Book / 1^' .Wsy ( OPYRK.HT DliPOSlT HON. LYMAN J. GAr.E Scc'y of the Treasu NON. JOHN D. LONG Sec'y of the Navy HON. JAMES WILSON Sec'y of Agriculture HON. Wm. R. DAV Sec y of State PRESIDENT McKINLEY HON. JOHN W. GRIGGS Attorney-General HON. CHARLES EMORY SMITH Postmaster-General HON. RUSSELL A. ALGER Sec'y of 'War HON. CORNELIUS N. BLISS Sec'y of Interior BEAH ADMIHAL r.EORGn DrWFY CummanJlng A»k«tlc SquaJrun COMMODORE W. S. SCHLEY Ca*o>«n4in( Rylng Sqtudrao Squa4run CAPTAIN H. D. rVANS Of Ihc Balllethip l"wa CAPTAIN C. V. r.HlDLEY Of llie Cruller 01> mpU OUR WAR WITH SPAIN FOR CUBA'S FREEDOM. A THRILLING ACCOUNT OF THE LAND AND NAVAL OPERATIONS OF AMERICAN SOLDIERS AND SAILORS IN OUR WAR wrrn spatn. and the heroic struccles of CUBAN PATRIOTS AGAINST SPANISH TYRANNY. INCLUDING A DESCRIPTION AND HISTORY OF CUBA, SPAIN, PHIL- II'PINE ISLANDS, OUR ARMY AND NAVY, FIGHTING STRENGTH, COAST DEFENSES, AND OUR RELA- TIONS WITU OTHER NATIONS, ETC., ETC. ' — TRUMBULL WHITE, THE WELL KNOWN AND POPULAR AUTHOU, HISTORIAN AND WAR COKRESPONDKNT. ELABORATELY ILLUSTRATED WITH PHOTOGRAPHS AND DRAW- INGS OF BATTLES. ON SEA AND LAND, WAR SHIPS, ETC., FROM LIFE. MANUFACTURED AND SOLD BY MONARCH BOOK COMPANY. OhlCAGO, ILL. PHILADELPHIA, t^^ Copyrighted by K. T. BOLAND. 18V8. ( I>c5tcate& TO ®ur Hmerlcan IDoluntecr? PREFACE. InfoiTuation concerning- the island of Cuba has been of an exceed- ingly unsatisfactory- obaracter until the search-light of American inquiry was thrown upon it from the beginning of the war for Cuban liberty early in 1S95. Although our next-door neighbor to the south, with {i perfect winter climate and a host of interesting and picturesque attractions for travelers, tourists had been comparatively fe^v, measured by the numbers that might have been expected. All of the reasons for this were those which naturally followed the characteristic Spanish rule of the island. Publicity was not welcomed, inquiiy was not welcomed, travelers were not welcomed. The cities and the accommodations they offered were in many ways far behind those of like age and size in the other countries of the globe. Kailway construc- tion and the making of highways had lagged disgracefully, because the exorbitant taxes collected were looted by the officers of the govern- ment as their own six)ils. Xo other country so near to the highways of ocean commerce and so accessible from the United States was so little known, A few travelers had journeyed to Cuba and had written books descriptive of their experiences, which were x'ead with interest by those who had access to them. But these books were usually simply descrip- tive of the people, the manner of life, the scenery, and the things of surface interest. It is proverbial that Spanish rule conceals the re- sources of a country instead of exploiting them. The person of inquir- ing mind had no way in Cuba to obtain prompt information concerning the material facts of the island's wealth of resource, because the Spanish authorities themselves knew nothing about it. Spanish statistics are notoriously unreliable and incomplete. Xo census of Cuba worthy the name ever has been taken, and there are few schools and few sources of accux'ate information. With all this handicap it was a foregone conclusion that the casual traveler should confine him- self to the things that were visible and that were near to the usual paths of travelers- So until the beginning of the Cuban war for liberty no book could be obtained which told the things which one reallv cares 8 PREFACE. to know. Pii-tures(|U(' (lesn-iptions there were, more than one, of con- siderable interest, but the inforniallon was scattered. Demand always creates supply, even if matenal is scant. When the war be.iran. the i)eople of the Unitinl States wanted to know some- thin;; of the people who were stnvini,' for their freeilom, of their characteristics, their conditions and their personality. Moreover, it was an immediate necessity to know the «;eotain C.eneral Weyler. They have been the real historians of Cuba. It is to all of these sources and others that the information con- tained in the j>resent volunii- is owed. The writer takes ]deasure in acknowledging the courteous jiermission to use salient facts contained in some vohuues of merit publislied prior to this time. l?ut more tlian all the obligation is to the newspaper correspoiulents who worked with him in Cuba in the days when tlie war wa.s but an insurrection ami nflr-rward wlu-n the insurrection became our own war against Spain for the liberty of Oiba. They are the ones who have gathered the most exiiaustive information on the whcde subject of Cuban affaii-s. They have be«-n able by virtue of their intimate knowledge of Cuba and llie Cubans to be of invaluable assistance to the commanders of army ant! navy alike, not only in advice as to the forming of plans, but in executing them. One who has seen the things knows that to exag- PEEFACE. 9 gerate the horrors of Spanish cruelty and the oppression of Spanish rule in Cuba is an impossibility. No newspaper could have printed the i>lain truth of a score of shocking affairs, simply because the public prints are no place for the exploiting of such tales of vicious crime against humanity as have been pei'petrated. The most sensational tales have never reached the limits of the truth. It is hoped that the reader will find in this volume not only a com- prehensive current history of our war with Spain for Cuba's freedom, but also much of the other mattter that will be of interest and value in considering the future of the liberated island. Its histoiy, its people, its resources and other salient subjects are included, with cer-tain matter on Spain and her own affairs, with Puerto Kico and the Philippine islands, which chapters serve to make the volume a work for general reference and reading on the whole subject of the war. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Photograph Group — Prcsidcut McKinky and his Cabinet. Photograph Group — Dewey, Sampson, Evans, Schley, and Gridley. Clara Barton — Her work in a Cuban Hospital. United States Artillery going to the Front. Headquarters of Cuban Patriots — Key West. C'ul)an Soldiers and Recruiting OlHcer — C'ulia. Harbor of Havana, sliowing Forts, Sand Batteries and other (Juns. Tlu^ Battleship " Maine," previous to her destruction. General Fitzhugh Lee — Ex-Consul CJeneral to Havana. Fitzhugh Lee's departure from Havana prior to Declaration of War. Nelson A. Miles, (Jeneral Commanding the United States Army. United States Soldiers Marching to the Front. Captain Sigsbco of tlio ill-fated "Maine" — now Commaader of the Crui.ser St. Paul. (Jeneral Stewart 1j. Woodford — Lato U. S. Minister to Spain, (ieneral Maximo Gomez — Leader of the Insurgents of Cuha. General >L'iceo^of (Uil)a. Commodore Dewey's Victorious Battle witli tiie Spanisli Fleet. The United States Doul)le-Turreled Monitor "Terror." Farragut on board the " Hartford." Crossing a Pontoon Bridge at night. The Soulier's (Jood-by. Constructing Military Road through Swamp. Little King Alfonso of Spain. Royal Palace, Madrid, Spain. Sagasta — Premier of Spain. General Weyler — formerly Governor General of Cul)a. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. A Typical Spanish Maiden. Spanish Bull Fighter. A Beautiful Street of Grenada — Spain. Clara Barton — Photograph. Hotel Inglaterre and Central Park — Havana. The Prado — Havana's Famous Boulevard. Drinking from the Same Canteen. Camp Life — Culinary Department. Wreck of United States Battleship " Maine." Siege Gun. The Battle Flags of the Fourteenth Regiment — N. Y. Artillery. City of Havana and Harbor. Morro Castle and Fortress — Havana. United States Battleship " Iowa" — Speed Trial. Forward Deck of United States Battleship " Indiana." The United States Battleship "Indiana." United States Battleship " Massachusetts" — Heavy Sea. United States Battleship " Oregon." United States Cruiser " Boston." United States Cruiser " New York." United States Cruiser " Brooklyn." United States Cruiser "Columbia." United States Cruiser " Philadelphia." United States Cruiser " San Francisco " — Flag Disj^lay. United States Cruiser " Minneapolis." United States Cruiser "Atlanta." United States Cruiser " Chicago." United States Gunboat " Yorktown." United States Gunboat " Coucoixl." United States Gunboat "Nashville." United States Defense Boat " Katahdin." United States Torpedo Boat "Ericsson." United States Dispatch Boat " Dolphin." Queen Regent and Family of Spain. A Common Scene in Havana — Cuba. Battle Between Spaniards and Insurgents — Cuba. The Valley of Yumui'i — Cuba. Blanco — Governor-General of Cuba. A Street Scene Among the Poor — Cuba. TABLE OF CONTENTS. Chapter. Pape. I. A \\;ir n.i' l.ilirrlv and Hiiiiiaiiit.v 17 II. How ('((Iniiihiis Found the -rcarl of llii' Anlilk-s." H III. Spain's niatk Ilistoriral Ki-cord I't IV. l{iK'cant'crin<; in llif Spanish .Main •")"•• V. Coinnicrcial Dcvi'lopnicnt of Cuba •■•'^ \'l. I'.canlics of a Troi)ifai Island Til VII. W.'allli fr Natnn-'s Sloic in llic Forest and Fi.dds of ("iilia H4 \"in. Tlic Cnl.ans an'.• X. The Cities of Ciilia ltl."> XI. ^Inltei-injrs of Insinrertion 11-" .\ll. Oiill.icaK of llie Tell Years' War 1-0 .Xlll. .Massacre of the N'ir;rinins Ollireis and <"rew \S.\ .\l\'. Operations of ihe Tm ^■ears■ War K'.O .\ \'. The Peace of Zanjon, and Its N'iolalcd I'l((lj;es i:!:'. .\\l. I're]iaralions for .\nother Heliellion l.'.T .Wll. The Ciilian .Inula anil lis Work Ill Will. Key We^l and liie Cnhans i:)l .MX. .\nollier Slicdie for Freedom l.'.d X \. .lose .Marti, and Other Cnliau Heroes IC,:'. X.\l. Desjierate HatlleH with Ma<]iete and Kille Hi:* X .\ II. Filibusters from Floiida 171! X X 1 1 1. Weyler. the IJutcher \S2 .\.\'l\'. Cuba I'nder tlio Scourge ls!t XXV. Fit/hu^'h I to the Front l!ll X.WI. .\mericaiis in Sjianish I>iin;;eons 1!)0 XX\'II. Ma.eo Head bv Treacherv 204 Chapter. XXVIII. XXIX. XXX. XXXI. XXXII. XXXIII. XXXIV. XXXV. XXXVI. XXXVII. XXXVIII. XXXTX. XL. XLI. XLII. XLIII. XLIV. XLV. XLVI. XLVII. XLVIII. XLIX. L. , TABLE OF CUXTENTS. Page. Wejler's Recoucentration Policy and Its Ilonoiis -"T American Indignatiou Growing -1^ Outrages on Americans in Cuba 225 McKinlcy Succeeds Cleveland -''2 The Case of Evangelina Cisneros 2.'?S Work of Clara Barton and the Kcd ( 'ross 243 The Catastrophe to the Maine 250 Patience at the Vanishing I'oint 256 Events in the American Congress 200 President McKinley Acts 2(i4 Strength of the Opposing Squadron and Ariuies 271 Battleships and Troops Begin to Jlove 286 Diplomatic Relations Terminated 292 First Guns and First Prizes of the ^^'ar 297 Declaration of War. 303 Call for the National Guard, Our Citizen Soldiers 306 Blockade of Cuban Ports ,312 Spanish Dissensions at Home 317 The Philippines and Puerto Rico, Sjiain's Last Remaining Colonies 327 Progress of Hostilities 339 Sea Fight Off Manila — Americans \'ictorious 347 Hawaii, and Our Annexation Policy 361 Continued Success for American Soldiers and Sailors 369 NTRODUCTION. When, on tbo 22(1 day of April, 1S98, Michael Mallia, f^uii captain (if the Tuiti'd States cruiser Nashville, sent a shell across the hows of tiie Spauisli sliip Biiena Ventura, ho {jave the signal shot that ushered iu a war for libci-iy for the slaves of Spain. The world has never seen a contest like it. Nations have fou^lit for tt'rritoiy and for gtdd, but tliey have not foufiht for tiie happiness of others. Natious have resisted the encroachments of barbarism, but until the niueleenlh ceulury they have not fou-jlit to ujjroot barbarism and cast it out of its establislu'd phice. Nations have foujrht to iire- sene the integrity of their own emjiire, but they have not fouglit .a foreign foe to set otliers free. Men have gone on crusades to fight for holy tombs and s.^Tiibids, but armies liave not been put in motion to overthrow vicious politital systems and regenerate iniquitous govern- ments for other ptniples. For more tlian four centuries Spain has lield llie ishind of Cuba as licr clialtel, and there slie iia.s revelled iu corruptiou, and wantoned in luxury wrung from slaves witli the cruel liand of unchecked imwcr. She has been tlie unjust and merciless court of last resort. From lui- malignant verdict tliere lias l»een no jiossible appeal, no power to wliicii lier victims could turn for help. Hut the end ha.s come at last. The woe, the grief, the humiliation, the agony, the desj)air that Sjiain has heaped upon thr> helpless, and multiplied in the world until the world is sickened wifli it, will be piled in one avalanche on her own head. l^iberty has grown slowly. Civilization has l>een on the defensive. Now liberty liglits for liberty, and civilizal'on l:ikes the aggressive in the lioli<'st wai- the world has even known. Never was there a war before in which so many stimulating deeds of bravely were done in such a short time, and this in s])ite of the fact that the jiublic has been restless for more action. It is almost worth a war to have inscribed such a deed of cool, intelligent heroism as that of llobson and his men with the Merrimac, in the entrance to the harl;or of Santiago ihmamtv. IvMfjii fill- i>i-(iitMii(iii ajiiiinsi Iiiasf, and lackin;,^ cause for pride to-day, she floats over lier j^lorions e.\p|dratidns and her intellectual jirowess of the middle aiies when uMich df Kurojte was in darknes.s. Then Spain's tla^' led jiioneers tlirdu;;hout the Wdfld. Uut her ju'ide was ba.sed (Ui acijieveinenis, many df which, to the jteople of any other nation, would have been the di.sjirace of its"liistory. No indictment of Spain «an ever be more severe, more scalhinj;, if its true si;,'niticance be considered, than the famous jihrase which one of liei* pi'oudest iMtels created lo characterize her tla^ of red uud yellow. "Saiijire y erd," he said, "blodd and i;idd — a stream of j^idd lielwceu twd rivers df blood." It is almost :i sullicieni characterization to indicate tlie wiiole na- tional spirit of Spain, to recall that this |ihrasi- is the proud exjires- sidii used by the Sjiauish jiedple td ^'hunfy their own llaj;. That senti- ment is in no stronjiei* contrast to (he .