;.;5«ii;ltilli,l}}liili' 0^'' ■'."■' ■ jiilMii^iiiiiiii*; 'W ;.M>;': WHAT MARJORIE SAW ABROAD What Marjorie Saw Abroad BY MRS. DAVID GAMBLE MURRELL Author of The White Castle of Louisiana New York and Washington THE NEALE PUBLISHING COMPANY .1906 LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two Copies Received OCT 31 1906 ^ Copyrietit Er Oii.Al: . CLASS A XXc.i No 5!»< ^ Copyright, 1906, by COKNELIA RANDOLPH MURRELL ^ ^ I dedicate this hooh to tHose less for- tunate, with the hope that its contents will prove a source of enjoyment hy bringing, in a measure, the pleasures described therein to their door. INTRODUCTION This little volume is only to relate wliat trav- elers will be apt to enjoy most, the folklore and a pleasant trip — a sort of help to those seeking information for which they might blunder around, and waste time, in not knowing what was worth while. Guide-books are plentiful, and useful, but it is a fine idea to have a general knowledge be- forehand; for one is often too tired, when trav- eling, too excited or impatient to dive down into the intricacies of such books more than super- ficially at the right time, and does not care to be burdened with more than what one can just get along with. Thinking of this, I wondered if tourists did not want a light book they could read at leisure before starting and gather some idea as to what they wanted most to see ; or if those who never intended going, from fear of the ocean or lack of means, did not wish a something which could keep them in touch with the outside world. Yet it is not intended for a guide-book — only a forerunner. Guide-books can be purchased along the way and referred to, but are read to better advantage later in quiet and leisure, 7 8 Introduction wlnich is almost equal to taking a second trip in tlie pleasure the revival imparts. It might be well for the youth of our schools to use or read this book along with their studies. It would familiarize them with the main parts of the Old World and bear rich fruit later in life if such a trip be taken. My best apology for it is the kindness with which my neighbors listened to my tale of won- ders ; they being more than usually enlightened ; always struggling to know the latest and best, which means progress. I felt as if it might please others, especially those who remain at home, and help those who know not the ropes when setting out, having to pick and choose the best — ^in the haste of sightseeing — from the sumptuous dish set before them. The Authoe. WHAT MAEJOEIE SAW ABROAD CHAPTER I ''It is utterly impossible!" shouted Ms Maj- esty. ^ ^ It can 't be done ! ' ' ''Why can't it?" inquired the Countess, mildly. ** Because my business will suffer, and I have not the money!" said he, crossly. '^Make up your mind and the money will come," persisted she. No answer but a grunt. ** Your health will suffer and injure your busi- ness, ' ' pleaded she. **My health is not so bad," he growled. ''You have been ill at times for six months, and each time you have had a harder spell," said she. "I'll have to borrow the money," said he, ' ' and it will take four or five years to pay it back." The Countess smiled to herself. She knew he had plenty of property. She knew no good busi- ness man ever kept a lot of cash lying around idle, and what if he did borrow? She also knew he made enough every year to go for the whole summer if he would quit speculating. He took a hand in every enterprise which came along, 11 12 What Marjorie Saw ^hroad just for tHe excitement of it, sHe sometimes thonght. Hoping to Mt a Hundred thousand — lie thought — or something which might lead up to it. Her efforts to get him off seeming futile, as soon as he got out of the way she sat down and wrote to the Princess and suggested a visit- suggested numerous ways, Delilah-like, though in a better cause, by which she and the Princess could prevail upon him to take the step — ^to go abroad. !^ ; ' The Princess had been abroad, in fact, had lived in the charming atmosphere of Italy and other foreign countries for many months, and was fully capable of assisting the Countess in depicting all the beauties and advantages of such a trip, besides the benefit of rest on the ship and the complete change. The Countess, on the other hand, had never been abroad, but had read enough to converse astonishingly on the subject; and, knowing his Majesty had great love for the beautiful and a high appreciation of the excellencies of life, she took heart and hoped to arrange matters to suit herself. So the Princess came. With her blandish- ments, abetted by the Countess, she had the dear man actually consenting to leave his busi- ness for four months to take a pleasure trip. Ah ! that was success on Her part and that of the Countess. When Marjorie, their only child, returned What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 13 from school for vacation, she was told to help the household get ready for the trip. Meantime, the Princess had gone home to in- form her family of the determination, and while they are packing their trmiks and filling the valises and hand-bags with every conceivable article for their comfort, we have a chance to learn something about this quartette just about to visit the Old World. His Majesty is by no means a king, as his title implies. He is a plain American citizen, with a long tail of worthy ancestors, however, of whom he knew, but — unlike many — of whom he never boasted. Still, he had the manner of a lord and the presence of a somebody, always taking the lead in conversation and otherwise, and does not exactly know how it came about, but he was called his Majesty by the family; not in ridicule, nor in sarcasm, but the term seemed to fit, and, as I do not wish to give his real name, I shall call him this throughout the book. Strange to say, the Countess was his Majes- ty's wife, and yet retained her title. It was in this way: She always had many pretensions to beauty, and she had dreams for the future when young; for her head was held high, though her heart was good; her bearing, though natural, showed pride ; and her clothes fitted her well, she wearing the finest at all times which could be bought, if it did not exceed the limit of her purse. She was honest. And in her family some 14 What Marjorie Saw Abroad member remarked that she ought to be * ^ a coun- tess''; she held herself so. From that day to this the Countess she was. When she met his Majesty her world said, ^* Here's a mate for the Countess"; and so it turned out, and they seemed happy forever after, as the folks in the fairy tale. Now, the Princess was a dear friend of the Countess ; in fact, they were once schoolmates — and every one knows what that means. It was no more than natural that she should help her friend out. The Princess was a Northern woman, but few would suspect it. Her father and many of her relations had known the Countess 's father, who lived in the extreme South of the United States. Constant intercourse had rubbed off all the dis- tinction of Northern and Southern, and they seemed like one family, so united were they. The Princess was some years younger than the Countess, but any girl who lays claim to any attractions at all will understand how at board- ing-school a younger girl admires an older, mak- ing the latter an idol to follow and worship; thus it was with the Princess. And the Countess returned the aif ection warmly, but not until she was fully developed did the Countess begin to call her ^* Princess." The name was given her by another friend as well as the Countess — neither knowing the other had done so. And she had the manner and tastes of a Princess. A handsome lass, the Princess, with wonderful What Marjorie Saw Abroad 15 sweetness and magnetism, a gay manner and a brave heart. She also loved the beautiful, and her gowns were a pleasure to see. Now Marjorie said, for the sake of keeping up the delusion, they ought to give her a title, or strangers might imagine she was the maid. The Countess chuckled, for with all her elegance she had a merry temper. The beautiful, win- some, arrogant Marjorie taken for a maid! She was more like a ripe, rosy, luscious peach of the purest quality than anything she could think of at that time. But Marjorie was her daughter — hers and his Majesty's — and mothers are par- tial, of course. Marjorie was not altogether enthused at go- ing abroad. She thought she ought to wait till she was out of school, but made no demur, as she was afraid it might be her only chance ; so she went to work with a will. She had a trunk ; the Countess and his Majesty had one together; then there were two steamer trunks — one his Majesty and the Countess shared together, and one for Marjorie. The Countess had been grad- ually getting ready for several months, hoping the tide would turn her way, and if it did not, she could use all she had acquired at home, she argued with herself, putting off the ship outfit till the taking of the trip was settled. Each had a valise and a hand-bag of good, stout leather. Shawls, heavy clothes (for the northern route is cold) , light rubbers, second-best suits, pillows and such articles were put in the steamer trunks, 16 What Marjorie Saw Abroad getting the last in New York, where they were for several days before leaving. In the valises the ladies had any number of shirtwaists of all thicknesses ; a nice traveling heavy suit ; a nice traveling black silk suit with low waist and over- skirt to match, and other embellishments for evening; a handsome afternoon waist to wear with the black silk skirt, and all the little addi- tions, particularly neck ribbons and ties, which make ladies so attractive, as well as the other necessary clothes. Perhaps you will say, *^0h, my, what a lot to put in one valise ! ' ' But try it. It gives one a great deal of comfort, going from place to place, and the trunks need not be car- ried to every point. The Countess thought it would be a good idea to put in one hand-bag all the medicines and whisky (needed in traveling), with the drinking- cup and other articles it would not hurt to get wet should the contents spill out. Marjorie dressed the camphor, the pepper- mint, the antiseptic — she had heard there were fleas and tarantulas in Italy, but did not see one — and other bottles in gingham to keep them from cracking if they happened to get all in a bunch in the bag, putting them as erect as pos- sible, steadying them with washrags (so need- ful), after writing in ink the name of each on the outside and seeing that good stoppers with handles had been put in. It is worth while say- ing that this bag was quite useful all along. What Marjorie Saw Abroad 17 She had embroidered her father's crest in gold in a large design upon his black satin ship pillow, and her mother's in appropriate colors on her satin pillow, when his Majesty came along and said he had no idea of making any such display — he was going as an American citizen. So Marjorie had to buy more black satin, making a cushion of the crested pieces and leaving it at home, where her father said was the proper place for it. On the new pieces she worked the monogram of each, and the pil- lows looked very nice. She had never liked to lounge much, and had made none for herself, of which she was very glad, as her father seemed comfortable without any, and she used his, which rested the hollow of her back when read- ing in the stiff deck chairs, and there were only two to look after. A hat she fortunately brought with her, turned up behind, she found most comfortable in the reclining position. Marjorie had been carefully bred, but she was not straight-laced. She did not consult, but she consulted with her parents. She had a will and opinions of her own, and had never been ^^sat down on," as the saying is, his Majesty and the Countess meet- ing her youthful and inexperienced suggestions as though they were worthy of consideration, drawing her out and leading her on, never ridi- culing or looking shocked, though he was pretty decided in his ideas of right and wrong, and she — ^no power on earth could get her to be un- 18 What Marjorie Saw Abroad true. All were of the English Church, as their forefathers had been, and had the faith well grounded in. At the age of eleven Marjorie once had the rashness to say in her parents^ presence that there were so many different kinds of religions, and so few seemed to carry out any of them, that one hardly knew what to believe, and that she would study out the Christ and try to be led by Him whom every one could but admit had followed out His own fine line of conduct. This resolve, this awakening to the ways of the world, astonished her parents. Marjorie was so merry all the time that no one imagined such germs were working in her brain. She was so ambi- tious, too, and inherited to a great extent her mother's taste in dress. After she once got her clothes on she never thought of them. They fell naturally and gracefully around her, giving her a chic look which pleased every one; but if she found a beggar entertaining she would not mind his clothes. She laid great stress on the heart and intel- lect, which are good to have sometimes in abun- dance, but which do not often run together in one body, or always bring happiness to the indi- viduals possessing them. This superiority over others increases the obligations to those less gifted. However, we like some for their mental ca- pacity, and others for their amiable qualities — thus runs the world away — ^until we find some What Marjorie Saw Abroad 19 with both attributes well blended. Presto ! the world looks brighter while they are with us, life is worth living ; we awake early in the morning and follow our daily vocations with cheerful- ness ; we have an object in life, a mutual inter- est, and it seems so necessary to put sensible boys and girls where they can find many com- panions and single out congenial ones for their intimates — it develops, it broadens, it strength- ens, it cheers. Marjorie had lived in the suburbs of a large Southern city, but she was not confined to this. Since her early childhood she had gone all over the United States with her parents on their sum- mer trips — even to Mexico and Canada in her later years — and altogether was very well in- formed and a very nice child. She was sixteen, but did not wear her hair in a plait down her back ; she wore it pompadour, with a curly mist on her brow, and twisted in a chatelaine behind. Southern girls mature early, and she was too tall for the plait coiffure. The Princess knew the Italian language very well; the Countess, French; Marjorie had paid considerable attention to German in her young life, and his Majesty said he could *^talk Ameri- can''; so they considered themselves well enough equipped on that score. If one does not have the command of languages, a little knowl- edge of this sort assists in one's escaping being cheated unmercifully at shops, led astray on trains and tramways or railroad cars, and en- 20 What Marjorie Saw Abroad ables one to have a correct understanding of what one sees on the way. His Majesty said, after he had sampled them, that England English was almost as hard to understand as the other languages he came in contact with. CHAPTEE II On reaching New York, from which place they were to take the ship, the Princess met them. His Majesty was not at all well at this time, and doubted the propriety of going, but braced him- self up for it with a will, knowing the sea, which he loved, was good medicine. Aftar purchasing the necessary ship outfit — the passage having been secured six weeks be- fore — and having the tags *^ Wanted" tied on their stateroom baggage, they went to the ship, where ^^Not wanted,'' on a slip of paper, was pasted on the trunks for the hold. All their baggage had the owner 's nanje on the outside. Details are tedious, and one day on board will suffice, with other incidents, as the days are very much alike. Having reached the ship at Hobo- ken piers an hour before it started, and gotten out their rugs, wraps, and all needful to make them comfortable, they were well settled in their chairs, which were insured to them for a dollar apiece, as well as their location, to the end of the trip, before starting. Their early arrival also gave them an oppor- tunity to watch the bustle of getting ready ; the departure; the receding houses; the little skiff 31 22 What Marjorie Saw Abroad in wliicli the man came to give and take any mail; to feel to the fullest the novelty, the tremor of uncertainty, as one notices the ocean swell and views nothing but the vast expanse of water ahead. One feels safe, however, on per- ceiving the almost military rule of the officials. A man sits away up in a box on a stout pole, watching. Every hour he is relieved by another as the bell taps. It is fun to see one man run up one tall ladder to take the place of the man already there, and who as quickly skips down a second. On the upper deck the captain and somo trusty officers with the proper instruments are ever watching. No one allowed here— but by invitation — to disturb the tenor of their thoughts. Marjorie and her party were invited up for half an hour. Far down on the lower deck the steerage passengers aired themselves, looking cheerful enough, especially the children when deck passengers threw candy down for them to scramble for and make merry over. The staterooms were comfortable, though they thought the narrow beds hard. The sea air made them sleep well, spite of their hardness. Attached to each bunk was a railing a foot high, for rough weather. The top sheet was sewed up like a bag and a blanket tied down in it. The washstands shut up like a writing-desk, and were very convenient. In discussing the merits or demerits of the rooms, the Princess said the Countess 's room was so large, compared to hers and others, she thought they might have a party What Marjorie Saw Abroad 23 in it. The Princess liked a little party, and gave one later in an open place on the ship, having tea and cake at five o'clock. They were on board nearly ten days, but the sea was not rough much at any time, which Mar- jorie pretended was due to her birthday ring, a simple gold band with an amethyst set flat in. Her birthday was the 14th of February, and the stone was the appropriate one for that month. She laughingly said it had already shown its true worth as a talisman, she having gone in bathing once at Old Point Comfort, Virginia, and lost it in the water. Her father said he would look for it while she went to dress for lunch. At his feet a wave rolled — he had seen her bathing and knew where to go — and as he looked into the sand, when the wave receded it left a new set of false teeth, which he stooped and picked up, and was just about to turn and go to the office with the teeth, where he thought they might be claimed by the owner, when he observed another wave coming, and he thought he would wait for one more wave. And, lo! there was Marjorie 's ring. Imagine her delight with its additional value. It was ten A.M. when they started for the Old World on the ship. At eleven, still sitting on deck, they were served, from little cups, a consomme by the deck steward, his assistant fol- lowing with sliced cured tongue and beef sand- wiches. About this time the band struck up on deck. At one P.M. the bugle blew for lunch. 24 What Marjorie Saw "jihroad This was served downstairs in the dining-room, in the front of the ship, and was more elaborate than any e very-day land dinner. At four P.M. lemonade and cake were handed on deck by the same waiters who served the eleven o'clock meal. At six-thirty the bugle blew, and all who desired retired to make ready for dinner at seven, when the bugle blew again, and the band played somewhere near the dining- room. The dinner was conducted in style. About twenty-four persons sat at the longest tables, which were three in a row, in the central part of the saloon. Each of these tables had four waiters, and the party sat at one of them. The waiters were gloved, and did their part admir- ably. The dining-room steward stood near the door, inside, and superintended affairs. If one wished, meals were sent to the room at the touch of an electric bell. The ices at dinner were usually very tasteful ; all from New York, enough to go and return with. One evening there was a pink dove on a green plot ; another time, two sleighs — ^made of cake — holding blocks of cream; and the last night each person had a German flag stuck on a pin in the cream as a souvenir, for the ship belonged to the Norddeutscher Lloyd. Dinner always lasted an hour and a half. At seven- thirty A.M. again the bugle sounded to awaken those who wanted to rise for an eight o'clock breakfast. Not many attended. The passen- What Marjorie Saw Abroad 25 gers, the ladies especially, preferred to rise at their pleasure. There were salt baths, hot or cold ; the stew- ardess came and went to make ready at the touch of a bell. Also fresh- water baths for those who liked them. The stewardess was very use- ful, helping the ladies dress, or combing their hair, and, as already mentioned, fixing the bath. There were several of them. One gives the one waiting on her two and a half dollars at the beginning of the trip, and as much again before getting off. This answers for the first deck steward, too; the second deck steward gets about a dollar, also the two waiters on one's side of the table. The dining-room steward gets about two and a half dollars — at least, pas- sengers usually give these amounts to insure comfort and to be free of annoyance. They met other vessels, which kept them in touch with the world, and the sight of a vessel was a joyful event. The whole ship halloed, and those who had them leveled their binoculars to draw it as near as possible. There were all sorts of surmises as to why their ship went so slowly; but well it was for the passengers, for only one became sick. Some said the captain had orders to go slowly because there was a coal strike on, and it takes an enormous amount of coal to go fast. Others said they thought it was a family ship, and slow by nature, to accommo- date people who did not like to be rolled about. The promenade deck is the greatest feature 26 What Marjorie Saw Abroad of a ship. "Wide and smootli, it serves as a sit- ting-room, lounging place, library — thongh all these rooms are on a good sMp such as this — and a street to walk on. One gets restless hemmed in by water only, and tramps the deck like a caged lion or lioness. There were two days of fog, and the captain, who was very social, disappeared. The foghorn blew every five minutes until the fog vanished, then the captain turned up again. One night there was a concert for the benefit of the sailors, the different musical guests con- tributing. On two occasions a portion of the promenade deck was covered with canvas and decorated with flags, while the passengers were at dinner, to give a ball in. The captain had it done as a surprise. Marjorie wondered at the great mugs of beer, three in each hand, each holding a quart, she saw the deck steward carry- ing to the musicians as she flitted in and out the dance in graceful sway. More than once these glasses were filled. But she did not know Germans and the German beer. It is good, and mild, and they were accustomed to it from their childhood. The captain was a genial, little, fat, blue-eyed man, who flirted his coat-tails as he led the grand march previous to the dancing on the nights of the balls. He was trusty, too. On his return to the Faderland the Kaiser was to re- ward him with a medal for some daring feat hQ had led in rescuing a ship, . What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 27 All in all, a good ship is an excellent place to spend a week or two if one does not feel the motion too much. The night before the ship landed the captain announced the lighthouse on English soil, and all were jubilant. Next day they encountered the Needles, some natural rough stones before the Isle of Wight, on the way to Southampton. It took several hours to land from the little boat the passengers for Southampton were put oif on, as the ship went on to Bremen, Germany. Marjorie had risen early that morning and gone out to see how the land lay, but there was very little of it. However, she saw a glorious sunrise. All was gold — the sky, the tips of things, the water fairly dazzling, changing mir- rors of it; the clouds afar; the deck and all na- ture. The iJVive air itself vibrated with the golden sheen, and she fled from the glamour of its beauty. His Majesty felt much better, and discussed it with his party whether they should go to the Isle of Wight, some acquaintances on the ship. having mentioned it as an interesting place to visit ; but Osborne was not open to the tourist, and they concluded to remain in South- ampton a few days, stopping at the Badly Hotel. A quaint city they found Southampton. The remains of Canute's house, worked into a more modern one, took them far back into English history. The old city wall, dated A. D. 1400, with its tower, steps and trees, was quite charm- 28 What Marjorie Saw 'Abroad ing, and the ladies showed their appreciation of it by each taking a snapshot. Next day they went to Lyndhnrst, driving through a beantiful way and getting fascinating glimpses of the country as they merrily bowled along, arriving there for lunch. They were told that it was once a ducal home, now a resort, but charming in the extreme. Back yards and stables were so hidden by walls and undergrowth one would never be aware of their presence in exploring did not an upstairs window bear down on them. Over the south front a magnolia tree, then in bloom, was sprawled and twisted like a vine instead of having a trunk and stiff limbs. Here the garden was luxuriant, the tennis court near the house and bordered with small flowers ; the larger flowers and trees beyond; a hedge or wall all around; no neighbor's yard was vis- ible. Inside there was such an air of refinement and repose, Marjorie pictured to herself the old Duke sitting about with the family and friends, carriages coming and going through the hand- some gates on the north front; the merrymak- ing; the good cheer attending such commotions. And it was with a sigh of regret she left the greenhouse, bearing into the dining-room, to continue the drive to New Forest, where stands the monument marking the spot on which Will- iam Rufus of England fell when he was acci- dentally ( 1) shot by an arrow sent by his friend Walter. Proper inscriptions are traced on the What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 29 triangular upright stone, and the beautiful trees, the stillness, the romantic aspect, brought the whole scene to Marjorie 's mind — the king, the friend, the deer, all had their places in the drama as she conceived it, and she was pleased with herself for having remembered enough of her English history to make it so realistic to her. Leaving this place, other sights crowded their thoughts, such as English villages with thatched roofs and tangled gardens bring. Nearing one house, Marjorie begged his Majesty to stop the carriage — she must see inside of it. ^'Why, Marjorie, it would not be decent to ask those people to let us see the inside of their house. ' ^ *^0h, papa, we won't put it that way; we will stand outside the gate and tell them how lovely the yard is, how pretty the children are whom you see with the lady by the wild rose bush ; then we will admire the house, so they will ask us in; then we will beg leave to photo the whole thing, and they will be so pleased over this it will not seem rude," Marjorie said, as fast as she could, for fear of getting his assent too late, or after they had passed. But the carriage had stopped now, at the Princess's bidding, for she and the Countess wanted to take photographs. For answer to Marjorie 's entreaties his Majesty had looked at the Countess and Princess, who both signaled yes to his inquiring eyes. After walking around outside, and taking a picture or 30 What Marjorie Saw Abroad two, the three ladies were invited inside the gate, and did as Marjorie had said in such a skilful manner that they were taken even into the stables, where were twelve lovely Jerseys, each having her name hung up on a board in front of her stall. They were being milked by the man of the place. When the Princess came to one bearing her name she proclaimed it to the smiling Englishwoman, pulled it off the wooden peg and waltzed all around with it, giv- ing the other Princess a hug and a pat that made the gentle beast blink her soft eyes. When, later, they were conducted to the dairy, on the opposite side — the house proper being in the middle — the Countess said truthfully she had never seen so many large bowls of milk covered with such rich cream outside of a creamery. Whereupon the good woman led the way to the parlor and set them down to glasses of as fine milk as any one wished to drink. She showed them her cats ; her old pieces of china; her bake-oven; and seemed so pleased to have what she evidently thought was ^ ^ qual- ity" to make her a visit that Sunday afternoon, her one tooth in front was visible, by reason of her smile, until they had gone too far to see it. **The wild rose bush, on close inspection," Marjorie remarked as they left, *'had roses al- most as large as teacups, and so sweet, and the thatched roof was so pretty, I wish papa would build a little summer house at home with one." The Princess had secured her picture, taking What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 31 in the confusion of flowers and vegetables with the children — the house in the background — go- ing her way rejoicing. They had gained another victory over his Majesty. He had sat still in the carriage for some little time after they had left him, not altogether approving of this whole- sale invasion of a private residence; but, either getting restless or getting curious to see what they were up to, when they disappeared in the cow-house, he joined them and became as affable as anybody, much to the good woman's pleasure. He gave her some coin for her trouble, and she made a curtsy, at the same time mumbling- thanks. CHAPTER III They went by train to London. ReacMng the station, they drove to the Victoria, in sight of Trafalgar Square. After freshening up a little they took top seats on an omnibns and rode round and round the city to get a general view of it. The next day, after a morning's ramble, they lunched at ^^Ye old Cheshire Cheese Inn,'* frequented in earlier days by Samuel Johnson and his boon companions. The party sat at the same table, and saw where the paint had been rubbed off the wall by the wigs of these wits as they leaned against it for solid comfort. A picture of Samuel Johnson hangs on the wall just over the end of the table where he had had his seat. One can get an idea of what these meetings meant for each in reading Goldsmith's ^^ Haunch of Venison," in which he touches up his inti- mates to a fine point. '^Ye Old Cheshire Cheese Inn" is on Fleet street, a little back, and entered by a narrow alley at the side, other houses directly on Fleet street obscuring it from view. One went out by another narrow alley on the other side. The 33 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 33 kitchen is upstairs, and tlie waiters halloo up their wants as fast as their cockney tongues can roll it out, just as they are said to have done in the days of Johnson, Burke, and the like. The party were told that they had the same lunch — cooked the same way — and that they ate it from the same kind of plates, and drank beer out of the same sort of mugs. It was fine ! The ham, the bread, the peas, the cheese (served in little oblong tin plates), the beer. So said the witty Goldsmith, his Majesty and party. The Countess and Marjorie had never fancied beer and would not hkve taken it an^nvhere else. Eight in the heart of London, almost opposite the A^ictoria, the Princess and the Countess were returning from some shopping, when the Princess heard some one calling her name loud- ly, and behold! there were some friends just across the street whom she had known for years in New York. The Countess was made ac- quainted, and with her family and the Princess was invited to dine that evening. They attired themselves in their traveling best and went over later, enjoying the company and a very elegant repast. On the ship the Princess had many admirers. One tall Saxon youth, claiming to have mines in South America, was always in her wake. He was an amateur bird-fancier, and when the hours began to be dull he brought the birds out to exliibit; so he was dubbed ^'The Bird" by Marjorie, who had a tendency to make sport of anything novel and 34 What Marjorie Saw Abroad humorous. She even went so far as to draw a picture of him stalking around the deck fol- lowed by his favorite fowl, whose limbs were something akin to his own as regards length. He was bright enough to get an inkling of these facetious side-plays, and begged the Princess to let him see the picture she had of him (Marjorie having given the drawing to her) , and she finally consented. He was as much amused at the caricature as Marjorie was with Mm, and drew a lovely pic- ture of her, with the elegant poise of her head somewhat exaggerated by leaving out the grace- ful sway which characterized her neck. ^^A very refined rebuke," the Countess said; but Marjorie retorted that she ^^ could not help his looking like a crane," and the people hear- ing smiled. The fair, accomplished German was then known as ' ' The Bird, ' ^ and when the party reached London a letter came for the Princess containing nothing more than a lovely feathered bird, pressed onto a nice card, with the donor's address. He had offered to present her to the Kaiser if she would come to Berlin in her trav- els and let him know of her arrival; but she feared the Kaiser was not so easily approached. Still, she enjoyed the pretty bird, and no doubt wrote a note of thanks. ^^The Mall, the Mall!" exclaimed Marjorie at breakfast one morning soon after their ar- rival in London. ^^We must see that. I have read in encyclopaedias^ and wherever else I could What Marjorie Saw Abroad 35 find a description of the Mall, and I must see it without fail. ' ' Being agreeable to all, on the Mall they went that day, driving beneath trees which border either side, finding Buckingham Palace at the end, and St. James 's Park on the left, with a nar- row rift of water shining among its flowers and shrubbery. St. «Tames ^s Palace and Marlborough (then being fixed up for the Prince and Prin- cess of Wales, it was said) are on the right, and many handsome dwellings of noted people were pointed out upon the Mall. At Buckingham Palace the party were admit- ted into the stables ; not any finer than some pri- vate ones they had seen in the United States, but much larger. In fact, they were immense, and built around a great court. The groom said there were a hundred and forty horses. In dis- cussing their speed with this groom his Majesty said it did not near come up to the ordinary speed of one of his horses, which so astonished the groom he stammered and said, ^^No doubt His Majesty's (King Edward's) horses make up for it by grace, high-stepping and beauty." They were beautiful, especially the eight creams with long tails and manes of darker hue, pret- tily waved; also the same number of handsome blacks, in opposite stalls. The state coach, among others, was also shown. The palaces are quaint and interesting, but not much on architecture. The grounds and parks about them are elaborate and immense — • 36 What Marjorie Saw Abroad St. James's, Hyde, Eegent and Kensington (where the good Qneen Victoria was born). On one of these park drives — St. James's per- haps — the coachman pointed out a dog cemetery. It was so crowded with flowers and undergrowth one could see only a few white headstones peep- ing through ; but tall, shapely trees were waving their arms above, and altogether these favorite dogs had quite an attractive resting-place. Mar- jorie said, ''The idea is so cute." As old as the establishment is, Tusseaux's wax works keep in touch with the world — the latest being added to enlist attention; though his Majesty thought they were not what they were cracked up to be when he failed to dis- cover a figure of his admiration. Gen. Robert Edward Lee, in that vast crowd of characters, ancient and modern, in appropriate costumes. The Princess answered that she had not noticed Gen. U. S. Grant there, either. One figure turns his head, and Marjorie thought she was either growing dizzy from so much sight-seeing, or the man was a live one and very impudent to leer at her in such man- ner. The breathing lady excited considerable attention — her breast heaving up and down, as if she were in a deep sleep, her eyelids closed, carrying out the deception. They thought the entrance steps very hand- some, stretching around an elegant hall, the Eoyal family just within the second doorway after one ascends ; the King standing in scarlet WJiat Marjorie Saw 'Abroad 37 military attire; the Queen, in coronation robes, at his side, though a little apart ; the ladies all in Worth gowns. The Princess of Wales's gown, white lace with long pink velvet train — the three feathers embroidered all over it — ^was very fetching. Around the train edge, on the under side, a line of pink roses, their faces next to the f3oor, gave a delicate finish to the superb cos- tume. A long tulle veil fell over the back of her head and robes. Near this group was a fig- ure of General Washington, and his Majesty remarked, ^^The Eoyal family is in very good company, I am glad to see ! ' ' With an ecstasy of delight Marjorie and the Countess walked beneath the lion gate at Hamp- ton Court. They were both partial to beautiful gardens and magnificent homes. If they had had to give up seeing either, both would have preferred seeing Hampton Court to seeing the King. On the Thames, a pleasant drive from Lon- don, is Hampton Court — founded by Cardinal Wolsey and presented by him to Henry VIII, who viewed it with envious eyes. Marjorie skipped in youthful glee down the broad stairs. She pictured to herself the train of royalty and the concomitants thereof. And as she wandered through the innumerable rooms, whose yards and yards of tapestry Cardinal Wolsey spent so much time in collecting; saw the multitudes of historical paintings on the walls; the ap- proach to the castle; the gardens with flowers; 38 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad the terraces — all so enchanting to look upon — she said for the first time in her life she ceased to inquire of herself why Anne Boleyn married Henry VIII, though some of his improvements were demolished by a later king, strange to say. The bunches from the old arbor in the grapery hung down so evenly and at such regu- lar intervals the Countess noted at a glance how carefully the gardener pruned and tended. Not that she would, but Marjorie said she was great- ly tempted to reach up after the luscious fruit. ^^It would be an unpardonable crime to filch fruit from so royal a vine,'' his Majesty replied, sarcastically, when she whispered her desire to him. He knew it would be the only way to get it. Later, the Countess was telling some one about it, ^ ^ and the trunk was as large as one of my twenty-year-old maples," she said. *^The vine slopes down on a trellis under a glass shed like the roof of a house, the lower part being four or ^ve feet from the ground. And there are shades and sashes on the roof, controlled by cords, to give it light, or shield it from cold, ' ' she added. On the way to Windsor the party went part of the time by train, then took an open carriage, much of the time running on the Thames. A small house on a sloping bank, in which King John signed the Magna Charta, was pointed out. A weeping willow hung over the water; a hedge, as usual, enclosed the side and back. In sight stood a table on the lawn, a chair What Marjorie Saw ^Abroad 39 beside it, which Marjorie thought must be those she was told were there somewhere on the place and had been used by him for the purpose. Boating is a favorite pastime on the Thames. Little boats were floating here and there, jDulled by man instead of beast, past charming coun- try places showing lawns dipping to the water ^s edge, ornamented with graceful trees and flow- ers, little tea-houses and boat-houses. Then the hedge-rows on the way as they left the river were visible for some time, indicating some- thing unique beyond, and Marjorie stood up most of the drive, as they spun along over the smooth country road, to see the houses over the hedges and the real life of the exclusive Eng- lishman. They were like other homes abroad — the hedges serving to lend an air of mystery, as of the unknown and unseen, to those beyond. Approaching Windsor, they noticed it stood on a height, and soon entered what is called the Long Walk, an avenue of elms, a double row three miles long, at the end of which, facing the great gate of the castle, on a rise of ground, stands an equestrian statue of George III (grandfather of Queen Victoria). Coming out, Marjorie thought she counted ^ve rows of elms, but the Princess said four were enough. They appealed to his Majesty, but he said he had not noticed, as he was trying to catch a glimpse of Frogmore (Queen Victoria's handsome tomb) all the way. The party had a flitting view of 40 What Marjorie Saw Abroad it going in, but it was so hidden by trees it was tantalizing to get a view of it. The castle has a town of the same name at- tached. The castle itself is immense. It ram- bles aronnd, in and about a great space, having courts with flowers and fountains. The Eoyal family live in the front rooms when there. Spread before one is a beautiful garden, and an orange porch beneath a parapet guarded by cannon; red-coats stand on duty near the Royal apartments. Marjorie got interested and thoughtlessly strayed ahead, out of hearing distance, and the guide, who was conversing with his Majesty, said, ^^Ah, ah! she is going too far," in a troubled voice. But his Majesty rattled some coins in his pocket, and the guide quickly added, ' ^ But she is too young to do any harm. Let her alone. ' ' So Marjorie wandered on, it seemed, to her heart's content. She examined the big cannon in front; she looked over the parapet; she saw the garden (laid out in walks and many beds of flowers) was led down to by a bold flight of marble steps embellished at the foot by two white stone elephants, which she afterward heard came from Lucknow, in India. Opposite, another marble ascent led up to the castle front. After satisfying herself somewhat, though she longed to enter the beautiful garden and pick a few flowers, but which instinct forbade her doing, she retiirned to her father^ who w^s$ What Marjorie Saw Abroad 41 still talking to the guide. Seeing lier, he told her when she came np that the guide had said she had gone too far. He did not think she really had ; he thought the guide a sharp fellow and was trying to get a little extra. Turning to the guide, she apologized to him, adding : ^'We Americans go as we please. I did not know, and would have gone farther, but, think- ing I heard some one calling me, I turned, and as I did so my eyes rested on those red-coats, who looked so still and martial I feared they might fire. I would not mind bribing you, ' ' with a smile, ^'but I have conscientious scruples about bribing soldiers. They must do their duty as it is laid out for them" — slipping a coin in his hand, which he accepted with a bow, her father staring at her while she made her well- timed speech. Her father had called out to her when the guide protested, but when he relented the for- mer looked away by the time Marjorie thought she heard him, and she went on. The Countess and the