f 121 The Adirondack Region HISTORY AND ADVENTURES OF EARLY TIMES The Adirondack Region History and Adventures of Early Times By Richard Coughlin Piftnshed by Szirtwiy Phctr-Craft Company, tot* Watertowm N. Y. OCT §>CU624938 Copyrighted 1921 by Richard Coughlin Hlie Adirondack Region IN SEVERAL characteristics the Adirondack Region of Northern New York preserves a similarity to the Great Wilderness described by early French, Dutch and English soldiers, missionaries and traders. Its rugged heights and broad expanses of forests and lakes still provide retreats for abundant game and fish, for which it was noted in early days of Indian warfare and white settlement. Vast tracts of virgin forest lands are owned by the State and these will provide perpetual shelter for wild life, while maintaining the steady flow of water in numerous streams and rivers having their sources within this great reservoir of nature. The barriers of mountains, woods and waters still divert much of the traffic between the St. Lawrence and Hudson valleys to the lower and more level lands of the east and west, as it did in early times of canoe and pack traders. Though the railroads and the State's system of highways are making all parts of this great summer playground easily accessible, yet the charm of primeval forest and mountain scenery will never be lost. The land and climate generally are not suitable to agriculture, ex- cept as a precarious venture, and while extensive tracts of land have been cleared by lumbermen and swept by fire, yet the forest renews itself within a generation if trees enough are left for natural seeding. Large lumber and paper companies have found that reforesting is now a direct economic advantage to themselves as well as a wise measure of interest in the welfare of future gen- erations. They are following the example set by the State's forestry officials. Like a strong bastion of an early fortification the Adi- rondack Region stood as a barrier between the Mohawk Iroquois Indians and their ancient enemies of the north, Algonquins of the lower St. Lawrence and Ottawa rivers. Throughout all the eastern forests of North America there was almost continual warfare, migrations and mas- sacres of Indian tribes and nations when the first white settlers and explorers came to find their own ideals of liberty, or to search out new wealth or new routes to China and India. To the east and west of the "Great Wilderness" of the Adirondacks had passed southward that slow and sullen retreat of the Iroquois nations from their homes along the St. Lawrence to final settlement in central New York. In the Champlain Valley on the east and the St. Lawrence Valley on the west were tem- porary sites of their stockaded villages and broad fields for cultivating corn, squashes and tobacco, now abandon- ed for two or three generations when Champlain made his remarkable journeys of exploration to the lake to which he gave his name in 1609, and to the country of the Hurons and Ontario Iroquois in 1615. SETTLEMENTS OF THREE NATIONS. Three nations of western Europe, — France, Holland and England — have claimed ownership of the Adirondack Region, and descendants of all three are represented in the citizenship of scattered hamlets within its boundaries as well as in the prosperous farm lands, towns and cities encircling the great forest reserve today. Within the space of a dozen years representatives of the three peo- ples made settlements on northern Atlantic shores that vitally affected the ownership of the Adirondacks, but not until one hundred and seventy-five years had passed was it determined that a new nation of free people should hold dominion over these mountains and forests. The French had made first attempts at settlement along the shores of "Acadia," as they called the lands of Nova Scotia and Maine, in 1604 and 1605, followed by the English Popham-Gilbert unsuccessful venture at settle- ment at the mouth of the Kennebec river in Maine in 1607. Then came the London Company chartered by James the First of England to settle the first permanent English colony in Virginia in 1607, whose sufferings and privations were characteristic of all those early ventures to find better fortune or more freedom in America. The three settlements more intimately connected with Adiron- dack history were Champlain's colony at Quebec in 1608, the exploration of the Hudson River and landing of the Dutch on Manhattan Island under Henry Hudson in 1609, and the landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth on Cape Cod in December of 1620. When Jacques Cartier, the French mariner of St. Malo, first sailed up the St. Lawrence in 1535, after ex- ploring the mouth and adjacent islands in 1534, he landed at Quebec and entered into trade and conversation with Indians of the nearby forests. Cartier decided to ex- plore a little farther up the great river, in spite of pro- tests from the Indians who declared that enemy people lived in that river but a few days' journey away. At the island later named Montreal, Cartier found a differ- ent tribe or nation, in a stockaded village with long bark houses, speaking a different tongue. Hochelaga, the In- dians, caned their town. No attempt was made at settle- ment at Montreal, though Cartier passed the winter at Quebec, and twice in later years unsuccessfully attempted to found settlements near the latter place. French, Por- tuguese and English fishermen in succeeding decades took rich harvests of cod and herring from the waters about the coast of Newfoundland and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, or anchored for a while under the shores of Tadousac to trade for furs with the Montagnards of those northern forests. CHAMPLAIN'S DISCOVERY. Early tradition told of continual warfare between tribes of the lower St. Lawrence and the upper river, but it was not until the coming of Champlain with his French colonists in 1608 that the location of these veteran ene- mies was determined. This entrepid explorer, captain- general of the expedition and later governor of New France, journeyed up the river from his settlement at Quebec to the great island visited by Cartier seventy years earlier. There was no longer a stockade village of enemies, but only the poorer shelter of the northern Al- gonquin Indians. Champlain made friends of the tribes of the St. Lawrence, and determined to visit distant lands and waters described by them. In 1609 he set out from Quebec, left the St. Lawrence and sailed up a river which the Indians assured him would carry his craft safely to a great lake in the country of the "Yroquois." His sail craft could proceed no farther than the first falls of the Richelieu, whereupon Champlain made rather pertinent remarks concerning the veracity of his savage guides. He continued his journey, however, accompanied by two white soldiers, in canoes which the Indians paddled and carried around rapids or obstructions in the river. ANCIENT "YOROQUOIS" LANDS. When the broad expanse of the lake opened out before him Champlain was delighted with the prospect. The flotilla of canoes proceeded leisurely south along the shore of the lake, camps being made in the woods at night. The Algonquins told Champlain that this was the country of their enemies, and that the eastern shore of the lake had been inhabited within recent times by the "Yoroquois," as the open fields of former plantings bore evidence. Toward the southern end of the lake, in the narrow reaches, the Algonquins discovered a war party of their enemies, on the shore, and immediately a great chorus of imprecations and revilements were being hurled at each other. Champlain and his two white companions were hidden in the bottoms of canoes. When the war parties finally arrived at an understanding that the issue would be fought out on the next day the Algonquins landed and constructed a rough barricade of fallen trees, as did their enemies. This was the evening of July 29. 1609. Champlain described the organization of the attack- ing parties. The chief warrior designated with sticks placed on the ground the position of each sub-chief and warrior, and the savages after studying carefully the arrangement of sticks, would practice "falling in" or breaking ranks. This practice was followed by many tribes of eastern Indians, and has been described often by later writers. Another custom rather disconcerting to Champlain's soldierly instincts was the failure of the Indians to post sentries at night as a guard against surprise by the enemy. The Indians would be sufficiently alert and keen-eyed during the daytime, with scouts out ahead or ranging the woods along the line of travel, but at night they all would lie down around the campfires and sleep until daybreak. As their enemies were probably doing likewise, they were content with a hasty barricade of trees and brush, unless awakened by wierd dreams in- duced by periodic overeating. To these dreams they gave great significance, and before the encounter between the two forces on the shore of the lake the Algonquins besought Champlain to tell them what he had dreamed during the night. His answers brought them comfort and assurance of victory. THE FIRST BATTLE. When the opposing forces stepped forth for battle in the forest next day, the Algonquins opened ranks and the white men advanced to the front with their arquebuesks, matches lighted ready to fire. The Iroquois were greatly surprised but nevertheless advanced steadily and let loose a shower of arrows. Champlain fired and killed two of the chief Iroquois, and wounded another, the lead pellets penetrating the arrow-proof shields carried by the enemy warriors. The entire band then turned and fled south toward their homes, a number being killed or captured. This encounter is placed by students of early history at Crown Point, at Ticonderoga, and other points be- tween and adjacent. On the map of explorations which Champlain drew for his narrative of discoveries printed in 1632 he designated a spot bearing some resemblance to the shore line between Crown Point and Ticonderoga, as just around a point of land to the south is indicated a fanciful body of water designated as the lake "by which we go to the Yroquois," evidently Lake George. He lo- cated the place as "43 degrees, some minutes, latitude." Champlain decided to give his name to the large lake, and map makers of succeeding generations have retained the present designation. The Algonquins and Champlain re- turned to Quebec, following their victory, and there was great rejoicing among the northern Indians. The next encounter of Champlain with members of the Iroquois federation was six years later, beyond the western limits of the Great Wilderness and the Lesser Wilderness bordering Lake Ontario and the Elack River country. In October of 1615 Champlain came down out of the Huron country on Georgian Bay, northeast of Lake Huron, to lend his promised aid in an attack on the Antouhonorons, as he called the people of those Indian villages to the south of Lake Ontario. He was accom- panied by a servant and eight Frenchmen from the Hu- ron mission of Le Caron, the Recollet father, who was already established in that distant country. After crossing Lake Ontario from the Bay of Quinte, past the entrance to the St. Lawrence and journeying inland, southeast, beyond Oneida Lake, his Huron friends made an unsuccessful attack on a stockaded village, assisted by some of Champlain's white companions with arque- busques. After a short siege the Hurcns became dis- couraged and retreated, carrying the wounded on crude litters. Champlain had received a painful wound in the leg, and was carried through the woods to the shore of Lake Ontario with great difficulty and suffering. He passed the winter in the Huron country and returned to Quebec