\mericau phrase, "the starspan- jrh'd banner-," than art- tin- pi-nplc of Spain to the people of the I'nitcd States. "Remember the Maine." I'rom tlieday of the luitbreak of the Cuban revdlution, early in IS!)."), until nearly the end of .lanuary, ISJIS, there had l»een no llaj; of the I'uited States Keen in any harber of Cuba exce]>t upon merchant vessels. Always before, it hail been the policy of dur jiovernment to have shijis of war make friendly calls in tin- harliors (»f all eounli'ie« of the wnihl at freipieut intervals, ami Cultan waters lunl sliared these courtesies. So can-fnl were the oflicers of the ( 'levelaml administratirin to avoid the Jippearance of ofTense or threat a^xaiust the authority f hdstilitii's in Cuba this practice was suspended, so far as it apidie IH'.MANITY. 31 enoe than Ihero had boon fur many months, people bciiaii It) realize as tbej' bad not before, the horrors that were being enacted at liieir thresholds. The saah)i*s who died with the Maine, even thongh they were not able to fight their conntry's foes, have not died in vain, for it is their death that will be remembered as the culminating inflnence for Ameiican intervention and the salvation of scores of thonsands of lives of starving Cuban women and children. Vessels were loaded with supplies of pro- visions and clothing for the suffering and were sent to the harbors of Cuba, where distribution was made by Miss Clara Barton and her trusted associates in the American National Eed Cross. Some of these vessels were merchant steamers, but others were American cruisers, and Cubans were not permitted to forget that there was a flag which typified liberty, not far away. The strain upon the national patience increased ever}- day, and was ueaiing the breaking point. President and Congress Act. After a period of restlessness in Congress which was shared by the whole country, the President final!}' transmitted an imp(n*tant message. It included a resume of the progress of the Cuban revolution from its beginning and considered in some detail the workings of that devastat- ing policy of General Weyler, known as reconcenti'ation. The message reiated the progress of diplomatic negotiations witli Spain, and dis- closed a surprising succession of events in which the Spanish govern- ment had submitted to various requests and recommendations of the American government. The message ended with a request that Con- gress authorize and empower the President to take measures to secure a full and final tenuination of the intolerable conditions on the island of Cuba. Having exhausted the powers of the executive in these efforts, it was left to the legislative authority of the American people to estab- lish such policies as would be finally efficient. Congress rose to the occasion. The facts were at command of both houses, their sympathies were enlisted at the side of their reason and there was little time lost in acting. The House and the Senate, after mutual concessions on minor details, passed as a law of the land for the President's signature, an act directing him and empowering him to require Spain to withdraw her troops and relinquish all authority over the island of Cuba. The President was authorized to employ the army and navy of the Ignited States for th(» purpose of carrying into oo A WAi; ini; I.11!1;1:TV and lir.MANlTV. t'lTiTt this iastnictioii ami llie iuli'ift'ii-iuc was dirootcd to be made at once. Best of all, from the point of view of the Cuban patriots, the act declared that the people of Cuba are and outrht to be free and inde- IK'ndeiit. Hut a few days more of diplomacy, and war was to begin. Spain Defies America. It was hardly to he cxpcclcd llial ili.> Si»aiiish •iovei'Uiiicnt and tlie S]ianisli jieople would yield to the tleuiands of the United States with- tiul a protest. So ffebh' is the Imld of the present dynasty upon tlie tin-one of Sjiain, ihal it was readily understood that any concession uptdi the part of the (2\ieen IJe^cnt W(juld arouse Spanish indignation beyond the liiuits of endurance. The Queen-mother had to tiiink of her baby son's crown. If she were to yield to the superior power of the I'nited StMes without a struggle, Spanish rev(dutionists would over- thritw the dynasty before he could come to the throne. However well slie might know thai the logical outcome of a war would be overwiielni- ing defeat to Spanisji anus, political necessities compelled her to lake the position dic|atey Spanish pride. The Spanish ("«u'(es met in special si-ssidu al Madrid, and on the lidlh of .\pril I he (ineeii Kegeut delivered her speech before that legis- laiixc body ami ijiiiaied llial lier parliameiii was summoned in the hour of peril to defend her connlry's rights and her child's throne, whatever sacrilice might be entailed. Ii was on that same day that President .McKiidey presented the nllimalnm of the I'liiled Slates to Spain, in language di|iloMiMl ic in form. Imi caiiyinu wiili il a delinite notice to yield ( 'uba's freedom ami relim|uish her prelense cd' antliorily in that island without delay. .\ cojiy of the ullimalum was forwardeil to the Spanish andiassador at Washington, Senor I*olo y Iternabe, who respornhnl by asking for his passports and safe condnct out of the count ly. Ihning leacln-il the point wiiere dijilniii:ir\ no longer aAailed, liie Spanish government for the lirst time made an aggressive move against the Itnled States. Instead of waiting for Ihe Iransmissirm of the ulti- matum by .\mei-ican .Miiusler Stewart L. Woodford, the niinislry fore- stalled him ami disnnssed him from Madrid without alTording him an op|Mirtunity to )tresent thai imiioiianl docmneiil. II had bet-n Irans- mitted to .Madrid tiy cable from the Spanish .Miiusler in Washington, ami the government fell ntaiu was informed that his ship could not proceed, he took liis capture gracefully, shrugged his shoul- ders, and said he supposed it was onl^- the fortune of war. It was sug- gested to him that the capture of a ship bearing that name, which, translated, means "good fortune," as the first prize of the American fleet in the w^ar, seemed to be a striking coincidence. A prize crew of marines under Ensign T. P. MagTuder was placed aboard, and, with the Nashville in the lead, both ships set out for Key West. Inasmuch as the Buena Ventura w'as the first capture by the Amer- ican navy in the war, it had a more definite interest than a success of the same sort would have a few months later. The first shot was fired by Gunner Michael Mallia of the Nashville, who therefore has the dis- tinction of firing the first sliot in the war. The prize was a rich one, estimated to be worth, including vessel and cargo, nearly |500,000, and tlie prize money resulting became a tempting amoimt. Captain Washburne Maynard, commander of the Nashville, who gained the dis- tinction of making the first capture, is a native of Knoxville, Tenn. He is a son of former United States Senator Horace Maynard, and at the time of the capture was about fifty years old. He entered the An- napolis Naval Academy at the age of seventeen and graduated at the head of his class. He was for a number of years stationed in Alaska, and at the time of gaining his preisent distinction had been in command of the Nashville for four years. Blockade of Havana Begun. After the Nashville left the fleet to return to Key West with its prize, the remaining vessels of the squadi"on steamed onward toward '^i-, A WAi: F()|; I.II'.KKTV ANH III MANITV. till* ("ubiiii foasl. Coiiiiii^ witliiii liflt-in luik's of Muiro Castli', the lloct scatftTtMl ill a iiioi-i' npcii liiK' of battle, .sdiiic of the vessels turuiiij,^ to tile east and others to the west, and niaUiii^ tiie blockade of the jiort roniplete. No shi]» conld enter or leave the harbor, and every day broiijrlit new jirizes to the vessels of the blockadiiij;' squadron. The blockade of the Cuban luetropolis was well in pro<;ross by the time the formal notilicatiou of it was issued. The President issued warriiii;: to the nations of the woi-Jd that IIh' Cuban poi-ts were sealern, Pedro of Bilboa. As soon as she was laid alongside, the Pedi'o was boarded by Ensign Frank Marble of the New York. Ensign ^larble^ led a pi'\ze crew, con- sisting of a file of marines and seamen. With great formality the en- sign swung aboard and assumed command. A burly, bare-footed Ameri- can tar shoved the Spanish quartorniaster away from (he wheel and 28 A WAK FOU LIUKKTY AN1> IILMANITY. bt'-iiiu to set till' cDurse of the Spaniiinl. The Si)anish crew >iatlu'i"i'd in a terrifu'tl huddle near the forecastle and awaited devel<)])nieuts. Hardly had the prize crew been put on board beforeanother freighter was seen jioinj;- down the coast to the eastward. The New York, leaving the captured Spanish craft in charge nf the i)rize crew, drew a(M*oss the bows of the stranger and sent a shot into ilic walcr directlj' in fi*ont of her bows. She paid no attention to the challenge, but kept steadily on, anil a lew seconds later another shot was sent hurtliug across the water in front of her. After this hostile demonstration she hauled up and soon followed the New York ont to sea. It was discovered, how- ever, that she ticw the (icrinan Hag, and coiisc<|U('Ut ly was lU'ruiittcd to proceed. The ])rize crew from the New York took the captured vessel into jiort at Key West under its own steam. The ship was bound fiom Havana to Santiago with a valuable cargo of rice, ii-ou and beer. On th(' same day two <)ther captures were made, one by the torpedo boat Ericsson, which seized a lishing schooner uinici- I he verj' guns of Slorro ("astle and by Ihetorjx'do boat, I'orter, wliidi took (he Spanish schooner, Malhilde, alli r a lively chase and a nninher nl" shots. Roth of these "prizes were la ken to Key ^\■est losite .Mm to Castle, was crowded wiili curious peoi)le, including many ladies. In addition, crowds of peojije could be seen at various poinls of vantage, iii;iiiy of ilieni g.iiiiering on the roofs <)f houses. At (I p. m. the sema]>hore signaled ilial it was the United States (leet whirji was in sight, and at (!:1."> p. m. a renl Ihroiighout the city, and was the first real note of war. When the first signal came from the semaphore station a IJrilish schooner which was in the harbor jmt to .s(»a. She was immediately followed by the fJennan steamer Jlemus. Some time afterward the American steamer Saratoga put to sea. The i-aniion shots from the foi-(resses stirre(l up the regidar troops A WAK FOK Lll'.EHTY AND HUMANITY. 29 and volimtoei's throughout llavaua aud its viciuity aud there was a rush to quarters. The signal guns from the fortilications echoed to the pahice and through the streets, causing people to rush from their houses, with the result that all the thoroughfares were soon crowded with excited inhabitants. Captain General Blanco heard the .shots while at the palace, to Avhich place the generals and commanders of the yolun- teers promptly repoi'ted, full of excitement and warlike enthusiasm, ^ome time aften\'ard the Captain General, accompanied by his staff, the generals and others, left the palace and was warmly acclaimed by the soldiers and populace. The General then made a brief final inspec- tion of the fortifications and went to a spot from which he could see the approaching fleet. There was no sign of alarm anywhere. The Spaniards were con- fident that Havana was prepared for any eventuality, and they had great faith in the strength of their forts, batteries, etc., and in the effectiveness of their heavy artillery. In fact, there was a feeling of satisfaction at the warlike tremors which spread evei^^where when it was seen that the hour of battle was apparently approaching and that the Spaniards were soon to give battle to their enemies. As the time passed, more people crowded to the spot from which the fleets could be most favorably seen. By 8:30 p. m. there was a great movement of the masses througli all the streets and on all the squares. The coffee-houses and clubs were crowded with excited people, discuss- ing the aiTival of the Amei'ican war ships. The Spaniards expressed themselves as anxious to measure arms with the "invaders," and tliere was no expression of doubt as to the result. The civil and military authorities of Havana were in consultation at the palace, and every precaution possible to the Spaniards was taken to guard against a night surprise and to resist an attack if the bombardment commenced. Spain's Days of Grace Expire. When President McKinley sent his ultimatum to Spain, he indicated that it was to expire at noon on Saturday, April 23, aud at that time the period allowed Spain to give up Cuba peacefully was ended. Spain, however, had not waited to take advantage of this time limit, but by her own preparations during the days tliat had passed, as well as by her diploumtic actions, liad indicated plainly that wax* was to come. The action of Jlinister .Polo in demanding his passport and leaving the United States, and the action of the Spanish government in ejecting :;o A WAU F(m; i.ii:i;i:tv am> hi mamtv. Miiiisli'i- Woudlunl, were* .suniciL'Ul uuliluatidus uf the jiulicy wiucli was to be i)ur.suetl. It bad boon unueoessary, tberefore, for tbe fltH?t to wait fur a more exi)li(it answer befnre iuvestin*; Havana, Not until tlie expiration of tbe time all s'iatiis: a riJofLA.MA'i'iox. WliiTcas, by a joint rcsobilion of ('(>nj;nss, approved tlie L'L'd of April, IMtS, eiiiitb-d "rluint rcsobitiou for tbe reco},mition of tlie iudepeudeuce of tbe people of Cuba, deiiiandiii;,' tbat tbe fiovcrnnient of Spain reliiKpiisb its autbor- ily and pivernnient in tbe island of Cuba, to witbdraw its land and naval forces from Cuba and Cidiau waters, and dircctiuj; tbe I'resident of I he Initi'd Slates to use tbe laud and naval forces of tbe United Stales lo (any tbese rcsohilious into elTecl," anil, W'lieri'as, by an act of Conj;ress, enlillcd "An act to provide for ihc iii- crrasin^ of tlic ndlilary eslablisbnieni of tbe Cniled States iu time of war and for oilier purposes," ap]iroved i\pril '2'2, ISIKS, tbe I'lvsidcnt was aiillior ized iu order to raise a voluuleer ai'Uiy to issiu' bis iiroilaiiiation railing; fur voluuleers to serve in llie ai'Uiy of tbe I'nited Stales. Now, llierefore, I. Williaui .McKinley. I'resident of tbe Iniled Slates, by tbe po\vi-r vested in me by tbe constitution ajid laws, and deeming; sullicient occasion to exist, liave tboufilit lit lo call for and liereby do call for volun- teers lo llie aK};re;;ale uiiuiber of lli.">,ll(10, in oider to carry into effect tbe pui'|iose of tbe said rcsobilion, tbe same to be apixirlioned, as far as practi- cable, amon^ tbe seveial Slates and Territories and tbe District of Columbia, according; to population, anil to serve for two years unless soonei- discliar};eer autlmrilies tlirouuli tbe war deparlmeiil. In witness wbereof, I liave bereunto set my liaiid. ami caused tbe seal of tbe rnitiMl States to be aflixed. Doui- at Wasbin^lon tliis l2.".d day of Api-il. ls!ls. and of ilic indiiieiidriice of tbe I'nited States tbe one biindred and I weiily sei-mid. I!y Ibe I'residenl: WILLIAM Mk' INLKV. .inllN SIIKK.MAN. Senetary of Stale. States Begin to Collect Their Troops. .