Princess had gone to the North Terrace, and were soon joined by his Majesty and Marjorie. Far away they could see the outlines of the chapel at Eton, and the churchyard which inspired Gray's Elegy. They went up to Caesar 's Tower, at the other end of the castle, for some of the buildings were there during that administration. In the very 42 What Marjorie Saw lAhroad top was a prison, with only narrow slits in tlie wall for light and air — a gloomy place indeed. So-called heretics, the party were told, were tor- tured here with thnmb-screws and other hor- rible instruments. The Princess shuddered. His Majesty said he could but more admire the strength of character history acquaints us with of those who withstood all, after he had seen this place. A cannon up here — long since unused — once guarded the bridge in sight across the Thames. The party had to climb ladders and go through dark, narrow places to reach this height, and the Countess said she was pleased to be down again, after hearing about the terrible tragedies enacted up there in the dark and out of hearing. In aboufc what seems the center of the castle is a large open space, the Round Tower in the midst. The elevation on which the Tower stands is the site of the legendary Round Table of King Arthur and his Knights. Marjorie imagined them pulling their horn spoons from their belts and falling to, after the manner of their day. It is an immense place of itself, and doubtless could hold out a long time against an enemy if he could succeed in passing the outer castle walls. It is pierced with holes for cannon. His Majesty said there was no telling what was in that fortress. One can imagine great prepara- tions for an extended siege, secret passages of What Marjorie Saw Abroad 43 escape, if all other efforts failed, or under- ground communications with the outer world. It looked so grand, so strong, so satisfactory ! St. George's Chapel at Windsor is akin to Westminster Abbey in point of interest. Some of the show places they missed at Windsor be- cause it was not the day. One is ever losing time finding places closed in traveling, and if one misses the day for opening one has to wait for the next. It is not only pleasure, but some work to travel well. When the members of the party missed anything they said they would take that in next time they crossed. Monday is al- ways cleaning day, so tourists had better amuse themselves some other way on that day. CHAPTEE IV ^^Why^ mamma/' cried Marjorie, ^Hhe Tower of London is so large it is almost a village ! ' ' Like other used buildings of long standing, having been added to, as the needs increased, it is not a tower, but many towers. Entering the castellated walls through several strong gates or doors, there is the gun carriage on which Queen Victoria was carried to her burial. Here his Majesty met a friend whom he least expected to see, and of course they must have a chat, then proceeded to climb the tower where the little princes were murdered by several ruffians to make a place for Richard III. Marjorie remem- bered them in history — she remembered them at Tusseaux's Wax Works; whether from hor- ror or lack of air, she rushed back, down the narrow, winding, gloomy stairs (hardly two could go abreast), after attaining a dozen steps, telling her father, who was at her side, that she could not stand it, and went outside, where the guard told her the party would come out; but his Majesty came after a little and told her she was missing too much. The guard had told him where to find her, and had recommended her meeting him on the other side. At very few 44 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 45 places abroad, when one is sight-seeing, do tour- ists come out the way they enter. Taking cour- age, she returned when her father told her she would not have to go all the way up to the Princes' tower. Passing up the stairs again, she noticed a cord across those she had not jjre- viously reached. At this point her father, going ahead, entered a door at the left instead of con- tinuing to climb the stairs, and she thought she saw wonders in the different apartments. One suite was used by Henry III often as a resi- dence. Here are now many warlike weapons and coats of mail which people who valued their lives wore in that age. Without doubt every man carried a concealed dagger, and could hit straight to the mark along the narrow walled- up stairs and passageways in "ye olden tyme.'' Entering a large court, after leaving this tower, they saw a stone slab marking the spot where Lady Jane Grey was beheaded an hour after her husband had met a similar fate on Tower Hill. They went up into the Beauchamp tower, where the guard said she had been con- fined with many others. In her innocence she was persuaded to be queen against her will. The beef-eaters or keepers of the Tower still wear their frocks, boots, trousers and caps as they did — one told the Countess — when Henry VIII lived. He said Edward VI first, and then corrected himself. And the black ravens still croak on the rail of Beauchamp tower as they did when Lady Jane, refined, delicate and tal- 46 What Marjorie Saw Abroad ented, went to her ghastly fate. Many others met a similar fate here, for no greater provoca- tion, perhaps. Marjorie told the Princess, when they were out of hearing, she supposed they were called beef-eaters because they had seen so many bloody murders. His Majesty's comment was: ' ' The armor, the shields, the ponderous war- like implements of different ages, preserved here, show humanity's weakness — ^love of power, without the greatness to use it right. '* ^'Yes,'' said the Countess, *^when I view the beautiful monuments and paintings done by great and good men in memory of the Creator, the Saviour, and the angels, and see magnifi- cent shrines in the great churches to their honor, I wonder why so few seemed to understand the Saviour 's wishes or tried to follow them. Other- wise, there would have been no need of such weapons; such bloodshed; such waste of fair humanity; such grief -stricken relatives left to mourn. ' ' ^^Even now it is said,'' rejoined the Princess, ^^that the jealousy of European nations pre- vents Christians from owning the Holy Sepul- cher, the desire for which prompted the Cru- sades." Out of the Tower walls into the open air their thoughts took a more cheerful tone. At St. Paul's they got in about the time of afternoon service, at four- thirty, which was held What Marjorie Saw Abroad 47 in the main aisle, or nave, as tliey call it, the choir behind this, and embellished with much handsome carving. Indeed, all over Europe the choirs are grandly carved and most conspicuous. The altar at St. PauPs is surmounted by ''The Ascension," in marble; ''The Madonna and Child" lower down, in marble; "The Lord's Supper," in marble relief, below this. As the procession of priests and choristers filed in they were preceded by a beadle, a priestly-looking fellow in a black gown and bearing a long staff. He opened the gate for the imposing train to enter with an obsequiousness which enlightens a stranger as to the standing of the clergy in England, then closed it again, remaining out- side the gate. He opened it again for the offi- ciating minister to niount the lectern outside the chancel railing, escorting him to the foot of the steps, closing the gate, then opening it again when the reading was finished, again closing it when the minister had passed through — this being done twice, the service requiring two read- ings — and once more when the service was over. So one can understand that there was much ceremony at this short service. When the King and Queen are present, which perhaps is seldom or never, the Princess was told that they took seats on the front row of chairs — there are no pews, only rows of chairs in the nave immediately facing the choir and altar. The church is so large they are not really necessary, as enough chairs are there for daily 48 What Marjorie Saw Abroad use, and can be easily taken away for great oc- casions. Marjorie marveled at there being no special seat for the rulers in many of the great churches; but the Countess said she supposed they did not care about it, as they could have whatever they wanted, and perhaps preferred to confine themselves to the church they liked best, just as the rest of humanity did. But Mar- jorie insisted that they ought to have them through courtesy, in case they wanted to go in. In the basement, under the dome of St. Paul's, Lord Nelson is buried. Later, the party saw in the Louvre at Paris the fine painting by Turner where he is represented as receiving his death- wound on the battleship; and in Trafalgar Square, near their hotel in London, they daily saw the great monument to his memory. The black and white sarcophagus in which he rests is said to have been designed for Cardinal Wol- sey, but was sold during the Commonwealth of Cromwell, before it was finished for the Car- dinal's bones. On going to Lambeth Palace, where the Arch- bishop of Canterbury lives, and where the great Church Councils are held, it did not happen to be the day for it to be open to the public, and, time being valuable, each one tried to persuade the doorkeeper to let the party in^ — all to no avail. Finally, the Countess, remembering two bishops whom she knew, and who had been to one of these councils, asked the man if he had What Marjorie Saw Abroad 49 ever met the Bishop of Z , calling his name, or the Bishop of Y , calling him by name. *^Ah! I know them well. He added quickly: ^ ' The Bishop of Z spent two weeks with the Archbishop of Canterbury, and so did the Bishop of Y ." And he was so delighted to know some one who may recently have seen them he let the travelers in, after asking his Majesty for his card, to make sure of his iden- tity, perhaps. They looked at the pictures, the libraries, the council chamber ; and his Majesty thought he saw one of his big ancestors hang- ing on the wall in a bishop's gown. Their names were alike and they hailed from the same place, but, not having personally known this ancient prelate, he took it for what it was worth. After seeing what there was to be seen, the Countess, on leaving, asked the keeper what she must tell the Bishop of Z , whom she might see any time in the United States. ^ ' Only tell him that you saw Harker, ' ^ he re- plied. His aspect toward the party was quite changed when he found they knew bishops, such is the effect of a title on the Englishman. Mar- jorie told her father that was why she wanted to put their crests on things, to make traveling easier, and that she had heard that discussed. Harker was so polite, so learned, so intelli- gent, his Majesty was afraid to fee him on leav- ing; but the Princess, who had been to England before, said she heard Harker dropping his 50 What Marjorie Saw Abroad '^h's,'' wMch no literate ever does, and she langhed at Harker losing Ms crown. His Maj- esty wanted to send it to him by mail, but time is precious in traveling, and when things are not done at the time there seems no other time for them. His Majesty seemed worried over it, so they all suggested that he send it the next time one of the Bishops went over. One night the Countess, wishing to rest, and remaining at the Victoria, Marjorie, his Majesty and the Princess went to the theater in London to see an equestrian display. There were most beautiful feats of horsemanship. In the last act a torrent of real water rushing down a make- believe mountainside into a real river of water actually washed away a part of the bridge across it; a man was holding to a tree above in the wake of the mountain torrent, when a coach full of people came tearing along with outriders over the bridge, which they did not perceive, in their haste, had been wrecked at the other end until too late. Coach, coachman, occupants and attendants were carried over in grand melee by the excited horses, they plunging and rearing — all scrambling in the water for life in such a realistic way it seemed a horrible disaster in- stead of the finale of a play. All were borne out underneath somewhere, keeping up the delusion, the audience at the highest pitch of wonder and admiration till nothing was visible but the wreck, when the curtain fell. His Majesty thought it must be expensive What Marjorie Saw Abroad 51 business getting their clothes so wet night after night, to say nothing of the colds they must catch, as well as the danger from being mixed up with so many excited horses. Marjorie said it excelled anything of the sort she ever saw, except when they made it rain in a play in the City of Mexico, though it was an ingenious Yankee invention, which she did not imagine the English touching in any way. The party thought it would be very conven- ient if there were street cars in London. Omni- buses take their places, but these have regular stations where one has to get on and off, and a lack of familiarity with their routes is very em- barrassing. The party used the hackney car- riages or a hansom, at about a shilling a ride for two. If they went an hour or more they were confined to a stipulated sum. The ladies did not like the tea they had to drink in England, and later advised their friends to take it over with them, if they liked a particular brand, or any other brand than black. They hunted around for the kind they liked, after being informed by the hotel that it had none, but in vain. *^ English breakfast tea prevails all over the kingdom," the Countess said. They congratulated themselves on having taken their soap. The Victoria Hotel adver- tised itself as very generous in giving the occu- pants Pears' soap without extra charge. It ivas very nice to have it at hand. 52 What Marjorie Saw Abroad They enjoyed the beautiful cats they saw everywhere in England, and his Majesty was no little astonished to see women walking the streets with a cowhide in their right hand (rolled up and handy) for use on a poor dog they had along, he supposed, as he saw no other use for it; and it seemed to excite no wonder except among strangers. Westminster Abbey, as far as was practicable under the preparations before, and the demol- ishing of temporary structures afterward, ow- ing to the coronation, was enjoyed thoroughly by a man of his Majesty's culture. Before going through, Marjorie met one of the girls who had been an acquaintance on the ship, crossing, and asked her politely if she were enjoying every- thing. She answered : ^ ^ Yes ; we have just come from Westminster Abbey.'' '^It is such an interesting place I suppose it takes some time to go through, doesn't it?" in- quired Marjorie. ^'Oh, no," replied the girl; '^we walked all through in fifteen minutes." Marjorie told the Princess of it. The Prin- cess said: ' ^ That is just what I would expect from that source." *'She must have galloped through," Marjorie added, laughing. CHAPTER V In discussing the coronation of Edward VII, his Majesty said in his country he was as good as a king, and that he did not care to bother about seeing one crowned. The Princess said the same. The Countess said she had not the slightest objection to seeing the coronation, but did not like to sit so long in a strange place in such a jam. There was a family tradition that the Countess was descended from kings. Mar- jorie, the only plebeian among them, as far as titles are concerned, said she saw no reason on earth for not going ; that the Sovereign of Eng- land was the only one on earth ever really crowned properly; that she was eager to go, and, as Sir Martin had offered to get them places, that she ivas going. And she thought it was her papa 's duty to go and see her through. Sir Martin was a cousin of a cousin of Mar- jorie's in the United States, and lived in Lon- don. When it was decided that his Majesty and Marjorie were to go the latter was enchanted. ^^But you will miss the procession," said her father; ^^that will be as good as the crowning, and we would not have to be housed so long." '*Bah!" said Marjorie. **I saw the golden coach at the Buckingham stables and inspected 53 54 What Marjorie Saw Abroad the beautiful frescoes all around it ; made faces at those four grotesque images standing out from the corners and wondered why they were there, and would recognize the long golden car- riage-tongue anywhere. I saw the cream horses, and the fine harness and trappings hanging up in the glass cases all around the harness-room, and can imagine the rest — only some postilions in livery and the Yeomen of the Guard or beef- eaters I met at the Tower and some troops. The best will get inside.^' ^^You are bent on going,'' her father said. I won't say how long they waited in Westmin- ster for the great event. Some said one had to sit for hours. It was some time, however; but that Saturday evening when Marjorie got back to the hotel her eyes glistened, and she forgot her fatigue telling her mother and the Princess (who condescended to listen — very attentively, however) how it all impressed her. Her father went to his room to rest. Sitting in her own room, with the Countess and Princess for audi- ence, she began : ^ ' First the plain clergy came in, in white, with long sticks like the beadles carry; others in red and purple ; Canon Duckworth with the crown ; the King's household; the Union Standard, and the highest officials of the church and state, wearing ermine capes and long velvet trains. Then the Queen ! ' ' Here she clasped her hands, and continued: ^^She had on what seemed to be a lace princess dress, with long, diaphanous What Marjorie Saw Abroad 55 angel sleeves ; a long golden train ; lengthy lace veil floating back from lier face." Digressing, she said, ^'I would look well in that, too." Both agreeing, she proceeded : ^^The nobles, bareheaded, bore what they call her regalia — the crown and scepters — ahead of her; intermingled were pages bearing these no- bles' coronets on cushions. Pages held up the Queen's heavy train. The Mistress of the Eobes (the Duchess of Buccleuch) ; the Ladies in Wait- ing; Women of the Bedchamber, and Maids of Honor accompanied her. All these ladies were in low neck, and gowned differently, except in regard to the long, sheer, white veils and sweeping velvet trains. Troops stalked at the side. Then came Earl Eoberts with the second sword; Viscount Wolesley with the third sword; others; the Lord Mayor; others; Lord Londonderry with the sword of state; the Duke of Marlborough with St. Ed- ward's crown. At last, Kinoc Edward VII himself,, accompanied by the Bishop of Dur- ham and other bishops carrying the rest of his regalia; he in ermine and long purple velvet train held up by pages; a troop of guards at bis side, with plumed helmets on. The King took a seat in a chair in the choir at the right of a blue velvet dais, reserved for the homage. The Queen seated herself in a chair opposite him, on the left. The Archbishop of Canterbury stood behind the coronation chair (in front of the altar) and proclaimed the King amid cheers 56 What Marjorie Saw Abroad and ''Grod save the King''; the trumpets blew. He and the Queen then moved nearer the altar to other chairs, keeping on their respective sides. Presently the King was escorted to the altar, kneeled, bareheaded, before it, and with his right hand on the Bible promised to do his best; then went to the coronation chair, where a cloth- of -gold canopy was held over him. The Earl of Eosebery (Mr. J 's friend — Mr. J was a friend of her father) was one of the bearers. Under this they anointed him with oil from a golden spoon, as Saul was anointed in olden times. They put some vestments ou him as he stood up, and a girdle, touching his heels with a golden spur. There was great cere- mony with swords — every man carrying a part of the regalia presenting it to the Archbishop. ^ ^ The King standing, they put a cloth-of-gold mantle on him. Sitting down again, a glove was put on his right hand, the scepter of the cross in it, the dove scepter in the left, different lords of high birth helping in the doing of each act. As the Archbishop laid the crown on the King's head each peer put on his coronet, so that there was all at once a great flashing of jewels. A button was touched, and the whole Kingdom and Empire of India knew their King was crowned — in spite of the witch's prophecy. ^* After the exhortation from the Archbishop and a blessing, the King, the Queen and attend- ants went to the widest part of the church (where the nave and transepts meet) and as- What Marjorie Saw Abroad 57 sembled around tlie steps of tlie blue velvet dais, where two great state chairs were; the King first, with his attendants, seating himself on the right; the Queen on the left, with hers. Here the peers did homage with their coronets off. So each in turn, the King first, his subjects later, do homage to a higher power. Each peer knelt on a cushion in front of the King after ascend- ing the dais, in order, according to his rank, one at a time, the Prince of Wales first, each kissing the King on the cheek and touching his crown in token of fealty. But the King grabbed the Prince of Wales and gave him a hearty kiss. Wasn't that sweet of him!" And both smiling encouragement, she said: ^^ Don't you suppose he thought it hard to be a king, and, knowing what his son had to look forward to, had a sym- pathy for him?" ^ ' Perhaps so, ' ' her mother replied ; ^ 'but most people think it worth the trouble. ' ' The Princess, very democratic in her views, said she didn't, and Marjorie resumed: ** During the homage an anthem floated out, the trumpets blared, and ' Long Live the King ! ' was joyfully cried out. ''Then the Archbishop crowned the Queen, who went to the altar with her ladies and the four peeresses. Duchesses of Montrose, Suther- land, Portland, and Marlborough, who carried a golden canopy over her, the pages holding up her train. As the crown touched the Queen's head all the peeresses put their coronets on. 58 What Marjorie Saw Abroad ''The Queen and attendants returning to the dais, she, in passing the King, made a bow of homage surpassing everything I ever saw for grace. ''The King and Queen receiving the sacra- ment at the altar, ' Glory be to God on high' was sung, and the Eoyal party went behind the screen to the tomb of Edward the Confessor — I afterward heard — and changed their robes for darker ones, returning and marching on out, still wearing crowns and holding scepters. Troops lined the way outside, and there was such a crowd I wonder I am alive. And the poor King! — he must be so tired, he had so many unusual functions to go through with. ' ' "How did you find out so much, Marjorie T' said her mother, who would not interrupt her till she had finished, but sat breathless, wonder- ing at her knowledge. "Why, I asked people, and I gathered much from those talking around me. I knew Earls Eoberts and Wolesley and others from their pictures — ^you know, I have been watching these things closely, to enjoy the coronation fully when the time came, and t/oii have enjoyed the telling of it, too, in spite of your democratic feelings," she said to the laughing Princess. "And papa secretly thinks it was fine! I am so glad I went!'' And she jumped onto her bed for a little rest before dinner, saying she would tell them more when she thought of it. CHAPTER VI Leaving their trunks at the Victoria until their return from London, with valises and hand-bags they took the train for Leamington, a tjipicsl English town; in fact, it is called the English Spa — the water has so good a reputa- tion. It is only a few hours ' run from London. Marjorie said it was a place to spend a month in, if one had time. She longed to sit in the hotel garden on sunny days and dream and rest to her heart's content under the shade-trees and among the flowers ; but she did not remain long enough for the sunny days. It was damp and misty the few days they were there, and when Marjorie asked for a fire she smiled when she saw the little bundle of tree twigs the maid brought in to kindle it with. She had heard that, owing to the scarcity of forests, foreigners utilized all the prunings of the trees ; but these looked as if they were cut from bushes, and she felt quite sure the fire would go out, which it did. Ringing to have it again started, she saw the maid come in with two little bundles of the same sort, neatly tied, which were evi- dently kept ready for the purpose. She won- dered if the maid would find it easier to use 59 60 What Marjorie Saw 'Abroad American kindling, and would not be as glad as herself to have a few stout sticks to hurry the smoking fire ; but where ignorance is bliss it is folly to be wise, so she did not tell the maid about American kindling. The travelers came here only as a starting point to Kenilworth, Coventry, "Warwick and Stratford. They stopped at the Eegent Hotel, one of the old-time hostelries, containing antique furni- ture, old-style beds, with testers half over and curtains at the back and side, and a bell-cord in reach. The beds were high with feathers in- stead of springs ; the washstands were so large two basins and pitchers, and the accessories, sat very comfortably on them. Candles were used in the bedrooms. The maids said ^ ' Thank you' ' when you demanded anything of them. There is no such humility in America or the United States, except in some old slave darky's manner toward her **ole Miss." A short drive from. Leamington brought the party to Kenilworth, which is fast dropping away; but the ruins are still of interest, ever associated with the capricious but great Queen Elizabeth and her favorite, and closely con- nected with Sir Walter Scott 's sad but beautiful romance of Amy Robsart. Not knowing it would later be questioned, Marjorie said it was a pleas- ure to realize that she had actually tread the same ground that lovely Amy had, and called her name many, many times to make the echo peculiar to the back part of the premises. Amy's What Marjorie Saw Abroad 61 pictures are seen in show-windows of stores. At Coventry, reached by another drive from Leamington, was seen the effigy of ^'Peeping Tom, ' ' a pipe in his mouth, looking from an upper window, just as he had done when Lady Godiva bravely walked through the city to re- lieve the people, long, long ago, with no clothing except the glory of her hair. The poem of Ten- nyson has made the story too well known to repeat, but not every one knows that ^ ' Peeping Tom" is still there. At the Craven Arms the party took lunch, and returned to Leamington, setting out next day for Warwick by tramway. The Castle of Warwick is one of the fine old English country seats kept up and occupied at times by the duke of that name, descended, they were told, from Warwick, the man called the **King Maker" in history. Our tourists, enter- ing the gate of the grounds, which rise here, found themselves between two high banks of stone, covered mostly with ivy, and the graveled road wound round and round, it seemed, nearly a quarter of a mile. Suddenly, at a turn, the castle burst upon them ; the disused moat, long since dry; the great iron portcullis up, which they walked under, into a large oblong court, turned to the left, and touched the bell. The family was absent. A keeper appeared and led the way upstairs, ushering them into a long hall, the first part of which had family portraits ; the other was literally covered with armor and rel- 62 What Marjorie Saw Abroad ics of all sorts. From liere they passed into Lady Warwick's boudoir, all white and gold, with famous people on the walls, among them a little portrait of Bluif King Hal when a child. The Princess whispered to Marjorie that it was hard to realize that young thing growing into the unscrupulous ogre that he later became, though he was not good-looking then. In Queen Anne's room, following the above, was some of her furniture. The covers on the bed and chairs were elegant, but much worn. After this, a series of rich parlors ; at the front end, a library of immense size — a huge chimney here for log iire, though one saw steam heaters about. Near a large window, with seat across it, was a tremendous iron pot with feet, said to have belonged to the '^King Maker." This Marjorie thought was large enough to feed a whole regiment. From this window one sees the sweet Avon flowing by with a gentle murmur under over- hanging shrubbery. This, with large, graceful trees and the undulating landscape, charm the artistic eye and raise the poetic soul to realms of ecstasy unknown to those of less delicate timbre. The visitors were breathless with de- light. The courts seem simply grass plots. The castle, like most castles, rambles around indis- criminately, meeting at various places, forming the courts; the sides often forming the wall to the place ; the outlines of the moat, where visible, filled with undergrowth. The flower garden What Marjorie Saw Abroad 63 seems to be on the side opposite the Avon, for, leaving the building and going across a lawn, they reached an arch in the wall of the castle proper, which showed a handsome terraced walk, with groups of trees and shrubbery, then the flowers, with fountains and statues (lions and human figures), were spread in luxury be- fore one. In the greenhouse, facing this, stood a great ancient vase in stone, carved and brought from Rome, the great storehouse of antiquity. At the town of Warwick, situated right at the entrance gate, is an old hospice where twelve veterans secured a home in the early days, which, having fallen into disuse, was revived by Leicester, in remorse, Marjorie thought, for his treatment of Amy, and other delinquencies, per- haps. Here the party shook hands with a vet- eran of Balaklava. He was in a comfortable room, with a wife and a cheerful fire, and seemed good for some years yet. Twelve veterans were here. The chapel, long ago dismantled, is converted into a coal- house, and each one has his coal bin and a key to it. Each has his particular row of pease or other vegetables, and the garden is a charming place in which to wander. Eeturning to Leamington, they drove over to Stratford and stopped at the Eed Horse Hotel, where Washington Irving stayed. A room is set apart on the ground floor near the entrance, called his room. It contains his portrait and 64' What Marjorie Saw Abroad other mementos. A kinsman of his Majesty had traveled with him and Sir David Wilkie, and the party felt a deeper interest in it than they might otherwise have done. Shakespeare's home — a half -timber house, in a straight line from the hotel — ^was the first place they visited. It is not directly on the Avon, but a pleasant walk from it. It was a great pleasure for them to see the very room he was born in, to look through the little win- dows from which his childish eyes must have caught some of the glint storing up and accu- mulating in that mighty brain ; to see the stairs he pattered up and down, night and day, and the portrait of him, considered the, truest extant. Marjorie bought souvenirs all the way as she returned to the Red Horse for luncheon. Afterward the party drove out to Anne Hath- away 's cottage, in the suburbs. She was some- what of a belle, it seems, and Shakespeare was not her only admirer. She had pleasant rooms to entertain her friends in. The hedge at the side, the flowers near the house, the vegetables beyond, the thatched roof are charming to the eye. Inside it is very cozy — old blue china abounding on the shelves, great fireplaces with seats inside. Marjorie and the Princess each sat on opposite sides of the chimney as they went in the rooms, chairs being placed conven- ient here to show the old style. They wondered how the Bard of Avon entertained her — if he What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 65 told her of his ambitions, or if he only talked nonsense to her. Up a winding stair two little bedrooms are shown, one containing the bed Anne was born on and holding the bedding then used. It is a carved, four-posted bed, with tes- ter above. Marjorie said it was just like one her great-grandma owned. Passing the flower-bowered home of Marie Corelli, they drove to the school of King Ed- ward VI, where Shakespeare sat and learned, and where he saw the first play. It is still used as a school, the old, worn, whittled desks also there; but Shakespeare's desk has been taken away — only the spot indicated. The Church of the Holy Trinity is beautifully situated on a rise of the Avon's bank. It is ap- proached by a walk under an avenue of lime trees, in an old-fashioned graveyard surround- ing the church. Inside, on the left, within the chancel, lies all that is mortal of this remark- able man. There were other tombs within, but none inspiring such interest. Taking a small steamboat, run by a m.an and his little boy by means of a small boiler in the center, the party glided softly along the Avon, alive with other boats ; bordered by trees ; over- looked by charming homes with sloping: banks ; the Park; the beautiful Shakespeare Memorial Building; and animals loitering on the e^reen. The artistic sweep of the bank at The Holy Trinity one sees looking up at the trees, the branches of which hang over the wall and 66 What Marjorie Saw 'Abroad shade the river walk just beMnd; the old mill on the opposite side; all, all are entrancing; and the Conntess still says : ^ ' Never can I forget the Avon, the peace, the life, the charm, and, above all, the many asso- ciations with Shakespeare. ' ' The Shakespeare Memorial Building contains much of interest pertaining to him and is worth a thorough inspection. A bisque bust of Shakespeare which Marjorie bought at a shop near his birthplace was wrapped in soft paper and put in her hand-bag as her especial charge. If the bag happened to fall, other than lightly, under any one else's supervision, in the hurry of travel, she would grumble about somebody trying to kill her Shakespeare. It had to be purchased rather small to get into the bag, but the valises were handled by too many to be strictly safe ; besides, all except his Majesty's were stuffed pretty tight ; the Countess was putting some of her ac- cumulations in, and it was not so very empty, after all. His Majesty predicted he would have to get another before long, and thereby add to his burdens. Marjorie and she replied that there was no use going abroad if one could not bring back some mementos, and, having two against him, he subsided. After one leaves England every pound of bag- gage is charged for, except what is taken in valises and hand-bags along with one in the car ; so one is weighed down with small baggage What Marjorie Saw Abroad 67 (which accumulates from day to day) in every train to the end of the journey. As to Oxford, which they had now reached, Marjorie of course knew something, but was not prepared for the numerous handsome colleges scattered over the city. The guide told her there were about twenty-four of them. Each one she saw seemed large enough for a university itself. The main one, or the newest, perhaps, is the Magdalen, confronting the clear, shallow, peb- bly Cherwell River, a stream which looks about thirty feet wide at this point, and is crossed by a rustic bridge. It seemed like a palace, with its buildings running around courts, its statues, its flowers, and its sweet, silent places for thought- ful students and others to stroll in. A long walk attained by the bridge mentioned is pre-emi- nently a fitting place for a student. Opposite the building it stretches along the lovely Cher- well beneath a row of trees, so mingling their branches above as to form a delicious shade, with seats here and there, then sweeps away off to a dim distance, amid curves of green beauty, through a bright meadow of light and life. They also went through one of the older buildings, containing, among other items of interest, a statue of the poet Shelley — he whom they ex- pelled for the audacity of his belief, but whom they now honor in this way. Marjorie had always had a regret for ^^poor Shelley,^' as she called him, in her romantic 6S What Marjorie Saw Abroad view of life, and was pleased to know that his genius had been recognized in so marked a man- ner. ^^He was forgiven as The King on High may forgive, ' ^ she said nnder her breath. Keturning to London, they remained a few days to rest from so mnch junketing around. The Countess said she had a little housekeeping to do; that is, the arranging of the trunks, a little mending of gloves, and other articles which needed tidying up a bit, before going on the Continent. Yet these did not occupy the whole time — there were too many interesting places to visit to allow them to. All the party went once to the National Gal- lery in London, but his Majesty went every op- portunity he had, so great was his love of art. Piccadilly Circus was a curious place to Mar- jorie, and she always craned her neck when they came to it to see if she could tell exactly how it was shaped, the houses went round in such a peculiar way. At Leamington his Majesty got acquainted with two young men he found in the parlors at the Regent, where the party assembled in the evening. From their conversation the young men seemed to have traveled considerably, and he, asking them for information as to his route, received very civil answers. We shall call them Ealph Duke and Peter Smith. They were from near Beaumont, Texas. Ealph was quite fine-looking and youthful in appearance, while Peter seemed a little older, What Marjorie Saw 'Abroad 69 perhaps because his complexion was not so fresh as that of the other, and he had such a peculiar, interesting face. Marjorie said it called to mind some squashes she had seen — a little nubbin here for a nose and a little projection there for a chin. Ealph's good looks made a striking con- trast, and, if he had ever thought of it, he had chosen wisely in this particular. But Peter was neat in his apparel, even stylish. He was witty and had a flattering manner, which gave him the entree wherever he chose to appear. The Princess remarked aside to Marjorie that Peter was '^ great fun,'' and that she would not mind having him all the way. Ealph's father, and Peter's, too, in a measure, had speculated successfully in oil at the time of the great excite- ment at Beaumont, and the former had sent Ralph, for whom he was very ambitious, abroad to see the world, but especially to hunt up, some- where in Ireland, a title concerning which he had the proper papers, and which would make him and his heirs the Earl of Rosscommon, if he took the time to establish his claim. The father was a pompous old man, while Ralph thought the United States good enough for him without a title; and being, for this rea- son, in no hurry to investigate, he and Peter went all over the country, even to Russia, Tur- key and Egypt, intending to take in Ireland on the return; but he caught a glimpse of Marjorie in the garden at dusk one cloudy evening at 70 What Marjorie Saw Abroad Leamington, and when Peter appealed to his honor and everything under the sun — ^they had been there long enough to do the place — there was no getting Ealph away, so he thought he might as well make the best of it. Finding the Princess and her party very entertaining, it was no trouble to do so ; for, after conversing with the young men a while and adroitly drawing them out, his Majesty had a very good opinion of them and introduced them to the ladies. Peter was of good family and Ealph, as we see, well born, and had always been well-to-do. He had gone to college, like other young men of means, so he was already accomplished when he started abroad. His father was born in the United States, but his grandfather was the younger son of an Irish peer, and had impressed his son with the dignity of his lineage. When the title came to him the property was so in- volved it did not enable him to assume it, and he was not in a position to do so on the proper scale until his recent success mentioned. In conversing with his Majesty, Ealph men- tioned the names of some mutual friends, and the meeting with the young men turned out to be a pleasant coincidence. In telling of their return trip across the English Channel, Peter said the boat rolled so over the high waves the passengers were lurched about every way, and that a red cravat he had on getting wet, the dye ran all over his shirt front, making him look for a time as if he had been in a sanguinary bat- What Marjorie Saiv "Abroad 71 tie. Hearing this, the party did not look for- ward to a pleasant trip on the Channel. When his Majesty's party left Leamington the two new acquaintances bid them farewell with proper ceremony, and two exquisite bunches of flowers were sent — one to Marjorie, the other to the Princess — and a tempting bas- ket of fruit to the Countess and his Majesty, from which fluttered their cards as our tourists proceeded to show their appreciation of these gifts. The Princess said she did like to meet South- erners — that they never did things by halves. Marjorie, for the first time in her life on an interesting occasion, was silent. Perhaps she did a deal of thinking. CHAPTER VII At Newhaven they crossed tlie Engiish Chan- nel for Dieppe, Prance. The latter is a fashion- able watering place. As the boat moved slowly in the travelers felt entirely cnt loose from home at the thought of hearing only French at every turn. The monopoly of a foreign tongue gives a helpless feeling at first, and the person who speaks several languages with ease is the one to be envied while traveling. But Cook's man, with ^X'ook" on his cap, is usually at the sta- tion, and will give information. His Majesty and family wanted to stop at a pension in Paris to see what it was like. The Princess knew of one in the heart of the city, where there was little or no noise at night, and here they stopped, not more than a few blocks from the Champs Elysees. Marjorie said it was very nice and homelike. Everybody sat at a long table at once, at lunch and dinner, and got acquainted. It reminded one of a big boarding- house. Breakfast was taken as one wished it. His Majesty lost time, though; all the hus- bandless ladies called on the men to do what they did not know how to do for themselves, 7^ What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 73 Cook's office has a bureau of information, gratis, and it is not so difficult to manage when this is found. The Countess thought the pension good for a change. One got more with other people who were traveling, and could exchange ideas, as most of the boarders were English-speaking people, some going the way around and others returning. The Princess liked one social way they had at the pension — after dinner those who wished it could retire to the parlor and pour out a cup of tea from a nice tea set, which was quite refreshing after the day's excursions. After chatting a little, the many scattered, while some remained till bedtime. The Countess's room was a very good one, but she discovered, after she had slept in it one night and gotten more familiar with its details, that there was another door than she had count- ed on. On first entering the room, just after her arrival, she noticed a brass knob, but, in the hurry for lunch, thought it some bell arrange- ment. On investigating, later, she found what at a glance she thought to be only the joining of the wall paper, near it, to be the outlines of a door. There was no key, nor any place for one. Opening it, she found there a passage with a window looking 'way down into a narrow, dark court, and farther on, at the end of the passage, a door. Finding this door locked, she felt reas- sured, though she wished she had found a key in it; and the wall-papered door not locking, Marjorie went in every night and piled some 74 What Marjorie Saw Abroad furniture against it, before her mother retired, as a precaution against invasion. The deep, dark court, more like a well, suggested the sin- ister days of mediaeval times. On the Continent many hotels are modernized castles or palaces, and it is thought by some that the nobles made these secret places as means of escape during the wars with each other and different nations. At hotels there is always a place or a small room set apart near the en- trance, called a concierge, where a man or a woman stays and keeps the keys. The man in- variably has a pair of keys crossed on the lapel of his coat where a boutonniere might be worn by another man. Paris has plenty of street cars, called trams. They are clumsy-looking affairs of two stories, and the party, not being familiar with the routes, preferred the hacks, at a franc and fifty centimes for two, and twenty-five centimes for the coachman, making altogether thirty-five cents of United States money. They are similar to the hackney carriages in London. They can be hired by the hour also. Soon after their ar- rival the party hastened to the Place de la Con- corde. It is a great, paved, open space, with fountains, statues and lights. In its center is the Egyptian obelisk, and around the statues of the eight principal cities of France. That one representing Strasburg, and taken by Germany, is draped in mourning wreaths from day to day. Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were executed What Marjorie Satv Abroad 75 where the obelisk now stands. Facing the Place de la Concorde, a little distance off, is the Made- leine, a grand cathedral. On one side of the Place de la Concorde is the Champs Elysees, a wide street bordered with sidewalks, between a double row of elms and limes, flower gardens, pavilions and seats, nearly clear on ont to near a highly ornamented stone arch called the ''Arch de I'etoile du nord," because the streets radiate from here, where one enters the Eue de Bou- logne, or "Bolun" (as the Frenclnnen call it) on to the Bois de Boulogne, a wooded place of many acres, containing lakes, islands (joined by pretty bridges to the mainland), tea-houses, and woods so dense one really imagines at times that it must be in the forest, where there is a farm- house — ^belonging to the park — a show place, where one can alight and get a glass of milk. On the other side of the Place de la Concorde are the Tuileries gardens, a long, large, partly enclosed stretch of trees, flowers, fountains, marble figures of many kinds, shady nooks ; then suddenly a luxuriant vista of flowers appears — and beyond, the Arc de Triomphe. The English coachman sarcastically said Na- poleon I had prepared it to take the English under, and seemed naturally elated that it never happened. In traveling on the Continent it saves time and worry employing English-speaking people, if they can be had, though the Englishman re- ferred to beat his Majesty out of a dollar in re- 76 What Marjorie Saw Abroad turning change, because he perceived he was not exactly familiar with the country's coin. After this his Majesty invariably studied the coin when he changed countries. Beyond the Arch of Napoleon, just mentioned, is the Louvre, now used as a storehouse for works of art, and one wonders at the number of rooms tilled to repletion. The real Venus de Milo is among the beauties there; the Apollo Belvedere, copy of that at the Vatican; Cupid and Psyche, after Canova (celebrated Italian artist, born 1757 A.D.) ; the Eenaissance collec- tion, and so on a^ infinitum. The Venus de Milo was found (1820) by a peasant at Milo, an island in the archipelago, and is attributed to a pupil of the Greek sculp- tor, Scopas (380 B. C), and contemporary with Philip of Macedon. The arms are missing, but no one dreams of attempting to supply them. The Apollo Belvedere is in better condition, and is a symbol of manly excellence in every par- ticular, as it should be with one who was one of the leading heathen gods, set on a pinnacle to worship. Cupid has pointed wings, and is bending over Psyche, who herself is reclining somewhat. The latter, in mythological lore, was a mortal and the daughter of a king. She was so beautiful she thus incurred the dislike of Venus, the ac- knowledged Queen of Beauty, who sent her son Cupid to make Psyche enamoured of an unworthy person; but Cupid fell in love with What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 11 her Mmself and introduced lier to tlie Graces. Tliey lived in a fairy palace, and she was under a vow not to look at him with mortal eyes; but, abetted by her jealous sisters, of whom she had two, she lighted a lamp for the very purpose ; a drop falling on his face awoke him, and he left in anger. He was imprisoned by his mother, who searched for Psyche to punish her. She inquired of Juno and other powerful goddesses, but in vain ; then she appealed to Jupiter, who sent Mercury after her. Venus put Psyche through many hard- ships, which she accomplished. The last one was to get a box from Hades ; but alas ! her curi- osity caused her to raise the lid, and the fumes suffocated her. Cupid, having gotten out of prison, happened along, and restored her. He asked Jove to allow them to marry, which he did; and Psyche, quaffing a potion presented to her, after the manner of the gods, became im- mortal. This is all very mythical, but the beauty of conception in the ancient hy|3erbole of thought, and the attractive design, are worthy of distinction. The talking basins, two red stone affairs nearly as large as a moderate-sized room, and elevated on a pedestal, carry the human voice from one to the other across a long hall. The guide said that they were called preaching ba- sins, and that they came from Greece. The min- ister talking near either one, the congregation could hear more distinctly than otherwise. The 78 What Marjorie Saw Abroad party had some very amnsing conversations over the basins. Marjorie said they were better than telephones. Being a rainy day, they took luncheon at F. Jammet's, 8 Eue de Valois, Palais Eoyal, not far from the Louvre, and returned to finish the day. On the Champs Elysees there is an ever-vary- ing scene. Automobiles of yellow, white, red and blue, and of every description and shape, go flying by; omnibuses with people inside and on their roofs, little winding stairs going up to them ; carriages, all styles ; and people innumer- able, afoot or sitting on chairs under trees, mak- ing merry — some even with their sewing. And children of all ages are playing about, tended by nurses in fancy caps with long streamers. Some of these caps were all white; some had a coronet of ribbon in Roman colors ; some all black and tied in a wide bow large enough for a dress sash, nearly covering the whole head and stick- ing out at the sides. One has to be alert in cross- ing the Champs Elysees to keep from being run over; the party getting run over gets sued, which adds to the difficulty. Friends seem to use the shady parts as a reception place in the afternoon. One sees a small crowd increase to a large party, seated (at four sous a seat), and jabbering French in a wonderful fashion. From the great Alexander bridge which crosses the Seine, and which is grandly adorned with golden-winged horses and statues, they What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 79 walked down a great marble stairway, of whicb. there are two, bearing down from the bridge to the water \s edge on each side of the river — guarded by white stone lions. Here they took a small steamboat to Sevres, where the costly china of that name is made. One little cup and saucer was priced at twenty-five dollars. The buildings and premises are not unlike those of a small palace in appearance and quality. The Seine is very attractive. The edges curbed, fine buildings on the bank, pretty slopes in front, and boats going under the many, many bridges, decorated with statues of Tritons, water nymphs, and every conceivable figure. The Madeleine is one round of elegance. Ser- vice was going on when the party happened in, and, as well as one could see for the crowd, Marjorie said the whole edifice seemed of carved marble, and that the outside resembled the Pan- theon, which she had seen driving around the city. The beadle was as tall as a giant and finely dressed in red-and-gold coat, with black knee breeches, black stockings, and low shoes with large buckles, and a black hat with a red feather, and gold trimmings. He carried a long, handsome wand, and was imposing, but his Maj- esty thought he would be more appropriate in a place of amusement ; yet the elegance of him was in keeping with the other accompaniments. The Cathedral of Notre Dame is full of great gray-stone columns forming arches above, but these columns are not in line. Around the side 80 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad are alcoves with altars adorned with marble fig- ures of saints, each barred off by a railing and gate. A marble monk in one of these alcoves, or rooms, or chapels, whatever they are called, has such well-designed lace on his gown that even when Marjorie touched it she found it dif- ficult to believe that it was not real. The main altar has beautiful, life-size white statues representing the Virgin Mary and Christ after His crucifixion, and a French king on either side, which Marjorie took for Louis Xin and XIV, but told otherwise. The choir — as it is in all the cathedrals — fine- ly carved in dark wood, occupies each side of the space directly in front of the altar. The Grand Opera House in Paris is thought to be the largest in the world. The party saw here the beautiful opera of ' ' Lohengrin, ^ ' which, of course, was elegantly rendered. The Princess said this was what she called traveling for pleasure. Outside the stage and auditorium there is a collection of halls, upstairs and down, and a gal- lery in front, looking over the city, thronged with the audience between the acts. His Majesty and Marjorie went exploring, and lost their way around the building among the labyrinth of pil- lars and network of stairs ; but a gendarme put them right. Of course, each lady of the party had to have one dress, at least, made at Worth's or Red- fern's; so they sent his Majesty off by himself, What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 81 as lie naturally cared nothmg for these places, and took these establishments in. It seemed to be the dull season at Worth's, and they had more time to exhibit their finery, which gave the ladies ample opportunity to select something an- swering to their purses and their inclinations. Worth would undertake nothing under a hun- dred dollars. What a number of handsome rooms, and what a retinue of well-dressed men and women, in the house's employ, were stand- ing about! The skirts were paraded by a tall girl, who was not particularly in a hurry to take them off, they were so swell and becoming. The waists were brought in on models. Marjorie selected the "sweetest gown in the world," she said — blue and pink. At Kedfern's it was later in the day when they entered, which, perhaps, accounted for more people being there than at Worth's. The Coun- tess and the Princess ordered gowns here. All were to be ready for them near the end of their stay, as the trunks were to be packed and shipped to Florence. Going through the moun- tains and lakes of Switzerland and Italy they would not need more than their hand-bags and valises could supply. They went to many stores, but the Magazins de Louvre was the ladies ' fa- vorite shopping place. Here there were very courteous English-speaking clerks to attend to one's wants. At the Place des Invalides the party saw the great red sarcophagus of Napoleon I, in a ro- S2 What Marjorie Saw Abroad tunda under the gilded dome, with many grand marble figures around it. In the rear of the chapel, and adjoining the tomb, the inscription in French to bury him on the Seine, among the people he loved, is touching. And no doubt they did and do love him, for a French lady told the Countess it was his great love for humanity which inspired him to endeavor to unite the whole world under one government. The Countess had thought it a love of power, of adulation, and could not imagine any sensible person thinking otherwise. The lady being a very accomplished one, the Countess was aghast with astonishment. Ah, she thought, would he have divorced the wife he loved so well, would he have been so anxious for an heir, had ego not been his watch- word? But the decided views of the French lady silenced her. Yet not till she went to France, went to Versailles, to Fontainebleau, to the Grrand Trianon and other places did she realize the unparalleled brilliancy of the man in acquiring so much for himself. The beauty, the luxury of these places, the wealth — it cannot be told. At Versailles, the trees ; the fountain (by the entrance gate), a great basin reveling in beauti- ful and grotesque figures showering water ; then a long walk up hill, gently sloping, with a line of artistic smaller fountains either side, between a mass of trees ; the garden proper, containing lake after lake, led down to by broad stone What Marjorie Saw Abroad 83 steps; other fountains; other trees leading — in beauty of statuary, terraces and flowers — one cannot see where. In the Royal Court is an equestrian statue (looking toward the gate) of Louis XIV, who built the palace mostly. Within the palace is most gorgeous. La Galerie de Glace, a marvel of beauty, in mirrors and win- dows, the bedroom of Louis XIV, testify to its greatness and the wit of Napoleon in obtaining all for himself. By ^^ Galerie'' is meant a long, wide room or salon. The room is shown from which Marie Antoinette escaped by a door in the wall which led down to a private stairway. The door no longer has a picture in front of it, as it is usually represented. The fountains at Versailles play only on the first and third Sundays of each month, from May to September, so it is best to wait for these days, if one can do so, to see the place in all its glory. At the town of St. Cloud, on the way, some halted and walked around to where the palace of the same name once stood — now only a mem- ory — ^which the park and gardens keep fresh for the tourist. It was very steep, up-hill business getting on the heights in town, but the exceed- ingly beautiful view was the reward. One can go by boat to St. Cloud on the Seine and return by tramway to Paris, getting off at the Louvre, but the party found it convenient 84: What Marjorie Saw Ahroa to drive, as they wanted to take in as much as possible during the day. After St. Cloud, the Grand Trianon, erected by Louis XIV for Madame de Maintenon, was explored — a luxurious palace and grounds, not far from Versailles (which came last in the day's routine). Outside the palace gate of the Grand Trianon state coaches, royal sedan chairs and the golden coach of Charles X were exhibited. The Petit Trianon, not far off, is where Marie Antoinette played the dairy maid when the trammels of royalty became too irksome for her gay nature to bear. Having arrived at Versailles and taken lun- cheon in the town, the party were standing about waiting for all to assemble for going to the palace, when Marjorie was accosted by an old woman, who showed her some views of the principal places in France by making her look through the centers of some pretty blue violets and red roses fastened on the end of a cravat pin. She thought she had stumbled upon some very pretty souvenirs and picked out a dozen or more, each with a different view — they took so little room and were so cute and delicate- looking; besides, the pleasant surprises her friends would have, when she presented them, on discovering there was a picture within the petals. Eeturning from the day's trip to Paris, the fortifications, which were very much in evidence, What Marjorie Saw Abroad 85 were the subject of discnssion by the party. They actually seemed forbidding in a time of peace and jollity. Fontainebleau is quite a little journey from Paris — about forty miles. A tramway or drive leads to the palace from the station. Our party chose the drive. Handsome outside steps make the appearance of the palace very elegant as one approaches. These are of stone, and have a nice railing. They curve as they ascend, and are joined by a porch in front of the palace. The ascent is so gradual it is no effort to go up and down. The Countess thought them the loveliest she had ever seen. However, the party entered through a door under these steps, getting to the second story by a broad flight of inner stairs, and came out by the outside. Palace steps are usually inside the building, which adds to the latter in a great measure within, but a pair of handsome outside steps are so embellishing to a facade. As far as the furnishings are concerned, Fontainebleau seems to suit the tourists more than the other palaces. Eoom after room rival one another in grandeur; ceilings frescoed in every conceiv- able manner ; framed in Cupids and elegant fig- ures, stretching out and hanging in relief. The salon of Henry II has no furnishings, but it needs none. The whole room is literally cov- ered with gold and works of art in fresco and mural decorations. It has a study in itself for days. 86 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad The Countess wondered where the money came from to produce these wonders. The French lady before mentioned informed her that art was not so costly then as now. Perhaps there are fewer who can do it well at present, and there may be less demand for it. Francis I started the im_provement and others added to its elegance. The Galerie de Francis I is grand- ly adorned in allegories by Eosso Rossi. Andrea del Sarto, Leonardo de Vinci and Benvenuto Cellini executed many of the decorations for Frances I, who spent great sums on it. The Salle de Conseil was decorated by Boucher. Napoleon I made Fontainebleau a sump- tuous place to dwell in. The floor of his recep- tion-room is elaborately inlaid and contains no rugs to conceal it. Where there is no tapestry in the palace the walls are gilded. There are mosaic tables in exquisite patterns, mirrors, dressing-rooms, with bath for the Queen or Em- press Josephine, and great state beds, with rich hanging;s in silk brocade and gold. The bed of Napoleon I stands sideways against an immense mirror in the wall. Whichever way he turned he could see all around him. The room is red and gold — monarchs' favorite colors. The throne-room is red and gold. The chair, on a dais under a handsome red and gold can- opy, has a large gold ^^N'' in the center of the back. Crystal chandeliers hang from the ceiling. The rooms he put at the disposal of Pope Pius What Marjorie Saiu Abroad 87 VII when he made him prisoner for discounter nancing his divorce from Josephine are large and exquisite in the extreme. The tapestry on the walls and the carpets match the furniture and are in beautiful taste. If they were so when the Pope used them, he could not have had so bad a time^^ — and it seems they were. After lunching they drove through the beau- tiful woods of Fontainebleau, which the coach- man was so proud of they could hardly induce him to return and drive back to the station in time to catch the train. The woods are fifty miles around, and are the handsomest in la belle France. Marjorie said she must see Pere Lachaise — • that it was such a quaint, peculiar name it must be interesting. It was a long drive from the heart of Paris to this abode of the dead, but the tomb of Abelard takes the fancy of youth, and is here. After a long walk and a search they found it — two figures stretched at length under a Gothic pavilion made of fragments from the convent of which he was abbot. There was no grass or leaf in reach that Mar- jorie could pluck as a memento. A high, black iron fence shielded the plants from invasion, so she reached under and took a pebble. At all the places she had been she had man- aged to get a flower or leaf — even a blade of grass was better than nothing. Her father, to tease her, called it ^ ^ filching, ' ' much to her dis- gust. She thought it enterprising to have a 88 What Marjorie Saw "Abroad collection of European flowers and leaves in Iter herbarium, and said so few people took the trouble her little assortment did not make any ravages whatever. When the keepers saw she wanted them they gave them to her, attracted by her beauty and naivete; and she sometimes found them on the ground, or got wild ones. In Pere Lachaise there are walks as in other cemeteries, and in places there is dense shade. The tombs are close together, and walking up the roadway from the entrance there is a sudden rise, in which marble steps lead up to a chapel, where only those go in who wish to pray for the souls of their dead; but the party was allowed to stand in the door and look about quietly from that point. All in all, Pere Lachaise is a solemn- looking place, but fascinating from its weird- ness, and grandly immense. In the northeast corner is the Mussulman burial-ground — the ''Four Crematoire," with two huge chimneys erected for burning the bodies, and compart- ments for receiving the ashes. The Pantheon, a sort of Temple of Fame, is beautiful inside with mural decorations, and is the abode of rest for many who attained celeb- rity. It was once a church, and is now sometimes called St. Genevieve. Large paintings of her on the wall are very handsome, among others. The outside is a little similar to the one at Eome, but, of course, not so large or so celebrated. Inside, an artist was sitting at the right, sketch- ing a mural scene of sheep in a pasture. His What Marjorie Saiu Abroad 89 Majesty, hoping to get some light on the subject of the decorations, accosted him. Chatting with him, he found the Frenchman very agreeable and unusually well informed and intelligent, and finally made an arrangement to meet him at his house, after exchanging cards with him. Marjorie said she would like to go, too. Next morning the two got in a cab and soon found themselves in the neighborhood of the direc- tions. They alighted and entered a gate which led to an archway, under which seemed a long, stone, two-story house, with a nice hedge in front of it, and another along a fence (adjacent to the sidewalk) , a pebbled walk between. Going a little way under the arch, they saw a bell, with directions to ring. Touching it, what seemed to be an old gardener came along, and his Majesty showing him the Frenchman's card, they were taken a little farther back through a pretty gar- den filled with beds of flowers and pebbly walks till they came to what seemed a little two-story house with a large, tall, one-story room at the right. Leaving them here, the man went on his way. Marjorie touched the bell, and pretty soon a little lady opened the door and invited them into what an American would call a reception-hall. A stair from here led to the rooms overhead. There was another room on the first floor, back of the stairs, in which Marjorie imagined that light housekeeping was carried on ; for, as soon as the lady had informed the artist (her 90 What Marjorie Saw Abroad husband), after introducing herself, that there were some people to see him, she went into the little room mentioned and brought out a pot of tea, and placed it on a little table which she had already set out for her breakfast, and invited his Majesty and Marjorie to partake. It was then nine o'clock, the engagement having been set for that time, and, to keep it, his Majesty and Marjorie had had an early breakfast. They thanked her kindly and declined ; but it was very fragrant, and Marjorie was half-way sorry she had not accepted, for it was a little chilly. The lady proceeded to drink her tea, after putting in a lump of sugar, and munched a piece of bread from a Japanese bread tray, talking art all the time in a graceful, refined way till her husband came down. Perceiving that he had not yet breakfasted, his Majesty begged him not to wait, so his wife poured him a cup of tea; but they were all so interested in art the tea was nearly cold before he fairly got it down. When the empty teacup was set aside they all went into the large glass room, which proved to be the studio, and began to talk art in earnest. The sun flooded the room, which looked out upon the flower garden before described, the back giving a sweet view of the neighbors ' tiny yards ; and altogether these two lived up in the clouds, and loved art for its own sake. The wife said they sometimes took dinner in the garden, which Marjorie thought must b^ What Marjorie Saw Abroad 91 lovely. The two had traveled everywhere in the United States, even in Mexico, and knew Europe as well, if not better. Marjorie thought they were the most entertaining and refined peo- ple she ever saw. Both spoke English with so little accent it would not have been noticed if they had not announced the land of their birth. They had lived some time in New York. He said that Paris was now the seat of art; that Paris was the place for an artist to begin (they were rather young people) ; that if one wanted only the wing of a chicken one could buy it; that if one wanted a silk hat to wear to a wedding or to a funeral one could rent that; even a pair of gloves, a coat, anything, from the smallest detail up, and that there were one hundred and fifty thousand artists in Paris, many needing just such accommodations. Marjorie said, innocently : *'I wonder they all don't get together some- times and have a feast." The artist replied that no doubt they would enjoy very much having one, but many of them were usually too poor to indulge. Now, his Majesty was hospitable, and any- thing concerning art appealed to his affections. He invited the artist and his wife to take lun- cheon with the family at the pension next day. The former replied that his wife had an engage- ment to lunch with a countess, but that he would meet his Majesty at the pension next morning and go with him to the Louvre, and in the after- 92 What Marjorie Saw 'Abroad noon slie wonld join them at some interesting place lie had thought of. Marjorie said she was not going to let her papa go to the Louvre with a strange man none of them knew anything about — that was her real reason for going to the artist's home with him ; but she felt it was perfectly safe, now she had been introduced, and only got that up as an excuse to go to the Louvre. When the artist arrived next day, about ten o'clock, Marjorie and his Majesty were await- ing him. He said something had turned up to keep him from lunching with them, but he still could accompany them at once to the Louvre, and meet them with his wife at an appointed time and place in the afternoon. The Countess and the Princess were going elsewhere, and when his Majesty saw them in the cab, another was called, and the three went off to the Louvre. His Majesty had already told the Countess not to expect him to luncheon, that they would take it where they happened to be. In an hour or two the artist left them, and when they met him again, where he and his wife had appointed, they found that the wife was an ar- tist also. At times the four walked together and talked, then the wife and Marjorie would discuss things together. In a little while they got to knowing each other quite well, and Mar- jorie asked her if she had had a pleasant visit to the countess. *^0h, she is an invalid," the wife said, *^and What Marjorie Saw Abroad 9 o has never been in this place ; so she gets me to keep her informed on art matters, she loves art so.'^ That evening they parted, but Marjorie thought it was a delightful little peep into artist life, and wished them much prosperity in the future. Her only regret concerning them was that they did not believe in the Saviour. Mar- jorie was always interested in people's beliefs, and an opening for investigation on this subject was given in this way : The lady mentioned that in church architec- ture the figures became more and more ethereal as they went up — the saints first, the angels still higher, then the Saviour or the Virgin (in the Eoman Church). Marjorie then asked her what her belief was. ^ ' I am not hampered by beliefs, ' ^ she replied. It is perhaps useless to say that Marjorie was shocked ; but the lady artist seemed a good little woman, and Marjorie hoped she might repent. The artist gave his Majesty many pointers on Paris and art at large, and the latter felt re- freshed and entertained in having met him. In driving about Paris his Majesty was de- lighted to see an equestrian statue of General Washington. He wanted to go in the sewers, but every one protested. AVhen he wanted to know why, the Princess said: * ^ You might get malaria down there, and we could not fiinish our trip.'' 94 What Marjorie Saw Abroad **It is very clean there/' lie replied. ^^But," said Marjorie, ^^you might get drowned- ' ' ^ ^ They are too careful for that, ' ' he replied. '^Well, if you go, I go,'' said the Countess, ^ ^ and I do not care to go. ' ' ^^That settles it," said his Majesty; so the poor man was routed again. They drove through the Latin Quarter, which Du Maurier has described so thoroughly, and he was somewhat appeased, but he grumbled out that the next time he went abroad it would be alone. They laughed at this thrust — they were all in one large carriage together this time^ — and told him he would have to learn French, German and Italian before he could do it as pleasantly as he was then, for even then he had not long since been heard to say that he was ^ Hired wrestling with foreigners," and he would nor go to Eussia and Austria because no one in the party could speak the languages. He had used the common idiom 'Wrestling" to make it more forceful. His Majesty was brave enough — he could not get things too exciting for him. When he proposed to go up the Eiffel Tower all ex- claimed in the negative, and said that they had seen all they wanted from the heights at St. Cloud. Each day he seemed eager to ascend in a bal- loon he saw floating as he happened to be in the Champs Elysees; they protesting and de- clining, he boldly said he was going alone. But What Marjorie Saw Abroad 95 immediately after this decision lie heard of a party who had gotten "stuck" up in the air overnight in the balloon, and he allowed himself to be dissuaded. Not that he would really not appreciate the experience of spending a night up in the purest part of the city, but time was valuable. It would take that much from the Louvre, in which he delighted. The garden of the Luxembourg is fascinating, and the Jardin des Plantes and Jardin d 'Accla- mation are especially enticing, the latter border- ing on the Bois de Boulogne. The Countess saw the gardeners working among the beds in one of the prettiest parts of the Jardins d 'Acclamation, and told the coach- man to stop and let her see the flowers. As she did so she bowed politely to the gar- deners and told them in French how well they kept them. In a few minutes a lovely bouquet was gathered by one of them and presented to the Countess. Marjorie and the Princess, com- ing up behind in their cab, looked quite envious. After teasing them a little, the Countess gave each a share. The new Hotel de Ville is probably the finest Eenaissance building in the world. The west facade is a beautiful example of sixteenth cen- tury architecture, with Corinthian columns, and fine pavilions in the center and at the corners. Niches hold statues of celebrated Parisians. It is situated between the Seine and Rue de Rivoli at the east end of the latter. The east side is 96 What Marjorie Saw Abroad very handsome, too. It is a sort of town hall, and there are different salles for the different departments. The Salles des Fetes, and large salon, on the first floor, are used for dinners, feasts, receptions, and the like. The staircase leading to this floor is exquisite. The decora- tions in the buildings surpass any in France. The best of Parisian art has been lavished on it. Elysees Palace, the President's residence, is very handsome and overlooks the Champs Ely- sees. St. Denis, four or five miles from Paris, is interesting for being the burial place of nearly all the French kings. The abbey was founded by Dagobert (628-638). It was pillaged several times during wars, and during the Eevolution (1793) it was devastated in a measure — the bronze tombs melted, the graves desecrated ; and not till the reign of Louis XVIII were the scat- tered remnants returned. Later, during the reign of Napoleon III, the abbey began to as- sume somewhat its original appearance. In the chapel of the nave are the tombs of Louis XII and Ann of Brittany, Henry II and Catherine de Medici — the last named a masterpiece, and one of the finest tombs of the Eenaissance. The crypt has the body of Louis XVIII in the center. Louis XVII and Marie Antoinette were taken from La Madeleine Cemetery and lie in the Bourbon tomb here. When the party left England, Ealph said while it might be great fun in time to be an earl What Marjorie Saiv 'Abroad 97 — that is, when he got old and had nothing else to think of — now he wanted to enjoy life; so he waited restlessly for a little time to pass. Then, a day or so before the party were leaving Paris, he appeared on the scene, accompanied by Peter. *'How are you going to find them, now you are here, and how do you know they have not leftr^ said Peter. ^^Whom do you mean by ^them' and HheyT' returned Ealph. ^^Well, 'her' and 'she,' if I must be explicit." Ealph glowered at him for the first time in his life. ''If you are going to be so testy, I'll give in and be silent, ' ' laughed Peter. ' ' Fiddlesticks ! ' ' muttered Ralph. ' ' You know as well as I do where they are and how long they meant to stay. ' ' Now, Peter was more touched with the Prin- cess's channs than he cared to admit. This little rift gave rise to a tacit understanding on the subject later, for matters went quite smoothly afterward between him and Ealph, and sunny France beheld them once more. Marjorie and the Princess were found and never seen without flowers now. Ealph was in somewhat of a pickle. Up to his return to London he had written to his father, in the United States, in glowing terms of his delightful tour, and also intimated his intention of an early journey to Ireland. Finding himself in France again instead of the 98 What Marjorie Saw Abroad Emerald Isle, lie actually did not know what ex- cuse to give, and put off writing altogether to his father, to whom he had heretofore written every week or so ; but Peter sent plausible let- ters home to a friend, so the elderly gentleman would know through the friend that the boys were still alive. Yet Mr. Duke naturally wondered why Ealph quit writing and why he had returned to France, when Ireland was to have been the resting spot. Nettled and uncertain, he procured the address from the friend, explaining that Ealph 's letters must have been lost, and boarded a steamer, dropping in on the youngsters before they were aware of his departure even. Ealph could give no excuse for his conduct, except that he liked Paris and did not believe in titles. *'My son,'' the old man said, very wisely, ^^ you have never used one, and you can really know nothing in regard to it. ' ' ^^ Well, if I did have one,'' Ealph replied, dog- gedly, ^^I would be stuck up like the rest; and you know what my mother thought about one man having so much more than another, when it was to that other's detriment, and site was well born. ' ' Ealph remembered his promise to that mother to be a dutiful son when she breathed her last, and in all his opposition he was respectful. And the father, softened by this, said : *^You can show the other peers how to be dif- ferent, if you think you find them wrong; there What Marjorie Saw Abroad 99 is room in Ireland to do good, and I liave the money. ' ^ ^'I am human and no better than others, per- haps, who have gone before me, and I might fail in the attempt," argued Kalph. Mr. Duke, the elder, had married late in life ; but the love that came then was his strong point, and the sweet wife whom he lost several years since still had an influence for good. ^'Well,'^ he said, in a conciliatory tone, ^'we may at least go over and see how things are, and then you can go around with me on the Con- tinent, since you do not seem to mind going to the same place twice. ' ' Over to Ireland they then went, Peter, in deli- cacy — now the father had come — remaining in Paris and promising to meet them in Venice, though they urged him to accompany them. Kalph was in great fear lest his father should remain too long to meet the party in Venice, but he thought he would try to manage it. In Ireland they found an old, tumble-down castle overgrown with vines, but a nice family living in the best part, who were the only known representatives of the former title. The head of this famih^ was looked upon as the lord of the dilapidated manor. Mr. Duke and Ealph put up at the village inn, and in due time presented themselves at the manor, after being sure, from sufficient research in the records of the place, that they were on the right track. In a nice way, which was habitual with them, hoffk 100 What Marjorie Saw Abroad they made the occupants acquainted with their design, and told them — ^what they had pre- viously agreed on — that they would not be dis- turbed for some time, as they had not yet de- cided whether they cared to assume the title; but, in case he and Ralph did, they would be lib- erally provided for. ^'Well, boy,'' remarked Mr. Duke, after he had run over Ireland some, ^Uet's hie away to other parts and see what there is to be seen. ' ' Ralph made himself especially agreeable, partly to get him to Venice in time, and partly through affection, and was continually discours- ing on the beauties, the pleasures and comfort of that city, until his father said : *^You have left your heart there, boy; let's go see who has it. ' ' Ralph turned sideways to hide the flush which he knew covered his face, and did it so adroitly the father never saw, and thought no more about it, for when they were on the way Ralph never mentioned Venice again. Ralph had talked to his father some about the Princess, the Countess and his Majesty, but never found the voice to speak of Marjorie. When the old man met Marjorie he was so struck with the change in Ralph, as they met, that he said softly to himself : '^She has it!" (meaning Ralph's heart) and he rejoiced that she would grace the title, if he could prevail on Ralph to accept it after him- self. CHAPTER VIII Fkom Paris our first party went through Bel- gium, a beautiful rolling country having canals running through it, being next door to Holland, which some say is all canals. They were going to Cologne, in Germany. As they went along, Marjorie thought she might see women in the fields, hitched in the plows with oxen, as she had heard something to that effect; but she saw nothing touching it, only some men pulling trucks with a dog tied under the latter. The Countess suggested that maybe they were beginning to believe in the higher education of women. The train ran along on the Meuse River most of the time, and when entering Belgium the bag- gage was examined a little on the train ; but on the German frontier the passengers had to alight, take the baggage in the station and open it for inspection. The party had only valises and hand-bags, having, as mentioned before, sent their trunks to Florence, Italy. Their bag- gage was put on a truck and carried into the station building and set upon benches in line, convenient for the purpose, the doors locked at the '^ausgang'' (exit) until all of the baggage was opened. This sounds very formidable, 101 102 What Marjorie Saw Abroad but there is notliing in it. Only a peep into the yawning bags and all is over. Foreigners are very courteous to Americans traveling through their country and encourage them by these little kindnesses. When one is tired it is so hard to have to pull everything out to be looked over. In France the officers only peeped into the bags and did not require the trunks to be opened, simply weighed them and charged the usual amount for shipping. Eeaching Cologne late in the evening, they went to the Hotel Ernst, opposite the great cathedral, and as early as possible next day went across to it. Here, too, the beadle wore a red gown trimmed in black bands, and carried a long gilt staflP with a knob at the end. His province seemed to be to keep order, and Mar- jorie thought he took advantage of it. He would not let tourists walk arm in arm in the building, which everybody thought singular, for travelers are so tired sometimes it is a relief to lean on somebody. Marjorie said he was a ^^cross beadle, anyway. ' ' The Countess and the Princess did not under- stand what he meant, as he spoke German, but his action and tone sounded as though he were ordering them out. A short service was going on at the far end, and they were only whispering about what they saw. But this was often the case in the churches, and it was never noticed; in fact, it was just what everybody did. Per- haps he was the only beadle who thoroughly did What Marjorie Saiv '^Abroad 103 his duty. So tliey left; but Marjorie, who was taking in the outside, returned with them to find out what was the matter, and he became more polite. The cathedral, founded in 1248, was not finished until 1863. For centuries there was no work done on it. Outside and inside it appears to be light gray stone, and so artistically wrought it seems light and airy — like lacework. The great spires tower up delicately, and were only com- pleted in 1880. Figures and gargoyles make a display outside. Inside figures are more nu- merous than in any cathedral they saw, and each one is a little history in itself. One ancient ptained-glass window — the second on the left — delineates the genealogical tree of Christ. The fifth window, nearly opposite the above, has St. Apollinaris in stained glass. Marjorie said when she was drinking Apolli- naris at the different hotels she never suspected there was a saint of that name. The Princess said she did not, either. When she was here be- fore she had not noticed this particular saint. His Majesty smiled in an indulgent way at what he thought was their foolishness ; but the Count- ess remarked that it was not so silly as it seemed, if it would help them to remember the window. The columns in the cathedral are elegant, reaching majestically up until they meet in arches across and under the roof, adorned with figures and showing other handsome appoint- 104 What Marjorie Saw Abroad ments. Tombs near the altars, and eight chap- els adjoining the cathedral contain days of pleasure. This is one of the few churches which has pews in it. The treasury, entered by the vestry, contains relics of immense value, and is kept doubly locked. The shrine of St. Engelbert is one of the chief treasures. It is of solid silver, gilded and decorated highly, encrusted with precious stones, and standing apart in the room. In a cupboard ranged around the walls of the same room are relics of jewels, robes, mitres, and what-not, dazzling in their splendor — rubies and emeralds as large as chestnuts in them, and used, perhaps, on great occasions. The market places were bright with tastefully arranged vegetables and appetizing fruits. Bright flowers in profusion, intermingled with the market people 's quaint clothes and customs (they sit flat on the pavement, surrounded by their merchandise) , made a very interesting pic- ture, and the ladies took a snapshot in the face of it. His Majesty was surprised to learn that the population was three hundred thousand, and increasing all the time. Hearing of an Exposition at Dusseldorf , they took the train for that city. The Exposition was like all they had seen, but had the advantage of being presented on the picturesque Ehine. It was an educator, as far as their way of conduct- ing it was concerned, and a most creditable one for ^ city of itg size. What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 105 Spending