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PREFACE, 
 
 On adding one more to the numerous 
 topographical works which are already 
 before the public, some apology might 
 be deemed necessary, were not the fol- 
 lowing pages descriptive of a part of 
 the united kingdom, which, though 
 confessedly interesting, has hitherto re- 
 mained very imperfectly known. The 
 Lake of Killarney, however, has not 
 wholly escaped notice : in every ge- 
 neral account of Ireland its extraordi- 
 nary beauty has been dwelt on ; it has 
 been the theme of the poet; and has 
 afforded subjects for a great variety of 
 
IV PREFACE. 
 
 fully employed, have, at least, glided 
 agreeably away, while he was enga- 
 ged in retracing those scenes which 
 had formerly given him so much de- 
 light. That the work might have been 
 rendered much more attractive by an 
 abler pen, he feels very sensibly; but, 
 whatever its imperfections may be, he 
 ventures to lay claim, at least, to the 
 merit of fidelity. 
 
CONTENTS, 
 
 SECTION I. 
 
 General description of the three Lakes of Killarney — Mucruss— 
 Turk cottage and cascade.>^Mines and minerals of the peninsula 
 between the lakes — Geological observations. — Abbey of Irrelagh 
 ^ts antiquities — still a favourite place of burial. — Funerals of the 
 Irish — ^strong expressions of grief — vehemence of their passions. 
 — Description of the islands near Mucruss — ruins of Castle lough 
 — Cahirnane — Kenmare house and gardens. — Observations on 
 the bogs of Ireland, and the large trees found in them. — General 
 description of the northern shore of the great lower lake. — Extra- 
 ordinary eifects of sun-set. — The Earl of Kenmare's deer-park. — 
 Hill of Aghadoe — its antiquities. — Ruined cathedral and abbey 
 — round towers — great antiquity of these buildings — review of 
 the various theories respecting their probable uses. — Stone circle. 
 — ^Ancient fortifications near the river Flesk. — Dunloh castle — 
 defile called Dunloh Gap — road through it to the upper lake.— - 
 Macarthy-more's country. 
 
 SECTION II.— Page SS, 
 Remarks on the navigation of the lake. — Ross castle — some account 
 of its siege and capture by the parliamentary army — Ross island 
 — destruction of its woods — impolicy of felling timber premature- 
 ly. — Wandering musician — Mines of Ross — re-opened lately- 
 ancient tools found there. — Project of draining the lake. — Marble 
 quarries. — 0*Donoghoe's prison — legendary account of the an- 
 cient prince of that name. — Innisfallen island — ^fruitful yew — 
 monastic ruins.— Observations on the state of Ireland during the 
 dark ages. — Early Irish manuscripts. — Annals of Innisfallen and 
 others— specimens thereof. — Remarks on the ancient history of 
 Ireland.— Description of the ruins of Innisfallen, — Decline of 
 
^'Tf^i^ 
 
 O.OL -^M 
 
 SECTION L 
 
 The Lake of Killarney is situated nearly in the centre 
 of the maritime county of Kerry, on the confines of 
 a chain of lofty mountains. The space included be- 
 tween this chain and the ocean, on the west, contain- 
 ing upwards of thirty square miles, is entirely occu- 
 pied by other mountains of still greater magnitude. 
 
amongst which are those called Magillicuddy's reeks, 
 computed to be the most elevated in Ireland. In 
 general, the disposition of these mountains is very 
 irregular ; but, as they approach the sea, they form 
 short ridges, terminating on the coast in bold and 
 rugged headlands. 
 
 This mountainous region abounds with lakes. 
 They are mostly found in the depths of the valleys ; 
 but some are situated on the sides of the mountains, 
 at a great elevation, in cavities resembling the cra- 
 ters of volcanos. The one known by the name of 
 the Devil's Punch-bowl, near the summit of Manger- 
 ton, in the vicinity of Killarney, is at least fifteen 
 hundred feet above the level of the sea ; and after 
 .. heafy rains dischai;ges a large stream, which rolls 
 'ifewn the jai)unp^ dis- 
 
 tinguishable by their white foam at the distance of 
 many miles. 
 
 Of these numerous lakes, the largest, as well as the 
 lowest, is that of Killarney. It may be considered, 
 indeed, an immense reservoir for the waters of the 
 surrounding country, supplied by the overflowings of 
 other lakes, by rills from the adjoining mountains, 
 and by rivers which fall into it after having been 
 augmented during their long course by countless tri- 
 butary streams. The only outlet to this extensive 
 basin is the clear and rapid river Laune, which con- 
 
veys the surplus water into the Atlantic ocean through 
 the bay of Dingle. 
 
 Nor is Killarney less pre-eminent above all the 
 other lakes of Kerry, on account of beauty than ex- 
 tent : for whilst the shores of the latter bear no tra- 
 ces of cultivation, and are rarely distinguished by 
 any striking features from the dreary wastes which 
 surround them, its enchanting banks, singled out as 
 it were by Nature for the display of some of her 
 choicest productions, present^ the charming variety 
 of a rich and adorned landscape, contrasted with the 
 picturesque wildness of mountain and forest scenery. 
 
 The lake consists of three distinct bodies of water. 
 Of these, the first, which is called the upper lake, 
 lies embosomed amidst the mountains : the others, 
 situated at the exterior base of the chain, are bound- 
 ed at one side alone by mountains ; and in the oppo- 
 site direction they open to a cultivated country, 
 whose surface is diversified by innumerable hills. 
 The two last divisions are nearly upon the same le- 
 vel, and lie contiguous to each other,, being sepa- 
 rated merely by a narrow peninsula, and some small 
 islands, between which there are channels passable 
 for boats ; but the upper lake stands three miles dis- 
 tant, at the head of a navigable river which flows 
 through a romantic valley or defile. Near the ter- 
 mination of its course, this river divides into two 
 
4 
 
 branches, one of which flows peaceably into the bay 
 of Glena, on the great or lower lake ; the other, for- 
 cing its mazy way through a rocky channel, issues 
 with considerable impetuosity into the middle lake, 
 under the woods of Dinis island. 
 
 The first mountain in the chain we have described, 
 beginning at the east, which meets the waters of Kil- 
 larney, is that of Turk. It forms the boundary of 
 one entire side of the middle division of the lake ; 
 from which circumstance the latter receives the name 
 of Turk lake. Beyond this mountain there is a de- 
 file in the chain, through which flows the river from 
 the upper lake. 
 
 The next mountain in succession is called Glena. 
 It projects, as may be observed on the map, beyond 
 the line of Turk, so as to present two sides to the 
 water : one of them overhangs the bay of Glena ; 
 the other opens to the broadest part of the lower 
 lake. Both these mountains rise abruptly from the 
 water, and are marked by numerous bold breaks and 
 projecting rocks. They remain nearly in a state of 
 nature ; no roads, no proprietary boundaries, are ob- 
 servable on their surface, and they exhibit few traces 
 of cultivation. 
 
 Tomies mountain, the next and last in succession 
 which is washed by the lake, rises more gradually 
 than the others, and at its base presents to view a 
 
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 ,^jjpji. 
 
 im.,-cTi:,' Parle 
 
 Ca.cUlo...k Be 
 
 
 
 
 J^/;.i:. 
 
considerable tract of fertile sloping ground, which is 
 under cultivation. ' 
 
 Not long since all these mountains were clothed 
 down to the water's edge with oaks of large growth ; 
 most of these venerable trees, however, have fallen 
 under the axe, which has been busily plied year af- 
 ter year. On that side of Glena next to the bay, a 
 considerable extent of wood still indeed adorns the 
 landscape ; but even this last surviving remnant of 
 the vast mountain forests of Kerry has been doomed 
 to perish ; the woodmen have already commenced 
 their ravages ; and in a short period the landscape 
 will be deprived of one of its richest ornaments. The 
 destruction of these forests is principally attributable 
 to the manufacture of iron, — a business once carried 
 on with great spirit in various parts of the county, 
 and for which an abundant supply of charcoal was 
 required. As fuel became scarce, the iron-works 
 declined, and at last they were totally abandoned. 
 The woods are now cut for other purposes, as timber 
 in this country is become extremely valuable, in con- 
 sequence of the prodigal use that was formerly made 
 of it. 
 
 The hills which bound the lake, on the side oppo- 
 site to the mountains, in general, slope gradually 
 down to the water ; but in one part, between the ri- 
 ver Denagh and Castle-lough bay, for a distance of 
 about two miles, a tract of low and level ground inteiv 
 
Foj^soMf =? ZrpperZa 
 
 Isjds ef CaJurri::^.^ 
 
 ^,\ 
 
 'X^ 
 
 — ^»7^^a 
 
 ,, -^^^^^ --=1- 
 
venes between them and the lake. This level ground, 
 in itself the least interesting part of the shores of 
 Killarn^y, becomes of importance to the general eft 
 feet of the scene, from the striking contrast it offers 
 to the opposite mountains, and the apparent increase 
 it gives to their height. 
 
 The town of Killarney, from which the lake takes 
 its name, is situated on this flat at the foot of the 
 hills. 
 
 In attempting to communicate a more intimate 
 knowledge of the varied scenes of Killarney, I shall 
 begin with the demesne of Mucruss, which stretches 
 from the foot of Turk mountain along the eastern 
 borders of the middle and lower lakes : and here I 
 shall beg leave to direct the attention to the three 
 first plates, which severally contain views taken from 
 an eminence called the Green Hills. Engravings 
 destitute of the assistance of colours, upon whose 
 harmonious combination so much of the pleasure 
 which we derive from the contemplation of the works 
 of nature depends, are at best but ill qualified for the 
 purposes of landscape ; and the small scale to which 
 these have necessarily been limited, sensibly dimi- 
 nishes the interest of the subject ; but it is presumed 
 that they will still be instrumental in elucidating the 
 description. Indeed, even the haopiest powers of 
 the pencil itself would be baffled in the attempt to 
 
pourtray the innumerable beauties in this enchant- 
 ing scene. 
 
 Shade unperceived so softening into shade, 
 And all so forming an harmonious whole, 
 That, as they still succeed, they ravish still. 
 
 The distance of the spot where these views are 
 taken, from the Water, is about half an English mile j 
 the intermediate space is occupied by a park richly 
 adorned with woods, over which the spectator is sup- 
 posed to look down upon the lake. 
 
 In the first plate, an outline is given of the pros- 
 pect from south-south-west to north-north-west ; and 
 the mountains are distinguished by name. The other 
 plates, as may be readily observed, are only finished 
 views of parts of the same scenes.* 
 
 Turk mountain, from this station, appears nearly 
 insulated, owing to the defiles at each of its extre- 
 mities. One of them affords a passage to the river 
 from the upper lake, and through the other runs a 
 wild road leading from Killarney to Nedheen, a town 
 situated at the head of a large estuary of the south- 
 western coast, called Kenmare river. The water at 
 
 * It was the original design of the author to have given one or 
 more panorama views, from different stations ; but the artist who 
 was employed upon the first of them having failed of producing the 
 effect that was intended, and which perhaps was not attainable on 
 so small a scale, it was judged expedient to break the plate, and 
 not to attempt others on the same plan. v 
 
8 
 
 the foot of this mountain Is a part of Turk lake. The 
 bold promontory observable on the near shore of the 
 lake, is a remarkable mass of marble, whose pale blue 
 colour sometimes blends insensibly into that of the 
 water, sometimes forms a strong contrast to it, ac- 
 cording as it is influenced by the changes of the at- 
 mosphere : it remains dark when the lake assumes a 
 bright silvery hue ; on the contrary, when a lower- 
 ing sky throws a gloom over the waves, it is as con- 
 spicuous for its brightness. 
 
 The rugged heights to the right of Turk form one 
 side of the defile through which the river flows from 
 the upper lake. 
 
 The water beneath Glena mountain is apart of the 
 
 bay of the same name, on the lower lake, between 
 
 which and Mucruss house are seen the woods of the 
 
 peninsula which separates the middle and lower lake. 
 
 Tomies mountain, which has a double peak, is the 
 
 next in succession to that of Glena ; the others qi 
 
 the same chain lie concealed from this point of view. 
 
 The low shore to the right of Tomies mountain is 
 
 the most remote part of the lower lake, distant from 
 
 the spectator about six miles. The mountains above 
 
 it overhang the northern ^hore of the bay of Dingle, 
 
 which opens to the Atlantic pcean, at the further 
 
 distance of thirty miles. 
 
 The different points of land in the middle distance, 
 which intercept the view of the remote boundary of 
 
the lake, are islands ; amongst which that of Ross 
 appears conspicuous, from its castle ; and the hills ap- 
 pearing above these islands skirt the northern shore 
 of the lake. 
 
 The demesne of Mucruss is not less remarkable 
 for its internal beauty, than for the variety of noble 
 prospects which it commands of the lake and adja- 
 cent mountains. Diversified in the most pleasing 
 manner with hill and dale, parts of it are spread into 
 lawns clothed with the richest verdure, and adorned 
 with graceful trees ; others are broken with marble 
 rocks, around which native vines extend their wan- 
 ton tendrils -, others are over-run with a wild en- 
 tangled forest. On one side a ruin, venerable from 
 its antiquity, rears its mossy towers amidst embow- 
 ering groves ; and in an opposite direction, down the 
 wooded mountain, a cataract 
 
 In headlong torrents hurls 
 
 His sounding waters ; while on every cliff 
 
 Hangs the light foam, and sparkles through the gloom, 
 
 The entrance is in a decayed village, once the 
 flourishing seat of an iron-manufactory, and it does 
 not prepossess the imagination in favour of the place 
 to which it leads ; but the charms of the scene are 
 quickly revealed after passing it. At first the road 
 runs over hills of easy ascent, in the interior of the 
 demesne j afterwards, winding towards the lake, it 
 
10 
 
 continues along the shore, passing through thicketis 
 which afford variety by occasionally intercepting the 
 view of the water. The house stands near a grove* 
 not many yards from the lake : it is not advantage- 
 ously situated with regard to prospect; but in a 
 more elevated position it would perhaps have been 
 deprived of shelter, so necessary to domestic com- 
 fort, and been exposed to the dreadful whirlwinds 
 which descend from the mountains during the win- 
 ter season. The fabric is old, and seems to call for 
 repair ; but the attention of the proprietor is, at pre- 
 sent, chiefly directed towards the improvement of 
 the borders of the middle lake, in the vicinity of a 
 small house or cottage lately built at the foot of the 
 mountain. Extensive plantations of forest trees have 
 been made at this place, stretching from the water 
 nearly half way up the mountain ; and the improve- 
 ments are annually continued by the proprietor with 
 skill and enterprise. Of the grand effect they will 
 produce at a future day, if they are allowed by the 
 succeeding possessors to arrive at maturity, some no- 
 tion may be formed from the prospect of the ancient 
 hanging woods on Glena mountain, which appear 
 above the islands at the extremity of the lake. 
 
 It is painful to reflect how much the beauty of the 
 lake has been impaired by the destruction of the fo- 
 rests ; and still more painful to learn that the few re- 
 maining venerable trees have been devoted to the 
 
11 
 
 axe. By their removal, the scenery is likely to sus- 
 tain an injury irreparable during the present genera- 
 tion ; but the vigorous efforts of Colonel Herbert to 
 form new plantations, afford a ray of hope, that, at a 
 future day, many of its former charms may be resto- 
 red. Every person who visits Killarney must feel in- 
 debted to that spirit of improvement which displays 
 itself amidst so extended a system of devastation. 
 
 Though the landscape has, on the whole, been im- 
 proved by the alterations which have been effected 
 in the vicinity of Turk cottage, yet objections may 
 perhaps be started against some of them for not ac- 
 cording with the general character of the scenery. 
 It may admit of doubt whether the smooth shorn 
 surface of the meadows between the cottage and the 
 lake does not present too striking a contrast to the 
 ruggedness of the mountain, and aflbrd too glaring 
 an instance of the compulsory powers of art. The 
 ground abounded with rocks, which were removed 
 from it with much difficulty ; and although where 
 man resides, nature must be conquered by his perse- 
 verance and ingenuity, yet " it is only the ostenta- 
 tion of the triumph," as a professor of landscape 
 gardening observes, " and not the victory, that ought 
 to offend the eye of taste." The present trimness of 
 the ground is said to be imputable to the over-zealous 
 exertions of the agents who were employed to clear 
 the spot during the absence of the proprietory 
 
12 
 
 and, to remedy this mistake, it has been proposed to 
 replace some of the rocks in their ancient beds. But 
 the labour and expense of such a task, were it indeed 
 feasible, would be a paramount objection ; and, to 
 re-clothe the rocks with moss, and restore the pictu^ 
 resque attire of nature, would probably be a vain at- 
 tempt. It was well observed formerly, by the inge- 
 nious Bishop Berkely, " that the king of France 
 might lay out another Versailles, but that with all 
 his revenue he could not lay out another Mucruss.'* 
 The cottage is a simple and rather pleasing build- 
 ing, with an arched porch in front, after the ancient 
 English style. The little lawn before it is watered 
 by the clear and rapid stream which flows from Turk 
 cascade; and across it has been thrown a Gothic 
 bridge, whose dimensions, if intended merely to faci- 
 litate the approach to the cottage, and beyond it the 
 mountain is quite inaccessible to horsemen, appear 
 more than commensurate to the object; but it is 
 said that a new road has been planned to run from 
 the demesne of Mucruss to the upper lake, across 
 this bridge. After traversing the delightful glades 
 of the demesne, this road would stretch for two miles 
 along the border of the lake, at the base of Turk 
 mountain ; then gradually winding to the left, it 
 would follow the meandering course of the river 
 which flows through the defile, and finally reach the 
 retired confines of the upper lake. Scarcely would 
 
13 
 
 it be possible to find in any country a road more di- 
 versified and beautiful. The most picturesque scenes 
 of Killarney would then be disclosed to view, and 
 the shores of the upper lake rendered easy of access, 
 to which the passage is, at present, impeded by a 
 thousand difficulties and delays. How many anxious 
 and curious visitors would then enjoy the varied 
 scenery of the upper lake, who now retire from Kil- 
 larney, lamenting its troubled waters and its stormy 
 skies ! 
 
 The view from Turk cottage is grand and solemn. 
 On the left, rising to a great height, appears the 
 mountain ; its summit frequently capped with clouds, 
 and its base washed by the lake for an extent of 
 nearly two miles. Rocks and thick woods along the 
 peninsula bound the lake on the opposite side ; and 
 Glena, rising in the distance, displays the full glories 
 of its forests, and terminates the prospect. 
 
 Turk cascade is situated at a short distance from 
 the cottage, at the bottom of a deep chasm in the 
 side of the mountain. It is supplied by a river from 
 the valley between Turk and Mangerton mountains, 
 which is augmented occasionally by the stream from 
 the Devil's Punch-bowl. After heavy rains, indeed, 
 a vast body of water descends down the precipice, 
 entirely covering the face of the rock with a sheet of 
 white foam : the chief beauty of the fall consists in 
 its winding course. The sides of the chasm are 
 
14 
 
 thickly planted with larch trees, which might be sup- 
 posed, from the rapidity of their growth, to have 
 found a soil as congenial to their nature as that of 
 the Alps and Apennines. As yet, these trees have 
 not acquired the picturesque attire of age ; but, ar- 
 rived at maturity, and bowed down by the storm, 
 their appearance must give enchantment to the scene. 
 The eye of fancy will perhaps imagine that it already 
 beholds their withered arms, grey with lichens, ex- 
 tended athwart the dark rocks, whilst the parent 
 stem, prostrated in the flood, lies contending with 
 the impetuosity of the current. Below the cascade 
 the water is lost in a deep ravine, but it soon emer- 
 ges, and, after passing under the bridge, is seen, at 
 a distance, gliding smoothly into the lake. 
 
 Between Turk cottage and the mansion-house of 
 Mucruss, the grounds possess fewer attractions than 
 in any other part ; which is rather attributable to 
 the half-cultivated, half-neglected state in which they 
 are suffered to remain, than to any deficiency in na- 
 tural beauty. The surface is pleasingly varied and 
 well wooded; but too many of the trees stand in 
 even rows and formal clumps; and several stone 
 fences, by their artificial formality, offend the eye 
 which takes delight in the wild irregularity of na- 
 ture. Roughness and negligence were not wanting 
 here to increase the interest which the more impro- 
 ved parts of the demesne inspire, as the peninsula 
 
15 
 
 between the two lakes, still in a state of native wild- 
 ness, affords them the best relief imaginable. So 
 sudden a transition, indeed, from the embellished 
 scenes of art to the wildness of the forest, is rarely 
 paralleled. 
 
 The peninsula commences at the house, and ex- 
 tends as far as Brickeen bridge, a distance of two 
 miles. It consists of continuous masses of rocks 
 slightly covered with earth, which, notwithstanding 
 the seeming poverty of the soil, are clothed with 
 trees of considerable growth. At the commence- 
 ment of the peninsula, the branches of the trees are 
 so closely interwoven, and the rocks so rugged, that 
 they form a barrier impervious to persons on horse- 
 back, excepting in very few places ; but there is a 
 commodious road through these woods beginning at 
 the mansion-house, which extends the whole length 
 of the peninsula, and thence across Brickeen bridge 
 to the island of the same name : formerly it reached 
 as far as the island of Dinis, but the way at present 
 is not passable for carriages beyond the bridge ; and 
 between Dinis and Brickeen islands there is no long- 
 er any communication. 
 
 In passing along this road, the eye is gratified with 
 the most delightful views of the lake and distant 
 hills, opening at intervals between the breaks in the 
 woods ; they would, however, be attended with great- 
 er interest, if the vistas were more numerous on each 
 
 12 
 
16 
 
 side : for in several places the trees along the road- 
 side grow so very closely together as to form a skreen 
 which does not admit even a glimpse of the water 
 for half a mile together. Had all the views between 
 the house and the extremity of the peninsula been 
 nearly the same, it would be judicious, perhaps, to 
 leave the road secluded, as it is at present ; for the 
 same view would excite fresh interest, if the eye re- 
 turned to it after having been confined for a time to 
 the gloom of a thick wood ; but the scenery here is 
 so much diversified, that, were the whole coast ex- 
 posed, not a single step would seem tedious. The 
 wooded islands, which appear at a short distance 
 from the shore, are a constant source of new delight. 
 One moment they appear to confine the lake within 
 very narrow limits ; the next, a long expanse of wa- 
 ter, with reaches of the distant shore, is discovered 
 between the channels which separate them. The 
 coast of the peninsula itself is also extremely pictu- 
 resque. Numerous little inlets indent it, some of 
 which are bounded by massive rocks rising to the 
 height of fifty feet above the lake ; others are shaded 
 by the thick pendent foliage of tall trees, gracefully 
 disposed along the water side. The pedestrian who 
 will take the pains of forcing his way along the shore, 
 which, owing to the close intertexture of the bran- 
 ches, and the abundance of hollies, brambles, and 
 thick underwood, is very difficult of access, will find 
 
17 
 
 himself amply repaid by the variety of the scenery. 
 The same prospects, it is true, may be more readily 
 commanded, by proceeding in a boat along the shore, 
 and occasionally landing ; but the pleasure they af- 
 ford under the different circumstances of a delibe- 
 rate approach from the water, or of an adventurous 
 ramble through the woods, varies considerably. In 
 the one case the person advances, aware in some 
 measure of what he is to behold ; in the other, the 
 views burst upon him unforeseen, producing addi- 
 tional pleasures by their unexpected appearance. 
 In this, as in other instances where the object is of 
 higher import, the pleasure arising from the attain- 
 ment of our desires is often lessened by anticipation 
 during the moments of pursuit. 
 
 Towards the centre, the peninsula assumes a new 
 character. Here it is varied by extensive lawns, 
 some of which are entirely surrounded by woods, 
 whilst others open to the lake. There is a large 
 pool in the middle of one of these lawns, fringed 
 with graceful trees, whose retired and tranquil as- 
 pect forcibly rivets the attention, in despite of the 
 much more magnificent scenery in its vicinity. The 
 banks on one side are considerably elevated ; and on 
 their summit stands a rude unfinished building,* 
 
 * When it is considered how much has been done to impair the 
 beauty of some of the enchanting lakes in the north of England, 
 
 B 
 
IB 
 
 which appears to have been designed for a rustic 
 temple or pleasure-house ; and indeed a more advan- 
 tageous scite for such a building could not have been 
 fixed upon, as the spot not only commands an ex- 
 tensive prospect of the lake and mountains, but of 
 the rich verdant slopes and thick woods of Mucruss — 
 
 Both where the morning sun first warmly smote 
 "the open field, and where the unpierced shade 
 Imbrov^ried the noontide bowers. 
 
 Beyond this delightful spot, towards the point of 
 Camillan, the woods assume a still wilder aspect, and 
 the deepening gloom conveys the idea of the most 
 savage solitude, when all at once, at the bottom of a 
 mass of rocks which a sudden break in the woods 
 discloses, a small cottage appears, whose blue curling 
 smoke rising through the trees gives animation to a 
 scene which but a moment before seemed remote 
 from the haunts of men. It is impossible to ap- 
 proach it without feeling half disposed to envy its 
 inmates the possession of so retired and romantic a 
 dwelling ; though the poor peasants who reside in 
 it, " children of penury and heirs to toil,'* are per- 
 haps only sensible of the inconvenience of a situation 
 
 by persons of false taste erecting buildings which they call orna- 
 mental, it may be deemed a fortunate circumstance that Killarney 
 is still suffered to appear in native simplicity. 
 
19 
 
 removed from the seat of their daily labour, and in- 
 capable, from the barrenness of its rocks, of produ- 
 cing the roots upon which they are accustomed to 
 feed. 
 
 This house was erected for the superintendant of 
 a neighbouring copper-mine on the borders of Turk 
 lake, but which has not been worked for some years 
 past. When abandoned, the vein of ore had not 
 failed, nor had any inconvenience, it is said, been 
 experienced from the influx of water, although the 
 situation of the mine, close upon the margin of the 
 lake, appears very perilous. The discontinuance of 
 the works was rather to be attributed to the misma- 
 nagement, or want of unanimity, amongst the parties 
 concerned in it. At present^ however, the mine is 
 full of water, and a considerable sum of money was 
 ineffectually expended of late i^ attempts to draw it 
 off. It is asserted) though I can scarcely conceive 
 upon good information, that the water has not flow- 
 ed in from the lake through any rent or chasm in the 
 rocks, as happened at Ross island, on the opposite 
 side of the lower lake, where a very valuable work 
 was destroyed by inundation, in consequence of cut- 
 ting too close to the water. 
 
 The principal produce of this mine on the penin- 
 sula was copper pyrites 5 but amongst the rubbish, 
 which lies around the mouth of the old shafts, nume- 
 rous specimens are observable of grey copper ore. 
 
20 
 
 a;nd malachite ; of brown iron stone, grey cobalt 
 ore, red cobalt ore, both in crystallized germina- 
 tions and incrustations ; besides various other mine- 
 ral substances. Some of the specimens of cobalt 
 taken from this place are extremely rich ; and hopes 
 were once entertained that this valuable mineral 
 might be discovered in sufficient quantities to be- 
 come an important object of commerce. A consi- 
 derable quantity of it was actually gathered, and sent 
 over to an ingenious potter in England for ;trial ; but 
 it was found to be too intimately mixed with copper 
 and iron to be of much value in his manufacture.* 
 
 The peninsula, for about two-thirds of its length, 
 is formed of limestone, resting upon grauwacke. 
 The limestone is of a pale blue colour, and of a 
 dense compact nature ; the same species of stone 
 extends along the shores of Mucruss and Cahirnane, 
 towards the river Deanagh. The islands at the 
 mouth of Elesk river are entirely .composed of it, 
 and it abounds upon Ross, Innisfallen, and the 
 Brown islands. Marble of various colours is found 
 mixed with the common limestone in Mucruss de- 
 
 * Cobalt is used for the purpose of staining glass, enamels, eartfi- 
 en-ware, and porcelain, to which it communicates a beautiful blue 
 colour. The well-known substance caHed smalt blue is nothing 
 more than glass coloured with cobalt, and finely levigated. The 
 crude ore, if of a good quality, is worth, I am informed, two guineas 
 per pound. It is principally procured from Saxony. 
 
21 
 
 mesne and on Ross island. Towards the extremity 
 of the peninsula grauwacke appears, and of this ma- 
 terial are formed the islands in Glena bay, and on 
 that side of the lake. No limestone is again ob- 
 servable for many miles beyond Killarney. 
 
 As the deposit of limestone is confined to the hol- 
 low or basin which contains the great lower lake, it 
 w^ould appear to belong to what are termed the Fla3tz 
 rocks by Werner, resting immediately on his transi- 
 tion series, in the same manner as the limestone does 
 under Ingleborough, in Yorkshire, and near Kendal, 
 in Westmoreland. 
 
 The neighbouring mountains consist principally 
 of grauwacke and grauwacke slate, of which last a 
 quarry is wrought upon Turk mountain, on the side 
 next to Turk lake. Immense veins of quartz, as is 
 usual with rocks of this description, intersect the 
 mountains. 
 
 On the shores of Ross and Innisfallen islands, and 
 nearly on a level with the water at its ordinary height, 
 -the limestone rocks are partially covered with a sili- 
 ceous incrustation, apparently the remains of a stra- 
 tum of chert. It is of a very dark greenish colour, 
 full of fissures, and may very readily be detached and 
 divided into small fragments. 
 
 Petrified shells, which present an interesting phae- 
 
 nomenon, are found adhering in a similar manner to 
 
 thp grauwacke rocks at the extremity of the penin- 
 
 3 
 
22 
 
 sula on the side next to Turk lake. Their forms are 
 very distinct, and whilst their cavities are entirely 
 filled with granular limestone, which cements them 
 to the rocks, their exterior surface is coated with 
 silex. Probably these shells formed part of a calca- 
 reous stratum long since washed away ; or rather, 
 the space which the mere shell itself once occupied 
 in the limestone having been accidentally filled with 
 silex, bearing the exact appearance of the original 
 form, this substance has preserved the calcareous 
 matter within from the action of the air and water, 
 and thus kept it connected with the rock. It is 
 somewhat remarkable, that no traces of shells are 
 discoverable, that I could perceive, among the cal- 
 careous rocks in the vicinity ; but it is nevertheless 
 most probable, from the siliceous coating and calca- 
 reous interior pf those already described, that they 
 did not belong to beds of grauwacke. The shells 
 are principally of the kinds called Telenites and Tur- 
 binites. 
 
 On returning from a ramble through the wilds of 
 the peninsula, the ornamental scenes around Mucruss 
 house appear with additional charms. Indeed, du- 
 ring the height of summer, when the sultry heats are 
 tempered by the breezes from the lake, when the air 
 is filled with the fragrance of wild-flowers and of the 
 new-mown hay, and when the eye can wander at lei- 
 sui'e oyer the varieties of the landscape, one would 
 
23 
 
 bo led to imagine that this was the region of delight, 
 where Nature had unlocked her choicest treasures, 
 But the pleasure of the dream is often dispelled by 
 the vicissitudes of the weather. 
 
 Exhaling from the Atlantic surge. 
 
 Wild world of waters, distant clouds ascend 
 
 In vapoury confluence, deepening cloud on cloud. 
 
 These vast bodies of mist and vapour are attracted 
 by the lofty mountains of Kerry, and descend in tor- 
 rents of rain, deluging the country at a season when 
 fine weather and a bright sun are most wanting to 
 ripen the fruits of the earth. The romantic wander- 
 er, who then wades through the long wet grass, 
 sprinkled by every bush he passes under, and exclu- 
 ded from the charms of the prospect by impene- 
 trable clouds, reflects upon the voluptuous descrip- 
 tions which he has heard, and may perhaps lament 
 his own credulity. 
 
 The old abbey of Irrelagh, or of Mucruss, as it is 
 now commonly called, stands on an eminence in the 
 richest part of the domain, at a short distance from 
 the road leading to the mansion-house. A few years 
 ago it was generally lamented that the effect of these 
 ruins in the landscape was lost, from their being so 
 thickly enveloped by trees. The woodman has lately 
 been employed to open them to view on the side of 
 the church, and now perhaps rather too much is seen. 
 Had the large Gothic east window, and part of the 
 
24 
 
 church only been revealed, by lopping off the lower 
 branches of some of the intervening trees, enough 
 would have been shown to catch the eye ; and the 
 ruin, from being half concealed, would have appeared 
 to greater advantage, and have excited more curio- 
 sity, than it does at present.* iVs the ash trees which 
 grew on this side were, however, extremely old, and 
 decayed at the top, it was probably found more ad- 
 visable to remove them altogether than to leave them 
 standing in a deformed state, almost bare of foliage. 
 Perhaps a better effect would have resulted from 
 opening the prospect of that part of the abbey in 
 which the monks used to reside, instead of cutting 
 aw^ay any of the trees on the side of the church. 
 
 A ruined church js a common object, which, inde- 
 pendent of the picturesque beauty it may possess, 
 excites little interest ; but the sight of a monastery 
 carries us back to distant ages, and gives ri^e to a 
 train of reflection which every mind of sensibility 
 feels a pleasure in indulging. We remember that 
 these places were the asylums of men who, volunta- 
 rily renouncing the seducing pleasures of the world, 
 devoted themselves to the services of charity and of 
 religion. Hither the aged peasants from the neigh- 
 bouring hamlets flocked, in the hours of sickness and 
 
 * Mezzo aperta ancora, e mezzo ascosa, 
 Quanto 61 mostr^ men t^nto e piu beJla. 
 
25 
 
 of affliction, to obtain the advice and consolation of 
 the ghostly fathers, to crave the boon of charity, or 
 implore the blessing of Heaven on the labours of 
 their toiling offspring. Hither, during the ages of 
 violence and rapine, those who by inclination were 
 disposed to retirement and to ease could withdraw in 
 safety from the dangers of contending factions, and 
 devote themselves to the calm and tranquil pursuits 
 of literature. Tliese were the sacred retreats of 
 learning, where the germs of knowledge were pre- 
 served, till a more genial season bade them spring 
 forth and flourish in open day. 
 
 At the same time, we cannot behold these ancient 
 fabrics, their dismal aisles, their dark and narrow 
 cells, without drawing a comparison favourable to 
 ourselves between the gloomy and bigoted notions 
 of monkery and the more enlightened opinions of 
 modern days. Far from regretting their decline, 
 the philosophic mind triumphs at the dissolution of 
 institutions which were disgraced by vices of the 
 grossest nature ; where superstition was fostered, and 
 the streams of knowledge polluted at their source. 
 In this very abbey a miraculous image of the Virgin 
 Mary was preserved, by whose portentous move- 
 ments, directed at will, the friars imposed on the cre- 
 dulity of many an unsuspecting votary. The Irish 
 monastics, indeed, very soon lost sight of that vir- 
 tuous and rigorous system which in early times had 
 
26 
 
 gained them the esteem and admiration of surround- 
 ing nations. Giraldus, who travelled in Ireland in 
 the reign of Henry the Second, accuses the monks 
 of that period of the grossest hypocrisy and licenti- 
 ousness 5 and says, that, amongst the many thou- 
 sands in that country, scarcely one was to be found 
 who, after the incessant exertions of fasting and 
 praying, did not make himself ample amends during 
 the night, for the privations of the preceding day, by 
 large draughts of wine, and potations of various kinds, 
 to an excess which passed the bounds of decency ; 
 and he adds, that, where wine had established its em- 
 pire, it might be deemed a miracle if Venus did not 
 also rule.* 
 
 The abbey of Mucruss is a very pictm'esque ob* 
 ject from several points of view. It is seen to most 
 advantage from the south and west, within the pre*, 
 cincts of the grove. 
 
 * I transcribe the whole of the original passage, as to some per- 
 sons it may appear interesting : ** Sed utinam post longa jejunia, tam 
 s^brii fuerint quam serii, tam veri quam severi ; tam puri quam du- 
 ri ; tam existentes quam apparentes. Inter tot enim millia, vix 
 unum invenies, qui post jugem tam jejuniorum quam orationum in- 
 stantiam, vino variisque potionibus, diurnos labores, enormius quam 
 deceret noctu non redimat. Diem itaque naturalem tanquam ex 
 aequo dividentes, lucidaque spiritui, tempora nocturna quoque carni 
 dedican^es, sicut de luce lucis operibus indulgent, sic et in tenebris, 
 a4 tenebrarum opera convertuntur. Unde et hoc pro miraculo du- 
 cj potest, quod ubi vina dominantur Venus non regnat." — Gir. 
 Camb. Top\ Hib* Ik Ckricis et Monastics, 
 
27 
 Here are 
 
 deep empty tombs, 
 
 And dells and mouldering shrines, with old decay 
 Rustic and green, and wide embowering shades 
 Shot from the crooked clefts of nodding towers. 
 
 The whole length of the church is about one hun- 
 dred feet, its breadth twenty-four. The steeple, 
 built upon four lofty pointed arches, under which 
 there is a free communication, stands between the 
 nave and the chancel. The principal entrance is at 
 the west end, under a large pointed arch of blueish 
 marble, embellished by several plain mouldings, which 
 are well wrought, and in good preservation. From 
 this entrance a very pleasing view opens of the great 
 eastern window, which is seen through the arches of 
 the steeple > and also of the large portal of the tran- 
 sept on the south side of the nave. The cloister was 
 the best executed part of the whole fabric ; and it is 
 still perfect. It consists of a quadrangle of forty-six 
 feet, encompassed by a vaulted walk six feet wide, 
 whose pillars and arches are formed of blueish and 
 pale red marble. The pillars are finished exactly 
 ahke, but the arches vary both in number and in 
 form. At two of the contiguous sides they are of 
 the sharp-pointed kind, commonly known by the 
 name of Gothic, and are ten in number ; the corre-» 
 sponding sides contain twelve semicircular arches, 
 
28 
 
 tlow this capricious variety, so frequently to be 
 observed in the religious buildings of those infant 
 days of art and taste, was first introduced, we cau 
 now only conjecture : beauty and utility alike dis- 
 own it as their offspring. Probably it originated in 
 the dissensions which arose among the brotherhood, 
 before the style of their future residence was deter- 
 mined : and of the obstinacy with which they con- 
 tended, and the folly with which they compromised 
 this important subject, the abbey of Mucruss to this 
 day remains a striking and a melancholy monument. 
 
 At two of the opposite corners of the cloister 
 there are stairs leading to the cells over tbe vaulted 
 walk, and to the chief apartments of the abbey. The 
 latter are in a very dilapidated state : but several of 
 the cells remain entire ; and under the little grates by 
 which they were lighted, one may still see the broad 
 flat stones upon which the monks offered up their 
 orisons, worn and polished by the pressure of many 
 a weary knee. Around the summit of the building 
 there is a safe walk, defended by an embattled para- 
 pet. The lake from hence is barely visible through 
 the trees; but, were a very few of the intervening 
 branches removed, the view would be delightful : it 
 is impossible, indeed, not to extol the taste which the 
 monks displayed in choosing q, situation for their 
 ^bbey. 
 