\ltbo\i;,di it wa.s decide HUMANITY. 31 lowing Moiuliiy, the lii'.st stop was taken iniineoses and was not an attack on the fleet, but it would be difficult to make the sailors believe that Spanish marksmanship was not respon- sible fttr tile fact that no balls fell near them. Spain Declares War. The Spanish government did not wait for further aggression on the part of the United States, but herself made the next formal move by issuing a declaratiproved Ajiril 'S2. ISilS, to issue my proclamation, dated Ajiril '2'.^, ISflS, calling for volunteers in order to carry into ellect the said resolutions of .\pril 20, 1S9S. Copies of these iiroclamalioiis are hen-to aj»[iended. In vi«'w of tin- nii'asuroH so taken, and with a view to the adoption of sucli oilier nieasiin-.K as may be necessary to enalile me to carry out the ex|)ressed (vill of the Congress of the United States in the lu'cmises, I now recommend A WAR FOR LIBERTY AND HUMANITY. 35 to your honorable body the adoption of a joint resolution declaring that a state of war exists between the United States of America and the Kingdom of Spain, and I urge speedy action thereon, to the end that the definilion of the international status of the United States as a belligerent power may be made known, and the assertion of all its rights and the maintenance of all its duties in the conduct of a public war may be assured. WILLIAM M'KINLEY. Executive Mansion, Washington, April 25, 1898. War Is Declared. The formal declaration of war as passed by the bouses of Congress was short and pointed, worthy of recollection as a model for such un- pleasant documents. It read as follows: A BILL DECLARING THAT WAR EXISTS BETWEEN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA AND THE KINGDOM OF SPAIN. Be it enacted, etc.: First — That war be and the same is hereby declared to exist and that war has existed since the 21st day of April, A. D. 1898, including said day, between the United States of America and the Kingdom of Spain. Second — That the President of the United States be, and he hereby is, directed and empowered to use the entire land and naval forces of the United States and to call into the actual service of the United States the militia of the several States to such extent as may be necessary to carry this act into effect. Diplomacy was still taking a hand in the war. Spain Avas indignant at the attack on Spanish possessions and endeavored to arouse sympathy among her European neighbors. The (Jueen Regent addressed tele- grams to all the sovereigns of Europe protesting against the vitiation of the rights of Spain by the United States, and declaring that her gov- ernment was firmly resolved never to yield until crushed. This was a personal communication from one sovereign to her brother sovereigns of the continental kingdom. At the same time there was made public Spain's memorandum to all the European powders which was an official utterance of the Spanish ministry and signed by SeCor Gullon, the Spanish Minister of Foreign Afl'airs. The memorandum began by recording the "moral and material aid the Cuban rebels have received from the United States" in filibustering expeditious and the operations of the junta. It mentioned Spain's re- 36 A WAK FOH LIBERTY AND IIIMANITY. IR'atc'il auil posilivi' dt'iiials to the allcgatiuiis of ti'iiclty towiu'd the Cubans, aud laid yivat stress upou Presideut Cleveland'.s dispatcL tif Dec. 7, 18!i(», to the effeet tliat peace wuiihl be possible if Spain gave a sufficient autonomy to Cuba, The menioranduin contended that, in the face of the new liberal constitution granted Cuba, which "has already bonie fruits," it waa difficult to understand why President McKiuley, in his message of Dec. (5, 1S9T, and General Woo.lford, in the note of Dec. 20, 1897, should still doubt Si)ain's loyalty. The document tlien spoke at .some length of the Maine accident, and asserted that the Americans, under the pretext of the extra territori- ality of the ve.s.sel, never allowed tJie Spaiush authorities to visit the wreck for purposes of investigation; and it most stdemnly a.sserted the absolute inuocenie of Spanish olVnials and of Spanisii subjects gen- erally. The fairness and loyalty of Spain were then shown bj- a reference to the equitable treatment which American filibusters, more especially those of the ComjK'titor, received at the hands of Spain, and in order to show more fully how pacific and convct have been the attitude of the S]>anish government the mem<>randum euumerateil the four clauses of th«' Siiaiiisli pro]ii>siiIs. Tiiey were: Proposals of Spain. 1. An offer to subnut all (picsiioiis arising from the Maine affair to arbitration. '2. All nrilcr to ("lovernordcneral Planco to I'etire into the western provinces and to api)ly ;5,000,0()0 iK'setas for the relief of the agricultural population, with an acce]»tance by the Spanish government of relief for Cubans .sent by the T'nited States, ]M"ovided such relief were sent in merchant vessels. 3. The co-operation of the (Id)an parliament in formulating the extent of the powers to be reserved for the central government. 4. In view of the Cuban parliament nf an immeiliate armistice. Tiie memorandum proceeded to declare that the United States had not acce])ted even thes<> far-reaching c(mcessions, and that the good offices of tlie ])ope had be(>n erjually unavailing. It as.serted that the Maine accident was used by political parlies in .\merica as a means of hurling "most gratuitruis and intolei-alilr nilnninies at the Spanish A WAR FOR LIBERTY AND HUMANITY. 37 government," and yet, the document said, Mr. Olney, in an official note dated April 4, 1S9C, to the Spanish minister in Washington, himself expressed very serious apprehensions lest tlie only existing bond of union in Cuba should disappear in the event of Spain withdrawing from that island. Mr. Olney, as the memorandum argued, feared at that time that a war of races would ensue, all the more sanguinary in proportion to the experience and discipline acquired during the insur- rection, and that two republics would at once be formed — one white, the other black — the upshot being that one of the two would swallow the other. The grave view thus taken by Mr. Olney of the future of Cuba freed from Spain's rule was then enlarged upon, and inevitable racial wars were foreshadowed, which were "certain to wreck the existence of Cuba as a state, should Spain be deprived of sovereignty" over the island. Thus, being convinced, as Spain was, that right and equity are on her side "she will not and cannot surrender her sovereignty in Cuba." Trouble for Spain at Home. Spain's embaiTassments at home were multiplying, and thi*eatening danger only less than that from the hostilities .of the United States. Twenty thousand republicans of all shades of opinion in Madrid signed and addressed to Seiior Castelar, the republican leader, under the pretext of congratulating him upon his recovei-y from recent sickness, but in reality offering him their services if he would proclaim a republic. At the same time Don Carlos, the pretender to the Spanish throne, was a disturbing element, threatening a revolution against the present dynasty if an opportunity were to offer. During all these complications, which included at one time even a threa.t that the Spanish ministry would resign, there was no discordant note of any sort in the United States. Secretai-y of State John Sherman and Postmaster General Gary resigned from President McKinley's cabinet because of ill health, in order that the government might be in no way handicapped during the time of emergency. Secretary Sher- man was succeeded by Assistant Secretary Judge William E. Day of Canton, Ohio, who had displayed remarkable aptitude for the office during his term of service, while Mr. Gai-y's successor was the Honor- able Charles Emory Smith, of Philadelphia, a newspaper editor and formerly ambassador to Russia. 38 A WAK IY)R LIliKRTV AND inMAXITY. Along the Cuban Coast. It was the torpedo boats which kept thiiij^s exeitiny duriug theearly bh>ekade of Cuban ix)rts. Thej' aj'e like hornets, which travel faster than an^-thing that tries to escape them, sting when the}- strike, and vanish in an instant. Two of these brisk lighters di.stinguished them- selves on Sunday, while the diphmiats were busy in the cabinets of the world. Tlie torpedo boat PoHer, which is a.s lleet as an express train, has a dare-devil crew and an intrejiid commander with an honored name. He is Lieutenant Joiin (\ Freuiont, a son of the famous "Path- tinder," who himself never hesitated to lead the way, whether in w ildcr- ness exploratioH or any other duty that came before him. Lieutenant Frenmnt, with tlie I'oi-ter, made a lauding on tiu' north coast of Cuba witii a suiall force of his nu'U, in search of certain infonua- tiou which was desired by Admiral Sampson for the guidance of his plaus. It was a dangerous undertaking, for the squad might havebeen wijMi'd out in spite of their readiness to fight, if thej- had stumbled uiwn Spanish trooi)s. Noue were met, however, the jouniey was made in safety, aiul the landing ])arty returned lo the Hcct in irium]ili witli the distiucfion of being tlie first actual invaders of the Cuban soil in this warfare. Ivirlier in the same day the torjiedo boat Foote, in command of Lieutenant W. L. Koger.s, was directed to take soundings of the ap- Iu-o;ich to llu' harbor of JIatanzas, an important city on the north coast of Cuba (ifly miles east of llavami. The Foote drew the first fire definitely known lo be directed against the blockading squadron. The little scout was taking soinuliugs within thice hundred yaitls of shore, when a Spanish masked battery on the ea.st side of the harbor, command- ing the eutrantui'e of large supplies of coal and naval equipment, as well as a splendid base of operations. The approach of May was admitted on every hand to signal definite operations on land and sea, in which the invading forces of the United States would enter the island of Cuba under the protection of the fleet for a systematic campaign against the Spanish forces under Captain General Blanco. The insurgents in Cuba were planning to co-operate with the United States forces, and every arrangement was cojupleted for final action. With men and money, munitions of war and ships, all in ample supply, it was evident that the crucial test was soon to come, and that the war was at last an actual fact. CHAPTER II. HOW COLUMBUS FOUND THE -TEAKL OF THE ANTILLES." . Ingratitude of Spain to the Great Discoverer Who Gave Her a Xew World — How Spain's Evil Colonial Policy Lost the Western Hemisphere to That Obsolete Nation — Early Settlement of Cuba — Character of the Natives at the Time of the Discovery — Founding of the First Cities — Havana Becomes the Island Capital — Docility of the Natives and Their Extermination by Spanish Oppressors. Cuba and Columbus are names inseparably connected. This largest and most fruitful island of the Spanish Main was discovered by the great navigator himself on tlie 2Sth day of October, 1492, only a short time after his first landing upon the soil of the western hemisphere on the island of San Salvador. There is a sentimental association to Americans in the thought that the discovery of our own continent was due to the pioneer expeditions sent from Spain. But any regTet in one's mind that animosities have risen between the two nations, may be mollified by the memory that Columbus was himself an Italian, that it had recpiired years of his efforts to induce sufficient interest on the part of Spanish monarchs to father his undertaking, and that his life in the service of Spain was marred by the basest ingratitude on the part of those whom he had served. Upon the handsome moutiment erected to the memory of Columbus in Seville by Ferdinand and Isabella, is the simple inscription, "A Cas- tile y Leon, nuevo mundo dio Colon" — '*to Castile and Leon, Columbus gave a new world." This was the tardy recognition granted to the discoverer by those to whom he had made the marvelous gift. Recognition had been denied him in his life, except after years of persistent urgiug, second only to those years he wasted in his effort to arouse Spanish interest and en- terprise. Once he was removed from his West Indian governorship and returned to Spain in chains. The titles and honors which had been promised him before, were denied after he had earned them. He was a victim of fotil ingratitude, and no American need permit senti- ment to blind him for the sake of Columbus. 41 42 HOW COLUMBUS FOUND THE "PEARL OF THE ANTILLES." The si)leiulid new world which Columbus gave to Spain, was the most marvekius addition of territoiy that has ever come into the pos- session of any nation upon earth. It included the whole of South Amer- ica, except Brazil, which was acquireil by rorlnre been such a record of ferocity and barbarity in <((n<|Uest, as that which blackens the jKiges of Si)anish histoiy in con- nection with Spain's acqtiisition and subjection of her newly discovered territories. Whellier it was the peaceful lutlians of the Antilles, the higiily civilized Aztecs of .Mexico, or the Incas of Pern, the indicy pur- sued was always the same. First, treacherous friendship, then robbery and massacre, tiien slavery, and finally extermiiiaticui, was the unvary- ing programme. .