by way of the Ottawa river in the spring of 1616, accompanied by the missionary Le Caron. DUTCH TRADERS AND SETTLERS. Meanwhile the Dutch had made a trading post at New Amsterdam, Manhattan Island, and their trading vessels were venturing up the Hudson to barter with the river Indians. The traders entered into friendly traffic with the "Mahicans" of the upper river, kindred of the Mohi- can Indians, all of whom were of Algonquin extraction. The Yroquis of Champlain were called Maquas by the Dutch, and their villages were located along the south side of the Mohawk River about 40 miles west of where the river flows into the Hudson. At a later date these vil- lages were moved to the north side of the Mohawk. In the vicinity of Albany were villages of the Mahicans, and here the Dutch built a fort at Castle Island in 1623, opposite to which there was a fortified encampment of Mahicans, enemies of the "Maquas." In 1626 the Dutch aided the Mahicans in an encounter with the Mohawks, and were defeated, but good relations were soon restored by friendly traders. It was reported that three of the defeated party in this encounter were eaten by the vic- tors, a usual procedure of these warriors when on the war path at the time when white men first encountered them, and for two or three generations afterward. It is asserted that a Dutch fort at the site of Albany was first built in 1614 and occupied until 1617, when the traders were forced to abandon it. In 1630 the Mahi- 10 cans decided to move away from their enemies, the Mo- hawks, and a great tract of land, 24 by 48 miles, was purchased from the Mahicans by Kilean Van Rensselear, a rich diamond merchant of Antwerp, and one of the first "Patroons" of the province of New Netherlands. The Dutch West India Company, chartered guardians of the new colony, had laid down a policy that insured friend- ship of the Indians — the declaration that all lands should be purchased from the natives in addition to whatever title might pass from the Company or home government. Down along the lower St. Lawrence the struggling colony of Champlain at Quebec was enduring much sick- ness and hardships, due to the severe weather of winter, the difficulty of raising food, and the lacks of adequate supplies from France. During one of the winters at this period Champlain seriously considered leading a raid up- on one of the towns of the Mohawks, to obtain sufficient food for the winter. The name "Mohawk" was not used by these Indians themselves, for they were called in their own tongue, "Canienga," People of the Flint, from their possession of the steel and flint stone for making fire. It was pre- sumed that the steel was originally obtained by barter from northern coast Indians who had traded with the European fishermen for perhaps a century before white men ventured into the interior of New York. EARLY IROQUOIS HISTORY. From the earliest accounts of French and Dutch traders, missionaries and explorers, as well as later re- ports of Iroquois traditions and legends, modern authori- 11 ties have put together an interesting and comprehensive history of the Iroquois federation, and its influence on the settlements and final ownership of the Adirondack Region, the basin of the Great Lakes and the St. Law- rence valley. Sometime between 1535, the year of Cartier's visit to Hochelaga, Montreal — and 1608, the year of Champlain's first journey to the same place, the final war had risen which resulted in the Iroquois retreating to central New York, the Mohawks by way of Champlain, and the Onon- dagas and Oneidas, and possibly others of the federation, by way of the St. Lawrence. The Senecas and Cayugas held a tradition that they came from the west, together with kindred tribes of the Erics and Andastes, who all spoke a similar language and had similar customs. When the white men came into this section, the five nations of central New York were grouped in a loose federation, which later developed to stronger proportions and pro- duced keen diplomats and eloquent orators during the two centuries of wars, negotiations and peace treaties with white and Indian enemies. The Mohawks held the eastern door of the "Long House," next came the Oneidas in the vicinity of Oneida Lake and the upper Mohawk river, then the Onondagas on the hills about Onondaga Lake, keepers of the great annual council fire and wam- pum belts that bound the federation in treaties. Beyond the Onondagas were the Cayugas settled near Cayuga Lake, and at the western end were the Senecas, in the valley of the Genesee River and later extending their ter- ritory to Niagara. 12 THE "LONG HOUSES." Villages were protected by strong stockades of tree trunks placed upright in the ground, sometimes in triple rows and inclined so as to cross at the top to provide a gallery for the defenders. Within the stockade were grouped the long houses, typical structures of the Iro- quois and kindred tribes, but never adopted by neighbor- ing Algonquins. Parallel rows of slim poles were placed in the ground, bent together at the top, and then covered with bark of the elm tree, the structure being narrow but sometimes long enough to hold a score of families. Holes in the roof at intervals allowed smoke from the sev- eral family fires to escape, and admitted some light. Doorways were at each end of the long structure, covered with bark or hides in winter. Over poles slung under the roof and on benches or in bark containers along the sides were stored maize, pumpkins, dried fish and meat and other provisions for the winter. The families slept on the floor or on the benches along the sides. Outside the stockades were fields cleared by burning down trees, and between stumps were the patches of maize, pump- kins, tobacco and beans for winter use — cultivated by the squaws. Villages were moved at intervals of from ten to twenty years, as the land became impoverished or firewood too distant for easy carrying. This accounts for the numerous sites of villages found in later times, and the apparent confusion in locations of tlie same peoples made by early writers. The New England Indians, those of the Hudson River villages, the Algonquins of Canada and of the western Great Lakes could all converse to some extent at least, 13 because of similar dialects, but the Iroquois could not speak to these except through interpreters or captives who had been adopted into tribes of the Federation and had become true warriors. The Iroquois were of a dif- ferent race, with different customs and religious beliefs, their only kindred being the Hurons, Tobacco Nation and Neutral Nation living between Georgian Bay and Niagara, the Eries to the southwest and the Andastes to the southeast along the Susquehanna River. Even these kindred peoples were not free from the relentless ferocity of the Iroquois, for the Hurons and Tobacco Nation were massacred or dispersed in 1649-50, the Neutral Nation met the same fate a year later, the Eries were also de- stroyed in 1654, and twenty years later the Andastes, after continuous warfare, were brought into subjection and made to pay tribute. From all of these the Iroquois adopted warriors to replenish their losses, and many women and children were merged into the Five Nations, to so great an extent that at one time in the latter part of the seventeenth century adopted warriors outnumber- ed native sons. Then in 1714 or 1715 a kindred nation from the Carolinas, the Tuscaroras, were admitted to membership as a sixth nation, and apportioned lands and hunting grounds near the Oneidas. However, they did not become equal members of the Federation, having representation but no vote at the great councils. It is probable that there are no Iroquois of pure blood descent today, owing to the wide practice of adopting enemies from all tribes. HI-A-WAT-HA FOUNDER OF THE LEAGUE. The federation of the Iroquois had not reached the more formal state of later days when Champlain and the 14 Dutch first encountered these people. But already the founders of the League were being clothed with mythical tradition, especially the wise man Hi-a-wat-ha, an Onon- daga who preached the gospel of federation, but like the usual prophets had to seek other fields to gain honor. He was adopted by the Mohawks, and they ratified his plan in solemn council, later gaining the approval of the Oneidas. The Onondagas were persuaded to join on the promise of holding the Great Council in their lands each year, and these in turn helped to persuade the Cayugas and Senecas. In the list of great chiefs entitled to sit in the Great Council, the Mohawks preserved the name of Hi-a-wat-ha. He was one of the nine, whose succes- sors were elected by solemn ceremony. There were fifty principal chiefs representing the Five Nations in this Great Council, 9 from the Mohawks, 9 from the Oneidas, 14 Onondagas, 10 Cayugas, and 8 Senecas. Later the Tuscaroras were represented by ten chiefs, but in the final determination of any plan of ac- tion for the entire League, each nation had but one vote. The names of all the original chiefs were preserved and given to elected successors. In raising a warrior to the rank of chief, nominations were generally made by the women, and hereditary chieftanships passed down through the female line. If such a chief died, his own son did not succeed, but a son of one of his sisters was selected. The opinions of women were heard in these councils through orators or chiefs chosen to represent them. CLANS AND ORATORY. Within each nation were clans or tribes, to one of 15 which every member belonged, and as the tribes were the same in all five nations, this helped to bind friendships between the peoples. All nations, however, did not pos- sess the full number of tribes or clans. The Mohawks and the Oneidas had only the three principal clans, the Bear, Wolf and Turtle. A warrior was required to mar- ry from a different clan than his own, and the children took the mother's designation. Visitors from one nation to another were supposed to be housed and entertained by members of their own clan. There were also frequent marriages between members of the different nations. At one time the Oneidas, who were never numerous, lost so many of their warriors that the Mohawks sent young men to supply husbands, and ever after these two nations were considered the closest of kindred. All these factors in relationship helped to strengthen the federation, while the training obtained in tribal councils and the Great Council in the land of the Onondagas produced orators and diplomats skilled beyond those of any savage people. The language of the orators was precise, fol- lowing well-defined forms of inflection, and in council the procedure was polite and of established custom, though often tiresome because of an orator's extended repeti- tions of his predecessors' points of argument. BELIEFS AND SUPERSTITIONS. The Iroquois held beliefs in many powerful super- natural personages, and had several stories of the crea- tion of the world. The Great Spirit, most powerful of all, was variously designated with good or evil attributes, but there were also demon spirits to whom sacrifices of enemy captives were often made. Areskoui is the name 16 of the powerful god or demon often mentioned in early commentaries. Then there were other spirits, benign or vengeful, inhabiting water falls, rocks, woods and rivers, or even possessing the bodies of familiar birds and beasts. The forest paths were often a realm of super- stitous dread to a lonely Indian, and even his wierd dreams could bring terror unless favorably interpreted by a medicine man. This latter individual was more often a dealer in charms and incantations than a healer. In fact, the In- dian medicine man knew little about the curative value of roots and herbs. There was general