.^^ "^* -iV v^ .^j:; ^^\^^v\, ^°^:^^'> .^<-^;:X co^c^^"-o ^^^ /.•i.;^.*°o ^o"^ »-^% -^^ ^o 'oK 0^ » 1 • »- - ■ - ^^ '/ , ■% .•{.^"•^ vy^.-y'-^i, -. ^''-i-. «* V #'% V .' .^^-^sK. " ;* > *•'■•• <« '* J^ o^ '> ^--^^^ -^^-^^^ '^^ *r^f»* .^^ ^o * a^tnout!) tercentenary c/ln ACCOUNT of the CELEBRATION of the LANDING of GEORGE WAY- MOUTH on the COAST o/^ MAINE t-^ f' y THE WAYMOUTH TERCENTENARY Tlie celebration of the tliree hundredth anniversary of George Waymouth's voyage to the coast of Maine in 1605 was celebrated at St. George's Harbor and in Thomaston on Thursday, July 6, 1905. That day was selected as a fitting day for the celebration on account of favorable tide conditions. In the preparations for the celebration most intel- ligent and efficient service was performed by Hon. Joseph E. Moore of Thomaston. As chairman of the Thomaston committee on the tercentenary he worked early and late for several months, devoting his time and energies very largely in the effort to make the celebration worthy of this historic town. He inspired his fellow townsmen with the same spirit that char- acterized his own labors, and he secured from the town at the annual town meeting generous financial aid. That this anniversary occasion was in every way successful was due in a very large measure to Mr. Moore's wise, strenuous and patriotic leadership. With him were associated in valued cooperative ser- vice the other members of the Thomaston committee. Hon. E. A. Butler of Rockland was helpful in matters pertaining to transportation. Mr. Frank B. Miller, a native of Gushing ( aided by Aug. S. Fales and Rev. Mr. Taylor ), marked places on the St. George's River and prepared a printed folder for the guests of the day giving interesting information concerning these places. A marker was provided by the Thomaston committee for old Fort St. George, also a flag, but the people of St. George placed the marker in posi- tion, raised the flag on a flagstaff, fired salutes, and were represented by men in pioneer costume. Mr. W. S. White, general manager of the Booth Bros. & Hurricane Island Granite Company, gave the granite cross which was set up on Allen's Island. The cross was cut at the company's quarry at Long Cove, St. George, and was transported to Allen's Island, and set up by Albert J. Rawley, W. E. Sherer, Ernest Rawley, John Matthews, Edward Fuller and Charles Watts. In all possible ways the people of St. George cooperated with the people of Thomaston in order to make the celebration successful. The morning of the celebration was not altogether auspicious. It had rained a little during the night, and a heavy fog in the earlier hours of the morning enshrouded the town as indeed it had since the after- noon of the preceding day ; but as the morning hours passed the fog gradually lifted and at length the sun broke through the thick masses, though for the most part during the day it was enough in evidence to shield from the sun's rays those participating in the various exercises. The revenue cutter Woodbury, kindly placed at the disposal of the Maine Historical Society by the government, came from Portland on the preceding day, and was at the wharf in Thomaston, gaily decked in holiday dress. As early as nine o'clock Capt. West CD W o DC and tlie otlier officers of the Woodbury were ready to welcome the members of the Society and their guests, including the speakers of the day, naval officers, prominent citizens of Thomaston and Rockland, also members of the Gen. Knox Chapter, D. A. R. At 9.45 the Woodbury left the wharf and steamed down the river, the Camden Concert Band furnishing music for the excursion. The steamers Castine, Bristol and W. G. Butman, all carrying excursionists, and all with the Woodbury bound for St. George's Harbor, followed, the river presenting an animated scene. Here and there, on either side of the river, were groups of interested spectators ; and cheers and salutes welcomed the excursionists as they proceeded on their way. Attention was called to the various points of historic interest, and to the marked features of the river corresponding with Rosier's enthusiastic narra- tive of Waymouth's discovery of the river. At the mouth of the river the U. S. monitor Arkansas was in waiting, having been detailed for service in connection with the celebration by the Navy Department, and accompanied the Woodbury and the excursion steamers to St. George's Harbor, where all the vessels arrived about 11.30 A. M. Many smaller craft were also in the harbor, and were moving here and there loaded with excursionists. Many visitors from the Woodbury and other steam- ers landed upon Allen's Island in order to participate in the services connected with the unveiling of the granite memorial cross, commemorating the cross erected by Waymouth on that island, or on one of the adjoining islands. Hon. Franklin L. Trussell, of Port Clyde, presided. In a brief address he said that the celebration on that island was in commemo- ration of a bold and intrepid navigator, Capt. George Waymouth, who, according to authentic records, landed on or near that spot in 1G05, and erected a cross as a token of English possession. Such events, he said, were milestones in the history of the country, and should be remembered by appropriate celebra- tions. Prayer was then offered by Rev. C. E. Gould, of Martinsville. Mr. George Arthur Smith, of Ten- ant's Harbor, then delivered the followinor address : There is a famous metaphysician of my acquaintance, the characteristic of whose philosophy it is that in search of its goal it first hunts in every nook and cranny of the philosophical world where its goal is not, and then finally, after saying " Not here, not here," it suddenly turns with manifest triumph to the right spot, and shouts " Eureka 1 " And its logic is all the more convincing because of the method employed. May I be permitted to apply the analogy to our friends of the Maine Historical Society ? For nearlj'^ three hundred years the controversy over Pentecost Harbor has included all the coast of Maine from Boothbay to the noble Penobscot; and now, thanks to the efforts of your honorable society, we can at last say, " I have found it." And the result now seems so perfectly obvious that we are still wondering why we have so long remained in ignorance of the birthright of our town. Hence it is with very great pleasure that we of St. George welcome you here to this little island to help us commemorate the discovery of our ancestry, and to rejoice with us at our entrance into our inheritance. On a summer's day, three centuries ago, a hardy British cap- tain and his little band of twenty-eight, after a difficult and periloiis voyage across the then practically unknown seas, erected a cross on one of these islands in commemoration of the fact that HON. FRANKLIN L TRUSSELL this region which now bears his name and that of England's patron saint, had been discovered and claimed by a citizen of a Christian nation — Great Britain, and by him dedicated to the service of a Christian sovereign. The voyages at this period were made not with the motives that prompted those brave hearts that later set foot on Plymouth Rock, the desire of freedom to worship God after their own fash- ion ; rather were they made in a spirit of adventure, partly from a desire to find a route to Africa or the Orient, and partly to win new dominions for England. Such voyages, as a rule, lacked the permanent significance of the later ones, but this expedition of Captain Waymouth in 1605 was of immense historical importance ; for as a result of his dis- coveries, two years later, in 1607, the " little Popham Colony of one hundred and twenty souls debarked on the peninsula of Sag- adahoc, and with ceremonies of prayer and sermon dedicated the spot to civilization, and themselves to God's service," and inaugurated their government. Although this colony was broken up during the summer of 1608, and all its members who survived the hardships of the winter returned to England, a beginning of colonization efforts had been made. Not many years followed before other settlers were upon the coast. The growth of the settlements was slow, but in the lapse of time those little communities increased in number and have now become an integral part of the mighty nation of 80,000,000 1 Their early growth, however, was not unattended by dangers and perils, and had it not been for the fostering care of the country which first gave our nation its birth, the destruction that more than once impended would have become an actuality. For her later mistakes, and for misunder- standing the real spirit and interests of her greatest colony. Great Britain amply atoned, and yet, although we who are so proud of our country's progress, prosperity and world position to-day, naturally hesitate to acknowledge dependence upon any other nation, we cannot forget the debt the New England owes to the old. Her high ideals, we as children of the same Anglo-Saxon parentage, have inlierited ; her language and her literature and her body of common law are as well our own. Profiting by her example more than by that of any other nation, we have grown by adopting the good in her life, by patterning after her suc- cesses, and by avoiding as best we could her mistakes. And yet we have nevertheless achieved our growth in our own way, and have given to the world an example and a pattern of a land in which the people as rulers have reigned as wisely and justly as the sovereigns " who can do no wrong." A century and a quarter ago, when under the guidance of him whom this country rightly calls its father, these colonies became the United States of America, and selected their own form of government, the watchword of our international policy was, as you all know, " Friendship toward all, entangling alliances with none." It was felt, and justly so, that our safety would be best conserved, our internal welfare and progress best aided by attending strictly and carefully to our own affairs. And so, for over a century we have kept as completely as possible out of foreign complications. By our steady, consistent policy, we have acquired a reputation as a nation for sincerity, firmness and fair- ness in all our international dealings, such as is surpassed by that of no other power large or small, and of this reputation we may justly be proud. But man proposes. The disposal of human events is in its ultimate analysis in higher hands than ours. Do not mistake me as unreservedly sanctioning the logic of those who use the con- venient plea of manifest destiny as a gild wherewith to gloss over other and baser reasons for certain unknown coui'ses of action. The philosophy of determinism and foreordination has yet to demonstrate its right to existence as the guiding principle of the life either of the individual or of the nation. What I do mean is that we have attained our present influence for peace in the family of nations because we have adopted as the guiding principle of our policy the belief that there is an absolute final right or wrong for a nation as well as for an individual, — because our statesmen have in the main believed with our private citizen that truth will not forever remain on the scaffold, nor wrong forever triumph. Let me repeat, our policy as a nation may have been sometimes misguided, — omniscience has not yet become one of hiimanity's attributes, — but it has for the greater part been a sincere one. Who can deny that it was our reputation as one of the greatest, if not indeed the greatest, peace powers on earth MR. ARTHUR GEORGE SMITH that brought success to the efforts of our executive in the recent negotiations for a peace conference. We have become a world power by keeping out of world poli- tics. Secure in ovir position as the greatest nation in the Western Plemisphere, we have devoted our attention to our own growth and prosperity. Realizing that a nation disunited and discordant at home must be powerless abroad, we have sought internal unity and harmony. The search was by no means a simple or easy one, and was not accomplished without the greatest civil contest the world has ever known. Bitter as the struggle was, can we who look back upon it to-day say that it was not necessary to settle the crisis which compromises, however skilfully planned, had only served to postpone, and hence accentuate? Those memorable issues, fortunately, are past. We have long ago for- given our brethren of the South for their mistake, and we know they have forgiven us for our folly in imposing upon them decon- struction under the mistaken idea that we were giving them reconstruction. Mutual forgiveness, and our realization of the need of it, has made us more careful of each other's interests than we ever were before. Never again shall our country be rent by sectional differences, for never again will we allow it to be said that we of the North and of the South do not understand each other. The different sections are rapidly being drawn together into comm.on bonds of fellowship and vmity by that magic link, commimity of interests. The South is no longer merely an agri- cultural community. In the land where only a few years ago were mainly woods and fields, are now mines and mills, foundries and factories, the latter rivalling, nay, sometimes sm-passing, those of (Our own New England, the home of the loom and spindle. As a consequence, the flood of immigration is no longer content with deluging our Northern shores alone, but the South is also claiming her share, and thus has begun to contribute her portion of the leaven needed to transform the fiery descendants of Stan- islaus or of the Caesars into sturdy, intelligent American citizens. And so we can say that out of the turmoil of this last century of the three which have elapsed since this little harbor of Pente- cost offered her friendly shelter to the first British ship, we can say that into our national life have come wealth, power and unity, and above all the honor that appertains only to a nation whose diplomacy the other powers have learned both to respect and to trust. Now just a word of the future. This year marks not only the anniversary we are here primarily to celebrate, but connotes also what may be a crisis in our national life. A iew years ago our martyred President aroused us to a realization of the fact that our policy of ideal exclusiveness must to some extent be aban- doned. This policy of splendid isolation has in