Class_^/)-s!5yJ 
 Book .,D t.^ 
 
 CopyrightN?. 
 
 COPYRIGHT DEPOSm 
 
WINTER RHUBARB 
 
 CULTURE AND 
 MARKETING 
 
 BY 
 
 REGINALD BLAND 
 
 SAN LUIS REY, CAL. 
 191 5 
 
^^t^ 
 
 Copyrighted 1915 
 REGINALD BLAND 
 
 i^:-'',. ^ 
 
 ©aA41l734 
 
 MAY 2^ 1915 
 
FOREWORD. 
 
 This little book was first undertaken in response to a 
 number of requests for information on the culture and 
 marketing of Winter Rhubarb. 
 
 It has been difficult to restrain the scope of this work 
 within the limits necessarily imposed by lack of time, be- 
 cause the subject has not hitherto received the treatment its 
 importance merits. The natural temptation has been to 
 proceed to the full elaboration of this curiously neglected 
 subject. This would require so much more time than the 
 writer can command at present that he has been compelled 
 to choose between the alternatives of early publication of 
 the present rough sketch or an indefinite postponement to 
 allow a fuller and more finished treatment. The accumula- 
 tion ot inquiries has led to the rather reluctant choice of the 
 former alternative. 
 
 This is the only apology offered for the inevitable short- 
 comings of the book, especially as regards the lack of more 
 historical and statistical information, which shortcomings 
 it may be possible to remedy at some future time by issuing 
 a second volume. 
 
 No apology is made for the introduction of matter con- 
 troversial of ''plant-breeders' " claims. Effort has been 
 made to confine all statements to strictly first-hand exper- 
 ience and, whatever the possibility of error in one's judg- 
 ment, the fact that hearsay evidence has not been admitted 
 without confirmation has done somewhat to limit that possi- 
 bility. 
 
 The lengthy quotation from Mr. P. M. Kiely's "South- 
 ern Shipper's Guide" has been introduced in the chapter on 
 marketing because the matters dealt with therein are es- 
 sential to our subject. As illustrating the point of view of 
 the best class of commission merchants, it was deemed best 
 to include this as a direct quotation. 
 
 If subsequent editions of this book are found desirable, 
 
effort will be made to broaden the treatment of its various 
 subjects. To this end the writer earnestly solicits the cor- 
 respondence of all whose experience has led to conclusions 
 differing or concurring with his own as here set down. It 
 is recognized that diverse soil and climatic conditions may 
 require methods of treatment or culture wholly outside of 
 the writer's personal experience and any information on 
 these matters will be most gratefully received. 
 
Chapter I. 
 ^.^ RHUBARB— AND WINTER RHUBARB. 
 
 Rhubarb (genus Rheum) belongs to the Polygonaceae 
 or Buckwheat family. This is the sole family in the order, 
 Pohjgonales, but comprises such widely differing genera as 
 Smartweed, Knot Grass, Buckwheat, Sorrel, Dock and Rhu- 
 barb. 
 
 There are said to be about forty different species of 
 rhubarb, covering a wide range of growth, form, color and 
 inflorescence. They are all supposed to be natives of Cen- 
 tral Asia, their natural range having extended from the 
 Himalayas to parts of Siberia and Western Asia, one spe- 
 cies. Rheum Rhaponticum, our familiar garden rhubarb, 
 being native as far west as the Valley of the Volga. 
 
 It has been cultivated for thousands of years in China 
 and Tibet for a medicine derived from its dried and pre- 
 pared roots. It had a place in Chinese materia medica as 
 early as 3000 B. C. and for its cathartic, astringent and 
 stomachic qualities was exported considerably to Europe 
 for several centuries past. In the latter half of the 18th 
 century rhubarb culture was tried experimentally in Eng- 
 land by an apothecary named Hayward but, though he suc- 
 ceeded in producing a fair quality of medicine, being award- 
 ed silver and gold medals by the Society of Arts, still it was 
 far inferior to the imported article and not much com- 
 mercial development was made. The true Rheum Officinale 
 or medicinal rhubarb was securely guarded in the sacred 
 land of Tibet as was also the process of preparation. 
 
 The plant had appeared in England a couple of cen- 
 turies before Hayward's time, little use having been made 
 of it however, though it is stated that the leaves were used 
 as a potherb in the days of good Queen Bess. This use must 
 have had its limitations. I am minded of a gentleman who, 
 passing my ranch some years ago, paused to marvel at the 
 rhubarb and ended by taking an armful home to his wife. 
 
Abou'c a week later he drove in, looking exceedingly pale 
 and spirituelle. Answering my inquiry as to his health he 
 yaia, No, not exactly sick, but well, you know, I guess we 
 didn t fix that rhubarb right, or mebbe we et too much, us 
 not being used to it." It developed that he had removed the 
 stems and fed them to the pigs and that his wife had pre- 
 pared the leaves by boiling them like spinach. They both 
 being hungry, had eaten heartily of their "spinach." As the 
 gentleman said, "You know, it didn't taste half bad." From 
 his further relation, however, I have concluded that rhubarb 
 greens could never become so very popular for a steady diet 
 — not even in Queen Elizabeth's day. 
 
 Its present familiar culinary use, making sauces, pies, 
 puddings and other desserts from its cooked stems with 
 the addition of sugar, is of comparatively recent date. 
 
 About fifty years ago Rhubarb was introduced on quite 
 a large scale into the United States, being widely heralded 
 as the "Great American Wineplant." This exploitation was 
 naturally destined to end in a fizzle because the average 
 sugar content of rhubarb stems is less than two-tenths of 
 one per cent and buying sugar to make the alcohol had its 
 disadvantages against the competition of the grape, which 
 manufactures its own sugar. But while the craze lasted a 
 wide distribution of the plant was made, particularly 
 through the New England States. For a time promoters 
 vied with one another in the "production" of new and sur- 
 prising "varieties," brought about by the natural variabil- 
 ity of rhubarb seedlings. As in more recent times, those 
 early propogators would talk mysteriously about selection 
 and breedmg and hybridizing, claiming that the wonderful 
 variety they had produced had been born of back-breaking 
 toil and midnight oil spread over a long series of years of 
 patient experiments — "until at last," etc. They had long, 
 thin rhubarb; short, fat rhubarb; giant rhubarb; dwarf 
 rhubarb ; rhubarb smooth, rough, tender, tough, green, yel- 
 low, pink, red, purple, plain, striped, spotted, and (but this 
 I am constrained to doubt) ringstraked! If these last did 
 
exist I can readily believe they must have been bred by 
 Jacob's system — ''when they came down to drink." Fancy 
 prices indeed were paid for these fancy "varieties"^ — until 
 the bubble bursted, whereupon the wineplant market be- 
 came inactive, in fact, it died. Naturally interest lan- 
 guished. Besides, certain serious matters engaged the at- 
 tention of the nation about that time so that there was prob- 
 ably not much worrying over ''wineplant." 
 
 But surviving the national vicissitudes, from war to 
 wineplant, one venerable institution endured unshaken. I 
 refer of course to the Great American Pie. The thrifty and 
 inventive New^ England housewife was quick to discover a 
 virtue in the disgraced and rejected wineplant and as 'Tie- 
 plant" it entered upon a career, less spectacular but more 
 enduring than its former one, for now instead of being con- 
 demned for its deficiency of sugar it was for that very rea- 
 son glorified. After a winter of cellar-stored and frozen 
 vegetables, buckwheat cakes and syrup, mince pies and pies 
 made from fruits "put up" in syrup the previous summer- 
 altogether a diet which hardly needed the added fuel of close, 
 artificially heated air (not forgetting the intimate part 
 played by flannel underwear) to beget a very flame of de- 
 sire for things fresh and acid — after even the supplies of 
 preserved fruit had dwindled and given out, except in the 
 larders of the most prudent— Friend Rhubarb achieved his 
 destiny by sending up his crisp shoots into the smiling sun- 
 shine of the earliest spring. The first rhubarb pie of the 
 season marked a festival day and spring house-cleaning was 
 in order. 
 
 Of course a money value soon attached to this first 
 rhubarb and extravagant prices were paid for that which 
 appeared earliest on the market. Methods were devised 
 for forcing it in cellars and hot houses and fortunes were 
 made by those who engaged in this trade. Still great labor 
 and expense was entailed and little effort was made to sup- 
 ply any but local markets. 
 
 In about 1895 Mr. Luther Burbank introduced a winter 
 
8 
 
 growing rhubarb from Australia, where it was known as 
 Topp's Winter Rhubarb. About five years later the '^tDck 
 resulting from his experiments was sold by him to the trade 
 in 1900, under the name of Burbank's Crimson Winter^ Rhu- 
 barb. I am unable to find any record of Mr. Burbank's ac- 
 tual experiments in this connection, but subsequent '^study 
 of the plant has proved that it is tfdt a hybrid. • - -■ 
 
 It is evident that a good selection was made from Topp's 
 seedlings, being thereafter fixed ih the usual manner by 
 root division. The plant so produced had a w^onderfiil po- 
 tential value and California is certainly gre^/tlj)' indebted 
 to Luther Burbank for its introduction."^ jK! 
 
 This is evidently a distinct species — it differs from the 
 summer varieties of rhubarb in several impdrtant char- 
 acteristics. The principal physical difference is in its root 
 system. The hitherto familiar varieties have a thick, fleshy 
 lump of root substance, formed very close to the surface of 
 the ground, from which the crowns originate, the annual 
 feeder-roots forming a distinct system. On the other hand, 
 with Winter Rhubarb the fleshy substance of the central 
 root extends gradually into the main feeders, giving a long; 
 tapering habit to the permanent root. This is evidently th^ 
 basis of its most important and valuable characteristic, that 
 of perpetual growth. Whereas in other varieties the life 
 of the entire plant retreats in the fall to the fleshy lump of 
 root, which then becomes dormant for the winter, in Winter 
 Rhubarb there is no actual dormant period. 
 
 In addition to these differences, Winter Rhubarb is far 
 superior in quality to other sorts. Its stems have not the 
 woodiness and stringiness so familiar in summer rhubarb^ 
 especially as the season advances. Its skin is so thin and 
 tender that it is never peeled for cooking. Furthermore, 
 its flavor is more aromatic and less astringent and the acid 
 content is more fruit-like. This may be due to its carrying 
 a greater proportion of malic (apple) acid and less of oxalic 
 and tannic acids. This makes it a perfect substitute for 
 acid f ruit& at all times of the ye^r. When rightly prepared 
 
it is never cloying, a factor which undoubtedly has much to"^ 
 do with its ever increasing popularity. 
 
 Owing to its habit of perpetual growth it produces 
 abundantly at all times of the year wherever conditions are 
 favorable. Even where checked by severe frosts its re- 
 covery is immediate, as soon as the weather moderates. It 
 can nearly always be picked before any summer rhubarb is 
 ready and in the spring will recover from picking and pro- 
 duce another full stand in from six to eight weeks. It bears 
 a heavier tonnage per acre to a picking than summer rhu- 
 barb and besides has the market to itself before its rival 
 appears. 
 
 The leaves are produced from clumps or crowns at, or 
 very near, the ground level. A single root will carry a num- 
 ber of crowns, ranging from one to as many as twenty or 
 more. It is usually undesirable to carry more than six or 
 eight crowns at most, as with a larger number the stems 
 are apt to be small and weak. 
 
 Each successive leaf is at first covered by the stipule, 
 a membrane-like extension from the axil of the leaf next 
 preceeding. Aided by the growth of the older stem, the 
 new leaf breaks through the enclosing capsule, emerging in 
 quite an advanced stage of development. Packed in a thou- 
 sand tiny folds, once it is free of the capsule it starts to 
 unfold, often in good growing weather attaining a height 
 of three or more inches in a single day. 
 
 In favorable weather and under good conditions each 
 leaf attains maturity in about two weeks. Under such con- 
 ditions a new one will come out every week. About four 
 weeks after maturity each in turn becomes old, fades and 
 finally withers. Thus after a full stand has been made, 
 each crown will normally have a new-forming leaf, one 
 half grown, three to five mature and one or more old ones. 
 This stand will then remain nearly constant, each old stem 
 being replaced by the production of a new one. 
 
 After a series of these leaves, usually ranging from 20 
 to 50 or more, comes the concluding effort of this particular 
 
10 ^ 
 
 crown, which is the hollow seed stalk surmounted by its 
 cauliflower-like bud cluster. The stalk shoots up rapidly 
 and is soon decorated with a great festoon of tiny non- 
 petaled flowers. It grows to a height of 5 to 8 feet by the 
 time the seeds ripen. 
 
 The plant is renewed by the formation of new crowns. 
 In the axil of each leaf stalk there is developed a small bud 
 or eye. Normally these remain dormant and eventually 
 shrivel and disappear from the naked eye, but when the 
 natural course of development of the new leaves is inter- 
 fered with by some injury to the tender heart of the crown 
 or terminated by the production of the eventual seed stalk, 
 one or more of these buds sets in to grow and becomes a new 
 crown. These grow through the same cycle as the parent 
 crown and faithfully duplicate the characteristics of the 
 original in every particular. 
 
 One feature common to all varieties of rhubarb is vari- 
 ability when grown from seed. Winter Rhubarb seedlings 
 seem to run much truer to type than summer sorts, but the 
 tendency to variation still persists. From these natural 
 variations all new kinds have been originated, as among 
 the mixed offspring of any one plant there are nearly cer- 
 tain to be a few plants which are superior in one or more 
 points to their parent. Some plant dealers claim to have 
 produced new varieties by hybridizing but it is very doubt- 
 ful if such hybridisation has ever taken place, either by ac- 
 cident or design. This doubt will be shared by anyone who 
 will examine the flower. Self fertilization appears to be 
 the rule and I believe the chances to be almost infinite 
 against an accidental hybrid. Manipulation of the tiny 
 bloom is all but impossible and we have further evidence 
 that out of several hundred thousand seedlings of the first 
 generation from the supposed hybrids, there is not one re- 
 version. Furthermore, there is no variety of rhubarb ex- 
 tant which cannot be more than accounted for in the writ- 
 er's own experience of simple seed selection. 
 
