Streiff's System of Garment Cutting' E.L. STREIFF Streiff's System of Garment Cutting By E. L. STREIFF Copyright 1913 ...by... EUGENE L. STREIFF DETROIT, MICHIGAN All Rights Reserved Under Berne Convention ■y "1 Streiff's System INTRODUCTION For a score of years the custom trade has been losing prestige and going from the custom to the ready to wear, until, at the present time, about 80 per cent of all clothing is put on the market by the ready-to-wear manufacturer, which is the reverse percentage of conditions twenty years ago. The reason for such reversal is inaccurate methods of cutting, which fact compels the retention of the system of making as in ye olden time, with about the same convenience and economy of manufacture. Such a condition will not permit competition with modern methods of the ready-to-wear. The mak- ing of clothes to order is the most satisfactory to the consumer, because choice of cloths, style of cut and workmanship can be ordered to the individual taste. The cost of manufacture would be no more than the cost of ready-to-wear; and, considering all things, the custom trade should be a live leader and not trail. Since the advent of modern clothing many an attempt has been made by members of the craft to discover a system that would be reliable in establishing the fitting points on all forms of man, but up to the present time without avail. A multiplicity of methods are practiced by the craft with vari- able success. Tailors find experience and judgment necessary to right the mistakes caused by sys- tems based on eroneous principles. Experience is hard to obtain and judgment is a rare quality, therefore something more is required to produce balance and fit in garments. Having acquired a system by persistent study and practice that will meet the requirements of the craft, I publish the same in the belief that any improvement will receive that patronage which its importance demands. This system herein contained is not an improved nor a redressed system of proportions, but is based on actual circumferential measures well known to the craft. The balance leng.h, position and slope of shoulder, as well as suppression of the back, are obtained in a new and scientific way, positively reliable. Every point of the whole system moves as man does in his change of attitude, thereby insuring at all times a truly balanced garment to the careful operator. The system is so arranged that the rearrangement of seams to suit style changes can be easily accomplished without disarrangement of the important fitting points. The enlargement of garments to any size desired has been provided for by additions to certain measures. The measures are few in number and easy to take accurately; are all circumferential excepting lengths. Geometry is the fundamental science that permitted the solution of the problem involved. For the convenience of the student, every diagram is explained in full. That my humble efforts will merit the approbation of the craft and that the system will eventu- ally become a standard, is the belief of j :.■ Yours truly, EUGENE L. STREIFF. ©CLA348787 Streiff's System EUGENE L. STREIFF StreifFs System DIAGRAMS A AND B. TO MEASURE THE COAT. Take all measures for overcoat, coat or vest, over the vest. Establish point A, at the socket bone of neck, find the center of back at B, establish C at the hollow of waist. Measure the length of sleeve under the arm from E to F. To measure the shoulder-balance stand to one side and toward the back of the client. Place the end of the tape at A, hold it firm with the three fingers of the left hand, allowing the thumb and index finger to be free. Now pass your right hand under the arm and draw the tape to E (as line G on diagram B indicates). Now use your index finger to place the tape close under the arm, then allow the arm to fall and hang naturally; draw the tape upward a little and pass it diagonally acrcss the back to the thumb and index finger left free; now change hands without allowing the tape to slip and finish the measure, with the tape in the left hand, to A. Measure the attitude by bringing the tape down over the most prominent part of the shoulder blade to the center of back at B. NOTE: Always take the shoulder-balance and at- titude measures twice so as to be sure they are correct. Measure the natural-waist from A to C. Measure the length from A to D. Measure the breast over the fullest part of the chest and most prominent part of the blade at E. Measure the waist over the smallest part at C and H. THE VEST. Measure the opening from A to I. Measure the length from A to J. THE TROUSERS. Measure the outside length from H, a point on the hip, to K, a point I inch from the floor. Measure the inside length from L to M. Measure the waist, under the vest, over the trousers, at H. Measure the seat over the large part at N. Measure the knee at O. Measure the bottom at P. NOTE: Care must be taken to measure uniform, not loose nor tight. 1 he client should stand in his natural attitude. StreifFs System Diagram A Diagram B Streiff's System DIAGRAM C. Note: All measures are taken over ihe vest. lo obtain ease or exageration certain measures must be in- creased. Such measures are: Shoulder-balance, atti- tude, breast, waist and seat. Add Yl inch to shoulder- balance and attitude measures and for each Yl inch so added to shoulder-balance and attitude add 1 inch to breast, waist and seat measures. Thus the size of a coat may be increased as desired. For the following diagram 1 inch has been added to shoulder balance and attitude and 2 inches to breast, waist and seat measures. THREE-BUTTON SACK. The Measures: Sleeve under arm 18 Shoulder balance 28 Attitude 24 Natural waist 17 Length 30 Breast 40 Waist 35 Seat 41 TO DRAFT. A is the point from which square. B from A is the natural waist. C from A is the length. D from A is I 3 shoulder balance. E from D is 1 48 shoulder balance. Square forward from E, B and C. F from B is I 16 attitude. G from F is Y+ inch for each inch the waist is less than the breast, I ' 4 inches for this diagram. H trom G is Yi waist. I from H is 2Yl inches. J from I is 24 inch, or Yl 'he amount desired for lap- over. Square down from J. K. from E is Yl breast. L from K is 2'/2 inches. M from L is '4 inch, or Yl the amount desired for lap- over. Draw a line from M to J. N from E is Yl attitude plus I Yl inches for making. 1 3'/2 inches for this diagram. Square up and down from N. O from E is '4 of the distance as between E and N. P from O is the same distance as between E and N. Square up from P, guiding by point O. Q from P is Yl attitude plus 1 inch for making, 1 3 inches for this diagram. R from E is the same distance as between E and A plus I Yl inches (or plus the amount added to Yl attitude as from E to N). S from R is the same distance as between R and P. Square back from Q, guiding by point S. Square forward from Q. For all divisional not otherwise specified use Yl of attitude plus 1 inch always, which for this diagram is I 3 inches. T from A is Ya- Square up from T. U from T is I 24. V fromE is 1/12. W from V is Yl- Square up from W. X from W is '/g. Square forward from X. Y from W is 1 /3. Z from Y is I 6. Square forward from Z. 1 from Z is I 24. Draw a line from T to 1 and shape the top and armscye of back as represented. 2 from N is I 12. 