\nd so, insteac(i- ple never fogot. From that day, the colonial policy of the Britisli gov- ernment was altered, and the spirit xi>ression, this great fortress, added to her almost perfect harbor, gave Havana a wonderful "boom," and tlie city expe- rienced a remarkable growth. The Sjjanish merciiantnien were ac- tively employed in carrying the wealth of Mexico to the Peninsula, and Havana was a convenient port for them to secure supplies of provis- ions and water. In 154!> (Jonzales Perez de Augulo was appointed governor of the island, and he was so impressed with the beauties of the city, that he chose it as his residence. Several of his successors fol- lowed his exami)le, and in IT.Sit it was legally made the ca])ila] of Cuha. Early Government of Cuba. The early records of the islaml were ke])t in so impei-fect a inamn r I hat il is not possible to give an accurate account of the early govern- ors and their lieutenants. It is certain, however, that the seat of gov- (■rnmciit was at Santiago de Cuba, and that Havana and other towns of minor importance were ruled by liculciiants. In 1.">3S, Hernando de Soto, adelanlado of I'lorida, and also governor of Cuba, landed at Santiago, and remained a f<'W days before proceeding to the main- land. On his dejiarlure he left liic government of the island in charge of a laily, Htma Isabel ursuits, and increaseil remarkably both iu wealth and numbers. Their fertile fields formed for a considerable time the granary of Kome, and from the metal-veined mountains an immense amount of gold and silver llowed into Homan coffers. Ilowever, these were not viduntary offerings of the natives. They were compelled to laiior in the mines for tiie benefit of strangers, and thus Spain, iu the early age.s, was the type of Spanish America iu the fifteenth aud suc- ceeding centuries, with the diflerence that in the first case the Sjjan- iards were the slaves, and in the second the}' were the slave-holders. For more than :{()() years Spain remaineilhi<:e(l the cities, murdered the people; they burnennish soldiers captured the SPAIN'S BLACK niSTORlCAL RECORD. 53 capital of that coimtrj they speut days iu melting dowu the golden vessels which they found iu temples and palaces. Ou one voyage a single ship carried to Spain |15,500,000 in gold, besides va.st treasures of silver and jewels. The Horrors of the Inquisition. The Inquisition was a tribunal in the Konum Catholie churcli for the discovery, repression and punishment of heresy and unbelief. It originated in Rome when Chnstianity was established as the religion of the Empire, but its history in Spain and her dependencies has ab- sorbed almost entirely the real interest in the painful subject. As an ordinai-y tribunal, similar to those of other countries, it had existed tltiere from an early period. Its functions, however, in those times were little more than nominal; but early in the reign of Ferdi- nand and Isabella, on account of the alleged discoveiy of a plot among the Jews to overthrow the government, an application was made to the Pope to permit its re-orgauization. But in reviving the tribunal, the Cix)wn assumed to itself the right of appointing the inquisitors, and of controlling their entire action. For this reason Catholic writ- ers regard the Spanish inquisition as a state tribunal, and refer to the bull of the Pope, Sixtus IV., protesting against it. Notwithstanding this protest, however, the Spanish Crown maintained its assumption. Inquisitors were appointed, and in 1483 the tribunal commenced its terrible career, under Thomas de Torquemada. The inquisition arrested on suspicion, tortured for confession, and then punished with fire. One witness brought the victim to the rack, two to the flames. The prisoner was not confronted with his accuser, nor were their names ever mpde known to him. The court was held in a gloomy dungeon at midnight, a dim light gleamed from smoking torches, and tlie grand inquisitor, enveloped in a black robe, glared at his victim through holes cut in the hood. Before the examination, the accused, whether man, maid or mati'on, was stripped and stretched upon the rack, where tendons could be strained without cracking, bones crushcnl without breaking, and the body tortured without dying. When the prisoner w;i,s found guiltj-, his tongue was cut out, so that he eould neither speak nor swallow. Ou the morning of the exe- cution a breakfast of rare delicacies was placed before the sufferer, and with ironical invitation he was urged to enjoy his last repast. 54 SPAIN'S I'.LACK HISTORICAL KKCOHD. Tbt'ii till' jtrisoucr was It-d lo thi- luin'ral pyre, whore an addri'ss was jjiveii, laudiiijj the iiKiuisitiun, eimdeiiiiiiuj; heresy, and eoniniandinj: obeilienee to the Pope and the Emperor. Tlien, while hymns were 8ung, bhizin};; fayots were i)ik'd about tlie victim, until his body was reduied to a heap of ashes. Some conception of the api)alliuj^ cruelty of the iuqiiisiliou luuh-r Torquemada may be formed from the statement that dnriug the six- teen years of his tennre of oltice nearly 10,000 porsinis were romlciiined to the tlaiues, and the projjcrty of 1)7,000 others was (•(iiilis( atcd. Spanish Rule in Holland. ilurrilile as the alnxitics of tlie iiKniisition were in llic iiinliier f Troubles — the "Uloont mnltitmles of them to dealli. The iiKwe the jK'iisauts rebelled, the cruelcr were the methods of Alva. .Men were tortured, beheaded, roasted before slow tires, j>inrlic(l to death with hot tongs, broken on the wheel, flayed alive. On one occasion the skins of leaders were stripjx'd from their living Imdies, and stretclieuriii'^ I lie coiii-se of six vears .Viva SPAIN'S BLACK HISTORICAL RECORD. 55 brought charges of heresy and treason against 30,000 inhabitants, and made the infamous boast that, in addition to the multitudes Icilled in battle and massacred after victory, he had consigned 18,000 persons to the executioner. This unholy war with the Netherlands lasteil with occasional ces- sations of hostilities for eighty years, and during its progress Spain buried 330,000 of her sous and allies in Holland, spent untold millions in the attempted destruction of freedom, and sunk fi-om the first power in Europe, an empire whose proud boast it had been that upon her pos- sessions the sun never set, to the level of a fourth-rate country', cruel in government, superstitious in religion, and ever an enemy to progress. Expulsion of the Moors. In addition to the terrible drain upon the country fi'om losses in war, the expulsion of the Jews and the Moors was productive of the direst results. In 1609 all the Moriscoes were ordered to depart from the Peninsula within three days. The penalty of death was declared against all who failed to obey, and against any Christians who should shelter the recalcitrant. The edict was obeyed, but it was a blow from which Spain never recovered. The Moriscoes were the back-bone of the industiial population, not only in trade and manufactures, but also in agriculture. The haughty and indolent Spaniards had will- ingly left what they considered degrading employment to their in- feriors. The Moors had introduced into Spain the cultivation of sugar, cotton, rice and silk. In manufactures and commerce they had shown superiority to the Christian inhabitants, and many of their products were eagerly sought for by other countries. All these advantages were sacrificed to an insane desire for religious unity. The reigns of Philip III. and Philip IV. witnessed a fearful accel- eration in the decline of Spain by the contests with the Dutch and with the German Protestants in the Thirty Years' War, the wars with France, and the rebellion of Portugal in KUO, which had been united to Spain by Philip II. The reign of Charles II. was still more unfor- tunate, and his death was the occasion of the war of the Spanish suc- cession. Under Charles III. (1759-1788), a wise and enlightened prince, the second great revival of the country commenced, and ti'ade and commerce began to show signs of returning activity. Previous to his 5G Sl'AlNS IJLACK IIISTCHCICAL KlJCOKl). jUTi'ssiuu t(j the tliroue, Spaiu appeaivd tu be a coiii-se, over wbiih the powers of Europe could couteud at will. Suddenly lueu were astounded to see that country rise with renewed vigor to pljiy once more an iuii>ortaiit pait on the international staye. Commerce and ajiriculture were developed, native manufactures were encouraj;ed in every way possible, and an atti'uipt was made to remove all jirejudices aj^ainst trade, amonj; the nobles. Merititrious as the.se reforms were, it would give a false impression to rejneseut them as wholly success- ful. The i-egeneratiou of Spain was by uo meajis accomplished, and many of the abuses which had been growing for centuries, survived the attempt to effect their annihilation. One of the chief causes of this failure was the corruption and ignorance of the lower officials; and a large portion of the population remained, to a great extent, sunk in sloth and superstition, in sjiite of all that WiVs done in their behalf. During the inglorious reign of diaries IV. (1788-1SU8), who left the management of alTairs in the hands of tlie incai)able Godoy, (at once the queen's lover and the king's prime minister), a war broke out witli I?ritain, which was |»reror, was declared King of Spain, and set out for Mailrid to assume the kingdom tiius assigneil liim. Hut Spanish loyalty was too jirofttund to be daunted even by the awe-insjiii-iiig jMiwer of the great Xaixileon. F(»r the first time he found liiniself confronted, not by terrilicf! jmd seilish rulers, I)Ut by an infuriate! pe(»jiie. The rising on Spain coiiinienced tlie jfopular move- ment which ulliniatcly ju'oved fatal to liis jHiwer. In .Inly, ISOS, Fngland, on solicitation, made jieace with Spain, recognized Ferdinand \'l!. as king, and sent an army to aid the Spau- is!i insurrection. Jo.seph invaded the country on July 9, defeated the Spaniards at Kio Seco, aii«l entereUf;ht of, anh over some Spauisli ti-easure fleet. Those were bloody days, full of dramatic excitement. From them some of the most notable winters of fiction have drawn their tales, which enter- tain readers of tt)*da\ . What was done wiili all tlit- liold thus uanicrcd in sea li<^hts before it reached the ports of Spain, is hard to know. Sometimes mystenous stranjjei-s ai)peared in the seaport towns of France and Eniriand and even the American colonies in tlieir younger days, to spend money lavishly for a short time and then disajipear as mysteriously as they came. These men were reputcnl to be ])irate chiefs se<^vin^ relaxation from their customary life. Others of the buccantM?rs hoarded their wealth in hiding places known only to themscdves, the secret of wliii li must have died with them, while the j;old remains undiscovered. All throu}:;h tJie Florida keys aJid the West India islands, as well as along the coasts of Georgia and the Carolina.s, traditions still exist in relation to tlie.se trea.sure hoards. Sanguine people are still digging in the .sands of these bea< hes, in tlie lioite that some day they will unearth a sea chest full of Sjianish doubloons, or the golden ornaments strij(i)ed frnm Aztec idols. Some finds indeinl have been made, but tliose who make them are not apt to reveal the secret which might guide another to a surces.-sfiil searcii. Piratical Raids Trouble Havana. Having discovered the weallii tliat could be obtained by attacks upon tiie Spanisii (le<'ts, the i>irat<'s began to think of the cities whicli were themselves the source of mucli of tliis wealth. Tlie result of this was tliat they began to make di-scents upon the coasts, not only of Cuba, Imt of the neighbonng islands of Jamaica and Santo Domingo. The ex- jK'iise occasional by lheattemi)ts to supjire-ss these incursions became so great tdwai-d the end of the sixttvnth ceutuiy, that ii liirame necessary to iuii>ose a special tax to cov«'r it. I'ortresses at all flie fortilieil harboi-s were iiiiiirovep(Hl the fipposing French line in the last battle of the peninsular cam]/aign, was moved to remark that he had seen many curious things in his life, but never fiefore 20,000 men engaged in a foot race. Yet the tight made by the Spaniards in Havana during the attack of the Rritish and colonial f(>rces in 17(12 is the one notable instance of a jirolonged struggle between men who sj)eak English and men who speak Spanish. Ilistory may be searched in vain, either in the old or BUCCANEERING IN THE SPANISH MAIN. 63 new world, for a defeuse as able in point of generalship or as stubborn in resistance as the Spaniards made at the siege of Havana. In all other cases, from the Elizabethan campaigns in nollaud to the war with Mexico, the men educated in the Spanish school of arms have been content to spend their energies upon a single assault and then flee, sometimes even when the odds were greatly- in their favor. The English Armada left Portsmouth on March 5th, 17G2, under the command of the gallant Admiral Pococke and Loi'd Albemarle, the force moving in seven divisions. It consisted of nineteen ships of the line, eighteen frigates or smaller men-of-war, and 150 transports con- taining about 10,000 soldiers, nearly all infanti^. At the Island of Hayti, then called Hispanola, the British were joined by the success- ful expedition from Martinique. Together they sat down before Havana, July 6th, 17()2. Spain's Intellectual Dry Rot. Spain, suffering, as it suffers to-da^-, from intellectual dry rot, had known for weeks of the intended beleaguerment. Then, as now, notJi- ing adequate was done to meet it. The Governor of Havana, the Mar- quis de Gonzalez, was a gallant soldier, as he was to prove; but that ounce of prevention which is proverbially worth more than the pound of cure, was not taken by him, and the British found the fortifications in a partially ruinous condition, and the fourteen ships of the line which were lying in the harbor before the city in such a state that tliey could hardly be called in commission. The Spanish army of defense numbered 27,000 men, and was in better