 All plants produced by subdivisions of roots and crowns 
 
11 
 
 are very nearly true to type in every respect, possessing 
 both the virtues and the limitations of their parent. For 
 this reason all attempts to establish a fixed type by de- 
 veloping some one superior plant are in a measure self- 
 destructive. This subject will be discussed more thor- 
 oughly in the chapter on propogation and development. For 
 the present it may be briefly stated that the best system of 
 development appears to be a combination of seedling selec- 
 tion and subdivision, working towards a general type of 
 the best average standard. This is especially true as re- 
 gards commercial plantings, where the one all-important 
 criterion is the net profit on the investment. 
 
12 
 
 Chapter II. 
 SELECTION OF THE LOCATION. 
 
 Broadly speaking, Winter Rhubarb can be successfully 
 grown in the kitchen garden, for home or neighborhood sup- 
 ply, in nearly any location in California. The only limita- 
 tion is the extreme cold of our higher altitudes. Unless 
 specially protected it is liable to be killed by long contin- 
 ued freezing, though it will survive a sharp freeze of as low 
 as 10 degrees if not of too long duration. 
 
 On a small scale, even the most refractory soils can 
 be so managed as to produce good rhubarb. Having the 
 crop laid low by an occasional freeze or even losing a few 
 months benefit from it in the dead of winter is a compara- 
 tively small matter against its value in the home garden, 
 against summer rhubarb. 
 
 However, all who would make a success of the com- 
 mercial production of Winter Rhubarb should first make 
 themselves familiar with its natural limitations as viewed 
 from the commercial standpoint. 
 
 The first and most important consideration is the ex- 
 treme range of heat and cold. Almost as important is the 
 factor of mean temperatures. Other essentials are soil 
 adaptation, water supply and drainage. 
 
 Clearly, there can be no hard and fast lines laid down 
 between various combinations of these different factors. 
 Still, the ideal conditions for perfect success can be de- 
 scribed and the dangers absolutely to be avoided can be in- 
 dicated. The reader should then apply his own judgment 
 as to the safety zone between the two extremes wherein 
 Winter Rhubarb can be grown with the assurance of profit. 
 
 It must be considered, for a proper commercial ap- 
 praisal, strictly from the standpoint of a single crop or 
 picking. This statement will be objected to by those en- 
 thusiasts who prefer to view the subject in the light of its 
 rosy possibilities. It is a very pleasing indoor sport, if you 
 have the time to indulge in it, to take pencil and paper and 
 
13 
 
 figure out the possible (to the enthusiast, probable) profits 
 on an acre of rhubarb. What can be simpler? Given an 
 acre with 5,808 plants averaging 5 pounds to the picking, 
 you have 29,040 pounds at one time. Allowing three pick- 
 ings to the winter season you have 87,120 pounds. Then be 
 generous and require only a profit of one cent a pound on 
 your undertaking and you are charmed to find that you 
 have cleared the sum of $871.20 from a trifling piece of 
 ground some 209 feet square. Possibly you are of a grasp- 
 ing disposition and decline to be contented with less than 
 three cents a pound profit. A stroke of the trusty pencil 
 and behold, you have $2,613.60. If still unsatisfied just 
 intensify your culture and force your patient plants to 
 double their output and presto, — you have produced $5,227.- 
 20. You think you might do fairly well with 100 acres or 
 so of that sort of pasture. 
 
 Leaving such aureate visionings for the glittering pros- 
 pectuses of those who have stock to sell to "back-to-the- 
 landers," it is better to stick to hard facts, which, while less 
 alluring, will pay more dividends. 
 
 These fabulous returns may not be impossible. They 
 are merely, according to our present information, highly 
 improbable. The commonest error comes in applying the 
 results of garden conditions to an estimate of field produc- 
 tion. With rhubarb, as with anything else, a greater pro- 
 duction per plant can be made on a small scale than on a 
 larger one. 
 
 It will be well first to define a standard by which 
 to measure a commercial valuation. A fair basis for 
 this is to be found in the California Agricultural Experi- 
 ment Station Bulletin No. 121, entitled, "Some Things the 
 Prospective Settler Should Know." The average gross 
 income from the chief farm crops in the United States is 
 income from the chief farm crops in the United States is 
 given as 16 per cent of the capital invested. It is assumed 
 that a competent farmer is entitled to expect a g^oss in- 
 
14 
 
 come of 25 per cent on his total investment. The following 
 tables will shew the application of this principle. 
 
 Table 1. 
 
 Land and appurtenances, water etc $200.00 per acre 
 
 5,800 rhubarb plants @ $40.00 per M 232.00 per acre 
 
 Planting and caring for same 1 yr 28.00 per acre 
 
 $460.00 
 
 25 per cent 
 
 Gross yield required to justify inv $115.00 
 
 Table 2. 
 
 Land, etc $500.00 
 
 5,800 plants @ $80.00 ^ 464.00 
 
 Planting, etc 46.00 
 
 $1000.00 
 
 25 per cent 
 
 Gross yield required , $250.00 
 
 It will be seen that Table 1 figures land as cheap as it 
 is likely to be found suitable for our purpose. Table 2 
 places land as high as necessary to compare with the most 
 profitable field crops, being the value of the most productive 
 lima bean land on the southern coast. * $115.00 to $250.00 
 per acre, gross, varying according to the relative capital 
 m vested, but m no case to be less than 25 per cent of the 
 total investment, should therefore be taken as the absolute 
 minimum to safely justify the undertaking from a strictly 
 business standpoint. It should be assumed that this min- 
 imum return is to be made on one single picking per year. 
 Then such soils and situations should be avoided as will not 
 assure this return, year in and year out. All that is made 
 above these figures is pure "velvet," looked at commercially, 
 and (like chickens) velvet should be counted after the sea- 
 son is over, not betore it begins. 
 
15 
 
 A selling price of 3c per pound at the farm may be 
 counted on in the proper season. 25 per cent to 65 per cent 
 more can often be realized but 3c is a safe basis for an esti- 
 mate. To make $250.00 gross per acre will require 8,333 
 pounds @ 3c, or an average of less than 11/2 pounds per 
 plant. This should be the least yield to justify growing 
 Winter Rhubarb on an investment of $1,000.00 per acre. A 
 greater or less capitalization will demand a proportionally 
 larger or smaller return. 
 
 In the late spring and through the summer, rhubarb is 
 very plentiful, as are all kinds of fruits and vegetables. 
 Consequently during that time very little rhubarb can be 
 sold except by those who are close to large markets and can 
 so afford to sell very cheap. 
 
 The first limitation, then, is determined by the time of 
 year at which the necessary production can be commanded. 
 To be absolutely safe in finding a ready market at a good 
 price, the main picking should be finished by the end of 
 March. Rhubarb is sold after that date — often a great deal 
 and often at good prices — but the value of rhubarb market- 
 ed in the early spring, prior to April, can be relied on. After 
 that time returns become more speculative. 
 
 To be able to finish picking by April 1st, requires at 
 least six weeks of growing weather previous to that date; 
 that is, for the production of a full stand. A frost of 26 de- 
 grees is as low as the stems will endure without injury and 
 once stems are spoiled it takes time to grow new ones, so 
 the first point in the ideal location is freedom from freezing 
 temperatures after February 15th. Winter Rhubarb should 
 not be planted in a location liable to frost below 26 degrees 
 after February 15th. King, in "The Soil,'' states that the 
 germs of the nitric ferment do not develop nitric acid from 
 humus when the soil temperature falls below 41 degrees and 
 cannot work to much effect until the temperature reaches 
 54 degrees. Therefore a prevailing soil temperature above 
 54 degrees after February 15th, may be taken as the second 
 important factor in the ideal location. 
 
16 
 
 The ideal soil for Winter Rhubarb is a deep, rich, well- 
 drained sandy loam. Such soil will naturally be from 5 de- 
 grees to 10 degrees warmer than a heavy undrained soil 
 with the same location and exposure. Winter Rhubarb 
 should not be planted where there is hardpan closer than 
 three feet from the surface, on account of its deep rooting 
 habit. It is better to avoid even deeper hardpan unless the 
 soil is positively known to be well drained, as on the slope 
 of a hill, or when drained artificially as with tile. It must 
 not be planted on sour land. If drainage is good but the 
 land still slightly acid a liberal application of lime should 
 be given before planting. Rhubarb should not be planted 
 in adobe or heavy clays which crack open when drying. 
 
 In a region of scanty rainfall, such as Southern Cali- 
 fornia, provision must be made for irrigation. Winter and 
 early spring picking v/ill seldom need irrigation except in 
 years of actual drought, but in a semi-arid climate one or 
 two summer irrigations will be necessary to prevent serious 
 set-backs, if not even loss of plants. 
 
 Winter Rhubarb should not be planted where summer 
 temperatures run above 120 degrees because from that de- 
 gree of heat upwards there is increasing risk of losing 
 plants by cooking in the sun. 
 
 To recapitulate ; the ideal soil and situation for Winter 
 Rhubarb is a deep, rich, well-drained, sandy loam soil, lo- 
 cated where the temperature does not rise above 120 degrees 
 in the summer nor lall below 15 degrees in the winter and 
 where after February 15th there is freedom from sharp 
 frosts and a prevailing soil temperature above 54 degrees. 
 This last condition can often be attained by planting on a 
 slight southern slope, provided the soil is sufficiently free 
 and deep. Irrigation must be looked out for where rain- 
 fall is scanty. 
 
 Under these ideal conditions, with good plants and cor- 
 rect culture, the spring picking should make double or treble 
 the production necessary to justify an investment of $1,000 
 per acre, or from $500.00 to $750.00 gross. The better the 
 
17 
 
 conditions, especially as regards mild winters, the more will 
 be made in actual winter pickings and some can always be 
 sold — sometimes a great deal — after March. Such addi- 
 tional returns constitute the "velvet" which lends a pecul- 
 iar fascination to the rhubarb business. 
 
 As previously stated, there can be no hard and fast 
 lines drawn in working out suitable combinations. An un- 
 favorable location may be largely offset by especially good 
 soil conditions and vice versa. If in doubt, it is best to 
 experiment, planting, say a quarter of an acre, taking the 
 result as a guide for subsequent operations. 
 
 It is probable that the practical range of Winter Rhu- 
 barb may be vastly increased by the use of open mesh shade 
 tents such as are used in culture of Shade Tobacco. Ex- 
 tremes of heat and cold can be greatly modified and consid- 
 erable relative humidity maintained by this means. It is a 
 little early to positively recommend this but some very en- 
 couraging experiments are under way. The main question 
 is the justification of the increased investment. The cost 
 of tentmg is about $200.00 per acre and the liie of the tent 
 is about two years, making the per acre expense $100.00 
 per year. 
 
 Some locations are especially favorable for winter crop- 
 ping, notably those on or very near the coast. In addition 
 to the mildness of the winters, the fogs are a great stimulant 
 to rhubarb. 
 
 I should mention in passing that in the freak freeze of 
 Jan. 6th and 7th, 1913, our temperature here in the San 
 Luis Rey Valley went down below 10 degrees. I began ship- 
 ping again Feb. 12th, just five weeks after my fields had 
 iaeen laid flat by the freeze, and was unable to find any plants 
 killed by their severe experience. This seems a very fair 
 test of their endurance of cold, as well as of their quick re- 
 covery afterwards. 
 
18 
 
 Chapter III. 
 PREPARING THE FIELD. 
 
 Take a rhubarb plant, either fresh from the ground or 
 from three to six weeks later. Put it out in the field — any- 
 where. Plant it in any way except upside down. If there 
 is moisture in the ground the plant will grow. 
 
 It seems almost enough to say that any sort of prepar- 
 ation suitable for any crop will do for rhubarb. Certainly 
 the better the field is fitted and prepared for any crop, the 
 better it will be for rhubarb. As a study of standard meth- 
 ods of garden and field preparation, Prof. Wickson's "Cali- 
 fornia Vegetables" is invaluable. It is, or should be, at the 
 right hand of every up-to-date gardener. The chapters on 
 climate, soils, irrigation, drainage, cultivation and fertiliza- 
 tion will give reliable guidance for general gardening prac- 
 tice in California. 
 
 At the same time it is proper to accentuate certain spe- 
 cial practices which, applied to preparation for rhubarb, 
 are certain to pay a good profit on such increased expense 
 as they may entail. Most important of these is deep plow- 
 ing. It is of great advantage to the plants if they can root 
 freely straight downward from the start. 
 
 Where irrigation must be practiced it is of great im- 
 portance to prepare thoroughly for the easy and effective 
 application of the water. Even with a running start, water 
 will not flow readily up-hill in this climate and any man 
 who has done much fighting water over humps and hollows 
 does not need to be told that it saves money to have the land 
 properly laid out before planting. 
 
 The best paying factor in preparing for rhubarb is to 
 fertilize liberally with manure before plowing. This is not 
 essential, especially if the soil is very rich in the beginning, 
 as the necessary fertilizer can be applied subsequently if 
 inconvenient to do so before plowing, but even with the 
 richest soil it will be found a distinct advantage if it can be 
 done. A heavy application of manure, well worked in be- 
 
19 
 
 fore planting, will probably be all the fertilizer needed for 
 two full years, — undoubtedly will be if a leguminous crop 
 be grown between the rows in the summer. 
 
 The best method, in the writer's opinion, is to apply 
 the manure evenly with a manure spreader, then to work it 
 into the top soil thoroughly with a disk or cut-away. Next, 
 plow shallow and leave the field rough to the weather until 
 shortly before planting, at which time the deep plowing 
 should be given and the surface quickly fitted as if for a 
 seed bed. 
 
