TS 1669 .B81 Copy 1 TTIxE BOOK" SERIES. THE STOPt^S' SILK MBROIDERY THE "LITTLE BOOK" SERIES. THE STORV SILK -^ EMBROIDERY '' '■ / Compliments of — „. - / THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG CO, NEW YORK, PHILADELPHIA, No. -169 B E O A 1) W A Y . "J 1 31 A K K E T S T K K E T . BOSTON, BALTIMORE, 5 Kingston Stkeet. 5 Hanover Street. CoPYKKiHT 1888, AND PUBLISHED BY CHABXES CHAMBERLAIN, THOMAb DANIELS, 13 P.UIK Row, New Yoek. /WARDED THE MEDAL OF SUPERIORITY Over nil other makes at the _^ AMERICAN INSTITUTE, 1885-1887. BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG'S U^tfading Asiatic Dyes^ ENDORSED AND USED B V THE SOCIETY OF DECORATIVE ART, NEW YORK, THE ASSOCIATED ARTISTS, NEW YORK', AND RECOGNIZED AUTHORITIES IN ART NEEDLEWORK EVERYWHERE. t~^(o(jO(r. Brainerd & Armstrong Co,, EXCLUSIVE DYERS OF SILK TO THE ASSOCIATED ARTISTS, NEW YORK. NEW FORK. PHILADELPHm. BOSTON. BALTIMORE, Only a Silken Thread, Slight, ytt stroug ; and with its origin dating so far in the j)ast' that the story of silk and 'its man- ufacture is, by the best historians, obscure and unsatisfactorj^. For silk, as for many other important discoveries which we now enjoy in their development and perfection, we are indebted to the Chinese. Our in- debtedness to the Celestial Empire is heavy. Art owes its gratitude in many ways. Science finds some of its most vahted attiiinments having their inception with tbe Chinese. Shut in behind the grea". walls of their cities, their people are, and alwavs have been workers, in their own way, self-sealed against intrusion, and jet giving out, occa«ionallj^, something of importance, while Chinese history, which began thousands of years ago, was making itself and the knowledge of tliis vast empire, second in its area only to Riassia, was hidden in uncertainty, if not in mystery. A peciiliar people, bavingjan individual existence that has made itself felt everywhere, the Chinese are the god-parents to ideas and inventions which others have eagerly caught and improved upon. About 2,000 B. C, from the cocoon of the silk worm the wife of the Chinese Emperor is said to have unwound the silk, found its usefulness, and imparted the discoverj^ to the imperial household. That unwinding of the thread from that cocoon 'was more to the civilized world than ever that Chinese Empress dreamed of ! And that little worm, building its cocoon ho ase about itself, became more important to the world than any other crawling fhiug that ever entered into the lists of the naturalists, with the Latin names of family to put it in place as cou&in direct to tbe moth and cousin-german to one of the greatest articles of commerce which the unborn gener- ations were to appreciate. The Silken Thread Spanning- the World is no misnomer. From China the product of the silk- worm found its way into the Eastern countries as a revelation, and in the Bible lands the Avorkers in silk bec.ime famoas, while the posses iion of fabrics made of it was esteemed a mark of distinction and luxury. We find this estimate recorded an Ezekiel, 16, 10-13, in the words : "I clothed thee also with broidered work, and shod thee with badger's skin ; and I ;;;iidetl thee aboiit with fine linen, and I covered thee with silk "Thus wast thou decked with gold and silver, and thy raiment was line linen and silk embroidered work." In Eome (A.D. 180), the value of a pound of silk was equal to a pound of gold, and by a singular dispensation of ethics or propriety of dress, the wearing of a silk gar- ment was considered as an ornament to a woman. The man who wore it was disgraced. Aristotle alhides to the silken fabrics, the material used for the weaving having been imported from China ; and under the reign of tbe Byzantine Enji^eror Justinian (A.D. 5^7-565), silk manufactures nourished, much of the Aveaving being done over fr..mes of hard wood or bone. The silkAvorm eggs and cocoons were brought into Constantinople by Persian monks, Avho concealed their treasure from the confiding Chinese. And Ave are told so much Avas silk appreciated that, under the patronage of the ralers, the best workers were employed, and Argos, Corinth, and Thebes became centres of the industry, the Greeks emploj'ing crude and laborious methods, the silk being brought from China. The ancient Egyptians were progressive, and by them also was silk made important. Fabrics of various bril- liant colors were woven from silk, and the embroidery upon thess was elaborate and beautiful . There is no record of silkworm culture in Egypt . They were satis- fied to draw their suppUes also from the Celestials— nor were these latter ungenerous in giving it. Silk found its way into Italy in 1147, by the capture of prisoners from the Greek cities, the captives being skilled in the art of manu- facture ; uhder the mastership of Eoger, King of Sicily, the first eftorts were made at Palermo, from