1>9 
 
 The remembrance of what this place once was, is 
 fresh in the minds of the country people ; and many 
 a pious devotee, impressed with a fond belief of its 
 sanctity, may be seen before the tombs and ancient 
 shrines in deep and earnest prayer. The appearance 
 of these poor people, clad in long russet garments, 
 prostrated on their knees, and counting their beads 
 with all the enthusiasm of devotion, is quite in cha- 
 racter with the solemnity of the scene, and calcula- 
 ted to increase the melancholy and religious awe 
 which the contemplation of so venerable a ruin is 
 likely to inspire. 
 
 In the centre of the cloister grows a remarkably 
 large yew tree. It rises to the height of fourteen 
 feet, with a straight and smooth bole, and then throws 
 out several large arms, which mount above the high- 
 est walls, and overshadow the greater part of the 
 building. Such is the gloominess diffused over the 
 cloister by its thick and dusky foliage, that the bat 
 is frequently observed flitting through the vaulted 
 arches at noon day. This tree, it may be supposed, 
 was long a favourite with the monks ; but, much as 
 they might have rejoiced in its flourishing state, had 
 they continued to occupy the monastery until the 
 present day, they must have consented, however re- 
 luctantly, either to strip it of its honours, or to relin- 
 quish the studies of their darkened cells. The vaults 
 
30 
 
 and winding passages of the abbey are still more 
 gloomy than the cloister : — 
 
 There, through thick walls, oblique the broken light, 
 JFrom harrow loop-holes, quivers to the sight. 
 
 This obscurity adds much to the effect of the ruin, 
 and, combined with the stillness arid solitude of deep 
 xetirement, the fragments of monumental grandeur, 
 and the frightful spectacles of mouldering mortality, 
 forms an association highly calculated to inspire the 
 imagination with visionary fears. As you wander 
 on, the mind, yielding to the impression of such 
 gloomy images, becomes aibstracted from this world. 
 The shade of every waving branch is converted to a 
 spectre, and the echoes of the footsteps to the whis- 
 pering of the ideal inhabitants. The startled senses 
 distrust their own perception, and the delusion can 
 scarcely be dispelled by returning to the cheerful re- 
 gions of light and life* 
 
 These effects are not fictitious. An instance once 
 occurred to my own knowledge, in which a visit to 
 this place was attended with almost fatal consequen- 
 ces to two young ladies. Having strayed on before 
 the rest of their party, they unexpectedly found them- 
 selves, near the close of the day, at the portal of the 
 abbey. Curiosity prompted them to enter ; and, 
 unsuspicious of any cause of alarm, they heedlessly 
 passed on to the inmost recesses of the building. 
 
SI 
 
 The frightful objects which there assailed their eyes 
 urged them to instant flight. In vain, however, did 
 they endeavour to retrace the way by which they 
 had entered : the intricacy of the passages bafHed 
 their eager attempts to escape. Overcome by terror, 
 they fainted away ; and it was not until a long time 
 after they were discovered, that the anxious efforts 
 of their friends succeeded in restoring them to ani- 
 mation. In reality, they had beheld objects which 
 might have struck a momentary panic into minds 
 less deUcately framed : they had found themselves 
 suddenly and unexpectedly environed by all the hor- 
 rors of a charneUhouse. 
 
 This abbey is a common and favourite place of bu- 
 rial : the limits of the cemetery are small ; the depth 
 of the soil inconsiderable. The consequence is, that 
 coffins, with their mouldering contents, are not un- 
 frequently removed to make room for others, long 
 before decency can warrant such a measure. In a 
 passage leading to the cloister I once found a head, 
 with a considerable part of the flesh of the face and 
 nearly the entire hair upon it, literally rolling under 
 foot ; and though the place from time to time is 
 carefully cleared, yet the bones, sculls, and coffin- 
 boards that are prematurely dug up, quickly accu- 
 mulate again. The boards are deposited in the vaults, 
 one of which, adjoining to the church, is now entirely 
 filled with them to the very crown of the arch : the 
 
32 
 
 bones and sculls are heaped up in the angle formed 
 by the transept and the nave of the church, at the 
 outside of the building, where many thousands of 
 them may be seen, bleached to an extraordinary de- 
 gree of whiteness by their exposure to the weather.* 
 
 Persons who can afford the expense, have excava- 
 tions made in the rock, and tombs built over them, 
 with large trap-doors at one end, removable by iron 
 rings ; but the poorer classes of the people generally 
 content themselves with depositing the coffin in a 
 cranny of the rock, and covering it with loose stones, 
 A day scarcely passes without a burial at Mucruss 
 abbey ; and disagreeable as it must be to the pro- 
 prietor of the demesne, especially in this country, 
 where such a concourse of people attends the cere- 
 mony of interment with cries and bowlings, yet it is 
 not thought expedient to oppose it. 
 
 The attachment of the Irish peasantry to their fa- 
 mily burying-place is boundless. Bodies are not un- 
 frequently conveyed from a distance of twenty miles 
 across the mountains, to be interred at Mucruss ab- 
 bey ; men, women, and children, following in multi- 
 tudes : and were any attempts made to prevent fu- 
 
 * In the cemetery of Buttevant Abbey, in the county of Lime- 
 rick, the sculls and bones have been piled up in the form of a thick 
 wall, against which there grows a very large old ivy tree, which 
 binds them strongly together ; but this is not an unusual circum- 
 stance ill many other parts of Ireland as well as England. 
 
ture burials in the abbey, it probably might, even in 
 this peaceable neighbourhood, be the occasion of 
 alarming disturbances. 
 
 A funeral procession formerly, in consequence of 
 the common notion entertained by the peasants that 
 it was an act of duty, if they happened to be within 
 sight, to follow it for some distance, was wont to be 
 productive of idleness throughout the district which 
 it passed. Travellers that were met on the road, 
 though strangers to the country, and unacquainted 
 with the deceased, were expected to do the same ; 
 and if they showed any unwillingness, they were 
 sometimes compelled to turn, and testify their re- 
 spect by a temporary attendance. This custom, like 
 that which still obtains of assembling a numerous 
 body of followers to attend a funeral, is of high an- 
 tiquity ; and appears to be derived from the ancient 
 division of the people into septs or small tribes, and 
 from the petty warfares in which they were almost 
 unceasingly engaged. The funeral of a chief, or of 
 a distinguished person, was considered as a rallying 
 point ; where the friends and adherents of the de- 
 ceased, and those w4io were disposed to protect his 
 successors and defend their inheritance, were ex- 
 pected to show themselves. Absence on these occa* 
 sions indicated, or was construed into, enmity or dis- 
 respect. Persons in inferior situations soon began 
 to claim an equal tribute of attention from their kins- 
 
34 
 
 folks and acquaintances ; and a custom, which afford- 
 ed an opportunity for the display of friendship and 
 good-will, readily found its favourers down to th^ 
 present time. Idleness has also a great share in col- 
 lecting people on these occasions. 
 
 As the crowds which are thus assembled cannot 
 all be afflicted with grief, it follows that these meet- 
 ings, where numerous friends and acquaintances, 
 male and female, are brought together, are more 
 productive of festivity and joy than sorrow and 
 mourning. The countenances of many who attend, 
 far from being expressive of seriousness, betray 
 marks, on the contrary, of the most indecent merri- 
 ment 5 and, in some instances, doubts might even be 
 entertained of the reality of the grief of those per- 
 sons who do appear to mourn. It is almost needless 
 here to remark, that these observations pertain to the 
 funerals of the lower classes of the people. 
 
 I once met a funeral procession in its passage from 
 the town of Killarney to Mucruss abbey, which exhi- 
 bited a remarkable instance of apparent vehemence 
 of grief and real indifference. The coffin was pla- 
 ced in a small hearse under a canopy, and upon it 
 was seated an old grey-headed woman, who seemed 
 to be actually convulsed with sorrow. She uttered 
 the most doleful cries ; alternately smote her breast 
 and the lid of the coffin ; and occasionally prostra- 
 ting herself upon it, endeavoured as it were to em- 
 
35 
 
 brace the once-beloved object of her affections. Such 
 demonstrations of excessive grief could not be seen 
 without interest, and I was irresistibly led to mix 
 among the train, when, to my great surprise, I found 
 that she had not shed a single tear. After a few mi- 
 nutes, her clamour w^as suspended, and she turned to 
 speak with indifference to the people near her ; on 
 many of whose countenances were to be traced emo- 
 tions more in unison with her levity than with the 
 semblance of her former sorrow.* I was not able to 
 
 * It would be wrong to infer from this recital that the lower 
 classes of the Irish are devoid of sensibihty ; on the contrary, where 
 strong demonstrations of passion are commonly observed amongst 
 a people, it may fairly be concluded that they are possessed of 
 acute feelings. But to the violence of grief or joy amongst the 
 Irish, the same importance is not to be attached as amongst a more 
 sedate and sober people. Giraldus Cambrensis, who was no inac- 
 curate observer of the character of the Irish, though credulous and 
 mistaken in many points, says that all their actions were immode- 
 rate, and their passions most vehement : — ** Est enim gens haec 
 cunctis fere in actibus immoderata, et in omnes affectus vehemen- 
 tissima." This remark is still apposite, and may be illustrated by 
 the following incident : 
 
 One morning, whilst I was sitting in my apartment in Killarney, 
 giving some directions to a tradesman, a sudden noise was heard 
 through the town ; 
 
 A troublous noise 
 That seemed some perilous tumult to desine, 
 Confused with women's cries and shouts of boyes. 
 
 The man dropped on his knees, crossed his forehead, and uttered 
 a prayer. On looking out of the window, the people in the streets 
 all appeared in the extremity of distress : some piteously wringing 
 
se 
 
 learn whether she was one of those persons common 
 at Killarney who are hired to attend funerals and to 
 sing the death-song ; but very probably she was. 
 
 The death-song, or death-cry, as^ it more properly 
 deserves to be, and indeed is most commonly called, 
 is there kept up, incessantly, for several days and 
 nights in the house of the deceased : those women 
 "^rho have the best lungs and the most lively imagi- 
 nation get the most money for their services. A 
 friend of mine was induced, by curiosity, to procure 
 a translation of one of these extemporaneous death- 
 
 their hands, others beating their breasts. One of the principal in- 
 habitants came running out of his house, with loud lamentations 
 clasping his hands, and exclaiming, in all the bitterness of grief, 
 that " If he had had daughters that morning, he was now childless." 
 Had an earthquake swallowed up a part of the town, or half the in- 
 habitants been put to the sword, the confusion could not have been 
 greater. The moment was really awful. It was impossible to learn 
 from the people, deeply occupied as they were with their individual 
 sufferings, what had happened ; and dragoons were seen, with drawn 
 swords, galloping across the end of the street. An officer who was 
 exercising some companies of mihtia in the court before Lord Ken- 
 mare's house, had actually marched them into the street, and had 
 drawn them up ready for action, before he could get the least inti- 
 mation of the occasion of the tumult. At last we learned that the 
 Roman Catholic chapel had fallen upon great numbers of the people, 
 and that the troopers were hastening to the spot to keep off the 
 crowd, and to facilitate the removal of those killed or wounded. I 
 ran to the place, prepared to witness some spectacle of excessive 
 calamity, when the intelligence I received removed every uneasy 
 apprehension. The joists of the gallery, which was exceedingly 
 thronged in consequence of a festival, had cracked. A general pa- 
 nic followed, but not an individual was injured. 
 
37 
 
 songs. It dwelt much on those virtues in the de- 
 ceased which are the usual subject of admiration 
 among uncivilized nations ; and, in particular, on 
 his extreme hospitality ; each verse concluding with 
 the burthen, " O may the grass never grow before 
 his door !" 
 
 The exact period of the foundation of Mucruss 
 abbey is not well ascertained. According to some 
 statements, it was founded as early as the year 1340 ; 
 but the authority of Wading * has been adduced to 
 the contrary, who declares that he had seen a bull 
 of Pope Paul the Second, which proved that it was 
 founded by one of the earls of Desmond, and not 
 until the year 1449. In the Monasticon Hiberni- 
 cum, by the Reverend Mervyn Archdall, the foun- 
 dation is fixed at 1440, and ascribed to Donald 
 McCarthy. It belonged to the Conventual Francis- 
 cans ; whose rules, though so much relaxed from the 
 original institutions of their patron and founder St 
 Francis, as to have occasioned a final schism in the 
 order, yet still did not allow them to hold extensive 
 territorial possessions ; but in the superior construc- 
 tion of their convents, and the convenience of their 
 accommodations, the brotherhood endeavoured to 
 make themselves ample amends for the mortifications 
 to which they were otherwise subjected. 
 
 * Smith's History of Kerry. 
 
38 
 
 This abbey, either by forfeiture or surrender, de- 
 volved to the crown at the time of the reformation, 
 and Queen Elizabeth made a grant of it to Robert 
 Collam j but from an inscription on a stone in the 
 north wall of the chancel of the church, of which the 
 following is a transcript, it may be inferred that the 
 tnonks continued to inhabit it long after this period. 
 
 ftwu-rri5- triage 
 
 ])o/enb^ubf)unoi 
 Bcru-coa\)ptu*de. 
 
 h- cumuft_~_r; 
 
 i(pX;cmm'Ui(fpf 
 
 Orate p (pro) felici 
 
 statu fris (Jratris,) Tbade (i) 
 
39 
 
 Holeni qui hunc s- 
 
 acru (m) convetu (conventum) de 
 
 novo reparare 
 
 curavit 
 Anno Domini millesimo 
 sexcentesimo vigesimo sexto. 
 
 " Pray for the happy state of brother Thadeus 
 Holenus, who superintended the rebuilding or re- 
 pairing of this sacred convent, A. D. 1626." The 
 beginning of the last word on the fifth line is oblite- 
 rated, and the remainder of it, 7^are^ can only be tra- 
 ced with difficulty. I have made the word reparare. 
 The use of this character, which is Meso-Gothic, at 
 so late a period, and long after it had ceased to be 
 employed in England, and even in other parts of 
 Ireland, is a proof of the slow progress which arts 
 and literature had made in Kerry. 
 
 The history of the decay of this abbey, notwith- 
 standing its more recent date, is involved in still 
 deeper obscurity. Dr Smith, in his History of Kerry, 
 informs us, that in his days the bell of the convent 
 was discovered in the lake, at a short distance from 
 the shore of Mucruss ; from which circumstance it 
 may be inferred that the building, at some period, 
 suffered from violence. Probably the soldiers of the 
 parliamentary army were instrumental to its destruc- 
 
40 
 
 tion ; of whose outrages the country about Killarney 
 was a distinguished scene. 
 
 From the borders of the grove which envelops the 
 abbey, a smooth verdant lawn stretches down to the 
 lake. On leaving the demesne of Mucruss, if you 
 should have entered it by the gate at the village, it 
 is desirable, for the sake of variety, to traverse this 
 lawn, keeping near the water : and after having 
 crossed the little stream which bounds the demesne, 
 there is an agreeable ride along the gravelly beach, 
 at the head of Castle Lough bay ; from which place 
 a private avenue leads to the high road. 
 
 As you pass along this part of Mucruss, two 
 small islands are observable at a short distance from 
 the main shore. One of them is called Heron or 
 Friar's island ; the other Osprey rock : it better de- 
 serves, however, the name of Cormorant rock, from 
 being so much more frequently the resort of the 
 latter bird. Seldom, indeed, is it seen without many 
 of these voracious animals sitting upon its craggy 
 point, in eager expectation of the approach of their 
 finny prey. The neighbouring island is frequented 
 by herons ; and, what seems remarkable, these birds 
 never invade each other's territories. Numerous 
 other aquatic birds are also generally to be seen 
 about this part of th^ lake, attracted by the fish which 
 frequent the shallows. 
 
41 
 
 In light-wing'd squadrons, gulls of every name, 
 Screaming discordant, o'er the surface hang. 
 And ceaseless stoop for prey. 
 
 Their devious flights enliven the scene j and their 
 shrill cries, whilst they add to the wildness of the 
 scene, are not devoid of interest. 
 
 Sounds inharmonious in themselves and harsh, 
 Yet heard in scenes where peace for ever dwells 
 And only there, please highly for their sake. 
 
 The noisy birds which commonly frequent the sea- 
 shores were not beneath the verse of Homer in his 
 description of the enchanting island of Calypso; and 
 it will not readily be admitted that his faithful re- 
 presentation of nature is less pleasing than that of 
 the writers of romance, who, on all occasions, were 
 wont to fill the groves of fairy land with birds of 
 melodious notes and gaudy plumage.* 
 
 The heron breeds in the woods of Mucruss, and 
 pains are taken to preserve it from the wanton at- 
 
 Od. lib. 5. 1. 65. 
 Thus rendered by Pope : 
 
 On the high branches waving in the storm 
 Birds of the broadest wing theif mansion form, 
 The chough, the sea-mew, and loquacious crow. 
 And scream aloft, and skim the deep below. 
 
42 
 
 tacks of fowlers : nor is this bird undeserving of pro- 
 tection, whose appearance is so picturesque, whether 
 beheld stalking amongst the withered reeds, on the 
 brink of the pool, or steering with slow and solemn 
 wing through the glades of the forest, where the dark 
 foliage forms a relief to his " pale grey plumes." 
 
 The old fortress of Castle lough stands on an insu- 
 lated rock near the head of the bay. Its position 
 might have rendered it strong ; but it was too much 
 limited in extent to have been a place of great im- 
 portance. So completely was it demolished by the 
 parliamentary army, that the few remaining frag- 
 ments of the walls are now scarcely discernible from 
 the rocks on which they rest. The name of Castle 
 lough is at present given to a neat little villa belong- 
 ing to Mrs Delany, the grounds of which are prettily 
 disposed. 
 
 At Castle lough the flat commences, which has al- 
 ready been mentioned in the general description of 
 the boundaries of the lower lake. As far as the ri- 
 ver Flesk it forms a part of the grounds of Cahir- 
 nane, the seat of Mr Richard Herbert, a place well 
 wooded, and possessing many natural advantages. 
 The original entrance to the house is through an 
 avenue of fine old trees, which the proprietor, unin- 
 fluenced by that spirit of innovation which character- 
 ises the present age, has carefully preserved ; while 
 he has evinced his taste in the judicious choice of a 
 
■^ 
 
45 
 
 new approach from another part of the domain, which 
 passes alternately through woods and lawns, and be- 
 tween large masses of rocks, covered, like the small 
 islands of the lake, with shrubs and evergreens. The 
 straight avenues, in which our ancestors so much de- 
 lighted, have surely too often been treated with dis- 
 respect, and condemned without mature consider- 
 ation. Many a mansion, by their removal, has lost 
 that venerable aspect which it before enjoyed. In 
 summer their shade is refreshing ; and though they 
 can rarely lay claim to picturesque beavity, yet occa- 
 sionally they are highly pleasing. 
 
 Ye fallen avenues, once more I mourn 
 Your fate unmerited ; once more rejoice 
 That yet a remnant of your race survives. 
 How airy and how light the graceful arch ! 
 
 The tall limes which border upon the road lead- 
 ing from Flesk bridge to Killarney, furnish a remark- 
 able example of the agreeable effect of straight rows 
 of trees in certain situations ; and seldom fail to pre- 
 possess the stranger in favour of the town, who ap- 
 proaches it for the first time in this direction. Uni- 
 ting over head, they form a lofty shade impervious 
 to the meridian sun. Every disagreeable object, 
 usually met with in the outskirts of a country town, 
 is effectually excluded from view by the foliage on 
 each side j and in the distance, between the rows, 
 
44 
 
 are just seen the church and adjoining houses. That 
 such avenues are not more common, especially in 
 the neighbourhood of towns, where they aiFord the 
 inhabitants agreeable and sheltered walks, is much 
 to be regretted. Surely the inconvenience which 
 arises from the moisture they diffuse over the roads, 
 is more than counterbalanced by their shade and 
 beautiful appearance in summer. 
 
 The flat which extends from the river Flesk to the 
 road leading to Ross castle, is occupied by small fields 
 bare of trees, and mostly divided by stone fences. 
 Still further on, at the opposite side of the road, lie 
 the gardens and pleasure-grounds attached to the 
 house of the Earl of Kenmare. It would be difficult 
 to find a more striking instance of the perverted taste 
 of former times than this place exhibits. Though 
 the noble person by whose order it was laid out, was 
 lord of the soil for miles around, and might have 
 fixed his residence where he pleased, yet, as if Na- 
 ture had in those days lost the power of pleasing, no 
 advantage has been taken of the varied scenery of 
 Killarney : the most beautiful and commanding si- 
 tuations were all disregarded, and the only flat piece 
 of ground in the country studiously selected for a dis- 
 play of the insipid regularities of a Dutch garden. 
 
 No pleasing intricacies intervene, 
 
 No artful wildness to perplex the scene ; 
 
45 
 
 Grove nods at grove, each alley has a brother, 
 And half the platform just reflects the other. 
 
 Beyond the precincts of the old gardens, walks and 
 shrubberies have been laid out in a more modern 
 taste, and other improvements on an extensive scale, 
 it is said, have been projected. The trees near the 
 house are large, and numerous grand mountain pros- 
 pects might readily be opened between them ; but, 
 owing to the lowness of the ground and the evenness 
 of its surface, the lake can never be seen to advan- 
 tage. At the end of the long straight vista which 
 opens behind the house, it just appears a narrow 
 streak in the horizon, like a distant river. In a less 
 romantic country, these grounds would be thought 
 very beautiful. 
 
 In attempting to account for the peculiar evenness 
 of the ground at the rear of Lord Kenmare's mansion, 
 one might be induced at first sight to suppose that 
 the lake had once flowed over it, and had afterwards 
 contracted within its original limits: but appear- 
 ances in the face of nature are deceitful, and often 
 baffle the most ingenious conjectures that can be 
 formed concerning their causes. That the lake has 
 preserved nearly the same level, for many ages, is ob- 
 vious from the discovery of the remains of an ancient 
 wood beneath the turf-bog which joins that part of 
 the grounds called the West Demesne. On the bor- 
 ders of Ross bay, where this bog has been entirely 
 
46 
 
 cut away, the stumps of the trees now stand exposed 
 to view, in an upright position, firmly fixed in the ori- 
 ginal soil upon which they grew. They consist mostly 
 of birch and pine ; and if, from their dimensions, a 
 judgment may be formed of the trees which they 
 supported, the latter must have been of immense 
 size. 
 
 There is reason to suppose that turf-bogs, in many 
 instances, have been formed by the ruins of forests 
 overwhelmed by floods, or prostrated by hurricanes ; 
 between the branches of whose trees a nidus was af- 
 forded for the accumulated growth of fibrous plants, 
 of which, with the admixture of a small proportion 
 of earthy particles, the turf or peat of this country 
 is almost universally formed. The solid stems of the 
 trees, less subject to decay, are commonly found in 
 bogs at a great depth, and sometimes in such excel- 
 lent preservation that they are esteemed equal to any 
 other timber for substantial buildings. I have seen 
 some very beautiful and expensive pieces of furniture 
 made of solid bog yew. The pine and fir woods, 
 though inapplicable to such valuable purposes, are 
 not devoid of use ; amongst others, being highly in- 
 flammable, splinters of them are substituted for 
 candles among the poor. 
 
 The peasantry are in the constant practice, with 
 the permission of their landlords, of raising trees out 
 of the bogs in this part of the country. They first 
 
47 
 
 search for them by pushing down long spears through 
 the spungy superincumbent mass ; and having ascer- 
 tained their exact position, they open a large trench. 
 The trees are sometimes easily taken up by these 
 means ; but occasionally it happens that a large la- 
 teral branch, or a spur underneath, holds the stem 
 firmly down, contrary to the expectation of the ad- 
 venturers. Additional trenches must then be open- 
 ed, corresponding with their direction; and even 
 these efforts in complicated cases often proving abor- 
 tive, they are ultimately reduced to the necessity 
 of abandoning altogether the object of their pursuit, 
 or of resorting to the painful and unprofitable labour 
 of severing it into small pieces by the axe. Their ex- 
 ertions are also sometimes baffled by the sudden in- 
 flux of water, and sometimes by the falling in of the 
 banks of the trenches. Amidst impediments so fre- 
 quent, it is obvious that profit must be precarious ; 
 and from inquiries amongst numerous parties that I 
 found digging for trees on the hills near the town of 
 Killarney, relative to their general success, I was led 
 to conclude that a great portion of valuable labour 
 was lost in this uncertain pursuit ; but the persons 
 engaged in it, regardless of frequent failure, and ani- 
 mated, like those intent upon a game of chance, with 
 the hopes of large gains, seemed to prefer it to the 
 ordinary occupations of industry. 
 
 There are many bogs, however, in which no re- 
 
48 
 
 mains of trees can be discovered ; and that their for- 
 mation is not dependent in every instance upon the 
 decay of the forest, is evident from the circumstance 
 of their being sometimes situated upon rocks where 
 no trees could possibly have grown. On the sum- 
 mit of an insulated pile of rocks at the mouth of 
 Ross bay, called O'Donoghue's prison, there is a bog 
 of the depth of some feet, which plainly demonstrates 
 this fact. 
 
 The little stream called the Deanagh forms a 
 boundary to the flat, on the north. Beyond it the 
 ground is diversified with gentle knolls covered with 
 verdure, and adorned with some fine trees, beneath 
 which there are walks commanding very charming 
 prospects of the lake. The pleasure-grounds attach- 
 ed to Kenmare house extend a considerable distance 
 in this direction, and a wooden bridge across the 
 stream connects them with the old gardens. By the 
 liberality of the noble proprietor, strangers are per- 
 mitted to frequent these agreeable walks, as well as 
 those on the flat ground beyond the precincts of the 
 gardens, until the close of day, when the gates are 
 shut. 
 
 Near the river Deanagh, the shores of the lake are 
 indented by numerous little sandy creeks or recesses, 
 bounded at each side by masses of rocks, which over- 
 look the islands at the mouth of Ross bay. From 
 the promontory known by the name of Reen point. 
 
49 
 
 the woods of Innlsfallen island, which lie just at such 
 a distance that individual trees can be distinguished 
 amongst the tufts of foliage, with their reflections in 
 the lake, appear with uncommon beauty. It is from 
 the summit of these rocks alone, however, that the 
 prospect fully unfolds its charms. The spectator who 
 stands on the sandy beach between them, or on other 
 parts of the low shore, can command but a very con- 
 tracted view of the w^ater ; and as he retires across 
 the flat towards the hills, it becomes less and less 
 conspicuous, and at last nearly vanishes from the 
 eye: but, on ascending the heights, it re-appears, 
 and assumes breadth and importance at every step. 
 Of the effect of its first appearance from the foot of 
 the hills an idea may be formed, from the view which 
 is here inserted of Flesk bridge, taken from the banks 
 of that river. At this elevation the lake seems to be 
 only a continuation of the river Flesk, which had 
 overflowed its banks, and spread over a tract of low 
 plashy ground.* On ascending higher, the wooded 
 islands become more distinct ; and the lake, instead 
 of appearing like a dilatation of the Flesk, rather 
 wears the aspect of a majestic navigable river, which 
 received its tributary stream whilst rolling on through 
 
 * The different points of land which are seen in the middle dis- 
 tance of this view are the islands in and about Ross bay ; the large 
 mountain in the distance is a part of Tomies. The Flesk fails a iew 
 feet after passing under the bridge, and does not appear beyond it. 
 
 D 
 
50 
 
 a spacious valley. On continuing to ascend, a wider 
 expanse of water opens to the view ; and the actual 
 form and limits of the lake are fully displayed in all 
 their extent and magnificence. 
 
 To describe the varied combinations of pict^resque 
 beauties with which these shores abound, would be a 
 vain attempt, where every step produces change, and 
 every change delights. Let those who are earnestly 
 bent upon a minute examination of the charming 
 scenery of Killarney, freely range along the confines 
 of the lake without the control of a guide, and en- 
 deavour to behold it under every possible point of 
 view. 
 
 In this tract 
 
 How long soe'er the wanderer roves, each step 
 Shall wake fresh beauties ; each short point present 
 A different picture, new, and yet the same. 
 
 It will generally be found advisable, however, itt 
 proceeding over these hills, to avoid ascending to 
 such an elevation as discovers the full extent of the 
 lake, and yet to keep sufficiently above the level of 
 the water, to command a view of it above or between 
 the intervening trees. From several positions on the 
 hills, particularly from parts of the extensive deer- 
 park belonging to Lord Kenmare, the prospect of 
 the flat shore is effectually excluded by the hanging 
 woods which grow on the slope beneath; and the 
 w^oods of Mucruss on one side, and those about the 
 
31 
 
 river Laune on the other, being seen emerging in 
 the distance behind the trees which occupy the fore- 
 ground, one might imagine that the shores of the 
 lake were covered with a vast forest from end to end. 
 From these positions, the situation of the town of 
 Killarney is marked in the landscape by its smoke, 
 and the church steeple just rising above the tops of 
 the trees, and it has all the appearance of being ro- 
 mantically situated on the very margin of the lake. 
 
 The mountain prospects from this side of the lake 
 vary materially from those which are commanded 
 from the hills of Mucruss. At the latter place, 
 owing to the nearness of the spectator, the great 
 chain of mountains is beheld as it were in profile ; 
 whilst here the eye, being removed to a convenient 
 distance, and placed directly opposite to the line, is 
 enabled to range along it for many miles. At Mu- 
 cruss also the prospect is confined to the frontier 
 mountains ; here, from the height of the situation, 
 the tops of other mountains, which arise behind those 
 of the great chain, are discovered gradually receding 
 behind each other in wild variety. On arriving op- 
 posite to the defile between Turk and Glena, a very 
 grand and picturesque view opens through it, of the 
 mountains situated beyond the upper lake, which, in 
 clear weather, and towards the close of day, is height- 
 ened by the contrast of light and shade that is then 
 observable along the sides of the defile, and by the 
 
52 
 
 strong illumination of the mountains in the distance* 
 But in general it will be found that the views directly 
 across the lake are much less picturesque than those 
 which open to the right and left, when the eye is 
 carried obliquely along the range of mountains. It 
 will be found also, that the views to the right, to- 
 wards Macarthy More's country, are far more pictu- 
 resque than those to the left, looking over Mucruss, 
 owing to the more graceful outline of the mountains, 
 and to the greater variety of objects in the middle 
 distance. The green hills which bound the domain 
 of Mucruss obstruct the view at the base of the moun- 
 tain on that side ; whilst, in the opposite direction^ 
 the eye commands, beyond the lake, the rich wooded 
 vale watered by the river Laune, an extensive and 
 variegated prospect ; 
 
 . . . . sweet interehange 
 
 Of hill and valley, rivers, woods, and plains ; 
 
 Now land, now sea, and shores with forests crown'd. 
 
 The charms of landscape are, in almost every in- 
 stance, heightened by the glowing tints, and by the 
 deep and lengthened shadows, which are diffused over 
 the face of nature by the setting sun ; but the scenes 
 of the lower lake of Killarney, especially those which 
 are commanded from the hills, appear to so much 
 greater advantage, 
 
 .... when many-colour'd evening 
 Sinks behind the purple woods and hills— 
 
53 
 
 that the objects, which had been a source of dehght 
 in their sombre livery, can with difficulty be recog- 
 nised for the same in the splendour of their new 
 attire. 
 
 Until the sun has ascended to his meridian height, 
 the mountains bordering upon the lower lake remain 
 in shadow. Their surface then appears tame and un- 
 varied, and their summit, if it be in clear weather, 
 forms a hard outline against the azure sky ; but as 
 the day advances, the sun crosses the line of the 
 great chain, and darts his rays on that side of the 
 mountains which lies next to the lake. All their 
 bold irregularities are then revealed; their protru- 
 ding rocks ; their deep glens ; and the lake, illumined 
 by the gleams which pass athwart its peaceful waves, 
 appears resplendent amidst the dark and wooded 
 islands. 
 
 The horizontal clouds 
 
 With purple dyes, and fissures edged with gold, 
 Streak the calm ether, while through the sparkling haze 
 The faint hills glimmer ; fainter as thtir chains 
 Approach the fount of brightness ; fainter still 
 Where sunk the parting orb, and with the sky 
 In undistinguishable splendour join'd. 
 
 I have sometimes imagined that the sun set with 
 more splendour at Killarney than in other parts of 
 the country; and, indeed, there can be no doubt 
 that the diversity of light and colours in the sky is 
 pigmented by the vast collections of clouds which 
 
5'4 
 
 are attracted by the mountains, as they come from 
 the Atlantic, 
 
 Or whirPd tempestuous by the gusty wind. 
 
 Or silent borne along, heavy and slow, 
 
 With the big stores of steaming Ocean charged. 
 
 These clouds not only occasion the most grand and 
 beautiful effects at the approach of evening, but ex- 
 hibit infinite vicissitudes of light and shade through- 
 out the day, altering from hour to hour the face of 
 the landscape. 
 
 Occasionally an effect is produced by the setting 
 sun, on the range of mountains bounding the lake, 
 not less beautiful than rare, and totally differing from 
 what I remember to have seen in other mountainous 
 countries ; though doubtless, in particular situations, 
 the same appearance may result from the variations 
 of the atmosphere. I can only attempt to give an 
 idea of' it by describing it as displaying the moun- 
 tains in a transparent state, and suffused with a lively 
 purple hue. Varying, however, from the aerial as- 
 pect of distant mountains, all the objects upon them, 
 rocks, woods, and even houses, are distinctly visible, 
 more so, indeed, than at noon day; whilst, at the 
 same time, their forms appear so unsubstantial, so ethe- 
 real, that one might almost fancy it possible to pass 
 through them without resistance. I happened to be 
 alone when I first witnessed this singular and beauti- 
 ful phenomenon ; and having communicated it to 
 
some friends who were with me at Killarney, we se- 
 veral times walked down to the lake when the state 
 of the atmosphere seemed propitious ; but being fre- 
 quently disappointed in our hopes of beholding it, 
 my description began to pass for the mere creation 
 of fancy : at last, however, the mountains put on 
 this magical aspect, and incredulity instantly gave 
 place to admiration and delight. This appearance is 
 very transient, continuing only for about ten minutes, 
 whilst the sun approaches the earth, and is sinking 
 below the horizon. The mountains on which it is 
 observable are Tomies, and those which lie next to 
 it in the chain towards the west. 
 
 The hills which rise behind the flat not only com. 
 mand extensive and beautiful views of the lake, 
 mountains, and the surrounding country, but in 
 themselves possess many interesting features that 
 cannot fail to gratify those who will be at the pains 
 to examine them. In some parts, particularly in the 
 extensive deer-park of Lord Kenmare, tliey are richly 
 wooded with oaks, in others they are diversified with 
 smooth knolls and green slopes, or broken by rocks ; 
 and numerous rivulets descend along their sides to 
 the lake. In the park there is a very romantic rocky 
 glen, watered by a clear stream. Commodious walks 
 at each side are cut amongst the rocks and trees, and 
 rustic seats placed for the repose of the weary, or the 
 contemplation of the enthusiast, Sometimes a strag« 
 
66 
 
 gling deer, overleaping the fence, finds his way into 
 this sequestered Httle spot, adding, by his wild as- 
 pect, to the picturesque effect of the scene, whether 
 he is descried emerging from the thickets, or stoop- 
 ing to drink 
 
 Just in the dubious point, where, with the pool. 
 Is mixed the trembhng stream, or where it boils 
 Around the stone. 
 
 The park commences at the distance of half a mile 
 from the town, on the road leading to Castle island ; 
 and thence extends for some miles towards the south- 
 east. The hill which it occupies, at the end next to 
 the town, slopes gently towards the lake ; but, at the 
 opposite extremity, a range of lesser hills intervenes 
 between it and the water, and intercepts the view. 
 Towards Aghadoe the hills are less varied, but they 
 command some beautiful prospects. There are seve- 
 ral gentlemen's seats in this direction. 
 
 Of all the hills upon the northern side of the lake, 
 the most elevated is that of Aghadoe, which appears 
 to have been a place of no small celebrity in past 
 ages. On its summit stand the remains of an abbey 
 church or cathedral,* and it still continues to give 
 title to a bishop. Amongst the Roman Catholics the 
 
 * In the view of the church of Mucruss abbey, the hill of Agha= 
 doe, in the distance, may be distinguished by its ruins, which are 
 conspicuous from every part of the lower lake. 
 
 4 
 
 V^ 
 
57 
 
 diocese is preserved distinct ; but in the established 
 church it ranks as a secondary one, attached to the 
 see of Limerick. So imperfect, however, is the state 
 of ecclesiastical records in Ireland, that of the history 
 of this place, if the account of it in the Monasticon 
 Hibernicum is to be credited, nothing more is known 
 than what can be collected from the following ex- 
 tract from the Annals of Innisfallen : — " Aodh son 
 of Conor, son of AulifF More, O'Donoghue king of 
 Eoganacht Loch-lein (the antient name of Killarney) 
 died in the year 1231, and was buried in his old ab- 
 bey of Aghadoe." The writer of these annals was a 
 monk of the abbey of Innisfallen, who flourished at 
 a period when the members of these religious com- 
 munities were prone to attach considerable import- 
 ance to the antiquity of their establishments. The 
 abbey of Innisfallen, to which he belonged, was 
 founded as early as the sixth century, yet he empha- 
 tically styles this the old abbey of Aghadoe ; a cir- 
 cumstance from which it may not unfairly be infer- 
 red, that its foundation was at least coeval with, per< 
 
 baps anterior to, that of Innisfallen, 
 
 ft 
 
 Of the habitable part of the building no vestiges 
 whatever remain ; but the walls of the church, on the 
 south side alone excepted, are in tolerable preserva- 
 tion. The rudeness of the architecture, and the nar- 
 rowness of the dimensions, do not indicate that the 
 wealth or splendour of the church, in this part of 
 
Ireland, was formerly very considerable. The whole 
 length of the building is but eighty feet, the breadth 
 twenty ; and this small area is divided into two parts 
 by a substantial wall without any apertures. The 
 windows, few in number, and in form not unlike the 
 loop-holes in an old castle, could only admit a faint 
 glimmering light. Gloominess, once esteemed so 
 favourable to devotion, and peculiarly congenial to 
 the superstitious notions of monkery, appears to have 
 been studied in the plans of the early churches of 
 Ireland still more than in those of Great Britain. At 
 Glendalough, in the county of Wicklow, there is a 
 small church covered with a roof of stone of great 
 antiquity, the interior of which is so dark that a book 
 could with difficulty be read in it at noon day. Many 
 others of the same description are to be met with. 
 