knowledge through- out the tribes of simple remedies, but these were often accompanied with incantations and practices that might prove fatal to the patient did he not have a vigorous con- stitution. Ceremonial dances were held at stated periods to celebrate lengendary events or seasons, or in connec- tion with religious superstitions, as for instance the "Feast of Dreams." This event was always a welcome opportunity for some avaricious individuals to obtain long coveted possessions of others. During this time those who had dreams calling for articles of wear or do- mestic use or armament would rush from house to house, simulating frenzy or madness, and their superstitious kinsmen would offer article after article until the right one proved a cure and was accepted by the "afflicted" per- son. These dreams had a powerful influence in urging on war parties, or in breaking down the spirit and deter- mination of the too often fickle savages. DUTCH TRADE POWERFUL FACTOR. Soon after the Dutch built their Fort Orange at Al- 17 bany and when settlers and traders began to take up land following Van Renssallaer's purchase from the Mahicans in 1630, there was opened up an extensive trade with the Mohawks. Especially did these Indians demand guns, powder and lead, for which they paid big prices in furs, and which they soon learned to use with skill. There had been intermittent warfare, with forays, surprises, captures and burning at the stake between Iroquois and their enemies, the Algonquins of the north and the Hurons of the west, and through the old war trails of the upper Hudson, Lake George, Lake Champlain and the Richelieu passed back and forth large and small bands of painted warriors. For fifty years the eastern trails were held by the Mohawks, while the western war route through woods and the St. Lawrence River were blocked by Oneidas and Onondagas, with occasional help from the Cayugas and Senecas. In 1622 a treaty of peace was negotiated, and the struggling French traders, settlers and missionaries were granted a short respite, but peace was broken again in 1627 and raged with fury until 1645, when another brief truce was made. During this time the war parties of the Mohawks ranged th»A Dutch prince William of Orange, brought turmoil to the colonists of New York. Out of these disturbances arose Jacob Leisler, merchant and captain of a trained band of militia in New York, who was proclaimed gov- ernor by his supporters. The men of Massachusetts had deprived Governor Edmund Andros of the authority given him by James II over the combined colonies — New England, Connecticut, New York and New Jersey. Leis- ler entered upon a brief career as governor of New York. He replied to the protests of Governor De Nonville of Canada, who blamed the English for providing arms and encouragement to the Iroquois. FIRST "FRENCH AND INDIAN" WAR. The declaration of war between England and France, known as William and Mary's war, resulted in the first "French and Indian War" blazing up with fury all along 33 i af settlement 168 ant Frontenec, in his ?Ott ; ear, was sent back :; Cai sg em the French King, - V.Y. ..•• d the colonists took r his vig- orous personality s nemsures, A Donative as rganised and wen! up the Ettchelieu-C route, crossing the Hudson y. : . capturing Sche- aectadj in Ft 1690. This settlement was at that time i mixed village of Dutch and Mohawks, and many /:" both were killed or captured, and buildings burned. Carta::: Alexander Glen, the dm st prominent resident of the vicinity, lived across the river from Schenectady, He had several times befriended French captives u the Mohawks, and as a recompense the commander of the invaders, Iberville, allowed him tc choose out all his relatives from the ranks . vf captives. He included ■ re- markable number within the bonds of kinship, and then the French returned to the St. Lawrence v . aptives, The Rnglish, Dutch wad Iroquois were often assisted ::: these war raids by a tribe of Ifahicans, the I Mips or es, who had settled at Schaghticoke, on the Hudson above Albany, in 1672, They were former masters of lands along the Hudson rc.tr Albany but had be* the Mohawks, settling in New Engh: which the;.- returned t: these new Haas::: river settle- ments, For many years they hunted throughout the Adirondack and New England forests, traded at Albany finally came under the influence of the ch missionaries, Their descendants may be found 34 today among the Indians of the St. Francis mission near Quebec. They were kindred of the Mohicans of New England, described by Cooper in the Leatherstocking Tales. The raiding parties sent out by the French began to be felt so keenly along the New York and New England borders that two expeditions against Canada were planned in 1690 for a combined force of English and In- dians, one by way of Champlain and the Richelieu, and the other by way of the St. Lawrence. Neither expedi- tion was carried out. At Lake George the Indians made elm bark canoes, but the English forces were doubtful about this mode of conveyance. Also, smallpox broke out among the forces, and the expedition was abandoned. Governor Sloughter of New York planned further measures against Canada in L691, in order to forestall Count Frontcnac's preparations. Major Schuyler of Al- bany with '500 Mohawks and 150 whites raided forts and farms on the lower Richelieu, killing many soldiers and settlers. The Iroquois renewed their fearful raids on all outlying French settlements. FRENCH RAID ON MOHAWK TOWNS. In January of 1693 an expedition of six or seven hun- dred men organized at Quebec by Count Frontenac came up the Richelieu-Champlain route, following the trail of Courceles 27 years before, passing Schenectady February 8th, and attacking and destroying three Mohawk towns. About 300 prisoners, including 100 warriors, were cap- tured, and then a rapid retreat was made through the forest, covered with depths of snow. English, Dutch and 35 Indians followed under Major Schuyler and the two for- ces came together in the woods near the Hudson, where hasty barriers of felled trees were thrown together. For two or three days the opposing forces fought intermit- tently from these barriers, or tried to find warmth from camp fires built at the bottom of scooped-out hollows in the deep snow. Both sides were on short rations, but the English and Dutch suffered most because in the haste of their organization insufficient supplies were gathered. The Mohawks were more comfortable, for most of them adhered to the practices of their forebears on the war path, utilizing for food the bodies of fallen enemies or enemies killed for that purpose alone. Major Schuyler in later years related to Caldwalder Colden, the early his- torian of New York, that while cold and hungry he had been offered food by his Mohawk allies, but suddenly lost his appetite when he discovered the source of their food supply. Pursuit of the French was given up on February 20th, after their forces had safely crossed the Hudson on an opportune ice jam. Raids of the French and their Indian allies were car- ried from the Maine coast to the frontier settlements of Virginia, and in 1694 Governor Fletcher of Virginia called a council to meet at Albany to take united action. The Iroquois had sent peace ambassadors to Count Fron- tenac at Quebec, but the English governor and Dutch leaders at Albany were able to hold the League to the defense of the colony. Count Frontenac restored the fort at Frontenac, abandoned under DeNonville in 1688, and gathered 36 around this post on the north side of Lake Ontario many families of friendly Cayugas and Senecas. The English feared the growing influence of the French with western Indians, and the increasing trade flowing down to Mon- treal and Quebec. In the winter of 1695-96 Frontenac planned another raid on the Mohawk towns, but abandoned the plan owing to the severity of the winter and the report of seven feet of snow all the way from Montreal to the Mohawk river. IROQUOIS SUBDUED. In the summer of 1696 the French invaded the Onon- daga country by way of the St. Lawrence and Lake On- tario. Frontenac had some 1400 soldiers and 450 In- dians, who laid waste Onondaga and Oneida towns and destroyed crops and food supplies, but had no encounters with the Iroquois, who fled on the approach of the French. This raid of Frontenac taught the Iroquois that they were not immune to attack, either at the "eastern door" of the Mohawks or in the west. They sent emis- saries with peace belts to Frontenac, and before the end of 1697 prisoners were exchanged and peace concluded. Governor Bellomont of New York wished to negotiate for the Iroquois, but they proclaimed their independence and held to their own authority. In the peace settlement known as the treaty of Rys- wick between English and French in 1697, Port Royal in Acadia, which had been taken by New England forces, was ceded back to the French, but the northern line of New York was not settled, nor were the western spheres of influence of French and English. The rival claim:, 37 were a source of conflict for more than a half century afterward. Governor Bellomont held a great council of the Iro- quois at Albany in 1700, and promised to send English missionaries and smiths to the Indian village to counter- act the influence of the French. He also promised to build a fort on Onondaga lake, but this was not construct- ed for many years owing to objection by the people at Albany, who feared the removal of their dwindling fur trade. The Adirondack region and the forests of central New York had been so thoroughly hunted that the In- dians could no longer provide great numbers of pelts, un- less they undertook long and toilsome journeys, or traf- ficked with western savages. BEGINNING OF SECOND WAR. On the outbreak of "Queen Anne's War," or the "War of the Spanish Succession" in Europe in 1702, called the second French and Indian War when it resulted in con- flict in America in 1704, all the Iroquois nations except the Senecas, were persuaded by Peter Schuyler of Albany to side with the English. However, they sent secret word to the French that they would not take the war path. They had learned a severe lesson from Governor Fron- tenac, and in all the subsequent years of warfare the St. Lawrence was never closed to French traffic, though some war parties used this route, while many others went by way of Champlain and the eastern Adirondacks. Massa- chusetts entered into negotiations for Iroquois aid in this renewal of the old border warfare, offering bounty money for scalps, a practice common with both forces. 