the day here, and returning to Co- logne in the late afternoon, they started next morning for their trip up the Khine. Marjorie was over at the cathedral when it was time to start, and lingering so long, looking at the jewels, his Majesty went after her, and forgot his overcoat in his anxiety lest they should miss the boat. This he did not discover until fairly on the boat. His other (or heavier) coat was in the trunk on the way to Florence, presumably, and the Countess was worried, thinking it would not be found, and the Alpine trip so cold without it. Of course, there were numerous overcoats in stores, but none at hand, and his Majesty was so particular about his clothes it would take a good deal of shopping, and thereby consume much time to procure one in a strange city, even if she could induce him to wear a ready-made one. But there was warm underwear in his valise, which she thought might do in a measure instead of the light over- coat. A thoughtful silence took the place of his usual good nature for a time, when the Princess suggested that he telegraph for it at the first stopping place. He did so, though it seemed a long time to him before he reached it, and or- dered the coat sent to Mayence, where they were to leave the Ehine. This done, the atmosphere around the party cleared (mentally and physi- cally, the weather not being good when they set out), which was well, as they were approaching 106 What Marjorie Saw Abroad the grand panorama of the Rhine, including monuments, towns, castles, ruins and natural scenery with a long history in the background. Marjorie was glad to lay eyes on Bonn, a city of fifty thousand inhabitants, even if she could not get oif and hunt up the house Beethoven was born in. In the vicinity of Castle Drachen- fels the stone was quarried for the Cathedral of Cologne, and the Castle was interesting by reason of its age — ^being built in the twelfth cen- tury. Even the ruins along the river seemed occupied. Marjorie said she saw two girls and a boy on the cliff at Shonberg Castle (worse than a ruin), and that one of the girls wore a pink gown. She envied them what she thought was the romance of living up there. Pontoon draw-bridges are used mostly across the Ehine, and the boat passed through one. Bliicher passed over one in 1814 when in pur- suit of Napoleon I. The river seemed to the party as wide as the Hudson in some places, and contains islands after the manner of the St. Lawrence, but they are by no means so numerous. On one island they passed a castle (which Marjorie said just fitted the island) with many towers, called the Pflaz, built in 1326 on a rock in the middle of the Ehine, and once a fortress. This was exceedingly interesting. One sees the hillsides encompassing the river crowded with grapevines. Stone walls, from base to crest, are run along in terraces to keep What Marjorie Saw Abroad 107 the steep hills from sliding where the grapes are planted. At first one wonders what they are, for they are too regularly placed to be thought a natural formation. At times the bank of the river is low, with the outline of a mountain showing from the back. In some of these low places there are beautiful homes, with arbors for outdoor meals, terraced to the water's edge. Trees and undergrowth make shade everywhere in the Old Country. A row of trees is nipped and pruned until it forms a sort of roof over- head. Other trees are trained into vines above, forming a dense shade. The Ahr, Mosel, the Lahn and other rivers meet the Ehine on the way, making a variety by cutting the cliffs and extending the view at their intersections. Prince Henry's castle was pointed out, and presented a very handsome appearance. One great rambling structure was said to be under- going repairs for some wealthy man's comfort in the way of a summer home. As the boat landed at Bingen the party no- ticed it had a pontoon wharf, and watched the taking on and off of freight over it, a reminder of every-day life on this stream of beauty. Automobiles and bicycles spin by on shore, and steam cars run by on a wall and through tunnels with castellated openings. After ten hours on the beautiful Ehine, the party got oif at Mayence, about lamp-light, and went to the Hotel du Khin, 108 What Marjorie Saw Abroad The Countess was given the room occupied once by Queen Victoria when she visited that city. The latter 's mother trotted her around a good deal when she was a girl, and it may have been one of those times — the informer did not say. It was a large room and had more wide doors than the Countess cared to see were se- curely fastened every night. A tall porcelain stove stood in one side of the room, but the cli- mate improves after one leaves England and there was no need for it at that season. The Princess informed the others that she had half a dozen beds in her room at one place, and they ran in to see and found three. She was amusing herself at their expense. His Maj- esty said he would like her to owe him some- thing, if that was the way she counted. But he also said that was not a circumstance to what he found in a hotel in Illinois once — that there were actually seven beds in a room which they gave him, which the Countess and Marjorie vouched for, they making a pleasure trip with him through the hills just back of the Ohio Elver. The much-talked-of feather beds used in Ger- many for covers increase in size as one pro- ceeds. Those at Mayence are huge, and in the daytime are stuffed in large lace squares and laid on the outside of the bed. Marjorie said it made her warm to look at them at that time of the year, however comfortable they might be in winter, and that she threw hers in the wardrobe What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 109 every night and tried to liide it; but the maid as persistently found it and put it on the bed again. The party was surprised at the beauty and progress of Germany. The people impressed them as being fair and handsome, exceedingly gracious, very neat, and so systematic in every- thing one is not much bothered traveling here. Mayence was founded the year 14 B. C. Driv- ing around, the party saw some signs of its early origin. Among other interesting features, the monument to Schiller, capped by his statue, is a pleasure to see. The railway bridge in place of the old i3ontoon, the promenades, and the Duke's castle are places to note. The city has ninety thousand inhabitants, and has wonderful fortifications, which the whole party took an interest in. At this point the river is quite wide. The Ehine streams down from the St. Gothard Mountains in Switzerland. It is not quite eight hundred miles long, and it may be interesting to know that the distance is not much over four hundred miles in a straight line from its source to its mouth. On the way to Strasburg, by train from May- ence, they again passed through the grape coun- try, so neat and trim, but more level than the Ehine region. The vines are run over low trel- lises or poles. In the middle of a vineyard there is always an arbor, presumably to drink beer or wine in. The train passed through some corn crops, 110 What Marjorie Saw Abroad but the corn was only two feet high and tas- seling. , The party had had cornmeal only twice since leaving home, and this was served as a mush, accompanying meats, in Paris. In Italy the corn grows a fair size, but Marjorie said they must give it all to the horses, for she never saw it in any shape. They saw tobacco fields occasionally in Ger- many, and hops ran all over the country, along their route to Strasburg, over tall poles con- nected at the top with wires, or twine, making a tangled mass. When his Majesty's supply of American to- bacco gave out he had such a distaste for the foreign it was possible to procure he gave up tobacco entirely, and the Countess said later that some good had come out of the European trip. It was not their original intention to stop at Strasburg, but it was on the way of their itin- erary, and Marjorie begged so to see the great clock there they spent an afternoon in that city, going immediately to the cathedral where it is kept. This clock, it is said, was built near six- teen hundred, destroyed during the many wars, and rebuilt from 1837 to 1842. It is in a room on the right, not far from the altar, and one has to be let in to see it through a door which is kept locked until the hour comes for the imposing beadle to open it to tourists. He then explains the mechanism and tells its history for a trifle. What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 111 Plis Majesty told Marjorie, after lie came home, that he thought it was about sixty feet high, when she appealed to his memory ; but in a great cathedral heights are deceptive, and it was a long time after to ask, when he had not thought much about it at the time. Every quarter hour a stationary Cupid sit- ting about the middle, in front, taps on a bell twice, which he has in his hand. The first quar- ter, a child walks from a little door above, across a short porch in front, and strikes, in passing, a bell held by a stationary figure of death, then disappears through another door. The next quarter a young man comes out on the same porch when the Cupid strikes. In passing death he also strikes death's bell, and disap- pears through the other door; then it is half- past any hour during the day. The third quar- ter a middle-aged man comes out, striking death, and disappears ; then it is fifteen minutes to the hour. The fourth quarter an old man comes out and does what the others have done. At the same time a Cupid beside the other Cupid turns an hour-glass, and the process is repeated, ex- cept at night, when, Marjorie suggested, *^A11 the moving figures retire till morning to get a night's rest." The explanation gave much amusement to the beadle. At twelve o'clock a life-size cock, perched on the upper corner of the clock, crows — whether at noon or midnight they failed to ascertain — while a figure of St. Peter comes out and walks 112 IVhat Marjorie Saw Abroad past a stationary fignre of Christ on an upper porch, St. Peter disappearing as the figures on the lower porch had done. The figures are a foot high — at least they seemed so, except the cock, which looks life-size. The face of the clock is below the Cupids. Above them are seven different chariots, each with a day of the week on an outer wheel, the right chariot coming out every day and driving across the space allotted to it, disappearing when the day is closed. A large dial near indi- cates the hour of sun setting and rising. An- other shows ecclesiastical time; still another, solar time. It is wound up once a year. Strasburg is very pretty because of the two rivers, the 111 and the Breusch, which run through it, and because of its unique architec- ture. Strasburg and the immediate vicinity was for many years considered a kind of golden apple, contended for by France and Germany — tossed between them from time to time — and when Germany last and finally claimed it, forty-five thousand French left for France rather than see it in the hands of Germany or become Ger- man citizens. They had the alternative. Marjorie remembered the mourning wreath on the statue of Strasburg in the Place de la Concorde, and did not wonder at the Frenchy look of many things, nor did the Countess won- der at the French language being so much in evidence. She could talk some now to stran- What Marjorie Sato Abroad 113 gers. In Germany, Marjorie usually had the floor. The fortifications around Strasburg are immense, and so arranged that the surrounding moats can be flooded by the garrison to keep an enemy out. CHAPTEE IX Leaving Strasbnrg late one afternoon by train, tliey reached the foothills of the Alps the same evening. Their dark green against the brilliant sky; the distant haze; the blue-green of poplars and other trees on the light-green ground, with the natives working there in the hay, reminded the party of the Angelus picture. A pretty setting was made by the numerous vil- lages in the valley and the castles on high in the distance. At last they reached Lucerne, a beautiful city — so white and brilliant, as they drove along to the Hotel Rivoli, that the Countess said it reminded her of the World's Fair at Chicago. Marjorie awoke early the next morning, arose and went to the front window at once. As she drew the curtain back Lake Lucerne lay before her — ^mountains, some white with snow; castles, trees, vines and flowers in great profusion around the hotel. She noticed a balcony, too, with chairs and a table, which she had not per- ceived the night before in her tired condition. Here, when too fatigued to do otherwise, she could sit and drink it all in to intoxication, if she chose. Such an ensemble is rarely seen at one time. 114 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 115 The city is steeply terraced, and steps wind up all over it. There are thirty thousand inhab- itants, if not more. The Ecus Eiver flows through it and gives a pleasing effect. Its banks are curbed, and on them are rows of trees, mak- ing shady walks and drives along the river brink. Gondolas rock along the river and boats skim along the lake. It is all so tropical, so southern-looking, the charm is felt at once. The old bridge, with a tower near one end, is differ- ent from any bridge any one ever saw in the world, perhaps. It has a pointed roof, open at the sides, and is built of wood. In the gables of the roof are triangular paintings, at regular intervals, giving the old history of the city. The swans sporting about the tower are very grace- ful and quite tame. German seems to be the native language, but many speak English and French. One of the most interesting works of art in Lucerne, or anywhere, is the great Lion monument. It is boldly carved out of solid rock imbedded in a hillside, and commemorates a historical event in Swiss life. Street cars in Lucerne are similar to those in the United States, and were recognized as old friends by the travelers, they having seen only trams (clumsy things) in England, and two-story af- fairs in Prance, except in Cologne. His Majesty and family usually rode in a car- riage at home, but sometimes found street cars very convenient. The only trouble about riding in them abroad, you never know where they are 116 What Marjorie Saiu Abroad goingj and if you are not familiar with the lan- guage it is diflicult to find out ; on the other hand, if you g'et in a cab you can tell the coachman where to take you — he understands the name, if not the language. Seeing a castle high up on a hill, which Mar- jorie thought looked interesting from the old bridge, where she and her father were standing, she begged him to get her up there. He was leaning over the rails watching the swans, and felt somewhat lazy, but Marjorie insisting, they boarded a car and rode to the foot of the hill. It looked very steep to both of them, but they got on the cog-wheel car and slowly, slowly mounted until they reached what is called The Gutclie, a restaurant and castle, with tables un- der the trees, where the crowd assembled. It took them two and a half minutes to get up — the owners claim — ^but Marjorie said it seemed like fifteen. She wisely turned her back on all below and looked straight ahead of her, it seemed so dangerous; but so many did it she thought it must be safe. His Majesty sat facing her, and enjoyed the view behind her as they went up. She thought it was grand up there. Thousands of tall, slender pine trees formed a weird shade, and the silence was mysterious — by contrast with the life at the castle, only a stone's throw away. Beyond — from the bare cliffs — a vast panorama : the Alps, with snowy Titlus ; the lake, the Ecus and other little rivers ; the towns ; the bridges ; the tunnels ; the towers What Marjorie Saiu Abroad 117 of the old wall; the moving humanity, were spread before them, and Marjorie said she was glad she was living, as she sat on the terrace and listened to the music on the castle porch, made by the harp, the violin and other stringed pieces. ^'Are you not glad I made you comef said she to his Majesty, as they started away. ^^It was worth seeing,"' he replied. The stores at Lucerne are full of beautiful things — embroidery, especially, which one sees women doing at the doors of the shops, some- times sitting outside to get a good light, em- broidering all kinds of garments in most exqui- site designs. One sees carvings in wood, stone, ivory and celluloid here. Jewels are numerous and dazzling. Th-e Princass said it was a fine place to buy embroidered dresses. It was more like an American city than any they had seen, united with the advantages of the Old World. Here one can look at everything without buying, and not be considered mean. In France the sellers get displeased if one looks and does not like the article well enough to buy. A trip on Lake Lucerne is charming. Shrines are much in evidence on the way, one, a life-size figure of Christ extending His arms on the edge of a green bank; and there are statues of saints, crosses and crucifixes. On the water one sees carriage drives along the cliff edges of the mountains or hills meeting the lake; tunnels opening for them and the St. Gothard road; 118 WJiat Marjorie Saw Abroad green slopes^ homes, castles and trees filling other places. The graceful decline of the green mountains, mingled with the rugged, snow-capped ones, is novel indeed. The city of Brunnen and the Mythen, which are passed on Lake Fluelen, are an example. Getting off the boat shout noon at Fluelen, the party and some others drove on the tops of Alpine coaches back from the lake to Altdorf , among the mountains, to see a statue of William Tell and his son. Here a good luncheon was served at the Lion Hotel. Before reaching this landing they passed a church said to be erected where the valiant William Tell escaped from a boat Gessler was taking him to prison in. Swiss girls waited on the tables at the hotels, and did it very nicely. In the evenings at Lucerne, on the broad gal- lery overlooking the lake — among the vines and flowers — a Swiss band in costume played their native airs ; the moon shone bris^htly on the lake and everywhere, and a searchlight, high on a mountain peak, at intervals threw out a most effula^ent radiance. Brienz. the next point, is on a lake of the same name. The party reached it from Lucerne, by train, over the Briinig Pass. There are several routes through the Alps — all s:rand — ^but our travelers chose those in which they were under the impression they could see most. The cars were provided with narrow side galleries and high railings, for they were now getting among What Marjorie Saw Abroad 119 the mountains of Switzerland in earnest, and the sights were thrilling in the extreme. There was no sense of fear — all other senses were drowned by that of sight. Tunnel after tunnel was traversed as they mounted the cliffs, and soon the train was divided and a mountain en- gine attached to each division. The valley is magnificent. Lakes, canals, cultivated fields, Swiss chalets (on the mountainsides) are ever interesting, and a near view of snowy mountains is very beautiful to look upon. The odor of Swiss clover in the valley rises on the air to the heights, making them fragrant. In one stretch of country a great flume runs through the val- ley. It was made to let the water run down from a mountain gully, they were told, which it was supposed, from it^ appearance, had been a great basin of water that an earthquake had cracked in two, letting the torrent down and causing much devastation until the flume collected the riotous waters and gave them only one safe way of escape. From Brienz they went by boat to Interlaken, at the other end of the lake. Here they saw the peerless white Jungfrau (young wife), because the white snow falls like a bridal veil — the mountain is always covered with it. At sunset it takes on a yellow glow, later a pink. Under a line of sycamore trees, which had been trimmed (as has elsewhere been mentioned) to form a shed, the party walked or sat, and watched the lovely work of nature, wedged — from their point 320 What Marjorie Saw 'Abroad of view — ^between two verdant mountains, as- sume its different hues till night drew a darker veil and shut out the scene. They went to the Casino, not far off. The great porch forms a semicircle around the band gallery in front, where are chairs and tables for refreshments, which one purchases to get seats and watch the crowd, listening to the music, though many are attracted by the play. It is nothing more than a betting table where a mini- ature railroad runs around, and one has to stake so much on where he or she thinks it is going to stop. Marjorie said she wanted to try her luck, but his Majesty said that he did not see anybody winning, and after watching a while they went out. It was arranged by the party to go to Gundel- wald from Interlaken, in order to get right into a glacier. Slowly the train went up to Gundel- wald — though none of the trains at any time run as fast as those in the United States — getting nearer and nearer to the snow-clad mountains. The train stopped finally and the climbers went to the Bear Hotel. Bears surround it completely — sitting, stand- ing, small or large. A bear fountain lets water through its mouth; bears stand at the head of the garden steps and at the foot, but they are harmless, being made of a composition of rock and cement. Marjorie said they were the best kind — they were **so cute," and one could not go near the live ones. , | _ , ; ^ What Marjorie Saw Abroad 121 She had seen huge ones come down to feed near a hotel in the Yellowstone Park, but they always ran when any one approached close enough to get a good view. The Eiger, the Weisserhorner and the Vetter- horn are conspicuous at Gundelwald, but the party took carriages and rode where they could get right up to the snow-clad Vetterhorn. One is surprised at the hotels built among these lofty peaks ; at the vegetation, fruit and comforts to be had. Marjorie picked an ane- mone at the foot of the glacier near the division line of green and white. Up here one sees at every turn the wood carving Switzerland is so noted for. Stopping at one of these hotels, they alighted and walked pleasantly along among fir trees and other growth until they came to the glacier of the Vetterhorn. It was a little rough, but no one in the party thought it irksome — only ex- ceedingly interesting; for, after climbing a lit- tle, they reached the entrance and walked right into the glacier about a hundred yards. It had been dug out to accommodate tourists. The ceil- ing was arched, planks underfoot, and a light here and there, with a limb of a cedar tree over it to make it cheerful or to serve as a shrine — so common throughout this country and Italy — for lights are not necessary to find the way. This grotto in the glacier is a lovely crystalline blue, illuminated by the reflected light which 122 What Marjorie Saw Abroad comes in at the entrance, and it is not the least uncomfortable in here. Returning to. Gundelwald and lunching at the Bear Hotel, they drove down into the valley over many bridges, crossing and recrossing the mountain stream, and getting a fine view of the country. Marjorie wanted a dear little wild chamois some one had captured and wished to sell, but his Majesty thought he had enough to attend to already, and had no idea of adding such an animal to the souvenirs. High up in the Alps one sees verdure, homes, gardens, farms, goats and the wild chamois. There are many towns, and good roads — the party thought made especially for tourists, so many go there — wdth hotels on the way, indicat- ing the need of them. In the most important vil- lages the torchon lace makers sit in their door- ways to attract the passers-by, and the way their bobbins fly over their cushions is interesting to watch, and never a mistake in the fine, even lace. At a nice little village there is always something to get out for — a change of horses, a lunch, or a rest — and the pretty lace looks very tempting. Sometimes the natives come up to the carriage and beg you to buy. Even little children are expert at lace-making. The chalets hang — one thinks in the distance — all over the cliffs, and rest in the valleys. Driving after d^rk, as one does at times return- ing from an excursion, the whole region in sight is dotted with lights shining from the homes of What Marjorie Saw Abroad 123 the Swiss. Way up on a peak a bright glimmer, high enough for a star — one thinks — shows a habitation. It is highly probable that the Swiss derive much of their income from tourists. While there is much verdure over the moun- tains up to the icy peaks — vegetation, fruit and all — there does not seem to be any special re- munerative crop. Their cheese is delicious, and the party thought they fared well at the hotels. Through the valleys the working people were cutting grass with scythes — men and women in the fields. His Majesty remarked he would like to introduce mowing machines among them, they looked so hard-worked and careworn. There were no carts to carr;/ off the hay, but women with great baskets on their backs, reach- ing far above their heads, were loaded up with it. Even in Paris they saw errand boys with a range of large boxes, twelve feet high, strapped on their backs. Who would do that in the United States! Though history shows the Swiss to be brave and patriotic, they seem a kindly race, and the party did not feel as if they were being cheated out of their wits, as they did in some of the countries they traveled through. The Alpine trains are comfortable enough. Nothing to dread going through the tunnels, for they are lighted mostly by electricity, and many of the cliffs are lighted by a succession of arches. CHAPTER X. Eetuening to Interlaken from Giindelwald, our tourists went a sliort distance on the train to Lake Thun, there taking a boat for the city of Thun, on the opposite side. From Thun they took the train for Lausanne, on the north side of Lake Geneva. These changes may be interesting to those not knowing by experience the manner of reaching the lakes of Switzerland, but Marjorie said she no sooner got settled than she got unsettled, which was no small matter, as her thoughts were still on Shakespeare, in her hand-bag, when a new move was made. The baggage had slowly but surely increased. There were men and boys around ready to grab it at every turn — at all the points of change^ — ^but it engendered a cer- tain watchfulness, which all the party took a share in, and it became quite irksome. Some- times a native, intuitively, it seems, will run off with your baggage and put it in the right place before you know he has even wanted to do it, and it required eternal vigilance to keep up with these porters. The beauty of Lake Thun, in the Swiss Alps ; the beauty of the way to Geneva; the many 124 What Marjorie Saio Abroad 125 Swiss chalets of natural wood scattered all over the mountains and valleys, giving life to that world; the cattle; the ploughmen; the raspber- ries, the figs, the pears and apples they ate, were pleasant afterward to recall. ''Food for the mind and food for the body,'' the Princess laughingly said. As Lake Geneva met her gaze, Marjorie thought she had never known any scene quite so beautiful. The light green verdure on the hills next the water, the hazy blue of more dis- tant ones, and the silver light from a beclouded sky taking in afar — on the horizon — a bright golden streak let down by a happy opening in the clouds just at that line of vision. In places gleaming white rocks showed bare. When they reached the National Hotel and looked through its colonnade, its garden, saw the lake and, beyond, Mont Blanc, Marjorie was silent with satisfaction. They were all hungry, of course, and the din- ner at eight P.M. was highly enjoyed. It was so elaborate and delicious, so handsomely served by the most courteous and capable of waiters, the Countess said she almost understood what it might mean to be a sure-enough Princess. The band played in the great hall, where most of the guests adjourned for coffee^ — little tables for serving scattered about. Others played ping- pong or chatted in luxurious chairs or on divans. At the brink of the Rhone in Geneva the wash- ing is done on a kind of stationary flat-bottomed 126 What Marjorie Saw Abroad boat, the women leaning over the side toward the water as they splash and rnb the clothes. The Princess thought they had to rnb so hard she did not suppose the clothes lasted very long. As usual, the ladies visited the stores. The music store where they make a specialty of music boxes is a curiosity. Music is put into chairs, vases, cups, tables, and wherever it can be put. Every one knows how a G-eneva watch is prized ; the ladies each purchased one, with a pin to fasten it on the outside. After a certain size, the smallest seemed the most costly, on ac- count of the minute and delicate mechanism. Calvin's house was of great interest to them. In his day he was ostracised, but returned with great power to spread his religious views. The interest his Majesty took in the house was prompted principally by the curious old stutf that was in it, for it is now used as an armory and a museum. The coats of mail are so heavy the men who wore them must have been pretty stout, and Marjorie said : ^'No wonder David asked Saul to take that thing off of him when he went after Goliath. ' ' It was with difficulty the Countess could hold a helmet in her hands. ^ ^ And think of it being on a man's head, ' ' said the Princess. * ' The Europeans have lived so close to what may become an enemy at any time they have ever kept prepared for war, which these weapons certainly prove," said his Majesty. What Marjorie Saw Abroad 127 The lake shore at Geneva is less precipitous than at Lucerne, the high hills being farther back, giving a wider scope of vision. The little sailboats with two sails (triangular and pointed) they saw only on this lake, though I believe they appear on the Nile. A large flock of sea-gulls followed their boat — La Suisse — from Geneva to Villeneuve, at the other end of Lake Geneva. People on the boat threw bread to them all the way, and it was fascinating to see a cloud of them fly for it, dipping into the water in a grace- ful way peculiar to these birds. "When Marjorie saw the Castle of Chillon, where Bounivard was imprisoned, just before reaching Villeneuve, she said one of her dreams had been realized. Byron's poem, *'The Pris- oner of Chillon,'' is read at its full value after seeing it. Leaving Villeneuve, they got into the valley of the Ehone, which is diversified by high peaks, castles, streams, waterfalls and cities. They reached Brigue at seven P.M. and re- mained all night at Hotel d'Angleterre. Before retiring they took a walk, and were surprised to find it such a quaint place. It is hundreds of years old, and has no regular streets, only crooked ways, and a few dim lights in the most frequented places at night. Some of the alleys led to arches in unexpected places, and they saw so many groups whispering together — in dark corners, in idioms none of the party were famil- iar enough with to understand even if they over- 128 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad heard — they did not extend their walk very far. In monntain coaches drawn by fonr or six horses, the baggage buckled on behind, they started about eight next morning for the great Simplon Pass, cut through solid rock by order of Napoleon I. They preferred this overland route as giving a wider scope over the Alps. A tunnel, not then finished, for railroad trains, was being constructed through the Alps here, which was intended to be longer than the great St. Gothard. At first the stages — of which th^re were several — went slowly, the way was so steep. Along the pass are houses called stations of refuge, for giving assistance to travelers, and where Newfoundland dogs are kept to help. The Princess, his Majesty and Marjorie got left at one of the stations. The Countess was waiting for them in the conveyance, but they failed to appear as the coachman cracked his long whip and started off. She wanted to get out and wait with them, if the coachman could not be induced to wait or turn around, but when she thought of the baggage mixed up with others, and how long it would take to get it out, she knew it would be useless to ask for that, and concluded to stay with it. However, she made known her situa- tion to the coachman, after going a little dis- tance, and prevailed upon him to wait a little ; but he, becoming impatient, started off again while she was still hoping they would appear. Meanwhile, the three were writing picture What Marjorie Saw Abroad 129 postal cards, wlien the Princess, who had just finished hers, heard suspicious sounds, then none at all, and ran out to see. Marjorie had not yet paid for her card, as she did not have the change, and was waiting for her father to finish his before asking him for it. They threw down their pens and flew to the door when the Princess announced the situation, the postal cards fluttering no one knew where. Nothing in sight, they started a trot up the mountain, but not a sign of the coach. A wheel- man passing kindly told the Princess he would try to prevail on the coachman to wait ; so they continued, the Princess, having started in ad- vance, reaching the stage first. She had much difficulty getting him to wait a few minutes longer. She explained to him that his Majesty and Marjorie were ^^Southerners,'' and had never put their feet on the ground to walk, and could not get along any faster — a subterfuge, but it answered. They came up panting, though her father had to almost drag her along the last few steps ; and the Countess resumed her cheer- ful demeanor once more, and all enjoyed a most delightful drive. Looking back from time to time, the way seemed but a thread on the moun- tainside. Here the country is bold in the extreme, and numbers of icy peaks loom up between the lower ones. There are shrines on the way to cheer the faithful in the land. The galleries cut through solid rock are remarkable — made on the edge 130 What Marjorie Saw Abroad of tlie cliffs and arclied — the coaches going right through. One gallery had a waterfall dash- ing over it. Looking back or forward, wherever they happened to be, these galleries were very ornamental. On the ridge overloking Monte Leone, the highest point of the Simplon Pass, they found a large hospice erected by Napoleon. It dispenses the same hospitality as the great Hospice of St. Bernard, southwest of it, in the neighborhood of Mont Blanc. It was bequeathed to the Augustine Brethren. The second floor of the hospice is reached by a pair of front steps. Here are accommodations for belated travelers, a chapel, the brothers, also the dogs so faithful in their search. The lower floor seems to be used as a stable. Going over the Simplon Pass one crosses many bridges, many galleries alluded to, and passes nine refuges, also spoken of. After leav- ing the hospice they began to descend the Alps. The road was so rough with broken ice and mo- raine matter (stone and drift), in great hills and dripping around them by reason of the melting ice, they had to get out and walk some distance until they had passed the debris. One of the most notable features in Berisal, where they lunched, was the delightful wine *^Asti Spumenti." His Majesty said a sip of it tasted like a bunch of ripe grapes squeezed out and taken at once. Marjorie said she never wanted to drink any other, and ordered it at dinner whenever she could get it. Our tourists What Marjorie Saw Abroad 131 were not what is called wine-bibbing people, but were afraid of foreign waters. Descending the Simplon Pass, the scenery was gorgeous. Not so many snow mountains, for they bid good-by to these when they left the Alecthorn in the Burnese Alps, but gigantic rocks, waterfalls, an ancient arched bridge^ — pedestrians and others having to go up and down over it as they crossed the chasm over the mountain stream far below — - rivers tumbling down the rocks in wealth of foam. Thus they crossed the great Alps. Swit- zerland seems but a mass of peoples, mountains, valleys, rivers and lakes, with flocks of snowy peaks. Finally they reached the stone pillar notifying them that they were in Italy. It made Marjorie feel good to be in Italy, the home of the Caesars, the center of the world in ancient times, the scene of so much that is interesting to the world at large from time immemorial. The first part of the road went through dirty villages, and the flies swarmed very unpleas- antl}^ at these places, but only for a little. Cross- ing the line, the baggage went through the in- spection office at a suitable place. At six P.M. of the same day they reached Domodossola — a small town in Italy — from Brigue, and remained over night. The next day they were to start the tour of the Italian lakes. The Ville and Poste Hotel, where they put up at Domodossola, runs around a court, with a vine-clad inner porch up- 132 What Marjorie Savj Abroad stairs, where tlie bedrooms are. The vine is so thick it makes a good screen. The court below is paved, and adorned with statues and flowers in pots. Large arches give entrance to vehicles ; chairs and tables are about, near the dining-room and library, making of it a sitting-room at that end, it having a pleasant shade morning or evening. At the outer end vehicles were put when not in use. At one P.M. the party took the train for an hour, and then drove six miles in an open carry- all with top over a nice white road (all roads are white in Italy) for Pallanza, on Lake Mag- giore. The drive was through a beautiful Italian country, where one sees quarries of white stone and lovely rural scenes of southern type; then it turned upon Lake Maggiore, the road in good order, and many handsome villas picturesquely terraced on the lake. At Pallanza they took a boat to explore Lake Maggiore, which carried them to Luino, on the eastern shore ; all in daytime, to see the glories awaiting them. From Luino they took the train again for Port Tressa. On this route the train rambles around a graceful stream having the Swiss frontier on one side and Italy on the other. Soldiers of both nationalities are in evidence on their respective sides. From Port Tressa to Lugano, on the lake of the same name, they went by boat, making five changes between one What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 133 P.M. and eight P.M. of the same day. There was no great hnrry, however; all quietly and cheerfully done, for the beauty of it is unsur- passed, dwelling in the memory for years to come, and it economizes time to do it thus. At Lugano they remained overnight. The lake is very beautiful, and they had the opportunity to observe every aspect of it — the wooded banks sloping abruptly and almost evenly along the sky-line; the bright moon; the after-glow of sunset still lingering around the highest. ^'It was incense to the soul," Mar- jorie said, as she sat right still and watched it with a loving eye. Her room at the hotel overlooked the lake, and again she had the opportunity to study its beauties. As young as she was, she had the wit to study the principal points wherever she found herself, then to take in the details. The hotel was an old castle, and fairly reveled in arches, pillars, and places pertaining to castles. Here at Lugano the ladies found mosaics of beautiful design, and each must have a pin of some sort. Crossing Lugano — for it is a long, bending lake, and they were still on the same side as Port Tressa, from which place they had started — they arrived at Porlezza, took a train for Menaggio, on Lake Como, and, crossing over to the opposite shore, took lunch at Bellagio. Bell agio is a quaint Italian city, the bank of the lake so precipitous the streets at right an- gles to it are mounted by stone steps. One 134 IV hat Marjorie Saw Abroad street in particular is composed entirely of steps all the way. The buildings in most Italian cities are connected by covered bridges over the streets, which give a singular air. In our coun- try we like to be to ourselves, and do not appre- ciate these connecting links. His Majesty all along contended that they were made originally for the nobles in old times, to escape from their enemies in times of danger. In Bellagio many buildings fronting the lake have massive arched colonnades on the ground floor, where the merchandise is set out to tempt the tourists, also chairs and tables for refresh- ments. Pretty, gayly cushioned boats, with linen tops, which can be let back after sunset, like a buggy top, await those who wish to be on the water. Poor women are washing clothes at the brink, using their curious washboards (on which they kneel and rub the articles), as well as a good deal of soap and patience to get the dirt out. But the lake is a large washtub, and they can rinse and rinse without any lifting or emptying. Ascending the steep side street, with the steps going across, already mentioned, one not ini- tiated is disposed to think it a gala day. On either side a line of highly colored banners deco- rate the street, which, on close inspection, are found to be Eoman blankets. Going in the first door where one is hanging out, one finds a loom, and some girls making the blankets and scarfs this place is noted for. The blankets and the What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 135 peculiar construction of the street make it very attractive. Farther up the street, and all through the town, are boxes, tables, and many articles of inlaid wood for sale. Marjorie liked one with a checker-board top, which threw out a little drawer when one pressed on a certain square of its top. ^^Oh," she said, ^Hhis will do to keep my jew- elry in, and I shall not have to be bothered with a key.'' ''What is to prevent any one from running off with it r ' said his Majesty. ' ' It is so small. ' ' ''Oh, well, I can the better hide it some- where,'' she replied. The Countess bought one like a book, with m^^sterious openings, in one of which the key can be hid. His Majesty got match-boxes, and the Princess purchased any number of small articles. The wooden shoes the working classes wear looked so comfortable and cool for warm weather — not to say pretty — Marjorie thought she might wear a pair herself in summer in the house ; but when she examined them and found a heel under the ball of the foot, as well as where it usually is, she decided to get only a tiny pair for a memento. After lunch at Bellagio they took a boat late in the afternoon for Como, on Lake Como, giv- ing them the opportunity to see the lake by day and by night. 