 The best executed part of this old building at 
 Aghadoe is the western door-case, which consists of 
 a carved Saxon arch, in excellent preservation ; it 
 differs only from that of the chapel of Innisf alien, re- 
 presented in the vignette on the title-page, in being 
 decorated with an embattled frieze, instead of one in 
 chevron work. These door-cases are both remarkable 
 for being formed of a red siliceous sandstone, inter- 
 spersed with large grains of white quartz ; a species 
 of stone not found, I believe, in any part of the neigh- 
 bourhood. Hence it is to be presumed that they 
 were procured already carved, or sent perhaps as a 
 
59 
 
 donation to the cathedral from some other part of 
 the kingdom where the art of sculpture was further 
 advanced. At least, this appears more probable than 
 that the stone should have been conveyed in its rude 
 state to the spot where it was to be finally employed ; 
 for although it is capable of being wrought with more 
 facility than either the common mountain stone, or 
 the marble found on the shores of the lake, this ad- 
 vantage would not have compensated for the labour 
 and expense of transporting it. Besides, the marble 
 of this neighbourhood is so much more beautiful, as 
 well as more durable, that an artist working on the 
 spot must have given it the preference. Its superior 
 hardness could scarcely have operated as an objec- 
 tion ; for, in an age when steel armour w^as in common 
 use, there could have been no difficulty in procuring 
 instruments capable of working it. 
 
 The hill of Aghadoe is regarded by the inhabitants 
 of the surrounding district as a spot of peculiar sanc- 
 tity; and the cemetery adjoining the church, like 
 that at Mucruss abbey, continues to be a favourite 
 place of burial. Though the soil is considerably deep- 
 er here than at the latter place, the eye is neverthe- 
 less assailed with a similar disagreeable spectacle of 
 mouldering bones and coffins, that have been dug up 
 in opening new graves. Well may it be described, 
 in the language of the poet,— 
 
60 
 
 ..,,,... a I place of tombs, 
 
 Waste, desolate, where Ruin dreary dwelb. 
 Brooding o'er sightless sculls and crumbling bones; 
 Ghastful he sits, and eyes with steadfast glare, 
 Sad trophies of his power, where ivy twines 
 Its fatal green around the failing roof; 
 The time-shook arch ; the column grey with moss ; 
 The leaning wall ; the sculptured stone defaced. 
 Whose monumental flattery, mix't with dust. 
 Now hides the name it vainly meant to raise. 
 
 A striking instance is exhibited at this place of a 
 superstitious prejudice, which I apprehend is observ- 
 able amongst persons even of a more enhghtened re- 
 ligious profession. Not a single grave appears to the 
 north of the cathedral, v/hilst, on the opposite side, 
 they extend to a considerable distance beyond the 
 precincts of the ancient cemetery, along the green 
 borders of the public road ^ but doubtless the ground 
 has received benediction, or the unhallowed spot 
 would be avoided with caution. How various and 
 inconsistent are the opinions of mankind on the sub- 
 ject of burial ! Here would it be deemed a derelic- 
 tion of duty to inter the deceased in any place but 
 that which has already received their forefathers; 
 though so many lay claim to the same scanty portion 
 of earth, that time is scarcely allowed for changing 
 dust to dust ; though the grave is liable to be dispos- 
 sessed of its dead, and the ashes of those who were 
 once held dear scattered before the winds of heaven. 
 How much more rational the custom of America aqd 
 
61 
 
 Switzerland, where a spot is commonly selected for 
 burial in a private garden, or in some place distin- 
 guished for its amenity and retirement : surely it 
 must be grateful to the heart, in the hour of sorrow, 
 to be enabled to visit the tomb of a beloved friend in 
 silence and in solitude, free from impertinent intru- 
 sion, free even from the unwelcome appearance of a 
 stranger.* 
 
 In the north-west corner of the church of Aghadoe, 
 there is a stone about seven feet in length, on which 
 Mr Pelham, not long since, discovered traces of what 
 are supposed to have been the Ogham, or sacred 
 mystical characters used by the ancient pagan Irish 
 priesthood. This species of writing, if waiting indeed 
 it is, may be ranked amongst the most simple, and 
 probably the most imperfect, of the various kinds 
 which have been transmitted to the knowledge of 
 modern times ; in fact, it differs but little from the 
 scores or marks which illiterate people commonly 
 make with a piece of chalk for the purpose of enu- 
 meration. Yet upon these rude strokes time has af- 
 fixed a value which is enhanced by the accounts that 
 
 * Du bon Helvetien qui ne connoit pas I'usage ? 
 Pres d'lm eau murmurante, au fond d*un vert bocage,,. 
 II place les tombeaux ; il les couvre des fleurs ; 
 Par leur douce culture, il charme ses douleurs ; 
 Et pense respirer, quand sa main les arrose, 
 L'ame de son ami, dans le parfum d'une rose. 
 
have been handed down of their mysterious import* 
 *' Notwithstanding frequent mention is made," says 
 General Vallancey, " in Irish manuscripts, of the use 
 of the Ogham character, and of certain monuments 
 in certain places, the incredulity of our modern an- 
 tiquaries was so great as to deny its existence, until 
 a person was paid by the late Mr Conyngham to 
 search upon a mountain, in the county of Clare, for 
 one of these monuments mentioned in an ancient 
 poem. The monument and inscription were at length 
 discovered, and published in the Transactions of the 
 Royal Irish Academy. After the discovery of this 
 monument, no Ogham inscriptions were heard of, un- 
 til Mr Pelham discovered fourteen of them, on as 
 many different stones, in the county of Kerry." Of 
 these stones and inscriptions, accurate engravings, 
 together with an account of their discovery, may be 
 seen in Collectanea de Rebus Hibernicis. The stone 
 of Aghadoe is amongst the number. Mr Pelham is 
 of opinion that it was once much longer, and stood 
 erect, as at one end it bears marks of having been 
 broken, and seems to have been thrown down by 
 violence into its present situation. He thinks also 
 that the inscription is imperfect, as there is an ap- 
 pearance of a scale of the stone having come off at 
 the present termination. The characters, near the 
 middle of the stone, are three and a half inches long. 
 The ancient Irish erected pillars of stone on many 
 
63 
 
 occasions : " Some were inscribed (says General Val- 
 lancey*) with Ogham characters, to mark the cycles ;t 
 others were Phalli, such as we are told the brahmins 
 erected on the boundaries of districts, on the high 
 ways, and in the temples, as symbols of the vivifying 
 spirit." At Ballysteeny, in Kerry, Mr Pelham disco- 
 vered a prepared rounded stone, tapering towards 
 the top, with an Ogham inscription, which the gene- 
 ral, without hesitation, pronounces to be the Muidhr, 
 Phallus, or Lingam of the Hindoos. This stone ap- 
 pears to have been originally about eight feet in 
 length, and to have been broken by a fire that was 
 made against it : part of it still continues in an up- 
 right position. 
 
 A few yards from the western end of the church 
 of Aghadoe, the remains are to be seen of one of 
 those slender round towers, whose original destina- 
 tion, notwithstanding the laboured and ingenious re- 
 searches of the numerous antiquarians who have di- 
 rected their attention to the subject, is still involved 
 in almost impenetrable obscurity. Sixty-four of these 
 fabrics have been discovered in different parts of Ire- 
 land, of various heights, the tallest measuring no less 
 
 * Coll. de Reb. Hib. vol. vi. page 176. 
 
 t As the Ogham character was a mysterious one, whose import 
 was known only to the priesthood, and which no person at the pre- 
 sent day pretends to decypher, it seems somewhat bold to assert 
 that they marked the cycles. 
 
64f 
 
 than one hundred and thirty-seven feet : their diame-» 
 ters are from twelve to nineteen, and the thickness 
 of the walls, in general, between three and four feet ; 
 when the height of the tower is unusually great, it 
 increases to a few inches more. Many of them are 
 built of hewn stone, and those that remain entire are 
 crowned with a conical cap of the same materials. 
 The entrance is by a small door, generally situated 
 considerably above the foundation ; in some instan- 
 ces at the apparently inconvenient height of twenty- 
 four feet: but at Swords, in the neighbourhood of 
 Dublin, and at Cluanmacnose, in the King's county, 
 there are towers which have the entrance on a level 
 with the ground. Various small apertures are ob- 
 servable at different elevations above the doors, and 
 at different sides of the building, which were pro- 
 bably made for the purpose of affording light to the 
 stories into which the tower was divided, or to the 
 stairs or flights of steps which conducted to the up- 
 per apartment. The latter was lighted by four large 
 windows placed opposite to the cardinal points. 
 Some persons, however, notwithstanding these ap- 
 pearances, contend that they were never divided into 
 stories, but always left open from top to bottom, as 
 they are at present. 
 
 At a distance, several of these towers have the ap- 
 pearance of colossal pillars, and in certain positions 
 they produce a most striking effect. Were I to single 
 
65 
 
 out any one as more particularly calculated to im- 
 press the mind of a person who beholds it for the 
 first time, it would be that at Glendalough, the Glen 
 of the two lakeSy in the county of Wicklow. This 
 tower is situated near the ruins of some old churches, 
 on the banks of a lake, in a deep and soHtary valley, 
 surrounded by lofty mountains. The prospect of it 
 opens very suddenly at a bend of the road ; and if a 
 stranger has not been prepared for the sight by a pre- 
 vious description, he may be almost tempted to be- 
 lieve that what he sees is the illusion of his fancy, so 
 extraordinary does it appear to meet with a stately 
 column in such a wild and desolate situation. The 
 tower of Aghadoe was constructed with hewn stone ; 
 but, exposed during the lapse of ages, on the summit 
 of a lofty hill, to the influence of the elements, it has 
 yielded to the shocks of time, and at present is in a 
 very perishable state. Its shattered remains are not 
 more than fifteen feet in height. 
 
 In different parts of the w^ork entitled Collectanea 
 de Rebus Hibernicis, and in Dr Ledwich's Essays on 
 the Antiquities of Ireland, a minute description may 
 be found of these towers, together with disquisitions 
 on the probable purpose for which they were erected. 
 Various opinions have been entertained on this sub- 
 ject, and each one has been warmly defended. It 
 has been severally supposed that they were employed 
 as beacons or watch-towers 5 as places of punislnnent 
 
6^- 
 
 for those wlio had sinned against the ordinances of 
 the early Christian church ; as the habitations of the 
 anchorite monks, called Pillar Saints ; as stations 
 from which the priest, by his voice, or the sound of 
 some instrument, summoned the people to prayer ; 
 or, which is the opinion most generally received, as 
 belfries. To mention the numerous arguments which 
 have been adduced in support of each of these sup- 
 positions, would be alike tedious and unnecessary, 
 since common observation is sufficient to refute most 
 of them* 
 
 It is evident, for instance, that lofty towers, in- 
 tended only for the communication of signals, would 
 neither have been erected at the bottom of deep val- 
 leys, nor on the summit of very high hills : in the 
 one position they would have been concealed by the 
 surrounding heights, in the other, their additional 
 elevation could have contributed but little to the 
 purpose of the institution. 
 
 Equally inconsistent is it with probability to ima- 
 gine they were designed as places of punishment ; 
 where the criminal, contrary to all analogy, contrary 
 to the usage of every nation both ancient and mo- 
 dern, was exalted to the most airy and agreeable 
 apartment of the prison, instead of being precipitated 
 into the depths of a dungeon. Their contracted di- 
 mension, moreover, militates very strongly against 
 this supposition. 
 
67 
 
 When the mind of man falls a prey to fanaticism, 
 his notions become so absurd, and his practices so 
 extravagant and capricious, that we read, without 
 surprise, in the early history, of the church, of asce- 
 tics who fixed their abode on the summit of lofty 
 pillars ; but the pillar on which Simon Stylites per- 
 formed the extraordinary penances which gave cele- 
 brity to his name was not hollow ; it is distinctly 
 stated that he stood on a small platform, on the sum- 
 mit, exposed to the weather, the vicissitudes and se* 
 verity of which he patiently endured for thirty years.* 
 His imitators, who obtained the name of pillar saints^ 
 in relaxing their penances, might have provided some 
 sort of shelter, but there is no positive testimony to 
 the fact ; and it seems highly improbable that edifices, 
 so costly as these towers, should have been erected 
 for the mere purpose of enabling a solitary fanatic to 
 realize his wild projects of self-mortification. 
 
 Dr Ledwich himself appears quite satisfied that the 
 towers were erected for belfries ; andj in support of 
 this opinion, he states that they are always found in 
 the vicinity of churches, and generally next to that 
 end which was afterwards allotted to the steeple ;-— 
 that in many instances, in Ireland as w^ell as Great 
 Britain, the steeple stood apart ; — and that, after it 
 became the practice to unite' it v/ith the church, tlie 
 
 * Gibbon, chap. 37. 
 
6« 
 
 it)und toners were connected in the same fliannef as 
 square steeples, — examples of which are to be seen in 
 two of the ruined churches at Glendalough. Now^ 
 as to these round steeples, they are certainly built 
 very like the solitary towers, and are similarly termi- 
 nated with a conical stone cap ; but their circumfe- 
 rence is much more contracted, — their height incon- 
 siderable, — they are erected on a single broad arch, 
 and, to me, evidently appear an imitation of the an- 
 cient fabrics. ^ 
 
 It cannot admit of a doubt, however, that many of 
 these towers were at some period used as belfries ; 
 but, taking this for granted, it by no means follows 
 that they were originally constructed for that pur- 
 pose* If so, why should the doors have been placed 
 at such an inconvenient height as to render the as- 
 sistance of a long ladder necessary to get into them ? 
 This one question appears to carry with it insuper- 
 able objections to the supposition of their being built 
 expressly for belfries ; but if, at the time when large 
 bells were first introduced into Ireland, the towers- 
 had been standing, it is very probable that the inha- 
 bitants would have employed them for that purpose. 
 Instead of building such square steeples as were com- 
 mon in the neighbouring countries. 
 
 In the midst of these difficulties, the conjecture of 
 General Vallancey, the ingenious editor of Collecta- 
 nea de Rebus Hibernicis, ofiers itself to our notice j- 
 
€9 
 
 and though, in common with the preceding theories, 
 it is liable to several objections, and cannot be con- 
 sidered as absolutely conclusive, yet it appears to me 
 to be entitled to a far more respectful attention than 
 any one which has been hitherto advanced. After 
 having been at considerable pains to prove the early 
 establishment of an oriental colony in Ireland, from 
 the conformity of its language* and the resemblance 
 of its mythology to those of countries in the east, he 
 concludes that these towers were built, for the display 
 of the sacred fires, which were kept burning in ho- 
 nour of the pagan deities, " The pagan Irish," says 
 he, " worshipped Crom Cruait, the same god Zoro^ 
 aster adored in fire, first on mountain tops, then in 
 
 * I had not been a week landed in Ireland from Gibraltar, where 
 I had studied Hebrew and Chaldaic, under Jews of various countries 
 and denominations, when I heard a peasant girl say to a boor stand- 
 ing by, " Feach an maddinag.'* Behold the morning star: the mad- 
 dina-nag of the Chaldeans, — J3 DOIO Maiddinag, the morning star 
 (Shaw.) 
 
 Shortly afterwards, being benighted with a party, in the moun^ 
 tains of the western parts of the county of Cork, we lost the path, 
 when an aged cottager undertook to be our guide. It was a fine 
 starry night. In our way, the peasant, pointing to the constellation 
 Orion, said, that was Caomai, or the armed Icing, and he described 
 the three upright stars to be his spear or sceptre, and the three ho- 
 rizontal stars to be his sword-belt. I could not doubt their being 
 the Cimah of Job, which the learned Costard asserts to be the con- 
 stellation Orion. JIDD Caomai, an armed man (Shaw.) Arabic, 
 Kami, armed. The reader, from this circumstance, may judge with 
 what eagerness I was impelled to study the Irish language, — Collect^ 
 de Relf. Hib, vol, VI. p, 315. 
 
70 
 
 caves, and afterwards in towers.* He adds the fol- 
 lowing passage from Prideaux : — ' ' The Persians first 
 made the holy fires on the tops of hills ; but Zoroas- 
 ter, finding that these fires in the open air were often 
 extinguished by rain, tempests, or storms, directed 
 that fire4owers should be built, that they might the 
 better be preserved/* It is scarcely possible to con^ 
 ceive buildings more suitable for the purpose than 
 the Irish round towers 5 and if any mystery had been 
 observed in supplying them with fuel, which may be 
 readily imagined, the elevated position of the door 
 was well calculated to exclude the prying eye of cu* 
 riosity, and conceal what was doing within. 
 
 The following observation of General Vallancey 
 upon Mr Pelham's account of the Ogham inscription, 
 is entitled to peculiar attention : " Jgh^ signifies j^r^, 
 and also the word doigh^ pronounced doe. I think 
 there must have formerly been here either a fire-tower, 
 or an altar, dedicated to the fire of fires — the sun."t 
 The commanding and conspicuous situation of the 
 hill of Aghadoe would have justly entitled it to that 
 
 * Collect, de Reb. Hib. vol. VI. page 122. 
 
 f I have every reason to believe that General Vallancey was to- 
 tally unacquainted with the circumstance of the remains of a round 
 tower being still visible at Aghadoe, until I had the pleasure of in-? 
 forming him of it, some time after his remarks on the Ogham in- 
 scription were published. Aghadoe is mentioned in some lists of 
 the places where towers stood, and omitted in others : It was very 
 possible, therefore, that it might have escaped his notice. 
 
name, had a sacred fire been maintained on its sum- 
 mit. 
 
 The arguments which have been adduced to prove 
 that no stone buildings but such as were of the most 
 humble and rude description, existed in Ireland be- 
 fore the arrival of the Danes, and that these towers 
 must therefore have been erected subsequent to that 
 period, appear far from conclusive. That the Irish, 
 at a very remote period, were in possession of the se- 
 cret of smelting and working various metals, is un- 
 questionable ;* and it may well be supposed, that the 
 same people who made them acquainted with these 
 important and valuable arts, also instructed them in 
 that of masonry, though they might never have availed 
 themselves of their knowledge, excepting in the con- 
 struction of the sacred towers. We are told of many 
 large cities in the east where no buildings are allowed 
 of stone or brick but those which are appropriated to 
 the chief magistracy, or set apart for the uses of re- 
 ligion : and in countries which abound with wood, as 
 Ireland did formerly, and America does now, buildi- 
 ings of that material are commonly preferred for the 
 purposes of domestic life, on account of their cheap- 
 ness and their supposed warmth. To infer from that 
 
 * See the many descriptions in Coll. de Reb. Hib. of rings of gol(J, 
 anklets, crowns, &c. ; and particularly of the instruments found in 
 the bog of Culien, under two successive strata of bog, trees and 
 
*72 
 
 passage of Bede, wherein he relates that the cathe-? 
 dral of Lindisfarne, or Holy island, was built in the 
 year 652, more Scotorum^ after the manner of the 
 Scots or Irish, with wood, and covered with reeds,— * 
 that none but wooden buildings were known in Ire^ 
 land at that period, is as absurd as it would be to 
 conclude that no stone buildings are now to be found 
 in America, because a house has been erected in 
 England after the American manner, with logs of 
 w^ood, and covered with shingles. 
 
 As to the remark, that these round towers are aU 
 ways situated near churches, it might be stated, con- 
 versely, perhaps with as much propriety, that the 
 churches are built contiguous to the towers. It is 
 w^U known that the earlv Christian missionaries were 
 content, in many instances, to accommodate their 
 worship to that of their pagan proselytes ; either be^ 
 cause it was impracticable to eradicate every trace of 
 idolatry, or because they found by experience that 
 the great work of conversion was likely to be more 
 effectually promoted by yielding, in some degree, to 
 habitual prejudice, than by insisting on a total dere- 
 liction of opinions supported by the sanction of ages. 
 Hence many of the heathen temples, and places con- 
 secrated to their gods, were eagerly appropriated to 
 Christian worship. Enthusiasm was kept alive by in- 
 dulging a veneration for objects which had been long 
 held sacred j and the people were gradually induced 
 
73 
 
 to transfer their adoration to the true Deity. In Ire* 
 Jand, it maybe presumed that churches were erected 
 in the vicinity of the fire-towers, in the places dedi* 
 cated to the sun ; and, when a suitable occasion of- 
 fered, by the introduction of bells, for rendering 
 these stately relics of the ancient superstition subser*. 
 vient to the uses of Christian worship, it would gladly 
 have been seized, — just as the statue of Jupiter Capi- 
 tolinus at Rome, a key having been substituted for 
 the thunder-bolt, and a glory added to the head, was 
 brought forward to the superstitious multitude, as an 
 exact representation of the holy apostle Saint Peter. 
 Sir Richard Colt Hoare, whose authority I adduce 
 w4th deference, inclines to the opinion of these towers 
 being Christian edifices, and built about the ninth 
 century;* and he thinks that the figure of Christ 
 upon the cross, sculptured upon the key stone over 
 the door of the tower at Denoughmore, decidedly 
 proves that they were not of pagan origin. But 
 might not this stone have been sculptured after it 
 w^as placed in the wall ? And even admitting that 
 some of the towers were built in Christian times, it 
 by no means follows that none of them were erected 
 previous to that period. The round steeples attached 
 to the stone-roofed churches at Glendalough, appear 
 to me to be of a date posterior to that of some of the 
 
 * Tour in Ireland. Round Towers. 
 
solitaiy towers ; and if the form was so much admi- 
 red as to be used for steeples in these instances, it 
 seems by no means improbable that single towers of 
 greater height and superior workmanship to the ori- 
 ginal structures might have been built at a subse- 
 quent aera. 
 
 The earliest writer who takes notice of these singu- 
 lar edifices is Giraldus Cambrensis, who wrote about 
 the year 1185. He expressly calls them ecclesiastical 
 towers ; and Dr Ledwich* endeavours to prove, from 
 the grammatical construction of the passage, that 
 Giraldus might have seen the Irish in the very act of 
 building them. " It was a singular and striking 
 spectacle,^' says Dr Ledwich, " for our author to be- 
 hold so great a number of these towers dispersed 
 over the country, all of the same figure and fashion, 
 contiguous to wooden churches, and supporting bells 
 to summon the vicinity to religious duties, or to warn 
 them of approaching danger. Surely it must be 
 esteemed a gross perversion of common sense, to ex- 
 tract from Cambrensis' plain words any other mean- 
 ing than that now given. He was fully competent 
 to deliver a simple fact \ nor did the objects he was 
 describing require the microscopic eyes of some mo- 
 dern antiquarians.'* Now Giraldus says not one word 
 either of w^ooden churches or of bells, or of religious 
 
 . * Essays pn Irish Antiquities, 
 
75 
 
 duties, or of dangers ; and whoever will read the ori- 
 ginal passage, must be persuaded that Dr Ledwich 
 lias indulged his fancy to no small extent upon this 
 occasion. It occurs in his chapter concerning a great 
 laJie xchich had a xvonderful origin^* wherein a mar- 
 vellous traditional story is related of a very wicked 
 race of people having been swept away by a flood, 
 and the country which they inhabited converted into 
 a lake, (at present known by the name of Lough 
 
 * Topograpbia Hibern. 2 Hb. cap. ix. 
 
 Est Jacus in ultonia mirae magnitudinis triginta mill. pass, in Ion- 
 gum et quindecim in latum habens. Ex quo eximiae pulcbritudinis 
 qui et Banna vocatur flurius erumpit, et in Borealem oceanum se trans- 
 
 fundit,^ Huic vero lacui, mirabiles ut aiunt casus initium dedit. 
 
 Fuit in terra ilia, quam nunc lacus obtinet, gens ab antiquissimis tem- 
 
 poribus, vitiosissima. Fuerat autem in ore populi, verbum ce- 
 
 lebre, quod quam cito fons quidam terras illius (qui exreverentiade 
 barbara superstitione sibi exhibita operculum habebat et signaculum) 
 discopertus relinqueretur, tanta statim inundatione fons exuberaret, 
 ut litam provinciam illam et gentem simul diluerat et deleret. 
 
 Contiget autem aliquando mulierculam quandam bauriendi causa 
 ad foptem accessisse quae, vaso impleto, nee dum fonte signato ad 
 parvulam suum, quem tamen non procul inde positum plorantem, 
 audivit, commota mater ejus cujus occurrit, et quia vox populi vox 
 Dei maturans reditum tanta scaturigine fontem exuberantem oflPen- 
 dit, ut et ipsam statim cum puero totamque gentem illam et pecora 
 tanquam diluvio quodam particulari seu provinciali in bora submer- 
 git. Cumque totam terrae illius faciem aquarum jam velaret uber* 
 tas stabilis permanens stagnum fecit. 
 
 Hujiis autem eventus argumentum est non improhahilcy quodpisca- 
 fores aqiice illius turres ecclesiasticas quae more patriae arctcB sunt et 
 altcB nee non et rolundce sub undis manifeste sereno tempore conspicif 
 unt s et extraneis transeuntihus reique causas admirantibusjrequenter 
 ostendunt. 
 
7(5 
 
 Neagh :) " And this story,'* says Giraldus, «^ seems 
 not improbable, because the fishermen of that lake, 
 in serene weather, can distinctly see, beneath the wa- 
 ter, ecclesiastical towers, which, after the manner of 
 the country, are built round, lofty, and narrow ; and 
 they frequently point them out to strangers when 
 crossing the lake, who wonder at the cause of this 
 circumstance." 
 
 The obvious inference from this passage is, that 
 even in the days of Giraldus these towers were con- 
 sidered as objects of great antiquity, and not that he 
 saw them building : had they been all notoriously of 
 recent construction, the argument drawn in favour of 
 the truth of the tradition, from the supposed appear* 
 ance of towers at the bottom of the lake, would have 
 been absurd. 
 
 At whatever period these extraordinary fabrics 
 were erected, the question is still extremely interest, 
 ing, whether the plan was of original Irish or of fo- 
 reign invention. No traces of such works have been 
 discovered, it is said, in any other part of Europe, 
 excepting in two instances in Scotland, in the counties 
 of Angus and of Murray ; and these towers differ in 
 several respects from the Irish ones. The conjecture 
 that they are of eastern origin, has received a very 
 strong corroboration of late from the testimony of 
 Lord Valentia, published in his Travels through In* 
 dia. In describing the town of ]Bhaugulpore, his 
 
77 
 
 lordship says, — " I was much pleased with the sight 
 of two very singular round towers about a mile north- 
 west of the town. They much resemble those build-* 
 ings in Ireland which have hitherto puzzled the anti- 
 quaries of the sister kingdom, excepting that they 
 are more ornamented. It is singular that there is no 
 tradition concerning them, nor are they held in any 
 respect by the Hindoos of this country. The Rajah 
 of Jyenaghur considers them as holy, and has erected 
 a small building to shelter the great number of his 
 subjects who annually come to worship." A view of 
 these towers, by Mr Salt, is given in his lordship's 
 Travels ; the resemblance to those of Ireland in the 
 elevated position of the door, the stone roof, and the 
 four large windows at the summit, is very remarkable# 
 At a short distance from the cathedral of Aghadoe, 
 towards the south-west, the ruins of a second tower, 
 very different, however, from the former one, are ob- 
 servable. The country people give it the name of 
 the pulpit ; but from what cause I could not learn. 
 From being situated in the centre of a square area, 
 defended by a ditch and rampart, it appears to have 
 been once a place of strength. At two of the sides 
 the ramparts are doubled, and there are traces of 
 bastions at the angles. The height of the tower is 
 about thirty feet ; its diameter twenty-one feet ; and 
 the thickness of the walls at the base seven feet. It 
 was divided into three stories, in the first of which 
 
1a 
 
 there was a fire-place ; the chimney belonging to ifc 
 is carried up through the battlements, and is still en* 
 tire. There was also a large window in this story 
 opening to the south, and two small ones in opposite 
 directions. The door-case is much dilapidated* To 
 the left of it, between a double wall, appears a stair- 
 case which conducts to the first story ; beyond that, 
 the ascent was continued by a flight of stones, fast* 
 ened at one end into the v^^all, a few only of which 
 now remain. 
 
 There are some other remains of the works of an* 
 cient times on the hills that arise behind the flat, 
 which contribute to show that this neighbourhood 
 was formerly much distinguished. They should on 
 no account be left unnoticed, as the beauty of the 
 surrounding scenery will amply compensate those 
 who do not derive gratification from examining mere 
 antiquities. The most remarkable of these remains 
 is a circle formed of seven large stones, placed in the 
 ground in an upright position, and enclosed within a 
 circular mound of earth. The inner circle is fourteen 
 feet in diameter ; the outer one seventy-two. Sixty 
 feet from the latter, towards the south, two large up- 
 right stones appear, very near each other ; the tallest 
 of which is about eleven feet in height, measuring 
 from the surface of the ground, and eighteen in cir- 
 cumference : they lie nearly east and west, the larg-. 
 er one being towards the east. 
 
to 
 
 The similarity of this circle, and the still more 
 striking similarity of several larger circles, that have 
 been discovered in other parts of Ireland, to some of 
 the druidical remains in the isle of Anglesea, afford 
 strong grounds for believing that they were con- 
 structed by the same order of men** But notwith- 
 standing this circumstance, as well as the exact re- 
 semblance of the cromlechs in Ireland to those found 
 in Anglesea, which are generally admitted to be the 
 work of the druids, it is maintained by several writers 
 on Irish antiquities, that the druids were unknown 
 in Ireland 5 and these stone circles are attributed to 
 the votaries of Budth, the Phoebus or Apollo of the 
 Irish, who, like Vishnou, the Apollo of the brahmins, 
 is supposed to have undergone nine incarnations: 
 hence the nine stones of which the circles are found 
 most commonly to be composed. The number in 
 other instances is supposed to have been indicative 
 of the cycles, or emblematical of the heavenly bodies. 
 In this temple the two larger stones might have re- 
 presented the sun and moon, which were both ob-= 
 jects of adoration ; and the seven smaller stones in 
 the circle, the remainder of the planetary system. 
 By others, however, it is asserted that these circles 
 
 * Bryn Gwyn, or the druids' church, in the isle of Anglesea, con- 
 sisted of a circle fifty -two yards in diameter, formed of stones four 
 feet high ; and at a short distance from the circle stood two upright 
 stones twelve feet high. 
 
so 
 
 were not formed for religious purposes, but were pla- 
 ces set apart for the inauguration of the ancient kings 
 of the country, or for the promulgation of the laws : 
 and these contradictory opinions are alike defended 
 with pertinacity, although unsupported by testimony. 
 We may, on these occasions, indulge conjectures 
 amusing to the theorist ; but I fear we can form no 
 conclusion likely to be at all beneficial to the historian,. 
 
 This circle stands in the corner of a field, at the 
 distance of somewhat less than half a mile from the 
 turnpike, on the Cork road. I came to it by accident, 
 and I could not learn that it had attracted the notice 
 of any of the neighbouring inhabitants. It may rea- 
 dily be found by ascending the wooded heights bor- 
 dering upon the river on the left hand, immediately 
 after passing the broken bridge near the turnpike. 
 
 On the hills to the east of the river Mesk, two for- 
 tifications of remote antiquity also claim attention. 
 .They are situated on that side of the river which lies 
 nearest to Castle lough, and may be readily approach- 
 ed by following the road which commences near the 
 bridge. The first of them is of a circular form, in 
 diameter about thirty yards, surrounded with a fosse 
 and rampart. On the south side of the area there is 
 an oblong pit faced with stone, at the bottom of 
 each end of which a small hole, scarcely sufficient to 
 admit a man on his hands and knees, is observable. 
 I was informed, by the proprietor of the place, that 
 
81 
 
 these holfes are the entrances of very extensive sub- 
 terranean passages, into which people have proceeded 
 a considerable distance with lights ; but at present 
 the way is choked with rubbish. In some respects 
 this fort resembles the raths, or Danish forts, so com- 
 mon in every part of Ireland ; but it is neither so 
 much elevated by art as they are, nor is it placed in 
 such a conjmanding natural situation. 
 
 The second one is about a quarter of a mile dis* 
 taut ; it may be enumerated amongst 
 
 Our forts on »teepy hills, that, far below. 
 See wanton streams in winding vallejs flow. 
 
 It very much resembles those of Roman construc- 
 tion which are commonly seen in England, and con- 
 sists of a square of about forty yards, whose sides 
 nearly correspond with the cardinal points ; the ram- 
 parts and ditch are tolerably perfect. Here the river 
 Flesk may be traced in all its windings through a 
 valley ten miles in length, up to the hill on which 
 the fort stands ; at the base of which it makes a bold 
 sweep, and, after passing a bridge of nineteen arches, 
 is seen at a distance gliding peaceably into the lake. 
 
 This fort seems to have been erected for the pro- 
 tection of the entrance into the valley, which there 
 is reason to believe, from the ruined castles observ- 
 able in different parts of it, was formerly a pass of 
 
 F 
 
82 
 
 great consequence : it is said that the road from Kil- 
 larney to Cork once passed through it. 
 
 Amidst the varied prospects which these hills af- 
 ford, that from the summit of Aghadoe has been 
 pointed out by Dr Smith, in his History of Kerry, as 
 one of the most beautiful, and subsequent writers 
 have been content to follow his description. From 
 this position there is, indeed, a very distinct view of 
 the limits of the lake ; but, instead of a fine picture, 
 the spectator is presented as it were with a map of 
 the country : the picturesque beauty of the scenery 
 vanishes before you ascend one third of the hill. , 
 
 The most pleasing views from Aghadoe are found 
 in the vicinity of a road which runs along its base at 
 a short distance from the lake, leading from the town 
 of Killarney to the river Laune. As for the hill it- 
 self, occupied by small fields divided by stone fences 
 and banks of arid earth, without a tree, and almost 
 without a bush for miles, it afibrds nothing interest- 
 ing in a picturesque point of view. The bleakness of 
 this tract is, however, forgotten in a great measure, 
 whilst the eye is engaged in examining the distant 
 landscape j and even if it should be observed and 
 should offend, like discords that are introduced in 
 music to increase the sweetness of the returning har- 
 mony, it will serve to give additional value to the 
 wooded scenes which appear once more on the banks 
 of the river Laune. Here Grenagh, the seat of Ma- 
 
83 
 
 jor Bland, situated on the near bank of the river, at- 
 the head of a sloping lawn adorned by numerous fine 
 trees, and commanding an extensive view of the lake 
 towards Mucruss, attracts the attention ; and, on the 
 opposite side, Dunloh castle and the country around 
 it will amply repay those who take delight in rural 
 variety for the pains of crossing the river at the bridge, 
 which lies about half a mile lower down the stream. 
 
 Dunloh castle seems to have been erected for the 
 double purpose of guarding the river and a defile in 
 the great chain of mountains. It stands on the sum- 
 mit of a small conical hill, whose apex has been cut 
 down to afford a more convenient space for the build- 
 ing ; and from its position it must, before the use of 
 artillery, have been a place of great strength. In the 
 wars of the Earl of Desmond, during the reigns of 
 Henry the Eighth and Queen Elizabeth, it suffered 
 considerably ; but it was rebuilt about the period of 
 Sir George Carew's administration in Munster. In 
 after times, when the parliamentary forces came into 
 this country, it was again attacked, and a great part 
 of it demolished by a bombardment. A solitary square 
 tower, which originally constituted but a small pro- 
 portion of the fabric, still remains entire, and has 
 been converted into a dwelling-house, ingeniously 
 planned, which affords more room and convenience 
 than could be expected from the exterior aspect. 
 This castle is the property of Major Mahony. The 
 
84 
 
 hill on which it stands is thickly covered with trees, 
 so that no part of the lake, or of the surrounding 
 country, is seen from the area or platform in front of 
 the castle, and a very confined view alone opens from 
 its windows ; but from its battlements there is a full 
 prospect of the lake, and of the river Laune in all its 
 windings. The view of this place, taken from the 
 banks of the riyer, discovers, in the distance, the de- 
 file already mentioned, known by the name of Dun- 
 loh gap. 
 
 Amidst the vast mountainous region on the west- 
 ern side of the county of Kerry, there is no scene 
 which exhibits a more varied and sublime combina- 
 tion of the boldest features of uncultivated nature 
 than the gap of Dunloh. By some terrific and mighty 
 operation, the chain of mountains at this place seems 
 to have been abruptly severed, and the stupendous 
 rocks of which it was formed, rent asunder, and dis- 
 persed in wild disorder through the chasm. On the 
 brow of the mountain which guards the entrance on 
 the right hand, immense projecting masses of stone, 
 suspended in their lofty beds, overhang the pass, 
 threatening destruction to all who approach this sa- 
 vage solitude ; and the vast fractured stones which 
 are observable at the base of the cliff, plainly indicate 
 that the danger has not always been imaginary. One 
 almost shudders at thinking of the horrible crash which 
 must have been produced by these ponderous stones. 
 
8; 
 
 Tumbling all precipitate clown dashed, 
 Rattling around, loud thundering to the moon, 
 
 whilst the echoes, in the still retirement, repeated the 
 tremendous sound through the windings of the vale. 
 A clear stream at the bottom of the defile winds 
 amongst the rocks, 
 
 now rapid, and now slow ; 
 
 Now murmuring soft, now roaring in cascades. 
 
 This stream forms a communication between a chain 
 of small lakes, some of which are very deep, but 
 others seem only to be a dilatation of the stream, 
 where it has been obstructed in its course, by the ac- 
 cumulated ruins of the impending precipice* 
 
 To open a communication between the country in 
 the vicinity of the river Laune and that bordering 
 upon Kenmare river, a road has lately been cut 
 through this defile, under the direction of Major 
 Mahony ; in the conduct of which he has shown 
 great taste and judgment. In some places it passes 
 along the edge of precipices where the way has been 
 with great difficulty cut through the solid stone ; in 
 Others, between immense detached rocks which have 
 fallen from the mountain, and which are just suffi- 
 ciently separated from each other to admit a single 
 carriage, thus affording a natural passage that could 
 hot have been opened elsewhere without prodigious 
 labour and expense. Where the obstacles on one 
 
S6 
 
 side of the defile could not be surmounted, the road 
 has been carried to the other, traversing the stream 
 over bridges of solid construction and not inelegant 
 form. One of these, situated at the head of a cas- 
 cade, and resting at each end on a single stone, has 
 a most romantic appearance. The length of the de- 
 file is three miles ; and at the termination of it a 
 view is discovered of the upper lake, which may be 
 readily approached on foot in this direction. The 
 new road is not yet adapted to carriages, owing to 
 the narrowness of the passes in some places, and the 
 steepness and ruggedness of the rocks in others : it 
 was made chiefly for the use of the mountaineers, 
 who invariably transport their butter and other ar- 
 ticles of rural commerce on horses. Great advan- 
 tages can already be perceived from opening this 
 communication ; and when the country becomes rich- 
 er, and can sustain the additional expense, it is intend- 
 ed to widen the road, and to render it commodious in 
 every respect. 
 
 No very striking features distinguish the tract 
 which lies between Dunloh castle and the mountains, 
 on the border of the lake ; it is divided for the most 
 part into fields, and there are few trees, except what 
 grow in the hedge-rows. The rising grounds, in- 
 deed, command prospects of the lake ; but they are 
 very much inferior to those which open from Mu- 
 cruss on the opposite shore. 
 
