<> ''TV. •0* ♦ *^>?^\o^" V'--\<^ ^<.'-^?^'> V'-- -^^0^ c" • -oV" ^'- "^r. C-^ •*U-o< .^^ .Ho*. ?»* -»^^ ""^^ ' o"* .-'A!*, "^C <> *'t: C" ♦ . . * A cO\« ■{►^ . r^ °^ * • . ' a" ^i v*» ' • • • ^w ^^ ,<°*, '*bv^ •^^0^ ^ -ov*^ '^ ..." A <\, *'': *''" .V ••■^••- ''- /^^-X y..:^k-X ./^<^:>o^ / .•^•-'■^•. i~ . ■> • " ■^- -.., 0' \**Trj-\/^ V''^^*"/' ^"V^'^V'^ %"• <» *-'TVi' ,G //A^^'**°^ ,,^^\cO,-.,.- *'T: ■•"• V* c' .0 -^■^ "^. ^°-^^ 'h. » ^°"^^. V <> *-'7V < ^ s • " *■ ^^-^.^^ • -^^ <^ *A rum m ..*J>v^^ l^^ltorkrOSf ^ bO'i'^ FOREWORD CONSIDERED solely as a thoroughfare of the present time, the route mapped and described in these pages would be one of the most important and inter- esting in the United States. But that is only the visible framework of our subject. If the principal events of American history, east of the Ohio river, were to be reproduced as a system of moving pictures, localities along the Lincoln High- way in Pennsylvania would, perhaps with surprising frequency, form a background for them. For more than a century and a half, the Philadelphia-Pittsburgh route, in part or as a whole, has been a vital factor in the life and progress of the colony and the state. Dur- ing much of that time, it was a channel for the "westward movement," probabh' equal in the aggregate to that of the National Road (Baltimore-Hagerstown-Cumberland-Un- iontown-Wheeling). Over these two pre-eminent highways of the olden time, the most important settlements between the Ohio and Mississippi rivers were made before the present northern route through New York State was opened up from the Mohawk river to Lake Erie. Within recent years, somewhat through the development of extensive central-western and transcontinental connections, this Pennsylvania main-line has come into greater national prominence; and the name by which it is now^ generally known applies from the Atlantic to the Pacific. But no other one section compares with this for historic associ- ations. There is a seeming echo of "far away and long ago" in the names of the Santa Fe and Oregon trails of the far west; but as thoroughfares for travel, emigration and commerce, they belong to a much later era. Three points on this route, or the events they represent or recall, are of transcendent importance, in the sense that they have influenced all subsequent history on this conti- nent. In chronological order these are, (1) Pittsburgh, where in 1758, toward the close of the Old French War, British sovereignty, whose supremecy had not yet been challenged in the seaboard colonies, dislodged the French power, thereby changing the political status of the Ohio River valley, and facilitating immigration into the territory now com- prising our cental-western States; (2) Philadelphia, the largest and most influential com- munity of the Revolutionary period, and possessing, in Independence Hall, our one great- est national landmark; and (3) Gettysburg, scene of the culminating movement of op- posing forces in the War of 1861-'65. Lancaster and York are almost — but perhaps not quite — within that remarkable circle of supreme events. No other road equals this one for visible evidence or memories of the determining conflicts in American history. This through route also exemplifies the evolution of transportation, from Indian path to pack-horse trail, crude freight-wagon road, stage-coach turnpike, railroad and modern highway, probably better than any other single thoroughfare in the country to- day. In fact, the condition and character ot the route at different periods are best in- dexed by the transportation facilities which served it at the time. Considerable attention has been paid throughout this work to topography, by the aid of which the subject unfolds in natural and logical order; and the traveler is assisted in correctly placing the historical references. The successive maps also provide a moving index for the route, with the single drawback that in traveling from east to west, the maps are necessarily read from right to left, opposite to the w^ay of reading the lines of type. Places are given their correct names at the time to which the references apply; for ex- ample, the confluence of the Allegheny and Monongahela rivers was prior to 1754 the "Forks of the Ohio," thence up to November 1758, Fort DuQuesne, and after that Fort Pitt, or Pittsburgh. Until after the French and Indian War and the disturbances fol- lowing it. the present Bedford and Ligonier were known mainly as "forts," with those names added to identify them. Harrisburg was "Harris' Ferry," and Wrightsville-Co- lumbia was "Wright's Ferry," for much of the time the Susquehanna river crossings were on the old frontier. Fortunately, the former names have been so nearly preserved in the SEP 13 1920 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania present ones that the slight changLS in orthography do not obscure the references to these and other localities. My obligations for courtesies extended and co-operation received are so many that suitable acknowledgments are difficult. For 27 months, the original version of this sub- ject appeared in preliminary form as a serial in Motor Travel, the magazine of the Auto- mobile Club of America, New York City, during all of which time, Mr. John T. R. Gren. .Managing Editor, gave to it his very best attention and care. 1 he Historical Society of Pennsylvania and the Franklin Institute, both of Philadelphia, anil the libraries of that city, have several times opened their archives freely to me. Miss Luc\- A. Sampson, of Berwyn, not only took most of the photographs between Philadelphia and Lancaster, but has assisted greatly in securing and arranging the detail along that section. Most of the maps were originally made for this work by a first-class professional draftsman, but without personal acquaintance with the territory traversed. In the pro- cess of the work, and in preparation for publication, practically all of them were thor- oughly revised by Mr. C. H. Dietrick, in the office of .A. A. Taltavall, Assistant Engineer Pennsylvania R. R., Philadelphia, who also made the map showing ways out of Phila- delphia and the special one of the side-trip to Braddock's Field. Hon. Charles I. Landis, of Lancaster, President Judge of the Second Judicial District of Pennsylvania, has supplied many items of almost indispensable information, and favored me with a long and interesting correspondence. Rev. Dr. George P. Donehoo, of Coudersport, Secretary of the Pennsylvania Historical Commission, has always been ready with valuable counsel. Col. John P. Nicholson, Chairman, and Col. E. B. Cope, Engineer, of the Gettysburg National Park Commission, and .Mr. Wni. C. Storrick, Forester, have given much valuable assistance in the Gettysburg section. Hon. William Wayne, Paoli, Mr. Joseph Beale, Coatesville, Mr. (Jeorge R. Prowell, >()rk, Mr. George S. Hummer, New Oxford, Mr. W. A. Culbertson. Chambersburg, Mr. E. Howard Blackburn, Bedford, John N. Boucher, Esq., Greensburg, and Mr. J. Walter Miles, Irwin, have made valuable contributions to the structure of the work, as well as supplying details. I have been in frequent correspondence with Mr. Paul C. Wolff, Secretary of the Pennsylvania Motor Federation and the .Automobile Club of Pittsburgh, on points relating to that city and western Pennsylvania generally. May 1, 1920. k. B. /• L. A/. ( r.urv , Bcdjord rilAE3, to deliver the "Gettysburg Ad- rcss" 7 dr marble, on the general lines of the Parthenon at Athens. When completed in 1824, at a cost of ahoiit 5^500,000, it was hy far the most pretentious building of the kind in the country. This was the home of the second United States Mank, a storm-center of finance and politics during the administration of Andrew Jackson, who withdrew all government deposits from it in 1S33. Just ahead, on the left-hand or south side of Chestnut St., extending the full width of the square from 5th to 6th St.. is the most notable row of historic structures in America. On the south- west corner (not shown on diagram) is the build- ing in which the Supreme Court of the United States first met; a tablet on the west side states that its sessions here were presided over b\' Chief Justices John Jay, John Rutledge and Oliver Klls- worth. It was constructed in 1791, in the hope and expectation that Philadelphia would be the permanent national capital. For many years after the removal of the Supreme Court to Wash- ington, it was the City Hall; it is now Pennsyl- vania G. A. R. headquarters. Indei'endknck Hall, Home ok the Liberty Bell The clima.x of interest i.": reached at Independ- ence Hall, a most dignified, roomy central buiUl- ing, with east and west wings, used principally tor the display of carefully selected and authentic relics of colonial and revolutionary times. No description seems ever to do it justice, probably because neither text nor pictures are able to conve\' the incomparable atmosphere of the place. Within its spell the romance and philosophy of Aiiurican history acquire broader and deeper meanings. For the present purpose, as for the usual brief visit, a few of the essential facts must suffice. io the left of the entrance is the Declaration Chamber, the most celebrated room in the west- ern world. Here the Continental Congress held its sessions from M;iy 10, 1775, to the close of the Revolution, except during the occupation of Phil- ailelphia b\- the British army in 1777-7S. In this room, on June 16, 1775, (Jeorge Washington ac- cepted the appointment of CJeneral and Comman- der-in-Chief of the American forces. Here on July 4, 1776, the Declaration of Inde- pendence was signed; and on June 14, 1777, the Continental Congress adopted the Stars and Stripes as the National ensign. On July 9, 1778, the Articles of Confederation were ratified; and on September 17, 1787, the Constitution of the United States was adopted. About opposite the main entr;mce, but toward the south side of the building, is the Liberty Bell, still h;inging from the original beam, the whole surrounded by a protecting frame and closely guarded. It was cast in Kngland in 1752 ;ind shipped to the Colony of Pennsyl\;ini:i in the f;ill of that Near for use as the State House bell. \\ bile being hung to try the sound, it was cracked by a stroke of the clapper, and was recast ;it the Philadelphia foundry of Pass & Stow in 1753. At noon, July 8, 1776, when the Declaration of Independence was publicly read in Independence The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Square (just south of the Hall), the bell literally proclaimed "liberty throughout the land." Dur- ing the occupation of Philadelphia by the British, it was removed to Allentown for safe-keeping; then brought back and replaced in the steeple until 1781, when it was lowered and rehung in the main building. It rang out the glad news of the surrender of Cornwallis in the autumn of 1781, proclaimed the treaty of peace in 1783, sounded the alarms of war in 1812, and led the celebration over renewed peace in 1815. It expressed the great sorrow of the new nation at the death of Washington in 1799, welcomed Lafayette to Independence Hall upon his return to the United States in 1824, and in 1826 helped celebrate the 5()th anniversary of the Republic. It tolled for Thomas Jefferson and John Adams, for Charles Carroll, of Carrollton. last surviving signer of the Declaration, and for Lafayette. On July 8, 1835, the anniversary of the proclamation of independence, as the funeral cortege for Chief Justice Marshall was passing along Chestnut St., starting toward Richmond, the tolling parted one side of the bell; and it followed the great "ex- pounder of the Constitution" into silence. Since then, with the exception of a few notable trips, the last to the Panama-Pacific Exposition, San Francisco 1915, it has been on display here. A bronze plate set into the payement in front of about the center of the Hall, reads: Abraham Lincoln stood here when he raised the flag on independence Hall, February 22, 1861. The president-elect had recently come to Phil- adelphia through Cleveland, Buffalo, Albany and New York City, making a few important stops on the way to Washington for the first inaugura- tion. He was escorted to the platform and the flag cord placed in his hands. It was a thrilling sight to see the national ensign rise to the top of the staff, as he said later in describing the event, "floating gloriously to the wind in the bright glowing sunshine of the morning." Almost immediately after the ceremonies he left for the reception arranged to follow at the State Capitol, Harrisburg. Instead of continu- Pholo hy Rau, Pbiladelpbia INDEPENDENCE HALL, SOUTH SIDE OF CHESTNUT ST., BETWEEN 5th AND oth STREETS, PHILADELPHIA Begun in 172Q, and completed in 1734, .is State House for the Colony of Pennsylvania. "Cradle of the Republic." and ho Liberty bell. "Proclaim Liberty throughout the Land, and to all the People thereof." Most historic edifice in North home of the , . _ _^ _^. . . -- --- - --th America; English colonial style. The wings at either end of the main building are museums; beyond the farther wing is Congress Hall, meet- ing place of the first Continental Congress. The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Pboto by Jcnninns, Pbiladcljibia TM'ICAL VIEW OF MODERN DOWN lOVV N I'l 1 1 1 ADLM'l II A LodkinK west iilonp Chestnut St. from 0th St., four squares up from Independence Hall. On the ^i^^ht Is tht of the Post Olllee; ahead nearly solid rows of business structures reach Ijeyond South Broad St. outh end in^ the journey that night from HarrishiiiK through \'ork and Haltimore, as first planned, the president's special was brought back to Phil- adelphia, making connection with the regular night train, which arrived at Washington early the next morning. The celebrated painting by J. L. G. Ferris, commemorating that event, in Congress Hall, the next building on our itinerary, is worth looking up while this tablet and the sig- nificance of Independtnce Hall are fresh in niiiul. On July 4. lS7(i. Richard 1 lenry Lee, of N'irginia, grandson of the revolurionaiT patriot of the same name, read the Declaration from a platform over- looking Independence Square, in the presence of a distinguished company and a very large crowd. Ihis was the culminating feature in the anniver- sary celebrations of the most historic day in the Centennial program. \N'e may perhaps find special significance in the fact that a Virginian was chosen to read this document only about 1532 vears after President Lincoln raised the Hag over Independence Hall, as the storm-clouds of the war between the States were gathering, and less than 11 '4 years after Appomattox. From the south side, either of the Hall itself or the museums in the wings, views of Independence Stiuare — known in colonial times as the "State House yard"- extend through to Walnut St. Its open spaces were sometimes a camping ground for Indian delegations visiting Philadelphia to discuss treaties, or on other business; and were also used, like Boston Conimon 111 the olden da\s. for public assemblies. In fact, the south side of the row of buildings from Mh to 6th St. was once at least as important as the north side, fronting on Chestnut St. A great crowd gathered there in April, 1775. upon receipt of momentous news from Lexington and Concord; and on July 8. 1776, the Declara- tion was first publicly read to thousands of eager listeners assembled in the same place. The King's arms were taken down from the court room and burned, while the feelings of the populace found exiiression in bonfires, discharges ot cannon, ringing of bells ;ind repeated shouts. "Independ- ence Hall." a later name, was derived from the events of 1776; and the same prefix was naturally given to the Scuiare. Congress Hall, the last of the Chestnut St. group of landmarks, occupies the southeast cor- ner ;it 6th St. Here the first House of Repre- sentatives and first Senate of the United States held their sessions. In this building. Washington \\;is inaugur;ited for his seconil term as president March 4. 1793; and here his official career closed with the inauguration of Adams and Jefferson in 1797. Congress Hall is now principally an art gallery, owned by the City of Philadelphia; the paintings on display commemorate many impor- tant events in American history. Till-; Fra.nki.in Institute Continuing across 6th St. and ahead one sijuare, a right turn is made on 7th St., coming in front of 10 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Franklin Institute, on the right-hand or east side of the street, about halfway to Market St. This institution was founded in 1824, and named in memory of Benjamin Franklin; the corner-stone of the present building was laid June 8, 1825. In- struction in, and development of the mechanical arts and sciences, popular lectures, experiments, and the dissemination of useful information, have been its principal aims. In addition, the Institute promoted a series of early e.xhibitors of great interest and variety, leading up, it has been said, to the Centennial of 1S76. Among the objects worth particular ob- servation are the electric machine used by Frank- lin in his celebrated experiments, a small part of his printing press, and its stone "make-up" table, an odometer used by him, and also by Jefferson, to record distances traveled by carriage, the dress sword worn by Franklin at the Court of St. James, and models of telegraph and telephone instru- ments from their crude beginnings to the present time. The more closely the visitor examines the ex- hibits of this Institute, the more he realizes their exceptional value. Probably nowhere else is it possible to catch so much of the early scientific spirit, and trace, almost step by step, the progress of the United States in mechanics and the prac- tical sciences. The library and publications of the Institute are comprehensive and authoritative; and the visitor is impressed by the wise forethought of the founders of this great public benefaction, in planning st) much for future generations. Within a few years, a new and greater institution, made possible in part by the accumulated "Franklin Fund," will be erected along the parkway a short distance from the City Hall toward Fairmount Park. Proceeding along 7th to Market St., one may notice at the southwest corner the Penn National Bank, on the site of the house wherein Thomas Jefferson is said to have made the original draft of the Declaration of Independence, although historians differ on that point. The tablet pro- duced on page 7 may be seen on the north, or Market St. side of the building. In two or three minutes more the visitor has probably returned to the City Hall or vicinity. The Historical Society of Pennsylvania, 1300 Locust St. (southwest corner Locust and 13th), a short distance outside the small zone of the itinerary just concluded, is well worth a visit if one desires to look up detail references for points of historical or general interest in the city or State. Its library is unusually complete, and the art gal- lery contains many original pictures of great value. Here may be seen the wampum belt given to William Penn by the Indians; Franklin's punch keg; the desk used by Washington when President of the United States in Philadelphia; sword pre- sented to John Paul Jones by Louis XVI of France; General Anthony Wayne's sword and camp kettle; Lincoln's office furniture and law books, and the autograph manuscript of the "Star-Spangled Banner," "Home Sweet Home," and "Hail Columbia." The facilities of this so- ciety are freely and courteously available to all; but the collections there (including many priceless manuscripts), are more suitable for reference in careful researches than for brief inspection by the casual visitor. * * * The thought and life of Philadelphians have unquestionably been influenced by the nearness of and constant association with their national landmarks. Fortunately both city and people, as a whole, realize the responsibility for their safe- keeping, as well as the obligation of making them Pbutu iiy Rau, Pbttadelpbia IRANKLIN INSTITUTE. EAST SIDE OF 7th ST.. BETWEEN CHESTNUT AND MARKET STREETS Very unusual example of old classic architecture, with square pilasters. A memorial to Benjamin Frankhn, to continue for all time, the dis- covery of natural laws, and their application to increase the well-being and comfort of mankind readily accessible to large numbers of visitors. "To the stranger. Peace and Welcome," credited to William Penn, is not an empty phrase in the Quaker City even today. Here one meets a conscious effort to preserve the fast-slipping habit of reminiscence, and to cherish the visible connections between the pres- ent and the past. It is doubtful if any other city in the United States would have kept so many places of national importance with such care from colonial and revolutionary times to this day. The influences inherited from Penn may have been largely outgrown; but Philadelphia still lives more or less openly and proudly in the spirit and with the practical philosophy of Franklin. 11 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Chapter I— A (icneral Introductory Surrey The route from Phil;iclclpliia through Lancas- ter. Cohimbia, \'ork, Cjcttysburg, Chambersburf;, Bedford, Ligonicr and Greensburg to Pittsburgh, is primarily an evolution from two old and his- toric units now merged into its eastern and west- ern sections. More than 185 years have elapsed since the first small fractions retained in the pres- ent through line were laid out and made passable for wagons carrying produce to market, in ad- vance of any attempt to provide facilities for pas- senger transportation. The extensions, gradual completion and various uses made of this road, form a subject of exceptional interest, especially when traversed from east to west, the direction of its development. With a fair general knowledge of Pennsylvania history, as related to this route, and a few dates by which to identify important events, the usual limited time allotted for a tour of only 300 miles will enable one to discover, and perhaps turn to practical account, more than may at first seem possible. This process is facilitated by the un- folding of the subject, in progressive steps, with favorable opportunities tor observation of locali- ties and landmarks, the personal contact adding to, or even multiplying, the benefits ordinarily derived from the same amount of study at longer range. HisTORicAi, Foundations of the Route Between about 1733 and 1740, Philadelphia and Lancaster were connected by the old Provin- cial road, or "King's Highway," the root and nu- cleus of the later through line across the Alleghany mountains to the Ohio river at I'ittsburgh. .Al- though this section was built primarily to facili- tate local communication, and help settle the country through which it passed, the fact that it was the first, and a fairly direct, westward route, made it the logical base for development, an ad- vantage retained to this day. The enterprising early settlers of what is now principally Lancaster County opened two impor- tant lines of communication to the Susciuehanna even before they had secured a through connec- tion to Philadelphia. Branching westward from Lancaster like the two sides of an acute angle, the shorter one of these lines extended to the present site of Columbia, and the longer one to opposite where Harrisburg now stands. The former — crossing the wide river by Wright's ferry — became part of an important short link to York, the Po- tomac river and the Suscjuehanna valley, while the latter crossing at Harris's ferry, about 25 air-line miles northwest — was the natural and easiest route to the head of the Cumberland valley (the section about Carlisle), Juniata river points and west. It may be difiiciilt at first for the modern tour- ist to realize that the present section of the direct way from York through Gettysburg, Chambers- burg and .McConnellsburg into the mountains, was not laid out until after travel had become |iermanentlv established on the southwesterly line through ^ ork, and had made considerable use of the northwesterly route through the pres- ent Harrisburg. (Jeneral John I'orbes, in con- ducting his expedition of 175S against Fort Du- Quesne. used the old Provincial Road to Lancas- ter; and followed from that point the northwest- erly extension to the Suscjuehanna. Crossing the river at Harris's ferry, he continued along the natural path of the Cumberland vallcv, gradually trending southwest; thus he penetrated to about the center of the present State, by the lines of least resistance at that time, before striking over- land a comparatively short distance to his desti- nation. Turning out of the Cumberland valley at Ship- pensburg, POrbes used various fragments of road to surmount the eastern ranges of the Alleghanies to where Bedford now stands. From there (for Profile of fhe Pil-tsburgh- (Compare "Condensed Topography" maps, pages 16-17) Continued on opposite page DIAGRAM SliOWlNC; WIDE RANGE OF- TOPOGRAPH^' BETWEEN PHILADELPHIA AND PITTSBURGH— The irregular mountain ranges. I'igurcs in end margins give varying elevations above 12 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania „• ^^^W^. ll^^ Hk Pboto by L. A. Sampson, Berwyn FLOCK OF LAMBS ON A FARM IN CHESTER CO., PA. Comfortnbic but usually unpretentious farmliouses. spaciuus, well-kept barns, fine old trees and fertile (ands, mueh of it in pasturage, lend picturesque variety to this trip across the Keystone State convenient reference but in reahty from some- what farther west), the old military highway, or "Forbes Road," was cut with urgent haste, in the tall of 1758, through the forests covering the main Alleghany plateau and the lower ranges on the western slope, to the "F"orks of the Ohio," now the site of Pittsburgh, primarily to take Fort Du- Quesne from the French. What now constitutes approximately the western quarter of the road from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh was afterwards constructed on the general alignment, but only in spots in the actual track, of the route traveled by Forbes. In the course of tune, York, Gettysburg, Cham- bersburg, McConnellsburg and Bedford were connected into a short line across the center of the State, receiving much additional travel from" Baltimore to Pittsburgh, entering it from the southeast between Fort Loudon village and Mc- connellsburg. Gettysburg, once a small village on the old frontier, noted for the many roads lead- ing into and out of it, has become the greatest single point of interest on the direct, newer link. Option through Harrisburg The slightly longer but excellent and very in- teresting route from Philadelphia and Lancaster through Harrisburg and Carlisle to Chambers- burg, still remains, affording an opportunity to visit the State Capital, and to see about 51 miles of the fertile and historic Cumberland valley. By running around to the north of South Moun- tain (crossed by the short line through the Cash- town gap), the moderate grades in the semi-high- land country midway between Philadelphia and Lancaster are still the highest elevations all the way to Chambersburg. Round trips may be planned with advantage one way through Get- tysburg, and the other way through Harrisburg. Each integral part of the through highway, in- cluding the two options from Lancaster to Cham- bersburg, served the increasing needs of its own section of the colony or State for many years: and the whole made one of the greatest thoroughfares in America for freight-wagons and stage-coaches until their traffic was shifted to the railways. Al- ways an important avenue of national expansion, it was for a long time the only direct means of transport or communication across the interven- ing country, and proved almost indispensable to the great overland movement which opened up and settled the central and far west. Philadelphia route Continued jr am opposite page saw-tooth aspect is due both to the extreme condensing- of distances, cast and west, and to differences m the bulk and shape of the tidewater. Relative grades are indicated by the intermediate inclines 13 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Within the past few years, tlu- old units, with some loss of their former individuality, but to the great advantage of the midtiplied through travel, have become parts of the only highwav reaching from Atlantic tidewater to the Ohio river across a single state. Following generally the Indian trails and their first successor, the route of explor- ation and early trading path from the Delaware and Susquehanna rivers to the nearest point on the Ohio, it uses the (Id alignments without ma- terial change from Philadelphia into the Allegha- nies, though considerable deviations have been made on the western slope. Maps of different parrs of the road made at intervals during the past hundred years, brought to the same scale and pieced together, would be a hiirly accurate and serviceable guide for its essential features today. "Kky" Route to the West East-and-west transportation across the Key- stone State has been accomplished only through the solution of many ditticLilt problems by the builders of roads, canals and railways. None of the rivers between Philadelphia and Pittsburgh offered even as much assistance as the winding Potomac through parts of Maryland. I he larger streams, with their principal tributaries, follow diagonal north-and-south courses, and belong to two different watersheds, separated by mountain barriers. More abundant water supply on the eastern half, comparatively near the centers ot early population, led to designs to use them part- way across before the obstacles on the western half were fulK' measured. William Peiin, actuated by motives like those which at a later day led George Washington to plan and urge the improvement of Potomac nav- igation to the mountains, and the construction of a canal or highway through to the Ohio river, con- templated opening up transportation from Phil- adelphia through the Schu\lkill river to Reading, and thence across to the Sus(]uehanna, just be- Nond w hich began the still almost unknown "west- ern country." Penn is said to have once visited the Indian village of Conesfoga in southern Lan- caster County; but he knew very little of the trans-.'Xlleghany region with which Washington became well acciuainted during the military cam- paigns of 1754-55-.