 It has been common practice with summer rhubarb to 
 plow ditches, filling them with manure, plowing the dirt 
 back on top of the manure and then plar>tincr either above or 
 alongside of this buried dungheap. Rhubarb is a gross 
 feeder and needs a large amount of nitrogen. It is also very 
 sturdy and can probably endure closer neoximitv to large 
 masses of manure than any other vegetable. Still it is sure- 
 ly sounder agriculture to incorporate the fertilizer thor- 
 oughly through the soil in as fine a state of division as prac- 
 tical. I find that with thorough mixture of manure and 
 soil the plants do better from the start and besides form 
 stronger and more symmetrical roots than where manure 
 is applied clear without mixing. 
 
 Where this method is used it is best to use fresh ma- 
 nure. If it is applied roughly and plowed in raw it is de- 
 cidedly safer to use manure which has been composted or 
 which has at least gone through its first fermentation. 
 This precaution should also be taken when the manure is 
 applied after the plants are growing. 
 
 When well worked into the soil, liberal application is 
 of much greater importance than the actual intrinsic qual- 
 ity of the manure. Its main value lies in the store of humus 
 it will furnish, which on fermenting in the soil forms humic 
 acid which in its turn makes the essential plant food already 
 in the soil in the highest degree available. In addition to 
 this, humus acts as a reservoir both of water and of unused 
 plant food and its mechanical effect is always beneficial, 
 
20 
 
 making lighter soils more retentive and heavier soils more 
 open and free and better aerated. For these reasons where 
 manure is not available, straw, leaves, brush, grape pomace, 
 refuse from fruit and vegetable canneries, etc. may be used 
 to very good advantage. 
 
 Neither manure nor any of these substitutes should be 
 applied without available irrigation except at such time of 
 the year as sufficient moisture is certain. Without moisture 
 the proper fermentation will not take place. 
 
 One ton of manure to the acre is better than none. Ten 
 to fifteen is usually applied and gives excellent results. 
 These results gain proportionately with increasing quantity 
 of manure up to at least 40 or 50 tons per acre. Besides 
 making the requisite proportional gain in tonnage, the grade 
 and quality are so greatly improved as to command a bet- 
 ter price generally on the market. 
 
 In preparing for rhubarb there are sometimes things 
 which may be done to transform an otherwise unsuitable 
 location into a good one. For example, where tile drainage 
 is practical an otherwise impossible location can often be 
 made especially valuable for rhubarb. In such a case the 
 time to install the drainage system is before planting the 
 rhubarb — not after. The same observation applies to such 
 grading as may be done to fit a field for necessary irrigation. 
 
 On the other hand, if the selected situation is in itself 
 satisfactory, there are occasions where the simplest sort of 
 preparation would be better, for instance, in order to take 
 advantage of a favorable season. Also, a prospective plant- 
 er may be confronted with the alternatives of planting 
 quickly so as to get a long growing season to establish his 
 plants before winter or postponing the planting for an- 
 other year to allow for preparation. If his situation is 
 such that extensive works such as draining, levelling, etc., 
 are unnecessary he would be financially ahead to go forward 
 with his planting as early as possible, with no further prep- 
 aration than a good deep plowing and working down the 
 
21 
 
 surface, leaving the application of manure until later. 
 Under this system it is better to apply no manure until the 
 plants have been established for about three or four months, 
 after which the manure spreader can be driven astride the 
 rows and the fertilizer well cultivated in. 
 
22 
 
 Chapter VI. 
 PLANTING. 
 
 Planting- can be done at any time of the year in favor- 
 able situations where the winters are mild and the summer 
 heat is not excessive. The best planting time is from Feb- 
 ruary to Jure, the best time of all being about April 1st. In 
 districts of highest summer temperatures earlier planting 
 is better, as the plants will then have time to become firm- 
 ly established before they are called upon to endure tho 
 heat. It is not advisable to plant before February except 
 in an especially mild and open season or in a locality where 
 very favorable winter conditions prevail. On the other 
 hand, wherever the summer heat is not too intense, as for 
 example, near the coast, June and July are excellent months 
 for planting. It may be taken as a general principle that 
 the quicker a plant can establish itself after transplanting, 
 the better root system it will develop and the more thrifty 
 it will be when picking time comes. For this reason plant- 
 ing in times of natural "growing weather" is always best. 
 
 Mark out the rows five feet apart. If narrower than 
 this it will be necessary to cease cultivation too soon. It is 
 unlikely that any gain will be made with wider space to off- 
 set the loss in number of plants to the acre. 
 
 If the ground is not sufficiently moist, furrow out and 
 irrigate down the rows, harrow, smooth, and mark again 
 lightly for planting. 
 
 There is only one important point, peculiar to 
 Winter Rhubarb, to be strictly observed in planting. 
 The plants should be set at such depth that the junc- 
 tion of root and crown stands as nearly as possible at the 
 level at which the ground will stand after the plants have 
 become established. It is well to plant about a half inch 
 higher out of the ground than the apparent level of the 
 ground when planting, as subsequent cultivation will tend 
 to build up the ground a trifle higher on the rows. Accord- 
 
23 
 
 ing as the crowns are buried or the roots exposed, the plants 
 become less efficient. Deep burying is apt to induce a ten- 
 dency to mildew and moldy stalks. Exposed roots are prac- 
 tically certain to produce dry or woody stalks and a gener- 
 ally feeble growth. 
 
 A good method of planting, probably as efficient and 
 economical as any, uses two men, one to make the holes and 
 the other to set the plants. Use a long-handled, narrow 
 spade, thrusting it vertically into the ground on the mark 
 and moving the handle back and forth enough to accommo- 
 date the plant, then setting it in the ground about three 
 inches away from the first hole and pressing the earth to- 
 ward the plant. The man who sets the plants in place as- 
 sists in firming the soil about them with his hands, being 
 watchful of the proper planting depth. Two active men can 
 easily plant 600 plants an hour by this method. 
 
 Some recommend wet planting, using water to settle 
 the soil about the plants, but I have found it much better to 
 depend upon soil water (capillary moisture) wherever prac- 
 tical, rather than to actually wet the plants. Of course 
 ample moisture is essential and, until thoroughly established 
 with new permanent root systems, the plants must not be 
 allowed to suffer for lack of moisture, so if planting has 
 been deferred too long, irrigation must be given, both im- 
 mediately before planting and as soon thereafter as may be 
 necessary to keep the soil moist — not ivet. 
 
 It is a good plan, when atmospheric conditions tend to 
 dry the crowns, to throw a light mulch of loose soil over 
 them after planting. This can be done handily by cultivat- 
 ing, using a pair of horse-hoes to throw up a ridge, just 
 high enough to barely cover the exposed crowns. If heat is 
 intense a straw mulch is better than the earth mulch. 
 
 The root carries a considerable store of material for 
 the manufacture of new leaves and will go on sprouting 
 even if left lying in the open air. This peculiarity some- 
 times deceives a beginner into thinking that his plants are 
 **taking hold." But it is below ground that the real work 
 
24 
 
 takes place. Almost immediately after planting, if condi- 
 tions are right, the root begins to send out tiny feeders. 
 I have noted this, exceptionally, within 24 hours from plant- 
 ing. More usually they first become apparent about the 
 third or fourth day. These first feeders are very delicate 
 in structure, silvery white and nearly transparent. They 
 are nearly all water, with an infinitessimal proportion of 
 solid substance. When rubbed between the • fingers they 
 practically vanish. When in this condition, if the soil be- 
 comes dry for even a very short time, all those little feeders 
 will disappear and new ones will have to be made. After a 
 time, varying from two weeks to two months according to 
 conditions, a few of these begin to thicken where they 
 emerge from the old root and the characteristic root sub- 
 stance begins to grow out along the tiny thread. From this 
 point on, development is very rapid and in a very short time 
 thereafter the plant may be said to be established and be- 
 comes very hardy and able to endure an extraordinary 
 amount of abuse. 
 
 From the foregoing it will be seen that proper moisture 
 and temperature conditions for the first few weeks after 
 planting will have a great bearing on the rapidity with which 
 plants will establish themselves and consequently on their 
 natural thrift. 
 
 Whether seedling roots or root subdivisions are used, 
 in either case the process is the same and care should be 
 taken that the plants are not subjected to any false starts. 
 They will recover from even a number of false starts but 
 each successive effort will be weaker and therefore no inter- 
 ruption of growth should be permitted. 
 
 These suggestions for preparation and planting are 
 given for field conditions. For garden planting, where no 
 more than a few dozen plants are wanted, a more intensive 
 plan should be followed. A trench should be dug, IV2 f^^t 
 by 2 feet wide. This should be half filled with a mixture of 
 Iresh manure and soil, tramped down hard, then filled up 
 with clear soil and settled with water. No other fertilizer 
 
25 
 
 should be applied for three or four months after planting. 
 The best spacing in the row seems to be about eighteen 
 inches for field planting. In a garden bed, such as just de- 
 scribed, a space of two feet between plants will be better. 
 
26 
 Chapter Y. 
 CULTURE. 
 
 The first culture of Winter Rhubarb is not essentially 
 different from that of any other field or garden crop. Thor- 
 ough but shallow cultivation, elimination of weeds and pre- 
 servation of adequate soil moisture are principles which ap- 
 ply here as elsewhere. Such care should properly begin ao 
 soon as planting is finished and continue until within three 
 to six weeks of the main picking. It is generally inadvis-* 
 able to enter the field with a cultivator or to disturb it in 
 any way for at least three weeks before such main picking. 
 Even if rains come or irrigation is necessary during this 
 period of laying the crop over, it will not be necessary to 
 cultivate because the leaves will shade the ground sufficiently 
 to prevent much evaporation of moisture and baking of the 
 soil. Frequent cultivations, two and a half to three inches 
 deep, will prevent the development of any considerable root 
 work within that depth. This will also provide aeration 
 and facilitate nitrification at the same time as conserving- 
 moisture. As picking time approaches, cultivation is dis- 
 continued in order to allow the feeders to develop in every 
 available particle of the surface soil. This is also done with 
 a view to avoiding injury to the perfecting stand of stems. 
 
 The function of every rhubarb crown is at last to pro- 
 duce a seed stalk. This function runs counter to our design, 
 for we are concerned only with the stems of the leaves — 
 which are merely incidental to the main purpose of the 
 plant. If the plant is allowed to mature its seed vStalks 
 without check it rapidly deteriorates. The production of 
 the enormous seed stalk is a great drain on the vital re- 
 sources of the plant, going so far as noticeably to cause the 
 root to shrink. Besides this, new crowns are then usually 
 developed, often in greater number than the weakened plant 
 can effectively support. 
 
27 
 
 For this reason the seed stalks are removed when from 
 one to two feet in height, continuously during the entire 
 period, beginning after the plants are established, three or 
 four months from planting, and up to the time when the 
 field is finally laid over. A sharp knife should be used, cut- 
 ting off the entire crown which has seeded, below its low- 
 est leaves, unless it is desirable to produce a few more 
 crowns, in which case the stalk alone should be cut, close to 
 the leaves. The latter method should always be used in 
 case the plant has only a single crown, which has gone to 
 seed. If the entire crown is removed from such a plant it 
 may not survive the shock and, if it does, it is likely to pro- 
 duce its new crov/ns from dormant eyes quite a ways down 
 the root, thus making a buried crown. 
 
 Seed stalks should never be cut or interfered with until 
 after the plants have been in the field three to four months 
 and are thoroughly established. There is no way of knowing 
 just how near a given crown may be to seeding so when any 
 considerable planting is made there is certain to be a pro- 
 portion of the plants which were nearly at the point of seed- 
 ing before they were taken up or subdivided for transplant- 
 ing. Bear in mind the classical injunction given little Bo- 
 peep when her sheep were late to supper, ''leave them alone," 
 and they will probably come through alright. The new 
 crowns they form will naturally be slower reaching a usable 
 size than their mature neighbors but they will be ready in 
 time, possibly just about the time that some of the others 
 have w^earied of single blessedness and undertaken to raise 
 a family. 
 
 This whole seed stem question can best be learned by 
 practical experience. Seeding being inevitable, as it is, the 
 problem consists in turning that habit to our best advantage. 
 Generally speaking, there is considerable advantage in the 
 variations in tim.e of seeding among the plants in a field, as 
 thereby the danger is avoided of having all the plants seed- 
 ing just at the time it is most desirable to sell rhubarb. 
 
 As only large, quick-growing leaf stems (the incidental 
 
28 
 
 by-product of the plant) are wanted, plenty of nitrogen 
 must be supplied except to the richest of soil. Rhubarb is 
 the grossest of gross feeders, hence it is almost impossible 
 to supply too much available nitrogen except from the stand- 
 point of commercial economy. Of course the other elements, 
 potash, phosphorus, lime, etc., must be present in adequate 
 measure in order to enable the plant to assimilate great, 
 quantities of nitrogen. However, its requirements of these 
 elements are not heavy and it is probable that any fairly 
 rich soil contains enough in itself for many years of rhu- 
 barb. Where manure is used freely as the main source of 
 nitrogen there is always a surplus of the other necessary 
 elements. 
 
 The main reason for recommending manure for the 
 nitrogen supply is that the humus thereby added to the soil 
 becomes a reservoir for the retention of that elusive element. 
 The important part played by humic acid in making all the 
 elements available must not be forgotten, nor the improve- 
 ment in texture of soil which follows the proper application 
 of manure. In addition to thorough admixture with the 
 soil, the only caution to be observed in heavy manuring is 
 to make sure that there is good drainage so that the land 
 will not be soured. However, it is assumed that drainage 
 has been considered as a pre-requisite of rhubarb planting. 
 
 In the absence of available manure, any organic waste 
 substances which will produce humus can be used with good 
 effect, the preference being always for such as carry the 
 highest percentage of nitrogen. Where such materials are 
 used it will of course be necessary to devise methods of ap- 
 plication to suit their differing structure. 
 
