Genoa, to Turin (5| hrs.). 3. Geneva to Milan, by the Simplon, see p. 295. 4. Lucerne to Milan, by the St. Gothard (see p. 280), through Muelen, Airolo, and Bellinzona, and thence rly. by Como. Or rly. through from Lucerne to Milan (fare, 36 fr. 70 c). 298 • LAKE MAGGIORE. . 5. Coire to Milan, by the Spliigen, to Chiavenna and Colico, whence steamer to Como, and rly. to Milan. Or by Bernardino Pass, Coire to Bellinzona, whence rly. Or by Julier and Bernina Passes, Coire to Sama- den, Tirauo, and Colico, whence steamer to Como.- and rly. to Milan. 6. Basle to Milan, by the Stelvio. PJy. to Con- stance and Bludenz ; diligence to Landeck, Nanclers, Bormio, and Colico ; steamer and rly. to Milan. 7. Munich to Verona, by Brenner Pass, see p. 264. 8. Vienna to Venice, by the Semmering, all rly., by Brnch and Villach, through magnificent scenery. Leave Vienna at 7 a.m. ; reach Venice, 11 p.m. Or rly. from Vienna to Trieste, and steamer thence to Venice. The Tour of the Italian Lakes. Domo d' Ossola {Grand Hotel de la Ville / D'Es- pagne) is a pretty southern village, with a charming view from the Calvary, \ hr. distant. Railway to Novara (55 M.; %\ hrs.; 10 1. 30 c, 7 1. 15 c. 4 1. 60 c.) passing the ruined castle of Vogogna; Ornavasso, with a castle of the Visconti, and the quarries whence Milan Cathedral was hewn ; Gravellona ; through the valley of the Strona to Omegna at the N. end of the Lake of Orta. Thence along the shore of the lake, beautiful views, to Gozzano ; through the valley of the Agogna to Novara, whence Milan can be reached by rly. in 1^ hr. Diligence from Gravellona to Pallanza, on Lake Maggiore (6 M.; 1 hr.; 1 1., outside, 1J 1.) ; to Stresa m M. ; 1 hr. ; 1 1. 20 c. ; 1 1. 80c). It is wise to make a tour of the lakes (1-2 clays) before going to Milan. Lake Maggiore, 37X14- M. in area, and of vast depth, is very beautiful, with the rich plains and vine* yards on the S., aud the great rnts. on the N. Ther? are marble and granite quarries on its shores, and ri<»t ARONA.— BORROME AN ISLANDS. 299 mines. Arona (Albergo Reale e Posta), on the S., is An old town, with rare paintings in its ch. On the hill is a copper and bronze statue, 70 ft. high, of St. Charles Borromeo (1697), the famous Cardinal- Arch- bishop of Milan, who died in 1584. The head will hold 3 persons (ladders ascend to it, inside). Steamer front Arona to Locarno (4 1.. 80 c., 2 1. 65 c). It calls at Stresa (Hotel ties lies Borromees ; Milan\ with its Sne monastery and cypress-trees; and Baveno (Grand Hotel Bellevue; Beau Rivage; Simplon). The shores are lined with villas ; and in the N. glimmer the Alps, Monte Rosa, St. Gothard, etc. The beautiful Borro- tnean Islands are touched at (see Jean Paul Richter's description). Isola Bella (Hotel clu Dauphin) has the great palace of the Borromeo family (open daily; 11.), rising over 10 terraces of gardens, rich in flowers and fountains. Isola Madre has an empty palace, above 7 terraces, laden with orange and lemon trees, cedars, and cypresses. Boat with 2 men, from Baveno, 5 1, first hr., 1 1. others. Arona to Isola Bella, by steamer, 1^ 1., 90 c. ; fare thence, by Fariolo, Intra, and Laveno, 11. 85 c, 11. 15 c, to Luino. Opposite is Cannero, among the vineyards, with ancient brigands' castles off- shore. Lovely villages appear on either coast. The steamer keeps on N. to Locarno {Grand Hotel Locarno; Reber; d,u Pare), in the Swiss Canton of Tichio, to which the upper part of the lake belongs. See ch., with good pictures ; Cantonal buildings ; and Ch. of Madonna del Sasso, on the hill, visited by myriads of pilgrims. Ely. hence to Bellinzona, whence diligence over the Splugen. Return by boat (2L 10 c, 11. 20 c) to Luino (Hotel du Simplon ; Posta ; Vittoria), a fa- vorite summer-resort, with the Crivelli Palace an4 Garibaldi's statue. Steam tramway (1 h.; 2 1. 65c. g 1 L 300 LAKE LUGANO — LAKE COMO 45c.) to Poiite Tresa, thence steamboat (50 min., 41. 50c, 21. 70c.) to Lugano (Hotel du Pare; Grand; Splendide; Bellevue; Metropole; St. Gotthard; Berna; Bristol; JSvizzera), a Swiss cantonal capital, in- habited by Italians, amid exquisite scenery and ricft villas. See S. Lorenzo Ch.; Sta. Maria, with Luini's frescos ; Wra. Tell's statue ; and old convents and palaces. Excursion to Mt. B. Salvadore (2,982 ft. high) in 2 hrs. (guide and horse, 7 1.). View of Alps. Lake Lugano is a series of deep, sinuous gulfs among the mts., 14 M. long and 3 M. wide, Swiss on one side, Italian on the other, in a climate of perpetual spring, and amid very lovely scenery. The adjacent peaks overlook the Lombard plain, down to Milan. Steamer from Lugano (2|1., 11.), by Osteno, near a remarkable grotto, to Porlezza, a quaint village in an amphitheatre of hills; or S., to Capolago, whence rail- way to Como. Steam tramway (about 9 M. ; 1 hr. ; 2 1. 65 c, 1 1. 45c.) from Porlezza,' by Piano and Croce, and through a rich country, with Lake Como below .and the Alps in sight from the Spliigen to the Ortler Spitz, to Menaggio (Menaggio, Vittoria, Corona), on Lake Como. This is a good point for excursions • and on the hill is the Villa Vigoni, with fine sculptures. Lake Como, the Lacus Larius of the Romans, is shaped like the letter Y, and is 32 M. long, 2-3 M. wide, and 1,800 ft. deep. It is one of the loveliest lakes in the world, and its natural charms of mts., vineyards, and forests are heightened by the white Italian hamlets and the splendid villas of Milanese families. Cross to Bellaggio (Grande Bretagne % Bellaggio ; Genazzini ; Villa Serbelloni ; Florence; Suisse'), a favorite Anglo- American resort. The Villa Melzi (1 1.) has splendid sculptures (by Canova) and frescos, and a famous garden Prom Villa Serbelloni, best view on the COMO.— LAKE OF GAKDA. 301 lake. Across the lake is Cadennabbia (Bellevue ; Belle He; Britannia), near the celebrated Villa Car- lotta (fee 1 1.), rich in finest sculptures of Canova and Thorwaldsen. Steamer from Bellag° - io to Colico, whence rly. (17 M.; 31. 10 c, 2 1. 15 c, 1 1. 40 c.) to Chiavenna, and diligence over the Spliigen (12 hrs.; 22 1., outside 26 1. 65 c.) to Coire (see p. 278). Return thence to Colico and take steamer (3 J-5 hrs.; 4 1. 70 c, 2 1. 60 c.) through the lake, noting castles of 3fusso and many beautiful hamlets, to Como (Hotel Vol- ta ; Italia; Plinius), a place of 25,000 inhab., with statues of its eminent natives, the elder and the younger Pliny, and Yolta, the electrician. See marble Lombard-Gothic Cathedral (1396), with fine paintings (by Guido, Veronese, etc.) and sculptures, and vivid coloring ; Ch. of Croccfisso, richly adorned ; basilica of S. Abbondio, 1 M. out ; ancient Porta del Torre; and handsome old Broletto, or town-hall. Steamers run from Bellaggio down the picturesque Lake of Lecco, an arm of Como, to Lecco, at the foot of the high Rese- gone peaks (rly. to Milan). Como to Milan, 30 M. ; If hrs. (5| 1., 3 1. 85 c, 2% 1.). The Lake of Orta, 9 X 1| M. in area, is charm- ingly situated among the Piedmontese hills. Omnibus (2^1.) from Arona to Orta (S. Giulio; Orta; Bel- vedere), a marble-paved hamlet on a promontory, near the Sacro Monte, a height dotted with chapels, and looking up on Monte Rosa. — The Lake of Iseo is 15 X 1 i M. in area, winding, in S shape, among groves of mulberries and figs and gardens of roses and camel- lias. Railway from Brescia (15 M. ; If hr. : 2 1. 75 c, 1 1. 90 c, 1 1. 25 ( c.) to Iseo {Hotel Leone), whence steamer to beautiful Sarnico and Lover e. — The great Lake of Garda, 37 X 10 M. in area, 1,000 ft. deep, with clear blue waters, abounding in fish, and very picturesque shores, is traversed by steamboats, running from Des- enzano (the home of Catullus) or Peschiera (near the 302 MILAN. battle-field of Solferino), on the Milan-Verona rail- way, to Riva {Hotel Lido), a beautiful village at the N. end. The North = Italian Cities Milan (Hotel de la Ville; Cavour ; Milan / Gran Bretagna, all expensive ; Victoria; Europa ; Manin; Roma; Venezia) is a beautiful and enterprising city (490,000 inhab.), 9 M. around, in the centre of the rich Lombard plain. It was founded 400 b. c. ; a capital in the 3d-century; sacked by Attila in 452; a Lombard city in 568 ; annexed by Charlemagne; destroyed by Frederick Barbarossa in 1162; rebuilt by the Lombard League; governed by the Visconti and Sforza families, 1312-1545; conquered by Francis I., in 1515; annexed by Charles V. soon after, and Spanish till 1714; capital of Italy, 1805-14; an Aus- trian garrison, 1814-59 ; and since then Italian. Man- zoni was born here ; also 5 popes ; and Virgil studied here. The magnificent Gothic Cathedral, second only to St. Peter's and Seville Cathedrals in size, was built 1386-1500. It is cruciform, with double aisles and transept-aisles, separated by 52 pillars, each 12 ft. in diameter, with niches crowded with statues. Interior 477 ft. long, 183 ft. wide, and 155 ft. high. It con- tains 6,000 statues, a pavement of marble mosaic, vast granite monoliths, superb stained windows, many tombs of magnates, St. Carlo Borromeo's wooden cru- cifix and gorgeous tomb, and life-size silver statues of saints (in the Treasury). The wonderful marble roof (entered from r. transept, 5 a. m. till dusk, 25 a), with ninety -eight Gothic turrets, hundreds of pinnacles, and over two thousands life-size marble statues ■ — some by Canova, — ■ should be carefully studied (2-3 hrs.) Ascend (at early morn) to the MILAN. 303 upper gallery of the tower (494 steps), which is 360 ft. high, and view the Lombard plain, Apennines, snd Alps(Mt. Cenis, Blanc, St. Bernard, Rosa, Mat- terhorn, Mischabel, Leone, St. Gothard, Spliigen, Ortler, Spitz, etc.). Watchman here, with tele- scope. Cross Cathedral Sq., and enter the Victor- Em7nanue% Gallery, the finest arcade in the world; built in 1865-7 ,tt a cost of $1,600,000 ; 960 ft. long, 48 wide, 94 high, »;urrounded by handsome shops; richly frescoed ; and idorned with statues of Raphael, Galileo, Dante, Cavour, and 20 other famous Italians. The octagon under the dome (180 ft. high) is brilliantly lighted at iiight, when it forms a favorite promenade. On the adjacent Piazza della Scala, see Leonardo da Vinci's monument (1872). the massive Municipal Palace (1555), and the great La Scala Theatre, with 3,600 sittings (1 1. to see building ; famous ballets here, in season). Near by is the Jesuit ch. of San Fedeld (1569). The Brera, once a Jesuit college (1675), is a great palace built around a quadrangle adorned with statues; and contains a library of 300,000 vols.; a celebrated gallery (open daily, 9-4, 1 1. ; free on Sunday) of 400 paintings and sculptures (get catalogue) . The Piazza de'Armi, N. W. of Milan, has the Arena built by Napoleon I., and holding 30,000 spectators ; the Castle of the Sforzas, built 1358 ; and the great triumphal marble Arch, ending the Simplon route,, founded by Napoleon (1804) to record his victories. and finished by Austria (1830), with reliefs showing the victories over France. Grand statues on summit. The Gorso Vittorio Emanuele is the chief business street, and contains S. Carlo Borromeo (a copy of the Roman Pantheon), and several palaces. See Piazza dei Mercanti, with Exchange and 13th-century palace of the Podesta; Piazza Beccaria, with statue of Beccarla; 304 LA CERTOSA. and the Roman, Garibaldi, and Tosa Gates. S. Am- brogio, founded by St. Ambrose (4th century), is a Romanesque ch., rich in monuments of ancient Chris- tianity, 8th-century reliefs, 9th-century mosaics, Stili- cho's sarcophagus, the brazeu serpent of Moses. Here Augustine embraced Christianity ; Ambrose closed the gates against the Emperor Theodosius ; and the Lom- bard and German sovereigns received the Iron Crown. In the refectory (1 1.), near the rich, old abbey-ch. of S. Maria chile Grazie, are the remains of Leonardo da Vinci's grand fresco of The Last Supper. See the 4th- century octagonal S. Lorenzo, and its colonnade ; S. Maria di S. Celso, with remarkable paintings, sculptures, and atrium ; S. Maurizio, with Luini's frescos. The Am- brosian Library (open 10-3, if r. ), founded (1609) by- Cardinal Borromeo, has 175,000 vols., 15,000 MSS., many literary curiosities and several hundred paint- ings. The Civic Museum (-J fr.) has large natural- history collections. The Castello Sforzesco, restored 1893, contains the Municipal Art and Archaeological Museum (adm. lfr., Thu. -Jfr., Sun. 20 a). See the Ospedale Maggiore (1457), a vast hospital with 9 courts; Military Hospital; Manzoni's house; palaces of Borromeo, Litta, Omoneni, Trivulzio and Ciani families; Cemetery, with cremation -temple; Public Gardens .where Exhibition of 1881 was held; Archbish- op's Palace, near Cathedral, with fine court (1565); and Royal Palace, adjacent, with huge Napoleonic frescos. La Certosa (1 hr. by rly. ; 3 1. 20 c, 2 1. 25 c, 1 1. 60 a), in a fertile and populous plain, was one of the most sumptuous monasteries in the world, and be- longed to the Carthusians. It was founded in 1396 by the Visconti; and here Francis I. was a prisoner in 1525. The ch., with 14 columns, a high dome, mosaic floor, monuments, and frescos, is crowded with precious things. The rich Renaissance facade (1473) is hi PAVIA.-ALESSANDRIA.-TURIN. 305 colored marbles, with delicate carvings. Grand clois- ters, with slender marble pillars and monks' houses. Pavia (Croce Bianca; Hotel Tre Be) is a little way S. (fares from Milan, 41. 10c, 21. 85 c, 21. 10c). See unfinished Cathedral, facade and dome built 1898; Promenade, along Ticino River; University, the old- est in Europe; old Romanesque Ch. of St. Michele, with Giottesque frescos, colossal statue of Ghislieri;. towers on the walls; and Castle, built 1630. Pavia to Cremona and Brescia, 14 1. 5 c, 9 1. 85 c. r 71. 5 c.; to Piacenza, 61. 85 c, 41. 80 c, 31. 45 c From La Certosa the fares are 7 1. 40 c, 5 1. 20 c, 3 1. 75 c, to Alessandria (Bly. Bestaurant ; Europa; Londra), a huge fortress (73,000 inhab-.), whose ap- proaches can be flooded in war-time. Citadel built, 1 728, by Victor Amadeo II . Hence in 2^-3 hrs- (10 L 20 c, 71. 30 c 3 51. 15 c.) to Turin (Be la Ville, de Turin, d' Europe, Fiorina T Central, de France. Boma e Boeca Cavour), prosper- ous city of 350,000 inn., on the plain, of the Po, near the Graian Alps. It was destroyed by Hannibal (218 B.C.) and Alaric ; was a Roman colony ; a bishopric under Charlemagne ; capital of Savoy and Sardinia, and of Italy (1859-65). It is laid out with Pliiladelphiart regularity, and surrounded by umbrageous promenades, on site of old walls. The Palazzo Madama is a huge mediaeval pile, centrally situated ; and once the Senate- house of Italy. Across the Piazza Castello is the Royal Palace, a ponderous old brick building (usually open), richly furnished, and with fine statuary, library (60,000 vols. ; open 9-4), and armory (daily, 11-3), with Roman, French and Austrian standards, Cellini's metal-work, weapons, armor, etc. The hand- some and busy Via di Po, with arcades, runs thence to the Po bridge. The Palace of the Duke of Genoa 306 TURIN.-NOVARA. is connected with that of the King. The Royal Oar- dens open 11-5 Sundays and holidays, (music at 1). In the Palazzo delV Accademia are collections in natural history, sculptures, Egyptian antiquities, a library of 40,000 vols., and a gallery (open daily ; get catalogue) of 600 pictures, many of them of great interest. The Cathedral (1498) contains the Cappella del SS. Sudario, a high-clonied round chapel of brown marble, where the sovereigns of Savoy are buried. La Consolata ch. contains a revered image of the Virgin. The palaces and arcades of the Piazza dello Staiuio were erected by an English company, and surround a memorial of the Erejus Tunnel. There are many fine statues and groups in the Squares, honoring Italian notables. The university, a vast Renaissance palace, has 1,500 stu- dents, and a library of 200,000 volumes. See Albertina Academy of Fine Arts (open daily) ; Municipal Museum; House of Tasso ; house where Cavour died ; Royal *ffieatre; Ch. of Gran Madre di Dio; Monuments of Cavour, Victor Emanuel and Philibert; the great Carignano Palace; the favorite Public Garden, with chateau of II Valentino; handsome granite bridge; Arsenal; Citadel; Corpus Domini ch., richly dec- orated; S. Rocco; S. Andrea; Waldensian Temple; Capuchin Monastery and the curious Mole Antonelli- ana. The Cemetery, 1£M. N. E., has tombs of Silvio Pellico, Massimo d'Azeglio, Grioberti, etc. La Su- perga, on a hill E. of Turin, viewing city and Alps (Monte Rosa), is a splendid ch., built in 1717, with the tombs of Sardinian kings. The Valleys of the Waldenses are 30-40 M. S. W. of Turin. From Turin you may go to Milan (17 I., 11 1. 90 a, 8 1. 55 c.) by Novara {Sempione; Italia), a large Piedmontese market-town, where Peter Lombard was born in 1100. The 4th century Cathedral has columns of an older pagan temple. BERGAMO. — BRESCIA. 307 Turin to Venice, 257 M. ; 10§ hrs,, express ; fares, 471. 10 c., 331. 5 c, 231. 65 c. Milan to Bergamo (39 M.; 2 hrs.), 51. 90 c, 41. 15 c, 21. 95 c; to Brescia, 11M., 81. 5 c, 51. 75 c; to Verona, 181. 30 c; to Venice, 311. 80 c, 221. 80 c, 161. 30 c Take morning train. Pine scenery and interesting cities. Bergamo (Italia) is a prosperous fortified provincial and episcopal capital (48,000 inhab.). Aris- tocratic and governmental Old Town on hill, with Cas- tle above it ; commercial New Town below. About the Piazza Garibaldi, Cathedral, splendid Colleoni Chapel, Municipal Palace, and quaint old Gothic Broletto pal- ace. See very interesting Ch. of Sta. Maria Maggiore (1173), containing tomb of Donizetti; Accademia Carrara, with over 200 ancient paintings ; vast build- ings, with 600 shops, for annual Fair (Aug. 15-Sept. 15). Excursions to Vals Brembana and Seriana, and Lake of Iseo. Brescia {Alb ergo oV Italia; Gambero; Brescia) makes famous arms, silks, cloths (70,000 inhab.); was a Gaulish town ; a Roman colony ; Milan's rival in the 16th century; sacked by Gaston de Foix in 1512; a Venetian garrison, 1517-1797 ; bombarded by Aus- trians in 1849. Beautifully situated at foot of the Alps, surrounded by walls and overlooked by a castle. The Cathedral (built 1604-1S25) is of marble, with vast dome. Near by is La Botonda, the old cathedral (9th century), round, with dome and crypt. See chs. of S. Afra, S. Clemente, and S. Nazzaro e Celso, rich in pictures; Galleria Tosio (open 11-3), 13 rooms full of notable paintings ; Biblioteca Queriniana (open 11-3), £0,000 vols., and rare literary curiosities,- Museo Patno (11-3 daily), Roman relics, in a tempie built j)y Vespasian, a.d. 7^ ; 12th century Broletto and cam- panile; handsome. Palazzo Comunale (1503J, richly 308 SOLFERINO.— VERONA. carved; Mediceval Museum in two old churches, Lake of Garda, see page 301. The rly. to Venice passes Desenzano, whence 4 1. by carriage to Solferino, where a chapel contains bones of 7,000 soldiers slain in the battle (1859) ; runs along S. shore of Lake of Garda, with lovely views; through the fortress of Peschiera ; to thriving Verona (Colombo, d'Oro ; Qran Hotel di Lon- dra), on the edge of the Tyrol, on a rich plain (78,000 inhab.). First a Gaulish town, 350 B.C.; then a Roman fortress ; capital of the Gothic empire ; one of Charlemagne's chief towns; a republic; capital of the Scaligers ; Venetian appanage for 300 years ; Aus- trian garrison (1797-1866) ; aucl Italian city. There are 5 bridges over the rapid Adige. Verona is sur- rounded with formidable bastioned walls and detached castles, built by Austria and lately strengthened by Italy. Give a day to its wonderful memorials of Romans, Goths, Lombards, and Carlovingians ; chs. of rare interest ; and venerable palaces. The Cathedral is a stately 14th-century Gothic ch., with cloisters on red-marble columns. Huge pillars inside. Near by is the old 12th-century Baptistery ; also, Bishop's Palace, with colossal statue in courtyard, and library. The Piazza delle Erbe, or fruit-market, is a remarkably picturesque square, once the forum of the Republic, sur- rounded with frescoed palaces, and containing a tall marble pillar where once stood the lion of Venice, the quaint Tribuna (or judgment-seat), !,he Municipio Tower (330 ft. high), and fountain with statue of Verona. The adjacent Piazza dei Signon, with impos. ing Municipio palace (1183), picturesque court; La Loggia, or Palazzo del Consiglio (1500), with statues of Catullus, Cornelius Nepos, Pliny, Vitruvius, Macer, all natives of Verona ; and statue of Dante. Near the VERONA. 809 Ch. of Sta. Maria Antica are the very curious and splendid Gothic Tombs of the Scaliger family, who ruled Verona 1262-1389. S. Anastasia (1261) is an interesting Gothic church, with noble interior. The Arena, on one side the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele (formerly Bra), is a well-preserved Roman Amphi- theatre, built by Diocletian or Trajan, and covered with earth and houses in the Middle Ages. The 72 arcades are leased to shop-keepers. It is oval, 1,584 feet around and 106 feet high, with 45 tiers, and can accommodate 95,000 spectators. The Porta de Bor- sari, a triumphal arch built by the Emperor Gallie- nus (a.d. 265), is on the Corso Cavour. See also two arches of Roman bridge ; an arch near old citadel ; and the Arch of the Lions. S. Zenone, in N.-W. quarter, founded by Pepin (who was buried there), is the finest mediaeval church with rich marble facade; very curious sculptures of "Wheel of Fortune, etc.; portal (1178) resting on red- marble lions ; doors with brazen reliefs ; a grandiose interior, with alternate pillars and columns; tomb and statue of S. Zeno ; and grand 12th-century clois- ters. Near by, through cloisters of S. Bernardino, is Sammicheli's beautiful Capella dei Pellegrini. Sam- micheli also built the handsome Stuppa Gate (end of Corso), towards the Castle, now an arsenal, once the palace of the Scaligers. The so-called Tomb of Juliet is a red marble sarcophagus, much visited by young ladies. See S. Pernio Maggiore, rich 14th-century Gothic ch. with walnut ceilings. Palazzo Bevilacqua y facade by Sammicheli. Academia delle Belle Arte (1 1.), in imposing Palazzo Pompei, with hundreds of fine old Veronese paintings, Roman- antiques, etc. Giusti Garden (50 a), with cypresses 500 years old, and commanding views of the Alps and Apennines ; Cemetery, surrounded by Doric colonnade; ini the great Castello JS. Pietro. 310 ROVEREDO. — MANTUA. — CREMONA. Excursion to Trent, very interesting, and thence down to Vicenza, byRoveredo (9,000 iuhab.), where Dante lived in exile. Verona to Munich by the Bren- ner, 63f L, 47 1. 55 c, 22 1. 15 c. (see p. 265). From Verona, you can visit Mantua (fares, 4 1. 60 c, 3 1. 20 c, 2 1. 30 c.) and Modena (fares, 11 1. 85 c, 8 1., 5f L), passing Villafranca, where peace was made be- tween France and Austria in 1859. Mantua (Aquila d'Oro; Senoner) is a dull old fortress (30,000 inhab.), among lakes and marshes. Here Virgil (born 3 M. S. E.) lived, and Mantegna and Giulio Romano were born. See S. Andrea (1472), a vast ch. with many monuments and frescos; Museo Civico in the Pal- azzo degli Studii ; spacious Cathedral; old Ducal Pal- ace (1302), richly frescoed by Mantegna and Romano: Accademia Virgiliana, with museum of sculpture (grand view of Tyrolese Alps from square) ; and Palazzo del Te, a huge palace outside the Porta Pusterla, erected by Romano, and adorned with bis greatest frescos. From Milan to Mantua direct, in 6 hrs. (fares, 18 1. 20 c, 12f 1., 9 1. 20 a), by Cremona (Capello ed Italia), ou the Po (36,000 inhab.), successively Gaul- ish, Roman, Gothic, Lombard, Austrian, and Italian, and famous for its violins, and now a dull town of wide streets and decaying palaces. See pictures in Public and Royal Palaces (9-3 daily) ; German-Lombard Cathedral, with rich facade and interior crowded with frescos ; Torrazzo (1261-84), a tower 397 ft. high, with arcades to Cathedral ; and nobles' palaces. Piacenza {Italia ; San Marco) may be reached hence by tramway ; or by rly. from Milan (7 1. 80 c, 5M., 3 1. 90 c; rly. from Milan to Bologna, 24 1. 45 c, 17 1. 15 c, 12^ 1.). This town (35,000 inhab.) was founded by the Romans, b. c. 219. See 13th- century Palazzo del Comune, with fine arcade?. VICENZA. — PADUA. 311 and equestrian statues of the Farnese princes ; 12th* century Romanesque Cathedral, frescoed by Guercino and Caracci; S. Francesco (1278), and Romagncsi's statue ; S. Sisto (1499-1511), for which Raphael painted his noblest Madonna (now at Dresden) ; Palazzo Farnese, built by Vignolain 1558 ; Citadel (154?) ; and S. Antonino, quaint vestibule. Rapid tourists will hasten from Verona to Venice direct, passing through Vicenza (Tre Garofani; Roma j Gran Parigi), a busy town of 44,000 inh., sur- rounded with walls and moats, and richly adorned with buildings designed by the great Palladio, a native of Vicenza (1518-80), among which are Cam del Diavolo ; Palazzo Prefettizio, Teatro Olimpico (|1.), etc. Also Basilica, or Palazzo del Consiglio, grand open arcades around town-hall ; Barbarano, Tiene, and Valmarano palaces; and Palazzo Chieregati, in which is Civic Museum (9-5 daily), with many paintings, etc. See Palazzo delta Rag io tie, very rich Gothic ; Great Tower (1446) ; palaces around Piazza de' Signori ; quaint old bridge, rivalling the Rialto ; dull Gothic Cathedral ; S. Corona, with priceless pictures ; S. Lorenzo ; Berto- liana Library, with rare MSS. ; and Roman Berg a Theatre. On Mt. Berici, pilgrimage-ch. of Madonna del Monte (1428), approached by arcade of 180 pillars (2,145 ft. long). \\ M. out is Villa Rotonda, Palladio's work, surrounded by Ionic colonnades. Padua {Stella oV Oro; Croced''Oro), a university town between Vicenza and Venice, has 80,000 inhab., and stands on a rich plain, embowered in gardens. From a distance its domes and towers and old bastioned walls and bastions present a noble appearance ; but within it appears almost deserted. Its foundation is attributed to Antenor, after the siege of Troy ; and in the Augus- tan age it was the chief city of North Italy. Alaric 312 PADUA. and Attila both sacked it ; and it was Venetian, 1402- 1797. In 14th century, Padua had more artists than any city (Giotto, etc.).. • The University 8 founded in 1238, was long the best in Europe, with 18-20,000 students. Galileo was a professor ; Dante, Petrarch, and Tasso were students. It is still famou3, and occupies a handsome old palace, with spacious arcades. On a promenade is a long line of statues (2 by Canova) of illustrious graduates, Savonarola, Giotto, etc. xl Santo, the vast Ch. of S. Antonio (1296-1475), 300 ft. long and 123 ft. high, is crowded with paintings, bronzes (by Donatello), and monuments (Bembo, Contarini), and has large cloisters. Taine calls it an Italian-Gothic building, decorated with Byzantine ■ cupolas, in which round domes, noble Greek towers, little columns surmounted by ogival arcades, a facade borrowed from Roman basilicas, and notions copied from Venetian palaces mingle the ideas of several centu- ries and countries. In front, see Donatello's equestrian bronze statue of Gattamelata, a Venetian general; and on the S., Scuola del Santo, a hall with famous frescos by Titian. S. Giustina (1549), a stately ch., often de- stroyed and rebuilt, with marble floor and rich choir- stalls. Near by, see Botanic Garden (oldest in Europe) ; and huge old monastery (now a hospital.) The Arena Chapel (1303) is filled with very precious frescos by Giotto (visit at morning, 50 c). Near by, see Eremitani Ch. (1276-1306), with monuments, and a chapel frescoed by Mantegna; and Scuola del Carmine, a baptistery with Titian's frescos. See Cathedral baptistery (1260), frescoed in 1380 ; 11th-century Palazzo delta liagione, with immense hall, largest known single roof, and 400 frescos ; Palazzo del Podesta and campanile ; and Civic Musemi, many paintings- Ouiet old Padua may well be the object of a day's excursion from Venice. VENICE. 31$ Arrive in Venice at night, if possible. The last stat. fs Mestre, whence the rly. crosses the Lagoon on a- vast viaduct. 2 M. long, on 222 arches (built 1841-45 ; cost $1,000,000). The passage by night seems a flight between sea and sky. Venice. Hotels. — Grand Hotel Royal Danieli, in Palazzo Dandolo; Europa, in Palazzo Giustiniani; Britannia/ Vittoria; Grand; Beauriuage; Italia; Monaco; Luna; Bellevuej Pension Suisse; d Angleterre; Accademia; Vapore. Restaurants. — Quadri j Bauer ; Fan Marco. Cafes. — Florian; Svizzero; Spxchi; Q> adrif Giardino Reale, — all on or near Piazza of St. Mark. Gondolas (one rower) for 1-6 persons, 1 1. per trip, or per hr. (two rowers, double price) ; from steamers to Piazzetta, 40 c. Baggage 15 c. each piece. Hotels To call a gondola, cry out Poppe. Numerous small steamboats (vaporetti) ply regularly on the, canals^ answering to the street-cars in other cities ; fare, 5 cv and 10 c. Venice is built on 117 islands in the Lagoon, with 150 canals and 378 stone bridges, and has 1)7,000 inhab., in maritime pursuits (commerce is increasing), and manufactures of books, mirrors, jewelry, brocades, laces, and glass (one factory is now 1,200 years old). It is 7 M. around, divided by the Grand Canal, shaped like an S, 2 M. long and 150-180 ft. wide. The La- goon is a shallow lake, 25x9 M. in area, connected with the Adriatic by 4 deep channels through long and narrow sandbanks, faced with vast masonry bul- warks. The main channels (23 ft. deep) admit the largest vessels. The tide rises and falls about Venice. A small canal is called rio ; a street, calle or lista/ a square, campoj small square, campiello; blind alley^ 314 THE PIAZZA DI SAN MARCO. eorte ; quay, fondamento, or riva. An adequate view of Venice requires 8-10 days ; the chief sights may be visited in 4 days. Por sight-seeing, the city may be cut into 5 parts, — the region E. and S. of Grand Canal ; the Grand Canal ; region N. and W. ; S. Gior- gio and Giudecca ; remoter islands. The Piazza di San Marco is a square, 576 ft. long and 185-270 ft. wide, paved with gray trachyte .and white Istrian marble, surrounded by time-stained marble palaces and St. Mark's Ch., and the picturesque centre of Yenetian life, especially at evening, when the bands play, and the cafes are crowded by thousands. Flocks of fat pigeons fed here by the city at 2 p.m. -daily for 700 years. The palaces enclosing 3 sides are -the Procuratie Vecchie (N. side), built 15th century for home of the Procurators (who ranked next to the Doge), and now used for business ; Procuratie Nuove (1584), on S. side, now the Royal Palace; and Nuovet Fabbrica (W. side, built by Napoleon in 1810, and the home of Austrian viceroys until 1866), now connected with Royal Palace (handsome rooms ; fee, 1 1.). The galace arcades are occupied by cafes and bric-a-brac shops. The vast isolated Gothic Campanile, dating from the beginning of the 10th century, was 322 feet in height. It fell to the ground on July 14, 1902, but a new campanile has been built, the first stone having been laid on St. Mark's Day (April 25), 1903. The pretty Loggetta was destroyed when the campanile fell, but it, too, has been restored. The Clock Tower (1496), across the Piazza, at entrance of Mer. ceria, Venice's chief business street, has a huge bell, ©n which two bronze Yulcans strike the hours. The 3 lofty cedar flagstaffs between the towers used to tear the banners of Cyprus, Candia, and the Morea, king* >doms tributary to Venice. VENICE. 315 The Cathedral of San Marco, on the E. side of the Piazza, is a magnificent piece of Venetian Byzantine architecture, built in 976-1071, in form of Greek cross, with 5 domes, 500 marble columns, and 46,000 sq. ft. of mosaics. Over the portal are 4 horses of gilded copper, of Roman workmanship, brought from Constantinople by Dandolo in 1204 ; carried to Paris, in 1797, as war trophies; and returned in 1815. Below and all around, and in the great entrance hall, and inside, are mosaics. 8 fine columns in vestibule ; also, 3 red slabs com- memorating the reconciliation of Barbarossa and Pope Alexander III. (1177) ; and the porphyry sarcophagus of Daniele Manin, last President of Venice (1848). The interior — Gautier's "a golden cavern, incrusted with precious stones, at once splendid and sombre, sparkling and mysterious " — is 258 X 210 ft. in area, with slippery and uneven 11th-century marble pave, ment, colored-marble pulpits, marble statues (made in 1393) of Christ and the Apostles, Sansovino's bronze statues of the Evangelists, and sumptuous chapels. See high altar, with canopy of verde-antico, over tomb of St. Mark the Apostle ; altar behind it, with 4 spiral alabaster columns, 2 of which belonged to Solomon's Temple ; Treasury, with Doge Morosmi's sword, St. Mark's throne, a bit of St. John's skull, piece of True Cross, etc. ; Sacristy (mosaics and inlaid work) and Crypt, with 64 columns ; Baptistery, with bronze font and tomb of Andrea Dandolo (1354) ; Zen Chapel, with magnificent tomb, altar, and statuary ; Sansovino's bronze door, leading to Sacristy ; etc. The Piazzetta is a small square, running from S. Marco to the Lagoon, on which stand 2 granite columns,, brought from Syria in 1120, and supporting statues of St. Theodore and the Winged Lion of St. Mark. On one side i,« the finelv sculptured Libreria Vecchia, built 316 DOGES' PALACE. — AKSENAL. by Sansovino in 1582, and now part of Royal Palace The great hall was frescoed by Veronese, for which Venice gave him a gold collar. Alongside is the old Mint, back of which is the Royal Garden. Opposite is the Doges' Palace, with facade 246 ft. iong, and facade of 234 ft. toward the sea. It was built in 800, and 5 times destroyed and re-erected. Most of present palace dates from 1350. The red and white marbles, Oriental designs, and Venetian- Gothic arches, combine very richly. 36 columns in lower arcade, and 71 above, in the rich Loggia, with quaint capitals. Ascend San- sovino's Giants' Staircase, between colossal statues of Mars and Neptune, where the doges were crowned ; and observe beautiful court, with statues, cisterns, and part of Silvio Pellico's cell. Inside, see Sansovino's Golden Staircase ; Hall of Great Council, 165 X 84 ft., with portraits of 76 doges, 21 vast old historical pic- tures, and Tintoretto's "Paradise;" Sala del Scrutinio, 39 doges' portraits, and many paintings ; Library, with famous MSS. ; Archceological Museum, 5 rooms of ancient marble sculptures ; Sola delta Bussola ; Hall of Council of Ten; and many others, crowded with paintings, and rich in historical associations. Obliging guardians in all rooms, with plans, etc. The Molo, headquarters of gondoliers, is connected with the busy quay of the Riva del Schiavoni by a bridge, whence good view of Bridge of Sighs, leading from the Palace to the Prison (1512-97), and made famous by Byron (Ruskin blames his " ignorant senti- mentalism "). You may visit the Rozzi, low dungeons where state-prisoners were deprived of light and (almost) of air ; and see where the political executions occurred, and bodies were given to the gondoliers. In the Arsenal (open 10-4), founded 1104, were built tne fleets of the Crusaders. 16,000 men were once em* VENICE. 617 ployed here (now 2,000). At portal, 4 marble lions, brought from Greece in 1697, one of which is said to have stood on Marathon. See military museum, Bu~ centaur, rare weapons, Henri IV.'s armor, Attila's helmet, etc. Take gondola and visit chs. E. and N. of Grand Canal. People help you ashore at landings, and expect a penny. The great Italian- Gothic Ch. of Santi Gio- vanni e Paolo is the Yenetian Pantheon, filled with imposing mausoleums of doges, statesmen, and warriors (see those of Mocenigo. Bragadino, the Valiers, Yen- dramin, and Giustiniani), and valuable old pictures and statues, In S. transept is a window of stained glass (1473), which is rare in Yenice. The ch. was founded in 1210 ; and the funerals of the doges always took place here. On adjacent square, see ancient equestrian statue of Colleoni, a Yenetian general. Close by is the richly carved Scuola di S. Marco (1485), once head- quarters of a charitable society, now part of vast hospi- tal. To S. Zaccaria (1157), a Romanesque ch., with paintings by Bellini, the doges used to go in solemn procession at beginning of Lent. S. Stefano, where Luther once said Mass, is 11th-century Gothic, with many statues and a beautiful cloister adjacent. See, in 8. Maria del Orto (14S1), splendid Tintorettos; S. Salvatore (1534), remarkable pictures ; S. Maria dei Miracoli (1430), a Byzantine Renaissance ch., encased in marble, with rich vaulting ; Gli Scalzi (1649), mag- nificent ch. of Carmelites, overladen with decorations of the Decadence; S. Francesco della Vigna (1534), rich carvings and chapels of nobles ; S. Pietro di Gastello, Yenice's cathedral from 1596 to 1807, with a fine cam- panile. A second trip may include the chs. S. and W. of the Grand Canal-. S. Maria della Salute (1631), whose high dome is conspicuous in pictures of Yenice, 318 FRARI. — GRAND CANAL. a sumptuous ch., with many statues and paintings, adjoining Patriarchal Seminary (with rich library and pictures) ; S. Sebastiano (1506), with tomb (see Latin epitaph) of Paul Veronese, and several of his paintings, and organ designed by him ; S. Pantaleone (1668), very ancient paintings; 8. Giovanni Elemosinario (1527), near Pialto ; S Giacometto (820), a venerable basilica. The vast Italian-Gothic Frari, or Franciscan ch. (1250), contains many famous works of art, costly modern monument of gray marble to Titian, tombs of Canova (designed by himself) and of several doges and generals. In monastery adjacent 300 rooms contain 14,000,000 documents, some dating from 883. S. Rocco (1490, rebuilt 1725) has fine paintings. Alongside is the splen- did Renaissance Scuola diS. Rocco (1415-1550), crowd- ed with pictures by Tintoretto (now sombre in tone), and with beautiful facade, staircase, and great halls. This council -hall of charity is grouped with the Pisan Campo Santo and the Sistine Chapel, by art-lovers. The Grand Canal should be traversed by gondola, between its lines of famous palaces. On the 1., see Doc/ ana (Custom-House), with statue of Portuna on tower ; f., Palazzo Giustiniani (Hotel Europa) and Emo-Trbves (with Canova' s Hector and Ajax; fee, 11.). On the 1., Patriarchal Seminary and S. Maria clella Salute. Thence the canal passes between palaces Tiepolo (Hotel Barbesi), Contarini, Perro, Pini-Wimp- ffen, Corner della Ca Grande, and Barbaro, on the r., and Dario-Angarani, Venier, Da Malay and Zichy- Esterhazy, on the 1., and then between Count Cham- bord's splendid Palazzo Cavalli (r.) and the vast Palazzo Manzoni-Angarini (1.) and under an iron bridge. Close to this, on 1., is the Accademia delle Belle Arti (daily, 9-4 ; 50 c. ; buy catalogue), with 700 fine pictures, mainly by Venetian masters, Titian, Bellini, VENICE. 319 Giorgione, Palma, etc., with some modern works, and many drawings by Raphael and Angelo, in noble old monastic halls. This is one of the great sights of Venice. Beyond (1.), see Palazzi Contarini, Rezzonico, G-iustinicmi, Foscari (here the canal bends), Balbi, Pisani, etc., and on r., Palazzi Gram, Moro-Lin, Con- tarini, and Mocenigo, the latter a triple palace, in which Byron wrote parts of Don Juan, etc. (1818), and where now is an art-colleetion. Farther on (r. i, see Palazzi Corner Spinelli, Cavallini, Grimani(Corted'Appello), Farsetti (town-hall), 12th-century Loredan (once home of King of Cyprus), Dandolo (Gothic), Bembo, and Manin (now National Bank). Then, half-way through the canal, comes the famous Rialto, a bridge of one Istrian-marble arch (15S8- 91), covered with shops, and running from the fruit- market to the fish-market. Below (1.), see Renaissance Palazzo de Camerlenghi (1525), opposite ponderous Fondacode' Tedeschi, built 1506 (frescoed by Titian) for a German warehouse. Beyond liialto, Pescheria (fizYi- rnarket), on 1. ; Palazzi Michieli and Sagredo, on r. ; Palazzo Corner della Regina (now pawn-office), on site of Catharine Cornaro's home (1.). Nearly opposite is the Ca d'Oro, Raskin's favorite, and a very noble palace. The Palazzi Eontana and Grimani are beyond (r.) ; also, Palazzo Pesaro (1.), whose rich halls are open daily (1 1.) Nearly opposite each other, see Palazzo Vendraniin Calerg/d, the magnificent modern palace of Count de Chambord (open daily, 1 1.), and the Fondaco de 1 Turchi, once headquarters of Turkish merchants (here see Comer Museum, open Wed. and Sat., 12-4, with MSS. and paintings about Venetian history). At the Palazzo Labia the Canareggio diverges to the r. It contains the Palazzo Manfrin, with large picture- gallery (open 10-3, | l.)„ Beyond iron bridge and rly. 320 S. LAZZ ARO. - MURANO. stat.j, the Grand Canal enters the Lagoon, by the island of S. Chiara. Near the stat. are the famous Papadopoli and Botanical gardens. The theatres are the Fenice, seating 3,000 people, Goldoni, Rossini, Marionette, and Malibran. See Tintoretto's house, in the Campo dei Mori; and Titian's house, in the Sanciano. Just S. of the city are the islands of La Giudecca, with Palladios Redentore ch. (Franciscan); and S. Giorgio Maggiore, with a great Benedictine monastery, cruciform ch. by Palladio, full of art- treasures, and campanile which gives superb view. Rather shabby Public Gardens, S.E. part of city. 2 M. S. E. is the island of S. Lazzaro, with great Armenian monastery. The islands were first colonized by fugitives from the mainland towns, ravaged by Attila. In 697 the first doge was chosen; and in 819 the present site of Venice became a capital. During the Crusades the republic grew rapidly, and conquered the coasts and islands of the Adriatic and Levant. For 300 years its power was vast, and Venice was Europe's chief port. In 1508 its star began to wane. By 1718 it was quite decadent. In 1797 the French captured the city, which was afterwards annexed to Austria. In 1866 it became Italian. Excursions. — To the Lido (ihr. by gondola; 60 c. to go and return; steamer in 12 min., 30c), the beach on the Adriatic, with fine baths (la Favorita, 1 1.) and summer-hotels. — To Malamocco, at S. end of Lido; and Chioggia (steamer, 1-^—21.), 30 M. S., an ancient lagoon-town (27,000 inhab.). — To the Cemetery, on 2 islands to the N., with S. Michele ch. (1466). Funeral processions of gondolas very interesting. — To Murano (4, 000 inhab.), li'M. N., with famous glass and mosaic factories, museum of old glass (40 c), a magnificent Cathedral (1111), and ch. of S. Pietro e Paolo (1509), FERRARA. 321 a noble and simple basilica. The Murano school of art preceded that of Venice. — To Torcello, 6 M. N. E. (2 hrs. by gondola), once rich and great, now poor and depopulated, but with a wonderful 7th-century Cathe- dral, famous for grand mosaics ; an octagonal Baptis- tery (1008) ; and S. Fosca, a strange 12th-century Byzantine ch., surrounded by arcades. Steamers, Tues., Thurs., and Sat. at midnight for Trieste (7 hrs.; fares, 12 1. 60; 8 1. 40. Ely. Venice to Trieste, 5f hrs. (fares, 27 f r. 40 ; 19 f r. 65). Ferrara, Bologna, Modena, and Parma* It is 1C1 M. (fares, 19 1. 45 c, 141. 