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 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 
 
OUR 
 
 Insect Foes 
 
 How to Deal With. 
 
 PUBLISHED BY THE 
 
 POPULAR GARDENING PUB. CO., 
 
 BUFFALO, N. Y. 
 
p 
 
 OPULAR GARDENING 
 
 and FRUIT GROWING. 
 
 HPHIS is a monthly journal devoted to all branches of practical horticulture, 
 and alike useful to those who garden for profit or for pleasure. In charac- 
 ter it is bright, terse and readable, great pains being taken by its managers to 
 have every article in its columns directly useful and instructive. It is profusely 
 illustrated, in this respect standing unequaled by any other periodical of its 
 class in the world. 
 
 Although this journal is but in its third year, it has by its enterprise ab- 
 sorbed the entire subscription lists and properties, by purchase, of the following 
 papers: Fruit Recorder, Kochester, N. Y. ; American Horticulturist, Detroit, 
 Mich.; Floral World, Chicago, 111.; Garden Review, New York; Ohio Horticul- 
 turist, Warren, Ohio. With the purchase of these, it also has retained in most 
 cases their editors and special contributors, combining all on the present journal, 
 to the making of the largest and most complete paper of its kind ever published 
 in America. Subscription price, $1.00 per year. Specimen copies ten cents 
 each. Address, 
 
 Popular Gardening and Fruit Growing, 
 
 BUFFALO, N. Y. 
 
OUR INSECT FOES; 
 
 HOW TO DEAL WITH. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 ACCORDING to the census of 1880 it is computed 
 that the aggregate losses from injurious insects in 
 the United States equals two hundred millions of dollars 
 a year, while able economic entomologists are not wanting 
 who place the loss at least one-half higher. It is esti- 
 mated that the Apple Worm or Codling Moth alone has 
 in recent years destroyed nearly one-half of the Apple 
 crop of the country, representing to our fruit growers a 
 loss that runs high into millions of dollars yearly. 
 But along with the marked increase of injurious insects in late years, there has 
 happily been increased activity also on the part of cultivators and of the National and 
 State Governments, in devising means and remedies for successfully destroying the 
 former. And with excellent results too, for it is most gratifying to note that at the 
 present time hardly a single formidable insect enemy to the horticulturist exists but 
 that there is also some simple remedy known for its destruction, or at least for greatly 
 lessening the force of its damaging attacks. 
 
 It is for the purpose of bringing before the cultivators of the country at this time a 
 summing up of the most approved methods for dealing with our more prominent insect 
 enemies that the present treatise has been published. 
 
 In its preparation I have been fortunate in receiving valued help from Prof. A. J. 
 Cook, of the Michigan Agricultural College, (Agricultural College P. O., Michigan), a 
 gentleman, whose close study and many experiments in the field of our insect foes, as 
 well as in that of the Honey Bee, has made his name widely famous; and also from 
 
D. B. Wier, of Lacon, HI. Mention is also gratefully made of the works of such eminent 
 entomologists as Prof. J. A. Lintner, of Albany, N.Y., Prof. C.V. Biley, Washington, D. C, 
 and of those of Dr. Harris ; besides of the assistance of other practical cultivators and 
 observers. Together, it is believed that the collection of remedies brought within the 
 following pages, possess such value as will enable every cultivator of trees, plants, and 
 flowers to very successfully cope with the multiple foe. 
 
 In conclusion, however, let the fact be impressed that no insect remedy can prove 
 successful unless it be applied promptly at the proper time, hence it is urged that what- 
 ever is done in the war against this enemy be done early, vigorously, and with all due 
 persistence. 
 
 ELIAS A. LONG, 
 
 BUFFALO, N. Y., February 1, 1887. Editor of Popular Gardening and 
 
 7 Fruit Growing. 
 
 Copyrighted 1888. 'Tfef^ Popular Gardening Pub. £o. 
 
OUR INSECT FOES; 
 
 HOW TO DEAL WITH. 
 
 Alum Water. See Remedy 5. 
 
 Ants. (Formica). These very common 
 insects are sometimes troublesome not only 
 from their manner of throwing up hills, but 
 also through being destructive to vegetation. 
 
 Remedy 1. Trapping with Sunken Bottle in 
 Hills. The advantage of this course is that no 
 injury can possibly result to the roots of adja- 
 cent plants, as is the case when scalding remedies 
 are applied. The mouth of the bottle should be 
 even with the surface of the hill, and it should 
 be partly filled with sweetened water. 
 
 Bern. 2. Trapping 
 with Sponge. Obtain 
 pieces of coarse sponge. 
 Dip them in sweetened 
 water and place on old 
 dishes where the Ants 
 abound. When they are 
 black with Ants throw 
 them into boiling water, 
 afterwards washing 
 them out and renewing 
 the process till the col- 
 ony is destroyed. 
 
 Rem. 3. Fresh Bones. 
 By laying these where Ants are troublesome 
 they will quickly gather on them. When these 
 are black dip in scalding water, repeating the 
 operation. 
 
 Rem. 4. Molasses and Poison. Place a dish con- 
 taining some molasses in which a small quan- 
 tity of arsenical poison or cyanide of potassium 
 has been mixed; or the same may be spread on 
 trees, fences, leaves, and other frequented places. 
 
 Rem. 5. Destroying in Nest. Apply boiling 
 water, hot alum water (prepared by dissolving 
 one pound of common alum in three gallons of 
 rain water, and heating) or soluble phenyle 
 water, (prepared by dissolving three spoonfuls of 
 fluid to four gallons of water) freely to the nest. 
 
 Aphis or Plant Lice. It is probable that 
 every kind of tree, shrub, flowering plant 
 and herb has some species of louse of the 
 family of Aphididse infesting it. The com- 
 mon Green, Black and Blue Lice which 
 trouble our house, greenhouse and garden 
 
 Fig. 2. Aphis or Plant Louse Greatly enlarged; an Ant " milking " the same. 
 
 plants, those of similar colors infesting the 
 Apple, Cherry and other fruit trees, besides 
 numerous ornamental trees and shrubs, af- 
 ford familiar examples. The past year or 
 two has found the kinds which trouble fruit 
 trees, and especially the Apple, unusually 
 prevalent in many sections, causing on the 
 whole immense damage. 
 
4 
 
 OUR INSECT FOES; 
 
 Rem. 6. Kerosene Emulsion. It is fully proven 
 that the kerosene soap and mixture when 
 rightly applied will surely kill plant lice. I (Pro- 
 fessor Cook) use one quart of soft soap, one pint 
 of kerosene oil, and two quarts of water. These 
 are mixed and stirred until a permanent union 
 is formed. One quarter pound of whale oil soap 
 may replace the soft soap. A good way to mix 
 them is to use a good force pump, and force the 
 liquid back into the vessel containing it. This 
 
 Fig. 3. The Hose in the 
 tree top. Applying the 
 kerosene emulsion or 
 other poisons. 
 
 stirs the mixture so 
 violently that a per- 
 manent mixture is soon 
 formed. This liquid is 
 then diluted with four 
 gallons of water. To 
 use this it should be ap- 
 plied by the use of a 
 good spray nozzle, and 
 powerful force pump, 
 which I have found the 
 best for all purposes. 
 This throws a fine spray with great force, 
 and thus is very sure to touch all lice, and 
 yet is so dilute that the plants are not injured, 
 and the fine spray insures economy as well as 
 safety. Of course it goes without saying that 
 the leaves, especially when they roll up, as 
 they often do in such plants as the Snowball, 
 if attacked by the lice, are a serious obstacle 
 in the way of making this application. The 
 liquid must touch every louse. This is more 
 likely when applied with great force as sug- 
 gested above. Yet even then, though every 
 pains be taken, the lice will not all be reached. 
 The past spring we found that the young lice on 
 the buds, and even the eggs, just before hatch- 
 ing, were alike susceptible to this treatment. At 
 this time there was no foliage to interfere, and 
 so it was not difficult to make very thorough 
 work. I recommend, especially to nurserymen, 
 that they learn to detect the little dark eggs 
 which are usually spread thickly in and about 
 
 the buds, where they were placed by the mother 
 louse the previous fall, and if they are found 
 very common, that he apply the kerosene mix- 
 ture early, just as the buds are swelling prepara- 
 tory to bursting. 
 
 Rem. 7. Coal Tar Fumes. Mr. Crane, a success- 
 ful fruit grower of Lockport, N. Y., states that he 
 has found the burning of a wad of rags attached 
 to a pole and coated with coal tar, a safe and 
 complete remedy for the Aphis. Plum trees' that 
 were black with this pest were, by a few applica- 
 tions, perfectly cleaned. The wad should be 
 burned underneath and not too near the foliage. 
 
 Rem. 8. Tobacco Water, Dust, etc. For use 
 on a small scale as about Roses, Geraniums, 
 Salvias, Verbenas, Chrysanthemums, flowering 
 shrubs, etc., the old remedy of whale oil soap and 
 tobacco water, or the more recent and more con- 
 venient one of sprinkling the affected parts 
 with tobacco dust, are effective. 
 
 Rem. 9. Fumigation with Tobacco. For dealing 
 with this pest in the greenhouse fumigation with 
 tobacco is almost universally practiced. This 
 consists in burning dampened tobacco stems 
 from the cigar maker's two or three times a 
 week in all grenhouses 
 during the season, to 
 serve both as a remedy 
 and a preventive. One 
 pound for each five 
 hundred feet of glass 
 will usually suffice. A 
 simple way of using the 
 tobacco is to place the 
 above quantity on a 
 handful of lighted shav- 
 ings, either on the floor 
 or in a f umigator made 
 for the purpose, which 
 will cause a dense 
 smoke. On a cement^ 
 floor the fire needs no f or throwing Liquids. 
 attention, as it quickly 
 
 dies out, but with a wooden one or with wood 
 near by, care will be required to protect it with 
 sheets of metal or otherwise. 
 
 Rem. 10. Nicotyl. In the greenhouse and win- 
 dow garden, as well as under low bushes outdoors, 
 Nicotyl vapor, produced by. steeping tobacco, 
 stems in water and causing the latter to e vapor- 
 
HOW TO DEAL WITH. 
 
 ate, or by simply scattering moistened tobacco 
 stems between the plants, is one of the most sim- 
 ple and complete remedies known for these in- 
 sects. The vaporizer shown in Fig. 21 is a capital 
 thing where special regard to neatness is re- 
 quired in the use of the tobacco liquid, but it is 
 no better than a lamp set under a shallow pan. 
 
 Rem. 11. Para ffl ne Oil. When young Larches, 
 Pines, or other plants are infested, by watering 
 them at intervals of three or four days for about 
 three weeks with diluted paraffine in the propor- 
 tion of a wineglassful to a watering can of 
 water, they may be saved and restored to health. 
 
 Rem. 12. Hot Water. To submerge affected 
 plants or branches in water of a temperature of 
 about 125° or 130° will kill Aphis. 
 
 Rem. 13. Colonizing the Lady-bug. The com- 
 mon Lady-bug (see Fig. 18) (Coccinellida*) is an 
 insectivorous beetle that destroys the Aphis with 
 avidity. By encouraging the presence of this in- 
 sect on house and other plants, the lice may be 
 completely kept down. 
 
 Rem. 14. Promoting Growth. It should perhaps 
 be stated that plant lice, as well as all other insects, 
 are always more troublesome on plants or trees 
 in an enfeebled condition than on others. Any 
 course that tends to promote vigor will be help- 
 ful in withstanding their attacks. 
 
 Apple Worm or Codling Moth. (Carpocap- 
 sa pomonella Linn). For this most injuri- 
 ous insect a very complete remedy is now in 
 use, one easy of application, and which, if 
 
 Fig. 5. Tlie Codling 
 Moth, (perfect in- 
 sect of Apple 
 Worm). 
 
 Fig. 6. The 
 young Apple 
 worm work- 
 ing in tow- 
 ards the core. 
 
 rightly used, will result in saving at least 
 seventy per cent of the Apples commonly 
 lost by its ravages. The remedy is the ar- 
 senical poison found in both of those well 
 known insecticides, Paris Green and Lon- 
 
 don Purple. Referring to the use in detail 
 of these remedies, Professor A. J. Cook 
 gives the following: 
 
 Rem. 15. Liquid Arsenical Poisons— London 
 Purple or Paris Green. The best remedy for the 
 Codling Moth is to use either London Purple or 
 
 Fig. 7. Worm of Codling Moth in the matured Apple. 
 
 Paris Green. The remedy is not only efficient, 
 but is also easy of application, and not expen- 
 sive. I have now tried this thoroughly for six 
 years, and in each and every case have been 
 more than pleased with its excellence. I know 
 of no one who has tried it in vain. The past sea- 
 son has shown that in using Paris Green or Lon- 
 don Purple— the last seems preferable, as it is 
 cheaper, more readily mixed, and very effective 
 —one pound to one hundred (100) gallons of 
 water is quite strong enough. It is best to wet 
 the powder thoroughly and make a paste before 
 putting it into the vessel of water, that it may all 
 mix, and not form lumps, It is best to apply the 
 mixture as soon as the blossoms fall, and again 
 in three weeks, in case of any heavy rain. Usu- 
 ally I have found one thorough application, 
 made early, so effective that I have wondered 
 whether it was best or necessary to make more 
 than one. I do think, however, that it must be 
 early. In May and June the calyx of the Apple is 
 
OUR INSECT FOES; 
 
 up, (see Fig. 6) and so the poison is retained suffi- 
 ciently long to kill most all of the insects. For a 
 few trees we may use a pail, and a hand force 
 pump, always keeping the liquid well stirred. 
 One common pail of liquid will suffice for the 
 largest tree. A teaspoonful of the poison is 
 enough in a pailful of water. For a large orch- 
 ard common barrels should be used, and drawn 
 in a wagon. I prefer to have the barrels stand 
 on end, with a close movable float, with two 
 holes through it, one for the pipe or hose from 
 the pump, and the other for a stirrer. If very 
 large orchards are to be treated a good force 
 pump should be fastened to the barrel. In western 
 New York the handle of the pump is connected 
 with the wagon wheel so that no hand power 
 is required other than to drive the team and 
 manage the pipe which carries the spray. The 
 spray may be caused by a fine perforated nozzle 
 or a cyclone nozzle. The finer it is the less liquid 
 will be required. In treating an orchard the 
 great point is to be thorough. If a still day can 
 be had I would drive on a very fast walk and 
 drive through the orchard twice in each space, 
 first north and south, then east and west, so as to 
 go on all sides of each tree. This makes very 
 thorough work. A stop-cock so arranged as 
 to permit the instant change of water from the 
 hose so that it will flow into the barrel or tank in 
 case of vacancy of trees in the row is often 
 convenient. Hardly any one thing on the farm 
 will pay better than this spraying Apple trees 
 with the arsenites. As to the danger of using, this 
 amounts to nothing provided the spraying is done 
 before the Apples have began to hang down- 
 ward. 
 
 Apple Maggot. This maggot, which most- 
 ly infests fall Apples, but occasionally at- 
 tacks winter fruit, is much to be dreaded. 
 It is now a fruit enemy from New England 
 to Wisconsin. From the fact that it tun- 
 nels Apples through and through and thus 
 utterly ruins the fruit which it attacks, 
 makes it more damaging in some respects 
 than even the Codling Moth. Should it be- 
 come as common as the Codling Moth, and 
 should it attack winter fruit generally, it 
 would indeed be a serious pest. Like the 
 Codling Moth, it causes the fruit to fall to 
 
 the earth. In September and October the 
 insect leaves the Apple and passes into the 
 earth to pupate. 
 
 Rem. 16. Feeding the Fruit. Feed all the 
 affected Apples in early September. An enter- 
 
 Fig.8. Asparagus infested ivith the Asparagus Beetle 
 in its different stages. See Remedies 17 to 19. 
 
 prising Michigan farmer, at my (Professor Cook) 
 suggestion, made full use of this remedy, after 
 suffering seriously for two years. He has ap- 
 parently exterminated the pest. 
 
 Arsenical Poisons. See Rem's. 15, 43, 84, 108. 
 
 Asparagus Beetle. This is becoming very 
 
 troublesome in some parts of the country in 
 
HOW TO DEAL WITH. 
 
 its grub or larva state, not only eating 
 through the stems of the plants, but also de- 
 stroying the leaves and seeds. See Fig. 8. 
 
 Rem. 17. Dusting with air-slacked lime on a 
 quiet morning while the dew is on the plants. 
 
 Rem. 18. Cutting the Stalks. Those infested 
 should be carefully cut out and carried away 
 and burned. 
 
 Rem. 19. Fotvls. 
 on the beetles. 
 
 Employing a flock to feed 
 
 Aster Eoot Louse. See Aphis or Lice. 
 
 Bag or Basket Worm. This species, which 
 proves not only a serious depredator to 
 shade and fruit trees, but especially to the 
 Arbor Vitse in some places, appears to be on 
 
 Fig. 9. Bag Worm. A, full grown larva with bag. b, c, 
 follicle and puparium cut open to show eggs, d, 
 young larva with their conical upright coverings. 
 
 the increase, and should be carefully looked 
 after. During winter their dependent sacks 
 or bags (See Figure 9) may be seen hanging 
 on the twigs of the trees. As early as May 
 of the next season the eggs on the bags 
 hatch into small active larva, which crawl- 
 
 ing on a leaf, at once begins to gnaw it, and 
 construct a portable case or bag in which to 
 live. 
 
