5} r^^ •>fK'i^'^''"*'^n^'«>'J'' ^KeepUr Hospital »j,inJ(uuis J of the J,;;^^; ifvRuvns SraOa-yix^ Old § Durhatn Kefeience *'s^icxv»;^g ^fiscKTrti^J- ^ftd lis --^3 GE O M.GE AiTXAW E S Q ? Fo So Ao 6r r:^ FrintedScSo/d ivTMog^eO: Market Flace. ScZongmuw & C f Paternoster Row. Zondon. m ,''j /a?- :^^ FREFACE. TH£ motive which induced the Editor to attempt a Delineation of the History of the City of Durham, a<' i its Environs, Mas, ih order te obviate a dfsii'iratum very generally regretted, namely, a AVork that might serve as a Gruide to the numer- ous interesting Places in this City, and the adjacent Country. In deducing the History of the City of Durham, and its Environs, ab arigiae to the present time, the Editor has endeavoured, consistent with explicitness, to give as epitomized an Account of its Eeclesiastitial. and Civil Polity as he possibly could. The subsequent part of the Work embraces an Ac- count of the Buildings and Places in the Vicinity of Durham, which, it is presumed, are worthy of notice — either on. account of their great Antiquity, or in cou- 4 lY PREFACE. sequence of their having been the scenes of some memorable event — and comprehends a brief De- scription of the Seats and principal Villages in its Neighbourhood. The Editor has derived mudi useful information from several Publications and MSS. connected witli the Topography of the County of Durham, from which., he has not scrupled to make some very considerablfe extracts. It would be foolish to, anticipate any merit for so.; diminutive a performance : Should he be fortunate enough to havx3 rendered any service to the Public,, his trouble will be amply compensated,. DURHAMi Aprilv 1st, 1824 i CONTENTS. PAGE Aldin Grange - * * - 119 ' Bridge, Tradition relating to • - 98 Alms Houses - - - • 50 Anecdote of James I. . - - 136 Anthem for St. Cuthbert - - - 211 Assembly Rooms - * - ^ 59 Associations - * - * 60 AyclifF Heads, Seat of - - • 131 Banking Houses - - - - 62 Banks (Public Walks) Description of the - 50 Bearpark, a memorable Place ^ . - - 102 Beverley, John of, Account of - - " 170 Bishopric of Durham, early History of * - 155 Bishops of Lindisfarne, List of - » 210 of Chester - - * - ibid ' of Durham . - . ^ 37 Blue Coat and Sunday Schools - * 58 Bolden Buke, Account of - - • 204 Brancepeth, Village, Castle and Church of - 121 Brandon, Village and Hill, Tumulus on - - 120 Bridges, Description of - - * 52 Burnhall, Seat of - - - - 105 Butterby, Manor of, and Mineral Waters there - 88 Castle, Account of the ... 46 Cathedral, founded - - - - 12 Galilee built, Reason why - - 13 St. Cuthbert's supposed aversion to Females - 15 Punishment for approaching his Shrine - 16 ▼1 CONTENTS. PAGE Cathedral, Dimensions of - - -17 Its grand Situation and Exterior described - ibid Interior described - . - ig. Monuments of John and Ralph Lords Neville - 19 Episcopal Throne - - - 20 Monument of Bishop Hatfield - - ibiil Skreen - - - - 21 Choif - - . - 22 Chapel of the Nine Altam - . 23 Feretory - - - - 24 Galilee - - - - 28 Ornamented Door-w ays - - 29 Privileged as a Sanctuary - - 31,184 Cloisters - - - - 32 Chapter House - - , Und Libriiry - - - - 33 Doi-mitory - - = - ibid College .... ibi^ Cathedral repaired - =. - 34 Establishment of the - - - 35 Cfiester-le-Street, the Village and Church of - 1^2 Cocken Hall, the Scat of - - - 131 Coxhoe, Seat of - - - - 107 Crook Hall - - - - 130 Croxdale Hall, Seat of - - - im Cuthbert, St., Legend of - - - 153 • Account of his Bearers - - 191 Story of his Coffin - - 168 Dissenting Places of Worship, and Catholic Chapels 45 Dodsley, Robert, Monument to - - 36 Durham, Old, Account of - - - 82 Edmund, Bishop of Durham, miraculous Election of 191 Egyptians, Persons hanged for being - - 39 Elemore Hall, the Seat of - - - 109 Eshe Hall, the Seat of ... 119= CONTENTS. Vii PAGE Ethel wold, Cross ei-ected by - - - 207 Exchequer, and Bishop's Courts, Accouilt of - 48 Fairs .--'-- 61 Farn Island, Description of - - - 164 Finchale Priory, Ruins of - - ■» 91 FlassHall - - -" - 119 Framwelgate, Borough and Bridge of - ^ 53 Free Masons' Lodge - - - 58 Gaol, &c.. Account of - - - 57 Giles, St., Church of, Views from the Church-yard 41 Gilpin, Bernard, the Northern Apostle, long Account of 110 Godric, St., Account of - - - 91 Government of the City of Durhan» - - 63 Grammar School - -^ -' - 49 Grove ----- 130 Guthred, King of Northumberland, Account of - 181 Hardwick Hall, the Seat of - - - 108 Houghall, an ancient Manor House . - - 88 Houghton-le-Spring, an extensive Village, Church at, Gram- mar School, and Rectorial: Mansion J - 110 Infirmary - - - - - 58 Inns, the principal - - -^ - 62 Kepier, Hospital of - ■* - - 81 Lambton Hall, the Seat of; Descent and Arms of the Lambton Family - - - . 138 •^ Worm, Tradition respecting - - 139 Library, the Bishop of Durham's - - 48 Subscription - - - 59 Lindisfarne, Description of - - - 160 Literary Characters . * - - 80 Lumley Castle, the Seat of - - - 134 Earls of Scarborough ; their Descent and Arms 130 Maiden Castle . , - . 82 Magdalen Chapel, Ruins of - - - 45 Margaret, St., Chapel of - - -44 VlU CONTENTS. PACE Market-place - - * - 54 Mary-le-Bow, or Bough, St., Church of - - 40 Mary-the-Less, St., Church of - . - 45 Mayors, List of • ■ . * 66 Nevill's Cross, Battle of; Description of the Cross - 95 Newspapers - - > • 62 Newsroom - • •> « 59 Newton Hall, the Seat of - - ► ISl Nicholas, St., the Church of - - - 39 Oswald, St., the Church of - • - 40 Oswald House, the Seat of - - - 105 Post Office - - - - 62 Preface to the Legend of St. Cuthbert - 147 Priors, ancient Custom of Burying the - - 27 Public Charities - ... 59 Race Ground - - * * 61 Register Office . - * . 49 Relics of St. Cuthbert, Account of their Translation 195 Representatives in Parliament for the City of Durham 73 Sedgefield, Village of - - - - 107 Sherburn House ... - 109 Hospital .... 84 Shincliff, Village of, and Hall - - - 107 Theatre - - - - - 59 Townhall ... - * 55 Ushaw, Roman Catholic Coflege of - - 120 Walclier, Bishop, Account of - - - 201 Well, a Chalybeate one ... 51 Whitworth, Seat of - - - - 130 mstoRicAh AND JDESCRIPTIVE VIEW OF TttE THfi CITV and CATlttDRAL The hame of the City of Durham* is said by ittost authors to be derived from its situation, the term being a corruption from the Saxon Words Dur, a hill ; and Holme, ^ river island. By the Latins, observes Cam- den, it is called DvneLmvsj and by the common people, Durham j or Duresme : the latter appellation * In an ancient Saxon poem, inserted in Hicke's Grimm. Anglo-Saxon, and referred by Adelung to the Danish-Saxon period, which this writer fixes between the years 780 and the time of the conquest, the topography, as expended, and all the inhabitants between the rirers Coqnet and Tees, to the extent of 50 miles, are said to have been employed at the command of U tlired,^ Earl of Northumberland. From the above circum- stances we are led to date the rise of the town of Durham in tlie opening of the eleventh century.' This town, indeed, appears to have had some forti- fications in the year 1040, at which time Duncan, king of Scotland, attacked it, when the townsmen sustained the assaults of the invaders for some time, and at length made a sally, in which they were victorious, the enemy being totally routed; and the heads of the Scotcli leaders, who fell or where taken prisoners, were fixed on poles round the market-place. On the accession of the Conqueror to the throne of England, many of the English, who were uneasy under the Norman yoke, assembled here and fortified them- selves, or, as it is said, built a castle with a rampart, and gave frequent sallies, waiting the arrival of Sevenoe^ the Danish king. But, on King William marching against them, and not receiving their expected assist- ance, they betook themselves to flight, when he entered the city, and granted the inhabitants many privileges. In the year 1009 IVilliani I. sent Robert Cumin, whom he h^d created Earl of Northumberland, to Durham, with a guard of 700 veteran Normans, Xo enforce his authority ; and, though repeatedly cautioned by tlie bishop, the earl still permitted bis soldiers, wlia 8 CITY OF DURHAM, were quartered in the city, to practice every species ot* cruelty and oppi'ession against the inhabitants, who formed associations against the Normans, upon which Cumin proscribed and murdered several of the land- holders ; this acted as a summons to the peasants, who immediately armed themselves and surrounded the city. At this time, says Hutchinson, the earl's guards had taken forcible possession of the houses, as their wan- tonness incited, and being dispersed through the town, in contempt of danger gave themselves up to ease and enjoyment. Just at the dawn of day the assailants broke open all the gates of the town, and flying in parlies through every street, made a dreadful slaughter of the Normans; insomuch that, Synieoa. says, the streets were filled with blood and carcases. Many were shut up in the house where the earl lodged, and defending it bravely, the enraged populace could not force an entrance ; therefore throwing in fire-brands, they set the edifice in flames. When those within sa^r the eminent peril to which they were reduced, they forced open the doors, and attempted to escape th« fury of the fire, but were slain as they came out. At length tlie building was reduced to ashes, with every thing within its walls. The fire was so^ vehement, tliiU the flames were seen to take hold of the western tower of the church. This aUlicting circumstance alarmed the multitude; the religious inhabitants, of the city, and even those in arms, ceasing fi'om the slaughter, felt upon their knees, with eyes filled with tears, and elcr yated haiids, petitioning heaven, that by the assistanfi& AND ITS ENVIRONS. 9 of the Holy Saint, and through his interposition, the sacred edifice might be spared from destruction. — Quickly the wind shifted, and bore the flames from the church. Thus the earl, on the calends of February, A. D. 1069, with his seven hundred guards (one man excepted who escaped with his wounds) were put to death ! William, upon hearing of this, detached a party of his troops to scour the country ; but before they had proceeded far, a thick fog so enveloped them, that they could scarcely see each other ; this, operating upon >superstitious minds, aided by the report of St, Cuthbert's miracles, so alarmed them, that they returned with precipitation ; fearful of incurring that saint's displeasure. William, however, was not to be so intimidated, but marching forward, desolated the coun- try in in such a manner, that for GO miles, between York and Durham, he did not leave a house standing; reducing the whole district, by iiie and sword, to a liorrible desert, smoking Avith blood, and in ashes. Neither monasteries or churches were spared ; and it is impossible to describe the miseries of the inhabit ants ; as a dreadful famine and mortality ensued, unequalled in the annals of Britain, the people being reduced to eat the flesh of hoises, dogs, and cats, and at last, even human carcases; for nine years the land lay untilled, being infested with robbers and beasts of prey ; and the remnant of the inhabitants, who had escaped the sword, died in the fields, overwhelmed with want and misery. Hoveden relates, '* tliat on (be tyrant's ap- proach to Durham, he fomid tlit^ loun evi.cuatrd, the 10 CITY OF DUBHAM, ecclesiastics fled, and the chiircli left without a minister to perform any sacred oflice. The king's army being dispersed in destructive parties over the country be- tween the Tyne and the Wear, beheld the villages deserted, the whole country a dismal waste ; and the inhabitants, with their flocks and other property, fled into the most secret recesses of the forests and moun- tains. But not moved to compassion by a scene so truly wretched, the barbarians set fire to the monastery of Jarrow, and made rejoicings over its ashes." These calamities again caused the disturbance of th^ bones of St. Cuthbert, which had now reposed for 75 years ; the bishop removing them to Lindisfarne, when another miracle is reported to have occurred. On the fourth day, in the evening, the bishop with a vast con- course of people having arrived on the shore opposite to the holy island of Lindisfarne, found the sea at high water. The severity of the w inter rendered the night- air intolerable to the aged as well as the tender, which caused great lamentation ; when, by a particular inter- position, the sea retired, and left a dry passage for the poor wanderers, who, with loud thanksgiving and holy joy, passed over to the island. But what completed the miracle, w^as, as Symeon asserts, " Tliose who carried the saint's remains, gave evidence, that as soon as the multitude had passed, the sea returned, and closed up the vacancy, which a few moments before had divided the water.'' Another miracle is likewise related by our author, who says, " That the king, whilst ho abode in Durham ^ entertaining a doubt of the AND ITS ENVIRONS. 11 incorruptible slate of St. Cutlibcrl's body, inquired diligently concerning it ; and notwidistanding tbc as- severations of several of the most pious and venerable men there, he still pretended to disbelieve it, and insisted on having an inspection of the sepulchre himself. Several bishops and abbots assented to his will, and thought it proper the king's pleasure should be complied Mitli. Whether provoked by the delay, or his suspicion of fraud was increased by the reluct- ance of the ecclesiastics to comply with his desire, is not pointed out; but the king solemnly vowed, if he wa:5 deceived in the relations he had heard, that the incorruptibility of the saint's remains was merely a tale to work upon the superstition of the vulgar, and the body was not found in the state represented to him, he would put to death all tliose.of superior rank throughout the city who had presumed to impose on him. A terror fell on such as heard his menaces, and they devoutly implored the mercy of Godj through the merits of the blessed St. Cuthbert> whilst the bishop whom the king had appointed, performed the service of high mass. The kingj determined to satisfy his curi- osity, immediately after the ceremony, commanded the officers of the church to open the sepulchre, and whilst he stood by, he found himself smitten on a sudden with a burning fever, which distracted him in an intolerable manner. Seized with such anguish and disease, he rushed out of the church, leaving untastcd a sumptuous banquet which the ecclesiastics had pre- pared lor him ; and instantly mounting, his horse, h© 1^ CITY OF DURHAM, fled from the city witli tlie utmost haste, never abating the speed of his courser^ till he arrived oh the banks of the Tees. An indication of the preternatural in- terference at such a time overawed the people, and greatly contributed to the veneration paid to the saint's shrine/* Tradition mentions, that the king in his haste > took his way down the narrow street called King's Gate, leading to the Bailey, and now called Dim CoW Lane. On tranquility being restored, the bishop and his companions quitted the isle of Lindisfame, returned to their desolated country, and at length replaced the sacred remains of their beloved saint in his shrine at Durham. Under several successive prelates, the benefactions and riches had continued to flow so rapidly to this shrine that William de Carilepo, the sixth in succession from Aldwin, thinking the church not magnificent enough for the remains of so great a saint, and having brought over from !^ormandy the plan of a hew chiirch, pulled down the old one 76 years after its first erection; and in its stead began the present structure, the foun- dation stones of which were laid by Malcolm, king of Scotland, bishop Carilepo, and Turgot, the prior, on the 11th of August, 1093; and so great was the pro- gress made in this work, that his successor, Ralph Flanibard, who died in 1128, lived to see the building carried nearly up to the roof. This prelate translated the remains of St. Cuthbert into the new church, and built a stately shrine, called the Feretory, near the AND ITS ENVIRONS. 1^ clioir; this shrine was composed of costly inarble> lined and gilt, and by the additional dwiations of the numerotis pilgrims, it became, in a short time, one o^ the richest altars in England. Among other benefactors to this fabric w^i^ bishop Hugh Pudsey, who began a new chapel at the east «nd, with an intention of dedicating it to the honour of the Virgin Mary, to Avhich females might have free access for devotional exercises ; but. before the work had proceeded far, vast clefts were discovered in the building, which was considered as a manifestation of the saint's displeasure, and which induced the bishop to relinquish his purpose ; he^ however, appropriated a part of the west end of the church for the virgin's ohapel, which he named the Galilee, where females were allowed to enter ; but th«y were on no account to be admitted within any other part of the cathedral; the reason of this exclusion is thus accounted for, by ^n ancient writer : '* Blessed St. Cuthbert, for a long time, led a most solitary life in the borders of the Picts, at which place great concourse of people daily used to visit him, and from whom, by the providence andgrac6 of God, never any returned without great comfort. This caused both young and old to resort unto him^ taking great pleasui^ both to see him, and to hear him speak. In which time it happened that the daughter of the king of the province, having illicit commerce with one of her fathers domestics, its effects Were perceived by the king, and he examined her concerning the author of her disgrace. She, instigated by an evil. c 14 CITY OF DURHAM, mind, instantly answered, * The solitary yomig mart who dwelleth hard by, is he who hath overcome me, and hy whose beauty I am thus deceived/ AYhere- tipon the king, furiously enraged, presently repaired to the hermit's place, with his daughter, attended by several knights, where he instantly accosted the ser- vant of God in the following manner : — * What art thou he, who, under the colour of religion profanest the temple and sanctuary of God ? Art thou he, wlio^ under the cloak and profession of an hermit, excrcisest thyself in all filthiness ? Behold my daughter w horn thou by thy wiles hath corrupted ; therefore now, at last, confess this thy fault ; and plainly declare here before this company, in what sort thou hast seduced her.' The king's daughter, marking the line speech of her father, impudently stepped forward and boldly affirmed, * That it was he who had done the wicked fact/ At which the 3^oung man, greatly amazed, and perceiving that this calumny proceeded from the insti- gation of the devil (wherewith he was brought into great perplexity,) applied bis whole heart unto Al- mighty God, sayiug as folio we th : — My Lord, my God, who only knoweth, and art the discoverer of all secrets, make manifest also this work of iniquity, and by some token disprote the same, which though it cannot be done by human policy, make it known by some divine token. When the young man, with great lamentation, and tears imutterable, had spoken these words, even suddenly, and in the same place where she stood, the earth making a hissing noise, presently opened, and AND ITS ENVIRONS. 15 swallowed her up, in the presence of all the spectators. As soon as the king perceived this miracle to happen in the presence of all his company, he began to be greatly tormented in his mind, fearing lest, for his furious threats he should incur the same punishment. Whereupon he, with his company, humbly craving pardon of Almighty God, with a further petition to that good man St. Cuthbert, that by his prayers he would crave of God to have his daughter again ; which petition the holy father granted, upon condition that from thence no woman should come near him. Whence it came to pass the king did not suffer any woman to enter into any church dedicated to that saint, which to this day is duly observed in all the churches of the Picts which were dedicated to that holy man." The great prejudice by which females were prohibited admission, may be estimated from the following anec- dotes : — " In the year 1333, Edward III. arrived at Durham, and lodged in the priory ; a few days after Queen Philippa came from Knaresborough to meet him, and being unacquainted with the custom of this church, went through the abbey gates to the priory, and after supping with the king retired to rest. This alarmed the monks, one of whom went to the king, and informed him, that St. Cuthbert had a mortal aversion to the presence of a woman. Unwilling to give any offence to the church, Edward immediately ordered the queen to arise, who, in her under garments only, returned by the gate through which she had en- tered, and went to the castle; after most devoutly 16 CITY OF DURHAM, praying that St. Cuthbert would not avenge a faulty which she had through ignorance cammitted.'^ In the year 1417, two women of Newcastle being determined to approach the shrine of St. Cuthbert nearer than was legally permitted, disguised themselves in man's apparel, but were unfortunately discovered in the attempt to complete their purpose^ and taken into custody. By way of punishment for their intended profanation, they were adjudged to walk, on tliree festival days, before the procession in St. Nicholas's church, Newcastle, and on three other holidays, at the church of All Saints, in the same town, habited in the dresses in which they committed the offence ; pro- clamation being first made as to the cause of this penance. The master and mistress of these curious females were at the same time ordered to attend the Spiritual Court at Durham, to answer the charge of being counsellers and abetters in this misdemeanor. The great central tower of tJie cathedral, winch was formerly called the lantern, was built as high as the gallery, by prior Melsonby, wlio was elected in the yaer 1233 ; and finished by prior Hugh of Darlington, who was elected in the year 1258, and erected the upper tower, in which the bells are now hung. The eastern transept, generally called the nine altars, is supposed to have been finished by prior Horton, wha acceded to the priory in the year 1289, and who also, placed the roof on the choir. The body of the church was vaulted witli stone about the year 1242, by bishop iFarnham and prior Melsonby. Adjoining tlie south, AND ITS ENVIRONS. 17 aisle of the choir is the vestry, built by Henry de Queeby, about the year 1300. The whole length of this venerable pile, which is a more regular edifice than is generally to be found iu structures of the like age, exclusive of the Galilee, is 411 feet, and the height of the middle tower is 214 feet. The Galilee at the west end is from east to west 50 feet, and from north to south 80 feet wide. The situation of this cathedral is extremely grand, the building stretching along the crown of an eminence, above 80 feet perpendicular from the surface of the river which washes its base ; on the M^est, this church rises on the points of rocks, which shew themselves on the summit of the mount, and almost overhang the stream. Frora the square called the Palace Green, the whole north front of the cathedral may be seen at once ; the west front, which consists of two highly ornamented square towers, with the Galilee between, appears to great advantage from the opposite side of the river. *' The basement line of the elevation," says Mr, Carter, " presents the projecting chapel of the Galilee, flanked by huge buttresses and arches, spring- ing out of the rock, to contribute due support to its walls, which form one vast combination of security to the main edifice itself." The great west window, en- riched with various compartments, rises, above the ^Galilee, up to the roof. The ornaments of the towers are modern; though an unsuccessful attempt has been made to render them similar to the original forms; tlieir summits being bounded by pinnacles and opea C 3 18 CITY OF DURHAM^ worked battlements. The centre tower, which rises from the intersection of the nave and transept, is singularly rich and elegant; being surrounded by a profusion of fine tracery, pointed arches, and other ornaments; and its buttresses graced with niches, m ithin which various statues are placed, representing the original founders and patrons of the see. In the interior of this magnificent building the con- nexion between Saxon and Norman architecture may be distinctly traced ; and the latter in its highest stage of perfection : a similar comparison may also be made with the English or pointed styles ; the chapel of the nine altars, partaking in its general enrichments and proportions of the architectural character of Salisbury Cathedral ; and thus, from its singular light appearance, forming a striking contrast with the massive Norman work which is prevalent in other parts of the building. " In the inside of the cathedral," says Mr. Pennant, '* is preserved much of the ponderous yet venerable magnificence of the early Norman style ; the pillars are vast cylinders 23 feet in circumference, some adorned with zig-zag furrows i others lozenge-shaped, with narrow ribs or spiral; the arches round, carved with zig-zags ; above are two rows of galleries, each a^ ith round arches or openings ; a row of small pilasters run round the sides of the church, with rounded arches intersecting each other ; the windo^vs are ob- tusely pointed." Near the west entl, in the middle of the nave, is the Bapiisterium or font, an elegant marble bason, covered with a fine piece of tabernacle -work of AND ITS ENVIRONS. lO red oak, of an octagonal form, riclily ornamented and supported by four columns about eight feet high, the whole being about 30 feet, and terminating in a pinnacle, decorated by a dove with expanded wings ; at a small distance, towards the east, and forming part of the pavement, is a long cross of blue marble, beyond which females were prohibited from advancing to St. Cuth- bert's shrine, Near the cloister door are the mutilated tombs of John and Ralph Lords Neville, the latter of whom was the first layman who was permitted to be interred within the cathedral ; these monuments which were formerly ornamented with recumbent figures,, were greatly defaced, as well as several others, by the Scots, of whom about 4000 were kept as prisoners in this church after the battle of Dunbar. The present elegant clock, which now stands .at the south end of the middle ti'ansept, was erected by dean Hunt and the chapter, in the year 1632. The south aisle, which is enclosed with a skreen of wood, is used for the early morning prayers; the north aisle, which is not used at present, is likewise enclosed with a wooden skreen. The front of the choir, which was formerly decorated with efligies of the saints and patrons of this church, is now enclosed with a skreen of oak, curioHsly carved with festoons of fruits and flowers ; the ascent to the choir is by two marble steps, and over the door is a large and fine-toned organ, beautifully painted and decorated. The stalls for the bishop, dean, pre- bendaries, &c. are finished in a magnificent style, witb^ tabernacle work ; beneath sit the lay-singers, almshouse 20 CITY OF DURHAM, men, and scholars on the foundation ; at the end of the stalls, the pavement is raised one step; on the right of which is the bishop's throne, an elegant struc- ture, erected by bishop Hatfield, about the year 1370. The throne is considerably elevated; and in the centre is a chair of state, having a canopy of ornamental tabernacle work ; it was repaired by bishop Crewe, in the year 1700 ; and new painted and gilt bj' ])ishop Egerton, in the year 1772. Under the throne, on the south side, is the tomb of its founder, which has thus been described by Mr. Carter : — "This beautiful statue lias fortunately been preserved in a nearly perfect state to this time ; a few of the most prominent parts having only suffered. The bishop is habited in his episcopal dress, richly adorned with sculpture, painting, and gilding, in imitation of embroidery. The outer gar- ment is the chasuble, in its ancient ample form, and much ornamented. On his hands are tlie episcopal gloves, embroidered on the back ; on his left arm is the maniple. Beneath the chasuble is the linen alb, or surplice ; and under that appears another garment or tunic, on which are richly embroidered three shields of arms. On the central shield are the arms of Eng- land ; on the two lateral one's the bishop's own coat * * In a curious MS. in the Herald's-office, are beautifully drawn all the Arms in this church, comprising one hundred and seventeen coats ; together with bishop Hatfield's monument, of which Geo. Allan, esq. has a trick from the late Ra. Bigland, esq. Garter. Dugdale's MS. notat. 6. 41. AND ITS ENVIRONS. 21 The honour of bearing the arms of England in this manner seems a proof of the high estimation in which this magnanimous prelate was held by his sovereign, and perhaps might have been granted to him in con- sequence of the distinguished part he bore in the signal battle of Neville's Cross. The feet of the bishop are covered with rich embroidered shoes, and on his head is the mitre, of its ancient low form." The painting and gilding which adorned this statue are now, how- ever, entirely defaced by a thick coat of light yellow. Near this tomb is a large pew for the prebendaries*^ ladies, and on the north side of the choir are the seats for the ladies of the bishop, dean, and others, near which is the pulpit, adorned with figures of the apostles^ neatly inlaid in the pannels, and almost as large as life* The descent into the side aisles, by five marble steps, is by a gate, and two side lights of open tracery work in wood, and finished above with tabernacle work. On each side of the high altar are four stalls of stone, originally designed either for the resting places of sick votaries, or of the officiating priests. The skreen which divides the choir from the Fere- tory and the chapel of the nine altars, is an elegant piece of workmanship ; and was given by John Lord Neville, at the expence of 4001. (a vast sum in those times,) the prior and convent contributing largely, by giving towards its completion, 1331. Qs. 8d. the work of it having been previously wrought in London, and sent hither by sea. It was erected by seven expert masons, who were almost a year in completing it, to 22 CITY OF DURHAM, whom the convent allowed diet and wages; it was finished in the year 1380, at which time the high altar was dedicated. The design of this screen is divided into three stories. The lowest or basement is solid ; the second and third are open, so that the statues, which filled the niches, or rather canopies, were seen, though in a back view, from the east side. The light and airj pinnacles, rising in a pyramidical form, tier above tier, in splendid confusion, cannot be too much admired; the whole of this beautiful skreen, however, has been greatly mutilated, at various periods, since its erection. The whole choir* comprehends four pillars on each side; two of them clustered, and two round, the latter of which are cut in a spiral form. The roof was re- paired, or rather new vaulted, by prior Horton, who acceded in the year 1289 ; it is of elegant Gothic work, the ribs of the arches terminating in points, ornamented with roses; the fillets pierced in roses and crosses; some of the centre roses are singular : the one next the organ containing a human figure, with three round balls in an apron. From the altar rails, eastward, the whole w ork appears nearly of the same date ; and by the architecture of this part it seems that the building originally terminated here, and was opened farther eastward to form a connection with the east transept. * Mr. Ebdon, an architect, brother to the late Organist, published two excellent Views of the choir of this church. AND ITS ENVIRONS* 29 or chapel of llie nine altars. Tliis chapel which ter-- minates the cathedral eastward, is entered from the side aisles by a descent of several steps ; its length is 130 feet, and its breadth, from the skreen to the high altar, 51 feet. This portion of the church received its name from nine altars, which were erected beneath the windows on the east side, and dedicated to various saints previous to the Reformation.—** These altars,'' says an ancient writer, *' had their several skreens and covers of wainscot over-head ; having likewise between every altar a very fair and large petition of wainscot, all varnished over with fine branches and flowers, and other imagery work, containing the several lockyers and ambiries for the safe keeping of the vestments and ornaments belonging to the altar, with three or four little amberies in the wall, for the same use and pur- pose." This chapel has generally been allowed to haVe been the work of a later age than the body of the cathedral. All the windows are narrow, lofty and sharply-arched ; in the centre, at the top, is a large circular window, called St. Catherine's window ; and on the outside of this part of the fabric are two pro- jections, in which are the statues of a bishop and a prior. On the octangular tower, at the west angle of this chapel, is the memorable basso-relievo, representing the events which occasioned the cathedral to be founded on this spot. According to the legend, the monks on the removal of St. Cuthbert's remains from Ripon, were directed by a vision to Dunholme ; (a place they were then unacquainted with,) but while travelling M tnTY of DURHAM^ through the country^ a woman in search of a strayed- cow was informed in their hearing that she would find it in Dunhohne, whither they immediately accompanied their female guide. The figures of the cow, the woman, and another person, appeal* in a recess of the stone** work ; they were re-sculptured a few years ago, by which their original forms have been somewhat al- tered* The great tower, or lantern, is stipported by clusters of columlis, rising to the springing of the groins ; the great arch springing from them is crowned by an open gallery of communication round the inside of the lan- tern : the space from the gallery to the window is fdled with rich compartments, which, with the window itselfj are well imagined : groined arches form the termination of the lantern; and when viewed from below, the magnitude and grandeur of its several parts are ex* tremely striking. Immediately behind the skreen, on a level with the choir, is the chapel called the Feretory, where the gorgeous shrine of St. Cuthbert was anciently depo- sited. This shrine which was once one of the richest in Britain,* is now stripped of eVery ornament ; and the * In 1255, " Henry III. beinge in tlieise partes, visited St. Cuthbert, (as they call it) and while he was at his devocions, a courtyer whyspered in his eare, that dyvers byshops of his had hydden much treasure in St. Cuthbert's tombe. The kinge nmde shorte, and openinge the tombe, found it to be even soe ; Whereupon he devised to borrowe the same, least they should AND ITS feNVmoNS. 