7dS (Li ^nr^irr^ir^mi — h — ir-^-nr^ir^nr i r | f== Tsg=ir=sn S Coates Sewing and Dress Making Manual V— (T mmmm \ I I w f 3F=IF=q J s 3 3 3 3 5 3 S PRICE ONE DOLLAR r mmmm \ %# s KlM* PUBLISHED BY L. T. COATES & COMPANY CLEVELAND, OHIO ^it=^t^ r==ai r====it==^tag=nf==^ j _i f=n n=ii„ n »==i [==v==ir^ ,. , , -.oOOCNO'', Lesson 2.— RUNNING STITCH.— The stitches through the cloth should be of exact and equal length. It will be in constant use for seams on light materials, French seams, hemming of fragile garments, gathering, etc. The Proof of the Pudding is in the Eating The Proof of "Frederick Service" is In the Trying Every Record Every Victrola $15- $200 Sound Proof Demonstrating Parlors Experienced Salesmen. Try Our Superior Service Today. W. F. FREDERICK PIANO CO. 1612 EUCLID AVENUE Page 6 Sewing Millinery Dressmaking Tailoring Shirt Waist Making Trade Class Apply to the Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and East 18th Cleveland, Ohio West Side Branch Franyin and West 32nd Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister St. Cookery Dining Room Service Dietetics Home Nursing Home Making Chafing Dish Cooking Lesson 3. — BASTING. — The fundamental principle of all good fitting and adjusting lies in the proper basting. Lay your cloth perfectly in place and then fasten by taking even or uneven running stitches through the material as in cut. Lesson 4.— BACKSTITCH.— Take a few running stitches (see Lesson 2), then take a short back stitch back on the upper side and a long stitch forward on the under side. Begin next stitch exactly where last stitch left off on upper side of sewing (see cut 1). The half back stitch is taken half way back between the space of where the thread is drawn through and where the stitch leaves off on the upper side. Lesson 5.— SLANT STITCH.— Begin at the right and work toward the left. Hold your goods with the edges which you are sewing on toward you. Insert the needle under the fold, using two or three stitches to hold (never knot under a fold). Point the needle toward the left shoulder and pass it through a few folds of the material and a few threads of the fold. This is one of the most particular lessons in sewing as every stitch must be exactly the same in height and distance apart. (See cut 1, page 6). Lesson 6.— OVERCASTING AND OVERHANDING.— Baste material with edges exactly even or if single trim smooth and even. From under side draw needle through cloth exact depth to be overcasted or overhanded and take stitch over and through twice to hold firmly. Use Slant Stitch (see Lesson 5), varying the distance between stitches according to the quality and thickness of the material. The two important features of perfect overcasting or over- handing are to have needle point at exact depth and be exact distance between each stitch. CIk Cawson School of music and Other Tine Jim 10507 Superior Avenue Cleveland, Ohio All branches of Music and Dramatic Art taught in a thorough, progressive, practical and artistic manner. Voice Culture of both the singing and speaking voice a specialty. Beginners or Advanced Pupils Private or Class Lessons Day or Evening Best Instruction Moderate Prices Page 7 Have You Tried T^T T TTVT/^O French - American lriLLlllVJO ICECREAM? Lesson 7.— OUTLINE STITCH.— Take even stitches, holding your work with the needle pointing toward you and always keeping the thread on the same side of the needle. Take each stitch back two threads on the preced- ing stitch and draw rather tightly, yet not enough to wrinkle the goods. Belding's New Process Embroidery Silk in eight different twists, and every conceivable shade, guaran- teed fast dve. If your dealer does not carry "Belding's," write us, and we will tell you where it can be obtained. BELDING BROS. & CO. 528 Broadway New York City Lesson 8.— CHAIN STITCH.— Start at the top of your design and always have your needle point towards you. Draw needle through material, hold down thread under left thumb to form a loop, take a short stitch through the material, bringing needle through one stitch distance ahead and proceed as before. Lesson 9.— CABLE STITCH.— The cable stitch is made almost exactly as the chain stitch (see Lesson 8), except that the needle is drawn through at the side, half way back of the previous stitch, instead of at the center. Page 8 Lesson 10. — COUCH STITCH. — 'Couching is made by laying straight lines of thread at equal distances apart across the design. Hold the threads in place with your left hand and fasten them to the material with small stitches on the right side, having the stitches in each row fall between those of the opposite row. The "New" Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog is filled with ideas and suggestions of interest to any woman who em- broiders or does fancy work. It is profusely illustrated and contains designs for all the various kinds of embroideries, such as Eyelet, Seed, Satin, Solid and Outline Including numerous designs for the popular Braid Work and the New Punched Embroidery. Fully explained and illustrated in The New Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog. Send 20 cents for a sample of this work begun on linen, and one of the special large needles. Add 15 cents for The New Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog. COSTUMES, SUITS, SHIRT WAISTS, SKIRT PANELS, BELTS, HAND BAGS, DOILIES, Etc. Are all illustrated, not forgetting the many exquisite designs for Under- wear, and Infants' and Children's Wear. These may be obtained in either the Transfer or Perforated Patterns Purchase a copy today at any newsdealer, or The May Co. Price 10 cents; by mail, 15 cents THE PICTORIAL REVIEW COMPANY THE PICTORIAL REVIEW BUILDING 222 West 39th Street, New York, N. Y. Page 9 .-:■:. I '^t-' fipfkL^ -'- f .*" "Via ■•"- '•-' ■■ ...r.\, ,. . >..m i ., — . - ■ , Lesson 11.— CATCH STITCH.— Baste edges neatly together. Hold loosely in left hand, and work from left to right. Knot thread and draw needle through from under hem having needle come out the exact depth stitch is desired. Point needle to left and take one small stitch through cloth and above hem, Repeat, drawing thread downwards, taking small stitch through hem on exact line of de- sired depth. Lesson 12.— FAGOT STITCH.— Fagotting is used to combine ribbon folds, bands or braid. All work must first be basted over stiff paper or thin oil cloth. Bring thread up through edge of fold and cross from left to right and re- cross from side to side between the folds taking a short stitch through the edge of the folds and passing the needle each time under the thread before taking the stitch. Lesson 13.— FRENCH KNOT.— Bring thread up through the material. Take small back stitch, drawing needle half through cloth. Wind thread two or three times around needle and hold the knot down with the left thumb and pull needle through — then stick the needle through in exactly the same place it was drawn through at first and fasten underneath with short back stitch and bring thread through for the next knot. .8 ji CHEMICAL FLOOR MOP SAVES TIME. «B0R. FLOOBS. M* "ONIT r-.r2S32r floors on "»""»* „, M , Your Furniture, Floors and Woodwork can be Kept Dusted and Polished without Labor By Using DUST- BRIGHT Chemical Floor Mops and Dusting Cloths They "Dust Like Magic" and leave a fine polish, all with one operation. Cost no more and give better results than inferior substitutes. Ask your dealer for " DUST-BRIGHT." If he does not have it advise us and we will see that you are supplied at regular prices. The AmericanTextile Mfg. Co. 1968 West 52nd Street CLEVELAND, OHIO Page 10 Art Work We teach or paint to order, pictures in oil, water-color, pastel or crayon, also teach and do stencil work, china decorating and firing. Paints for china 10c and 15c each. Carlton Studio 1430 Schofield Bldg., Cleveland, O. THE ELLEN C. LONG Book ana Art exchange 31 Taylor Arcade Monogram Work. High Grade Stationery. Dainty Cards. Birthday, Wedding, Anniversary, Congratulations for Birth Announcements and other special occasions. FRAMING A SPECIALTY. Lesson 14.— SEED STITCH.— The seed stitch is made by taking small back stitches covering the leaf or petals of a design or monogram. The rows must be evenly spaced and the stitches in each row falling midway between those of the rows at either side of them. Lesson 15.— DAMASK STITCH.— Fasten thread on wrong side and bring needle up through to right side, carrying the thread across the pattern to be worked. When the desired number of threads have been laid draw through in the opposite direction at even distances apart another set of threads. At the place where the threads cross catch down with the cross stitch. (See Lesson 11.) Lesson 16.— HEMSTITCHING.— Draw the required number of threads and turn hem and baste exactly below last thread drawn. Hold the hem toward you, insert the needle under and through the hem, group from three to as many threads as are desired (always the same number), and draw the needle through to the right of the group and take a short stitch in the fold of the hem. (See cut No. 1, page 6, for exact position of needle). Protect -Yourself - and - the - Breadwinner Then when the unforseen, unexpected piece of bad luck comes, your cash income does not stop just when you most need it. Be positively and safely provided for by the largest Health and Accident Insurance Company in the world. Come in today and let us explain or call up CENTRAL 2357 -W, and ask us to tell you WHAT FIVE CENTS PER DAY WILL DO FOR YOU. We insure both Men and Women. W.E.Watt,Mgr. CONTINENTAL CASUALTY CO. 358 The Arcade ACT TODAY — SICKNESS OR AN ACCIDENT MAY COME TOMORROW Page 11 Lesson 17.— CROSS STITCH.