the years that are past been our salvation. But within the last few years, con- ditions have, to some extent at least, materially altered. In the words of a recent editorial, " We are closer in touch with the edge of European interests than ever before as the result of our national expansion. We have possessions in far distant seas where ten years ago no American thought he Mould ever set the Stars and Stripes floating over the territory of the United States. We are not far from Hong Kong nor the German and P^rench possessions in the far East." And now comes the message from the old England to the New ; given only a few days ago by England's premier. To our newly appointed ambassador he said : " Immemorial traditions have indicated the desire of the United States to keep themselves as little entangled as may be with the complex political relations of the older world on this side of the Atlantic. I doubt whether in its absolute and extreme purity that doctrine is likely to be permanently main- tained. So great a nation as the United States, owing so much and giving so much to the civilization of old Europe, sharing its learning and advancing its science, can hardly expect to be able to share all these things and yet take no part whatever in the political life which is an inseparable element of them. It is almost as inconceivable that the United States should remain in that ideal isolation, as that some vast planet suddenly introduced into the system should not have its perturbing influence on other planets." Briefly, this message means that the time has come for this nation to abandon her policy of isolation, and to take her share in the politics of the world, and thus accept our rightful respon- sibilities in the family of nations. The eternal significance of such a call from such a source is evident. Two paths are now presented to us Avhere once was only one. It is not for me to s' o discuss their relative merits. I have only this to say : whichever one we choose, our ultimate safety as a nation consists in our faithful adherence to those old ideals of national life and national conduct which have heretofore been our guidance. It may be that we shall see fit still to continue along the path our fathers have blazed out for us ; or it may be that heeding the call that comes from England's statesman, we shall feel it our duty to go forth with the nation that is above all others nearest to us in heritage and sympathies, to take a more active and possibly militant part in world affairs. In either case, I repeat, let it be our prayer and our endeavor that our leaders, following the right as God gives them to see the right, will keep our country's policy true to those ideals of conduct which have made her what she is to-day, the ideals for which stands this stone we here unveiled to-day, for which the cross has ever stood, not for theology and dogma alone, — our nation was founded in part as a protest against that, — but the rational ideals of justice, honor and tnith, friendship and sincerity. Such weapons as these, far more surely than armies and navies, will make this nation what Sir William Mather, a prominent English leader, has already termed it, the moral leader of the world, able in the future, even more than we have been in the past, to urge what we present on grounds of moral rather than physical force. Before the opening of these exercises, a dozen men, representing Capt. George Waymouth and some of his crew, together with three Indians, had landed on Allen's Island and were grouped around the unveiled cross. Capt. Waymouth was represented by Dr. W. J. Jameson of Thomaston. *' Waymouth's crew" was made up as follows : First officer, C. M. Walker ; second officer, Levi Seavey ; powder boy, Harold Jameson ; sailors, C. J. Freeman, Dr. J. S. Norton, R. L. Thompson, C. H. Gushing, W. F. Tibbetts and Lewis Seavey. The " Indians " were I. G. Young, Henry Beverage and Ralph Harrington. At the close of Mr. Smith's address, Capt. Waymouth removed the stars and stripes that concealed the granite cross, revealing the simple inscription, " Waymouth ; 1605- 1905." A pre-arranged signal on a near-by flagstaff announced the unveiling, and the Arkansas opening her guns, at once thundered forth a national salute. At the close of the salute, Hon. J. E. Moore lowered the flag on the flagstaff, and a large burgee, bearing the inscription, *' Pentecost Harbor," took its place. Both the flag and burgee were presented by Mrs. William R. Grace, of New York, a native of St. George. At the conclusion of the unveiling exercises on Allen's Island, the visitors from the Woodbury returned to the cutter, where an elegant lunch was served by the ladies of the Gen. Knox Chapter, D. A. R. The committee in charge of the lunch was made up as follows : Mrs. C. A. Creighton, Mrs. Richard Dunn and Mrs. H. R. Linnell. At the close of the lunch, the Woodbury raised her anchor, and with the Arkansas, and a large fleet of smaller craft, sailed up to the mouth of the St. George's River and then entered the river itself. The tide was now nearly at full height, and the scene was one of very great interest as well as of rare love- liness on either side of the river, while in front, up in the main, were the mountains mentioned by Rosier as seen by Waymouth as he passed up the river three hundred years before. In the company there was no more interested spectator than Capt. George Prince, now in his eighty-eighth year, who nearly half a 10 en < i: « 5 I century ago was tlie first to call attention to the claims of tlie St. George's River as the river of Waymonth's discovery. This delightful return to Thomaston was marked by frequent salutes fired by interested parties at different points. The Arkansas ascended the river as far as Fort St. George and then anchored. At Thomaston, as the guests were leaving the Woodbury, a salute was fired by the cutter in honor of Governor Cobb. A procession was then formed consisting of Waymouth's crew, the Indians, and about one hundred and twenty-five school children, with the Camden Concert Band at the head. At the mall about two thousand people assembled to witness the exercises connected with the unveiling of the memorial erected by the town. Hon. Joseph E. Moore presided. The invocation was by Rev. W. A. Newcombe, D.D., of Thomaston. Mr. Moore then delivered the following address of welcome : We are gratified that we are enabled to join with you, the members of the Maine Historical Society, in celebrating on your annual field day an event as important as that which gives name to this celebration. We greet you and the guests from other societies with pleasure, and welcome your coming. The object of a historical society is to establish truth and make perpetual a record of it ; not truth in the abstract, as scien- tific or religious, but facts of history which show the progress of individuals and nations, their rise and fall. You are impartial. Because you find some things that you wish were different, you do not conceal them ; but each is chronicled according to the truth. Preconceived notions of any act or event bear no part in the search. Your object is to enlighten mankind, and mark the footsteps of those who have gone before. 11 In this commercial age, this age of greed, even in these days of strenuous action, how pleasant to realize that there are men with other purposes, who can throw those all aside, and devote a time at least to the study and search that enlarge the infor- mation of the world, without a show of gain, but rather a finan- cial loss ; — as lovers of the useful, and the perpetuation of the events that shoAv the world's progress, the life that those behind us lived, and the causes that result in the present conditions. Your labor is unselfish. You chronicle the achievements of oth- ers and not those of yourselves. Your reward lies not in your own glorification, but in bringing to light and perpetuating the marked deeds of others, then- successes, their defeats, and the results. In the material world the great whole is made up of combined particles. So in history. While it is not the single event that we study, alone, however important, but the series, when we would learn the world's history ; still, each event must be noted, and accurately, to be sure that the whole is right. Therefore the value of determining and preserving local history is not to be belittled. Your society may be limited in the place of your active research to IMaine, but the result goes far beyond her borders. The event we celebrate to-day bears no small part in Ameri- can history. It has been the subject of much controversy. Its imjjortance has been recognized and, like everything great and valuable, claimants for the honor of its location have been mapy. When Waymouth planted the English cross at the mouth of this river, and up in the main where it "trended westward," he announced that this was Virginia, and none were so bold as to question it. This is but one event, but with others it becomes an important one. You have searched history and fixed this one, and thus made accurate what has been uncertain. You prove yom- impartiality in this, — that when shown the facts by a resident of Thomaston, you investigate, and, though counter to earlier history, you recognize the truth and emblazon it. Three hundred years ago on a summer's day, perhaps like this, that doughty English captain, George Waymouth, came in his small vessel to these shores, and later sailed up this river to plant the cross of St. George and claim for England the right to 12 HON. JOSEPH E. MOORE this goodly land. He was not welcomed by bands of music and gladsome English song, but vast forests were spread before him, and all nature gave him welcome ; the strong oak and whisper- ing pine welcomed him to give improvement and advancement ; the birds that nested in the trees welcomed him with joyous songs ; and the infant of that power which filled his sails and brought him to these shores, — the morning and evening zephyrs, blowing through the grasses and over the rippling waters, — welcomed him. Your welcome is as hearty. Streets and houses and the voice you know are in place of the great forests. Our broad avenues and shaded streets welcome you ; our giant elms will give you welcome shade ; our hearts and homes give you thrice welcome. We give into your hands the keys that open every gate and every door, in assurance of the fullness of our hospitality and its joyful bestowal. Do not hesitate to test its strength, or try to find its bounds, for we mean that both shall be unlimited. Hon. James P. Baxter, President of the Maine His- torical Society, responded for the Society in a brief, but hearty acknowledgement of the greeting so gen- erously extended. Hon. William T. Cobb, Governor of Maine, who had accompanied the excursionists to St. George's Harbor on the Woodbury, followed with an eloquent address : We are here to-day not to make history, but to refer to its local beginnings, and to commemorate by appropriate observ- ances an event of historical importance to the State, and of peculiar interest to this beautiful town. It has been established, substantially beyond controversy, that on a certain morning in the early summer of 1605, George Way- mouth, an Englishman and commanding an English ship, while on a voyage of discovery to the New World, sailed up this river and landing at the harbor's head was the first known white man to set foot upon these shores. 13 the beginning, of mII '" °™^ '"' ^" *™« -'«> On that June day when Wavmouth loft I,; i, coast, and proceeded cautimMlTr h ""chorage on the lately unknown to anyl n 1^ I? '^^"T' f-' '^"^^^ abso- a great and powerful nation. She wlsll f t T- "'""'^ ^vageahorigTi ^ ^z::;;::^^^ 'rr; fi% year, we ha™ 'e.^derirtesrof^'' ^°, ■ "'" "^^ '-* material development for „• , achievements for contemplating thTctn^; ^::!:rv:^:z.^h '' own we may we., exclaim -. What hath ZtLZ °" w^oiTv^arhaTXt™!;: -— r "^^ country hastll^ed'^Ijrefrtrd'r''""^'"^ "' ' ever far reaching in historical L! ! ^ "^ '™°*''' ""O"- for the student o^f histoTX '^2,7°',;''"^ """"^^^ '"*--« to know more of our ILT ", T "" a™kened impulse conception "^ z:^i:z^z^^t: . tr ;ng^»pression in acts of commemoration like^^ rVe^ftt adiL?„';oftarlingir„V"t-'°''™^" ''"'''' '^ '^« of local pride around bvth f ^ "'^ *''''* *» «»timents find a readv and In ^ 'i<^d,cat,on of tablets like this one, thecitil fo our'ltatrV^r" '^T." '""^ '"' """^-' toric associations and replet^wi h tb °°"T " """ '^ ■"'»- strength and counsel Tstl'te d alioT" tL "v '"'"' «''™ of them, are students and lover of he past Ld TT' """^ lie spirit she has caused to be perpZtedl, "r"'" bronze the memory of Wavmouth'. v . , '" '"''""S J' or waymouth 8 voyage and landing on this U \- m coast. By this appreciative acknowledgment of the claims of history, Thomaston has furnished an example that all other towns in Maine may well emulate, and has earned the gratitude of the State. At the close of Governor Cobb's address, the memorial tablet was unveiled by Miss Ruth Flint Linnell, daughter of Mr. R. H. Linnell of Thomaston, who had an important part in the task of transferring to the mall the giant boulder to which the tablet was affixed. The tablet bears the following inscription : To Commemorate the Voyage of Captain George Waymouth TO THE Coast of Maine IN 1605 His Discovery and Exploration of the St, George's River Anb Planting a Cross on the Northerly Shore of this Harbor Where the River "Trended Westward" The Earliest Known Claim of Right of Possession by Englishmen On New England Soil This Tablet is Erected by the Town of Thomaston 1905 Mr. J, B. Keating, British Vice Consul at Portland, was then introduced and delivered the following address : To-day in a most charming manner you have commemorated the landing on these shores of British seamen under the com- mand of Captain Waymouth. To these pioneers of Christianity and their kinsmen who come after them the world owes a great deal ; for, after all, who can gainsay the fact that it was British- ers, led by a Britisher, who so effectively cleaned house for you 15 and who adopted the constitution which has won the admiration of the whole world. Great Britain certainly owes to her former subjects a great debt of gratitude for having taught her how to govern her colo- nies and thereby to successfully hold together an empire having a population equal to one-fourth of the inhabitants