136 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad The mountains or hills around the lake are of different shades — some light green, some dark, some bine in the extreme, then fading away in the dim distance to pale azure; m.oun- tain after mountain so interlaced one sees al- most a vista of them. Many odd-looking houses, as well as villages, are scattered along the lake. It being long and narrow, there is no time when one cannot see well across. The effect is roman- tic and shadowy, especially when the full moon floods the whole, and lights spring up here and there where habitations are, making long, bright streaks in the water. Being a little cool on deck, later many went below, but the party stayed up and enjoyed the effect of the Italian sky on the land graced with so much poetry of beauty. Passing the various hotels — for Como is at the very end of the lake — their porches were seen to be brilliantly illu- minated, and tables set out on the broad galleries for expected guests, or those already there, were indicators of comfort and good cheer. A swarm of people choked up the landing in such a manner it was difficult to make one's way to the hotel, fortunately not very far from the lake. Como is not a large place, but attractive by reason of its situation, and a serene place to rest preparatory for the long trip from there to Venice, after the varied trip through the lakes. For a day the party sat around or walked about the piazza in front of the hotel, looked into What Marjorie Saw Abroad 137 the stores as usual, and thought it had been a pleasant day when retiring for the night. The lovely surroundings and the balmy air help one to feel contented. Pliny the elder is supposed to have been born here in 23 A.D. His nephew is known to have been, and the family had sev- eral villas here. By the way, they were two representative men for that age. Volta (born A.D. 1745), the electrician, was a native of Como. He was a contemporary of Benjamin Franklin, but much younger. CHAPTER XI Leaving Como in tlie morning, onr travelers' thoughts were on Venice, but to break the long trip they stopped at Milan a few hours. Here they found the most attractive place to be the arched gallery of Victor Emanuel II, built in glass over about four blocks of two streets which cross each other. The entrance at the main street is designated by a handsome arch, flanked by a long, shady piazza of many smaller arches, the great arch facing the cathedral. Stores of all descriptions open on this piazza, with all sorts of bright articles to catch the eye. Inside, where the two streets intersect, is an immense glass dome over the court — the floor handsomely laid in mosaic patterns. Around the court people collect, sip coffee and wines, eat cream or ices, and chat and rest for the time from the fatigue of sight-seeing. Marjorie said it reminded her of a great hot- house without any plants in it. The stores range around the streets — forming the gallery and court — just as they do in the other parts of the city, and are also an entertainment. The cathedral is magnificent, of grayish stone, and is so finely carved it suggests fern leaves; 138 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 139 in this particular like the Cathedral at Cologne, but there are more spires, each bearing a statue, and it is of a different shape. The effect against the blue sky is very fascinating. The marble columns within are beautiful in the extreme. The fresco on the ceiling is so effective one has to look some time to learn that it is not wrought in stone. Standing in front of the altar and looking through the vista of columns toward the door, one is lost in admiration of the minds which could combine such strength and delicacy in this perfectly harmonious view. The impressions of sight-seeing, as in many things, depend largely on the feelings and tastes of the traveler. At times he does not feel quite well, but he has to look at the objects of interest whether or no; again he feels in fine condition and enjoys every- thing. No two travelers ever feel the same at the same time; what they inspect often strikes them differently, though there are some main points all are agreed on. It is often well for travelers to go in a little party — they assist each other in collecting many treasures in the mem- ory. Nearing Venice the train ran along for some distance over the water, somewhat like that in Galveston, Texas, stopping at the station about eleven P.M. The baggage had accumulated greatly by this time, so much so that even as far back as in one of the Swiss towns one of the trainmen snatched up a part and ran off with it 140 What Marjorie Saw Abroad to the baggage car. It was useless to protest, and it had, to be hunted up later and paid for. At Venice our tourists and their baggage were put in separate gondolas. The moon was full; the city had the silence of night; the gondolier balancing himself in the stern and skilfully using his oar. Sitting on luxurious seats and softly rocking, as they floated along the water, Marjorie and the Countess sang F. Campani's ^'Te'l Eammenti" for the Princess, who loved Italy and all pertaining to it. The two had studied Italian some, and had learned the song with a professor. Their voices harmonious, their intonation soft and low, with the lingering Italian accent they had caught so well, made the Princess feel that Venice was the dearest place in the world. Even the gondolier rested a mo- ment to listen. After passing under many bridges, sometimes through narrow canals, sometimes through wide, past doorways of lords, hotel-keepers, shop- keepers and peasants — each having marble steps more or less handsome, and posts around to designate the gondola landing — they reached the hotel. The posts of the nobility are gilded, and their coats-of-arms are on their houses in great display. After a half -hour the gondola stopped at some marble steps, was steadied by a native (who always expects a coin for his courtesy), and they entered the side door of the Hotel Metro- pole, where English is spoken. Next morning What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 141 they found the hotel fronted on the Adriatic, with a fine, wide pavement bordering the sea, and only a few bridges from the Doge's Palace, St. Mark's Church, and the Piazza San Marco. Venice might be called a marble city — not only marble, but most beautifully carved marble. It is built on islands or marshes drained by canals. Piles were driven in sometim.es to steady the buildings, and dirt was brought from the land and added when needed. It is a city of one hundred and fifty thousand or more. The Doge's Palace is a gem of beauty. The arcade in front and on St. Mark's side is superb. There are tvfo stories in the arcade, the second story having about twice as many pillars as the lower. No two of the capitals of those below are alike. The third story of the building is lofty and has great windows at regular inter- vals. The outside of this story is faced with small slabs of fine Istrian and red Verona mar- bles, mixed with other costly kinds. The build- ing itself is of brick — like many others — and veneered with these beautiful marbles. Formerly the houses and bridges in Venice were of wood, but, it becoming a great trading place, inroads of pirates demanded stronger buildings, and castles were needed to defend the place. Venice was founded in 810 A. D., though as early as the fifth century some of the islands in the Adriatic were known to be used as a tern- 142 What Marjorie Saw Abroad porary refuge from the barbarians who infested the country from time to time. The Bridge of Sighs side of the Doge's Palace looks on a canal and goes right up out of the water. There is a wide stone piazza in front of the arcade bordering the sea, and leading to St. Mark's Cathedral, as well as to a large piazza directly in front of St. Mark's, already men- tioned as Piazza San Marco, the sides enclosed by stores, most brilliantly lighted at night. Thousands of people promenade here, while a fine band in the center plays choice music. If one wishes seats, they can be obtained by order- ing refreshments. The Princess gave one of her little parties mentioned on the ship and or- dered ice-cream for four. The name ^ ' Veneze ' ' was molded on each block. She also treated to crystallized fruit, which the vendors carry around, and is delicious. In the daytime pigeons fiock here, and are en- couraged by the natives until they are quite tame. The old wells seen near St. Mark's and in the palace courts are covered over, and are not used any more, but the pigeons rest on them in great numbers. The washwoman told the Countess that artesian well water was used for washing the clothes, and the inference was that the same kind of water was used for drinking, too. The Doge's Palace is principally a show place now, but the doges used to have their center in it. They themselves lived royally. Downstairs What Marjorie Saw Abroad 143 in dungeons, or across the bridge under water, later, it is said, tliey put what they considered were the most dangerous prisoners. Marjorie saw the Bridge of Sighs was high, and she also noticed some of the cells on a line with it, and thought there could have been sev- eral stories of them. She had heard there were four stories on the palace side, and thought there was room for them, as the ceilings on the floor with the bridge were low. The party did not go to the bottom, as it was too gloomy. Hardly a ray of light could enter these dun- geons, but it is said some kind heart in pity gave the funds to provide lights sometimes. When the Bridge of Sighs was built the pris- oners were taken over, in the sixteenth century, to a new building, which one sees with iron- barred windows, just over the canal from the palace. The Giant Stairs leading from the inner court of the Doge's Palace to the upper floor and to the gallery of the inner court are very beautiful and are an example of early Renaissance style. In old times they were used by the doges, their friends, and suite. One of the guides remarked naively that he was glad no more doges came down those steps. The inner court itself is beautiful and enter- taining. St. Mark's towers and domes look down upon it, also a great clock. There are figures innmnerable on this side, and the elegant inner porch of the palace (similar to the outside ar- 144 What Marjorie Saw Abroad cade) around the other three sides. In the cen- ter are two old drinking wells which have been closed as already stated. The rooms have grand paintings by snch celebrities as Titian (1477-1576), Veronese (1528-1588), and Tintoretto (1519-1594). Among them ^'The Descent from the Cross" and ^^ Par- adise ' ' — the largest oil painting in the world — both by Tintoretto. These rooms are decorated in gilt carving and paneling in the latest Renaissance style. The throne-room is especially exquisite. They were told that the chamber where the Conncil of Ten met had a secret door leading to the Bridge of Sighs, through which prisoners were taken after trial, to see the light of day no more; though some Italians say part of the windows were closed in later days, giving the impression that there were never any at all. The Council of Ten was so graphically de- scribed by an Italian that all the ladies in the party had bad dream^s that night, in which the Council figured extensively. He laughed at the old scales of justice sitting on high in the room. Marjorie said one's idea of justice was so strained it was well for the world that it had the Saviour to settle it at the last judgment. The place where the masked Council of Three met gave them the creeps when the details were recounted by the same Italian. Lastly, they were shown into the dungeons below, already referred to. What Marjorie Saw Abroad 145 Marjorie had heard that there were trap- doors to every cell, so it seemed a difficult mat- ter for a prisoner to even know where his door was ; and she was so excited by the cruel stories she heard she was looking out for the trap- doors throughout the dungeons, and ran as fast as she could, with a peep here and there to sat- isfy her curiosity. She hurried through the southern side of the Bridge of Sighs (it has two passages, with a door in the middle), but took time to peep through the stone lattice at the world at large, and was glad that she was not going over to return no more. However, she feared some of the heavy doors around them might be trap- doors and disappear or might slam, through some occult means, in which the spirit of the doges might be connected, and she went back as rapidly as she could, standing where she might command the main doors until the others were through. She was happy to get out and explore the Golden Stairs. In fact, they all felt better for being out. They had traversed these stairs before, but Marjorie said she was thinking of something else at the time and had not explored them right well before, and would they mind going once more. They were what their name implies — much gilded. Sir Christopher, by Titian, is over the inside of a door opening onto some steps in the palace. One descending the stairs can see it very well. St. Mark's Church combines the oriental with 146 What Marjorie Saiu Abroad the occidental. The front is magnificent and the bright mosaic pictures on the face of it make it very pleasing. All gold and color it seems. It is just back of the Doge's Palace, so that a part of one side of it — nevertheless, the hand- somest side — forms the back wall of the inner court of the palace. On the corner next the pal- ace is a group of figures (in the act of embracing each other) called the Four Brothers, cut in re- lief. Some tell the story in this manner : That they came in a ship to Venice and were very rich. Two went on shore; the other two re- mained. In the absence of the others, each two planned to poison the other two and keep all the money for themselves, and got up a feast in which all were poisoned. Wliy their memory is perpetuated thus by the church is a conun- drum. Perhaps no heirs were found and the money went to the church. The Countess said that they were more likely carved there to show the futility of evil deeds. In many parts of Italy the bell tower — or Campanile, as it is called — of a cathedral is a separate building from the cathedral proper; sometimes next to it, then, again, across the street. Here it is in the Piazza San Marco — opposite the cathedral. It fell not long before our tourists happened along. They saw only a heap of ruins through the cracks of the enclo- sure, though the bell, unhurt, was shown them within the Porta della Carta — the beautiful gateway in front of the Giant Stairs, which What Marjorie Saw Abroad 147 unites the palace with the church. Within, the cathedral is brilliant with mosaics, marbles and gilding. Marjorie said at the first glance there seemed to be a million bouquets tossed up and caught in a golden net all over the ceilings and walls, until the details began to appear from famil- iarity, but it would take a much longer time than she had to spare to study each exquisite design. And so it is with travelers. Many continue these studies at home with books, though if one knows just what to study it is also well to do so before going. Each doge added sometliing to St. Mark's. AVliile the interior dazzles the mind by its magnificence, it is soft and mellow to the eye. Many eastern edifices were robbed of their treasures to enhance it. Euskin has described it most beautifully. CHAPTER XII. Sitting in a gondola, leaning back on the com- fortable cushions, moving quietly over the Adri- atic — associated with so much romance, so much that is oriental — it is very pleasant, indeed, night or day. The gondolier usually wears white, but if he thinks his passengers are dis- tinguished-looking, it is astonishing how he will try to tune himself up to their pitch. A blue sailor collar, a blue sash, fresh and dandy-look- ing, or red, yellow or mixed colors; but all in taste, whatever he has decided on. One felt complimented when Marjorie asked him to keep right still while she took his picture stand- ing in the act of using his oar. The Princess heard him, with an air of pride, tell another gondolier, when they were pushing along in a crowd of boats, that he had Ameri- cans in his gondola. Wherever the party went they were received with great favor, and one Italian told the Prin- cess that people thought them a very interesting party. One can walk all over Venice, for there are beautiful marble-paved piazzas and walks ; but sight-seeing is wearing on the nerves, and it is best to be taken to places where much walk- ing is to be done. 148 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 149 By using the same gondolier all the time — ^if you find one you like, which you generally do — he will become interested in you; he will tell you some or much of the folk-lore; he will see that the gondola is neat and trim, as well as himself; he will make it comfortable for you, and, having lived there, possibly, all his life, will know and will show you the best there is ; and when you leave the city you feel as if you had left a friend behind. In two gondolas they went some distance on the Adriatic one afternoon to the glass works, passing a cemetery, on an island, but so walled in one could see nothing of the interior. The glass works are most interesting, the Venetian glass being classed among the finest. After getting out of the gondola they went a few steps on the sidewalk, and were ushered into a room with a large furnace in the center, a fierce wood fire burning inside. Around the furnace are arches where the workmen put in their different-colored glass on the end of a long tube — only a little at a time — and it gets as pli- able as dough. The workmen have all sorts of implements to manipulate the soft glass and control its shape, pulling out here, twisting there, and nipping off somewhere else, which experience teaches them to do skilfully. In making the bowl of the glass they blow through the tube, getting it as thin as they like, quickly press the proper instru- ments on the outer side, while an assistant as 150 What Marjorie Saw Abroad quickly holds a hot one inside. Another man, or the same man, makes a flower or other orna- ment, and while all are warm puts them to- gether, and in a short time there is a beautiful Venetian glass. It all looked so simple Marjorie imagined she could do it. ^Vhen a little color is needed they dip the piece on the end of the tube in colored ground glass (made of chemicals), heat it, and all mixing forms any tint desired — green, blue, red, or all the colors of the rainbow. The heat of the furnace was not unpleasant to the onlookers, the long ride on the water hav- ing chilled them a little, nor did it seem so to the workers; but the constant glare from the furnace is a little hard on the men's eyes, they were told, and they work only a half-day. They were well-kept and a happy-looking lot, taking the pleasure of the artist, no doubt, in their beautiful works. Mats, hats, cravats, and all the other articles one sees made in glass were on display. Marjorie bought a cravat, and looked very well when she tried it on ; but some one suggested the danger of the fine glass get- ting in her eyes, and she gave up wearing it. It was kept then as a souvenir. Little children get employment here in this department, after school, at three francs a week. Marjorie chatted with a little girl, ten years old, who was plaiting a glass mat. The former knew a few commonplaces in Italian, which, united with gestures, helped to make conversation. What Marjorie Satv Abroad 151 In forming raised designs the workmen have long, slender sticks, about one-third the size of a pencil, of different-colored glass, with which they draw and paint (at once) an object, keep- ing a little hot flame at hand to get the proper heat. Marjorie saw a workman pnt her initials on a glass ball, after asking her what they were; then he politely handed the ball to her. The Countess bought here some dainty liqueur cups and saucers. In Marion Crawford's ^^ Marietta'' the life and history of the glass workers is prettily and skilfully introduced, and while reading it on the return ship Marjorie heard he was on board. She had seen his home on the cliffs near Naples, and wondered how he could live contented so far from his native land until she learned that he was born in Italy. She thought she would like to meet him, but, as he was not associating much with the passengers, she concluded he was writ- ing a book and thinking of what he would put in it; so she satisfied herself by staring at him when she thought he was not looking. An occasion presenting itself later, he stared at her in a similar manner, when he thought she was not looking; and then she knew she had been observed, and kept out of his range of vision the rest of the way. She said she had met famous painters, scuW^fors, and the like — North, East, South and West — but never an able writer, though 152 What Marjorie Saw Abroad having seen the pictures of many, and concluded he was about as nice-looking as any of these she had seen. And the Princess added, slyly : ' ' You ought to know ; you looked at him hard enough,' ' At a glass store the Countess fell in love with some beautiful crystalline plates fairly covered with gold leaves and flowers. His Majesty be- ing willing, she procured a dozen. Then Mar- jorie said to her father, ^^Wliat will you give me?'' ^^What would you like?" asked he. After looking carefully through the room, she replied : ^^I would like that card stand over there. It is the prettiest I ever saw. ' ' Though selling glassware principally, there was a room or two of furniture gotten up in true oriental style. The piece she selected was a Nubian or colored boy. His Majesty was asked by the storekeeper to pay down half and the other half when the goods were received in the United States, with a proviso that the money would be returned if the articles were broken. In due time they all arrived safely. The Princess was not along when this trans- action was made. The rest of the party were sitting down at the dinner-table when she came bounding in, and said to Marjorie : ^^And what have you been doing to-day?" ^'I bought me a nigger," she answered, seri- ously. What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 153 ^^Wliat do you mean?'' the Princess said, as- tonisliment in her face. ^^I meant what I said/' langhed Marjorie; '^and he is the prettiest I ever saw." After teasing- the Princess a little, whom you remember was of Northern birth, she related to her the adventures of the day. The canals in Venice are crossed by many bridges, and one has to go up and down stairs every time one is crossed, on foot, which makes walking very tiresome. There is very little ground which is not built upon or paved for walking on. Occasionally one sees a yard at- tached to a dwelling. They did not see a horse nor carriage. There are all kinds of stairs lead- ing up from the canal — as the city is not alto- gether level — as well as those over bridges, hav- ing very unique and varied styles of architec- ture. ^'Ah!" said Marjorie, softly, to the gondolier, as she glided over the water, ^^fermetevi" (keep still). He was just about to push oif again, after showing them the home of Desdemona; but she wanted a photograph of it, and, the sun being good, she leveled her camera and carried away another treasure sacred to the memory of Shakespeare. The Browning house on the Grand Canal, where the two poets lived some time, and where the husband died, is now left open to the public by the generosity of their son. The tablet of Elizabeth Barrett Browning is on the wall in- 154 What Marjorie Saw Abroad side. It is a large and handsome stone palace, springing out of the water, garden and all. The housekeeper showed the party around upstairs, the porter meeting visitors at the threshold and conducting them that far. One enters on the ground floor, after leaving the marble steps — ■ where the gondola awaits — a long, wide hall with store-rooms on either side; at the end is statuary, then a conservatory and garden. The broad marble stairs wind up from here and lead to an immense hall going from side to side of the building. The rooms lead from this toward the front. A cute little dog belonging to the housekeeper followed the party around, and Marjorie said she liked it as well as the other treasures. There are large paintings on wall and easel done by the son, also a bust of his father and mother, done by himself. The mother 's head is turned back, giving a pretty view of a pretty neck. The palace is nicely frescoed and has marble- ized floors, with few rugs, as is usual in Venice. It is an ideal home, but seems empty with only the housekeeper and the dog. Marjorie imag- ined how delightful it would be full of people, all ha^dng a cheerful time. The pantry is full of fine china, so there would be dishes enough for everybody, she thought. The marbleiz'ed floors, while they look elegant in halls and large apartments, are very cold in bedrooms without rugs, for Venice is not a warm place by any^ What Marjorie Saw Abroad 155 means, though it is associated in our thoughts with all that is southern. Mosquitoes are very thick here at night, and the mosquito nets have a break in the middle on each side and are utterly useless unless pinned together, which is a source of annoyance to a tired traveler. The churches in Venice are very handsome, and have paintings by Titian, as well as other great artists. St. Maria Gloriosa is very beautiful, and has the Madonna enthroned, very fine, by Giov. Bel- lini; also Titian's ^'Madonna and Babe'' (Bam- bino, they call Him here) glorified between two pillars; a doge's family below, and St. Peter, with others. In the church there is a fine monu- ment to Canova, who was entombed at Pos- sagno, and who made the Cupid and Psyche so much admired. Titian's tomb is here. St. George's Church rises nobly from the ex- panse of sea opposite the Doge's Palace and the Royal Palace, and has much of Tintoretto's work, including the ''Last Supper." Its choir is carved after the life of Benedictus, who wisely instituted labor for the monks instead of com- plete silence and meditation. Maria Salute, at the water's edge, is a beautiful white edifice, so chaste, so ornamental, it resembles a young queen in stately marble. It has the ''Descent of the tfoly Ghost." by Titian. TliG r)artv paddled to the lace factory back of St. Mark's. Walking up the wide gondola 156 What Marjorie Saw Abroad steps, a native, to whom his Majesty gave a coin, helping all out, they crossed the pavement, en- tered a door and ascended inner stairs to some nice rooms filled with happy-looking girls mak- ing lace. Each was seated in front of a large, oblong cushion imbedded in a stool the proper height, making the bobbins fly. Other rooms were luxurious with hand-made lace of all de- scriptions. It was a very interesting place, and the ladies did not dream of leaving until they had purchased a lot of lace. They said they were sorry that the men did not wear lace fronts and frills, so his Majesty could enjoy getting some, too. The Princess said that he would look ^^ quite stunning" so decked. In gondolas rowed by their expert gondoliers, clad in white with blue trimmings, they attended a grand regatta. All Venice was on the water. A warship was stationed in an appropriate place, with the judges on board, and other large steamboats were filled with people looking on. The race beg'an late in the afternoon, and was a test of gondola skill, one contestant in each gondola. The dexterity with which the oars- men guided their gondolas in that vast turnout was a marvel, indeed, and in no way did the throng interfere with the race. The rich, in elegant attire, sitting stately in gondolas with handsome trimmings, the ladies bearing exquisite parasols, unfolded till the race began; the poor with the best they had. All What Marjorie Saw Abroad 157 enjoyed the mixed assembly to a degree that was catching, even by those who could not un- derstand the language and the wherefore. The royal picture gallery in Venice contains mostly sacred pictures by the old masters. Among the pictures are Gio. Bellini's "Ma- donna and Bambino," also the '^ Death of Eacliel.'- Looking at the latter together, a doc- tor told his Majesty that the painter might have been a physician, a husband, and the father of a family — it was so true, so touching in every particular. This painting was done by Giam- bettino Cignaroli (1706-1772). Venice is a charming and interesting old place indeed, and every one wants to go there. The party met two ladies who had been planning ten years, they said, to meet in Venice. That they were realizing their expectations was evi- dent, they were looking so happy. Peter had naturally gotten ahead of Mr. Duke and Ealph, having started before them, and was flirting with the Princess, or she with him, by the time they arrived in Venice. When Kalph introduced his father his Maj- esty recognized a gentleman, and they immedi- ately became warm friends. ^ ' But where did you find them, boy 1 ' ' the old gentleman said, later. "That young one'' — meaning Marjorie — "is a stunner!'' This was just what Ralph wanted, and he was very pleased that his father should echo his sen- timents. Then he told of the meeting at Learn- 158 What Marjorie Saw Abroad ington, whicli he had left out in alluding to the rest of the party heretofore. ^^Ah! I see," was his only comment, and Ealph turned oif . By the time our tourists were ready to leave Venice Mr. Duke did not tliink he had seen enough of it ; so he persuaded Ealph, who want- ed to conciliate him for giving up the title, to remain at least a while longer. In the mean time, Peter thought he had made some progress with the Princess, but CHAPTER XIII It takes about seven hours to go from Venice to Florence. Our first party of tourists started in the morning, stopping at Bologna for lun- cheon. Arrived at Florence, they drove to the Grand Bretagne, on the Arno, in sight of the Ponti Vecchio. Soon after their arrival their trunks, which had been sent from Paris, were brought in, and they were as glad to see them, they said, as some one from home. Marjorie thought she had three doors to her room. One of them had evidently been a secret door, but now showed very plainly that it was no longer used as such. It looked as if it had been tampered with. Some of the plastering was off near the bolt, and a wire running from the bolt into the wall at the door frame showed through. The Princess thought this was to give the alarm in case it was opened. Marjorie wanted to ask the maid where the door led to ; but, as the maid spoke only Italian, and she never found it convenient to get the Princess to inquire when the maid was about, and it would look curious to ring a bell and call her up for the purpose, the matter was delayed for a fit- ting opportunity. 159 160 What Marjorie Saw Abroad The Princess and Marjorie were in the room together one day, and Marjorie dared her to open this door. They had already looked ont of the window and seen a long, narrow structure adjoining the room, with small windows in it at intervals, and concluded that it had been a se- cret stairway which the veritable door opened onto. They had heard that the hotel had once been a castle. The Princess did not take the dare. She excused herself by saying she might see something she did not want to see. Marjorie 's windows opened on a court, and opposite she could see some nice-looking Italian girls every day very busy arranging quantities of flowers, as if to sell, but there seemed no communication between their apartments and hers. In the court, halfway down, was a very pretty roof garden with palms. Way down on the floor of the court some plasterers were mix- ing mortar, and the constant bark of a dog at all hours between sunrise and midnight made the air lively. In the front of the hotel a clean street bor- dered by a low wall on the Arno gave a pretty view of the opposite side. There were tall houses in bufP, with blue or green shutters and terra-cotta tiling, making a variety of mellow colors — the houses rising right out of the water, as one sometimes sees in Venice, and the pecu- liar Ponti Vecchio that one can walk through without being aware that it is a bridge. It looks like a continuation of a street, and has jewelry What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 161 stores on either side, excluding all sight of water, or the River Arno, which it crosses. The servants at the hotel were very respect- ful and attentive, bowing when a guest passed, and the party were very much pleased all around; but whenever Marjorie awoke in the night she looked over to that wall-paper door, which had a writing desk before it, and let her imagination run riot. She said nothing about this anxious feeling to any one, rather made fun of the door. One night, it must have been getting on to- ward one o'clock, for most of the lights were out or lowered for the night. Marjorie had been long asleep, when she opened her eyes and, as usual, looked toward the wall-papered door. She thought she saw it slowly open and two men come in with gleaming daggers in their hands. The one in front had a dark lantern. He was an Italian, with large gold earrings in his ears, dressed in the native costume. The other was a Moor, and looked fierce and strong. There were two beds in the room — the Princess in one, which was not her usual custom. Mar- jorie 's hair almost stood on end, for she thought they were coming for both of them, but, instead, they felt their way slowly, cautiously, step by step, until they reached the door connecting her room with that of her parents. Wliile she saw them closing it softly and slip the bolt on her side, she tried to scream, but her tongue was glued to her mouth. Quietly the two left the 162 What Marjorie Saw Abroad door and came toward her and the Princess. One raised the net of her bed and motioned her to get up, while the other beckoned to the Prin- cess. After the girls had risen the men pointed to their shoes, making signs to them to put them on, and to be quick and quiet about it, with a flourish of their knives, which, Marjorie noticed, were flashing with jewels. Trembling and wondering, they were told to put on some clothes in the same sign-fashion. In the fright they did not get them half on, so the men snatched up enough to keep the girls warm and motioned them to go between them- selves until they reached the wall-papered door, now open and disclosing stairs. The Moor mo- tioned Marjorie to proceed with him, the other two following side by side when the Italian had quietly closed the door. Every time they stum- bled in the uncertain light there was a flourish of weapons and diabolical frowns, which struck them with terror and made them more awkward than ever. On reaching the foot of the stairs they found a door half-open. Entering this, two ways seemed to meet. Taking one way, the men now left them a little together and talked in a whis- per to each other. With only the rays from the lantern, it was difficult to tell much about their way, but it seemed to be a tunnel. Marjorie told the Princess between her teeth that they must be under the Arno, she had heard such a roaring above, and the way seemed to be in that What Marjorie Saw Abroad 163 direction. The Princess whispered to her to walk or keep a little nearer the men, and she would, too, and in that way try to learn what they were talking about, for they were still in converse. The noise above ceased finally, and Marjorie concluded that they had gotten from what she surmised was under the bed of the Arno, when the Princess disturbed her moody thoughts still more by telling her she understood the men to say they were going to take them to some se- cluded place and hold them for ransom ; that the door at the foot of the stairs had been locked and bolted, but the Moor explained that this did not interfere, as he had learned the secrets of the way from an old man — who in turn had gotten them from his father — and had thus en- tered. He said he had heard a king and his daughter, a princess and a countess, occupied the suite of rooms bearing on the secret door; in fact, he had heard what he took to be the two princesses joking about the door, on a street corner, where he happened to be standing, which set him to thinking, and intimated that there was much treasure in store. In order to tell Marjorie this the Princess had to give her a shove and push her ahead somewhat — the two men being in such deep conversation they did not notice, or did not understand English, and neither of them dreamed that the Princess knew Italian, and were not novv^ so particular about lowering their voices. The Moor spoke some- 164 What Marjorie Saw Abroad times in what the Princess thought to be Greek, and this she did not understand. She thought they had paid dear for their sham titles. The girls pictured to themselves the anguish of their relations, and settled it between them that they would try to escape. The Princess heard the Moor tell the Italian that there was a break in the tunnel (for such it was) at the only town they had to pass through, and they had only to go across a street, and would have to stand in the shadow of the tunnel until no one was pass- ing, then each would have to take a girl by the arm and hasten her over quickly to the opening in the other side, both of which openings were concealed in some skilful way from passers. As they neared this place, and the men were just ready to dart across the street with their victims, a troop of horsemen suddenly came around a bend in the street, and the quick-witted Princess screamed, ^'Help! help!'' in Italian. Then Marjorie, thus emboldened, shouted the same in English, making such a noise the riders drew up suddenly and the horses fell back on their haunches. The Italian and the Moor tried to drag the girls on, the Moor beating Marjorie on the head when she resisted. She could not tell where the Princess was, for the horsemen had by now taken in the situation and were mak- ing for the two ruffians. All this she saw as the blow from the Moor felled her. When she opened her eyes — some time after, she thought — there was a brilliant light around What Marjorie Saw 'Abroad 165 her; her parents were there, asking her what was the matter, and all she conld do was to stare at them in wonder, until her mother gave her a gentle shake and again asked her what was the matter. ^^ Where is the Princess T' she murmured. *^The Princess is in her own bed. Why do you askr' ^'Because I thought she was over there," pointing to the other bed in the room; ^'but I think I have been dreaming. ' ' ^^You screamed loud enough to awaken the whole house," said his Majesty, ^^and I thought some one was killing you." Marjorie said she was sorry, but she could not help it, and after a little comforting from her mother she turned over and went to sleep again. The Princess enjoyed this immensely when Marjorie told her about it next day. She said it was so romantic and mysterious. And Mar- jorie wondered if the Princess was not sorry that it did not really happen, for she said she believed she would sleep in that extra bed the next night. Marjorie was so glad of a com- panion, after such a dismal dream, she con- sented with alacrity. Her parents had offered to change rooms with her, but she said it was too much trouble and would be too silly. The Princess continued to occupy the bed to the end of the stay, her room being directly across a narrow hall and the last one on it. Several days 166 What Marjorie Saw Abroad after, wlien arranging her wash, Marjorie was somewhat astonished, on rooting behind trunks and furniture for clothes, to observe a fourth door back of a wardrobe. She was so well sea- soned with doors by this time she did not worry over it, but said she felt like Saul did when David shook a piece of his garments (that he had cut off) in his face^ — from the height — to show what he could have done if he would. She might be in their power, but they had spared her. Yet she would not have been in the least surprised if the wardrobe had been on springs and suddenly burst open, revealing the un- known. In the mean time, however, they were seeing the best of Florence. The hotel being near the most interesting places, they became quite famil- iar with them. The Piazza della Signoria was just a block or so back, and Tournabuoni street on one side (running into a bridge across the Arno), where are Cook's office and the restau- rant of Doney e Nipoti, the one for mental com- fort, the other for physical. On the other side, Via Por S. Maria leading into the Piazza della Signoria from the Ponti Vecchio. The Piazza della Signoria is a great study in itself, added to immeasurably by its surround- ings. Here Savonarola — saint, reformer and martyr — ^was burned and his ashes thrown into the Arno. Marjorie asked, * * What for 1 ' ' The guide re- plied, ^'Because he was too honest!'' What Marjorie Saw Abroad 167 Here, on the anniversary, the citizens collect in hundreds, even thousands, and pile up floral wreaths in his honor, united with other cere- monies. The spot is indicated by a mosaic pat- tern in the pavement. The Princess once wit- nessed a celebration of what they consider his martyrdom. The fountain of Neptune by the side of the Palazza Vecchio is alone worth the journey here to see, but the im.portance of the palace is para- mount. It has a stone porch in front, and was begun in 1299 and the building gradually brought up to its present beauty and propor- tions. Through a magnificent arcaded court (where one is apt to linger a little) one goes up a flight of grand stairs to the rooms open to the public. Among the wonders here are frescoes on walls and ceilings — by Vasari — depicting the history of Florence. There is also a statue of Louis X, by Eossi. In the bell tower Savona- rola was imprisoned with his two companions. Near by, on the north side of the palace, is II Bargello, now the National Museum. The great hall which one enters first is an armory, having belonged to the Medicis mostly. The Princess said she had heard that people used to be tortured here, because the walls were so thick their screams could not be heard by out- siders. In other rooms above are frescoes by Giotto — some of which are Dante in a red dress, a man kneeling, and the Cardinal by a window, and said to be the finest portrait delineations 168 What Marjorie Saw Abroad of the Eenaissance. The well-known winged Mercury by G. Bologna, and more of his work, is here. The bust of Cosimo I (de Medicis), by Ben- venuto Cellini, is interesting because this family is so conspicuous in Italian history. The Rob- bia-ware in one of these rooms is some of the best in Italy. Lucca della Robbia did not invent this ware, but improved it, and it was so named after him. Ilis nephew, Andrea, and ^ve of the latter 's sons extended the business. Florentine and Gobelin tapestry, mediaeval sculptures, and reliefs (by Michelangiolo),* as well as his cele- brated Mask of a Satyr (executed at the age of fifteen), are among the valuable collection. Works of art in marble, bronze, pottery, ivory and glass are stored in the building. Marjorie felt very grand sitting in a sedan chair once used by a de Medici. Opposite the National Museum, in the same Piazza (della Signoria), is the Loggia, a beau- tiful shelter where the Priori, or rulers, met, which meetings were called together by the bell up in the Palazza Vecchio tower. One can only know how beautiful the Loggia is by seeing it. Long, wide steps make the ascent through stat- uary behind a Gothic arcade capped by Corin- thian capitals. Alongside of the Loggia is an arcade. On its left, under this arcade, and on a line with the Palazza Vecchio, is the Uffizi building. In this is contained a world of won- *JtaUan pronunciation, What Marjorie Saw Abroad 169 ders — the Tribuna (an eight-sided hall replete with masterpieces), the different schools of painting, and portraits all painted by the artist himself, such as Titian, Leonardi da Vinci, Ea- phael, and so on. In the Tribuna is the Venus de Medicis — four feet eleven inches high — sup- posed to be the work of Cleomenes, son of Apol- lodurus, discovered in Hadrian's villa at Tivoli; the statue of Apollino, by Praxitiles; the Dancing Faun, also supposed to be done by Praxitiles; the Group of the Wrestlers; the Knife Grinder — ^ve of the most antique statues in the world. The various schools are in different rooms. Titian heads the Venetian school, and his ^' Flora,'' a sweet-looking girl, is among his paintings. In one of the rooms, on an easel, is a quaint painting, ^ ' Incoronizione della Vergine, ' ' by Beato Angelico, born in 1387. Another, called *'La Vergine col Bambino," by Bottocelli (1447- 1510), is on the wall behind. The little Christ has cherries in his hand. Among the gems in one of the glass cases at the Uffizi — a head and bust cut from a ruby, about the size of a dollar, and drapery held in front by a solitary diamond — caught Marjorie 's artistic eye. She was sur- prised, too, at the sweet mien Guido Remi gave his Cleopatra. The Uffizi building is joined to the upper story of the Ponti Vecchio by a gallery running along the Arno over an arcade till it meets the Ponti Vecchio, which in its turn connects with the 170 What Marjorie Saw Abroad Pitti Palace. The last is a most magnificent place. Tke King of Italy, Victor Emmanuel III, was in Eome at the time the party appeared, and the Pitti Palace and the Boboli gardens, adjoin- ing, were opened to the pnblic at certain hours. Within, green and gold, red and gold, blue and gold, white and gold, dainty Dresden-looking stuffs and gold, prevail throughout. And there are rooms of treasure, with old, old articles in gold, precious stones, silver, marble and china; a priest's mitre among them, made in change- able designs by having different-colored flies' wings worked in — a very singular relic. Many of the latter belonged to the Medicis, especially to Cosmo and Lorenzo — ^powerful heads of a powerful house of rulers. A large portrait of Catherine de Medici, mother of Charles IX of France, and a potential member of the Medici family, was in great evi- dence upstairs, where the royal rooms are. In Florence, whichever way one turns one sees the de Medicis' arms, a shield bearing six balls. The facetious call them pills, because they say no one was allowed to stand in their way — no one who was rash enough to oppose them. They and their families, from the earliest times, also those of the King, Victor Emmanuel, are to be seen in the picture gallery over the Arno. The age of the Pitti Palace may be gathered from the fact that it was purchased by the Medi- cis in 1549 and only recently finished. The build- ing is three stories, and the inner court has What Marjorie Saw Abroad 171 Doric, Ionic and Corinthian colmims. At one end of tiie court, facing the entrance, is a grotto paved with mosaics, ornamented with statues in porphyry and satyrs in bronze. From the Pitti Palace end of the Ponti Vec- chio the gardens lead, and are on two sides of a hill. Near the entrance to them is an artificial grotto with statues in the rough by Michelan- giolo. Away from here, in one part of the garden, a flight of steps takes one up to a little tower on the highest part of the hill, from which, in the little balcony, Florence can be viewed with com- fort and pleasure. The Princess and Marjorie took pictures up here and all around. Descending the hill on the other side, the party came to a basin, surrounded by a grand hedge of cork oaks, in the center of which is a great statue representing the ocean, in the midst of three other statues representing the Ganges, the Nile, and the Euphrates, by Bologna. Steps lower down on the same side lead to an amphi- theater — at the back of the palace^ — with six tiers of stone seats ornamented with sculptur- ing, making a large, open, paved place, with the palace in sight, itself in a thicket of myrtles, laurels, spindles, evergreens, cork oaks and fine cypress. The members of the party had to keep their eyes and ears wide open to absorb intelli- gently the treasures of old Italy, for in many of the buildings each room is a day's study, and outside as well. 172 TVhat Marjorie Saw Abroad Some of the markets in Florence are elegant and entirely of stone^ — great open places with high massive pillars and arches, lavish with statuary. One has a boar in front of it, said to be one of the finest pieces of sculpture in the city. It was very picturesque, thought Marjorie, to see it filled with the gaily dressed Italians and their variegated wares. In Florence the Prin- cess had an artist friend who spent many of the evenings with the party, and they with her. Her studio has a beautiful location, facing the gar- den of the Fort. A large basin of water with fountain and plants grace the landscape, which, with trees and walks on a rise of ground, is a fit- ting view for one who pursues the graceful art. Her reception-rooms are lovely, and decorated mostly by her own statues and paintings. Her men do the rough work after she has conceived the design. She lives with her maids, contented and happy in her work, though she is not a recluse and has as many friends as her work will admit of. The party met in Florence the son of the great artist, Hiram Powers, a native American. He has a delightful home and studio here. Marjorie has his visiting card, and keeps it among her treasures. The Duomo, as it ascends from the open place where it sits in company with the campanile and baptistry, is a delight to the senses. It was not finished until 1886, though begun many hundred years since. It is coated with polished light What Marjorie Saw Abroad 173 marble and dark magnesian serpentine — all an indescribable blue mist of china, it seemed, dashed with mosaics in red and other harmoniz- ing colors. In the bnilding at the right of the entrance is the tomb of Giotto, and his bust. Four superb arches on each side of the nave reach to the choir, the great dome resting on piers ornamented with statues of apostles, the ceiling grandly carved. The bronze gates of the sacristy have reliefs over them in terra -co tta in the best work of Lucca della Eobbia (1399- 1482). The view from the dome is unrivaled. Outside — not far from the Duomo — is a stone in a wall on which Dante sat and watched the work on the building till he was obliged to leave the city, in 1301 A.D., for political reasons. The campanile towers lofty and grand, its windows and statues increasing in size as they ascend, to make them seem alike. It was designed and begun by Giotto (1276-1337), the first artist to strike out the best ideal in which to represent the Saviour on the cross. The baptistry, as usual, is a gem of art and beauty. The bronze door in it, fronting the cathedral, was said by Michelangiolo to be wor- thy to close the entrance to Paradise. It was begun by Lorenzo Ghiberti in 1425 and finished by his pupils some years later. It is in ten divi- sions, representing scenes from the Old Testa- ment. The fruit, flowers and birds used for the ornamentation are exquisite, as well as the scenes. 