Book J / 7^ g 3^ PIOEON COVE, CAI'E ANN. I^OOKS AND CORNERS OF THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. By SAMUEL ADAMS DRAKE, AUTiiOK or 'OLD LANDMARliS OF BOSTON," "HISTORIC FIELDS AND MANSIONS OF MIDDLESEX,' &o. WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. NEW YORK: HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE. 18 7(). Kntered according to Act of Congress, in the year 187."J, by HARPER & BROTHERS, In tiie Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Wasliingtou. By trusfer U. S, Soldiers Home lib. MA^ 2 3 I99fr r^^9. Snscribeb bn Ipcrmission, AND WITH SENTIMENTS OF HIGH RESPECT, HENRY WADSWORTH LONGFELLOW. -^ wm&&mim^^^Mmi CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. NEW ENGLAND OF THE ANCIENTS. Norumbega Eiver and City. — Early Discoverers, and Maps of New England. — Mode of taking Possession of new Countries. — Cruel Usage of Intruders by the English. — Penobscot Bay. — Character of first Emigrants to New England. — Is Friday unlucky? Page 17 CHAPTER 11. MOUNT DESERT ISLAND. About Islands. — Champlain's Discovery. — Mount Desert Range. — Somesville, and the Neighbor- hood.— Colony of Madame De Guercheville.— Descent of Sir S. Argall. — Treastu'e-trove.— Shell-heaps.— South-west Harbor.— The natural Sea-wall.— Islands off Somes's Sound 27 CHAPTER IH. CHRISTMAS ON MOUNT DESERT. Excursion to Bar Harbor. — Green Mountain. — Eagle Lake. — Island Nomenclature. — Porcupine Islands.— Short Jaunts by the Shore. — Schooner Head. — Spouting Caves. — Sea Aquaria. — Audubon and Agassiz. — David Wasgatt Clark. — F. E. Church and the Artists. — Great Head. — Baye Fran9oise. — Mount Desert Rock. — Value of natural Sea-marks. — Newport Mount- ain, and the Way to Otter Creek.— The Islesmen.— North-east Harbor.— The Ovens.— The Gregoires. — Henrietta d'Orleans. — Yankee Curiosity 40 CHAPTER IV. CASTINE. Pentagoet. — A Fog in Penobscot Bay. — Rockland. — The Muscongus Grant. — Colonial Society. — Generals Knox and Lincoln. — Camden Hills. — Belfast and the River Penobscot. — Biigadier's Island. — Disappearance of the Salmon. — Approach to Castine. — Fort George. — Penobscot Expedition. — Sir John Moore. — Capture of General Wadsworth. — His remarkable Escape. — Rochambeau's Proposal. — La Peyrouse 58 CHAPTER V. CASTINE — continued. Old Fort Pentagoet.— Steplien Grindle's Windfall.— Cob-money. — The Pilgrims at Penobscot.— Isaac de Razilly. — D'Aulnay Charnisay. — La Tour. — Descent of Sedgwick and Leverett. — Capture of Pentagoet, and Imprisonment of Chambly. — Colbert. — Baron Castin. — The younger 10 CONTENTS. Castin kidnnped.— Capuchins and Jesuits. — Intrigues of De Maintenon and Fere Lachaise.— Burial-ground of Castine.— About tlie Lobster. — Where is Down East? Page 73 CHAPTER VI. PEMAQUID POINT. New Harbor. — Wayside Manners. — British Kepulse at New Harbor. — Porgee Factory. — Process of converting the Fish into Oil. — Habits of the Mackerel. — Weymouth's Visit to Pemaquid. — Champlain again. — Popliam Colony. — Cotton Mather on new Settlements. — English vs. French Endurance. — L'Ordre de Bon Temps. — Samoset. — Fort Frederick. — Resume of the English Settlement and Forts. — John Nelson. — Capture of Fort William Henry. — D'Iberville, the knowing One. — Colonel Dunbar at Pemaquid. — Shell-heaps of Damariscotta. — Disappear- ance of the native Oyster in New England 87 CHAPTER VII. MONHEGAN ISLAND. Scenes on a Penobscot Steamer. — The Islanders. — Weymouth's Anchorage. — Monhegan de- scribed. — Combat between the Enterprise and Boxer, — Lieutenant Burrows 102 CHAPTER Vni. FROM WELLS TO OLD YORK. Wells. — John Wheelwright. — George Burroughs. — On the Beach. — Shiftings of the Sands. — What they produce. — Ingenuity of the Crow. — The Beach as a High-road. — Popular Super- stitions. — Ogunquit. — Bald Head Cliff. — Wreck of the Isidore. — Kennebunkport. — Cape Ned- dock. — The Nubble. — Captains Gosnold and Pring. — Moon-light on the Beach 109 CHAPTER IX. AGAMENTICUS, THE ANCIENT CITY. Mount Agamenticus. — Basque Fishermen. — Sassafras. — The Long Sands. — Sea-weed and Shell- fish. — Foot -prints. — Old York Annals. — Sir Ferdinando Gorges. — York Meeting-house. — Handkerchief Moody. — Parson Moody. — David Sewall.— Old Jail. — Garrison Houses, Scot- land Parish 123 CHAPTER X. AT KITTERY POINT, MAINE. York Bridge. — Poor Sally Cutts. — Fort M'Clary. — Sir William Pepperell. — Louisbnrg and Fontenoy. — Gerrish's Island. — Francis Champernowne. — Islands belonging to Kittery. — John Langdon. — Jacob Sheaffe. — Washington at Kittery 141 CHAPTER XI. THE ISLES OF SHOALS. De Monts sees them. — Smith's and Levett's Account. — Cod-fishery in the sixteenth Century. — Sail down the Piscataqua. — The Isles. — Derivation of the Name. ^ — Jeffrey's Ledge. — Star Island. — Little Meeting-house. — Character of the Islesmen. — Island Grave-yards. — Betty CONTENTS. 11 Moody's Hole.— Natural Gorges.— Under the Cliffs. — Death of Miss Underhili.— Story of lier Life. — Boon Island. — Wreck of the Nottingham. — Fish and Fishermen Page 153 CHAPTER XIT. THE ISLES OF SHOALS — Continued. P^xcnrsion to Smutty Nose. — Piracy in New England Waters. — Blackbeard. — Thomas Morton's Banishment. — Religious Liberty t's. License. — Custom of the May-pole. — Samuel Haley. — ' Spanish Wreck on Smutty Nose.— Graves of the Unknown.— Tenible Tragedy on the Island. — Appledore.— Its ancient Settlement. — Smith's Cairn. — Duck Island. — Londoner's.— Thomas B. Laighton.— Mrs. Thaxter.— Light-iiouses in 1793. — White Island.— Story of a Wreck. 175 CHAPTER xnr. NEWCASTLE AND NEIGHBOKHOOD, The Way to the Island. — The Pool.— Ancient Ships. — Old House. — Town Charter and Records. — Influence of the Navy-yard. — Fort Constitution. — Little Harbor. — Captain John Mason. — — The Wentworth House.— The Portraits.— The Governors Wentworth and their Wives.— Baron Steuben 1^*' CHAPTER XIV. SALEM VILLAGE, AND '92. The Witch-ground. — Antiquity of Witciicraft. — First Case in New England.— Curiosities of Witch- craft. — Rebecca Nurse. — Beginning of Terrorism at Salem Village. — Humors of the Appari- tions.— General Putnam's Birthplace. — W^hat may be seen in Dan vers 208 CHAPTER XV. A WALK TO WITCH HILL. Salem in 1002.— Birthplace of Hawthorne.— Old Witch House.— William Stoughton, Governor. — Witch Hill— A Leaf from History 220 CHAPTER XVI. MARBLEHEAD. The Rock of Marbleliead. — The Harbor and Neck. — Chat witli the Light-keeper. — Decline of the Fisheries. — Fishery in the olden Time. — Early Annals of Marblehead. — Walks about the Town. — Crooked Lanes and antique Houses. — The Water-side. — The Fishermen. — How the Town looked in the Past. — Plain-spoken Clergymen and lawless Parishioners. — Anecdotes. — Jeremiah Lee and his Mansion. — The Town-house. — Chief-justice Story. — St. Michael's Church. — Elbridge Gerry. — The old Ironsides of the Sea. — General John Glover.— Flood Ireson's, Oakum Bay. — Fort Sewall. — Escape of the Constitution Frigate. — Duel of the Chesa- peake and Shannon. — Old Burial-ground. — The Grave-digger. — Perils of the Fishery 228 CHAPTER XVII. PLYMOUTH. At the American Mticca. — Court Street. — Pilgrim Hall and Pilgrim Memorials. — Sargent's Pic- ture of the "Landing." — Relics of the Mui/^fioiver.- — First Duel in New England. — Old Colony 12 CONTENTS. Seal. — The "Compact." — First Execution in Pij-mouth. — Old "Body of Laws." — Pilgrim Chronicles. — View from Burial Hill. — The Harbor. — Names of Plymouth. — Plymouth, En- gland. — Lord Nelson's Generosity.— Plymouth the temporary Choice of the Pilgrims. — The Indian Plague. — Indian Superstition. — Who was first at Plymouth ? — De Monts and Cham- plain.— Champlain's Voyages in New England. — French Pilgrims make the first Landing. — Wiiy the Natives were hostile to the Pilgrims of 1G20. — Confusion among old Writers about Plymouth. — Among the Tombstones of Burial Hill. — The Pilgrims' Church-fortress. — What a Dutchman saw here in 1627. — Military Procession to Meeting. — Ancient Church Customs. — Pin-itans, Separatists, and Brownists. — Flight and Political Ostracism of the Pilgrims. — Their form of Worship. — First Church of Salem. — Plymouth founded on a Principle Page 2G1 CHAPTER XVIII. PLYMOUTH, Clark's island, and duxbury. Let us walk in Leyden Street. — The way Plymouth was built. — Governor Bradford's Corner. — Fragments of Family History. — How Marriage became a civil Act. — The Common-house. — John Oldham's Punishment. — The Allyne House. — James Otis and his Sister Mercy. — James Warren. — Cole's Hill, and its obliterated Graves. — Plymouth Kock. — True Date of the " Land- ing." — Christmas in Plymouth, and Bradford's Joke. — Pilgrim Toleration. — Samoset surprises Plymouth. — The Entry of Massasoit. — First American Congress. — To Clark's Island. — Wat- son's House. — Election Rock. — The Party of Discovery. — Duxbury. — Captains Hill and Miles Standish. — John Alden. — "Why don't you speak for yourself?" — Historical Iconoclasts. — Celebrities of Duxbury. — Winslow and Acadia. — Colonel Church. — The Dartmouth In- dians ; 283 CHAPTER XIX. PROVINCETOWN. Cape Cod a Terra incognita. — Appearance of its Surfiice. — Historical Fragments. — The Pilgrims' first Landing. — New England Washing-day. — De Poutrincourt's Fight with Natives. — Province- town described. — Cape Names. — Portuguese Colony. — Cod and Mackerel Fishery. — Cod-fish Aristocracy. — Matt Prior and Lent. — Beginning of Whaling. — Mad Montague. — The Desert. — Cranberry Culture. — The moving Sand-hills. — Disappearance of ancient Forests. — The Beach. — Race Point. — Huts of Refuge. — Ice Blockade of ISTi-'Tf). — Wreck of the Giovanni. — Phys- ical Aspects of the Cape Shores. — Old Wreck at Orleans 304 CHAPTER XX. NANTUCKET. The old Voyagers again. — Derivation of the Name of Nantucket. — Sail from Wood's Hole to the Island. — Vineyard Sound. — Walks in Nantucket Streets. — Whales, Ships, and Whaling. — Nantucket in the Revolution. — Cruising for Whales. — The Camels. — ^Nantucket Sailors. — Loss of Ship Essex. — Town-crier. — Island History. — Quaker Sailors. — Thomas Mayhew. — Spermaceti. — Macy, Folger, Admiral Sir Isaac Coftin 324 CHAPTER XXI. NANTUCKET — contimied. T.iking Blackfish. — Blue-fishing at the Opening. — Walk to Coatue. — The Scallop-shell. — Struc- ture of the Island. — Indian Legends. — Shepherd Life. — Absolutism of Indian Sagamores. — CONTENTS. 1 3 Wasting of the Shores of the Island. — Siasconset. — Nantucket Carts. — Fishing-stages. — The Great South Shoal— Sankoty Light.— Surfside Page 34 CHAPTER XXIII. PICTURESQUE NEWPORT. The Cliff Walk. — Newport Cottages and Cottage Life.— Charlotte Cushman.— Fort Day and Fort Adams. — Bernard, the Engineer. — Dumplings Fort. — Canonicut. — Hessians. — Newport Drives. — The Beaches. — Purgatory. — Dean Berkeley 37:'. CHAPTER XXIV. THE FRENCH AT NEWPORT. Behavior of the Troops.— Monarchy aiding Democracy. — D'Estaing.—Jourdan.— French Camps. — Rochambeau, De Ternay, De Noailles. — Efforts of England to break the Alliance. — Fred- erick's Remark. — Malraesbury and Potemkin. — Lord North and Yorktown.— George III.— Biron, Due de Lauzun. — Chastellux, De Castries, Viomc'nil, Lameth, Dumas, La Peyrouse, Berthier, and Deu.x-Ponts. — The Regiment Auvergne. — Latour D'Auvergne.— French Diplo- macy 38() CHAPTER XXV. NEWPORT CEMETERIES. Rhode Island Cemetery. — Curious Inscriptions. — William Ellery. — Oliver Hazard Perry. — The Quakers. — George Fox. — Quaker Persecution. — Other Grave-yards. — Lee and the Rhode Isl- and Tories. — Coddington and Gorton. — John Coggeshall. — Tiinity Church-yard. — Dr. Samuel Hopkins.— Gilbert Stuart 398 CHAPTER XXVI. TO MOUNT HOPE, AND BEYOND, Walk up the Island. — "Tonomy" Hill. — The Malbones. — Capture of General Prescott. — Talbot's Exploit. — Ancient Stages. — Windmills. — About Fish.— Lawton's Valley. — Battle of 1778. — Island History. — Mount Hope. — Philip's Death. — Dighton Rock. — Indian Antiquities.... 407 CHAPTER XXVII. NEW LONDON AND NORWICH. Entrance to the Thames. — Fisher's Island. — Block Island. — New London. — Light-ships ami Light-houses. — Hempstead House.— Bishop Seabury. — Old Burial-ground. — New London Har- bor. — The little Ship-destroyer.— Groton and Monument. — Arnold. — British Attack on Groton. — Fort Griswold. — The Pequots. — John Mason. — Silas Deane. — Beaumarchais. — John Led- 14 CONTENTS. yard. — Decatur and Hardy. — Norwich City. — The Yantic picturesque. — Uncas, the Mohegaii Chieftain.— Norwich Town,— Fine old Trees. — Tlie Huntingtous Page 420 CHAPTER XXVIII. SATBROOK. Old Saybrook. — Disappearance of the Yankee.— Old Girls. — Isaac Hull. — Tiie Harts. — Connecti- cut Kiver. — Old Fortress. — Dutch Courage. — The Pilgrims' Experiences.— Cromwell, Hamji- den, and Pym. — Lady Fenwick. — George Fenwick. — Lion Gardiner. — Old Burial-ground. — Yale College.— The Shore, and the End 441 INDEX ir,l r . LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Pigeon Cove, Cape Ann . FrHispiece. Map In Preface. Head-piece IS Jacques Carlier 20 Captain John Smith 21 Pierre du Guast, Sieur de Mouts 23 Sir Humphrey Gilbert 24 Fac- simile of first Map en- graved in New England 25 Tail-piece 26 Mount Desert, from Blue Hill Bay 27 Map of Mount Desert Island . . 28 Samuel Champlain 29 Head of Somes's Sound 32 Echo Lake 33 Cliffs, Dog Mountain, Somes's Sound 37 The Stone Wall 3S Entrance to Somes's Sound ... 39 Professor Agassiz 40 View of Eagle Lake and the Sea from Green Mountain. . . 43 Cliffs on Bald Porcupine 44 Southerly End of Newport Mountain, near the Sand Beach 4S Cave of the Sea, Schooner Head 46 Cliffs at Schooner Head 47 Devil's Den and Schooner Head 48 GreatHead 51 The Ovens, Saulsbury's Cove. . 55 Tail-piece 57 Castine, approaching from Islesboro 58 General Henry Ilnox 61 General Benjamin Lincoln 62 Fort Point 63 View from Fort George 66 Sir John Moore 67 Fort Griffith 68 Fort George 69 Tail-piece 72 Ruins of Fort Pentagoet 73 Pine-tree Shilling 75 Colbert 79 Lobster Pot S5 Tail-piece 80 Old Fort Frederick, Pemaquid Point 87 "The Land-breeze of Evening" 88 Cotton Mather 94 Ancient Pemaquid 95 Charlevoix 96 French Frigate, Seventeenth Century 98 Hutchinson 99 Monhegan Island 102 Thatcher's Island Light, and Fog-signals, Cape Ann 103 Graves of Burrows and Blythe, Portland 107 Tail-piece (Burrows's Medal) . . 108 Gorge, Bald Head Cliff 109 Old Wrecks on the Beach 112 The Morning Round 119 What the Sea can do 123 York Meeting-house 134 Jail at Old York 136 Pillory 137 Stocks 137 Old Garrison House 139 Tail-piece 1-10 Portsmouth, New Hampshire, from Kittery Bridge 141 Navy Yard, Kittery, Maine 142 Block-house and Fort, Kittery Point 144 Sir William Pepperell's House, Kittery Point 145 Sir William Pepperell 146 Kittery Point, Maine 148 Governor Langdon's Mansion, Portsmouth 150 Tail-piece 152 Whale's-back Light 153 Portsmouth and the Isles of Shoals (Map) 154 Shag and Mingo Rocks, Duck Island 158 Meeting-house, Star Island — 163 The Graves, with Captain John Smith's Monument, Star Isl- and 1*55 Gorge, Star Island 169 Tail-piece 1"4 Cliffs, White Island 175 Blackbeard, the Pirate 178 Smutty Nose 182 Haley Dock and Homestead. . . 183 Ledge of Rocks, Smutty Nose . 186 South-east End of Appledore, looking South 187 Duck Island, from Appledore. . 188 Laighton's Grave 190 Londoner's, from Star Island. . 191 Covered Way and Light-house, White Island 193 White Island Light 194 Tail-piece 195 Weutworth House, Little Har- bor 196 Point of Graves 197 Old House, Great Island 198 Old Tower, Newcastle 199 Gate -way, old Fort Constitu- tion 200 Sir Thomas Weutworth, Want- worth House, Little Harbor. 201 Marquis of Rockingham 202 In the Weutworth House, Lit- tle Harbor 203 Lady Hancock's Portrait in the Weutworth House 204 Governor Benuing Weutworth. 206 Baron Steuben 207 Witch Hill, Salem 208 Custom-house, Salem, Massa- chusetts 211 Rebecca Nurse's House 21H_ Procter House 214 Birthplace of Putnam 217 Putnam in British Uniform. ... 218 Endicott Pear-tree 218 Tail-piece (Putnam's Tavern Sign) 219 Washington Street, Salem 220 Birthplace of Hawthorne 221 Shattuck House 221 Room in which Hawthorne was bom 222 The old Witch House 223 Fragment of Examination of Rebecca Nurse 224 Thomas Beadle's Tavern, 1692. 225 Interior of First Church, Saleci 227 Ireson's House, Oakum Bay, Marblehead 228 GreatHead 229 " The Churn " 230 Drying Fish, Little Harbor 232 Unloading Fish 235 A Group of Antiques 237 Lee Street 239 Tucker's Wharf— the Steps .... 241 Gregory Street 242 Lee House 245 Town-house and Square 247 St. Michael's, Marblehead "^ti 16 LI«T OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Elbridge Gerry 240 The Gerry inauder 250 "Old North" Cougregational Church 251 Samuel Tucker 252 General Glover 253 Fort Sewall 255 Powder-house, 1755 256 James Lawreuce 257 Glimpse of the Seamen's Mon- ument and old Burial-ground 25S Lone Graves 260 "Sitting, stitching in a mourn- ful Muse" 260 The Hoe, English Plymouth. . . 261 Map of Plymouth 262 Pilgrim Hall 263 Brewster's Chest, and Stand- ish's Pot 263 Landing of the Pilgrims 264 Carver's and Brewster's Chairs 265 Mincing Knife 265 Peregrine White's Cabinet 265 Standish's Sword 266 The Old Colony Seal 267 Map of Plymouth Bay 269 Champlain's Map. — Port Cape St. Louis 274 Tail-piece 2S2 The Pilgrims' first Encounter.. 2S3 Building on the Site of Brad- ford's Mansion 284 Site of the Common House 286 The Allyne House 2S7 The Joanna Davis House, Cole's Hill 288 Plymouth Rock in 1850 289 The Gurnet , . . . 296 Watson's House, Clark's Island 297 Election Rock, Clark's Island. 298 Church's Sword 302 Tail-piece 303 Provineetown, from the Hills.. 304 Cohasset Narrows 305 Highland Light, Cape Cod 303 Washing Fish 309 Mackerel. — A Family Group. . . 313 Pond Village, Cape Cod 315 Picking and sorting Cranber- ries—Cape Cod 317 Sand-hills, Provineetown 31S Life-boat Station.— Trial of the Bomb and Line 321 Tail-piece (A "Sunfish") 323 Nantucket, from the Sea 324 Map of Cape Cod, Nantucket, and Martha's Vineyard 325 Approach to Martha's Vineyard 326 A Bit of Nantucket — the House- tops 328 PAGE Last of the Whale-ships 332 Whaling in the olden Time. . . . 333 Whale of the Ancients 334 E. Johnson's Studio, Nantucket 341 Tail-piece 342 Nantucket. — Old Windmill, looking oceanward 343 Captured Porpoise and Black- flsh 345 The Blue-flsh 346 Blue-flshing 347 Hcmies of the Fishermen, Sias- conset 352 The Sea-bluff, Siasconset 353 Hauling a Dory over the Hills, Nantucket 354 Light -house, Sankoty Head, Nantucket 355 Tail-piece 355 Newport, from Fort Adams 356 Old Fort, Dumpling Rocks .... 358 Old-time Houses 360 Residence of Governor Cod- dington, Newport, 1641 361 Newport State-house 363 Commodore Perry's House 364 Jewish Cemetery 365 Jews' Synagogue, Newport 366 Judah Touro 867 The Redwood Library 368 Abraham Redwood 369 The Old Stone Mill 370 The Perry Monument 371 Tail-piece 372 Boat Landing 373 The Beach 374 CliffWalk 375 The Cliffs 376 A Newport Cottage 377 Charlotte Cushman's Residence 377 Spouting Rock 378 The Dumplings 380 Hessian Grenadier 381 Coast Scene, Newport 382 The Drive 383 Purgatory Bluff 383 Whitehall 384 Washington Park, Newport 385 D'Estaing 386 Earl Howe 388 Rochambeau 388 Rochambeau's Head-quarters . 389 Louis XVI 389 Military Map of Rhode Island, 1778 .390 Lafayette 391 Barou Vioraonil 391 Trinity Church, Newport 392 Chastellux 392 Lauzun 393 PARK Mathieu Dumas 394 Deux-Ponts 395 De Barras 395 Latour D'Auvergne 396 Tail-piece 397 Graves on the Bluff, Fort Road 898 Tombstones, Newport Ceme- tery 399 Perry's Monument 401 Oliver Hazard Perry 401 Friends' Meeting-house 402 George Fox 403 Charles Lee 404 Mount Hope 407 The Glen 408 A Rhode Island Windmill 409 William Barton 410 Silas Talbot 410 Prescott's Head-quarters 411 Agricultural Prosperity 412 From Butts's Hill, looking North 413 Quaker Hill, from Butts's Hill, looking North 414 Battle-ground of August29,1778 414 King Philip, from an old Print 415 Inscription on Dightou Rock. . 416 Old Leonard House, Raynham. 419 New London in 1813 420 New London Harbor, north View 421 New Loudon Light 421 New London in 1781 (Map) 422 Old Block-house, Fort Trum- bull 423 A Light-ship ou her Station. . . 424 Court-house, New London 425 Bishop Seabury's Monument . . 426 Groton Monument 427 Benedict Arnold 429 Storming of the Indian For- tress 430 Silas Deane 431 Stephen Decatur 433 Rustic Bridge, Norwich 434 Old Mill, Norwich 435 Signatures of Uncas and his Sons 436 Uncas's Monument 437 Arnold's Birthplace 437 Elm-trees by the Wayside 438 General Huntington's Houf^e . . 438 Mansion of Governor Hunting- ton 439 Congregational Church 440 Tail-piece -440 Peter Stuyvesant 441 Isaac Hull 444 A Moss-grown Memorial 446 Tail-piece 44'i THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. CHAPTER I. NEW ENGLAND OF THE ANCIENTS. "This is the forest primeval. The murmuring pines and the hemlocks, Bearded with moss, and with garments gi-een, indistinct in the twilight, Stand like Druids of Old, with voices sad and prophetic, Stand like iiarpers hoar, with beards that rest on their bosoms. Loud from its rocky caverns the deep-voiced neighboring ocean Speaks, and in accents disconsolate answers the wail of the forest." Longfellow. TN many respects the sea-coast of Maine is the most remarkable of New -■- England. It is serrated with craggy projections, studded vvitli harboi-s, seamed with inlets. Broad bays conduct to rivers of great volume that an- nually bear her forests down to the sea. Her shores are barricaded with islands, and her waters teem with the abundance of the seas. Seen on the map, it is a splintered, jagged, forbidding sea-board ; beheld with the eye in a kindly season, its tawny headlands, green archipelagos, and inviting har- 2 18 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. bovs, infolding sites recalling the earlier efforts at European colonization, combine in a wondrous degree to win the admiration of the man of science, of letters, or of leisure. Maine embraces within her limits the semi-fabulous Norumbega and Ma- voslien of ancient writers. Some portion of her territory has been known at various times by the names of Acadia, New France, and New England. The arms of France and of England have alternately been erected on her soil, and the flags of at least four j)owerful states have claimed her subjection. The most numerous and warlike of the primitive New England nations were seated here. Traces of French occupation are remaining in the names of St. Croix, Mount Desert, Isle au Haut, and Castine, names which neither treaties nor national prejudice have been quite able to eradicate. The name of Norumbega, or Norembegue, the earliest applied to New England, is attributed to the Portuguese and Spaniards. Jean Alfonse, the pilot of Roberval, the same person who is accredited with having been first to navigate the waters of Massachusetts Bay, gives them the credit of its discovery. It is true that Marc Lescarbot, the Parisian advocate whose re- lations are the foundations of so many others, Avas at the colony of Port Royal in the year 1606, with Pontgrave, Champlain, and De Poutrincourt. This writer discredits all of Alfonse's statement in relation to the great river and coast of Norumbega, except that part of it in Avhich he says the river had at its entrance many islands, banks, and rocks. In this fragment from the " Voyages Aventureux " of Alfonse, the embouchure of the river of Norumbega is placed in thirty degrees ("trente degrez") and the pilot states that from thence the coast turns to the west and west-north-west for more than two hundred and fifty leagues.' The most casual reader will know how to value such a relation wdthout reference to the sarcasm of Lescarbot, when he says, "And well may he call his voyages adventurous, not for him- self, who was never in the hundredth part of the places which he describes (at least it is easy to conjecture so), but for those Avho might wish to follow the routes which he directs the mariner to follow." After this, his claim to l)e considered the first European navigator in Massachusetts Bay must be re- ceived with many grains of allowance. Champlain, who remained in the country through the winter of 1605, on purpose to complete his map, has this to say of the river and city of Norum- bega; he is writing of the Penobscot: "I believe this river is that which several historians call Norumbegue, and which the greater part have written, is large and spacious, with many islands; audits entrance in forty-three and forty-three and a half; and others in forty-four, more or less, of latitude. As for the declination, I have neither ' "Et que passe cette riviere la cote tourne a I'Ouest et Quest- Norouest plus de deux cens cin- quante lieues,"etc. NEW ENGLAND OF THE ANCIENTS. 19 read nor heard any one speak of it. They describe also a great and very populous city of natives, dexterous and skillful, liaving cotton cloth. I am satisfied that the major part of those who make mention of it have never seen it, and speak from the hearsay evidence of those who know no more than themselves. I can well believe that there are some who have seen the embouchure, for the reason that there are, in fact, many islands there, and that it lies in the latitude of forty-four degrees at its entrance, as they say ; but that any have entered it is not credible ; for they must have described it in quite another manner to have removed this doubt from many people." With this protest Champlain admits the country of Norumbega to a place on his map of 1612. In the '■'■Histoire Universelle des Lides Occidentales^'' printed at Douay in 1607, the author, after describing Virginia, speaks of Norumbega, its great river and beautiful city. The mouth of the river is fixed in the forty-fourth and the pretended city in the forty-fifth degree, which approximates closely enough to the actual latitude of the Penobscot. This authority adds, that it is not known whence the name originated, for the Indians called it Agguncia.' It also refers to the island well situated for fishery at the mouth of the great river. On the map of Ortehus (1603) the two countries of Norumbega and Nova Francia occupy what is now Nova Scotia and New England respect- ively. The only features laid down in Nova Francia by name are "R. Grande Orsinora," " C. de lagnas islas," and "Montagues St. Jean." These localities answer reasonably well to as many conjectures as there are mountains, streams, and capes in New England ; there is no projection of the coast corresponding with Cape Cod. Champlain names the River Penobscot, Pe- metegoit. By this appellation, with some trivial change in orthography, it continued known to the French until its final repossession by the En- glish.' Turning to the " painful collections of Master Hakluyt," the old preb- endary of Bristol, we find Mavoshen described as "a country lying to the north and by east of Virginia, between the degrees of 43 and 45, fortie leagues broad and fifty in length, lying in breadth east and west, and in length north and south. It is bordered on the east with a countrey, the peo- ple whereof they call Tarrantines, on the west with Epistoman, on the north with a very great Avood, called Senaglecounc, and on the south with the mayne ocean sea and many islands," In all these relations there is some- thing of fact, but much more that is too unsubstantial for the historian's ac- ceptance. The voyages of the Norsemen, of De Rut, and Thevet are still a ' The monk Andre Thevet, who professes to have visited Norumbega River in looC, says it was called by the natives "Agoncy." '^ According to the Abbe Maurault, Pentagoet, in the Indian vocabulary, signifies "a phxce in a river where there are rapids." On the authority of tlie "History of the Abenaquis," Penobscot is, "where the land is stony, or covered with rocks." 20 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. disputed and a barren field. I do not propose here to indulge in speculations respecting them. Francis I. demanded, it is said, to be shown that clause in the will of Adam which disinherited him in the New World for the benefit of the Span- iards. Under his favoi-, the Florentine Verrazani put to sea from Dieppe, in Le Daupliine, in the year 1524.' By virtue of his discoveries the French na- tion claimed all the terri- tory now included in New England. The astute Fran- cis followed up the clew by dispatching, in 1534, Jacques Cartier in La Grande Herrnine. Despite the busy times in Europe, near the close of his reign, Henry IV. continued to fa- vor projects confirming the footing obtained by his predecessors. Until 1614, when the name of New England first appeared on Smith's map, the French JACQUES CARTIER. j^^^ ^j^^ j^^^^^^. ^f ^^jj^^ about all tliat was known to the geography of its sea-board. There can now be no harm in saying that Captain John Smith was not the first to give a Christian name to New England. The Florentine Verra- zani called it, in 1524, New France, when he traversed the coasts from the thirty -fourth parallel to Newfoundland, or Prima Vista. Sebastian Cabot may have seen it before him ; but this is only conjecture, though our great- grandfathers were willing to spill their blood rather than have it called New France. According to the "Modern Universal History," Cabot confessedly took formal possession of Newfoundland and Norumbega, whence he carried oft" tlirce natives. In the '■'■ Theatre Universel cP Ortelius^'' there is a map of America, engraved in 1572, and very minute, in which all the countries north ' It is cniious tliat three Italians — Columbus, Cabot, and Verraicani — should lead all others iu the discoveries of the American continent. NEW ENGLAND OF THE ANCIENTS. 21 and south are entitled New France. " The English," says a French au- thority, " had as yet nothing in that country, and there is nothing set down on this map for them." In Mercator's atlas of 1623 is a general map of America, wliich calls all the territory north and south of Canada New France. New En- gland does not iind a place on this map. Canada is down as a particu- lar province. Virginia is also there. Captain John Smith's map of New England of 1614 contains many singular features. In his " Description of New England," printed in 1616, the Indian names are given of all their coast settle- ments. Prince Charles, however, altered these to English names af- ter the book was printed. The re- tention of some of them by the actual settlers might be accidental, but they appear much as if scat- tered at random over the paper. "Plimouth" is where it was located six years after the date of the map. York is called Boston, and Agamenticus " Snadoun Hill." Penobscot is called " Pembrock's Bay." The name of Cape Breton is said to occur on very early maps, antecedent even to Cartier's voyage. A map of Henry II. is the oldest mentioned. " Nu- rembega" is on a map in '"'' Le Receuil de Mamusius^''^ tome iii., where there is an account of a Frenchman of Dieppe, and a map made before the discovery of "Jean Guartier." It is asserted that the Basque and Breton fishermen were on the coast of America before the Portuguese and Spaniards. Baron La Hontan says. "The seamen of French Biscay are known to be the most able and dexterous mariners that are in the world." It is pretty certain that Cape Breton had this name before the voyages of Cartier or Cham- plain. The Frenchman of Dieppe is supposed to be Thomas Aubert, whose discovery is assigned to the year 1508. The atlas of Guillaume and John Blauw has a map of America in tome i. There is a second, entitled Nova Belgica and N'ova Anglica. New England extends no farther than the Kennebec, where begins the territory of N'ova FrancicB Pars, in which Noi'umbega is located. The rivers Pentagouet and Chouacouet (Saco) a])pear properly placed. The map bears certain marks in CAPTAIN JOHN SMITH. ' Giambetta Ramiisio, the Venetian. 22 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. its nomenclature, and the configuration of the coast, of being compiled from those of Champlain and Smith.' Researches made in England, France, and Holland, at the instance of Mas- sachusetts and New York,^ have resulted in the recovery of many manu- script fragments more or less interesting, bearing upon the question of pri- ority of discovery. Of these the following is not the least curious. If cre- dence may be placed in the author of the '■'■ 3femoires jyour servir d Pllistoire de Dieppe,'''' '■'■ Eecherches sur les Voyages et decouvertes des Namgateurs Nor- mands^'' and '■'' Navigateurs Fran^ais^'' the continent of America was discover- ed by Captain Cousin in the year 1488. Sailing frotn Dieppe, he was carried westward by a gale, and drawn by currents to an unknown coast, where he saw the mouth of a large river. Cousin's first ofiicer was " un etranger nomine Pin9on ou Pinzon," who in- stigated the men to mutiny, and was so turbulent that, on the return of the caravel, Cousin charged him before the magistrates of Dieppe Avith mutiny, insubordination, and violence. He was banished from the city, and embarked four years afterward, say the Dieppois, with Christopher Columbus, to whom he had given information of the New World.' In the '•'■ Bibliotheque RoyaW'' of Paris there is, or rather was, existing a manuscript (dated in 1545) entitled '■'' Cosmographie de Jean Alfonce le JCam- tongeoisy It is undoubtedly from this manuscript that Jean de Marnef and De St. Gelais compiled the " Voyages AventiireAix d'' Alfonce Xaintongeois^'' printed in 1559, which includes an expedition along the coast from New- foundland southwardly to "une baye jusques par les 42 degres, entre la No- rembegue et la Fleuride," in 1543. Of Jean Alfonse it is known that he was one of Roberval's pilots, in his voyage of 1642 to Canada, and that he returned home Avith Cartier. Rober- val expected to find a north-west passage, and Jean Alfonse, who searched the coast for it, believed the land he saw to the southward to be part of the continent^ of Asia. His cruise within the latitude of Massachusetts Bay is also mentioned by Hakluyt. The claim of Alfonse to be the discoverer of Massachusetts Bay has been set forth with due prominence.* Alfonse and Champlain were both from the same old province in the west of France. It goes without dispute that the older French historians knew little or * Chaniplain's map of 1612 is entitled "Carte Geographiqve de la Novvelle France FAICTTE PAR LE SlEVR DE CHAMPLAIN SaINT ToNGOIS, CAPPITAINE ORDINAIRE POVR LE Roy EN LA Marine. Faict len 1612." All the territory from Labrador to Cape Cod is em- braced in this Tery curious map. Some of its details will be introduced in successive chapters as occasion may demand. There is another map of Champlain of 1G32, /or^ detailU, but of less rarity than tlie first. '^ By Ben Pevley Poore and Jolin Romeyn Brodhead. ' "Massachusetts Archives, French Documents," vol. i., p. 2G9. * Rev. B. F. De Costa's "Northmen in Maine." NEW ENGLAND OF THE ANCIENTS. 23 nothing of Hakluyt and Purchas. So little did the affairs of the New World engage their attention, that in the "History of France," by Father Daniel, printed at Amster- dam in 1720, by the Com- pany of Jesuits, in six pon- derous tomes, the discover- ies and settlements in New- France (Canada) occupy no more than a dozen lines. Cartier,Roberval,De Monts, and Champlain are mention- ed, and that is all. When a vessel of the old navigators was appi'oaching the coast,the precaution was taken of sending sailors to the mast-head. These look- outs were relieved every two hours until night-fill, at which time, if the land was not yet in sight, they furl- ed their sails so as to make little or no way during the night. It was a matter of emulation among the ship's company who should first discover the land, as the passengers usually present- ed the lucky one with some pistoles. One writer men- tions that on board French vessels, after sighting Cape Race, the ceremony known among us as " cross- ing the line " was performed by the old salts on the green hands, without re- gard to season. The method of taking possession of a new country is thus described in the old chronicles : Jacques Cartier erected a cross thirty feet high, on which was suspended a shield with the arms of France and the -^vords " Vive le Moy.^'' Sir Humphrey Gilbert, in 1583, raised a pillar at Newfoundland, with a plate of lead, having the queen's arms "graven thereon." A turf and a twig were presented to him, which he received with a hazel wand. The expression "by turf and twig," a symbol of actual, possession of the soil and its products, is still to be met with in older New England records. Douglass, the American historian, speaking of Henry IV., says, " He plant- PIERKE DU C.L \^T, SIEI'lt DE MONTS. 24 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. SIR HDMPHKEY GILBEKT. ed a colony in Canada wliich subsists to this day. May it not long subsist ; it is a nuisance to our North American settlements : JDelenda est Carthago.'''' The insignificant attempt of Gosnold, in 1G03, and the disastrous one of Popham, in 1607, contributed lit- tle to the knowledge of New England. But the absence of any actual possession of the soil did not prevent the exercise of unworthy violence toward in- truders on the territory claimed by the English crown. In 1613 Sir Samuel Argall broke up the French settlement begun at Mount Desert in that year, opening fire on the unsuspecting colonists be- fore he gave himself the trouble of a foimal summons. Those of other nations fared little better, as the following recital will show : Purchas relates that "Sir Ber- nard Drake, a Devonshire knight, came to Newfoundland with a commission; and having divers good ships under his command, he took many Portugal sliips, and brought them into England as j^rizes. "Sir Bernard, as was said, having taken a Portugal ship, and brought her into one of our western ports, the seamen that were therein were sent to the prison adjoining the Castle of Exeter. At the next assizes held at the castle there, about the 2'7th of Queen Elizabeth, when the prisoners of the county were brought to be arraigned before Sergeant Flowerby, one of the judges appointed for this western circuit at tliat time, suddenly there arose such a noisome smell from the bar that a great number of peoj^le there present were therewith infected; Avhereof in a very short time after died the said judge. Sir John Cliichester, Sir Arthur Bassett, and Sir Bernard Drake, kniglits, and justices of the peace there sitting on the bench; and eleven of the jury im- paneled, the twelfth only escaping; with divers other persons." Captain John Smith saj's : "The most northern part I was at was the Bay of Penobscot, which is east and west, north and south, more than ten leagues; but such were my occasions I was constrained to be satisfied of them I found in the bay, that the river ran far np into the land, and was well inhabited with many people; but they were from their habitations, either fishing among tlie isles, or hunting the lakes and woods for deer and beavers. " The bay is full of great islands of one, two, six, eight, or ten miles in length, which divide it into many faire and excellent good harbours. On the east of it are the Tarrantines, their mortal enemies, where inhabit the NEW ENGLAND OF THE ANCIENTS. 25 French, as they report, that live with these people as one nation or f:xm- iiy." If the Englisli had no special reason for self-gratulation in the quality of the emigrants first introduced into New England, the French have as little ground to value themselves. In order to people Acadia, De Monts begged permission of Henri Quatre to take the vagabonds that might be collected in the cities, or wandering at large through the country. The king acceded to the request.' FAC-SIMILE OF FIKST MAP ENGRAVED IN NEW ENGLAND. Again, in a memoir on the state of the French plantations, the following passage occurs: "The post of Pentagouet, being at the head of all Acadia on the side of Boston, appears to have been principally strengthened by the sending over of men and courtesans that his majesty would have emigrate there for the purpose of marrying, so that this portion of the colony may re- ceive the accessions necessary to sustain it against its neighbors.'" These statements are supported by the testimony of the Baron La Hon- tan, who relates that, after the reorganization of the troops in Canada, " sev- eral ships were sent hither from France with a cargo of women of ordinary reputation, under the direction of some old stale nuns, who rano-ed them in "Mass. Archives, French Documents." Ibid. 26 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. three classes. The vestal virgins were heaped ui? (if I may so speak), one above another, in three different apartments, where the bridegrooms singled out their brides just as a butcher does ewes from among a ilock of sheep. The sparks that wanted to be married made their addresses to the above- mentioned governesses, to Avhom tliey were obliged to give an account of their goods and estates before they were allowed to make their choice in the seraglio." After the selection was made, the marriage was concluded on the spot, in presence of a j^riest and a notary, the governor-general usually pre- senting the happy couple with some domestic animals with which to begin life anew. When the number of historical precedents is taken into account, the su- perstition long current among mariners with regard to setting sail on Friday seems unaccountable. Columbus sailed from Spain on Friday, discovered land on Friday, and returned to Palos on Friday. Cabot discovered the American continent on Friday. Gosnold sailed from England on Friday, made land on Friday, and came to anchor on Friday at Ex mouth. These coincidences might, it would seem, dispel, with American mariners at least, something of the dread with which a voyage begun on that day has long- been regarded. MOUNT DESERT, FROM BLUE HILL BAI. mm CHAPTER 11. MOUNT DESERT ISLAND. "There, gloomily against the sky, The Dark Isles rear their summits high ; And Desert Rock, abrupt and bare, Lifts its gray turrets in the air." WlIITTIER. ISLANDS possess, of themselves, a magnetism not vouchsafed to any spot of the main-land. In cutting loose from the continent a feeling of freedom is at once experienced that comes spontaneously, and abides no longer thj you remain an islander. You are conscious, in again setting foot on the mr shore, of a change, which no analysis, however subtle, will settle altogether to your liking. Upon islands the majesty and power of the ocean come home to you, as in multiplying itself it pervades every fibre of your consciousness, gaining in vastness as you grow in knowledge of it. On islands it is always present — always roaring at your feet, or moaning at your back. Islands have had no little share in the world's doings. Corsica, Elba, and St. Helena are linked together by an unbroken historical chain. Homer and the isles of Greece, Capri and Tiberius loom in the twilight of antiquity. Thinking on Garibaldi or Victor Hugo, the mind instinctively lodges on Ca- prera or Guernsey. An island was the death of Philip II., and the ruin of Xapoleon. In the New World, Santo Domingo, Cuba, and Newfoundland were first visited by Europeans. The islands of the New England coast have become beacons of her history. Mount Desert, Monhegan, and the Isles of Shoals, Clark's Island, Nantucket, The Vineyard, and Rhode Island have havens where the historian or antiqua- ry must put in before landing on broader ground. I might name a score of 28 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. others of lesser note ; these are planets in our watery system. On this line many peaceful summer campaigns have been brought to a happy conclusion. Not a few have described the more genial aspects of Mount Desert. It has in fact given employment to many busy pens and famous pencils. I am not aware that its wintry guise has been portrayed on paper or on canvas. The very name is instinctively associated with an idea of desolateness : "The gray and thunder-smitten pile Wliich marks afar the Desert Isle." Champlain was no doubt impressed by the sight of its craggy summits, stripped of trees, basking their scarred and splintered steeps in a September sun. " 1 have called it," he says, " the Isle of Monts Deserts." In a little "/7«#toeAe" of only seven- teen or eighteen tons burden, he had set out on the 2d of September, 1604, from St. Croix, to explore the coast of Norum- bega. Two natives accompanied him as guides. The same day, as they passed close to an island four or five leagues long, their bark struck a hardly sub- merged I'ock, which tore a hole near the MAP OF MOUNT DESERT ISLAND. MOUNT DESERT ISLAND. 29 keel. They either sailed around the island, or explored it by land, as the strait between it and the main-laud is described as being not more than a hundred paces in breadth. "The land," continues the French voyager, " is very high, intersect- ed by passes, ap- pearing from the sea like seven or eight mountains ranged near each other. The summits of the greater part of these are bare of trees, be- cause they are noth- ing but rocks." It was during this voy- age, and with equal pertinence, Cham- plain named Isle au Haut.' According to Pere Biard, the savages called the island of Mount Desert ^'■Pemetiq^^ " meaning," says M. I'Abbe Maurault, " that which is at the head," A crowned head it appears, seen on land or sea. It is curious to observe how the embouchure of the Penobscot is on either shore guarded by two such solitary ranges of mountains as the Camden and Mount Desert groups. They embrace about the same number of individual peaks, and approximate nearly enough in altitude. From Camden we may skirt tlie shores for a hundred and fifty miles to the west and south before meeting with another eminence; and then it is an isolated hill standing al- most upon the line of division between Maine and New Hampshire that is encountered. On the shore of the main-land, west of Mount Desert, is Blue Hill, another lone mountain. Katahdin is still another astray, of grander proportions, it is true, but belonging to this family of lost mountains. Al- though they appear a continuous chain when massed by distance, the Mount SAMUEL CHAMPLAIN. * " Cliamplain's Voyages," edit. 1G13. Mount Desert was also made out by the Boston colo- nists of 1630. The reader is referred for materials of Mount Desert's history to Chauiplain, Char- levoix, Lescarbot, Biard, and Purclias, vol. iv. 30 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. Desert range is, in reality, broken into little family groups, as exhibited on the map. Another peculiarity of the Mount Desert chain is that the eastern summits are the highest, terminating generally in precipitous and inaccessible cliffs. I asked a village ancient his idea of the origin of these mountains, and re- ceived it in two words, " Hove up." The cluster numbers thirteen eminences, to which the title " Old Thirteen " may be more fitly applied than to any po- litical community of modern history. This assemblage of hills with lakes in their laps at once recalled the Adirondack region, with some needful deduc- tions for the height and nakedness of the former when compared with the greater altitudes and grand old forests of the wilderness of northern New York. Should any adventurous spirit, after reading these pages, wish to see the Desert Isle in all its rugged grandeur, he may do so at the cost of some tri- fling inconveniences that do not tall to the lot of the summer tourist. In this case, Bangor or Bucksport Avill be the point of departure for a journey of from thirty to forty miles by stage. I came to the island by steamboat from Bos- ton, which landed me at Bucksport; whence I made ray way via Ellsworth to Somesville. After glancing at the map of the island, I chose Somesville as a central point for my excursions, because it lies at the head of the sound, that divides the island almost in two, is the point toward which all roads converge, and is about equally distant from the harbors or places of particular resort. In summer I should have adopted the same plan until I had fully explored the shores of the Sound, the mountains that are contiguous, and the western half of the island. In twenty-four hours the visitor may know by heart the names of the mountains, lakes, coves, and settlements, with the roads leading to them; he may thereafter establish himself as convenience or fancy shall dictate. At Somesville there is a comfortable hostel, but the larger summer hotels are at Bar Harbor and at South-west Harbor. The accentuation should not fall on the last, but on the first syllable of Desert, although the name is almost universally mispronounced in Maine, and notably so on the island itself. Usually it is Mount Desarif, toned into Desert by the casual population, who thus give it a curious significance. Mount Desert is one of the wardens of Penobscot Bay, interposing its bulk between the waters of Frenchman's Bay on the east and Blue Hill Bay on the west. A bridge unites it with the main-land in the town of Trenton, where the opposite shores approach within rifle-shot of each other. This point is locally known as the Narrows. When I crossed, the tide was press- ing against the wooden piers, in a way to quicken the pace, masses of newly- formed ice that had floated out of Frenchman's Bay with the morning's ebb. You get a glimpse of IMount Desert in sailing up Penobscot Bay, where its mountains appear foreshortened into two cloudy shapes that you would fail to know again. But the highest hills between Bucksport and Ellsworth MOUNT DESERT ISLAND. 31 display the whole range ; and from the latter place until the island is reached their snow-laced sides loomed grandly in the gray mists of a December day. In this condition of the atmosphere their outlines seemed more sharply cut than when thrown against a background of clear blue sky. I counted eight peaks, and then, on coming nearer, others, that at tirst had blended with those higher and more distant ones, detached themselves. Green Mountain will be remembered as the highest of the chain, Beech and Dog mountains from their peculiarity of outline. A wider break between two hills indicates where the sea has driven the wedge called Somes's Sound into the side of the isle. Western Mountain terminates the range on the right ; Newport Mountain, Avith Bar Harbor at its foot, is at the other extremity of the groujx In ap- proaching from sea this order would appear reversed. The Somesville road is a nearly direct line drawn from the head of tlie Sound to the Narrows. Soon after passing the bridge, that to Bar Harbor diverged to the left. Crossing a strip of level land, we began the ascent of Town Hill througli a dark growth of cedar, fir, and othgr evergreen trees. A little hamlet, where there is a post-office, crowns the summit of Town Hill. Not long after, the Sound opened into view one of those rare vistas that leave a picture for after remembrance. At first it seemed a lake shut in by the feet of two interlocking mountains, but the vessels that lay fast-moored in the ice were plainly sea -going craft. Somesville lay beneath us, its little steeple pricking the frosty air. Cold, gray, and cheerless as their outward dress ap- peared, the mountains had more of impressiveness, now that they were cov- ered from base to summit with snow. They seemed really mountains and not hills, receiving an Alpine tone with their wintry vesture. After all, a winter landscape in New England is less gloomy than in the same zone of the Mississippi Valley, where, in the total absence of evergreen- trees, nothing but long reaches of naked forest rewards the eye, which roves in vain for some vantage-ground of relief. Jutting points, well wooded with dark firs, or clumps of those trees standing by the roadside, were agreeable features in this connection. A brisk trot over the fi-ozen road brought us to the end of the half-dozen miles that stretch between Somesville and the Narrows. The snow craunch- ed beneath the horses' feet as we glided through the village street ; in a mo- ment more the driver drew up with a flourish beside the door of an inn which bears for its ensign a name advantageously known in these latitudes. A rousing fire of birchen logs blazed on the open hearth. Above the mantel were cheap prints of the presidents, from Washington to Buchanan. I was made welcome, and thought of Shenstone Avhcn he says, " Whoe'er lias travel'd life's dull round, Whate'er his fortunes may have been, Must sigh to think how oft he's found Life's warmest welcome at an inn." 32 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. HEAD OF somes' S SOUND. An island fourteen miles long and a dozen broad, embracing a hundred square miles, and traversed from end to end by mountains, is to be approach- ed with respect. It excludes the idea of superficial observation. As the mountains bar the way to the southern shores, you must often make a long detour to reach a given point, or else commit yourself to the guidance of a deer- path, or the dry bed of some mountain torrent. In summer or in autumn, with a little knowledge of woodcraft, a well-adjusted pocket-compass, and a stout staff, it is practicable to enter the hills, and make your way as the red huntsmen were of old accustomed to do ; but in winter a guide would be in- dispensable, and you should have well-trained muscles to undertake it. The mountains have been traversed again and again by fire, destroying not the wood alone, but also the thin turf, the accumulations of years. The w^oods are full of the evidences of these fires in the charred remains of large trees that, after the passage of the flames, have been felled by tempests. At a distance of five miles the present growth resembles stubble; on a nearer approach it takes the appearance of underbrush ; and upon reaching the hills you find a young forest repairing the ravages made by fire, wind, and the woodman's axe. " Fifty years ago," said JNIr. Somes, " those mountains were covered with a dark growth." Cedars, firs, hemlocks, and other evergreens, with a thick s])rinkling of white-birch, and now and then a clump of beeches, make the principal base for the forest of the future on Mount Desert — pro- MOUNT DESERT ISLAND. 33 vided always it is permitted to arrive at maturity. Hitherto the poverty or o-reed of the inhabitants has sacrificed every tree that was worth the labor of felliiif. In the neighborhood of Saulsbury's Cove there are still to be seen, in inaccessible places, trees destined never to feel the axe's keen edge. Mine host of the village tavern, Daniel Somes, or "Old Uncle Daniel," as lie is known far and near, is the grandson of the first settler of the name who emigrated from Gloucester, Massachusetts, and "squatted" here — "a vile phrase" — about 1760. Abraham Somes built on the little point of land in front of the tavern-door, from whicli a clump of shrubs may be seen growing near the spot. Other settlers came from Cape Cod, and were located at Hull's and other coves about the island. I asked my landlord if there were any family traditions relative to the short-lived settlerrreiit of the Fi-ench, or traces of an occupation that might well have set his ancestors talking. He shook his gray head in emphatic negative. Had I asked him for " Tam O'Shanter" or the "Brigs of Ayr," he would have given it to me stanza for stanza. There are tew excursions to be made within a certain radius of Somesville that offer so much of variety and interest as that on the western side of the Sound, pursuing, with such wanderings as fancy may suggest, the well-beat- en road to South-west Harbor. It is seven miles of hill and dale, lake and stream, Avith a succession of charming views constantly unfolding themselves before you. And here I may remark that the roads on the island are gener- ally good, and easily followed. The map may have so far introduced the island to the reader that he will 34 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. be able to trace the route along the side of Robinson's Mountain, which is be- tween the road and the Sound, with two summits of nearly equal height, ris- ing six hundred and forty and six hundred and eighty feet above it. At the right, in descending this road, is Pa-Iio Lake, a superb piece of water, liaving Beech Mountain at its foot. You stumble on it, as it were, unawares, and enjoy the surprise all the more for it. Broad-shouldered and deep-chested mountains wall in the reservoirs that have been filled by the snows meltino- from their sides. There are speckled trout to be taken in Echo Lake, as well as in the pond lying in Somesville. Of course the echo is to be tried, even if the mount gives back a saucy answer. Next below us is Dog Mountain. It has been shut out from view until you liave uncovered it in passi<^ by the lake. Dog Mountain's eastern and high- est crest is six hundred and eighty feet in the air. How much of resemblance it bears to a ci-ouching mastili' depends in a great measure upon the imagina- tion of the beholder : Ham. "Do you see yonder cloud that's almost in shape of a camel? Pol. "By tlie mass, and 'tis like a camel indeed. Ham. "Methinks it is like a weasel. Pol. "It is backed like a weasel. Ham. "Or like a whale? Pol. "Very like a whale." Between Dog and Brown's Mountain on its eastern shore the Sound has forced its way for six or seven miles up into the centre of the island. At the southern foot of Dog Mountain is Fernald's Cove and Point, the sup- posed scene of the attempted settlement by the colony of Madame the Mar- chioness De Guerclieville. Mr. De Costa has christened Brown's Mount- ain with the name of Mansell, from Sir Robert Mansell, vice-admiral in the times of James L and Charles L The whole island was once called after the knight, but there is a touch of retributive justice in recollecting that the English, in expelling the French, have in turn been expelled from its nomen- clature. Turning now to what Prescott calls "historicals" for enliglitenment on tlie subject of the colonization of IMount Desert, it appears that upon the return of De Monts to France he gave his town of Port Royal to Jean de Poutrin- court, whose voyage in 1606 along the coast of New England will be noticed in future chapters. The projects of De Monts having been overthrown by in- trigue, and through jealousy of the exclusive rights conferred by his patent, ]\[adame De Guercheville, a "very charitable and pious lady" of the court,' entered into negotiation with Poutrincourt for the founding of Jesuit missions among the savages. Finding that Poutrincourt claimed more than he could conveniently establish a right to, Madame treated directly with Du Guast, who ' She was one of the queen's ladies of honor, and wife of the Duke of Eocliefoucauld Linnconrt. MOUNT DESERT IvSLAND. 35 ceded to her all the privileges derived by him from Henry IV. The king, in 1607, confirmed all except the grant of Port Royal, which was reserved to Poutrincourt. The memorable year of 1610 ended the career of Henry, in the Rue de la Ferronerie. In 1611 the fathers, Pere Biard and Enemond Masse, of the College d'Eu, came over to Port Royal with Biencourt, the younger Poutrincourt. During the next year an expedition under the au- spices of Madame De Guercheville was prepared to follow, and, after taking on board the two Jesuits already at Port Royal, was to proceed to make a definitive settlement somewhere in the Penobscot. The colonists numbered in all about thirty persons, including two other Jesuit fathers, named Jacques Quentin and GilbertJDu Thet.' The expedition was under the command of La Saussaye. In numbers it was about equal to the colony of Gosnold. La Saussaye arrived at Port Royal, and after taking on board the fathers, Biard and Masse, continued his route. Arriving off Menan, the vessel was enveloped by an impenetrable fog, which beset them for two days and nights. Tiieir situation was one of imminent danger, from which, if the relation of the Pore Biard is to be believed, they were delivered by prayer. On the morn- ing of the third day the fog lifted, disclosing the island of Mount Desert to their joyful eyes. The pilot landed them in a harbor on the east side of the island, where they gave thanks to God and celebrated the mass. They named the place and harbor St. Sauveur. Singularly enough, it now fell out, as seven years later it happened to the Leyden Pilgrims, that the pilot refused to carry them to their actual destina- tion at Kadesquit,^ in Pentagoet River. He alleged that the voyage was completed. After much wrangling the alFair was adjusted by the appear- ance of friendly Indians, W'ho conducted the fathers to their own place of habitation. Upon viewing the spot, the colonists determined they could not do better than to settle upon it. They accordingly set about making a lodg- ment.^ The place where the colony was established is obscured as much by the relation of Biard as by time itself. The language of the narration is calcu- lated to mislead, as the place is spoken of as " being shut in by the large island of Mount Desert." The Jesuit had undoubtedly full opportunity of becom- ing familiar with the locality, and his account was written after the dissolu- tion of the plantation by Argall. There is little doubt they were inhabiting some part of the isle, as Champlain in general terms as'^erts. Meanwhile the grassy slope of Fernald's Point gains many pilgrims. The brave ecclesiastic, Du Thet, could not have a nobler monument than the stately cliffs gi-aven by ^ Cliamplain : Mr. Shea says he was only a lay brother. * This has n resemblance to Kenduskeag, and was probably tlie present Bangor. ' Charlevoix savs the landing was on the north side of the island. 36 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. lightning and the storm with the handwriting of the Omnipotent, The puny- reverberations of Argall's broadsides were as nothing compared with the ar- tillery that has played upon these heights out of cloud battlements. During the summer of 1613, Samuel Argall, learning of the iDresence of _ the f'rench, came upon them unawares, and in true buccaneer style. A very brief and unequal conflict ensued. Du Thet stood manfully by his gun, and fell, mortally wounded. Captain Flory and three others also received wounds. Two were drowned. The French then surrendered. Argall's ship was called the Treasurer. Henri de Montmorency, Admiral of France, demanded justice of King James for the outrage, but I doubt that he ever received it. He alleged that, besides killing several of the colonists and transporting others aS prisoners to Virginia, Argall had put the remain- der in a little skiff and abandoned them to the mercy of the waves. Thus ended the fourth attempt to colonize New England. Argall, it is asserted, had the baseness to purloin the commission of La Saussaye, as it favored his project of plundering the French more at his ease, the two crowns of England and France being then at peace. He was af- terward knighted by King James, and became a member of the Council of Plymouth, and Deputy-governor of Virginia. During a second expedition to Acadia, he destroyed all traces of the colony of Madame De Guercheville. It is pretty evident he was a bold, bad man, as the more his character is scanned the less there apj^ears in it to admire. Brother Du Thet, standing with smoking match beside his gun, was wor- thy the same pencil that has illustrated the defense of Saragossa. I marvel much the event has not been celebrated in verse. An enjoyable way of becoming acquainted with Somes's Sound is to take a wherry at Somesville and drift slowly down with the ebb, returning with the next flood. In some respects it is better than to be under sail, as a landing is always easily made, and defiance may be bidden to head winds. One of the precipices of Dog Mountain, known as Eagle Cliff, has always attracted the attention of the artists, as w^cll as of all lovers of the beautiful and sublime. There has been much search for treasure in the glens here- abouts, directed by spiritualistic conclaves. One too credulous islander, in his fruitless delving after the pirate Kidd's buried hoard, has squandered the gold of his own life, and is worn to a shadow. When some one asked Moll Pitcher, the celebrated fortune-teller of Lynn, to disclose tlie place where this same Kidd had secreted his wealth, promis- ing to give her half of what was recovered, the old watch exclaimed, "Fool ! if I knew, could I not have all myself?" Kidd's Avealth must have been be- yond computation, Tliere is scarcely a headland or an island from Montauk to Grand Menan which according to local tradition does not contain some portion of his sjtoil. Much interest is attached to the shell heaps found on Fernald's Point and MOUKT DESEKT ISLAND. 37 at Sand Point opposite. There are also such banks at IIulTs Cove and elsewhere, Indian implements are occasionally met with in these deposits. It is reasonably certain that some of them are of remote antiquity. Williamson states that a heavy t^rowtli of trees was found by 1^ the first settlers upon some of the shell banks in this vicin- ity.' Associated with these relics of aboriginal occupation is the print in the rock near Cromwell's Cove, called the "Indian's Foot." It is in ap- pearance the impression of a tolerably shaped foot, fourteen inches long and two deep. The common people are not yet freed from the superstitions of two centuries ago, which ascribed all such accidental marks to the Evil One. In my progress by the road to South-west Harbor, I was intercepted near Dog Mountain by a sea-turn that soon became a steady drizzle. This afford- ed me an opportunity of seeing some fine dissolving views: the sea- mists advancing, and enveloping the mountain-tops, cheated the imagination with the idea that the mountains were themselves receding. A storm-cloud, black and threatening, drifted over Sargent's Mountain, settling bodily down upon it, deploying and extending itself until the entire bulk disappeared behind an impenetrable curtain. It was like the stealthy api^roach and quick cast of a mantle over the head of an unsuspecting victim. Very few were abroad in the storm, but I saw a nut-cracker and chickadee making the best of it. I remarked tliat under branching spruces or fir-trees the grass was still green, and the leaves of the checker-berry bright and glossy as in September. On this road admirable points of observation constantly occur from which to view tlie shifting contours of Beech and Western mount- ains, with the broad and level plateau extending along their northern base- CLIFFS, DOG MOUNTAIN, SOMES S SOUND. ' "History of Maine," vol. i., p. 80. 38 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. line far to the westward. Retracing with the eye this line, you see a little hamlet snugly ensconced on the hither slope of Beech Mountain, while the plateau is rounded oft' into the blufiis rising above Echo Lake. South-west Harbor is usually the stranger's first introduction to Mount Desert. The approach to it is consequently invested with peculiar interest to all who know how to value first impressions. Its neighborhood is less wild and picturesque than the eastern shores of the island, but Long Lake and the western range of mountains are conveniently accessible from it ; while, by crossing or ascending the Sound, avenues are opened in every di- rection to the sui'passing charms of this favored corner of New England. At Soutli-west Harbor the visitor is usually desirous of inspecting the sea-wall, or cheval-cle-frise of shattered rock, that skirts the shore less than three miles distant from the steamboat landing. And he may here witness THE STONE WALL. an impressive example of what the ocean can do. An irregular ridge of a mile in length is piled with shapeless rocks, against which the sea beats with tireless impetuosity. Fog is the bane of Mount Desert. Its frequency during the months of July and August is an important factor in the sum of outdoor enjoyment. Happily, it is seldom of long continuance, as genial sunshine or light breezes soon disperse it. There is, however, a weird sort of fascination in standing on the shore in a fog. You are completely deceived as to the nearness either of objects or of sounds, though tlie roll of the surf is more depended upon by experienced ears than the fog-bell. In sailing near the land every one has noticed the recoil of sounds from the shore, as voices, or the beat of a steamer's paddles. Coming through the Mussel Ridge Channel one unusually thick morning, the fog suddenly "scaled up," discovering White Head in uncomfortable proxim- ity. The light-house keeper stood in his door, tolling the heavy fog-bell that MOUNT DESERT ISLAND. 39 : '■■^i':^w^-._ ^' :^-zry^J-J^^^'^S^^f^^^''~ \ ENTRANCE TO SOMES'S SOUND. we had believed half a mile away. Our pilot gave him thanks with three blasts of the steam-whistle. Off the entrance to the Sound are several islands — Great Cranberry, of five hundred acres; Little Cranberry, of two hundred acres; and, farther in- shore, Lancaster's Island, of one hundred acres. The eastern channel into the Sound is between tlie two last named. Duck Island, of about fifty acres, is east of Great Cranberry ; and Baker's, on which is the light-house, is the out- ermost of the cluster. The cranberry is- indigenous to the whole extent of the Maine sea-board. It grows to perfection on the borders of wet meadows, but I have known it to thrive on the upland. The culture has been found very remunerative in localities less favored by nature, as at Cape Cod and on the New Jersey coast. Some attempts at cranberry culture have recently been made with good success at Lemoine, on the main-land, opposite Mount Desert. Blue- berries are abundant on Mount Desert. I saw one young girl who had picked enough in a week to bring her seven dollars. Formerly they were sent ofi" the island, but they are now in good demand at the hotels and boarding-houses. In poorer families the head of it picks up a little money by shore -fishing. He plants a little patch with potatoes, dressing the land with sea-weed, which costs him only the labor of gathering it. His fire-wood is as cheaply procured from the neighboring forest or shore, and in the au- tumn his wife and children gather berries, which are exchanged for necessa- ries at the stores. At the extreme southerly end of Mount Desert is Bass Harbor, with three islands outlying. It is landlocked, and a well-known haven of refuge. PKOFESSOK AGASSIZ. CHAPTER III. CHRISTMAS ON MOUNT DESERT, "You should have seen that long hill-range, With gaps of brightness riven — How tln'ough each pass and hollow streamed The purpling light of heaven — " WlIITTIER. TTAVING broken tlic ice a little with the reader, I shall suppose liim pres- -*--*- ent on the most glorious Christmas morning a New England sun ever shone npon. "A green Christmas makes a fat church-yard," says an Old- country proverb; this was a white JVoel, cloudless and bright. I saw that the peruke of my neighbor across the Sound, Sargent's Mountain, had been freshly powdered during the nipht; that the rigging of the ice-bound craft CHRISTMAS ON MOUNT DESERT. 41 liarbored between us was incased in solid ice, reflecting the sunbeams like burnished steel. The inscription on mine host's sign-board was blotted out by the driving sleet ; the brown and leafless trees stood transfigured into ob- jects of wondrous beauty. I heard the jingle of bells in the stable-yard and the stamping of feet below stairs, and then " I heard nae mair, for Chanticleer Shook off the pouthery snaw, And hail'd the morning with a clieer, , A cottage-rousing craw." The roads from Bar Harbor and from North-east Harbor unite within a short distance of Somesville, and enter the village together. Within these highwaj's is embraced a large proportion of those picturesque features for which the island is famed. In this area are the highest mountains, the bold- est headlands, the deepest indentations of the shores. It is not for nothing, therefore, that Bar Harbor has become a favorite rendezvous of the throngs " That seek the crowd they seem to fly." On Christmas -day the road to Bar Harbor was an avenue of a winter palace more sumptuous than that by the Neva. Every spray of the dark evergreen trees was heavily laden with a light snow that plentifully besprin- kled us in passing beneath the often overreaching branches. The stillness was unbroken. Blasted trees — gaunt, withered, and hung with moss like rags on the shrunken limbs of a mendicant — were now incrusted with ice- crystals, that glittered like lustres on gigantic candelabra. On the top of some rounded hill there sometimes was standing the bare stem of a blasted pine, where it shone like the spike on a grenadier's helmet. It was a scene of enchantment. I saw frequent tracks Avhere the deer had come down the mountain and crossed the road, sometimes singly, sometimes in pairs, and in search, no doubt, of water. The foot-prints of foxes, rabbits, and grouse were also com- mon. During the day I met an islander who told me he had shot a fat buck only a day or two before, and that many deer were still haunting the mount- ains. Formerly, but so long ago that only tradition preserves the fact, there were black bear and moose ; and traces of beaver are yet to be seen in their dams and houses. Red foxes and mink, and occasionally the black fox, great- ly valued for its fur, are taken by the hunters. In order to make the roads interesting to nocturnal travelers, rumor was talking of a panther and a wolf that had been seen within a short time. In the day when these coasts were stocked with beaver, its skin was the common currency of the country, as well of the Indians as of the whites. It was greatly prized in Europe, and constituted the wealth of the savages of northern New England, who were wholly unacquainted with wampum until 42 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. it M'as introduced among them by the Plymouth trading-posts on the Penob- scot and Kennebec. The wigwam of a rich cliief would be lined with beaver-skins, and, if he were very rich, his guests were seated on packs of it. Then, as now, a suitor was not the less acceptable if he came to his mistress with plenty of beaver. It was the Indians' practice to kill only two-thirds of the beaver each season, leaving a third for increase. The English hunters killed all they found, rap- idly exterminating an animal which the Indian believed to be possessed of preternatural sagacity. Our road, after crossing a nortliern spur of Sargent's Mountain, which lifts itself more than a thousand feet above the sea, led on over a succession of hills. Beyond Sargent's, Green Mountain stood unveiled, with what seemed the tiniest of cottages perched on its summit. Ere long Eagle Lake lay out- stretched at the right, but it was in the trance of winter. The painter, Church, whose favorite ground lay about due south, christened the lake, doubtless with a palmful of water from its own baptismal font. The road- M'ay is thrown across its outlet where the timbers of an old mill, that some time ago had gorged itself with the native forest, lay rotting and overthrown. Green Mountain overpeers all the others. On its summit you are fifteen hundred and thirty-five feet higher than the sea. On this account it was se- lected as a landmark for the survey of the neighboring coasts. It is not dif- ficult of ascent, as the mountain road built by the surveyors is considered practicable for carriages nearly or quite to the top. I had anticipated as- cending it, but the new-fallen snow rendered walking difficult, and I was forced to content myself with viewing it from all sides of approach. An acquaintance with the sierras of either half of the continent exercises a restraining influence in presence of an upheaval comparatively slight, yet it is only in a few favored instances that one may stand on the summits of very high mountains and look down upon the sea. New England, indeed, boasts greater elevations at some distance from her sea -coast, among which the Mount Desert peaks would appear dwarfed into respectable hills. On a clear day, and under conditions peculiarly favorable, a distant glimpse of Katah- din and of Mount Washington may be had from the crest of Green Mount- ain. In summer the little house is open for the refreshment of weary but ad- venturous pilgrims. Here I would observe that the island nomenclature is painfully at variance with whatever is suggestive of felicitous rapport with its natural character- istics. The name of Mount Desert, it is true, is singularly appi-opriate ; but then it was given by a Frenchman with an eye for truth in picturesqueness. In the year 1796, when the north half of the island was formed into a town- ship, it was called, with sublimated irony, Eden. Green Mountain is not more green than its neighbors. At the Ovens I saw plenty of yeast, but not enough to leaven the name. Schooner Head is not more apposite. CHRISTMAS ON MOUNT DESERT. 43 VIEW OF EAGLE LAKE AND THE SEA FKOM GREEN MOUNTAIN. Just before coming into Bar Harbor there is an excellent opportunity of observing the cluster of islands to which it owes existence. These are the Porcupine group, and beyond, across a broad bay, the Gouldsborough hills appeared in a Christmas garb of silvery whiteness. The Porcupine Islands, four in number, lie within easy reach of the shore, Bar Island, the nearest, be- ing connected with the main-land at low ebb. On Bald Porcupine General Fremont has pitched his head-quarters. It was the sea that was fretful when I looked at the islands, though they bristled with erected pines and cedars. The village at Bar Harbor is the sudden outgrowth of the necessities of a population that comes with the roses, and vanishes with the first frosts of au- tumn. It has neither form nor comeliness, tiiough it is admirably situated for excursions to points on the eastern and southern shores of the island as fiir as Great Head and Otter Creek. A new hotel was building, notwithstand- ing the last season had not proved as remunerative as usual. I saw that pure water was brought to the harbor by a wooden aqueduct that crossed the val- ley on trestles, after the manner practiced in the California mining regions, and there called a flume. There is a beach, with good bathing on both sides of the landing, though the low temperature of the water in summer is hardly calculated for invalids. From Bar Harbor, a road conducts by the shore, southerly, as fir as Gi-eat Head, some five miles distant. After following this route for a long mile, 44 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. CLIFFS ON BALD POKCUPINE. as it seemed, it divides, the road to the right leading on five miles to Otter Creek, and thence to North-east Harbor, seven miles beyond. Excursions to Great Head, and to Newport Mountain and Otter Creek, should occupy sepa- rate days, as the shores are extremely interesting, and the scenery unsurpass- ed in the whole range of the island. In pursuing his explorations at or near low-water mark, it will be best for CHRISTMAS ON MOUNT DESERT. 45 the tourist to begin a ramble an hour before the tide has fully ebbed. The tides on this coast ordinarily rise and fall about twelve feet, and in winter, as I saw, frequently eighteen feet. Hence the advance and retreat of the waves is not only rapid, but leaves a broader margin uncovered than in Massachu- setts Bay, where there is commonly not more than eight feet of rise and fall. In many places along the arc of the shore stretching between Bar Harbor and Great Head, the ascent to higher ground is, to say the least, difficult, and, in some instances, progress is forbidden by a beetling cliff or impassable chasm. As time is seldom carefully noted when one is fairly engaged in such investigations, it is always prudent first to know your ground, and next to keep a wary eye upon the stealthy approach of the sea. SOUTHERLY END OF NEWPORT MOUNTAIN, NEAR THE SAND BEACH. There is a pleasant ramble by the shore to Cromwell's Cove; but here on- ward movement is arrested by a cliff that turns you homeward by a cross- path through the fields to the road, after having whetted the appetite for what is yet in reserve. Schooner Head is reached by this road in about four miles from Bar Har- bor, and three from the junction of the Otter Creek road. I walked it easily in an hour. The way is walled in on the landward side by the abrupt preci- pices of Newport Mountain, in the sheer face of which stunted firs are niched here and there. Very mucli they soften the hard, unyielding lines and cold 46 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. gray of the crags; the eye lingers kindly on their green chapleta cast about the frowning brows of wintry mountains. This morning all were Christmas- trees, and the ancients of the isle hung out their banners to greet the day. Emerging from the woods at a farm-house at the head of a cove, a foot- path leads to the jDromontoiy at its hither side. It is thrust a little out from the land, sheltering the cove while itself receiving the full onset of the sea. An intrusion of white rock in the seaward face is supposed by those of an im- aginative turn to bear some resemblance to a schooner; and, in order to com- plete the similitude, two flag-staffs had been erected on the top of the cliff. At best, I fancy it will be found a phantom ship to lure the mariner to de- struction. I did not find Schooner Head so remarkable for its height as in the evi- dences everywhere of the crushing blows it has received while battling with storms. "Hard pounding this, gentlemen; but we shall see who can pound longest," said the Iron Duke at Waterloo. Here are the rents and ruins of ceaseless assault and repulse. The ocean is slowly but steadily advancing on both sides of the continent ; perchance it is, after all, susceptible of calcula- tion how long the land shall endure. I clambered among the huge blocks of granite that nothing less than steam could now have stirred, although they had once been displaced by a few drops of water acting together. A terrible rent in the east side of the cliff is locally known as the Spouting Horn. Down at its base the sea has worn through the rock, leaving a low arch. At the flood, with sufticient sea on, and an off-shore wind, a wave rolls in through the cavity, mounts the escarpment, and leaps high above the opening with a roar like the booming of heavy ordnance. These natural curiosities are not unfrequent along the CAVE OP THE SEA, SCnoONEB HEAD. CHRISTMAS ON MOUNT DESERT. 47 coast. There is one of considerable power at Cape Arundel, Maine, that I have heard when two miles from the spot. Unfortunately for the tour- ist, these grand displays are usual- ly in storms, when few care to be abroad ; undoubtedly, the outward man may be protected and the in- ward exalted at such times. Some of the more adventurous go through the Horn : I went around it. 1 saw here a few ruminant sheej) gazing off upon the sea. What should a sheep see in the ocean? On the forther side of the cove is a sea-cavern that has the reputation of being the finest on the island. Within its gloomy recesses are rock pools of rare interest to the natural- ist. In proper season they will be found inhabited by the sea-anemone and other and more debatable forms of animal life. Some of these aquaria I have seen are of marvelous beauty, recalling the lines, "Full man J' a gem of purest ray serene The dark unfathomed caves of ocean bear." Lined with mother-of-pearl and scar- let mussels, resting on beds of soft sponge or purple moss -tufts, these fiiiry grottoes are the favorite retreat of King Crab and his myrmidons, of the star-fish and sea-urchin. Twice in every twenty-four hours the basins are refilled with pure sea-water, than Avhich nothing can be more transpar- ent. Strange that these rugged crags, where the grasp of man would be loos- ened by the first wave, should be in- stinct with life ! It reqniied some force to detach a mussel from its bed, and you must have recourse to your knife to remove the barnacles with CLIFFS AT SCHOONER HEAD. 48 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. DEVIL 6 DEN AND SCHOONEK HEAD. which the smootlier rocks are incrusted. John Adams, Avhen he first saw the sea-anemone, compared it, in figure and feeling', to a young girl's breast. Mount Desert has been fiimiliar to two of the greatest of American natu- ralists. When Audubon Avas preparing his magnificent "Birds of America," he visited the island, and I have no doubt the report of his rifie was often heard echoing among the mountains or along the shores. Agassiz was also here, interrogating the rocks, rapping their stony knuckles with his hammer, or pressing their gaunt ribs with playful fiimiliarity. Audubon died in 1851. Agassiz is more freshly i-emembered by the jjresent generation, to whom he made the pathway of Natural Science bright by his genius, and pleasant, by his genuine, whole-hearted bonhomie. In 1858 the French Government devoted itself, with extreme solicitude, to the reorganization of the administration of the Museum of Natural History of the Jardin des Plantes at Paris. It appears that, in spite of a first refusal, several times repeated, Agassiz at length consented to accept the direction of the museum. The Emperor, who had formed a personal acquaintance Avith the celebrated naturalist during his sojourn in Switzerland, pursued with cus- tomary pertinacity his favorite idea of alluring M, Agassiz to Paris. He was offered a salary of twenty-five thousand francs ; and it was understood he was promised, besides, elevation to the dignity of senator, of which the ap- pointments were worth twenty-five thousand francs more. CHRISTMAS ON MOUNT DESERT. 49 I have thought it fitting to give Agassiz's own report of his first introduc- tion to an American public : "When I came to Boston," said he, "the first course which I gave had five thousand auditors, and I was obliged to divide them into two sections of twenty-five hundred each, and to repeat each lesson. This course was given in the large hall of the Tremont Temple." " Do you think," he was asked, " that in such a crowd it was the fashion or the desire for instruction which dominated ?" " No doubt," he replied, " it Avas a serious desire for instruction, I have plenty of proofs of it coming from j^ersons belonging to the lower classes. For instance, it is usual here to accord to persons who go out to service full liberty after a certain hour in the evening, solely to go to the course of lec- tures; that is made a part of the agreement. A lady who had a very strong desire to hear rae, told me that it was impossible for her to do so. Her cook was the first informed of my announcement, took the initiative, and obtained her promise of liberty for the hour of the evening when I taught, and left her mistress to take care of the house alone. On her return she exjjlained very clearly what I had said." The slow sale of Agassiz's works in Europe decided him to pass fifteen months in the United States; and the revolution of 1848 changed this inten- tion into a purpose of permanent residence. Agassiz was tall, corpulent, bent, rather by continual study than with age. His forehead was broad, high, and a little retreating ; his countenance conspicuously Swiss, by the largeness of his features, the gravity and benevolence of his expression. His hair was gray, and little abundant. He spoke German and English with facility, but had to some extent unlearned his French. Although his conversation was without volubility, when he grew animated in talking upon great questions his ex- pression became noble and majestic. " There was in him a j-emarkable force of thought and will. He appeared like a man who makes haste slowly ; but notwithstanding the adage, no one can withhold an involuntary astonishment at the great works he has been able to achieve." Agassiz belonged to the noblesse of science and of literature. When such men die they can not be said to leave legitimate successors. Mount Desert has itself produced a man of marked usefulness in David Wasgatt Clark, D.D., a Wesleyan divine, who was elected bishop in 1864. He accomplished extensive literary labors, was intrusted with high and responsi- ble positions, and although a puny boy, the jest of his companions of a more ro- bust mould, completed nearly threescore years of a laborious and eventful life. From Schooner Head I pursued my way by the road to Great Head. And while en route I should not forget the Lynam Homestead, to which Cole, Church, Gifibrd, Hart, Parsons, Warren, Bierstadt, and others renowned in American art have from time to time resorted to enrich their studios from the abounding wealth of the neighborhood. 4. 50 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. One of the first artists to come to the island was Fisher. Church, whose name is associated with its rediscovery, did not always come for work. On one occasion, as leader of a merry party, he was lost on Beech Mountain, and passed tlie night there. With rare prevision he had provided an axe, with plenty of robes and wraps. At the foot of the mountain the carriage was sent back to the village. Church was too good a woodman not to use his axe to make a shanty of boughs, while the robes, when spread upon fragrant heaps of spruce, made excellent couches for the laugliing girls that were un- der his protection. Meanwhile consternation reigned at Soraesville. Messen- gers were sent hither and thither in haste; but no tidings arrived of the ab- sent ones until the next morning, when they entered the village as if nothing unusual had happened. Great Head is easily found. The road we have been pursuing comes to an abrupt ending at a house within a short half-mile of it. Follow the shore backward toward Schooner Head, and you will stand in presence of the bold- est headland in all New England. I saw that no foot-print but my own had lately passed that way. There was something in thus having it all to one's self. To appreciate Great Head one must stand underneath it ; but the descent, always difficult, was rendered perilous by the newly-formed ice. By dint of perseverance I at last stood upon the ledge beneath, that extends out like a platform for some distance toward deep water. It was the right stage of the tide. I looked up at the face of the cliif. It was bearded with icicles, like the Genius of Winter. Along the upper edge appeared the interlacing roots of old trees grasping the scanty soil like monster talons. Stunted birches, bent by storms, skirted its brow, and at sea add to its height. From top to bottom the face of the cliff is a mass of hard granite, overhanging its founda- tions in impending ruin, shivered and splintered as if torn by some tremen- dous explosion. I could only think of the last sketch of Delaroche. The sea rolls in great waves that overwhelm every thing within their reach. More than once I started back at the approach of one of them. Just outside the first line of breakers rode a flock of wild fowl, and occasionally the mournful cry of a loon, or shriller scream of a sea-gull, mingled with the roar of the surf. Farther out, at the distance of a mile, a wicked-looking rock and ledge was flinging off the seas, flecking its tawny flanks with foam, like a war-horse impatiently champing at his bit. Looking off from Great Head to the eastward, the main-land is perceived trending away until it loses itself in the ocean. At the extremity of this land is Schoodic Point and Mountain, with Mosquito Harbor indenting it The water between is not the true " Baye Fran9oise " of Champlain, Lescarbot, and others. The appellation belongs of right to the Bay of Fundy, perpetu- ating as it does the misadventure of Nicolas Aubri, one of the company of De Monts, who was lost in the woods there. As this is not the only historic an- GUEVT IIC\I). CHRISTMAS ON MOUNT DESERT. 53 achronism by many that may be met with on our coasts, I do not propose to quarrel with it, the less that a Frenchman was the first white here. The name lias been current for about a century, though on old French maps it is found to lie farther east. The north wind was beating down yesterday's sea, sweeping over the bil- lows, and whirling their crests far away to leeward. Along the rocks the foam lay like wool-fleeces, or was whisked about, dabbling the grim face of the clitf with creamy spots. Other headlands were mailed in ice. Mount Desert Rock is about twenty miles south-south-east of the island, and from fourteen to eighteen from the nearest land. It has a light -house, built upon naked, shapeless ledges. There is another on Baker's Island, off the entrance to Somes's Sound. Natural sea-marks, like Great Head Cliff, are preferred by mariners to artificial buoys or beacons. No one that has seen them will be likely to for- get the Pan of Matanzas, or the Cabanas of Havana. Before the excellent system inaugurated by the United States Coast Survey, trees, standing singly or in groups, often gave direction how to steer on a dangerous coast. Some- times they were lopped on one side, or made to take some peculiarity of shape that would distinguish them from all others. Thus some solitary old cedar becomes a guide-board known to all who travel on ocean highways. The next point of interest will be found at Otter Creek, which may be reached in good weather by sailing, by the direct road from Bar Harbor, al- ready mentioned, or by crossing the lower ridge of Newport Mountain from Great Head. After a last look at the sea, which was of a dingy green, and broke angri- ly as far as the eye could reach in the offing, I entered the trail that was to bring me to Otter Creek. Newport's southern peak was just overhead, its sharp protuberances made smooth by knobs of ice that resembled the bosses of a target. There reached me occasional rapid glimpses of the sea in ascending, but I walked chiefly in a dense growth that excluded all light, except when the glint of the sun through the tree-tops fell in golden bars across my way. Prostrate and use- lessly rotting was wood enough to have kept a good-sized village through the winter. The air was light and elastic. I do not think a pleasanter ram- ble is to be had on the island than this forest-walk. "O'er windy hill, through clogged ravine, And woodland paths that wound between Low drooping pine-boughs winter-weighed." At Otter Creek is a scattered settlement and an inlet of the sea, into which the creek empties. The island traditions say the place was once the favorite retreat of the otter. There are cliffs to admire or study on the sea- shore, and Thunder Cave is there to explore. 54 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. In this pocket-edition of Somes's Sound we find ourselves once more under the shadow of Green Mountain, and upon looking back up the valley a pass opens between it and Newport, through which the road finds its way to Bar Harboi'. The dwellings here, as elsewhere on the island, are humble, and bespeak, in many instances, a near approach to poverty. In the larger villages there are comfortable and even substantial residences, but the impression of un- thrift is associated with the proper population. The reasons are obvious. The first inhabitants got their livelihood by fishing, and formerly many ves- sels were fitted out from the Sound. Perhaps not a few went for the Govern- ment bounty. With the failure of this industry little was left on which to depend, A scanty subsistence at most could be wrung from the soil, tliough Williamson, the historian of Maine, avers this was once strong and fertile in the valleys. The land, by the removal of crops without restoring the ele- ments essential to it, has been growing poorer year by year. A little hay is cut on the uplands, and at Pretty Marsh are some hundreds of acres of salt meadow, Tlic mountains have been stripped of their wood to the last mer- chantable tree. At this unpromising juncture the island became suddenly famous, and is now among the most frequented of American summer resorts. None could be more astonished at their own prosperity than these islanders, who, being, as a whole and in a marked degree, incapable of appreciating the grandeur of the scenes Avith which they have from infancy been fiimiliar, look with scarce concealed disdain upon the admiration they inspire in others. Some handsome cottages have already sprung out of the prevailing ugli- ness at Bar Harbor. At Great Head a tract of considerable extent has been inclosed. The star of Mount Desert is clearly in the ascendant, as, however prudent the city man may be at home, all purse-strings are loosened at the sea-side. The French proverb, ''''II faut faire ou se taire,'''' is usually con- strued into the modern barbaric " play or pay" at the shore. Not one of these worthy landlords was ever known to fall, like Vatel, on his own sword be- cause there was not enough roast meat. Nevertheless, at the risk of for- feiting the reader's good opinion, I will say that there are landlords with consciences, and I have both seen and spoken with such on Mount Desert. Another of my excursions, which afforded new entertainment with ncM" scenes, was a pedestrian jaunt from Otter Creek to North-east Harbor. Tliis route commands fine ocean views in the direction of the entrance to the Sound and of the outlying islands. You first open Seal Cove, and, crossing the shingle road at its head, in two miles and a half of farther progress skirt- ing the eastern shore of the Sound, arrive at the head of North-east Harboj-, an inconsiderable village, in which AVilliamson conjectures La Saussaye final- ly landed. Seven miles more along the eastern base of Brown's Mountain, in the sombre shadows of which the road nestles, brings us back to the tavern door CHRISTMAS ON MOUNT DESERT. 55 at Somesville. This road crosses a limb of Hadlock"^ Pond, and is skirted for some distance by a fine grove of beeches. In sum- mer-time tliis part of the route is traversed under a canopy of overarchinii branches, whose dense fo- liage excludes all but a few straggling rays that let fall a shimmer of de- licious sunlight, for the moment glorifying all thai pass beneath. It may chance that the visitor will first pass over the section already trav- ersed in these jiages ; or it may so fall out that he will decide to undertake a run by the shore north of Bar Harbor in advance of oth- er excursions. In this case Saulsbury's Cove and the "Ovens" become his ob- jective. I have already fore- warned the reader that it is six or seven miles from any initial point to any other given point on Mount Desert Island, This equal- ity of distance sometimes makes a choice embarrass- ing, since in selecting from two routes the preference is usually given to the shorter. But it will some- times happen that he will find these longer than stat- ute miles, or that when pursuing his way with all THE OVENS, SAULsliLKl S CUNli. 56 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. imaginable confidence, it is suddenly blocked by a mountain or a precipice. These contingencies make walking preferable. A horse is no doubt a very useful animal where there are roads. It is practicable at low tide to reach the Ovens by the beach, but as this involves many difficulties, it is better to take the road beyond. Hull's Cove, two miles from Bar Harbor. The cove is said to have been named for a brother of General William Hull. It was resorted to quite early in the set- tlement of the island. Here was the dwelling - place of the Gregoires, to whom Massachusetts ceded the whole island upon proof, exhibited in 1787, that Madame Gregoire was the lineal descendant of Cadillac, who claimed under his grant from Louis XIV. in 1688.' The meditative reader may ponder upon this resumption under a French title as an evidence that time at last makes all things even. It would not seem inapproijriate, inasmuch as two women have had so prominent a share in the history of Mount Desert, to perpetuate the names of Guercheville and Gregoire. The graves of the Gregoires may be seen near the north-east corner of the burial-ground. Monsieur is asserted to have been a hon-vivant. The Ovens are caverns hollowed out by the waves in the softer masses of the cliffs. When the tide is completely down a pebbly beach shelves away to low-water mark. The feldspar and porphyry of which the rocks are com- posed impart a cheerfulness to the walls of these grottoes more pleasing after descending into the gloomy recesses of the south shore. Near the Ovens is a passage driven through a projecting cliff, known as Via Mala. In passing, the reader will give me leave to mention another woman whose influence was felt in the affairs of Acadia. It was Henrietta, Duchesse d'Or- leans, and aunt of Louis XIV., who obtained the relinquishment of Acadia by her husband, Charles I. of unfortunate memory, under the peace of 1632, The iate of the widowed queen is involved in one of the most repulsive chapters of history. According to contemporary accounts, she fell a victim to the reign of the poisoners in the time of Louis. By the testimony of the Marquis Dangeau and other annalists of the times, the poison had been sent by the Chevalier De Lorraine, her lover, then in England. The reader may now complete the circuit of the island at leisure. In tak- ing leave of these hills, I would observe that although not every one is pos- sessed of a knowledge of woodcraft, or of the muscles of a mountaineer, it is far better to depart the beaten paths and to seek out new conquests. For my own part, I may safely guarantee that in finding himself for the first time on Mount Desert, the visitor will be as thoroughly surprised as impressed in the presence of natural scenes so pronounced in character, and so unique in their relation to and environment by the sea. * See Williamson, vol. i., p. 79; "Resolves of Massachusetts," July and November, 1787; "New York Colonial Documents," vol. ix., p. 594. Mr. De Costa has given a summary of these in his pleasant little book. CHRISTMAS ON MOUNT DESERT. 