 Rem. 20. Hand Picking the Bags. The best 
 method of arresting the depredations of this 
 insect is to collect the cases when they have 
 attained a size to permit of their easy discov- 
 ery, and crush or burn them. This is a very 
 effectual method, for as the female has not the 
 power of flight, being without wings, and never 
 leaves its case even for the deposit of its eggs, a 
 tree which has once been cleared of the bags can 
 only become re-infested from contact of its 
 branches with another infested tree, or from 
 such a proximity to it that the intermediate 
 space of ground could be traversed by caterpil- 
 lars driven to migration for their food. 
 
 Rem. 21. Arsenical Poisons. Undoubtedly 
 either of the arsenical insecticides (which see) 
 applied to their food-plants would destroy the 
 young larvae. 
 
 Bagging Grapes. See Remedy 78. 
 
 Baits of Potatoes, etc. See Remedy 153. 
 
 Bands on Trees. See Remedies 39, 45. 
 
 Bark Lice or Coccus (Coccidae). A common 
 class of insects, varying very much in form 
 and which are injurious to many trees, 
 shrubs, and plants, hardy and tender. A 
 familiar form of the genus is represented in 
 the numerous scale insects that infest the 
 bark of Apple, Peach, Elm and many other 
 trees, as well as that of greenhouse and in- 
 door plants. Of these insects in this scaly 
 stage some of them are oval with slightly 
 convex scales, others are decidedly convex, 
 and either formed like a boat turned bottom 
 side upwards, or are globular or kidney- 
 shaped. Another form is found in the white 
 scale on Ivy, Oleander, Orange and similar 
 leaves. Still others, while in a younger 
 stage of growth are mealy, hairy or woolly, 
 of which the well-known Mealy Bug of our 
 greenhouses and window gardens forms a 
 good illustration. The insects live by in- 
 serting their beaks into the bark or leaves 
 and draw from the cellular substance the 
 
8 
 
 OUR INSECT FOES; 
 
 sap that nourishes them. Concerning the 
 Bark Lice or Coccus on Apple trees, the 
 young shoots of which in many cases are 
 completely covered with them, Professor 
 Cook says he has known whole orchards to 
 languish because of this pest. The young 
 lice appear about two or three weeks after 
 the Apple blossoms fall, insert their little 
 beaks— really suction pumps — and soon suck 
 the sap and vigor from the trees. By Au- 
 gust the full formed scale is seen, under 
 which are stored 80 or more small white 
 eggs which will hatch the following June. 
 
 Rem. 22. Carbolic Acid and Soft Soap. A 
 strong solution of soft soap is the old and reliable 
 remedy. Professor Cook has improved on this by 
 the addition of crude carbolic acid, making the 
 mixture as follows: One quart of soft soap to 
 two gallons of water heated to the boiling point, 
 when one pint of crude carbolic acid is added, 
 stirring the solution well at the same time. This 
 should be applied early in June, and again some 
 months later, with a cloth or scrubbing brush, to 
 all affected parts. 
 
 Rem. 23. Whiskey for Mealy Bugs and Others. 
 Applied to the insects with a brush, this is an 
 effective remedy. Alcohol diluted with a little 
 water answers the same end. 
 
 Rem. 24. Fir-tree Oil. This is one of the most 
 recent and highly praised remedies for all species 
 of Coccus. The oil is mixed with water at the 
 rate of one fourth pint of the former to two and 
 a half gallons of water and syringed over the 
 plants about once a week. For strong-growing 
 Dracenas, Crotons, etc., a somewhat larger pro- 
 portion of the oil might be used. 
 
 Rem. 25. Pyrethrum Tea or Decoction. Prof. 
 E. W. Hilgard found that a tea simply prepared 
 from the unground flowers of Pyrethrum, when 
 sprayed from a fine rose, to be efficient even 
 against the armored scale-bug of the Orange and 
 Lemon, which fell off in two or three days after 
 the application, while the young brood are al- 
 most instantly killed. The tea should be made 
 with briskly boiling water covered over closely 
 to prevent evaporation, but not boiled, as that 
 would seriously impair its strength. 
 
 Rem. 26. Fish brine. This article has proved 
 
 effective, the oil with which it is charged doubt- 
 less penetrating the scale and killing the eggs 
 beneath. 
 
 Bean Weevil (Bruchus obsoletus). This 
 insect is becoming quite troublesome in 
 some sections. As the beetles do not ail 
 emerge from the beans until spring, they 
 are liable to be planted in the seed and the 
 evil thereby be continued and increased. 
 
 Rem. 27. Keeping over the Seed. If the beans 
 intended for seed be tightly tied up in stout paper 
 bags and be kept until the second year, there 
 will then be no living beetles within them, and 
 they will be equally valuable for seed. If, how- 
 ever, they have been badly perforated they 
 should not be used for planting, as many of 
 them would not germinate. For other remedies 
 see Pea Weevil. 
 
 Bisulphide of Carbon. See Remedies 102, 
 115, 120. 
 
 Birds that Destroy Insects. (28) Besides the 
 kinds named under remedies 41, 46, 47, 96, 
 as destructive to certain pests, the following 
 are to be classed among the most helpful 
 kinds in the general warfare against insects: 
 Robins (cut, and other earth worms) Swal- 
 lows, Night Hawks, Purple Martins, (moth- 
 Catcher) Pewees, (striped Cucumber bugs) 
 Wood Thrush and Wrens, (cut worms) Cat 
 Birds, (tent caterpillar) Meadow Larks, 
 Woodpeckers, Crows, (wireworms) Blue- 
 throated Buntings, (canker worms) Black, 
 red-winged birds, Jays, Doves and Pigeons, 
 Chippys, (strawberry pests) Quails, (chinch 
 bugs, locusts) Whip-Poor-Wills, (moths) 
 Hawks, except Cooper's, all night birds, 
 Owls, etc., Tanagers and black-winged sum- 
 mer Red birds, (curculios) Nut Crackers, 
 Fly Catchers, Chimney Swifts, Indigo Bird, 
 Chipping and Song Sparrows, Black Birds, 
 Mocking Birds, Titmouses, Vireas, Orchard 
 Orioles. 
 
 Blister Beetles. Of these there are a num- 
 ber of species, known as the Ash-gray, the 
 Margined, the Striped, etc. 
 
HOW TO DEAL WITH. 
 
 9 
 
 Rem. 29. Beating Down. This should be done 
 into a pan of water, soap suds or oil. 
 
 Borers. (See Peach Borers, Currant Bor- 
 ers, and Sugar Maple Borers.) There are 
 three species of beetles that do serious in- 
 jury to all parts of our country by boring 
 into the Apple and other trees. The big or 
 flat-headed borer, which cuts out a wide 
 space just under the bark on the southwest 
 side of the tree, and in case of small trees 
 entirely girdling the trunk, and two species 
 of beautiful longicorn or long horned 
 beetles, Saperda Candida and Saperda cre- 
 tata, which bore through and through, and 
 
 out with coal tar. I apply with a brush to the 
 tree up 18 inches, after first looking- for any 
 borers then in the tree. It has no bad effect. As 
 the tree grew, open spaces of new bark appeared 
 up and down the trunk. Next year I filled these 
 up. That year the bark under the tar loosened 
 more or less, exposing healthy new bark. Next 
 year I scraped off the rough loose scales and put 
 on a new coat. That, or something else, has kept 
 out borers. Any way it don't kill the trees." 
 
 Buhach. See Pyrethrum. 
 
 Cabbage Maggots or Club Root. See Mag- 
 gots. 
 
 Cabbage Worm. (Pieris raiphoe). This 
 
 keep feeding for three years. The first of WO r m , produced from the eggs of the white 
 these three work only one year, and seem R a pe Butterfly, represented by Figure 10, is 
 
 most destructive to trees that are not quite 
 up to the standard in vigor. Thus newly 
 set trees are specially susceptible to the at- 
 tack of this beetle. All three of these in- 
 sects lay their eggs in June and July, and 
 all may be best treated in the same way and 
 at the same time. 
 
 Rem. 30. Preventing Egg-laying. My experi- 
 ence has met with excellent success by use of soft 
 soap. I rub the trunk and main branches with 
 this, early in June, and again three or four 
 weeks later. If I can make but one application, 
 I use the crude carboMc acid and soft soap rem- 
 edy No. 33. With this, and ungloved hands, and 
 uncovered arms, I, by use of a cloth, rub the 
 whole trunk and large limbs of the tree, using 
 care not to sprinkle the f oliage. In case the 
 acid is very strong it might kill the foliage. 
 This is applied to the trees, two weeks after the 
 blossoms fall.— Professor Cook. 
 
 -Rem. 31. Probing for the Borers. See 103. 
 
 Rem. 32 . Coal Tar Paper— Bands of paper thor- 
 oughly saturated with coal tar, and eighteen 
 inches wide, tacked around the base of trees 
 troubled by the Root Borer have proved success- 
 ful. 
 
 Rem. 34. Coal Tar Direct— Mr. Chas. E. Thesher, 
 of Shawnee Co., Kansas, recently wrote to the 
 Prairie Farmer as follows: tfc I have lost one or- 
 chard by the Round-headed Borers. In another j 
 orchard I am having better luck, keeping them ' 
 
 a most injurious pest to Cabbage in most 
 places, and especially in small gardens. 
 
 Fig. 10. 
 
 Butterfly of the Cabbage Worm. 
 Remedies 35 and 38. 
 
 They come in two broods, the first Butter- 
 flies being seen in May, the second in Au- 
 gust, and the progeny of, the latter causes 
 the most trouble. Either the same or else a 
 very similar worm also devours the Mignon- 
 ette and some other plants. 
 
 Rem. 35. Pyrethrum. or Buhach— Liquid Form. 
 A tablespoonf ul of the pure powder to two gal- 
 lons of water, applying it by sprinkling with a 
 watering pot, or better yet, by force with a 
 pump. Here, as in all cases where we use liq- 
 uids to destroy insects, especially if as in this 
 case it kills by contact, we must apply with 
 great force, so that the liquid will spatter every- 
 where and so touch every insect. 
 
10 
 
 OUR INSECT FOES; 
 
 Rem. 36. Pyrethrum—Dry Form. One part of 
 the dry powder mixed with forty parts of finely 
 sifted wood ashes, dusting this over the Cab- 
 bages. If the mixture is prepared a day or two 
 before vising, keeping it in a perfectly tight ves- 
 sel in the meantime, it will have even a better 
 effect than when used freshly mixed. 
 
 Rem. 37. Hot Water. Sprinkle the plants with 
 hot water with the aid of a watering can and hose. 
 
 Rem. 38. Quassia Water. An infusion of one 
 pound of Quassia to one third barrel of water is 
 recommended for killing the Caterpillars and 
 preventing subsequent attacks. The same 
 remedy has been used with success for plant lice 
 and other insects. 
 
 Canker Worm of the Apple, Elm, and Some 
 Other Trees. (Anisopteryx vernata Peck.) 
 — While this insect is not of frequent occur- 
 ence outside of the New England States, it 
 is of the utmost importance to fruit growers 
 and others that it be not permitted to in- 
 crease and extend until it shall become es- 
 tablished. Its sluggish wingless female 
 moths rise from the ground and creep slow- 
 ly up the trunks of Apple, Elm, and less 
 abundantly many other trees, chiefly in 
 March, but also later, and somewhat in the 
 fall, laying their eggs in clusters on the 
 bark, these being secured by a grayish var- 
 nish. The eggs usually hatch about the 
 time the Red Currant is in blossom, and 
 the Apple leaves begin to grow. The little 
 worms attack the tender leaves near by, 
 first piercing them with small holes, which 
 later become larger and more irregular, 
 and at last nearly all parts but the midrib 
 and veins will be consumed. When young 
 they are generally of a blackish or dusty 
 brown color, with a yellowish stripe on 
 each side. When fully grown, at which 
 time they measure one inch or less in length, 
 they usually assume an ash color on the 
 back, and black on the sides, below which 
 the pale yellowish line remains. They vary 
 in color somewhat, however, being at times 
 found of a dull greenish yellow, or of a clay 
 
 color, and even green. 
 
 Rem. 39. Banding. Banding the trees with 
 strips of heavy paper or cloth, coated with tar or 
 printer's ink, early in the spring, to prevent the 
 ascent of the wingless females, is an old and ef- 
 fective remedy. It has been found that the 
 residuum of kerosene oil is one of the best reme- 
 dies that can be used on bands, it being both 
 cheaper and lasts longer (about six days) than 
 ink or tar. The latter articles must be frequent- 
 ly renewed. Traps made of tin and muslin to 
 prevent the ascent of the worms are also in use. 
 
 Rem. 40. Arsenical Poisons. The spraying rec- 
 ommended in Remedy 15 for the Codling Moth on 
 Apple trees answers at the same time to destroy 
 the young Canker Worms. On Elm and other 
 trees this same remedy may be applied for its 
 destruction. 
 
 Rem. 41. Birds. The Cedar bird devours large 
 numbers of Canker worms; a hundred caterpillars 
 have been found in the stomach of one of these. 
 Next in usefulness according to Dr. Lintner, 
 come the Indigo bird, the Chickadee, the black 
 billed Cuckoo, Yellow Bird, the Summer Warb- 
 ler, the rose-breasted Grosbeak, the Blue Bird, 
 the King Bird and the Robin, in the order named. 
 
 Rem. 42. Swine. By allowing swine to run in 
 the orchards in the spring many will be destroyed. 
 Carbolic Acid. See Remedies 22, 159. 
 Caterpillars. The remarks which here fol- 
 low will apply to most kinds of Caterpillars 
 that infest fruit and shade trees, shrubs, 
 
 Fig. 11. Caterpillar of White Tussock Moth, Rem. 43, 47. 
 
 etc. But to the well-known Caterpillar of 
 the white-marked Tussock Moth (Orgyia 
 leucostigma), and which is shown feeding 
 on a leaf in figure 11, special attention is 
 here called. It is more commonly familiar 
 
HOW TO DEAL WITH. 
 
 11 
 
 in the cities than elsewhere, owing to its 
 depredations, often severe on street and 
 other shade trees, and calling for the com- 
 mon but questionable remedy of cotton 
 bands about the trunks. In color it pre- 
 sents the rich and varying diversity of 
 cream yellow, (sometimes changing to 
 white), velvety black and brownish spots, 
 stripes and brush-like hairs, with a coral 
 red head. There are also two long plumes 
 of black hair rising from the head and a 
 similar one from the last dorsal joint. 
 
 Rem. 43. Arsenical Poisons. Same as 15. "Lon- 
 don purple, as already shown," says Professor Ri- 
 ley, in a recent report, " is perhaps preferable to 
 white arsenic or Paris green, in that it is not so 
 liable to burn the leaves, while its color enables 
 one to readily distinguish poisoned from non- 
 poisoned trees. Moreover it is very cheap. 
 From one-quarter to three-quarters of a pound 
 of this substance and three quarts of cheap or 
 damaged flour, to render the mixture adhesive 
 and to lessen the tendency of the poison to burn 
 the leaves, should be used to a barrel of water. 
 The greater quantity of the poison may prove 
 too strong for delicate young trees, and it will 
 be best for general application to make the 
 amount from three-eighths to one-half pound 
 to the barrel. An apparatus for applying can 
 be readily constructed, such as has been used on 
 the grounds of the Department. It should con- 
 sist of a water tank mounted on a cart and fur- 
 nished with a strong force pump, operated by 
 one man and furnished with two sets of rubber 
 tubing, each supported by a bamboo extension 
 pole (Figure 3), with a cyclone nozzle at tip. 
 With such an apparatus as this three men could 
 drive along the streets and thoroughly spray 
 two trees simultaneously; while if it were found 
 advisable, four independent tubes and four men 
 to work them could be employed, with a suffic- 
 iently powerful pump, and thus expedite the 
 work. 
 
 Rem. 44. Destruction of the Orgxjia Eggs. This, 
 Prof. Lintner suggests, may be accomplished to 
 a great extent with moderate labor. During 
 June and later, and especially late in fall and 
 during winter, the egg-masses may be seen as 
 glistening, slightly woven white objects, becom- 
 
 ing weather-worn after long exposure, and often 
 occurring in patches of a dozen or more. They 
 may be met on the trunks or larger branches of 
 trees— a favorite location being where limbs are 
 cut— in the corners of angles about fences, un- 
 der window sills, etc. Children prove ready col- 
 lectors for a small reward. Those out of arm's 
 reach can be removed with a scraper prepared 
 for the purpose. To show how effective may be 
 this means of preventing the Caterpillar's ap- 
 pearance, it may be said that over 700 eggs of 
 these have been counted in a single egg-mass. 
 