38 The Indians were feeling bitter toward the English officials, saying that they had been robbed by land specu- lators, cheated by traders, and given little support in the late war. New York's northern border defenses were in poor condition. The forts at Albany and Schenectady were decayed and neglected. One hundred and eighty of the King's soldiers were stationed at Albany, in rags, and sustained only by voluntary contributions of leading resi- dents. The Indians did not believe that these soldiers could be of much protection against the French. It was said at the time that two-thirds of the Mohawks had re- moved across the Adirondacks to Caughnawaga, with some Oneidas and a few of the other Iroquois. These northern Iroquois and other Canadian Indians participated in the French raids all along the northern border, including the famous raid and burning of Deer- field, Mass., February 28th, 1704. This was the encount- er in which Rev. John Williams and his family were cap- tured with numerous others, separated in the retreat and compelled to walk the long journey up the Connecticut river, west along the frozen White river, across the divide of the White Mountains, down the stream called French river, later Winoski, or Onion, to the frozen and bleak- surface of Lake Champlain a little north of the present city of Burlington, from which they reached the first resting place and shelter at the French outpost at Cham- bly, thence to Montreal. During negotiations for ex- change of prisoners during the next two or three years most of the survivors of this ordeal were returned to their families. The Champlain route was used by the 39 exchange envoys of Massachusetts. SMUGGLERS DURING WARFARE. The New York Iroquois were not so active in retali- ating by raids across the northern frontier as in former years. During these years of open war the rivalry for western trade continued keen, and French traders at Mon- treal were often able to secure goods from Albany mer- chants by employing Mohawks at Caughnawaga to visit their kinsmen south of Champlain, and bring back sup- plies negotiated for in this roundabout manner. British warships hampered sea traffic by way of the Atlantic and St. Lawrence route, also in winter the supplies of trading articles could not be renewed by way of the sea because the St. Lawrence was frozen over. Thus goods obtained at Albany made a long journey to the western Great Lakes to be bartered by the French for furs which the English and colonial traders were themselves anxious to obtain. Peter Schuyler and others at Albany kept in touch with the Caughnawaga Mohawks and frequently gave warning to Massachusetts, New Hampshire and Maine settlements of impending raids. These were frequent upon towns such as Dover, Exter, Casco, Kingston, Wells, York, Groton, Lancaster, and others. It was not until 1709 that the New York Assembly, co-operating with Col. Ingoldsby, lieutenant-governor, en- tered to any extent into the war plans of other colonies, and then the project was formed of capturing Quebec by sea, with a land force operating down the Champlain val- ley. A force of 1500 militia under Col. Nicholson, in- 40 eluding a number of Iroquois, were assembled at Albany, then built a stockaded fort opposite Saratoga, and an- other at the Great Carrying Place, called Fort Nichloson, later Fort Lydius, and eventually Fort Edwards. They cut a road through to Woods Creek, leading into Cham- plain, and built another stockaded fort, later rebuilt and named Fort Anne. Ramesay, the local governor of Mon- treal, with a force of 1500 men, Canadians and Indians, was sent to oppose the rumored invasion, and he ad- vanced south as far as Crown Point where a few English canoes were encountered. After a slight skirmish both withdrew to their bases. The sea expedition to Quebec was abandoned, and as a pestilence broke out at Fort Anne on Woods Creek, this post was also abandoned be- fore Fall. The English maintained a small fortified post at Crown Point, from which scouting and raiding parties of whites with Iroquois and Schaghticoke Indians were sent out north and east, as well as from the log fort at Woods Creek. The Province of New York maintained 600 Indian warriors and a thousand members of their families at Albany for a long period during this conflict. MOHAWKS VISIT ENGLAND. In 1709 occurred the famous visit of Mohawk chief- tans, under guidance of Colonel Schuyler of Albany, to the court of Queen Anne of England, where the redskins were regaled with much ceremony. The British cabinet were brought to realize the advisability of maintaining friendly relations and a strong protectorate over the Five Nations, if northern and western New York were to be held for the British crown. Queen Anne ordered Eng- 41 lish missionaries sent to the Iroquois, and presented two sets of silver plate for their church services, one of the sets being preserved at the State Museum at Albany to- day. When Port Royal in Acadia (Nova Scotia) on the Bay of Fundy was captured by New England and British forces in October, 1710, the principal eastern fortified post of the French was lost, and this brought renewed plans of operation by them through the old Champlain route. In 1711 Colonel Nicholson's forces of militia and In- dians, 2300 men, were again assembled at Woods Creek, ready to descend the Champlain route to aid in the ex- pected capture of Quebec. Admiral Walker's fleet, with numerous sailors and soldiers aboard, had sailed from Boston for the Gulf of St. Lawrence to make the first at- tack, but many of the ships were wrecked on the north- ern shores of the gulf, forcing the abandonment of the expedition. Upon hearing the news Colonel Nicholson in a great rage burned the fort and returned to Albany, where his forces were disbanded. An outpost of 150 men was left to guard against French and Indian scalping parties. PEACE AGAIN ALONG THE BORDER. The Treaty of Utrecht in 1731 brought temporary peace to the northern border. Acadia (Nova Scotia) was ceded to England, but there was still dispute over the northern boundary. This dispute, as well as the rivalry for trade and the enmity of northern Indians for en- croaching settlers, brought frequent raids in New Eng- 42 land during following years, though the French and Eng- lish colonial officials were formally at peace. Abenaki Indians of Main and the lower St. Lawrence, together with French woodsmen, often used the Champlain route, or starting from Quebec, went up the Chaudiere, across hills and swamps to the headwaters of the Kennebec in Maine, and then down to the settlements and outlying farms. This later, in reverse, was the route taken by General Arnold in the advance on Quebec during the Revolutionary War. In the winter of 1724-1725, the Champlain route was used by Col. Samuel Thaxter and Col. William Dudley, envoys of Lieutenant Governor William Dummer of Massachusetts, to negotiate for prisoners captured by Indians in those border raids, and to stop the troublesome warfare on outlying settlements of Maine, New Hamp- shire and Massachusetts. Some of the New York Mo- hawks aided the New England militia in their attacks on Maine Indians. Mohawks and Schaghticokes went to Boston, where they were offered $100 for scalps of Cana- dian warriors. French writers usually designated the Schaghticokes as the "Nation of the Wolves" — Loups. There was general peace along the northern New York border, because the contest was over influence and settle- ment on disputed territory to the east. An extensive trade was maintained by merchants of New York and Al- bany across the Champlain route, the goods generally being used by the French traders for traffic with western Indians. COLDEN'S LITTLE HISTORY. In 1727 Caldwalder Colden, the physician, lawyer, 43 naturalist and colonial official, wrote his famous little "History of the Five Indian Nations of Canada Depend- ent Upon the Province of New York." Its object was to show English officials and men of influence that the Five Nations should be conciliated, and western trade wrested from the French if the northern and western frontiers were to be made safe, and the colony prosper- ous. The French were supplied almost entirely with woolen goods from New York by way of Albany and Champlain, or by sea to the St. Lawrence. This traffic was officially prohibited in 1727, the embargo causing severe controversy, but as a fortified trading post was built at Oswego on Lake Ontario the same year, the result was an increase in trade with western Indians. Colden said that 300 men were engaged in traffic at Oswego that year, and that the move was fully justified by the results. FIRST FORT AT CROWN POINT. In 1726 the French made first attempts to establish a post on the eastern side of Lake Champlain, opposite Crown Point. Massachusetts and New Hampshire both protested, claiming the territory. New Hampshire had been established under a separate charter in 1791, and claimed the Champlain country as its own. Then in 1731 the French took possession of the land at Crown Point and fortified it under direction of Sieur de la Fresniere. Governor Beauharnois of Canada expected that it would be necessary to drive away English traders, but none were found. The fort was named Fort Frederic, and contained a massive stone tower commanding the narrow lake. An offer was made by Governor Beauharnois in 1739 44 to deed to the Mohawk Indians the lands between Crown Point and the Hudson portage as hunting gounds. The French held to their old claims of title to this territory. OUTBREAK OF A NEW WAR. Soon after the declaration of war between England and France in 1744, known as the War of the Austrian Succession, border warfare was resumed in America. The French first attacked posts in Nova Scotia. Then the English colonial forces in 1745, aided by a British fleet under Commodore Warren, attacked the strongly fortified base of Louisburg, on Cape Breton Island. The troops were commanded by William Pepperell, the popu- lar merchant of Kittery, and when the project was com- pleted successfully, further plans were made for an in- vasion of Canada by way of Champlain the next year. Governor Shirley of Massachusetts proposed to Governor Clinton of New York that the colonial forces should be used to capture Crown Point, "Fort Frederick." Fifteen hundred Massachusetts troops started for the rendezvous, but were recalled to strengthen Boston against any pos- sible sea attack of the French. Governor Clinton could not obtain from the New York Assembly a grant of money and supplies to organize an expedition against Crown Point. He and the Assembly were in one of their periodic and bitter controversies over the limits of authority and perogatives of the crown, as represented by the governor. The Assembly used its power of voting money, or even the governor's salary, in the keen partisan contest felt throughout the province, and the same contest was being waged in other 45 colonies, creating sentiment which with other causes eventually grew to a desire for independence. RAID ON SARATOGA. There was a wooden fort at the little Dutch settle- ment of Saratoga, farthest northern outpost of the col- ony, but in such poor condition that it was abandoned by the small force of regulars. Thereupon 500 French and Indians, under the veteran woodsman Marin, raided the place and burned all the buildings, taking 100 prison- ers, on November 28th, 1745. All the northern frontier of New York and New England felt the sting of large or small raiding parties. Crown Point was the head- quarters of the band which in 1746 raided and captured Fort Massachusetts, western outpost of that colony. The raiders came south by way of Champlain, Woods Creek, and then up the Hoosac River, returning the same way and burning numerous buildings of Dutch and English settlers. William Johnson, the young relative of Admiral War- ren, was at that time agent of the latter's land grants along the Mohawk, and very popular with the Iroquois. Governor Clinton made him Indian commissioner of the province, and before long his home at Fort Johnson on the Mohawk River was headquarters for Iroquois chiefs of all the nations whenever it was necessary to hold a council in the English interests. Governor Clinton sent an expedition of Iroquois against an outpost of the French on an island in Lake George in 1747, but without results. 