51 In mv way to and from this remote corner of New England, it was my fortune to encounter a single instance of that inquisitorial propensity known the world over as Yankee curiosity. On arriving at a late hour at Ellsworth, the landlord, a great burly fellow, drew a chair close to mine, pushed his hat hack from his brows — every body here wears his hat in the house — spat in the grate, smote his knees with his big palms, and said, " Look a here, mister ! I know 'tan't none o' my business ; but what might you be agoin' to Mount Desart arter?" And in the same breath, "I'm from Mount Desart." "Certes," thought I, " if it's none of your business, why do you ask?" The same publican afterward let a fellow- wayfarer and myself a sick horse that proved unfit to travel when we were well upon our journey. I forgave him all but the making me the unwilling instrument of his cruelty to a dumb beast. CASTINE, APPROACHING FROM ISLESBOKO. CHAPTER IV. CASTINE. "A winrl came up out of the sea, And said, 'O mists, make room for me.'" Longfellow. WHOEVER has turned over the pages of early New England history can not foil to have had his curiosity piqued by the relations of old French writers respecting this extreme outpost of French empire in America. Tlie traditions of the existence of an ancient and populous city, going far beyond any English attempt in this corner of the continent, are of themselves suf- ficient to excite the ardent pursuit of an antiquary, and to set all the busy hives of historical searchers in a buzz of excitement. That scoffer, Lescarbot, would dispose of the ancient city of Norumbega as Voltaire Avould have disposed of the Christian religion — with a sarcasm; but, if there be truth in the apothegm that " seeing is believing," the fore- runners of Cliamplain came, saw, and made a note of it. " Now," says the ad- vocate, "if that beautiful city was ever in nature, I should like to know who demolished it; for thei'e are only a few cabins here and there, made of poles and covered Avith the bark of trees or skins ; and both habitation and river are called Pemptegoet, and not Agguncia."' I approached the famed river in a dense fog, in which the steamer cautious- ly threaded her way. Earth, sky, and water were equally indistinguishable. A volume of pent steam gushing from the pipes hoarsely trumpeted our a])- proach, and then streamed in a snow-white plume over the taffiail, and was lost in the surrounding obscurity. The decks were wet with the damps of ' Lescarbot, vol. ii., p. 471. CASTINE. 59 the morning ; the few passengers stirring seemed lifeless and unsocial. Here and there, as we floated in the midst of this cloud, the paddles impatiently beating the water, were visible the topmasts of vessels at anchor, though in the dimness they seemed wonderfully like the protruding spars of so many sunken craft. Hails or voices from them sounded preternaturally loud and distinct, as also did the noise of oars in fog-bewildered boats. The blast of a fog-horn near or far occasionally sounded a hoarse refrain to the warning that issued from the brazen throat of the Titan chained in our galley. At this instant the sun emerging from his dip into the sea, glowing with power, put the mists to flight. First they parted on each side of a broad pathway in which sky and water re-appeared. Then, before brighter gleams, they overthrew and trampled upon each other in disorderly rout. A few scattered remnants drifted into upper air and vanished; other masses clung to the shores as if inclined still to dispute the field. Owl's Head light-house came out at the call of the enchanter, blinking its drowsy eyes; then sunlit steeples and lofty spars glanced up and out of the fog-cloud that enveloped the city of Rockland. The vicinity of a town had been announced by cock-crowing, the rattling of wheels, or occasional sound of a bell from some church-tower; but all these sounds seemed to heighten the illusions produced by the fog, and to endow its impalpable mass with ghostly life. Vessels under sail appeared weird and spectral — phantom ships, that came into view for a moment and dissolved an instant after — masts, shrouds, and canvas melting away — "As cloiuls with clouds embrace." Rockland is a busy and enterprising place in the inchoate condition of comparative newness, and of the hurry that postpones all improvements not of immediate utility. Until 1848 it had no place on the map. Back of the settled portion of Rockland is a range of dark green hills, with the easy slopes and smooth contours of a limestone region. I know not if Rocklanil will ever be finished, for it is continually disemboweling itself, coining its rock foundations, until perchance it may some day be left without a leg to stand on. Penobscot Bay is magnificent in a clear day. The fastidious De Monts surveyed and passed it by. Singularly enough, the French, who searched the New England coast from time to time in quest of a milder climate and more fertile soil than that of Canada, were at last compelled to abide by their first discoveries, and inhabit a region sterile and inhospitable by comparison. Had it fallen out otherwise, Quebecs and Louisburgs might have bristled along her sea-coast, if not have changed her political destiny. Maine has her forests, her townships of lime, her granite islands, her seas of ice — all, beyond dispute, raw products. Fleets detach themselves from the banks of the Penobscot and float every year away. 60 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. "One goes abroad for merchandise and trading, Another stays to keep his country from invading, A third is coming home with rich and wealthy lading. Halloo ! my fancie, whither wilt thou go ?" The sumptuous structures we erect of her granite are only so many mon- uments to Maine. I have seen, on the other side of the continent, a town wholly built of Maine lumber. While Boston was yet smoking, her neighbor was getting ready the lumber and granite to rebuild her better than ever. So these great rivers become as mere mill-streams in the broader sense, and, at need, a telegraphic order for a town or a fleet would be promptly filled. There is no corner, however remote, into which Maine enterprise does not penetrate. The spirit of adventure and speculation has pushed its commerce everywhere. With a deck-load of lumber, some shingles, or barrels of lime, schooners of a few tons burden, and manned Avith three or four hands, may be met with hundreds of miles at sea, steering boldly on in search of a buyer. An English writer narrates his surprise at seeing in the latitude of Ilatteras, at tlie very height of a terrific storm, when the sea, wreathed with foam, was rolling before the gale, one of these buoyant little vessels scudding like a spir- it thi'ough the mingling tempest, with steady sail and dry decks, toward the distant Bahamas. Kockland was formerly a j^art of Thomaston,' and is upon ground ancient- ly covered by the Muscongus, or Waldo patent, which passed through the ownershi23 of some personages celebrated in their day. A very hvief resume of this truly seignorial possession will assist the reader in forming some idea of the state of the old colonial magnates. It will also account to him for the names of the counties of Knox and Lincoln. Prior to the P\'ench Revolution there were distinctions in society after- ward unknown, the vestiges of colonial relations. Men in office, the wealthy, and above all, those who laid claim to good descent, were the gentry in the country. Habits of life and personal adornment were outward indica- tions of superiority. The Revolution drove the larger number of this class into exile, but there still continued to be, on the patriots' side, well-defined ranks of society. There was also a class who held large landed estates, in imitation of the great proprietors of England. These persons formed a coun- try gentry, and were the great men of their respective counties. They held civil and military offices, and Avere members of the Great and General Court. The Muscongus patent was granted by the Council of Plymouth, in 1630, to John Beauchamp of London, and John Leverett of Boston, England. It embraced a tract thirty miles square, extending between the Muscongus and Penobscot, being limited on the west and north by the Kennebec patent, ' Named for General John Thomas, of the Revolution. CASTINE. Gl mentioned hereafter as granted to our colony of Ph'mouth. Besides Rock- land and Thomaston, the towns of Belfast, Camden, Warren, and Waldoboro are witliin its former bounds. In 1719 the Muscongus grant was divided for the purpose of settlement into ten shares, the ten proprietors assigning two- thirds of it to twenty as- sociates. I have examined the stiff" black-letter parch- ment of 1719, and glanced at its pompous formalities. At this time there was not a house between George- town and Annapolis, ex- cept on Damariscove Isl- and.' The Waldo family be- came in time the largest owners of the patent. Samuel Waldo, the brig- adier, was the intimate friend of Sir William Pep- perell, with whom he had served at Louisburg. They were born in the same year, and died at nearly the same time. Their friendship was to have perpetuated itself by a match between Han- nah, the brigadier's daugh- ter, and Andrew, the son of Sir William. After a deal of courtly correspond- ence that plainly enough foreshadows the bitter disappointment of the old friends, Hannah refused to marry Andrew, the scape-grace. In six weeks she gave her hand, a pretty one, 'tis said, to Thomas Flucker, and with it went a nice large slice of the patent. Flucker became the last secretary, under crown rule, of Massachusetts. He decamped with his friends the royalists, in 1776, but his daughter, Lucy, remained behind, for she had given her heart to Henry Knox, the handsome young book-seller of colonial Boston, the trusted friend whom Washington caressed Avith tears when parting from his com- rades of the deathless little army of '76. The old brigadier fell dead of apoplexy at the feet of Governor Pownall, while in the act of pointing out to him the boundary of his lands. Mrs. Knox, the artillerist's wife, inherited a portion of the AValdo patent, and her GENEKAL HENKY KNOX. ' Williamson's "Histoiy of Maine." 62 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. liusband, after the Revolution, acquired the residue by purchase. Here his troubles began ; but I can not enter upon them. He built an elegant mansion at Thomaston, which he called Montpelier.' The house has been demolished by the demands of the railway, for which one of its outbuildings now serves as a station. General Knox involved in his personal difficulties his old comrade, General Lincoln, though not quite so badly as Mi\ Jefferson would make it appear in liis letter to Mr. Madison, in which he says, "He took in General Lin- coln for one hundred and fifty thou- sand dollars, which breaks him." The same writer has also recorded his opinion that Knox was a fool; but the resentments of Mr. Jefferson are known to have outrun his under- standing. Through the embarrass- ments incurred by liis friendship, General Lincoln became interested in the Waldo patent. Lincoln was about five feet nine, so extremely corpulent as to seem He woie his hair unpowdered, combed back from his forehead, and gathered in a long cue. He had a full, round face, light complexion, and blue eyes. His dress was usually a blue coat, and buff stnall-clothes. An enormous cocked hat, as indis])cnsnble to an old of- ficer of the Revolution as to the Little Corporal, or as tlie capita] to the Corin- thian column, completed his attire. He had been wounded in the leg in the battles with Burgoyne, and always wore boots to conceal the deformity, as Knox concealed his mutilated hand in a handkerchief. This old soldier, Lincoln, who had passed very creditably through the Revolution, was, like the fat boy in "Pickwick," afflicted with somnolency. In the old Hingham church, in conversation at table, and it is affirmed also while driving himself in a chaise, he would fall sound asleep. During his campaign against Shays and the Massachusetts insurgents of 1786, he snored and dictated between sentences. He considered this an infirmity, and his friends never ventured to speak to him of it. Another charming picture is the approach to the Camden Hills. I saw llieir summits peering above fog -drifts, flung like scarfs of gossamer across their breasts. Heavier masses sailed along the valleys, presenting a series of ever -shifting, ever- dissolving views, dim and mysterious, with transient GENERAL BENJAMIN LINCOLN. much shorter than he really was ' Jefferson had his Monticello, "Washington his Mount Vernon. CASTINE. 63 glimpses of church-spires and white cottages, or of the tops of trees curiously- skirting a fog -bank. Sometimes you caught the warm color of the new- mown hill-sides, or the outlines of nearer and greener swells. These hills are a noted landmark for seamen, and the last object visible at sea in leaving the Penobscot. The highest of the Megunticook peaks rises more than fourteen hundred feet, commanding an unsurpassed view of the bay. After touching at Camden, the steamer continued her voyage. The ge- nial warmth of the sun, with the beauty of the panorama unrolled before them, had brought the passengers to the deck to gaze and admire. I chanced on one family group making a lunch off a dry -salted fish and crackers, the females eating with good appetites. Near by was a German, breakfasting on a hard-boiled egg and a thick slice of black bread. My own compatriots pre- ferred the most indigestible of pies and tarts, with pea-nuts d discretion. Rel- ics of these repasts were scattered about the decks. The good-humor and jollity that had returned with a few rays of sunshine led me to think on the depression caused by the long nights of au Arctic winter, as related by Frank- lin, Parry, Kane, and Hayes. A greeting to the sun ! May he never cease to shine where I walk or lie ! Driving her sharp prow onward, the boat soon entered Belfast Bay. Many vessels, some of them ftilly rigged for sea, --^j ^^^m --^ '^^^^^^w^^ were on the stocks ;| ^^^ in the ship -yards of Belfast. The Duke of Rochefoucauld Li- ancourt, during his visit in 1797, noticed that some houses were painted. The town then contained the only church in the Waldo patent. As might be inferred, the name is from Belfast, Ireland !' The bay begins to contract above Camden, bringing its shores within the meaning of a noble river. Indeed, as far as I ascended it, the Penobscot will not lose by comparison with the Hudson. The river is considered to begin at Fort Point, the site of Governor Pownall's fort. Above the flow of tide- M^ater its volume decreases, for the Penobscot does not drain an extensive region like the St. Lawrence, nor has it such a reservoir at its source as the Kennebec. At Orphan Island the river divides into two channels, making ' Its Indian name was Passageewakeag — " the place of sights, or gliosis." It contained origi- nally one thousand acres, which the settlers bought of the heirs of Brigadier Waldo at two shillings the acre. Belfast was the first incorporated town on the Penobscot. It suft'ered severely in the Kevolution from the British garrison of Castine. ..^-^feaess^ FORT POINT. 64 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. a narrow pass of extreme beauty and picturesqueness between the island and the western shore. Nowhere else, except in the Vineyard Sound, have I seen such a movement of shipping as here. A fleet of coasters were standing wing and wing through the Narrows. Tow-boats, dragging as many as a dozen heavy-laden lumbermen outward-bound, came puffing down the stream. As they entered the broad reach near Fort Point, one vessel after another hoist- ed sail and dashed down the bay. The Narrows are commanded by Fort Knox, opposite Bucksport.* In coming out of Belfast we approached Brigadier's Island, from which the forest had wholly disappeared. General Knox, whose patent covered all islands Avithin three miles of the shore, offered three thousand dollars to the seven farmers who then occupied it, in land and ready money, to relinquish their possession. Vessels were formerly built on the island, and it was fa- mous for its plentiful supplies of salmon. In old times a family usually took from ten to sixty barrels in a season, which brought in market eight dollars the barrel. The fish were speared or taken in nets. Owners of jutting points made great captures. The shores of the river are seen fringed with weirs. Salmon, shad, ale- wives, and smelts are taken in proper season, the crops of the sea succeeding each other with the same certainty as those of the land. Before the begin- ning of the century salmon had ceased to be numerous. Their scarcity Avas imputed to the Penobscot Indians, Avho destroyed them by fishing every day in the year, including Sundays. This king among fishes formerly frequented the Kennebec, the Merrimac, and were even taken in Ipswich River, and the small streams flowing into Massachusetts Bay. From Belfast I crossed the bay by Islesboro to Castine. I confess I look- ed upon this famous peninsula, crowned with a fortress, furrowed with the in- trenchments of forgotten wars, deserted by a commerce once considerable, lit- tle frequented by the jDresent generation, with an interest hardly inferior to that stimulated by the associations of any spot of ground in New England. The peninsula of Castine presents to view two eminences with regu- lar outlines, of which the westernmost is the most commanding. Both are smoothly rounded, and have steep though not difficult ascents. The present town is built along the base and climbs the declivity of the eastern hill, its principal street conducting from the water straight up to its crest, surmount- ed by the still solid ramparts of Fort George. The long occupation of the peninsula has nearly denuded it of trees. Its external aspects belong rather to the milder types of inland scenery than to the rugged grandeur of the near sea-coast. Passing by a bold promontory, on which the light-tower stands, the tide ^ In 1797 there were twenty vessels owned in Penobscot River, two of which were in Euro- pean trade. CASTINE. 65 carries you swiftly tlirougli the Narrows to tlie anchorage before the town. Ships of any chiss may be carried into Castine, while its adjacent waters would furnish snug harbors for fleets. You have seen, as you glided by the shores, traces, more or less distinct, of the sovereignty of Louis XIV., of George III., and of the republic of the United States. Puritans and Jesuits, Huouenots and Papists, kings and commons, have all schemed and striven for the possession of this little corner of land. Ilichelieu, Mazavin, and Colbert have plotted for it ; Thurloe, Clarendon, and Bolingbroke have counter-plot- ted. It has been fought over no end of times, conquered and reconquered, and is now of no more political consequence than the distant peak of Ka- tahdin. There is very little appearance of business about Castine. It is delight- fully lethargic. Few old houses of earlier date than the Revolution remain to give the place a character of antiquity conformable with its history. Nev- ertheless, there are pleasant mansions, and cool, well-shaded by-ways, quiet and still, in which the echo of your own footfall is the only audible sound. The peninsula, which the inhabitants call the " Neck," in distinction from the larger fraction of the town, is of small extent. You may ramble all over it in an afternoon.^ If it is a good maxim to sleep on a weighty matter, so it is well to dine before forming a judgment of a place you are visiting for the first time. Having broken bread and tasted salt, you believe yourself to have acquired some of the rights of citizenship ; and if you have dined well, are not indis- posed to regard all you may see with a genial and not too critical an eye. Upon this conviction I acted. At the tavern, the speech of the girl who waited on the table was impeded by the gum she was chewing. While she was repeating the carte, the only words I was able to distinguish were, "Raw fish and clams." As I am not partial to either, I admit I was a little disconcerted, until a young man at my elbow interpreted, sotto voce, the jargon into "Corned fish and roast lamb." At intervals in the repast, the waiting -girl would run into the parlor and beat the keys of the piano, until recalled by energetic pounding upon the table with the haft of a knife. Below stairs I was present at a friendly al- tercation between the landlord and maid of all work, as to whether the towel for common use had been hanging a week or only six days. But " travelers," says Touchstone, " must be content ;" and he was no fool though he Avore motley. I ascended the hill above the town on which the Normal School is situ- ated, and in a few moments stood on the parapet of Fort George. And per- haps in no part of New England can a more beautiful and extensive view be had with so little trouble. It was simply enchanting. Such a combination ^ The upper ami larger part is called North Castine. 66 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. of land and water is seldom embraced within a single coiq) (Poeil. The vis- ion is bounded by those portals of the bay, the Camden range on the south- west, and the heights of Mount Desert in the east. A little north of east is the solitary Blue Hill, with the windings and broad reaches of water by which Castine proper is nearly isolated from the main-land. Turning still northward, and now with your back to the town, you perceive Old Fort Point, where, in 1759, Governor Pownall built a work to command the entrance to the river. Farther to the westward is Brigadier's Island, and the bay expanding three leao-ues over to Belfast. VIEW FROM FORT GEORGE. Fort George, a square, bastioned work, is the best preserved earth-work of its years in New England. A few hours would put it in a very tolerable con- dition of defense. The moat, excavated down to the solid rock, is intact; the esplanade hardly broken in outline. The position of the barracks, magazine, and guard-house may be easily traced on the parade, though no buildings now remain inside the fortress. The approach on three sides is by a steep ascent; especially is this the case on the side of the town. Each bastion was pierced with four embrasures. The position was of great strength, and would have been an ugly place to carry by escalade. A matter of a few hours once determined the ownership of Castine for England or the Colonies in arms. Now let us take a walk over to the more elevated summit Avest of Fort George. Here are also evidences of military occupation in fast-perishing em- bankments and heaps of beach pebbles. What are left of the lines look over toward the English fort and the cove between it and the main -land. A broad, level plateau of greensward extends between the two summits, over which neither you nor I would have liked to walk in the teeth of rattling volleys of musketry. Yet such things have been on this very hill-top. The story of these fortifications is drawn from one of the most disgraceful chapters of the Revolutionary war. It is of a well- conceived enterprise brought to a disastrous issue through incapacity, discord, and blundering. There are no longer susceptibilities to be wounded by the relation, though for many years after the event it was seldom spoken of save with min- gled shame and indignation. Little enough is said of it in the newspapers of the time, for it was a terrible blow to Massachusetts pride, and struck home. CASTINE. 67 In June, 1779, Colonol Francis M'Lean was sent from Halifax with nine hundred men to seize and fortify the peninsula, then generally known as Penobscot.' He landed on the 12th of June, and with the energy and de- cision of a good soldier began the work of estab- lishing himself firmly in his position. In the British ranks was one notable combat- ant, Captain John Moore, of the Fifty-first foot, who fell under the walls of Co- runna while commanding the British army in Spain. As his military career be- gan in America, I may narrate an incident illus- trating his remarkable popularity with his sol- diers. In lYQBjatEgmont- op-zee, the Ninety-second fiercely charged a French brigade. A terrific melee ensued, in which the French were forced to retreat. In the midst of the combat two soldiers of the Ninety-second discovered Gen- eral Moore lying on his face, apparently dead ; for he was wounded and uncon- scious, " Here is the general ; let us take him away," said one of them, and, suiting the action to the word, they bore him to the rear. The general offer- ed a reward of twenty pounds ; but could never discover either of the sol- diers who had aided him. Moore's death inspired Wolfe's admired lines, pronounced by Lord Byron " the most perfect ode in the language :" jlK JOUN MOOKE. "Not a drum was heard, not a funeral note, As his corpse to the rampart we hurried; Not a soldier discharged his farewell shot O'er the grave where our hero we buried." "Moore," said Napoleon, "was a brave soldier, an excellent officer, and a man of talent. He made a few mistakes, inseparable, perhaps, from the diffi- culties with which he was surrounded." Beinir reminded that Moore was al- ' Castine was not incorporated under its present name until IT'JG. The Indian name of the peninsula was Bagaduce, or Biguyduce. 68 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. ways in tlie front of battle, and generally unfortunate enougli to he wounded, he added, "Ah ! it is necessary sometimes. He died gloriously ; he died like a soldier." Great alarm was produced by M'Lean's bold das]). Immediate applica- tion was made to Massachusetts, of whicli Maine still formed a part, for aid to expel the invader. Hancock was then governor. General Gates commanded the Eastern Department, with head-quarters at Providence. The Mas- sachusetts rulers put their heads together, FOKT GRIFFITH. ^^^^^^ thiukiug On the brilliant achievement of their fathers at Louisburg in 1745, resolved to em- ulate it. They raised a large land and naval force with the utmost ex- pedition, laying an embargo for forty days in order to man their fleet with sailors. General Gates was neither consulted nor applied to for the Con- tinental troops under his orders.' The Massachusetts armament appeared oif Penobscot on the 25th of July. The army was commanded by Solomon Lovell, the fleet by Captain Salton- stall, of the Warren, a fine new Continental frigate of thirty-two guns. Peleg Wadsworth was second in command to Lovell ; Paul Revere, whom Longfel- low has immortalized, had charge of the artillery. The land forces did not mimber more than twelve hundred men, but might be augmented to fifteen hundred or more with marines from the fleet. These troops were militia, and had only once paraded together under arms. The flotilla was formidable in appearance and in the number of guns it carried, but lacked unity and dis- cipline quite as much as the army. Plenty of courage and plenty of means do not make soldiers or win battles. M'Lean had received intelligence of the sailing of the Massachusetts ar- mada. His fort was not yet capable of defense. Two bastions were not be- gun ; the two remaining, with the curtains, had not been raised more than four or five feet, and he had not a single gun mounted. Captain Mowatt of detestable memory,* with three British vessels of small force, was in the har- bor. He took a position to prevent a landing on the south side of the penin- sula. A deep trench was cut across the isthmus connecting with the main- , for dollar, accounting one of Master Hull's /^^.oo^.,^-^ /1^S*"^^^% pine-tree shillings at a shilling. The store- /\^i^^||js?t?^\|ra5|f^^*^ ^S^l*^'^ keepers readily accepted the exchange at \^}S^P^i^%:^S^^]ii^ the farn^er's valuation ; but the possession \r/?A^^'^%^/ \°©/^'?°^^l'^^/ . ^^T" °° ° ^K/ % ^'W\^^ " ^ of such a priceless collection was soon betray- ^ — Zl — ''%«.,«;.>.•'•'•''*■ ed by its circulation abroad. pine-tree shilling. Dr. Joseph L. Stevens, the esteemed antiquary of Castine, of whom I had these particulars, exhibited to me a number of the coins. They would have made a numismatist's mouth water, French ecus, Portuguese and Spanish pieces-of-eight, Bremen dollars, piasters, and cob-money,' clipped and battered, with illegible dates, but melodious ring, chinked in better fellowship than the sovereigns whose effigies they bore had lived in. A single gold coin, the only one found in the neighborhood of Castine, was picked up on the beach oppo- site the fort.'^ The theory of the presence of so large a sum on the spot where it was found is that when Castin was driven from the fort by Colonel Church, in 1704, these coins were left by some of bis party in their retreat, where they remained undiscovered for more than a century and a quarter. Or it may have been the hoard of one of the two countrymen of Castin, who, he says, were living two miles from him in 1687. The detail of old Fort Pentagoet just given is believed to describe the place as it had existed since 1654, when captured by the colony forces of Mas- sachusetts. General Sedgwick then spoke of it as "a small fort, yet very strong, and a very well composed peese, with eight peese of ordnance, one ' "The clumsy, shapeless coinage, both of gold and silver, called in Mexico mdquina de papa, loteycruz ("windmill and cross-money"), and in this country by the briefer appellation of "cobs." These were of the lawful standards, or nearly so, but scarcely deserved the name of coin, being rather lumps of bullion flattened and impressed by a hammer, the edge presenting every variety of form except that of a circle, and affording ample scope for the practice of clipping : notwithstand- ing they are generally found, even to this day, within a few grains of lawful weight. They are generally about a century old, but some are dated as late as 1770. They are distinguished by a large cross, of which the four arms are equal in length, and loaded at the ends. The date general- ly omits the thousandth place; so tliat 736, for example, is to be read 1736. The letters PLVS VLTRA {plus ultra) are crowded in without attention to order. These coins were formerly brought here in large quantities for recoinage, but have now become scarce." — Williaji E. Du- bois, United States Mint. I think the name of "cob" was applied to money earlier than the date given by Mr. Dubois. Its derivation is uncertain, but was probably either "himj)," or from the Welsli, lor "thump,"' i. e., struck money. ^ On an old map of unknown date Castin's houses are located here. 76 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. brass, three murtherers, about eighteen barrels of powder, and eighteen men in garrison.'" It would require a volume to set forth in extejiso the annals of these mounds, scarce lifted above the surface of the surrounding plateau. But to arouse the reader's curiosity without an endeavor to gratify it were indeed churlish. I submit, therefore, with the brevity, and I hope also the simplicity, that should characterize the historic style, the essence of the matter as it has dropped from my alembic. The reader is referred to what is already narrated of Norumbega for the earliest knowledge of the Penobscot by white men. The first vessel that as- cended the river was probably the bark of Du Guast, Sieur de Monts, in the year 1604. De Poutrincourt was there in the year 1606.^ No establishment appears to have been begun on the Bagadnce peninsula until our colonists of New Plymouth fixed upon it for the site of a trading- post, about 1629.^ Here they erected a house, defended, probably, after the fashion of the time, with palisades, loop-holed for musketry. They were a long way from home, and had need to keep a Avary eye abroad. Governor Bradford mentions that the house was robbed by some "Isle of Rhe gentle- men" in 1632. The Plymouth people kept possession until 1635,Avhen they were dispos- sessed by an expedition sent from La Have, in Acadia, commanded by the Chevalier Charles de Menou, or, as he is usually styled, D'Aulnay Charnisay. The chevalier's orders from Razilly, who had then the general command in Canada, were to expel all the English as far as Pemaquid. Plymouth Colony endeavored to retake the place by force. A large ship for that day, the Hope, of Ipswich, England, Girling commander, was fitted out, and attacked the post in such a disorderly, unskillful manner that Gir- ling expended his ammunition before having made the least impression. Standish, the redoubtable, was there in a small bark, fuming at the incompe- tency of the commander of the Hope, who had been hired to do the job for so much beaver if he succeeded, nothing if he failed. Standish, with the beaver, returned to Plymouth, after sending Girling a new supply of powder from Pemaquid ; but no further effort is known to have been made to reduce the place. The Pilgrims then turned to their natural allies, the Puritans of the Bay ; but, as Rochefoucauld cunningly says, there is something in the misfortunes ' Sedgwit:k's Letter, Historical Magazine, July, 1873, p. 38. * Williamson thinks the name of Cape Rosier a distinct reminder of Weymouth's voyage. ' Though Hutchinson says "about 1627," I think it an error, as Allerton, the promoter of the project, was in England in that year, as well as in 162G and 1628, as agent of the colony. Nor was the proposal brought forward until Sherley and Hatherly, two of the adventurers, wrote to Gov- ernor Bradford, in 1629, tliat they had determined upon it in connection with Allerton, and in- vited Plymoiitli to join with them. CASTINE. 77 of our friends that does not displease us. They got smooth speeches in plen- ty, but no help. It is curious to observe that at this time the two colonies combined were too weak to raise and equip a hundred soldiers on a sudden call. So the French remained in possession until 1654. An attempt was made by Plymouth Colony to liberate their men cap- tured at Penobscot. Isaac Allerton was sent to demand them of La Tour, who in haughty terms refused to deliver them up, saying all the country from Cape Sable to Cape Cod belonged to the king, his master, and if the English persisted in trading east of Pemaquid he would capture them. "Will monseigneur deign to show me his commission?" The chevalier laid his hand significantly on his swordhilt. "This," said he, " is my commission." I have mentioned three Frenchmen : Sir Isaac de Razilly, a soldier of the monastic order of Malta; La Tour, a heretic; and D'Aulnay, a zealous papist. Kazilly's commission is dated at St. Germain en Laye, May 10th, 1632. He Avas to take possession of Port Royal, so named by De Monts, from its glorious harbor, and ceded to France under the treaty of 1629. This was the year after the taking of La Rochelle ; so that we are now in the times of the great cardinal and his puissant adversary, Buckingham. The knight of Malta was so well pleased with Acadia that he craved permission of the grand master to remain in the country. He was recalled, with a remindei- of the subjection exacted by that semi-military, semi-ecclesiastical body of its members. Hutchinson says he died soon after 1635. There is evidence he was alive in 1636. In 1638 Louis XIII. addressed the following letter to D'Aulnay : " You are my lieutenant-general in the country of the Etchemins, from the middle of the main-land of Frenchman's Bay to the district of Canceaux. Thus you may not change any regulation in the establishment on the River St. John made by the said Sieur De la Tour, etc."' Three years afterward the king sent his commands to La Tour to return to France immediately ; if he refused, D'Aulnay was ordered to seize his person. Whether the death of Louis, and also of his Eminence, at this time divert- ed the danger with which La Tour was threatened, is a matter of conjecture. D'Aulnay, however, had possessed himself, in 1643, of La Tour's fort, and the latter was a suppliant to the English at Boston for aid to displace his adver- sary. He obtained it, and recovered his own again, but was unable to eject D'Aulnay from Penobscot. A second attemjjt, also unsuccessful, Avas made the following year. The treaty between Governor Endicott and La Tour in this year was afterward ratified by the United Colonies. In 1645 D'Aulnay was in France, receiving the thanks of the king and queen-mother for his zeal in preserving Acadia from the treasonable designs * "Archives of Massachusetts." 78 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. of La Tour. The next yeai- a treaty of peace was concluded at Boston be- tween the English and D'Aulnay; and in 1647, the king granted him letters patent of lieutenant-general from the St. Lawrence to Acadia. He died May 24th, 1650, from freezing, while out in the bay with his valet in a canoe. La Tour finished by marrying the widow of D'Aulnay, thus composing, and for- ever, his feud with the husband.* For some years quiet reigned in the peninsula, or until 1654, when an ex- pedition was fitted out by Massachusetts against Stuyvesant and the Dutch at Manhattan. Peace having been concluded before it was in readiness, the Puritans, with true thrift, launched their armament against the unsuspect- ing Mounseers of Penobscot. Although peace also existed between Cromwell and Louis, the expenditure of much money without some gain was not to be thought of in the Bay. For a pretext, they had always the old grudge of prior right, going back to Elizabeth's patent of 1578 to Sir Humphrey Gilbert. Robert Sedgwick and John Leverett wei'e two as marked men as could be found in New England. They sailed from Nantasket on the 4th of July, 1654, with three ships, a ketch, and two hundred soldiers of Old and New England. Port Royal, the fort on St. John's River, and Penobscot, were all captured. Afterward they served the Protector in England. Sedgwick was chosen by Cromwell to command his insubordinate and starving army at Ja- maica, and died, it is said, of a broken heart, from the weight of responsibility imposed on him. Although the King of France testified great displeasure because the forts in Acadia were not restored to him, Cromwell continued to hold them fast, nor were they given up until after the treaty of Breda, Avhen Pentagoet, in 1669-70, was delivered by Sir Tliomas Temple to M, De Grand Fontaine, who, in 1673, turned over the command to M. De Chambly. On the 10th of August, 1674, M. De Chambly was assaulted by a buccaneer that had touched at Boston, where an English pilot, as M. De Frontenac says, was taken on board. An Englishman, who had been four days in the place in disguise, gave the pirates every assistance.^ They landed one hundred and ten men, and fell with fury on the little garrison of thirty badly armed and disaifected Frenchmen. After sustaining the onset for an hour, M. De Chambly fell, shot through the body. His ensign was also struck down, when the fort surrendered at discretion. The sea-robbers pillaged the fort, carried off the cannon, and conducted the Sieur De Chambly to- Boston, along with M. De Marson, whom they took in the River St. John. Chambly was put to ransom of a thousand beaver-skins. Colbert, then minister, expressed * Aglate la Tour, granddauglitev of the chevalier, sold the seigniory of Acadia to the crown for two thousand guineas. — Douglass. * ]Mr. Shea (Charlevoix) says this was John Rhoade, and the vessel the Flying Horse, Captain Jurriaen Aernouts, with a commission from the Prince of Orange. CASTINE. 19 his surprise to Frontenac that the forts of Pentagoet and Gemisee had been taken and pillaged by a freebooter. Xo rupture then existed between the crowns of England and France. Another subject of Louis le Grand now raps with his sword-hilt for admis- sion to our gallant com- pany of noble French gen- tlemen who have followed the lead of De Monts into the wilds of Acadia. Bar- on La Hontan, writing in 1683, says, "The Baron St. Castin, a gentleman of Oleron, in Bearne, having lived among the Abena- quis after the savage way for above tw^enty years, is so much respected by the savages that they look upon him as their tutelar god." Vincent, Baron St. Cas- tin, came to America with his regiment about 1665. He was ensign in the reg- iment Carignan, of w^hich Henry de Chapelas was colonel. Chambly and Sorel, who were his com- rades, have also left their names impressed on the map of New France. The colbert. regiment was disbanded, the governor-general allowing each officer three or four leagues' extent of good land, with as much depth as they pleased. The officers, in turn, gave their soldiers as much ground as they wished upon pay- ment of a crown per arjyent by way of fief.' Chambly we have seen in com- mand at Pentagoet in 1673. Castin appears to have plunged into the wilder- ness, making his abode with the fierce Abenaquis. The young Bearnese soon acquired a wonderful ascendency among them. He mastered their language, and received, after the savage's romantic fash- ion, the hand of a princess of the nation, the daughter of Madocawando, the implacable foe of the English. They made him tlieir great chief, or leader. * Estates are still conveyed in St. Louis by the arpent. 80 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. and at his summons all the warriors of the Abenaqnis gathered around him. Exercising a regal power in his forest dominions, he no doubt felt every inch a chieftain. The French governors courted him ; the English feared and hated him. In 1696, with Iberville, he overran their stronghold at Pemaquid. He fought at Port Royal in 1706, and again in 1 707, receiving a wound there. He was, says M. Denonville, of a daring and enterprising character, thirsting for distinction. In 1702 he proposed a descent on Boston, to be made in Avin- ter by a competent land and naval force. Magazines were to be formed at Piscataqua and Marblehead. It is known that some earlier passages of Castin's life in Acadia were not free from reproach. Denonville,' in recommending him to Louvois as the proper person to succeed M. Perrot at Port Royal (" si M, Perrot degoutait de son gouvernment"), admits he had been addicted in the past to riot and debauchery; "but," continues the viceroy, "I am assured that he is now quite reformed, and has very proper sentiments on the subject." Perrot, jeal- ous of Castin, put liim in arrest for six weeks for some foolish affair among l\\Qjilles of Port Royal. "For man is fire and woman is tow, And tlie Somebody comes and begins to blow." In 1086 Castin was at Pentagoet, The place must have fallen into sad neglect, for the Governor of Canada made its fortification and advantages the subject of a memoir to his Government, It became the rendezvous for proj- ects against New England. Quebec was not difficult of access by river and land to Castin's fleet Abenaquis. Port Royal was within supporting distance. The Indians interposed a barrier between English aggression and the French settlements. They were the weapon freely used by all the French rulers un- til, from long service, it became blunted and unserviceable. They were then left to shift for themselves. Here Castin continued with his dusky wife and brethren, although he had inherited an income of five million livres while in Acadia. B}'' degrees he had likewise amassed a fortune of two or three hundred thousand crowns "in good dry gold ;" but the only use he made of it Avas to buy presents for his fellow-savages, who, upon their return from the hunt, repaid him with usury in beaver-skins and peltries,* In 1688 his trading-house was plundered by the English. It is said he died in America, but of this I have not the evi- dence, Vincent de Castin never changed his wife, as the Indian customs permit- ted, wishing, it is supposed, by his example to impress upon them the sanctity ' Denonville, who sncceeded M. De la Barre as governor-general, was maitre de camp to the queen's dragoons. He was succeeded by I'rontenac, ^ Denonville's and La Hontan's letters. CASTINE. 81 of marriage as a part of the Christian religion. He had several daughters, all of whom were well married to Frenchmen, and had good dowries ; one was captured by Colonel Church in 1704, He had also a son. In 1721, during what was known as Lovewell's war, in which Mather in- timates, with many nods and winks set down in print, the English were the aggressors, Castin the younger was kidnaped, and carried to Boston a pris- oner. His offense was in attending a council of the Abenaquis in his capacity of chief. He was brought before the council and interrogated. His mien was frank and fearless. In his uniform of a French officer, he stood with true Indian sa^ig froid in the presence of men who he knew were able to deal heavy blows. "I am," said he, "an Abenaquis by my mother. All my life has been passed among the nation that has made me chief and commander over it. I could not be absent from a council where the interests of my brethren were to be discussed. The Governor of Canada sent me no ordei-s. The dress I now wear is not a uniform, but one becoming my rank and birth as an officer in the troops of the most Christian king, my master." The young baron was placed in the custody of the sheriff of Middlesex. He was kept seven months a prisoner, and then released before his friends, the Abenaquis, could strike a blow for his deliverance. This once formidable tribe was such no longer. In 1689 it scarcely numbered a hundred warriors. English policy had set a price upon the head of every hostile Indian. Castin, soon after his release, returned to the old family chateau among the Pyrenees. "The choir is singing the matin song; The doors of the church are opened wide'; The people crowd, and press, and throng To see the bridegroom and the bride. They enter and pass along the nave ; They stand upon the farthest grave ; The bells are ringing soft and slow; The living above and the dead below Give their blessing on one and twain ; The warm wind blows from the hills of Spain, The birds are building, the leaves are green, The Baron Castine of St. Castine Hath come at last to his own again." According to the French historian, Charlevoix, the Capuchins had a hos- pice here in 1646, when visited by Pere Dreuillettes. I may not neglect these worthy fithcrs, whose disputes about sleeves and cowls, Voltaire says, were more than any among the philosophers. The shrewdness of these old monks in the clioice of a location has been justified by the cities and towns sprung from the sites of their primitive missions. Here, as elsewhere, " — These black crows Had pitched by instinct on the fattest fallows." G 82 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. "I," said Napoleon, at St. Helena, "rendered all the burying- places inde- pendent of the priests. I hated friars" (/rati), "and was the aunihilator of them and of their receptacles of crime, the monasteries, where every vice was practiced with impunity. A set of miscreants" {scelerati) "who in general are a dishonor to tlie human race. Of priests I would have always allowed a sufficient number, but wo fratV^ A Capuchin, says an old dictionary of 1676, is a friar of St. Francis's order, wearing a cowl, or capouch, but no shirt nor breeches.' Opening our history at the epoch of the settlement of New France, and turning over page by page the period we have been reviewing, there is no more hideous chapter than the infernal cruelties of the Society of Jesus. Their agency in the terrible persecutions of the Huguenots is too well known to need repetition. St. Bartholomew,the broken pledge of the Edict of Nantes, the massacres of Vivarais, of Rouergue, and of Languedoc are among their monuments. The rigor with which infractions of the discipline of the order were pun- ished would be difficult to believe, if unsupported by trustworthy testimony. Francis Seldon, a young pupil of the Jesuit College at Paris, was imprisoned thirty-one years, seventeen of which were passed at St. Marguerite, and four- teen in the Bastile, His crime was a lampoon of two lines affixed to the col- lege door. A lettre cle cachet from Louis XIV. consigned this poor lad of only sixteen to the Bastile in 1674, from Avhich he only emerged in 1705, by the assignment of a rich inheritance to the Society, impiously called, of Jesus. The siege of La Rochelle, and slaughter of the Huguenots, is believed to have been nothing more than a duel between Richelieu and Buckingham, for the favor of Anne of Austria. It was, however, in the name of religion that the population of France was decimated, Colbert, in endeavoring to stem the tide of persecution, fell in disgrace. Louvois seconded with devilish zeal the projects of the Jesuits, which had no other end than the total destruction of the reformed faith. In 1675 Pere Lachaise entered on his functions of father- confessor to the king. He was powerfully seconded by his society; but they, fearing his Majesty might regard it as a pendant of St. Bartholomew, hesi- tated to press a decisive coup d'etat against the Protestants. There was at the court of Louis the widow Scarron, become De Main- tenon, declared mistress of the king, who modestly aspired to replace Marie Therese of Austria upon the throne of France. To her the Jesuits address- ed themselves. It is believed the compact between the worthy contracting parties exacted no less of each than the advancement of their mutual proj- ects through the seductions of the courtesan, and the fears for his salvation the Jesuits were to inspire in the mind of the king. Louis believed in the arguments of Madame De Maintenon, and signed the Edict of Nantes ; he ' Ciii)Ufhin, a cowl or Iiood. CASTINE. 83 ceded to the threats or counsels of his confessor, and secretly espoused Ma- dame De Maintenon. The 25th October, 1685, the royal seal was, it is not doubted by her inspiration, appended to the barbarous edict, drawn up by the P^re Le Tellier, under the auspices of the Society of Jesus.' France had already lost a hundred thousand of her bravest and most skillful children. She was now to lose many more. Among the fugitives driven from the fatherland were many who fled, as the Pilgrims had done into Holland. Some sought the New World, and their descendants were such men as John Jay, Elias Boudinot, James Bowdoin, and Peter Faneuil. Before the famous edict of 1685, the Huguenots had been forbidden to establish themselves either in Canada or Acadia. They were permitted to visit the ports for trade, but not to exercise their religion. The Jesuits took care that the edict was enforced in the French possessions. I have thought the oft-cited intolerance of the Puritans might be effectively contrasted with the diabolical zeal with which Catholic Christendom pursued the annihilation of the reformed religion. The Jesuits obtained at an early day a preponderating influence in Cana- da and in Acadia. It is believed the governor-generals had not such real power as the bishops of Quebec, At a later day, they were able well-nigh to paralyze Montcalm's defense of Quebec. The fathers of the order, with the crucifix held aloft, preached crusades against the English to the savages they were sent to convert. One of the fiercest Canabas chiefs related to an English divine that the friars told his people the blessed Virgin was a Frencli lady, and that her son, Jesus Christ, had been killed by the English.^ One might say the gray hairs of old men and the blood -dabbled ringlets of in- nocent children were laid on the altars of their chapels. We can afibrd to smile at the forecast of Louis, when he says to M. De la Barre in 1683, "I am persuaded, like you, that the discoveries of Sieur La Salle are altogether useless, and it is necessary, hereafter, to put a stop to such enterprises, which can have no other effect than to scatter the inhabit- ants by the hope of gain, and to diminish the supply of beaver." We still preserve in Louisiana the shadow of the sceptre of this monarch, whose needy successor at Versailles sold us, for fifteen millions, a territory that could pay the German subsidy with a year's harvest. Doubtless the little bell in the hospice turret, tolling for matins or vespei's, was often heard by the fisher in the bay, as he rested on his oars and repeat- ed an aye, or chanted the parting hymn of the Provenyal: "O, vierge! O, M:\vie! Pour nioi priez Dieu ; Adieu, adieu, patrie, Proven9e, adieu." ' Count Frontenac was a relative of De Maintenon. '^ Cotton IMather. 84 ■ THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. There is a pleasant ramble over the hill by the cemetery, with the same accompaniments of green turf, limpid bay, and cool breezes everywhere. Inter- mitting pulFs, ruffling the water here and there, fill the sails of coasting craft, while others lie becalmed within a few cable- lengths of them. Near the north-west corner of the ground I discovered vestiges of another small battery. Castine having assumed the functions of a town within a period compara- tively recent, her cemetery shows few interesting stones. The ancients of the little Acadian hamlet lie in forgotten graves ; no moss-covered tablets for the antiquary to kneel beside, and trace the time-worn course of the chisel, are there. Numbers of graves are indicated only by the significant heaving of the turf. In one part of the field is a large and rudely fixshioned slate-stone standing at the head of a tumulus. A tablet with these lines is aftixed: IN MEMORY OF CHARLES STEWART, The earliest occupant of this Mansion of the Dead, A Native of Scotland, And 1st Lieut. Comm. of his B. M. 74th Regt. of foot, or Argyle Highlanders, Who died in this Town, while it was in possession of the Enemy, March, A.D. 1783, And was interred beneath this stone, ^t. about 40 yrs. This Tablet was inserted A.D. 1849. The tablet has a tale to tell. It runs that Stewart quarreled with a brother officer at the mess-table, and challenged him. Hearing of the intend- ed duel, the commanding officer reprimanded the hot-blooded Scotsman in such terms that, stung to the quick, he fell, Roman-like, on his own sword. Elsewhere I read the name of Captain Isaiah Skinner, who, as master of a packet plying to the opposite shore, " thirty thousand times braved the per- ils of our bay." While I was in Castine I paid a visit to the factory in which lobsters are canned for market. A literally "smashing" business was carrying on, but with an uncleanness that for many months impaired my predilection for this delicate crustacean. The lobsters are brought in small vessels from the low- er bay. They are then tossed, while living, into vats containing salt water boiling hot, where they receive a thorough steaming. They are next trans- ferred to long tables, and, after cooling, are opened. Only the flesh of the larger claws and tail is used, the i-emainder being cast aside. The I'eserved portions are put into tin cans that, after being tightly soldered, are subjected to a new steaming of five and a half hours to keep them fresh.' In order to arrest the wholesale slaughter of the lobster, stringent laws ' Isle au Haut is particularly renowned for the size and quality of these fish. CASTINE. 85 liave been made in Maine and Massachusetts. The fishery is prohibited dur- ing certain months, and a fine is imposed for every fish exposed for sale of less than a certain growth. Of a heap containing some eight hundred lob- sters brought to the factory, not fifty were of this size ; a large proportion were not eight inches long. Frequent boiling in the same water, with the slovenly appearance of the operatives, male and female, would suggest a doubt whether plain Penobscot lobster is as toothsome as is supposed. The whole process was in marked contrast with the scrupulous neatness with which similar operations are elsewhere conducted; nor was there particular scrutiny as to whether the lobsters were already dead when received from the vessels. Wood, in the "New England Prospect," mentions that lobsters were so LOBSTER POT. plenty and little esteemed they were seldom eaten. They were frequent- ly, he says, of twenty pounds' weight. The Indians used lobsters to bait their hooks, and ate them when they could not get bass. I have seen an ac- count of a lobster that weighed thirty-five pounds. Josselyn mentions that he saw one weighing twenty pounds, and that the Indians dried them for food as they did lampreys and oysters. The first-comers into New England waters were not more puzzled to find the ancient city of Norumbega than I to reach the fabulous Down East of the moderns. In San Francisco the name is vaguely applied to the territory east of the Mississippi, though more frequently the rest of the republic is al- luded to as " The States." South of the obliterated IVIason and Dixon's line, the region east of the Alleghanies and north of the Potomac is Down East, and no mistake about it. In New York you are as far as ever from this terra incognita. In Connecticut they shrug their shoulders and point you about north-north-east. Down East, say Massachusetts people, is just across our eastern border. Arrived on the Penobscot, I fancied myself there at last. 86 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. " Whither bound ?" I asked of a fisherman, getting up his foresail before loosing from the wharf. "Sir, to you. Down East." The evident determination to shift the responsibility forbade further pur- suit of this fictitious land. Besides, Maine people are indisposed to accept without challenge the name so universally applied to them of Down Easters. We do not say down to the North Pole, and we do say down South. The higher latitude we make northwardly the farther down we get. Neverthe- less, disposed as I avow myself to present the case fairly, the people of Maine uniformly say "up to the Avestward," when speaking of Massachusetts. Of one thing I am persuaded — Down East is nowhere in New England. ULD iXIKT FliiiD£KlCK, I'ii.MAt^UID POINT. CHAPTER VI. PEMAQUID POINT. "Love thou thy land, with love far-brought From out the storied Past, and used Within the Present, but transfused Thro' future time by power of thought." Tennyson. A VERY small fraction of the people of New England, I venture to say, •^-^ know more of Pemaquid than that such a place once existed somewhere within her limits ; yet it is scarcely possible to take up a book on New En- gland in which the name does not occur with a frequency that is of itself a spur to inquiry. If a few volumes be consulted, the materials for history be- come abundant. After accumulating for two hundred years, or more, what belongs to the imperishable things of earth, this old outpost of English pow- er has returned into second childhood, and become what it originally was, namely, a fishing-village. But those who delight in ferreting through the chinks and crannies of an out-of-the-way locality, will be repaid by starting from Damariscotta on a coastwise voyage of discovery. In traveling by railway from Portland, with your face to the rising sun, you catch occasional glimpses of the ocean, and you receive imperfect impressions of the estuaries that indent her " hundred- harbored " shores ; but from the window of a stage-coach journeying at six miles an hour the material and mental eye may receive and fix ideas more dis- tinct and enduring. I reached the little village of New Harbor, at Pemaquid Point, in time to see the sun crimson in setting, a cloudless sky, and an unruflled sea. Monhe- gan Island grew of a deep purple in the twilight shadows. The tower lamps were alight, and from neighboring islands other beacons twinkled pleasantly 88 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. on the waters. Coasting vessels trimmed their sails to catch the land-breeze of evening. Then the moon arose. The little harbor beneath me contained a few small fishing-vessels at an- chor. One or two others were slow- ly working their way in. The cot- tages straggling by the shore were not numerous or noticeable. It was still some three miles to the light-house at the extremity of the point. At Bristol "THE LAND-BREEZE OF EVENING." MillS I had CX- changed the stage for a beach-wagon. The driver was evidentl}'- a person of consequence here, as he usually becomes in such isolated neighborhoods out of the beaten paths of travel. His loquacity was marvelous. He had either a message or a missive for every one he met ; and at the noise of our wheels house doors opened, and the noses and Yips of youngsters were flat- tened in a whimsical manner against the window-panes. I observed that he invariably saluted the girls by their Christian names as they stood shyly peeping through half-opened doors ; adding the middle name to the baptismal whenever one might be claimed, as Olive Ann, Matilda Jane, or Hannah Ann. I should have called some of them plain Olive, or Matilda, or Hannah. The men answered to such names as Dorainicus, Jott, and 'Life (Eliphalet). Thus this brisk little fellow's passing was the great event over four miles of road. I should have gone directly to the old settlement on the other side of the Neck, now known as " The Factory ;" but here, for a wonder, were no hotels, and travelers are dependent upon private hospitality. " Do you think they will take me in over there ?" I queried, pointing to the old mansion on the site of Fort Frederick. The driver shook his head. "Are they quite full ?" "Solid," was his reply, given with an emphasis that conveyed the impres- sion of sardines in a box. So I was fain to rest with a fisherman turned store- keeper. The little rock-environed harbor on the side of Muscongus Bay is a mere roadstead, unfit for shipping in heavy easterly weather. This place, like many neighboring sea-coast hamlets, was busily engaged in tlie mackerel and men- haden fishery. The latter fish, usually called " porgee," is in demand at the PEMAQUID POINT. 89 factories along sliore for its oil, and among Bank fishermen as bait. Some old cellars on the north side of New Harbor indicated the locale of a former gen- eration of fishermen. On this side, too, there existed, not many years ago, re- mains of a fortification of ancient date.' Shot, household utensils, etc., have been excavated there. There is also by the shore what was either the lair of wild beasts, or a place of concealment frequented by savages. Mr. M'Far- land, one of the oldest residents, mentioned that he had found an arrow-head in the den. Various coins and Indian implements, some of which I saw, have been turned up with the soil on this neck of land. The visitor will not leave New Harbor without hearing of sharp work done there in the war of 1812. The enemy's cruisers kept the coast in per- petual alarm by their marauding excursions in defenseless harbors. One day a British frigate hove to in the Bay, and in a short time a number of barges were seen to push off, fully manned, for the shore. The small militia guard then stationed in Old Fort Frederick was notified, and the residents of New Harbor prepared for action. As the leading British barge entered the harbor, it was hailed by an aged fisherman, who warned the officer in charge not to attempt to land. " If a single gun is fired," replied the Briton, " the town shall be destroyed." Not a single gun, but a deadly volley, answered the threat. The rocks were bristling with old queen's arms and ducking-guns, in the grasp of a score of resolute fellows. Every shot was well aimed. The barge drifted help- lessly out with the tide, and the captain of the frigate had a sorry dispatch for the admiral at Halifax. Leaving New Harbor, I crossed a by-path that conducted to the factory road. Here and elsewhere I had listened to the story of the destruction of the menhaden, from the fishermen's point of view. They apprehend noth- ing less than the total disappearance of this fish at no distant day. " What are we poor fellows going to do when they catch up all the porgees?" asked one. The fishery, as conducted by the factories, is regarded by the fishermen proper as the introduction of improved machinery that dispenses with labor is looked upon by the operative. Although the oil factories purchase the catch that is brought in, the owners are considered intruders, and experi- ence many petty vexations. As men of capital, possessed o-f all needful ap- pliances for their business, they are really independent of the resident pop- ulation, to whom, on the other hand, they disburse money and give employ- ment. The question with which the political economist will have to deal is the expected extinction of the menhaden. I went through the fiictory at Pemaquid Point, and was persuaded the fish could not long support the drain upon them. The porgee begins to fre- ' This work is on an old map of the Kennebec patent. It was about twenty rods square, with a bastion. A house now stands in the space it formerly occupied. 90 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. quent these waters in June. The first -comers are lean, and will make only a gallon of oil to the barrel ; those of September yield four gallons. A fleet of propellers, as well as sailing-craft of forty to fifty tons burden, are kept constantly employed. At Pemaquid harbor, the fish cargoes are transferred from the steamer to an elevated tank of the capacity of four thousand barrels. Underneath the tank a tram-way, conducting by an inclined plane to the second story of the factory, is laid upon the wharf In the bottom of the tank is a trap-door that, upon being opened, quickly fills a car placed below. The fish are then taken into the factory and dumped into other tanks, containing each three car-loads, or about sixty barrels. Here steam is introduced, rapidly convert- ing the fish into unsavory chowder, or " mash." As many as a dozen of these vats were in constant use. The oil and water being drawn off into other vats, the product is obtained through the simplest of machinery, and the well- known principle that in an admixture with water oil will rise to the surface. The residuum from the first process is shoveled into perforated iron cylinders, by men standing up to their knees in the steaming mass. It is then sub- jected to hydraulic pressure, and, after the extraction of every drop of oil, is carefully housed, to be converted into phosphates. The water is passed from tank to tank until completely free of oil. Nothing is lost. This factory had a capacity of three thousand barrels per day, though not of the largest class. Others were working day and night through the season, which continues for about three months. I walked afterward by the side of a seine two hundred fathoms in length, spread upon the grass in order to contract the meshes. One of them frequent- ly costs above a thousand dollars, and is sometimes destroyed at the first cast- ing by being caught on the ledges in shallow water. An old hand can easily tell the diflTerence between a school of mackerel and one of menhaden. The former rush in a body on the top of the water, while the shoal of porgees merely ripples the surface, as is sometimes seen when a moving body of water impinges against a counter -current. The mackerel takes the hook, while the porgee and herring never do. The talk was more fishy here than in any place I have visited. Here they call a school, or shoal, "a pod offish;" "we sot round a pod" being a com- mon expression. The small vessels are called seiners. When they approach a school, the seine is carried out in boats, one end being attached to the ves- sel, except when a bad sea is running. I have seen the men standing up to the middle among the fish they Avere hauling in ; and they are sometimes obliged to abandon half their draught. The whole process of rendering menhaden into oil is less oflfensive to the olfactories than might be supposed. The works at Pemaquid Point are own- ed by Judson, Tarr, and Co.,ofRockport, Massachusetts. As against the gen- erally received opinion that they were destroying fish faster than the losses PEMAQUID POINT. 91 could be repaired, the unusual abundance of mackerel the last year was cited. Mackerel, however, are not ground up at the rate of many thousand barrels per day. It is easy to conjecture that present profit is more looked to than future scarcity. The product of menhaden is chiefly used in the adulteration of linseed-oil. This fish is probably the same called by the French '"''gaspa- rot^'' and found by them in great abundance on the coasts of Acadia. Some account of the habits of the mackerel, as given by veteran fisher- men, is of interest to such as esteem this valuable fish — and the number is legion — if not in explanation of the seemingly purposeless drifting of the mackerel fleet along shore, which is, nevertheless, guided by calculation. In early spring the old breeding fish come into the bays and rivers to spawn. They then return northward. These mackerel are not apt to take the hook, but are caught in weirs and seines, a practice tending to inevitable scarcity in the future. The parent fish come back, in September, to the local- ities where they have spawned, and, taking their young in charge, proceed to the warmer waters west and south. Few if any mackerel spawn south of Cape Cod. By the time this migration occurs, the young fish have grown to six or seven inches in length, and are called " tinkers." They frequently take the bait with avidity, but are too small for market. When this school comes along, the fishermen prepare to follow, saying, " The mackerel are bound west, and we must work west with them." These first -comers are usually fol- lowed by a second school of better size and quality. I have often seen num- bers of young mackerel, of three to four inches in length, left in shallow pools upon the flats by the tide in midsummer. In the midst of a "biting school" no sport could be more exciting or sat- isfying. At such times the mackerel resemble famished wolves, snapping and crowding for the bait, rather than harmless fishes. This unexampled vo- racity makes them an easy prey, and they are taken as fast as the line can be thrown over. It not unfrequently happens that the school will either sink or suddenly refuse the bait, even while swai%ning about the sides of the vessels. This is vexatious, but there is no help for it. The fleet must lie idle until the capricious or overfed fish is hungry. Mackerel swim in deep water, and are brought to the surface by casting over quantities of ground bait. If they happen to be on the surtace in a storm, at the first peal of thunder they will sink to the bottom. The move- ments of the fish in the water are like a gleam of light, and it dies hard when out of it. The mackerel was in great .abundance when New England was first visited. In the confusion naturally incident to accounts of early discoveries on our coast of New England, it is pleasant to find one vantage-ground from which you can not be dislodged. In this respect Pemaquid stands almost alone. It has never been called by any other name. Possibly it may have embraced 92 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. either move or less of the surrounding territory or adjacent waters than at present; still there is eminent satisfaction in standing at Pemaquid on im- pregnable ground. In the minds of some old writers Pemaquid was unquestionably confound- ed with the Penobscot. There is a description of Pemaquid River from the Hakluyt papers/ which makes it the easternmost river, one excepted, of Mavo- shen, manifestly a name erroneously applied, as the description is as far from coinciding with the true Pemaquid as is its location by Hakluyt. In this ac- count the Sagadahoc and town of Kennebec are also mentioned. Like many others, it is more curious than instructive. It also appears, to the student's dismay, that in some instances the discov- erers were apprehensive of drawing attention to any new-found port or har- bor, as it would render their monopoly of less value. The account of Wey- mouth's voyage by James Rosier omitted the latitude, doubtless with this object. His narrative, if not written to mislead, was confessedly not intend- ed to instruct. How is the historian to follow such a clue ? Fortunately, after many puzzling and unsatisfactory conjectures, the account of William Strachey makes all clear, so far as Pemaquid is in question. Weymouth's first landfall was in 42°, and he coasted noithward to 44°. Strachey speaks of "the isles and rivers, together with that little one of Pemaquid." Sir F. Gorges, in his " Brief Narration," mentions that " it pleased God " to bring Captain Weymouth, on his return in 1605, into the harbor of Plymouth, where he. Sir Ferdinando, then commanded.'^ Captain Weymouth, he contin- ues, had been dispatched by the Lord Arundel of Wardour in search of the North-west Passage, but falling short of his course, had happened into a river on the coast of America called Pemaquid. In the reprint of Sir F. Gorges's invaluable narrative^ the word Penobscot is placed after Pemaquid in brack- ets. It does not appear in the original. Pemaquid, then, becomes one of the pivotal points of New England dis- covery, as it subsequently was of her history. As the French had directed their early efforts toward the Penobscot, so the English had imbibed strong predilections for the Sagadahoc, or Kennebec. Weymouth and Pring had paved the way ; the Indians transported to England had been able to give an intelligible account of the country, the configuration of the coasts, the magnitude of the rivers, and power of the nations peopling the banks. The Kennebec was known to the French earlier than to the English, and by its proper name. Champlain's voyage in the autumn of 1604 extended, it is believed, as far as Monhegan, as he names an isle ten leagues from " Quinehequi^'' and says he went three or four leagues beyond it. Moreover, 1 "Purchas," vol. iv., 1874. "^ In 1603 Gorges was deprived of the command, but had it restored to him the same year. ^ "Collections of the Massachusetts Historical Society," vol. vi., 3d series. PEMAQUID POINT. 93 he had coasted both sliores of the Penobscot bay, penetrating at least as far as the Narrows, below Bucksport. He calls the Camden hills Bedabedec, and says the Kennebec and Penobscot Indians were at enmity. De Monts followed Champlain in June, 1605, having sailed from St. Croix two days after Weymouth's departure from the coast for England. He was more than two months in exploring a hundred and twenty leagues of sea-coast, visiting and observing the Kennebec, of which a straightforward story is told. Even then the river was known as a thoroughfare to Canada.' The mouth of the Kennebec is interesting as the scene of the third at- tempt to obtain a foothold on New England's soil. This was the colony of Chief-justice Popham, which arrived off Monhegan in August, 1607.* This undertaking was intended to be permanent. There were two well-provided ships, and a hundred and twenty colonists.^ The leader of the enterprise, George Popham, was accompanied by CajDtain Raleigh Gilbert, nephew and namesake of Sir Walter Raleigh. A settlement was effected on Hunnewell's Point, at the mouth of the Ken- nebec. The winter was one of unexampled severity, and the new-comers had been late in preparing for it. Encountering privations similar to those after- ward endured by the Plymouth settlers, they lost courage, and when news of the death of their patron, the chief-justice, reached them, were ready to abandon the project. Popham, having died in February, was succeeded by Gilbert, whose affairs recalling him to England, the whole colony deserted their settlement at Fort St. George in the spring of 160S. Popham was the first English magistrate in New England. Mather attributes the failure of attempts to colonize the parts of New England north of Plymouth to their being founded upon the advancement of worldly interests. "A constant series of disasters has confounded them," avers the witch-hating old divine. One minister, he says, was exhorting the eastern settlors to be more religious, putting the case to them much in this way, when a voice from the congregation cried out, " Sir, you are mistaken ; you think you are preaching to the people of the Bay. Our main end was to catch fish." "Did you ever see Cotton Mather's 'Histor)^ of New England?' — one of the oddest books I ever perused, but deeply interesting," The question is put by Southey, and I repeat it, as, if you have not read Mather's "Magnalia Christi Americana," you have not seen the corner-stone of New England his- torical and ecclesiastical literature. Apropos of the immigration into New England, it was openly bruited in England that King Charles I. would have been glad if the thousands who went over were drowned in the sea. Between the years 1628 and 1635 the ' See Lescarbot, p. 497. * Strachey. Gorges says August 8th ; Smith, August 11th. ' A fly-boat, the Gift of God, George rophani ; Mary and John, of London, lialeigli Gilbert, 94 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. exodus was very great, and gave the king much displeasure. No one was permitted to remove without the royal permission. Even young Harry Vane had to solicit the good offices of his father, Sir Harry, to obtain a pass. He was then out of favor at court and at home, through his Geneva no- tions about kneeling to receive the Sacrament, and other Puritan ideas. "Let him go," growls an old writer ; " lias not Sir Harry other sons but him ?" The colony of Popham began better than it end- ed. A fort, doubtless no more than a palisade with platforms for guns, was marked out. A trench was dug about it, and twelve pieces of ordnance were mounted. Within its protection fifty houses, besides a church andstore- liouse, were built. The carpenters framed a" pryt- ty pynnace" of thirty tons, which they chris- tened the Virginia. There is no earlier record of ship-building in Maine. The tenacity of the English character has become proverbial. Neverthe- less, the opinion is hazarded that no nation so ill accommodates itself to a new country. The English colonies of Virginia, New England, and Jamaica are striking examples of barrenness of resource when confronted with unforeseen privations. The Frenchman, on the contrary, possesses in an eminent degree the capacity to adapt himself to strange scenes and unaccustomed modes of life. Every thing is made to contribute to his wants. Let the reader con- sult, if he Avill, the campaign of the Crimea, where thousands of English sol- diers gave way to hardships unknown in the French camps. The elastic gayety of the one is in contrast with the gloomy despondency of the other. The Popham colony abandoned a well-matured, ably-seconded design through dread of a New England winter and through homesickness. Clearly it was not of the stuff to found a State. The previous winter was passed by the French at their new settlement of COTTON MATUEK. PEMAQUID POINT. 95 Port Royal, commenced within two years. The seasons of 1605 and of 1606 were extremely rigorous. The colojiy of De Monts went through the first in rude cabins, hastily constructed, on the island of St. Croix. The next autumn the settlement was transferred to Port lioyal. Winter found them domiciled in their new quarters under no better roofs than they had quitted. Though their leader, Du Guast, had left them, they were animated by an irre- pressible spirit of fun, altogether French. They made roads through the forest, or joined with the Indians in hunting-parties, managing these native Americans with an address that won their confidence and good help. n ,-. ?g?'-vs{aiS.ite/c; ANCIENT PEMAQUID. Finally, at the suggestion of Champlain, in order to keep up an unflagging good-fellowship, and to render themselves free of all anxiety on the subject of provisions, the ever-famous "L'Ordre de Bon Temps" was inaugurated. It is deserving of remembrance along with the coterie of t^ie Knights of the Round Table. Once in fifteen days each member of the order officiated as maitre cVhotel of De Poutrincourt's table. It was his care on that day that his comrades should be well and honorably entertained ; and although, as the old chronicler quaintly says, " our gourmands often reminded us that we were not in the Hue aux Ours at Paris, yet so well was the rule observed that we ordinarily made as good cheer as we should have known how to do in the Hue mix Ours, and at less cost." There was not a fellow of the order who, t^vo days before his turn came, did not absent himself until he could return with some delicacy to add to their ordinary fare. They had always fish or flesh at breakfast, and were never without one or both at the repasts of noon and evening. It became their great festival. The steward, or maitre cVliotel, having caused all things to be made ready, marched with his napkin on liis shoulder, his staff" of office in his hand, and the collar of the order, that we are told Avas worth more than four French crowns, about his neck. Behind him Avalked the brothers of the order, each one bearing his plate. In the evening, after giving thanks to God, the host 96 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. of the day resigned the collar to his successor, each pledging the other in a glass of wine. On such occasions they had always twenty or thirty savages — men, wom- en, and children — looking on. To these they gave bread from the table ; but when, as was often the case, the sagamores — those fierce, intractable barba- rians — presented themselves, they were, says Lescarbot, " at table eating and drinking like us, and we right glad to see them, as, on the contrary, their ab- sence would have made us sorry." At Pemaquid we enter the domain of Samoset, that chivalric New En- o-lander whom histoiians delight to honor. He was a sagamore without "•uile. Chronologically speaking, he should first appear at Plymouth, in the act of offering to those doubting Pilgrims the right hand of fellowship. He told them he was sagamore of Morattigon, distant from Plymouth " a daye's sayle with a great ■wind, and five dayes by land." In 1623 he ex- tended a kindly recep- tion to Christopher Lev- ett, to whom he proifered a friendship, to continue until the Great Spirit car- ried them to his wigwam. All the old writers speak well of Samoset, whom we call a savage.^ I next visited the lit- tle point of land on which are the ruins of old Fort Frederick. Little diffi- culty is experienced in retracing the exterior and interior lines of a fortress designed as the strongest bulwark of En- glish power in New En- It was built upon a green slope, above a rocky shore, commanding the approach from the sea; but was itself dominated by the heights of the western shore of John's River, a circumstance that did not escape the notice of D'Iberville in 1696. At the south-east angle of the work is a high rock. CUARLEVOIX. rland. * Samoset, in 1G25, sold Pemaquid to John Brown. His sign-manual was a bended bow, with an arrow fitted to tlie string. The deed to Brown also fixes ths residence, at Pemaquid, of Abra- ham Shurt, agent of Elbridge and Aldworth, in the year 1626. PEMAQUID rOINT. 97 overgrown with a tangle of climbing vines and shrubs. This rock formed a ])art of the old magazine, and is now tlie conspicuous feature of the ruined fortress. A projecting spur of the opposite shore was called " the Barbican." The importance of Pemaquid as a check to French aggression was very great. It covered the approaches to the Kennebec, the Sheepscot, Damaris- cotta, and Pemaquid rivers. It was also, being at their doors, a standing men- ace against the Indian allies of the French, with a garrison ready to launch upon their villages, or intercept the advance of war jjarties towai-d the jSTew England settlements. Its presence exasperated the Abenaquis, on whose ter- ritory it was, beyond measure : the French found them ever ready to second projects for its destruction. On the other hand, the remoteness of Pemaquid rendered it impracticable to relieve it when once invested by an enemy. Only a few feeble settlements skirted the sea-coast between it and Casco Bay, so the same causes combined to render it both weak and formidable. Old Pentagoet, which the reader knows for Castine, and Pemaquid, were the mailed hands of each nationality, always clenched ready to strike. The fort erected at Pemaquid in 1677, by Governor Andros, was a wooden redoubt mounting two guns, with an outwork having two bastions, in each of which were two great guns, and another at the gate.' This work was named Fort Charles. It was captured and destroyed by the Indians in 1689. Sir William Phips, under instructions from Whitehall, built a new fort at Pemaquid in 1692, which he called W^illiam Henry. Captains Wing and Ban- croft were the engineers, the work being completed by Captain March. ^ The English believed it impregnable. Mather, who says it was the finest that had been seen in those parts of America, has a significant allusion to the ar- chitect of a fortress in Poland whose eyes were put out lest he should build another such. From this vantage-ground the English, for the fifth time, ob- tained possession of Acadia. In the same year DTberville made a demonstration against it with two French frigates, but finding an English vessel anchored under the walls, aban- doned his design, to the chagrin of a large band of auxiliary warriors who had assembled under Villebon, and who now vented their displeasure by stamping upon the ground. The reduction of Fort William Henry was part of a general scheme to I "New York Colonial Documents," vol. iii., p. 25G. Some primitive defensive works had ex- isted as early as 1630, rifled in 1G32 by the freebooter. Dixy Bull. '•^ It was of stone ; a quadrangle seven hundred and thirty-seven feet in compass without the outer walls, one hundred and eight feet square within the inner ones ; pierced with embrasures for twenty-eight cannons, and mounting fourteen, six being eighteen-pounders. Tlie south wall front- ing the sea was twenty-two feet high, and six feet thick at the ports. The great flanker, or round tower, at the west end of the line was twenty-nine feet high. It stood about a score of rods from high-water mark. — Mather, vol. ii., p. 587. 7 98 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. FRENCH FRIGATE, SEVEKTEENTH CENTURY. overrun and destroy the English settlements as far as the Piscataqua. The English were fore- warned, John Nelson, of Boston, whose biog- raphy is worth the writ- ing, was then a prisoner at Quebec. Madocawan- do was also there, in consultation with Count Frontenac. The Abe- naqui chief, dissatisfied with his presents, gave open expression of liis disgust at the niggard- liness of his white ally. Nelson was well ac- quainted with the Indian tongue. He cajoled the chief into talking of his projects, and as soon as they were in his possession acted like a man of decision. He bribed two Frenchmen — Arnaud du Vignon and Francis Albert — to carry the intelli- gence to Boston. On their return to Canada both were shot, and Nelson was sent to France, where he became for five years an inmate of the Bastile. The life of John Nelson contains all the requisites of romance. Altliough an Episcopalian, he put himself at the head of the revolution against the tyr- anny of Andros. As a prisoner, he risked his own life to acquaint his countrj^- raeu with the dangers that menaced them; and it is said he was even can-ied to the place of execution along with his detected messengers. The Frencli called hira "le plus audacieux et le plus achai-ne," in the design of conquering Canada. Released from the Bastile on liis pai-ole, after visiting England he returned to France to fulfill its conditions, although forbidden to do so by King William. A man of address, courage, and high sense of honor Avas this John Nelson, In 1696, a second and more successful expedition was conducted against Pemaquid. In August, D'Iberville' and Bonaventure sailed with the royal order to attack and reduce it. They called at Pentagoet, receiving there a re-enforcement of two hundred Indians, who embarked in their canoes, led by St. Castin. On the IStli the expedition appeared before the place, and the next day it was invested. ' " D'lberville, monseigneuv, est un tres sage gallon, eiitrepienant et qui scait ce qu'il fait." — M. Denonvjlle. PEMAQUID POINT. 99 HUTCHINSON. Fort William Henry was then commanded by Captain Pascho Chubb, with a garrison of about a hundred men. Fifteen pieces of artillery were in posi- tion. The French expected an obstinate resistance, as the place was well able to withstand a siege. Chubb, on being summoned, returned a defiant answer. D'Iberville then began to erect his batteries. Tiie account of Charlevoix states that the French got posses- sion of ten or twelve stone houses, forming a street leading from the village square to the fort. They then intrenched themselves, partly at the cellar -door of the house next the fort, and partly behind a rock on the sea-shore. A second demand made by St. Castin, accom2:)a- nied by the threat that if the place were assault- ed the garrison might expect no quarter, de- cided the valiant Chubb, after a feeble and in- glorious defense, to surrender. The gates were opened to the besiegers. On finding an Indian in irons in the fortress, Castin's warriors began a massacre of the prisoners, which was arrested by their removal, at command of DTberville, to an island, where tliey were pro- tected by a strong guard from further violence. The name of William Henry has been synonymous with disaster to colonial strongholds. The massacre of 1757 at Lake George, forever infamous, obscures with blood the fair fame of Montcalm, The novelist Cooper, in making it the groundwork of his "Mohicans," has not overstated the horrors of the tragedy enacted by the placid St. Sacrament. Two days were occupied by the French in the destruction of Pemaquid fort. They then set sail for St. John's River, narrowly escai)ing capture by a fleet sent from Boston in pursuit. The French, who had before claimed to the Kennebec, subsequently established their boundary of Acadia at St. George's River, On the beach, below where the martello tower had stood, I discovered many fragments of bricks among the rock debris. Some of these were as large as were commonly used in the hearths of our most ancient houses. The arch by which the tower was perhaps supported remained nearly intact, though completely concealed by a thicket formed of interweaving shrubs. Some have conjecttired it to have been a hiding-place of smugglers. Fragments of shot and shell have likewise been picked up among the rubbish of the oM fortress. Not far from the spot is a grave-yard, in which time and neglect have done their work. It has been attempted to show that a large and populous settlement ex- isted from a very early time at Pemaquid, with paved streets and some of 100 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. the belongings of a i^ermanent population. Within a few years excavations have been made, exhibiting the remains of pavement of beach-pebble at some distance below the surface of the ground. It is not doubted that a small plantation was maintained here antecedent to the settlement in Massachusetts Bay. but it as certainly lacks confirmation tliat it had assumed either the proportions or outward appearance of a well and regularly built town at any time during the seventeenth century. If it were true, as Sullivan states, that in 1630 there were, exclusive of fishermen, eighty-four families about Sheepscot, Pemaquid, and St, George's, it also be- comes important to know by what means these settlements were depopulated previous to the Indian wars. The commissioners of Charles II., sent over in 1665, reported that upon the rivers Kennebec, Sheepscot, and Pemaquid were three plantations, the largest containing not more than thirty houses, inhabited, say they, " by the worst of men." The commissioners gave impartial testimony here, for they were trying to dispossess Massachusetts of the government she had assumed over Maine since 1652. They wrote further, that neither Kittery, York, Wells, Scarborough, nor Falmouth had more than thirty houses, and those mean ones. This was the entirety of the grand old Pine-tree State two centuries ago. Colonel Romer had recommended, about 1699, the fortifying anew of Pem- aquid, and the building of supporting woi'ks at the next point of land, and on John's Island. Nothing, however, appears to have been done until the ar- rival of Colonel David Dunbar, in 1730, to resume possession of the Sagada- hoc territory in the name of the crown. Dunbar repaired the old works, giving them the name of Fort Frederick. At Pemaquid Point he laid out the plan of a city which he divided into lots, inviting settlers to repopulate the country. Old grants and titles were con- sidered extinct. His possession at Pemaquid conflicting Avith the Muscongus patent was revoked through the efibrts of Samuel Waldo. The garrison was replaced by Massachusetts troops, and the so-called Sagadahoc territory an- nexed to the County of York.' When in the neighborhood, the visitor will feel a desire to inspect the ex- tensive shell heaps of the Damariscotta, about a mile above the town of New- castle. They occur on a jutting point of land, in such masses as to resemble low chalk cliffs of guano deposits. The shells are of the oyster, now no long- er native in New England waters, but once abundant, as these and other re- mains testify. The highest point of the bank is twenty-five feet above the river. The deposits are rather more than a hundred rods in length, with a ' As it is inconsistent with the purpose and limits of these chapters to give the detail of char- ters, patents, and titles by which Pemaquid has acquired much historical prominence, the reader may, in addition to autliorities named in the text, consult Thornton's "Ancient Pemaquid, "vol. v. "Maine Historical Collections;" Johnston's "Bristol, Bremen, and Pemaquid ;"' Hough's "Pem- aquid Papers," etc. PEMAQUID POINT. 101 variable width of from eighty to a hundred rods. The shells lie in regular layers, bleached by sun and weather. Among the many naturalists who have visited them may be named Dr. Charles T. Jackson,' and Professor Chad- bourne, of Bowdoin College. Some animal remains found among the shells were submitted to Agassiz, who concurred in the received opinion that the shells were heaped up by men. From point to point excavations have been made with the expectation of finding the Indian implements Avhich have occasionally rewarded such inves- tigations. Williamson mentions a tradition that human skeletons had been discovered in these beds. The bones of animals and of birds have been found in them. Situated in the immediate vicinity of the shell deposits is a kiln for converting the shells into lime, which is produced of as good quality as that obtained from limestone rock. In walking along tlie beach at low tide, I had an excellent opportunity of surveying these remains. A considerable growth of trees had sprung from the soil collected above them, the roots of some having penetrated completely through the superincumbent shells to the earth beneath. From an observation of several cavities near the surface and in the sides of the oyster banks, the shells, in some instances, appear to have been subjected to fire. The entire stratum was in a state of decomposition that sufficiently at- tests the work of years. Even those shells lying nearest the surface in most cases crumbled in the hands, while at a greater depth the closely- packed valves were little else than a heap of lime. The shell heaps are of common occurrence all along the coast. The read- er knows them for the feeding-places of the hordes preceding European civil- ization. Here they regaled themselves on a delicacy that disappeared when they vanished from the land. The Indians not only satisfied present hun- gei-, but dried the oyster for winter consumption. Their summer camps were pitched in the neighborhood of well-known oyster deposits, the squaws being occupied in gathering shell-fish, while the men were engaged in fishing or in hunting. Josselyn mentions the long-shelled oysters peculiar to these deposits. lie notes them of nine inches in length from the "joint to the toe, that Avere to be cut in three pieces before they could be eaten." Wood professes to have seen them of a foot in length. I found many of the shells here of six inches in length. Winthrop alludes to the oyster banks of Mystic River, Massachu- setts, that impeded its navigation. During recent dredgings here oyster- shells of six to eight inches in length were frequently brought to the surface. The problem of the oyster's disa])pearance is yet to be solved.'^ ' While making his geological survey of Maine. ^ Williamson mentions the heaps on the eastern bank, not so high as on the western, extend- ing back twenty rods from the river, and rendering the land useless. The shell heaps of Georgia and Florida are more extensive than any in New England. MONHEGAN ISLAND. CHAPTER VII. MONHEGAN ISLAND. " From gray sea- fog, from icy drift, From peril and from pain, The home-bound fisher greets thy lights, Oh hundred-harbored Maine!" Whittier. ^THIIE most famous island you can find on the New England map is Monhe- -*- gan Island. To it the voyages of Weymouth, of Popham, and of Smith converge. The latter has put it down as one of the landmarks of our coast. Rosier calls it an excellent landfall. It is undoubtedly Monhegan that is seen on the oldest charts of New England. Champlain, with the same apt- ness and originality recognized in Mount Desert and Isle au Haut, names it La Tortue. Take from the shelf Bradford, Winthrop, Prince, or Hubbard, and you will find this island to figure conspicuously in their pages. Brad- ford says starving Plymouth was succored from Monhegan as early as 1622. The Boston colonists of 1630 were boarded when entering Salem by a Plym- outh man, going about his business at Pemaquid. English fishing ships hov- ered about the island for a dozen years before the Mayflov^er swung to her anchorage in the "ice-rimmed" bay. The embers of some camp-fire Avere al- ways smowldering there. Sailing once from Boston on a Penobscot steamboat, a few hours brought us up with Cape Ann. I asked the pilot for what land he now steered. " M'nhiggin." In returning, the boat came down through the Mussel Ridge Channel like a race-horse over a well-beaten course. We rounded Monhegan again, and then steered by the compass. Monhegan is still a landmark. A Avintry passage is not always to be commended, especially when the MONHEGAN ISLAND. 103 Atlantic gets un- ruly. Leaving the wharf on one well- remembered occa- sion, we steamed down the bay in smooth water at fourteen miles an hour. All on board were in possession of their customa- ry equipoise. Soon the gong sounded a noisy summons to supper. We descended. The p cabin tables were ^ quickly occupied 9 by a merry com- pany of both sex- es. There was a clatter of plates and sharp click- ing of knives and forks ; waiters ran hither and thither; the buzz of con- versation and rip- ple of suppressed THATCHER'S ISLAND LIGHT AND FOG SIGNALS, CAPE ANN. laughter began to diffuse themselves with the good cheer, when, suddenly, the boat, mounting a sea, fell off into the trough with a measured movement that thrilled every victim of old Neptune to the marrow. It would be difficult to conceive a more instantaneous metamorphosis tlian that which now took place. Maidens who had been chatting or wickedly flirt- ing, laid down their knives and forks and turned pale as their napkins. Youths that were all smiles and attention to some adorable companion suddenly be- haved as if oblivious of her presence. Another plunge of the boat! IMy vis- d-vis, an old gourmand, had intrenched himself behind a rampart of delicacies. He stops short in the act of carving a fowl, and reels to the cabin stairs. Soon he has many followers. Wives are separated from husbands, the lover de- serts his mistress. A heavier sea lifts tlie bow, and goes rolling with gath- ered volume astern, accompanied by the crash of crockery and trembling of the chandeliers. That did the business. Tlie commercial traveler who told 104 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. me he w:is never sea-sick laid down the morsel he was in the act of convey- ing to his mouth. He tried to look unconcerned as he staggered from the table, but it was a wretched failure. Two waiters, each bearing a well-laden tray, were sent sliding down the incline to the leeward side of the cabin, where, coming in crashing collision, they finally deposited their burdens in a berth in AVhich some unfortunate was already reposing. All except a handful of well -seasoned voyagers sought the upper cabins, Avhere they re- mained pale as statues, and as silent. The rows of deserted seats, unused plates, the joints sent away untouched, presented a melancholy evidence of the triumph of matter over mind. Early in the morning we made out Monhegan, as I have no doubt it was descried from the mast-head of the Archangel, Weymouth's ship, two hun- dred and seventy years ago. The sea was shrouded in vapor, so that we saw the island long before the main-land was visible. Sea-faring people call it high land for tiiis part of the world. Near the westward shore of the southern half of this remarkable island is a little islet, called Mananas, which forms the only harbor it can boast. Cap- tain Smith says, " Between Monahiggon and Monanis is a small harbour, where we rid." The entrance is considered practicable only from the south, though the captain of a coasting vessel pointed out where he had run his vessel through the ragged reefs that shelter the northern end, and saved it. It was a desperate strait, he said, and the by-standers shook their heads, in thinking on the peril of the attempt.