25 ^nly marks x)f its former reputation are to he found in the impressions worn in the stone flooring, by the feet of the Numerous pilgrims who visited it) during the ages of superstition. The remains of St. Cuthbert are said to have been deposited here, in a *' chest, well fortified with naylfes and leather^" but were afterwards enclosed in a marbl« sepulchre, "which \vas defaced and plundered by Henry VIII. who ordered the remains of St. Cuthbert to be buried in the ground, under the place where his shrine was exalted ; in the centre of the floor, is a large blue stone, under which the saint is supposed to rest. It is related in Hegge's Legend, that, previous to the removal of the body of the saint, by prior Turgot, lie, " with some of his brethren, detormined to open the tomh, with intent to shew his body to the people if they found it entire. Att night, therefore, they mett at his sepulchre, and reverently taking off the stone, they found a chest well fortified w ith nayles and lea- ther, and in it another, wrapt in cloth thrice double, in which they found the booke of the Evangelists, which had fallen into the sea; a little silver altar, a goblet of pure gold, with an onyx stone, and an ivor;^' comb; lastly, opening the third chest, they found the body of the saint (which the grave in so many years had not digested,) lying upon the right side, to give charge hurt with profanation of tlie holy reliqutSs : But Purts tompkneth, that they ivtre never halfe payed againc." Lambard's Topogiaphifcal & Historical Die. p. 80» D '20 CITY OP DtJRHAM, room to the rest of the reliques : for, iu tlie sam0 coffyn were the hones of the venerahle Bede, the head of St* Oswakl, part of the bones of Aidanus, Eadfrid, and Ethelwold, bishops of Lindisfarne ; all which rehques they placed with due reverence in other parts of the church; and laying St. Cuthbert on his backy they placed St.Oswald's head between his hands. At the day- of his translation, Ranul[)hiis, the bishop published in his sermon to the people, the incorrnption of St. Cuthbert's body, which was flexible, and now might plead prescription with the grave to be immortaL And thus in great solemnity, they enshrined him beneath the high altar, in the presence of the abbot of St. Alban's, the abbot of St. Marie's, in York, the abbot of St. Germain's, and prior Turgot, with thousands of people, spectators of the miracle." In Davies's An^ cient liights and IVIonuments, &c. the following tale of the incorruptibility of St. Cuthbert's body is also preserved : " The sacred shrine of holy St. Cuthbert was defaced at the visitation which Dr. Lee, Dr. Henley, and Mr, Blithman, held at Durham, for the subverting such monuments, in the lime of Henry the Eight, at the suppression of the Abbeys. There were found mjiny worthy and goodly jewels, but especially one precious stone, which, by the estimate of those then visitors, and their skilful lapidaries, was of value suflicient to ransom a prince. After the spoil of his ornaments and jewels, coming near unto his body, thinking to have found nothing but dust and bones^ and finding the chest that he lay in very strongly AND ITS ENVIRONS. 217 bound with iron, the goldsmith, taking a great forge hammer of a smith, broke the said chest ; and when they had opened it, they found him lying whole, incor- rupt, with his face bare, and his beard as it were of a fortnight's growth, and all his vestments about him as he was accostomed to say mass, and his met wand of gold lying by him.* When the goldsmith perceived he had broken one of his legs, as he broke open the chest, he was troubled at it, and cried, * Alas ! I have * The priors of the house of Durham were accustomed in ancient time, to be buried in their boots, and wound in their cowls by the barber, as the monks used to be buried. The dead prior was carried out of his lodgings in the priory, to the cham- ber in the infirmary, called The dead man's chamber, there to remain a certain time. At night he was carried into a chapel opposite to that chamber door, called St. Andrew's chapel, and was watched all that night by the children of the almery, reading David's Psalms over him ; and two monks either of kindred or kindness, were appointed to sit all night at his feet, mourning for him. In the morning he was carried into the chapter-house, where the same solemn service was performed for him, which the monks had at tlieir burial j thence he was carried through the parlour into the centry-garth to be buried, where every prior lay under a fine marble stone : and the monks and barber buried him with a little chalice of silver, other metal, or wax, which was laid upon his breast within the coffin, and his blue bed was held over him by four monks 'till he was buried, which the barber had for his pains for making the grave and burying him, as he had for the monks. Afterwards the priors were buried within the church, and not in the centry-garth, in the same order and habit, with the mitre and all other furniture, as their predecessors w'ere buried before them in the centry-garth. — Ancient Customs of the Church lit Durham. 2« CITY OF DURHAM, broken oue of his legs.' Dr. Henley hearing Mm say so, called upon him, and bid him cast down his bones ; whereto the other answered that he could not get them asunder; for the sinews and the skin held them so that they would not come asunder. Then Dr. Lee stepped up to see whether it were so, and turning about spake in Latin to Dr. Henley that he was entire ; yet Dr. Henley seemed not to give credit to his words, but still cried to have his bones cast down. Then Dr. Lee made answer, * If you will not believe me, come up yourself and see him.' Whereupon Dr. Henley did step up, and handled him, anel found that ho lay whole, then he commanded them to take him dow n ; and so it happened, contrary to their expectation, that not only his body was whole, and uncorrupted, but alsa the vestments wherein his body lay, and Avherein he was accustomed to say mass, were safe, fresh, am! not consumed. "^ " Before them lay a glittering stere, The Abbey's plundered wealth, The garmcMt of cost, and the bowJ embost. And the wassail cup of health. And riches still from St. Cudbert's shrine. The chalice, the alni'ry, and pix. The image where gold and where ivoiy twine,. And the shatter'd crucifix. And tlic visitors three, with wicked glee, Sit feasting full and high ; And still as they drink, they sit and think Of the devil and king He-ner-y." The Galilee, or St. Mary's chapel, is at the west end of the cadiedral ; the entrance is bv two doors from AND ITS ENVIRONS. 29 the end of the side aisles of the nave. It was built for a place of worship for the females, who, as we have already mentioned, were not allowed to enter the cathedral further than the blue cross. This chapel is divided into five aisles, by four rows of pillars. The north aisle is now walled up, and was used as a repo- sitory for wills, where the register-office was kept till 1822, when a suitable building w^as erected on the west side of the Palace Green, on the site of the old Courts. In the middle aisle was the Virgin Mary's altar, close to which is the tomb of Cardinal Langley, who died in the year 1438 ; in the next aisle is a large marble, wdiich covers the remains of the venerable Bede. The breadth of the Galilee from east to west is 50 feet, and its length 80 feet. The south side is now stalled and benched, and is used as the bishop's consistory court. In different parts of the cathedral are some beauti- fully ornamented door-ways, in the Norman style, two of which have been thus described in the account published by the Society of Antiquaries : — The pro- portion of the door entering into the north cloister, from the west end of the south aisle, is very striking, and it has much the air of a Roman arch. On each side the opening are three columns ; the two exterior ones are united in an uncommon mode. They are covered with diagonal mouldings, which by meeting at the union of the column, form diamond pannels. The single column on the left has lozenged pannels, placed alternately, and each filled with a flower. That oa D 3 30 CITY OF Dl RHAM, tlie riglit has larger diamoiuls filled with fiowcrp, anti divided by beads : the oriiaiuents of both the capitals are varied. The architrave is divided.into three parts : the first and second have the diagonal or zig-zag; the exterior division is of uncommon form ; it consists of a sort of semi-octagonal band. The two oblique faces are hollowed like cavettos ; the middle face is flat, and enriched with leaves. Over all are laid large pateras, ornamented with flowers and foliage." The second door, Avhich opens from the north side of the cloisters into the east end of the south aisle, in its decorations is equally rich and singular witli the former. *' The three columns on each side stand on a surbase : their shafts are plain, and their capitals of rather a simple form ; they are detached from the wall in the manner of the early English style ; within them is aflat ground, in which is the opening of the door-way. This ground is highly enriched with an uncommon variety of the diagonal moulding, edged with beads and roses in the pannels. An unaccountable irregularity of design occurs on the left hand of the arch : the architrave is divided into four parts; the first a cavetto, with de- tached roses; the second is a bold convex, covered with a double fret, beaded; the third is also convex, with a turretted band, also beaded; the exterior is likewise convex, and resembles a bundle of twigs, with the young shoots or stalks of leaves cut of short; these twigs are also beaded. This ornament seems, by some small parts yet remaining, to have been con- tinued on each side over other arches," AND ITS ENVIRONS. 31 i^Iost of llio beautiful tombs and brasses, which covered the remains of many distinguished prelates and other eminent persons, which have been interred in this cathedral, have been swept away by the hands of sacrilege and fanaticism. To the west end of the nave are several beautiful marble monuments and tablets with inscriptions to the memory of some of the most distinguished members of the chapter, who have died within the last 70 years. On the door within the porch, which forms the principal entrance to this cathedral, is a curious metallic ring, or knocker, sculptured with a terrific visage in bold relief, and well executed, with which persons claiming sanctuary, were accustomed to alarm the inmates of the cathedral in the night time : for " the abbey church, the church yard, and all the circuit thereof, was," says Mr. Hutchinson, " in ancient times, before the house was supprest, a sanctuary for all manner of men, thiit committed any great offence, or any prisoners who had broken out of prison^ and fled to the church door, knocking to have it opened ; also certain men lay in two chambers over the north door for that purpose, that, whenever such offenders came, and knocked, they instantly let them in, at any hour of the night; and ran quickly to the Galilee bell, and tolled it, that whosoever heard it might know tliat some had taken sanctuary. When the prior had notice thereof, he sent orders for them to keep within the sanctuary ; that is, within the church and churchyard, and that everv one should have a j^own of black cloth> 32 CITY OF DURHAM, with a yellow cross, called St. Cuthbert's cross, at the left shoulder ; that every one might see the previlege granted at St. Cuthbert's shrine, for offenders to fly unto for succour, and safeguard of their lives, till they could obtain their prince's pardon : and that they should lie within the church, on a grate made only for that purpose, adjoining to the gallery south door. They had likewise meat, drink, and bedding, and other necessa- ries, at the cost of the house, for 37 days, being only such as were necessary for such offenders, until the prior and convent could get them conveyed out of the diocese. This privilege was confirmed not only by king Guthrid, but by king Alurcd hkewise." On the south side of the church are the cloisters, which were erected between the years 1389 and 1438, by Bishop Skirlaw and Cardinal Langley, at the ex- pence of 8381. 17s. 6d.; the former contributing 6001. and the latter the remainder. These cloisters form a quadrangle of 147 feet, having 11 windows in each front, which were formerly glazed, but are now open, the tracery of which have been repaired, in the pointed style, some years since. The ceiling, which is of Irish oak, was originally ornamented with emblazoned shields of the arms of various persons who have contributed to enrich the church by their benefactions : scarcely any of these embellishments, however are now dis- cernible. Adjoining the cloisters is the Chapter House, which was originally built by Bishop Geoffry Rufus, about the year 1136, in the form of a theatre ; its internal AND ITS ENVmONS. 33 arrangements, are said, however to bear a striking resemblance to the most ancient Christian churches ; and against the east end was the stone chair, in which the new bishops were formerly installed. This building lias been nearly pulled down during the late repairs of the cathedral, and a larger room has been erected on its site. On the south side was the old Frater House, or Monks Hall, which was converted into an elegant library for the dean and chapter, by Dean Sudbury, about the year 1680. Besides several records and curiosities, which are deposited here, are two copies of Magna Charter, the one dated 12th of November, 1216, the other 11th February, 1224, (from which Judge Blackstone made his Collations ;) there is like- wise a manuscript copy of the Bible-, in four volumes, folio, 600 years old : and Bede's five books of History, of nearly the same date. On the west side of the cloisters is the old Dormi- tory, under which are the Treasury and Song School, in the former of which, according to Mr. Hutchinson, are lodged, about 90 royal charters and grants, 52 deeds by nobles and barons, and 266 by inferior gentry ; about 131 by popes, bishops, priors, tic. and 130 other original deeds and copies, altogether 670. From the cloisters is a passage leading to a spacious oblong square, called the College, in which are the Deanery and Prebendal Houses; the latter, being partly modern, and well-built, have a respectabk 34 CITY OF DURHAM, appearance. The Deanery was formerly the prior's lodgings, and the kitchen, which was originally the kitchen of the monastery, is very curious, being of an octangular form, vaulted with a cupola light, the chimney concealed, and greatly resembling the abbot's kitchen at Glastonbury. At the upper end of the square is a neat fountain, which was repaired and beautified in the year 1791, and supplies the neigh- bouring families with water, which is brought in pipes from El vet Moor. At the lower end of the square is the gateway, above which is St. Helen's Chapel, not now used, and the old Exchequer, where all the rents reserved in the chapter leases are made payable. This chapel was built by prior Castell, about the year 1515, Behind the west side is a pleasant terrace, called the Prebends' Walk, from whence is a delightful view of the Wear and its banks. In the year 1778, upon a survey of the cathedral, it was found to be in great want of repair, when the dean and chapter immediately began the costly work, which has been continued with little intermission, to the present time. The whole north front, has been chisselled over, and the decayed parts restored; the greater part of the windows have been repaired or put in anew, and new glazed : new sculptures have sup- plied the places of the old ones, and two new stone spires have been placed upon the towers, at the north end of the eastern transept : the western towers, on which were formerly two large wooden spires, covered AND ITS ENVIRONS. ^5 \vitli lead, and which were taken down the latter end of the last century, have undergone a thorough repair, and are now finished with elegant new decorations. The east end has likewise undergone a thorough alte- ration. Of late years the expence of this excellent undertaking has amounted to a sum not less than from 1500 to 20001. annually, and by means of a judicious appropriation of the means provided for this purpose, an income has been secured sufficient to defray the charges of future repair* The dean and chapter have evinced their munificence by an annual donation of three hundred pounds in aid of this great undertaking, which reflects the highest honour on that venerable and opulent body. Early prayers are read here every morning in summer at half past six o'clock, and seven in winter ; the choir service begins every morning at ten, and at four in the afternoon. This see, which is deemed the richest bishopric in England, is valued in the king's books at2,8211.1s.5^d. but it is computed to be worth annually little short of 20,0001. Henry VIII. granted a new foundation- charter in the year 1541, directing that the cathedral church, instead of being dedicated as before to the *' Blessed Mary the Virgin, and St. Cuthbert the Bishop," should thenceforth bear the name of the " Cathedral Church of Christ and blessed Mary the Vir- gin;" and likewise directing that it should be governed by a dean and twelve prebendaries. The establishment, at present, besides the dean and preljendaries, consists a6 CITY OF DURHAM, of two archdeacons, (who are two of the prebendaries,) eight minor canons, eight singing men, ten singing boys, a master of the choristers, eight alms-men, two masters of the grammar school, eighteen scholars, two vergers, and one porter. In the cathedral church yard which ranges on the north side of the building, amongst numerous other memorials of departed merit, is an altar -tomb to the memory of the respected author of the Economy of Human Life, and other esteemed works ; Avith this inscription, composed by the late Joseph Spence, A.M. Professor of Modern History at Oxford : — IF YOU HAVE ANY RESPECT FOR UNCOMMON INDUSTRY AND MERIT, REGARD THIS PLACE ! IN WHICH ARE INTERRED THE REMAINS OF Mr. ROBERT DODSLEY, WHO AS AN AUTHOR, RAISED HIMSELF MUCH ABOVE WHAT COULD HAVE BEEN EXPECTED FROM ONE IN HIS RANK OF LIFE, AND WITHOUT LEARNED EDUCATION I AND WHO, AS A MAN, WAS SCARCE EXCEEDED BY ANY, IN INTEGRITY OF HEART, AND PURITY OF MANNERS, AND CONVERSATION. HE LEFT THIS LIFE FOR A BETTER SEPTEMBER 23d, 1764, IN THE 61st YEAR OF HIS AGE= X'Sn tTS ENVIRONS. ^7 A LiST of the Bishops of Durhum,from thefoim^ Nation of its Cathedral to the present day, with the respective dates of their promotion^ Anno Doi», 1 Aldune ^ - - w . . 990 2 Eadmilnd 1020 3 Eadred - ^ . - - - 1041 4 Egelric -.---. 1042 5 Egelwin ^ - - - . ^ i056 6 Walch«r ------ 1072 7 William de Carilepho - - 1080 8 Ralph Flambard - - - - 1099 ^ Galfrid Rufus - - - - 1133 'tlie see vva^ usurped by Win. Cumin for nearly tliree yekYS^ 10 VYilliam de St. Barbai'a - 1143 11 Hugh Pudsey - - - - 1153 12 Philip de Poicteu - - - 1197 13 Richard de Marisco - - 1217 14 Richard Poor - - - - 1228 15 Nicholas de Farnham - - 1239 16 Waiter de Kirkham - - 1249 17 Robert Sticliill =- - ^ ^ 1260 18 Robert de Insula - - - 1274 19 Anthony Beak - - - - 1283 20 Richard Kellow - - - - 1311 21 Lewis Beaumont - - - 1317 22 Richard de Bury - - - 1333 23 Thomas Hatfield >^ - - 1345 24 John Fordham - - ^ ^ 1 381 K CITY OF DURHAM, 25 Walter Skirlaw - - - - 1388 26 Thomas Langley - - - - 1406 27 Robert Nevill - - - - 1438 28 Lawrence Booth - - - - 1457 29 William Dudley - . . - 1470 80 John Sherwood - - - - 1483 31 32 i?ir»V»Qvrl T7rvv _ _ 1494 1502 XXIClldlU X"OX - William Severus _ - >. 33 Christopher Bainbrigg - - 1507 34 Thomas Ruthall - - . - 1508 35 Thomas Wolsey - - _ - 1623 80 Cuthbert Tunstall - . - 1530 37 James Pilkington _ _ - 1560 38 Richard Barnes - - . - 1577 39 Matthew Hutton - _ . 1589 40 Tobias Matthew - - - . 1595 41 William James - _ _ - 1600 42 Richard Neile - - - - 1G17 43 George Monteign _ _ _ 1620 44 John Howson - - - 1628 45 Thomas Morton - - - - 1632 4g 47 T 1 /^ ' 1660 1674 Jolin i_/Osin - - - - - Nathaniel Lord Crewe 48 William Talbot - . - - 1721 49 Edward Chandler - . - 1730 50 Joseph Butler . - ^ 1750 51 Richard Trevor - - - - 1752 52 John Egertou - - - 1771 53 Thomas Thurlow _ _ - 1787 54 Hon. Slmte Barrin gton 1791 A^D ITS ENVIRONS. 39 PARISH CHURCHES IN DURHAM. Independently of the cathedral, Durham contains six parish churches; viz. St. Nicholas, St. Oswald. St. Mary-le-Bow, St. Giles, St. Margaret, and St. Mary the Less. ST. NICHOLAS. This church is a very ancient plain structure, situated at the lower end of the market place. In the year 1768, the front and steeple were chiselled over, and a large new window was put in at the east end. It consists of a nave and side aisles, with a square tower standing at the west end angle. Here are seats for the body corporate, and various city companies. The interior of this church has lately undergone a thorough repair. There is a gallery for the children of the United Blue Coat and Sunday Schools, erected at the expence of the late Sir John Eden, hart, upon the front of which is emblazoned his paternal coat of arms. In the old register book of this parish, under the year 1592, is the following remarkable entry, " Simson, Erington, Fetherstone, Fenwicke, and Lancaster, were banged for being Egyptians.^* In another part of the register the same event is recorded in these words, *' 1592. Simson, Erington, Fether- stone, Fenwicke, and Lancaster, Egyptiaci, suspensi fueriint anno siipradicto, August 8," The morning iO CITY OF DURHAM, service on Sundays commences at eleven o*clock, and the lectures in the evening at half-past six. ST. OSWALD. This church, which is situated at the top of the street of New Elvet, occupying a fine elevated situation on the eastern hanks of the river Wear, is a very ancient structure, remarkable for its vaulted roof of wood, constructed as is supposed, by Wm. Catton, who was tlie vicar in the year 1412. It has a neat gallery. The vicarage house is pleasantly situated near the church yard, on the banks of the river. The service on Sundays commences at half past ten o'clock in the morning, and half past two in the afternoon. ST. MARY-LE-BOW, or BOUGH. This church is situated on the east side of the North •Bailey ; it is built of hewn stone, and without aisles. It was opened for divine service in the year 1685. In tliis church the bishops and archdeacons* visitations are usually held. In September, 1792, an organ was put up in this church by the Rev. Edward Parker, the rector. According to tradition, this church stands on the same spot where St. Cuthbert's remains were iodged in a tabernacle of boughs and wands, Avhen they were first brought by the monks to Durham. The service on Sundays commences at eleven o'clock in the morning, and two in the afternoon. AND Its ENVIRONS. 4X ST. GILES. This church is apparently of remote origin ; it having no aisles, and much resembling the old church at Jarrow, being narrow, long, and lofty. In the chancel of tliis church is a recumbent figure, cut in wood, traditionally said to represent one of the Heath family, who was buried here in the year 1591. It represents a male figure in complete armour, the hands elevated, and the head resting upon an helmet, with a bear's paw for the crest ; at the feet these words hodie michi. The service on Sundays commences at eleven in the morning, and three in the afternoon. — The beautiful prospect from St. Giles's church yard has been thus described by Hutch- inson. ** The traveller who is conducted to this church should be admitted at the north door, and depart from the south door, where a noble prospect opens to the view, too extensive for a picture, and too rich for description. The inadequate ideas which language can convey are to be lamented by the reader who has a taste for rural beauties, and the elegance of landscape. The church of St. Giles stands upon very elevated ground, open to the south, where the view is unobstructed. In front, the meadow grounds form a deep descent to the river; on one wing closed by the wood called Pelaw wood, on the other by the buildings of the street. At the foot of the hill the river Wear forms a beautiful canal, almost a mile in length, terminated by Elvet bridge on the right, and by the wooded enclosures of Old Durham on the left. On the opposite shore is tjiii 5.a 42 CltY OF DURHAM, race-ground, consisting of an extended tract of level meads, from whence by a gradual ascent rise the two Elvets ; the street of Old Elvet running parallel, the other obliquely, bordered with gardens, and terminated by Elvet church, a handsome structure. The channel of the river lying between New Elvet and the Bailies, affords an agreeable break or change in the objects; the sloping gardens being seen over the buildings of Elvet, softened to the eye with that pleasing tint which the distance produces. On the brink of the ascent stand the Bailies, object rising gradually above ol)ject, guarded with the remains of the town-wall, and crowned with the cathedral churcb, which in this view presents the north and east fronts, like the mitre which binds the temples of its prelate, giving tlie noblest supreme ornament to the capital of the principality. To the right, Elvet bridge receives the stream, and intercepts a further view of the progress of the river ; over it, tier above tier, rise the buildings of Sadler street, and the battlements and octagonal tower of the castle ; the trophies of civil jurisprudence wearing the aspect of old secular authority, and the frowns of feudal power. Between tlie chief objects, the cathedral and castle, on the nearer back ground. South street with its hanging gardens, make a line curvature ; behind which Brandon mount, with a spot of high land, extending towards Auckland, form the horizon : further to the right, from the banks of the river, rise the buildings of the market place, crowding the tower of the church, from Avhenco ,lhe .streets of Clayputh iuid (iilesgute ex>ud. Thu.s ASTi ITS EWIRONS.- 43 far description has succeeded without much faiilterii>g; but in the other divisions of the scene it is faint, and totally inadequate : whoever would know the rest must come and view it. Over the meadows, in the centre, a precipice rises, nearly 100 perpendicular feet in height, called Maiden Castle Scar, or ClitF; the steep sides of the hill to the right and left are covered with a forest of old oaks,* and the foot of the cliff is washed by the river, whose stream appears again at this point. The lofty ridge of hills cloathed with oaks, stretching away from a zig-zag figure ; at the most distant part of which the great southern road, up the new inclosed grounds of Elvet Moor, is seen climbing the hill for near a mile, beyond which very distant eminences form a blue tinged horizon. To the left of Maiden Castle Cliff you look upon a rich valley, highly culti- vated, extending nearly five miles in length, and two in width, bending to the south-west, through which the river winds its siher stream in the figure of an S.. Hanging m oods shut in each side of the nearer vale> where are, finely disposed, the pleasant village of Shincliff, its bridge of three arches, and Houghall house. The extreme part of the valley is closed by the woods of ShinclilF, Butterby, and Croxdale, form- ing an elegant amphitheatre ; over these rise distant hills, lined out with enclosures, giving the yellow and * These trees have been felled, and the ground on which-, they stood, re-planted. 44 CITY OF DURHAM, brown tint to the landscape over the richer coloured woods. The whole finished with an elevated horizon, on the wings of which are scattered the villages of Ferryhiil and Merrington; the tower of Merrington church forming a beautiful and lofty obelisk. One of the greatest excellencies of this landscape is, that the ground rises gradually before you, and just such a distance is maintained as preserves all the objects dis- tinct; not like the landscapes painted by the Flemish and Dutch masters. To the left you look down upon Old Durham house, its terraces and hanging gardens, with a fine bend of cultivated country stretching away through another opening of the hills, towards the east, bounded by the high woods of Quarrington, and the cliffs of Coxhoe lime kilns ; more rustic than the other views, and being in simple nature, affords a pleasing variety to the eye of the man of taste, who stands (if we may be allowed the extravagant expression) an thii, enchanted ground" ST. MARGARET. In the point where Soutli-street separates from Grossgate, on an elevated situation, stands the church or chapel of St. Margaret, the ascent to which is by two deep flights of steps.. This church has undergone great alterations since its first erection; the architecture being various. The altar is ascended to by three steps, from which the chancel is five paces m length, bAing eight paces, in. AND ITS ENVIRONS. 4|i w id til ; the south side is laid open by a wide pointed arch, the whole extent of the chancel forming a spacious porch ; the north side is opened half way by a small arch. The body of the church has a centre, and two side aisles ; is in length seventeen paces, and of equal width. The south aisle is formed by three short round pillars, supporting circular arches ; the north aisle by three long small pillars with circular arches; this church has a low square tower. The service on Sundays commences at eleven o'clock in the morning, and three in the afternoon. ST. MARY THE LESS. This ohurch, which is in the South Bailey, is but a mean edifice, considering its antiquity, and that it is situated within the walls of the ancient city. It is in the deanery of Easington. The advowson being part of the possessions of the Earl of Westmoreland, on his attainder came to the crown. The service on S unday s commences at eleven o'clock in the morning, and three in the afternoon. In addition to the places of worship belonging to the Establishment,* there are two Roman Catholic * Besides the churches already mentioned, the ruins of a small edifice called Magdalen Chapel, are still visible in a garden on the north side of Gilesgate. They are small, and so much delapidated, that it is almost impossible to form any idea of what the hnildin" was in its oridiial state. 4^ CITY OF DURHAM, Chapels in Old Elvet, one of wliich belongs to tli« sect of Jesuits, 2in Independent Chapel, and a Quakers* Meeting House in Clay path, and a Wesley an Methodist Chapel in Old Elvet. THE CASTLE. Before the cathedral is a large open area, called the Place or Palace Green, formerly crowded with houses, which were all removed before the year 1109, from whence the spectator is at once presented with a view of the cathedral and castle : the latter, which is on the north side, and is the residence of the bishop when he visits Durham. It is generally allowed that the first building of this castle is to be attributed to William the Conqueror, who, in the year 1072, ordered a for- tress to be erected here, at once to secure the governor of this province from tumults and insurrections, and ^'^ also to protect the bishop and his church. A part of the castle was formerly destroyed by fire, but was soon after repaired by bishop Pudsey, who was elected in the year 1153. Bishop Hatfield about the year 1348 made great additions to it by erecting the great hall, and also the constable's hall; but this room, which is described as having " two princely seats, one at each end," was altered by bishop Fox about the year 1494, Avho took away that at the lower end, and converted that part into a kitchen and stew- ard's appartments; he had likewise begun several other alterations, when he was translated. Bishop AND ITS ENVIRONS. 4t Tuiistall, elected in tlie year 1530, built the gallery and chapel adjoining to it; he also erected the gateway and tower, and flanked it with a strong wall on either side ; the bason or water conduit, which supplies the castle with water, was likewise built by him. Bishop Neile about the year 1619, enlarged the windows, and expended 3,0001. in the reparation of this fabric. In the great rebellion, this castle was sold, on the second of May, 1649, to Thomas Andrews, lord mayor of London, who so miserably defaced a great part of it, that it was some time before it could be made habitable for bishop Cosins, who almost renovated it, by making many considerable alterations and additions. Bishop Crewe greatly adorned it by putting in several new windows, enlarging the chapel, and re-building part of the tower, which had fallen down. Bishop Butler, in the year 1752, began to re-build a great part of the north wall, and put in several new gothic windows, which w ere finished by his successor, bishop Trevor, who made considerable additions. Under the direction of the present bishop, (Barrington) several improve- ments have been made> and a most beautiful archway in the gallery, supposed to have been slopped up several centuries, again opened. In several of the apartments, and on the staircase, are some paintings ; but the principal ornaments of this description have been removed to the palace at Bishop Auckland. The most ancient part of this structure is the keep, or tower, which stands upon the top of an artificial mount, 44 feet from the level of the Palace Green, 4^ CtTV or DIRHAM» aud is an ill formed octagon of irregular sides i iii diameter) in the widest pointj is 63 feet 6 inches, and in the narrowest, 61 feet. It contained four tiers of apartments, exclusive of the vaults* Nothing now remains but the mount, vaults, and a part of the shell* The angles are supported by buttresses ; and a parapet^ defended by an embattled breast work, has run round the summit of the whole building, but the upper part having become very ruinous, was ordered to be taken down by bishop Thurlow, in the year 1789. Round the mount are three terraces, which command a beau- tiful view of the city and its environs, and also a con- siderable extent of the adjacent country . On the east> and contiguous to the keep, stood till 1820, the great north gateway, which was erected by bishop Langley, and was till that time used as the county gaoL The building has been removed, and on the site, at the west side of the old gateway, is erected an elegant building for a Subscription liibrary and News Room» On the opposite side, shops have been built, over which is a spacious room, used as an Assembly room, and on particular occasions, appropriated as the hall of the provincial grand master of the Free and accepted Masons for the county of Durhami EXCHEQUER, BISHOP'S LIBRARY, &t. On the west side of the l*alace Green is a strongs square stone building, called The Exchequer, in which AND ITIS ENVIROl^S. 4d iha Court of Cliancery is held ; in it ate «flices tot llie auditor, cursitor, prothonotary, county clerk, clerk of the peace, register, &c. : it was erected by bishop Neville (whose arms on the front of it are still visible) about the year 1450. Adjoining is the bishop^s Library^ erected by bishop Cosins, and a little further distant is the liegistry office, built by public subscription 5 Upwards of on-e-half of the expense of which was con^ tributed by the present bishop (Barrington.) OKAMMAR SCHOOL> c% ALMS-HOUSES. On the north side of the cathedral yard, is the CrRAiviMAR ScHOOL*, and the master's house. The school is coeval with the foundation of th« cathedral * By the 28th chapter of thie Statutes, it is ordained, th4t there shall be constantly maintained eighteen poor boys of apt parts, whose friends are not able to give them education, bui not to be admitted until they have learned to read and write^ and in the Dean's judgment, are sufficiently grounded in the first rudiments of grammar ; after admission, to b-e maintained by the church, until they completely understand grammar, and "can read and write Latin, for which they shall be allo\Ved /out years, or with the Dean's assent,/re, at the most : none shall be admitted above Jifteen years of age. The choristers shall not bft limited to that age, but may be admitted scholars if they are fit> in case they have proved themselves particularly serviceable td the choir, and skilful in music, they are to be preferred before 'others. If any one is found dull, and without a taste for litera^ ture, the Dean shall remove him, and appoint another in his Voom, " ne velutifucus apummelle devoretj" The upper master is to be learned in the Greek and Latift languages, of good fame, sound faith, and pious life. Hr shall F 50 CITY OF DURHAM, i church by king Henry the VIII. on the 12th of Mi^y, 1541. The present head master is the Rev. Johit Carr, M . A. who takes a great number of pupils. And the sub-master is the Rev. James Raine. The present celebrity of this school, sufficiently bespeaks the care and ability of the masters. On the east side of the Palace Green, are the alms- houses, founded by bishop Cosins, in the year IGGG, for four poor men, and four poor women. At each end of the hospital, is a school house,* of the foundation of bishop Langley. THE BANKS, BRIDGES, .^c. From the Palace Green is an avenue leading to the public walks called The Banhs, which Avere made, and are kept in repair by the Dean and Chapter. " These celebrated m alks," says Mr. Warner in his Northern Tour, *' accompany the bending of the stream, and command several interesting peeps at the city, and its not only teach the eighteen boys, hut also all others that shall resort to his school. The under master shall have the like character. They shall teach such books and rules, and follow such order as tlie Dean and Chapter (with the Bishop's assent) shall prescribe. If they prove negligent, or incapable of teaching, after a third admo- nition, to be displaced. They arc also to be su-orn faithfully to perform their duty. By Chapters 31, 32, and 33, certain allowances are allowed tc the masters and scholars, for commons, vestments, and stipends. * The charity appropriated towards the maintenance of these' sehools, is now transferred to the Blue Coat Charity Schools. H AND ITS ENVIRONS. 