which silk- making spread to Florence, Milan and Venice. Spain had its silk works at Granada, under the Moors ; and in 1564:, after nearly forty years of exf)eriment, silk manufacture took root in southern France, where also the cultivation of the white mulberry and the raising of silkworms was successfully encouraged. This was a great booQ to England. The denmnds of the Britons for the costly fabric, and the material for their embroidery had been previously met by importations from China and Italy, with which, aided by the English patronage, France soon established herself as a comi^etitor . England came to the front in silk manufacture under the reign of James I, but under many disadvantages, the prodiictions of the French being so highly estimated that the efforts of the King were not enthusiastically received. Silli-working was not, however, totally disregarded, and under James II, in 1685, a factory was established at Spitalfields under the management of a number of French exiles, who car- ried the industry to such perfection tbat the Spitalftelds silks were regarded as equal to those made in Italy. To James I. is to be credited the introduction of Silkworm Culture in America, the first English settlement liaviog been made at James- town, Virginia, in 1607, and soon after eggs, im- ported into England from China, and mulberry trees also were sent over to the ^colonists, with promises of large rewards by James for the advancement of the cul- ture. The King was a liberal monarch, and he saw a means of profit, both to the new country and the old, in maintaining an industry which had made its mark upon the Continental commerce. The experiment ended, like many others of old times and of the present, not meta- phorically, but actually, in smoke. The Indians in America had, for no one really knew how lojig, culti- vated tobacco -and the small colony of Europeans in Virginia found a source of revenue ready at hand, in a locality well adapted for its snccessfnl prosecution. This industry, for the advancement of which there was abun- dant incentive in the demands for the "weed" in the old country, swamped the silkworm enterprise and King James found the result of his Virginia experiment so un- satisfactory that the Avorm and the business soon came to grief. Louisiana had its experience in 1718, but without any lasting success. Grants were made to settlers in Georgia, for the purpose of cultivating mulberry trees, breeding the worms and producing and working tlie silk. This had the advantage of skilled artisans from Europe, a company of silk manufacturers having been sent over in 1732. For two years every attention was paid to silk, and the exportation to England of a few pounds of raw material was the result. Fifteen years later, during which time the best efforts were made at a German settlement on the Savannah river, a thousand pounds were shipped, the silk being so carefully reeled that the highest price was obtained for it on the London market. Encouraged by this, two years later, a filature was established at Savannah, to which all silk-culturists were permitted to send their cocoons. Thus tbe silk industiy grew, rapidly and honestly, till a reduction of price for American silk was decreed by the English Parliament, and the encouragement being withdrawn, the Georgia workers became apathetic iu 1770, and the Revolution was a death-blow to the trade at that time. South Carolina had its share in silk culture by Swiss settlers, who were moderately siiccessful. i ennsyl- vania had a lilature at Philadelphia in 1770. when the reduction in price was made in England, and there had also been established at Mansfield, Connecticut, a wtll appointed factory. This, as well as those in the South- ern States, lost its identity when the Kevolution came. Massachusetts shared the same fate, where, as in Con- necticut, the silk manufacture was making rapid prog- ress. Stockings, buttons, ribbon?, 'kerchiefs, and sew- ing silk were made by the New England workers, and so good were quality and workmanship that the French productions were regarded as second to the American 8 What the indnetry has become in the United States the big figures of the statistics easityshow. Nearlj^ all the Middle States have their silk factories ; the Pacific coast has its large establishments in California, and New England boldly competes with the finest i^'oductions from France and England. Improvements in ma- chinery -a thorough knowledge of the best methods and a steady growth of the trade itself demonstrate how much has followed that unwinding of the silk by the Chinese Empress, over 3,000 years ago. Italy, France, and Spain rank in the order of mention as silk producing countries, and Asia doubles the Italian figures in pounds and vahie. The Process of Dyeing- starts from an early age, from the simplest methods in positive colors. The Tyrians were noted for proficiency in the art, and a peculiar purple hue won for them dis- tinction which made others envious. This color was derived from a shel!