87 
 
 The ancient family seat of Macarthy-wzor^, or the 
 great, stood here ; and its remains may still be seen 
 near a small grove not far from the water side. This 
 chief, to acquire a more secure title to his extensive 
 possessions, in those times of anarchy and confisca- 
 tion, surrendered them to Queen Elizabeth, who im- 
 mediately afterwards re-conveyed them to him by 
 letters patent, and created him Earl of Glencar. 
 
 To the south of Dunloh castle there are no roads, 
 except such narrow passes as are made for the con- 
 venience of the farmers who live at the foot of the 
 mountains ; but a good w^alker might proceed along 
 the mountain-shore, and entirely round the three 
 lakes, unless when the rivers are swollen by rains ; at 
 which time many of them are impassable. This route 
 however is full of difficulties, and should on no ac- 
 count be attempted by any but the vigorous and ac- 
 tive ; for a whole day is scarcely sufficient to accom- 
 plish it, and woe to the benighted wanderer in this 
 wild and uninhabited district ! 
 
88 
 
 SECTION II. 
 
 Having thus taken a survey of the shores of the lower 
 lake, from Mucruss, at the foot of Turk mountain, to 
 the gap of Dunloh, and pointed out those obje^cts 
 which appeared to me best deserving of notice, I 
 shall next endeavour to direct the attention to those 
 parts of the scenery which are seen to most advan- 
 tage in the course of an excursion on the water. 
 
 The common place of embarkation for strangers 
 who sojourn in the town is at the head of Ross bay, 
 at a quay under the walls of the castle, this being the 
 nearest part of the lake to which there is a communis 
 cation by a carriage road. Persons who prefer walk- 
 ing will, however, find a much more agreeable route 
 than the high road, and not much longer, through 
 Lord Kenmare's grounds, along the banks of the ri- 
 ver Deanagh ; but the propriety of taking boat near 
 the mouth of this river depends upon the course that 
 it is intended afterwards to pursue, upon the state of 
 the wind, and also upon that of the lake ; for, in dry 
 weather, the water is sometimes so low as not to ad- 
 
89 
 
 mit a boat to approach within many yards of the 
 shore. 
 
 From the town to the castle of Ross the distance is 
 about an EngHsh mile and a half The road runs 
 along a flat, and, as it affords little to gratify the eye 
 of one who is anticipating the pleasures of arriving at 
 the lake, it invariably appears tedious and uninterest- 
 ing. Indeed few strangers visit Killarney without 
 having occasion to lament that there is no public 
 place of accommodation in the immediate vicinity of 
 the lake. Much time is always lost in passing and 
 repassing this road, and considerable inconvenience 
 is often experienced in getting back to the town at 
 night, after the fatigues of a day spent upon the wa- 
 ter. Horses, carriages, and attendants, that wait the 
 precarious return of a party, are sometimes necessa- 
 rily detained many hours, during which they are com- 
 monly obHged to remain on the open beach exposed 
 to all the casualties of this uncertain climate. If a 
 spacious and well-regulated inn were established on 
 the borders of the lake, and there are many excellent 
 situations for one, it could not fail to remunerate the 
 proprietor. 
 
 Strangers are very liberally accommodated with 
 the use of Lord Kenmare's boats, which are hand- 
 some and commodious. To the superintendant of 
 them, who either acts himself, or substitutes a person 
 properly qualified, as guide, a small gratuity is given : 
 
90 
 
 the boatmen have an established hire of one English 
 shilling each, if they are not ordered beyond the li- 
 mits of the lower lake ; if they go further, they re- 
 ceive half as much more. It is usual to allow them 
 refreshments if they are kept out the whole day ; an 
 indulgence that is too frequently abused by their 
 drinking to excess, to which they are addicted, in 
 common with most of their countrymen in the same 
 rank of life. When any of them unfortunately be- 
 come intoxicated, and no precaution will always be 
 effectual to preserve sobriety, disorder seldom fails to 
 ensue, attended at least with inconvenience, and 
 sometimes even with danger, to the party. In this, 
 as in most other mountainous regions, storms are fre- 
 quent ; and when the lake is exposed to their fury, 
 its waves become so boisterous that skill and strength 
 are requisite to resist their impetuosity. To those 
 who are accustomed to behold the billows of the 
 ocean, the danger arising from the waves upon a ba- 
 sin of water not more than six miles in extent may be 
 regarded perhaps with contempt ; but the lower lake 
 sometimes presents the most frightful images of ele- 
 mental warfare. 
 
 A gentleman living near Killarney, who had often 
 crossed the ocean, assured me he had more than once 
 beheld it so much agitated by the hurricanes which 
 descend in circling eddies through the passes between 
 the mountains, that the waves, drifted together, an4 
 
91 
 
 raised to an immense height above the surface, assu- 
 med the terrific aspect of a water-spout. Though 
 such tremendous storms are seldom experienced in 
 summer, yet, as squalls occur even during that sea- 
 son, no boats should be used that are not able to en- 
 counter heavy waves. For the same reason, vessels 
 with sails cannot be employed without the greatest 
 care : those belonging to Lord Kenmare are all con- 
 ducted with oars. The boatmen, in general, when 
 sober, are very prudent ; and as, from long expe- 
 rience, they are well acquainted with the prognostics 
 of bad weather, their judgment and management 
 may be safely relied on. 
 
 The navigation of the lake is represented as unsafe 
 to those who are unacquainted with the rocks ; but 
 the peril in this respect is somewhat exaggerated. 
 The greatest danger to be apprehended from rocks 
 is when the lake either rises considerably above, or 
 sinks below, its ordinary level. In the former case, 
 those rocks which commonly appear above water are 
 covered, but not sufficiently deep to admit the pass- 
 age of a large boat over them ; and they are so nu- 
 merous, that it is almost impossible to remember the 
 precise situation of each. I have many times been 
 carried against them by boatmen of reputed expe- 
 rience. Similar accidents happen when the lake is 
 unusually low. In the summer of the year 1803, the 
 water, from a long continuance of dry weather, sunk 
 
so much, that a great many rocks were laid bare 
 which had never been seen before that period. A 
 large sail boat, belonging to a gentleman residing 
 near the lake, navigated by men who were supposed 
 to be thoroughly acquainted with every dangerous 
 point, was very nearly lost during this season, by 
 getting entangled in a reef of rocks near the Brown 
 island, over which there usually was found a sufficient 
 depth of Water ; and it was not extricated without 
 very great difficulty and danger. If, however, we 
 contrast the infrequency of untoward accidents with 
 the great concourse of people who venture on the 
 lake, at all seasons of the year, and if we reflect that 
 giddiness is the usual concomitant of festivity, we 
 may conclude that the navigation is almost exempt 
 from danger. 
 
 On approaching the lake in the vicinity of Ross 
 castle, some disappointment is at first generally expe- 
 rienced from the flatness and marshiness of the shore, 
 The latter part of the road is a mere causeway over 
 a morass or bog near the castle, which is reduced to a 
 ftarrow isthmus by inlets of the lake on each side. A 
 small canal through this isthmus, which just admits; 
 one boat, is the only separation between the main 
 land and the island during summer ; but in winter 
 the whole isthmus is overflowed. 
 
 The canal affords a ready passage from Ross bay 
 to Mucruss J and it also faciUtates that to the upper 
 
93 
 
 lake when the wind blows fresh hito the bay, at whicK 
 time the boats could with difficulty be rowed round 
 the northern point of the island. A small bridge is, 
 built across the canal, at the foot of which there is a 
 large gate, with a guard-house for the protection of 
 the approach to the castle : when the castle is garri- 
 soned, this gate is regularly closed at night, and sen- 
 tinels placed over it. 
 
 Ross castle is built on a rock close to the water. 
 The only remains of the old works are a large quad- 
 rangular tower, which is still perfect, with two small 
 circular flankers in a ruined state. Adjoining the 
 former, a barrack has been erected for two hundred 
 soldiers, which, together with apartments for officers 
 of the castle, stores, stables, ^c, give the place an 
 aspect of importance. The castle forms a conspicu- 
 ous feature in the landscape from almost every part 
 of the lower lake ; but the regularity of the modern 
 additions is destructive of the picturesque effect of 
 the ancient fabric. The view of it is taken from Reen 
 point, near the mouth of the bay of RoSvS. The guard- 
 house is distinguishable at a short distance, to the 
 left of the castle, on the low plashy ground ; and be- 
 yond it is seen a part of the lake, with the distant 
 shore and low hills of Mucruss. The pointed moun- 
 tain is Tusk, at the foot of which lies the middle, qr 
 Tusk lake ; the larger one to the left is Mangerton, 
 Between these two mountains there is an extensive 
 
94 
 
 valley, through which a romantic road is carried from , 
 the town of Killarney to the head of Kenmare river. 
 On a clear sunny day, a very dehghtful instance of 
 gradation of light is generally observable on the side 
 of Mangerton from this point. The time for behold- 
 ing it is late in the afternoon, when the sun has pass- 
 ed behind the mountains of the great chain. Tusk, 
 intercepting the rays of the sun, spreads a solemn 
 gloom over the landscape at its base, whilst the light 
 darting through the opening between it and Man- 
 gerton, richly illuminates the bold cliffs w^hich over- 
 hang the valley ; and, gradually diminishing along 
 the swell of the mountains, casts a fainter and still 
 fainter gleam on the projecting rocks, as they recede 
 from the source of illumination. 
 
 Ross castle is said to have been built by a power- 
 ful sept or tribe of O'Donoghoes. It was a place of 
 strength in the time of Cromwell, and resisted for 
 some time the attacks of the parliamentary army un- 
 der the command of General Ludlow, who gives the 
 following account of its capture : 
 
 " In the mean time, I was not wanting in my en- 
 deavour to reduce the enemy in Ireland, and to that 
 end marched with about four thousand foot, and two 
 thousand horse, towards Ross, in Kerry, where the 
 Lord Muskerry made his principal rendezvous, and 
 which was the only place of strength the Irish had 
 left, except the woods, bogs, and mountains, being a 
 
95 
 
 kind of island encompassed on every part by water, 
 except on one side, upon which there is a bog not 
 passable but by a causeway which the enemy had for- 
 tified. In this expedition I was accompanied by the 
 Lords Broghill, and Sir Hardress Waller, major-gene- 
 ral of the foot. Being arrived at this place, I was in- 
 formed that the enemy received continual supplies 
 from those parts that lay on the other side, and were 
 covered with woods and mountains ; whereupon I 
 sent a party of two thousand foot to clear these 
 woods, and to find out some convenient place for the 
 erecting a fort, if there should be occasion. These 
 forces met with some opposition, but at last they 
 routed the enemy, killing some, and taking others 
 prisoners ; the rest saved themselves by their good 
 footmanship. Whilst this was doing, I employed that 
 part of the army which was with me in fortifying a 
 neck of land, where I designed to leave a party to keep 
 in the Irish on this side, that I might be at liberty, 
 with the greatest part of the horse and foot, to look 
 after the enemy abroad, and to receive and convoy 
 such boats, and other things necessary, as the com- 
 missioners sent us by sea. When we had received 
 our boats, each of which was capable of containing 
 one hundred and twenty men, I ordered one of them 
 to be rowed about the water, in order to find out the 
 most convenient place for landing upon the enemy ; 
 which they perceiving, thought fit, by a timely sub- 
 
96 
 
 mission, to prevent the danger that threatened them ; 
 and having expressed their desires to that purpose, 
 commissioners were appointed on both sides to treat. 
 A fortnight was spent in debating upon the terms, 
 but articles were finally signed, and hostages deli- 
 vered on both sides ; in consequence of which ^ve 
 thousand horse and foot laid down their arms, and 
 surrendered their horses." 
 
 General Ludlow, in this account, does not inform 
 us by what means his boats were conveyed to the 
 lake ; yet they could not have been brought thither 
 without the greatest difficulty. The river Laune, 
 which runs from Killarney to the sea, is much too 
 shallow, when flowing at its ordinary level, to float a 
 boat capable of carrying one hundred and twenty 
 men ; and when it is swelled by floods, the current 
 acquires an impetuosity that could only tend to aug^ 
 ment the difficulty. In the chronological table enti- 
 tled Gesta Hibernorum, which is added to the An- 
 nals of Sir James Ware, the event is recorded in the 
 following words : — " Ross, in the county of Kerry, 
 a castle in an island, is yielded up to Ludlow, after 
 he had caused a small ship to be carried over the 
 mountains and set afloat in the lough, which terrified 
 the enemy." Ludlow himself mentions several ves- 
 sels. To have conveyed these over the mountains, 
 covered as they then were with forests, and along 
 roads that were probably little better than bridle- 
 
97 
 
 paths of the present day, must have been a most dif- 
 ficult and enterprising undertaking. 
 
 Ross castle gives rank and emolument to a gover- 
 nor. The officer who at present enjoys this dignity 
 was indebted, it is said, for his nomination to some 
 confusion which arose as to the topography of the 
 place from a similarity of names. Having, during 
 the disastrous troubles of the year 1793, performed 
 an achievement alike honourable to himself and ad- 
 vantageous to his country, at the new town of New 
 Ross, in the county of Wexford, the government of 
 this castle, on the peaceable confines of Killarney, no 
 sooner became vacant than he was instantly invested 
 with it, through the bounty of his sovereign, as an 
 appropriate reward for his meritorious services. 
 
 The island of Ross, a few years since, was one of 
 the most enchanting spots within the whole surround- 
 ing region. It was then covered to the water's edge 
 with majestic oaks, which formed 
 
 a shade 
 
 High rooPd, with walks beneath and alleys brown. 
 That open'd in the midst a woody scene : — 
 Nature's own work. 
 
 The luxuriant masses of foliage, mixed with the grey 
 rocks, the distant mountains, and the wide expanse 
 of water interspersed with clusters of wooded islands 
 gradually receding behind each other, formed alto- 
 gether a combination of natural objects rarely sur- 
 
98 
 
 passed in picturesque beauty. During the summer 
 of the year 1803, these stately trees were all felled ; 
 and the tranquillity of this once sequestered and de- 
 lightful spot yielded to the noise and bustle of com- 
 merce.* The beauty of this island, however, is not. 
 
 * No person who had beheld these woods in all their glory could 
 contrast the memory of that state with the present desolation of the 
 scene, without inquiring into the motives of their removal. In an- 
 swer to my questions on the spot, I was informed that the trees had 
 attained their full growth; that many of them had shown symptoms 
 of decay ; and that they were declining in value every year. I re- 
 ceived the same account of the woods of Glena, the whole of which 
 were likewise condemned to fall. With regard to the latter, how- 
 ever, which I had full opportunity to examine, an erroneous opinion, 
 I am persuaded, had been formed. Some of the trees were decayed, 
 and others apparently unhealthy ; but this resulted alone from a to- 
 tal neglect of thinning. Had the declining or unhealthy trees been 
 removed, and a proper space opened for the extension of the arms 
 of the remainder, and the admission of air, the woods would soon 
 have assumed a flourishing aspect, and become more valuable. A 
 considerable quantity of timber might have been cut with immediate 
 profit, and the ultimate value of the woods been augmented. The 
 system of thinning Woods, unfortunately for the beauty, and, I be- 
 lieve, unfortunately for the benefit of the country, is but little at- 
 tended to in Ireland ; so that it is very rare to meet with timber of 
 a size suitable for ship-building. In the county of Wicklow, and 
 some other parts of the kingdom where oak woods abound, it is the 
 practice to cut down all the trees every twenty or twenty -five years, 
 on a calculation that the interest of the money for which they sell, add- 
 ed to the value of the next growth, during a similar period of time, 
 affords a greater produce than the wood would do, if suffered to re- 
 main standing for fifty years together. From the accurate observa- 
 tions, however, of a gentleman in the county of Wicklow, who pos- 
 sesses some of the finest woods I am acquainted with in Ireland, and 
 "^vho has himself found the greatest advantage from the system of 
 
99 
 
 and, fortunately, cannot be, altogether destroyed. 
 The bold masses of rocks at the head of the several 
 little bays and inlets with which the shores are in- 
 dented, crowned with venerable yews, and intersper- 
 sed with shrubs and small trees, whose humility saved 
 them from the general devastation, still afford admi- 
 rable foregrounds, and the more distant part of the 
 landscape can only change with the revolutions of 
 nature. 
 
 To scenes like these, combining in such rare asso- 
 
 thinning gradually, there can be no doubt but that the latter is a 
 practice at once the most profitable to the proprietor, and most be- 
 neficial to the country. A discussion of this subject may be found 
 in Frazer's Statistical Survey of the County of Wicklow, and also in 
 a valuable little Treatise on Planting, published by the late Colonel 
 Hayes of Avondale, in the same county. In consequence of the 
 prevalent custom of cutting down woods at an early growth, without 
 any reservation, oak timber of a gross size bears a most enormous 
 price in almost every part of Ireland. I found many persons coming 
 to Ross island, from places distant above forty miles, to purchase as 
 much oak wood as could be carried away with one horse. The 
 common mode of conveyance was to affix, on each side of the horse, 
 a piece of timber like the shafts of a cart, to a loop thrown across 
 his back, and the other ends were suffered to trail upon the ground. 
 The persons who purchased these extensive woods at Killarney 
 were allowed twelve years for felling the timber, in what annual 
 proportions they please ; though the purchase-money is only payable 
 by regular stipulated instalments : the latter was stated to me at fif- 
 teen thousand pounds ; and I was informed from good authority, 
 that their profits were likely to amount to at least twenty thousand. 
 It was some gratification to perceive that parts of Ross island, where 
 the woods had been felled, had been afterwards extremely weH 
 planted, and fenced with care. 
 
100 ' 
 
 elation the most attractive objects of simple nature, 
 with the melancholy marks of the ravages of man, 
 will Genius retire to indulge its raptures, or afflicted 
 Sensibility to ease its cares. Wandering one day 
 amongst the solitudes of this island, I surprised a poor 
 musician, who sat upon a rude stone at the foot of one 
 of the few large trees that had escaped the general 
 havoc. He seemed wholly absorbed in contempla- 
 ting the scene around him, while he drew from his 
 instrument tones according with that melancholy 
 which the devastation of it was so well calculated to 
 inspire. On my approach, he broke off with a wild 
 cadence, and entered abruptly into conversation. A 
 few words were sufficient to betray a loss of intellect j 
 but the incoherent rhapsodies of insanity were replete 
 with traits of energy and feeling. He had been play- 
 ing, he told me, in different parts of the island for 
 five hours that morning ; and, pointing round with 
 his hand, asked, with no small degree of enthusiasm, 
 if I was not enchanted with the lake, the rocks, the 
 mountains ? — For his part, in the midst of such sce- 
 nery, with his violin for a companion, he found him- 
 self quite happy, and wished for nothing.* The 
 neighbouring people, he added, suppHed him with 
 
 * Avez-vous done connu ces rapports invisibles 
 Des corps inanimes et des ^tres sensibles ? 
 Avez-vouz entendu des eaujf, des pres, des boisj 
 La muette eloquence et la secrete voix ? 
 3 
 
101 
 
 food and lodging ; they also gave him clothes to co- 
 ver him, and administered to all his wants : in short, 
 he was happy — very happy. 
 
 This man possessed considerable talents for mu- 
 sic ; he understood composition, and played well on 
 a variety of instruments. He had formerly enlisted 
 in a regiment of militia as a clarionet player ; but, 
 for incorrigible drunkenness, was sentenced to re- 
 ceive punishment, and be dismissed from the service* 
 The regiment lay at that time in the barracks of Ross 
 castle. The culprit was marched in form into the 
 adjoining woods, tied to a tree, and the drummers 
 began to perform their duty. Through compassion 
 for his infirmity, a few lashes only were inflicted, and 
 he was then released : but the terror of punishment 
 operated so strongly on a mind endowed by nature 
 with much sensibility, and debilitated by habitual in- 
 toxication, that he became almost instantaneously 
 deprived of his senses, and never afterwards perfectly 
 recovered them. 
 
 The retirement of Ross island was likewise inter- 
 rupted by the re-opening of the mines on the western 
 side of the island. These mines were worked at a 
 very early period, and numerous ancient tools of the 
 rudest description have been found about the place ; 
 in particular, stones of an oblong spheroidical shape^ 
 which appear to have been used as hammers for break- 
 ing the ore : the ends are in general much battered, 
 
102 
 
 and their girths marked with a slight indenture, ob- 
 viously intended to confine the ligaments by which 
 they were fastened to the handles. The old shafts 
 are all filled with water, which is supposed to have 
 rushed in owing to the unskilful conduct of the mi- 
 ners in carrying their works too near the lake ; and 
 the mine lay for a long time totally neglected, until 
 the year 1 804, when a gentleman from Cornwall, who 
 had examined it some time before, through curiosity, 
 whilst occupied with the duties of his military pro- 
 fession, undertook himself to open it. A capital, 
 raised on shares, was soon provided sufficient for the 
 purpose, and the scheme was attended with imme- 
 diate advantage. No attempts were made to draw 
 off the water from that part of the mine with which 
 the shafts communicated, which probably would have 
 been a hazardous speculation : the first efforts of the 
 adventurers were directed solely to draining a nar- 
 row oblong pit, which appeared formerly to have been 
 opened with a view of following a vein of ore near 
 the lake ; and, having attained their object, they dis- 
 covered at the bottom of it a rich bed of lead and of 
 copper, which was raised with great facility, and af- 
 forded for a time considerable profit.* The chief 
 produce when I visited the place, in the year 1804, 
 was compact and common galena, and yellow copper 
 
 * The works have since proved very unsuccessful. 
 
103 
 
 ore : the former were both of an excellent quality ; 
 but the copper pyrites, from the great proportion of 
 iron it contained, seemed inferior to the specimens 
 which I have found on the peninsula at Mucruss. 
 Brown and yellow blende and grey copper are also 
 found at Ross. The vein stone is calcareous, with 
 some intermixture of argillaceous schistus. 
 
 Before the company was formed which now con- 
 ducts the mine, several speculators were attracted 
 hither by the reports which they had heard of the 
 richness of the ore. I happened one day to be pre- 
 sent whilst two of those people, rough Lancashire 
 men, were examining the old works. They soon 
 formed a judgment, and at once relinquished the idea 
 of engaging in the enterprise ; but the spirit of spe- 
 culation was active in their minds. Casting their 
 eyes around, they suddenly conceived the project of 
 draining the lake ; and began vauntingly to declare 
 "what a deal of land they could add to the possessions 
 of Lord Kenmare, were he to employ them in such an 
 undertaking. I know not whether they would have 
 laid their proposals seriously before his lordship, had 
 they been allowed to proceed with their calculations 5 
 but such an outcry was instantly raised against them 
 by the surrounding peasants and by the boatmen, 
 whose pride and interest were both alarmed at the 
 idea of the lake being converted into dry land, that 
 the poor frighted engineers were well pleased to re- 
 
104 
 
 linquish their golden dreams, and to obtain imme- 
 diate safety by a precipitate retreat. 
 
 Attempts were actually made, some years ago, to 
 reduce the water in the lake, for the purpose of faci- 
 litating the operations at the mines of Mucruss. To 
 this end, a cut was made from the river Laune near 
 Dunloh castle, which it was imagined, by avoiding a 
 sand-bar, would enable a greater quantity of water to 
 escape ; but the alteration it made in the level of the 
 lake was scarcely perceptible. Should this object at 
 any future time become desirable, it will be alone at- 
 tainable by enlarging the channel of that river at its 
 source, the only outlet for the waters in the whole 
 circuit of the surrounding shore : but, fortunately for 
 the admirers of this attractive lake, nature has inter- 
 posed an insurmountable impediment to its being en- 
 tirely drained, if avaricious speculation should ever 
 dream of the attempt ; for the fall from its level to 
 the tide-water is considerably less than the actual 
 depth of the lake. 
 
 At a short distance from the mines in Ross island 
 there is a quarry from which a considerable quantity 
 of marble is annually raised. It is commonly used 
 for the manufacture of hearths and chimney-pieces 
 throughout the adjacent district; but its principal 
 consumption seems to be for tomb-stones ; to pur- 
 chase which, numerous people, apparently but ill 
 able to afford the expense, come across the moun- 
 
llllll{||||||||{|||li>!lllllllllll>lil:ll<:'n''il'!tinHiilll!illlll!iillliilt!liii!llillllillilli! 
 
105 
 
 tains, from places, in some instances, distant upwards 
 of twenty miles. The marble is generally of a pale 
 ash colour, streaked with white and red veins ; some 
 of it is of a pale red colour, and some pale isabella 
 yellow : the varieties are very numerous. Its ar- 
 rangement in the earth is stratified, and it is easily 
 raised in very large pieces. 
 
 The island of Ross, being situated nearly midway 
 between the extremities of the lake, separates it into 
 two divisions, which the boatmen, who appear to be 
 acquainted with the cardinal points alone, distinguish, 
 though not with sufficient accuracy, by the terms of 
 eastern and western : this mode of designating loca- 
 hty is common to all the people of Kerry, who ex- 
 tend the exercise of it to the ordinary instructions 
 which are given to the inquiring traveller on the pub- 
 lic road. 
 
 In entering upon a description of the lower lake, 
 I shall begin with that division which lies between 
 Ross island and the river Laune, and shall suppose 
 that we are proceeding from the castle through the 
 bay of Ross towards Innisfallen island. 
 
 As the water is much deeper under Ross island 
 than it is at the opposite side of the bay, the boats are 
 usually kept close under the rocky shore. Several 
 little wooded promontories here overhang the lake, 
 on approaching which the attention is continually 
 kept alive, by the hope of discovering some new 
 
106 
 
 landscape behind them ; but no part of the distant 
 scene is revealed till you reach the mouth of the bay, 
 when, on doubling a rocky point, an extensive pros- 
 pect of the mountains, with a wide expanse of the 
 lake, suddenly burst upon the eye. I have attempt- 
 ed to give a representation of this prospect. The 
 woods on the right are those of Innisfallen island ; 
 the foreground, a part of the shore of Ross ; Mouse 
 island is seen in the middle channel, and in the dis- 
 tance Tomies mountain. 
 
 Several small islands appear at the mouth of Ross 
 bay, the most remarkable of which is a large rock of 
 limestone, about twenty feet in height ; on one side 
 nearly perpendicular, and not unlike a wall. It is 
 called O'Donaghoe's prison ; and, according to the 
 legendary tales of the country, was employed by the 
 good old prince of that name, in former times, as a 
 place of confinement for his disobedient son and re- 
 bellious associates : 
 
 There, during life, the factious were immured. 
 And peace and order without blood secured. 
 
 In what age the great O'Donaghoe flourished, the 
 tradition of whose virtues is fondly transmitted from 
 generation to generation, is not easily determinable ; 
 but that a distinguished prince of that name did once 
 actually reign over this favoured region, is a point so 
 established by the testimony of concurrent tradition. 
 
107 
 
 as scarcely to require confirmation from the page of 
 history. 
 
 " His countrymen," says an anonymous writer, 
 " represent him Hke the demigods of old — a contem- 
 ner of danger ; a sworn foe to oppression ; a passion- 
 ate admirer of whatever is great and honourable. 
 The severity of his warlike virtues was tempered by 
 a generous hospitahty, which embraced a friend in 
 every stranger. The rigour of the legislator was 
 blended and lost in the endearing condescension of 
 the friend : the prince was the father of his country ; 
 his court was the seat of joy and festivity: worth 
 took its place at the board by inherent birthright ; 
 grey hairs received their reverence, and distressed 
 innocence had a peculiar plea of admission, for hu- 
 manity was paramount, and suspicious policy abso- 
 lutely unknown. He was wise too ; and the gods 
 sped his counsels, for his subjects were happy. Fruit- 
 ful seasons crowned the year with plenty, and un- 
 disturbed tranquillity led the way to enjoyment." 
 
 Such was the auspicious reign of this excellent 
 prince : nay, more ; still solicitous about the prospe- 
 rity of his ancient dominions, it is believed he quits 
 at times the regions of immortal bliss, and appears 
 in person among the descendants of his people. I 
 have met men who related the tale with all the en- 
 thusiasm of religious faith, and who asserted most so- 
 lemnly they had themselves beheld the apparition : 
 
108 
 
 happily, however, for the cause of common sense, the 
 numbers who give credit to it daily decrease. In a 
 poem entitled Killarney, the legend is fully related ; 
 the following lines from it are descriptive of his first 
 appearance :— 
 
 Once, on a day distinguish'd from the rest, 
 Surrounded by his subjects at the feast, 
 Cheerful he sat, and in prophetic rhymes 
 Darkling rehears'd the fate of future times :— 
 Wliile from his tongue divine prediction flow'd^ 
 And firm belief in every bosom glow'd. 
 Sudden he rose, and, to the gazing throng. 
 As some light vision seem'd to skim along :— 
 The neighbouring lake wide op'd its willing wave, 
 And quick received him in a crystal grave. 
 *********** 
 
 Some years were past, when, as the usual day 
 Of solemn mourning brought them forth to pay 
 The tribute of their tears ; — with streaming eyes 
 They call'd on Donaghoe to hear their cries ; 
 Implored the dire abyss, in piteous strain. 
 To give them back their Donaghoe again. 
 Soft, at a solemn interval, the sound 
 Of airs celestial fiird the scene around : 
 The hills, the dales, the shores began to smile, 
 And tenfold brighter shone the royal isle : 
 The sylvan songsters warbled from each spray, 
 The waters blush'd as at the rising day : 
 Thunder at length the awful signal gave ; 
 A form all glorious started from the wave : — 
 'Twas Donaghoe. 
 
 The appearance of O'Donaghoe is considered a 
 most propitious omen to the person who is fortunate 
 enough to behold him j and the eye of the wandei'* 
 
109 
 
 ing peasant eagerly searches for him along the wind- 
 ings of the lake. The prince is always described as 
 being mounted on a milk-white steed. May it not 
 then be supposed that the white foam of a distant 
 wave, suddenly curled up by a gust of wind from the 
 mountains, has often been converted by the enthusi- 
 astic imagination of the simple and superstitious na- 
 tive, into the semblance of a horse and his rider, 
 whose preternatural appearance his interest and cre- 
 dulity are ahke perpetually anticipating ?* 
 
 The name of O'Donaghoe is common in the town 
 of Killarney and throughout the neighbouring dis- 
 trict ; and a person who is deemed to be the lineal 
 descendant of the ancient chieftain of the sept or 
 clan, is sedulously distinguished from the rest ; not, 
 however, by the means of a pompous title, but, on 
 the contrary, by being called simply O'Donaghoe ; 
 to annex even the common title of Mr to his name 
 would be considered a gross derogation from his 
 dignity. 
 
 At a short distance from O'Donaghoe's prison lies 
 the beautiful island of Innisfallen, 
 
 * Ariosto presents us with a similar image in his description of a 
 tempest : 
 
 Sorgono altera e minacciose I'onde, 
 Mugghiando sopra 'I mar va '1 gregge bianco. 
 
 OrL Fu. xli. 9. 
 
110 
 
 . .... so sweet and pleasant to the eye, 
 That it would tempt a man to touchen there. 
 
 From the water it appears to be entirely covered with 
 an impervious wood. 
 
 In every leaf of various green array'd : 
 
 but after passing under the lofty shade, which forms 
 a skreen along the shores, the interior part is found 
 spread out into natural lawns, diversified with clumps 
 of trees and masses of grey rock. From these de- 
 lightful openings the blue tops of the mountains on 
 the south side of the lake are beheld towering above 
 the surrounding woods 5 whilst, between the boles of 
 the trees, the water appears sparkling below, and oc- 
 casionally is seen a reach of the distant shore. In the 
 disposition of these grounds, the hand of art can only 
 be traced in forming a shrubbery among the rocks, 
 and surrounding the isle with a gravel walk under the 
 tall trees growing near the water. The walk cannot 
 be deemed an embellishment, but it adds materially 
 to the accommodation and pleasure of occasional vi- 
 sitors, who, during wet weather, might otherwise be 
 deterred from surveying the internal beauties of this 
 interesting spot. A curious old yew-tree springing 
 from the crevice of a rock, and which at once forms 
 a commodious seat and an agreeable shade,* is point- 
 
 * a shady bank 
 
 Thick overhead with verdant roof embower'd. 
 
 Paradise Lost, b. ix. 1.1 037, et siibseq. 
 
Ill 
 
 cd out in the shrubbery as an object of attention. It 
 is called the fiuitful yew ; and some strange particu- 
 lars of its virtues are related by the guides, with a 
 faith nothing doubting. Those who visit the delight- 
 ful regions of Killarney may be gratified, if they 
 please, with the recital of this legendary tale. I can 
 only say, that the story is connected with that of a 
 fond pair, who, on a sweet evening, at a season of 
 the year 
 
 When nature all wears to the lover's eye 
 A look of love,— 
 
 having chanced to stray along the sequestered walks 
 of this terrestrial paradise, suddenly found their hearts 
 enchained by the captivating song of a little bird, 
 which warbled through the groves, not less melodi- 
 ously than that in the enchanted garden of Armida, 
 
 Cogliam d'amor la rosa, or amiamo quando 
 Esser si puote riamato amando. 
 
 Trees of all sorts, but more particularly the ash and 
 the holly,* attain a much larger size on this island 
 than on any part of the neighbouring shores ; a con- 
 clusive proof of the great fertility of the soil : and the 
 natural herbage possesses such an extraordinary power 
 for fattening cattle, that its excellence is proverbial 
 
 * I measured one holly whose bole was ten feet in circumference, 
 and the tree was sound and vigorous, 
 
112 
 
 throughout the country. One would think that the 
 recollection of this place was fresh in the memory of 
 Spenser when he drew the description of the island 
 in the idle lake.* 
 
 It was a chosen plott of fertile land 
 Emongst wide waves sett, like a little nest ; 
 As if it had by Nature's cunning hand 
 Bene choycely picked out from all the rest, 
 And laid forth for ensample of the best. 
 
 Towards Ross, the shores of Innisfallen are low 
 and shelving, and the water very shallow, as the nu- 
 merous rounded black stones which appear above the 
 surface, at a considerable distance from the land, in- 
 dicate : the opposite side of the island, totally difte- 
 rent in its character, presents a barrier of bold rocks 
 rising perpendicularly from the water to the height of 
 twenty feet. In tempestuous weather, immense bil- 
 lows are rolled from the great body of the lake against 
 these rocks, and they break with a terrific noise, 
 which resounds through the woods of the island. 
 From the shallowness of the shores on one side of the 
 
 * That Spenser was indebted for much of his imagery to the rich 
 and romantic scenes of the south of Ireland, is generally admitted. 
 The distance of Kilcolman castle, where he resided whilst engaged 
 in the composition of his Faerie Queen, from the lake of Killarney, 
 is not more than one day's easy journey; it may be presumed, 
 therefore, that such an attractive and beautiful spot could not have 
 escaped the minute attention of the poet. 
 
113 
 
 island, and the steepness of rocks on the other, it 
 would be difficult to land, were it not for two little 
 quays which have been built,_in sheltered situations, 
 at the east corner of the island ; but with these ac- 
 commodations all difficulty has been removed. 
 
 Innisfallen is indented with several little coves and 
 inlets, resembling those on Ross island, but superior 
 in picturesque beauty, from being skirted with lofty 
 trees. More delightful studies for the pencil are 
 scarcely to be found, whether they be view^ed under 
 the influence of the storm, or during the stillness of 
 a summer's evening, when the lake presents an un- 
 ruffled surface, and the images of the various objects 
 on the shore appear 
 
 Smooth gloss'd and soften'd In the mirror's breast. 
 
 The woods of the island, presenting a beautiful ap- 
 pearance from the water on every side, are seen to 
 most advantage after the first frosts in the autumnal 
 season, when the ash trees growing neai' the shore, 
 tinged with yellow, display the elegance of their light 
 pensile foliage, relieved by the rich green of the oaks. 
 Innisfallen contains upwards of twelve Irish acres, 
 or, according to some computations, eighteen. The 
 Irish plantation acre differs from the English statute 
 acre in the proportion of the square of fourteen to the 
 square of eleven ; that is, nearly as five to three. 
 
 As no spot within the confines of Killarney pos- 
 
 II 
 
114 
 
 senses more attractions, so none is so much resorted 
 to as Innisfallen ; and that not only by passing stran- 
 gers, but by the resident gentry of the countiy, who, 
 during summer, frequently give fetes champetres on 
 this island to large parties of their neighbouring 
 friends. The amusements, on these occasions, con- 
 sist of such as accord with the nature of the place. 
 Some, with a chosen company, put off' from the island 
 and row or sail along the shores, to display their own 
 dexterity, or the superior excellence of their boats, 
 which, decked with their gayest colours, diffuse an 
 air of uncommon cheerfulness over the scene. Some 
 wander through the woods ; whilst others, reclined 
 on the rocky beach, find pleasure in contemplating 
 the magnificence of the surrounding landscape ; or 
 perhaps continue listening to the sound of music, 
 " by distance made more sweet/' Dancing on the 
 green sod, in the mean time, engages the more gay ; 
 and often, the length of a summer's day being insuf- 
 ficient to complete the enjoyment, the festive enter- 
 tainment is protracted through the cool and stilly 
 hours of the night, 
 
 • . . , while over head the moon 
 Sits arbitress, and nearer to the earth 
 Wheels her pale course. 
 
 If a visit to Innisfallen happen to be made for the 
 first time under favourable circumstances, when the 
 shores, instead of being crowded by different parties. 
 
115 
 
 are seen in all their native simplicity, it seldom fails 
 to inspire, at least for the moment, very enthusiastic 
 feelings on the subject of rural retirement. There 
 is something, indeed, in the idea of a beautiful island 
 secluded from the noisy intercourse of the world, on 
 which the mind dwells with peculiar pleasure ; and 
 we accordingly find that such places have furnished 
 themes through all ages for the most voluptuous de- 
 scriptions of poetry. The peaceful and retired situ- 
 ation of Innisfallen did not escape the notice of the 
 monks ; and it early became the seat of a distin- 
 guished abbey, whose remains are still visible near 
 the landing-place. It was founded and endowed to- 
 wards the close of the sixth century by Finan,* son 
 of one of the kings of Munster ; and, in after times, 
 became appropriated to the use of the regular canons 
 of St Augustin. This noble person was eminent, we 
 are told, for his great learning and extraordinary 
 piety, and was one of the very many who were esteem- 
 ed deserving of canonization about the same period. 
 Indeed, so great was the number of these pious con- 
 temporaries, whose memory was thus honoured in 
 Ireland, that the country soon came to be distin- 
 guished by the appellation of the Island of Saints. 
 
 That Ireland^ during the ages which succeeded the 
 introduction of Christianity, was celebrated amidst 
 
 '^ Act. SS. Gokan. Fegtiv.— 6 Martie, 
 
116 
 
 the surrounding nations as the seat of learning and 
 tranquilHty, is generally admitted. By the zeal of the 
 Irish missionaries, it is said, many of the Northum* 
 brians, east Angles, and northern Picts,* were con- 
 verted ; and some of those who were most conspicu- 
 ous for their abilities^ at the express invitation of the 
 potentates of the country, went into Burgundy and 
 Germany, to preside over the convents which had 
 been lately founded there.t The venerable Bede, in 
 his Church History, gives a most pleasing account of 
 the state of Ireland during the seventh century.;}: 
 
 * Beda, Hist. Eccles. 1. iii. cap. 4. 
 
 f Camden Brit. Ireland, vol. II. p. 1317 — Gibson's edit. 
 