condition; but the Spanish sailors were utterly demoralized by the granting of too much shore lib- erty, and the best use the Spaniard could put his fighting ships to was by sinking them at the entrance to the anchorage to prevent the en- trance of the British fleet. Once the enemy was before the city, how- ever, all was activity. The fortifications, which were too newly erected to be quite incapable of repair, were set in order, the guns of Morro Castle and of the fort known as the Puntal, across from it, were trained on the advancing foe, and the Spanish ships were sunk, as has been said. Those familiar with the history of English administrative methods during this period will find little to choose between them and the methods of Spain. The season of the year most unwholesome to the inhabitants of a temperate climate had already set in, with all its G-i BL'CCANKKHINCr IX THE SI'ANIiSII MAIN. traiu of pestik'nces, when the British aiTiveerience. The fact that so man^' men were willing to volunteer in this arduous and, as it turned out, desj>era(e service for the King, speaks volumes for what could have been dcme with such men had Pitt and jint Bute been at the head of the Knglish nation at that time. The lulvicis fioni Havana showed that the army there was in great need of reinforcenu'nts, so by great efforts the rcgnliirs and provimials were stowed way in fourteen transports, and with an escort of a few fri-rates thev set sail for the South about BUCCANEERING IN THE SI'ANISH MAIN. G5 the middle of May. There were the usual shouts of an admiriug popu- lace and the tears of sweethearts and wives; but it is ea.sj^ to say that there w^ould have been no rejoicing if the people of Connecticut, the Jerseys, and New York could have foreseen that hai'dly one of every fifty of their volunteers would see his home again. Americans Were Wrecked. Just before the arnval of these welcome reinforcements on July 20, some English merchantmen had come along with cargoes of cotton bags, which were pressed into immediate use for the lines which were now closing around Havana; and in the ships were also found several pilots. Then the forces from the North came amidst general rejoicings, but without I'utnam and 500 of his Yankees. These, in a transport which was skirting the dangerous coast much too closely, were ship- wrecked on one of the treacherous shoals thereabouts. Putnam, with true New England fertility of resource, extemporized rafts from the fragments of the vessel and got all his men ashore without the loss of a life. They landed near the City of Carthagena, threw up breast- works, and were found ready to repel a force of thousands of Span- iards when the ships from before Havana arrived for their rescue, their own companions wiselj^ pi'essing on and sending aid back from the headquarters. The American troops went bravely to work, engaging themselves chiefly with the undermining of one of the walls. To reach this it was necessary for them to pass along a narrow eminence where they were in plain view and easy range of the Spaniards. A number were lost in this dangerous enterprise, but their valor was dimmed neither by this nor by the still heavier losses which came upon them through tiie diseases prevalent in every portion of the British camp. Though men of such hardiness that they must have been equal in resisting power to the British, their losses were comparatively much greater, proving that they occupied positions of greater danger, either from bullets or the fevers of the region. Morro Castle Taken. Five days after the arrival of the reinforcements, Lord Albemarle judged himself sufficiently strcmg to assault Morro Castle, and the word was accordingly given. The sunken ships were blown up early on the morning of July 25, and the British ships sailed into the fury (5(5 BUCCANEEKIXU IN THK SPANISH MAIN. of the Si)aiiish rannon, belcliiii":: shot from aJI aluuy the shore. The bi}:; yuns of the ships could uot be t-levatfd suttuieiitly to silence the fire from ilorro Castle, and this was accordiiifjly left to be can-ied by assault. The Tuutal was silenced, troojis landed, and aftvr five days of ferocious fighting, in which the British and American losses were enormous by reason of their exposcnl position, and where every one concerned exhibited the utmost valor, Morro Castle was carried by the bayonet. The fighting within its walls after an entry had been made Avas exceedingly fierce. The Manpiis of Gonzalez Avas killed hy liis tiwn cowardly men for refusing to surrender. The cannon from the other Spanish batteries were turned upon the Morro as soon as the Spanish tiag had been lowered, and the British ensign run up in its place; and then the slow and eated examples of giving a (ii]itiired city ovei- to plunder in the face of a stipulation to the con- tiary. August 14, 17(12, the British entered, the glory of tlieir victory over such heavy odds even then dimmed by the enormous unnlaiify. It was reckoned that the few days of August had wrought nntre damage to the invadiui; fnni's tlian all the weeks of hard labor and open assault which had gone befoic In the ( ity — the llavannali, as it was then called — treasuri" was found In llie amount of .$7,000,000, mm li of it in such shape that there had been abundant time to withdiaw it either to Spain or into the interior of the ishmd, had there been any other than Spaniards at the head of affairs. The occupancy of the British and colonial foi-ces lasted hut a few niniidis. I.nid .Mhcm.irle, with .-^llMLOdO of the jn-ize money as his per- BUCCANEEKING IN THE 81'ANKSn MAIN. 67 sonal share, received notice of the concliisu)ii of the treat}' of Paris and withdrew his anuy to Great Britain. A single ship sufficed to remove the shattered remnant of the soldiers from Connecticut, the Jerseys, and New York. Twentj'-three hundred sailed; barely fifty returned. It was a part of the good fortune of Ameilca — all of the good fortune, to be exact — which brought Colonel Isi'ael Putnam safely home again, though the paralysis which shortened his labors not many years after the Declaration of Independence was unquestionably due to his ex- posure to the vertical sun of Cuba and to the poisons of its i)estilential coast. In the hands of George III., then King of England, all this suffering and deprivation amounted to virtually nothing. He was a coward at heart, a man who could not even avail himself of such hardly gained victories. The peace of Paris was signed, and by its tenus George yielded up Cuba and the Philippines again to the power that has never ceased to misuse the advantages so obtained. CHAPTER V. COMMERCIAL DKNELOPMENT OF CUBA: Eirorts of the Early Govi-niors to Encourage Trade — Cultivaliou of Sugai One of the First Industries — Decret' Defining Powers of the Captain Oen- eral — Attenii)ted Annexation to the United States — The Ostend Mani- festo — Its ANonderful Predictions, in the Light of Later Events — Ex- ports and Imports Petween Cuba and Spain — The Future of Commer- cial ("iiba. The coninieire of Cuba Las grown in spite of the liniitatious that have been phiced upon it and not because of any encouragement that has been giveu to it. Columbus called (^iba the most bea'iitiful land that eyes had ever seen. Its resources, granted by a generous nature, have enabled it to recujx'rate after destructive warfare \Vith a rapidity sim- jdy ama7>ing to tliose accustomed only to the clinuite and the soil of the temi)erate zone. The immense industries of Cuba have been ham- pered fnmi the beginning by Si)anish oiii)ression and the fact that tliey have llourishcd under such unfavorable conditions is a striking evidence of what may be expected under a policy of encouragement and freedom. Sugar, tobacco, and other tropical products have made fortunes for Cuba every year, (»nly to have them stolen by Spanish olliceludders, sent tlu^re to idimder all they could get their hand.s upon. Willi jH-ace assured, the opportunities for the extension of indnstries in the "Pearl of the Antilles" will be enormous. The commercial develojunent of Cuba lias come tlirough centuries of ilislurbance, warfare, and o])i)ressiou. A simple catalogtie of all the evils with wliich the Ctibaus have had to c<(ntend would fill a voltime. All tiial can be done here is (o indicate briefly some of the more notable events in the history of the islaml after the Hiitish coiuiuests and the reliiM|uishment of the i>ri/.e to the Sjianish authorities ujMtn the return of ])eace. Near the end nf the last rent my tliei'e came a period whi(di o(Tereople in Havana who had beeu deiiendent upon the in- dustry. It was about the same time, or just a hundred years before the out- break of our war with Spain, that sugai" became an important article of general commerce. Even then, however, it was not an article of common consumption, and was held at extravagantly high prices, measured by the present cheapness of the article. Market reports of the time show that the price appi^oximated forty cents a pound, and this at a time when the purchasing power of money was at least twice as great as it is now. As the price has faJIen, the product and the con- sumption have increased, until of late years it has been an enormous source of revenue to the Island of Cuba. When Napoleon Bonaparte abducted the royal family of Spain and deposed the Bourbon dynasty in ISOS, every member of the provincial counsel of Cuba took an oath to preseiwe the island for their legitimate sovereign. The Colonial government immediately declared war against Napoleon and pro- claimed Ferdinand YII. as king. It was by this action that the colony earned its title of "The ever-faithful isle," which has been excellent as 70 COMMERCIAL DP:VEL()I'.M1:NT of CIHA. a couipliuientary {►bi-ase, but hardily ju.stilu'il by the actual facts. For some years followiuy this action, affairs iu the islauil were in an em- barrassing coudition, owing to the progress of the Napoleonic wars in Europe, which ki'iit ;ill trade disturbwl and Spain in a constant condi- tion of disorder. 11' ii liad not been for the fortunate election of one or two of the governurs things might have been even worse than they were, and it was considered that Cuba was enjoying quite as much l>eace and prosperity as were her neiglibor colonies and the mother governments of Europe. In 1S12 a negro conspiracy broke out and at- tained consion yon all the jiowers which by thi' royal ordinances are granted to the governors of liesiefjed cities. In conse- ipience of tliis, liis .Majesty ;.'ives to your Excellency I lie MKisI aiiiple and COMMERCIAL DEVELOPMENT OP CUBA. 71 unbounded power, not only to send away from the island any persons in office, whatever their occupation, rank, class, or condition, whose continuance therein your Excellency may deem injurious, or whose conduct, puhlic or private, may alarm you, replacing them with persons faithful to his Majesty and deserving of all the confidence of your Excellency; but also to suspend the execution of any order whatsoever, or any general provision made con- cei'ning any branch of the administration as your Excellency may Ihink most suitable to the Royal Service. This decree since that time has been substantially the supreme law of Cuba, and has never been radically modified by any concessions except those given as a last and lingering effort to pl'eserve the sov- ereignty of Spain, when after tlii'ee years' progress of the revolution she realized that her colony had slipped away from her authority'. The decree quoted in itself offers sufticient justification for the Cuban revolution in the name of libertv. Attempted Annexation to the United States. During the present centuiy there have been a. number of attempts on the part of men promiuent in public life, both in the Unite'd States and Cuba, to arrange a peaceable annexation by the purchase by this country of the island 'from Spain. Statesmen of both nations have been of the opinion that such a settlement of the difflculty would be mutually advantageous, and have used evei'v diplomatic endeavor to that end. During Thomas Jefferson's term of office, while Spain bowed .be- neath the yoke of France, from which there was then no prospect of relief, the people of Cuba., feeling themselves imcompetent in force to maintain their independence, sent a deputation to Washington, proposing the annexation of the island to the federal system of North America. In 1854 President Pearce instnicted Wni. L. Marcy, his Seci'etai-y of State, to arrange a conference of the Ministers of the United States to England, France and Spain, to be held with a view to the acquisi- tion of Cuba. The conference met at Ostend on the 9tli of October, 1854, and adjourned to Aix-la-Chapelle, where notes were prepared. Mr. Soule, then our Minister to Spain, said in a letter to Mr. Marcy, transmit- 72 ('(».MMi;iCtl.\I. l»i:VKL()l'.Mi:.\T OF CUBA. ting the joint report: "Tlii' (iin'stion of the iuquisition of Cuba by us is gaining ground as it grows to be more seriously agitated and con- sidered. Now is tlie niouient for us to be done with it, and if it is to bring upon us the cahunity of war, let it be now, while the great powers of this tontinent are engaged in that stupendous struggle wiiich eannot but engage all their strength and tax all their energies as long as it lasts, and may, before it ends, eonvulse them all. Neither Kngland nor France would be likely to Interfere with us. England could not bear to be suddenly shut out of our market, and see her iiKinufaetures paralyzed, even by a temporary suspension of her in- tercourse with us. And France, with the heavy task now on her hands, and when she so eagerly asi)ires to take her seat as the acknowledged chief of the European family, would have no induce- ment to a.ssume the burden of another war." The result of this conference is so interesting in its apidication to present conditions that its reproducticm is recjuired to make intel- ligible tlic wIkpIi- story of ("ul»a, and we give it here: The Osteiid Manifesto. Sir: The iiiidcrsigncd, in cnmiiliaiui' with the wish expressed by tlie incsidciit in the several confidential desjiatclies you have addressed to us respectively, to that eirect, we have met in coiifereijce, first at Ostend, in Hel- fjiuni. on the !»tli, lOlli. and lltli instant, and then at .Mxla-Chapelle, in Prus- sia, on the days next following, i\\) to the ilate hereof. There lias been a full and unreserved interchange of \ lews and seuti- nu-nts between us, which we are most liajipy to inform you has resulted in-u coi'dial coiiu'idence of opinion on the giave and impcu'tant subjects sub- mitted to our (-(Uisideratiiiii. Wo have ari'ived at the cdurjiisidn. and are tlin;;lily c(iiivinc((l lliat an iuuuediate and earnest elTort ought to lie made by llie goverumeni nf the I'nited States to purcliasi- ('uba from Sjiain at any i)rice f(U' whic li il can lie obtained, not exceeding the sum of ? 