51 n«gust ornaments, the castle and cathedral. The Banks, rocky and abrupt on one hand, and sloping to the river on the other, darkened by a solemn depth of shade, sequestered and retired, in the immediate neighbourhood of a busy scene of society, afford a retreat of the most agreeable nature. The variety of the scenes which they open also, is remarkable : deep glades, and solemn dells ; scarred rock, and verdant lawn; sylvan glades and proud castellated edifices. From the elegant New Bridge, tlie last mentioned feature is seen to great effect; the castle and catliedral blend their battlements and turrets together, and rise with inconceivable majesty from the sacred groves which clothe their rocky foundations. The combination here of trees and buildings, water and rock, home sjlvan scenery and fine distance, is at once beautiful and grand." Immediately contiguous to the New Bridge, stands a neat cottage, the residence of the celebrated Polish dwarf. Count Boruwlaski, whose Memoirs, written by himself, have lately been ushered into public notice. A few yards past the Banks Mill, on the west side of the Wear, a very powerful chalybeate spring issues from a fissure in the rock. It is somewhat extraordinary that this spring has hitherto remained unnoticed by the Tourists who have described the adjoining scenery. The well is much frequented, and has in many cases proved highly efficacious. The water in colour and taste resembles that of the cele- 3d CJTY OF DURHAM, brated chalybeate springs of Harrogate and Scarb©- rough. The New Bridge, meHtioned by Mr. Warner, is an elegant structure, erected between the years 177*2 and 1777, at the expense of the Dean and Chapter, from the designs of Mr. Geo. Nicholson, then their ar- chitect. The arches are semi-circular, Avith a balus- traded battlement. The old bridge, which stood at some distance higher up the, river, and m as only of sufficient width for the crossing of foot passengers and horses, was carried away by a dreatlful flood, tliat commenced on the afternoon of the sixteenth of No- yember, 1771, and continued to rise till about one o*clock the next morning. By that time the body of water had become so immense, that the arches of l^het bridge, being partially choaked up with rubbishy would not admit of the water flowing ofl'; and its weight forced down a long wall nearly adjoining. The torrent, then rushing forward with increasing velocity, acquired such a vast impetus, that scarcely any thing could witlistand its pressure. Four arches of the bridge were swept away, and all the lower buildings of the city, garden walls, &c. either destroyed, or left in a very ruinous condition. AVhen the flood abated, m the course of the day, all the low lands about Houghall, Shincliff*e, &c. were strewed with carcases of drowned cattle, and the hedges covered with corn and hay that had been washed down by the water, which rose eight feet ten inches higher tlian had ever been recorded in. AND ITS ENVIRONS. 53 the annals of Durham. As scarcely any rain had fallen during several days, within many miles of the city, various reasons were assigned for this extraordi- nary inundation ; the most probable one was, that it had been occasioned by a violent and incessant rain, which had deluged the western parts of the county. Besides the New Bridge, there are two others at Durham, called Framwelgate* Bridge, and Elvet Bridge. The former, which is situated at the northern extremity of the city, was erected by bishop Flambard, about the year 1120, and is a very excellent piece of masonry. This bridge has one pier and two clip tic arches of 90 feet span, so flat as to be constructed on the quarter section of a circle, calculated to suit the low shores on each side. A large gateway tower, which formerly stood at the city end of this bridge, was taken down in the year 1760, for the convenience of carriage. Elvet Bridge consists of nine or ten arches ; it was built by bishop Pudsey about the year 1170, and repaired in the time of bishop Fox, who granted an indulgence to all who should contribute to defraying the expence: It was again improved b^ widening it to twice the breadth, in 1806. Upon or * Framwelgate, called in the old evidences, the Borough of Framwelgate, being incorporated with the city of Durham, affords no matter for particular attention ; what is said of the city or Borough of Durham, having immediate relation thereto. It consists of one long street, leading from the bridge towards Newcastle. f3 o4 CITY OF DURHAM, near it were formerly two chapels, dedicated respec- tively to St. James and St. Andrew. On the norlh side of this bridge, was the house of correction, which was erected in the year 1632. Since the New gaol was built, it has been sold, and is now used for differ- ent pm'poses. THE MARKET PLACE. The Market Place of Durham is a spacious square ;; at the foot of which stands the church of St. Nicholas,^ (described in page 30) occupying almost the whole of that side : Sadler-street enters the square at the south east corner. Silver-street at the southwest, Claypathis situate at the north east corner, and a flight of steps leading by the New Place lo the factory house, is on the north west: These are the stairs by which the arch- bishop of York escaped tlie fury of the mob, when he came to Durham to exercise his pretended jmisdiction during the vacancy of the See,^ after the demise of bishop Robert de Insula. In the centre of this square is a pant or fountain of excellent water, which supplies the greatest part of the town : The reservoir is of an octagonal form, and ornamented with a statue of Neptune wliicli was placed there in 1729. In the year 1450, Thomas Billingham, esq. granted to the city for ever, a spring, of water in his manor of Sidgate, with liberty to convey the same by pipes to the market place for public use, at thirtcen-pence a year rent, payable at the feast of AND ITS RNV IRONS. p* St. Martin ; aiitl in default for forty days, the gi-antor and his assigns had power to break up the aqueduct liead, and divert the stream into its ancient course r with a prohibitory clause against any persons making an aqueduct from the fountain, except the grantor and his heirs, to whom power was reserved to lay a string pipe from the reservoir to supply his own Iwuse'^ iit the market place. Near this fountain was a large market cross, erected by Thomas Emmerson, esq. of London, whose arms were placed on the west side, with the date, 1617 ; it had a large pillar in the middle, ornamented with a dial, but becoming ruinous, the corporation ordered it to be taken down in the year 1780, and with the mate- rials was erected a large and handsome piazza, at the bottom of ihe square, where the market for corn,, provisions, &c. is now held. — The market day is on the Saturday. THE TOWN HALL, &c. On the north side of the market place, is theTownhall,. or Tolbooth, which was first erected by bishop Tun- stall, about the year 1555, with apartments behind for public festivals, which he presented to the city of Durham. Whether before bishop Tunstall's time there^ was a Common Hall for the burgesses, is not well ascertained : but there was a Tollhooth in the middle • Tlus Iiouse is now the property of iMr. Mark Jackson, ^ CITY OF DURHAM, of the square, as in other ancient places for the weights and measures: As Chambre tells us, *' A beautiful marble cross which stood in the upper part of the street of Gillygate,in aplace there called the Maid's Harbour, was given to William Wright, of Durham, merchant, at his petition, by Master Ormstrang Scot, Lord of Keepyere, to be set up in Durham market place. That on that occasion the figures of the twelve apostles, of curious workmanship in stone, were repaired and sumptuously gilt ; three figures on each side of the cross in a square. At this time Thomas Spark, elected suffragan bishop by bishop Tunstall, was bishop of Berwick, master of Holy Island, and custos and master of Gretham hospital; at his charge the cross was erected in the market place where an old Tollhooth stood, in which work he expended eight pounds."* In the year 1752, Geo. Bowes esq. repaired and beautified the back room of the present Town Hall, in which are two large and elegant paintings of Charles II. and bishop Crewe. The large room in front, where all the public meetings are held, was taken down and rebuilt in the year 1754. On the top of this building is a cupola. Adjoining the Townhall, is a house called the New Place, and in some records, the Bull's Head : It was part of the possessions of Charles Earl of Westmor- land, and tradition says, was his palace ; perhaps his * Chambre Hist, Dur. What became of this cross is unkndwn AND ITS ENVIRONS. 57 crest was figured on the building, which occasioned it to be denoted by the Bull's Head, or Black Bull. It was purchased by the citizens in 1612, for the purpose of a cloth manufactory. A portion of it is now used as a workhouse. In this place the Charity Schools were held previous to the erection of the new buildings in Claypath. Adjoining to St Nicholas' church, was an old gate- way, called Claypath-gate ; a weak edifice, built with irregular stones, and much mortar: It being adjudged to be a nuisance, was removed in the year 1791. In the street of Claypath, was an ancient chapel , dedicated to St. Thomas the Martyr; but where it stood is unknown. It is described in Randal's MSS. as being ** on the south side of the said street (Clay- path) in St. Nicholas' parish, placed in a chapcl-yard, and having an enclosed M'ay to it from the street," NEW GAOL, &c. The New Gaol, House of Correction, County Court Houses, and Governor's House, are at the head of Old El vet. These extensive buildings, M'hich were commenced in the year 1809, have cost the county upwards of £120,000. The prison is conducted on the system recommended by the Society for encou- raging Prison Discipline. A tread-mill has lately beea fitted up in it for grinding coru^ 58 CITY OF DURHAM, FREE MASON'S LODGE. The fraternity of Free Masons of Durliam, erected in the year 1810, a neat brick building near the Methodist chapel, in Old El vet, where their meetings are usually held. THE BLUE COAT AND SUNDAY SCHOOLS. These buildings are situated on the north side of Claypath; they were built by public subscription, which was begun in May, 1810, when the present Bishop (Dr. Barrington) subscribed £309. 17s. being the pur- chase-money of a piece of ground, upon which they were erected. They were opened for the reception of scholars in January, 1812. The schools are con- ducted upon Dr. Bell's plan; and the number of scholars, boys and girls, amount to upwards of 250, who are all taught gratis. The schools are supported chiefly by voluntary subscriptions. THE INFIRMARY. An Infirmary has been established in Durham, where the sick are admitted without expense ; a spa- cious and convenient building having been erected in the year 1792, for that purpose, on a piece of ground in Allergate, given by Thomas Wilkinson, esq. of Coxhoe. AND ITS ENVIRONS. 59 l^HE THEATRE, AND ASSEMBLY ROOMS. The Theatre was erected by subscription, and in situate in Sadler-street. The foundation stone was laid July 6th, 1791 ; and the first play was performed March 12th, 1792. The Assembly Rooms are under the direction of Messrs. Watts and Wetherell, and are in the North Bailey. Captain Ellis, who officiates gratuitously, is master of the ceremonies. SUBSCRir»TION LIBRARY, AND NEWSROOM. This buikling, which is situated at the head of Sadler-street, on the west side, was erected in tlie year 1820, on the scite of part of the old gaol. The Library was established in 1802, and is supported by upwards of a hundred subscribers, at a guinea a 3'eai^ each, and possesses a very extensive collection of the best standard modern publications. PUBLIC CHARITIES. The following Public Charities belong to t)urliami Bishop Crewe, left by his will, dated Jan. 24, 1720, £100 per annum, for apprenticing poor boys. Dn Hartweli, in 1724, left £20. per annum, to be given to two tradesmen of the established church, who have served their apprenticeships in the city, and want assist^ 00 CitY Of DURriAM, atice to begin business. Bishop Wood, of Litcb{ield> gave £20. per annum for ever, to be disposed of for • the relief of poor debtors in the gaol at Durham, whose ^ debts do not exceed five pounds. He also gave £lOOi to be laid out on a rent charge, towards the mainte- nance of tlie poor of the corporation for ever. Henry Smith, by his will, dated July 20, 1598, bequeathed till his coalmines, then worth £100. per annum, besides a very considerable personal estate, to the corporation of this city, " that some good trade may be devised for setting off the youth and other idle persons to work, as shall be thought most convenient, Whereby some profit may arise to the benefit of the said city, and relief of '^ those who are past work.'* This charity was soon afteif employed in establishing a cloth manufactory ; but> '. from tlie knavery of some of the cloth-workers who \vere entrusted with the money, the governors, in the year 1619, devised a diff(erent mode of disposing of the property, by laying it out in land. Attempts have been made at diiterent times to establish a manu*^ factory in Durham, but they have all proved nnsuc-^ cessful, till Mr. Gilbert Henderson, commenced a carpet manufactory, in the Back Lane ; which is at present carried on very briskly, and affords employment to a number of people. ASSOCIATIONS. Among other Associations for benevolent purposed in this city, are the Society for the Encouragement of AND ITS ENVIRONS. 61 Parochial Schools ; a Bible Association ; a Religious Tract Society ; a Ladies' Society, for assisting poor married Women ; and the Durham Diocesan Society, , for Promoting Christian Knowledge.. FAIRS. The Fairs held in Durham, yearly, for horned cattle, sheep, and horses, are on the 3lst of March; Whit- Tuesday; Saturday before May 13th ; September 15th; and Saturday before Nov. 23d. On these occasions the Court of Pie-poudre is held by the corporation. The Fairs in March are much resorted to by the principal horse-dealers from the South, on account of the ex- cellent horses which are bred in the adjacent country, and brought in for sale at that time.. THE RACE GROUND. A^ljoining the suburb of Old Elvet, is the Race Ground , which, for the picturesque beauty of the sur- rounding scenery, and convenient situations for seeing the Races, equalsj if not surpasses, any Course in the kingdom. The Races are in May, and usually continue four days. From a curious entr}'* in thie parochial Register of St. Nicholas, it appears that these Races * " April, lf)8». It is ordered, that Simoa Lackenby is to keep in lieu of his inter-common ground, one sufficient bull for the use of the city and borough kyne, for three years next en- suing ; and to give ten shUlirigs towanha silver plate for a CoiirscV a. 62 CITY OF BIRHAM, have been establfehed as early as tbo reign of CharTes the second. PRINCIPAL INNS, BANKING HOUSES, &c. Tlie priflcipat Tnns in Durham are, The Waterloo,. in Old Elvet; The Three Tuns, in New Elvel ; The Queen's Head, in the Nortli Bailey ; The City Tavern, in the Market-place; The Hat and Feather, ia Claypath ; and The Red Lion, in Silver-street. The Bank is carried on by Messrs. Backhouse MrAa»i CArowic/e, estjblished in 1820, and published also on Fridays, by Mr. JoUa Hardinge Veitch, at liis office in Sadler-street. 4 AND ITS ENVIRONS. <^ THE GOVERNMENT OF THE CITY OF DURHAM. The original denomination of Durham, after its civil esta])lishment, was that of Borougli ;* and its local * " We are totally ignorant," says Hutchinson, ** wbat pri- vileges this place anciently enjoyed as a borough. The munificent prelate, Hugh Pudsey, after the disputes with his Sovereign had subsided, granted a written charter to the burgesses of Durham, which was the first charter the borough received : The people of Durham are therein stiled burgesses, we presume from their inhabiting within the gates of a walled town, and under the protection of a fortress, where they carried on a secure trade, and perhaps held certain customs established by successive pre- lates. By this charter, the people were for ever thereafter discharged from the customs of in-toll and out-toll for all their merchandizes ; they were also exempted from heriots, a duty or tribute established in very distant antiquity, and in the Saxon times given to the lord for his better maintenance in war. Most of the ancient writers have distinguished heriots in two branches, heriot custom, and heriot service : Law definitions have little right to a place here ; it must suffice to say, that both denomi- nate an estate of inheritance, and the heriot service a fee simple. But the fourth exemption by this charter is most singular; it is a discharge from the custom of murchet : This was the old borough custom,t and brings ludicrous ideas, when one considers it had relation to a prelate's borough. When the barbarous customs of our ancestors began to be corrected through the medium of more polished manners, and learning had diffused a liberality of sentiment, this brutal and absurd mark of the vilest vassalage was commuted for a money payment. In various parts of this t Marchet — Turpis Scotorum veterum consuetudo, qua ter- ritorii dominus vassalli sponsam prima nocte comprimeret^ ^ioremque carperet pudicitiaJ. Spelman's Gloss, p: 397. 64 CITY or DURHAM, polity was exercised by a bailiff, whose appoiutineiit remained with the bishops. The first charter now ex- tant, was granted to this city by bishop Pudsey, about the year 1179, in which he grants to the hui'gesses, as they are there styled, an exemption from all tolls, and also the same privileges as were enjoyed by the bur- gesses of Newcastle. In several subsequent deeds granted by the succeeding prelates, they are still called by the same title of burgesses* There is an instance of bishop Neville's appointing a marshal, or clerk of tlie market, in the year 1448. About this time also, several of the crafts, '* who had exercised their trades witliin the city, were under special restrictions and byela\vs framed by themsehes, and confirmed by the island the custom bore difTeient names; in some places the marchet, in others, maiden-rents, and in \y'c\\(i%, givabr-marched; ail distinguishing a mulct paid to the lord for the marriage of a vassal's daughter, and originally commuted for his right with the virgin bride. The additional bounty to the boiough, \\hicU has reference to the free customs of Newcastle, may not he so easily explained, no historian having hitherto informed us what were the original privileges of Newcastle, or by whom they were granted. If, in the laborious researches of the reverend Mr. Brand, this may be discovered, it will add new light to the history of our city, whose burgesses, by this grant, were entitled to hold all such free customs as the burgesses of Newcastle enjoyed. This prelate improved the city greatly by building Elvet Bridge, and continuing the city wall fiom the north-gate, now called the Gaol-gate, to the south-gate or water-gate." — Bishop Pudsey's charter, with the confirmation of Pope Alex- ander III. are now in the possession of the corporation ef Newcp.stle. AND ITS ENVIRONS. 05 prelates, in whose times tliey were respectively insti- tuted, thus obtaining the face of a charter." The first charter of incorporation was granted, Ja- nuary 30th, 1565, by bishop Pilkington, by which the city w'as incorporated, by the name of aldermen and burgesses within the city of Durham and Framwelffate, besides several other privileges. Under this charter the city was then governed, till bishop Matthew granted a new charter in the year 1602, whereby the burgesses and inhabitants w^ere constituted a body politic and corporate, consisting of a mayor, twelve aldermen, and commonalty, with divers privileges, and a power to purchase lands, not exceeding 100 marks a year, and to have a common seal. This charter was confirmed by king James I. in the year 1605,- and continued in force till the year 1684, when it was surrendered to bishop Crewe, who immediately granted a new charter of incorporation; but some informality having been discovered in the form of surrendering up the old charter, it was deemed illegal, and the corporation still subsisted under Matthew's charter until the year 1761, when information having been filed in the court of King's Bench, against several of the aldermen, as being non-residents, or not being legally qualified at the time of their election, they were ousted from their offices. Some irregularities having also been com- mitted, both on the election of the common-council, in the year 1761, which affected the title of the mayor to his office, to which he was elected the day following, and from which he was ejected by the judgment <;;^ c 3 66 CITY OF DURHAM, the court of King's Bench soon after ; from the aborer causes, as well as the natural deaths of some of the old aldermen, the number of alderme'i was .so reduced, as not to be able to constitute a court. In consequence the charter being vacated,, the city continued under the government of a bailiff till the year 1780, when a new charter, dated October the 2d, was granted by bishop Egerton, in ^^ hich the defects of tlie old chartei's were remedied, and the powers and privileges of the corporation and citizens confiimcd. Under this charter the city is now governed. The numbers of the corporation are, a mayor, recorder, twelve aldermen, town-clerk, twenty four common-council- nien, an indefinite number of freemen, and two Ser- jeants at mace. The common-council are chosen from the twelve incorporated companies, viz. t\^o each from the company of mercers and grocers, drapers and tailors, skinners and glovers, tanner^s weavers^ dyers and fullers, cordwainers, sadlers, smiths, biUcheri^, carpenters and joiners, and free and rough masons. There are also three other companies, viz. the gold- smiths and plumbers, curriers and chandlers, and bakers and ropers, which have no common-council. MAYORS OF THE CITY Or DUKIIAM. jFirst mayor, Hugh Wright, ap. by bishop Blatthew, 21st Sep. - " - - 1G02 James Farrales, elected 4'vh Oct. - 1602 Edw. Miudess, dyer - - . 1G03 Tho. l*ear.>?on - - . _ 1(504 AND ITS ENVIRONS. 67 [An ortler was made on the 4th Oct, concerning such persons as were then infected with the plague within ilie city and bo- rougli.] Will. Hall, draper - - 1605 llobt. Suorlies, mercer -* - 1(>06 llugli riiitcliiiison, tanner - 1G07 Joliii Pattin^on, mercer - - 1608 Edw. \yanless, dyer - - 1009 Hu^h Wright, gent. 27tli Feb. 1611 - 1610 Will. Hall, 14111 Aug. 1612. Culled to account 1611 1612 1&13 1614 1615 1616 Geo. Walton - - - 1617 [The market cross was erected this year at the expense of Tho. Emerson, of Black-Friars, London. And on the 18th of April, king James came in state to the city ; and was received by the mayor, who made an elegant speech on the occasion, and presented* his majesty with a gold cup : at the same time an apprentice spoke some verses before the king.] Wm. Hall, oc. 30lli Aug. 1619 - 1618 Wm. Hall, 00. again lOtli April, 1620 1619 Tim. Comyn, oc. 17tli Sep. 1621 - 1620 [In this mayorality, a petition was presented for the city sending two burgesses to parliament.] l^ich. Wliilfield, oc. lltli Sep. 1622 . 1621 Wm. Hall, oc. 12tli Jan. 1622 - 1622 Hugh Wright, oc. 12th March - 1623 1624 John Heighington - - 1625 John Lambtoune - - 1626 [An entry is made in the corporation books of this year, that a large silver seal was given to the corporation in IGOG, by Matthew Pattesonne, the son of a burgess. Wm. Philipson, esq. oc. 12th Sep. 1628 1627 John Pattison, 4th Oct. 1628 - — — Rich. V^^hitfield, oc. 27th Oct. and 18th Dec. 1628 68 CITY OF DURHAM, John Heigh iijgton - - 1629 Nich. Whitfield (died soon after) - 1630 Wm. Hall, sue. Whitfield,, and oc. 11th Sep. 1632 1631 Hugh Wright . - - 1632 Hugh Walton - - - 1633 Hugh Walton again. His acct. 19th Jan. 1635 1634 Ra. Allison, oc. 19th Jan. 1635 - 1635 John Heighington, 4th Oct. - 1636 John Heighington again - - 1637 Tho. Cook, 4th Oct. 163a. Tho. Mann, 28th Jan. 1638 Hugh Waltou, 4th Oct. - - 1639 Hugh Walton again - - 1640 Chr. Cookson, Oct. • - 1641 Ra. Allison « . . 1642 1643 John Hall - - - 1644 1645 John Hall . • - 1646 1647 John Airson,^ mercer, 4th Oct. - 1648 John Airson again • - 1649 John Hall, draper - - 1650 John Hall again - - 1651 John Walton, mercer - - 1652 Anth. Dale, 24th April, 1654 - 1653 John Airson, mercer - - . 1654 Anth. Bayles, esq. - - 1655 John Hall, draper, oc. 10th Oct. - 1656 Hen. Rowell, mercer, oc. Dec. - Anth. Smith - - - 1657 Rich. Lee ... 1658 Rowell - - • 1659 Anth. Dale, 4th Oct. - - 1660 1661 Stephen Thompson - - 1662 Matt. Bailes, oc. 18th Feb. - 1663 1664 John Stokeld - - - 1665 TTho. Ma«calV oc. 18th Dec, - 1666 AND ITS EJ^VIBONS. 69 Hen. Wanless, dyer, oc. 3rd Feb. - 1667 1668 1669 1670 Geo. Hodgson - - - 1671 1672 Stephen Thompson, oc. 28th April, 1674 1673 [This year an act passed for the city to send burgesses to parliament] John Hall, oc. 18th Nov. 1674 - 1674 1675 John Morland, esq. oc. 25th Sep. 1677 1676 Tho. Stokeld, esq. oc. 13th and 28th Sep. 1678 1677 Wm. Blakiston, esq. oc. 19th Oct. 1678 1678 Cuth. Hutchinson, 17th Sep. - 1679 John Duck, esq. oc. 1st Nov. - 1680 John Hutchinson, oc. 26th Oct. - 1681 1682 John Hutchinson, oc. 24th April, 1634 1683 Marmaduke Allison, 15th Sep. 1685 1681 Again 2lst April, 1686 - - 168"^ Kobt. Delaval, esq. 23rd Nov. - 1636 1687 Ilobt. Delaval - - - 1688 1689 Geo. Morland, mercer, 29th July *• 1690 Wm. Greveson, 4th Oct. ' - 1691 Wheatley Dohson, grocer - 1692 Wheatley Dobson again - - 1693 Wm. Hodgson - ^ - 1694 John Gordon - , , 1695 l^healley Dobson - - 1696 Wheatley Dobson re-elected - 1697 ('utli. Hutchinson, esq. - - 1(598 Edw. Fairless - . - 1699 Anth. Hall - - - 1700 Geo.Tweddlo - - - 1701 Cuth. Hutchinson - - 1702 i:d>v. Fairies:* - - - 170a 70 CITY or DURHAM, Ra. Paxton Anth. Hall Ra. Paxton John Gray Rich. Mascall Ra. Bainbridge Anth. Hall Fran. Cornforth Mich. Brabin Rich. Mascall John Hutchinson Mich. Brabin John Gray Fran. Cornforth Ra. Bainbridge Mich. Brabin Robt. Smith Giles Rain Hen. Forster John Gray Fran. Cornforth Ra. Bainbridge Mich. Brabin Robt. Smith Giles Rain Hen. Forster Robt. Wharton Geo. Dale John Lamb Geo. Bowes Robt. Smith Hen. Forster John Gray Robt. Wharton Geo. Dale Geo. Bowes John Aisley Cuth. Bainbridge TIio. Dimn 1704 1705 1706 1707 1708 1709 17lO 1711 1712 1713 1714 1714 1715 1716 1717 1718 1719 1720 1721 1722 1723 1724 1725 1726 1727 1728 1729 1730 1731 1732 1733 1734 1735 1736 1737 1738 1739 1740 1741 AND ITS ENVIRONS. tt Willi Forster ^ 174*2 Tho. Bainbridge « 1743 Hilton Shaw - 1744 Tho. Hornsby « 1745 Culh. Bainbridge - 1746 Tho. Dunn - 1747 Wm. Forster - 1748 Tho. Bainbridge * 1749 Tho. Hornsby - 1750 Jos. Grey - ^ 1751 Sir Robt. Eden, bart. - 1752 Geo. Bowes, esq. i 1753 John Richardson - 1764 Earl of Darlington - ' 1755 John Lamb i. 1750 Lord Barnard ■* 1757 Cuth. Smith - - 175^ Cuth. Bainbridge ^ 1759 Rich. Wharton . 1760 John Drake Bainbridge - 1761 Tho. Hornsby - ' 1762 Jos. Gray - 1763 John Hopper - 1764 Ra. Bowser - 1765 John Lamb - 1766 John Drake Bainbridge - 1767 Tho. Hornsby * 1768 John Lamb » 1769 John Drake Bainbridge - - 1770 [1780, 2d Oct. the new charter granted by bishop Egerton.] John Drake Bainbridge, 2d Oct. - 1789 Ralph Bowser, 1st Oct. ^ - 1781 Richard Shuttle worth, 30th Sep. - 1782 William Kirton, 6th Oct. - * 1783 Thomas Dunn, 4th Oct. . - 1784 John Star forth, 3d Oct. - - 1785 Christopher Hopper, 2d Oct. - 1786 John Potti5, 1st Oct. - - 1787 •Ji, CITY DF DURHAM, John James, Gth Oct. » - l'?89 George Finch, 5th Oct. - ^ 1709 Thomas Chipchase, 4tli Oct. - 1790 William Shields, 3d Oct. - - 1791 Gilbert Starforth, 1st Oct. - 1792. Thomas Austin, 30th Sep. - 1793 John Drake Bainbridge, Gth Oct. - 1794 William Kirton, 5th Oct. • - 1795 John Starforth, 3d Oct. - - 1796 John Hutchinson, 2d Oct. - 1797 Christopher Hopper, 1st Oct. refusing to accept the office, was fined 10 guineas, and on the day following John Potts was elected, 2d Oct. ■- 1798 John James, 30th Sep. - - 1799 George Finch, 6th Oct. - - 1800 Martin Dunn, 5th Oct. - - 1801 Thomas Chipchase the younger> 4th Oct. 1802 Thomas Chipchase, 3d Oct. - 1803 John Dixon, 1st Oct. - - 1804 WiUiam Shields, 30tli Sep. «- 1805 Thomas Austin, 6th Oct. - - 1806 Thomas Dunn, 5th Oct. - - 1807 John Hutchinson, 3d Oct. - ■■- 1808 Martin Dunn, 2d Oct. - - 1809 Thomas Wilkinson, 1st Oct. - 1810 Thomas Chipchase the younger, 30th Sep.- 1811 John Dixon, 5th Oct. - - 1812 Thomas Dunn, 4th Oct. - ■- 1813 Thomas WilkinsoUj 3d Oct. - 1814 Kev. Edw. Davison, 2d Oct. - 1815 Thomas Austin, 30th Sep. - 1816 John Hutchinson, 6th Oct. - 1817 Edward Shippardson, 5th Oct. - 1818 Richard Kirton, 4th Oct. - - 1819 Robert AYaugh, 2d Oct. - - 1820 Thomas Chipchase the younger, 1st Oct. 1821 John Wetherell Hays, 30th Sep. - 1822 Ralph Hutchinson /6th Oct. - 1823 AND ITS ENVIRONS. ^7'^ This cit}? was not represented in parliament till tlie S5th of Charles IT., a circumstance which may un- douhtedly he ascribed to the vast power and in-fluence of the bishop; as returning members to parliament was anciently considered as more grievous and incon- venient than either useful or hoirourable. The extension of learning produced ideas more favourable to liberty ; however, till the y-ear 1673, that this privilege was awarded to Durham, when, hy a special act of parliament, it was enabled to send members, to be elected by the mayor, aldermen, and freemen. The number of electors is about 1,000. The famous Durham, or Grenville Act, was occasioned by some illegal proceedings in the admission of freemen, during a contested election in the year 1762 ; by which, all persons were restricted from voting who had not been ^* possessed of their franchise twelve calendar months before the day of election," except those entitled to their freedom hy the custom of the borough. tePRESENTATIVES IN PARLIAMENT TOR THE CITY OF DURHAM. CHAKLES II. i675. — Ra. Cole of Brancepeth-castle, hart, and John Parkhurst, of Catesby, in Northamptonshire, esq. Elected Mar. 27, 1675. Oandidates~Ra. Cole, bart. polled 408; John Parkhurst, esq. 371 ; Wm. Tem- pest, of Old Durham, esq. 391 ; John Turner, ser- 74 CITY OF DURHAM, jeant at law, 187; and Wm* Christian, esq. 171. Upon a scrutiny it was found tliat twelve of Mr^ Tempest's votes were not freemen, and that three of his votes had polled twice over. The single number of freemen that voted at the above election, was 83&. 1678. — Wm. Tempest, esq. and Ra. Cole, bart. Elect- ed 20th Feb. 1678. Candidates — Wm. Tempest, esq. polled 571 ; lla. Cole, bart. 515; and W. Bla- kiston, esq. mayor of Durlium, 436. 1679. — Wm. Blakiston, esq. mayor of Durham, and Kich. Lloyd. Elected 10th Sep. 1679. Candidates — Wm. Blakiston, esq. polled 514 ; Rich. Lloyd 506; and Wm. Tempest, esq. 504. 1680. — Rich. Lloyd, and Wm. Tempest, esq. Elected 10th Feb. 1680, sans poll. JAMES II. 1685. — Rich. Lloyd, and Cha. Montague. Elected 12th March, 1684, sans poll. 1688.— Geo. Morland, and Hen. Liddell. Elected 18th Dec. 1688. Candidates — Geo. Morland, polled 599 ; Hen. Liddell 407 ; and Wm Tempest, esq. 278. 1088. — Wm. Tempest, esq. and Geo. Morland. Elect- ed 3d March, 1688, sans poll. WILLIAM IIL 1^95. — Cha. Montague, and Hen. Liddell. Elected 30th Oct. 1695, sans polL 1698. — Cha. Montague, and Tho. Conyers. Elected 28th July, 1698. Candidates — Cha. Montague, polled 637; Tho. Conyers 424; and Hen Liddell 408. 1700. — Cha. Montague, and Tho. Conyers. 1701. — Cha. Montague, and Hen. Bellasis, of Brance- peth-castle, knt. AKD ITS ENViaJ^^NS. 75 QUEEN ANNE. 1702. — Hen. Bellasis, knt. and Tlio. Conyers. 1705.— Sir Hen. Bellasis, knt. and Tho. Conyers.* 1708. — Tho. Conyers, and James Nicholson. Both voted for the impeachment of Dr. Hen. Sacheverel. 1710. — ^I'ho. Conyers, and Hen. Bellasis. The num- ber of votes exceeding 1,000. Candidates — ^Tho. Conyers, Henry Bellasis, and James Nicholson. Bellasis was appointed a commissioner in Spain, and a new writ was ordered, 15th Feb. 1712. Robt. Shafto, of Whitworth, esq. elected. Candidates — Robt. Shafto, and Anthony Hall, alderman of Dur- ham. 1713. — Tho. Conyers, and Geo. Baker, of Crooke, esq. GEORGE I. 1714. — Tho. Conyers, and Geo. Baker, esq. Mr. Baker died at Bristol, 1st June, and was buried in Lanchester church, 12th June, 1723. 1722. — Tho. Conyers, and Cha. Talbot, esq. Elected 27th Mar. 1722. Candidates— Cha. Talbot, polled 860 ; Tho. Conyers 654 ; and James Montague 563. Mr. Talbot, (the son of Wm. Talbot, bishop of Durham,) 23d April, was made the king's solicitor- general, and a new writ ordered, 23d April, 1726. He was re-chosen, 2d May, 1726, sans poll. GEORGE II. 1727.- Cha.Talbot, and Robt. Shafto, of Whitworth, esq. Mr. Shafto dying in 1729, a new writ was or- * ^' Sir Henry Bellasis, Esquire Conyers, and George Sheffield, stood poll for the city, but Sheffield gave up." — Bees' Dianj. *' Coley Sheffield, apothecary, who once stood candidate for Parliament-man for Durham, died, 5th Dec. 1700." — lb. "je CITY OF DURHAM, tiercel, loth Jan. 17*20. John Sliafto, of M Iiilwortff* esq. was elected, 29tli Jan. 1729. Candidates — John Shafto, esq. polled 577; Hen. Lambton, of Lambton haU, esq. 553 ; Craddock 2 ; and Tho. Hanmer, bart. 1. The election continued four days, viz. 26th, 27th, 28th, and 29th January. Clia. Tal- bot, esq. being appointed Lord Chancellor, 29tU Nov. 1733, and 5th Dec. following created baron Talbot of Hensol, — a new writ was ordered. Hen. Lambton, esq. Mas elected, 29tli April, 1734. 1741. — John Shafto, of Whitby, esq. and Hen. Lamb- ton, esq. Elected 8tli May, 1741, sans poll. Mr. Shafto dying at London, 3d Apiil, 1742; John Tempest, of Winyard, esq. was elected, 23d April, 1742. 1747. — Hen. Lambton, esq. and John Tempest, esq. Elected 20tli June, 1747. Candidates — Hen. Lamb- ton, esq. polled 737 ; John Tempest, esq. .581 ; and Robt. IVliarton, esq. alderman of Durham, 538. The election continued two days, viz. 29tli and 30tli Jan. 1747. 1754. — Hen. Lambton, esq ^ and John Tempest, esq. Elected 15th April, 1754, sans poll, GEOUGE ILL 1761. — John Tempest, esq. and Hen. Lambton, esq. Elected 6th of April, 1761. Candidates — John Tempest, esq. polled 705 ; Hen. Lambton, esq. 546; and Ra. Gowland, of Durham, esq. 526. Number of votes 1,050. Liorease of freemen since 1675, 212 in 86 years. The election lasted tliiee days, viz. 30th, and 31st March, and 1st April, 1761. A scrutiny was demanded by Mr. Gowland, and granted by Mr. Rich. Wharton, major; but on Monday (6tli April) Mr. Gowland declined the scrutiny. Mr. Lambton died suddenly in his chariot, 26ih June, 1761. Ralph Gowland, eeq. was elected 12th Pec, 1761. Candidates— Ra. Gowland, esq. polled AND ITS ENVIRONS. 77 775 ; and Major Gen. J. Lambton, of Harraton, 752. The election continued six days, viz. 7tli, 8th, 9th, 10th, 11th, and 12th Dec. 1761. The mayor of Durham, with the majority of the aldermen, having displaced sixteen common-council men, and named others of inferior fortunes, the corporation repealed the bye-laws made in 1728, and made new ones, under the sanction whereof, the mayor, &c. at seve- ral times swore 215 occasional freemen, who were brought out of Yorkshire, Westmoreland, Cumber- land, Northumberland, and the county of Durham, in order to serve Mr. Gowland, then major of the Durham militia. At the close of the poll, the num- bers stood, for Mr. Gowland (with the 215) 775 ; for Mr. Lambton, 752. Mr. Gowland's majority 23, his legal votes 560. On Mr. Lambton's petition, Mr. Gowland was ousted of his seat ; and in 1775, was elected for Cockermouth.. The number of legal freemen who then voted, was 1,312. 1768. — Major Gen. John Lambton, and John Tempest the younger, of Winyard, esq. Elected 21st March, 1768. 1774. — Major Gen. John Lambton, and John Tempest the younger. Elected 14th Oct. 1774. Candidates — John Tempest, esq. polled 369; Gen. Lambton 325; and Mark Milbank, esq. 248. The election continued four days, viz. 11th, 12th^ 13th, and 14tli: Oct. 1774. 1780. — Major Gen. John Lambton, and John Tempest,, esq. elected. 1784. — The same gentlemen elected again. 1787. — General Lambton having accepted the Chiltern hundreds, William Henry Lambton, esq. was elected 9th March. 1790. — John Tempest, esq. and William Henry Lamb- Ion, esq. Mr. Tempest died suddenly at Winyard,. 