46 In July of 1748 news reached the colonies of suspen- sion of hostilities in Europe, and this soon brought a suspension of border raids in America. At the peace settlement of Aix-la-Chapelle the strong post of Louis- burg on Cape Breton Island, captured by New England forces, was returned to France, but the northern and western boundary lines of New York were not settled. French hunters and traders were settled along the Cham- plain shores, with a few clearings in the vast expenses of forests. The rivalry for trade and influence with the western lakes Indians continued as before. Abbe Piquet established his Indian mission settle- ment at the mouth of the Oswegatchie on the St. Law- rence river (Ogdensburgh) in 1749, but a band of hostile Mohawks burned the place in October, and then it was rebuilt with storehouses, fortified stockades, trading sta- tion, and other buildings. Within two years there were gathered here 1,000 or 1,500 Iroquois attached to the French, principally Onondagas, with some of the other nations. Besides fur trapping the Indians were engaged in hunting the woods for wild ginseng, the root esteemed by the Chinese for supposed medicinal properties. New England and Canadian sea traders had lately developed a considerable trade with the distant Orient in this drug. At this time the Iroquois began to leave their ancient "Long House" settlements and wandered far and wide in small bands and families, throughout the Adirondacks and southwest along the Ohio. In the latter region there was great rivalry for trade, resulting in the building of Fort Duquesne by the French at the present site of Pitts- burgh in 1754. 47 COLONIAL CONGRESS AT ALBANY. In this same year the Congress of American colonial representatives was held at Albany to make treaties of peace and friendship with the Iroquois. The Congress also considered Benjamin Franklin's plan of union for better defense of all the colonies against aggressions of the French and Indians in the west. Encroachments of settlers on Mohawk lands and injustice from traders and commissioners who were also traders had alienated the friendship of the Iroquois, and their chief Hendrick led a deputation to New York in protest. William Johnson's work at Onondaga and at his own home soothed the in- dignant Indians. NORTHERN BORDER IN DANGER. George Washington's military encounter with the small French scouting party in western Pennsylvania in May of 1754, was the spark that soon started a great war in Europe. The commissioners appointed by England and France under the treaty following the late war had not yet settled the northern and western boundary ques- tion. Soon hostile war parties began to raid the outly- ing settlements of New England and New York. Both English and French reinforcements were sent to Amer- ica, and first hostilities opened with a sea encounter off the coast of New Foundland. This was the real begin- ning of the "Seven Years' War" as it was known in Eu- rope, or the last "French and Indian" war in America. Early in 1755 plans were made by Governor Shirley of Massachusetts, chief of the colonial forces, for the capture of Crown Point. He also expected to capture 48 Niagara; fortify the portage of the Kennebec-Chaudiere in north Maine, and then win all the western territory. Provincial militia from New England, New York and New Jersey, under Johnson, now a militia colonel, were to capture Crown Point. He had been made sole super- intendent of Indian affairs, and was able to prevent an outbreak of the Iroquois, even securing the aid of some 300 for his military expedition, which gathered at the southern end of Lake St. Sacrament (Lake George) in September of 1755. The Marquis de Vaudrieul, new governor of Canada, a native of the northern province, sent Baron Dieskau with 3,500 men, regulars, Canadians and Indians, in the spring of 1755 to Lake Champlain to garrison Crown Point and possibly attack Albany. The defeat of Gen- eral Braddock at Fort Dequesne in July of 1755 had brought many of the wavering red warriors to the side of the French. JOHNSON NAMES LAKE GEORGE. In July, Colonel Johnson's force of 3,000 men had gathered at Albany. Among them were Ephriam Wil- liams, Israel Putnam, John Stark, Seth Pomeroy and oth- er notables active in previous wars or to become famous in the later Revolution. In August Johnson built Fort Lyman, later called Fort Edwards, at the great carrying place from the Hudson river to Woods Creek, and also to Lake George. It was decided to reach Lake Cham- plain by way of Lake George (or Lake St. Sacrement as it was still called), and the first wagon road was then cut through the woods to the southern end of the lake. 49 Johnson wrote to the British Lords of Trade: "I have given the name of Lake George, not only in honor of his Majesty, but to ascertain his undoubted dominion here." Ground was cleared for a camp between the marsh on the west and the higher ground to the east where Fort George was later constructed. BATTLE OF LAKE GEORGE. An advance post of Baron Dieskau's forces was sta- tioned at "Carillon" or Ticonderoga, commanding the water passages from both Lake George and Woods Creek. With about 1,700 of his mixed forces General Dieskau advanced on the 4th of September, by way of Woods Creek and South Bay, thence to the wagon road from Johnson's camp to Fort Edwards. Here he ambushed and defeated a force sent out by Johnson to intercept the French, the action taking place between French mountain and West mountain. Chief Hendrick of the Mohawks, who had protested against the small numbers of the expedition, and then joined the advance, was killed in the first volleys of the action. The fugitives were driven back to Johnson's camp, where a barricade of wagons and tree trunks was hastily thrown together. The Baron attacked this camp impetuously with his vet- erans, but was steadily repulsed. Gradually Johnson's colonials and Indians took encouragement from the suc- cess of their stand, then began to advance upon the French, and soon dispersed the enemy through the woods. General Dieskau was severely wounded and captured. A party of Canadians and Indians in the woods were sur- prised and defeated at the scene of the morning's combat by a scouting party sent out from Fort Edwards. The 5Q dead bodies were thrown into the ''Bloody Pool," as it is still called. The battle monument at Lake George commemorates the incident of Chief Hendrick's protest over the small number of men Johnson had proposed to send out when his scouts reported the proximity of French forces. Hendrick said that there were too many to be killed, and too few to fight, illustrating his argument by asking Johnson to break one twig or arrow, and then offering several to be broken together. Reenforcements arrived to aid Johnson, but no at- tempt was made to advance on Crown Point. In Novem- ber 3,000 men returned to their homes for the winter, leaving a garrison of about 500 men at the new fort, named William Henry by Johnson in honor of a grandson of the King. Johnson also named his fort on the Hudson Fort Edwards after another grandson. As a reward for his military activity and influence with the Iroquois, Johnson was made a baronet and received a military commission direct from the Crown. In the next May, 1756, England declared formal war after open conflict on land and sea of a year, and France followed with a similar declaration in June. In the same month General Montcalm arrived in Canada to take mili- tary command, supported by additional regulars from France, in all 3,000 including Dieskau's. There were at that time from 13,000 to 15,000 militia in Canada, all the able bodied males above 15 years of age. The population was estimated at 50,000 to 60,000. In the British col- onies there were 1,600,00, of whom 400,000 were negroes. 51 TICONDEROGA FORTIFIED, In the winter of 1755-56 the Canadian engineer, Lot- biniere, had strengthened Ticonderoga so as to make it a considerable fortified post. In March, Lieut, de Lery, a Canadian militia officer, led a raiding party from Oswegatchie through the woods to the portage from the upper Mohawk to Oneida Lake, near the present city of Rome, where Fort Bull was captured and supplies burned. In the spring of 1756 the French battalions of La Reine, Languedoc and Royal Roussillons were sent to gar- rison Ticonderoga, and in June General Montcalm and the engineer, Levis, arrived at the fort. They found it a square with four bastions, bomb proof, stone barracks, and a ditch partly excavated from solid rock. This was the old fort, on the crown of the promontory, not the later one built by the English and whose remains are still visible. The English colonial troops, with a few regulars, un- der command of Colonel John Winslow, assembled along the Hudson above Albany, at Fort Edwards and at Fort William Henry at Lake George, where the woods had been cut down for a mile around the works. The Earl of Loudon had been sent out from England as command- er in chief of all operations, to supercede Governor Shir- ley of Massachusetts. ROGER'S RANGERS. Many scouting parties were sent out by both sides. Captain Robert Rogers of New Hampshire, partisan chief 52 and skilled forest ranger, began to gather fame for his venturesome exploits along the shores of Lake Champlain and down the Richelieu, where he captured or destroyed supplies, and brought in prisoners from whom much in- formation was obtained. In August the English fort at Oswego on Lake On- tario was captured by Montcalm with three battalions of regulars, aided by Canadians and Indians. This brought consternation to the English colonists, and apprehension of further raids from the Champlain district, where their forces were standing on the defensive. Montcalm later appeared at Ticonderoga with his regulars from Ontario, by way of the St. Lawrence and Montreal. The colonial troops were ill-disciplined, unprepared, and assembled under a loose confederation. The Cana- dians were under the military rule of an autocratic gov- ernment, and more efficient. As Parkman says: "Is was a compact military absolutism confronting a heterogen- eous group of industrial democracies, where the force of numbers was neutralized by diffusion and incoher- ence." In March of 1757 a French force of some 1,600 made at attack across the ice-bound lake on Fort William Henry, burning storehouses, shops, whaleboats and sloops, but the garrison of 350 regulars and militia under Major Eyre successfully defended the fort itself. In July, French regulars, Canadians and Indians re- enforced the garrison at Ticonderoga under command of General Montcalm. They built a camp and saw mill on the outlet of Lake George, at the falls or end of the rapid. 53 about two miles above the entrance into Lake Champlain. The Chevalier de Levis, commander at this camp, cut a road through the woods southerly about one and a half miles to the head of the rapids, with another fortified camp about a mile from the foot of Lake George. CAPTURE OF FORT WILLIAM HENRY. In the latter part of the month the French started their advance on Fort William Henry, through the woods on the north side of Lake George along an old Mohawk trail to Ganouskie bay, later named Northwest Bay, and from thence to the southern end of Lake George on the western side. The force numbered 7,600 men, of whom 1,600 were Indians. Considerable artillery was carried up the lake in batteau, and landed in Artillery Cove, northwest of the site of Fort William Henry. Montcalm made his base of operations nearby, at the present site of the northern part of Lake George village. South and east of the fort were placed camps of Levis and Boula- maque, with their Canadians and Indians to guard the approach from Fort Edwards. Montcalm's trenches and artillery emplacements were gradually extended eastward toward Fort William Henry, eventually reaching the gar- den maintained by the garrison, about the site of the present hotel. Lieut. Col. Monro, the veteran Scotch commander at Fort William Henry, had received reenforcements of a few hundred men from General Webb at Fort Edwards on the Hudson, raising the number of defenders to 2,200. They were deficient in artillery, and scourged with smallpox, a disease which seemed to cause more loss in all those early campaigns than the extensive armed conflicts 54 themselves. The Earl of Loudon had stripped the north- ern colonies of available military forces for his ill-fated expedition to Halifax, from which he hoped to capture Louisburg, a hope shattered by storms and dilatoriness. After a few days of skirmishing and heavy artillery fire the depleted garrison surrendered, with honors of war, and a promise to be marched safely to Fort Ed- wards. Canadian Indians broke in upon the ranks of the prisoners, as well as the sick and wounded in their tents, massacred many, stole clothing and personal arti- cles, and carried about 200 into capitivity to Montreal, where they were ransomed by the French. Hundreds were forced to flee through the woods for safety, later gaining the shelter of Fort Edwards. Montcalm returned to Ticonderoga, August 16th, af- ter leveling and burning the fort and wooden works of the adjacent entrenched camp to the east. One more raid of the French closed the warfare for the year, when about 300 Canadians and Indians burned the settlement at "German Flats," on the western Mo- hawk, where refugees from the war-torn Palatinate of the German Rhine had been settled by Queen Anne of England a generation earlier. In March of 1758 occurred the defeat of the famous ranger, Captain Rogers, when he was intercepted by a superior force of French and Indians near the mountain later named Rogers Rock, over which he escaped in the night after most of his force had been killed or captured in the bitterly contested battle in the woods to the north. 