 It will often be found advantageous to use nitrates to 
 finish off a crop, especially if the supply of nitrogen has be- 
 come depleted. The deficiency of nitrogen shows quickly 
 in stunted growth and a yellowish cast to the foliage. Ap- 
 plication of nitrate is very satisfactory even when plants 
 are in rich ground and appear to be doing very well, always 
 stimulating them to heavier growth and finer texture. I 
 
29 
 
 have found Nitrate of Lime best for this kind of forcing. 
 It has all the good qualities of Nitrate of Soda and is safer 
 for the plants. Unless considerable care is taken in using 
 Nitrate of Soda, the plants may receive a set-back which 
 may more than offset the stimulation. There is no such 
 danger with Nitrate of Lime, which has the additional vir- 
 tue that a certain amount of its lime content is in a form 
 immediately available as plant nutriment. The remainder 
 of the lime is a valuable soil amendment and aids nitrifica- 
 tion. Apply at the rate of 200 to 250 pounds to the acre, 
 sprmklmg near the plants and cultivating immediately. 
 I'he most effective results seem to come when applied about 
 four to five weeks before picking. 
 
 Where irrigation is necessary, whatever is good local 
 practice for vegetable crops is equally correct for rhubarb. 
 During the period that young plants are establishing them- 
 selves, three to four months after planting, and through the 
 time of maturing a crop, six to eight weeks before picking, 
 ample moisture must be maintained continuously to get best 
 results. In irrigating it should be remembered that the 
 water that runs off the land does harm, not good. Every 
 soil has its own limit of capacity to hold capillary, or soil, 
 moisture which a careful irrigator will learn by experi- 
 ment. Saturation beyond this point can bring no good re- 
 sult and often in close, heavy soils, or if too long continued 
 in any soil, will cause actual damage from smothering by 
 the free water shutting off the air supply of the roots. 
 
 Irrigation should, of course, always be followed by culti- 
 vation as soon as the ground can be properly worked. Never 
 cultivate mud. 
 
 If necessary to irrigate within the last three weeks be- 
 fore picking, do not cultivate, even if the water has to be 
 run over again to save the ground from baking. It is most 
 unlikely to bake, owing to the dense shade of the spreading 
 foliage, and it is best to leave the ground undisturbed for 
 that time. 
 
 Clean cultivation is best for the first summer after the 
 
30 
 
 plants are set out. Beginning the second summer, cultiva- 
 tion may be very well dispensed with, especially where the 
 following described system of green manuring can be prac- 
 ticed. The plants should be encouraged to take a rest dur- 
 ing the summer. Where they can be mxade to do so they 
 will bear heavier and require less fertilizer the succeeding 
 winter and spring. 
 
 After the spring picking is off, in March or April, and 
 as the plants are entering upon their second summer in the 
 field, some legumifious cover crop may be sowed thickly in 
 the space between the rows. Vetches are probably the best 
 if they can be made to grow well at that time of the year. 
 Cowpeas, soy beans, or any other legume may be used. 
 When any of these are grown for the first time, be sure to 
 inoculate. Directions for inexpensive inoculation may be 
 found in California Agricultural Experiment Station Cir- 
 cular No. 87. 
 
 This sort of summer cover crop may appear at first 
 sight to be somewhat opposed to accepted practice, so it is 
 well to give a word of explanation. Resting the plants in the 
 summer is an important factor towards net profits — more 
 and better production at less expense. But where the field 
 is left without cultivation, weeds have full sway and enough 
 damage and extra work may ensue to offset the benefit of 
 leaving the field idle through the summer. On the other 
 hand, a good cover crop will keep down the weeds and in ad- 
 dition, if a legumie is used, will add nitrogen (our great es- 
 sential nutriment) to the soil instead of further depleting 
 the supply as the weeds will do. When finally put down and 
 worked into the ground, this crop will keep up the desired 
 humus — rounding out the argument in favor of this practice 
 for Winter Rhubarb. 
 
 Vv^hen the cover crop has reached the right stage for 
 green manuring, one to three weeks before blossoming, mow 
 down the entire mass, rhubarb and all. Cover this by plowing 
 six or eight inches deep on each side of the rows, within three 
 or four inches of the plants. Use a plow with a long mold- 
 
31 
 
 board so as to throw a good ridge between the rows, cov- 
 ering the green stuff as thoroughly as possible. A large, 
 sharp, rolling coulter will be necessary, both to slice the 
 cover for a clean furrow and, by having a large one and 
 setting it deep, to make the incidental root pruning as 
 smooth and clean as can be. 
 
 Where practical, an irrigation should be given just be- 
 fore this cutting down and plowing so as to hasten decompo- 
 sition. As soon as the right stage of decomposition has been 
 reached, cultivation should begin. Cultivate so as to work 
 the ridge down into the open furrows and leave the ground 
 level again. The first cultivations should be done with a 
 disc attachment. After the trash has been worked up 
 enough so that it will not drag and clog the cultivator teeth, 
 use chisel or narrow shovel attachments. Make the first 
 few cultivations as deep as possible. After thorough tillage, 
 reduce the depth of cultivation to 21/2 or 3 inches. 
 
 This plowing should be done in July or August; never 
 later than August, as some months must be allov/ed after 
 such severe root pruning for the development of the new 
 feeder system. 
 
 This will be found to be the cheapest way of buying 
 nitrogen and should be done wherever practical. 
 
 After three or four years in the field it is best to take 
 up the plants, subdivide and replant with single strong 
 crowns. This work should be done in the early spring, as 
 soon as possible after the last picking. Planting should be 
 done in a new piece of ground, well prepared in advance. 
 
 Rhubarb is practically free from pests and diseases. Its 
 rapid growth, vigor and large stalks and leaves render it 
 nearly safe from injurious attacks of insects and it seems 
 to have no natural enemies. In the eastern States, summer 
 growing varieties are sometimes troubled by the Rhubarb 
 Curculio or Snout Beetle and the Rhubarb Flea Beetle. On 
 the Pacific Coast no damage has yet been reported from 
 either of these insects. 
 
 The California Station reports on three insects said to 
 
32 
 
 include rhubarb in their dietary, the Apple Leaf Hopper, the 
 Western Army Worm and the Hop Flea Beetle. Outside of 
 this report I have not seen or heard of these insects attack- 
 ing rhubarb, though I have seen the leaves eaten by the 
 Twelve Spotted Cucumber Beetle {Diabrotica Soror) . 1 
 have never seen any particular damage done, as the leaf de- 
 velopment is so rapid that the plants run away from the 
 beetle. 
 
 One year I was visited in the fall by a black aphis. Have 
 never heard of this attacking rhubarb elsewhere except in 
 one instance. As soon as this appears, simply pick the atfect- 
 ed plants down, burning the leaves or dipping in a barrel of 
 poison solution. Then wet the plant with its remaining 
 sprouts thoroughly with the dip, or better, spray with strong 
 pressure. Use ''Black Leaf 40," a 40 per cent preparation 
 of Sulphate of Nicotine. A half pound can will make 50 gal- 
 lons of the proper solution. 
 
 It is a good rule if aphis appears anywhere to get rid 
 of it immediately without waiting to see what it will do, for 
 one thing is most certain, that it will multiply and replen- 
 ish the earth — with aphis — and inconceivably fast. Hap- 
 pily they are very easy to detect. When they start in on 
 a plant they stay on it until they simply crowd themselves 
 ott. Take the first few plants they attack and it is easy to 
 get rid of them. There seems no reason to believe them espe- 
 cially fond of rhubarb. It is likely that these attacks came 
 when their natural pasture was lacking. 
 
 In long continued warm, damp weather the stems may 
 be aftected by mildew, especially if planted a little too deep. 
 Sulphur is recommended for control. Use finely powdered 
 flowers of sulphur and apply thoroughly. 
 
33 
 
 Chapter VI. 
 PICKING AND PACKING. 
 
 Stems should not be picked until the plants have been 
 set out for at least four months. A good development of 
 foliage is essential to the formation of a sturdy root system 
 such as is needed for the heavy duty to be required of the 
 plant later on. 
 
 So far, the most valuable and dependable market has 
 been developed in the early spring, principally through the 
 months of February and March; therefore it is best to de- 
 sign all field operations so as to have the maximum stand 
 of rhubarb within that period. 
 
 After the plants have been over four months in the 
 field and until the time for laying the crop over for the main 
 picking, as described in the chapter on culture, a certain 
 amount of continuous picking is permissible and even de- 
 sirable. Such continuous picking must, however, be done 
 in accordance with the natural habit of growth of the plants 
 in order to carry them to a point of hignest efficiency at the 
 spring picking. 
 
 When seed-stemming is practiced as previously recom- 
 mended, removing crowns which have seeded when the 
 stalk is from one to two feet tall (except as noted in the case 
 of single-crowned plants), each such crown will frequently 
 yield trom two to four excellent stems. These are often 
 among the most vigorous stems in the field and seed-stem- 
 ming should provide a small supply of a very attractive pack, 
 which will usually find a profitable local market even when 
 other fruits and vegetables are plentiful. 
 
 As winter approaches the demand for rhubarb in- 
 creases and prices improve. This condition can be met by 
 picking the largest and best crowns, without disturbing the 
 smaller ones. All the crowns of a given plant are of diff'er- 
 ent ages, hence of different degrees of maturity and devel- 
 opment. When picking in this way do not pick down entire 
 plants. It will pay better to leave the smaller crowns, which 
 
will keep on growing if not disturbed and will conserve the 
 vitality of the plant better than if it is entirely defoliated. 
 However, all the old outer leaves should be removed from 
 the crowns which are picked as if they are left on they seem 
 to cause the plant to slacken in its growth. 
 
 When the main picking is ready and shipments have 
 been arranged for, take everything in sight. That is, take 
 all good rhubarb. Never let your heart grieve over leaving 
 old and faded stems in the field. Similar to a palm, a rhu- 
 barb plant will have many leaves which are past their prime 
 and are deteriorating. Ordinarily, after a proper period 
 of growing weather, good crowns should carry an average 
 of about four good stems apiece. For every new stem pro- 
 duced, the oldest of this preceeding series begins to fade, 
 thus keeping the number of vigorous stems practically con- 
 stant. Exceptionally a larger number of perfect stems 
 will be found on a crown, due to some obscure cause 
 favoring nutrition of that particular plant. Some times a 
 burst of fine ''growing weather" will increase the average 
 over the entire field. On the other hand, a long continued 
 cold spell will naturally retard the development of new 
 growth, while it does not seem to delay the aging of mature 
 stems, and will thereby reduce the plant average and the 
 total stand. This emphasizes the necessity of certain caution 
 in the selection of location, as earlier pointed out. 
 
 But, much or little as it may be, if you remember that 
 you have just as much rhubarb as you have good rhubarb 
 and do not attempt to pick more than this, you should never 
 have difficulty in marketing your production during the 
 proper season. 
 
 At this final picking there is no advantage in cleaning 
 the old leaves from the plants. Simply take every good stem 
 in sight and pass on. Some advise leaving immature stems, 
 as being more perishable. This is a mistake, as has been 
 proved by cold-storage tests on the keeping quality of rhu- 
 barb. When decay finally sets in, the oldest stems are the 
 first affected. The youngest stems endure the longest of 
 
35 
 
 all. The only ground for leaving small immature stems is 
 the mere matter of size. If not too very small, a certain 
 amount of lighter stock should go into the fanciest pack so 
 that the retailer can make weights. Where correct culture 
 and ample fertilizer have been given there is small danger 
 of there being too much of this light stock. 
 
 Care is necessary not to break the stems when picking. 
 There is just the least knack about this that is hard to prop- 
 erly describe but which anyone can catch in a few moments 
 trial. The stems should come away, quite cleanly as a rule, 
 from the thin, semi-circular edge where they join the crown. 
 Never pack broken stems. When an accident happens, just 
 throw the stem away — and be more careful next time. 
 
 Pile the picked leaves from tv/o rows in the space be- 
 tween, laying the piles crossways of the row and with the 
 leaves all pointing the same way. Do not make the piles too 
 large. These directions are given to facilitate topping. 
 
 Topping should be done immediately after picking, or 
 as soon as possible, as the leaves should not be allowed to 
 wilt on the stems. About an inch of the leaf should be left 
 on the stem in the form of a duck foot. Use a rather heavy, 
 large knife, keeping it very sharp. The acid dulls the blade 
 very rapidly, so a good whetstone carried in the pocket is 
 a time saver. 
 
 The topper goes down the rows, facing so that his knife 
 hand is on the same side as the leaf-ends are laid. Kneeling 
 or squatting to the pile, as he tops the stems he drops them 
 in a new pile between himself and the first pile. With a 
 little practice and simplifying the necessary motions, this 
 work can be done with great rapidity and neatness. Top- 
 pers should be instructed to make a practice of scattering 
 the piles of leaves as soon as each pile is topped. 
 
 Following the topping, the piles are again gone over 
 and the stipules removed from the bases of the stems. This 
 can be done when topping, but when heavy picking is done 
 and saving time is an important object it will be found more 
 efficient and cheaper to make a separate operation of it. The 
 
36 
 
 stipules should always be stripped off by the fingers, never 
 trimmed off with a knife. . 
 
 The piles are then gathered into large field boxes, con- 
 taining 60 pounds or more, laying the stems in the boxes 
 with the leaves all pointing the same way, and hauled to the 
 packing shed. Here they are washed and are then ready for 
 packing. 
 
 In these various operations it is important that the 
 stems be handled with reasonable care, especially avoiding 
 scraping or chafing them. The skin is so tender that rubbing 
 with sand or grit will cause tiny scars, making a dirty look- 
 ing pack. With the least care in handling, this damage can 
 be avoided. 
 
 Speed, hence cheapness, of picking and topping depends 
 more on size of stems than anything else. A grade that runs 
 4 stems to the pound will cost less than half as much to 
 handle than one that runs 8 to the pound. This is an addi- 
 tional argument in favor of generous fertilizing. Besides 
 the increased yield of superior quality, expenses are reduced, 
 to the great advantage of the net profits. 
 