^ The inhabitants are hospitable, and many even well to do. Their harbor is providentially situated for vessels that are forced on the coast in heavy gales, and are able to reach its shelter. At such times exhausted mariners are sure of a kind reception, every house opening its doors to relieve their dis- tresses. Having all the requirements of snug harboring, excellent rock fishing, with room enough for extended rambling up and down, the island must one day become a resort as famous as the Isles of Shoals. At present there is a peculiar flavor of originality and freshness about the people, who are as yet free from the money-getting aptitudes of the recognized watering-place. George Weymouth made his anchorage under Monhegan on the 18th of May, 1605. "It appeared," says Rosier, "a mean high land, as we afterward found it, being an island of some six miles in compass, but, I hope, the most fortunate ever yet discovei-ed. About twelve o'clock that day, Ave came to * Monhegan lies nine miles south of the George's group, twelve south-east from Femaquid, and nine west of Metinic. It contains upward of one thousand acres of land. According to William- son, it had, in 1832, about one hundred inhabitants, twelve or fourteen dwelHngs, and a school- house. The able-bodied men were engaged in the Bank fishery ; the elders and boys in tending the flocks and tilling the soil. At that time tliere was not an officer of any kind upon the island ; not even a justice of the peace. The people governed themselves according to local usage, and were strangers to taxation. A light-house was built on the island in 182i. MONHEGAN ISLAND. 103 an anchor on the north side of this island, about a league from the shore. About two o'clock our captain with twelve men rowed in his ship-boat to the shore, where we made no long stay, but laded our boat with dry wood of old trees upon the shore side, and returned to our ship, where we rode that night." * * * " This island is woody, grown with fir, birch, oak, and beech, as far as we saw along the shore ; and so likely to be within. On the verge grow goose- berries, strawberries, wild pease, and wild rose - bushes. The water issued forth down the clifis in many places; and much fowl of divers kinds breeds upon the shore and rocks." The main-land possessed greater attraction for Weymouth. Thinking his anchorage insecure, he brought his vessel the next day to the islands " more adjoining to the main, and in the road directly with the mountains, about three leagues from the island where he had first anchored." I read this description while standing on the deck of the Katahdin^ and found it to answer admirably the conditions under which I then surveyed the land. We were near enough to make out the varied features of a long line of sea-coast stretching northward for many a mile. There were St. George's Islands, three leagues distant, and more adjoining to the main. And there were the Camden Mountains in the distance.^ Weymouth landed at Pemaquid, and traded with the Indians there. In order to impress them with the belief that he and his comrades were super- natural beings, he caused his own and Hosier's swords to be touched with the loadstone, and then with the blades took up knives and needles, much mys- tifying the simple savages with his jngglery. It took, however, six Avhites to capture two of the natives, unarmed and thrown ofiT their guard by feigned friendship. But one compensation can be found for Weymouth's treachery in kidnap- ing five Indians here, and that is in the assertion of Sir F, Gorges that this circumstance first directed his attention to New England colonization. At least two of the captive Indians found their way back again. One returned the next year; another — Skitwarres — came over with Pophara. A strange tale these savages must have told of their adventures beyond seas.^ Some credence has been given to the report of the existence of a rock inscription on Monhegan Island, supposed by some to be a reminiscence ' A good many arguments may be found in the " Collections of the Maine Ilistoi'ioal Society" as to whether Weymouth ascended the Penobscot or the Kennebec. All assume Monhegan to have been the first island seen. This being conceded, the landmarks given in the text follow, without reasonable ground for controversy. ^ In 1607 Weymouth was granted a pension of tiiree shillings and fourpence per diem. Smith was at Monhegan in 1614, Captain Dermer in 161!), and some mutineers from Rocroft's sliip had passed the winter of 1618-'19 there. The existence of a small plantation is ascertained in 1G22. In 1626 the island was sold to Giles Elbridge and Robert Aldworth for fifty pounds. 106 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. of tlie Northmen. The Society of Northern Antiquaries of Copenhagen has reproduced it in their printed proceedings. Tlie best informed American antiquaries do not believe it to possess any archaeological significance. I also heard of another of the " devil's foot-prints" on Mananas, but did not see it. Between Monhegan and Pemaquid Point was the scene of the sea-fight between the Enterprise and Boxer. Some of the particulars I shall relate I had of eye-witnesses of the battle. In September, 1814, the American brig Enterprise quitted Portsmouth roads. She had seen service in the wars with the French Directory and with Algiers. She had been rebuilt in 1811, and had already gained the name of a lucky vessel. Her cruising-ground was along the Maine coast, where a sharp lookout was to be kept for privateers coming out of the ene- my's ports. In times past her commanders wci'e such men as Sterrett, Hull, Decatur, and Blakely, in whom was no more flinching than in the mainmast. Lieutenant Burrows, who now took her to sea, had been first officer of a merchant sliip and a prisoner to the enemy. As soon as exchanged he was given the command of the Enterp>rise. He was a good seaman, bound up in his profession, and the darling of the common sailors. Taciturn and misan- thropic among equals, he liked to disguise himself in a pea-jacket and visit the low haunts of his shipmates. It was believed he would be killed sooner than surrender. The Boxer had been fitted out at St. Johns with a view of meeting and fighting the Enterprise. Every care that experience and seamanship could suggest had been bestowed upon her equipment. She was, moreover, a new and strong vessel. In armament and crews the two vessels were about equal, the inferiority, if any, being on the side of the American. The two brigs Avere, in fact, as equally matched as could well be. They were prepared, rubbed down, and polished off*, like pugilists by their respective trainers. They were in quest of each other. The conquered, however, attributed their defeat to every cause but the true one, namely, that of being beaten in a fair fight on their favorite element. The Boxer., after worrying the fishermen, and keeping the sea-coast vil- lages in continual alarm, dropped anchor in Pemaquid Bay on Saturday, Sep- tember 4th, 1814. There was then a small militia guard in old Fort Freder- ick. The inhabitants of Pemaquid Point, fearing an attack, withdrew into the woods, where they heard at evening tlie music played on board the ene- my's cruiser. The next morning, a peaceful Sabbath, the lookout of the Boxer made out the Enterprise coming down from the westward with a foir wind. In an in- stant the Briton's decks were alive Avith men. Sails were let fall and sheet- ed home with marvelous quickness, and the Boxer., Avith every rag of canvas spread, stood out of the bay. From her anchorage to the Avestward of John's MONHEGAN ISLAND. 107 Island, the Boxer, as she got undev way, threw several shot over the island into tlie fort by way of farewell. Both vessels bore off the land about three miles, when they stripped to fighting canvas. The American, being to wind- ward, had the weather-gage, and, after taking a good look at her antagonist, brought her to action at twenty minutes past three o'clock in the afternoon. Anximis spectators crowded the shores ; but after the first broadsides, for the forty minutes the action continued, nothing could be seen except the flashes of the guns ; both vessels were enveloped in a cloud. At length the tiring slackened, and it was seen the Boxer's maintop-mast had been shot away. The battle was decided. This combat, which proved fatal to both commanders, Avas,for the time it lasted, desperately contested. The Enterprise returned to Portland, with the Boxer in company, on the Yth. The bodies of Captain Samuel Blythe, late commander of the English brig, and of Lieutenant William Burrows, of the Enterprise, were brought on shore draped with the flags each had so bravely defended. The same honors were paid the remains of each, and they were in- terred side by side in the cemetery at Portland. Blythe had been one of poor Lawrence's pall-bearers. GKAVES OF BUKUOWS AND BLYTHE, PORTLAND. This was the first success that had befiillen the American navy since the loss of the Chesapeake. It revived, in a measure, the confidence that disaster had shaken. The Boxer went into action with her colors nailed to the mast— a useless bravado that no doubt cost many lives. Her ensign is now among the trophies of the Naval Academy at Annapolis, while that of the Enter- prise has but lately been reclaimed from among the forgotten things of the 108 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. past, to array its tattered folds beside the flags of the Bonhomme Uichard and of Fort M'Henry.' Among the recollections of his "Lost Youth," the author of "Evangeline," a native of Portland, tells us: "I remember the sea-fight far away, How it thundered o'er the tide! And the dead captains, as they lay In tlieir graves o'erlooking the tranquil bay, Where they in battle died." * This flag inspired the national lyric, "The Star-spangled Banner." burrows' S MEDAL. GORGE, BALD HEAD CLIFF. CHAPTER VIII. PROISI WELLS TO OLD YOEK. "A shipman was there, wonned fiir by west; For aught I wot, he was of Davtemouth." Chaucer. /^NE liot, slumberous morninpj in August I found myself in the town of ^-^ Wells. I was traveling, as New England ought to be traversed by ev- ery young man of average health and active habits, on foot, and at leisure, along the beautiful road to Old York. Now "Wells, as Victor Hugo says of a village in Brittany, is not a town, but a street, stretching for five or siv miles along the shore, and everywhere commanding an extensive and un- broken ocean view. 110 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. The place itself, though bristling with history, has been stripped of its antiques, and is in appearance the counterpart of a score of neat, thrifty vil- lages of my acquaintance, I paused for a moment at the site of the Storer garrison, in which Captain Converse made so manful a defense when Fron- tenac, in 1C92, let slip his French and Indians on our border settlements/ Some fragments of the timbers of the garrison are preserved in the vicinity, one of which I saw among the collections of a village antiquary. In the an- nals of Wells the names of John Wheelwright and of George Burroughs oc- cur, the former celebrated as the founder of Exeter, the latter a victim of the witchcraft horror of '92. John Wheelwright, the classmate and friend of Cromwell, fills a large space in the early history of the Bay Colony. A fugitive, like John Cotton, from the persecutions of Laud, he came to Boston in 1636, and became the pastor of a church at Braintree, then forming part of Boston. He was the brother-in-law of the famous Ann Hutchinson, who was near creating a revo- lution in Winthrop's government,'' and shared her Antinomian opinions. For this he was banished, and became the founder of Exeter in 1638, In 1643, Massachusetts having claimed jurisdiction over that town, Wheelwright re- moved to Wells, where he remained two years. Becoming reconciled to. the Massachusetts government, he removed to Hampton, was in England in 165V, returning to New England in 1660. He became pastor of the church in Salis- bury, and died there in 1679; but the place of his burial, Allen says, is not known. He was the oldest minister in the colony at the time of his death, and a man of pronounced character. Tiie settlement of the island of Rhode Island occurred through the removal of William Coddington and others at the same time, and for the same reasons that caused the expulsion of Wheel- wright from Boston, as Roger Williams had been expelled from Salem seven years before. "Wheelwright's Deed" has been the subject of a long and animated con- troversy among antiquaries ; some, like Mr. Savage, pronouncing it a forgery because it is dated in 1629, the year before the settlement of Boston. This deed was a conveyance from the Indian sagamores to Wheelwright of the. land on which stands the flourishing town of Exeter; and although copies of it have been recorded in several places, the original long ago disappeared. Cotton IMather, who saw it, testifies to its appearance of antiquity, and the advocates of its validity do not appear as yet to have the worst of the argu- ment.^ ' Colonel Storer kept up the stockades and one or more of the flankarts until after the year 17G0, as a memorial rather than a defense. ■^ This relationship is disputed by Mr. Josepli L. Chester, the eminent antiquary. "VVinthrop, it would seem, ought to have known ; Eliot and Allen repeat the authority, the latter giving the full name of Mary Hutchinson. ^ Both sides have been ably presented by Dr. N. Bouton and Hon. Charles H. Bell. FROM WELLS TO OLD YORK. HI George Burroughs, who fell fighting against terrorism on Gallows Hill — a single spot may claim in New England the terrible distinction of this namt^ — was, if tradition says truly, apprehended h}' officers of the Bloody Council at the church door, as he was leaving it after divine service. A little dark man, and an athlete, whose muscular strength was turned against him to fa- tal account. An Indian, at Falmouth, had held out a heavy fowling-piece at arms -length by simply thrusting his finger in at the muzzle. Poor Bur- roughs, who would not stand by and see an Englishman outdone by a red- skin, repeated the feat on the spot, and this was the most ruinous piece of evidence brought forth at his trial, A man could not be strong then, or the devil was in it. The road was good, and the way plain. As the shores are for some miles intersected by creeks intrenched behind sandy downs, the route follows a level shelf along the high land. There are pleasant strips of beach, where the sea breaks noiselessly when the wind is ofi" shore, but where it comes thundering in when driven before a north-cast gale. Now and then a vessel is embayed here in thick weather, or, failing to make due allowance for the strong drift to the westward, is set bodily on these sands, as the fishermen say, "all standing." While I was in the neighborhood no less than three came ashore wathin a few hours of each other. The first, a timber vessel, missing her course a little, went on the beach ; but at the next tide, by carry- ing an anchor into deep water and kedging, she was floated again. Another luckless craft struck on the rocks within half a mile of the first, and became a wreck, the crew owing their lives to a smooth sea. The third, a Bank fisherman, was left by the ebb high up on a dangerous reef, with a hole in her bottom. She w'as abandoned to the underwriters, and sold for a few dol- lars. To the surprise even of the knowing ones, the shi-ewd Yankee who bought her succeeded at low tide in getting some emjJty casks into her hold, and brought her into port. Notwithstanding these sands are hard and firm as a granite floor, they are subject to shiftings which at first appear almost unaccountable. Many years ago, Avhile sauntering along the beach, I came across the timbers of a strand- ed vessel. So deeply were they imbedded in the sand, that they had the ap- pearance rather of formidable rows of teeth belonging to some antique sea- monster than of the work of human hands. How long the wreck had lain there no one could say ; but at intervals it disappeared beneath the sands, to come to the surface again. I have often walked over the spot Avhere it lay buried out of sight; and yet, after the laj^se of years, there it was again, like a grave that would not remain closed, A few years ago, an English vessel, the Clotilde^ went ashore on Wells Beach, and remained there high and dry for nearly a year. She Avas deeply laden with railway iron, and, after being relieved of lier cargo, Avas success- fully launched. During the time the ship lay on the beach, she became so 112 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. OLD WRECKS ON THE BEACH. deeply buried in the sand that a person might walk on board without diffi- culty. Ways were built underneath her, and, after a terrible wrenching, she was got afloat. Heavy objects, such as kegs of lead paint, and even pigs of iron, have been exposed by the action of the waves, after having, in some in- stances, been twenty years under the surface. I have picked up whole bricks, lost overboard from some coaster, that have come ashore with their edges smoothly rounded by the abrasion of the sand and sea. There is an authen- tic account of the re- appearance of a wrecked ship's caboose more than a hundred and seventy years after her loss on Cajje Cod. After a heavy east- erly gale, the beach is always sprinkled with a fine, dark gravel, which disap- pears again with a few days of ordinary weather. Besides being the inexhaustible resource of summer idlers, the beach has its practical aspects. The sand, fine, white, and "sharp," is not only used by builders — and there is no fear of exhausting the supply — but is hauled away by farmers along shore, and housed in their barns as bedding for cattle, or to mix with heavy soils. The sea-weed and kelp that comes ashore in such vast quantities after a heavy blow is carefully harvested, and goes to enrich the lands with its lime and salt. It formerly supplied the commercial demand for soda, and was gathered on the coasts of Ireland, Scotland, France, and Spain for the purpose. It is the varec of Brittany and Normandy, the hlan- quette of Frontignan and Aigues-raortes, and the salicor of Narbonne. After being dried, it was reduced to ashes in rude furnaces. Iodine is also the product of sea-weed. You may sometimes see at high-water mark winrows of Irish moss {carrageen) bleaching in the sun, though for my blanc-mange I give the preference to that cast up on the shingle, as more free from sand. This plant grows only on the farthest ledges. The pebble usually heaped above the line of sand, or in little coves among the ledges, is used for ballast, and for mending roads and garden-walks. Turning to the sandy waste that FROM WELLS TO OLD YORK. 113 skirts the beach, I seldom fail of finding the beach-pea, with its beautiful blos- soms of blue and purple. In spring the vine is edible, and has been long used for food by the poorer people. The beach is much frequented after a storm by crows in quest of a dinner alfresco. They haunt it as persistently as do the wreckers, and seldom fail of finding a stranded fish, a crab, or a mussel. They are the self-appointed scavengers of the strand, removing much of the ofial cast up by the sea. The crow is a crafty fellow, and knows a thing or two, as I have had reason to observe. The large sea-mussel is much afiected by him, and when found is at once pounced upon. Taking it in his talons, the crow flies to the nearest ledge of rocks, and, calculating his distance with mathematical eye, lets his prize fall. Of course the mussel is dashed in pieces, and the crow proceeds to make a frugal meal. I have seen this operation frequently repeated, and have as often scared the bird from his repast to convince myself of his suc- cess. His method of taking the clam is equally ingenious. He walks upon the clam-bank at low tide, and seizes upon the first unlucky head he finds pro- truding from the shell. Then ensues a series of laughable efforts on the crow's pan to rise with his prey, while the clam tries in vain to draw in its head. The crow, after many sharp tugs and much flapping of his wings, finally se- cures the clam, and disposes of him as he would of a mussel. The Indians, whose chief dependence in summer was upon shell-fish, complained that the English swine watched the receding tide as their women were accustomed to do, feeding on the clams they turned up with their snouts. In the olden time the beach was the high-road over which the settlers traveled when, as was long the case, it was their only way of safety. It was often beset with danger; so much so that tradition says the mail from Ports- mouth to Wells was for seven years brought by a dog, the pouch being at- tached to his collar. This faithful messenger was at last killed by the sav- ages. For miles around this bay the long-abandoned King's Highway may be traced where it hugged the verge of the shore, climbing the roughest ledges, or crossing from one beach to another by a strip of shingle. Here and there an old cellar remains to identify its course and tell of the stern lives those pioneers led. When the tide is out, I also keep at low-water mark, scrambling over ledges, or delving among the crannies for specimens. It does not take long to fill your pockets with many-hued pebbles of quartz, jasper, or porphyry that, in going a few rods farther, you are sure to reject for others more brill- iant. At full sea I walk along the shore, where, from between those envi- ous little stone walls, I can still survey the Unchanged. After all that has been printed since the " Tractatus Petri Hispani," it is a question whether there are not as many popular superstitions to-day among plain New England counti-y-folk as at any time since the settlement of the 114 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. country. The belief in the virtue of a horseshoe is unabated. At York I saw one nailed to the end of a coaster's bowsprit. To spill salt, break a look- ing-glass, or dream of a white horse, are still regarded as of sinister augury. A tooth-pick made from a splinter of a tree that has been struck by lightning- is a sure preventive of the toothache. Exceeding all these, however, is the generally accepted superstition that has led to the practice of bathing on Saco Beach on the 26th of June in each year. On this day, it is religiously believed that the waters, like Slloam of old, have miraculous power of healing all diseases with which humanity is afflicted. The people flock to the beach from all the country round, in every description of vehicle, to dij? in the en- chanted tide. A similar belief existed with regard to a medicinal spring on the River Dee, in Scotland, called Januarich Wells, one author gravely assert- ing that so great was the faith in its efficacy that those afflicted with broken legs have gone there for restoration of the limb. I have found it always impracticable to argue with the pilgrims as to the grounds of their belief. They are ready to recount any number of wonder- ful cures at too great a distance for my investigation to reach, and may not, therefore, be gainsaid. It is a custom. All this time I was nearing Ogunquit, a little fishing village spliced to the outskirts of Wells, being itself within the limits of York. At my i-ight I caught a glimpse of the green bulk of Mount Agamenticus, and on the oth- er hand, almost at my elbow, was the sea. So we marched on, as it were, arm in arm ; for I was beginning to feel pretty well acquainted with a companion that kept thus constantly at my side. This morning it was Prussian blue, which it presently put off for a warmer hue. There it lay, sunning itself, cool, silent, impenetrable, like a great blue turquoise on the bare bosom of Mother Earth, nor looking as if a little ruffling of its surface could put it in such a towering passion. My sachel always contains a luncheon, a book, and a telescopic drinking- cup. At noon, having left eight miles of road behind me, I sought the shel- ter of a tree by the roadside, and found my appetite by no means impaired by the jaunt. At such a time I read, like Rousseau, while eating, in default of a tete-a-tete. I alternately devour a page and a piece. While under ray tree, a cow came to partake of the shade, of which there was enough for both of us. She gazed at me with a calm, but, as I conceived also, a puzzled look, ruminating meanwhile, or stretching out her head and snuffing the air within a foot of my hand. Perhaps she was wondering whether I had two stomachs, and a tail to brush off the flies. From the village of Ogunquit there are two roads. I chose the one which kept the shore, in order to take in my way Bald Head Clift", a natural curios- ity well worth going some distance to see. The road so winds across the rocky waste on which the village is in part built that in some places you al- most double on your own footsteps. Occasionally a narrow lane issues from FROM WELLS TO OLD YORK. 115 among the ledges, tumbling rather than descending to some little cove, where you catch a glimpse of brovvn-i'oofed cottages and a fishing-boat or two, snug- ly moored. The inhabitants say there is not enough soil in Ogunquit with which to repair the roads, a statement no one who tries it with a vehicle will be inclined to dispute. Literally the houses are built upon rocks, incrusted with j^ellow lichens in room of grass. Wherever a dip occurs through which a little patch of blue sea peeps out, a house is posted, and I saw a few care- fully-tended garden spots among hollows of the rock in which a handful of mould had accumulated. The wintry aspect is little short of desolation : in storms, from its elevation and exposure, the place receives the full shock of the tempest, as you may see by the Aveather- stained appearance of the houses. A native directed me by a short cut " how to take another ox-bow out of the road," and in a few minutes I stood on the brow of the cliff. What a sight ! The eye spans twenty miles of sea horizon. Wells, with its white meeting-houses and shore hotels, was behind me. Far up in the bight of the bay Great Hill headland, Hart's and Gooch's beaches — the latter mere rib- bons of white sand — gleamed in the sunlight. Kennebunkport and its ship- yards lay beneath yonder smoky cloud, with Cape Porpoise Light beyond. There, below me, looking as if it had floated off from the main, was the barren rock called the Nubble, the farthest land in this direction, with Cape Xeddock harbor in full view. All the rest was ocean. The mackerel fleet that I had seen all day — fifty sail, sixty, yes, and more — was off Boon Island, with their jibs down, the solitary gray shaft of the light -house standing grimly up among the white sails, a mile-stone of the sea. There are very few who would be able to approach the farthest edge of the precipice called the Pulpit, and bend over its sheer face Avithout a quick- ening of the pulse. As in all these grand displays in which Nature puts forth her powers, you shrink in proportion as she exalts herself. For the time being, at least, the conceit is taken out of you, and you are thoroughly put down. Here is a perpendicular wall of rock ninety feet in height (as well as I could estimate it), and about a hundred and fifty in length, with a greater than Ni- agara raging at its foot — a rock buttress, with its foundations deeply root- ed in the earth, breasting off the Atlantic ; and the massy fragments lying splintered at its base, or heaved loosely about the summit, told of many a desperate wrestling-match, with a constant gain for the old athlete. The sea is gnawing its way into the coast slowly, but as surely as the cataract is approaching the lake ; and the cliff, though it may for a thousand years oppose this terrible battering, will at last, like some sea fortress, crumble before it. Underneath the cliff is one of those curious basins hollowed out almost with the regularity of art, in which a vessel of large tonnage might be float- ed. On the farther side of this basin, the ledges, thougli jagged and wave- 116 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. worn, descend with regular incline, making a sort of j)latforrn. On the top of the cliff the rock debris and line of soil show unmistakably that in severe gales the sea leaps to this great height, drenching the summit with salt spray. At such a time the sea must be superb, though awful ; for I doubt if a human being could stand erect before such a storm. The exposed side of Bald Head Cliff faces south of east, and is the result of ages of wear and teai*. The sea undermines it, assails it in front and from all sides. Here are dikes, as at Star Island, in which the trap-rock has given way to the continual pounding, thus affording a vantage-ground for the great lifting power of the waves. The strata of rock lie in perpendicular masses, welded together as if by fire, and injected with crystal quartz seams, knotted like veins in a Titan's forehead. Blocks of granite weighing many tons, honey-combed by the action of the water, are loosely piled where the cliff overhangs the waves; and you may descend by regular steps to the verge of the abyss. The time to inspect this curiosity is at low tide, when, if there be sea enough, the waves come grandly in, whelming the shaggy rocks, down whose sides a hundred miniature cascades pour as the waters recede. Beneath the cliff the incoming tides have worn the trap-rock to glassy smoothness, rendering it difficult to walk about when they are wetted by the spray. From this stand-point it is apparent the wall that rises before you is the remaining side of one of those chasms which the sea has driven right into the heart of the crag. The other face is what lies scattered about on all sides in picturesque ruin. If the view from the summit was invigorating, the sit- uation below was far from inspiring. It needed all the cheerful light and warmth the afternoon sun could give to brighten up that bleak and rugged shore. The spot had for me a certain sombre fascination ; for it was here, more than thirty years ago, the Isidore, a brand-new vessel, and only a few hours from port, was lost with every soul on board. Often have I heard the tale of that winter's night from relatives of the ill-fated ship's crew; and as I stood here within their tomb, realizing the hopelessness of human effort when opposed to those merciless crags, I thought of Schiller's lines : " Oh many a bark to that breast grappled fast Has gone down to the fearful and fathomless grave ; Again, crashed together the keel and the mast, To be seen tossed aloft in the glee of the wave! Like the growth of a storm, ever louder and clearer, Grows the roar of the gulf rising nearer and nearer." Over there, where the smoke lies above the tree-tops, is Kennebunkport,' where they build as staunch vessels as float on any sea. The village and its ship-yards lie along the banks of a little river, or, more properly speaking, an arm of the sea. It is a queer old place, or rather was, before it became trans- ' Once, and much better, Arundel, from the Earl of Arundel. FROM WELLS TO OLD YORK. 117 lated into a summer resort; but now silk jostles homespun, and for three months in the year it is invaded by an army of pleasure-seekers, who ransack its secret places, and after taking their fill of sea and shore, flee before the first frosts of autumn. The town then hibernates. The Isidore was built a few miles up river, where the stream is so narrow and crooked that you can scarce conceive how ships of any size could be suc- cessfully launched. At a point below the "Landing" the banks are so near together as to admit of a lock to retain the full tide when a launch took place. A big ship usually brings up in the soft ooze of the opposite bank, but is got off at the next flood by the help of a few yoke of oxen and a strong hawser. Besides its ship-building, Kennebunkport once boasted a considerable com- merce with the West Indies, and the foundations of many snug fortunes have been laid in rum and sugar. The decaying wharves and empty warehouses now tell their own story. I was one afternoon at the humble cottage of a less ancient, though more coherent, mariner than Coleridge's, who, after forty years battling with storms, was now laid up like an old hulk that will never more be fit for sea. Togeth- er we rehearsed the first and last voyage of the Isidore. " Thirty years ago come Thanksgiving," said Ben, in a voice pitched be- low his usual key, " the Isidore lay at the wharf with her topsails loose, wait- ing for a slant of wind to put to sea. She was named for the builder's daugh- ter, a mighty pretty gal, sir; but the boys didn't like the name because it sounded outlandish-like, and would have rather had an out-an'-out Yankee one any day of the week." "There is, then," I suggested, " something in a name at sea as well as ashore ?" "Lor' bless your dear soul, I've seen them barkeys as could almost ship a crew for nothing, they had such spanking, saucy names. Captain R was as good a sailor as ever stepped, but dretful profane. He was as brave as a lion, and had rescued the crew of an Englishman from certain death while drifting a helpless wreck before a gale. No boat could live in the sea that was running; but Captain R bore down for the sinking ship, and passed it so close that the crew saved themselves by jumping aboard of him. Seven or eight times he stood for that wreck, until all but one man were saved. He had the ill-luck afterward to get a cotton ship ashore at Three Acres, near where the Isidore was lost, and said, as I've heard, ' he hoped the next ves- sel that went ashore he should be under her keel.' He had his wish, most likely. "The Isidore was light, just on top of water, and never ought to have gone to sea in that plight ; but she had been a good while wind-bound, and all hands began to be impatient to be off. Her crew, fifteen as likely lads as ever reefed a topsail, all belonged in the neighborhood. One of 'em didn't feel noways right about the v'y'ge, and couldn't make up his mind to go un- 118 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. til the ship was over the bar, when he had to be set aboard in a when-y. Another dreamed three nights running the same dream, and every blessed time he saw the Isidore strike on a lee shore with the sea a-flying as high as the maintop. Every time he woke np in a cold sweat, with the cries of his shipmates ringing in his ears as plain as we hear the rote on Gooch's Beach this minute. So, when the Isidore set her colors and dropped down the river, Joe, though he had signed the articles and got the advance, took to the woods. Most every body thought it scandalous for the ship to unmoor, but Captain R said he would go to sea if he went to h — 1 the next minute. Dretful profane man, sir — dretfnl. "The weather warn't exactly foul weather, and the sea was smooth enough, but all the air there was was dead ahead, and it looked dirty to wind'ard. The ship slipped out through the piers, and stood off to the east- 'ard on the port tack. I recollect she was so nigh the shore that I could see who was at the wheel. She didn't work handy, for all the ropes were new and full of turns, and I knew they were having it lively aboard of her. Early in the afternoon it began to snow, first lightly, then thick and fast, and the wind began to freshen up considerable. The ship made one or two tacks to work out of the bay, but about four o'clock it closed in thick, and we lost her. " I saw the Nubble all night long, for the snow come in gusts ; but it blowed fresh from the uo'th-east ; //-esA," he repeated, raising his eyes to mine and shaking his gray head by way of emphasis. " I was afeard the ship was in the bay, and couldn't sleep, but went to the door and looked out between whiles." It was, indeed, as I have heard, a dreadful night, and many a vigil was kept by wife, mother, and sweetheart. At day-break the snow lay heaped in drifts in the village streets and garden areas. It was not long before a mes- senger came riding in at full speed with the news that the shores of Ogun- quit were fringed with the wreck of a large vessel, and that not one of her crew Avas left to tell the tale. The Avord passed from house to house. Si- lence and gloom reigned within the snow-beleaguered village. It was supposed the ship struck about midnight, as the Ogunquit fisher- men heard in their cabins cries and groans at this hour above the noise of the tempest. They Avere powerless to aid ; no boat could have been launch- ed in that sea. If any lights were shown on board the ship, tliey Avere not seen ; neither Avere any guns heard. The ropes, stiffened with ice, would not run through the sheaves, Avhich rendered the working of the ship difficult, if not impossible. No doubt the doomed vessel drove helplessly to her de- struction, the frozen sails hanging idly to the yards, Avhile her exhausted crew miserably perished Avith the lights of their homes before tlieir eyes. All the morning after the Avreck the people along shore Avere searching amidst the tangled masses of drift and sea-wrack the storm had cast up for FROM WELLS TO OLD YORK. 119 THE MORNING KOUND. the remains of the crew. They were too much mangled for recognition, ex- cept in a single instance. Captain G , a passenger, had by accident put on his red-flannel drawers the wrong side out the morning the Isidore sailed, observing to his wife that, as it was good luck, he would not change them. One leg was found en- cased in the drawers. The mutilated frag- ments were brought to the village, and buried in a common grave. Some of the old people at the Port declare to this day that on the night of the wreck they heard shrieks as plainly as ever issued from human throats; and you could not ar- gue it out of them, though the spot where the Isidore's anchors were found is ten miles away. As for Joe B , the runaway, he can not refrain from shedding tears when the Isidore is mentioned. " But, Ben, do you believe in dreams ?" I asked, with my hand on the latch. " B'leeve in dreams !" he repeated ; " why, Joe's a living man ; but where's his mates ?" Perhaps they "Died as men should die, clinging round their lonely wreck, Their winding-sheet the sky, and their sepulchre the deck; And the steersman held the helm till his breath Grew faint and fainter still ; There was one short fatal thrill, Then he sank into the chill Arms of Death." I turned away from the spot with the old sailor's words in mind : "A wicked place where she struck ; and the sea drove right on. A ragged place, sir — ragged." Leaving the cliif, I struck across the pastures to the road, making no fir- ther halt except to gather a few huckleberries that grew on high bushes by the roadside. The fruit is large, either black or blue, with an agreeable though different flavor from any of the low -bushed varieties. The local name for the shrub is " bilberry." It frequently grows higher than a man's head, and a single one will often yield nearly a quart. 120 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. It was a year of plenty, and I liad seen the pickers busy in the ben-y pastures as I passed by. The fruit, being for the time a sort of currency — not quite so hard, by-tlie-bye, as the musket-bullets of the colonists — is re- ceived in barter at the stores. Whole families engage in the harvest, making fair wages, the annual yield exceeding in value tliat of the corn crop of the State. Maine grows her corn on the Western prairies, and pays for it with canned fish and berries. At the village store I saw a woman drive up with a bushel of huckle- berries, with which she bought enough calico for a gown, half a pound of tobacco, and some knickknacks for the children at home. Affixed in a con- spicuous place to the wall was the motto, " Quick sales and small profits." Half an hour was spent in beating the shop-keeper down a cent in the yard, and another quarter of an hour to induce him to " heave in," as she said, a spool of cotton. The man, after stoutly contesting the claim, finally yielded both points. " The woman," thought I, "evidently only half believes in your seductive motto." All along the road I had met Avomen and children, going or returning, with pails or baskets. One man, evidently a fast picker, had filled the sleeves of liis jacket with berries, after having first tied them at the wrists. Anoth- er, who vaulted over the stone wall at my side, when asked if he was going to try the huckleberries, replied, " Wa'al, yes; think I'll try and accumulate a few." Descending the last hill before reaching Cape Neddock Harbor, I had a good view of the Nubble, which several writers have believed was the Savage Rock of Gosnold, and the first land in New England to receive an English name. The reliable accounts of the early voyagers to our coasts are much too vague to enable later historians to fix the points where they made the land with the confidence with which many undertake to fix them. A care- I'ul examination of these accounts justifies the opinion that Gosnold made his land-fall ofi" Agamenticus, and first dropped anchor, since leaving Falmouth, at Cape Ann. The latitude, if accurately taken, would of itself put the ques- tion beyond controversy; but as the methods of observing the exact position of a ship were greatly inferior to what they became later in the seventeenth century, I at first doubted, and was then constrained to admit, that the reck- oning of Gosnold, Pring, and Champlain ought to be accepted as trustworthy. Gabriel Archer, who Avas with Gosnold, says,"They held themselves by compu- tation well neere the latitude of 43 degrees," or a little northward of the Isles of Shoals. John Brereton, also of Gosnold's company, says they fell in with the coast in thick weather, and first made land with the lead. By all accounts the Concord, Gosnold's ship, wns to the northward of Cape Ann. Land was sighted at six in the morning of the 14th of May, 1602, and Gosnold stood "fair along by the shore" until noon, which would have carried him across Ipswich Bay, even if the Concord we\'ible in one hand and a musket in the other? ' See " Massachisetts Histoiinil Collections," vol. iii., p. G3. 182 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. Morton defied the proclamation of the king promulgated in 1622, saying there was no penalty attached to it. Its terms forbade " any to trade to the portion of America called New England, being the whole breadth of the land between forty and forty-eight degrees of north latitude, excepting those of the Virginia Company, the plantation having been much injured by interlo- pers, who have injured the woods, damaged the harbors, trafficked with the savages, and even sold them weapons, and taught them the use thereof"' Of the May-jjole, which the Pilgrims regarded with grim discontent, Stubbes gives the manner in England of bringing it home from the woods. "But," he says, "their cheefest Jewell they bring home with greate vener- ation, as thus: they have twentie or fourtie yoke of oxen, every oxe hav- yng a sweete nosegaie of flowers tyed on the tippe of his homes, and these oxen drawe home this Maie-poole, which is covered all over with flowers and hearbes, bounde rounde aboute with stringes from the top to the bottome, and sometyme painted with variable colours, with two or three hundred men, women, and children followyng it with great devotion. And thus beying reared up with handkercheifes and flagges streamyng on the toppe, they strawe the grounde aboute, binde green boughes about it, sett up Sommer haules, Bowers, and Arbours hard by. And then fall they to banquet and feast, to leape and dance aboute it, as the Heathen people did at the dedica- tion of their idolles, whereof this is a perfect patterne, or rather the thynge itself." SMUTTY NOSE. Smutty Nose, the most verdant of the islands, was one of the earliest set- tled. The stranger for the first time feels something like soil beneath his feet. There is a wharf and a little landing-place, Avhere a boat may be ^ Eiitisli State Fnpeis, Calendars. THE ISLES OF SHOALS, 183 beached. When within Haley's little cove, I looked down into the water, and saw the perch (cunners) swimming lazily about. This was the only place where the old-time industry of the isles showed even a flake, so to speak, of its former greatness. There were a few men engaged in drying their fish near the landing. Clear weather with westerly winds is best for this purpose ; dull or foggy weather spoils the fish. HALEY DOCK AND HOMESTEAD. (In the third House from the left the Waguer Murder was committed.) At a little distance, shorn of some of its former adornments, is the home- stead of Samuel Haley, who with his two sons and their families occupied the island many years ago. Not far off is the little family grave-yard of the Haleys, with the palings falling in decay, and the mounds overgrown with a tangle of rank grass. At one time, by his energy, Mr. Haley had made of his island a self-sustaining possession. Before the Revolution he had built a windmill, salt-works, and rope-walk ; a bakehouse, brewery, distillery, black- smith's and cooper's shops succeeded in the first year of peace — all going to decay within his lifetime. By all report of him, he was a good and humane man, and I hereby set up his prostrate grave-stone on my page: "IN MEMORY OF MR. SAMUEL HALEY Who died in the year 1811 Aged 84 He was a man of great Ingenuity Industry Honor and Honesty, true to his Country & A man who did A great • Public good in Building A Dock & Receiving into his Enclosure many a poor Distressed Seaman & Fisherman In distress of Weather." 184 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. A few steps farther on are the graves of fourteen shipwrecked mariners, marked by rude boulders. It is entered in the Gosport records: " 1813, Jan. 14:th, sliip Sagimto stranded on Smutty Nose Isle; Jan. ISifA, one man found; l%th, six men found ; 2lst, seven men found." The record sums up the num- ber as twelve bodies found, whereas the total appears to be fourteen. Although the ship Saffimto was not stranded on Smutty Nose Isle, the wreck of a ship, either Spanish or Portuguese, with all on board, remains a terrible fact but too well attested by these graves.' The horror of the event is deepened and strengthened by the simple word " Unknown." "When this ship crashed and filled and went down, the Sagunto was lying, after a terrible buffeting, within a safe harbor. It was in a blinding snow-storm, and a gale that strewed the shore from the Penobscot to Hatteras with wrecks, that a ship built of cedar and ma- hogany was thrown on these rocks. Not a living soul M^as left to tell the tale of that bitter January night. The ill-fated vessel was richly laden, no doubt, for boxes of raisins and almonds from Malaga drifted on shore the next morning. On a piece of the wreck that came in a silver watch of English make was found, with the letters "P. S." graven on the seals ; and among the debris was a Spanish and part of an American ensign, for it was war-time then between England and the American States. The watch had stopped at ex- actly four o'clock, or when time ceased for those hapless Spaniards. There were also found some twenty letters, addressed south of New York. Conjec- ture said it was a Spanish ship from Cadiz, bound for Philadel23hia. This is the story of this little clump of graves, and of the wreck, to this day unknown. It has been told many times in prose and poetry, but not oft- en truly. Samuel Haley had been quietly lying in his grave two years. The reader may or may not believe he found the frozen bodies of some of the crew next morning reclining on his wall. Here is a wild flower of island growth, of a handful cast upon these fading mounds : "O sailors, did sweet eyes look after you The day you sailed away from sunny Spain ? Bright eyes that followed fading ship and crew, Melting in tender rain?" I wondered that these fourteen the old sea had strangled and flung up here could rest so peacefully in ground unblessed by Holy Church. Per- chance the spot has witnessed midnight mass, with incense and with missal : no doubt beads have been told, and a, pater and ave said by pious pilgrims. ' Spanish ship Sagunto, Carrera, seventy-three days from Cadiz for New York, arrived at New- port on Monday, January lltli, out of provisions and water, and the crew frost-bitten. Cargo, wine, raisins, and salt. Saw no English cruisers, and spoke only one vessel, a Baltimore priva- teer. — Columbian Centinel, January 16th, 1813. THE ISLES OP' SHOALS. 185 It is not pleasant to think that the island lias become more widely known through the medium of an atrocious murder coniniitted here in March, 1873. Formerly the islanders dated from some well-remembered wreck ; now it is before or since the murder on Smutty Nose they reckon. On the morning of March 6th the Norwegian who lives opposite Star Isl- and, on Appledore, heard a cry for help. Going to the shore, he saw a wom- an standing on the rocks of Malaga in her night-dress. He crossed over and brought the poor creature to his cottage, when it ajipeared that her feet were frozen. She was half dead with fright and exposure, but told her tale as soon as she was able. John Ilontvet, a fisherman, occupied one of the three houses on Smutty Nose ; the third counting from the little cove, as you look at it from Star Isl- and. On the night of the 5th of March he was at Portsmouth, leaving three women — Mary, liis wife; Annethe and Karen Christensen — at home. They went to bed as usual, Annethe with Mrs. Hontvet in the bedroom; Karen on a couch in the kitchen. It was a fine moonlight night, though cold, and there was snow on the ground. Some time during the night a man entered the house, it is supposed for the purpose of robbery. lie fastened the door between the kitchen, which he first entered, and the bedroom, thus isolating the sleeping women. Karen, having awoke, cried out, when she was attacked bj^ the intruder with a chair. The noise having aroused the two women in the bedroom, Mary Hontvet jumped out of bed, forced open the door leading into the kitchen, and suc- ceeded in getting hold of the wounded girl, Karen, wdiom she drew within her own chamber. All this took place in the dark. Mary then bade Annethe, her brother's wife, to jump out of the w'indow, and she did so, but was too much terrified to go beyond the corner of the house. Mary, meanwhile, was holding the door of the kitchen against the attempts of their assailant to force it open. Foiled here, the villain left the house, and meeting the young wife, Annethe, was seen by Mary, in the clear moonlight, to deal her three terrible blows with an axe. But before she Avas struck down the girl had recognized her murderer, and shrieked out, " Louis, Louis !" After this accursed deed the man went back to the house, and ]Mary also made her escape by the window. Karen was too badly hurt to follow. Tlie clear-grit Norw^egian w^oman ran first to the dock, but finding no boat there, hid herself among the rocks. She durst not shout, for fear the sound of her voice -would bring the murderer to the spot. There she remained, like anotli- er Betty Moody, until sunrise, when she took courage and went across the sea-wall to IMalaga and was rescued, I was told that when she fied, with rare presence of mind, she took her little dog under her arm, for fear it might prove her destruction. It resulted that Louis Wagner, a Prussian, was ari-ested, tried for the mur- der, and condemned as guilty. The fatal recognition by Annethe, the figure 186 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. seen with uplifted axe through the window by Mary, and the prisoner's ab- sence from his lodgings on the night of the murder, pointed infallibly to him as the chief actor in this night of horrors. To have committed this crime he must have rowed from Portsmouth to the Islands and back again on the night in question ; no great feat for one of those hardy islanders, and Wagner was noted for muscular strength. It is said he was of a churlish disposition, and would seldom speak unless addressed, when he would answer shortly. He was not considered a bad fellow, but a poor companion. I went to the house. Relic-hunters had left it in a sorry jDlight; taking away even the sashes of the windows, shelves, and every thing movable. Even the paper had been torn from the walls, and carried off for its blood-stains. Hontvet described, with the phlegm of his race, the appearance of the house on the morning of the tragedy : " Karen lay dere ; Annethe lay here," he said. I saw they were preparing to make it habitable again : better burn it, say I. We had a sun-dog at evening and a rainbow in the morning, full-arched, and rising out of the sea, a sure forerunnei", say veteran observers, of foul Aveather. Says the quatrain of the forecastle : Kainbow in the morning, Sailors take warning ; Rainbow at night, Is the sailor's delight." LEDGE OF ROCKS, SMUTTY NOSE. I spent a quiet, breezy afternoon in exploring Appledore. The landing from the harbor side has to be made in some cleft of the rock, and is not prac- ticable when there is a sea running. Passing by the cottage at the shore, I first went up the I'ocky declivity to the site of the abandoned settlement of so long ago. It may still be recognized by the cellars, rough stone walls, and fragments of bricks lying scattered about. Thistles, raspberry-bushes, and dwarf cherry-trees in fragrant bloom, were growing in the depressions which THE ISLES OF SHOALS. isr marked these broken hearth-stones of a forgotten people. The poisonous ivy, sometimes called mercury, so often found clinging to old walls, was here. Some country- folk pretend its potency is such that they who look on it are inoculated with the poison; a scratch, as I know to my cost, will suffice. Here was a strip of green grass running along the harbor side, and, for the first time, the semblance of a road; I followed it until it lost itself among the rocks. A horse and a yoke of oxen were browsing by the way, and on a distant shelf of rock I saw a cow, __=,=,^,«=, ^^y T^==i^ much exaggera- ^^ " ted in size, con- tentedly rumina- tive. Clumps of huckleberry and fragrant bayber- ry Avere frequent, with blackberry and other vines clustering above the surface rocks. 1 am inclined to doubt whether, after all, the hab- itation of Apple- dore' was aban- doned on account of the Indians, for Star Island, as has been remarked, could give no bet- ter security. Prob- ably the landing- had much to do with it. With- out some moving , , . , , . SOUTH-EAST END OF APPLEDORE, LOOKING SOUTH. cause the mhabit- ants would hardly have left Appledore and its verdure for the bald crags of ' Appledore, a small sea-port of England, County of Devon, parish of Northampton, on the Torridge, at its mouth in Barnstable Bay, two and a quarter miles north of Bideford. It is resort- ed to in summer as a bathing-place, and has a harbor subordinate to the port of Barnstable. — "Gazetteer." 188 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. Star Island. The choice of Appleclore by the first settlers was probably due to its spring of pure water, the only one on the islands. The year 1628 is the first in which we can locate actual settlers at the Shoals. Mr. Jeffrey and Mr. Burslein, then assessed two pounds for the ex- penses of Morton's afiair, are supposed to have been living there. By 1640 the Rev. Mr. Hull, of Agamenticus, paid parochial visits to the Isles, and some time before 1661, says Dr. Morse, they had a meeting-house on Hog Island, though the service of the Church of England was the first perform- ed there. The three brothers Cutt, of Wales, settled there about 1645, re- moving soon to the main-land, where they became distinguished. Antipas Maverick is mentioned as resident in 1647. Another settler whom the chronicles do not omit was William Pepperell, of Cornwall, England, father of the man of Louisburg, who was here about 1676. The removal of the brothers Cutt within two years, and of Pepperell and Gibbons after a brief residence, does not confirm the view that the islands at that early day pos- sessed attractions to men of the better class sometimes claimed for them. Pepperell and Gibbons left the clioice of a fuiure residence to chance, with an indifference worthy a Bedouin of the Great Desert. Holding their staves between thumb and finger until perpendicularly poised, they let them fall, departing, the tradition avers, in the direction in which each pointed — Pep- perell to Kittery, Gibbons to Muscongus. The first woman mentioned who came to reside at Hog Island was Mrs. John Reynolds, and she came in defiance of an act of court prohibiting wom- en from living on the islands. One of the Cutts, Richard by name, petition- ed for her removal, together with the hogs and swine running at large on the island belonging to John Reynolds. The court, however, permitted her to remain during good behavior. This occurred in 1647. It gives a glimpse DUCK ISLAND, FROM ArPLEDOKli. THE ISLES OF SHOALS.. 189 of what society must hitherto have been on the islands to call for such enact- ments. No wonder men of substance left the worse than barren rocks, and that right speedily. I walked around the shores of Appledore, stopping to explore the chasms in my way. One of them I could liken to nothing but a coffin, it seemed so exactly fashioned to receive the hull of some unlucky ship. On some of the rocks I remarked impressions, as if made with the heel of a human foot. In the offing Duck Island showed its jagged teeth, around which the tide swell- ed and broke until it seemed frothing at the mouth. Another Smith's monument is on the highest part of the island, all the others being within view from it. It is a rude cairn of rough stone, thrown together vi'ith little effort at regularity. The surface stones are overgrown with lichens, which add to its appearance of antiquity. It is known to have stood here rather more than a century, and is said to have been built by Cap- tain John Smith himself Howsoever the tradition may have originated, it is all we have, and are so fiiin to be content ; but I marvel that so modest a man as Captain John should have said nothing about it in the book writ- with his own hand. By some the monument has been believed to be a beacon built to mark the fishing-grounds. Smith arrived at Monhegan in April, 1614, and was back again at Plym- outh, England, on the 5th of August. He was one of those who came to " fish and trade," seeking out the habitations of the Indians for his purpose. There were no savages at the Isles.' Of his map Smith writes: "Although there be many things to be observed which the haste of other afi"airs did cause me to omit, for being sent more to get present commodities than knowledge by discoveries for any future good, I had not power to search as I would," etc. I should add, in passing, that Smith, who admits having seen the relation of Gosnold, does not allow him the credit of the name he gave to Martha's Vineyard, but speaks of it as Capawock. One of the remarkable features of Appledore is the valley issuing from the cove, dividing the island in two. This ravine is a real curiosity, the great depression occurring where the hotel buildings are situated affording a snug cove on the west of the island. Just behind the house enough soil had ac- cumulated to furnish a thriving and well-kept vegetable garden, evidently an object of solicitude to the proprietors. From the veranda of the hotel you may see the ocean on the east and the bay on the west. In Mr. Hawthorne's account of his visit here in 1852, he relates that in the same storm that overthrew Minot's Light, a great wave passed entirely through this valley; " and," he continues, " Laighton describes it when it came in from the sea as toppling over to the height of the cupola of his hotel. It roared and whitened through, from sea to sea, twenty feet abreast, rolling along huge ' Levett says, "Upon these islunds are no salvages at all." 190 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. rocks in its passage. It passed beneath Ins veranda, which stands on posts, and probably filled the valley completely. Would I had been here to see !" When I came back to the harbor side, both wind and tide had risen. I was ferried across by a lad of not more than ten years. At times the swift current got the better and swept the boat to leeward, but he stoutly refused to give me the oars, the pride of an islander being involved in the matter. The little fellow flung his woolen cap to the bottom of the dory, his hair fly- ing loosely in the wind as he bent to his task. After taking in more water than was for our comfort, he was at last obliged to accept my aid. These islanders are amphibious, brought up with " one foot on sea, one foot on shore." I doubt if half their lives are passed on terra firma. Duck Island is for the sportsman. He will find there in proper season the canvas-back, mallard, teal, white-wing- ed coot, sheldrake, etc. Few land, ex- cept gunners in pui'suit of sea-fowl. I contented myself Avith sailing along its shores, w^atching the play of the surf and the gambols of a colony of small sea-gulls that seemed in peaceable possession. Duck Island proper has a cluster of wicked-looking ledges encircling it from south-west to south-east. The mariner should give it a wide berth. Its ill-shapen rocks project on all sides, and a reef makes out half a mile into the sea from the north-west. Shag and Mingo are two of its satellites. This island was resorted to by the Indians for the seals frequenting it. I had observed lying above the landing on Star Island a queer-looking craft, which might with great propriety be called a shell. It consisted of a frame of slats neatly fitted together, over which a covering of tarred canvas had been stretched. I at first thought some Kanaka's canoe had found its way through the North-west Passage, and drifted in here ; but Mr. Poor as- sured me it belonged on the islands, and was owned and sailed by Tom Leha, whose dwelling on Londoner's he pointed out. As Tom Leha was the Celtic skipper of the Creed^ I had some speech of him. His boat, he said, was laiguton's grave. THE ISLES OF SHOALS. 191 such as is used in the Shannon, where it is called the " saint's canoe," be- cause first used by one of the Irish saints. It was a good surf-boat, light as a cork, and as buoyant. One night Leha, with his wife and three children, arrived at the Shoals in his canoe, Avhich a strong man might easily carry. No one knew whence tliey came. Their speech was unintelligible. There they were, and there they seemed inclined to remain. Your bona fide Shoaler likes not intruders. The islanders gave Leha and his a cold welcome, but this did not discompose him. He was faithful and industrious, and in time saved money enough to buy Londoner's. He waved his hand toward his island home, as if to say, "An ill-favored thing, sir, but mine own." As seen from Star Island, Londoner's shows two rugged knobs connected by a narrower strip of shingle. It has its cove, and a reasonably good land- LON doner's, from STAR ISLAND ing. Half-way between it and Star are hidden rocks over which the sea breaks. It was not occupied by its owner when I was there. It was a lovely morning when I rowed over to White Island. Once clear of the harbor, I found outside what sailors call " an old sea," the relics of the late north-easter. But these wherries will live in any sea that runs on the New England coast, I have heard of the Bank fishermen being out in them for days together when their vessel could not lie at anchor in the tre- mendous swell. White Island is now the most picturesque of the group, a distinction once conceded to Star. It owes this preference to its light-house, standing on a cliff at the east head of the isle, that rises full fifty feet out of water; at least it seemed so high to me as I lay underneath it in my little boat at low tide. Against this clift'the waves continually swelled, rushing into crannies, where 192 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. I could hear them gurgling and soughing as if some monster were choking to death in their depths. This is not so forbidding as Boon Island, but it is enough. The light- house was of brick, as I could see where the Aveather had worn off last year's coat of whitewash. It was not yet time for the tender to come and brighten it up again. The long gallery conducting from the keej^er's cottage up to the tower was once torn away fi-om its fastenings, and hurled into the deep gorge of the rocks which it spans. I saw nothing to hinder if the Atlantic had a mind again to play at bowls with it. The island owes its name to the blanched appearance of its crags, little different in this respect from its fellows. At high tides the westward end is isolated from the rest, making two islands of it in appearance, but inseparable as the Siamese twins. The light-house is much visited in summer, especially by those of a romantic turn, and by those to whom its winding stairs, huge tanks of oil, and powerful Fresnel, possess the charm of novelty. By its side is the section of an earlier building, a reminiscence of the former state of the Isles. For many years the keeper of the light was Thomas B. Laighton, af- terward proprietor of Appledore. On account of some political disappoint- ment, he removed from Portsmouth to the Isles, making, it is said, a vow never again to set foot on the main-land. Fortune followed the would-be recluse against his will. As keeper of a boarding-house on Appledore, he is reported to have expressed little pleasure at the coming of visitors, even while receiving them with due hospitality. He was glad of congenial spirits, but loved not overmuch the stranger within his gates. His sons succeeded to their father at the Appledore. His daughter' has told with charming naivete the story of the light-house, whose lamps she often trimmed and lighted witli her own hands. "I lit the lamps in the light-house tower, For the sun dropped down and the day was dead; They shone like a glorious cluste.'sd flower, Two golden and five red." In 1793 there were only eight light-houses within the jurisdiction of Mas- sachusetts. Of these one was at the entrance of Nantucket, and another of Boston harbor. There were twin lights on the north point of Plymouth harbor, on Thatcher's Island, off Cape Ann, and at the northerly end of Plum Island, at the mouth of the Merrimac. The latter were not erected until 1787. They were of wood, so contrived as to be removed at pleasure, in order to conform to the shifting of the sand-bar on which they stood. The lights on Baker's Island, at the entrance of the port of Salem, were not built until 1798. But neither compass, sextant, fixed and revolving lights, storm signals, careful soundings, buoys, nor beacons, with all the improvements in modern ' Mrs. Celia Laighton Thaxtei-. THE ISLES OF SHOALS. 193 COVEREB WAT AND LIGHT-HOUSE, WHITE ISLAND. ship-building, have yet reduced traveling over the sea to the same certainty as traveling over the land. We commit ourselves to the mercy of Father Neptune just as fearfully as ever, and annually pay a costly tribute of lives for the privilege of traversing his dominions. During the winter of 18 — , so runs the story, the keeper of this light was a young islander, with a single assistant. For nearly a week north-easterly winds had prevailed, bringing in from the sea a cold, impenetrable haze, that enveloped the islands, and rendered it impossible to discern objects within a cable's length of the light-house. At the turn of the tide on the sixth day, the expected storm burst upon them with inconceivable fury. The sea grew blacker beneath the dead white of the falling snow. The waves, urged on by the gale, made a fair breach over the light-house rock, driving the keeper from his little dwelling to the tower for shelter. The violence of the gale increased until midnight, when it began to lull. 194 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. The spirits of the oppressed watchers rose as the storm abated. One made ready a smoking phitter of fisli and potatoes, while tlie other prepared to snatch a few moments' sleep. While thus occupied, a loud knock was heard at the door. It was repeated. The two men stood rooted to the spot. They knew no living thing except themseUes was on the island; they knew noth- ing of moi-tal shape might approach it in such a fearful tempest. At a third knock the assistant, who was preparing their frugal meal, fell upon his knees, making the sign of the cross, and calling upon all the saints in the calendar for protection, like the good Catholic he was. The keeper, who had time to recollect himself, advanced to the door and threw it open. On the outside stood a gigantic negro, of muscular frame, clothed in a few rags, the blood streaming from twenty gashes in his body and limbs. A brig had been cast away on the rocks a few rods distant from the light, and the intrepid black had ventured to attempt to gain the light- house. The keeper ran to the spot. Peering into the darkness, he could discover the position of the vessel only by the flapping of her torn sails in the wind. The roar of the sea drowned every other sound. If the shipwrecked crew had cried for help, they could not have been heard. Availing himself of his knowledge of every inch of the shore, the keeper succeeded in gaining a pro- jecting ledge, from which he attracted the attention of those on board the brig, and after many fruitless efibrts a line was got to land. The wreck, as the keeper could now see, was driven in a little under the shelter of a project- ing point. Moments were precious. He sought in vain for some projection on which he might fasten his rope. He did not hesitate, but wound it about his body, and fixed himself as firmly as he could in a crevice of the rock. Here, with his feet planted on the slippery ledge, where every sea that came in drenched him to the skin, tiie brave fellow stood fast until every man of the crew had been saved. WHITE ISLAND LIGHT. THE ISLES OF SHOALS. 195 There is notliiiig tliat moves the iinai^uiMtioii like :i light-lioiise. John Quincy Adams said wlien he saw one in the evening he was reminded of the light Columbus saw the uiglit he discovered the New World. I have been moved to call. them telegraph posts, standing along the coast, each flashing its spark from cape to headland, the almost commingling rays being golden threads of hapi)y intelligence to all mariners. What a glorious vision it would be to see the kindling of each tower from Florida to Prima Vista, as the broad streets of the city are lighted, lamp by lamp ! Here ended my wanderings among these islands, seated like immortals in the midst of eternity. The strong south-westerly current bore me swiftly from the light-house rock. We hoisted sail, and laid the prow of our little bark for the river's mouth; but I leaned over the taffrail and looked back at the beacon-tower 'til it faded and was lost, "Even at this distance I can see the tides, Upheaving, breait unheard along its base ; A speecldess wrath that rises and subsides In the wiiite lip and tremor of the face. "'Sail on!' it says, 'Sail on, ye stately ships! And with your floating bridge the ocean span ; Be mine to guard this liglit from all eclipse, Be yours to bring man nearer unto man.'" WENTWORTH HOUSE, LITTLE HARBOR. CHAPTER XIIL NEWCASTLE AND NEIGHBORHOOD. "Yes — from the sepulclire we'll gather flowers. Then feast like spirits in their promised bowers, Then plunge and revel in the rolling surf, Then lay our limbs along the tender turf." — Bvron. A NOTHER delightfully rninous old corner is Newcastle, which occupies J\ the island opposite Kittery Point, usually called Great Island. Be- tween Newcastle and Kittery is the main ship-channel, with deep water and plenty of sea-room. On the south of Great Island is another entrance called Little Harbor, with shallow water and sandy bottom; its communication with the main i-iver is now valueless, and little used except by fishing-craft of small tonnage.^ In going from Portsmouth there are three bridges to be crossed to reach the town of Newcastle, situated on the northern shore of the island ; or, if your aim be the southern shore, it is equally a pleasant drive or walk to the ancient seat of the Wentworths, at Little Harbor, from which you may, if a ferry-man be not at hand, hail the first passing boat to take you to the isl- and. I went there by the former route, so as to pass an hour among the tombstones in the old Point of Graves burial-ground, and returned by the latter in order to visit the Wentworth mansion. The three bridges before mentioned connect as many islands with Ports- mouth. They were built, it is said, at the suggestion of President Monroe, when he found Great Island somewhat difficult of access. NEWCASTLE AND NEIGHBORHOOD. 197 There appeared some symptoms of activity in tlie island fishery. As I ])assed down, I noticed two Bankers lying in the diminutive harbor, and an acre or so of ground spread with flakes, on which codiish were being cured. The little cove which makes the harbor of Newcastle has several wharves, some of them in ruins, and all left "high and dry" at low tide. The rot- ting timbers, stick- ing in crevices of the rocks, hung with sea-weed and stud- ded with barnacles, told very plainly that the trade of the island was number- ed among the things of the past. point of graves. Between the upper end of Great Island and the town of Portsmouth is a broad, deep, still basin, called in former times, and yet, as I suspect, by some of the oldsters, the Pool. This was the anchorage of the mast ships, which made annual voyages between England and the Piscataqua, convoyed in war- time by a vessel of force. The arrival, lading, and departure of the mast ships were the three events of the year in this old sea-place. Sometimes as many as seven were loading here at once, even as early as 1665. In the Pool, the Astrea, a twenty-gun ship, was destroyed by fire one cold morning in January, 1744. The Earl of Bellomont, an Irish peer, writes to the Lords of Trade, in 1699, of the Piscataqua: "It is a most noble harbour," says his lordship; "the biggest ships the king hath can lie against the bank at Portsmouth." He then advises the building of war vessels there for the king's service; and mentions that Charles II. had complimented the French king with the draughts of the best ships in the British navy, and had thereby "given vent to that precious secret." In the day when all of old Portsmouth was crowded between what is now Pleasant Street and the river, it is easy to imagine the water-side streets and alloys frequented by sailors in pigtails and petticoats; the mighty ca- 198 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. roiisals and roaring choruses; the dingy, well-smoked dram-shops; the stews and slums of back streets, and the jolly larks and aftVays with the night-watch. Rear-admiral " the brave Benbow, sirs," has landed at these old quays from his barge, followed as closely as a rolling gait would permit by some old sea-dog of a valet, with cutlass stuck in a broad, leathern belt, exactly at the middle of his back. The admiral was doubtless on his way to some convivial ren- counter, where the punch was strong, and where the night not infrequently terminated little to the advantage of the quarter-deck over the forecastle. The ships of that day were wonderfully made. Their bows crouched low in the water, their curiously carved and ornamented sterns rose high above it. The bowsprit was crossed by a heavy spar, on which a square-sail was hoisted. Chain cables had not been invented, and hempen ones, as thick as the mainmast, held the ship at her anchors. Colored battle lanterns were fixed above the taffrail ; Avatches and broadsides were regulated by the hour- glass. The sterns and bulging quarter-galleries of Spanish, French, and Por- tuguese war ships were so incrusted with gilding it seemed a pity to batter them with shot. Think of Nelson knocking the Ilohj Trinity into a cocked hat, or the Ttoelve Apostles into the middle of next week ! There are many old houses on Great Island. The quaintness of one that ^ stands within twen- ? [ ty yards of the river is always i-emarked in sailing by. I could not learn its age, but hazard the conjec- ture it was there be- fore James II. abdi- cated. The visitor, as in duty bound, should go to the chamber of the selectmen, where the town char- ter given by William and Mary, in 1693, is displayed on the — -' wall, engrossed in al- OLD HOUSE, GREAT ISLAND. ^^^^^^ imintelligiblc black-letter,' The records of Newcastle have had a curious history. After a disappearance of nearly fifty years, they were recovered within a year or ' The Act of Corporation, though well preserved, appeared little valued ; it hung by a corner and in a light that was every day dimming the ink with which it had been engrossed. NEWCASTLE AND NEIGHBORHOOD. 199 two in England. The first volume is bound in vellutn, and, though somewhat doff-oared, is perfect. The entries are in a fair louiid-hand, beginning in 1093, when Lieutenant-governor Usher signed the grant for tlie township of New- castle. Among the earliest records, I noticed one of five shillings paid for a pair of stocks ; and of a gallery put up, in 1694, in the meeting-house, for the women to sit in. Any townsman entertaining a stranger above fourteen days, with- out acquainting the selectmen, was to be fined. What would now be thought of domiciliary visits like the following? "One householder or more to walk every day in sermon-time with the constable to every publick-house in y^ town, to suppress ill orders, and, if they think convenient, to private houses also." I found the town quiet enough, but the youngsters noisy and ill-bred. There seemed also to be an unusual number of loiterers about the village stores ; I sometimes passed a row of them, squatted, like greyhounds, on their heels, in the sun. Those I noticed whittled, tossed coppers, or laughed and talked loudly. Many of the men were employed at Kittery Navy Yard. From observation and inquiry I am well assured our Government dock- yards are, as a rule, of little benefit to the neighboring population. The Gov- ernment pays a higher price for less labor than private persons find it for their interest to do. The work is intermittent; and it happens quite too frequently that the dock-yard employe is always expecting to be taken on, and will not go to work outside of the yard ; he is especially unwilling at JK-, %^ wages less than the Government ordi- j|, narily pays, upon which labor in the vicinity of the yard is usually gauged. A charming ramble of an afternoon is to Fort Constitution, built on a pro- truding point of rocks washed by the tide. When I saw it the old fortress was casting its shell, lobster- like, for a stronger. The odd old foot-paths among the ledges zigzag now to tlie right or left, as they are thrust aside by intruding ledges. Much history is contained within the four walls of the work.' Adjoining is a light-house, originally erected in 1771. OLD TOWER, NEWCASTLE. ' The reader will do well to consult Belknap's admirable " History of New Hampshire," vol. ii. ; Adams's "Annals," or Brewster's "Rambles about Portsmouth." Some sort of defense was be- gun here very early. In 160.") the commissioners of Charles II. attempted to fortify, but were met by a prohibition from Massachusetts. In 1700 there existed on Great Island a fort mounting thirty guns, pronounced liy Earl Hellomont incapable of defending the river. Colonel Ronier made the plan of a new work, and recommended a strong tower on the point of Fryer's (Gcrrish's) Island, 200 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. While engaged in sketching the gate -way and portcullis of old Fort Constitution, I was accosted by a person, with a strong German accent, who repeated, word for Avord, as I should judge, a mandate of the War Office against the taking of any of its old ruins by wandering artists. He then walked away, leaving me to finish my sketch without further interrujition. On a rocky eminence overlooking the fortress is a martello tower, built during: the war of 1812, to eruarantee the main work against a landing on the beach at the south side. It has three embrasures, and was begun on a Sunday, while two English frigates were lying off the Isles of Shoals. Sally-port and casemates are choked with debris, the parapet grass-grown, and the whole in picturesque ruin. Many of these towers were erected on the south coast of England during the Napoleonic wars to repel the ex- GATEWAY, OLD FORT CONSTITUTION. ^^^^^^^^ inVasioU. Another pleasant walk is to Little Harbor, taking by the way a look at the old house near Jaffrey's Point, that is verging on two hundred years, yet seems staunch and strong. The owner believes it to be the same in which Governor Cranfield' held colonial courts. This was one of the attractive sites of the island, until Government began the construction of formidable earth-works at a short distance from the farmstead. The Isles of Shoals are plainly distinguished, and with a field-glass the little church on Star Island may be made out in clear weather. I enjoyed a walk on the rampart at evening, when the lights on Whale's Back, Boon Island, White Island, and Squara were seen flashing their take-heed through the darkness. Little Harbor, where there is a summer hotel, was the site of the first set- tlement on the island. At Odiorne's Point, on the opposite shore, was com- menced, in 1623, the settlement of New Hampshire. It is now proposed to commemorate the event itself, and the spot on which the first house was built, by a monument.^ with batteries on Wood and Clark's islands. In December, 1774, John Langdon and John Sul- livan committed open rebellion by leading a party to seize the powder here. The fort was then called William and Mary. Old Fort Constitution has the date of 1808 on the key-stone of the arch of the gate-way. Its walls were carried to a certain height with rough stone topped with brick. It was a parallelogram, and mounted barbette guns only. The present work is of gran- ite, inclosing the old walls. The new earth-works on Jaffrey's Point and Gerrish's Island render it of little importance. ' Governor of New Hampshire fiom 1()82 to 1G8.'>. The house is the residence of Mr. Albee. ^ Odiorne's Point is in Rye, New Hampshire. Tlie settlement began under the auspices of a NEWCASTLE AND NEIGHBORHOOD. 201 Captain John Mason is known as the founder of New Hampshire. His biography is interwoven with the times of the giant Richelieu and tlie pigmy Buc'kingliam. He was treasurer and pay-master of ilie king's armies durino- the war with Spain. He was governor of Portsmouth Castle when Felton struck his knife into the duke's left side; it is said, in Mason's own house. The name of Portsmouth in New Hampshire was given by him to this out- growth of Portsmouth in old Hampshire. At a time when all England was fermenting, it seems passing strange Gorges and Mason should have persisted in their scheme to gain a lodgment in New England. In Sir Walter Scott's " Ivanhoe " the following passage occurs : " The an- cient forest of Sherwood lay between Sheffield and Doncaster. The remains of this extensive wood are still to be seen at the noble seat of Wentworth. * * * Here hunt- ed of yore the fib ulcus Dragon oi Wantley,and heie were fought many of the most des perate battles dui ing the Civil Waife of the Roses; and here also flour- ished in ancient times those bands of gallant outlaws whose deeds have been rendered so popular in English story." Reginald Went- worth, lord of the manor of Went- worth, in Berks, A.D. 1060, is con- sidered the com- SIR THOMAS WENTWOKTH, WENTWORTH HOUSE, LITTLE HARBOR. mon ancestor of the Wentworths of England and America. The unfortunate Earl of Strafford was a Wentworth. On the dissolution of the monasteries. company, in which Gorges and Mason were leading spirirs. Tlieir giant covered tlie territory be- tween the Menimac and Sagadahoc rivers. Under its authority, David Thompson and otiiers set- tled at Little Harbor, and bnilt what was subsequently known as ^Lison's Hall. Disliking his situ- ation, Thompson removed the next spring to the island now bearing his name in Boston Bav. From this nucleus sprung the settlements at Great Island and Tortsmouth. The settlement at Hilton's Point was nearlv coincident. 202 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. Newstead Abbey was conferred on Sir Jolm Byron by Henry VIII. Its site was in tlie midst of the fertile and interesting region once known as Sherwood Forest. Here was passed the early youth of the brilliant and gifted George, Lord Byron, and in the little cliurch of Newstead his remains were laid. The name and title of Baroness Wentworth were in 1856 assumed by Lady Byron, whose grandfather was Sir Edward Noel, Lord Wentworth. Another of the distinguished of this illustrious family was the Marquis of Rockingham, who voted for the re- peal of the Stamp Act, and acted with Chatham against Lord North.' It was at him, while minister, the pasquinade was leveled, "You had better declare, which you may without shocking 'em, The nation's asleep and the minister llock- ing'em." The seat of the Wentworths at Little Harbor is at the mouth of Sagamore Creek, not more than two miles from town. Among a group of aged houses in the older quar- ter of Portsmouth, that of Samuel Wentworth is still pointed out.'' His monument may also be seen in the ancient burial-place of Point of Graves. The family seem to have been statesmen by inheritance. There were three chief-magistrates of New Hamp- shire of the name, viz. : John, the son of Samuel; Benning, the son of John; and John, the nephew of Benning. The exterior of the mansion does not of itself keep touch and time with the preconceived idea of colonial magnificence. Its architectural deformity would have put Ruskin beside himself. A rambling collection of buildings, seemingly the outgroAvth of diiferent periods and conditions, are incorpora- ted into an inharmonious whole. The result is an oddity in wood. Doubt- less the builder was content with it. If so, I have little disposition to be critical. MARQUIS OF ROCKINGHAM. ' Peace with the thirteen colonies was proposed under the administration of Rockingham, about the last official act of his life. His name is often met with in Portsmouth. ^ The house stands at the north end of Manning, formerly Wentworth Street, and is thought from its size to have been a public-house. The same house was also occupied by Lieutenant- Governor John, son of Samuel Wentworth. Samuel was the son of William, the first settler of the name. He had been an innkeeper, and had swung his sign of the "Dolphin " on Great Island. Hon. John Wentworth, of Chicago, is the biographer of his family. NEWCASTLE AND NEIGHBORHOOD. 203 Beyond tliis, the visitor may not rofiipo liis uiiqualifictl approval of the site, which is cliarniing, of tlie surroiintlings — the mansion was embowered in blooming lilacs when I saw it — and of the general air of snug- ness and of comfort, rather than elegance, which seems the pi'oper atmosphere of the Wentworth House. Built in 1750, it rommands a view up and down Little Har- bor, though conceal- ed by an eminence from the road. I had a brief glimpse of it wdiile going on Great Island via the bridges. It is said it originally contained as many as fifty-two rooms, though by the removal of a good- sized tenement to the opposite island the number has been di- minished to forty- live. There is, there- fore, plenty of elbow- room. The cellar was sometimes used as a stable: it was large enough to have ac- commodated a troop, or, at a pinch, a squad- ron. Prepared for an interior as little at- tractive as the outside, the conjecture of the visitor is again at fault, for this queer old bundle of joiners' patchwork contains apartments which indicate that the old beau, Benning \yentvvorth, cared less for the rind than the fruit. IN THE WENTWOKTH HOI SE, LITTLE HAKBOR. 204 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. "Within unwonted splendors met tiie eye, Panels and floors of oak and tapestry ; Carved chimney-pieces where on brazen dogs Keveled and roared the Christmas fires of logs ; Doors opening into darkness unawares, Mysterious passages and flights of stairs ; And on the walls in heavy gilded frames, The ancestral Wentworths with old Scripture names." The council chamber contains a gem of a mantel, enriched witli elaborate carving of busts of Indian princesses, chaplets, and garlands — a year's labor, it is said, of the workman. The wainscot is waist-high, and heavy beams divide the ceiling. As we entered we noticed the rack in which the muskets of the Governor's guard were deposited. But what catches the eye of the visitor soonest and retains it longest, is the portraits on the walls. First is a canvas representing the Earl of Strafford' dictating: to his secretary, in the Tower, on the day be- fore his execution. At his trial, says an eye- witness, "he was always in the same suit of black, as in doole " (mourn- ing). When the lieu- tenant of the Tower of- fered him a coach, lest he should be torn in pieces by the mob in going to execution, he replied, "I die to please the people, and I will die in their own way." Here is a portrait from the brush of Cop- ley, who reveled in rich draperies and in the accessories of his por- traits quite as much as in painting rounded arms, beautiful hands, and shapely figures. This one in pink satin, with over-dress of white lace, short sleeves LADY HANCOCK'S POKTKAIT (BY COPLEl) IN THE WENTWOUrH HOUSE. ' His second wife was Henrietta du Koy, daughter of Frederick Charles du Roy, generalissimo to tlie King of Denmark. NEWCASTLE AND NEIGIIBOUIIOOD. 205 ■with deep ruffles, and coquettish lace cap, is Dorotliy Quincy, the greatest belle and breaker of hearts of her day. It was not, it is said, her fault that she became Mrs. Governor Hancock, instead of Mrs. Aaron Burr. When in later years, as Madam Scott, she retained all the vivacity of eighteen, she was fond of relating how the hand now seen touching rather than supj)orting her cheek, had been kissed by marquises, dukes, and counts, who had experienceil the hospitality of the Hancock mansion ; and how D'Estaing, put to bed after too much wine, had torn her best damask coverlet with the spurs he had for- gotten to remove. Other portraits are — Of Queen Christina of Sweden, who looks down with the same pitiless eyes that exulted in the murder of her equerry, Monaldeschi ; one said to be Secretary Waldron, a right noble countenance and martial figure ; and of Mr. and Mrs. Jacob Sheaffe. I could be loquacious on the subject of these portraits, the fading impres- sions of histories varied or startling, of experiences more curious than profita- ble to narrate. In their presence we take a step backward into the past, that past whose lessons we will not heed. Hawthorne, standing before a wall cov- ered with such old counterfeits, was moved to say : " Nothing gives a strong- er idea of old worm-eaten aristocracy, of a family being crazy with age, and of its being time that it was extinct, than these black, dusty, faded, antique- dressed portraits." The old furniture standing about was richly carved, and covered with faded green damask. In the billiard-room was an ancient spinet, quite as much out of tune as out of date. Doubtless, the flashing of white hands across those same yellow keys has often struck an answering chord in the breasts of colonial youth. Here are more portraits; and a buffet, a side- board, and a sedan-chair. Punch has flowed, and laughter echoed here. The reader knows the pretty story, so gracefully told by Mr. Longfellow, of Martha Hilton, who became the second wife of Governor Benning," and thus Lady Wentworth of the Hall. We can see her as she goes along the street, swinging the pail, a trifle heavy for her, and splashing with the water her naked feet. We hear her ringing laughter, and the saucy answer to ]Mistress Stavers in her furbelows, as that buxom landlady flings at her, in passing, the sharp reproof: "O Martha Hilton! Fie! how dare you go About tlie town half-dressed and looking so?" The poet's tale is at once a history and a picture, full of pretty conceits and picturesque situations. Fancy the battered efligy of the Eail of Halifax on the innkeeper's sign falling at the feet of Mrs. Stavers to declare his pas- sion. ' Bennington, Vermont, is named from Governor Wentworth. 206 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. But Benning Went- ;^b worth, governor though he M'as, was none too good for Martha Hil- ton.' It was the pride of the Hiltons made her say, "I yet sliall ride in my own cliari- ot." The widowed gov- ernor was gouty, pas- sionate, and had im- bibed with his long residence in Spain the hauteur of the Span- iard. He left office in 1766 in disgrace. The last of the co- lonial Wentworths was Sir John, in whose fa- vor his uncle had been allowed to screen him- self by a resignation. There are some odd co- incidences in the fami- ly records of both un- cle and nephew. The former's widow made a second marriage to a governob benning wentwobth. Wentworth ; the latter married his widowed cousin, Frances Wentworth.^ The mansion of Sir John may be seen in Pleasant Street, Portsmouth. He vvas the last royal governor of New Hampshire. John Adams mentions ' Her grandfiitlier, Hon. Richard Hilton, of Newmarket, was grandson of Edward, tlie original settler of Dover, New Hampshire, and had been a justice of the Superior Court of the Province. — • John Wentworth. * Frances Deering Wentworth married Jolin just two weeks after the decease of her first hus- band, Theodore Atkinson, also her cousin, and in the same church from which he had been buried — matter for such condolence and reproof as Talleyrand's celebrated "Ah, madame,"and "Oil, madame." Benning Wentworth's widow married Colonel Michael Wentworth, said to have been a retired British officer. He was a great horseman and a free liver. Once he rode from Boston to Portsmouth between sunrise and sunset. Having run through a handsome estate, he died un- der suspicion of suicide, leaving liis own epitaph, " I have eaten my cake." Colonel Michael was the host, at the Hall, of Washington. In 1817, the house at Little Harbor was purchased by Ciiarles Cashing, whose widow was a daughter of Jacob Sheatte. NEWCASTLE AND NEIGHBORHOOD. 207 that as he was leaving his box at tlie tlieatre one night in Paiis, a gentleman seized him by the hand: "'Governor Wentworth, sir,' said the gentleman. At first I was embarrassed, and knew not how to behave toward him. As my classmate and friend at college, and ever since, I could have pressed him to my bosom with most cordial affection. But we now belonged to two dit- ierent nations, at war with each other, and consequently Avere enemies." The king afterward gave Sir John the government of Nova Scotia. The |)oet Moore mentions the baronet's kind treatment of him in 1805, during his American tour. lie is said to have kept sixteen horses in his stable at Portsmouth, and to have been a fi-ee-liver. A man of unquestioned ability to govern, who went down under the great revolutionary wave of 1115, but rose again to the surtace and struck boldly out. There is now in the possession of James Lenox, of New York, a portrait of the baronet's wife, by Copley, painted in his best manner. The lady was a celebrated beauty. The face has caught an expression, indescribably arch, as if its owner repressed an invincible desire to torment the artist. In it are set a pair of eyes, black and dangerous, with high-arched brows, a tempting yet mock- ing mouth, and nose a little retrousse. Iler natural hair is decorated with pearls ; a string of them encircles her throat. The corsage is very loWjdisjjlaying a pair of white shoulders such as the poet im- agined : " She has a bosom as white as snow, ../ttindlW .il\\\\W^til///iHHHH^^^i^^^- Take care ! She knows how much it is best to show, Beware! beware!" In 1777 Baron Steuben arrived in Portsmouth, in the Flamand. Franklin had snubbed him, St. Germain urged him, but Beaumarchais offered him a thousand louis-d'or. Valley Forge his name was the watch- Avord in all the camps. ' "Paul Jones shall equip his Bonne Homme Richard; weapons, military stores can be smug- gled over (if tlie English do not seize them); wherein, once more Beaumarchais, dimly as the Giant Smuggler, becomes visible — filling his own lank pocket withal." — Caklylk, "French Revolu- tion, " vol. i., p. 43. iSAKON STEl'UEN. On the day the baron joined the army at WITCH HILL, SALKiM. CHAPTER XIV. SALEM VILLAGE, AXD '92. Banquo. "Were such things here as we do speak about? Or have we eaten of the insane root, That takes the reason prisoner?" — Macbeth. SALEM VILLAGE has a sorrowful celebrity. It would seem as if an ad- verse spell still hung over it, for in the changes brouglit by time to its neighbors it has no part, remaining, as it is likely to remain, Salem Village — that is to say, distinctively antiquated, sombre, and lifeless. A collection of houses scattered along the old high-road from Salem to Andover, decent-looking, brown-roofed, though humble dwellings, a somewhat pretending village church, and pleasant, home-like, parsonage; old trees, part- ly verdant, partly withered, stretching naked boughs above the gables of houses even older than themselves, embody something of the impressions of oft-repeated walks in what is known as the " Witch Neighborhood." The village contains one central point of paramount interest. It is an in- closed space of grass ground, a short distance from the principal and only street, reached by a well-trodden by-path. Within this now naked field once stood a house, with a garden and orchard surrounding. Of the house nothing remains except a slight depression in the soil ; of the orchard and garden there is no trace ; yet hard by I chanced on a bank of aromatic thyme once held of singular potency in witchcraft — as in the "Faerie Queen," the tree laments to the knight: "I clianced to see her in her proper hue, Bathing lierself in origan and thyme." SALEM VILLAGE, AND '92. 209 In this quiet, out-of-the-way little nook, Salem witchcraft had its begin- ning. The sunken cavity is what remains of the Ministry House, so called, pulled down in 1785 (not a day too soon); the den of error in which the plague-spot first appeared. No one would have thought, standing here, that he surveyed the focus of malevolence so deadly as the wretched delirium of '92. The well-informed reader is everywhere familiar with the origin and de- velopment of Salem witchcraft.* It has employed the best pens as it has puz- zled the best brains among us; until to-day the whole affair remains envel- oped in a mystery which the theories of nearly two hundred years have failed wholly to penetrate. The writer has had frequent occasion to know how wide-spread is the be- lief that witchcraft began in New England, and particularly in Salem, This is to be classed among popular errors upon which repeated denials have lit- tle effect. Nevertheless, witchcraft did not originate in New England ; no, nor in old England either, for that matter. The belief in it was earlier tlian the 3Iayfloioer, older than the Norman Conquest, and antedated the Roman Empire. The first written account of it is contained in Scripture.