— The cross stitch is simply bringing one stitch across the angle of the other. GOITRE will disappear when treated with MORLENE Also Thick Neck, Tumors, Double Chin, Enlarged Joints, Inflammations The above statement has been so thoroughly proven that we are almost tempted to say Morlene will cure any case of Goitre. However, to avoid possible misrepresentation we will say that in every case Morlene relieves the dangerous and disagree- able conditions accompanying Goitre and gives entire satisfaction to 92% of all cases, no matter how bad or how long standing. Goitre is unsightly and disagreeable, to say the least, and it often produces dangerous condi- tions by affecting the eyes, the breathing or the blood flow to and from the brain, so it is always best to get rid of any enlargements about the throat whether they be Goitre, Thick Neck or Tumors and for the sake of a better appearance the Double Chin. Morlene is not an experiment, its effectiveness has been thoroughly proven, therefore we want every person afflicted with Goitre and similar troubles to know that there is a remedy which is really a success in 92% of all cases. If you are not afflicted but have relatives or friends who are, tell them of Morlene. They should know about it. Your druggist can supply you if he wants your trade. If he fails send us SI. 50 and we will promptly deliver a full size package containing a sufficient quantity for an ordinary treatment of 30 days. MANUFACTURED ONLY BY The Interstate Drug Company Cleveland, Ohio Page 12 THREAD CAST-OFF THE White Rotary is the only machine equipped with a Thread Cast-off. Talk about trouble — why, manufacturers of Rotary machines have had a world of trouble with the thread tangling in the shuttle race, and you can imagine the annoyance it has caused the operator, to say nothing of the loss of time in trying to get the machine to work right. Happily the White experts came to the rescue with this remarkable device — the Thread Cast-off (it's exclusively White) and the difficulty vanished as if by magic. It's just another instance of White superiority. There's no time like the present to look the White over. White Sewing Machine Co. 426 PROSPECT Both Phones SANITATION HEALTH HAPPINESS Our method of fumigation and insect extermination is absolutely the most up-to-date and efficient method in use. It is the ONLY method endorsed by the Government experts of all nations, and recommended by the State Medical authorities as being the only absolute remedy known to Science. No powder dust left — No poison— No bad odors. Penetrates through plastering, upholstered fur- niture, bedding, etc. We rid Boats, Warehouses, Hotels, Churches and Stores of all germs, insects, rats, mice, etc. DON'T NEGLECT YOUR HOME It should be fumigated by our method once a year — then it will be clean and healthful. Our experts are at your service. Our methods are used exclusively on the C. & B. Boats. Let us hear from you. Victor Insect Exterminating Co. 351 The Arcade CLEVELAND, O. Lesson 18.— FEATHER STITCH— BRIAR STITCH.— Mark with pencil or tailor's chalk or run a colored thread along the line to be followed. Knot thread, bring needle through to right side, hold thread down with left thumb, take a short stitch through and to the right side of the mark or line, bring thread down directly on the mark or line and hold with thumb and take short stitch downward to left of the mark or line and repeat taking stitch, first on the right then on the left. (See cut). The double feather or briar stitch is made by taking two stitches to the right and two stitches to the left, instead of one while the triple feather stitch is made by taking three stitches to the right and three to the left. Lesson 19.— LONG AND SHORT STITCH — Follow exact instructions as slant stitch (see Lesson 5), except that one stitch is taken, one-half the dis- tance in depth as the succeeding one. rs^J Lesson 20.— SOLID EMBROIDERY.— Is made by using the long and short stitch in successive rows until the design is entirely filled in. Page 13 Lesson 21.— SATIN STITCH.— (French Embroidery)— The satin stitch is the stitch taken straight across from one edge to the other of the design or taken on a slant from one edge to the opposite edge. You will use the Satin Stitch in making the Chevrons, page IS, or Initials, and in many other designs so much in vogue at the present time. Lesson22.— EMBROIDERY SCALLOP STITCH.— Fasten thread by run- ning and back stitches. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop. Take stitch through material depth desired with needle pointing downward. Draw needle through loop and repeat taking every stitch very closely together so no gap appears between the stitches. Often the depths of the scallops or embroidered edge vary according to the pattern or design to be worked and the outline must be very carefully fol- lowed. The cut shown in Lesson 25, shows the exact position of the needle. LEARN AX OUR EXPENSE How easily the most inexperienced sewer can create perfectly stunning effects in embroidery with the new Reis Gumbac Foundations Scallops. They are very simple. If you can thread a needle you can successfully use them. Just moisten the back and stick on, and work over with silk or cotton. That's all. REIS' FOUNDATION Letters and Scallops help to make your wearing apparel and household linen distinctively rich. They add that much desired tone of expressive charm— an indication of character— the "intangible something" of which a woman can well be proud. Reis' Letters and Scallops make embroidering simply delightful with the Stamping, Underlaying and Basting difficulties eliminated. Reis Gumbac Foundations are not made of ordinary paper or even papier mache. The material in their composition is of European origin. Remarkable as it may seem, we guarantee that they will retain their shape and appearance through all the washings, boilings and ironings that the article on which they are embroidered will withstand. Nor will they discolor or harm the finest fabric. Our standing offer is as follows: "We Will Pay for Any Garment Injured by Reis Gumbac Foundations Through Washing or Ironing." Re!s Gumbac Scallops come in six styles— 26 patterns, and retail at a uniform price of 10c per card of 1J 4 yards to the small sizes and S of a yard to the large. REIS FOUNDATION LETTERS Are made in three styles: Script Block Old English Harmonizing colors of embroidery silk will add to their attractiveness, especially when working mono- gramrr.ed des'gns — easily accomplished by interlacing the letters. Send us your name, a 2-cent stamp and the name of a dealer in your city who would most likely handle our goods. We will send you in re- turn our new booklets, sample strips of scallops and samples of the Reis Letters in your initial. In Sizes from % inch to 10 Inches. Sold at the Art Counter of Any Department Store Reis Initials, 620 Broadway, New York Page 14 THE OLD WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. There is an old, tedious and laborious manner of embroidering scallops and there is a new, pleasant and easy way. The old method is to buy a transfer pattern or hire the stamping done. Then a running stitch must be very carefully taken at the exact line desired to indicate the depth. Then you must pad your scallops with the chain stitch using a good filling cotton. When your foundation is completed then embroider according to embroidery scallop stitch. Lesson 22. D OMESTIC VACUUM C LEANER Dirt and Dust are a Constant Menace to Your Home A large percent of our contagious dis- eases are carried into the home by reason of germ laden dust. The DOMESTIC is the only Vacuum Cleaner with Full Ball-Bearings and a Bali- Bearing Adjustable Roller under the suction plate for light or heavy cleaning. The DOMESTIC is cabinet built and will last a lifetime. The DOMESTIC is the only hand cleaner with attachments for cleaning Mattresses, Upholstery, etc. With these attachments you have a cleaner with every advan- tage of an electric machine at a little greater cost than the best Bissell Carpet Sweeper. The DOMESTIC Hand Cleaner is as powerful as the best portable electric. For free demonstration phone Main 2463, or Central 8258 K, or come to our office. THE B. E. & C. H. STROUD CO. 510 The Arcade Cleveland, Ohio Page 15 AUTOMOBILE PAINTING, TRIMMING, REMODELING AND REPAIRING. 1911 Cars Remodeled with Fore Doors and Repainted to Resemble 1912 Models Telephone--East S40 Smith Carriage $ Auto Co. F. L. Smith, Proprietor 1970 EAST 66TH STREET, NEAR CORNER OF EUCLID AVENUE THE NEW WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. To save time and energy and to insure satisfactory results with your work, procure the necessary length of Reis Foundation Gumbac Scallops, which can be embroidered over without any of the preliminary work explained. All you need to do is to moisten the scallop, press down with your hand and work over with the stitch taught you in Lesson 22. This eliminates all the drudgery of stamping your design and all the filling-in work and gives a much more desirable effect than you can possibly obtain by the ordinary methods. Lesson 23.— BLANKET STITCH.— Begin by fastening thread by using running and back stitch. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop — take stitch depth desired with needle pointing downward, drawing needle through loop, and repeat, taking care to always have the stitches exactly the same distance apart and exactly the same height. The blanket stitch is the same as the buttonhole stitch only each stitch is made instead of very close together as the buttonhole stitch is done, a small distance apart. Lesson 24.— BUTTONHOLE STITCH.— The Buttonhole stitch and the Embroidery Scollop stitch are done exactly the same (see Lesson 22), except that in embroidery the point of the needle is toward the edge while in but- tonholeing the point of the needle is toward the cloth. See cut of Lesson 25, for exact position of needle. Lesson 25.— EYELETS AND EYELET EMBROIDERY.— Eyelets may be round, oval, oblong or pointed. Run a cotton thread around the outlines with very small running stitches to hold the form, then punch with a stiletto. Set the needle for each stitch just outside the cotton outline stitch and draw the point through the stilettoed open- ing or set the needle through the opening, bring- ing the point just outside the outline stitch. Either manner is correct. Make the stitches very even and rather tight and then shape perfectly with ,the stiletto. By courtesy of Pictorial Review Co. Lesson 26.