of the globe, dwelling within an area of nearly twelve million square miles, and of whom none are more loyal than her sturdy sons and daughters, your immediate neighbors in Canada — sepai'ated from you only by an imaginary line and huge tariff wall. As Britishers we love our flag, to us the emblem of Christian- ity, civilization and freedom in the highest degree ; and Americans have a keen regard for the British flag because it was once theirs and stands firmly for unity with them. We Britishers honor and revere the Stars and Stripes. We take a keen delight in the progress made under your beautiful banner and we universally regard it as emblematical of liberty, progressiveness in arts and sciences, as Avell as being the flag of our brothers. No man can reasonably expect that in this vast country the traditions of the past can entirely govern the future of the United States, or yet keep the country purely Anglo-Saxon, but each celebration such as we have witnessed this day will ever keep verdant the knowledge that it was your and my countrymen who laid the foundation stone for the upbuilding of this vast nation and may we not hope that the Stars and Stripes of Amer- ica and the Union Jack of old England shall ever float side by side and together advance in the civilization of the world, thereby securing everlasting peace. During my stay in Maine, now rounding ten years, it has been my constant aim to take advantage of every opportunity arising to draw your and my countrymen into closer acquaintance and fi'iendship. The jubilee of our late Queen served as an excuse to bring into your waters a British man-of-war, after an absence therefrom of over twenty-five years. The next year, while your sons were encamj^ed in the South and your country at war, one of Canada's representative regiments came into your State under arms to celebrate the fiftieth anniversary of the opening of commerce to you with Canada by the Grand Trunk Railway, and incidentally to help you celebrate the Fourth of July and the 16 HON. JOHN B. KEATING Briiish Vice Consul at Portland victory of the American fleet at Santiago. Since then a British fleet has twice been inyour waters and this year nearly seven hundred soldiers were guests of your militia in Portland. These events and the visit of the Portland Naval Reserves to Canada last year, with the harmonious blending of the redcoats and the bluejackets, with the sight of the flags of the two greatest nations in the world floating so frequently side by side, has done much to draw more closely together our two countries. And now may I add that there is still more to be accomplished to complete the family reunion ? I mean, of course, closer trade relationship. This question, I know, is receiving the constant attention of the statesmen of both countries. Maine has in the past been a great factor in legislation for the good of the whole. Can we not therefore hope that your representatives, who so efiiciently fill the place of them that have gone before them, may yet find a way to bring the people of New England into a closer trade relationship with my countrymen to the north of you. Mr. Moore then introduced Maj.-Gen. Josliua L. Chamberlain, who spoke as follows : We have come here to celebrate, not a victory, nor a veritable beginning, but a passing incident, a visit; purposed, however, and well ordered, and taking significance from being closely linked with the movements which resulted in the English domi- nation of these North Atlantic shores. Linked, — implying a connection, but not a cause ; for no man can assign the cause of anything whatever that has happened in human history. We may know of conditions precedent, and sine qua non, — without which a thing could not have come to pass ; but causes lie deep, germinated in the spiritual essence of things, both physical and psychical. What we note here is the fact of Waymouth's visit, in a ship auspiciously named the Archangel, and kept in character by due observance of religious exercises on board, with high ends in view which prompted the kidnapping of some best specimens of the inhabitants for exhibition at home in verification of his reports, or proof of the capabilities of this virgin soil; claim- ing warrant, perhaps with religious consistency, by the Old 17 Testament tactics of the visit of the spies to the promised land beyond Jordan with instructions to bring back the best of what- ever they could lay their hands on. This last is an important item ; it supplies the link which connects this visit with immense results. For these good specimen products of the new country being consigned to some of the keen forecasters in England, woke a vital interest in the discoveries she had practically ignored for a century. We have the testimony of Sir Ferdinando Gorges, one of the chief promoters of Waymouth's voyage, to whom the study and instruction of these unwilling guests were committed, that " this accident," he called it, " was the acknowledged means under God, of putting on foot and giving life to all our plantations." And these plantations were the forerunners, if not the imme- diate agencies, of a force whereby the English overcame the French, claiming by as good a title and holding by a prior and better occupancy. Fortxinate Nahanada, Amoret, Skidwaroes, — simple savages, helpless captives, but made vehicles of a divine communication fraught with the destinies of nations ! Fortunate Waymouth, — the craft of man made part of the work of God I These it was then, — Waymouth's unwitting witnesses, — who woke the first whisper of that deep decree whereby New France should become New England, and passing the barriers of disso- ciating mountains, and owning only the mighty waters for boundaries, this land of ours should be held of neither crown, but by a nation to be born, — the people of these United States. Thoughts come to us here : what was the force which effected this dispossession ; what was its justification ; what is, and is to be, the outcome. The whole case will be set before us to-day with skilful elaboration by chosen orators. For me, but few words. And first, this was a matter of race. But what is race ? It is something of blood. By that we mean certain specific tenden- cies, vital, spiritual, persistent. And in whatever intermingling, whether through innate affinities or outward inducements, a cer- tain positive tendency will dominate, and will mark the resultant character. Difference of race is an obvious fact, however accounted for. The Roman is different from the Greek ; the Turk from the 18 Arab ; the Hungarian from the German ; the Irish from the English ; the Japanese from the Russian. It is obvious also that physical surroundings do not determine these differences, for we find the physical conditions not so widely varied in these cases, — and the local situation, almost the same. Race differences are marked in the several provinces of one so-called nation, — as in France and Spain. There is a current saying that man is the creature of his envi- ronment. That may be true of some ; but a man so made is a poor kind of a man. No doubt all are affected more or less by environment ; but the final character is determined by innate forces and susceptibilities. When Ave speak of environment, bear in mind that there are two kinds of it, — one, the obvious physical surroundings ; the other, the atmosphere and contact of invisible spiritual influences. The inborn nature of man makes the selection, and determines the outcome. If this nature is dull, or indolent, or simply receptive, outward influences may prevail. But men and races that are foremost make themselves so by inborn force. Physical geography in simple times had large effect on human character. Work and thoughts and habits of life must be so directed. But soon some aspiring mind begins to master out- ward conditions. The Dutch first made land where there was sea ; now they are making sea where there is land. Physical features may some time determine the boundaries of nations. But sooner or later some force of men will change these landmarks. All history shows this. The structure and climate of a continent is in some sort a prophecy of its destiny. But this is made true only in the long run, when commingling and combinations of men have brought out the best traits in each type of manhood, and revealed the treasures of nature to be turned to human good. The Nile once made Egypt ; now England makes the Nile. Aforetime men stood in awe of it; human life was its servant. Now the great barrage at the Assouan cataract, con- trolling the mighty waters, creates new seasons for human toil and puts the mastery in the hands of man. So English energy makes new environment, which in turn will serve to transform Egyptian character, and make a new Egypt. But it is man that has done it, — meaning by that blood and brain, observing the 19 work of God, reading in opportunity His purpose, and following His thought. Now appears that other kind of environment, — the influences which we must call spiritual, having strangely no word in our language as yet exactly answering the conception and fact of an energy not embodied, but inspiring and governing human action. What we call the influence of mind upon mind is a marvellous power, — whether direct, in personal intercourse, or in wider cir- cuits through social enlargement, or as representative in works of the spirit, as in eloquence, poetry, music, painting, sculpture, expressive fabrics of architecture, and mighty works of engineer- ing. In such things thought lives, the vanished speaks. We are told that there are some mysterious laws in chemistry, whereby the susceptibility of certain elements ready to combine is so affected by the mere presence of some other element not itself commingling, as almost to control their behavior. That law of influence is a mighty one in all the worlds to which we belong. We believe people are deeply influenced by their religion ; their view of spiritual belongings. But to a great degree people influence any given religion by their personal temperaments. Christianity exhibits various phases in the Nestorian, the Coptic, the Greek and the Roman churches. And our modern Protest- antism is sharply differentiated by Lutheran, Calvinist, Anglican, Puritan, Presbyterian and Methodist. In a certain way, acting and reacting on each other, they make a whole. There is a perpetuating influence in the prevailing public sen- timent and social order of a community. We make much account of the assimilating power of our political and social insti- tutions upon the people immigrating into our country. This may be a saving grace for us in the present inundations of for- eign race and blood, the overflowings of all peoples. But we shall find great difference in the capacity and capability of dif- ferent people as to this transformation. Nothing in this world seems fixed, one and the same for all. Human freedom makes certain things very uncertain. A gift depends on how we take it; environment and opportunity are what we make them. In this mass and mesh of things around us, some innate force allied, at least, to the sj^iritual, determines 20 destinies. It is so that race characteristics are wrought out, peo- ple by people, age after age. But peculiar and prominent as these are, a pure race we scarcely find. Earliest history shows each race already of mixed blood, though differing decidedly each from each. This comes from certain strains of preponderant force, or readiness of com- bining power. Some we see almost repellant of combination. Look at the American Indian; stubborn in his characteristics. You can kill him, but you can't kill these out of him. Indeed it is these very characteristics that are killing him out. As a rule the mixed races are the ablest, physically and mentally. But it is not true that all mixed races are superior. It depends on what there was to mix. There is some intricate law about it. Mixture of elements within certain generic lines, but not too near specifically, produces increase of strength ; taken from too near or too far, — deterioration and sterility. But true mixture is a harmony, working out all the variations of its persistent theme. Here to-day we contemplate the beginning of the struggle of France and England for the domination of this continent. Which should win? He to whom it was given, — not by cir- cumstance but by capability ; not by force of quantity, but of quality. Two races in their main root almost identical ; of the Viking blood, fierce in fight, deeply and richly mixed, the per- sistent vital energy ever readjusting its composite elements, giv- ing to each a polarity of its own. The old Northmen conquered Normandy, planting their name in France, but taking the lan- guage and law of previous conquerors, the Roman, because these served their mastery ; and these hold to this day. Their descend- ents, the Normans, conquered England, but took on the language of the conquered, — the deep-rooted mother tongue, — and also their laws, wrought out on the north shores of the Rhine and Scandinavian seas. These also to abide, — language and law ; — and are mainly ours, here and now. Two peoples not so far apart in the dominating element of their origin, following the lines of different stimulus and impulse, developing characters peculiar and clearly marked. One fertile of ideas and quick of hand ; the other slow of thought but stout of heart ; one daring in overture, spirited in action ; the other slowly resolving, but 21 resolute unto the end. So are they unto this day. One ever prompt, adroit, chivalrous, projecting beginnings ; the other calmy observant, gathering force, biding time, effecting consum- mations. One leading the civilization of Europe, the other belt- ing the globe ! So the vision of to-day : the French overture here brilliant as the sky ; the English consummation solid as the earth. And we who behold, proclaim it as a triumph of our race ; but do not forget that there have passed into it other heroic and not lost beginnings. Now for the right of it. By what right did England win? By right of some " higher law " declaring itself in mysterious ways as of better worth than right of possession. By authority of some overmastering force in human history, making the best of each the benefit of all, turning failure of one to profit of another, even overruling evil for final good. Justifications are on a great scale and far