55 The tide of victory began to turn in favor of the British in 1758 when Pitt, the great prime minister, re- called Loudon and appointed General Abercrombie as his successor, sending to America reenforcements of regu- lars and a staff of brilliant officers of achievement, in- cluding Wolfe, Howe and Amherst. In July the forces of Amherst captured Louisburg on Cape Breton Island, the strongest fortress of the French in America. BATTLE OF TICONDEROGA. In June General Abercrombie with a force of 6,000 British regulars and 9,000 colonial militia gathered at the head of Lake George in preparation for an attack on Ticonderoga, where Montcalm was again in command. The troops had been trained in border warfare and gen- eral military efficiency by Lord Howe, the best liked and most promising officer under Abercrombie. On the 5th of July the great flotilla left the lower end of the lake. Next day the troops landed at the head of the outlet so as to march through the woods on the west- ern and northern side, around to Ticonderoga. In the confusion of the forest they encountered an advance force of the French, and in the short skirmish Lord Howe was killed, near "Trout Brook," north of Rogers Rock, at the brook's junction with the outlet. The death of Lord Howe was an irreparable loss to the expedition, for his popularity, enthusiasm and ability were the inspiration of the entire force. The troops returned to Lake George, and from thence marched toward Ticonderoga by way of the "portage" cut through the woods on the eastern side by Levis. They established the main camp at the "Saw 56 Mill," at the foot of the rapids, where Montcalm's camp had been. The French, after determining to fall back on Ticon- deroga, had hastily built a log stockade across the higher ridge west of the fort, with a broad expanse of fallen trees in front, the limbs and twigs sharpened and pointed outward toward the enemy. This the English tried to storm and capture on July 8th with musketry alone, but were several times repused. Thirty-six hundred men were in the fortification, including seven battalions of regulars, among them veterans who had fought on On- tario two summers before. Canadians and Indians guarded the sloping sides of the ridge, or skirmished through the woods along the line of advance of the Eng- lish. The later had made no provision for sites for their artillery, and suffered severely in their attempts to storm the barricade, the attack being pushed gallantly by the regulars, especially the Scotch Highlanders, who were a new element in American warfare. Sir William Johnson with a considerable number of Mohawks accompanied Abercrombie's forces, but did lit- tle more than act as spectators. The Iroquois were still inclined to be neutral in view of past disasters to the English cause. In the series of attacks Abercrombie's forces lost 1,- 950 men, and the French 375. The English army re- treated to the camp at the Falls, and thence in precipitate flight to Fort William Henry and the entrenched camp nearby, urged on by the whoops and wierd cries of the Canadian Indians ranging the woods and shores of the 57 lake. Abercrombie hastened all the sick and wounded south to Fort Edwards and Albany, soon following in person with a large portion of his troops. His men named him "General Nabbycrombie" for his ungallant action. A new camp was constructed on the site of the old fortified camp, from which Captain Rogers and his col- onial rangers operated in the vicinity of French forces toward the north. In turn the French and Indians har- rassed English communications with Fort Edwards and Albany. In August Fort Frontenac on Lake Ontario (Kings- ton), was captured by colonial forces under Colonel Bradstreet, operating from the old site of fortifications at Oswego. But few French were captured, as their for- ces were busy elsewhere. Nine vessels and a great amount of stores and equipment were taken, and this vic- tory, with a judicious distribution of presents, helped to gain the allegiance of the wavering Iroquois, who had given but little aid so far in the war. In October, General Amherst with five regiments of regulars from Louisburg joined Abercrombie at Lake George, but the season was considered too far advanced to renew operations against Ticonderoga and Crown Point. Both French and English commanders, with the larger number of their troops, returned to their respec- tive centers for the winter. In November of 1758 Fort Duquesne on the Ohio was occupied by the forces of General Forbes. This left Ti- 58 conderoga and Crown Point as the center and bulwark of French outposts in North America. BRITISH ADVANCE. General Amherst took command of operations the next year, and in June of 1756 he assembled about 11,000 men, half British regulars and half colonial regiments, at Lake George as part of the plan to reduce all of Can- ada. General Wolf's sea expedition from England against Quebec had arrived before that stronghold in June also. Amherst began the construction of a fort on the old site of the entrenched camp near Fort William Henry, but it was not completed. Ruins of this were in later times shown to tourists as Fort George. On July 21 Am- herst's forces embarked for Ticonderoga, passing the out- let of Lake George by the old portage, and securing fa- vorable positions for artillery fire on the fortifications. On the 23rd Boulamaque, French commander, retreated northward, leaving 400 men in the garrison, and on the 26th these men abandoned the fort after blowing up part of it. The French soon abandoned Crown Point, retreat- ing to Isle-aux-Noix, in the Richelieu a short distance below Champlain, where it had been determined to make the final stand. Many of Amherst's forces were set to rebuilding Crown Point on an extensive scale, exploring the adja- cent woods and waters in all directions, and also building the first road across Vermont to Charlestown on the Connecticut. The saw mill at the "Falls" on the outlet of Lake George was kept busy making planks for Crown 59 Point and for several vessels destined to combat the four French craft on northern Champlain. It was late au- tumn before the craft were completed, and then occurred the first naval battle on Lake Champlain. Captain Lor- ing sailed northward with his little fleet, encountered the French off Valcour Island, drove two of the craft ashore, and the other two retreated down the Richelieu. Am- herst made one attempt to advance on Isle-aux-Noix. His forces were buffeted by headwinds, driven into Ligonier Bay on the west side of the lake, and the expedition was then abandoned. Niagara had fallen to the English in July of 1759, and news reached the colonies two months later that Quebec had been captured by Wolfe's assaulting forces in September, when both gallant commanders, Montcalm and Wolfe, were killed. THE LAST CAMPAIGN. Plans were completed and operations set under way early in 1760 for the final reductions of French strong- holds in Canada. General Amherst was to lead the main body from Oswego down the St. Lawrence to Montreal, Brigadier Haviland was given the task of advancing from Champlain, while General Murray, commander at Quebec, was assigned to move up the St. Lawrence to form a junction with the other forces about Montreal. Havi- land's force of 3,400 regulars, colonials and Indians em- barked at Crown Point in August, proceeding north on Champlain to the fortified Isle-aux-Noix in the Richelieu. Bougainville's force of 1,700 abandoned this place and fell back on St. John, 12 miles down the Richelieu, where 1,- 200 more men were stationed. When Haviland's force GO advanced the French abandoned St. John and Chambly, as their militia forces were fast returning to their homes, owing to Murray's tactics in bringing pressure to bear on the rural population along the St. Lawrence outside of Montreal. When the three forces of the English united success- fully at Montreal in early September, Governor Vaudreuil was compelled to make formal surrender to General Am- herst of all the Canadian dominions claimed by France. While this closed warfare in America, it was not until the treaty of Paris in 1763 that Canada became officially a part of the British Empire, including all the lands of North America east of the Mississippi. By royal proclamation Quebec was set up as a separ- ate province, with its southern boundary, which was to be the northern boundary of the Province of New York, established at the 45th parallel, eastward from the St. Lawrence river to the highlands which separate "the rivers that empty themselves into the said St. Lawrence from those which fall into the sea." This was the same boundary later settled upon by treaty after the American Revolution, though numerous surveys and conferences were necessary to establish the line along the Maine high- lands and to the sea. Throughout the Adirondack region Indian hunters and white trappers resumed their old work of gathering furs, free from terror of warring bands. New fur com- panies were organized in the American colonies as well as in Canada, and while rivalry was keen, there was no longer opportunity to sway the savage nations from one 61 side to another along the northern border. On the west- ern Great Lakes there continued to be trouble and bitter rivalry for years. A great conference of Iroquois chiefs and warriors was held at Sir William Johnson's home in September of 1763 to settle many points of dispute and to pacify some of the western Indians. In his report to the Lords of Trade Johnson outlined the claims of the Iroquois as original proprietors of these lands: "South of Lake On- tario to the great Ridge of the Blew Mountains, with all the western part of the province of New York towards Hudson's River, west of the Caats Kill, thence to Lake Champlain, and from Reghioghne a Rock at the East side of said lake to Oswegatche or La Gattell on the River St. Lawrence (having long since ceded their claims North of said line in favor of the Canada Indians as Hunting ground), thence up the River St. Lawrence and along the south side of Lake Ontario to Niagara." The Iroquois also claimed the vast expanse of territory from western Pennsylvania along the Ohio to the Mississippi, north to the Great Lakes and Ottawa River, and down to Montre- al, as theirs by right of conquest. THE NAME "ADIRONDACK." The name "Adirondack" as applied to the mountains, and