12th Aug. 1794. Sir Henry Vane tempest, bart« was returned, 17th Oct. 1794. H. 3 78 CiTY OF DURHAM, 1706. — Will. Henry Lambton, escj. and Sir Henry Vane Tempest, bart. Mr. Lambton died at Pisa, 30th Nov. 1797, when Ralph John Lambton, esq. was returned, Jan. 8th, 1798. 1800. — Sir Henry Vane Tempest, bart. having ac- cepted the Chiltern hundreds, Michael Augelo Tay- lor, esq. was elected, 17th March, 1800. Candidates — M. A. Taylor, esq. polled 4G4; M. Russell, esq. 360 ; and G. Baker, esq. 7. The election continued six days, viz. 11th, 12th, 13th, 14th,, 15th and 17th March. 1802. — Ra. John Lambton, esq. and Richard Wharton, of Old Park, esq. Elected 24th July, 1802. Can- didates — Ra. Jolin Lambton, esq. polled 530; R.. Wharton, esq. 517; and M. A. Taylor, esq. 498. This severely contested election continued six days, viz. 19th, 20th, 21st, 22d, 23d, and 24th July. At this election Mr. Wharton polled 409 plumpers, or single votes. A scrutiny was demanded against Mr. Wharton's return, which ^vas declared void by a committee of the House of Commons, in 1804, and a new writ ordered, when Robert Eden Duncombe Shafto, of Whitworth, esq. Mas elected, 5th March. Candidates — R. E. D. Shafto, esq. polled 385; Francis Tweddell, esq. of Threepwood, (brother to the celebrated traveller John Tweddell) 289; and C. Spearman, esq. 13. 1806. — Ra. J. Lambton, esq. and Rich. Wharton, esq.. Elected 7th Nov. 1806. 1807. — Same gentlemen again. May 14th. 1812. — Same gentlemen again, Oct. 7th. R. J. Lamb- ton, esq. having accepted the Chiltern hundreds, George Allan, esq. of Blackwell Grange, near Dar- lington, was elected 10th Dec. 1813. Candidates — Geo. Allan, esq. polled 440 ; and Geo. Baker, of Ell- ermore, esq. 360. The election continued nine days, riz. 1st, 2d, 3d, 4th, Gth, 7th, 8th, OtI), and 10th Dec. 1813. ANJ> ITS ENVIRONS. 1J) 1818. — M. A. Taylor, esq. and llicli. Wliarloii> esq. Elected lOtli June. At this election, on the sense of the meeting being called for by the returning officer, the shew of hands was in favour of Mr. Taylor and Mr. Wharton, but a poll having been demanded by some of the friends of Mr. Allan, iu the absence of that gentleman, the business of the court was kept open for three days, when Mr. Tay- lor and Mr. Wharton were returned. Candidates — M. A. Taylor, esq. polled 437 ; Rich. Wharton, esq^ 347 ; and Geo. Allan, esq. 27. GEORGE IV. 1821. — Mr. Wharton having taken his leave of the freemen of the city of Durham, and offered himself for the county, M. A. Taylor, esq. and Sir Henry Hardinge, were elected, 8th March, 1820, sans polf. Sir Henry Hardinge having accepted a situation in the Ordnance Department, a new^Trit was ordered in March, 1823, and he was re-elected April 5th. Candi- dates — SirH. Hardinge, polled 249; and Hed worth Lambton, esq. (brother to the member for the coun- ty) 66. This election continued two days. Mr. H. Lambton was unacquainted with tlie proceedings of this election, being at that time abroad. Durham is paved, flagged, lighted,* and watched, under the direction of Commissioners, appointed for that purpose, by an Act of Parliament, passed in the 30th Geo.IIl. and considerably amended in the 3d * The city of Durham was lighted with gas at the latter «nd of the year 1823. The gasworks are in a field adjoiDJDg Frainwelcate. (JO CITY OF DURHAM, ETC. year of Geo. IV. To defray the expence, toll bars are erected at the different avenues leading to the city, where toll is collected, which, in addition to a trifling assessment made upon the householders, is sufficient for all the pui-poses of regulating the town. By a census taken in the year 1822, the city of Durham contains 1^169 houses, and 9,822 inhabitants ,. being 4,476 males, and 6,346 females, of whom 1,362 were returned as being employed in trade and manu- factures. Durham has produced many literary characters; amongst whom may be enumerated, Robert Hegg, the author of the Legend of St. Cuthbert, and a Trea- tise upon Dialling, ScC. John Hall,* a celebrated English poet, who published a Translation of Longinus. And Dr. Richard Grey, author of several works, and particularly, the Memoria Technical or a new method of Artificial Memory. * A neat edition of Hall's Poems was printed in 1816, at the private press of Longman and Co. London. Hall's Poetry is very beautiful, and his style of writing resembles that of Herriek., AN ACCOUNT OF THE PLACES AND BUILDINa^^ IN THE VICINITY OF DURHAM, REMARKABLE FOR THEIR ANTIQUITY* KEPIEK HOSPITAL. J. HIS Hospital, which stands on the banks of the river Wear, about one mile north east from Durham, was founded in the year 1112, by bishop Flambard, and endowed for the maintenance of a master and twelve brethren. The endowments were afterwards confirmed by bishop Pudsey, who also restored the buildings, which had been consumed by fire in the reign of Stephen. At the dissolution, its revenues were valued at £18G. lOd. and it Avas then granted to Sir William Paget, by Henry VIII. It afterwards came, by purchase, into the family of Heath, by whom it was sold in the year IGoO, to Kalph Cole, esq. ; liis son, Sir Nicholas Cole, again disposed of it to the families of Tempest, Carr, and Musgrave, whose de-^ ^cendants arc yet owners. The only remains of ti*Q 82 CITY OF DURHAM, monastic buildings now standing, is the gateway, a strong and not unhandsome piece of masonry, with pointed arches. OLD DURHAM, &c. About three-quarters of a mile to the east of Dur- ham, adjoining Peel Law or Pellaw Wood, is Old Durham, a spot supposed by Mr. Hutchinson, to have been occupied by the Saxons previously to the foundation of the present city; and by Mr. J. Cade, of Durham, to have been a Roman station. It was part of the possessions of the family of Tempest, w here they frequently resided, and is now the property of the Marquis of Londonderry, who married the heiress and representative in blood of that ancient house. The fine views which present themselves from the adjoining gardens, which are open to the public, can- not fail of affording the most ample gratification to the admirers of beautiful landscape, and of nature arrayed in her loveliest attire. Opposite to Old Durham, on the south side of the Wear, is the scite of an ancient fortification, (supposed to be Roman) called Maiden Castle j which occupied the summit of Maiden Castle Scar, and has been described thus by Hutchinson ; — " The castle is inac- cessible from the river by reason of the steepness of the cliff, which is almost perpendicular, and about 100 feet in height. On the right and left the steep sides pf the mount are covered with a thick forest of oaks ; AND ITS ENVIRONS. 0^1 The crown of the mount consists of a level area or plian, forty paces wiele on the summit of the scar, in the front or nortli-east side ; 160 paces long, on the left-hand side ; and 170 paces on the right. The approach is easy on the land side, from the south west^ fortified with a ditch and breast-work ; the entrance, or passage over the ditch, is not in the middle, but made to correspond with the natural rise of the outward ground; probably this entrance was guarded by H drawbridge : The ditch is twelve paces wide, and runs with a little curvature to each edge of the slope, now covered with wood, as before noted; on one hand being fifty paces in length, and the other eighty paces* After passing the ditch, there is a level parade, of platform, twenty paces wide, and then a high earth fence, now nine feet perpendicular, which as in most places of the like kind, it is apprehended was faced with mason- work : A breast-work has run from the earth fence on each hand along the brink of the hill, to the edge of the cliff, or scan The earth fence closes the whole neck of land, and is in length 100 paces, form^ ing the south west side of the area : It was supported anciently, as is presumed, by another fortress, called the Peelf erected on the opposite eminence, which now bears the name of Peel Law. Many places in the northern counties retain the name of Peel and Law, implying castle and hill, whose antiquity may be traced back to the Saxon times. The name of rnaideUf applied to a castle, is now become indefinite ; whether it implies leant ifnl, or a fortress which never 04 CITY OF DURHAM, has ?>een conquered, li€is not been determined : Ouir best antiquarians give preference to the distinction fair or beautiful,* The old fort, on Stainraore, in West-' moreland, is called Maiden Castle ^ and the adjoining inclosures, bear the name of PeeZ-yard." SHERBURN HOSPITAL. Between two and three miles from Durham, east- ward, stands Sherburn ttospital, founded about the year 1181, by bishop Pudsey. for the reception of gixty-five poor lepei's, a master, and other officers* The present buildings retain little of the ancient order : In the chapel only, are found remains of the age in which the founder lived. The Hospital wa« destroyed by the Scots, but restored by Thomas d6 Hessewell, who was master between the years 1330 and 1339 ; and has since been rebuilt by Dr. Gregory, who was appointed master in 1759. It stands in a very healthy situation, on the different sides of an * In the Gentleman's Magazine for the year 1755, the origiii of the name Maiden, when annexed to fVay or Castle, is leain- edly defined by that great antiquary Mr. Pegge, under his then signature of Gemsege : Particularly he says, " to risque a con- jecture upon a point so obscure, perhaps it may come fnom the British word Mad. puhher or beautiful; hence possibly may come the Anglo-Saxon word Maid and Maiden, virgo, which in that case answers exactly to our present expressions, a fair one, and in the pluml, the fair ; a sense undoubtedly Very well accommodated to all the three names of Maiden-Castle, Maiden^ fVaij, and Mai dm -Hold." AND ITS ENVIRONS. 85 enclosed area, and contains about an acre of ground. The master's house is a commodious dwelling, with pleasant gardens. The body of the chapel is lighted by three narrow windows on the south, under circular arches, and ornamented with small round pilasters, belted and capitalled like those in Durham cathedral, and apparently of equal date. The chancel is lighted by three windows on the north and south sides, all with pointed arches. From the constitutions framed for the government of the hospital by bishop Pudsey, and afterwards confirmed by bishop Kellow, it appears that the hos- pital was to receive 65 poor lepers, male and female ; each sex having their respective houses at separate sides of the area : Each leper was to have a loaf and a gallon of beer daily ; three days in the week flesh meat, and four days fish; so that one dish of meat, fish, cheese, or butter, should serve two; but on great days, two dishes were to be provided, particularly on Quadragesima day, when they were to have fresh sal- mon or other fish, if they could be had, for one dish ; and on Michaelmas-day, they should have geese, a goose to every four; but if that festival happened on a weekly fast day, the goose feast was to be postponed to Sunday. They were allowed yearly three yards of woollen cloth, russet or white, six yards of linen, and six yards of canvas, with other necessaries, as trusses of straw and bundles of reeds, with four yule clogs for the vigils of our Saviour. The brethren were to choose their prior, and the sisters their prioress. They were allowed I 80 CITY OF DURHAM^ fire from Michaelmas to tlie day of All Saiiits* Certain rules were ordained for the sicfc, for funerals and prayers. From Pentecost to Michaelmas, red herrings and salted viands were prohibited ; and each member was allowed in money at two days in the year, five-pence, and once in the year five shillings. The hospital was governed by the above rules till the lime of bishop Langley, when great abuses were com- plained of; the pious institution being converted into private emolument, and the buildings suffered to go to ruin, that prelate issued a commission, dated Sep. 4, 1429, directed to William Chancellor, his temporal chancellor, and others, empowering them to visit and examine the delapidations in the hospital erections, and to make enquiries concerning the abuses of the charity. Upon the commissioners reporting the mise- rable condition of the institution, the bishop applied to Pope Eugene IV. for redress, who granted liim a faculty to make new rules and ordinances, for the better governing thereof, which he accordingly made on July 22, 1434. It appears by them, that the leprosy was at that time almost eradicated, and two lepers *' if they could be found," were to be admitted, who were to be kept apart from the rest of the people admitted to tbe house : To these, 13 poor people were to be added, to be provided with meat and drink of tenpence value every week, or tenpence ready money, at their own option, and to have yearly Gs. 8d. for fuel and clothes, knd to mess and lodge in the same house, and daily to atlend mass. On this foundation tbe hospital conti- AND ITS ENVIRONS. 87 mied till the 27tli year of queen Elizabeth (1584,) when an act was passed, whereby it was re-incorporated by the name of " the Master and Brethren of Christ's Hospital, in Sherborne, near Durham, in the county of Durham." The number of brethren by this act was increased to thirty. Some additional statutes were made by bishop Matthew in 1595, by bishop Crewe in 1703, and afterwards, by bishop Chandler in 1735 ; and under them the hospital is now governed. In it are maintained 15 in-brothers, each of whom is accommodated with a neat room, a sufficiency of good and wholesome diet, a suit of clothes annually, and forty shillings in money. Divine service, at which all the brethren attend, is read twice every day in the chapel. There are 16 out brothers who are allowed 40s. each annually. It having been found that the revenue arising from the hospital estates would enable the master to increase the allowance to the out-brothers, as well as to those who resided in the hospital, a new wing, containing 15 apartments for the out-brothers, was commenced by the present bishop of Durham (the visitor of the hospital) in 1819, and completed in 1821. Several of the apartments are occupied ; and tliose who, from having wives, cannot comply with the rules of the resident brethren, receive £20, a year for life. Each brother has a small portion of ground allotted to him, which if he choose, he may cultivate as a garden. The Rev. Andrew Bell, D.D. LL.D. author of the Madras System of Education, is the present master; and the Rev. R. Bamford, author of Essays on School Discipline, is the chaplain. CITY OF DURHAM^ HOUGHALL. About one mile south-east from Durham, is Hongh- all, an ancient manor-house, erected by prior Hotoon, and forming part of the prebend al estates of Durham. This building has been surrounded by a moat, and otherwise fortified; and, according to authenticated accounts, was possessed by Sir Arthur Hazelrigge, during the civil wars, and for some time became the residence of Oliver Cromwell. BUTTERBY. The manor of Butterby, about two miles south from Durham, was part of the ancieat possessioBs of the LumleySf of Lumley Castle ; from Avhom it pro- bably passed as a portion with Margaret, daughter of Ralph Lumley, who married Sir John Clervaux, of Croft. Her daughter, the heiress of Clervaux, was wedded to Christopher Chaytor, who was found pos-» sessed of Butterby, or as it was then called, (from it^ beautiful situation) Beautrove, in the eighth year ftf queen Elizabeth. In the year 1G95, an act Mas. obtained to vest certain lands, the property of Sir William Chaytor, hart, in Yorkshire and Durham, tliat they might be sold to discharge debts, and secure portions for younger children. Under this statute, Butterby was sold in 1713, to Thomas, John, and Humphrey Doubleday ; and soon afterAvards, by pur^ chase, became the sole property of the latter;; g«^v© AND ITS ENVIRONS. 89 one third of the produce of the salt spring reserved to the use of John Doubleday's widow, and his heirs. Humphrey's eldest son, Martin Doubleday, dying a batchelor, he devised the manor with other estates, to his mother, who by her will, devised the same upon trust to be sold, and it was purchased by Mr. Ward, of Sedgefield, and has since become the property af W. T. Salvin, esq. of Croxdale. The manor house, stands in a low and recluse situ- ation, near the banks of the Wear, and is encompassed by a moat, walled round, which, though now dry, can be filled with water to the depth of 15 feet. In cleansing the moat some years since, a coat of mail with other armour, was discovered in a large stone trough; and in an adjacent field, in which an ancient hospital, dedicated to St. Leonard, is supposed to have stood, many stone coffins and jars for holy water, have been dug up. The grounds belonging to the manor are remarkably fertile : The river, near the house, falls swiftly over a rough channel, under high rocky shores and hanging woods, forming a canal a mile in length, where the adjacent lands make a considerable plain. There is not a sweeter rural scene in the whole country, unadorned, and in simple nature ; for art has not extended her hand hither, further than in the ordinary course of agriculture. This place is as remarkable for its natural curiosities as its beauty : Surrounded with the river, from a fissure of a rock in the bed of the channel, about forty feet from the shore, flows a con- I a 90 CITY OF DURHAM, siderable spring of salt water, mixed \\ ith a mineral quality. The situation of this spring subjects it to a mixture of fresh water, so that it is difficult to know how much salt it contains in its purest state : On several trials, it has yielded double the quantity pro- duced from sea water. The shore, for a considerable distance, shows many oozings, or small issues of salt water; and by a dyke, or break in the rocks in the channel of the river, a little above the spring, it is presumed a rock or bed of salt might be won of some value. This water is reputed to be an effectual remedy for diseases caused by deleterious fumes arising in smelting and refining-houses belonging to tlie lead works. Half a pint is sufficiently purgative for the strongest person. In a small rift or dell, nearly oppo- site the salt spring, are a sulphureous spring, and a spring of fresh water, issuing through a fissure of the neighbouring rock. It appears, from an account com- municated by Mr. Hugh Todd, and published in Lowther's Abridgment of the Philosophical Transac- tions, they were discovered by some Avorkmen em- ployed in boring for coal. At the depth of twelve fathoms and a half, they discovered a sulphureous spring; they tried the rock about a hundred yards distant, and at nearly the same depth found the spring of fresh water. A great number of persons frequent these wells in order to drink the waters. AND ITS ENVIRONS. Dl FINCHALE PRIORY. About three miles north of Durham, in a secluded spot on the western side of the river Wear, are the ruins of Finchale Priory, or, as it is generally, but erroneously, called Finchale Abbey. Fincliale ap- pears to have been of some note in the Saxon times ; a synod having been held here in the year 79*2, during the prelacy of Higbald, bishop of Lindisfame; and another, according to Leland, in 810; it is likewise famous for having been the scene of the austerities of St. Godric, who was born at Walpole, in Norfolk, had been twice on a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, and, according to the Legend, being directed by a vision to retire hither, erected a chapel and . hermitage. Here he resided during 66 years, and practised unheard of austerities ; he wore an iron jerkin, and is said to have worn out three ; he mingled ashes w ith the flour, from whence he made his bread, and lest it should be then too good, kept it three or four months before he ven- tured to eat it. In Avinter, as well as in summer, he passed whole nights up to his chin in water, at his devotions. Like St. Anthony, he was often haunted by fiends in various shapes ; sometimes in the form of beautiful damsels ; and so was visited by evil concu- piscence, which he cured by rolling himself among thorns and briers. When his body grew ulcerated, he increased the pain, by pouring salt into the wounds. Ry these uncommon penances, and the miracles which he is said to have w rought, he obtained no much renown, 9!2 CITY OF DURHAM, that lie was admitted into the calendar of the saints** He died in 1170. About the year 1118, the hermitage of Finchale was granted by bishop Flambard to the monastery of Durham, in free alms, subject to Godric's life, who should hold of them, and after his death, that it might be the habitation of such of their brethren as they should appoint. In the year 1180, bishop Pudsey granted a charter for a cell at Finchale ; but it does not appear to have been carried into effect till the year 1196, when Henry, the bishop's son, founded a priory for Benedictines, subordinate to the monastery at Durham, At the time of the dissolution (26 Hen. VIII.) it consisted of a prior and eight monks, and its revenues were valued at £146. 19. 2. per annum i It was soon afterwards granted to the See of Durham, and is at present appropriated to the support of one of the prebendaries. The ruins of Finchale Priory are beautifully situa- ted in a low vale, bordering the river, which flows in a circular direction beneath the cliffs of Cocken. They cover an extensive plot of ground ; but are so much delipidated, that the original appropriation of their respective parts can only be traced with difficulty* The church was in the form of a cross, but small, and apparently without aisles* The nave and part of the choir, seem to have been originally open at tlie * For a more detailed account of St. Godric, vide ** Legend of St. CulUbert." AND ITS ENVIRONS. 93 sides, as the space between the pillars, which supported the arches whereon the roof was sustained, are filled up with masonry of a different kind of stone, and in an inferior style of architecture to the remainder of the building : The arches of the windows that have been made in the parts filled up, are also of another shape. At the intersection of the nave and transept, are four massive circular columns, with octagonal capitals, forming a quadrangle of 21 feet. These ap- pear to have supported a low tower and spire on pointed arches, one of which was perfect within these few years, but is now fallen. In one of the columns are the remains of a winding staircase, that led to the upper part of the structure. The cloisters, refectory, and prior's lodging, seem to have ranged on the south of the nave ; the former surrounded an area about 24 yards square. The refectory was a handsome apart- ment, nearly twelve yards in length, and eight in breadth, having five windows to the south, and four to the north; beneath it was a spacious vault, now partly filled with rubbish, and supported in the centre by four plain octagonal pillars, from which the groins rise, and extend to the pilasters in the side walls. The ribs are of hewn stone ; and the workmanship of the whole vault extremely good. The vault is lighted by six small windows to the south, and is not above eight feet in height to the crowns of the arches, Miss Porter, in her celebrated romance, ** The Scottish Chiefs," relates, that Sir William Wallace escaped from Durham castle b^ a subterraneous pas^* 94 CITY OF DURHAM, sage, which extended from that place to Finchale ; this circumstance, we need not inform the historical reader, is a fiction; hut it is true, that a subterraneous passage, as mentioned by that novelist, did exist; many traces of it are still visible. This place has not unfrequently been called " Finclay," but, at what period it first received tliatname, it is difficult to dis- cover : Several old writings relating to the Priory are still extant. In a grant of lands to the Priory, dated 1356, we read ** Prior de Fynkhale.'' The ruins are in several parts covered with a profu- sion of ivy, " — which now with rude luxuriance bends Its tangled foliage through the cloister'd space ; O'er the green window's mould'ring height ascends And fondly clasps it with a last embrace." The remains of the Priory, in conjunction with the opposite cliff's of Cocken, rising with amazing grandeur, compose a peculiarly fine and interesting scene. Du- ring the summer months, frequent excursions are made to this delightful place, which cannot fail affording a high gratification to those who love the wild, the grand, and the sublime. No situation could have been found better adapted to monastic seclusion than the spot whereon the ruins are situated; all around is calm and peaceful, and well calculated to impress the superstitious mind with feelings of religious en-» thusiasm ; " Tu ne saurois marcher dans cet auguste lieu Tu ne peux faire un pas sans y trouver ton Dieu." AND ITS ENVIRONS. 05 The hermit Godric, and Henry de Pudsey, the founder, and many others of note, are reported to have been buried within the church. NE\ ILL'S CROSS. About a mile to the west of the city of Durham, are the remains of an old cross, called NeviU's Cross, erected by Ralph Lord Nevill, to commemorate a remarkable battle fought here on the 17th Oct. 1346, in the reign of Edward III. between the English and Scotch armies, called the battle of Red Hills, or, as it has subsequently been termed from the above erection, the battle of Nevill's Cross. In that year, David II. king of. Scotland, having collected a powerful army of 30,000 men, prepared to invade England, and entered that country by the western march, shewing tokens of a bloody mind in his outset, by putting the garrison of Liddell tower to the sword, and marking his progress through Cumber- land with slaughter and desolation. Having advanced to the county af Dtirham, he approached the city. The queen of England (Philippa) in the absence of the king, summoned the prelates and military tenants to attend her at York, where measures were concei'ted for opposing the invaders, and a body of troops, amounting to 16,000 men, were assembled with the greatest expedition; whilst David with his army lay 06 CITY OF DURHAM, at Beaurq)aire,* the associate Lords assembled in Auckland Park. Douglas, with a chosen troop, whilst reconnoitering the English, was engaged near Mer- rington, and escaped to tlie king with great danger. The English army was drawn up in four divisions : Lord Henry Percy commanded the first, supported by the Earl of Angus, the bishop of Durham, and several northern nobles : The second body was led by * In the Chroniqiie of William de Pakington, is the follow- ing narrative : " About this tyme, by the meane of Philip Valoys, king of France, David king of Scottes enterid yn to the noith marches, spoiling and burning, and toke by force the Pyle of Lydelle, and causid the noble knight, Walter Selby, captayne of it, to be slayne afore his owne face, not suffering him so much as to be confessed. And after he cam to the coste of Dyrham, and lay tliere at a place callid Beaurepaire, a manor of the Prior of Duresme, set in a parke ; and thither resorted many of the cuntery aboute, compounding with hym to spare their groundes and manurs. Then William Souch, archebishop of York, the counte of Anegos, Mounseir John de Montbraye, Mounseir Henry de Percy, Mounseir Rafe de Neville, Mounseir Rafe de Hastings, Mounseir Thomas de Rokeby,then Sheriff of Yorkshire, and other knightes and good men of the northe, marchid towards the Scottes, and first lay yn Akeland parke, and in the morning encountrid with Syr William Duglas, killing of his banne 200 menne ; and he with much payne, escaped to ]5eaurepaire, to king David, declaring the cuming of the Eng- lish host. Wher then king David issued and foughte upon a more nere to Duresme tonne, and there was taken prisoner, and with him Syr William Duglas, the Count of Menethe, and the Counte of Fyfe, andgreate numbre of the communes of Scotland slayn. The king, because he was wondid in the face, he was caried to Werk, and there he 1yd, and thens brought to London." AN© ITS ENVIRONS. 9t tlie archbishop of York> accompanied by the bishop of Carlisle, and the Lords Nevill and Hastings : The bishop of Lincoln, Lord Mowb|*ay, and Sir Thomas Rokesby, led the third division : And at the head o( the fourth, was Edward Baliol> supported by the archbishop of Canterbury, the Lord Roos, and the Sheritf of Northumberland v Each division consisted of 4,000 men, and the archers and men At arms were distributed through th^ whole corps* The Scotch army was drawn out in thi-ee divisions : The first was led by the high Steward of Scotland> and the Earl o^ March i The Earl of Murray, and Lord Douglas com- manded the second : And the third , consisting of choice troops, in whiiih were incorporated the flower of the Scottish nobility and gentry, sustained by the French auxiliaries, was commanded by the king in person; with much heroic ardour> the Scotch king ordered the trumpets to sound the charge j The high Steward, who led the van, being galled by the English archers, rushed on with such impetuous fury, that he threw them into confusion, and drove them back on Loi*d Henry Percy's division : And the Scotch, pushing oh vigorously M'ith their broad swords and battle axes, broke them so much, that if relief had not instantly been sent them, they would have been put to the i-out; but Baliol, rushing in with a body of horse, threw the Scotch battallion into confusion, and gave the English time to rally and regain their ground, whilst the high Steward was obliged to retreat and reform his dis' tracted array : In this manoeuvre he is said to have K Da CITY or DURHAM^ shewn great generalship, performing the evolutions m a masterly manner, and with little loss. Baliol with equal skill, gave his troops hreath, made no pursuit, and when least suspected, rapidly charged the king's division in flank, whilst they fought man to man in front : Unrelieved and distressed with this complicated battle, the king fought desperately, repeatedly bringing back his flying troops to the charge, and encouraging them by his example and exhortations : Ashamed to de- sert their prince in such jeopardy, a brave phalanx threw themselves around him, and fought till their numbers were reduced to httle more than 80. In this desperate state, and bleeding with several wounds, David scorned to ask for quarter, hoping to be relieved** At length * A ti-adltion is curicnt in Ihc rduntiy, thslt king David precipitately fled from the lield of battle, after the discom- fttuve of his army, and cjoncealed himself under the bridge at Aldiu Graiige, -where he was made prisoner. This, however, is obviously incorrect, as the apparent antiquity of the bridge does not in the svnall^st degree warrant so extremely doubtful a circumstance. In Kymer's FiEdera, it is affirmed, " That tlie Scotch king fought v, ith great bravery, or rather desperation ; and was taken alive with difficulty, and that though he had two spears hanging in his body, his leg desperately wounded, and being disarmed, his sword having been beat out of his hand, disdained captivity, and provoked the English by o})probrious language to kill him. When John Copeland advised him to yield, he struck him on the face with his gauntlet so fiercely, that he knocked out two of his teeth." All the old historians who have narjatcd the particulars of this memorable engage- ment, speak most unequivocally as to his undaunted bravery, and make not the slightest allusion relative to his conceahneat fubsequently to the battle, \vhich certainly very satisfactorily «;vince>. lh<: fullucv of such a tradition. AND ITS ENVIRONS. 09 resistance was vain, a tumulliious multitude, with shouts of victory, rushed upon him, and he was made prisoner to John Copeland, a Northumbrian esquire. The division under Douglas and Murray, struck with a panic at the fate of the royal legion, were soon routed. Murray died on the field, Douglas was made prisoner, and few of the inferior officers escaped the sword. This battle lasted only three hours, beginning at nine in the morning, and the victory being declared by sound of trumpet at noon. The loss of the Scotch was estimated at 15,000 men ; the chief of whom were Earls Murray and Strathern, the Lord Constable David Hay, the I.ord Marshall Edward Keith, toge- ther with the Lords Chancellors and Chamberlain of Scotland, the Lords Philip Meldrum, John Stewart, and Alan Stewart, his brother. Sir Alexander Bothwell, the king's Standard Bearer, Sir Alexander Ramsay, and others of high rank. Among the prisoners were the Earls of Fife, Sutherland, Monteith, Carrick, and Wigton, the Lord Douglas, tlie bishops of St. Andrew and Aberdeen, James Douglas, Sir Malcolm Fleming, and others of distinction. The number of the Eng- lish slain is not correctly known, but it was very inconsiderable. On queen Philippa demanding the king of Scotland of John Copeland, he replied, that he would not deli- ver his prisoner to any man or woman except his own lord : At this time Edward III. was at Calais, and on bearing of the conduct of Copeland, he ordered him L.cfC. 100 CITY OF DURHAM, to repair thitlier, which he did immediately, havi^ secured his captive in a castle in Northumberland. The king, on seeing liim, thanked him for his bravery „ made him a knight banneret, and settled on him £100. a year in lands, and then told him to return Lome and deliver his prisoner to the queen. David Bruce was imprisoned eleven years in the tower, when he was ransomed by Robert Stuart, his nephew, for the sum of 100,000 marks sterling.* The ground where the battle of Nevill's Cross was fought, is hilly, and in many parts very steep, parti- cularly towards the river. Near it, in a deep vale, is a small mount or hillock, cajled tlie Maiden's Bower,, on which was displayed on the point of a spear, *' the Holy Corporaxcloth,t whereAvith St. Cuthbert covered the chalice when he used to say mass :" From this place, some monks of Durham gave sjotice of the- victory to their brethren stationed on the great tower of the cathedral, who immediately proclaimed it to the inhabitants of the city, by singing Te Dettm ; and afterwards, the prior and monks, accompanied by Kalph Lord Nevill, and John his son. Lord Percy ^ and many other nobles, proceeded to the cathedral, and joined in a solemn thanksgiving to God and holy $t.. Cuthbert, for the conquest obtained that day. The • Vide Froisart. — Baker's Chronicles, t This was done in obedience to a vision wliich appeared to John Fossour, prior of Durhann, the night preceding the battle, commanding him to take the holy eorporax clotlij and suspend it iu the manner mentiooed above ^ AND ITS ENVIRONS. 