^ Saul incui-red the anger of God by consulting the Witch of Endor. Joan of Arc was burned as a witch in 1431. About fifty years later the Church of Rome fulminated a bull against witchcraft. The number of suspected persons already burned at the stake or subjected to the most cruel torments is estimated at many thousands. In taking leave of the Dark Ages we do not take our leave of witchcraft. More than a hundred thousand victims had perished in Germany and France alone before the Mayflower sailed from Delft. The Pilgrims, I engage, be- lieved in it to a man. Old England ! Why, the statute against witchcraft was not repealed un- til 1736, in the second George's time, though it had lain dormant some years. The last recorded execution in the British Islands occurred in Scotland, as late as 1722. The sixth chapter of Lord Coke's "Third Institutes" is de- voted to a panegyric on the statutes for punishing " conjuration, sorcery, witchcraft, or enchantment." The laws of England were the fundamental law of New England ; witchcraft was in the list of recognized crimes through- out Christendom. France, under Louis le Grand, whose style history will change, notwith- standing his famous "Z' etat c'est moi,''^ to Louis the Little, was immeshed in the net of superstition. The highest personages of the court resorted to the astrologers for horoscopes, charms, or philters. We might see later the magic ' Mather and Hutchinson deal largely with it. Upham and Drake have compiled, arranged, and analyzed it. ^ Exod. xxii., 18 (1491 u.c); "Thou shalt not suffer a witch to live." 14 210 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. and sorcery of the sixteenth century and of the seventeenth transformed into studies in chemistry under the Regency, and become experiments in magnet- ism in the eighteenth century. The settlers in New England, who brought all their Old- World supersti- tions with tliem, were not surprised to find the Indians fully impregnated with a belief in magic equal to their own. The wonderful cures of the Indian magicians or medicine-men were thoroughly believed in, and are vouched for by white evidence. One of their favorite methods of revenging private in- jury was by enchanting a hair, which entered the bodies of their enemies and killed them while sleeping. It is noted that Tituba, an Indian, had much to do with the outbreak in Salem village. Sir William Phips, an illiterate but not incapable man, had been appointed Governor of Massachusetts Bay, under the new charter of William and Mary. The charter conferred the power of civil government, and separated the legis- lative from the judicial authority. Sir William constituted a commission of seven to try the witchcraft cases at Salem. As he had no power to create such a court under the charter, one of the saddest reflections that arise from these bloody proceedings is that twenty persons suffered death for an imagi- nary crime, inflicted by an illegal tribunal. The province law of 1692 de- creed death for " enchantment, sorcery, charm, or conjuration, or invocation, or to feed any wicked spirit." The first authenticated case of witchcraft in New England, and also the first execution, took place at Boston, as early as 1648. The culprit, Margaret Jones, of Charlestown, was suspected of having and using the "malignant touch." She professed some knowledge of medicine, and probably availed herself of the awe in which she was held by the superstitious to ply her trade. Many other cases are mentioned in the other colonies, Connecticut bearing her full share, before the climax of 1692 is reached. Then, as afterward, the accusations fell chiefly upon women ; the old, friendless, or half-witted bear- ing the burden of every accident in their neighborhood. An English writer gravely says in 1690 : " Several old women suspected for witches in and about Lancashire have been often noted to have beards of con- siderable growth, tho' that's no general rule, some of the reverend and virtu- ous being often liable to the same." Everywhere witchcraft was received as a stubborn fact. The criminal codes of nearly if not quite all the colonies recognized it. In Pennsylvania, if tradition may be believed, the fact was met by no less stubborn common sense. It is said, when Philadelphia was three years old, a woman was brought before Governor Penn, charged with witchcraft and riding through the air on a broomstick. Although the woman confessed her guilt, she was dismissed by the Quaker magistrate with the as- surance that, as there was no law against it, she might ride a broomstick as often as she pleased. Could a full and candid confession be obtained of the present generation SALEM VILLAGE, AND '92. 213 there would appear more superstition than we wot of, such as would show \is legitimate descendants of credulous colonists. It is not long since a staid old town in Massachusetts was in consternation at tlie report of a ghost in a school-room. Signs and portents have been handed down and are religiously believed in by other than the ignorant and credulous, as has been already stated in a former chapter. A very small jjroportion of the skeptical could be induced to enter a church-yard at night. There is some subtle principle of our nature that gives ready adhesion to the mystical or the marvelous ; and it is believed they were not dif- J(^3^^^iM3^^^i^^^^^^^^^^'''LKSE b UOU»E. 214 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. The most plausible, and therefore the commonly received opinion is, that these girls, having at first practiced some of the well-known methods of per- forming magic, were led into a series of false accusations which, from being conceived in a spirit of mischief, grew into crimes of the first magnitude as they found themselves carried away by a frenzy they had not moral courage to stay. Another presumption supposes the girls believers in their own pow- ers. This view is sustained by the universal belief in witchcraft, the ready adhesion given to their charges, the support they received from the judges, and the terrible power with which they found themselves possessed. Anoth- er solution is found in the occult influences of second-sight so widely credited in Scotland in years by-gone, the psychology and clairvoyance of the present day. Dr. Samuel Johnson said he would rather believe in second-sight than in the poetry of Ossian. If the soundest thinkers of the nineteenth century are stag- gered to account for the phenomena of spirit-rappings, it is wise to defer a hasty condem- nation of the "pos- sessed daraosels" of Salem village. Instead of ply- ing its needles, the circle was engaged in attempts to discover the future. Rev. John Hale, in his "Modest Inquiry into the Nature of Witchcraft," has this to say: "I fear some young persons, through a vain curiosity to know their fu- ture condition, have tampered with devil's tools, so far that thereby one door was opened to Satan to play those pranks — Anno 1692. I knew one of the Afflicted persons, who (as I was credibly informed), did try wdth an egg and a glass to find her future husband's calling ; till there came up a coffin, that is, a spectre in likeness of a coffin. And she was afterward followed with diabolical molestation to her death ; and so dyed a single person. A just warning to others, to take heed of handling the devil's weapons lest they get a wound thereby." This John Hale, teacher of the people, was at first a zealous believer. Perhaps the denunciation of his own wife had something to do with his backsliding into common sense. The accusing giils were believed infallible witch-finders. Their services were consequently in demand as their fame spread abroad. Some of them were taken to Andover, leaving distrust, dismay, and death in the quiet old PKOCTER HOUSE. SALEM VILLAGE, AND '92. 215 West Parish. "In a short time," says the annalist, "it was commonly re- ported forty men of Andover could raise the devil as well as any astroloo-er." A "Boston Man" having taken his sick child to Salem in order to consult the afflicted ones, obtained the names of two of his own towns-people as the authors of its distemper; but the Boston justices refused warrants to appre- hend them, and Increase Mather asked the father if there was not a God in Boston that he must go to the devil in Salem. These two persons are said to have been Mrs. Thatcher, mother-in-law of Curwin, one of the judges," and the wife of Sir William Phips. As soon as the prosecutions stopped, it was remarked that the apparitions ceased. Once or twice the accuser recoiled before a sharp and swift reproof, as at Lieutenant IngersoU's, when one of them cried out, "There's Goody Procter!" Raymond and Goody Ingersoll told her flatly she lied; there was nothing. The girl was cowed, and " said she did it for sport." Even the witchcraft horrors have a humorous side — grimly humorous, it is true, like the jokes cracked in a dissecting-room. The thought of pots and kettles jumping on the crane, of anchors leaping overboard of themselves, and of hay-cocks found hanging to trees is rather mirth-provoking. Mirrors were daily consulted by maids and widows looking for a husband. A mat- ter of life and death could not prevent George Jacobs, the old grandfather, from laughing heartily at the spasmodic antics of Abigail Williams. It seems a pity that New England in her greatest need should have found no champion, like St. Dunstan, to argue with and finally compel the devil to own himself confuted, as, according to vulgar belief, he did, by taking the fiend by the nose with a pair of red-hot tongs; or as Ignatius Loyola, who, when disturbed at his devotions by the devil, seized his cudgel and drubbed him away.* Montmorency, a peer and marshal of France, son of the famous Bouteville, whom Richelieu had caused to be decapitated for fighting a duel at midday in the Place Royal, was weak enough to visit La Voisin, the re- nowned conjuror and fabricator of poisons in the reign of Louis XIV. La Voisin had promised to show him the devil, and the duke was curious. When the marechal whipped out his rapier and thrust vigorously at the speo- tre, it fell on its knees, and begged its life. The devil proved to be a con- federate of La Voisin. Archibald, duke of Argyle, was haunted by blue phantoms — the origin of our epithet for melancholy, " blue devils." In the village tavern there was a battle with spectres that Abigail Wil- liams and Mary Walcut declared Avere present. Benjamin Hutchinson and Eleazer Williams pulled out their swords and cut and stabbed the air until, as the two girls averred, the floor was deep in ghostly blood ! A ride through the woods then was little coveted by the stoutest hearts. A spark of fear is soon blown into uncontrollable panic. Bushes grew spec- ' Account of Thomas Brattle. ' See his life, page 80. 216 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. tres and trees outstretched goblin arras. Elizabeth Hubbard was riding home from meeting on the crupper, behind old Clement Coldum, The rus- tling leaves were witches' whisperings, the white birches seemed ghosts in their winding - sheets. The woman, faint - hearted and overmastered by a nameless dread, cried out to the goodman to ride for life — the woods were full of devils. Though he could see none, the valiant rider spurred his horse like mad, and rode as Tam O'Shanter rode his fearful race when pursued by the witches of Kirk Alloway. The trysting-place of the witches was in Parris's pasture. It was here Abigail Hobbs, who had sold herself to the " Old Boy," attending, saw the sac- rament of the " red bread and the red wine " administered to the devil's elect. Poor George Burroughs, whom we met for a moment in our walk through Wells, was denounced for summoning with a trumpet the attending witches. Obedient to the sound, from far and near, the withered beldams, toothless hags in short petticoats, white linen hoods, and conical high crowned hats, come flocking on flying broomsticks. Satan is there in person, not playing the bagpipe, as in Tam O'Shanter's fearful conclave, but with the convention- al book written in letters of blood. Certes, these were but rude ghosts. Nowadays the devil is raised as easily, but conducts himself with greater j^ropriety, as becomes the devil of the nineteenth century. The damp grass of the church-yard and the witches' den are bugbears no longer. We sit in a comfortable apartment around a mahogany table. Our ghost no more appears in mouldy shroud, but, like a well-bred spectre, knocks for admittance. Soon his card will be handed in on a salver, and we may perhaps in time expect daily weather reports from the nether world. Before leaving the village, I turned into one of those old abandoned roads in which I like so well to walk. Left on one side by a shorter cut, saving some rods to this hurrying age, the deserted by-way conducts you into soli- tudes proper for communion with the past. Grass has sprung up so thickly as almost to conceal traces of the once well-worn ruts, now only two indis- tinct lines of lighter green. Young pines, a foot high, are rooted in the cart- way ; stone walls, moss-grown and tumbling down. Here and there are the ghastly remains of some old orchard, the ground strewed with withered branches. A half obliterated cellar denotes a former habitation ; even the land betrays evidences of having been turned by the plows of two centuries ago. Who have passed this way ? Perhaps the laying-out of this very road begot disputes transmitted from father to son. A mile beyond the Witch Neighborhood the Andover road crosses the Newburyport turnpike. At the junction of the two roads stands the old farm-house in which Israel Putnam, the "Old Put" of the Revolutionary army, was born. The house, or rather houses, for two structures compose it, is still occu- SALEM VILLAGE, AND '92. 217 pied by Putnams. The newer building, already old by comparison with some of its neighbors, was built in 1744; the original in 1G50, or thereabouts, ac- cordino- to family tradition. One object, to which the attention of every vis- itor is directed, is the old pollard of enormous girth standing near the house. House and tree seem types of the sturdy, indomitable old man, who at nearly three-score was full of the rage of battle. By the courtesy of the family, ever ready to indulge a proper curiosity, I looked over the old house from garret to cellar. The little room in which the general Avas born remains just as when its rough-hewn posts and thick beams were revealed to his astonished gaze. There are few relics of the gen- eral remaining. BIKTUPLACE OF PUTNAM. While in the Wadsworth Museum at Hartford, I lately saw the damaged sign displayed by Putnam when he kept an inn at Brooklyn, Connecticut, about 1 768. Another famous soldier, Murat, was the son of an aubergiste, and Napoleon was not too willing on this account to give him the hand of his sister. The Putnams settled early in Salem. John, the first emigrant, came from Buckinghamshire, in 1634, with three sons, Thomas, Nathaniel, and John. Some of the name exercised a fixtal influence during the reign of witchcraft. Israel was already an old man when he left his plow in the furrow to galloj) to Cambridge, having been born in 1718. At twenty-one he removed to 218 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. PUTNAM IN BKITISH UNIFORM. Pomfret, Connecticut. Putnam was prompt, resolute, and inca- pable of fear — full of fight, and always ready. Washington, who did not judge badly, thought him the only fit man to make an assault on Boston. Though un- educated, Putnam wrote pith- ily, as to Governor Tryon : " Sir, — Nathan Palmer, a lieu- tenant in your king's service, was taken in my camp as a spy ; he was condemned as a spy; and he shall be hanged as a spy. " P. S. — Afternoon. He is hanged." Danvers, in whose territory we have been rambling, is an aggregate of several widely scattered villages taken from Salem in the last century. Some of its villages have grown into good-sized, prosperous towns, and one has taken the name of her eminent banker-ijhilan- thropist, George Peabody. When at Salem, the visitor may easily reach Peabody, Danvers, and the Witch Neighborhood by rail, having in the latter instance a walk of a mile before him on leaving the little station near the Putnam House. In a circuit of several miles, embracing what is to be seen of interest on this side, it is, perhaps, better to leave Salem by the old Bos- ton road and re- turn to it by the Andover high- '" way. Following this route, we successively pass by Governor En- dicott's farm, on -^g^ which is still seen the aged pear- ENDICOTT PEAK-TKEE. SALEM VILLAGE, AND '92. 219 tree, sole velic of the ancient orchard," the house which became the head- quarters in 1774 of General Gage, and the Witch Neighborhood, But before hurrying away from Peabody, it Avill be well to read the inscription on the monument which one sees in the main street,* examine the memorials of royal munificence in the library of the Institute,' and, if the stranger be of my mind, to halt for a moment before the humble dwelling in which Bowditch was born. As there is no place in New England which so highly prizes its antique memorials and traditions as Salem, the first person you meet will be able to direct you to the one or relate to you the other. ' Endicott had a grant of three hundred acres on the tongue of land between Cow-house and Duck rivers. The site does justice to his discernment. * Raised in 1837 to the memory of soldiers of Danvers killed in the battle of Lexington. ' Tlie Queen's portrait by Tilt, the gold box and medal presented by the city of London and by Congress to Mr. Peabody. Gcn^WQLFE^^^ PUTNAM'S TAVERN SIGX. !__ "^^s^ *iiri-:,"='"®^-I — , WASHINGTON STREET, SALEM. CHAPTER Xy. A WALK TO WITCH HII,L. "Do not the hist'ries of all ages Relate miraculous presages, Of strange turns in the world's affairs, Foreseen by astrologers, soothsayers, Clialdeans, learned genethliacs, And some that have writ almanacs?" Hudibras. TN 1692 Salem may have contained four hundred houses. A few specimens J- of this time now remain in odd corners — Rip Van Winkles or Wander- ing Jews of old houses, that have outlived their day of usefulness, and would now be at rest. Objects of scorn to the present generation, they have silent- ly endured the contemptuous flings of the passer-by, as well, perchance, as the frowns and haughty stare of rows of plate-glass windows along the street. As well put new wine in old bottles, as an old house in a new dress ; it is always an old house, despite the thin veneer of miscalled improvements. The architect can do nothing with it to the purpose ; the carpenter can make nothing of it. There they are, with occupants equally old-fashioned — of, yet not belonging to the present. Some have stood so long in particular neigh- A WALK TO WITCH HILL. 221 BIRTHPLACE OF HAWTHOKNE. borhoods, have outlived so many modern struc- tures, as to be- come points of direction, like London Stone or Cbaring-cross. The stranger's puzzled question- ing is often met with," You know that old house in such a street ?" And so the old house helps us to find our way not alone to the past, but in the present. Undoubted among such specimens as will be met with in the neighborhood of the wharves, or between Essex Street and the water-side, is the old gam- brel-roofed, portly-chimneyed house in which our "Wizard of the North" first drew breath. It stands in Union Street, at the left as you pass down. Many pilgrims loiter and ponder there over these words : " Salem, October 4th, Union Street [Family Mansion]. "Here I sit in my old accustomed chamber, where I used to sit in days gone by. Here I have written many tales — many that have been burned to ashes, many that doubtless deserved the same fate. This claims to be called a haunted chamber, for thousands upon thousands of visions have appeared to me in it ; and some few of them have become visible to the world. If ever I should have a biographer, he ought to make great mention of this chamber in my memoirs, be- cause so much of my lonely youth was wasted here, and here my mind and charac- ter were formed ; and here I have been glad and suATTucK uousE. hopcful, aud hcro 222 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. ROOM IN WHICH HAWTHORNE WAS BORN. I have been de- s}3ondent. And here I sat a long, long time, wait- ing patiently for the world to know me, and some- times wondering why it did not know me soon- er, or whether it would ever know me at all — at least, till I were in my grave." It is not my purpose to attempt a description of Salem, or of what is to be seen there. Her merchants are princes. No doubt they were in Josselyn's mind when he said some of the New Englanders were "damnable rich." French writers of that day speak of her " bourgeois entihrement richest Those substantial mansions of red brick, tree -shaded and ivy-trellised, represent what Carlyle named the " noblesse of commerce," with money in its pocket. Writing in 1685 upon the English invasions of Acadia, Sieur Bergier thus characterizes Salem and Boston : " The English who inhabit these two straggling boroughs (bonrgades) are for the greater part fugitives out of England, guilty of the death of the late king (Charles Stuart), and accused of conspiring against the reigning sover- eign. The rest are corsairs and sea-robbers, who have united themselves with the former in a sort of independent republic." This is rather earlier than the date usually fixed for the planting of democracy in America, but per- haps none too early. Endicott had then cut the cross from the standard of England with his poniard ; and Charles II. had been humbled in the persons of iiis commissioners. Let us walk on through Essex Street, unheeding the throng, unmindful of the statelier buildings, until we approach an ancient landmark at the corner of North Street. Its claims on our attention are twofold. It is said to have been the dwelling of Roger Williams, for whom Southey, when reminded that Wales had been more famous for mutton than great men, avowed he had a sincere respect, yet it is even more celebrated as the scene of examina- tions during the Rei^n of Terror in 1692.' ' Considerable changes were necessary so long ago as lG74-'75, when it became the property of Jonathan Corwin, of witchcraft notoriety. In 1745, and again about 1772, it underwent other repairs, leaving it as now seen. A WALK TO WITCH HILL. 223 In appearance the original house might have been transplanted out of old London. Its peaked gables, with pine-apples carved in Avood surmountin*', its latticed windows, and colossal chimney, put it unmistakably in the a^e of ruffs, Spanish cloaks, and long rapiers. It has long been divested of its an- tique English character, now appearing no more than a reminiscence of its former self. However, from a recessed area at the back its narrow casements and excrescent stairways are yet to be seen. A massive frame, filled between with brick, plastered with clay, with the help of its tower-like chimney, has stood immovable against the assaults of time. Such houses, and their num- f^^sr-fe ^^ THE OLD WITCH HOUSE. ber is not large, represent the original forest that stood on the site of ancient Salem. Jonathan Corwin, or Curwin, made a councilor under the new charter granted by King William, was one of the judges before wliom the preliminary examinations were held, both here and at the Village. Governor Corwin, of Ohio, is accounted a descendant, as Avas the author of "The Scarlet L^ter" of another witch-judge, John Hathorne. The reader may imagine the nov- elist on his knees before the grave-stone of his ancestor, striving to scrape the moss from its half- obliterated characters.' Other examinations took place in Thomas Beadle's tavern. * A scene from life in the old Copp's Hill burial-ground at Boston. 224 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. •^^•fl^ \jj'Mta^'^ Cp>vvj4^£jW 0^ i^cuV'^MM^ /a^^ ^v/^ /^ St^i ^n*<^ t».1«C«v^ ^£U!^04A ^UJL f1^!^*^A^ Iq 4 FRAGMENT OF EXAMINATION OF REBECCA NURSE, In Handwriting of Eev. Samuel Parris.i Knowing the world believed in witchcraft, our horror at the atrocities of '92 is moderated by the probability that nothing less than the shedding of in- nocent blood could have annihilated the delusion. The king believed in it, * In the library of Harvard College is a book having the name of Parris on the fly-leaf. A WALK TO WITCH HILL. 225 THOMAS beadle's TAVEKN, 1692. the governor and judges believed in it, and the most sensible and learned gave am- l)le credence to it. Queen Anne wrote a letter to Phips that sho\vs she admitted it as a thing un- questioned/ The clergy, with sin gular unanimity, recognized it. The revulsion that followed equaled the precipitation that had marked the proceedings. One of the judges made public confession of his error." Offi- cers of the court were persecuted until the day of their death. There is one hard, inflexible character, that was never known to have re- lented. William Stoughton, lieutenant-governor, presided at these trials. It is related that once, on hearing of a reprieve granted some of the condemned, he left the bench, exclaiming, " We were in a way to have cleared the land of these. Who is it obstructs the course of justice I know not. The Lord be merciful to the country." Tliis pudding-faced, sanctimonious, yet merciless judge had listened to the heart-broken appeals of the victims, raising their manacled hands to heaven for that justice denied them upon earth. "I have got nobody to look to but God." "There is another judgment, dear child." "The Lord will not sutler it." Others as passionately reproached their accusers, but all were confound- ed, because all were believers in the fact of witchcraft.^ Whether Witch Hill be the first or last place visited, it is there Salem Avitchcraft culminates. There is seen, in approaching by the railway from Boston, a bleak and rocky eminence bestrown with a little soil. Houses of the poorer sort straggle up its eastern acclivity, while the south and west faces remain as formed by nature, abrupt and ])recipitous. The hill is one of a range stretching away northward in a broken line toward the Merrimac. On the summit is a tolerably level area of several acres. Not a tree was growing on it when I was there. The bleak winds sweep over it without hinderance. ' She approved Governor Phips's conduct, but advised the utmost moderation and circumspec- tion in all proceedings for witchcraft. — " Manuscript Files." * Samuel Sewall, afterward chief-justice of the Supreme Court of the province. ' Some of the pins said to have been thrust by witches into the bodies of their victims are still preserved in Salem. 15 22G THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. On the 19th of July, 1692, an unusual stir might have been observed in Salem. We may suppose the town excited beyond any thing that had been known in its history. The condemned witches, Sarah Good, Sarah Wildes, Elizabeth Howe, Susannah Martin, and Rebecca Nurse, are to be hanged on Gallows Hill. The narrow lane in which the common jail is situated is thronged witli knots of men and women, wearing gloomy, awe-struck faces, conversing in under-tones. Before the jail door are musketeers of the train-band, armed and watchful. The crowd gives way on the approach of a cart that stops in front of the prison door, which is now wide opened. On one side stands the jailer, with ponderous keys hanging at his girdle ; on the other is the sheriff, grasping his staff of office. The guard clears a passage, and then the sheriff's voice is heard calling upon the condemned to come forth. There are five of them, all women. They look pale, haggard, despairing. At sight of them a murmur ripples through the crowd, succeeded by solemn stillness. As they mount the cart with weak and tottering steps — for some are old and feeble and gray-haired — audible sobs are heard among the by- standers. Men's lips are compressed and teeth clenched as they look on with white faces. All is ready. The guard surrounds the cart, as if a rescue w^ere feai'ed. It takes a score of strong men, armed to the teeth, to conduct five lielpless women to death ! I suppose there were outcries, hootings, and imprecations, as is the rabble's wont. If so, I believe they Avere borne with the resignation and heroism that make woman the superior of man in supreme moments. At last the caval- cade is grouped around the place of execution. The gallows and the fatal ladder are there, grotesque yet horrible. To each of those five women they meant martyrdom, and nothing less. The provost-marshal commands silence while he reads the warrant. Tliis formality ended, he replaces it in his belt. Expectation is intense as the con- demned are seen to take leave of each other, like people who have done Avith this world. Then a shiver, like an electric spark, runs through the multi- tude as the hangman seizes them, pinions and blindfolds them, and, in the name of King William and Queen Mary, hangs them by the neck until dead. Being leagued with Satan, they were denied the consolations of religion vouchsafed to pirates, murderers, and like malefactors. Poor old Rebecca Nurse had been led, heavily ironed, up the broad aisle of Salem Church to be thrust out of its communion. At the scaffold Rev. Mr. Noyes, of Salem, insulted the last moments of Sarah Good. "You are a witch, and you know it," said this servant of Christ. She turned upon him fiercely, "You lie, and if you take away my life God will give you blood to drink.'" Tliat few of ' This incident appears in Hawthorne's "Seven Gables." Tlie tradition is that Noyes was clioked with blood — dying by a hemorrhage. A WALK TO WITCH HILL. 227 INTERIOK 01 llK&r CHUKCH.' the martyrs chose to buy their lives with a lie has ennobled their memories for all time. It is written : " If I would but go to hell for an eternal moment or so, I might be knighted." Other executions took place in August and September, swelling the num- ber of victims hanged to nineteen. Giles Corey was, by the old English law, pressed to death for standing mute when told to plead. John Adams mentions a visit to this hill in 17G6, then called Witchcraft Hill. Somebody, he says, within a few years had planted a number of locust- trees over the graves. In 1793 Dr. Morse notes that the graves might still be traced. I felt no regret at their total disappearance. Would that the bloody chapter might as easily disappear from history ! ' The frame of the old First Church of Salem has been preserved. It is now standing in the rear of Plummer Hall, a depository of olden relics. ireson's house, oakum bay, mabblehead. CHAPTER XVI. MARBLEHEAD. ^''Launcelot. Turn up on your right hand at the next turning, but at the next turning of all on your left ; marry, at the very next turning, turn of no hand, but turn down indirectly to the Jew's house." — Merchant of Venice. 1% /TARBLEHEAD is a backbone of granite, a vertebra of syenite and por- ■^^ phyry thrust out into Massachusetts Bay in the direction of Cape Ann, and hedged about with rocky islets. It is somewhat sheltered from the M'eight of north-east storms by the sweep of the cape, which launches itself right out to sea, and gallantly receives the first buffetings of the Atlantic. The promontory of Marbleliead may once have been a prolongation of Cape Ann, the whole coast hereabouts looking as if the ocean had licked out the softer parts, leaving nothing that was digestible behind. This rock, on which a settlement was begun two hundred and forty odd years ago, performs its part by making Salem Harbor on one hand, and another for its own shipping on the east, where an appendage known as Marblehead Neck' is joined to it by a ligature of sand and shingle. The port is open to the north-east, and vessels are sometimes blown from their anchorage upon the sand-banks at Captain Goelet calls it an island. GREAT HEAD. MARBLEHEAD. 229 the head of the harbor, though the water is gen- g erally deep and the sliores ^ bold. At the entrance a light-house is built on ^ the extreme point of the IJ Neck; and on a tongue J of land of the opposite ^ shore is Fort Sewall— a beckoning linger and a clenched fist. The harbor, as the "Gazetteer" would say, has a general direction from north-east to south- Avest. It is a mile and a half long by half a mile wide, with genei'al- ly good holding ground, though in places the bot- tom is rocky. La Touche Treville lost the Ilermi- onp^s anchor here in 1 780, when he brought over j M. De Lafayette, sent by the king to announce the speedy arrival of Ko- chambeau's ai-my.' Prob- ably the good news was first proclaimed in the narrow streets of Marble- _ head, though it has hith- erto escaped a spirited lyric from some disciple of Mr. Browninrr. The geologist will find Marble- head and the adjacent islands an interesting ground, with some tolerably hard nuts foi- his hammer. The westerly shore of the harbor is and hav indented with little coves niched in the rock, ing each a number, though the Marbleheaders have other names' ' Tieville was the man thought most worthy by Napoleon to lead liis fleet in the long-meditated descent on End.-ind. 230 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. for them. One or two wharves are fitted in these coves, but I did not see a vessel unlading or a bale of merchandise there. The flow of the tide as it sucked around the wooden piles was the only evidence of life about them. The varying formations of these shores go very far to redeem the haggard landscape. Even the coves differ in the materials with which their walls are built, feldspar, porphyry, and jasper variegating their rugged features with pleasing effect. The floor of one of these coves is littered with fractured rock of a reddish brown, from which it is locally known as Red Stone Cove. Cap- tain Smith says this coast resembled Devonshire with its "tinctured veines of divers colors." The Rev. Mr. Higginson, of Salem, in 1629, speaks of the stone found here as " marble stone, that we have great rocks of it, and a har- bor hard by. Our plantation is from thence called Mar- ble Harbor." His marble was per- haps the porphy- ritic rock which it resembles when wetted by sea moisture. The beach is the mall of Mar- blehead. It opens upon Nahant Bay, and is much ex- posed to the force of south-east gales. Over this beach a causeway is built, which from time to time has re- quired extensive repairs. Under the province, and as late even as 1812, the favorite method of raising moneys for such purposes was by lottery, duly authorized. In this way a work of })ublic necessity was rele- gated to the public cupidity. A run over the Neck revealed many points of interest. There are rock "the churn. M^RBLEHEAD. 231 cavities of glassy smoothness, worn by the action of pebbles, chasms that le- ceive the coming wave and derisively toss it high in air; and there are pre- cipitons cliffs which the old stone-cutter and lapidary can never blunt, thoui^li he may fret and fume forever at their base. Looking off to sea, the eye is everywhere intercepted by islands or sunken ledges belted with surf Thev have such names as Satan, Roaring Bull, Great and Little Misery, Great and Little Haste, Cut-throat Ledge, the Brimbles, Cat Island, and the like. Each would have a story, if it were challenged, how it came by its name. The number of these islands is something surprising. In fact they appear like a system, connecting the craggy promontory of Marblehead with the cape side. At some time the sea must have burst through this rocky barrier, carrying all before its resistless onset. The channels are intricate among these islands, and must be hit with the nicest precision, or a strong vessel would go to pieces at the first blow on the sharp rocks. The Neck is the peculiar domain of a transient population of care-worn fugitives from the city. The red-roofed cottages were picturesque objects among the rocks, but bore marks of the disorder in which the winter had left them. They seemed shivering up there on the ledges, though it was the sev- enth day of May, for there had been a light fall of snow, followed by a search- ing north-west wind. Not even a curl of smoke issued from the chimneys to take off tlie prevailing chilliness. Down at the harbor side there was an old farmstead with some noble trees I liked bettei*. On the beach I had trod in Hawthorne's "Footprints." I might liere rekindle Longfellow's "Fire of Drift-wood :" "We sat within the farm-house old, Whose windows, looking o'er the bay, Gave to the sea-breeze, damp and cold. An easy entrance night and day. "Not fiir away we saw the port, The strange old-fashioned silent town. The light-house, the dismantled fort. The wooden houses quaint and brown." The light-keeper, whom I found at home, indulged me in a few moments' chat. He could not account, he said, for the extraordinary i)redilection of llie Light-house Board for Avhitewash. Dwelling, covered way, and tower were each and all besmeared ; and the keeper seemed not overconfident that he might not soon receive an order to put on a coat of it liimself He did not object to the summer, but in winter his berth was not so pleasant. I already felt convinced of this. To a cpiestion he replied that Government estimated his services at five hundred dollars per annum; and he pointedly asked me how he was to support a faniily.on the stipend ? Yet he must keep liis ligiit trimmed and burning ; for if that goes out, so does he. All tlie light-houses are supplied with lard-oil, which burns without in- 232 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. crusting the wick of tlie lamp ; Liit the keeper objected that it was always chilled in cold weather, and that he usually had to take it into the dwelling and heat it on the stove before it could be used. A good deal of moisture collects on the plate-glass windows of the lantern Avhen the wind is offshore, but if it be off the land the glass is dry. In very cold weather, when it be- comes coated with frost, the light is visible but a short distance at sea. To remedy this evil, spirits of wine are furnished to keepers, but does not wholly remove the difficulty. DKYING FISH, LITTLE HAKBOK. Afterward we spoke of the commerce of Marblehead. The only craft now in port were five or six ballast-lighters that had wintered in the upper harbor; w^ith this exception it was deserted. The keeper had been master of a fishing vessel. I could not help remarking to him on this ominous state of things. "I have seen as many as a hundred and twenty vessels lying below us here, getting ready for a cruise on the Banks," he said. "And now?" "Now there are not more than fifteen sail that hail out of here.'' " So that fishing, as a business — " "Is knocked higher than a kite." Will it ever come down aiiain ? MARBLEHEAD. 233 "We commiserate the situation of an individual out of business; what shall we, then, say of a town thrown out of employment ? Before tlie Revolution, Marblehead was our principal fishing port. When the war came tliis indus- try was broken up for the seven years of the contest. Most of the men went into the army, one entire regiment being raised here. Many entered on board privateers or the public armed vessels of the revolted colonies. At the close of the war, great destitution prevailed by reason of the losses in men the town had sustained ; and as usual a lottery was resorted to for the benefit of the survivors. The War of 1812 again drove the Marblehead fishermen from their peaceful calling to man our little navy. At its close five hundred of her sons were in British prisons. Fisheries have often been called the agriculture of the seas. Sir Walter Raleigh attributed the wealth and power of Holland, not to its commerce or carrying trade, but to its fisheries. Captain John Smith was of this opinion ; so were Mirabeau and De Witt. Franklin seemed to ])refer the fisheries of America to agriculture; and Edmund Burke paid our fishermen the noblest panegyric of them all : " No sea but is vexed by their fisheries. No climate that is not witness to their toils. Neither the perseverance of Holland, nor the activity of France, nor the dexterous and firm sagacity of English enterprise ever carried this most perilous mode of hardy industry to the extent to which it has been pushed by this recent people — a people who are still, as it were, but in the gristle, and not yet hardened into the bone of manhood.'" Add to this Napoleon's opinion that the American was the superior of the English seaman, and national self-complacency may safely rest on two such eminent authorities. The light-keeper, who had been on the Banks, informed me that it was still the custom, when lying to in a heavy blow, to pour oil on the waves alongside the vessel; and that it was eftectual in smootliing the sea — not a wave breaking within its influence. Dr. Franklin's experiments are the first I remember to have read of A single tea-spoonful, he says, quieted the ruflJed surface of near half an acre of water in a windy day, and i-endered it as smooth as a looking-glass.^ This man would have triumplied over nature herself Without doubt Marblehead owes a large share of her naval renown to her fishery; to those men who entered the sea-service at the bowsprit, like the great navigator, Cook, and not at the cabin windows. They gave a distinct- ively American character to our little navies of 1776 and 1812. Southey, while writing his " Life of Nelson," flings down his pen in despair to say : "What a miserable thing is this loss of a second frigate to the Americans. It is a cruel stroke ; and, though their frigates are larger ships than ours, must be felt as a disgrace, and in fact is disgrace. It looks as if there was a * "Address to the Electors of Bristol." ^ "Pliilosopliical Transactions," vol. Ixiv., part ii. 234 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. dry-rot in our wooden walls. Is it that this captain also is a youngster hoist- ed up by interest, or that the Americans were manned by Englishmen, or that our men do not fight heartily, or that their men are better than ours?" One writer calls the fishery " a great nursery of the marine, from whence a constant supply of men, inured to the perils of the sea, are constantly ready for the service of their country." Supposing this doctrine correct, it becomes an interesting question where the sailors of future navies are to come from? The whale-fishery has been fiiirly beaten out of the field by oil-spouting rocks. Why should we brave the perils of the Arctic circle when by sinking a tube in Pennsylvania we may strike a fellow of a thousand barrels, and wax rich Avhile asleep ? New London, Nantucket, New Bedford, and Edgartowu have answered. The cod and mackerel fisheries have dwindled into like insignifi- cance, say Marblehead, Gloucester, and all fishing ports along shore. When these towns, once so exclusively maritime, found the fishery slipping through their fingers, they took up shoe-making, and at present you will see plenty of Crispins, but not many blue-jackets, in Marblehead, Cobbling is now carried on in the barn-lofts, fish-houses, and cottages. Yet this change of condition is not met, as in the failing whale-fishery, by a supply from a difi'erent source; fish continues to be as highly esteemed and in greater request than ever; it is the supply, not the demand, that is diminishing. There are some of those larger shoe-factories in the town where hides are received at the front door, and are delivered at the back, in an incredibly short time, ready for wear. The young men I saw in long aprons at the benches had none of the rugged look of their fathers. Their white arms showed little of the brawn that comes from constant handling of the oar. The air of the workshop was stifling, and I gladly left it, thinking these were hardly the fellows to stand by the guns or reef-tackles. One old man with whom I conversed bitterly deplored that shoe-making had killed fish- ing, and had made the young men, as he phrased it, " nash," which is what they say of fish that the sun has spoiled. At the time I was thei'e shoe- making itself was suffering from a depression of trade, and many of the in- liabitants appeared to be in a state of uncertainty as to their future that, I im- agine, may become chronic. One individual, while lamenting the decline of business, brightened up as he said, " But I understand they an't much better off at Beverly." The decline of the cod-fishery is attributed to the use of trawls, and to the greed that kills the goose that has laid the golden egg. Formerly fish were taken with hand-lines only, over the side of the vessel. Then they began to carry dories, in which the crew sought out the best places. The men lost in fogs or bad weather while looking for or visiting their trawls swell the list of casualties year by year. Fitting out fishing-vessels, instead of being the simple matter it once was, has become an affair of capital, the trawls for a vessel sometimes costins; fifteen hundred dollars. MARBLEHEAD. 235 Douglass gives some particulars of the fishery, as practiced in his own ami at an earlier day. He says the North Sea cod, and those taken on tlie Irish coast were considered better than the American fish, but were inadequate to the supply. No fish were considered merchantable in England or Ireland less than eighteen inches long from the first fin to the beginning of the tail. In Newfoundhmd they worked tlieir fish " belly down ;" in New England they were worked with their backs downward, to receive more salt, and add to their weight. The stock-fish of Norway and Iceland were cured without salt, by hanging them in winter upon sticks called by the Dutch "stocks" — this may have been the origin of our dnnfish. The fisli mnrlo in INfarblehead for UNLOADING FISH. Spain were known as " Bilboa drithe," and could be held out horizontally by tlie tail. Those cured for the western market were called "Albany drithe," from the f;ict that Albany was the head-quarters of that trade. To quote from Douglass, he says: "In 1746 Marblehead ships off^ more dried cod than all the rest of New England besides. Anno 1732 a good fish year, and in profound peace, Marblehead had about one hundred and twenty schooners of about fifty tons burden, seven men aboard, and one man ashore to make the fish, or about one thousand men employed, besides the seamen who carry the fish to market. Two hundred quintals considered a fare. In 1747 they have not exceeding seventy schooners, and make five fares yearly to I. Sables, St. George's Banks, etc." 236 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. M. Rochefoucauld Liancourt, wlio visited New England in 1799, making a tour of the coast as far as the Penobscot, says at that time the vessels were usually of seventy tons, and had a master, seven seamen, and a boy. The owner had a quarter, the dryer on the coast an eighth, and the rest was shared by the master and seamen, in proportion to the fish they had taken. Every man took care of his own fisli. As early as 1631 Governor Matthew Cradock established a fishing station at Marblehead, in charge of Isaac Allerton, whose name appears fifth on the celebrated compact of the Pilgrims, signed at Cape Cod, November 11th, 1620.' Winthrop mentions in his journal that as the Arabella was standing in for Naumkeag, on the 12th of June, 1630, Mr. Allerton boarded her in a shallop as he was sailing to Pemaquid. Moses Maverick lived at Marblehead with Allerton, and married his daughter Sarah. In 1635 Allerton conveyed to his son-in-law all the houses, buildings, and stages he had at Marblehead. In 1638 Moses was licensed to sell a tun of Avine a year. In Winthrop's "Journal," under the date of 1633, is the following with reference to this plantation :^ '■'■February 1. — Mr. Cradock's house at Marblehead was burnt down about midnight before, there being then in it Mr. Allerton, and many fishermen M'hom he employed that season, who all were preserved by a special provi- dence of God, with most of his goods therein, by a tailor, who sat up that night at work in the house, and, hearing a noise, looked out and saw the house on fire above the oven in the thatch.'" While retracing my steps back to town, I pictured the harbor in its day of prosperity. A hundred sail would have given it a degree of animation quite marvelous to see. Six hours a hundred sharp prows point up the har- bor, and six they look out to sea. Above the tapering forest of equal growth are thrust the crossed spars of ships from Cadiz, in Spain. Innumerable wher- ries dart about, rowed by two men each ; they are strongly built, for baiting trawls on the banks and in a sea is no child's play. The cheery cries, rattling of blocks, and universal bustle aboard the fleet announce the preparations for sailing. At the top of the flood up go a score of sails, and round go as many ' A headland of Boston Harbor is named for him, Point Allerton. ^ "Mos.es Maverick testifieth that in the yeare 1640 or 41 the toune of Salem pranted unto the inhabitants of Marblehead the land we now injoy, with one of Salem, to act with us, w'' acordingly was acordingly attended unto the yeare 1648, in which yeare Marblehead was confirmed a toime, and to that time y' never knew or understood he desented from what was acted in layeing out land or stinting the Comons, and have beene accounted a Toune, and payd dutyes accordingly as it hath been required. Taken vpon oath ; 19: Imo -^-. Wm. Hathorne, 4/^'- " (Origiual Document.) Vera Copia, taken the 25 of May, 1C74, by rne, Robert Ford, Cleric." ^ Relics of Indian occupation have been found in Marblehead at various times. There is a shell heap on the Wyman Farm, on the line of the Eastern liailway, quite near the farm-house. MARBLE HEAD. 237 'windlasses to a rattHni^ chorus. Anchors are liove short in a trice. Tlie vessels first under way draw out from among tlie Heet, clear tlie moutli of the harbor, and in a few minutes more are Hinging the seas from their bows with Marblehead Light well under their lee. I do not know who first discovered Marblehead. The vague idea asso- ciates it with a heap of steiile rocks, inhabited by fishermen speaking an un- intelligible jargon. Though not twenty miles from the New England nietroj)- olis, and notwithstanding its past is interwoven with every page of our his- toric times, less is known of it than would seem credible to the intelligent reader. A faithful chronicle of its fortunes would, no doubt, be sufficiently A GKOUP OF ANTIQUES. curious, tliough many would, I fear, prefer the stories of Tyre and Carthage. But Marblehead is unique ; there is nothing like it on this side of the water. I was struck, on entering the place, with Whitefield's observation when he asked where the dead were buried ; for the great want appears to be earth. But a further acquaintance revealed more pleasant inclosures of turf, orchards, and garden-spots than its gaunt crags seemed capable of sustaining. The town may be said to embrace two very dissimilar portions, of which the larger appears paralyzed with age, and the other the outgrowth of a newer and more thriving generation. It is Avith the old town I have to do. I preferred to commit myself to the guidance of the narrow streets, and drift about wherever they listed. The stranger need not try to settle his 238 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. topography beforehand. He would lose his labor. It was only after a third ' visit that I began to have some notions of the maze of rocky lanes, alleys, and courts. Caprice seemed to have governed the location of a majority of the houses by the water-side, and the streets to have adjusted themselves to the wooden anarchy ; or else the idea forced itself upon you that the houses must have been stranded here by the flood, remaining where the subsiding waters left them; for they stand anywhere and nowhere, in a ravine or atop a cliff, crowding upon and elbowing each other until no man, it would seem, might know his own. How one of those ancient mariners rolling heavily homeward after a night's carouse could have found his own dwelling, is a mystery I do not undertake to solve. M. De Chastellux, who had a compliment ready-made for every thing American, was accosted when in Boston with the remark, "Marquis, you find a crooked city in Boston?" "Ah, ver good, ver good," said the chevalier; " it show de Uberte.''^ I found Washington Street a good base of operations. A modern dwelling is rarely met with between this thoroughfare and the water. On State (for- merly King) Street there is but one house less than a century old, and the frame of that one was being raised the day Washington came to town. Even he was struck by the antiquated look of the buildings. The long exemption from fire is little less than miraculous, for a building of brick or stone is an exception. Old houses, gambrel-roofed, hip-roofed, and pitch-roofed, with an occasional reminiscence of London in Milton's day, are ranged on all sides; little altered in a hundred years, though I should have liked better to have chanced this way when the porches of some were projecting ten feet into the street. I enjoyed losing myself among them ; for, certes, there is more of the crust of antiquity about Marblehead than any place of its years in America. An air of snug and substantial comfort iiung about many of the older houses, and some localities betokened there was an upper as well as a nether stratum of society in Marblehead. Fine old trees flourished in secluded neigh- borhoods, where the brass door-knockers shone with unwonted lustre. I think ray fingers itched to grasp them, so suggestive were they of feudal times when stranger knight summoned castle-warden by striking Avith his sword-hilt on the oaken door. Fancy goes in unbidden at their portals, and roves among their cramped corridors and best rooms, peering into closets w^here choice china is kept, or rummaging among the curious lumber of the garrets, the ac- cumulations of many generations. On the whole, the dwellings represent so iar as they may a singular equality of condition. It is only by turning into some court or by-way that you come i;nexpectedly upon a mansion having about it some relics of a former splendor. Though Marblehead has its Bil- lingsgate, I saw nothing of the squalor of our larger cities; and though it may have its Rotten Row, I remarked neither lackeys nor showy equipages. There are few sidewalks in the older quarter. The streets are too nar- MAKBLEHEAD. 2^9 row to afford such a luxury, averaging, I should say, not more than a rod in width in the older ones, with 'barely room for a single vehicle. The jjasser-by may, if he pleases, look into the first-floor sitting- rooms, and see the family gathered at its usual occupations. Whether it be a greater indiscretion to look in at the windows than to look out of them, as the matrons and maidens are in the hab- it of do- ing when a " - stranger is in the neighborhood, is a question I will- ingly remand to the decision of my read- ers ; yet I confess I found _/£ the temptation too strong to be resisted. In order to protect those houses at "" the street corners, a mass- ive stone post is often seen imbedded in the ground; but to give them a wide berth is impossible, and I looked for business to be brisk at the wheelwright's shop. Again, as the street encountoi^ a ledge in its way, one side ot it mounts the acclivity, ten, twenty LEE STKEEX. 240 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. feet above youv head, while the other keeps the level as before. Sucli acci- dental looking-dowTi upon their neighbors does not, perhaps, argue moral or material pre-eminence; but, for all that, there may be a shilling side. One thing about these old houses impressed me pleasantly; though many of them were guiltless of paint, and on some roofs mosses had begun to creep, and a yellow rust to cover the clapboards, there were few windows that did not boast a goodly show of scarlet geraniums, fuchsias, or mignonnette, with ivy clustering lovingly about the frames, making the dark old casements blos- som again, and glow with a wealth of warm color. I was too well acquainted with maritime towns to be surprised at finding fishing-boats, even of a few tons burden, a quarter of a mile from the water. They might even be said to crop out with remarkable frequency. Some were covered with boughs, their winter protection ; others were being patched, painted, or calked, preparatory for launching, with an assiduity and solicitude that can only be appreciated by the owners of such craft. On the street that skirts the harbor I saw a fisherman just landed enter his cottage, " paying out," as he went, from a coil of rope, one end being, I ascertained, fastened to his wherry. I remember to have seen in Mexico the vaqueros, on alighting from their mules, take from the pommel of their saddles some fathoms of braided hair-rope, called a lariat, and, on entering a shop or dwelling, uncoil it as they went. The custom of these Marblehead fishermen seemed no less ingenious. In a sea-port my instinct is for the water. I have a predilection for the wharves, and, though I could well enough dispense with their smells, for their sights and sounds. The cross-ways in Marblehead seem in search of the harbor as they go wriggling about the ledges. I should say they had been formed on the ancient footpaths leading down to the fishing stages. At the head of one pier, half imbedded in the earth, was an old honey-combed cannon that looked as if it might have spoken a word in the dispute with the mother country, but now played the part of a capstan, and truant boys were casting dirt between its blistered lips. In Red Stone Cove there lay, stranded and broken in two, a long-boat, brought years ago from China, perhaps, on the deck of some Indiaman. Its build was outlandish ; so unlike the wherries that were by, yet so like the craft that swim in the turbid Yang Tse. I took a seat in it, and was carried to the land of pagodas, opium, and mandarins. Its sheathing of camphor- wood still exhaled the pungent odor of the aro- matic tree. On either quarter was painted an enormous eye that seemed to follow you about the strand. In all these voyages some part of the Old World seems to have drifted westward, and attached itself to the shores of the New. Here it was a Portuguese from the Tagus, or a Spaniard of Ali- cante; elsewhere a Norwegian, Swede, or Finn, grafted on a strange clime and way of life. The men I saw about the wharves, in woolen "jumpers" and heavy fish- MARBLEIIEAD. 241 ill"" boots, bad tbe true "guinea-stami)" of tbe old Ironsides of tbe sea. To see tb»se lumbering lisbermen in tbe streets you would not tbink tbey could be so bandy, or tread so ligbtly in a dory. I saw tbere an old foreign-looking seaman, one of tbose fellows witb sbort, bowed legs, drooping sboulders, con- tracted eyelids, and bands dug in tbeir pockets, wbo may be met witb at all bours of tbe day and nigbt bulking about tbe quays of a sbipping town. Tbis man eyed tbe preparations of amateur boatmen witb tbe contemptuous curiosity often voucbsafed by sucb personages in tbe small affair of getting a pleasure-boat under way. One poor fellow, wbo kept a little sbop wbere be could bear tbe wash of tbe tide on tbe loose pebbles of tbe cove, told me be tucker's wharf— the steps. had lost bis leg by tbe cable getting a turn round it. Though they have a rough outside, these men have hearts. His skipper, he said, had put about, though it was a dead loss to him, and sailed a hundred miles to land bis mu- tilated shipmate. How did Marblehcad look in the olden time? Its early history is allied witli that of Salem, of which it formed a part until 1648. Francis Higginson, who came over in 1629, says, in that year, "There are in all of us, both old and new planters, about three hundred, whereof two hundred of them are set- tled at Nebumkek, now called Salem; and tbe rest have planted themselves at Masatbulets Bay, beginning to build a town there which wee do call 16 242 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. Chei-ton or Charles Town." His New England's "Plantation" is curious reading. I have observed in my researches that these old divines are often fond of drawing the long bow, a failing of which Higginson, one of the earliest, seems conscious when he asks in his exordium, " Shall such a man as I lye? No, verily !" William Wood, describing the place in 1633, says of it: "Marvil Head is a place which lyeth 4 miles full south from Salem, and is a very convenient place for a plantation, especially for such as will set upon the trade of fishing. There was made here a ship's loading of fish the last year, where still stand the stages and drying scaflfolds." In 1635, the court order that " there shalbe a Plantacion at Marblehead." John Josselyn looked in here in 1663. "Marvil, or Marblehead," he says, GREGORY STREET. is " a small harbour, the shore rookie, on which the town is built, consisting of a few scat- tered houses; here they have stages for fishermen, orchards, and gardens half a mile Avithin land, good pas- tures, and arable land." It had now begun to emerge from the insignificance of a fishing village, and to assume a place among the number of maritime towns. In 1696 a French spy makes report: "Marvalet est compose de 100 ou 120 maisons pescheurs oil il pent entrer de gros vaisseaux." In 1707-8 Marblehead was represented to the Lords of Trade as a smug- gling port for Boston, for which it also furnished pilots. A few years earlier (1704) Quelch, the pirate, had been apprehended there, after having scattered his gold right and left. But it was not until an order had come from the Governor and Council at Boston that he was arrested, nor had there been a MARBLEHEAD. 243 province law against piracy until within a few years." Seven of Quelch's gang were taken by Major Stephen Sewall; and the inhabitants of Marble- head were required to bring in the gold coin, melted down, and silver plate they had not been unwilling to receive. It was, no doubt, owing to the lawless habits introduced that the charac- ter of the sea-faring population partook of a certain wildness — such as good Parson Barnard inveighs against — manifesting itself in every-day transac- tions, and infusing into the men an adventurous and reckless spirit which fitted them in a measure for deeds of daring, and gave to the old sea-port no small portion of the notoriety it enjoys. Mr. Barnard speaks of the earlier class of fishermen as a rude, swearing, fighting, and drunken crew. The Rev. Mr. Whitwell, in his discourse on the disasters of 1770, does not give them a better character. " No wonder," he says, "the children of such parents imitate their vices, and, when they return from their voyages, have learned to curse and damn their younger brothers." He continues to pour balm into their wounds in this wise : " We hope we shall hear no more cursing or profaheness from your mouths Instead of spending your time in those unmanly games which disgrace our children in the streets, we trust you will be seriously concerned for the salvation of your souls." Austin, in his " Life of Elbridge Gerry," speaks of the fishermen as a sober and industrious class; but the testimony of local historians is wholly opposed to his assertion.'^ They passed their winters in a round of reckless dissipa- tion, or until the arrival of the fishing season set half the town afloat again. It Avas then left in the hands of the women, the elders, and a few merchants. There is much in the annals of such a community to furnish materials for his- tory, or, on a lesser scale, hints for romance. Captain Goelet, who was here in 1750, estimated the town to contain about four hundred and fifty houses. *' They were," he said, "all wood and clapboarded, the generality miserable buildings, mostly close in with the rocks, with rocky foundations very Cragy and Crasey. The whole towne is built upon a rock, which is heigh and steep to the water. The harbour is sheltered by an island, which runs along parallel to it and brakes off the sea. Vessells may ride here very safe ; there is a path or way downe to the warf, which is but small, and on which is a large Ware House where they land their fish, etc. From this heigh Cliffty shore it took its name. I saw ab* 5 topsail ves- sels and ab* 10 schooners or sloops in the harbour ; they had then ab' 70 sail schooners a-fishing, with about 600 men and Boys imployd in the fishery : they take vast quantitys Cod, which they cure heere. Saw several thousand flakes then cureing. The place is noted for Ciiildren, and Nouriches the most of any place for its bigness in North America ; it's said the chief cause is attrib- uted to their feeding on Cod's heads, etc., which is their Principall Dish. The greatest distaste a person has to this place is the stench of the fish, the whole air seems tainted with it. It may in short be said its a Dirty Erregular, Stincking place.'"* * A bill against piracy was ordered to.be brought in March 1st, 1G86 ; March ith the bill passed. " The first mention of Marblehead in the colony records I have seen is of two men fined there for being drunk, in the year 1G33. ^ "New England Historical and Genealogical Register," 1870, p. 57. 244 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. The fortunes of tlie place were now greatly altered. The obscure fishing village had become a bustling port, with rich cargoes from Spain and the Antilles lying within its rock-bound shores. Ships were being built in the coves, and substantial mansions were going up in the streets — in whose cel- lars, as I have heard, were kegs of hard dollars, salted down, as one might say, like the staple of Marblehead. John Adams, then a young lawyer on the circuit, enters in his diary, under date of 1760, the brief impression of a first visit to Marblehead: "14, Thursday. — In the morning rode a single horse, in company with Mrs. Cranch and Mrs. Adams, in a chaise to Marblehead. The road from Salem to Marblehead, four miles, is pleasant indeed (so I found it). The grass plats and fields are delightful, but Marblehead diifers from Sa- lem. The streets are narrow and rugged and dirty, but there are some very grand buildings." As John Adams saw it so does the stranger of to-day, ignoring such mod- ern improvements as railway, gas-works, telegraph, and factories, and sticking closely to the skirts of the old town. I should say Marblehead might still assert its title to the number of chil- dren it " nourishes." Certainly they seemed out of all proportion to the adult population. Instinct guides them to the water from their birth, and they may be seen paddling about the harbor in stray wherries or clambering up the rigging of some collier, in emulation of their elders. Even their talk has a salty flavor. I recollect an instance, which must lose by the relation. A young scape-grace having incurred the maternal displeasure, and then taken to his heels to escape chastisement, the good-wife gave chase, brandishing a broomstick aloft, and breathing vengeance on her unnatural ofispring. Hav- ing the wind fair and a heavy spread of petticoat, she was rapidly gaining on the youngster, when a comrade, who was watching the progress of the race with a critical eye, bawled out, "Try her on the wind. Bill; try her on the whuV A sailor on shore is not unlike Napoleon's dismounted dragoon : he is em- phatically a fish out of water. One talked of " making his horse fast;" an- other complained that his neckerchief was "tew taut;" and a third could not understand which way to move a boat until his companion called out, "Plaul to the west'ard, can't ye ?" If not insular, your genuine Marbleheader is the next thing to it. The rest of the world is merged with him into a place to sell his fish and buy his salt. Even Salem, Beverly, and the parts adjacent draw but little on his sym- pathy or his fellowship: in short, they are not Marblehead. During the Na- tive American excitement of 18 — , the Marbleheaders entered into the move- ment with enthusiasm. A caucus being assembled to nominate town ofl^cers, one old fisherman came into the town hall in his baize apron, just as he had got out of his dorj\ He glanced over the list of ofiicers with an approving grunt at each name until he came to that of Squire Fabens. Now Squire Fabens, though a Salem man born, had lived a score of years in Marblehead, MARBLEHEAD. 245 had married, and held office there. Turning wrathfuUy to the ])erson wlio had given liim the ticket, tlie fisherman tore it in pieces, exclaiming as he did so, "D'j-e call that a Native American ticket? Why, there's Squire Fabens on it ; he an't a Marbleheader !" Though it is true there are few instances of the fatal straight line in Mar- blehead, those who are native there are far from appreciating the impression its narrow and crooked ways make on the stranger. Tliey, at any rate, ap- peared to find their way without the difficulty I at first experienced. I asked one I met if I was in the right route to the depot. "Go straight ahead," was his injunction, a direction nothing but a round-shot from Fort Sewall could have followed. But I should add that Marblehead is not a labyrinth, any more than it is a field for mis- sionai'Y work: it has churches, banks, schools, a newspaper, and even a de- bating society ; and it has thorough- fares that may be traversed without a guide. The great man of Mai'blehead in the colonial day was Colonel Jeremiah Lee, whose still elegant mansion is to be seen there. Unlike many of the gentry of his time. Colonel Lee was a thorough-going patriot. He was, with Orne and Gerry, a delegate to the first and second Provincial Congresses of 1774. When the famous Revolution- ary Committee of Safety and Supplies was formed, he became and continued a member until his death in May, 1775. Colonel Lee was with the committee on the day before the battle of Lexington, and with Gerry and Orne remained to pass the night at the Black Horse tavern in Menotomy, now Arlington. When the British advance reached this house it was surrounded, the half- dressed patriots having barely time to escape to a neighboring corn-field, where they threw themselves upon the ground until the search was over. From the exposure incident to this adventure Lee got his death. His towns- men treasure his memory as one of the men who formed the Revolution, braved its dangers, and accepted its responsibilities. Colonel Lee was a stanch churchman, which makes his adhesion to the patriot side the more remarkable. There is nothing about the exterior of the Lee mansion to attract the stranger's attention, though it cost the colonel, when furnished, ten thousand pounds sterling. As Avas customary, its offices were on one side and its sta- LEE HOUSE. 246 ' THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. bles on the other, with a court-yard paved with beach-pebble, in which the date of the house, 1768,' may be traced. Entrance was gained on front and side over massive freestone steps, that show the print of time to have pressed more heavily than human feet. The house, long since deserted by the family, is now occupied as a bank. On entering the mansion of the Lees the visitor is struck with the expan- "sive area of the hall, which is six paces broad, and of corresponding depth. Age has imparted a rich coloring to the mahogany wainscot and casing of the staircase. The balusters are curiously carved in many different patterns; tlie walls are still hung with their original paper, in panels representing Ro- man or Grecian ruins, with trophies of arms, or implements of agriculture or of the chase between. One panel represented a sea-fight of Blake and Van Tromp's day. Some of them have been permanently disfigured by the use of the hall, at one time, as a fish-market. In a corner, a trap-door led to the old merchant's wine-cellar, which he thus kept under his own eye. It was after a visit to some such mansion that Daniel Webster asked, " Did those old fellows go to bed in a coach-and-four?" The rooms opening at the right and left of the hall are worthy of it, espe- cially the first named, which is wainscoted from floor to ceiling, and enriched with elaborate carving. Over the fire-place of this room was formerly a por- trait of Esther before Ahasuerus, beautifully painted on a panel. There is an upper hall of ample size, from which open sleeping apartments with pictured tiles, recessed windows, and panes that were the wonder of the town, in which none so large had been seen. Would I had been here when the old colonel's slaves kept the antique brasses brightly polished, and stout logs crackled and snapped in the fire- places, in the day of cofiin-clocks, French mirrors, and massive old plate, when the bowl of arrack-punch stood on the sideboard, and Copley's portraits of master and mistress graced the walls.* The painter has introduced the col- onel in a brown velvet coat laced with gold, and full-bottomed wig. He was short in stature and rather portly, with an open face, thin nostril, and fine, in- telligent eye. The head is slightly thrown back, a device of the artist to add height to the figure. Madam Lee is in a satin overdress, with a pelisse of ermine negligently cast about her bare shoulders. She looks a stately dame, with her black eyes and self-possessed air, or as if she miglit have kept the colonel's house, slaves included, in perfect order.^ When General Washington was making his triumphal tour of the East- ern States, in 1789, he came to Marblehead. It was, he says, "four miles out ' I have seen the date of 1766 assigned for its building. ^ Think of Copley painting these two canvases, eight feet long by five wide, and in his best manner, for £25 ! ' These portraits are now in possession of Colonel William Raymond Lee, of Boston. MARBLEHEAD. 247 of the way; but I wanted to see it." And so he turned aside to ride through its rocky lanes, and look into the fixces of the men who had followed him fi-om Cambridge to Trenton, and from Trenton to Yorktown. How the sight of their chief must have warmed the hearts of those veterans ! He jot- ted down in his diary very briefly what he saw and heard in Marble- head: "About 5000 souls are said to be in this place, which has the ap- pearance of antiq- uity; the houses are old; the streets dirty; and the common people not very clean. Before we entered the town we were met and attended by a com'e, till we were handed over to the Selectmen, who conducted us, saluted by artillery, into the town to the house of a Mrs. Lee, where there was a cold collation prepared ; after partaking of which, we vis- ited the harbor, etc." Lafayette, Monroe, and Jackson have been entertained in the same house. When the Revolutionary junto wished to organize its artillery, William Raymond Lee was summoned to Cambridge to command one of the com- panies. He was nephew to the old colonel, valiantly taking up the cause where his uncle had laid it down. Afterward he served in Glover's regiment, passing through all the grades from captain to colonel. Another nephew was that John Lee who, while in command of a privateer belonging to the Tracys, with a battery, part of iron and partly of wooden guns, captured a rich ves- sel of superior force in the bay. Both the colonel's fighting nephews were of Manchester, on Cape Ann. Threading my way onward, I came upon the old Town-house, the Faneuil Hall of Marblehead, in which much treason was hatched when George LEL was king. The Whigs of Old Essex have often been heard there when grave questions were to be discussed, and the jarring atoms of society have oft been summoned greeting, "To grand parading of town-meeting." TOWN HOUSE AND SQUARE. 248 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. In the old Town-house Judge Story went to school and was fitted for col- lege ; the substantial dwelling in which he was born being nearly opposite, with its best parlor become an apothecary's, under the sign of Goodwin. This house was the dwelling of Dr. Elisha Story, of Revolutionary memory, and the birtliplace of his son, the eminent jurist. The physicians of Dr. Story's time usually furnished their own medicines. In cocked hat and suit of rusty black, with saddle-bags and countenance severe, they were marked men in town or village. Since my visit to Marblehead the last of Dr. Stoi-y's eighteen children. Miss Caroline Story, died at the age of eighty-five. The chief-justice, her brother, was one of the most lovable of men, and was never, I believe, ashamed of the slight savor of the dialect that betrayed him native and to the manner born. The Episcopal church in Marblehead is one of its old landmarks, concur- ring fully, so fiir as outward appearance goes, in the prevailing mouldiness. It is not remarkable in any way except as an oddity in wood, with a square _ tower of very mod- >^^"i^Mi^ -:_^fi^ est height sur- mounting a broad and sloping roof At a distance it is scarcely to be dis- tinguished in the wooden chaos ris- ing on all sides; and not long ago its front was mask- ^\ ed by buildings, so that the entrance- door could only be I'eached by a wind- ing path. The par- ish has at length cleared its ancient glebe of intruders, and the old church is no longer jostled by its dissenting ~^°^ "^ neighbors. Imme- ST. MICHAEL'S, MAKBLEHEAU. T ^ i T • • diately adjommg is a little church-yard, in which repose the ashes of former worshipers who loved these old walls, and would lie in their shadow. St. Michael's, as originally built, must have been an antique gem. Ac- cording to the account given me by the rector, it had seven gables, topped MARBLEHEAD. 249 by a tower, from which sprung a shapely spire, with another on the north and one on the south side. The form of the building was a square, with entrances on the soutli and west. The aisles crossed each other at right angles ; the ceiling, supported by oaken columns, was in the form of a St. Andrew's cross. The present barren area of pine shingles was built above the old roof, which it extinguished eftectually. Cotton Mather — he did not allude to the Church of England — styled the New England churches golden candlesticks, set up to illu- minate the country; but what would he have said had he lived to see the Puri- tan Thanksgiving and Fast gradually superseded by Christmas and by Easter? The interior of the old church well repays a visit. Its antiquities are guarded as scrupulously as the old faith has been. Suspended from the ceil- ing is a chandelier, a wonderful affair in brass, the gift of a merchant of Bris- tol, England. The little pulpit, successor to an earlier one of wine-glass pat- tern, belongs to an era before the in- troduction of costly woods. Above the altar is tha Decalogue, in the ancient lettering, done in England in 1714. Manifestly St. Michael's clings to its relics with greater affection than did that parish in the Old Country, which offered its second-hand Ten Command- ments for sale, as it was going to buy new ones. In the organ-loft is a dimin- utive instrument, going as far back as the day of Snetzler. Notwithstanding the disappearance of the cross from its pinnacle, and of the royal emblems from their place (save the mark !) above the Decalogue, St. Michael's remains to-day an interesting memorial of Anglican worship in the colonies. It was the third church in Massachusetts, and the fourth in all New England, those of Boston, Newbury, and Newport alone having preceded it. The names of famous people are perpetuated in the place of their birth in many ways. I noticed in Marblehead the streets bore the names of Selman, Tucker, Glover, etc. Academies, public halls, and engine-houses keep their memory green, or will do so until the era of snobbery ingulfs the place, and pulls the old signs down. Its future, I apprehend, is to become a summer re- sort. When that period of intermittent prosperity shall have set in in full tide, it will be difficult, if not impossible, to preserve the peculiar quaintness which now makes Marblehead the embodiment of the old New England life. Elbridge Gerry was born in Marblehead. He was of middle stature, thin, of courteous, old-school manners, and gentlemanly address. He has the name ELBRIDGE GEKKY. 250 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. of a strong parti- san, and of stand- ing godfather to the geograjjhical monstrosity called the Gerrymander, which has added a word to our political vocabulary/ A more effective party caricature has never appeared in America. It is admitted it has given its author a notoriety that has somewhat ob- scured eminent public service, and made his name a by-word for polit- ical chicaneiy. Those who believe the worst phases of political controversy have been reserved to our own time would do well to read the liistory of the administrations of Washington, Ad- ams, and Jefferson, whom we are ac- customed to name with reverence as the fathers of the republic, yet who, while in office, were the objects of as much personal malignity and abuse as their successors have received. Mr. Gerry was invited to take a seat in the Massachusetts Convention when the constitution of 1787 was under consideration, in order that that body might have the benefit of his conceded sagacity and knowledge of affairs. He op- posed the adoption of the constitution before the Convention. At heart Mr. Gerry was an undoubted patriot. Once, when he believed himself dying, he re- marked that if he had but one day to live it should be devoted to his country. Elbridge Gerry was destined for the practice of medicine, but engaged in mercantile pursuits instead; having acquired a competency at the time of the beginning of the Revolution, he was free to take part in the struggle. He held many important offices, and his public career, full of the incidents of stirring times, was marked also by some eccentricities. Mr. Geriy, as early as November, 1775, introduced a bill into the Provincial Congress for the fitting-out of armed vessels by Massachusetts. In the direction of inaugu- rating warfare with England at sea, he was, without doubt, the pioneer. ' It is not settled who is entitled to the authorship of the word "Gerrymander," for which a number of claimants have appeared. The map of Essex, which gave rise to the caricature, was drawn by Nathan Hale, who edited the Boston Weskly Messenger, in which the political deformity first appeared. THE GEKKYMANDER. MARBLEHEAD. 251 The number of naval heroes whom Marble- head may claim as her own is something sur- prising. There were John Sel- man and Nicho- las Broughton, who sailed in two armed schooners from Beverly, as early as October, lYTo, with in- structions from Washington to intercept, if pos- sible, some of the enemy's vessels in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Fail- ing in this object? they landed at St. John's, now Prince Edward Island, captured the fort, and brought off a number of provincial dignitaries of rank. "Washington, who wanted powder, and not prisoners, was not wxll pleased with the result of this expedition, as he held it impolitic then to embroil the i-evolted colonies with Canada. Much was expected of the hereditary antipatliy of the French Canadians for their English rulers, but in this respect the general's policy was founded in a mistaken judgment of those people. Commodore Manly, to whom John Adams says the first British flag Avas struck, was either native born, or came in very early life to Marblchead. He was placed in command of the first cruiser that sailed with a regular com- mission from Washington, in 1775, signalizing his advent in the bay in the Lee — a schooner mounting only four guns — by the capture of a British vessel laden with military stores, of the utmost value to the Americans besieging l>oston. When this windfall was reported to Congress, the members be- lieved Divine Providence had interposed in their favor. Our ofticers de- clared their wants could not have been better supplied if they had themselves "OLD north" congregational church. 252 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. sent a schedule of military stoves to Woolwich Arsenal, So apprehensive was the general that his prize might slip through his lingers, that all the carts to be obtained in the vicinity of Cape Ann were impressed, in order to bring the cargo to camp. Manly died in Boston, in 1793, in circumstances nearly allied to destitution. He was, says one who knew him well, " a handy, hearty, hon- est, benevolent, blunt man, with more courage than good conduct," Another of these old sea-dogs was Commodore Samuel Tucker, the son of a ship-master. The old house in which he was born was standing on Rowland Hill, (I do not know that he of Surrey Chapel had any thing to do with the name in Marblehead.) It was be- fore the door of this house that Tucker, in his shirt- sleeves, was chopping wood one evening, just at dusk, when a finely mounted officer clattered down the street. Seeing Tucker, the officer asked if he could inform him where the Honorable Samuel Tucker resided. Tucker, astonished at the question, answered in the negative, saying, "There is no such man lives here; there is no other Sam Tucker in this town but myself." At this reply, the officer raised his beaver, and, bowing low, presented him a commission in the navy. Tucker, in 1778, was taking John Adams to France in the old frigate Bos- to?i,^ when he fell in with an enemy. While clearing his decks for action he espied Mr. Adams, musket in hand, among the marines. Laying a hand on tlie commissioner's shoulder. Tucker said to him, "I am commanded by the Continental Congress to carry you safely to Europe, and I will do it," at the same time conducting him below. The brave Captain Mugford, whose exploit in capturing a vessel laden with SAMUEL TUCKEK. ' The old frigate Boston was captured at Charleston in 1780 by the British. In 1804 Tom Moore went over to England in her, she being then commanded by Captain J. E. Donglas. MARBLEHEAD. 253 powder in Boston Harbor, in May, 1776, ])roved of inestimable value, was also an inhabitant of Marbleliead. Like Sclman and Broughton, he had been a captain in the famous Marblehead regiment, and his crew were volunteers from it. Tlie year previous, Mugford, with others, had been impressed on board a British vessel, the Lively, then stationed at Marblehead. Mugford's wife, on hearing what had befallen her husband, went off to the frigate and interceded with the captain for his release, alleging that they were just mar- ried, and that he was her sole dependence for support. The Englishman, very generously, restored JNIugford his libei'ty. The Trevetts, father and son, were little less distinguished than any al- ready named, adding to the high renown of Marblehead, both in the Old War and in the later contest with England. Glover and his regiment conferred lasting honor on this old town by the sea. As soon as it had been deter- mined to fit out armed vessels, Wash- ington intrusted the details to Glover, and ordered the regiment to Beverly, where these amphibians first equipped and then manned the privateers. The regiment signalized itself at Long Isl- and and at Trenton, and ought to have a monument on the highest point of land in Marblehead, with the names of its heroes inscribed in bronze. Gen- ci'al Glover was long an invalid from the effects of disease contracted in the army, dying in 1797.' He had been a shoe-maker, and is, I imagine, the per- son referred to in the following ex- tract from the memoirs of Madame Riedesel : "Some of the generals who accompanied us were shoe-makers; and upon their halting days they made boots for our officers, and also mended nicely the shoes of our soldiers. One of our officers had worn his boots entirely into shreds. He saw that an American general had on a good pair, and said to him, jestingly, 'I will gladly give you a guinea for them.' Immediately the general alighted from his horse, took the guinea, gave up his boots, and put on the badly-worn ones of the officer, and again mounted his liorse." Gen- eral Glover's house is still standing on Glover Square. I made, as every body must make, in Marblehead, a pilgrimage to Oakum Bay, a classic pre- cinct, and to the humble abode of Benjamin Ireson, whom Whittier has made GENEKAL GLOVER. * William P. Upham, of Saletn, has written a memoir of Glover. 254 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. immortal. Questionless the poet has done more to make Marblehead known than all the historians and magazine-writers put together, though the notori- ety is little relished there. The facts were sufficiently dramatic as they ex- isted ; but Mr. Whittier has taken a poet's license, and arranged them to his fancy. Old F'lood Ireson suffered in the flesh, and his memory has been j^il- loried in verse for a crime he did not commit. Nevertheless, I doubt that the people of Marblehead forget that Pegasus has wings, and can no more amble at the historian's slow place than he can thrive on bran and water. It is not many years since Ireson was alive, broken in spirit under the ob- loquy of his hideous ride. Later in life he followed shore-fishing, and was once blown off to sea, where he was providentially picked np by a coaster bound to some Eastern port. I do not think he could have declared his right name, for sailors are superstitious folk, and he would have been account- ed a Jonah in any ship that sailed these seas. His wherry having been cut adrift, was found, and Old Flood Ireson was believed to have gone to the bot- tom of the bay, when, to the genuine astonishment of his townsmen, he ap- peared one day plodding wearily along the streets. Some charitable souls gave him another wherry, but the boys followed the old man about as he cried his fish w'ith their cruel shouts of, "I, Elood Ireson, for leaving a wrack, Was blowed out to sea, and couldn't get back." There is book authority for the terrible aspect of the vengeance of the fish-wives of Marblehead, so picturesquely portrayed in the poet's lines. In- crease Mather, in a letter to Mr. Cotton, 23d of Fifth month, 16 77, mentions an instance of rage against two Eastern Indians, then prisoners at Marble- head : " Sabbath-day was sennight, the women at Marblehead, as they came out of the meeting-house, fell upon two Indians that were brought in as cap- tives, and, in a tumultuous way, very barbarously murdered them. Doubt- less, if the Indians hear of it, the captives among them will be served accord- ingly." This episode recalls the rage of the fish- women of Paris during the Reign of Terror, those unsexed and pitiless viragos of La Halle. I could discover little of the old Marblehead dialect, once so distinctive that even the better class were not free from it. It is true a few old people still retain in their conversation the savor of it ; but it is dying out. Your true Marbleheader would say, " barn in a burn " for " born in a barn." His speech was thick and guttural ; only an occasional word falling familiarly on the unaccustomed ear. All the world over he was known so soon as he opened his mouth. The idiom may have been the outgrowth of the place, or perchance a reminiscence of the speech of old-time fishermen, grounded, as I apprehend, more in the long custom of an illiterate people than any supposed relationship with our English mother-tongue. Whittier was acquainted with the jargon, and the question is open to the philologist. MARBLEHEAD. 255 There is a legend about the cove near Ireson's of a " screeching woman " done to death by pirates a century and a half or more past — a shadowy me- morial of the fact of their presence here so long ago. They brought her on shore from their ship, and murdered her. On each anniversary of her death, says the legend, the town was thrilled to its marrow by the unearthly out- cries of the pirates'" victim. Many believed the story, while not a few had heard the screams. Chief-justice Story was among those w'ho asserted that they had listened to those midnight cries of fear. Passing over the causeway and under the gate-way of Fort Sewall, said to have been named from Chief -justice Stephen Sewall,' who once taught school in Mar- blehead, I entered the spacious parade, on which a full regiment might easily be form- ed. The fort was built about 1742, and until what was so long known as " the late war" with England, remained substantial- ly in its original pic- turesque condition. A very old man, whom I encountered on my way hither, bemoaned the demolition of the old work, which had been pulled to pieces and made more destructive during the Great Civil War. The walls were originally of rough stone, little capable of with- standing the projectiles of modern artillery. There is another fort on the summit of a rocky eminence that overlooks the approach to the Neck, built also during the Rebellion, When I visited it, the earthen walls of one face had fallen in the ditch, where the remainder of the work bid fair, at no dis- tant day, to follow. There is still remaining in the town the quaint little powder-house built in 1755, with a roof like the cup of an acorn. Seated under the muzzle of one of the big guns of Fort Sewall that point- ed seaward, I could descry Baker's Isle with its brace of lights, and the nar- row strait through which the Abigail sailed in 1628, with Endicott and the founders of Salem on board. Two years later the Arabella "came to an an- chor a little within the island." Winthrop tells us how the storm-tossed voy- agers went upon the land at Cape Ann, and regaled themselves with store of FORT SEWALL. ' Son of Major Stephen, of Newbury, 256 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. strawberries. Boston was settled. The little colony gave its left hand to Salem, and its right to Plymouth. It waxed strong, and no power has pre- vailed against it. Little Harbor, north-west of the fort, is the reputed site of the first settle- ment at Marblehead. On Gerry's Isl- and, which lies close under the shore, was the house of the first regularly or- dained minister; the cellar and pebble- paved yard were, not long ago, identi- fied. Near by, on the main-land, is the supposed site of the " Fountain Inn," which, like the "Earl of Halifax," has its romance of a noble gentleman taken in the toils of a pretty wench.' Sir Charles Frankland, collector of his Maj- '!l esty's customs, visits Marblehead, and becomes enamored of tho handmaid of tlie inn, Agnes Surriage. He makes her his mistress, but at length, having saved liis life during the great earthquake at Lisbon, she receives the reward of love and heroism at the altar as the baronet's wedded wife. Arthur Sandeyn, who was the first publican in Marblehead, was allowed to keep an ordinary there in 1640. The port was fortified after some fashion as early as 1643-'44. I had pointed out to me the spot where the Constitution dropped anchor when chased in here by two British frigates in April, 1814. They threatened for a time to fetch her out again; but as Stewart laid the old invincible with her grim broadside to the entrance of the port, and the fort prepared to re- ceive them in a becoming manner, they prudently hauled ofl; The battle between the Chesapeake and Shannon was also visible from the high shores here, an eye-witness, then in a fishing -boat off in the bay, relating that nothing was to be seen except the two ships enveloped in a thick smoke, and nothing to be heard but the roar of the guns. When the smoke drifted to leeward, and the cannonade was over, the British ensign was seen waving above the Stars and Stripes. Poor, chivalric, ill-starred Lawrence! He had given a challenge to the commander of the Bonne Citoyen, and durst not decline one." At the Shan- POWDER-HOUSE, 1755. ' See "Old Landmarks of Boston," pp. 162,163. ^ It has been erroneously stated that Bainbridge accompanied Lawrence to the pier and tried to dissuade him from engaging the Shannon. They had not met for several days. MAKBLEHEAD. 257 non''s invitation, he put to sea with an unlucky sliip, and a mutinous crew fresli from tlie grog-shops and brothels of Ann Street. He besought them iu burning Avords to show themselves worthy the name of American sailors. They replied with sullen murmurs. One Avretch, a Portuguese named Joseph Antonio, came forward as their spokesman. His appearance was singularly fantastic. He wore a checked shirt, a laced jacket, rings in his cars, and a bandana handkerchief about his head. Laying liis hand on liis breast, he made a profound inclination to his captain as he said: " Pardon me, sir, but fair play be one jewel all over the world, and we no touchee the specie for our last cruise with Capitaine Evans. The Congress is ver' munificent; they keep our piasters in treasury, and pay us grape and canister. Good fashion in Portuguee ship, when take rich prize is not pay 2)0C0 a^oco, but break bulk and share out dollar on drum-head of capstan.'" Already wounded in the leg, Lawrence was struck by a grape-shot on the medal he wore in honor of his former victory. His words, as he was borne from the deck, have become a watchword in our navy.^ Samuel Livermore, of Boston, Avho accompanied Lawrence on this cruise out of personal regard, attempted to avenge him. His shot missed Captain Broke. Lawrence hear- ing from below the firing cease, sent his surgeon to tell his ofiicers to fight on. "The colors shall wave while Hive!" he constantly repeated. He was only thirty-four; sixteen years of his life had been passed in his country's serv- ice. His figure was tall and com- manding, and in battle he was the in- carnation of a warrior. When Mr. Croker read the state- ment of the action in the House of Commons, the members from all parts interrupted him with loud and con- tinued cheering. Perhaps a greater compliment to American valor could not have been paid than this. The capture of a single ship of any nation had never before* called forth such a triumphant outburst. The oldest burial-ground in Mar- blehead is on the summit and slopes of the highest of its rocky eminences. Here, also, the settlers raised the frame of their primitive church; some part JAMES LAWRENCE. ■ This fact was established by Geoffrey Crayon (Washington Irving) in one of his phihppics against Great Britain, of which he so slyly concealed the authorship in the preface to his "Sketch Book." * " Don't give np the ship." 17 258 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. of which, I was told, has since been translated into a more secular edifice. At the head of a little pond, Avhere a clump of dwarfish willows has become rooted, is a sheltered nook, in which are the oldest stones now to be seen. This was probably the choice spot of the whole field, but it now wears the same air of neglect common to all these old cemeteries. A stone of 1690 with the name of "Mr. Christopher Latimore, about 70 years," was the oldest I discovered. As I picked my way among the thick-set head-stones, for tliere was no path, and I always avoid treading on a grave, I came upon a grave-digger busily employed, with whom I held a few moments' parley. The man, already up to his waistband in the pit, seemed chiefly concerned lest he should not be able to go much farther before coming to the ledge, which, even in the hollow places, you are sure of finding at no great depth. On one side of the grave was a heap of yellow mould, smelling of the earth earthy, and on the other side a lesser one of human bones, that the spade had once more brought above ground. GLIMPSE OF THE SEAMEN'S MONUMENT AND OLD BUKIALGROUND. After observing that he should be lucky to get down six feet, the work- man told me the grave was destined to receive the remains of an old lady of ninety-four, recently deceased, Avho, as if fearful her rest might bo less quiet in the midst of a generation to which she did not belong, had begged she might be buried here among her old friends and neighboi'S. Al- though interments had long been interdicted in the overcrowded ground, her prayer was granted. An examination of the inscriptions confirmed Avhat I had heard relative to the longevity of the inhabitants of Marblehead, of which the crrave-digger also recounted more instances than I am able to remember. MARBLEHEAD. 