1'he proposal should, in our ojiinion. be niade in smli a nianiier as to be presented through the necessary (li|iloiiuitic forms to the Supreme Cou- Btituent Cortes abcuit to assend>le. On this nninu'ntous (pu-slion, in which the people, both of S]>ain and the I'nited States, are so deejdy interested, all our proceedings ought to 1 jien. fraid< and pidtlic. They sluiuld be of such a rhar.'icter as to challenge the a|i|)i'olialion of the w'orld. We firudy believe that, in the jiroj^ress of human events, the time has arrived when the vital interests of Spain are as seiioiisly involved in the HH SOLDIER'S GOOD BY cu.\^rKi;c;;.\o > >♦ N- 1- -SU-.Ot (.tt^N No. 2-THE BATTLE FLAGS OF THE FOURTEENTH REGIMENT N Y ARTILLERY (JOMMERt;iAL DEVELOl'MENT OF CUliA. > ^3 sale, as those of the United States in the i)urehase, of tlie ishmd, and that the transaction will prove equally honorable to both nations. Under these circurastances we cannot anticipate a failure, unless possibly through the malign infltience of foreign powers who possess no right what- ever to interfere in the matter. We proceed to state some of the reasons which have broiiglil us to this conclusion, and for the sake of clearness, we shall specify tliem under two distinct heads: 1. The United States ought, if practicable, to jiurelmse Cuba with as little delay as possible. 2. The probability is great that the government and Cortes of Spain will prove willing to sell it, because this would essentially promote the highest and best interests of the Spanish people. Then, 1. It must be clear to every reflecting mind that, from the pe- culiarity of its geographical position, and the considerations attendant on it, Cuba is as necessary to the North American republic as any of its present members, and that it belongs naturally to that great family of states of which the Union is the providential nursery. From its locality it commands the mouth of the Mississippi and the im- mense and annually increasing trade which must seek this avenue to the ocean. On the numerous navigable streams, measuring an aggregate course of some thirty, thousand miles, w'hich disembogue themselves through this magnificent river into the Gulf of Mexico, the increase of the population within the last ten j-ears amounts to more than that of the entire Union at the time Louisiana w'as annexed to it. The natural and main outlet to the products of this entire population, the highway of their direct intercourse with the Atlantic and the I'acilic States, can never be secure, but must ever be endangered whilst Cuba is a dependency of a distant power in whose possession it has proved to be a source of constant annoyance and embarrassment to their interests. Indeed the Union can never enjoy repose, nor possess reliable security, as long as Cuba is not embraced within its boundaries. Its immediate acquisition by our government is of paramount impor- tance, and we cannot doubt but that it is a consummation devoutly wished for by its inhabitants. The intercourse which its proximity to our coast begets and encourages between them and the citizens of the United States, has, in the progress of time, so united their interests and blended their fortunes that they now look upon each other as if they were one people, and had but one destiny. Considerations exist which render delay in the acquisition of this island exceedingly dangerous to the United States. The system of immigration and labor lately organized within its limits, 74 COMMERCIAL DEN'ELOl'.MKNT OP CURA. and fill' tyraunj' aud opiirt^ssion whit-li charartcrize its iiuincdiati' rulers threat*'!! a!i i!isurit'cti<)!! at every moi!ie!it, whiih may result in diin-ful coiisc quenc-es to the American jteojjh'. Cuba has thus become to us an unceasiii;; (lanj;or, and a iicnuanenl cause of anxiety and ahirm. liut we need not enlai'ffe on these to|iics. It can scarcely be aiijirelifiided that foreijcn jjowei's, i!i violaticm of international law, would interpose their inllueiice with S]iai!i to prevent our aiMjuisition of the island. Its inhabitants ai-e now sull'crinj,^ under the woi-st of all possible ririciph's under foot. Tlie Spanish government at home may be well disposed, but e.xperieuct? has ])roved that it cannot control these rmiole depositaries of its powei'. r.esides, the commercial nations ol' the world cau:iot fail to perceive a!id appreciate the };ieat advantages which would result to their peojile from a dissolution of the forced and unnatural connection between Spain and Cuba, aud the annexation of the latter to the United States. The trade of England and France with Cuba would, in that event, assume at once an impoitant and i>rolitable character, and lapiilly extend wiili the increasing pojiulalion ami jirosperily of the island. 2. IJiit if the riiiled Slates and every commercial nation would be benefited by this tiansfer, the interests of Sjiain would also be gieatly aud esHeutially promuled. She cannot but si'c lliat smh a siiiii of iiKiiiey as we arc willing to pay for the island would all'ect it in the development other vast natural resources. Two-thirds of this sum. if employed in the construction of a system of raili'ctads, would ultimately prove a .source of greater wealth to the Si)anish people than that opened to their vision by Cortex. Their prosjierity would date from the ratitication of the ticaty of cession. France has already constructi'd cdulinuous lines of railways from Havre, .Marseillis, \'alenciennes, and Strasburg, via I'aris, to the Spanish frontier, and anxiously awaits the day when Sjiain shall find herself in a condition to extend these roads through her nortlnrii piovinces to Madiid, Seville, Cadi/,, .Malaga, and the frontiers of I'ortugal. This object once accomplished. Spain would become a center of attrac- tii;\ KI.Ol'MKNT OF CU15A. fxt'cutf till.' iiL'Utralitv laws; but shoiilil llic Cubans tlu-nisi-lvi-s list- iu revolt a};aiust the ojUJicssion whiili they suller, no human jiower eould prevent citi- zens of the Uuiti-d Stales anil liberal minded men of other countries from rushing to their assistance. I'.esides, tlu- iirest'Ut is an aj^e of adventure in wiiicli restless and daring spirits abound in every portion of (he world. It is not iniju'obable. therefore, that Cuba may bi' wrttsfed from Spain by a successful revolution; and in that event she will lose both the island and the jirice which we are now williu},' to pay for it — a price far beyond what was ever paid by one [H-ople to another for any province. It may also be reuuirked that the settlement of this vexed (]Uestiou, by the cession of Cuba (o the United States, woidd Idievcr prevent the dauf^erous com|ilications ln-tweeii nations to whith it may ollierwise grandest bits of scenery in the known world is to be found in the valley of the Yumuri, rivaling in sublimity (he far-famed Look(»nl Mountain view and the Yosemite of the Sierra Nevadas. The journey leads over a winding trail, easilj' travei-sed by the native horses, up a steep hill, until, after a continuous climb of an hour and a half, the road turns around tho edge of a gra.ssy precipice, and the beautiful valley, with its patches of green and gold, spreads away in the distance. The little river of Yumuri winds its way tlirt)Ugh its (lower-decked baidis until it reaches (he bay beyond, while in the dis- tance rise the mighty mountains, clad in (heir coats of <>vergreen, anil over all (he (l(H'cy clouds, ami (he sky of azure blue. In (his vicini(y an r»jii>(ir(uiu(y is given (he sigh(-seer t(t visit a sugar house and gain an iilea of (ho sugar-making ])rocess, though on a very small scale, and ciiJDy a half an linnr in the study nf the n;ilives, and their home life. A traveler, in writing of (his jtlace, says: "Our interview with the li((le black Miinos' was highly amusing. On en(ering the (durt yard o|iulous villajie. "The linest and most {jorjicous sunsets occur in the West Indian Archipelajro durinji the rainy seasons. The sky is then subliniely mantled with <;i;,Mntic masses of cloud, {ilowiii};- with a tliou.sand ^or- <;eous dyes, ami seeming to collect at the close of day as thouj^h to form a <'ouch for the sun's rei>ose. In these he sinks, lloodiufj them with ;ilory, touchinj^ b<»th heavens and earth with {^old and amber brijihiness lonj; after he has fluufj his beams acro.ss the other hemi- sphere, or perhaj)s half revcjilinj,' himself throu i»encil of Claude Lor- laiiie. The atmosphere of Cuba, as everywhere within the tro])ics, e\c cpl when the hi.!^! winds ]>revail, is .so uii]i(dlnted. so thin, so elas- tic, so (irv, s(» .serene, and so almost iiiconccivaldy li:insp:ii-ciit and BEAUTIES OF A TKOnCAL ISLAND. 83 brilliant, that eveiy object is distinct and clearly defined as^ if cut out of the clear blue sky. All travelers agree in praising the calm depths of the intensely blue and gloriously bright skies of inter- tropical lati- tudes. In the temperate zone, it is estimated that about 1,000 stars are visible to the naJced eye at onie time; but here, from the increased elevation and wider extent of the vault, owing to the clearness of the atmosxihere, especially as seen from a high mountain chain, the num- ber is greatly augmented. If, however, these luminaries may not be seen here in greater numbers, they certainly shine with greater bril- liancy. The different constellations ai'e indeed so greatly magnified as to give the inii)ression that the power of the eye is increased. Venus rises like a little moon, and in the absence of the greater casts a dis- tinguishable shadow. "The Milky Way, which in the temperate zone has the appearance of a luminous phosphorescent cloud, and, as is well known, derives its brightness from the diffused light of myriads of stars condensed into so small s^jace that fifty thousand of them are estimated to i^^a^ss across the disc of the telescope in an hour, is here seen divided into oonstella- tions, and the whole galaxy is of so dazzling a. whiteness as to make it resemble a pure flame of silveiy light thrown across the heti-vens, turning the atmosphere into a kind of green transparenc.y. Besides this, there are vast masses of stellar nebuhe of indefinite diversity and form, oval, oblate, elliptical, as well as of different degrees of density, diffused over the firmament, and discoverable through a common tele- scope, all novel to an inhabitant of temperate climes, and recalling the exclamation of the psalmist: 'The heavens declare the glory of God. . . . the firmament showeth forth Ilis handiwork.' *■ 'The stars Are ckler script in'c, writ of (!od"s own hand, Scripture authentic, uncorrupt by man.' "An interesting phenomenon sometimes occui's here, as in other islands of the West Indies, which was long supposed to be seen only in the eastern hemisphere. A short time before sunrise or sunset, a flush of strong, white light, like that of the Aurora Borealis, extends from the horizon a considerable way up the zenith, and so resembles the dawn as to prove greatly deceptive to a stranger. As he watches the luminous track he sees it decrease instead of becoming more vivid, and at length totally disappear, leaving the heavens nearh" as dark as previous to its appearance. This is the zodiacal light.'^ ClIAl'TKi: VII. WEALTH FKOM NATUKE'8 STOIJKS IN THE FORESTS AND FIELDS OF crr.A. Tlie raliii Tivc, thi' (iiii'iii of tin- Ciiliaii Forests — Supir Cam- aud Its Culti- val idii — Tlic'Tobario Iiuliislry — Truiiiial Fruits au,(l(»ti acres of laml still remaininji perfeetly wild and uncultivated, nearly i;5,0(K),(IOO are uncleared forest. Maliojfany and other hard woods, such a.s the Cuban ebonv, cedar, and biiiblinj; are indii^enous, and are exported to a considerable extent. The ]»alm is the (|Ueen of the <'nbaii forests and is its most valuable tree. It urows in every jtart points. This hi-art, enveloped in wrappers of tender white leaves, makes a most delicious salad, and it is also boiled like cauliflower, and served with a f the j)alm ti-oe that is of j^reat utility. From it the native wrunen make the palm leaf hats that are worn by almo.st all the villagers and country people of Cuba. WEALTH FROM NATURE'S STORES. 