 \ Erant ibidem, ed tenipore, multi nobilium siraul et medioCriura, 
 do gente Anglorum, qui tempore Finani et Colmani episcoporum> 
 relicta insula patria, vel divinae lectionis, vel continentioris vitae gra- 
 tia, illo secesserant. Et quidam, quidem, mox se monasticae con- 
 versationi fideliter mancipaverunt, alii naagis circumeundo per cellas 
 magistrorum,lectioni operam dare gaudebant; quos omnes Scotti^f 
 libentissime susclpientes, victum eis quotidianum sine pretio, libros 
 quoque ad legendum, et magisterium gratuitum prasbere curabant. 
 — Hht. Eccles. 1. iii. cap. 27» 
 
 I Bede here calls the inhabitants of Ireland Scots ; and, in the first chapter 
 of his first book, he sajs that Ireland is the propet country of the Scots, fi<om 
 v?hrch a colony had migrated into Britain, and thus added a third nation to the 
 Britons and Pic<s. Be this as it may, the appellation of Scots, applied indis- 
 criminately to the inhabitants of Ireland, and to those of Scotland, by some of 
 the Anglo-Saxons, has given rise to disputatious, between modern writers on 
 Scottish and Irish antiquities, which cannot be read without a smile; as, for 
 instance, on the subject of tlie birth-place of Johannes ScotusErigena, the most 
 learned man of the ninth century. The Irish writers maintain that his sur- 
 name of Erigena clearly indicates the place of his nativity ; Ere or Erin being 
 the proper name of Ireland. The Scotch, on the contrary, will not give him 
 up, but insist that Erigena signifies that he was worn in the town of Ayr in Scot- 
 land. 
 
 See M'Kenzie's Scotch Writers-— Henri's Hist, of Britain, book ii.— Sir 
 James Ware's Irish Writers— Du Pin, &c. 
 
117 
 
 <« At that period/' says he, " when Finan and Col- 
 man were bishops, there wxre many of the English 
 nobiHty, as well as persons of inferior rank, who, lea- 
 ving their native island, retired thither (into Ireland) 
 for the sake of religious instruction, or of leading a 
 more continent life. Of these, some devoted them- 
 selves entirely to the conversation of the monks ; 
 whilst others, visiting the cells of their masters, took 
 more delight in reading. The Irish received them all 
 most willingly ; maintained them free of expense ; 
 provided them with books to read, and directed their 
 studies without any fee or reward whatsoever.'* 
 
 What a delightful and liberal system ! How diffe- 
 rent from that pursued by many mercenary peda- 
 gogues of the present day, who, without inclination 
 or abilities to discharge the important duties of edu^ 
 cation, undertake that most sacred of all trusts, for 
 the mere purposes of private emolument ; and thus 
 at once defraud parents of their money, and children 
 of their instruction ! 
 
 The most noted schools in Ireland at this early pe- 
 riod were those of Armagh, and of Clonard, in the 
 county of Meath ; but it is probable that many of 
 the smaller monasteries had also their scholars and 
 inmates ; and even the retired abbey of Innisfallei;! 
 might have been amongst the number. Fancy at 
 least is wilHng to indulge in the idea, and fondly re- 
 calls the time when this little island was the abode of 
 
118 
 
 piety and learning. Here the venerable fathers are 
 seen meditating in their cells ; here straying through 
 the lofty groves in deep conversation with their pu- 
 pils ; here, at the solemn silent close of day, seated 
 on one of those rocks which ages have not altered, 
 contemplating the varied beauties of nature ; and, 
 from the splendour of the departing sun, drawing in- 
 ferences of the glories of that celestial paradise to- 
 wards which their enthusiastic hopes unceasingly 
 aspired. 
 
 Let us here 
 
 Content and grateful wait th' appointed time, 
 Aiid ripen for the skies ; the hour will come 
 W^hen all these splendours, bursting on the sight, 
 Shall stand unveil'd, and to the ravish'd sense 
 Unlock the glories of the world unknown. 
 
 Such liberal conduct, on the part of the Irish 
 monks, argued no ordinary degree of enthusiasm in 
 the cause of learning ; but of the nature and extent 
 of that learning no traces are left. In the beginning 
 of the ninth century, Turgese the Dane, and his san- 
 guinary followers, desolated the kingdom for the 
 space of thirty years, massacring all the clergy whom 
 they could find, and destroying their books, their 
 monasteries, their churches, and every monument 
 that could perpetuate to posterity the blessings of 
 their knowledge, or the records of their virtues : by 
 which calamity " this most flourishing island," to use 
 
119 
 
 the expression of Archbishop Usher,* " was once 
 more reduced to a state of barbarism." The destruc- 
 tion of the few remaining specimens of ancient lite- 
 rature seems to have been intended in the reign of 
 Ehzabeth, when Sir George Carew, lord president of 
 Munster, afterwards Earl of Totness, and the other 
 English commanders in the island, were charged to 
 collect all the manuscripts they could find, in order 
 to remove every vestige of antiquity and letters in 
 the kingdom. t The main object of this odious and 
 unjust policy was to obliterate the remembrance of 
 the origin and descent of the chiefs of particular 
 tribes, which, being carefully preserved in their re- 
 cords and annals, acted as a bond of union between 
 them and their dependents. 
 
 Lord Lyttelton observes, that " the loss of these 
 ancient manuscripts may well be deemed a misfor- 
 tune, not only to the Irish, but to the whole learned 
 world.t It must be remembered, however, that man- 
 kind is prone to over-rate the value of that which has 
 been irrecoverably lost.§ So far as these manuscripts 
 might have contributed to elucidate the remote and 
 doubtful period of Irish history, they would unques- 
 
 * Eccles. Brit. Antiq. — Usher, 
 f Genealog. Notes on the Family of O'SuIlivan. 
 f Hist. Henry II. book iv. 
 § Virtutem incolumem odimus, 
 Sublatam ex oculis quserimus invidi. 
 
120 
 
 tionably have been curious and interesting ; but it h 
 highly probable that they were not of that vast im- 
 portance which some zealous writers on the subject 
 of Irish antiquities have fondly imagined. . If they 
 had been so valuable, if they had contained any in- 
 formation of real use to the world, surely some traces 
 of them would have been preserved. Several of the 
 Irish, most eminent for their learning, had been in- 
 vited, it appears, to the continent ; and others, who 
 in after times found means to escape thither from the 
 fury of the Danes, were received with open arms by 
 the princes of the country where they took refuge. 
 All these men, it may be presumed, would not have 
 departed without any memorial of the history or ge- 
 nius of their countrymen. The mere vanity of dis- 
 playing specimens of the literary productions of their 
 native land would have prompted them to carry 
 away copies of those performances which were most 
 esteemed ; and, if they have perished in the progress 
 of years, it must, in a great measure, be attributed to 
 their insignificance. To the manuscript copies of the 
 different performances of the venerable Bede which 
 were transferred to the continent, and collected there 
 in later times, we are indebted for the only complete 
 edition of his works.* 
 
 The most ancient Irish manuscript, of which par- 
 
 • Henry's Hist, of Britain, book ii. chap. 4. 
 
121 
 
 ticular mention has been made, was the Psaltrick* of 
 Cashel, a metrical chronicle, composed by Cormac, 
 son of Culinan, king and bishop of Munster, early in 
 the tenth century. Sir James Ware asserts that it 
 was extant in his time, and held in great estimation ; 
 and he adds, that he had himself a selection which was 
 extracted from it three hundred years before : but as 
 he does not mention where the original was to be 
 seen, strong doubts are entertained of the accuracy 
 of his information. It has been often searched for 
 since his time, but in vain. 
 
 Of the manuscripts of a later date which are still 
 preserved, one of the oldest and most remarkable ap- 
 pears to be a book of Annals written by a monk of the 
 abbey of Innisfallen, about the year 1216. According 
 to Sir James Ware,t this writer gives a short account 
 of universal history till the year 430, or thereabouts ; 
 but, after this period, he treats very diligently of the 
 affairs of Ireland to his own times. In the copy he 
 possessed, the Annals, he informs us, were continued 
 by another hand to the year 1320. Bishop Nichol- 
 son, in his Irish Historical Library, gives nearly the 
 same account, and adds, that there was a copy of this 
 manuscript in the library of the Duke of Chandos. 
 
 * This book has been commonly called the Psalter of Cashel, but 
 very erroneously, as General Vallancey has informed me : the word 
 Psaltrick signifies, in Irish, a chronicle. 
 
 t Antiq. of Ireland. Folio, Lond. 1704. 
 
122 
 
 [Bibl. Chand. Membr. Hist. No. 26.] A third, but 
 imperfect one, is to be found in the Hbrary of Tri- 
 nity College, Dublin. Sir James Ware employed 
 persons to translate selected parts of these Annals ; 
 and many references to their authority are to be 
 found in his works on the antiquities of Ireland : the 
 editor of the Monasticon Hibernicum has also given 
 extracts from them ; but, as they only vary in some 
 trifling particulars from those contained in the works 
 of Sir James, it may be presumed that they were de- 
 rived from the same source. 
 
 The two following passages are the most remark- 
 able of those which appear in the Monasticon : — 
 " Anno 1 1 80. — This abbey of Innisfallen being ever 
 esteemed a paradise and a secure sanctuary, the trea- 
 sure and the most valuable effects of the whole coun- 
 try wxre deposited in the hands of the clergy ; not- 
 withstanding which, we find the abbey was plundered 
 in this year by Maolduin, son of Daniel O'Donaghoe. 
 Many of the clergy were slain, and even in their ce- 
 metery, by the Macarthys. But God soon punished 
 this act of impiety and sacrilege, by bringing many 
 of its authors to an untimely end." — " 1197, Dec. 
 19th, died Gilla Patrick O'Huihair, in the seventy- 
 ninth year of his age. He was archdeacon of Faith- 
 lin, superior of this convent, and the founder of many 
 religious houses, to all of which he presented books, 
 vestments, and all other necessary furniture. He 
 
123 
 
 was a celebrated poet, and was in the highest esti- 
 mation for his chaste life, piety, wisdom, and univer- 
 sal charity.'* 
 
 It has often been lamented that no complete trans- 
 lation should have been made of the Annals of In- 
 nisfallen, and of other ancient Irish manuscripts which 
 are preserved in the public libraries ; but the neglect 
 with which they have been treated is in a great mea- 
 sure to be attributed to the frivolity of the matter 
 contained in those writings which have been already 
 examined. The Royal Irish Academy, not long since, 
 employed persons to make an English version of two 
 ancient histories, which had been presented to their 
 library, called The Book of Ballymote and The An- 
 nals of the Four Masters. The legendary fictions, 
 however, which they contained, predominated so 
 much over those parts which had any pretensions to 
 authenticity, that, after some progress in the work, 
 the translations were stopped^ as undeserving of fur- 
 ther expense. 
 
 I have looked over these translations, and can bear 
 testimony to the deplorable picture which they pre- 
 sent of ignorance, credulity, and superstition. 
 
 The Book of Ballymote commences with an account 
 of the creation, and represents the Deity at a loss to 
 find a. name for the newly-created man. Four angels 
 are dispatched to the four quarters of the universe, 
 each of whom returns with the name of a particular 
 
124 
 
 star. The initial letters of the names of the four stars 
 are put together, and the man is called A-D-A-M. 
 
 The Annals of the Four Masters^ so called from ha- 
 ving been compiled by four monks of Donegal, about 
 the year 1 QS6^ from the most esteemed and ancient 
 histories of Ireland that were then extant, begin, like 
 the Book of Ballymote, with an account of the first 
 inhabitants of the globe. They narrate, with much 
 precision, the story of a small tribe, descended from 
 one of the sons of Noah, which departs from Scy thia, 
 in quest of the land furthest to the west, which is 
 supposed to have been promised to their tribe in a 
 prophecy. After passing through Egypt, the adven- 
 turers embark for Crete ; thence they proceed along 
 the shores of Africa to Spain, in which last country 
 they settle, under a belief that there was no land 
 more westward. Here they build a very lofty towe? 
 on the sea-shore, with a city called Brigantium. Af- 
 ter remaining for three generations, however, in 
 Spain, the chief of the tribe, on a remarkably clear 
 tranquil evening, descries from the summit of the 
 tower the coast of Ireland, still further to the west. 
 The error being thus discovered, it is immediately 
 determined to leave Spain : a fleet is prepared ; the 
 whole tribe embarked 5 and having arrived safely in 
 Ireland, that country, after minute investigation, con- 
 firmed by numberless portentous signs, is ascertained 
 to be really the promised land. 
 
1^5 
 
 In these books a melancholy account is given of 
 the incessant broils and bloody battles between the 
 different septs, which continued to desolate the king- 
 dom even long after the invasion of the English ; and 
 on this part of the history probably some reliance 
 may be placed. 
 
 Contemptible as these specimens of the monkish 
 waitings appear, it is nevertheless unfair to condemn 
 all those manuscripts to oblivion which have hitherto 
 remained unexamined. " The monks," as an agree- 
 able writer has observed, " w^ere the only historians 
 of their day ; and though their accounts be interwo- 
 ven with many a legendary tale, and darkened by 
 much superstition, still they are better than no his- 
 tories at all, and we cannot but think ourselves 
 obliged to them for transmitting to us in any dress 
 the annals of their country." 
 
 The late Henry Flood, long distinguished as one 
 of the brightest ornaments of the Irish senate, was so 
 fully persuaded of the importance of having all the 
 Irish manuscripts which could be procured, examined 
 by persons thoroughly versed in the Irish language, 
 that he bequeathed a considerable estate to the uni- 
 versity of Dublin for that purpose, and for establish- 
 ing a professorship of the Irish language :* and those 
 
 * The title to this estate has been contested at law, and the deci- 
 sions of the court, hitherto, have been unfavourable to the university* 
 
126 
 
 who will be at the pains of perusing a small volume^ 
 written by Sir Laurence Parsons, (now Lord Ross) in 
 justification of the bequest, and in vindication of the 
 ancient history of Ireland, will, perhaps, feel inchned 
 to pay more attention to this subject than it has al- 
 ready received from persons having leisure and op- 
 portunity to devote themselves to such pursuits. 
 
 The remains of the abbey of Innisfallen are situ- 
 ated at the north-eastern extremity of the island, 
 within a grove of lofty ash trees ; they are in a very 
 perishable state, and fast approaching to their end : 
 
 Kuin hangs hovering o'er the fatal place, 
 And dumb Oblivion comes with mended pace. 
 
 The abbey church consisted of a single aisle, se- 
 venty feet long, and twenty wide ; and from the nar- 
 rowness of the few windows which can be now tra- 
 ced, it must, Hke other ancient churches of L'eland, 
 have been extremely dark. At the south-east corner, 
 a very large fragment of the wall, in which there are 
 some hewn stones which appear to have once formed 
 part of an arch, stands detached from the rest of the 
 building ; a circumstance which leads to the suppo- 
 sition of its having suffered some more sudden and 
 more violent injury than the mere attacks of time alone 
 could have inflicted : probably the soldiers of the 
 parliamentary army, at the time the castle of Ross 
 was besieged, were instrumental to its destruction. 
 
127 
 
 The architecture of the cloister, and of what seem to 
 have been the dwelling apartments of the abbey, is 
 most rude : no remains of sculptured ornaments ; no 
 lofty arches ; no spacious windows are here observ- 
 able. The cloister was only thirty-eight feet square ; 
 but though its walls are very much dilapidated, the 
 limits of its covered walk, and the apertures opening 
 into the interior area, may be distinctly traced. 
 
 At a short distance from the principal ruins, there 
 are three other buildings, two of which, that are in a 
 decayed state, evidently belonged to the abbey ; but 
 whether the third, w^hich lies to the west of the church, 
 and which is now inhabited by the people who take 
 care of the island, ever formed a part of it, seems 
 doubtful. The guides point out, just behind it, the 
 garden of the abbey, which still contain some plum- 
 trees of great age, and some large thorns coeval with 
 them, which appear to have once formed the sur- 
 rounding hedge. 
 
 Of all the remains of antiquity at this place, the 
 most interesting, and the only one which has any 
 claim to picturesque beauty, is a small chapel or ora- 
 tory, covered with ivy, which stands on a mass of 
 rocks close to the water. One might be tempted to 
 believe that Spenser had this place also in his recol- 
 lection when he wrote the following lines : 
 
 And nigh thereto a little chappel stoode. 
 Which, being all with yvy overspred, 
 
128 
 
 I>eckt all the roofe, and, shadowing the roodd, 
 Seem*d like a grove fair braunched over hed. 
 
 From the architecture of the door-case,* which has 
 a Saxon arch decorated with chevron ornaments, I 
 should suppose that this building was of a date sub- 
 sequent to that of the church. One half of this door- 
 case alone remains perfect ; the other part has been 
 plastered and bedaubed with red clay, with an endea- 
 vour to make it corresponds On removing a broad 
 stone near the entrance of the door, some time ago^ 
 a great quantity of human bones v/as found heaped 
 together* Perhaps these were the bones of the clergy 
 and those who were slain in the cemetery, as the An- 
 nals mention ; and over whom, to expiate the sacri- 
 lege, the descendants of the murderers had erected 
 a chapel for the orisons that, according to the super- 
 stitious custom of the times, would daily be poured 
 forth for the rest of their souls* 
 
 This little building has, within a few years, been 
 fitted up as a place of entertainment, under the pom- 
 pous appellation of the banqueting-house. The walls 
 at the inside have been smoothly plastered and whi- 
 tened ; two modern bow-windows have been opened 
 to the north and south, and the floor has been board- 
 ed. One cannot but deplore the frivolity of that taste 
 which has thus injudiciously metamorphosed it. The 
 
 * See the vignette in the title-page. 
 1 
 
129 
 
 changes which are effected by time, command our 
 reverence, and dispose the soul to contemplation : 
 but these discordant alterations of the works of an- 
 cient days untune the mind, and interrupt that course 
 of thought which the remains of antiquity are calcu- 
 lated to inspire. Skilful management might have ren- 
 dered it equally commodious, and, at the same time, 
 have preserved its proper character. Not only has 
 this little building been injured by the alterations al- 
 ready alluded to, but, as if purposely to diminish its 
 picturesque beauty, it has been surrounded with white 
 painted rails, trim gravel walks, and a thick thorn 
 hedge, which effectually excludes, on one side, the 
 view of the lake. 
 
 Though the abbey of Innisfallen was founded as 
 early as the sixth century, it does not follow, nor is 
 it indeed likely, that the walls, of which remains are 
 now visible, were erected at that remote period ; but 
 on this subject we can only indulge conjecture. The 
 history of monastic edifices in Ireland is involved in 
 impenetrable obscurity : little even of their decline 
 is known, but what can be collected from the statute- 
 books. 
 
 On an inquiry being made into the state of the re- 
 ligious houses of Ireland, under a commission ap- 
 pointed by King Henry the Eighth, it was found that 
 they all required a total reformation; and fourteen 
 abbots and ten priors, following the steps of their 
 
130 
 
 brethren in England, surrendered their rights and 
 possessions into the hands of the king. The religi- 
 ous houses over which they presided are particularly 
 mentioned in an act of the Irish parliament passed in 
 the year 1537.* Five years afterwards another act 
 was passed, to enable his majesty to take possession 
 of the property of all such religious houses as had 
 theretofore voluntarily surrendered, or that should 
 afterwards surrender, their rights, or be dissolved ; 
 and the superiors of all religious houses, then exist- 
 ing, were disqualified from alienating any part of 
 their property, except to his majesty. The act con- 
 chides with subjecting all the houses that had not 
 been dissolved to the visitation of the ordinary of the 
 diocese, or of such persons as the king should think 
 proper to appoint. 
 
 It may be presumed, however, that the superiors 
 of the monastic institutions of Kerry were not much 
 influenced by these regulations, as that county was 
 then a palatinate endowed with great privileges, whose 
 earls had repeatedly resisted the authority both of the 
 laws and of the king. Ware informs us, that during 
 the beginning of the reign of Henry the Eighth ,t 
 in consequence of the extraordinary powers assumed 
 by the Earls of Desmond, and the opinion that gene- 
 
 * 27 Hen. VIII. cap. xvi— 33 Hen. VIII. cap. v. 
 f Annals of Ireland. 
 
131 
 
 rally prevailed throughout the kingdom, of the ex- 
 emption of that county from the jurisdiction of the 
 Jaws, Kerry had become the resort of outlaws, and of 
 all persons in fear of legal punishment. In fact, we 
 find that it was not until ten years after the attainder 
 and death of the last Earl of Desmond,* in the reign 
 
 * The history of the last Earl of Desmond contains many inte- 
 resting particulars. After various changes of fortune, having fallen 
 into the power of the crown, he had been delivered as a state pri- 
 soner to the custody of the mayor of Dublin, who had orders to 
 provide him with good accommodation, and to indulge him in every 
 manner that was consistent with his safety. The mayor allowed 
 him to go abroad on his parole, excepting at the hours of noon and 
 night, when he was obliged to make his appearance. Desmond, for 
 a time, kept his parole very punctually ; but having one day ob- 
 tained permission to leave the city, to take the diversion of hunting, 
 he rode off from his attendants at full speed, and found means not 
 long afterwards to reach his own territory. A proclamation was im- 
 mediately issued, offering a reward of one thousand piounds in mo- 
 ney, and a pension of forty pounds a-year, to the person who should 
 take him alive ; and half that reward to him who should bring his 
 head. The earl, however, found a strong body of his adherents, 
 who pledged themselves in the most solemn manner to defend him 
 and his rights, so that the officers of the queen found it expedient 
 to open negociations with persons on his behalf. Concessions were 
 made on both sides, and he received forgiveness. Some time after- 
 wards he was again accused of treason ; but once more negoci- 
 ating, and making solemn protestations of fidelity for the future, he 
 was again pardoned and received into favour. It was discovered, 
 however, that, after all his promises, he maintained a secret corre- 
 spondence with those inveterate foes of Elizabeth, the Spaniards ; in 
 consequence of which a strong force was at last sent to compel him 
 to obedience. I'his force succeeded in defeating and dispersing the 
 main body of his adherents, and finally reduced Desmond himself 
 to the greatest extremity, so that many of his best friends began t^ 
 
132 
 
 of Queen Elizabeth, the great epoch of the settle- 
 ment of this county, and of the division of the lands, 
 that the monks were dispossessed of the abbey of In- 
 nisfallen,* and a grant of it made to Robert Collam. 
 
 forsake him. In this situation he was obliged to conceal himself; 
 and, partly to supply his immediate wants, partly from motives of 
 revenge, wandered about his own dominions, plundering such of his 
 people as had deserted him. One day he sent some of his servants 
 to take prey, near Tralee, a few miles distant from Killarney ; in 
 performing which service they seized upon some cows belonging ta 
 a poor woman. In the bitterness of her grief she went to the go- 
 vernor of Castlemain, who immediately ordered a party of soldiers 
 to accompany her in search of the plunderers. They followed the 
 tracks of the cattle until the close of day, when, weary with the pur-- 
 suit, they proposed to stop for the night in a wood. They had not 
 remained long in this position when one of the party espied a light, 
 at a considerable distance, through the trees, and eagerly hastening 
 towards it, they discovered that it proceeded from a hovel where an 
 old man was seated over a fire, with some people around him. A 
 soldier, of the name of Kelly, instantly rushed in, and smote the old 
 man with a sword upon the head and upon the arm. Terrified at 
 the suddenness of the assault, he cried out, in a plaintive voice. Oh 
 save me, Jbr I am the Earl of Desmond! But perceiving that his 
 wounds bled very profusely, and that he could not survive, the sol- 
 diers bade him prepare for death, and soon after cut off his head, 
 which was sent to England, and placed on a pole on London Bridge. 
 *' Such an end," says Camden, " had this once powerful man in 
 Ireland, who derived his pedigree from Maurice Fitzgerald of Wind- 
 sor, an Englishman of great renown, amongst the first conquerors 
 of Ireland, in the year 1170. He had very fair lands and posses*- 
 sions ; yea, whole provinces, with Kerry, a county palatine ; and, 
 of his own kindred, he had above five hundred gentlemen at his 
 own disposal." — Vide Camden's History of the Reign of Queen Eli- 
 zabeth, book iii. — Ware's Annals, in the Reigns of Henry tli^ 
 Eighth, Mary, and Elizabeth, — Peerage, under Earls ofKildarc* 
 * Monasticon Hib. Archdall. — Aud. Gen. 
 
133 
 
 Its possessions were estimated at three plough lands, 
 containing one hundred and twenty acres of arable 
 land, with the appurtenances. But this abbey, as well 
 as that of Irrelagh, granted at the same time to Ro- 
 bert Collam, certainly continued to be inhabited by 
 the monks long afterwards. The latter abbey under- 
 went a repair in the year 1626; and the plaster is 
 still fresh on a part of the walls of the church of In- 
 nisfallen. Probably the monks continued in it until 
 they were driven out by the parliamentary army. 
 
 Innisfallen island is the only one in this part of the 
 lake which possesses a very attractive aspect. The 
 rest are elevated but little above the surface of tlie 
 water ; and the few trees which spring up between 
 the rocks are stunted. Brown or Rabbit island is the 
 next in size to that of Innisfallen : its solitary situa- 
 tion, in the centre of the broadest part of the lower 
 lake, alone renders it conspicuous ; but, far from 
 being any embellishment, it may rather be deemed 
 injurious to the scene : it interferes very much with 
 the prospect from the western shores of Innisfallen, 
 by concealing the woods about the river Laune, and 
 the bold sweep of the mountainous shore ; it also di- 
 minishes the breadth and importance of the water. 
 The aspect, however, of this island, and its general 
 effect in the landscape, will probably be very diffe- 
 rent when the trees with which it has been lately 
 planted are full grown. The time may come when it 
 
1S4< 
 
 will be admired for the beauty and richness of its 
 woods ; whilst Innisfallen, if we may prognosticate 
 from the ravages committed at Ross, stripped of its 
 noble trees, will be passed without notice. 
 
 In crossing from Innisfallen towards the mountains, 
 a large expanse of the lake unfolds itself to the eye, 
 and the water displays more breadth than it does 
 from any other position. The view of the various 
 islands as you proceed towards Glena bay, is ex- 
 tremely interesting ; their shores are very intricate, 
 and through the passages between them delightful 
 vistas open in succession. The line of the mountain- 
 ous shore, on the contrary, from Glena point to the 
 river Laune, is remarkable for its simplicity, and 
 forms a striking contrast to that of the islands. Glena 
 mountain, on the side which overhangs the bay of 
 the same name, is thickly clothed with ancient woods, 
 which are partially seen from Innisfallen : in other 
 parts it has no trees, except a few sapling oaks which 
 grow among the rocks. This naked part of the moun- 
 tain, at a distance, exhibits an aspect of tame unifor- 
 mity, or only appears diversified by occasional varia- 
 tions in its hues. On approaching nearer to it, the 
 lighter shades put on the green livery of cultivated 
 fertility, while the more sombre ones develop exten- 
 sive heaths, interspersed with rocks, and animated 
 with innumerable herds. Here and there a solitary 
 cottage rears its head, and enlivens the scene by the 
 
135 
 
 introduction of those images that are the usual con- 
 comitants of the social abodes of man. A singularly 
 pleasing effect, sometimes, arises from the glimmer- 
 ing lights which after nightfall emanate from the win- 
 dows of these little habitations, and play on the sur- 
 face of the lake, 
 
 like starry light, 
 
 Which, sparkling on the silent waves, doth seem more bright. 
 
 When first I visited Killarney, innumerable lights 
 gleamed every evening from the darkened brows of 
 these mountains, and, being reflected and multiplied 
 on the water, afforded a strange contrast to the so- 
 lemnity of the surrounding scene, that reminded one 
 of the fabulous description of fairy lands. They pro- 
 ceeded from the fires of the people who at that pe- 
 riod w^ere engaged in felling the trees, and in manu- 
 facturing wooden wares : for in this country, instead 
 of bringing the wood to their established. work-shops, 
 various artificers, such as coopers,- turners, carpen- 
 ters, hoop-makers, &c., repair to the forest, in the 
 summer season, and there build themselves huts, in 
 which they reside as long as they find opportunity of 
 providing themselves with materials for exercising 
 their respective trades. 
 
 In coasting down the lake, under the mountains, 
 less gratification arises from the distant prospect than 
 from an examination of the objects on the neighbour- 
 
136 
 
 ing shore. Along the water's edge, the base of the 
 mountain near Glena point is covered with huge 
 masses of rocks, which have fallen from the lofty pin- 
 nacles above ; others, which seem dependent on a 
 very slight support, may be observed on the heights, 
 apparently ready to yield to the first shock, and 
 threatening destruction to those who sail beneath. 
 Further down the lake, the shores are more uniform, 
 and the rocks assume a less menacing aspect. After 
 passing for about a mile along a naked coast, a thick 
 wood is seen, which extends from the water, a consi- 
 derable way up the adjacent heights ; and, on reaching 
 its confines, a small pier, formed of rude stone, is per- 
 ceived, beside a little stream, which, issuing through 
 the trees, runs gurgling into the lake. It invites one to 
 land : the sound of falling water soon strikes the ear ; 
 and on following a narrow path, which winds among 
 the rocks and underwood, it is found to lead to a 
 cascade, named after O' Sullivan, the ancient lord of 
 the country. The cascade consists of three distinct 
 and successive falls, each receding a few feet behind 
 the other ; but which, if view^ed from a rock in the 
 centre of the stream, being all seen in the same line, 
 appear like one : the most considerable of them is 
 about fifteen feet in height. From its agitation 
 amongst rocks during its course down the sides of 
 the mountain, the water is converted to foam, whose 
 brilliancy and whiteness are augmented by the con- 
 
137 
 
 trast of the deep gloom of impending oaks on either 
 side of the cascade. Long before it reaches the prin- 
 cipal fall, the stream is perceived, at a distance, 
 sparkling through the trees ; and, in some places, it 
 seems to gush from the very branches. 
 
 In a country less varied by the bold works of na- 
 ture, this cascade would excite general admiration ; 
 but its extent is disproportionate to the other parts 
 of the scenery. On a mountain of such large dimen- 
 sions as that of Tomies, expectation anticipates a 
 wilder and more considerable fall of water, so that 
 the first sight of it is often productive of disappoint- 
 ment ; but, during the height of summer, it is scarce- 
 ly possible to conceive a more delightful retreat than 
 this spot affords from the scorching rays which dart 
 upon the bare rocks of the mountain. 
 
 Hie gelidi fontes— 
 Hie nemus 
 
 From the woods which border upon O'SuUivan's cas- 
 cade, some idea may be formed of the injuries the 
 scenery has sustained from the destruction of the vast 
 forests which a few years ago clothed these moun* 
 tains. Amidst the general ruin, it may, indeed, be 
 considered as an act of more than ordinary clemency, 
 that the cascade itself was not stripped of the trees 
 which adorn it. At Benson's point, and on some 
 other parts of the shore, in the autumn of the year 
 
138 
 
 1 804, a few small groves still remained to embellish 
 the landscape ; but preparations were then making 
 to remove even these remnants of the mountain 
 woods, and all of them, I fear, have already fallen. 
 
 The lake under 0*Sullivan's cascade, and along 
 the whole coast between Burnt-island and Benson's 
 point, wears a solemn and gloomy aspect, occasioned 
 by the deep shadows which are cast over it by the 
 mountains, and more particularly so in calm weather, 
 when partial lights are no longer reflected on its un- 
 dulations. The water itself appears so very dark, that 
 one would be apt to imagine it was discoloured ; ne- 
 vertheless it is remarkably clear and transparent, so 
 that bright objects may be distinguished at a consi- 
 derable depth below the surface. The coast at the 
 base of Tomies mountain is less steep and less rocky 
 than it is under Glena ; and it gradually loses its rug- 
 gedness as it approaches to the river Laune. Be- 
 tween Benson's point and Pallice, the ancient family 
 seat of Macarthy-more, it rises in an easy slope, af- 
 fording, from nature, every facility for cultivation. 
 
 As the line of this coast is neither remarkable for 
 its intricacy or variety, curiosity is soon gratified in 
 this part of the lake. The best view it affords is one 
 which suddenly opens on passing Benson's point, dis- 
 covering, in the distance, beyond the mountain im- 
 mediately bordering on the lake, the blue craggy 
 tops of Magilly cuddy's reeks. 
 
139 
 
 The river Laune, which contributes so much to 
 the beauty of the landscape, when seen from the hills, 
 excites little interest, on a nearer approach, when be- 
 held from the level of the lake. The entrance of the 
 river is spacious, and has the appearance of a bay ; 
 but it is difficult of access, owing to the numerous 
 rocks and sand-bars. Some long poles fixed to the 
 large rocks serve to point out the passage ; and it is 
 soon known when a boat has got into the proper chan- 
 nel, for the rapidity of the stream hurries it down with 
 a force not easily counteracted. The waters of the 
 river Laune are peculiarly clear, and great numbers 
 of fish may generally be seen in it, amongst which 
 trout are most common : It is esteemed, indeed, one 
 of the best places for angling in Killarney. At a 
 short distance from the entrance, the banks of the ri- 
 ver become very bold on each side ; and they pre- 
 serve the same character as far as Grinagh, the seat 
 of Major Bland : below this place they lose their ex- 
 treme steepness, and then, gradually sinking, end at 
 length in a broad open strand, over which the stream 
 ripples, being very much dilated. The seasons occa- 
 sion a very extraordinary difference in the appear- 
 ance of this river ; for over these shallow places, which 
 in summer one might almost step across, vessels of 
 forty tons burthen, built on the banks of the lake for 
 the navigation of the sea, are easily transported, after 
 the lake has been swollen by rains. Every impedi- 
 
140 
 
 ment to their descent is then removed, excepting 
 that of the bridge below Dunloh, whose ^rches, when 
 filled by the waters, will not admit a boat to pass, and 
 thus occasion a temporary delay until the violence of 
 the flood subsides. It is the opinion of engineers 
 who have been employed to make the survey, that, 
 with the aid of a few short canals and locks, in places 
 where the navigation of the river is obstructed by 
 rocks and shallows, a passage, commodious at all 
 times, might be opened from the lake to the sea. At 
 present the country is too poor to bear the expense 
 of such an undertaking ; but if the mines on the bor- 
 ders of the lake continue to be productive, it will pro* 
 bably be attempted at no distant period. 
 
 The hills on the northern shore of the lake slope 
 gradually down to the water^s edge. They are culti- 
 vated, and divided by numerous enclosures, and stud- 
 ded with houses, whose appearance, at a distance* 
 gives an air of liveliness to the scene ; but, on a near- 
 er approach, the nakedness of the land is exposed to 
 view. Many of the houses stand in open fields, with- 
 out a tree or even a bush to afford them shelter ; and 
 being whitened entirely over, the roofs not excepted, 
 (an odious practice prevalent in many parts of Ire- 
 land) they have a cold and comfortless aspect, which 
 reminds one of the snows of winter. Though the 
 northern shore appears the less pleasing the nearer 
 it is approached, it nevertheless will be found de- 
 
i 
 
141 
 
 sirable, in returning from the river Laune towards 
 Ross, to keep close along it, for the sake of behold- 
 ing the mountains on the opposite side of the lake, 
 of which the spectator commands a more advanta- 
 geous view the further he retires from their base. Of 
 their general appearance some idea may be formed 
 from the view of Mahony's point taken from the 
 banks of the lake. The more elevated points are 
 Magilly cuddy's reeks, which display a very curious 
 and sudden break between two of the loftiest peaks ; 
 the mountain beneath them, which borders the lake, 
 is a part of Tomies. 
 
 Mahony's point affords a considerable relief to the 
 tameness and uniformity of the northern shore. Some 
 large trees grow upon it, concealed amongst which 
 there is a small lodge, occasionally occupied by the 
 proprietor in the fishing and shooting seasons. 
 
 At a short distance from Mahony's point another 
 long neck of land projects into the lake, which con- 
 tributes to give variety and intricacy to the shores. 
 On passing it, an extensive bay opens bounded by 
 hills, on which are seen several gentlemen's seats, at 
 different elevations, encircled by woods. These hills 
 have a very charming aspect from the mouth of the 
 bay; but, like others in the same range, when ap- 
 proached too closely, they cease to display those tra- 
 ces of cultivation and improvement which pleased at 
 a distance. The seats which appeared to embellish 
 
142 
 
 the shores are found to be situated remotely from it ; 
 and what the eye had converted into verdant lawns 
 before them, sloping down to the margin of the 
 lake, proves to be a swamp overrun with furze and 
 brambles. 
 
 Beyond this bay we again reach the flat shore in 
 the vicinity of the river Denagh ; and here termi- 
 nates our investigation of the western division of the 
 lower lake. The eastern part, to which we next pro- 
 ceed, may be entered from the bay of Ross, either 
 by passing through the narrow channel which sepa- 
 rates Ross island from the main shore, or by going 
 round the point of the island opposite Innisfallen : 
 the latter route is by much the most agreeable, on 
 account of the extent and diversity of the prospect 
 which it commands on every side. The very striking 
 view which opens from the point of Ross island has 
 already been mentioned. From the point, Tomies 
 mountain alone is seen j but, on advancing further 
 into the lake, and coasting along the shores of the 
 island, Glena mountain soon appears, displaying not 
 only its rocks and precipices on the side which is ex- 
 posed to the broad part of the lake, but likewise the 
 extensive forests which overhang the bay. The craggy 
 tops of the mountains of the defile leading to the up- 
 per lake next open to view 5 and to the left of these 
 appear Turk, Mangerton, and the other mountains 
 
 5 
 
143 
 
 of the great frontier chain, gradually retiring in tlie 
 distance. 
 
 The coast of Ross island, on the side which is ex- 
 posed to the broad part of the lake, is still more di- 
 versified than on the opposite one which bounds the 
 bay. Its promontories are bolder ; its bays and inlets 
 deeper. One of the latter runs nearly across the 
 island, and, in fact, when the water rises much above 
 its ordinary level, communicates with Ross bay at the 
 opposite side, and divides it into two distinct parts. 
 The beauty of this inlet, before the w^oods were felled, 
 surpassed that of every other on the confines of the 
 lake. Its shores were then covered with majestic 
 oaks, of which some were rooted in the clefts of steep 
 and lofty rocks ; whilst others, growing in the low 
 ground, near the water, dipped their branches into 
 the very waves. In the distance, through the tufted 
 foliage, rose the mossy towers of Ross castle ; and as 
 the exact termination of the water was undefined, it 
 bore the semblance of a spacious river, whose course 
 was carried, by the imagination, beneath the very 
 walls of the old fortress. To the eye which had never 
 beheld this island when every promontory was adorn- 
 ed with full-grown trees, and every creek and inlet 
 sheltered by an impervious skreen, its wild and naked 
 rocks will display innumerable charms ; but to him 
 who recollects their former lovely clothing, they now 
 appear bleak and desolate, and awaken the most lively 
 
H4f 
 
 regret for the melancholy change they have under- 
 gone. 
 