-flsh found in the Mediterranean, on the coast of Phoenicia. The Romans used the dye exten- sively and by an imperial edict it was restricted to the nobility. Natural dyes, of fine color, obtained from vp -ious woods, were known in Peru and Mexico in their earliest history; and brilliant colors were also familiar to the Indians of North America. The use of vegetable dj^es has been most extensive ; and before the introdiiction of coal tar or aniline dyes, the methods employed for all fabrics were tedious and expensive. The discovery of aniline was made in 1826, during the process of distilling indigo ; and in 1856, while experimenting with aniline, the purple color known as 10 Again the Bible, in Exodus, 28, 39 : " And thou shalt embroider the coat of fine linen ; and thou shalt make the mitre of fine hnen, and thou shalt make the girdle of needle-work." The mind easily sways itself toward a desire for decora- tion and embellishment. Nature sets an example in gorgeousness and variety of color in the fields about us; and under the burning sun of the tropics the vegetation becomes bewildering in its brilliancy. Thus is heaxitj sjaread by an iinseen hand, with a concordance, each ■wath the other, in color and formation. There is no art in what is thus given to study and to imitate. But there is art in the perisetuation by means which accomplish the end, that the imitation shall be perfect and the resiilt recognizable, long after the origi- nal shall have disappeared. Since there has been any record— long ago when the world was centuries younger — when the undiscovered was j'^et to come, and when the nations of the earth were tribes, and these tribes wanderers, there Avas a desire for decoration. It was crude embellishment, at best, serving a purpose of distinction, if nothing more, and with litlle comprehension of fitness. Time cut his swath in the pathway to eternity un- tiringly and unerringly ; and as the people advanced in might and increased in numbers, embroidery became pastime and a source of profit. As a delicate art, as a tracery of the imagination, or as a means of close imitation, it fell into the kinds of women — perhaps then, as now, as a fitness of the means to the end, since, from the day of Adam, the Avoman's influence and the woman's skill has, in the finer sense, predominated. mauve was intiodiiced. Since that time the introduction and iise of aniline as a dj^e of commerce has been very large, bttt the aniline colors, notably on silk, have been unsatisfactory, being unable to withstand exposure to light, and being hub transient when subjected to the test of washing. All dyers have striven to secure a greater permanency of color, to find some means by which the effect of light and washing might be coun- teracted, and experiments which have cost large sums have been repeatedly made. THK BKAINEKD & AKMSTEONG COMPANY, at their immense mills in New London, Conn., have for several years emialoycd the most sldlful d_yers to accom- plish the result of brilliant and lasting color, and with- out the reliance on methods depending on the use of aniline. In tbis they have been successful. The colors of the silks are permanent, unfading in the light and standing the test of washing, without injury to thread or fabric . In a brief acknowledgment, the dyers of to-day must go back to improvements on the work of the East Indian countries. The Present must take Its lessons from the Past, and in doing so advancement in the art is but the splendid illustration to the methods of older times, made more valuable under the skill of modern students of color and the means of rendering it unfading. The Art of Embroidery- is entitled to more than ordinary respect, since its age gives it a patriarchal right to recognition and importance. ii While men were husbandmen, or warriors, or artisans wielding the heavy tools of labor, women foiind em- ployment with the needle. Among the uncivilized, bone and ivory were used ; and with the more refined nations, such as the Chinese, Egyptians, Aysyrians, Hindoos and Hebrews, needles were in use, some made of bronze being foiind in the Egyptian tombs. And these needles must have been made 4,000 years ago What the needle may accompli«h, with a practiced hand to guide it, was not then limited, is not now, and never will be. In earliest times the Egyptians were embroiderers. Scenes and incidents in the lives of the rulers were perpetuated by needlework, much of it done by slaves, under the direction of the most rigid task-masters, and after China had given the silk it bec.ime the material by which embroidery of the finest kind was made durable . So great was the love of embroidery as a decoration that the sails on the galleys were worked, and when Cleopatra