5 c, 101.) from, Venice through venerable Padua; Rovigo (Corona Ferrea and other hotels), with its vast palace and pic- ture-gallery ; and Ferrara, to Bologna. Ferrara (Europa; Stella d'Oro; Pellegrino) , in a miasmatic piaiu near the Po, has shrunk from 100,000 to 79,000 inhab., and has many wide empty streets and crumbling palaces. In the golden era of the House of Este (1300-1600) it was famous for art and letters, and Ariosto and Tasso lived at its court. See Lombardic Cathedral (1135), imposing facade, many pictures, and handsome campanile (1550) ; S. Benedetto, with paint- ing of Paradise, in which Ariosto had his portrait in- troduced ; S. Francesco, several domes ; S. Maria in Vado, very aucient ; S. Paolo ; monuments to Ariosto and Savonarola; houses of Ariosto and Guarini; Uni- versity, with library of 100,000 vols. (MSS. of Pastor Fido, and parts of G-erusalemme and Orlando Furioso), museum, and tomb of Ariosto ; St. Anna's Hospital., where Tasso was imprisoned 7 years in a cell, since visited by Byron, Lamartine, and Goethe ; and Pa- lazzo de' Biamanti (1493-1567), with the Civic Picture- 21 322 BOLOGNA. Gallery (open 9-3, free), 8 rooms filled with ancient paintings. The Castle is a huge old square fortress, in the centre of Ferrara.with 4 towers, deep moats and frescoed halls. Is the scene of Byron's tragic Parisina. Bologna (iTo^eZ Brun; Grcond Hotel d Itolie; Pelle- grino), capital of Romagna (145,000 inh.) stands on a rich plain near the Apennines, and is surrounded by brick wall, 3-4 M. around, with 12 gates. An Etruscan town ; conquered by Gauls ; allied with Carthage : occupied by Rome, B.C. 190; then Greek, Lorn-baix^ Frank ; a free town under Charlemagne ; anti-imperial (Guelph) ; annexed to States of the Church in 1512, and to Italy in 1859. Its splendid Roman temples, theatres, and baths were swept away by the barbarians. It was the seat of the art-school of the Caracci ; and the home of Francia, Albano, Domenichino, Guido Reni, and Guerciuo (see houses of last two ; and of Rossini, the composer, a native of Bologna). S. Petronio (1390) is a vast Tuscan-Gothic ch. (half Snished), 384 ft. long, 156 ft. wide, with many rich chapels, mural paintings, and sculptures. Facade has many sculptures (made 1394-1525) of biblical sub- jects. Michael Angelo's statue of Pope Julius II. was broken in pieces by the people (1511). Charles V. was crowned Emperor here (1530). S. Domenico contains splendid tomb of St. Dominic, with sculptures by Michael Angelo; and tombs of Guido Reni and Elisabetta Sirani. The University is in Palazzo Veiled, with 1,400 students ; library of 150,000 vols. (open 9-3), once conducted by Mezzofanti ; large museums of geology, antiquities, etc. It dates from 1119, and once had 10,000 students, and several female professors. The Academy of Fine Arts (open 9-3.30 ; 1 1.) is one of the most famous in Italy, and has Raphael's St. Cecilia. The lluseo Civico is in the Palazzo Galvani (1 fr., Sun. and holidays free). BOLOGNA. 323 See, in S. Bartolommeo, horrible portrayal of martyrdom of St. Bartholomew; S. Cecilia (1481), frescos by Francia, and nunnery of St. Catherine Vigri; S. Stefano, a group of 7 chs., with rare old Celestine cloister ; S. Giovanni in Monte (a.d. 433), precious paintings; S. Vitale (a.d. 428), lately re- stored; and other very notable and ancient chs. Also, Palazzo Publico (1290), ancient frescos, statues, chapel, and Bramante's staircase; Palazzo del Podestd (1201), where King Enzio, son of the Emperor, was imprisoned many years; Oploteca, museum of weapons; leaning towers of Asinelli (1109; 272 ft. high; grand view of mts.) and Gari- senda (1110; mentioned in Dante's Inferno); Archi- ginnasio (1572), town library (open 10-4), museum of antiquities, Galvani's anatomical lecture-room; Pa- lazzo Bentivoglio, 16th century, on site of old Castle; Palazzo Fava, and Collegio di Spagna(lSQ4:), frescos by Caracci ; Loggia de* Mercanti (1294), venerable Gothic exchange; Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, and S. Domenico, fountain and statues; Palazzo Pepoli (1344), vast and imposing ; Palazzo Zampieri, with great picture-gallery (i 1.) ; and many other palaces. La Montagnola is a plateau and public garden, with views of Bologna and the Appenines. f M. S. is S. Michele in Bosco, orthopedic institute, for- merly convent founded by St. Basil in 4th century, in whose ch. and cloisters Guido and the Caracci left noble paintings. 2£ M. S.-W. is the Madonna di S. Luca, a pilgrimage-ch. on strongly fortified hill, approached by arcade 1 M. long (635 arches-; 100 years in building), and viewing Apennines and Adriatic. It contains portrait of the Virgin, ascribed to St. Luke, brought from Constantinople in 1160. On the way hither, visit La Certosa, a Carthusian monastery (1335), whose cloisters now con- i&m very interesting Campo /Santo (cemetery), with 324 MODENA. — PARMA. i rich monuments, a statue-adorned rotunda, and a col- ossal lion commemorating the martyrs for liberty. If you intend going S. to Rome, and thence N. along the Mediterranean, it is well to make a side- trip from Bologna to Modena (23 M.) and Parma (54 M.). Modena (Albergo Reale; S. Marco), an ancient ducal capital (58,000 inhab.), was once an important Roman town, where Antony besieged Brutus (b.c. 43), on the Via Emilia, from Rome to the N. A stately city, surrounded with ramparts, on which are prome- nades. See Cathedral (1099-1184), with Arthurian sculptures (1100), rose-window, monumental tombs, and lofty colonnaded crypt ; renowned Campanile, called La Ghirlandina (1224-1319), 335 ft. high, en- cased in white marble, with wooden bucket taken from the Bolognese in 1325 (Tassoni, who wrote a poem about it, has a statue near by) ; S. Michele, in which Muratori is buried; Begarelli's Pieta, which Michael Angelo praised; Public Gardens; and ramparts, with views of Appenines. The vast and m&gniticentPalazzo Meale (formerly Ducal Palace) has noble facade on Piazza Reale, and a courtyard surrounded by colon- nades. See Library, 120,000 vols, and 3,000 MSS. (14th-century edition of Dante); cabinets of medals and gems, and archives; large gallery of pictures (open 9-3), many of which are copies, a fact which the catalogue omits to state. Parma (Croce Bianca; Concordia; Italia), founded by the Etruscans; became Roman, b.c. 183; was Lombardic, a city of Charlemagne, of the Holy See, a Guelphic stronghold; seat of the Farnese princes, 1545-1731; and capital of Duchy from 1815 until 1859, when it fell to Italy (45,000 inhab.). The Ro- man Via Emilia cuts through its centre; and dreary, silent streets diverge on both sides. Parma is sur- KEGGIO. — RAVENNA. 325 rounded by great walls, with 5 gates and a strong citadel. See Romanesque Cathedral (13 century), with notable crypt, rich monuments, and Correggio's vast and world-renowned fresco of The Assumption; Baptistery (1196-1270), octagonal marble ch., with colonnades, quaint carvings, old frescos ; S. Giovanni Eoangelista (1510), remarkable frescos by Correggio in dome and cloisters ; Madonna delta Steccata (1521), fine frescos, and tombs of notables ; Convent of S. Paolo (50 c), with Correggio's famous lunettes and Diana; Farnese Theatre (50c); Stradone, promenade near citadel ; and Public Garden, with an old Farnese chateau, richly frescoed. The Ducal Palace (Farnese), founded 1597, has museums of antiquities and pictures (open 9-4 ; 1 1.), with many famous works of Correggio and the Caracci, including Correggio's Scala and Sco- della Madonnas and St. Jerome (II Giorno). The Library h?is 206,000 vols., and many Oriental MSS. Picturesque old road from Parma to La Spezia, on Gulf of Genoa. Reggio (Postal), between Parma and Modena, (50,000 inhab.), with notable walls, citadel, theatre, and cathedral, fine chs., and Ariosto's birthplace, is 9 M. from Correggio, the great artist's birthplace , and 4 hrs. drive from ruins of Canossa, where Henry IV. of Germany performed penance before Pope Gregory VII. (1077). Ravenna, Rimini, Ancona, Brindisi, and Taranto. From Bologna it is 52| M. (9|1. 3 61. 70 c, 4L 80 c.) to Ravenna ((Ifyrow; Spada d'Oro), a Thes- salian colony, once capital of Roman empire; captured by Odoacer and Theodoric; capital of the Gothic kings, 493-552 ; thence for 200 years capital of Exarchs; r,r 326 KAVENNA. — DANTE'S TOMB. governors sent by Greek emperors ; taken by Lom- bards, and by Pepin of France, who gave it to the Pope ; Venetian garrison, 1440-1509 ; and attached to States of the Church, 1509-1860. It is now a dreamy town of 62,000 inhab., very rich in early Christian art; and 5 M. from the Adriatic, of which it was once a chief port. Dante's Tomb (1482), a dome-covered structure, with carvings, contains the ashes (discovered in 1865 in ch. of S. Francesco) of the poet, who died here, in exile and under excommunication, in 1321. Byron lived at Ravenna 2 years, and wrote several great poems. See site of the house wh^re Dante lived; in Piazza Vittoria Emanuele, tall columns with statues, erected by the Venetians in 1494, and colon- nade of old basilica; Cathedral, on site of 4th-century ch., with 8th-century minaret-like campanile, 6th-cen- tury tombs, and silver crucifix, and paintings by Guido ; 4th-century octagonal Baptistery, with 5th-century font and mosaics (Baptism of Christ, etc.) ; Archiepisco- pal Palace, 5th-century chapel, 25,000 parchments in archives ; S. Apollinare, built in 500 by Theodoric for the Arians, and given by' Justinian to the Catholics, with round campanile, 24 columns from Constantinople, and many 6th-century mosaics ; S. Vitale, consecrated in 547 by St. Maximian, copied from S. Sophia, at Constantinople, octagonal, with massive pillars, many beautiful and brilliant mosaics of Justinian's time, Greek and Boman reliefs, and a dome of earthen vases bound together ; Mausoleum of Gall a Placidia, built 440 by Empress Galla Placidia, small domed cruciform ch., with mosaics, and sarcophagi of Honorius and Constantius III. (the only Boman emperors whose tombs remain undisturbed)', Academy of Fine Arh (75 c), pictures by Bavennese masters, vases, bronzes ; Library (open 9-2) of 50,000 vols., and many rare RIMINI. — SAN MARINO. 327 MSS. } in old Monastery of Classe, which has frescoed refectory ; S. Niccolb (760), now deserted ; S. Gio- vanni Evangelista (444), near rly. stat., 24 antique col- umns, and frescos by Giotto ; remains of Palace of Theodoric ; and many other old chs. and great palaces. Outside the Porta Serrata is the tomb of Theodoric the Great (530), a ponderous structure (now a ch.) covered with a block of Istrian stone 36 ft. in diameter. S. Maria in Porta Fuori, 2| M. out, is an open-roofed basilica (1096). S. Apollinare in Classe (a.d. 534), 3 M. out, is a magnificent basilica, with 24 cipolline columns, open roof, 6th-century mosaics, a noble altar, and portraits of 126 bishops of Ravenna, from St. Apollinaris (martyred a.d. 74) to the present. Beyond is La Pineta, the famous and venerable pine-forest, known to the Romans, praised by Byron, Boccaccio, Dante, etc., and covering many leagues. Highway along coast to Rimini, 31 M. The rly. S. E. from Bologna traverses Imola ; Castel Bolognese ; Faenza {Corona; Vittoria), a walled town of 20,000 inhab., with great citadel and potteries (whence Faience) ; Forli (17,000 inhab.), at foot of Apennines, with fine cathedral and castles; Cessna with handsome palaces and rare library; Rimini (Leon aVOro; Aquila d'Oro), a pretty city (33,000 inh.) and summer resort on the Adriatic, with magnificent class- ical cathedral, dilapidated Malatesta Palace, Roman triumphal arch and bridge, and house of Francesca da Rimini (25 1. for carriage thence, 15 M., to San Marino, capital of Republic of same name, the oldest govern- ment in Europe). The rly. follows the Adriatic to Pesaro, birthplace of Rossini, where there are fine chs., a rich library, and the old Palace of Dukes of Urbino, once a brilliant literary centre. Here Tasso wrote the Amadis. Diligence in 6 hrs. (21i M.) to 328 ANCONA. — PISTOJA. TJrbino (Italia), a town of 16,000 inhab., surrounded by sombre mts. Raphael's birthplace is shown ; also, grand Renaissance Ducal Palace, and chs. rich in art. Ancona (La Pace ; Vittorid) is built on an amphi- theatrical hillside facing the Adriatic, and has 46,000 inhab., with high-placed semi-Oriental cathedral (col- umns from the Temple of Venus), colossal statue of Cavour, handsome palaces, and (on the Mold) tri- umphal arch reared by the Roman Senate, a.d. 112, to Trajan, and another in honor of Pope Clement XII. 1*1-14 hrs. distant by rly. (621. 80 c, 441., 311. 40 c.) is Brindisi [International; Centrale; Europa; tolerable), once an important Roman naval station, and now the chief point of departure for fhe East Indies, on the mail-route from England to India. It is growing rapidly 27,000 inhab.), and is visited bj steamers for Adriatic, Greek, Italian, and Levantim ports (3 clays to Alexandria). Here the Appian Wa) ended; and here Virgil died. 52f M. hence by rly. (10 1. 60 c, 6 1. 70 c, 4 1. 80 c.) to Otranto, a port on the heel of the Italian boot. Br. ry. from Bari to Taranto (Aquila oVOro; Europa), with richly decorated Cathedral and strong castle. Ancona to Rome by rly., 183 M. (351., 241. 70 c). Few tourists will go S. of Ravenna on this coast. Bologna to Florence, in 82 M. (5-6 hrs. ; fares, 141. 20 c, 101. 45 c, 71. 55 c), by remarkably pictu- resque rly. across the Apennines, with many very costly bridges, tunnels, galleries, and viaducts, and down to the rich Tuscan plains (superb views) . Pistoja ( Gloho) is an ancient town of 13,000 inhabitants, at foot of Apennines, rich in 13th and 14th-century sculptures, and a favorite summer-resort for Florentines. Pistols are named from this town. Catiline was defeated and killed near by. See, in 12th-century Cathedral, monu- FLORENCE. 329 ments, choir-stalls, and silver altar ; Campanile, once a fortified tower ; Italian-Gothic Baptistery, of black and white marble; S. Andrea, splendid pulpit (12&8-1301) and carved architrave; several other rich chs. and massive old palaces; and suburban Villa Puccini, in beautiful gardens. Pistoja to Pisa, 40| M. (6 1. 60 c, 5 1. 35 c, 4|1.) ; to Florence, 21^ M. ; 45 min. Florence. k Hotels : Grand ; Florence and Washington ; New York', Italie; de la Ville; Palace; Cavour; d' Europe; Porta Rossa; Victoria-, Alliance; Anglo- American; Minerva Paoli; Albion; Bristol; Grande Bretagne. There are also many excellent pensions where those making a long stay can live cheaply and well. Furnished apartments may also be had reason- ably, meals being prepared at home, sent in from one of the trattorie, or taken in the restaurants. Theatres: Nicolini; della Pergola; Politeama Nazionale (fine summer theatre) ; Verdi; Alhambra. British, Yia Tornabuoni, No. 2. Florentia was founded by the Romans, before Christ ; ravaged by the barbarians ; rose to great commercial importance by 1100 ; suffered from centuries of civil conflicts and foreign wars ; ruled by the Medici family, X434-1737 ; by dukes of the house of Lorraine, 1737 -I860 ; and was capital of Italy, 1864-70. Since 1870 it has fallen into decay and financial embarrassment, but is a favorite winter-resort, by reason of its vast art-treasures, natural beauty, and cheapness of living. It stands on a narrow plain, partly surrounded by the Apennines and their foot-hills, and cut in two by the river Arno, which is nearly dry in summer. There are 200,000 inhab. 330 PALAZZO VECCHIO. — UFFIZI GALLERY. The Piazza della Bignoria, the central square*, forum of the Republic, and present business-centre, ie adorned by bronze equestrian statue of Cosmo, marble lion, and Neptune Fountain, erected in 1564-75, on site of Savonarola's martyrdom. Here fronts the Palazzo Vecchio (buiit 1298), once capitol of He- public and palace of Cosmo I., and now town-hall, ■ — a tall, massive, and formidable fortress-palace. Enter (by Bandinelli's statues of Hercules and Cacus) the court- yard, with Michelozzi's dainty arabesques, Yasari's fountain, Verocchio's statue of a boy. The Hall of the Great Council was built in 1495, at Savonarola's order. Italian Parliament sat here, 1865-70. Yasari and oth- ers made many of the frescos ; and two very famous cartoons were drawn by Leonardo and Angelo, for this hall. See Hall of the Two Hundred, used by town- council ; Hall of the Lilies, with rich marble work ; and Medici apartments. Campanile built by Arnolfo del Cambio, 308 ft. high (450 steps), gives a grand view. Its bell was the rallving-souncl in the civil wars. In front is the Loggia dei Lansi, a very graceful arcade built in 1376 for Cosmo's guards of lancers ; later, a tribune whence the people were harangued ; and now containing celebrated statues, — Benvenuto Cellini's "Perseus," Donatello's '•'Judith," Giovanni da Bo- logna's " Hercules," etc. Alongside Palazzo Yecchio, see Palazzo JJguccione, planned by Raphael ; opposite which is new Palazzo Fenzi, in Early Florentine style. Between Yecchio and Loggia, enter Portico degli Uffizi, built by Yasari, 1560-74, with marble statues of 24 famous Tuscans. On r., entrances to Mint, now Post- Office ; on 1. , to the world-renowned -Uffizi Gallery (open 10-4, adm. 1 fr., Sundays free; catalogues, 3^- 1.), the vast art-collections made by the Medici and Lorraine dynasties. See Niooe FLORENCE. 331 &a 7 l. siQ.l'4ae.statues of Niobe and her children ; hall of portraits of painters, made by themselves ; Tribuna, with Venus de Medici, Wrestlers, Apollino, and many celebrated paintings ; cabinets of gems, cameos, bronzes, and vases ; vast collections of Memish, German, Dutch, and Venetian pictures ; and masterpieces of Raphael, Titian, Correggio, etc. The National Library (open 10-4) has 480,000 vols., 18,000 MSS., rare books, and the great Tuscan archives. The grand and massive Pitti Palace, S. of the Arno,. was begun in 1410, on Brunelleschi's plans, for the merchant Pitti, whose heirs sold it in 1559 to the Medici, who made it their home, and had Vasari join it to the Palazzo Vecchio by a corridor 1,800 ft. long (now tilled with rare drawings by Italian masters). Tiie Pitti is occasionally occupied by the king. Its front (121 ft. high) is of enormous blocks of stone, 20-25 ft. long. On the second floor is a gallery (Tue., Thurs., Sun., 10-4) of 500 fine old pictures, in 13 magnificent sa- loons, richly frescoed and adorned with tables and cabinets of marble, alabaster, malachite, and mosaic. Here are some of the best works of Raphael, Titian,, etc. The Boboli Garden (open Tries., Thurs., Sun., 12-6), back of the palace, was laid out in 1500, and its hill-terraces command noble views of Florence (especially from Belvedere) . See ampitheatre, grotto, obelisk, Neptune's statue (by Giovanni da Bologna), etc. Near the Pitti is the extensive and valuable Mu- seum of Physics, with Galileo's first telescopes, and one of his fingers ; also rare botanical collections. The Academy of Fine Arts (open 10-4, 1 1. ; Suns, and festivals free) contains schools of design, painting, architecture, music, mechanism, chemistry, etc., and a noble collection of old religious pictures snowing the development of Tuscan art. The lowei 332 NATIONAL MUSEUM. — CATHEDRAL. halls contain modern paintings. The court is decorated with reliefs by Luca della Robbia. In second court is Michael Angelo's celebrated statue of David. Floren- tine Mosaic-factory in same building (museum open daily). Close by, in cloisters of the Scaizo, fine frescos by Andrea del Sarto ; also Medicean Casino, built 1570. In same square is Ch. of S. Marco (1290), with many pictures and statues, and tombs of Politian and Pico della Mirandola. Next door is the famous old Domini- can Monastery of S. Marco, now occupied by a museum (open 10-4, 1 1. ; free Sun. ; guide-book, \\\.) of choice works of old masters, great number of frescos by Era Angelico, etc., in cloisters, cells, and refectory. See cell of Savonarola. Fra Angelico, Fra Bartolommeo, St. Antoninus, and Politian were monks here. The dccademia della Or^sca, founded in 1582 to preserve the purity of the Italian language, is established here. The National Museum (open 10-4, 1 1. ; Sun. free) has a hall of mediseval bronzes, w T ith Giovanni da Bologna's celebrated " Mercury," Douatello's "David," "St George," and 8 other works; Carrand collection of paintings; a collection of weapons; statuary by Angelo, Baudinelli, etc.; ancient furniture ; faience; celebrated fiescos by Giotto, in old chapel; rich terra- cottas ; stained glass, etc. It is in the Palazzo del Podesta, or II Bargello, built 1256 for the Florentine chief magistrate ; fortified 1317 ; and often assailed by the populace. The curfew was sounded from the cam- panile. The prisons and torture-rooms were here. See picturesque court. The Cathedral of hia. Maria del Fiore (so called from the lily in the arms of Florence), one of the grand- est Gothic chs. of Europe, was built 1294-1474, by Arnolfo, Giotto, Gaddi and Orcagna, on site of older eh. of S. Reparata, and is 556| ft. long, and 342 ft. FLORENCE. 333 wide (at transepts), with walls of beautiful white and colored marbles. The nave is 154 ft. high. Beautiful porch on Via Ricasoli, with pillars resting on backs of lions •, and over the door statues by Donatello and Jacopo della Querela. The interior is impressive, but simple, with huge pillars flanking the lofty nave, rich marble-mosaic pavement, and stained windows. See Jacopo della Quercia's "Madonna," Uccello's frescos, Gaddi's mosaics, Angelo's " Entombment ; " bronze doors, by Luca della Robbia; statues, portraits, and tombs of many celebrated Florentines. It is a perfect treasure-house of art. The stained glass was designed by Ghiberti and Donatello, and made at Lubeck. The Dome, 352 ft. high, made by Brunelleschi (1421-36) is higher than that of St. Peter's, and may be ascended (463 steps ; 57 more to the Cross ; fee, 1 1.). Interest- ing details, and grand view. King Victor Emmanuel laid foundations of new main facade in 1860. In this ch. Giuliano de' Medici fell under the daggers of the Pazzi ; the Greek Emperor offered to become Catholic ; and Frederick II. of Germany knighted many of his fierce captains. In the Opera del Duomo is the Cathedral Museum {\ fr.). The Italian-Gothic Campanile, the most marvellous beR-tower in the world, is Giotto's noblest work (1334-36). It is 292 ft. high, in 4 stories, of which the uppermost is superbly decorated, with delicate tracery around windows, and many statues and reliefs by Giotto, Donatello, and other masters. The tower is built of variegated marbles. Fee to ascend, 1 1. Noble view of Florence and Apennines (414 steps). Along- side is the famous ch. of the Misericordia, whose cowled brethren are often seen upon the streets and opposite is the Canonry, with statues of Arnolfo and Brunelleschi. See Sasso di Dante, near by, a stone oo which Dante used to sit. 334 BAPTISTERY. The Baptistery of S. Giovanni (6th century;, oppo- site the Cathedral, is an octagonal marble ch., 94 ft. in diameter, with dome. Until 1128 it was used as a cathedral. Here are Ghiberti's celebrated bronze doors (1408-52), with 10 Old-Testament scenes, and 28 from life of Christ and early Church history. Michael Angelo declared these worthy to be the gates of Paradise (see also George Eliot's Romola). At the sides are two porphyry columns, given by Pisa in 1200. Bronze door on S., scenes from life of St. John, made by Andrea Pisano (1408-30). Inside are many statues, dim old mosaics, Oriental-granite col- umns, and tomb of Pope John XXIII. SS. Annun- ziata (1250) contains Andrea del Sarto's best works, sumptuous chapels, and cloisters. S. Croce, built (1294-1442) by Arnolfo and Yasari, is an imposing cruciform basilica, with modern facade of black and white marbles (1863), high tower, and rich cloisters and refectory (many paintings). In this vast old Floren- tine Pantheon are the tombs of Galileo, Michael Angelo, Macchiavelli, Raphael Morghen, Lanzi, Cherubini, Ugo Poscolo, and other great men; and monuments to Dante and Alfieri. Rare treasures of art, including many frescos by Giotto. In front, see noble modern statue of Dante. S. Lorenzo, consecrated by St. Ambrose in 393, and rebuilt by the Medici in 1425, from Brunelleschi's and Michael Angelo' s plans, is a sumptuous Romanesque ch., resting on 14 tall Corinth- ian columns, and containing tomb of Cosmo, "Pather of his People ; " and sculptures by Donatello, Brunelleschi, Michael Angelo, and Thorwaldsen. In new Sacristy are Angelo's Twilight, Dawn, Day, and Night, over the tombs of the Medici. The Chapel of the Princes (1604), erected by the Medici at a cost of $4,400,000, for their sepulchres, is a dome-covered octagon, lined FLORENCE. 335 with precious marbles, mosaics, and frescos. Adjacent, see Laurentian Library (open 9-3 ; \-\ 1.), founded 1444 by Cosmo, in building planned by Michael Angelo. Priceless old vols, and 8,000 MSS., many of ' them rare, by Dante, Alfieri, Petrarch, Boccaccio, and of Virgil, iEschylus, etc. j S. Maria Novella (1278-1371) is a beautiful cV of black and white marbles, with arcades, and attractive interior, on slender pillars. See Ghirlandajo's famous frescos, in choir ; Brunelleschi's crucifix, in Gondi Chapel ; Cimabue's Madonna, borne in triumph by the Florentines from the studio to the ch. ; Orcagna's frescos, in Strozzi Chapel, and in Green Cloister ; vast Giottesque frescos, in Spanish Chapel; and Great Cloisters, the largest in Florence. See, also, in S. Maria Maddalena, fresco by Perugino; La Badia, with ancient tombs and tall tower ; Or San Michele, built in 1284 by Arnolfo for a corn-hall, and made a- Gothic ch. in 1337-55, with many statues by the great masters, and altar by Orcagna (1359) ; S. Trinita (1250) ; Carmine (1422), with cloisters, and Masaccio's famous frescos (studied by Perugino, Raphael, An- gelo, and Leonardo). See, also, Marucellian library, 70,000 vols. ; Riccardian library, containing oldest MS. in existence (Pliny) ; houses of Benvenuto Cel- lini, Dante, Ghiberti, Bianca Capello, Amerigo Ves- pucci, Galileo, Macchiavelli, Guicciardini, Andrea del Sarto ; the great hospitals, decorated by the masters (especially Poundling Hospital, S. Maria Nuova) ; busy Mercato Nuovo ; and interesting great Egyptian and Etruscan Museum (open 9-3 ; 1 1.), in refectory of old Convent of S. Onofrio, vases, reliefs, implements, etc., and fresco (1505) of "Last Supper;" and house of Michael Angelo (daily, 10-4; -£- f r. ; Hon., Thurs., free) , with museum of works &nd relics of Angelo. There are scores of huge old palaces, mainly by 336 LUNG' ARNO. illustrious architects. Among them, see Ridolfi (Hue cellai), which was sacked by the people in 1527 ; Altoviti, with marble portraits of famous Florentines ; Corsini, very elegant, with large picture-gallery (open lues., Fri., and Sat.) ■ Strozzi, 3 vast facades, a very perfect and imposing palace, with picture-gallery (open) : Ric- cardi (1434), original and stately home of the Medici (see chapel and courts) ; Fontebuoni, where Alfieri died; Spini, now municipal offices; Manelli (1565); Panciatichi, with picture-gallery ; and Torrigiano, with large gallery (open daily) and famous gardens. The Arno is bordered by the handsome old quays of the Lung' Arno, on both sides, and crossed by the picturesque Ponte Vecchio (1362), covered with shops; elegant Ponte S. Trinita, built 1252 ; Ponte alia Car- raja (1218), often restored; Ponte alle Grazie (1235) ; and 2 suspension-bridges. The Via dei Calzajuoli, from cathedral to Uffizi, and Via Tornabuoni are the busiest streets. There are many picturesque squares, adorned with statues and fountains. Excursions. — The Cascine, a narrow park extend- ing 2 M. along the Arno, just W. of Florence, has favorite rambles and drives (military music, zoological garden, etc.). — Along the Viale dei Colle to Piazza Michael Angela, a beautiful esplanade (dedicated 1875), witli monument and bronze copies of Angelo's works. — S. Miniato is a beautiful ch. on far- viewing hill on E., in Pisan-Florentine architecture (1013), with rich facade, mosaics, 14 great marble columns, open roof, notable crypt, niello mosaic pavement (1207), and finely frescoed sacristy. Charming view of Florence. — Bello Sguardo, just S. W. of Florence, commands a iamous view over city and mts. — The Poggio Im- periale, once a ducal villa, now a nuns' school, is out- side and above the Porta Romana, reached by fine aveaiue of trees. NBasT!^ fe the tower "wliieJa was FIESOLE. — VALLOMBROSA. 337 Galileo's observatory ; also, villa where lie lived, 1631-42, and was visited by Milton. In adjacent villa, Guicciardini wrote the history of Italy. — La Certosa, 3 M. from Porta Romana, is a rast and fortress-like Carthusian monastery, built 1341, from Orcagna's plans. Fine paintings, monuments, etc., in en,, cloisters, and chapter-house (11.). — Monte Oli- veto, 1 M. from Porta S. Frediano, is a monastery (1331), whence grand views. — Villa San Donato (Demidoff), open Mon. and Fri. (5 1.). — Villa Ca- reggi, 2-3 M. N., once seat of Medici and Platonic Academy. Cosmo and Lorenzo died here. — Poggio a Cajano, royal villa, 12 M. N. W. ; and Villa delict Petraia, another royal residence. — Pratolino, former forest-palace of Medici. Fiesole, 3 M. N. of Florence, beyond convent where Fra Angelico dwelt, was an Etruscan city, and retains parts of vast walls. See also Cathedral (1028), and old palaces adjacent; Franciscan convent, on site of Acropolis; ancient theatre (50c); splendid abbey; and fascinating views of Yal d' Arno. Vallombrosa, 18 M. distant, among the Apennines, may be visited in a day. Yast abbey, founded 1050, now a school of forestry. 1 hr.'s climb hence to top of Pratomagno, 5,323 ft. high, with noble view to Medi- terranean. Excursion also to very picturesque Casen- tino region, and grand old abbeys of Camaldoli and Aloernia. Arezzo, Orvieto, Perugia, fc'oligno, Siena, From Florence we would recommend you to go to Rome by the shortest route, through. Arezzo, Orvieto, and Orte (195f M. ; fares, 33 1. 85 c, 23 1. 30 c, 16£ 1. ; by express -trains, 381. 5c, 261.40 c). Fares by express fr«na Florence to Arezzo, 54* M ., 10 1. 10 c, 7 1. 5c. 338 AREZZO. — PERUGIA. Beautiful mt. scenery on the long ascent to A.rezzo(¥itto?'ia; La Stella; Ing7iilterra),2tf\ ancient Etruscan city "which became an aliy of Rome, B.C. 310. Here Maecenas, Vasari, Petrarch, and other famous men were born. It now has 18,000 inhab. See Italian- Gothic Cathedral (1177), with many pictures, tombs, etc. S. Maria della Pieve, remarkable i a fade ; S. Fran- cesco, interesting frescos ; Museum, majolicas, bronzes, antiques ; Abbey of S. Flora ; old palaces, clis., and statues. Cortona (Nazionale), another Etruscan town, has great Cathedral, Museum, vast Etruscan walls, and fortress (superb view). Rly. runs near Lake Thrasymene and the lovely Yal di Chiana. Orvieto {Belle Arti ; Aquila Bianca : omnibus from stat., 1 1.) stands on a lofty volcanic rock ; and has a magnificent Cathedral (1290-1600) of black and white marble, with nave 111 ft. high, crowded with mosaics, carvings, shrines, and frescos by Luca Signorelli and Era An- gelico. The route hence to Rome leads by Monte Rotondo and Mentana, where Garibaldi was defeated in 1867- A longer rly. route to Rome leads from Cortona. along Lake Thrasymene (30 X 8 M. in area; near by, Hannibal annihilated the Roman army, B.c. 217), to Perugia ( Grand; Palace; Grande Bretagne; Belle Arti). once Etruscan, now capital of Umbria (19,000 inhab.), with 103 chs. and 50 monasteries. See great 15th-century Cathedral ; S. Pietro de > Casinense, 18 antique columns, choir-stalls designed by Raphael ; S. Severo, with Raphael's first fresco ; S. Domenico, tomb of Pope Benedict XI. ; University (50 c), founded 1320, with large gallery of Umbrian pictures, antiqui- ties, etc. ; Arch of Augustus, an ancient city-gate ; Perugino's house ; Etruscan cemetery ; and confections in several palaces. Superb views over Tiber valley and SIENA. 339 Apennines. Assisi, perched on a high hill, was the birthplace of St. Francis, and has vast Franciscan mon- astery (fee to monk, 1 1.), and its wonderful Gothic double ch., with frescos by Giotto and Cimabue, and other treasures. Foligno (23,000 inhab.) has 6 inter- esting clis. Within 50 years it has suffered 4 severe earthquakes. The rly. thence to Rome passes Trevi, Spoleto, and Term (beautiful falls here). A still longer route is from Florence to Siena (59 M. ; fares, 101.85 c, 7|1., 5 1.30 c), passing Certaldo, where Boccaccio died ; and Poggibonsi (whence carriages to San Gimignano, with enormous walls, interesting chs., and many works of art. Siena {Hotel de Sienne; Continental), city of 23,000 (once 200,000) inhab., celebrated for ancient school of devotional art, for pretty women, healthy climate, and purity of language. Sieges and wars innumerable have distressed it. See vast and superb 13th-century Cathe- dral, of red, white, and black marbles, abounding in sculptures and paintings, rose windows, choir-stalls, etc. ; Library (1495), frescos by Pinturicchio and Ra- phael ; notable Campanile, Baptistery ', and Pellegrinajo hospital ; S. Domenico, S. Francesco, S. Bernardino, and other chs. ; Oratory of St. Catherine of Siena ; Institute of Fine Arts (open 9-3), with valuable Sienese pictures, including Sodoma's " Descent from the Cross ; " Pa- lazzo Publico (1293-1309), with many stately and richly furnished halls ; Campanile, which Leonardo da Vinci admired; handsome Palazzo del Govemo (1469), with 30,000 parchments, some dating from 814 ; Loggia di S. Paolo (1417) ; other palaces of nolle period of archie tecture ; the Fonte Gaja and Fonte Branda ; La Lizza, the promenade; the University; the Opera del Du- omo, now Cathedral Museum... Excursions to ISOs- servanza monastery and Belcaro castle. 340 ROME. Rome. Hotels.— Quirinal; Regina; Grand; Royal; Excelsior; Bristol; de Russie; Savoy; Beau-Site; Eden; Palace; Berto- UnVs Splendid; Suissn; Primavera; Victoria; Anglctcrre; Italic; Hassler (German); Anglo - Amcricainc; Marini; Michel; Campidoglio; Laurati; Helvetia; Minerva; Milano; National. There are also many good pensions suitable for a long stay. Permits to visit Vatican and many villas and palaces obtained from hotel proprietor or guide, or from appointed officials. Get Baedeker's Central Italy, compact and practical ; Hare's WalliS in Rome; Murray's Rome is good reading, but bulky ; Hachette's Rome et ses Environs is good. Old travelers advise that mornings at Rome be given to the chs. and palaces, and afternoons to the classic ruins and fragments of the Imperial city. A visit to Rome is the most interesting experience in the course of a European tour. No adequate idea of the city can be gained in less than 10-12 days. If the traveller can give it but 7-8 days, he should devote the time equally between the classic remains and the great chs. and modern institutions. American Ch. of St. Paul, on Via Nazionale. Tradition ascribes the founding of Rome to Romulus and Remus, B.C. 753. It is probably much older. King Tarquin was expelled, B.C. 509; the republic lasted 480 years, conquering the Etruscans, Samnites, Gauls, Lucanians, etc. B.C. 390 the Gauls took Rome. Then came wars with Carthage (B.C. 264-241, 219-202, and 149- 146); conquest of Corsica (238), Sicily (241), Spain (B.C. 197- 178), Greece (B.C. 214-205, 200-197, 172-168, and 146) , Pergamus (129), Provence (118), and Gaul (58-50). B.C. 29, Augustus Caesar became emperor. 47 legions garrisoned the vast empire. Constantine (324-337 a.d.) made Christianity the State religion, but removed the capital of the empire to Constantinople. Rome was sacked by Alaric 410, then by ROME. 341 Qenseric, and finally by Odoacer (476), who annihilated the Roman empire. In 546 and 549 the Goth Totila took the city. Leo the Great (440-461) and Gregory the Great (590- 604) founded the papal power, which was solidified by Pepin (755) and Charlemagne (800). Rome, " the Eternal City," the capital of Italy (430,000 inhab.), is on the river Tiber, 15% M. from its mouth, and near the centre of the broad and desolate Campagna. The Tiber runs for 3 M. through Rome, with the low Vatican aud Janiculan Hills on the r., and on the 1. the circle of the Pincian, Quirinal, Viminal, Esquiline, Cselian, and Aventine Hills, surrounding the Palatine aud Capitoline Hills (the last 7 are the famous "Seven Hills"). The space within the walls is about the same as in Aurelian's time, but -f of it is in gardens and ruins. As in the Augustau age, it is divided into 14 Rioni, or wards. The ecclesiastical population is 7,500. Many of the streets are narrow and unattractive ; but the Corso, Yia Babuino, Ripetta, and a few others are filled with splendid shops and animated crowds. There are 7 bridges over the Tiber. The river often overflowed its banks and made lakes of the lower squares before embankments were built. The walls of Rome are of brick, 14 M. around, and 55 ft. high, and about 1600 years old, though restored by Theodoric, Belisarius, etc. There are 12 gates now open, and several closed. On N. is Porta del Popolo, built in 1561 by Vignola; next is Pinciana, closed in 1808 ; then Salara (closed), flanked by towers, where Alaric entered Rome ; Pia, built from Angelo's designs in 1564, and breached by Italian batteries in 1870 \ Nomentana, closed since 1564 ; Tiburtina, long ago sealed up ; S. Lorenzo, built by Honorius, over the Tivoli road ; the rly. gate ; Porta Maggiore, part of Claudian Aqueduct (a.d. 52), made a gate by Aurelian, 342 AQUEDUCTS. — PIAZZA DEL POPOLO. and a fortress by the Colonnas, and commanding the Pales trina road ; , S. Giovanni, built in 1574, over Al- bano road ; Asinaria (now closed), where Belisarius marched into Rome ; Metronia, closed ; Latina (closed 1808), over Via Latina, to Capua ; S. Sebastiano, with towers and pinnacles, over Appian Way; S. Paolo, at foot of Aventine, over road to Ostia. On W. bank of Tiber, Porta Portese, close to river ; S. Pancrazio, on Janiculan Hill, stormed by French troops in 1849, and ruined by their artillery ; Cavalleggieri, close to St. Peter's, where the army of the Constable de Bourbon entered in 1527, and the French were repulsed in 1849 ; Fabbrica (closed) ; Angelica, over route to Monte Mario ; and Castello (closed). The Aqueducts give a noble idea of Roman archi- tecture and bold conception, with their vast arcades running for leagues over the Campagna. The Aqua Marcia, built B.C. 146 and restored in 1869, brings the purest of water from the Sabine mts., 56 M. away. The Aqua Claudia (a.d. 50) leads from near Subiaco, 58f M. The Aqua Trajana leads from Bracciano, 35 M. The Aqua Virgo, built by Agrippa, for his baths, leads from a spring 14 M. out on the Campagna, and breaks out in the Fountain of Trevi. The Aqua Felice (built by Sixtus Y., in 1585) leads from the Alban mts., 21 M. Rome is thus copiously supplied. The Piazza del Popolo, the focus at N. gate of Rome to which the great streets Babuino, Corso, and Ripetta converge, is adorned with an Egyptian obelisk (set up here in 1589), fountains, aud statues. S. Maria del Popolo (1099), on haunted burial-place of Nero, has many prelates' tombs, rich paintings, and a beau- tiful chapel by Raphael. 2 other high-domed chs. front on the Piazza. Hence ascend drives to the fa- vorite Roman park and promenade, on the Pincian Hill ROME 343 (once Lucullus's gardens), with grand views. The Villa Medici (1540) is now seat of French art-aca- demy and collections (open daily, except Sat.). The Villa Borghese, outside Porta del Popolo, has lovely gardens, with Raphael's villa, and a casino devoted to sculptures (including Canova's Pauline Bonaparte) and paintings. The Piazza di Spagna contains Bernini's Bar- caccia fountain; Pius IX's Column of the Immaculate Conception (with 5 statues); the Palace of Spain (Spanish embassy) ; and College of Propaganda Fide (1662). The famous Spanish Staircase ascends hence to SS. Trinita de' Monti (1495), a stately ch. with many paintings and charming music (by nuns). At foot of Spanish Stairs, on left, is the house in which Keats passed the last 4 months of his life, and in which he died on the night of February 23-24, 1821. A commemorative tablet is placed on the house on a level with the apartment occupied by Keats and his friend and devoted nurse, the painter Joseph Severn, who is buried beside him in the Protestant cemetery. This house is now owned by the Keats-Shelley Memorial Association, and was purchased by a fund contributed by English and Americans. The rooms of the Keats apartment have been fitted up by addi- tional funds furnished by Americans and are devoted in large part to a library of the works, portraits and other memorials of Keats and Shelley (open daily, 50c.) One of the rooms, furnished by members of the New York Stock Exchange, is dedicated to the memory of the late Edmund Clarence Stedman. The Corso is over 1 M. long, on site of Via Fla- minia. Leaving Piazza del Popolo, it passes Palazzo Rondanini, with unfinished Pieta by Michael Angelo; Goethe's house (No. 20); great Hospital of Incur- ables (founded 1338); Palazzo Ruspoli (1586); /SI 344 PALACES ON THE CORsG. Lorenzo in Lucina (in Piazza to r.), with tomb of N Poussin; Palazzo Fiano ; Palazzo Teodoli ; S. 8il vestro in Capite (built 757-67), and English Ch (1874) in side-street; old Palace of Knights of MaUa ; Palazzo Torlonia ; and Palazzo Chigi (1526), with val. uable art-collections and library. Here opens the handsome Piazza Colonna, with the Column of Mar- cus Aurelius, 95 ft. high, adorned with spiral reliefs o f Aurelius's wars on the Danube. On one side sei palace with fine Ionic columns from Etruscan Veii beyond which is Piazza di Monte Cittorio, with Italia* Parliament House, in palace built by Bernini. I front, note obelisk, brought by Augustus from Egyp' Other two sides of Piazza Colonna are formed by P lazzi Piombino and Ferajuoli. Farther down Cors on little square, is very handsome Palazzo Sciarra Colonna, with a fine picture-gallery. Farther on, opposite Palazzo Simonetti, see ch. of 8. Marcello (a.d. 499), with ancient paintings and Consaivi's tomb. Next comes (on r.) vast and splendid Palazzo Doria (open Tues. and Fri. : il.), with large arcaded courtyard, and gallery of 800 paintings (catalogues in each room), including works of llaphael, Claude, Titian, Poussin, etc. Opposite is Palazzo Salviati, back of which is Colonna Palace. Beyond the Palazzo Bonaparte (in which died the mother of Napoleon I.) is the Piazza di Venezia, at end of Corso, on which fronts the imposing castellated Palazzo di Venezia (1455), which Pius IV. gave to Venice (now Austrian embassy). Near by, see Palazzo Torlonia, famous for its works of art ; 8. Marco (a.d. 325 ; rebuilt in 833), with mosaics and paintings; popular and gorgeous Jesuit Ch. of Gesu( 1568-77), lined with costly marble, with columns of lapis lazuli and gilder] bronze, many statues, and tomb of St. Ignatius Loyola, Adjacent is the former Jesuit monastery, with Loyola's cell, etc. ROME. 345 The Tomb of Augustus (-J- 1.), where Augustus, Mar- cellus (see Virgil), and other emperors and princes were buried, afterwards became a fortress of the Colonnas, and a ring for bull-fights, and is now but partly preserved, near the Ripetta,or harbor for barges and steamers. The Palazzo Borghese (1590) is a huge and splendid palace, with arcaded courts. The picture-gallery has been removed to the Casino of the Villi, Borghese, outside of the Porta del Popolo (daily 11-5, adm. lfr.; Sun. 10-1, free). In this wonderful collection see especially Domenichino's Sibyl and Diana, Titian's Sacred and Profane Love, Raphael's Entombment, Madonna, and Caesar Borgia, and Correggio's Danae. The Quirinal Palace (1574-1605), on high and healthy ground, was a favorite summer-home of the Popes until 1870, since which the King of Italy has occupied it. Pius VII. was imprisoned here in 1809 by Napoleon; and here he died in 1823. See frescos in Sala Regia; Pauline Chapel, a fac-simile (in form) of the Sistine ; Audience Hall ; frescos by Raphael, Overbeck,etc. ; and apartments of Napoleon, Emperor Francis I., and King Francis II. of Naples. In front is Piazza di Monte Gavallo,with obelisk.great granite fountain, and two famous colossal marble groups, the Horse-Tamers, formerly in Baths of Constantine. Near Quirinal stands Consulta Palace, now Govern- ment offices; Palazzo Rospigliosi (1603), with casino (Wed. and Sat.; 9-3), full of priceless pic- tures, including Guido's Aurora; S. Silvestro ch., with Domenichino's frescos; mediaeval Milizie and Gonti towers. Beneath Ch. of Cappuccini tourists visit vaults con- taining 4,000 desiccated bodies of Capuchin Monks, many in robes, others used in ghastly decorations. In 346 BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN. rear of monastery is Villa Ludovisi, along city-wa£, with Juno Ludovisi, Guercino's Aurora, etc., in its embowered casinos. Across Piazza Barberini (see Bernini's Triton Fountain) is great and splendid Pa- lazzo Barberini (1624), with noble halls, antique sculptures and Picture-Gallery (open daily, 12-5), containing Raphael's Fornarina, the so-called Griii- do's Beatrice Cenci, etc. In the great hall, see Pietro da Cortona's fresco, " The Triumph of Glory." The library was added to the Vatican Library in 1902. On Piazza di SS. Apostoli, see ch. (555; restored # 1872) with monuments byCanova ; Valentino, Odes- calchi, and Buffo Palaces; and Palazzo Colonna (1417), with splendid halls and gardens, antiques, Gobelins, and several halls filled with fine old pictures (open daily, 11-3; names of pictures on frames). The Baths of Diocletian, near rly.