3 from Q is I 6. Draw a line from 3 to L. 4 from 3 is Yl- Square to 4, guiding by line P-Q. 5 from W is Yl of 'he distance as between B and F. Square down from 5. 6 is at the intersection of the lines squared down from 5 and forward from B. 7 from 6 is the same distance as between B and G. 8 from 7 is Ya inch for each inch the seat is larger than the waist, 1 Yl inches for this diagram. Square down from 8. 9 from 8 is Yl natural waist. Square back from 9. 10 from 9 is I 24 seat. Draw a line from 8 through 10. I 1 from 8 is the same distance as between B and C. Square forward from I I, guiding by line 8-10. 12 is the junction of the lines squared forward from 1 I and down from N. Square forward from I 2. I 3 from 6 is the same disctance as between B and F. Draw a line from I 3 to 10. Shape the side seam of back from a point opposite X to 6 and of the fore part to a point Ya inch back from I 3 as represented. Shape the center seam of back reducing about Y% inch at B as represented. Shape the bottom of fore part. 1 4 from N is 2 3 sleeve under arm and is center of pocket. Draw the pocket opening through 1 4 to parallel the bottom of fore part and make bYl inches in width, more or less, as desired. The breast pocket is I inch from N. Cut out the back and place point A at point Q with the line A-O on the line squared back from Q by point S. Mark around same and shape the shoulder, reducing Yl inch at the armscye. Shape the neck gorge through 4 and the armscye as represented. Draw a line from the center of armscye to 14 and shape as represented. Note: The amount to be taken out must rot exceed the distance between F and G. When a close fitting waist is desired take out the full amount. Establish the buttonholes. Draw a crease line from a point 1 Y4 inches from the neck gorge to the upper buttonhole. Draw a cutout '4 inch from 4. Shape the lapel and front. For a double-breasted coat add from L and I Yl the amount desired for lapover. Streiff's System 8 Streiffs System DIAGRAM D. THREE-BUTTON SACK, CORPULENT FORM. The Measures: Sleeve under arm I (>Yl Shoulder balance 30 Yl Attitude 27 Natural waist 17 Length 30 Breast -!8 Waist 49 Seat 48 NOTE: The shoulder balance and attitude measures have been increased I inch and the breast, waist and seat measures 2 inches each. (See note to diagram C for explanation.) TO DRAFT. A is the point from which square. B from A is the natural waist. C from A is the length. D from A is 1 /3 shoulder balance. E from D is 1 48 shoulder balance. Square forward from E, B and C. F from B is 1 16 attitude. G from F is Ya inch for each inch the waist is larger than the breast, Ya inch for this diagram. H from G is Yl waist. I from H is 2^2 inches. J from I is % inch or Yl the amount desired for lap- over. Square down from J. K from E is Yl breast. L from K is 2'/2 inches. M from L is Yj, inch or Yl the amount desired for lap- over. Draw a line from M to J. N from E is Yl attitude plus 1 Yl inches for making, 1 5 inches for this diagram. Square up and down from N. O from E is Ya of the distance as between E and N. P from O is the same distance as between E and N. Square up from P. guiding by Point O. Q from P is Yl attitude plus 1 inch for making, 14'/2 inches for this diagram. R from E is the same distance as between E and A plus 1 Yl inches (or plus the amount added to Yl attitude as from E to N). S from R is the same distance as between R and P. Square back from Q, guiding by point S. Square forward from Q. For all divisionals not otherwise specified use Yl of attitude plus 1 inch always, which for this diagram is l4'/2 inches. T from A is '/i- Square up from T. U from T .s 1 24. V from E is I 12. W from V is Yl- Square up from W. X from W is '/a. Square forward from X. Y from W is 1 3. Z from Y is I /6. Square forward from Z. 1 from Z is 1 /24. Draw a line from T to 1 and shape the top and armscye of back as represented. 2 from N is 1/12. 3 from Q is 1 /6. Draw a line from 3 to L. 4 from 3 is Yl- Square to 4, guiding by line P-Q. 5 from W is Yl °f the distance as between B and G. Square down from 5. 6 is at the intersection of the lines squared down from 5 and forward from B. 7 from 6 is the same distance as between B and G. 8 from 7 is Ya inch for each inch the seat is less than the waist, Ya inch for this diagram. Square down from 8. 9 from 8 is Yl natural waist. Square back from 9. 10 from 9 is I 24 seat. Draw a line from 8 through 10. 1 I from 8 is the same distance as between B an C. Square forward from 1 I, guiding by line 8-10. 1 2 is the junction of the lines squared forward from 1 I and down from N. Square forward from 12. Draw a line from 7 to 11. Shape the side seam of back from a point opposite X to 6 and of the forr part to a point Ya inch back from 7 as represented. Shape the center seam of back, reducing about y% inch at B as represented. Shape the bottom of fore part. 1 3 from N is 2 3 sleeve under arm and is center of pocket. Draw the pocket opening through 1 3 to parallel the bottom of fore part and make 7 inches in width, more or less, as desired. Cut aut the back and place point A at point Q with the line A-O on the line squared back from Q by point S. Mark around same and shape the shoulder, reducing Yl inch at the armscye. Shape the neck gorge through 4 and the armscye as represented. I 4 from J is I 24 waist. Shape from M, reducing at J through 14, so that the line when drawn will have but a slight curve. Establish the buttonholes. Draw a crease line from a point 1 Ya inches from the neck gorge to the upper buttonhole. 1 5 is in front of pocket. Square down from 1 5 by the waist line. 1 6 is at the junction of the line squared down from 15 and forward from 1 2. Square back to 1 6, guiding by the line shaped through I 4 and square up by same to 15. I 7 is the junction of the line squared back to 1 6 and up to 15. Draw a line from the center of armscye to a point I inch from the back of pocket. Cut on line also pocket opening to 15; now fold so that line 15-16 is on line 15-17, which will cause the pocket opening and under arm cut to spread. Draw a cutout at X and shape the lapel and front. Streiff's System 10 Streiff's System DIAGRAM E. THE SLEEVE TO DIAGRAM C 1 he Measures: Sleeve under arm Attitude .18 .24 TO DRAFT. For all divisionals not otherwise specified use Yl of attitude plus 1 inch always, which for this diagram is 1 3 inches. A is the point from which square. B from A is 1 3. C from A is 2 3. D from B is 1 12. Square back from D and B. E from C is the amount 1 3 inches. Draw a line from E to C. F from E is 1 6. Draw a line from F to C. G is at the intersection of the lines drawn from E to C and squared back from D. Circle from E, pivoting at G. H is at the intersection of the line circled from E and squared back from A. I from D is '/» inch always. Draw a line from H to I. Shape the undersleeve to I as represented. J from B is I / 1 2 sleeve under arm. K from B is Yl sleeve under arm. Draw a line down from K, guiding by point J. L from K is Yl sleeve under arm. Square back from L, guiding by line K-L. M from L is Yl of the amount desired for width of cuff plus Yl inch, 7 inches for this diagram. N is half way between L and M. O is established by squaring down from E and back from K. Draw a line from O through M and square forward by same to N as represented. Shape at O as represented. Shape from a point Y\ mcn back from F to M as represented. Shape