— PUNCHED WORK.— Thread the long special needle used for the work, and knot it at the eye. Then fastening your thread on the under side of the material, begin work in the upper left-hand corner of the design. Bring up the needle in the first dot of the first row, send it down in the first dot of the second row, bring it up again in the first dot of the first row and draw the thread slightly to pull the goods together. Then send the needle down in the first dot of the second row and bring it up in the second dot of the first row, Pass down Page 16 through the second dot of the second row, bring up through the second dot of the first row, draw the thread a bit; pass down through the second dot of the second row and bring up again in the third dot of the first row. When you have done all of the work in one direction, turn the naterial and repeat the stitch at right angles to the first set of stitches, so that the effect will be one of little squares. Lesson 27.— BRAIDING. Braiding is most suitable and effective for a border or a trimming for waists, gowns, suits, evening wraps or children's dresses and can be used on any material. It can be developed with plain braid, soutache, cord, bias tub- ing or fine embroidery or the design can be followed with the outline or chain stitch. On heavy goods such as velvet, serge or linen a braid or cord the color of the material should be used. To secure the most attractive effect the braid should be sewed on the edge so that it will stand up on the material. The stitch used to sew on the braid is a short stitch on the right side of the braid or cord and a long stitch on the back. For materials of net, chiffon or marquisette a dull silver or fine gold or soft silk cord put on with button hole couching makes a most beautiful border or trimming. The stamping of these patterns for braiding must be most carefully done and the design fol- lowed exceedingly accurately in order to produce a satisfactory effect. There is an infinite variety of beautiful designs and patterns now in vogue for braiding, so the plainest or the most fastidious tastes can be satisfied. Those not having the time or the inclination to do this work for themselves can make up their garment and then have experienced braiders neatly and care- fully carry out your ideas in any simple or elaborate design which you may select. Braiding Ladies', Misses' and Children's Dresses, Suits, Coats and Blouses Braided in the latest, most artistic and approved designs. We also make buttons of your own material in all styles. Bring your work to us or call us up by either phone and we will tell you what we can do for you. Joseph Korach & Company (Braiding and Embroidering) 1258 W. FOURTH STREET, CLEVELAND, OHIO ^— ^— — — — ^ m^m j i jj i ._l-Mi II. 1^- H I ■■ L^,li l ■— ^— i Page 17 Use Reis Foundation Let- ters for your monograms or initials. We have plain and fancy letters suitable for every need of embroidery such as lingerie, household linen, handkerchiefs, work bags, table covers, etc. Made in three styles-— Old English— Script— Block— sizes ^g inch to 10 inches. Sold at the needlework department of every de- partment and dry goods store or send for our il- lustrated bcok on embroidering and samples in your initials. REIS 630 BROADWAY •«amo r ASHABLE LETTERS NEW YORK M«»OOIf)EBV The Morehouse Co. will supply you with Reis Foundation Letters for any desired purpose Ask Q t the needlework department Lesson 28.— MONOGRAMS, CHEVRONS AND EMBLEMS, Etc. Chevrons and emblems are very ap- propriate for sailor suits, boys' suits, and a number of purposes which present them- selves and children always delight in an emblem or chevron on their arm, while grown ups always appreciate their mono- gram neatly worked on their garments. You can either get the Reis emblems, chevrons and monogram foundations and work over them with the satin stitch (see Lesson 21), or you can stamp them on crinoline or stiff paper and baste them on the goods and embroider, cutting the paper or crinoline away as soon as fin- ished. Or you may embroider the chev- rons and monograms on a separate piece of broadcloth or linen, and sew on. See lessons on embroidery for the monogram work. Page 18 f This Beautiful Pillow FREE All we ask is that you buy 6 skeins of Richardson's Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk We will give you this en- tire Pillow Outfit in- cluding 1 Pillow Top — — either oblong or square — tinted on Aberdeen Crash. 1 Back for Pillow 1 Diagram Lesson — showing arrangement of stitches and color scheme, and Six Skeins of Richardson's Mercerized Cotton Floss for on i y 25 cents TOUR CHOICE OF TWELVE DESIGNS and a fully illus- or trated lesson for ZDC The Pillow Top and Back are absolutely FREE. This extraordinary offer is made to convince every woman of the superiority Richardson's Grand Prize Wash Embroidery Silk Why not beautify your home with attractive and effective pillows when the opportunity is offered? Every woman wants these attractive pillows and also knows the true value of Richardson's Grand Prize Grecian Floss On sale at BERNER'S ART STORE Arcade Building Cleveland :: Ohio Page 19 I'M THE MAN That'll Always Give You A SQUARE DEAL Clothes of Quality for Men, Women, Boys and Children ON CREDIT HERE you'll find the NEW, the DIFFERENT, the BETTER SORT of Clothing. Clothes of Quality, Distinction and Style, at prices abso- lutely as low as at any cash store. TERMS— $1.00 Down, Pay as you can spare it. CWALLEY'S ^"^ CREDIT STORE 424 Euclid Ave. Cleveland, Ohio Lesson 29.— TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES.— Unless you have tested your skill in making buttonholes it will be wise for you to practice until you are in a fair way to feel confidence in your ability, otherwise you may ruin your garment. First mark the exact length of buttonhole you desire, in the exact place you desire it, then run a thread around the space you intend to cut, then cut straight the slit to be worked, over cast the edges then work with the button hole stitch (as per Lesson 24). The Purest Water Sold in Cleveland ( Bacterial Tests Abundantly Prove the Truth of this Statement ) THE PROCESS OF PURIFICATION necessary for the production of Katharos is the most advanced known to science. THE BOTTLES ARE STERILIZED and rinsed with Katharos before being filled. NOTHING BENEFICIAL IS REMOVED by the process of purification. None of the tonic values are lost. KATHAROS HAS LIFE AND SPARKLE, due to the liberation of gas during the electrolytic action. KATHAROS IS AS PURE AS DISTILLED WATER, but is much more palata- ble and tonic in its qualities. It contains enough of the minerals and salts to make it the most healthful of drinking waters. KATHAROS IS ALWAYS PURE— in which respect it is very unlike spring water, which is best described as being pure until it is declared impure. The volume of sickness traceable to CONTAMINATED SPRINGS is of vast pro- portions. Springs situated in proximity to thickly populated districts are pecul- iarly liable to sudden contamination. N ^ r h t ° n 3 e 4 s 6 : The Electra Pure Water Co. Cent. 3241-W 2035 East 18th Street Cleveland, Ohio Page 20 Lesson 30.— SEWING ON BUTTONS.— Have button hole completed first, then measure exact place button is needed, and mark either with a pin or with tailor's chalk. Place button directly over mark or pin and bring up thread through holes of the buttons, leaving the thread moderately loose. When the button is securely sewed on wind the thread a few times around under the button and fasten well on the under side of the garment. Lesson 31. — LOOPS. — Fasten the thread well on the under side by several over and over stitches, draw through cloth and bring thread loosely down to exact length desired, repeat three or four times or until you have thickness consistent with the weight of goods you are working on. Then begin at the bottom of the threads and insert the needle under the loops and over the thread, allowing the eye of the needle to pass under first, continue till loop is covered, then fasten well on under side. Lesson 32. — DARNING. — The darning thread to be used depends entirely on the material to be darned, as it should match in color and quality, and in many in- stances a thread or ravelling drawn from the goods itself is preferable. Always begin a little beyond the worn places so your stitches will hold. Fasten your thread with the over and over stitch, and run your thread exactly along the lengthwise thread of the garment, then begin on the cross wise threads and run over and under the lengthwise threads altering the over and under stitch. In mending stockings a darning ball may be used, but in mending most materials, they should be basted on a flat surface, such as stiff paper or thin oil-cloth. HAVE YOU EVER INSPECTED OUR LARGE FURNITURE STORE? It Will Pay You to Do So Come in and examine our Furniture and Floor Coverings. Get acquainted with our stock and see the new things with which our store is filled. Let us show you what beautiful pieces can be had for little money. The Henke Furniture Co. 3001-3021 Lorain Ave., cor. W. 30th Page 21 »%&&%■■■ WTPrfiiTi?lIli-- Lesson 33. — Stoting. — Stoting is used on heavy goods, and on a rent or cut in a material which needs to be mended without darning or patching. A thread from the cloth is used and the stitch is begun back from the rent and the running stitch back and forth in a slanting line is taken until the tear has been closed. Lesson 34. — PATCHING. — If possible have your patch of the same ma- terial, and cut it so the weave comes exact with the place to be mended. Baste patch on wrong side of goods. On the right side cut out the worn or frayed part and make a small slit in each of the corners and turn down evenly the edges and sew down neatly on both sides of the garment. There are many materials such as rain-proof clothing or silk garments, or kid gloves, etc., that can be mended much better with the Havanco Mending Tissue than with needle and thread, and patches can be put on and repairs made on a moment's notice by adhering to the following directions: Brush all dust from garments, place piece of goods like garment under hole, leaving it a little larger than the hole. Cut piece of the Havanco tissue the size of the piece of goods and place it between the garment and the patch; lay a paper on cloth over all and press with a warm flatiron. Same directions for stockings, silk goods or other goods where part is worn thin and a patch required. Remember do not have the iron HOT. Re-seating or repairing knees of boys' pants, follow directions above for patches. Garments repaired with Havanco may be washed and ironed but not boiled. Heat is the only thing that will affect it. HAVANCO MENDING TISSUE The best thing for repairing bottoms of skirts and pants, also mending all kinds of rents in clothing, and useful for making many other kinds of repairs quickly and effectively. One piece each of White, Black and Brown to the package for . . Ten Cents For sale by druggists, dry goods and notion stores, or will send post paid upon the receipt of the price in stamps. THE HALL-VAN GORDER COMPANY 1382 West Ninth Street CLEVELAND, OHIO Page 22 Lesson 35.