-stat., were once the largest in Borne, 6,000 ft. around, with 3,000 bathers daily. Built in 4th century by enslaved Chris- tians. One of the great vaulted halls was made into Ch. of S. Maria degli Angeli, by Michael Angelo (1561). It is 350 ft. long and 96 ft. high, with 16 columns (40 ft. high) of Oriental granite, Houdon's statue of St. Bruno, Domenichino's wonderful frescos, and tombs of Salvator Rosa and Carlo Maratta. Other halls of the Baths are ugw military storehouses, etc. ; as also is Carthusian Monastery, one of whose cloisters has 100 columns, and was designed by Angelo. A fragment of the Wall of Servhts is in the rly.-stat. The Patriarchal Basilica of S. Maria Maggiore is on the Esquiline, between 2 squares, adorned with an ancient obelisk, and a column 46 ft. high, with bronze statue of Madonna. Pirst ch. here built by Pope Liberius (in 352), on ground indicated by miraculous fall of snow in August. Present nave (279 X 57 ft.) ROME. 347 built in 432-40, with 42 marble Ionic columns (from Temple of Juno), and 5tli-century mosaics on archi- trave, walls, and arch. Impressive facade, with 5 por- tals, statue of Philip IV. of Spain, and interesting old mosaics. See high altar*, a porphyry sarcophagus con- taining St. Matthew's remains, with canopy on 4 porphyry columns ; Borghese Chapel, with altar of lapis lazuli and agate, and Madonna painted by St. Luke ; Chapel (with 10 porphyry columns) containing manger- cradle of Christ : tombs of 6 popes ; sumptuous Six- tine Chapel, and others. The first gold brought from America was given to the Pope by Ferdinand and Isabella, and used in decorating this ch. Like St. Peter's, this magnificent temple, so rich in gems and mosaics, should be visited several times. Near by, see S. Antonio Abate, the ch. where do- mestic animals are blessed on third week in Jan. ; Triumphal Arch of Gallienus (a.d. 262) ; S. Eusebio, frescoed by Raphael Mengs ; tower of Aqua Claudia; S. Prassede (882; restored in 1450 and 1869), with 9th-century mosaics, column at which Christ was scourged, bones of Sts. Praxedis and Pudentiana, and Chapel of Garden of Paradise, with mosaics on gold; S. Pudenziana, on site where St. Peter lived, with 4th-century mosaics (3,000 martyrs are buried bs- neath) ; S. Martino ai Monti (500), a basilica with 42 antique columns, and frescos by Poussin ; and S. Pietro in Vincoli (442), built by Empress Eudoxia to receive St. Peter's chains, with 20 antique Doric columns, fine bronze doors, and Michael Angelo's famous statue of Moses. The Pantheon is the best preserved of the old Roman buildings. It was built by Augustus's son-in- law, Agrippa, B.C. 27 i burnt under Titus and Trajan; restored by Septimus beverus and Caracalla ; conse* 348 THE PANTHEON. crated by Boniface IV., in 609, as Ch. of S. Maria ad Marti/res • deformed by its 2 campaniles, by Bernini; stripped of its bronzes by Urban VIII. ; and restored by Pius IX. Great excavations are now in progress, revealing Roman works and buildings. The vast round wails of brick, 20 ft. thick, were once covered with marble. The portico (now below, but once above, the square) lias 16 huge monolithic columns of Oriental granite, 39 ft. high, with Corinthian capitals of famed beauty. Statues of Augustus and Agrippa once stood here. The circular interior is very impres- sive ; and is lighted from a place 28 ft. across in the centre of the dome, open to the sky. This unrivalled dome is 140 ft. high and 140 ft. across. It was ascended by Charles V. in 1536. The gilded bronze roof-tiles were carried to Constantinople in 655 ; and all the other bronzes were used in making cannon for the Citadel and the canopy in St. Peter's. The 7 niches in which statues of the gods stood are now occupied by altars. Raphael is buried here, near his betrothed, Cardinal Bibiena's niece. Here also rest Peruzzi, Giovanni da Udine, Annibale Caracci, and Perino della Vaga; and here is the tomb of King Victor Emmanuel of Italy. The Gothic S. Maria sopra Minerva, back of Pan- theon, was built in 1285 on site of Temple of Minerva, and contains tombs of Bembo, Pra Ans:elico, Urban VII., Paul IV., Leo X., and Clement VII ; Michael Angelo's Christ, and many choice works of art. Adja- cent Government building was headquarters of Do- minican Order, in which Galileo retracted his statement about the earth's motion. Great librarv here, 120,000 vols, and 4,500 MSS. Close by, see S. Ignmw (1626), and Collegia Romano, in which is famous Kircheriax? Museum of arenffioiogy (9-3 daily ; 1 1.). ROME. 349 S. Andrea della Valle (1591) has tombs of Pius II. and III., and Domenichino's celebrated Evangelists. Near by, see Palazzo Vidoni, designed by Raphael; Palazzo Massimi alle Colomw (1536), with statue of Discus-thrower ; great Palazzo Braschi ; Pasquino statue ; rains of Pornpeifs Theatre ; Chiesa Nuova (1605), with paintings by Rubens, monastery, and great library ; Palazzo della Cancelleria, very elegant, de- signed by Bramante ; busy Piazza di Campo dei Fiori ; vast Palazzo Farnese (Fri., 10-2), built by Sangallo and Michael Angelo in 1534-45, now belonging to the French Government, and splendidly frescoed "by Anni- bale Caracci (Triumphs of Ariadne and Bacchus); Pa- lazzo Spada alia Regola (1540), with great collections of antique sculptures and paintings (Mon., Wed., Sat., *t)-3) ; and many other famous chs. and palaces. The great Piazza Navona has 3 interesting foua. ;ains, and is bounded by the Lancelloti, Omani, Braschi, and Pamfili Palaces ; S. Maria delV Anima (1514), Geiv man national ch., with mausoleum of Adrian VI. ; ant! the Spanish national ch. Near it is S. Maria della Pace (1484), containing Raphael's Sibyls (1514). Pine cloister (1501) adjacent. S. Agostino (1483; re- stored in I860) has tomb of Monica, Augustine's mother, and Raphael's famous Prophet Isaiah (1512). Adjacent is old monastery. In Piazza S. Apollinare, see ch. (1552) with Perugino's Madonna, Seminario Romano school, and handsome Palazzo Altemps. S. Lnigi de' Francesi (1589), on square with Patrizi, Madama, and Giustiniani Palaces, has many notable paintings. Near by is University of the Sapienza, founded 1303, and now having 4 faculties and a library (Alessandrina) of 90,000 vols. S. of the Gesii, see many palaces and chs. ; the Tortoise {Tartartighe) Fountain £?L585); Palazzo Costaguti (1590), with Albano's and 350 CASTLE OF ST. ANGELO. Guercino's frescoes ; Palazzo Mattel (1616), with many statues in court ; Palazzo Cenci, where Beatrice Cenci lived ; the Ghetto, pulled down in 1887, once the quarter of the Jews ; Colonnade of Octavia, built by Augustus in honor of his sister ; Theatre of Marcellus (b. c. 13), 12hugh arches only remaining ; and palaces of the Orsini and Savelli. From the Bridge of St. Angelo to the Vatican. — The 5-arched Ponte S. Angelo was built by Hadrian (a. d. 136) and named Pons ^EJlius. 10 colossal angel- statues by Bernini (1688) adorn its parapets. At the end rises, vast round Castle S. Angelo (fee.l 1.), built by Hadrian for a mausoleum (with colossal statue on summit), where the Antonines and other emperors and their families were buried. Later, it was a fortress; which repelled dreadful sieges, as when the Greeks (in 537) threw down its statues on the assailing Goths; and a prison, where Beatrice' Cenci, Benvenuto Cellini, Cagiiostro, Pope John X. (suffocated here), etc., were shut up. Very interesting interior, tomb chambers, inclined planes, cells, papal suite (where Clement VII. took refuge when Bourbon's troops sacked Rome), and grand view from top, on which see bronze angel, com- memorating Gregory the Great's vision of Archangel Michael sheathing his sword on this spot, after which the olague ceased to devastate Borne (hence name of castle) A covered way runs hence to the Vatican. Near by is enormous S. Spirito Hospital, for sick, aged, lunatics, and foundlings (open 2-4), accommo- dating nearly 5,000 persons. The Borgo Nuovo leads by several chs. and palaces (Giraud, Ricciardi, etc.), and the Piazza Rmticucci, where "Raphael died 5 to the mag- nificent St. Peter's Square (Piazza di S. Pietro), 1110 X 840 ft. in area, surrounded by imposing Doric colonnades, built by Bernini in 1667, and composed of ROME. 351 284 columns and 90 pilasters, each 41| ft. high. On the roofs are 126 colossal statues of saints. In centre of square (or rather circle) stands an Obelisk brought by Caligula from Egyptian Heliopolis, and set up here in 1586. At each side is a handsome fountain (46 ft. high). Entrance to St. Peters in front ■ to the Vatican, to the r., at end of colonnade. St. Peter's was built by Constantiue (a..d. 326), on site of Nero's circus, where St. Peter was martyred, and surrounded by rich chs., convents, etc. Charlemagne and many emperors and popes were crowned there. In 1450-1626 the present ch. was built, having among its architects Brarnante, Raphael, Peruzzi, Michael Angelo (from his 72d to 79th year), Eontana, and Bernini. It cost over $60,000,000 ; took 176 years (the reigns of 28 popes) to build; and covers 240,000 sq. ft., being the largest ch. in the world. Total length, 696 ft. ; length of transept, 450 ft. ; length of nave, 619 ft. ; width of nave, 88 ft. (height, 153 ft.) ; height of dome and cross, 470 ft. ; diameter, 141 ft. Eacade (finished in 1612), 369 ft. long, 165 ft. high, crowned by statues of Christ and Apostles, each 19 ft. high. Portico, 234 X 43 ft. (66 ft. high), with colossal statues of Constantiue and Charlemagne, Giot- to's mosaic of La Navicella, and brazen central doors (made in 1447). Interior has 30 altars, 148 columns (mostly from ruins of ancient Rome) ; inlaid marble pavement (see stones showing length of other great chs.), brilliantly gilded vaulting upheld by Corinthian pillars and piers, famous bronze statue of St. Peter enthroned, many colossal statues of saints, vast in- scriptions and pictures in mosaic, canopy 95 ft. high made by Bernini (1633) of bronze from Pantheon, high altar over tomb of St. Peter (which is approached by marble stairs, and surrounded by 112 ever-burning lamns), wooden throne of St. Peter, many vast and 352 THE VATICAN. beautiful chapels, tombs of the popes, many paintings by great masters, and statues by Michael Angelo, Canova, Thorwaldsen. See tombs of Maria Sobieski, several Stuart princes, Palestrina, Christina of Sweden, etc. In Sacristy (1775), see 3 chapels, many rarf pictures by Giotto, etc. In Treasury, see candelabra by Cellini and Angelo, Charlemagne's dalmatic, and ; rare jewels. The Crypts are very interesting, with many chapels, mosaics, carvings, and tombs. 137 popes were buried in St. Peter's. The Dome (open daily, 8-10), 630 ft. around, rises 308 ft. above the roof (to which, 142 steps). Look down into ch. from inner gallery. Stairs between inner and outer dome to Lantern (grand view over Rome and Campagna), whence you may climb into ball under cross (large enough to hold 16 persons). Walk around the ch., outside, to see its vast propor- tions. At its side and rear, see ancient German ceme- tery and hospice; and Palace of the Inquisition ''now barracks). The Vatican, the largest palace in the worla, ad- joins St. Peter's, and has 20 courts and 11,000 halls a?id rooms. Pope Symmachus founded first papal palace here in 498 ; and Charlemagne dwelt therein. After return from Avignon the popes lived here, desert- ing the Lateran; and after 1450 the palace was en. larged by successive popes, from designs by Bramante, Bernini, etc. Notice singular uniforms of Swiss guards, designed by Michael Angelo. Ascend splen- did Scala Regia to Sistine Chapel, built and named for Pope Sixtus IV. in 1473, 133 X 45 ft. in area (best light at morning). Prescos by Signorelli, Botticelli, etc. Magnificent ceiling, frescoed by Michael Angelo (1508-11), Creation, Fall, Deluge, Prophets and Sibyls, etc. On altar-wall, 64 ft. wide, Angelo's terri- ble and incomparable Last Judgment. See Pauline KOME. 353 Chapel (1540), with other frescos by Angelo ; Sola. Ducale, frescos by Brill; and Sala Regia, historical frescos by Vasari, etc. The Loggie are adorned with Biblical scenes, from Raphael's designs, and beautiful stucco work. Raphael's Stanze are 4 rooms con- taining the noblest frescos of Raphael (1508-20), the Disputa, Parnassus, School of Athens, Heliodorus,. Attila, Liberation of St. Peter, etc. The Chapel of Nicholas V. has spiritual frescos by Era Angelica (1447). The Picture-Gallery contains paintings taken by Napoleon from the Roman chs., and placed here when brought back from Paris. See Raphael's. Transfiguration and Madonna di Poligno, Domeni- chino's St. Jerome, and works of Leonardo, Era An- gelico, Titian, Guido, Murillo, etc. The Museum of Sculptures (closed Mon. and Thur., 2-4) contains, 1,800 pieces, including Apollo Belvedere, Perseus of Canova, Laocoon, luno, Minerva Medica, Mercury^ Torso, Penelope, Eros, etc. See also porphyry sarcopha- gus of Empress Helena ; Braccio Nuovo hall, with 16 splendid ancient columns (alabaster, etc.) ; Belvedere Court; Sala delle Muse, with 16 Carrara-marble col- umns ; Sala Rotonda, on model of Pantheon ; Hall of Greek Cross ; magnificent Tapestry of Raphael (1515-16), representing Biblical scenes ; Gregorian Museum of Etruscan Antiquities, in 12 rooms ; Egyptian Museum, 10 rooms; Library and Archives, 200,000 vols, and 34,000 MSS. (many of them very precious); papal manufactory of mosaic, where 10,000 colors and shades of glass are used ; and gardens of Vatican. Stroll down the riverside Lungara, nearly 1 M. long, joining the Leonine City (where are St. Peter's and the Vatican) to Trastevere. Passing under Gate of the Holy Spirit, ascend to S. Onofrio ch. (1439), with tombs of Tasso and Mezzofanti . Adjacent mon- 354 TRASTEVERE. — JANICULAN HILL. astery Las Leonardo's Madonna, Tasso's cell and oak. Farther down Longara, see tine Palazzo Salviati (now civic archives) ; Botanical Gardens ; very beautifiu Villa Farnesina (1506), with Raphael's famous fres- cos of Psyche and Galatea ; and Palazzo Corsini (open daily 10-4, adm. 1 fr.), with 9 halls of paint- ings, 8 of books and MSS., and a garden of rare beauty. Enter, by Porta Settimiana, into Trastevere (from Trans-Tiber), a quarter whose inhabitants claim to be- direct descendants of the ancient Romans. See 12th- century basilica of S. Crisogono, near which mosaic- paved and frescoed house of No. 7 company cf old Roman (3d-century) fire department ; S. Maria Traste- vere, built by Calixtus I. (a.d. 217), with 22 antique columns, mosaics, etc. ; St. Cecilia (a.d. 222), with mosaics, broad court, portico on African-marble col- umns, and tomb of St. Cecilia, whose house stood on this site. On the Janiculan Hill over Trastevere, command- ing a noble panoramic view of Rome and mts., see S. Pietro in Montorio (1500), on site of St. Peter's martyrdom, with many ancient paintings ; Tempietto (1502) in court of adjacent monastery, with 16 Doric columns ; Acqua Faola, a magnificent old fountain, sutlet of Trajan's aqueduct ; S. Pancrazio Gate (fine views near) ; and Villa Doria Pamjili, a very lovely park and casino. This trip over the Janiculan Hill should not be omitted. .Between Trastevere and the Ghetto, in the Tiber, is the Island of S. Bartolommeo (ancient bridges from both shores), with Ch. of S. Bartolommeo (built a.d. 1000), with 14 ancient columns, on site of a heathen temple (iEsculapius was worshipped here). The island also has ? large monastery, and % fountain- adorned square.' '' v ROME. 355 The Capitol is readied by asr 'a alt stairs from Piazza Ara Codi, with Egyptian lions at base, and marble Dioscuri (Castor and Pollux), or Horse-Tamers, at the top. See, also, the Trophies oA Marius ; antique statues of Constautine and Co'i^tan?. j and male and female wolves, caged. The Piazza del Campidoglio, planned by Michael Angelo a^d Milt oy Paul III. (1536), has in l ts centre the fa mo as and unrivalled antique bronze equestrian statue of M^rcs Aurelius, anciently sup- posed to represent Coiutaulme, and placed before the Late ran from 1187 to 15J8. The palaces on three sides were built or remodelled by Angelo. The Pal- ace oi f tile Coi»sery?..tors (r. side ; open 10-3) con- tains halls of busts of celebrated Italians, Latin sculp- tures, Etruscan museum, great halls with frescos from Punic and Oimbriau wars, and a gallery of 200-300 paintings. In the Capitoline Museum (I. side ; open 10-3) see Marforio, the colossal river-goa, and sarco- phagi ; hails of bronzes and urns ; ancient marble plan of Rome; exquisitely fine mosaic of Doves of Pliny; 82 antique busts of emperors ; antique statues of the philosophers and gods ; and vast number of famous classic sculptures, including Capitoline Juno, Amazon, Antinous, rosso-antico Faun, Dying Gladiator, and Capitoline Venus (in closed cabinet). The Palace of the Senator, at end of square, was built in 1389, and adorned by Michael Angelo. It is now the town- hall. The campanile (1572) commands a fine view, and contains great bell. ' Just S. E. is the Tarpeian. Rock. Streets lead from Capitol down into Eorum. High over Capitol (long stairway), on site of Temple of Jupiter, is 9th-cent. Ch. of 8. Maria in Ara Cceli, with homely front, and interior adorned with 22 an. tique columns of assorted si^.es, many paintings, chapel of the Bambino, tomb of St. Helena, etc- Adjacent is 356 TRAJAN'S COLUMN. splendid Franciscan monastery (1251), with two courts, now a barrack. While hearing the monks chant in Ara Cceli (1764), Gibbon conceived the idea of his famous history. The Mamertine Prison , between Ara Cceli and Forum (fee, ^1.), was built by the early kings of Rome, very massively. Here were slain Jugurtha, Vercingetorix, Joras, and Catiline's allies ; and here St. Peter was imprisoned (they show pillar to which he was chained). Between the Forum and Tiber, see round 7th-cen- tury Ch. of S. Teodoro ; temple of Janus Quadrifrons, built in Constantine's time ; 4th-century basilica of S. Giorgio in Velabro, with antique columns ; Arcus Ar- gentarius, built by merchants of adjacent Forum Boarium (eattle-market) to Septimius Severus; mouth oi great sewer of Cloaca Maxima; 3d-century ch. of S. Maria in Cosmedin, on site and wilh columns of King Servius's Temple of Fortune, and with handsome 8th-century campanile; round temple (of Yesta, or Hercules), surrounded by 19 (once 20) Corinthian columns; pretty little Ionie temple, now Cli. of S. Maria Fr/iziaca; House of Rienzi (10th century) ; and Fonte Rotto (Pons JEmilius), with suspension-bridge filling place of arches swept away in 1598, leading to Trastevere. Trajan's Column, 87 ft. high (138 ft. with base and statue of St. Peter), is surrounded with a spiral bas-relief, 3 ft. wide and 660 ft. long, on which are 2,50G human figures, illustrating events of Dacian war. Tra- jan was buried beneath. Stairs inside to top. Close by, see remains of vast Basilica Ulpia, built a.d. 111- 114, by Apollodorus of Damascus, for Trajan, and once the grandest building in Rome. See, also, chs. of Nome di Maria (1683) and Loreto 507). Near by are frag- HOME. 357 merits of Forum of Augustus, of which a massive wall, 450 ft. long, and 3 columns of Temple of Mars Ultor remain. The Academy of St . Luke (open 9-3) contains statuary by Canova and Thorwaldsen, and many fine old paintings, including veiled pictures by Titian, etc. This is a choice collection. Near by is an imposing fragment of Nervas Forum. The Palace of the Csesars consists of enormous ruins on the Palatine, the original site of early Rome, where dwelt Evander, Romulus, Catiline, Cicero, Au- gustus, Tiberins, Vespasian, Odoacer, Theodoric, etc. Fifty years ago the Palatine was a hill of vineyards, with convents, but the emperors of Russia and France began excavations, which Italy has continued (open daily, adm. 1 fr. ; Sun. free). Enter from Forum, and see Museum, with articles found lie re ; foundations of Caligula's palace ; parts of Tiberius's palace ; hand- some private house of Livia, with mural paintings ; Fla- vian palace, built by Vespasian; platform of Temple of Jupiter Victor; colonnades; stairs hewn in rock; school-house ; and other very interesting ruins. (Get local guide.) The Forum Romanum was a marshy space be- tween the Capitol and Palatine, the battle-ground of Sabines and Romans, afterwards the centre of their state, embellished with many splendid temples and statues, the scene of many famous events, and seat of the councils which ruled the world. After the fall of Rome, some of the temples became chs. and others were torn down for building materials ; and the troops who came to the aid of Hildebrand, in the 11th century, completed the destruction. Over this rubbish-heaped Campo Vaccim (cow-pasture), fortresses and houses arose. In 1536, Paul III. began to clear the ground, but little was done uatil 1803. Since 1871 extensive works have been cat> 358 I & fttlM ROMANUM. ried on. The original level was 30 ft. below the pres- ent. The remains of the Tabularium (built B.C. 87), vast vaults for archives and 3,000 bronze tables of de- crees and records, now serve as foundations for Palace of the Senator. See its ponderous arcades and gallery, and view over Forum. The marble Arch of Septimius Severus is covered with sculptures of the victories of Septimius, and his sons Caracalla and Geta, over the Parthians and Arabians. Erected in 203, it became a medieval castle ; was excavated in 1803. Back of it are remains of Temple of Concord (b.c 366, restored by Tiberius), where the Senate sometimes met, and Cicero impeached Catiline. The tall white columns near by pertained to the Temple of Vespasian (once of Jupiter Tonans), built by Domitian and restored by Septimius and Caracalla. To the W. stand the Schola Xantha,the home of the official scribes, and the Colonnade of the Twelve Gods (built a.d. 367, by an anti-Christian pre- fect). 8 granite Ionic columns in front of Vespasian's Temple, pertained to Temple of Saturn. Near by were the orators' tribunes (rostra), often used by Cicero. Two marble slabs from the rostra have beau- tiful reliefs. Remains of the tomb of Romulus with early Latin inscriptions were unearthed in 1899. The Column of Phocas was erected in 608, in honor of a Greek emperor. Near by, see Basilica Julia, 333 by 149 ft., built by Caesar, with parts of its many pillars remaining. 3 Parian-marble columns still stand on site of splendid Temple of Castor and Pollux (built B.c. 484 ; rebuilt a.d. 6). On E. are foundations of Tem- ple of Cmsar, where Mark Antony delivered his funeral oration. The Temple of Faustina (a.d. 141), with 10 marble columns, encloses the eh. of S. Lor- enzo in Miranda. An ancient burial vault was dis- covered here in 1902. Numerous vaulted passages beneath tho pavement of the Forum were discov- ered during the excavations in 1901. Seventh ROME. 359 century ch. of S. Adriano is on site of Curia Hostilia. The Via Sacra, leading from S. gate of Rome to Cap- itol, lies 20 ft. below the road. The circular Temple of Romulus is now the ch. of SS. Cosmo and Damian, with porphyry columns, bronze doors, 6th-century mosaics, and tombs of saints. The Basilica of Const aniine, origi- nally 300 by 264 ft. in area, has 3 stupendous arches remaining (beautiful view from top). Back of ch. of S. Francesca Romana (interesting tombs and relics) are ruins of once superb Temple of Venus and Rome, de- signed by Hadrian, who would be architect as well as emperor (a.d. 135). The marble Triumphal Arch of Titus, small, but very interesting and graceful, com- memorates the victories over the Jews, a.d. 70. It was a medieval fortress of the Frangipani. See the bas- reliefs. Hence the Sacred Way descends to the vast building named, from colossal statue of Nero, the Colos- seum, Rome's chief marvel. It was founded by Ves- pasian and finished by Titus, Jewish captives doing the work (a.d. 80) ; 10,000 men and 5,000 beasts were slain at its inauguration ; the scene of countless fights of gladiators and wild beasts ; and of magnificent celebra- tion of 1000th anniversary of Rome's foundation (a.d. 24S) ; afterwards fortress of Frangipani, Annibaldi, etc. ; in 14th and 15th centuries a quarry, its fine ma- sonry being used to build Farnese, Cancelleria, S. Mar- co, and other vast palaces ; about 1750 redeemed, and consecrated to the Passion of Christ. It is an ellipse, \ M. around and 156 ft. high, with arena 279 by 174 ft. in area, which could be Hooded for naval combats : 50,000 spectators could be accommodated. Duly \ of the Colosseum now stands Visit it by moonlight also, The adjacent Arch of Constantine, the most beau* tiful hi Rome, commemorates the victory over Max. entius (311), the Pagan emperor, and stands on the 360 BATHS OF TITUS. — S. STEFANO ROTONDO. Triumphal Way. The best of the many sculptures were taken from an older monument of Trajan. Pius VII. unburied this arch in 1804. Close by, see remains of sumptuous Baths of Titus (^ fr.), on the Esquiline,, on part of site of Nero's Golden House. Beautiful mu- ral paintings here, which suggested Raphael's frescos m Vatican loggie. S. Clemente, the oldest ch. in Rome,, is midway between the Colosseum and Lateran. Up- per ch. is a basilica, with 16 antique columns, old mo- saics, and rich canopy. The lower ch., built before 392,. and damaged by Guiscard's Norman army (1084), has- been excavated since 1858. It has 16 antique columns, and 5th-century frescos (very interesting). Still far- ther down are remains of St. Clement's (4th pope) house, discovered in 1867. (See Hachettes guide- book.) Near by, on lonely Celian Hill, see ch. of SS. Quatro Coronati, to 4 saints martyred by Diocletian, - — very ancient, destroyed by Guiscard's Normans, and restored in 1111 ; S. Stefano Rotondo, the largest circular ch. in existence, built by Simplicius in 470, with 56 columns and many frescos of terrible mar tyrdoms; La Navicella, rebuilt in 817, with man} columns of granite and porphyry, and 9th-century mosa. ics ; 5th-century SS. Giovanni e Paolo, with Passionist monastery and garden ; S. Gregorio (575), 16 antique columns, part of St. Gregory's house, a bit of Servian Wall, and 3 very interesting detached chapels. The broad Piazza of S. Giovanni in Laterano has a red-granite obelisk 104 ft. high (with pedestal, 153 ft.), erected at Thebes, B.C. 1560 ; brought to Rome by Constantine, a.d. 357; and set up here in 1587. On one side, Women's Hospital; opposite which see Scala Santa, 28 marble steps (brought to Rome by Empres? Helena, in 326), by which Christ is said to have entered Pilate's palace, at Jerusalem Tjhey are ascended on ROME. 361 the knees only, and lead to very sacred chapel (1278). Here, alongside wall of Rome, and overlooking Cam- pagna and rats., stands venerable basilica of S. Giovanni in Lateran, on whose front is inscribed Omnium urbis et orbis ecclesiarum mater et caput. This is the Pope's ch. as Bishop of Rome ; at St. Peter's he is sovereign Pontiff of the world. Five ecumenical councils were held here, between 1123 and 1512. Constantine built first ch. here, on site of palace of Laterani family. Present ch. built 1360-1734. Pacacle with colossal statues, bronze doors, statue of Constantine. Inte- rior has grand nave, with 4 aisles, inlaid pavement, jnassive pillars with 24 statues of Prophets and Apos- tles, bronze statue of Martin V., Altar of the Sacrament (with antique columns of gilded bronze), many fine old mosaics, Giotto's fresco of Pope Boniface VIII., mag- nificent Corsini Chapel (inlaid with precious stones), Torlonia Chapel (in white marble and gold), Donatel- lo's wooden statue of St. John the Baptist, Bernini's Pietk, and the great Papal Altar, over which is a canopy containing heads of Sts. Peter and Paul. Beautiful 13th-century monastery court adjacent ; also octagonal Baptistery, in which it is said that Constantine was baptized, with 8 porphyry columns, basalt font, bronze doors (1196), 7th-century mosaics, and 3 oratories (built in 461 and 640). In adjacent Lateran Palace the popes iwelt for a thousand years (to 1377). Pres- ent palace, ouilt in 1586; and in 1843 converted into vast and interesting museum (open 9-4) of antique sculptures, Christian sarcophagi and inscriptions (rrom catacombs), and picture-gallery filling 8 rooms, with remarkable Latin mosaics. Sc Croce in G-erusalemme, among lonely lields net wees. Aqua Claudia and Roman wall, is a 4th-ceii- tury basilica, founded by Empress Helena, on earth 362 BATHS OF CAEACALLA. brought from Jerusalem, with mosaics, frescos, tombs of saints, and the Inscription on the Cross Cistercian monastery adjacent, with famous library. Also, ruins of Castrensian Amphitheatre, etc. To N., ruins of 3 d- century decagonal Temple of Minerva Medica, once rich . in statues ; and near rly., S. Bibiana (470), with an- tique columns inside. In casino of Villa Massimo, on Piazza Lateran, rich modern frescos from Dante, Tasso, and Ariosto, by Overbeck, Schnorr, etc. Villa Wolkonsky near by. The marble-clad brick Pyramid of Oestrus, at Porta S. Paolo, is 116 ft. high (base, 98 ft. square), with chamber 19 X 13 ft., where the tribune Cains Cestius was buried (b.c. 30). Close by are the Protestant Cemeteries, with graves of Keats, Severn, etc., and of the heart of Shelley. See, across meadows, the lonely Monte Testaccio, 164 ft. high, composed entirely of broken pottery, crowned by a, cross (grand view hence), and cut into by wine-sellers' grottos. To the N., see ancient Latin Emporium and quays of Marmorata ; also 3 chs. on Aventine : S. Sabina, built in 425, in basilica form, with 24 antique Corinthian columns of Parian marble, and open roof, and adjacent Dominican mon- astery (beautiful cloisters) ; S. Alessio, very ancient, restored in 1217, with Hieronymite monastery adjoin- ing ; and S. Maria Aventina, with tombs of Xnights of Malta, whose priory is close by. The Baths of Caracalla' (fee, 1 1.), nearly 1 M. from Arch of Constantine (by S. Balbina, a very ancient ch., with open roof), still show remains of their an- cient vastness and magnificence. They cover an area 1,080 ft. square, and could accommodate 1,600 bathers. Caracalla was the founder (a.d. 212). Many famous stetiaes were discovered here. Sole" did view from roof. Near by, see ch. of SS. Nereo ed AcMlleo, built by THE APPIAN WAY. 363 Leo III. in 300, on site of Temple of Isis, in basilica style ; S. Sisto, and convent of S. Domenico ; very ancient S. Cesareo ; and, near the closed Porta Latina, old chs. of S. Gionanni, and a Latin tomb. Beyond Tomb of the Scipios (^ fr.) and Columbaria, the street passes the mutilated Arch of Drusus (b.c. 8), and enters the Appian Way at S. Sebastian Gate. The Appian "Way (called Regitia Viarum) was begun B.C. 312 by Appius Claudius, and ran to Capua, and afterwards to Brmdisi, forming main route to S. Italy, Greece, and Egypt. By order of Pius IX. it was excavated as far as Fratocchie, 11 M. out, on rly. to Albano. Beautiful views all along, of Campagna, aqueducts, and Alban Mts. Beyond Domine quo Vadis ch., a path leads off to Temple of Dens Rediculus, a handsome little building of Hadrian's era ; the Grotto of Fgeria ; a red-brick 2cl-century tomb, or temple, now the ch. of S. TJrbano (with frescos of a.d. 1011) ; and the tombs on the Via Latina. On Via Appia are Catacombs of B. Calixtus (fee, 1-21.), with tombs of St. Cecilia and many 2d and 3d century popes and martyrs, and 7th-eentury Byzantine paintings. Cata- combs of Domitilla and St. Prcetextatus near by. \ M. beyond is very ancient S. Sebastiano ch., under which are extensive catacombs (1 1.). Farther on see remains of Circus of Maxentius, built in 311, 1,590 ft. long, with seats for 18,000 people. On hill beyond stands the famous Tomb of Cacilia Metella, round, 65 ft. in diameter, and in 13th century a tower of now vanished castle of the Gaetani. Beyond, the Way is bordered by ancient tombs on either side, and the old Latin pavement is the road-bed. Noble views of the mts. and the far prolonged arches of Aqua Marcia and Aqua Claudia. 6 M. out is Casale Rotondo, a large tomb ; and it is 8 M. thence to Albano. Near 4th milestone is Tomb of 364 THE CAMPAGNA. Seneca (so called), near site ot Seneca's house, and also near ruins of beautiful little Temple of Jupiter, where many Christians snifered martyrdom. 3 tumuli, 1 M. beyond, are thought to be the tombs of the Horatii and Curiatii. At 9th milestone are ponderous brick ruins of villa and tomb of Emperor Gallienus. Excursions near Rome. — The Campagna is a great rolling plain of volcanic earth, between the sea and the Sabine Mts., with shallow ravines and low steep hills. Pools of water collect here in winter, and stag- nate in summer, giving forth the terrible malaria which makes Rome's vicinity so unhealthy. But every tourist should see Italy in her fair summer attire ; and an August sojourn may be made at Rome with safety, by taking due precautions. Trolley cars now run from Rome to Frascati, Albano, and Genzano. The patriarchal and pilgrimage ch. of S. Lorenzo fu- ori le Mura, f M. beyond Porta di S. Lorenzo, on tomb of St. Lawrence, was founded by Constantine ; rebuilt in 578 ; remodelled in 1216 ; and restored in 1864-70. See bronze statue of St. Lawrence, in square ; fapade with frescos of founders ; 10th-century mosaic pave- ment ; 22 antique Ionic columns of nave, upholding open roof; lower and older ch., with 12 noble Corin- thian columns of pavonazzetto ; violet-marble columns in presbytery ; silver shrine with remains of St. Law- rence ; beautiful 13th-century cloister adjacent. Great cemetery near. In vestibule Pius IX. is buried. The basilica of S. Agnese fuori le Mura, beyond the Patrizi and Torionia villas, \\ M. outside Porta Pia, was built by Constantine, over St. Agnes's tomb, and restored in 625 and 1856. Beyond court, 45 marble steps lead down to the ch., with mosaics, inlaid altars, 16 precious antique columns, and tabernacle (with por- phyry columns) over alabaster statue of St. Agnes. ROME. 365 Adjacent is S. Cosfanza, built by Constantine as tomb of his daughter Constantia, with dome resting on 24 columns of granite, porphyry sarcophagus of Constantia, and 4th century mosaics. S. Paolo fuori le Mufa, 1£ M. from Porta S. Paolo (omnibus every half hour from Palazzo Venezia), on Ostian road, alongside the Tiber, is on site of a deeply venerated church built by Constan- tine, over St. Paul's tomb, and magnificently en- riched and enlarged by emperors and popes, but burnt in 1823. Present church, consecrated in 1854, of valuable materials and imposing prooortions, is 390 X 195 ft. in area, and 75 ft. high (inside). Won- derfully impressive nave, and four aisles, with 80 enormous Simplon-granite columns, whose bases and capitals are of marble ; long lines of mosaic portraits of all the popes; and stained-glass windows. See alabaster columns given by Viceroy of Egypt ; malachite altars, given by the Czar; 5th century mosaics; splendid altar-canopy (1285); and rich chapels. Adjacent is beautiful (now secularized) Benedictine cloister (1220), surrounding orange- grove. 2 M. hence is S. Sebastiano (p. 363); and out on Via Ardeatina (li-2 M.) are abbey and three chs. (393-1599) of Tre Fontane, where St. Paul was beheaded. The handsome Ponte Molle, 1^ M. (dull road) from Porta del Popolo, was rebuilt in 1815 on site of Milvian Bridge, built B.C. 109, where Maxentius was slain, after being defeated by Constantine (a.d. 312). 2 M. out is Aqua Acetosa, a famous old mineral- spring, beyond the once sumptuous villa which Vig- nola built for Pope Julius III. Beyond Ponte Molle are the far-viewing rock-tombs of the Nasones, the Villa of Livia, and the famous Valley of Poussin. Monte Mario, \\ M. from Porta Angelica, is a bold hill (road to top), 476ft. high, commanding superb 366 TORRE DEI SCHIAVI. — ALBANO. view of Rome, the Campagna, the mfs., and the sea. There are several villas here, among which see Villa Mellini, famed for its prospect, and Villa Madama, de- signed by Raphael, and owned in turn by Clement TIL, the Farnese family, and the King of Naples. See loggia, with frescos by Giulio Romano. The Via Nomentana leads from Porta Pia, 2 M., from which it crosses the Anio by an ancient bridge. Itt M. beyond is the famous Mons Sacer ; and the road is prolonged to the battle-field of Mentana (1867). The Via Prtenestina leads from Porta Maggiore to (2 M.) the Torre dei Schiavi, a favorite resort of artists. It is a large group of very obscure ruins, once pertaining to the villa of Gordian, and in Middle Ages used for a cli. and a castle. 3 M. from Porta Mag- giore, on Via Labicana, are the ruins of the mausoleum of the Empress Helena (now a ch.). The Via Campana runs along the Tiber, from Porta Portese to (5 M.) the Vigna Ceccarelli, with scanty remains of temple and hall of ancient agricultural brotherhood of the Fratres Arvales, founded by the foster-brothers of Romulus, to invoke the Goddess of Plenty. Near by, see well-preserved Catacombs of S. Generosa ; also (near Magliana stat.), chateau of La Magliana, once frescoed by Raphael. The Via Salara leads from the Salariau Gate to (2^M.) the ancient stone bridge over the Anio, de- stroyed by the Goths, rebuilt by Narses, and blown up in 1867. On far- viewing height close by stood Antem- nse, a town destroyed by Romulus ; and 4 M. beyond, near Castel Giubileo (built by Boniface VIII. in 1300), are the scanty ruins of Fidenae. Albano {Hotel de la Poste ; Ristorante Salus- tri) is 18 miles from Rome (1 hr. ; fares, 3 1. 90 c, 3 1. 10 c, 1 1. 90 c), by rly. across Campagna, crossing ITALY. 367 lines of aqueducts and Via Latina. Climb of f lir # (2^ M.) from stat. to Albano (omnibus, J.I.); Omni- buses ran twice daily from Rome to Albano (2^ hrs. ; 2^ 1.). You can also drive hither over Appian Way. At Albano were Pompey's Villa, Domitian's great Albanum, the vineyards whose wine Horace praised, and the mediaeval fortress of the Savelli. It has many Roman relics, especially in the Villa Doria (open to visitors). The high situation of Albano (1,250 ft.) and its pure air make it a favorite summer-resort. The town is famous for handsome women. Beyond the Villa Batberini is the large papal palace of Castel Gandolfo, still pertaining to the Pope. Beautiful view from Capuchin Monastery. Good roads on upper and lower galleries on E. of Lake Albano, an extinct crater, shaded with trees, and one of the love- liest of Italian lakes. The Romans (b.c. 397) cut a tunnel (still remaining) through the rock, and partly drained it, in obedience to an oracle. Alba Long a was near by. A magnificent arcaded stone viaduct, 1,020 ft. long and 192 ft. high (built 1846-63), crosses the glen from Albano to ancient Ariccia (Martorelli), a town and palace pertaining to the Chigi family. Roads lead through noble old forests to Rocca di Papa, a village near reputed camp of Hannibal. The Via Triumphalis ascends to crest of Monte Cavo (3,130 ft. high ; very broad view), where are remains of great Temple of Jupiter Latiaris, the chief shrine of the Latin League (Passionist monastery founded here in 1783). This region is described by Virgil in last books of JBneid, where Juno, from Monte Cavo, observes the Latin and Roman armies. Beautiful scenery toward Genzano (Torti), 3 M. from Albano, whence one overlooks the crystalline Lake of N end, 2| M. around, and 300 ft. deep, in an extinct crater. Ovid speaks of this lake. 868 FRASCATI. — TIYOLI. •which was called the Mirror of Diana, from a temple of the goddess on its shore. Here Tiberius had a splendid vessel afloat. Frascati {Frascati; Pannelli), 15 M. by ry. from Rome (fares, 2 1. 70 c, 2 1. 15 a, 11. 30 c), is on a foot-hill of the Alban Mts., in a very healthy climate. It has many fine old 16th century villas, among which see Aldobrandini, with fine fountains and oak groves ; Falconieri (1550), with many pictures and pretty gardens ; Rujfinella, now owned by Prince Lancelotti ; Mondragone, now a Jesuits' school ; and Piccolomini, where Baronius lived. A shaded road leads hence to Tusculum, founded by Ulysses's son Selegonus, the birthplace of Cato, and favorite residence of Cicero. It held out valiantly against Hannibal, but was destroyed by a papal Roman army in 1191. See Roman amphi- theatre, recently excavated Villa of Cicero, reser- voir, Camaldoli Convent, and lofty Citadel (2,218 ft. high), with magnificent view. 3 M. distant, by a forest-road, is Grotta Ferrata, a Greek Basilian monastery (founded 1002), with famous frescos by Domenichino. Hence a guide will lead in 1-J hrs. to Rocca.di Papa and Monte Cavo. 4£ M. distant is Marino, an old Orsini fortress on Alban Mts., captured in 1424 (and still held) by the Colonnas. Good pictures in the three chs. Three M. hence is rly. stat., 35 min. (2 1., H l-> 1 1.) from Rome. Pleasant road also to Castel Gandolfo and Alban o. Tivoli (Plebiscito; Regina; Sibilla) is 25 M. from Home by ry. (ret., 4 1. 55 c, 3 1. 20 c, 2 1. 5c.) or car- riage (1-horse, 151. ' 2-horse, 201.), passing near Grotto of Cervara. This was the ancient Tibur, founded 5 centuries before Rome, and conquered by Camillus, B.C. 380. Here dwelt Maecenas, Horace, Propertius and Catullus ; and here Zenobia passed her captivity. ITALY. 369 Augustus, Hadrian, and other emperors and nobles had palaces here. It is now a huddled town of 7,000 inhab. 1 M. out is Hadrian's Villa (get permit at Palazzo Brasehi, Rome), once the finest in the world, with many imposing buildings, covering several square M. It was destroyed by Totila's Goths, and only the most fragmentary ruins remain. The beautiful circular Corinthian Temple of the Sibyl (probably dedicated to Hercules or Vesta) and the oblong Ionic temple adjacent (now ch. of S, Giorgio) command a fine view of the Falls. Path leads to Grotto of Neptune and Sirens' Grotto. The chief fall is 380 ft. high; the smaller falls are Le Cascatelle. Many other fine bits of scenery here, and Roman ruins ; also, Villa Brasehi, overlooking Campagna, and Villa d' PJste (1549), with very lovely gardens and ancient frescos. Many charming excursions hence among Sabine Mts. Monte Gennaro (4,800 ft.) may be ascended in 6 hrs. by bridle path. It is ll£ M. from Tivoli to Valley of Bicenza. site of Horace's Sabinum farm. 23 M. (5 hrs.) up Anio Valley is Subiaco {La Pernice), a media? vai castle-crowned town, built on remains of Nero's villa, and with very famous monastries of S. Scolastica and S. Benedetto, a vast group of cloisters on site where St. Benedict lived. Palestrina, 22 M. from Rome (daily omnibus), 12 from Frascati, 4£ from Vaimontone stat., was the ancient Proeneste; conquered by Camillus (b.c. 380); headquarters of Marius; favorite Roman summer- resort (see Horace); scene of terrible wars between Colonnas and popes in Middle Ages; and since 1630 the property of the Barberini. See Cyclopean walls, immense but shapeless Roman ruins, Barberini Palace, Colonna fortress (1322), and vast view. over Campagna. Bracciano (Piva), 24 M. from Rome (omnibus alternate days, in 6 hrs. ; 4 1.), has a wonderful old 370 OSTIA. — NAPLES. Gothic castle of lava, which Sir Walter Scott greatly admired. It was built by the Orsini, and is now owned by Odescalchi. Fine view from tower. Adjacent lake Is 20 miles around, and abounds in eels. Ostia, 14 M. from Rome, near mouth of Tiber, once had 80,000 inhab., but now has scarcely 100. The Saracens were terribly defeated here about a.d. 850. See S. Aurea Episcopal Palace, and tombs, temples and baths of adjacent ruined city and seaport of classic age. 2 M. hence is very interesting Cast el Fusano, a Chigi stronghold against pirates, 1^ M. from sea, in great pine-forest. There are many other deeply interesting excursions near Rome. See Hare's Days Near Rome, Baede- ker's Central Italy, Murray, Hachette or Cook. Naples, Bala, Pompeii, Sorrento, Capri. Express trains, Rome to Naples, 5-£- hrs. (fares, 34^1., 23^-1.); ordinary trains, 9 hrs. (fares lower). Some travellers go from Rome to Civita Vecchia by rly., and thence by steamer, for the sake of the lovely view entering the Bay of Naples. Paris to Naples, via Turin, Florence and Rome, in 53 hrs. (fares, 246^ fr., 203 fr. 10 c). Marseilles to Naples oy sea, 181 fr., 128 fr. Naples is a convenient point of departure for Mediterranean ports. Steamships sail frequently for Alexandria, Tunis, Cagliari, Messina, Palermo, Genoa, Leghorn, and Marseilles. Hotels: Bertolini's; Parker's; Bristol; Excelsior; 3Iacpherso?i , s ; Eden ; Metropole ; du Vesuve ; de Londres ; Grand ; des Etrangers ; Splendid ; Santa Lucia; Grande Bretagne; Riviera; Victoria; Savoy. Baggage is sometimes examined on arriving at Naples, by excise officers, but formalities are slight. NAPLES. 