at N and K as represented. Streiff's System 11 Diagram E 12 StreifFs System DIAGRAMS F AND G. THE COLLARS. DIAGRAM F. STORM COLLAR. TO DRAFT. A is established by placing the shoulder of the back and tore part in a locked position and marking around the back as represented. Remove the back. B is established at the hollow part of the neck gorge on the fore part. C from B is I [/4 inches. Draw a line through C to the upper buttonhole. Circle from A, pivoting at B. D is at the junction of the lines circled from A and drawn through C. E from D is the same distance as between A and D. Draw a line from E to B and shape from E to B as represented. Square up from E, guiding by the line shaped from E to B. F from E is the same distance as between B and C. Shape from F to C to parallel the line shaped from E to B. G from F is the width desired, 4 inches for this dia- gram. Shape from G as represented. DIAGRAM G. THE COLLAR TO DIAGRAM C. TO DRAFT. A is established by placing the shoulder of the back and fore part in a locked position and marking around the back as represented. Remove the back. B is established at the hollow part of neck gorge on the fore part. C from B is 1 \% inches. Draw a line through C to the upper buttonhole. Circle from A, pivoting at B. D is at the junction of the lines circled from A and drawn through C. E from D is the same distance as between A and D. Draw a line from E to B and square forward by same from E. F from E is the same distance as between B and C. Draw a line from F to C. Apply the width of leaf desired from F and shape to taste. Streiff's System 13 Diagram F Diagram C 14 StreifFs System DIAGRAM H. SINGLE-BREASTED VEST. The Measures: Shoulder balance 27 Altitude 23 Natural waist 17 Breast 38 Waist 33 Opening 14 Length 26 TO DRAFT. A is the point from which square. B from A is the natural waist. C from B is Yi natural waist. D from A is 1 3 shoulder balance. E from D is 1 48 shoulder balance. Square forward from E and B. F from B is 116 attitude. G from F is Y* inch for each inch the waist is less than the breast, I |/4 inches for this diagram. H from G is Yl waist. I from H is 2 inches. Square down from I. J is half way between I and G. K. from E is Yl breast. L from K. is 2 inches. Draw a line from L to I. M is half way between L and E. Draw a line from M to J. N from E is Yl attitude plus I inch for making, \2Yl inches for this diagram. Square up from N. O from E is Yj, of the distance as between E and N. P from O is the same distance as between E and N. Square up from P, guiding by point O. Q From P is Yl attitude plus I inch for making, 12' j inches for this diagram. R from E is the same distance as between E and A plus I inch (or plus the amount added to Yl atti- tude as from E to N). Note: Points R and M come together on this diagram. S from R is the same distance as between R and P. Square back from Q, guiding by point S. Square forward from Q. For all divisional not otherwise specified use Yl of attitude plus I inch always, which for this diagram is I 2Yl inches. T from A is 1 4. Square up from T. U from T is I 24. V from E is I 16. W from V is Yl- Square up from W. X from W is Yl- Y from X is I 24. Square forward from Y. Z from Y is I 32. Draw a line from T to Z and shape the top and armscye of back as represented. 1 from Q is I 6. Draw a line from 1 to L. 2 from J is the same distance as between F and G. Draw a line from M through 2. Shape at J as represented. 3 from 2 is I 6 natural waist. Draw a line from Cto 3. 4 is established at the waist line by squaring to W, guiding by line C-3. Draw a cutout equaling the distance less Yl inch as between B and F and divide equally on either side of 4 as represented. Shape at B, reducing Y& inch. 5 from J is the same distance as between 2 and 3. 6 from Q is the opening plus I inch for making. 7 from Q is the length plus I inch for making. Draw a line from 5 to 7. Cut out the back and place point A at point Q with the line A-O on the line squared back from Q by point S. Mark around same and schape the shoulder slightly at the armscye. Shape the armscye to M. Draw a line from a point at the neck gorge where back and fore part meet (called the shoulder point) to 6. Establish the buttonholes and pockets and shape from Q to 6 as represented. 8 from Q is Yl inch always. Square back from 8 by line shaped from Q to 6 and finish the neck strap as represented. Shape the front and bottom. The dot and dash lines represent vest with collar. 9 from the shoulder point is Yl inch less than the dis- tance from the shoulder point to Q. Square forward and back from 9, guiding by the crease line. Shape the neck gorge as represented. Draw a line 54 inch from 9 to connect with the neck gorge for a collar stand. Shape the leaf to taste. For material that requires seaming make the collar stand Yl inch wider as represented by the dot and dash line ending in a spear point. For double-breasted vest add to the front of line L-I Yl of the amount desired for lapover. The line I -L is front whenever the opening does not reach the breast line. The neck gorge for clerical vest is obtained the same as for coat. Streiffs System 15 Diagram H 16 StreifFs System DIAGRAM I. DOUBLE-BREASTED VEST, CORPULENT FORM. The Measures: Shoulder balance 29 J/2 Attitude 26 Natural waist 17 Breast 46 Waist 47 Opening 16 Length 28J/ 2 TO DRAFT. A is the point from which square. B from A is the natural waist. C from B is ' s natural waist. D from A is I 3 shoulder balance. E from D is I 48 shoulder balance. Square forward from E and B. F from B is I 16 attitude. G from F is J/4 inch for each inch the waist is larger than the breast, ! 4 inch for this diagram. H from G is Yl waist. I from H is 2 inches. Square down from I. J is half way between I and G. K from E is Yl breast. L from K is 2 inches. Draw a line from L to I. M is half way between L and E. Draw a line from M through J. N from E is Yl attitude plus 1 inch for making, 14 inches for this diagram. Square up from N. O from E is Ya of the distance as between E and N. P from O is the same distance as between E and N. Square up from P, guiding by point O. Q from P is Yl attitude plus 1 inch for making, 1 4 inches for this diagram. R from E is the same distance as between E and A plus 1 inch (or plus the amount added to Yl atti- tude as from E to N). S from R is the same distance as between R and P. Square back from Q, guiding by point S. Square forward from Q. For all divisional not otherwise specified use Yl of attitude plus 1 inch always, which for this diagram is I 4 inches. T from A is ','4. Square up from T. U from T is 1 24. V from E is I 16. W from V is Yl- Square up from W. X from W is Yl- Y from X is 1 24. Square forward from Y. Z from Y is I 32. Draw a line from T to Z and shape the top and armseye of back as represented. 1 from Q is 1 6. Draw a line from 1 to L. 2 from 1 is Yl- Square to I, guiding by line P-Q. Square down from 2 by line just squared. 3 from 2 is 1 12. 4 from J is 1 6 natural waist. Draw a line from C to 4. Shape at J as represented. • 5 is established at the waist line by squaring to W, guiding by line C-4. Draw a cutout equaling the distance less Yl inch as between B and G and di- vide equally on either side of 5 as represented. Shape at B, reducing % inch. 6 from J is the same distance as between 4 and J. 7 from Q is the opening plus 1 inch for making. 