85 Tropical Fruits in Abundance. The fruits of Cuba are those comiuou to the tropics. Bauauas, pine- apples, orauyes, lemons and bread-fruit all grow in abundance, deli- cious to the taste and delightful to the eye. Richard Henry Dana, Jr., after returning from a vacation trip to Cuba, wrote a charming description of a fruit garden that it was his good fortune to visit there: "The garden contained a remarkable variety of trees, including some thrifty exotics. Here the mango, with its peach-like foliage, was bending on the ground witli the weight of its ripening fruit; the alli- gator pear was mai-velgusly beautiful in its full blossom, suggesting, in form and color, the passion flower; the soft, delicate foliage of the tamarind was like our sensitive plant; the banana trees were in full bearing, the deep green fruit (it is ripened and turns yellow off the tree), being in clusters of a hundred, more or less, tipped at the same time by a single, pendent, glutinous bud, nearly as large as a pine- apple. The date palm, so suggestive of the far east, and the only one we had seen in Cuba, was re]>resented by a choice specimen, imported in its youth. There was also the star-apple tree, remarkable for its uniform and graceful shape, full of green fruit, with here and there a ripening specimen; so, also, was the favorite zapota, its rasty coated fruit hanging in tempting abundance. From low, broad spreading trees depended tlu^ grape fruit, as large as an infant's head and yellow as gold, while the orange, lime and lemon trees, bearing blossoms, green and ripe fruit all together, met the eye at every tuni, and filled the garden with fragrance. The cocoanut palm, with its tall, straight stem, and clustering fruit, dominated all the rest. C.uava, fig, custard apple, and brend-fmit trees, all were in bearing. "Our hos]»itnble host iducked freely of the choicest for the benefit of his chance visitors. Was there ever such a fruit garden before, or elsewhere? It told of fertility of soil and deliciousness of climate, of care, judgment, and liberal expenditure, all of which combined had turned these half a dozen acres of land into a Can Eden. Through his orchard of Hesperides, we were accompanied also by the proprietoi-'s two lovely children, under nine years of age, with such wealth of promise in their large black eyes and sweet faces as to fix them on our memory with photographic fidelity. Before leaving the garden we returned with our intelligent host once more to examine his beautiful 86 WEALTH FROM NATURE'S STORES. speiimous of banauas, w iii( li, with its sister finiit, the plantain, forms so important a staple of fruit iu Cuba and tliroujjhout all tropical re«;ious. It seems that the female banana tree bears moi"e fniit than the male, but not so larj^e. The avera^'e ilustei"s of the former com- prise here about one hundred, but the latter rarely bears over sixty or seventy distinct sjiecimens of the cucumber-shaptHl product. From the center of its lar^'c, broad leaves, wliii h jiather at the toj), when it has reached the heij^iit ttf twelve or lifteeu feet, there sprin.ns forth a lar}j;e purple bud ten inches hm^, shapeil like a hujje accirn, though more pointed. This cone iianj;s sus]Kiided from a stronj; stem, ujwn which a leaf unfolds, displayiuj;- a cluster of ^ouug fruit. As soon a.s the.se are large enough to supjMul tiie heat of the sun and the chill of the rain, this sheltering leaf drops off, and another uufidds, exposing its little brood of fruit; aJid so the i)rocess goes on, until six or eight rings of young bananas are st;irterouts uj) again frcsli from tlie roots. I'roui the unripe fruit, dried in tiie sun, a palat- iil)li- :inil nutritions Hour is made." The Tobacco Industry. Cuban tobacco is fanuuis thioughout tlie worhl, and is one of the most protitable of all its jtroducts. Trior to ITMl the crop was s<'Ut to the national factories in Spain, liy (lie "Couunercial (\)m])any of Havana," under gtivernmeut conlrai t, hut during that year tlu' "Fac- toria de Tobacco" was established in Havana by tiie government. The tobacco was classilieacco produccil, we lind tluil tiie "I'acloria" paid an average price of .'<1<; per liundred i»ounds fctr the leaf tobacco. With the exix'use of manufacture, the i-igai-s cost the government .seventy-five cents iwr poiMul; snuff, fine grain and good color, foi-ty-three cent.s, and com- mon soft, or Seville, nineteen cents a pound in Havana. In good years, wiien tlie crop amounted to 3r.0,000 arrobes of leaf, 12S,()()(» arrobes were manufactured for Spain, .S(),(»0(> for Havana, 9,200 for Peru, G,000 WEALTH FROM NATURE'S STORES. 87 for Buenos Ayres, 2,240 for Mexico, and 1,1(10 for Caracas and Cam- peachy. In order to make up the amount of 3ir),000 ari'obe.s, (for the crop loses ten per cent, of its weight, in loss and damage in the transporta- tion and manufacture) we must suppose that 80,000 arrobes were con- sumed in the interior of the island; that is, in the country, where the royal monopoly did not extend. The maintenance of 120 slaves and the expenses of manufacture did not exceed |12,000 yearly; but the salaries of the officers of the "Factoria" amounted to |o41,000. The value of the 128,000 aiTobes of tobacco sent to Spain, in the abundant years, either in cigai*s, leaf or snuff, at the customary prices there, exceeded the sum of five milliou dollars. It is surprising to see in the returns of the exports from Havana (documents published by the Consulado), that the exports for 1816 were only 3,400 arrobes; for the year 1823, only 13,900 arrobes of leaf tobacco; and in 1825 only 70,302 pounds of cigai-s and 107,100 pounds of leaf tobacco and strips; but we must remember that no branch of the contraband trade is more active than that in cigars. The tobacco of the Vuelta de Abajo is the most celebrated, but large quantities are exported which are produced in other parts of the island. ' The cultiva- tion of tobacco has been one of the most uncertain branches of indus- try in Cuba. Trammeled by restrictions and exactions, it was con- fined almost entirely to the poorer classes of the population, who were enabled to raise a scanty and uncertain crop through the advances of capital made them by the "Factoria." Since the suppression of this monopoly, it has had to contend with the more popular and profitable pursuit rice of siig;ir renders e<'onomy imperative in all br;inilies of the business, in order to le;ive a. margin for jirolil. "A iihinier ini'ornied the ;inllinr iluit he slmnld siireiid nil nl' liis niolassi's upon the cane fields this yenr as a fertilizer, rather lliiin send it to a distiinl in;irket, and re<-eive only what it cost. He further said that thousamls of acres of sugar caiu' wouhl be allowerice of sugar reiiwiined this year at a figure which would afford the |»l;inlers a fair i»rofil, it might have been the means of tiding over the chasm of bankrui»tcy which has long stared them in the face, and ui»on the brink of which they now stand, lint with a more than average cro|», both :is to i|Uiintity and (piality, whether to gather it or not is a problem. Iinlei- tliese rin unistances it is difficult to s;iy what WEALTH FROM NATURE'S STORES. 89 is to become, financially, of tJie people of ('uba. Sugar is tlieir great staple, but all business has been equally suppressed upon the island, under the bane of civil laws, extortionate taxation, and oppressive rule. "The sugar cane yields but one crop a year. There are several varieties, but the Otaheitan seems to be the most generally cultivated. Between the time when enough of the cane is ripe to warrant the get- ting up of steam at the grinding mill, and the time when the heat and the rain spoils its qualities, all the sugar for the season must be made, hence the necessity for gTeat industry on large estates. In Louisiana the gxinding lasts but about eight weeks. In Cuba it continues four months. In analyzing the sugar produced on the island, and compar- ing it with that of the main land, the growth of Louisiana, chemists could find no difference as to the quality of the time saccharine prin- ciple contained in each. "The great sugar estates lie in the Vueltra Arriba, the region of the famous red earth. The face of this region smiles with prosperity. In every direction the traveler rides astonished through a garden of plenty, equally impressed by the magnificent extent, and the profuse fertility of the estates, whose palm avenues, plantain orchards, and cane fields succeed each other in almost unbroken succession. So pro- ductive are the estates, and so steady is the demand for tlie planter's crop, that the great sugar planters are, in truth, princes of agriculture. "The imposing scale of operations on a great plantation, imparts a character of barbaric regal state to the life one leads there. Look- ing at them simply as an entertainment, the mills of these great sugar estates are not incongruous with the easy delight of the place. Every- thing is open and airy, and the processes of the beautiful steam ma- chinery go on without the odors as without the noises that make most manufactories odious. In the centrifugal process of sugar maJcing, the molasses pa.sses into a large vat, by the side of which is a row of double cylinders, the outer one of solid metal, the inner of wire gauze. These cylinders revolve each on an axis attached by a horizontal wheel and band to a .shaft which communicates with the central engine. The' molasses is ladled out into the spaces between the exter- nal and internal cylinders, and the axes are set in motion at the rate of nineteen hundred revolutions a minute. For three nnnutes you see only a white indistinct whirling, then the motion is arrested, slowly and more sloAvly the cylinders revolve, then stop, and behold! the W'hole inner surface of the inner cylinder is covered with beautiful 90 WKALTII FROM XATL'KE'.S STOKES. nicius ]>r()ccss, I uscil to faiicv that somewhat in this wise might tiie nebuhe of space he shiwlv fashioiiiiii; into worlds." How Cuba Has Been Robbed by Spain. Some Icnowktlge of the enonuous wealth that has aconiwl to Spain from her Cnban possessions may be gaiueil from tlie following quota- tion from "Cuba and the Cubans," published in New York in 1850 by Haimundo Cabrera : "Oh, we are truly rich! "From 1S12 to 1820, (^iba, with her own resources, covered the exiienilitures of the treasury. Our (i|)ulence dates from that periwl. ^\■e had already suHlcieut negro .-slaves to cut down our virgin forests, and ample authority to force them to work "By means of our vices and our luxuiT, and in spite of the hatred of everything Sjiainsh, which Jloreno attributinl to u.s, we sent, in 1827, the tir.st little million of hard cash to the treasury of the natron. From that time until 18(14 we continued to send yearly to the mother couuti"j- two millions and a half of the same stulT. According to sev- eral S]>anish statistician.**, these sums amouutetl, in 18(>4, to §80,107,- 287. \\i' Wire \,175 cattle ranche.s, 18 cocoa plantations, .35 cotton jdantatiiuis, 22,748 pnuluce fanu.s, 11,737 truck fanu.s, 11,541 tobacco ]ilantatious, 1,731 apiaries, 1.53 count ry resorts, 243 distilleries, 4(i8 tile works, 504 lime kilns, 03 charcoal fur- naces, 54 cassava-breatl fas his raiment pos.sess the Rlory of Solomon'.s, for it generally consists of a i)air of loose trousers, belteand, a linen shirt of brilliant line, fre<|u<'Utly woiu outside his panl;i- looiis, a silk handkerchief fa.sfenej up the rear are the inhabitants, marchin}; and sinjjinf; to the music of the band. When the church is reacluNl, tJie pcH)ple gather about the child, and she i-ecites a composition written for the occa- sion. Dui'injx cai-irnal time, processions (')f niountehaiiks, c-avaliers, dressed as knij;hts of old, on horses splendidly adorned, race.s, mas(|ues, balls and all manner of rcncdric^s are iuduljied in. Danciui,^ is a universal accomi)lisliinent, in which the younjj; and old llnd enjoyment in all i)laces and at all seasons. The Zapato, a dance peculiar to (^iba, is performed to the music of the <;uitar, accom- jiaiiied by the voices of the dancers. It consists of fantastic posiups, fancy marclics, and firaceful fijiures, and resembles in some details llic "cake walks" of the nej^rocs eclators uiicovcr tlieir heads at tiie i)assing of a funeral cortege. At the church ai-e ceremo- nies of reading prayer.s, burning candle.s, aud sprinkling the coUin with holy water, after which the prie.st goes his way, and the proces- sion takes up its line of march for the newly-made grave, in the dilapi- females are jiresent during the whole affair. A family in mo\irning in Cuba, not only dress in dark HOW TllKV LIVE. L'lul. Ni'ithiT slijill lie imblisliid au,v tt'k'jj;r;ipliic coiiimuniLalious of a [Kilitical eliaracfer without the authoiitv jtiveii hv the secretaiv of the jjov- enior ;;enei'al in Havana, or l»y the civil ollitfrs in the other provinces. ;{rd. It is hereliy forbidden to pulilisli anv editorials, or other articles or illustrations, whiril, 1870. otb. All persons referred to in Article 14 of the IVnal Code of (be reninsula, which is in force in this Island, will be held responsible for said infractious in the same order as established by the said Article. ()th. Whenever a newsjiaper has twice incurred the penalty of said olTense, and shall j^ive cause for a third penalty, it may be then suiipressed. 7th. The civil fjovernors are in char<;e of the fultillment of this decree, and a;;ainsl their resolutions, which must be always well founded, the inter- ested ]iarties may ajipial wiiliiu twenty four jmurs foMowinn their notitica- tinn. VALEHIANO WEVLEH. Havana, April L'7. IS'.m;. Population of the Island. ( "(inliiflin;^ accounts leiidei' it iin]i(issil)le to arrive at anything lik(? a certainty as to the ininiber of iiiliabitanls in ( 'iiha, at (he time of its coiKinest, but it. may be estimated at from :{()(»,()0() (o 400,000. Tliore is but little doubt, howtnor, that before 1."(I0 (be whole of tiiis popula- tion liad disappeared from the island. The tirst census was taken in 177», wlien the pnj.iilation wa.s 171,(;-Jii. In ITIH it was 272,:i00. Owin;;- to (he disdirbed condKioii nf ilic isbiixl, no censii.s of (ho inbabitaiits has been (akeij since (ha( of lss7, when (be total popula- (inn was l,t;:H,(;S7. Of (his nnmlter, 1,11 1,:{0;{ were whites, and .")20,(5S4 were of nef^ro blood. These liirtires make (|ues(ionable (be art of tiie liarbor. Perfect Sanitary Condition Easily Created. Tiie shallow harbor of Havana has its entrance from the ocean through a channel hardly more than three hundred yards wide, and nearly half a mile long, after which it bioadens and ramifies until its area becomes several srpiare miles. No fresh water stream, large or small, Hows into it to pui-ify the waters. The harbor entrance is so nar- row, and the tiiles along that coast iiave so little rise and fall, that the level of water in liu' harbor hardly shows jierceptible change day after day. Tin- resnil of i his is lli;it llic (onslanl iiillow of sewage from tlie gi'eat city pouring into the harbor is never dilnled, and tlii-ougli tlie summer is simply a festering mass of corruption, fronting the whole sea wall and tliMiwiiig a stenili into the air wliich must be breathed by everyoiu' on shiiiboard. There is one ]»art of the harbor known as "dead man's hole," from which it is said no siiii) has ever sailed aflei- an aneiiorage of more HAVANA, THE METROPOLIS OF THE LSLAND. 