 Packing arrangements will vary according as the pick- 
 ing is done on a large or a small scale. Up to about 2,000 
 pounds a day the simplest plant will suffice. A bench and 
 frame for making boxes, scales, a slatted or grated bench 
 for washing and packing, a hose, a bench for nailing up the 
 packed boxes and a place to pile them, will furnish com- 
 fortably for a packing plant of small capacity. Where it 
 is necessary to pack car lots from a single ranch and a ca- 
 pacity of 10,000 pounds a day is needed, a little thoughtful 
 planning of these essential arrangements can be made to 
 result in an appreciable saving in packing cost. 
 
 There are two styles of packing in use in California, lo- 
 cally and for shipment to eastern markets, the "solid-pack" 
 in apple box, with a standard weight of 40 pounds net and 
 the special rhubarb crate designed by the Southern Cali- 
 fornia Rhubarb Growers' Association, carrying 30 pounds 
 net. The Pioneer Fruit Company, who handle practically 
 
37 
 
 all the eastern car lot shipments from Northern California 
 and whose good work in this connection will receive atten- 
 tion in the chapter on marketing, insist on the solid pack. At 
 the same time there is much in favor of the Southern Cali- 
 fornia 30 pound crate, when properly handled, especially in 
 express shipments. This crate is made with sides of half- 
 i^rh lumber, 7%x24 inches and ends of quarter inch, 7% by 
 12 inches. Top and bottom each consist of four slats of 
 quarter inch, 2V2xl2 inches. These parts, known as "box 
 shook," are to be had from the box factory for $8.75 per 
 100, f. o. b. cars. Paper must be provided to line top and 
 bottom. This should be very heavy, tough and non-absorb- 
 ent and should be cut to size, 1114x24 inches. The paper 
 costs about 1 cent a box. 
 
 In the solid pack the box is made of a length to accom- 
 modate the average stem and all longer stems must be cut 
 off. Very few stems have to be cut for the 24 inch crate. 
 By distributing the stems well in packing the crate a very 
 nearly solid appearance can be preserved. 
 
 In packing Fancy Rhubarb for express trade I use a 15- 
 pound crate made just the same as the 30-pound, but half 
 as deep. The especial advantage of this in fancy trade is 
 that it insures the grocer a quick clean-up of fresh stock so 
 that he has no waste. 
 
 Boxes and crates should always be packed a little extra 
 weight, say one pound in a 30-lb. box. Care should be taken 
 to distribute the largest and most attractive stems through- 
 out the box so that when the rhubarb is finally on sale it will 
 look equally good until the last pound is sold. The rhubarb 
 should be clean and the entire package finished up neatly. 
 The shipper's name and address should always be neatly 
 stamped or stenciled on each box, as well as the name and 
 address of the consignee. 
 
 As illustrating a few of the essential details in prepar- 
 ing rhubarb for market I give the following letter recently 
 written to a gentleman who had purchased plants from me 
 last year to set out an acre. He found diflficulty in market- 
 
38 
 
 ing his rhubarb and wrote for advice. I asked for a sample 
 of his stock, which came in due time and, on opening, dis- 
 closed at first glance a condition which was in itself suffi- 
 cient to account for any selling difficulty. Printing this may 
 seem a bit superfluous, repeating, as it does, a good deal of 
 the preceding matter — but the fact that this letter was nec- 
 essary, under the circumstances, is evidence to me that these 
 things cannot be too strongly accentuated, even if neces- 
 sarily by repetition. 
 
 San Luis Key, Cal., Feb. 18, 1915. 
 
 Mr 
 
 Redlands, Cal. 
 
 My Dear Mr 
 
 I have just examined, with great interest, the rhubarb 
 samples you sent me. 
 
 It is evident that, under the conditions, your rhubarb 
 has done very well and, if you handle it rightly, should bring 
 you a very fair return. 
 
 At the same time it is forcibly brought to me that some 
 details of handling, which are so familiar to us as to seem 
 natural, will require fuller explanation than would have oc- 
 curred to me as necessary. 
 
 The main criticism of the samples is in regard to your 
 topping — or removing of the leaf. You have used a dull 
 knife and have cut with a slanting stroke, cutting through 
 a portion of the stem. This gives an appearance of being 
 roughly whittled to a point. The proper method — and the 
 one which preserves the stem best — is to use a very sharp 
 knife, cutting square across the base of the leaf about an 
 inch from where the veins diverge from the stem. This 
 leaves a sort of "duck-foot" effect. Topping should be done 
 within a few minutes after picking, before the leaves begin 
 to wilt, otherwise considerable of the moisture of the stem 
 
39 
 
 is transpired through the leaf, impairing the keeping qual- 
 ity of the rhubarb. When topping is done as prescribed, 
 leaving a small section of leaf, the cut portion dries and seals 
 over very quickly retaining the juice of the stem, besides 
 giving a uniformly neat finish. 
 
 You v^ill find that many of the leaves grow up very 
 crisply from the stalk, with the lower lobes small, crisp and 
 rather folded inwards. These will be topped with a single 
 swift stroke with your sharp knife, square across. Other 
 leaves grow with rather drooping lobes or with the outer 
 veins spreading at a wide angle with the stalk. Such will 
 require another stroke or two to trim them neatly. 
 
 Use a fairly heavy butcher knife. I use an eight-inch 
 blade by preference. Keep it at a razor-edge and carry a 
 good whetstone in your pocket. Touch it up on the stone 
 two or three times an hour when topping steadily. 
 
 The stipules adhering to the base of the stems should 
 be removed before the final washing. I don't know that this 
 makes any difference to the rhubarb, but it makes a great 
 improvement in the appearance of the package and appear- 
 ance is the first and most important factor in marketability. 
 
 Furthermore, of the 34 good stems in the sample, ten 
 had been broken off in picking. With reasonable care this 
 can be avoided. If you are watchful you will learn to be sus- 
 picious of a plant whose stems are liable to break and, giving 
 yourself the benefit of the doubt, grasp the stem well down 
 at the base and endeavor to detach where it springs from the 
 crown. You may be unable to escape an occasional accident 
 but with due caution these should not come to more than a 
 fraction of one per cent of your total picking and you should 
 make a rule not to allow a single broken stalk in your pack. 
 
 Nearly all the stems were badly chafed and scarred. 
 Their appearance was as if they had not been washed but 
 had been brushed off dry. Do not handle the stems more 
 than absolutely necessary, especially before washing. In 
 such handling as must be done, pick them up and lay them 
 
40 
 
 down without letting them slide through the hands as, when 
 there is dust, grit or sand adhering either to the stems or 
 your hands, rubbing is certain to chafe and mar the deli- 
 cate outer skin and makes your pack look old and dingy. 
 
 Always wash your rhubarb perfectly clean before pack- 
 ing and pack it wet. It will thus retain its freshness much 
 longer. 
 
 The quicker you can get your rhubarb into the box from 
 the growing plant and the sooner thereafter it can be opened 
 for sale at the grocer's, the better business you will do. 
 
 Further analyzing the sample marked "two stems each 
 from nine consecutive unfertilized plants," I find these 
 eighteen stems weigh 31^ pounds. Four of these stems only 
 averaged one ounce apiece. Taking these out left fourteen 
 stems weighing just 3 pounds, or a little heavier than 5 
 stems to the pound. My own experience teaches that an ex- 
 cellent and strictly fancy pack can be made with 5 stems to 
 the pound. Personally, I aim never to send out lighter than 
 an eight stem pack. Seven is fair and six is a good com- 
 mercial pack. Five stems to the pound is fancy and four 
 can be properly called extra fancy. 
 
 Those four stems which only weighed 14 pound alto- 
 gether should be omitted from your pack. They hardly con- 
 tribute enough weight to pay for the bother of picking, top- 
 ping, washing and packing them and certainly not enough 
 to offset the improved grade you would have by leaving 
 them out. Besides this, it is evident that those two plants 
 have had a hard time of it for some reason or other and will 
 probably do enough better for being left undisturbed to pay 
 lor such rhubarb as you might take from them now. This 
 will hold true even if they have to be left until next year to 
 realize from them. 
 
 The sample of sixteen stems from ''eight adjoining 
 plants fertilized with one light application of horse manure," 
 weighs 3 pounds 14 ounces — or very nearly a 4 stem pack, 
 
41 
 
 showing a gain of almost exactly 25 per cent in average 
 weight of stem in favor of the single light manuring. 
 
 This is a very clear cut example of the established fact 
 that fertilizing is a double-barreled proposition. It increases 
 the yield sufficiently to pay back the cost with big interest 
 and at the same time improves the grade, making this in- 
 creased production more saleable. 
 
 You are right in doubting the marketability of the old 
 and pithy stems. Of course it gives pain to a thrifty soul to 
 witness what seems to be waste. But as these old stems 
 are returned to the soil they do not represent so much waste 
 as might at first appear. Under proper growing conditions 
 the plant is being continually renewed from within, keeping 
 the supply of marketable stock fairly constant. 
 
 Must give you a word of caution in regard to seed- 
 stalks. Remember that the seed stalk is the final effort of 
 every individual crown, after which new crowns are devel- 
 oped from the buds in the axils of the leaves. Cut the seed- 
 stalks as you say you are doing (but better when about 3 
 feet high) if you want to develop more crowns, but when a 
 plant has as many crowns as you want, say 4 to 6, it is bet- 
 ter to remove the entire crown by cutting or breaking it off, 
 leaves and all. 
 
 I will ship you a packed box of rhubarb such as I am 
 now supplying to my trade. Examine this carefully, noting 
 the application of the principles I have pointed out. Then 
 pick and pack another sample and ship me. If any points 
 have been missed we can straighten them up in short order. 
 
 Yours very truly, 
 
 REGINALD BLAND. 
 
42 
 
 Chapter VII. 
 MARKETING. 
 
 The ancient recipe for rabbit pie begins, ''First catch 
 your hare." The first instruction for profitable marketing 
 of Winter Rhubarb is, "First, produce your rhubarb." 
 Proper culture means the production of fancy rhubarb 
 which, nicely handled and packed, is very easy to sell during 
 the rhubarb season. 
 
 It has not always been such a simple matter. The earl- 
 ier years of attempts to market Winter Rhubarb covered a 
 series of discouraging experiences and bitter disappoint- 
 ments. There never was a dream that bore fairer promise 
 more barren of fulfillment. The thing looked so good — so 
 reasonable! Small wonder that many, lured by such glit- 
 tering bait as $1,000.00 to $1,500.00 per acre profits the first 
 year after planting," hastened to invest their small savings 
 or even go into debt for these gold bearing plants. The 
 plants were purchased, magnificent rhubarb was raised and 
 then — the awakening! The wholesale grocers looked ask- 
 ance at rhubarb oflfered them in midwinter. Evidently the 
 wonderful tales of world-wide markets clamoring for car- 
 loads of Winter Rhubarb had not reached them! Retail 
 grocers were almost equally .mistrustful of the new product 
 and with good reason, for that maker of markets, the ulti- 
 mate consumer, was slow to make up his mind that he even 
 wanted to sample the stuff until his spring-time hunger 
 forced him to it and while he waited — the rhubarb wilted, 
 When the grocer finally had to dump out half a box of rot- 
 ten rhubarb he was naturally in no great haste to repeat the 
 dose. The rhubarb grower sadly closed up his ledger in red 
 ink and retired from business — that is, the most of them 
 did. Some plowed out the fair deceiver. Others left their 
 patches of rhubarb to the mercy of the elements and, sur- 
 viving its neglect and the drain on its food supply by its 
 companioning weeds, their prized rhubarb struggled on to a 
 
43 
 
 miserable growth of spindling stems which were again of- 
 fered for sale the following winter. Meantime a fresh crop 
 of planters had been drawn into the enticing business, to re- 
 peat the pathetic experiences of their predecessors. 
 
 But there was some relief to this sordid and sorry pic- 
 ture. Among those who went into Winter Rhubarb were 
 some who were more aggressive, more resourceful and far- 
 ther sighted than the average. While compelled to temper 
 their expectations in accordance with actual conditions, they 
 nevertheless contrived to make sufficient returns to justify 
 the undertaking and so kept up their fields. In the mean- 
 time, by dint of continued offerings from year to year, a 
 very satisfactory local market was gradually built up. 
 
 Still, much more rhubarb was produced than home 
 markets could consume and some scattering efforts were 
 made to ship to eastern cities in carlots. All these efforts 
 were unsuccessful for the same reasons which had caused 
 California markets to develop so slowly, though some small 
 experimental shipments brought good returns. 
 
 Finally the problem was solved. Looking back over the 
 history of this work, the solution appears so natural and in- 
 evitable that we are inclined to wonder that it was not earl- 
 ier thought of. 
 
 In the eastern States rhubarb is the first edible open- 
 air plant available after the grip of winter is broken. Com- 
 bining a fruit-like acid and flavor it is relished and prized 
 above any other food in the early spring. It has become a 
 fixed national habit to look for it at that time of the year 
 and on account of the supply being limited relative to the de- 
 mand it then commands a fancy price. 
 
 This early spring market invited the entrance of Cali- 
 fornia rhubarb and heavy shipments, made just anticipating 
 the eastern crop, became profitable. With this as the en- 
 tering point of the wedge, the shipping season was gradu- 
 ally extended, starting each year a little earlier and increas- 
 ing the range of distribution through wider territory, until 
 
44 
 
 now there is a period of over two months before eastern rhu- 
 barb appears, during which time CaHfornia rhubarb is sold 
 in carlots in fine shape. This has crowded the time forward 
 until now practically all of February and March the market 
 is lively in the east and present indications are that within 
 another year or two the month of January will be added to 
 this period. 
 
 The first shipments of summer growing rhubarb varie- 
 ties from California do not reach the east until the second 
 week of March, or within a range of one week earlier or 
 later than that time, so the earlier shipments are entirely 
 Winter Rhubarb. This gives the grower of Winter Rhu- 
 barb who is so situated as to be able to make his first pick- 
 ing by the first of February the opportunity of disposing of 
 two full pickings, thus giving this business a renewed im- 
 petus — this time with the solid ground of an established 
 market under it. 
 