8 from Q is the length plus I inch for making. Draw a line from 6 toward 8. 9 from I is 1 24 waist. Draw a line from a point the same distance below L as 9 is below I through 9. lOfr I /g waist. Square back to 10 by line drawn from a point below L through 9 and square down from 1 by same. 1 1 from J is Yl inch always. Square down from 1 0, guiding by point 1 I . 12 is at the junction of the lines squared down from 10 and drawn from 6 toward 8. 1 3 from Q ic the same distance as between Q and 8. 14 from 10 is the same distance as between 10 and 12. Draw a line from 1 4 to 13 and shape as represented. 1 5 from 6 is Yl inch always. Draw a line from 1 5 to 12. Cut out the back and place point A at point Q with the line A-O on the line squared back from Q by point S. Mark around same and shape the shoul- der slightly at the armseye. Shape the neck gorge to 3 and the armseye to M. Draw a line from a point at the neck gorge where back and fore part meet (called the shoulder point) through 7. 16 from the line 9-13 is 2Yl inches, or Yl the amount desired for lapover. Square forward to 1 6 and back, guiding by line 9-13. Space the buttonholes on line 9-13 and square for- ward and back from same by line 9-1 3. 17 from the line 9-13 is 1 inch or Yl the amount de- sired for lapover. Draw a line from 1 6 to 17 and shape. The buttons are the same distance from the line 9-13 as the line 16-17 is distant from same. Draw a line up from L, guiding by point I. 1 8 is the same distance from L as between L and 3. 19 is the junction of the lines squared down from 2 and shaped to 3. 20 from 1 9 is Yl inch less than the distance as between 18 and 3. Draw a line through 20 to connect with the line 2-19 as represented. 2 I from the shoulder point is V2 inch less than the dis- tance between the same point and Q. Square for- ward and back from 21, guiding by the crease line. Draw a line Ys, inch from 2 1 to connect with the neck gorge for collar stand. Shape the collar and lapel. Establish the pockets. Cut the pocket opening from the side seam of fore part and fold so that line 10-12 is on line 10-14, which will cause the pocket opening to spread. For material that requires seaming make the collar stand Yl inch wider as represented by the dot and dash line ending in a spear point. Streiff's System 17 Diagram I 18 Streiff's System DIAGRAMS J AND K. THE TROUSERS. The Measures: Outside length 42 Inside length 32 Waist 33 Seat 41 Knee 20 Bottom 16 NOTE: To obtain sufficient ease add to seat meas- ure from I to 3 inches according to the amount of ease desired. For this diagram 2 inches have been added to the seat measure. DIAGRAM J. THE FORE PART. TO DRAFT. A is the point from which square. B from A is the outside length. C from B is the inside length. D from C is 2 inches less than Yl of inside length. Square forward from C, D and B. For convenience use Yl °f seat measure for all di- visional not otherwise specified, which for this dia- gram is 20Yl inches. E from C is Yl inch always. F from E is I 3. Square up and down from F. G from E is Yl- Square up from G. H from E is I 24. I from G is I 24. J from G is '/g. K from G is [/g- Square back from K. L is the junction of the lines squared up from F and forward from A. M from L is '/8 waist. Draw a line from M to C and square forward by same from M. N from L is !/g waist. O is the junction of the lines squared forward from A and up from G P is the same distance from N as between O and N. Draw a line from M to P and square down by same through N. Q is the junction of the lines squared down by M-P and forward by M-C. Draw lines from Q to G and I. R is at the intersection of the lines squared down from F and forward from D. S from R is Ya knee. T from R is Ya knee. U is the junction of the line squared down from F and forward from B. V from U is Ya bottom. W from U is Ya bottom. Draw lines from H to 1 and from T to W. From J to S and from S to V. Shape to H as represented. X from J is the same distance as between the lines drawn from Q to G and I at point K. Shape to J and X and down from X as represented. DIAGRAM K. THE BACK PART. Extend the lines T-S and W-V. Circle from M, pivoting at H and from H pivoting at T and from J using S as a pivot. 1 from V is Yl inch. 2 from W is Yl inch. 3 from S is Yl inch. 4 from T is Yl inch. 5 from J is I 12. 6 from H is I 12. 7 from O is I 12. Draw a line through 7 to G. 8 from 7 is I 12 waist. 9 from 7 is Ya waist. Draw a line through 9 to F. 1 from 9 is Ya inch for each inch the waist is less than the seat. 2 inches for this diagram. I 1 from I is I inch always. Draw a line from II to 6. Draw a line from 1 I toward 8. 12 is the junction of the line drawn through 9 to F and from I I toward 8. Square forward from 12, guid- ing by line 9-F. 1 3 from I 2 is the same distance as between 9 and I 0. 1 4 from I 3 is Yl inch. Draw a line through 1 4 to connect with the line 9-F midway between the two points. Draw a line through 1 3 to 8. Shape from 8 to a point % inch below 5. reducing at point 7 as rep- resented. Shape from 5 to 3 So I as represented. Shape from II to 6 to 4 and 2 as represented. The notch below 6 is the same distance from I 1 as between H and M. StreifFs System 19 Diagram K Diagram J 20 StreifFs System DIAGRAM L. TROUSERS, CORPULENT FORM. The Measun ■.- : Outside length 41 Inside length 29 Waist 47 Seat 49 Knee 23 Bottom 17 Note: To obtain sufficient ease add to seat meas- ure from 2 to 4 inches according to the amount of ease desired. For this diagram 3 inches have been added ao seat measure. THE FORE PART. TO DRAFT. A is the point from which square. B from A is the outside length. C from B is the inside length. D from C is 2 inches less than Yl of inside length. Square lorward from C, D, and B. For convenience use Yl of seat measure for all di- visional not otherwise specified, which for this dia- gram is 24 Yi inches. E from C is Yi inch always. F from E is 1 3. Square up and down from F. G from E is Yl- Square up from G. H from E is 1 24. I from G is I 24. J frcm G is ' k. K frcm G is ' #. Square back from K. L is the junction of the lines squared up from F and forward from A. M from L is ' h waist. Draw a line from M to C and square forward by same from M. N from L is ' s waist. O is the junction of the lines squared forward from A and up from G. P is the same distance from N as between O and N. Draw a line from M to P and square down by sam.' through N. Q is the junction of the lines squared down by M-P and forward by M-C. Draw lines from Q to G and I. R is at the intersection of the lines squared down from F and forward from D. S from R is Ya knee. T from R is Yi knee. U is the junction of the lines squared down from F and forward from B. V from U is Yt bottom. W from U is '/4 bottom. Draw lines from H to T and from T to W. From J to S and from S to V. Shape to H as represented. X from J is the same distance as between the lines drawn from Q to G and I at point K. Shape from N to J and X and down from X as represented. THE BACK PART. Extend the lines T-S and W-V. Circle from M, pivoting at H, and from H pivoting at T, and from J using S as a pivot. 1 from V is Yl inch. 2 from W is Yl inch. 3 frcm S is Yl ' ncn - 4 from T is Yl inch. 5 from J is I 12. 6 from His 1 12. 7 from O is I 12. 8 from 7 is I 12 waist. 