— OVERHAND PATCH.— Where the goods are heavy and not often washed, the overhand patch may be used. It is put on the same as the ordinary patch (see Lesson 34), except that the patch is overhanded on the right side and the underside neatly cut down to a good seam and pressed. Ackerman's Patent Ideal Faucet Syringe and Bath Spray ■j-i ! ■;■■ : The most wonderful improvement ever made in a syringe. Can be used for everything a fountain syringe is used for. It is entirely unlike the old style, clumsy fountain syringe, so long found inefficient and unsatisfactory. It is the most simple, convenient, sanitary, economical, perfect and effective syringe ever made; no cumbersome water bags to get out of order; always ready, will last a life time. You can get any desired pressure or flow of water, as there is no limit as to the supply of water. The operator can use a pint or a gallon without stopping and at any force desired, which is controlled by a valve, while the ordinary fountain syringe has not enough force to it to dis- lodge germs, whereas with the Ideal Faucet Syringe you can obtain any desired force. A lady, in washing off dirt from the porch, will use the lawn hose with such force as to drive everything before it. With this Ideal Faucet Syringe you can get the same results, if necessary, and the force of the stream can be regulated to suit the purpose for which it is used — from a drop of water at a time to a pressure of 50 pounds. The Ideal Patent Cup Attachment, which has a sponge in it, and when it is desired to use an antiseptic or san- ative treatment in con- nection with a douche, all that is required is to drop your medicine onto this Sponge in the cup, screw on cap and attach to end of rubber tube before putting on the spray and then screw on the vaginal pipe and the whole stream of water is medicated with the medicine. IDEAL FAUCET SYRINGE COMPANY 9601 Cedar Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio Page 23 Lesson 36.— BANDS AND FOLDS.— A true bias is obtained by folding the material with the straight edge of the top on the selvedge or straight lengthwise fold exactly, and cutting diagonally. Folds and bands are used considerably on tailored suits, as they make a very neat trimming, and are easily made. Cut your bias strips the desired width and join the diagonal ends, and then turn under the edges of the fold and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. When the fold is lined, the canvas is basted in and the edges of the fold fastened down with the catch stitch. Lesson 37. — DOUBLE FOLD. — Take your bias band twice the desired width and fold so the edges come exactly together. Baste and sew on either by machine or by hand. Lesson 38.— MILLINER'S FOLD.— Cut your bias bands two and one-half times the width desired. Fold over the top edge, make a narrow turn up of the bottom edge and bring it up to cover the edge turned down. Lesson 39. — PIPING. — Piping is made of bias strips folded in the center, and basted at an exactly even depth under the fold, allowing only the edge of the bias strip to emerge. The piping may be lined or unlined. N.B. — Ask your dealer for the W. & N. piping, which is beautifully made and ready for use. Lesson 40. — CORDING.— Cut the bias strips twice as wide as desired. Hold the cord so it cannot become twisted and place in the exact center of the fold, turn down the fold and sew neatly just below the cord. Lesson 41. — SEAMS. — Seams can be joined by machine stitching, chain stitch, running stitch, or back stitch or the edge when of material that does not fray can be left raw or pinked, or they may be protected in various manners, such as binding or overhanding the raw edges, or by making the felled or French seams. On heavy goods that do not ravel or fray out to press back the edge of the seam, and stitch on either side gives a very good finish, and is an easy manner of disposing of the tailored seams, but the stitching must be very straight and very even. Great care must be taken that the stitches are not too fine on tailored seams, and silk thread should always be used to join the seams of a garment made of wool goods. Lesson 42. — FELLED SEAM. — Sew up the seam in any of the ordinary ways described in the preceding lesson. Trim the under edge narrower than the outer. With a narrow turning fold the broad edge over the narrow edge of the seam and hem either by hand or on machine. Cent. 4679 K Tables fnr Ladies Griffiths Restaurant 1022-1028 Prospect Avenue CLEVELAND, 0. Try Our Home-like Baking QUALITY HAS BEEN OUR SUCCESS DRINK SENORA Always the Same Good COFFEE Page 24 BELLE VERNON MILK the Best Milk Lesson 43.— THE BOUND SEAM.— The proper material for binding the edges of seams is bias bands of silk, linen or cotton, or W. & N. binding. The edges of the goods to be bound should be evenly trimmed and the binding basted on the edges. The W. & N. binding turns itself so all you need to do is to fasten the binding on by hand or sew it down with machine. Lesson 44. — STRAP SEAM. — Cut either bias or crosswise strips and turn under both edges and stitch over a plain seam. Lesson 45. — WELT SEAM. — -Make a plain seam leaving one edge wide and one edge narrow. Turn back the wide fold and baste down the narrow edge and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. Lesson 46. — LAPPED SEAM. — A lap seam is as its name implies one seam lapping over another. Stitch near the edge of the upper lap and again one-half inch back. This is one of the simplest manners in which to dispose of a tailored seam. Lesson 47.— THE FRENCH SEAM.— Sew the seam by machine, or running stitch on the right side of the garment. Trim evenly and narrowly, turn garment and sew on wrong side taking seam of depth to entirely inclose the first seam. Lesson 48. — HEMMING. — Hems are made by turning the edge of the ma- terial twice in any suitable depth and the fold fastened down with the slant stitch or by hemstitching or in some instances the plain running stitch, while in others a hem is joined to a lace or embroidery insertion by what is called a roll hem. For the ordinary hem begin by making a narrow turning, yet deep enough so the turning includes all the edges. Then cut a strip of heavy paper or notch a piece of card board the exact depth you desire your hem and use this paper or card board for a marker, for your hem must be turned exactly even. Baste down then hem with slant stitch (see Lesson S), or hemstitch (see Lesson 17). Much time is saved however, when hemming can be done on the machine as it saves the measuring and basting. Lesson 49.— TO HEM CORNERS.— To hem square corners, turn under exactly as for an ordinary hem, and cut out the underlying corners, leaving just room enough to catch the stitches nicely. Catch the overlap of the corners of the hem to the underlap, being careful the stitches do not show through on the right side, and overhand the end, or after turning the edges for the hem fold toward the center, and cut the material in the fold and hem the bias edges. Lesson 50. — DAMASK HEM. — Table linen can be very neatly hemmed by using the damask hem. It is very simple. Turn as for an ordinary hem. Fold back the linen at the crease of the first fold of the hem and overcast with very fine stitches. When finished take a moderately hot iron and press down the hem on the right side. Lesson 51. — ROLLED HEM. — Is used for setting in insertion. Hold wrong side of goods toward you and turn neatly and begin at the right and sew insertion and material together with the slant stitch. (See Lesson 5.) Page 25 Lesson 52. — GATHERING.— Divide your goods into two or four even spaces, make a rather heavy knot and use the simple running stitch, then draw goods on gathering string into exact position desired. Lesson 53. — FACINGS. — Use a bias band, tape, embroidery, or on a straight seam, a piece of goods cut either across or down the weave of the goods will do. Place the right side of the facing against the right side of the goods and sew firmly with machine or by running stitch. Turn and sew down either with machine or with slant stitch. Embroidery or lace may be used for facing on some articles by following the suggestion of cut — which is done in the same way as the ordinary facing. Facing of lace or embroidery around the neck or arm hole of sleeves is sometimes put on the right side making a trimming or finish. In this instance the edge of the embroidery or lace must be heavy enough to entirely cover the edge of the material of the garment, or the work will not look neat. In underwear the W. & N. bias tape is most useful in innumerable instances. Lesson 54. — TUCKS. — A first class sewing machine is provided with a tucker that can be gauged for any size tuck you desire, so it is not necessary to baste in your tucks after a little practice on your machine. But to make tucks by hand you must make a marker and fold exactly on the line and sew down carefully either by machine or with running stitch. Always draw the ends of the threads through to the underside of the garment and tie care- fully. Where lace or embroidery must be joined in tucks sew the cloth so the seam will come in the fold of and under the tuck. N. B. The White Sewing Machine is provided with a tucker with which you can easily both regulate your tucks and the space between the tucks. Pleats are made the same as tucks, only you must always baste down your pleats, lay a damp cloth over them and press so they will keep their fold nice- ly, but all accordion pleating, side pleat- ing and sunburst pleating must be done at a pleating establishment, unless you have a pleating machine of your own. Lesson 55.