^8, and through the extensive travels of his earlier and later life. Both passed their ideas along to generations which accom- plished the purposes they had in view, and devel- oped other routes and means of travel and com- merce far beyond the expectations of their day. Across Pennsylvania, as through \'irginia and Marvland, the construction and equipment of waterways for extensive use would require a long period of time, heavy expense and large co-oper- ative effort. But highways could be built part at a time, and used as completed, w hich better suited the means and necessities of colonial times. (Jrad- ually the path or pack-horse trail was widened and made passable for vehicles, greatly stimu- lating travel and commerce over the route, which became in a special sense the "key" to the West. In his message of 1790, Thomas Mifflin, first governor of Pennsylvania, advocated an exten- sive system of internal improvements to connect "the extreme members of the Union," then lit- terally true, as Kentucky was not admitted until 1792, and Ohio in 1802. The program adopted led to the building of an extensive system of canals which, in connection with the Alleghany Portage R.R., one of the curious features of early rail transportation in America, provided the first com- plete passenger and freight traffic, except over the iiighwavs, between Philadelphia and Pittsburgh. As that development was princijially on the more northerly one of the three old-time routes across Pennsvlvania, it will be covered more fully in a later work on the William Penn Highway. Capitals of the Revolutionary Period From March 4, 1777, to June 21, 1783, the cap- OLD riME \ IF.W orsiX-IIORSETEAM AND CONESTOGA WAGON uiLui'.s LulUuwn This tvpi- of vrhiclf. oriKinatccl and built in large nunibt'rs in the Coni'stoRa section of Lancaster Co., aK^nR or nearby the route from Philadelphia to the Susquehanna River, was the principal means of transportation across the Bfue Ridge and Alle- gheuies during a long perioti of National expansion 14 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Pholo hy F. E. MiCreary. Bcdjard THE FAMOUS "JUNIATA CROSSINGS," EAST OF EVERETT, PA. Here the Raystown branch of the Juniata River is crossed by the longest covered bridge now rcniaininp on the western part of this route; a typical view of the wild and picturesque scenery along the rivers in the interior of the State. Bridges like this have already become rare, and will gradually disappear, at least from the main-traveled lines ital of the United States was on this route, the varying fortunes of the Revolution forcing the Continental Congress to shift its sessions from Philadelphia, first to Lancaster, and then to York, from whence it returned to Phdadelphia after the British evacuated that city. Both Lancaster and Columbia were once considered possible sites for the permanent national capital. I hough the col- ony was founded by Quakers, and the influence of that sect continues a factor to this day through the Commonwealth, more fighting has taken place on the soil of Pennsylvania than in any other State. Even the tourist making a quick through trip is conscious of being in some personal contact with momentous events in American history. Facts become more real and definite in the localities where they occurred; characters heretofore known only in text-books or encyclopedias step out into the light and shadow. It requires little imagination to almost hear the distant tramp of armies in the old French War, or echoes of Valley Forge, Paoli and the Brandy- wine from revolutionary days. The great events at Gettysburg seem to have been brought nearer, instead of passing always into the farther back- ground. Within the memory of living men, this was one of the principal stage routes of the eastern coun- try; today a form of travel unknown until com- paratiyely recent years is the ordinary transpor- tation over it. Most of the inland villages, and even the formerly almost isolated mountain ham- lets, now receive their mail by motor stage, in some cases the only regular passenger service of the locality, and the principal means of contact with the outside world. The telephone, rural free delivery and the automobile have revolu- tionized the life of whole sections; and one is easily convinced that crude means of local transporta- tion during the past two or three generations have been largely responsible for the loss of their younger element to the cities. The literature of this old thoroughfare is sur- Pbnlo from \V. H Breilhaupt THIS WAGON, NOW PRESERVED IN THE MUSEUM OF THE WATERLOO HISTORICAL society; KITCHENER, ONT., MADE THE OVERLAND TRIP IN 1807 FROM lANCASTER CO., PA., TO ONTARIO, CANADA Well-preserved specimen of original type. Pennsylvania farm wagon, which furnished transportation for Braddock (1755) and Forbes (1758) campaigns, and was the principal vehicle of the early "westward movement." The covered top (prairie schooner type) was a later development. 1.S The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania prisingly meagre and frapimentary, havinp: neither kept pace with its physical progress nor done justice to its past or present importance. An in- creasing niiinher of motor tourists are seeking more than the severely condensed through line ot the general map or the technical rimning direc- tions of the road hook. The present work aims to furnish the very little inlormation necessary for traveling the route, with such historical and local references as may easily he used in the course of a leisurely tour. W'lDi; Range ok Topography From about 40 feet above sea-level at the Phil- adelphia City Hall, the route to Gettysburg and Pittsburgh leads almost at once into a rolling su- burlian district, with almost unperceptible but gradually increasing elevation for nearly 25 miles. Then it makes a considerable descent into the Chester valley, across which the east and west branches of Brandywine creek flow to the south- .\lountaln at an elevation of 1,.334 feet. The de- scent of its •western flope into the Cumberland valley is also jnoderate, for at Chambersburg there has been a net rise of only 67 feet in the 25 miles from Gettysburg. (3ne of the most level stretches for the distance along the entire route is between Chambersburg. on Conococheague creek and Fort Loudon, on the west branch of that creek, the rise being only 21 feet in the 14 miles. At Fort Loudon, the topographic situation un- dergoes an almost complete change. Just west of that village the route begins a long, steep ascent of Cove mountain, a part of the Tuscarora range, and the first of the principal AUehgany summits, crossed at an elevation of 2, KM) fitt. While there are 3 slightly higher points beyond, this al- most abrupt rise from the floor of the Cumber- land valley, a relatively short distance, makes it one of the most formidable grades along the route. Once over the crest, there is a corresponding but shorter descent to McConnellsburg; thtn Little east. Just west of Coatesville it makes a short, almost abrupt ascent out of that valley, reaching within the next 6 miles an elevation of 843 feet, the highest point in the line east of the pass through South Mountain between Gettysburg and Chambersburg. The climb beyond Coatesville also lifts the route over the eastern rim of the Sus(iuehanna valley into an extensive area of tablelands, whose general trend for the next 35 miles is toward the west. So wide is this valley that the motorist scarcely recognizes it as such until the great broad river is reached at Columbia. 1 he upgrade on the western side of the Susquehanna is equally gradual, rising from 227 feet at Columbia to 368 at York and 553 at Gettysburg. So far there are no indications of the greater elevations soon to be encountered. A series of moderate grades a few miles west of Gettysburg lead up to the pass through South Continued on opposile page CONDENSF.D TOPOGUAl'l n, WESTERN SECTION OF Scrub and Scrub ridges, two minor ranges, are crossed to the next approximately level stretch at about the same elevation as McConnellsburg. Then begins an equally steep but somewhat shorter ascent of the eastern slope of Sideling Hill, whose summit rises 95 feet above the crest of Cove mountain. A very short, steep descent on its western slope is followed almost at once by a comparatively moderate ascent ot Ray's Hill, and then by a longer descent of the western slope ol that hill down into the valley of the Raystown branch of the Juniata river. This provides a rather long, nearly level section from the western foot of Ray's Hill through Everett to a short dis- tance beyond Bedford. Then the route climbs out of that valley, and after touching an interme- diate elevation of 1,522 feet, drops back easily to 1,259 feet at Schellsburg in the Quaker valley, the last drained hv eastward-flowing streams. The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Across the main Alleghany Range Just beyond Schellsburg begins the long but fairly gradual ascent of the main ridge of the Al- leghanies, crossed at an elevation of 2,908 feet. Though bulking much larger and rising slightly higher than either Cove mountain or Sideling hill, its slopes are more moderate than either of them; and the actual top is more like an easy grade in both directions than a conventional sum- mit. Ihe first descent on the western side is even more gradual and shorter, followed by an approx- imate level stretch, for a mountainous country, to the east foot of Laurel ridge, or "Laurel Hill." The ascent of this range from the east is short but comparatively steep, accounting for the al- most perpendicular line on the profile map just west of Jennertown. It reaches an elevation of 2,684 feet, and is the last formidable elevation on the route. I he western slope, longer and almost as steep as the eastern face, leads down into the principal difference is that in these States the mountains are in a series of ranges, which must be crossed at considerable heights by east-and- west travel, while the main routes of the Adiron- dack, Catskill and White mountain districts usu- ally go around the extreme elevations. Driving the Mountain Roads The longest and steepest grades can be made by any car in good conditicn; and the first-time visitor, even though accustomed to driving only in level country, need anticipate no difficulty on the trip. Brakes should be fairly tight, and the brakeband linings in shape for positive action — the newer and less used the better. However, a too frequent or too constant application of brakes on the longer descents will soon wear out ordinary linmgs, and often render them useless before reaching the next level The principal dependence should be upon the engine, and the brakes reserved mostly for emer- ». to Chambersburg Continued jrom opposite pagt: THE LINCOLN HICHWA\ IN PENNSYLVANIA Ligonier valley, beyond which Chestnut ridge is crossed by a comparatively low pass cut through^ by Loyalhanna creek. ' / From that point to Greensburg and Pittsburgh i /the route traverses a region of scenic highlands. Whose steepest grade is from just west of East MtKeesport down to Turtle creek station, too short to be shown on the condensed profile map. The elevation of the Ohio river at Pittsburgh is 640 feet, or 600 feet above Philadelphia City Hall. Formidable as these mountain ranges may ap- pear on the map and in traveling the route, they do not reach as high elevations as often supposed; and are much lower than the Adirondacks and Catskills of New York State or the White moun- tains of New Hampshire. The Appalachian system descends to considerably less than the av- erage heights in its wide course across Pennsylva- nia and Maryland; but rises to greater elevations in the Backbone range of West Virginia. The gencies. By shifting to low gear and shutting off the spark, the compression of the engine will do the work m the most efFective and reliable way. Less force is required to hold back the weight of the car and its load on the downgrades than would be exerted to ascend the same grades. Moderate application of the footbrake will help retard mo- mentum, particularly on rough stretches. While all the mountains on this route are fre- quently taken on high gear, they are more usually climbed on second, which has a tendency to heat the engine. To counteract this it is advisable, after running over the crest, to cut off the spark and cool the engine by making the descent in gear. The radiator may be filled with cold water at the start, and replenished en route if conven- ient; but this IS no longer necessary. Care should be taken to keep out of the way of vehicles coming from the opposite direction, es- pecially heavy cars ascending a steep winding 17 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania '■Ji. /Jtrui n. Pa. GENERAL, WA^■Nli MONUMENT. VAl.LEV FORGE. PA. The birthplace, home rind griivi- of Gen, Anthony Wayne nrc near this route, a few miies west o( Philadelphia. Several times east of Down- in^town. the traveler crosses the roads or paths followed during the Revolutionary cami>aign by Continental forces under the command of this distinguished olhcer and patriot. The monument has a conspicuous location along the Park Drive, a part of the side-trip from Devon to Valley Forge and return, made by many tourists using this through route grade under full power. No attempt should be made to pass anyone going in the same direction except on a reasonably wide stretch of road and with a clear view ahead. Stops should never be made on the curves without pulling to one side of the roadway, if possible entirely off the right of way. In case of emergency stops where the view may be at all obscured, it is a wise precaution to sta- tion some member of the party in a position to warn approaching cars. Stones brought to block the wheels should always be removed from the roadway; leaving them where used may endanger another car, especially on winding grades. l)l;l,AWARK RiVKR TO TH K OhIO RlVKR This old high\\a\- traverses a series of rolling highlands and mountain ranges, interlaced nearly throughout by several of the most picturesijue, interesting and important rivers and subordinate streams of the eastern United States. In their order from east to west these waterways are: The Delaware river, forming most of the east- ern boundary of Pennsylvania, whose slowly mov- ing waters are within five minutes" ride of the start of the trip; the Schuylkill river, the earliest improved water route in the State, east and west branches of Hrandywine creek, Conestoga creek. Sustjuehanna river, largest in Pennsj-lvania and much the widest on the route, east and west branches of Conococheague creek, and the Rays- town branch of the Juniata river, all flowing east and southeast, finally reaching the Atlantic; and Stony creek, Loyalhanna creek. Turtle creek and the Ohio river, uhose historic "forks" mark the end of the route, all flowing north or west, finallv reaching the Mississippi and the Gulf of Mexict). For a considerable part of the distance between Irwin and Pittsburgh the route is in the Monon- gahela country, but without ((uite touching that busy, historic river at any point. To identify the various streams as they are crossed, to recognize the characteristic topogra- phy of the most important of them, and to catch even from the moving car a fresh understanding of their large part in the histt)rical and physical development of the interior, will add a new and vital interest to this trip. The rivers and creeks briefly summarized here, partly by vvay of sug- gestion that the tourist note and follow this very interesting feature of the route, are left for more adetiiiate reference in succeeding chapters. SoMK InTKRE.STING SlWK-TRIPS Tourists with time and inclination for one or more deviations from the main road will find plenty of opportunities, summarized here in their order from east to west. Even if none of these side-trips can be taken at the time, a slight ac- quaintance with them widens the horizon of the tour as a whole, and adds greativ to its general interest. The first, shortest and perhaps the most inter- esting one is north, usually from Devon, but often conveniently from other nearby points, to \ alley Forge, before leaving the Philadelphia suburban 18 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania district. A side-trip to Ephrata, the historic and picturesque home of the Seventh Day Baptists, may be started northwest from Downingtown, coming back either at Lancaster, or through Lititz and Manheim (the place of the annual "feast of roses"), to Mount Joy, on the Lancaster- Harrisburg option. Ephrata can, however, be reached more conveniently by a short northward detour from Lancaster; and connected back, if desired, by a slightly longer circuit through Lititz and Manheim. One using the Harrisburg option, already re- ferred to, makes connection at the capital city with the William Penn Highway, leading through the Lewistown Narrows of the Juniata river to Hunt- ingdon, Altoona, Johnstown and the central- northern route to Pittsburgh. At Chambersburg the main route is crossed b\ the important line of travel from Harrisburg to Greencastle, thence either to Hagerstown, the Antietam battlefield and the longer way to the Shenandoah valley; or to Williamsport, Mary- land, and the short-cut through Martinsburg, W.Va., to Winchester, Va. Either of these side- trips will take the tourist into some of the most picturesque and interesting sections of the Poto- mac river country; also to or across the National Road leading from Baltimore or Washington through Frederick and Hagerstown to or beyond Cumberland. From Greensburg an important highway leads nearly direct south through Mount Pleasant and Connellsville to Uniontown, tor points east or west on the National Road. At Irwin, an interesting side-trip is offered a short distance north to the Bushy Run battle- field now being rescued from comparative obliv- ion, suitably marked, and made accessible to in- creasing numbers of tourists. From East Pitts- burgh, those who specially desire to pass over, oi' ••\ ANOR" (FACING SOUTH), RADNOR, PA. One of the old mansions of the main-!ine suburban district; original house built 1707, enlarged, 1840 and 1886. The property on which this is situated borders the Lincoln Highway for a considerable distance near Radnor station at least nearby, the site of Braddock's Field may do so, with practically no additional mileage, into Pittsburgh. This last option gives one an idea of the industrial establishments along the Monongahela river tor the last few miles before its identity, with that of the Allegheny, is lost in the Ohio. At Pittsburgh connection is made with the trunk lines traversing western Pennsylvania, adjacent sections of eastern Ohio and northern West Vir- ginia. These provide a number of routes farther west, and open up a wide choice of return trips, particularly into western New York, either by Lake Erie or along the Allegheny river and through photo by L. A Sampson, Berwyn, Pa. THE FORMER LAMB TAVERN. DEVON. PA. More well-preserved old inns or wagon-stands wiltbe found along the route between Philadelphia and Lancaster than on any other highway of^ equal length in the United States. This one is' at the top of Devon Hill, a short distance east of the 15th milestone; like the majority now standing, it has been for many years a private residence 19 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Pbjio by L. A. Sampson, Beruyn "SKNTINEL TREE," STRAFFORD, PA. JusI (iff the L.incoln Hinliway, on iht- road leadinp to StralTord Station, I* R. R,; said to havi- bcrn used by Washington's sentinels during the eneanipnient at VaMev Forge to give notiee of approach by the enemy. Dead and shattered, but still standing and retoKnizable Jamestown. l'ittslnii}ili also has two important connections to the National Road, one along the general course of the Monongahela river to Brownsville or Uniontown, and the other nearly direct southwest to W'ashmgton, Pa. From any one of these three pomts, that highway makes an excellent return trip through Uniontown, Cum- berland, 1 liigerstown and a wide choice of options farther east. Educational Institutions En Route It is doubtful if any other road of equal length in the United States passes by or near as man\ notable institutions of learning, an indication of how liberally educational facilities have been founded and sustained along this thoroughfare to the central West. Some ot these are among the oldest in the country, while others have been es- tablished within comparatively recent years. The University of l*ennsylvania, Girard Col- lege and the Franklin Institute, although a triHe off the exit from I'hiladelphia, are easily accessi- ble even to the stranger making a quick through trip. Haverford, IJryn .\I;iwr, \ ilia Nova and Villa Mariii are immediately on the route through the suburban tlistrict ot the (juaker Citv; Swarth- more is distant only a few miles. Franklin antl Marshall College is at Lancaster; Pennsylvania College and Ciettysburg Theological Seminary at Ciettysburg. The Harrisburg-Carlisle option between Lancaster and Chambersburg would add Dickinson College at Carlisle. Wilson College for women is at Chambersburg; and St. Xavier .Academy along the highway a short distance east of (ireensburg. W itbin comparatively recent years. Pittsburgh has become an important educational center, par- ticularly in the technical and industrial sciences. .A short distance off the main route entering that city from the east are the great Carnegie founda- tions, among the most notable and best-equipped in the world; these will be noted in more detail and illustrated in the final chapter. Nearby are the several buildings of the University of Pitts- burgh, (iraded and higher schools are conspicu- ous in nearly all the cities and towns through which the route passes. Salient Historic Features This great "Pennsylvania Road" and its chief rival, the National Pike, were to a large extent the result of increasing knowledge of and interest in the trans-Alleghany region, which began about 1750, and despite temporary interruptions or re- verses, made remarkable progress for a century. In 175S. next to the last year of the old French War, Forbes' expedition eniled that war in the Ohio valley. Ihe defeat of the Indians in 1763 at the battle of Bushy Run. the most easterly en gagement of Pontiac's W^ar, led to a treaty of peace between them and Sir William Johnson. Indian commissioner for the British government in North America, and practically clearetl what was then the western frontier. While the principal military engagements of the Revolution in Pennsylvania took place in the eastern half of the State, this road was even then an important avenue of communication and transport to and from the growing western settle- Pholo hy liev. AlJirn \\ . Qutmhy, Beruyn THE "TARl ETON HOUSE" A RevolutifM^ary landmnrk, on ground adjoining Signal Hill, Berwyn 20 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania ments. Over it passed mcist of the reinforce- ments, amniLinition and supplies sent from time to time during that period to the forts and military posts beyond the Ohio river. In 1812, consider- able numbers of troops marched from eastern and central Pennsylvania along this route to Pitts- burgh, thence up to Erie, Pa., and the Niagar.i frontier. Emigration and travel were greatly stimulated by the achievement of independence, the inaugu- ration ( f constitutional government, and partic- ularly by the Ordinance of 1787, which forever prohibited slavery, laid a broad foundation tor popular education, and assured persona! and re- ligious freedom in all the territory northwest ot the Ohio. By that time there was a con.'^iderabK freight wagon movement across the Alleghanies and gradually regular lines of stage-coaches were put into service. Both kinds of traffic steadilx increased in volume, reaching their height on both this route and the National Road from 1810 to 1840; and continued until the Baltimore & Ohio and Pennsylvania railroads took over the freight and passenger business. Unlike the National Pike through Maryland and southwestern Pennsylvania, the Philadelphia- Pittsburgh road never had any Federal assistance in construction or maintenance. Though the western end had originally been cut through tor military purposes, it was always dependent en- tirely upon private or local enterprise until the State took it over. For many years its visible ownership was divided among a number of toll companies, and the frequent stops to pay toll were a troublesome expense. LIBRARy CLOISTER, BRYN MAWR COLLEGE These extend along three sides of the inner court oi the Library, over- looking the cloister garden and fountain Toll system abolished On the eastern division, the system was strong- ly entrenched, commercially and politically, for many years; but toll is now altogether eliminated from this route. Some of the former toll-houses remain as picturesque relics of the past; but the majority of them have been removed or their identity lost in changes to other uses. The only toll bridge now used in crossing the State this way is the one over the Susquehanna at Columbia. 1 he old taverns are still numerous between Photo hy L. A. Sampson, Biriiyn FOUNDERS' HALL. HAVERFORD COLLEGE Oldest building now in use: opened f.^!! 1831, as Haverford School. Colonial type of building, the lelt end resembling a well- built Pennsylvania dwelling of that period. The octagonal bell tower and small square window panes are interesting features 21 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania l*holo by L. A Sampson, Btruyn I ORMER TOl L-HOUSE AT ST. DAVIDS. PA. One of the bfUcr type, with attempt at ornamentation, evidenced by Swiss cnalct influence in the pediment, and ^othic pin- nacle. The tastily draped curtains suggest cozy, wt^ll-kept living rooms on the sc*c'ion, Beriv\,n MILES SOUTH OF DEVON Built of rough, uncut stone. Colonial style, with Welsh modifications; Colonial windows with solid shutters. Rear view, showing outside stairway to the choir. The Wayne monument may Lc seen to the left of the large tree at the left, (See below) This church, built in 1714 and still regularly used, is "Old St. David's at Radnor." While visiting the Centennial at Philadelphia in 1S76, the poet Longfellow and his family staved at Rosemont, and became acquainted with numerous points of interest in this locality. Nearly 4 years later he wrote the 7 stanzas, the first lines ot which are: What an ijyiage of peace and rest Is ihis little cburcb cntumg its graves! Ajid all is so quiet; the troubled breast, Tbe wounded spirit, (be heart oppressed. Here tnay Jind repose it craves. THE GEN. ANril()N\ W'A^ NF MONUMENT. IN THE CEMErEK\ OI- OLD S L. DAVID'S CHURCH Inscription on two sides of the Wayne Monument: {North Front) Maior-General Anthonv Wayne was born at Waynesbcirnugli In Chester County State of Pennsylvania A. D. 1745'. After a life of honor and usefulness He died in December 179fci At a military post On the shores of Lake Erie Commander-in-chief of the army of The United States His military achievements Are consecrated In the history of his country His remains Are here deposited. (South Front) In honor of the distinguished Military service of Major-General Anthony Wayne And as an alTectionate tribute of respect to his memory This stone was erected by his companions In arms The Pennsvlvania State Society of The Cincinnati July 4th A. D. 1800 Thirty-fourth anniversary of The Independence of the United States An event which constitutes the most Appropriate eulogium of an American Soldier and Patriot 25 26 TWO LANDMARKS OF GREAT INTEREST AT VALLEY FORGE Locations shown on map. opposite NATIONAL MEMORIAL ARCH, VALLEY FORGE, PA. (SEE REFERENCE UNDER DEVON) Just west of the intersection of Outer Line Drive and Old Gulph Road. Constructed of granite, 50 feet wide at the base, and 50 feet high. Erected by the Federal Government in honor of Washington, and in memory of the Continental Army encamped at Val- ley Forpe, winter of 1777-78 WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS AT VALLEY FORGE, PA. Near the east bank of Valley Creek, a few yards from the Schuylkill. At the beginnine of the Revolution it was the home of Isaac Potts a well-to-do Quaker, who owned the nearby mills. Used as headquarters by Washmgton, December 2 5. 1777 - June 19, 1778. Now a public memorial and museum, dedicated June 19, 1879, by the Centennial and Memorial Association of Valley Forge 27 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania 28 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Chapter II — From Philadelphia to Lancaster — ^7H Miles Via the Parkxvay, East Drive of Fairmoimt Park, City Avenue, and the Former Lancaster Pike {beyond Overbrook) Author's note:— The form of this chapter, covering the Philadelphia suburban district and the interme- diate country to Lancaster, differs slightly frotn the text for the remainder of the route. Observation and experience prove that the motorist starting on a through trip is impatient of details, particularly on the way out of large cities. The eastern section is also changing more rapidly than the interior, and the landmarks are identified with more difficulty and less certainty. Though comprising only about 22i.> per cent of the total distance from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, this division has nearly half the place-names; and the suburban communities are so close together that the stranger passing through without stop is at times unable to tell them apart. In this section, also, are a considerable number of old buildings, more of which have ceased to be operated as taverns within the past year than in any previous whole decade in the history of the road. It will be several years, at least, before one may state with even fair accuracy which ones will survive; and meanwhile they will be unreliable "land- marks." Furthermore, while the close student or special investigator is able to find in reference libraries, de- tailed information about points of interest along the Philadelphia-Lancaster section, nothing consecutive and comprehensive has been prepared for more than four times that distance from Lancaster to Pittsburgh. The central and western sections naturally have greater topographical variety; and their landmarks change comparatively little. Hence the general summary of points of interest to Lancaster, and detailed descpri- tion beyond. The motor tourist starting from Philadelphia toward the west usually follows a far different route from the one used by stage-coaches and freight-wagons before the days of the railroads. Leaving the downtown business district, which was then along the Delaware river, extending tor some distance north and south from the toot ot Market and Chestnut streets, those vehicles con- tinued directly west along Market .St. through Center Square, later Penn Square, now occupied by the City Hall, to the Schuylkill river. That route may be followed today practically as it was by travelers of a century or more ago; but newer ways, particularly those through Fairmount Park, provide more attractive and better exits. After having been under construction for sev- eral years, the Parkway, extending diagonally northwest from the City Hall, is now (1920) open and in good shape for traffic. This entirely new thoroughfare, along or nearby which the principal civic structures of the future will be erected, forms a direct and superior connection into the east driveway of Fairmount Park; and with City Ave., makes a somewhat longer but, on the whole, a preferable way into Lancaster Ave. (Lincoln Highway) at Overbrook. In most cases tourists will find it advantageous to use this route, especially as traffic may go in either direction, whereas the principal alternates (Walnut St. outbound, and Chestnut St. in- bound) are subject to those restrictions; and are greatly inferior in general and scenic interest. The former most-used routes, notably the one up North Broad St. to Spring Garden St., turning left at the Baldwin Locomotive Works, past the United States Mint, and running into the east driveway of Fairmount Park, still remain as good and interesting options. Pbolo /»v" Rau^ Philadelphia SCIIUYLKll.LRIVERDRIVEANDLEMONHILl-OBSERVATORV.PHILADEI PHI A; A CHARACTERISTIC VIEW ON THIS WAY OUT OF THE CITY 29 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Photo by Jtnninfs, Pbita. UNITED STATES MINT. PlllLADEl PHIA West sidc'of Spring Garden St.. between loth and 17th streets, passed in usinti the N. Broad St. -Spring Garden St. ftption from City Hail into I'airmount Park. \j\ excellent example of Italian Renaissance Architecture; constructed of Maine granite Ont- may also cross the Schuylkill at (lirartl Ave., and run through the west side of Fairmount Park, the site of the Centennial P.\position of 1876, into City Ave. There are still other op- tions, due to the growth of the city north and west, and the increasing number of thoroughfares which may be used, in whole or in parr, into the Lincoln Highway beyond the City Line. DIRECTIONS for the Parkway-Fairmount Park- c;ity Ave. route reduced to simplest terms are: Leave northwest corner of City Hall, out the Parkway into the east driveway of Fairmount Park. Follow along east bank of Schuylkill river to City Ave. (first left-hand turn beyond the pumping station). Cross iron bridge over river, and proceed southwest along City Ave. to rijiht-hantl turn into Lancaster Ave. (Lincoln lllfj;hwav) at the Over- brook Presbyterian Church, "-^ miles from the start at Citv I lall. Practically no directions are needed for the balance ol the way to Lancaster. A Stranger's ordinary impression in running out of Philadelphia this way is likely to be a composite of the e.xtensive, well-kept park, traversed bv a vast system of streets and avenues leading in va- rious directions, and cut by railroad lines met in unexpected places. N'iews of the placid Schuyl- kill, and the bridges by which roads and railways cross it, of compact residence districts which come quickly into view and :dmost as soon disappear from sight, with now and then glimpses of some of the many institutions for which Philadelphiii is noted, lend interest and variety to the few minutes which this part of the trip will rciiuirc. I he most conspicuous hnulmarks — w hich m;i\ he seen to fair advantage even when passing them without stop —are the "Presidential monuments," a notable group of three. Just beyond the en- trance into the east driveway of the park, from cither the Parkway or Spring (Jarden St. is the large and imposing Washington monument (eques- trian). In the next prominent fork bevond (about half-way between the entrance and (lirard Ave. bridge), is the only Lincoln monument on this route east of CJettysburg, the figure in a sitting posture on a high pedestal. The third, an eques- trian statue of Grant, in complete field equip- ment, overlooks the river from its position on the nght-hand side ot the driveway a short distance lH\nnd (iir;ird Ave. bridge. .