259 I asked him what was done with the bones I saw lying tlierc, adding to the heap a IVagnient or two that liad fallen nnnoticed from his spade. " Wliy, you see, I bury them underneath the grave I am digging, before the folks get here. We often find such bones on the surface, wliere they have been left after tilling up a grave," was his reply. This did not appear sur- prising, for those I saw were nearly the color of the earth itself Seeing my look directed with a sort of fascination toward these relics of frail mortality, the man, evidently misconstruing my thought, took up an arm-bone with play- ful familiarity, and observed, "You should have seen the thigh-bone I found under the old Episcopal Church ! I could have knocked a man down with it easy. These," he said, throwing tlie bone upon the heap, with a gesture of contempt, " are mere rotten things." Who would be put to bed with that man's shovel ! On a grassy knoll, on the brow of the hill, is a marble monument erected by the IMarblehead Charitable Seamen's Society, in memory of its members deceased on shore and at sea. On one face are the names of those who have died on shore, and on the east those lost at sea, from the society's institution in 1831 to the year 1848. On the north are the names of sixty-five men and boys lost in the memorable gale of September 19th, 1846. Tliis number com- prised forty-three heads of families ; as many widows, and one hundred and fifty-five fatherless children, were left to mourn the fiitality. The grave-digger told me that brave Captain Mugford had been buried on this hill, but the spot Avas now unknown. I could well believe it, for nev- er had I seen so many graves with nothing more than a shapeless boulder at the head and foot to mark them. Many stones were broken and defoced, and I saw the fragments of one unearthed while standing by. There is no mate- rial so durable as the old blue slate, whereon you may often read an inscrip- tion cut two hundred years ago, while those on freestone and marble need renewing every fifty years. General Glover's tomb here is inscribed: Erected with filial respect to The Memory of The Hon. JOHN GLOVER, Esquire, Brigadier General in the late Continental Army. Died January 30th, 1797, Aged 64. Many of the old graves were covered with freshly springing "life-everlast- ing," beautifully symbolizing the rest of such as sleep in the faith. From the Seamen's Monument, at the foot of which some wooden benches are placed, is seen a broad horizon, dotted with Avhite sails. I never knew a sailor who did not wish to be buried as near as i)0ssible to the sea, though never in it. "Don't throw me overboard. Hardy," was Nelson's dying request. There are clumps of lone graves on the verge of some headland all over Xew En- 260 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. LONE GKAVES. gland, and one old grave-yard on Stage Island, in Maine, has been wholly wash- ed away. In allusion to the loss of life caused by disasters to the fishing fleets from time to time, an old man with whom I talked thought it was not greater than would occur through the ordina- ry chances of a life on shore. It is wonderful how a sea-faring population come to associate the idea of safety with the sea. Earthquakes, confla- grations, falling buildings, and like ac- cidents are more dreaded than hurri- canes, squalls, or a lee-shore. By an estimate taken from the Essex ^''ffseWe, of January 2d, 1770, it ap- pears that in the two preceding years Marblehead lost twenty-three sail of vessels, with their crews, numbef- ing one hundred and sixty - two souls,without tak- ing into account those who were lost from vessels on their return. There were few families that did not mourn a rela- tive, and some of the older inhabit- ants remember to have heard their elders speak of it with a shudder. These are the annals that doubt- less suggested Miss Larcom's " Hannah Bind- ing Shoes," and the long, lingering, yet fruitless watching for those who nev- er come back. The last shake of the hand, the last kiss, and the last flashing of the white sail are much like the farewell on the day of battle. "sitting, stitching in a mournful muse, THE nOE, ENGLISH PLYMOUTH. CHAPTER XVII. PLYMOUTH. "What constitutes a state? Not high raised battlements or labored mound, Thick walls or moated gate." "PLYMOUTH is the American Mecca. It does not coTitain the tomb of ■^ the Prophet, but the Rock of the Forefathers, tlieir traditions, and their graves. The first impressions of a stranger are disappointing, for the oldest town in New England looks as fresh as if built within the century. There is not much that is suggestive of the old life to be seen there. Exce])t the hills, the haven, and the sea, there is nothing antique ; save a few carefully cher- ished relics, nothing that has survived the day of the Pilgrims. Somehow monuments — and Plymouth is to be well furnished in the future — do not compensate for the absence of living facts. The house of William Bradford would have been worth more to me than any of them. Even the rusty iron pot and sword of Standish are more satisfying to the common run of us than the shaft they are building on Captain's Hill to his memory. They, 262 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. at least, link us to the personality of the man. And with a sigh that it was so — for I had hoped otlierwise — I was obliged to admit that Old Plymouth had been rubbed out, and that I was too late by a century at least to realize my ideal. The most impressive thing about Plymouth is its quiet ; though I would not have the reader think it deserted. There are workshops and factories, but I did not suspect their vicin- ity. Even the railway train slips furtively in and out, as if its rum- bling might awaken the slumbering old sea- port. Although the foundation of a com- monwealth, the town, as we see, has not be- come one of the cen- tres of traffic. It has . ■, x^ ■ TT o 1 . TTii D ™ ^u T. 1 A -nr ^^ , sharcd thc fate of Sa- A, Joanna Davis House — Cole 8 Hill ; B, Plymouth Eock and Wells's Store; C, Uuiversalist Chnich ; A Fii-st Church; ^, Church of the Pil- lem, in having itS COm- grimage; i^, Post-offlce— Site of Governor Bradford's House: (?, Sam- Tnevciol ni'irrow SUckcd uel D.Holmes's House— Site of Common House; //, Town Square; /, Town-house ; J, Court-house Square. OUt by a metropolis " Op- 1, Court Street; 2, North Street; 3, Middle Street; 4, Leyden Street; 5, nlcnt Cnlaro'cd and Still Main Street ; 6, Water Street ; 7, Market Street. . . .^ , . , increasing, leaVing the first-born of New England nothing but her glorious past, and the old fires still burning on her altars. Court Street is a pleasant and well-built thoroughfare. It runs along the base of three of the hills on whose slopes the town lies, taking at length the name of Main, which it exchanges again beyond the tov/n square for Market Street. If you follow Court Street northwardly, you will find it merging in a country road that will conduct yon to Kingston ; if you pursue it with your face to the south, you will in due time arrive at Sandwich, Trees, of which there is a variety, are the glory of Court Street. I saw in some streets mag- nificent lindens, horse-chestnuts, and elms branching quite across them; and in the areas such early flowering shrubs as forsythia-, spiraea, pyrus japonica, and lilac. PLYMOUTH. 263 Many houses are old, but there are none left of the originals; nor any so peculiar as to demand description. On some of the most venerable the chim- neys are masterpieces of masonry, showing curious designs, or, in some in- stances, a stack of angular projections. The chimney of Governor Bradford's house is said to have been furnished with a sun-dial. PILGRIM HALL. Pnrsning your way along Court Street, you will first reach Pilgrim Hall, a structure of rough granite, in the style of a Greek temple, the prevailing taste in New England fifty years ago for all public and even for private buildings. Within are collected many souvenirs of the Pilgrims, and of the tribes inhabiting the Old Colony. Lying in the grass-plot before the hall is a frag- ment of Forefathers' Rock, surrounded by a circular iron fence, and labeled in figures occupying the larger part of its surface, with the date of 1620. In this place it be- came nothing but a vulgar stone. I did not feel my pulses at all quickened on be- holding it. One end of the hall is occupied by the well-known painting of the "Landing of the Pilgrims," by Sargent. To height- en the effect, the artist has introduced an Indian in the foreground, an historic anachronism. A tall, soldierly figure is designated as Miles Standish, who is reported as being short, and scarce manly in appearance. The canvas is of large size, and the grouping does not lack merit, but its interest is made to bkewstek's chest, and stanuisu's pot. 264 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. depend on the figures of Governor Carver and of Samoset, in the foreground — both larger than life. We do not recognize, in the crouching attitude of the Indian, the erect and dauntless Samoset portrayed by Mourt, Bradford, and Winslow. This painting, which must have cost the artist great labor, was generously presented to the Pilgrim Society. I have seen a painting of the "Landing" in which a boat is represented approaching the shore, filled with soldiers in red coats.* The late Professor Morse also made it the subject of his pencil. LANDING OF TUE PILGRIMS, FKOM SARGENT' S PAINTING. There are on the walls portraits of Governor Edward Winslow, Governor Josiah Winslow and wife, and of General John Winslow, all copies of origi- nals in the gallery of the Massachusetts Historical Society. The original of Edward Winslow is believed to be a Vandyke. There is also a portrait of Hon. John Trumbull, presented by Colonel John, the painter.'' ' In possession of New England Historic Genealogical Society, Boston. It is by Come', a ma- rine painter of some repute in his day. '^ Other portraits are of Dr. James Thacher, by Frothingham, and of John Alden, great-grand- son of John, of the Mayflower, who died at the great age of one hundred and two years. He was of Middleborough. Dr. Thacher, a surgeon of the old Continental army, deserves more space than I am able to give him. He has embodied a great deal of Revolutionary history, in a very interest- ing way, in his ' ' Military Journal, " having been present at the principal battles. PLYMOUTH. 265 The cabinets contain many interesting memorials of the first settlers, their arras, implements, household furniture, and apparel. I refer the reader to the cakver's chair. BREWSTER S CHAIR. MINCING-KNIFE. guide-books for an enumeration of them. The chairs of Governor Carver and of Elder Brewster are good specimens of the uncomfortable yet quaint fur- nishing of their time; as the capacious iron pots, pewter platters, and wooden trenchers are suggestive of a primi- tive people, whose town was a camp. I fancy there were few breakages among the dishes of these Pilgrims, for they were as hard as their owners; nor were there serious de- ductions to be made from the maids' wages on the day of reckoning. I confess I should have liked to see here, in- stead of the somewhat confusing jumble of articles pertaining to Pilgrim or Indian, an apartment exclusively de- voted to the household economy of the first- comers, with furniture suita- bly arranged, and the evidences of their frugal housewifery garnishing the walls. Many of the articles said to have been brought over in the Mayfloxcer are doubtless authentic, but the num- ber of objects still existing and claim- ing some part of the immortality of that little bark would freight an India- man of good tonnage. There is a still pretty sampler, embroidered by the spider fingers of a Puritan maiden, with a sentiment worth the copying by any fiiir damsel in the land : PEREGRINE WHITE'S CABINET. 2t)6 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. And liere "Lorea Standish is my name. Lord, guide my hart that I may doe thy will ; Also fill my hands with such convenient skill As may conduce to virtue void of shame ; And I will give the glory to thy name." is the carnal weapon of Miles Standish, the living swovd-blado of the colony. It lacks not much of an English ell from liilt to point, and looks still able to push its way in the world if well grasped. The weapon has a brass cross and guard, and resembles those trenchant Florentine blades of the sixteenth century, with its channels, curved point, and fine temper. The sword figures in Mr, Longfellow's "Courtship of Miles Standish," where we may hear it clank at the captain's heels as he goes from his wrathful interview with John Alden, slamming the door after him, no doubt, like the tempestuous little tea-pot he was. The inscription on the blade has baffled the sava?is. For such a hot-tempered captain it should have been that engraved on the Earl of Shrewsbury's sword, "I am Talbot's, for to slay his foes." It could hardly have been this legend, with a point inscribed on a broadsword of the seventeenth century: ' ' Qui gladio ferit Gladio peril. " STANDISU'S SWORD. Speaking of swords, I am reminded that the first duel in New England was at Plymouth, in the year 1621, It was between Edward Doty or Doten, and Edward Leister, servants of Steven Hopkins, They fought with sword and dagger, like their betters, and were both wounded. Having no statute against the oiFense, the Pilgrims met in council to determine on the punishment. It was exemplary. The parties were ordered to be tied together, hand and foot, and to reinain twenty-four hours without food or drink. The intercession of tlieir master and their own entreaties procured their release before the sentence was car- ried out. In the front of the court-house is a mural tablet, with the seal of the Old Colony sculptured in relief The quarterings of the shield represent four kneeling figures, having each a flaming heart in its hands. On one side of the figures is a small tree, indicative, I suppose, of the infant growth of the plantation. The attitude and semi-nude appearance indicate an Indian, the subsequent device of Massachusetts, and are at once significant of his sub- jection, hearty welcome, and ultimate loyalty. The colony seal is said to PLYMOUTH. 267 THE OLD COLONY SEAL. liave been abstracted from the archives in Andros's time, and never recovered.* Its legend was "Plimovth Nov-Anglia, Sigillvni Societatis," with the date of 1620 above the sliieUi. The union witli Mas- sachusetts, in 1092, dispensed with tlie neces- sity for a separate seal. I saw, in the office of the Register, the records of the First Church of Plymouth, begun and continued by Nathaniel Morton to 1680. The court records, as well as the ancient charter, on which the ink is so laded as to be scarcely legible, are careful- ly kept. But the compact, that august instru- ment, I did not see, nor is the fate of the original known. Its language bears an ex- traordinary similitude to the preamble of the Constitution of the United States, in its spirit and idea. The name of the king is there in good set phrase; but the soul of the thing is its assumption of sovereignty in the people. See now how King James figures at the head and the tail of it, and then look into the heart of the matter: "In y'' name of God, Amen. We whose names are underwritten, the loyall subjects of our dread soveraigne Lord, King James, by y^ grace of God, of Great Britaine, Franc, & Irehmd, King, defender of y'^ faith, &c., haveing undertaken, for y« glorie of God and advancemente of y^ Chris- tian faith and honour of our king & countrie, a voyage to phint y^ first colonic in y<' Northerne parts of Virginia, doe by these presents solemnly & mutualy in y^ presence of God, and one of an- other, covenant and combine our selves togeather in a civill body politick, for our better ordering & preservation & furtherance of y^ ends aforesaid; and by vertne hearof to enacte, constitute, and frame such just & equall lawes, ordinances, acts, constitutions & offices, from time to time, as shall be thought most meete & convenent for y^ generall good of y^ Colonie, unto wliich we promise all due submission and obedience. In witnes wherof we have hereunder subscribed our names at Cap-Codd y" 11 of November, in y^ year of y^ raigne of our soveraigne lord, King James of En- gland, Franc, & Ireland y« eighteenth & of Scotland y« fiftie fourth. An": Dom. 1G20." Bradford says the bond was partly due to the mutinous spirit of some of the strangers on board the Mayfloxmr, and partly to the belief that such an act might be as firm as any patent, and in some respects more sure. It is impossible not to be interested in the lives of such men ; thej'- were deeply in earnest. In 1680 the first public execution took place in Plymouth. The culprit was John Billington, who, as Bradford wrote home to England, was a knave, and so would live and die, Billington had waylaid and shot one of the town,* and was adjudged guilty of murder. The colon}^ patent could not confer a power it did not itself possess to inflict the death penalty, so they took coun- ' "Pilgrim Memorial." " John Newcomen. 268 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. sel of their friends just come into Massachusetts Bay, and were advised to "purge the land of blood." In 1658, the crime of adultery appears to be first noticed in the laws. The punishment of this offense was two whippings, the persons convicted to wear two capital letters "A. D." cut in cloth and sewed on their uppermost garment, on their arm or back; if they removed the letters, they were again to be publicly whijjped. Another law, that would bear rather hardly on the present generation, was as follows : Any persons " who behaved themselves profanely by being without doors at the meeting-houses on the Lord's day, in time of exercise, and there misdemeaning themselves by jestings, sleepings, or the like," were first to be admonished, and if they did not refrain, set in the stocks ; and if still unreclaimed, cited before the court. Josselyn, writing of the old "Body of Laws of 1646," says, "Scolds they gag and set them at their doors for certain hours, for all comers and goers by to gaze at." And here is material for the " Scarlet Letter :" "An English woman suflfering an Ladian to have carnal knowledge of her was obliged to wear an Lidian cut out of red cloth sewed upon her right arm, and worn twelve months." Swearing was punished by boring through the tongue with a hot iron; adultery with death. The chronicles of the Pilgrims have undergone many strange vicissitudes, but are fortunately quite full and complete. It would be pleasant to know more of their lives during their first year at Plymouth than is given by Brad- ford or Morton. Governor Bradford's manuscript history of Plymouth plan- tation was probably purloined form the New England Library deposited in the Old South Church of Boston, during the siege of 1775. It found its way to the Fulham Library in England, was discovered, and a copy made which has since been printed, after remaining in manuscript more than two hundred years. The letter-book of Governor Bradford has a similar history. It was rescued from a grocer's shop in Halifax, after the destruction of half its in- valuable contents. The next best thing to be done is probably to go at once to the top of Burial Hill, which is here what the Hoe is to English Plymouth. Here, at least, are plenty of memorials of the Pilgrims, and here town and harbor are outspread for perusal. Seen at full tide, the harbor appears a goodly port enough, but it is left as bare by the ebb as if the sea had been commanded to remove and become dry land. Nothing except a broad expanse of sand- bars and mussel shoals, with luxuriant growth of eel-grass, meets the eye. Through these a narrow and devious channel makes its way. The bay, how- ever, could not be called tame with two such landmarks as Captain's Hill on Duxbury side, and the promontory of Manomet on the shoulder of the Cape. Plymouth Bay is formed by the jutting-out of Manomet on the south, and by the long-attenuated strip of sand known as Duxbury Beach, on the north. PLYMOUTH. 2G9 jnjipof PLYIVIOUTH 2\fclti jperlncTi Tliis beach terminates in a smaller pattern of the cel- ebrated Italian boot that looks equally ready to play at foot -ball with Sicily or to kick intruders out of the Mediterranean. The heel of the boot is toward the sea, and called The Gurnet ; the toe points landward, and is called Saquish Head. Just within the toe of the boot is Clark's Island, named from the master's mate of the Mayflower; then comes Cap- tain's Hill, making, with the beach, Duxbury Harbor; and in the farthest reach of the bay to the westward is Kingston, where a little water-course, called after the master of the Mayflower^ makes up into the land. In the southern board Cape Cod is seen on a clear day far out at sea; a mere sinning streak of white sand it appears at this distance. Plymouth harbor proper is formed by a long sand-spit parallel with the shore, that serves as a breakwater for the shallow roadstead. It is anchored where it is, for the winds would blow it away else, by wooden cribs on which the drifting sands are mounded ; and it is also tethered by beach-grass root- ed in the hillocks or downs that fringe the harbor-side. Now and then ex- tensive repairs are necessary to make good the ravages of a winter's sea-lash- ings, as many as six hundred tons of stone having been added to the break- water at the Point at one time. Brush is placed in the jetties, and thousands of roots of beach-grass are planted to catch and stay the shifting sands. The harbor is lighted at evening by twin lights on the Gurnet, and by a single one off Plymouth Beach. The latter is a caisson of iron rooted to the rock by a filling of concrete, and is washed on all sides by the waters of the harbor. Sand is everywhere ; the " stern and rock-bound coast " of Mrs. Hemans nowhere. Except one little cluster by the northern shore of the harbor, the Forefathers' is the only rock on which those pious men could have landed MAP OF PLYMOUTH BAY. ' Jones's River. 270 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. with dry feet. A few boulders, noticeably infrequent, are scattered along the beach as you approach from Kingston, The hills on which the town is built appear lean and emaciated, as if the light yellow earth with which they are furnished were a compromise between sand and soil. The gardens and house- plots, nevertheless, thrive if they have moisture enough. Few vessels were lying in the harbor, for Plymouth has at present little or no commerce ; yet of these, two small colliers were larger than the little Mayfloicer that car- ried a greater than Caesar and his fortunes.' The Pilgrims brought the name of their settlement along with them, though Captain John Smith gives it first the Indian name of Accomack, changed by Prince Charles to Plimouth, as it appears on the map accom- panying "Advertisements for the Unexperienced." The port was, however, earlier known to both French and English. Samoset told the Pilgrims, at his first interview M'ith them, the Indian name was Patuxet.^ Prince, in- deed, assigns a date (December 31st) for the formal assumption of the En- glish name.^ Plymouth, England, from which the Pilgrims finally set sail on the 6th of September, 1019, is situated at the extreme north-west corner of Devonshire, and is divided from Cornwall only by the river Tamar, The name has no other significance than the mouth. of the y'wqy Plym. Exmouth and Dart- mouth have the like derivation. Plymouth was long the residence of Sir Francis Drake, and was the birthplace of Sir John Hawkins; also of the paint- ers Northcote, Prout, and B. Ilaydon. Captain John Davis, the intrepid nav- igator, and Sir Humphrey Gilbert, who. Queen Elizabeth said, was a " man of noe good happ by sea," were also of Devonshire. It is of the two rivers upon which the "Three Towns" stand that old Michael Drayton writes: "Plym that claims by riglit The chiistening of tliat Bay, which bears her noble name." In sjjite of historic antecedents, English Plymouth was distastefid to Lord Nelson, who says, in one of his letters to Lady Hamilton, "I hate Plymouth." American Plymouth should owe no grudge to his memory, for he did a very noble act to one of her townsmen. While cruising on our coast in the Albe- marle^ in 1782, Nelson captured a fishing schooner belonging to Plymouth. The cargo of the vessel constituted nearly the whole property of Captain Carver, the master, who had a large family at home anxiously awaiting his return. There being no oflicer on board the Albemarle acquainted with Boston Bay, Nelson ordered the master of the prize to act as pilot. He performed the service to the satisfaction of his captor, who requited him by giving him his vessel and cargo back again, with a certificate to prevent recapture by ' The Mayflower was only one hundred and eighty tons burden. * Mourt. ^ 1 do not find any exact authority for this. PLYMOUTH. 271 other Britis?! cruisers. Sir N", Harris Nicolas relates that Nelson accoinpaiiied this generous act with Avords equally generous: "You have rendered me, sir, a very essential service, and it is not the custom of English seamen to be ungrateful. In the name, therefore, and with the approbation of the officers of this ship, I return your schooner, and with it this eertiticate of your good conduct.' Farewell! and may God bless you." The choice of the site of Plymouth by the Pilgrims was due rather to the pressing necessities of their situation than to a well-considered determination. Arriving on our coast in the beginning of winter, after nearly six weeks passed in exploi-ations that enfeebled the hardiest among them, they found their pro- visions failing, while the increasing rigor of the season called for a speedy decision. As it was not their destination, so it may readily be conceived they were not prepared beforehand, with such knowledge of the coast as might now be most serviceable to them. Cheated by their captain, they had thrown away the valuable time spent in searching the barren cape for a harbor fit for settlement. Smith, in his egotism, administers a rebuke to them in this wise : Yet at the first landing at Ca^Je Cod, being an hundred passengers, be- sides twenty they had left behind at Plbnouth for want of good take heed, thinking to find all things better than I advised them, spent six or seven weeks in wandering up and downe in frost and snow, wind and raine, among the v/oods, cricks, and swamps, forty of them died, and three-score were left in a most miserable estate at New Plimonth, where their ship left them, and but nine leagues by sea from where they landed, whose misery and variable opin- ions, for want of experience, occasioned much faction, till necessity agreed them." It is not easily understood why they should have remained in so unprom- ising a location after a better knowledge of the country had been obtained. To the north was Massachusetts, called by Smith "the paradise of those parts." South-west of them was the fertile Narraganset country, with fair Aquidneck within their patent. In thirteen or fourteen years the whole of Plymouth colony would not have made one populous town. But there are indications that a removal was kept in view. Their brethren in Leyden, who saw the hand of God in their first choice, advised them not to abandon it. In 1633 they established a trading-house on the Connecticut, and when afterward dispossessed by Massachusetts, alleged as a reason for holding a post there that "they lived upon a barren place, where they were by necessi- ty cast, and neither they nor theirs could long continue upon the same, and why should they be deprived of that which they had provided and intended ' "This is to certify that I took the schooner Harmony, Nathaniel Carver, master, belonging to I'ljmonth, but, on account of liis good services, have given him up his vessel again. "Horatio Nllson. "Dated ou board H. M. ship Albcmatic, ITtli Au^jiist, 1TS2." 272 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. to remove to as soon as they were able?'" Yet, like fatalists they continued on the very shores to which Providence had directed them. When the Pilgrims explored the bay, they were at first undetermined whether to make choice of Clark's Island, the shores of the little river at Kingston, or the spot on the main-land which became their ultimate abode. The high ground of Plymouth shore, the "sweete brooke" under the hill-side, and the large tract of land ready cleared for their use, settled the question ; the high hill from which they might see Cape Cod, and withal very fit for a citadel, clenched their decision. It did not seem to occur to the Pilgrims that to pitch their residence in a place desolated by the visitation of God was at all ill-omened. In their cir- cuit of the bay they did not see an Indian or an Indian wigwam, though they met with traces of a former habitation. Added to the sadness and gloom of the landscape, the frozen earth, the bare and leafless trees, was a silence not alone of nature, but of death. The plague had cleared the way for them ; they built upon graves. This terrible forerunner of the English is alluded to by several of the old writers. It swept the coast from the Fresh Water River to the Penobscot, with a destructiveness like to that witnessed in London a few years later. Sir F. Gorges tells us that the Indians inhabiting the region round about the embouchure of the Saco were sorely afflicted with it, " so that the country was in a manner left void of inhabitants." Vines, Sir Ferdinando's agent, with his companions, slept in the cabins with those that died ; but, to their good for- tune, as the narrative quaintly sets forth, "not one of them ever felt their heads to ache while they stayed there." This Avas in the year 1616-'17. Levett says the Indians at "Aquamenticus" were all dead when he was there. Samoset explains, in his broken English, to the Pilgrims that the lawful occu- pants of Patuxet had, four years before, been swept away by an extraordi- nary plague. The Indians had never seen or heard of the disease before. Villages withered away when the blight fell upon them ; tribes were obliter- ated, and nations were reduced to tribes. Doubtless, this disaster had much to do Avith the peaceable settlement of Plymouth, Salem, and Boston. Had the Pilgrims been everywhere resisted, as at Nauset, they could hardly have planted their colony in Plymouth Bay. There was another cause to which the English owed their safety, as related to them by many aged Indians. A French ship had been cast away on Cape Cod. The crew succeeded in landing, but the Indians, less merciful than the sea, butchered all but three of them. Two were ransomed by Dernier, one of Sir F. Gorges's captains. The other remained with the savages, acquired their language, and died among them. Before his death he foretold that God Avas angry, and would destroy them, and give their heritage to a strange peo- * Governor Bradford's "History of Plymouth." PLYMOUTH. 273 pie. They derided him, and answered boastfully, they were so strong and nu- merous that the Manitou could not kill them all. Soon after the pestilence de- populated the country. Then came the Englishmen in their ships. The sav- ages assembled in a dark swamp, where their conjurors, with incantations last- ing several days, solemnly cursed the pale-faces, devoting them to destruction. Thus the English found safety in the superstitious awe of the natives. The story of the terrible plague is as yet unwritten. Governor Bradford says that when Winslow went to confer with Massasoit, he passed by numbers of unburied skulls and bones of those who had died. Captain Levett is corroborative of the Pilgrims' settled intention to de- part from their original place of settlement. He observes in his "Voyage into New England :" " Neither was I at New Plymouth, but I fear that place is not so good as many others; for if it were, in my conceit, they would con- tent themselves with it, and not seek for any other, having ten times so much ground as would serve ten times so many people as they have now among them. But it seems they have no fish to make benefit of; for this year they had one ship fish at Pemaquid, and another at Cape Ann, where they have be- gun a new plantation, but how long it will continue I know not." It is evident from the testimony that the settlement at Plymouth was ill- considered, and that the Pilgrims were themselves far from satisfied with it. In this, too, we have the solution of the rapid overshadowing of the Old Col- ony by its neighbors, and the fading away of its j)olitical and commercial im- portance. There is no manner of doubt that Plymouth had been visited by whites long before the advent of the Mayfloioer' s band. Hutchinson erroneously says De Monts "did not go into the Massachusetts bay, but struck over from some part of the eastern shore to Cape Ann, and so to Cape Cod, and sailed farther southward." Definite is this ! It was the object of De Monts to examine the coast, and his pilot seems to have kept in with it as closely as possible, making a harbor every night where one was to be found. The Indian pilot proved to have little knowl- edge of the shores or of the language of the tribes to the westward of the Saco; for on being confronted with the natives of the Massachusetts country, he was not able to understand them. Gorges recounts that his natives from Pemaquid and from Martha's Vineyard at- first hardly comprehended each other. Hutchinson, it is probable, saw the edition of "Champlain's Voyages" of 1632, contenting himself with a cursory examination of it. An attentive reading of the text of the edition of 1613 would have undeceived him as to the movements of De Monts. Although the reprint of 1632 gives the sub- stance of the voyage, it is so mutilated in its details as to afford scanty satis- faction to the student. After leaving Cape Ann, De Monts entered Boston Bay and saw Charles 18 274 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. River, named by his company "Riviere dn Gas," in compliment to their chief. From thence they continued their route to a place that has for the moment a j^reater interest. Given the latitude, the physical features, and the distance from Cape Ann, we are at no loss to put the finger on Plymouth Bay, of which the o:eographer of the expedition is the first to give us a description. The wind coming contrary, they dropped anchor in a little roadstead.' While lying there they were boarded by canoes that had been out fishing for cod. These, going to shore, notified their companions, who assembled on the sands, dancing and gesticulating in token of amity and welcome. A canoe from the bark landed with a few trifles with which the simple natives were well pleased, and begged their strange visitors to come and visit them with- in their river. The man-stealers had not yet been among them. They offer- ed a simple but sincere hospitality. CUAMPLAIN'S map. — PORT CAPE ST. LOUIS. Let us have recourse to the musty pages and antiquated French of Cham- plain, following in the wake of the bark as it weathers the Gurnet, and dou- bles Saquish, with the cheery cry of the leadsman, and the eyes of De Mouts, Champlain, and Champdore fixed on the shores of coming renown : " Nous levames Tancre pour ce faire, mais nous n'y peusmes entrer a cause du peu d'eau que nous y trouvames estans de basse mer et fumes contiainctes de mouiller I'ancre a I'entree d'icelle. Je decendis a terra ou j'eu vis quantite d'autres qui nous re9eurent fort gratieusement : et fus recognoistre la riviere, ou n'y a vey autre chose qu'un bras d'eau qui s'estant quelque peu Green's Harbor, perhaps. PLYMOUTH. 215 dans les terres qui font en partie desertees : dedans Icquel il n'y a qu'un ruisseau qui ne peut porter basteaux sinon de pleine mer. Ce lieu peut avoir une lieue de circuit. En I'une des en- trees duquel y a une maniere d'icelle couverte de bois et principalement de pins qui tient d'un coste a des dunes de sable, qui font assez longues : I'autre coste est une terre asscz haute. II y a deu.x islets dans lad. Baye, qu'on ne voit point si Ton n'est dedans, ou autour la mer asseche presque toute de basse mer. Ce lieu est fort remarquable de la mer ; d'autant que la coste est fort basse, hormis le cap de I'entree de la Baye qu'avons nomme le port du cap St. Louys distant dud. cap deu.x lieues et di.x du Cap aux Isles. II est environ par le hauteur du Cap St. Louys." TRANSLATION. ' We raised the anchor to do this, but we could not enter therein by reason of the little water which we found there, being low sea, and were constrained to let go the anchor at the entrance of it. I went ashore, where I saw numbers of natives who received us very graciously, and surveved the river, which is nothing more than an arm of water that makes a little way in the lands which are in part deserted, within which it is only a rivulet that can not float vessels except at full sea. This place may be a league in circuit. At one of the entrances is a sort of island, which is covered with wood, principally pines, which holds to a coast of sandy downs of some length ; the other shore is pretty high land. There are two isles in the said Bay which are not perceived until you are within, which the sea leaves almost entirely at low tide. This place is very remarkable from the sea, inasmuch as the coast is very low, except the cape at the entrance of the Bay, which we have named Port Cape St. Louis, distant from the said Cape two leagues, and ten from the Cape of Islands. It is about the latitude of Cape St. Louis.'^ In this description the Gnrnet and Manomet stand out for easy recoo"ni- tion. The sandy downs of Duxbury Beach, tlie shallow harbor, the river, even the soundings establish the identity of Port St. Louis with Plymouth ; and the two islands become further evidence, if more were needed. To account for the hostility of the Indians inhabiting the Cape when the Pilgrims were reconnoitring there, it is only necessary to cite a i'ew facts. Cabot stole three savages and carried them to England, where, says Stow, in ludicrous astonishment, after two years' residence they could not be told from Englishmen. In 1508, it is said, Thomas Aubert, a pilot of Dieppe, ex- cited great curiosity by bringing over several natives to France. Cartier took two back with him to France, but with their own consent ; and they were eventually, I believe, restored to their native country. Weymouth, in 1605, seized five at Pemaquid ; Harlow, in 1611, five more; and Hunt, the greatest thief of them all, kidnaped in this very harbor of Plymouth, in the year 1614, twenty-four of those silly savages, and sold them in Spain for reals of eight. After such treachery it is not strange the red men looked on these new-comers as their natural enemies. It is more extraordinary that Samoset, on entering their weak village some months after their landing, should have greeted them with the memorable " Welcome, Englishmen !" The Pilgrims saw in the evidences of prior intercourse with Europeans, that they w'ere not the pioneers in this wilderness of New England. They found ' Followed as literally as possible, to preserve the style. ' Named by De Monts, and supposed to be Brant Point. 276 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. implements and utensils of civilized manufacture, though no fire-arms. These articles were probably obtained by barter with the fishing or trading ships. On William Wood's map of 1634/ Old Plymouth is laid down on the eastern shore of Narraganset Bay, while New Plymouth has its proper posi- tion. " New Plimouth " is placed on Blauw's map at the head of a small bay, into which a large river flows. One of the headlands of the bay is named C. Blanco Gallis, and the bay itself Crane Bay. Josselyn has also this reference to Old Plymouth : "At the farther end of the bay, by the mouth of Narraganset River, on the south side thereof was Old Plymouth plantation. Anno 1602." He may have borrowed his itinerary in part from Wood, who, as I take it, re- ferred to Gosnold's attempt at the mouth of Buzzard's Bay. In his sum- mary, under date of 1607, Josselyn notes, " Plimouth plantation in New En- gland attempted." I spent some hours among the grave-stones on Burial Hill. Here, as in the streets of the living inhabitants, the old familiar names of the Mayflow- er's passengers are to be met with. And in every burial-place in the land, I make no doubt, are to be found Howlands and Winslows, Bradfords and Brewsters, side by side. I have felt myself much moved in thinking on the story of those stern men and self-contained, trustful women. Their whole lives might justly be called a pilgrimage. Consider their gathering in the Old England they loved so well ; then their dispersion, suffering, and hurried flight into Holland ; afterward the staking their all on the issue of their ven- ture in the New World, and the painful, anxious lives they led ; despoiling the young of their youth, and the elders of a peaceful old age. This spot, as is well known, was not the Pilgrims' original place of inter- ment. They who first died were buried on Cole's Hill, nearer the shore, and to the strait limits of their little hamlet. They lost one half their number during the first dismal winter, and there was room enough without going far to make their graves. Tradition says that, fearing their wretchedness might inspire the Indians with the hope of exterminating them, those early graves were first leveled and then planted upon in order to conceal their losses. It is said that sixty years elapsed before a grave-stone with an inscription was set up in Plymouth ; certain it is that none older has been found than that of Edward Gray, merchant, who died in 1681. The obliterated grave-yard on Cole's Hill, which was nothing more than a sea-blufi" overhanging the shore, was flooded by a freshet about 1735, laying bare many of the graves, and carrying along with it to the sea many of the remains. It is the supposed resting-place of Carver, the first governor of Plymouth, and of his wife, who did not long survive him. It contained the ashes of fifty of the one hundred and two that had landed in December. In ' "The south part of New England, as it is planted this yeare, 1634." PLYMOUTH. 277 the time of the first winter's sickness, says Hutchinson, there were not above seven men capable of bearing arms. And yet, when they were almost too few to bury their own dead, they talked of war with Canonicus as if it were mere bagatelle, answering defiance with defiance. I fancy those Pilgrims were of the right stuff! On Burial Hill is a monument to the memory of Governor Bradford, who succeeded Carver, and was annually chosen from 1621 until his death, in 1657 —except during the years 1633, 1636, 1638, and 1644, when Edward Whislow, and in 1634, when Thomas Prencfe, administered the colony affairs. In sev- enty years there were only six different persons governors of Plymouth. Roger White, the friend of Bradford, writes him a letter from Leyden, Decem- ber, 1625, counseling rotation in oflice, more than hinting that the constant re-election of himself to the chief office in the colony tended to an oligarchy.' Bradford was among the earliest to go into Holland for conscience' sake. He was of good estate, and had learned the art of silk-dyeing in Amsterdam. His residence in the New World began in affliction, for, before a site for set- tlement had been fixed upon, his wife, Dorothy May, fell from the vessel into the sea and was drowned. His monument was erected, some years ago, by descendants. In a conspicuous position is the monument raised, in 1858, by the descend- ants of Robert Cushraan, and of Thomas Cushman, his son, for forty-three years ruling elder of the church of the Pilgrims. Of all the original memo- rial tablets in this old cemetery, those of Thomas Cushman, who came in 1621, in the Fortune, and of Thomas Clark, a passenger by the Ann, in 1623, alone were remaining. The grave of John Howland, an emigrant of the 3fayfloioer, has been identified, and furnished with a handsome head-stone. In some in- stances boards bearing simply the name and age of the deceased have re- placed the aged and no longer legible stones, as in the cases of Elder Thomas Faunce, William Crowe, and others. The stone of Thomas Clark was the most curious I saw, and in general the inscriptions do not possess other in- terest than the recollections they summon up. The grave of Dr. Adoniram Judson is also here. Burial Hill is also memorable as the site of the second'' regular church ed- ifice in New England, built to serve the double pui-pose of church and citadel. From this cause the eminence was long called Fort Hill. By February, 1621, after the defiance of Canonicus, the town was inclosed within a palisade, tak- ing in the top of the hill under which it was situated. In 1622 the colonists built their church-fortress; it should have been dedicated with Luther's an- them : * "Collections of the Massachusetts Historical Society." " See Popham's settlement on the Kennebec ; the Episcopal service was doubtless the first religious exercise in New England. 278 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. "God is a castle and defense, When troubles and distress invade, He'll help and free us from offense, And ever shield us with his aid." Evei" willing to turn an honest penny, the Dutch, in 1627, opened a corre- spondence between Fort Amsterdam and Plymouth, with otters of trade. They followed it with an embassy in the person of Isaac de Rasieres, who, says Bradford, was their chief merchant, and second to their governor. He came into Plymouth " honorably attended with a noise of trumpeters." It is in a letter of De Rasieres, found at The Hague by Mr. Brodhead, that we obtain a circumstantial account of town and fortress as they then existed. "Upon the hill," he writes, "they have a large, square house, with a flat roof, made of thick sawn planks, stayed with oak beams, upon the top of which they have six cannons, which shoot iron balls of four and five pounds, and command the surrounding country. The lower part they use for their church, where they preach on Sundays and the usual holidays."' A looker-on here in 1807 found in this burying-ground and on the summit of the hill the remains of the ditch that surrounded the ancient fortification erected in 1675, on the approach of Philip's war. This was a work of great- er magnitude than that of the first adventurers, inclosing a space one hundred feet square, strongly palisaded with pickets ten and a half feet high. As late as 1844 the whole circuit of this work was distinctly visible.^ The head of Wittuwamet, one of the chiefs killed by Standish's party at Weymouth in 1623, was set up on the battlements of the fort, as was afterward that of the renowned King Philip. The vaunting, the exasperating mockery of a savage, is in these lines : "'Who is there here to fight with the brave Wattawamat ?' Then he unsheathed his knife, and, whetting the blade on his left hand, Held it aloft and displayed a woman's face on the handle, Saying, with bitter expression and look of sinister meaning, ' I have another at home, with the face of a man on the handle ; By-and-by they shall marry; and there will be plenty of children.'" According to Edward Winslow, the English stood to their guns when Indians came among them. To allay distrust in the minds of the savages, they were told it was an act of courtesy observed by the English, both on ' Captain John Smith, speaking of the town in 1624, says of this fortress, there was "within a high mount a fort, with a watch-tower, well built of stone, lome, and wood, their ordnance well mounted." ^ During some excavations made on the hill, remains of the watch-tower of brick came to light, indicating its position to have been in the vicinity of the Judson monument. There also existed on the hill, until about 1800, a powder-house of antique fiishion, built in 1770. It had an oval slab of slate imbedded in the wall, with a Latin inscription ; and there were also engraved upon it a powder-horn, cartridge, and a cannon. — " Pilgrim Memorial." PLYMOUTH. 279 land and sea. The sentinel who paced his lonely round liere in 1622 should liave had steady nerves. The nearest outpost was his fellow-watcher on the ramparts of Fort Amsterdam. He could liardly pass the word on "All's well !" to Jamestown or Saint Augustine, or hear the challenge from Port Royal, in Acadia. Behind him was the wilderness, out of which it was a wonder the Indians did not burst, it was so easy to overwhelm the devoted little band of Englishmen and brush them away into the sea. I make no ac- count of the few scattered cabins along the northern coast, and the Pilgrims made no account of them. Thus they lived for ten years within the narrow limits of an intrenched camp, a picket lodged within an enemy's country, un- til the settlement in Massachusetts Bay enabled them to draw breath. Why might they not say to those after-comers, "We are the Jason s ; we have won the fleece?" The procession of the Pilgrims to their church was a sight that must have exceedingly stirred the sluggish blood of the Dutch emissary. He found them attentive to proffers of trade ; acute, as might be expected of the first Yankees, where profits were in question ; but there was no doubt about the quality of their piety. At the hour of worship the silent village was assembled by drum-beat, as was befitting in the Church Militant. At this signal the house-doors open and give passage to each family. The men wear their sad- colored mantles, and are armed to the teeth, as if going to battle. Silently they take their places in front of the captain's door, three abreast, with match- locks shouldered. The tall, stern-visaged ones, we may suppose, lead the rest. In front is the sergeant. Behind the armed men comes Bradford, in a long robe. At his right hand is Elder Brewster, with his cloak on. At the gov- ernor's left marches Miles Standish, his rapier lifting up the corner of his mantle, and carrying a small cane in his hand. The women in sober gowns, kerchiefs, and hoods, their garments poor, but scrupulously neat, follow next; the lowlier yielding precedence to those of better condition. At command, they take their way up the hill in this order, and, entering within the rude temple they have raised, each man sets down his musket where he may lay hand upon it. "Thus," says De Rasieres, "they are on their guard night and day." Thomas Lechford, " of Clement's Inn, Gent," in his "Plain Dealing," says he once looked in the church-door in Boston where the sacrament was being administered. He thus noted down what he saw : " They come together about nine o'clock by ringing of a bell. Pastor prayed for a quarter of an hour. The teacher then readeth and expoundeth a chapter; then a psalm is sung, which one of the ruling Elders dictates. Afterward the ])astor preaches a sermon, or exhorts ex tempore.'''' This is the way in which they made contributions: "On Sundays, in the afternoon, when the sermon is ended, the people in the galleries come down 280 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. and march two abreast up one aisle and down the other, until they come be- fore the desk, for pulpit they have none. Before the desk is a long pue where the elders and deacons sit, one of them with a money-box in his hand, into which the people, as they pass, put their offering, some a shill, some 2s., some half a crown, five s,, according to their ability. Then they conclude with a prayer." Lechford adds that the congregation used to pass up by the deacon's seat, giving either money, or valuable articles, or paper promises to pay, and so to their seats again, the chief men or magistrates first. The same author de- scribes the method of excommunication practiced in some of the New En- gland churches. "At New Haven, alias Quinapeag," he says, " where Master Davenport is pastor, the excommunicate is held out of the meeting, at the doore, if he will heare, in frost, snow, and raine." The Pilgrims are often called Puritans, a term of reproach first applied to the whole body of Dissenters, but in their day belonging strictly to those who renounced the forms and ceremonies while believing in the doctrines and sac- raments of the Church of England. Boston was settled by Puritans, who, ac- cording to Governor Winthrop, adhered to the mother-church when they left Old England. It is curious to observe that the Boston Puritans became rig- id Separatists, while the Plymouth Separatists became more and more mod- erate. The Pilgrims were originally of the sect called Brownists, from Rob- ert Brown, a school-master in Southwark about 1580, and a relation of Ceci^ Lord Burghley.* Cardinal Bentivoglio erroneously calls the Holland refu- gees a distinct sect by the name of Puritans. Hutchinson, usually well in- formed, observes, "If all in England who called themselves Brownists and In- dependents at that day had come over with them (the Pilgrims), they would scarcely have made one considerable town." Yet in 1592 there were said to be twenty thousand Independents in England. The Church of the Pilgrims, formed, in 1602, of people living on the bor- ders of Nottinghamshire, Lincolnshire, and Yorkshire, made their way, after innumerable difliculties, into Holland. Their pastor, John Robinson, is usu- ally regarded as the author of Independency. A residence on the scene of the Reformation softened, in many respects, the inflexible religious character of the Brownists. They discarded the name rendered odious on many ac- counts. It is stated, on the authority of Edward Winslow, that Robinson and his Church did not require renunciation of the Church of England, acknowl- edging the other reformed churches, and allowiuQ- occasional communion with ' Robert Brown, the founder of the sect, after thirty-two imprisonments, eventually conformed. Henry Penay, Henry Barrow, and other Brownists, were cruelly executed for alleged sedition. May 29tb, 1593. Elizabeth's celebrated Act of 1593 visited a refusal to make a declaration of conform- ity with the Church of England with banishment and forfeiture of citizenship ; death if the offender returned into the realm. PLYMOUTH. 281 them. It is also evident from what Bradford says that the Pilgrims chose the Huguenots as their models in Church affairs/ Both in regard to civil and ecclesiastical aifairs the Pilgrims were placed in a situation of serious difficulty. The King of England promised not to in- terfere with them in religious matters, but would not acknowledge them by any public act under his hand and seal. Some of the most influential of the company of English merchants, by whom they were transported to New En- gland, did not sympathize with them in their religious views, and at length broke off from them, and left them to struggle on alone as best they might. This is apparent in the plan to prevent the remnant of the Church of Leyden from coming over. It is also clear that neither the motives nor the intentions of the Pilgrims were well understood by the adventurers at the outset, and that as soon as these were fully developed, the merchants, or a majority of them, preferred to augment their colony with a more pliant and less obnox- ious class of emigrants than the first-comers had proved. In examining the charges and complaints of the one, and the explanations of the other, it is difficult to avoid the conclusion that a good deal of duplicity was nsed by the Pilgrims to keep the breath of life in their infant plantation. It appears that the settlers in Massachusetts Bay were not acquainted with the form of worship practiced by the Pilgrims, as Endicott writes to Governor Bradford from "Naumkeak, May 11th, 1629: I acknowledge myself much bound to you for your kind love and care in sending Mr. Fuller among us, and rejoice much that I am by him satisfied touching your judgments of the outward form of God's worship; it is (as far as I can yet gather) no other than is warranted by the evidence of truth, and the same which I have pro- fessed and maintained ever since the Lord in his mercy revealed himself unto me, being far differing from the common reports that hath been spread of you touching that particular."^ I have thought it worth mentioning that the church at Salem was the first completely organized Congregational church in America. It was gath- ered August 6th, 1629, when Rev. Mr. Higginson was ordained teacher, and Mr. Skelton pastor." Governor Bradford and others deputed from the church at Plymouth, coming into the assembly in the hour of the solemnity, gave them the right hand of fellowship. Robinson never having come over, Plym- outh was without a pastor for some years. ' Sir Matthew Hale used to say, "Those of the Separation were good men, but tliey had nar- row souls, or they would not break the peace of the Church about such inconsiderable matters as the points of difference were." In this country the Independents took the name of Congregation- alists. They held, among other things, that one church may advise or reprove another, but had no power to excommunicate. The churches outside of Plymouth did, however, practice excommu- nication. * Governor Bradford's Letter-book. ' The teacher explained doctrines ; the pastor enforced them by suitable exhortations. 282 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. Under Charles I. the Pilgrims fared little better than in the preceding reign ; but they had seated themselves firmly by the period of the Civil War. On the day before liis arrival at Shrewsbury, the king caused the military orders to be read at the head of each regiment. Then, mounting his horse, and placing himself in the midst, where all might hear, he made a speech to his soldiers, in which this passage occurs: " Gentlemen, you have heard these orders read ; it is your part, in your severall places, to observe them exactly I can not suspect your Courage and Resolution ; your Conscience and your Loyalty hath brought you hither to fight for your Religion, your King, and the Laws of the Land ; you shall fight with no Enemies, but Traitours, most of them Brownists, Anabaptists, and Atheists, such who desire to destroy both Church and State, and who have already condemned you to ruin for being Loyall to vs." Here, then, were a handful of men repudiated by their king, cast ofi'by their commercial partners, a prey to the consequences of civil war at home, and liv- ing by sufiferance in the midst of a fierce and warlike people, compelled at last to work out their own political destiny. What wonder that with tliem self- preservation stood first, last, and always ! All other settlements in New En- gland were made with the hope of gain alone, few, if any, colonists meaning to make a permanent home in its wilds. We may not withliold the respect due to these Pilgrims, who were essentially a unit, embodying the germ of civil, political, and religious liberty. They beheld from the beach the vanish- ing sail of the Mayfloioer as men who had accepted what fate may bring to them. They did not mean to go back. THE pilgrims' FIUST ENCOUNTER. CHAPTER XVIII. PLYMOUTH, Clark's island, and duxbuky. "Ay, call it holy ground, The soil where first they trod ! They have left unstain'd what there they found — Freedom to worship God!" — Mrs. Hkmans. T ET us now take a walk in Leyden Street. Until 1802 the principal street -^-^ of the Pilgrims was without a name ; it was then proposed to give it the one it now so appropriately bears. In my descent of the hill into the town square, I passed under the shade of some magnificent elms just putting forth their spring buds. Some of those natural enemies of trees were talking of cutting down the noblest of them all, that has stood for nearly a hundred years, and long shaded Governor Bradford's house.' Consulting again our old guide, De Rasieres, I find he tells ns, " New Plymouth lies on the slope of a hill stretching east, toward the sea-coast, ' These trees are said to have been planted in 1783, by Thomas Davis. 284 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. BUILDING ON THE SITE OF liliADFOKD 8 MANSION. Avith a broad street about a cannon-shot of eight hundred [yards] long lead- ing down the hill; with a street crossing in the middle northward to the riv- ulet and southward to the land. The houses are con- structed of hewn planks, with gar- dens, also inclosed behind and at the sides with hewn planks ; so that their houses and court-yards are ar- ranged in very good order, with a stockade against a sudden attack ; and at the ends of the streets there are three wooden gates. In the centre, on the cross-street, stands the governor's house, before which is a square inclosure, upon which four pateros [steenstucken] are mounted, so as to flank along the streets." We are standing, then, in the ancient place of arms of the Pilgrims. Nearest to us, on the north side of the square, is the site of Governor Brad- ford's house, with the Church of the Pilgrimage just beyond. The dwelling of the governor was long ago removed to the north part of the town, and this, its successor, does not fulfill our want, as the veritable habitation of the much-honoi*ed magistrate would do. Nearly opposite is the old county court- house, erected in 1749. Up at the head of this inclosed space, which long custom miscalls a square, is the First Church, its pinnacles appearing dimly through the interweaving branches of tall elms. There is a coolness as well as a repose about the spot that makes us loiter. After the tragic death of his first wife, Bradford bethought him of Mrs. Southworth, whom he had known and wooed in old England as Alice Carpen- ter. She was now a widow. He renewed his suit, and she hearkened to hira. But as the governor could not leave his magistracy, the lady, ceding her woman's rights, took ship, and came to Plymouth in August, 1623. In a fortnight they were married. Bradford tells how the passengers of the ship Ann, of whom Mistress Southworth was one, were aiFected by what they saw when they first set foot in Plymouth. They were met by a band of haggard men and women, meanly appareled, and in some cases little better than half-naked. The best PLYMOUTH, CLAKK'S ISLAND, AND DUXBURY. 285 dish they could set before their friends was a lobster or piece offish, without other drink than a cuj) of water. Some of the newly arrived fell weepinf^ ; others wished themselves in England again, while even the joy of meeting friends from whom they had long been separated could not dispel the sad- ness of others in beholding their miserable condition. The governor has not told us of the coming of Alice South worth, but says simply there were "some very useful persons " on board the ship Ann. Here the governor entertained Pere Gabriel Dreuillettes, in 1650, Avith a fish dinner, because, says the good old Jesuit, it was a Friday. The govern- or was equal to the courtesy ; yet, I fancy, fish dinners were often eaten in Plymouth. Bradford's second wife survived him thirteen years. With her came his brother-in-law, George Morton, her sister, Bridget Fuller,* and two daughters of Elder Brewster. Slie lived thirty years with her second husband, and, from the tribute of Nathaniel Morton,* must have been a woman of an exem- plary and beautiful character. Her sister, Mary Carpenter, lived to be nine- ty years old. She is referred to in the church records of Plymouth as " a godly old maid, never married." Apropos of the governor's wedding, I extract this notice of the first mar- riage in the colony from his history: "May 12th, 1621, was y*^ first marriage in this place, which, accoi'ding to y'^ laudable custome of y® Low Countries, was thought most requisite to be performed by the magistrate, as being a civill thing, upon which many questions aboute inheritance doe depende," etc. When Edward Winslow was in England as agent of the colony, and was interrogated at the instance of Laud, Archbishop of Canterbury, before the Lords Commissioners of the Plantations, he was, among other things, ques- tioned upon this practice of marriage by magistrates. He answered boldly that he found nothing in Scripture to restrict marriage to the clergy. He also alleged that the plantation had long been without a minister, and finish- ed by citing, as a precedent, his own marriage by a magistrate at the Staat- hems in Holland. Morton, who appeared as an accuser of Winslow, says, " The people of New England held the use of a ring in marriage to be a re- lique of popery, a diabolical circle for the Devell to daunce in." As soon as they had definitely settled upon a location, the colonists went to work building their town. They began to prepare timber as early as the 23d of December, but the inclemency of the season and the distance every thing was to be transported — there were no trees standing within an eighth of a mile of the present Leyden Street — made the work painfully laborious and the progress slow. On the twenty-eighth day the company was consoli- ' Wife of Samuel Fuller. She gave the church the lot of ground on whicli the parsonage stood. — Allen. " See Appendix to Bradford's History. 286 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. dated into nineteen families, the single men joining some household in order to lessen the number of houses to be built. They then staked out the ground, giving every person half a pole in breadth and three in length. Each head of a family chose his homestead by lot, and each man was requii*ed to build his owi) house. By Tuesday, the 9th of January, the Common House wanted nothing but the thatch to be complete; still, although it was only twenty feet square, the weather was so inclement that it took four days to cover it. They could seldom work half the week. Captain Smith says, in 1624, the town consisted of two-and-thirty houses and about a hundred and eighty jDcople. The Common House is believed to have stood on the south side of Leyden Street, where the abrupt descent of the hill be- gins. In digging a cellar on the spot, in 1801, sundry tools and a plate of iron were dis- covered, seven feet below the surface of the ground. This house is supposed to have served the colonists for every purpose of a public nature un- til the building of their for- tress on Burial Hill. Mourt calls it their rendezvous, and relates that a few days after completion it took fire from a spark in the thatch. At the time of the accident Governor Carver and William Bradford were lying sick within, with their muskets charged, and the thatch blazing above them, to their very great danger. In this Common House the working parties slept until their dwellings were made ready. It was worth living two hundred years ago to have witnessed one street scene that took place here. John Oldham, the contentious, the incorrigible, dared to return to Plymouth after banishment. He had, with Lyford, tried to breed a revolt among the disaftected of the colony. A rough and tough malignant was Oldham, fiercely denouncing the magistrates to their teeth when called to answer for his misdeeds. He defied them roundly in their o-rave assembly. Turning to the by-standers, he exclaimed : " My raaisters whar is your harts ? now show your courage, you have oft complained to me so and so; now is y*^ tyme if you Avill doe any thing, I will stand by you." He returned more choleric than before, calling those he met rebels and traitors, in his mad fury. They put him under guard until his wrath had time to cool, and set their invention to work. He was compelled to pass through a double file of musketeers, every one of whom " was ordered to give SITE OF THE COMMON HOUSE. PLYMOUTH, CLARK'S ISLAND, AND DUXBURY. 287 him a thump on y*^ brich, with y° but end of his musket," and was then con- veyed to the water-side, where a boat was in readiness to carry him away. They then bid liim go and mend liis manners. The idea of the gantlet was, I suspect, borrowed from the Indians. This little colony of pilgrims was at first a patriarchal community. Every thino- was in common. Each year an acre of land was allotted to every inhab- itant to cultivate. The complete failure of the experiment ought to stand for a precedent, though it seems somehow to have been forgotten. Men, they found, would not work for the common interest as for themselves, and so the idea of a community of dependents was abandoned for an association of inde- pendent fictors. From this time they began to get on. The rent-day did not trouble them. "We are all freeholders," writes Edward Hilton home to England. In 1626 the planters bought themselves free of the undertakers, who oppressed them with ruinous charges for every thing furnished the col- ony. Allerton, who Avas sent over in 1625 to beg the loan of one hundred pounds sterling, was obliged to pay thirty pounds in the hundred interest for the two hundred pounds he had obtained. In the year 1627 they divided all their stock into shares, giving each person, or share, twenty acres of land, besides the single acre already allotted. It is time to resume our walk down Leyden Street. On reaching the bluif before mentioned the street divides, one branch descending the decliv- ity toward the water, while the other skirts the hill-side. The Universalist Church at the corner marks the site of the Allyne House, an ancient dwell- ing demolish- ed about 1826. _i-*-5Si^.i#^fer:a!I_>-.= By the Plym- -. ^ s^rfwaao^^-^^ outh records, it " appears that, in 1699, Mr. Joseph Allyne married Mary Doten, daugh- ter of Edward, and grand- daughter of that Edward Doten who had come in the Mayflower. Among the children of Jo- seph Allyne born in the old the alltne douse. 288 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. liomestead was Mary, who became the mother of that " flame of fire," James Otis. The house commanded a fine view of the bay, its foundations being liigher than the chimneys in the streets below. It may not, perhaps, be gen- erally known that James Otis, after completing his studies in the ofiice of Jeremiah Gridley, then the most eminent lawyer in the j^rovince, came from Boston to Plymouth, where he took an ofiice in the main street. He practiced there during the years 1748-'49, when his talents called him to a broader field. Mercy, the sister of James Otis, married James Warren, a native of Plym- outh. He succeeded General Joseph Warren as president of the Provincial Congress of Massachusetts, but is better known as the author of the cele- brated "Committee of Correspondence," which he proposed to Samuel Adams while the latter was at his house. Mrs. Warren, at the age of seventy, was visited by the Duke De Liancourt. " She then retained," he says, "the activ- ity of mind which distinguished her as a sister of James Otis ; nor had she lost the graces of person or conversational powers, which made her still a charming companion," For reasons apparent to the reader, she resolved not to send her " History of the Revolution" to the press during her husband's lifetime. Going beyond the church, we come upon the open space of greenswai'd, inter- sected by footpaths, known as Cole's Hill. Some defensive works were erected on this bank in 1742, in the Revolution, and again in 1814. I have al- ready traversed it in imagination, when standing on the sum- mit of Burial Hill. It is no longer a place of graves, nor does it in the least suggest, by any monumental symbol, the tragedy of the Pilgrims' first winter here, when, as Bradford touchingly says, " Y* well were not in any measure sufficient to tend y* sicke ; nor the living scarce able to burie the dead." Their greatest strait was in May and June, when there were no wild fowl. Winslow says they were without good tackle or seines to take the fish that swam so abundantly in the harbor and creeks. COSSWG-"" THE JOANNA DAVI^ HOUSE, COLE'S HILL. PLYMOUTH, CLARK'S ISLAND, AND DUXBURY. 289 We may not disguise the fact. The least attractive object is tlie Rock of the Forefathers. Tlie stranger wlio comes prepared to do liomage to the spot the Pilgrims' feet first pressed, finds his sensibility stricken in a vital place. The insignificant appearance of the rock itself, buried out of sight beneath a shrine made with hands, and the separation of the sacred ledge into two fraw- raents, each of which claims a divided regard, give a death-blow to the emo- tions of awe and reverence with which he approaches this corner-stone of American history. Plymouth Rock, or rather what is left of it in its original position, is reached by following Water ;_ __ Street, which, as its name indi- "v cates, skirts the shore, conduct- ing you through a region once devoted to commerce, now apparently consigned to irre- trievable decay. Near Hedge's Wharf, and in close vicinity to the old Town Dock, is the ob- ject of our j^resent search. .\. canopy, designed by Billings, has been built above it. I entered. In the stone pavement is a cav- ity of perhaps two feet square, and underneath the uneven sur- face the rock appears. I had often wished to stand here, but now all enthusiasm was gone out of me. I had rather have contented myself with the small piece so long treasured, and with the loom of the rock as my imagination had beheld it, than to stand in the actual presence of it. By the building of street and wharf on a higher level the rock is now at some little distance from high- water mark.' At one time the sea had heaped the sand upon it to the depth of twenty feet, but the tradition of the spot had been well kept, and at the dawn of the Revolution the sand was cleared away, and the rock again laid bare. This was in 1774. In the attempt to re- move it from its bed it split asunder, the superstitious seeing in this accident- al fracture a presage of the division of the British empire in America. The upper half, or shell, of Forefathers' Rock was removed to the middle of the village, and placed at the end of a wall, where, along with vulgar stones, it PLYMOUTH KOCK IN 1850. ' In 1741, when it was proposed to build a whnrf near the rock, it was pointed out as tlie iden- tical landing-place of the Pilgrims by Elder Thomas Faunce, who, having been born in lG-46, had received the fact from the original settlers. 19 290 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. propped the embankment. In 1834 the fractured half was removed from the town square to its present position in front of Pilgrim Hall, where it is now lying. The honor of having first set foot on this threshold of fame is claimed for John Alden and Mary Chilton. The question of precedence will probably never be settled. It is also claimed for the exploring party who landed from the shallop on Monday, the ||st of December, commonly called Forefathers' Day.^ For more than two hundred years the 22d of December had been observed as the day of the landing ; that is, in effect, to say, it had been so observed by the Pilgrims themselves, by their descendants around their firesides, and had received the sanction of formal commemoration, in 1769, by the Old Colony Club. Men were then living who were within two generations of the first comers, and retained all their traditions unimpaired. After this long period had elapsed, it was assumed that the Pilgrims had designed to signalize the landing of the exploring party of eighteen, rather than that from the Mayflow- er^ and upon this theory, by adopting the new style, the landing was fixed for the 21st, a substitution which has been generally acquiesced in by re- cent writers. Unless it is believed that the landing of the party of discovery possessed greater significance to the Pilgrims, and to those who lived within hearing of the voices of the Mayflower^ than the disembarkation of the whole body of colonists on the very strand they had finally adopted for their future home, the presumption of error in computing the difference between old and new style has little force. For six weeks these explorations had continued all along the coast-line of Cape Cod, and nothing had been settled until the return of the last party to the ship. The 3Iayfloioer then sailed for Plymouth, and cast anchor in the harbor on the 16th ; but the explorations continued, nor was there a decision until the 20th as to the best point for fixing the settlement. Moreover, there are no precise reasons for saying that the first exploring party landed any- where within the limits of the present town of Plymouth, nor any tradition of its making the rock a stepping-stone. We prefer to believe that the Pilgrims meant to illustrate the landing from the Mayflower — the event emphasized by poets, painters, and orators — as marking the true era of settlement; that the 22d of December was intelli- ^ This party consisted of eighteen persons — viz., Miles Standish, John Carver, William Bradford, Edward Winslow, John Tilley, Edward Tilley, John Rowland, Richard Warren, Steven Hopkins, and Edward Doten. Besides these were two seamen, John Alderton and Thomas English. Of the ship's company were Clark and Coppin, two of the master's mates, the master-gunner, and three sailors. This little band of discoverers left the ship at anchor at Cape Cod Harbor on the fgth of December. Mourt calls Alderton and English " two of our seamen," in distinction from the ship's company proper, they having been sent over by the undertakers, in the service of the plantation. PLYMOUTH, CLAKK'S ISLAND, AND DUXBURY. 291 gently adopted by those best able to judge of their intentions; and that an unbroken custom of more than two centuries should remain undisturbed, even if it had originated in a technical error, which we do not believe was the case, " This rock," says the gifted De Tocqueville, " has become an object of veneration in the United States. I have seen bits of it carefully preserved in several towns of the Union. Does not this sufficiently show that all human power and greatness is in the soul of man ? Plere is a stone which the feet of a few outcasts pressed for an instant, and the stone becomes famous ; it is treasured by a great nation ; its very dust is shared as a relic. And what has become of the gate-ways of a thousand palaces ? Who cares for them ?" The skeleton of a body was here before them, but, as Carlyle says, the soul was wanting until these men and women came. Mr. Sherley, writing to Brad- ford, says, " You are the people that must make a plantation and erect a city in those remote places when all others fail and return." I do not find such conspicuous examples of intolerance among the Pil- grims as afterward existed in the Bay Colony. Lyford said they were Jes- uits in their ecclesiastical polity, but they jDcrmitted him to gather a separate church and perform the Episcopal service among them. Beyond question, they were not willing to see the hierarchy from which they had fled estab- lish itself in their midst. The intrigues of such men as Lyford within the colony, and Weston in the company at home, kept back the remnant of their own chosen associates, and re-enforced them with churchmen, or else men of no particular religion or helpfulness. In November, 1621, the planters received an accession of thirty-five per- sons by the Fortune.^ It was the custom in the plantation for the governor to call all the able-bodied men together every day, and lead them to their work in the fields or elsewhere. On Christmas-day they were summoned as usual, but most of the new-comers excused themselves, saying it was against their consciences to work on that day. The governor told them if they made it a matter of conscience he would spare them until they were better inform- ed. He then led away the rest. When those who had worked came home at noon they found the conscientious observers of the day in the street, at play; some pitching the bar, and some at stool-ball and like sports. The governor went to them, took away their implements, and told them it was against his conscience they should play Mobile others worked. If they made keeping the day a matter of devotion, they must keep their houses, but there must be no gaming or reveling in the streets. Assuredly there was some fun in William Bradford, governor. 1 On her letuvn voyage the Fortune was seized by a French man-of-war, Captain Frontenan de Pennart, who took Thomas Barton, master, and the rest prisoners to the Isle of Khe, phindering the vessel of beaver worth five hundred pounds, belonging to the Pilgrims. Tlie vessel and crew were discharged after a brief detention. — " British Archives." 292 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. Ilutclnnson — after all the abuse of him, the fairest historian as to what transpired in advance of the Revolutionary period — gives the Plymouth col- onists credit for moderation. When Mrs. Hutchinson was banished by Mas- sachusetts, she and her adherents applied for and obtained leave to settle on Aquidneck, then acknowledged to be within the Plymouth patent. Before this, Roger Williams, who had been their minister, was, after his banishment from Salem, kindly used, though requested to remove beyond their limits, for fear of giving offense to the Massachusetts colony. Many Quakers probably saved their lives by fleeing to Plymouth, although the Pilgrims detested their worship and enacted laws against them. The town of Swanzey' was al- most wholly settled by Baptists. The relations of tlie Pilgrims with the Indians were founded in right and justice, and stood on broader grounds than mere policy. This is shown in the i;nswerving attachment of Massasoit, the fidelity of Samoset, and the friendship of Squanto. The appearance of Samoset in the Pilgrim village was of good augury to the colony, and is worthy of a more appreciative pen- cil than has yet essayed it. About the middle of March, after many false alarms of the savages, an In- dian stalked into the town. Passing silently by the houses, he made straight for the rendezvous. I think I see the matrons and maids peeping through their lattices at the dusky intruder. He was tall, straight of limb, and come- ly, Avith long black hair streaming down his bare back, for, except a narrow girdle about his loins, he was stark naked. When he would have gone into the rendezvous the guard intercepted him. He was armed with a bow, and in his quiver were only two arrows, one headed, the other unheaded, as indi- cating the pacific nature of his mission. His bearing was frank and fearless, as became a sagamore. " Welcome, Englishmen," he said to the by-standers, astounded, as well they might be, on hearing such familiar salutation from the lips of a savage. The first thing this Indian asked for was beer. The Pilgrims themselves preferred it to water, but they had none left; so they feasted him on good English cheer, and gave him strong waters to wash it down. His naked body excited astonishment, and a compassionate Pilgrim cast a horseman's cloak about him. Of all the assembly that encircled him, Samoset alone seemed unconcerned. The settlers had seen skulking savages on the hills, but they knew not what to make of this fellow, who thus dropped in on them, as it were, for a morning call. Since their first encounter with the Nauset Indians, they expected enmity, and not friendship. A midnight assault in their un- prepared state was the thing most dreaded. Peace or war seemed to reside in the person of this Indian. They watched him narrowly. At night-fall they hoped he would take his leave ; but he showed neither disposition to depart, ' Eirst spelled Swansea, and named from Swansea, in South Wales. PLYMOUTH, CLARK'S ISLAND, AND DUXBURY. 293 nor distrust at beholding himself the evident object of mingled fear and sus- picion. They concluded to send him on board the Mayfloicer for safe-keepin^, and Samoset went willingly to the shallop ; but it was low tide, and they could not reach the vessel. So they lodged him in Steven Hopkins's house. The next day he left them to go to Massasoit, and they finished by recogniz- ing him as a friend, sent them by Heaven. Samoset was the Pemaquid chief, of whom we should gladly know more than we do. His communications were of importance to the Pilgrims, for Bradford admits that the exact description he gave them of his own country and of its resources was very profitable to them. I suppose it led to their establishing the trading-houses at Penobscot and Kennebec, and to the addition of the strip of country on the latter river to their patent of 1629, afterward enlarged by other tracts purchased of the Indians. The Pilgrims preferred trading to fishing, and no subsequent colony had such an opportunity to enrich themselves; but it was the policy of the English adventurers to keep them poor, and it may be questioned whether they developed the shrewdness in traffic for which their descendants have become renowned. Samoset's coming paved the way for that of Massasoit, who made his en- try into Plymouth with Indian pomp, in March. He was preceded by Samo- set and Squanto,^ who informed the settlers that the king was close at hand. The Pilgrims were then assembled under arms on the top of Burial Hill, en- gaged in military exercise, and witnessed the approach of Massasoit with his savage retinue of sixty warriors. Here were two representative delegations of the Old World and the New; the English in steel cajDs and corslets, the Indians in wild beasts' skins, paint, and feathers. The bearing of the Chris- tians was not more martial than that of the savages. The Pilgrims stood on their dignity, and waited. At the king's request, Edward Winslow went out to hold parley with him. His shining armor de- lighted the Indian sachem, who would have bought it, together with his sword, on the spot, but Winslow was unwilling to part with either. After mutual salutations and some talk of King James, Massasoit, accompanied by twenty, proceeds to the town, leaving AVinslow a hostage in the liands of Quadequina, his brother. At the town brook Massasoit is met by Standish with half a dozen musketeers. Here are more grave salutations, and then the king is conducted to an unfinished house, where the utmost state the Pilgrims could contrive was a green rug and three or four cushions placed on the fioor. There is a roll of drum and blast of trumpet in the street, and Bradford, attended by musketeers, enters. He kisses the hand of the New England prince — " tho',." says Mourt, " the king looked greasily" — and the savage ^ Sqiianto was one of the Indians kidnaped by Hunt, and tiie last surviving native inlmbitant of Plymouth. He had lived in London with John Slany, merchant, treasurer of the Newfoundland Company. 294 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. kisses Bradford, Then they sit. The governor calls for a stoup of strong waters, which he quaffs to the king, after the manner of chivalry; the royal savage drinks, in return, a great draught, that makes him " sweate all the time after." " Give me the cups, And let the kettle to the trumpet speak, The trumpet to the cannoneer without, The cannons to the lieavens, the heaven to earth. 'Now the king drinks to Hamlet.' Come, begin." It may interest some readers to know what a real Indian king was like. "He was," says an eye-witness, "a very lustie man, in his best yeares, an able body, grave of countenance, and spare of speech; in his Attyre little or noth- ing differing from the vest of his followers, only in a great Chaine of white bone Beades about his necke ; and at it behinde his necke hangs a little bagg of Tobacco, which he dranke and gave us to drinke ; his face was painted with a sad red like murry, and oyled both head and face, that hee looked greasily. All his followers, likewise, were in their faces in whole or in part painted, some blacke, some red, some yellow, and some white, some with crosses, and other Antick workes, some had skins on them, and some naked, all strong, tall, all men in appearance. " One thing I forgot ; the king had in his bosome, hanging to a string, a great long knife. He marvelled much at our trumjDct, and some of his men would sound it as well as they could," Mourt also states that the king trem- bled with fear while he sat by the governor, and that the savages showed such apprehension of the fire-arms that the governor caused them to be re- moved during the conference. This was the first American Congress of which I have found mention. The Indians knew what a treaty of amity meant. They needed no instruc- tion in international law. I believe they knew the Golden Rule, or had a strong inkling of it. That was a convention more famous than the Field of the Cloth of Gold, though there were but a green rug and a few cushions, "The peace," Bradford writes, "hath now (1645) continued this twenty-four years." "To which I may add," says Prince, "yea, 30 years longer^ viz., to 1675," The Indians, at the entertainment given them in Plymouth, partook heart- ily of the food set before them, but they could not be induced to taste spices or condiments. Salt was not used by them, Gosnold regaled them with a picnic at the Vineyard, of which John Brereton says, " the Indians niisliked nothing but our mustard, whereat they made many a sowre face," I doubt not the English spread it thickly on the meat, even at the hazard of good understanding. It took these simple natives a long time to comprehend the English meth- od of correspondence. They could not penetrate the mystery of talking pa- PLYMOUTH, CLARK'S ISLAND, AND DUXBUKY. 295 per. Tlieve is a story of an Indian sent by Governor Dudley to a lady with some oranges, the present being accompanied with a letter in which the num- ber was mentioned. When out of the town, the Indian put the letter under a stone, and going a short distance oiF, ate one of the oranges. His astonish- ment at finding the theft discovered was unbounded. I did not omit a ramble among the wharves, but saw little that would in- terest the reader. When you are there, the proper thing to do is to take a boat and cross the bay to Clark's Island and Duxbury. We sailed over the submerged piles at the end of Long Wharf; for the pier, once the pride of Plymouth, w\as fast going to wreck. The tops of the piles, covered with sea- weed kept in motion by the waves, bore an unpleasant resemblance to drown- ed human heads bobbing up and down. As we passed close to the new li^-ht- house off Beach Point, the boatman remarked that when it was being placed in position the caisson slipped in the slings, and dropped to the bottom near- er the edge of the channel than was desirable. Having wind enough, we were soon up with Saquish Head, and in a few minutes more were fjist moored to the little jetty at Clark's Island. The presence at one time of two islands in Plymouth Bay is fully attested by competent witnesses. Many have supposed Brown's Island, a shoal seaward of Beach Point, to have been one of these, tradition affirming that the stumps of trees have been seen there. One author' believes Brown's Island to have been above water in the time of the Pilgrims. Champlain locates two islands on Duxbury side, with particulars that leave no doubt where they then were. Mourt twice mentions them, and they are on Blauw's map inside the Gurnet headland. In an account of Plymouth Harbor, printed near the close of the last century, two islands are mentioned : " Clark's, consisting of about one hundred acres of excellent land, and Saquish, which was joined to the Gurnet by a narrow piece of sand : for several years the water has made its way across and insulated it. The Gurnet is an eminence at the southern extrem- ity of the beach, on which is a light-house, built by the State.'"' Bradford mentions the narrow escape of their pinnace from shipwreck on her return from Narraganset in 1623, by "driving on y'^ flats that lye with- out, caled Brown's Hands." W^inthrop relates that in 1635 " two shallops, going, laden with goods, to Connecticut, were taken in the night with an east- erly storm and cast aw\ay upon Brown's Island, near the Gurnett's Nose, and the men all drowned." In 1806 it was, as now, a shoal. There can be little dispute as to Saquish having been permanently united to the main-land by those shiftinof movements common to a sea-coast of sand.^ ' Winsor, "History of Duxbury," p. 2(5, note. ■^ See ante, also " Massacliusetts Historical Collections," vol. ii., p. 5. First light-house erected 1703; burned 1801. ^ Saquisli is tlie Indian fur clams. They are of extraordinary size in riynioutii and Duxbury. 296 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. TUE GURNET. It is rather remarkable that, with a sea-coast exceeding that of the other New England colonies, Plymouth had so few good harbors. The beach, the safeguard of Plymouth, was once covered on the inner side with plum and wild cherry trees, pitch-pines, and undergrowth similar to that existing on Cape Cod and the adjacent islands. The sea has, in great storms, made a clean breach through it, digging channels by which vessels passed. There was a shocking disaster within the harbor in December, 1778, when the pri- vateer brig General Arnold broke from her anchorage in the Cow Yard,' and was driven by the violence of the gale upon the sand-flats. Twenty-four hours elapsed before assistance could be rendered, and when it arrived sev- enty-five of the crew had perished from freezing and exhaustion, and the re- mainder were more dead than alive.^ As we sailed I observed shoals of herring breaking water, or, as the fisher- men Avord it, "scooting." Formerly they were taken in prodigious quantity, and used by the Pilgrims to enrich their land. Squanto gave them the hint of putting one in every hill of corn. His manner of fishing for eels, I may add, was new to me. He trod them out of the mud with his feet, and caught them in his hands. I was surprised at the number of seals continually rising ' An anchorage near Clark's Island, so called from a cow-whale having been taken there. ° The following account of what straits light-keepers have been subjected to in coast-harbors during the past winter will perhaps be read with some surprise by those acquainted with Plymouth only in its summer aspect : " On Tuesday evening, February 9th, 1875, the United States revenue steamer Gallatin put into Plymouth harbor for the night, to avoid a north-west gale blowing out- side. On the morning of the 10th, at daylight, when getting under way, Captain Selden discovered a signal of distress flying on Duxbury Pier Light. Tlie light-house was so surrounded by ice that he was utterly unable to I'each the pier with a boat ; the captain, therefore, steamed the vessel through the ice near enough to converse with the keeper, and found that he had had no communi- cation with any one outside of the light since December 22d, 187-1 ; that his fuel and water were out; and that they had been on an allowance of a pint of water a day since February 6th, 1875. The steamer forced her way to within some fifty or seventy-five yards of the pier, when Lieutenants Weston and Clayton, with the boats, succeeded, after two hours' hard work cutting through the ice, in reaching the pier, and furnished the keeper and his wife with plenty of wood and water." PLYMOUTH, CLARK'S ISLAND, AND DUXBURY. 20: within lialf a cable's lengtli of tlie boat, at which they curiously gazed with their bright liquid eyes. We did them no harm as ever and anon one puslied his sleek round head and whiskered muzzle above water. Hundreds of them disport themselves here in summer, though in winter they usually migrate. It is only a little way from the landing-place at Clark's Island to the ven- erable Watson mansion, seen embowered among trees as we approached.' The parent house was removed from ^ _^ - its first situation, ^P* "" — ^^^ "^irr_-_- rather nearer the water than it now stands, and has incorporated with itself newer addi- tions,tillit is quite lost in the trans- formation it has undergone. The island is a charm- ing spot, and the house a substan- tial, hospitable one. I did not like it the less be- watson's house, Clark's island. cause it was old, and seemed to carry me something nearer to the Pilgrims than any of the wdiite band of houses I saw across the bay. Ducks, turkeys, geese, and fowls lived in good-fellowship together in the barn-j'ard, where were piled unseaworthy boats; and store of old lumber-drifts the sea had pro- vided against the winter. The jaw-bone of a Avhale, that Mr. Watson said he had found stranded on the beach, and brought home on his back, lay bleach- ing in the front yard. I may have looked a trifle incredulous, for the halo old gentleman, turned, I should say, of three-score, drew himself up as if he would say, " Sir, I can do it again." After showing us his family portraits, ancient furniture, and other heir- looms, our host told us how Sir Edmund Andros had tried to dispossess his ancestors. My companion and myself then took the path leading to Election Rock, that owes its name, doubtless, to some local event. It is a large boul- der, about twelve feet high, on the highest point of the island. Two of its ' There is tradition for it that Edward Dotey, the fighting serving-man, was the first who at- tempted to hind on Clark's Ishmd, but was checked for his presnmption. Elkanah Watson was one of the three original grantees of the island, which has remained in the family since IG'JO. Pre- vious to that time it belonged to the town. The other proprietors were Samuel Lucas and George Morton. 298 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. ELECTION ROCK, CLARK' S ISLAND. faces are precipitous, while the western side offers an easy ascent. At the instance of the Pilgrim Society, the following words, from " Monrt's Re- lation," have been graven on its face: " On the Sabboth Day wee rested. 20 December, 1620." As is well known to all who have followed the fortunes of the little band of eighteen — and who has not followed them in their toilsome progress in search of a haven of rest? — their shallop, after narrowly escaping wreck among the shoals of Saquish, gained a safe anchorage under the shelter of one of the then existing islands. It is probable that when they rounded Saquish Head they found themselves in smoother water. The gale had carried away their mast and sail. Their pilot proved not only ignorant of the place into which he was steering, but a coward when the jDinch came. They were on the point of beaching the shallop in a cove full of breakers, when one of the sailors bid them about with her, if they were men, or else they would be all lost. So that the fortunes of the infant col- ony hung, at this critical moment, on the presence of mind of a nameless mariner. Cold, hungry, and wet to the skin, they remained all night in a situation which none but the roughest campaigner would know how^ rightly to estimate. The Indians had met them, at Eastham, with such determined hostility that they expected no better reception here. Their arms were Avet and unserv- iceable. As usual, present discomfort triumphed over their fears, for many were so much exhausted that they could no longer endure their misery on board the shallop. Some of them gained the shore, Avhere with great diffi- culty they lighted a fire of the wet wood they were able to collect. The re- mainder of the party were glad to join them before midnight; for the wind shifted to north-west, and it began to freeze. They had little idea Avhere they were, having come upon the land in the dark. It was not until day- break that they knew it to be an island. Surely, these were times to try the souls of men, and to wring the selfishness out of them. This night bivouac, this vigil of the Pilgrims around their blazing camp- fire, the flames painting their bronzed faces, and sending a grateful warmth into benumbed bodies, was a subject worthy the pencil of Rembrandt. I doubt that they dared lay their armor aside or shut their eyes the live-long night. I believe they were glad of the dawn of a bright and glorious Decern- PLYMOUTH, CLARK'S ISLAND, AND DUXBURY. 299 ber day.' They dried their buff coats, cleansed tlieir arms of rust, and felt themselves ouce more men fit for action. Tlien tliey shouldered their mus- kets and reconnoitred the island. Probably the eighteen stood on the sum- mit of this rock. I found Clark's Island to possess a charm exceeding any so-called restora- tion or monumental inscription — the cliarm of an undisturbed state. iSTo doubt much of the original forest has disappeared, and Boston has yet to re- turn the cedar gate-posts so carefully noted by every succeeding chronicler of the Old Colony. A few scrubby originals of this variety yet, however, re- main ; and the eastern side of the island is not destitute of trees. The air was sweet and wholesome, the sea-breeze invigorating. In the quietude of the isle the student may open his history, and read on page and scene the story of a hundred English hearts sorely tried, but triumphing at last. History has not told us how the eighteen adventurous Pilgrims passed their first Sabbath on Clark's Island. One writer says very simply " wee rested;" and his language re-appears on the tablet of imperishable rock. Bradford says, on the " last day of y^ weeke they prepared ther to keepe y^ Sabbath." If ever they had need of rest it was on this day; and if ever they had reason to give thanks for their " manifold deliverances," now was the oc- casion. They would hardly have stirred on any enterprise Avithout their Bible ; and probably one having the imprint of Geneva, with figured verses, was now produced. Bradford, yet ignorant of his wife's death, may have prayed, and Winslow exhorted, as both admit they often did in the cliurch. Master Carver may have struck the key-note of the Hundredth Psalm, " the grand old Puritan anthem;" and even Miles Standish and the "saylers" three, may have joined in the forest hymnal.'