reclined in state i^iaon her couch of skins, and the gem-studded oars of her barge touched the waters of the Nile, the silken sail which spread above her was elegantly wrought ia embroidery to attract a Cfesar, or to hold in its shadow an Antony, hidden from all except the dusky Queen who played with men and armies as her own. Egyptian women were noted for their skill with the needle, and with them, as with the people of Baby- lon and Tyre, precious metals, beaten into threads, were used with silk in making their mementoes and their decorative banners . Metals were also much lised by the Hindoos and the Chinese in their most effective repro- auctions npon silk, althougli the necessary limit in colors robbed their labor of its advantage as a faithful pict -.re. Persia was noted for its embroiderj^ in scarfs, banners, and carpets— much of the work done by women, the former being eagerly sought after by otheir nationalities. Nature furnished the patterns for the dieft fingers and busy needles of the Persian women, a great deal bf ing done in the harems, and afterward sold for the 1 enefitof the grandees. The Avork was peculiar in color and de- sign, most of it done in silk, with a very few instances where figures of persons or animals were depicted, and not many attempts at historical representation. Decoration, with the Moors, ran to a great extent— so much that every conceivable means was taken to excel. The trappings of the horses, the banners carried in their processions, the flags attached to the spears of the hard-riding warriors, the tapestries hung in the apartments of the rulers, the tents used in the field, were all embroidered expensively and with the utmos'-, care. The execution of a single piece not anfrequently occupied the embroiderer for months. In Rome, the embroidery upon jarizes given to victors in contests or in games was elaborate, and in Greece the same custom was observed . During the wars of the crusaders, and in the tournaments, in which lives Avere sacrificed to gain a prize, embroidered scarfs and banners were in vogue. Here, indeed, was woman's work— at a value. And woman's work Avas beautiful, Avhen she earnestly under- took the execution . The Middle Ages were noted for proficiency and varietj' in embroidery, its importance placing it in competition Avith painting. There were schools for teaching it ; and no feudal castle was 13 complete -without its seclaJed apartment, whicli -was a •workshop for the embroiderers, in -which silk was principally used. Tapestry, intended to perpetuate historical incidents ■was a trade, as miich as an accomplishment, and all the ingenuity and skill to be obtained were emploj'ed to make these tapestries of great value and importance . Years were sometimes necessary to complete a subject; and the famous specimens which are now treasured in the museums or remain in the old castles as reminders of the feudal times are marvels of skill and monuments of perseverance, although some are sadly deficient in the proper arrangement of color, even when the materials were capable of much more generous and effective use. Modern Embroidery- has both value and charm. During tbe past century there has been a steady advancement in methods and precision of work. As the better material has been given, so the character and quality of the work has in- creased. The Queen and waiting-women found amuse- ment with the embroidery frame ; their ready needles gave much of worth and beauty, and while that is preserved for its historical importance and its value enhances with its age, and while heir-looms, not from the Queen or her hand-maiden?, tire scattered as relics in all countries, woman's imagination and woman's work appreciates, by constant use, the means provided for her willing hands . No longer, as in the novelists' pet period, does the fair lady from within the deep recesses of her tower-room in some old pile of stone, work thoughts and wishes for her absent lover on the 'broidered scarf, awaiting his 14 return from tournament or skirmish. And yet the fair lady of to-day is never lonesome when her needle and her assortment of "silken threads " can be employed. Embroidery has in one sense descended in the scale to an article of commerce. Persia sends its Avork for sale ; China excels in delicacy and exactness if not in the proper porj)ortions of the objects represented— impossi- ble figures are made ; and yet the beauty of execution and the inimitable arrangement of incongruous designs are acceptable, in adding value to the production. As the earliest known workers in silk, this proficiency need not be wondered at; and the specimens of embroidery con- tinually reaching the American market from the Chinese workshops are hardly siisceptible of imitation, out of the Chinese empire. France sends its embroidery in many forms— delicate, beautiful, and of great value— so finely