174 What Marjorie Saw Abroad The Cluircli of San Croce lias a very hand- some approach, being in front of a large, some- what open sqnare, and viewed to advantage from it. Marjorie said it looked to her like cream stucco — there is a kind of stone in Italy which resists the atmosphere better when cov- ered with a cement. As they alighted from the cab to ascend the steps running all around the wide, open, roofless portico, extending the width of the church, she was accosted by two Italian women, their corsets outside, black aprons over red skirts and the lower part of the corset; parti-colored neckerchiefs over a white waist. Their corsets did not meet by far in the back and were closely laced with silk strings. One was bareheaded; the other had an old black silk fascinator on her head. In Italy there is more freedom of action than the other countries they went through, and the party now usually went in one cab, Marjorie or the Princess sitting by the coachman, to find out all he knew, when they got far out where they were not known. The women just mentioned held out some silk lace shawls which are seen all over Florence, and, being a little chilled, Marjorie bought one to throw about her shoulders. Encouraged by this, they insisted on her buying a dog they had — about the size of her fist. It was a cute little beast. She explained that it would be a nice gift for their artist friend as a keepsake, but the Princess, knowing her better, feared it would not be welcome, so hurried her in, after petting What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 175 it some. Perhaps Marjorie thought she might have a chance to see the dog again if she gave it to the artist. It was out of the question to keep it herself. All the churches are much of the same general pattern, so that when the main features of one are described it looks as though it might do for all; but in no two cases are they alike. Some have a row of single columns, some a few grouped columns, then again they are arched differently, and decorated in such a variety of handsome designs. Entering San Croce, Gali- leo's tomb (1564-1642) on the left and Dante's cenotaph — he was buried at Eavena — and Michelangiolo 's tomb on the right are very im- pressive. There are arched pillars on each side of the nave ; slabs on the floor with inscriptions to the departed; handsome statues, either me- morials or the real tombs, along the walls ; and any number of chapels with frescoes by Giotti. Some of the chapels and the church are so ar- ranged one can take in many of their beauties without going through doors, and with one sweep of the eye. Marjorie said it seemed more like a burying-ground than a church, but she thought it enchanting — so much fine marble — and stepped about in every direction to keep from walking on the graves in the floor, which, she said, she thought was disrespectful to the ashes lying there. His Majesty replied that they ought not to have put them in such an attractive place if they did not wish them walked over. 176 What Marjorie Saw Abroad San Croce is called the Westminster Abbey of Florence. It was begnn in 1294 and was not finished nntil 1863. Andrea del Sarto and Eob- bia have some of their work in the chapels. Giotto 's finest work is seen in the Capella Bardi, which is connected with this church. The Church of the Annunziata is open all day. It was built in 1250. Here Andrea del Sarto painted his beautiful wife as the Virgin, and the chapels attached to it are very interesting. The church seemed like a mass of gold and silver. Service was going on part of the time, and the illumina- tion was dazzling. St. Mark was erected in 1290. At the adjoin- ing monastery they saw the cell Savonarola stayed in, his chair and desk, his Bibles and re- ligious books. He is much revered in Italy. Some Dominican monks still live at this monas- tery. The cells have one little window, and are adorned with mural paintings by Fra Angelica. Dante's alleged house is to be seen not far from the Piazza della Signoria, but present as- sertions give rise to doubt. There are a few relics exhibited. Eaphael 's home is also a show place. Michelangiolo's house consists of seven rooms, and contains a bust of himself, a statue, the fam- ily history and other valuable remembrances, frescoes of his funeral, and so on. He is known to have had great energy, though he is said to have eaten very little, and awoke in the night to go to work. Marjorie said she presumed the What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 111 last was true, for it seemed to lier as if all ar- tists had been overshadowed by him as to amount of work done. ^^Ile lived to be nearly ninety,'' said her mother ; ^ ' he had a longer time. ' ' ' ' Some say he wore a candle on his cap when he was painting at night," chimed in his Maj- esty. The Princess added that she had read some- where that he was so eager to reveal his con- ception he went at his marble as if he were as- sailing an enemy. From the Piazza Michelangiolo, at the end of a nice up-hill drive from Florence, the party had a line view of the city and its en\drons. Here Michelangiolo 's great statue of David stands alone on the height in the center of the open. The terraced background of trees and walls with pavilion show it to be a resort. A little way beyond is St. Miniato, built in 1013, in Byzantine style. There is a burying- ground outside and a fine view is had from the large church porch. The front is plain and faced with black and white marble. The tower was protected from the enemy's bullets with mattresses by Michelangiolo during a siege, though he had a cannon up there to return their attentions. Around here are old fortifications which still remain, built by Michelangiolo to defend Flor- ence — thus holding off the armies of Charles V and Pope Clement VII some months. So this 178 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad great man was a warrior as well as an artist and, as we shall see later, an arcliitect. From St. Miniato is a road to Galileo 's honse, where he died, and not far off a house where he made some astronomical observations. Among his relics is a letter written by him. Italy abounds in handsome stairways, even on the mountain or hillside. Every part of them is adorned, which makes the surroundings elegant. The old masters' works are at every turn of them at times. Going down from St. Miniato, on the city outskirts, the party saw such a net- work of ornamental steps with railings — lead- ing everywhere, it seemed — the Countess in- quired of the coachman what it led to. He said it was a footpath to Piazza Michelangiolo. It is most artistic; the fagade — if one may call it such — innumerable railings interlacing each other, this way and that way, until the top is attained. The effect is very romantic and mys- terious. Not far off an old Eoman tower ap- pears — open on one side — disclosing a flight of steps in each story and winding to the top, where in times of war the approach of the en- emy was watched. The ducal palaces of Florence are very much alike — a large building of bluish sandstone, more or less fine, with four angles and a court, the first floor having small gratings high up from the ground, and heavy iron rings at regu- lar intervals for banners on the outside, and cavities for holding torches. At the corners What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 179 very elaborate lamps of wrought-iron are swung. At the principal entrance there used to be in many — now left in some — a small depres- sion with an opening in the wall throngh which provisions and wine could be thrust. "There were so many factions in old times, so little true religion, perhaps, it was dangerous and incon- venient to open a large place of admittance at all hours," his Majesty observed. The entrance itself is usually very massive and imposing, leading within to a court embel- lished with pillars, fountains, and statuary, ac- cording to the wealth of the owner. Elaborate flights of steps ascend to the leading rooms, which are frescoed and adorned in regal style. The ceilings are lofty, and paneled with carved, gilded and painted beams. Driving through Florence, the home of Ro- mola, George Eliot's heroine, was pointed out to the party. Marjorie had never read the book, but made a note of it for future perusal. The drive to the Ca seine Gardens is delight- ful. It runs partly along the Arno, which at this point was dry in many places. At the Chapel of the Medicis the party saw more of the fine statuary of Michelangiolo — "Night and Day" — on the sarcophagus of Guiliano de Medicis (his figure above), represented by two nude figures; the woman. Night, asleep; the man. Day, just opening his eyes. Opposite is the tomb of Lo- renzo II— he sitting there apparently thinking of brewing mischief. "Dawn and Twilight" 180 What Marjorie Saw Abroad are beneath liim, and represented by a shapely nude woman witli a waking expression, and a nude man just about to go to rest. Another apartment in this Chapel shows the tombs or monuments of prominent members of the__Medicis family gotten up in grand style. The Church of Or San Michele was once a grain market. Around it were niches holding statues of saints, each trade using it obligated by law to provide a statue of its patron saint. The statues are fine examples of the Florentine school. The St. George by Donatello^ — the cele- brated predecessor of Michelangiolo — also his St. Mark, ought to be especially noticed. The latter figure impressed Michelangiolo so favor- ably he said, when looking at it, ^'So noble a figure could indeed write a gospel. '^ At Fiesole, a pleasant drive in a carriage from Florence, on the heights in the Appenines, are remains of the old Roman baths, which one can still see were heated by building fires under a low stone reservoir held up by little brick pil- lars. An old Eoman theater there is very inter- esting — seats made of stone, and circular, like those in a circus. The Princess and Marjorie gathered pretty blue snail shells, and climbed through the sur- rounding plive patches, and begged a boy, over a fence, who was passing through the vineyard, to give them some grapes right off the vines. When he saw the money he gave them the grapes. None of the party knew whether they What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 181 were his grapes or not, but the Princess and Marjorie were so thirsty they did not care. A museum here is replete with mosaic stat- uary, stone cohimns, and articles of various de- scriptions taken from the ruins, or crumbling from them at different times. Among these relics were tear bottles, into which the aristo- cratic Romans shed their tears, to throw them into the graves or urns of friends. Marjorie said their necks were so narrow she wondered how they got their tears in. There was the stone wolf of peculiar shape which is always pictured with Romulus and Remus, but t]ie twins were non est. Going down, Marjorie picked an olive branch, with olives on it, for a memento. There were fields of olive trees on the way. ' ^ They will dry up, ' ' said his Majesty. ^ ^ What is the use of it ! " ^^What is the use of anything T' she returned, and he smiled. The olives remained on long enough to show to her friends, and the leaves are still intact. Going up and down they had a nice view of the valley of the Arno. The sky was only what an Italian sky can be — of glorious colors. CHAPTER XIV Owing to the prevalence of cholera in Egypt, through which they would have had to pass, the party did not go to the Holy Land. But they found Holy Land at Pisa, a short distance from the Leaning Tower. Fifty-three shiploads of dirt were brought to this spot about the twelfth century from Mount Calvary, and deposited to make a graveyard, which is surrounded by an arcade with mural decorations, enclosing a long, narrow, roofless court. One of the frescoes here represents Dante's Inferno, or his idea of hell, and has a warning to the wicked in every detail. There is a great devil with horns and tail, and little devils com- ing out of a hole in his stomach; that is (figura- tively) all the souls he has consumed. The an- gels and other devils are fighting over souls just coming from earth. This sacred place is called Campo Santo. Many old Roman sarcophagi brought in from time to tune were ranged around the walls and arcade. The floor within the arcade holds the dead buried here. The inner court is a grass plot, containing a few flowers and shrubbery. The keeper gave the ladies some flowers he had gathered from it, and 183 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 183 later tliey were pressed and put away as treas- ures. The Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, the Bap- tistry and Campo Santo all belong together, and are a magnificent group. The Leaning Tower (cream white), ascending in a majestic manner toward the sky, glistening in the sunlight; the Cathedral mostly white, in lines of bluish tint, and ornamented in finely conceived marble de- signs; the domed Baptistry in the same pat- tern; the Campo Santo in the background, and an old Eoman wall with massive gate beyond — • all flooded with an Italian sun — flashed upon them suddenly from a turn in the street, and their hearts went out to it as an ensemble of surpassing beauty. The Leaning Tower is round — southern Romanesque in style — and is the campanile for the Cathedral, soaring up across the way, or street, from it. Inside is a winding stair, and at the top are bells around at intervals, and one rang while the party were looking. It is about a hundred and eighty-three feet high, and inclines a little over thirteen feet to the south. It is built of marble throughout and is eight stories high, the walls being thir- teen feet thick at the base and half as thick higher up. It is chaste, symmetrical, and ele- gant. The stories are designated on the outside by columns. It was begun in 1174. Marjorie was infatuated with it. She viewed it from every point, and walked around it several times to examine it thoroughly. It looks so fresh and 184 What Marjorie Saw Abroad pnre one can easily imagine that it was made but yesterday. Galileo used it as a height to test his experiments in gravitation. The Cathedral inside revels in scroll after scroll of life-size designs in paintings on the walls and mosaics in medallions on the ceiling. The handsome side pillars are spoils of ancient Greek and Eoman buildings. A chandelier which Galileo had observed swaying at different times gave him the idea of a pendulum of a clock. At the Baptistry the carving on the altar representing lace is so finely wrought it still seems, on close inspection, to be the real article. The echo here resounds wonderfully. The guide intoned in the Roman Catholic style, and the reverberation sounded like a choir of Cherubim and Seraphim from the great dome above, supported by many columns. The font is beautifully carved in marble and large enough to get in, if you wish. The pulpit is also richly carved, and led up to by exquisite little steps. The party also visited the alabaster works of Pisa, where men with aprons and caps were chiseling groups and separate pieces out of the soft stone. Even a little eight-year-old boy seemed to be learning the trade. His mother had not long since died. His thoughts were with her in the other world, they said, and he was carving a Christ with his tiny hands, while his father worked at a larger one. His Majesty was struck with the efforts of the little fellow and complimented him on his work. What Marjorie Saw Abroad 185 The house where Galileo was born looks old and shabby, but when we remember what it once contained we revere it. Pisa is so old it is said by some to be contemporary with Troy (1400 B.C., according to tradition). Going and returning to Florence from Pisa in one day, they next visited the Bel Arti — a great treat in the way of tapestries, statues and paintings. In the tapestries the Creator is de- picted in a red robe, walking with Adam; then there is a great piece where the animals file be- fore Adam — the large ones first in line, the smaller ones in a second, and a long sweep of birds above. The tree, the deceiver, and Adam are on yet another piece. Eve appearing in the right places, the angel with the flaming sword driving them out in the last. All is told in about a half-dozen immense pieces, fastened on the wall opposite one another. Among the paintings is Fra Geo Angelico's *^Last Judgment" — the good on one side, the bad on the other, where devils of all sorts are worrying the latter. The good are reiDresented as going up to a city at the top of a wooded hill, with their guardian angels saluting them and leading them up by the hand — a very pretty idea. The angels have golden halos around their heads, and golden wings, and the good have golden filaments radiating from the crowns of their heads. In some of the pictures of the old masters angels have red, green and pink feathered 186 What Marjorie Saw Abroad wings, and in some they are mixed colors, or gold. Marjorie said she had not thought of their wings as other than white. The Princess re- plied, ^ ' There is no telling. ' ^ A cousin of the Czar of Russia was going the rounds with a pleasant-looking family. They were no different from other nice people in ap- pearance, and without attendants, but a well- bred air was noticeable. Wherever the party went, these Russian people happened along, and vice versa, until it got to be laughable. The last time his Majesty saw the young lady make signs to her mother that there were the same people again, and Marjorie punched her mother and told her to look behind her when she could. They had all seen so much of each other they looked as if they wanted to speak, but they did not. An American consul was at the same hotel. Getting acquainted with him, the Countess found he had visited among her mother's friends in the South. Of cou.rse, there was much to say. He was a Northern man, but he told the Coun- tess he would ever remember his visit; that, among other courtesies, when he was shown to his bedroom he saw roses laid all over the bed. He asked what they were for. The answer was, They are to welcome you.'' a Mr. Duke, whom the party left in Venice with his traveling companions, now arriving in Flor- ence, talked much about Beaumont, being a little proud of his coup d'etat in that region^ What Marjorie Saw Abroad 187 though never of his means; and, thinking the tale of his title remarkable, told that, too. The foreigners, quick to appreciate such a sit- uation, spread it around that he was Lord Some- body, and just as he and Ralph were getting acquainted with other nobles and introducing them to their friends our tourists had to leave for Rome. This did not deter Prince Leonori, one of the number, who was smitten with the Princess, from following. He used the most poetic language in addressing her. He had a fine tenor voice, was distinguished-looking, and Florence was the place of all others to consum- mate the affair, had it not been for Peter — he could not be dropped so suddenly. Mr. Duke bought a turquoise necklace, a tur- quoise comb, a pin and buckle of the same kind; as much in coral; also a diamond necklace. Ralph and Peter wondered whom they were for. Ralph had no sisters nor aunts, neither had his father. ^'I']l just keep them to look at, my boy; they may come handy some day," he said, as he no- ticed their inquiring gaze, and addressing Ralph. In about eight hours' run from Florence is the great city of Rome — ^beautiful, magnificent, classic Rome ; city of the past, city of the pres- ent, so intermingled, Marjorie said, it seemed like a dream to be there. They reached it not long before midnight. The handsome fountain 188 What Marjorie Saw Abroad near the station was still playing as they walked past, and soon they fonnd themselves at the large and queenly looking Hotel Quirinal. Mar- jorie said she hated to go to bed and lose time sleeping while in Rome. The Countess reminded her that the sooner she retired the earlier she would rise and explore. Next morning, when they were assembled at breakfast, his Majesty said he was going to hunt up somebody to tell him about the city. ^'Whom will you findT' laughed the Countess — she knew they did not know anybody in Eome. ^'I know of a sculptor here who used to go to the same college I did, and if he is anything like the rest of the boys I met there he'll help me through with these Italians." They all concluded they would like to go, if that were the case, and got ready with alacrity. As it turned out, the sculptor was Ezekiel, who had his studio under one of the domes of the Bath of Diocletian — a Roman emperor who lived over sixteen hundred years ago. It was propped and boosted in an artistic manner. Near the entrance, inside, there was a model of the Thomas Jefferson monument, done by this sculptor, just completed and sent to Louisville, Kentucky, as a present to that city from one of its citizens. The ladies were introduced, his Majesty having, previous to their entrance, sent in his card. In the conversation about the monu- ment referred to the sculptor was pleased to What Marjorie Saw Abroad 189 learn that the Countess was related to Thomas Jefferson. Ezekiel wore a brown velvet cap with tips like the wings of Mercury, which was very becoming to his pleasant cast of features, and an apron so artistically arranged the Princess (who was somewhat of an artist herself) said she hated to see him take it off, or the cap, either; both of which he did, after giving the drapery of the Tiberius Caesar — he was making for a friend in New York — a final touch or two, before wash- ing his hands and putting on his coat. "^ After sitting a while in this vast room, with models and all kinds of artistic implements around, he went with them to explore some of the other parts of the building — the Museo Na- tionale — where there are antiques (exhumed in Rome from public property) and other interest- ing relics which he had suggested showing them during the conversation. There is a Eoman church in the old building, too. It was a treat to have one so capable to enlighten them on their surroundings. There is a large pottery establishment here, also, and what were once Carthusian Cloisters, done by Michelangiolo. Despite the antiques around the porch and in the garden, the court of the old cloisters is very sunny and cheerful. The cypress trees here are said to have been planted by Michelangiolo. On leaving, after they had explored for sev- eral hours, Ezekiel appointed a time when he hoped they would meet liim at his house for 190 What Marjorie Saw Abroad Inncheon. His Majesty and Marjorie accepted. His home is also in Diocletian's Bath, and is most pecnliarly and ingeniously constructed. One ascends a shady, walled slope, with flower border on each side of the path, interspersed with handsome antiques. At the top of the in- cline is a copy of Michelangiolo 's head of David he picked up in Rome. The portico is paved with mosaic belonging to the house of Lucretia Borgia's son, and amid the vines — a little, an- cient fountain playing and pigeons cooing — ^was stretched overhead what Marjorie told the Prin- cess resembled a handsome silk quilt, an awning to moderate the light and heat. The luncheon was served in a dainty manner by an Italian man, and consisted of macaroni soup, fried crawfish and other fish, delicious meat and vege- tables, various wines, and a dessert that Jove might have enjoyed. After luncheon he gave them some of the op- eras by means of a pianola, having shown them around his house when they first arrived. It was as spacious as the studio. The recumbent Christ, done by himself, and an intaglio in ala- baster of a life-size head, was very effective with a light thrown on it — his own conceptions, he said. ^/hien leaving he gave them an introduction to Lady Gwendolyn, whose father is an English earl, and who was traveling a while before mak- ing her debut. When the two girls met one thought they were not unlike in appearance. What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 191 The American was more mature in figure and manner, but they were both of an age. They chatted merrily, as youth will do. His Majesty had left his binoculars at her castle in England when rambling over it in the family's absence — as the foreigners are some- times generous enough to let tourists do. They were a part of himself, almost. Till he found another pair which suited him, the trip seemed only half enjoyed. He had sighted vessels on the sea and he had watched the porpoises play in the ocean. On the Rhine they could have drawn the castles nearer than those he rented; on the trains they would have enlarged the land- scape ; and, as he had given up ever finding them and bought others in Geneva, here comes the fairy Lady Gwendolyn, who might send them to him. Instead, he suggested that she keep them. They became quite friendly, and during the con- versation the chaperon let slip the fact that she really heard there were some nice houses on the Hudson River. Alas ! the Princess, who prided herself on being from New York, was not around to tell the glories of her city. But his Majesty replied: ^^ Indeed, madam, some of them are grand enough to be called palaces.'' Where- upon the Countess suggested that the chaperon take Lady Gwendolyn to the United States for a visit, and showed her a picture of her own an- cestral home, which a certain English duke (who visited the family once) had said was very much like a castle itself. 192 What Marjorie Saw Abroad The drives over some of the terraced hills go a long way toward stamping the places of in- terest in one's mind, and these were happily indulged in for several days by the party after reaching Eome. They stopped at the great St. Peter's on one of these drives — the first place they had been to since the sculptor had accompanied them. The sight as one approaches is truly magnifi- cent — the edifice itself, the portico, the fluted pillars in the colonnade, all capped by images in such numbers their roofs seem peopled; the stone of a creamy gray cast. The colonnades consist of four rows of colossal pillars forming a semi-circle forward on either side the Basilica (church proper). The colonnades do not meet, but have a vast paved court between them, where fountains play, and carriages drive up to the palatial steps of St. Peter's; where tall lights scintillate upon the sprays of water at night; where a great obelisk looms up in the center. In the church portico (facing these), suspended above, is a stone balcony where the Pope addresses the people Ys^hen he has a mind to^ — the colonnade to shelter them in bad weather. There is room between the two middle rows for two car- riages abreast. The ceiling of the portico, done in stucco, is well worthy of inspection. At the ends of the portico are equestrian statues of Constantine and Charlemagne. St. Peter's is said to have What Marjorie Saw Abroad 19 o been founded by Constantine, and was built on tlie site of Nero ^s Circus. It is so well propor- tioned no one can form any idea of its size from viewing it. Some exquisite cherubs on the holy water stoups within look like little five-year-old children at a short distance, and they are nearly six feet high. In the floor of the nave are marks showing exactly how much larger it is than some other noted cathedrals. The spot where Charle- magne, Francis I, Louis XII, and others were crowned is marked in the nave by a brown por- phyry circle. The floor is beautifully inlaid with colored marbles. Four great pillars, graindly ornamented, stun the sense of size before one reaches the dome, which is so vast and loftly, such a conception of perfect art, one can realize how truly great was Michelangiolo to have thus carried out the de- sign. The piers upholding it are over two hun- dred feet in circumference, which knowledge is apt to take one's breath away in considering the dimensions of a building where they do not seem inharmonious. Beneath the dome is a rotunda with a railing and lovely stairs leading below, where St. Peter and St. Paul are reputed to be buried. No account in profane lore earlier than the second century hints at St. Peter having been in Eome, but, when you consider his character- istics, he most likely was. The Christians were so hunted and persecuted for many years there was more or less safety in keeping their history 194 What Marjorie Saw Abroad from the outside world, and the heathen would not think it worth while mentioning the advent or martyrdom of one Christian when they slaughtered them by the thousands. But it was commonly believed that he was at Rome ; handed down by word of mouth, among other ways, per- haps. Lights are kept burning around the rotunda, and the devout are praying at all hours. Statues, mosaics, colored marble columns and bronze en- rich the interior. Helena, mother of Constan- tine, is said to have gotten the two colored pil- lars from Solomon's Temple, and the bronzet columns were brought from a heathen temple. It was this Helena who discovered the Holy Sepulcher in a pilgrimage to Jerusalem. St. Peter 's is all very fresh-looking, and bril- liantly colored by the adornments mentioned, and interesting for the personalities concerned in their presence here. So much of the lore is hearsay one cannot tell the false from the true ; but, no matter who were or were not concerned in the making of it, there is no doubt about it being pleasing, and quite to one's taste, however fastidious. It speaks for itself. At the right, in the nave near the dome, sits St. Peter, in bronze, just high enough for de- votees to kiss his right foot, which is a little ex- tended. The shape of his toes is lost from con- stant osculation. Marjorie told his Majesty she saw twenty people kiss the great toe, or where What Marjorie Saw Abroad 195 it ought to be, while she was standing at the side of the extended nave looking at the elaborate red and gold chair of St. Peter enthroned at the end. To the guide, who was pointing out the chair and telling her it was an exact copy of one St. Peter used when he was first bishop of Rome, she said she thought St. Peter was too poor ever to have had such a rich-looking chair; and even if he had been presented with one, thought he would have declined it, as he had too recently been under the influence of the Saviour not to prefer a simple life. The guide laughed, and said the Church of Eome taught what he related to her. Not far from the chair is a figure of Paulus III. The story goes that he requested Michel - angiolo to put the figures of his mother and sis- ter near him in the same monument; which Michelangiolo did, but with the head of Dante on his mother's figure and that of Lucretia Bor- gia on that of his sister — making them so nude the Church was shocked enough to have some appropriate drapery put on them. Lucretia 's face is very beautiful, but that of Dante is old and careworn. Owing to his unbounded genius Michelangiolo seems to have been a privileged character. History relates that he had seven Popes, Charles V, and the proud de Medicis ^' under his thumb." In the wall of the Cistine Chapel, where hell is depicted, he put with Charon, Minos, the judge, bearing the face of 196 What Marjorie Saw Abroad Biagio Cesena (attendant of Paulus III), be- cause he had objected to the nudity of the fig- ures. St. Peter 's is so immense, portable organs are stationed at intervals to be carried where needed. On Sunday seats are to be hired out- side the door and taken in, if one desires. There are none in the church, and the Princess said she wished they were to rent during the week, for she thought it would be quite comfortable to sit down and the more enjoy the surround- ings. There was service at St. Peter's, at one of the altars, while the party were looking through, and all went in to it as the bell rang. The chor- isters, with deep lace and fine embroidery on the short vestments, over their red and purple gowns, filed in ; the priests were clothed in rich white cloaks, with great gold embroidered squares at the back. One priest was so old, or so great, he had a servant to hold his cloak back as he ascended the steps. He did not enter much into the services, but retired to a choir seat on high (the choirs sloping on either side), after presiding a little. The congregation stood, came and went as it pleased, while the organ pealed forth and the chants went on. The side aisles and transepts are just as hand- some and enormous as other divisions of this wonderful place. Beneath St. Peter's is another church and a crypt, and it really would take days to see all WJidt Marjorie Saw 'Abroad 197 to one's satisfaction; but a little of it is better than none. Taking luncheon at a restaurant just outside the piazza, they sat near a window, through which they could see one of the fountains and look through the nearest colonnade. Afterward they strolled leisurely through the colonnades, counted the pillars and lingered lovingly around them. The wing jutting forward on the left of St. Peter's, behind the colonnade, is used for the Pope's pilgrims, the guide said. Leading from the Basilica, back of this, is a covered way to the priests' apartments, where the guide said were four hundred rooms. The wing on the right is a part of the Vatican, and the entrance to it is known by the Swiss guards, wearing quaint uniforms of red, black and yellow. Mounting a glorious flight of stairs, with an equestrian statue of Constantine and the cross on one of the landings, then more great stairs, one reaches the picture gallery. The Vatican is so vast, as one proceeds through the different portions of it he is lost in wonder. There are known to be a thousand halls, besides many rooms, and over twenty courts, and room after room of new pictures, and old pictures and statuary mostly dug up around Rome. There are great pieces of tapes- try designed by Eaphael — not the Arras, France (the beginning of the art in the fourteenth cen- tury), but the Brussels, still retaining much 198 What Marjorie Saw Abroad ricliness of color. One is led on and on until one is thoroug-hly exliansted. The tapestries are New Testament scenes. The Pope's rooms are not far off from the stairs (Scala Eegia), though it is surmised that he lives in a sunny villa in or near the garden of the Vatican most of the time. His garden is at the rear, and is very beautiful, with many rows of lemon trees, palms, great cactus bushes, flowers and fountains, terraced anywhere and everywhere, and carriage drives sweep through and around this maze of loveliness. The party stood under the Pope's porte-cochere and looked through the large gateway. It was very in- viting. One morning, about eleven o'clock, our tour- ists, provided with a letter from their town priest (Eomanist), with whom they were on good terms, drove up to the right colonnade, alighted, and went past the Swiss guards to procure their blue papers for admittance and await the opening of the Cistine Chapel, where the Pope was to receive the Order of Mary and other pilgrims. As they looked up from the entrance, the long, broad, white marble steps were filled with young women and old, of the order of Mary, or Maria, having long white veils pinned on — some wear- ing a blue and some a green ribbon around the neck; some all in white, others in black, the white veils predominating. Marjorie said it reminded her of Jacob's lad- What Marjorie Saw Abroad 199 der, the veils like white wings, up, and up, and up, until they vanished because one's eyes could no longer distinguish. In an anteroom they awaited the opening of the chapel door. The Swiss guards were on duty at this door, the regular army soldiers walking around keeping order. The Pope's chair — red and gold — sat on one side awaiting him, a railing between it and the spectators, also a railing on the other side, the two railings form- ing an angle outside the door's edge, leaving room for the bevy of white-veiled people to pass, the door being opened at their approach. Some bore elegant banners, some gifts. Spec- tators were allowed to go in when these had taken their seats in the pews. The spectators were so much afraid there would not be room for them, each pushed and jostled to get ahead. The party held back until the scrimmage was over. One poor woman had several hat pins, with which her black lace veil was pinned, thrust into her head, and her cries were distressing; but the crowd bore on. There was room enough for all, and no necessity for such lack of cour- tesy. The Pope, Leo XIII, was borne in the ante- room from a side door in a sedan chair, to pro- tect him from the draughts of the corridors. Reaching the grand red and gold chair (in shape like a large arm-chair), he stepped out of the other into this; the poles were thrust through, and he was borne thus enthroned upon the 200 What Marjorie Saw Abroad shoulders of twelve beautifully attired, bare- headed pages. Their costumes were of heavy cardinal silk, short cutaway frock coats, knee breeches, red silk stockings and black patent- leather slippers. Down the nave he ^'descend- ed" — the Romanists call it — amid thunderous applause, as every one arose until Leo XIII was set down just before the altar steps. Alighting from the chair, he walked up the altar steps, assisted by a cardinal — some said the Secretary of State. Other priests garbed in black were awaiting him on the right at the foot of the steps. After a short prayer the Pope was relieved of his long red silk robe and red, gold-embroid- ered silk stole, and sat down in a large, hand- some red chair in front of the altar. In kneeling posture the head of each order kissed his hand, and passed on, unless she had a gift to offer, this taking a little more time. "White veils fluttered, and the Pope's beautiful diamond cross on his breast twinkled like Sirius on a cold night. Seated, he wore a white silk cassock richly embroidered in gold. When the priests in black (pilgrims) ap- proached, they knelt and kissed his foot, cased in a red slipper and embroidered with a gold cross. The gorgeous banners were presented, and his words of thanks for them and the silver fili- gree purse containing two thousand dollars in gold^ a handsome album with the donors ' names What Marjorie Saw Abroad 201 inscribed, and an exquisite rug, were received with shouts of happiness. '^I believe they love the dear old man,'' said Marjorie. ^^He does not seem to tire, either, and he is over ninety, I hear. ' ' ^'Yes," replied the Princess; ^4ie has such a good mind he spends his leisure time writing Latin poetry, they tell me. ' ' Following the presentation of gifts, a short paper was read by an official, assisted by the Cardinal, who wore a red silk robe and red skull cap. The long red silk robe and stole were put on the Pope, and he took his seat again in the great open chair; the poles were thrust through, the twelve handsome young pages lifted him on high, and he went out as he came, amid shouts of joy and love, the bearers pausing at times while he stood to give the blessing. The different orders of Mary followed the Pope and his attendants; then the spectators walked out, pleased at having seen so beautiful a ceremony in so great a place. In the Cistine Chapel the Pope holds all the services at which he officiates. It is frescoed throughout. On the left walls are scenes from the life of Moses, symbolical of the coming of the Kedeemer to deliver the world from the slavery of sin, as Moses saved the Israelites from the Egyptians. On the right wall are events in the history of the Saviour. In one 202 What Marjorie Saw Abroad scene He is giving the keys of Heaven to St. Peter. Tliese are fine examples of the Floren- tine school, and were begnn about 1481 and done by several great artists. On the ceiling Michelangiolo has carried out the same symbol as the others — the Creator, the creation, including Noah and the prophets; on the altar wall, the Last Judgment. The devil tempting Eve is a man from his waist up, the rest of him coiled around a tree. By others, on the entrance wall, are the Eesurrection of Christ and the archangel Michael contending for the body of Moses. Michelangiolo 's work in the Cistine Chapel and Eaphael's stanze (rooms) in the Vatican rival each other in perfection of art. The many, many details in this chapel are too numerous to mention. Suffice it to say that Michelangiolo was four years doing his part, and the chapel is one hundred and thirty or more feet long and forty-five feet wide. To view the ceiling with any pleasure, one should have a mirror, which can be had for the asking. The Vatican contains the finest collection of antiquities in the world — among them the Torso of Hercules, Apollo Belvedere, and the Lao- coon.