 From May to November, inclusive, it is not worth while 
 to expend any great effort in trying to sell rhubarb and, 
 besides, the plants need rest. After connections have been 
 established to take care of the winter and spring produc- 
 tion, it will pay to keep in touch with them during the sum- 
 mer, for it will often be found that a small supply of fancy 
 rhubarb can be kept going profitably through that time. 
 There are many people who like rhubarb for its own sake 
 and are ready for it at ail times of the year. 
 
 Little development has yet been made of eastern mar- 
 kets for rhubarb in the months of December and January, 
 though during those two months the highest prices of all 
 can be obtained from small fancy express shipments. These 
 are pioneering the way at present and, as stated above, 
 January bids fair to be soon included in the period of heavy 
 shipments. December will probably eventually be included, 
 judging from the way our express trade is building up, and 
 when it is, the most favorably situated Winter Rhubarb 
 
- 45 
 
 groAVers will be able to send out their three pickings in good 
 seasons. 
 
 These large marketing developments were only made 
 possible by large operations. The best results have been 
 achieved by co-operative efforts, both rhubarb associations 
 and vegetable growers' associations. When you are in a po- 
 sition to ship co-operatively with other growers who will en- 
 gage to keep their grade up to a high standard, you then 
 have practically nothing to do but to grow your fancy rhu- 
 barb, deliver it to your association and draw your money. 
 In Alameda County is the San Lorenzo Rhubarb Growers* 
 Association, said to comprise 87 per cent of the northern 
 acreage. An association of rhubarb growers was started in 
 Southern California some years ago, w^hile the market was 
 still in its infancy, but failed to survive the discouragements 
 of that period. Undoubtedly a re-organization will be ef- 
 fected in the near future owing to the example set by the 
 brilliant success of the northern association. For the pres- 
 ent its place in Southern California is taken by various 
 vegetable associations, who have recently been marketing 
 rhubarb very successfully. As an instance, I haye just at 
 hand a report of the Orange County Vegetable Association, 
 dated Feb. 14, 1915, stating that they had just sold a car of 
 Winter Rhubarb in Chicago for $2.00 per box. This being 
 six and two-thirds cents a pound should net the growers 
 very nearly five cents f. o. b. cars. 
 
 Co-operative marketing associations handling mixed 
 products are springing up all over the State and observing 
 the way the question is being taken up by the various Farm 
 Bureaus, it is a safe prediction that we are at the threshold 
 of an era of co-operative marketing of general products in 
 California. 
 
 Reference to the success of the San Lorenzo Associa- 
 tion would be incomplete without mention of the really 
 splendid work done by the Pioneer Fruit Company (who 
 contract with the association for their entire product), in 
 
46 
 
 working up the distribution of California spring rhubarb 
 throughout the eastern markets. 
 
 Commencing in 1909, when they only had two markets 
 in the east which would even consider buying any rhubarb, 
 they shipped small lots in mixed cars in an experimental 
 way. The experiment was continued along the same lines 
 in 1910, in which season they succeeded in netting thp 
 growers an average of 43 cents per packed box. These are 
 40-pound boxes, so the margin of profit to the growers was 
 very small. 
 
 Modest as these early returns were, they showed a 
 promising field and in 1911 the company undertook ship- 
 ments in carlots, shipping in that year over 30,000 boxes 
 (68 1/2 cars) for which the growers averaged .798 per packed 
 box. In 1912 they shipped 104,000 boxes and averaged 83 
 cents; in 1913, 80,000 boxes (short crop), averaging .977; in 
 
 1914, 80,000 boxes, averaging $1,103 net to the growers and 
 also cleaned up all the poor rhubarb to the canneries at from 
 S25.00 to $35.00 per ton. 
 
 In a communication addressed to the writer, Feb. 1, 
 
 1915, their president, Senator Chas. B. Bills, stated: 'This 
 season we will probably net about $1.25, for we have made 
 such a distribution of this stock that we now have more 
 customers on our books than we have rhubarb; and only 
 fourteen packages of our total shipments last year were con- 
 signed. The balance all sold f. o. b. Every grower knew 
 vviiat the f . 0. b. prices were and consequently knew w^hat we 
 v/ere getting for the stock, less our charges." 
 
 The San Lorenzo Association, aided by the efficient dis- 
 tribution of the Pioneer Fruit Company, have borne the 
 greatest part in establishing the market for California rhu- 
 barb on a sound basis. 
 
 If you are isolated or in a locality where co-operative 
 shipments are not practical, postage stamps cost only 2 
 cents apiece and one will take your message to the farthest 
 corner of the United States. Shipments of small standing 
 
47 
 
 ^ orders direct to retailers are very practical. As these should 
 'be made on a monthly account basis, it is important to look 
 into the financial standing and reputation of firms before 
 addressing them. This can best be done through a mer- 
 cantile agency such as R.<Sp. Dun & Co. or the Produce Re- 
 porter. If your business is not large enough to warrant 
 subscription to one or both of these agencies, just go to the 
 nearest Wells Fargo agent and ask him for the name of the 
 Route Agent who covers the territory in which you are sit- 
 uated. From him you can get, without cost, lists of whole- 
 sale and retail grocers of best standing in any city you wish 
 and frequently he will be m a position to render even mort 
 valuable service. 
 
 Sample shipments are effective in placing new orders, 
 but be sure that your subsequent shipments are always up 
 to the mark of the samples you send out. I have done much 
 of this sort of business and have been fortunate enough 
 never to lose an account. A practical development I have 
 made of this work is to correspond with a commission mer- 
 chant in a city where I have a few retail customers, and to 
 turn their orders over to him, at the same time giving him 
 ''the exclusive" for that city. This has always resulted in 
 establishing a nice trade. 
 
 There is very little risk involved in shipping to repu- 
 table commission houses, when the shipper does his part by 
 sending only first-class stock, well packed. Never send in- 
 ferior rhubarb to market. There are times when poor rhu- 
 barb, badly packed, blunders into a market that happens to 
 be short against a lively demand and, through no virtue of 
 its own, finds a temporary sale at a good price. These ex- 
 ceptional instances do not count against the broad fact that 
 such rhubarb is most likely to prove a drug on any market. 
 The culture which has been described will always result in a 
 heavy yield of the finest rhubarb and none other than a 
 strictly fancy grade should ever be considered. 
 
 Good soil and plenty of manure, correct culture of good 
 
plants, altogether make fancy rhubarb. This packed attrac- 
 tively — and, above all, honestly — gives you a choice article 
 to sell. Sell co-operatively wherever possible. Where this 
 cannot be done at the start, write your letters and send your 
 samples. Start early, go slow at first and be persistent. 
 With these few simple rules you are bound to succeed. 
 
49 
 
 , A page from the writer's personal experience may be 
 helpful as illustrating what can be accomplished in market- 
 ing from an isolated situation. 
 
 Prior to 1911 I had given considerable attention to Win- 
 ter Rhubarb and thought I knew both the plant and the 
 market. I did know the plant — on a comparatively small 
 scale and also knew the Los Angeles and San Francisco mar- 
 kets fairly well. I was informed by several parties whom 
 I considered reliable that Winter Rhubarb was being suc- 
 cessfully shipped to the east in carlots and finding a great 
 demand on the markets there. I finally decided to under- 
 take the rhubarb business on a rather extensive scale, plan- 
 ning to work exclusively on a carlot basis to eastern mar- 
 kets. This decision was principally shaped by the excessive 
 land values prevailing within a radius of twenty-five to 
 thirty miles of Los Angeles. It seemed better business to 
 settle in a more isolated location and put in a larger acreage 
 of less expensive land. 
 
 After considerable search, I finally purchased land in 
 the San Luis Rey Valley, about 45 miles from San Diego and 
 90 miles from Los Angeles, developed water and planted 
 about 25 acres to Winter Rhubarb. By November, 1911, 
 the rhubarb was making great headway and I commenced 
 negotiations looking to the disposal of my anticipated crop. 
 Each party I approached passed me on to some one else, so 
 I finally was forced to the conclusion that the eastern mar- 
 ket story was a myth. I made a flying trip to the east, meet- 
 ing the leading commission merchants in the largest cities. 
 I found California rhubarb unknown except for March ship- 
 ments made by the Pioneer Fruit Co., and those v/ere just 
 in their infancy and none too successful at that time. 
 
 I found one firm in Chicago who thought a Christmas 
 carload could be handled and shipped them a car in Decem- 
 ber. The shipment was a failure, but instructive. When 
 the car was opened, the first boxes sold at 8^2 cents per 
 pound but selling was slow and prices declined within a iew 
 
50 
 
 days, the first hundred boxes averaging 6 cents per pound. 
 Sales became slower as the rhubarb got older until the car 
 was finally closed out nearly two months after picking, at 
 an average selling price of a shade under 3 cents a pound. 
 
 The lesson taught in this experience may be summed 
 up in one word, distribution. If our rhubarb could have 
 been scattered widely enough to have sold it all out immed- 
 iately on arrival, in other words, if there had been efficient 
 distribution, it would have yielded a net return of from 5 
 to 6 cents per pound, f . o. b. cars. 
 
 F'or a time matters looked dubious, as I did not feel 
 able to take the heavy chances involved in shipping in such 
 large packages into markets which needed educating. 
 
 Realizing that the failure of this carlot had been pri- 
 marily due to lack of distribution, whereby the matter was 
 inevitably reduced to a deal in old, faded, wilted rhubarb, I 
 decided to m^ake some investigation of possible express trade 
 direct to retailers. My main talking point was, ''fresh from 
 the field" to the grocer, giving him a strictly fresh stock 
 which he could clean up quickly and eliminating waste. With 
 this idea I wrote a few letters to retail grocers in Arizona. 
 The first return mail brought me a few orders, showing that 
 the idea was appreciated, I then got up a little circular and 
 had letters printed in a multigraph shop and started my 
 campaign. 
 
 By this system I sold over $4,000.00 worth of rhubarb 
 in the first year from about ten acres. This is not a very 
 brilliant showing but is given as an example of an escape 
 from a difficult situation in an isolated location by a means 
 within the reach of anyone. Several factors contributed to 
 keep this return down ; one, a freeze by which I lost several 
 weeks out of the best season. The principal factor was the 
 experimental nature of this early work, learning when my 
 trade wanted their main supply and learning to manage my 
 fields so as to have the rhubarb at the proper time to match 
 
51 
 
 their requirements. At the same time, the total investment 
 here was barely $400.00 per acre, so this modest return was 
 actually 100 per cent on the proportionate capitalization, 
 consequently there was no ground for complaint aiter all. 
 
 This was pioneering work but served to open markets 
 where commission merchants had previously been apathetic. 
 Since that first year I have gradually placed nearly all my 
 rhubarb with reliable commission merchants and have nar- 
 rowed my territory as the market has improved until now 
 I ship almost exclusively to Texas and Missouri. 
 
 These are entirely express shipments and net me an 
 average of over 4 cents per pound, f. o. b. cars, from Decem- 
 ber to the middle of April, being based on selling prices 
 ranging from 7 to 10 cents per pound, wholesale. This is 
 evidence that here is a great opening for carlot shipments 
 by freight as soon as acreage is developed sufficient to sup- 
 ply the necessary rhubarb. The saving in transportation 
 charges would amount to from 2 to 21/2 cents per pound and 
 experience has proved that fully ten times as much rhubarb 
 can be sold at 5 to 7 cents, wholesale, as can be sold at 8 to 
 10 cents. 
 
 Every effort should be made towards organized or co- 
 operative marketing. Men's gifts run in different direc- 
 tions. If a man is a good farmer it is usually because his 
 gift lies that way. His highest efficiency will come through 
 the developing of his ovv^n especial talent and not being forc- 
 ed to try to make a salesman — likely a poor salesman — out 
 of a good farmer. From every angle the argument is all in 
 favor of co-operation. 
 
 The following suggestions, quoted from P. M. Kiely's 
 ''Southern Fruits and Vegetables for Northern Markets," 
 will be found useful by intending shippers. 
 
 ''SHOULD PRODUCERS ORGANIZE TO MARKET 
 THEIR PRODUCTS? 
 
 "Most of the receivers of perishable products will an- 
 swer this query in the affirmative, because a great many 
 
52 
 
 valid reasons may be advanced to show the benefits arising 
 from organization. The pioneers in successful organization 
 were the fruit growers of California. In the early stages 
 of their efforts to grow fruits and vegetables for distant 
 markets, they were beset by obstacles difficult to surmount. 
 The item of distance to paying markets and the question of 
 transportation and rates called for the ablest men in the 
 industry. Powerful corporations had to be handled in the 
 interest of the producer; living rates, faster time and im- 
 proved methods were demanded, and the railroads saw the 
 wisdom of yielding, as the concessions tended to largely in- 
 crease their business every year — and the enormous traffic 
 which followed is no longer news to anybody. 
 
 "The further from market the greater the need of get- 
 ting together, as the risk increases with the distance. In 
 this connection, the routing and distribution of the goods 
 becomes very important, and cannot be successfully handled 
 without organization. Wherever there is any considerable 
 number of growers or shippers, steps should be taken to- 
 wards organization. Elect officers to direct affairs for the 
 coming season. Good, responsible, experienced firms should 
 be selected to handle your products in every city you desire 
 to reach. 
 
 ''Such firms are bound to take better care of your in- 
 terests than of individuals, because there is more at stake 
 and the merchant realizes that if he makes a mistake or at 
 any time misleads you in his advices, he is likely to be drop- 
 ped for somebody else. One telegram or letter serves all — 
 and the labor saved at both ends, by dealing with one man 
 instead of twelve or fifty, becomes apparent. The commis- 
 sion man charges the association 7 instead of 10 per cent, 
 and it really pays him better, because of work and time 
 saved. 
 