* Hood, in his " History of Music in New England," speaking of the early part of the eighteenth century, says : " Singing psalms, at that day, had not become an amusement among the people. It was used, as it ever ought to be, only as a devotional act. So great was tlie reverence in which their psalm-tunes were held, that the people put off their hats, as they Avould in praj^er, whenever they heard one sung, though not a word was uttered." On leaving Clark's Island we steered for Cai)tain's Hill. By this time the water had become much roughened, or, to borrow a word from the boatmen's vocabulary, "choppy;" I should have called it hilly. Our attempt to land at Duxbury was met with great kickiiig, bouncing, and squabbling on the part of the boat, which seemed to like the chafing of the wharf as little as we did the idea of a return to Plymouth against wind and tide. Quiet persover- ' Saturday, December Otli, Old Style. ■ No reasonable doubt can be entertained tbat the Pilgrims' first religious services were licld in Provincetown Harbor, either on board the Mayflower or on shore. Tiiey were not the men and women to permit several Sabbaths to pass by without devotional exercises. 300 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. ance, however, prevailed, and, after clambering up the piles, we stood upon the wharf. A short walk by the cart-way, built to fetch stone from the pier to the monument, brought us to the brow of the hill. Captain's Hill, named from Captain Miles Standish, its early possessor, is on a peninsula jutting out between Duxbury and Plymouth bays. Its surface is smooth, with few trees, except those belonging to the farm-houses near its base. The soil, that is elsewhere in Duxbury sandy and unproductive, is here rather fertile, which accounts for its having become the seat of the puissant Captain Standish. The monument, already mentioned as in progress, had ad- vanced as high as the foundations. As originally planned, it was to be built of stones contributed by each of the New England States, and by the several counties and military organizations of Massachusetts. Standish, about 1632, settled upon this peninsula, building his house on a little rising ground south-east of the hill near the shore. All traces that arc left of it will be found on the point of land opposite Mr. Stephen M. Allen's house. The cellar excavation was still visible when I visited it, with some of the foundation-stones lying loosely about. Except a clump of young trees that had become rooted in the hollows, the point is bare, and looks any thing but a desirable site for a homestead, Plymouth is in full view, as is also the harbor's open mouth. The space between the headland on which the house stood and Captain's Hill was at one time either an arm of the sea, or else in great gales the water broke over the level, forming a sort of lagoon. Mr. Winsor, in his " History of Duxbury," says the sea, according to the tradi- tions of the place, once flowed between Standish's house and the hill. The ground about the house, he adds, has been turned up in years past, the search being rewarded by the recovery of several relics of the old inhabitant.^ The house is said to have been burned, but so long ago that even the date has been quite forgotten. On this same neck Elder Brewster is believed to have lived, but the situation of his dwelling is at best doubtful. The earliest reference I have seen to the tradition of John Alden "popping the question" to Priscilla Mullins for his friend, Miles Standish, is in "Alden's Epitaphs," printed in 1814. No mention is there of the snow-white bull, "Led by a cord that was tied to an iron ring in its nostrils, Covered with crimson cloth, and a cushion placed for a saddle." John Alden's marriage took place, it is supposed, in 1621. The first cattle brought to Plymouth were a bull, a heifer, and " three or four jades," sent by Mr. Sherley, of the Merchant's Association, in 1624. They were consigned to ^ The first substance discovered was a quantity of barley, charred and wrapped in a blanket. Ashes, as fresh as if the fire had just been extinguished, were found in the chimney-place, with pieces of an andiron, iron pot, and other articles. There were discovered, also, a gun-locl<, sickle, hammer, whetstone, and fragments of stone and earthen ware. A sword-buckle, tomahawk, brass kettle, etc., with glass beads, showing the action of intense heat, likewise came to light. PLYMOUTH, CLARK'S ISLAND, AND DUXBUKY. 30i Winslow and Allerton, to be sold. The tradition of the embassy of Aldon and of the incomparably arch rejoinder of Priscilla, " Prythee, John, why don't you speak for yourself?" was tirmly believed in the family of Alden, where along with that of the young cooper having first stepped on the ever-famous rock, it had passed from the mouth of one generation to another, without gainsaying. I am not of those who experience a thrill of joy at destroying tlie illusions of long-hoarded family traditions. What of romance has been interwoven with the singularly austere lives of the Puritans, gracious reader, let us cher- ish and protect. The province of the Dryasdust of to-day is to bewilder, to deny the existence of facts that have passed without challenge for centuries. The farther he is from the event, the nearer he accounts himself to truth. Historic accuracy becomes another name for historic anarchy. Nothing is settled. The grand old characters he strips of their hard-earned fame can not confront him. Would they might ! Columbus, Tell, Pocahontas, are im- postors: Ireson's Ride and Standish's Courtship are rudely handled. His tactics would destroy the Christian religion. Without doubt mere historic truth is better written in prose, but by all means let us put a stop to the slaughter of all the first-born of New England poesy. Let us have Puritan lovers and sweethearts while we may. "What is your authority?" asked a visitor of the guide who was relating the story of a ruined castle. " We have tradition, and if you have any thing better we will be glad of it." The position of Standish in the colony was in a degree anomalous, for he was neither a church member nor a devout man. But the Pilgrims, who knew on occasion how to smite with the sword, did not put too trifling an estimate upon the value of the little iron man. He seems to have deserved, as he certainly received, their confidence, as well in those affairs arising out of religious disorders among them as in those of a purely military character. When wanted, they knew where he was to be found. After his fruitless embassy to England, Standish seems to have turned his sword into a pruning-hook, leading a life of rural simplicity, perhaps of com- parative ease. He had, as the times went, a goodly estate. There is little doubt he was something " splenetic and rash," or that the elders feared he would bring them into trouble by his impetuous temper. He was of a race of soldiers.' Hubbard calls him a little chimney soon fired. Lyford speaks of him as looking like a silly boy, and in utter contempt. The Pilgrims man- aged his infirmities with address, and he served them laithfully as soldier and magistrate. It is passing strange a man of such consequence as he should sleep in an unknown grave. Near the foot of Captain's Hill is an old gambrol-roofed house, with the ' I find that a Captain Standish, who is called a great commander, a captain of foot, was killed in an attack by Lord Strange on Manchester, England, during the Civil War, 1G42. 302 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. date of 1666 on the chimney. At the entrance the stairs part on each side of an immense chimney-stack. The timbers, rough-hewn and exposed to view, are bolted with tree-nails. One fire-place would have contained a Yule-log from any tree in the primeval forest. The hearth was in breadth like a side- walk. On the doors were wooden latches, or bobbins, with the latch-string out, as we read in nursery tales. The front of the house was covered with climbing vines, and, taken altogether, as it stood out against the dark back- ground of the hill, was as picturesque an object as I have seen in many a day.' I would like to walk with you two miles farther on, and visit the old Al- den homestead, the third that has been inhabited by the family since pilgrim John built by the margin of Eagle Tree Pond. This old house, erected by Colonel Alden, grandson of the first-comer of the name, is still in the same family, and would well repay a visit ; but time and tide wait for us. Farther on I have rambled over ancient Careswell, the seat of the Wins- lows, a family with a continuous stream of history, from Edward, the govern- or, who became one of Cromwell's Americans, and died in his service (you may see his letters in the ponderous folios of Thurloe), down to the winner in the sea-fight between the Kearsarge and Alabama. Beyond is the mansion Daniel Webster inhabited in his lifetime, and the hill where, among the an- cient graves, he lies entombed. Here, in Kingston, General John Thomas, of the Revolution, lived. Another military chieftain, little less renowned than Standish, was Colonel Benjamin Church, the famous Indian fighter. lie Avas Plymouth-born, but lived some time in Duxbury. In turning over the pages of Philip's and King William's wars, we meet him often enough, and always giving a good account of himself One act of the Plymouth authorities during Philip's Avar deserves eternal in- famy. It drew from Church the Avhole-hearted denunciation of a brave man. During that war Dartmouth was desti'oyed. The Dartmouth Indians had not been concerned in this outrage, and after much persuasion were induced to surrender themselves to the Plym- outh forces. They Avere conducted to Plymouth. The Govern- ment ordered all of them to be sold as slaves, and they Avere chukch's transported out of the country, to the number of one hundred I despaired of being able to match this act of treachery with any con- temporaneous history. But here is a fragment that somewhat approaches it ' This house has been stated to have been built in part of materials from the house of Captain Miles Standish. ' Bavlies's "New Plymouth." PLYMOUTH, CLARK'S ISL^VND, AND DUXBURY. 3O3 in villainy. In 1684 the King of France wrote M. de la Barre, Governor of New France, to seize as many of the Iroquois as possible, and send them to France, where they were to serve in the galleys, in order to diminish the tribe, which was warlike, and waged war against the French. Many of them were actually in the galleys of Marseilles.' The balance is still in our favor. In 1755 we expatriated the entire French population of Acadia, Mr. Longfellow tells the story graphically in " Evangeline." John Winslow, of Marshtield, was the instrument chosen by the home government for the work. It was conducted with savage barbarity. Families were separated, wives from husbands, children from parents. They were parceled out like cattle among the English settlements. Their aggre- gate number was nearly two thousand persons, thenceforth without home or country. One of these outcasts, describing his lot, said, " It was the hardest that had happened since our Saviour was ujjon earth." The story is true. Our little boat worked her way gallantly back to Plymouth. Though thoroughly wet with the spray she had flung from her bows, I was not ill- pleased with the expedition. Figuratively speaking, my knapsack was pack- ed, my staff and wallet waiting my grasp. With the iron horse that stood panting at the door I made in two hours the journey that Winthrop, Endi- cott, and Winslow took two days to accomplish. Certainly I found Plym- outh much changed. The Pilgrims would hardly recognize it, though now, as in centuries before their coming, "The waves that brought them o'er Still roll in the bay, and throw their spray. As they break along the shore." * "Massachusetts Archives." PROVINCETOWN FROM THE HILLS. CHAPTER XIX. PROVINCETOWN. "A man may stand thei'e and put all America behind him." — Thoreatt. A S it was already dark when I arrived in Provincetown, I saw only the -^-^ glare from the lantern of Highland Light in passing through Truro, and the gleaming from those at Long Point and Wood End, before the train drew up at the station. It having been a rather busy day with me (I had embark- ed at Nantucket in the morning, idled away a few hours at Vineyard Haven, and rested as many at Cohasset Narrows), it will be easily understood why I left the investigation of my whereabouts to the morrow. My wants were at this moment reduced to a bed, a pair of clean sheets, and plenty of blankets; for though the almanac said it was July in Provincetown, the night breeze blowing freshly was strongly suggestive of November. It was Swift, I think, who said he never knew a man reach eminence Avho was not an early riser. Doubtless the good doctor was right. But, then, if he had lodged as I lodged, and had risen as I did, two mortal hours before breakfast-time, he might have allowed his precept to have its exceptions. I devoted these hours to rambling about the town. Though not more than half a hundred miles from Boston, as the crow flies. Cape Cod is regarded as a sort o^ terra incognita by fully half of New England. It has always been considered a good place to emigrate from, rather than as offering inducements for its young men and women to re- main at home; though no class of New Englanders, I should add, are more warmly attached to the place of their nativity. The ride throughout the Cape affords the most impressive example of the tenacity with which a pop- ulation clings to locality that has ever come under my observation. To one PROVINCETOWN. 305 accustoraecl to the fertile shoves of Narraganset Bay or the valley of the Con- necticut, the region between Sandwich, where you enter upon the Cape, and Orleans, where you reach the bend of the fore-arm, is bad enough, though no desert. Beyond this is simply a wilderness of sand. The surface of the country about Brewster and Orleans is rolling prairie, barren, yet thinly covered with an appearance of soil. Stone walls divide the fields, but from here down the Cape you will seldom see a stone of any size in going thirty miles. My faith in Pilgrim testimony began to diminish as I looked on all sides, and in vain, for a " spit's-depth of excellent black earth," such as they tell of. It has, perchance, been blown away, or buried out of sight in the shiftings constantly going on here. Eastham, Wellfleet, and COHASSET NAKKOWS. Truro grow more and more forbidding, as you approach the Ultima Thide, or land's end.' Mr. Thorean, who has embodied the results of several excursions to the Cape in some admirable sketches, calls it the bared and bended arm of Massa- chusetts. Mr. Everett had already used the same figure. To me it looks like a skinny, attenuated arm thrust within a stocking for mending — the bony elbow at Chatham, the wrist at Truro, and the half-closed fingers at Prov- incetown. It seems quite down at the heel about Orleans, and as if much darning would be needed to make it as good as new. It was something to conceive, and more to execute, such a tramp as Thoreau's, for no one ought to ' There is a well-defined line of demavkation between tlie almost uninterrupted rock wall of the north coast and the sand, which, beginning in the Old Colony, in Scituate, constitutes Cape Cod; and, if we consider Nantucket, Martha's Vineyard, and Long Island as having at some pe- riod formed the exterior shores, the almost unbroken belt of sand continues to Florida. This line is so little imaginary that it is plain to see where granite gives place to sand; and it is sufficiently curious to arrest the attention even of the unscientific explorer. 20 306 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. attempt it who can not rise superior to his surroundings, and shake off the gloom the weird and wide-spread desolateness of the landscape inspires. I would as lief have marched with Napoleon from Acre, by Mount Carmel, through the moving sands of Tentoura. The resemblance of the Cape to a hook appears to have struck navigators quite early. On old Dutch maps it is delineated with tolerable accuracy, and named " Staaten Hoeck," and the bay inclosed within the bend of it " Staaten Bay." Massachusetts Bay is " Noord Zee," and Cape Malabar " Vlacke Hoeck." Milford Haven appears about Avhere Eastham is now located. On the earliest map of Champlain the extremity of the Cape is called "C. Blanc," or the White Cape.' Mather says of Cape Cod, he supposes it will never lose the name "till swarms of codfish be seen swimming on the highest hills," This hook, though a sandy one, caught many a school of migratory fish, and even whales found themselves often embayed in the bight of it, on their way south, until, from being so long hunted down, they learned to keep a good ofiing. It also caught all the southerly drift along shore, such as stray HIGHLAND LIGHT, CAPE COD. ships from France and England. Bartholomew Gosnold and John Brereton were the first white men to land on it. De Monts, Champlain, De Poutrin- court. Smith, and finally the Forefathers, were brought up and turned back by it. Bradford, under date of 1620, writes thus in his journal: "A word or two by y* way of this Cape : it was thus first named (Cape Cod) by Captain Gos- nold and his company, An°: 1602, and after by Capten Smith was caled Cape James; but it retains y" former name amongst sea-men. Also y' pointe which 'Lequel nous nommames C. Blanc pour ce que c'estoient sables et dunes qui paroissent PROVINCETOWN. 30 7 first shewed those dangerous shoulds unto them, they called Point Care, and Tucker's Terrour ;' but y* French and Dutch, to this day, call it Malabarr, by reason of those perilous shoulds, and y* losses they have suffered their." Notwithstanding what Bradford says, the name ofMallebarre is affixed to the extreme point of Cape Cod on early French maps. In Smith's " New En- gland " is the following description : "Cape Cod is the next presents itselfe, which is onely a headland of higli hills of sand, overgrowne with shrubbie pines, hurts, and such trash, but an excellent harbor for all weathers. The Cape is made by the maine sea on the one side and a great Bay on the other, in forme of a sickle ; on it doth inhabit the people of Pawmet; and in the bottome of the Bay, the people of Chawum. Towards the south and south-west of this Cape is found a long and dangerous shoale of sands and rocks. But so farre as I encircled it, I found thirtie fadora water aboard the shore and a strong current, which makes mee thinke there is a channel about this Shoale, where is the best and great- est fish to be had. Winter and Summer, in all that Countrie. But the Salvages say there is no channel, but that the shoales beginne from the maine at Paw- met to the ile of Nausit, and so extends beyond their knowledge into the sea." The historical outcome of the Cape is in the early navigations, and in the fact that Provincetown was the harbor entered by the Forefathers. The first land they saw, after Devon and Cornwall had sunk in the sea, was this sand- bar, for it is nothing else. It appeared to their eager eyes, as it will proba- bly never again be seen, wooded down to the shore. Whales, that they had not the means of taking, disported around them. They dropped anchor three- quarters of a mile from shore, and, in order to land, were forced to wade a "bow shoot," by which many coughs and colds were caught, and a founda- tion for the winter's sickness laid. The first landing was probably on Long Point. The men set about discovery ; for the master had told them, with a sailor's bluntness, he would be rid of them as soon as possible. The women went also to shore to wash, thus initiating on Monday, November -jfd, the great New England washing-day. Were there to be a day of general observance In New England commem- orative of the landing of the Pilgrims, it should be that on which they first set foot on her soil at Cape Cod; the day, too, on which the compact was signed.* Whatever of sentiment attached to the event should, it would seem, be consecrated to the very spot their feet first pressed. There is yet time to rescue the day from unaccountable and unmerited neglect. On the map of Cyprian Southack a thoroughfiire is delineated from Mas- sachusetts Bay to the ocean at Eastham, near Sandy Point. His words are : ' Named by Captain Gosnold, on account of the expressed fears of one of his company. " Being the JJst of November, it would fall quite near to the day usually set apart for Thanks- giving in New England, which is merely an arbitrary observance, commemorative of no particular occurrence. 308 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. "The place where I came through with a whale-boat, April 26th, 1717, to look after Bellaiue the pirate." I have never seen this map, which Douglass pro- nounces " a false and pernicious sea-chart." From its barring their farther progress, Cape Cod was well known to the discoverers of the early part of the seventeenth century. According to Les- carbot, Poutrincourt spent fifteen days in a port on the south side. It had been formally taken possession of in the name of the French king. The first conflict between the whites and natives occurred there ; and in its sands were interred the remains of the first Christian who died within the ancient limits of New England.' The assault of the natives on De Poutrincourt is believed to have occur- red at Chatham, ironically named by the French Port Fortune, in remem- brance of their mishaps there. It was the very first collision recorded be- tween Europeans and savages in New England. Five of De Poutrincourt's men having slept on shore contrary to orders, and without keeping any watch, the Indians fell on them at day-break, October 15th, 1606, killing two outright. The rest, who were shot through and through with arrows, ran down to the shore, crying out, " Help ! they are murdering us !" the savages pursuing with frightful whoopings. Hearing these outcries and the appeal fiar help, the sentinel on board the bark gave the alarm: ^^Aux armesf they are killing our people!" Roused by the signal, those on board seized their arms, and ran on deck, without taking time to dress themselves. Fifteen or sixteen threw themselves into the shallop, without stopping to light their matches, and pushed for the shore. Finding they could not reach it on account of an intervening sand-bank, they leaped into the water and waded a musket-shot to land. De Poutrincourt, Champlain, Daniel Hay, Robert Grave the younger, son of Du Pont Grave, and the younger Poutrincourt, with their trumpeter and apothecary, were of the party that rushed pell-mell, almost stark naked, upon the savages. The Indians, perceiving the rescuing band within a bow-shot of them, took to flight. It was idle to pursue those nimble-footed savages ; so the French- men brought their dead companions to the foot of the cross they had erected on the preceding day, and there buried them. While chanting the funeral prayers and orisons of the Church, the natives, from a safe distance, shouted derisively and danced to celebrate their treason. After their funeral rites were ended the French voyagers silently returned on board. In a few hours, the tide being so low as to prevent the whites from land- ing, the natives again appeared on the shore. They threw down the cross, disinterred the bodies of the slain Frenchmen, and stripped them before the eyes of their exasperated comrades. Several shots Avere fired at them from ' One of De Monts's men ("wn charpentier Maloin") was killed here in 1G05 by the natives. In attempting to recover a kettle one of them had stolen, he was transfixed with arrows. PROVINCETOWN. 309 the bronze gun on board, the natives at every discharge throwing themselves flat on their faces. As soon as the Frencli could land, they again set up the cross, and reinterred the dead. The natives, for the second time, fled to a dis- tance.' Provincetown was originally part of Truro. Its etymology explains that its territory belonged to the province of Massachusetts. The earliest inhab- itants had no other title than possession, and their conveyance is by quit- claim. For many years the place experienced the alternations of thrift and decay, being at times well-nigh deserted. In 1749, says Douglass, in his " Summary," the town consisted of only two or three settled families, two o;- three cows, and six to ten sheep. The houses formerly stood in one range, without regularity, along the beach, with the drying -flakes around them. WASHING FISH. Fishing vessels were run upon the soft sand, and their cargoes thrown into the water, wdiere, after being washed free from salt, the fish were taken up and carried to the flakes in hand-barrows. Cape Cod Harbor, by which name it is also familiar to the readers of Pilgrim chronicles, was the earliest name of Provincetown. The place has now lost the peculiar character it owed to the windmills on * Lescarbot adds that the natives, turning their backs to the vessel, threw the sand with both hands toward them from between their buttocks, in derision, yelling like wolves. 310 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. the sandy heights above the town and the salt-works on the beach before it. The streets, described by former writers as impassable, by reason of the deep sand, I found no difficulty in traversing. What with an admixture of clay, and a top-dressing of oyster-shells and pebble, brought from a distance, they have managed to make their principal thoroughfares solid enough. Step aside from these, if you would know what Provincetown was like in the past. If the streets were better than I had thought, the houses were far bet- ter. The great number of them were of Avood, looking as most New En- gland houses look — ready for the torch. They usually had underpinnings of brick, instead of being, as formerly, built on posts, in order that the sand might blow underneath them. There were willows, poplars, locusts, and balm of Gilead, standing about in odd corners, and of good size. I saw a few sickly fruit-trees that appeared dying for lack of moisture ; and some enterprising citizens were able to make a show of lilacs, syringas, pinks, and geraniums in their front yai'ds. I talked with them, and saw that the unremitting struggle for life that attended the growth of these few simple flowers seemed to increase their love for them, and enlarge their feeling for what was beautiful. All the earth they have is imported. I called to mind those Spanish vineyards, where the peasant carries a hamper of soil up the sunny slopes of the mount- ain-sides, and in some crevice of the rocks plants his vine. There are two principal streets in Provincetown. One of, I should imag- ine, more than a mile in length, runs along the harbor; the other follows an elevated ridge of the sand-hills, and is parallel with the first. A plank-walk is laid on one side of the avenue by the shore, the other side being occupied by stores, fish-houses, and wharves. No sinister meaning is attached to walk- ing the plank in Provincetown ; for what is the whole Cape if not a gang- plank pushed out over the side of the continent? Where the street on the ridge is carried across gaps among the hills, the retaining walls were of bog-peat, which was also laid on the sides of those hills exposed to the force of the wind. Whortleberry, bayberry, and wild rose were growing out of the interstices. They flourish as well as when the Pilgrims were here, though all the primitive forest disappeared long ago, I ascended the hill on Avhich the town-hall building stands. You must go up the town road, or break the law, as I saw, by the straggling footpaths, the youngsters were in the habit of doing. Read sand for scoriae, and the fate of Herculaneum seems impending over Provincetown. The safeguards taken to prevent the hills blowing down upon it impresses the stranger with a sense of insecurity, though the inhabitants do not seem much to mind it. I have heard that in exposed situations on the Cape window-glass becomes opaque by reason of the frequent sand-blasts rattling against the panes. On the hill was formerly a windmill, having the flyers inside, so resem- bling, say the town annalists, a lofty tower. It was a famous landmark for PROVINCETOWN. 3 1 ] vessels making the port. Thvi cliurt-makers have now replaced it with the town hall, and every mariner steering for Provincetown has an eye to it. The harbor is completely land-locked. There is good anchorage for ves- sels of the largest class. Ofttimes it is crowded with shipping seeking a ha- ven of refuge. This morning there were perhaps fifty sail, of every kind of craft. An inward-bound vessel must steer around every point of the compass before the anchor is let go in safety. In the Revolution the port was made use of by the British squadrons, to refit, and procure water.' The tide flows on the bay side of the Cape about twenty feet, while at the back of it there is a flow of only five or six feet. The town is of extreme length, compared with its breadth, being con- tracted between the range of high sand-hills behind it and the beach. It lies fronting the south-east, bordering the curve of the shore, which sweeps grand- ly around half the circumference of a circle on the bay side. In one direction extends the long line of shore. If Boston be your starting-point, you must travel a hundred and twenty miles to get fifty ; and, by the time you arrive at the extremity of the Cape, should be able to box the compass. Looking south, Long Point terminates the land view. Following with the eye the outline of the hook, it rests an instant on the shaft of the light-house at Wood End, the extreme southerly point of the Cape. Thence the coast trends north-west as far as Race Poivit, which is shut out from view by intervening hills. Race Point is the outermost land of the Cape. All these names are well known to mariners, the world over. The shores are bordered with dangerous bars and shallows. As shipping could not get up to the town, the town has gone ofi" to it, in the shape of a wharf of great length. Our Pilgrim ancestors had to wade a " bow shoot " to get on dry land. A resident told me that with fishing-boots on I could cross to the head of Herring Cove at low tide. Assuredly, it is one of the most wonderful of havens, and little likely to be dispensed with, even if the vexed question of "A way for ships to shape, Instead of winding round the Cape A short-cut through the collar," be answered by a ship-canal from Barnstable to Buzzard's Bay,* On the summit of Town Hill you are almost astride the Cape, having the Atlantic on one side, and Massachusetts Bay in full view on the other. The port is not what it was when some storm-tossed bark, in accepting its shel- ter, was the town talk for months. Ships come and go by scores and hun- • Hubbard relates a terrific storm here. See "New Enghind," p. G44. In 1813 there was a naval engagement at Provincetown. ^ General Knox was interested in tliis project. Lemuel Cox, tiie celebrated biidge architect, was engaged in cutting it. 312 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. dreds, folding their wings and settling down on the water like weary sea- gulls. With an outward appearance of prosperity, I found the people bemoaning the hard times. Taxes, they said, were twenty dollars in the thousand, and only ten at Wareham ; fish were scarce, and prices low, too, though as to the last item consumers think otherwise. The fishermen I saw were burly, athletic fellows, apparently not more thrifty than their class everywhere. They are averse to doing any thing else than fish, and, if the times are bad, are content to potter about their boats and fishing -gear till better days, much as they would wait for wind and tide. If they can not go fishing they had as lief do nothing, though want threatens. The boys take to the water by instinct. I saw one adrift in a boat with- out oars, making his way to land by tilting the side of the dory. They go to the fishing-banks with their fathers, and can hand, reef, and steer with an old salt. One traveler tells of a Provincetown cow-boy who captured and killed a blackfish he descried near the shore. As soon as they had strength to pull in a fish, they were put on board a boat. I noticed the familiar names that have been transplanted and thriven ev- erywhere. Those of Atwood, Nickerson, Newcomb, Rich, Ryder, Snow, and Doane have the Cape ring about them. In general they are " likely " men, as the phrase here is, getting on as might be expected of a people who liter- ally cast their bread upon the waters, and live on a naked crust of earth that the sea is forever gnawing and growling at. The girls are pretty. I say it on the authority of an expert in such matters who accompanied me. Not all are sandy-haired. There is a strong dash of humor about these people. They are jjiquant Capers, dry and sharp as the sand. One of them was relating that he had once watched for so long a time that he finally fell asleep while crossing the street to his boarding-house, and on going to bed had not waked for twenty- four hours. " Wa'al," said an old fellow, removing a short pipe from between his lips, " you was jest a-cannin' on it up, warn't ye ?" There is quite a colony of Portuguese in Provincetown. In my rambles I met with a band of them returning from the swamp region back of the town. They looked gypsy-like with their swarthy faces and gleaming eyes. The younger women had clear olive complexions, black eyes, and the elon- gated Madonna faces of their race; the older ones were grisly and witch-like, with shriveled bodies and wrinkled faces. All of them bore bundles of fag- ots on their heads that our tender women Avould have sunk under, yet they did not seeni in the least to mind them. They chattered merrily as they passed by me, and I watched them until out of sight; for, picturesque objects anywhere, here they were doubly so. They had all gaudy handkerchiefs tied about their heads, and shawls worn sash-wise, and knotted at the hip, the brio-ht bits of warm color contrasting kindly Avith the dead white of the sand. I PROVINCETOWN. 313 _^.^|^^ There were shapely figures among tlieni, but tlio men's boots they of necessi- ty wore subtracted a little fi'om the symmetry of outline and my admiration. They number about fifty families — these Portuguese— and are increasin<'-. One citizen expressed a vague apprehension lest they should exclude, event- ually, the whites, as the whites had expelled the Indians. And why not? They believe in large families, while Ave believe in small ones or none at all. The Pilgrims were fewer than they when they came to Cape Cod, thoufjli they did believe in large families. Besides, Gaspard Cortereal, a "Portin- gale," fell in with the land hereabouts before any of our English. The Portu- guese are reported to liave stocked Sable Island with domestic animals thir- ty years before Gilbert's coming to NeAvfoundland.' Assuredly, Cortereal had as good a mortgage on the country as Cabot, who did not land, but only beheld it in sail- ing by. I had ^-=r— _ found the town effervescent. The killing of a Portu- guese by his cap- tain, in a quarrel on board a fish- ing vessel, had set the whole town talking. Coming from the city, where we aver- age a murder a week, I was quite startled at the measure of hor- ror and indigna- tion the deed ex- cited here. Sub- sequently I learned that such crimes Avere rare, and that in this out-of-the-Avay corner of the land people had quite old-fashioned notions about the value of human life and limb. The cod and mackerel fisheries have been the making of ProvincetOAvn, though they complained of dull times Avhen I Avas there, the fleet not number- ing more than fifty or sixty sail. Some schooners go whaling to the Gulf of Mexico, Western Islands, or far up the north coast ; but the fares there are poor, they say, and growing poorer. The first mackerel exhibited in the spring in Boston market are taken in Provincetown Harbor. MACKEKEL. — A FAMILA' GROUP. ' ChamjJain confirms this. 314 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. Former travelers have observed that the art as well as the name of hay- making was applied to the curing of the cod here, the fish, when made, being stacked in the same manner. Cattle are reported to have sometimes eaten them in lieu of salt hay. When the fishing season was at its height, it must have been something to have seen — the length and breadth of the town over- spread with cod-fish, occupying the front yards and intervals between the houses, A goodwife then, instead of going to the garden for vegetables, would bring in a cod-fish from the flakes. Then the hook was well baited. I suppose the phrase " cod-fish aristocracy " did not originate on the Cape, but may have a more ancient beginning than is generally believed, as the Dutch were, in the year 1347, engaged in a civil war which lasted many years, the rival parties being called " Hooks " and " Cod-fish," respectively. The former supported Margaret, Countess of Holland; the latter, William, her son. Champlain relates that the Indians, in this bay, fished for cod with lines made of bark, to which a bone hook was attached, the bone being fashioned like a harpoon, and fastened to a piece of wood with what he believed to be hemp, such as they had in France. Bass, blue-fish, and sturgeon were taken by spearing. A fish dinner is eaten at least once a week by every family in New En- gland. In Catholic countries the supply of dried fish is usually exhausted by the end of Lent. We have seen that Bradford received a Jesuit at his own table, and regaled him with a fish dinner because it was Friday, a piece of old-time courtesy some Avould have us think the Pilgrims incapable of. Some- what later they had a law in Massachusetts banishing Jesuits or other Roman Catholic ecclesiastics out of their jurisdiction on pain of death. In effect, the cod-fish is to New England what roast beef is to old Albion. The likeness of one is hanging in the State-house at Boston, as the symbol of a leading Massachusetts industry. Down East the girls carry bits of it in their pockets, and it is set on the bar-room counters for luncheon. A Yankee can fatten on it where an Englishman would starve. The statement is fortified by what we call the truth of history. In 1714 her Majesty of England concluded a peace with her restless neigh- bor across the Channel ; or, as Pope rhymes it, "At length great Anna said, 'Let discord cease;' She said, the world obey'd, and all was peace." This was the famous treaty that Matthew Prior, the negotiator- poet, calls " the d — d Peace of Utrecht." Prior went to Paris with Bolingbroke. Hav- ing arrived there during Lent, he was, by an edict, permitted to have roast beef as a mark of royal favor, and on, I presume, his own application. I res- cue this morceau from the abyss of state archives : "Nous Baron de Breteuil et de Preuilly, premier Baron de Touraine, Con' PROVINCETOWN. 315 du Roy en ses Conseils, Introducteur des Ambassadeurs et Princes Etvangeres pres de Sa Ma"^; Enjoignons au Boucher de I'Hutel de Dieu de fournir pen- dant le Careme an prix ordinaire^ suivant I'ordre du Roy, toute la viande de Boucherie, et Rotisserie qui sera necessaire pour la subsistance de la maison de plenipotentiaire de la Reyne de la Grande Bretagne, M. Prior.'" If the great staple of New England is so firmly associated with the Cape, its claims in another direction deserve also to be remembered. The whale- fishery of New England had its beginning here. The hook caught those leviathans as the Penobscot weirs catch salmon. It was long afterward that Nantucket bristled with harpoons. That sea-girt isle borrowed her art of the Cape, and induced a professor in whale-craft, Ichabod Paddock by name, to come over and teach it to her. The Pilgrims would have begun on the instant, but they had not the gear. The Indians followed it in their primi- tive way, and the exploring parties saw them stripping blubber from a strand- ed blackfish exactly as now practiced. POND VILLAGE, CAPE COD. During the years the whales swam along the shore by Cape Cod there was good fishing in boats. Watchmen stationed on the hills gave notice by signals when one was in sight. After some time they passed farther off on the banks, and sloops carrying whale-boats were used. Cotton Mather refers to the fishery here. Douglass notes a whale struck on the back of Cape Cod that yielded one hundred and thirty-four barrels of oil. In 1739 six small whales were taken in Provincetown Harbor. In 174G not more than three or four whales were taken on the Cape. The first Avhaling adventure to the Falkland Islands is referred to the ' Prior was personally acceptable to Louis XIV., who gave liim a diamond box with his por- trait. He was also well known to Boileau. 316 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. enterprise of two inhabitants of Truro, who received the hint from Admiral Montague, of the British navj^, in 1774/ Tliis admiral, commonly called "Mad Montague," was a character. There is an anecdote of his causing his coxswain to put the hands of some drowned Dutch sailors in their pockets, and then betting fifty guineas to five they died thus. The only reminiscence of whaling that I saw in Provincetown was a gate-way formed of the ribs of a whale before the door of a cottage. Over the house-door was a gilded eagle, of wood, tliat had decorated some luckless craft. At the tavern the door was kept ajar by a curiously carved whale's tooth wedged underneath. My landlord, gray-haired, but still straight and sinewy, remarked, as he saw me examining it, " I struck that fellow." But what I came to see here was the desert, and I had not yet seen it. Turning my back upon the town, I set out for Race Point, three miles dis- tant. The last house I passed — and this was a slaughter-house — had the sign-board of a ship, the Plymouth Hock, nailed above the lintel. For a certain distance the path was easy to follow ; it then became obscure, and I finally lost it altogether; but the sea on the Atlantic side was always roaring a hoarse halloo. It was never before my fortune to thread so curious and at the same time so desolate a way as this. It filled up the pictures of my reading of the coasts of Barbary or of Lower Egypt. I first crossed a range of sand-hills thinly grown with beach-plum, whortleberry, brake, and sheep laurel, or wild rhododendron.'^ Now and then there was a grove of stunted pitch-pines on the hill-sides, and upon descending I found the hollows occnj^ied by swamps more or less extensive, where the growth was denser and the stagnant water dotted with white blossoming lilies. There were also clumps of the fra- grant Avhite laurel in full bloom. In such places the bushes grew thickly, and I had to force my way through them. The largest of these sunken ponds is named Shank Painter. Seeing what a share they have in preserving Provincetown, I shall always respect a bog or a morass. Over on the shore, between Race Point and Wood End, they have Shank Painter Bar. Here and there in the swamp were clearings of an acre or two planted with cranberry-vines, which yield a handsome return. It was blossoming-time, and the ground was starred with their delicate Avhite flow- ers, having the corolla rolled back, as seen in the tiger-lily. I found ripe blue- berries growing close to the sand, and wild strawberries, of excellent flavor, on the borders of cranberry meadow^s. An account says, cows might once be seen " wading, and'even swimming, in these ponds, plunging their heads into the water up to their horns, picking up a scanty subsistence from the roots ' Captain David Smith and Captain Gamaliel Collins. ^ In old times a decoction of checkerberry leaves was given to lambs poisoned by eating the yonng leaves of the laurel in spring. PROVINCETOWN. 317 and herbs produced in the water." I saw birch, maple, and a few otlier forest trees of stinted growth in the swamp, and stumps of very large pines that had been, perhaps, many times covered and uncovered by sand.' Cranberry culture, already briefly alluded to, has become an important in- dustry on Cape Cod. It is pleasant to see the pickers busily gathering the fruit for market, a labor performed almost wholly by females. An instru- ment called a cranberry-rake was formerly used; but as it bruised the fruit, it has been discarded for hand-picking. Very little outlay is necessary in the preparation of a cranberry-bed, and much less labor than is usual with ordi- ^v^:^,,^ ■t PICKING AND SOKTING CKANBEUltlES — CAPE COD. •£;'fW^^ .. >. ^- nary farm crops, while the return is much greater. Here the visitor is aston- ished at seeing the vine producing abundantly in what appears to be pure white sand. These cranberry plantations are very profitable. Captain Henry Hull, of Barnstable, was one of the earliest cultivators on the Cape. Thougli it was raw and windy the marsh-flies bit shrewdly. After pass- ing over the first hills beyond Shank Painter, a very different scene present- ed itself. Here was a stretch of lofty mounds of clean white sand, five miles in length and a mile and a half in breadth, bare of all vegetation, except scanty patches of beach grass. There was no longer a path, and thougli I ' There is an autlientic account of ice being found here on the 4th of July, 1741. 318 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. saw occasional foot-priuts, I did not meet any one. A carriage would be of no use where a horse would sink to his knees in the sand. It was Equality- Lane, where pau- A--"= '--_ ^ per or millionaire :°;^gs^ must trudge for .1^^^ '^"^ = it. In some places the sand was soft and yielding, and again it was so hard beaten by the wind that the foot- fall would scarcely leave an impres- sion. Scrambling to the summit of one of the highest hills, I found my- self overlooking a remarkable hol- low comi:»letely surrounded with sandy walls. A Bedouin might have been at home here, but ship- wrecked sailors would wander aim- lessly, until, caught in some such cul-de-sac^ they gave up the ghost in de- spair. In wintry storms the route is impracticable. The tourist who has never been to Naples may here do Vesuvius in poco^ taking care to empty his shoes after sliding from the top to the bottom of a sand-hill. The beach grass, I noticed, resembled the buffalo grass of the plains. It grew at equal distances, even in spots where it had seeded itself. It is the sheet-anchor of the Cape ; for, now that the woods are nearly gone, there is nothing else to prevent this avalanche of sand from advancing and over- whelming every thing in its way. Why may not the cotton-wood, which prop- agates itself in the sand on the borders of Western rivers, prove a valuable auxiliary here? I have known a newly formed sand-bar in the Missouri be- come a well-wooded island in ten years. There, the tree grows to a great size, and seems to care little for the kind of soil it gets. The poplar (of the same species) flourished well, I saw, in Provincetown and elsewhere on the Cape. The experiment is worth the trying. In Dr. Belknap's account of Provincetown, printed in 1791, he says of this SAND-HILLS, PKOVINCETOWN. PROVINCETOWN. 319 range of sand-hills : "This volume of sand is gradually rolling into the woods with the winds, and as it covers the trees to the tops, they die. The tops of the trees appear above the sand, but they are all dead. Where they have been lately covered the bark and twigs are still remaining; from others they have fallen off; some have been so long whipped and worn out with the sand and winds that there is nothing remaining but the hearts and knots of the trees; but over the greater part of this desert Ihe trees have long since dis- appeared." The tops of the dead trees mentioned by Dr. Belknap, the rem- nant of the forest seen here by the Pilgrims, have been cut off for fuel, until few, if any, are to be seen. After crossing the wilderness, I came to the shore. It was blowing half a gale, the sea being roughened by it, but not grand. There was but little drift, and that such "unconsidered trifles" of the sea as the vertebrae of fishes, jelly- fish, a few tangled bunches of weed, and some pretty pebbles. Looking up and down the beach, I discovered one or two wreckers seeking out the night's harvest; and presently there came a cart in which were a man and woman, the man ever and anon jumping out to gather up a little bundle of drift-wood, with which he ran back to the cart, followed by a shaggy Newfoundland dog that barked and gamboled at his side. These wreckers claim what they have discovered by placing crossed sticks upon the heap, the mark being respected by all who come after. I followed the bank by the verge of the beach, the tide having but just turned. Before me was the light-house, and the collection of huts at Race Point. A single vessel, bound for a Southern port, was in sight, that, after standing along, gunwale under, within half a mile of the shore, filled away on the other tack, rounding the point in good style. A hundred yards back of the usual high-water mark were well-defined lines of drift, indicating the limit where the sea in great storms had forced its way. I passed a group of huts, used perhaps at times by fishermen, and at others as a shelter for shipwrecked mariners. The doors were open, and, notwithstanding a palisade of barrel- staves, the sand had drifted to a considerable depth within. Here also were pieces of a vessel's bulwarks, the first vestiges of wreck I had seen. In 1802 the Humane Society erected a hut of refuge at the head of Stout's Creek; but it being improperly built with a chimney, and placed on a spot where no beach grass grew, the strong winds blew the sand from its founda- tion, and the weight of the chimney brought it to the ground. A few weeks later the ship Brutus was cast away. Had the hut remained, it is probable the whole of the unfortunate crew might have been saved, as they gained the shore within a few rods of the spot where it had stood. Upon such trifles the lives of men sometimes depend. The curvature of the shore south of Race Point, by which I was walking, is called Herring Cove. There is good anchorage here, and vessels may ride safely when the wind is from north-east to south-east. The shore between 320 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. Race Point and Stout's Creek, in Truro, was formerly considered the most dano-erous on the Cape. Since the erection of Race Point Light, disasters have been less frequent. An attempt to penetrate through the hills to Prov- incetown by night would be attended with danger, especially in the winter season, but by day the steeple of the Methodist church is always in sight from the highest sand-hills. Freeman, in his " History of Cape Cod," relates an occurrence that hap- pened here in 1722. A sloop from Duxbury, in which the Rev. John Robin- son and wife, and daughter Mary, had taken passage, was upset by a sudden tempest near Nantasket Beach, at the entrance of Boston Harbor. The body of Mrs. Robinson was found " in Herring Cove, a little within Race Point," by Indians, about six weeks after the event. It was identified by papers found in the stays, and by a gold necklace, that had been concealed from the natives by the swelling of the neck. A finger had been cut off, doubtless for the gold ring the unfortunate lady had worn. The winter of 1874-'75 will be memorable in New England beyond the present generation, the extreme cold having fast locked up a greater number of her harbors than was ever before known. Provincetown, that is so provi- dentially situated to receive the storm-tossed mariner, was hermetically seal- ed by a vast ice-field, which extended from Wood End to Manomet, a dis- tance of twenty-two miles, grasping in its icy embrace all intermediate shores and havens. In the neighborhood of Provincetown a fleet of fishing vessels that was unable to reach the harbor became immovably imbedded in the lloe, thus realizing at our very doors all the perils of Arctic navigation. A few were released by the aid of a steam-cutter, but by far the greater number remained helplessly imprisoned without other change than that caused by the occasional drift of the ice-floe in strong gales. The sight was indeed a novel one. "Where before was the expanse of blue- water, nothing could now be seen except the white slab, pure as marble, which entombed the harbors. All within the grasp of the eye was a Dead Sea. Flao-s of distress were displayed in every direction from the masts of crip- pled vessels that no help could reach. Their hulls, rigging, and tapering spars were so ice-crusted as to resemble ships of glass. As many as twenty sio'nals of distress were counted at one time from the life-saving station at Provincetown. Some of these luckless craft were crushed and sunk to the bottom ; others were abandoned by their crews, who had eaten their last crust and burned the bulwarks of their vessels for fuel. The remainder were at length released by the breaking-up of the ice-floe, which only relaxed its grip after having held them fast for a month. It would not be extravagant to say that the beach on the ocean side, be- tween Highland Light and Wood End, was strewed with wrecks. Vessel after vessel was daslied into pieces by waves that bore great blocks of drift-ice to aid in the work of destruction. One starless morning the James Hommell PROVINCETOWN. 321 struck between Highland Liglit and Race Point. Instantly the ice-laden surges leaped upon her decks. Wood and iron were crushed like paper un- der the blows of sea and ice. The help- less vessel was forced sidewise toward the beach, where the waves began heap- ing np the loose sand on the leeward side, until it reached as high as her decks. When the vessel struck, the crew clambered up the rigging, and all were saved, in a perishing condi- tion, with the help of rescuing hands from the life station. One poor fellow dropped dead on the shore he had periled life to gain, a frozen corpse. In twenty -four hours there was no more left of the James Ronxmell than could be carried away in the wreck- ers' carts. But saddest of all was the loss of the Italian bark Giovanni. After eighty-one days of stormy voyage from Palermo, a terrible gale, which tore the frozen sails in shreds from her masts, drove her npon this dangerous coast. In the midst of a blinding snow-storm, the unmanageable vessel was borne steadily and mercilessly upon the shore. When she struck, the shock brought down portions of her rigging, leaving her a dismantled wreck. Her crew could see people moving about on the beach, but no human power could aid them. Soon the Giovanni began to sink into the sandy grave the waves were fast digging to receive her hull, and the seas sweeping her decks raged around the rigging, in which the sailors had taken refuge. One by one they were picked off by the waves. The wreckers' bombs failed to bring a line to them. A few of the ship's company 322 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. made a desperate push for the beach, which only one reached alive. All night long the wreckers kept their watch by the shore, hoping the gale might abate ; but sea and wind beat and howled as wnldly as before. When it was light enough to descry the Giovanni, six objects could be seen cling- ing in the rigging. The ship, it was perceived, was fast breaking up. God lielp them, for no other could ! The spectators saw these poor fellows perish before their eyes. They saw the overstrained masts bend and shiver and break, crashing in ruin down upon the shattered hull. The next day only a piece of the bow remained, sticking up like a grave-stone on the reef. Of the Giovanni's crew of fifteen only the one mentioned escaped. He could not speak a syllable of English, but was able, by signs, to identify the body of his captain, when it came ashore. The other bodies that came in wei'e laid out in Provincetown church, three miles from the scene of the wreck. Stray portions of the ship's cargo of wine and fruit were washed up, and while any of the former was to be had the beach was not safe to be traversed. In the midst of this carnival of death, men drunk with wine wan- dered up and down in the bitter cold, intent upon robbery and violence. One or more of these beach pirates were found dead, the victims of their own de- bauch. The configuration of the shores of the Cape on the Atlantic side is very different from what was observed by early voyagers. The Isle Nauset of Smith has, for more than a century, been " wiped out " by the sea.* Inlets to harbors have in some cases been closed and other passages opened, as at East- ham and Orleans. In 1863 remains of the hull of an ancient ship were uncov- ered at Nauset Beach in Orleans, imbedded in the mud of a meadow a quarter of a mile from any water that would have floated her. Curiosity was aroused by the situation as well as the singular build of the vessel, and what was left of her was released from the bed in which, it is believed, it had been inclosed for more than two centuries. A careful writer considers it to have been the wreck of the Sparroio-hawk, mentioned by Bradford as having been stranded here in 1626.' There are generally two ranges of sand-bars on the ocean side of the Cape ; the outward being about thi-ee-fourths of a mile from shore, and the inner range five hundred yards. As in the case of the ill-fated Giovanni, a vessel usually brings up on the outer bar, and pounds over it at the next tide, mere- ly to encounter the inward shoal. Between these two ranges a tremendous cross-sea is always running in severe gales, and, if the wind has continued ' When the English first settled upon the Cape there was an island off Chatham, three leagues distant, called Webb's Island. It contained twenty acres, covered with red-cedar or savin. The Nantucket people resorted to it for fire-wood. In 1792, as Dr. Morse relates, it had ceased to exist for nearly a century. "A large rock," he says, "that was upon the island, and which settled as the earth washed away, now marks the place." " Amos Otis, in the "New England Historical and Genealogical Register," 1865. PROVINCETOWN. 323 long from the same quarter, causing also a current that will float the debris of a wreck along the shore faster than a man can walk. With the wind at south-east the wreck stuff will not land, but is carried rapidly to the north- west. Shipwrecked mariners have to cross this hell gate to reach the beach. The mortars used at the life-stations will not carry a life-line to a vessel at five hundred yards from the shore in the teeth of a gale, and are therefore useless at that distance ; but if the wreck is fortunate enough to be lifted over tlie inner bar by the sea, it will strike the beach at a distance where it is practica- ble to save life under ordinary contingencies. So great are the obstacles to be overcome on this shoi-e, that there is no part of the New England coast, Nantucket perhaps excepted, where a sailor would not rather suffer shipwreck. Standing here, I felt as if I had not lived in vain. I was as near Europe as my legs would carry me, at the extreme of this withered arm with a town in the hollow of its hand. You seem to have invaded the domain of old Nep- tune, and plucked him by the very beard. For centuries the storms have beaten upon this narrow strip of sand, behind which the commerce of a State lies intrenched. The assault is unflagging, the defense obstinate. Fresh col- umns are always forming outside for the attack, and the roll of ocean is for- ever beating the charge. Yet the Cape stands fast, and will not budge. It is as if it should say, "After me the Deluge." ->S!!^j^ = '". ■ " ' A "SUNFISU. NANTUCKET, FROM THE SEA. CHAPTER XX. NANTTJCKET. "God bless the sea-beat island! And grant for evermore That charity and freedom dwell, As now, upon her shore." — Whittxer. THE sea-port of Nantucket, every body knows, rose, flourished, and fell Avitli the whale-fishery. It lies snugly ensconced in the bottom of a bay on the north side of the island of the name, with a broad sound of water be- tween it and the nearest main-land of Cape Cod. The first Englishman to leave a distinct record of it was Captain Dermer, who was here in 1620, though Weymouth probably became entangled among Nantucket Shoals in May, 1605. The relations of Archer and Brereton render it at least doubtful whether this island was not the first on which Gosnold landed, and to which he gave the name of Martha's Vineyard. The two accounts are too much at variance to enable the student to bring them into reciprocal agreement, yet that of Archer, being in the form of a diary, in which each day's transactions are noted, will be preferred to the narrative of Brereton, who wrote from rec- ollection. To these the curious reader is referred.' The name of " Nautican " is the first I have found applied to Nantucket ' Purchas, iv. ; reprinted in " Massachusetts Historical Collections," iii., viii. I can not give space to those points that confirm my view, but they make a strong presumptive case. It has been alleged that De Poutrincourt landed here after his conflict with the Indians of Cape Cod. So far from landing on the island they saw, Champlain says they named it "Za Soup^onneuse" from the doubts they had of it. Lescarbot adds that "they saw an island, six or seven leagues in length, which they were not able to reach, and so called '//e Douteuse.' " The land, it is probable, was the Vineyard, NANTUCKET. 325 Island.' Whether the derivation is from tlie Latin nautims, ov a corruption of the Indian, is disputed, though the word lias an unmistakably Indian sound and construction.' In the patents and other documents it is called Nantukes, Mantukes, or Nantucquet Isle, indifferently, showing, as may be suggested, as many efforts to construe good Indian into bad English. Previous to Gos- nold's voyage the English had no knowledge of it, nor were the names Ik- map OF CAPE COD, NANTUCKET, AND MAUTHA'S VINEYAKD. gave the isles discovered by him in general use until long afterward. One other derivation is too far-fetched for serious consideration, a mere Jc?^ de mot, to which all readers of Gosnold's voyage are insensible. Historians and an- tiquaries having alike failed to solve these knotty questions, it is proposed » By Sir F. Gorges. " Nuiitasket, Naiuasket, Naushon, Sawtuckett, are Iiulian. 326 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST, to refer them to a council of Spiritualists, with power to send for persons and papers. Those who wish to enjoy a foretaste of crossing the British Channel may- have it by going to Nantucket. The passage aftbrds in a marked degree the peculiarities of a sea-voyage, and, in rough weather, is not exempt from its drawbacks. The land is nearly, if not quite, lost to view. You are on the real ocean, and the remainder of the voyage to Europe is mei'ely a few more revo- lutions of the paddles. You have enjoyed the emotions incident to getting under way, of steering boldly out into the open sea, and of tossing for a few hours upon its billows : the rest is but a question of time and endurance. Every one is prepossessed with Nantucket. Its isolation from the world surrounds it with a mysterious haze, that is the more fascinating because it exacts a certain faith in the invisible. Inviting the imagination to depict it for us, is far more interesting than if we could, by going down to the shore, see it any day. In order to get to it we must steer by the compass, and in thick weather look it up with the plummet. In brief, it answers many of the conditions of an undiscovered country. Although laid down on every good map of New England, and certified by the relations of many trustworthy writers, it is not enough ; we do not know Nantucket. APPROACH TO MAKTHA'S VINEYARD. No brighter or sunnier day could be wished for than the one on which the Island Home steamed out from Wood's Hole into the Vineyard Sound for the sea-girt isle. Besides the usual complement of health and pleasure seek- ers was a company of strolling players, from Boston, as they announced them- selves — a very long way indeed, I venture to affirm. These " abstracts and brief chronicles of the time" were soon "well bestowed" on the cabin sofas, the rising sea making it at least doubtful whether they would be able to per- form before a Nantucket audience so soon as that night. From the old salt NANTUCKET. 327 who rang the bell and urged immediate attendance at the captain's office, to the captain himself, with golden rings in his ears, and the Indian girl who officiated as stewardess, the belongings of the Island Home afloat were spiced with a novel yet agreeable foretaste of the island home fast anchored in the Atlantic. The sail across the Vineyard Sound is more than beautiful ; it is a poem. Trending away to the west, the Elizabeth Islands, like a gate ajar, half close the entrance into Buzzard's Bay. Among them nestles Cuttyhunk, where the very first English spade was driven into New England soil.' Straight over in front of the pathway the steamer is cleaving the Vineyard is looking its best and greenest, with oak-skirted highlands inclosing the sheltered harbor of Vineyard Haven,* famous on all this coast. Edgartown is seen at the bot- tom of a deep indentation, its roofs gleaming like scales on some huge reptile that has crawled out of the sea, and is basking on the warm yellow sands. Chappaquiddick Island, with its sandy tentacles, terminates in Cape Poge, on which is a light-house. Between the shores, and as far as eye can discern, the fleet that passes almost without intermission is hurrying up and down the Sound. One col- umn stretches away under bellying sails, like a fleet advancing in line of bat- tle, but the van-guard is sinking beneath the distant waves. Still they come and go, speeding on to the appointed mart, threading their way securely among islands, capes, and shoals. Much they enliven the scene. A sea with- out a sail is a more impressive solitude than a deserted city. We ran between the two sandy points, long and low, that inclose the har- bor into smoother water. The captain went on the guard. "Heave your bow-line." "Ay, ay, sir." "Back her, sir" (to the pilot). "Hold on your spring." "Stop her." "Slack away the bow-line there." "Haul in." It is handsomely done, and this is Nantucket. The wharf, I should infer, would be the best place in which to take the census of Nantucket. No small proportion of the inhabitants were assem bled at the pier's head, waiting the arrival of the boat. You had first to make your way through a skirmishing line of hack-drivers and of boys eager to carry your luggage; then came the solid battalion of citizen idlers, and behind these Avas a reserve of carriages and carts. On the pier you gain the idea that Nantucket is populous ; that what you see is merely the overflow ; whereas it is the wharf that is populous, while the town is for the moment well-nigh deserted. There could be no better expression of the feeling of iso- lation than the agitation produced by so simple an event as the arrival of the daily packet. Doors are slammed, shutters pulled to in a hurry, while a tide of curious humanity pours itself upon the landing-place. The coming steam- ' In 1R02 by the colony of Bartholomew Gosnold. ulieaily so often mentioned in these pages. ' Better known as Holmes's Hole. 328 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. A BIT OF NANTUCKET — THE HOUSE-TOPS. er is heralded by the town-crier's fisli-horn, as soon as descried from the church-tower that is his observatory. In winter, when communication Avith the main-land is sometimes interrupted for several days together, the sense of separation from the world must be intensified.' After running the gantlet of the crowd on the wharf, the stranger is at liberty to look about him. The fire of 1846 having destroyed the business portion of the town, that ])art is not more interesting than the average New England towns of mod- ern growth. Generally speaking, the houses are of wood, the idea of spa- ciousness seeming prominent Avith the builders. Plenty of house-room was no doubt synonymous with plenty of sea-room in the minds of retired ship- masters, whose battered hulks I saw safe moored in snug and quiet harbors. The streets are cleanly, and, having trees and flower-gardens, are often pretty and cheerful. The roofs of many houses are surmounted by a railed platform, a reminder of the old whaling times. Here the dwellers might sit in the cool of the even- ing, and take note of the passing ships, or of some deep-laden whaleman with rusty sides and grimy spars wallowing toward the harbor. Here the merchant anxiously scanned the horizon for tidings of some loitering bark ; and here superannuated skippers paced up and down, as they had done the (juarter-deck. I question if the custom was not first brought here from the ' On the raising of the ice-blockade of the past winter seventeen mails Avere due, the greatest number since 1857, when twenty-five regukir and two semi-monthly mails were landed at Qiiidnet. NANTUCKET. 329 troijics, for in Spanish-talking America the best room is not unfrequently the roof, to which the family resort on sweltering hot nights. Sometimes a storm arises, when the precipitancy with which the sleepers gather up their pallets and seek a shelter is the more amusing if witnessed near day-break. Formerly every other house in Nantucket had one of these lookouts, or a vane at the gable-end, to show if the wind was fair for vessels homeward- bound. Wliile other towns have increased, Nantucket for a length of time has stood still. I saw no evidences of squalid poverty or of actual want, thouo-h there was a striking absence of activity. The fire, of which they still talk, though it happened thirty years ago, can not be traced by such visible re- minders as a mass of new buildings fitted into the burned space, or by a cor- don of old houses drawn around its charred edges. The disaster caused the loss of many handsome buildings, among them Trinity Church, a beautiful little edifice, having latticed windows. If there was no squalor obtruding itself upon the stranger, neither Avas there any display of ostentatious wealth. There were a few large square mansions of brick or wood, and even an aristocratic quarter^ once known as India Row ; but, on the whole, a remarkable equality existed in the houses of Nantucket. The old New England Greek temple greets you familiarly here and there. I read on the sign-boards the well-remembered names of Coffin, Folger, Bunker, Macy, Starbuck, etc., that could belong nowhere else than here. Whenever I have seen one of them in some distant corner of the continent, I have felt like raising the island slogan of other times, "There she blows !" The Nantucket of colonial times was not more like the present than sail- ors in pigtails and high-crowned hats are like the close-cropped, wide-trow- sered tars of to-day. Houses were scattered about without the semblance of order. The streets had never any names until the assessment of the direct tax in the administration of President Adams. Common convenience divided the town into neighborhoods, familiarly known as " Up-in-Town," " West Cove," or "North Shore." An old traveler says the stranger formerly re- ceived direction to Elisha Bunker's Street, or David Mitchell's Street, or Tris- tram Ilussey's Street. The average conversation is still interlarded with such sea phrases as "cruising about," "short allowance," "rigged out," etc. I heard one woman ask for the "bight" of a clothes-line. I had it from credible authority that a Cape Cod girl, when kissed, always presented the other cheek, saying, " You darsent do that again." A Nantucket lass would say, " Sheer off, or I'll split your mainsail with a typhoon." There is a story of a " cute " Nantucket skipper, who boasted he could tell where his schooner might be in the thickest weather, simply by tasting what the sounding-lead brought up. Ilis mates resolved to put him to the test. 330 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. The lead was well greased, and thrust into a box of earth, " a parsnip bed," that had been brought on board before sailing. It was then taken down to the skipper, and he was requested to tell the schooner's position. At the first taste "The skipper stormed, and tore his hair, Thrust on his boots, and roared to Marden, 'Nantucket's sunk, and here we are Eight over old Marm Hackett's garden ! ' " The streets avoid the fatal straight-line, though they are not remarkably- crooked. In the business quarter they are paved with cobble-stones, showing ruts deeply worn by the commerce of other days. Grass was growing out of the interstices of the pavement, where once merchants most did congregate. One of the principal avenues is built along the brow of the sea-bluff, so that almost every house commands a broad sweep of ocean view. The sides of a great many houses were shingled, being warmer, as many will tell you, than if covered with clapboards. As in all maritime towns, the weather-vane is usually a fish, and that, of course, a whale. It is the first thing looked at in the morning by every male inhabitant of the island. Some of the lanes go reeling and twisting about in a remarkable manner. Nantucket was larger than I had expected. The best view of it is ob- tained from tlie side of Coatue. A single old windmill on the summit of a hill behind the town adds to its picturesqueness, and somewhat relieves the too-familiar outlines of roof and steeple. But what, in a place of its size, is most remarkable, is the almost total absence of movement. It impressed me, the time I was there, as uninhabited. There were no troops of joyous chil- dren by day, nor throngs of promenaders by night ; all was listless and still. Here, indeed, was the town, but where were the people ? I Avas not at all surprised when accosted by one who, like me, wandered and Avondered, Avith the question, "Does any body live in Nantucket?" In midwinter, said an old resident to me, you might have a hospital in the town market-place Avith- out danger of disturbing any body. The noise of Avheels rattling over the stony street is not often heard. Owing to the total loss of its great industry, the population of Nantucket is not greater than it Avas a hundred years ago, and not half Avhat it was ear- ly in the century.' A large proportion of the houses, it Avould appear, were unoccupied; yet many that had long remained vacant Avere being thrown open to admit ncAV guests, that are seeking "The breath of a new life — the healing of the seas!" Old brasses were being furbished up, and cobwebs swept away by ncAV and ruthless brooms. The tOAvn is being colonized from the main-land, and ' In 1837 its population was 9048 ; it is now a little more than 4000. NANTUCKET. 33 j though the inhabitants welcome the change, the crust and flavor of orif^inal- ity can not survive it. Ah-eady tlie drift has set in : we may, perhaps, live to see a full-fledged lackey in Nantucket streets. The wharves show the same decay as in Salem and Plymouth, except that here all are about equally dilapidated and grass-grown. Not a whalino- ves- sel of any tonnage to be seen in Nantucket ! The assertion seems incredible. In 1834 there were seventy-three ships and a fleet of smaller craft owned on the island. At this moment a brace of fishing schooners, called smacks, were the largest craft in the harbor. The dispersion of the shipping has been like to that of the inhabitants. I have seen those old whale-ships, with their bluflT bows and flush decks, moored in a long line inside the Golden Gate. There they lay, rotting at their anchors, with topmasts struck, and great holes cut in their sides, big enough to drive a wagon right into their holds. To a lands- man they looked not unlike a fleet in array of battle. Others of these old hulks drifted into such ports as Acapulco and Panama, where they were used for coaling the steamships of that coast; and at Sacra- mento I saw they had converted one into a prison-ship. The last of them re- maining in New England harbors were purchased by the Government, and sunk in rebel harbors, as unfit longer to swim the seas. It is not pleasant to think how the last vestiges of a commerce that carried the fame of the island to the remotest corners of the earth have been swept from the face of the ocean. The whale-ship I was last on board of was the old Peri, of New London, that looked able to sail equally well bow or stern foremost. The brick try- house, thick with soot, remained on deck, the water-butt was still lashed to the mizzen-mast. How she smelled of oil ! Her timbers were soaked Avith it, and, on looking down the hatchway, I could see it floating, in prismatic colors, on the surface of the bilge-water in her hold. Many a whale had been cut up alongside. Her decks were greasy as a butcher's block. Though her spars were aloft, she had a slipshod look that would have vexed a sailor beyond measure. The very manner in which the yards were crossed told as plainly of abandonment as unreeved blocks and slackened I'igging be- tokened a careless indiflerence of her future. In the days of whaling, a different scene presented itself from that now seen on Nantucket wharves. Ships were then constantly going and coming, discharging their cargoes, or getting ready for sea. The quays were encum- bered with butts of oil and heaps of bone. The smith was busy at his forge, the cooper beside himself with work. Let us step into the warehouse. Oil is everywhere. The counting-house ceiling is smeared with it. The walls are hung with pictures of famous whalemen — in oil, of course — coming into port with flags aloft, and I know not how many barrels under their hatches. See the private signal at the mizzen, the foam falling from the bows, and bub- bling astern ! A brave sight ; but become unfrequent of late. 332 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. LAST OF THE WHALE-SHIPS. _j-s^ _": _^^ On the walls are also models or fortunate ships, neatly lettered Avith their names and voyages. I have seen the head and tusks of the walrus af- fixed to them, as the head and antlers of the stag might grace the halls of the huntsmen of the laud. A strip of whalebone ; maps or charts, smoke- blackened, and dotted with greasy finger-marks, indicating where ships bad been spoken, or mayhap gone to Davy Jones's Locker; a South Sea javelin with barbed head, a war club and sheaf of envenomed arrows, or a paddle curiously carved, were the usual paraphernalia appropriate in such a place. In the store-room are all the supplies necessary to a voyage. There are harpoons, lances, and cutting spades, with a rifle or two for the cabin. Coils of rigging, and lines for the boats, with a thousand other objects belonging to the ship's outfitting, are not wanting. According to Langlet, the whale-fishery was first carried on by the Nov- wegians, in the ninth century. Up to the sixteenth century, Newfoundland and Iceland were the fishing-grounds. The use of bone was not known until 15*78 ; consequently, says an old writer, " no stays Avere worn by the ladies." The English commenced whaling at Spitzbergen in 1598, but they had been NANTUCKET. 333 preceded in those seas by the Dutch. As many as two thousand whales a year have been annually killed on the coast of Greenland. Champlain says that in his time it was believed the whale was usually taken by balls fired from a can- non, and that several im- pudent liars had sustained this opinion to his face. The Basques, he contin- ues, were the most skill- ful in this fishery. Leav- ing their vessels in some good harbor, they man- ned their shallops with good men, well provided with lines a hundred and fifty fathoms in length, of the best and strongest hemp. These were at- whaling in the olden time. tached to the middle of the harpoons.' In each shallop was a harpooner, the most adroit and "dispos''^ among them, who had the largest share after the master, inasmuch as his was the most hazardous ofiice. The boats were pro- vided also Avith a number of partisans of the length of a half-pike, shod with an iron six inches broad and very trenchant.* When at Provincetown,! referred to the beginning of the whale-fishery of Nantucket. Ichabod Paddock, in 1690, instructed the islanders how to kill whales from the shore in boats. The Indians of the island joined in the chase, and were as dexterous as any. Early in the eighteenth century small sloops and schooners of thirty or forty tons burden were fitted out, in Mhich the blubber, after being first cut in large square pieces, was brought home, for trying out. In a few years vessels of sixty to eighty tons, fitted Avith try- works, were employed. Douglass gives some additional particulars. About 1746, he says, whalino- * The Dutch also whaled with long ropes, as is now our method. ^ Weymouth also describes tlie Indian manner of taking whales: "One especial thing is their manner of killing the whale, which they call powdawe ; and will describe his form ; how he bloweth np the water ; and that he is twelve fathoms long ; and that they go in company of their King, with a multitude of their boats, and strike him with a bone made in the fashion of a harping-iron, fas- tened to a rope, which they make great and strong of the bark of trees, which they veer out after him ; that all their boats come about him, and as he riseth above water, with their arrows they shoot him to death. When they have killed him and dragged him to shore, they call all their chief lords together, and sing a song of joy ; and these chief lords, whom they call sagamores, divide the spoil, and give to every man a share, which pieces so distributed they liang up about their houses for provision ; and when they boil tliem, they blow otFthe fat, and put to their pease, maize, and other pulse which thej eat. — "Weymouth's Voyage." 334 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. ■WHALE OF THE ANCIENTS. was by sloops or schooners, each carrying two boats and tliirteen men. In every boat were a harpooner, steersman, and four oarsmen, who used nooses for their oars, so tliat by letting them go they would trail alongside when they were fast to a whale. The "fast" was a rope of about twenty-five fath- oms, attached to a drag made of plank, about two feet square, with a stick through its centre. To the end of this stick the tow-rope of fifteen fathoms was fastened.^ It passes without challenge that the isle's men were the most skillful whale- men in the world. The boys, as soon as they could talk, made use of the Indian word "townor," meaning, "I have twice seen the whale ;" and as soon as able they took to the oar, becoming expert oarsmen. Language would inadequately express the triumph of the youngster who landed in his native town after having struck his first whale. The Indian who proudly exhibits his first scalp could not rival him. Thus it happens that you suppose every man in Nantucket can handle the harpoon, and every woman the oar. Nor was it in whaling battles alone that the island prowess made itself famous. Reuben Chase, midshipman of the Bonne Homme Richard in the battle with the Serapis, became, under Mr. Cooper's hand, Long Tom Coffin of "The Pilot." The Revolution was near giving the death-blow to Nantucket. In Feb- ruary, 1775, Lord North brought in his famous bill to restrain the trade and commerce of New England with Great Britain and her dependencies, and to prohibit their fishery on the Banks of Newfoundland.'^ It was represented to Parliament that of the population of the islands, amounting to some thou- sands, nine-tenths were Quakers; that the land was barren, but by astonish- ing industry one hundred and forty vessels were kept employed, of which all but eight were engaged in the whale-fishery.' The inhabitants having been exempted from the restraining act of Parlia- ment, the Continental Congress, in 1775, took steps to prevent the export of provisions to the island from the main-land, except what might be necessary for domestic use. The Provincial Congress of Massachusetts also prohibited the export of provisions until full satisfaction was given that they were not to be used for foreign consumption.* These precautions were necessary, be- cause the enemy's ships made the island a rendezvous. ' Nantucket in 1744 had forty sloops and schooners in the whale-fishery. The catch was seven thousand to ten thousand barrels of oil per annum. There were nine hundred Indians on the isl- and of great use in the fishery. — Douglass, vol. i., p. 405. ^ State papers. ' Gordon, vol. i., p. 463. * Records of Congress. NANTUCKET. 335 Some stigma has attached to the Nantucket Friends for their want of patriotism in the Revolution. Tliey were perhaps in too great haste to ap- ply for the protection of the crown to suit the temper of the day. Justice to their position requires the impartial historian to state that they were at the mercy of the enemy's fleets. They were virtually left to shift for them- selves, and ought not to be censured for making the best terms possible. At the close of hostilities their commerce was, in fact, nearly destroyed. Starved by their friends, now become their enemies, and robbed by their enemies, of whom they had sought to make friends, they were in danger of being ground between the upper and nether millstones of a hard destiny. I well enough remember the first sight I had of whale -ships on their cruising- grounds; of the watchmen in their tubs at the mast-head, where they looked like strange birds in strange nests ; and of the great whales that rose to breathe, casting fountains of spray high in the air. They seemed not more animated than the black hull of a vessel drifting bottom-up, and roll- ing lazily from side to side, until, burying their huge heads deeper, a monster tail was lifted into view, remained an instant motionless, and then, following the rolling plunge of the unwieldy body, sunk majestically beneath the wave. The curious interest with which, from the deck of a matter-of-fact steam- ship, I had watched the indolent gambols and puflings of the school, had caused me to lose sight of the whaleman, until an extraordinary commotion recalled her to my attention. Blocks were rattling, commands quick and sharp were ringing out, and I could plainly see the splash that followed the descent of the boats into the water. Away they went, the ashen blades bending like withes with the energy and vim of the stroke. Erect in the stern, his arms bared to the shoulder, his body inclined forward like a bend- ed bow, was the boat-steerer. I fancied I could hear his voice and see his gestures as he shook his clenched fist in the faces of the boat's crew. This was the boat-steerer's speech : " Now, boys, give it to her ; lay back hard ! Spring hard, I tell you ! There she blows ! Break your backs, you duff-eaters ! Put me right on top of that whale, boys ! There she is, boys — a beauty! One more lift, and hurra for Nantucket bar !" After a weary and fruitless chase — for the whales had sounded — we were boarded by the mate's boat, and requested to report their vessel. I gazed with real curiosity at its crew. Every man had a bandana handkerchief bound tightly about his head. Faces, chests, and arms were the color of old mahogany Avell oiled. They were then two years out, they said, and inquired anxiously for news from the " States." They neither knew who was Presi- dent, nor of the war raging between the great powers of Europe, and were thankful for the old newspapers that we tossed to them. At length they rowed oif, cutting their way through the water with a powerful stroke, their boat mounting the seas like an egg-shell. 336 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. An ancient salt with wliom I talked in Nantucket spoke of the disappear- ance of the Avhales, and of their turning up in new and unexpected waters. From the beginning of the century until tlie decline of the fishery, vessels usually made a straight course for Caj)e Horn ; but of late years, whales, he said, had re-appeared in the Atlantic, making their way, it is believed, through the ISTorth-west Passage. Whales with harpoons sticking in them having the names of vessels that had entered the Arctic by way of Behring's Straits have been taken by other ships on the Atlantic side of the continent. " When I first went whaling," quoth ho, " you might wake up of a morn- ing in the Sea of Japan with fifty sail of whalemen in sight. A fish darsent (durst not) show his head : some ship would take him." "I have gone on deck off the Cape of Good Hope," he continued, " when we hadn't a bar'l of ile in the ship, an' the whales nearly blowin' on us out o' the water. We took in twelve hundred bar'ls afore we put out the fires." Now, though they burn coal-oil in Nantucket, I believe they would pre- fer sperm. You could not convince an islander that the discovery of oil in the coal-fields was any thing to his advantage ; nor would he waste words Avith you about the law of compensations. A few, I was told, still cling to the idea of a revival in the whale-fishery, but the greater number regard it as clean gone. I confess to a weakness for oil of sperm myself. There are the recollections of a shining row of brazen and pewter lamps on the mantel, the despair of house-maids. In coal-oil there is no poetry; Shakspeare and Milton did not study, nor Ben Jonson rhyme, by it. Napoleon did not dictate nor Nelson die by the light of it. Nowadays there are no lanterns, no torches, Avorthy the name. As there is not enough depth of water on Nantucket bar for large ships, Edgartown Harbor was formerly resorted to by the whalemen of this island, to obtain fresh water and fit their ships for sea. If they returned from a voyage in winter, they were obliged to discharge their cargoes into lighters at Edgartown before they could enter Nantucket Harbor. One of the Nan- tucket steeples was constructed with a lookout commanding the whole island, from which the watchman might, it is said, with a glass, distinguish vessels belonging here that occasionally came to anchor at Martha's Vineyard. In time a huge floating dock that could be submerged, called a camel, was employed to bring vessels over the bar. After going on its knees and taking the ship on its back, the camel was pumped free of water, when both came into port. These machines are not of Yankee invention. They were originated by the celebrated De Witt, for the purpose of conveying large ves- sels from Amsterdam over the Pampus. They were also introduced into Russia by Peter the Great, who had obtained their model while working as a common shipwright in Holland. As invented, the camel was composed of two separate parts, each having a concave side to embrace the ship's hull, to which it was fastened with strong cables. NANTUCKET. 337 The harbors of Edgartown, New London, and New Bedford, not beint,' subject to the inconvenience of a bar before them, flourished to some extent :it the expense of Nantucket ; but all these ports have shared a common fate. The gold fever of 1849 broke out when whaling was at its ebb, and then scores of whale - ships for the last time doubled Cape Horn, Officers and men drifted into other employments, or continued to follow the sea in some less dangerous service. They were considered the best sailors in the world. I remember one athletic Islesman, a second-mate, who quelled a mutiny single- handed with sledge-hammer blows of his fist. When his captain appeared on deck with a brace of ])istols, the affray was over. The ringleader bore the inarks of a terrible punishment. "You've a heavy hand, Mr. Blank," said Captain G . " I'm a Nantucket whaleman, and used to a long dart." At the Nantucket Athenaeum are exhibited some relics of whales and whaling, of which all true islanders love so well to talk. The jaw-bone of a sperm-whale may there be seen. It would have made Samson a better weap- on than the one he used with such effect against the Philistines. This whale stores the spermaceti in his cheek. You can compress the oil from it with the hand, as from honey-comb. What is called the "case" is contained in the reservoir he carries in his head, from which barrels of it are sometimes dipped. What does he want with it? Or is it, mayhap, a softening of his great, sluggish brain ? The tremendous power the whale is able to put forth Avhen enraged is illustrated by the tale of a collision with one that resulted in the loss of the ship Essex^ of Nantucket. On the 13th of November, 1820, the ship was among whales, and three boats were lowered. A young whale was taken. Shortly after, another of great size, supposed to have been the dam of the one just killed, came against the ship with such violence as to tear away part of the false keel. It then remained some time alongside, endeavoring to grip the ship in its jaws; but, failing to make any impression, swam off about a quarter of a mile, when, suddenly turning about, it came with tremendous velocity toward the Essex. The concussion not only stopped the vessel's way, but actually forced her astern. Every man on deck was knocked down. The bows were completely stove. In a few minutes the vessel filled and went on her beam-ends. Near one of the principal wharves is the Custom-house. It is situated nt the bottom of the square already referred to, of Avhich the Pacific Bank, established in 1805, occupies the upper end, the sides being bordered by shops. The first-floor of the Custom-house is used by a club of retired ship- masters, in M'hich they meet to recount the perils and recall the spoils of whaling battles. We are told by Macy, the historian of the island, that " the inhabitants live together like one great fatnily. They not only know their nearest neigli- 22 338 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. bors, but each one knows the rest. If you wish to see any man, you need but ask the first inhabitant you meet, and he will be able to conduct you to his residence, to tell you what occupation he is of, etc., etc." If one house en- tertained a stranger, the neighbors would send in whatever luxuries they might have. After a lapse of nearly forty years, I found Macy's account still true. All questionings were answered with civility and directness, and, as if that were not enough, persons volunteered to go out of their way to conduct me. In a whaling port there is no cod-fish aristocracy. Thackeray could not have found materials for his " Book of Snobs" in Nantucket, though, if rumor may be believed, a few of the genus are dropping in from the main- land. I observed nothing peculiar about the principal centre of trade, except the manner of selling meat, vegetables, etc. When the butchers accumulate an overstock of any article they dispose of it by auction, the town-crier being dispatched to summon the inhabitants, greeting. This functionary I met, swelling with importance, but a trifle blown from the frequent sounding of his clarion, to wit, a japanned fish-horn. Met him, did I say? I beg the indulgence of the reader. Wherever I wandered in my rambles, he was sure to turn the corner just ahead of me, or to spring from the covert of some blind alley. He was one of those who, Macy says, knew all the other inhabitants of the island; me he knew for a stranger. He stopped short. First he wound a terrific blast of his horn. Toot, toot, toot, it echoed down the street, like the discordant braying of a donkey. This he followed with lusty ringing of a large dinner-bell, peal on peal, until I was ready to exclaim with the Moor, " Silence that dreadful bell ! it frights the isle From her pi'opriety." Then, placing the fish-horn under his arm, and taking the bell by the tongue, he delivered himself of his formula. I am not likely to forget it : " Two boats a day ! Burgess's meat auction this evening ! Corned beef! Boston Theatre, positively last night this evening !" He was gone, and I heard bell and horn in the next street. He was the life of Nantucket while I was there ; the only inhabitant I saw moving faster than a moderate walk. They said he had been a soldier, discharged, by his own account, for being " non compos^'' or something of the sort. I doubt there is any thing the matter with his lungs, or that his wits are, " like sweet bells jangled, out of tune and harsh ;" yet of his fish-horn I would say, "O would I might turn poet for an houre, To satirize with a vindictive powere Against the blower !'' The history of Nantucket is not involved in obscurity, though Dr. Morse, NANTUCKET. 339 in his Gazetteer^ printed in 1793, says no mention is made of the discovery and settlement of the island, under its present name, by any of our historians. Its settlement by English goes no further back than 1659, when Thomas Macy' removed from Salisbury, in Massachusetts, to the west end of the island, called by the Indians Maddequet, a name still retained by the harbor and fishin"- hamlet there. Edward Starbuck, James Coffin, and another of the name of Daget, or Daggett, came over from Martha's Vineyard, it is said, for the sake of the gunning, and lived with Macy. At that time there were nearly three thousand Indians on the island. Nantucket annals show what kind of sailors may be made of Quakers. The illustration is not unique. In the same year that Macy came to the isl- and a ship wholly manned by them went from Newfoundland to Lisbon with fish. Some of them much affronted the Portuguese whom they met in the streets by not taking off their hats to salute them. If the gravity of the matter had not been the subject of a state paper I should not have known it.* Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard were not included in either of the four New England governments. All the islands between Cape Cod and Hudson River were claimed by the Earl of Sterling. In 1641 a deed was passed to Thomas Mayhew, of Martha's Vineyard, by James Forett, agent of the earl, and Richard Vines, the steward of Sir F. Gorges. The island, until the ac- cession of William and Mary, was considered within the jurisdiction of New York, though we find the deed to Mayhew reciting that the government to be there established by him and his associates should be such as was then existing in Massachusetts, with the same privileges granted by the patent of that colony. In 1659 Mayhew conveyed to the associates mentioned in his deed, nine in number, equal portions of his grant, after reserving to himself Masquetuck Neck, or Quaise.^ The consideration was thirty pounds of lawful money and two beaver hats, one for himself, and one for his wife. The first meeting of the proprietors was held at Salisbury, Massachusetts, in September ' Of Macy it is known that he fled from the rigorous persecution of the Quakers by the govern- ment of Massachusetts Bay. The penalties were ordinarily cropping the ears, branding with an iron, scourging, the pillory, or banishment. These cruelties, barbarous as they were, were raerely borrowed from the England of that day, where the sect, saving capital punishment, was persecuted with as great rigor as it ever was in the colonies. The death-penalty inflicted in the Bay Colony brought the affairs of the Friends to the notice of the reigning king. Thereafter they were toler- ated ; but as persecution ceased the sect dwindled away, and in New England it is not numerous. The Friends' poet sings of Macy, the outcast : "Far round the bleak and stormy Cape The vent'rons Macy passed, And on Nantucket's naked isle Drew up his boat at last." - Thurioe, vol. v., p. 422. ^ The nine were Tristram Coffin, Thomas Macy, Christopher Hnssey, Richard Swain, Thomas Barnard, Peter Coffin, Stephen Greenleaf, Jolin Swain, and William Pile, who afterward sold his tenth to Richard Swain. 340 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. of the same year (1659), at wliich time ten otlier persons were admitted part- ners,' enlarging the whole nnmber of proprietors to nineteen. After the re- moval to the island, the number was farther increased to twenty-seven by the admission of Richard and Joseph Gardiner, Joseph Coleman, William Worth, Peter and Eleazer Folger, Samuel Stretor, and Nathaniel Wier. The English settlers in 1660 obtained a confirmation of their title from the sachems Wanackmamack and Nickanoose, with certain reservations to the Indian inhabitants, driving, as usual, a hard, ungenerous bargain, as the Indians learned when too late. In IVOO their grievances were communicated by the Earl of Bellomont, then governor, to the crown. Their greatest complaint was, that the English had by calculation stripped them of the means of keeping cattle or live stock of any kind, even on their reserved lands, by means of concessions they did not comprehend. At that time the Indians had been decimated, numbering fewer than four hundred, while the Avhites had increased to eight hundred souls. The mortality of 1763 wasted the few remaining Indians to a handful.