 In the interval between Ross and Mucruss are a 
 multitude of islands, whose variety in size and cha- 
 racter is almost as extensive as their numbers. Some 
 consist of naked rocks, which, having yielded to the 
 constant attrition of the water, now display the most 
 fantastic forms. One, which has been undermined 
 except in the centre, where it remains partially sup- 
 ported by short thick pillars, has received the name 
 of O'Donaghoe's Table ; another, from a remote re- 
 semblance to a colossal figure of a horse in the atti- 
 tude of drinking, is denominated the Horse of the 
 same legendary hero. The larger islands in the clus- 
 ter are covered with thickets, which contain, in ge- 
 neral, a profusion of evergreens. The Cow and the 
 Rough islands are the most extensive. In the inter- 
 vals between the trees, and amongst the rocks along 
 the shores of these islands, there are small patches of 
 coarse herbage : nor do they lie neglected ; for, in 
 the beginning of summer, cattle are regularly trans- 
 ported thither, as to a secure place, and left until the 
 inclemency of the season and the deficiency of food 
 render it necessary to provide them with better ac- 
 commodation. The occasional appearance of these 
 poor animals, rambling among the thickets, or stand- 
 ing on the rocks to gaze at the boats which approach 
 their insulated territories, is extremely interesting. 
 
145 
 
 Some of them seem contented with their narrow 
 boundaries ; whilst others, ill at ease, express their 
 dissatisfaction by lowd bellowings ; and, roving from 
 time to time around the confines of their little island, 
 appear in eager search of some means of escape. 
 
 The flat on each side of the river Flesk is the least 
 interesting part of the boundary of the eastern divi- 
 sion of the lake, and yet it contributes considerably 
 to the general effect of the scenery j for when the 
 eye, after having dwelt on it for a few minutes, turns 
 round towards the mountains, they appear to have 
 acquired additional height, and the woods and rocks 
 more wildness and variety. It is covered with coarse 
 grass, intermixed with rushes and flaggers, and ter- 
 minates, at the margin of the lake, in a shelving 
 sandy beach, which precludes the near approach of 
 a boat. 
 
 The casual appearance of cattle is the chief source 
 of variety along this shore : 
 
 On the grassy bank 
 
 Some ruminating lie ; while others stand 
 Half in the flood, and, often bending, sip 
 The circling surface. 
 
 Their groups sometimes appear to great advantage, 
 relieved by the dark oak woods of Cahirnane, which 
 skirt a considerable part of the plain* 
 
 The coast of Mucruss, commencing at the little 
 stream which falls into Castle lough bay, presents, as 
 
 K 
 
146 
 
 far as the eye can reach, a chain of steep rocks thickly 
 covered with trees, whose aspect at a distance is 
 tame and uniform ; but a. near approach discovers 
 infinite variety. The rocks exhibit the wildest irre- 
 gularities. Along the peninsula they have been un- 
 dermined, like those of the islands, by the attrition 
 of the waves, so that in many places large masses 
 have been left impending over the lake. Traces may 
 be discovered where similar masses, deprived in the 
 course of time of support, have fallen with their su- 
 perincumbent trees. Those which fell where the wa- 
 ter was deep were swallowed up, and are seen no 
 more ; or, if seen, appear only beneath the surface : 
 others, which have tumbled in shallower places, form 
 little promontories along the shore, or small islands, 
 vv^hich are still shaded by the trees which they carried 
 with them in their fall. The forms of these trees are 
 unusually fanciful and picturesque ; in many instan- 
 ces their roots appear exposed on the summit of the 
 rocks, whilst their flourishing branches, extended 
 along the surface of the lake, dip their quivering 
 leaves into the water. 
 
 The mansion-house of Mucruss looks extremely 
 well from the water, relieved by the gloomy and so- 
 lemn heights of Mangerton mountain ; and the lawns 
 in its vicinity have a most delightful aspect, opening 
 between the groves which adorn the shores. Along 
 the peninsula, the numerous little inlets and promon- 
 
147 
 
 tones keep the attention constantly awake. Some of 
 its coves are most romantic, particularly one near 
 Juniper island, which, being completely land-lock- 
 ed, and sheltered on every side from the blast by 
 tall trees and steep rocks, has been selected as a ha- 
 ven for Colonel Herbert's large sailing-boats, where 
 they ride at anchor with their masts and yards almost 
 in contact with the branches. 
 
 At the head of another cove the curious separation 
 of the calcareous and siliceous rocks is observable, 
 which has been already mentioned in the description 
 of the peninsula. One side of this cove exhibits a 
 steep and lofty cliff of massive blue limestone, whilst 
 the opposite one shows the deep brown stratified si- 
 liceous shelving down to the water. Towards Camil- 
 lan point, the siliceous rocks lose this stratified ap- 
 pearance, and rise in bold and broad masses ; but the 
 eye, at a considerable distance, may trace the dis- 
 tinction between them and the calcareous rocks, as 
 well by the difference of their colour as by that of 
 their arrangement. 
 
 The last place which now remains to be described 
 on the lower lake is the bay of Glena, which suddenly 
 opens to view on passing round the point of Camil- 
 lan. This is one of the magnificent scenes which cap- 
 tivates every eye, and which, if Killarney were di- 
 vested of every other charm, would in itself amply 
 compensate for the toils of traversing the dreary and 
 
148 
 
 rugged country, through which alone the lake can 
 be approached. On one side, rising from the water's 
 edge, appears a steep mountain, from whose brow 
 
 Th* embowering forests overhang the deep ; 
 
 on the opposite one a chain of low rocks surmounted 
 with trees ; and in the centre, at a distance, is seen 
 the entrance of the defile, through which the river 
 from the upper lake flows into the head of the bay. 
 The length of the bay is about one English mile ; its 
 breadth nearly the same ; but, owing to the nume- 
 rous inlets and promontories with which the shore is 
 indented, its extent appears considerably greater. 
 At the base of the mountain, along the margin of 
 the lake, the individual forms of the branching oaks 
 are distinctly seen ; but the trees which rise above 
 these grow so closely together, that their united 
 foliage forms an impervious and continuous shade, 
 swelling with the protuberances of the mountain, or 
 sinking with its glens, and interrupted alone by sud- 
 den precipices or huge projecting rocks. From the 
 mouth of the bay to the most distant part of the 
 horizon, along the windings of the defile, all is one 
 sylvan scene : 
 
 Shade above shade, a woody theatre 
 Of statehest view. 
 
 Every gradation of green is observable in these woods 
 
lilflllll 
 
149 
 
 during summer, from the silvery hues of the ash and 
 willow to the deep verdure of the fir and yew ; and 
 in autumn, when they are enriched by<;olours " whose 
 beauty cheers the approach of the inclement season 
 they forebode," the variety of the foliage, and the 
 brilliant reflection of the innumerable tints upon the 
 water, surpass all description. 
 
 Within the forest, at a short distance from the wa- 
 ter, there is a wild path amongst the rocks, leading 
 from the point of Glena to a cottage at the head of 
 the bay. In following its devious course, the eye is 
 bewildered amongst the romantic beauties of the 
 scene, whether it penetrates into the gloomy recesses 
 of the mountain beneath the rocky cliffs, or, from the 
 openings on the verge of the wooded glens, surveys 
 the distant prospect of the lake and islands. Innu- 
 merable rills fall in cascades from the mountain 
 height, sparkling 
 
 Within the twilight of the distant shade : 
 
 these, as they descend through the forest, unite into 
 larger streams; and, tumbling over rocks covered 
 with moss, and decayed trees which have fallen across 
 their course, run foaming into the lake. The appa- 
 rent wildness of this scene is not surpassed by that 
 of the forests of America ; and its solitude might be 
 imagined as deep, were not the dream interrupted 
 by the appearance of a painted boat, with its gay 
 
ISO 
 
 company, on the lake beneath, or by the sound of 
 music reverberated from the rocks of the mountain. 
 From the very delightful effect of the echoes, un- 
 der the wooded shores of Glena, few parties visit this 
 part of the lake unattended by musicians, if it is pos- 
 sible to procure them. I was once at Killarney with 
 a party of ladies, who, enamoured of the charms of 
 the scene and the effect of music on the water, were 
 tempted to remain in the bay until midnight. The 
 day had been sultry in the extreme ; but with night- 
 fall a gentte breeze had arisen, just sufficient to ruffle 
 the surface of the water. The moon at the same time 
 was seen emerging from behind the woods, on the 
 mountain top, 
 
 with lessening orb 
 
 And silver aspect, climbing through the leaves 
 And thinner spray. 
 
 The musicians, in a separate boat, were kept at such 
 a distance that the notes might reach the ear soften- 
 ed by their passage over the water, and the oars were 
 only occasionally plied, to preserve a proper interval. 
 The effect of music under such circumstances may 
 be more easily conceived than described j 
 
 The silver-sounding instruments did meet 
 With the base murmure of the water's fall. 
 The water's fall, with difference discreet. 
 Now soft, now loud, unto the wind did call ; 
 The gentle warbling wind low answered to all, 
 : 8 
 
151 
 
 He who has never sailed along the shores of Glena by 
 the light of the moon, nor ever listened to the dying 
 cadence of the echoes during the stillness of the 
 night, may be justly pronounced a stranger to the 
 most fascinating charms of Killarney. 
 
 Painful is the task which now devolves upon me 
 of relating that the woods of Glena, its glory and its 
 ornament for ages, have been consigned, for a trifling 
 consideration, to the timber-merchant. Cold must 
 be the heart of that man, and insensible to the beau- 
 ties of nature, who, conscious of their impending 
 fate, could behold their romantic and venerable shade 
 without heaving a sigh. Their sentence, I fear, has 
 been inconsiderately pronounced, and hastily execu- 
 ted. Already had the woodmen, when last I visited 
 Killarney, commenced their ravages ; and, at the 
 moment in which I write, Glena may mourn her de- 
 nuded rocks and leafless glens. 
 
 Much, however, as the loss of these woods is to 
 be lamented, the alteration which their removal will 
 occasion, in the general effect of the landscape, will 
 probably be less severely felt than that which has re- 
 sulted from cutting down the woods at Ross island. 
 The latter contributed to adorn the shores of the 
 lake, in a part where embellishment was most want- 
 ing ; and the ground upon which they grew being 
 comparatively low, the height of the trees was fully 
 observable ; the castle of Ross also, just rising above 
 
252 
 
 them, had a beautiful effect, and acquked increased 
 dignity in the landscape, from their surrounding 
 shade. The woods of Glena, on the contrary, being 
 all disposed on the slope of a mountain, and so thickly 
 interwoven that none of the stems of the trees were 
 visible through the foliage, could scarcely be distin- 
 guished, at the distance of a mile, from a coppice-^ 
 wood j and a few years will be sufficient to produce 
 other trees, which will conceal the nakedness of the 
 mountain, and again exhibit, equally with those of 
 larger growth, the variety and beauty of autumnal 
 tints. But, on advancing into the bay of Glena, and 
 approaching nearer to the mountain-shore, the me- 
 lancholy deficiency must but too plainly be observed : 
 it will be like entering the tenantless mansion of a 
 departed friend, whose presence had given animation 
 and pleasure to the now deserted scene. 
 
 The red deer still runs wild on Glena, and perpe- 
 tuates its race, amidst its native woods, alike unpro- 
 tected and uncontrolled by man. The liberty of the 
 chase, which constitutes a leading object of interest 
 at Killarney, is readily granted on the solicitations o£ 
 strangers. The expense, however, which attends the 
 indulgence, and the precariousness of its ultimate 
 success, contribute to prevent the frequency of its 
 recurrence. Whenever, therefore, a hunt is announ- 
 ced, it is expected with all that anxiety, and welco- 
 med with all that joy, which are usually attendant 
 
15S 
 
 upon events calculated to gratify public curiosity, or 
 favour idleness. Immense crowds of people never 
 fail to appear on the appointed day ; every boat on 
 the lake is put into requisition ; and if a sufficient 
 number of vessels could be procured to convey the 
 whole population of Killarney to the shores of Glena, 
 it might be apprehended that the whole town would 
 be left destitute of inhabitants. 
 
 On the day preceding the hunt, those preparations 
 are made which are thought best calculated to en- 
 sure it a happy issue. An experienced person is sent 
 up the mountain to search for the herd, and watch 
 its motions, in patient silence, till night comes on. 
 The deer which remains the most aloof from its com- 
 panions is carefully observed, and marked as the ob- 
 ject of pursuit ; and it is generally found, at the dawn 
 of the ensuing morning, in the vicinity of the evening 
 haunt. Before the break of day, the dogs are con- 
 ducted up the mountain as silently and secretly as 
 possible, and are kept coupled, until some signal, 
 commonly the firing of a small cannon, announces 
 that the party commanding the hunt has arrived in 
 boats at the foot of the mountain. Then the dogs 
 are loosed, and brought upon the track of the deer. 
 If the business, previous to the signal, has been si- 
 lently and orderly conducted, the report of the can- 
 non, the sudden shouts of the hunters on the moun* 
 tain, which instantly succeed it ; the opening of the 
 
154 
 
 dogs, and the loud and continued echoes, along an 
 extensive region of woods and mountains, produce an 
 effect singularly grand. 
 
 Tremble the forests round ; the joyous cries 
 
 Float through the vales ; and rocks, and woods, and hills. 
 
 Return the varied sounds. 
 
 The deer, upon being roused, generally endeavours 
 to gain the summit of the mountains, that he may 
 the more readily make his escape across the open 
 heath to some distant retreat. To prevent this, num- 
 bers of people are stationed, at intervals, along the 
 heights, who, by loud shouting, terrify the animal 
 and drive him towards the lake. At the last hunt 
 which I attended, a company of soldiers were placed 
 along the mountain-top, who, keeping up a running 
 fire, effectually deterred him from once ascending. 
 The hunt, however, begins to lose its interest after 
 the first burst, and the ear becomes wearied with the 
 incessant shouts which drown the opening of the 
 hounds, and the echoes of their mellow tones. The 
 ruggedness of the ground embarrasses the pursuers ; 
 the scent is followed with difficulty, and often lost al- 
 together, or only resumed at the end of a long inter- 
 val : much confusion also arises from the emulous ef- 
 forts of the people on the water to follow the course 
 of the hunt, especially if it should take a direction to- 
 wards the upper lake, when the contending boats are 
 frequently entangled among the rocks and shoals of 
 
155 
 
 the river which leads to it. Those who attempt to 
 follow the deer through the woods are rarely grati- 
 fied with a view, and are often excluded from the 
 grand spectacle of his taking the soil, or, in other 
 words, plunging into the lake. It is therefore gene- 
 rally recommended to remain in a boat ; and those 
 who have the patience to wait as long as five or six 
 hours, are seldom disappointed. I was once gratified 
 by seeing the deer run, for near a mile, along the 
 shore, with the hounds pursuing him in full cry. On 
 finding himself closely pressed, he leaped boldly from 
 a rock into the lake, and swam towards one of the 
 islands; but, terrified by the approach of the boats, 
 he returned, and once more sought for safety on the 
 main shore : soon afterwards, in a desperate effort to 
 leap across a chasm between two rocks, his strength 
 failed him, and he fell exhausted to the bottom. It 
 was most interesting to behold the numerous specta- 
 tors who hastened to the spot ; ladies, gentlemen, 
 peasants, hunters, combined in various groups around 
 the noble victim, as he lay extended in the depth of 
 the forest. The stag, as is usual on these occasions, 
 was preserved from death. 
 
 Whether the red deer will long preserve their num- 
 bers, after the woods of Glena, which have hitherto 
 afforded them such shelter, are cut, appears very 
 questionable. For a series of years past they have 
 continued much in the same proportion. Very few 
 
156 
 
 »re destroyed in the chase with which parties are in- 
 dulged J for, when the animal enters the water, as he 
 generally does, it is easy for persons in boats to take 
 him ahve and uninjured. It appeared from the marks 
 on the ears of the last I saw taken, that the same mis- 
 chance had befallen him twice before. The day af- 
 ter the hunt, he was a third time, to the amusement 
 of a large party of ladies and gentlemen, turned out 
 of a stable at Colonel Herbert's, and liberated in 
 Mucruss demesne ; from which place, it was presu- 
 med, he would soon escape, and, by swimming across 
 the lake, regain his favourite abode on the side of 
 Glena. 
 
 Some years ago the deer descended from the moun- 
 tains in great numbers, swam across the river, and 
 committed such depredations among the young plan- 
 tations at Mucruss, that the proprietor of that beau- 
 tiful demesne was obliged to order all the interlopers 
 to be shot : this reception soon taught the herds to 
 keep within the bounds of their own forests. To 
 other dangers I have not heard of their being expo- 
 sed ; even the marauders of the country, except in 
 rare instances, are said to respect them. 
 
 The bay of Glena is remarkable for the best sal- 
 mon fishery on the lake. This, and the other fisheries, 
 are leased out at a small annual rent, under a con- 
 dition that no more than two-pence a-pound shall be 
 demanded for the produce in the town of Killarney, 
 
157 
 
 All persons, however, are freely allowed to angle in the 
 lake and in its rivers. The nets are commonly cast 
 along a spacious inlet, just under Glena mountain, 
 where occasionally very large draughts offish are ta- 
 ken ; and, in the season, they are seldom drawn with- 
 out taking som^. At all entertainments on the lake, 
 salmon forms an essential part of the feast. The men, 
 for a small gratuity, will postpone drawing their nets 
 till the time of dinner approaches, and an hour after 
 the fish swims in the lake it is served at table. The 
 mode of dressing it, in which the men display much 
 expertness, is to divide it into pieces of moderate 
 size, which are roasted on fresh-cut twigs of the ar- 
 butus tree, stuck in the ground before a smart fire 
 made of dried leaves and sticks. They pretend that 
 the arbutus wood adds considerably to the flavour of 
 the fish ; but it is merely chosen, I believe, on ac- 
 count of its hardness, and the convenience of its fork- 
 ed shape. 
 
 The quality of salmon caught in different places 
 varies very much, and is dependent, no doubt, upon 
 their food, and the different nature of the waters in 
 which they are taken, whether salt or fresh ; and al- 
 so upon the distance of the rivers or lakes which they 
 frequent from the ocean, and the facility with which 
 they can be ascended. In the opinion of many who 
 have had an opportunity of making a fair compari- 
 son, the preference is given, and, perhaps, with jus* 
 
158 
 
 tice, to the salmon found in the lakes and rivers 
 along the western coast ; among which that of Kil- 
 larney is held in great estimation. 
 
 At the head of Glena bay, on the verge of the 
 woods, there is a small cottage, which appears in the 
 distance in the view of the bay. It was built as a 
 place of entertainment by the proprietor of this part 
 of the lake j and is left open for the accommodation 
 of strangers. It contains two rooms, which com- 
 mand very agreeable prospects of the lake, and a 
 kitchen, the convenience of which occasions it to be 
 frequently selected as a place for refreshment and 
 repose. 
 
 The low shore which bounds the bay of Glena on 
 the side next to Turk lake, is extremely beautiful, 
 although it possesses none of those bold features which 
 characterize the mountain. Adorned, like the other 
 parts of the peninsula, with forest-trees, shrubs, and 
 evergreens, all wildly intermingled, its rocky promon- 
 tories and deep recesses are equally varied and nu- 
 merous. The shattered rocks which lie along the 
 coast appear, however, to have been detached from 
 the masses to which they once adhered, not by the 
 attrition of the waves of the lake, but rather by the 
 percolation of water from above, and the expansion 
 of the roots of the trees which grew between their 
 fissures. One of the most picturesque scenes along 
 this shore is a little wooded creek, at the head of 
 
159 
 
 which, resting upon rocks, appears the single-arched 
 bridge which connects the extremity of the penin- 
 sula with Brickeen island. Beneath the arch is seen 
 a considerable expanse of Turk lake, with a reach of 
 the opposite shore ; and in the distance rises Turk 
 mountain, whose gloomy brow forms an admirable 
 relief to the grey old walls of the bridge. 
 
 Turk lake may be entered either by the passage 
 under this bridge, or by coasting round the shores of 
 Dennis island, and following the course of the river 
 which flows into Glena bay. Each entrance is very 
 delightful ; but the latter claims the preference, on 
 account of the more sudden and unexpected view of 
 the lake which opens from it. The river, near the 
 termination of its course at the bay of Glena, is slug- 
 gish, and the bank low and sedgy ; but, as you as- 
 cend, it assumes a very different character. The 
 banks soon become steep and rugged, and the water, 
 confined within a narrower channel, rushes with great 
 impetuosity between the rocks. 
 
 To this great diversity is principally to be attri- 
 buted the pleasing impression which the scenery of 
 Killarney never fails to leave on the mind of every 
 visitor. After traversing the wide expanse of the 
 lower lake, surveying the beauties of its numerous 
 islands, and exploring the windings of its shores, 
 suddenly new and romantic passages open to view, 
 which lead to other lakes, and to other scenes, still 
 
160 . 
 
 more inviting than those which have already engaged 
 and delighted the eye. 
 
 The view upon this river is taken from the main 
 shorCj just at the bend under Dinis island, which ap- 
 pears on the left. The large mountain is that of 
 Turk. The river flows between this mountain and 
 the woods at its base ; and at the point of land, in 
 the centre of the picture, where the stems of the trees 
 are visible, it divides into two branches 5 one of which 
 turns off into Turk lake, whilst the other runs to- 
 wards the bay of Glena. 
 
 The branch of the river which falls into Turk lake 
 is so narrow, that the trees upon the opposite banks 
 almost touch. The channel is rocky and intricate 5 
 one boat only caii pass at a time, and seldom can 
 that one be conducted through without repeated con- 
 cussions. When at last it gets completely disengaged 
 from the rocks near the mouth of the river, the cur- 
 rent hurries it on with astonishing velocity, so that, 
 in a few seconds, it is drifted a considerable way into 
 the open lake. The eye, no longer restricted to the 
 close coverts of the woods, or to the dazzling motion 
 of the torrent, whose roar yet vibrates on the ear, 
 can now repose in tranquillity on the placid lake, or 
 range unconfined for miles along the distant shores. 
 So sudden is the transition, that the wondering senses 
 almost doubt of its reality ; and when, on turning 
 back, no traces can be discerned of the passage by 
 
161 
 
 which the boat entered, which is quickly concealed 
 by tufts of trees, the change appears less attributable 
 to the ordinary courses of nature than to the magic 
 influence of the Genius of the Lake. 
 
 The middle, or Turk lake, is about two English 
 miles in length, and somewhat less than one in 
 breadth : it is bounded on the south by Turk moun- 
 tain, from which it derives its name, and on the op- 
 posite side by the woods and rocks of the peninsula 
 of Mucruss. The mountain displays little variety 
 either in its water line or on its surface. It is mark- 
 ed by no bold precipices, by no glens ; and, though 
 it rises steeply from the lake, is in most parts easy of 
 access ; but the deep gloom which it spreads over 
 the water at its base gives solemnity to the scene. A 
 large tract of this mountain has been lately planted 
 by Colonel Herbert, which, when more advanced, 
 will diversify the surface and adorn the landscape. 
 The improvements of the same gentleman along the 
 eastern shore appear to much advantage from the 
 water. 
 
 The peninsula here presents nearly the same as- 
 pect as on the side which is washed by the lower 
 lake. Its rocks are excavated in a similar manner by 
 the attrition of the waves ; but they have been more 
 deeply undermined, and larger fragments of them 
 have been detached, and precipitated into the lake. 
 Nearly opposite to the mines, an immense mass of 
 
162 
 
 lock and eaith has fallen, which claims attention not 
 less on account of its picturesque form, than the ex- 
 traordinary mixture it exhibits of various mineral 
 substances. Devfl's island is also an object of curi- 
 osity ; though now considerably distant from the 
 shore, it appears evidently to have once formed a 
 part of the peninsula* 
 
 Such striking instances of the powerful operation 
 of the waves on this side of the peninsula, would lead 
 to a supposition that Turk was exposed to more fre- 
 quent and more violent storms than the lower lake ; 
 for the stone is nearly of the same quality. The fact, 
 however, is directly opposite; for the same winds 
 which disturb the former also affect the latter ; where« 
 as it frequently happens that the lower lake is much 
 agitated when the waters of Turk remain sheltered, 
 and present a smooth unruffled surface. 
 
 This difference cannot escape the observation of 
 persons who continue long at Eillarney. To parties 
 who have spent the day on the peaceful waters of 
 Turk, or on the upper lake, and who, while they ob- 
 serve the calm which reigns in those sheltered re- 
 gions, continue unsuspicious of the effects of the 
 wind in another quarter, it is often a source of sur- 
 prise and alarm to behold the heavy waves which 
 have arisen during their absence, rolling in the lower 
 lake, at the base of the mountains. Sometimes they 
 prove so boisterous, that it k found totally imprac* 
 
163 
 
 ticable to repass the lake in crowded boats ; and the 
 passengers, after landing, are obliged to regain the 
 town by the circuitous route of the peninsula. 
 
 The hoarse sound of the water dashing amongst 
 the rocks, the whistling of the wind through the 
 trees, and the gloomy aspect of the mountains frown- 
 ing through the clouds, contribute to give a most 
 awful effect to the storm. To behold the lake under 
 its influence may be desired by him who would look 
 on nature in all the varieties of sublime disorder ; but 
 it is only during a perfect Calm that the full beauties 
 of the scenery are displayed, when the deep shades 
 of the mountains and the images of the rocks and 
 trees are distinctly reflected on the glassy surface of 
 the water. 
 
 The islands of Brickeen and Dinis, at the western 
 extremity of Turk lake, differ alone from the penin- 
 sula in being less elevated above the water. Both are 
 thickly covered with trees, above the tops of which 
 are seen, at a ^hort distance, the hanging forests of 
 Glena ; the whole forming a sylvan scene rarely 
 equalled in richness and variety. Dinis is one of the 
 most delightful spots on Killarney, and is much re- 
 sorted to by parties of pleasure, for whose accommo- 
 dation there was formerly a neat little cottage in the 
 centre of the island, on the borders of a lawn sur- 
 rounded by woods. The materials of which it was 
 constructed were of a very perishable nature, and af- 
 
164 
 
 ter remaining for some time in a ruinous state, it was 
 pulled down. At present there is no building on the 
 island, except a small dwelling which is occupied by 
 the family of a wood-ranger. On the arrival of stran- 
 gers, some of the females generally appear, to wel- 
 come them to their shores, and guide them through 
 the romantic walks of the island. Groups of chil- 
 dren, pictures of innocence and health, also come 
 forward, in the season, with bowls of nuts or wild 
 strawberries, diffidently presenting their offerings, in 
 silent expectation of some trifling reward. 
 
 The island of Dinis affords a greater diversity of 
 prospect than any place of the same extent on the 
 confines of Killarney. On passing round its shores, 
 Turk lake, the bay of Glena, and the rapid river from 
 the upper lake, rushing in a torrent under the old 
 weir bridge, successively open to view. The tumul- 
 tuous motion of the stream amongst the rocks, and 
 its roaring sound echoed through the woods of the 
 island, add to the wild charms of the scene, and give 
 coolness and freshness to the shores, which render 
 them, during the summer season, a most delightful 
 retreat. 
 
 The rapidity of the current under the old weir 
 bridge, forms an impediment to the ascent of boats 
 not to be counteracted without considerable efforts, 
 and never fails to occasion much delay in proceeding 
 to the upper lake. To render the boats more ma- 
 
163 
 
 nageable, tlie passengers are always required to land, 
 and walk through tlie woods till they get above the 
 bridge ; and, even after being thus lightened, it re- 
 quires the united strength of nine or ten men to drag 
 a large boat against the stream. When the water is 
 low, as it commoply is during the dry months of 
 summer, the force of the current is more easily coun- 
 teracted ; but the channel is then so intricate, owing 
 to the shallowness of the water, that the boats fre- 
 quently become fastened, and can only be disenga- 
 ged by being lifted over the ledges of rocks, for which 
 purpose the men are obliged to go into the water. In 
 descending the stream during floods, and shooting 
 through the bridge, coolness and dexterity are no 
 less requisite than vigour and perseverance were du- 
 ring the ascent. 
 
 The bridge consists of two arches, of which one 
 alone affords a passage for boats ; the other is ob- 
 structed by a wall, built across the stream from the 
 central pier to the shore.* It was intended formerly 
 as part of a fishing weir, and is now left for the pur- 
 pose of deepening the channel at the opposite side. 
 
 Accidents have frequently occurred here during 
 floods. The following narration of one which hap- 
 pened a few years ago was communicated to me by 
 a relation of my own, who was a participator in the 
 
 * See the vignette on the first page. 
 
166 
 
 danger and escape. Returning at the close of day, 
 with a numerous company, from the shores of the 
 upper lake, a gentleman of the party, in a moment 
 of frolic, undertook to steer through the rapid. Not 
 having directed the boat, in time, into the proper 
 channel, it became ungovernable 5 and being hur- 
 ried towards the obstructed arch, was almost instan- 
 taneously drifted by the irresistible impetuosity of 
 the torrent, upon the top of the wall then covered 
 with water. In that situation it remained suspended 
 for some time, yielding alternately from side to side 
 to the preponderating power of the flood, and in im- 
 minent danger each moment of being overwhelmed. 
 The critical and perilous situation of those who re- 
 mained in it was seen by their companions on shore ; 
 but to relieve them was impossible. In the mean 
 time, the position of the boat was gradually altered 
 by the force of the current ; and at last, being sud- 
 denly swept oif, it was dashed with violence against 
 the central pier. The side was beaten in with a ter- 
 rible crash, and the oars and poles shivered to pieces. 
 Efforts were now made to relieve the sufferers ; who, 
 abandoning through terror the exertions calculated 
 to obtain safety, had prostrated themselves on their 
 knees in despair. Handkerchiefs were lowered from 
 the parapet pf the bridge, and the branches of the 
 neighbouring trees bent down for their support ; but 
 before their utility could be tried, the boat righted j 
 
167 
 
 and, being torn througli the obstructed arcli, where 
 never boat had passed before, floated without fur- 
 ther injury to the shores of Dinis. 
 
 I was tokl of another boat having been overset in 
 passing through this bridge, with two men, both of 
 whom instantly disappeared, and were not seen again 
 until they rose in Turk lake. One of them, a negro, 
 soon recovered the shock, and, being an excellent 
 swimmer, regained the shore in safety j but the other 
 had suffered so much from concussions against the 
 rocks, that he was rendered quite senseless, and in 
 that state was drifted by the current on the beach of 
 Dinis island. He was fortunately discovered before it 
 was too late, and, by continued and well-applied ex- 
 ertions, was restored to life. 
 
 At a short distance above the weir bridge the 
 stream appears quite placid, and in general it main- 
 tains this character throughout its course from the 
 upper lake, except in a few places where the channel 
 is contracted between rocks, or obstructed by bars 
 and shoals. When not flooded, its ordinary breadth 
 seldom exceeds fifteen yards ; but occasionally it ex- 
 pands to upwards of one hundred, whilst, at some of 
 the passes between the rocks, it is so narrow as not 
 to admit of more than one boat at a time. Its course 
 is very devious : sometimes running for a consider- 
 able distance close to the mountains, under immense 
 masses of rocks ^ sometimes meandering through the 
 
16a 
 
 centre of the defile, or dividing into branches, which, 
 after enclosing numerous little islands, unite again. 
 The scenery throughout is of the most picturesque 
 description, and highly varied, although there is but 
 little difference in the distance ; for on that part of 
 the river which lies above the Eagle's Nest, the pros- 
 pects looking downwards are invariably bounded by 
 Turk mountain, and, in the opposite direction, by 
 the great mountains beyond the upper lake. 
 
 These mountains, which rise on each side of the de- 
 file, or valley through which the river takes its course, 
 are not of great elevation ; and, with the exception 
 of the one known by the name of the Eagle's Nest, 
 are not distinguished either for the gracefulness or 
 boldness of their outHne : but the great diversity and 
 wildness of their surface are inexhaustible sources of 
 gratification, which keep the eye constantly engaged 
 during the w^hole passage from the old weir bridge to 
 the tipper lake. They display immense precipices, 
 and deep glens overhung with woods ; each glen af- 
 fords a channel to a mountain stream, and each 
 stream supplies a cascade. Many of these falls ap- 
 pear with inconceivable beauty sparkling through the 
 trees which shade their gloomy recesses ; whilst the 
 existence of others is only known by the sound of 
 their gushing waters. 
 
 Now tumbles o'er some rock their crystal pride ; 
 Sonorous now they roll adown the glade, 
 Now plaintive tinkle in the secret shade. 
 
169 
 
 From the old weir bridge to the upper lake the dis- 
 tance is about three English miles. The defile, strictly 
 speaking, only commences at the Eagle's Nest ; for 
 between this place and the bridge there is an exten- 
 sive tract of low swampy ground, stretching from 
 the banks of the stream to the foot of Glena moun- 
 tain. Along the bottom of the defile the ground in 
 general is of the same description ; but there are se- 
 veral elevated spots, yielding a coarse herbage, w^hich 
 the husbandman does not deem unworthy of his care, 
 and they are annually mown. Seldom, however, do 
 the floods with which the valley is liable to be over- 
 w^helmed allow him to enjoy the fruits of his labour 
 without many disappointments. The hay is com- 
 monly removed several different times before it can 
 be brought home ; and frequently it receives so much 
 injury as ultimately to be totally unfit for use. I once 
 counted upwards of fifty large stacks of hay, which 
 had been made on the banks of the river, very nearly 
 covered with water. The valley is much better 
 adapted to pasturage ; and numerous herds of cattle 
 are fed in it, whose varied groups contribute to the 
 rural charms of the scene, some cooling themselves 
 in the little pools which spread between the rushes ; 
 others reposing on the grassy banks; while many, of 
 a more intractable and rambling disposition, may be 
 descried on the very summit of the mountains : 
 
170 
 
 Who rove o'er bog and heath, and graze or bro^v^e 
 
 Alternate to collect, with due dispatch, 
 
 O'er the bleak wild, the thinly-scatter'd meal. 
 
 The lowing of these animals occasionally produces 
 the most astonishing effect, owing to the numerous 
 echoes, for which the place is distinguished above 
 every other part of Killarney. 
 
 The most remarkable object on the river is a lofty 
 cliff, called the Eagle's Nest ; so designated from an 
 ^yry situated on one of its projecting rocks, which 
 has been annually frequented by the eagle during 
 time immemorial. Well may it be styled 
 
 ' . . . his fort, the towering seat 
 For ages of his empire, which in peace 
 ' Unstain'd he holds, while many a league to sea 
 
 He wings his course, and preys in distant isles. - 
 
 The exact position of the eyry is curiously marked 
 by a horizontal fissure, which resembles a pair of large 
 extended wings. During the breeding season, the 
 birds may occasionally be seen from the river ; and, 
 if alarmed by shouts or by firing a gun, they will 
 launch themselves into the air, and will continue ho- 
 vering about the rock at an immense height. It has 
 not been satisfactorily ascertained to what particular 
 species the eagle which frequents this rock belongs. 
 By some it has been asserted that the ospray, or fish- 
 ing eagle, is the only one known in Ireland ; but 
 
171 
 
 amongst the mountains of Kerry I have myself re- 
 marked several kinds, particularly one of a very dark 
 brown, and another of an ash colour. From descrip- 
 tions that have been received, it is probable that the 
 golden eagle has also been seen in the south of Ireland. 
 The fishing eagle is by much the most common ; and 
 on the sea-coast, where there are large shoals offish, 
 he may be generally observed very actively employed. 
 He is easily distinguishable among the large flocks 
 of different sea-fowl, by his heavy wing, superior size, 
 and strong flight, and also by his mode of fishing, 
 which varies from that of the web-footed tribes. The 
 latter take the fish in their beaks, and devour them 
 upon the water ; whereas the eagle always strikes 
 with his talons, and, having secured his prey, hastens 
 to some rock to enjoy his repast. Eagles are very 
 commonly seen on the small islands of the lower 
 lake, particularly on some which abound wdth rabbits, 
 watching for their prey ; and on a calm day, being 
 unwilling to take wing, owing to the difficulty which 
 they then experience in mounting into the air, they 
 exhibit all the appearance of tameness and familiarity, 
 and will suffer a person to approach within a very 
 short distance. Notwithstanding the eager endea- 
 vours of the people of the country to destroy them, in 
 consequence of the great depredations they commit 
 amongst lambs and poultry, particularly during the 
 breeding season, when their rapacity is inordinate. 
 
112 
 
 tlie number of these birds is supposed to be increa- 
 sing in Kerry. 
 
 The cliff called the Eagle's Nest forms a termina- 
 tion to a short range of mountains, which runs in a 
 direction across that of the stream. These mountains 
 are visible from the bay of Glena, and from the oppo- 
 site shores of the lower lake ; but the wild grandeur 
 of the cliff, its immense rocks, and graceful pendent 
 woods, are not distinctly perceived, owing to the ob- 
 structions along the banks of the river, at a greater 
 distance than two hundred yards. The prospect sud- 
 denly opens on passing a small promontory, and dis- 
 closes to view a huge pile of rocks rising in a pyra- 
 midal form : 
 
 . . A cliff to heaven up piled, 
 Of rude access, of aspect wild ; 
 Vv^here tangled round the jealous steep 
 Strange shades o'erbrow the valley deep. 
 
 The water is considerably dilated at its base ; and, 
 being securely sheltered, it generally presents a dark 
 and glassy surface, on which the rocks and woods are 
 beautifully reflected. Towards the summit of the 
 pile, the rocks in many places have been disjointed 
 and split into small fragments, by the constant and 
 powerful action of the weather ; but lower down they 
 present a broad perjiendicular surface, not unhke the 
 bulwarks of some mighty fortress. Oak, birch, and 
 ash trees clothe the base of the cliff, forming a dense 
 
lis 
 
 shade, interrupted alone by the masses of grey rocks 
 which obtrude their craggy heads through the foHage ; 
 and even to the very summit of the pile, scattered 
 trees, of slender growth, spring from the fissures of 
 the rock, dependent, seemingly, upon the stone itself 
 for nourishment. 
 
 The Eagle's Nest is represented in the engraving 
 as it appears from the opposite bank, about one hun- 
 dred yards higher up the stream ; from which posi- 
 tion it is seen as it were in profile, the range of moun- 
 tains of which it forms a part being concealed. The 
 river flows from the left, winds round the cliff, and 
 loses itself behind the dark rocks on the right ; and 
 in the distance appears a gloomy vale, one of those 
 ill-fated spots. 
 
 Which, circled round with a gigantic heap 
 Of mountains, never felt, nor ever hopes 
 To feel, the genia! influence of the sun. 
 