— SHIRRING.— Is simply from two to as many rows of gather- ing as desired. On most materials it can be done as successfully on the sewing machine as by hand and very much quicker. Lesson 56.— RUFFLES. — Ruffles may be made of straight or bias goods, of embroidery, lace, chiffon or any sheer materials. If the ruffle is to be made of goods without a finished edge the edge must be neatly hemmed PL E ATI N G Accordeon Pleating and Side Pleating made in the newest effects for Party Costumes, House Gowns, Dancing Frocks, Maternity Dresses, Dressing Sacques, Fancy Waists, Street Dresses, Children's Dresses, Etc. And many styles of Pleat - ings for Trimmings of Dresses, Waists, Hats, Muffs, Neck- wear, Etc. Art Pleating Shop 438 Old Arcade Cleveland Page 26 Moth 71. fL-J^y^-* Stomach & Liver Pills ZOA-FHORA CO.. Props.. KALAMAZOO, MICH. PRICE, - 25 CENTS. ZOA-PHORA STOMACH AND LIVER PILLS The Scientific and Effectual Remedy for Biliousness, Headache, and all Disorders Arising from a Sluggish Liver and Im- perfect Digestion. When the food is not being properly digested and the Liver refuses to work and the whole system becomes clog- ged with poison and you need a good, quick, gentle cathartic RememberZOA-PHORA Stomach and Liver Pills have been used for over half a century with most gratifying results. For habitual Constipation and Bowel Trouble use the ZOA-PHORA Anti-Constipation Pills. For sale at all first-class druggists. See page 96 for partial list. (see Lesson 48), and if desired an edging may be sewed on either by machine or neatly overhanded (see Lesson 6). The ruffle is attached to the garment either by gathering (see Lesson 52), to the necessary fullness and by placing the right side of the material and ruffle together and sewing firmly, or the ruffle may be sewed on the right side and covered with a bias band, or with a piece of the W. & N. bias tape. Or again the ruffle may be inserted in the hem by plac- ing the right side of the garment and the ruffle together and turn hem back to the wrong side of the garment, make a second turning and hem. In very fine work a ruffle of lace or embroidery may be put on with the whip stitch (see Lesson 6), which is done exactly as overcasting. Lesson 57.— SEWING ON LACE OR EMBROIDERY.— If the lace or embroidery is to be put on by hand, put the right side of the lace to the right side of the material and overhand. If the machine is to be used put the edge of the wrong side of the lace or embroidery to the edge of the right side of the hem and stitch. N. B. — The White Sewing Machine has an attachment wherewith the hemming is done and the lace or embroidery sewed on with one operation. Lesson 58.— SETTING IN LACE OR EMBROIDERY.— Baste the lace or embroidery on the right side in the exact position desired. Cut out goods leaving enough only for a narrow hem. Carefully baste down hem over edge of insertion, and stitch on right side, taking pains to catch through the narrow hem on the underside. Or the lace or embroidery may be set in by using the roll hem. (See Lesson 48). Lesson 59.— SEWING ON HOOKS AND EYES. On page 32, you will find a cut of the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye, which we recommend for skirts, waists, dresses, undergarments, belts, chil- dren's garments or any purpose, where hooks and eyes, snap fasteners or buttons can be used. The Wilson Dress Hook and Eye is easy to hook and unhook, and cannot rust. They are flat and invisible and never slip open as so often happens with the ordinary hook and eye. To sew on, sew hook where an ordinary hook or buttonhole would be placed, turn hollow side Page 27 toward the cloth and the straight edge toward edge of cloth, and sew the eye where an ordinary eye or button would have been placed. The stitch used is simply sewing over and over through the small round holes of the hook and eye, as are the ordinary hook and fastener. Lesson 60.— PUTTING IN STAYS AND COLLAR SUPPORTS. The Warren Feather Bone for stays or collar supports can be stitched by machine into the lining of the article to be boned, but a more attractive way is to use the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). However, in the most elaborate gowns, as well as in the simplest, many prefer to use the feather stitch (see Lesson 18), which gives the inside of the boned' article a very pretty finish, besides being a substantial stitch to hold the boning secure. Lesson 61.— MARKING OF LINEN UNDERWEAR. Every garment and piece of linen in your home should be marked. The gauze, fleeze lined and woolen underwear, the hosiery, aprons and children's clothes, in fact all laundered garments should be marked with the name or at least the initial of the member of the family to whom the article belongs. This is very quickly and easily done, by procuring the Reis woven names, or the Reis woven initials made on woven tape which can be neatly overcasted on the inside of the garment. Men's shirts should be marked with an embroidered initial just above cuff. Linen, lingerie and handkerchiefs beautifully monogrammed or with care- fully embroidered initials form the distinctive mark which lends dignity to the plainest articles. The Reis foundation washable letters or the Reis initial medallions should always be used, for they are perfect and durable and will stand the boiling and ironing of the laundry without being damaged in the least. You can get these letters or monograms in nearly any shade or style and all you need to do is to baste them on your fabrics and work over them with your embroidery cotton or silk. What Phora won't do for WOMANKIND no medicine will. MARK YOUR GARMENTS WITH REIS' WOVEN NAMES a Vonr garments should hear your name. It saves annoyance, prevents loss by laundries and hotels, ami will identify you in case of accident, REIS' NAMES come in si i jj, s ami are easily cut apart anil .sewn to an garment. They never wear out, REIS' WOVEN NAMES are machine woven <>n good quality white "a m hi ic tape in either red, navy, light hlue ..i Mark and can he had in several different style letters. $2.00 for 144 Names $1.25 for 72 Names REIS' ENGRAVED NAMES Printed from Engraved Plate-, in Black on fine t'anilin.- Tape: 100 Names for $1.25 200 IV arr-.es for $1.75 If your dry p><AMY "Where things are as represented" A GREAT STORE 5"flK3 ALWAYS BUSY Prices Always as Low or Lower Than Elsewhere Dry Goods, Ready-to-Wear, Rugs, Etc. West 25th, Opposite New Market Page 44 Lesson 66.— HIGH COLLARS. - 1 — Cut out (Lesson 76). 2 — Turn in seams around entire collar sufficient to hide lining, which should be of cambric if lining is necessary for the material which you are using. 3 — Hem down with slant stitch, taking care the stitches do not show through. 4 — Sew on all trimmings and ornaments. 5 — Sew on hooks and eyes (Lesson 59). 6 — Sew in collar supports (Lesson 60). Lesson 67.— TAILORED COLLARS. A perfect cut of tailored collars is shown in the above figure. The tailored collars are rather difficult to make unless you are experienced in tailoring, so it is best to buy the under collars ready made, but if you wish to try to make them yourself the following instructions should be followed: 1. Cut out exactly after pattern. 2. Baste in soft pliable French canvas after you have carefully shrunk it, cutting it out the seam's width from the edges, for the canvas cannot be sewed in the seam with the lining without making it a little bunglesome. 3. Catch the edges of the canvas to the cloth with the catch stitch (see Lesson 11), so the canvas will keep .in its proper place. 4. Lay right side of goods to right side of lining and baste, being careful to keep the goods and the canvas and the lining always perfectly smooth. 5. Sew around the bottom edge and the sides and turn right side out. 6. Press very carefully. 7. Sew on trimming. 8. Press again. 9. Attach lining of collar to right side of garment and sew down by machine. 10. Then bring the outside material of collar neatly and smoothly down, turning under the edge and carefully overcast (see Lesson 6), taking great pains that your stitches do not show any more than you can help and that you have entirely covered the seam of the underpart of the collar and that you have kept an even line. Large stitches and an uneven turn of the material of the collar would ruin the appearance of the most beautiful suit. "Tailor - Made Coat Collars" //-^^\ -^i ^hia is a regular Tailor-Notch /ff.-JJ^C? A Collar, designed by Mr. Grean for /i'/""" /A those who find it difficult to shape < ,' *J'f /'-'<> an< ^ ma ke the under-collar. It is ' . r'/x'f /jVA/ . not necessary any more to make i 'C-'/y < \f'i 1 / '\ collars of cloth to match on the /'; /.'