\RDMORE is the first of the "main-line" sub- urbs met on this route (though not thf first on the railroad). On the right, at about the center, is the extensive plant of the Auto-car Co. In the olden days, the Lancaster Pike through Ardmore (before the present name was given to it), was well supplied with taverns, some of historic character; Pboto by Hiiu, Pbtla WASHINGTON .MONUMENT. FAIRMOUNT PARK. PHIl A. Conspicuously on the right, just beyond th Parkway-Sprinp Garden St entrance. The equestrian figure, a bronze cast 20 feet high, one of the largest and finest in the country, represents the hrst Conintander- in-Ch*ef, looking southeast, toward City Hall. Designed by Prof. Ru- dolph Sicmcring, Berlin; mounted upon a granite pier, and approached from the base by 1 I steps, emblematic of the original States The movement for a memorial to the "Father of his Countr.v" dates back to about 1811; and about $280,000 had accumulated before a start was made. Erected 18^X^-'^7, under auspices Pennsylvania Society of the Cincinnati; unveiled by President McKinley, 18^)7 30 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania places in an almost continuous residence section. WAYNE, named after Genera! Anthony Wayne, was the location of the "Spread Eagle," one of the most noted taverns on this route in stage-coach davs. George William Childs, the publisher and philanthropist, owned considerable realty here some forty years ago; and the attractive ivy-cov- ered library, on the left, bears his name. DEVON is the place from which two detours are made by many tourists using this route: (1) northwest about four miles to Valley Forge, the bivouac of the Continental army under Wash- ington during the winter of 1777-78; and (2) a short two miles southwest to St. Davids Church, widely known as having been the subject of Long- fellow's poem. "Old St. Davids at Radnor." Gen- eral Anthony Wayne is buried in the cemetery of this church. BERWYN is a beautiful suburban village. Near "Signal Hill," south of it, "Light Horse Harry" Lee had a skirmish, January 14, 1778, with a force of Tarleton's (British) dragoons. About three miles north of our route, from a point just west of the railroad station, is "Chesterbrook Farm," es- tate of the late Alexander J. Cassatt, former pres- Pbolo by Rau, Pbila. LINCOLN MONUMENT, FAIRMOUNT PARK. PHILADELPHIA In triangle of roadways, about midway between the Parkway Spring Garden St. entrance and Girard Ave. bridge. The first Lincoln monu- ment on this route (westbound) across Pennsylvania The bronze figure, by Randolf Cross, an American at Rome; cast in Munich. Erected by Lincoln Monument Association, Philadelphia; dedicated Sept. 22, 1871, the *^th anniversary, announcement of Eman- cipation Proclamation (Sept. 32, 18(^2), Monument faces southeast toward the city, overlooking the East Drive and the Schuylkill but most of them have already gone, and few if any will much longer remain. The highway now runs for .several miles through the "Welsh tract," set apart by William Penn for settlement by \\ elsh immigrants. It was intended to become a bar- ony, with its own laws; but that plan was never realized. The names of most of the places in this section, including Haverford, Bryn Mawr, Radnor, Devon, Berwyn and Tredyffrin (a township namej are Welsh. HAVERFORD, just beyond Ardmore, is best known as the location of Haverford College, an old and well-known institution under the general auspices of the Society of Orthodox Friends (Qua- kers). Founded in 1833, as Haverford School; became a college in 18S3. Noted for extensive and beautiful grounds, reached through stone gates, on the left; not conspicuous when passed at speed. BRYN MAWR is a high-class suburb, with many fine estates. Its principal object ot inter- est is Bryn Mawr College, located on the north side of the railroad, some distance off this route, and therefore not seen clearly unless one makes a detour to reach it. ROSEMONT adjoins Bryn Mawr along this highway, on the west. VILLA NOVA is the site of a massive group of stone buildings, known collectively as Villa Nova College, under the auspices of the Augustinian fathers. RADNOR and ST. DAVIDS are suburban Fboto eopyrigbted by Hau, Pbila. GRANT MONUMENT, FAIRMOUNT PARK, PHILA. Third and last presidential monument along this run through the park. At intersection of East Drive and Fountain Green Drive, close to mam- line tracks, P. & R. R.R., overlooking the river. Represents Geti^ U. S Grant in complete field equipment. Bronze by Daniel Chester French and Edward C. Potter. Cast by Bureau Brothers; Jonesboro granite, designed by Frank Miles Day. Erected partly by subscription, increased by appropriation from Phila- delphia City Councils, unveiled and accepted by Commissioners of Fairmount Park, "Grant Day," April 27, 18W. Ceremonies were at- tended by President McKinlev, members of his cabinet, Mrs. U. S. Grant, M"aj.-Gen. Miles, and distinguished guests in military and civil life. 31 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania From portrait hy Charles Wilson Ptale, furnished liy W'itlam W'ayiw GENERAL ANTHONY WA^NE The apprllation "Mad Anthony" Wayne, does an injustice to the niem- nry «)f this famcHis oMieer, whose achievements were due to genius for organization and coninianti, great ability, loyal purpose and self-sac- rilice iclcnt of the Pennsylvania Railroad, anil now owned by his son. Major E. B. Cassatt. DAYLESFORD was the location of the "Blue Ball" tavern, one of the earliest along this route. On the left, between Daylesford station and Fa- oli, is the home of the TredyfTrin Country Club, and its extensive golf grounds. PAOLI, named after Pascal Paoli, a Corsican general, was once best-known as the location of the General Paoli tavern. Somewhat more than a mile south is "Waynesborough House." birth- place of Cien. .Anthon\ Wayne, and bis home dur- mg the comparatively short period when he was not m the service of his country. 1 he older part of the building was erected in 1742 and the pres- ent main part in 1765. This elegant stone man- sion of the olden time is on an estate of 321 acres now owned by Hon. William Wayne, great-great grandson of the famous General. I^boto tiy Cbarlts li. Barker ONCETHE "VVIl 1 lAM PENN INN" On the north side of the highway between Overbrook and Ardmore. A substantial conuiiodious tavern of the olden time; for many years resi- dence of the late N. P. Shortridgc GREEN TREE (Station) perpetuates the name of the "(ireen Tree" tavern ot stage-coach days. One mile beyond that station — just in front of the point where the route turns right to pass under the Trenton branch. Pennsylvania Railroad, is a large old building, formerly the cel- ebrated Warren tavern. Pbuo t>y (). M Ctase, Hcierjord Coltfge "llAVEREOHD UNION," ROBERTS HAl.l,. AND BARCLAY HALL. HAVERFORD COLLEGE Panoramic view, front left to right, of the Cullcgc club house, the Auditorium and Administration building, and one of ihc dormitories, all partly concealed by heavy foliage 32 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Photo by L. A. Sampson, Beruyn "WAVNESBOROUGH," THE WAYNE HOMESTEAD. SOUTH OF PAOLI, PA. Architecture, Georgian Colonial, with Welsh modifications. Superior workmanship, and fine detail much in evidence. An unusual feature is the portico, without supporting columns, over the front entrance. The vine overrunning'neariy all of the side of the house is an excellent specimen of Kenilworth ivy Pbolo by I. ONCE KNOWN AS THE "GENERAL WA^NE," AT FRAZER. PA. Sampson, Beiwyn A substantial well-preserved "wagon-stand" (recalling the times when freight was hauled over the old Pike), transformed into a commodious summer residence; owned by Judge Joseph P. Rogers, of Philadelphia The long, narrow canopy roof over the first story, and the pergola on the right-hand side of the picture, are modern additions 33 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania r «!i>-.- ''^^* ^* .'^^^^'LyJraX^^.l^^^rtt^t — Photo by L. A, Sampson, Berw\'n "I'AOll MASSACRE" MONUMENTS. SOUTH OF THE HIGHWAY NEAR MALVERN. PA. Thf Paoli-Malvcrn district — crossed, northward, by the British and Continental armies on their way from Brandy- wine battlefield to the Schuykill River (Valley Forge) — was in the outer zone of military operations along this route during the Revolution Looking northeast (dim outline of Mal- vern in the distance); Pennsylvania R.R. main line and Lincoln Highway heyond the extreme hackjiroiind. I he smaller montiment was erected in 1817, 40 years after the massacre; and the larget one in 1K77, the 100th anniversary, celebrated Sept. 21, that year. On the west side of the larger monument, cut into the stone, is this inscription: S.ACRKD ro the memory ol the Patriots who on this spot fell a sacrifice to British barbarity during the struggle for .American Independence on the night of the 20th of September, 1777 Pbolo by L. A. Sampson, Bnuyn STONE URIDGE ACROSS EAS 1 BKA.M.ll. UKAND\ WINE CREEK. DOWNINGTOWN. PA. A three-arched structure of segment form, with round stone pilasters and prominent keystones. Built in 1801 of first- class stone masonry, and still in good condition The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania photo hy L. A. Sampson, Berwyn FRIENDS' MEETING HOUSE On the highway, east of Downingtown. The Society ol Friends, organized in 1807, has since worshipped regularly at this old stone house The route now descends into the Chester Valley, across which it will run lor the next several miles. This section of Chester Co. was originally settled by Quakers, Germans and Swiss, with an intermingling of French Huguenots, probably the most composite immigration of colonial times. MALVERN is the nearest point on this route (ahoiit 1 mile) to the grounds known as the place of the "Paoli massacre." On the night of Sep- tember 20, 1777, Gen. Charles Grey with a con- siderable British force came upon a small detach- ment of Americans belongmg to Gen. Wayne's command; and refusing quarter, killed S3 of them in cold blood; hence the accepted name of the event. The site is marked by a monument with cannon. FRASER is the location of Villa Maria Acad- emy, occupvmg a sightly plateau about a half- mile south of the through route. At this point the West Chester branch of the Pennsylvania Railroad leaves the main line, almost due south. GLEN LOCH, EXTON and WHITFORD are small residence suburbs. These few miles along the route are of slight interest to the through traveler; but (especially part of the old line, some- what north), of considerable interest to the stu- dent of the history of the road. EAST DOWNINGTOWN and DOWNING - TOWN are among the oldest settlements between Philadelphia and Lancaster, dating back to about 1710. The stone bridge across the east branch of the Brandywine here was built in 1801; and is still carrying the heavy traffic of the road. Favorable mill-sites afforded by the stream attracted early home-seekers; for a long time in pioneer days, the grist-mill here was the only one for miles about, and the settlement became the trading center for western Chester County and eastern Lancaster County. Originally called Milltown. the place was after- ward known as Downing's Mill, from which the present names have been derived. I averns at both East Downingtown and Downingtown ac- commodated stage-coach travel during the turn- pike era. At least two excellent specimens, one on either side of the creek, have been preserved; but both are now private residences. During the last quarter-century, the Downingtowns have be- come considerable industrial centers. The birthplace of Thomas Buchanan Read, author of "Sheridan's Ride," is at Korner Ketch, about 4 miles from Downingtown, reached by taking the right-hand road (Harrisburg or "Horseshoe'' Pike) about 100 yards west of the stone bridge over Brandywine Creek. For the two additional turns necessary to reach the homestead, note the stone marker with bronze inscription, pl.iced by the Chester Co. Historical Societv about 3 miles out on the "Horseshoe" Pike. The stretch from Downingtown through the Fbolo by L. A. Sampson, Berwyn LOG HOUSE, EAST DOWNINGTOWN. PA. On the right-hand side of highway, close by the bridge which separates East Downingtown from Downingtown. Built in or about I7I0; a lit- eral survivor of the days of the Wilderness in this region. Oldest dwell- ing in the locality, antedating by several years the ancient mill which gave Downingtown its first importance 35 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania i-. J^ Pbnlo by L. A. Sampson. Berwvn ONCE THE GENERAL "WASHINGTON" TAVERN A cclcbrati'd inn on the eastern edgr of Downinctown, the half-wny point between Philadelphia and Lancaster. With the the exeeptinn of the porch, a comparatively modern addition, this building stands as it did at the height of the stngr- coach era Pbolo b\ L. A. Sampson, Beruyn PUBLIC I lhKAK^. DOWNINCTOWN, PA. A fine old-style Colonial mansion, with unusually pruniiiuni ilornuT windows, rounded at the top The arched doorway, with pillars on each side, is an interesting architectural feature 36 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania village of Thorndale to Coatesville is practically a straightaway alongside the railroad and trolley, j^ traversing the gradually narrowing western end of the Chester Valley. COATESVILLE, on the west branch of Bran- dywine Creek, was settled much later than the Downingtowns, and has much less early history. It has been, however, an important steel manu- facturing center for over a hundred years. The great plant of the Lukens Steel Co. adjoins the roadway on the left; that formerly known as the Worth Bros. Co., now a part of the Midvale Steel & Ordnance Co., is farther south. In plain sight, on the right, is a stone viaduct often arches, carry- ing the main line of the Pennsylvania Railroad over the west branch of the Brandywine Creek. Leaving Coatesville, our route ascends an un- expectedly steep grade and enters the semi-high- lands characteristic of the section from here to Lancaster. About 43/2 rniles beyond the next village (Sadsburyville), the route passes from Chester County into Lancaster County, the latter extending the balance of the way to the Susque- hanna river. Just beyond the inter-county line is an elevation of 843 feet, the highest point on this road between Philadelphia and South Moun- tain (west of Gettysburg). The next stretch of this route, running just north of Gap village, then through Kinzer, Vin- tage (formerly Williamstown), Leaman Place, Paradise and Soudersburg, is of considerable his- toric interest; and there are a number ot old tav- erns and other buildings on or nearby the high- Phoio /?> L. A. Sampson, Berwyn ROADSIDE MARKER IDENTIFYING THE BIRTHPLACE OF THOMAS BUCHANAN READ Reached by short side-trip, northwest along the Harrisburg ("Horse- shoe") Pike, from Downinglown Fbotu />v L. A. Sumitson, Bcruyn OLD SLAVMAKER TAVERN NEAR GAP Built about 17^4 by Amos Slaymaker, of the firm of Reeside & -Slay- niaker, operators of passenger stage lines. Known during the stage- coach era as the "Sign of John Adams" wav. But they and their associations require more time and detailed examination than the av- erage through tourist is able to give to them. Just before entering the eastern end of Lancas- ter, this route crosses Conestoga creek by the fa- mous old "Witmer Bridge," erected in 1800 as a toll-bridge bv Abraham Witmer, when the local- ity was unable to build a suitable structure for free public use. Ihis is said to be the oldest bridge, at least on any heavily traveled route, in the United States; and except for being now some- what narrow, is serving the greatly increased traffic as satisfactorily as during the era of the stage-coach and freight-wagon. The lettering cut into the sides of this old stone structure is well worth stopping to read. LANCASTER, laid out in 1730, is one of the oldest and most historic places in the interior of Pennsylvania. At the original Court House here, in 1744, the celebrated "Treaty of Lancas- ter" was framed and signed by commissioners from Pennsylvania, Maryland and Virginia, in conference with representatives of the Six Na- tions (Iroquois) who, claiming this and the west- ern territory by virtue of their conquest of the Delawares, ceded to Virginia for £400, and some minor considerations, "all the lands to the setting sun," which was the basis for the later claims of Virginia to vast regions beyond the Alleghanies and the Ohio river. About 1763, the Susque- hannock or Conestoga tribe Indians were practi- cally exterminated; but the name of that tribe is perpetuated in the Susquehanna river, Conestoga creek, and elsewhere throughout this section. fTWhen, after the battle of the Brandywine, in September, 1777, the British occupied Philadel- phia, the Continental Congress met for one day in the originalCourt House; but after an informal 57 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania r- — ,1 3 &5I i k2^ • Si Hi i 38 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania "2 ^'o >■ o is a: w w H na < ^ z > ^ o O O z z a"0 5 01 O = o .j: a> > U 1* fc- O >-u ■7 c > = n < " - 0..E u O o ° o V C o-r: o *- ^ < S ll h t . a: ^^ < < b. >■ H z 3 o u a: w H <: u Is o V "■1 tjfi h-f- c « = U " = Ji C 3 Q-S = zi: rr o o w ; ' u c c 2 > s =^ : >: 2 c a c c ^ oj'.S = Wat; H.fi-S CD C *' <; «(_ z°- < J p -J- 3 - iJ-T: ugS C C 6t = 11 = <-52 . C . I o = B 3 *- «■- t/) I^ t!-= si :-. ?? ^ a 0= . y Ji S >>^ a 0-= ; I y ° s •■' < " u c h '= « m 3 - c T „ o" * > c '^^ >.£ >-;-c - « *j *j c^.Si UJ ^-i SI- t/i ^ o < t: U. rt c O. w (A u Z Ji S S:£-= 39 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Pbolo by L. A. Sampson, Berwyn EASTERN AI'PKOACIl TO CONESTOGA BRIDGE meeting there tr:insfened its sessions farther in- land to ^Ork. I his is the basis for the statement that Lancaster was for one day the capital of the United States. In 1789, the citizens of this place addressed a memorial to Congress proposing that Lancaster be made the permanent capital. This was the chief inland city of Penn's colony. and until 18(X) the largest inland toun in the United States. From the earliest days, it was .1 road and travel center of great importance; ami the Philadelphia and Lancaster Turnpike, con- structed in 17'>4-96, was the first improved high- way of its length in the country. Other turn- pikes followed rapidly, until the principal points in eastern Pennsylvania were connected up with this enterprising and prosperous community. Lancaster was, naturally, an important center for stage-coach and freight-wagon traffic: and was well supplied with taverns during that period. Now it is a growing manufacturing city, situ- ated in what is still often called the "richest agri- cultural county in the United States." It was the home of Gen. John F. Reynolds, killed in the first day's fight at Ciettysburg. of Ihaddeus Stevens, James Buchanan, and many other notable people of former days. Robert Fulton, the inventor, also resided here during part of his youth. Tii ^*ASn^\KTax hotkl VAjrr RBtic.i ■A /■r..m ,•■• .. . .,1 LANCASTER VIEW DURING THE STAGE-COAC.H ERA .Miller's Hold (sign of General Washington), and Earmcrs Bank, ad- ioininK,same; S. W. t-or. E. KinR and N. Duke streets; now oeeupied by Eariners Trust Co. A bank has been eontinuously on that site since about 1810, the lirst one being literally a farmers' bank During the Rexdiiirion, Lancaster County supplied more food, wagons, clothing and other war materials to the Continental armies than any other place in the colony, Philadelphia ex- cepted. Here was the original home of the Conestoga wagon, a typical .American product, which greatly infiuenced wagon construction through- out the LInited States more than a cenrurv ago. WIIMER'S BRIDGE. EAST OF LANCASTER Taken in summer from the south side, before the trolley was built, and before the trestle on which it now crosses Conestoga creek was constructed 40 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Chapter III — From Lancaster to ) ork—'24}^ Miles Via Mountville, Coliinilna, Wrightsville, Hettain and Stony Brook Starting west from ].anc:ister, the tourist pro- ceeds out W. King St. (continuation of E. King St. from the opposite side of Center Square), and is headed for the Susquehanna river at Columbia. Several points of general and historical interest may be seen on this direct way out; and still more if one cares to make a short detour in the farther end of the city to pass Franklin and Marshall College, and "Wheatland," the former home of James Buchanan, both referred to in later para- graphs. Passing notice should be given to Lancaster's interesting old City Hall, on the northwest corner made by North Queen St. and the Square, the lo- cation of the "Market Lot" in the early days. On the north side of it was Market Square, no longer in existence; and on the south side the City Hall was built, probably in 1786, '87 or '88. From 1798 to 1812, when Lancaster was the capital of Pennsylvania, it was occupied by the State offi- ces; and in some of the old records is referred to as the "State House. " One block beyond — on the northwest corner of West King and North Prince streets — stood the old jail and workhouse, long since torn down. On December 14, 17C)3, alter the massacre of Con- estoga Indians by the company of lawless men known as the "Paxtang Boys," at Indiantown, in Manor lownship, lourteen who were absent from the village at the time among the white people, were collected by the magistrates, brought to Lancaster, and placed in this building. Ignoring the proclamation of CJov. John Penn. who denounced the outrage, and offered a reward for the arrest and punishment of the murderers, the "Paxtang Boys" again came to Lancaster, and breaking into the jail, killed all the Indians there. This practically exterminated the Con- estogas, the remnant of the once powerful Sus- quehannocks. who a century before held domin- ion over all the other tribes in the lower Susque- hanna valley, as well as those living on the shores of Chesapeake bay. On the south side of West King St., about a block and a half beyond the City Hall, is a large umbrella manufacturing plant. On the opposite (north) side, at the northeast corner ot Mulberry St., the second street west of where the old jail stood — is the old Plow Tavern, a quaint and-one- a-half story stone house, said to have been erected 41 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania l*bolo bv . J>'am;>.son, Itctuyn CENTMK OR PENN SQUARE, LANCASTER, PA. Site of first Cimrl House in Lnncustcr County, where the Continent.-il Congress held one session (Sept. 1777) That was burned in 1784: and a new one finished on same site in 1787. When the present Court House at H. King and N. Duke streets was ready in 1850, the second one was demolished, and the old location made an open square The soldiers' monument. cappc East, (»r No. I(> readinK from East to West 3 V>^ m ■, .^CROSSTHETWO MOST WESTERLY MOUNTAIN RANGES ON THIS TRIP No. 3 rcadinn from West to East, oi , No. U reading from East to West g^ . " S'r.helisbiiri; j^^% '''" . - -V ' ; ' - ; ,'' ■ '- Wolfsbure, -r BEDFORD WEST. ACROSS THE MAIN ALLEGHANY RANGE No. S rcatlinR from West to East, or No. 12 rt-atlinn Irocn East to West THE FIRST STEEP GRADES WESTBOUND : PRELUDE TO THE MAIN ALLEGHANY RANGE No. 7 ri'iulinn from West lu East, or No. 10 reading from East to Wt-st 48 Traveling cast, the maps on these 4 pages make a complete and consecutive series — from left to right, down the page, like type. Westbound they read from right to left (a disadvantage inherent in reading any map in that direction), and up the page. Bushy Run Baf-Hcfield Westmoreland City Jeannette SECTION THROUGH GREENSBURG: A GREAT COAL-PRODUCING AREA No. 2 reading fri>ni West to East, or No. I 5 reading from East to West Dense forests, and farm lands. is\ ^\^^J^ ^ Buckstown STHX IN THE MOUNTAINS SLOPING GENERALLY' WEST No. 4 reading from West to East, or No. 13 reading from East to West HarHey -^\e ^ ^\ Ouames "X S-' (Hon Jos C Thmff^^L~- MOSTLY ALONG THE RAYSTOWN BRANCH. JUNIATA RIVER No. reading from West to East, or No. I 1 reading from East to West SECTION ACROSS THE CUMBERLAND VALLEY. THROUGH CHAMBERSBURG No. 8 reading from West to East, or No. 9 reading from East to West 49 Maps in Sequence---Pittsburgh to Philadelphia 'RcadinK across the two opposite pages). 'Hop EST RESERVt ■'^t.i'- Caledonia F'ar-k ircit 'one bridge To Hanover |GETTYSBURG\ see special map GETTYSBURG WEST THROUGH THE CASHTOWN PASS OF SOUTH MOUNTAIN No. ^t rt-iicIinK frnin Wt-st u> East, or No. H ri.'jiciing from East to West Hellam --- -O Tb.Cojumbta -y 9 S'fe c/frenk/in B-es3.Sepf l777Jvne'77S " '^retmgpuct ofContinanrfl Conortss. Jepr 30.l7J7'June27,i 178 Stonybrook Scale of mites WFST SIDE. SUSQUEHANNA VALLEY: SECTION THROUGH YORK N«. I 1 rt:Klinn from Wt-st to Enst. «»r No. o rtaJint; frcmi East t(. Wist MOSTLY THROUGH EASTERN LANCASTER COUNTY No. 13 rcatlinn from Wcsi to East, or No. 4 reading from Ea^it to West THROUGH THE MIDDI.E-DIS lANCE SUBURBS No. I S riaclinK from Wist to East, or No. 2 riading from East to West 50 "raveling east, the maps on these 4 pages make a complete and consecutive series— from left to right, down the page, like type. Westbound, they "ad from right to left (a disadvantage inherent in reading any map in that direction), and up the page MIDDLE SECTION BETWEEN YORK AND GETTYSBURG No. 10 reading from West to East, i>r N<^». 7 reading from East to West Maristta Juncf \LonqP^rk\p>ll>trvllm. /T-C' A CHD ol< \ - - BBSe Washington ^ \ \ > \;\B Borough C°^ LANCASTER |*. \ ^t"^ •^r' \\f\ III - 5-.i.-^K-(i.. 1 Hl#\ ° ■ ' THROUGH LANCASTER, TO AND ACROSS THE SUSQUEHANNA AT COLUMBIA No. 12 reading from West to East, or No. 5 reading from East to West Throu s h COATESVILL E , ,,».Siijfc, :3 .'«.« >r?!#'^ 5(§'™:^'c Whitfbrd Eastv v:",-.-1'i«^> y" Thorndalv Downingtown^^^owninjtown^;:--;;^^ Scale of miles -7— -— r:T^>.^__>..,-r as ' -Ff 5;,,, ' bui/nn/eoi - ^>'4. '«,-' "^^ THROUGH DOWNINGTOWN AND COATESVILLE. THE ■'BRANDYWINE" SECTION No. 14 reading Troni West to East, or No. 3 reading from East to West PHILADELPHIA For details see separate map ^ CilyHail OUT OF PHILADELPHIA, AND THROUGH THE FIRST "MAIN LINE" SUBURBS No. 16 reading from West to East, or No. 1 reading from East to West 51 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania In Novemher, 1811, however, sufficient subscrip- tions had been secured to justify the j^overnor in creatuiK the corporation; the follouinfi iiicmth the stockholders met and elected jolm \\ right presi- dent. By way of assisting so great a work, the State voted a subsidy of 5^90,000, one-half paya- ble on completion of the abutments, and the bal- ance when the bridge was open to traffic. Three Structures Demolished on This Site Work on the first bridge was started under a contract dated July 8. 1812, and completed in 1814. at a cost of J5233,00(). After carrying the increasing traffic for about eighteen years, the original structure was carried away by an ice freshet in the winter of 1832; and was subse- quently rebuilt on the same understructure at a cost of 5^157,030. Ibis second bridge histed until June 28, 1863, when it was burned to prevent the Confederate forces from crossing, :is will be re- ferred to more specifically in a hiter p;iragraph. On account of the losses already incurred by private companies in the attempt to bridge rbe river here, and the difficulty of raising new capital during a critical stage of the war between the States, a ferry was re-established to accommodate as best it could the traffic at this point. It is an interesting fact that the successor to this emer- gency war-time terry is still carrying some traffic which does not care to pay the rates ch;iige(l by the bridge company. 1 he tourist happening to catch a view of this old ferry, will have a fair idea of the principal means of transportation between Columbia and Wrightsville a half century or more ago. I'bulo li\ J. I\. j\lttler, Maylown VIEW IMMKDIAIUIA NORTH OF COLUMBIA. PA. Showinc rcnui'ins of tl»c IVnnsvIvanIa Canal, now ahancloni-cl. thi* rail- way, which replaced it as the means of lrans()c>rtati^29,()0() toward it, anil sup- plied a large amount ot flour tf) each of Karlv's tour brigades. .At the office of Mr. Samuel Small, the money was handed to him in the presence of two persons still (1920) living in York. All of the papers relating to the requisition, covering several pages, are carefully preserved in the archives of the Historical Society of ^'ork County, which occupies a large room on the third floor of the Court House. N'isitors will find great interest in the museum and library of the Society, containing about 10,000 specimens, local views and relics, also about 3,000 books relating to Penn- sylvania history. Ibis library and museum were built up by Mr. George R. Prowell, the curator and librarian, after his return from twelve years as newspaper correspondent at W ashiiigton in 1904. On the second one of the nearly two da\s Early remained here, he demanded that the mayor go with him to the carshops near the station, for the purpose of burning them unless the people raised the balance of the money. \\ bile standing near the shops a courier arrived from General Fwell, his corps commaniler, then at Carlisle, ortlering him to return with all possible haste to Gett\s- burg. (Karhs advance brigade under (lordon had alreads' moved farther east to Wrightsville, which led to the burning of the bridge there as noted in the references to that place). Just as the courier arrived, Mr. Philip Small, father of Samuel Small, stepped up and said, "General, I will give you my draft on New York 56 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania tor the balance of the requisition, if you do not burn the shops, for that would start a fire which would destroy part of the town. We cannot now give you the currency, for all the bank deposits have been sent away." Early (after he read the orders from Ewell), told Mr. Small that he would consider his proposition the next morning. On two occasions in 1890, Mr. Prowell visited Early at his Lynchburg, Va., home. The Gen- eral handed the visitor from York an original printed copy of the address which he had intend- ed to circulate; but on account of his sudden re- call, it was never distributed. The only other original is now in the Library of Congress, Wash- ington. It may be interesting to read a verbatim copy of this proclamation, 57 years after it was prepared: York, Pa., June 30, 1S6.?. To the Cilizens of York: I have abstained from burning the railroad build- ings and carshops because after examination I am satisfied the safety of the town would be endangered; and, acting in the spirit of humanity, which has ever characterized my government and its military au- thorities, I do not desire to involve the innocent in the same punishment with the guilty. Had I ap- plied the torch without regard to consequences, I would have been fully vindicated as an act of just retaliation for many authorized acts of barbarity perpetrated by your own army upon our soil. But we do not war upon women and children, and I trust the treatment you have met with at the hands of my soldiers will open your eyes to the monstrous ini. Regula- tions for the National Military Parks, provides that, "No persons shall be permitted to offer their services or act as guides unless licensed for that purpose by the Commissioners thereof." ,'\ll ap- plicants are examined by the Commission, and must make an average of 75% in order to secure a license. Last SiRi-rtu Into Gettysblrc; One has hardly more than time to catch tin- general situation at a distance before noticing, on the left, the first historic marker in this locality. 