 It is scarcely in the power of language to convey 
 an adequate idea of the extraordinary effect of the 
 echoes under this cliff, whether they repeat the dul- 
 cet notes of music, or the loud discordant report of 
 a cannon. Enchantment here appears to have resu- 
 med her reign, and those who listen are lost in amaze- 
 ment and delight. 
 
 To enjoy the echoes to the utmost advantage, it is 
 necessary that a band of musicians should be placed 
 on the banks of the river, about fifty yards below the 
 
1-T.4 
 
 base of the cliff, and at the same side ; while the aii^ 
 ditors, excluded from their view, seat themselves on 
 the opposite bank, at some distance above the cliff, 
 behind a small rocky projection. Were a stranger 
 conducted hither ignorant of this arrangement, and 
 unprepared by any previous description for the illu- 
 sory effect of the echo, I am persuaded he would be 
 unable to form a tolerable conjecture as to the source 
 of the sounds, or the number of the instruments. 
 The primary notes are quite lost, whilst those which 
 are reverberated meet the ear increased in strength, 
 in brilliancy, and in sweetness. Sometimes it might 
 be supposed that multitudes of musicians, playing 
 upon instruments formed for more than mortal use, 
 were concealed in the caverns of the rock, or behind 
 the trees on different parts of the cliff; at others, 
 when a light breeze favours the delusion, it seems as 
 if they were hovering in the air. At intervals the 
 treble sounds of flutes and clarionets. 
 
 In sweet vibrations thrilling o'er the skies, 
 
 are alone heard ; and then again, after a short susr 
 pension. 
 
 The clanging horns swell their sweet winding notes, 
 . . . . and load the trembling air 
 With various melody. 
 
 But notwithstanding the occasional swell and predo- 
 minance of certain instruments, the measure of the 
 
melody is not impaired, nor do the notes come con- 
 fusedly to the ear : the air which is played should, 
 however, be very slow, and the harmony simple, af- 
 fording a frequent repetition of perfect chords. 
 
 When the music has subsided, whilst every auditor 
 still remains in a state of breathless admiration, it is 
 usual to discharge a cannon from the promontory op- 
 posite to the cliff, which never fails to startle and to 
 stun the ear, ill prepared as it must be for the shock, 
 after dwelling upon the sweet melody which has pre- 
 ceded it. The report of the gun produces a discor- 
 dant crash, as if the whole pile of rocks were rent 
 asunder ; and the succeeding echoes resemble a tre- 
 mendous peal of thunder. During a favourable state 
 of the atmosphere, upon which much depends, twelve 
 reverberations, and sometimes more, maybe distinctly 
 counted ; and what appears extraordinary, after the 
 sound has been totally lost, it occasionally revives, 
 becomes louder and louder for a few seconds, and 
 then again dies away : 
 
 Now seems it far and now anear, 
 Now meets, and now eludes the ear ; 
 Now seems some mountain's side to sweep, 
 Now dies away in valley deep. 
 
 " Here," says Mr Ockenden,* " we again rested on 
 our oars to mark the flight of numerous eagles (the 
 
 * Letters from Killarney, published 1*767. 
 3 
 
176 
 
 chief inhabitants of these lofty regions,) which was 
 slow, solemn, and very high, to view the marble* 
 chasm in the perpendicular side of the mountain, in 
 which they had formed their nests, and to admire the 
 many noble objects which presented themselves on 
 every hand, in this stupendous scene ; when sud- 
 denly, to our inexpressible amazement, we were sur- 
 prised with music sweeter than I had ever heard be- 
 fore, which seemed to rise from the rock at which 
 we gazed, and, breaking upon us in short melodious 
 strains, filled the very soul with transport. 
 
 " Angels from the sky, or fairies from the moun- 
 tain, or O'Donaghoe from the river, was what we 
 every moment expected to appear before us ; but af- 
 ter a quarter of an hour's fixed attention, all our rap- 
 tures were dispersed by a clap of thunder most asto- 
 nishingly loud, which, bursting from the same direc- 
 tion whence the music had lately seemed to flow, 
 rent the mountain with its roar, and filled us with the 
 apprehension of being instantly buried in a chaos of 
 wood, hill, and water. But the horror was as sud- 
 denly dissipated by the return of the soothing strain 
 which had before entranced us. 
 
 " The second music, which immediately succeed- 
 ed the thunder, seemed more soft and lulling than 
 the first ; but our elysium was very short, being soon 
 
 * Quartz was mistaken for marble. 
 
177 
 
 lost in another clap, still louder than that which had 
 preceded it, and which burst suddenly upon us, again 
 awaking us to terror : when lo ! a third return of mu- 
 sic, superlatively sweet indeed, restored our senses 
 and reinstated our hearts. It lasted some time, and 
 a most solemn silence ensued. We waited now, mo- 
 tionless and awe-struck, for what wonders might fol- 
 low next in this region of enchantment. We gazed 
 at, the wood, the rock, the mountain, and the river, 
 with alternate hope and fear ; hope, while the music 
 dwelt on our thoughts ; and fear, while we remem- 
 bered the thunder : and we expected, with pleasing 
 impatience, some marvellous event. In vain : no 
 angel appeared to delight our eyes ; no daemons to 
 alarm us with new terrors ; no O'Donaghoe to gra- 
 tify our curiosity.'* 
 
 When their Excellencies the Earl and Countess of 
 Hardwicke visited Killarney, during the summer of 
 the year 1802, an officer of a ship of war cruising on 
 the western coast, conveyed two pieces of cannon, of 
 large calibre, in a king's boat, up the river Laune ; 
 an enterprise that was pronounced impracticable un- 
 ,til it was performed. The crew remained encamped, 
 for some weeks, on the island of Innisfallen 5 and the 
 guns were repeatedly fired on different parts, of the 
 lake. That the echoes would have been proportion- 
 ate to the strength of their report was a natural ex- 
 pectation ; but, whether attributable to the prejudice 
 
 M 
 
178 
 
 of the inhabitants of the country in favour of what 
 they were habituated to, or to the peculiarly unfa- 
 vourable state of the atmosphere at the time of the 
 trial, it was the concurrent opinion that the report of 
 the ship guns was not attended either with as loud or 
 as numerous echoes as that of the small pieces in or- 
 dinary use loaded with a few ounces of powder. 
 
 The generality of persons who visit Killarney have 
 no opportunity of judging of the effect of musical 
 sounds at the Eagle's Nest, or on other parts of the 
 lake, as the only musicians who reside on the spot 
 are two wretched performers on the French horn and 
 bugle. Having been fortunate enough myself, each 
 time that I visited Killarney, to be associated with 
 parties who could command the services of a select 
 military band, I can speak from experience of the 
 superior advantage to be derived from a number of 
 instruments. The simple notes of the bugle alone 
 are indeed pleasing, but the wonders of the echo 
 consist in the distinct repetition of a combination of 
 sounds. A barrel organ would probably prove the 
 best substitute for a band, and be well adapted to the 
 place : no such instrument has ever yet been brought 
 upon the lake, though one or more would afford a 
 certain livelihood to the proprietors : but when the 
 people of the town are so blind to their own interest 
 as to have neglected the attainment of many of the 
 ordinary conveniences of life for the accommodation 
 
179 
 
 of strangers, it is not surprising that they are badly 
 provided with music. 
 
 The devious course of the river above the Eaglets 
 Nest, and the numerous impediments which commonly 
 arise from rocks, shoals, and the rapidity of the cur- 
 rent, are productive of repeated disappointment, and 
 excite no small degree of impatience in those who 
 anticipate the view of the romantic confines of the 
 upper lake. The long-wished-for scene is expected 
 to open at every turn ; but one short reach of the ri- 
 ver succeeds to another, terminated by huge rocks, 
 beyond which nothing is visible but distant moun- 
 tains. At length the boat arrives in a little basin, 
 bounded for the most part by steep rocks, to which 
 several different outlets appear. The stranger natu- 
 rally concludes that one to be the proper channel 
 which is the widest, and whose direction accords best 
 with the course of the river : it is not without sur- 
 prise, therefore, that he beholds the oars, after a few 
 strong and rapid strokes, drawn in, and the boat sud- 
 denly put about, and directed through a narrow pass 
 between the rocks, barely sufficient for its admission. 
 This is the entrance to the upper lake ; and, soon af- 
 ter passing it, the most distant shores are revealed to 
 view, with the immense mountains which rise be- 
 yond them. 
 
 The pass goes by the name of Coleman's eye, and 
 is so called, it is said, after a legendary hero of that 
 
180 
 
 Bame, who, in the eagerness of the chase, or in pur- 
 suit of an enemy, having leaped across the stream at 
 this place, left the impression of his foot on the rock 
 where he alighted ; a miracle minutely described and 
 studiously exaggerated by the credulous guides. 
 
 The upper lake is situated in the midst of a stupen- 
 dous amphitheatre of mountains, and displays the 
 most wild and romantic scenery. Its length is nearly 
 the same as that of Turk, its breadth somewhat infe- 
 rior. The mountains which bound it on each side 
 are a continuation of those of the defile, and are cha- 
 racterized by similar features j but they are much 
 loftier, and their parts are all on a grander scale : 
 the glens are deeper ; the woods more extensive, and 
 of older growth ; the rivers larger ; and the falls more 
 lofty and precipitate. The mountains situated at the 
 upper extremity of the lake are the most elevated, as 
 well as the most varied in their outline ; amongst 
 which Magillycuddy's reeks rise pre-eminent in gran- 
 deur above all the rest. These mountains are visible 
 from the lower lake j but their appearance on this 
 side is so very different, that they would scarcely be 
 recognised for the same. Instead of an assemblage 
 of conical peaks, they here display a long craggy 
 ridge, which seems to be reduced like a wedge to a 
 very narrow breadth, at the summit ; and, on ascend- 
 ing, it is found not to be less narrow than it appears 
 irom below. Their height is about three thousand 
 
181 
 
 feet, and they are seldom unobscured by clouds 5 a 
 circumstance which contributes to render their as- 
 pect, at times, peculiarly sublime. 
 
 On entering the upper lake, the attention is at 
 first wholly engaged by the vastness of the mountains ; 
 and next by the extreme wildness and ruggedness of 
 the scene. The numerous islands, as well as the 
 shores, present on every side immense rocks ; some 
 bleak and terrific j others, of a less savage aspect, 
 teeming with vegetable life. Several of the islands, 
 though apparently solid masses of stone, are covered 
 with a profusion of trees, and abound with ever- 
 greens, amongst which the arbutus predominates. 
 
 This tree flourishes on every part of the shores of 
 Killarney ; but it attains a larger size, and is found 
 in greater abundance, in the woods of Glena moun- 
 tain, and on the islands of the upper lake, than else- 
 where. As a single tree it is not picturesque ; but, 
 associated with others, the fine mellow green of its 
 leaves gives variety and richness to the masses of 
 foliage, particularly after the leaves of the deciduous 
 trees are suffused with brown and yellow tints. Its 
 clustered berries, which, when ripe, resemble large 
 scarlet strawberries, have a very pretty appearance, 
 as they hang drooping over the dark rocks ; but one 
 cannot submit with patience to hear them mentioned 
 as essential ornaments to the scenery of Killarney. 
 Theiu beauty, nevertheless, is extolled in • every de- 
 
1^2 
 
 scription of the lake ; and on the spot we are told, 
 with ill-timed exultation, that the proprietor of the 
 woods, unwilHng, to strip the landscape of every em- 
 bellishment, has generously ordered that all the ar« 
 butus trees should remain untouched. Grateful would 
 it have been to the admirers of woodland scenery, if 
 a few of the venerable oaks of Glena had been spared 
 In their stead. 
 
 The rocks along the shores of the islands of the 
 upper lake are of a remarkably dark colour, which 
 agrees so nearly with the reflections of overshadow- 
 ing trees in the water, in calm weather, that the line 
 of separation cannot be traced without difficulty. At 
 the western extremity of the lake the islands form a 
 cluster, among which that called Ronayn's appears 
 conspicuous, from its superior size, and from a cot- 
 tage which has been lately erected as a place of en- 
 tertainment. On the appearance of strangers, an old 
 couple, to whom the care of the island has been in- 
 trusted, generally put off from the opposite shore in 
 a little skiff, to welcome their arrival and open the 
 doors of the building. A gravel walk, commencing 
 at the landing, passes before the door of the cottage, 
 and, winding round the rocks, leads to a sort of na- 
 tural terrace on the summit of the island, which is 
 nearly forty feet above the level of the water. No 
 powers of language are adequate to convey an idea 
 of the wildness and variety of the view which opens 
 
183 
 
 from this spot. The lake is seen in all its intricate 
 windings studded with islands, and bounded by im- 
 mense mountains, 
 
 With woods o'erhung and slia g'd with mossy rock, 
 Whence, on each hand, the gushing waters play. 
 And down the rough cascades white dashing fall. 
 Or gleam in lengthened vistas through the trees. 
 
 Not a single habitation, not a trace of man's labour, 
 can be discovered in any part of this vast amphi- 
 theatre. 
 
 Such romantic solitudes are not less calculated to 
 delight the eye of the enthusiastic admirer of the wild 
 beauties of simple nature, than to favour the medita- 
 tions of the sage : 
 
 for wisdom's self 
 
 Oft seeks to sweet retired solitude. 
 Where, with her best nurse, contemplation. 
 She plumes her feathers and lets grow her wingS; 
 
 It is scarcely possible, indeed, to enter the confines 
 of this sequestered and enchanting region without 
 feeling the influence of a spell, which abstracts the 
 mind from the noise and folly of the world, and ba- 
 nishes, for the moment, the desire of returning to 
 the gay and busy scenes of human life. So powerful 
 are its effects, that instances are not wanting of per- 
 sons, who, on first coming hither, have fondly resol- 
 ved to retire to these distant shades ; and who, with 
 the permission of the proprietors of the shores, have 
 
1S4 
 
 actually determined on the precise position of their 
 intended retreats. But, as if the spell was liable to 
 be dissolved when the mountains of Killarney faded 
 from view, or, as if a temporary absence from the|ha- 
 bitual enjoyments of the pleasures of social life served 
 but to render a return to them the more agreeable, 
 these visionary schemes have been generally aban- 
 doned on withdrawing from the scenes which gave 
 them birth. One man, however, there was, upon 
 whose romantic mind a deeper impression was made : 
 he was an Englishman, of the name of Ronayn. The 
 spot which he selected for his retreat was this small 
 island, which yet retains his name ; and, when first I 
 visited Killarney, the ruins of his little habitation, 
 planted in the midst of rocks very near the water, 
 were still visible. They inspired one vidth a respect 
 for the place j nor was it possible to contemplate 
 them without falling into a train of reflection upon 
 the variety of sentiments entertained by men about 
 happiness, that invariable object of eager and hourly 
 pursuit. The mind was also led to consider how little 
 was actually wanting to supply the real necessities, 
 even of a man who had from infancy, perhaps, been 
 habituated to the comforts and conveniences of ci- 
 vilized life. Surely the spot should have been held 
 sacred, as long as a fragment of the habitation re- 
 mained visible : but the spirit of improvement, as it 
 is often so falsely styled, has swept away every ves- 
 
185 
 
 tige of Ronayn's cottage ; and the mossy rocks, 
 where he was wont to seat himself before it, have gi- 
 ven place to the trim surface of a smooth shorn grass 
 plot. 
 
 Of the motives which induced this gentleman to 
 withdraw from the world, whether they arose from 
 an innate love of retirement, from disappointment in 
 his pursuits, or from 
 
 Strolcps of adversity no time can r.nve. 
 
 No lenient hand can soften or assuage, • 
 
 or whether they arose from his experience of the in- 
 sufficiency of the ordinary pleasures and luxuries of 
 life to afford permanent satisfaction, it has never fal- 
 len within my power to learn. He avoided all so- 
 ciety 'y and seldom left the island except to partake of 
 his favourite amusements of shooting or fishing, by 
 which he procured his chief sustenance. Thus sin- 
 gular in his habits, he became exposed to the eye of 
 curiosity : and, offended at frequent and impertinent 
 intrusion, his jealousy of the approach of strangers 
 sometimes betrayed itself in acts of savage morose- 
 ness ; nevertheless, his name is still mentioned at 
 Killarney with respect, nay even with admiration. 
 
 The shores of the upper lake are extremely intri- 
 cate, being indented by numerous wooded and rocky 
 promontories, by bays, inlets, and long creeks, which 
 wind towards the base of the mountains, as if pur- 
 
186 
 
 posely to receive the streams which rush through 
 the glens, and conduct their waters in silence and 
 tranquillity to the lake. Of these inlets, the largest 
 and most beautiful is that called Newfoundland, at 
 the eastern extremity of the lake. The entrance into 
 it lies through a narrow pass defended by two vast 
 perpendicular rocks ; on passing which an extensive 
 basin suddenly opens to view, bearing the appearance 
 of a fourth lake. On the right of this inlet rises a 
 steep overshadowing cliff, clothed with straggling 
 trees j masses of bleak rocks bound it on the oppo- 
 site side, and in the centre appears a wood of oaks, 
 out of which issues a river accessible for some way in 
 a boat. An irregular path winds along its banks, 
 between trees where thick foliage confines the view, 
 until, at the end of about half a mile, a space sudden- 
 ly opens, discovering some cottages surrounded by a 
 few small enclosures. The sound of falling water now 
 strikes the ear ; and, on turning the eye towards the 
 mountain, a beautiful cascade is seen over the trees 
 at the head of a deep glen. It is scarcely in the 
 power of imagination to conceive a more romantic 
 retreat. No vestige of human industry appears be- 
 yond the precincts of this little hamlet ; woods and 
 mountains surround it ; and the inhabitants seem to- 
 tally cut off from the society of their fellow-creatures. 
 Nor is the retreat less remote in reality from the busy 
 scenes of life than it appears to be : the plough has 
 
187 
 
 never left the traces of its furrows on this vale ; the 
 soil is turned with the spade 5 and the produce, if 
 more than sufficient for the maintenance of the 
 humble cultivators, is conveyed away on horses, by a 
 craggy path which winds along the borders of the 
 stream. 
 
 The inlet which receives the river of Derricunnihy 
 under the Coffin point, also displays a very wild and 
 romantic scene. The cascade on this river, both in 
 beauty and in size, far exceeds every other on the 
 confines of Killarney. From the lake it lies conceal- 
 ed, being situated in the depths of a thick wood ; 
 neither can it be approached without much difficulty, 
 owing to the numerous rocks and thick entangled 
 underwood. The water, where it is first seen, gushes 
 out between two rocks at a great height up the moun- 
 tain ; and, after falling about thirty feet, spreads to 
 a wide extent on each side, sparkling between the 
 foliage and the stones, so that each tree and each 
 rock seems to yield a living spring. These innumer- 
 able rills unite again, and are collected in a basin 
 deeply excavated in the rock ; from which, making 
 a second sudden descent through a contracted chan- 
 nel, the water falls in a sheet of white foam, and loses 
 itself in the woods below, where it again falls, and 
 rushes on through a rocky channel into the lake. 
 
 The view, in which the reeks appear capped with 
 
188 
 
 clouds, is taken from the head of this inlet, near the 
 Coffin point. 
 
 To enter into a description of every bay and inlet, 
 of every glen and cascade, on this delightful and ro- 
 mantic lake, would only fatigue the reader. The 
 powers of language are inadequate to give an exact 
 notion of such scenes. Rocks, woods, mountains, 
 rivers, distinctly as the imagination may paint them, 
 yet in reality will generally be found to present a 
 very different aspect from the conceptions which 
 were formed from a mere verbal description. The 
 assistance of the pencil is absolutely necessary to con- 
 vey any thing like an accurate notion of them ; but 
 it was found incompatible with the plan of this work 
 to insert a greater number of engravings. 
 
 It has often been a question, which of the three 
 divisions of the lake of Killarney was the most inte- 
 resting ; and opinions have been very much divided 
 on the subject. To those who delight in landscapes 
 of a wild and romantic cast, in the gloomy mountain 
 and hollow glen, the upper lake will unfold scenery 
 unrivalled by any on the other divisions, or perhaps 
 in any other part of the island. But its shores dis- 
 play none of those extraordinary contrasts which are 
 observable on the lower lake between the verdant 
 lawn and rugged heath, the graceful grove and en- 
 tangled forest-— ail is one continued scene of savage 
 
189 
 
 wildness. To hazard an opinion, says an anonymous 
 writer, the prevailing character of Killarney is variety, 
 the second, beauty ; magnificence is subordinate. 
 
 If these attributes were to be divided amongst the 
 three lakes, whatever there is of magnificence in the 
 scene, might, perhaps, be allotted with propriety to 
 the upper lake, on account of the height and gran- 
 deur of the adjacent mountains. Things are great or 
 small only by comparison ; and although the moun- 
 tains of Kerry, compared with those of Switzerland, 
 which the anonymous writer appears to have had in 
 view, sink very low in the scale, yet the reeks, owing 
 to their contiguity to the lake, produce a more su- 
 blime effect than loftier mountains would do in a less 
 favourable situation. 
 
 It has also been a question, which of the three lakes 
 was the most picturesque ; and if this wa« to be de- 
 termined by the views which are commonly selected 
 by artists, the far greater numbers which are drawn 
 from the scenery of the great lower lake would at 
 once determine the point. But the facility of visit- 
 ing this part of Killarney, and of procuring subjects 
 for the pencil, may, perhaps, in some measure, ac- 
 count for the prevailing choice. The remoteness of 
 the upper lake, and the difficulty of getting to it, the 
 uncertainty of the climate, and the want of accom- 
 modation on its confines, preclude most strangers 
 from examining it thoroughly. It is only indeed by a 
 
192 
 
 SECTION IIL 
 
 Magillicuddy's reeks are generally supposed to be 
 the most lofty mountains in Ireland ; although their 
 exact height does not appear to have been ascertain- 
 ed. The celebrated Mr Kirwan made several baro- 
 metrical observations both on them and on other 
 mountains in the vicinity of Killarney ; from which 
 he concluded, as he informed me, that the reeks were 
 at least three thousand feet in height: but at the 
 same time he added, that his experiments were not 
 sufficiently numerous fully to satisfy his own mind on 
 the subject. A gentleman resident near Killarney 
 gave me, from memory, a computation of their 
 height, derived from a different source ; according to 
 which, their most elevated point was only one hun- 
 dred and fifty feet lower than Snowdown. The lat- 
 ter mountain is somewhat less than six hundred fa- 
 thoms high J pursuant to the most generally received 
 calculation, three thousand five hundred and sixty- 
 eight feet. This measurement, therefore, would leave 
 the height of the reeks at three thousand four hun- 
 
(a/oc Cleai-I. 
 
 Zonalon, J^udiLrAed Jbnuacr j-':'iS22 lirZon^mart & CTalerJSrostefJRov. 
 
M 
 th 
 
 65 
 
 ec 
 m 
 m 
 he 
 at 
 sa 
 su 
 tl 
 
 S< 
 h< 
 
 w 
 
 di 
 
 te 
 tt 
 
 tl 
 
193 
 
 tired and eighteen feet, which rather exceeds what 
 Mr Kirwan supposed it to be : I suspect, however, 
 that that gentleman did not direct his observations 
 to the most lofty point. He told me it was his prac- 
 tice to remain below, on one of the islands in the 
 lake, whilst his assistant ascended the mountain ; and 
 that they corresponded from time to time by means 
 of signals and telescopes. Now on Gheraun-tuel, the 
 highest peak, this would have been impracticable, as 
 no part of it is visible from the lake. I should sup- 
 pose that this mountain rises at least two hundred 
 feet above the other peaks. 
 
 Being in company with some friends, who, like my- 
 self, were desirous of ascending the most lofty moun- 
 tain in the country, we procured guides for that pur- 
 pose ; and, under their direction, crossed the lower 
 lake to Benson's point, where we landed. From this 
 place we proceeded to Dunloh gap, and, having ad- 
 vanced into it to the distance of half a mile, began 
 to ascend the mountain on our right hand. It pro- 
 ved extremely difficult of access, and in many parts 
 so steep, that, without the aid of the sapling oaks 
 which spring from their fissures, it would have been 
 impossible to scale the rocks. On the summit of this 
 mountain we found an extensive tract of ground, less 
 encumbered with rocks than the valley below, and co- 
 vered, as far as the eye could see, with heath and 
 coarse grass, on which innumerable herds of cattle 
 
 N 
 
194 
 
 were fed. Beyond it appeared another mountain ex- 
 tremely rugged, which we reached at the end of two 
 hours. The ascent was not steep ; but it was labori.. 
 ous and tedious, owing to the immense heaps of loose 
 stones in some places, and the deep rents in the rocks 
 in others ; which last could not be passed without the 
 utmost caution. Along this part of the route the only 
 animals we observed were eagles, of which numbers 
 hovered above us, as if alarmed at the invasion of 
 their lofty solitudes : at one moment we counted no 
 less than twelve of them within gun-shot. 
 
 The craggy tops of the reeks appeared on reaching 
 the summit of this latter mountain ; and after walk- 
 ing for about an hour over a rugged way, nearly si- 
 milar to that which we had already traversed, we 
 gained one of their loftiest pinnacles, which our 
 guides told us was Gheraun-tuel. 
 
 It is scarcely possible to convey an idea of the su- 
 blime view which was now unfolded to our eyes. On 
 each side lay a vast precipice, beyond which arose 
 other immense mountains : still further on we saw 
 the Atlantic ocean bounding the horizon for a great 
 distance ; and, in the opposite direction, a wide ex- 
 panse of the inland country, watered by innumerable 
 rivers and lakes, amongst which that of Killarney wa^ 
 only conspicuous for its superior extent. One of the 
 peaks before us seemed to be considerably more lofty 
 than that which we had ascended 5 but the guide* 
 
195 
 
 persisted in assuring us that the appearance was de- 
 ceptive ; and that if from any third station we could 
 compare its elevation with that of the point on which 
 we then stood, the superior height of the latter would 
 be obvious. The intervening precipices were impass- 
 able ; as it was out of our power, therefore, to make 
 the trial, we were satisfied to receive this intelligence 
 as conviction ; and perhaps none of us, after so much 
 fatigue, were willing to entertain a doubt of having 
 attained the object of our laborious undertaking. 
 
 The mountain which we had ascended resembled 
 the shape of a wedge ; and, at the summit, presented 
 a long craggy ridge, so narrow, that, whilst we stood 
 upon it, we could look into the depths of the preci- 
 pices at either side, or drop pebbles into them from 
 each hand at the same moment. The ridge consist- 
 ed, for the most part, of sharp siliceous rocks, seated 
 on sloping layers or strata of soft argillaceous schis- 
 tus and sandstone, which are both very liable to de- 
 composition ; and as these latter substances are moul- 
 dered away by the incessant action of the mists and 
 vapours which prevail in these high regions of the 
 air, the siliceous rocks become undermined : we 
 found several of them apparently ready to fall on the 
 first shock. Fortunately there are no habitations 
 within their reach, or the mischief to be apprehended 
 from their descent would be truly alarming. From 
 the guides who accompanied us we learned that large 
 
196 
 
 masses of rocks frequently rolled down the mountain 
 after the snow began to dissolve. Their effect was 
 described as extremely awful ; whole herds of cattle 
 being sometimes overwhelmed by their fall. From 
 these circumstances it is obvious that the height of 
 the reeks must be gradually decreasing. 
 
 During our progress we overturned several loose 
 stones on the edge of the precipice, where no dan- 
 ger was to be apprehended from their fall. In their 
 course downwards they carried with them many of 
 Jarger size ; and presently we could distinguish a 
 huge heap in motion at a vast distance below us. It 
 was at first a source of surprise that no noise was 
 heard from the mutual concussions of these ponder- 
 ous masses, when they could so plainly be perceived 
 tumbling down the sides of the mountain ; but in a 
 few seconds it was dispelled by a sudden and tremen- 
 dous crash like the roar of thunder, which was echoed 
 for a long time from mountain to mountain ; and, af- 
 ter the sound had gradually died away in the upper 
 regions, it a second time burst from the depths of the 
 abyss. 
 
 The large rocks of this mountain are formed of a 
 grauwacke, similar to that found on the banks of the 
 lake ; and they are commonly intersected by thick 
 veins of quartz : in the interstices we found some 
 beautiful groups of small rock crystals. Large and 
 brilliant pieces of the same substance are found iu 
 
197 
 
 other parts of Kerry, particularly, as I am informed, 
 on the mountains near Tralee : coarse amethysts also 
 abound there. 
 
 We descended the reeks by a different route from 
 that by which we went up ; and, having arrived at 
 the base, found ourselves in a valley at the head of 
 the upper lake. Soon afterwards we joined a party 
 who awaited our arrival, at a cottage situated at Car- 
 riguline, on the banks of a river which affords the 
 chief supply of water to the lake. 
 
 Here, on recounting the adventures of the day, 
 and boasting of having been on the highest ground 
 in Ireland, an old grey-headed man, who stood by, 
 expressed some doubts of the fact ; adding, that, if 
 we had really been on the most lofty point of the 
 reeks, it would have been impossible for us to have 
 returned before night. We appealed to our guides, 
 who, jealous of their reputation, of course confirmed 
 our story. To put this matter beyond doubt, how- 
 ever, the old man requested us to come to the door 
 and point out the mountain we had ascended. The 
 reeks rose in full view before the cottage, and we 
 could easily trace our route to the most lofty peak. 
 This was sufficient to confirm his first supposition. 
 Gheraun-tuel, he told us, was much higher than any 
 of the other points, and was neither visible from the 
 valley in which we stood, nor from any part of the 
 lake of Killarney. It was to no purpose tliat the 
 
198 
 
 guides maintained the contrary : the evidence of our 
 own senses had abeady impeached their knowledge, 
 and their ignorance of the country was now proved 
 by the concurrent testimony of several mountaineers. 
 
 The difficulty of ascending Gheraun-tuel was re- 
 presented to us as very great, and no stranger, we 
 were told, had ever attempted it. This was but an 
 additional incentive to undertake the enterprise ; and 
 the old man having offered his son as a guide, the 
 next day but one was appointed for the expedition. 
 
 We left the town of Killarney at five in the morn-, 
 ing, and proceeded to Ross castle, where a boat at- 
 tended to convey us to the head of the upper lake. 
 We found the guide at the appointed place, seated 
 on a rock and watching for our arrival : no time, he 
 said, was to be lost j and we instantly set out at a 
 quick pace. The path lay through an extensive val- 
 ley, watered by a chain of small lakes, and a river 
 which connected them together. There was some^ 
 thing in the character of this feature that recalled to 
 our recollection the gap of Dunloh : but the scenery 
 was here much tamer ; and was rather to be admired 
 for the delightful verdure of the peaceful and retired 
 meads, than for the boldness of the rocks or the 
 height and abruptness of the impending precipices, 
 Several other valleys branched off to the right and 
 left, into one of the former of which we turned, after 
 prpq^eding about four iiiiles 5 but did not begin tq 
 
199 
 
 ascend the heights until we had advanced to a consi- 
 derable distance further. The first mountain we came 
 to, though exceedingly steep, was not difficult of as- 
 cent, as the rocks were few, and the ground on which 
 we trod dry and firm. On the summit was a vast 
 plain covered with coarse grass, beyond which, in 
 the distance, appeared the conical head of Gheraun- 
 tuel ; but we had walked at least four or five miles 
 along the plain before we saw more of the mountain. 
 A full view of it at last opened from the brink of 
 a tremendous precipice, whose depth we could not 
 then discover. It rose with great regularity in the 
 form of a cone, and, to appearance, stood quite insu- 
 lated, except on the nearest side, where it was con- 
 nected with the mountain on which we stood by a 
 sort of spur, forming an isthmus, and bearing a re- 
 semblance, though on a scale of such great magni- 
 tude, to the artificial approach to an old castle. At 
 the height from which we viewed it, this pass did not 
 seem to be wider than might be sufficient for a single 
 carriage ; and though, on descending, we found it at 
 least sixty feet broad, yet the immense depth and 
 great abruptness of the precipices d-t each side, so 
 imposed on the senses, that we could scarcely per- 
 suade ourselves of being in perfect safety in its very 
 centre. Here, however, we halted, at once to admire 
 the sublimity of the scene, and to take some refresh- 
 ment and repose. From this place to the summit 
 
200 
 
 the distance did not appear to be very great, as the 
 ^lope, owing to our contiguity to the mountain, was 
 fore-shortened ; but, though we advanced with ar^ 
 dour, and the way, except being very steep, was not 
 incommodious, we did not arrive at the top until an 
 Jiour and a half after we set out, 
 
 Gheraun-tuel is formed of grey hornstone, or 
 chert ; hornslate, quartz, feldspar, and pale red por- 
 phyry. Towards the summit the stones were all split 
 into small flags ; but they had no tendency to divide 
 into thinner fragments, and broke more readily across 
 than in any other direction : they were extremely 
 hard and tough, and exhibited no appearance of de- 
 composition. The top of the mountain presented a 
 smooth area nearly circular, about thirty feet in di^ 
 ameter, from which there was an uniform slope on 
 every side. Hence we had a distinct view of Dingle 
 bay, and of the whole coast between it and the river 
 Shannon ; and, in the opposite direction, of Kenmare 
 river, Bantry bay, and the great estuaries of the 
 south-western coast. The inland view was less inte- 
 resting than from the other points of the reeks, as 
 but few lakes could be distinguished, and the beauty 
 and variety of the ground beneath was lost in the im- 
 mensity of the distance. We soon recognised, from 
 this place, the peaks which we had ascended two 
 days before j and, as they appeared much below us.* 
 
201 
 
 it was obvious that we had at last gained that eleva- 
 tion to which we had with so much toil aspired. 
 
 While we gazed with wonder upon this stupendous 
 scene, our guide, pointing to the bay of Dingle, began 
 a long history of a hero of the name of Shee. How he 
 was tempted with treasures by the devil, and induced 
 to swim after them from the shore ; when, to his sur- 
 prise and disappointment, instead of a rich prize, he 
 was deluded by a white sheet that floated on the wa^ 
 ter, in which being soon entangled, he was dragged 
 to the bottom of the sea ; since which time no per- 
 son of his name had ever been able to cross the bay 
 in safety : but, before he had half finished a narrative 
 which to him appeared very important, the intensity 
 of the cold made us prepare for taking leave of this 
 elevated region. Desirous, however, before we de- 
 scended, of leaving some memorial of our presence, 
 we collected a number of large stones, and erected a 
 pyramid on the summit of the mountain, which yet 
 perhaps bids defiance to the storms. 
 
 Having arrived once more at the isthmus, or con- 
 necting ridge, we were informed that there were two 
 routes by which the mountain might be descended. 
 The first was so long that it was doubtful if we could 
 accomplish it before night ; the other was shorter, 
 but somewhat hazardous. The preference was given 
 to the latter j and, after a short progress, we were 
 
202 
 
 conducted to a precipice, at least sixty feet deep, 
 down which we were told it was necessary to take 
 our course. The proposal startled us, nor did we 
 conceive how it was practicable ; but the guide, seat- 
 ing himself at the brink of it, on a rock which pre- 
 sented an even face nearly to the bottom of the pre- 
 cipice, slid down it, taking the precaution, however^ 
 to impede the velocity of the descent by catching 
 hold of the tufts of long grass which grew from the 
 crevices at each side. His example was followed 
 without hesitation ; and, having accelerated our de- 
 scent down the steepest part of the mountain, by 
 sliding over other rocks of a similar description, w^e 
 soon reached the bottom. We found our horses on 
 the banks of a river, where orders had previously 
 been given that they should be brought ; and at ten 
 at night we arrived in the town of Killarney, after an 
 absence of seventeen hours ; during the whole of 
 which time we had only enjoyed one of repose. 
 
 Of the other mountains in the vicinity of Killar- 
 ney, Mangerton,* which lies to the south-east of 
 Turk, approaches the nearest to the elevation of the 
 reeks. According to the computation given me by 
 the gentleman before alluded to, this mountain is 
 only seven hundred feet lower than the reeks ; but 
 Mr Kirwan informed me, that, from his measurement, 
 
 * S^^ the view of Ross castle, and the description. 
 
203 
 
 it did not appear to be more than two thousand feet 
 high. It is somewhat singular, therefore, that this 
 mountain should have been esteemed, for a long time, 
 the most lofty in Ireland. Dr Smith ranks it as such 
 in his History of Kerry, though he acknowledges that 
 its appearance would lead to a different conclusion. 
 <« MagiUicuddy's reeks," says he, " seem higher to 
 the eye ; but most hills which are conical, and termi- 
 nating in points, appear higher, at a distance, than 
 those mountains which have a large surface on their 
 tops. They are steeper than Mangerton, and have 
 more terrible precipices and declivities, so that it was 
 in a manner impossible to determine their height by 
 a barometer." The preceding pages demonstrate 
 how much the Doctor was mistaken, if he supposed 
 they were inaccessible. 
 
 There is a road, or rather path, to the very summit 
 of Mangerton, which renders the ascent easy ; few 
 strangers therefore neglect seeing it. The horses of 
 the country are better adapted than any others for 
 the excursion, being remarkably sure-footed, and ac- 
 customed to the steepness and ruggedness of the 
 way. A very extensive view opens from the summit, 
 particularly in the direction of Kenmare river ; but 
 neither the Atlantic ocean or the coast are seen to 
 so much advantage as from Magillicuddy's reeks. 
 The great object of curiosity on this mountain, which 
 induces so many to encounter the toil of the ascent. 
 
204 
 
 is a lake situated within three hundred feet of its 
 summit, called the Devil's Punch-bowl, which the na- 
 tives pretend is unfathomable ; and its depth, I be- 
 lieve, is very great. It is chiefly remarkable for the 
 clearness and intense coldness of the water. 
 
 A story is current at Killarney, that the late cele-» 
 brated Mr Fox swam entirely round this lake, and 
 made a prophetic boast that no one would afterwards 
 be found to perform the same feat. A party, when 
 I first visited Killarney, set out with a determination 
 to accept of the challenge ; but being extremely 
 overheated by a walk up the mountain in one of the 
 hottest days of summer, the adventure, after a short 
 experience of the piercing coldness of the water, was 
 abandoned, as too perilous. The guides still inform 
 strangers that no one has, either before or since, dis- 
 played the same prowess as Mr Fox. 
 