 'In dealing with transportation companies and other 
 corporations, your claims would receive attention where the 
 
53 
 
 individual would fail; recalling the old adage that in 'Union 
 there is strength.' In buying your packages, fertilizers, 
 seeds or anything else needed by the community, you can 
 secure better terms than an individual. x\ll sorts of con- 
 cessions are made to such bodies, the profits being greater 
 and the risks less — all of which is natural and customary in 
 every channel of trade. Incidentally, the isolated shippers 
 at the smaller shipping points are protected to a beneficial 
 extent, as the unions and larger bodies elsewhere, who are 
 posted daily by wire, in a great measure even up and save 
 all the markets. 
 
 "IN REGARD TO PACKING. 
 
 "Growers and shippers of fruit cannot realize, unless 
 they were here to see it opened, how it injures the sale and 
 depreciates the value of their goods to find inferior fruit 
 mixed in, and covered up, in good fruit. Put in no inferior 
 fruit of any kind. We know it is difficult to watch pickers 
 where a great many are engaged, especially inexperienced 
 hands, but the successful grower will take timely steps, 
 whatever his hurry, to guard against such a serious mis- 
 take. Topping off, putting on top all the good fruit in the 
 box, is also a mistake, and its injustice must be apparent to 
 the most indifferent. Let the surface represent a good aver- 
 age of the contents, but no effort should be made to practice 
 a deception. It injures the man most who practices it. 
 
 "Remember your name or stencil number is on the 
 packages, and the buyer commits to memory very readily 
 the brand which deceived him. 
 
 "Some of the crooked brands are so well known in this 
 market that it is difficult to find a buyer for them, even at a 
 big reduction. Every dealer is trying to secure the best 
 trade, which can only be accomplished by having nice, uni- 
 form fruit. We repeat, let your fruit run straight and do 
 not injure your reputation by trying to deceive anybody. 
 
54 
 
 Packing is a most important part of the business and can- 
 not be studied too closely, and you cannot get out of the 
 business what it is capable of yielding unless your packing 
 is done as it should be. 
 
 "It is proper to state that the demand for cheap or in- 
 ferior products, either fruits or vegetables, has fallen off to 
 a wonderful extent the past five or six years. Of late years 
 there has been very little demand for anything but first- 
 class goods. In former years cheap goods were not so neg- 
 lected. The peddlers and cheap class that formerly bought 
 second-hand products now look for better stock at better 
 prices. Take strawberries, tomatoes, cucumbers, etc., which 
 come in steadily during the winter and early spring, only 
 strictly choice can be sold to advantage. Anything the least 
 bit 'off,' either in quality or condition, is not wanted, be- 
 cause the peddlers and cheaper class do not take out such 
 goods in winter. It is very difficult to place such even at 
 half price or less. Shippers and growers should govern their 
 actions accordingly. There is money only in the best stock. 
 These remarks apply to all markets. 
 
 ''BREAKING DOWN THE MARKET. 
 
 "Remember, the market is never broken down by good 
 fruit. It is the great quantity of poor fruit that oppresses 
 the market and forces down prices. We are as interested 
 in sustaining the market and prices as you are, because 
 when prices are down we get nothing for our labor, and 
 hence we urge more good stock and less poor and indifferent 
 stuff. How much more profitable and satisfactory to get 
 $20.00 net from ten packages fruit, than to get only the 
 same sum from twenty packages. 
 
 "Remember, the packages used for poor fruit costs as 
 much, and the freight, drayage and all expenses just as 
 iruch on the inferior as on the best goods — reducing the net 
 
55 
 
 proceeds to a mere trifle. No profit can be made shipping 
 poor perishables of any kind. 
 
 '^RECEIVERS UNJUSTLY BLAMED. 
 
 "As a sample of how commission men can be unjustly 
 censured, we will relate an experience of our own which oc- 
 curred recently. One of our Missouri apple shippers, whom 
 we esteem very much for his liberal patronage, made a ship- 
 ment which we reported by wire same day received — as in 
 bad order, slack barrels, specks, faulty fruit and bad packing 
 generally. On receipt of the wire he replied we must be 
 mistaken, that it could not be his fruit. We telegraphed him 
 to come down on the first train, and if we were wrong would 
 pay the expenses of the trip, an offer he accepted. Vve 
 showed him his fruit, which he admitted was his, opened 
 some barrels not yet touched, and found them about same 
 as those complained of. He expressed a great deal of sur- 
 prise at its condition and how it depreciated in value in such 
 a short time. He saw then very forcibly the result of rough 
 handling of fruit which should be carefully hand-picked, 
 and the poor economy in hiring cheap, green hands for the 
 picking and packing of his apples. He admitted the fault 
 lay chiefly with the help, who did not follow his instructions 
 in packing. His trip paid him and ourselves, too. 
 
 "HINTS TO SHIPPERS. 
 
 "A number of shippers, the new ones especially, when 
 they receive a stencil, regard the number on it as the street 
 number of the firm sending it out. This number really rep- 
 resents the shipper's address — being placed in our books op- 
 posite his name as soon as sent out. Each has a different 
 number. His address on the package in addition to stencil 
 number is therefore superfluous. 
 
 ''The stenciling should be on the cover of the package, 
 serving as it does, to keep the right side up. Such packages 
 as strawberry cases should also be branded on both ends. 
 
56 
 
 ''If you have no stencil, a lead pencil can be used to 
 write the firm's address, and your own should follow, writ- 
 ing the word 'from' between them. 
 
 "A shipper frequently borrows his neighbor's stencil, 
 and uses it without notifying his commission house, or 
 scratching or leaving off the number. You can see how this 
 will complicate matters. Your neighbor will get the returns, 
 and if he refuses to settle with you the commission house 
 must pay twice or incur your everlasting displeasure. 
 
 "If there are any empty boxes in a crate, always make 
 lead pencil note of same on cover ; and if two or three varie- 
 ties are in same package, as is sometimes the case, indicate 
 it in the sam.e way. 
 
 "In the midst of the fruit season every commission 
 house is driven to death and has no time to either write or 
 ask for explanations. If you do not hear from your ship- 
 ment promptly, you may consider something is wrong; so 
 send in a few lines asking and giving explanation in connec- 
 tion therewith. 
 
 "When shipping by freight always notify consignee by 
 sending receipts or otherwise. 
 
 "Never use large or irregular nails for fruit boxes or 
 crates; such spoil the appearance of the package and injure 
 the sale. 
 
 "A common error by shippers is that of waiting too 
 long before ordering their fruit boxes. They are often de- 
 tained on the way, and frequently the box factory is crowd- 
 ed with orders and you must wait, and your fruit is spoiling 
 in the meantime. 
 
 "Saturday is always the poorest day in the week to sell 
 to advantage, as no shipments are made on that day. Thurs- 
 days and Fridays are about the best selling days, the out- 
 side order trade on such days being heaviest, and local deal- 
 ers also buy largely on Thursdays and Fridays, all being at 
 home at their places of business retailing on Saturday — 
 
57 
 
 their big day of the week. No business in the produce dis- 
 trict Saturday afternoon. 
 
 ''Avoid as far as possible getting goods into market on 
 Saturday evening or Sunday morning. They will keep much 
 better in the country than in the city. Monday morning the 
 market is usually a little bare, and Sunday night shipments 
 strike a good market generally. 
 
 "SUGGESTIONS TO SHIPPERS. 
 
 "1. When making consignments always write your 
 Commission Merchant, stating what shipped, number of 
 packages, whether by express or local freight, date shipped, 
 road shipped by, contents, etc. 
 
 ''2. If shipment consists of a carload, always wire the 
 car number and initials of car and name of road car will be 
 delivered over at destination, so consignee can know where 
 to look for car and what car to look for, as somie cities have 
 four or five roads over which a car can arrive. 
 
 ''3. It is always best .to insert on bill of lading the 
 name of delivering line. 
 
 "4. In shipping draft bill lading attached or order 
 notify, shippers will avoid confusion and in good many cases 
 severe losses by inserting on the bill of lading the clause 
 Termit inspection without surrender of bill of lading.' 
 
 ''5. Shippers will make money by advising their mei'- 
 chants v^/hat the correct rate of freight on their shipments 
 is, and will greatly assist in preventing over-charges by 
 sending bills of lading with the rate inserted. 
 
 "6. In case shipments are diverted after having been 
 made, the house to whom shipment was originally made 
 should be always advised promptly. 
 
 ''MIXED CARS. 
 
 "Mixed cars should be shipped whenever possible. 
 Crops maturing about the same time could be shipped to 
 
58 
 
 better advantage in this way. A mixed car can be sold 
 quicker than can straight cars of anything. Take the com- 
 mission house who has the usual following of grocers, 
 butchers, market men and small dealers — they all handle a 
 variety of such goods, and if they can secure all at one store 
 it is to their advantage to do so. It's a convenience to both 
 buyer and seller. 
 
 ^'COLLECTING FOR LOSS OR DAMAGE. 
 
 *'The work of collecting from the express companies for 
 damage to goods while en route, or loss through rough and 
 hurried handling at transfer points or after arrival at des- 
 tination, or through long or unreasonable time en route, or 
 shortage in contents of packages, which occasionally ap- 
 pears, should not be as difficult to collect as heretofore. 
 These companies are now under the jurisdiction of the In- 
 terstate Commerce Commission, are common carriers, and 
 must recognize all proper claims of their patrons. 
 
 ''We recall one occasion where we filed claim against 
 the Adams Express Company, and after waiting for a long 
 time — after repeated calls for settlement, we were informed 
 they had lost the papers in the case. When a firm is thus 
 deprived of the only weapon they can use, they are practic- 
 ally helpless. The express ticket, on which notations were 
 made of the damages or loss, is the vital part of the evidence. 
 Hence, in presenting your claim, file a duplicate and not the 
 original, which may be useful later.'* 
 
 Before leaving this marketing chapter we must pause 
 to pay our respects to those beguiling sources of misinfor- 
 mation, the "price currents" or "produce reports" published 
 by the daily newspapers. The best that can be said for 
 these is that they make a very rough diagram of a general 
 market tendency in staples and seasonal products. Anyone 
 who has had experience in selling any special line of produce 
 will realize the full force of this without further comment, 
 
59 
 
 but for the benefit of those who have not had such exper- 
 ience it should be stated that the current prices quoted are 
 hopelessly unreliable and misleading. Often a high price 
 will be quoted day after day when there is not a single pack- 
 age being sold for more than half the published price and, 
 just as often, quotations will be published far below the ac- 
 tual sales. Grades and classifications are often mistreated, 
 prices for inferior or damaged stock being given as repre- 
 sentative of a certain variety while another variety may be 
 quoted on the basis of a few sales of fancy stock. 
 
 At the present season (March) summer rhubarb, 
 ''strawberry," etc., makes its appearance and figures largely 
 in price quotations, usually quoted higher than most actual 
 sales. Under these circumstances ''Crimson Winter" be- 
 comes a rather misleading term, as it is frequently applied 
 to the inferior stock of that variety but quoted without dis- 
 tinguishing the grade. My experience has proved that the 
 conscientious grower and shipper of Winter Rhubarb has 
 nothing to fear from the competition of summer varieties, 
 no matter what "the papers say." As an example of this, 
 with "stravv^berry" rhubarb quoted at 4 cents per pound and 
 "Crimson Winter" at 21/2 cents to 3 cents, I have received 5 
 cents for mine and in addition have had the satisfaction of 
 receiving v/ord from my consignee that other commission 
 houses were purchasing my stock because they had custom- 
 ers who knew what my name meant when stamped on a rhu- 
 barb crate and who insisted on getting that package. Fancy 
 rhubarb and an honest pack is beyond competition. Neither 
 name of variety nor price-current quotations will have much 
 effect on your sales-account check. 
 
60 
 
 Chapter VIII. 
 PROPOGATION AND DEVELOPMENT. 
 
 Rhubarb is grown either from planting seed or root di- 
 vision. It is well for every grower of Winter Rhubarb to 
 understand the essentials of both these methods because the 
 best improvement and development of quality and yield can 
 be made by each grower for himself. This does not mean 
 that the "specialist" is to be dispensed with. Quite the con- 
 trary. There are a multitude of details to be observed in 
 handling seed and in root work, all of which are susceptible 
 of great improvement. The necessary experience and study 
 are only practical for one who is specialising on the subject. 
 The skill and knowledge developed in his special training 
 enable him to sell plants cheaper than one who lacks the 
 same training can grow them for himself. At the same time, 
 every grower's soil and climatic conditions differ in greater 
 or less degree from those of every other and, with a reason- 
 able amount of original experiment, it will be possible for 
 him to develop the strain best suited to his own environment. 
 
 It is impossible absolutely to standardize any given set 
 of valuable characteristics in rhubarb. All efforts along 
 narrow or hard-and-fast lines will bring disappointing re- 
 sults when applied to practical field conditions. Such nar- 
 row plans find a parallel in those of the breeders of so-called 
 ''fancy stock." Fancy stock breeding has had its day and 
 no longer interests real people. Utility is now our slogan, 
 and we are working for hens that lay more and heavier eggs 
 and cows that give more and richer milk. Of course we can- 
 not crowd this parallel too closely. The idea is, that the type 
 of rhubarb has not yet been produced which will not prove 
 a limitation if too strictly followed. Furthermore, it is evi- 
 dent from what we already know of rhubarb, that no such 
 fixed type will ever be found. 
 
 Broadly, we should concern ourselves with essentials, 
 
61 
 
 leaving the superficial traits to one side as of secondary, if 
 any, importance. The essentials are nutrition, temperature 
 range, number of leaves in the seed stem series, tendency to 
 multiply crowns, and form of growth. Color, marking and 
 shape of stems are superficial qualities and should never be 
 used to base selections, nor even considered except second- 
 arily. 
 
 Uniform coloring and marking have no bearing on mar- 
 ketability. Rhubarb is rhubarb and if it can line a pie ac- 
 ceptably very little else matters. Vividness of color, fine 
 texture of skin, crispness, size of stems, all are vital quali- 
 ties in the market, but these are all dependent upon good 
 culture — plus our first essential quality, nutrition. 
 