371 Conveyances. — Hotel omnibus, 1^1. ; public omni- bus, 20 c. Baggage, 20 c. a piece. 2-horse cab, 1 1. 40 c. ; 1-horse cab, 70 c. Smallboats from steamship to shore, 1 1. each person, l£ with usual baggage. Pay no attention to extortionate demands, with which boatmen usually begin. Beware of beggars and people who offer their services. A rly. runs N.-E. (124 M. ; 5-8 hrs.) from Naples across Italy, by Benevento, to Foggia, on the Adri- atic, connecting there with rly. to Brindisi and Taranto, on S., and Ancona and N. Italy. By this route it is 19-20 hrs. to Bologna. The rly. from Rome to Naples passes Velletri, an ancient Volscian town (16,500 inhab.), with fine old Cathedral; Sgurgola, 4i M. from Anagni, a famous old papal town; Ferentino stat.,3 M. from Ferentino, a venerable Hernician hill-town, with castle, cathedral and huge polygonal walls; Frosinone stat.,2^- M. from beautifully situated hill-town oi Frosinone, and 9-10 M. from very curious old Alatri, with cyclopean walls; Ceprano stat., 21 M. from Ceprano, and the stat. for Falls of the Litis and Cicero's Villa; Aquino, birth- place of Emperor Pescennius Niger, Juvenal, and Thomas Aquinas ; Cassino (or S. Germano), a busy town, with Roman amphitheatre, Varro's Villa, and tombs (a climb of 1% hr. leads to the world-renowned and magnificent Benedictine monastery of Monte Cassino, with hospitable monks and peerless views) ; Teano, with great castle and Roman remains ; Capua, a town of 14,000 inhab., in broad plain of Campania Felice, with noble basilica, fortress, triumphal arch, ancient chs. ; and S. Maria, on site of ancient Capua, with amphitheatre for 100,000 persons, - and other Roman ruins. The rly. runs thence over the vast and populous plain of the Terra di Lavoro, to Naples. Naples is a city of 500,000 inhab., with little of architectural or antiquarian interest, but blest with a 372 NAPLES. — CHIAJA. superb situation, mild climate, and beautiful environs, It is built on the amphitheatrical slopes of kills, shelter- ing it from the N. wind, and nearly bisected by the abrupt ridge of S. Elmo and Pizzofalcone. Its view includes a semicircle of azure sea, the villages around the bay, and many picturesque hills. The busy and crowded Via Roma, still popularly called by its old name of Via Toledo, runs N. I& M. from Palazzo Reale, near the harbor. The vast and interesting National Museum (open daily, 9-3, 11., children, fl.; no fees allowed ; free, Sunday, 10-1), is in old Spanish cavalry. barracks (1586), occupied by Univexv sity, 1615-1780. There is a good handbook. See 1,600 ancient mural paintings, from Pompeii, etc. ; epigraphic collection ; long range of rooms with Egyp. tian and Etruscan antiquities ; finest existing collection of ancient bronzes, including Dancing Faun, Narcissus, Mercury, Sleeping Faun, and bust of Seneca ; 18,000 small bronze objects from Pompeii, etc. ; immense collec- tions of ancient glass, terra-cotta, Cumsean antiquities, numismatic objects ; many marble and bronze statues, including Farnese Bull (restored by Michael Angelo), Earnese Hercules, Venus, Wounded Gladiator, Ocean, Flora, Nile, Farnese Juno, JEschines, Balbus ; famous mosaics of Battle of Issus and Triumph of Bacchus ; great collection of papyri MSS., from Herculaneum ; 7 rooms full of Greek and Italian vases; and gems, jewels, food, and silver plate from Pompeii. The Pic- ture Gallery has 800 paintings, Neapolitan, Tuscan, Bolognese, Roman, Venetian, German, and Flemish, including several by Raphael, Titian, and Correggio. The Library (open 9-3) has 200,000 vols., 4,000 MSS., and many valuable autographs. The Chiaja, seat of chief hotels for foreigners, is a narrow strip between the S. Elmo and Posilippo ridges NAPLES. 373 and the harbor, with pretty parks (music at evening) along waterside. On E., projecting into the sea, is the black and gloomy Castel dell' Ovo (1154), often, besieged, and now a prison. Thence Strada S. Lucia leads to Arsenal, through busy and interesting scenes. Overhead is hill of Pizzofalcone, over which one may pass, by the lion-guarded Victory Column of the martyrs for liberty, and the Miranda Palace, to the centre of the city. The Palazzo Reale (its porter gives permits to all the Neapolitan royal palaces) was built in 1600, by order of Philip III. of Spain, and rebuilt in 1837-41. It is 554 ft. long, with grand staircase, throne-room, and many fine old paintings and carvings, and view of harbor from garden. Opposite, across handsome Piazza del Plebiscite, is S. Francesco di Paola, a copy of Roman Pantheon, with 30 marble Corinthian columns support- ing dome, altar covered with jasper and lapis lazuli, and many modern pictures. Near by, see Palace of Prince of Salerno ( official residence ) , Foresteria Palace, and Canova's equestrian statues of the Bourbons, Charles III. and Ferdinaid I. Alongside Palazzo Reale is Theatre of S. Carlo (1737), one of the largest in the world. See public scribes in arcades ; and statues of Horse-Tamers, before palace-gardens. The great Cas- tel Nuovo, built by Charles of Anjou in 1283, and enlarged in 1442, 1546, and 1735, was the home of the Anjou and Aragon sovereigns, and the Spanish viceroys. See beautiful Triumphal Arch (1470), armory, and ch. of S. Sebastiano, with very famous picture. Close by, see Arsenal (1577) ; Porto Militare, with. Italian iron-clads ; busy Porto Grande — the shipping harbor ; and Molo, a long breakwater, with battery and light-house (ascend this, for view) Across the square before Castle stands handsome Municipal Palace. 374 ^APLFS. — UNIVERSITY. S. Giacom\> degli Spagnuoli (1540) has splendid mausoleum of Spanish Yiceroy, Don Pedro de Toledo, Near by is beautiful fountain, erected in 1695 by Duke of Medina Celi; also, Incoronata r ch. (1352), within- teresting Giottesque frescos ; and Palazzo Fondi, with picture-gallery. The Monte Oliveto Benedictine Monastery (1411), on Via di Roma, is now a market. Here Tasso dwelt in 1588. In ch. see many notable old tombs and pic^ tuxes. In the rear, see S. Maria la Nuova (1268 ; restored in 1596), with famous frescos and tombs ; and Post-Offlce, in beautiful old Palazzo Oravina (1500). Farther along Via di Roma, see Palazzo Maddaloni (now a bank), with richly frescoed hall ; and Palazzo Angri (1773), once Garibaldi's headquarters. Strada S. Trinita leads to r. towards Gesit Nuova ch. (1584), with many frescos (opposite is refectory of S. Chiara, with Giot- tesque frescos) ; S. Chiara (1310), with burial-chapel of Bourbons, splendid monument of Robert the Wise (1343), pulpit on 4 lions, and Madonna by Giotto; lofty and imposing B. Domenico (1285), on a square between palaces, and containing 27 princely chapels, rich in Renaissance art, altar of Florentine mosaic, tombs of the Aragonese sovereigns, and of many nobles and prelates, banner and sword (and tomb) of Marquis of Pescara (Vittoria Colonna's husband), and many pictures ; cell and lecture-room of Thorn a? Aquinas (1272) ; Chapel of S. Severo (1590), crowded with decoration, and containing remarkable sculptures of Man in the Net and Christ in Winding- Sheet; SS. Angela e Nilo (1385) ; University (1224), in old Jesuit College, with 5 faculties, and very good library (open 9-3) • S. Severino e Sosio, with notable tombs and frescos, and beautiful cloisters in rear (adja- cent Benedictine monastery has prioress archives of NAPLES. 375 Naples, 40,000 parchments, beginning a. d. 703); Pa- lazzo Santangelo (1466), with picture-gallery; Cas- tello Capuano (1231), once home of Hohenstaufen kings, and seat (after 1540) of Spanish and present law-courts; and Capuan Gate (restored in 1535), a noble piece of architecture. The Cathedral, not far from the Gate, was built 1272-1314, on site of Temple of Neptune. It is a basilica, with shrine and tomb of St. Januarius, many frescos, and tombs of 2 popes, 2 kings of hungary, etc. Adjacent is S. RestUuta, a basilica with Corinthian columns, and baptistery attributed to Constantine (a.d. 333); also, magnificent Chapel of St. Januarius (1608), rich in gold and silver, precious stones, and other adorn- ments, and enshrining the blood of the saint. 1% M. beyond Capuan Gate are the great cemeteries, the New, with Doric ch., Gothic monastery, and 102 chapels; the Old, with 365 closed vaults for the burial of the poor; and the Protestant, with many English and American graves. Between Castello Capuano and harbor, see SS. Annunziata (1757); Porta Nolana ; the huge Cas- tello del Carmine (1484), now a barrack and prison; S. Maria del Carmine, with tomb and noble statue of King Conradin; Piazza del Mercato (where Conradin was executed, in 1268), with three fountains; Carmine Gate, with two massive towers; and a very extensive quarter, with scores of narrow and sinuous streets, crowded with picturesque Nea- politans, macaroni-pedlers, story tellers, fishermen, etc. S. Giovanni a Carionara (1344), N. of Cathe- dral, has splendid mausoleum of King Ladislaus (1414). Farther N. are Botanical Gardens and vast Poor-House. Between Cathedral and Via di Roma, see S. Filippo Neri (1592), rich in paintings; S. Paolo Maggiore (1691), in whose cloisters are many ancient Roman columns; S. Lorenzo (1266), with 373 CASTEL SANT' ELMO. many frescos and fine cloisters (Petrarch and Boccaccio have been here) ; the Gothic S. Pietro a Maiella (1316), with monastery adjacent, now a school of music, where Bellini was taught, and Mercadante was director. Opposite Museum stands Ginnado Vittorio Emanuele (1757), with 26 statues, and a statue of Dante in front. Prom 8th-century ch. of S. Gennaro, enter the Cata~ combs (fee, 11.), excavated by ancient Christians, and much broader and higher than those at Rome. Myriads of dead have been buried here. Farther out is Capodimonte Palace (fee, 11.), built for the Bourbon kings (1738-1839), with long lines of state- rooms, many pictures, rich furniture, a large garden, and lovely views, f M. distant is the Observatory, on far- vie wing crest of Capodimonte. Castel^Sant' Elmo (1343), 876 ft. above the bay, is reached by a street from the Museum. It is a vast and ponderous fortress (now military prison) overlook- ing the. city and sea. Close by is old Carthusian monastery of S. Martino (now part of National Mu- seum; open 9-5 ; 11.), built in 1325. See museum of majolica, ivories, etc. ; very beautiful cloisters, sur- rounded by white-marble columns, and adorned with statues; and magnificent ch., lined with choice marbles and mosaics, and adorned with famous paintings. Exquisite views from this monastery. Excursions from Naples. — Beyond the Chiaja and Villa Nazionale, with their statues, temples, and aquarium, the Mergellina extends along the shore, under Posilippo, with beautiful sea- views, and by nu- merous villas, and the insulated 17th-century Palace of Donna Anna (now in ruins) . Near the Chiaja stands ancient ch., in which is the great mausoleum of the poet Sannazaro The road W. from the Chiaja leads through Grotta di Posilippo, a well-lighted tunnel m ITALY. 377 the rock, £ M. long, replacing grotta, now closed, cut through by Augustus, and mentioned by Seneca. Over its E. end is so-called Tomb of Virgil Q 1.), a Roman tomb with recesses for urns. Petrarch and King Robert visited this spot, and planted laurel. Near by was Virgil's villa, where he wrote the Eclogues and Georgics. Road through tunnel leads to Grotto of Sejanus (11.), a tunnel cut through the rocky ridge by Nerva (b.c. 37), and repaired by Honorius (a.d. 400). It is f M. long, and higher and wider than Posilippo tunnel. Near by, see many remains of villas of Lucul- lus, Pollio, and other Roman lords. Also, on islet of Nisida, site of villa where Cicero visited Brutus (b.c. 44), after he had killed Csesar; and afterwards of Queen Johanna II. 's villa (15th century). The Lake of Anagno (a crater; now drained) is f M. from fuorigrotta, (where see tomb of Leopardi, in ch.); and near by are singular ancient baths of sulphurous gas ; also, Grotto del Cane, famous for carbonic-acid, whose effects 'are tried on unhappy dogs, It is 6 M. from Naples over this road to Pozzuoli, on site of Greek colony conquered by Rome, and later chief port of Italy, and depot of Oriental trade. Here Sylla died ; Hadrian was buried ; St. Paul sojourned 7 days ; and Cicero had a villa. See remnants of Temples of Berapis (formerly very splendid), Neptune (pillars rising from sea), and the Nymphs ; many Roman tombs; Piscina Grande, a great reservoir; Capuchin monastery (1580) ; Roman quay, now called Bridge of Caligula ; Cathedral, with tomb of Pergolesi ; and Amphitheatre (^ 1.), seating 30,000, where Nero gave gladiatorial combats before the King of Armenia, and St. Jauuariu? was exposed to the lions. Near by, see Solfatara, a low crater with warm earth, hot alum springs, and many fissures whence gases rise (last eruption of lava 378 bAIA. — CUM.E. in 1198) ; and Monte Nuovo, a volcanic hill (now vine* yards) thrown up in 1538. To the W. lies Lah Lncrimcs, whence the Romans obtained their best oys ters, and the Neapolitans get choice fish. Lake Aver- tins, a picturesque crater-pond, 1-| M. around, amid chestnut and orange groves, was held to be the entrance to the infernal regions, until Augustus made it a harbor by cutting a canal to Ihe bay. The fabled entrance to Hades is shown in adjacent Grotto of the Sibyl (1 1.), a tunnel 840 ft. long. The Grotto, delta Pace, \ M. long, leads from W. shore towards Cumse/ catting through intervening ridge. The Baths of Nero are long rock-passages, containing hot springs, in whose waters eggs may be cooked. Baia (Regina) was the most magnificent of summer- resorts in time of Cicero, Augustus, and Hadrian, and was praised by Horace. The Saracens destroyed it; and the Spanish viceroys built a castle and light-house L>n the site. Here are massive ruins w of temples of Venus, Diana, and Mercury, villas of Julius Caesar, Nero, and Hortensius, a splendid Roman reservoir, and other remnants of antiquity. To the S. is Cape Mi- seno, near site of great Roman naval station of Misenum, and commanding a superb view. 1 M. from Baia is Lake o/Fusaro, \\ M. N. of which are ruins of great Cumse, which was founded by Greeks (b.c. 1050), and had profound influence in Italy, founding Naples, giving the Sibylline books to Rome, receiving the Tarquius, defeating the Etruscans, and finally con- quered by the Samnites and Romans. The Goth? restored it, but the Moslems destroyed the town ; and 6 centuries ago the Neapolitans annihilated it, as a den of pirates. Near ky, see Acropolis, with fortifications and noble views; half-buried Amphitheatre ; fragments of old temples ; and huge brick arch of Arco Felice, 64 ft, high. Pozzuoli, Baia, Cumge, etc., may be seen in 1 day by carriage (25 1. ; 1-horse carriage, 10-12 1.). Take guide from Naples (5 1.), to escape local annoyances. Mount Vesuvius is about 4,000 ft. high, and 30 M. around, isolated on the Plain of Campania, and with 80,000 people living in its chestnut valleys. In a.d. 79 it had a terrible volcanic eruption (described by Pliny and Tacitus), since which 60 or more have occurred, entailing vast losses of life and the annihi- lation of many villages and cities. Enormous losses were caused by the eruption of 1872. Of a crowd which watched its beginning, 20 persons were swept away and destroyed by the outbursting lava. The cable road* now obviates much of the labor formerly neces- sary in ascent. Beautiful view from Observatory; and from summit you can see a vast area of sea and land. Excursion from Naples to summit and return , 21 i. exclusive of fees of official guid*. at summit. Herculaneum, founded by Hercules, and later a town of Roman villas, was buried by an eruption of Vesuvius, a.d. 79, and discovered in 1719, when a well was hems' dug. Since then, excavations have shown that 10-90 it. beneath the present town of Resina is a large and splendid ancient city, whose statues, mural paintings, papyri, etc., are adorning the mu- seums. It was richer than Pompeii, but is much more deeply buried, and under a more impenetrable covering. Little has yet been excavated, but that little should be seen (2 1. for guide and torch). The residences and shops excavated in 1868 are very interesting; the theatre, though immense in size, is too dark to be well seen. Pompeii (Suisse; Diomede) is nearly 1 hr. from Naples (5 trains daily ; fares, 21. 75 c, 1 1. 90 c. y 11. 10 c), by fly. passing through Portici (la,0CMI 380 POMPEII. jihab.) ; Resina, near La Favorita, royal chateau, and at foot of Vesuvius ; and Torre del Greco, swept by 4 streams of lava within 300 years. Beautiful views of buy and volcano. Read about Pompeii before going there. Near Pompeii stat. is entrance to ruins (21.; guide furnished ; no gratuity ; stay as long as you like). Pompeii was a Greek commercial city (b.c. 400-500), which was subjugated by Rome, and became a favorite resort of her nobles and emperors (with 25,000 inhab.). It was overthrown by earthquake, a.d. 63 ; rebuilt immediately ; and in 79 buried under 20 ft. of ashes from Vesuvius, when 2,000 citizens lost their lives. Excavations were begun in 1748, and are still going on, The walls are 1^ M. around, with 8 gates. The streets are 14-24 ft. wide, paved with deeply rutted lava blocks, with stepping-stones and fountains at cor- ners. The concrete or brick lower stories of houses remain; the other stories were burnt. The shops, taverns, homes, street-notices, etc., are very interesting. Note Temple of Venus ; Forum, where main streets ■converged, with Temple of Jupiter, Prison, Basilica, Triumphal Arch, Public Granary, Temple of Mercury, beautiful Chalcidicum, Tovjn Hall, Temple of Augustus. See House of Wild Boar in Street of Abundance; Triangular Forum ; the two Theatres; barracks of the soldiers; House of Sculptor ; Stabim Gate; Temple of Isis; House of Holconius ; vast amphitheatre , which seated 20,000. Thence visit Stabian Therma, Balcony House, Houses of Siricus and Marcus Lucretius, of the Chase, of Ariadne, of Grand Duke of Tuscany, of Figured Capitals, of Black Walls ; Temple of Fortune; Public Baths; House of the Vettii; House of the Faun; House of Anchor, of tragic Poet (Bulwer describes it in Last Days of Pompeii); Fuller's Shop; Great and Idttle Fountains; House of Pansa, of Labyrinth, of CASERTA. — SORRENTO. 38 1 Castor and Pollux, of Centaur; of Meleager, Adonis^ Apollo; Academy of Music ; Bake-house; Soap-shop; Barber s Shop ; Custom House ; Street of Tombs ; and Villa of Diomedes (where several bodies were found), beyond Herculaneum Gate. There are many curiosities in the museums, especially casts of the bodies found in the ruins. You may ride hence on horseback (1-| hrs.) to cairn of stones on Vesuvius ; whence climb (1 hr. on foot) to summit (guide and horse, 10 1.). Caserta {Vittorid), about 20 M. from Naples, on rly. to Rome, has a magnificent Royal Palace (1752), 834 ft. long and wide, and 134 high, with colonnaded courts, famous gardens and cascades, beautiful views, and sumptuous apartments. See chapel, highly en- riched with lapis lazuli and gold ; and theatre, with 16 antique Corinthian columns of African marble. No one should leave Naples without having visited Sorrento, Amain, and Salerno. Rly. in 1 hr. (3 1. 10 c, 21. 15 c, 11. 25 c), along shore of bay., to Castella- raare {Hotel Weiss; Quisisand), a famous Neapolitan summer-resort and Italian naval station (33,000 inhab.), near overwhelmed ruins of Stabise, and with 13th-cen- tury castle, royal chateau of Quisisana (on the hill), and Monte S. Angelo, 5,000 ft. high, with superb view (guide and donkey, 51.). Here also are famous sul- phurous and ferruginous springs. An excellent road (7i M. ; carriage, 5 1.) between the mts. and Bay, leads hence, by Vico and Meta, and a delicious paradise of orange and olive groves, to Sorrento (Gran Bretagna; Anqleterre ; Tasso, where Tasso was born, 1544; Sirena; Vittoria; Tramontano) , an ancient seaport on Bay of Naples, famous for exquisite scenery, and delightfully cool summer-elimate (it faces N.). Quaint villages, ancient chs., natu:^l curiosities, villas and convents, glens and myrtle-groves, rocky islets and 382 CAPRI. — ISCHIA. points, make this region very charming-. Steamboats leave Naples (S. Lucia) at 9 a.m. daily, for Sorrento (6 1. ; return-tickets, 10 1.), Capri (8 1.; return, 12 1.); and Ischia. Boat from Sorrento to Capri, 5 1., in two hours (bad trip in rough weather). Capri (Tioerio and Quisisana, both kept by English people ; Pagano; Grotte Bleue), the "Island, of Goats," is 4^- M. long, with almost unbroken lines of cliffs, and far- vie wing mts. 2,000 ft. high. There are 4,500 inhab., mostly farmers and coral fishers. Augustus and Tiberius built many villas and palaces here. In 1803 Capri was strongly fortified by the English; but Murat captured it five years later. On E„ see ruins of Villa of Tiberius, and the cliff, 700 ft. high, called Salto di Tioerio, whence the cruel Emperor forced his victims to leap into the sea. Near by is an inn. See Natural Arch; Grotto of Ifitliras; lofty village of Anacajjri, with Barbarossa's castle ; and 31o?ite Solaro, with superb view. The most celebrated of the caverns is the Blue Grotto, 106 by 80 ft. in area, and 40 ft. high, partly filled by beautifully azure sea-water, and lighted and entered only by a low and narrow aperture, where the sea beats against the cliff (boat, 2 1. for 2 persons ; 1 1. for each additional). The Wliite, Red, Green, and Stalactite Grottos are also visited by boat. Ischia is a fertile island 15. M. around, with 25,000 inhab., devoted to vineyards and fisheries, with delightful summer climate, castle of Alfonso I. of Aragon, lovely village of Casamicciola (damaged in 1883 by earthquake), and grand view from top of quiescent volcano of Epomeo. Ischia has been ravaged by Romans, Saracens, Pisans, Nea- politans, and French; and was the home of Vit- toria Colonna and Maria of Aragon. Boat from Naples in two hrs. (fares, 5 l. ? 3£ 1.). Procida SALERNO. — P^ESTUM. — AMALFI. 383 is a neighboring volcanic island, 3 M. long, with 14,000 inhab., originally settled, like Capri and Ischia, by Greeks. Salerno (Hotel cVAngleterre) is a picturesque old provincial capital (22,000 inhab.), 33^ M. from Naples (rly. fares, 6 1. 15 c, 44-1., 2 1. 45c), fronting on a magnificent bay, with fine quay, 1-J M. long,, irregular medieval streets, ancient Lombard Castle, and delightfully quaint old Cathedral (1084), with many antique columns, sarcophagi, and mosaics, and tombs of St. Matthew, Pope Gregory the Great, Margaret of Anjou, etc. The University was very celebrated in Middle Ages (see Longfellow's Golden Legend). Paestum, 23 M. from Salerno, by railway over dull shore-plains, founded by Greeks, B.C. 600, and destroyed by Saracens, is a collection of the finest Greek ruins in existence (out of Athens), including Temple of Neptune, 189 by 84 ft., with 52 fluted Doric columns; Temple of Ceres, 105 by 45 ft., with 84 fluted columns; and Basilica, 177 by 80 ft., with 60 columns; well-preserved travertine town- walls 3 M. around; amphitheatre, Roman temple, Street of Greek tombs. Admission to temples, 1 1., Sun. free. Amalfii (Luna), a lovely village (7,000 inhab.), where a great mt. -gorge opens on Gulf of Salerno, was once a flourishing commercial republic, rivalling Genoa and Pisa, but yielded to the armies of Naples 'in 1131. Near the Marina quay is the 11th-century Cathedral, with campanile and cloisters, rich mosaics 1 and Byzantine bronze doors, and tomb of St. Andrew. 'A landslide in December, 1899, destroyed the ancient ^apucin monastery and two hotels. 1^ hour's climb leads to Ravello (once 30,000 inhab., now 1,500), with magnificent 11th-century cathedral and ■.Rufalo Palace (here Pope Adrian IV. and Robert the 384 SICILY. — MESSINA. Wise lived), both in rich Saracenic architecture, and other notable chs. Amalfi may be reached from Sorrento, by boat and path, in 5 hrs. It is better to go there from Salerno (1^-2 hrs.; 1-horse carriage, 5-6 l.) i over one of the noblest roads in the world, through 6 villages, amid vineyards and orange and lemon groves, by Charles V.'s anti-Saracenic watch-towers. Majori {Beau Site Hotel), near Amalfi, is a charm- ing spot. Sicily, This beautiful island may be conveniently visited from Naples, whence steamships run, several times weekly, to Palermo and Messina (15-22 hrs. ; fares, 40 1. 60 c; 24 1. 60 c, to either port), passing Capri, Stromboli, and the Lipari Isles. Travellers can avoid sea-trip by uncomfortable 26 hrs. (436 M.) rly. ride from Naples through Salerno; Eboli; Cosenza (Alaric's grave), with 18,000 inhab.; Tiriolo ; lofty Monteleone, with 10,000 inhab.; Mileto, whence Sicilian mts. are seen ; Palmi; and Scilla, where 1,500 persons were killed by earthquake of 1783 (and near Homer's Scylla); to Reggio, once a beantiful city of 35,000 souls, but totally destroyed, with the loss of 20,000 of its inhabitants, in the earthquake of December 28, 1908. French steamers run from Marseilles to Palermo in 50 hrs. Italian boats from Genoa to Palermo in 33 hrs. Steamers run round Sicily weekly, from Paler- mo, touching at chief ports. Messina, formerly the chief commercial town of Sicily, with 150,000 inhab., had a magnificent situa- tion on an amphi theatrical slope, over a secure and well-fortified harbor. It was founded by the Greeks, B.C. 732; conquered by Samos, Athens (b.c. 427), SICILY. - CATANIA. 385 Carthage (396 and 270), Mamertines, Rome, Sara- cens, Normans, English (Coeur de Lion), Spaniards, French and Italians ; often ravaged by fire, plague, and earthquake. These evil days had left it but few antiquities. The Norman Cathedral (1098) had 26 antique columns, mosaics, royal tombs and sarcophagi; and in front was the splendid Montorsoli Fountain (1647-51). In the early morning of Dec. 28, 1908, Messina was again visited by an earthquako, the severest in its long history of disasters, which threw down or ruined nearly every building in the city, killing, according to the most trustworthy estimates, 100,000 persons, or two-thirds of the entire popula- tion. The towns on both sides of the Strait of Mes- sina, estimated to number at least 60, were at the same time more or less completely destroyed within a space of twelve seconds, 165,000 persons being killed. Ry. hence in 3 h. by Taormina{Griardini sta.), with grand ruins of a Greek theatre (whence famous view), acropolis and castle, and ducal palace; across lava fields of iEtna ; and by Aci-Beale, scene of adventures of Polyphemus, and Acis and Galatea - 3 to Catania (Bretagne; Albergo Centrale; Sangiorgi; DuGlobe), handsomest and most cultured city in Sicily (147,000 inhab., by the seaside, at foot of iEtna, and rich in palaces and villas, embowered in groves of orange. It was founded by Greeks, b. c. 730 ; and conquered by Athens, Carthage, Rome, the Goths, Byzantines, Saracens, Germans, and Spaniards. See Cathedral (1091), with tombs of 6 Aragonese sover- eigns, and of St. Agatha ; 8. Carcere, with relics ; cloisters and gardens, museum, library of suppressed Benedictine Monastery of S. Nicola, than which there was but one more splendid in the world (all its monks were of noble blood) ; underground remains of Grceco- Bcman Theatre and Odeum (fee, 2 1.) ; Roman Baths 25 386 MOUNT ;ETNA. — SYRACUSE. and Amphitheatre ; Roman Tombs ; University (1444), 500 students ; and public gardens of Villa Bellini, with Italian statues. Mount .SBtna (10,835 ft. high) may be ascended hence, by carriage (2| hrs.), to Nieolosi (20-25 1. there and back) ; whence 8 hrs. by lodge of Casa Inglese to summit (guide, 10 1. ; mule, 10 1.) ; return from top to Catania, 8-9 hrs. It is best to sleep at Casa Inglese (at base of cone of crater), and reach summit before sunrise. There have been over 80 re- corded eruptions, one of which (1693) destroyed 80,000 lives. In 1886 the last occurred. The view includes all Sicily and surrounding seas, Calabria, Lipari Isles, and Malta. Rly. from Catania (54 M. ; 91. 85 c, 6 1. 90 c, 41. 95c.) to Syracuse {Agradina; Villa Politi; Grand),once the most important city in the Greek world, now a quiet . modern port (31,000 inhab.), with very charming envi- rons, a noble harbor, narrow and crooked streets, and beautiful women who wear picturesque costumes. It was founded by Corinthians, B.C. 734 ; defeated the Carthaginians and Etruscans ; repulsed the besieging Athenian fleet and army (b.c. 414-13), with terrible losses ; beat off frequent attacks from Carthage ; entertained iEschylus, Pindar, Simonides, etc. ; and was defended by Archimedes against the Romans (b.c. 914-12), but fell and was nearly annihilated. Paul and Marcian preached here. It has since been ravaged by Franks, Byzantines, Normans, and Spaniards ; and has never recovered from the Moslem destruction in 878. The inhabitants still preserve the Greek type. See Cathe- dral, on site of Temple of Minerva, with remarkable font and leaning pillars ; Museum (open 9-1, 3-5 ) $ with fine Greek Yenus, and other antiquities ; Foun- tain of Arethusa, famed in Greek mythology, and still PALERMO. 387 surrounded by papyrus plants ; ruins of Temple of Diana; Castle ; and Montalto Palace. On mainland near by, see scanty remains of ancient Syracuse : Amphitheatre ; Latomia, or quarries once worked by slaves ; grotto called JEar s of Biom/sim ; Greek Theatre (480-406 b.c.) ; Fountain of Cyane, amid growing papyri ; fragments of Temple of Zeus Olj/mpius ; etc. Weekly steamers hence to Malta in 8 hrs. Palermo {Hotel de France ; Trinacria; Des Palmes; Centrale), the capital of Sicily (315,000 inhab.), is very beautifully situated between Mt. Pellegriuo and Cape Zaffarana, facing the sea, and has mild winters and intensely hot summers. It was settled from Phoenicia, strengthened from Greece, fortified by Carthage, cap- tured by Home, and governed in succession by the Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Germans, French, and English. On the beautiful Marina and La Flora prome- nades the Sicilian people of fashion congregate. The Cathedral (1169-85) is a great and imposing ch., with tombs of the Sicilian kings, and of Emperor Fred- erick II. ; immense silver sarcophagus containing remains of St. Rosalia ; many statues and carved choir stalls; and crypt, with tombs of ancient archbishops. La Martorana ch. (12th century) has curious old Greek mosaics, Corinthian columns, and a tall campanile. See also S. Cataldo (1161), a Sicilian-Norman ch. ; S. Giovanni degli Fremiti, in form of letter T, with 5 domes, and cloisters ; gorgeously ornamented Jesuits' ch, ; Norman S. Francesco d'Assisi ; and S. Domenico (1640), which can hold 12,000 persons The Museum (open 10-3 ; 11.) contains many Sicilian-Greek statues and sarcophagi, Pompeian antiquities, and a picture- gallery, mainly composed of paintings by old Sicilian masters. The Royal Palace is Saracenic, with notable apartments added b.y King Ro*£i\ Robert Guiscard, 388 PALERMO. — MONEEALE. Manfred, and Emperor Frederick II. Here also is magnificent Cappella Palatma (1132), the finest castle- chapel in the world, a basilica with Egyptian-granite columns, Saracenic arches, mosaics on gold, and many Arabian inscriptions. Superb view from Observatory. The great cloisters of the Spedale Grande (1330) are covered with frescos. Note Gothic windows of Archi- episcopal Palace ; large Municipal Palace ; University ; National Library (open 9-2) ; spacious and arcaded Paterno Palace ; Palace of the Tribunals (1307), long the home of the Inquisition ; Ganzia Monastery ; rich Botanical Garden; and Porta Nuova, triumphal arch for Charles V.'s solemn entry after his victory at Tunis. Monreale, 5 M. out, beyond Palace of Due d'Au- male, elegant old Saracenic palace of Cubola, Capuchin Monastery where Palermitan patricians are kept em- balmed, and rich gardens of Villa Tasca, is a large town which has risen around the Cathedral, founded by William II. in 1170. It is 333 X 132 ft. in area, with superb entrance ; bronze doors (1186) ; Saracenic arches ; cloisters supported on 216 columns ; and over 60,000 square ft. of magnificent mosaics, scriptural and historical. Monreale is 1231 ft. above the sea, and commands famous views. More than 1,900 ft. above is venerable Benedictine Monastery of S. Martino, with library, museum, and views. The celebrated Monte Pellegrino can be ascended in 2 hrs. Set ohrine and grotto of St. Rosalia, and immense sea-view. La Favorita is a splendid royal villa, beyond the so-called English Garden. Nearly 3 M. out is S. Maria di Gesu, a large suppressed monastery, with favorite view of Palermo. Ancient Saracenic villas and chateaux of modern Sicilian nobles abound in the environs. From Palermo it is 96 M. by rly. (15£ 1., 101. 70c, 7 1. 65c.) to GIRGENTL- CIVITA VECCHIA. 389 r GSrgenti {Hotel Belvedere; Des Temples), chief town on S. coast of Sicily (21,000 inhab. ). On mt. near by are ruins of Acragas (Agrigentum), which Pindar called " the most beautiful city of mortals." It was founded by Cretans; had 200,000 inhab., and vast wealth; was destroyed by Carthage, and became a Rornan colony. Here are fairly preserved ruins of Temples of Juno (with 34 columns), Hercules (88 columns), Concord (34 columns), Zeus (37 huge columns), and others; and walls, gates, cloaca), catacombs, tombs, etc., in great numbers. Leghorn, Pisa, Lucca, Genoa, Honaco. , Tourists who have reached Naples by rly. had best 'return 1ST. by sea. The Fraissinet steamships leave , Naples twice weekly for Civita Vecchia, Leghorn, ( Genoa and Marseilles. Civita Vecchia [Trajano ; Italia) is a fortified port of 12,000 inhab., founded by Trajan, and des- troyed by Saracens (in 828). Fortress, built after plans by Michael Angelo. Rly. across Maremma to Leghorn. Rly. to Rome, 50^- M., in 2 hrs. (fares, 9 1. 20 c. , 6 1. 40 c, 4 1. 60 c. ) . Time of voyage from Naples, 12-14 hrs. A voyage of 12 hrs., by Elba, leads hence to Leg- horn (Hotel d' Angleterre Campari; Grand; Griap- jpone; Bastia; Falcone e Patria), one of the chief Mediterranean ports (over 100,000 inhab.), fortified, well-built and modern. It was founded by the Medici family, as a refuge for the oppressed. See English Cemetery, with Smollett's tomb; fine statues of three Tuscan Grand-Dukes; venerated sailors' ch. on Monte Nero; piers and quays, with busy and chattering crowds, and handsome squares and Corso. Rly. to Pisa, 12 M. (2 1. 5 c, 1 1. 40 c, 1 1.). 390 PISA. Pisa (Hotel Vittoria; Nettuno; Grand Hotel Min- erve et Ville ; Grand Hotel; Hotel Washington) is a quiet and beautiful town (50,000 inhab.) near the mouth of the Arno, and 50 M. from Florence (fares, 81.80c, 61.20 c). It was conquered by Rome, B.C. 180 ; adorned with temples by Augustus and Ha- drian; became a rival of Tenice and Genoa in Middle Ages ; defeated the Saracens in many naval battles ; became anti-Papal, and was defeated by Genoa ; and since 1408 has been subject to Florence. It is very hot in summer, but the mildness of its winters attracts many Northern visitors to the quaint and sombre old town. It is surrounded by picturesque walls ; and has 3 bridges, and a fine quay along the Arno, on and near which you may see, on N. side, many palaces and chs., including 13th-century S. Michel e ; University (1493), with Renaissance court (statue of Galileo) and valuable library ; Alia Giornata, Vitelli and Royal Palaces ; S. Niccolo (1000), once Benedictine, with statue of Fer- dinand I. in front ; and Guelphic fortress, near Ponte a Mare. On S. shore, 12th-century S. Paolo, with handsome old facade ; Benedictine monastery ; Gam- bacorti Palace, now custom -house ; aS. Maria delta Spina (1230), a beautiful marble Gothic chapel, with fragment of Crown of Thorns ; rouud S. Sepolcro; and the Fortress. Back from the river, on N., see S. Fran- cesco (1300), with campanile ; Botanical Garden and Natural-History Museum ; 8. Sis to (1089); and Piazza del Cavalieri, the old Republican forum. Here stand Palazzo de' Cavalieri, with statues, and S° Stefano (1565), ch. of Knights of St, Stephen, with Turkish trophies and notable paintings The adjacent Acad- emy of Fine Arts (open 9-2) was founded by Napo- leon I., and contains many good Pisan and Florentine paintings. Lord Byron lived a long time in Palazzo PISA. 391 LanfrancH. S. Catcnna (1253) has interesting pictures, and stands in a pleasant square, near the old Roman baths and the Lucca Gate. In the remote N. W. corner of Pisa is a wonderful group of mediaeval buildings, nearly surrounded by gardens and the wall. The Cathedral, 311 X 106 ft. in area, and 109 ft. high in the nave, was founded in 1063, to commemorate defeat of Moslems at Palermo, and consecrated by Pope Gelasius II. in 1118. It is in magnificent Tuscan-Gothic architecture, of white and colored marbles, with remarkable facade of columns and arches, double aisles, and dome lined with Ciuiabue's mosaics. Inside are 65 antique columns (trophies of Pisan conquests), a splendidly gilded ceiling, bronze doors designed by John of Bologna, 12 altars designed by Michael Angelo, carved pulpit by Niccolo Pisano, altars enriched with silver and lapis lazuli, many rare pictures, and swinging bronze lamp from which Galileo got the idea of the pendulum. In front is the finest Baptistery in the world. It is round (100 ft. in diameter, and 190 ft. high) ; in Roman-Tuscan (1153-1278) and Gothic styles ; of marble; and surrounded with ancient columns. Inside, see six-sided pulpit on 7 columns, with 6 reliefs by Niccolo Pisano, and handsome font. The Leaning Tower (1174-1350), or Campanile, Dehind Cathedral, is 179 ft. high, in 8 stories, sur- rounded by colonnades, and containing 7 bells. It is 14 ft. out of the perpendicular. Grand view from top, of the Apennines, the coast, Elba, and Corsica. The Campo Santo ( open daily; 25c.) is an enclos- ure filled with scores of shiploads of sacred earth from Mt. Calvary, and consecrated to the burial of great men. The cloistered hall which surrounds it was built 1278-83, by John of Pisa, and is 424 ft. long and 145 392 LUCCA. - CARRARA. ft. broad, with 62 beautiful windows opening on the verdant court within. The walls are decorated with wonderful and curious 14th-century frescos of early Bible history and the Triumph of Death, some of which are attributed to Giotto and Orcagna. There are many splendid monuments in these cor- ridors, to Emperor Henry VII., Gregory XIII., Catalani, etc. ; and sculptures by Mino da Fiesole, John of Pisa, Luca della Robbia, Dupre, and Thor- waldsen. Excursions from Pisa. — To summer resort of Baths of Gombo, near which Shelley was drowned. To La Certosa, a Carthusian monastery, 6 M. out, on the Pisan Mts. To Basilica of S. Pietro in Grado (a.d. 1000), 3 M. out, where St. Peter landed in Italy. Rly. in 13 M. to Lucca (Universo ; Corona; Croce di Malta), a beautiful old walled city (74,000 inhab.), on a rich plain, and embowered in groves. A splendid Roman municipium, it afterwards became Gothic, Lombard, Frankish, ducal, republican, Pisan and Tuscan; and was home of Dante, and principality of Napoleon's sister. See sumptuous Romanesque Cathedral (1060-70), very rich in art; 7th-eentury Basilica of S. Frediano, built by Lombard kings, with rare old pictures; chs. of S. Giovanni, S. Romano, S. Francesco, and S. Michele, and old palaces; and walk around fine old ramparts. The Baths of Lucca {Hotel de V Europe; des Thermes; NeivYork; Pavilion; Queen Victoria), 12 M. N., among the Apennines, are a collection of 19 sulphuretted ferruginous springs. This has been a famous health resort for centuries. Pisa to Genoa, by rly., 102£ M. (fares, 18 1. 15 c, 131. 60 c, 10 1.). Sea-passage, Leghorn to Genoa, 9 hrs. The rly. lies between Apennines and sea, passing Carrara, a beautiful town of 23,000 inhab. SPEZIA. — GENOA. 393 (mostly sculptors and marble-workers), embowered is groves of chestnut, olive, orange, and lemon trees, and 2 hrs. from great marble-quarries, where 6,000 men are employed. La Spezia (Gran Bretagna; Oroce di Mal- ta; Italia) is the chief Italian naval port, strongly fortified and well equipped (66,000 inhab.), and was commended by Strabo as one of the vastest and best ports in the world. Many visitors come in summer for the sea-baths; and in winter, for the mild climate. Pleasant trip to Porto Venere {\\ hr.). The rly. goes on, by Sestri Le Dante and Lavagna, along shore of Mediterranean, with charming views, and through many tunnels. Genoa {Bristol; Modern; Eden Palace; Continen- tal; lsotta; Be Genes; Be la Ville: Be Bondres; Metropole; Be Prance; Smith; Central), called by its citizens La Superba, has 211,000 inhab., and is Italy's chief commercial town. It was founded by Ligurians j became Roman ; enriched itself in Crusades ; conquered great Levantine domains ; fought many wars with Venice, Pisa, and the Moslems ; was torn for centuries by Guelph-Ghibelline civil wars ; maintained itself as a republic from 10th century to 19th ; was annexed to Prance in 1800;. and in 1815 became Sardinian. It has more imposing marble palaces than any other city •, but the streets are narrow, steep, and crooked. It presents a vast hemicycle of buildings, ranged along the hills like seats in an- amphitheatre, with bold wooded heights above. Ramparts, 7 M. long, defend the city; and an outer line, 20 M. long, with towers and intrenchments, traverses the hills beyond The Harbor is sheltered by 2 long piers with light-houses ; and separated from the town by a high arcaded wall, by which fishermen and sailors take their ease. At end near the chief hotels, there is a marble terrace 1,500 ft. 394 GENOA. long and 45 ft. wide, affording pleasant view of harbor. Near by is handsome 16th-century Exchange, with statue of Cavour. The Custom House contains many statues of Genoese worthies in its main hall. Splendid view of city, sea, and Riviera from dome of S. Maria di Carignano, on high hill to S. E. The Cathedral (1100) is of alternate bands of black and white marbles, with 16 Corinthian columns, sumptuous chapels, rare paintings, many statues, and the Holy Grail. Near by, on Piazza Nuova, see white- marble town-hall, with statues (once Ducal Palace) ; and 16th-century Jesuits' ch. of S. Ambrogio, with pic- tures by Guido and Rubens. Near by are 8. Matteo (1278), with many sculptures and inscriptions of Doria family ; Academy of Fine Arts, with pictures and statu- ary ; 12th-century Gothic ch. of S. Stefano, with famous picture by Giulio Romano ; and Pallavicini and Spinola Palaces. The modern Via Balbi and Via Nuova are streets of superb palaces, many of which have beautiful courtyards and staircases. Of these, notice 16th-cen- tury Municipio, with mosaic portraits of Columbus and Marco Polo (and letters of former) in council hall; Brignole-Sale, with 8 rooms full of old paintings (fee, 1 1.) ; Adorno (1500), with valuable pictures. Most of the Genoese palaces were built by (or in manner of) Alessi, a pupil of Michael Angelo. The cruciform Capuchin ch. of SS. Annunziata (1587), with fluted red^ marble columns and frescoed dome, is very rich. Hence the Via Balbi, a broad modern street of palaces, leads to rly. stat., passing handsome old Palazzo Durazzo ; University (1622), with museums, library (60,000 vols.), and the finest courtyard and staircase in Genoa ; Pa^ lazzo Balbi, with large picture-gallery (fee, 11.); Palazzo Durazzo and Royal Palace (open daily), with richly furnished halls, throne-room, and many pictures. SAVONA. — SAN EEMO. 39.