101 victory was annually commemorated by the choristers singing Te Deum on the great tov/er of the cathedral, till the occurence of the civil wars, when the custom was discontinued, but again revived at the Restoration, and observed till witliin a very few years. The cross, erected by Lord Nevill, stood near the road side,* but * On the west side of the city of Durham, where two roads pass each other, a most famous and elegant cross of stone-work was erected to the honour of God, for the victory there obtained, known by the name of Nevill's Cross, and built at the sole cost of Lord Ralph Nevill ; which cross had seven steps about it, eveiy way sqiiaied to the socket wherein the stalk of the cross stood, which socket was fastened to a laige square stone ; the sole or bottom stone being of a great thickness, viz. a yard and a half every way : This stone was the eighth step. The stalk of the cross was in length three yards and a half up to the boss, having eight sides all of one piece ; from the socket it was fixed into the boss above, into which boss the stalk was deeply soldered with lead. In the midst of the stalk in every second square, was the Nevill's Cross ; a saltire in a scutcheon being Lord Nevill's arms, finely cut; and at every corner of the socket was a picture of one of the four Evangelists, finely set forth and carved. The boss at the top of the stalk was an octangular stone, finely cut and bordered, and most curiously wrought ; and in every square of the nether side, was Nevill's Cross in one square, and the bull's head in the next, so in the same reci- procal order about the boss. On the top of the boss was a stalk of stone, (being a cross a little higher than the rest) whereon was cut, on both sides of the stalk, the picture of our Saviour Christ, crucified ; the picture of the Blessed Virgin on one side, and St. John the Evangelist on the other ; both standing on the top of the boss. All which pictures were most artificially wrought together, and finely carved out of the entire stone ; some parts thereof thorough carved work, both on the east and west sides of the cross, with a cover of stone likewise over their heads, being all mc3t finely and curiously wrought tojjii- K 3 102 CITY OF DtlKHAM, wai» defaced and broken down in 1589. The only remains of it is an octagonal stone ; the pillar affixed in it is no part of the original erection, but appears to have beea placed there in more modern times, for the purpose of a^mile stone. In Hutchinson^s History, is an imaginary drawing of the cross, and by a most unaccountable^ mistake, the octagonal stone, the only remaining relic of the cross, has been omitted by the designer., BEARPARK. To the north west of Nevill's Cross, and about two miles from Durham, on a pleasant eminence, rising above the river Brune, or Browney,, at Bearpark, formerly called Beaiirepaire,. are the remains of an ancient mansion, or pleasure-house, which belonged to the priors of Durham monastery, and have been thus described : ** The chapel is thirteen paces long, and eigut wide ; the east window consists of three UghtSy circular at the top, and very plain; there ara three windows on each side, each divided by a mullion into two lights, their framing on tlie outside square. The wall is strengthened with a buttress of neat hewn stone w ork between each window, and a cornice runs round the building of the zig-zag figure. There is a door on the north side of the chapel from ther out of the same hollow stone ; which cover had a covering of lead. It remained till the year 1589, when the same was broken down and defaced by some lewd and wicked persons^ Dalies' Rights and Monumcnh^. AND ITS ENVIRONS. lOU the court. The walls of the chapel in the inside are ornamented with a regular succession of small round columns of pilasters, belted in the midst, the capitals filled with a garland of open cut foliage of delicate work, from whence spring pointed arches ; three pi- lasters and two arches in each space between the windows ; the west end is equally finished with pilasters and arches, and there is a small window in the centre. At each side of the east windows, is a pedestal for a sta- tue of considerable size. The apartment under the chap&l i« lighted by small square windows ; but as the floor of the chapel is gone, it is not easy to determine how it was constructed. Adjoining to the chapel, to the west^ is a long building, the two gables of which are stand- ing, having a large window of six fights to the south ; this was most probably the refefctory. On the ncwrth, the remains of a building, twenty paces in lengtii, lighted to the east by three windows, which we con- jecture, was the dormitory. There is a door case standing, which has been the entrance into the garden or some chief court, with the arms of the See in the^ centre." At present, however, the remains are so- ruined and confused, as to render them totally indis- tinct. Beaurepaire was originall}' part of the possessions of the See of Durham, but was obtained in exchange, about the year 1250, by prior Bertram, who erected a small house and chapel here. Prior Hugh de Dar- lington improved the buildings, and inclosed the park. Thii? beautiful retreat >\ as pillaged and destroyed by the 104 CITY OF DURHAM, ETC. Scots in the reign of Edward the Second, and again in the year 1346, previous to the battle of NevilFs Cross, at which period Beaurepaire was held by prior Fossour, who is supposed to have rebuilt the house and chapel. After the Dissolution, the manor was appropriated to the support of the Dean and Chapter, and now forms part of the Dean's estate. Beaure- paire (as alread}^ mentioned,) was rendered memorable from the circumstance of David, king of §cots en- camping here with his army, before the celebrated battle of Red Hills, or Nevill's Cross. ^iV ACCOUNT SEATS AND PRINCIPAL VILLAaES^ -WITHIN A FEW MILES OF THE CITY OF DURHAM. OSWALD HOUSE. About a mlle and a half to the south of Durham^ close by the turnpike road, on the right, is Oswald House, a small, but handsome modern built mansion, the seat of Thomas Wilkinson, esq.; it is now (1824) occupied by Thomas Lloyd Wharton, esq.: About half a mile further, on the same side of tlie road, is BURNHALL, Formerly the seat of the Smiths; by one of whom, Geo. Smith, esq. many improvements were made ; it is now the property of Bryan John Salvin, esq. The house is situated in a recluse spot, on the borders of the small river Browney, and is surroimded with beautiful plantations of oak, &c. Mr. Salvin has 106 SEATS AND VILLAGES. lately begun the erection of a new mansion, upon a beautifully elevated situation, about 300 yards from the old residence. CROXDALE PIALL. To the left of Sunderland Bridge, and about three miles south from Durham, is Croxdale Hall, the seat of W. T. Salvin, esq. This mansion occupies an elevated situation near the banks of the Wear, and commands a rich prospect towards the south west; the pleasure grounds, with the adjacent woods and plantations, are extremely pleasant. The manor of Croxdale came into the hands of the Salvins prior to the year 1474, and has ever since continued in their possession ; a circumstance hardly to be paralleled in the history of any family in the county.* Round the western extremity of the pleasure grounds, flows a small rivulet, named Croxdale Beck, the channel of which is a romantic dell, so deep and narrow, that the sun's rays are nearly excluded through the whole year; and in the days of superstition, it was thought a fit abode for evil spirits. This idea occasioned the erection of a cross, which afterwards gave name to the adjacent lands, called Croixdale, in several old writings. Croxdale Scar, a neighbouring chff, com- * In the inscription upon the monument of Jerrard Salvin, in St. Oswald's church, he is said to be, vicesimus primus (sine intermissione) gusdem nominis fuit et loci. He died in the year 16()3. William Thomas, the present possessor, is the twenty* iifth in uninterrupted succe.fsion^ SEATS AND VILLAGES. 107 mands a very beautiful and extensive prospect of the valley towards the west, through which the Wear is seen meandering to an extent of several miles. The vale of Butterby, belted round by the waters of the Wear, is also beheld from this spot, besides other pleasing views on its different sides. SHINCLIFFE, &c. About one mile and a half south east from Durham^ after crossing the river Wear by a bridge of three arches, is the village of Shincliffe, containing 70 houses, and 367 inhabitants. Shincliffe is nearly surrounded i)y a well cultivated and productive public garden. Adjoining tathis village, is the pleasant seat of John Prince, esq. called Shincliffe Hall. — Passing further -?n, and about five miles from Durham, is Coxhoe Hall, the seat of Anth. Wilkinson, esq. SEDGEFIELD. At the distance of eleven miles from Durham, on the turnpike road, is Sedgefield, a very ancient place, which, from the salubrity of the air, and the longevity of its inhabitants, has been denominated the Mont- pelier of the North. Sedgefield is situated 256 miles from London, and contains, according to the returns of the late act, 1,268 inhabitants, and 298 houses. The gentlemen of the Lambton and Sedgefield Hunt j have, for the last few years, hunted from this place for upwards of six •weeks each season. 108 SEATS ANB VILLAGES. HARDWICKE HALL. About half a mile to the west of Sedgefield, i« Hardwicke Hall, one of the seats of Wm. Russell> esq. Mv P. ; it is at present (1824) occupied by Alex. Macdonald, esq. This place is justly celebrated as being one of the most beautiful places in the county ; where, as Pope says, " Gods might wander With delight." The mansion is an irregular structure, erected by the late Matthew Russell, esq. in which convenience has been more studied than elegance. The grand Terrace is a fine gravel walk, about 660 paces in length, with a descent to a circular bason of water ; on the banks of which is the Bathing house, with an open portico of the Doric order in front leading to the bath, on the sides of which are apartments to breakfast and repose in t From this place, a winding path leads to the Lake, a fine sheet of water, covering nearly 44 acres, and united with a Serpentine River or Canal) which winds through the grounds. On the side of the canal is a building called the Library , in the front of which is an artificial Cascade ; but the dashing of the water can scarcely be heard, though close by the feet. The interior of the Library is furnished with a splendid collection o^ painted books, and the windows filled with painted glass, displaying " The likeness of things so foul to behold, That what they are is not fit t6 be told.** SEATS AND VILLAGES, 109 On a circular eminence, in a pleasatit meadow, is a quadrangular building, with an open colonnade, called the Temple, ornamented with eight busts of the most superior poets, placed in niches, on the outside : The interior has an octagonal dome, decorated with paintings by Bornese, father and son ; between the windows, iu recesses, are medallions of the four Seasons in stucco, by Cartisi; and the floor is inlaid with different co- loured marbles in Mosaic work. The Banqueting Homey is a superb building, of the Corinthian order, containing one principal apartment; the ceiling and sides of which are decorated with paintings, by Hay- man, with some elegant stucco work and rich gilding, together with busts of Palladio, Vitruvius, and Inigo Jones, &c* The Ruin, is an artificial semblance of a dismantled castle, with a round tower entire ; from the summit of which, as well as from different points in the grounds, are many fine and extensive prospects. SHERBURN HOtJSE, ELEMORE HALL, &c. About three miles east from Durham, is S her burn House, the seat of Tho. Hopper, esq. situated in the village of Sherburn. It was some time ago in the poS* session of the Tempest family. The village of Sherburn is pleasantly situated, but contains nothing l*emarkable. Elemore Hall, the seat of Geo. Baker, esq. is about five miles east from Durham. To the north east of Elemore Hall, in a recluse situation, is Hetton House, the seat of the Hon. John Lyon, but at present fl824) L 14#t SEATS AND VILLAGES. occupied by Anthony Wilkinson, esq* To the east of it is the village of Hetton-in-the-Hole j wliich, in con- sequence of the opening of an exteiisive colliery in the immediate vicinity, has become extremely populous. The sinking of this colliery, (which is called ♦* The Hetton Colliery,") was begun on the 19th of December, 1820, and for the space of three months tliere were pumped from the pits, by the main and machine en- gines, 3,000 gallons of water per minute, from the depth of sixty yards. The main coal was sunk to on the 3d of September, 1822, twenty months from the commencement J and the Huttorij or Walls End seam , on the 6th of January, 1823; the former at a depth of 218, and the latter of 290 yards. It is the general opinion that the quality of tlie different seams of coal is equal to any on the river Wear. The principal proprietor in this concern is Tlie Hon. Arch. Cochrane. HOUG HTON-LE-S PRING. About a mile and a half to the north of Hetton, is Houghton-le-Spring, an extensive village, situated at the head of a pleasant vale, opening to the west, and sheltered from the bleak winds of the north east by h chain of hills. Formerly the ignorance of the inhabitants of this place was so great, that even on the accession of queen Mary, the proclamations issued by Edward the VI. ordering a change of worship in the respective churches, are strongly reported to have beeii unhcard-of by the inhabitants. The first mate** SEATS AND VILLAGES. Ill rial advances towards improvement, were made by the benevolent and pious Bernard Gilpin, who was presented to the rectory by bishop Tunstall, and whose boundless charity, and meritorious exertions to en- lighten his fellow creatures, obtained him the pre- eminent appellation of the Northern Apostle, Mr. Gilpin was descended from a very respectable family, and was born at Kentmire, in Westmoreland, in the year 1517. His early years were passed at a public gram- mar school, whence, at the age of sixteen, he was removed to Queen's College, Oxford. Here his great progress in scholastic divinity, and the branches of abstruse learning connected with it, attracted general attention, and occasioned his appointmeiil to supply the College newly founded by Cardinal Wolsey. Having been bred to the belief of the Roman Catholic religion, he for some tinle continued steady in his adherence to that faith, and even held disputations in its defence ; but the eloquence and superior knowledge of Peter Martyr, with whom he last argued, induced him to give up the cause : He owned publicly that he could not maintain it, and determined to enter into no more controversies till he gained full information of the subject. He afterwards communicated his doubts to bishop Tunstall, his great-uncle by the female side, and as they were in no degree undiminished after some years further study, he determined, by the advice of that prelate, to visit the Continent, that he might satisfy his mind by conversing with the most eminent Protestant and Catholic professors. His principal 113 SEATS AND VILLAGES. objection to the scheme was, that it would prove too expensive : But as to that, Tunstail wrote to him, that his living (Norton) would do something towards his maintenance, and he would supply deficiencies. This, however, did not remove the difficulty : Mr. Gilpin*s notions of clerical duty were so strict, that he thought no excuse could justify non-residence, for the consi- derable time that he intended to be abroad. He could not, therefore, think of supporting himself with any part of the income of his living ; and resolved, if he staid the shorter time, to rely upon his own frugal management of the little money he had, and to leave the rest to the bishop's generosity. Accordingly, he resigned his living in favour of a worthy man, with whose abilities and character he was well acquainted, and then set out for London, to receive his last orders from the bishop, and to embark. The accovmt of his resignation reached town before him, and gave Tunstal, who was anxious for his kinsman's thriving in the world, great concern. ** Here are your friends/' he observed, " endeavouring to provide for you, and you are taking every method to frustrate their wishes ; but be warned, by these courses, you will presently bring yourself to a morsel of bread." Mr. Gilpin begged the bishop would attribute what he had done to a scrupulous conscience, which would not permit him to act otherwise. On the Continent, Mr. Gilpin became acquainted with the most celebrated controversialists of the age, and, by attending tlie most distinguished colleges and SEATS AND VILLAGES. 113 schools, obtained a thorough acquaintance with pole- mics; yet, as his researches were directed solely to the cause of truth, and not to the substantiation of received opinions, he now became a convert to the principles of the Reformation ; and, in the year 1556, returned to England ; though the persecution against Protestants under the bigotted Mary, was still raging in all its horrors. Soon after his arrival, bishop Tun- stall advanced him to the arch-deaconry of Durham, to which the rectory of Easington was annexed ; but these benefices he was obliged to resign, through the strong opposition raised by the Catholic clergy, by whose influence a charge of heresy, consisting of thir- teen articles, was preferred against him, but dismissed by the friendship of Tunstall, who soon afterwards presented him witli the rectory of Houghton-le-Spring. — When this parish was thus committed to his direction, the ignorance of the inhabitants was extreme ; but Mr. Gilpin, whose resolution to undertake, was equalled by his industry to accomplish, soon effected a consi- derable change both in their morals and conduct. His assiduity in the discharge of the duties of his function was exemplary. When he first took upon himself the care of a parish, he laid it down as a maxim, to do all the good in his power there ; and his whole conduct was^ one straight line, drawn to this point. He set out with making it his endeavour to gain the affection of his parishioners : Many of his papers shew how material a point he considered this. To succeed in it,, however^ he used no servile compliances ; he studied L a 114 SKATS AND VILLAGES. that his means should be good, as well as his end. His behaviour was free, without levity ; oldiging, "without meanness; and insinuating, without art. He condescended to the weak, bore with the passionate, and complied with the scrupulous; and, in a truly apostolic manner, "became all things to all men." To his humanity and courtesy^ was added an unwearied application to tke instructicH of those under his care. He was not satisfied with tl)e advice he gave In public^ but used to tecU in private ; and induced his parislv- ioners to come to hira with their doubts and difficulties. His manner towards those he thought well disposed, was most engaging ; na}^ his reproof was so conducted, that it seldom gave offence, the becomiug gentleness with which it was urged, making it ahvays appear the effect of friendship.. Thus, with unceasing assiduity did he employ himself in admonishing the vicious, and encouraging the well-disposed ; by which means, in a few years, he made a gieater change in the neigh- bourhood, than could Mell be imagined : He attended to every thing wliich he conceived might be of service to his parishioners. He was assiduous to prevent all law-suits; and his hall was often thronged with people, who came to submit their differences to hi.s judgment; for though he was not much acquainted with law, he could decide equitably,, and that satisfied ; nor could his sovereign's commission have given him more weight than his own character. During the early part of Mr. Gilpin's residence at Houghton, his reiigicus opinion?, though unfolded with SKATS AND VILLAGE?. 116 extreme reserve, Avere made the foundation of a second accusation before bishop Tiinstall, who again, however, found means to protect him : But his enemies were not to be thus silenced, and thirty-two articles were exhibited as charges against hira before Bonner, bishop of London, who gave orders for his immediate appre- hension, and canvevance to the metropolis. Gilpin, who knew the implacable zeal of this bigoted prelate, prepared for martyrdom ; but an accident, by which his leg was broken, retarded his journey ; and before he was again able to travel, the death of queen Mary occasioned his being liberated, and thus released hini from pei'seeution. The hospitality and charity of Mr. Gilpin, were only bounded by his means ; and the latter, regulated by the most exact economy, enabled him to execute more, than less strict accomptants could imagine possible. His hospitable manner of living was the admiration of the whole country. Every Sunday, from Michaelmas till Easter, was a sort of public day w ith him : And during this season, he expected to see all his parisliioners and their families. For their re- ception, he had three tables well covered : The first, for gentlemen ; the second, for husbandmen and far- mers; and the third, for day 'labourers. When he was absent from home, no alteration was made in his family expences ; the poor were fed as usual, and his neighbours entertained. He spent in his family, every fortnight, forty bushels of corn, twenty bushels of malt, and a whole ox; besides a proportionable quantity c4' 116 SEATS AND VILLAGES. other kinds of provision. Strangers and travellers found in bis house a cheerful reception ; all were wel- come that came ; and even their horses had so much care taken of them, that it was humourously said, that, " if a horse was turned loose in any part of the country, it would immediately make its way to the Rector of Houghton's." So extensive was the fame of his hos- pitality and virtues, that even the great Lord Burleigh condescended to visit him, on his return from trans- acting some state business in Scotland ; and when taking his leave, told him, in all the warmth of sincerity,. ** He had heard great things in his commendation^ but had now seen what far exceeded all that he had heard." The endeavours of Mr. Gilpin, to promote and esta- blish the happines of his fellow-creatures, were not, however, confined to his cure. At the period in which he lived, Redesdale and Tynedale, in Northumber- land, of all barbarous places in the north, were looked upon to be the most barbarous ; being the common theatre where the Scots and English were continually acting their bloody scenes. Inhabited hy a kind of desperate banditti, rendered fierce and active by con- stant rapine, warfare, and alarms, they lived by theft, and used to plunder on both sides of the barrier. Tn this dreadful country, where no man would then ever travel that could help it, he never failed to spend some part of the year. The success of his disinterested exertions was very great; as his readiness to perform good offices was equal to his ability to give advice, and SEATS AND VILLAGES. 117 his person became revered and sacred among the most desperate of the ferocious bands, amidst whom he ventured ; and a thief, who had stolen his horses, re- turned them on discovering they were the property of Bernard Gilpin. Among the various benevolent purposes to which he appropriated his income, was the building and en- dowment of a Grammar School in Houghton, which still flourishes, and has given education to many emi- nent men. He had fitted up part of his own house for the reception and tuition of scholars ; and was at the expence of paying for the education and maintenance of others, whom he placed at the houses of different parishioners. Many of the children, whose early instruction he had thus provided for, he afterwards sent to the Universities, and there either wholly sup- ported them, or furnished whatever assistance the circumstances of the students required. The death of this truly estimable man was preceded by an unfortunate occurrence, that considerably added to the infirmities of declining age. While crossing the market-place at Durham, he was run at by an ox, and so greatly bruised by the violence with which the animal pushed him down, that his life was for some time in extreme danger ; and though he recovered sufficiently to leave his chamber, yet he never regained his former strength, and continued lame to the end of his days. He died in March, 1583, in the sixty-sixth year of his age. At the west end of his monument in Houghton church; is the following inscription, in raised llf SEATS AND VILLAGES. characters, divided by an escutcheon, displaying a boar resting against a tree, with a crescent cut on the side of the boar. BERNERDS GILPIN RE CTOR HV OBIIT QVA RTO DIE M ARTII AN. Jvs ECCLi^ \y DOM. 1583. The Church, one of the most considerable parochial structures within the district, stands at the west end of the village, within a spacious burial ground, skirted by rows of ancient sycamores. This fabric is in the form of a cross, and embattled, with a square central tower, terminating in a spire, springing from four arches at the intersection of the traasepts and the nave. A porch projects from the chancel. Two regular aisles are formed by clustered pillars, on each side of the nave. The great west window is of handsome work, divided into five lights ; but its effect is in a great measure lost by the erection of a modern gallery and organ loft. There are several effigies, and a great many monuments of the ancient families of Bellasis, Oonyers, Lambton, Lilburn, and Ironside. The Rectorial Mansion is a handsome stone edifice, and is occupied by the Rev. Edward South Tlmrlow, M. A. who is the present incumbent. The Grammar- School is a convenient building, stand- ing in the church-yard, with the master's house ad- joining. The Rev. Wm. Rawes, M. A. is the present master. Over the door is this inscription; SEATS AND VILLAGES. 119 SCHOLA DE KEEPIER* AB ELIZ. ANGLIC REGNINA AO M.DLXXIV FVNDATA EX PROCVRATIONE I. HEATH, AR. ET B. GILPIN, RECT. ECCL. HOVGHTO. C. H.t M. B. ALVMNVS POSVIT A^ M.DCCXXIV. On a line with the School to the south, is an Hospital for the reception of six poor people, who have each annually, a certain sum, arising from different bequests, allowed for their maintenance. Houghton-le-Spring is six and a half miles from Durham, and contains, according to the late census, 2,905 inhabitants, and 411 houses, many of which are large and respectable edifices. Increase in ten years, 104 houses, and 1,549 inhabitants. ALDIN GRANGE, ESHE HALL, &c. Near two miles west of the city of Durham, is Aldin Grange, the property of Mr. Taylor. And about two miles further is Eshe Hall, the ancient seat of the family of Smythe. In its vicinity is Flass Hall, the property of Lady Peat (late Miss Smith) * Kepier, near Durham, was the seat of the Heaths, and it is conjectured that this was called Kepier School in compliment to that family. t Christopher Hunter, of t)urham. 120 SEATS AND VILLAGES. a very wealthy and eccentric lady. And near it, to the west, is a Roman Catholic Chapel, a building of recent erection. USHAW COLLEGE* About four miles west of Durham, is iJshaw Col- lege, erected about the year 1807. This extensive and splendid building, which is in the form of a square, is for the education of the Roman Catholic youth, and is sufficiently large to accomodate one hundred and fifty students, with the professors, and foul* From Durham, is the village of Brancepeth,* containing 68 houses, and 539 inhabitants. In the vicinity of this parish, there is a medicinal spring of the vitriolic kind, and another is strongly sulphureous* BRANCEPETH-CASTLE, AND CFIURCK. To the south west of the last mentioned village, ii Brancepeth Castle, the magnificent residence of Wm» Russell, esq. M. P. This Castle was originally erected by the Bulmers, a family of great antiquity, and Vvho were seated here for many generations, but from what period is not known : On failure of issue male m Bertram Bulmer, his only daughter Emma married * Brancepeth (i. e. Brami's Path) is said to have derived its hame from a i?m«7i of immense size, which^ "in olden time," laid waste the lands in its neighbourhood. After committing innu- merable ravages, it was destroyed by Hodge of Ferry, to the rto small joy of the country people, to whom it had indeed been « great boi'e I The Muse may sing how in a northern -wood, In olden time, a bristled brawn was seen Of giant size, which long the force withstood Of knight well arm'd with club or dagger keen. And how, when Dian held her nightly reign, And silvery moon-beams slept on Vedra's breast, The monster scour'd along the silent plain ; And, roaring loud, disturb'd the peasant's rest. Supcrstiiions nf the .Vor^A. M tU SEATS AND VILLAGES, Geoffrey Nevill, the grandson of Gilbert de Nevill, a Norman, who came into England with the conqueror i They had issue a son Henry, and a daughter Isabel, Henry the son, in the 17th year of king John, having been in arms with the barons, gave an hundred marks to regain the king's favour; promising future fidelity, and as a security against a relapse, he engaged to forfeit all his possessions; and for performance of his vow, he delivered two hostages, together with his castle of Brancepeth, to be held at the king^s pleasure, Henry died without issue in the eleventh year of king Henry III. A. D. 1227, v.hereupon his sister Isabel became his sole heir. She married Robert Fitz Mai-* dred. Lord of Iiaby,by whom she had a son, Geoffrey, who, in honour of his mother, so great an inheritrix, assumed the surname of Nevill ; from whom sprang that branch, whose principal seat was for many ages afterwards at Raby ; and whose desceudanls were Earls of Westmorland. The castle and lordship of Brancepeth continued in the Nevill family till forfeited by Charles, Earl of AVestmoriand ; when, by an interposition of the influence of the crown, parliament thought proper to take it from the bishop of Durham, to whom by right of jurisdiction it belonged; and by statute in the thirteenth of queen Elizabeth, it was vested in the crown, under the flimsy pretence of indemnifying government against the heavy expences incurred by the rebellion. An inquisition was taken by the crown officers soon after the attainder, under ^hich the castle, with its several appendages are SEATS AND VILLAGES. 128r noted. Another survey was taken by inquisition in the reiga of king James I. previous to the settlement of Prince Charles's household ; upon Charles coming to the crown, the forfeited estates were by letters patent, in the year 1629, granted to certain citizens of ■London, upon trust to sell the same ; and on the 25th of April, 1633, they conveyed the castle and manor of Brancepeth, with their appendages, to Lady Middleton, Abraham Crosselis, and John Jones, who, on the 24tli of May, 1636, conveyed the same to Ralph Cole, of Newcastle, esq. in trust for his son Nicholas Cole, of the same place, merchant, (afterwards Sir Nicholas.) His son Sir Ralph Cole, the 19th of April, 1701, in consideration of £16,800. paid, together with an an- nuity of £500, secured to himself for life, and £200, to his wife for life, if she survived him, conveyed the castle and estates to Sir Henry Bellasyse, knight, who died 1719, aet, 77. He left an only son, William Bellasyse, esq. who died the lOtli of February, 1769, leaving an only daughter, who departed this life on the 6th of April, 1774, and by her will devised the castle, manor, and estates to her kinsman, the Earl of Fauconberg, who sold the same to John Tempest, esq. : On that occasion, by advertisement, it appeared that the estate contains 4,600 acres, all of freehold tenure, and the rental was then £2,134. 8. 4. per annum : It was afterwards purchased by William Russell, esq. and is now in the possession of his grand- son, William Russell, esq. M. P. 124- SEATS AND VILLAGES. The castle of Brancepeth has been strongly fortified, and defended by a cantonment of towers. Leland in his Itin. vol. 1. p. 62. 71, &c. says — *' Strongly set and buildid, and hath 2 courtes of high bnilding.- — There is a little mote that hemmith a great piece of the first court. — In this court be 3 towers of logging, and three smaule adoriiaments. — The pleasure of the castelle is in the 2 court, and entering into it by a great toure, I saw in schochin, in the fronte of it a lion rampaunt. On the soutlie west part of the castelle cummith doune a little bek out o' the rokkes and hilles not far of. Sum j^ay that Rafe Nevile, the first Erie of Westmerland, buildid much of this house, A. D. 1398. The Erie that now is hath set a new peace of m ork to it." Hutchinson, describing the castle as it was in his dny, and prior to the late alteration, says, ** Within the works is a spacious area, whieh you enter from the north by a gate with a portcullis, and defended by two square towers. The area is of no regular figure, and the works which surround it, though very strong, have no distinguishing marks, by which a conjecture can be formed as to their age : The parts now inhabited lie on the south west side of the area, and appear to have been connected by works of various ages ; the original plan in that part seems i& have consisted of four distinct square towers, whose angles project as buttresses, with a small turret at the top of each angle, hanging on corbies, open at the sides, and not in front. From the gate, on the east side, is a long- stretch of wall, with a parapet, which communicate^ SEATS AND VILLAGES. 125 with a large square tower, having projecting angles, turreted like those described; from this tower the wall communicates, at no great distance, with another large tower similar to the last, and thence the wall stretches to the inhabited part of the castle, broken only by a small turret, square in front, but octagonal towards the court : From the gate on the west is a high wall, the parapet in many parts hangs on corbies ; where the wall forms angles, it is garnished with small square turrets, on the area side supported by an arch ; and in the floor of each is a square aperture to receive materials from persons below, whereby the guard should annoy those who assailed the wall. To- wards the north and east the castle has been defended by a moat ; to the south and west the walls rise from a rock, nearly forty feet in height, watered by a small brook. The hills to the west are lofty. It is probable the whole fortress consisted originally of a race or series of towers, of similar form; for the west wall and angular turrets are much more modern than the fortifications on the east. If this conjecture is allowed, then the fortress would contain a cantonment of eight large towers, exclusive of those defending the gateway. One matter, which seems necessary to observe, points out the great antiquity of this castle, that our records furnish us with no licence for fortifying and embattling; which is not the case of any other in the county, except Barnard-castle : And so early as the 27th year of bishop Hatfield, it is stiled in the records, the b:arony of Brancepeth." via SEATS AND VILLAGES. The old castle, with the surrovmiliiig wall was almost entirely pulled down, and a new one was begun during the life of the present possessoi*'sliiglilv respected, and much lamented father, the late Matthew Russell, esq. M. P. which, from all appearance, is likely to equal in magnificence and grandeur, any of the noble residences in the north of England, That portion of the old castle, which was suffered to remain entire, has been fitted up ta alFord a present residence to the family. In this part, the apartments are of a very noble de- scription ; amongst them is the Barou's Hall, lighted dt the sides by stained glass windows, and at the west end by a richly painted window, in three beautiful compartments, representing three distinct views of tlie memorable battle of NeviU's Cross, fought between the English and Scotch, in 1S46. These windows were erected in 1821, by Mr. Collins, of .London. Considerable alterations have been made, and are likely to take place, in the disposition of the gardens, pleasure grounds, S:c. The park is well stocked with fine deer, and has been lately enlarged by the addition of upwards of 100 acres of land. At the south end of the village, near the castle, stands the church, built in the form of a cross, and beautifully decorated within. The chancel is in length fourteen paces, and in width seven paces, wainscoted and stalled with oak, in an excellent taste, highly finished with tabernacle- work; the roof is paneled "wiih oak, in diamonds, the joinings ornamented with cherub? crowned, supporiing shields, on which are SEATS AND VILLAGES. 127 scripture sentences, in raised letters, of fine carviug^. The space within the rails, the ascent to which is hy three steps, is four paces wide, and the altar is grace- fully covered with crimson velvet. The chancel is divided from the nave by a pointed arch, which is closed by gates and stalls canopied, and ornamented up to the roof, with elegant tabernacle work, in three spires. In the middle of the chancel is a tomb, with effigies cut in wood ; the figure of the man is in a coat of mail, the hands elevated with gauntlets, wearing his casque or helmet, which rests on a bull or buffalo's head, a collar round his neck, studded with gems, and on the breast a shield with the arms of Nevill; the female figure has a high crowned bonnet, and the mantle is drawn close over the feet, which rests on two dogs couch ant: The tomb is ornamented with small figures of ecclesiaj^tics at prayer, but without inscrip ion. Leland in his Itin. vol. 1. p. 80, says, "In the paroch chirch of Saint Brandon,* at Brans- peth, be dyvers tumbes of the Nevilles. In the quiro is a high tombe, of one of them porturid with his wife. This Neville lakkid heires male,, wherapon a great concertation rose betwixt the next heire male, and ono of the Gascoynes." This is the monument of Ralph, the first Earl of Westm.orland, and Margaret his first wife, daughter of Hugh Earl of Stafibrd : Sh© lies buried here, but he was buried at Staindrop^ * St. Brandon was Abbat of Clonfcrt, in Ireland. — Vidi Ware's Writers. 