1 hough the battlefield is still a considerable tlis- tance ahead, its related activities extended this far eastward along the York Pike. A wide up- right piece of granite, with a metal tablet facing the road, indicates the location of Camp Letter- man, the general field hospital. Medical Corps, Army of the Potomac, during the battle. It was named after Jonathan Letterman, Med- ical Director of that army, and was situated in the "hospital woods," just outside the zone of militarv operations. I he woods have disap- peareil, and the country here is now entirely open. I his hospital, in co-operation with seven subor- tlinate ones for infantry and one for cavalry, cared for about 20,000 Union and Confederate officers, soldiers and cavalrymen during and after the battle. 1 he motorist stopping to read the tablet will obtain a concrete idea of the total casualties be- fore reaching the central section, just south of which the principal fighting took place. A short distance beyond, the Western Maryland comes close to the right-hand side of the road, and con- tinues nearly parallel to the business center. During the war this was the only railroad to enter (iettysburg; it was then known as the Clertysburg & Hanover, and did not go farther west. The present name was given to it when a through route was developed from ^Ork and (Iettysburg to Hagerstown, connecting with the original line from Baltimore. Entering Gettysburg, one crosses Rock Creek, Through I-OR THE SECTION SOUTH OF THE THROUGH ROUTE AT GETTYS- (.0 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Howing southward past the eastern edge of the town, to form the general eastern boundary of the battlefield. This stream flows mtt) the Mono- cacy, and that into the Potomac above Harpers Ferry. We are now, and shall be until beyond Chambersburg, in the watershed of that river. On the opposite side of the Gettysburg High School, prominently on our left, the Hanover Road comes mto \ ork St., a short run along which brings one to the eastern side of the square, Get- tysburg. Briefs About the Town and Locality Previous to 1863, Gettysburg was known princi- pally as the "County Town," located in a fertile agricultural country, settled by thrifty people from the older counties in the eastern part of the State, with considerable numbers from Ireland, Scotland, England and Germany. After more than 50 years since the place itself has been al- most eclipsed by the battlefield whose name it took, one examines with curious interest the "Ge- ography of Pennsylvania," (Philadelphia, 1843), to find Gettysburg given scarcely more mention than New O.xford or Hanover. Its population was then about 2,000; and the only buildings noted were the Adams Co. Court House, Penn- sylvania College and Lutheran Theological Sem- inary. A comprehensive system of turnpikes had been developed, however, the results of which are read- ily seen today. A project had also been under- taken to extend the Philadelphia & Columbia R. R., then in operation between those points, through York and Gettysburg, to the partly fin- ished C. & O. Canal near Williamsport, Mary- land, and also to the B. &: 0. R. R. at Martins- burg, then in Virginia, now West Virginia. Sub- sequently that route was divided between the Western Maryland and Cumberland Valley rail- roads, connecting this section with Hagerstown and the Shenandoah valley. Sixty or more years ago, Gettysburg was a con- siderable manufacturing center for the time, while its location near extensive forests of oak, hickory, pine, ash and poplar developed a large lumber industry, now almost a thing of the past. Many Conestoga wagons, patterned after the staunch vehicles originated a short distance south of this route through Lancaster County, were built in this or surrounding villages. It is said that whereas most of those from the Conestoga country went to Pittsburgh or beyond the Ohio river, those manufactured in Gettysburg found their principal sale in Maryland and Vir- ginia. The earliest commercial affiliations of this GETTYSBURG BURG, SEE SEPARATE MAP OF THE BATTLEFIELD. PAGE 63 61 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania PLulo jtum titity^ltuifi i\ulionai I'ut k Cuinmission lABltr ON SITE OF GENERAL FIELD HOSPITAL First marker (l_^-milcs before reaching Center Square) seen by the westbound tourist running into Gettysburg from York. On the tabh-l is a Mst of the field hospitals of the eight corps participating in the three (lay's fight section were with points simth r;irlnr rluiii with those west, somewhat because most of the first travel and emigration from Philadelphia, Lan- caster and Columbia passed on to the Cumber- land vallev and the western parts of the State through what is now Harrisburg, instead ot through here. (lettysburg is located tarthei- south tli^iii the Hrst-time visitor is likely to imagine. The Mary- land boundary, coinciding there with the Mason and Dixon line, is only about 9 miles away as the crow flies. It is only about 55 miles by highway through Littlestown and Westminster to Balti- more, and less than 86 miles over the indirect route through Emmitsburg, Frederick and Ridge- ville to Washington. In its course westward from ^ ork. the highway makes a long gradual bend southw.ml, reaching its greatest deviation from the direct line at Clet- tysburg, and almost immediatels' thereafter it be- gins a corresponding northward bend toward Chambersburg antl Bedford. 1 hough this high- way and the main line of the Pennsylvania R. R. are to come together again at CJreensburg, less than 150 miles farther west, the latter is at the corresponding point following the Juniata river west from Harrisburg hilly 50 air-line miles north of (lettvsburg. 1 he distance covered bv Lee's army in its invasion of Maryland and Pennsvl- \ani.i during the summer of 1S6.?, and particu- larl\ on its retreat after the battle, is less than ordinarily supposed. 1 his locality was the ancestral home of the Studebaker family. The late J. M. Studebaker, Sr., son of a country blacksmith, was born Octo- ber 10, 1833, a few miles north of Ciettvsburg. He learned his trade, including, no doubt, the "setting" of tires on stage-coaclTes and freight- wagons, in this section, from which he emigrated to California in the early days of the gold excite- ment. 1 here he accumulated enough capital, largely by making wheelbarrows for miners, to enable him to move to South Bend, Indiana, and with his brother lay the foundations for the larg- est individual wagon business in the world. Mr. Studebaker died in March, 1917, after having witnessed the evolution of road trans- portation from the Conestoga wagon, averaging perhaps four or five miles an hour with the average load, to passenger and freight motor vehicles. lourists passing through Gettysburg often ask for directions to the old Studebaker homestead. A correspondent residing in the locality sends them in brief terms as follows: "From Ciettys- buig, go north 5 miles on the Harrisburg Road; at the Schriver farm, turn right 1 mile to Hiint- erstown. From the stjuare, Hunterstown. con- tinue north 2 miles to fork, where take the right- hand road. The Studebaker homestead, no lon- ger standing, was the first building on that road." The barn and the original Studebaker forge, the genesis of the great business now long established under that name, stood for some time after the house was torn down; but all of the buildings h:i\c since disappeared. /■ - '. i / . If. Oar*. S|n„^ . \ I . MONUMENT. Isl MINNESOTA INFANTRY It is an interesting fact that the relatively few soldiers from a State en- tering theUnion in 1858, should have sustained the greatest single losses at Gettysburg 62 GETTYSBl R(i:—A summary for the through tourist This Pennsylvania town owes its fame to the battle of July 1, 2 and 3, 1863, usually considered the high water-mark in the Civil \\ ar. 1 he location for this supremely important battle was not selected by either commander, but was brought on by mmor conflicts between widely separated forces of Lee's army, which had come up from Virginia through the Shenandoah Valley, and the Army of the Potomac, working northward on the "inside line" from the Rappahannock through Frederick, Maryland, into Pennsylvania. Beginning in the forenoon of July 1, along the Chambersburg Pike, just west of Gettysburg, the fight, to which new forces were gradually added on both sides, was brought first into the town, and then transferred to the mam battlefield mimediately south of it. On the afternoon of Julv 3, occurred Pick- ett's famous charge, "the high tide ot the Confederacy in arms." Beaten in that charge, and seeing no way to win the battle, Lee gathered his shattered remnants, and that night began the retreat to the Potomac. The losses at Gettysburg have been the subject of controversy, especially on the Confederate side. In fairly satisfactory round numbers, the Federals lost 23,000 out of 93,000 engaged; the Confederates 22,500 out of 80,000, besides 5,400 prisoners. The greatest single losses were sustained by the 1st Min- nesota regiment, not as usually supposed, by the men engaged in Pickett's charge. GENERAL MAP OF THE GETTYSBURG BATTLEFIELD Prepared by Ihe Gettysburg National Park Commission Col. John P Nicholson .Chairman Lt. Coll. B. Cope, Engineer. Redrawn on reduced scale by arrangement with ttie Commission . 63 The Lincaln Highway in Pennsylvania On November 19, 1863, the cemetery at Gettysburg was dedicated, furnishinu the occasion for President Lincoln's Gettysburg Address. The "brief remarks," intended then principally to add offi- cial character to the program, composed largely of a long and able address by Edward Everett, have become as widely known as the battle. Practically from that time to this, the work of enlarging, im- proving and marking the field has been going on, until nearly the whole area covered in the three day's fight has been made a National memorial to the soldiers of the North and South. Pbotogra[-b lopyrigbl hy Tipton, Cettysburg SOLDIERS' NATIONAL MONUMLN l lo ALL RLGULAR COMMANDS, NATIONAL CEMETERY, GETTYSBURG Erected in 1S(1*\ on the exact spot where Abr-lhiini Lincoln delivered the Geltysburg Address. November 10, l8o3; view from top of New ^'ork State monument. The small stones in rows on the left-hand side of the picture represent graves of unidentified soldiers "Nor shall their valor he forgot While Jame her record keeps." I with uncovered head Salute the sarred dead Who went, and returned not. — Lowell. 64 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Chapter \ — From (leHyshurg to Chambershurff — 243^ Miles Through the western end of the battlefield, and across South Mountain into the CAimberland Valley. The first three miles out of Gettysburg toward the west are within the battlefield area; and sev- eral landmarks along the roadside will recall the fighting on the first and second days. From the Square at the business center, the tourist follows Main, or Chambersburg St., crossing Washington St.: and one square farther on comes to a promi- nent fork, where the Lincoln Highway branches diagonally right, while Sprmgs Ave. continues a short distance straight ahead. The latter starts a connecting road from this route to Fairfield, Waynesboro and Hagerstown, using a section of Springs Ave. and a short piece of Confederate Ave., into the Hagerstown Road, farther out than we can see it. In the fork, just as we curve right, is the monu- ment erected by Pennsylvania to represent Co. A, 26th Kmergency Regiment, on the roll of which were the names of more than half the students of Gettysburg College. This was the first company to respond to the call of Gov. Curtin for volun- teers to assist in opposing the Confederate inva- sion of the North in the early summer of 1R63. Hastily gathered militia, of which this was a part, corresponded somewhat to the various "Home Guards" raised locally by several states as reserve forces during the world war. The boyish figure was designed to recall the "Minute Man" of Lexington, Mass.; and to em- phasize the fact that these college youth were as prompt to hear the call for volunteers as the men and boys of 1775. On the spot where it is now located, the "College Company" formed before it marched out to meet the Confederate forces then coming eastward along this same road toward Gettysburg. Adjutant Harvey W. McKnight of that regiment (class of '65), afterwards became president of Pennsylvania College. Over to the right, beyond the Western Mary- land Railway, is Pennsylvania Hall, oldest build- ing in the college group, on the highest ground in the immediate locality. In the forenoon of July 1, several Union officers used its tower for obser- vations. During the afternoon, the fighting raged not only along the main highway, but also through these grounds, which were between Sem- inary Ridge and the Mummasburg, Carlisle and Harrisburg roads north of the town, and thus traversed by the contending forces. Gen. Lee, who had come over South Mountain eastward from Cashtown by the next tew miles of our route, was quick to take advantage ot this lookout after the Federal cavalry, which had opened the battle, and the infantry, brought up hastily to support it, had both been driven back into or east of the town by superior numbers of Confederate infantry. During the further pro- gress of the battle and for several months after- wards, this building was used for hospital pur- poses, caring for the wounded on both sides. The national commission in charge of the 50th anni- versary celebration had its headquarters on the campus of this college, July 1-4, 1913. Landmarks Along the Chambersburg Pike Back of the monument to the memory of the young college soldier is the Meade School, a large brick building, named after the Union general; we leave it on the left and cross the Round Top branch, Harrisburg & Gettysburg (Reading) R.R. On Seminary Ridge, a short distance south of the highway, are the old and the new buildings ot the Lutheran Theological Seminary, an institution dating back to 1825, and from which the famous ridge was named. The cupola of the older build- ing was the first Union lookout, where Gen. Bu- ford met Gen. Reynolds on the morning of July 1, early in the first day's fight; though afterwards Pennsylvania Hall, of Gettysburg College, the Court House and other buildings in the town were used for the same purpose. On the left-hand side, almost exactly a mile from the Square, Gettysburg, is the small old stone building widely but incorrectly known as Lee's headquarters after his arrival in the neigh- borhood about 4 P. M., on July 1. In front of it, facing the road, is a "C. S. A." marker, reading as follows: "In this field was located the headquar- ters of the Armv of Northern Virginia, lulv 1, 2, 3 and 4, 1863."' This is supplemented by a quotation taken, probably, from some later document, "My head- quarters were in tents in an apple orchard back of the Seminary, along the Chambersburg Pike, R. E. Lee." Neither the tablet itself nor the quota- tion just given mentions the building; and most of the story about it is traditional. During the next 48 hours after he reached this locality, the Confederate commander was at many places throughout the battle area W. H. Tipton, the wartime photographer, writes as follows: The house kiioivn as "Lee's headquarters" was oc- cupied by an old lady named Thompson. When I photographed it after the battle, she said that a Con- federate officer with his staff called and asked if she would prepare a lunch for them. While this was be- ing done, he wrote and sent off a few orders, .^fter lunch another order was written and sent as before. When ready to leave, one of the officers asked what her charges were. She replied "nothing." the offi- cer then said, "Gen. Lee and the rest of us have en- joyed the excellent meal you prepared, and the Gen- eral w'ishes that you be paid for it." She refused to 65 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania accept any payment; but riiiucstid that she ami her property be protected. Mrs. 1 hompson said that Lee was in her house about ai» hour. Monuments and markers are now so freciiant along and nearby both sides of the highway that none attract particular attention until we come to the equestrian figure of (Jen. Reynolds, on the north side, about a third mile west of Lee's "headquarters." 1 hat monument, a statue of the cavalry commander, Cien. John Buford, the mon- ument of the 2nd Maine Battery part-way between them; and, across the road, markers to the 149th Pennsylvania Infantry and Battery A, 2nd U. S. Artillery, form a sightly, distinctive and notable group. 1 he most conspicuous among them Reynolds mounted — recalls a somewhat sunilar one just mside the esplanade along the north side of the City Hall. Philadelphia. Gen. Reynolds was killed in front of the woods on the Mcpherson farm, a short distance south ot this portion of the highway; subsequently the name was changed to Reynolds Woods. 1 he grove, identified by a marker, is visible to one on the lookout for it from our route. Between the highway and Reynolds Woods is the statue of John Burns, the old man who fought as a citizen, and other monuments. In this vicinity the battle of Gettysburg was begun, by Calef's Battery, Co. A, 2nd U. S. Artillery, though there is some difference of opin- ion even on that point. During one of the large gatherings connected with the .iOth anniversary celebration, July, 19I.i, participating veterans stoutly claimed that honor for both Pennsylvania and New \'ork; and one speaker predicted that, "it will never be knovyn positively who started the battle." A short distance beyond this group of land- marks, the highway crosses a small stone bridge over W'illoughby Run. On the left, in the first corner beyond the stream, is a farmhouse, form- Edward Pauscb, ^culplor. i*bolo jfrom ijeltysburg Nalionai Fark Commission SOLDIER, 2bth PENNSYLVANIA EMERGENCY REGIMENT Located in angle formed by Lincoln Highway branching right, in leav- ing Gettysburg for the long straightaway toward the west WIDELY KNOWN AS "LEE'S HEADQUARTERS" Small old stone dwelling, on south side of main highway west of Get- tysburg, where Gen. Lee and his staff were served with a lunch by Mrs. Thompson erly Herr's Tavern, named from the original owner, and kept at the time of the battle by Jacob Mickley. There \yere several other taverns in the Gettysburg section before the railway era, particularly on the routes leading in from Balti- more and out towards Chambersburg. Usually they were located at intervals of a mile or less; practically all of them have either been disman- tled or are now private residences. Last Views of the Battlefield Area Starting two squares west of the center of Get- tysburg, an S-mile straightavyay of the Lincoln Highvyay ascends a gradual grade, from along vyliich ;ire interesting glimpses of the town and enyirons. One who has already identified the principal topographical features. Gulp's Hill, Cemetery Hill, the Round lops and Seminary Ridge, will find these final views of great interest; and the preliminary military movements will be more thoroughly ' understood from these new points of vantage. Passing through this locality, the tourist will see Gettysburg as the soldiers in Lee's army did when they are said to have liter- ally darkened the road from South Mountain to the fair landscapes, soon to be turned into a world- famous battlefield. Over to the right, almost parallel with the high- way but in a deep cut for considerable distance, is the W'estern Maryland Railway. Projected about 1840 to connect south-central Pennsylva- nia with Hagerstown, Md., the Potomac river and the Baltimore & Ohio R. R., this line, aban- doned for a long period, came to be known face- tiously as "the Tape-worm." Early in the battle of Gettysburg, part of the contest was carried across this cut; and several markers are north ot it. .'Xfter the war, the project was revived on a sounder basis; and what is now the Gettysburg line of the W'estern Maryland was built through I-';iirfield and Waynesboro to Hagerstown. Gettysburg has begun to grow dim in the dis- tance before we come to the last few markers on the western end of the battlefield. Three miles out, we note on the north side of the highway a tablet upon which it is stated that Capt. Jones, 66 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania //. K. Busb-Broun, sculptor. Photo Jrom ( ^t!t\ •Inn ^ .\ational Park Commission MAJOR-GEN. JOHN FULTON REYNOLDS. U. S. V. Commander 1st Corps, Army of the Potomac. This monument is along the Lincoln Highway, within a short distance of the spot where the gen- eral was killed in the first day's fight with Sergt. Shafer's Carbine Co. E, 8th Illinois Cavalry, Gamble's Brigade, fired the first shot at 7:30 A. M., July 1, 1863. That conflicts in some details with what we have learned heretofore; and especially when running otF the field, the av- erage tourist is content to leave such points to the critics. Our attention is arrested for a moment, how-, ever, by the last tablet of all, on the north side of the highwav about l-3rd mile west of the Capt. Jones marker. This perpetuates the memory of the 26th Pennsylvania Emergency Infantry, of which the "college company," already mentioned, was a part. Here, on the morning of June 26rh, that regiment met the Confederate advance, Early's division of Ewell's corps, marching from South Mountain toward the Susquehanna river, as described in the Columbia-Wrightsville-York section. Brushing aside that slight resistance. Early pushed rapidly through, stopping at Gettysburg, later that same day, long enough to assess a ran- som, but not waiting to collect it. Minor casual- ties among the hastily assembled volunteers at this outpost, June 26, were the first in the battle- field area. The Confederate corps commander returned a few days later to put his men into the fight; but the ^10,000 in cash and large quantity of provisions he expected to secure were never again demanded. Beyond the farthest marker, the highway is carried over Marsh creek by a low stone and rail- fence bridge; about a i o m'le farther on it crosses the Western Maryland Railway for the last time. After following for several miles southwest along the eastern base of South Mountain, the railroad winds through that range below Fairfield, Pa., nearby where Lee's retreating armies crossed it on their way back to the Potomac. From thence, it continues through Hagerstown to Antietam, linking together Gettysburg and Antietam, the turning points of the two Confederate invasions of the North (1862 and 1863). We are now beyond the battlefield area, though still in the zone of military movements leading up to Gettysburg. Just west of where the railroad turns off, the highway passes through the hamlet of Seven Stars, named from an old tavern, upon whose sign seven stars were once displayed. McKnightstown, a village about two miles farther on, was named from the owner of the tract of land upon which it was located. Up to and Through Cashtown Looking ahead, the tourist may now begin to see in the distance the eastern entrance to South Mountain gap, occupied by Cashtown village, into which the highway comes without deviating from a straight line since leaving Gettysburg. This is the most direct section of its length between Philadelphia and Pittsburgh, recalling the "Long Stretch" on the Nation.il Road west of Frost- burg, Maryland, though the latter is less than half as long as this approach to South Mountain from the east. On the wide expanse of nearly level ground in front of the gap, or pass, Lee hoped and planned to fight the battle which took place at Gettysburg; and in fact wrote, as late as the morning of July 1, from his camp west of South Mountain, to the cavalry leader, Imboden, "My headquarters for the present will be at Cashtown, east of the mountain." J. E. Ketly. sculptor, Pboto jrom Gettysburg National Park Commission MAJOR-GEN. JOHN BUFORD. U. S. CAV. North side of Lincoln Highway, near the equestrian statue of Gen. Rey- nolds, and in the midst of the locality where the first day's fight started 67 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania The strategy of this plan becomes apparent from even passing observation of the locality. Back of a strong Confederate army concentrated at this point would have been a natural, easily- traveled highway to and from the Cumberland Valley, rising very gradually from 745 feet at Cashtown to 1,334 feet at the highest point, a short 4 miles almost directly west. Had the Army of the Potomac faced i>ee here, on groimds chosen by him, the Army of Northern N'irginia might have overcome it, and continued east and southeast, taking I'hiladelphia. Baltimore and Washington. If defeated m such a position, Lee could have held this long narrow gap with a small force, moving his main army back into the Cumberland Valley, and thence to the Potomac crossings. But that was not to be, for Heth's division, the ad- vance of A. P. Hill's corps, had already pushed on to the eastern edge of (Jettysburg. encounter- ing Buford's Union cavalry. The battle was then on — at a place less favorable for the Confed- erates; and Cashtown just missed its only chance to become famous. As soon as he learned the real situation, Lee galloped eastward over the 7 miles from Cash- town to Seminary Ridge, arriving at the western end of the battlefield in the afternoon of July 1, as recalled in connection with the first day's tight. Though much shorter, that ride must have been at least as dramatic as Sheridan's, in the Shenan- doah valley, somewhat more than a year later. In an hour of supreme responsibility, his plans had to be largely re-made to cope with new and unexpected developments over a large area. This is our last backward glance at Gettysburg, though in running through the gap to Chambers- burg, we will pass the locations where oncoming corps and divisions of the Confederate army camped or halted on their way eastward. On the evening of June 29, Heth's division ot A. P. Hill's corps was here at Cashtown, Hill's other two divisions being either en route through the gap, or in camps west of the mountain. Still farther west, but likewise marching east, were two divisions of Longstreet's corps, Pickett's division having been left at Chambersburg to guard the trains and keep open communication until brought to (lettvsburg to make the fatal charge of July 3. A point of local interest at Cashtown is "Rock Top," a high knob on the eastern face ot South Mountain, a short distance north of the highway, commanding an extensive and beautiful view of the surrounding country, especially eastward. The lookout established on the summit before the military movements through here in 1S63, is still maintained. It was used for observation pur- poses by the Confederates. Crossing South Mount.mn 1 he next few miles mark the first great topo- graphic change in the character of the route. Practically from the Philadelphia suburban dis- trict, we have traversed a rich agriculriiral sec- tion, clotted like a vast map with prosperous cities and attractive villages. .Many hills have been seen, but no mountains; woods almost without number, but no extensive forests. Now we run into a mountain region covered with forests as dense as most of those in the western part of the state. South Mountain is the name in south-central Pennsylvania and adjoining parts of Maryland tor the extension of the true Blue Ridge moun- tains of Virginia north of the i'otomac. It is the low eastern front, in this section, of the Allegha- nies. In Maryland, some distance below our route, this range divides into two parts, the west- erly one, still known as South Mountain, extend- ing to the Potomac at Weverton, just east of Har- per's Ferry, and the other, a smaller ridge, a few miles east, known as Catoctin Mountain, sloping to that river near Point of Rocks. 1 he Blue .Mountains, or Kittatinny range, extending from northeastern Pennsylvania across the Delaware river into western New Jersey and the Hudson highlands, are part of the same system, separated from South .Mountain by the wide and low Sus- quehanna valley. In their long diagonal course from the Hudson valley across the Delaware, Susquehanna and Potomac rivers to southwestern \ irginia, these ranges decrease gradually in height through south- central Pennsylvania and the Piedmont section of Maryland, which fact has been of great practical and historical value in the development ot travel from Philadelphia, Harrisburg, Baltimore and W ashington to the west. Lhrough their conven- iently located passes, the National Road, the Lincoln Highway and the NN'illiam Penn Highway are provided with natural and comparatively easy gateways to the Ohio river, the first large west- ward-flowing waterway. Instead of being a well-defined, bulky range with a sharp ascent on one side and a corres- ponding descent on the other, like most of those farther west. South .Mountain is here an aggre- gate of high hills and low mountains, separated across the entire width by this strategic pass. For most of the 4 miles from Cashtown to the crest, the grade is so gradual that one hardly no- tices the climb; in the opposite direction, it is a long easy coast. The battle of South Mountain was fought Sept. 14. 