 Rem . 45 . Cotton Bands. The indiscriminate use 
 of these, says our able State Entomologist, Prof. 
 J. A. Lintner, in his last report, must be con- 
 demned for the Orgyia. They may be of service, 
 and they may be decidedly objectionable, from 
 the fact that the attack, in almost every in- 
 stance, proceeds from the eggs deposited the pre- 
 ceding year upon the tree. If, therefore, Remedy 
 43 could be applied with the certainty that no 
 egg clusters are upon the tree, then a band ap- 
 plied would prevent any wandering Caterpillars 
 from ascending its trunk. But with the eggs or 
 the young larvae being already upon the tree, 
 the band will prove a positive evil, in prevent- 
 ing migration to other feeding ground. The 
 barriers, too, prevent the mature Caterpillars 
 from descending to the rougher bark of the 
 lower part of the trunk, in the crevices of which 
 they prefer to build their cocoons, and would 
 confine them to the tree, where it would be diffi- 
 cult to discover the egg-clusters, and destroy 
 them. 
 
 Rem. 46. WarUpon the English Sparrows. Our 
 troublesome English sparrows not only decline 
 to eat this Caterpillar, but by force of numbers 
 and their pugnacious dispositions they drive 
 away the few birds that would feed upon them. 
 Of such, according to Prof. Lintner, there are 
 but the four named under Remedy 47. 
 
 Rem. 47. Birds. Of these but four species that 
 destroy this Caterpillar are known, namely: the 
 Robin, the Baltimore Oriole, the black-billed 
 Cuckoo, and the yellow-billed Cuckoo. 
 
 Celery Fly. For preventing the ravages of 
 this pest the following remedies may be of 
 use: 
 
 Rem. 48. Soluble Phenyle. By syringing the 
 
12 
 
 OUR INSECT FOES; 
 
 plants with a very dilute mixture of this drug, 
 and water, the insect may be checked. 
 
 Rem. 49. Gas Lime. This applied freshly in 
 the autumn to the ground to be planted the next 
 year, incorporating it a few inches deep, will kill 
 the pupae of the fly. 
 
 Celery Worm. Treat as directed for Cab- 
 bage Worm or for Sphinges, which see. 
 
 Cherry and Pear Tree Slug. The Cherry 
 and Pear tree slug is two brooded. The 
 black flies come in May, lay eggs on the 
 
 Fig. 12. 
 
 Cherry and Pear Tree Slugs at Work, 
 Remedies 45, 47. 
 
 leaves of the trees, and the larvas or slugs, 
 which are brown and slimy, feed upon the 
 cuticle of the leaves. A second brood comes 
 in September. 
 
 Rem. 50. Road Dust, Ashes, or Air-Slaked 
 Lime.— I know (Professor Cook) by actual trial 
 that road dust thrown on to these slugs will 
 sometimes drive them all from the trees. I also 
 know that at other times it will apparently do 
 little or no good. Whether this arises from the 
 varying character of the earth or a different 
 condition of the insect, I do not know. 
 
 Rem. 5 1 . Pyrethrum or Bubach—Same as Rem- 
 edy 36. We have used, always with perfect sat- 
 isfaction, using a Woodason dust bellows. 
 
 Rem. 52. Liquid Hellebore. One pound of Hel- 
 lebore powder to twenty-five or thirty gallons of 
 water, finely sprayed over the affected trees or 
 bushes, is one of the best and most easily ap- 
 plied remedies. The Hellebore kills not only by 
 contact but also by being eaten. Hence Profes- 
 sor Lintner finds that the addition of a small 
 
 quantity of flour to the water gives it greater 
 adhesiveness and worth, over a longer period. 
 Rem. 53. Kerosene Emulsion. Same as 6. 
 Cherry Worm. See Curculio. 
 Chrysanthemum Lice. See Aphis, or Plant 
 Lice. 
 Coccus. See Bark Lice, or Coccus. 
 Coal Tar. See Remedies 7, 32, 137. 
 Codling Moth. See Apple Worm. 
 Corn or Boll Worm, (HeUothis armigera). 
 This pest, so destrutive to the Cotton 
 and Corn-fields of the Southern States, 
 has in recent years made its appearance 
 as an injurious insect in the North. Fig- 
 ure 14 represents the worm at about its 
 ordinary size. It not only attacks grow- 
 ing Corn, devouring the soft kernels in 
 patches, but also bores into the fruit and 
 stems of the Tomato; it eats into the 
 pods of Peas and Beans, and burrows 
 into Squashes, Peppers, Pumpkins, as 
 well as into the stem of Gladiolus, etc. 
 
 Rem. 54. Hand-pick- 
 ing. Experience in the 
 South has shown that 
 if the first brood of the 
 Caterpillars are col- 
 lected and destroyed 
 their ravages may be 
 controlled. Their pres- 
 ence can be discovered 
 either when at work on 
 the surface, or else, as 
 in the case of Corn, by 
 the holes eaten into the 
 husks. 
 
 Rem. 55. Attracting by Odors and Drowning. 
 Where the insect occurs abundantly it is very 
 successfully dealt with by attracting the moth 
 to a mixture of molasses and vinegar. The 
 odor, it is said, will draw them quite a distance, 
 and in their attempts to feed they readily be- 
 come caught and drown. 
 
 Copperas or Blue Vitriol Water. (56). A 
 solution of Blue Vitriol (Sulphate of Cop- 
 per) in the proportion of one ounce to a pail 
 
 Fig. 14. The Corn or 
 Boll Worm. 
 
HOW TO DEAL WITH. 
 
 13 
 
 of water, will serve to kill many kinds of 
 grubs, maggots, etc., in the soil, and of 
 small caterpillars on plants. 
 
 Cucumber Beetle. (Diabrotica vittata.) 
 This is a well-known small striped beetle 
 that troubles Cucumbers, Squashes, and 
 Melons, making its appearance as soon as 
 the leaves begin to expand, and a number 
 of broods are produced during the course of 
 the season. It is to the young plants that 
 the insect is most injurious, and the great 
 secret in dealing. with it is to begin the 
 treatment positively in advance of the in- 
 sect's appearance. 
 
 Rem. 57. Plaster or Ashes, etc., and Kerosene. 
 To two quarts of plaster, wood ashes, or flour of 
 bone, add one tablespoonf ul of kerosene, rub- 
 bing the mixture between the hands until the 
 oil is well distributed. Sift or hand sprinkle 
 this over the plants as soon as the first leaves ap- 
 pear, repeating it a few times until all are 
 through the ground, and also later if this be re- 
 quired. 
 
 Bern. 58. Arsenical Poisons (which see.) Apply- 
 ing a little when the vines are dry. 
 
 Curculio, or Weevil, of the Plum, Apricot, 
 Cherry, etc. (Conotrachelus). This is the 
 greatest enemy of the Plum and some other 
 stone fruits, while also affecting the Apple 
 and other kinds. Within a 
 few years especially serious 
 damage has been done to 
 Apples. Its attacks are fol- 
 lowed by great deformity 
 in the fruit. The Apples 
 are often stung many times 
 and become so gnarled, dis- 
 torted, and scarred as to be 
 wholly worthless. From ob- 
 servations made the past 
 season, I believe the Apples 
 will suffer attack very rarely 
 if Plum trees are scattered liberally among 
 the Apple trees. In this case the Weevils 
 will attack their favorite, the Plum, and so 
 
 Fig. 14. Curculio 
 Beetle stinging 
 a Plum previ- 
 ous to laying 
 its eggs. 
 
 the Apples will go free. If this prove in- 
 variably true, as it has in several cases which 
 have come under my observation the past 
 season, then it will pay doubly well to plant 
 the Plum trees. The Plums will protect 
 the Apples, and by jarring, the Plums may 
 be saved and the fruit grower will secure 
 good crops of both fruits. Dr. Harris says 
 that the Cherry Worm, which is very com- 
 mon in this fruit, is identical with the Plum 
 Curculio, but unlike the effects of the insect 
 on the Plum, it does not cause the Cherry 
 to drop prematurely to the ground. 
 
 Rem. 59. Jarring Process. This is a simple 
 and adequate remedy within the means of every- 
 
 
 Fig. 15. Popular Gardening's Non-Patented Curculio 
 Catcher. 
 
 one's employing. It consists of spreading cloth 
 sheets, or frames of some form covered with 
 cloth, under the tree, jarring the tree sharply by 
 striking on an inserted spike or on the stump of 
 a lower limb removed for the purpose. An ex- 
 cellent device of our own for this purpose is il- 
 lustrated in Fig. 15. The cloth at the near end of 
 the frame is attached to a single light strip of 
 board, while at the center of the entire area it is 
 divided into two parts, the further end of each 
 being attached to a short cross piece, which in 
 turn is supported by one arm of a light frame, 
 as shown in the figure. The two further cross 
 pieces are one foot apart at B to admit of bringing 
 
14 
 
 OUR INSECT FOES; 
 
 the frame under the tree, with its center and main 
 cross arm resting' against the trunk during the 
 jarring. A flap of cloth, A, extends from one of 
 the projecting parts to the other, to be raised 
 and again let down in adjusting the frame. Con- 
 cerning the jarring operation, this should be be- 
 gun as soon as the insect commences its work, 
 which is soon after the fruit is set. The work of 
 the insect may easily be detected by the small 
 cresent-shaped mark that is left on the fruit. 
 The jarring process need not necessarily be per- 
 formed early in the morning while the dew is on, 
 or late in the afternoon. The insect will not so 
 readily let go its hold, as when it is actually at 
 work, and this is not until the dew has dried off 
 and the atmosphere has become warm. The num- 
 ber of times that an orchard should be gone over 
 depends upon the varieties. Those that become 
 hard and downy soon, like Richmond, Lombard, 
 Reine Claude, etc., require much less jarring 
 than large, smooth kinds like Pond Seedling, 
 Yellow Egg, Coe's Golden Drop, etc. It should 
 be repeated daily for one week, and then at in- 
 tervals of a day or so between, so long as the in- 
 sect remains at work. 
 
 Rem. 60. Poisoning by using the arsenical pois- 
 on of number 15, spraying the trees, Weir says: 
 First, just before the blossom buds open; second, 
 two weeks after the petals fall. If a weak, soapy 
 kerosene emulsion is used at this spraying to 
 mix the poisons in, it will also destroy the leaf 
 lice, aphides, bugs and all other insects injurious 
 to the fruit and foliage ; and ttten a third spray- 
 ing about June 10th, and your fruit is safe. 
 
 Rem. 61. Planting Wild Plums. These Plums 
 planted en masse in sufficient quantity on a 
 place will gather unto themselves all the Plum 
 Curculios on the place and so protect all other 
 fruits from its ravages. And being on them the 
 female naturally lays her eggs in the fruit, few 
 of which ever hatch, and so few reach maturity 
 in this fruit. The extensive planting of the 
 same on a place will alone well nigh extermin- 
 ate the pest.— Wier. 
 
 Currant Borer. This little Caterpillar, for 
 it is really the larva of a beautiful little 
 blue moth, is becoming more and more 
 common. The moth lays the eggs on the 
 canes of the Currant in June, and the larva 
 
 as soon as the egg hatches enters the stalk, 
 and not only hollows it out, but kills it out- 
 right. I (Professor Cook) know a certain 
 region in Michigan where these little pests 
 have ruined every Currant plantation ex- 
 cept a tew that have been carefully looked 
 after. 
 
 Rem. 62. Removing Affected Parts. Cut all 
 such off late in the fall or early in the spring and 
 burn them. As the borers are now in the stems 
 they are also burned. The diseased canes can 
 easily be told by their dead or dying tips. Such 
 treatment is the price of the Currant bushes 
 wherever they are attacked by these insects. 
 
 Currant and Gooseberry Slug or Worm. (Ne- 
 matus ventricosus.) This voracious in- 
 sect differs from the Cherry slug. The flies 
 are yellow, not black. The slugs are green, 
 or green dotted with black, and not brown. 
 They feed on the Gooseberry or Currant, 
 and eat the leaf entire, instead of merely 
 removing the cuticle. It is so readily dealt 
 with by the timely application of remedies 
 that there can be no possible excuse for the 
 shocking damage often seen done to these 
 useful fruits about town and country 
 homes. 
 
 Rem. 63. Powdered Hellebore. Hellebore 
 the best of known remedies and a perfectly ef- 
 fectual one. Properly applied no harm can pos- 
 sibly result from it. It should, according to 
 Prof. Lintner, be used in the following manner. 
 Early in the spring, as soon as the leaves of the 
 Currant have fully put forth, watch for the first 
 indications of the hatching and commencement 
 of the young larvae. You have only to look for 
 these on the lowest leaves of the bushes near the 
 ground. The indications will be numerous 
 small holes eaten into the leaves. Sprinkle pow- 
 dered Helleboi*e over these leaves, renewing it 
 if washed away by rain, and the desired end is 
 accomplished. If the Hellebore remains upon 
 1 the leaves during the time that larvae are hatch- 
 ing all will be killed, and none will remain for 
 subsequent spreading over the leaves and for 
 the need of future attention. If the first brood 
 of worms is thus destroyed there will be few if 
 any to form a second brood in June. 
 
BOW TO DEAL WITH. 
 
 15 
 
 Bern. 64. Hand Pinching. Some find it con- 
 venient to watch for the first eaten leaves, and 
 to pinch them off by hand and destroy them. 
 The eggs are always to be found conspicuously 
 arranged in rows upon the veins of the under 
 side of the leaves. 
 
 Bern. 65. Nicotyl. Laying some refuse to- 
 bacco stems from the cigarmaker's in the center 
 of each bush about May 1st, or mulching the 
 bushes with tobacco stems, or these mixed with 
 strawy manure, afford a complete remedy. 
 
 Bern. 66. Busting with Soot. This has recent- 
 ly-been recommended as being equally as de- 
 structive to this worm as is Hellebore. 
 
 Cut- Worms. (Agrotis, etc.) Of these de- 
 structive worms, which have the habit of 
 leaving their places of concealment in the 
 soil at night, coming to the surface and cut- 
 ting off almost every kind of newly set 
 vegetable and 
 flowering plants, 
 there are now 
 known to be many 
 species. Those of 
 the genus Agrotis, 
 being mostly 
 thick, greasy-look- 
 ing Caterpillars of 
 some shade of 
 gray, brown or 
 green, variously 
 marked, are the 
 best known and 
 well to be looked 
 upon with dread. 
 
 Bern. 67. Poisoning. Put a teaspoonful of 
 Paris green or London purple in two gallons of 
 water, and sprinkle handf uls of grass, or green 
 sods, which can then be scattered throughout the 
 patch, walking crossways of the harrow marks. 
 By doing this towards evening after the last 
 harrowing, during the night the cut worms that 
 are deprived of their food will be out looking for 
 fresh pastures and will appropriate of the pre- 
 pared bait, the smallest particle of the poison of 
 which will kill. If the worms are very trouble- 
 some, the remedy can be repeated, it being easily 
 applied. 
 
 Fig. 16. Cut Worms turned 
 away. Remedy 68. 
 
 Bern. 68. Shielding the Stem. By encircling 
 each plant that is set with a bit of tar paper, or 
 even other paper, as shown in Figure 16, the rav- 
 ages of the worm may be prevented. The paper 
 should extend upwards several inches from a 
 point just beneath the surface of the soil. 
 
 Bern. 69. Fall Plowing and Digging. 
 
 Bern. 70. Hunting and Killing. By closely ex- 
 amining the surface of the soil in the morning, 
 in the vicinity of their spoils, their place of 
 retreat may usually be discovered, and the 
 worms be killed. 
 
 Earth or Angle Worm. This common red 
 worm, found in all soils, is harmless so far 
 as eating the plants is concerned, but does 
 damage by feeding on the nutriment of the 
 soil and otherwise doing it injury. 
 
 Bern. 71. lAme Water easily kills this worm, 
 the caustic of the lime acting fatally on its 
 cuticle. One peck of lime to a barrel of water 
 will make the needed solution, allowing this to 
 settle and watering the plants once thoroughly 
 with the clear water. 
 
 Elm-leaf Beetle. The worm and larvae of 
 this pest has now become widely extended, 
 doing great injury to the Elm trees of our 
 cities. It is shown at work in the accom- 
 panying engraving, and its presence is soon 
 apparent by the blighted appearance of the 
 trees. 
 
 Bern. 72. Arsenical Poisons. Same as 43, which 
 should be applied for the first early in June, and 
 again a few weeks later, if it seems necessary. 
 
 Fir Tree Oil. See Remedy 24, 149. 
 
 Fish Brine. See Remedy 26. 
 
 Flea Beetles. (Haltica.) As soon as the 
 Cabbage, Radish, Turnip, Ten Week Stocks, 
 and some other plants show their first leaves 
 in the spring they are liable to be visited by 
 the Black or Striped Flea Beetle. These 
 minute beetles soon do great injury to the 
 young plants if not checked. They are so 
 shy in their habits that it is quite difficult to 
 get a view of them, but their presence may 
 always be known by the spotted appearance 
 
16 
 
 OUR INSECT FOES; 
 
 of the leaves. The Grape-vine Flea Beetle is 
 a near relative, varying in color from steel 
 blue to metallic green and purple. 
 
 Fig. 17. Imported Elm Beetle. A, eggs; b, larvae feed- 
 ing; c, adult; d, beetle enlarged; e, eggs enlarged. 
 
 Rem. 73. Poisoning. The surest way to destroy 
 them is by using Paris green or London purple 
 mixed with land plaster, flour, dry leached 
 ashes, etc., one part of the poison to fifty of the 
 plaster. If the plants can be dusted in the morn- 
 ing so much the better, but I generally do it 
 when I first see the insects at work, which is in 
 the heat of the day. One application usually 
 suffices.— B. J. Coryell. 
 