9 from 7 is Y-i waist. Draw a line through 9 to F. 1 from 9 is Ya >ncb for each inch the waist is less than the seat, Yl inch for this diagram. I I from 10 is I inch always. Draw a line from 11 to 6. Draw a line from I 1 toward 8. 12 is the junction of the line drawn through 9 to F and from I I toward 8. Square forward from 1 2, guid- ing by line 9-F. 1 3 from 1 2 is the same distance as between 9 and 1 0. Note: If less than Yl i° c h is the difference as be- tween 9 and 1 the same should be reduced from point I I and the cutout omitted. Draw a line through I 3 to 8. Shape from 8 to a point 3 /g inch below 5, reducing at point 7 as rep- resented. Shape from 5 to 3 to 1 as represented. Shape from II to 6 to 4 and 2 as represented. The notch below 6 is the same distance from 1 I as between H and M. Draw a line through 7 to G Streiff's System 21 Diagram L 22 StreifFs System DIAGRAM M. SINGLE-BREASTED OVERCOAT. I he Measures: Sleeve under arm 18 Shoulder balance 29'/2 Attitude 25|/2 Natural waist 17 Length 42 Breast 43 Waist • 38 Seat 44 NOTE: The shoulder and attitude measures have been increased 2Yl inches each and the breast, waist and seat measures 5 inches each as taken over the vest. TO DRAFT. A is the point from which square. B from A is the natural waist. C from A is the length. D from A is I 3 shoulder balance. E from D is 1 48 shoulder balance. Square forward from E, B and C. F from B is 1 16 attitude. G from F is '/4 inch for each inch the waist is less than the breast, I '/4 inches for this diagram. H from G is Yl waist. I from H is 2 inches. J from I is I '/? inches, or Yl tne amount desired for lapover. Square down from J. K from E is Yl breast. L from K is 2 inches. M Irom L is 1 Yl inches, or Yl ,ne amount desired for lapover. Draw a line from M to J. N from E is Yl attitude plus 1 inch for making, I 3% inches for this diagram. Square up and down from N. O from E is 14 of the distance as between E and N. P from O is the same distance as between E and N. Square up from P, guiding by point O. Q from P is Yl attitude plus 1 inch for making, 13*4 inches for this diagram. R from E is the same distance as between E and A plus I inch (or plus the amount added to Yl atti- tude as from E to N). S from R is the same distance as between R and P. Square back from Q, guiding by point S. Square forward from Q. For all divisional not otherwise specified use Yl of attitude plus 1 inch always, which for this diagram is 1 3?4 inches. T from A is Ya- Square up from T. U from T is 1 24. V from Eis I 12. W from V is Yl- Square up from W. X from W is '/8- Square forward from X. Y from W is I 3. Z from Y is 1 6. Square forward from Z. 1 from Z is 1 24. Draw a line from T to 1 and shape the top and armscye of back as represented. 2 from N is I 12. 3 from Q is I 6. Draw a line from 3 to L. 4 from 3 is Yl- Square to 4, guiding by line P-Q. 5 from W is Yl °f the distance as between B and F. Square down from 5. 6 is at the intersection of the lines squared down from 5 and forward from B. 7 from 6 is the same distance as between B and G. 8 from 7 is Y-i inch for each inch the seat is larger than the waist, 1 Yl inches for this diagram. Square down from 8. 9 from 8 is Yl natural waist. Square back from 9. 1 from 9 is 1 24 seat. Draw a line from 8 through 10. 1 1 from 8 is the same distance as between B and C. Square forward from 1 I . 12 is the junction of the lines squared forward from 1 I and down from N. Square forward from 12. I 3 from 6 is the same distance as between B and F. I 4 is at the junction of the lines squared down from 5 and forward from C. 15 from II is I Yl inches. Note: The amount can be increased or decreased as desired. Draw a line from 8 to 15. Draw a line from I 3 to a point where the line 9-10 and 8-15 intersect. 16 from 14 is the same, distance as between I I and 15. Draw a line from 6 to 16. Shape the side seam of back from a point opposite X to 6 and of the fore part to a point '/4 inch back from I 3 as represented. Shape the center seam of back, reducing about Y% inch at B as represented. Shape the bottom of fore part. I 7 from N is 2 3 sleeve under arm and is center of pocket. Draw the pocket opening through I 7 to parallel the bottom of fore part and make 6' 4 inches in width, more or less, as desired. The breast pocket is I inch from N. Cut out the back and place point A at point Q with the line A-O on the line squared back from Q by point S. Mark around same and shape the shoulder, reducing Yl '"ch at tthe armscye. Shape the neck gorge through 4 and the armscye as represented. Establish the buttonholes. Draw a crease line from a point I ' 4 inches from the neck gorge to the upper buttonhole. Draw a cutout ' 4 inch from 4. Shape the lapel and Iront. If desired an amount equal or less than the distance as between F and G can be taken out as the dot and dash lines indicate. Streiffs System 23 Diagram M 24 StreifFs System DIAGRAM N. D. B. OVERCOAT. The Measures: Sleeve under arm 18 Shoulder balance 30 Attitude 26 Natural waist 17 Length 44 Breast 44 Waist 39 Seat 45 NOTE: The shoulder and attitude measures have been increased 3 inches each and the breast, waist and seat measures 6 inches each as taken over the vest. TO DRAFT. A is the point from which square. B from A is the natural waist. C from A is the length. D from A is I 3 shoulder balance. E from D is 1 48 shoulder balance. Square forward from E, B and C. F from B is 1 16 attitude. G from F is '4 inch for each inch the waist is less than the breast. 1 ' 4 inches for this diagram. H from G is Yl waist. I from H is 2 inches. J from I is 3 inches, or Yl the amount desired for lap- over. Square down from J. K. 1 1 om E is Yl breast. L from K. is 2 inches. M from L is 3 inches, or Yl 'he amount desired for lapover. Draw a line from M to J. N from E is Yl attitude plus 1 inch for making, 1 4 inches for this diagram. Square up and down from N. O from E is '/4 of the distance as between E and N. P from O is the same distance as between E and N. Square up from P, guiding by point O. Q from P is Yl attitude plus I inch for making, 1 4 inches for this diagram. R from E is the same distance as between E and A plus 1 inch (or plus the amount added to Yl atti- tude as from E to N). S from R is the same distance as between R and P. Square back from Q, guiding by point S. Square forward from Q. For all divisional not otherwise specified use Yl of attitude plus I inch always, which for this diagram is 1 4 inches. T from A is ' 4. Square up from T. U from T is I 24. V from Eis I 12. W from V is Yl- Square up from W. X from W is 1 12. Square forward from X. Y from W is I 3. Z from Y is I 6. Square forward from Z. 1 from Z is I 24. Draw a line from T to 1 and shape the top and armscye of back as represented. 2 fromN is 1 12. 3 from Q is 1 6. Draw a line from 3 to L. 4 from 3 is Yl- Square to 4, guiding by line P-Q. 5 from X is 1 12. Square down from 5. 6 is at the intersection of the lines squared down from 5 and forward from B. 7 from 6 is the same distance as between B and G. 8 from 7 is I4 inch for each inch the seat is larger than the waist, 1 Yl inches for this diagram. Square down from 8. 9 from 8 is Yl natural waist. Square back from 9. 10 from 9 is 1 24 seat. Draw a line from 8 through 10. 1 I from 8 is the same distance as between B and C. Square forward from I I . 