1S62. in Turner's Gap, between Middletown and Boonsboro, .Maryland, about 30 miles al- most due south of our present route over the same range in Pennsylvania. At that time the Con- federate forces, which had crossed the Potomac and come up along the line of the Monocacy river to Frederick, were hurrying from east to west of the Blue Ridge toward Harper's F"erry. with the Arnu of the Potomac under McClellan in slow pursuit. Three days later the battle of .Antietam ended Lee's first invasion of Maryland. It is interesting to note that nearly ten months later, larger Confederate armies, brought up from N'irginia through the Shenandoah valley and across the Potomac into the Cumberland valley, 68 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania crossed from west to east of the Blue Ridge over this route, much farther north than was reached by the 1862 campaign. They met no opposition here on South Mountain, but continued their march to Gettysburg, where the second invasion was turned hack. In the early days, iron mines and furnaces were in operation at various points on and about this range, particularly at Caledonia, on the western side; and considerable money was spent in devel- oping the extensive deposits known to exist in the region. But the difficulty of smelting the ores with anv heat then at command, the discovery of larger quantities in the Northwest, and inade- quate transportation facilities, led to their aban- donment long ago. There is no railroad for sev- eral miles east or west; and the highway is today, as a hundred years ago, the only means of trans- portation across this stretch. After the failure of the iron business here, the State made an advan- tageous purchase of about 15,000 acres, now part of the Caledonia Forest Reserve. Large areas on and about South Mountain are still covered with virgin forests; apparently very little lumbering has been done in this region. More than a half century ago, considerable of this timberland was held by owners of blast furnaces along the middle Susquehanna river, as a reserve of wood for making charcoal. But the change to anthracite coal as fuel, left these great tracts prac- tically untouched, whereas many extensive wood- land areas farther west have been almost ruined by ruthless lumbering. Descent Into the Cumberland Valley About two miles west of Cashtown, nearly half- way up the pass, is the hamlet of Willow Grove, elevation 954 feet. From here a reverse fork on. the right leads eastward to Mummasburg and Gettysburg, entering that town from the north. This route, once known locally as the "old York Road," antedating the corresponding section of the present main highway, laid out to shorten the distance from the pass of South Mountain to points east, is still used considerably by local trav- el. The side-road branching left at "Willow- Grove" leads to Fairfield and Waynesboro. Running up through this pass from the east, one follows most of the way a small tributary of Marsh creek, flowing southeast into Antietam creek, and that into the Potomac east of Hagers- town. Somewhere near the top, the little stream unexpectedly disappears into the mountain re- cesses, farther from the highway. Having gone over the crest, however, one comes almost at once along the first small stream flowing west into Conococheague creek, which after a long roundabout course north and west of our route, also reaches the Potomac, a short distance west of Hagerstown. At the height of the pass is a small settlement, Newman, where the main highway is crossed by a north-and-south road. To the right, at the east- ern foot of Piney Mountain, is the picturesque Buchanan valley. About three miles down the left-hand road was a famous resort known before the Civil War as the Caledonia Springs Hotel. Only the foundations remain; the patronage it once enjoyed has found more accessible places. We now descend into the Cumberland valley, the next predominant geographical feature of our route. In the three miles from the crest of the mountain to Caledonia, the drop is from 1,334 feet to 944, but so gradual as to make an agreea- ble coast, mostly through cool woods. The road is remarkably straight considering the character ot the country. Nearing the western end of the pass, one will notice summer homes and camps at advantageous points, owned principally by Cham- bersburg people. On the right-hand side, near the foot of the western slope, is Piney Mountain Inn, compara- tively new, named after the mountain back of it. Farther along, also on the right, is Graefenburg Inn, an older but attractive place. The latter, situated almost underneath Graefenburg Hill, from which it was named, and also on the Hne be- tween Adams Co. on the east and Franklin Co. on the west, is quite a landmark. In the olden days, when liquor permits were issued by the counties, there was occasional trouble over the license at this place, quite a different hotel from now. When the authorities of one county would come to the old inn, the proprietor would move his stock of liquors to the opposite end of the bar, in the other county; it is not recorded that they ever came at the same time from the two directions. From Graefenburg Hill, rising several hundred feet above the roadway, and other elevations in this vicinity, many fine views, especially eastward into Adams Co., may be had. The former P. O. here was named after Graefenburg, Austria, by Hon. Edward McPherson, father of Judge Donald McPherson, of Gettysburg. It was once a popular resort, widely known for its springs. Approaching Caledonia Park, one will notice on the right (north) side, a small mountain stream, along which is a charming rhododendron walk about a mile in length. This is a beautiful sight in almost anv season; but when the rhododendron is in full bloom, usually the latter part of June, a roadside stop and the short walk necessary to see it to best advantage, will be well repaid. An Old-Time Iron Manufacturing Village Now we come to a small iron bridge over another stream, which enters from the left (south) side of the road, and runs into Conococheague creek a few yards over to the right (north) side. On the left, immediately beyond that bridge, is the frame building used for an office by the Caledonia Iron Co. before the Civil War. In this considerable enterprise for that time, Thaddeus Stevens, the "great commoner," was the principal factor if not practically the owner. When Stevens came to Lancaster from Gettys- burg (1842), he was a man of limited means, but became in time leader of the County bar. His large and lucrative practice was supplemented by a notable legislative career lasting until his death 69 :S Z w tiJ " Z^ UJ X -, ^ rz ^ L. -^ 5 UJ ^ '- —* rs ^ z 2C < rt >. N 'c 3 3 ?- rt = < ra ^' — <5 rt Zo > -Z o i_< rt -z ai Os: ■1/ DO CH ■^ xz: p — t/) in< Z^ 1, J= D « H x UJ > UJ ^ s 70 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania in 1868. The iron business was a side-issue with him; the nearby plant, using ores all mined in the locality, was for at least part of the time conduct- ed at considerable loss. When the Confederates passed through here on their way from Chambersburg to Gettysburg, they burned the iron works, because of Stevens' ownership or large interest, knowing him to be a prominent abolitionist. Judge Landis, of Lan- caster, has a letter written July 7, 1863, to O. J. Dickey, Esq., of that city, in which Stevens speaks of "my ashes," and mentions intending to go over and "see their color." His summer home stood about 100 yards from the south side ot the road, west of the former office building. In the '80s, it was occupied by Napo- leon Underwood and his son, typical mountain- eers, old employees of Stevens, then caretakers for the iron works estate. They and a few other characters of that period are still remembered by people in the locality and in Chambersburg. That building was subsequently removed, but the well on the grounds is still used. Perhaps ten or twelve other houses, once occu- pied by employees, and the long frame stables (in which the mules used in the works were quar- tered), located between the site of the former Stevens house and the highway, have also been re- moved. The blacksmith shop, entirely remod- eled, is now a local station for the electric railway between Chambersburg and Caledonia Park. The iron interests of Thaddeus Stevens in this section recall the great but futile efforts of himself and group of friends, over eighty years ago, to ex- tend the State-owned railroad, then connecting Philadelphia and Lancaster, with the Susque- hanna navigation system at Columbia, through ^\)rk, Gettysburg and Waynesboro, and across Maryland to the Potomac, which would have made an east-to-southwest route through these lands. There was keen rivalry between that pro- ject and the Cumberland Valley R.R., then in the process of formation. Stevens had official and political advantages, but a more natural and eas- ier route, only a little longer, was from Harrisburg through Carlisle and Chambersburg, as finally built. In 1838, Stevens, already a canal commissioner, became president of the State board, and used his great influence in favor of the Gettysburg route, against the report of the legislative committee favoring the Cumberland Valley, on account of easier country to build through and greater ex- pected traffic. About ;S700,000 of State funds were spent on the project before work was sus- pended in 1839, and the Cumberland Valley line pushed to completion. When, much later, a rail- way was constructed beyond Gettysburg, it turned southwest at Seven Stars, east of Cashtown, leav- ing the former Stevens lands without transporta- tion, exactly as they were decades before. In a Great Forest Reserve The Pennsylvania State Forest Reserve in this section contains approximately 65,000 acres, 71 mostly on the western slopes of South Mountain. Though close to both sides of the road for three or four miles, a comparatively small part actually fronts on the highway, the nearer portions having been set aside for residences and improvements. At two points (about 1-mile east, and also about 1-mile west of the bridge at Caledonia), the road is upon State land. This reserve is open for hunting, fishing and camping, the latter by permission of the State Forestry Reservation Commission, Harrisburg. Stringent rules about fires, destruction of timber or shrubbery, etc., are in force within its limits. I he forests are principally of red, white and Scotch pine, Norway spruce, chestnut, white oak, rock oak, maples and a great deal of scrub oak. Dr. Joseph T. Rothrock, of West Chester, Pa., formerly Commissioner of Forestry, and president emeritus of the Pennsylvania Forestry Associa- tion, suggests a side-trip to the State Tubercular Sanitarium, almost due south of Caledonia Park, and to the Forest Academy, some distance west; this can be made, if desired, without returning to Caledonia. Being personally unacquainted with the locality south of the main highway there, the author gladly makes room herewith for a conden- sation of Dr. Rothrock's directions: At Caledonia, avoid left-hand road on eastern (Gettys- burg) side of bridge; cross to west (Chambersburg) side, and turn left at the corner where the old office building stands. Follow upstream, a very easy grade, on wide, usually good dirt road about 4-miles to an ice-pond, where road forks. Left leads to the Sanatorium (1600 feet ele- vation), which has 1,050 free beds for citi7ens of the State. Right descends through about three miles of attractive mountain scenery to the State Forest Academy, where we train young foresters. In summer, from Caledonia to the Forest Academy is good dirt road. From the Academy back to the Sanito- rium, It is a well-built road for heavy hauling, good all- year. Mont Alto proper, a mile beyond the .'\cademy, is duectly on the shortest route to Waynesboro and Hagers- town. A State road is building, or to be built, from Waynesboro to Mont .'\lto. Last season there was an almost continuous line of touring cars between Caledonia and the Forest Academy. Some continued on to Waynes- boro; others went via Mont Alto to Chambersburg, and still others rejoined the Lincoln Highway at Fayetteville. 1 his provides an alternate route between Waynesboro and Gettysburg, if one prefers it to the route over Blue Ridge Summit. Going over the route via the Sanatorium, you observe to excellent advantage the State's forest and health activi- ties, and pass through the portion of our forests best stocked with deer. On a recent trip, we saw, going and coming, seven wild deer at large. During the December hunting season, probably 75 deer were shot in the region traversed by this road. The route is already a favorite side-trip, and worthy of mention. From the Forest Acad- emy to Fayetteville, the road (three miles), though never very good, is not very bad. The new road from Mont .Alto to Waynesboro will connect the region from Gettys- burg through Caledonia to Hagerstown by a new and very attractive thoroughfare. In and About Black Gap The highway emerges from the western end of the pass through South Mountain at Black Gap, a small village originally called Black's Gap, after Robert Black, an early settler, by whom the road which crosses the main highway at the store in the village was laid out in 1750. During the Civil The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania War, it was known as Cireenwood, the temporary headciuarters of (Jen. Lee just before he went east over this route during the alternoon of July 1. 1863, to assume personal command of the Confed- erate forces at Gettysburg. Through here passed A. P. Hill's corps, soon followed by two divisions of Longstreet's corps. Considerably later, came Pickett's division, the last to get into the fight from this direction, marching to defeat and last- ing fame. During this great movement (ireen- wood, as It was alwavs referred to in the dispatches and records of that time, was a strategic point, like Cashtown, at the eastern approach to the pass. Through here, also, marched Early's division of Powell's corps on its way through (lettysburg and York to the Susquehanna river before the concentration of Confederate troops at Gettys- burg. Coming up trom the Potomac, this divis- ion did not continue all the way from Hagerstown northeast along the Cumberland valley to Cham- bersburg with l.ee's main columns; but left that route in the vicinity of Marion station, about mid- way between Greencastle and Chambersburg, following a short-cut through here into the pass between Black Ciap and Cashtown. After the battle of (jettysburg, the greater part of Lee's army retreated through Fairfield and Waynesboro to Hagerstown. But some detach- ments started west through the Sciuth Mountain pass, turning nearly direct south at Greenwood (Black Gap), through a small valley, which may be seen over to the left, to Waynesboro, instead of taking the longer way back through Chambers- burg, as the most of them had come. .Artillery, SLippK' wagons and hospital trains were driven across-fields from here toward the Maryland line at a number of places; str;igglers continued into Chambersburg and even as tar as McConnells- burg. A short distance west of Black (Jap, we pass through the old village of Kayetteville, named at the time of establishing the P. O. in 1826, after Gen. Lafayette, who had not long before finished his memorable visit to the United States. In 1768, Edward Crawford, a large land-owner of Fayetteville, and others, petitioned the County Court for a road to extend from Black's Gap to a point near Loudon, on the way to McConnells- burg. This was granted in 1772, and in the course of rime became pr;ictic;ill\- the route of the pres- ent highwav between those points. 1 he Craw- ford f;imilv has ever since been a prominent one in the locality. L.AST Stretch into Chambersburg At Fayetteville, the side-trip from Caledonia past the State Sanatorium and Forest Academy, outlined in e:irlier p;ir;igraphs. returns to this main line from the south. \\ e cross the W aynes- borough branch, Cumberland \';illey R. R., ;it Fayetteville station; over to the right beyond this point, one may see Conococheague creek, making a long loop north before returning to our route again, just west of Chambersburg. Stonehenge, soon passed on the right, toniurls known as StaufFerstown, from a family of that name, was a village of some importance in the olden days. One of the landmarks still remem- bered was the .StaufFerstown I avern, since re- placed by a private dwelling. When made a P. (J., to avoid contusion and give distinctness, the well-known English name of Stonehenge was adopted. At the eastern edge of Chambersburg where the trolley, followed from Caledonia, takes the center ot the road, a hospital will be seen on the right. .•\lmost directly opposite (left-hand side), stood during the Civil War, a grove, entirely removed since, called Shelter's woods, in which were Gen. Lee's headquarters the night before he went east to Gettysburg. At the prominent fork a little farther along, we continue straight ahead (leav- ing the trolley, which shortly returns to the main route), along Lincoln Highway East, Chambers- burg, passing under the stone arch which carries the Cumberland N'alley R.R. above the street, nearby the station and the large office building of that railroad, both on the right, and come to the square at the center of Chambersburg. \ isitors with some leisure will find this a very interesting place. On the right, at the corner where Lincoln Highway East is broken by the S(]uare, is the Franklin Co. Court House. In the northern part, on the way out toward Carlisle and Harrisburg, is Wilson College for Women. The antiquarian may be interested to look at the site of Fort Chambers, at the confluence of Conococheague creek and Falling Spring, though nothing now remains to remind one of the old frontier defense and stronghold. Nearly seventy years ago, .Madiera's edge-tool factory was one ol the most celebrated of its kind in the United States; the walls of the building it occupied still stand near the Western Maryland depot, along the creek opposite the woolen mill, on part of the old fort property. IhK StR.^TEGIC CUMBERI-.'VND \aI.I.KV At Chambersburg this route completes its de- scent into the Cumberland valley, extending from the western slopes of South Mountain, near Cal- edonia, to the eastern sides of North and Cove mountains, a few miles farther west. Broadly speaking, it divides the scenic highlands charac- teristic of the section from Phihulelphia here, from the mount;iinous region continuing, with in- cidental interruptions, the remaining distance to Pittsburgh. Though now^ approximately in the center of the State, we are only 620 feet a bove sea- level; but from now on, elevations will average higher to the Alleghany summits, beyond which the prevailing slopes will be toward the Ohio river. 1 he Cumberland valley is the Pennsylvania section of the great .Appalachian vallev. which ex- tends from the Suscjuehanna at Harrisburg diag- onally southwest through Maryland, eastern \\ est \ irginia and \'irginia to Cumberland Gap, where southwestern Virginia corners on northeastern Tennessee. Though but a fraction of the width of the Sus(iuehanna vallev, recenclv crossed, it 72 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania has been of at least equal historic interest. In the early days of emigration, before east-and-west roadways were developed across the Alleghany ranges in Pennsylvania and Maryland, its south- westerly course made it of vast importance. One result of the considerable early emigration which followed in that direction through the Cum- berland-Shenandoah valley, was that Boone's Wilderness Road antedated both the National Road and the Philadelphia-Pittsburgh Pike; and Kentucky, largely settled over it, was admitted into the Union more than ten years before Ohio. In time, these two shorter routes from tidewater to the Ohio river passed the Wilderness Road in national importance. Instead of being followed anv considerable distance by westbound travel, the Cumberland valley is now simply crossed, at Hagerstown, by the National Road, and here at Chambersburg by the Lincoln Highway, succes- sor of the Philadelphia-Pittsburgh Pike. This is one of the most fertile, best-kept sec- tions of the State; beautiful, highly-cultivated farms are seen from the highway, and a much larger number of them are along the valley, reached by a side-trip either north or south from Chambersburg. Most of this region has a lime- stone foundation, and the soil is permeated with iron ores. In the valley the land is usualK' gently rolling; and the whole is almost literally walled in by the mountain ranges on both sides. It is a well-watered section, with small streams often visible from the highway. An Old and Historic Settlement Joseph and Benjamin Chambers, emigrants from Antrim County, Ireland, came into this sec- tion, then the western frontier, about 1730, and located at the point where Falling Spring dis-_ charges into Conococheague creek, about one square north of our route through Chambersburg. Joseph did not remain, but Benjamin did, and be- came the founder of what was known for many years as "Conococheague settlement," named after the stream, and that from an Indian word said to mean "Indeed a long way," which its winding character makes very appropriate. Chambers, attracted to this section by vivid descriptions of a hunter, decided upon the loca- tion largely on account of the water power avail- able here. A man of enterprise, he soon erected a hewed log house, covered with lapped shingles, fastened by nails; this is said to have been burned during his absence by a hunter for the sake of the nails, difficult to secure on the frontier in those days. By clearing new lands, building houses and taking advantage of the miUsites, Chambers became the leader in that section of the Province. What IS known in Pennsylvania frontier his- tory as Fort Chambers was erected here in 1756 as a protection against Indian raids from the west after Braddock's defeat in 1755. It stood just west of North Main St., midway between Market and King streets, the stockade enclosing the mouth ot the spring. Built of stone, and the roof lined with lead (imported from England], to pre- vent its being set on fire by flaming Indian arrows, this was considered the safest fort in that part of the country. In addition to the ordinary fire-arms of that time, it had a blunderbus and swivel, a combina- tion which kept the Indians at respectful distance. Not long after the fort was built. Provincial au- thorities became apprehensive that the French ;md Indians might capture and turn these weap- ons against the other settlements. Whereupon a demand was made for them; but Chambers re- fused to surrender them, and was so well sup- I'ImIo Kikin Miinh, 1920 DAVID EBV, CHAMBERSBURG, PA. Born December 1, 1830; a waRoner over the "Old Turnpike," 1849-'53, and one of the few survivals of that period now living along it. In Au- gust 1908, Mr. Eby refreshed the memories of his youth by walking from Chambersburg to Pittsburgh, at an average of about 20 miles per day ported by his neighbors that they were allowed to be kept as long as needed. The fort was suc- ceeded by a strawboard mill owned and operated by Dr. Samuel D. Culbertson & Sons; its site is now occupied by a woolen mill. Col. Chambers, whose title came from a com- mand he held in the Provisional militia, was too old to enlist in the Revolutionary War, but three of his sons joined the Continental army at Bos- ton. The old pioneer, however, lived to see the establishment of independence, and died Febru- ary 17, 1788, about sixty years after he had crossed the ocean to make his home in tar interior Pennsylvania. From that settlement has come 73 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania the Chambersbiirg of today, the name very ap- propriately commemorating the founder and the old tort erected In him. In SrA(;i:-c()ACM and Tavern Days Ihe location of Chambershurg, on both the Philadelphia-Pittsburgh Pike, and the main route through the Cumberland valley, made it an im- portant stopping place for travel during the stage-coach era. IDay'.s "Historical Collections of Pennsylvania" (Philadelphia 1S4.^), gives the names of two taverns, both then located on the square, Culbertson's and the \\ ashuicton. Sub- sequently Culbertson's, which stood on the south- west corner, the present site of the Presbyterian Church, and was a prominent meeting place for notables before the Civil War, became the Frank- lin, whose fate is mentioned in a later paragraph. The Washington of today is in a different location from its prototype of at least 75 years ago. Ihe small number of old taverns between Lan- caster and Chambersburg is principally accounted for by the fact that before the Philadelphia-Pitts- burgh route was improved practically throughout for stage-coach and freight-wagon traffic, this middle section was not used nearly as much as the eastern division. Consequently, there was less need for such accommodations as were provided between Philadelphia and Lancaster more ade- ijuately than on any other American highway from the Colonial period to the present day. Gen- erally speaking, there may also have been less in- terest among the people along this section in pre- serving such taverns as existed at different times. A more fundamental reason, however, was the fact that the 54 miles of the present main route between York, (jettysburg and Chambersburg were formed by connecting up, at a considerably later date, still older thoroughfares farther east and west. By the time this process had been completed, the earlier group of taverns at, and east of, Lancaster, had served six or seven decades of travelers. From McConnellsburg west, partic- ularly in the mountains, we will notice several hotels dating back to stage-coach and freight- wagon days, but not as many or as well preser\ed as those on the first part of the route west of Phil- adelphia. Maps made prior to ISOO show a well-detined road from Lancaster to llarnsburg, and southwest along the Cumberland valley through Carlisle to Shippensburg; thence west through Fannettsburg and Fort Lyttleton to Bedford (several miles north of the present route through Chambersburg and McConnellsburg). On some of them, Cham- bersburg is not shown at all; on others, its site is identified as "Col. Chambers." Later develop- ments of east-and-west travel made it an import- tant |ioint. Road Dkvki.opment in Chambersburg Section On practically all of these old maps, the exten- sion down the Cumberland valley to Hagerstovvn and the Potomac river can easily be traced; also the ancient trail from points farther west on the Potomac, particularly Fort Frederick, Maryland, crossing the Lincoln Highway at Fort Loudon, to which we shall shoirly come, and continuing up the P:ith or I uscarora vallev to a connection with the pioneer route from Harrisburg through Car- lisle, Shippensburg and Fort Loudon to Bedford, i hat made a long, roundabout way from the Po- tomac to Bedford, but avoided the steep ascent of Cove Mountain west of Fort Loudon, then rela- tively more formidable than now. Ihus the earl- iest routes through both (Jettysburg anti Cham- bersburg were di;igonally norrh-;md-south instead of east-and-west. Strange as it may seem today, the Chambers- burg-McConnellsburg section of the present Lin- coln Highway developed largely as part of a route from Baltimore, and later from Washington, to Pittsburgh through Westminister. Waynesboro, Mercerburg, McConnellsburg, Bedford and (Ireens- burg. I he travel between Philadclphui and Bed- lord might h;ive been servetl iiuKhmrelv b\ the old route through Harrisburg. Carlisle and Shippens- burg; but distance and geographical conditions prevented that from ever becoming an advan- tageous route between Baltimore and Pittsburgh. A few miles farther on we will note the point where the Baltimore road diverges from what has since become the main line. Ihe old route west of Shippensburg. though unimproved, can still be traveled. For many years after tolls had been established on the Pike, droves of live-stock and considerable freight were taken that way to avoid the payment of charges on the newer line. About 22 miles east of Bedford the two alignments merge and continue as one most of the wav across the m:iin .Mleghany ranges. Probably the tirst sleeping car line in the United States was inaugurated during the winter of IS.U- '38 between Chambersburg, Harrisburg and Phil- adelphia. The railroad was not yet built all the way through to Pittsburgh; so traffic from that city and the Central West came over the moun- tains by stage to Chambersburg, where it trans- ferred to the Cumberland N'alley R.R. and that part of the Pennsylvania system then in opera- tion to complete the trip to I'hiladelphia. and vice versa. It is said that the original sleeping cars were in operation there until 1848. when they were superseded b\' through service over the main line between Pittsburgh and Philadelphia. (JLicK. Transport ok .Ammunition During the Civil War. the Chambersburg- flagerstown division of the Cumberland N'alley R.R. carried large numbers of Federal troops and vast quantities of war munitions and supplies. Its location exposed it to all the hazards of cav- alry :md infantry, and on both Confederate inva- sions of this region much of its property was de- stroyed. The railroad officials estimated the di- rect losses from these attacks at not less than 3125.(X)0; and the indirect losses, due to frequent interruptions of traffic, were much greater. On September IS, 1862, the day after the battle of Antietam, four B. & O. R.R. cars, in custody of the Ordnance Department, U. S. A., drawn by 74 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania locomotive "Judge Watts," left Bridgeport (on west bank of Susquehanna, opposite Harnsburg), at 10:44 A. M., arrived at Chambersburg 12 o'clock noon, and at Hagerstown 12:42 P. M., a distance of 74 miles, in 1 hour and 58 minutes, averaging a mile in 1 minute, 30 6-7 seconds, slightly more than 37 miles an hour. Deducting stops, including two of ten minutes each for cool- ing hot boxes, this special was run at least 45 miles an hour. Upon arrival at Hagerstown, journal boxes of all four cars were ablaze. The ammunition, being sent from Baltimore to McClellan near Sharpsburg on the Potomac, made 158 miles by way of Harrisburg to Hagerstown in 4 hours and 51 minutes, or 36 9-10 miles per hour, elapsed time, probably the record for that period. Ha- gerstown was the southern terminal of this line until the extension to Winchester, Va., was opened in 1889. When Lee's great army came north from Vir- ginia at the beginning of the Gettysburg cam- paign. It was three or four days passing through Chambersburg and vicinity, the advance divisions headed toward Carlisle and Harrisburg and the later ones sent direct across South Mountain to Gettysburg, without tarrying long at any one place. On June 23, 1863, Gen. Ewell, command- ing the Confederate advance, made his head- quarters at the Franklin hotel (formerly Cul- bertson's), passing on to the north at the Men- nonite church. Soon after Ewell went east, Lee, Longstreet and A. P. Hill came up, and used the same hotel for their headquarters for short periods. On the 26th, they determined the movements of Confed- erate forces which brought them all to Gettys- burg a few days later. That night (26th), Lee . transferred his headquarters to Shetters woods, already referred to. A man still residing in Chambersburg remembers, as a boy, sitting on the fence by the roadside and watching Lee look- ing over maps and papers m those woods. The Burning of Chambersburg Chambersburg was burned, not in the Gettys- burg campaign, nor by Stuart's cavalry, as often supposed, but more than a year afterward by Early's Confederate cavalry, which had eluded Sheridan in the Shenandoah, and after alarming Washington, made the last raid of the war into Pennsylvania. Gen. John McCausland, still liv- ing in West Virginia, by direction of Gen. Early, demanded ^100,000 in gold or );500,000 in green- backs, paid within a half hour. This amount was not forthcoming on such short notice, and the burning followed. A stone boulder set diagonally across the south- west corner of the Square gives the dates of the founding of Chambersburg (1764), and of its burning (July 30, 1864), number of buildings de- stroyed, 537, value of real estate, J5713,294.34, and personal propertv, 3915,137.24. The Frank- lin Hotel, temporary Confederate headquarters in the summer ot 1863, was swept away in the con- flagration. 