 Rem. 74. Dusting with Lime, Ashes, etc. This 
 common, simple remedy, if not so positive as the 
 last, yet proves very effective if persistently ap- 
 plied. 
 
 Rem. 69. Domesticating Toads. The large com- 
 mon toad is a most successful nocturnal collector 
 
 of beetles and other forms of insects, and its 
 presence in the garden and greenhouse should be 
 constantly encouraged. The stomach of one 
 examined was found to be nearly full of flea- 
 beetles of a species abounding on Cabbages and 
 Turnips in a garden. The toad is not partial to 
 any one kind of insect, however, but devours all 
 kinds with avidity and in immense numbers. 
 Fir Saw-fly. See Saw-flies. 
 Flour. See use of in Remedies 43, 73, 108. 
 Fowls. (76.) Under Remedies 19, 79, etc., 
 some reference is made to these, to which 
 may be added that Turkeys, Ducks and Geese 
 are devours of great quantities of insects. We 
 have known of a garden being kept entirely 
 clean of these by permitting a small flock of 
 Ducks to make it their home. They do not 
 scratch like chickens. Muscovy Ducks are 
 objectionable, for they consume buds also. 
 Young Turkeys are voracious consumers of 
 insects. 
 
 Gall Flies and their Grubs. Excrescences 
 of various kinds known as Galls and pro- 
 duced by the deposit of eggs of insects in the 
 bark or leaves of plants may often be seen. 
 What is commonly known as the Oak Apple 
 is caused by a Gall Fly. When cut longi- 
 tudinally the Gall is seen to inclose a great 
 number of granules, each containing a 
 minute larva. The Rose Gall, frequently 
 seen as rather a handsome globular excres- 
 cence on the branches of Wild Rose bushes, 
 is the work of another Gall Fly. The Elm, 
 Beech, and other trees, besides many other 
 forms of growth, frequently show Galls of 
 some kinds, either on the twigs, leaves, or 
 roots. 
 
 Rem. 77. Removal and Burning. The only 
 remedy is to cut off the excrescences as soon as 
 they are observed, and putting them into the fire. 
 Gas Lime. See Remedy 49. 
 Gooseberry Slug. See Currant Slug. 
 Grape Berry Moth Larva. This worm at- 
 tacks the young berries about July 1, show- 
 ing its presence by a discoloration at the 
 
HOW TO DEAL WITH. 
 
 17 
 
 point of entrance. It generally eats out the 
 interior of the berry, and if the fruit is dis- 
 turbed the worm wriggles out and lets itself 
 to the ground by means of its silken thread. 
 
 Rem. 78. Bagging the Clusters. The course is a 
 most simple one. Common light manilla bags, 
 the size known as two pound bags, are usually 
 employed. These are slipped on over each clus- 
 ter of the fruit and secured somewhat loosely by 
 pins or a loop of wire or thread. If the stem of the 
 cluster is brought against one end of the opening 
 a single pin to a bag will answer, if in the middle, 
 to have the paper bear evenly on all sides, then 
 several pins or stitches are needed. A small slit 
 should also be made in the bottom of each bag, 
 to allow escape for any water that may enter 
 into it along the stem. From 500 to 1000 bags can 
 be put on in a day by one person, and costing 
 from % to 1 cent per pound of fruit. Bagging 
 also serves as a prevention of mildew and rot, 
 and protection from birds, fowls, etc. The time 
 to bag the fruit is as soon as it is well set. 
 
 Grape Leaf Hopper. (Erythroyieura vitis.) 
 This active little insect, often erroneously 
 called Thrips, is one of the most trouble- 
 some known to the Grape grower. It is 
 hardly above an eighth of an inch long ; it 
 jumps with great vigor, and dodges around 
 quickly with a sidewise motion when ap- 
 proached. It congregates in great numbers 
 on the underside of the leaves, where it sucks 
 up the sap, causing numerous brown spots 
 and often killing the leaves. Of this insect 
 there are several species, differing only in 
 color. 
 
 Rem. 79. Torch Remedy. Pass between the 
 rows with a strong torch at night, one person to 
 carry the torch and one on each side to slightly 
 shake the trellise for starting them towards the 
 flame. They fly readily to the light and being 
 small are at once destroyed. 
 
 Rem. 80. Kerosene Emulsion. Same as 6. 
 
 Rem. SI. Cleanliness. As they pass the winter 
 under leaves, loose bark of the stakes, etc. 
 Cleanliness in removing and burning the leaves 
 in the fall, as well as cleaning away all lodging 
 places, is of the first importance. 
 
 Grape-vine Flea-beetles. See Flea-beetles. 
 
 Grape Curculio (Cceliocles incequalis.) The 
 larva of this curculio infests the Grape in 
 June and July, causing a little black hole in 
 the skin and a discoloration of the berry 
 immediately around it. This Curculio is 
 small and inconspicuous, being of a black 
 color, with a grayish tint. It is very bad 
 some years and in others scarcely noticeable. 
 
 Rem. 82. Jarring and Removing Berries. All 
 infested berries should, from time to time, as 
 they are noticed, be collected and destroyed, and 
 the beetle may be jarred down on sheets, as with 
 the Plum Curculio. 
 
 Rem. 83. Bagging the Clusters. Same as Rem- 
 edy 78. 
 
 Grasshoppers. A remedy that gives prom- 
 ise of being a most excellent one for this 
 well-known pest comes from the Pacific 
 Coast, having first been published in the 
 Pacific Rural Press as follows: 
 
 Rem. 84. Mash of Bran and other Ingredients. 
 The mash consists of four parts of bran, one part 
 of sugar and one and one-half parts of arsenic, 
 to which is added a sufficient quantity of water 
 to make a wet mash. Mix the arsenic thoroughly 
 with the bran; put the sugar in the water and 
 stir until the sugar is dissolved. Then pour this 
 sugar- water into the bran and arsenic and stir 
 thoroughly. A common washtubf ul of this mash 
 is sufficient for about five acres of Grape-vines. 
 Throw about a teaspoonf ul of the mixture be- 
 neath each vine infested, and in a short time the 
 Grasshoppers will leave the vine and commence 
 feeding on the bran, and in a few hours will be 
 found to be dead. The mixture costs from thirty- 
 five to forty cents per acre of vineyard. Mid- 
 dlings or shorts have been used in the place of 
 bran, but are not so desirable. 
 
 Grape-vine Fidia. (Fidia viticida.) This 
 beetle, often confused with the Rose bug 
 (See Fig. 25), which it somewhat resembles, 
 being rather shorter and broader, is in 
 many places very injurious. It comes around 
 during June and July, inflicting damage 
 by riddling the leaves, sometimes if very 
 numerous so that they are but mere shreds. 
 
18 
 
 OUR INSECT FOES; 
 
 Rem. 85. Jarring. Same as No. 59. The least 
 jar is sufficient to cause the insects to fall. 
 
 Rem. 86, Fowls. By starting- a flock of fowls 
 in the vineyard, having- one boy go ahead to 
 shake the infested vines, and another behind the 
 fowls, vineyards have been completely cleaned 
 of the pest. 
 
 Grape-vine Worms. See Sphinges. 
 Green Fly or Lice. See Aphis. 
 Grubs, White. See May-bugs. 
 Hellebore. See Remedies 52, 63, 127. 
 Honeysuckle Sawfly. See Sawflies. 
 
 Hot Water Remedy. See Remedies 5, 12, 37, 
 154. 
 
 Household Insects. See Pyrethrum; also 
 Remedies 2 to 4. It may be added that as a 
 remedy to be applied on living creatures a 
 mixture of crude petroleum and lard will 
 kill all insects. 
 
 Insect Powder. See Pyrethrum. 
 
 Jarring. See Remedy 59, 75. 
 
 Kerosene. See Remedies 6, 57. 
 
 Lady Bug. See Remedy 13 and Fig. IS. 
 
 Leaf Crumplers. (Phycis indigenella.) A 
 conspicuous pest of various fruit trees and 
 widely distributed. Its presence is at once 
 known by its work of bringing a considera- 
 ble mass of leaves together, (which soon turn 
 brown), and attaching them to each other 
 and to the twigs by means of silken threads. 
 The brown, wrinkled worm is within. The 
 next season young worms appear from the 
 mass and feed on the new crop of leaves. 
 
 Rem. 87. Gathering the masses and burniug 
 them. 
 
 Leaf Skeletonizers. Under this head might 
 be brought a number of insects, including 
 Slugs, that feed on the parenchyma of the 
 upper surface of the leaves. They may be 
 destroyed by remedies 6 and 43, according to 
 their habits. 
 
 Leaf Rollers. There are many Caterpillars 
 that curl or fold up the edges of the leaves 
 of plants, securing both habitations and 
 food to the insects. In the case of the Grape- 
 vine Leaf Roller, Verbena Leaf Roller and 
 others, the worm is of a grass-green color, 
 
 Fig. 13. Lady Bug and Larva. 
 
 very active, wriggling, jumping and jerk- 
 ing either way at every touch. 
 
 Rem. 88. Crushing. The most simple method 
 to destroy the worms is by crushing them sud- 
 denly within the leaf with the hand. 
 
 Rem. 89. Fall Burning of Dead Leaves. As 
 the last brood hybernates in the chrysalis state 
 within fallen leaves, much may be done, especi- 
 ally in the case of the Grape and other fruits 
 towards checking the ravages of this worm by 
 raking up and burning the leaves in the fall. 
 
 Lime, Ashes, Lime Water, etc. See Remedies 
 17, 50, 71, 74, 131. 
 
HOW TO DEAL WITH. 
 
 19 
 
 London Purple. (90.) This insecticide, which 
 has assumed so much importance to plant 
 cultivators, is a refuse material obtained in 
 the manufacture of analine dyes, heretofore 
 worthless. It appears to be mainly an ar- 
 senite of lime. Its efficacy in the destruction 
 of insects seems to be about equal to that of 
 Paris green, although it does not act upon 
 insect life quite so rapidly. Its cost is also 
 less. See Remedy 108; also, 15, 43, 67. 
 
 Lye Solution. See Remedy 116. 
 
 Maple Borer. See Sugar Maple Borer. 
 
 Maple-tree Scale. See Bark Lice. 
 
 Maggots of the Cabbage, Onion and Radish 
 Flies. (Atithomyia.) These terrible and 
 widespread destroyers are very hard to 
 combat, and so are among our worst insect 
 pests. The little flies, which look like small 
 house flies, lay their 
 white eggs at the base 
 of the plants. The little 
 conical maggots groove 
 and deface the Radishes 
 and utterly destroy the 
 Onions and Cabbages by 
 tunneling to under- 
 ground stems, causing 
 club-root. While the 
 kerosene and soap mix- 
 ture and bisulphide of 
 carbon will surely kill 
 if they reach the insects, 
 they are not satisfactory 
 in real practice. Owing *%$ EZfS^otat 
 to difference in soil, work. 
 and the speed with which the Maggot enters 
 the plants, such remedies are not practi- 
 cal. I have found as yet no satisfactory 
 insecticide to destroy these insects. — Pro- 
 fessor Oook. 
 
 Rem. 91. Covering the Beds. For the Radish 
 Maggot I know of no sure way except to keep 
 the beds of early Radishes entirely covered with 
 thin cloth.— Professor Cook. 
 
 Rem. 92. Change of Location. For Onions 
 and Cabbage a frequent change in the location 
 of the beds serves the best. We have found now 
 for two years that a removal of our beds one-half 
 mile with an intervening orchard has saved our 
 Cabbages. If the same insect attacks both Onion 
 and Cabbage, as I believe is true, then we must 
 move the location of both vegetables at the same 
 time.— Professor Cook. 
 
 Rem. 93. Destroying Affected Onions. In case 
 of an attack all affected plants should at once be 
 taken up by means of a broad-bladed knife to 
 lift the larvae, and then promptly burning and 
 otherwise purifying the soil and other matter 
 lifted. 
 
 Rem. 94. Preventing Club-root. Experiments 
 of the Eastern growers show that a liberal dress- 
 ing of lime and gas-lime to the soil, and harrowed 
 in, acts .as a preventive to Club-root and also kills 
 the Maggot.— Coryell. 
 
 May-bugs or May-beetles and their Larva. 
 (Lachno sterna.) Of this well-known pest, 
 both the beetles in their winged state and 
 its larva, the White 
 Grub, are often to a 
 very injurious degree 
 destructive to vegeta- 
 tion; the former injur- 
 ing the leaves and 
 growth above ground, 
 the latter the root, 
 indeed, in some seasons 
 May-bugs have been so 
 numerous as to devour the leaves of fruit 
 and forest trees and shrubs with an avidity 
 not much less than the Locust. They are 
 partial to the leaves of the Cherry. 
 
 Rem. 95. Jarring for May-hugs. Same as .54. 
 
 Rem. 96. Crows. These destroy many of the 
 perfect insects, as well as the Grubs. 
 
 Rem. 97. Artificial Breeding Places. Some 
 such made by covering piles of fresh cow-dung 
 with fine earth about the month of May will 
 attract the Beetles, as depositing places for their 
 eggs. As these hatch before winter, by then 
 turning over the heaps and spreading them out 
 so the material will lay loosely and not more than 
 
 Fig. 21. White Grub of 
 the May Beetle. 
 
20 
 
 OUR INSECT FOES; 
 
 six inches deep, doing 1 this as tbe earth is about 
 to freeze up, all will be killed by freezing-. 
 
 Rem. 98. Deep plowing of infested lands in the 
 fall. 
 
 Rem. 99. Swine will root up and destroy the 
 grubs if turned upon infested land. 
 
 Melon Vine Borer. See Squash Vine Borer. 
 
 Mignonette Worm. See Cabbage Worm. 
 
 Molasses and Poison. See Remedy 4. 
 
 Mustard Water. See Remedy 160. 
 
 Nicotyl. See Remedies 10, 65 and Fig. 21. 
 
 Onion Fly and Mag- 
 got. See Maggots. 
 
 Paraffine Oil. See 
 Remedies 11, 155. 
 
 Paris Green. See 
 Remedies 15, 43, 67. 
 
 Petroleum Crude. 
 See Household In- 
 sects. 
 
 Pine Tree Sawfly. 
 See Sawflies. 
 
 Pea Bug or Weevil. 
 This is the well- 
 known bug found 
 in Peas, and which, 
 by the time it is of 
 full growth has 
 consumed a large 
 portion of the grain, 
 to the great impair- 
 ment of its value both for food and seed. 
 
 Rem. 100. Soluble Phenyle. Miss Omei-od, the 
 accomplished English entomologist, reports that 
 by sowing the Peas along with coal ashes (sand 
 should do as well) saturated with a tablespoonf ul 
 of phenyle to a gallon of water, the ashes left 
 covered several days before use to become 
 thoroughly charged with the smell, the attack of 
 weevil was prevented on the new crop. 
 
 Rem. 101. Turpentine. Peas that have been 
 stung may be rendered bugless by placing them 
 as soon as gathered in jars or other tight vessels 
 adding as much as a teaspoonf ul of turpentine 
 
 A Nicotyl Vapor 
 
 to each jar. This will kill tho immature bugs 
 very soon. 
 
 Rem. 102. Bisulphide of Carbon. For treating 
 Peas on a large scale it is usual to submit them 
 to the heavy fumes of bisulphide of carbon, an 
 abominable smelling but destructive drug. 
 
 Peach Tree Borer. This is a most destruc- 
 tive insect when allowed to increase for a 
 few years without molestation, and their 
 multiplication should be prevented by all 
 possible means. The eggs are deposited in 
 summer on the base of the trunk, near the 
 collar, where the bark is soft. There they 
 are hatched and bore their way under the 
 bark of the tree, either in the stem or roots, 
 or both, producing an effusion of gum. 
 
 Rem. 103. Probing the Borer.— Ashes and Lime. 
 Bank up the soil around the stem firmly eight to 
 twelve inches directly after blooming, taking 
 it away in the middle of the following August' 
 and trace the grub through its holes in the tree 
 and kill it; then place a shovelful or two of 
 wood ashes around the base. Wood ashes or 
 slaked lime may be applied every spring and at 
 the end of summer may be scattered about the 
 tree, both of these articles forming an excellent 
 dressing for the Peach. See 31, 143. 
 
 Pear Slug. See Cherry and Pear Slugs. 
 
 Phenyle, Soluble. See Remedies 5, 100. 
 
 Pine Bark Chermes. The appearance of 
 this insect on Pine trees of several kinds is 
 known by little patches of a white wool- 
 like substance adhering to the bark. The 
 insect is found beneath this substance which 
 serves as a covering. 
 
 Rem. 104. Crushing with a Brush and Cloth. 
 By using a stiff brush on the branches and a strip 
 of cloth to draw repeatedly backward and for- 
 ward through the axils of the branches, the in- 
 sects can easily be killed. 
 
 Rem. 105. Whale Oil Soap. A solution formed 
 with a quarter of a pound of soap to a gallon of 
 water and applied with a force pump would 
 destroy the insect. 
 
 Plant Lice. See Aphis. 
 