executed, so full of character and so radiant in repro- ductive color, that it holds i's place firmly and deservedly in estimation. The Scope of Needlework admits of no limitation. It is a bread-winner when necessary, an amusement always. No lady, with any inventive genius, or any application of her ability to do work as well as another need hesitate, with the modern appliances for doing the work, and the variety of material to be had at moderate cost, to undertake em- broidery and doiibt success. To do good work, to give it the permanency it deserves, good materials must be used. There is no longer the excuse that they are unobtainable, or that the cost precludes their iTse. 16 "The Highest Authorities Unanimously Endorse Brainerd &. Armstrong's Unfading Asiatic Dyes." KQPE SILK, a large, loosely twisted thread, is a "Wash Silk," and is produced in all the colorings of Brainerd &. Armstrong's Unfading Asiatic Dj'es. ROPE SILK has, since its introduction a few months ago, led all other Silks in the estimation of art needle- workers, who have instantlj' recognized its value in pro- ducing wonderfully novel, bold, and yet entirely artistic effects iipon all the heavier fabrics now in use. In versatility as to stitches and in rapidity of execu- tion (two very attractive qualities to the embroideress), ROPE SILK is without a parallel. As in the production of Brainerd & Armstrong's "Out- line Embroidery," "Filo," "Twisted Embroiderj'," and "Filling Silks," WORTHLESS IMITATIONS of ROPE SILK have already apjDeared in the market, ^^^ SEE THAT EVERY SKEIN BEARS THE NAME OF THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG CO., AND THE TRADE MARK, "ASIATIC DYES." No OTHER IS GENUINE. 15 Articles of apparel, of great variety of design and quality, appeal to the skill of the embroiderer ; the house- ho'd asks decoration, and it can be made attractive in ianiimerable ways, simply by the employment of the needle and the nse of silk, on every known woven fabric. The screen which partly shuts from view the blazing logs or the dying embers; the portiere which guards the entrance to the drawing-room or boudoir; the pilloAV which invites a moment's rest and from within its silken cover offers the sweet odor of the forest pine; the silk embroidered cloths for the table -in fac', everything within the "house beautiful " for use or ornament, invites the needle, affording amusement for the leisure hour, while the work will seldom fail in good compari- son with that which comes to us from far-off lands and workers whom we hear of, read of, but never see. Within the past few years our Decorative Art Associ- ations have furnished much to study. They are the out- growth of the plentitude of woman's work, her sceptre the needle; and encouragement in this is their support and her advantage . Eefinement of taste in design and color are apparent. Advancement in skill comes easily, and the result of all is enduring and ]irofitable. The artist brings to his canvas the imitation of nature's colors Avith his brush ; but the skilful needle-woman, aided by the manufacturer, who gives every primal color and its graduated shades in the silk which the needle places in the picture, can so closely follow the pigments mixed upon the palette, from color to tiut, that the painting and the embroidery deserve equal prominence. 17 SHAKESPEREAK SUCCESSFUL LOVER COMPARED TO A CONQUEEOE. Like one of two contending in a prize, That thinks lie has don^i well m people's eyes, Hearing applause and universal shout, Giddy in spirit, still gazing, in a doubt, Whether those peals of praise be his or not ; So, thrice fair lady, stand I. —Merchant of Venice. love's powek. Things base and vile, holding no quantity, Love can transpose to favor and dignity, Love looks not with the eyes, but with the mind. And therefore i? winged Cupid painted blind. — A Midsummer iSight's Dream. HOW TO WIN HEE. Win her with gifts, if she respect not words ; Dumb jewels often, in their silent kind. More than quick words, do move a woman's mind. — Tioo Genilemen of Verona . INNOCENCE. Innocence shall make False accusation blush, and tyranny Tremble at patience. — Winter's Tale. GEIEE. Each substance of a grief hath twenty shadows, Which show, like grief itself, but are not so ; For sorrow's eye, glazed with blinding tears, Divides one t^ ing entire to many objects ; Like perspectives, which rightly gazed upon, Show nothing but confusion, ey'd awry. Distinguish form . — King Eichard II. 18 EMERGENCY. He that stands uiDon a slippery place, Makes nice of no vile hold to stay him up. — King John . man's inconstancy. heaven ! were man But constant, he were perfect ! that one error Fills him with faults . — Winter's Tale. A DISDAINFUL WOMAN. Disdain and scorn ride sparkling in her eyes, Misprising what they look on ; and her wit Values itself so highly, that to her All matter else seems weak ; she