away, where all find their belongings. England entered where France had opened ; took what she had made ready. So have I seen the osprey and the eagle ; one with flashing wing dashing between sky and sea to snatch her prey ; the other watching from some calm rock, then rushing to grasp the booty borne by the taker in mid air. This is natural law. This right through greater need or better use is admitted in the practice, and therefore is the law, of progress. True, this may also be the plea of the highwayman ; but the natural law of society seems not the same as the moral law for the individual. Some races are better able to bring out the goods and uses of nature than others, and thus advance their own excellence. Soon or late, they take the precedence. And the acquiescence of others makes good the title. Is it not so ? By what other right are we from the Old World holding this New World once belonging to a simpler race '? And by what other right are the nations of Christendom doing many things disliked but approved by all ? Is not the survival of the fittest the right of the strong- est? And is not this the law of nature by which the world goes on, whether we will or no ? And is not this of that great branch of the human law known as the customary ? Now, what is the outcome ? Evidently it is not complete as yet. A phase of it is passing. We now on these long-coveted shores, descendants or successors of great actors here, have no 22 reason to regret accidents or issues of early history, nor to be ashamed of the character since wrought out, or of the work done for the world. In some of us is blood mingled of both great races battling here, but we are not sorry to be named of the race that if not first but latest in beginnings, is on the foremost front of the world's advance. Three centuries have passed. Some climax has been reached. For here we see now the tide of ancient blood on the ebb. Our new generations are sending forth their boldest to meet the demand for energy on other shores, and to make history in turn. Peoples are taking their place whom we may deem not the equals of the outgoers. But who shall presume to judge the reasons of God's ways, or to know the rule of mixture in His chemistry? Some incomers are closely allied to us in blood, and readily enter into our aspirations and ideas. Others, though of blood wider and farther mixed, come gladly to us, and into our citizenship. At least they are taking up what goods of nature the outgoers have left not fairly tested. Is not this a certain progress ? A passing glance shows present movement, but not its mean- ing, nor the full tendency of things. In the great tides, currents are running many ways. The inward and outward set goes ever on by periods elsewhere determined. But there is a trend we cannot see ; an ever increasing worth, to which our best work belongs. What we may be sure of is our duty to hold fast the faith and practice out of which the sterling character of our fathers was evolved; to reverence those things which have enabled us to take part in the betterment of human conditions, the clearer recognition of the worth of manhood, — and if perchance it be held as some higher thing, — of womanhood. It is ours to cherish the principles and institutions which have secured for us light and liberty, and so hold them that all incomers shall enjoy these blessings and also be able to appreciate them and perpetuate them. Prophecies are written both in the face of nature, and in the heart of man. Good has been wrought here, but most of good is yet to come, — to come to be. And in such times, when deeper knowledge of man and nature shall disclose deeper things of 23 good, then may emerge a new composite life in which shall hold part our history and our hope. Perhaps even the physical features now forming boundaries of nationalities and of enter- prise may take on truer meaning, and the shores of this great gulf named now of Maine, on whose outer edge the Gulf Stream and Arctic currents meet, are potent yet of God's deep purpose ; and the peoples behind, seeing the vast reach of opportimity and the unity of their interests, will make of this stored and storied sea-front a vantage ground not only for exchange of their prod- ucts but for the interchange of all best gifts and winnings for the world. The closing address was by Hon. Charles E. Little- field of Rockland. Mr. President^ Gentlemen of the Maine Historical Society., JLadies and Gentlemen: Inasmuch as the exercises upon this occasion are to close with what I may add, I can safely say that up to the present moment the Society is to be congratulated upon the successful manner in which the entire program has been carried out. Everything from the illustrated landing of Waymouth and his men to the various addresses which have been delivered has been fit and appropriate. I congratulate the Daughters of the American Revolution for the very happy man- ner in which their portion of the program involving the serving of the appetizing luncheon on the cutter has been rendered. They are to be especially complimented upon the attractive and beautiful committee which had the honor to represent them. It may safely be suggested that if that vigorous and redoubtable old pioneer, Capt. George Waymouth, had been met iTi:»on his landing upon these shores by such a committee, the attraction would have been so great that he could never have been induced to return to England. I congratulate the committee having this matter in charge upon the part of the citizens of Thomaston, and especially the distinguished chairman of the committee, Hon. J. E. Moore. The uninterrupted and gratifying success which he has witnessed to-day as a result of several weeks trying effort leaves him I take it in a vastly more gratifying frame of mind than he experienced yesterday. 24 HON. CHARLES E. LITTLEFIELD by permission of J. E. PURDY I have learned that during the day, when he was embarrassed by some of the difficulties, disagreements, misunderstandings and uncomfortable features necessarily involved in the working out of such exercises, he was not imbued with the cheerful and opti- mistic expectations which, judging from the serene expression of his countenance to-day, he is now seeing realized. On the con- trary, he is said to have remarked, with an intensity of expression perhaps incident to the occasion by way of intimating his regret that he ever assumed the responsibility of taking charge of the program, that he " wished to God Waymouth had sailed up the Kennebec." No doubt the marked transition between yesterday and to-day renders his enjoyment all the more gratifying. Finally, by way of congratulation, I will suggest that if the rain* which is threatening to fall every moment is suspended until the exercises are fully concluded, we may all congratulate ourselves upon the favorable auspices under which we are gathered. It is not necessary for me to indulge in a lengthy speech on this occasion. A word should be said by way of emphasizing the especial significance of one of the prominent features of the exercises. A cross of eternal granite has been erected at Pente- cost Harbor as near as may be at the place where Captain Way- mouth, three hundred years ago, first planted his rude cross as the symbol of the occupation of this portion of the continent on behalf of his majesty, the king of England. The cross is a most significant symbol. It is the distinguishing feature of our Christian civilization. It declares the fact that our civilization recognizes and depends upon a personal God, who governs in the affairs of men and without whose aid in building they labor in vain who attempt to build. It does not represent any sect, or creed, or theology, but it stands in its breadth and catholicity as the great emblem of the Christian religion, of the civilization that is founded upon its precepts and has been in the process of steady, resistless development through infinite toil, struggle and endeavor ever since the beginning of the Christian era. This divine and sacred emblem, and that for which it stands, is the great differentiation between our civilization and all civilizations that preceded it and every other civilization that coexists with it. How appropriate is it then that this great essential and lit proved to be only a heavy mist. 25 fundamental characteristic should be especially emphasized and recognized upon this memorial occasion. Great Britain, in the course of her long and illustrious history, has accomplished many and great results in the achievement of liberty and the elevation and civilization of the race ; but there is no single act ever performed by that mighty nation which involved consequences so vast and stupendous as the discovery and the dedication of this great continent to the English speak- ing people, the blessings of English liberty and a Christian civi- ization. So great has been our success in the development along parallel lines with our mother country that we are sometimes too likely to forget the length and the breadth of our indebted- ness to her. According to the genius of her institutions and her form of government powers, and privileges, and rights of the people may in a sense be said to emanate from the government, the government being represented by the king. On the other hand, according to the genius of our institutions, all powers, rights and privileges, have their source in and derive their power from the people, and the government that we have is the creature of the people. While our systems of government and our political institutions differ somewhat radically in form, in substance they are in a large degree the same. The petition of right, Magna Charta, and the habeas corpus act, for which the English people fought, bled and died, and to establish which, lives were lost and treasure expended with little regard to their number or value, are included in their essence, in many respects literally word for word, in the Constitution of the United States, and the bill of rights of every one of our forty -five States. ^ We speak the same language, we read the same literature, our people are secured by the same law and we have the same Chris- tian religion. We think and speak and write in the same lan- guage in which Shakespeare thought and spoke and wrote. The grandest and most sublime expressions of the human emotions, aspirations and desires that can be found in any language are found in prodigal profusion in King James' version of the English Bible. The essential and fundamental principles of the common law, the security of the person and the inviolability of his property were well-settled and well-recognized principles 26 long before Waymouth made his adventurous voyage. They are as essential and as potent in England as in America to the conservation of every principle that makes a living truth of the declaration that "all men are created equal ; that they are endowed by their Creator with certain inalienable rights; that among these are life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness." The right of every man to worship God under his OAvn vine and fig-trees according to the dictation of his own conscience, with no one to molest him or make him afraid, which was the inspiring cause that led the Pilgrims to brave the dangers of the ocean, and the unknown hazards of the primeval wilderness inhabited by the aboriginal savage, is equally the result in England and in Amer- ica of the logical and inevitable development of the principles which underlie and are fundamental to the institutions and civ- ilization of each of these great countries. It is eminently fitting and proper that Consul Keating should be present upon this occasion as the representative of his Brit- tanic majesty, and I hazard nothing in saying that I express the universal sentiment of this magnificent audience when I say that we have listened with the greatest pleasure to his cordial and eloquent remarks. He has suggested that there might in the future be a closer union between the two great countries result- ing from an alliance that might be entered into. The same idea was very effectively and ably presented by Mr. Smith who deliv- ered the eloquent address at Allen's Island at the uncovering of the memorial cross. It has been the immemorial practice of the republic to avoid entangling alliances of all kinds with foreign countries. This has been our attitude from the beginning. It was inculcated by Washington and has been reiterated from time to time by nearly all of his successors. It has become the warp and woof of our foreign policies. It would hardly be appropriate to discuss on this occasion its wisdom or unwisdom, and whether or not it might with advantage be now departed from. Whether by treaty engrossed upon scroll of parchment, authenticated by great seals and the signatures of great plenipotentiaries, these two great English speaking people may or may not formally bind themselves together for offensive or defensive purposes is not for us here to-day material. It may perhaps be, whether it is or 27 not I do not assert, but it may perhaps be, that these great inter- national questions involving interests so vast and far reaching will after all be governed and controlled in the great movement of international development and progress by what General Chamberlain has beautifully referred to as the higher law : " There's a divinity that shapes our ends, rough hew them how we will." May it not well be in the summation of the results of the ages, that the English speaking people, separate and inde- pendent, yet at the same time heterogeneous and component parts of one great civilization have in the end a common destiny, the unity of a common and eternal purpose. We believe that our form of government, and our conception of what is essential to civilization, is the highest form and con- ception yet discovered and made known to the sons of men. If we are correct in this belief, why is it not then true that the highest results throughout Christendom will not be attained until this civilization shall be all prevailing? Until that time shall come we cannot expect to see fully exemplified that saying of the Scriptures " that God hath made of one blood all nations of men for to dwell on all the face of the earth." It may well be then whether we will or no or whether we agree or no that the devel- opment of these two great branches of one great puissant people will necessarily be upon parallel lines in perfect sympathy and harmony with each other ; that we shall work together because we are striving for the same end. So far as such expectations may become a realized fact just so much nearer will we approach the day when the principles of arbitration and universal peace, so effectively referred to by Consul Keating, shall become the ruling and controlling principles among all of the nations of the earth. As these ideals shall be attained as time unfolds the future, so shall the day dawn when, in the words of England's greatest poet laureate, "The war-drum throbs no longer, the battle flags were furl'd, In the Parliament of man, the Federation of the world." Music by the band and singing by the school chil- dren added to the interest of the occasion. The benediction was by the Rev. E. M. Cousins of Thomaston. 