1 hough the conflict was then nearing its end, the long-ranging southern cavalry was difficult to anticipate or overcome. This was, in fact, the third Confederate visita- tion of Chambersburg, the first one having been in October, 1862, by Stuart's cavalry. During McClellan's inactivity after Antietam, Stuart rode entirely around the Army of the Potomac, reached Chambersburg and returned to Virginia with remarkably little loss, considering the dam- ages inflicted. He had meanwhile baflled the Federal cavalry, helped to delay McClellan's ad- vance, and gave more time to the Army of North- ern Virginia. Stuart was not in this vicinity during the Get- tysburg campaign, having made his long ride from the Potomac to the Cumberland valley at Car- lisle through York. He was killed at the Yellow Tavern, Va., in May, 1864, about five months before the last raid and burning of Chambersburg. Here the westbound tourist leaves behind the last traces of the Civil War. 1^ 'K I i Photo by Ptmia. State Highway Department ARM'i' TRUCKS CROSSING THE ALLEGHANY' MOUN- TAINS DURING WINTER OF 1QI7-'I8 The Lincoln Highway in Penn- sylvania was kept open practi- cally throughout that winter by army trucks en route to the sea- board for shipment to Europe. Some traveled light; others car- ried provisions or materials which the railroads were unable to transport. Since that time, none of the strategic highways between the East and Central West have ever been entirely closed 75 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Chapter I I— From Cliambersbimj lo Bedford. .'k)\2 Miles 1 iti Fori Loudon. MvConnelhlmrg and Everell, crossing Tii.icarora Mountain, Sideliwi flill and Hays Hill Fnim the west side (il the s(iiiare, Ch:imbcrs- biirg, our route follows Linioln Way West across Conococheague creek and the Western Maryland R.R. tracks. The first two miles are a gradual ascent, followed by a descent to Back creek, a tributary of the Conococheague. Ibis stream, hardly noticed m crossing, is almost exactly half- way between Philadelphia and Pittsburgh. West of the bridge here, begins a long, steady rise out ot the Cimiberland valley, fine views of which may be had b\' looking back. The first point of note is St. Thomas, about 7J.'2 miles beyond Chambersburg, a small village, for- merly Campbellstown. During his first raid into Pennsylvania. October, 1S62, the Confederate cavalry leader, Stuart, came up from the Potomac through Merccrsburg, reachetl the Phihulelphia- Pittshuijih Pike here, and followed it eastward to ChamlHisinirg. On the right-hand side of the road, about ;Vj-mile west of St. Thomas, are three great weeping willows, probably the largest on this route across Pennsylvania. One of the most interesting developments of Colonial times, was a chain of frontier forts (so- called, in reality a series of stockades and forti- fied cabins), erected between the Delaware and Sustpuhanna rivers, along the general line of the Kittarinny or North Mountain, and Tuscarora range, to the Potomac river, to protect the settle- ments in I'ennsylvania and Maryland after Brad- dock's defeat in 1755. That chain, if in existence today, would be crossed by our present route in the vicinity of St. Thomas, as forts Littleton, Shirley and McCord were north of the turnpike, while forts Loudon, .McDowell antl Steel, in Penn- svlvania. and torts Frederick ami CnmlHiland, in •Cr^ ChAMBEBSBURC FOUNDED *.D.I78<. KunitlD BY unci CAVAIBY JUIY 30.A.D.H64. ■ UllOINCt S37. VAIUI or ll(«l tlTAT( t7IS.fM.34 vAiu[ or nnioiui mopckty iaisj37.z4* . V 1 Pbolo by Mumper. CbamlteTsbur/i CLOSE VIEW OF MEMORIAL STONE. SOUTHWEST CORNER OK SQUARE, CHAMBERSBURG, PA. Maryland, were southwest, on the way to the Po- tomac. None of these old defenses now remain, but we will pass within a mile and a half of Fort Loudon; and the next place on our route commem- orates it. Through Fort Loudon Villagk On the lett, a half mile beyond the three willows, a prominent road branches southwest. That, fol- lowed about four miles, would bring one to the site of McDowell's Mill, afterwards better known as Fort McDowell, on the west branch of the Conococheague, at the settlement now known as Bridgeport, but hardly worth a detour to see. Continuing straight ahead along the main high- way, we notice, on the right in the nearing dis- tance, a high peak known since Colonial times as ParnelTs Knob, and so named on old maps of this section. Here the Kitattinny or North Moun- tain range, which has been practically continuous from the Delaware and Susquehanna rivers, ter- minates in a bold, exposed peak, rising about 1,200 feet above the roadway, distant only a trifle over a mile. On the opposite (south) side, just west of where one passes ParnelTs Knob, is a by-road leading down to the site of Fort Loudon, also on the Con- ococheague, within a mile or so of the through route. Many tourists make this side-trip, atten- tion to which is called by a stone marker in the angle of the highwa\- and the short road to the tort. 1 his was not only the most important frontier tletense in this region, but also on the cir- cuitous route followed by the Forbes expedition against Fort DuQuesne in 1758. While that route used the general alignment of the present road, it made several deviations, notably in this section, where it took a northerly course from forts McDowell and Loudon to Fort Lyttleton, and thence west, avoiding the climb over Tusca- rora or Cove Mountain, to which we are shortly to come. The name of that old tort is more properly spelled Loudoun, after Lord Loudoun, comman- der-in-chief ot the British forces during the early part of the old French war. Loudoun St., \\ in- chester St.,\ a., retains the original spelling; here and m the nearby \ ilhige it has been shortened to Loudon. Continuing about a mile and a quarter past the side-road to the site of the fort, we cross an iron bridge over the west branch of the Con- ococheague, and come to an important fork, in which is set a large granite boulder, with ;i bronze tablet, in the form of a keystone, with this in- scription: 76 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania FORTiLOUDON Erected by Colonel John Armstrong in the winter of 1756, by the order of the Province of Pennsylvania, was situated a mile southeast of this spot. The fort was built for the protection of the frontiers against the Indians, and took the place of the Fort at McDowell's Mills, which was situ- ated at Bridgeport. Fort Loudon was the scene of many thrilling events during the Indian raids in this region. During the expedition of Gen- eral John Forbes in 1758, and that of Colonel Henry Bouquet in 176,i-4. this fort was used as a rendezvous for troops and as a base of supplies. It was the scene of the exploits of Captain James Smith and his "Black Boys" in 1765. Before the building of the State Road to Pittsburgh, it was the point of departure of great trains of pack-horses loaded with goods for the West and South. Erected by the Pennsylvania Historical Com- mission, the Enoch Brown Association and the citizens of this place, 1915. This little village in the wilds of Franklin Co., Pa., almost literally surrounded by mountains, was the nearest important settlement to the old fort; hence the name. Through here, the cele- brated Indian trail known in history as "Kitta- tanning Path," led from the Potomac and lower Conococheague settlements to the Allegheny rivernorth of Pittsburgh, a fact perpetuated in the name of the Path Valley, through which the west branch of the Conococheague winds for several miles north of our route. Shortly after the Rev- olution, a son of Col. Chambers, founder of Cham- bersburg, erected a forge here to take advantage of the water power. Before the improved road was constructed be- yond here, wagon freight brought as far as Fort Loudon had to be transferred to pack-horses for the remaining distance to the Ohio. When the pack-horse trail was superseded by the improved section of the present route west of Tuscarora- Mountain, this village became a prominent stop- ping place for stage-coach travel. During that era it was widely known for the manufacture ot whips, like Westfield, Mass., today, though of course on a much smaller scale; and also had wag- on and blacksmith shops. Thomas A. Scott, who in 1860 became vice-president of the Pennsyl- vania R.R., was during the Civil War in charge of railway operations for the Federal Government in the war zone, and afterwards president of the railroad company, was born in Fort Loudon De- cember 28, 1824". Keeping to the right of the small park, with the tablet flanked by cannon, we cross the Cumber- Pbolo by Foibes (jTiinjU Co., CbtimlmtsbuTg HISTORIC MARKER, FORT LOUDON VILLAGE. PA. As seen traveling from east to west along the Lincoln Highway. The lettering is reproduced in type in the left hand column land Valley R.R. (southern Penna. branch), the last sign of steam transportation until we come along the Raystown branch, Juniata river near Everett, on the other side ot the first mountains. By the highway over which we have come, the distance back to Chambersburg is only 1.^.4 miles, against 22.6 miles by the railroad, which takes a circuitous course to the south, with a spur to Mer- cersburg. West of the railroad, our highway crosses the narrow Path or Tuscarora valley, almost as level as a floor. Looking back across same, and over the west branch of Conococheague creek, we see Jordan's Knob, similar to, but not as high as Par- nell's Knob east of Fort Loudon village. Fhis is a picturesque escarpment at the point where the southwestern edge of North Mountain turns or folds back into the Path valley, out of which we are about to climb by a steeper grade than any encountered heretofore on this trip. Crossing Tuscarora Summit Glancing ahead from this level stretch, the tourist will see Tuscarora or Cove Mountain looming up tremendously in the distance, and may wonder how difficult the crossing of it will be. Accidents are very rare. One only needs to be sure that the car is in good condition, especially the brakes, strictly observe the rules ot the road, 77 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania and keep a sharp lookout tor vehicles coniing tioni the opposite direction, particularly under full headway, perhaps carelessly driven. The ascent from the east is about four miles, with no turns or very sharp curves; the net rise in this distance is about 1,3(X) feet. A signboard at the top gives the elevation as 2,240 feet, but on the U. S. Geological Survey (Mercersburg quad- rangle), it is shown as about 2,1(X). While sev- eral ranges farther west are higher, no grades for the distance are steeper than those on this moun- tain, due to the fact that there are fairly deep valleys on either side of it, whereas the others rise principally fri)m plateaus considerably higher. 1 hough known as Tuscarora or Cove Moun- tain, the former is probably the true Indian and more correct name, derived from the luscarora tribe, the sixth nation of Iroquios. after whom the Tuscarora trail south and north through this section of Pennsylvania was called. The word "cove" IS freciuently used in the .'\lleghames to describe some sheltered valley, to which a local name is given. McConnellsburg, the next town, is in what is known as the "Big Cove," surround- ed ii\ mountains. People ot older generations would frequently express their intention of going "over to the Cove;" in time this came to mean over Cove Mountain, from which the name was probably derived. Along the crest of Tuscarora Mountain runs the boundary between Franklin and 1' iilton coun- ties, extending to the Maryland hue. 1 he moun- tain gradually decreases in size farther southwest; and comes to an end just north of the Potomac at Hancock, Md. Splendid views are had from the roadway; and many more reward one searching for other points of vantage nearby. Old buildings, some undoubtedly taverns or wagon-stantls in stage-coach and freight-traftic days, are occasion;illy seen, usually with nothing to identify them. On the right (north) side at the summit are the ruins of what was probably ;i roadhouse within comparatively recent times. Down Into and Through McConnellsburc; More care is required on the western slope than the eastern side; the grades average steeper, and there are several sharp curves, one nearly a "horseshoe." In less than three miles, we de- scend to 955 feet at the point where the highwa\ from Baltimore or Wiishington through \\ ayius- boro, Cireencastle, Mercersburg and up through Cove Gap (Koltz) comes into this route, ' ^-mi'e east of McConnellsburg. A signboard in the angle gives the name, Waynesboro, Greencastle and Mercersburg Turnpike; and indicates the way to the birthplace of James Buchanan, southeast b}/^ miles along that route. This diagonal road from the left owes its im- portance to the improved thoroughfare from McConnellsburg through Bedford to Pittsburgh. Until about 1800. it was expected that the main highway from the Chesapeake-Potomac region to the head of the Ohio would be over the Baltimore-Cumberland Turnpike to Cumber- land; thence by the route which subsequentlv be- came the National Road as far as the summit of Laurel Hill, a few miles east of Uniontown, and the Braddock Road the remaining distance. But iiraddock's route between Laurel Hill and I urtle creek fell into disuse, and the National Road found its principal Ohio River terminus at \\ heeling, somewhat to the disadvantage of Pitts- burgh. 1 hereupon part of the travel and commerce from Baltimore and Washington began to be di- verted from nearly direct west through .Maryland northwest into !'enns\ Kani.i, using the second half of the Philadelphia-Pittsburgh Pike to reach the confluence of the Monongahela and Alle- ghany rivers. This traffic merged with that from Philadelphia, Lancaster and \'ork, to which was added most of the travel from or though Harrisburg and Carlisle to Pittsburgh or beyond. 1 he incre:ised number of taverns found, even to- day, on the next section of the route, is thus partly accounted for. W'e come quickly into the main street of Mc- Connellsburg, and continue straight through over a fairly level stretch, soon crossing Big Cove creek, eastern tributary of i-icking creek, whose main stre;im will be crossed at Harrisonville, a few miles farther on. The elevation is now a trifle under 900 feet. M:ips of this section are only approxim:itely correct, as the next 22 miles have not been surveyed either by the Federal Govern- ment or the State. Up to three or four years ago, there stood on the right-hand side, just beyond the bridge but before the side-road branching right, an old toll-house whose superstructure was built entirely across the highwa\-. Nothing like it can now be found along the route; tourists having made the trip prior to 1916 may recall it. After the toll road had been purchased, the overhead part of the house was torn away; the dwelling part, moved b;ick and remodeled, is now a private residence. On the western outskirts of .McConnellsburg, the highway takes a northwesterly direction, for a favorable approach to the next r;mge. About a half mile west of the bridge, one comes to very sharp left and right curves, by which the route passes mostly around the foot of Little Scrub Ridge. Before beginning the moderate ascents here, it w ill he worth while to look back over the intervening lowhmd and the top of McConnells- burg to luscarora or Cove .Mountain, crossed l>erhaps less than ten minutes before. 1 he im- mense bulk of that range is now most impressive; and helps to explain why early travel preferred to follow the longer but easier way from Fort Lou- den north into the valley of the west branch of the Juniata, before turning west. Passing over the moderate grade caused by the slight projection of Little Scrub Ridge across our route, we come to the eastern foot of Scrub Ridge. 1 he ascent of this is short but rather steep; from the summit (1452 feet) interesting views unfold. Through openings in the tree-tops, McConnells- 7S The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania liurg, 33/9 miles back, may still be seen in clear weather. Looking ahead, about twenty miles of the Licking Valley (from here to Sideling Hill) are within vision. We descend the western slope of Scrub Ridge, and near the foot cross Patterson run, another tributary of Licking creek. In the next two miles we go over a minor ridge, with sharp curves on both sides, crossing the mam stream of Lick- ing creek, largest in the locality, at the eastern edge of Harrisonville. This waterway, from which the valley was named, and its branches, drain a considerable area; after flowing through southern Pennsylvania and across about the nar- rowest part of Maryland, it enters the Potomac west of Clear Spring on the National Road. Originally Licking creek village, this place was renamed Harrisonville after Gen. William Henry Harrison, victor of Tippecanoe, during his term as president. It is a typical old-time mountain hamlet. The valley here has an elevation of only 782 feet, a trifle less than McConnellsburg; and is the lowest point on the highway until it de- scends the other side of the main Alleghany range. Glimpses of Old Mountain taverns On the right (north) side, 1 4-10 miles west of Harrisonville, is the Green Hill House, the first of several well-preserved taverns in this section. It is a frame building, erected probably in 1838, and afterwards covered with stucco. Until about six years ago this house was a toll-gate on the former toll road. It is now a dwelling owned by James A. Stewart, who conducts a road house, serving meals and providing accommodations for a few travelers, on a smaller scale than when it was a prominent overnight stop on the great Phila- delphia-Pittsburgh highway. On the right, 8-10 mile beyond the Green Hill ' House, is the stone building known for many years as Mann's Old Tavern, a large and once popular stopping-place for stage-coaches. It was built probably about 1838 or '40, to better accommo- date travel passing over this stretch between Pittsburgh, Harrisburg, Philadelphia and Balti- more just before the railway era. The building, covered with stucco, is now the Saluvia, Fulton Co., P. O. Asking a native why so many of these old tav- erns have been plastered on the outside, taking away much of their original character and making them similar in general appearance, the writer was intormed that at one time the stucco was supposed to be more up-to-date, the purpose being to cover the rough stone work, and give an artificially finished effect. A passing judgment would be that the outside plaster is a serious detriment, especially when broken in spots or deteriorated with age. The new owner of one old house of this type had the stucco removed, and the original rough stone work dressed with new mortar, restoring the original character of the building and making it much more attractive. The comparatively level stretch here is a wide depression between Scrub Ridge and Sideling Hill, the next range west. On the right (north) side, 1 3-10 miles beyond Saluvia P. O., is Reamer's, one of the oldest tavern properties re- maining on this part of the route (erected about 1820). This is also a stone building, but not having been plastered, the original appearance has been better preserved. Reamer's was a tavern and stage-office; its location, at the eastern foot of Sideling Hill, was a convenient stop for old- time travel; and tradition says that it enjoyed good patronage. To AND Across Sideling Hill Several mountain streams have their source near this section of the highway, flowing from it in opposite directions, north and east to the Juniata, or south and west to the Potomac. No westward-flowing waters are encountered until we cross the main Alleghany range, considerably farther along. A wayside stop, 1903 Paul C. Wolff, Secretary Pennsylvania Motor Federation and Automo- bile Club of Pittsburgh, in front of Reamer's old tavern, Bedford Co., Pennsylvania Looking west. Sideling Hill looms up, huge and formidable, directly in our path. To gain the top it will be necessary to ascend about 1300 feet in the next three miles, with several sharp curves (caution advised). The distance is a trifle less, and the grade very similar to that up Tuscarora or Cove Mountain; it begins from a somewhat more elevated base, and the summit is about as much higher. The name is said to have been taken from the comment of either Indians or pioneer settlers about this being a "side-long" hill; that exact lettering is found at times in the old records, "Sideling" being a comparatively modern ren- dering. Extensive and beautiful views from the slopes, and especially from the top, include large areas of wild land and primeval forest, too far from transportation facilities to have suffered from extensive lumbering. Here, more than on Cove Mountain, opening eastward into the warmer Cumberland valley, we observe changes in the flora of the route. Diversified vegetation of 79 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania lower altitudes becomes rarer; and cone-bearing trees are more conspicuous. P'orests ot chestnut, pine, locust, hemlock, oak, walnut and patches of tamarack, in the swampy places, extend as far as the eye can see. Travelers over the National Road will recall encountering on the eastern slope of Sidelmg Hill a few miles west of Hancock, Md., the steep- est grades between Hagerstown and Cumberland. The more southerly route was cut in the general direction of the Potomac, though at times miles from it, by Indians employed by Col. Ihomas Cresap of Oldtown, Maryland, for the Ohio Company, some years before the old French war. Law Enforcement on the Old Frontier After the battle of Bushy Run, north of Greens- burg, where Pontiac's Rebellion was broken in Pennsylvania in 1763, trade with the western /•' . I.j / / a;. ( Hurv. H,,/J., lOKK OF TWO MOUNTAIN IIIGIIWAVS Looking cast from the ciistcrn Toot of Ray's HilL The unimproved road on the left follows the old trail past the site of Fort Littleton, some miles north of our route, to ShippensburtJ, Carlisle and Harrisburj;. On the ri^ht is the Lincoln Highway, winding alonj; an intermediate small ridce toward Sideling Hill, in the farther baek(;r()und, invisible because the view is cut off. In the angle is the Mountain Home Motel, successor t*> Macllvainc's of the stage-coach era Indians was temporarily forbidden by the Prov- ince. Notwithstanding this, in the spring of 1765, several loads of goods, including tomahawks, scalping knives and ammunition, were sent by unscrupulous traders as tar as Conococheagiie creek in wagons, and loaded on pack-horses for the remainder of the jouiTiey across the moun- tains. Fearing that these goods, in the hands of In- dians, might be turned against the settlements, about fifty armed men met the caravan near the present site of Mercersburg, and endi.avored to stop it by persuasion. 1 hey were unsuccessful, and the pack-horse train continued its slow way across Tuscarora Mountain to Sideling Hill. Thereupon William Durticld selected ten front- iersmen most accustomed to the ways of Indian fighting, blacked and painted them and pushed ahead by a roundabout route to an ambush along the trail on this hill. When the expedition came along, it was at- tacked by these few nun; the traders were glad to escape with their lives and a little personal property, leaving most of their stock to be burned on the spot. Consideraiile legal trouble and some conflict of authority followed; but the prohibition against trading with the Indians w'as more easily enforced afterward. It is not known just where the ambush took place, but probably nearby the present route. We descend Sideling llill by a downgrade of two miles, but with fewer curves than on the lon- ger eastern slopes. Looking over to the right when nearing the foot, the tourist may see the old road from the Cumberland valley at Shippensburg through Fannettsburg, Burnt C;ibins and Fort Lyttleton, coming into this route, the two coin- ciding for the remaining distance to Everett and Bedford. This IS a shorter way to Carlisle and Harnsburg than through Chambersburg and up the Cumber- land valley; and avoids the steep grades of Tusca- rora Mountain and Sideling Hill. But it has never been improved, :md is used principally to reach a few intermediate settlements. Many years ago drovers would often go that way to avoid the Pike tolls to ChamJHrsburg. Facing the main road at the intersection is the .Mountain Home Hotel, a 3-story building of modern appearance. Its exterior boarding cov- ers logs which formed the principal structure of Macllvaine's well-known and popular tavern of stage-coach days. For the best view ot it and the diverging roads, one traveling west should turn ;i round ;ind l(H)k east, the way the accompanying photograph was taken. It will be noticed that the unimproved road goes almost directly up the hill in the background, while the Lincoln Highway takes the grade in an easier way. This is part of the trunk line of tele- graph poles across the State, the greater number of wires following the unimproved shorter route eastward. Over Ray's Hill into the Juniata X'alley Now begins a short, rather steep ascent of the eastern slope of Ray's Hill, reaching the top at an elevation of 1955 feet. Along the crest, nearly north ;inil south, runs the boundary between Ful- ton and iietltord counties. A tine view of the western slope of Sideling Hill mav be h;id back in a northeasterly direction across the intervening depression from the summit of Ray's Hill. Ray, whose name is met frequently in the his- tory of this section, was a settler in the vicinity ot Bedford about 1751; that place was at first called after him. I his last range before reaching the Juniata was probably named the same way. Passing over the crest of Ray's Hill, there is a gradual descent into the Juniata v;ilie\. the broad outlines of w hich now begin to untold. SO The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania In 2 8-10 miles from tht- smnmit tt) the village of Breezewood, the drop is a trifle less than 600 feet. Considerable re-alignments have been made on the highway in this vicinity, to secure a shorter line and easier grades. From an elevation of 1364 at Breezewood, the descent continues rap- idly to 982 at the Juniata, only 1 8-10 miles farther west. The waterway crossed here is the Raystown branch, whose main stream is considerably to the north, more in the section traversed by the Will- iam Penn Highwav. Before this Chambersburg- Bedford-Pittsburgh route was cut through and made passable as a whole, there was considerable exploration, travel and primitive commerce up the Susquehanna river past the site of Harrisburg into the Juniata, whose long circuitous course avoided the several mountain ranges east of here. Making a sharp soLitherly bend from the main stream near the present Huntingdon, the Rays- town branch followed a well-defined valley down to this section. Old Trail and Modern Highway Coincide Often in looking over old records, one finds a reference to "the lands near the head of the Ju- niata, along the path that leads to the Ohio." What the casual reader may consider a conven- ient but indefinite figure of speech is, in fact, a most interesting phrase of accurate description. Here the headwaters of the Juniata cross and continue for miles along part of the old trading path to the West, transformed into a modern highway. How little the alignment of this portion has changed in more than 160 vears is best evidenced b\' the fact that from here through Everett into Bedford the tourist of today could follow the map made for the Forbes expedition of 1758 about as easily as a modern survey. The old distances are also remarkably correct. In 17S-i George Croghan, a famous Indian trader and scout living on the west side of the Susquehanna not far from the present Harrisburg, made a report to the Colonial authorities of Pennsylvania on the distances from his location to the Ohio, which he had traveled several times. "From Juniata Creek at ye Crossings to Rays- town" (now Bedford), Croghan gave as 14 miles, half a mile less than odometer measurements be- tween the same points. Nothing could be more expressive or appropriate than the name, "Juniata Crossings," as known to the Forbes expedition, to the drivers of stage-coaches and freight-wagons during the busy days of the old highway, and so called to this day. Next to the Susquehanna at Columbia, it is the widest stream on this trip. Evolution ok a Famous Crossing For many years, the only means of crossing here was by primitive ferry, replaced in time by a famous "chain bridge." The date of its erection IS uncertain, but it stood for many years some dis- tance below the present one. In place of cables, as in modern suspension bridges, large chains spanned the river; on one side these were anchored to great rocks, and on the other to a stone pier, part of which still remains. The From orii^inal in Historical Society of Penn\\liania, Pbiludclphia PART OF MAP MADE FOR THE FORBES EXPEDITION (1758) Compare this old map with the corresponding section of recent detailed maps, across pages 48 4^. What the topographer of 1758 indicated as "Col. Burd's Road" became the start of the "Old Glade Road" (branching south from the main highway iust beyond Wolfsburg, west of Bedford, page 48). Everett was not then laid out 81 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania From -ikeub by E. H. Blackburn, Betljord UNUSUAL SHAPE OF COVERED BRIDGF. ACROSS RAVSTOWN BRANCH, JUNIATA RIVER, AT JUNIATA CROSSINGS original road at the "lower crossing" may vet he distinctlv traced, and marks of wheels deeply cut into solid rock are still visihle evidence of the heavy wagon trafhc which once passed over this route. The older part ot the present long covered bridge, 185 feet total span, was erected by the Bedford & Chambersburg Turnpike Co., when the hrst improved road was put through in 1814-1.5, though it mav not have been entirely completed until ISIS, ()riginally it was a double wooden structure throughout, built of very heavy tim- bers, as noticed by the tourist. About 1884 or '85, the eastern end, being most exposed to the current, was destroyed by ice or flood; and re- placed by a single wooden section in 1885. This was about midway between the time when wagon trafhc disappeared from the road, and the coming of the automobile. As a result, this bridge remains today a relic of two former eras in transportation, the eastern enil only half as wide as the older western end. I he narrowing takes place in the middle of the stream, where the light is not good; and as in the absence of a toot-bridge, pedestrians are obliged to use it, caution is neces- sary, especially in traveling eastward. McCiRAw's Oi.n Iavkrn On the right side of the road, just beyond the western portal of the covered bridge, is one of the t)ldest, most interesting taverns standing along the route. Some place of accommodation tor travelers has been located on tli;it site continu- ously since 1795. It is said that Hugh Dennison, one of a family of early settlers, erected the pres- ent building in 1818, soon after the completion ot the through Pike. It is a large three-story structure, ot native stone, situated upon the north bank ot the ri\er, near its bend westward, amid wild, romantic scenery. At the height of the stage-coach era, it was one of the most famous hostelries on the route. George McCiraw was hindlord here in the 40s, and probably later. In time the place became widely known as "McGraw's;" or in the lingo of the old drivers, "McCiraw's at the Crossings," linking the names of the hotel and loc;ility together in a single descriptive phrase. 