 Plaster and Plaster of Paris. See Remedies 
 50, 73, 108. 
 
HOW TO DEAL WITH. 
 
 21 
 
 Potato Beetle. This insect is now too well 
 known to require any description. 
 
 Rem. 106. Early Poisoning. To poison the 
 adults when first they appear and before the 
 Potatoes are up is an effectual way of preventing 
 a large share of later trouble. By simply slicing 
 Potatoes thinly and dipping the pieces iuto Paris 
 green water, and then scattering these about the 
 field, the task is done. 
 
 Rem. 107. Arsenical Poison No. 15, 43. Apply- 
 ing for a few plants with a whisk, or for more 
 with a fine watering pot or force pump, taking 
 oare not to deluge the plants, but only to cover 
 with a light spray. 
 
 Rem. 108. Arsenical Poison, Dry Forms. This 
 may be prepared either from Paris green or 
 London purple, both of which appear to be of 
 about equal efficiency. The latter is the cheapest 
 and it has the advantage of being more readily 
 seen on the plants, but it does not accomplish its 
 work so rapidly, for often its effects are not ap- 
 parent until the second or third day after its 
 application. Used in a dry form the best results 
 have been obtained when cheap flour has been 
 used to dilute it, although road dust, land plaster, 
 plaster of Paris, etc., are employed for this pur- 
 pose also. The advantage in using flour is that 
 the compound seems to adhere better to the 
 leaves of plants and to be more readily eaten 
 than are the mineral and other substances. Po- 
 tato leaves will safely bear the poison as slightly 
 diluted as ten or twelve pounds of flour to one 
 pound of Paris green or London purple. Some 
 other vegetation will show injury to the leaves, 
 unless twenty pounds of flour be used with one 
 pound of Paris green, while of this poison even 
 thirty pounds of flour to one of the pure drug 
 will destroy a large proportion of insect pests. 
 In actual use London purple seems less liable to 
 injure the leaves of many plants than Paris green. 
 When the purple is prepared of the strength of 
 one pound of poison to ten of flour it will injure 
 only delicate vegetation. The latter reduced 
 with even seventy pounds of flour will be found 
 to kill nearly all leaf -eating larvae. For general 
 use the preparation of London purple recom- 
 mended and which has given the best practical 
 results, is one pound of the purple to forty of 
 flour. In using land plaster and plaster of Paris, 
 instead of flour about 150 pounds of the former 
 
 should be used to each pound of poison. Dry 
 road dust at the rate of one and one-half bushels 
 to one pound of poison, and of ashes two bushels 
 to the pound, have been found to be in about the 
 right proportion for effectually destroying the 
 Potato bug and its larva. In all cases the mater- 
 ials must be thoroughly mixed and should be 
 applied in early morning while the leaves are 
 wet with dew, that it may adhere the better. A 
 simple mode is to tie a muslin bag containing 
 the powder to the end of a stick and shaking it 
 over the plants. A rather better method is 
 that of a tin dusting box having a cover and 
 a finely perforated bottom, or one consisting 
 of light wire gauze or thin muslin turned up 
 over the end and bound on, and the box attached 
 to a handle about three feet long. By then walk- 
 ing along with the box turned over the plants 
 and supported with one hand, tapping it with a 
 small stick in the other hand, the powder can be 
 uniformly distributed. In case the growth of 
 vines nearly cover the ground the plaster or 
 ashes mixture can be sown broadcast over five 
 or so rows at once with economy of labor. Care 
 should in all cases be taken to keep to the wind 
 ward of the plants to be dusted, in order that 
 the poison may not be breathed. 
 
 Rem. 109. Prepared remedies, such as Slug 
 Shot. 
 
 Potato Worm. See Sphinges and their 
 larva. 
 
 Probing. See Remedies 31, 134, 143. 
 
 Promoting Growth as a Remedy. See Rem. 
 14. 
 
 Pumpkin Vine Borer. See Squash Vine 
 Borer. 
 
 Pyrethrum or Dalmation Insect Powder, " Bu- 
 hach." (110.) This remarkable vegetable in- 
 secticide consisting of the finely pulverized 
 flowers of Pyrethrum cineraricefolium, 
 (Another form is known as Persian Insect 
 Powder, from Pyrethrum roseum and P. 
 carneum), has the peculiar property of not 
 being injurious to human beings, but 
 stangely enough kills most kinds of insects 
 or spore-breathing creatures. On such the 
 powder appears to have the effect of produc- 
 
22 
 
 OUR INSECT FOES; 
 
 ing a paralysis, from which they rarely re- 
 cover, although life may linger for several 
 days. The powder is now produced on a 
 large scale in Califor- 
 nia. Pains should be 
 taken to use the article 
 fresh and pure, and to 
 keep it in air-tight bot- 
 tles or boxes, for its 
 active principle is vola- 
 tile and it loses its 
 strength unless care is 
 taken to keep it in air- 
 tight receptacles. This 
 powder is the insect 
 powder of the stores, 
 
 but in that form it is Fig. 22. The Red Spider 
 apt to be weak f rom greatly magnified. 
 
 adulteration, or age and exposure. This has 
 become almost the universal, as it is a most 
 safe and effective remedy against all house- 
 hold insect pests as flies, mosquitos, roaches, 
 bed-bugs, etc., all of which it 
 kills, if applied to them in a 
 closed room, by means of a 
 small bellows box or other- 
 wise. See Remedies 25, 36, 51. 
 Quadruped Foes to Insects. 
 111. Remedies 42 and 91 refer 
 to the usefulness of Swine as 
 devourers of insects. To the 
 Swine may be added the 
 Skunk and the Raccoon, 
 neither of which, however, 
 is to be recommended with- 
 out a qualifying clause. The 
 Skunk, while feeding almost 
 wholly on insects, is disposed 
 to attack the chicken roosts 
 and nests, 
 
 these and he is a harmless 
 and most helpful agent in 
 the insect war. Raccoons devour great num- 
 bers of grubs and other worms in the spring, 
 but they have a great fondness for the 
 
 Green Corn crop also later in the season. 
 
 Quassia Water. See Remedy 38. 
 
 Quince Curculio. See Curculio of the 
 Plum, etc. 
 
 Radish Fly and Maggot. See Maggots. 
 
 Raspberry Saw-fly. See Saw-flies. 
 
 Raspberry Slugs and Worms. See Slugs. 
 
 Red Spider. (Acarus tellarius.) This well 
 known minute insect pest is one that is 
 peculiar to dry and warm conditions of the 
 atmosphere. It is not only troublesome on 
 window and greenhouse plants, but often 
 in dry weather greatly so to garden plants 
 and trees. The insects, generally in large 
 numbers, attack plants when they are in a 
 weakened state, from want of sufficient 
 water or other causes, spinning webs over 
 the under side of the leaves, and sucking 
 out the sap. They are not spiders at all, as 
 may be seen by the greatly magnified repre- 
 
 Fig. 23. Plant inclined for Syringing the 
 shut him out from underside of the leaves. 
 
 Fig. 24. Cloth Shield having 
 draw string in edge; to be 
 placed over pot. 
 
 REMEDY 110. 
 
 TREATING POT PLANTS FOR RED SPIDER 
 
 sentation of one in Figure 22, but belong to 
 the family of mites. 
 Bern. 112. Water and Moisture. These pro- 
 
HOW TO DEAL WITH. 
 
 23 
 
 vided with persistence are complete specifics. 
 As the insects exist on the underside of the 
 leaves, the best way to destroy them is by re- 
 peated forcible syringing. In the case of pot 
 plants there is some danger of getting too much 
 water to the soil and roots, hence the methods of 
 preventing this suggested by Figures 23 and 24 are 
 useful. With garden plants there is little danger 
 of excessive moisture at the root from syringing. 
 
 .Rem. 113. Su 7 phur. Where plants are confined, 
 as in a greenhouse, the fumes of sulphur are also 
 employed as a remedy. This, however, must be 
 applied with caution, as excessive fumes will 
 also kill the plants. A safe course is to put 
 flowers of sulphur on tin or iron plates and set 
 in the sun near or under the plants. Applying a 
 wash of sulphur mixed with guano or lime and 
 water to the hot- water pipes is another common 
 mode of applying sulphur. 
 
 Road Dust. See Remedies 50, 108, 57, 131. 
 
 Root Aphis or Lice. These are species of 
 Aphides which, instead of feeding on the 
 leaves and shoots of plants, attack the roots, 
 hence are not to be directly treated by the 
 remedies for Aphis or Plant Lice, which see. 
 Undoubtedly the most important insect of 
 this class is the Phylloxera or Grape-root 
 Louse, which has in recent years spread 
 with such wonderful rapidity throughout 
 the vineyards of Europe. In France a prize 
 of $60,000 has been offered in vain by the 
 government for an effectual means for de- 
 stroying it. It was first detected in this 
 country about 1855, but happily is not seri- 
 ously injurious to native American Grapes. 
 The varieties of Root Lice we are more in- 
 terested in are those which attack the Apple, 
 Peach, and many other plants, including 
 those of the flower garden and greenhouse, 
 feeding underground on their roots. 
 
 Rem. 114. Salt Water, Soap Suds. Dr. Harris 
 has found that in the case of hardy plants water- 
 ing with salt water was useful in destroying root 
 lice, but tender herbaceous plants would suffer 
 from the same treatment; these, however, he 
 has assisted against the injuries of the pests by 
 free and frequent watering with soap suds. 
 
 Rem. 115. Bisulphide of Carbon. This material 
 was first brought into use in France. It was ap- 
 plied by puncturing the soil two or three feet 
 deep under a tree or vine, or, if these were large, 
 making holes four feet apart each way, into each 
 of which an ounce and a half or two ounces of 
 the bisulphide was poured. Very good results 
 attended its use in this manner. This drug, how- 
 ever, as Prof. Saunders suggests, has its draw- 
 backs, namely, it has an abominable smell, it is 
 explosive if brought near a light, its fumes are 
 heavy and poisonous and it is too expensive to 
 be employed on a large scale. 
 
 Rem. 116. Wood Ash Lye. Mr. Deming, of the 
 Missouri Horticultural Society, says he eradicates 
 the pest by sprinkling with wood-ash lye. 
 
 Rose Beetle, Chafer or Bug. (Macrodactylus 
 subspinosus.) This insect, shown in Fig. 25, 
 is one of the greatest pests known to the 
 gardener. It devours buds, blossoms, young 
 fruit, and leaves. Not only does the Rose 
 
 Fig. 25. Rose Beetle, 
 Chafer or Bug. Reme- 
 dies 117, 120. 
 
 Fig. 26. Rose Saic-fly (per- 
 fect insect of Rose-slug) 
 enlarged. Remedies 126 
 to 131. 
 
 suffer badly from its depredations, but en- 
 tire crops of Peaches, Grapes, Apples, Cher- 
 ries, vegetables, etc., have been blasted by 
 the same insect. They seem to have a spec- 
 ial fondness for the Ox-eye or Field Daisy; 
 it is a pity they do not confine their atten- 
 tions to that weed. They are of a grayish or 
 ashen yellow color. Their time of attack 
 continues for a month or more from the 
 blossoming of garden Roses. 
 
 Rem. 117. Jarring and Burning. Same as 59. 
 
 Rem. 118. Hand Picking and Burning. This 
 is the most common remedy for small bushes and 
 not so serious as it might seem. Gather them 
 early in the morning by picking or brushing into 
 
24 
 
 OUR INSECT FOES j 
 
 a vessel of water. Afterwards they should be 
 burned or destroyed with kerosene. 
 
 Rem. 119. Planting Clinton Grape-vines. It 
 has been found that this insect shows a decided 
 preference for the Clinton and its close allies, 
 over all other varieties of the vine. It is there- 
 fore suggested that in vineyards, as the beetles 
 must be gathered by jarring or hand picking, 
 this variety be planted for bringing the work of 
 gathering them within a smaller compass. 
 
 Rem. 120. Bisulphide of Carbon. It is stated 
 from a reliable source that small vials containing 
 a few drops each of this liquid tied among the 
 bushes or vines affected, at intervals of a foot or 
 two, the liquid being renewed occasionally, pro- 
 tected them entirely, while those beyond were 
 badly eaten by the beetles. 
 
 Rose Gall. See Gall Flies and their Grubs. 
 
 Rose-leaf Hopper. (Tettigonia rosce.) This 
 little white hopper, often mistaken for 
 Thrips, lives, it is believed, exclusively on 
 the leaves of Roses, and is very injurious to 
 them. Swarms of the perfect insect may be 
 found in 'various stages of growth in the 
 leaves throughout the summer, and even on 
 indoor plants. 
 
 Rem. 121. Whale Oil Soap. Same as Rem. 128. 
 
 Rem. 122. Nicotyl Vapor. Same as Remedies 
 10,65. 
 
 Rem. 123. Infusion of Tobacco. Pour boiling 
 water over cheap Tobacco or Tobacco stems so 
 as to cover completely and leave it standing over 
 night. Dilute for using with four or five times 
 the quantity of water and apply with a syringe 
 or force pump, taking care to distribute it also 
 over the underside of the leaves. The applica- 
 tion, like most other liquid applications to leaves 
 for the prevention of insect injuries, should be 
 made in the evening or early in the morning. It 
 should be first applied early in the season before 
 the injuries are very apparent and as soon as the 
 young larvse, looking like little white specks, can 
 be discovered upon the underside of the leaves. 
 As often as may be needed, in order to check the 
 attack, the showering with the infusion should 
 be repeated. 
 
 Rose Midges and their Maggots. One of the 
 most destructive pests that growers have to 
 deal with, especially in forcing the Rose, is 
 this minute Fly, which attacks the flower 
 buds and from which the Maggots, found 
 usually in large numbers under the outer 
 petals of the buds, come. These are not 
 more than 1-16 in. long, and seem to have a 
 strong desire to eat to the center of the bud 
 as quickly as possible. 
 
 Rem. 124. Fumigation with Tobacco. For 
 Roses under glass the best remedy is to fumigate 
 for 6 or 8 evenings very strongly with tobacco in 
 the usual way, so as to effectually kill the fly, 
 and cut off all the buds and burn them. Continue 
 this treatment for 3 or 4 weeks. If the Roses 
 should be outside it is more difficult to get rid of 
 this pest. 
 
 Rem. 125. Slug Shot for Outdoor Roses. Re- 
 peated applications of Slug Shot is a great help, 
 but the crop of flowers that are affected must be 
 cut off and burned, whether outdoor or in. A 
 good plan is to go carefully over every plant and 
 take off every flower and burn them, then apply 
 Slug Shot. In every case it is a most trouble- 
 some pest to get rid off, but by persistent effort 
 it can be done. 
 
 Rose Slug and Rose Saw-fly. (Selandria 
 rosce.) These pernicious vermin are known 
 to all Rose growers. The Rose Saw-fly, 
 shown greatly enlarged in Fig. 26, is a shiny 
 black insect which appears in the latter 
 part of May and up to about June 15th, and 
 also again in August, the female laying its 
 eggs in incisions made with its saw obliquely 
 into the skin of the leaf. The young, which 
 appear in from ten to fifteen days, are the 
 greenish almost transparent Slugs that are 
 frequently met in such great numbers feed- 
 ing on Rose bushes until the whole foliage 
 looks as if scorched by fire. 
 
 Rem. 126. Tobacco. Same as 65. 
 
 Rem. 127. Hellebore, Dry. Promptly dust the 
 powdered drug lightly over the affected bushes 
 by the use of a tin can with a piece of muslin tied 
 
HOW TO DEAL WITH. 
 
 25 
 
 over the end; the foliage should be moist at the 
 time. Professor Lintner suggests that before 
 using Hellebore its strength should be tested by 
 applying a small pinch to the nostrils. If it fails 
 to produce a tingling sensation it should be re- 
 jected as comparatively worthless. 
 
 Bern. 128. Whale Oil or Other Soap Suds. 
 Whale oil soap dissolved in water in the propor- 
 tion of two pounds of the former to fifteen gal- 
 lons of water, adding also a double handful of 
 salt, and with this wetting the foliage affected. 
 Ordinary soap used instead of the other makes 
 nearly as good a remedy. 
 
 Bern. 129. Paris Green Solution. Same as 15. 
 
 Bern. 130. Kerosene Emulsion. Same as 6. 
 
 Bern. 131 . Dust. Dry air-slaked lime, plaster of 
 Paris, wood ashes, or even road dust, if regularly 
 and repeatedly applied, will destroy the slugs. 
 
 Salt Water. See Remedy 114. 
 
 Saw-flies and their Larva. There are 
 numerous species of Saw Flies, and which, 
 both in their perfect state as flies and in the 
 larva state as slugs, live almost entirely on 
 vegetable food. (See Rose Slug and Rose 
 Saw-fly, Cherry and Pear Slug.) The 
 name of the class is derived from an in- 
 geniously contrived saw or saws with which 
 the female is provided and with which she 
 saws slits in the stems and leaves of plants, 
 wherein the eggs are dropped and hatched. 
 
 Bern. 132. Hellebore, Dry and Liquid. Same as 
 Remedies 52, 63, 127. 
 
 Skunks. See Quadruped Foes. 
 
 Slug Shot. See Remedies 109, 125. 
 