12 is the junction of the lines squared forward from I I and down from N. Square forward from 12. I 3 from II is \Yl inches. Note: The amount can be increased or decreased as desired. I 4 is at the junction of the lines squared forward from C and down from 5. I 5 from I 4 is the same distance as between I I and I 3. Draw lines from 6 to I 3 and 6 to 15. Shape the bottom of fore part. I 6 from N is 2 3 of sleeve under arm and is center of pocket. Draw the pocket opening through 16 \~> parallel the bottom of fore part and make 7 inches in width, more or less, as desired. Cut out the back and place point A at point Q with the line A-O on the line squared back from Q by point S. Mark around same and shape the shoulder, reducing Yl inch at the armscye. Shape the neck gorge through 4 and the armscye as represented. Establish the buttonholes. Draw a crease line from a point I '4 inches from the neckgorge to the upper buttonhole. Draw a cutout '4 inch from 4 as represented. Shape the lapel and front. The buttons are 6 inches from the edge or double the distance as between L and M, I and J. Streiff's System 25 J I H • m © B G F 26 StreifFs System DIAGRAM O. SINGLE-BREASTED CUTAWAY FROCK. The Measures: Shoulder balance 28 At'itude 2h Natural waist 17 Fashionable waist I &Yl Length 37 Breast 40 Waist 35 Seat 41 NOTE: The shoulder balance and attitude measures have been increased I inch each and the breast, waist and seat measures 2 inches each as taken aver the vest. (See note to diagram C for explanation.) TO DRAFT. A is the point from which square. B from A is the natural waist. C from A is Yl inch always. D from C is I 3 shoulder balance. E from D is I 48 shoulder balance. Square forward from E and B. F from B is I 16 attitude. G from F is J4 inch for each inch the waist is less than the breast. I J/4 inches for this diagram. H from G is Yl waist. I from H is 1Yl inches. Square down from I. J from I is Y+ inch, or Yl the amount desired for lapover. K from E is Yl breast. L from K. is 2Yl inches. M from L is ^4 inch, or Yl the amount desired fcr lap- over. Draw a line from M to J. N from E is Yl attitude plus 1 Yl inches for making. I 3'/2 inches for this diagram. Square up and down from N. O from E is '/» of the distance as between E and N. P from O is the same distance as between E and N. Square up from P, guiding by point O. Q from P is Yl attitude plus I inch for making, I 3 inches for this diagram. R from E is the same distance as between E and C plus I Yl inches (or plus the amount added to J 2 attitude as from E to N). S from R is the same distance as between R and P. Square back from Q, guiding by point S. Square forward from Q. For all divisional not otherwise specified use Yl of attitude plus 1 inch always, which for this diagram is 1 3 inches. T from A is '4. Square up from 1 . U from T is 1 24. V from E is 1 12. W from V is J/2. Square up from W. X from W is J/2 inch always. Square forward from X. Y from X is 1 3. Z from \ is I 6. Square forward from Z. 1 from Z is 1 24. Draw a line from T to I and shape the top and armscye of back as represented. 2 frcm Y is I 24. Square forward from 2. 3 from X is I 6. 4 from N is I 12. 5 from Q is H 16. Draw a line from 5 to L. 6 from 5 is Yl- Square to 6, guiding by line P-Q. 7 from 2 is Yl inch always. 8 is half way between E and W. 9 from B is Yl inch always. 1 from 9 is I 6. Shape from 2 through 8 to 10. Square down from 10. 1 I from A is the fashionable waist. Square forward and back from 1 I . 12 from I I is ?4 inch, more or less, as desired. Square down from I 2. 1 3 from A is the length. Square forward from I 3. 14 from 10 is the same as between B and F. Square down from I 4. 15 from I 4 is Yl natural waist. Square back from 15. 1 6 from 15 is 1 24 seat. Draw a line from 14 through 1 6 and shape from 7 to 1 4 as represented. I 7 from I 4 is I 3. 1 8 from I 7 is Yl inch 'e ss lnan tne distance as be- tween F and G. The half inch deducted use for a cutout at the intersection of the lines squared down from N and forward from B as represented. Shape from a point J 4 inch back from 3 through I 7 and I 8. Shape from 7 to a point Yl inch back from 3 as represented. 1 9 is at the intersection of the lines squared forward from I I and drawn from 1 4 through I 6. 20 and 21 are established at the junction of the line squared forward from I I with the lines shaped through 1 / and I 8. 22 from I is ' n waist. Draw a line from 21 to 22. 23 from 19 is V* inch always. Square forward from 23 and draw a line from 23 to 20. 24 from 23 is Yl inch less than the bottom width of sidebody as from 23 to 20. Draw a line forward from 24 to parallel the line 21-22. 25 from 23 is J/4 inch more than the distance between 12 and 13. Square forward and back from 25, guiding by line 16-25. 26 is the junction of the lines squared forward from 25 and down from N. 27 from 16 is J/4 inch for each inch the seat is larger than the waist, 1 Yl inches for this diagram. 28 from 25 is the same distance as between 16 and 27. Draw lines from 23 to 27 and from 27 to 28. Shape at 27 as represented. Cut out the back and place point A at point Q with the line A-O on the line squared back from Q by point S. Mark around same and shape the shoulder reducing Yl inch at the armscye. Shape the ne< kgorge through 6 and the armscye to 3 as represented. Establish the buttonholes. Draw a crease line from a point 1 ' 4 inches from the neckgorge to the upper buttonhole. Draw a cutout '4 inch from 6. Shape the lapel and front. 29 from 24 is the same distance as between 2 I and the front of fore part back of 22. Shape the skirt from 29 to 28. The cutout at the intersecting lines between 18 and H is squared by line 21-22. Streiff s System 27 Diagram O 28 StreifFs System DIAGRAM P.-DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK. The Measures: Shoulder balance 28 Attilude 24 Natural waist 17 Fashionable waist l8'/2 Length 41 Breast 40 Waist 35 Seat 41 NOTE: The shoulder balance and attitude measures have been increased 1 inch each and the breast, wa.st and seat measures 2 inches each as taken over the vest. (See note to diagram C.) TO DRAFT. A is the point from which square. B from A is the natural waist. C from A is yi inch always. D from C is I 3 shoulder balance. E from D is I 48 shoulder balance. Square forward from E and B. F from B is I 16 attitude. G from F is '/» inch for each inch the waist is less than the breast. 1 Ya inches for this diagram. H from G is Yl waist. I from H is 2Yl inches. Square down from I. J from 1 is 3 inches, or Yl the amount desired for lapover. K from E is |/2 breast. L from K is 2Yl inches. Draw a line through L and I. M from L is 4 inches, or Yl tne amount desired for lapover. Draw a line from M through J. N from E is Yl attitude plus 1 Yl inches for making, 1 3/2 inches for this diagram. Square up and down from N. O from E is '/4 of the distance as between E and N. P from O is the same distance as between E and N. Square up from P, guiding by point O. Q from P is Yl attitude plus 1 inch for making, I 3 inches for this diagram. R from E is the same distance as between E and C plus I Yl inches (or plus the amount added to Yl attitude as from E to N). S from R is the same distance as be'ween R and P. Square back from Q, guiding by point S. Square forward from Q. For all divisionals not otherwise specified use Yl of attitude plus 1 inch always, which for this diagram is 1 3 inches. T from A is '4. Square up from T. U from T is I 24. V from E is 1 12. W from V is Yl- Square up from W. X from W is Yl inch always. Square forward from X. Y from X is 1 3. Z from Y is I 6. Square forward from Z. 1 from Z is I 24. Draw a line from 1 to I and shape the top and armscye of back as represented. 