later the entire wooded region of lakes and streams, has always been associated with Colden's early history of the Five Nations. He always designated the Algonquins of the lower St. Lawrence as "Adirondacks," and told the story of the ancient feud between these people and the Iroquois, arising from the jealousy of the young Algon- quin warriors over the success of Iroquois companions 62 in a joint hunting expedition. The young Iroquois were murdered in their sleep, and soon hostilities began be- tween the two peoples. Colden repeated the version of his time, that the Iroquois were driven south to central New York, but eventally grew strong and totally annihi- lated the Adirondacks. The name is of Iroquois origin, meaning "bark eaters," a term of derision for their northern enemies, who lived by hunting alone and as a result were often driven to eating buds and inner bark of trees in winter, many starving to death in severe seasons. The northern part of this region was always consid- ered hunting ground for the Canadian Indians, and was recognized as such in the Iroquois treaty mentioned by William Johnson. But it was not until 1842 that Prof. Ebenezer Emmons, State Geologist, called the eastern mountains the "Adirondacks," the name eventually spreading to the entire region. Previous to that time the mountains had been called "Corlears" mountains, "Peruvian" mountains, "Macombs" mountains and "Brown's" mountains, following the land purchases made by the latter two men in the early days of the Republic. The great wooded area was known down to recent times as the "Big Woods" and the "North Woods," and the terms are still used to a small extent. "Couch-saeh-ra-ge" the Iroquois designated the great wilderness area, mean- ing beaver hunting grounds. OUTBREAK OF THE REVOLUTION. From 1763 until the outbreak of the Revolution the rude settlements and clearings of farmers pushed north- ward along the Hudson and in Vermont and New Hamp- shire, while many small trading posts were located along 63 the eastern Adirondack country. But small garrisons, little more than care takers, were left at Crown Point, Ticonderoga and Fort George. Extensive land grants were made along the shores of southern and eastern Champlain. The first adventure in hostilities was when news reached the northern settlements of the fighting around Boston, and then Ethan Allen and his famous Green Mountain Boys on May 10th, 1775, crossed over Lake Champlain to capture Ticonderoga. The surprised offi- cer in command, when summoned to surrender, and when he had inquired by what authority that summons was is- sued, was given that reply so often quoted in school his- tories: "The Continental Congress and the Great Jeho- vah." The powder and guns were soon removed from the fortification, and were welcome additions to the supplies of the Continental militia organized for the siege of Bos- ton, and throughout the colonies. SUPPLIES FOR CONTINENTAL MILITIA. On the day after Ticonderoga was given up, Seth Warner and part of the Green Mountain Boys surprised Crown Point's small garrison of a dozen men, and it was surrendered with all its stores of powder, guns and nu- merous supplies. Fort George on Lake George was also captured from its caretakers on May 16th by Colonel Romans, a member of Ethan Allen's force, with a small number of volunteers recruited at Fort Edwards three or four days previous to the capture. Its supplies were also soon available to the Continental militia, and enabled them to offer effective resistance to the British during the first year of the war. 64 THE AMERICAN INVASION OF CANADA. In the summer of 1775 plans were made by the Amer- ican leaders for a descent upon Montreal and Quebec by the old Champlain-Richelieu route. General Philip Schuy- ler was assigned the task of organizing the forces at Crown Point, and General Richard Montgomery was given command when the advance was started. His ex- pedition was encamped for a while on Isle-La-Motte. In mid-October the fort at Chambly was captured, and then the advancing Continentals laid siege to Fort Johnson. A relief force of British under General Carleton, the Eng- lish governor of Quebec province, was defeated by Seth Warner and a force of the Green Mountain Rangers. A fort was built by Warner at the mouth of the Richelieu to block any further attempt at relief of Fort Johnson, which surrendered November 3rd to General Montgom- ery. The latter's forces then advanced to Montreal, which surrendered November 13th, and then Montgom- ery's men followed the St. Lawrence down to Quebec, where General Benedict Arnold's forces were gathered after their adventuresome journey north through Maine by the old Kennebec-Chaudiere water and portage trail. After General Montgomery was killed on February 13th, 1776, in the attempt to capture the stronghold of Quebec, the siege of that place was continued by General Arnold through the winter. The committee of the Con- tinental Congress, consisting of Benjamin Franklin, Sam- uel Chase and Charles Carroll, appointed to investigate the condition of American troops in Canada, went north by way of Lake Champlain in April of 1776. In June the American forces retreated up the Richelieu to Champlain, 65 reaching Crown Point early in July. The British reoc- cupied their posts on the Richelieu and at the north end of Champlain, building ships to give battle to the revolu- tionary craft. ENCOUNTERS ON LAKE CHAMPLAIN On October 11th the American fleet, under command of Arnold, met the British fleet in the action known as the Battle of Valcour Island. The Royal Savage, Arn- old's ship, entered action first and became separated from the other American boats, being unable on account of the wind to re-enter the battle. Arnold was forced to scuttle the boat oft' the shore of the island, and later in the night the other American boats escaped south. The old hulk of the Royal Savage has been a sight of interest to tourists for generations. On October 13th Captain Pringle's British fleet overtook the American craft oft the Vermont shore, at Arnold's Bay, four miles south of Westport. The American boats were forced to run ashore, where Arnold and his men, after setting the hulls aflame, walked through the woods south to Crown Point. CONTEST FOR INDIAN AID. So far in the war there had been but little activity along the northern border by the old masters of this territory, the Iroquois Indians. The English agents from Canada and the "Loyalist" element among the set- tlers endeavored to obtain their support, while the Con- tinental generals and officials tried to gain at least the neutrality of the redskins, if not active aid. Sir William Johnson, most influential friend of the Iroquois, had died at his home at Johnstown in July of 1774. He was suc- 66 ceeded by his nephew and son-in-law, Colonel Sir Guy Johnson. In 1775 the latter held councils at Fort Stan- wix and Oswego to gain Indian support. His secretary and influential aid was Joseph Brant, brother of Molly Brant, the late Commissioner's Mohawk Indian wife. Some of the Iroquois and northern Indians were enlisted at Montreal, while the agents of the revolting colonies secured the neutrality and later considerable support from the Iroquois settled at Caughnawaga. Other coun- cils held by Americans at Albany and German Flats to secure neturality produced little results. In May of 1776 Sir John Johnson, son and heir of Sir William Johnson, fled from his home at Johnstown to Canada with a few Indian guides and about 250 of the "Loyalists" among his servants or those who had set- tled on nearby lands. They went by way of the west- ern Adirondack woods route through the chain of central lakes to the Oswegatchie and St. Lawrence. In the bat- tle of the Cedars in May of 1776 the Mohawks alone fought against the colonists. The Continental Congress passed a resolution giving 12 blank commissions to prom- inent Indians, and other rewards for the capture of Brit- ish officers and privates. General Schuyler and some oth- er leaders of the Revolution opposed using the Indians. Colonel Daniel Claus, of Johnson's family, was made British commissioner of the Indians recruited in Canada for the war, whose depredations under Joseph Brant along the northern and western frontier were felt se- verely until General Sullivan made his memorable and devastating punative raid through the Iroquois country of western New York in 1779. 67 BURGOYNE'S INVASION. The plan of the English to reduce New York by three expeditions was put into effect in 1777. Burgoyne was to advance by way of the Richelieu and Lake Champlain to Albany, General Clinton's forces were to advance up the Hudson from New York, while Lieut. Col. St. Ledger with Colonel Claus and his Indians were to gather at Carleton Island on the St. Lawrence and at Oswego for an advance to Albany by the Mohawk route. General Burgoyne's forces advanced south on Cham- plain in June to Ticonderoga, and laid siege to the fort, mounting a strong battery on Sugar Loaf or Mount De- fiance. General St. Clair, American commander, was forced to evacuate the fort and the strong entrenchments on Mount Independence on the opposite Vermont shore on July 6th. Part of his forces retreated south through the narrow reaches of the lake to Skenesboro, now White- hall, pursued by the British fleet, which had broken the great boom of logs and iron links stretched across from Ticonderoga to the Vermont entrenchments. Then Bur- goyne continued his advance south, toward Fort Edward, by way of Woods Creek rather than by way of Lake George, the better route. In doing this he lost time that had an important influence in subsequent actions. On July 8th an engagement was fought with part of the American rearguard at Hubbardstown. The British continued their advance. Col. Brown and Col. Warren of the American forces tried to capture some of the Brit- ish supplies stored on Diamond Island in Lake George on July 24th, but were defeated and compelled to run their boats ashore and burn them on the eastern side 68 of the lake. The first battle of Saratoga, or the battle of Bemis Heights, was fought on September 19th, near the present site of Schuylerville, where Burgoyne attacked an en- trenched position of the Americans under General Gates with no decided results, but with the loss of several hun- dred men on each side. Friction between General Arnold and General Gates resulted in the former requesting and being given permission to return to Philadelphia, but his brother officers persuaded him to remain, believing his ability much superior to that of Gates. When Burgoyne resumed his advance and attacks, Arnold with Morgan and Poor on October 7th in a series of courageous charges broke up the British line and compelled a retreat. Burgoyne reorganized his forces at Schuylerville, but with all aid and supplies cut off was not able to advance or hold out. On October 17th he surrendered to General Gates, — one of the most important victories of the Revo- lution and far reaching in its effect upon American re- sistance and determination. St. Ledger with his ad- vancing whites and Indians was defeated at Fort Stan- wix, or Schuyler, and Oriskany, and forced to retreat to Oswego and the St. Lawrence. General Clinton was un- able to advance north from New York, so the ambitious plan of dividing the colonies was frustrated. RAIDS OF THE IROQUOIS. Some of the Mohawk Iroquois had accompanied the forces of Burgoyne, but were nearly all driven away b;, the harsh treatment of the British commissioner. In March of 1778 American officials held a council with Iro 69 quois chiefs and warriors at Johnstown. The Oneidas and Tuscaroras were generally friendly, and remained so during the war. General La Fayette was present as a representative of Washington's staff, to secure