 Snails. These are often bothersome both 
 to the indoor and outdoor gardener, while 
 sometimes they prove to be terribly destruc- 
 tive. What makes the matter of their 
 attacks worse is that they do their work 
 under the cover of night, hence much mis- 
 chief is often done before the real cause is 
 understood. 
 
 Bern. 133. A Search at Night. A night search 
 with the light of a lantern after a shower of rain, 
 
 or in the greenhouse any night, will afford the 
 best opportunity for catching large numbers of 
 snails and slugs. They can then be put into a 
 strong salt bath, where they will speedily die, or, 
 the fowls in a confined run will be very gratef ul 
 if they are thrown to them in their prison. 
 
 Bern. 134. Trapping. The only sure method 
 of dealing effectually with these pests is to lay 
 traps. Pieces of Orange peel, if laid on the 
 ground, may be examined in the morning with a 
 fair chance of rewarding the searcher, for the 
 slug is so fond of Orange peel that instead of 
 returning to its home at daybreak it clings to the 
 peel, and may be found underneath gorged with 
 much over-feeding. Pieces of board placed 
 firmly in the ground are good traps, as these keep 
 the soil moist and slugs and snails love moisture 
 and take refuge under them. 
 
 Bern. 135. Paraffin Oil Solution. Apply a weak 
 solution of Paraffin oil and water,— about one 
 wine-glassful of oil to four gallons of water,— 
 and the solution applied through a syringe to the 
 plants; at the same time the surrounding surface 
 of the soil must be moistened. The time to apply 
 the solution is in the evening. 
 
 Soap Suds. See Remedies 6, 22, 114, 128. 
 
 Soluble Phenyle. See Remedy 100. 
 
 Soot Dusting. See Remedy 66. 
 
 Sphinges and their Larva. In the winged 
 state the true Sphinges are known by the 
 name of Humming-bird Moths, or Hawk 
 Moths, being large Moths that are familiar 
 by their flying during the twilight with 
 swiftness from flower to flower, and hover- 
 ing in the air like a Humming Bird. The 
 worm of one of the species is the large green 
 Caterpillar which infests the plants of the 
 Potato and Tomato. This insect is often 
 of a most repulsive size, being as thick as 
 the fore-finger, and three inches or more in 
 length. It is capable of doing great injury 
 to the plant. Other species of these worms, 
 varying somewhat in size and form, trouble 
 Grape-vines and various other plants and 
 trees. 
 
26 
 
 OUR INSECT FOES; 
 
 Rem. 136. Picking with Tweezers. This ap- 
 pears to be the only remedy. A pair of tweezers 
 easily made by anyone out of a piece of band 
 iron is shown in the accompanying engraving. 
 The worms may be fed to swine or be killed with 
 kerosene. 
 
 Squash Vine Borers. (Melitia curcubitce 
 Harris.) This worm, which seems to be on 
 the increase and in some seasons is very bad, 
 
 Fig. 27. Hand Tweezers for gathering repulsive insects. 
 Made of ordinary band iron. Remedies 136, 142. 
 
 works in the vine mostly near the root, often 
 causing the plant, after it is nearly grown 
 and set with fruit, to suddenly wither and 
 die. Upwards of a hundred Borers have 
 been taken from a single vine. 
 
 Bern. 137. Coal Tar. Placing Corn cobs dipped 
 in coal tar among the plants about the first of 
 July is known to greatly lessen the attacks by 
 borers. 
 
 Bern. 138. Cutting Oat. This, on a small scale, 
 is a successful remedy. In practice one may 
 soon become quite expert in discovering the lo- 
 cation of the borers and digging them out with 
 a knife point. 
 
 Bern. 139. Layering. A Mr. Milton, in the 
 Ohio Farmer, says that the best remedy he has 
 f ound for this pest is to go through the patch 
 with a hoe when the vines have attained a length 
 of two or three feet and throw a large hoef ul of 
 earth on the first or second joint from the hill. 
 The vine will form new roots from this joint, 
 which will enable it to perfect its fruit should 
 the borer kill the old root. 
 
 Squash Bug, Black. (Anasa tristisde Gecr.) 
 About the last of June throughout the 
 North these troublesome bugs appear on 
 Squash-vines and lay their patches of eggs, 
 
 which soon develop into troublesome broods. 
 A most striking characteristic of the insect 
 is its offensive odor when handled or crushed. 
 As the eggs are not all laid at one time, the 
 young appear in successive broods. 
 
 Rem. 140. Plaster axel Kerosene. Same as 57. 
 
 Rem. 141. Trapping. By laying shingles 
 about the hills the bugs, after feeding in the 
 night, may be found collected on the underside of 
 such. Proceeding to the patch early in the morn- 
 ing with a pail containing some kerosene, the 
 shingles should be gently raised and the insects 
 jarred or brushed into the kerosene, returning 
 the shingles again for successive catches later. 
 
 Rem. 142. Picking with Tweezers. Same as 
 Remedy 136. 
 
 Strawherry Worm. Apply Remedy 52. 
 
 Strawberry-Crown Borer. This is an insect 
 first described by Prof. Riley in 1871, and 
 which is not much known outside of the 
 Mississippi Valley. It bores down through 
 the crown of the Strawberry plant into the 
 pith. We have heard of no effective remedy. 
 The plants that are injured should certainly 
 be removed and burned. 
 
 Sugar Maple Borer. Of late years this in- 
 sect has become comparatively abundant as 
 a destroyer of highly valued Maples. Its 
 attack is usually made on perfectly healthy 
 trees. In its simplest form it reveals itself 
 by the bark parting longitudinally and 
 breaking away, disclosing a narrow strip 
 of the wood some five or six inches in 
 length. On the surface of the wood can be 
 seen the furrow of the grub, increasing in 
 its dimensions as it descends and at the 
 lower end entering into the trunk of the 
 tree, or more often winds horizontally about 
 half way around the trunk before entering. 
 With numerous borers at work the circula- 
 tion of the tree is cut off and it dies. 
 
 Rem. 143. Killing Young Larva.— Probing. 
 Professor Lintner is of the opinion that the best 
 method of dealing with this pernicious borer 
 
HOW TO DEAL WITH. 
 
 27 
 
 would be to watch for the commencement of the 
 operations and kill the young larva?. The eggs 
 are laid in July and August. It is said that the 
 place where the egg has been deposited upon the 
 bark of the trunk may be detected "by a rusty 
 discoloration of the bark about the size of a cent; 
 and especially by the frass or castings which, to 
 the length of an inch or more, are attached like 
 a broken corkscrew to the bark." The larvae 
 upon hatching burrow upward, remaining in the 
 bark until the following spring, when they bur- 
 row into the solid wood. At this season of the 
 year [October] the larva? may be found beneath 
 or not far from these discolored spots of egg de- 
 posits. If by cutting into these the burrow is 
 found to have extended too far to follow it with 
 the knife without injury to the tree, a flexible 
 wire may be used as a probe for reaching and 
 destroying it, as is done for the notorious Apple- 
 tree borer, Saperda Candida Fabr. 
 
 Sulphur. See Remedy 113. 
 
 Sulphuric Acid Water. (144.) This made 
 in the proportion of one part of the acid to 
 fifty parts of water is an effective and safe 
 insecticide to be used on hardy plants. 
 
 Swine. See Quadruped Foes to Insects. 
 
 Thousand-Legged Worms. These are often 
 confused with the Wire Worms, (which see) 
 and from which they differ considerably. 
 They live on Potatoes, Radishes, Carrots, 
 and decaying vegetables, and have also been 
 accused of destroying the plants of Cucum- 
 bers, Strawberries, etc. 
 
 Rem. 145. Gas Lime. Same as Remedy 49. 
 
 Rem. 146. Trapping and Scalding. By laying 
 boards about the garden in the evening they will 
 accumulate under these in numbers, and in the 
 morning can be collected and scalded. 
 
 Thrips. Minute insects varying in size 
 from that hardly perceptible to the naked 
 eye to the size of a Plant Louse, and varying 
 in color from whitish yellow to dark brown. 
 It is an active, jumping insect, and when 
 once it gets a foothold is very destructive. 
 As it luxuriates in close, shady places it is 
 
 generally found where plants are unduly 
 crowded and neglected as to ventilation and 
 syringing. (See Grape Leaf Hopper.) 
 Rem. 147. Nicotyl. Same as No. 10, 65. 
 
 Rem. 148. Fumigation with Tobacco. Same 
 as Remedy 9. 
 
 Rem. 149. Fir Tree Oil. Same as Remedy 24. 
 
 Tent-Caterpillar on Apple. Rem. (150.) Hand 
 Picking the Eggs. The eggs of these Caterpillars 
 appear in the shape of rings on the small twigs, 
 
 See Remedies 8, 9, 10, 
 
 Fig. 28. Thrip very much enlarged. 
 
 and are coated with a varnish-like substance. A 
 sharp eye run over the branches in the winter 
 or early spring when bare of foliage will show 
 them, and then they should be removed and 
 burned. 
 
 Rem . 151. Gathering the Webs. With a forked 
 stick the webs may readily be gathered in the 
 spring, when they are small, by twisting them on 
 the stick. 
 
 Rem. 152. Torch Remedy. Same as Remedies 
 7, 79, 158. 
 
 Tobacco Insecticide. 
 123, 124, and Nicotyl. 
 
 Tobacco Worm. See Sphinges. 
 
 Tomato Worm. See Sphinges. 
 
 Torch Remedy. See Remedies 7, 79, 155. 
 
 Trapping Insects. See Remedies 134, 146. 
 
 Turpentine. See Remedy 101. 
 
 Weevil. See Curculio. 
 
 Web Worm,Fall. (Hyphantria cunea.) This 
 insect is attracting increasing attention by 
 its great injury in defoliating both fruit and 
 shade trees, shrubs, etc., in many instances 
 not a vestige of foliage remaining. Its name 
 indicates the season when its webs are most 
 
28 
 
 OUR INSECT FOES; 
 
 numerous. Not only do they leave signs of 
 their presence in the denuded trees, but such 
 are also disfigured by old and new webs 
 made by the Caterpillars, in which bits of 
 leaves and leaf stems, as well as the dried 
 frass has collected, producing a very dis- 
 agreeable sight. 
 
 .Rem. 153. Arsenical Poisons. Same as Rem. 43. 
 
 Rem. 154. Pruning and Burning. On the first 
 appearance of the webs they should be looked 
 
 tumm 
 
 Fig. 30. Fall Web Worm, the dark form, there being 
 also a light one. Remedies 158, 155. 
 
 for with care and should be cut off or burned off, 
 and if cut off should be burned at once. 
 
 Rem. 155. Torch Remedy. A little thorough 
 work with some simple torch at the right time 
 will in nearly every case obviate the necessity of 
 any other treatment later. A campaign 
 torch mounted on a long pole is one of the best 
 implements for the purpose. The best substitute 
 for this is perhaps a piece of porous brick pre- 
 pared as suggested by Mayor Key, of Washing- 
 ton. Take a piece of soft brick, commonly 
 termed salmon brick, trim it to an egg shape; 
 then take two soft wires, cross them over this 
 brick, wrapping them together around the oppo- 
 site side so as to firmly secure it; now tie this end 
 to a long stick, such as the boys get at the plan- 
 ing mills, by wrapping around it; then soak the 
 brick in coal-oil, light it with a match, and you 
 are armed with the cheapest weapon known to 
 science. Holding this brick torch under the nests 
 will precipitate all the worms on one or two trees 
 at least from one soaking of the brick, and it can 
 be repeated as often as necessary. 
 
 Whale Oil Soap. See Remedies 6, 105, 114. 
 
 Whiskey. See Remedy 23. 
 
 Wire Worms. These are the hard, flatfish, 
 smooth -skinned, mostly light-colored, larva 
 of the Elaf ers or Snapping Beetle, but the 
 name Wire Worm is often wrongfully ap- 
 plied to the dark-colored, cylindrical Thous- 
 and-legged Worm, (which see). They feed 
 on roots of herbaceous plants, and on Po- 
 tatoes, Carrots, etc., and are often very in- 
 jurious. In the Beetle state they devour 
 flowers and the tender leaves of plants. 
 
 Rem. 156. Batting. This method consists in 
 burying sliced Pototoes or other vegetables be- 
 neath the ground in gardens, upon the end of a 
 stick for convenience of examination. The slices 
 should be examined every morning and the in- 
 sects collected and destroyed. 
 
 Woolly Aphis. These are not true Aphis 
 or plant lice, but are known as Schizoneura 
 larigera. There are two forms of the insect, 
 one being usually found on the limbs and 
 trunk of young trees in masses of a white, 
 woolly substance, the other attacking the 
 
 Fig. 29. The Woolly Aphis. A, root affected by the Aphis; 
 b, the Aphis greatly enlarged; c, the Fly greatly 
 enlarged. Remedies 157, 158. 
 
 roots, giving them a knotty appearance, as 
 at a in the annexed engraving. At b in the 
 same engraving is shown a greatly enlarged 
 representation of the young insect, with the 
 natural size indicated, and c is the same of 
 the insect in its fly state. The eggs are laid 
 in autumn on the bark and remain in this 
 condition through the winter. Young nur- 
 sery trees are often infested with this insect. 
 
HOW TO IDEAL WITH. 
 
 29 
 
 Rem. 157. Hot Water for the Root Form. Mr. 
 Saunders, in his work on Insects Injurious to 
 Fruits, observes that the most successful means 
 yet devised for destroying these root-lice, is the 
 use of scalding- hot water, freely poured around 
 the roots of the tree. If the trees are remaining 
 in the soil, the roots may be laid bare, and the 
 water used nearly boiling, without injury; but 
 where they have been taken up for the purpose 
 of transplanting, and are to be dipped in the hot 
 water, the temperature should not exceed 150° 
 Fahr.,— under these circumstances, from 120° to 
 150° would suffice for the purpose. A mulch 
 placed around the trees for some time previous 
 to treatment has been found useful in bringing 
 the lice to the surface, where they can be more 
 readily reached by the hot water. 
 
 Rem. 158. Kerosene Emulsion. Same as Rem- 
 edies 6, 57. Prof. Forbes has recommended that 
 
 the roots of infested nursery trees be " puddled " 
 with the kerosene emulsion before sending out, 
 and that if the lice are seen upon the trunks, 
 these be also treated with the emulsion, applying 
 with a brush, sponge or cloth. 
 
 Worms in Pots. Sometimes a little white 
 worm, entirely distinct from the Earth or 
 Angle Worm elsewhere referred to, proves 
 troublesome in plant pots. The following 
 remedies may be counted upon as being 
 effective in their destruction. 
 
 Rem. 159. Carbolic Acid Solution. Add one 
 teaspoonf ul of carbolic acid to one quart of water 
 and with this water the plants. 
 
 Rem. 160. Mustard Water. Stir a tablespoon- 
 f ul of sharp Mustard in a gallon of water, repeat- 
 ing the stirring at intervals for a day, then soak 
 the soil with the water. 
 
 SOME INTERESTING NOTES ON INSECTS 
 
 AND- 
 
 INSECT COLLECTING. 
 
 THE word insect, which was derived from the Latin, means cut or 
 notched, referring to the characteristic of this group of creatures 
 found in the cross-lines or incisions that mark the body. Between these 
 cross-lines are the segments or rings, consisting of numerous jointed 
 pieces, more or less movable on each other. 
 
 Organism. Insects, according to Dr. Har- 
 ris in his standard treatise on this subject, 
 have a very small brain, and, instead of a 
 spinal marrow, a kind of knotted cord, ex- 
 tending from the brain to the hinder ex- 
 tremity ; and numerous small whitish 
 threads, which are the nerves, spread from 
 the brain and knots in various directions. 
 
 Two long air-pipes, within their bodies, to- 
 gether with an immense number of smaller 
 pipes, supply the want of lungs, and carry 
 the air to every part. 
 
 Insects do not breathe through their 
 mouths, but through little holes, called 
 spiracles, generally nine in number, along 
 each side of the body. Some, however, have 
 
30 
 
 OUR INSECT FOES; 
 
 the breathing-holes placed in the hinder ex- 
 tremity, and a few young water-insects 
 breathe by means of gills. 
 
 The heart is a long tube, divided into sev- 
 eral chambers, lying under the skin of the 
 back, having little holes on each side for the 
 admission of the juices of the body, which 
 are prevented from escaping again by valves 
 or clappers, formed to close the holes 
 within. The blood, which is a colorless or 
 yellow fluid, does not circulate in proper ar- 
 teries and veins ; but is driven from the fore 
 part of the heart into the head, and thence 
 escapes into the body, where it is mingled 
 with the nutritive juices that filter through 
 the sides of the intestines, and the mingled 
 fluid penetrates the crevices among the flesh 
 and other internal parts, flowing along the 
 sides of the air-pipes, whereby it receives 
 from the air that influence which renders it 
 more fitted to nourish the frame and better 
 maintain life. 
 
 In winged or adult insects, two of the 
 transverse incisions with which they are 
 marked are deeper than the rest, so that the 
 body seems to consist of three principal por- 
 tions, the first whereof is the head, the sec- 
 ond or middle portion the thorax, or chest, 
 and the third or hindmost the abdomen, or 
 hind-body. 
 