28 Evening Exercises. The evening exercises were held in Watts' Hall which was prettily decorated. Over the center of the proscenium was a red banner on which was the inscription — " 300th Anniversary of Waymouth's Voyage 1605-1905." On either side were American and English flags. In the rear of the stage was a bank of green and across it in red, white and blue was the word — " Welcome." The front of the stage was draped in colored bunting, while the same mate- rial was festooned from overhead in the hall to the balconies, which were banked in green and festooned with bunting. Hon. Joseph E. Moore presided, and introduced Hon. James P. Baxter of Portland, who delivered the following address : We have assembled to-day to commemorate the three hun- dredth anniversary of the landing of George Waymouth upon these shores, one of the first achievements in a succession of enterprises which resulted in the English colonization of Maine, and which, with due regard to historical sequence, we may prop- erly view as of immeasurable importance, not only to the people of Maine, but to the English speaking race, and I may add, to the civilized world, for history is a web of varied woof, whose glowing threads are directed by an unerring hand toward the accomplishment of a beneficent end, and though we may often but imperfectly discern the relations of parts in the splendid design, which is ever expanding beneath our eye, we may be sure that such relations exist and are not beyond human under- standing. To deny this would be to install Chance in the seat of Providence. I have said that this is one of the first in a succession of enter- prises which resulted in the English colonization of Maine. I do not mean by this that the Maine coast had not been often visited before Waymouth's voyage of 1605. The Portuguese Corte-real 29 had visited it more than a hundred years before Waymouth, and Kohl thinks that the natives whom he captured for slaves were taken on or near the Penobscot. Be this as it may, the veil which conceals this region from \aew for more than a century after the discovery of North America by Cabot, is almost impenetrable. Cabot's discovery, when it became known to Europe, soon awak- ened the interest of adventurous spirits everywhere, especially in Spain, Portugal, France and England. Let us consider briefly what were the conditions existing for some time succeeding Cabot's discovery. By the convention of Tordesillas, which was held May 4, 1493, just after the return of Columbus, at which a treaty was formed and amended thirteen months later, the whole undiscovered Western Hemisphere was assigned by the Pope to Spain and Portugal, the dividing line being three hundred and seventy leagues west of the Cape de Verde Islands. According to this partition, if it gave Spain any right at all, Maine and the entire continent to the South was pre- empted to her, and when in 1581, Portugal came under her sway, the rights, if there were any which belonged to that king- dom, passed to her, and these joint rights might be made to cover the continents of America with adjacent islands from the Atlantic to the Pacific, or South Sea, as it was popularly called after the southern portion of it had been discovered by Magel- haens from the Isthmus of Darien. It would seem that Spain regarded the treaty of Tordesillas as of great importance to her interests, certainly she affected to so regard it ; yet, according to the law of nations, original discovery, conquest or purchase, alone constituted a valid title to lands. There was no question whatever among European nations that conquest extinguished the rights of the inhabitants of conquered territory, and conquest usually followed discovery ; nor were rights confined to the exact limits of discovery. Discovery of a seacoast carried rights inland, how far depended upon future possession. Cabot's discovery of the North American continent in the vicinity of Newfoundland, and his subsequent voyages along the coast, constituted England's claim to the North American conti- nent. This claim was vigorously contested especially by France, who went so far as to base rights to territory, which she after- wards named New France, upon discoveries made in her interest. 30 These claims are set forth in a document in the Bureau of Marine and Colonies, Paris, which has not as yet been printed ; though similar claims have been often put forth. In this document the writer bases priority of discovery and possession upon the voyage of Verrazano in 1524, and claims that he took possession of the continent for France from the thirty-third to the forty-seventh degree of latitude, or from Cape Romain, S. C, to the northern- most point of Cape Breton. He then proceeds to show continu- ous explorations and colonial enterprises in the voyages made by Cartier and Roberval from 1534 to 1542, of Alphonse in 1543, and of Ribaut and Ladonniere in Florida in 1562 and 1564, and brings in the futile enterprises of de la Roche in 1590, of de Chastes and ChamjDlain in 1603, and the successful colonial under- takings of Champlain in 1604 and later. Of course the discoveries of Cabot as well as those of the Corte-reals and the colonial venture of Fagundes,^ antedating the voyages of Verrazano, Cartier, and others named, are wholly ignored. John Cabot, on the 24th of June, 1497, discovered the North American continent at a point which he named '■'•prima tierra vista,'''' or first land seen, and set up a cross at some point on the land he had discovered in token of possession, though, owing to the disappearance of the " Chart and Solid Globe" which he is said to have made, the exact spot is still in controversy, some contending that it was Bonavista on the eastern coast of Newfoundland ; others on the coast of Labrador, and still others the eastern extremity of the island of Cape Breton, the legend mentioned, changed to '•'•terram primum visam^'' appearing off this island on the so-called Cabot map, which purports to have been made by Sebastian Cabot, who accompanied his father on his first voyage. This, of course, must be considered strong evidence in favor of Cape Breton as Cabot's landfall. Although Cabot's chart has disappeared, we have strong evidence that the great navigator sailed along the coast of North America on his second voyage in 1498, from the fifty-sixth degree of north latitude to a point as far south as Cape Henry. This evidence appears in the Spanish map of La Cosa, the pilot of Columbus, which was made in the year 1500. On this map no credit is given to Cabot, but English discoveries are recorded 1 Vide "D^couverte et Evolution Cartographique," etc. Harrisse, Vol. I, p. 25. 31 thereon, as Cavo de Englaterra, Cape England, and Cavo de Jorge, Cape George. As no European but Cabot bad visited the coast prior to the making of this map, La Cosa must have been indebted to him for his material ; but how, is the question. On July 25th, 1498, Ayala, the Spanish minister in London, wrote to Ferdinand and Isabella, and this letter has been preserved. In it he says, after giving an account of the equipment of Cabot's ships, " I have seen the map which the discoverer has made," and further on in his letter, *' I do not now send the chart, or map- mundi which that man has made." We see by this that Ayala had this material, and we may reasonably conclude that through him this chart of Cabot reached La Cosa, who was thus enabled to delineate for the first time the North American coast. Some writers have supposed that La Cosa simply attempted to make an outline of the east coast of Asia, and that he attached the names found on his map to points on that coast, but a careful study of his map dispels this idea.^ While it is extremely disap- pointing, as he runs his coast line for some unexplained reason from east to west, instead of from north in a southwesterly direc- tion, by turning the map so as to bring the coast line in the right direction it becomes possible to distinguish prominent features of the Atlantic coast. Who gave the map its nomenclature is still unexplained, but the names Cape England and Cape George seem to indicate that it could have been no other than Cabot himself. From what has been said thus far, the claim of England to original discovery of North America seems well established, and the French claim that Verrazano made the first discovery of the Atlantic coast in 1524, and the Spanish claim that Gomez accomplished the same exploit the next year fall to the ground. From the first, Spain's claim received but little consideration from her rivals. Especially was the Pope's action toward her disre- garded, and allusion having been made in his presence to his brother of Spain's reliance upon this, the French king sarcasti- cally remarked that he "should like to see the clause in our Father Adam's will which bequeathed to him this fine heritage." Fortunately, the ambitious projects which Spain had in other directions, and the consequent wars which she was obliged to 1 A reproduction of a part of this map may be found in "Documentary History, Maine," J. G. Kotfl, Vol. I, p. 151. 82 maintain, as well as her predilection for more southerly ventures, distracted her attention from large undertakings in the north. The French, however, inspired by the success of Verrazano, and more especially of Cartier in the St. Lawrence, became most powerful rivals of England in the field neglected by Spain. While there is reason to believe that Cabot really made the periplus of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, it has never been proved, and to Cartier the honor of penetrating it and discovering the great river of Canada must be accorded. Upon this discovery of Cartier France particularly relied, and to establish herself in the country discovered by that great navigator was a cherished project, hence, as political conditions favored, she made several attempts at colonization previous to Waymouth's voyage, all of which were abortive. Her fishermen, however, kept up a constant connection with the regions which they claimed, visiting from a very early date the waters which wash the northern shores of the continent, and plying their dangerous avocation with the fisher- men of England, Spain, and Portugal, who also adventured there for fishing and traflic with the savages. During the sixteenth century the French appear to have prose- cuted these fishing enterprises more vigorously than any of their rivals, though Poi'tuguese and English vessels probably visited the fishing grounds annually. Why, we may ask, were not colonies established here during the century following the English discovery ? To answer this question we must carefully study the conditions prevailing in Europe and America during this long period of preparation. During nearly the entire century from the time of Ponce de Leon's landing on the shores of Florida in 1513, Spain was pushing her explorations and conquests in the southern portion of the Western Hemisphere, and planting her colonies wherever she could find a foothold. Her rivals witnessed her triumphs in Peru, Chili, Mexico and elsewhere, and her treasure shij)s returning home laden with the spoils of conquest. It seemed as if this Iberian Colossus would never cease growing in power. In EurojDe her aggressions were unbounded. The most that France or England, both jealous of each other, could do, was to check her aggressions as occasion offered, and to do this kept them busy enough. It would have been imprudent to establish expensive colonies so far away unless they could be 33 protected from such a dangerous foe, to say nothing of the savage tribes whose strength was unknown, and who would be sure to molest them sooner or later. Neither France nor England were in a condition during the entire century, and for some time after, to maintain colonies in the New World, though attempts were made from time to time by ambitious spirits of both nations to found colonies, as by the French Roberval and Ribaut, and the English Raleigh and Gilbert, but such ventures were hopeless from the start. Another motive, too, had its effect in diverting England's attention from colonial undertakings. This was the hope of rivalling her Spanish competitor l)y reaching the treasures of India by a northwest passage. This Avas a dream which England cherished for a century, and which she made strenuous efforts to accomplish. The story of these efforts forms one of the most interesting chapters in her annals. Spain does not seem to have troubled herself about this. She had grown to even meditate the conquest and subjugation of England herself, and deliberately prepared to accomplish her purpose. Her real power, however, was greatly overestimated by other nations, as much so as that of Russia in our own day, and when her invincible fleet was bi'ushed from the sea by Drake, the sham colossus shrank to its proper proportions. The hope of a northwest passage to India also faded, and the Avay to colonization began to open both to France and England. The New England coast was exjjlored by Gosnold and Pring in 1602 and 1603, and Champlain made his way to St. Croix in 1604, to establish a colony there. The tercentenary of the brave French- man we celebrated last summer, and became familiar with the story of the sufferings of his colonists, and how, when disaji- pointed in the places he had chosen for a settlement, he set out the next season to explore the Maine coast westward, he heard from the savages the unpleasant news that Waymouth had pre- ceded him. Whether they told him that Waymouth had here set up a