/] / v/m ' \ underpart. Men's coats are never / ; ,--V/ ■ ,' W"-"^ ' * made so, and invariably made in / , •■ '. "-- ' \ either black or grey cloth. ' \ \ i /' ' \ You will find Orean Tailor Made Coat Collars i \ 1 ' ' ' beautifully shaped and pressed. Accept no \ * ,' imitations or substitutes. If you cannot \ -- obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite \ . ,' dealer's, write us. We will supply you di- \ ' | e_ rect or through a reliable dealer and send vl 13C you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company 327-329 East 34th Street, New York l)i Is \ > \ St N (// // f < xxl ' ' 1(1 // r / j (/ ' l )/ AVr/V/ ' ' )/ / r r i Jf ' // - This style is a i/ Z5c Shawl Collar Page 45 YOUR CHARACTER SKETCH SCIENTIFICALLY GIVEN By the Expert and Noted Character Readers of the Acme College of Science Est. 1899 — Incorporated under the laws of Ohio 1907 Your abilities, capacities, business, social and domestic qualities perfectly defined and your physical condition correctly diagnosed. Your character sketch as above stated and any three personal questions scientifically and perfectly answered by mail. Price $1.00. Strictly confidential. The Acme College of Science 1714 Adams St., Toledo, Ohio The only incorporated College of its kind in America. Our students and satisfied patrons are found throughout the United States and Europe. Lesson 68.— TURN DOWN COLLARS. 1 — Cut out (Lesson 76). 2 — If stiffening is necessary use only cambric or the finest, softest, most pliable French canvas and baste it smoothly on the wrong side of the material. 3 — If lined turn right of lining to right of collar, and stitch at outer edge. 4 — If collar is to attach to gar- ment turn right side of top edge of collar to right side of garment and stitch. 5 — Turn under side of edge of collar and hem down neatly to cover seam. 6 — If collar is to be left separate turn inside edges and neatly stitch or sew down by hand, using the fine running stitch (Lesson 20), or the slant stitch (Lesson 5). Page 46 PATENTED SHOULDER FORMS Shoulder Forms are used not for disfigured shoulders, but for garments where a permanent and a good shoulder fit is desired. They add a perfect outline to all shoulders; thin, pliable, not noticeable, inside the coat. They are basted to canvas and you wA\ save a number of hours of alterations, if you will begin to fit by first placing the shoulder form in suchposition as you would like to have your coat appear. 15c Per Pair Shoulder forms are made in different outlines, High, Straight, and Sloping. Some are padded, and some are not, and fitters must use their judgment, as to what to use. Mr. Grean has de- signed special shoulder forms for different weight of garments ; from the lightest weight silk and taffeta, to the heaviest automobile and fur garments. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. 327-329 East 34th St., New York Lesson 69.— SLEEVES. See Cutting Guide, page 51, and Construction Guide, page 54. Many beginners think sleeves are the hardest part of the garment to put together, but much of the difficulty is removed if proper care is taken in ob- serving the directions and in- structions and paying strict at- tention to the notches. 1 — Cut out. (Lesson 76). 2 — Baste up seams. Try on and if necessary make al- terations. (Lesson 77). 3 — Sew up seams on ma- chine and press. 4 — Hem, (Lesson 48), or face, (Lesson 53), the bottom of the sleeve or cuff. 5 — For No. 1 and 3, gather at the bottom of sleeve. 6 — Find the notch where the fullness begins in the sleeve and turning the right of the sleeve to the right of the cuff tack to the notch in the cuff where the fullness starts, and tack again where the full- ness ends, being most careful to have the notches come exactly together. 7 — Baste together cuff and sleeve and sew in securely on machine. 8 — Gather top of sleeve between exact notches. 9 — Attach where notches of waist designate. 10 — Sew in securely on machine. Lesson 70.— SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE.— Follow instructions (Lesson 69). except the opening of the sleeve where cuff is attached must be faced back. The ordinary lap closing is made the same as the lap pocket. 1- — Take a straight strip of the material, lay right side against right side of goods. 2 — Baste down evenly and sew on machine. 3 — Turn in edges of other side. 4 — Baste to cover seam and sew either by hand or on machine. Page 47 Lesson 71.— LAP CLOSING. The lap closing as seen in sleeve No. 3. 1 — Cut two straight strips. 2— For underlap put right side of strip to right side of sleeve and stitch. 3 — Turn back and stitch by machine on both sides of strips. • 4 — For upper lap sew on in same manner, turning the top of the strip either with perfectly square corners or in a neat V shape. CUFFS— PLAIN BAND. The cuffs belonging to the sleeves are sometimes a little awkward for the beginner, but a few suggestions mill make it plain just how to make them.— The plain Band Cuffs are put on the same as 6 and 7 of Lesson 69, but instead of facing, the bands are cut double width and turned back and hemmed over the seam which joins cuff and sleeve. CUFF— (Shirt Waist). They are completed before attaching to sleeve. 1 — Cut out exactly after pattern. 2 — If lined turn right side of lining to right side of goods and stitch sides and bottom of cuff. 3 — Turn right side out and stitch again at the very edge of the cuff. 4 — Attach as step 6 (Lesson 69), or you may — 5 — Attach sleeve to lining of the cuff and turn back right edge of cuff and stitch to cover seam. The latter is much neater and gives a more tailored finish than when the top piece of the cuff is sewed into the seam. TURN BACK CUFF. Make exactly the same as for shirt waist cuff, except your cuffs are either made of double length to turn back or are attached at the bottom of the cuffs instead of at the top. Lesson 72. — COAT SLEEVE. — The coat sleeve is much simpler as steps six and seven are omitted. The coat sleeve is made exactly according to instructions of Lesson 69, except that the top of the flat coat sleeve, which is so much in vogue now, requires a little soft foundation. For this purpose the sleeve roll of the Grean Dressmaking Specialties will be found very useful. Baste inside of the sleeve, but outside of seam. Stitch your goods well over it, and put on edge of pressing board, put damp cloth over and hold down firmly until you have pressed out all the superfluous fullness. If the material is soft you can press out more of the fullness than if the material is hard or harsh. COMBINATION AR1VI PAD This Combination Arm Pad, is an article used always by all fitters that have ever tried it. It is very simple in construction, designed for the purpose of filling and correcting the general hollow parts between the Arm Hole and the Bust. If your dealer cannot supply you, write us and we will either fill your order or direct you to a reliable merchant. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co., 327-329 E. 34th St., New York is c Page 48 Lesson 73.— POCKETS. The patch pocket, as seen in Lessons 87 and 107, is very simple to make. Hem tops and turn in bottom and both sides and stitch on garment. Sewing Apron pockets are made in the same way, except that their outer edge is usually joined in the facing or with the seam of the ruffle. The lap pocket as shown in the figure of the coat in Lesson 96, is the only one very much in evidence these days. The lap must be cut on an exact grain of the goods and should be lined with silk or some light material. The pocket should be of heavy mercerized goods made into a pouch the desired depth. Back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment and stitch on the lap. To keep the slit from tearing into the cloth, it should be fastened as follows: Measure one-eighth inch above and one-eighth below the slit and mark. Then draw your thread from the top mark in a straight line to the bottom mark and back again on the opposite side of the goods. Repeat this process until you have firmly secured the slit— then bring the thread through and work over and over, letting the needle pass through the entire thickness of threads from the bottom mark to the top. After a row of stitching has been made at the bottom and both sides of the lap, back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment, and stitch on the lap. Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy (Formerly Dr. Pengelly's Sure Shot) FOR Colds, Cough, SoreThroat, Croup and Protection Against Pneumonia An old proverb says: "Never neglect a fresh cold if you would avoid sickness." More suffering comes from neglected colds than from all other causes. A speedy and safe cure is invaluable. Such you have in Zoa-Phora Cold Cure. A NEGLECTED COLD.— Persons suffering thus are martyrs to every change of weather. The most trifling exposure renews the at- tack, rendering the disease still more difficult to treat, and at the same time increasing the severity of the usual symptoms, viz.: Sneezing, blurred eyes, dullness of hearing and smell, tightness at the root of the nose, cough, headache, pain in the temples, brow or cheek, sore throat or nostrils, etc. ZOA-PHORA COLD REMEDY improves the sight and hearing- Its most remarkable effect is the clearing of the head, throat, and_ re- storing the impaired voice. It does not operate on the douche principle of merely drying up and washing out the secretions, but restores the parts to healthy action. Zoa-Phora La Grippe Remedy Since the first invasion of the disease known as LaGrippe in this country, Dr. Pen- tiilly had been a careful student of its nature, symptoms, and results. These investi- gations, together with the use of certain remedies in the treatment of the disease, convinced the Doctor that LaGrippe was (from whatever inducing cause) a sudden and general congestion attacking more or less the whole system, hut showing its greater force on the weaker parts. From these deductions. Dr. Pengelly was led to formulate the now justly famous ZOA-PHORA LaGRIPPE REMEDY, which treatment, if taken promptly on the first signs of the disease— known by aching of the head, back and limbs sometimes with chilly sensations and nausea— will almost invariably meet and control the disease, thus preventing a tedious and perhaps dangerous illness. Price 50c per bottle The Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy and the Zoa-Phora LaGrippe Remedy are for sale at 50c per bottle at alllfirst-class drug stores. For partial list see page 96 of this book. Page 49 Shino Dust Absorbing Articles Reduces the Labor of Dusting and Polishing One-half. Shino articles, as the result of a marvelous chemical process, attract dust, lint and germs, just as a magnet attracts steel. When filled with dust, rinsing in warm water makes them good as new. The Shino Chemical Dust Cloth. The Shino Chemical Dust Mop. The Shino Chemical Broom Cover. The Shino Chemical Mitten Duster. The Shino Chemical Floor Polisher. The Shino Chemical Handle Duster. The Simplex Mop Handle. Sold by all good dealers, or sent postpaid by the manufacturers. r»l| f*. Ail 4" f* 522 ° Sweeney Ave. Ine rioneerMrg. to. Cleveland, Ohio CHAPTER VIII. Lesson 74.