1 radition says that this laiullonl kejit a good house, very p(>pular and well patronized; a very few still remember it under that management. McGraw was also the owner of a large farm, and extensively engaged in stock-raising. He died in Bedford Co. about 1877, Like nearly all old taverns, this w;is finalK Kft without patronage, and the great majority of modern travelers pass by without stop. Judging from appearances, it might easily be turned into a modern hotel. Along the Juni.'vta to Everett Continuing westward, the motorist follows a nearly level road along the north side of the stream past well-kept and highly productive farms. At times the river is bordered by majestic trees whose shadows spread upon the limpid waters. In some places the valley is comp;iratively wide; then it contracts to little more than a "narrows" for the stream with the road crowded in. 1 he very name, "Juniata," has a rythmical sound; and one is tempted to plan a subsequent trip along the main stream by the \\illi;im Penn Highway to see more of it. For a long time these were the frontier lands of the Province; and suffered great depredations. After Braddock's defeat, Indians in league with the French swept the Pennsylvania and Maryland frontiers; and practically destroyed all the settle- ments in this region, forcing survivors to flee to or east of the Cumberland valley. The success of the Forbes expedition in 1758 helped to hold these raids in check, but tran(]uility was not restored for many years, (jradually it was settled again; and now it is as peaceful a locality as one would care to see, inhabited from all appearances by prosperous and contented people, many of them descendants of the pioneers. Several old stone buildings are noticed along Pholo_by_F. E. MiCrcary, BedlorJ Ol I) COVl RID BRIDGE AT "JUNIATA CROSSINGS" view looking cJist, sliowing double roadway at weslerii end, and Rlinmse of single portal at the farther end. Sec accompanying diagram. The ^ig^ "Juniata Crossings" is in front of McGraw's oUj hotel (on left-hand siE ' 2 o The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania period, its piincipal framework consisted ol unseasoned oak or other strong logs, not easily set on fire and difficult to cut through. These logs, about 18 feet long and pointed at the top, were placed alongside in an upright position. Iheir sides were hewn flat, and after being placed close together, were fastened at the top bv hori- zontal pieces of timber, spiked or pinned on the inside, making the whole interior firm and strong. Platforms were constructed all around the in- ner side of the enclosure, perhaps 4 or 5 feet from the ground. Upon these, in case of attack, the garrison stood and fired through loop holes made at convenient heights above the platforms. Port holes were cut on either side ot the bastions for the swivel guns. Fort Bedford was also pro- tected on the south and west sides by a moat about 8 feet deep and 10 feet wide at the bottom, gradually widening to about 15 feet at the top. On the north side, the stream afforded the necessary protection, while the contour of the ground furnished a natural defense on the east side. The great mass of earth taken from the moats was thrown outward, and graded to an easy slope, up which any attacking force would be obliged to approach against fire from within the stockades. Notwithstanding the great value of this fort to the Forbes expedition, it was afterward neglected by the provincial authorities, and only a small garrison was retained there. Some use was made of it by Col. Bouquet's expedition against the In- dians in 1763. Before the Revolution it became a ruin, never to be rebuilt; nothing whatever now remains of it, and even the site still lacks a suitable marker. A trifle less than 2 miles south of Bedford, en route to Cumberland, are the celebrated Bedford Springs, a popular resort for many years. Num- bers of tourists make the short side-trip to the Bedford Springs Hotel there. Several old dwellings or stores on the mam street look as if they might have been taverns or wagon-stands in the olden days; but have been superseded by newer establishments. On the right-hand side of Pitt St., just west of the busi- ness center, is an old stone building known lo- cally as "Washington's Headquarters;" but the tradition is elusive, to say the least. The monu- ment to the memory of soldiers of Bedford Co. who lost their lives in the War of 1861-'65 is at the intersection of Penn and Juliana streets, one square south of the through highway. First Section West of Bedford We continue straight out W. Pitt St., soon bearing right to pass around the upper edge of Wills Mountain, which trends southwesterly into Maryland. About 30 air-line miles south it is cut almost in two by Wills creek, forming the famous "Narrows," just west of Cumberland. Near Woltsburg, IJo miles out, the highway passes thrrugh a covered bridge spanning the Raystown branch which, with the Juniata division of the Pennsylvania R.R., takes a southwesterly course, west of Wills Mountain; nothing more is seen of either on this trip. A short two miles west of the covered bridge, a prominent left-hand road starts southwest through Mann's Choice into southern Somerset Co. This is part of the Burd or "Old Glade Road," originally intended to connect these upper waters of the Juniata with the ^'oughiogheny, and through that with the greater Monongahela. Old records give it as branching from the direct line between 4 and 5 miles west of Raystown; the odometer shows 4 1-10 miles from the center of Bedford. In the southeast corner, within a few feet of the branching of these roads, is a large and sub- stantial stone building, the more interesting from Its location. Stopping to inquire, the writer was informed that it was erected more than 90 years ago; and was long known as "Stookey's" or the Stookey Hotel. Like most survivors of the stage-coach days, this is a private residence. It is an excellent example of old-time country stone- work, partly hidden by porches in front and on the sides, all comparatively modern. Taking final leave of the Juniata, the highway ascends a moderate grade and makes a correspond- ing descent into the narrow Quaker valley at Schellsburg. This little place, just under ten miles west of Bedford, was a convenient point for changing relays of horses on stage-coaches. Two miles beyond the village, our route goes through the last covered bridge on this route, over the Shawnee branch, Raystown branch of the Juniata, the last tributary of that stream. Old Tavern Site in Mountain Wilds Just beyond the covered bridge begins a long but only moderately steep grade up the eastern slope of the main Alleghany range, in the course of which there are several sharp curves. On the left, at the sharpest one of all, is a conspicuously high stone building commonly known as the "shot factory," the name arising, it is claimed, from its use at one time as a place from which to drop shot in making bullets; but that is highly improbable. The building was an old tavern, a product of the turnpike era (1820 or later), erected on that spot somewhat to take advantage of a fine spring of cold water nearby. Its unusual height prob- ably led someone to give it the name of "shot factory," which is even on the U. S. Geological survey map of that section. Though abandoned for many years, its well-built walls are standing in remarkably good condition. In his recollections of 60 years (1908), David Eby, of Chambersburg, a wagoner over this route, 1849-'53, refers to this as "the high stone build- ing," and also mentions the "short turn" and the "hard pull" which westbound stage-coaches and freight-wagons were obliged to make m passing it. This the observer of the present time can readily confirm by a glance at the illustration in the lower right-hand corner, page 86. Across the Main Alleghany Plateau 6-10 mile beyond is "Grand View," a point of 87 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania osbervation over an extensive area of Bcdforii and Sumerset counties, mostly on the western side of the Allef;lian\- rans^e. (Jiiard rails protect traffic from approachini; too near the edge. lOwr- ists are advised to park their cars somewhat back and walk to the ledge overlooking this vast pan- orama ot mountain and forest. A sign erected hv the Pennsylvania State Highway Department calls attention to the "finest view between Phila- delphia and Pittsburgh." just beyond "(Jrand \'iew" is the highest ele- vation on the route, 2,908 feet, at the Bedford Co. -Somerset Co. Ime, running along the crest. This is more the top of a high, fairly broad plateau than a conventional "summit." Deep valleys, glens or ravines cut the landscape in curious north and west. A Somerset County Coal Region 1 he descent of the western slope of the main Alleghany range is even more gradual than the grade on the eastern face, only 480 feet in some- what less than 6 miles, to the mountain village of Buckstown. Continuing straight through, the highway traverses a sparselv-settled country, with occasional tine views, making a gradual descent to Stony creek at Kantner !'. (). This stream is a rrdiMtary ot the Conemaugh, and the latter of the Kiskiminitis river, flowing into the Allegheny at 1' reeport, about 25 miles northeast of Pitts- burgh. 1 he prmcipal camping site of the Forbes ex- /■iulo f,i I . L. ML, OLD STONE BUILDING, 4',, MILES WEST OF BEDFORD BcJhrd The road in front is the Lincoln Highway. At extreme right, passing other side of house, the "Old Glade Road" starts southwest fashion, some forming beds tor small mountain streams flowing in different directions. .At times the dense forests almost encroach upon the high- way. The alritutle places the crests ot this jilateau in the e()uivalent of the Canadian zone. Clouds from distant regions meet and mingle their rains upon these highlands; and across them two well- detined svstems of winds blow, generally from opposite directions. The fact that the .Alleghany mountain ranges are comparatively low, allows moisture from the Atlantic slope to pass easily over them into the Ohio and Mississippi valleys; this largeK' accounts for the fertility of our central West, whereas the higher mount;iins farther west keep back the moisture of the Pacific, and help make the semi-arid regions there. Here we pass from the domain of streams flowing east or south into a region drained principally toward the pedition between Bedford ;md Ligonier, was on Stt)ny creek in this vicinity; but nothing remains to mark its location. Stoystown, an old vilhige, ;ibout a mile west of the stre;im. was laid out by ;i Revolutionarv soldier named Stoy. Between this point ;md l,;iurel Hill, the next range, is an up- land plateau tr;iversed by several small streams. A few old buildings, which were probably tav- erns, wagon-stands or toll-houses in the busy days of the turnpike, are noticed along the roadside; but none of much distinctive character. Most of the settlements here have been made since coal has been extensively mined in rliis part of Somer- set county. I he princip:d transportation is furnished bv the Johnstown division of the B. &: (). R.R., connecting the Pittsburgh division at Rockwood, between Cumberland :ind Connells- ville, with the main line of the Pennsylvania at Johnstown. Now, as 100 years ago, the highway 88 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Ph.-.lo hy I\ ZT .\/< Crrurj , Bedford SCHELLSBURG. BEDI ORD CO., PA. The view is nearly direct west, across the narrow Quaker Valley, in which the village (ejevation 1, 25*^ f^^^^ '^ situated. At the mountain summit, in extreme background, just left of the center of the picture, the highway is carried through a rift in the forest, which still encloses it on both sides. i.s the only means of east-and-west transportation through this section. From the hamlet of Jennertown, an important connecting route leads north to Johnstown, the best way from points along this section to that city. South from the same 4-corners starts the newly-unproved link from the Lincoln Highway here through Somerset and Meyersdale to the National Road about 3 miles east of Grants- ville, Md., providing a good and often very useful connection between these two trunk lines through contiguous sections of Pennsylvania and Mary- land. To AND Over "Laurel Hill" Shortly after leaving Jennertown, begins a fairly long ascent of the eastern slope of Laurel Hill, with several curves, which should be taken with care. The summit, 2,684 feet, is the high- est point on the remaining distance to Pittsburgh; trending slightly from northeast to southwest along this ridge is the dividing line between APPROACHING "GRAND VIEW, Pbolo by F. E. McCreaTy, Bedford SUMMIT ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS A characteristic "side-hill" road, which makes a long curve to distribute the grade over a greater distance, view is off to the left of the picture from the point where the highway is seen to reach the crest The celebrated The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Pboto by F. E. McCrcary. Bi-dlurJ ASCENDING THE MAIN ALLEGHANY RANGE View taken near the cast iVnnl of the mountain, InokinK northwest. This illustration shows the (teneral eharaeter of the Alh-iihany ranixes — liuj;e soil and rock niasses. of comparatively low altitude, and without individual summits, like the White Mountains, Atlirontlaeks and Catskills. From a distance they api)ear o\'al-shaped, or even rounded Somerset and Westmouland cdiintits. This sec- tion is very wild and sparsely settled; the atmos- phere is unusually clear and exhilarating. The name, "Laurel Hill" applied to this range since early colonial days, and frequently men- tioned as such in Washington's diary and puhlic and personal correspondence, is derived from the abundance ;md heauty of the Rhododendron or l.iunel which grows on the hillsides, in the val- Pholo hy /-. /-:. MiCnan. Biiljoid CURVE AT SUMMIT OF ALI.EGIIAN1' MOUNTAIN To the right of the picture — heyont! the protectinK widl, a iK>rtion f>f which may be seen — is "Granil View," overhioking the western sh>pe of the plain Alleghany range. While often sharp, these curvt-s are usu- ally wide; and the road slopes a irille to the inside as an additional factor of safely leys ami along the mountiiin streams of this re- gion, unsurpassed, if etiualed, elsewhere. A smaller variety, the Calico Bush, is a shrub about 4 or 5 feet high, with thick, smooth evergreen leaves, lance-shaped and 2 to 3 inches long. In June its flowers appear in great clusters on the ends of the branches, very delicate and much used (or decorative purposes. 1 he stems are often m;ide into rustic chairs and benches. A grove of this shrub adds greatly to the attractive- ness of a well-kept lawn. Through here is found the large variety ot Laurel (Rhododendron maximum), growing from 8 to 15 feet high; its evergreen leaves are from 5 to 7 inches long, broadly lanced shape, of leath- ery texture and gloss\'. 1 he flowers appearing in August, are from 1 to 2 inches in di;imeter, of whitish or rose color, spotted inside, and grow in huge clusters. A thicket of great Laurel affords protection to g;ime anim:ils and birds fnnn the rigor ot winter, and heliis to conce:il them in summer. This h;irdy and be;iutifiil shrubbery is unsur- passed as a border phint along the stream of a country est;ite. In he;ivy masses, it clothes these extensive highlands in primeval beauty. Other flowers ;ind foliage add to the variety of the land- scape. Kspecially in the fall, after :i frost, almost ;inv color of the rainbow c;in be seen as one looks over these noble, historic mountains. On the crest of this r;inge, somewhat more than M) air-line miles southwest of where it is crossed here hy the Lincoln Highway, Washington, in comuKind of a small advance of the "\irginia Regiment," with which he undertook to reach l-'ort DuOuesne. encountered the French outpost under jumoinille, ;intl hred the first shots in the Old French War. He soon ;ifterw;irds retreated to Fort Necessity, and was obliged to surrender to superior numbers of French and Indians, on July 4, 1754. The section traversed hy Wash- ington's expedition, and by the greater Braddock camp;iign of 1755, is crossed by the Nation:il vo The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Road a few miles east (if Uniontown. A nuinher of flat, smooth rocks, from 60 to 90 feet long, and varying widths, are noticed on this hill, as no- where else along the entire route. David Eby, the old wagoner, states that in the olden days horses often slipped, fell and were injured in the effort to draw heavy loads over these rocks. The modern roadbuilder has made them harmless to a carefully driven motor car. Through Laughlintown into Ligonier We descend the western slope of Laurel Hill, part of the way along a deep, heavily-wooded ravine, with occasional glimpses of the small stream at the bottom of it. 1 his is the last steep grade (westbound) in the mountains, and the last of all except for the descent from East McKees- port to Turtle creek, when almost into Pittsburgh. Soon the village of Laughlintown appears in the extensive view ahead. About 1 g-mile north of the main route, and reached by turning right on the side-road about a mile east of Laughlintown, is the old Washington Furnace, which anyone interested in such things will find a short side-trip to this very quaint struc- ture (compared with modern plants) worth while. Originally about 60-feet high, it has fallen away through age and neglect until only about 30 feet of the stack remain; its limestone foundation and a portion of the brick bosh are, however, intact. Entirely deserted, the typical furnace village which once clustered around the grass-grown knoll, has passed into oblivion. It was built in 1809 by a settler, Johnson Mc- Clurg, who m 1818 sold it to another settler, Wurtz Rodgers. About 1822, it passed by sher- iff's sale to a corporation headed by Bell Bros., then considered the leading manufacturers of iron Photo by George hi. Crafl, Unionlown MOUNTAIN LAUREL A tUisIci 111 hinssiiins, tinted with Rolcfen flecks or yellow spf)ts on the upper petals: all the more striking as seen against the more sombre shades ol the leaves ore products, owning plants of this type at Con- nellsville. In 1857 it was sold to L. C. Hall, who closed down in 1860; owing partly to meagre transportation facilities, it has not since been operated. The charge used in this old-style furnace was a mixture of charcoal, limestone, bog ore and kid- ney ore; charcoal was also used for heating the charge, coke being little known at that time. Its product, in the form of ingots, was hauled in wag- ons to Pittsburgh. Subsequently, domestic ap- pliances, such as stoves, were made there and sold to residents of the locality. The section around this furnace and Loyalhanna creek, one of the most beautiful along the highway, is used in sum- Photo hy Ross Campbell BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OVER LAUGHLINTOWN, WESTMORELAND CO., PENNA. Looking west from the western slope of Laurel Hill. The highlands in the foreground are between Laurel Hill (in the background, out of the photograph), and Chestnut Ridge, in the distance. Faint outlines of Ligonier may be seen in the extreme left, just this side of Chestnut Ridge 91 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania mer by hundreds of peopli- for camping and picnii.- grounds. About 4-niiles west of the summit of Laurel Hill and 3-miles east of Ligonier, we come into i.auKhlmtown. Over the ground now occupied by this picturesque little mountain village. Col. Ward passed, .September 6, 1758, leading the first detachment of soldiers in the Forbes expedition toward Fort DuQuesne. It is said that Robert Laughlin was one of them, and settled here after that war. I he place was laid out by him June 7, 1797, and originally called East Liberty; upon the es- rabli.shment of the P. O., the present name was adopted. At one time it was 1 of only 4 post offi- ces in Westmoreland CO., the other 3 being Greensburg, Mount Pleasant and West Newton, the latter two on the southern route from Somer- set to Pittsburgh. About a mile south of Laughlintow n, the first charcoal furnace in the county was built more than 100 years ago, and charcoal was extensively produced until the industry became unprofitable. Considerable amounts of ore, making the best of iron, may still be found in this region; but not in sufficient (luantities to compete with northwest- ern ores now brought down the (ire;ir Lakes. On the south side of file highwa\', at the center ot the \ ilhige, is tht- home of Mr. Charles L. Armor, erected about 179'), foi hotel purposes; it was called in stage-coach ;nid tavern days the "Mari- ner's Compass," or locally, the "Compass Inn." Robert Armor, gr;uidfather of the present owner, came to Laughlintown in 1S14. Inside the old tavern (kept as a hotel until 1SC)2), is a collection of interesting relics, maini\' domestic antiques, gathered in the vicinity or in the nearbv Ligonier valley. lourists desiring to d>) so may stop ;ind inspect them. On June 7, 1897, the village celebrated its cen- tennial, with interesting ceremonies, on which occasion there were many visitors from outside to one resident. The parade included old-time wagons, pack-horse trains reproduced, valley rangers, elderly citizens in carriages, etc. Some taking part in this page;mt could recall most of the history of the place. Ahead and to the left, the tourist now sees out- lines of the beautiful Ligonier valley, through the greater part of which Hows Loyalhanna creek, whose general course is followed into the town. Directly in front, where the str;iightaway of the route is broken by the scjuare, is a large bronze marker on a granite block, erected by the Penn- sylvania Society, Sons of the Revolution, unveiled July 4, 1915. The lettering on this tablet, a con- cise summary of the historical points of the local- ity, reads as follows: Fort Lkjonikr The first Fnglish fort west of the Allegh- any Mountains was built five hundred feet southeast of this spot in 1758, by order of (jen. John Forbes, and named in honor of Lord John Ligonier. Here (iener;il Forbes, with the aid of Col- onels (leorge Washington, Henry RoiKjuet and John Armstrong, assembled an armv of 7,S5() men, constructed the Forbes Road, marched against Fort DuQuesne. and com- pelled the evacuation of the fort, November 25. 1758, thereby overthrowing French and establishing English supremacy in this re- gion. Here Col. Bouquet re-organized the expe- dition for the relief of Fort Pitt; and while on the march, at a point twenty-seven miles west of this, fought the battle of Bushy Run, August 5 and 6, 1763, defeating the Indians under Chief Guyasthua in "one of the best- contested actions ever fought between white men and Indians." I he fort was about one street south of our route from the 4-corners next east of the square, just before westbound travel comes to the bus- iness center and historical tablet; and can be found by a very short detour. Here was not only a very important military rendezvous of the Forbes expedition, but also the most westerly frontier defense along this route to the Ohio. The locality is now without special interest, and unat- tractive except for picturesque views along Loy- alhanna creek, whose high bluffs gave the fort a very advantageous location. No marker has been erected on the site; but the one with the inscription ((uoted, at the nearest point to it on the through highway, is seen by thousands who would not make the side-trip to the stream. Ihe diagram will give a good idea of the military post there ( 1758-'6.3). It was never again of importance, though the town which grew up around it has become the chief center tor the locality. Fwo military expeditions passed through here in colonial days, that of Forbes, which took Fort DuOuesne, and Bouquet's against the Indians, nearly 5 years after the F"rench had abandoned the Ohio country. Boucpiet was an officer under Forbes, but the expedition with which his name is more personally connected took place in 176.?, during Pontiac's Rebellion. Ihe reference in the second paragraph on the tablet to the Forbes Road having been construc- ted from Ligonier westward is correct in the sense that from this fort the cutting was through the primeval wilderness, whereas east of here, primi- tive roads ;iheady existed from the Sus(]uehann;i ;ind Potomac. Forbes' route was from Carlisle, in the Cumberland valley, to Pittsburgh; as far as Ligonier it used what had already been laid out; but from here on it was constructed for that expedition. Ilc)\n: OF Gen. Arthir St. Ci..mr .Among distinguished officers in the French and Indian and Revolutionary wars, only one was ever a resident of this section; here his name is freipiently met, even today. Arthur St. Clair, ilescendant of a prominent old family of Scots, came to America in 1758, serving first under 92 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Lotftilhanna Re-drawn from "Frontier Forts of Pennsylvania" DIAGRAM SHOWING FORM AND LOCATION OF FORT I.IG- ONIER, BETWEEN LCl ALHANNA CREEK AND PRESENT MAIN ROUTE (INDICATED BY PARALLEL DOTTED LINES AT TOP) Wolfe in Canada, afterwards becoming agent for the western lands of the Penn family. Thus he became interested in the Ligonier valley, and' held some local offices. Diirmg the Revolution, St. Clair served the cause of the colonies with ability and distinction. In 1788 he was appointed first governor of the Northwest Territory, whose capital was then at ChiUicothe, now Ohio. For several years he was engaged largely in subduing the Indians on the frontiers, usually with success, though defeated at the Miami villages (battle of the Wabash), in 1791. Resigning thegovernorship early in 1802, because ot differences with President Jefferson, St. Clair returned to western Pennsylvania and made his home at the "Hermitage," north of Ligonier. During the last years, he lived in poverty, and finally received a small pension from the State. Giving up the "Hermitage," he moved to the top of Chestnut Ridge, where his death occurred Au- gust .il, 1818, in his SSth year. Keeping right, around the north side of the square, Ligonier, the tourist resumes the straight- away of the through route; and passes, on the left, the attractive station of the Ligonier Valley R.R., which connects with the Pennsylvania system main line at Latrobe. For the next few miles, the highway, Loyalhanna creek and this local railroad are close together in a very picturesque gorge. To AND Through Chestnut Ridge This range, which rises in height and increases in size farther south (making several steep grades on the National Road east of Uniontown, and be- coming Cheat Mountain in West Virginia), is here so low that most of the highway through the gorge is nearly level. Woodlands border it on both sides; and great rocks, left by glacial action, may be seen. Several miles north, this range is cut through by the Pennsylvania R.R. at the fa- mous "Pack Saddle," the name an inheritance from the days of the pack-horse. On the left-hand side, nearly opposite the iron bridge leading across Loyalhanna creek into Kingston, is a large old stone building once a tav- ern, erected before the place was settled. In stage-coach and freight-wagon days, it was known as Johnston's. Across the stream is a paper mill. Emerging from the western end of the gorge, our route leaves the picturesque creek followed from east of Ligonier, and turns southwest, up a wind- ing" grade into^Youngstown. Westbound travel has now crossed the moun- tains into a rolling highland region, whose general slope is west. Irregular, rounded hills take the place of well-defined ridges. Changes in the char- acter of the country are evident on every hand, and the vegetation of lower altitudes reappears. From now on there are frequent glimpses of coke plants and coal-mining operations. Latrobe, the largest nearby place, is about 3-miles north of the highway a short distance west of Youngstown. Over to the left, somewhat more than 3-miles beyond that village, is St. Xavier Academy, for girls and young ladies, located in about 250 acres of fields, gardens and recreation grounds. Inside photo by Bradford, Phila., from ])uinting GEN. ARTHUR ST. CLAIR Citizen, warrior and administrator: personally identified ff^r many years with the Ligonier Valley section of this route 93 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Pbotofrapb by Bradjord, from jjaintine at flisloricat Society of Pcnnsi'/rania, Pbiia. BRIG-GEN. HENRY BOUQUET One of the principal officers under Gen. Forhes in the campaign of 17>8 against Fort DuQui'sne; and in chief command of the expedition which culminated at the Battle of Bush.v Run, northeast of this route at lr^vin, AuKUSt, l7bJ Stone gates on the left, close hy the highway, is the park or grove, almost tilled with old trees. Only the tops of the buildings can be seen. This acad- emy, established about 70 years, is said to be the oldest of its kind in the State. On the opposite (north) side, somewhat farther away. St. \'in- cent's College may also be seen. We are now drawing closer to the main line of the Pennsylvania R.R.. and occasionally bear the shrill whistle of speeding locomotives. .Along this section are a few old buildings, some former tav- erns or wagon-stands, mostly turned into dwell- ings; now and then something suggests the famil- iar lines and structure of a former toll-house. The sight of a log cabin, reminder of pioneer days, is still not uncommon. On the left, before the highway loses its iden- tity in v.. Pittsburgh St.. CJreensburg. we pass St. Clair Cemetery, named after (Jen. .Arthur St. Clair. However, the remains of the general and his wife are in the small old cemetery located about a block north of the main route a very short distance east of the business center (see map top page 49). I hat one may be quickly reached by keeping to the right (westbound), after passing under the S. \\ . branch. Penna. R.R. just south of the main line. For several years St. Clair's final resting place was unmarked; but in 1S32. the .Masonic fraternity erected a monument, with the follow- ing inscription: SovTH Side The earthly remains of Maj<>r-(jtneral Arthur .St. Clair are deposited beneath this humble monument which is erected to supply the place of a nobler one. due from his country. North Side This stone is erected over the remains of their de- parted brother, by members of the .Masonic Societv resident in this vicinity. Beneath this monument also lies Phoebe Bayard, wife of General St. Clair. She died September IS, ISIS. In the course of time, the old monument disin- tegrated; and was replaced by a new one. dedi- cated .August 1.^. 1913. with appropriate ceremo- nies. I he sides ot the new one. like the old mon- ument, correspond exactly with the 4 points of the compass. A new inscription on the east panel reads as follows: This monument erected in 191.^ by members of the Masonic Fraternity resident in this vicinity, re- places, and is a duplicate of a sandstone monument which was erected in lS.i2. the inscription on this panel alone excepted. Greensburg .and X'icimty The old Forbes Road crossed this section at varying distances above the Lincoln Highwav. through Hannastown. and past what has been known since 1763 as the Bushy Run battlefield. A contemporaPi- writer once referred to Hannas- town (about 3-miles directly north of Greens- burg), as the "first collection of huts on the Penn- sylvania Road (highway only, at that time) be- tween Bedford and Pittsburgh, dignified by the name of a town." When Westmoreland Co. was set ofF from Bedford Co. in 1773. that place was made the county seat. St. Clair, first clerk of the court, sot)n resigned to re-enter military ser- vice. Here in almost a primeval wilderness, men from the Redstone, Georges Creek, ^oughiogheny, Monongahela and other trans-.AIIeghany regions met to arrange their larger affairs, and dispense justice according to the legal lorins of the period on the frontier. .At Hannastown, in the midst of what is still sometimes referred to as "Old \\ est- moreland," the first courts west of the Alleghanies were held. In the wooden Court there, the fa- mous "Resolves" of 1776 were passed, and every movement for independence was very popular throughout this sparsely-settled but intensely patriotic district. At the opening of the Revolution, Hannastown was the most important place west of the moun- tains except Pittsburgh and I.igonier. It was pillaged and burned by the Indians in July, 1782. and was never rebuilt, (jteensburg, settled shortly afterward, and incorporated in 1799, be- came the county seat, and has ever since been the principal town in the district, growing from a village of about 8C)0 in 184() to the present bor- ough of more than 15,000. Its first prosperity, due to the old Pike, was increased by the rail- road; and multiplied later by the extensive de- velopment of coal, coke and oil in the surrounding territory. 