^ The Torso of Hercules — though it has not the lion skin usually accompanying his repre- sentations — ^has the name of Apollonius of Athens inscribed. He is supposed to have lived the first century B.C. There are several con- What Marjorie Saw Abroad 203 jectures concerning it, but its value is great, for it was found preserved in the palace of Colonna about the middle of 1400 A.D. The Apollo, in marble, is supposed to be a copy of a fine Greek work made probably in the fourth century B.C. It was found at Antium, not far from Rome, near the end of the fifteenth century, and put in the Vatican through Michelangiolo 's influ- ence. There are many conjectures concerning tlie original, but nothing definite is known. The future may develop the truth. The Laocoon, of marble, was found in 1506 A.D. in the baths of Titus, who flourished 79 A.D. Pliny mentioned it as the work of three Ehodians, who from re- cent developments are supposed to have lived 100 B. C. According to a Greek legend, Lao- coon and his two sons were attacked by serpents because he married against the wishes of the god Apollo. He had also warned the Trojans against the wooden horse left there by the Greeks, which proved disastrous to them. The Sala di Constantino is very interesting. On the long wall are the Battle of Constantine, in which the cross prevailed; his baptism; Rome presented by Constantine (whose reign began A.D. 337) to Sylvester I, and numerous others. All but two of the Muses were found near Tivoli in 1774, and perhaps are a copy of a group by Praxitiles (340 B.C.) or of his school. The coachman told the party that St. Peter's, the Vatican and gardens comprised at least an 204 What Marjorie 8aw Abroad area of five miles around. His Majesty said he would not be surprised if it were more. It may be a little more expensive, but for com- fort and to save time it is an excellent idea to have an authorized guide who speaks one's own language, as well as the language of the coun- try. He will give you the clue, at once, how to find what you want to know quickly in your guide-book, and more often than not you will find he has told you the correct thing. His Maj- esty had one whenever he could find the right sort. At this time — perhaps because it was just before the Pope's Silver Jubilee — many pil- grims were in the city, and the Princess said it was the best time to see the Scala Santa (sainted stairs) reputed to have been brought from the palace of Pontius Pilate, and to have been once tread by the feet of the Saviour. These stairs are in what is left of the old Lat- eran (the Popes' home before they lived perma- nently in the Vatican), near what is commonly called St. John in Later ano. The marble of the steps is covered with wood for protection, and one can ascend only on the knees. As the party entered, the steps were crowded with kneeling figures. On either side there are two flights of stone steps to descend from. Altogether it seems simply to be a house of stairs. On reach- ing the top of the Scala Santa the devotees rise and walk to the screened windows of a sacred altar immediately in front of the stairs and What Marjorie Saw Abroad 205 pray. The party, not being of that faith, went up and down tlie other stairs. In this place there is the same richness and beauty that there is in all the Roman churches. A group of statuary on either side the foot of the Scala Santa, and other pieces in sight, give adornment and relieve the sameness of so many stairs, though the statuary itself is not of the finest workmanship. St. John, or San Giovanni in Laterano, named from the family (Laterani) who once owned the old palace in which one of the emperors made a church and presented it to Sylvester I, ^'is the only church on earth which has a Pope for a bishop, '' the coachman boasted. It is now extraordinarily elegant. After vicissitudes with an earthquake and fires, it has been changed and worked up to its present condition — an elegant piazza and por- tico in front, glorious frescoed ceiling in the Renaissance, lovely inlaid floor, statues of the prophets and apostles, and all to make it rich in effect. A loggia outside, similar to that at St. Peter's, where the Pope could give the bene- diction, was added for the purpose. The Church of Maria Maggiore is immense and handsome. Its approach, through the large piazza, and its ornamentations render it impos- ing. It enjoys the reputation of having a piece of the true manger wrought into one which re- calls the whole scene of the birth of Christ. The church was begun in the fourth century, and the marble columns and mosaics of the old 206 What Marjorie Saw Abroad churcli are retained in the present edifice. It took years to build most of tlie churclies, and they were continually undergoing changes or enlargement. Each generation wanted some- thing to stamp it ; hence chapels were added, and other distinguishing marks. CHAPTER XV Though they are not as thick as hops, which some make out, anywhere in Italy a bevy of children — some half naked — are always hanging about trying to discover your shoe untied, if you are walking, something wrong about the car- riage, if you are driving, which they are quick to rectify or to give you notice of, hoping it may draw a cent or two. The favorite pastime is to turn somersaults for a half-mile or so, expecting a coin for the entertainment they imagine they give. One meets, them in bunches in drives on the city outskirts mainly. Outside the great gate making the northern entrance to Rome the Borghese gardens lie. The Borghese were rich and powerful. Their for- mer belongings, like those of the de Medicis in Florence and elsewhere, are seen all over Rome. The villa in the garden is now a museum. Its high garden walls, its beautiful fagade and ex- tensive grounds are most elegant. Within, the villa abounds in statuary. A lovely piece, of Pauline Buonaparte Borghese, by Canova, is in one of the front rooms. Outside, on the house, there are also handsome figures. A vast estate the present Prince had. ''About 207 208 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad twenty-five palaces, and only one left,'' the coachman said. The villa and grounds were sold, the fall our tourists were there, for over a million dollars, the King generously giving a large portion toward its purchase. As one en- ters the north gate — where St. Peter and St. Paul stand boldly out in marble — from the Bor- ghese gardens, the Piazza Popolo leads to the Monte Pincio. Here statuary runs all the way up, forming a beautiful fagade on the hillside adjoining the piazza. Palms, cacti and all kinds of vegetation beautify the surroundings; mar- ble sphinxes sit stolid along the walls looking on the Egyptian monolith in the center of the court or piazza below; the Three Marys — one over Nero's tomb (presumably) — in full view. The Three Marys are Roman churches. On the Pincio are beautiful drives where the band plays at a certain place; where swelldom meets late in the afternoon, exchanging visits in their carriages, and enjoy the lovely sur- roundings. Going out one sees the Villa Med- icis, containing a collection of value not in Rome itself. Across the Tiber, farther south, is the Passeggiata Margherita — a drive. One enters a gate and goes through a beauti- ful garden, like fairyland, where the wide road sweeps, bordered on either side with busts of modern Italians of celebrity, and goes past a handsome monument of Garibaldi mounted on a noble-looking steed, by Gallori. It is sur- rounded by groups of other designs, and alto- What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 209 gether very elegant. Amid beautiful trees and luxurious growth of palms and flowers, on an elevation, and winding footpaths leading up or down to sweet places, the drive continues. "When it goes down it leads to Tasso's oak, which has an inscription written thereon against the tree- trunk which ordinary mortals cannot decipher. Our tourists alighted and sat under the oak, and wondered if it would do them any good to touch elbows with the tryst of an unevenly balanced individual like Tasso. Great poet and unfortu- nate man, he deserves our sympathy. Just as the tide began to turn he was lifted from his carriage into the Monastery of St. Onofrio, died, and was buried there in 1595, not far from the oak, where a beautiful view of Rome lies before one. His tomb is in the first chapel. On the same side of the river, on one of the drives, though in the opposite direction, the party got out at San Pietro in Monto. Hurry- ing through the church, the priest conducted them outside to a little domed chapel. The main part seemed to be underground, for he led them down a flight of outer steps, where he said St. Peter had been crucified on an inverted cross. He reached through a hole, made in the floor for the purpose, with a hoe and pulled up some sand, and gave it to those of the party who wanted it. Marjorie took some. The little room was very sweet and lined entirely with marble ornamentation in tasteful patterns. Eeturning to the piazza in front of the church, they beheld 210 What Marjorie Saw Abroad Rome from the height in all the glory of her beauty. St. Paul's prison, later called the Mamartine, where he and St. Peter, it is said, were confined, will always be interesting to Christian pilgrims. There are steps to descend to it, for it is under- ground, though the steps were not there then, and these two distinguished prisoners were let down by ropes through a round hole in the up- per floor. A well is shown, which good Romanists give out was caused by a miracle for the illustrious saints to baptize with. Though their bodies were put to rest under the rotunda at St. Peter's, their heads are buried at St. John in Laterano, already mentioned, and some of their bones, according to tradition, are scattered all over the world. From the prison they went to the church erected in St. Paul's honor, and called San Puola fuori le Mura. It is like the dream of marble halls. The first great nave has portraits of the saints as a frieze, and Christ and the Apostles in the main altar. The other room or cross nave — ^both literally lined with marble — has the portraits of the Popes for a frieze. This part is chaste, beautiful, and grand, with about eighty elegant marble columns on either side, forming arches as they proceed. In this in- stance St. Paul has fairly won on earth the glory he coveted in Heaven — to die for his Lord. Late one afternoon the party drove to the What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 211 Three Fountains. After going some distance the road went down into a valley, and it seemed very sweet and secluded here. The supposition is that St. Paul's head, when he was decapitated, bounded three times as it rolled from the block, opening a fountain at each spot where it touched the earth. The stone pillar or block on which his head was laid is shown along with the fountains. The tall eucalyptus trees and the undulating grounds are very fetching, and are approached by a handsome gate. One can look through and get a grateful perspective before entering. Of the three churches, one goes first to that which has the fountains and the block, arranged in handsome style against the church wall, inside — each fountain liaving a little well beneath. The priest took a dipper lying near and offered the party a drink. His Majesty took one, but the others said it was too dark in there to see what they were drinking, and took one outside, where there was a nice spring. The coachman called the inmates Friar Brothers, and said they were rich, owning much land around the monastery. They and their place look well-to-do. He thought there were about fifty of them. The real name of these priests seems to be Trappist, but to those not of their religion one is no doubt as good as the other. One of these escorted the party around, telling them that he was the only member of the fra- ternity who spoke English, and that only four 212 What Marjorie Saw Abroad of them were allowed to talk when they wanted to. **Yon must be pleased to see English-speak- ing tourists ; then you have a chance/' Marjorie said. ^'I am glad to see Americans," he replied; and, after digging around in his clothes for a minute or two, extricated a button, the size of a dime, with the United States flag on it. The head of some religious order in the United States had spent a fortnight here, and had prom- ised, he said, to send for him. He said he had never forgotten all he had heard about the United States, and suggested to Marjorie to send him a ticket as she was leaving the country. She, having heard that they were so rich, thought there must be a reason for this request connected with a vow to the order, and laugh- ingly replied : ' ' Shan't I send you some of my clothes, too V^ Then the Princess and she got to giggling over the funny figure Brother Clement — which was not his name — would appear in Marjorie 's clothes, and under their influence he became quite merry. Marjorie said she liked that lively priest, and that she was going to try, in the proper way, to get him where he wanted to be, if it fell in her way. He gave her his card and told her where to send it. The conversation went on while they were walking around the court, after he had con- ducted them to the chapel under which St. Paul What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 213 was incarcerated a few hours before he was be- headed. No sunlight penetrated the room — only a few dull rays from the outer hall windows. Near the prison, on the opposite side of the cor- ridor, he told them thousands of Christians were buried, and that they had been slaughtered by the heathen emperor after they had worked seven years on Diocletian's Bath. Now this is crumbling away and the Christians are having their day. Those who have not seen the dungeons, the torture chambers, nor heard the vicious tales which tourists hear, do not know the agony men and women have endured for their religion; do not realize what strong characters have existed. The remains of a Temple of Neptune in Eome are now built into an Exchange for these de- spised Christians, the Corinthian columns out- side giving quite an air of distinction, and show- ing the vanity of the heathen ambitions. Having walked down the slope from the prison chapel, they crossed the court and en- tered what to Marjorie looked somewhat like a store inside, having a counter running along near the wall. Here the friar took to his heels, through a half-open door, and disappeared, after telling them he would bring them a drink of liqueur of his own make. The Princess said if she were writing a book, the heels, the door — the tout ensemble — would make a good picture. The priest was garbed in brown, a long, loose frock tied with a cord. With the liqueur he 214 What Marjorie Saw Abroad brought some dear little glasses to drink it from. Marjorie wondered if he made such a selection of glasses for everybody. The liqueur is made on the place and offered to tourists who come along. Eeturning, it was almost dark near Constan- tino's arch, which was illuminated with gas, and the Coliseum had a circle of gas lamps around it, truly blending the ancient and modern — the half-moon shining through its ruins. As night was coming on Marjorie got a little uneasy. She said that she had always heard that there were so many thieves in the Italian cities, especially at evening, and when any rough workmen passed she always smiled her sweetest to make them kindly disposed. It was too late to linger or explore, and the party de- cided to do so the next day. However, they stopped a little and admired the Coliseum as it stood out alone beneath the orb of night and sparkle of the lights — a silent monument of the past. ^'My, what a noble place the Coliseum is!" they all exclaimed, as the great ruin loomed up before them by daylight, with its tier upon tier of massive stone and brick. There was a place set apart for the Emperor to sit, stairs for him and his suite to ascend — stairs for every one, great, broad flights of them. The colossal stone columns surrounding it were joined by iron — no crumbling here of mortar ; but, alas ! the needs of war demanded the iron, and the columns are What Marjorie Saw Abroad 215 marred with holes. The building extends over six hundred feet on one side, and over ^ve hun- dred on the other, making an elipse. The arena of this vast building was so ar- ranged and the floor so constructed the latter could be taken up at pleasure and water turned in for naval combats, to entertain the pleasure- wearied emperors ; and here the Christians were tortured by wild beasts for pagan pleasure. Our tourists were shown a house upon the hill above where the beasts had been kept; the place in the Coliseum where they entered the arena; where those who were to combat them entered; the room where the women were taken; where the dead were dragged out; and the picture of the whole scene was presented as graphically as any author has depicted. The Coliseum was begun by Vespasian, who began to reign in 69 A.D., and was finished by Titus, about eleven years later. It was erected over the once beautiful and extensive gardens Nero had laid out around his wonderful golden house. A splendid colossal statue of himself, gilded and representing him as a god of the sun, assisted in the decorations of the gardens. And it perhaps accounts for the name, Colosseum, given to this site later. The Furum Eomanum, which is distinct from the emperors' fora, with Caesar's palace and the other great ancient buildings around it, are fast CTTimbling away, though excavations in recent years have disclosed some handsome marbles. 216 What Marjorie Saw Abroad The party rambled tlirough the ruins while an authorized guide and a guide-book explained the littered way. The Romans designated the word ^ 'forum" to mean an open place where people met to transact business, both political and mercantile. There was only one during the republic; but under the emperors who wished to distinguish themselves others arose. Among them the most magnificent was Trajan's. The coaclnxian ex- plained the word ''forum" to them by saying it meant "business"; that at the Coliseum, on the other hand, the people congregated for pleasure. Trajan's Forum is in another part of the city, and in ruins; the columns in the arena of it broken and lying in the hollow in memory of ancient days in the midst of modern buildings, the old and the new ; St. Peter now standing on a tall column where Trajan's figure once domi- nated the place. Trajan came to the throne in 98 A.D. As old as Rome is, it is fresh and progressive- looking, and many handsome buildings going up, which, by way of contrast, show off against the old ones. A dingy tower on which the coach- man said Nero played the fiddle at the burning of Rome was pointed out by him. Whether he was joking or not Marjorie never knew. He did not seem to be a joker. The Quirinal, King Victor Emmanuel's pal- ace, fronts on a paved piazza which has a mag- nificent fountain in the center, of horses, figures What Marjorie Saw Abroad 217 and an obelisk. It has a history in itself. The horses, called ''The Horse Tamers/' were done during the time of the emperors after the man- ner of Lysippus (Greek, 372-316 B.C.). The obelisk is from the tomb of Augustus, and was erected there in the first century. The Foreign Minister's Palace stands across the street, on one side. A small upper balcony projecting from the King's Palace serves as a stand for the King when he wishes to speak to the crowd. The palace is stone and yellow stucco on the outside ; all in harmony — gold, crystal, brocade and tapestry within. Nothing seemed worn or had a used look. Marjorie said she believed her home could sit comfortably in the state dining- room; but youth is given to exaggerations, and true dimensions can rarely be gathered by the eye in a harmonious building. The throne-room in the Quirinal is red and gold, the throne at one end, a handsome chair sitting on a dai's. There is a canopy of rich ma- terial above, and a seat on either side, presum- ably for the monarch's consort and a member of the family. The garden about the palace is very^ luxu- rious. Eows of lemon trees filled with fruit lend a pleasing air. From here the party went to the Eospigliosi Palace to see Guido Eeni's great masterpiece, The Aurora, on the ceiling, and apparently life- size. Sitting down in front of a slanting mir- ror, arranged as though it were a cover to a 218 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad school desk, one can inspect the painting com- fortably and examine the details, after strain- ing the neck to see the real painting. The stone stairs leading to the show-rooms wind around so gracefully and are so handsome they are worthy of admiration in themselves. The pal- ace was erected in 1603 by the nephew of Pope Paul V on the ruins of Constantine's Bath, and is called after the Rospigliosi family. It is the seat of some embassy to the Vatican. The Pan- theon, founded by Agrippa (27 B.C.), son-in- law of Augustus Caesar, and once filled with heathen gods, has been used since the sixth cen- tury as a Christian church. A beautiful stone porch with eight stone col- umns lets one into a massive door which opens into a vast circular room with a large round hole in the middle of a domed ceiling. Some of the heathens worshiped the sun, and that was the only way to let him in. The rain pours in through this opening, which was noticed by the party, who went in just after a shower; but the water soon runs off through drains or holes in the floor for the purpose. Raphael, the great artist, is buried here, also King Victor Emmanuel 11,* and some celebrated artists, among others. The tombs are more or less ornamented, ranged around a well-paved floor against the walls. The building is of brick and veneered outside with marble, much of which they could see had fallen oif . A fountain *I think he has since b?^n moYe4. What Marjorie Saw Abroad 219 in front adds to the surroundings outside, and the piazza gave room enough for the party to get a fair view of it. The approach to Hadrian's tomb is over the Ponte Sant' Angelo, a beautiful bridge crossing the Tiber, ornam^ented with statues. This, with immense angels, St. Peter and St. Paul, stand- ing out boldly above the railing, make a very attractive whole. The original bridge was built by Hadrian, A.D. 136, and named after him. The tomb is also called Castle Sant' An- gelo because Gregory the Great thought he saw St. Michael sheathing his sword above the tomb when praying for a release from the plague, and over which a chapel was erected in memory of the vision, which meant that the plague would soon cease. The tomb can be \dsited on the way to St. Peter's, as this is the route to St. Peter's, but the party went where it suited them. Wanting to see some places thoroughly, they sometimes went by one so as to have more time for others, then returned on another day to what they had passed. The tomb is as much like a castle, when one gets inside, as any castle they saw. Hadrian, and the emperors and families to Caracalla, were buried here, and they made it rich in stat- uary all around the margin, the top capped in the middle by a grand statue of Hadrian him- self. Later, the tomb was used as a fort, and the 220 What Marjorie Saw Abroad stone figures decorating it hurled down upon the enemy. The Popes used it as a dwelling. It has a beautiful chamber, frescoed all over, used by Paulus III, who was so progressive he had an elevator to transport him up to this chamber for his dinner. He became Pope in 1534. This Paulus was the chief promoter of the Inquisition, and the secrets of the dread tribunal were discussed in a room above. Beatrice Cenci was confined here in a cell, low and damp, into which they also went. When one sees her sweet-faced picture, one never thinks of her strength, never reflects how her life's history was enacted in one of the most remarkable and painful eras. CHAPTER XVI Via Appia was made for a military road 312 B.C., and is one of the interesting drives of Rome. For some distance the road is bounded by high Walls with vineyards outside; farther along one sees the country, the ruins of aque- ducts, the remains of tombs, and the mountains. On the drive the coachman stopped at the ruins of Caraccalla's Bath. Marjorie and his Majesty, after consulting the Countess and the Princess, usually made out a list of places and showed them to him, and he fitted them into the hours very nicely. There is always an author- ized guide or keeper to show one through, for little or nothing, and good guide-books to do the rest. In the bath the roofs are gone, which is not singular when one remembers that Caraccalla became emperor in A.D. 212 and reigned only six or seven years ; but the bath was extended and finished by his two immediate successors. There was a race track around it, and a wall. The mosaics in the floors of the rooms which have been cleared of a deposit of dirt are in ex- cellent condition and the patterns beautiful. Marjorie said she wondered people of influence 221 222 What Marjorie Saw Abroad did not buy them and pave their floors with them, instead of leaving them to be covered up, keeping only enough for show. She scraped the dirt away in many places and saw some beauti- ful designs ; then she realized the wisdom of the sculptor friend over whose handsome paved floor she had lunched. The emperors erected the baths to ingratiate themselves with the people. They were public baths, and were large and elegant. Though on a much grander scale, they may be compared to clubs of now-days where members go to kill time or amuse themselves. In them were gym- nasiums, places for other sorts of amusements, libraries, gardens, and sometimes theaters. Many unique articles are buried under the ruins and excavated from time to time. Marjorie pro- cured a very odd-shaped earthen pitcher, about ten inches high, with a Eoman soldier for a handle, encircled by a dado of horsemen and gladiators battling with one another. This val- uable relic was carried all the way home in her hand, the music box having been put in the trunk on reaching Florence. The bath, one can see from the remains, was once as large as a good-sized palace, and de- scriptions of baths tell us nothing was spared to give them the rich, voluptuous appearance Rome always possesses. Statuary abounded in profusion, and stone benches of attractive de- signs, their seats no doubt being covered with soft silk cushions, for Eome is not a warm place What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 223 all the year round. Frescoes adorned the walls and ceiling, and one can, with little imagination, draw a very luxurious picture of a Roman bath. Some little distance from the bath the coach- man stopped at another place and informed the party that ' ' in there is the tomb of Scipio Af ri- canus," nodding his head toward a sort of up- heaval of earth with growth on top. Getting out and opening a gate, they walked upward to what seemed a cave, and had to make considerable noise before the keeper appeared from the outside somewhere. He seemed very old and weak, but he took them to another little cave, not far off, and got from a small shelf near the entrance a candle for each. The Princess thought this very interesting and mysterious, especially when they all marched in the first cave, with bated breath and lighted candles, to the unknown. The candles were in candlesticks, and easily carried, walk- ing up and down the undulating way ; but Mar- jorie got to wondering what would happen to them if the feeble old man lost his memory or would suddenly fall down and die — she knew that they had turned off from the main entrance, but no more. However, they reached the name of Scipio Africanus after no long walk, and as she saw the inscription her thoughts wandered to the Eoman lady who called her sons *^my jewels," and who wondered why every one called her ''Cornelia, the mother of the Grac- chi," instead of ''the daughter of Scipio Afri- 224 What Marjorie Saw Abroad canus." After Caesar, lie was Eome's greatest general, bringing Spain, Northern Africa, and what he knew of Asia under the Eoman yoke, taking the command at the age of twenty-four, under adverse circumstances. He died in 183 B.C. Along the way the carriage stopped at Dom- ine Quo Vadis, where, they were informed, St. Peter saw the vision in which he was told to re- turn to Rome and suffer martyrdom, and where tradition says the footprints of the Saviour were left to emphasize it. Farther on the foot- prints were shown them, after entering San Si- bastiano, over the Via Appia catacombs, and hunting up a priest, whom they had to drag from his knees almost, he was praying so ar- dently. All around the dainty church, or rather on either side, are alcoves similar to those in JSTotre Dame in Paris, where an altar in each shows through a grating. On the right, about the middle of the row, the party was let in, and there against the wall, enclosed with grating, were the sacred evidences of the vision seen with the aid of a lighted taper which the priest held near. On the tourists went from this place, stopping at a small gate in a high wall, where the coach- man announced the Catacombs of St. Calixtus. Entering the gate on foot and walking along for about a quarter of a mile, they saw a little house of one or two rooms, in a field or vine- yard. This they entered, seeing a door open. What Marjorie Saw Abroad 225 There was a priest behind a counter, who fur- nished them and others who followed with ta- pers and a guide, the tapers about a foot long and not quite the size of an ordinary pencil. Marjorie said she judged from the candles they were not going far, but they held out longer than she expected. The thought was well, how- ever, for she needed cheering reflections after the gloomy history the place recalls. She had asked the coachman to take them to a mild one. The priest guide had a lengthy cane, with a long taper similar to those of the others wound close- ly about a foot of it. Going around outside to the back of the little house, they entered a door, and, descending a flight of steps, they were soon fairly in. Marjorie thought it all right down there after she got used to it. It was not unpleas- antly damp, she thought, and there were not so many skeletons that they were forced upon her notice. The ceilings in the corridors have electric lights in one or two places, which is com- forting, and the tiers of graves on each side are mostly open and empty. She thought they re- sembled sleepers on the train, except that they were made of stone and had no curtains. Some of the Popes were buried here. St. Cecilia's monument is here, also a recumbent figure of her in marble. There is a great deal told about her musical powers and great goodness. There is a little chapel, and some of the tombs of the rich were lined with marble and carved in nice 226 What Marjorie Saw Abroad designs, and had frescoes on the walls, a pea- cock among them. The Christians congregated here during the persecutions and had their dead buried here, the Romans believing in cremation and storing the ashes away in urns. When the party were down there a man among the eight or ten English-speaking tourists said he did not feel well and must get out, and the priest had to leave the others to show him the way. Marjorie told the Princess she would have gone, too, and made the others go, if another party just behind had not had a guide. The latter were all Germans and had a German guide. However, their English-speaking guide returned while they were quaking in their boots at being left, and they continued their way. The passages were not level ; they went up and down and around ; once or twice they went down some steps. Finally Marjorie saw daylight at the head of a long flight of steps with a glass door somewhere on it, and she knew she was near the end. The sun was just down, and the priest pointed all around the field and said the Catacombs ex- tended about fifty miles around, but he had shown them only enough to know what they were like. There was a railing around the opening of the exit stairs, which were only a few feet from those they first descended. Both entrances had doors, which must be kept locked, or they would What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 227 be of no use. The fear of robbers, which some people discuss — in these catacombs, at least — is all a bugbear. The candles were used up — just enough left to hold by. Marjorie said she would keep her remnant to remember the occasion, if it needed any stimulus, though she did not think it possible; still, it would be nice to show to friends. Not far from S. Puola fuori le Mura is the English cemetery, with ' ^ Resurectus " written over the gate. After walking straight from this gate on a broad gravel path, and going up a few steps, a little to the left, one finds a flat stone, under some trees, its head toward the wall, and inscribed : ''Percy Bysshe Shelley, Cor Cordium, Natus IV aug. mdcccxcii. ' ' ' Nothing of him that doth fade But doth suffer a sea change Into something rich and strong.' '' Marjorie stooped and picked a leaf, closing it in her item book. Only his ashes lie here; his heart was not burned when his body was cre- mated, according to the Greek custom. It was preserved and was taken to Boscomb, England. He was lost while boating on the Gulf of Sper- zia, near Genoa, Italy, where he lived at the time. In the same garden, but over the wall by an- 228 What Marjorie Saw Abroad other gate, led to from the outside, in what is called the old cemetery, lies the poet Keats, his dear friend Severn by his side. Majorie had never thought much about Keats, but the hopeless epitaph, ''Here lies one whose name is writ in water, ' ' touched her nature, inasmuch as he had ordered it put on; and she gathered a few leaves to remind her not to give up like Keats, as may be natural with young and tender natures, but to struggle on, satisfied and con- tented that she was doing her best. But Keats did not have her happy home to guide, encour- age and cheer, nor her health. Health and good cheer often make the man or woman. He died far from home, in his twenty-sixth year, at Eome, of consumption. He went to Italy for his failing health, dying some months after, in 1821, and of a broken heart over his imaginary fail- ures, it is generally thought. But I imagine his heart was broken over his bad health more than anything else. His "Lamia,'' with the exception of a few lines and phrases, is considered exquisite. Also the "Eve of St. Ag- nes." Had he lived he would most likely have seen his name "writ'' in something more sub- stantial than water, even as it now is. Villa Farnesina, on the west bank of the Tiber, is a good example of the Renaissance. The edifice is a two-story building, not very large, but the gardens extend to the river, and were quite capacious before the changes in the river were made. The most interesting features What Marjorie Saw Abroad 229 are the mytliological paintings by Eapliael. The prestige of the characters, the reputed beauty of many of them, Venus drawn in her chariot by doves, the situation, the wedding or nuptials, gave a wide scope for this great artist to paint something very fascinating. In another room, his picture of Galatea in a shell riding the sea, surrounded by Nymphs, Tritons, and such crea- tures as mythology always represents scenes, is still more skilfully done. Other exquisite types of Eenaissance are EaphaePs Sibyls re- cording the revelations which they are receiv- ing from angels, the Sibyl of Cumse, the Per- sian, the Phrygian, and that of Tibur. These are in the first chapel, Santa Maria delta Pace. According- to Greek and Roman legend a Sibyl was an oracle or prophetess. Rome is embellished with many magnificent fountains fairly reveling in splendid groups of statuary. The waters of Fontana Trevi have the power, so say the natives, of bringing one back to. Rome if one drinks with a proviso on leaving. The coachman seemed desirous that they should all take a drink; in fact, he sug- gested it. Marjorie said she did not think she would ever return, but thought it would do no harm to take one. This she did the evening be- fore leaving — when a small Italian handed her a drink in a glass the coachman had procured at a neighboring store — at the same time carry- ing out the proviso, which is to throw a coin in the pool of the fountain, much to the astonish- 230 What Marjorie Saw Abroad ment of the boy, who thought she was going to give it to him for catching the drinking water from a spout at the side. He looked so wistfully at the spot where it fell she regretted she had not another for him; but to accommodate all the seemingly needy, she said, one would have to bring a maid with a bag of coin along at every outing. His Majesty told her to comfort her- self — that before she was out of sight the boy would wade in and get the coin. The Princess had all along intended to remain in Italy through the winter, but she remained with her party till the time of parting. She was quite equal to two special cavaliers, besides others who hovered around; and perhaps she had three special ones, for Mr. Duke (now in Eome with the boys) himself was quite atten- tive, but said he had no chance with those ^Hwo youngsters." Whether right or not, one can- not say. His manners were more fascinating than those of most men, and Kalph inherited them in a degree. The berths of his Majesty, wife and daughter had been engaged on a certain ship, and he said they just had time to see Naples. As Mr. Duke and the young men with him were to remain abroad longer, they did not hurry to Naples, though Ealph would have been delighted to go, and we know all about Peter's desire. Polite- ness required him to remain in Rome with his party, and the Prince, being free to follow the What Marjorie Saw Abroad 231 Princess to Naples, might get the inside track of him. He knew, however, that Ralph and the old gentlem.an would go to Naples soon to see their newly made friends off for the United States, and he consoled himself with this thought. But when Peter & Co. reached Naples poor Peter found the Prince so far advanced he thought it well the parties were soon to break up. CHAPTEE XVII Naples, it is said, is larger than any other Italian city. According to the loquacious young coachman, who was enterprising enough to have studied English with a view of going to Amer- ica, there are three girls born for every boy, and out of the eight hundred thousand inhabitants six hundred thousand are females. He took great pride in showing the palace of a prince who had married a rich American lady, and remarked that he would like to go to the United States himself to try to find a rich wife, but that he had to serve three years in the army before he could leave the country; that if he left with- out a permit he would be liable to be caught and put in jail. He was very communicative, and had a written recommendation as to his knowl- edge in the lore of Naples and the interesting places there. The party drew him out, and were entertained as well as amused by his wit and egotism. Stopping one day at a store, Marjorie went into the street, after finishing her purchases, while waiting for the others, to look into the display windows, as well as up and down the street — there is always something interesting What Marjorie Saw Abroad 23 o to see in an Italian city. Gionne (as I shall call him) jumped from the box and undertook to explain the pictures to her, she asking about some whose names she could not make out in Italian. ^ ' That 's our Queen, ' ' he said ; ^ ' Elena. She is German, and very nice. That's our King," pointing to one of Victor Emmanuel III, with- out waiting for any comment on his first an- nouncement. "He is good for everybody, but the one before him was only good for some, and they killed him. ' ' When Marjorie told him of what Gionne said, his Majesty smiled grimly and said it was rather a primitive way of settling matters. The crack of Gionne 's whip resounded like a pistol shot as he rattled over the streets — hav- ing no rubber tires to the wheels ; in fact, they did not see any cabs to hire with rubber tires. The whip is long and limber, like that of a coun- try ox-driver in the United States. The coach- man whirls it overhead, and the louder it pops the happier he is. Those on the back seat thought their eyes in danger at first, but when they observed how skilfully the whip was wielded they did not demur, unless one or more of