* tn square by rly. stat., see fine monument to Columbus (1852), with several allegorical statues and reliefs. Beyond is Palace of Doria Princes, presented to An- drea Doria, "The Father of his Country," in 1522, with splendidly frescoed halls, gardens, arcades, and statues. Excursions from Genoa. — Villa Pallavicini (get permission at Durazzo Palace ; open 2-3 p.m. ; fee, 1-21.), with luxuriant park and gardens, magnificent views, grottos, kiosques, fountains, etc. (at Pegli stat, 7| M. ; \ hr. by rly. ; fares, 1 1. 15 c, 80 c). Campo Santo, \\ M. out, new and interesting. The famousCornicheroad leads along the Riviera di Ponente from Genoa to Nice (128 \ M.), through some of the finest coast and hill scenery in the world. Steamboats from Genoa to Nice, in 8-9 hrs., nearly every day. Rly. from Genoa to Nice in 7-9 hrs. (116 M. ; fares, 211. 5 c, 141. 90 c, 101. 65 c), by slow and not very comfortable trains. The journey should be by day, as the route follows the Mediterranean coast through a succession of beautiful and historic towns and villages. Take seat on r. as far as Savona ; beyond which the best views are on the 1. The line traverses many tun- nels, through rocky promontories. Savona {Pension Suisse ; Italia ; Roma) is an ancient city (40,000 inhab.), whose fine harbor Genoa caused to be filled up, after conquering the town. Sixtus IV. and Julius II. were born here See Cathe- dral (1604) ; 8. Domenico, with triptych by Diirer » colossal statue of Virgin on tower by harbor. Rly„ hence to Turin. San Remo (Royal; West-End ; Midi; Paradis ; Savoy; d' 'Europe; Bellevue; de la Mediterranee; Victo- ria; Central; de Londres; de Paris; de Nice), town of 896 BORDIGHERA. 20,000 ixihab., on hill-slopes covered with vineyards and groves of orange, lemon, olive, pommegranate and palm trees. The climate is very mild, and at- tracts many English, American, German and Russian families in winter. The town is a densely populated group of fortress-like mediaeval houses, with pictur- esque labyrinths of deep and narrow lanes. See very ancient Cathedral; lovely view from Assump- tion ch.; ruined Borea Palace ; and hermitage of jS. Romolo. Bordighera. {Hotel cf Angleterre; Royal; Angst; Windsor; da Cap Ampeglio; Park; Victoria; Hes- peria) has a beautiful site, on a hill of palm- trees, projecting into the sea, with picturesque streets and houses. It was once the capital of a republic. Euffini laid the scene of his Br. Antonio hereabouts. Climate is exceptionally soft in winter, with bracing quality, and is delightful in spring and fall. Many Americans come here. See Villa of Gamier, archi- tect of Paris Opera-House ; and palm-garden of Moreno. Vintimiglia {liaison Boree; Suisse) is the frontier-town, where baggage is examined and travel- lers change cars. Be sure that your baggage is put back on train. MENTONE. - MONACO. 397 SOUTHERN FRANCE. rientone, Nice, Cannes, Marseilles. MENTONE (Royal and Westminster; Victoria; National; de Malte; Winter Palace; Venise; Isles Brittaniques; Balmoral; d' Orient; de Russie; du Louvre; des Anglais; Riviera Palace; Cap Marline; Beau Rivage). The old town keeps Jts feudal aspect, with narrow and winding streets, on a promontory dividing the bay. The new town is on a long street, parallel with the hill. See grand view from ruins of Castle (1402) ; St. Julian Gate ; Palazzo; and Pubhc Garden. Climate more equable than at Nice or Cannes, and very tonic ; and availed of b} 7 very many people w r ith lung or bronchial troubles. Beautiful excursions in vicinity. Cor- niche road hence to Nice (18f M. ; 3-4 hrs.) through most exquisite coast scenery. Near Monte Carlo stat. is famous Casino {Riviera Palace ; Balmoral Palace ; des Anglais ; Grand ; Metropole), with magnificent palace for con- certs, decorated theatre, very elaborate gardens, and Gaming Establishment. Great numbers of fashiona- bles here, from December to May. Monaco (Beau Sejour; de la Condamine; Nice), the capital of a Lilliputian principality, under French protection, stands on a bold rock nearly sur- rounded by the sea. The ancient Palace of the Princes (open daily; small fee) has sumptuous rooms and good frescos. Bathing establishments at foot of rock, and new hotels. Pleasant promenades, mild winter cli- mate, and sea bathing in summer. Between Monaco 398 NICE. - CANNES. and Nice is Villafranca, winter headquarters of American navy in European waters. Nice {Grand Hotel des lies Britannigues ; Beau Sejour; de Nice ; des Anglais ; Grande Bretagne ; Riviera Palace; Imperial; Terminus; Alhambra; Regina ; Pare Hotel), a handsome and well built city (135,000 inhab.), with an Italian aspect, is the chiel of tiie fashionable winter-resorts on the Mediter- ranean coast, and lias an extremely soft and agreeable climate, and lovely environs. England and Germany, Russia and America, send many invalids here. The brilliant winters are succeeded by very dull summers. It was originally a Greek colony ; then Provencal, Savoyard, Sardinian, and French. Massena was born in house No. 21 Q.uai St. Jean Baptiste ; Garibaldi, at No. 4 Rue Cassini. Paganini died at No. 14 Rue de la Prefecture ; Halevy, at No. 5 Rue de France. The world-renowned Promenade des Anglais extends along the bay for 1| M., bordered hy beautiful villas and public establishments. See Place Massena, with bronze statue of Massena ; Jardin Publique, with palm groves and good band-music ; Place des Pliociens, and antique Greek fountain ; remains of Castle, on hill of palm and orange groves, with magnificent view over sea and rhts.; old and new Hotels de Ville ; Palace oj Prefecture; ancient Lascaris Palace ; Natural-History Museum ; Public, Library ; and Marble Cross. Many charming excursions to Villafranca, Montboron, Cht> teau Neuf St. Pons, Cimies, etc. (consult hotel-porters, most of whom speak English). It is 6 hrs. hence, by express (26 fr. 70 c, 20 fr. 75 c, 15fr.20c), to Marseilles. A series of tramway lines are now in operation on the coast in the neighborhood of Nice and Monte Carlo. Cannes {Hotel Splendide, in the town; Gallia, Beau Sejour, m E. quarter; des Princes, du Pare, TOULON.— MARSEILLES. 399 in W. quarter ;. Continental, on the hills ; Gonnet, Gray and Albion ^ in S. quarter ; Grande-Bre- tagne, at Le Cannet) is one of the most popular and attractive Mediterranean winter resorts, sheltered from the winds, and frequented by people whose lungs are delicate. The English and Russians monopolize it, and the latter have many handsome villas in vicinity. Magnificent sea views, including the lies de Levins, where, on lie S. Marguerite, the Man with the Iron Mask was imprisoned (1687-98), and Marshal Bazaine escaped (1874). On lie S. Honorat, ruins of one of the most famous mediaeval monasteries. Near Cannes is Antibes, a very picturesque old coast town, sur- rounded by walls and defended by a fort; and Golfe Jouan, where Napoleon landed from Elba. The Marseilles rly. goes on to Frejus, with ruins of Roman theatre, amphitheatre, Gilded Grate, and aque- duct (25 M. long). From La Pauline stat. branch rly. to Hyeres, a favorite health resort in winter, with picturesque rocky islets off-shore and lofty mts. behind. Toulon {Grand Hotel; Victoria; De la \Paix; Du Nord) is the chief French naval station (77,000 inhab.) on the Mediterranean, on a deep double harbor, sheltered by Cape Sepet and defended by 11 forts. It beat off an Austrian and Italian army in 1707 ; but Bonaparte wrested it from an English garrison in 1793. See Arsenal-gate, with statues; Maritime Museum ; Puget's statuo of Renown ; prison, founded by Colbert in 1682, now depot of prisoners sentenced to transportation; Hotel de Ville, with sculptures, and in front a statuo of Genius of Navi- gation; ancient Cathedral, with sculptures by Canova, Mignard, and Puget, and noble view from. Batterie du Salut. It is 41 \ M. hence to Marseilles {Hotel de Noailles; des Negociants; du Louvre et de la Paix' Terminus), the foremost mari- time city (503,000 inhab.) of France, which has a long and narrow inner iiarbor^with large modern docks out- 400 MARSEILLES. — CHATEAU D'IF. side. It was founded by Greeks or Phoenicians, e.g. 600, under the name of Massilia ; defeated the Carthagin- ians ; established many colonies along the coast ; was conquered by Caesar, Visigoths, Franks, Saracens, and Spaniards ; and in 1481 was annexed to France. Here were born Thiers, Gozlain, Puget, and Mery. The Marseillaise call their La Cannebiere the finest street in the world. This line of streets runs N. W. from the ancient harbor, by the handsome Bourse, with statues of eminent pre-Christian Massilian (Greek) navigators; the Place Roy ale ; across the shady Cours de VAthenee (statue of intrepid Bishop Belsunce), which leads to Triumphal Arch, with sculptures of Napoleon's victories, and to rly. stat. ; across Cours St. Louis, which runs under various names 2-| M. to the N. E. ; and out to Zoological Garden, near which is the handsome Long- champs Museum (open, 10-4), where an Ionic colon- nade joins the Natural-History Museum to the Picture- Gallery. See immense Docks ; Canal, which cost $12,000,000; Ch. of Notre Dame de la Garde, on steep and far- view, ing hill; splendid new Byzantine Cathedral ; old Ca- thedral, on ruins of Temple of Diana ; palatial Hotel de la Prefecture; Palais de Justice; Transport B'ge. In suburbs, visit noble Comiche road. The Chateau dTf, built by Francis I. on an island in the harbor, was made famous by Dnmas's Monte Cristo. Steamships of Messageries Maritimes, Valery Frferes, Fraissinet & Co., and other lines, make Marseilles their chief port, and run to Messina, Athens, Constantinople ; to Syra, Smyrna, Constantinople, Odessa,— returning by Athens & Naples ; to Salonica ; to Naples & Alexandria ; to Port Said, Jaffo, Beyrout, and Syrian coast ; to Trebi- zond ; to Madras and Calcutta ; to Suez, Aden, Singapore, Hong-Kong, Shanghai, Yokohama (fortnightly.! ; to Al- ARLES. — NIMES. 401 ; giers ; to Barcelona ; to Nice, Genoa, Leghorn, Civit& ! Vecchia, and Naples ; and occasionally to New York. From Marseilles the tourist may readily enter Spain by way of Barcelona (see page 405.). Aries, Nimes, Avignon, and Lvons. Ely. from Marseilles to Paris in 16-18 hrs. (fares, 106 fr. 35 c, 79 f". 80 c). Train leaving at 8.30 A.M. is due at Paris at 11.19 p.m. The route leads through vineyards and olive-groves, among which are ancient villages, to Aries {Grand Hotel du Forum ; Du Nord), a venerable Roman town (26,000 inhab.) near the Gamargue, or delta of the Rhone. The Roman Amphitheatre (b.c. 43) is 1,500 ft. around, with seats for 25,000 spectators, fine arcades, and dens for wild beasts. It has been a fortress of the Goths, Saracens, and Franks, some of whose towers are still standing. The remains of the Roman Theatre are very interesting. See also famous Roman cemetery of Champs Mysees (mentioned by Dante) ; columns in Place du Forum; ruins of Thermae, and of Constant tine's. Palace ; Roman Obelisk of Alpine granite, set up here in 1676 ; Museum (in old ch. of S. Anna) of Roman statues and antiquities ; 7th-century Cathedral, with fine portal and interesting cloisters ; viaduct with 32 arches; and (2\ M. N. E.) imposing ruins of for- tress-abbey of Montmajour, on a high rock. The women of Aries are celebrated for beauty. Fares, Marseilles to Aries, 10 fr. 60 c, 7 jr. 90 c, 5 fr. SO c From Aries, via Tarascon, to Nimes, 4 fr. 85 c, 3fr. 60 c, 2fr. 60 c Nimes (Hotel du Luxembourg ; Du Midi) the birth- place of Guizot and Nicot (whence nicotine), has 80,000 inhab. It was once a sacred spot in a Druidical 402 TARASCON. — AVION ON. forest ; conquered by Rome, B.C. 121 ; and at time of Reformation, scene of fierce religious wars. No other French town has such noble Roman remains. The well-preserved Amphitheatre (b.c. 140) has 35 rows of seats and 121 exits, and is 1,300 ft. around and 74 ft. high. It was made a fortress by Visigoths and Sara- cens ; and afterwards contained a large village. The Maison Carree is a Roman temple, 88 X 42 ft. in area, with 30 exquisite Corinthian columns. Founded prob- ably by the Antonines, it became afterwards a ch., and then a town-hall ; and is now a Museum, with antique mosaics and sculptures, and several score of modern paintings. The Capitol at Richmond, Ya., was mod- elled on plan of Maison Carree. See also ancient Tem~ pie of Diana (or Nymphceuni), and Roman Baths, below the huge and far-viewing Tourmagne, on Mount Cava- lier, adorned with promenades ; 2 of the Roman town- gates ; Fountain.; and Boulevards. Tarascon (Hotel des Empereurs ; Du Petit Loitrre)> the city of the troubadours, and of King Rene of Anjou (13,500 inhab.), has notable Castle, Ch. of S. Mart he, Chapel of St. Gabriel, and Hue des Arcades. Avignon (Hotel de V Europe) is a handsome city (38,000 inhab.) on the Rhone, with an imposing and well-preserved wall (1349-68) of huge masonry, and many gates. On the Rocher des Dons, 300 ft. high, stands the 14th-century Cathedral, with tombs of 2 popes ; La Glaciere, an ancient square prison-tower of the Inquisition, where many martyrs have died; the Papal Palace (now a barrack), a huge and fortress-like pile, 100 ft. high, with frowning towers and a chapel frescoed by Memmi (about 1330) ; the old Papal Mint, etc. Splendid view of Rhone and city from adjacent public gardens. The golden age of Avignon was dur- ing 1305-77, when 7 popes dwelt there, with all the VAUCLUSE. — VIENNE. 403 Pontifical court. In 1351 Petrarch was a guest in the Palace, and Rienzi lay bound in its dungeons. At foot of Rocher des Dons is the Grande Place, with • hand- some Theatre and Hotel de Ville. See also Calvet Museum (1 fr.), with Roman antiquities, library, and picture-gallery ; Bridge, of which but 4 arches remain ; Monument to Petrarch's Laura; 17th-century Hotel Crillon; and Ch. of Grands Carmes. Vaucluse is 12 M. distant by rly. to Vlle-sur- Sorgues, whence 4 M. by road. Here is the fountain of which Petrarch sang. The Pont du Gard, W. of Avignon, is one of the grandest Roman works in existence. It is an aqueduct of 3 lines of arches, over the desolate Gard Valley, built probably by Agrippa. Beyond Avignon the Paris rly. passes Orange {Hotel de la Poste et des Princes), a Roman colony, and afterwards capital of principality (until 1702), with large Roman Theatre (20,000 sittings) and Triumphal Arch. Near Pierrelatte are many Roman remains. Montelimart has famous mineral springs. Livron is famous for its defence by the Huguenots against Henri III. in 1574. Valence {Hotel de la Croix) is a picturesque town (20,000 inhab.), with Roman ruins ; Cathedral with tomb of Pius VI. ; Museum; and Maison des Tetes. Vienne {Hotel du Nord; De la Poste), "a little French Manchester" (25,000 inhab.), on the Rhone, has Roman Temple of Augustus, with 16 Corinthian columns; 6th-century basilica of S. Pierre; venerable Cathedral, etc. Lyons {Grand Hotel; de Rome; des Beaux-Arts; Bellecour; Terminus; Etrangers), the second city and chief manufacturing place of France (400,000 inh.), is at the confluence of the Rhone and Saone, and is of vast importance, commercially and strategically. The Perrache is the quarter between and reclaimed 404 LYONS. from tlie 2 rivers ; and containing handsome rly. stat., Arsenal, Barracks, Custom House, and Ch. of St. Blandine. See 13th-century Cathedral, with facade by Philibert Delorme, and noble tower; Museum (open 9-3), with Roman antiquities and statues, library, and large picture-gallery (see Perugino's Ascension) ; Grand Theatre ; noble view from pilgrimage-cti. of Notre Dame de Fourviere, on heights ; Hotel de Ville (1647), near scene of massacres of 1794 ; Civic Library, 180,000 vols. ; Palace of Commerce, with industrial museum ; Hotel Dieu ; great tobacco-factories ; new Bellecour Theatre; 10th-century ch. of Abbey of Ainay, on site of Caligula's school of rhetoric; handsome Tete a" Or park; Ch. of S. Jean, of 12th century; and Place Bellecour. There are 16 bridges over the rivers; and the adjacent heights are covered with great forts. Rly. from Lyons to Geneva, 4^ hrs. (fares, 20 fr. 65 c, 15^ fr., 11 fr. 35c); and to Besancon (fares, 29 fr. 20 c, 21 fr. 85 c, 16 fr. 5 c). Besancon {Hotel de Paris) is one of the strongest fortresses in Prance (48,000 inhab.), with noble Cathedral, Archiepiscopal Palace, Granvelle Palace (1 '34), Roman Arch, and Library (120,000 vols.). Express trains, Lyons to Paris. 9-10 hrs., by Macon, Chalons-sur-Saone, Dijon, etc Montpellier, Cette, and Perpign^n, see pages 405-6. Biarritz and Bayonne, see page 433. Pan, Cauterets, Bordeaux, Arcachon, Angouleme, Poi* tiers , Toulouse, Vichy, etc., see pages 436 et seq. SPAIN. 405 A ROUND TRIP IN SPAIN. THE tourist who can give ten days for a visit to the most important points in Spain will never have occasion to regret it. He will find it among the most interesting and instructive of his journeys in Europe. From Marseilles we recommend you to go directly to Barcelona, from there to Valencia, and thence via La Encina to the Alcazar de San Juan. From this point you may go S. to Seville and Cordova, from Cordova to Grenada, from Grenada to Malaga, all this by rail : then from Malaga by steamer to Gibraltar ; from Gib- raltar to Cadiz, from Cadiz to Seville, from Seville to the Alcazar de San Juan : from thence to Madrid, taking on the way the ancient city of Toledo ; and from Madrid N. to France by Avila, Valladolid, Burgos, and Irun : thence to Bordeaux and Paris. That does not include several points of interest, such as for instance Saragossa, Alicante, Salamanca, etc. ; but it gives a capital idea of the chief beauties of Spain. Even to those who feel that they cannot spend the time to go S. to Seville, Grenada, Malaga, and Gibraltar, we would recommend to try the route to Barcelona, Valencia, Toledo, and N., being satisfied with half of Spain if they cannot see the whole. As for the journey to Portugal and especially to Lisbon we shall simply point out the route, as most vacation tourists will find it too lengthy. Between Marseilles and Barcelona you pass through Montpellier (Hotel Neoet ; Bu Midi ; Delmas ; Grand) Here is a Cathedral founded in 1364 by "Ur- ban V. ; a school of medicine with fine entrance flanked with a colossal bronze statue representing Barthez and 406 GERONA. — BARCELONA. La Peyronnic ; a library of 50,000 vols., a good mu- seum (open Sun., Mon., and fete days, 11-3) ; a public library, 60,000 vols. ; and many beautiful fountains, statues, gardens, and promenades : — Cette, one of the most industrious and dirtiest cities of Southern France, noted for its exports of wine, for its museum of natural history, and its botanical garden : — Narbonne, and Perpignan, an old French town with a Spanish aspect. The Spanish frontier is reached at Cerbere, in the midst of a wildly beautiful country ; baggage inspection not severe. The only point of special importance through which you pass on your way to Barcelona is Gerona {Fonda Italiana), a large town divided into two sections, upper and lower, by the river Oha. Noble view here of the Pyrenees and the distant mountains. The porch of the Cathedral is reached by a monumental staircase of 86 steps. The interior forms one single nave, nearly 200 ft. long, sustained by immense pillars, formed of little columns almost detached from each other. Many interesting tombs here. The chief altar is one of the richest in Spain. The Bishop's Palace is very fine. Churches of San Pedro de los Oalligans and San Feliu are worth seeing. The Capucin Con- vent contains a small Arabic monument of wonderful intricate workmanship. From Gerona it is 65 M. to Barcelona (Grand Hotel; Inglaterra; Falcon y Central; del Oriente; Continental; Peninsular)^ one of the most enterprising as well as one of the most beautiful cities (500,000 inh.) in Southern Europe. Its appearance quite contradicts any impressions that one may have of the slovenliness and lack of energy of the modern Spaniards, impressions, alas ! confirmed later on by the aspect of more southward towns. Barcelona is the residence of a Captain General and of the civil governor of the province of Catalonia. The climate is Z Longitude. "West Q longitude East SPAIN. 407 temperate both in summer and winter. The new part of the city, notably in the Gracia quarter, wiii remind Americans of the more beautiful sections of Boston and of Washington. The Rambla is the principal promenade of the city, and at noon and in the evening is thronged with all classes of the population. It runs from the Plaza de la Paz (Columbus Monument) to the Plaza de Cataluna, and from here stretches out the beautiful Gracia avenue, which unites the city to a suburb of the same name. The University with its 150,000 volumes is on the Plaza de la Universidad, a short distance N.W. from the Cataluna Plaza. Among other squares are the Real, with interest- ing shops ; the Medina Celi, with statue of Marquet ; del Rey, with the Provincial Museum and Palace of the Archives; de la Constitution, with the Casa Consistorial and the Casa de la Diputacion ; de Palacio, with fine marble fountain. From the latter a short avenue leads to the Parque de la Ciudadela, in which are the Palace, the Pantheon, and an unimportant Museode Reproducciones. The Lyceo, said to be the largest theatre in the world, is built after the model of La Scala, at Milan. The Lonja, or Exchange, is of monumental aspect. The Casa de la Diputacion, on the Palace of the Constitution, was built in the 16th century ; fine portal. On the side fronting on the Calle del Obispo is the exquisite fagade of the chapel of St. George, Gothic in style. The Hall of the Diputacion has many fine paintings ; among others a number of the best works of Fortuny. Opposite is the Casa Consistorial, a Gothic edifice (1378). The patio, or courtyard, is much admired. The Custom House, Casa Aduana, is near the old royal palace. The Archives of the Crown of Aragon in the Plaza del Rey is a superb historical collection dating back for ten centuries. 408 BARCELONA. The Cathedral dates from the first centuries of the Church. It is dedicated to S. Eulalia. The first building was erected by Raymond Ber»nguer I. in 1058, but only part of that remains. The interior has three vast naves, ogival in style. The chief altar is in a sort of temple, supported by sculp- tured columns : at the top is a Christ upon the Cross. Beneath the ch. is a crypt, with a chapel in which are said to repose the remains of S. Eulalia : beautiful stained glass windows here. The side door on the r, leads into the cloister, which is marvellously decorated in the style of the 15th century. Notice the ironwork on the doors of the chapels : also the tomb of the dwarf buffoon of King Alfonso V. of Aragon. There are numerous other chs. of interest. Among the most strik- ing is S. Maria del Mar, a fine Gothic edifice. The Provincial Museum contains some good paintings by Villodomat, some by the Caracci, and works of Eibera and other masters. The Miiseo Arqueologico, in the ch. of Santa Agneda, is interesting. The Museo JSstruch contains an interesting collection of weapons. On an isolated hill stands the Castle of Montjuich, which can contain a garrison of about 10,000. Barcelonetta is a little suburb chiefly inhabited by fishermen and workmen in the marine establishments. Gracia is a favorite residence of the wealthier people of Barcelona. An excursion should be made to the immense rocky mass of Monserrat, which rises in the midst of the Catalonian plain, to the height of about 3,500 ft. above the level of the sea, at a distance of 31 M. from Barce- lona. It may be reached from the stat. of Martorell, on the Tarragona line, or much more easily from Mo* nistrol,o\\ the Saragossa rv.,from which a carriage rd. and mt. ry. lead to the Monastery on summit of the int. Of the old monastery founded in 880 nothing is left but a few walls and one or two towers in Byzantine SPAIN. 409 style, dating from the 15 th century. ' The present mon- astery is composed of immense buildings, 8 stories high, "without special character. The ch. is beautified with a portico, rich with statues and columns. The renown of the Virgin of Monserrat is too well known to need mention here. From the top of the rat. there is a splendid view of immense extent over the hills of Ar- agon, the Pyrenees, the Mediterranean shore, and in very clear weather as far as the Balearic Islands. There are several grottos filled with stalactites in the Mon- serrat mass. The Balearic Islands. — There is regular com- munication between Barcelona and Palma, the capital of the old Kingdom of Majorca, and the chief town of the province which to-day bears the name of Bale- ares, and which comprises the islands of Majorca, Minorca, Ivica, and several others. Palma is a pretty town with narrow streets, in the midst of a delight- ful country. There are a few fine buildings in it. See Lonja, or old Exchange, begun in 1426, finished 22 years later : the Citadel, built at the close of the 16th century : the Palace of the Captain General : the Cathe- dral, founded 1230, finished 1601. Majorca pretends to be the cradle of the Bonaparte family, because an ancestor of that house, Hugo Bonaparte, a native of Majorca, went in 1411 to Corsica as governor in the name of King Martin, when that island belonged to the Crown of Aragon : — In the Island of Minorca, Port Mahon is the principal town, much frequented by navi- gators of all nations. The English were there for a long time, and quitted the island only in 1782. Erom Barcelona those who have time may find it interesting to visit Saragossa. 410 SARAGOSSA. Saragossa (Fonda de Europa ; Las Cuatro JYaciones) ; existed in the time of the Romans. Augustus Csesar founded a military colony there, to which he gave the name of Ceesarea Augusta, whence the contraction Saragossa. The ry. stats, are some dis- tance outside the town, which has a population of 92,000, and is situated on the 1. bank of the Ebro. It is renowned for its obstinate resistance to the army of Napoleon during the memorable siege of 1808, and still shows marks of bullets on its walls. The Gate ofNues- tra Senora del Carmen is a noble memorial of the siege. From the stone bridge which unites the town with the suburb of Altabas there is a hue view of the city and the Ch. of Our Lady del Pilar. This is the object of fervent devotion on the part of Spanish Catholics. According to tradition a chapel was built here about the year 40 of the Christian era by the orders of the Yir- gm herself, who brought to it the pillar and the statue so much venerated to-day. Even when the mauso- leums were injured at Saragossa, this chapel and the pillar were preserved. The first stone of the present ch. Was laid in 1681. The interior is rather naked and cold. There are, however, some beautiful marble columns upholding the sculptured vault. In the Sacristy is a fine Ecce Homo attributed to Titian. The Ch. of San Salvador, or the Seo, that is, the Epis- copal seat, is considered, however, as more important than the first mentioned one. It is sumptuously orna- mented, and the mysterious twilight in the 5 naves has an impressive effect. Beautiful sculptures here repre- senting the history of the Saviour, of the adoration of the Magi, the Ascension, etc. ; also several fine tombs. The Trascoro is the work of the celebrated sculptor Tudeiilla, and the chapels are very rich. The subter- ranean ch. of Santa Lngracia, where repose the SPAIN. 411 remains of many Christian martyrs, who were slain by »he soldiers of Diocletian, is interesting. The ch. was nearly destroyed by an explosion in 1808. The other chs. are too numerous to mention. The Casa Muni- cipal, the Exchange, with its vast rectangular hall, formed by 24 beautiful columns in four rows ; the Ch. of San Pablo ; the Aljaferia, which was a pal- ace of pleasure for the Arab kings ; the Bull Ring ; a great number of beautiful private residences ; the University, which has a library of 25,000 vols. ; some convents and hospitals; and the suburb of Santa Engracia, may ail be readily seen in the course of half a day. Erom the little hills in the neighborhood there are very pretty views. Ou tf 3 way from Barcelona to Saragossa you pass through Lerida (Fonda Suiza; JJe Espana). Erom here there is rail to Tarragona. The old Cathedral is a magnificent mass of Byzantine Gothic remains, mixed with various Arabic styles ; picturesque and rich cloister. The new Cathedral, built under Charles III., is a fine Corinthian edifice with 3 naves, surrounded with a great number of chapels and many fine altars. The excursion to Saragossa is rather out of the limits which we had assigned for a brief journey through Spain. We recommend the tourist to go through Tarragona along the coast to Valencia. You leave Barcelona very early in the morning and reach Valencia about 8 or 9 in the evening. Take your provisions with you from the hotel. The journey affords a fine series of contrasted views of Spanish scenery. After leaving Tarragona you pass through remarkably wild scenery along the base of rocky mts„, 412 TARRAGONA. — VALENCIA. and then descend into the delicious landscape in tike. neighborhood of Valencia, filled with groves of oranges and lemons, and with a great variety of semi- tropical shrubs. Tarragona (Paris; PJuropa; del Castro) is a very old town of about 30,000 inhab., once the centre of the Roman power in Spain. Not far away are the sites of some of Hannibal's battles. The Paseo de Santa Clara is built over the remains of the Roman walls. Very ancient gates here. Some of the modern residences are built with the debris of temples and of Roman palaces. The Place of the Constitution is on the site of an old Roman circus. The Cathedral is Gothic in style ; interior vast, aspect majestic, ornaments sober but heavy, pillars shrouded in old Italian tapestries, many marble tombs and statues ; beautiful cloisters. In a chapel are the remains of Don Jaime I OJ King of Ara- gon, and his wife. Old Aqueduct here. The next place of importance is Tortosa, a strongly fortified city on the 1. bank of the Ebro (25,000 inhab.). Imposing fortifications. Cathedral of little importance. Shortly before reaching Valencia you pass Murviedro, near which are the ruins of the celebrated and ancient city of Saguntum. If you go to these ruins, visit them at midday. The population is not aggressive, but there have been brigands in the neighborhood. Valencia (Hotel de Paris ; Cuatro JSTaciones : Espana; Oriente; Roma) is the chief town (170,000 inhab.) of the province of the same name, the residence of a captain general and of the archbishop. It is beautifully situated in the midst of a great number of groves and gardens. About 2| M. distant is its port, sailed El Grao, which is accessible for large steam- ships. Valencia may be seen in shcrt time. The first impression of it is not imposing, but the beauties of its SPAIN. 413 natural situation and its architecture grow upon one. The principal squares are those of the Constitution, where is the city hall ; that of S. Francisco; that of S. Domingo, a market-place, which is well worth spending an hour or two in when the peasantry from the neigh- boring mts. are there ; the celebrated Excha?ige aud the Silk Hall. The Audiencia is a fine building of the 16th century. The principal halls are ornamented with good portraits. The Archiepiscopal Palace is con- nected with the Cathedral by a bridge. The Cathedral dates from 1262. The largest tower is called El Migue- lete, from the name of the big bell which was baptized in the name of S. Michael. From the platform o<* the tower, splendid view of the sea and the coast. The interior is formed of 3 vaulted naves supported by square pillars with Corinthian capitals. High mass in this ch. is a splendid spectacle. Visit the Sola Capitu- lar, immense quantity of relics, ornaments, archives, books, and MSS. The Ch. of S. Catalina has an old mosaic. Its tower is beautiful. In the Ch. of S. Juan del Hospital is the tomb of one of the empresses of Constantinople. The old home of the Jesuits is occu- pied by the civil government. Very fine hospitals here. The University buildings are not remarkable. In the Church of Corpus Christi is a beautiful Cena by Ribalta. An invisible mechanism winds up this canvas aud opens 4 great curtains showing a superb crucifix, which is much venerated by the Valencians. The Provincial Museum is in the old convent del Carmen (9-4); it contains numerous old pictures, though few of great merit. The Theatre is large, but without character. The Bull Ring is immense. The principal promenades are the Alameda, the Botanical Garden and the Glorieta. Pretty walks by the banks of the river. In the tobacco-factory, 4:14 ALICANTE. — ALBACETE. 3500 women are occupied. The Valencian women are renowned for their beauty. Eroin Yalencia vol may go to Alicante via La Enema. Alicante {Fonda de Bossio) is a fine seaport (40,000 inhab.). The town has no remarkable architectural features. The streets are large and well paved. The Alameda de la Reina is pretty. The City Hall, flanked with 4 towers, is quite imposing. Neither of the 2 ehs. is worth much study. The Convent of S. Clara, or of the Holy Eace, as it is called, possesses a much venerated relic, the handkerchief with which S. Vero- nica wiped the sweat from the brows of the Saviour. The Citadel of S. Barbara is supposed to be impreg- nable. You may also go to Alicante by Alcoy and Jativa. This last mentioned town is beautifully situ- ated on a mt. -chain, overlooking a magnificently culti- vated plain. On the flanks of the hills are the walls of an old fortress. A French writer says that the rly. here seems to be the alley through a region of gardens. Returning from Alicante to La Encina you may take ticket to the Alcazar de S. Juan, or directly to Madrid. On the way you pass Albacete {Fonda Francisquillo), renowned for its manufacture of knives. Specimens of the merchandise are always offered by pedlers to passengers on the trains. The Alcazar de S. Juan is where the lines to Andalusia and to Portugal branch off from the main line from Madrid to Valencia. It is an old town which the Order of the Knights of St. Juan made its head- quarters. Decent refreshment-room here. Attend carefully to your baggage. From the Alcazar de S. Juan to Cordova the journey is one of the most inter- esting in Spain, and descends into Andalusia. At Man" zanares the line to Ciudad Real and Portugal branches off. You pass through Val de Penas, whence you get SPAIN. 415 a good view uf the Sierra Morena. Between the Alca- zar and the Val de Penas lies much of the country described in Bon Quixote. Many interesting points on the line. Notice Almuradiel, and Filches, near which is the great plain where in 1212 a Christian army defeated the great Mussulman hordes under the com- mand of Mahomed al Nassr. At Mengibar there is a fine bridge over the Guadalquivir. At Andujar there is little of importance to be seen except the large ch. in what is known as the Plateresque style of architecture. Cordova ( Fonda Espafwlaj Suizaj Fonda de Oriente) is -an old town of 55,000 iiihab., situated in a delicious plain on the r. bank ol the Guadalquivir, in full view of the slopes of the Sierra Morena. Cordova has a sumptu- ous museum of antiquities : a great collection of edifices of all epochs ; and is divided into two parts by one long street, the Calle de la Feria, the principal artery for the commerce of the city. The walls which still surround it are flanked with towers, octagonal, cylindrical, or square, which were the work of successive generations of Saracen and Christian architects. The Plaza de la Con- stitution is surrounded by fine buildings. The old stone bridge over the stream is attributed to Octavius Au- gustus. The principal objects of interest are the Old Alcazar, and the garden of the Moorish kings, adjacent to it. For permission to enter address the porter. The New Alcazar is to-day a prison. The Episcopal Falace is built of very rich materials, but not in remarkably good taste : fine gardens and good li- brary. Curious collection of portraits of all the bishops of Cordova. Near this palace is the Triunfo, a hand- some marble monument, surmounted with a column which bears a gilded bronze statue of St. Raphael. A great number of the houses in the city are ornamented with inscriptions in honor of emperors, consuls, magis- 416 CORDOVA. trates, etc. The modern Bull Ring is near the rly. station. The Mosque, now the Cathedral, is certainly one of the most remarkable edifices in the world. It was founded in 786 by Abdurrahman I., and com- pleted finally in 990. The exterior is rather gloomy; the courtyard within, remarkably beautiful. It has colonnades on 3 sides, with fountains in the centre ; and is planted with orange and cypress trees. The interior of the Cathedral has been somewhat aptly described as a £ ' marble grove." The roof is sup- ported by a vast number of slender pillars, beau- tifully wrought with Corinthian- capitals and shafts of various colored marbles, of jasper, porphyry, etc. The principal entrance, called the Puerta del Perdon, opens into the beautiful Court of Oranges. The Milirab, or the Holy of Holies, is very curious. The Mosque was converted into a Cathedral on the 25th of June, 1236. In the Colegiata de San Hipolito are two urns containing the ashes of King Alphonso XI. and his father, Ferdinand IV. ; also the tomb of the celebrated chronicler, Ambrosio de Morales. The chs. of S. Pedro and of S. Marina are also worth seeing. The Convent of S. Pablo has beautiful cloisters and a magnificent staircase. Many other convents are rich in works of art. Just outside the town is the sanctuary of Our Lady of la Fuen Santa ; great public festival here on the 8th, 9th, and 10th of Sept. An excursion to the Ermitas in the Sierra Morena is worth while. From Cordova to Granada the distance is 153£ M. On the way you pass Montilla, which is one of the most beautiful places in Andalusia. Here the Great Captain, Gonzalvo de Cordova, was born. At Booadilla a branch line to the r. goes to Malaga (re- freshment room here). Antequera is an old fortress, said to have been built in Roman times. Notice SPAIN. 417 the colossal bronze angel on the cupola of the ch. of San Sebastian ; also the Arch of Hercules, a Roman ruin. Granada (Washington Irving, and Roma, near Alhambra ; Alameda, and Victoria, in the town), a city of 72,000 inhabitants, is world famous, and we shall only briefly indicate the best way to visit the Alhambra and the other curiosities of the town in a short time. Granada is grouped on the slopes of 3 hills. The Torres Bermejas, or Scarlet Towers, so called because of their color, are on the first and the last of these hills. The Alhambra, which is a city in itself, covers the second and the highest. The Albaycin is on the third, separated from the others by a deep ravine filled with rank vegetation. Through this ravine runs the torrent of the Darro. Granada itself is divided into 4 large sections. The modern city occupies the part of the valley between the hills of the Albaycin and the Alhambra. Notice the Plaza del Triunfo, at the end of which is the Bull Ring. On this Plaza is a white marble column, with statue of the Virgin. Here also are the Royal Hospital and the Concent of the Merced. On the Plaza Nueoa, reached by the Zacatin, is the fine edifice of the Audiencia. See the Ch. of Santa Ana, Here is a University, with rich library and a rather inferior collection of pictures. The Cathedral, to be seen from 8 a.m. to noon, and 3 to 5 p.m., has a fine front ornamented with statues and bas-reliefs. Interior has 5 naves, supported by 20 enormous pillars, formed of columns grouped together. The Door of the Pardon is very fine. The Camilla del Pilar is filled with beau- tiful marbles. See the group of " Charity " in the Sala Capitular, the work of Torrigiani, the Florentine artist, who was the rival of Michael Angelo. The Capilla Mayor is one of the most richly decorated in Spain. 41b GRANADA. — THE ALHAMBRA. The Royal Chapel was built to receive the remains of Perdinand and Isabella, and here are their tombs. The two royal statues lie on the sarcophagus : two lions repose at their feet. Here are the crown and sceptre of Isabella, and the sword of Ferdinand. In a second mausoleum near by are the remains of Queen Joanna, who was insane, and of Philip her husband. The tower of the Cathedral is unfinished. ' The Alhambra is open daily from 9 to 12 a.m. and 2 to 4 p m. Leaving the Plaza Nueva you scale the Cuesta de los Gomeres, At the top of this street you find the Puerta de las Granadas, a kind of triumphal arch built by Charles V., where formerly stood an an- cient Arabic gate. Beyond this lie the groves and the gardens which surround the Alhambra. We will simply enumerate the objects to be seen. The Pilar de Car- los V., ornamented with statues; the Puerta de Juicio f or Door of Judgmeiit ; the Plaza de los Algibes, or Place of the Cisterns ; the Puerta del Vino ; the Palace of Charles V., a fine Renaissance structure, but un- finished. The centre is occupied by a circular patio or court, surrounded by a vaulted gallery supported by 32 Doric columns in marble. The Alhambra, a marvellous Arabic palace, occupied a rectangle of 400 ft. long by 250 wide. It comprised 5 interior courts. The prin- cipal facade, which was to the N., was demolished to make room for the Palace of Charles V. Its main entrance opened on the Patio de los Arrayanes, and you can only enter it to-day through a small corridor behind the N. facade of the Imperial palaoe The Hall of the Ambassadors, the Tocador, and the Ifirador, or toilet rooms of the Queen, the Patio de la Ifezquita, the Hall of the Baths, the Patio de las Rejas, the Court of Lions, the most precious specimen oi Arabesque architecture in Spain, with 128 white SPAIN. 419 marble columns m the galleries surrounding it, with & floor of white marble, a noble fountain, and 14 great sculptured lions. The Halls of the Tribunal of the Dos Hermanas (the Two Sisters), and the Hall of the Abencerrages, should be carefully studied-, in the hall of the Two Sisters is the famous Alham- bra Vase, the finest known example of Hispano- Moresque faience. The Royal Chapel,vrh\ch is rarely open, contains a great variety of artistic treasures. From the platform of the Tower of the Vela there is an admirable view. Visit also the Adarves, a line of old bastions transformed into gardens, also the ch. of Santa Maria, the Towers of the Cautivas, of the Carceles, of Los Slete Stielos, del Agua, de las Infantas and many others, should be carefully inspected. To visit the Generalife you leave by the Los Picos Gate, and go down the hill by a route which crosses the ravme of Los Molinos, and which then climbs the foot of the hills of a neighboring mt. The Generalife was the pleasure houseV the Alliambra. But little remains of it except a few arcades and some beautiful arabesques. In one of the few halls which are still covered wlUi a roof, there is a series of smoky portraits of the Kings of Spain, which have only a chronological merit. "From the Tower of the Generalife," says a French writer, " you fancy that you can touch the Sierra Nevada, so pure and limpid 'is the air through which you see that moun- tain chain." There are a great many beautiful excur- sions in the neighborhood of the Alliambra, but to enjoy them one must remain in the vicinity at least a week. The gypsy encampments in the country-side are very interesting, 'but the prudent traveller will scarcely care to venture among them without a stout escort. From Granada the distauce to Malaga by rail is 119 M. Malaga (Roma, on the Alameda; Royal .Victoria,' Paris' Jnglaterra, second class, but good), with 135,000 420 MALAGA. — GIBRALTAR. inhab., may be easily seen in half a day. The exquisite climate and the beautiful situation of the town are its chief attractions. The Episcopal Palace, the City Hall, the new Custom House, the Theatre, which can contain 2,000 spectators, the vast Bull Ring, which holds 10,000, are not architecturally remarkable. The AU cazaba is an ancient fortress which antedates the Arabic occupation. The Atarazana is an old arsenal of the Moors. The Castle of Gibralfaro is on a hill to the E. of the city. The higtiest tower is an imposing mass sustained by 4 arches and nearly 100 it. high. Good view from this tower. The most beautiful prom- enade in this town is the Alameda : many pretty ioun.