 The eyes of adult insects, though appar- 
 ently two in number, are compound, each 
 consisting of a great number of single eyes 
 closely united together, and incapable of 
 being rolled in their sockets. Such also are 
 the eyes of the larvae, and of the active 
 pupae of those insects that undergo an im- 
 perfect transformation. Moreover, many 
 winged insects have one, two or three little 
 single eyes, placed near each other on the 
 crown of the head, and called ocelli, or eye- 
 lets. The eyes of grubs, caterpillars, and of 
 other completely transforming larvae, are 
 not compound, but consist of five or six 
 eyelets clustered together, without touch- 
 
 ing, on each side of the head ; some, how- 
 ever, such as maggots, are totally blind. 
 
 Near to the eyes are two jointed members, 
 named antennae,, corresponding, for the 
 most part, in situation, with the ears of 
 other animals, and supposed to be connected 
 with the sense of hearing, of touch, or of 
 both united. The antennae are very short 
 in larvae, and of various sizes and forms in 
 other insects. 
 
 The mouth of some insects is made for 
 biting or chewing, that of others for taking 
 the food only by suction. 
 
 Reproduction. Insects, contrary to the 
 supposition of some, are never spontaneously 
 generated from putrid animals or vegetable 
 matter, but are produced from eggs. A 
 few, such as some plant-lice, do not lay 
 their eggs, but retain them within their 
 bodies till the young are ready to escape. 
 Others invariably lay their eggs where 
 their young; as soon as they are hatched, 
 will find a plentiful supply of food immedi- 
 ately within their reach. 
 
 Change or Transformation. There are 
 three periods in the life of an insect, more 
 or less distinctly marked by corresponding 
 changes in the form, powers and habit. 
 
 First or Infant Period. In the first, or 
 period of infancy, an insect is technically 
 called a larva, a word signifying a mask, 
 because therein its future form is more or 
 less masked or concealed. This name is 
 not only applied to grubs, caterpillars, and 
 maggots, and to other insects that undergo 
 a complete transformation, but also to 
 young and wingless grasshoppers and bugs, 
 and indeed to all young insects before the 
 wings begin to appear. In this first period, 
 which is generally much the longest, insects 
 are always wingless, pass most of their time 
 in eating, grow rapidly, and usually cast off 
 their skins repeatedly. 
 
 The second period — wherein those insects 
 that undergo a partial transformation re- 
 
HOW TO DEAL WITH. 
 
 31 
 
 tain their activity and their appetite for 
 food, continue to grow, and acquire the ru- 
 diments of wings, while others, at this age, 
 entirely lose their larva form, take no food, 
 and remain at rest in a deathlike sleep — is 
 called the pupa state. The pupae from 
 caterpillars, however, are more commonly 
 called chrysalids, because some of them, as 
 the name implies, are gilt or adorned with 
 golden spots ; and grubs, after their first 
 transformation, are often named nymphs, 
 for what reason does not appear. 
 
 Adult Period. At the end of the second 
 period, insects again shed their skins and 
 come forth fully grown, and (with few ex- 
 ceptions) provided with wings. Thus they 
 enter upon their last, or adult state, where- 
 in they no longer increase in size, and dur- 
 ing which they provide for a continuation of 
 their kind. This period usually lasts only a 
 short time, for most insects die immediately 
 after their eggs are laid, bees, wasps and 
 ants affording some familiar exceptions. 
 
 Classification. To facilitate the study 
 of the myriads of insects in existence, some 
 kind of a classification was found neces- 
 sary, and that referred to below and relating 
 to the four great divisions or orders is the 
 one very generally adopted by naturalists. 
 The basis of this classification is founded 
 upon the structure of the mouth in the 
 adult state, the number and nature of the 
 wings, and the transformations. 
 
 1. Coleoptera (embracing the Beetles). 
 Adults with jaws, two thick wing-covers meeting 
 in a straight line on the top of the back, and two 
 filmy wings, which are folded transversely. 
 Transformation complete. Larv^, called grubs, 
 generally provided with six true legs, and some- 
 times also with a terminal prop-leg ; more rarely 
 without legs. Pupa with the wings and the legs 
 distinct and unconfined. 
 
 2. Orthoptera (Cockroaches, Crickets, Grass- 
 hoppers, &c.) Adults with jaws, two rather 
 thick and opaque upper wings, overlapping a lit- 
 tle on the back, and two larger, thin wmgs, 
 
 which are folded in plaits like a fan. Tra)isf<,r- 
 mation partial. Larvae and Pup^e active, but 
 wanting wings. 
 
 3. Hemiptera (Bugs, Locusts, Plant-lice, &c.) 
 Adults with a horny beak for suction, four 
 wings, whereof the uppermost are generally 
 thick at the base, with thinner extremities, 
 which lie flat, and cross each other on the top of 
 the back, or are of uniform thickness through- 
 out, and slope at the sides like a roof. Transfor- 
 mation partial. Larvae and Pup^e nearly like 
 the adult insect, but wanting wings. 
 
 4. Neuroptera (Dragon-flies, Lace-win {ted 
 flies, May-flies^ Ant-lion, Day-fly, White Ants, 
 &c). Adults with jaws, four netted wings, of 
 which the hinder ones are the largest, and no 
 sting or piercer. Transformation complete, or 
 partial. Larva and Pupa various. 
 
 5. Lepidoptera (Butterflies and Moths). 
 Adults with spiral sucking-tube; wings four, 
 covered with branny scales. Transformation 
 complete. The Larvae are caterpiDars, and have 
 six true legs, and from four to ten fleshy prop- 
 legs. Pupa with the cases of the wings and of 
 the legs indistinct, and soldered to the breast. 
 
 6. Hymenoptera (Saw-flies, Ants, Wasps, 
 Bees, &c.) Adults with jaws, four veined wings, 
 in most species the hinder pair being the small- 
 est, and a piercer or sling at the extremity of the 
 abdomen. Transformation complete. Larvje 
 mostly maggot-like, or slug-like ; of some, cater- 
 pillar-like. Pup^e with the legs and wings un- 
 confined. 
 
 7. Diptera (Mosquitoes, Gnats, Flies, &c.) 
 Adults with a horny or fleshy proboscis, two 
 wings only, and two knobbed threads, called 
 balancers or poisers, behind the wings. Trans- 
 formation complete. The Larvae are maggots, 
 without feet, and with the breathing-holes gen- 
 erally in the hinder extremity of the body. 
 Pup^-e mostly encased in the dried skin of the 
 larva?, sometimes, however, naked, in which case 
 the wings and the legs are visible, and are found 
 to be more or less free and unconfined. 
 
 Insect Collecting. Few occupations are 
 more pleasant and instructive, especially to 
 the cultivators of plants and trees, than 
 the making of a collection of insects. The 
 first thing needed for the business is a net 
 
32 
 
 OUR INSECT FOES; 
 
 made of mosquito netting in the form of a 
 short bag, and which must be attached at its 
 edges to a ring (say of wire, or a Willow 
 twig) to be about twelve inches in diameter, 
 and this to a short handle. A butterfly or 
 moth caught and you give the net a twist 
 so that the insect cannot fly away. 
 
 To catch moths, which fly mainly at night, 
 set a little lantern out-of-doors near a cup of 
 cheap, strong-smelling molasses, and with 
 net in hand capture them as they appear 
 drawn to the sweets. Collect also by put- 
 ting caterpillars and the leaves on which 
 you find them into a box, with netting top, 
 and letting them spin cocoons, or grow hard 
 and dry. Cocoons or chrysalids found on 
 bushes, fences etc., may similarly be boxed. 
 
 To Kill the Insects. Provide three bot- 
 tles of different sizes, into each of which 
 place some cyanide of potassium for poison- 
 ing the insects by placing them in the bot- 
 tles. Attach a small lump of the cyanide to 
 each bottle bottom by pouring over it a 
 mixture of plaster of Paris and water 
 to harden and hold it fast. The bottles 
 should be large mouthed and have ground 
 glass stoppers; any druggist can furnish 
 such. Another excellent way of killing is 
 to have a small vial of chloroform or ether, 
 if of which a small drop is applied to the 
 head of an insect it will succumb at once. 
 
 Collecting Box. Such a one should be 
 provided in which to pin the insects after 
 they have been caught and killed. If possi- 
 ble a thin sheet of cork, or even sliced bottle 
 corks, should be glued to the bottom to hold 
 the pins. So-called entomologist's pins are 
 to be preferred to ordinary pins. 
 
 Labeling. As the insects are put into the 
 case they should be numbered by writing on 
 a round piece of paper that is placed on the 
 pin which is thrust through the insect. Then 
 catalogue the numbers of the insects with 
 the name of each, location and date of col- 
 lecting and any oth er remarks. 
 
 Most insects should at all stages be pinned 
 through the middle of thorax (the part back 
 of the head); hard-shelled beetles through 
 the middle of the right wing. 
 
 Preparation. To properly get butterflies 
 in shape a pressing board is necessary. This 
 is made of two pieces of common siding 
 about a foot long, placing the thin edges 
 toward each other, leaving a space between 
 them wide enough to admit the body of the 
 insect, and nailing the pieces carefully to a 
 cross-piece at each end. Then with the in- 
 sects in this opening, spread the wings and 
 stick a needle in the board to hold each in 
 place until a small strip of card-board can 
 be placed over the wings on each side and 
 fastened down with pins. Care must be 
 taken not to rub the scales off the wings. 
 If the legs are cramped under the body, 
 draw them out and extend them as they ap- 
 pear when the insect is walking. By a little 
 practice you will be able to get them pre- 
 pared in good condition. The insects should 
 be left on the pressing board for one or two 
 weeks. 
 
 The Cabinet. For temporary use a good 
 insect case may be made from a confection- 
 ary or other light wooden box. Cover the 
 inside with strips of white paper and paste 
 strips of cork over the bottom, over which a 
 bottom of thin white pasteboard should be 
 placed. Pin the larger insects directly to 
 the bottom. Very small ones should be 
 glued to small, triangular pieces of card- 
 board, through one end of which the pins 
 are passed. Try and get the insects as near 
 the same height on the pins as possible. 
 
 For a permanent case it will be necessary 
 to employ a cabinet maker to make this, as 
 it must be nearly air-tight, in order to keep 
 live insects from destroying the specimens. 
 The best size is 14by 10 inches, and 3)4 inches 
 deep. If of this size, insects can be put in 
 at both the top and bottom, thus saving 
 room. 
 
A D VER TI SEMEN TS. 
 
 SPRAY YOUR TREES! 
 
 And You Will Reap the Fruits of Your Labor. 
 
 Our Double-Acting Spraying Pump 
 
 Is the only practical and effective means of rid- 
 ding trees of bugs, insects and worms, thus saving 
 the trees and the fruit. We make these Pumps 
 with brackets or feet that will fit an ordinary bar- 
 rel, capable of holding from 40 to 50 gallons of the 
 liquid to be used, according to the purpose in- 
 tended. With one of Goulds' Spray Pumps at- 
 tached, this barrel may be placed on a wagon or 
 stone boat, and a stream directed from either one 
 or both sides, as may be required, thus saving 
 nearly one-half of the labor usually consumed in 
 doing the same work. Spray immediately after 
 blossoming with a solution of Paris Green or 
 London Purple, and every Pump 
 
 Will Save Many Times its Cost, 
 
 SPRAY YOUR PLANTS! 
 
 
 
 AND YOU WILL INCREASE THEIR YIELD. 
 
 UR SPRAYING PUMP 
 
 WITH ARMS AND SPREADERS 
 
 Will spray eight rows of plants. Arranged upon 
 a two- wheeled cart (or part of a farm wagon,) the 
 driver operates the Pump with one hand and drives 
 with the other. These Pumps have been in suc- 
 cessful field operation for several years, and need 
 but to be seen and used to be appreciated. 
 
 Made of Brass and will not rust or 
 corrode by action of any liquids. 
 
 Address, 
 
 kS'« ; - ! *::li 
 
 *A 
 
 K! 
 
 /111- ' ■ T -' rf' '■ ' ^ 
 
 THE GOULDS MFG. CO., 
 
 17 to 27 FALLS STREET, 
 
 SENECA FALLS, N. Y. 
 
 OR 
 
 No. 60 BARCLAY STREET, 
 
 NEW YORK. 
 
II 
 
 A D VER TI SEMEN TS. 
 
 TO DESTROY THE CODLING MOTH 
 
 PROFESSOR A. J. COOK, of the Michigan Agricultural 
 Cc-nege, has conferred a lasting boon on American 
 f nut growers in his bulletin on the Codling Moth, or 
 nasty, fnthy Apple Worm. Those who have tried the 
 method he recommends declare it is invaluable; that 
 by it they are enabled to raise Apple crops with scarcely 
 a wormy one in the lot. It is simply to spray the trees 
 just at the close of blossoming time with London Pur- 
 ple or Paris Green, dissolved in water. These are prep- 
 arations containing arsenic. The spraying is done by 
 a force pump and barrel, which is hauled through the 
 orchard. An Iowa farmer named John Dixon discov- 
 ered the method many years ago. He used the white 
 arsenic. But this is more dangerous than the other 
 preparations, because it is so apt to be mistaken for 
 something else. Professor Cook gives illustrations and 
 description of the Codling Moth, as follows : 
 
 A Codling Moth and Worm. 
 
 The Moth, F and G, is accurately represented in the 
 picture in form and size. The main color is gray, 
 flecked with darker dots and bars, and with a charac- 
 teristic copper colored spot at the end of its front 
 wings. This spot will always enable one to distinguish 
 this Moth. Every Apple grower should put wormy 
 Apples in a small box and rear the Moths, that there 
 may be no doubt about the species. In May, about 
 two weeks after the blossoms appear, the female Moth 
 commences to lay eggs in the calyx of the blossom B. 
 These soon hatch, when the minute larva (shown full 
 grown, E) eats into the Apple and feeds upon the pulp 
 around the core, filiing the space with its fecal filth. 
 
 These spring Moths continue to come from cellar or 
 Apple house until July. I have taken such Moths July 
 4th on the screen of my cellar window. 
 
 The whitish larvae attain their full growth in about 
 four weeks. This period will be lengthened by cold 
 
 and shortened by heat. When mature the larva? leaves 
 the Apple, which may have fallen to the ground, and 
 seeks a secluded place in which to spin its cocoon (I) and 
 pupate. The pupa or chrysalis (D) is much like those of 
 other Moths. The pupa? of the June and July larvae 
 are found in the cocoons soon after the latter are 
 formed, while those of the autumn larvae do not pupate 
 till spring, but pass the winter as larvae in the cocoons. 
 The eggs of the second brood are laid in July, August 
 and September. The larvae feed in autumn and often 
 till in mid-winter, while as just stated, they do not 
 pupate till spring. 
 
 Professor Cook prefers London Purple to Paris Green, 
 because it is cheaper ar easier to mix in the water. 
 The mixture is as fol ^ws: I mix the powder one 
 pound to fifty gallons of water. It is best to wet the 
 powder thoroughly and make a paste before putting 
 into the vessel of water, that it may all mix, and not 
 form lumps. For a few trees we may Use a pail and the 
 Champion Force Pump, manufactured by the Field 
 Force Pump Company ,at Lockport, N. Y. For large 
 orchards, use " Field's Farmers' Force Pump," manu- 
 factured by the same company. Always keep the 
 liquid well stirred. One pail of the liquid will do for 
 the largest tree. A teaspoonf ul of the poison is enough 
 for a pailful of water. For a large orchard a common 
 barrel should be used, drawn in a wagon. I prefer to 
 have the barrel stand on end, with a close movable 
 float with two holes through it, one for the pipe or hose 
 from the pump, and the other for a stirrer. If very 
 large orchards are to be treated, a good force pump 
 should be fastened to the barrel. In Western New 
 York the handle of the pump is attached to the wagon 
 wheel, so that no hand power is required other than to 
 drive the team and manage the pipe that carries the 
 spray. This apparatus is also manufactured by the 
 Field Force Pump Company, at Lockport, N.Y. The 
 spray may be caused by a fine perforated nozzle, or a 
 ''BOSS " nozzle. The finer it is the less liquid will be 
 required. The important thing is to scatter the spray 
 on all the fruit, and get just as little on as possible. 
 The larva is killed by eating the poison, and we find 
 that the faintest trace suffices for the purpose. Again, 
 the posion should be applied early, by the time the 
 fruit is the size of a pea. I have found one such appli- 
 cation to work wonders. There is no doubt but that 
 the first application, followed by one or two others at 
 intervals of two or three weeks, would be more 
 thorough, yet I have found one application, made early, 
 so effective that I have wondered whether it was best 
 or necessary to make more than one application. I do 
 think, however, that it must be early. In May or June 
 the calyx of the Apple is up and so the poison is retained 
 sufficiently long to kill most all of the insects. 
 
 The terrible Canker Worm and the destructive Tent 
 Caterpillar, as well as the Plum Gouger, which makes 
 such sad havoc in Wisconsin with the Apple crop, will 
 very likely find their death warrants in this remedy. 
 
 The danger from this practice I have found to be 
 nothing at all. The microscope and chemical analysis 
 have both shown that all the poison has been removed 
 long before we wish to eat the fruit. The wind no less 
 than the rain helps to effect this removal, as I have 
 shown by putting the poison on plants sheltered from 
 all rains. Of course we should not turn stock into an 
 orchard till a heavy rain has washed the poison from 
 all herbage under the trees. 
 