^ In 1791 there were but four males and sixteen females. Abraham Quady, the last survivor, died within a few years. The choice of the island by Macy is accounted for by the foregoing facts, doubtless within his knowledge, as many of the original proprietors were his townsmen. Thomas Mayhew ought to be considered one of the fathers of English set- tlement in New England. He was of Watertovvn, in Massachusetts, and I presume the same person mentioned by Drake, in his " Founders," as desirous of passing, in 1637, into "fforaigne partes." He is styled Mr. Thomas May- hew, Gent., a title raising him above the rank of tradesmen, artificers, and the like, who were not then considered gentlemen ; nor is this distinction much weakened at the present day in England. Mayhew received his grant of Nantucket and two small islands adjoining in October, 1641, and on the 23d of the same month, of Martha's Vineyard and the Elizabeth Islands. The younger Mayhew, who, Mather says, settled at the Vineyard in 1642, seems to have devoted himself to the conversion of the Indians with the zeal of a mis- sionary.^ In 1657 he was drowned at sea, the ship in which he had sailed for England never having been heard from. He was taking with him one of the Vineyard Indians, with the hope of awakening an interest in their progress toward Christianity. Jonathan Mayhew, the celebrated divine, was of this stock. The first settlement at Maddequet Harbor was abandoned after a more ' Jolui Smith, Nathaniel Starbuck, Edward Stavbuck, Thomas Look, Robert Barnard, James Coffin, Robert Pike, Tristram Coffin, Jan., Thomas Coleman, and John Bishop. "^ Of three hundred and fifty-eight Indians alive in 1763, two hundred and twenty-two died hy the distemper. ' Hutchinson. NANTUCKET. 341 thorough knowledge of tlie island and the accession of white inhabitants. Tlie south side of the present harbor was first selected ; but its inconvenience bein^r soon felt, the town was located where it now is. By instruction of Governor Francis Lovelace it received, in 1673, the name of Sherburne, changed in 1795 to the more familiar one of Nantucket. The town stands near the centre of the island, the place having formerly been known by the Indian name of " Wesko," signifying White Stone, This stone, which lay, like the rock of the Pilgrims, on the harbor shore, was in time covered by a wharf. The bluff at the west of the town still retains the name of Sherburne. I found the oldest houses at the extremities of the town. E. Johnson's studio, nantucket. Another of the original proprietors is remembered with honor by the isl- anders, Peter Folger was looked up to as a superior sort of man. He was so well versed in the Indian tongue that his name is often found on the deeds from the natives. The mother of Benjamin Franklin was the daughter of Folger. They do not forget it. The name of Peter Folger is still contin- ued, and family relics of interest are preserved by the descendants of the first Peter. Any account of Nantucket must be incomplete that omits mention of Sir Isaac Coffin. Sir Isaac was a Bostonian. His family were out-nnd-out Tories in the Revolution, with more talent tlian in general falls to the share of one 342 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. household. He was descended from an ancient family in the northern part of Devonshire, England. In 1773 Isaac Coffin was taken to sea by Lieutenant Hunter, of the Gaspee, at the recommendation of Admiral John Montague. His commanding officer said he never knew any young man acquire so much nautical knowledge in so short a time. After reaching the grade of post- captain. Coffin, for a breach of the regulations of the service, was deprived of his vessel, and Earl Howe struck his name from the list of post-captains. This act being illegal, he was reinstated in 1790. In 1804 he was made a baronet, and in 1814 became a full admiral in the British navy. One of his brothers was a British general. On a visit to the United States, in 1826, Sir Isaac came to Nantucket. Finding that many of the inhabitants claimed descent from his own genea- logical tree, he authorized the purchase of a building, and endowed it with a fund of twenty-five hundred pounds sterling, for the establishment of a school to which all descendants of Tristram Coffin, one of the first settlers, should be admitted. On one of his voyages to America the admiral suffered shipwreck. During the war of 1812, it is related that the admiral made a visit to Dart- moor prison, for the purpose of releasing any American prisoners of his family name. Among others who presented themselves was a negro. "Ah," said the admiral, " you a Coffin too ?" " Yes, massa." " How old are you ?" " Me thirty years, massa." " Well, then, you are not one of the Coffins, for they never turn black until forty." NANTUCKET. — OLD WINDMILL, LOOKING OCEANWARD. CHAPTER XXL NANTUCKET — Continued. Muskeeget, Tuckanuck, Maddequet, Sankoty, Coatue, Siasconset. HISTORY is said to repeat itself, and why may not tlie whale-fishing ? Now that the ships are all gone, a small whale is occasionally taken oft" the island, as in days of yore. While I was at Nantucket, a school of black- fish were good enough to come into the shallows not far from the harbor, and stupid enough to permit themselves to be taken. The manner of their cap- ture was truly an example of the triumph of mind over matter. When the school were discovered near the shore, the fishermen, getting outside of them in their dories, by hallooing, sounding of horns, and other noises, drove them, like frightened sheep, toward the beach. As soon as the hunters were in shoal water they left their boats, and jumped overbo.ard, urg- ing the silly fish on by outcries, splashing the water, and blows. Men, and even boys, waded boldly up to a fish, and led him ashore by a fin ; or, if in- clined to show fight, put their knives into him. They cuffed them, pricked them onward, filling the air with shouts, or Avith peals of laughter, as some pursuer, more eager than prudent, lost his footing, and became for the moment a fish. All this time the blackfish were nearing the shore, uttering sounds closely resembling groanings and lamentations. The calves kept close to the 344 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. old ones, " squealing," as one of the captors told me, like young pigs. It was great sport, not wholly free from danger, for the fish can strike a powerful blow with its flukes ; and the air was filled with jets of water where they had lashed it into foam. At length the whole school were landed, even to one poor calf that had wandered off, and now came back to seek its dam. The fishermen, after putting their marks upon them, went up to town to com- municate their good luck. Sometimes a hundred or two are taken at once in this wise, here or on the Cape. Tlie oil of the blackfish is obtained in precisely the same manner as that of the whale, of which it is a pocket edition. The blubber, nearly resembling pork-fat, was stripped off and taken in dories to town. I saw the men tossing it with their pitchforks on the shore, whence it was loaded into carts, and car- ried to the try-house on one of the wharves. Here it was heaped in a palpi- tating and by no means savory mass. Men were busily engaged in trimming off the superfluous flesh, or in slicing it, with great knives resembling shingle- froes, into pieces suitable for the try-pot; and still others were tossing it into the smoking caldron. But if whales are getting scarce round about Nantucket, the blue-fish is still plenty. This gamest and most delicious of salt-water fish is noted for its strength, voracity, and grit. He is a very pirate among fish, making prey of all alike. Cod, haddock, mackerel, or tautog, are glad to get out of his way ; the smaller fry he chases among the surf-waves of the shore, much as the fishermen pursue the blackfish. Where the blue-fish abounds you need not try for other sort : he is lord high admiral of the finny tribes. This fish has a curious history. Before the year 1763, in which the great pestilence occurred aniong the Indians of the island, and from the first coming of the Indians to Nantucket, a large, fat fish, called the blue-fish, thirty of which would fill a barrel, was caught in great plenty all around the island, from the 1st of July to the middle of October, It was remarked that in 1764, the year in which the sickness ended, they disappeared, and were not again seen until about fifty years ago.' It was a delicious afternoon that I set sail for the "Opening," as it is called, between Nantucket and Tuckatmck,'^ an appanage of the former, and one of the five islands constituting the county of Nantucket. The tide runs with such swiftness that the boatmen do not venture through the Opening except with plenty of wind, and of the right sort. With a stiff breeze blowing, the breakers are superb, especially when wind and tide are battling with each other. With the wind blowing freshly over these shallow Avaters, it does not take long for the seas to assume proportions simply appalling to a lands- ' Zaccheus Macy, in his account of the ishmd, written in 171)2, says none had beeji talien up to that time — "a great loss to the islanders." ^ The Indian name Tuckanuck signifies a loaf of bread. NANTUCKET. 345 CAPTURED PORPOISE AND BLAtKFlbU man. It was a magnificent sight ! Great waves erected themselves into solid walls of green, advancing at first majestically, then rushing with increased momentum across our course to crash in clouds of foam upon the opposite shore. It needs a skillful boatman at the helm. What with the big seas, the seething tide-rips, and the scanty sea-room, the sail is of itself sufficiently exciting. But the fishing, what of that? We cast our lines over the stern, and, as the boat was going at a great pace, they were straightened out in a trice. At the end of each was a wicked -looking hook of large size, having a leaden sinker run upon the shank of it. Over this hook, called by the fish- ermen hereabouts a "drail," an eel-skin was drawn, though I have known the blue -fish to bite well at a simj^le piece of canvas or leather. Away bounded the boat, while we stood braced in the standing-room to meet her plunging. Twenty fathoms with a pound of lead at the end seems fift}', at least, with your boat rushing headlong under all she can bear. Half an acre of smooth water Avholly unruffied is just ahead. "I'm going to put you right into that slick," said our helmsman. "Now look out for a big one." I felt a dead weight at my lino. At the end of it a shining object leaped clear from the Avater and fell, with a loud plash, a yard in advance. Now, haul in steadily ; don't be flurried ; but, above all, mind your line does not slacken. I lost one splendid fellow by too great precipitation. The line is as rigid as steel wire, and, if your hands are tender, cuts deep into the flesh. Ah ! he is now near enough to see the boat. How he plunges and tries to turn ! He makes the water boil, and the line fairly sing. I had as lief try to hold an old hunter in a steeple-chase. Ha! here you are, my captive, under the counter; and now I lift you carefully over the gunwale. I enjoin on tlie 346 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. inexperienced to be sure they land a fisli in the boat, and not lose one, as I did, by throwing him on the gunwale. The fish shows fight after he is in the tub, shutting his jaws with a vicious snap as he is being unhooked. Look out for him; he can bite, and sliarply too. The blue-fish is not unlike the salmon in looks and in action. He is fur- nished with a backbone of steel, and is younger brother to the shark. I looked over my shoulder. My companion, a cool hand ordinarily, was engaged in hauling in his line with affected nonchalance; but compressed lips, stern eye, and rigid figure said otherwise. There is a quick flash in the water, and in comes the fish. " Eight-pounder," says the boatman. THE BLUE-FISH. These " slicks" ai-e not the least curious feature of blue-fishing. The fish seems to have the ability to exude an oil, by which he calms the water so that he may, in a way, look about him, showing himself in this an adept in apply- ing a well-known principle in hydrostatics. A perceptible odor arises from the slicks, so that the boatmen will often say, " I smell blue-fish." The boatman steered among the tide-rips, where each of us soon struck a fish, or, as the phrase here is, " got fast." The monster — I believe he was a ten-pounder at least — that took my hook threw himself bodily into the air, shaking his head as if he did not mean to come on board us. And he Avas as good as his threat : I saw the drail skipping on the top of the wave as my line came in empty. In two hours we had filled a barrel with fish, and it was time to shape our course harbor ward. We saw the smoke of the Island Home, looking at first as if rising out of the Sound; then her funnel appeared, and at length her hull rose into view ; but she w^as come within a mile of us before I could distin- guish her walking-beam. Tuckanuck and Low Water Island were soon a-lee. Maddequet Harbor opened a moment for us, but we did not enter. We rounded Eel Point w'ith a full sail, and shot past Whale Rock and the shoal of stranded blackfish I told you of Ever and anon we had passed one adrift, stripped of his fatty epidermis, and now food for the sharks. They were grotesque objects, though now mere carrion, above which the tierce gulls NANTUCKET. 347 BLUE-FISHING. screamed noisily. Here is Brant Point, and its light-house of red brick. We stand well over for Coatue, then about with her for the home stretch. "Fast bind fast find." Our bark is moored. With stiffened joints, but light hearts, we seek our lodgings. What do they say to us? I' faith I am not sorry I went blue-fishing. Reader, are you ? Many blue-fish are caught oif the beach on the south shore of the island by casting a line among the breakers, and then hauling it quickly in. This method they call " heave and haul." It takes an expert to get the sleight of it. Gathering the line in a coil and swinging it a few times around his head, an old hand Avill cast it to an incredible distance. The fish is also fre- quently taken in seines in shallow creeks and inlets, but he as often escapes through the rents he has made in the net. I had three excursions to make before I could say I had seen Nantucket. One was to the hills and sands toward Coatue, that curved like a sickle around the harbor ; another was to Siasconset ; and yet another to the south side. This being done, I had not left much of the island unexplored. It was on a raw, blustering morning that I set out for a walk around the eastern shore of the harbor. I saw the steamboat go out over the bar, now settling down in the trough, and now shaking herself and staggering onward. Dismally it looked for a day in July, but I had not the mending of it. After 348 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. getting well clear of the town I found the hills assuming some size and ap. pearance of vegetation. They were overgrown with wild -cranberry vines bearing stunted fruit, each turning a little red cheek to be kissed by the morning sun. Some beautiful flowers sprung from among the neutral patches of heather. The Indian pea, unmatched in wild beauty, displayed its sump- tuous plume among the gray moss or modest daisies. The beach grass was rooted everywhere in the hillocks next the shore, and appeared to be gradually working its way inland. I attempted to pull some of it up, but only the stalks remained in ray hand. Each leaf is like a sword- blade. Pass your hand across the under-surface, and it is prickly and rough. What there formerly was of soil has been growing thinner and thinner by being blown into the sea. Unlike the buffalo-grass of the plains, the beach grass possesses little nutriment, though cattle crop the tender shoots in spring. It was formerly much used for broom-stuff. I picked up by the shore many scallop-shells, and on the hills saw many more lying where pleasure -seekers had held, as the saying is, their ^^squan- tum^'' or picnic. This is a historical shell. It surmounts the cap-stone of the monument built over the Rock of the Forefathers at Plymouth. In the Dark Ages, a scallop-shell fastened to the hat was the accepted sign that the wearer had made a pilgrimage to the Holy Land. We read in Parnell's " Hermit :" " He quits liis cell, the pilgrim staff' he bore, And fixed the scallop in his hat before." Professor Gosse says there was a supposed mystical connection between the scallop-shell and St. James, the brother of the Lord, first bishop of Jeru- salem. The scallop beds are usually in deep water, and the fish, therefore, can be obtained only by dredging. They are rather plentiful in Narraganset Bay. Some, of a poetic turn, have called them the "butterflies of the sea;" others a " frill," from their fancied resemblance to that once indispensable badge of gentility. As much as any thing they look like an open fan. Many other shells I found, particularly the valves of quahaugs, and a periwinkle six inches in length. Its shell is obtained by fastening a hook in the fish and suspending it by a string. In a few hours the inhabitant drops his integu- ment. Amber is sometimes picked up on the shores, they say, but none came to my share. Shells of the same kind as those now common to the shores of the island have been found at the depth of fifty feet, after penetrating several strata of earth and clay. In digging as deep as the sea-level, the same kind of sand is brought to the surface as now makes the beaches, and the same inclination has been observed that now exists on the shores. Mr. Adams, my landlord, told me he saw taken from a well, at the depth of sixty feet, a quantity of quahaug -shells of the size of a half-dollar. They usually have to go this depth in the sand, and then get poor, brackish water. There is an account NANTUCKET. 349 of the finding of the bone of a wliale thirty feet nnder-grountl at Siasconset. I saw many covered wells in Nantucket streets that appeared to be the sup- ply of their immediate neighborhoods. The fogs that sometimes envelop Nantucket gave rise to a pleasant fic- tion, which smacks of the salt. A whaling ship, outward-bound, having been caught in one of unusual density in leaving the port, the captain made a pe- culiar mark in it with a harpoon, and on his return, after a three years' cruise, fell in with the harbor at the very same spot. The Indian legend of the origin of Nantucket is that Mashope, the Indian giant, formed it by emptying the ashes of his pipe into the sea. This same Mashope, having in one of his excursions lighted his pipe on the island, and sat down for a comfortable smoke, caused the fogs that have since j^revailed there. He probably waded across from the Vineyard, when he wanted a little distraction from domestic infelicities. The residence of Mashope was in a cavern known as the Devil's Den, at Gay Head, Here he broiled the whale on a fire made of the largest trees, which he pulled up by the roots. After separating No Man's Land from Gay Head, metamorphosing his children into fishes, and throwing his wife on Seconnet Point, where she now lies, a misshapen rock, he broke up housekeep- ing and left for parts unknown. Another Indian legend ascribed the discovery of Nantucket to the rav- ages made by an eagle among the children of the tribes on Cape Cod. The bird having seized a papoose, was followed by the parents in a canoe until they came to the island, where they found the bones of the child. The ex- istence of the island was not before suspected. Anciently, the dwellers were shepherds, living by their flocks as well as by fishing. Every inhabitant had the right to keep a certain number of sheep. One day in the year — formerly the only holiday kept on the island — every body repaired to the commons. The sheep were driven into pens and sheared. Sheep-shearing day continued the red-letter day on Nantucket well into the present century, I saw flocks browsing almost everywhere in my ram- bles, and thought them much more picturesque objects in the landscajje than corn-fields or vegetable gardens. There is a freedom about a shepherd's life, a communion with and knowledge of nature in all her variable moods, that renders it more attractive than delving in the soil. No one is so weather- wise as a shepherd-boy. I liked to hear the tinkling of the bells, and watch the gambols of the lambs on the hill-sides. In his day, Philip was lord and sagamore of the Nantucket Indians. He came once to the island, in pursuit of a subject who had violated savage laws by speaking the name of the dead. The culprit took refnge in the house of Thomas Macy, and Philip, by the payment of a considerable ransom, was induced to spare his life. Tliis occurred in 1GG5. The Indian prince was absolute lord on land and sea. Every thing 350 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. stranded on his coasts — whales or otlier wreck of value found floating on the sea washing his shores — or brought and landed from any part of the sea, was no less his own. In the "Magnalia" is related an incident illustrating this absolutisni of Indian sagamores. An Indian prince, with eighty well-armed attendants, came to Mr. Mayhew's house at Martha's Vineyard. Mayhew en- tered the room, but, being acquainted with their customs, took no notice of the visitors, it being with them a point of honor for an inferior to salute the superior. After a considerable time the chief broke silence, addressing Mr. Mayhew as sachem, a title importing only good or noble birth. The prince having preferred some request, Mayhew acceded to it, adding that he would confer with the whites to obtain their consent also. The Indian demanded why he recalled his promise, saying, "What I promise or speak is always true ; but you, an English governor, can not be true, for you can not of your- self make true what you promise." It has been observed that the island is gradually wasting away. On the east and south some hundreds of acres have been encroached upon by the sea, and, by the accounts of ancient inhabitants, as many more on the north. During some years the sea has contributed to extend the shores ; in others the waste was arrested; but the result of a long series of observations shows a constant gain for the ocean. Smith's Point, now isolated from the main- land, once formed a part of it, the sea in 1786 making a clean breach through, and forming a strait half a mile wide. I have no wish to depreciate the value of real estate upon Nantucket, but by the year 3000, according to our present calendar, I doubt if there will be more than a grease-spot remaining to mark the habitation of a race of vikings whose javelins were harpoons. Siasconset is the paradise of the islander: not to see it would be in his eyes unpardonable. Therefore I went to Siasconset, or Sconset, as your true islander pronounces it, retaining all the kernel of the word. It is situated on the south-east shore of the island, seven miles from the town. You may have, for your excursion, any sort of vehicle common to the main-land, but the islanders most aftect a cart with high-boarded sides and a step behind, more resembling a city coal-cart than any thing else I can call to mind. Though not like an Irish jaunting-car, it is of quite as peculiar con- struction, and, when filled with its complement of gleeful excursionists, is no bad conveyance. For my own part, I would rather walk, but they will tell you every body rides to Sconset. Take any vehicle you Avill, you can have only a single horse, the road, or rather track, being so deeply rutted that, Avhen once in it, the wheels run in grooves six to twelve inches in depth, while the horse jogs along in a sort of furrow. I own to a rooted antipathy to carts, going much farther back than my visit to Nantucket. The one I rode in over a stony road in Maine, with a sack of hay for a cushion, put me out of conceit with carts. I would have NANTUCKET. 351 admired the scenery, had not my time been occupied in holding- on and in catching my breath. I might have talked with the driver, liad not the jolting put me under the necessity of swallowing my own words, and nobody, I fancy, quite likes to do that. What little was said came out by jerks, like the con- fession of a victim stretched on the rack. Henceforth I revolted against hav- ing my utterance broken on the wheel. But when I came to be the involuntary witness of a family quarrel in a cart, I banished them altogether from the catalogue of vehicles. " You are kept so very close to it, in a cart, you see. There's thousands of couples among you getting on like sweet-ile on a whetstone, in houses five and six pairs of stairs high, that would go to the divorce court in a cart. Whether the jolting makes it worse, I don't undertake to decide, but in a cart it does come home to you, and stick to you. Wiolence in a cart is so wiolent, and aggrawation in a cart so aggrawatins:." After leaving the town the way is skirted, for some distance, with scraggy, weird-looking pitch-pines, that are slowly replacing the native forest. At every mile is a stone — set at the roadside by the care of one native to this, and now an inhabitant of the most populous island in America.^ They are painted white, and stand like sentinels by day, or ghosts by night, to point the way. In one place I noticed the bone of a shaik stuck in the ground for a landmark. There are two roads to Siasconset, the old and the new. I chose the old. A stretch of seven miles across a lonely prairie, with no other object for the eye to rest upon than a few bare hills or sunken ponds, brought us in sight of the village and of the sea. The Siasconset of the past was neither more nor less than a collection of fishermen's huts, built of the simplest materials that would keep out wind and weather. In the beginnings of the English along our coast these little fish- ing-hamlets were called " stages." Other fishing-stages were at Weweeders, Peedee, Sesacacha, and Quidnet. Of these Siasconset alone has flourished. All early navigators and writers agree that the waters hereaway were abun- dantly stocked with the cod. I found the village pleasantly seated along the margin of the bluff, that rises here well above the sea. Behind it the land swelled again so as to in- tercept the view of the town. Underneath the clifi" is a terrace of sand, to which a flight of steps, eked out with a footpath, assists the descent. Here were lying a number of dories, and one or two singular-looking fish-carts, with a cask at one end for a wheel. A fish-house, with brush flakes about it, and a pile of Avreck lumber, completed what man might have a title to. This terrace pitches abruptly into the sea, with a regularity of slope like the glacis of a fortress. It would never do to call the Atlantic a ditch, yet you seem ' Rev. F. C. Ewer, of New York. ^ 352 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. HOMES OF THE FISHERMEN, SIASCONSET. standing on a parapet of sand. The sand here appears composed of particles of granite; in other parts of the island it is like the drift at Cape Cod. The village is an odd collection of one-story cottages, so alike that the first erected might have served as a pattern for all others. Iron cranes pro- jected from angles of the houses, on which to hang lanterns at night-fall, in place of street-lamps. Fences, neatly whitewashed or painted, inclosed each householder's possession, and in many instances blooming flower-beds caused an involuntary glance at the window for their guardians. On many houses were the names of wrecks that had the seeming of grave-stones overlooking the sands that had entombed the ships that wore them. In one front yard was the carved figure of a woman that had been filliped by the foam of many a sea. Fresh from the loftier buildings and broader streets of the town, this seemed like one of those miniature villages that children delight in. Looking off" seaward, I could descry no sails. The last objects on the hori- zon line were white-crested breakers combing above the " gulf or ship-swal- lower" lying in wait beneath them. It is a dangerous sea, and Nantucket Shoals have obtained a terrible celebrity — unequaled, perhaps, even by the Goodwin Sands, that mariners shudder at the mention of. If a ship grounds on the Shoal she is speedily wrenched in pieces by the power of the surf They will tell you of a brig (the Poinsett) that came ashore on the south side with her masts in her, apparently uninjured. Two days' pounding strewed the beach Avith her timbers. "A ship on the Shoals!" is a sound that will quicken the pulses of men familiar with danger. I suppose the calam- NANTUCKET. 353 itous boom of a minute-gun lias often roused the little fishing-hamlet to exer- tions of which a few human lives were the guerdon. Heard amidst the accom- paniments of tempest, gale, and the thunder of the breakers, it might well thrill the listener with fear; or, if unheard, the lightning flashes would tell the watchers that wood and iron still held together, and that hope was not yet extinct. It may be that the great Nantucket South Shoal, forty-five miles in breadth by fifty in length, tends to the preservation of the island, for which it is a breakwater. The great extent of shallows on both sides of the island, with the known physical changes, would almost justify the belief that these sands and this island once formed part of the main-land of New England. Much is claimed, doubtless with justice, for the salubrity of Siasconset air. Many resort thither during the heats of midsummer. I found denizens of Nantucket who, it would seem, had enough of sea and shore at home, domes- ticated in some wee cottage. The season over, houses are shut up, and the village goes into winter-quarters. The greensward, elevation above the sea, and pure air are its credentials, I saw it on a sunny day, looking its best. The sand is coarse-grained and very soft. There is no beach on the island firm enough for driving, or even tolerable walking. The waves that came in here projected themselves fully forty feet up the escarpment of the bank that I THE SEA-BLUFF, SIASCONSET. 23 354 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. liave spoken of. I recollect that, having chosen what I believed a safe position, I was overtaken by a wave, and had to beat a hasty retreat. Bathing here is, on account of the under-tow and quicksands, attended with hazard, and ought not to be attempted except with the aid of ropes. Willis talks of the tenth Avave. I know about the third of the swell, for I have often watched it. The iirst and second are only forerunners of tlie mighty one. The dories come in on it, A breaker fell here every five seconds, by the watch. We returned by the foreland of Sankoty Head, on which a light-house stands. From an eminence here the sea is visible on both sides of the island. When built, this light was unsurpassed in brilliancy by any on the coast, and was considered equal to the magnificent beacon of the Morro. Fisher- men called it the blazing star. Its flashes are very full, vivid, and striking, and its position is one of great importance, as warning the mariner to steer wide of the great Southern Shoal. Seven miles at sea the white flash takes a reddish hue. • I HAULING A DORY OVER THE HILLS, NANTUCKET. The following afternoon I walked across the island to the south shore at Surfside, a distance of perhaps three miles or more. A south-west gale that had prevailed for twenty-four hours led me to expect an angry and tumultu- ous sea; nor was I disappointed: the broad expanse between shore and hori- zon was a confused mass of foam and broken Avater. It was a mournful sea: not a sail nor a living soul was in sight. A few sand-birds and plover piped plaintively to the hoarse diapason of the billows. Here I saw a sunset in a gale; the sun, as the sailors say, "setting up NANTUCKET. 355 / /^ -'-'-/«;' -i^v'' LIGHT-HOUfeE, SANKOTl ULAD, >ANTLCKET shrouds and backstays" — screened troui view by a mass of dark clouds, yet pouring down from behind tlieni through interstices upon llie bounds of the sea, the rays having somewhat the appearance of golden ropes arising from the ocean and converging to an unseen point. I seated myself in one of the dories on the beach and gazed my fill. Say what you will, there is a mighty fascination in the sea. Darkness surprised me before I had recrossed the lonely moor, and I held my way, guided by the deep cart-ruts, until the lights of the town twinkled their welcome before me. It was my last night on sea-girt Nantucket. I do not deny that I left it with reluctance. NEWPORT, i'KOM FOKT ADAMS. CHAPTER XXII. NEWPORT OF AQUIDNECK. "This castle hath a pleasant seat: the air Nimbly and sweetly recommends itself Unto our gentle senses." — Macbeth. NEWPORT is an equivoque. It is old, and yet not; grave, though gay; opulent and poor; splendid and mean; populous or deserted. As tlie only place in New England where those who flee from one city are content to inhabit another, it is anomalous. In his "Trois Mousquetaires" Alexander Dumas makes his giant, Porthos, encounter a ludicrous adventure. The guardsman is the complacent pos- sessor of a magnificent golden sword-belt, the envy of his comrades, until on one unlucky day it is discovered that the half concealed beneath his cloak is nothing but leather; whereupon some sword-thrusts occur. It was M, Bes- meaux, afterward governor of the Bastile, who was the real hero of the sword- belt — half gold, half leather — that Dumas has hung on the shoulders of his gigantic guardsman. Newport's ocean side is belted with modern villas, costly, showy, and or- nate. They mask the town in splendid succession, as if each had been built to surpass its neighbor. This is the Newport of to-day. Behind it, old, gray, and commonplace by comparison, is the Newport of other days. Tlie dift\M-- ence between the two is very marked. The old town is the effete body into which the new is infusing young blood, warming and invigorating it into new life. If the figure were permissible, we should say the Queen of Aquidneck had drunk of the elixir of life, so unexampled is the rapidity with Avhich she transfigures herself I like Newport because it is old, quaint, and peculiar. Though far from in- NEWPORT OF AQUIDNECK. 357 sensible to its difficult feats in architecture, I did not come to see fine bouses. To me they embody nothing besides the idea of wealth and luxurious ease. Many of them are as remarkable for elegance as are others for ugliness of design ; yet I found it much the same as walking in Fifth Avenue or Bea- con Street. They are at first bewihlering, then monotonous ; or, as Ruskin says of types of form, mere form, " You learn not to see them. You don't look at them." I said Newport was commonplace, and I said it with mental reservation. It has a matchless site, glorious bay, and delicious climate, that many have been willing, perhaps a little too willing, to compare with Italy. If we have in New England any phase of climate we may safely match with that favored land,' I frankly concede Newport possesses it. The Gulf Stream approaches near enough to temper in summer the harshness of sea-breezes, and the rigor of cold northern winds in winter. The only faults I had to find with the summer and autumn aspects of Newport climate were the fogs and humidity of the nights. The pavements are frequently wet as if by light showers. This condition of the atmosphere is the plague of laundresses and hair-dress- ers at the great houses: the ringlets you see in Newport are natural. When at the Isles of Shoals, Ave were a "thin under-waistcoat warmer" than on the raain-lajid. Neal says it is a coat warmer in winter at Newport than at Boston. I remarked that evening promenaders in the streets there were more thinly clothed than would be considered prudent elsewhere. In Newport, according to Neal, it would lose much point to say a man was with- out a coat to his back. Mr. Cooi^er, in the " Red Rover," calls attention to ■^ the magnificent harbor of Newport in the language of the practiced seaman. ^Llt fully meets all the requisites of easy approach, safe anchorage, and quiet ^Hbasin. Isles and promontories, frowning with batteries, shield it from danger ^■or insult. The verdure of the shores is of the most brilliant green, and grows ^P quite to the water's edge, or to the verge of the cliffs. In a calm day, when |f the water is ruffled only by light aii's, the tints of sea and sky are scarcely different: then the bay really looks like ■[ "Un pezzo di cielo eaduto in terra." In approaching Newport from sea, after weathering mnch-dreaded Point Judith,^ we shall fall in with the light-vessel anchored oft'Brcnton's Reef, the extreme south-west point of the island of Rhode Island. At the same time the light-house on Beaver TaiP flashes greeting, and we may now enter the ' At Naples the summer temperature is seldom above 73°; in winter it does not fall below 47°, * Point Judith is named from Judith Quiney, the wife of John Hull, coiner of the rare old pine- tree shillings of 1G52. ^ Beaver Tail is a peninsula at the southern extremity of Canonicut Island, so naraed from its marked resemblance, on the map, to the appendage of the beaver. THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. OLD FORT, DUMPLING ROCKS. port with contidence. Passing beside the "Dumplings" and the old round tower, perched on a projecting and almost insulated rock, we steer under the walls of Fort Adams.' Sleepy fishing-boats, coming in with the morn- ing's flood, are sent, with rattling blocks, and sails idly flapi)ing, reeling and rocking on big waves caused by the majestic onward march of our great steamer ; the beat of the paddles comes audibly back from rocks washed for a moment by our attendant wave. As we round the fortress the bugles play. A ball goes quickly up to the very top of the flag -staff; there is a flash, and a roar of the morning gun ; and when the smoke drifts slowly before the breeze, we see the dear old flag blowing out clear, with every stripe still there, and never a reproach in one of them. At our right, and close inshore, is Lime Rock Light, with its associations of female heroism.^ At the left is Goat Island, long and low, with Fort Wolcott and pleasant cottages for the oflicers of the torpedo station.' Beyond, rising tier above tier, with the beautiful spire of Trinity Church in its midst, is New- port. Newport has been compared to the Lothians and to the Isle of Wight, the British Eden. By all old travelers it was admitted to be the paradise of New England. Its beautiful and extensive bay reminds Scotsmen of the Clyde. In fact, every traveled person at once estimates it with what has hitherto impressed him most — an involuntary but sure recognition of its charms. Previous to the Revolution, Newport was the fourth commercial town in the colonies, once having more than nine thousand inhabitants. It was at first tributary to Boston, sending its corn, pork, and tobacco to be exchanged ' Eort Adams is situated at the upper (northern) end of a point of land which helps to form the harbor of Newport ; it also incloses a piece of water called Brenton's Cove. * By our American Grace Darling, Miss Ida Lewis. ^ Goat Island was the site of a colonial fortress. During the reign of King William, Colonel Romer advised the fortification of Rhode Island, which he says had never been done "by reason of the mean condition and refractoriness of the inhabitants." In 1744 the fort on Goat Island mounted twelve cannon. At the beginning of the Revolution General Lee, and afterward Colonel Knox, marked out defensive works ; but they do not appear to have been executed when the British, on the same day that Washington crossed the Delaware, took possession of the island. The Whigs, in 177.5, removed the cannon from the batteries in the harbor. Major L'Enfant, the engineer of West Point, was the author of Fort Wolcott. NEWPORT OF AQUIDNECK. 359 for European goods. Its commercial recovery from the prostration ia which the old war left it was again arrested by that of 1812;* and this time it did not rise again. The whale-fishery was introduced and abandoned: writers of this period describe it as lifeless, with every mark of dilapidation and de- cay. The salubrity of the climate of Xewport had long been acknowledcred and before 1820 it had become a place of resort for invalids from the South- ern States and the West Indies. This one original gift has ever since been out at interest, until, where a few acres of grass once flourished, you miHit cover the ground with dollars before you became its owner.' At Newport the visitor is challenged by past and present, each having large claims on his attention. I spent much of my time among old houses, monuments, and churches. Some of these are in public places and are easily found, while others are hidden away in forgotten corners, or screened from observation by the walls of intervening buildings. As is inevitable in such a place, the visitor will unwittingly pass by many objects that he will be cu- rious to see, and in retracing his footsteps will have occasion to remark how much a scrap of history or tradition adds to the charm of an otherwise unin- teresting structure. The town along the' water resembles Salem, except that it has neither its look of antiquity nor its dilapidation. Here the principal thoroughfare is Thames Street, long, narrow, and almost wholly built of wood. The narrow- ness of Thames Street has been referred to the encroachments of builders of a former time, the old houses standing at some distance back from the pave- ment being pointed to as evidence of the fact. I can only vouch for glimpses of some very habitable and inviting old residences in back courts and alleys opening upon the street. Here, too, old gambrel-roofed houses are plenty as blackberries in August. They have a portly, aldermanic look, with great breadth of beam, like ships of their day. When these houses that now stand end to the street had pleasant garden spots between, a walk here would have been worth the taking. When there were no sidewalks, it meant something to give the wall to your neighbor, and tact and breeding were requisite to know Avlien to demand and when to decline it. In Thames Street are several imperturbable notables in brick or wood. The City Hall — for as early as 1784 Newport had reached the dignity of a city — is usually first encountered. Notwithstanding they tell you it was one ' There should be added to the detail of maps given in the initial chapter that of Jerome Ver- razani, in the College de Propaganda Fide, at Rome, of the supposed date of 1529. This map is described and discussed, together with the detail of Giovanni Verrazani's letter to Francis I., dated at Dieppe, July 8th, 1.524, in " A''errazano, the Navigator," by J. C. Brevoort. A reduced copy of the map or "Planisphere "is there given. The author adopts the tiieory, not without plausibility, that Verrazani passed fifteen days at anchor in Narraganset Bay. As I have before said, there is something of fact in these early relations; but if tested by the only e.xact marks given (latitude, distances, and courses), they establish nothing. ;360 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. of Peter Harrison's^ buikliiigs, it is very ordinary-looking, inside and out. It was built on arches, which indicates the lower floor to have been intended as a public promenade ; and shows that the architect had the Old Royal Ex- change in mind. For some time it was used as a market. This house came into the little world of Newport in 1763. A word of admiration from All- ston has long been treasured. In this building I saw hanging the escutcheon of William Coddington, who, as every body at all familiar with the history of Rhode Island knows, was one of the founders of Newport, and first governor of the little body pol- itic organized upon the Isle of Aquidneck. OLD-TIME HOUSES. We have decided to cast a glance backward, and, to know our ^ground, must pay our duty to this old founder. William Coddington, Esquire, came to New England in 1C30 with the Boston colonists, as one of the assistants named in their charter. He was several times rechosen to this important po- sition, became a leading merchant in Boston, and is said to have built the first brick house there.^ The house he afterward built and lived in at New- port, of the quaint old English pattern, was standing within the recollection of many older inhabitants. Mr. Coddington became involved in the Anne Hutchinson controversy, as did Wheelwright, the founder of Exeter. Mrs. Hutchinson M'as banished, and took refuge with Coddington and others on Rhode Island. In the presence ' Harrison, the first architect of his day in New England, was the author of many of the older public buildings in Newport, Trinity Church and Redwood Library among others. He also designed King's Chapel, Boston, and did what he could to drag arcliitecture out of the mire of Puritan ugli- ness and neglect. " He owned, besides his house and garden in Boston, lands at Mount Wollaston, now Qiiincy, Massachusetts. Coddington is mentioned in Samuel Fuller's letter to Bradford, June, 1630. " Mrs. Cottington is dead," he also says. NEWPORT. OF AQUIDNECK. 361 of Governor Winthrop and of Dudley, his deputy; of the assistants, among whom were Endicott, Bradstreet, and Stoughton ; confronted by tlie foremost and liardest-sliell- ed ministers in ,f.. e.^^; v^'2 the colony, such as Hugh Peters, Eliot, and Wil- son, this wom- an defended her- self, almost single- handed and Avitii consummate ad- dress, against a court which had already prejudg- ed her case, and which stubbornly refused, until the very last stage of the proceedings, to put the wit- nesses upon oath. As a specimen of the way in which justice was administered in the early day, and of judicial procedure, this trial is exceedingly curious.' Here is a sj^ecimen of brow-beating that re- calls " Oliver Twist :" Deputy -governor. " Let her witnesses be called." Governor. " Who be they ?" llrs. Hutchinson. "Mr. Leveret, and our teacher, and Mv. Coggeshall." Governor. " Mr. Coggeshall was not present." Mr. Coggeshall. "Yes, but I was, only I desired to be silent until I was called." Governor. "Will you, Mr. Coggeshall, say that she did not say so?" Mr. Coggeshall. "Yes, I dare say that she did not say all that which they lay against her." Jfr. Peters. " How dai-e you look into the court to say such a word ?" 3fr. Coggeshall. " Mr. Peters takes upon him to forbid me. I shall be silent." As the governor was about to pass sentence, Mr. Coddington arose and spoke some manly words : RESIDENCE OF GOVEKNOR CODDINGTON, NEWPORT, 1641. ' It may be found at length in Hutchinson, appendix, vol. ii. Governor Hntcliinson was a rel- ative of the schismatic Anne. 3G2 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. 3Ir. Coddington. " I do think that you are going to censure, therefore I desire to speak a word." Governor. "I jjray you speak." Mr. Coddington. "There is one thing objected against the meetings. What if she designed to edify her own family in her own meetings, may none else be present ?" Governor. " If you have nothing else to say but that, it is a pity, Mr, Cod- dington, that you should interrupt us in proceeding to censure." Despite this reproof, Mr. Coddington had his say, and one of the assistants (Stoughton) insisting, the ministers were compelled to repeat their testimony under oath; which they did after much parleying and with evident reluc- tance. It is curious to observe that in this trial the by-standers were several times appealed to for an expression of opinion on some knotty question.' Had it not involved the liberty and fortunes of many more than the Ilutchinsons, its ludicrous side would scarcely have been surpassed by the celebrated cause of " Bardell vs. Pickwick." There is something inexpressibly touching in the decay of an old and hon- orable name — in the struggle between grinding poverty and hereditary fam- ily })ride. Instead of finding the Coddingtons, as might be expected, among the princes of Newport, a native of the place would only shake his head when questioned of them. Touching the northern limits of Newport is a placid little basin called C^oddington's Cove. It is a remembrancer of the old governor. The last Cod- dington. inherited an ample estate, upon the principal of which, like Heine's monkey, who boiled and ate his own tail, he lived, until there was no more left. The Cossacks have a proverb : " He eats both ends of his candle at once." Having dissipated his ancestral patrimony to the last farthing, the thriftless and degenerate Coddington descended all the steps from shabby gentility to actual destitution ; yet, through all these reverses, he maintained the bearing of a tine gentleman. One day he was oiFered a new suit of clothes — his own had the threadbare gloss of long application of the brush — for the Coddington escutcheon that had descended to him. Drawing himself up with the old look and air, he indignantly exclaimed, " What, sell the coat of arms of a Coddington !" Nevertheless, he at last became an inmate of the poor- house at Coddington's Cove; and that is the way the family escutcheon came to be hanging in the City Hall. I tell you the story as it was told to me. The Wanton House, still pointed out in Thames Street, may be known by its ornamented cornice and general air of superior condition. It stands within a stone's-throw of the City Hall, The Wantons, like the Malbones, Godfreys, Brentons, Wickhams, Cranstons, and other hi, and was wounded by a cannon-ball in the hip. Though a Jew, Judah Touro was above sect, generously contributing to Christian clunch enter- prises. Bunker Hill Monument, toward which he gave ten thousand dollars, is a memorial of his patriotic liberality. ^ It was incorporated 1747 : the same year Mr. Redwood gave five hundred pounds sterling, m books, or about thirteen htmdred volumes. Tlie lot was the gift of Henry Collins, in 1748 ; build- ing erected 1748-50; enlarged in 1758 ; and now (1875) a new building is erecting. Abraham 568 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. His fine and kindly face has been carefully reproduced in the engraving. The library building is in the pure yet severe style of a Greek temple. The ])ainter Stuart considered it classical and refined. It has a cool and secluded look, standing back fi-oni the street and shaded by trees, that is inviting to the appreciative visitor. This is one of the insti- tutions of New- port which all may praise with- out stint. It has gi'own with its growth ; yet, after repeated enlarge- ments, the in- creased collections in art and litera- ture of this store- house of thought have demanded greater space. Another bene- factor worthy to be ranked with Abraham Red- wood was Charles Bird King, whose poi'trait is hanging in the hall. At his death he made a munificent bequest of real estate, yielding nine tliousand dollars, his valuable library, engravings, and more tlian two hundred of the paintings which now adorn the walls. Among other portraits here are those of Bishop Berkeley in canonicals, and of Governor Joseph Wanton, in scarlet coat and periwig, his face looking as if he and good living were no strangers to each other; of William Cod- dington,and of a long catalogue of soldiers and statesmen, many being copies by Mr. King. The library suffered from pilfering during the British occupa- tion : it now numbers something in excess of twenty thousand volumes.' I admit the first object in Newport I went to see was the Old Stone Mill. I went directly to it, and should not venture to conduct the reader by any route that did not lead to it. I returned often, and could only wonder at THE REDWOOD LIBRARY. Eedwood was a native of Antigua. When the library sent its committee to Stuart, with a com- mission to paint a full-length portrait of Mr. Redwood, Stuart refused, for reasons of his own, to execute it. ' Dr. Ezra Stiles was librarian for twenty years. NEWPORT OF AQUIDNECK. 369 the seeming indifference of people constantly passing, but never looking at it. The Old Stone Mill stands within the pleasant inclosure of Tonro'Park, a place as fitting as any in Newport for the beginning of a sentimental jour- ney. It is a pretty sight on a summer's evening, this green spot, dotted with moving figures sauntering up and down under the grim shadow of this pic- turesque ruin.' By moonlight it is superb. No structure in America is probably so familiar to the great mass of the people as this ruined mill. The frequency of pictorial representation has ^xed its general form and character until there is probably not a school-boy in his teens who wouhl not be able to , - ..^™., ....„.,,.- make a rude sketch of it on the black- I " . - -'^ board. For years it has been the toughest historical pihee de resistance our antiquaries have had to deal with, and by many it Avas supposed to em- body a secret as impenetrable as that of Stonehenge. The Old Mill was dozing quietly away on this hill, when, in 1836, the So- ciety of Northern Antiquaries, of Co- penhagen, declared it to be evidence of the discovery and occupation of New- port by Northmen, in the eleventh cen- tury. An historical chain was imme- diately sought to be established be- tween Dighton Rock, an exhumed skel- eton at Fall River, and this tower, of which the inscription at INIonhegan Isl- and was believed to be another link. Common opinion, prior to the dec- laration of the Danish antiquaries, was that the tower was the remains of a windmill, and nothing more. In a gaz- etteer of Rhode Island, printed in 1819, is the following paragraph: "In this town (Newport) there is now standing an ancient stone mill, the erection of which is beyond the date of its earliest records; but it is supposed to have been erected by the first settlers, about one hundred and eighty years ago. It is an interesting monument of antiquity." ABltAHAM KEDWOOD. ' The discovery of any portion of the coast of New England by Northmen belongs to the realms of conjecture. It is not unreasonable to suppose that they may have fallen in with the continent; but what should have brought them so far south as Rhode Island, when Nova Scotia must have ap- jieared to their eyes a paradise? Tlie vine grows there. Champlain called Richmond's Island Isle Ue Bacchus, on account of its grapes. 24 370 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. About this time Timothy Dwigbt, formerly president of Yale, was in Newport. In his letters, published in 1822, he has something to say of the Old Stone Mill: " On a skirt of this town is the foundation of a windmill erected some time in the seventeenth cen- tury. The ce- ment of this work, formed of shell -lime and beach gravel, has all the firmness of lloman mortar, and when bro- ken off frequent- ly brings with it part of the stone. Time has made no impression on it, except to increase its firmness. It would be an im- provement in the art of building in this country, if mortar made in the same manner were to be gener- ally employed."* All readers of early New England history know that nothing was too trivial, in the opinion of those old chroniclers, to be recorded. Winthrop mentions the digging-up of a French coin at Dorchester in 1643. It is per- tinent to inquire wliy Roger Williams, Hubbard, Mather, the antiquary, and correspondent of the Royal Society, Prince, Hutchinson, and others, have wholly ignored the presence of an old ruin antedating the English occupation of Rhode Island? Would not Canonicus have led the white men to the spot, and there recounted the traditions of his people? No spot of ground in New England has had more learned and observing annalists. Where Avere Bishop THE OLD STONE MILL. Travels in New Engl.ind and New York:" New Haven, 1822, vol. iii., p. 56. NEWPORT OF AQUIDNECK. 371 Berkeley, Rocbambeau, Chastellux, Lauzun, Abbe Robin, Segur, Dumas, and Deux -Pouts, that they make no mention, in tlieir -writings or memoirs, of the remarkable archaeological remains at Newport ? Yet, ou the report of the Danish Society, nearly or quite all our American historians have admitted their theory of the origin of the Old Stone Mill to tlieir pages. With tliis leading, and the ready credence the marvelous always obtains, the public rested satisfied.' The windmill was an object of the first necessity to the settlers. More of them may be seen on Rhode Island to- day than in all the rest of New En- gland. That this mill should have been built of stone is in no way surprising, considering that the surface of the ground must have been bestrewed with stones of proper size and shape ready to the builders' hands.^ I saw these flat stones of which the tower is built turned up by the jilowshare in the roads. Throughout the island the walls are composed of them.^ The cut on the preceding page rep- resents the Old Stone Mill, with the moon's radiance illuminating its arches. It is a cylindrical tower, resting on eight rude columns, also circular. The arches have no proper key-stone,* and two of them appear broader than the others, as if designed for the entrance of some kind of vehicle. One column is so placed as to show an inner projec- tion, an evident fault of workmanship. Two stages are also apparent, and THE PERRY MONUMENT. ' Among the records of Newport was found one of 1740, in which Edward Pelham heqiieathed to his daughter eight acres of land, "with an Old Stone Wind Mill thereon standing and being, and commonly called and known as the Mill Field." The lane now called Mill Street ajjpears to have been so named from its conducting up the hill to the mill. The wife of Pelham was grand- daughter of Governor Benedict Arnold. In the governor's will, dated in 1(577, he gives direction for his burial in a piece of ground " being and lying in my land in or near y' line or path from my dwelling-house, leading to my stone-built Wind Mill in y" town of Newport above mentioned." '•^ I incline to the opinion that the Indians had here, as at Plymouth, cleared a considerable area. There the cai-]5enters had to go an eighth of a mile for timber suitable for building. ' Within five miles of Boston is standing an ancient stone windmill, erected about 1710. It had been so long used as a powder-magazine that no tradition remained in the neighborhood that it had ever been a windmill. They still call it the Old Powder-house. * The keys are compound, and, though rude, are tolerably defined. No two are alike ; they are generally of a hard gray stone, instead of the slate used in the structure. 8*72 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. there are two windows and a fire-place. On tlie inside the haunclies are cut to receive the timbers of the first-floor, just at the turn of the arch. Some cement is still seen adhering to the interior walls. The whole tower I estimated to be twenty-five feet high, with an inside diameter of twenty feet. This was probably nearly or quite its original height. For the rude mate- rials, it is a remarkable specimen of masonry,' I could see that even some of the best-informed Newporters with whom I talked were reluctant to let go the traditional antiquity of their Old Stone Mill. It is more interesting when tinged with the romance of Norse vikings than as the prosaic handiwork of English colonists, who had corn to grind, though American antiquaries have ceased to attribute to it any other origin, I confess to a feeling of remorse in aiding to destroy the illusion which has so long made the Old Mill a tower of strength to Newport, Its beauty, when seen draped in ivy and woodbine, clustering so thickly as to screen its gray walls from view, is at least not apocryphal, ' This building may have been mentioned by Church in his account of Philip's War, when, after some display of aversion on the part of a certain captain to a dangerous enterprise, he was advised by tlie Indian fighter to lead his men " to the windmill on Rhode Island, where they would be out of danger." BOAT LANDING. CHAPTER XXIII. PICTURESQUE NEWPORT, "Don't you see the silvery wave ? Don't you hear the voice of God ?" KiRKK White. THERE is a walk of singular beauty along the sea-bluffs that terminate the reverse of the hills on which Newport is built. It is known as the Cliff Walk. Every body Avalks there. A broken wall of rock overhanging or retreating from its base, but always rising liigh above the water, is bor- dered by a foot-path with pleasant windings and elastic turf. The face of the cliff is studded with stony pimples; its formation being the conglomerate, or pudding-stone, intermingled with schists. Color excepted, these rocks really look like the artificial cement used in laying the foundations of ponderous structures. They appear to resist the action of the sea with less power than the granite of the north coast. Masses of fallen rock are grouped along the beach underneath the cliff, around which the rising waves seethe and foam and hiss. A persistent pedestrian, having reached the shore at Easton's Beach, may pass around the southern limb of the island to Fort Adams, He may then make his way back to town by the P'ort Road, or take the little fen-y-bont plying between Newport and Jamestown, on Canonicut, This ramble has been much, yet not undeservingly, pi'aised. S74 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. My first walk here was on one of those rare October clays that are to the New England climate what the bloom is to the peach. The air, after the sun had swept aside the vapors arising from the ocean, was intoxicating ; it was so light and crystal, it seemed as if it might put new life into the most con- firmed valetudinarian. On one side the sea glittered like silvery scales on fine armor. The intruding promontories of Sachuest and Seconnet bathed their feet in tranquil waves ; and as the eye roved along the horizon it lodged an instant on the island known as Cormorant Rock, betrayed by the whiten- ing foam around it. In the farthest sea-board a dark cloud of brooding vapor prolonged the land in seeming, and veiled the approach of ships. THE BEACH. Along the verge of the cliff where I walked the dash of the surf frequent- ly tossed a shower of fine spray as high as the shelf itself, drenching the grass, and immeshing for an instant among its myriad drops the fleeting hues of the rainbow. The rocks had a prevailing purple mass of color, fringed at the edge with green grass, that sometimes crept down the face of the cliff and toyed with its wrinkles. These rocks, constantly varnished by sea -spray, sparkle Avith glancing lights that relieve the hardness of their angular lineaments. As you walk on, they are always presenting new profiles of grotesque resemblances. Yet not a sphinx of them all would tell how long the sea had been battering at their rugged features, or of the fire that had baked their tooth-defying pud- ding — Old Ocean's daily repast. Now and then, when standing on the brink of some table-rock, the plunge of a billow underneath caused a sensible tre- mor. At various points the descent of the cliffs is facilitated by steps, and at proper stages of the tide the outlying rocks are the favorite resort of anglers for tautog, bass, and perch. The Forty Steps are of note as conducting to Conrad's Cave, a favorite haunt of lovers who have heart secrets they may no PICTURESQUE NEWPORT. 375 longer keep. The ways of such people are past finding out. At Niagara vows are whispered at the brink of the cat- aract. Perchance there is a savor of romance about these old sea caverns which plain matter-of-fact folk may not fathom. Turning away from the sea, the rambler perceives the long' line of cot- tages, villas, and country houses, Swiss, Italian,English,or nondescript, to which these territories pertain.' These houses represent the best and at the same time the most rational feature of a semi-res- idence at the sea-side. People are real- ly at home, and may enjoy the natural beauties of their situation without the disadvantages inseparable from hotel life. To be sure, at Newport it is only Murray Hill or Beacon Hill transplant- ed. The social system revolves with much the same regularity as the plan- etary, and with no abatement of its exclusive privileges. But home life or cottage life at the sea-side is within the means of all those possessing mod- erate incomes, who are content to dis- pense with luxury or more house - room than they know what to do Avith ; and it is remarkable how little may serve one's turn where outdoor life is the desideratum. Those who are content to leave all the surplusage at home, whether of frivolity or luggage, and honestly mean to enjoy the shore for itself, come where they may forget the world, the flesh, and money-get- ting. To this sort of life — a hint borrowed of English sea- side customs — Newport has led the way. At Oak Bluffs a city has sprung into existence on this plan, and the shores of New England are dotted with little red-roofed cottages. If he has come to the clifls by the Bath road, the visitor sees, almost at the beginning of his ramble, the summer cot- tage of Charlotte Cushman, whose career has some resem- cliff walk. blance to that of the gifted Mrs. Siddons. Both were poor ' Many of these so-called cottages cost from $50,000 to $200,000. considered a moderate rental, and $5000 is frequently paid. For the season, $2000 is 376 THE NP:W ENGLAND COAST. girls at tlie outset of their professional lives. The Englishwoman, even after slie became famous, usually refused invitations to the houses of the great or opulent, excusing herself from accepting them on the ground that all her time was due to the public, whose continued favor she wished to merit by unremitting application to her studies. Whatever money or taste or art has been able to do toward the em- bellishment of the grounds along the cliffs — and in this category are in- cluded Bellevue and other favor- ed avenues — has not been omitted. A horticulturist would see some- thing to notice everywhere. As the houses stand well back from the shore, the space between is laid out in bright- hued iKtrterres, that look like Persian carpets spread on the well-kept lawns. The eye at times foirly revels in sumptuous mass- es of color. Yet Newport was now deserted by the fashionable world, in the month of months, when sea and shore are incomparably en- ticing and satisfying. In the angle formed by the meeting of Ocean and Carroll avenues is Lily Pond, where knights of the rod love to loiter and cast a line. If still pur- suing the cliffs, you pass by Gooseberry Island, whither the old-time mag- nates were wont to wend for fishing, bathing, and drinking-bouts. Spouting Rock, where, in gales, inrolling seas are forced high in air, lies this way. Bass Rock, of piscatory renown, and Brenton's Reef, the place of wrecks, show their THE CLIFFS. PICTURESQUE NEWPORT. 377 jagged sides. Point Juditli and Block Island are visible from Castle Hill, where in former times a watch-tower stood. No other day of the seven in Newport is quite equal to Fort Day. Then the very long line of equipages directs itself u^ion the point where Fort Adams is located. On this gala-day the commandant keeps open house, with colors fly- ing, music play- ing, and gates opened wide. The procession winds around the parade, a very moving picture of peace in the lap of war. Gay scarfs instead of hattle-flags wave, jewels instead of steel, and dog-carts instead of ammunition-carts flash and rumble. The crash, glitter, and animation are reminders of Hyde Park Corner or the Bois de Boulogne. The soldiers I saw were much improved in appearance since the war, and now seemed really proud of the dress they wore. They paced the jetty and rampart in jaunty sliakos, white gloves, and well-fitting uniforms, as men not ashamed of themselves, and of whom Un- cle Sam need not be ashamed. Fort Adams was begun in the administration of the pres- ident whose name it bears. The iather of the American navy intended Newport as a station for her squadrons of the future. To this end for- A NEWPORT COTTAGE. CHARLOTTE CUSHMAN'S RESIDENCE. tifications were begun, designed to guarantee the approaches to the liarbor. At this time we were dreading our late ally, France, more than any other European power. Fortifying Newport against France now seems incredible, 378 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. yet the Directory, with citizen Talleyrand at the helm, would either mould American politics to its will or trample the ancient amity in the dust. In 1798, a French cruiser, after the capture of several American vessels, had the impudence to bring her prize into one of our own ports to escape the more dreaded English.' Mr, Adams brought citizen Talleyrand and the Directoire Executif to their senses;'' but Mr. Jefterson, who decidedly leaned to the French side of European politics, stopped the work begun by his predecessor. In 1 800, Mr. Humphreys, the .- --':— ^^^=^"==*^ naval constructer, was sent ^j^S^ ^, to examine theNewEngland ^K^ ])orts with regard to their ^^^' eligibility as great national '^' - dock -yards. He reported that Newport possessed by far the most suitable harbor for such an establishment. Fort Adams was chief- ly constructed under the watchful supervision of the accomplished engineer. Gen- eral J. G. Totten. It is said that during the progress of the work a full set of plans of the fortress mysteriously disappeared, and as mysteriously re-appeared after a long interval. It is be- lieved in certain quarters that copies of these drawings might be found in the topographical bureau of the British War Office. Before setting out for the campaign of 1812, the Emperor Napoleon, as Bourrienne relates, wished to have exact information respecting Ragusa and lUyria. He sent for Marmont, whose answers were not satisfactory. He then interrogated different generals to as little purpose. Dejean, inspector of en- gineers, was then summoned. "Have you," demanded the emperor, "among your officers any one who is acquainted with Ragusa ?'" Dejean, after a moment's reflection, answered, "Sire, there is a chief of battalion who has been a long time forgotten, who is well acquainted with Ragusa." "What do you call him?" " Bernard." "Ah, stop a little; Bernard — I recollect that name. Where is he?" SPOUTIIvG KOf'K. ' '"R. Goodloe Harper's Speeches, p. 275." * By smashing their fiigates, L'Insurgente, La Vengeance, Berceau, and making it generally unpleasant for them. PICTURESQUE NEWPORT. 379 "Sire, he is at Antwerp, emi^loyed upon tlie fortifications." " Send notice by the telegraph that he instantly mount his horse and re- pair to Paris." The promptitude with which the emperor's orders were always executed is well known. A few days afterward Bernard was in Paris at the house of General Dejean, and shortly after in the cabinet of the emperor. He was graciously received, and Napoleon immediately said, " Tell me about Ragusa." When Bernard had done speaking, the emperor said, "6Wo;ie/ Bernard, 1 now know Ragusa," He then conversed familiarly with him, and having a I)lan of the works at Antwerp before him, showed how he would successfully besiege the place. The newly made colonel explained so well how he would defend himself against the emperor's attacks that Napoleon was delighted, and immediately bestowed upon him a mark of distinction which, says Bour- rienne, "he never, to my knowledge, granted but upon this one occasion." As he was going to preside at the council he desired Colonel Bernard to ac- company him, and several times during the sitting requested his opinion upon the points under discussion. On the breaking-up of the council, Napoleon said to him, " You are my aid-de-camp." Bourrienne continues: "At the end of the campaign he was made general of brigade; shortly after, general of division; and he is now known through- out Europe as the first officer of engineers in existence. A piece of folly of Clarke's* has deprived France of the services of this distinguished man, who, after refusing most brilliant oflers made to him by different sovereigns of Europe, has retired to the United States of America, where he commands the eno-ineers, and where he has constructed on the side of the Floridas fortifica- tions which are by engineers declared to be masterpieces of military skill. '"^ Bernard came to the United States in 1816, and was associated with the late General Totten in carrying out the now discarded system of sea-coast fortifications. It is said that Colonel M'Cree, then chief of engineers, resigned rather than serve under him. Accord between the French engineer and Colonel Totten Avas only secured by a division of the Avorks, and agreement to accept, on the part of each, the other's plans. Bernard wished to construct one great fortress, like Antwerp or the once famous strongholds of the Quad- rilateral, Fortress Monroe is the result of this idea. He also planned the defenses of Mobile.^ From Fort Adams it is a short sail across to the Dumplings, and the cir- cular tower of stone, built also in the administration of John Adams. This work, now in ruins, is second only in picturesqueness to the Old Stone Mill, * Duke de Eeltre, French minister of war. * He afterward returned to France, and was made minister of war, ' Fort Morgan was constructed by him with twelve posterns, a statement significant to military engineers. General Totten closed six of them, and the Confederates, when besieged, all but two. 380 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. if indeed it should yield the first place to that singular structure. The para- pet has crumbled, and the bomb-proofs are choked with rubbish. It is about a hundred feet from the crown of the parapet to the water, and, thougli the elevation is inconsiderable, is one of the choice points of observation in ISTarraganset Bay. The neighboring rocks are of good report among fisher- men, and the tower and its neighbor- hood are places much afl:ected by pic- nic parties. Taken altogether, the old fort on Canonicut, with its swarthy rock foundations, is one of the last objects to fade from the recollection. Seen with the setting sun gilding the broken rampart or glancing from out its blackened embrasures, it embodies something of the idea of an antique castle by the sea. THE DUMPLINGS. Belug here on the island of Canon- icut, the visitor will find it pleasant sauntering along the shores, or across a broad, smooth road leading to the farther side of the island and the ferry to tlie opposite main-land. The water between is called the Western Passage. When I saw it, not fewer than a hundred vessels were lying wind-bound, their sails spread to catch the first puff of the land-breeze. Dutch Island, with its light-house, appears in full view, about midway of the passage. The rock formation of this side of Canonicut is largely slate, with abundant in- trusion of white quartz. Along the beach the slate is so decomposed as to give way to the pressure of the foot. Canonicut is a beautiful island, with graceful slopes and fertile soil. It is here, on the northern end, a cottage city is designed of summer houses, access- ible to people who do not keep footmen or carriages, or give champagne breakfasts. Five hundred acres have been laid out in avenues, parks, and drives: the shores, by special reservation, are to remain forever open for the equal enjoyment of all who resort hither.' At the coming of D'Estaing and the French fleet, Canonicut was garri- soned by Brown's provincial corps, and two regiments of Anspach, who were compelled to evacuate it. The French land troops then took possession of ' Canonicut is about seven miles long, its longest axis lying almost north and south. It in- cludes a single township, incorporated 1G78, by the name of Jamestown. The island was pur- chased from the Indians in lGo7. Prudence Island, si.x miles long, is also attached to James- town. PICTURESQUE NEWPORT. 381 the Dumpling ami Beaver Tail batteries.' In the year 1V49 a light-house was erected on Beaver Tail. Newport has not treasured the memory of the Hessians. They were never in favor, being about equally feared and hated. At the battle of Long Island they pinned American soldiers to the trees with their bayo- nets. Loaded down with arras and accoutrements, they marched and fought with equal phlegm. As for- agers they were even more to be dreaded than in battle, as they usually stripped a garden or a house of its last root or crust. Brutalized by the removal of the only incentive that is honorable in the soldier, they lived or died at so much per head. Newport as a British garrison was the resort of numbers of courtesans, many of whom had followed the army from New York. Quarrels between Hessian and British officers, growing out of their amours, were frequent. A Hessian major and captain at last fought a duel about a woman of the town, in which glorious cause the ma- jor was run through the body and killed. General Prescott then ordered all the authors of these troubles to be confined in Newport jail. Driving in Newport is one of the duties the fashionable world owes to itself and to society. On every fine day between four in the afternoon and dusk Bellevue Avenue is thronged with equipages, equestrians, and promenaders. Nowhere in America can so many elegant turnouts be seen as here: every species of vehicle known to the wheeled vocabulary is in requisition. The cortege is not, as might be sup- posed, a racing mob, but a decorous-paced, well-reined procession— a sort of reunion upon wheels of all that is brilliant and fixscinating in Newport society. The quiet though elegant carriages with crests on them are Bostonian ; the most "stylish" horse-furniture and mettled horses are at home in Central UESSIAN GRENADIEK. • At tliis time four British frigates atid several smaller craft were destroyed. The French forced the passage on tlie west of Canonicnt, and raised the hlockade of Providence. 382 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. Park; Philadelphia is self-contain- ed, and of substantial elegance. Imagine this pageant of beautifnl women and cultivated men pass- ing and repassing, mingling and separating, smiling, saluting, admir- ing, and admired ; the steady beat of hoofs on the hard gravel and continu- ous roll of wheels proceeding without intermission, until the whole becomes bewildering, confused, and indistinct, as if the whirl of wheels were indeed " in your brain." When " The Drive " is spoken of, that through Bellevue and Ocean avenues — with, on Fort days (Wednesdays and Fiidays), the detour to the fortress and so back to town — is meant. Another charming drive is by the Bath road, then skirting the beaches, to continue on through Middletown, where the hills are still blistered with the remains of Revolutionary intrenchments. Paradise and Purgatory are both reached by this road, and are within easy distance of any part of Newport. On two occasions when I ci'ossed the beaches the sea was running too heavily to raal The first bridge spanning what was known as Howland's Ferry was completed in 1795. It was of wood, destroyed and swept to sea by a storm ; rebuilt, and again destroyed by worms. The present stone structure was built in 1809-10, and, though injured by the gale of 1815, stands firm. ^ The battle was fought in the valley below Quaker, sometimes called Meeting-house, Hill. Sul- livan commanded in chief, though Greene is entitled to a large share of the credit of repulsmg the British attack. It was a well-fought action. Pigot, by British accounts, had six thousand regular troops. Lafayette was mad as a March hare at their fighting without him. 414 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. QUAKER HILL FROM BUTTS'S HILL, LOOKING SOUTH. numbers were so much augmented that some of the settlers removed to the southern or western shores. The island was divided into two townships — — Portsmouth, which now engrosses its upper half, and Newport. In 1644 they named it the Isle of Rhodes, which was merely exchanging one pagan name for another.* Mount Hope is scarcely more than two hundred feet high, though in its isolation it looks higher. It is commandingly situated on a point of land on the eastern shore of Bristol Neck, giving its name to a broad expanse of wa- ter that receives Taunton Kiver in its course to the sea. On the eastern side the hill is precipitous, vastly more so than Horse Neck, down which the val- iant Putnam urged his steed when pursued by British dragoons. Down this declivity Philip is said to have rolled like a cask when surprised by white enemies. Here, on the shores of Taunton River, is the scene of those hand-to- hand encounters between settler and savage in which the old historians are wont to mix up gunpowder with religion so perplexedly. In those days the fall of a red chieftain on the huntin^-crrounds of his fathers was hailed as a BATTLE GKOL^D Oi aLl.L-,! JU, 177b ' Lechford, writing between 1037 and 1641, says: "At the island called Aquedney are abont two hundred families. There was a church where one Master Clark was elder : the place where the church was is called Newport, but that church, I hear, is now dissolved. At the other end of the island there is another town called Portsmouth, but no church. Those of the island have a pretended civil government of their own erection without the king's patent." TO MOUNT HOPE, AND BEYOND. 415 special providence. Mount Hope was the sequel of Samoset's "Welcome, Englishmen," By the river, in the forked branches of blasted sycamores, the fish-hawk builds and broods. Their nests are made of dried eel-grass from the shore interwoven with twigs. Tlie shrill scream of the female at my coming was answered by the cry of the male, who left his fishing out on the river at the first sio-nal of distress. An old traveler says this bird sometimes seems to lie expanded on the water, he hovers so close to it. Having by some attractive power drawn the fish within his reach, he darts suddenly upon them. The charm he makes use of is supposed to be an oil contained in a small bag in the body. In defense of his mate and her young the bird seems to forget fear. After many agreeable surprises already encountered, I was unprepared for what I saw from the summit of Mount Hope. I felt it was good to be there. Every town in Rhode Island is said to be visible. All the islands dispersed about the bay are revealed at a glance. Glimmering in the dis- tance was Providence. On the farther shore of Mount Hope Bay, Fall River appeared niched in the sheer side of a granite ledge. Here were Warren and Bristol, there Warwick; and, far down the greater bay, Newport was swathed in a hazy cloud. I had made a long walk, yet felt no fatigue, on the top of Mount Hope. Near the brow of the hill Philip fixed his wigwam and held his dusky court. He has had Irving for his biographer, Southey for his bard, and Forrest for his ideal representative. In his own time he was the public enemy whom any should slay; in ours he is considered as a mar- tyr to the idea of liberty— his idea of liberty not diftcring from that of Tell and Toussaint, whom we call heroes. Philip did not comprehend the religion of the whites, but as he under- stood their policy he naturally distrusted their faith. When the propliet Eliot preached to him, he went up to that good man, and, pulling off a but- ton from his doublet, said he valued his discourse as little as the piece of Itjvass — " the monster !" exclaims pious Cotton IMather. Such hills as INIount Hope were the settlers' sun-dials, Avhen clocks and watches were luxuries known only to the wealthy few. The crest is a green KING PniLIP, FROM AN OLD PRINT. 416 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. nipple, having quartz cropping out everywhere; in fact, the basis of the hill is nearly a solid mass of quartz. Between the site of Philip's wigwam and the shore, where the escarpment is fifty feet, is a natural excavation, five or six feet from the ground, called "Philip's Throne." A small grass-plot is be- fore it, and at its foot trickles a never - failing spring of water, known as " Philip's Spring." The manner of Philip's death, as given in Church's history, is considered authentic. Church's party crossed the ferry, and reached Mount Hope about midnight. Detachments were placed in ambush at all the avenues of escape. Captain Golding, with a number of picked men and a guide, was ordered to assault the stronghold by break of day. One of Philip's Indians having showed himself, Golding fired a volley into the camp. The Indians then fled to the neighboring swamp, Philip the foremost. Having gained the shore, he ran directly upon Church's ambuscade. An Englishman snapped his gun at him without effect, when his companion, one of Church's Indian soldiers, sent a bullet through the heart of the chief He fell on his face in the mud and water, with his gun under him. After the fight was over. Church ordered the body to be quartered and decapitated. The executioner was also an Indian, and before he struck the body made a short speech to it. Philip's head was taken to Plymouth in triumph, where, arriving on the very day the church was keeping a solemn thanksgiving, in the words of Mather, " God sent 'em in the head of a leviathan for a thanksgiving feast." I made the ascent of Mount Hope from the south, where it is gradual ; but on the west, where I descended, I found it abrupt, and covered with a grove of oak-trees sprinkled with stones among fern. With the exception of a few tumble-down stone walls that cross it, and now and then a cow quietly crop- ping the herbage, it is as wild as when it was the eyrie of the proud-spirited chieftain, " the Last of the Wampanoags." At Bristol the railway will set you down opposite to Fall River, or by returning to Bristol ferry you may take, on the Rhode Island side, the rail for Dighton and its sculptured rock. This rock, which has puzzled so many learned brains both of the Old World and the New, lies near the eastern shore of Taunton River, opposite Dighton wharves.^ I wanted two things in Dighton — direction to the rock, and a skiff to cross the river to it. An ancient builder of boats, very tall and very lank. INSCRIPTION ON DIGHTON ROCK. ' To be exact, the shores adjacent to the rock are in the town of Berkeley, formerly part of Dighton. TO MOUNT HOPE, AND BEYOND. 41 V having- his adze in his liand and his admeasurements chalked on the toes of his boots, supplied me with both. "What on airth do you want to look at that rock for?" he expostulated rather than questioned. "I'd as lief look at the side of that house," pointing to his work-shop. "You do not seem to value your archaeological remains overmuch," I sub- mitted. "Bless you, I knew a gal born and brought up right in sight of that air rock, who got married and went to Baltimore to live, without ever having sot eyes on it. When she had staid there a spell she heard so much about Dinh- ton Rock, she came all the way back a purpose to see it. I^ee-ma\e curiosity, you see, sir." The river is half a mile broad at Dighton, with low, uninteresting shores. The " Writing Rock," a large boulder of fine-grained greenstone, is submerged either wholly or in part by the tidal flow, but when uncovered presents a smooth face, slightly inclined toward the open river. When so close as to lay hold of it, you are aware of faint impressions on its surface, yet these have be- come so nearly efiaced by the action of the tides and the chafing of drift ice as to be fragmentary, and therefore disappointing. As is usual, the action of the salt air has turned this, as other rocks by the shores, to a dusky red color. Seventy years ago the characters or lines traced on the rock were by actual measurement an inch in breadth by half an inch in depth, and distinct enough to attract attention from the decks of passing vessels. The rock is first mentioned, says Schoolcraft, in a sermon of Dr. Danforth, of 1680. The river had then been frequented by white men for sixty years. It is next alluded to in the dedication of a sermon to Sir 11. Ashurst by Cotton Mather, in these words: "Among the other curiosities of New England one is that of a mighty rock, on a perpendicular side whereof, by a river which at high tide covers part of it, there are very deeply engraved, no man alive knows how or when, about half a score lines near ten foot long and a foot and a half broad, filled with strange characters, which would suggest as odd thoughts about them that were here before us as there are odd shapes in that elaborate monument, whereof you shall see the fii'st line transcribed here." In the " Philosophical Transactions " of the Royal Society of London, cov- ering a period from 1*700 to 1720, are several communications from Cotton Mather, one of which (part iv., p. 112) is as follows: "At Taunton, by the side of a tiding river, part in, part out of the river, is a large Rock ; on the perpendicular side of which, next to the Stream, are seven or eight lines, about seven or eight foot long, and about a foot wide, each of them ingraven with unaccountable characters, not like any known character."' ' A coj)y of tlie inscription, made by I'rofessor Sewall, is deposited in the Miiseuni at Cambiidge. 27 418 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. Schoolcraft believed the work to have been performed by Indians. Wash- ington, who had some knowledge of their hieroglyphics, was of this opinion. Dr. Belknap asserts that they were acquainted with sculpture, and also in- stances their descriptive drawings on the bark of trees. Sculptured rocks, of which the origin is unknown, have been found in other locations in the United States. Since the unsettling of Norse traditions, the characters on Dighton Rock are generally admitted to be of Indian creation ; but if the Avork of white men, it would strengthen the theory of Verazzani's presence in these waters. Another link of the supposed discovery by Northmen was the skeleton exhumed about 1834 at Fall River. It was found in a sitting posture, having a plate of brass upon its breast, with arrow-heads of the same metal lying near, thin, flat, and of triangular shape. The arrows had been contained within a quiver of bark, that fell in pieces when exposed to the air. Tlie most re- markable thing about the remains was a belt encircling the body, composed of brass tubes four and a half inches in length, the width of the belt, and placed close together longitudinally. The breastplate, belt, and arrow-heads were considered so many evidences that the skeleton was that of some Scandinavian who had died and been buried here by the natives. An antiquary would of course prize a dead Scandinavian more than many living ones. These mouldering bones and corroded trinkets were not, how- ever, the key to Dighton Rock. The mode of sepulture was that practiced by the natives of this continent. In Archer's account of Gosnold's voyage he speaks of the Indians on the south of Cape Cod as follows: "This day there came unto the ship's side divers canoes, the Indians ap- pareled as aforesaid, with tobacco and pipes steeled with copper, skins, arti- ficial strings, and other trifles, to barter; one had hanging about his neck a plate of rich copper, in length a foot, in breadth half a foot, for a breastplate." John Brereton, of*the same voyage, tells ns more of the Indians of the Elizabeth Islands: "They have also gi-eat store of copper, some very red, and some of a paler color; none of them but have chains, ear-rings, or collars of this metal : they had some of their arrows herewith, much like our broad arrow-heads, very workmanly made. Their chains are many hollow pieces cemented together, each piece of the bigness of one of our reeds, a finger in length, ten or twelve of them together on a string, which they wear about their necks ; their collars they wear about their bodies like bandeliers, a hand- ful broad, all hollow pieces like the other, but somewhat shorter, four hun- dred pieces in a collar, very fine and evenly set together." Were this evi- There is another cop}', by James Winthrop ; see plate in vol. iii., "Memoir American Academy," and description of method of taking it, vol. ii., part ii., p. 126. Many others have been taken, more or less imperfect; the best one recollected is in the hall of the Antiquarian Society, Worcester, Massachusetts. TO MOUNT HOPE, AND BEYOND. 419 dence less positive, ^vc know from Cliamplaiii that tlie Indians would never have permitted the body of a stranger to remain buried longer than was necessary to disinter and despoil it. Verazzani's letter mentions the posses- sion of copper trinkets by the Indians. About two miles and a half from Taunton Green is the Leonard Foro-e, the oldest in America. Tlie spot is exceedingly picturesque. The brook, overliung by trees, which of yore turned the mill-wheel, glides beneath a rustic bridge ere it tumbles over the dam and hurries on to meet the river. James and Henry Leonard built the forge in 1652. Near the spot is the site of the dwelling they occupied, one of the dis- tinctive old struc- tures of its day. Philip lived in am- ity with the Leon- ards, who made for him spear and ar- row heads when he came to hunt at the Fowling Pond, not far from the forge, where hehad a hunting - lodge. When he had re- solved to strike the English, it is said he gave strict orders not to hurt those Leonards, his good friends of the forge. Ti-aditiou has it that his head was afterward kept in the house some days. My pilgrimage among the haunts of the Narragansets and Wampanoags of old fame extended no farther. Setting my face again toward the sea, when on board one of those floating hotels that ])ly between Fall Eiver and New York, I thought of the prediction I had cut from the Boston Daily Adver- tiser of just half a century ago: "We believe the time will not be far distant when a steamboat will be provided to run regularly between New York and Taunton River, to come to Fall River and Dighton, and perhaps to- the whaiwes in Taunton, a mile below the village. This route from New York to Boston would in some respects be 2:)referable to that through Providence." OLD LEONAKD HOUSE, KAYNUAM. NEW LONDON IN 1813. CHAPTER XXVII. NEW LONDON AND NORWICH. "It seems that you take pleasure in these walks, sir." — Massinger. "T^TEW LONDON is a city hiding within a river, three miles from its meet- -^^ ing with the waters of Long Island Sound. On the farthest seaward point of the western shore is a light-house. Before, and yet a little eastward of the river's mouth, is an island about nine miles long screening it from the full power of Atlantic storms, and forming, with Watch Hill,' the prolongation of the broken line of land stretching out into the Sound from the northern limb of the Long Island shore. Through this barrier, thrown across the en- trance to the Sound, all vessels must pass. The island is Fisher's Island. It seems placed on purpose to turn into the Thames all commerce winging its way eastward. Across the Avestern extremity of Fisher's Island, on a fair night, New London and Montauk lights exchange burning glances. From AVatch Hill the low and distant shore of Long Island is easily distinguished by day, and by night its beacon-light flashes an answer to its twin-brother of Montauk. These two towers are the Pillars of Hercules of the Sound, on which are hung the long and radiant gleams that bridge its gate-way. South-west of Fisher's Island are the two Gull Islets, on the smallest of ' Watch Hill, in the town of Westerly and near Stonington, is the soutli-westeiii extremity of Rhode Island. NEW LONDON AND NORWICH. 421 which is a light -house. The swift tide which washes them is called the Horse-race. Next comes Plum Island, separated from the Long Island shore by a narrow and swift channel known as Plum Gut, through which cunning yachtsmen sometimes steer. In 1667, Samuel Wyllys, of Hartford, bought Plum Island for a barrel of biscuit and a hundred awls and fish-hooks. Any one who looks at the long ellipse of water embraced within Lono- Island and the Connecticut shore, and remarks the narrow and obstructed channel through which it communicates with the Hudson, the chain of islands at its meeting M'ith the ocean on the east, must be impressed with the belief that he is beholding one of the greatest physical changes that have occurred on the New England coast. As it is, Long Island Sound lacks little of being an inland sea. The absence of any certain indications of the channels of the rivers emptying into the Sound west of the Connecticut favors. the theory of the union, at some former time, of Long Island at its western end with the main-land. To resume our survey of the coast, we see on the map, about midway be- tween Point Judith and Montauk, the pear-shaped spot of land protruding NEW LONDON HARBOR, NORTH VIEW. above the ocean called Block Island.' It is about eight miles long, diversified with abrupt hills and narrow dales, but destitute of trees. A chain of ponds extending from the north and nearly to the centre, with several separate and smaller ones, constitutes about one-seventh of the island. There is no ship harbor^ and in bad weather fishing-boats are obliged to be hauled on shore, though the sea -mole in process of construction by Government will afford both haven and safeguard against the surges of the Atlantic; for the island, having no rock foundation, is constantly Avasting away. Cottages of wood, whitewashed every spring, ai'e scattered promiscuously over the island, with wretched roads or lanes to accommodate every dwelling. The total disap- pearance of the island has often been predicted, and I recollect when the im- ' Named from Captain Adrian Blok, a Dutch navigator. Its Indian name was Manisses. There are about twelve hundred inhabitants on this island, all native-born, of whom two hun- dred and seventy-five are voters. There are also six schools, two Baptist churches, and two wind- mills, a hotel, and several summer boarding-houses. Two hundred fishing-boats are owned by the islanders. In 163G John Oldham, mentioned in our ramble in Plymouth, was murdered here by the Pequots. Block Island in 1 G72 was made a township, by the name of New Shoreham. 422 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. pvession prevailed to some extent on the main-land that the islanders had only an eye apiece. Ascending now the river toward New London, wind, tide, or steam shall sweep us under the granite battle- ments of Fort Trumbull, on the one side, and the grassy mounds of Fort Griswold on the other.' Near the latter is standing a monument commemorating the infamy of Benedict Arnold and the heroism of a handful of brave men sacrificed to what is called the chances of war. New London is seen straggling up the side of a steep and rocky hill, dominated by three pointed steeples. De- scending from the crest, its principal street opens like the mouth of a tunnel at the water-side into a broad space, always its market- place and chief landing. Other avenues follow the natural shelf above the shore, or find their way de- viously as streams might down the hill-side. The glory of New London is in its trees, though in some streets they stand so thick as to exclude the sun-light, and oppress the wayfarer with the feeling of walking in a church- yard. The destruction of New London by Arnold's command, in 1781, has left little that is suggestive of its beginning. Its English settlement goes no farther back than 1646. In that year and the next a band of pioneers from the Massachusetts colony, among whom was John Winthrop, Jnn.,^ built their cottages, and made these wilds echo with the sounds of their industry. NEW LONDON LIGHT. ' The two forts, Trumbull and Griswold, are named from governors of Connecticut. They date from the Revolution. Fort Trumbull in its present form was completed in 1849, under the super- vision of General G. W. Cullum, U. S. A. In passing through New London in April, 1776, General Knox, by Washington's direction, examined the harbor with the view of erecting forti- fications, and reported, by letter, that it would, in connection with Newport, afford a safe retreat to the American navy or its prizes in any wind that blew. * Son of Governor Winthrop, of Massachusetts. He passed his first winter on Fisher's Island, which remained in his family through six generations. The valuable manuscript collection known as the Winthrop papers was found some years ago on the island, which belongs to New York in consequence of the grants to the Earl of Sterling and the Duke of York. The origin of its present NEW LONDON AND NORWICH. 