128 SEATS AND VILLAGES. where there is a fine tomb of him and his two wives. There is a large porch to the south of the chancel, opened by an arch, cased with wood, and ornamented with shields of arms : A table moimment below, with- out an inscription : The dexter arms of Nevills, the sinister, argent, three boars heads sable : Leland in the Itinerary, says — ** There lyith in that chapelle on the south side of the quier a Countes of Westmerland, sister to Boutli, archbishop of York." She was wife to Ralph, the third Earl of Westmorland. In the middle of the porch is a large table monument, with- out effigy, escutcheon, or inscription. Leland says> " There lyith in that chapelle also the Lord Neville^ father of the Erie that now is. This Lorde Neville died, his father the Erie yet lyving : wherapon the Erie tok much thought, and dyed at Horneby Castelle, in Richmondshir, and ther is buried in the paroche chirch. The Erie of Westmerland that is now, had an elder brother, and he lyith in a little tombe of marble, by the high alter, on the south side ; and at the feete of hym be buried 4 children of the Erles^ that now lyvith." The chancel is lighted to the east by a large window of five compartments, to the north three windows, and two to the south, under pointed arches, and ornamented with much tracery : There are two large windows in the porch to the south, and a smaller one to the east, of similar form. The nave is twenty paces in length, with side aisles, each formed by two octagonal pillars, long light shafts, supporting pointed arches ; the ceiling is wood, and one of the SEATS AND VILLAGES. 129 rafters on the north side is ornamented with a carved figure of a bull bearing a shield, with the arms of Nevill on the left shoulder. The stalls are of oak, regular, and ornamented with Jleurs de lis: It is lighted with two old flat arched windows to the north, and three modern windows to the soulk.;^ the upper windows are square and regular, four on each side. The cross is lighted at each end; the windows under pointed arches. At the north end of the cross, lies a colossian stone recumbent efTi^y, finely cut, in a coat of mail, and hood of cliainwork, the hands elevated, a shield on the left arm, the legs crossed, the right leg uppermost, and the feet resting upon a lion ; a muzzled bear lies by his left side, and the cushion which sup- ports his head is rested on a group or cluster of lions : The bearings of the shield are the arms of Nevill, with a file of five flambeaux. It is probable this is the monument of one of the Roberts de Nevill. There were two chantries in this church, one dedi- cated to St. John, of which no more is known, than that Browne Willis set forth the names of Henry Statchlock and M^illiam Cutor} , who had pensions of 30s. each in the vear 1553. Bishop Dudlej^ granted his licence, dated 20th September, 1433, to Ralph Lord Nevill, and Isabel his wife, to found a chantry for one chaplain at the altar of Jesus, in tlie south part of the church of St. Brandon; and to endow the same with ten pounds a year in lands. The font is a largQ bason of Stanhope marble. r 130 SEATS AND VILLAGES. The Parsouage-house, is a neat modern building, looking over an extensive meadow in front, around which there is a beautiful gravel walk, half a mile in extent, overhung with sycamores, &c. The Rev. Wm. Nesfield, is the present incumbent. WHITWORTH, &c. About one mile and a half to the south of Brance- peth Castle, across the Wear, is Whitworth, the elegant seat of Robert Eden Duncombe Shaflo, esq. A short distance from Whitworth, in the channel of the river Wear, are several large stones, which are never covered except when the river overflows : If water be poured over them, it will in a short time become brackish. And at Salt-water Hough, not far distant, there is a salt spring in the middle of the river, which is seen bubbling up when the water is low, and tinges all the stones near it with a red colour; it is as salt as any brine, and when boiled, produces a great quantity of bay salt. THE GROVE, AND CROOK HALL. At the southern extremity of South-street, Durham, in a beautiful situation, is the Grove, which was the seat of the late well-known comedian, Stephen George Kemble, esq.; it is now the residence of Wm. Cooke, esq. M. D. Near to Framwelgate, at the north end, stantls Crook Hall, the residence of Mrs. George, SEATS AND VILLAGES. 131 AYCLIFF HEADS. A mile north of the city of Durham, is Ay cliff Heads, the pleasant seat of Francis Johnson, esq. NEWTON HALL. Newton Hall, one of the seats of Wm. Russell, esq. M . P. (but now inhabited by the Rev. John Faw* cett) stands on a lofty site, about two miles north of Durham. The mansion is a modern edifice, sheltered by plantations, and commanding a fine prospect of the city and cathedral of Durham, and the surrounding country. COCKEN HALL. About four miles north from Durham, is Cocken Hall, the deserted mansion of Carr Ibbetson, esq. " which in 1804," says Surtees, *' became the resi- dence of a convent of Nuns of the order of St. Theresa, from Lier, in Flanders. On the late resto- ration of peace and social order on the Continent, they had planned a return to their convent ; but their buildings were destroyed, their revenues dissipated, their place knew them not, and they still continued to reside in the country which has afforded them shelter from the revolutionary storm, before which all the ancient establishments of the Continent bowed their heads." Cocken is celebrated for its picturesque scenery, 133 SEATS AND VILLAGES. being situated on an eminence^ bounded on the east hy tliickly wooded dells, and on the other three sides by the river Wear, which flows through a low rocky channel ; the cliffs in some places rising to the height of 100 feet, in others the ground sloping gently to the brink of the river; the ruins of Finchale Priory forming a grand and interesting view from the terrace* Its former beauties, however, are greatly diminished in consequence of the felling of the woods, and the neglected state in which the grounds are now kept. CH ESTER-LE-STREET* At the distance of about six miles north of Durham, is Chester-le-Street, a large and respectable village, pleasantly situated in a valley to the west of the river Wear, and on the Romah military way leading to Newcastle. It is supposed, by Camden, to be the Conderciim of the Romans; and that the first wing of the Astures lay here in garrison ; but, apparently, from insufficient evidence; no inscriptions, or other data, having been found to warrant the supposition; The Saxons called it Cimceastre, or Cvneugestcr, and under that name it became the episcopal See of Dur- ham; Eardulph, their bishop, having fled here about the year 883, from the cruelty of the Danes, who had pillaged Holy Island. After raising a church of wood for the reception of St. Cuthbert's body, the See was fixed here, which continued for 113 years, in a suc- cession of eight bishops, and from hence removed in SEATS AND VILLAGES. 1^^ the year 995, bj^ Aidhnnus, the last bishop, to Durham, Egelric, fourth ])ishop of Durham, dissatisfied with the humble church of wooden materials, which his prede- cessor had raised, erected a moi^ magnificient fabric X in digging the foundation of whidi, he found such a large sum of money, (buried as is supposed, by the Romans) that he resigned tlie bishopric, and returned to the monastery of Peterborough, where he had been abbot. After the See had been removed to Durham, this place, divested of its state and authority, became a mere parochial rectary, till bishop Beck made the church collegiate, and established a dean, with seveii prebendaries, five chaplains, three deacons, Avith other ministers. Thus it continued till the Dissolution, at which time it w as valued at £77. 12. 8. The present Church is a handsome stjjne edifice, with a nave, side aisles, and tower : The base of which is of a square form; but above the roof of the church, it assumes an octagonal shape, apparently more mo- dern; and is terminated by an elegant stone spire, sup* posed to be the handsombst in the North of England; the entire height being 156 feet. The interior is neat, and well preserved ; it contains a singular arrangement of monuments, with effigies of the deceased ancestry of the noble family of liumley, beginning at Liulph> the unhappy minister of bishop Walcher, (who was massacred at Gateshead, in the time of the Conqueror,) down to the reign of queen Elizabeth.* * For a particular description of these figures, viiie Hutch- inson's Durham, Vol. II. p. 392. N 134 SEATS AND VILLAGES. The village, which is 2GG miles from London consists of one street, about three quarters of a mil< in length, running nearly north and soulh, and con tains, according to the late returns, 202 houses, and 1819 inhabitants. LUMLEY CASTLE. One mile to the east of Chcster-le-Strect, on the opposite side of the Wear, and about five miles north of Durham, stands Lumley Castle, one of the seats of the family of that name, Eisrls of Scnrl>orough. It stands majestically on a fine elevated situation, hounded on the north by Lumley Beck, and rising gradually on the south and west from the river \Year : The east front h near the brow of a very deep, well- wooded valley, through which the beck winds towards the river. 'J'his stately mansion forms a quadrangle, with an area in the centre ; at each angle are projecting turrets, or observatories, of an octangular form, which overhang the face of each square of the base, and are machiolated, for the purpose of annoying assailants; they, however, give to the general building a singular appearance; The whole is composed of a yellow free-stone, which gives a bright and beautiful lint at a distance* The chief entrance to the castle is at the west front j by a noble double flight of steps, and a platform filling the whole space between the towers j the front to the south is modern, and brought almost parallel with the tower, licing sixty-five paces in length : SEATS AND VILLAGES. 135 The front to the north is obscured by offices; but towards the east, the castle retains its ancient form, and has a most august appearance; its projecting gateway, commanded by turrets, and machiolated gallery, are bold and stately : Above this gate are six shields, with armorial bearings, deeply carved in stane, with their several crests, contemporary with the build- ing; and which ascertain the date of its alteration by Sir Ralph Lumley, in the reign of Richard the II; when he obtained licence from bishop Skirlaw, dated 1389, to castellate his house of Lumley : It appears that the original fabric had been constructed by Sir Robert de Lumley, in the reign of Edward the I. and enlarged by his son. Sir Marmaduke. There are three stories of apartments in this front, having mullioned windows, guarded with iron : A narrow space, for a terrace, between the walls and the brink of the preci- pice, is guarded by a curtain wall. The uniformity of the east front, the arrangement of the arms, and the whole appearance of its masonry, testify this to be a part of the original structure, and a grand model of the taste of the age. A beautiful prospect is exhibited from the platform, at the entrance into the hall. At the bottom of the avenue which leads to the house, is a fine bason of water, |i salmon lock, and a fisherman's cottage ; and on the opposite elevated land, the view of Chester-le-Street, and the church, compose a pleas- ing distance: The more extended landscape com- prehends the house of Allan's Flatts, Pelton village, and the great Northern road ; whilst the back scene 136 SEATS AND VILLAGES. displays broken and irregular grounds, interspersed with cottages. To the left, cultivation brightens the prospect, and the winding stream of the Wear adds beauty to the picture, which, on one hand,, presents the view of the village of great Lumley, and, on die other, Walridge, with the Hermitage, and several hamlets in the vale. The distant landscape is termi-^ nated by Plawsworth, and the plantations above Newton HatL This noble mansion contains a great number of spacious apartments, some antique, and some modern;; these are adorned with valuable paintings, many of tliem representing the ancestors* of tiie family, for * The following anecdote of this family is lelated by George Allan, esq. in Nichol's Literary Anecdotes of the Eighteenth. Century, vol. 8, p. 722. " Soon after the accession of king James to the crown of England, in one of the tours he made- round his kingdom, he was entertained by Lord Lumley at this castle. The bishop of Durham (William James,) a relation ot" his Lordship, who was there on a visit at the same time, thinking to possess his majesty with a grand idea of the importance of tlie Lumley family,t began to acquaint the king with a genealo- gical detail of liis Lordship's i)rogcnitors, and attempted to deduce their origin from a period so remote, that it exceeded every degree of credibility. The king, whose patience waa quite exhausted, stopped short the reverend genealogist, by saying, — O mon, gang no farther; let me digest this knawledge I ha gained ; for, by my saul, / did na ken that Admns name was LiUmleij*' t This family might indeed boast of a long and illustrious race of ancestors, as it possesses in a very eminent degree the most incontrovertible evidences of the remotest antiquity. According to Caiudeu and Sii- Wna, Dngdale, it is descended SEATS AND VILLAGES. 137 some centuries past, in the habit of the times in which they Hved. The family of the Earl of Scarborough has not resided here for many years, yet the castle is kept in good repair by Mr. Stobart, the agent, who lives near to it; and servants occupy the house, who, for a trifling gratuity, will shew it to any respectable from Liulph, a nobleman of high rank in the time of Edward the Confessor, who married Algitha, daughter to Aldred, Earl of Northumberland, by whom he had issue, Uchtred, Osbert, Adam, and Odo. From Uchtred was descended Ralph de Lumley, of Lnmley Castle, who was governor of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and was summoned to Parliament, as a Baron, by Richard II. One of his descendants, George, Lord Lumley, was beheaded for high treason, but his son John, was restored in blood as a Baron, and made some figure in the reign of Elizabeth. At his decease, in consequence of the failure of male-issue, the ancient barony of Lumley became extinct ; it was, however, again revived in the person of Richard, a collateral descendant, who came into possession of the estate, and was created Viscount Lumley, of Waterford, in Ireland, 1628. Richard, his grandson, w as created an English peer by the title of Baron Lnmley, in 1681 ; in 1690, he was advanced to the Earl- dom of Scarborough, Richard Lumlej', sixth, and present earl, succeeded his brother, September 5, 1807. The arms borne by the Earl of Scarborough are, argent, a fess gules, between three parrots proper, collar d of the second; being the arms of the ancient Barons Thwenge, from one of the heirs whereof his present lordship is lineally descended. (But the ancient arms of Lumley are, gules, six martlets, argent, 3. 2. 1.) Crest: On a wreath, a pelicon in her piety. Supporters : Two parrots, with wings expanded, proper (i. e. vert) beaked and member'd, gides. Motto : Mums ctneus conscientia sana : (A good conscience is a icall of brass.) N d 138 SEATS AND VILLACi^ES, LAMBTON HALL. About two miles north east from Lumlcy Castle, on au elevated situatiou on tlic north banks of the Wear, stands Lambton Hall, formerley called Harraton Hall, the seat of John George Lambton,. esq. M. P. This estate was anciently tlie seat of the D'Arcys, who conveyed it to the Hedicorths, the last male line of which family died in the year 1688, leaving two daughters co-heiresses ; one of whom manied llalph Lambton, esq., a younger branch of the Lambtons, of Lambton Hall,* on the opposite side of the Wear : The other married Sir William Williamson, hart, of Monkwearmouth : But her moity was purchased by William Laiabton, esq. in 1714;. and the whole estate has from that period remained in the family. The Hall is a modern building, erected by the elder Bo- nomiy and contains a few family paintings; amongst * The Lambtons were seated at Lambton as early as the twelfth century, as appears from John de Lamtun being witness- to the charter of Uchtred de Wodeshend, between 1180 and 1200 ; also, witness to the charter of Robert fil. Thome, of lands in Morton, circ. 1200—1214 ; and to the charter of John de Thorp, of Finchale Priory, temp. Bertram prioris, 1189 — 1209. From which remote period, IMr, Surtees has, with his usual accuracy and ability^very satisfactorily deduced their genealogy tfr tl»e present time. The arms borne by this family are, sab/Cf. a fcss bettceen three lambs passant y argent. Crest: On a wreath, a ram's head caboshed argent j attired sable. Motto : La jour viendra: ( The day will come. J SEATS AND VILLAGES. 139 wliich, is a fine full-length portrait of the late General John Lambton, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. The grounds are pleasant; and the ride through a hanging wood on the southern bank of the Wear, is extremely beautiful. Some very considerable improvements are making, both in the mansion and park, by the present propri- etor. There is a tradition here, that a serpent or immense uarm^ 40 feet in length, which infested the river near this place, was killed by one of the Lambtons. S^rtees, in the second vol. of his History of Durham,, gives the following humorous account of this monster : " The heir of Lambton, fishing, as was his profane custom, m the Wear, on a Sunday, hooked a small worm or eft, which he carelessly threw intaa well, and thought no more of the adventure. The worm (-at first neglected) grew till it was toa large for its first habitation, and issuing forth from the Worm Well, betook itself to the river, where it usually lay a part of the day coiled round a crag in the middle of the water; it also fre- quented a green mound near the well, (the Wornh Hill,) where it lapped itself nine times round, leaving vermicular traces, of which, grave living witnesses deposo that they have seen the vestiges. It now became the terror of the country, and, amongst other enormities, levied a daily contribution of nine cows' milk, whieh was always placed for it at the Green Hill, and in default of which, it devoured man. and beast,. Young Lambton had, it seems, meanwhile, totally repented him of his former life and conversation, had bathed himself in a buth of holy water, taken theJ 140 SEATS AND VILLAGES. sign of the cross, and joined the Crusaders. On Lis return home, he was extremely shocked at witnessing the effects of his youthful iniprudencies, and immedi- ately undertook the adventure. After several fierce combats, in which the Crusader was foiled by his enemy's power of self -union, he found it expedient to add policy to courage, and not possessing much of the former qualit}', he went to consult a witch, or wise woman. By her judicious advice, he armed himself in a coat of mail, studded with razor blades, and thus prepared, placed himself on the crag in tlie river, and w aited the monster's arrival. At the usual time the worm came to the rock, and wound himself with great fury round the armed knight, who had the satisfaction to see his enemy cut in pieces by his own efforts, whilst the stream washing away the severed parts, prevented the possibility of a re-union. There is still a sequel to the story : The witch had promised Lambton success only on one condition, that he should slay the first living thing that met his sight after the victory. To avoid the possibility of human slaughter, Lambton had directed his father, that as soon as he had heard him sound three blasts on his bugle, in token of achievement performed, he should release his favourite greyhound, which would immediately fly to the sound of the horn, and was destined to be the sacrifice. On hearing his son's bugle,, however, the old chief was so overjoyed, that he forgot the injunctions, and ran himself with open arms to meet his son. Instead of committing a parricide, the conqueror again repaired to his advLeer, SEATS AND VILLAGES. 141 wlio pronounced, as the alternative of disobeying the original instructions, that no chief of the Lambtons should die in his bed for seven, (or as some accounts say) for nine generations — a commutation which, to a martial spirit, had nothing probably very terrible, and which was willingly complied with." In the extensive Park, opposite to Lambton Hall, there are excellent races every year, in October. They were commenced in 1821, by Mr. Lambton, for the amusement of a few friends, who were visiting at Lambton Hall, and only intended for one day; but the interest which appeared to be taken in them induced Mr. Lambton to allow horses belonging to any of the neighbouring sporting gentlemen to enter for the stakes, &c., which were only intended for his own horses, or those of his more particular friends.. The entry was so large, that fresh prizes were given, and since that period the races have continued four days. END OF DURHAM,^ ETC. THE LEGEND OF Saint erutftfievt. THE IttgenU of Saint &\itf)itxt ; OR, THE Histories of his Churches at LINDISFARNE, CUNECASCESTRE, AND DUNHOLM. BY ROBERT HEGG. 1626. Liiidisfaiiie. FROM THE PRIVATE EDITION OF THE LATE GEORGE ALLAN, ESQ. F. S. A. DURHAM: RE-PRINTED BY T. HOGGETT, MARKET PLACE. 1824. THE EDITOR'S PREFACE. In consequence of the Legend of St. Cuthbert having become extremely scarce, the Editor presumes that a new edition may not prove unacceptable to the public; especially, as he is induced to believe they will concur with him in thinkings that the Work is not altogether devoid of interest, but is equally calculated for affording instruction, as well as amusement, — from the circumstance of its containing much local and historical infoi^mation; ftirnishing a sufficiently satisfactory, though succinct account, rela- tive to the primary and principal incidents which led to the foundation of the See of Durham, and its subsequent Episcopal grandeur; and tending in no small degree, to portray the superstitious manners of those remote ages, when literature had not yet shed its enlightening rays, but when its first dawn was almost entirely confined to a crafty and illusive Priest- hood ; and when, independently of some solitary in- stances, tlie rest of mankind were involved in darkness and the profovindest ignorance, o 14B editor's preface. 'The Editor has availed himself of the opportunity \vhich is now afforded, in presenting to the Reader, the following hrief Biographical Account of the Au- thor of the Legend of St. Cuthbert, which is extracted from Wood's Athenas Oxonienses : — ' ' Ro e ert Heg g , a Prodigy of his time for forward and good natural parts, was born within tl;e City of Durham, anno 1599; admitted scholar of Corpus Christi College, 7th Nov. 1614 ; Probationer Fellow thereof, 27th Dec. 1624, being then Master of Arts, and accounted (considering his age) the best in the University for the Mathematical Faculty, History, and Antiquities, and therefore much beloved by Thomas Allen, of Gloucester Hall, as afterwards he was for his excel- lent knowledge in the Sacred Scripture, as may be seen in certain Books he wrote; amongst which, is the Legend of St. Cuthbert, with the Antiquities of the Church of Durham, written in 1626, and left in Manuscript behind him at his death, so exactly and neatly written, that many have taken it to be printed. Afterv/ards, a Copy of it, under the Author's hand, coming into the possession of Thomas Lord Fairfax, was by him reposed as a precious monument in his Library of Manuscripts. At length, one who writes editor's preface. 149 himself R, B. Esqr.^ (sometime of the Retinue of the said Lord, as I hare been informed) published it at London, 1663, in octavo, in a very bad Letter, and worse Paper, not without some derogation to the me- mory of the Author, by concealing his name, and putting the two first Letters of his own, with the writing a Prologue to it. The truest Copy under the Author's hand, is now in the possession of Dr, Edward Pocock, Canon of Christ Church, and the King's Hebrew Professor of this University, having an Epistle to the Reader before it, under the Author's own hand, dated 1st July, 1626, which the printed hath not. Betwixt this Manuscript, and the printed Copy, I find much difference, there being in the latter many omissions, some additions, besides literal mis- takes (especially in the names of Men and Places) and several Passages transpos'd. Our Author died suddenly of an Apoplexy ; to the great reluctancy of those who were acquainted with his admirable parts, on the eleventh of June, 1629, (having scarce attained to the 30th year of his age) and was buried in the Chapel of the said College." * Richard Baddeley, Esq. When we consider the gentle- man's cognomen, we must not feel surprised that the Work should have been badhj edited. 150 editor's preface. Three editions of the Legend have appeared at different times : — The first was published in 1663, in 8vo.; and is the one to which Wood alludes. In 1777, a very correct edition was printed at the private press of the late learned Antiquary, George Allan, Esq. F. S. A. of the Grange, near Darlington ; hut in con- sequence of the small number of copies which he caused to be printed, and these too being confined to private circulation, a copy is now very rarely to be met with. It was taken from the original MS. deposited in the Library of Corpus Christi College, Oxford. The last was published at Bishopwearmouth, in 1816, in 4to. and edited by John Brough Taylor, Esq, F. S. A, This edition was copied from a MS. dated 1665, now in the possession of Mr. Taylor, and which formerly belonged to Freville Lambton, esq. of Hardwick. The present Re-print has been very carefully colla- ted with Mr. Allan's edition, and not a word of the text has been omitted. The Editor has, however, taken the liberty of subjoining some notes, in order to exemplify a few historical facts, and to illustrate those parts of the work that seemed to require some elucidation. Durham, April 1st, 1824. THE AUTHOR TO THE READER. Things once done and past, are not left for In- vention, but the Judgement of after Ages, and Theft (without a Paradox) in Writers of Histories is plain dealing, and an Argument of Trueth : Only it is Inge- nuity in the Historian, and satisfaction to the Reader, to confesse from whom he tooke his Storie upon trust. In my Journey therefore through this Historic, I first light into Companie of St. Beda, who told me he was an eleaven yeares old at St. Cuthbert's death, and upon good information had writ his Life. A little further I met with Turgotus Prior of Durham, one that was an eye-witnesse of St. Cuthbert's Incorruption, and had made diligent searches into the Antiquities of LiNDiSFARNE and Chester, who brought me for- ward a great part of my way, 'till I overtooke one Laurentius a Monke of Durham, who continued to me the discourse of St. Cuthbert, where Turgotus o .3 152 THE AUTHOR TO THE READER. had left off. And travailing on, I fortuned to liappe upon my Country-man Simeon of Durham, but Roger Hoveden told mee the same taile. Afterwai'ds I had the company of Malmesburiensis, Neubrigensis, Pa- risiensis, Westmonasteriensis and Hygden, who all travailed the way I was to goe, and could tell me Stories of St. Cutlibert; but Capgrave a Monke of Bury passed all for telling Wonders, and one Ni- cholas of Finchale cosen'd some few myles with a relation of Saint Godrick : Harpsfeild alsoe stood mee in stead by his direction, when I had almost lost my way, with many others I mett besides, of whom I asked the way to my Journey's end, where I rest. ROBERT HEGG DUNELM. 1st July, 1626. THE m^tovn SAINT CUTHBERT, BISHOP OF LINDISFARNE. History and prophecy (set back to back) make up tbe true Image of Janns, wbosc two faces, tyme past and future, honour as their Overseers. In History, Tyme lives after shee is dead, and in Prophesy, before shee is borne. In the one shee beholds what shee was, in the other w^hat shee shall be. But sith the Theory of Tyme to come is the Prerogative of a Deity, Man must bee modestly content m itli this blessing bestowed by History upon Mortality, to see through our Grandfather's eyes what hath beene : This is all our sublunary Eternity, if at the Fimerall of things, Historic become the Epitaph, and rescue their Memories from the Grave that entombs their Ashes ; and this duty I owe to that Countrey, whefe I had my Cradle, to renew the decayed Epitaphs upon the Tombstone of her Antiquities. 154 THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBERT, Geographers deale with Countries, as Astronomers with their Asterismes, and fancy them into shapes, as Italy into a Man's Legge, Spayne into an Oxehyde, and the forme of this Bishoprick into a A, or an equi- lateral! Triangle. It lyelh in the bosome of the Ger- maine Neptune, and embraced betweene the Armes of the two Christall Rivers Teese and Derioent, which lengthens his reach by falling into the Tyne, ajid by the losse of his name, comes unknowne unto the Ocean, etfama majoris in amnem lapms ad cequorias nomen non perUdit undas. The ancient Inhabitants which the Romanes found here, were the Brigantes; which in the tyme of the Saxons became Deiri ; the Children of which Countrey in the Raigne of K, Ella being to bee sold at Rome, gave occasion of replanting Christianite here by Avgus- tine the English Apostle, sent by Pope Benedict, at the entreaty of Gregory then Archdeacon of Rome, who facetely alluding to the names of their Nation, Province, and King, concluded, ut Angli Aiigelis similes, de ira Dei eruerentur, et Allelujah cantare docerentur. After which, one of the first of the Saxon Kings (who had made a Conquest as well of Religion as Men) that in this Province was dipt in the sacred Laver of Baptisme, was that renowned Prince K. Oswold, Qui Genti suce primitias sanctitatis dederit, and was the first of the English Race, that was illustrious by My- racles, who erecting the first Crosse wee reade of in. BISHOP OF LINDISFARNE. 155 England at Denishutne as his Standart, obtained as he thought, by the virtue thereof a famous Victory over Cedwallaf after which, that he might conquer likewise his People to Christianite, he sent for a learned Monke out of Scotland, for whom he erected the Episcopall Chaire in the Holy Island called Lindisfarne Amio Dora. 635, where whiles the Bishop taught the People in the Scotish Tongue, the King understanding both Languages, stood and interpreted his Sermons in English.* * In this place (Lindisfavne) the opulence and honours of the See of Durham had their origin. As the early history of this Bishopric is highly curious and interesting, it must be perused With pleasure by every inquisitive reader, particularly as it elucidates the manners, opinions, and religious practices of ouv progenitors. The conversion of the kingdom of Northumberland had been partly effected Mhen Edwin fell before the ferocious Penda, king of Mercia. During the miseries that followed, the converts vere deprived of instruction, and easily relapsed into their former idolatry. But at length the intrepid and pious Oswald appeared at the head of the distracted Northumbrians, and avenged the calamities of his family and country, at Hea- venfield, near Hexham. As this prince piously attributed his success to the favour of heaven, he immediately bent his attention to the concerns of religion, and solicited asupply of missionaries from his former instructors, the Scotch. Corman was sent, a monk of a severe and unpliant disposition, wiio, disgusted with the ignorance and barbarism of the Saxons, speedily returned in despair to his monastery. Aidan, a monk of tiie house of lona, was next selected to be the apostle of the Northumbrians, and the issue of his labours justified the wisdom of the choice. This indefatigable missionary was assisted and encouraged by the exertions and example of Oswald ; and such were the effects of 166 THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBERT, This great jyTonarch the pious Founder of that Church (to whose Womb all the Churches of the their united labours, that in the space of seven days 15,000 persons were baptized. Many of Aidan's brethren left Scotland to assist in the holy work, and the Episcopal See was fixed at Lindisfarne about the year 634. This place was probably chosen by Aidan as a secure retreat from the ferocious and unconverted states, which were perpe- tually stirring up feuds against the Christians: And as Bib- banburgh was the place of royal residence, and chief fortress of the Northumbrian kingdom, he could not have selected a more eligible situation. It was also rendered solemn by the awful prospect of the ocean, and was eminently calculated for meditation and retirement, being periodically shut out from the continental inhabitants. The architecture of the Saxons at this period was rude and barbarous, and the church of Lindisfarne was built of spUt oak, covered with reeds. Many other places of shelter for reUgious worship were erected in different parts, and the audiences became numerous. Aidan's fellow-labourers formed themselves into a religious society, and adopted the monastic rules of their great master, St. Columba. Bede bears honourable testimony to their virtue. With a glowing pencil he displays their patience, their chastity, their frequent meditation on the Sacied ^^ritings, and their indefatigable efforts to attain the summits of Christian perfection. They chose for their habi- tation the most dreary situations ; no motives but those of charity could draw them from their cells; and, if they appeared in public, their object Mas to reconcile enemies, to instruct the ignorant, to discourage vice, and to plead the cause of the un- fortunate. The little property which they enjoyed was common to all ; poverty they esteemed as the surest guardian of virtue ; and the benefactions of the opulent they respectfully declined, or instantly employed in relieving the necessities of the indigent. Aidan having held the bishopric of lindisfarne. seventeen years, died, it is said, through grief for the loss of his royal patron, Oswald, whom Penda had slain. (Ut sup-a.J — View of North' umberland. BISHOP OF LINDISFARNE. 157 North owe tlieir JMHh) in a Battel with a Pagan Priiice* lost his life and the day ; but with this ad- vantage, that whiles Ki?ig Peiida left him not a head to weare a Diademe, he received a more glorious Crowne of Martyrdome; and as Fury prosecuting Revenge after death tore his body in peices, so the Devotion of those tymes dispersed his Reliques to severall places, nempejacere Uno non potnit tanta ruina locOj for whose Sepulchre there was as great a Contention among the English Churches, as in old tyme for the Cradle and Birth of Homer : Part of his Corps were entombed in Bradny, afterwards translated to the Ca- tliedrall Church at Gloucester, where I beheld not with- out some devotion to Antiquity, his Shrine betweene two Pillars at the upper end, and north side of the Chancell ; his Head was translated to Liadisfarney and afterv/ards found in >S^^ Cuthberfs Coffin in Durham; * The fate of Cedwell was no example to Penda, the Mercian king, whose envy against Oswald, urged him to rise in arms against him. He levied an army and marched against Northumberland. Oswald arrayed his troops and met him at Maserfield, in Shropshire, on the 5th day of August, 6-12, where, after a long and bloody conflict^ victory declared for the Mer- cians, and Oswald was slain. The inhuman victor caused the royal remains, after being horribly mangled, to be suspended on a pole, like those of an infamous malefactor, which occasioned the name of Maserfield to be changed to that of Oswald's Tree^ now Oswestry. — IliUchmson's Durham. 