cannot love, Nor take no shape nor project of affection, She is feo self -endeared. — Much Ado About Nothing. Hope to joy is little less in joy Than hope enjoyed. — Richaid II, Do not satisfy your resolution with hopes that are fallible. —Pleasure for Ji At seventeen years many their fortunes seek, But at fourscore it is too late a week. — As You Like It . Beauty doth varnish age, as if new-born. And gives the crutch the cradle's infancy. —Love's Labor's Lost. There is no slander in an allowed fool, though he do nothing but rail. —Twelfth Night. A little fire is quickly trodden out. —Henry VI. Light boats sail swift, though greater hulks draw deep. — Troilus and Cn 19 Mere honor is my life, both gi-ow in one ; Take honor from rue, and my life is clone. — Eiclmrd 11. Justice always whirls in equ^l measure — Love's Labor's Lost. Ill blows the wind that profits nobodj" . —Henry VI. Come what may, Time and the hour runs through the roughest dav. —31icbdh. Pleasure and action make the hours seem short. — 01 hello. The honor of a maid is her name ; and no legacy is so rich as honefity. —All's Well Thai End's Well. The course of true love never did run smooth. — Midsummer Kighl's Dnum. Society is no comfort To one not sociable. — Cymhelhii: . Love sought is good, but given unsought is better. --TaelflhKiijlil. tiove thyself last : cherish those hearts that hate thee. —Henry Vlll. Love is a smoke raised with the fume of sighs — Romeo and Juliet. Love all, trust a few, Do wrong to none : be able for thine enemj'. —All's Well that Ends Well. Love is blind, and lovers cannot see The pretty follies that themselves commit. — Merchant of Venice . More are men's ends marked than their lives before. —Richard II. Methinks the truth should live from age to age, As 't were retailed to all posterity. —Richard 111. He lives in fame that died in virtue's cause. — Tikis Andromcus. All that lives must die, Passing through nature to eternity. — Hamlet . Live a little ; comfort a little ; cheer thyself a little. — As You Like It . Mend your speech a little, Lest it may mar your future . — King Lear. She puts her tongue a little in her heart. And chides with thinking. —Othello. Gives not the hawthorn bush a sweeter shade, To sheiDherds, lookiug on their silly sheep. Than doth a rich embroider 'd canopy. To kings, that fear their subjects' treachery. - Ill King ±ienry VI. Gems for the Months. The superstition which has attached to precious stones and the. wearin>< of them has lasted for so long a time, that tlie present generation's people may feel inclined to give credence to their imputed influence, and the list, &'i accepted by traditionary authorities, is : January -Garnet. July- Enby. February — Amethyst . August — Sardonyx . March— Bloodstone. September— Sapphire . April— Diamond. October— Opal . May— Emerald . November— Topaz . June — Agate. December- -Turquoise. Don't Do It. Don't brood o'er care — the trouble that you make Is always worse to bear, and hard to shake : Smile at the world ; the sorrow that is sent. 'J'ake it, with patience, as your punishment. He wins who laughs. This cut represents our neiv and im- proved method' of putting lop Embroidery Silk. This Silh is guaranteed' to possess the follozvin^ ^MERITS* . 1st. — Even and. Artistic Siiading. 2d. — Smooth, Lustrous Thread, 3d.— Improved Methods of putting up. Each (iitill contains about 3 yards or a trifl'-i more than the ordinary shein. The /Silk is better than skeins. In short, it is THE BEST SILK IN THE BEST FORM. WORTH REMEMBERING. Conversation is the music of the mind . No men despise physic so much as physicians . He that thinks himself the hajjpiest man really is so. Many who find the day too long, think life too short. Great men, like comets, are eccentric in their courses. Eats and conquerors must expect no mercy in mis- fortune . A fool may ask more questions than a wise man can answer. He that thinks himself the wisest is generally the greatest fool . Relations take the greatest liberties and give the least assistance . When we fail, our pride supports us, when we succeed, it betrays us. To know a man, observe how he iinns his object, rather than how he loses it. Those that are loudest in their threats, are the weakest in the execution of them . A necessitous man, who gives costly dinners, pays large sums to be laughed at. Deliberate with caution; act with decision ; yield with graciousness ; oppose with firmness. Be not too niggardly in praise, for a man will do more to support a character than to raise one . To sentence a man of true genius to the drudgery of a school, is to put a race horse in a mill. Logic is a large drawer, containing some useful instru- ments, and many more that are superfluous. It is always safe to learn, even from our enemies— sel- dom safe to venture to instruct, even our friends . 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