 Taking up these essentials in more detail, nutrition is 
 the first and most important factor for development. The 
 ability to transform an abundant provision of plant food and 
 water rapidly into a heavy growth of leaf and stem is the 
 first test of a rhubarb plant. 
 
 The faculty of a plant (which is satisfactory as regards 
 nutrition) of functioning through a low temperature range 
 is also an important basis for selections of Winter Rhubarb. 
 Many a fine, thrifty plant, selected from its good appear- 
 ance in March or April, may be found in January or Febru- 
 ary with nothing to recommend it. For this reason selec- 
 tions should be made on a basis of growth in the cooler 
 months. 
 
 The third and fourth essentials are very closely asso- 
 ciated. Usually, the fewer leaves in the series the more will 
 crowns multiply. Therefore a balance between the two ex- 
 tremes is the most desirable object. Probably the best 
 method in this selection is simply to cull out and reject those 
 plants which multiply most freely, leaving further selections 
 on this basis until after considerable study of the proportion 
 best suited to the locality. 
 
 It is commonly thought that the tendency to seed stem 
 
62 
 
 is variable in a given plant, according to the season or other 
 factors. I have come to the conclusion, after extensive ob- 
 servation and close study, that every rhubarb plant has its 
 own fixed and pre-determined number of leaves in the series 
 from bud to seed. This can be learned by keeping a record 
 of the number of leaves produced in this series on all the 
 crowns of a plant and further confirmed by careful dissec- 
 tion of a crown within eight or ten leaves of seeding. On 
 dissection the series of leaves will be found cunningly nested, 
 each within the stipule of its predecessor, finally, after be- 
 coming microscopically small, disappearing in a drop of 
 jelly-like substance at the center of the crown. When with- 
 in eight or ten leaves of seeding, this series will be found to 
 terminate in a miniature seed stem, showing that at least 
 in as far as those eight or ten leaves are concerned, no con- 
 dition or influence brought to bear on the plant could add to 
 or take from their number. Cull plants will sometimes be 
 found among seedlings which will have no more than ten 
 leaves in their entire series, so that they never have a 
 chance to develop a single sizable stem before they seed. On 
 the other hand, some plants have a surprising number of 
 leaves in their series. I have a few plants, now nearly five 
 years old, which have never seeded yet and most of which 
 have never developed one additional crown. 
 
 Therein lies the weakness of a selection from plants 
 with an abnormally long series. Their slowness to multiply 
 places their total yield far in the rear of plants which will 
 normally develop several strong crowns. 
 
 Selections based on form of growth may well be left to 
 the last. The most desirable form is that which grows up 
 straight and with the base of the leaf stern rather lightly 
 attached to the crown. Still, this is not of sufficient import- 
 ance to offset any lack of the other more important good 
 qualities. 
 
 The most desirable types, selected for their superiority 
 in these essential qualities, should be multiplied by root di- 
 
63 
 
 visions. In addition to this, some cuttings from the best 
 , plants oi all should be set out in a special plot and given the 
 best ot garden culture. These should not be picked bat 
 should be allowed to ripen their seed. They should be 
 rogued severely, taking at least half the bloom of every 
 bn^nch. As the seed ripens, tie paper caps on the stalks so 
 as not to lose or scatter any seed. Place a numbered stake 
 at each plant and keep a memorandum of its general de- 
 scription. Put the ripened seed from each plant in a sep- 
 arate bag numbered to correspond with the stake. When 
 the seed is sowed, place a stake with the proper number 
 with each row so that when you come to make your next 
 selections you will have a pedigree started. 
 
 While variation is an essential of the rhubarb nature 
 and will never be bred out, still heredity bears the most im- 
 portant part in improving types. A plot planted with the 
 seedlings of any selected plant will always bear a strong 
 family resemblance to its ancestor, so while narrow lines 
 cannot be maintained, still general averages can be bred for 
 with a satisfactory gain in each successive generation. 
 
 The inevitable variations which will persist through a 
 system of development based on seed selection ( with the 
 most satisfactory types multiplied by root divisions) is a 
 great advantage of itself. These small variations give a 
 range of adaptability to varying conditions, causing a field 
 of seedlings to make a better average, hence a greater total, 
 tonnage than a field of the parent plants developed as a fixed 
 type of straight root divisions. 
 
 For one thing, selection of any single plant for the fixed 
 type for universal planting is hopelessly handicapped by the 
 fact that in respect of the prime essential quality, that of 
 nutrition, the plant will re-act differently with altered con- 
 ditions. Nutrition is the core of its very being. According 
 as that quality is affected a plant will vary so widely as to 
 be unrecognizable in its changed aspect. This is true of all 
 plant life, but more especially does it apply to a plant such 
 
64 
 
 as rhubarb, the very soul of whose most desirable qualities 
 is rapid, lush, unchecked growth. Furthermore, all varia- 
 tions which gradually make their appearance in subdivi- 
 sions have a constant tendency along lines of degeneration. 
 This is noticeable in a long series of root propogation in a 
 given locality, but seems to be more accentuated when suc- 
 cessive generations of cuttings are planted under diverse 
 conditions of climate, soil, or culture. The stock so devel- 
 oped becom.es deficient in its power of acclimatization or ad- 
 justing itself to changed environment. Unless the change 
 is in every respect a change to more favoring conditions 
 than its original location the plant will degenerate and once 
 such degeneration sets in, it cannot be worked out through 
 further subdivisions. As a striking example of this law, 
 Bailey points to the potato, "varieties of which, in ten years 
 or less, become so mixed in their characters, through rapid 
 variation and deterioration, that we must return to seedling 
 productions for a new start." The law holds good with all 
 plants which are multiplied by dividing abnormally devel- 
 oped parts; all its variations tend to cause it eventually to 
 run out by degeneration. 
 
 This fundamental weakness of the attempted fixed type 
 runs counter to the over development of any arbitrary se- 
 lection. Still the broad fact remains that we reduce rhubarb 
 variations to their least range by root division and so can 
 temporarily extend our best types by that method to the 
 great advantage of field production. 
 
 Topps Winter Rhubarb, of Australia, is the parent stock 
 of California Winter Rhubarb. The four years it was stud- 
 ied and developed by Mr. Burbank barely covered two pos- 
 sible generations, in the line of direct descent. Out of his 
 experiments he selected t^he plant he sold to the trade in 
 1900, Burbank's Crimson Winter Rhubarb. Mr. J. B. Wag- 
 ner purchased his first Crimson Winter plants in the fall of 
 1901 and his famous Giant was evidently one of the first 
 
65 
 
 seedlings from these first plants, as he states that it origi- 
 nated with him in 1903 — barely time for maturing one gen- 
 I eration. Contrary to Mr. Wagner's opinion, this "Giant" is 
 not a hybrid. None of its seedling offspring in any succeed- 
 ing generation have shown any recessive characters. The 
 conclusion based on this evidence is incontrovertible. 
 
 It follows that with such improvement in not more than 
 three consecutive generations we have evidently a wonder- 
 fully plastic material to work with for future improvements. 
 It is also evident that we must pick ourselves out of the rut 
 we have gotten into in respect to our blind acceptation of the 
 standards set by the very limited selections thus far made. 
 
 The two best starting points today are Burbank's Crim- 
 son Winter (not his **Giant") and Wagner's Giant Crimson 
 Winter. The latter is the better plant in two important re- 
 spects; it is very slow to seed stem, that is, it has a very 
 long series of leaves (almost to a fault) and it makes, under 
 favoring conditions, a phenomenally thick, heavy stem. The 
 Burbank has much in its favor as a starting point for new 
 selections in that its effective temperature range is dis- 
 tinctly lower than the Wagner and besides it is more prolific 
 in its crown multiplication. When given a proper chance by 
 correct culture and plenty of fertilizer its stems, while not 
 as thick as the Giant, leave nothing to be desired from a 
 market standpoint and when so grown its satiny texture and 
 brilliant color are far superior to the Giant or in fact any 
 other field grown rhubarb. 
 
 From the foregoing it will be seen that it will hardly 
 pay to purchase seed except from a given selected plant with 
 which one is personally acquainted. We cannot yet state 
 positively how far the environment of the parent plant af- 
 fects the variability of its offspring, but such evidence as 
 we have indicates that environment is the most important 
 factor in the accentuation of hereditary tendencies, so we 
 must know our selected plant to be well nourished through 
 the period of its seeding. After planting seed it takes a year 
 
66 
 
 to mature a plant, consequently it takes two years to com- 
 plete a field test. For these reasons it is best to purchase 
 roots or root cuttings to begin with. If planted before July, 
 either of the two varieties named will give a good crop the 
 following winter and spring and their performance during 
 that period will furnish the needed data for selections of 
 parent plants for future breeding. 
 
 Before planting any selected seed, experiments should 
 be made with some waste seed in order to get practice in 
 controlling the moisture. Rhubarb seedlings are very liable 
 to damping off in their earlier stages and must be watched 
 very carefully over the critical period. 
 
 Plant one inch apart and not over an inch deep, cover- 
 ing with very fine soil. Transplant when two inches high to 
 a new bed, setting plants four inches apart in rows twelve 
 inches apart. Plant out in the field the following spring. Do 
 not have the seed bed too rich but the second bed should 
 have the finest of preparation and be well enriched with well 
 rotted manure. 
 
 The simplest and most uniformly successful method of 
 subdivision is by strong crowns. Dig up the plants to be di- 
 vided and, using a very sharp knife, cut out sections of the 
 root about six inches long, each bearing a complete crown at 
 the top. The leaf stems should of course be first cut off, leav- 
 ing about an inch on the crowns. The root sections should 
 all carry the root bark continuous from end to end on at 
 least one side. With proper care all such sections should 
 grow. An especially desirable plant can be multiplied very 
 rapidly by propogating the buds which grow in the axils of 
 all the leaves. For this a small section of crown and root 
 substance is dissected out with each bud and after drying 
 slightly these tiny sets are rooted in sand boxes, afterwards 
 being transplanted twice, the same as seedlings. The main 
 difficulty is in preserving just the right balance of moisture 
 so that they will neither dry out nor damp off. Even with 
 the utmost care and skill it seems impossible to avoid a con- 
 
67 
 
 siderable percentage of loss in this delicate work and onh^ 
 the most desirable and valuable plant will justify the care 
 ' necessary to succeed in it. 
 
 The scope of one's experiments will naturally depend in 
 great measure upon the proportionate part rhubarb bears in 
 his farming. Still there is no reason why every garden 
 should not be an actual experiment station on a larger or 
 smaller scale. If we have the right point of view there is 
 nothing to prevent the greatest successes springing from 
 the smallest or most obscure sources. 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 Looking back over these pages I am constrained to add 
 a few words by way of explanation. 
 
 The most of what is here set down represents the con- 
 centrated results of several years' experience and many 
 points are so briefly phrased as to appear almost dogmatic. 
 With more time at my disposal I could probably have given 
 you a more interesting book by v/riting more of the detailed 
 experiments and experiences leading up to the conclusions 
 here given. Still, while the book could have undoubtedly 
 been made more entertaining to you and in every way bet- 
 ter from a literary standpoint, it is after all just intended to 
 be a practical manual of Winter Rhubarb culture and its 
 ultimate value to you will depend solely upon just how prac- 
 tical you find its directions to be. 
 
 The effort has been made, upon the whole, to stick 
 strictly to rhubarb, leaving such matters as depend on gen- 
 eral agricultural principles to be gotten from the ample 
 sources of information available to all. Consideration of 
 many relatively small and unimportant factors has been left 
 to the natural experience of anyone who engages in thif? 
 work, as being their quickest and best instructor. The main 
 
68 
 
 thing is to save you from going wrong on vital matters — 
 and if that much is accompHshed it may be that the very 
 brevity of the book may stand in its favor. 
 
 One thing in particular I am so anxious to drive home 
 that I am going to re-accentuate it in this parting talk. The 
 possibilities of profit in Winter Rhubarb are tremendous. 
 Some are right now making fortunes in it and, now that thie 
 east has at last been opened to it, the next few years will 
 bring wealth to many more. With the improvements to be 
 brought about by future selections there will undoubtedly 
 be returns actually made far in advance of even our present 
 idea of its possibilities. In the face of all this I say, ''Don't 
 go into Winter Rhubarb expecting to make $1,500.00 nor 
 $1,000.00 nor $500.00 per acre nor any disproportionate re- 
 turn on your investment!" If you go into it with the idea 
 of making $1,000.00 per acre and tie yourself up in any way 
 so that you cannot afford to lose, then beware — for you will 
 surely lose. On the other hand, if you base your expecta- 
 tions on the reasonable proportionate return of 25 per cent 
 on your investment, even up to a total investment of $1,- 
 000.00 per acre, if your location is right, if your plants are 
 right, if your culture is right and if you handle your crop 
 right, you are more certain to make the expected return on 
 Winter Rhubarb than any other field or garden crop and 
 you will probably make 50 to 75 per cent and possibly much 
 more. 
 
 Another caution for intending planters — don't start in 
 too heavy. An experiment based on a few plants amounts 
 to practically nothing, so it is hardly worth while to experi- 
 ment with less than a quarter of an acre. On the other 
 hand, an experiment on the scale of several acres is also 
 pretty sure to be misleading. My personal advice to a be- 
 ginner would be not to set out more than an acre the first 
 year, no matter how well able to afford more, unless you are 
 already a successful gardener or farmer. 
 
69 
 
 These words of caution are especiaiiy directed to our 
 city dwelling friends who feel the pull, ''back to the land." 
 They are the ones most prone to make rash and expensive 
 experiments based on paper plans and I should deeply regret 
 being in any way the unwitting instrument of some of the 
 sad consequences of this sort of farming which I have seen. 
 
 REGINALD BLAND. 
 
 San Luis Rey, March 1, 1915.