cross in token of English j)08se8sion we do not know, but probably he heard of it before his departure, and this may have been one of the reasons why he proceeded farther north with his people, and finally founded Quebec, the Stadacone of his prede- cessor, Jacques Cartier, which made possible a New France on the North American continent, and transferred to the New 34 World that irrepressible conflict which had long been waged in the Old World. To Waymouth^ and the men of his time the history of the three centuries which stretch between them and us was a sealed scroll which mortal hand could not unroll, but to us it lies open, with all its wonderful events vividly depicted. Could it have been as clearly revealed to them as it is to us, how marvelous it would have seemed ! As we glance over it, as it lies unrolled before our eyes, it is indeed a storied page. We see Popham and his brave Devonshire men, and follow them in their struggles through the terrible winter of 1607 to their disastrous ending ; the picturesque Smith as he explores the coast and names the country New England, and the sober Pilgrims and stern Puritans striving amid terrors of disease and death to found a new commonwealth, while to the north, like a dark cloud portending danger, the PVench are gath- ering to renew with them the^old struggle upon a new soil and amid new conditions. Nor is the struggle long delayed, for we soon see the painted savages led by the couriers of Frontenac creeping in the gloom of night upon the scattered settlements, and turn heartsick from the terrible scenes of fire and blood which desolate the land, and the hardships of the bereaved captives as they take up their weary march for Quebec. But the stout settlers are gathering for a conflict which cannot end until the mastery of the continent is determined, and through summers' heat and winters' cold we follow northward the cross of St. George, and witness the savage warfare along the border ; the advancing line of conquest ; the coming of the ships of Bos- cawen; the red-coated troops of Amherst and of Wolfe; the sullen retreat and surrender of the foe ; the fall of Louisburg and Quebec, and the cross of St. George in place of the lilies of France. An epoch has ended ; another is to dawn. Hardly have the shouts of victory ceased when men again begin to gather for • George Waymouth had been supposed to be a rough old mariner until I discov- ered some years ago, in what is known as the King's Library in the British Museum, a manuscript volume by him entitled the "Jewell of Artes," which he presented to King James I, not long before his voyage to Maine. This volume had remained nearly three centuries unnoticed, and I had it reproduced and bound precisely like the original volume. A glance at it will show that the author was an educated man and well versed in the .science of his time. 35 strife ; men who have marched shoulder to shoulder in the past are arming to meet each other on the battlefield. Why dwell upon the details? Lexington, Bunker Hill, Yorktown, their story is too familiar for repetition. The old flag of St. George which our forefathers followed to victory, and which wherever it goes carries assurance of law, order, enlightenment, of all that makes for the highest civilization, is no longer here. A new flag has taken its place, whose stars are symbols of hope and promise to those who seek shelter beneath it. Upon the shores along which the clumsy ships of Cabot and Verrazano and Gomez sailed so long ago, this flag, unknown to Waymouth, floats from snowy Maine to sunny Florida, that land of flowers where Ponce de Leon dreamed of eternal youth. Westward, too, it floats to that great sea upon which Magelhaens gazed with wonder, and which the ships of England first traversed when Drake encom- passed the world. Is it not a storied page, and have we not rea- son to wonder when we look over this vast continent and behold what has been accomplished by the English speaking race since Waymouth here met the naked savages ? Perhaps I have led you too far away from the event which we have gathered here to celebrate ; but a contemplation of the past is fruitful in lessons to guide our future. To-day we stand upon this eastern shore of the continent which the old voyagers supposed to be the outlying boundary of India, and which they fondly hoped to penetrate by some water- way to those cities of fabulous wealth described by Marco Polo. England above all cherished this dream, and though bafiled in this direction she turned eastward, and Lancaster, rounding the Cape of Good Hope, at last opened the way for her to realize her ambition. The great Orient, however, is still open to the conquest of commerce. Steam and electricity have advanced far in conqueiing space and time. Our flying trains and lightning wires bring the east and the west nearer to each other than ever Columbus or Cabot imagined them to be, and the great cities which are springing up upon our Pacific shores will draw to their marts the rich merchandise of Cathay of which our English forefathers so long dreamed.^ ' For two score years after Waymouth's memorable voyage a remnant of faith in the possibility of a northwest passage to Cathay still lingered in England. Even 36 Mrs. Ernestine Fish, of Boston, rendered a delight- ful solo. Miss Rita Creighton Smith, of Thomaston, the poet of the evening, read the following beautiful poem: WESTWARD TO ENGLAND ! A new Ballad inciting Englishmen to Planting of the Western Lands, upon example of the late prosperous Voyage to the North Parts of Vir- ginia, by Captain George Waymouth in the good ship Archangel. Now alle you English Gentlemenne Who scorn to live at ease, While there is fame for winnying Upon the Oceane Seas : You Mariners, whoo nothing dreade When Winds blowe lustilie : And all you honest Englishmen Who waste in Povertie : — Rise uppe and seek the Westerne lands, As wee to you shall tell. Who sailed with Captaine Waymouth In the brave Archangelle. By God's most gracious Mercie We were not tempest tossed : He brought us safe to harbour The daie of Pentecoste. And we founde a noble River Embayed on either hand, Which brought us up-warde, league on league, Into a pleasaunt lande : A Land enriched with fish and fieshe, And excellent with Trees, Where we were welle entreated By kindlye savages. We deeme that never Christians Had trodde upon that shore, And seen oure goodlie River Or stately Hilles before. Gorges, who, on account of his efforts to plant colonies upon our shores, earned the title of Father of American Colonization, wrote, not long prior to his death, which occurred in 1C47, that the savages reported to him that a people with shaven heads and wearing long robes came to them annually from the west in great ships bearing merchandise of various sorts to barter with them for furs, and that he believed this strange people to come from Cathay. This story of the savages was of course a fiction, but such a story was calculated to keep alive some faith in the old dream. 37 Shall England live imprison'd Within the Narrowe Seas, While there are Windes to beare us To shores as faire as these ? Or will you have it for a mocke To them of France and Spaine That Cabot, Gilberte, Raleigh, Have found you realms in vaine ? And gallante Martin Frobisher Has marked the Pathe you take. And you sail against the sun-sette Behind the sayles of Drake ! Up sayls, up sayls and vpestwarde ! Nor leeve another age Tour broade Landes lying fallow. Your children's heritage. Go forthe and wyn for Englande A wider home, and teache To Nations yet unthought on, Oure comelie English speeche. The lands of Golde and Pestilence, Leave them to greedie Spaine, And make your El Doradoe In fieldes of golden grains. And you shall finde a token Whereby alle Christian men Who reache our noble River May knowe it once againe : A token for the Frenchmen, If from the Northe they come. That we, the Menne of Englande, Have marked that spot for home. And if they dare uproote itte, God turn it to their loss ! Beside Saynte George's River We left Sainte George's crosse. Rev. Henry S. Burrage, D. D., of Togus, then delivered the following address : We are bringing to a close a memorable day in the annals of this historic town. Waymouth's voyage to the coast of Maine in 1605, his discovery of a river and his erection of a cross on 88 REV. HENRY S. BURRAGE, D.D. the shore of this harbor as a token of English discovery and sov- ereignty, are events of great significance in connection with the beginnings of colonization in the New World. We do well to celebrate such events, and the citizens of Thomaston have hon- ored themselves under the lead of Hon. J. E. Moore, by fittingly recognizing the place these events hold in a movement which ultimately was to be crowned with success far surpassing the fondest dreams of those hardy adventurers, who three hundred years ago crossed the Atlantic, lured on by visions of empires yet to be. The citizens of Rockland, once a part of Thomaston, have joined in the services of the day with characteristic enter- prise and enthusiasm. So also have the residents of other neighboring communities, dwellers in the valley of the St. George's River. All honor to those who on this day have laid aside the duties belonging to their ordinary avocations, and have devoted its hours to the consideration of events that carry us baqk to the dawn of American colonial history ! Queen EUzabeth died March 24, 1603. For England her reign throughout was an era of expansion. Under the influence of what Milton calls " the bright and bUssful Reformation," the people of her realm had developed an ever deepening sense of the boundless capacities and the solemn responsibilities of the human soul. The result was the awakening of a spirit of lofty endeavor. English merchants extended the trade of the king- dom to many and distant lands. English seamen were busily employed in visiting and exploring new countries, preparing the way for the establishment of prosperous colonies. Especially in the seaport towns were the people alive to the many opportuni- ties which the New World afforded for the exercise of liberty- loving. God-fearing, adventurous patriotism. ^ This era of expansion had not closed when Elizabeth died ; but it was drawing to a close. A struggle with the crown and its adherents, in the interests of the rights of the people, had become inevitable. Indeed the preservation of the life of the nation, in a great civil war, would soon call into exercise all its energies. But the time for this momentous struggle was not yet. Meanwhile, the New World afforded an attractive field for dominion-loving, dominion-seeking Englishmen. If earlier attempts, under Raleigh and other adventurers of the closing 39 years of the sixteenth century, had proved fruitless, added efforts more wisely planned and more resolutely executed would show, it was believed, better results. So the new century opened. American colonization was still a fondly cherished dream. Gosnold was on the New England coast in 1602. Pring was here in 1603. Their reports, eagerly awaited and carefully studied, aroused added interest in schemes opening the way to worthy enterprise and, it was expected, to untold wealth. That France had plans and purjjoses with reference to colonization here was only a spur to English endeavor. Not the white lilies of France, but the red cross of St. George, should betoken the mastery on this side of the sea ; and there was certainly need of haste if this great hope was to have its consummation. Raleigh at this time was in prison on a charge of which it is now believed he was guiltless ; but the Earl of Southampton, who had been thrown into prison for supposed connection with the conspiracy of Essex, ^nd had been released by the king in the summer of 1603, was deeply interested in new-world enterprises, and was in a situation for embarking in them. Indeed, even while in prison, he had aided in fitting out Gosnold's expedition. Not long after the earl's release Pring returned from his successful voyage. Associating with him his son-in-law, Thomas Arundell, afterward Baron of Wardour, also Sir Ferdinando Gorges and probably Sir John Popham, Chief Justice of England, the Earl of Southampton commenced preparations for an expedition to the American coast. During these preparations Pring was engaged in a South American enterprise, and the command of this new expedition to the New England coast was given to Capt. George Waymouth of Cockington, a small village, now a part of Torquay, on the Devonshire coast. Until within a few years it was supposed that Waymouth was a bluff, brave, resourceful mariner only. But during some researches in London not long ago, the president of the Maine Historical Society, Hon. James P. Baxter, discovered in the king's library a manuscript volume presented by Way- mouth to King James I, probably in the early years of his reign, which bears abundant evidence to the fact that Waymouth was proficient in mathematics, especially in geometry, and that he was also an accomplished draughtsman. Doubtless he obtained 40 his education on those " four prentize shipps " to which he refers in some autobiographical remarks. Certain it is that in his studies he gave attention not only to navigation, but to ship- building and to the art of fortification. An apt scholar along these lines, in the course of years he passed through all the vari- ous offices on board of a ship, advancing from the lowest to the highest. When the seventeenth century opened, Waymouth was already so well known as a navigator that in 1601 ( by the Wor- shipful Fellowship of the Merchants of London trading into the East Indies) he was given the command of an expedition for the discovery of a northwest passage to the Orient. This expe- dition, which sailed from the Thames May 2, 1602, was of course a failure. The pathway to the Indies, as any school-boy now knows, did not lie in that direction as men had long supposed. The promoters of the expedition found no fault with Waymouth because of the ill-success of the voyage, but on the contrary they decided that " being very competent " he should have the com- mand of a second expedition in the same quest. But this new enterprise failed of realization. Having lost their venture in the first expedition, these London merchants found their disappoint- ments at length too strong for them. In a word their courage failed, and