2 from Y is 1 24. Square forward frcm 2. 3 from X is 1 6. 4 from N is 1 12. 5 from Q is I 6. Draw a line from 5 to L. 6 from 5 is Yl- Square to 6, guiding by line P-Q. 7 from 2 is Yl inch always. 8 is half way between E and W, 9 from B is Yl inch always. 10 from 9 is I 6. Shape from 2 through 8 to 1 Square down from 10. 1 1 from A is the fashionable waist. Square and back from 1 1 . '4 inch, more or less as desirec forward Square I 2 from I 1 is down from I 2. 1 3 from A is the length. Square forward from 1 3. 1 4 from 1 is the same as between B and F. Square down from 1 4. 15 frcm 14 is Yl natural waist. Square back from 15. 16 from I 5 is 1 24 seat. Draw a line from 14 through I 6 and shape from 7 to I 4 as represented. 1 7 from I 4 is 1 3. 1 8 from 1 7 is Yl inch less than the distance as between F and G. The half inch deducted use for a cutout at the intersection of the lines squared down from N and forward from B as represented. Shape from a point '74 inch back from 3 through 1 7 7 to a point Yl inch back and 18. Shape from from 3 as represented. 1 9 is at the intersection of the lines squared forward from 1 I and drawn from 14 through 16. 20 and 2 1 are established at the junction of the line squared forward from 1 1 with the lines shaped through I 7 and I 8. 22 from I is '/a waist. Draw a line frcm 21 to 22. 23 from 19 is Y+ inch always. Square forward from 23 and draw a line from 23 to 20. 24 from 23 is Yl inch less than the bottom width of sidebody as from 23 to 20. Draw a line forward from 24 to parallel the line 21-22. 25 from 23 is '4 inch more than the distance between 12 and 13. Square forward and back from 25, guiding by line 16-25. 26 is the junction of the lines squared forward from 25 and down from N. Square forward from 26. Snap? the bottom of skirt. 27 from 16 is '4 inch for each inch the seat is larger than the waist, 1 Yl inches for this diagram. 28 from 25 is the same distance as between 16 and 27. Draw lines from 23 to 27 and from 27 to 28. Shape at 27 as represented. Cut out the back and place point A at point Q with the line A-O on the line squared back from Q by point S. Mark around same and shape the shoulder, reducing Yl inch at the armscye. Shape the neckgorge to 6 and the armscye to 3 as represented. Shape the bottom of fore part at 22 to run with the waist line and the skirt likewise. From I to the bottom of rever is the same distance as between I and the bottom of fore part. Square for- ward, guiding by line I-L. Establish the buttonholes and draw a crease line from a point 1 I/4 inches from the neckgorge to the upper buttonhole. 29 from L is the same distance as between L and 6. Shape the lapel. 30 from 24 is Yl inch less than the bottom width of fore part, including rever. Square down from 30, guiding by the waist line. The cutout at the intersecting lines between 18 and H is squared by line 21-22. Streiffs System Diagram P 30 StreifFs System DIAGRAM Q— DRESS COAT The Measures: Shoulder balance 28 Altitude 24 Natural waist 1 ' Fashionable waist I &Yl Length 39 Breast 40 Waist 35 Seat 41 NOTE: The shoulder balance and attitude measures have been increased I inch each and the breast, waist and seat measures 2 inches each as taken over the vest. (See note to diagiam C.) TO DRAFT A is the point from which square. B from A is the natural waist. C from A is Yl inch always. D from C is I 3 shoulder balance. E from D is I 48 shoulder balance. Square forward from E and B. F from B is 116 attitude. G from F is '/i inch for each inch the waist is less than the breast. I Ya inches for this diagram. H from G is Yl waist. I from H is 2Yl inches. Square down from I. J from I is 1 /6 waist. K. Irom E is Yl breast. L from K is 2 V 2 inches. M from L is 1 Yl inches more or less as desired. N from E is Yl attitude plus I Yl inches for making. 1 3!/? inches for this diagiam. Square up and down from N. O from E is Ya of t ne distance as between E and N. P from O is the same distance as between E ar.d N. Square up from P, guiding by point O. Q from P is Yl attitude plus 1 inch for making. I 3 inches for this diagram. R from E is the same distance as between E and C plus I Yl inches (or plus the amount added to Yl attitude as from E to N). S from R is the same distance as between R and P. Square back from Q, guiding by point S. Square forward from Q. For all divisional not otherwise specified use Yl of attitude plus I inch always, which for this diagram is 1 3 inches. T from A is ' 4. Square up from T. U from T is I 24. V from E is I 12. W from V is ' >. Square up from \V. X from W is Yl inch always. Square forward from X. Y from X is I 3. Z from Y is 1 6. Square forward from 7. 1 from Z is 1 24. Draw a line from T to 1 and shape the top and armscye of back as represented. 2 from Y is I 24. Square forward from 2. 3 from X is 1 6. 4 from N is I 12. 5 from Q is 1 6. Draw a line from 5 to L. 6 from 5 is Yl- Square to 6, guiding by line P-Q. 7 from 2 is Yl inch always. 8 is half way between E and W. 9 from B is Yl inch always. 1 from 9 is I 6. Shape from 2 through 8 to 10. Square forward and Square 13. Square Square down from 10. 1 1 from A is the fashionable waist. back from 1 1 . 12 trom II is Vi inch, more or less as desired. down from I 2. I 3 from A is the length. Square forward from I 3. 14 from 10 i.« the same as between B and F. down from I 4. 15 from I 4 is \ 1 natural waist. Square back from 15. 16 from 1 5 is 1 24 seat. Draw a line from 14 through 1 6 and shape from 7 to I 4 as represented. 17 from 1 4 is 1 3. 1 8 from I 7 is Yl inch less than the distance as between F and G. The half inch deducted use for a cutout at the intersection of the lines squared down from N and forward from B as represented. Shape from a point Ya inch back from 3 through 1 7 and I 8. Shape from 7 to a point Yl ' ncn hack from 3 as represented. 19 is at the intersection of the lines squared forward from 1 I and drawn from 1 4 through I 6. 20 and 21 are established at the junction of the line squared for- ward from 1 I with the lines shaped through 1 7 and 18. 22 from I is 1 6 waist. Draw a line from 21 to 22. 23 from 19 is 3 -4 inch always. Square forward from 23 and draw a line from 23 to 20. 24 from 23 is Yl inch less than the bottom width of side- body as from 23 to 20. Draw a line forward from 24 to parallel the line 21-22. 25 from 23 is Ya inch more than the distance between 12 and 13. Square forward and back from 25, guid.ng by line 16-25. 26 from 16 is '4 inch for each inch the seat is larger than the waist. 1 Yl inches for this diagram. 27 from 25 is the same as from 16 to 26. Draw lines from 23 to 26 and from 26 to 27. Shape at 26 as represented. 28 from 27 is the same distance as between I and J. Draw a line downward from J, guiding by point 28. 29 from 24 is the same distance as between 2 1 and the line drawn from J by 28. Draw a line from 29 to 28 and shape the front and bottom of skirl. Establish the buttonholes. Shape the front from the upper buttonhole, reducing about Yl inch at 22. 