423 Old London and Father Thames are repeated in New England, because, as these honest settlers avow, they loved the old names as much as they disliked the barbaric sounds of the aborig- inal ones, though the latter were always typical of some salient characteristic. They settled upon the fair Mohegan, in the coun- try of the Pequots, a race fierce and war- ^^" ^^^^^ °°u^^' ^««^ tkumbull. like, who in 1637 had made a death-grapple of it with the pale-faces, and had been blotted out from among the red nations. Pequot was the name of the harbor, changed in 1658 to New London. I first visited New London in 1845. It was then a bustling place — a lit- tle too bustling, perhaps, when rival crews of whalemen in port joined battle in the market-place, unpaving the street of its oyster-shells, and shouting war- cries never before heard except at Otaheite or Juan Fernandez. A large fleet of vessels, engaged in whaling and sealing voyages, then sailed out of the Thames. The few old hulks laid up at the wharves, the rusty-looking oil-butts and discarded paraphernalia pertaining to the fishery, yet reminded me of the hunters who lassoed the wild coursers of sea-prairies.' I have already confessed to a weakness for the wharves. There is one in New London, approjjriated to the use of the Light-house Board, on which are piled hollow iron cylinders, spare anchors, chain cables, spars and spindles, buoys and beacons. A" relief" light-ship, and a tug-boat with steam up, lay beside it. The danger and privation of life in a light-house is not to be com- pared with that on board the light-ship, which is towed to its station on some dangerous shoal or near some reef, and there anchored. It not unfrequent- ly happens in violent storms that the light-ship breaks from its moorings, and meets the fate it was intended to signal to other craft.^ The sight of a name is uncertain, though so called as early as 1636. Governor Winthrop relates to Cotton Mather a singular incident which happened on Fisher's Island the previous winter. During the severe snow-storms hundreds of sheep, besides cattle and horses, were buried in the snow. Even the wild beasts came into the settlements for shelter. Twenty-eight days after the storm alluded to, the tenants of Fisher's Island, in extricating the bodies of a hundred sheep from one bank of snow in the valley, found two alive in the drift, where they had subsisted by eating the fleeces of those lying dead near them. ' In 1834 New London employed thirty-six vessels in whaling and sealing. A few are still en- gaged in the latter fishery, in the extreme navigable waters of the Arctic and Antarctic seas. ^ During the unexampled cold of the past winter (IST-i-'T")), the liglit-boat ofi" New London was, in fact, carried away from her moorings by an ice-field, and many others all along the coast were stranded. 424 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. rao-inor sea as hisch as the decks of the vessel is one familiar to these hardy mariners. When I expressed surprise that men were willing to hazard their lives on these cockle-shells, a veteran sea-dog glanced at the scanty sail his vessel carried as he replied, "We can get somewhere." On the light-ship the lanterns are protected by little houses, built around each mast, until lighted, when they are hoisted to the mast-head. A fog-bell is carried on the forecastle to be tolled in thick weather. A more funereal sound than its monotone, deep and heavy, vibrating across a sea shrouded in mist, can scarcely be imagined. A LiGHT-Snir ON KER STATION. Old sailors are considered to make the best keepers of either floating or stationary beacons. Their long habit of keeping watches on shipboard ren- ders them more reliable than landsmen to turn out in all kinds of weather, or on a sudden call. They are also far more observant of changes of the weath- er, of tides, or the position of passing vessels. I have found many persons in charge of our sea-coast lights who had been ship-masters, and were men of more tlian ordinary intelligence. When the Fresnel lenticular light was be- ing considered, it was objected by those having our system in charge that it would be difficult to procure keepers of sufficient intelligence to manage the lens apparatus. M. Fresnel replied that this difficulty had been most singu- larly exaggerated, as in France the country keepers belonged almost always IS'EW LONDON AND NOIIWICH. 425 COURT-HOUSE, NEW LONDON. to the class of ordinary mechanics or laborers, who, with eight or ten days' instruction, were able to perform their duties satisfactorily.' All visitors to New London find their way, sooner or later, to the Old Hempstead House, a venerable _ roof dotted with moss-tufts, situ- ated on Jay Street, not far west of the court-house. It is one of the few antiques which time and the flames have spared. As one of the old garrison-houses standing in the midst of a populous city, it is an eloquent reminder of the race it has outlived. It was built and occupied by Sir Robert Hemp- stead, descending as entailed prop- erty to the seventh generation, who continued to inhabit it. The Hempstead House is near the cove around which the first settlement of the town appears to have clustered. Tlie last remaining house built by the first settlers stood about half a mile west of the court-house, on what was called Cape Ann Street: it was taken down about 1824. Governor Winthrop lived at the head of the cove bearing his name at the north end of the city. The court-house standing at the head of State (formerly Court) Street lias the date of 1784 on the pediment, having been rebuilt after the burning of the town by Arnold.^ At the other end of the street was the jail. The court-house, which formerly had an exterior gallery, has a certain family re- semblance to the State-house at Newport. It is built of wood, with some attempt at ornamentation. Freshened up with white paint and green blinds, it looked remarkably unlike a seat of justice, which is usually dirty enough in all its courts to be blind indeed. In the chancel of St. James's repose the ashes of Samuel Seabury, the first Anglican bishop in the United States. He took orders in 1753 in London, and on returning to his native country entered upon the work of his ministry. In 1775, having subscribed to a royalist protest, declaring his " abhorrence of all unlawful congresses and committees," he was seized by the Whigs, and confined in New Haven jail. Later in the Avar, he became chaplain of Colonel ' At the light-houses I have visited in cold weather, the unvarving complaint is made of the poor quality of the oil furnished hy the Liglit-house Board. One keeper told me he was ohliged to shovel the congealed lard-oil out of the tank in the oil-room, and carry it into tlie dwelling, some rods distant, to heat it on his stove ; sometimes repeating the operation frequently daring tiie niglit, in order to keep his light burning. " It is shown in the view of New London in 1813, at tlie head of this chapter. 426 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. Fanning's regiment of American loyalists. After the war, Mr. Seabury went to England in order to obtain consecration as bishop, but, meeting with ob- stacles there, he was conse- crated in Scotland by three non - juring bishops. The monument reproduced is from the old burying-ground of New London.' The ancient burial-place of New London is in the northern part of the city, on An old fractured slab of red sand- BISHOP SEABDRT'S MONUMENT. elevated ground, not far from the river stone once bore the now illegible inscription : "An epitaph on Captaine Richard Lord, deceased May 17, 1662, Aetatis svae 51. " Bright starre of ovr chivallrie lies here To the state a covnsellorr fvU deare And to ye trvth a friend of sweete content To Hartford towne a silver ornament Who can deny to poore he was releife And in composing paroxyies he was cheife To Marchantes as a patterne he might stand Adventring dangers new by sea and land." The harbor of New London being considered one of the best in New En- gland, its claim to be a naval station has been urged from time to time upon the General Government. It is spacious, safe, and deep. During the past winter, which has so severely tested the capabilities of our coast harbors, closing many of them with an ice-blockade of long continuance, that of New London has remained open. In 1835, when the navigation of the harbor of New York was suspended, by being solidly frozen. New London harbor re- remained unobstructed, vessels entering and departing as in summer.^ Among other observations made among the shipping, I may mention the operations of the destructive worm that perforates a ship's bottom or a thick ' Bishop Seabury was born in 1728, and died in 1796, aged G8. In person he was large, ro- bust, and vigorous ; dignified and commanding in appearance, and loved by his parishioners of low estate. After consecration he discharged the functions of bishop of the diocese of Connecticut and Rhode Island. " The months of January and February, 1875, will be long remembered in New England for the intense and long-continued cold weather. Long Island Sound was a vast ice-field, which sealed up its harbors. For a time navigation was entirely suspended, the boats usually plying between New- port, Stonington, New London, and New York being obliged to discontinue their voyages. Gar- diner's Bay was completely closed. The shore of Long Island, on its ocean side, was strewed with great blocks of ice. An unusual number of disasters signalized the ice embargo throughout the whole extent of the New England coast. NEW LONDON AND NORWICH. 427 UliOTON MOIsLMENT. Stick of timber with equal ease, I now had an opportunity of confirming what I had often been told, yet scarcely credited, that the worm could be distinctly heard while boring. The sound made by the borer exactly resem- bled that of an auger. It is not a little surprising to reflect that so in- significant a worm — not longer than a cambric needle when it first attacks the wood — is able to peneti-ate solid oak. I noticed evidences where these dreaded workmen were still busy, in little dust-heaps lying on the timber not yet removed from a vessel. With the aid of a wheezy ferry- boat that landed me on Groton side, I still pursued my questionings or communings under the inspiration of a sunny afternoon, a transparent air, and a breeze brisk and bracing, bring- ing with it the full flavor of the sea. A climb up the steep ascent leading to the old fort was rewarded by tlie most captivating views, and by gales that are above blowing in the super- heated streets of a city. The granite monument, which is our guide to the events these heights have witnessed, was built with the aid of a lottery. A marble tablet placed above its entrance is inscribed : This Monument was erected under the patronage of the State of Connecticut, a.d. 1830, and in the 55th year of the Independence of the U. S. A., In Memory of the Brave Patriots who fell in the massacre of Fort Griswold, near this spot, on the 6th of September, a.d. 1781, When the British, under the command of the Traitor, BENEDICT ARNOLD, burnt the towns of New London and Groton, and spread desolation and woe throughout this region. Westminster Abbey could not blot out that arraignment. Dr. Johnson did not know Benedict Arnold when he said, "Patriotism is the last refuge of a scoundrel." An American school -boy, if asked to name the greatest villain the world has produced, would unhesitatingly reply, "The traitor, Benedict Arnold." The sentence which history has passed upon him is eternal. Some voice is always repeating it. Shortly after the peace of '83 Arnold was presented at court. While the king was conversing with him. Earl Balcarras, who had fought with Bur- croyne in America, was announced. The king introduced them. 428 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. " What, sire," exclaimed the hauglity old earl, refusing his hand, " the trai- tor Arnold !" The consequence was a challenge from Arnold. The parties met, and it was arranged they should fire together. Arnold fired at the signal, but the carl, flinging down his pistol, turned on liis heel, and was walking away, when his adversary called out, "Why don't you fire, my lord?" "Sir," said the earl, looking over his shoulder, "I leave you to the execu- tioner." The British attack on New London was not a blind sti'oke of j^remeditated cruelty, but a part of the only real grand strategy developed since the cam- paign of Trenton. Sir Henry Clinton liad been completely deceived by Washington's movement upon Yorktown, and now launched his expedition upon Connecticut, with the hope of arresting his greater adversary's prog- ress. Arnold was the suitable instrument for such work. The expedition of 1781 landed on both sides of the harbor, one detach- ment under command of the traitor himself, near the light-house, the other at Groton Point. Fort Trumbull, being untenable, was evacuated, its little gar- rison crossing the river to Fort Griswold. Encountering nothing on his march except a desultory fire from scattered parties, Arnold entered New London, and proceeded to burn the shipping and warehouses near the river. In his official dispatch he disavows the general destruction of the town which en- sued, but the testimony is conclusive that dwellings were fired and jjlundered in every direction by his troops, and under his eye.' The force that landed upon Groton side was led by Lieutenant-colonel Eyre against Fort Griswold, wliich then contained one hundred and fifty men, imder Lieutenant-colonel William Ledyard, cousin of the celebrated traveler. Tiie surrender of the fort being demanded and refused, the British assaulted it on three sides. They were resisted with determined courage, but at length effected an entrance into the work. Eyre had been wounded, and his suc- cessor, Montgomery, killed in the assault. Finding himself overpowered, Led- yard advanced and offered his sword to Major Bromfield, now in command of the enemy, who asked, " Who commands this fort ?" "I did," courteously replied Ledyard ; " but you do now." Bromfield immediately stabbed Ledyard Avith his own sword, and the hero fell dead at the feet of the coward and assassin.* This revolting deed ' In all, the British destroyed one hundred and forty-three buildings, sixty-five of which were dwellings, and including the court-house, jail, and church. ^ In the Wadsworth Museum, Hartford, the vest and shirt worn by Ledyard on the day of his death, are still shown to the visitoi-. Lafayette, when attacking the British redoubt at York- town, ordered his men, it is said with "Washington's consent, to "remember New London." The continental soldiers could not or would not execute tlie command on prisoners who begged their lives on their knees. NEW LONDON AND NORWICH. 429 was reserved for a Tory officer, of whom Arnold officially writes Sir H. Clin- ton, his "behavior on this occasion does him great honor." The survivors of the garrison were nearly all put to the sword, and even the wounded treated with incredible cruelty.' Fort Griswold is a parallelogram, having a foundation of rough stone, on which very thick and solid embankments have been raised. It is the best preserved of any of the old earth- works I have seen since Fort George, at Castine. The position is naturally very strong, far stronger than Bunker Hill, which cost so many lives to carry. On all sides except the east the hill is precipitous; here the ascent is gradual, and having surmounted it, an attacking force would find itself on an almost level area of sufficient extent to form two thousand men. In consequence of the knowledge that this was their weak point of defense, the Ameri- cans constructed a small redoubt, the re- mains of which may still be seen about three hundred yards distant from the main work. Groton was the seat of the Pequot power, the royal residence of Sassacus being situated on a commanding eminence called Fort Hill, four miles east of New London. This was his principal fortress, though there was another about eight miles distant from New London, near Mystic, which was the scene of the memorable encounter which all our historians from Cotton Mather to Dr. Palfrey have related with such minuteness. The conquest of the Pequots, with whom, man against man, no other of the red nations near their frontiers dared to contend, was heroic in the little band of Englishmen by whom it was effected. The reduction to a handful of outcasts of a nation that counted a thousand warriors was a stroke of fortune the English owed to the assistance of Uncas, a rebel against his lawful chieftain, Sassacus, and of Miantouimo, whose alliance had been secured by Poger Williams.^ Captain John Mason, who had served under Fairfiix in the Netherlands, is BENEDICT ARNOLD. ' Soon after the surrender a wagon loaded with M'ounded Americans was set in motion down the hill. In its descent it struck with great force against a tree, causing the instant death of sev- eral of its occupants. — "Gordon's Revolution," vol. iv., p. 179. ^ Captain Mason, with the Connecticut and Massachusetts forces, numbering in all only- ninety men, together with about four hundred Narragansets and Mohegans, attacked the I'equot fortress on the morning of May 2()th, 1G37. His Indian allies skulked in the rear. Mason's onset was a complete surprise; but he would not have succeeded had he not fired the fort, which created a panic among the enemy, and rendered them an easy prey to the English and friendly Indians surrounding it. Between six and seven hundred Pequots perished. 430 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. the ideal Puritan soldier. Before leading his men on to storm the Pequot stronghold, they knelt together in the moonlight, wliich shone brightly on that May morning, and commended themselves and their enterprise to God. Re- port says that the accompanying Narragansets and Mohegans were much as- tounded and troubled at the sight. Satisfied that he could not conquer the Pequots hand to hand with his little force, Mason himself applied a fire-brand to the wigwams. His own account of the Pequot war, reprinted by Prince in 1736, is the best and fullest narrative of its varying fortunes. STORMING OF THE INDIAN FORTRESS. Mason relates that he had but one pint of strong liquors in his army dur- ing its whole march. Like a prudent commander, he carried the bottle in his hand, and ingenuously says, when it was empty the very smelling of it would presently recover such as liad fainted away from the extremity of the heat. Among the special providences of the day he mentions that Lieutenant Bull had an arrow shot into a hard piece of cheese he carried, that probably saved his life; " which may verify the old saying," adds the narrator, that "a little armor would serve, if a man knew where to place it."* Fuller, in one of his sermons, has another and a similar proverb: "It is better to fight naked than with bad armor, for the rags of a bad corselet make a deeper wound, and worse to be healed, than the bullet itself" Mason ultimately settled in Nor- wich, and died there. ' The English in these early wars fonglit in armor, that is to say, a steel cap and corselet, with a back and breast piece, over buff coats, the common equipment everywhere of that day for a horse or foot soldier. NEW LONDON AND NORWICH. 431 SILAS DEANE. Silas Deane was a native of Groton. Of the tliree men to whom Congress intrusted its secret negotiations witli European powers, Franklin was the only one whose char- acter did not permanently sufier, although he did not escape the malignity and envy of Ar- thur Lee. The Virginian's enmity and jeal- ousy, aided by the influence of his brothers, were more successful in sullying the name and fame of Silas Deane. Yet Arthur Lee was a patriot and an honest man, whose public life was corroded by a morbid envy and distrust of his associates. A more disastrous appoint- ment than his could hardly have been made, as his temperament especially unfitted him for . ,. , a near approach to men who, with all the world's polish, were, m diplomatic phrase, able to cut an adversary's throat with a hair. John Quincy Adams, who may perhaps have inherited his father s dislike of Deane, once said, in the course of a conversation with some friends : ''A son of Silas Deane was one of my school-fellows.^ I never saw him no-ain until last autumn, when I recognized him on board a steamboat, and in- ti^duced him to Lafayette, who said, 'Do you and Deane agree? I said, ' Yes ' ' That's more than your fathers did before you,' replied the general. " Silas Deane," continued Mr. Adams, "was a man of fine talents, but, like General Arnold, he was not true to his country. After he was dismissed from the service of the United States he went to England, lived for a long time on Lord Sheflield's patronage, and wrote a book which did more to widen the breach between England and America, and produce unpleasant feelings between the two countries, than any work that had been pub- lished' Finally he determined to return to America, but, in a fit of remorse and d"espair, committed suicide before the vessel left the Thames. ^ His char- acter and fate affected those of his son, who has lived in obscurity. It is possible that Silas Deane's patriotism was not proof against the ing^^. - itude he had experienced, and that he became soured and ^^>«f .^^^^^^ 5^^^;', is scarcely iust to his memory to call him traitor, or compare him with sucli an "noble character as Arnold. Deane was the friend of Beaumarchais ; he was dso his confidant. He was the means of securing the services of Lafay- ette for America. There is little doubt that he exceeded his powers as com- missioner, involving Congress in embarrassments, of which his recall was the To ution. The malevolence of Lee and the crookedness of French diplomacy 1 Mr. John Quincy Adams accompan Paris. ^ Miss E. S. Qnincy's " Memoir. anied his father to France, and was phiced at school near 432 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. did what was wanting to consign liim to obscurity and poverty. The con- troversy over Deane's case produced a laaraphlet from Thomas Paine, and caused John Jay to take the place resigned by Mr. Laurens as president of Congress. Deane and Beaumarchais were the scape-goats of the French alli- ance." John Ledyard was another monument of Groton. His first essay as a traveler exhibits his courage and resource. He entered Dartmouth as a divin- ity student ; but poverty obliging him to withdraw from the college, and not having a shilling in his pocket, he made a canoe fifty feet long, with which he floated down the river one hundred and forty miles to Hartford. He then em- barked for England as a common sailor, and while there, under the impulse of his passion for travel, enlisted with Captain Cook as a corporal of marines. He witnessed the tragical death of his captain. In 1771, after eight years' absence, Ledyard revisited his native country. His mother Avas then keep- ing a boarding-house at Southhold. Her son took lodgings with her without being recognized, as had once happened to Franklin in similar circumstances. Ledyard's subsequent exploits in Europe, Asia, and Africa bear the im- press of a daring and adventurous spirit. At last he offered himself for the more perilous enterprise of penetrating into the unknown regions of Central Africa. A letter from Sir Joseph Banks introduced him to the projectors of the expedition. "Before I had learned," says the gentleman to whom Sir Joseph's letter was addressed, "the name and business of my visitor, I was struck with the manliness of his person, the breadth of his chest, the open- ness of his countenance, and the inquietude of his eye. Spreading the map of Africa before him, and tracing a line from Caii-o to Sennaar, and thence westward in the latitude and supposed direction of the Niger, I told him that Avas the route by which I was anxious that Africa might, if possible, be ex- ])lored. He said he should consider himself singularly fortunate to be in- trusted with the adventure. I asked him when he would set out. His an- swer was, ' To-morrow morning.' '"^ New' London's annals aftbrd a passing glimpse of two men who, though enemies, were worthy of each other. During the Avar Avith England of 1812, Decatur, Avith the United States, Macedonian, and Hornet, Avas blockaded in NeAV London by Sir T. M, Hardy Avith a squadron of superior force. The presence of the British fleet AA'as a constant menace to the inhabitants, dis- quieted as they also Avere by the recollections of Arnold's descent. In vain Decatur tried to escape the iron grip of his adversary. Hardy's vigilance * In 1835, when President Jackson demanded twenty-five millions of France on account of French spoliations, the claim of Beaninarcliais was allowed, after deducting a million livres which had been advanced by Vergennes. Deane's heirs did not obtain an adjustment of his claims bj Congress until 1842. ^ Ledyard proceeded no farther than Cairo, where he died, in i788, of a bilious fever. NEW LONDON AND NORWICH. 433 never relaxed, and the American vessels remained as uselessly idle to the end- of the war, as if laid up in ordinary. Once Decatur had prepared to slip away unperceived to sea, but signals made to the hostile fleet from the shore compelled him to abandon the attempt. He then proposed to Hardy a duel be- tween his own and an equal force of British ships, which, though he did not absolutely decline the challenge,* it is pretty evident Sir Thomas never meant should happen. Decatur was brave, fearless, and chivalric. He was the handsomest offi- cer in the navy. Coleridge, who knew him well at Malta, always spoke of him in the highest terms. Our history does not afford a more impressive example of a useful life uselessly thrown away. Of his duel with Barron the following is probably a correct account of the closing scene : The combatants ap- proached within sixteen feet of each other, because one was near-sighted, and the rule was that both should take deliberate aim before the word Avas given. They both fired, and fell with their beads not ten feet apart. Each believed himself mortally hurt. Before their removal from the ground they were rec- onciled, and blessed each other, declaring there was nothing between them. All that was necessary to have prevented the meeting was a personal expla- nation. Sir T. Hardy is well known as the captain of Nelson's famous flag-ship, the Victory, and as having received these last utterances of the dying hero: "An- chor, Hardy, anchor!" When the captain replied, "I suppose, my lord, Ad- miral Collingwood will now take upon himself the direction of affairs ?" " Not while I live, I hope, Hardy !" cried the dying chief, endeavormg ineffectually to raise himself from the bed, " No," he added, " do you anchor. Hardy." " Shall we make the signal, sir?" " Yes," replied his lordship, "for if I live, I'll anchor. Take care of my dear Lady Hamilton, Hardy ; take care of poor Lady Hamilton. Kiss me, Hardy.'"* STEPUEN DECATUR. ' Decatur offered to match the United States and Macedonian with the Endijmion and Statira. Sir Thomas declined the proposal as made, but consented to a meeting between the Statira and Macedonian alone. ' Nelson commended almost with his latest breath Lady Hamilton and his daughter as a legacy to his country. Lady Hamilton, however, died in exile, sickness, and actual want at Calais, France, in 1815. 28 434 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. With whatever local preferences the traveler may have come, he will think the approach to Norwich charming. Through banks high and green, crested with groves, or decked with white villages, the river slips quietly away to min- gle in the noisy world of waters beyond. In deeper shadows of the hills the pictures along the banks are reproduced with marvelous fidelity of form and coloring ; and even the blue of the sky and white drifting clouds are mirrored there. All terrestrial things, however, appear, as in the camera, inverted — roofs or steeples pointing downward, men or animals walking with feet up- wai'd, along the banks, like flies on a ceiling. When autumn tints are on, the effects seen in the water are heightened by the confused masses of sumptuous foliage hung like garlands alono: the shores. KUSTIC BKIDGE, NOBWICH. Norwich is ranged about a hill overlooking the Thames. It is on a point of rock-land infolded by two streams, the Yantic and Shetucket, that come tumbling and hurrying down from the higher northern ranges to meet and kiss each other in the Thames. Rising, terrace above terrace, the appearance of Norwich, as viewed from the river, is more striking in its ensemble than by reason of particular features. The water-side is the familiar dull red, above which glancing roofs and steeples among trees are seen retreating up the as- cent. By night a ridged and chimneyed blackness bestrewed with lights re- Avards the curious gazer from the deck of a Sound steamboat. I admired in Norwich the broad avenues, the wealth of old ti*ees, the luxurious spaciousness of the private grounds. Washington Street is one of the finest I have walked in. There is breathing-room everywhere, town and country seeming to meet NEW LONDON AND NORWICH. 435 and clasp hands, each giving to the other of the best it had to offer. I do not mean that Norwich is countrified ; but its mid-city is so easily escaped as to do away with the feeling of imprisonment in a widerness of brick, stone, and plate-glass. The suburban homes of Norwich have an air of substantial com- fort and delicious seclusion. In brief, wherever one has made up his mind to be buried, he would like to live in Norwich. There are not a few picturesque objects about Norwich, especially by the shores of the Yantic, which, since being robbed of the falls, once its pride and glory, has become a prosaic mill-stream.' The water is of the blackness of Acheron, streaked Avith amber where it falls over rocks, and of a rusty brown in shallows, as if partaking of the col- or of bits of decayed wood or dead leaves which one sec.^ at the bottom. The stream, after having j = been vexed by dams and tossed about by mill-wheels, bounds joyously, and j with some touch of savage fi-eedom, to t :■. strike hands with the Shetucket. o^j, jul^ nokwich. The practical reader should be told that tiie city of Norwich is the outgrowth and was of yore the landing of Norwich town, two miles above it. The city was then known as Chelsea and Norwich Landing, The Mohegans were lawful owners of the soil. Subse- quent to the Pequot war hostilities broke out between Uncas, chief of the Mohegans, and Miantonimo, the Narraganset sachem. The Narragansets in- vaded the territory of the Mohegans, and a battle occurred on the Great Plains, near Greenville, a mile and a half below Norwich. The Narragansets suffered defeat, and their chief became a prisoner. He was delivered by Un- cas to the English, w^ho condemned him to death, and devolved upon Uncas the execution of the sentence. The captive chief was led to the spot where ' The falls were very beautiful, and have been ^lebrated by TrunibuU's pencil and IMrs. Sigour- ney's verse. There still remain some curious cavities, worn in the rock by the prolonged rotary motion of loose stones. Lydia Huntley Sigourney, the most celebrated writer in prose or poetry of her day in New England, was a native of Norwich. afyO 436 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. he had been made prisoner, and, while stallcing with Indian stoicism in the midst of his enemies, was killed by one blow from a tomahawk at the signal of Uncas. Miantonirao was buried where he fell, and from him the spot takes its name of Sachem's Plain/ War continued between the Narragansets and Mohegans, the former, led by a brother of Miantonimo, being again the assailants. Uncas was at length compelled to throw himself within his strong fortress, where he was closely besieged, and in danger of being overpowered. He found means to send in- telligence to Saybrook, where Captain Mason commanded, that his supply of food was exhausted. Mason immediately sent Thomas Leffingwell with a boat-load of provision, which enabled Uncas to hold out until his enemy with- UNKos, drew. For this act, which he performed single-handed, Lef- fingwell received from Uncas the greater part of Norwich ; and in 1659, by a formal deed, signed by Uncas and his two sons, Owaneko and Attawanhood, he, with Mason, Rev. James Fitch, and others, became proprietors of the whole of Nor- wich." I did not omit a visit to the ground where the "buried his mark. majcsty " of Mohegan is lying. It is on the bank of the Yan- "!:t^^^^^ tic, in a secluded though populous neighborhood. A granite "^-jT'Tt'^^ obelisk, with the name of Uncas in relief at its base, erected his mark. \)j citizeus of Norwich, stands within the inclosure. The SIGNATURES or UN- fouiielation was laid by President Jackson in 1833. Around CAS AND HIS SONS. •' are clustered a few mossy stones chiseled by English hands, with the brief record of the hereditary chieftains of a once powerful race.^ In its native state the spot must have been singularly romantic and well chosen. A wooded height overhangs the river in full view of the falls, where their tur- bulence subsides into a placid onward flow, and where the chiefs, ere their de- ' Before the battle with the Narragansets, Uncas is said to have challenged Miantonimo to single combat, promising for himself and his nation to abide the result, Miantonimo refused. This chief, in his flight from the field, was overtaken by Mohegan warriors, who impeded him until Uncas could come up. When Uncas laid his hand on Miantonimo's shoulder, the latter sat down in token of submission, maintaining a sullen silence. Uncas is said to have eaten a piece of his flesh. ^ The proprietors numbered thirty-five. Uncas received about seventy pounds for nine square miles. The settlement of Norwich is considered to have begun in 16G0, when Rev. James Fitch removed from Saybrook to Norwich (town). ' The following inscriptions are from the royal burial-ground of the Mohegans : "Here lies y*^ body of Fompi Uncas, son of Benjamin and Ann Uncas, and of y^ royal blood, who died May y« first, 1740, in y^ 21st year of his age." "Here lies Sam Uncas, the 2d and beloved son of his father, John Uncas, who was the grand- son of Uncas, grand sachem of Mohegan, the darling of his mother, being daughter of said Uncas, grand sachem. He died July 31st, 1741, in the 28th year of his age." "In memory of Elizabeth Joquib, the daughter of Mahomet, great-grandchild to y" first Un- cas, great sachem of Mohegan, who died July y^ 5th, 1750, aged 33 years." NEW LONDON AND NORWICH. 437 UNCAS'S MONUMENT. parture for the bappy hunting-grounds, might look their last on the villages of their people. It was the Indian custom to bury by the margin of river, lake, or ocean. Here, doubt- less, repose the bones of many grim warriors, seated in royal state, with their weapons and a pot of suc- cotash beside them. T^e last interment here was of Ezekiel Mazeon, a descendant of Uncas, in 1826. The feeble remnant of the Mohegans followed him to the grave. ^ Mr. Sparks remarks that the history of the In- dians, like that of the Carthaginians, has been writ- ten by their enemies. As the faithful, unwavering ally of the English, Uncas has received the enco- miums of their historians. His statesmanship has been justified by time and history. By alliance with the English he preserved his people for many generations after the more numerous and powerful Pequots, Narragansets, and Wampanoags had ceased to exist. In 1638 he came with his present of wampum to Boston, and having convinced the English of his loyalty, thus addressed them : "This heart" (laying his hand upon his breast) "is not mine, but yours. Command me any difficult service, and I will do it. I have no men, but they are all yours. I will never be- lieve any Indian against the English any more." It is this invincible fidel- ity, approved by important services, that should make his name and char- acter respected by every descendant of the fathers of Kew England. About midway of the pleasant ave- nue that unites old Norwich with new is the birthplace of Benedict Arnold.* ARNOLD'S BIRTHPLACE. ' The hereditary chieftainship was extinct as long ago as the beginning of the century. The Mohegans occupied a strip of land containing two thousand seven hundred acres, lying on the Thames between Norwich and New London, above the mouth of Stony Brook, and between the river and Montville. In 1G33 the Indian population of Connecticut was com])uted at eight persons to the square mile ; tlie earliest enumeration of tlie IMohegans made tlieir number one thousand six hundred and sixty-three souls; in 1797 only four luindred remained. By 182i'> the nation was reduced to a score or two, a portion having emigrated to Stockbridge, Massachusetts. The Mohe- gan reserve was divided in 1790 among the remaining families of the nation. The Mohegans were probably a distinct nation, though Uncas was a vassal of the Pequots. " On the Colchester road, or Town Street, near the junction of a street leading toward the Falls. The estate is now locally known as the Ripley Place. 438 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. Somewhat farther on, and when within half a mile of the town, you also see at the right the homely little building which was the apothecary's in which Arnold worked as a boy with pestle and mortar to the acceptance of his master, Dr. Lathrop, who lived in the adjoining- mansion. One can bet- ter imagine Arnold deal- ing out musket - bullets than pills, and mixing- brimstone with saltpetre rather than harmless drugs. As a boy he was bold, high-spirited, and cruel. In this neighborhood I saw a group of elms unmatched for beauty in New England. One of them is a king among trees. They are on a grassy slope, before an inviting mansion, and are in the fall glory of maturity. It was a feast to stand under their branching arms, and be fanned and soothed by the play of the breeze among their green tresses, that fell in fountains of rustling foliage from their crowned heads. A benison on those old trees ! May they never fall into the clutches of that class who have a real and active hatred of every thing beautiful, or that appeals to more than their habitual perception is able to discover ! I made a brief visit at the man- sion built by General JedediahJIun- tington before he removed to New London after the Old War.* In the dining-room was a full- length of General Eben Huntington, painted by Trumbull at the age of eighteen. On seeing it some years afterward, Trumbull took out his general huntington's house. ELM-TKEtS Bl rilK \\A\feIDL. * The general was appointed collector of New London by Washington. His first wife was a daughter of Governor Trumbull. NEW LONDON AND NORWICH. 439 ^ penknife and said to his liost and friend, " Eb, let me put my knife through this." Another portrait by the same hand, representing the general at the sieo-e of Yorktown, is in a far different manner. The three daughters of Gen- eral Huntington, then living in the old family mansion, in referring to the warm friendship between their father and the painter, mentioned that the first and last portraits painted by Colonel Trumbull were of members of their family. Near General Huntington's, where many of the choicest spirits of the Revolution have been en- tertained, is the handsome mansion of Governor Hun- tington, a remote connec- tion of his military neigh- bor. Without the advan- tages of a liberal educa- tion, he became a member of the old Congress, and its president, chief -justice, and governor of Connecti- cut. President D wight, who knew him well, extols his character and abilities warmly and highly. I had frequent oppoi'- tunities of seeing, in my rambles about the environs of New London and Norwich, the beautiful dwarf flowering laurel {Kalmia augustifolia) that is almost unknown farther north. In the woods, where it was growing in wild luxuriance, it appeared like a gigantic azelia, ablaze with fragrant bloom of white and pink. It used to be said that honey collected by the bee from this flower was poisonous. The broad-leaved laurel, or calico-tree {Kalmia lati- folia) was believed to be even more injurious, instances being mentioned where death had occurred from eating the flesh of pheasants that had fed on its leaves. Norwich town represents the kernel from which the city has sprung, and retains also no little of the savor incident to a population that has held in- novations at arms-length. It has quiet, freshness, and a certain rural comeli- ness. A broad green, or common, planted with trees, is skirted by houses, many of them a century or more old, among which I thought I now and then detected the no longer familiar well-sweep, with the "old oaken bucket^ standing by the curb. On one side of the common the old court-house is stjill sGGn, Take the path beside the meeting-house, ascending the overhanging rocks by some natural steps, and you will be richly repaid for the trifling exertion. MANSION OF Gt)VEKNOR UL'NTINGTOX. 440 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. The view embraces a charming little valley watered by the Yantic, which here flows through rich meadow-lands and productive farms. Encompassing the settlement is another elevated range of the rocky hills common to this region, making a sort of amphi- theatre in which the town is natural- ly placed. The old church of Norwich town formerly stood in the hollow between two high hills above its present site. The pound, now its next neighbor, is still a lawful inclosure in most of the New England States. Not many 5^ears ago, I knew of a town in Mas- sachusetts that was presented by a grand jury for not having one. I visited the old grave-yard, remarka- ble for its near return to a state of nature. Many stones had fallen, and sometimes two were kept upright by leaning one against the other. Weeds, brambles, and vines impeded my foot- steps or concealed the grave-stones. I must often repeat the story of the shameful neglect which involves most of our older cemeteries. One is not quite sure, in leaving them, that he does not carry away on his feet the dust of former generations. Some of the stones are the most curious in form and design I have met with. The family tombs of Governor and General Hun- tington are here. CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH. PETER STUTVESANT. CHAPTER XXVIIL SAYBKOOK. " Says Tweed to Till, 'What gars ye rin sae still?' Says Till to Tweed, ' Thougli ye rin wi' speed. An' I rin slaw. For ae man that ye droon, I droon twa.' "—Old Song. RATHER more than a liundred miles from New York the railway crosses the Connecticut River, on one of those bridges that at a little distance resemble spiders' webs hung between the shores. From here one n^iy ook down quite to the river's mouth, where it enters the Sound; and if it be a warm summer's day, the bluish-gray streak of land across it may be seen. The Connecticut is the only river of importance emptying upon the New En- o-land coast that has not an island lodged in its throat. 442 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. It was on one of those parched days of midsummer, when the veiy air is quivering, and every green thing droops and shrivels under a vertical sun, that I first alighted at the station at Say brook. The listless, fagged, and jaded air of city swells lounging about the platform, the flushed faces of blooming girls and watchful dowagers, betokened the general prostration of weary humanity, who yearned for the musical plash of sea-waves as the with- ering leaves and dusty grass longed for rain. How feminine New England exaggerates, to be sure ! A group of three young ladies exchange their views upon the sultriness of the day : one ob- serves, " What a dreadful hot day!" a second declares it "horrid" (torrid, perhaps she meant to say) ; and the last pronounces it " perfectly frightful," emphasizing the opinion by opening her umbrella with a sharp snap. What they would have said to an earthquake, a conflagration, or a shipwreck, is left to bewildering conjecture. In a certain unquiet portion of the American Union, the term Connecticut Yankee is expressive of concentrated dislike for shrewd bargaining, a nasal twang of speech, and a supposed desire to overreach one's neighbor. How often have I heard in the South the expression, "A mean Yankee ;" as if, for- sooth, meanness were sectional ! Here in New England a Connecticut Yankee is spoken of as a cunning blade or sharp fellow; as an Englishman would say, " He's Yorkshire ;" or an Italian, " E Spoletino." The day of wooden nutmegs is past and gone, and Connecticut is more fjimiliarly known as the "Land of Steady Habits." The whole State is a hive. Every smoky town you see is a busy work-shop. The problem of the Con- necticut man is how to do the most work in the shortest time, whether by means of a sewing-machine, a Colt, or a mitrailleuse. If I should object to any thing in him, it would be the hurry and worry, the drive, which impels liim through life — and in this I do not imagine he differs from the average American man of business — until, like one of his own engines that is always worked under a full pressure of steam, he stops running at last. That is why -we see so many old men of thirty, and so many premature gray hairs in New England. But what I chiefly lament is the disappearance of the Yankee — not the conventional Yankee of the theatre, for he had never an existence elsewhere; but the hearty yet suspicious, "cute" though green, drawling, whittling, un- adulterated Yankee, with his broad humor, delicious patois, and large-hearted patriotism. His very mother-tongue is forgotten. Not once during these rambles have I heard his old familiar "I swaow," or "Git aout," or "Dew tell.'" Railway and telegrajjh, factory and work-shop, penetrating into the ' The term "Brother Jonathan" originated with Washington, who applied it to Governor Jon- athan Trumbull, of Connecticut. When any important matter was in agitation the general would say, " We must consult Brother Jonathan." SAYBROOK. 443 most secluded hamlets, have rubbed off all the crust of ah originality so pro- nounced as to have become the type, aud often the caricature too, of Amer- ican nationality the world ovei'. One peculiarity I have noticed is that of calling spinsters, of whatever age, " o-irls." I knew two elderly maiden ladies, each verging on three-score, who were universally spoken of as the " Young girls," their names, I should perhaps explain, being Young. Once, when in quest of lodgings in a strange place, I was directed to apply to the two Brown girls, whose united ages, as I should judge, could not be less than a century and a quarter. But one is not to judge of New England girls by this sample. Another practice which prevails in some villages is that of designating father and son, where both have a common Christian-name, as "Big Tom" and "Little Tom;" and brother and sister as "Bub" and "Sis." One can hardly maintain a serious countenance to hear a stalwart fellow of six feet alluded to as " Little " Tom, or Joe, or Bill, or a full-grown man or woman as " Bub " or " Sis." On the coast, nicknames are current principally among the sea-faring element ;" Guinea Bill" or "Portugee Jack," presupposes the own- er to have made a voyage to either of those distant lands. The Italians count the whole twenty-four hours, beginning at half an hour after sunset. By this method of computation I reckoned on arriving at Say- brook Point at exactly twenty-two o'clock. I walked through the village leisurely observant of its outward aspect, which was that of undisturbed tran- quillity. Modern life had been so long in reaching it, that it had been willing to accommodate itself to the old houses, and so far to the old life of the place. The toilets here, as elsewhere, encroached in many instances upon those ot the last century, and were wonderfully like the portraits one sees of the time. Now, let us have the old manners back again. One of the pleasantest old houses in Saybrook is the Hart mansion, which stands in the main street of the village, heavily draped by the foliage of three elm-trees of great size and beauty. It was a favorite retreat of that gallant sailor, Isaac Hull, who lost his heart there.' Like Nelson, he was the idol of his sailors, for he was as humane as he was brave. He seldom ordered one of his old sea-dogs to be flogged, but would call a culprit before him, and after scoldino- him soundly with affected roughness of tone and manner, would tell him to return to his duty. The Old Ironsides was loved with a love almost like that which man bears to woman. Ladies would have kissed the hem of her sails; men scraped the barnacles from her bottom, and earned them home in their pockets. I have seen no end of canes, picture-frames, and ' General William Hart, an old soldier of the Revolution, was a wealthy and highly esteemed citizen of Saybrook. In 1795, with Oliver Phelps and others, he purchased the tract in Oh,o called the Western Reserve. The Commodores Hull, uncle and nephew, married sisters be ongmg to this family. Commodore Andrew Hull Foote was also a nephew of Commodore Isaac Hull, whose widow was still living when I visited Saybrook in 1874. 444 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. ISAAC UULL. Other souvenirs of this famous ship treasured by fortunate possessors; and one of the old merchants of Boston had his street door made of her oak. Saybrook is languid. It is dispersed along one broad and handsome street, completely can- opied by an arch of foliage. You seem, when at the entrance, to be looking through a green tunnel. In this street there is no noise and but little movement. The few shops were without custom. Af- ter the spasm of activity caused by the arrival of the train — when it seemed for the moment to rub its eyes and brisk up a little, carriages and pedestrians having mysteriously disappeared some- where — the old town dozed again. The Connecticut is here tame and uninteresting, with near shores of salt - marsh flatness. Yellow sand-bars, green hummocks, or jutting points skirted with pine- groves, inclose the stream, which is broad, placid, and shallow. There are no iron headlands, or dangerous reefs. Nature seems quite in harmony with the general quietude and restfulness. A few years ago there existed at the Point the remains of a colonial for- tress, with much history clustering around it. It was raised in the very in- fancy of English settlement at the mouth of the Connecticut ; and when the Revolution came, the old dismounted cannon, that had perhaps done duty with Howard or Blake, were again placed on the ramparts. The railway peo- ple have reduced the hill on which it stood to a flat and dreary gravel waste.' This is walking into antiquity with a vengeance ! It is perhaps fortunate that the Coliseum, Temple Bar, and St. Denis are not where they would be valued for the cubic yards of waste material they might afford. The Dutch anticipated the English in the settlement on Connecticut River. The Hollanders at Fort Amsterdam, and the then rival colonies of Plymouth and Massachusetts Bay, were each desirous of obtaining a foothold which each felt too weak to undertake alone. The country had been subjugated by the Pequots, whose territory neither colony might invade without bringing the whole nation upon them. ^ The' eminence on -which the fort stood, also called Tomb Hill, jutted into the river, being united to the shore by a beach, and bordered by salt-marshes. It was steep and unassailable from any near vantage-ground. In 1G47 the first fort was accidentally destroyed by fire. SAYBKOOK. 445 The Dutch were also first to visit the river, and to inform the Pilgrims of its beauty and advantages for traffic. In 1633, Massachusetts having reject- ed overtures for a joint occupation, Plymouth determined to establish a trad- inc^-post upon the river without her aid. Apprised of this intention, the Dutch dispatched an expedition, which disembarked where Hartford now is. A house was hastily erected, and ordnance mounted, with which the Holland- ers gave notice that they meant to keep out intruders. The Plymouth expedition, under command of William Holmes, ascended the river, and, notwithstanding an attempt to stop them, passed by the Dutcli fort. They landed at Nattawanute, afterward Windsor, and, having made themselves secure, sent their vessel home. Word was sent to Fort Amster- dam of the invasion. A company of seventy dispatched to the scene ad- vanced " brimful of wrath and cabbage," with drums beating and colors fly- ing, against the English fort. Seeing the Pilgrims were in nowise discon- certed" the Dutch captain ordered a halt ; a parley took place, and, havmg thus vindicated the national honor, Gualtier Twilley's men withdrew.' The attempts of Plymouth to establish tributary plantations, with trad- ing-posts, at the extreme eastern and western limits of New England, were equally disastrous. Massachusetts stood quietly by, and saw her rival dis- possessed at Penobscot, but at Windsor the Plymouth people soon found themselves hemmed in between settlements made by emigrants from the bay. As a quarrel would perhaps have been alike fatal to both, Plymouth gave way to her more powerful neighbor. The English settlement of Connecticut is usually assigned to the year 1635 the jeav of beginnings at Hartford, Wethersfield, and Saybrook. In the autumn the younger Winthrop sent a few men to take possession and fortify at the mouth of the Connecticut, as agent of Lords Say, Brook, and their as- sociate owners of the patent.^ This expedition forestalled by a few days onlv a new attempt to obtain possession by the Dutch, who, finding the En- glish already landed and having cannon mounted, abandoned their design. " Throu-h the agency of the celebrated Hugh Peters, the patentees engaged and sent to New England, Lion Gardiner, a military engineer who had served in the Low Countries. He arrived at Boston in November, 1635 and pro- ceeded to the fort at the mouth of the Connecticut. He was followed by Georcre Fenwick, sent over by Lord Say to be resident agent of the English > In the British State Paper Office is a translation of part of a letter, dated ^^^^^l^^f^ in 1G33 from Gualtier Twillev to the governor of Massachusetts Bay, concemuig the nght o the Du ch '; the river. The governor says that he has taken possession of it in the name of he Mate Wral and set up a hoL on the north side, .ith intent to plant, "e d^sn.^^^^^^^^^ defer his claims until their superior magistrates are agreed. The word tHulson] is placed after " river " in the calendars, but the date and other given facts are probably allusions trf the Con- necticut attempt "ue'IZ Gibbo,,. Scgcaa, WiUar., »„. scnc carpenters. -" Lion G„d,„e,-s Account." 446 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. proprietors. Fenwick, accompanied by Peters, reached the fort in the spring. The plantation was called Saybrook, as a compliment to the two principal personages interested in its founding. Saybrook has perhaps acquired a certain importance in the eyes of histor- ical writers to which no other spot of New England's soil can pretend. There is little room to doubt that Lord Say, and perhaps some of his associates, strongly entertained the idea of removing thither.^ A more debatable asser- tion, which is, however, well fortified with authorities, represents Oliver Crom- well, John Hampden, Pym, and Sir Arthur Haselrig as having been prevented from embarking only by an express order from the king : some, indeed, assert that they actually embarked.^ In the old burial-place of Saybrook Point is the most curious sepulchral memorial in New England. I can compare it with nothing but a Druid monument, it is so massy, so roughly shaped, and so peculiar in form. Un- til a few years ago, it stood within a field south-v«est of the fort, over the dust of George Fenwick's wife, a woman of gentle blood. The "im- provements " made by the railway in this vicinity caused the removal of the monument to its present position, When the remains of Lady Fenwick were disinterred, the skeleton was found to be nearly entire. Beneath the skull was lying a heavy braid of auburn hair, which was parceled out among the villagers. My informant of- fered to show me the tress that had fallen to his share, I acknowledge it, I am the fool of association ; and when I see the spade thrust among graves, I wince a little. I would have Shakspeare's appeal and ^ malediction inscribed over the entrance to every old grave-yard in New En- ' See the correspondence in Hutchinson's "History of Massachusetts," appendix, vol. i., be- tween John Cotton and Lord Say. ^ There is nothing improbable in the story, either from the rank or political importance of the personages mentioned ; the civil commotions in England rather give it a groundwork of probabil- ity. The authorities in support of the emigration are Dr. George Bates, the physician of Crom- well, in his '■^Elenchus Mahmm Nuperorum in AngJia," William Lilly's "Life and Times" (Lon- don, 1822), Sir William Dugdale's "Troubles in England," Mather's "Magnalia," Oldmixon's "British Empire in America," Neal's "History of New England," and Hutchinson's "History of Massachusetts." Hume, Chalmers, Grahame, Hallam, Russell, Macaulay, and others repeat the story with various modifications ; Aiken, Forster, Bancroft, Young, and others deny or doubt it. The arguments pro and con may be consulted in the " New England Historical and Genealogical Register for 1866." A MOSS-GROWN MEMORIAL. SAYBROOK. 447 o-land. But, after all, what is Shakspeave's malediction to these tvouble- Tombs who anticipate the llesuvrection, and give the burial service the lie. Our bones ache at the thouglit of being tossed about on a laborer's shovel. Rather come cremation than mere tenure at will at the tender mercies of these levelers. When we have been " put to bed with a shovel," and have pulled our green coverlet over us, let us have the peace that passeth all un- derstanding. Not much is known of Lady Anne Boteler, or Butler, the wife of George Fenwick. It is surmised that she died in childbed. The inscription that her monument undoubtedly bore has been so long obliterated that no record re- mains of it. A newer one, with the simple name and date, " Lady Fenwick, died 1648," has been cut in the perishable sandstone. Some one has also caused the cross to be chiseled there.' Considering the peculiar aversion with which the Puritans regarded the cross, the appearance of one on the tombstone of Lady Fenwick is suggestive of the famous prohibition of the cemetery of Saint Medard : "De par le roi, defense a Dieu De faire miracle en ce lieu." Dr Dwio-ht states, as of report, that Fenwick, before his return to En- gland made'provision for having his wife's tomb kept in repair. The sale ot the title of Lords Say and Brook by him, in 1644, to Connecticut, is consul ered evidence as well of the existence of the design of removal alluded to as of its abandonment. After the death of Lady Fenwick her husband returned to En-land, and is mentioned as one of the regicide-judges. He subsequently appears with the title of "colonel," and is believed to be the same person ^ who besieged Hume Castle, in 1650, for Cromwell. On being summoned, the governor sent his defiance in verse : "I, William of the Wastle, Am now in my Castle : And aw the dogs in the town Shanna gar me gang down."^ The English at Saybrook Poin ^otected the land approach with a pali- t Lechford, in his " Plain Dealing," says, " There are five or six townes and Churches upon the ^ Connecticut where are worthy master Hooker, master Warham, ^-^J^^^^^ divers others, and master Fenwike, with the Lady Boteler, at the nvers mouth ma ^ e h .e and well fortified, and one master Higgison, a young man, then- chaplam The.e llantat on iaverPafent ; the Lady was lately admitted of Master Hooker's Church, and thereupon her cluld ^"^SwS ''played upon him"a little"with the great guns " winch did gar him gang down more fool than he went up.-C.u.v.K. Hutchinson places Ins death m ^^^l' f^^^^^^^^ tenant-colonel Fenwick killed in one of the battles between Conde and Tu.enn n Flande.s n 1658. The action- occurred before Dunkirk. Fenwick's last request of Lockh.ut, the English commander, was to be buried in Dunkirk.-TnuRLOE, vol. i., p.loG. 448 THE NEW ENGLAND COAST, sade drawn across the narrow isthmus, which very high tides overflowed and isolated from the main-land. Their corn-field was two miles distant from the fort, and skulking Pequots were always on the alert to waylay and murder them. Some of the Bay magistrates having spoken contemptuously of Indian arrows, Gardiner^ sent them the rib of a man in which one, after passing through the body, had buried itself so that it could not be withdrawn. Gardiner's manner of dealing with Indians was peculiar. When the ex- pedition against the Pequots was at Saybrook Fort, distrusting Mohegan faith, he resolved to make a trial of it. He therefore called Uncas before him, and said, " You say you will help Major Mason, but I will first see it ; there- fore send you now twenty men to the Bass River, for there Avent yesternight six Indians in a canoe thither ; fetch them now, dead or alive, and then you shall go with Major Mason, else not." So Uncas sent his men, who killed four and captured one, the sixth making his escape. The old burial-ground of Saybrook is neat and well kept. Lady Fen- wick's monument is just within the entrance, concealed by a clump of fir- trees. Not a quarter of the graves have stones, and that part of the ground occupied by the ancients of the village is so mounded and overcrowded that you may not avoid walking upon them. In another spot head-stones jutted above the turf at every variety of angle, and several monuments had cavities, showing where they had been robbed of leaden coats of arms — to run into bullets, perhaps. All are of ample dimensions, and on older ones creeping mosses conceal the inscriptions. The variety of color presented by slate, sandstone, or marble upon green is not unpleasing to the eye, yet those reckonings scored upon slate shall endure longest. In the Hart inclosure repose the ashes of the once beautiful Jeannette M. M. Hart, whose slab bears the symbol of her faith. She, the fairest of all the sisters, renounced the world and, embracing the Roman faith, became a nun. Her remains were brought home from Rome, and laid to rest with the service of the Church of England. In a little separate inclosure, whispered to have been consecrated by the rite of Rome, another sister is lying. When Com- modore Hull cruised in the old frigate United States, one of these beautiful girls was on board his ship. She Avas seen by Bolivar, who fell desperately in love with her at a ball, and became so attentive that the American ofiicers believed they Avere betrothed.^ Saybrook Avas also the original site of Yale College, fifteen commence- ' Lion Gardiner became the owner of the fertile island bearing his name at the east end of Long Island. It is seven miles long and a mile broad, with excellent soil. Some time ago its peculiar beauty and salubrity caused it to be called the Isle of Wight. The island, I believe, still remains in the possession of the Gardiner family. For many years it descended regularly from father to son by entail. The Indian name was Munshongonuc, or "the place of Indian graves." ^ One sister married Commodore Hull, as related ; another married Hon. Heman Allen, minis- ter to Chili ; and a third, Rev. Dr. Jarvis, of St. Paul's, Boston. SAYBKOOK. 449 ments having occurred here. The building, wliich was of a single story, stood about midway between fort and palisade. Its removal, in 1718, to New Haven occasioned great excitement, and the library had to be carried away under the protection of a guard. The Saybrook Platform, so called, was adopted here after the commencement of 1*708. Harvard and Yale were in intancy probably not different from tliose Scotch universities wliich Dr. John- son said were like a besieged town, where every man had a mouthful, but no man a bellyful. The shores about Saybrook offer little that is noteworthy. On the beach the tide softly laps the incline of sand, that looks like a slab of red freestone, tine-grained and hard, A dry spot flashing beneath your tread, or perhaps a sea-bird circling above your head, attends your loiterings. Look now off upon the Sound, where the golden sunset is flowing over it, gilding the waves, the distant shores, and the sails of passing vessels with beams that in dying are transfused into celestial fires. Idle boats are rocked and caressed on this golden sea. Yonder distant gleam is a light-house, kin- dled with heavenly flame. The world is transfigured, that Ave may believe in Paradise. Soon yellow flushes into pale crimson, blending with a sapphire sky. Standing on the strand, we are transformed, and seem to quaff of the elixir of life. Now the violet twilight deepens into sombre shadows. A • spark appears in the farther sea. Soon others shine out like glow-worms in your path; while twinkling stars, seen for a moment, disappear, as if they, too, i-evolved for some more distant shore. The Sound becomes a vague and heav- ing blackness. And now, Avith gentle murmurings, the rising tide eftaces our wayward foot-prints, 29 INDEX. Acadia, New England, included in, 18 ; means taken to people, 25; expatriation of the French, 303. Adams, John, resists the pretensions of tlie French Directory, 378, 392. Agamenticus, called Snadoun Hill, 21 ; landfall of early navigators, 120 ; ascent of, 123 ; mount- ains seen from, 125. Agassiz, Louis, at Mount Desert, 48 ; anecdotes of, and personal appearance, 49. Alden, John, claimed to have first landed on Plymouth Rock, 290 ; tradition of his court- ship, 300, 301. Alexander, William (Earl of Sterling), islands in his patent, 339. Alfonse, Jean, cited, 18 ; his manuscripts and ac- count of him, 22. AUerton, Isaac, at Marblehead, 236. Appledore Island, IGO, 187. Argall, Sir Samuel, his descent at Mount Desert Island, 24, 36. Arnold, Governor Benedict, extract from his will, 371, note. Arnold, General Benedict, 427; anecdote of, 427, 428 ; attacks New London, 428, 429 ; birth- place, 437. Aubert, Thomas, supposed discovery by, 21, 275. Audubon, John James, at Mount Desert, 48. Auvergne, Latour de, in America, 396. Auvergne regiment, 396. B. Badger's Island, 149. Bald Head Cliff (York, Maine), described, 115, 116 ; wreck at, 117. Bar Harbor, visit to, 43. Barton, Colonel William, carries off General Pres- cott, 409, 410. Basques, on the New England coast, 125; at Newfoundland, 126. Baye Fran9oise, tiie true Frenchman's Bay, 50. Beauchamp, John, mentioned, 60. Beaver Tail (Newport), 357, 381. Beaver, the, former value of, 41, 42. Beebe, Rev. George, at the Shoals, 167. Belfast, Maine, name of, 63, note. Belknap, Jeremy, his account of a sand-ava- lanche, 319. Berkeley, George (Bishop), portrait of, 368 ; at Newport, 384. Bernard, General Simon, Napoleon's estimate of, 378, 379 ; in the United States, 379 ; builds Fortress Monroe and Fort Morgan, 379, note. Biard, Pere, arrives at Port Royal, 35 ; at Mount Desert, 35. Billington, John, executed at Plymouth, 267. Biron, Due de Lauzun, 394. Blauw, or Blaeuv Guillaume, atlas cited, 21. Block Island, 421. See note. Blue-berries, their value in New England, 39 : humors of the pickers, 120. Blue-fish, singular disappearance of, 344. Blythe, Captain Samuel, killed, 107. Body of Laws, extracts from, 268. Bon Temps, order of, 95, 96. Boon Island, wreck of the Nottingham, 172, 173. Boteler, Lady Anne. See Fenwick. Bradford, William, his manuscript history of Plymouth, 268 ; monument at Plymouth. 277; 284, 285, 286, 290, note, 291 ; receives Massa- soit, 293, 294 ; account of Cape Cod, 307. Brevoort, J. Carson, 359, note. Brigadier's Island, ownership and fishery at, 64. Brock, Rev. John, anecdote of, 163. Brodhead, John Romeyn, mentioned, 22, note, 278. Bromfield, Major, kills Colonel Ledyard, 428. Brother Jonathan, origin of the name, 442, note. Broughton, Nicholas, 251. Brown, Dexter, establishes first stage-coach be- tween Boston and Providence, 411. Brown, Robert, founder of Brownists, 280, note. Brown's Island (Plymouth), disappearance of, 295. Bull, Governor Henry, burial-place of, 405, note. Burrougiis, George, at Wells, 111. Burrows, Lieutenant William, killed, 107. 452 INDEX. C. Cabot, Sebastian, voyage of, 20. Camden Mountains, approach to, 62 ; Indian name of, 93. Canonieut Island, visited, 380. See note. Cape Ann, fishery at, 157. Cape Arundel, spouting-horn at, 47. Cape Bi-eton, early knowledge of, 21. Cape Cod, a coup d'ceil of, 304-300 ; early ac- counts of, 307 ; Poutrincourt's fight at, 308 ; ship canal begun from Barnstable to Buzzard's Bay, 311, no^e; harbors frozen in 1875,320; changes in its exterior shores, 322, 323. Cape Cod Harbor (Provincetown). Cape Neddock, 122. Capuchins, at Pentagoet, 81 ; Napoleon's opinion of, 82. Cartier, Jacques, sails for America, 20 ; manner of taking possession of Canada, 23. Carver, John, supposed burial-place, 27G. Carver, Nathaniel, Lord Nelson's generous act to, 271. Castin, the younger, kidnaped, 81 ; returns to France, 81. Castin, Jean Vincent, Baron de, sketch of, 79, 80 ; in the attack on Pemaquid, 98. Castine, approach to, 64, 65 ; views from Fort George, 65 ; seized and fortified by the British, 67 ; besieged, 68, 69 ; Indian name of, 67 ; Fort Pentagoet described, 74; singular dis- covery of coins at, 74, 75 ; its early history sketched, 76-82 ; old cemetery of, 84. Cedar Island, 160. Chambly, M. de, made prisoner at Pentagoet, 78. Champernovvne, Arthur, 149. Champernowne, Francis, 149. Champlain, Samuel, quoted, 18; title of his map, 22, note ; names Mount Desert, 28 ; voy- age of 1604, 92, 93; suggests " L'Ordre de Bon Temps," 95 ; descries Isles of Shoals, 122 ; description of Plymouth Bay, 274, 275; at Cape Cod, 308 ; account of Indian fishing, 314. C banning, William Ellery, 400, note. Charlevoix's account of siege of Fort William Henry, 99. Chastellux, Marquis, 394. Chilton, Mary, tradition about, 291. Chouacouet. See Saco River. Christmas, how observed in Plymouth, 292. Chubb, Pascho, surrenders the fort at Pemaquid, 99. Church, Colonel Benjamin, at Castine, 75, 302, 372. Church, F. E., anecdote of, .50. Clark, D. Wasgatt, a native of Mount Desert, 49. Clark's Island (Plymouth), 269; sail to, 295; Watson House, 297 ; Election Rock, 297, 298 ; landing of the exploring party, 298. Clinton, Sir Henry, outgeneraled by Washington, 428. Cob-money, specimens found at Castine, 75, note. Cod-fish aristocracy, origin of the appellation, 314. Cod-fishery in the sixteenth century, 156 ; in the seventeenth, 232-236 ; at Provincetown, 313, 314. Coddington, William, sketch of, 360 ; at Anne Hutchinson's trial, 361 ; decay of his family, 362 ; burial-place of, 405. CoflBn, Sir Isaac, founds a school at Nantucket, 341, 342. Coggeshall, John, at Anne Hutchinson's trial, 361 ; monument to, 405. Colbert mentioned, 78, 82. Collins, Captain Gamaliel, 316, Colonial society described, 60. Connecticut River, settlements on, 444, 445, 446. Constitution, frigate, chased into Marblehead, 256. Corey, Giles, pressed to death, 227. Corwin, Jonathan, a witch-judge, 223. Cousin, Captain, story of his discovery of Amer- ica, 22. Cradock, Governor Matthew, establishes fishing- station at Marblehead, 236. Cranberry, the, growth and culture of, 39, 317. Cranberry Islands, 39. Cromwell, Oliver, his proposed emigration to New England, 446. Cushman, Charlotte, residence at Newport, 375. Cushman, Robert, 277. Cushman, Thomas, 277. Cutts, Captain Joseph, 143. Cutts, Sarah Chauncy, sad story of, 142, 143. Cuttyhunk, first English colony at, 327. See note. D. Damariscotta, oyster-shell heaps at, visited and described, 100, 101. Daniel, Father, his history mentioned, 23. Dartmouth Indians sold as slaves, 302. D'Aulnay Charnisay (Charles de Menou), at Pentagoet, 76 ; imbroglio with La Tour, 77 ; his death, 78. Dean, John Ward, 173, note. Deane, John, 173. Deane, Silas, Mr. Adams's opinion of, 431. Decatur, Stephen, blockaded at New London, 432 ; duel with Barron, 433. See note. De Costa, B. F.. mentioned, 22, note. De Monts, efforts of. to obtain colonists, 25 ; cedes his privileges in Acadia, 34, 35 ; his INDEX. 453 commission and privileges, ir)3-155 ; descries tlie Isles of Shoals, 155; in Plymouth Bay, 273, 274-, 275. Dermer, Captain Thomas, at Nantucket, 324. Deux-Fonts, Count Christian, anecdote of, 395. iS'ee note. D'Iberville, makes a demonstration against Pem- aquid, 97 ; captures Fort William Henry, 98. See note. Dighton Rock, inscription attributed to North- men, 309, 41(), 417, 418. Dorr Rebellion, 3G5, note. Doty or Doten, Edward, fights a duel, 266, 297, note. Douglass, William, quoted, 23, 24. Down East, an undiscovered country, 85, 86. Drake, Sir Bernard, manner of his death, 24. Dreuillettes, Pere Gabriel, at Plymouth, 285. Duck Island, 160, 190. Dummer, Shubael, minister of York, 135. Dumplings, fort on, 358, 380, 381. Dunbar, Colonel David, at Pemaquid, 100. Dutch Island, 380. Du Thet, Gilbert, killed at Mount Desert, 36. Duxbury, sail to, from Plymouth, 299 ; Cap- tain's Hill and monument, 300 ; historic per- sonages of Duxbury, 300, et seq. Dwight, Timothy, at Newport, 370. E. Ellery, William, his death, 400. Endicott, Governor John, his ftirm, 218, 255. Estaing, Count de, at Newport, 387 ; guillotined, 388. Excommunication in New England churches, 280, 281, note. Faunce, Thomas, identifies Plymouth Rock, 289, note. Fenwick, George, 445, 446, 447. Fenwick, Lady, her remarkable monument, 446 ; her story, 447. Fillmore, John, exploit of, 176. Fisher's Island, 420, 422, note. Flucker, Lucy, marries General Knox, 61. Fly, William, the pirate, 177, 178. Forefatlier's Day, its true date and significance, 290. Fort Adams, 358 ; Fort Day, 377 ; history of the fortress, 377, 378. Fort Constitution, Great Island, New Hampshire, 199, 200. Fort Fenwick, Snybrook, 444, 445. Fort Frederick, I'emaquid, descril)ed, 96. Fort George, Castine, described, 66 ; siege of, 67, 68, 69 ; imprisonment and escape of Gen- eral Wadsworth and Major Burton, 70, 71. Fort Griswold, 422. See note ; assault on, 428, 429. See note. Fort M 'Clary, 144. Fortress Monroe, 379. Fort Morgan, Mobile, 379, note. Fort Pentagoet, (lastine, described, 73, 74. Fort Point, site of, 63, 66. Fort Sewall, Marl)lehead, 255. Fort Trumbull, 422. See note, 428. Fort William Henry, Pemaquid, description and importance of, 97 ; captured by D'Iberville, 99. Fort Wolcott, 358. See note. Fox, George, at Newport, 403 ; denounces the New England magistrates, 403. See note. Frankland, Sir Charles, romantic marriage of, 256. Franklin, Benjamin, 341. Fremont, General John C, mentioned, 43. Friday not an unlucky day, 26. Funeral customs, ancient, 136. G. Gardiner's Island, 448, note. Gardiner, Lion, at Saybrook, 445, 448. See note. Garrison-houses described, 139, 140. Gay Head, Indian legend of, 349. George III., cause of his insanity, 394. Gerrish's Island, 149. Gerry, Elbridge, 249, 250. Gerrymander, the, origin of, 250, note. Gibson, James, 146. Gilbert, Raleigli, with Popham's colony, 93. Gilbert, Sir H., method of taking possession of Newfoundland, 23. Glover, General John, anecdote of, 253 ; tomb of, 259. Goat Island, Newport, 358. Gorgeana. See Old York. Gorges, Sir F., notice of Weymouth's voyage, 92 ; plantation at Agamenticus, Old York, 131, et seq. Gorges, Ferdinando, son of Thomas, 131. Gorges, Robert, 133. Gorges, Thomas, mayor of Gorgeana, 131. Gorges, Captain William, 131. Great Head Clift', Mount Desert, 50. Great Island. See Newcastle. Gregoire, Madame, at Mount Desert, 56. Gridley, Richard, at Louisburg, 147. Groton, the battle mcmument, 427; British at- tack on, 426; the Pecpiots destroyed, 429, 430. Guercheville, Madame de, attempts to colonize Mount Desert, 34, 35, 36. 454 INDEX. H. Hakluyt, Richard, quoted, 19. Hale, Rev. John, on witchcraft, 214. Haley's Island. See Smutty Nose. Haley, Samuel, 175 ; his epitaph, 183, Hamilton, Lady Emma, 433. Hancock, Dorothy Quincy, 204, 205. Hardy, Sir Thomas Masterman, off New Lon- don, 432 ; declines a duel of ships, 433 ; at Nelson's death-bed, 433. Harrison, Peter, 360. See note. Hart, General William, 433. See note. Hawkins, Thomas, the pirate, 17G. Hawthorne, Nathaniel, birthplace of, 221, Hebrews at Newport, 366, 367. Hempstead, Sir Robert, 425. Henrietta d'Orleans poisoned, 56. Henry IV. 's projects in the New World, 20 ; as- sassinated, 35. Herring Cove, 319, 320. Hessians at Newport, 380, 381. Higginson, Francis, account of Salem, etc., 241. Hilton, Martha, romantic story of, 205, 206. Hilton, Richard, 205. See "note. Hog Island. See Appledore. Holmes's Hole, 327, note. Hontvet, John, heroism of his wife, 185. Hopkins, Dr. Samuel, 406. Howe, Richard, Earl, naval action with D'Es- taing, 388. Howland's Ferry, 413, note. Hull, Commodore Isaac, 443. 444. Hull, General William, mentioned, 56. Humphries, Joshua, report on establishing a dock-yard at Newport, 378. Huntington, General Eben, 438, 439. Huntington, General Jedidiah, 438. Huntington, Governor Samuel, 439. Hutchinson, Anne, her trial and banishment, 361, 362, Ireson, Benjamin (called Flood), of Marblehead, story of, 253, 254. Isle an Haut, named, 29. Isle Nauset, total disappearance of, 322. Isle of Rhodes. See Rhode Island. Isles of Shoals, De Monts sees tiiem, 155 ; de- scribed by Smith and Levett, 155, 156 ; advan- tages for fishery, 157 ; sail from Portsmouth, 158; isles described, 160, see note; their name, 161 ; general aspect of, 162 ; Star Island ram- bles, 162, et seq. ; semi-barbarous condition of ancient Gosport, 164, 165; burial-grounds, 166, 167; cavernsandcliffs, 168, 169, 170; Miss Un- derbill's chair, 170, 171 ; mountains seen off the coast, 172, note; dun-fish, 174 ; Smutty Nose, 175 ; piracy in colonial time, 176-179 ; Black- beard, 178 ; Thomas Morton, Gent., 180, 181 ; Samuel Haley, 183 ; the Spanish wreck, 184 ; Wagner, the murderer, 185, 186 ; Appledore, 186-190; Duck Island, 190; Londoner's, 191 ; White Island Light, 192. Jackson, Andrew, 151, Jeffrey's Ledge, 161. Jesuits, persecutions by, 82 ; intrigues of, 82, 83. Jones, Margaret, executed as a witch, 210. Jourdan, Jean Baptiste, Marshal of France, at Newport, 388. Judson, Adoniram, 277. Kadesquit, probably Kenduskeag, 35. Kalb, Baron de, in New England on a secret mission, 387. Kennebec River, discovery and name, 92. King, Charles Bird, 368. Kittery Point, named, 141, note ; the Cutts House, 142 ; Fort M 'Clary, 144 ; the Pepper- ells, 144, et seq.; Pepperell tomb, 147; Ger- rish's Island, 149 ; other islands, 149 ; John Langdon, 150, 151. Knox, General Henry, connection with Waldo patent, 61 ; involves General Lincoln, 62. Lafa3'ette, 390 ; at Newport, 391. Laighton, Thomas B., 192. Langdon, John, anecdotes of, 150, 151, 200, note. La Peyrouse in America, 71. La Tour, Aglate, sells the seignior^' of Acadia, 78. La Tour, Chevalier, mentioned, 76 ; troubles with D'Anlnay, 77, 78. Lawrence, Captain James, death of, 257. Lee, General Charles, at Newport, 356, note, 404. Lee, Colonel Jeremiah, sketch of, 245. Lee, John, 247. Lee, William Raymond, 247. Leffingwell, Thomas, relieves Uncas, 436. Leonard Forge, Taunton, 419. Lescarbot, Marc, his criticism of Alfonse, 18 ; quoted, 58. Levett, Christopher, mentioned, 96 ; describes Agamenticus, 131 ; at Isles of Shoals, 155, 156, 161 ; notice of Plymouth, 273. Leverett, John, a Muscongus patentee, 60 ; at Pentagoet, 78. INDEX. 455 Lincoln, General Benjamin, sketch of, 01. Livermore, Samuel, attempts to shoot Captain Broke, 257. Lobsters, process of canning for mai'ket, 84 ; facts about, 85. Longfellow, Hon. Stephen, 71. Long Island Sound, 421. Londoner's Island, IGO, 191. Louis XIV. marries IJe Maintenon, 82 ; opinion of La Salle's discoveries, 8:J. Lovell, Solomon, commands in Penobscot expe- dition, 08 ; retreats, 09. M. Mackerel, habits of, 91. Macy, Thomas, settles at Nantucket, 339. '• Magnalia," Mather's, Southey's opinion of, 93. Maine, sea-coast of, 17, 18; embraces Norum- bega, Mavoshen, 18 ; other names applied to her territory, 18 ; French occupation of, 18 ; her enterprise and products, GO ; part of Mas- sachusetts, 08. Maintenon, Madame de, intrigue with the Jesu- its, 82, 83. Malaga Island, 100. Malbone, Colonel Godfrey, 408, 409. Malbone, Edward G., 409. Mananas Island, 104. Manly, John, 251, 252. Mansell, Sir Robert, mentioned, 34. Marblehead, its conformation and topography, 228, 229, 230, 231 ; Laf lyette there, 229 ; isl- ands off the port, 231 ; the Neck, 231 ; annals and decay of the cod-fishery, 232, 233, 234, 235; early settlement, 230, 241, 242; de- scribed, 238, 239, 240, 241 ; character of early fishermen, 243; Goelet's account, 243; Lee Mansion, 245, 240; St. Michael's, 248; the old sea-lions, 251, 252 ; the dialect, 254 ; Fort Sewall, 255 ; Chesapeake and Shannon, 250, 257 ; old burial - ground, 258 ; perils of the fishery, 259, 200. Marriage, first, in New England, 285. Mashope, legend of, 349. Mason, Captain John, 201. Mason, John, attacks the Pequot stronghold, 429, note, 430. Massachusetts Bay, alleged discovery of, 18, 22. Massachusetts Historical Society, motive of its founding, 147. Massasoit, entry into Plymouth, 293, 294. Masse, Enemond, at Mount Desert, 35. Mavoslien, Maine, so styled, 18. Mayhew, Thomas, purchases Nantucket, 339 ; owns Martha's Vineyard and Elizabeth Isl- ands, 340. May-pole, ancient custom of, 182. M 'Clary, Andrew, 144. M'Lean, Colonel Francis, seizes and fortifies Castine, 07. , Mercator, atlas of, cited, 21. Miantonimo makes war on Uncas, 435 ; is killed, 430. Miantonimo Hill, 407, 408. Mohegan Indians, 430, 437. Monhegan Island, probably seen and named in 1004, 92, 102 ; early knowledge of, 102 ; de- scribed, 104 ; inscription at, 100 ; naval battle near, 100, 107, 324. Moody, Joseph, Handkerchief, 135. Moody, llev. Samuel, anecdote of, 135 ; epitaph, 130. Moore, Sir John, at Castine, 07 ; Napoleon's opinion of, 08. Morse, Rev. Jedediah, at the Shoals, 104 ; de- scribes curing fish, 174. Morse, S. F. B., paints Landing of Pilgrims, 264. Morton, Thomas, his banishment, 180, 181. Mount Desert Island, discovered and named, 28 ; Champlain's description of, 29 ; mountain ranges, 29-32 ; approach from Ellsworth, 31 ; first settlers, 33 ; road to South-west Harbor, 33, 34; French colony on, 34, 35, 30; shell- heaps at, 37; neighborhood of South-west Harbor, 38, 39 ; islands oiF Somes's Sound, 39 ; Christmas on, 40, et seq. ; route to Bar Harbor, 41, 42 ; island nomenclature, 42 ; isl- ands off Bar Harbor, 43 ; shore rambles to Schooner Head and Great Head, 43-48 ; nat- uralists and artists who have visited, 48-50: excursion to Otter Creek and North-east Har- bor, .53, 54 ; the Ovens, etc., 55, 50. Mount Desert Rock, 53. Mount Hope, 414, 415, 416. Mugford, Captain James, 252, 253, 259. Muscongus patent, history of, 00, 01. N. Nantucket, its early discovery, 324 ; name, 32.5, 341 ; voyage to, 320, 327 ; the town described. 328, 329, 330 ; whales, ships, and whaling. 331-334 ; Nantucket in the Revolution, 335 ; cruising for whales, 335 ; the camels, 33(i : whaling annals, 330, 337 ; white settlement of the island, 339, 340, 341 ; Coffin school and Admiral Sir Isaac CoflSn, 342 ; black-fisliing. 343, 344 ; blue-fishing at the Opening, 344. 34.5,340; Coatue, 347; Indian legends, 349 : Indian absolutism, 3.50 ; wasting of the sliores. 350; Siasconset, 351, 352; the great South Shoal, 353; Sankoty Head, 354; Siufside, 354. 456 INDEX. Narraganset Bay, Verrazani's supposed sojourn in, 359. Nautican or Nauticon. See Nantucket. Nelson, Horatio, Lord, chivalric conduct of, 39.5. See note ; death-scene of, 4:33. Nelson, John, important services of, 98. Newcastle, 196, et seq. ; the Pool, 197 ; old char- ter and records, 198, 199 ; Little Harbor, 200. New England of ancient writers, 17-27 ; early names of, 18, 19 ; first called New England, 20 ; attempts to colonize, 24 ; quality of emi- gration to, 25 ; patents of, 133 : supposed visit of Northmen, 369, note. Newfoundland, English occupation of, 23 ; seiz- ures of Portuguese at, 24 ; Basques at, 126 ; fisheries of, 156. New France, New England included in, 20, 21. New London, sail up the Thames, 422 ; the tow^n and its beginnings, 422, 423 ; light-houses and light-ships, 423, 424 ; Hempstead House, 425 ; Court - house, 424 ; old burial-ground, 426 ; the harbor, 426 ; Arnold's descent, 428, 429. Newport Artillery, 363, 364. Newport, the old town, 356, et seq. ; its climate, 357 ; approach from sea, 357, 358 ; its com- merce, 359 ; street rambles, 359-372 ; City Hall, 360 ; Coddington's Cove, 362 ; the Wan- tons, 362, 363 ; State House, 363, 364 ; Jews' cemetery, 365, 366, 367 ; Redwood Library, 367, 368 ; Old Stone Mill, 369, 370, 371, 372; Cliff Walk, 373, et seq. ; Forty Steps, 374 ; cottage life at the sea-side, 375 ; Lily Pond, Spouting Hock, and Brenton's Reef, 376 ; Fort Adams and Fort Day, 377, 378, 379 ; Napo- leon's engineer, 378, 379 ; Dumplings, 380 ; Hessians, 381 ; the drives, 381,382; the beach- es and Purgatory, 382, 383 ; Hanging Rock and Whitehall, 884 ; the French occupation, 386, et seq.; French diplomacy, 387 ; attack of D'Estaing, 387, 388 ; celebrities of the French army and navy, 388-397 ; Rhode Island cem- etery, 398, et seq.; Quaker annals, 401, et seq.; other burial-places, 405, 406. Noailles, Viscount de, 391, 392. Norembegue. See Norumbega. North, Lord, how he received the news of Coni- ■wallis's surrender, 393. Northmen, supposed voyage to New England, 369, note. Norton, Francis, settles at Agamenticus, 131. Norumbega, river and country of, 18, 19, 21 ; ex- plored by Champlain, 28. Norwich, approach to, 434 ; the Mohegans, 435, 436, 437; the town, 439, 440, 441. Nubble, The, not Savage Rock, 120. Nurse, Rebecca, executed for witchcraft, 213, 224, 226. O. Oak Bluffs, cottage city at, 375. Odiorne's Point, first settlement of New Hamp- shire at, 200. Ogunquit described, 114, 115. Old Colony, seal of, 267. Oldham, John, his ingenious punishment at Plym- outh, 286, 287 ; killed, 421. Old South Church, Boston, New England, library in, plundered, 268. Old Stone Mill, Newport, 369, 370, 371, 372. Orleans, ancient wreck discovered at, 322. Ortelius, map of, 19, 20. Otis, James, at Plymouth, 288. P. Paddock, Ichabod, teaches Nantucket men how to take whales, 315. Parris, Samuel, witch-finders at his house, 213 ; his minutes of examination, 224. Peabody, George, 218. Pease, Samuel, fight with pirates, 176. Pemaquid Point, visit to, 87, et seq.; British de- scent at, repulsed, 89 ; porgee fishery at, 89, 90 ; early history, 92-101 ; Weymouth, at, 92 ; Fort Frederick, at, 96, 97 ; other fortifications, 97 ; Fort William Henry, at, captured, 99 ; ancient settlement at, 100 ; Indians kidnaped by Wey- mouth, 105. Pemetiq. See Mount Desert. Pentagoet, meaning of the name, 19, note ; on Blauw's map, 21 ; how settled, 25. See Cas- tine. Penobscot Bay and River, Champlain's account of, 18, 19 ; called Pemetegoit, 19 ; meaning of name, 19, note ; called Pembrock's Bay, 21 ; Smith's account of, 24 ; approach to in a fog, 58, 59 ; described, 63, 64. Penobscot Expedition, history of, 68, 69. Pepperell, Andrew, his affair with Hannah Wal- do, 61. Pepperell, Sir William, 61 ; sketch and residence of, 144-147 ; portrait of, 145, 146 ; his tomb, 147 ; Pepperell William, Sen., 188. Perry, Oliver Hazard, 363 ; monument to, 401, 404. Peters, Hugh, 445. Philip, King, 349 ; seat at Mount Hope, 414 ; his capture, 416. Phips, Sir William, builds Fort William Henry, 97 ; his connection with witchcraft, 210 ; ac- cusation of his wife, 214. Pigot, Sir Robert, defends Newport, 387. Pilgrims, the, not strictly Puritans, 280 ; their church, 280, 281, 282 ; land at Cape Cod, 307. INDEX. 457 Pillory, one described, 3G5. Piscataqua, capture proposed, 80 ; sail down, 159; Earl Bellomoiit's opinion of, li)7. Plymouth Bay, 2(18, 27-i, 275. Plymouth Beach, 2G9. Plymouth, on Smith's map, 21 ; establishes a trading-house at Castine, 7G ; dispossessed, 70, 77 ; the colony patents, 183 ; Plymouth de- scribed, 2G2 ; Pilgrim memorials, 2G3-2G7 ; pictures of the "Landing,"' 2G'4 ; first duel at Plymouth, 2GG ; the colony seal, 2G7 ; the compact, 2G7 ; first execution, 2(')7; Pilgrim laws and chronicles, 268 ; Burial Hill, 2G8, 276, 277, 278, 279; the harbor, 268, 269; names of the settlement, 270 ; why it was chosen, 271 ; desolated by a plague, 272, 273 ; French make the first landing, 27-1, 275 ; oth- er settlements called Plymouth, 276 ; Pilgrims' first church, 278 ; church customs, 279, 280 ; Leyden Street, 283, et seq.; the town in 1627, 284; Governor Bradford's, 286; AUyne House^ 287 ; Cole's Hill, 288 ; Plymouth Rock, 289 ; the Landing, 290, 291 ; Samoset, 292 ; entry of Massasoit, 293, 291: ; Clark's Island, 295, et seq. See article, Clark's Island, Plymoutli Beach, 296. Plymouth, England, 270. Plum Island, 421. Point Judith, 357. See note. Point of Graves, 196, 202. Poore, Ben Perley, mentioned, 22, note. Popham, Cliief-justice, efforts to colonize New England, 93, 94. Popham, George, leader of the colony at the Kennebec, 93 ; death, 93. Popular superstitions, some enumerated, 114. Porcupine Islands, 43. Port Royal settled, 95. Port St. Louis. See Plymouth, 275. Pound, Thomas, a pirate, 176. Poutrincourt, Biencourt, arrives at Port Royal, 35, Poutrincourt, Jean de, receives Port Royal from De Monts, 34 ; his fight with natives at Cape Cod, 308. Pownall, Thomas, builds a fort on the Penob- scot, 66. Prior, Matthew, allowed roast beef in Lent, 314. Provincetown, described, 309-312; Town Hill, 311 ; cape names, 312 ; Portuguese colony at, 312, 313 ; fishery of, 313, et seq. ; whaling from, 315 ; the desert, 316 ; cranberry culture, 317; walk to Race Point, 316, et seq.; the sand-avalanche, 319 ; huts of refuge. Herring Cove, 319 ; the terrible winter of 1874-'75,« 320 ; disasters on the ocean side, 321, 322. Prudence Island, 380. Purchas, Samuel, quoted, 24. Purgatory Bliifi', 383. Puritans distinguished from Separatists, 280. Putnam, (iencral Israel, hirtliplace of, 217; la- conic letter to Governor Tryon, 218. Q. Quakers as sailors, 339. See note, 401, et seq. ; persecution in New England, 402, 403; burial customs, 404. Quincy, Dorothy (Madam Hancock), 205. Quincy, Josiah, 406. Quincy, Judith, 357. R. Race Point, 311, 319. Ramusio, Giambetta, map cited, 21. Rasieres, Isaac de, at Plymouth, 278, 283. Razilly, Isaac de, commands in Acadia, 77. Redwood, Abraham, 3G7, 368. *See note. Redwood Library, Newport, 3G8. See note. Revere, Paul, in Penobscot expedition, G8. Rhode Island, island of, 407, et seq. ; Tonomy Hill, 407 ; the Glen, 408 ; Prescott's capture, 409, 410 ; Talbot's feat, 410, 411 ; early stages, 411 ; Lawton's Valley, 412 ; early settlement of, 413, 414 ; Revolutionary earthworks and history, 413, 414. Richmond's Island, 369, note. Rochambeau, Count, proposes the capture of Penobscot, 71 ; at Newport, 388, 389, 390, 391. Rockland, brief sketch of, 59, 60. S. Saco Beach, superstition relative to, 114. Saco River, on Blauw's map, 21 ; Richard Vines at, 133 ; De Monts there, 154. Salem in 1G92, 220, 222 ; old witch house, 223 ; Witch Hill, 225 ; hanging the condemned witches at, 226; formation of church at, 281. Salem Village, witchcraft at, 208, et seq. ; the Witch Ground, 213 ; names of the witch-find- ers, 213, note ; their motives and power, 214 ; humors of witchcraft, 215, 216. Salmon, disappearance of, 64. Saltonstall, Captain, commands in Penobscot ex- pedition, 68 ; disagreement witli General Lov- ell, G9. Samoset, sagamore of Pemaquid, 96, 264 ; at I'lymouth, 292, 293. Sandeyn, Arthur, 25G. Sankoty Head, 354. Sargent, Henry, i)aints "Landing of Pilgrims," 264. Sassafras, its medicinal virtues, 126. Savage Rock, probably at Cape Ann, 120, 121. 458 IJsDEX. Say, Lord, proposes to emigrate to New England, 446. Saybrook, 441, (?< seq.; Hart mansion, 443 ; old fortress at tlie Point, 444 ; settled, 445 ; Crom- well's proposed emigration to, 440 ; old burial- place, 446, 447, 448. Scallop-shell, its historical significance, 348. Schooner Head, a visit to, 46. Seabury, Samuel, Bishop, 425. 426. See note. Sedgwick, Robert, at Pentagotit and Jamaica, 78. Selman, John, 251. Sewall, Samuel, recants his belief in witchcraft, 225. Sewall, David, 136. Sheafie, Jacob, 151. Sherburne. See Nantucket. Shipwrecks: the Isidore, 111, et seq.; on Smut- ty Nose, 184 ; the Nottingham, 172, 173 ; at Cape Cod, 272 ; the General Arnold, 296 ; the .Tames Rommell, 320, 321 ; the Giovanni, 321, 322 ; Essex, of Nantucket, 337. Siasconset, Nantucket Island, visited, 350, 351, 352. Siddons, Sarah, anecdote of, 376. Smibert, John, at Newport, 384, 385. See note. Smith, Captain David, 316, note. Smith, John, names New England, 20 ; his map, 21 ; mentions Monhegan, 104 ; monument. Star Island, 167 ; Appledore, 189 ; account of Cape Cod, 307. Smutty Nose Island, 160, 175, 182. Somes's Sound, 31, et passim. Somesville, Mount Desert, 30; first settlers of, 33. Southack, Cyprian, his chart, 308. Southworth, Alice (Carpenter), 284, 285. Sparhawk, Harriet Hirst, 147. Sparhawk, William (Pepperell), 147. Standish, Miles, his sword, 266 ; residence, 300 ; sketch of, 301. Star Island, 160, 162, et seq. Stephens, Rev. Josiaii, epitaph of, 166. Steuben, Baron, arrival at Portsmouth, 207. Stevens, General Isaac Ingalls, 401. Stiles, Dr. Ezra, at Newport, 304, 368. Story, Elisha, 248. Story, Joseph, birthplace of, 248. Stoughton, William, 225. Straftbrd, Eari of, 204. Stuart, Gilbert, anecdote of, 406. Sullivan, John, 200, note ; fights a battle on Rhode Island, 419. See note. Surriage, Agnes, marries a baronet, 256. Talbot, Silas, brilliant achievement of, 410, 411. Tarrantines, their country, 19, 24. Taunton River, 414, 415, 416, 417. Temple, Sir Thomas, renders Fort Pentagoet, 74, 78. Ternay, M. de, Admiral, dies at Newport, 391. Thatcher, James, 2G4, note. Thaxter, Celia Laighton, 192. Tiievet, Andre', cited, 19, note. Thomaston, Maine, named, 60, note. Thompson, David, at Little Harbor, 201. Totten, General Josejih Gilbert, builds Fort Ad- ams, 378 ; relations with General Simon Ber- nard, 379. Touro, Abraham, 366, note, 367. Touro, Judah, 367, note. Trevett, Samuel, 253. Truro, Provincetown part of, 309. Tucke, Rev. John, 163, 166, 167. Tucker, Samuel, 252. Tuckanuck Island, 344. See note. U. Uncas, fights and conquers Miantonimo, 435 ; slays him, 436 ; burial-place, 436 ; friendshij) for the English, 437. See note. Underbill, Nancy J., death at Star Island, 170, 17L V. Vane, Plenry, procures a pass for New England, 94, 413. Vaughan, Colonel William, 146. Verrazani, Juan, his voyage, 20 ; gives New En- gland a Christian name, 20. Vines, Richard, in New England, 133, 272. Vinton, Rev. Francis, burial-place of, 401. W. Wadsworth, Peleg, in Penobscot expedition, 68 ; kidnaped, 69 ; escapes from Fort George, 70, 71. Wagner. Louis, 138, 185, 186. Waldo, Hannah, marries Thomas Flucker, 61. Waldo patent. See Muscongus patent. Waldo, Samuel, sketch of, 61. Wanton, Joseph, his personal appearance, 363, see note ; portrait of, 368 ; arrested, 405. Warren, James, originates a Revolutionary junto, 288. Warren, Mercy, her history of the Revolution, 288. Washing-day in New England, inaugurated, 307. Washington, George, at Kittery, 151 ; at Mar- blehead, 247 ; disapproves the occupation of Newport by Rochambeau, 389 ; at Newport, 391. INDEX. 459 Watcli Hill, Rhode Island, 420. See note. Webster, Daniel, residence and burial-place, 302. Wells, Maine, walks in, 110 ; beach rambles, 111, 112, 113. Wentworth, Benning, his mansion, Little Harbor, 203, et seq. Wentworth, Frances Deering, 20G, 207. Wentworth, Hon. Jolin, 202. Wentworth, John, 202. Wentworth, Sir John, sketch of, 20G, 207. Wentwortli, Colonel Michael, 206, note. Wentworth, Samnel, 202. * Wentworth, Reginald, 201. Weymouth, Captain George. See note, 7G ; ac- counts of his voyage, 92 ; at Monhegan Isl- and, 104, 105. Whale-fishery in New England, originates at Cape Cod, 315 ; of Nantucket, 331, et seq. Wheelwright, John, sketch of him, 110. White Island, IGO, 192. Whitefield, George, 147. Williams, Roger, residence of, 222 ; on Quakers, 404, 413. Winslow, General John, 303. Winthrop, John, Jim., 422, 423, note. Witchcraft. See Salem Village. Wood End, 311. Wyllys, Samuel, buys I'lum Island, 421. Yale College, founded at Saybrook, 448, 449. Yankee, disappearance of the, 442. York, called Boston, 21; Cape Neddock, 122; York Beach, 127; York Harl)or, 130; histor- ical re'sume, 131; indifferent ie,)ntati()n of, 132; meeting-house, first parish, 134 ; old- jail, 1.36; Woodliridge's tavern, 138; Cider Ilill, 138; garrison-house, 139, 140; Sewall's bridge, 141. THE END. 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Comprising Chapters on Honduras, San Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Guatemala, Belize, the Bay Islands, the Mosquito Shore, and the Honduras In- ter-Oceanic Railway. By E. G. Squiee, formerly Charge d'Affairs of the United States to the Repub- lics of Central America. With numerous Original Maps and Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, $4 00. SQUiER'S NICARAGUA. Nicaragua: its People, Scenery, Monuments, Resources, Condition, and Proposed Canal. With One Hundred Maps and Il- lustrations. By E. G. Sqdiek. 8vo, Cloth, ,$4 00. SQUIER'S WAIKNA. Waikna ; or. Adventures on the Mosquito Shore. By E.G. Squier. With a Map and upward of 00 Illustrations. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50. STEPHENS'S TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. Travels in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan. By J. L. Stephens. With a Map and 8S Engravings. 2 vols., Svo, Cloth, $G 00. STEPHENS'S TRAVELS IN YUCATAN. Incidents of Travel in Yucatan. By J. L. Sti ruENS. 120 En- gravings, from Drawings by P. Catherwood. 2 vols., Svo, Cloth, $6 00. STEPHENS'S TRAVELS IN EGYPT. Travels in Egypt, Arabia Petrasa, and the Holy Land. By J. L. STEPUE^s. Engravings. 2 vols., 12mo, Cloth, $3 00. STEPHENS'S TRAVELS IN GREECE. Travels in Greece, Turkey, Russia, and Poland. By J. L. Stephens. 2 vols., 12mo, Cloth, $3 00. THOMSON'S LAND AND BOOK. The Land and the Book; or. Biblical Illustrations drawn from the Manners and Customs, the Scenes and the Scenery of the Holy Land. By W. M. Thomson, D.D., Twen- ty-tive Years a Missionary of the A.B.C.F.M. in Sy- ria and Palestine. With Two elaborate Maps of Palestine, an accurate Plan of Jerusalem, and Sev- eral Hundred EntiramnxiK, representing the Scenery Topography, and Productions of the Holy Land, ancl tiie Costumes, Manners, and Habits of ihe Peo- ple. 'r 50. WALLACE'S MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. The Malay Archipelago: the Land of the Oraug-Utan, and the Bird of Paradise. A Narrative of Travel, 1854-'C2. With Studies of Man and Nature. By Alfred Rus- bel Wallace. With Maps and numerous Illustra- tions. Crown Svo, Cloth, $3 50. SPEKE'S AFRICA. Journal of the Discovery of the Source of the Nile. By Captain John Banning Speke, Captain H. M.'s Indian Army, Fellow and Gold Medalist of the Royal Geographical Society, Hon. Corresponding Member and'Gold Medalist of the French Geographical Society, &c. AVith Maps and Portraits and numerous Illustrations, chiefly from Drawings by Captain Grant. Svo, Cloth, $4 00. WILKINSON'S ANCIENT EGYPTIANS. A Popu- lar Account of the Ancient Egyptians. Revised and Abridged from his larger Work. By Sir J. Gardner Wilkinson, D.C.L., F.R.S., &c. Illus- trated with 500 Woodcuts. 2 vols., 12mo, Cloth, $3 50. KINGSLEY^'S WEST INDIES. The West Indies. At Last: A Christmas in the West Indies. By the Rev. Charles KiNGSLEY. Illustrated. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50. BURTON'S CITY OF THE SAINTS. The City of the Saints : and Across the Rocky Mountains to California. By Captain Richard F. Burton, Fellow and Gold Medalist of the Royal Geographical Soci- eties of France and England, H.M.'s Consul in West Africa. With Maps and numerous Illustrations. Svo, Cloth, $3 50. BURTON'S LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AF- . RICA. The Lake Regions of Central Africa. A Picture of Exploration. By Richard F. Burton, Captain H.M.'s Indian Army, Fellow and Gold Med- alist of the Royal Geographical Society. With Maps and Engravings on Wood. Svo, Cloth, $3 50. HAVEN'S MEXICO. Mexico. Our Next-Door Neigh- bor. By the Rev. Gilbert Havkn, D.D., Bishop in the M. E. Church. With Maps and Illustrations. Crown Svo, Cloth, $3 50. MACGAHAN'S CAMPAIGNING ON THE OXUS AND THE FALL OP KHIVA. Campaigning on the Oxus and the Fall of Khiva. By J. A. Mac- Gahan. Witli Map and Illustrations. Crown, Svo, Cloth, $3 50. HAZARD'S SANTO DOMINGO. Santo Domingo, Past and Present, with a Glance at Hayti. By Samuel Ha/akd. Maps and Illustrations. Crown Svo, Cloth, $3 50. PIKE'S SUB - TROPICAL RAMBLES IN THE LAND OF THE APHANAPTERYX. By Niouo- LAB Pike, U. S. Consul, Port Louis, Mauritius. Pro- fusely Illustrated. Crown Svo, Cloth, |3 50. . BALDWIN'S AFRICAN HUNTING. African Hunt- ing, from Natal to the Zambesi, including Lake Ngami, the Kalahari Desert, Ac, from 1852 to ISCd. Bv William Charles Baldwin, Esq., F.R.G.S. With Map, Fifty Illustrations by Wolf and Zwecker, and a Portrait. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50. tW For a full b'f^t of ITarper cb Brothers' PnUications, see HARPER'S CATALOGU'^, wliich comprines a large proportion of the inofit esteemed works in the English language, being parti '•nlarhi e: te7isive in the depart- ments of Travel, History, liingraphji. Juvenile and IJeligious Litcratitre. This Catalogue loill be sent by mail on receipt of Ten Cents, or icill be given, free, on personal application to the Publishers.