the forts at Cherry Valley and Schoharie. The raid on Cobleskill in May of 1778 was led by Joseph Brant, the Mohawk, and resulted in the killing of a number of settlers and the defeat of a small band of Continentals who came to the rescue. The massacres of Cherry Valley and Wyom- ing were directed by Major Butler and Brant, with sev- eral hundred Indians and a few British and Loyalist vol- unteers. Some of the Indian bands used the Adirondack region as a safe retreat from plundering and scalping expeditions, while others were maintained at Oswegatchie and Carleton on the St. Lawrence, or at Oswego or Buf- falo forts. After General Sullivan destroyed 40 of the western Iroquois villages and 200,000 bushels of their corn in the summer of 1779, the Iroquois felt that they were a broken people, and thenceforth relied almost en- tirely upon the British forces in Canada for food and clothing. The peace negotiations of 1782, followed by the form- al treaty of 1783, suspended fear of further raids along the northern boundary. Settlers and traders again drew northward, cutting farms out of the dense woods and building pioneer settlements. INDIAN LAND TREATIES. By a formal treaty at Fort Stanwix in 1784 the Iro- quois claims to lands in New York were outlined, and settlement made for those taken over at the time. The claims of the Oneidas were granted to a larger extent 70 than in the days when the Federation was united. Other nations, especially the Mohawks remaining in New York as well as those of Canada represented by delegates, suf- fered in their claims for extensive lands and compensa- tion. Marquis de La Fayette also attended this confer- ence with the chiefs of the old Federation. The Mohawk warriors and their families remained on the American side of Niagara for a while, and then General Haldimand, governor of Canada, made them an extensive grant on the Grand River in Ontario, where chiefs and warriors of all six nations still live and pre- serve many of their ancient laws and customs, including hereditary chieftanships. Joseph Brant went to Eng- land in 1785 and was able to secure compensation from the British government for losses of the Mohawks in the English service. The Mohawks in Canada gave formal release of their claims to northern New York in 1798. In the far northwest of the ancient " Adirondack" hunting grounds, along both sides of the international boundary line where it touches the St. Lawrence, are to be found today the St. Regis-Mohawks, descendants of the original owners of the Mohawk river territory and east- ern Adirondack region. This reservation was orginally settled, according to the best Indian traditions and rec- ords, in 1760 by the two Tarbell brothers and a Jesuit missionary Gordon, who led a number of Caughnawaga Mohawks from their settlement near Montreal. Under the land act of the New York Legislature in 1787, em- powering the land commissioners to sell all unappropri- ated lands, the vast sale of 3,800,000 acres of northern mountains and wilderness was made in 1791 to Alexander 71 Macomb, former fur trader of Detroit, and father of General Macomb of the war of 1812. Out of this pur- chase was excepted six miles square for the use of In- dians settled on the border, at the St. Lawrence river. By subsequent treaties and releases this land was cut down and other small reservations on the Salmon and Grass rivers were eliminated, the State paying compen- sation and a yearly indemnity. There are yet about 14,- 000 acres on this St. Regis reservation, where Mohawk farmers still maintain their chieftanships. In April of 1886 the general council of the Six Nations held at Cold Springs formally admitted the St. Regis Indians into the Federation in place of the ancient Iroquois Mohawks. It is interesting to note that today on the several Iroquois reservations in New York, Wisconsin and Canada there are as many Iroquois living as in the days of their great- est numbers and importance in border warfare, accord- ing to estimates of Rev. W. M. Beauchamp and other au- thorities on Iroquois history and customs. From the close of the Revolution to the outbreak of the war of 1812-14 the Lake George-Champlain country was settled rapidly by sturdy bands of pioneers, a large proportion of them being veterans of the Revolutionary armies or navy. Small towns and hamlets grew up along both New York and Vermont shores, where young farm- ers from the earlier New England and New York settle- ments sought the cheaper lands offered by large proprie- tors or land company grantees. On the north of the Adirondacks the clearings began to circle the great moun- tain barrier toward the western St. Lawrence valley, where New England farmers were largely pioneers in settlement. 72 WAR OF 1812-14. Soon after war was declared in June of 1812 defen- sive measures were taken along Champlain, to strengthen Crown Point, Plattsburgh, Burlington and other places where military supplies were available or raids might be expected from the British at the north end of the lake. In 1813 occurred the engagement between British gun- boats and the "Growler" and "Eagle," under command of Lieut. Smith, sent north by Lieut. Thomas McDonough to prevent raids on small craft. The British craft were pursued down the Richelieu to Isle-aux-Noix, but here fortune was reversed and the American ships were cap- tured by superior forces. The British renamed the boats "Finch" and "Chub," and they appeared in later action against the Americans. In 1814 a British expedition under Sir George Pre- vost, Governor-General of Canada, was formed to in- vade New York under the old plan of campaign adopted by Burgoyne. In August Brigadier General Macomb was at Plattsburg as commander of the American forces, with some 1,500 men available, a larger force of about 4,000 having been ordered to Niagara to aid General Ja- cob Brown in his western operations. When news reached Macomb of the advance by the British across the border, the available militia and all volunteers from near- by counties and from Vermont were hastened to Platts- burg, where a strong position had been formed on the south side of the Saranac river, protected by the bay on the east and a ravine on the west. 73 BATTLE OF PLATTSBURG. About 2,500 men were available for resistance to Pre- vost's advancing regiments of 14,000 veterans. The lat- ter crossed the northern border and from the first to the sixth of September advanced south, meeting opposition from American skirmishers, including the volunteer corp of boys too young to enter the militia. Bridges were de- stroyed and obstruction placed in the roads. From Sep- tember 6th to the 11th Prevost brought up and placed in position considerable artillery for the attack on the American position, containing Forts Brown, Scott and Moreau, with blockhouses and well-placed batteries. Then several attempts were made by the British to cross the Saranac, under cover of a heavy fire of artillery and rockets, but all attempts were repulsed. On the 12th the entire British force began its retreat north to the Cana- dian territory, leaving the sick and wounded and quanti- ties of baggage and supplies. Many of the disgusted British veterans deserted and some 500 were brought in by the pursuing Americans. Prevost was ordered be- fore a court martial for his conduct, but died before trial. On the lake the American fleet under Commodore Macdonough fought an equally brilliant and decisive en- gagement. Early in the spring the flagship "Saratoga" had been constructed on the Vermont shore near Ver- gennes in just 40 days from the time the trees were felled in the forest. Macdonough's fleet was carefully an- chored in Plattsburg bay, with spring lines out to the anchors for warping into better firing position, and kedge anchors ready to run out when necessary. The fleet consisted of the Saratago, the brig Eagle, the schoon- 74 er Ticonderoga, the sloop Preble and ten gunboats or large galleys. MACDONOUGH'S VICTORY ON CHAMPLAIN. On the morning of September 11th, Captain George Downie, British fleet commander, sailed south from Ise- La Motte and into the bay with the flagship Confidence, the brig Linnet, the Chub, Finch and twelve large gal- leys. The armament of the two fleets was about even, while the British sailors numbered about 1,000 and the Americans 800. The American fleet was anchored south of the outlet of the Saranac, beyond range of the shore batteries, with the flagship's bow toward Cumberland head, the other boats being in line toward Crab Island. Commander Macdonough held devotional services in the early morning, and then prepared to receive the advanc- ing British fleet, sighting and firing the first gun on the Saratoga. The engagement lasted until both fleets were well splintered, and the result was a total defeat for the British, who lost to Macdonough a frigate, a brig and two sloops of war, as he reported to the secretary of the navy. Following the double victory on land and water Gen- eral Macomb and Commodore Macdonough were given many public receptions and testimonials in Plattsburg, Burlington, New York and other cities where the decisive results of this action were so keenly appreciated after all the bungling and inefficiency exhibited during the war elsewhere. This was the last invasion of American lands by hostile British forces. Following the treaty of Ghent, signed on December 2nd, 1814, the tide of settlement and trade again swung north and west in the Adirondack country. As the set- tlements advanced, the mountains and woods became de- pleted as a source of profit for the great number of In- dian and white trappers, but gained in reputation as a healthful and inspiring resort for tourists, amateur hunters and summer campers. WHERE HEALTH AND RECREATION ABOUND. Today on nearly every lake shore will be found camps and hotels, cottages and tents, from the magnificently equipped hostleries of the larger resorts to the little "lean-to" of some adventure-loving summer visitor. The reputation of the Adirondack region has become inter- national, as perhaps the most distinctive natural feature of eastern North America. It draws visitors and health seekers from all parts of America and Europe. Its splen- did system of State roads, railroads and boat routes make an ideal combination for summer guests, who are at- tracted year after year by some charm of scenery or cli- mate, or opportunity for hunting or fishing. The general elevation of the region is about 2,000 feet, and it contains over 1,200 named lakes, rivers and streams. Five rather distinct mountain ranges traverse the eastern section, beginning north of the Mohawk and running northeasterly toward Champlain and the Cana- dian border. The great central group of mountain peaks is in the westernmost of these five ranges, the highest be- ing Mount Marcy, or Tahawus, its Indian name, 5,344 feet. In the vicinity are the bold and picturesque heights of Mclntyre, Haystack, Whiteface, Seymour, Ampersand, Clinton, Saddle Back, Seward and others. Beyond the 76 central plateau of lakes and streams rise another group of lesser mountains and wooded hills in the west, forming the last barrier before the waters fall away toward the St. Lawrence and Lake Ontario. Throughout the entire region are found numerous specimens of northern trees, especially of the evergreen varieties. The Adirondack region is part of the Canadian Laurentian formation, the oldest known to geologists. To the botanist, the geolo- gist or the student and lover of birds and animals there is always offered a wide opportunity for observation and entertainment. The Adirondacks seem destined to be a perpetual storehouse of health, wealth and recreation for the people of the State and Nation. 77 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 00141142343 *