- tains and statues here. The Cathedral, which would be rich in any other country, is nor remarkable for Spain. All through this country grow wheat, oats, olives, all kinds of fruit : orange, lemon, and fig trees are abun- dant. Try and time your visit to Granada so as to connect with the steamer going to Gibraltar. Gibraltar {Royal; Bristol; Grand; Europa) is a city situated on a slope on the W. part of the famons rock and facing the bay. It has about 20,000 inhab. exclusive of the English garrison of 6,000 men. Main Street is the principal artery of the town. A narrow road connects the mainland with the rock, and this is guarded by batteries. From top to bottom the mi. is full of excavations, and out of every one looks the mouth of a cannon. At summit is an unfinished tower, called O'Hara's or St. George's. It was intended to be sufficiently high to enable the sentinels to overlook the Bay of Cadiz and see the movements there. In 1704 the English fleet, sustaining the rights of the Archduke Charles of Austria to the crown of Spain against Philip V. presented itself before Gibraltar, the fortifi- cations of which were then in ruins an^ occupied by a SPAIN. 421 garrison of 80 men. The town was taken, and although in the name of the archduke, England thought it proper to keep it. Various attempts to take it back were made in 1727, 1779, and 1782, but with- out success. The fortifications can be visited with special permission, which may be easily obtained at the hotels. There is also a good club to which strangers may be presented. Excursions may be made from Gibraltar to several interesting points on the African coast, notably Ceuta and Tangier. Opposite Gibraltar is the town of Algeciras (Hotel Reina Cristina), the occasional scene of international con- ferences. It is a typically Spanish town situated on a beautiful bay and commaading a fine view of the rock and fortifications of Gibraltar. Cadiz (Fonda de Paris; Fonda de Francia; Fonda ie Cadiz; de Furopa) is one of the most charming of Spanish towns (6i,00Q inhab ). It is on a peninsula, which extends into the ocean, and is generally consid- ered the most agreeable town in Andalusia. It is strongly fortified, and its position is well calculated for defenca. Notice the Fort of S. Catalina : also the Fort ofS. Sebastian. From the Torre de la Vigia, in the centre of the town, you get an admirable view of Cadia and its surroundings. Nearly all the houses are white, and their terraces and balconies are very picturesque. The Casas Consistoriales occupy fine buildings on the Plaza de Isabel Segunda. The Alameda is a fine promenade on one of the ramparts N. E. of the city. The Park Genoves is a fine pleasure ground with sea view. There are many colleges and seminaries, as well as an Academy of Fine Arts and numerous libraries. The new Cathedral, which is at the south end of the town, is not a very success- ful piece of architecture. A great profusion of marbles bi» ve been used in its decoration, but the gen- 422 CADIZ. — SEVILLE. eral effect is confused and disagreeable. The Treasury is rich in relics, jewels, etc. The old Cathedral has fallen into decay. In the chapel of the Convent of S. Catalina are some pictures by Murillo. Steam com- munication between Cadiz and Portugal, England, Hol- land, the Erench and German coasts, and Mexico, is very frequent. You may go from Cadiz to Seville by steamboat, on the Guadalquivir, in 8 nrs. ; fares, 15 p.; breakfast on board from 2 to 3 p. The journey is pretty, but most travellers will probably prefer the rail route, about 82f M. ; passing through Jerez de la Frontera, a pretty town, enriched by commerce in wine and other products of its generous soil. Here see curious monastery, museum, finely decorated city hall. About 2 M. S. E. of the town is a noted Carthusian monastery. Seville (Hotel de Madrid; de Paris; de Roma; Europa), with 143,000 inhabitants, requires a long visit. We will not attempt to describe it in detail, but will simply indicate the things to see. Seville has kept its ancient character pretty well. Most of its streets are narrow and crooked, and nearly all the houses have their patios, or inner courtyards, separated from the street by vestibules paved with white and black marble, and closed by doors of iron .gratings beautifully worked by skilful artisans. The Plaza S. Fernando is a vast square which in the morn- ing is inundated with sunlight, and is planted with orange-trees, and surrounded on three sides by hotels and boarding-houses, and on the fourth by the Palace of the Ayuntamiento. The Calle de Ge?iova, at the S. W. angle of the square, leads to the Cathedral. — This marvellous ch., with its famous tower of the Giralda, is a city in itself. Nowhere else in Europe is the splendor and majesty of the Catholic SPAIN. -±23 religion so well seen as here. The Giralda, a veritable marvel of Arab architecture, was the minaret of the old mosque of the Moorish Kings, who governed Seville after the destruction of the Khalifate. It was built dur- ing the 12th century by the Arab El Ghebir, who was the inventor of algebra. The tower is 350 ft. high. In 1568 it was capped with a belfry, which in its turn is surmounted by an enormous statue of Faith, which despite its immense weight serves as a weather-vane. The Cathedral proper was begun in 1403, finished 1519. The most striking entrance is the Puerto, del Perdon, which was probably in old times the entrance to a minaret. It opens on the Orange Court, from which you pass under a fine Arabic arch into the Cathedral by the so-called Lizard Boor. Notice especially the Chief Altar, the Choir, the gigantic Organs, the Tomb of Fernando Columbus, the Capilla Real, which contains the tomb of St. Ferdinand, and the tomb of Alfonso the Wise : also a portrait of Ferdinand, by Murillo, in the chapel of the Baptistery. Observe the noted picture rep- resenting St. Anthony of Padua, which was cut out of its frame and carried off to New York in 1875, and has now been restored. In the upper sacristy there are also several paintings by the same artist. In the sacristy of Los Calices is a St. Dorothea by Murillo, an " Ecce Homo " by Morales, and a remarkable painting by Goya. In the Sacristia Mayor is the vast and magnificent custodia in silver made in 1587 by Juan de Arfe. It is in the form of a circular temple, crowned with, a statue of St. John and covered with a most prodigious number of ornaments and statues. Seville during Holy Week presents a con- stant succession of curious spectacles, religious in character. From the top *)f the Giralda Tower, which is reached by an inclined plane, up which 424 SEVILLE. — THK ALCAZAR. it is said two horses can be ridden abreast, <*ood view of the town, the river winding through the plains, and the lulls beyond. Leaving the Cathedral by the Giralda Door, you reach the square on which is the Archbishop's Palace. Thence go round the Cathedral to the Plaza del Triunfo, where is a monument com- memorating the earthquake of 1755. In the middle of this square is the Lonja, where is a precious collection of documents relative to the discovery and conquest of America. This is called the Indian archives. Not far away is The Alcazar. — This is, with the Mosque at Cordova and the Alhambra at Granada, the most beautiful Moorish monument in Spam. It was connected witl the great walls that ran round Seville in the time o\ the Arabs. In the Alcazar were born and died the Kings Alfonso the Wise, Don Sancho IV., and Alfonso XL, father of Don Pedro the Cruel. The local guides, who are very civil and obliging, and satisfied with reasonable pay, will give you full description of the beauties of the Alcazar. Ask the guide to take you through the modern royal rooms, inhabited by the Monarchs of Spain whenever they visit Seville. The gardens of the Alcazar are delightful. The Casa de Pilatos, or House of Pilate, is an edifice built at the beginning of the 16th century, by the first Marquis of Tarifa, Tradition says he had brought back from a journey made to Jerusalem in 1519 a quantity of earth from . the very house of Pontius Pilate, and this was sufficient to form the layer on which were laid the foundations of the present palace, built on the plans of the dwelling of Pilate at Jerusalem. There are a great num- ber of curious and interesting palaces and pri- vate houses to be seen in Seville. The Casa de los SPAIN". 425 Taveros, where the tribunal of the Inquisition had its sitting, will attract the traveller's attention. The guides procure admission for you to the patios of the richest houses, where you can get an idea of the luxury and beauty of these southern Spanish residences. The Gh. of S. Martino has some good pictures. The Hos- pital of La Garidad, or the Charity, near the Golden Tower, which stands on the bank of the Guadalquivir, contains several of Murillo's best paintings. The pro- vincial museum is also quite rich in the works of Murillo, Zurbaran, and other noted artists. Murillo* was born in Seville, Jan. 1, 1618. The Palace of Santelmo, the residence of the Duke of Montpensier, is one of the marvels of this city. Its gardens now form the Parque Maria Luisa. Seville is as busy and thriving as Cordova is deserted and shabby. The banks of the Guadalquivir are lined with ware- houses, and the traffic is very brisk. From Seville, if you adopt our plan for a short Spanish journey, we recommend you to proceed directly to Madrid. If you have not stopped at Cordova on your way down, but have gone directly through from the Alcazar de S. Juan, as many do, you may halt there on your return journey. Time from Seville to Cordova, nearly 4 hrs.; fares, 65 r. 60, 49 r. 20, 29 r. 45. From Cordova to Madrid it is 274j M. ; time by ordinary trains, 16 hrs.; fares, 321 r., 171 r., 104 r. 98. The express rates are somewhat higher. In the late summer and autumn months there is an express train, 3 times a week each way, between Madrid and Seville. Between the Alcazar de S. Juan and Madrid is the station of Castillijo, where you may branch off to Toledo, but we do not recommend this. It is better to go to Madrid first ; then to make the Toledo visit a round-trip excur* sion of one day. A little beyond Castillijo is 426 ARANJUEZ. — MADRID. Aranjuez, with refreshment buffet. This is one of the summer residences of the Spanish court. Here is a palace, beautifully situated, commanding' an immense view ; but there is little that is architecturally striking in the building. The gardens are quite remarkable. The river Tagus flows through the domain. Madrid (Grand Hotel de la Paz; De Roma; De Paris; Fonda de los Embay 'adores ; Ingles; Penin- sular ; Cuatro Naziones; Orients), with 510.000 inhab., is the capital of Spain, the residence of the Court, and contains the finest paintings in Europe. John Hay said of Madrid that it was a "capital with malice aforethought," by which he alluded to its situation in the midst of a great arid plain, swept in winter by the murderous winds from the mts. We recommend the tourist to devote his chief attention to the museum ; then, if his time permits, to include the other edifices and collections of Madrid. The Museo del Prado contains vast and absolutely unrivalled collection of the works of the old masters, but they are not very well arranged. _ Two immense galleries are consecrated to Spanish painters, and oth- ers contain the different Italian, French, Flemish, and Dutch schools. Some idea of the riches of the museum can be formed from the statement that it contains 46 pictures bv Murillo, 14 by Zurbaran, 58 by Eibera, 64 by Velasquez, 55 by teniers, 16 by Rubens, 10 by Raphael, 20 bv Poussin, 66 by Luca Giordano, 22 by Yan Dyck, 54 by Breughel, 16 by Claude Lorraine, 16 by Guido Reni, 43 by Titian, 54 by Tintoretto, and 25 by Paul Veronese. About half-way down the principal gallery a door opens into an oval hall called the Salon de la Bepia Isabel Here are grouped together the chefs d'ceuvre of the museum. The guardians are very attentive. Catalogues edited with SPAIN. 427 great care may be had at the booksellers', or at the museum. In the Real Accidentia de Bellas Artes there is a collection of about 300 pictures, in 11 large rooms: Murillo, Goya, Rubens, and Zurbaran are well repre- sented. The Iluseo de Arte Modemo contains modern Spanish paintings and sculptures. There are several interesting private collections in Madrid. The couriers at the hotels will indicate them to you. The Royal Palace (Palacio Real) is situated in the W. part of the town. Among the 30 ri>oms on the 1st floor, the largest and finest is the Hall of the Ambassa- dors. The vault was painted by Tiepolo, and represents the exaltation of the Spanish monarchy. The walls are draped with velvet embroidered with gold, and 12 im- mense mirrors also decorate it. On the r. of the throne, which is guarded by 4 gilded bronze lions, is a statue of Prudence, and on the 1. that of Justice. The chapel is extremely rich, but not very handsome. The library, the theatre, the magnificent collection of Elemish tapes- tries, should be seen. On the S. of the square of the Pa- lacio Real is the Armeria (Museum of Armor), which contains an extremely interesting collection. Here are, among many relics of famous dead, the sword of the Gid Campeador, that of the Great Captain, Gon- zalvo of Cordova, and that of Don Juan of Austria: also the helmet of Francis I. The Military Museum of Artillery, at the Buenretiro, is also worth visiting. At the entrance are colossal statues of Philip IV. and Louis I. The museum gives a complete review of the progress made in artillery from the 12th to the 17th century. Here also are many flags carried during the Spanish conquest of America The naval museum, the cabinet of natural history, the botanical garden, the 428 MADKID. library (small but good) deserve a visit. Madrid has several important libraries, most noticeable among which are those of the University and of the legislative bodies. The Palace of the Congress, or Chamber of Deputies, is a handsome building, but not very remarkable. Its interior is very richly ornamented with fine paintings : that of the Senate occupies the old ch. of an Augustin- ian convent. In the great square of the Puerta del Sol is the Ministry of the Interior, formerly a post-office. The other public buildings and the Palaces are rather cold and formal in structure. The effect of the architec- ture of Madrid is not pleasing, compared with the won- derful richness of decoration to which the eye has become accustomed in Southern Spain. See in the Plaza Mayor the equestrian statue of Philip III. ; and in the Plaza de Oriente the statue of Philip IV. In the Plaza de las Cortes is a statue of Cervantes. None of the churches is particularly striking; the Catedral de Nuestra Seiiora de la Almudena is on the site of the old Armory. The Ch. of the Atocha, a modern Romanesque structure, contains the tombs of General Castanos, of Marshal Prim, and of other notabilities. In the old church the marriages of the royal family were celebrated, and the troops took the oath of allegiance. The cemeteries in the neighborhood of Madrid, with their long rows of walls in which the dead are sealed up, are very interesting. The Plaza de Torox, or the Bull Ping of Madrid, is one of the largest in the kingdom. It is a structure in Arabic style, built of brick, stone, and iron, and can seat 12,300 people. Every seat is numbered, and tickets to the bull-fights, which are usually given every Sunday from April to October, are comparatively inexpensive. Be careful in choosing your place to note whether it is on the shady or the sunny side. This is very important in Spain. SPAIN. 429 The comic opera and some of the minor theatres should be visifed. The Prado is a large boulevard which runs round a great part of the city, from the old Atocha gate to the Puerta de Recoletos. The Royal Museum is on this boulevard. Here on summer evenings is a magnificent display of Spanish beauty : commemorative monument here to the second of Maj one of the epi- sodes of the Prench occupation of 1&J8. There are numerous other fine promenades within the city. The Pue rid de Alcald, an arch of triumph to commemorate the entry of Charles III. into Madrid, may be seen on the way to the Bull Ring. The Puerta de Toledo was built to celebrate the return of Ferdinand VII. from his captivity. The Plaza de Madrid is quite fine. There are several bridges over the little river Manzanares, which oddly enough is for the greater part of the year without any water in its channel. The Puerta del Sol is a gay plaza in the centre of the city. About 7 M. from Madrid, on the r. bank )f the Manzanares, is the Royal Palace of the Pardo. Jxcursion to the Escurial may be made. It is 3T| M. from. Madrid ; five trains daily ; fares, 25 r. 50, 19 r. 25, 11 r. 50. The Escurial is called by the Spaniards the eighth wonder of the world. Philip II. built it in 1685 to commemorate the taking of St. Quentin, and to ac- complish a vow which he made to St. Lawrence. This vast building has 15 principal entrances, and more than 1,100 windows. It is entirely built of granite, and its appearance is monotonous and cold. The ch., the Capilla Meyor, filled with royal monuments, the sac- risty, a vast vaulted hall with a marble altar orna- mented with bronze, the choir, and the pantheon or v ault, where the kincrs of Spain are buried, are the prin- cipal things to see. You reach the pantheon by a mag- nificent stai rease of granite and marble. The urn con- 430 TOLEDO. taming the remains of Charles V. was opened in 1870, and the body was even then in perfect preservation. The Library of books and the MS. Library will attract the attention of scholars. The main entrance to the palace is in the middle of the N. facade. See the Hall of Battles, covered with frescos representing Spanish conquests ; and the apartments in which Philip II. lived and died. The Pavilion of Charles IV., called the Casa del Principe, is a charming little museum of paintings, sculptures, and mosaics. See the King's Seat, where Philip II. came to sit when presiding over the work of the palace. The royal abode of La Granja is on the route from Madrid to Segovia. Its apartments are said to be even more splendid than those of the palace at Madrid. There are two routes from Madrid to the ancient and picturesque town of Toledo. One leads through the royal residence town of Aranjuez ; the other is a little more direct ; fares about the same by both lines. Toledo (Hotel Castilla; Fonda del Norte; Fonda de Lino; Fonda Imperial) is one of the most remarkable towns in Europe. The rly. stat. is in the valley at the foot of the hill, near the fine Alcantara Bridge. An omnibus takes passengers from the train to the top of the hill. On the way up observe the tine view in the valley, where old Toledo, which was a town of 200,000 inhab., was situated. The Toledo of to-day has only about 20,000. The river Tagus makes a great curve around the town. It is crossed by the Alcantara and the S. Martino Bridges. The aspect of the city is majestic. Immense ramparts on the rocks ; great gates flanked with Moorish towers : old Puerta Visagra, which dates from the Arabic domination ; the celebrated Puerta del Sol, in the interior of the city, a chef d'ceuvre of Arabic architecture, are all impressive. The prin* SPAIN. 431 cipa! square is the old Zocodover, to-day called the Place of the Constitution. The principal objects of interest are the Cathedral, the Alcazar the celebrated Ch. and Convent of S. Juan de los Reyes, and a military college. The Cathedral was begun in 1227, and finished 2| centuries later. Its architecture is pure Gothic: exterior of great majesty. The principal W. front has 3' doors, called those of the TJscriba7ios, the Perdon y and the Torre. Door of the Pardon is the largest and richest. To the r. of the facade is the tower : on the 1. the Mozarabic chapel. The tower is nearly 200 ft. high, and the great bell in it weighs nearly 40,000 lbs. The beauties of the Cathedral are so numerous that we renounce a detailed uescription of them here. Observe particularly the Door of the Lions and its rich chapels, the Capilla Mayor, the wonderful effect of the vast range of stained-glass windows, especially when the sun is shining through them in the morning, the Coro, and the beautiful Gothic portal of the Sala Capitular. The Tombs of the Constable Don Alvaro de Lima and of the Cardinal de Albornoz are very imposing. The Ch. of S. Juan de los Reyes (1477) is ornamented with a great number of chains hung on the walls out- side, memorials of captivities among Moslems. The cloisters, recently restored, are among the most beautiful in the world. The stone sculptures here are of extraordinary delicacy and finish. The provincial museum contains a collection of about 300 pictures. S. Maria la Blanco, is a curious memorial of the Jewish epoch. The Military College contains about 600 cadets, who study their profession here from the age of 13 to 18 years. The Alcazar is a superb edifice which crosses the nighest point of the hill on which the city is built. At the 4 angles of its walls are square towers. The courtyard is formed of 32 arcades. It has been 432 VALLADOLID. - BURGOS. three times burned and three times restored. Iiv the court is a group commemorating the conquest of Tunis by Charles V. See the Paseo de las Rosas; the Paseo de Madrid. Valladolid (Francia, Calle de Teresa Gil ; Sigh, Plaza de S. Ana) is the next place of interest; although from the junction of Medina del Campo you can go by branch lines to the old university town of Sala- manca, or to Zamora. Valladolid is a town of 65,000 inhab., on the Pisuerga. Here see University , Cathe- dral, Santa Maria la Antigua, San Pablo, Colegio de San Cregorio, Museum, and Royal Palace. The University Library has a collection of Bibles. See Juan de Juni's "Virgen de los Cuchillos" in the church of Las Angustias, and house where Columbus died in 1506. The Museum of Valladolid, which is located in the Colegio de Santa Cruz, contains sculp- tures in wood and examples of the works of Rubens, Mascagni, Carducci, and Cardenas. The principal treasure of the cathedral is a magnificent custodia, or tabernacle, in silver. Burgos (Hotels: Fonda del Norte; Paris), with 32,000 inhab., may be seen hi a short time. Notice the Bronze Statue of Charles III. ; the celebrated Casa del Cordon; iheCasade Miranda, covered with sculp- tures; the Espolon, beautifully decorated, with 3 fine alleys bordered with trees, filled with statues, gardens, and fountains ; the Cathedral, one of the marvels of the 13th century. Its portal and 2 clock-towers are of Goth- ic architecture. The principal facade towards the W. is a marvel of stone lacework. The interior is magnifi- cent, and ornamented with pictures, statues, tombs, sculptures, bas-reliefs, etc Observe the Tomb of the Constable of Castille. In Ch. of S. Esteban is a very fine Cena, Notice the Triumphal Arch raised by Philip II. to Fernando Gonzales : also the house of the Cid, or the monument erected in 1784 on the ruins of that SPAIN. 433 house. In the City Hall are the remaLis of the Great Captain and his wife, enclosed in a sculptured wooden coffin. The Arch of S. Maria is very handsome. Many fine excursions in the vicinity of Burgos. The towns of Vittoria, Pamplona, Bilbao, and San Sebastian (the pretty watering-place frequented in late years by English and Americans) all deserve attention; but the tourist will hardly find time to stop at any of them. The frontier of France is, reached at Irun. There is little of importance to see in Irun : memorials of the Carlist civil war in all this neighborhood. Hendaye is the first French station. A little beyond it is S. Jean de Luz. The old town of Fontarabia may be reached from Irun. Next comes Biarritz {Grand Hotel; Victoria et de la Plage; UAngleterre; Des Princes; Pes Ambas- sadeurs; De V Europe; good Casino here; omnibus to Bayonne every half hour), one of the most popu- lar seaside resorts on the S. coast of France. It was a favorite resort of the Empress Eugenie. Bayonne, 23f M. from Irun (Hotel du Commerce; St. Etienne; Pes Ambassadeurs; De France; Castille), with 27,000 inhab., is at the confluence of the Adcur and the Nive. Fine stained glass windows in the Cathedral, 15th century. The Place Gram' wiont routams the Theatre, the Mairie, and the Cu- a .tnn> House, Good view of the sea from the citadel. The bayonet was invented here, whence its 6ame. 431 LISBON PORTUGAL. WE have thought it probable that the vacation tourists would not be likely to push their jour- ney as far as Lisbon, but we give a short paragraph con- cerning the journey to Portugal. Fares from Madrid to Badajos, %*l\\ M, 299 r. 50, 227 r. 91, 145 r. 87. From Badajos to Lisbon it is 174^ M., 5,260 reis, 4,100 r., 2,930 r. ; time, 10 hrs. ; 2 trains a day. Lisbon time is 25 min. slower than that of Madrid. The reis, the Portuguese monetary unit, is about \ centime, or 2\ mills : each franc is therefore worth 200 reis. The conto de reis, or a million of reis, is 500 francs. The Spanish real, 25 centimes, is 46 reis. On the way from Badajos to Lisbon you pass through Santarem, where there are ■many curious remains of the Moorish architecture of the Middle Ages. Lisbon, in Portuguese Lisboa (Aveuida Palace; Grand Hotel Central, situated on the Bay; Continen- tal; Braganga; Durand, mod. charges), with 310,000 iniiab., is on the r. bank of the river Tagus, built in an amphitheatre on numerous hills. The general view of Lisbon on approaching it by river or by rail is magnificent. The finest streets are those of the Duro do Praga Augusta, the Chiado, and Alecrim. The Commercial Square, Praga do Commercio, has the largest and most remarkable public buildings in the city. It is also called the Esplanade of the Hills. In the middle is the colossal equestrian bronze statue of Jose I. On 3 sides of the square are sumptuous buildings, the Exchange, the Custom House, the Post Office, the Ministries, et^ On the middle of the N. side. PORTUGAL. 435 magnificent Triumphal Arch. The Cathedral, Chs. of S. Antonio, of S. Roque, of the Carmelites, and many convents have rich collections of art treasures. The Royal Palace, or Paco das Necessidades, faces a small square of the same name, See Botanical Gardens, reported the finest in the world. Observe beautiful aqueduct which crosses the Alcantara Valley. The Library of the Royal Academy of Sciences, National Museum of Fine Arts, and the San Carlos and Dona Maria Segunda Theatres should be seen. There are but few remains of old Lisbon, which was destroyed by the great earthquake. The inclined plane rlys. are convenient; fine views on many of them. TheBelem. possesses a great many fine gardens. The old JBelein Monastery is worth a visit. Ramalhao, the Almada Mafra, a vast convent ch., and the Palace of Cmtra, where is an old castle of the Moors, are the principal suburban points for excursions. From Lisbon there is weekly steam communication with South America, with the East, and with England. A journey may be made to Oporto, taking Goimbra on the way. Fares to Oporto, 6,610 reis, 5,140 r., 3,680 r. ; time, \\\ hrs. ; distance, 15 8^ M. Coimbra {Continental; Mondego; Braganga) is on the r. bank of the Mondego and has a most delicious climate. It is very rich in poetic tradition and has numerous manufactures of faience. The Romans made it one of their most important military posts. To- day the remains of the old walls are still to be seen. University, with 900 students here. The old Cathedral is Byzantine, and quite rich in character. The Chapel of the Twelve Apostles is remarkable., Yisit Quinta das hagrimas Park with its Fonte dos Amour, where lived Inez de Castro, sung by Camoens, 436 OPOKTO. — PAU. Oporto (Hotel Francfort; Grand Hotel; H^tel dt* Paris), with 140,000 inhab., is the second city of Por- tugal. It is built on 2 hills, and the valleys which ex- tend between these are filled with charming villas and country-houses. The effect of the Quintas, or Terraces, is quite delightful. The Cathedral, or La Se, is not especially striking. The town is divided into 3 quar- ters, the oldest of which, San Martinho, has but little of importance. The Royal Hospital, the Ch. Dos Cleri- os (with its high tower), the elegant theatre, the great arracks, the Episcopal Palace, the Ch. of Our Lady of Lapa, where the heart of Emperor Dom Pedro IV. is preserved, and the interior of the Ch. of S. Francisco ; also the libraries, 65,000 vols., the Exchange, and the Museum, merit brief attention. Oporto is a thriving commercial town. From Lisbon to Eoora it is 72 M. ; fares 3,120 r., 2,390 r., 1,610 r. Evora is a highly fortified city of 12,000 inhab., in the midst of beautiful fields filled with orange, olive, and fig groves. Many Roman antiquities here. Erom Lisbon a rly. runs to Faro, 169^ M. Faro, on the S. coast of Portugal, is a small town of 10,000 inhab., with a good cathedral; fine military hos- pital, large and well-built streets, and an excellent port. Just opposite it, in the Atlantic Ocean, is a small group of islands. Erom Bayonne it is 65f M. (fares, 13 fr., 9 fr. 75 c. 7fr. 20 c.) to Pau {Hotel Gassion, a splendid edifice ; Bellevue; Splendide; Be France; Beau Sejour; de la Poste; Grand Hotel; de la Paix; de V Europe. Pensions: Colbert; Hattersley. Restaurants: Gassion, Com- merce, de la Borade), with 29,000 inhab., is one of the most important towns in the lower Pyrenees, and is a favorite winter resort because of its delicious climate. FRANCE. 437 Life is raiher expensive at Pan, but there are a great number or' strangers there yearly; abundance of beautifully furnished apartments to be had. The town is divided into 2 parts by the little brooklet called the Gave, over which there are 5 bridges. The Castle of Henri IV. (open dailv except Mon. from 10 to noon and from 2 to 4 p.m.), near Pau, is well worth visiting. Magnificent Flemish tapestries made by order of Francis I., in the great Hall of the States. The Cli. of S. Martin, modern ; the Palace of Jus- tice; the Museum (open Thurs. ancl Sun., from 1 to 5, free, and every day for a small fee); the Place Hoy ale, with a statue of Henri IV,, may all readily be seen in a few hours. From Pau 24 M. rly. to Laruns, thence omnibus to Eaux-Bonnes (Hotel des Princes ; He France ; Continental) and Eaux- Chaudes. The former town receives between 6 and 10,000 invalids and tourists annually; vast bathing establishments here, also Casino, concert halls, theatre, reading rooms, etc. The thermal establish- ment at Raux-Chaudes (Hotel Baudot; He France) Ip one of the best arranged in the Pyrenees. The waters are especially successful in catarrh, rheuma- tism, and skin diseases. For full description of this Pyrenean bath region we cannot do better than to refer you to the work on the Pyrenees by Adolphe and Paul Joanne, published by Hachette, Paris. Cauterets (Hotel Continental; He France; HAn- gteterre; Du Pare) may be reached via Pau and Tar-oes. There are 24 springs here and 9 bathing establishments; about 20,000 tourists visit Cauterets annually. Beautiful excursions in the neighbor- hood. Going N"., after leaving Bayonne, the first place of importance is Bordeaux (Hotel de France; I)e Bayonne; He Faisan; Hes Princes et de la Paix; Hes America-ins; 438 BORDEAUX. Confortable ; Commercial), with 256,000 inhab., a beautiful town ou the 1. bank of the Garonne. The city takes the form of a crescent, which it bears on its coat of arms. The Garonne River here is very wide and. deep, and navigable for nearly all classes of steamships. See the Bordeaux bridge, built in 1819, from which admirable view of the river, and its banks lined with palaces, warehouses, and shops. The Place de la Comedie, on which stands a great theatre, is the principal rendezvous for strangers. All the principal hotels are in this neighborhood ; but the largest of all the squares in Bordeaux is the Place des Quinconces. Here are the Rostral columns, surmounted by statues of Com- merce and Navigation. There are also marble statues here of Montaigne and of Montesquieu ; an equestrian statue of Napoleon III., which stood in the Tourny alley, was taken down in 1870. The oldest monument in Bordeaux is an amphitheatre called the Palais Gallien. This is supposed to have been built by the Romans, in the 3d century. The Cathedral of S. Andre was con- secrated in 1090 ; rebuilt at different epochs ; and is now being restored. Near the Cathedral is the Bell Toiver of Pev-Berland, so called after the Bishop who built it, in 1440. The ch. of S. Michel, founded 1160, belongs to the ogival order. It also has an isolated bell tower. The ancient ch. of S. Croix has a rich fayade recently restored. The Palace of Justice has numerous statues of noted Frenchmen. In the vestibule of the court stands a statue of Montesquieu. Many of the other public buildings are adorned with sculptures and paintings. The great Theatre lias a fine vestibule orna- mented with Ionic columns. It was in this theatre that the National Assembly held its sessions in 1871, and that the nation resolved to make peace with the Prus- sians. The Museum, founded 1803, has about 600 FRANCE 439 pictures of moderate merit ; catalogue, 5(; c. *, museum open Sun., Mon., and Thurs., 10—3 ; other days small fee. See Library, 200,000 vols , the Museum of Antiquities and the Museum of Natural History, also the Bonie Museum. In the chapel of the Lycee, on the Cours des Torres, is the tomb of Mon- tesquieu. Bordeaux is a very important commercial port : steam navigation with South America, Russia, Holland, England and Ireland, New York, and New Orleans. The public garden is a pretty promenade. The watering-places of Bagneres de Bigorre and Bagn* eres de hmchon may both be conveniently reached from Bordeaux. From Bordeaux it is 34f M. (fares, 4 fr. 65 c, 3 fr. 55 c, 2 fr. 45 c.) to Arcachon {Grand Hotel; Leg allais ; De Francs? Richelieu; J amp//). This is a charming seaside resort on the Bay of Biscay; and in the pine forest which stretches along the coast are a great number of winter villas. The Casino is a charming palace with Moresque 'cupolas and minarets. About 100,000 persons visit Arcachon annually. From Bordeaux it is 159^- M. (time, h\ hrs., fares, 3i fr. 65 c, 23 fr. 75 c, 17 fr. 40c.) to Toulouse {Hotel Ticollier ; Be r Europe ; Souville), with 147,000 inhab. This is the old capital of Lan- guedoc, on the r. bank of the Garonne. There is but little of interest to the tourist here except the Cathedral of St. Etienne and the Museum (founded 1792) of an- tiquities, pictures, and plaster casts. From Bordeaux to Paris it is 35 8| M. ; time, about 9 hrs. by express ; fares, 72 fr. 5c, 54 fr. 5 c, 39 fr. 65 c. You pass through Angouieme, Poitiers, Tours, and Orleans. Angouieme {Hotel dit Palais,; de France), on the Chart'iite, is an old town built on a rocky hill, and has a 440 VICHY. — AIX-LES-BAINS. fine Gothic Cathedral, Theatre, a Cabinet of Natural History, and a good Library. Poitiers {Hotel du Palais ; De V Europe ; De France) is near the river Clain. Its finest square is the Place d' Amies. Cathedral in Gothic style, with very lofty halls. Interesting ch. of S. Hilaire, also the Byzantine Notre Dame ; many Roman antiquities here ; Palace of Justice, with room much like Westminster Hall in "London. The English held this town 300 years. 4M, from Poitiers is the battle-field where the Black Prince defeated the French under John, in 1356, Orleans and Touts, see pages 197-198. Two of the most celebrated of French summer- resorts are Vichy and Aix-les-Bains, both of which are easily reached from Lyons. Vichy {Hotel des Ambassadeurs ; Du Cherbourg . Du Pare ; Des Princes; Mombrun; De Richelieu; D\ Louvre) is on the banks of the Allier, in a pretty valley enclosed in an amphitheatre of hills. It is the most popular watering-place in France. Wonderful cures oi gout and rheumatism are reported from Vichy. Bath- ing season begins May 1 and ends October 1. The old town, with its ruined walls and ancient towers, is striking. Most of the hotels are around or near the old Park, at one end of which is the bathing establish- ment, and at the other the Casino. Aix-les-Bains {Grand Hotel d'Aiz ; De V Europe > Bernascon et Regina ; Du Centre ; International; Du JSford et Grande Bretagne) is a very popular watering-place in Savoy, 8 M. from Chambery ; 9 sul- phur springs here effect important cures. See Roman remains ; Casino, Baths; English Ch. Beautiful ex- cursions to source of the Marlizo; to the Abbey of Haute Combe, where are the tombs of the House of Savoy ; to the Nivolet; to the Mollard Car den; to the Cascade; to Gresy; and to the Annecy. COPENHAGEN. 441 A TOUR IN THE NORTH. FROM Hamburg, in Germany (see page 239), you may, if time permits, make a tour of great interest in the North. We will for the present con- tent ourselves with briefly laying down some skeleton routes for a short journey through portions of Den- mark, Norway, Sweden, and Russia. You may begin your trip by going to the chief city in Denmark. From Hamburg to the German naval depot of Kiel it is 3 hrs. by rail; from Kiel to Korsor by steamer 5 hrs. ; and from Korsor it is 2| hrs. to Copenhagen. Or you may go all the way by rail from Hamburg to Copenhagen, by Schleswig, 220 M., in 12| hrs. (fares, 38 k. 95 6., 21 k. 10 5.). Practical Information. — The money in Denmark, Norway, and Sweden is reckoned in krone (k.) and ore, or 0re (6.). There are 100 6. in 1 k. ; 90 6re=l shil- ling. — Steamboat schedules are frequently altered: remember this in making plans. — ■ The best season for travelling in these countries is from June to mid-Sep- ternber. — For a journey to the North Cape, select June or July. — The fjords of the Western Coast of Norway should be seen if possible. See Baedeker, and an ex- cellent Guide du, Voyageur, published in Stockholm, for detailed trips. Copenhagen {jPhmnix ; King of Denmark; D'An- gleterre; Monopol; Dagmar; National), 409,000 inh., stands upon the E. coast of Zealand, and is enclosed in a line of fortifications, now used as a promenade The panorama of batteries, clocks, stores, and arsenals, as seen from the sea, is quite imposing. The E. 442 COPENHAGEN, part of the harbor is protected by the Castle of Frederihshavn. Part of the city is built on the smail Island of Amager, and is called C hristianshavn. The channel between the two islands forms the port. Copenhagen has a great number of palaces and public buildings, and 2 to 3 days may well be spent in inspecting the art collections. The royal residences are quite numerous. Amalienborg, the chief house of the royal family, consists of four small palaces. That next to the Colonnade is the king's; the second is the Foreign Office; the third contains state apartments; the fourth pertains to the crown prince. Bronze Statue of Frederick V, in the square. The Royal Chapel faces the ruins of the Christiansborg Palace, burned down in 1884. The handsome 3-towered Gothic Rosenborg Castle is in the centre of the King's garden. There see Chronological collection of the Danish Kings — - rooms dedicated to each king, and filled with relics of his life and deeds. The Audience Chamber of Christian IV, ; the golden cups ; the bedroom in ■which Christian IV. died, in 1648 ; the Marble Hall ; the beautiful room called the Rose ; and the Turret Chamber are the other curiosities. Observatory near this palace. Frederiksberg Pal- 'ace (now a military school) is 1 M. out, in a beau- tiful park. Zoological Gardens near by. In the Vor-Frue-Kirhe (Ch. of Our Lady) are famous sculp- tures by Thorwaldsen ; and in an alcove his coffin was placed at the funeral, while the royal family stood bareheaded round it„ See Thorwaldsen's Bap- tismal Font; also two bas-reliefs — the Baptism of Christ and the Last Supper. The Art Museum con- tains a fine collection of modern Danish paintings and sculptures (not Thorwaldsen's), and also a num- ber by older artists, being especially rich in examples of the Rembrandt school. The Old Gflyptotheh and the New Glyptotheh contain very valuable collections ei: ancient and modern sculpture respectively. COPENHAGEN. 44S The greatest curiosity in Copenhagen is Thorwald- sen's JIuseum, built by subscription to contain casts of all his works and many originals (daily. 11-3; on Mon., Tues., Thurs., Sat. adm. 50 6.; catalogues at hotels and museum). Here also is the tomb of the great sculptor, in the Prindsens-Palais is the Na- tional Museum, containing the Danish Collection (prehistoric and historic) of northern antiquities, the Ethnographic Collection, and the Collection of An- tiquities* Open daily, except Monday, 12 or 1 to 3. Visitors should see the Arsenal, close to the Chris- tiansborg Palace (open Wed., 1-3). Royal Library (550,000 vols.) close by, Beautiful new equestrian statue in bronze opposite the palace. The Exchange, the Museum of Natural History, the University, Library, the Ch. of the Trinity, with its famous Round Tower (built by Christian IV.), Count Moltke's collection of pictures (Wed., 12-2), and the pretty theatres are enough to keep visitors busily oc- cupied for a week. — Near Copenhagen is Charlottett- lund, a country house, inhabited in summer by some member of the royal family. Pretty drives hereabouts. Trolley to Deer Park, royal preserve, filled with vast herds of stags, red deer, and fallow deer; and to Hurt- holm, where once stood a superb palace built by Chris* tian VI. Not far away is the Island of Hveen, where the astronomer Tycho Brahe resided. Sentimental travellers may wish to visit Elsinor* (Oresund Hotel), 30 M, from Copenhagen, easily readied by rail in fifty minutes. The Castle and the Cathedral are the chief sights. Marienlyst, N. of the town, is a sea-bathing establishment. Here on & terrace among some trees is shown a mound, called the £rave of Hamlet (see Murray's " Denmark ") . Hamlet's identification with this spot is founded on very sh'ghi 444 ELSINORE. - MALMO. \ proof. Near Elsinore is Ourre, a famous residence of many Danish kings. Roeshilde was the most impor- tant town in Denmark, and remained a royal residence from the 10th to the 15th century. The Cathedral is the finest building of its kind in Denmark. On the so-called ' ' Kings' Column " in this cathedral are cut in the stone the records of the heights of many royal personages, including Peter the Great and Edward VII. In its N. aisle, Saxo Grammaticus, the chron- icler, is buried. From Elsinore it is not far to Fredensborg, where the Danish Royal Family has its reunions. Carriage drive thence (1 hour, 4 k.) to castle of Fredrichsborg, built by Christian II in 1620. Here is interesting historical museum (daily, 9.30-4 and 5-7, 1 k.). Five mm. to Hillerod {Hotel Leidersdorf), whence railway in 1 hr. back to Copenhagen. From Copenhagen, those persons who do not wish to visit Norway can go by steamer four times daily in 1£ hrs. (16 M.) to Malmo (Kramer's Motel; Horn), on the Swedish coast, and thence by rly. in sixteen hrs. (one through express daily; fares, 52 k. 5 6., 35 k„ 65 6.) to the Swedish capital, Stockholm, Malmo (55,000 inhab.) was during the Hanseatic period the chief commercial town on the Sound 3othwell, Mary Stuart's third husband, was imprisoned in the castle here, 1573-78. Charles XV. died here. On the way to Stockholm you pass through £mn& {Stadshuset ; Grand Hotet) t where is the finest cathedral in Scandinavia, founded in the 11th century. £fee old University buildings here ; and near the Cathe- dral a Statue of Tegner, who composed many of his poems at Lund. His study is shown to visitors. Linkoping {Stora Hotellet) also has a noble ch., built 1150-1499. Notice NorrMping. »ear Stockholm. GOTHENBURG. — CHRISTIANIA. - 445 NORWAY. One may go from Copenhagen to Christian ia by sea (semi-weekly steamers touching at Gothenburg). The fares are low, but the boats are small and not always clean, and the sea is very rough; time, 36 hrs. The best way is to go by rail via Elsinore (ferry 40 min.) ; time, 19 hours. Gothenburg (Haglund's; Got a Kallare; cPAngle- terre) is a busy and pleasant commercial town of 125,000 inh. , on the Gotaelf. Excellent harbor, rarely closed by ice. The first impulse given to Gothenburg was during the continental blockade, when it formed the depot of English trade with Northern Europe. The Exchange, the Toivn Hall, the Christina kyrka, the Statue of Gust avus Adolphus, the Museum (open daily), the Slottsshog Park, with fine view, and the pretty garden of the Horticultural Society with hothouse and exotic plants near the Wallgraf, comprise the chief features of the town. Those who wish to go from Gothenburg to Stockholm by the steamer can do so (Tues., Fri., Sat.; fares, 25, 17, and 12 k.). Christiania (Grand; Victoria; Skandinavie; Bri- tannia; Boulevard), the capital of Norway, has 200,000 tnhab. Steamships from London, Holland, Hamburg, etc.. land their passengers on the two quays near the Custom House (porterage from the steamer, 30-40 6. ; cabs to the hotel, 40, 60, 80 6.) Christiania is charm- ingly situated at the N. end of a fjord. It was founded by (and named for) Christian IV is. 1624. The city has taken on new life and greater importance since the establishment of Norway as an independent kingdom. The University, National Picture Gallery, Observatory, and Royal Palace will occupy the attention for a day. E. of the 446 CHRISTIANIA AND SUBURBS. market-place is the Ch. of Our Saviour, consecrated in 1697, restored, in 1849. Near this edifice is the famous Steam Kitchen for the poor classes, where economical dinners are cooked for 2,000 people daily. The Theatres, the Freemasons' Lodge, the Akershus, the Fortress (many centuries old), are all within an easy walk of each other. The Akershus was besieged by Duke Eric of Sweden in 1310, and in 1716 by the famous Charles XII., who was signally defeated a little later by the Norwegian naval hero Tordenskjold. Good views from the ram- parts. See the Mdsvolds Plads, the pretty square planted with trees, E. of which is the Parliament Edifice. This has a handsome facade, flanked with granite lions (fee to enter). The summer session ends in June. The National Gallery (Sunday, Tuesday, Wednes- day, Thursday, Friday, 12-3, free; at other times, fee) was founded in 1837, and contains 400 pictures. The Trinity Ch., the Gamle Akers Kirke, — the oldest ch. in Christiania, founded in the 11th century, ■ — the monument to Wergeland, the most famous of Nor- wegian poets, and tks view from St. John's Hill should not be forgotten. 