A D VER TI SEMEN TS. 
 
 Ill 
 
 rnurr 
 
 i 
 
 BBIDOEPORT OHIO 
 
 Strawberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, 
 
 Grapes, Currants and Gooseberries. 
 
 My stock of plants is the finest in the coun- 
 SEND FORCATALOCUE. try, as I grow to retain vital points in fruit 
 
 and increase size and quality. My patrons say my plants are the finest 
 they have ever seen, and praise given by the work is better than self. 
 
 My Carmichael Seedling is the latest Strawberry on the market. This 
 year we picked the first June 15. May King and Crescent ripened first 
 May 20 to 25; it continues through Raspberry time, ripens with Sonhegan 
 and Doolittle. I quote from my commission merchant, the largest in 
 Wheeling, W. Va., the only man that has ever sold any of the fruit: 
 
 E. 
 
 W. REID: 
 
 Dear Sir — Your Carmichael Seedling is by long odds the most valuable Strawberry 
 now on the market. Coming as it does so very late (long after most every other variety is 
 gone), and being so large and a fine flavored berry, it not only commands the highest 
 price of any Strawberry coming to the market, (as you know by returns), but the demand 
 is always greater than the supply. Yours very respectfully, 
 
 W. O. M'CLUSKEY, 
 Fruit Commission Merchant, Wheeling, W. Va. 
 
 I always keep all new varieties of all kinds of fruit. Persons order- 
 ing direct from me, get fresh plants and true to name. I pack and 
 ship same day as plant is taken from the soil. All information given in 
 regard to new varieties. Send for catalogue and prices on large lots, 
 at low prices, fresh from the grower. 
 
 E. W. REID, Horticulturist, Bridgeport, O. 
 
IV 
 
 A D VER Tl SEMEN TS. 
 
 Reliable Agents started in Business without Capital. 
 
 Write for Particulars. My Agents are making $5, $10, $15, $20, $25 and $30 per day. 
 
 Force-Pump, Potato Bug Exterminator, and Veterinary Syringe Combined. 
 
 $12. CO worth of Machines (all polished brass) sent prepaid to any express station in the 
 United States and Canada for $5.50. 
 
 LEWIS'S COMBINATION FORCE-PUMP. 
 
 Makes three machines, as shown in cut- Made of Polished Urass. Parts interchange- 
 able. Each machine complete in itself. Just what is needed by every Farmer. Gar- 
 dener, Nurseryman, Florist, Stockman, &c. Another new improvement just added is 
 
 LEWIS'S PATENT SPRAY ATTACHMENT FOR FRUIT TREES. 
 
 Is the best arrangement for spraying Fruit Trees in the world. Can change from solid stream to spray 
 instantly, while pumping. It is the best, most powerful, easiest-working, and cheapest first-class Pump 
 in the world. Regular retail price, $6.00, Weight, 4% pounds; length, 32 inches. I also manu- 
 
 facture separate the 
 
 POTATO BUG EXTERMINATOR. 
 
 The machine, with spray, is shown at upper left-hand corner of cut. Price, post-paid, zinc, 
 $1.25; polished brass, $1.75. Over FIFTEEN THOUSAND sold in seven months. I 
 
 challenge the world for its equal. Can do from three to five acres per day. One pound of Paris Green 
 will give an acre three separate dressings. For Syringing Fruit Trees infested with insects of any 
 kind, it stands unrivaled. Send for Illustrated Catalogue. Price-List, and terms to Agents, etc. I give 
 the names and addresses of many of my agents who make from $10 to $30 in a single day; also a long 
 list of my customers, each of whom has bought from $50 to $2000 worth of these goods in from one to 
 three weeks' time. Farmers and canvassers can make from $10 to $20 per day. I give the largest 
 profits and furnish the fastest-selling article in the United States to-day. AGENTS WANTED EVERY- 
 WHERE. Goods guaranteed as represented or money refunded. 
 
 LEWIS & COWLES, Catskill, N. Y. 
 
 "We have examined and tested the above goods and fully endorse what Mr. Lewis says."— Prof. C. 
 V. Riley, U. S. Entomologist. Prof. Cook, Peter Henderson, and others, highly recommend them. 
 
ADVER TISEM EN TS. 
 
 Standard Rural Books published and for sale by the Popular Gardening 
 Publishing Co., Buffalo, N.Y., by mail post-paid. 
 
 Bailey's Field-Notes on Apple Culture. Useful and 
 thoroughly practical. Cloth, 12mo. - $0.75 
 
 Barry's Fruit Garden. A standard work on Fruits 
 and Fruit Trees, Invaluable to all Fruit grow- 
 ers. Illustrated. Cloth, 12 mo. - - - 2.00 
 
 Black's Cultivation of the Peach and the Pear on 
 the Delaware and Chesapeake Peninsula, 1.50 
 
 Brill's Farm Gardening and Seed Growing. Cloth, 1.00 
 
 Brill's Cauliflowers: How to Grow Them. Paper, .30 
 
 Chorlton's Grape-Grower's Guide, for each Depart- 
 ment of Hot-House, Cold Grapery, etc. Ills. .75 
 
 Cook's Bee-keeper's Guide, - - - 1.25 
 
 Downing's Fruits and Fruit Trees of America. The 
 Culture, Propagation and Management, in the 
 Garden and Orchard, of Fruit Trees Generally. 
 Nearly 400 outline Illustrations. 8vo. - 5.00 
 
 Ellwanger On the Rose, .... 1.05 
 
 Elliott's Hand-Book for Fruit Growers. .60 and 1.00 
 
 Every Women her own Flower Gardener. Cloth; 1.00 
 
 Fitz's Sweet Potato Culture. Cloth, 12mo. - .60 
 
 Fruit Pastes, Syrups and Preserves. By Shirley 
 Dare, .25 
 
 Fuller's Practical Forestry. On Propagation, Plant- 
 ing and Cultivation, with a description of all 
 the indigenous trees of the United States, 1.50 
 
 Fuller's Small Fruit Culturist. Rewritten, - 1.50 
 
 Fuller's Grape Culturist. Full directions for Propa 
 gation, Culture, etc. 105 engravings. 
 
 Fuller's Illustrated Strawberry Culturist. 
 
 1.50 
 .25 
 
 Fuller's Propagation of Plants. Describing Hybjid- 
 izing and Crossing, and many different morles 
 by which plants may be multiplied. Cloth, 1.50 
 Fulton'3 Peach Culture. In the Delaware region 1.50 
 Gray's How Plants Grow, ... - 1.25 
 
 Gray's How Plants Behave, ... .65 
 
 Gray's Manual of Botany and Lessons, - 4.00 
 
 Gray's Structural Botany, - - - 2.30 
 
 Green's Fish Hatching and Fish Catching. - 1.50 
 
 Gregory on Cabbages: How to Grow Them. Paper .30 
 Gregory on Onion Raising. Paper cover, - .30 
 
 Gregory on Squashes. Paper cover, - - .30 
 
 Gregory on Fertilizers. Paper cover, - - .40 
 
 Halliday's Azalea Culture, - - - 2.00 
 
 Halliday's Camellia Culture, - - - - 2.00 
 
 Harris' Talks on Manures. A series of practical 
 Talks on the whole subject of Manures and 
 Fertilizers. Cloth, 12mo. - - - 1.75 
 
 Harris's Gardening for Young and Old. A work 
 on Farm-Gardening, which means a better and 
 more profitable form of Agriculture, Cloth, 1.25 
 
 Henderson's Gardening for Profit. New Edition. 
 Enlarged. The standard work on Market and 
 Family Gardening; profusely illustrated. 2.00 
 
 Henderson's Gardening for Pleasure. Includes 
 Fruit, Vegetable, and Flower-Gardening, Green- 
 houses and Graperies, Window-Gardening, etc. 1.50 
 Henderson's Practical Floriculture. A very com- 
 plete treatise on the cultivation of flowers un- 
 der glass, for pleasure or as a matter of trade. 1.50 
 
 Henderson's Hand Book of Plants. A dictionary 
 of Useful and Ornamental Plants, with instruc- 
 tions on Propagation and Culture. Large 8vo. $3.00 
 Hoopes' Book of Evergreens. The standard work 
 
 on this subject. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. 3.00 
 
 Hough's Elements of Forestry, - - - 2.00 
 
 Husmann's American Grape-Growing and Wine- 
 Making. The author is a recognized authority, 1. 50 
 Johnson's How Crops Grow. A Treatise on the 
 
 Chemical Composition, and Life of the Plant. 2.00 
 Johnson's How Crops Feed on the Atmosphere and 
 
 the Soil, as related to Plants. - - - 2.00 
 
 Johnson's Gardener's Dictionary, - - - 3.00 
 
 Johnson's Winter Greeneries at Home. - 1.00 
 
 Leland's Farm Homes, Indoors and Outdoors. 1.50 
 Long's Home Florist. A Treatise on Flowers and 
 
 other plants, designed for the use of Amateurs, 1.25 
 Long's Ornamental Gardening for Americans. A 
 Treatise on Beautifying Homes, Rural Districts 
 and Cemeteries. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. 2.00 
 
 Oemler's Truck Farming at the South for North- 
 ern markets. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. - 1.50 
 Our Insect Foes; How to Deal With. 160 Remedies. .25 
 Packard's Half Hours with Insects. Cloth, 12mo. 2.50 
 Parsons on the Rose. Embracing Propagation, Cul- 
 ture and History. Enlarged edition. - 1.50 
 Popular Gardening and Fruit Growing. Vol. 1 and 
 2 unbound, each, $1.25; bound in cloth, each, 
 $1.75 ; the two vols, in one, $3.00 :in half sheep 
 
 $2.50 and 3.75 
 Purdy's Small Fruit Instructor, -25 
 
 Quinn's Pear Culture for Profit. Teaching how to 
 
 raise Pears intelligently. Illustrated. - 1.00 
 Quinn's Money in the Garden. Devoted to the 
 
 Kitchen, Market and Field Garden - 1.50 
 
 Reed's House Plans for Everybody. - 1.50 
 
 Register of Rural Affairs, 9 vols. Each, - - 1.50 
 
 Roe's Play and Profit in my Garden. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50 
 Roosevelt's Five Acres Too Much. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50 
 Root's A B C of Bee-Culture. Cloth. Large octavo, 1.25 
 Saunder's Insects Injurious to Fruit, - - 3.00 
 
 Scott and Morton's Soil of the Farm. Cloth, 12mo. 1.00 
 Stoddart's An Egg Farm. - - - - .50 
 
 Strong's Fruit Culture, .... 1.00 
 
 Thomas' American Fruit Culturist. Treating on the 
 Propagation and Culture of all fruits adapted to 
 the United States. 508 accurate figures. - 2.00 
 Thompson's. Fruit Culture under Glass, - - 3.75 
 
 Treat's Injurious Insects of the Farm and Garden. 
 
 New and Enlarged Edition. Fully Illustrated. 2.00 
 Warder's Hedges and Evergreens, - - 1.50 
 
 Waring's Draining for Profit and Health. A very 
 
 complete and practical treatise. Illustrated. 1.50 
 Webb's Cape Cod Cranberries. Paper, 12mo. - .40 
 White's Gardening for the South. An admirable 
 
 treatise on gardening in general. Illustrated. 2.00 
 White's Cranberry Culture. Illustrated. 1.25 
 
 Wood's Classbook of Botany, - - - 3.50 
 
 Wright's Practical Poultry Keeper. A guide on 
 
 poultry for domestic use, market,exhibition,etc. 2.00 
 Your Plants. In the House and in the Garden. Paper. .40 
 
VI 
 
 ADVER TI SEMEN TS. 
 
 AN INFALLIBLE INSECTICIDE 
 
 1880. 
 
 WITH A GOLDEN RECORD. 1888. 
 
 tgpOver 1000 tons of 
 it used in S years with 
 safety to Man, Beast and 
 Fowl. 
 
 flSpIts efficacy ^is con- 
 ceded by all who make 
 thorough tests. 
 
 Is an impalpable powder, a combination of insecticides, poisonous to insects preying upon vege- 
 tation, and withal an excellent fertilizer, affecting nearly all classes of insect life, so that they 
 either die, or leave for parts unknown. 
 
 It kills the Potato Bugs and gives a good crop of Potatoes. 
 
 It kills the Black Fleas on Cabbage, Turnips, Beets, Radishes, and Egg Plants. Apply by 
 du-ting over the plant. 
 
 It kills the Cahhage Worm and also the Currant and Gooseberry Worm. The Aphis or Green 
 Fly on Roses and other flowers. 
 
 Has prevented the ravages of the Curculio and Canker Worm on fruit trees ; has likewise been 
 used around Beans, Melons, Squash, &c. , to the detriment of the ravages of the Cut Worms. 
 
 Keeps the Striped Bugs from all Vine Crdps. 
 
 For full information and testimonials from all sections of the United States, send for pam- 
 phlet, "Hammond's Slug Shot and its Uses," to Fishkill-on-the-Hudson, N. Y. 
 
 Slug Shot is put up in tin canisters, 25 cents; also in five and ten-pound bags, and in flour 
 barrels loose, that contain 235 lbs. each. It is applied by duster or bellows. 
 
 SOLD BY THE SEEDSMEN OF AMERICA, 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. VI 
 
 TREES, SHRUBS, ROSES, 
 
 -AND. 
 
 AT LOW PRICES. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE FREE. 
 
 HOW TO GROW 
 
 TRAWBERRIE S 
 
 AND OTHER FRUITS. 
 
 A complete manual, telling how to prepare the ground, plant, prune, 
 cultivate, pick, and market. 
 
 It is sent for ten cents postage. 
 
 " E. D. Putney has a happy faculty of packing much useful information 
 in few words.' 1 — Editor Farm Journal. 
 
 Parties wishing to plant lawns, avenues and parks with ornamental 
 trees should correspond with us before placing their orders. 
 
 PUTNEY & WOODWARD, 
 
 BRENTWOOD, N. Y. 
 
VIII 
 
 A D VER TI SEMEN TS. 
 
 The Nixon Nozzle & Machine Go. 
 
 MANUFACTURE 
 
 SPRAYING MACHINES 
 
 For using INSECT POISONS on Fruit Trees, Berry 
 Bushes, Potatoes, Tobacco and all herbage. They are 
 the first practical method invented for applying 
 insecticides rapidly and cheaply enough to make 
 them a paying necessity to all growers. They are 
 as indispensable as the plow or mower. 
 
 The Field and Orchard Machine 
 
 is used in large orchards and Potato fields, and the 
 work done is incredible. HUMPHREY BROS., Wake- 
 man, Ohio, say they ''sprayed from 30 to 40 acres of 
 Potatoes in a day, and destroyed entirely the Potato 
 bug or beetle." 
 
 1 ,500 Apple or Orange Trees ™ Sprayed ? Day 
 
 OUR BARREL MACHINE CAN BE USED AS WELL, BUT UPON 
 
 A SMALLER SCALE. 
 
 FRANK P. SILL, of Westonville, Ohio, sprayed 440 large Apple trees with our 
 LITTLE GIANT in eight hours. 
 
 We make Machines for use on Lawns, in Gardens, Conserva- 
 tories, Greenhouses, Flowers and Shrubs, promoting growth, and 
 killing Insects from the Spray, from a Hand Machine to one 
 drawn by horses. 
 
 We Manufacture and Sell ivith our Machines 
 
 INSECT POISONS 
 
 With Full Directions for Use, 
 
 The Cultivating of Fruit Trees and Orchards, 
 and the Raising of Potatoes, may be made entirely 
 successful and largely profitable by using our 
 Machines and Poisons. Send for 
 descriptive Price-List. Address 
 
 NIXON NOZZLE & MACHINE CO., Dayton, O 
 
A RE YOU INTERESTED IN FRUITS, 
 
 FLOWERS, LAWNS, VEGETABLES, &c? 
 
 o«o 
 
 ^HEN you are interested in what a prom- 
 inent cultivator recently said of 
 Popular Gardening and Fruit Growing, 
 as follows : 
 
 " It is doing more than any other one 
 agency to popularize good methods of culture 
 in general gardening, and in leading to large 
 profits for market growers." 
 In style Popular Gardening and Fruit Growing is 
 exceptionally practical, terse and sprightly. It treats of the 
 things that cultivators like to know and which they find help- 
 ful in their work. It isprofusely illustrated with engravings of a practical 
 nature. Its contributors embrace America's most successful cultivators 
 of Fruits, Vegetables, Flowers, Trees, Plants, etc. 
 
 This paper must be seen to be appreciated,' and a specimen copy will 
 be mailed to any address on receipt of ten cents in stamps. Or better yet, 
 if $1.00 is sent it will pay for a year's subscription. 
 
 No one having an interest in gardening, even if it be but to the extent 
 of a few pot plants or a town lawn, or from these up to an extensive nursery, 
 market or fruit garden, should be without the monthly visits of this unique 
 journal. It solicits the further acquaintance of all friends of horticulture. 
 
 Popular Gardening and Fruit Growing, 
 
 BUFFALO, N. Y. 
 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
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