158 THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBERT, lastly, his Arme was kept in a Silver Case at Behirga or Bamhrovgh, not farre seated from the Holy Island, and at that t^'me the Metropolis of tliose parts. This sacred Relique retaj'n'd tlie blessing of AidanuSf and was a Monument of Incorruption in an History recorded by Beda^ who relates ; that upon an Easter* day while the King sate at Dinner, his Servants told him of some poore People that expected Almes at his gate ; who forthwith bid them carry bothe tlie Meate, and the Platter (which was of Silver) and breake it among them; with which fact of Charity, Aidan the Bishop that sate by him, much affected, tooke him by the hand, with this hearty Wish, never lett this Arme 'perish! This Martyr's death was the end of Aidawus his life,* and the Pagans at one blowe kill'd a Prince with the Sword, and a Bishop with Sorrowe, who thought it a sinne to live after so good a King was dead : At which tyme I finde, that St, Cuthbert was a Shepheard,t and that in the dead of the night, he saw the Soule of the said Bishop carryed up with great * Aidaniis peregit in Episcop. annos 17. Obiit in villa regia non longe aBeborbia anno d, 651. Corpus Aidani primo sepul- tum in cscmiterio Lindisfarne, postea in novam Ecclesiam Petri ibidem constructam translata sunt ossa Aidani, atque ad dex- teram altaris sita. Quorum partem Colmannus in Scotiamrediens secum tulit. Lei. Col. v. i. p. 367. t The early part of St. Cuthbert's life is involved in much mystery, and the accounts given by Historians relative to his origin, are also extremely contradictory ; some asserting that he Avas of regal extraction, and others contending that he was of plebeian race. The latter opinion is, however, the most probable* 131SH01P OF UNDlSlPARi^E. 1519 Melody by a Quire of Angells into Heaven; which beavenly Vision soe seaz'd upon his affection, that resolving upon an holyer course of life, he thought he could betake himself to noe better jilace then to the Abby of Mailrose^ built by Aidanus upon the banks of Tweed; but the Devill to crosse his good intent, meetes him in his Journey, and after a good cudgeling* was glad to leave him ; for proof whereof, in the same place to this day (if you will borr6\^ne an Optick-glass from Superstition) you may see the printe of his Cloven foote : Neither did his Valour, but also his Humilitie apeare, when overtaken by Night and Hun* ger ; he Was forcM to succour liimselfe under an old Cottage, where he found noe other Guest for enter* tainment, then an Horse, which turning up the Hay, discovered a Loafe of Bread, at which the Saint right glad, said Grace, and giving the Horse one halfe, satisfied liimselfe with the other, and the nest day came to Mailrose, where he had noe sooner entred, but Boysilus Prior of the Abby, by a Propheticall Phisiognomy , as if he had read in his face his Sanctite, solemnely receives him in his Armcs, and presents him to Eata the Abbat, who committed him to Boy- silus for his Tutor, who taught him St. JohrCs Gospell> in that Booke, which in honour of the SchoUer, was kept in the Abby at Durham in Prior Tiwgofs tyme, on which, after soe many Centuries of yeares, noe Moth> durst ever presume to feede. In this Abby, after he had spent in the perfection of a Monasticall life 15 yeares, he was prefer'd by Eata p 160 THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBER-f, the Bishop, to the Priorie of Lindisfanie, In this Hntf Island (so christned in after Ages for >S^^ Cuthberfs Sanctitie) stood that renouned Monastery founded by K. Osualdy and was the Mother Churcli and Nurcery of Rehgion among the Bernieians under Aidaims, from whom the Episcopall Race of the Prelates of the Church of Durham reckon their Succession. This ish^nd* in a Monke of Durham's Topography^ * This Island was by the Britons called, Inis Medicante, also Lindisfarne, from the small rivniet of Limli, which here runs into the sea, and the Celtic word Fuhven, a recess ; also, on accoxnit of its being the habitation of some of the first monks in this country, it afterwards obtained its name o-f Holy Island. — IJede calls Lindisfarne a semi-island, being, as he justly observes^ twice an island, and twice a continent in one day ; for, at the flowing of the tide, it is encompassed by water ; and, at the ebb, there is an almost dry passage, both for horses and cariiages, to and from the main land ; from which, if measured in a straight line, it is distant about two miles eastward ; but on account of some quicksands, passengers are obliged to make so many de- tours, that the length of the way is nearly doubled. The water over these flats, at spring tides, is only seven feet. The Island measures from east to west about two miles and a quarter ; and its breadth, from north to south, is scarcely a mile and a half. At the north west part there runs Out a spit of land, of about a mile in length. This Isle contains about 1,000 acres, the half of which, situated to the north, is deemed incapable of improve- ment, being sand hills, affording little vegetation but bent : Such parts as are exposed to the violence of the tempests from the north east, are subject to be covered with floods of sand, which is frequently Swept by the winds to a considerable distance from the shore. The land chiefly consists of one continued plain, inclining to the south west, which was occupied as a stinted common; but by an inclosure, effected in 1792, the value is prodigiously increaFed. There is a lake of about seven acr«^» BISHOP OF LINDISFARNE. 161 was ill circuit 8 Myles, and an Island but twice a day, embraced by Neptune onely at the full Tydes, and extent upon this interesting Isle, The ground on which the village stands rises swiftly from the shore : At the southern point is a rock of a conical figure, and almost perpendicular; in height, near 60 feet, having on its lofty crown a small fortress or castle, which makes at once a grotesque and formidable appear- ance. There are four caves, or coves, as they are called, which lie north east from the village. The largest is upwards of 50 feet long. The entrance is just large enough to admit a man. The rock, above this, rises to the height of 40 feet. — The island contains 100 houses ; and there are seven inns or public houses in the village, some of them very convenient and respectable. Most of the inhabitants are fishermen. The shore is, in many parts, excellent for bathing, and the situation is at once healthy and romantic : It has, therefore, of late years, become a place of great resort, and is much praised for the beauties that grace its solemn walks. The new houses, which have been recently erected, give to the whole place a neat and comfortable appear- ance. The north and east coasts of the Island are formed of perpendicular rocks ; the other sides sink by gradual declinations towards the sands. The fishermen, in the winter season, are employed in catching lobsters, which are sent to the London market. Great quantities of cod, ling, and haddocks are also taken, with which the coast abounds. On the north part of the Island, there is abundance of limestone ; and a small seam of coal, never much worked on account of the water and other difficulties. There is plenty of iron ore in a bed of black shiver or slate, amongst which are the Entrochi, or St. Cuthbert's beads, as the superstitious have called them. — It seems that the Saint still retains an affection for his old residence at Lindisfarne, as, according to the vulgar belief, he often comes thither in the night, and sitting on a certain rock, uses another as his anvil, on which he forges his beads. This tradition is interwoven by Sir Walter Scott w ith the fable of his Marmion : " But fain St. Hilda's nuns would learn, Jf, on a rock, by Lindisfarne, 162 THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBERT, twice a day sh^ked hands with Great Brittayne. Here also Finanus, St. Aidan's Successour, built after the ancient Poverty a Cathedrall Church of Wood, thatch'd w^ithWeedes; a work of more Devotion then Cost, and like as in those dayes of Simplicitie, when Jove eould scarce stand upright in his Temple, and had not roome enough to threaten liis Thunderbolt, Jupiter angusta vix totus stabat in Mde, Inque Jovis dextrajictUe fulmen erat. But it was not long till Eadhertusy St, Cuthheifs Suc- cessour, instead of this consecrated Thatch, appareird and covered the whole Church with a Robe of Lead." St. Cutlibert sits, and toils to frame The sea-born beads that bear his name : Such tales had Whitby's fishers told, And said they ^ight his shape behold And hear his anvil sound ; A deaden'd clang — a huge dim form Seen but, and heard, when gatliering storm And night were closing round. But this, as tale of idle fame The nuns of Lindisfarne disclaim." Canto II. Stanza 16. * Great remains of the aid Abbey are standing ; nothing but confused ruins shew where the monastic buildings stood, the walls having been robbed for building parts of the village, and for the erection of the present parochial church. Some Authors have alleged, that the monastery was built by St. Cuthbert, of a. humble model, without ornament, and inclosed with a high wall, in order th?it outward objects might not draw the attention of the recluse from divine contemplations. T4ie ancient church vas ii;i the form of a cross^ the body and (?hancel of which are « BISHOP OF LINDISFARNE. 1()3 111 this Island /oMr/eew Bishops successively ascended the Episcopall Seate ; among whom, as a glorious Starre yet standing, the other i)arts greatly ruined, and in sonie places level with the ground ; the order of building in this structure is rude and heavy, and most of it in the worst mode of the early Saxon architecture. Mr. Grose says, it probably was the work of different periods : Great pait of it seems very ancient, tl>e arches being circular, and the columns very massy, and much like those of Durham, but richer. On the north and south walls there are pointed arches, which prove that that part of it, at least, was built since the reign of Henry II. It is evident that the square tower, or steeple, has been erected long after the first building of the church, as Avell as several other parts. The pillars, on which the arches rise in the centre of the cross, are clustered and plain capitalled, each forming a corner of the great tower ; those arches are of few members. There are side aisles, the columns of which are heavy, and the arches semicir- cular. Where the arches are pointed, the stones are little injured by tmie ; where the arches are semicircular, the stones are much decayed. The windows are narrow,, and ornamented with a corner pilaster, and a moulding of few members : The walls are very thick, and every part displays^ a gloo ry and sombre appearance. The south wall af the middle tower is standing, and is about 50 feet in height ; and one corner tower at the west end of the church remains perfect. By whom this edifice was built does not appear. Various fragments of the offices of the monastery, constructed with reddish stone, are still standing, and foundations of buildings are scattered over a close of near four acres : But its chief remains are the church, the main walls of which, on the north and south sides, are standing, though much out of the perpendicular. Indeed, they incline outwards so considerably, as to make the horizontal distance between them at the top exceed, by near two feet, that at the bottom. The west end is likewise pretty entire ; but the east is almost levelled with the ground. This building consists of a body and two side aisles, into which it is divided by a double kow of very solid columns, whose shafts are richly oruameuted :: P 3 164 THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBERT, of the first magnitude, St. Ciithbert sliyned in the Firmament of this Church j where after twelve yeares he had borne the dignity of the Priorship, he became a Votary to an Anchoreticall life, and choosed the Island Fame* seated in the maine Ocean for the place Each row has five cohimns, of four different constructions, and two pilasters in the walls at the east and west ends. The shaft* of these columns are about twelve feet high ; th€ir diameters about five ; their pedestals and capitals are plain ; they support circular arches, having over each arch two ranges of windows ; the lowest, large and in pairs, separated only by a column ; the upper, small and single. In the north and south walls there are some pointed arches. The length of the building is about 138 feet, the breadth of the body eighteen feet, and that of the two- side aisles about nine feet each. It seems doubtful whether there ever was a transept. The tower of the church stands in the centre, and was supported by two large arches standing diagonally : One of them is now remaining. This arch is ornamented in the Saxon style, somewhat similar to that of the stranger's hall at Canterbury. — View of Northumberland. * The last Isle I visited, was the House Island, the seques- tered spot where St. Cuthbert passed the two last years of his life. Here was afterwards established a priory of Benedictine* for six or eight monks, subordinate to Durham. A square tower,, the remains of a church, and some other buildings, are to be seen there still ; and a stone coffin, which, it is apprehended, was that of St. Cuthbert. At the north end of this Isle js a deep chasm, from the top to the bottom of the rock, communicating to the sea, through which^ in tempestuous weather, the water is forced with vast violence and noise, and forms a fine jet d'eau of sixty feet high : It is called by the inhabitants of the opposite coast,, the Churn. — Pennant's Tour in Scotland, vol. II. p. 38. Bede's description of this Island is as follows : — Fame insula medio in mari posita, aliquot millibus passuum ab hac semi-insula (Lindisf. ) ad Eurum secreta, et hinc altissimo et iude infiiiito. BISHOP OF LTNDISFARNE, l(>i> of his Hermytage. This Island as voyd of Trees, Water, and Graine, as full of Devills, became the Stage whereon St. Cidhbert acted all his Miracles ; for at his arrival, the Spirits that frequented this Isle, were putt to flight, the Rocks powred out their Water, and as if there had beene a return of the golden Age, the Earth brought forth Corne without Tillage, with many more Wonders, if they might bee reported upon the creditt of a Legend : But these are enough to shewe what advantage the Menkes took of the blind Devotion of that Age, whose study and whole practise was to devise and relate Miracles of their Saints, which (as Su- pei*stition is alwaies credulous) were as easily beleeved i. Thus to gaine from the Pagans a reverend opinion of Christianity, they thought it but a pious fraud to cosen clauditur oceano. Nullus hanc facile, ante famulum Domini Cudbertum solus valebat habitave colonus, propter videlicet demorantiuni ibi phantasias daMnonum." — The habitation of St. Cr.thbert erected here, is thus described by the same writer : *' Est autem aedificium situ pene rotiindum, et a muro usque ad murum, mensurai quatuor ferme sive quinque perticarum^ disten- tum, murus ipse deforis altior longitudine stantis hominis ; nam intrinsecus vivara caedendo rupem multo ilium fecit altiorem, quatenus ad cohibendam occulorum simul et cogitatuum lasciviam, ad erlgendam in superna desideria totam mentis intentionem, pins incola nil de sua mansione pra;ter ccclum possit intueri. Murum non de secto lapide vel latere et coemento, sed impolitis priorsus lapidibus et cespite composuit, culmina de lignis informi- bus et foeno superposuit. Duas in mansione habnit domos : ora- torium scilicet et aliad ad communes usus aptum habitaculum. Ad portum insulae major crat domus in qua visitantcs eum fratres, suscipl et quiescere possint." — Bedc Vit,Cufh, c^l8» 166 THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBERT, the People with Volumes of Wonders, who whiles they defended trtieth by forgeries, their Impostures discover'd to wiser Ages, have rather made Religion suspected, then any way advanced it : But if I should proceed in this Discourse, I should leave St. Cuthbert too solitarie in his Cell at Fame, where for want of other Auditors, I find him in the History preaching to Birds that eate his Corne, who soe confuted them out of the Text, with alicna nan eoncupisces, that they never after touched his Harvest. In like manner he reclaymed two Crowes from their wonted stealing and rapine, that pull'd Thatch off his Anchorage for to build their Nests, and made them so penitent, that they laye prostrate at his feete for Absolution. In this Isle he voluntarilye suffer'd nine yeares Imprisonment from the society of Men, soe wholly devoted to Heaven, that he remembred not he was upon Earth, and for a Avhole yeare forgott to putt off his Shoes : But he could not live soe obscurely la his Cell, as his fame was resplendent abroad ; and in a Synod at Abie upon Tivyford he was in his absence chosen Bishop* : This Dignity was prophesied to him long before whiles he was a Child, by an Infant of three yeares old, who gravely reproved him, Fye Saint * His first nomination was to the See of Hexham ; but re- taining a predilection for his former residence, he exchanged with Eata, and was consecrated at York on the 7th day of April,, being Easter-day, in the year C85, and in the eleventh of the reign of king .Egfrid, who was present at the consecration. BISHOP OF LINDISFARNE. 1G7 Ciithhert ! what a Presbyter and a Bishop y and playing among Boyes? as if at that tj/me he had scene him in his Myter and his Crosier Staffe; but St, Cuthbert liad so wedded his affection to a solitary life, that neither Letters nor Embassadors from the Synod could perswade or command him to take upon him the Government of the Church, till King Egfrid him- selfe, attended both with the Lords Temporall and Spirituall, sayled to his Hermytage, and with the same Company might have besieged and taken a City whiles they were conquering his Resolution. The King to enlarge his Diocesse gave him a great part of the City of Yorke, and the Village of Creca with three Miles compasse about it, as also the Cittie of Carliel with the circuit of fifteen Miles about it : But for all this, St. Cuthberfs mind was still on his Anchorage, whither shortly he betooke himselfe againe,, and in contempt of Honour, ended his life in his Cell. But it shall be no part of his Funerall Prayses thus to unman himselfe to contemplate himselfe into a God or a Silvanus, for what was this else then to excom- municate himselfe from the Common-weale, and to sinne against the definition of a Man, to whom Societie is as naturall, as to bee a Creature ; and surely Religion cannot bee the motive of such an unnaturall act, but rather in all such Anchorites a melancholy distemper is usually mistaken for Devotion. Let such therefore enjoy e the curse of Nebuchodonosor the true Picture of an Hermite when he was turn'd out from the Company of Men to converse with Trees anclfeede among BeastSj 168 THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBERT, for though, ******** * * * * yet the transmutation will he so much the more enclyning to the worse, hy how much a Man is more symbolicall with a Beast then with a Deitie. His last Will and Testament was to his Monkes to bury him at the East side of his Oratory, in a Coffin* that Venerable Cudda the Abbat gave him, which they should finde hid in the Ground at the North side of his Cell, and to putt his Corps in the Shirt that Verca Abbattesse of Tinmouth had sent him for a * Of this stone coffin, a miraculous story is related : — During the wanderings of the Monks at the period of the Danish inva- sion, the holy corpse of St. Cuthbert is said to have floated in it down the Tweed from Melrose to Tillraouth ; " In his stone coffin forth he rides, (A ponderous bark for river tides !) Yet, light as gossamer it glides Downward to Tillmouth cell." Marmion, Canto II, The story, however marvellous, is, perhaps, not entirely destitute of foundation. The boat or coffin in question, still exists, (though broken in two pieces) near the ruined chapel of Tillmouth ; it is finely shaped, ten feet in length, three and a half in diameter, and only four inches thick, and has been proved, by statistical experiments, to be certainly capable of floating with a weight equal to that of a human body. — Surtees' History of Durham. Hutchinson mentions a circumstance which continues to be repeated among the Northumbrian peasantry : — " There was some years ago, a design to convert this hallowed vessel to a mean purpose, a peasant having devised to pickle pork in it, or thereout to feed his hogs ; to preserve it from such profanatioHj the spirits of darkness broke it iu the night \" BISHOP OF LTN01SFARNE. 1(50 token (which for the reverence of that holy Woman, he had never worn in his life lime,) and lastly, if the Pagans shoukl invade them, and force them to flye, tliat they should carry with them his Bones : All these desires were performed; onely at the weeping request of the Monkes, he permitted that his Body should bee transported to Lindisfarne, where in St. Peter's Chxircli at the right side of the High Altar, he was solemnly enshrined Anno Domini 687.* Now were the tymes when the Doctrine of Merits began to build Churches, and Religious Howses to multiply in such swarmes, that all England seem'd but one great Monastery, and was call'd by the Pope, the Land of the Clergy : But Tyme that hath the sublunary World for her continuall Banquet, hath so fed upon these auncient Buildings, that some ,sliee hath quite devoured, others pickt to the bones, and what she left for standing Dishes, Hostility hath defaced ; besides that great Clymactericall yeare and death of Churches, \\hen Henry the Eighthdurst incurre those Anathemata which attended the violation of Abby Lands ; Si de tot IcBsis sua mimina quisque Deorum Vindicet, in poenas non satis unus erit. But I most bewayle those Abbyes whose names are buried in their Ashes, and whose very Ruines suffer * Obiit pater reverendissimus in Insula Fame, multum depre- catiis fratres ut ibi qnoque sepeliretur ; attamen tandem eorum precibns victus assensum dedit ut ad Insulam Lindisfarnensium relatus in Ecclesia deponeretur. — Bede His, Ec. Lib. IV. c. 29. 1^0 THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBERt, the death of a Sepulchre, and dye twice> because they want a Monument that they once lived. Of those Monuments of Devotion which h*ve the life of Memory, betweene Lindisfarne and Barwicke^ stood Coldingham^ Hbha the Abbatisse whereof re- ceived her Vaile from Finanus the second Bishop of the Holy Island^ and was a Monastery, (such was the Chastity of those tymes) both of Munkes and Nuns. At Alnwick there Was a Priory of Carmelite or WJdte Fryers founded by John Lord Vesy, the first bringer in of this Order Anno 1240. Among the Bemicians alsoe was the Episcopall Seate of Hayustald or Hexam, which MalmeshuriensiSf somewhat mistaken in the scale of Myles, placeth buf 60 Myles from Yorke^ and commends it for the beauty of Structure before any Building on this side i\ifi Alpes* This sumptuous work was built by St, Wilfride anno 675, and endowed with Lands by Queene Etheldred Wife to King Ecfrid. In this Church sate 9 Bishops, among whom the learned John of Beverley* (not to be named of an * Joannes Beverlacius (John of Beverley) was born of a noble family at Harpham in Northumberland, and was justly esteemed one of the best scholars of his time. He was first a monk, and afterwards abbot of the monastery of St. Hilda, when his merit recommended him to the favour of Alfred, king of North- umberland, who, in the year 685, advanced him to the See of Hagustald or Hexham, and in 687 translated him to the arch- bishopric of York. In 704, he founded a College at Beverley for secular priests ; and after he had governed the See of York 34 years, being tired of the tumults and confusions that prevaileJ in / BlSHOt OF LINDISFARNfi. 171 Oxford Man without a Preface of Honour) advanced to that Dignity by King Egfrid, sway'd the Pastoral Staffe 'till he was translated to Yorke. In his younger years he had his Education under Hilda* Abbatisse of Strenshall or Whitby ; after ward he was Scholler to that Genius of Learning Theodore Archbishop of Canterbury y who was the first that brought Learning into England, as well as Religion, instructing in the Greek and Ma- thematicks many famous SchoUars, as Venerable Beda, St. Wilfridy St. Herebald, and this John of Beverly , who at the Translation of the Schoole at Greekelade (planted there by Theodore) to Oxford, was the first Master of Arts, as appeares out of an auncient Window 'in Salisbury Library under John of Beverly e^s Picture ; which age of 750 yeares is enough to proove Cambridge the younger Sister, 'till it shall be proved that Granta was one of those Schooles which Sigebert King of the East Angles is reported in Bede to have founded. But to returne to Saint Cuthbert, who had now an eleven yeares lyen in his Sepulchre, when the Monkes thought to place his Bones, by this time drye and the church, divested hhnself of the episcopal character and retired to Beverley, where he died 4 years afterwards, on the 7th May, 721. * Hilda was the daughter of Hereric, grandson of king Edwin ; her sister Heresuid was mother of Adulf, king of the East Angles. Hilda was early devoted to a religious life, and first founded a small monasteiy on the North of the Wear, then removed to Heruteu, and afterwards to Whitby, where she died in 674. — Surtees^ History of Durham. Q IK'2 THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBEiir, disrobed of flesli, among their oilier Reliques, ibr kisses and adoration: But behold a Wonder! They looke for a Skeleton, but found an entire Body, with Joints flexible, and Flesh so succulent, that there onely wanted heate to make his Body live without a Soule ; nay his very Funerall Weedes were soe fresh, as if Putrefaction had not dared to pluck him by the iJoate.* This was rather to pay his Debt to Heaven then to Nature; who after he had restored his Soule to God,, should keepe back the payment of his Body from Corruption. In other Men it is true, that Sleepe is the Image of Death, but here the Grave sufler'd a Clieat, and Death was the Image of Sleepe. This Miracle St, Beda reports (who was an eleven , yeares old at St. Cnthherfs death) in relating whereof he made noe lye, but perhaps told one. The History of whose Life and Death, he writ from the Information of the Menkes of Lindisfuine, who had defloured all the Miracles of Saints in Holy Writt, and bestowed them upon their Sf. Cvthhcrt ; who, like Man in Pa- radise, had the Beasts to doe him Homage, and Sea Monsters to aske him Blessing: Like Abraham he entertavned three Angells at the Monasterie of Bippoti : A Haven brought Elias Flesh, and an Eagle brought St. Cuthhtrt Fish. As he sayFd M'ith his Mother from L eland, his native Soyl, into Scotland he lett the * Aperientes sepulchriim ejus fratres invenerunt corpus totuni ejus quasi adhuc viveret, integrum et flexilibus artuuni conipagi- bus, niulto dormienti quam mortuo similius, sed et vestlnienta, pri.-ea uovitate et claritate miranda parebant. — Simeon. BISHOP OF LINDISFARNE. 173 Book of Psaluies fall into the Sea, wliich forthwith was swallowed up of a Sea-Calfe, and by the same Fish delivered to them at their landing. Take here the Psalter for a Man, and the Sea-Calfe for a Whale, and jou have the History of lonas, with many such Histories of wonder, with which the Monkes delighted the Superstition of the times. After this illustrious Miracle of St. Cuthberfs In- corruption, Lindisfarne rais'd itselfe to that height of renowne, that Ceolwolpkus^ the King, to whom Bede dedicates his English Historic, resigned an Earthly Orowne to gaine a Celestiall one, and tooke upon him the habitt of a Monke in Lindisfarne; a welcome Man f you may be sure to that Monastery, for whose sake, it was graunted the Monkes there to drinke Wine or Ale, who before were onely to drinke Milke or Water, though they that dranke after Saint Cuthbert in his Cupp, found sometimes Water turn'd into Wyne with- out a Miracle. Many Kingly Treasures did this devout Prince bestowe upon that Monastery, with such large Posses- sions, as he seem'd rather to resigne his Kingdome to the Church than to his Successour, and became a Monke to make St. Cuthbert a King : For he endowed * Ceolwolfe (or Ceolwolphus) was king of Northumberland. He abdicated the throne about 738, and retired to Lindisfarne, where, as it is said, he afterwards died, in the odour of sanctity. Kelwulf in Northumberland became monk in Lindisfarne, yet none of the severest, for he brought these monks from milk and water to ale and wine, — Milton, 174 THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBERT, that Monastery with all the Land betweene the Rivers of Tees and Weer, and many Townes and Lordships, as Warkwortk Castle^ Billingham, Gedwortk, (where Ceolwolphus built the Church,) and diverse other Vil- lages, as Woodcestrey Hutingham, Bresgen^ Eduling- ham, names that for ought I know, have outlived their Townes, or Townes that have changed their Names. This famous and Royall Monke honours with Lis Tombe the Church of Norham, which JRanulphus Bishop of Durham fortified with a Castle. After the manifestation of this Miracle of bodily Immortality after Death, Eadfrid then Bishop, caused him to be lay'd in a new Sepulchre, and to be advanced for State and Reverence above the Pavement in the Sanctuary, for it was not fitt that he should have Uis^ Grave among the Dead, whose Body lived by Sanctity when his Soule was gone. Now they began to worship the very Ground St» Cuthbert had troad upon, whose Sanctity was such, that he made every place he came in a Church ; and Eadfrid in honour of St. Cuthbert's presence, there built up bis Hermitage; where, as if a Genius of Sanc- tity had frequented that place, Ethelwald a Monke of Mippon lived an Hermite twelve Yeares.* * After the death of St. Cuthbert, Ethelwold, who took on him the religious habit at Ripon, resorted to this heiinitage, and possessed it twelve years, ending his life there. Felgild suc- ceeded Ethelwold, and in the time of that hennit, Eadfrid, bishop of Lindisfame, restored from its foundations the oratory of St. Cuthbert, which had gone to ruin.~In the year 1244, Thottiasi BISHOP OF LINBISFARNE. 175 Tims for a long tyme flourished the Menkes of that Church in great repute and prosperity, till the Danes disturbed their Peace, wlio now began to make Incur- sions upon the Frontiers of this Land, for many yeares continueing their Piracies, till they had made a final Conquest, which at length yeilded to the Norman Sword. Those were the tymes, when so many Mo- nasteries (which the Devotion of former Ages had erected) had their Funerals : Then perished that famous Emporium of Hartlepoole, where the religious Hieu built a Nunnery, of which I may speake as Hildehert of Rome, Quam magna fueris integray fracta doces ; whose Ruines shew how great shee was in her glory, but now remaynes to Passengers both a Monument of Devotion and Hostility : Then were demolished the two Monasteries of St. Peter and St. Paid at Were- mouth and Jarroiv, built by the Reverend Abbats Celfrid and Benedict: These two Societies mutual Fraternity had so united, that they seemed but one Monastery in two places, and shall ever bee ffmious, whiles the Memory of Beda shall bee honoured of the learned ; for he had his Education under Benedictns, de Melsonby, pilar of Durham, resigned his office of prior, and retired to Farn Island, where the hermit Bartholomew then was in occupation of the sacred cell of St. Cuthbert ; in which retreat he wrote his Farn Meditations, now preserved in the Dean and Chapter's Library at Durham. Here the prior spent the rcuminder of his life in devotion and austerities. o 3 17G THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBERT, a Man whom Antiquity defrauds not of those due Prayses, that he furnished his Monastery with choice Bookes from beyond Sea, and was the first that brought into England the use of Glasse Windowes, which before were glazed with Clotli.* But in his riper yeares he was instructed in Secular Learning by Theodore, under whom he attayned to that maturity of Judgment, that never Writer brought more honour to his Nation. Pope Sergins in a Letter to Celfrid the Abbat, greatly desired to see him at Rome, but not satisfying the Pope's request, he ended his Life in Jarrow,f trans- * The conveniences of life, at this time were little understood or esteemed. Houses amongst the Anglo-Saxons were almost universally l)uilt of wood, whilst their coverings were generally long reeds, which, in latter ages, were exchanged for straw. Windows were commonly formed of paper or linen, or lathes of wood ; and even in Cathedrals, glass was almost unknown. The fine Cathedral of Hexham (the ruins of which still exist) was without glass windows at its first erection, the latter end of the seventh century. The Monastery of Wearmouth was erected G74, by Benedict Biscop, who procured artificers from France, with glassmakers, whom he ol)taiued to glaze the windows of his church and mo- nastery, (an art at that time unknown in England.) These arti- ficers instructed the English in the art of making glass for win- dows, lamps, and drinking utensils. — Note to Cottle's Alfred. t Sacrorum librorum compositor Venerabilis presbyter et mo- nachus Beda, ilia Ecclesiai Catholicae luccrna ad eam quae se illu- minaverit lucem ; ilia vena aquae salientis in vitam acternam, ad fontem vivum, Deura pervenit. — Sbneon, Lib. I. c. 14. Beda in extremo mundi angulo vivens latuit, sed post mortem per universas mundi partes omnibus, in libris suis vivens innotuit. — Ihkl. This great luminary of literature was born in the year 673, and died May 26, 735. — For an account of Bede's Life and Writings, xide Cave's Hidoria Lilei'uria,^m\ Smith's etUtion of Bede, BISHOP OF LINDISFARNE. 177 lating in the tyme of his sickness St. John's Gospell into English ; an haynous crime in those days in the Church of Rome, where the I'eople must he carry ed hoodwinkt to Heaven, least any but the Priests should knowe the way thither. The Furie of the Danes still encreasing, continued by the Sea-costes to Tinmouthy so that it was now tyme for the Monkes of Lindisfarne to looke about them ; for they well understood by the lamentable usage of their neighbouring Abbyes that the Danes would not, like the Devill, bee affrighted with holy Water, and saw by the bad successe of other Monasteries, that it was not safe trusting to the protection of a Saint, and so concluding upon flight, putting all their Reliques into >S'^ Cuthberfs Coffm, they left the Pagans the spoyle of an empty Church, anno Domini 893.* It was Eardulphusf his fortune to bee Bishop in * Worse it fared with Lindisfarne, where the Danes landing pillaged that monastery, and of Fryers killed some, carried away others captive, sparing neither priest nor lay, which many strange thunders and fiery dragons, with other impressions in the air seen frequently before, were judged to foresignifie. — Milton, t Eardulph, the sixteenth and last bishop of the church of Lindisfarne. He was a man of great merit. He and Eadred, the abbot, hearing of the coming of the Pagan Danes, took with them the body of St. Cuthbert, and fled from the church of Lin- disfarne, after two hundred and forty-one years since the Episco- pal See and college of monks had been instituted there, and in the year of Grace, eight hundred and seventy-five ; and wander- ing from place to place for seven years, to escape the fury of the Danes, at length brought the said body to Chester in the Street, where it and the Episcopal See continued an hundred and thirteen years. — Antiquities of Durham Ahhcxj. 178 THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBERT, these troublesome tymes, who with his whole Cleargy and Families of People, followed this sacred Bier; which, besides seaven Monkes, as deputed Esquires of his Body, none durst presume to touch. These Mi- series had beene enough to have unsainted St. Cuthbertf when pursued both by forreine Foes, and overtaken with an home-bred Enemy, Famyne, he could afford them no releife. They were now come to the first Sea, and might complaine^ as the old Brittancs did to Aetivs the Consull, Repellnnt nos Barhari ad mare; repellit mare ad Barbaras ; inter hcec duo oriuntvr genera fvnei'iim, aut jiigulamurj ant mergimvr. But because the disrespective Sea would not divide itselfe at the approach of St. Cuthbert, the Bishop Avith some fewe of his Monkes, determin'd privily to sayle over into Ireland with his Corps, that there he might finde rest for his Toumbe, where he first had his Birth. But they had not farre sail'd from the Shore, but the Winds and the Sea were both up in Armes against their Shippe,* which both JEolns and Neptune might have reverenced for her sacred Carryage of a Bishop and his Clergy : But the Sea roared soe loud, that noe Prayers for St. Cuthbcrt could bee heard, but threaten'd them so near with Shipwracke, as they had not that Confidence in their Saint, as to encourage tlie * Simeon says they were driven back by waves of hhod ! — " Tres mirai magnitudinis undae horritico cum munnure superve- nientes navim mediam pene usque ad tabulas impleverunt,., atque terribili miraculo protinus in san^inem convertebantur !"