94 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Chapter VIII — Greensburg to Piltsbiirgh — 31} 2 Miles Through Irwin, East McKeesport, Turtle Creek, East Pittsburgh and Wilkinsburg; ivith alternate through Braddock Passing the Court House on the right, immedi- ately west of the intersection of N. Main and S. Main streets, the route continues out W. Pitts- burgh St., entering the last stretch of open coun- try before the busy suburbs east of Pittsburgh. At Grapeville, about 4J 9 miles beyond Greens- burg, we pass the connecting road to Jeannette, a manufacturing town on the main line of the Penn- sylvania R.R., a short two miles north. Bushy Run battlefield, the turning point of Pontiac's War in 1763, is about 2} 2 miles farther above the railroad at Jeannette; and may be reached that way. Tourists particularly inter- ested in the locality should inquire at either Jean- nette or Irwin, depending upon the direction of the trip. The map top page 49 shows its gen- eral location. For some time, the Bushy Run Memorial Asso- ciation has been planning a suitable memorial to Col. Henry Bouquet on these grounds. A bill appropriating )'>75, 000 for the purpose passed both houses of the Pennsylvania legislature in 1919, and was signed by the governor. The me- morial thus provided for will make the locality better known generally, while the completion of the new road up from Irwin, mentioned later, will greatly increase tourist travel to it. The highway now passes through somewhat rough and broken country, with an increasing number of derricks characteristic of a gas-and-oil section. Over to the right, about i^-mile north of our route, a short distance after passing through Adamsburg (some 3-miles east of Irwin), is the Brush Creek Church, a brick structure erected in 1814 near the site of an old log church, one of the first houses of worship west of the Alleghanies. Its records, in beautiful German script, well pre- served, show dates of confirmation and acces- sions to the congregation over a long early period. Beyond Adamsburg is Straw Pump, once the location of a tavern and blacksmith shop. The settlement was named from the fact that the "pump" along the roadside, made out of a very large log, was covered with straw during the win- ter to prevent freezing. In the fields on the left, just before the trolley comes in from the right, is the site of Fort Wal- thour, a stockade or block-house erected as a place of refuge and defense during the Indian wars. This region, being easil\' accessible from the west, suffered severely during the seasons of 1781-'82, especially just before the destruction of Hannas- town. The site has been identified with certain- ty, but nothing can now be seen of it. On the right-hand side, about a mile east of the center of Irwin, is a large, substantial stone house, originally built in 1794, at least in part, by Col. John Irwin. Though probably the oldest dwell- ing standing along this route west of the moun- tains, it is well preserved, and occupied now by the Misses Scull, great grand-daughters of John Scull, a son-in-law of Col. John Irwin, and one of the early editors and proprietors of the Pittsburgh Gazette, the first newspaper beyond the Alle- ghanies. Briefs About Irwin and Vicinity Irwin borough, entered by a long, easy down- grade, is of more recent date than the highway. In the summer of 1852, the main line of the Penn- sylvania R.R., a short distance over to the right, was constructed through here; in the fall of that year, lots were laid out by John Irwin, nephew of Col. John Irwin, the place taking its name from that family. Most ot this region is underlaid by a great bitu- minous coal formation known as the Pittsburgh seam. Beds from 3 to 9 feet thick could once have been opened almost anywhere; and "out- crops" are still noticed. Soon after the railroad was built through, the first mining here was from a "cart pit," in which Thomas A. Scott, after- wards president of the Pennsylvania, was a partner. P rom that small beginning, the predominant I'i'utu in A. /'. Ltinitinjit. Irwm IRWIN HOMESTEAD, IRWIN, PA. Former tavern property .tt intersection of Lincoln Highway and Main St. 95 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania Fbulo 6> J. K. Lacock BUSHY RUN BAril.lLI lia.D, WHERE I'ONTIACS REBELLION (1703) WAS CHECKED IN PENNSYLVANIA Northeast of the Lincoln HiRhway at Irwin. Pa.; for general location see map top page 4'>. This historic field is about to receive the care and attention its importance deserves. RollinK hills, often traversecf by ravines, and partially forest-covered landscapes, arc characteristic of the conniry along this .section of the route. industry of the section has been developed. Prac- tically all coal in the immediate vicinity of Irwin has been mined, and the tieid of operations widen- ened, particularly by the Westmoreland Coal Co. (Philadelphia), by opening new operations east and west along the railroad, and farther back in the countrv. Ihere are no other large industries; Irwin is becoming nKue a residence comnuinity. Being within commuting distance, it is the home of many employes of the W'estinghouse plants at Wilmerding and East Pittsburgh, and other in- dustries between here and the "Smoky City." Upon completion of the road from Irwin north- this will be the principal point trom which to leave the through route for Bushy Run battle- field. It will make a very interesting and the most natural connection to that locality, return- ing to the Lincoln Highway here. At the corner of Main St., where the trollev branches north, is an old brick house, originally ;i tavern; afterwards the home of John Irwm, toun- der of the borough. It is now occupied by .Mrs. Lydia Altman, a great-granddaughter; and may be identified, in addition to its general appearance, by vines covering most of the ends, and a large part of the front. This is a much later building th;in the home ot Col. John Irwin, passed about a mile t;irrher east, already mentioned. Ibe veranda and tront steps are modern. Double chimneys at each end, char- acteristic of old-time taverns, are outward evi- dence of the huge fireplaces for heating the large rooms on the ground floor. Leaving Irwin, the highway crosses a Pennsyl- vania R.R. branch extentling from the main line here to CumlH-rhiiul-Pittsbiirgh division, B. &: ()., at the Youghiogheny river. Cross with care; during parts of the day it is considerabl\' used by coal trains. First Stretch Wksi oi- Irwi.n A short mile beyond this crossing, we pass through Jacksonville, laid out by Humi^hrey Full- erton, whose ancestors acipured the land in the early days; and probably named after Andrew Jackson. On the right here is an old stone build- ing, formerly as now, a tavern, but not particu- larly interesting or historic. .^Iso on the north side of the highway, a short distance beyond Jack- sonville, is tbe brick residence of Mr. J. L. Ridin- ger. In IS 12. this was owned and the business conducted b\ William Hyndman, to whom a li- cense was granted by (lov. Snyder, according to the custom of that time, to keep public house and sell liquors. it was a well patronizetl ta\ ern during the stage- coach and freight-wagon era, which continued about 40 Years. The stone barn, a good example of earlv construction, is still in an excellent state of preservation. Ibis is the last property of its kind seen by the westbound traveler on this route, all of those west of here being too greatly altered to be recognized, or entirely removed. .'\t Cirdeville, the next place, the houses were originallv in the form of ;i partial circle; hence the name. Here \\ illi;ini Larimer was born, October 24. 1809. prob;ibly in the reconstructed dwelling (old log house, weather-boarded, giving a modern appearance), now owned and occupied by the Mc- F;irlane heirs, at the forks of the road, Cirdeville. .After engaging in r;iilroad construction in west- ern PennsN'lvania. Larimer removed to the far west of th;it time, entering business ;ind politics. He erected the first house in Denver, and atter- 96 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania ward became U. S. Commissioner and Judge of Probate. During the war of 1861-'65 he served the Union cause, civil and mihtary, west of the Missouri. Larimer St., Denver, Larimer Co., Colorado, and a station on the main line of the Pennsylvania R.R., north of Circleville, com- memorate his name. He died in 1875 near Leavenworth, Kansas. Two Crossings of the Braddock Road The present location of the Lincoln Highway was crossed twice at Circleville by the Braddock expedition of 1755 against Fort DuQuesne. It is generally understood that the road branching south from this point, passing through Madison to West Newton on the Youghiogheny, follows closely the route taken by Braddock's army after making this short loop. Braddock's scouts undoubtedly made a mis- take in going so far north, instead of following some more direct line from Mount Pleasant nearer the Monongahela. In fact, the steepness of the hills between this locality and the "Forks of the Ohio" led him to turn southwest by way of Long run and Crooked run, without again touching the line of this route. All traces of both the Brad- dock and Forbes roads through this section have disappeared. Both had the same destination, the French fort at the junction of the Allegheny and Monon- gahela. The Braddock Road crossed the latter at the present McKeesport; and after following along the south side for about 4-miles, recrossed near the mouth of Turtle creek, probably to avoid the high ridge just ahead on our shorter, later route. Forbes' army did not cross the Monon- gahela, but descended from the high ridge east of Turtle creek by a route probably not far from the present through highway. By a study of the topography, the general line of both routes may be determined with reasonable accuracy. A short distance beyond Circleville, we run out of Westmoreland Co. into Allegheny Co., the first town in which is East McKeesport, a place of about 2,500 population. The city of McKeesport, nearly 20 times as large, is about 4-miles south- west of the through highway at this point, an old and strategic situation on the north side of the Youghiogheny river at its junction with the greater Monongahela, shown on map page 104. First Chance to View the Monongahela Six-tenths of a mile after crossing the trolley in East McKeesport begins one of the longest and steepest single descents bv this route across the State, a drop of nearly 350 feet in 1 7-10 miles. If the day is clear, one will be well repaid for stop- ping at the top of this grade and walking a short distance, through the fields on the left, for a view of the Monongahela river and valley, only a frac- tion of a mile south from this last high elevation on the trip. Though railways have been constructed along both sides of it, the aggregate traffic on this river is probably greater now than ever before. But its character has greatly changed. Quite fre- quently in the past, a freight-carrying boat, and occasionally a passenger packet, could be seen making its slow way along the stream. That was the principal means of reaching Pittsburgh from points east of Brownsville on the National Pike before the completion of the next section of that road from Brownsville to the Ohio river at Wheel- Passengers and most light freight have been shifted to the railways. Now the stranger is likely to see one or more long lines of barges, towed by stern-wheeled steamer, conveying thou- sands of tons of bituminous coal, mostly from in- terior West Virginia, to Pittsburgh or farther west. When loaded, these are so low in the water that only their black tops and outer edges are visible, and they often stretch out to surprising length. While water transportation of coal is termed Photo by A. P. Cameron, Irwin THE RIDINGER HOMESTEAD About 1-miIc west of Irwin; once a popular stage-coach tavern "towing," the coal barges are really pushed by the steamboat, not drawn, a practice characteristic of western rivers. While there are more extensive views in the mountains, not one has the variety observed from this point. Looking down into the valley of Tur- tle creek, to which we soon descend, one may see Wilmerding, and perhaps identify the Westing- house Air Brake factory there. More nearly north is Turtle Creek borough, joined on its left by East Pittsburgh, whose most conspicuous fea- ture is the immense plant of the Westinghouse Electric & Mfg. Co. A trifle more to the left is the junction of Turtle creek with the Monongahela; and on the north side of the latter, only a little farther away, is Braddock, specially mentioned in later paragraphs. In the lengthening distance, generally west, are Rankin, Homestead (across the Monongahela), Wilkinsburg and other outlying districts of Pitts- burgh, while the location of that city may be clear- 97 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania ly approximated by the heavier smoke over it still farther beyond them. Nearly south from this lookout, one may identify DuQuesne (.across the Monongaliela), and possdil\' make out McKees- port. Even a quick survey of this remarkable com- posite scene is not likely to be forgotten. 1 he most advantageous locations through this region have been occupied, in times past, by various in- dustries; and multiplied populations have made their homes and conducted their business affairs amidst difficulties, topographical and otherwise. Under favorable conditions for observation, the visitor is better able to appreciate Andrew Carne- gie's frequent reference to the Pittsburgh district as the "Workshop of the World;" and is impressed with the constructive genius which accomplishes great things in this rough, smoky and noisy en- vironment. Down Into and Through Turtle Creek The descent from west of East McKeesport to Turtle creek borough should be made with care, on account of the steep grades; heavier traffic will also be met from here all the way into Pittsburgh. In the descent, the road leads somewhat ne;irer Wilmerding; and outlines of the Air Urake phmt, by far the greatest in the world, become clearer. The main street of Wilmerding, appropriately named Air Brake Ave., leads into our route on the other side of the railroad. At the foot of the long grade, ;i sharp right turn is made to cross a bridge over the m;iin line, Penn- sylvania R.R. (for the first time since Leaman Place, some miles east of Lancaster), and I urtle creek — the stream), descending a short grade on the farther side. Immediately turning left, one follows the trolley through the center of I'urtle Creek borough, a comparatively new place, in one of the most historic localities between the moun- tains and Pittsburgh. The name of the creek, dating back more than 170 years, undoubtedly came from abund;nir fish and reptile life there in early times. Nothing more will be seen of the stream, where- by we miss a point of great former interest, its junction with the Monongahela about a mile south. One of the early trading posts and store- houses of the Ohio Companv was loc;ited there; also the residence i)f John Fr;izier, Indian trader, with whom \\ ;ishington and (list stopped on their way to warn the !• rench from the .Allegheny re- gion in November, 1753. In fact, the phice con- tinued to be known as "Frazier's" until the loca- tion here of great industries began to change its character, and gradually obliterated both old landmarks and traces of former roads. Washington mentions it in his diaries of 1769-70-71; an entry for November 23, 1770, re- fers to "dining at the widow Mier's, on Turtle creek." The home of this widow, subsequently known as Mvers, was a 2-story stone house, with loopholes around the eaves for lookout in times of danger. It stood on the hillside at or near the corner of Sycamore St. and Monroeville Ave. I ourists over this routi- sonu- years ago may recall how the old Pike climhs the hill to the north of Turtle creek, passing above East I'lttsburnh. Since completion of Ardmore Boulevard, it has been to a large extent aban- doned, traffic following the easy grade of Ardmore Boule- vard from East Pittsburgh to Wilkinsburg. Vicinity of Br.^ddock's Field Six-tenths of a mile beyond the turn over the railroad at Turtle Creek station, we come along the west front of the Westinghouse Electric &: IMfg. Co., at East Pittsburgh, the greatest works of their kind under one roof. Here (unless using the alternate route through Hraddock, mapped and outlined on page 104), a right turn is made into Electric Ave., a narrow, often congested thoroughfare, developed within recent years as a connecting link into Ardmore Boulevard, subse- (luently mentioned. Running west along Electric Ave., we soon pass as near as the main through highway goes to the locality where Braddock's army was defeated July 9, 1755. That was on the north side of the Monongahela. some distance west of Turtle creek (stream), in the present Braddock. For many years afterward it was about as wild and uninhab- ited as in Braddock's day; and in .August, 1795, was the gathering place for about 7.CXJ0 insurgents in the "\^ hiskey Insurrection." subsequentl\- put down by the vigorous action ;ind tact ot Presi- dent \\ ashington. The greater part of the ground is now covered by the Edgar Thomson plant, Carnegie Steel Co. While changes have almost eliminated the deep ravine in w hich the principal attack by the I' rench and Indians upon the British and colonial forces took place, the general topography of the locality makes that engagement, and the military move- ments before and after, much clearer than can be conveyed by written descriptions alone. At the Braddock plant, Carnegie Steel Co., now one of the principal units of the U. S. Steel Corporation. Charles M. Schwab, working at 18 years of age for $b.i)0 a week, attracted the at- tention of Capt. W. R. Jones, one of the late .An- drew Carnegie superintendents, and soon th;it of the great ironmaster himself. Beyond Braddock, on the opposite side of the Monongahela (thus somewhat farther from our route, but shown on the map page 104), are the Homestead works, Carnegie Steel Co. (U. S. Steel Corporation), scene of the great strike which lasted from July into November, 1892. In that forerunner of the great conflicts since between capital and labor, the late Henry Clay Frick, then partner of Andrew Carnegie :ind manager of that plant, was shot by the anarchist, Alexander Berk- man, who bv a singular coincidence, was deported by the government in 1919, at almost the exact hour of Mr. Frick's de;ith. At one time, sever;il hundred Pinkerton nun were brought from Pittsburgh up the river on barges to protect the steel works and the non- union men; but were attacked by the old em- ployees, and after several casualties were forced to capitulate. Intense excitement was caused throughout the country by this long-drawn-out 98 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvaina and bitter conflict. Mr. Frick recovered, after- wards relinquishing his partnership with Mr. Carnegie, becoming head of the H. C. Frick Coke Co., the predominant factor in that industry, and a power in finance. East Pittsburgh to and Through Wilkinsburg Leaving East Pittsburgh, the tourist runs out of the industrial zone (which continues along the river practically all way into the city), and enters an extensive resident district. 3}2mdesfrom the Westinghouse plant, the trolley turns left; but Ardmore Boulevard leads straight ahead. On the right, in a reverse fork just beyond where the trolley leaves, is a small statue of Lincoln, the only memorial of the President after whom the high- way has been named, seen since Gettysburg. A half mile farther on, we cross Wood St., at the center of Wilkinsburg, a large residence su- burb of Pittsburgh. Just west of Wood St., the main thoroughfare, now Penn Ave., passes under 4 viaducts carrying the main line of the Pennsyl- vania R.R. overhead. Before the construction of these viaducts, a few years ago, this was the most dangerous set of grade crossings on this route, if not in the State. Not far beyond, the tourist runs out of Wil- kinsburg borough into the "East End," a term applied to the entire residential section east of Shadyside (from the city line to within about 3 or 332 miles of the Court House in downtown Pitts- burgh). Fine homes become more frequent on both sides of the avenue; and many more are with- in a few blocks of the route. On the right-hand (north) side, between Dallas and Linden avenues, is a tablet, erected in 1914 by the Pennsylvania Society, Colonial Dames of America, to mark the Forbes Road — the only one on the entire route. This is attached to an old oak stump just within the railing enclosing the lawn of a private residence; when the accompany- ing view was taken, a flag of 13 stars waved over It from a small staff mounted on top. Marching toward Fort DuQuesne, Forbes' army crossed the present Penn Ave. where this marker has been placed. There is a tradition that Washington, an officer in that expedition, rested for awhile under the tree subsequently known as "Washington's Oak." No sign of that old road now remains; though Forbes St., Pittsburgh, about midway between our route and the Monongahela, was named after that general, no part of it was on his line of march in 1758. The name was probably given arbitrarily, like other streets called after men active in the early settle- ment of western Pennsylvania; and was not cut all the way through, probably until after the 40's. "Automobile Row" and Motor Organization Headquarters We now cross 5th Ave., the first downtown street extending several miles east; this intersec- tion (Penn and Sth avenues), is locally called "Point Breeze." Farther along. East Liberty station, Pennsylvania R.R. is passed on the right; this station serves a large residential district, and all through trains stop there. Just west of it, we cross a bridge over the railroad, and run along Penn Ave. 3-10 mile to the intersection of Whit- field St. There (leaving Penn Ave., which con- tinues downtown by an inferior route) a left turn is made, past the Y. M. C. A. on right, to end of Whitfield St., turning right into Baum St. The Automobile Club of Pittsburgh, whose ofii- ces include the headquarters of the Pennsylvania Motor Federation, are in the building on the northeast corner of Baum and Beatty streets, im- mediately opposite Motor Square Garden. Mem- bers of clubs in other localities are welcome to call there for touring or other information. The business district about here, with Penn Ave. from Highland to Shady as the center, is known as East Liberty, to which the name of the railroad sta- tion, a short distance back, corresponds. For more than a mile, this section of Baum St. or Boulevard, is the "Automobile Row" of Pitts- burgh; even a run through without stop impresses the stranger with the number and variety of mo- tor car agencies, many occupying large and costly buildings. We continue across Negley Ave., and then Liberty Ave., the second downtown avenue extending a considerable distance east of the bus- iness section. Just beyond Liberty Ave., Baum Boulevard crosses a low stone bridge over the de- pressed tracks of the Pennsylvania R.R., and then the Atherton Ave. bridge over the Pittsburgh Junction R.R. Short Side-trip to Schenley Park Though now only about 3-miles from the end of this trip, unless the tourist plans to spend some additional time in and around Pittsburgh, a short detour to see portions of Schenley Park, the Car- negie Institute and the University of Pittsburgh, is recommended. [Whether this is done, or the direct route followed all the way in, the map, "Into and out of Pittsburgh," page 102, will be found a useful reference.] Where Baum Boulevard comes to an end at Craig St. (and a right turn continues the regular route downtown), turn left and follow Craig St. a half mile to the cathedral, corner of Fifth Ave. Turn right on Fifth Ave., and continue ahead 3 squares, passing the Masonic Temple and Pitts- burgh Athletic Association (on left). Now turn left on Bigelow Boulevard, crossing Forbes St., direct into Schenley Park. The Carnegie Insti- tute buildings are in plain sight to the left (oppo- site the end of Bellefield Ave., one of the streets crossed in running from the Cathedral, at Craig St. and Fifth Ave., to Bigelow Boulevard, just be- fore entering the park). A few basic facts about this great educational foundation must suffice here. The Institute, founded by the late Andrew Carnegie in 1896, re- ceived from him thirty million dollars for con- struction, equipment and endowment. It com- prises the Museum, Fine Arts department. Music Hall, Library School, Library System (central library and eight branch libraries), and the great Institute of Technology, with an enrollment of about 4,000 students. The main building is a 99 r!i< = i = —■'--? ; s < D o 1- < < iSai - - = 5= >> :< .- — t/> ^ = < u 3 m 1/1 - c u i ■-'S E ,; J >- ^ :^ wj; . •i t.i~ u S ■£22: S'5.H f. 5 : c c I] 2 I" S i = > e r" u '- ''' -:. 5,^.5 S ■5 a- £■< a^ Oo.=-5-£-5.i L ^1 i:kiiSJ^^^ ir ES.2 "§° > - z .sj > J 2 ji-S ail c ■= ? -3 aS i ^•5 -St a. i2j; S ££ =•£ P ., = = ■^ St c — f = 3 — = o:.2;-5. ; .= C-C o S o z I u u H 11 i= S > ' ^i S u 0-0 Si as ■^ a w O (J I/) 100 The Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania structure of classical type whose general dimens- ions are 400x600 feet. The Institute of Technology is primarily con- cerned with technical education, carrying out, as it were, the aims of Benjamin Franklin, on a plan far beyond the conceptions or facilities of his time. Its work is grouped mto four main divis- ions: (1) courses in engineering for men; (2) courses in the iine and applied arts for both men and women; (3) industrial courses for men, and (4) courses tor women which combine trammg for the home and for a profession. Each of the four sep- arate schools has its own building, faculty and students; each provides both day and evening in- struction. These are as follows: 1. School of Applied Science, the engineering college. 2. School of Applied Design, the art school. 3. School of Applied Industries, the industrial school. 4. Margaret Morrison Carnegie School, the college for women. The lasting impression from even passing glimpses of this great practical philanthropy is more than worth the brief time required to see these outward evidences of it. A drive through the main area of Schenley Park will increase the interest of the visitor. Inside the park, which is traversed by well-kept drives, are several histor- ical and other landmarks, and some notable mon- uments. One may run west a short distance from the Carnegie Institute along Forbes St. to a choice of short cross-streets leading to the grounds of the University of Pittsburgh, affording excellent views of it. Founded in 1787, this is the oldest institu- tion of learning, except the University of Nash- ville, Tenn., west of the Alleghanies. Besides the college, there are schools of education, econom- ics, engineering, mines, chemistry, medicine, law, dentistry, pharmacy and the graduate school. The close proximity of this old university, which is to receive a large bequest from Mr. Flick's will, to the much younger, heavily en- dowed Carnegie Institute, makes the locality one of possibly unequalled educational prominence. Turning right, along the south side of the Uni- versity grounds into the Bigelow Boulevard, one is headed back toward the through route, left at Baum Boulevard and Craig St. First Views of the Three Rivers Following Bigelow Boulevard (northward), the tourist comes back into the direct route at the an- gle of Craig St., 2-10-mile north of the point where it was left, at the end of Baum Boulevard, for the side-trip to the Carnegie Institute and the Uni- versity of Pittsburgh. [That small piece of Craig St. is the only part of the through route not cov- ered when the detour recommended is made]. Craig St. and this section of Bigelow Boulevard meet, as the map shows, like the blades of a pair of shears, nearly closed. Almost immediately the boulevard curves around to the left, unfolding a series of most in- teresting views. North and west, considerably 101 below, is the Allegheny river, along whose banks are a number of industries, though none as large as some of those beside the Monongahela south and southeast of here. Apparently every avail- able space in those industrial localities has been taken for residential purposes, literally "bunches" of homes being visible from these points of van- tage. This scenic roadway, leading down a rather steep grade, was known until a few years ago as the Grant Boulevard. After the death of E. M. Bigelow, who as Director of Public Works, City of Pittsburgh, was largely instrumental in build- ing that thoroughfare, it was renamed "Bigelow Boulevard" in his memory. Part of its right-of-way was cut through solid rock. Somewhat more than half-way down, the boulevard passes under an "incline" by which traffic is lifted from the river-front to nearby thoroughfares, over grades that could not be sur- mounted by ordinary means. Pbolo by Thomas R. Hartley, Pitlsburgb TABLET ON LINCOLN HIGHWAY LEADING INTO PITTS- BURGH, MARKING A LOCATION ON THE FORBES ROAD (1758) The long downgrade of this boulevard affords a most interesting view of the number and variety of bridges spanning the Allegheny. It may be worth while to stop in a carefully selected spot for a better view of them than can be had even when moving slowly. Looking as far as possible north- east, in fairly clear weather, one may see faint outlines of several bridges stretched across from the outlying north side of the greater city to the string of suburbs on the west side beyond the present city limits. Perhaps the farthest one easily identified is the great structure by which the Pennsylvania lines west of Pittsburgh are carried over. To the left (west) of that are four highway bridges across the Allegheny before its waters reach the "Point," the view of which is shut off in part by the great Union Bridge, the lowest down of all, and the buildings of the city now at our feet. To the south and southwest are some extremely limited views of the Monongahela. 2 rt rt "3 : - = S " 5^ S^ s !: c ■£ = = ;_■ .§ 5 « rt C « X, •00 CO a; -= Si ^ -_ E' = ?.- H^ •^-i'*- ^ t: - = :i Si- - -=— jJ-c 2 « S^ S^ £ — -E c ?• = -^S*^-' — ^-S" >- =:£ — a: ? 2 i--^>-^ o c S C " M S i- -^ S ? S = — c ^ !i c t-_,^._---r c " re-5 pa: JIj: a j; ^ =^ ^ i n -^ .;. ^. ~ -— ^^ S ^ r^ ' ^ c S>— --.r-a 1^ ^ ^^ ^ _^ 4j C-_' "^ E S ^ - ^ '^ "" IJ _C o ^-O^ -a " c o ra o.=-«£- 3 ■ « ■_ M w t) > o r3 O -= o t ^ ^ j: :^ > _v; t^ w ^ u r-' ^ 3f c a> :.E ii_G_ci C_5 to i> £ _c c p— - - ^— - • - (J ^ Z *^ !> ,t- o _ -X - -5 5 £.5 S ix o fa m CO o Q 'M o fa §-?l'^-2-^ •5 S'Hi = > K «^ '■ ,-3 a f -^ 5, J2 c . 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A short jog to the left, and a right turn into Oliver Ave., leads between the William Penn Hotel, on the right, and Union Arcade, on the left, about the beginning of the central business section and the most congested streets. The usual way through the business district is along Oliver Ave., crossing Smithfield St. (Oliver Building on right), to its end at Liberty Ave. Go- ing through without stop to the Lincoln Highway west of Pittsburgh, or to Cleveland and Great Lakes points generally, one would turn left from Oliver Ave. into Liberty Ave. and continue along same to cross the Allegheny river at the "Point." That, however, is beyond the scope of our pres- ent subject, which ends here, after traversing the historic old thoroughfare from the Delaware river at Philadelphia to the Ohio. The through route west ot Pittsburgh belongs to a considerably later period; and needs to be treated, as will probably be done in due time, from somewhat different angles. The "Block-House," Relic of Indian Wars The visitor in downtown Pittsburgh will find it convenient, as well as interesting, to look up the block-house, the only remaining landmark of co- lonial days at the "Forks of the Ohio." To reach it, after turning left from Oliver Ave. into Liberty Ave., continue on Liberty Ave. to its end at Water St., facing the Monongahela. Turn right on Wa- ter St. (river on left), and follow it past an alley tor the next right-hand street, Penn Ave., on which there are car tracks. Turning right on Penn Ave., one will see, on the left just beyond, the entrance to the block-house, reached by footway. Both Fort DuQuesne, the French post, and Fort Pitt, its English successor, were somewhat nearer the actual "Point," as the insert diagram in the lower left-hand corner of the map page 102 will show; all traces of them have long since been removed. This block-house, or redoubt, was erected in 1764 by Col. Henry Bouquet, after that capable officer had relieved Fort Pitt from the In- dians who had secured possession during Pontiac's rebellion, the previous year. 1 he building is 15x16 feet, 22 feet in height, and 20 feet from the floor to the eaves of the roof. It was built of heavy logs, which still remain, though the old-fashioned clapboards with which it is cov- ered were a part of the considerable "restoration" necessary to adopt it to present uses. In 1894, Mrs. Mary E. Schenley deeded it to the Pitts- burgh Chapter, Daughters of the American Rev- olution, who now maintain it as a museum of co- lonial and Revolutionary relics. At the time of Col. Bouquet's expedition to re- lieve Fort Pitt in 1763, that fort had not been de- stroyed or seriously injured by the attack of the Indians. According to the map of Pittsburgh made in 1795, the southern end of Fort Pitt touched Liberty St., and extended across the present location of Penn Ave., about one-fourth of it being north of Penn Ave. This block-house was built outside of and just north of the fort proper; in no way intended as a substitute for the fort or place of refuge for the settlers, the small size precluding its use for such purposes. Washington's diary of his visit to this section in 1770, several years after the block-house was built, states that there were then about 20 log houses "ranged in streets along the Mononga- hela," and mostly inhabited by Indian traders. Western Pennsylvania was still exposed to the dangers of Indian raids, which accounts for the port-holes — used both for observation and to re- pel attacks — shown in the illustration,. Pboto bv Department oj Public Works, City oJ Pittsburgb "BLOCK-HOUSE," NEAR THE "POINT." 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V ^oV %/ ••»• \./ ••^^••. %.** •• "b"^, aV ^ . .« A • %/ ••^■•- \./ ••^••. %.*"■ •^'•: \./ /^■•. %.** ••- %' •^'^ li '-^o^ .♦^-V. ^^c,v t -^^^^ ^^c,''' '^ A^ ♦*« 4* »!^"*, '^^ 5°^ ..^- .^^ 6.^ t^ o ^••. "^o <> *'TV HECKMAN BINDERY INC. |§j ^^ NOV 89 N. MANCHESTER, INDIANA 46962 .<^^'^. .V^.