the proposed second expedition was at last abandoned. It was in this period of delay and suspense, it is thought, that Waymouth prepared his "Jewell of Artes," the volume which he presented to the king. Among those to whom James doubt- less exhibited this volume, with its beautiful colored illustrations and curious demonstrations, was the Earl of Southampton. Certainly in one way or another the evidence was at hand that Waymouth was admirably qualified for the command of the expedition that the Earl and his friends had in contemplation, and he was called to its direction. Although we have a " Relation " of the events of the voyage from the pen of James Rosier, who accompanied the expedition and was its historian, we have no account of the preparations that were made in the equipment of the vessel, or in the selec- tion of the crew. Even the name of the vessel, the Archangel, is not mentioned by Rosier, though it has come down to us in the annals of a contemporary chronicler. Aside from 41 Waymouth (the commander), Rosier, and Thomas Cam (the mate of the Archangel), we have no mention of the men emjjloyed in the expedition, twenty-nine in all. Most of them, as Rosier tells us, were " neere inhabitants on the Thames." They were doubtless such men as an expedition of that character would attract — hardy seamen who were ready for any enterprise that promised novelty and adventure. The vessel was made ready for the voyage at Ratcliffe on the Thames, a hamlet east of London. Ratcliffe highway, which connected the village with the great English metropolis, was the Regent Street of London sailors, and we may quite accurately picture to ourselves the scene at the dock when the sailing day came. It was at the opening of the season, Tuesday, the 5th day of March, and everything was in readiness. In all probability among those assembled at the dock were the Earl of Southampton, his son-in-law Thomas Arxmdell, and possibly Sir John Popham. There were many best wishes for the whole company, and many last words. Then, about the middle of the forenoon, the lines were cast off, strong English cheers went up from the crowd at the dock, and the Archangel dropped down the stream, a fair wind in four hours bringing the vessel to Gravesend, thirty miles below Lon- don. Head winds kept the voyagers on the English coast until the close of March. April 1, the vessel was six leagues south- east of the Lizards, the most southern promontory of England, On the 14th of April, Corvo, and afterwards Flores, islands of the Azores group, were sighted. As the voyage continued southerly winds prevailed, and Waymouth, unable to hold the course he had purposed to take, was compelled to head the Archangel further to the northward. On the 13th of May there were indications of the near approach of land, and on the follow- ing day a sailor at the masthead descried a whitish, sandy cliff, west north-west, about six leagues distant, now supposed to be Sankaty Head, the eastern extremity of Nantucket. Nantucket is surrounded by shoals, and Waymouth, sailing in toward the sandy cliff thus descried, soon found his vessel in peril. By his discovery of the peril, however, he was able to rescue the Arch- angel from her dangerous position. At once the prow of the vessel was turned back, and standing off all that night and the next day, Waymouth endeavored to make his way to the southward 42 but the wind was contrary. Again, on the 16th of May the Archangel was headed toward the land, but where the charts located it, it was not to be found. At the close of the following day, however. May 17, land was again discovered, but the wind was blowing a gale, the sea was running high, and it was not deemed safe to approach the shore. In the early morning it was discovered that the land was that of an island " some six miles in compasse " according to Hosier's estimate, and by noon the Archangel was anchored on the north side of the island, and about a league from it. This island, named by Waymouth St. George, was Monhegan, as all writers concerning it agree. Waymouth landed upon the island, but only for the purpose of securing a supply of dry wood. Evidently Rosier was one of the landing party. " From hence," he says, " we might discerne the maine land from the west south-west to the east north-east, and a great way ( as it then seemed, and as we after found it ) vp into the maine we might discerne very high mountaines, though the maine seemed but low land ; which gaue vs a hope it would please God to direct vs to the discouerie of some good ; although wee were driuen by winds farre from that place, whither ( both by our direction and desire ) we euer intended to shape the course of our voyage." Have you ever had that view on a bright, beautiful day in May or June ? I am aware that Hosier's words may have refer- ence to the view of the coast one has from Monhegan, or from the deck of the Archangel anchored a league north of the island. In either case the scene is one of remarkable attractiveness. The St. George's Islands are so far away as almost to blend with the coast line ; and farther back, higher " vp in the maine," are the Union and Camden Mountains, beautifully, darkly blue, conspic- uous features of the landscape. The tourist on our coast in summer, in his yacht or on some coastwise steamer, will find himself looking with lingering delight upon a scene of such singular charms. The Archangel remained at her anchorage that night, and on the following day, Whit-Sunday, because the vessel " rode too much open to the sea and winds," Waymouth weighed anchor, and brought his vessel " to the other Hands more adjoyning to the maine, and in the rode directly with the mountaines." 43 Strangely enough there have been those who have supposed that the mountains Waymouth saw, and in the direction of which he made his way to the other islands where he found a convenient harbor, named by him Pentecost Harbor, were the White Moun- tains. But this theory has found no advocates for many years, though some in this time have unwittingly repeated old errors. The fact is that the White Mountains are not visible from the deck of a vessel in the position of the Archangel. The late Cap- tain Deering of the steamer Lewiston, and the late Captain Den- nison of the steamer City of Richmond, who for many j'ears sailed along our coast from Portland to Machias, have left us this testimony, that never in all these years had they seen Mt. Washington from the waters north of Monhegan. Indeed only at rare intervals, when the sky is exceptionally clear, can the towering peak of Mt. Washington be seen from the high ground on which the Monhegan lighthouse stands, and then merely as a faint speck on the horizon ; while north of Monhe- gan, " a great way vp into the maine," objects which no mariner approaching our coast could possibly fail to notice, are the Cam- den and Union Mountains, clearly, darkly outlined against the sky. The harbor in which Waymouth anchored the Archangel, and which he called Pentecost Harbor, was an island harbor, and Hosier's narrative furnishes abundant means for its identification with the present St. George's Harbor. From Waymouth's anchorage, a league north of Monegan, this harbor could be reached by proceeding "along to the other Hands more adjoyn- ing to the maine, " and " in the rode " directly with the monu- tains which Waymouth had before him as he sailed in from his anchorage north of Monhegan, as Rosier says. Moreover, it was a harbor formed by islands, and could be entered from four directions. This is true of St. George's harbor, and in this vicinity of St. George's Harbor only. Indeed the endeavor to identify the Pentecost Harbor of Rosier's "Relation" with Boothbay Harbor, or with any other harbor on the neighboring coast, fails to meet these and other requirements of Rosier's narrative. But the paramount purposes of the voyage were not to be met by merely an approach to the coast. Wajonouth spent a few 44 days in finding for himself and his men rest from the weariness of the way thither; and then the work of exploration began. In his shallop which had been put in order, and with nearly half of his company, Waymouth proceeded in toward the main land in order to discover its resources and possibilities for English colonization, and soon found himself in a "great riuer. " Up this river Waymouth passed irj his shallop, probably with the tide and returning with the tide ; and then, in the middle of the next forenoon, he returned to Pentecost Harbor with the joyful announcement of this happy discovery. A week and more were spent in added exploration among the islands and along the coast. Then, on the 11th of June, with a favoring breeze and tide, Waymouth brought the Archangel into the river which he had discovered. In his "Relation," in glowing words Rosier gives expression to the thoughts and feelings of the whole com pany as from the high deck of the Archangel they viewed the land on either side. They noted its pleasant fertility; looking into its many "gallant coues" on the right and on the left they beheld the numerous excellent places for docking and repairing ships; and again and again the possibilities which the scene ever3rwhere suggested deeply stirred and thrilled them. Many of the company had been travellers in various countries and on the most famous rivers, yet, says Rosier, "affirmed them not com- parable to this they now beheld." Some who had been with Sir Walter Raleigh in his voyage to Guiana, and had sailed up the " Orenoque," were raised to loftier enthusiasm here. Others, who were familiar with the Seine and Loire, the glory of France, found here in this river of the New World features that were unequalled in these renowned, historic rivers of Europe. " I will not prefer it before our riuer of Thames, " wrote Rosier, " because it is England's richest treasure ; but we all did wish those excel- lent Harbours, good deeps in a continuall conuenient breadth and small tide gates, to be as well therein for our countries good, as we found them here (beyond our hopes) in certaine, for those to whom it shall please God to grant this land for habitation ; which if it had, with the other inseparable adherent commodities here to be found; then I would boldly affirme it to be the most rich, beautifull, large & secure harbouring riuer that the world affoordeth. " 45 In this highly colored sketch we may easily discover conta- gious enthusiasm and easy exaggeration ; yet one passing up the St. George's River at high water on a beautiful day in May or June must be unresponsive to nature in her loveliest moods if he should not find himself in sjonpathy with Wa3Tnouth and his little company, their hearts thrilled with an ecstacy of delight as they looked out upon the many objects of wondering interest which their enraptured eyes beheld. There have been those who supposed that the " great riuer " which Waymouth discovered and ascended was the Kennebec, and some have thought it was the Penobscot. But as one of your own citizens. Captain George Prince, clearly demonstrated nearly a half century ago, neither the Kennebec nor the Penob- scot satisfies the points of identification which Hosier's "Rela- tion " unmistakably presents. The breadth and depth of the river, the character of the bottom, and especially the " very many gallant coues " on either side, answer to these features of the St. George's River, and to no other on our Maine coast. Moreover, the direction of the river " as it runneth vp into the maine " is, as Rosier says, "toward the great mountaines." All the way up the St. George's River the Union and Camden Mountains are in full view. What mountains will one have before him as he sails up the Kennebec or the Penobscot? Waymouth seems to have anchored the Archangel near the ruins of Fort St. George, on the eastern bank of the river. On the following day, in his light-horseman, with seventeen of his men, he proceeded up the river to the " codde " or bay at the point where the river trends westward, the site of Thomaston. Here they landed, and ten of the party marched up into the country toward the mountains back in the main, which they first descried on approaching the land. At first these moimtains, as Rosier says, seemed only a league away, but after they had gone some distance, the weather " parching hot, " and all being " weary of so tedious and laboursom a trauell," the order to face about was given, the party returned to the boat and then to the Archangel. On the following day the work of exploration was continued by an examination of that part of the river not previously visited, a distance estimated by Rosier as twenty miles. The 46 " beauty and goodness " of the land Rosier mentions in glowing words, also the fact that on the return, at that part of the river which trended westward, accordingly here at Thomaston, a cross was erected as a token of English discovery and possession, a fact commemorated here this afternoon by most appropriate services. A few years ago, the late Hon. J. L. M. Curry, then United States Minister to Spain, found in the library at Simancas a map of the Atlantic coast line of the United States compiled in 1610 by a surveyor sent over to Virginia by King James for that pur- pose. Into his hands, evidently, the king placed the earlier maps of Gosnold, Pring, Wayraouth and others ; and from these, and such personal information as he was able to gather, without visiting (so far as is known) the New England coast, produced a maj) surprisingly accurate. On it are indicated such marked features of the landfall of our Maine coast as the Union and Camden Mountains. A single mountain, west of the Kennebec, may be intended to represent Mt. Washington as seen from Small Point. But of especial interest, in connection with the celebration of to-day, is the fact that on this Simancas map of 1610, the St. George's River, under its Indian name Tahanock, is delineated with its characteristic features ; while at the very point where, according to Rosier, Waymouth erected his token of English discovery and possession, is the mark of a cross. What is this cross but the cross which Waymouth erected, and which he marked upon his "perfect geographicall map" — the map made by Waymouth, as Rosier tells us in his "Relation." Strong testimony in confirmation of such a supposition we have in the fact that on the Simancas map Monhegan is designated "I St. George. " This is the name