— ub. J I. c.n. BISHOP OF LINDISFARNE. 179 Marriners as Caesar did, Ne metues, Cuthbertum vehis ! who now himself wanted some other Saint to invocate for helpe, and was in daunger to bee drowned after he was dead. Where had then beene the Church of Durham^ and the Devotion of Kings to his Sepulcher? Where had then beene the Tutelarie Deity against the ScottSy and the Lande of the Church called St, Cuth- bert's Patrimony ? How then should his Halywarke- folke* bee freed from Tribute and Service in Warre, and the Menkes of Durham fed soe many yeares with ease and fatt Revenues, if now their Saint had beene entombed in the Sea, and erected his Episcopal Seate among the Fishes ? This sacrilegious Storme strucke this Shippe with such a Palsie, that it shak't out the Text of the Evangelists into she Sea: This Book Eadfrid Bishop of Lindisfarne had writ out with his owne hand, and Belfrid the Anchorite had curiously paynted and guilded it, in which Art the Menkes were admirably expert ; not that T taxe in them this Quality, but onely, it argued the Menkes were at great leasure. Thus, whether the Sea, as envying the Land such a precious Jewell as St. Cuthbert, or he himself to shew his dislike for Ireland^ had raised this Storme, it was not long 'till in a Calme they were carryed to the Shore from whence they sett forth : But great sorrow * The ministers of religion among the Anglo-Saxons, were exempted from military services, and forbid'Ien the use of arms, that they might not be diverted from a constant attention to the duties of their sacred functions. 180 THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBERT, you must imagine was for the drowned Booke, 'till one Htindredvs (one of the seven that carryed tlie CofFyn) was bid in a Night Vision by St. Cuthbert, to goe seeke it on the Shoare at WhitternCy where he found it in its former Beautie and Splendour,* which was kept in Prior Tvrgofs tyme in Durham, in me- mory of the Miracle ; when the Water seem'd to run out of herselfe to doe homage to St. Cvthbert, and would rather loose her nature then wett his Book. If this were true, then I am sure that St. CathherVs Bookes had twice better fortune in the Sea, then they liave now in his Library at Durham, which was once a little Vatican of choyce Manuscripts, but now rather a /3*/3A/oTa9e Saintships of Thomas of Becket and .9^ Cuthhert, when they pretended such amity betweene those two Saints, that by way of exchange, they that belonged to Sf. Thomas, must goe and be heah^l by St. Cuthhert, and they ^^hicli belonged to St. Cuthhert, must goe to be made whole by St. Thomas; a small Jouiney for a sick Man to take, betweene Canterbury and Durham! But the Monkes knew well, that some would not bee able to undertake such a Pilgrimage, others rather to use the Saintshipof a Phisitian, some againe rather to he content to dye at home, others perhaps to recover T)y the way, or dye in their Journey ; or else to save the credit of their Saint, the}' might take such an Or- der, they should never come thither. But to return to the Monkes of Chester, who M'ith their Bishop enjoyed such quiet and calme of ease. BISHOP OF IJNDISFARNE. 180 that tliey made no noyse in any History, 'till the ru- mour of the landing of the Danes once more troubled their rest: This was tlie 115 yeare after they seated themselves in Chester \ when Aldicin their Bishop, and Schoolmaster to EdwardWiQ Confessor, was warn'd by St. Cuthbert in a Dreame, to avoyd the fury of the Pagans; and once more to fly with his Body to Rip- pon. But after six moneths, and Peace concluded, in their return at Wardelanf neere Dunholme, there hap- pened a weighty Miracle : For St. Cuthberfs Coffin was soe heavy, that all the Country that attended the Corps, could not move the Waine that can-yed them, by which St. Cuthbert intimated unto them soe much of his Mind, that he would not bee brought againe to Chester, and soe they remayn'd full of perplexity, 'till after the preparative of three dayes fast, it was revealed to Eadma-nis a devoute Monke,t that jyunholme was the place of his perpetual rest, and then one or two could drawe the Wayne, which before, the whole Dia- cesse of the People could not soe much as move. * Jamqne cum prope Dunhelmnm adorientalem plagaminlo- cnm quendara qui Wiedelau dicituradvenissent, vehiculum quo sacra corporis theca ferebatur ulterius promoveri non poterat : Accedunt plures,sed nil profecerunt : Incorrupti corporis theca velut mons quidam mansit immota. — Simeon, Lib. III. c. 1. t Cuidam religioso, nomine Eadmero, rev^elatuni estut ad Dun- helmnm illud transferre ibidemque requiescendi sedem debuissent prasparare, qua revelatione omnibus patefacta, gaudio elevati, ad locum coelitus ostensum Dunhelmnm cum Icetitia et laude corpus- sanctum detulcrunt. — Jbid. 190 THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBERT, The Topography of Dvnholme* at that tyme was, that it was more beholding to Nature for Fortification than Fertilitie ; where thick Woods both hindred the Starres from viewing the Earth, and the Earth from the prospect of Heaven. Here the Monkes with ex- temporary Devotion, instead of a Church, built an Arbour of Boughs for St. Cuthbert, and from thence translated it into Whitkyrk (for three years) whilst Aldwinus the Bishop raised no small Building of Stone worke for his Cathedral Church, where all the People between Coqued and Tees three yeares were at worke, and were paid for their paynes with Treasure in Hea- ven, than which, there was never a dearer or cheaper way to build Churches. Into this new Basilicay St, Cuthberfs restless Body in the three hundred and ninth yeare after his first Bu- riall, was with all Funeral Pompe enshrin'd. Now among the Monkes that attended St. Cuthbert to Dunholme, I find one Rigulfus that had lived 210 yeares ; an History to bee rank't under the same com- mon place with the wand'ring Jewe ; a poore Monu- ment to be remembred by ; sith he gives noe account to Posterity how he spent soe many yeares ; for where meerely long Age is the commendation of a Man, I may well graunt he had a long beeing, not a long life. Another of St. Cuthberfs Followers was Eadred a * Dunhelmum locum quidem natura munitum sed non facile ha> bitabilem, quoniam densissima undique silva totum occupaverat. Tantum in medio planicies erat non grandis, quam arando et semir nando exolere consueverant." — Simeon^ 1. ///. c. 2, BISHOP OF LINDISFARNE, 191 Monke, who for six yeares before he dyed was dumbe, an?l could never speake but in the Church, where (as if Religion had lent him a Tongue when Nature de- nyed) none was more vocal to sing his part.* These were the beginnings of the Church of Dur- ham, Avhere Aldivimis first ascended the Episcopal Tlirone, anno Domini 996, in the Raigne of King Etheldredy \\\\o gave .S*^. Cuthherty Darlingion with the Appurtenances ; to which Possessions, Siiaculplms one of the Nobility added Bridbyny, Mordun and Soc- hurg ; soe ready was the Devotion of those tymes to give all to the Church, to receive it in Heaven; whiles the Monkes were well content to enjoy themselves here in this life, as if they oiiely before other Men had this Priviledge, to bee happy in both Worlds. Aldivinus dying the 24ili yeare after his removal to Durham, lefte onely the West Tower of his Chujch for Eadmujid his Successour to finish, who was chosen Bisliop by a voyce out of St. Cuthbert's Tombe,t or * The body of St. Cnthbert was supported by seven stout hear- ers, selected from the religious or their attendants. To be con- nected with any one of these, was, in the subsequent ages of the church, considered as liighly honourable. In his thirty-sixth chapter, Simeon has given us the names of four of these bearers : Hunred, Stitheard, Edmund, and Franco ; and lias also enume- rated several of their descendants ; one of these^ he further tells us, a monk, named Eadred, excelled so much in cathedral chaunt- ing, that St. Cuthbert, lest he should employ his talents to a worse purpose, kindly deprived him of the jiower of utterance beyond the precincts of the church. — Surtees' History of Durham^ + In 102Q, Edmnnd, a secular priest of noble extraction, sue-, ceeded unexpectedly, as some ^ay, to this Soo. For, the clergy 1^ THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBERT, rather by a Monke his good friend, that lay hid under it; for to make good theProverbe, I doe not ween that St. Cuthhert ever dranke in his Porredgei tliat he should speake in his Grave, But without jesting, Eadmund hath a report in Antiquity for a Reverend Prelate, and it was the honour of his dajes, that the Danes now be- came "Worshippers of St. Cuthbert in Durham, who from Pagans turu'd Christians in that excess of Devo- tion, that Canutus their King came five miles barefoot to St, Cuthberfs Tombe, and as if he meant to make satisfaction for the wrong his Ancestors had done to that Saint, he gave him soe many Townes as would breath a fatt Monke to repeat them, Wakerjieldj Even- clod, Aclyfy Luteringtony Ingletun, Middletun, Stain- dropf with such like, and Raby, where the Predecessors of the Nevills built the Castle, and held it of the Church of Durham, for the annual Rent of four Pounds and an Hart. The Monkes of Durham bare now that State, and liad soe faire a Church for their Saint, that they were ashamed that he had ever lyen at Chester, where the disagreeing among themselves about the election of a bishop, the See was vacant almost three years, till Edmund jocosely asked them " Why they did not think of him" — which speech had a very different effect from what he either designed or desired : For they took it for a motion of the spirit, and elected him their bishop. But the ancient records of the church of Durham say, that he was miraculously elected by a voice heard from the tomb of St. Cuthbert, in the time of divine service three sundry times, naming the said Edmund to be bishop. — Antiquities of Durham Abbey, BISHOP OF LINDISFARNE. 1^3 Church made of AVood seem'd to remauie a Monument of their former Poverty, *till Egilrick* tooke away this eye^sore^ and built in honour of Saint Cuthbert a Church of Stone i which meethinks, was but a post- humus honour, and like as if one should suffer his Guest to lye meanely, and to provide a better Lodgeing for him after he is gone. This Bishop in digging the Foundations of this Church, found soe great a Treasure of Coyne, that resigning his Prelateship to Egelwin his Brother, he teturn'd to his Abby at Peterborough : But the King hearing of his Welth, tooke occasion to picke a quarrel with him, and seazing on his Treasury, imprisoned him at Westminster; soe great a sinne was it for a Man to bee rich, when the King desired his Money. This King was the Conquerour, who requiring Tribute from St, Cuthbei'Vs Halywark-folke, sent thither his Exactor, whom the Saint in a sleepe soe beate with his Pastoral StafFe, that the next Morning not able to rise, he was glad to send his Cloake to St. Cuthbert's Shrine (which was there kept in Memory of the fact) and to aske Pardon before he could receave any ease* The King afterwards approaching Yorke with an Army, soe affrighted the Menkes of Durham, that once more they got St, Cuthbert upon their shoulders for Lindisfarne : In which flight I finde their Gists were these ; the first night to Jarro or Yarroff; the second to Bcdlington ; the third to Tngahala ; and tho Vide page 133 ante* ID4 THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBERt, fourth to the Holy Island : But more affraid than hurt^ they shortly return'd againe to Durham : But the Conquerour returning out of Scotland, desired to see the Body of their Saint, which the Monkes soe long delayed, (least they should hazard their credit to finde Bones instead of Flesh) that they strucke the King with such an heatc of ChoUer,* that in a rage he tooke Horse, and never stayed his coarse 'till he was out of the Precincts of the Bishoprick where with pardon for his boldnesse to the Saint, he recover'd his former Temper, restoring divers Villages to St. Cuthbert, which had beene taken away. Thus St. Cuthbert had the Victory over the Conquerour, and brought him under his Religion, who had subdued the Land under his Sword : For after this the King had a reverend Opinion of St. Cuthbert, All this while the Church of Durham was but grow- ing to her acme and height of Glory which she had under that magnificent Prelate Gulielmus de Carilefo, who thought the Church that Aldwiu built, too little for soe great a Saint; who taking downe the former layed the foundation of a more ample and spacious Church, such as wee see it at this day ; the three first Stones being in great solemnity layed by Malcolmus King of Scotland, the Bishop hiraselfe, and Prior Turgotf August 11th, 10D3; for which famous work0 Anthony Beake one of his Successours with a great Sume of Money, got him to be canoniz'd and enroVd among ihc Saints. Tide page 11 ante. BISHOP OF LINDISFARNE; 195 This reverend aged Abby is seated in the heart of the Citty, advanced upon the shoulders of an high Hill, and encompassed againe with the higher Hills, that he that hath scene the situation of this Citty, hath scene the Map of Sion, and may save a Journey to the Jerusalem. Shce is girded almost rownd with the re- nowned River of Weer, in which, as in a Glasse of Crystall, shee might once have beheld the beauty, but nowe the mine of her Walls. To this sumptuous Church, was the last and great Translation of St. Cuthbertf but before the day came, Prior Turgot with some of his Brethren determined to open his Tombe,t with intent to shew his Body to * " And after many wanderings past, He chose his lordly seat at last, Where his Cathedral huge and vast, Looks down upon the Wear : There, deep in Durham's gothic shade, His relics are in secret laid ; But none may know the place : Save of his holiest servants three Deep sworn to solemn secrecy. Who share that wond'rous grace." This allusion has reference to a notion entertained by the Vulgar, that the Northumbrian Catholics still keep secret the precise spot of the Saint's sepulture, which is only entrusted to three persons at a time. When one dies, the survivors associate to them, in his room, a person judged fit to be the depository of 80 valuable a secret.— Firfe Notes to Scott's Marmion. t William, the second bishop of Durham after the Conquest, had collected for the sei-vice of his cathedral a society of monks, and dissatisfied with the low and obscure church of his predecess- ors, had laid the foundation of a more stately fabric. In the year One thousand one hundred and four it was nearly completed { S 196 THE HISTORY OF ST.CUTHBERT, the People, if they found it entire : Att Night there- fore ihey mett at his Sepulchre, and reverently taking And the twenty-ninth of August was announced as tlie day on which the incorrupt body af St. Cuthbert would be transferred from the old to the new church. The nobility and clergy of the neighbouring counties were invited to the ceremony ; and Rich- ard, abbot of St. Alban's, Radulfus, abbot of Seez,, in Normandy, and Alexander, brother to the king of Scots, had anived to honour it with their presence. But among the crowd of noble and learned visitors, the whispers of incredulity were heard ; the claim of the monks was said to rest on the faith of a vague and doubtful tradition ; and it was asked, where were the proofs that the body of the Saint was entire, or even that his a^hes reposed in the church of Durham ? Who eould presume to assert, that at the distance of four centuries, it still remained in the same state as at the time of Bede ? or, that during its numer- ous removals, and the devastations of the Danes, it had never perished by the negligence or flight of its attendants ? These reports alarmed the credulity of the monks; and that alarm was Considerably increased by the intelligence, that the bishop him- self was among the number of the sceptics. With haste and secrecy the brotherhood was summoned to the chapter house ; the advice of the more discreet w as asked and discussed ; and, after a long and solemn consultation, it was determined that Tnrgot, the prior, with nine associates, should open the tomb in the silence of the night, and make a faithful report concerning the state of its contents. As soon as their brethren were retired to rest, the ten visitors entered the church. After a short, but fervent prayer, that God ^vould pardon their temerity, they removed the masonry of the tomb, and beheld a large and ponderous chest, which had been entirely covered with leather, and strongly secured with nails, and plates of iron. To separate the top from the sides, required their utmost exertions ; and within it they discovered a second chest of dimensions more proportionate to the human body, and wrapped in a coarse linen cloth, which had previously been dipped in melted w ax. That it contained the object of their search, all were agreed : But their fears caused a temporally suspension of their lal)Ours. From the tradition of their protU'CPssors tiiey had BISHOP OF LINDISFARNE. 197 off the Stone, tliey found a Chest well fortified with Nayies and Leather, and in it another wrapt in a Cloth learnt, that no man had ever presumed to disturb the repose of the Saint, and escaped the instantaneous vengeance of heaven. The stories of ancient times crowded on their imaginations: Engaged in a similar attempt, they expected to meet each mo- ment with a similar punishment ; the silence of the night, the sacredness of the place, the superior sanctity of their patron, suded these impressions, and at last an almost general wish was expressed to abandon so dangerous an experiment. But Turgot was inflexible. He commanded them to proceed ; and, after a short struggle, the duty of obedience subdued the reluctance of terror. By his direction they conveyed the smaller chest from behind the altar to a more convenient place in the middle of the choir ; unrolled the cloth ; and, with trembling hands, reared up the lid. But instead of the remains of the Saint, they found a copy of the Gospels, lying on a second lid, which had not been nailed, but rested on three transverse bars of wood. By the help of two iron rings, fixed at the extremities, it was easily removed, and disclosed the body lying on its right side, and apparently entire. At the sight, they gazed on each other in silent astonishment ; and then, retiring a few paces, fell prostrate on the floor, and repeated in a low voice the seven psalms of penitence. Gradually their fears were dispelled ; they arose, approached the body, lifted it up, and placed it respect- fully on a carpet spread on the floor. In the coflin they found a great number of bones wrapped in linen, the mortal remains of the other bishops of Lindisfarne, which to facilitate the convey- ance, the monks had deposited in the same chest, when they were compelled to leave their ancient monastery. These they collected and transferred to a different part of the church ; and, as the hour of matins approached, hastily replaced the body in the coffin, and carried it back to its former situation behind the altar. The next evening, at the same hour, they resumed the in- vestigation ; and the body was again placed on the floor of the choir. They discovered that it had been originally dressed in a linen robe, a dalmatic, a chasuble, and a mantle. With it had been buried, a pair of scissors, a comb of ivory, a silver altar, a patine, and a small chalice, remarkable for the elegance and 108 THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBERT, thrice double, in which they found the Booke of the Evangelists which had fallen into the Sea, a little silver richness of its ornaments. Having snrveyed the body, till their veneration and curiosity were satisfied, they restored ittotfaetomb in which it had formerly reposed, and hastened to communicate the joyful intelligence to their anxious and impatient brethren. The following morning the monks were eager to announce the discovery of the preceding nights, and solemn act of thanksgiv- ing was performed to publish their triumph, and silence the doubts of the incredulous. But their joy was soon internipted by the rational scepticism of the abbot of a neighbouring monas- tery. Why, he asked, was the darkness of the night selected as the most proper time to visit the tomb ? Why were none but the monks of Durham permitted to be present ? These circum- stances provoked suspicion. Let them open the coffin before the eyes of the strangers who had come to assist at the translation of the relics. To grant this, would at once confound their adver- saries ; but to refuse it, would be to condemn tliemselves of im- posture and falsehood. This unexpected demand, with the insinuations by which it was accompanied, roused the indrgnation of the monks. They appealed to their character, which had been hitherto unimpeached : They offered to confirm their testi- mony with their oaths : They accused their opponent of a design to undermine their reputation, and then to seize on their pro- perty. The altercation continued till the day appointed for the ceremony of the translation ; when the abbot of Seez prevailed on the prior Turgot, to accede to so reasonable a demand. To the number of fifty they entered the choir ; the chest, which enclosed the remains, was placed before them, and the lid was removed ; whenTurgot stept forvrard,and stretching out his hand, forbade any person to touch the body without his permission, and commanded his monks to watch with jealousy the execution of his orders. The abbot of Seez then approached, raised up the body, and proved the flexibility of the joints, by moving the head, the arms, and the legs. At the sight every doubt vanished ; the most incredulous confessed that they were satisfied ; the Te Deum was chaunted, and the translation of the relics was immediately performed with the accustomed ceremonies." — Lingard's Anti^ui* ties of the Anglo-Saxon Church. BISHOP OF LINDISFARNE. 199 Altar, a Goblet of pure Gold, with an Onix stone, and an ivory Combe. Lastly, opening the third Chest, they found the Body of their Saint (which the Grave in soe many yeares had not digested) lying upon his right side to give room to the rest of the Reliques : For in the same Coffyn were the Bones of Venerable Beda, the Head of St. Oswald^ part of the Bones of AidanuSf Eadfrid, and Ethelwold, Bishops of Lindis- fame : All which Reliques they placed with due reve- rence in other parts of the Church ; and laying St, Cuthhert on his back, they placed St. Oswald's Head betweene his Hands. At the day of his Translation, Ranulphus the Bishop published in his Sermon to the People, the Incorruption of St. Cutkbert's Body, which after 418 yeares was flexible, and now might plead Prescription with the Grave to be Immortall. And tlius in great solemnity they enshrined him behind the high Altar in the presence of the Abbat of St. Alban's the Abbat of .SY. Marie's in Yorke, the Abbat of St, German's, Prior Turgot, with thawsands of People Spectators of the Miracle. The Chest in which St. CuthberVs Body ivas deposited^ now in the Castle at Durham. s S 206 THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBERT, This was the Place of his rest, where were oflered BO manie Treasures ; that the Monkcs needed not to study Alchymie for Gold, having such a Philosopher's stone as St. Cuthberfs Tonibestone daily to turne the People's Devotion into Silver; who had that repute of Sanctity, that at this day you may see in his Shrine the pious Dilapidations of ancient Devotion, the very Stones gutterd and worne out with kneeling. Here for 400 y cares St. Cuthbcrt slept without disturbance, 'till Henry the eighth {like Darius with the Sepulchre of Semiramis) caused the Tumbes of Saints to be opened for to finde Treasures. Among whom, the Shrine of this Saint was ransakt, and his Coflyn broken open with such violence, that they wounded his Leg, and found his Body all entire, excepting the top of his Nose, which was perished. A small matter in a Carkas that had wanted a Soulc above 800 yeares. Neither was his Body onely but his Grave clothes soe free from Corruption, as if they had bcene kept in a Wardrobe rather that a Sepulchre. He had upon his Pinger a Ring with a Saph^r stone in it ; an unusual Ornament for other dead Men, but well befitted him, as the Marriage Ring of Incorruption. At this Spectale were present Doctor Spark, Doctor Toddy and William Witam, the Keeper of his Shrine. All this might bee true, and yet St. Cuikbert more beholden to the art of his Menkes, then to his o\^ n Sanctity for his Incorruption. For the old JEgyptians. did not think they made their Kings Saints, when by the art of C ore loths, they preserved their Bcdyes soe BISHOP OF LINDISFARNE. 2Ul niatiy Ages from Putrefaction. Neither was Para- celsus a God, wlien he made a Vegetable Man without a Soule. ]{ut let St, Cuthbert rest : In honour of whose Incorruption, noe Man in those dayes presumed to bee bnryed in the same Cburch with him : which honour William of Carilefc (though the Builder there- of) denyed hiraselfe, chardging the Monkes to enterre him in the Chapter house, where also lyeth entombed Bishop Walchcr Earle of Northumberland, who was slayne in Goatshcad Church.* Betweeue these two Bishops lyeth Turgotus, Prior and Archdeacon of Durham, and after Bishop of St. Andrev:e's in Scot- land, a polite Writer of the History of the Church of * Walcher, a vertuous Man, discended of noble Parentage, was elected Bishopp, and consecrated at Winchester atmo 1072, and continued about nine yeaies, but in the same ninth yeare, goeing to Gatishead to meete and conferre with certane Gentle- men and common People of Northumberland, for the appeaseing of some controversy growing betwixt the said People and his Servants, about certane injuries by them done to some of the same People ; in correcting whereof, the Bishopp had been some- what slack and negligent, bearing too much with his Servants. The said Bishopp with sundrie of his Cleargie and all his Sei-vants there attending, were by the said People most cruelly murdered at Gatishead. From whence, the Bishopp^s Corps was carrayed by Boate to Jarmw, by the Monkes of the same place, and from thence brought to Durham, and there bury ed with much lamenta- tion and little solemnity. For revenging of which detestable and sacreligious Murder, the Bishopp of Bathe, Brother to King William the Conquerour, was by the said King sent downe with an Armye, and comeing to Durham, he put many to death, and pitifully spoyled the Country, almost laying the same desolate, — From Allans printed Account of '■'■ The Origin and Succession of thji Bishops of DurhainJ" 202 THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBERT, Durham. In the same Chapter-howse is the Monu- ment oi Hugh Pusar, that famous Bishop, who bought the Earldome of Sudbury of K, Richard the first, for his Successours, and founded the Priorie of Finchale, in honour of ^aiw^ Goodrich, Avho there had a Cell; who because he is one of my County Saints, I will breifly describe his Life. In his younger age he was a Pedlar, and carried his moveable Shop from Fair to Fair upon his back ; afterward, to make a better fortune, he ventured into Flaunders, Denmark and Scotland, and in his way thither, used to visit the Holy Island, much delighting to heare the Menkes tell Wonders of St. Cuthbnrt ; which soe enfiamed his Devotion, that he undertooke a Pilgrimage to the holy Sepulchre ; and by the advice of St. Cuthbert in a dreame, repayred againe to the Holy Land, and Avashing his Feete in Jordan, there left his Shoes, with a Vow to goe barefoot all his life after. At Finchale he built his Cell of Thatch, dedicating it to the Virgin Mary, where he lived .63 yeares, in that heate of Devotion, that he would stand whole Winter-nights praying up to the Neck in the River that ran by his Cell ; which so angred the Devill, that one tyme he stole away his Clothes that lay on the bank side ; but spying him, he brought him back with a Pater and an Ave-muria and forcing the Devill to be just, against his Will, made him restore them, though his Apparell was soe coarse, that the Devill (the Thief) would scarce have worn them ; for his Jerkiji^ BISHOP OF LINDISf ARNE. 205 was of Iron, of which he had worn out three in the tjme of his Hermitage ; a strange Coat, whose stuiTe liad the Iron-monger for the Draper, and a Smith for the Taj'Iour : Neither was his Lodging softer than his Coat, who had a stone for his Pillow, and the ground for his Bed ; but his Djet was as coarse as either ; for to repent both within and without, as his Shirt was of Sackcloth, soe half the Meal that made him Bread, was Ashes. An Angell sometimes pla^'ed the Sexton, and rang his Bell to awake him to his Nocturnes, who for want of Beades, used to number his Prayers with Pebble Stones. The Devill Proteus-like, used to transforme himself into shapes before him, Avhicli ra- ther made him sport, than alFrighted him, which soe provok'd the Deviil, that as he sate by his fyre, he gave Goodrich such a box on the Ea^e, that had he not recovered himsclfe with the sign of the Crosse, he had feld him downe. He had the Psalter continually hanging on his little finger, M'hich with use, was ever after crooked. Thus after he had acted all the Mira- cles of a Legend, he ended his scene in the year 1170,* not deserving that honour confer'd upon his Cell by the forenamed Bishop Pusar, who told him, he should be seven yeares blind before his death, so that the Bishop deferring his Repentance till the tyme of his jM \}i)-\ — * Neubrigcnsis speaking of St. Godrick, says, " In cibo et potu, in verbo et gestu, homo simplicissimus, decente cum gra- vitate servare modum studuit, velox ad audiendum, tardus autem ad loquendum, et in ipsa locutione parcissimus." (Heupietasf heti prism fitks !) 204 THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBERT, blindness (which Goodrich meant of the eyes of his Understanding) dyed unprovided for Death : But if good Workes bee satisf actor ie, then died he not in debt for his sinnes, who repayr'd and built many of the Episcopall Manors, and founded the Manour and Church at Darlington^ and two Hospitalls, one at Alvertojif and the other at Sherburne neare Durham. He built also Elvet-hridgc with two Chappells upon it over the Weer^ and lastly, built that beautiful Worke the Galilee, now the Bishop's Consistory, and hither translated St, Bedes bones, which lye enterred under a Tomb of black Marble, from M'hich place the great Bell hath its denomination, and may seeme to bee the same, which I read to be drawne from London by two and twenty yoake of Oxen.* In tbis sumptuous Structure lyeth inshrined. Bishop Langhjy Cardinall and Chancelour of England, who built the Musique and Grammar Schooles, and finished the Cloysters, which Bishop Skirlaw had begun, who * But the most useful and important undertaking which this prelate performed, and which redounded much to his credit, was a general survey which he caused to be made of all the ancient demesne lands and possessions in his Bishopric, in the form and manner of Doomsday-book, which is recorded in a small folio, consisting of 24 pages, wrote in a bad hand, called Bolden Buke, now remaining in the archives at Durham. It contains inquisi- tions, or verdicts, of all the several tenures of lands, services, and customs ; all the tenants' names, of every degree ; how much each of them held at that time, and what rents were re- served for the same. This book has been produced and read in evidence on several trials at law, on the part of the succeeding bishops, in order to ascertain their property. BISHOP OF LINDISFARNE. 205 had spent upon them 200£. and left by his Will 200£. more "to finish them. This Bishop built the Distribi- tory, and two stately Bridges over the Weer at Shinkly and Neuton, and lyeth entombed under a faire Marble before the high Altar, where also lyeth Bishop Beau- mont, under a specious Tomb embroidered with brasse, to whom is referr'd the building of the Citty Walls. Not farre from him lyeth Anthony Beake Patriarch of Jerusalem, and Prince of the Isle of Man, who built the Chappell at the Manour of Auckland, and also Barnard and Anwick Castles, and made Chester a Col- legiate Church, with a Deane and seven Prebends. Very few ancient Monuments of Women I finde in this Church ; for 'till after tymes, noe AVoman was to enter into any Church that belonged to St. Cuthhert, since that tyme when he was a preaching, the Devill came to his Sermon in the likenesse of a very beautiful Woman, who soe drew away the attention of his auditors by gazing upon her, that St, Cuthhert by the throwing of holy Water at her, discryed her to be a Devill : But as for St. Cuthhert himself, I observe, his nature did not much abhorre the Company of his holy Sisters : For Hilda and Verca with other Abbatisses were of his intimate acquaintance, and if he had soe distasted that Sexe, he would uothave built aNunnery at Luel. Nay in his younger dayes, he was accused before the King of the Picts for deflouring his Daughter, though it must be said, it was the Devill in the likenesse of St. Cuthhert.* Vide page 13 ante. 206 THE HISTORY OF ST. CUTHBERT, Amongst othef Monuments of this Church, the brasen Desk is not the least, which was the joynt guift of a Reverend *Prebend of this Abby, and his Sonne, who added the Globe and the Eagle to that sumptuous Basis and Colunine (the guift of his Father) which was the twelfth part of a great Candlestick found hid in a Vault, who both lye buried under two Marble Stones inlayed with brasse, as you enter in at the Quire-dore on the left hand, where some part of this Church is paved with the Grave stones of my neere Friends. In an old Manuscript of a Monke of Durham, 1 find a Catalogue of the Reliques of this Abby, which were soe many, that it seem'd a Charnell-howse of Saints Bones ; for from hence at the Resurrection, St* Steph^ will fetch his Tooth, Zachary a. Leg, Simon an Arme, St, Christopher an Elbow, St. Lawrence a Finger, St. Ambrose some of his Haire, St. Ebbe her Foote, with many many more; besides, an whole Wardrop of Saints Apparrell, both Coats and Hoods, and Stockens of the Apostles, with diverse fractions of the Crosse, and the sacred Sepulcher. Now if you will know the price of Reliques in those da3'S, aske Malmesburiensisy what Egelnofhus the Arch- bishop at his returne from Rome, gave at Pavia for St. Avgustine's Arme, which cost no lesse Money, than an hundred Talents of Sylver, and a Talent of Gold, and was kept at Coventrie. And what might Robert Swift Sptritual Chancellor^ 'BISHOP OFI.INDISFARNE. ^Ot \ncve beene the price of St. Cuthbert's whole -body, when Elfrid the Monke made such account of one of iiis HaireSy which soe sympathized in Immortahty with the dead Body frurhmnh. Splendor Christi Sacerdotis^ Et vicinis et remotis Preeminet cum gloria. Lux Cuthberti fulget late^ Corporis integritate. Nee est transitoria. lucorrupta vernat Caro, Quam decare Rex preclara Celestis magnificat. Cujus Festum Celum plaudit, Cujus Terra laudes audit, Aspicit, et predicat.. ParvuU triennis ore Pontificali decore Ornandus asscritur., Augelo docente Dei,, Celo niissa salus ei^ \n geiuv cdocetur^ 212 AN ANTHEM FOR ST. CUTHBERT, Pene mersos in profundo, Prece saiicta, corde miindo, Litlori restituit. Animam ad Celos vehi Aidani, Viri Dei, Cemere promeruit. Panes nivei candoris, De supernis dedit oris Tribus allatoribus celitus, Quos per Angelum de Celis, Ministrari vir fidelis, Applaudit medituUitus. Bellue dum de profundi?, Gradiuntur maris imdis, llli dant obsequia. Futuri diem sereni, Predicit sermone leni, Vi precludens noxia. Lympham sibi Deus dedit, Heremita quo resedit. Ex humi duritia. Regem cito moriturum, Seque Presulem futurnm Certa dat indicia. Quern ab arbore cadentem, Celos vidit ascendenteni Ejus narrant premia. telSttOt OF LINDISFAHNE. 213 Chrisli mysticis refectus Sacramentis, et protecttts, Transit ad celestia. Sunt miracula pefplura, Obsistente que Natura Per hunc fiunt inclyta. Hec ad laudem Dei crescunt, Ablali nee delitescunt Sancti Viri merita. Ihtegris in Urna pannis, Quadringentis decern annk Et octo dormierunt : Nee putredo, nee vetustas, Imo splendor, et veiiustas Ilium circum dideruiit* Caput tuUm, Rex Oswalde J (Vir dilecte Deo valde) Hec Theca servaverat ; Et Bede sancti Doctoris, Qui celeslis est odoris, Ossa rccondiderat. t'ragrans odor Balsamoruiii Hos perfundit supcrnorum Qui presentes aderant t Qui in carne Dei virum Incorruptum (dictu mirum !) Cernere merucrant. AUG 18 1902 ^i^H "^ I