101 than one day, without beai-iug the infeetiou of yellow fever anioug its crew. Along, the shores of this vei-y harbor are great warehouses for the sugar and tobacco shipped into the United States by the thousands of tons every year. To preserve our national health, our government has maintained an expensive marine hospital service and quarantine sys- tem along our southern ports which trade with Havana, in addition to supporting a marine hospital seiTice under the eminent Dr. Burgess in Havana itself. To the rigid enforcement of this system, and the untiring vigilance of Dr. Burgess, must be credited the immunity which the United States has had from annual epidemics of yellow fever and small- pox. The guilt of Spain in permitting this shocking condition to continuej cannot in any way be palliateil. For four hundred years she has had sway in the island, free to work her own will, and drawing millions of dollars of surplus revenue out of the grinding taxes she has imposed. The installation of a sanitary system of sewage, which should discharge into the open sea instead of into this cesspool which lies at the city's feet, would have been the first solution of the difficulty. The threat of danger would have been finally averted by the expenditure of a few hundred thousand dollars, which would open a channel from the further ex- tremity of the harbor to the ocean eastward. The distance is but a few miles and the engineering problem a simple one. This and the con- struction of a jetty northwestward from the point on which Morro Castle stands, woiild divert a portion of the current of the noble gulf stream into the hai"bor entrance, and the foul pond of to-day would be scoured of its filth by a perennial fiood which could never fail. Vera Cruz, on the Mexican coast, has proven that it is possible to ex- terminate yellow fever, and it is a duty owed to civilization that Havana shall follow along the same path. If all other excuses were to be ig- nored, the United States for years has had ample cause for intervention in Cuban affairs, as a measure of safety to the health of her own citizens, as truly as one man may complain to the authorities if his neighbor maintains a nuisance in the adjoining yard. The Business Quarters of Havana. Once anchored in the safest place in the harbor, the mail steamers are surrounded without delay by a fleet of peculiar boats of a sort seen only in the bay of Havana. For a bit of silver, the traveler is taken 102 HAVANA. TlIK M KTltc U'Ol.lS (iF TIIK ISl.ANI). usluiiv, the jouniey to llic l;uiilin>; staf^c l)i'iii|)li' liber known as ni]ie cloth, are an indication of tiie variety that may be found. The shoes and other articles of men's and women's clolliing are nearly all diiiri ini|iortations from Paris, and where I'ansian styles dominate one may be assureil that the seleition is not a. scanty one. Clerks ai'e coui'teous evi-n In I lie t radilional point ofCastilian obscnpiionsness, and altogetlicr a shopping ex|>edition along this Obispo street is an exju'ri- eiice to be remendtered with jth-asure. HAVANA, THE METROPOLIS OF THE ISLAND. 103 Havana Homes. You notice that everything is made to serve comfort and coolness. Instead of having panes of glass, the windows are open and guarded by light iron railings, and the heavy wooden doors are left ajar. You see into many houses as you pass along, and very cool and clean they look. There are marble floors, cane-seated chairs and lounges, thin lace cur- tains, and glimpses of courts in the center of each building, often with green jdants or gaudy flowers growing in them between the parlor and the kitchen. You find much the same plan at your hotel. You may walk in at the doors or the dining room windows just as you please, for the sides of the house seem capable of being all thrown open; while in the center of the building you see the blue sky overhead. Equally cool do all the in- habitants appear to be, and the wise man who consults his own comfort will do well to follow the general example. Even the soldiers wear straw hats. The gentlemen are clad in uudenvear of silk or lisle thread and suits of linen, drill or silk, and the ladies are equally coolly ap- parelled. Havana is a dressy place, and you will be astonished at the neatness and style to which the tissue-like goods worn there are made to conform. But come and see the apartment you are to rest in every night. Ten to one the ceiling is higher than you ever saw one in a private house, and the huge windows open upon a balcony overlooking a verdant plaza. The floor is of marble or tiling, and the bed is an ornate iron or brass affair, with a tightly stretched sheet of canvas or fine wire netting in place of the mattress you ai'e used to. You could not sleep on a mat- tress with any proper degree of comfort in the tropics. There is a canopy with curtains overhead, and everytliing about the room is i)retty certain to be scrupulously clean. Conspicuous there and everywluM'e else that you go is a rocking chair. Rocking chairs are to be found in tiu^ houses, and in regiments in the clubs. Havana is the metropolis of the West Indies. It has more life and bustle than all the rest of the archipelago put together. If you are German, English, Scotch, Dutch, American, French or whatever you are, you will find fellow counti'ymen among its 250,000 souls. There is a public spirit there which is rare in these climes. The theaters a.stonish you by their size and elegance. The ai'istocratic club is the Union, but 104 HAVANA, Till-: METHUl'OLIS OF THE ISLAND. the pdpular one is the Casino Espanol, whose club house is a marvel of tropical ele<;auce and beaut}'. Nearlj- all these attractions are on or m-ar the broad, shad}- and iniposinj^ thoroughfare, the Prado — a suc- cession of i>arks leading; from the wati-r npjxisite Morro Castle almost across the city. In one or another of these parks u niilitaiy band plays on three eveninjifs of the week, ajid the scene on such occasions is wholly new to Kn;^Iish eyes. It is at such times that one may see the beautiful Spanish and Cuban women. They do n«)t leave thc^ir houses in the heat of tlie day unless something requires them to do so, and when they do they remain in their cari'iages, and are accompanietl by a servjtnt or an elder- ly companion. So strict is the privacy with which they are surrounded that you shall see them shopping without quitting their carriages, waites, and notice that they are two stories high, and that the family a]>ai1ments are on the upper stories, so that y<»u miss the furtive views of the families at meals and of the ladies recliidng in the broad- tiled window sills that y(»u have in the older (tne-story sections of the (it v. CHAPTER X. THE CITIES OF CUBA. The Harbor of Matanzas— Sports of the Carnival — Santiago de Cuba and Its Beautiful Bay — Cardiuas, the Commercial Center — Enormous Exports of Sugar — The Beauties of Trinidad — Other Cities of Importance. The city of Havana may be said to stand in the same relation to Cuba that Paris does to France, for in it are centered the culture, the refinement, and the wealth of the island, but there are several other towns of considerable importance, and many of them have become places of interest since the struggle for liberty has attracted the atten- tion of the civilized world. Chief among these is Matanzas. This city, with a normal popula- tion of about 00,000, is situated fifty miles east of Havana, with which it is connected by rail and water. Its shipping interests are second only to those of the capital, as it is the outlet of many of the richest agricul- tural districts of the island. The city is situated on the flats on both sides of the San Juan river, which brings down large quantities of mud and greatly impedes inland navigation. As an offset the bay is spacious, easy of access and shel- tered from the violent gulf storms which prevail at some seasons. This makes the port a favorite with marine men. A large amount of money has been spent by the government to fortify and protect the city, and it has been connected by rail with all the principal towns and producing centers of the provinces. Thus it is a particularly favorite port of entry for all the supplies required in the plantations — food stajiles and ma- chinery. Its exports consist principally of sugar, coffee, molasses, to- bacco, honey, wax and fmits. The city is built principally' of masonry and in a most substantial manner, though little effort has been made to secure architectural beauty. The pride of the city is the new theater, which is pointed out as the handsomest building in Cuba. The Empresa Academy also takes rank equal with any for the excellence of its educational facilities. There is no more charming spot in Cuba than Matanzas. The bay 105 106 THE CITIES <)F (UHA. is like a crescent in shape, jiml receives the witters of the I'umuri and Matauzas rivers, two small uuuavigable streams. A high bridge sepa- rates them. On this ridge back of the town stiiuds a catheilral dedicated to the bhick virgin. It is a reproduction of a cathedral in the Balearic Islands. The view from its steeple is magnitiient. Looking backward the valley of the Yiimuri stretches to the right. It is about ten miles wide and sixty miles long, dcttted with palms, and as level as a barn lloor. The Yumuri breaks through the mountiiius near Matanzas bay something like the Arkansas river at Canon City. (\ir[>eti'd witli living green and surrouiiticd witli iriniiiilaiiis this valley is mii' cpf ihc gems of Cuba. About ten miles from Matanzas, on the left of the road, stand what are known as the Breadloaf Mountains. They rise from the plain like the Spanish peaks in Colorado. These mountiiins are the headquarters of Cieiieral BetancouH, who commands the insurgents in the province. Tlie Sjianiards have olTered ?1,()(I0 reward for his head. Several efforts have been made to secure it. Imi in ;ill cases the would-be captoi- has lost his own head. In accordance with the Weyler edict 11,000 reconcentrados were herded t,0(Mi people have jx-nshed from starvation antl incident disea.ses since the order went into efTect. But all the people of Matanzas are not reconcentrados, and even in tlie midst of war's alarms they tind time for amusement, as the fol- Inwing ilescription of a carnival liall will prove: "It was our good fortune to be in .Matanzas during the last three days of (he Carnival; and while the whole time was occupieil !)y noisy processiiius and gitites(|ue street mas(|ueraders, the crowning cere- innnies were (in the last Sunday night. Then the whole town used every elTiiit to wiml up (he season in a 'feu de joie' of pleasure and amusement. In almost everv (own of any impoilance there is an associnlion df young men, generally known as 'Kl Liceo,' oiganized for artistic and literary purposes, and for social recreation. A line large building is generally occupied by the association, with ample sjiace for theatncal representa- ti(»ns, balls, etc.; in addition (o which there are billiard ro(tms, and read- ing rnimis, adorned, probably witli fine iiaintings. In Matiinzas (his THE CITIES OF CUBA. 107 association is IcTiown as 'EI Liceo Artistico y Literario de Matanzas,' and is a pai-tieularly fine one, being composed of the elite of the city, with a fine large honse, to which they made an addition by pnrchasing the 'Club,' beautifully situated upon the Plaza. "Thanks to our letter of introduction, we were, through the kind offices of the members, permitted to enjoy the pleasui'es of their grand ball, called the 'Pinata,' which was indeed a very grand affair, attended by the beauty and fashion of Matanzas. The ball commenced at the seasonable hour of 8 o'clock in the evening; and at entering, each one was required to give up his ticket to a committee of managers, who thus had a kind of general inspection of all those admitted. "The ball room was a long, large hall, at the other end of which was a pretty stage for theatrical representations; on each side of the room was an arched colonnade, over which were the galleries, where the band was posted. Ranged in double rows of chairs the full length of the room in front of the colonnade, sat hundreds of dark-eyed angels, calm, dignified, and appearing, most of them, to be mere lookers on; not a black coat among them. All of these, with the exception of a few courageous ones that were facing all this beauty, were huddled to- gether at the other end of the room, wanting the courage (it could not be the inclination) to pay their respects to 'las Senoritas.' "What is exactly the trouble in Cuba between the gentlemen and the ladies I never have been able to quite understand. The men are polished and gentlemanly, as a general thing — sufficiently intelligent, apparently; while the ladies are dignified and pretty. And yet I have never seen that appearance of easy and pleasant intercourse between the sexes which makes our society so charming. "I am inclined to believe that it is the fault of custom, in a great degree, which surrounds women in Cuba with etiquette, iron bars and formality. This would seem to apply to the natives only, for nothing can be kinder, more friendly and courteous than the manners of the Cuban ladies to strangers, at least, judging from what is seen. It may be as a lady with whom I was arguing the point said: 'It is very differ- ent with strangers, Senor, and particularly with the Americans, who are celebrated for their chivalric gallantry to ladies.' Now I call that a very pretty national compliment "Taking the arm of my friend, we walk up and down to see, as he expresses it, 'who there is to be presented to,' and faith, if beauty is to be the test, it would seem to be a hard matter to make up one's mind. 108 THE CITIES OF Cl'DA. there is so iinuli of it, but after a turn or two around the room, tliis form is {jone tlirou^li witli, auport unity afforded to the ladies to crown a king. The whole ceremony is pretty, and creates much merriment and atnusement. "This ceremony over, at mirlnight we sally out inlo liic open air. 15ut what a sight greets us there! Lights blaze in such profusion that it seems more than day. Mtisic and dancing iire everywhere. Songs an