5 6., 33 k. 50 6. ; on slow trains a little less ; sleeping cars 5 k. and 3 k. extra) . Stockholm ( Grand Hotel; Rydberg; Rung Karl; Kung Karls Annex; Continental; in the old town, Oslergotland) . Good restaurants in principal hotels. In the southern fauborg, Peligan ; fine view over Stockholm ani its environs. Good music at Blanch's Cafe, Bern's Salon'ger, and the Stromparterre every evening. The principal bank, Rihsbanken, at Jern Torgct. Population, -307,000. Sea com- munication with Stettin, Lubeck, Copenhagen, Am- sterdam, London, St. Petersburg, Bordeaux and Finland, by comfortable steamships and boats. Taxo- meter cabs, 1-2 persons, 50 6. per kilometre, each ad- ditional Yi kilometre 10 6. ; trunk from rly. station 20 6 ; fares higher after 11 p.m. Trip to suburbs at moderate rates. There is an excellent electric tram- car system (10 o.) The capital of Sweden is situated on tne banks of Lake Malar, where it empties into the Baltic Sea. and occupies two peninsulas and many islands, joined by handsome bridges. Old travelers say that Stockholm's situation is- the most beauti- ful in Europe, afb'r that of Constantinople. The city is divided into six parts: the St a den, or city, formed by the islands of Stadsholmen, Rid- darholmen, and Helgeaudsholmen, the narrowest Mid least agreeable part of Stockholm, but the most 450 PRINCIPAL SIGHTS IN STOCKHOLM. animated, and the commercial centre; Norrmalm, the N. section, with the island of Blasieholmen; Ladugdrds- landet, a quarter built in the reign of Queen Christina; Kungsholmen (King's Island) ; Sodermalm, the S. fau- bourg; and Saltsj'6-Oarne, composed of four islands. The oldest chroniclers give to the town the name which it bears to-day, — stock signifying straight, and holme, island. See local guide at bookstores for the romantic legends connected with the origin of Stockholm. Fine views from the Mosebacke ; from Kastellholmen ; from the Observatory ; from the Tower of Jacob's Ch. j from Bystr'om's Villa ; and from the Tivoli. Principal Sights. — In the city Staden: the Royal Palace, — burned in 1697, and rebuilt in 1753, — one of the finest in Europe, on an eminence close to junction of lake and sea. Vast panorama from the terrace; View of the city and the innumerable bits of water, the majestic mountains, forests, and green plains. Cost of palace, 10,500,000 k. See the N. fapade and the Gus- tavus Adolphus Place. Here is the Lejonsbacken, a stair- case ornamented with huge bronze lions. The front portico is decorated with the Swedish arms, — 3 bronze crowns, supported by a figure of Renown. The S., W., and E. fa9ades have beautiful works of art. The chapel, 128 ft. long by 50 ft. wide, has fine marble columns and richly decorated walls. The pulpit, sculptured and gilded, is supported by the 4 symbols of the Evan- gelists, — the angel, eagle, lion, and ox. The altar-piece represents Jesus at Gethsemane. The Hall of State, 143 ft. long, 51 ft. wide, is by Tessin. See silver throne given to Queen Christina by Magnus Gabriel ; and statues of Gustavus II. and Charles XIV. by Bystrom. Here the king opens and closes the Diet in presence of the two chambers of the kingdom. The interior of the palace is visible all the year ; small fee. See the cere- STOCKHOLM. , 451 monial halls where great festivals are held : Audience Chamber ; fine ceiling by Fouquet; magnificent cande- labra, 29 ft. high ; two porcelains : lied Room, where Gustavus III. slept (many marble statues here) : great gallery, 162 ft. long; wonderful collection of sculp- tures ; mythological frescos : two smaller rooms, de- voted to pictures of battles ; a second gallery and two rooms devoted to allegories of Peace : Festival Hall, — sometimes called the White Sea, — with richly painted ceilings Victoria Hall, the Hall of the Columns, and the present king's and queen's apartments : Library very rich; Museum of Armour and Costumes, a good collection. On the great square, S= of the palace, is an obelisk, erected in 1799, in memory of the fidelity of the citizens of Stockholm during the war of 1788-1790 against the Russians. Near the port, statue of Gustavus III. Behind the obelisk is the . Church of St. Nicholas, founded m 1260 or 1264, reconstructed 1726-43, restored 1892; a spire 308 ft. high; interior divided into 5 naves by rows of columns; altar-piece in ivory, silver, and ebony, representing the birth of the Saviour ; organ one of the largest in Swe- den ; immense stores of beautiful silver vessels and candelabra; remarkable funereal monuments. Oppo- site the palace, beyond the Slottsbacken, is the House of the Governor of Stockholm, built by Tessin, the most celebrated architect of Sweden, who formerly owned it. In the Stortorget, or great square, the famous Bath of Blood, as it is called in Swedish history, — the execu- tion of 96 distinguished citizens, opponents of Christian II., King of Denmark, wiio was seeking to extend his rule over Sweden. — took place. Here is the Bourse, buiit in 1766= fine halls in the first story. Near by, the German ch. (1642), with tower 222 ft. high,, and the only chime of bells in Sweden; injured by fire in 1878, but restored. Here also is 452 STOCKHOLM. the Knights House (1648), one of the finest palaces in Stockholm ; noble staircase ; walls decorated with the arms of all the nobility of Sweden. Statue of Gustavus Vasa before this house, erected on the 250th anniver- sary of the entry of that king into Stockholm. The courts of justice and other nublic buildings are not fat away. At Skeppsbro, the port, are the telegraph office and the Custom House. The Scandinavian Credit Bank is the finest modern building in the city. The Gothic Ch. of the Knights' Island {Riddarholms-Kyrkar^ is on the Riddarholmen Island, to the W. of the Eques- trian Palace. It belonged to a famous Eraueiscan convent founded by King Magnus Ladulas, and was reconstructed in 1847. It is 192 ft. long, 60 ft. wide, and the tower is 290 ft. high. It is noticeable as a mausoleum of celebrated men (local guides give de. scription). The chief tomb is that of the Gustavus dynasty. N. of the choir is the Charles Chapel (built 1686-1743), with marble sarcophagus of Charles XII. Here also repose Charles X., Charles XV., Frederick, and many others. Ch. open Tues. and Thurs. (also Sat. in summer) 12-2 p.m. ; fee, 25 6. On the Riddarhoiin are also the Royal Courts of Justice, the Chamber of Deputies, t he Roy a I Archives, and the Statue of Birger jar I. Go by the great northern bridge — ■ 380 ft. long, in granite, built in 1797 — to Helgeands- holmen, with its pretty gardens, huge bazaar, and royal stables. In the N. section ( Norrmalm) is the Gustavus Adol- phus Place and statue, pedestal ornamented with re- liefs of celebrated Swedish generals. On the W., Palace of the Crown Prince. Opposite is Royai Opera House, erected on site of theatre where Gustavus HI. was killed by Ankarstrom. E. , near this square, is the STOCKHOLM. 453 Jacob's Ch. (1590). The S. portal is very rich with sculp- tures dating from 1644. The poet Kellgren is buried here. To the E. is the Charles XII. Place, with statue of Charles XII. To the N., the promenade called the King's Garden^ statue of Charles XIII. Pretty theatre and fountain near by. In the Berzelius Park, statue of Berzelius, the father of chemical science. E. of the Charles XII. Place is the National Museum (open daily except Mon., 11-3; Sun., 1-3). On the ground floor is the Historical Museum, founded in the 17th century, and one of the largest of its kind. The Hall of the Middle Ages is especially interesting. On the first floor are collections of furniture and house decora- tions, ceramics, and sculpture, the last of unusual merit. On the upper floor is the picture gallery, in which the Italian, German, Flemish, Spanish, French, Swedish, Norwegian, and Danish schools of painting are well repre- sented. From the National Museum, an iron bridge leads to the Skeppsliolm, an island on which are the Karl- Johanskyrka, the Naval Academy, and the Naval Arsenal. The Academy of Fine Arts (1671) is in the Red Shop Square. The Clara-Kyrka (1285; burned 1751; rebuilt 1753 ; restored 1893) is very interesting. At Kungsholmen are many hospitals and some of the chief manufactories. Also the Mint, and a ch. with a fine altar-piece. Not far away is the principal military school. There are many other interesting things in the city quarter (see local guides). The Ch. of St. John should be seen. In the cemetery of the latter, Yon Dobeln, one of the heroes of the last war against the Russians, is buried. The two principal streets of Stockholm are the Regents' and 454 UPSALA. Queen Street,—- in Swedish, Regeringsgatan and Drott- ninggatan. The Academy of Science, the Natural History Museum, the Technological Institute, the Min- ing School, and the Observatory are all in this quarter. In the Ostermalm quarter are the Artillery Square and a ch. founded in 1658, remarkable for its acoustics. Here also is the Royal Library of 200,000 vols., founded under Charles IX (open free every week- day, 10-3). In the Sodermalm, or S. faubourg, is the Karl Johans Place, with equestrian statue to memory of that king. Here also, in the Hormgatan, 43, is the house which Swedenborg inhabited. The Katharina- Kyrka is on the spot where the victims of the Battle of Blood were buried. Fine view from top of Soder- malm (elevator). The environs of Stockholm are noted for their beauty, especially during the wonder- fully clear nights of June and July. The Carlberg and Drottningholm should be visited, and especially the Djurgard, a beautiful park on an island 2 M. long. At the W. end of this island is the Northern Museum, a large collection of Scandinavian curios- ities. Here nearly every evening in summer popular dances in national costume are given accompanied by national music. No one should fail to' see them. Upsala (Stads-Hotellet ; Svea;- gooa restaur- ants), the most, famous university town in Sweden (20,000 inhab.), and the residence of the archbishop and other dignitaries. It lies on both banks of the Eyrisa, which is crossed by 5 bridges. It was formerly called Ostra-Aros, and when the Swedish kings resided at Gamla Upsala, it was their port. It is the historical and intellectual centre of Sweden, and its mythical associations are of the greatest interest. Visit the Gothic Cathedral (founded 1260), situated on a pictu- resque height. The chief curiosities are the Burial Chapel of Ghistavns Vasa (at the back of the choir) , and the tomb of Linnaeus, the great botanist. ABO. — HELSINGFORS. 455 N. of this cathedral is St. Eric's Spring, said to have burst forth on the spot where the saint was martyred. The Gh. of the Trinity has many handsome monuments, The University was founded in 1477. Many of its edifices are very striking in architecture. The library building is especially fine. The Library contains 200,000 vols., and 7,000 MSS. Here is the famous transla- tion of the four Gospels by Bishop Ulphilas, dating from the second half of the 4th century. The House oj Linnceus is still shown in Upsala. In the cemetery see monument to Geijer, the poet. There are 1,500 stu- dents at the University. Numerous charming excur- sions in the neighborhood. A pretty excursion is from Upsala to Qefie by rail in 3J- hrs, (6 k. 85 6., 4 k. 60 6.) e On the way you may see the Castle, which was fortified by Gustavns Vasa, and where Eric XIV. was imprisoned during his insanity. We will not attempt to give other excursions in Sweden, but will recommend the tourist next to pro- ceed from Stockholm to St. Petersburg. EUSSIA. Steamers sail 3 times a week in summer from Stock- holm to St. Petersburg in 3-4 days, stopping at Abo, the old capital of Finland, taken from the Swedes in 1809 by the Russians ; Helsingfors, one of the strong- est of naturally fortified harbors ; and Vyborg, taken from the Swedes by Peter the Great in 1710. The beauty of the hundreds of islands through which the steamer threads its way renders the journey a constant pleasure. The Ahland Islands are about 300 in number. Shortly after the steamer enters the Gulf of Finland, the dome of St. Isaac's Ch. in St. Petersburg is dis- tinctly visible On the Way up, the steamer passes 456 ST. PETERSBUEG. Cronstadt, the Russian Empire's chief naval station. It is defended by great batteries hewn out of the solid rock, and has extensive docks. The fortifications were begun in 1703 by Peter the Great, and have beer greatly strengthened since. The approaching seaward is secured by the erection of batteries and by the sink- ing of ships. An excursion can be made in one day from St. Petersburg to Cronstadt, Oranienbaum, Peter- hof, Strelna, and the Monastery of St. Sergius. Oranien- baum is a palace, built in 1724, confiscated to the crown from Mentchikoff's estate. It commands a magnificent view. The Peterhof Palace, begun in 1720 by Leblond, under the direction of Peter the Great, contains innumer- able articles of vertu, tapestries, marbles, porcelains, malachites, portraits, especially a collection of pictures of feminine beauties, 368 in number, collected from 50 Russian provinces. In front of the palace is a fountain called the Samson. There are two small palaces near here, of which Peter the Great was very fond, and in that of Mont Plaisir he died. The Hermitage, Alex- andra, where the Emperor lives while at Peterhof, and Strelna, the palace of the Grand Duke Constantine, are in this neighborhood. St. Petersburg (Hotel d' Angleterre ; Be Pussie ; DemoutKs ; Be France ; (T Europe) is the capital of the Russian Empire, and as the headquarters of the official world and the centre of Russian society must always possess a certain interest for the traveler (1,500,000 inhab.). The common supposition that it is not wise to visit Russia in midsummer is founded upon a mistake. The Russian summer climate is extremely soft and beau- tiful, and the tieat is never so intense as in some parts of North America. Of course, the social world is not so eay as in winter, but the tourist who expects to spend but 2 or 3 days in St. Petersburg will hardly care about this. ST. PETERSBURG. 457 The city was founded by Peter the Great, about 1703, and, like Madrid, it might be called a capital with malice aforethought ; for the energetic monarch set it down among the marshes through which the river Neva wan- ders towards the sea. On the islands in the channels of the divided Neva the greater part of the city is built. The Admiralty Quarter, so called, containing the public buildings, is on the mainland, on the S. bank of the Neva. St. Petersburg is in many respects a magnificent city, although the contrasts between squalor and great splendor are sometimes too sharp to permit of an agree- able impression. When the town was building, under Peter the Great, 40.000 or 50,000 peasants were em- ployed for years in filling up the marshes. It was the Empress Catherine who built the splendid granite quay along the Neva's 1. bank. The river has overflowed many times, and the inundations in the 18th century and in the early part of the 19th were very disastrous. The or- dinary tourist will find that the difficulties concerning passports, police supervision, etc., have been greatly exaggerated, and if he is not a Nihilist he will not be much troubled. A passport is, however, exacted on en- tering Russia, and has to be delivered up to the hotel proprietor for registration, and he hands it to you on leaving the hotel. The city is divided into 13 quarters, the Admiralty being the principal one. Prom the Ad- miralty three great streets branch off. They are called the Vosnessensky ; the Gorokhovaia, ending at the Champs de Mars ; and the famous Nevsky Prospect, where are the most elegant of the shops and many of the chs. and public buildings. The Cathedral of our Lady of Kazan, in the Nevsky Prospect, begun under Alexander I., and consecrated in 1811, is the metropolitan church of St, Petersburg. It is a copy of St. Peter's at Rome, and takes its name 458 ST. PETERSBURG. from an image of the Virgin brought from Kazan to Mos- cow in 1579. See the beautiful Corinthian colonnade, with columns of Finland granite. Interior superb ; shrine of chased silver, the gift of Cossacks who served in wars of 1813-14 ; images before which lamps are al- ways kept burning ; flags, arms, and standards, taken in battle ; bronze statues of Kutusoff and Barclay de Toll? in front of the ch. No organ or instrument is used in the service, but great pains are taken to secure good voices. Remark the deep bass intonation. The For- tress and Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul contains in its vaults the tombs of all the sovereigns of Russia since the foundation of St. Petersburg, except Peter II. (buried at Moscow). The fortress part of this edifice is used as a prison, and also contains the imperial Mint. The gilded spire is visible from a great distance. Hun- dreds of flags are suspended along the walls. The Cathedral of St. Isaac, the largest in St. Peters- burg, is on the site of a ch. built in 1710 by Peter the Great. Its foundations rest upon thousands of piles. The interior is chiefly striking from its splendid propor- tions. Notice the lavish use of polished granite, white marble, malachite, porphyry, and lapis lazuli. Pine view of city from dome. The Winter Palace (admission by tickets procured from chief of palace police ; fee), built in 1754, in Catherine's reign, stands on the r. bank of the Neva. This is the imperial city residence, and this building was the scene of the Nihilist conspiracies, which finally resulted in the death of Alexander II. in 1881. The exterior is not impressive, but the interior is richly ornamented with paintings, bronzes, marbles, and pre- cious stones. Grand festival here on New Year's Day by the Emperor to all his subjects. See the Ambassa- dor's Staircase on the Neva ; also the magnificent flight of white marble steps, leading to the state apartments, ST. PETERSBURG. 459 The Throne Room is the finest in Europe. The White Room, St. George's Hall, the Field Marshal's Gallery, the Alexander Hall, the Halls of Battles (in which are paintings by Horace Vernet), the Golden Chamber, the Empress's Winter Garden, and the Romanoff Gallery are the principal apartments. Near the entrance of the latter gallery is the green curtain, behind which is a tablet on which are the rules drawn up by the Empress Catherine, to be enforced at her receptions at the Her- mitage. In the jewel room, see the Imperial crown and sceptre (containing a diamond weighing 194 carats). See also room in which Emperor Nicholas died. The Her- mitage (open daily except Fri. and holidays, 11-4), close to Winter Palace, was founded by Catherine in 1765, and rebuilt in 1840-50. The famous museum contains 1,700 paintings of all schools, among them being some by Murillo, Velasquez, Rubens, Van Dyke, Rembrandt, and Ruysdael. There are also vast collections of en- graved stones, and designs by masters. The Taurida Palace, the Anitchkoff Palace, the Michael and the Marble Palaces are not impressive buildings. The Russian Museum of Alexander III (open daily, ex. Mon., 10-4) contains good collection of modern art. The Admiralty is a vast edifice with facade ^ M. long. Near it are the great dockyards, the headquarters of the army, and the War Office. The Wooden Cottage of Peter the Great, containing many relics of the famous monarch, is near the citndel. The Imperial Library, containing 400,000 vols., is near the Kazan Ch. Other noteworthy libraries are those of the Academy of Science, the Hermitage, and the Alexander Nevsky Monastery. This monastery is one of the most celebrated in Russia. It was founded by the great Peter in honor of Alexander the Great, who conquered the Swedes and the Livonians. The museum of the Academy of Science occupies a portion 460 MOSCOW of the superb building near the Admiralty. The Asiatic Museum is rich in Eastern antiquities. The Romanoff Museum, that attached to the Mining School, that of Natural History, and the Egyptian Museum should be seen. The theatres, kept up at the government expense, are all of large size. The Marien (opera and ballet), Alexander ( Russian drama and comedy), and Michael (French) are the best. The monuments are nearly all good. Those most worthy of attention are the Equestrian Statue of Peter the Great, -with a prancing horse balanced on its hind legs, by Falconet; and the column of Alexander, a single shaft of red granite 80 ft. high, weighing 400 tons, stands near the Winter Palace. The Summer (Jar dens, 1 M. long and -£- mile wide, beautifully ornamented, contain the palace in which. Peter the Great occasionally lived, A day excursion should be made to Tsarskoye Selo, where the emperor resides in the spring and autumn. It is lOli M. from St. Petersburg to Moscow. The rly. carriages are much like those of America in model. The stations are all comfortable, refreshment saloons excellent and fares reasonable. First-class express to Moscow, 24 roubles; second, 17 roubles. The principal town on the way is Tver, at the confluence of the Yvertsa and the Volga. Cathedral, Trinity Church. Here steamer can be taken to Nijni- Novgorod, and thence to Astrahan. Moscow (National, Slavianski Bazaar, CJiev- rier, d'Angleterre)^ or Holy Moscow, as the Russians call it, the ancient capital of Russia, formerly the residence of the Emperors, is situated on the Moskowa, in a pleasant country. Up to the great fire in 1812, it was the most irregularly built town in Europe, and to-day it remains original and pic- turesque in a striking degree. A good view may be had from Sparrow Hill (by carriage, about 7 r.) In the centre of the city is the Kremlin, a triangle 2 M. MOSCOW. 461 in circuit, filled with palaces, churches, arsenals, and museums. Here the Tartar architecture predominates. An excellent preparation for visiting the Kremlin is the perusal of Theophile Gautier's lively and sparkling book on a " Winter in Russia." The Redeemer s Gate and the Gate of St. Nicholas are objects of great veneration among Russians. Visitors must uncover their heads on pass- ing through the Redeemer's Gate. The present Krem- lin Palace is modern, the old Kremlin having been de- stroyed in 1812. Most of the ancient palaces were of wood. To Nicholas I. the erection of the present one is due. The Hall of St. George, the Hall of St. Alex- ander Nevskg, and Sts. Andrew and Catherine, and the Banqueting Hall, as well as the Terem, which contains a collection of the portraits of the czars, and from the terrace of which Napoleon I. looked down upon Mos- cow when he came there as conqueror, are among the Kremlin's chief marvels. In the little Ch. of the Re- deemer are some beautiful decorations. On the Cathedral Place is the Cathedral of the Assumption, founded in 1325, and rebuilt in 1472. Many sacred treasures here. In this ch. the Emperors of Russia are crowned. The Cathedral of the Archangel Michael contains many tombs of sovereigns. The Ch. of the Annunciation is where the czars are baptized ; is rich with relics. The jewels m all Russian chs. are worth studying. House of the Synod, Treasury (open free week days ex. Sat., Derm it at the chamberlain's office), and Arsenal will furnish plenty of amusement for a day. The Tower of loan Veliki, or John the Great, built in 1600, and 320 ft. high, contains 34 bells, the largest of which weighs 64 tons. When all these bells are rung together at Easter the effect is wonderful. At the foot, of this tower is the vast Tsar Kolokol, or Monarch of Bells It once hung in a tower (burned in 1737) ; weighs 444,000 lbs. ; and is 20 ft. high and 60 ft. round. The value of 462 NIJM-NOVGOKOD. — ODESSA. the metal in the bell is nearly $2,000,000. Outside the Kremlin is the Chinese town, so called, founded by Helena. Here are the Cathedral of St. Basil, built in 1554 by Ivan IV., the Romanoff Palace, the Iberian Gate and Chapel, the University (900 students), the great Riding School, the Theatres, and the largest Bazaar in Russia, except that of Nijni-Novgorod. The pigeon being looked upon as sacred by the Russians, thousands of these birds are to be seen in the streets of Moscow, S. of Moscow is a beautiful villa owned by the Imperial family. The Tretyakoff Gallery of modern Russian art (open daily ex. Mon., 10-4, free) is worth a visit. It is 27 If M. from Moscow to Nijni-Novgorod. Tourists pressed for time can take night tram there, spend the day at Nijni, and return the next night. Nijni-Novgorod (Be Russie, Egoroff's), a city of 75,000 inhab., is celebrated for its great fair, held an- nually in July and Aug., and attended by 200,000 peo- ple. Here the inhabitants of the barbaric East come into close contact with the Western merchants and vis- itors. The town is at the confluence of the Oka and the Volga. The Kremlin is on a bank overhanging the Volga. The transactions at the fair amount annually to $80,000,000. From Moscow to Odessa (40| hrs. ; fare, 32 r. 1st class, 20 r. 2d class) the route passes through Kieff. Odessa (De Londres, De St. Petersbourg) was founded in Catherine II.'s reign. It is an important commercial port, with 250, 000 inhab. ; but there is little of interest to the traveller except the Cathedral, a small museum, a bronze statue of Richelieu, and the University. Steamers (poor) leave Odessa twice a week for the Crimea and Sebastopol, and the field of the Crimean war may easily be visited. There is also steam communication with Constantinople. TABLE OF CLIMATIC HEALTH B* JORTS, MIN- ERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, AND HYDRO, PATHIC ESTABLISHMENTS. Tunes and railway fares are calcalnl'i I from Paris. Aix-la-Chapelle (10 hrs from Paris ; fare, 48 fr.).— Sulphurous alkaline waters, 107° to )20° I'. For skiu dis- eases, rheumatism, chrouic diseases of the nervous centres, neuralgias, paralysis, and syphilitic maladies. Aix-les-Bains (14 £• hrs.; 71 fr. 60 c). — Sulphurous hot springs, 112° to 114° F. Have a world-wide reputa- tion in cases of rheumatism and gout; also chronic catarrh of the neck of the womb, ameuorrhoea, metritis, syphilis, bronchitis, laryngeal and nasal catarrh, pharyngitis, wounds by fire-arms. April to Nov., and all the year. Am^lie-les-Bains (24f hrs.; 120i fr.). — Sulphurous sodaic waters, 71° to 172° F., and winter station. Herpetic diathesis, and catarrhal affections. All the year. Arcachon (10 hrs. ; 78 fr. 70 c). — Winter station, and sea baths. For invalids requiring a sedative air ; for delicate, lymphatic, and ansemic persons ; nervous complaints ; <;hest and lung affections ; scrofula ; gout. Winter season, from Nov. till June ; summer, from May till Oct. Aulus (24 J hrs.; 119 fr.). — Alkaline waters, 48° F. "Purgative, laxative, and diuretic action,, according to dose, in diseases of the liver, in arthritic auctions, and iu syphilis. Baden (27 hrs. ; 152^ fr.). — Sulphurous waters, 82° to •'5° F. For rheumatism, gout, amemia, and scrofula (espe- cially of a chronic character). May to Oct., and all the year. Baden-Baden (16 hrs. , 6S fr.). — Alkaline chloride $f sodium waters. 110° to 150° F. Uric acid diathesis, gout, and kindred complaints ; ailments dependent on malaria, a^d eertaia skin diseases ; chronic rheumatism ; wounds, frac- tures of the bonss, scrofula, syphilis, chronic catarrh, certain kiAaev affections, anreinia. May to Oct. and all the year. 464 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, Bagnfcres-de-Bigorre (22 Iii-s. ; 105 fr.). — Saline, sulphurous, ferruginous, and arsenical waters, 72° to 120° F. For tuberculosis, affections of the respiratory organs, intes- tines, and urinary system, anaemia, and female disorders. June to Sept., baths; Nov. to Mav, winter station. Bagnoles (19 hrs. ; 67 fr. 65* c). — Saline, sulphurous, lithic, silicate, and arsenical waters, 66° F. For diseases of the digestive organs, skin, rheumatism, and scrofula, chlor- osis, congestion of the abdominal viscera, phlebitis, &c. Bareges (2 H hrs.; 113 fr.). — Alkali-saline-sulphurous waters, 45° to 105° F. For scrofula, diseases of the bones, herpes and syphilis. June 15 to Sept. 15. Biarritz' (19i his. ; 96 fr. 80 c). — Sea-bathing and winter station. For chlorosis, anaemia, chest and lung com- plaints, laryngitis, pharyngitis. Aug. to May. Bourbon-l'Archambault (6| hrs. ; 40 fr. 75 c). — Bromo-iodurated saline waters, 125° F. ; and bicarbonate ferruginous maguesian waters, 120° to 160° F., highly gase- ous. For scrofula, rheumatism, paralysis, nervous affections. Bourboule (La) (13i hrs. ; 60 fr.). — Effervescent saline arsenical waters (28 milligr. arseniate of soda per litre), 140° F. For anaemia, lymphatism, general debility, affections of the skin and respiratory organs, rheumatism, and intermittent fevers. May 25 to Sept. 30. Cannes (201: hrs.; 130 fr.). — Winter station of first importance; climate tonic and stimulating near the sea; sedative towards Le Canuet. Sea baths in spring; season, Oct. to May. For nervous debility, anaemia, phthisis, laryn. gitis, pharyngitis, rheumatism, paralysis, gout, and diabetes. Carlsbrunn. — Highly effervescing, ferruginous manga- nese waters, 45° F. ; climatic station. For debility of the male and female sexual organs, sterility, impotence, affections of the brain due to overwork. June to Sept. Castellamare di Stabia (50^ hrs.; 248 fr.). — Sea baths; cold chloride of sodium, bitter and sulphurous chary = beate waters. For obstructions of the liver and spleen, affections of the mesenteric elands, biliary and '"isical calc»-&. MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, ETC. 465 jaundice, dropsy, hemorrhoids, chronic ophthalmia, herpes, catarrh of the digestive organs, hypochondriasis, urinary cal- culi, vesical catarrh, scrofula, lymphatism, congestion of the uterus, leucorrhcea, &c. Sea and mineral bathing, May to Oct. ; winter season, Oct. to April. Cauterets (21! hrs. ; 111 fr. 90 c). — Sulphate of soda springs, 55° to 145° F. For catarrh of the respiratory organs, skin diseases, uterine affections, scrofula. Contrexeville ^10 hrs. ; 514 fr-). — Effervescent alka- line, slightly ferruginous waters, 55° F. Especially for gravel, biliary and vesical calculi, and catarrh, diabetes, gout, and gouty rheumatism, disorders of the urinary svstem, affec- tions of the uterus, hepatic complaints. May 20 to Sept. Dax (15 hrs. ; 90 fr. 80 c). — ■ Hyperthermal mixed sul- phurous waters, 120° to 145° F. For articular, muscular, or rheumatic affections, gout, neuralgia, and neuroses. Dieppe (4 hrs.; 20 fr, 65 c). — Much-frequented sea- bathing and summer resort. Divorme-les-Bains (15| hrs. ; 81 fr.). — Cold water springs; water exceptionally pure, 44° F. For chronic rheu- matic arthritis, lumbago, pleuro-dynia, gout, sciatica, neu- ralgia, hypochondria, neuroses, gastralgia, bronchial catarrh, dyspepsia, liver and bladder complaints, hemorrhoids, paraly- sis, chronic affections of the spinal cord, scrofula, and female '"Vrders. Eaux-Bonnes (18 hrs. ; 105 fr.). — Sulphurous saline and alkaline waters, 90° F. For angina pectoris, and laryn- gitis, bronchitis, and chronic catarrh, asthma, chronic pleu- ritis, ansemia, lymphatism, and scrofula. June to Sept. Ems (16i hrs.; 71 fr. 15 c). — Saline alkaline and sa- line earthy, 65° to 110° F. These waters act on the lungs and chest, and on nervous diseases. May to Oct. Enghien (20 min. ; 1 fr. 35 c). — Cold sulphurous and lime waters. For scrofula, affections of respiratory organs, herpes, and rheumatism. Etretat (5 hrs. 50 min. ; 28 fr.). — A now much-fre- quented resort for sea-bathins in summer. 466 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, £3vian-les-Bains (13 hrs.; 82 fr. 80 c). — Alkaline waters, and climatic air station. For affections of the uri- nary and digestive organs, the liver and biliary apparatus. Geneva (14 hrs. ; 77 fr.): — Milk cure. "Bathers from Aix-les-Bains come here to rest after their cure. Gorbersdorf (39 hrs. ; 1072 fr.). — Noted for its moun- taiu-air cure, in affections of the respiratory organs. Anae- mia and chlorosis are also treated. Grasse. — Dry and sedative climate ; winter station j Oct. to June. Chest and lung complaints, pharyngitis, nervous affections, anseniia, chlorosis. Hombmrg-les-Bains (1 8 hrs. 40 min. ; 86 fr. 69 c). • — Saline, ferruginous, and ac"* 'kilo us waters. For dyspepsia scrofula, and auaeihia. Hyeres (20 hrs.; 117 ir.). — Winter season, Nov. t« June ; sea-bathing, May to Oct. For diseases of the larynx chest, and lungs, scrofula, diabetes, gout, and rheumatism. Interlaken (18 hrs. ; 78 fr. 65 c). — Climatic station in summer, visited for its beautiful environs. Whey cure. Ischia (59| hrs. ; 288i fr.).' — Alkali -saline waters, 145° F. For uterine affections, rheumatism, diseases of the bones, sores, gout, and paralysis. Spring and autumn. Ischl (23f hrs.; 168 fr. 90 c). — A climatic summer station ; May to Oct. Saline and cold sulphurous waters ; whey cure ; saline, steam, hot and cold brine, and sulphurous baths ; mud, malt, pine-cone, sap, and wave baths ; inhala- tion. Recommended for nervous affections. Karlsbad (32 hrs.; 137 ff.). — Poly metallic waters, 125° to 170° F. For constipation, liver and bilious com- plaints, plethora, obesity, gout, gravel, &c. Kissingen (21 hrs. 40 min. ; 106 fr.). — Cold saline waters, strongly mineralized ; tonic and excitant. Especially suited to abdominal and hemorrhoidal congestions. Kreuznach (13| hrs. ; 72 fr.). — Bromo-iodurated sa- line waters. F orscrofulous -affections, diseases of the ears,. respiratory organs, bones, and joints, all female and sidn disease? ,ad in chronic affections generally. May to Oct. MINEKAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, ETC. 467 Lausanne (151 hrs. ■ 64 fr. 20 c). — Climatic station in summ . r and autumn ; bracing air and grape cure. Loeche-les-Bains (30 his.: 100 fr.). — Various springs ; hot saline earthy waters, 70° to 120° F. For struma, herpes, and skin diseases, scrofula, rheumatism, chronic bronchitis, inveterate syphilis, &c. May 15 to Sept. 30. Luchon (191 hrs. ;' 103* fr.). — Upwards of fifty differ- ent springs, mineralized by hydro-sulphuric acid; also ferru- ginous md alkaline. For rheumatism, scrofula, bionchial and skin diseases, and chronic sores. June to Sept. Iiuxeuil (11| hrs. ; 60 fr. ). — Saline, ferruginous, and magnesiau waters ; eleven springs, 70° to 125° F. They are first excitant, then sedative ; and good in cases of neural- gia, rheumatism, paralysis, gastralgia, &c. Madeira (steamers from Southampton, Bordeaux, or Lis- bon ; journey 5 to 6 days; 500 fr.). — Highly recommended for pulmonary complaints ; climate delightful ; no winter. Mentone (24| hrs.; 139 fr.). —Winter station of first importance, and sea baths. For all forms of chest diseases and rheumatism, cachetic complaints, and debility. Winter season, November to June; sea-bathing, May to Oct. Monaco (24| hrs.; 138 fr.). — Monte Carlo is the favorite winter resort of pleasure-seekers. One of the most sheltered stations on the Riviera. Sea baths ; May to Oct. Mont-Dore(ll hrs.; 64i fr.). — Bicarbonate, arsen- ical, and effervescent ferruginous waters, 107° to 115° F. For all forms of chest diseases and of the respiratory tract ; ophthalmia, rheumatic and nervous affections, disorders of the uterus and skin. June 1 to Oct. 1. Naples (48 hrs. ; 223 fr. 85 c). — The great variety of mineral waters and their therapeutic properties have rendered this delightful city and its environs the most frequented bath- ing station in Italv. Sea baths. Nice (22 hrs.;* 134 fr. 20 c.). — Winter station of first importance. For chronic diseases of the chest, lungs, and respiratory organs : affections of the larynx,, liver complaints, disorders of the spinal cord, diabetes, gout, rheiu. atism. 468 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, paralysis, debility. "Winter season, Nov. to Jnne ; sea-bathing season, May to Oct. ; principal season, Jan. to March. Ostend (14 hrs. ; 38 fr. 40 c.) — Sea baths. Sandy beach and bracing climate. Season, June 1 to Oct. 1. Palermo (664 hrs.; 239i fr.). —Winter station ; sea baths. Season. Nov. to April ; bathing season, May to O^t. Pau (17i hrs.; 101 fr.). — Winter resort of first im- portance. For chest complaints, consumption (inflammatory a'ction and blood-spitting), asthma, bronchitis, rheumatism, neuralgia, and nervous disorders. Nov. 15 to May 31. Pierrefonds (2i hrs. : 12 fr.). — One cold sulphate of lime spring ; one ferruginous and arsenical. Pulmonary catarrh. Plombieres (11 hrs.; 45 fr.). — The springs rangs from 30° to 175° F. For rheumatism, paralysis, herpes,, nervous debility, hysteria. Pougues (5 hrs.; 29 fr. 70 c). — Mixed bicarbonate ferruginous gaseous waters. Affections of the digestive organs. Preste (La) (23J hrs. ; 145 f.). — Very efficacious wa- ters in diseases of the urinary organs, gravel. 90° to 105 9 F. Fuiliia. — No treatment at Piillua itself; the waters are exported, and considered excellent as preservatives and reme- dies against diseases of the digestive organs, constipation, congestions, liver and bladder complaints, nervous disorder*, obesity, diseases of the eye, headache, and gastritis. Pyrmont (18 hrs.; 84 fr. 30c). — Chalybeate springs of importance an I much renown ; effervescent saline waters, brine baths, inhalations. For female complaints, especially ansemia, chlorosis, scrofula, stomachic and intestinal catarrhs, obesity, affections of spleen and liver. Season, May 15 to Oct. 1. Re'coaro (34f hrs.; 139| fr.). — Alkaline, acidulated ferruginous waters, 45° F. For chronic and nervous debil- ity, female diseases, obesity, anaemia, chlorosis, gravel and vesical calculus, congestion of the liver, biliary calculi, hem- orrhoidal complaints, intestinal catarrhs. May to Sept. Rome (49| hrs.; 201 fr. 90 c.). — Winter station of first importance. Foi debility and scrofula in children, ehronic catarrh of rh% bronchi, arnphysema. The climate is MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, ETC. 469 sedative to the nervos and respiratory organs ; out patients should first consult their doctor. Oct. to May. Rorschach. — Climatic statiou in summer; baths in the lake ; Turkish baths , very pure and equable atmosphere. Roy at (9J hrs. ; 51f fr.). — ■ Four springs : mixed alka- line, gaseous, ferruginous, and slightly arsenical and lithic waters, 45° to 95° F. For lymphatic affections, anamria, chlorosis, catarrhal affections, arthritic gout, and skin dis- eases dependent on a gouty diathesis. St. Galmier. — Alkaline table waters, used in France. St Moritz (34 hrs. ; 130 fr. 60 c). — Climatic moun- tain-air statiou. Two ferruginous springs, very cold and very effervescina;. For phthisis. St. Raphael (19.i hrs.; 130 fr. 20 c.). — Winter sta- tion and sea baths ; summer, May 1 to Nov. 1 ; winter, Nov. 1 to June 1. For atonic debility, rachitis, scrofula, lymphatic affections, chest and lung complaints, diabetes, rheumatism, gout, emphysema, ansema, and chlorosis. San Remo. — Winter station of first importance ; la- tent scrofula, chronic bronchial, stomachic, and intestinal catarrh, emphysema, pharyngitis, laryngitis, pleuritic exu- dations, incipient phthisis, rheumatism, Bright's disease 3 diabetes, and general debility. Nov. to May. Saxon (18 hrs.; 73 fr. 55 c). — Bromo-iodurated sa- line waters, 60° F. For syphilis, scrofula, and gout. Scheveiiingen (15i hrs.; 67 fr. 70 c). — Very well frequented summer resort; sea-bathing; beach of fine sands. Schinznach (17 hrs.; 72 fr.). — Sulphurous waters, rich in sulphuretted hydrogen and carbonic acid, u^o in chloride of sodium and salts of lime, 95° F. For chronic skin diseases, eczema, acne, psoriasis, &c, scrofula, chronic catarrh, bronchitis, emphysema, asthma, r 1 ~umatism, gout, syphilis, mercurialism ; May to Oct. Schlangenbad (19 hrs. 10 min. ; 81f fr.). — Nine springs, 75° to 90° F. For menstrual difficulties in delicate women ; general debility in children, women, and ged per- sons; gout, partial paralysis. May 1 to Oft. 1 Schwaibach /20 lus.j zd fr. 5 c). — Chav. neate wa« 470 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, ' tars. For all female complaints; anscmia, chlorosis, nervous affections, debility of muscles and mucous membranes, espe- cially catarrhal affections of the genital organs. May to Oct. Spa (8| brs. ; 44f fr.ji — Highly effervescent ferrugi- nous and acidulous waters. For aneemia, chlorosis, female complaints, hysteria, gastralgia, sterility, difficult menstrua- tion, liver complaints, urinary disorders, cachexia, mucous catarrh of the uterus, &c. May to Oct. Speszia (28 hrs. ; 130 fr. 40 c). — Winter air-cure and summer sea-bathing resort. Teplitz-Sclionau (32 hrs. ; 145J fr.). — Alkali-saline waters, 95° to 125° F. For rheumatism, gout, neuralgia, paralysis, incipient spinal complaints, scrofulous tumors and, sores, fractures, anchylosis, &c. May to Nov. Trouville (6 hrs.; 28 fr. 65 c.).