given to Monhegan by Way- mouth. " The first Hand we fell with," says Rosier, " was named by us St. George's Island, " a name which later was transferred to the group of islands nearer to the main land. From this further exploration of the river, and this erection of a cross in the interest of the country from which they came, Waymouth and his men returned to the Archangel. The object of the expedition, in a degree even far beyond their hopes, had now been accomplished. They had discovered a bold coast, "an excellent and secure harbour for as many Ships as any nation professing Christ is able to set forth to Sea, " a river, which the 47 all-creating God had made a highway over which the great riches of the land might easily and safely be borne — a land whose invaluable riches the Indians could "neither discerne, vse, nor rightly esteeme, " and it was fitting that there should be haste in returning to England in order speedily to bring this information to the " Honourable setters foorth " of the expedition which had for its ultimate end, as Rosier expressly states, "a publique good and true zeal of promulgating God's Holy Church by planting Christianity. " Already, while at Pentecost Harbor, Waymouth had seized five Indians, purposiag to take them to England with the design of teaching them the English language and in this way of secur- ing from them added information concerning their people, rulers, mode of government, &c. The Archangel now dropped down the river to its mouth, and then to Pentecost Harbor, where water was taken aboard ; and on the sixteenth of June, the wind being fair, and all preparations for the departure having been completed, the Archangel set sail on her homeward voyage. Over summer seas and full of the joy which success achieved always awakens, establishing on the voyage confidential relations with their Indian captives, Waymouth and his little company made their wa}^ back to England, anchoring the Archangel in Dartmouth Haven on July 18. Hosier's "Relation" of the voy- age ends here. We are not told with what welcome the voyagers were received, or upon whose ears the story of their adventures first fell. But it requires no stretch of the imagination to bring before us the scene as on that Thursday afternoon, about four o'clock, the Archangel came to her anchorage, and the members of the expedition Avere surrounded by their eager questioning countrymen. Heroes they all were, but of what special, wonder- ing interest were the five Indians — the dusky aborigines of the American forests — whom Waymouth had brought with him as specimens of the inhabitants of the New World ! It was a thrilling narrative that was told, we may well believe ; and it was told graphically on the deck of the Archangel, or later in the lounging places of the town where the sailors rehearsed the more promi- nent details of the voyage. How long the Archangel remained in Dartmouth Haven we are not told. Rosier mentions no other harbor or harbors in 48 q: o GQ ir < o CO o> CD CO cc >, O r= connection with the rettirn of the expedition to England ; and it seems probable that leaving the vessel in Dartmouth Haven he hurried to London to place before the promoters of the voyage the tidings which they so eagerly awaited. According to Sir Ferdinando Gorges, Waymouth brought the Archangel into the harbor of Plymouth, where Gorges was in command as governor. This must have been after the arrival at Dartmouth Haven, for Rosier tells us this was the first " harbour in England" entered by the Archangel on her return. While the Archangel was in Plymouth harbor, Waymouth delivered into the care of Sir Fer- dinand© Gorges three of the Indians. According to Gorges this was a fact of prime importance in connection with his New World colonization schemes ; for in his " Briefe Narration, " referring to the Indians who came into his possession at this time, he says, " This accident must be acknowledged the means under God of putting on foot and giving life to all our planta- tions. " With ever deepening interest Gorges listened to the answers these Indians gave to his eager questionings. "The longer I conversed with them, " he says, " the better hope they gave me of those parts where they did inhabit, as proper for our uses ; especially when I found what goodly rivers, stately islands and safe harbors those parts abounded with, being the special marks I levelled at, as the only want our nation met with in all their navigations along that coast. And having kept them full three years, I made them able to set me down what great rivers ran up into the land, what men of note were seated on them, what power they were of, how allied, what enemies they had and the like. " We have no record of Waymouth's return to London and of his interview there with the promoters of the expedition. Arundell had been elevated to the peerage, and only a month after the return of the Archangel he was appointed colonel of an English regiment raised for service in Holland. It is probable, therefore, that he was now interested in other enterprises than those on this side of the sea. The Earl of Southampton, however, continued his inter- est in American colonization, but in connection with the London Company of Virginia, in whose second charter his name stands next to those of the high officers of state ; and he remained at the head of its governing board until the second charter was taken away. 49 But the influence of these men, so far as English interest in colonization on our New England coast is concerned, was more than made good by the influence of Sir John Popham, Chief Justice of England. Indeed he seems to have had some part in the Archangel's quest, for on the return of the vessel two of the ndians seized by Waymouth were turned over to him. By what he learned from these men of the New World his interest in western colonization was greatly intensified. With Sir Fer- dinando Gorges he was soon busy with plans for added explora- tion, and in 1606 each dispatched a vessel destined for the New England coast. That fitted out by Sir John Popham, on which were two of Waymouth's Indians, was captured by the Spaniards and the venture was lost. Gorges' vessel, however, with which went Captain Pring, succeeded in reaching the coast, and Pring returned bringing " with him the most exact discovery of the coast," says Gorges, " that ever came to my hands." Why the command of neither of these two vessels sent out in 1606 was given to Waymouth, we can only conjecture. Higher ambitions seem to have seized him after his return in 1605, and it is probable that he sought service under the crown. If so his seeking was unsuccessful, and his later career was one of almost continual disappointment. But Pring's expedition confirmed the impressions concerning the New World which were made upon Waymouth's company. Accordingly Sir John Popham did not lose heart on account of the disaster that befel his vessel, and the Popham colony in 1607, in which the Chief Justice had so prominent an interest, followed close upon Pring's return. By this colony the results of Waymouth's expedition were made secure. Here at Thomaston and on one of the St. George's islands — probably Allen's Island — Waymouth had established an English claim to right of possession. No time was lost in making good that claim by the planting of colonists on the New England coast. England — not France, not Spain — was to have dominion here. The failure of the Popham colonists to retain their hold at the mouth of the Kennebec — great as that failure was — did not silence England's claim to possession. Yet Royalist interests, fostered by Sir John Popham, Sir Ferdi- nando Gorges and others alUed to the fortunes of the Stuaii; dynasty, were not to obtain any strong foothold here. The 50 Puritan was already looming large in English concerns. Elizabeth had sought to hinder his rise, but the emphasis which Puritanism gave to the concerns of the soul made such a profound impres- sion upon the great body of the English people that the result was the awakening of that personal consideration of duty and destiny which developed speedily throughout the land a strong, stalwart national force. Says Green, in his " History of the English People, " " Their common calling, their common brotherhood in Christ, annihilated in the mind of the Puritans that overpowering sense of social distinctions which character- ized the age of Elizabeth. There was no open break with social traditions; no open revolt against the social subordination of class to class. But within these forms of the older world beat for the first time the spirit which was to characterize the new. The meanest peasant felt himself ennobled as a child of God. The proudest noble recognized a spiritual equality in the poorest ' saint. ' " Already the Royalist party in England, in relation to the Puri- tan party, Avas to see repeated the experience of the Forerunner, "He must increase, I must decrease." Emphatically was this true here in New England, whither came the Pilgrims in 1620, and the Puritans in 1629, followed for a decade by thousands of those who saw on this side of the sea the opportunity for build- ing a better England founded upon those ideals which had come to have overmastering force, but for the realization of which old England did not present the same ground of reasonable expectation. It is the chief significance of this celebration that it records, and makes prominent, the fact that here at Thomaston and on one of the St. George's islands was the earliest known English claim to the right of possession on the New England coast — a claim to which expression was given by the erection of a cross. Nor was it made any too soon. Waymouth left Pentecost Har- bor on his return voyage June 26 (N. S.). De Monts, whose little colony at St. Croix Island had experienced terrible suffering during the winter and had lost nearly half its number by death, had now determined to seek another location for settlement, and June 18 (N. S.) — therefore eight days before Wajnnouth set sail for England — the French explorer, in a vessel of fifteen 51 tons, with about as many in his party as Waymouth numbered in his company on the Archangel, set forth on an expedition down the coast. No mention of English adventurers in the same neighborhood is made until de Monts' return, when having reached the Kennebec on July 29, his chronicler, Champlain, mentions the fact that while at the Kennebec information was received from an Indian concerning a ship ten leagues away, whose men had killed five Indians under cover of friendship; and Champlain adds that from a description of the men on the vessel " we concluded they were English. " Plainly the refer- ence was to the Archangel. As Waymouth did not set sail from Pentecost Harbor on his return to England until more than a week after de Monts left St. Croix Island on his exploration of the coast, there was an opportunity, it would seem, for a meeting of the French and English explorers. In the presence of repre- sentatives of the two nationalities on the coast at the same time, it would also seem as if France would be ready to dispute the claim of right of possession which Waymouth had here asserted in England's behalf. But happily de Monts, in passing along the New England coast as far as Cape Cod, found no place suit- able for colonization, as it seemed to him, and withdrew his colony from St. Croix Island to Port Royal. It was not a matter of little importance, therefore, that Way- mouth erected his cross here and that de Monts retired across the Bay of Fundy. It is true there were later attempts on the part of the French at Mt. Desert and Castine to secure a foot- hold on the New England coast, but their efforts were unsuccess- ful ; while England from this time on strengthened her grasp upon this fair western domain, and let it be known in language that could not be misunderstood that she intended both to have and to hold the prize she had seized. At the celebration at Calais and St. Croix Island a year ago, commemorating the three hundredth anniversary of de Monts' settlement in 1604, the French Consul General at Montreal, in an address, pathetically remarked, " It has been the lot of France to scatter many fruitful seeds the benefits of which others have reaped." The fact is that in the early history of American col- onization, France not only had seized but held a commanding position upon the continent. The St. Lawrence river, discovered 52 by Gartier, afforded easy access to the valley of the Mississippi by way of the Great Lakes. But England, advancing from the Atlantic coast, was even more fortunate. The stars in their courses fought on her side, it is true; but there were resolute purpose, strong determination, and unconquerable energy on the part of our English ancestors to the end that English laws, English traditions and English ideas should here become fruitful ; in other words that from the seed here sown, they, not others, should reap. Because of what they did, we have a New England on these western shores. Have we still their spirit ? Certainly, it will little avail us to build monuments as memorials of great deeds accomplished in the long ago unless we cherish the spirit that enabled our fathers to do these deeds. May this celebration, by recalling the begin- nings of our colonial history, beget in us all better desires and nobler purposes — desires and purposes which shall make us more worthy citizens of this great and prosperous republic. Mr. Baxter had brought to Thomaston his fac- simile copy of Waymouth's " Jewell of Artes," referred to by Dr. Burrage in his address, and at the close of the exercises of the evening this beautiful volume was exhibited to many who lingered to exam- ine its interesting pages. The day throughout was one of very great interest. This brief account should not close without a refer- ence to the delightful informal reception given to the guests of the day in Thomaston homes, and especially by Dr. and Mrs. J. E. Walker at their beautiful colonial residence. The spacious rooms, fragrant with the scent of innumerable roses and pinks, and bright with English and American flags, the brilliant uni- forms of the naval officers mingling with the lighter colors of the dresses of the ladies, presented a most attractive picture. 53 titt ••^^^^' ■^^■& A^"^. '^^ A^^ •i ..... ^^ * ; .«^-^*. 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