— SPONGING AND SHRINKING. Wool goods should nearly always be sponged and shrunken as should ginghams and linens. Wool goods should be laid right side down and a wet ironing sheet placed over it and ironed until it is perfectly dry. Repeat at least once, but twice is better. This is a slow process, but your goods will stay fresh and in shape long enough to pay for your trouble. Ginghams and linens should be dipped in water in which has been placed a handful of salt, wring out and then press until dry. Very thin goods should not be sponged or shrunken, especially anything with a mesh. Sponging not only helps your garment to hold its shape better, but prevents its spotting and wrinkling so much. Lesson 75.— PRESSING. An electric flatiron is a great advantage to the woman doing her own dressmaking, but in case one is not at hand one must always, especially in making a wool garment, have a hot flat iron conveniently near. Much of the beauty of a gown depends upon its pressing, for a good presser can straighten out a multitude of little defects in sewing and stitching, while a poor presser can make the most carefully put together garment look badly. If you are not good at pressing it would be best to baste back your seams in their exact place until you get more accustomed to pressing them in place. Always have a good piece of cotton long enough to cover the entire seam. Dampen and iron till the cloth is perfectly dry then dampen once again and repeat the pressing, always remembering it is almost impossible to put too much good press work on a garment. In pressing folds always see that the fold is perfectly straight, and in pressing sleeves one should shrink considerable of the fulness that is apt to occur on the inside seam of the arm at the elbow. Page 50 Main 2189 For prices on any Sewing Machine or Supplies PHONE or CALL on SEWING MACHINE SUPPLIES AND REPAIRS BRYSON CO., 823 Superior N. E. Central 2259-L Expert Repairer will Call and Give Estimate Lesson 76.— CUTTING GUIDE. By courtesy of the Pictorial Review Co. we show their patent cutting guide. One accompanies every Pictorial Review pattern. It shows just how to lay out the pattern on the goods correctly and scientifically, just as an expert would lay it out in order to cut it from the least possible material. CUTTING GUIDE 4-4/0 SIDE 6ftCK C^ POLO OP 36 INCH MflTERIflL WITH NAP BflO No puzzling for hours to find how to lay out the pattern properly, and no mistakes. Mistakes are impossible with this guide before you. There is absolutely no chance of cutting one piece the wrong way of the goods. No chance of cutting two backs or two fronts because a careless folder picked up two pieces instead of one. No chance of wasting an inch of material CUTTING GUIDE 4069 FOLD OF 54 INCH MATERIAL WITHOUT NAP' more than you need. Pictorial Review Patterns are error proof and with their cutting guide a child can lay out and cut a garment as well as an expert. CUTTING. 1 — Before beginning see that you have every thing necessary to go ahead. (See Department 6). Page 51 2 — Provide yourself with a good paper pattern for your size and suitable to your style, height and individuality, and one chosen with due regard for the material to be made up and for the occasion of the wearing of the garment. Do not make the mistake of buying a pattern a size too large or a size too small, but get your own size otherwise the entire proportion of your garment is thrown out when you start to make alterations. Main-2371-J C— 6417 ar=H r=]G "N r £ The Mandarin \ No. 622 Prospect Avenue ^n i — i i =ir=i i==i r=i i= ir^=: it=H Cleveland's Finest and Most Elaborate Chinese-American Cafe Shoppers' Novelty Luncheon FROM 11 A.M. to 2 P.M. After Theatre Parties a Specialty Private Dining Rooms Reserved for Dinner Parties Special Attention Given Ladies without Escorts Our Kitchen is Open for Inspection to Patrons from 11:30 A. M. to 2 P. M. Page 52 3 — If your goods are wool or gingham or such as need attention follow directions (see Lesson 74), for preparation. 4 — Iron out every piece of your pattern and identify each section and if there is any doubt in your mind compare it with the similar piece on the construction guide, until you have made sure what it is and where it belongs. 5 — If the garment has a lining cut the lining out first, baste it up and make all necessary alterations of the pattern (Lesson 77), and fit it perfectly before cutting into the dress goods. 6 — Follow exactly the construction guide for laying on your pattern which you have altered to fit your figure. See that every piece is on precisely the right angle of your material as designated on the construction guide, and if your goods have a nap very strict attention must be given that the grain or nap lie in the same direction. The nap should always rub down except velvet, fur or plush, then it should rub up. Striped or plaid materials must be per- fectly matched so the strips run into the seams on the same angle. If the goods are flowered or have a design see that it all runs in the same direction. 7 — When the width of the goods will permit lay the pattern on the double fold. 8 — Pin down the pattern, being most careful to have it perfectly flat and no wrinkles in either pattern or goods. 9 — When absolutely sure every piece is properly laid on cut out with very sharp shears so the goods are not frayed or haggled and under no circumstances fail to cut out every notch indicated on the pattern. 10 — Then with tailor's chalk or with a colored cotton thread run a line showing all the marks and perforations of the pattern. This is of vital im- portance to the success of your garment, and will save you many possible errors. 11 — Then proceed to baste together as directed in Lesson 77, and ac- cording to the construction guide, which is furnished free with every Pictorial Review pattern. A RELIABLE STORE The Boston Dry Goods Co. 8813-17 Wade Park Avenue Cleveland 13592 Euclid Avenue .-,. 8601 Detroit Avenue UnlO 14712 Detroit Avenue LakeWOOd, Ohio Selling Merchandise that bears the Stamp of Quality, at prices that are no more and often less than elsewhere Good Values Courtesy Progressiveness Page S3 "VOTES FOR WOMEN " are not so necessary as »» 44 LOTS FOR WOMEN Many of them are buying Home Sites in BEACH GROVE where all improvements are being installed and homes erected. #100 down and $10 month buys a lot 40x125 for $750. Take Euclid Beach Car to Beach Grove on Lake Shore Boulevard; get off at East 152nd St. The" ONELLY 120, 121, 122 Williamson Bldg. Main 5283 Ground Floor Cen. 2044 Greanet Invisible Waist Foundations Are used in making light weight lace or chiffon waists where a t ght-fitting lining would be out of place, specially for the sum- mer or for warm climates. It is made with a wide, beau- tifully shaped seamless belt, boned, which protrude above the belting and are finished with hooks and eyes, according to waist measure, This is the new Grean System of Fitting, to be guided by the waist and not by the bust, and the upper part of coarse Net which forms just the right kind of a foundation for light waists. These are made in Black and White. If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite dealers, write us. We will supply you direct, or through a reliable dealer. Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co., 327-329 East 34th Street, New York Lesson 77.— CONSTRUCTION, FITTING AND ALTERATION. In the making of waists, hours of time, work and worry can be avoided by procuring the Grean Fitted Waist Linings and Foundations as it saves all of the labor of cutting basting, boning, putting on the hooks and eyes, etc., and needs to be fitted only by adjusting the seams above the boned portions and on the shoulders. But if you decide to make your own lining or founda- tion the following directions must be carefully followed. Do not attempt to put your garment together without this construction guide, or the one accompanying your pattern, constantly before you — for it CONSTRUCTION GUIDE 44JQ SLEEVE SECTIONS 'SIDE BACK C will show you plainly which pieces to join together and just where to join them. Always see that the notches correspond and that the seams are taken up on exactly the line shown and that each portion of your goods is in ar- Page 54 Have rpT?T T TIVT/^'C 1 French - American EEd lULLllMjiS ICECREAM? CONSTRUCTION GUIDE4069 cordance with the diagram of your construction guide. The greatest of care should be taken in the basting up of the seams of your garment, for the effect lies in perfect lines and it is impossible to obtain these without good basting. If the garment has a lining, cut it out, put it together and fit it, and make all necessary alterations before cutting into the dress goods. See cut 4410, For Unlined Waists and Dresses USE Grean Shaped Seamless, Boned Girdle Form Made of wide herringbone belting Finished with hooks and eyes r 35c at Your Dealer Sizes 22 to 33 inclusive Waist Measure, Black or White ^.