30 is I Yl inches from the line 21-22. Draw a line back from 30 to parallel the line 21-22. Shape the bot- tom of fore part and top of skirt. Cut out tie back and place point A at point Q with the line A-O on the line squared back from Q by point S. Mark around same and shape the shoulder, reducing Yl inch at the armscye. 31 from 6 is I 12. Shape the neckgorge to 31 and square down from 31 by the line just shaped. Shape the armscye to 3 as represented. Draw a line up from L, guiding by point I. 32 from L is the same distance as between 3 I and L. 33 from 31 is (2 inch less than the distance between 31 ar.d 32. Draw a line from 33 to connect with the line squared down from 3 I at the breast line. Draw a crease line from a point I ! ^ inches from the neck- gorge to the upper buttonhole. Shape the lapel. The cutout at the intersectng lines between 18 and J is squared by the shaped line on bottom of fore part, StreifFs System 31 Diagram Q 32 StreifPs System DIAGRAM R. LADIES' COAT. The Measures: Shoulder balance 25 Attitude 22 Natural waist ' -> Length 26 Breast 36 Bust 39 Waist 27 Seat 42 NOTE: The shoulder balance and attitude measures have been increased I inch each and the breast, bust, waist and seat measures 2 inches each as taken over the form. (See diagram C.) For the following diagram no seams have been allowed and must be added when cut- ting the cloth. TO DRAFT. A is the point from which square. B from A is the natural waist. C from B is Yl natural waist. D from A is the length. E from A is 1 3 shoulder balance. F from E is I 48 shoulder balance. Square forward from F, B, C and D. G from B is 1 16 attitude. H from G is % inch for each inch the waist is less than the breast, 2 '4 inches for this diagram. I from H is Yl waist. J from I is the amount the bust is more than the breast, 3 inches for this diagram. K from J is I inch. L from K. is lx 2 inch or Yl the amount desired for lap- over. M from F is Yl breast. N from M is 1 inch. O from N is Yl °f 'he distance as between I and J. P from O is the same distance as between K and L. Draw a line from P through L. Q from F is Yl attitude. Square up and down from Q. R from F is Yi, of the distance as between F and Q. S from R is the same distance as between F and Q. Square up from S, guiding by point R. T from S is Yl attitude, I 1 inches for this diagram. U from F is the same distance as between F and A. V from U is the same distance as between U and S. Square back from T, guiding by point V. Square forward from T. For all divisional not otherwise specified use Yl °f attitude, which for this diagram is 1 1 inches. W from A is %. Square up from W. X from W is 1 24. Y from F is 1 12. Z from Y is Yl- Square up from Z. 1 from Z is I 3. 2 from I is ' 4. Square forward from 2. 3 from 2 is 1 24. Draw a line from W to 3 and shape the top and armscye of back as represented. 4 from 3 is I 6. 5 from Q is 1 12. 6 from T is 1 6. Draw a line from 6 to N. 7 from 6 is Yl- Square to 7, guiding by line S-T. 8 is half way between Z and F. 9 from B is 1 4. Shape from 4 through 8 to 9. 1 from 9 is the same distance as between B and G. 1 I from 10 is !4. 1 2 from 1 I is the same distance as between G and H. Square down from 9, 10, II and 12, establishing 13 14 15 and 1 6 at the junction of the lines so squared with the line squared forward from C. 1 7 is half way between I I and 12. Square up from 1 7. 1 8 is the junction of the line squared up from 17 with the line shaped at armscye. Draw lines from 1 8 to II and 12. 19 from 14 is I 24 seat. 20 is half way between I 4 and 19. 21 from 13 is the same distance as between 14 and 20. Draw lines from 9 through 21 and 10 through 20. 22 from 1 6 is '/g inch for each inch the seat is larger than the waist. I V% inches for this diagram. 23 from 15 is the same distance as between 22 and 16. Square down from 22 and 23. Draw lines from II to 23 and from 12 to 22. Shape from I 8 to II and 23 and from 1 8 to 12 and 22 as represented. Shape from a point above 8 to 10. 24 is the junction of the line 10-20 with the line squared forward from D. Square forward from 24, guiding by points 10-19. 25 is the junction of the lines squared forward from 24 and down from Q. Square forward from 25. 26 is the junction of the lines squared down from 22 and forward from 24. 27 is the same distance from 23 as between 22 and 26. Shape from 24 to 27. Shape from 26 as represented. 28 is half way between O and Q. 29 from K is the same distance as between O and 28. Draw a line from 28 through 29. 30 from 29 is the same distance as from I to J. Square down Irom 30. Cut out (he back and place point A at point 1 with the line A-R on the line squared back from T by point V. Mark around same and shape the shoulder, reducing Y% inch at the armscye. Shape the neckgorge through 7 and the armscye as represented. Shape from point 4 on the back to 29. Shape the bust to 30 as represented. 31 is the junction of the lines drawn from 28 through 29 and squared forward from 25. Square back to 31, guiding by line L-P. Establish the buttonholes and draw a crease line from a point I ' 4 inches from the neckgorge to the upper buttonhole. Draw a cutout at 7 as represented. Shape the lapel. StreifFs System 33 34 Streiff's System DIAGRAM S. LADIES' SKIRT. I lie Measures : Waist 25 Seat 42 Length in front 41 Note : The seat measure has been increased 2 inches for extra ease as taken over the form. For the following diagram no seams have been allowed and must be added when cutting the cloth. TO DRAFT. For convenience use Yl °f seat measure for all di- visional not otherwise specified, which for this dia- gram is 2 I inches. A is the point from which square. B from A is the length in front. Square forward from B. C from A is Yl of whole seat. Square down from C. D from C is I 12. E from A is 1 3. Square forward from E. h is the junction of the lines squared down from C and forward from E. Draw a line down through D and F. G is half way between E and F. H from G is I 3. Square up from H. I is the junction of the lines squared up from H and forward from A. J from I is Y% waist. Draw a line through J to G. K from I is ' « waist. Draw a line from K through E. Square back to I. guiding by line J-G. L is the junction of the line J-G and the line squared back to I. Shape at I as represented. Circle from L, pivoting at G. M from L is Yi inch for each inch the waist is less than the seat, 4'/4 inches for this diagram. N from M is Yl °f tne distance as between L and M. O is half way between M and N. Draw a line from O to G and square forward from O by same. Shape slightly from O to G. P from F and Q from D is the same distance as between H and E. R from P and S from Q is the same distance as between N and O. Draw a line through Q to P and through S to R. T is the junction of the line squared forward from O and the line drawn through S to R. Square for- ward from T by line S-R. U is the junction of the line squared forward from T and the line Q-P. Shape from T and U as repre- sented. Shape from N to a point above T and from U as represented. Square forward to B, guiding by line K-E. V is the junction of the line squared forward to B and line K-E. W is the junction of the line squared forward from B and line D-F. X is half way between W and V. Draw a line from G to X and shape at G as represented. Y is the junction of the lines C-F and B-W. Square back to Y, guiding by line D-F. Shape the bottom from V to X and from X reducing at Y as repre- sented. StreifFs System 35 Diagram S jui 6 m