- — Fashionable and much- frequented summer station; sea baths, sandy beach. Uriage (14f hrs. ; 79 fr.). — Saline sulphurous waters, 81° F. For scrofula, chronic affections of the skin, rheuma- tism, nervous affections, diseases of the eyelids, granular pharyngitis, &c. Milk and whey cure. May 15 to Oct. 15. Valencia. — Spanish winter resort ; sea baths, sandy beach. Vals (171 hrs. ; 87 fr.). — Cold alkaline springs, light, medium, and strong ; principally used as table waters. For gravel, liver complaints, and disorders of the spleen. Venice (36 hrs. ; 154 fr.). — Sea baths and winter sta- tion ; sedative climate, somewhat like that of Pau. Vevey fl6^ hrs.; 86| fr.). — Air-cure station, much frequented on account of the mildness of its temperature. Vichy (8^ hrs. ; 45 fr.). — Bicarbonate of soda alkaline springs, 35° to 105° F. For dyspepsia, hepatic disorders, uric acid diathesis, catarrh of the urinary organs, diabetes. Voslau (27? hrs. ; 156 fr. 95 c). — A favorite climatic resort of the Viennese. May 15 to Sept. 30 ; grape cure, Sept, to Oct, "Wiesbaden (15 hrs. ; 86 fr. 45 c). — The waters are excitant, resolvent, reconstituent, and laxative, 30° to 165° F. For scrofula, rheumatism, paralysis, and impaired digestion. Zurich (18 hrs. ; 85 fr. 10 c.i. — Earthy alkaline waters. DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS OF THE UNITED STATES IN THE PRINCIPAL EUROPEAN COUNTRIES "Vienna a Budapest Prague . Trieste . •Carlsbad A ustrla= Hungary . Ambassador, Richard C. Kerens Consul- General, Charles Denby Consul-General, Paul Nash. Consul, Joseph I. Brittain. G-. M. Hotschiek. " Will L. Lowrie. Brussels < i Antwerp (ihent . Liege . Copenhagen gmm . Minister, Charles Page Bryan. Ethelbert Watts. H. W. Diederich. William P. Atwell. " Henry A. Johnson. Denmark Minister, Maurice F. Egan. Consul, Consul-General Consul, " . Vice- Consul, Victor Juhler. France Paris . . Ambassador, Robert Bacon. Sec. of Embassy, A. Bailly-Blanchard. " . Consul-General, Frank if. Mason. 472 DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS Algiers. Consul, Albert W. Robert. Calais . a James B. Milner. Oran Agent, Albert H. Elford. Bordeaux Consul, Alfred K. Moe. Boulogne Agent, William Whitman. Havre . . Consul, James E. Dunning Brest . Agent, A. Pitel. Cherbourg „ i t Cognac Consul, George H. Jackson. Limoges i i Eugene L. Belisle. Lyons . a Carl B. Hurst. Marseilles Consul- Gen., Alphonse Gaulin. Toulon Agent, Francis M. Mansfield. Nantes . Consul, Louis Goldschmidt. Nice a William D. Hunter. Rheims Consul, William Bardel. Rouen . a Charles A. Holder. Dieppe . , . Agent, W. Palmer-Samborne Germany Berlin . . Ambassador, " . Sec. of Embassy, " . Consul- General, Aix-la-Chapelle . Consul, Bremen Brunswick . Cologne Dresden Frankfort, Hamburg Leipsic Mannheim Munich . Nuremberg Stuttgart Consul- General, Consul- General, Consul, Consul-General, Consul, David J. Hill. Irwin B. Laughlin. Alex. M. Thackara. Pendleton King. William T. Fee. Talbot J. Albert. Hiram J. Dunlap. T. St. John Gaffney. Frank D. Hill. Robert P. Skinner. Albert R. Morawetz. Samuel H. Shank. Thomas W. Peters. George N. Ifft. Edward Higgins. OF THE UNITED STATES 47c Great Britain London Ambassador, Whitelaw Reid. cc Consul- General, John L. Griffiths. Liverpool • . Consul, Horace L. Washington Belfast . . a Hunter Sharp. Birmingham it Albert Halstead Kidderminster . Agent, James Morton. Bradford • , Consul, Augustus E. Ingram. Bristol • a Homer M. Byington. Cardiff . • it Lorin A. Lathrop. Cork . • it a Geo. E. Chamberlin. Dublin • 9 Edward L. Adams. Dundee • It a E. H. Dennison. Gibraltar • . Consul, Richard L. Sprague. Glasgow 8 tt John N. McCunn. Hull . • a Walter C. Hamm. Leeds . • a Benjamin F. Chase. Malta . • (i James 0. Laing. Manchester • tt Church Howe. Newcastle - a Horace W. Metcalf. Nottingham * tt Samuel M. Taylor. Plymouth . a Joseph G. Stephens. Sheffield , tt Charles N. Daniels. Southampton tt Albert W. Swalm. Greece Athens . . Minister, George H. Moses. a Consul- General, William H. Gale. Patras . • . Consul, Arthur B. Cooke. Holland The Hague . Minister, Arthur M. Beaupre. Amsterdam 9 Consul, Frank W. Mahin. Rotterdam Consul- General, Soren Listoe. Flushing . Agent, Pieter F. Auer. 474 DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS Italy Rome . . Ambassador, John G. A. Leishman. " . Sec. of Embassy, Charles S. Wilson. " . . . Consul, Chapman Coleman. Florence . . " Leo J. Keena. Genoa . Consnl-General, James A. Smith. Leghorn . . Consul, Ernest A. Man. Milan ... " Charles M. Caughy. Naples . . . " Wm. W. Handley. Palermo . . " Hernando de Soto. Venice . . . " James Vemer Long. Norway Christiania . Minister, Herbert H. D.Peirce. " Consul- General, Henry Bordewich. Bergen . . . Consul, B. M. Rasniusen. Portugal Lisbon . . . Minister, Henry T. Gage. k ' . Consul- General, Louis H. Ayme. Oporto . . . Agent, William H. Stuve. Roumania Bucharest . Minister, John R. Carter. '• Consul-General, Roland B. Harvey. Russia St, Petersburg Ambassador, Wm. W. Rockhill. '• Sec. of Embassy, George P. Wheeler. Consul, Jacob E. Conner. Consul- General, John H. Snodgrass. Consul, Alex. Heingartner. Moscow Batum . Odessa . Riga Vladivostok Warsaw John H. Grout. William F. Doty. Lester Maynard. Thomas E. Heenan. OF THE UNITED STATES 475 Spain Madrid . . Minister, Henry Clay Ide. " . Consul, Charles L. Hoover. Barcelona t Consul-General, Henry H. Morgan. Alicante . . Agent, Henry W. Carey. Seville . . . Consul, Charles S Winans. Malaga . . " Edward J. Norton. Valencia . . " Robert Frazer, Jr. Cadiz . . . Agent, James Sanderson. Jerez de la Frontera Consul, Percival Gassett. Teneriffe . . " ■ Sweden , Minister, Charles H. Graves. Consul-General, . Consul, Stuart J. Fuller, Switzerland . Minister, Laurits S. Swenson. Consul, George Heimrod. " George Gifford. " Francis B. Keene. " Dominic I. Murphy. Consul- General, Robert E. Mansfield. Turkey and Dominions Constantinople Ambassad., " Sec. of Emb., Hoffman Philip. " Consul-Gen., Gabriel Bie Ravndal. Aleppo . . Consul, Jesse B. Jackson. Alexandria . . " David R. Birch. Bagdad . . " Frederick Simpich. Beirut Consul- General, W. Stanley Hollis. Cairo . " " Peter Augustus Jay. Jerusalem . , Consul, William Coffin. Smyrna Consul- General, Ernest L. Harris. Stockholm 4 i Gothenburg. Berne . Basle , Geneva . St. Gall Zurich . A SHORT VOCABULARY IN ENGLISH, FRENCH One. Two. Three. Four. Km Six. Seven. Nine. Ten. Eleven. Twelve. Thirteen. Fourteen. Fifteen. Sixteen. Seventeen. Eighteen. Nineteen. Twenty. Twenty-one. Twenty-two. Twenty-three, etc Thirty. Thirty-one. Thirty-two, etc. Forty. Fifty. Sixty. Seventy. T7n. Deux. Trois. Quatm. Cinq. Six. Sept Huii Neut Dix. Onze. Douze. Treize. Quatorae, Quinze. Seize. Dix-sept. Dix-huit. Dix-neuf. Vingt. Vingt-et-un. Vingt-deux. Vingt-trois, etc Trente. Trente-et-un. Trente-deux, etO. Quarante. Cinquante. Soixante. Soixante-dix. OF WORDS AND PHRASES GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. Ems. Zwei. Drei. Vier. Eiinf. Sechs. Siebeu. A.cht. Neun. Zehn. Elf. Zwolf. Dreizehn. Vierzehn. ."Funfzehn. Sechzehn. Siebzehn. Achtzelm. Neunzehn. Zwanzig. .Ein und zwanzig. Zwei und zwanzig. Drei und zwanzig, etc. Dreissig. Ein und dreissig. £wei und dreissig, etc. Vierzig. sfiinfzig. ?echzig. Siebzig. Uno. Due. Tre. QuattrG. Cinque. Sei. Sette. Otto. Nove 9 Dieci. Undici. Dodici. Tredici. Quattordici. Quindici. Sedici. Diecisette ; diciasette. Dieciotto; diciotto. Diecinove; diciannove, Venti. Vent 5 uno. Venti due. Venti tre, etc. Trenta. Trent' uno. Trenta due, etc Quaranta. Cinquanta. Sessanta. Settanta. 478 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, Eighty. Ninety A hundred. Two hundred, etc. A thousand. Eleven hundred. Twelve hundred. Two thousand, etc. A million. The first. The second. The third. The fourth. The fifth. The sixth. The seventh. The eighth. The ninth. The tenth. The eleventh. The lasi. The kst bat erne. Once. Twice. The half.. The third. The fourth. The fifth. The sixth, etc A. river. A fountain. A waterfall The gate. An hour. Half an hour. Quatre-vingt. Quatre-vingt-dis. Cent. Deux cents, etft. Mille. Onze cents. Douze cents. Deux mille, et* Un million. ■ Le premier. Le second. Le troisieme. Le quatrieme. Le cinquieme. Le sixieme. Le septieme. Le huitierae. Le neuvieme. Le dixieme. Le onzieme. Le dernier. L'avant-dernier, Une fois. Deux fo:*s. La moitie. Dem^ Le tiers. Le quart. Le cinquieme. Le sixieme, etc Une riviere. Une fontaine. Une cascade. La porte. Une heure. Une demi-heure. FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN, 479 Achtzig. Neunzig. Hundert. Zweihundert, etc. Tausend. Elfhundert. Zwolf hundert. Zwei Tausend, etc. Eine Million. Der Erste. Der Zweite. Der Dritte. Der Yierte. Der Eiinfte. Der Sechste. Der Siebente. Der Achte. Der Neunte. Der Zehnte. Der Elfte. Der Letzte. Der Vorletzte. Einmal. Zweimal. Die Halfte. Halb. Das Drittel. Das Viertel. Das Eunftel. Das Sechstel, etc. Ein Eluss. Ein Brunnen. Ein Wasserfall. Das Thor. Eine Stunde. Wne halbe Stunde. Ottanta. Novanta. Cento. Dnecento ; dugento, etc. Mille. Mille cento. Mille dugento. Due mila, etc. Un milione. II primo. II secondo. II terzo. II quarto. II quinto. II sesto. II settimo. 1/ ottavo. II nono. II decimo. L'undecimo; decimo prills L' ultimo. II penultimo. Una volta. Due volte. La meta. Mezzc II terzo. II quarto, II quinto. II sesto, etc. Un fiume. Una fontana ; una fonts* Una cascata. La porta. Un' ora. Una mezz' ora. 480 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH^ A quarter of an hour. Sunday. Monday. Tuesday. Wednesday. Thursday. Friday. Saturday. A holiday The walls of the town. A monument. The tower. A church. The cathedral, minster. A convent. A chapel. A palace. The town-hall. The castle. The theatre. The custom-house. The post-office. The library. The university. The exchange. The bank. A square. A bridge. A shop. A bookseller's shop. A coffee-house. An inn ; a hotel. A dining-house. A furnished room. Breakfast. Un quart d'heura Dimanche. Lundi. Mardi. Mercredi. Jeudi. Vendredi. Samedi. Un jour de fete, Les murs de la viJW Un monument. La tour. Une eglise. La cathedrale. Un couvent. Une chapelle. Un palais. L'hotel de ville. Le chateau. Le theatre. La douane. Le bureau des poster La bibliotheque. L'universite. La bourse. La banque. Uue place. Un pout. Une boutique. Une librairie. Un cafe. Une auberge ; un hoteL Un restaurant. Une chambre garnie. Le deieuner. FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 48i Eine viertel Stunde. Un quarto d' ora. Soimtag. Domenica. Montag. Lunedi. Dienstag Martedi. Mittwoch. Mercoledi. Donnerstag. Giovedi. Freitag. Venerdi. Samstag; Somiabend. Sabbato. Eiu Feiertag; ein Eesttag. Un giorno di festa* Die Stadtmauem. Le mura della citta. Ein Denkmal. Un monumento. Der Thurm. La torre. Eine Kirche. Una chiesa. Das Miinster; der Dom. La cattedrale. Ein Kloster. Un convento. Eine Kapelle. Una cappella. Ein Palast. Un palazzo. Das Batbhaus. La casa della cittk Das Schloss. 11 castello. Das Sehauspielhaus. 11 teatro. Das Zollhaus, Mauthhaus. La dogana. Die Post. L' uffizio delle poste. Die Bibliothek. La biblioteca ; la libreria. Die Universitat L' universita. Die Borse. La borsa. Die Bank. La banca. Ein Platz. Una piazza. Eine Briicke. Un ponte. Ein Kaiiiladen. Una bottega. Ein Buchladen. Una libreria. Ein Kaffeb.aus. Un caffe. Ein Gasthaus ; ein Gasthof. Un' albergo ; una locanda Ein Speisehaus. Un trattore. Ein moblirtes Zimmer. Una stanza mobigliata. Das Eriihstuck. La colazione. 482 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, Luncheon. Soup. Roast-beef. Beef-steak. Yeal Mutton. Pork. Eish. Eggs. Cake. Butter. Cheese. Beer. Ale, ?ort. Sherry. Ices. A railway. Au express train. That is true. I believe so. It is late. I am fatigued. I am thirsty; I am hungry. It is time to set off. That is not true. I did not understand. Who is it ? What are you doing ? What do you want ? Where are you? Where is he ? What is he doing ? Where are you going ? What do you say ? Une collation. La soupe. Du boeuf roti, roast-beef Beef-steak. Du veau. Du mouton. Du cochon. Le poisson. Des oeufs. Le gateau. Le beurre. Le fromage. La biere. L'ale. Le vin d'Oporto. Le vin de Xeres. Les glaces. Un chemin de fei. Un train de vitesse. C'est vrai. Je le crois. II est tard. Je suis fatigue. J'ai soif ; j'ai faim. II est temps de partir. Cela n'est pas vrai. Je n'avais pas compris. Qui est-ce ? Que faites-vous ? Que voulez-vous ? Ou etes-vous ? Ou est-il ? Que fait-il ? Ou allez-vous ? Que dites-vous P FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 483 Erne Zwischen-Mahlzeit. Die Suppe. Ochsenbraten. Beef-steak. Kalbfleisch. Hammelfleisch. Schweinefleisch. Der Fisch. Eier. Der Kuchen, Die Butter. Der Kase. Das Bier. Das Ale. Der Portwein. Xereswein. Das Eis. Eine Eisenbahn. Ein Schnellzug. Das ist walir. Ich glaube es. Es ist spat. Ich bin miide. Icli bin durstig; hungrig. Es ist Zeit abzureisen. Das ist nicht wahr. Ich verstand nicht. Wer ist es ? Was machen Sie ? Was wollen Sie ? Wo sind Sie ? Wo ist er ? Was macht er? Wohin gehen Sie ? Was sagen Sie ? Una colazione. La zuppa. Dell' arrosto di bue. Beef-steak. Del vitello. Del castrato. Del majale. II pesce. Delle uova. La focaccia. II burro, butiro. II formaggio. , La birra. La birra fatta con formento. II vino d' Oporto. II vino di Xeres. I sorbetti ; i gelati. Una strada ferrata. Convoglio celere. E vero. Lo credo. E tardi. Sono stracco. Ho sete ; ho fame, E ora di partire. Cio non e vero. Non aveva capito. Chie? Che cosa fate ? Che cosa volete ? Dove siete ? Dov' e ? Che cosa fa ? Dove andate ? Che cosa dite ? 484 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, Did you understand me ? Is dinner ready ? Is it time to go ?. Where shall we go ? When shall we set out? Are there any letters for me? Come here. Make haste. Tell him to come. Take care. Stop. Not so quick. Speak to him. Do what I tell you. Go away. Bring up the carriage. Call (wake) me at five o'clock. Yesterday. To-day. To-morro*,; Every da). What name do you give to that dish? Bring me some bread. Bring me a glass of water. How much for wine ? What is the name of it ? At what hour shall we ar- rive at X ? M'avez-vous comprieP Le diner est-il pret P Est-il temps de partir P Ou irons-nous ? Quand partirons-nous ? Y a-t-il des lettres pour moi? Venez-ici. Depechez-vous. Dites-lu-i de venir. Prenez garde. Arretez. Pas si vite. Parlez-lui. Paites ce que je vous dis. Allez-vous en. Paites avancer la voiture. Reveillez - moi a cinq heures. Hier. Aujourd'hui. Demain. Tous les jours. Quel nom doDnez-vous I ce mets ? Apportez-moi du pain. Apportez-moi un verre d'eau. Combien le vin ? Comment 1'appelez-vousP A quelle heure arriverons* nous a X ? FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 485 Haben Sie verstanden ? 1st das Mittagsessen fertig ? 1st es Zeit abzureisen ? Woliin sollen wir gehen ? Wann sollen wir abreisen ? Siiid Briet'e fur mich da ? Sagen Kommen Sie hier. Beeilen Sie sich. Sie ihm, er moge kommen. Geben Sie Acht. Halt. Nicht so sclmell. Sprechen Sie mit ilim. Thun Sie, was ich Ihnen sage. Gehen Sie weg. Lassen Sie den Wagen vor- fahren. Wecken Sie mich um fiinf Uhr. Gestern. Heute. Morgen. Alle Tage. Welclien Namen geben Sie diesem Gerichte ? Bringeu Sie mir etwas Brod. Bringen Sie mir ein Glas Wasser. Wie viel fiir den Wein ? Wie heisst er ? Um wie viel Uhr werden wir in X ankommen P Mi avete capito ? h pronto il pranzo ? E egli ora di partire P Dove andremo ? Quando partiremo? Ci sono lettere per me P Venite qua. Spicciatevi. Ditegli che venga. Badate. FermatevL Non cosl presto. Parlategli. Fate quel che vi dico. Andate via. Fate venir avanti la car- rozza. Svegliatemi alle cinque. Ieri. Oggi. t Dimani. Ogni giorno. Come chiamate questa pie« tanza ? Portatemi del pane. Recatemi un bicchier d'ae- qua. Quanto costa il vino ? Come si chiama ? A che ora arriveremo nti aX? 486 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, What railway is that ? Is it more expensive ? At what hour does the steamboat start ? What is the fare ? Have you a printed tariff ? Is the road easy to find ? How far is it to X ? What is the usual charge by the day ? At what hour does it start ? Which is the best hotel at X? Are the charges moderate ? Where is the station for X ? Is this the train to X ? How soon shall we be there ? Stop, coachman ! we wish to get out. When must I be ready ? I wish to see the landlord of the hotel. Where is the water-closet ? Bring me fresh water. I widi *to have breakfast (suppss^ Quel est ce chemin de fer? Est-ce plus cher ? A quelle heure le bateau a vapeur part-il ? Quel est le prix du pas- sage ? Avez-vous un tarif im- prime ? Trouve-t-on facilement le chemin ? Combien y a-t-il d'ici a X? Combien donne-t-on ordi- nairement par jour ? A quelle heure part-elle ? Quel est le meilleur hotel aX? Y a-t-on bon marche ? Oil est Fembarcadere de X? Est-ce la le train pour X 1 Quand arriverons-nous ? Arretez, cocher ! nous vou- lons descendre. A quelle heure faut-il etre pret ? Je desire parler au maitre de l'hotel. Oil sont les lieux d'aisance ? Apportez de l'eau fraiche. Je desirerais dejeuner (sou- per). FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN 487 Was ist das fiir erne Eisen- balm ? Ist es theurer ? Um wie viel Uhr fahrt das Dampfschiff ab ? Wie viel betragt das Passa- giergeld ? Haben Sie einen gedruck- tenTarif? Ist der Weg leicht zu fin- den? Wie weit ist es von hier nach X ? Was bezalilt man gewohn- licli fiir den Tag ? Um wie viel Uhr falirt er ab? Welches ist der beste Gasthof in X ? Ist es billig dort ? Wo ist der Bahnhof nach X? Ist dies der Zug nach X? Wie bald werden wir dort sein? Halt, Kutscher ! Wir wol- len aussteigen. Wann mnss ich fertig sein ? Ich wiinsche denHerrn des Hauses zu sehen. Wo ist der Abtritt ? Bringen sie frisches Was- ser. Ich wunsche das Erahstiick (das Abendessen). Quale e questa strada 2&£- rata ? E piu caro ? A che ora parte il batello a vapore ? Quanto costa il trasporto de' passeggieri ? Avete una lista stampata. E la via facile a trovarsi? Quanto distante e X ... da qui ? Quanto si spende al giorno di solito ? A che ora parte ? Qual e il miglior albergo in X? . Sono i prezzi equi cola ? Dov' e 1' imbarcatoio di X ? E quello il traino per X ? Ci arriveremo presto ? Eermatevi, vetturino, vo- gliamo discendere. A che ora debbo essev pronto ? Yorrei parlare al maestro di casa. Dov' e la ritirata ? Portatemi dell' acqua fresca. Vorrei far colazione (ce» nare). 488 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, Give me something to eat. At what hour do we dine ? Show me your bill of fare and list of wines. Bring me the newspaper. Is he ready ? Which is the way to the post-office ? How mucli is the postage ? Send that letter to the post. Where does a banker live ? I wish to see a medical man. give What fee should I him ? Can I have a warm bath ? Bring me some soap. Order a hackney-coach for me. Make a good fire. How much have I to pay ? Bring me my acconnt. Turn to the right, left, straight forward. How much is charged for admission ? What direction must I take? Can I have dinner ? Donnez-moi quelque chose a manger. A quelle heure dinons- nous ? Montrez-moi la carte. Apportez-moi le journal. Est-il pret ? Pourriez-vous m'indiquer la poste aux lettres ? Combien pour le port ? Faites jeter cette lettre a la poste. Oil demeure un banquier ? Je desire voir un medecin. Combien faut-il lui donner? Pourrais-je avoir un bain chaud ? Apportez-moi du savo»«. Faites -moi venir une voi- ture de louage. Faites un bon feu. Combien dois-je ? Apportez-moi mon compte. Prenez a droite, a gauche, marchez tout droit. Quel est le prix d'entree ? Quelle direction faut-il qug je premie ? Pourrais-je y diner? FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 489 Geben Sie mir efrwas zu essen. Urn wie viel Uhr speisen wir zu Mittag ? 2eigen Sie mir den Speise- zettel. Bringen Sie mir die Zeitung. 1st er bereit ? Welches ist der Weg zur Post? Wie viel betragt das Porto ? Senden Sie diesen Brief zur Post. Wo wohnt em Bauquier ? Ich wiinsche eiueu Arzt zu spreclien. Wie viel Honorar soil ich ilim gebeu? £ann ich eiu warmes Bad bekommen ? feringen Sie mir Seife. Bestellen Sie mir eiue Lohukutsche. Macben Sie eiu gutesFeuer. Wie viel habe ich zu be- zahlen. Bringen Sie mir die Rech- nung. Geh en Sie rechts, links, geradeaus. Wie liocli ist der Eintritts- preis ? Welche Richtung muss ich nehmen ? Kan ich das Mittagsessen haben P Datemi qualche cosa da mangiare ? A che ora si pranza f Mostratemi la lista e la notfe, dei vini. Portatemi la gazzetta. E egli all' ordine ? Potreste indicarmi il cam- mino che va alia posta ? Quanto costa il porto ? Fate portare questa lettera alia posta. Dove abita un banchiere ? Desidererei parlare con un medico. Quanto gli debbo dare P bagno Potrei avere un caldo ? Portatemi un po' cli sapone. Ordinatemi una carrozza da nolo, un fiacre. Pate un buon fuoco. Quanto vi debbo ? Portatemi il mio conto. Si volga a destra, a sinistra, vada diritto. Quanto costa il biglietto d'ingresso ? Qual direzione devo pren« dere ? Potrb avervi il pranzo ? 490 ~ WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, How much ? Have you no better ? It is fine. It is very hot. Does it rain ? It is cold. Send for a cab. Coachman, drive me to the station. Where is the baggage- room ? Please to give me two first- class tickets to X. lere tney are. jVhai do they cost ? At what hour is supper ready. That's very dear. Where are our rooms ? Have any letters arrived for Mr. N., poste restante? Here is my passport. Is breakfast ready ? Give me a drink. What o'clock is it ? What kind of weather is it ? How do you do ? Very well, I thank you. Have you a room to let ? Combien ? N'avez-vous rien de meil. leur? II fait beau. II fait tres chaud. Pleut-il ? \ II fait froid. Faites chercher un fiacre. Cocher, conduisez-moi au chemin de fer. Oil est le bureau de ba- gages ? Deux billets de premiere classe pour X, s'il vous plait. Voila, monsieur. Combien ces billets P A quelle heure soupe-t-on? C'est bien cher. Oil sont nos chambres ? Y a-t-il des lettres poste re- stante pour Monsieur ^ . ? Yoici mon passeport. Le dejeuner est-il servi? Donnez-moi a boire. Quelle heure est-il? Quel temps fait-il ? Comment vous portez-vous ? Tort bien, je vous remereie. Auriez-vous une chambre a me loner ? FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 491 Wie viel ? Haben Sie nichts Bes- seres ? Es ist scbon. Es ist selir heiss. Begnet es ? Es ist kalt. Lassen Sie eine Droschke holen. Kutscher, faliren Sie micli nach der Eisenbahn. Wo ist die Gepaekan- nahme ? Ich bitte um zwei Billete erster Klasse nach X. Hier sind sie. Wie viel kosten sie ? Um wie viel Uhr ist das Abendessen fertig ? Das ist selir tbeuer. Wo sind nnsere Zimmer ? Sind Briefe angekommen fiir Herrn N.? Hier ist mein Pass. Ist das Eruhstiick fertig ? Geben Sie mir zn trinken. Wie viel Uhr ist es ? Wie ist das Wetter ? Wie befinden Sie sich ? Sehr wohl, ich danke Ihnen . Haben Sie ein Zimmer zn vermiethen ? Quanto ? Non ne avete di miglioref Fa bel tempo. Ea caldissimo. Piove ? Ea freddo. Eate cercare un fiacre. Cocchiere, coiidticeiemi alia strada ferrata. Dov 5 e T ufficio deglieffettiP Due biglietti di prima classe per X, se vi piace Ecco, sign:) re. Quanto avete pagato pe,? questi biglietti ? A che ora si cena ? h carissimo. Dove sono le nostre ch mere ? Vi sono lettere per il Sig> nor N. post a restante ? Ecco il mio passaporto. E in tavola la colazione ? Datemi da bere. Che ora e ? Che tempo fa ? Come sta? Benissimo, la ringrazio. Avrebbe una camera d affittare F TRAVELLERS' .TELEGRAPHIC CODE. Before making use of the words in this. Code, it is essential thai intending users should satisfy themselves that the friends with whom thy intend to correspond have in their possession the same edition of Ute work as the one about to be used. This Code is intended as a means of reducing the expense of telegraphing. A single word means a whole sentence. A copy of the Code should be left with the person at home to whom telegrams would naturally be sent (whose name and address should be registered at the local telegraph-office). The blank ciphers are for private phrases, to form a personal Code between two pefsons, who may agree upon certain sen- tences, and write them carefully in their two hooks. This Code has heen made up expressly for The Complete Pocket-Guide. Almond Telegraph to —. Almost Telegraph as soon as possible. Aloes Telegraph your reply. Aloft Telegraph and keep ns well posted. Aloof Inform us by telegraph. Aloud Telegraph us what to do. Air Telegraph if you do not understand our despatch. Ajar Cannot understand your telegram. Please repeat. Akin We cannot understand the word in your tela. gram. Please repeat it. Alack The word you do not understand is — — . Alarm Your despatch received. Agog Answer my telegram of ■ Agony Answer immediately by telegraph. Aided Answer by telegraph at ■ Alter Telegraphed you, but have no reply. Alum Have you received our telegram of — » ? Amaze Have received your telegram of — — . Amber If you wish to communicate with me by telegraph, do so at — — , before — . Amboy Please advise by telegraph. Amen Get despatch at telegraph office. Amical Before despatch received, we had — — . Amidst ....Have you sent us a despatch to-day? Amity If we don't telegraph you by - — , you may con* elude — «? TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 493 Ample If you don't telegraph us by ,we shall Amplify What is reason of delay in reply to our telegram* Amuse Analogy Anatomy.... Ancestor Anchor. ...... Ancient Andiron Anew Angel Angry Animal .... Animate Ankle... ... Annals Annex — ... Annul Appeal Apply Apron •« Baby Your letter of — is receiveu. Back Your letter is received. Bacon Send letters here until the =™=v Badly Send letters to — - until the — — % Backstay Send letters care of—. Badger We write you- — . Baffle We wrote you last mail. Bag ...Will write yon at once. Bail Full information by to-day's mail. Bake Have sent you letter by to-day's man. Balcor 7 Letter was sent. Bald Answer by mail. Ballad No letter to-day ; telegraph contents if imuortaat Balm Have recei ved no letters since . Banjo Forward no letters after . Bandit We forwarded letters to ■— on thts — — — ■ 494 TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE. Banner Your letter of received and agreed to. Banquet Your letter of received and answered. Baron All matter to date lias been forwarded. Bazar Have you any mail matter on hand for us ? Beadle Await our letter. Beast We have advices which, in our oprair>n r may ca^se your return to -. Where will a letter soonest reach you? Beauty We have written you fully on the wt,5f\t Beckon ....What is reason of delay in replying to^w lotto* Bed Beef Befog Beggar Betide Bestow Betray Biceps Birch. ..... Blast „ Behead .... Behold ..o...... Belay ...... Bench ......... Belt ............... Bias , Biped ............ Birthday ...... Bishop Bivalve ....... Blacmeg ...» Blaze TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 495 Dabin We shall return at once by — . Daboose ....We shall return at once by the — — . Cadet We shall sail for home on the — — . Cage We sail - — . Cake When does sail? Calico We think it best to delay departure. Calm ..We think it best to delay departure until — „ if 39 further advice, shall leave on that day for — »»■«. Caloric Cannot leave * — — . Cameo Cannot leave until — =-. „ Camp Cannot leave — -. Will sail by next steamer. Canal Have missed steamer. Canary Have missed steamer ; will sail by next. Candy When does leave ? Cane Steamer sails on . Cannon Sailing postponed until . Canopy Tickets lost; send duplicates. Canteen ...Arrived all well; pleasant passage. Tell—. Canvass ...Arrived all well, but stormy passage. Tell . Caper Arr. all well; pleasant passage. Shall proceed to . Caprice Arr. all well, but stormy passage. Shall proc to . Capsize Arrived all well ; have written. Capsule Arrived all well. Address letters to — — . Captain Has ■ arrived? Caramel ...He arrived on — — - . Caravan ...He has not arrived. Carbon Return at once. v Card Return as soon as possible. Cardinal ...Return at once. Important matters demand your prea* ence here. Careworn. .Things look blue. Unless strong reason to the contrary, should like to have you shorten your trip. Cargo You need not return. Carmine ...You need not return until — — . Catnip You must be here by the . Caxton Impossible to return until——, Cement Arrange for our return. Central Cannot return unless -— — . Chafe If agreeable, will remain ... ■ , . Chair ...When will you return? Chancel ...When do you expect to be here ? Chaos We shall be with you by the — — . Chapter ....Secure passage by this steamer. Charcoal ...We shall come by the train leaving at=—»=* Chariot .W« shall arrive at this station by train due at 1 Charity Charm Cherish...... 496 TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE Cider .. Cimeter Cipher ....... Cireuit Citadel Clack Coil.. Colic Confront ... Dabble Send cable transfer for — , through Dabster Send me new credit for — -— , through Dactyl Remit to me by telegraph through — Daffodil .... Remit by mail: — Dagger £5 Dainty 10 Dale 15 Dally . .;-.... 20 Damper 25 Dance 30 Dandy 35 Dangling 40 Daring 45 Dark 50 Darkey £55 Dashed 60 Daub 65 Daylight 70 Daytime 75 Deacon 80 Deadeye 85 Deaf 90 Debased 95 Debatable ...100 Debility ...£121 Debut 150 Decamp...... 175 Decay 200 Deceit 250 Decide 300 Decimal 400 Declare 500 Decrease ...Remit at once. Deem We have remitted. Deface Have you forwarded remittance? Defeat We cannot remit. Defection. ..We cannot remit more than -. Defence ....We send draft by first mail. Defiance ....Will honor draft. Deform Will honor draft to amount of — — . Defrayed ...Will you lienor my draft? Deftly Will you honor my draft to amount of Delve Please prepay passage per — . Demerit ....Please prepay passage, and telegraph name of steamei. Democrat- • Have prepaid your passage per , sailing on ■ % TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 49? Demon Are without funds ; send money to — — r Dentist Dunce ..- Damask ■=..« Dastard .-..- , Daughter ..- Debris Destiny Deck Denizen Denote - Dense Depose ...... Depress .... Derange .... Device ....... Dilute ........ Disclose .... Distress .... Divan Dock Dome Dowdy Drab Drama Drill Dress Drum Eagle In consequence of illness of — — , we are detained her*, Send letters here until the . Earth — '• — is better, and we hope to leaveon the '■""», East- — — is seriously ill; will advise vou again. 498 TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE Ebonv ——is sick, hut not dangerously. Echo is improving slowly. Edible is very much better ; no need of your returning. Editor is no better. Would come home at once. Educate .... is in a critical condition. Efface ■ is rapidly sinking. Elffort — — died last/night Egress ( lied yesterday. Efapse — — died to-day. Elaborate- Please express our sympathy. Electric We are all well, and there is no need of your returning Elevate Hope all are well. Enchant . . .All are well. Elixir Elongate ... Elope Eluded ...... Empire Emulate ... Endow Engine Gadfly Stay as kmg as you like. Everything is as it should he, and all are well. Gaiter Everything sound,' and doing well. Galaxy We propose extending tour. Gallant We propose extending tour to — -. If ail right, tel& graph. Game When will you he in ? Garden We expect to reach — — by . Garrison ...Will meet you at . Gastric We wish to know where you can be met between no> and . Gazette . . . .Do as you think best. Gender Can 5^011 arrange? Genial We can arrange. Geyser We cannot arrange. Ghost Everything sAtigfactoril-sr .aarrwjreiL TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE 499 Gimlet .......We think it advisable to . Ginger We think well of — — . Girlhood ..We do not think well of-——. Gladden ....Act according to your own judgment. Glancing ...How is business t Glass Business is good. Everything all right. Gleam Anything the matter ? No word from you by mail or wire. Glide Send us word at once. Glimmer ...Nothing the matter; all well. Have written. Glisten Do nothing until you hear from me. Glory Where is — ? Glue Do you know address of——? Goblin Address of party is ■ — -. Goddess ...Address cannot be given. Gondola ...When did you send — i" Goodness ..Have you done so ? Gotham ....Have you done anything? Gothic .......Keep this confidential Gouge ." Gout Govern. Gown... Grab .......... Grade. ....... Gradual ... Grammar.. Greedy ...... Grief .......... Groeer ..... Growl e Grain ...» Gruff ......... Guard .,..*.« Guano e » Tuide INDEX. ABBEVILLE, 166. £bbotsford, 94. Aberdeen, 83. Abergele, 31. Abo, 455. Adelsberg, 258. jEtna, Mount, 386. Aghadoe, 8. Agram, 258. Ahrweiler, 225. Ailsa Craig, 59. Airolo, 283. Aix-la-Chapelle, 221, 203. Aix-les-Bains, 440. Alatri, 371. Albacete, 414. Albano, 366. Alessandria, 305. Alfort, 196. Algeciras, 421. Alicante, 414. Alio way, 58. Alpnach. 284. Althorp Park, 125. Altorf, 282. Amalfi, 383. Ambleside, 45, 44. Amboise, 198. Ambras, 265. Amiens, 166. Amsteg, 282. Amsterdam, 215. Anagni, 371. Anagno, Lake, 377. Ancona, 328. Andermatt, 283. Andernach, 226. Anglesea, 27. Angouleme, 439. Annan, 56. Annesley, 108. Antemnse, 366. Antibes, 399. Antwerp, 211. Aosta, 295. Apennines, 328. Appian Way, 363. Aqua Acetosa, 365. Aquino, 371. Aranjuez, 426. Arbroath, 83. Arcachon, 439. Ardchattan, 74. Ardrishaig, 79. Arenfels, 225. Arezzo, 338. Ariccia, 367. Aries, 401. Arnhem, 217. Arona, 299, 298. Arras, 166. Ashton, 104. Asnieres, 165. Assisi, 339. Assmannshausen, 232. Athlone, 22. Auburn, 22. Augsburg, 266. Avernus, Lake, 378. Avignon, 402. Avoca, Vale of, 20. Awe, Loch, 78. Ayr, 58. BacharacHj 231. Badajos, 431 Baden-Baden, 272. Bagg.-ige, xii. ^aia, 378. Baireuth, 270. Balearic Isles, 409, Ballater, 84. Balmoral, 84. Balquhidder, 73. Bamberg, 270. Banavie, 76. Bangor, 28, 26. Bannockburn, 81. Barbizon, 197. Barcelona, 406. Basle, 274. Bassenthwaite, 53. Bath, 157. Battle Abbey, 155. Bayonne, 433. Baziasch, 256. Bedford, 125. Belcaro, 339. Belfast, 25. Belgium, 201. Belgrade, 256. Bellaggio, 300. Bellinzona, 279. Belvoir Castle, 107. Ben Ledi, 72, 73. Ben Lomond, 70. Ben Venue, 71, 72. Bergamo, 307. Bergen, 448. Berlin, 241. Bernardino Pass, 279. Berne, 287. Bernese Oberland,286i Bernina Pass, 280. Besangon, 404. Beverley, 102. Biarritz, 433. Bienne, 291. Bingren. 232. INDEX 501 Birmingham, xr/, 124. Black Forest, 272, 273. Blarney Castle, 4. Blois, 197. Blue Grotto, 382. Bologna, 322. Bonn, 222. Boppard, 230. Bordeaux, 437. Bordighera, 396. Borromean Isles, 299. Boston, 106. Bothwell, 68. Bougival, 194. Boulogne, 161. Bowness, 45. Bozen, 265. Bracciano, 370. Bradford, 103. Braemar, 84. Bray, 20. Bremen, 239. Brenner Pass, 265. Brescia, 307, 305. Brest, 168. Brieg, 296. Bnenz, 284. Brighton, 155. Brindisi, 328 Bristol, 158. Britannia Bridge, 27. Broek, 217. Biuck, 258. Bruges, 207. Briinig Pass, 284. Brunswick, 238. Brussels, 204. Bucharest, 257- Budapest, 255. Bulgaria, 257. Burgos, 432. Bute, 79. Buttermerej ^2. Cadetjabbia, 301. Cadiz, 421. Caen, 167. Caernarvon, 29; Calais, 161. Caledonian Canal 76. Callander, 73. Camaldoli, 337. Cambridge, 123. Campagna, The, 364. Cannes, 398. Cannstadt, 267. Canossa, 325. Canterbury, 160. Capellen, 229. Capri, 382. Capua, 371. Cardiff, 158. Cardross, 67, 69. Carlisle, 55. Carlsbad, 249. Carlsruhe, 272. Carrara, 892. Caserta, 381. Cashel, 14. Cassel, 238. Cassino, 371. Castel, 235. Castellamare, 381. Castel Gandolfo, 387. Catania, 385. Caub, 231. Cauterets, 437. Cawdor Castle, 78. Certosa, La, 304, 337. Cesena, 327. Cette, 406. Chalons, 200. Chambord, 198. Cbamomiix, 293, Chantilly, 195. Charleroi, 202. Charlottenburg, 245. Chartres, 168. Chateau Thierry, 199. Chatham, 160. Chatillon, 197- Chatsworth, 1L9. Chaumont, 198. Chaudfontaine,203. Chenonceaux, 198. Cherbourg, 167. Chester, 32. Chiavenna, 279. Chiemsee, 261. Chillon, 291. Chioggia. 320. Chiswick, 154. Cliristiania, 445. Civita. Vecchia, 389. Clarens, 2'vl. Cloyne, 5. Cobience, 227. Coburg, 240. Coimbra, 435. Coire, 278. Colchester, 154. Col de Balme, 292. Cole rain e, 24. Colico, 301, 279. Cologne, 218. Como, Lake, 300. Compiegne, 196. Coniston Lake, 46. Connemara, 23. Constance, 275. Consuls, xviii. Conway, 29. Copenhagen, 441. Coppet, 290. Cora Linn, 68. Cordova, 415. Cork, 3. Cornice Road, 395. Correggio, 325. Cortona, 338. Coventry, 112. Cracow, 257. Cremona, 310, 30&. Cronstadt, 456. Culloden, 78. Cumse, 378. Darmstadt, 5J7i. Delft, 213. Denmark, 44L Derby, 108. Derbyshire, Peak o^ 108. Derwentwater, 52. Dieppe, 161. Dijon, 198. Dinan. 168. Disscitis, 279. Domo d' Ossola, 29*, Douai, 201. Dover, 161. Drac''enfela,223. 502 INDEX. Dresden, 246. Drogheda, 20. Drontheim, 447. Dryburgh Abbey, 94. Dublin, 14. Dulwich, 153. Dumbarton, 66. Dumfries, 56. Dunblane, 81. Dundee, 82. Dunkeld, 82. Dunottar Castle, 83. Durham, 95. Diisseldorf, 218. Eastbouene, 155. Eaton Hall, 35. Eaux-Bonnes, 437. Eaux-Chaudes, 437. Ecclefechan, 55. Eddystone Light, 159. Edenhall, 54. Edinburgh, 85. Ehrenbreitstein, 228. Ehrenfels, 232. Eisenach, 239. Elsinore, 444. Elstow, 125. Eltville, 234. Ely, 123. Emmerich, 217, 218- Ems, 228. Engadine, 279. Enghien, 195. England, 32. Erfurt, 240. Ermenonville, 196. Escurial, 429. Esthwaite, 44. Eton, 151. Etretat, 162. Evora, 436. Evreux, 167. E v eter, 159. Faenza, 327. Faro, 436. F6camp, 162. Ferentmo, 371. Ferney, 289. Ferrara, 321 . Fiesole, 337. Florence, 329. Fliielen, 282. Folkestone, 160. Foligno, 339. Fontainebleau, 196. Forli, 327. Fort Augustus, 77. Fountains Abbey, 97. France, Northern, 161. France, Southern, 397. Frankfort, 236. Frascati, 368. Freiburg, 273, 288. Frejus, 399. Frosinone, 371. Frutigen, 287. Fulda, 239. Furca Pass, 283. Furness Abbey, 42. Furstenberg, 232. Galway, 23. Garda, Lake of, 301, 3031 Gastein, 260. Gemmi Pass, 287. Geneva, 289. Genoa, 393. Genzano, 367. Germany, 218. Gerona, 406. Ghent, 209. Giants' Causeway, 24. Gibraltar, 420. Giessbach, 285. Girgenti, 389. Giurgevo, 257. Glamis Castle, 83. Glasgow, 60. Glastonbury, 153. Glen Fruin, 67. Gorner Grat, 295. Gotha, 240. Gothenburg, 445. Granada, 417- Granville, 167. Grasmere, 50. Gratz, 258. Greenock, 67, 80. Greenwich, 153. Grimsel Pass, 283. Grindelwald, 285.. Grotta Ferrata, 388, Haaklem, 215, Hague, The, £13. Hal, 201. Halle, 241. Hamburg, 239, 441. Hamilton, 67. Hammerfest, 448. Hammerstein, 226. Hampstead, 153. Hampton Court, 152- Hanover, 238. Harrogate, 98. Harrow, 154. Hastings, 155. Havre, 162. Haworth, 103. Heidelberg, 270. Helensburgh, 87. Helvellyn, 51. Herculaneum, S79. Highgate, 153. Highlands, Scottisbi 68. Holland, 212. Holvhead, 27. Homburg, 237. Hotels, xx. Hull, 102. Hyeres, 399. Innsbhuck, 264. Interlaken, 285. Inverary, 70. Inverness, 78. lnversnaid, 71, 69. Ion a, 76. Ireland, 1, 26. Iron Gates, 257. trongray, 57. Irun, 433. Ischia, 382. Ischl, 260. Iseo, 301. Isola Bella, 299. Italy, 297. Jerez, 422. Johannisb erg, 233. Julier Pass, 279. Jungfrau, 286. INDEX. 503 Kaa^ersteg, 287. Kasan Defile, 257. Katrine, Loch, 71. Kelh»im, 269. Kenilworth, 114. Keswick, 52. 53. Kew, 152. ' Kidderminster, 111. Kiilarney, 6, 10. Kingstown, 21. Komorn, 255. Konigsstuhl, 230, 271. Kouigswinter, 223. Konigstein, 248. Kreuznach, 233. Laach, 226. Laeken, 206. Lahneck, 230. Laibach, 258. Lanark, 68. Lausanne, 288, 199. Leamington, 121. Lecco s 301. Leeds. i02. Le^hor-,, 389. Leipsic, £40. Leith, 91. Lemberg, 257. Lerida, 411. Lerins, Isles of, 399. Letter of Credit, ix. Leuk, Baths of, 287, 296. Leyden, 215. Li£ge, 202. Lille, 202. Limerick, 13. Lincoln, 105. Linkoping, 44i. Linlithgow, 82. Linz, 225, 259. Lisbon, 434. Msieux, 167- Liverpool, 36, viii. Llandaff, 158. Locarno, 299_ lodore, 52. Lomond, Locn, 6?. i.,ondoi,, :28. Londonderry, s«j. Lorch, 232. Lou vain, 207. Lucca, 392. Lucerne, 280. Lugano, 300, 279. Luino, 299. Lund, 444. Lurlei, 231. Luxembourg, 204. Lyons, 403. Macon, 199. Madrid, 426. Magdeburg, 238. Maggiore, Lake, 298. Majorca, 409. Malaga, 419. Malamocco, 320. Malmaison, 194. . Malmo, 444. Manchester, 104. Mannbeim, 271. Mantes, 165. Mantua, 310. Marburg, 238. Margate, 154. Marino, 368. Marksburg, 230. Marly, 195. Marseilles, 399, 297. Martigny, 292. Matterhorn, 295. Mauchline, 57. Mayence, 234. Maynooth, 22. Meaux, 199. Mecblin, 210. Meiringen, 284. Melrose, 93. Menaggio, 300. Menai Bridge, 28. Men tone, 397. Mer de Glace, 293. Messina, 384. Metz, 233. Meudon, 197. Milan, 302. Minorca, 409. Miramar, 259. Modena, 324, 310. Monaco 397, Money, xv. Monr'eale, 388. Mons, 201. Monserrat, 408. Mont Blanc, 293. Monte Cenis, 297. Monte Rosa, 295. Montgomerie, 58. Montmorency, 195. Montpellier, 405. Montrose, 83. Morat, Lake, 291. Moscow, 460. Moselle River, 228. Mouse Tower, 232. Mt. St. Michel, 167. Munich, 261, 310, 249. Murano, 320. Miirren, 286. Nairn, 78. Namur, 202. Nancy, 200. Naples, 370. Narbonne, 406. Nemi, Lake, 367. Neucha-tel, 291. Neuwied, 226. Newark, 107, Newcastle, 95. Newmarket, 124. Nice, 398. Niederwald, 233. Niederwerth, 227. Nijni-Novgorod, 462. Nimes, 401. Nisida, 377. Nonnenwerth, 224. Northampton, 125. Norway, 445, Nottingham, 107. No vara, 306. Nuremberg, 267. Oban, 74, 78. Ober-Ammergau, 264, Oberwesel, 231. Ocean Voyage, viu Odessa, 462. Oporto, 436. Orange, 403. Orleans, 197. 504 INDE] Orta, 301. Orvieto, 338 Ostend, 207 Ostia, 370. Otranto, 328. Oxford, 125. Padua, 311. Psestum, 383. Palermo, 387. Palestrina, 369. Palma, 409. Paris, 168 Parma, 324. Passports, ix. Pau, 436. Pavia, 305. Perpignan, 406. Perth, 82. Perugia, 338. Pesaro, 327. Peschiera, 301, 308. Pesth, 255. Peterborough, 121, 106. Pfalz, 231. Piacenza, 310. 305. Pierrefonds, 196. Pillnitz, 247- Pisa, 390. Pistoja, 328, Plymouth, 159. Poitiers, 440. Pompeii, 379. Poutresina, 280. Port Mahon, 409. Portsmouth, 156. Portugal, 434. Posilippo, 376. Potsdam, 245. Pozzuoli, 377- Prague, 248. Presburg, 255. Procida, 382, 383. QtJEENSTCCWN, 2. Ragatz, 277. Railways, xvi. Ramsgate, 154. Rapperschwv!, 277. Ratisbou, 269. Ravelin, 383. Raveuua, 325. Reggio, 325, 384. Remagen, 225. Renfrew, 66. Rheims, 199. Rheineck, 226. Rheinfels 230. Rheinstein, 232. Rhense, 230. Rhine. 222. Rhone Glacier, 283. Richmond, 152. Righi, The, 281. Rimini, 327. Ripon, 97. Riva, 302. Rochester, 159. Rolaudseck, 224. Rome, 340. Roslin, 92. Rothesay, 79. Rotterdam, 212. Rouhaix, 202. Rouen, 163. Roveredo, 265, 310. Rovigo, 321. Rowardennan, 69. Rudesheim, 233. Rueil, 194. Rugby, 12L Russia, 455. Rustchuck, 257. Rvdal,49, Ryde, 157. Sagx t ntum, 412. St. Albans, 154. St. Andrews, 83. St. Bernard Pass 294. St. Clond, 193. St. Denis, 195. St. Germain, 194. St. Goar, 230. St. Gothard Pass, 280, 279 St. Malo, 168. St. Maurice, 292. St. Moritz, 280. St. Petersburg 456. St. Quentin, 201. St. Theodnle Pass, 295. Salernu, 383. Salisbury, 156. Salzburg, 259. Salzkammergut, 260, San Marino, 327. San Remo, 395. San Sebastian, 433. Santarem, 434. Saragossa, 410. Savona, 395. Saxon Switzerland, 247- Saxon-les-Bains, 295. Sceaux, 197. Schaffhauseu, 275. Scheveningen, 214. Schiedam, 213. Schonbrunn, 254. Scotland, 56. Sebastopol, 462. Sedan, 200. Semmering Pass, 2SS, 298. Servia, 256. Seville, 422. Sevres, 194. Sheffield, 105. Sicily, 384. Siena, 339. Simplon Pass, 295, 294, Sion, 295. Solfatara, 377. Solferino, 308. Sorrento, 381. Southampton, 156. Spa, 203. Spnin, 405. Spezia, La, 393, 325. Spires, 271. Spleen Pass, 277. Staffa, 75. Stahleck, 231. ^taubbach, 286. Steamships, x. Stirling, 80. Stockholm, 449. Stolzenfels, 229. Strasbourg, 272, 200. Stratford-on- Avon, 118* Stuttgart, 266. Subiaco, 369. INDEX. 505 dvreden, 449. Switzerland, 274. Syracuse, 386. Taormina, 385. Taranto, 328. Tarascon, 403. Tarragona, 412. Teplitz, 249. Terni, 339. Thrasymene Lake, 338. Throndhjera, 417. Thun, Lake of, 286. Tivoli, 368. Toledo, 430. Torcello, 321. Torquay. 159 Tortosa, 412. Toulon, 399 Toulouse, 439, Tours, 198. Trent, 265, 310, Treves, 229. Trouvillr, 162. Trieste, 321, 258. Trossachs, The, 71. Tunbriflge "Wells, 155. Turin, 305. Tusculum, 368. Tyrol, 264. Ullswater, 48. Ulm, 266. Upsala, 454. Urbino, 328. Utrecht, 217. Valence, 403. Valencia, 412. Valenciennes, 201. Valladolid, 432. Vallombrosa, 337. Vaurluse, 403. Velletri, 371. Venice, 313, 307. Verona, 308, 307 Versailles, 191. Vesuvius, 379. Vevav, 291. Via Mala, 273. Viraiza, 311. Vichy, 440. Vienna, 250. Vienne, 403. Vincennes, 181. Wales, 27. Walhalla, The, 269. Wallenstadt, Lake, 277, Wartburg, 239. Warwick, 116. Waterloo, 206. Weimar, 240. Wells, 158. Wiesbaden, 237, 234. Wight, Isle of, 157. Wifdbad Gastein, 260. Wiihelmshohe, 238. Winchester, 156. Windermere, 44, 45. Windsor, 151. Worcester, 112. Wornas, 271. Whrzburg, 270. York, 98. Yverdon, 291. Zaandam, 217. Zermatt. 295. Zurich, 276, 2^* MEMORANDA. MEMORANDA, ~i^« MEMORANDA. 'K 716 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 021 947 791 Hi IBB HHH| HHTCjE