«e A SCREW DRIVER... is a very handy tool to have around, but naturally, you don't care to use it unneces- sarily, for it takes time. With a great many Rotary machines in order to remove the Shut- tle one has to use a screw driver and take out three screws, but with the White you simply raise a latch. It's another time saver which the busy operator will surely appreciate. Don't forget it! The White Rotary means more to you in a sewing way than you can think. We shall be glad to demonstrate it at any time. BOTH PHONES White Sewing Machine Co. 426 Prospect Ave. Page 55 Dr. Margaret B. Monks Osteopathic Physician 302 Lennox Building Treatments by Appoin tmen t Res. Bell South 188-L Off. Bell Main 3938 Central 7273 -W Painless Dentistry Prices Reasonable T c. MILLER DENTIST Between the Square an dW. 3rd St. 226 Superior Ave. N.W. Next to Collister &Sa yle CLEVELAND. OHIO for the diagram of the proper fitting, and in the diagrams of the construc- tion guide you will be able to as- certain just the place to make altera- tions. To lengthen waist lining at the waist line. — Cut across where per- forations indicate, and insert a piece the exact width of the shortage, fol- lowing the lines of the pattern so a perfect outline is kept. To lengthen over bust. — If a nar- rower shoulder seam does not make a perfect fit, cut across half way between bottom of arm hole and shoulder seam and insert piece to give desired length. If waist is too long. — Take up a seam on perforated lines. If too long over the bust. — Do not take the extra length up on the shoulders, as in this way the arm- hole is made too tight, and the neck too high. Take up a seam of the necessary width on line above the bust, half way between the shoulder seam and the bottom of the arm hole. If the neck or armholes are too large. — Take up on the shoulder seam. If the armholes are too small. — -Let out shoulder seam, or if necessary cut away very carefully. The sleeve pattern must be lengthened by an inserted piece or shortened with a tuck at the thick part of the arm and just below the elbow. If pattern is too large around the figure, take up in under arm seam and shoulder seam. If pattern is too small, let out under arm seams and shoulder seams. To alter for round shoulders. — Insert a piece in the lining two inches be- low the arm hole carrying a perfect upward line with the pattern, for care must be taken not to increase the width of the back pieces. 4410 Page 56 To alter for very straight figures. — Take up a seam, the necessary width, two inches below the lower line of the arm hole. To alter for Square or Sloping Shoulders.- — If garment wrinkles, between shoulders or across chest or at neck or armhole, alterations must be made from the shoulder seams and arm hole. Skirts must be altered in the seams, and its length adjusted from the bottom or six inches below the hips, being careful to keep a perfect seam line. To take up skirt at waist. — Begin six inches below the waist line and increase seam gradually until the correct size is obtained about the waist. Or if skirt must be enlarged at waist. — Begin at the same point six inches below the waist and decrease the size of the seam. Care must always be taken not to take too large a seam across the hips, for if too tight the skirt will wrinkle and draw. If the hips are too large. — Begin six inches below the hip line and gradu- ally take up the seam, until you have a perfect fit. If the hips are too small. — Begin six inches below the hip line and de- crease the width of the seam. To alter for large abdomen. — Begin six inches below the waist line, at the hip line of the front and side gores, and let out gradually the seams the de- sired width, extending each gore an inch at the top. Increase also the side edges of the gores, and gradually slant to meet the side back seams, but do not alter any seams to remedy this trouble, except the front and the front edges of the side gore seams. Fpr flat backs. — Begin six inches below the waist line of the back seams, and alter, remembering, however, that it is better to take up as much of the fullness as possible, and fill in the hollow of the back by a hygenic and sanitary pad, than to alter the back of the skirt any more than absolutely necessary. After you have properly cut and fit and altered the lining of the waist and carefully measured and adjusted the pattern of your skirt, you will then be ready to cut into your dress goods, and the same general instructions apply, but before the outside material is cut into you must know that your pattern and lining are both altered exactly right. Then follow the specific instruc- tions of the lesson, which you are following in making the garment in hand and you cannot fail to have a well fitting, well made gown. The same general instructions of careful work and perfect fitting and correct alterations apply to the making of all garments. Gymnasium Open Oct. 1 to June 1 Systematic Exercise and Recreation Turkish, Electric Light and Shower Baths Massage Apply to the Young Women's Christian Association Prospect Avenue and 18th Cleveland, Ohio West Side Branch Franklin and W. 32nd Broadway Branch Broadway and Hollister St. Summer Camp Open July 1 to Sept. 1 Boating Bathing Out of Door Life Rest Lake Grove Farm Madison, Ohio Page 57 CHAPTER XII. THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. The well groomed woman is one who exhibits cleanliness, neatness, harmony and appropriateness of dress. She always has her hair neatly and becomingly dressed — her gloves, handkerchiefs and neckwear and all her fineries are immaculately clean and no rips, tears or spots are ever visible and no hooks, eyes or buttons ever missing and her shoes are always clean or shined. Her skirts always hang evenly and her belt never is out of place and above all her collar is always in perfect position and neatly fastened either with fancy pins or with invisible fasteners. The well groomed woman's clothes are never loud or conspicuous and the colors always harmonize not only with the occasion for wearing, but with her individuality and style. If she is inclined to be stout she does not wear plaids or reds or pinks or any of the colors or materials suitable only for slight, fairy-like figures and a painfully thin woman does not show good teste in wearing stripes and such combinations as are supposed to be worn only by women desiring to reduce the appearance of their size. In fact the well groomed woman studies herself, and gowns herself to express an innate sense of refinement and good taste, together with an appreciation of the appropriate and the beautiful. SCIENTIFIC BEAUTY CULTURE. Scientific beauty culture means bodily and scientific — that is, the wisest — care or culture of that beauty which Mother Nature gave to everyone, more or less, at birth. It is our duty to ourself as well as to others to be all that is bright and healthy and beautiful. We cannot be this if our livers are out of order and our complexion anything but what we would wish — open pores, skin dry and LOOK OLD? Wrinkles are only skin deep. These unsightly, telling marks of time, which make the face look old and cross are unnecessary — remove them with the B. & P. Wrinkle Eradicators Simple, certain, safe, contains no chemicals, leaves no marks. The skin can be made smooth, the wrinkles erased and the beauty greatly increased by the nightly application of these well known B. & P. Wrinkle Erad- icators. FROWNERS are for the lines between the eyes. Both are put up in 25c, 50c and S1.00 boxes, including booklet on care of face. Sold at drug and department stores. If your dealer cannot supply you we will send by mail, postpaid, on receipt of price. 1790 East 68th Street Cleveland, Ohio B. & P. CO. (Two Women) Frank Dowd DENTIST Crown and Bridgework a Specialty Seventh Floor, Schofield Bldg. CLEVELAND, OHIO Page 58 unhealthy — a state of neglect that makes the lines wrought by worries, ill- ness and time, to become deeper day by day. Sometime we may be rudely awakened by finding, on looking sideways into our hand glass, either that a gross ''double-chin" is beginning to form, with a line like a big wrinkle, which with maturer years will surely become a hard line between it and our original chin; or that the muscles and tissues of the cheeks have become relaxed, and in consequence there are flabby, pendulous MRS. ADAIR'S GANESH TOILET PREPARATIONS AND FACIAL TREATMENTS obtainable for years only at her Salons in New York, London, Paris and Nice, are the antithesis of "make-up", as they reach the CAUSE of all blemishes and re-establish by natural means a healthy complexion, sparkling eyes and a youthful contour. TIRED EYE TREATMENT restores tired, lined, discolored eyes to proper smoothness and fulness. $3.50. SUPERFLUOUS HAIR TREATMENT by antiseptic Electrolysis is almost painless. $2.50. HYGIENIC FACIAL MASSAGE, including the Strapping Muscle Treatment, restores lined, withered skins to velvety smoothness. $2.50. THIS PHOTO PORTRAYS THE GANESH CHIN STRAP ($5.00, $6.50) which removes double chin and restores lost contour, and the GANESH FOREHEAD STRAP ($4.00, $5.00) which cures deep lines between brows, corners of eyes and over forehead. These Imported Appliances, originated, owned and patented by Mrs. Adair exclusively, can be obtained nowhere else in the world. Faithfully used they accomplish the most wonderful results — everything that is claimed for them. MAIL ORDERS FILLED for all preparations and appliances on receipt of cheque. GANESH EASTERN MUSCLE OIL braces sagging muscles, fills hol- lows and removes wrinkles. Bottle, $5.00, $2.50, $1.00. GANESH DIABLE SKIN TONIC, a splendid face wash, strengthens the skin; closes pores and alleviates skin flabbiness and puffiness under the eyes. Bottle, $5.00, $2.00, 75c. GANESH EASTERN BALM SKIN FOOD for tender, dry skins. $3.00, $1.50, 75c. WRITE FOR VALUABLE BOOK containing list of all GANESH Preparations and Treatments and much beauty information and advice. NEW YORK, 21 West 38th Street. ph G one 3475 LONDON 92 New Bond St. W. PARIS Cambo Cambon reeley MIPP" 1 Rue ll*\_I-. Chauvain REGISTERED TRADE MARK Page 59 Creme de Luxe is a delightful preparation to use in place of powder. Does not wear off. Makes skin soft and velvety. Send 12 cents for sample. For sale all stores. Creme de Luxe 505 Beckman Bldg. OH 1VIY FOOT ' All foot troublespermanently relieved ^ > y - ,KJ _• by scientific corrections under super- vision of a surgeon. MRS. R. FULTON Manicuring and Chiropody Room 604 Standard Bldg. 323 Euclid Ave. Cleveland Recommended by N. 0. Stone Prop. Stone's Shoe Store Hours S a.m. to 6 p.m. 1V1