the party was feeling worn out, when they would request him not to make quite so much noise. In Florence the pop is pretty loud, in Rome very loud, and in Naples almost unbear- able. The noise the coachman makes in a crowded part telling the rabble to clear out is 234 TFhat Marjorie Saiv Abroad grating on a tired traveler's nerves. Naples has the name of being the noisiest city in the world. Looking from the boulevard fronting the Grand Hotel the Bay of Naples seems almost a circle^ the Isle of Capri in the distance and a few projections on either side assisting in the de- lusion. Smoking Vesuvius and a part of Naples, in- cluding Fortress Uova on one side, Naples cir- cling around the water's edge on the other, with a view of promontories above and high cliffs behind, capped by the old castle of St. Elmo, are what the world has always thought^ — a dream of loveliness. Our travelers had heard before leaving Florence that Vesuvius was mak- ing marked demonstrations, and almost feared going to Naples at such a time ; but, in alluding to it behind the coachman, he laughed and said there were only a little ashes and a few cinders flying around at the time, and spoke quite con- temptuously of it for not doing better after so long a time. Thus one gets hardened to the pres- ence of danger from day to day. They were truly glad Vesuvius was on its good behavior, for they would have returned home another way, and missed the pleasant experience here, if it had not been. Like Eome, Naples has many beautiful *^ cen- terpieces," Marjorie called them — groups of statuary in the parks, in the piazzas, and in the fountains. The gates of the Royal Palace gar- den, which one passes often driving through the What Marjorie Saw Abroad 235 city, are beautifully adorned with the pieces called ^'The Horse Tamers." The park along the boulevard (Via Caracciolo) mentioned be- fore, and skirting the bay, begins in the neigh- borhood of the Grand Hotel (where the party stayed), and is luxuriant with palm trees, great big things which stay out of doors all the year 'round; elegant individual statues posing in every direction; a saddle-path, a carriage-way on either side ; foot-paths running devious ways, with much charming tropical-looking growth and a ^'centerpiece.'' The drives here leading into the heart of the city have piazzas adorned with groups and foun- tains that are wonderful by reason of their num- ber and size. Other drives lead through groves of immense fig trees, great stretches of olive trees, and the curious-looking cacti holding out their uncouth leaves like hands in every direc- tion, sometimes hanging over terraces and sit- ting in yards, and making themselves generally conspicuous, for they are very clumsy and gro- tesque. Catching fish seems to be quite a traffic on Via Caracciolo. Going along the sidewalk, Mar- jorie and the others noticed rough men fishing and attending to long nets for snaring fish. She had noticed small fish, broiled, were sometimes served at table in the Italian cities, which she considered very palatable, and supposed they were sardines. The printed bill-of-fare has such extraordinary names, especially those in a for- 236 JVhat Marjorie Saw Abroad eign tongue, one does not always know what one is eating. One has just a suspicion of what it may be. Pumpkin flowers are fried in olive oil, which the Princess thought delicious; young pump- kins, smaller than your fist, are cut up and pre- pared as a dainty, but they were not exactly to the party's taste. The market vendors display their vegetables in a very pretty manner. You see a little mule coming along with a great assortment on its back, and sticking out at the sides in great bas- kets, a man walking along behind. The ripe, yellow pumpkins are sliced and put here and there, mixed with greens; red and green pep- pers are laid showily together, the light salads between, and other vegetables mingled where they will look most inviting. Driving along through the city, the Countess wanted to know of Gionne what ''those things" were, hanging out of every window she saw, in nets. ''Oh, they are melons hung out there to ripen, and they are nice, ' ' he said. The people of Naples are very fond of melons. The onion boy, humble though he be, is worthy of description. His bare feet, which no doubt never know shoes, as shoes are not really needed here, are dark with the dust of ages ; his green trousers fit loosely, as though made for some one else; his white shirt, unbuttoned, discloses a yellow neck; the pink vest perhaps showing from a greenish-brown coat (also made for an- What Marjorie Saw Abroad 237 other, which the folds indicate) ; the tattered hat thrown back as he lifts his head to halloo '^Onions!" in Italian. The onions are plaited together so they show off to advantage, glisten- ing in the light like pearls in the rough, and slung over the arm and shoulder of this happy- looking ragamuffin. Another boy may have on brown trousers, a green vest showing white sleeves, a fancy kerchief around his neck, and a_green cap, with only an armful of onions. At the Grand Hotel the windows open to the floor onto a balcony outside with stout railing. The building goes around a glass-covered court, which forms the entrance hall, crowded with large palms, chairs, rugs, tables — all very beau- tiful and comfortable. Windows look down from inner rooms. In this great hall the tour- ists assemble for dinner, or sit afterward and listen to the string-band players, who invariably hand around a hat when they finish. The din- ing-room runs back of this from side to side. Some very swell turnouts pass in the after- noon over the carriage-way skirting the bay, and it is refreshing to sit outdoors on a bench in the little palm plot belonging to the hotel, and gar- nished with flowers, to watch them go by, or read and rest and chat about the day's adven- tures. The Aquarium, not far from the other end of the Park (called Villa Nationale), adjoining the Grand Hotel, is one of the most interesting and scientifically carried on in the world. The 238 What Marjorie Saw Abroad United States and all the European countries are interested in it. Scientists, attendants, yachts, boats, and all things necessary for its progress and usefulness are supplied for its management. It is in a covered building. Around the four walls and in the center are compart- ments with glass facings ; light let in from some part shows the different inhabitants of the seas, flirting about in clear water. The seaweed and coral in some are so artistically distributed they resemble miniature gardens with flowers and trees surrounding castles or villas. A tap on a glass shows wonders. What seems to be a white flower with long petals or leaves of a miniature palm tree will gradually draw itself in and dis- appear within the brown stem, which divulges the secret that the flower, or palm leaves, is an animal and the stem a piece of coral. A fish with a beautiful eye will turn his other side and you will find he belongs to a species which has only one. Where the corals grow is an interesting fea- ture, but Marjorie thought where they were made into things to wear was better. His Maj- esty procured her enough to last a lifetime, and she bought enough tortoise-shell combs to last her many years. One very light in color the storekeeper explained to her was very rare, be- cause it was made from the under part of a cer- tain kind of turtle. Marjorie took it for a Christmas present from his Majesty, though Christmas was very far off, and he knew from What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 239 former demonstrations another gift would be acceptable at that time. The Tomb of Virgil (died 19 B.C.) was a high climb, and his Majesty protested, also Gionne, the day was so warm. True, Gionne was not obliged to go up, but his egotism made him feel indispensible. But the ladies said they would never forgive themselves if they did not see Virgil's tomb. As they made the ascent, Gionne, who' left his horse to guide them, picked figs from the trees on the country patches bordering the walk, and Marjorie ate one from the tree overshadowing the tomb, plucking an olive branch from another tree, as well as ivy from the vault itself. They ambled down again, but not more lively than they went up — it was so steep. One of the side streets in Naples is so steep it has to be ascended by steps like the one men- tioned at Bellagio, and the whole street is a flight of broad steps. Flowers and merchandise of many. kinds are sold here. The windows of the bordering houses are adorned with flowered balconies. The week's washing hanging out in gay colors, and crowds of picturesque Italians moving about below, enliven the place. The drive to St. Elmo is a long, pleasant one, giving a fine view of the bay, winding around everything, it seemed, till one reached the top of the heights, giving a variety of scenes, rural and otherwise, in a comparatively short time. The trip to the Blue Grotto at the Isle of 240 What Marjorie Saw Abroad Capri is a long, rough one for those who are not partial to the sea, but it is "the thing to do.'' It takes the day, and most of it on the sea. So one bright morning our rovers left the hotel in a cab, driving past Castello dell' Ovo, or the Castle of an J^gg, because it was thought to be that shape, or was that shape at one time — the Italians have such vivid imaginations — to the wharf for Capri. The castle is quite conspic- uous, lying out in the sea on a sort of peninsula, and is a fortress or army station. They set off in skiffs, rowed by natives, which took them over a chopping sea, some distance, to a large boat or steamer anchored off the coast. While waiting for other passengers — for the party had arrived a little early — those already there were entertained by natives in bathing costumes, who must be akin to water nymphs, for they loitered around the ship nearly an hour, showing off their swimming feats and begging for coin. When one was thrown over- board in their direction all scrambled for it ; but one of them quickly settled the matter by diving at once in the right spot, and, grabbing it up between his toes, exhibited it by lifting the foot in the air, then dexterously whipping it out and chucking it in his cheek, which was his purse. One fellow had a cheekful, and almost another, when the boat started off. For some hours the boat heaved up and down on the water as it plunged along, passing some towns on the cliffs, Pompeii and Herculaneum What Marjorie Satv Abroad 241 among them. Capri is by no means as near to Naples as it seems. After much impatience from the travelers over the long, slow trip, the boat cast anchor again, and the passengers — two only in a skiff, which they got into by a ladder at the side of the big boat, went toward the precipitous shore and darted through a hole just large enough for the boat to slip into, with the passengers lying flat, or nearly so, on the bottom. The oarsman makes ready for this, throwing his oars in the bottom of the skiff as he approaches the entrance, and quickly catch- ing a chain running inside, draws the skiff in, after motioning to the other occupants when to lie down ; then he resumes the oars. His Majesty said he was afraid all the time the Countess would cry ''stop" when tliey reached the entrance, but she had gone too far over an uneven sea to turn back. She had no idea of it — the excitement of it was grand, she said. Within, there is an exquisite blue light, such as one sees in a glacier, only more beautiful. The cave is wide and long, and arched like a cathedral, somewhat. After paddling around in this weird, beautiful place, in which the water shimmers like silver if one picks it up, in which the light from one small entrance is reflected back and forth, hither and thither, from the ir- regularities, till it seems to have the moon in there, they returned to the ship. The boat ploughed along some more, and 242 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad finally reached land, or near by it, when the pas- sengers were again put off in little boats to go ashore and get lunch at a hotel literally hanging on the cliffs ; but it was very pretty and pleas- ant. As usual, vendors came around and pes- tered the tourists — while they were eating — into fidgets, begging them to buy cheap corals ; espe- cially a very foreign-looking woman with broad yellow rings as large as an American dollar hanging in her ears. His Majesty bought some of her ware to be rid of her. Then he finished his meal in peace. The Isle of Capri was once the favored spot of great people in the days of the emperors. Augustus and Tiberius loved it and did some- thing to improve it. It has so many qualifica- tions — the air, the height, the healthfulness have made it for many years a summer place for for- eigners as well as the home people. From Naples it is an hour's run on the steam- cars to Pompeii. On the way are tropical gar- dens, up hill and down dale, and old towns strag- gling along as though any of them might be a part of Jerusalem, they are so odd and quaint. Back of Portici, one of the towns on the road beyond Pompeii, is Resina, near which place the vineyards on Vesuvius flourish so wonderfully and furnish the material for the renowned La- crimss Christi wine. The trip up Vesuvius was deemed too hazar- dous by the party, who said they had satisfied their curiosity on that score by seeing it on the stage. CHxYPTER XVIII At new Pompeii there is only the station, Cook's office, and some hotels. A pleasant walk from the station one enters the city of ancient Pompeii. The broad way goes up a hill over a good road, between terraces bordered with flowers, shrubs and trees, so cheerful one never feels as if one were about to enter a dead city. Pretty, wide steps lead around the terraces, and there is no need of the chairs with which natives fol- low to the city door what they hope are weary travelers. Entering the ruins through this doorway (porta Marina), they found themselves not in darkness, nor artificial light, but broad day, for after going through a covered hall or two of the Museum there are no roofs. The whole is very pleasing, not to say cheerful, and one can walk for hours without abatedinterest,and there are many loose stones one can sit on to rest. There are remains of elegant homes, theaters, temples, fora, baths — hot and cold, with stone compartments in some for the bathers' clothes — and streets with deep wheel-ruts worn in the cobbled pavement. In the dwelling one enters 243 244 What Marjorie Saw Abroad a vestibule, then an open court with covered porch around it, which the bedrooms (tiny things) dining-room and kitchen surround. There are no windows, only little gratings at times. The rooms do not seem to have had doors, as there is no evidence of hinges or the like. Rich hangings must have been used, which would be quite in keeping with the lovely fres- coed walls in some. Mosaic floors still show their pristine beauty. Marjorie remembered one fresco, in a vestibule, of a boar fighting two dogs near a tree. There are marble pillars, some of them now broken off more or less, but still having an elegant air, around the spacious court containing statuary which even yet holds its own. The best has been taken away in some instances and replaced by copies. Eemains of narrow stairs indicate a second story. In some of the courts flowers are planted to show how the places might have appeared in their prime. Here there are fountains which have long ceased to flow, but one sees pipes which explain their presence showing through the broken walls, and there are deep round wells about a foot and a half in diameter, encircled by stone a foot or so high, to hold rain-water for daily use, perhaps. Here the family spent their time when at home. It was cheerful and light with its open roof, and what needed they with large sleeping apart- ments when they lived in the courts and could bathe at public baths, though respectable ma- What Marjorie Saw Abroad 245 irons did not use the public baths. No doubt there were private ones to gratify the exclusive. Marjorie was so pleased with the courts she wanted his Majesty to build their home over again, around a court ; but he said courts were for very warm climates, according to his notion, and for those who had no glass to furnish win- dows to their rooms, and who lived in such dan- gerous times that no windows were safest. Glass was known, but not generally used for windows. Some of the houses have the names of the own- ers on them, and some of the streets have the name and number at the corner; trees grow in the squares, and it seems very pathetic to view a lovely garden and verdure with only ruins about. Marjorie read ^'The house of Cornelia Eu- f us ' ' on the outside of one door entered directly from the street; also '^Casa del Poeta Tragico" (house of tragic poet) on another. The latter is said to be the house of Glaucus, the hero of ^'The Last Days of Pompeii.'' Domus vetiorum is perhaps the handsomest place. The frescoes are very well preserved and truly interesting — Cupids doing everything un- der the sun. The flowers grow; the fountains are adorned with figures; the fluted pillared court is here ; the walls around the open rooms giving out that rich, oriental cast evolved from the happy mingling of terra-cotta and delicate blues or grays. Vases, statues and household 246 What Marjorie Saw Abroad arrang-ements tell the fasliion of that day. A tiny kitchen showing a marble biscuit board and bake-oven appears somewhere, and grinding mills of stone, with large oven, indicate a bak- ery in another street; a number of large, flat stone jars, presumably for oil or water, are still seen, some imbedded in earth in a little square room just where they were, perhaps, when the great calamity overtook the city. There are no gardens in front of the houses, only a door in a wall leading from a narrow sidewalk. Some- times a small, low pair of steps give access to the door. The court supplies the garden and living-room. The theaters indicate the taste of the day, one holding about fifteen hundred, the other over three times as many — the seats of stone going around in a sort of amphitheater and well tiered, which precludes the idea of ladies having to appear bareheaded. Near the two is a pillared gallery, not unlike that at the Colosseum, but, of course, much smaller, and supposedly for the gladiators' use. There are chambers for priests and altars for sacrificing in the enclosure, where it was supposed by the believing there was an oracle — the guide said — in the Temple of Isis (wife of Osiris, an E^p- tion god) , which temple has a little figure of the goddess in a niche on one side, and Venus in a niche on the other side. The first recalled to Marjorie the beautiful song of W. H. Lytle, in her grandmother's music book, which tells so much history between the lines, so much of tho What Marjorie Satv Abroad 247 heart's longing — Antony's last words to Cleo- patra : ''I am dying, Egypt, dying! Isis and Osiris guard thee — Cleopatra, Rome, farewell!" She sees Cleopatra coming down the Cydnus, a small river in Asia Minor, to meet Antony, who has sent her a message, in the haughtiness of his military prowess, to render an account of herself, which she answers in person. In her barge she comes, in royal attire, her diaphanous, clinging robes displaying her lithe and queenly form; the crown has no jewel more dazzhng than her eye ; the voluptuous mouth softens the aquiline nose ; the broad head is toned by a brow of that intellectual type which gives a rare and lofty stamp to any countenance ; the wavy hair lends lightness to the strength ; long lashes veil the eyes and screen the sparkling fury of their depths. She is past thirty, but this fact all the more assures her charm. Down the Cydnus, with maidens seemingly afloat and garlands in their hands, she seated in the luxury of the day, while other maidens hold the fan of peacock feathers to cool this sorceress of the Nile, or vshield her from the sun. Gorgeous attendants follow. Rep- artee comes gaily from the merry lips, and Antony forgets Rome, Fulvia and home for many moons. For political reasons he returns and marries Octavia. He divorces Octavia, The 248 What Marjorie Saw Abroad battle of Actium takes place in or near the Adri- atic, 31 B.C., between himself and Egypt ^s Queen on one side and Octavius (later Augnstns Caesar) on the other. She, getting frightened as the battle rages, flees; he follows through mistaken command. After meeting again for a time other vicissitudes follow; he hears she is dead and falls on his sword. Then she makes 'way with herself to avoid enriching Caesar's triumph. Antony evidently expects her to lighten the way for him in hades ; and even if Jove or Osiris command, he wishes not to leave her, such is her influence; she loves him, he thinks, which is more than all the gods can give. ^^Ah," thought Marjorie, with a sigh, ^4f they both had lived later and met earlier, and only known the Christ! Perhaps they know Him now; perhaps He pities and forgives. It is hard for poor, blind humanity to know the way, and love seems the onli/ way to unbridled natures like Antony's and hers." With what were called temples around it, the ruined Forum at Pompeii stands. Apart from it the triangular-shaped Forum has only pillars remaining, and stone lying around, but there is an imposing air, as of former grandeur, in both, and many thoughts come rushing through the brain of an intelligent man or woman concern- ing these unfortunate inhabitants. As to the public baths, they testify to the cleanliness of the people^ being of considerable size, some of the rooms having double walls, What Marjorie Satv Abroad 249 into which hot water was let for a steam bath, which usually began the process of cleansing; afterward, hot water, then a plunge in cold, very much like what is now commonly called a Turkish bath. It is hard to imagine the effect of such a bath on one taken every day, though some took them often. These baths were as handsome as the homes, the mosaic floors bear- ing witness to some very pretty work, as well as mural decorations. The new baths (not com- pleted in 79 A.D., when the eruption of Vesuvius destroyed the city) were to have had windows. Strange to relate, the street or road outside the Herculaneum gate, which led to the city, and called the Street of the Tombs, is very charm- The cobbled streets, the curbstones on the sidewalk, with light-green turf or moss peeping through the joinings ; the ruined tombs still re- taining artistic contours and shades; the slen- der trees towering up here and there — it seems a place to live, a place to breathe, to feast the eyes ; not for long- forgotten, doubly dead, inas- much as there are none left to mourn except in charity — not for departed souls alone to wan- der, and it was a happy day when these beauties were laid bare to the living world. In several rooms, arranged for the purpose, at the door of the doomed city, are glass cases showing many articles found during the excava- tions — among them petrified people, a dog, a few eggs, and other edibles in good shape, Thes 250 What Marjorie Saw Abroad ampliitlieater is some distance from tlie town proper and could hold twenty thousand people. Excavations began formally at Pompeii in about 1755, and received considerable impetus from the French in 1806. They have been grad- ually going on until quite one-half is uncovered, and excavation is still in progress. It was a prosperous city of about twenty-five thousand inhabitants, and was known three hundred years before the Christian era, but its walls and hand- some ruins of a Greek temple in Doric style of the sixth century B.C. give signs of earlier date. The inhabitants had much of the Greek element, having sprung from a tribe called Oscans — the first settlers. This element was soon Eoman- ized when that nation began to absorb others, and it among them. The city was two miles in circumference and was surrounded by a wall. Towers seem to have been added after the wall was built. It seems to have been a place of villas for the rich from larger cities. Cicero (born 106 B.C.) men- tions his villa in his letters. The business part of the city is denoted by stores, which have nice residences immediately behind them — as the Germans often do in the United States — though it is not known that the stores belonged to the houses; they are not connected in many in- stances. Some had stairs leading to rooms above, and it is thought the man who owned the house at the back took this means of disposin^^ of his produce, with the keeper ^bove. What Marjorie Saw Abroad 251 Marjorie thoiight the narrow stairs leading to the second floor in the homes must have been for "Bettie of the back stairs,'' and that the servants had their apartments above, which is probably true, as the excavations show that they were not by any means as well built as the rest of the edifice. The houses were seldom three stories, and were hastily built after the earth- quake in 63 A.D. His Majesty remarked that the large stepping-stones, though useful in rainy weather, must have been awkward for the pass- ing vehicles, the wheels of which he saw had made deep ruts in the cobbles. Many of the frescoes on the walls and portals show the need of the stern hand of Christian piety. The valuable Pompeiian and Hercula- neum antiquities are in the Museum in Naples, which every tourist can enter. More history has been given to the world by this sudden and peculiar destruction of the two cities than could ever have been gotten in any other way; and after one has been to either, though Pompeii has been more explored, one enjoys the more seeing these relics. It is a pity they cannot all be kept there, then one would feel indeed as if one had been face to face with 79 A.D. Returning to Naples, the party remained long enough to visit the Museum, which has the finest collection in the world, and the theater of San Carlos, founded in 1737 — the largest in Italy. 252 What Marjorie Saw Abroad The last evening in Italy they did not think the earth conld be so fair. The full moon had risen over Vesuvius ; the sun was setting oppo- site in a billow of glory, tinging the wealth of clouds hanging around the peak with gold, ame- thyst and Naples coral — all reflected in the calm sapphire waters, with the glow as of concealed lights beneath; Capri's rugged blue heights plainly visible in the radiant light, as well as the coast along the bay ; the blush on the clouds as sweet o'er the water as rose petals in the dew; and the ocean's distant wave; the yellow villas with pink or red ones intermingled on the shore, and the hills beyond, set in evergreen; St. Elmo and Castello dell' Ovo showing con- spicuously their stern outlines, the one above, the other below. '^Farewell, beautiful Italy, farewell," said Marjorie, as she kissed her hand to the receding shore. ^^ Peace be within thy walls and plen- teousness in thy palaces !" The Princess was to remain in Italy for the w^inter, with some friends, and begged Marjorie to remain with her ; but, while the idea was de- lightful, she felt that the best part of her world would not be with her. She left reluctantly, however, and wished his Majesty and the Count- ess would stay; but he said he wanted to return and see how his business was getting on. The Countess said she wondered if her house was still standing, and thought she had better follow Ms Majesty, which was but natural. What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 253 Starting one evening, the sea was very rough by next day, and continued so for about twelve hours, in which time some of the passengers were laid low with mal de mer. In a day or so all were well again and were up early to see Gibraltar. They had seen the lighthouse on the Isle of Sardinia in passing; now Spain loomed up in turn, to keep them en rapport with the world, and they did not feel so much adrift. Our tourists wanted to stop at least two weeks in Spain, but Cook's office informed them that the rush for staterooms was so great it could not guarantee them berths unless they had two fares each from Naples to Gibraltar. They were sorry they had not gone there by rail from Paris. Ships leave every two weeks, and are smaller than those on the northern line, and one has to pick and choose more than on the upper lines, in order to be comparatively comfortable. From Gibraltar a nice trip can be taken to the Alham- bra in a few days, and one over to Morocco in the same length of time, and leave a margin for other places and catch the next ship without paying two fares, if not too late in the season. Much to his Majesty's surprise — the others had not thought much about it — Gibraltar turned her lower side toward Africa, the ocean and the Mediterranean. The great rock that we all know so well from the picture is at the other end, and in an extensive circular bay and facing Spain. 254 What Marjorie Saw Abroad It is pierced all over with holes for cannon, and the way leading to them is tunneled out of the rock. Only think of the work! The place has indeed a martial air. The passengers were at liberty to spend the greater part of the day on shore, the ship stand- ing in the harbor for hours. Our set of excur- sionists drove over the city, got Spanish lace, Spanish fans, and great baskets (with long han- dles they could swing over the arm and carry easily) filled with pomegranates, oranges and Malaga grapes. Marjorie remembered the game she used to play, ' ' Malaga grapes are very good grapes, but grapes from Smyrna are bet- ter.'^ She looked at the long, wide, luscious bunches, and wondered how they could be better as she fell to eating them. The city is very precipitous, and very foreign, but the many English signs over stores and ho- tels make one feel at home, in a measure. The Moors hovered around, their dark skins, flowing or loose garments, and white turbans, wringing wet around their craniums — Marjorie said to keep them cool, she supposed — ^harmonizing with one's idea of the native inhabitants. It was pretty warm, and the large Spanish fans came in play. The vendors clung to the tender which carried the passengers back to the ship to the last min- ute, and when the ship was reached a man was found up there selling a variety of useless trumpery, which those who did not get off What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 255 bought as souvenirs. Our tourists concluded, however, they had enough. Leaving Gibraltar, the coast of Spain and Africa were clearly visible for several hours. It was like running between the banks of a wide river — Africa high and rocky, Spain the same. About this time the moon was rising, early enough for one to see its beauty without actually sitting up for it. The lines ^'Soft o'er the fountain lingering falls the southern moon. Far o'er the mountain breaks the day, too soon,'' truly applied here. Let the fountain be the southern waters, a vast expanse of them; let the mountains be the billows following one another in long, broken lengths, touched by the moon's softening, sil- very rays — sleep flees from one ; strange scenes flit by in open-eyed dreams; Spanish men and women '^witli dark eyes splendor" people the laughing glades ; the orange and the myrtle, in luxuriant growth, throw out a delicious, subtle presence ; one ascends the heights ; the turbaned Moors take their characteristic shape ; the earth seems like a song of delight ; the moon not only lingers, it hovers, it embraces, it clings, it breathes a magnetic glow. At last the Alham- bra looms in sight; the Pomegranate Gate is reached ; the marble flowers smile upon one ; the 256 What Marjorie Saw Abroad grinning fruit showing its pretty teeth, telling the tale that it is ready to pluck. One enters the walled and towered enclosure; one hears the nightingale's song, the fountains' purling drops, sees their shimmer; then the pillars of Charles V appear; the Gate of Judgment; the Watch Tower, on which the Christian flag was raised in 1492. One sees Granada far below, with its hundred churches ; looking up, white houses on the cliffs set with emerald shrubbery; the palace of Charles V, in Eenaissance style, in ruins al- most; beyond, the Moorish palace, the subject of so much that is beautiful from the pen of gifted authors. Unpretentious without, by way of contrast to the interior — after a fashion of their own — the inner part is a feast for the eye and for the soul. Eed, blue and yellow are artistically, delicately and harmoniously combined; marble columns, embellished ceilings, golden partitions (fragile- looking and gracefully curved), silken hangings, soft couches — all for the Caliph of Granada. The Lyon Court is paved with colored marble; the columns are white^ — over one hundred in number — a pavilion at either end, with open- work screens, domed, and handsomely adorned. In the center is the fountain basin upheld by twelve strong lions in white marble, the water shooting up through their mouths. AH too soon the day breaks over the mountains in the form of the steward, putting away the rugs and pil- lows for the night. One retires with a sigh. What Marjorie Saw Abroad 257 In a few days the Azores were reached — all rocky and rough. One clear evening they saw the sun set on the ocean. When it goes nearly do^\ai the great flaming ball drops suddenly in the water as though it had been shot out of a cannon. About sunset, if there are any clouds, they are rich in the extreme: first gold, then amethyst, then crimson; changing from what seems to be a golden stairs to a garden of trees, lakes and shrubbery, in a flood of yellow day- light, to the purple haze of twilight, where some white light still lingers, then as though the whole had caught fire, or ignited simultaneously at dif- ferent places, from a flame-like torch of nature, until one-half the globe is enveloped in vast zig- zags, or streams of gorgeous red, curling up- ward in spirals till they almost meet in the zenith. Leaving the Azores a storm came up; high waves dashed from one end to the other of the staunch little ship, which went sailing along, determined to make time. It heaved and rocked and groaned; all the passengers were ill, even the fourteen physicians on board. Marjorie said she felt as if a big giant had her in a sling and was twirling her round and round his head for fun. The ring — the amethyst ring, the birthday ring — it was a fraud; no more would she wear it ; plain little thing it was, when she had a lovely diamond she might have worn in its place instead. No more amethysts for her ! She would not believe in birthday rings unless 258 What Marjorie Saw Abroad they were rubies, diamonds and emeralds. She had no fear — ^none but disgust at being so ill. It was as much as the stewardesses could do to attend to every one. There were three of these, being nice German women who spoke English. The mighty power of the turbulent ocean is un- knoAvn till one feels it. The steamer trunks, the valises, the hand-bags waltzed all over the little rooms; small articles rattled in their stands; the doors banged; the water sprayed through the portholes until the man came along and made them all secure, and one had to hold on to the bed railing to keep from being shaken like pepper in a pepper-pot. Landing in New York at the appointed time, the party, less the Princess, did not by any means escape the custom-house officers. They had to pay heavy toll before passing through the exit gate. The duty on dresses was not much, but that on small trinkets and trifles seemed exorbitant. The Countess said they could easily have done away with the duty on the dresses, for they were made in Paris in the early part of the tour, and could have been half worn out by the time they took the ship at Na- ples ; but they had heard that one was allowed so much, and his Majesty said keep them fresh and pretty for home and he would willingly pay the little extra. And as to the jewelry, the party had been wearing this for some time, having gotten it all along and dressing liandsomely in the evenings. What Marjorie Sato Abroad 259 The Countess was sorry she had not thrown the pretty boxes into the ocean, which told the tale. These she thought they must have charged for. Next time she said she would. The Countess did not wish to cheat the Government; she was willing to pay for the dresses because she had not worn them, but the exorbitant price paid for the privilege of wearing a few foreign trin- kets she thought outrageous, and it made her bitter for once. His Majesty in his inherent pride, which Mar- jorie confessed later she thought ^'overdone'' at the time, was too great for remonstrance, and Uncle Sam pocketed what she considered ill- gotten gains. As to the Countess, she made it a point never to hurt what she called ^^his noble characteris- tics ' ' — it was too much like stealing a treasure, or breaking a charm from a handsome ornament and marring the whole to get an atom. Abroad one goes from one country to another without the slightest trouble in regard to duty, which the Countess took the pains to inform what she considered her persecutors, and Mar- jorie thought they must be so sore from her bright sarcasms, she pitied the families they had to go home to in that frame of mind — ^but she thought the men deserved it. Americans seem to be at par in Europe. So much is done for their comfort and pleasure, no wonder they like to go there ; and to be squeezed 260 What Marjorie Saw Abroad legitimately by one's own country was disgust- ing, the Countess said. The party read in an English periodical that the American people had shown its superiority to themselves (the English) in taking their trade away from them, then going over and showing their capitalists what they had failed to show their own people. The Countess thought the English could teach Americans politeness. As to scenery, nothing with us is quite as high as the Swiss Alps ; but they seem squeezed up, so to speak, in a smaller space, and there is no one entire snow-covered mountain set apart like Shasta, in Washington State; no very great streams rushing past; no such great stretches of country — the vastness of it by contrast is as great as the height in the old country. In modesty, progress and home comforts the United States is superior, according to our trav- elers ' way of thinking. They did not taste hot biscuit once during their European travels, which seems a small matter ; but, if you stop to think of it, a good hot biscuit (which a Southern darky makes best), with butter, and a really fresh cup of fine gunpowder tea (which they could not find in their travels) tones up the system for the time and helps to make one comfortable, which is next door to amiability and cheerful- ness — instead of strong black tea and rolls so hard you almost tear your nails trying to break them apart. What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 261 But these privations do not count in compari- son to the wonders one sees, as long as one does not have- to live there always and spend a life without these little comforts which some bright person has said contribute greatly to one's en- joyment of life. The old country fills us with awe when we know the age of things ; when one sees ancient names and articles made somewhere nearer the time of Adam than one's own, and on some of which time has laid a gentle hand. The history, the preservation of it all, makes one rejoice for having been among them; but for whole life, real life, for freedom and all life holds dear, his Majesty said give him America every time. He told the foreigners whom he met so much about America, all he talked to were burning to come over. When the party reached home, strange to say, in that intelligent and appreciative community, they were a several months ' wonder. They said his Majesty and the Countess looked ten years younger and that Marjorie had grown taller and more womanly. She had crossed the line where the ^^ brook and river meet.'' Marjorie had a stream of friends of her own age all the visiting hours of the day coming to look at her ^Hruck," as she called her foreign things, and not one was forgotten in the way of souvenirs as long as there was one left. She possibly inherited her love of giving from his 262 What Marjorie Saw Abroad Majesty. He came in at times and said: ^^ Mar- jorie, where is such and such a thing! I bought it for Henry. ' ' ^^Why, I asked you to buy that for me, and I thought it was mine," returned she. Every day something like this went on for a month, until all the gifts were used up and encroach- ments were made on the reserve fund. Marjorie did not have near as many as she wanted — some old ladies that she loved, her dressmaker, and her milliner ought to have one. The Countess made a few handsome gifts, and said she had much ado keeping his Majesty and Marjorie from disposing of everything new. The pictures the Countess gathered made quite a volume, and every literary club in the town sought information from them. She got her pictures so scattered she did not know what she had and what she had not. However, they were all her friends, and by the time she was ready to look at them herself, and had the lei- sure to think a little over what she had seen, they gradually came in. She found the house all dusty, after so many months' absence, and boarded while she super- intended the cleaning and until it was habitable. No sooner had she done this than the genius of the town came every day to get items to write up the trip. Altogether it was a very delightful trip, awak- ening the whole community and inspiring others to do likewise. What Marjorie Satv Abroad 263 Mr. Duke had persuaded Ealph to show him around over the same ground he and Peter had been, so it was some months before their return to the United States. He said he wanted to go to Ireland again and ^ up that cousin a little better. Ealph had never said a word of love to Mar- jorie ; but he kneiv and she knew that he hoped. He had tried many times to tell his love, but in vain. He was afraid of the fatal word "no," and he was happy as they were ; at least, as much so as was allowable in consideration of his duty to his father — after that, we will not say what he hoped. In the spring came Mr. Duke and Ealph. Peter sent word he would be along later. At Naples Ealph had given his picture to Marjorie in a pretty bangle, and had asked her to wear it and not to forget him, rushing off without giving time for an answer, and at such a time when he would have to return only to bid a formal good-by. Ealph was by no means a bashful person; but Marjorie dazzled him — she restrained him in the doubt of so much loveli- ness ever becoming his very own. Mr. Duke was a great letter-writer, and cor- responded with his Majesty in the meantime. It was a hearty welcome which he and Ealph received on the threshold of ** Villa Colom- bo," which Marjorie, in a mirthful vein, had recently named the suburban home, in remem- brance of the pigeons in Venice — ^which also 264 What Marjorie Saw Abroad infested her home — and after the fashion of homes in Italy. Up to this time the Princess's letters were full of Prince Leonori, and the family were gradually brought up to that pitch in which there was no surprise when she announced her coming marriage and sent the invitations. Mr. Duke sent the diamond necklace. Getting it out to make a neat package of it, he turned to Ealph and said : ' ' I told you so, ' ' holding the necklace up for him to see; ^^but I'll get the Duchess" — ^mean- ing Marjorie — ^^a handsomer one." No doubt the turquoises and corals will be in Marjorie 's keeping, too, in the course of time, though Marjorie already has more than enough. THE END W @5 .^^ W-* /\. \^K'° -&^% '°Ww^^ j'^s. ''•% WtRT . ,^ II ^ V ^ BOOKBINDINC | ^ -w^ Crantville, ra h ^ JULY AUG 1989 "