 The summit of Mangerton displays an immense 
 plain, covered with coarse grass and heath, amongst 
 which scarcely a rock is to be seen. The surface 
 consists of a spongy substance, very like a bog, which 
 in some places is easily penetrable with a stick to a 
 great depth. So great is the extent of this plain, and 
 so frequent the recurrence of fogs and mists, that it 
 is not unusual for people to lose their way whilst tra- 
 versing it ; and, after night-fall, it is thought safer to 
 remain on the mountain than to encounter the precis 
 pices by which it is environed. I was once with sv 
 
205 
 
 party which had been shooting on the mountains be- 
 yond Mangerton, and, in the way back to Killarney, 
 had to cross this plain. On advancing, the air be-* 
 came obscure ; and, at last, such dense vapours en- 
 veloped us, that it was impossible to distinguish an 
 object at the distance of a few yards. Under these 
 pircumstances we continued to walk, for more than 
 two hours, over an unvaried surface, where no track 
 whatsoever was visible ; our guide still asserting that 
 he was leading us home by the shortest possible 
 route. The mist soon penetrated our clothes, and 
 we began to experience all the inconvenience of wet 
 and cold, when the guide, suddenly stopping, took 
 off his coat, turned it inside out, and again delibe- 
 rately put it on. We marvelled very much at this 
 extraordinary proceeding, and his reluctance to give 
 a satisfactory reply to our inquiries into the motives 
 of it, served but to excite still greater curiosity. At 
 last, being pressed for an explanation, he acknow- 
 ledged that he was totally ignorant of our situation, 
 and had turned his coat as a charm of potent influence 
 to enable a lost man to recover his way. The intelli- 
 gence was unwelcome : the day was fast approaching 
 to a close, and there was danger of our taking the very 
 opposite course to that which ought to be followed. 
 In this predicament, therefore, the party halted, and 
 a council was held to consider of the best means of 
 delivering ourselves from this dreary solitude. It was 
 
206 
 
 unnecessary to deliberate long. At our feet a rill is* 
 sued from the ground ; and, as it was obvious that 
 it must run down the mountain, in some direction, 
 we determined at once to be guided by its course. 
 Never did navigator, in quest of unknown regions, 
 follow with more ardent expectation the windings of 
 a river, than did we the meanders of this little stream. 
 Sometimes dividing into several branches, we were 
 left in doubt which to pursue : but they seldom con- 
 tinued long separate, and, on uniting, each one ap- 
 peared to bring with it an additional supply of wa- 
 ter. The size of the stream thus increasing, confi- 
 dence kept pace with our progress. At last it swell- 
 ed to a considerable river, and was heard at a dis- 
 tance, roaring amongst rocks. Just at this moment 
 the dark cloud which had enveloped us, caught by a 
 sudden gust of wind, rose like a vast curtain, and re- 
 vealed a stupendous scene, of whose aw^ful sublimity 
 no time can obliterate the recollection. We found 
 ourselves on the brink of a tremendous gulph, whose 
 depth was concealed by the gloom ; but down whose 
 precipitous and rocky sides the water, which had con- 
 ducted us, tumbled in a torrent. The opposite side 
 of the gulph, as far as v/e could trace it, seemed to 
 consist of a perpendicular face of solid rock, for many 
 hundred feet, and in v/hatever direction we turned 
 our eyes, nought could be perceived but " Wilds im- 
 measureably spread." We contemplated the preci* 
 
^07 
 
 pice with mingled emotions of hope and fear ; doubt- 
 ful whether it would be possible to descend at this 
 place, and having no alternative, if baffled in the at- 
 tempt, but to pass the night upon the mountain. 
 
 The way downward was rugged in the extreme. It 
 was with difficulty, indeed, we could force a passage 
 through the briers and tall heath ; and the sudden 
 breaks in the rocks would have been an effectual bar 
 to our progress, had it not been for the occasional 
 assistance we derived from the branches of sapling 
 oaks which shot from the crags, by means of which 
 we lowered ourselves from steep to steep. At last, 
 after much labour, and nearly exhausted with fatigue, 
 we reached the bottom, and found ourselves in a ro- 
 mantic and beautiful glen, through which the stream 
 that, for a considerable time past, had only been 
 heard among the shades, tumbling over rocks, was 
 now seen gliding over a bed of pebbles, bounded on 
 each side by delightful verdant banks. The glen wi- 
 dened as we advanced, and, at the distance of a mile, 
 terminated on the confines of a spacious lake. 
 
 This place is about six miles distant from Killar- 
 ney, and is called, I believe, the Glen of the Horse ; 
 probably from the excellence of its pastures. The 
 lake is known by the name of Lough Etaun. It is 
 upwards of a mile in length, of an oval form, and 
 contains some beautiful islands. Besides this lake, 
 there are several others on the same side of Manger- 
 
2Dg 
 
 toiij all of which contribute, by connecting stream^,, 
 to supply the great lake of Killarney. They all claim 
 the attention of the traveller : some of them, which 
 are closely surrounded by vast precipices, are objects 
 of great curiosity. 
 
 Mangerton affords a more extensive variety of mi- 
 neral productions than I observed on any of the other 
 mountains. Besides the different siliceous stones 
 which abound in the country, it contains several 
 sorts of argillaceous schistus, particularly towards the 
 summit, in the vicinity of the Punch-bowl ; the schis- 
 tus, which is of a yellowish colour, is much decom- 
 posed, and separates into minute splinters. In the 
 excavations which have been made by torrents lower 
 down the mountain, large pieces of novaculite are 
 found, bedded in yellow clay, which are sought for 
 with avidity, and used by the people of the country 
 as whet-stones. Some specimens are found of a very 
 fine grain, which are considered applicable to the ni- 
 cest purposes. Iron is very abundant, particularly 
 the argillaceous upland ore, and brown and red iron^ 
 stone ; the latter are described as the sorts that were 
 most commonly manufactured in Kerry. I have found 
 on this mountain also some very beautiful specimens 
 of specular iron ore adhering to quartz. No calca-* 
 reous matter is any where observable on it. 
 
 The other mountains which lie in the vicinity of 
 
 Killarney are considerably lower than Mangerton, 
 
 2 
 
209 
 
 The relative heights of Tomies, Turk, and Glena, 
 are nearly in the order in which they are mentioned ; 
 and of those on the confines of the upper lake, the 
 Purple-mountain and the Sugar-loaf are the next, I be- 
 lieve, in magnitude to the Reeks. Of all these the 
 geological character appears nearly the same as that 
 of Manger ton and the Reeks : the former affords a 
 greater variety of minerals ; but in none of the 
 mountains around the lake have any substances of 
 peculiar interest been discovered. 
 
 Of the plants of this country I am unable to give 
 any account from my own observation. Doctor Wade, 
 M.L.S., professor of botany to the Dublin Society, 
 &c., in a list of indigenous plants, which are rather 
 rare and valuable in Ireland, enumerates the follow- 
 ing amongst those which he has found at Killarney 
 and in the vicinity :* 
 
 Arbutus unedo ------ stravoherry-tree. 
 
 Asplenium adiantura nigrum - - black maiden-hair. 
 
 — — - — trichomanes - - - common ditto^ 
 
 Bartsia viscosa ------ viscous bartsia, 
 
 Betonica officinalis ----- ijcood-betony. 
 
 Bryum laterale ------ lateral bryum* 
 
 Buxbaumia foliosa ----- leafy Buxbaumia* 
 
 — aphylla ----- leafless ditto. 
 
 Carex pulicaris ------ Jlea-seg, 
 
 ■ curta ------- ixihite ditto. 
 
 Transactions of the Dublin Society, 1804. 
 O 
 
210 
 
 Carex distans - loose Jlea-Segj 
 
 Crataegus Aria - - - ^- - - >i\)hite heam-tree:. 
 
 Euphorbia hibernica - - ^ - Irish spurgt. 
 
 Empetrum nigrum --..-- black cro'w-herry^ 
 
 Festuca vivipara - - - ^ - viviparous fescue-grass. 
 
 Fontinalis antipyretica - - - - greater water-moss, 
 
 _. — squamosa - - - - scali/ ditto, 
 
 Gnaphalium margaritaceum - - eiierlasting pea. 
 
 Geranium lucidum - - - ^ - shining crane's-bill 
 
 Hedypnois Taraxaci - - - - alpine hedypnois, 
 
 Hieracium sabaudum - - - - shrubby-leaved ha^Jcmed, 
 
 Hypnum attenuatum - - - - slender hypnum, 
 
 . : intricatum - - - - matted ditto, 
 
 ^- polyanthos - - - - Schreber ditto, 
 
 Juncus campestris var. |3. 
 
 ■ trifidus ------ three-leaved rush* 
 
 Juniperus communis - - - - common juniper, 
 
 Jungermannia asplenioides - - spleentvort Jungermannia. 
 
 _. bisctispidata - - forked ditto. 
 
 Lichen crenulatus - - -.- - little crenate lichen. 
 
 ^floridus fowery ditto. 
 
 . furcatus - - - - - - forked ditto. 
 
 ,. globiferus - « - - - globe ditto. 
 
 ^ horizontah's - - - - brotvn horizontal ditfo'^ 
 
 ._— islandicus ----- Iceland ditto. 
 
 , ,— paschalis crisp ditto, 
 
 , — plicatus - stringy ditto. 
 
 -__- polyrrhizos dusky rock lichen. 
 
 ^ ^_ pubescens - - - - - pubescent ditto. 
 
 , pustulatus ----- blistered ditto. 
 
 « resupinatus ----- reversed diffo. 
 
 „>__ scrobiculatus - - ^ - pitted ditto. 
 
 Lobelia Dortmanna - - - - mter Lobelia* 
 
211 
 
 Lycopodium selago - - - - fir cluh-moss^ 
 
 Marchantia hemispherica - - - hemispherical Marchantia* 
 Mentha arvensis. 
 . — hirsuta var. h (Smith) 
 
 pulegium - - ^ - - 'pennyroyal, 
 
 Mnium glaucum ----- glaucous mnium* 
 
 pseudo-triquetrum. ■* - 
 
 Osmunda regalis ----- Jlotxieringjern. 
 
 Polypodium dryopteris - - - thrice-branched polypody, 
 
 • fragile ----- jlne-leaved brittle ditto* 
 
 — 1 fragrans - - - - sweet polypody, 
 
 Polytrichum aloides - - - - dvoarf polytrichum, 
 
 Rhamnus catharticus - - - - purging bucMhorik 
 
 Rhodeola rosea ------ rosexjoort^ 
 
 Rubus idaeus ------ raspberry, 
 
 . saxatilis ------ stone-bramble*. 
 
 Rubia peregrina ----- ijoild madder* 
 
 Saxifraga stellaris ----- hairy saxifrage, 
 
 , umbrosa ----- London pride. 
 
 Scirpus fluitans - - -^ - - - floating club-moss, 
 
 Sorbus aucuparia ----- mountain ash, 
 
 Serapias latifolia ----- broad-leaved helleborine. 
 Thymus serpyllum. 
 Trichomanes Tunbridgense - - tunbridge gbldiloch. 
 
 Wild and dreary as the vast region of mountains on 
 the western side of the county of Kerry appears to 
 be, it boasts, nevertheless, of a numerous and hardy 
 population. The chief occupation of the people is 
 pasturage ; and, from the milk of their herds, a large 
 portion of that excellent butter is produced which is 
 exported from Cork and Limerick to every quarter 
 
212 
 
 of the globe.* The habitations are generally situated 
 in valleys ; but it is somewhat remarkable that they 
 seldom stand in such a number together as to form 
 what might be termed a hamlet, although the people 
 are universally of an open cheerful disposition, fond 
 of conversation, and devoted to hospitable associa- 
 tions. 
 
 The land is held not by the acre ; for, in these 
 mountains, such minute divisions are of little impor- 
 tance ; but, according to the language of the coun- 
 try, hy the lump ; that is, by large tracts : and, after 
 an agreement has been made with the landlord for 
 their respective shares, it is usual for many different 
 families to form a partnership, and make a joint con- 
 cern of their several farms. Where pasturage alone is 
 followed, great benefit accrues to the little commu- 
 nity from this practice. It saves the labour and ex- 
 pense of multiplied superintendence ; it excites at- 
 tention to the general interest, and prevents disputes 
 that would otherwise arise concerning boundaries, 
 where the benefit to be derived from their existence 
 is not adequate to the cost of their erection. Each 
 
 * The butter of Kerry is amongst the best of the island. It is a 
 well-known fact, that much of it is remade in London ; and, depri- 
 ved of its salt, is sold in that city as the produce of Epping : many 
 a worthy citizen, who would spurn at the idea of breakfasting, upon 
 the produce of the Irish mountains, devours it, unconscious of its 
 origin. 
 
213 
 
 man, in proportion to the computed extent of his 
 land, is permitted to maintain a certain number of 
 cattle J and, in many instances, where the parties 
 have confidence in each other, they make a joint 
 stock both of their kine and their produce. 
 
 This country was formerly remarkable for a very 
 small and beautiful breed of black cattle ; but the 
 people have been seized with tlie spirit of improve- 
 ment, and the true Kerry cow, as it is called, is now 
 rarely to be found, excepting amongst the mountains 
 in the vicinity of Ban try-bay. The size of this animal 
 does not exceed that of an ordinary yearling calf. 
 From the prevalent inclination of the people to dis- 
 card the native stock of their hills, it is, presumed 
 that they derive more profit from the enlarged breed : 
 but there are some of a contrary opinion, who still 
 maintain their attachment to the ancient race, and 
 who contend that, from their hardy character, and the 
 abundance and richness of their milk, they are pecu- 
 liarly adapted to the situation and circumstances of 
 the country. 
 
 Immense herds of goats are likewise fed in these 
 mountains, whose milk is chiefly used by the peasants 
 for their domestic purposes, as it yields only an in- 
 different sort of butter, for which there is no demand 
 in the export market. The rambling disposition of 
 these animals, for they sometimes spread over the 
 whole side of a mountain, covering it with white 
 
214 
 
 dots, would be productive of considerable inconve- 
 nience to the owners, were it not for the assistance 
 they derive from dogs. We were much entertained, 
 one evening, at seeing a woman deliberately come 
 forth from a cottage with her pails to milk a herd, 
 which was dispersed over an extent of some miles. 
 She cast her eye around, to discover on which moun- 
 tain they were browsing *, and then, pointing them 
 out to two little dogs, sat patiently down on a stone 
 to wait their arrival. The dogs, who were well ac- 
 quainted with this business, ran off at full speed ; 
 and presently we could distinguish the whole herd in 
 motion, and, assembling into one body, move briskly 
 down the mountain. A few that seemed refractory 
 were soon compelled to obedience ; and, in less than 
 half an hour, they all stood around the door of the 
 cottage. The herbage of the mountains is but [ill 
 adapted to sheep ; and, in some places, is said to be 
 absolutely poisonous. The few which are fed are of 
 a diminutive size. We bought one, when encamped 
 on a shooting party, w^hich was esteemed fat, for half- 
 a-giiinea ; and they are sometimes sold at a still low- 
 er price : the mutton is of very delicious flavour. 
 
 The valleys between the mountains, in general, 
 contain a soil, capable, if properly cultivated, of 
 yielding abundant crops ^ but the inhabitants, insen- 
 sible of its real value, are satisfied with tilling small 
 patches near their dwellings, sufficient to produce 
 
215 
 
 some oats or potatoes, which, with milk, constitute 
 their chief food. A very scanty portion of it is al- 
 lotted for meadow; the hay which is necessary for 
 the winter being procured, for the most part, from 
 the mountains, where it is collected from various 
 little spots, on which the grass, from being sheltered 
 by rocks, or from growing on a drier soil, is found 
 to be luxuriant. It is common for a man, in the sea- 
 son, to traverse the side of a mountain with a scythe, 
 and cut the grass perhaps from fifty small patches, 
 which, when accumulated together, does not produce 
 one ton of hay. The excellence of the grass in these 
 dry parts is a certain indication of the great advan- 
 tage which might be derived from drains, as they might 
 easily be cut. Indeed, in various parts of this moun- 
 tainous region, there are immense tracts which now 
 yield only a coarse herbage for cattle, that might, 
 and which probably one day will, be devoted to tilL 
 age, and produce food for thousands of human beings. 
 The great impediment to the improvement of this 
 country is the want of carriage-roads, which prevents 
 the mountaineers, without much labour and expense, 
 from bringing lime to their little farms, the great 
 source of fertility in this soil. At present all traffic is 
 carried on by means of horses ; but although these 
 animals, from long habit, can traverse the mountain- 
 ous regions with a boldness and dexterity unknown 
 to the more valuable and high-bred races of a culti* 
 
216 
 
 vated country, yet it is frequently found necessary to 
 unlade their burthens, in order to enable them to 
 pass over the rocks by which the ways are obstructed. 
 On a distant part of Mangerton mountain I observed 
 a very narrow track, barely discernible amidst the 
 heath, which I was informed was a much frequented 
 horse road. Following its course, I found it was 
 crossed by a ledge of steep rocks, which extended as 
 far as the eye could reach on either side ; and, after- 
 wards, it passed for a considerable distance along the 
 brink of a precipice, where a single false step must, 
 to all appearance, be productive of inevitable destruc- 
 tion. Yet, intricate and dangerous as the way seem- 
 ed, on reaching the foot of the mountain, when it 
 was already dusk, we met a party of mountaineers, 
 some of whom were intoxicated and tottering on 
 their horses, riding at a smart pace, and advancing 
 along this very road without the least solicitude about 
 the perils they were to meet in their progress. 
 
 The butter of this country is almost all conveyed 
 to Cork by the peasants who make it ; and it is com- 
 mon to meet twenty horses or more in a string, on a 
 leading mountain road, each one carrying two casks. 
 I was informed by a friend, that when he first visited 
 Kerry, at which period improvement and civilization 
 were in their infancy, it was very usual to see a cask 
 of butter on one side, and a large stone on the other 
 to balance it ; but it has since been discovered that 
 
217 
 
 one cask is the best counterpoise to another, and 
 every horse is now doubly laden. In returning from 
 Cork they bring back empty casks, and such articles 
 as are wanted for home consumption. 
 
 This commerce is attended with the most benefi- 
 cial effects to the country at large, as well as to this 
 particular district. It supplies a valuable article of 
 export, which serves to counteract the great weight 
 of British manufactures and foreign goods which 
 are imported ; and, if not fully sufficient to coun- 
 terbalance them, at least prevents their overbear- 
 ing preponderance. It opens a source of honest in- 
 dependence to a hardy and intelligent race of men, 
 and stimulates industry to active exertion. It assists 
 also in a material degree to improve the condition of 
 the people. The mountaineer no longer remains a 
 secluded being, wandering amidst the wilds, and dri- 
 ving his miserable kine, the associates of his life, 
 from heath to heath. He descends with his rich bur- 
 then into cultivated plains and peopled towns, where, 
 mingling with his more polished fellow-creatures, he 
 returns at once inspired with the incentives, and en- 
 riched with the means, to adopt the more settled ha- 
 bits of civilized life. This intercourse serves to point 
 out the advantage derivable from a knowledge of the 
 English language, as well as from writing and arith- 
 metic ; and the establishment of the means of educa- 
 tion ie a natural consequence. Amidst some of the 
 
2.18 
 
 wildest mountains of Kerry, I have met with English 
 schools ; and even seen multitudes of children seated 
 round the humble residence of their instructor, with 
 their books, pens and ink, where rocks have supplied 
 the place of desks and benches. Nor is the dissemi- 
 nation of domestic and foreign intelligence neglected 
 in these mountains. Even in the very centre of Ive- 
 ragh* th6 farmers receive newspapers ; and, at the 
 commencement of the present war with Spain, I 
 found the peasantry as much alive to the consequen- 
 ces of a rupture with that country, as the merchant 
 who, unsuspicious of danger, had inadvertently con- 
 signed a rich cargo to the port of an enemy. They 
 were well aware that Spain was one of the principal 
 marts for the produce of their dairies ; and that, if 
 the communication with that country was impeded, 
 the Cork traders would make it a pretence for offer- 
 ing a lower price for their commodities. 
 
 The mountaineers of Kerry are, in general, well 
 clothed ; the men, I hesitate not to say, better than 
 many of the peasants of England : but the females, 
 neither here nor in those parts of Ireland where, 
 from the flourishing state of manufactures, and the 
 great gains which attend industry, they have more 
 money to spare for the embellishment of their per^ 
 sons, seem to have acquired a taste for that neat and 
 
 ^ Iveragh is situated on the south side of Dingle bay. 
 
219 
 
 simple dress which distinguishes the females of the 
 same class in the sister isle. I have observed, how- 
 ever, in some parts of the mountains of Kerry, a very 
 becoming dress in common use amongst the women, 
 which, like many other things in this country, is, I 
 believe, of Spanish origin. It consists of a jacket of 
 crimson or scarlet cloth, with long loose sleeves, 
 made to fit very close round the neck and bosom, 
 and fastened in front with a row of buttons. I do not 
 recollect to have seen it in any other part of the coun- 
 try than the barony of Iveragh, 
 
 Fuel, that essential necessary of human life, is 
 abundant throughout the mountains ; it consists of 
 turf or peat, furze and heath, which last commonly 
 attains the height of six feet, and bears a stem pro- 
 portionably thick. 
 
 On the whole, being well provided with food, fuel, 
 and raiment, the condition of the people may, in 
 many instances, be considered extremely comfort- 
 able. The appearance of the habitations, which are 
 rude and clumsy without, and far from cleanly with- 
 in, would lead a stranger to form a very different con- 
 clusion ; but comfort is a relative term, and those 
 who have not acquired by long habit a relish for re- 
 gularity and neatness, are not sensible of inconve- 
 nience from their privation. The mountaineer who 
 enters his cottage drenched with rain, fatigued with 
 traversing vast heaths, or with relieving his cattle 
 
220 
 
 from the perils of the precipice and morass, esteems his 
 habitation comfortable in proportion to its warmth ; 
 and heeds not the sooty coating of the roof, or the 
 dusky colour of the scanty furniture, while he enjoys 
 the fierce blaze of a huge pile of turf. That these 
 people would be neat and cleanly in their general ha- 
 bits, if they were once made sensible of the advanta- 
 ges resulting therefrom, I have no doubt. They are 
 fully aware that, to have good butter, minute clean- 
 liness, and well- ventilated apartments, are essentially 
 requisite ; and many of their dairies vie in these re- 
 spects with the most expensive and best-regulated 
 that are to be found in Great Britain. Far be it from 
 me, however, to extenuate their slovenliness, and too 
 general inattention to the decency of their dwellings. 
 No person can be more sensible of these defects ; no 
 person can wish more ardently to behold them 
 amended* 
 
 They marry at a very early age : the men com- 
 monly at eighteen, the females much sooner ; and it is 
 no rare occurrence to behold four generations together 
 in health and vigour. The inducements to marriage 
 are numerous ; the impediments few. The extent of 
 the mountain-farms being, in general, great, they ad- 
 mit of a division proportionate to the increase of the 
 people. A habitation for the new-married couple is 
 built at a trifling expense. Stones suitable for the 
 purpose abound in every place 5 and it requires little 
 
221 
 
 skill to heap them together in form of a wall, and 
 plaster them with clay j the heath supplies materials 
 for the thatch. A plot of ground is readily converted 
 into a potatoe garden ; and its never-failing produce 
 is generally more than adequate to the wants of the 
 little family. If, to all these advantages, were to be 
 added the gains arising from such domestic manufac- 
 tures as are common in the north of Ireland, and 
 which might well be carried on in this country, these 
 people would become wealthy : but they seem con- 
 tented with what they already possess ; and, attached 
 to a course of life which is, comparatively, one of 
 ease and indolence, they are sometimes heard to ex- 
 press pity and contempt for the condition of those 
 who are doomed to incessant manual labour. 
 
 Mountaineers are commonly disposed to pride 
 themselves on their superiority to the inhabitants of 
 lowland countries. That they are in general more 
 robust, more hardy, and more athletic, is unquestion- 
 able. Exposed from their infancy to the storms and 
 sudden vicissitudes of weather which usually prevail 
 in elevated regions, their bodies become braced with 
 vigour, and habitually inured to the inclemency of 
 the seasons. In attending their herds, the common 
 occupation of such people, they learn betimes to 
 move with agility over rocks and rugged ground j 
 and their limbs, thus exercised, acquire strength, 
 without the risk of being overstrained by premature 
 
222 
 
 and violent exertions. Nor is it only by their acti- 
 vity and hardiness that the mountaineers are distin- 
 guished ; in general, they are much more shrewd and 
 intelligent than the peasants of the low country. 
 Their way of life affording more leisure than that of 
 the labourer, who is unceasingly employed in the 
 field, extends their opportunities for conversation j 
 and those of Kerry have further advantages from 
 their trade, which, obliging them to travel frequently 
 to Cork and Limerick, helps tQ open their minds by 
 inciting inquiry and gratifying curiosity. 
 
 The peasantry of Kerry are generally tall and well- 
 proportioned. Swarthy complexions, dark eyes, and 
 long black hair, are common amongst them j in which 
 features some persons pretend to trace the origin of 
 their race from Spain 5 and the appellation of Mile- 
 sians, from Milesus, who led a colony from that 
 country, is given to them : this reputed distinction 
 from the other inhabitants of Ireland is eagerly main- 
 tained amongst the lower orders. 
 
 To delineate with fidelity the character and man- 
 ners of any people, a long acquaintance and frequent 
 communication with them are absolutely necessary : 
 the observations of transitory curiosity can serve 
 little purpose but the gratification of a feeling simi- 
 Jar to that in which they originated. Of the moun- 
 taineers of Kerry I can only say, that, during a so- 
 journ of several months in the country, they appear- 
 
22S 
 
 Gd to me to be a frank, honest race of men ; of a 
 very independent spirit ; acute in understanding ; 
 and friendly and hospitable towards strangers. In my 
 various intercourse with them, I met with but pne in- 
 stance that contradicted this character. It occurred 
 in the vicinity of Lough-scald, amongst the hills on 
 the north side of the bay of Dingle, where, though 
 we gave the people a pecuniary recompense for the 
 liberty they had allowed us of pitching our tents and 
 grazing our horses for two nights, exceeding, in a 
 three-fold proportion, the annual value of the whole 
 field we occupied, and probably as much exceeding 
 also their first expectations as it did the value of what 
 we received ; yet, tempted by avarice, they pretend- 
 ed that we had not given them half enough ; and, as 
 our interpreters told us, (for they spoke Irish) abused 
 us extremely for intruding amongst them. On the 
 opposite side of the bay of Dingle, among the moun- 
 tains of Iveragh, w^here we had spent the preceding 
 week, a similar recompense was received with such 
 gratitude, that the owner of the field, and two of his 
 companions, followed our horses and baggage up- 
 wards of sixteen miles, for the sole purpose of assist- 
 ing in pitching our tents, and endeavouring to pro- 
 vide us with comfortable quarters in another part of 
 the country. Of this man we heard an anecdote 
 which deserves to be recorded. In another age, his 
 
224 
 
 heroism would have entitled him to a eivic crown 5 
 and, in this, where pecuniary compensations are so 
 commonly substituted in lieu of ideal honours, it was 
 rewarded with a purse of one hundred guineas from 
 the underwriters. 
 
 A large vessel, during a tempestuous night, had 
 been wrecked in the bay of Dingle. In the morning, 
 before the storm had yet subsided, her remains were 
 seen at a distance from shore, on an insulated bank of 
 sand, so situated that no boat could approach, while 
 the depth and breadth of the water which flowed 
 round the bank precluded three unfortunate suffer- 
 ers, who still adhered to the wreck, from attempting 
 to reach the shore. Their signals of distress were 
 distinctly seen by crowds of people, who gazed on 
 them from the beach with all the anxiety attending a 
 conscious incapacity to rescue them from their im- 
 pending fate. Our hero, however, conceived a pro- 
 ject which he executed with all the promptitude of 
 zealous humanity. He hastened to his farm, seized 
 one of his stoutest horses, and, having striped him- 
 self naked, mounted the animal and rushed into the 
 waves. The first victim within his reach was placed 
 on the horse behind him, and he returned to the shore 
 in triumph. The success with which the achieve- 
 ment was performed augmented his confidence and 
 courage. A second attempt bore off a second man ; 
 
225 
 
 nor did his exertions relax, amidst all the multiplied 
 perils of the storm, until he had landed the despair- 
 ing remnant of the crew in safety on the shore. 
 
 Greeted on his success with the loudest acclama- 
 tions, a general spirit of sympathy, in behalf of the 
 sufferers thus rescued, seemed to pervade the breasts 
 of the beholders. Eat, alas! there were some present 
 whose outward emotions but ill accorded wdth their 
 former conduct ; for to their depravity alone was to 
 be ascribed the melancholy catastrophe of the ship- 
 WTeck. The ship was homeward-bound from Suri- 
 nam, with a rich cargo, and, on the appearance of an 
 approaching tempest, had put into the bay of Dingle 
 for shelter ; where the master, not being acquainted 
 with the harbour, nor wxll aware of his exact situa- 
 tion, late in the evening, sent a boat to shore to make 
 the necessary inquiries, and procure a pilot. His 
 people were invited to a house, and offers made to 
 search for a person acquainted wdth the bay ; but no 
 pilot appearing, after a delay of some time, they felt 
 it their duty to return to the vessel. On arriving at 
 the boat, they found, however, to their dismay, that 
 the oars had been secreted. Thus prevented from 
 informing the captain of his danger, he remained in 
 ignorance of it ; and the vessel, exposed during the 
 night to the violence of the gale, drifted from her 
 anchors, and perished on the sands. 
 
 The bay of Dingle, near the scene of this unfortu- 
 
22G 
 
 nate calamity, is traversed by two long sand-banks^ 
 which, projecting from opposite sides, nearly meet, 
 and divide the bay into outer and inner harbours. 
 On the south side, the sand, having accumulated to 
 a great height, opposed a barrier to the waves, and a 
 considerable extent of ground was left dry behind it, 
 whicli, in process of time, was appropriated to culti- 
 vation. It was in this place the miscreants who had 
 been instrumental to the destruction of the vessel 
 had their farms 5 and not long after it happened, the 
 sea, rolling in with an unusual impetuosity, burst 
 through the mound, and completely overwhelmed 
 their whole property. That such atrocity vshould 
 have been marked by some signal retiibution, is a 
 common sentiment through the whole civilized world 5 
 but, in a country where the peculiar character of the 
 popular superstition is to impute a more immediate 
 agency to the divine power, it is not to be wondered 
 at that this event was universally attributed to the 
 vindictive judgment of offended Heaven. 
 
 The friendly and hospitable disposition of the 
 mountaineers of Iveragh far exceeded what we met 
 with elsewhere. As we traversed that wildest part of 
 Kerry, our tents each morning were surrounded with 
 people bringing presents of eggs, butter, poultry, and 
 fish, particularly trout, with whichthe streams abound ^ 
 and, on being informed that nothing would be ac- 
 cepted without payment, they went away apparently 
 
227 
 
 much disappointed. Curiosity to see a party of men 
 of a class somewhat different from what they were 
 accustomed to behold in this remote region, and, 
 above all, the novel spectacle of the tents, might 
 have operated as an incentive to their conduct on 
 these occasions ; but of the good will with which 
 the presents were offered there could be no doubt. 
 
 The morning of our departure, after being a few 
 days stationary in a valley, multitudes came down 
 from the sorrounding mountains ; and the process of 
 striking the tents was contemplated with as much 
 astonishment as we are told a similar occurrence pro- 
 duced among the natives of the Pellew islands. An 
 old man who had followed, with others, and to whom 
 some respect appeared to be shown, made a long ha- 
 rangue on the occasion. He concluded it, as we were 
 informed, (for he spoke in Irish) by observing, " That 
 he was then far advanced in years, and had seen and 
 heard of many extraordinary things, but to behold 
 people pull down their houses and carry them away 
 in bags, was a wondrous sight, which almost exceed* 
 ed behef " 
 
 Of the real comforts enjoyed by many of the pea- 
 sants of this country, whilst the exterior aspect of 
 their habitation is that of poverty, we had a convin- 
 cing proof at this place. In advancing towards it 
 over the mountains, we had been drenched with tor- 
 rents of rain, and had been obliged to wade through 
 
228 
 
 several streams which were suddenly swollen to a 
 great height. The length of the way the horses had 
 to travel through the valleys, and the miserable state 
 of the roads, as they were called, retarded the pro^ 
 gress of the baggage ; we entered a house, therefore, 
 to shelter ourselves from the storm till their arrival. 
 None of the women spoke English ; but, by signs 
 and gestures, they bade us welcome to their humble 
 habitation, and, perceiving our uncomfortable state, 
 eagerly assisted us in taking off our wet apparel. A 
 blazing fire was made to dry it ; and, in the mean 
 time, we were presented with shirts, coarse indeed, 
 but made up with all the neatness of a town laund- 
 ress ; a clean blanket also, taken from a large chesty 
 was thrown round the shoulders of each* No silly bash- 
 fulness was displayed on this occasion by the women, 
 although they were young and pretty. Their thoughts 
 seemed intent alone on offices of kindness, and they 
 lent a willing hand both in undressing and in robing 
 us. Presently the man of the house entered, who 
 spoke English ; he thanked us for our visit to him in 
 preference to another ; applauded the conduct of the 
 women in his absence, and hoped we had got to eat 
 the best his house could afford. Some potatoes and 
 wheaten cakes were toasting at the fire, a sight tempt- 
 ing to men whose appetites had been sharpened by 
 traversing a long tract of mountain during the incle- 
 mency of a storm : with the addition of eggs, milk, 
 
229 
 
 and butter, each excellent in kind, they were set on 
 a table covered with a clean cloth, and furnished a 
 feast, superior, perhaps, to what ever gratified the 
 pampered palate of a city alderman. 
 
 To describe every grand and beautiful scene 
 amongst these mountains would occupy volumes. 
 Uivers, lakes, cascades, rocks, and glens, are here 
 displayed in all their deHghtful variety ; and, from 
 the heights, the most sublime views open of the coast 
 and the Atlantic ocean. Woods, indeed, are want- 
 ing : the general aspect of the country is bleak ; yet 
 in a few of the glens we found coppices and thickets, 
 which overhung the water-falls, and, in som'e mea« 
 sure, supplied the deficiency. Each day that we 
 spent in these wilds afforded new delights ; and, a£ 
 ter an absence of weeks, it was not without regret 
 that we returned once more to the town of Killarney, 
 
230 
 
 SECTION IV. 
 
 KiLLARNEY may be ranked amongst the neatest of 
 the small towns of Ireland : the streets are of a com- 
 modious breadth, and well paved j and, on each side, 
 there are raised flagged ways for the convenience of 
 foot passengers. 
 
 The remoteness of the town from the lake occa- 
 sions much trouble to strangers; and, so far from 
 being attended with any advantage to the inhabitants, 
 exposes them to inconvenience, by placing them be- 
 yond the immediate reach of an object of prime ne- 
 cessity, — soft water. 
 
 It is often a very difficult matter to account satis- 
 factorily for the position of inland towns. Sometimes 
 it was determined by accident ; sometimes by arbi- 
 trary circumstances ; but it seldom depended on a 
 deliberate consideration of the permanent advantages 
 of the spot. In some instances, a town arose in the 
 neighbourhood of the dwelling of the lord of the soil, 
 in consequence of the security which it afforded to 
 his tenantry and dependants : in others, g-t the junc- 
 
231 
 
 tion of cross roads, where many travellers were likely 
 to pass ; and where some would be induced to tarry, 
 by the hopes of meeting companions for the remain- 
 der of their journey, in times of danger, when the 
 highways could not be safely passed by single per- 
 sons. Perhaps one, or both of these causes, might 
 have contributed to determine the situation of the 
 town of Killarney. Several leading roads pass through 
 it, and it stands contiguous to the mansion of Lord 
 Kenmare, the proprietor of a vast extent of the sur- 
 rounding country : but, to whatever cause the first 
 growth of the town is attributable, certain it is that 
 its present prosperity is owing to the liberality of his 
 lordship, in granting lots of ground upon easy term^ 
 to those who are inclined to build ; and it will pro- 
 bably continue to increase under the influence of the 
 same system. 
 
 The population of the town has been estimated at 
 five thousand persons ; but I suspect that the num- 
 ber is over-rated by at least one-fourth, although in 
 the principal streets I counted nearly three hundred 
 slated houses ; and, in the alleys and lanes which 
 branch from them in different directions, the habita? 
 tions are as crowded as in a populous city, where 
 every foot of ground becomes of importance. 
 
 The town contains many shops of different kinds, 
 which supply the mountaineers and the people of the 
 adjacent country with articles in common demand. 
 
232 
 
 It is also the seat of some manufactures. The prin- 
 cipal one is that of tanning, which is favoured by the 
 contiguity of the extensive woods of oak along the 
 shores of the lake. A species of strong coarse linen 
 is made there called handle linen, from an old Irish 
 measure of fourteen inches, of that name, by which 
 it is commonly sold ; and also, probably, from its 
 breadth being regulated by the same standard. In 
 some parts of the county of Cork there has been a 
 great demand for this narrow linen for exportation to 
 the West Indies, where it is employed in making 
 cinctures for the slaves. A branch of the cotton ma^ 
 nufactory was also established some years ago ; but 
 the machinery was not of the most approved con- 
 struction ; its progress was slow ; and the death of 
 one of the principal proprietors occasioned its decline. 
 
 Such crowds of people flock into the town on a 
 market-day, that it is difficult to pass through the 
 streets ; and on Sundays, and the numerous holidays 
 ' of the Roman Catholic church, most of which are re- 
 ligiously observed, the streets are not less thronged. 
 The latter days seem more especially appropriated to 
 the purchase of finery for the females, and the shops 
 are kept half open to supply them. 
 
 Killarney is the residence of the Roman Catholic 
 bishop of the diocese : his chapel is spacious, and 
 mass is celebrated in it with much pomp. In its vi- 
 cinity stands a convent for nuns, who appear to (ie- 
 
233 
 
 vote the principal part of their time to the education 
 of young persons of their own sex. 
 
 Irish is very generally spoken in the town ; and 
 many of the inhabitants, equally with those in the 
 wilder parts of the county, are unacquainted with 
 any other language : English, however, is becoming 
 every year more prevalent. Notwithstanding the long 
 neglect of this latter tongue, it is asserted that Latin 
 has been very generally studied in Kerry, even by 
 the lowest ranks of the people j and I have heard 
 more than one gentleman bear testimony to the cir- 
 cumstance of bare-footed boys having been found 
 reading classical authors in the fields. It is related 
 of one of these poor fellows, that, upon an expostu- 
 lation having been made with him on such an unpro- 
 fitable use of his time, he replied, with much spirit, — ^ 
 
 " Est quodam prodire tenus, si non datur ultra." 
 
 " Classical reading," says Dr Smith, in his History 
 of Kerry, *' extends itself even to a fault amongst the 
 lower and poorer kinds of this country ; many of 
 whom, to the taking them off more useful work, 
 have greater knowledge in this way than some of the 
 better sort of other places. Neither is the genius of 
 the commonalty confined to this kind of learning 
 alone ; for I saw a poor man, near Blackstones, who 
 had a tolerable notion of calculating the epacts, gold- 
 en numbers, dominical letter, the moon's phases, and 
 
^34 
 
 even eclipses, although he had never been taught 
 to read EngHsh." Similar testimony is borne by other 
 writers : — " In alighting to take a view of the ancient 
 family-seat at Pallice, I gave the bridle of my horse 
 to a poor boy, who seemed to look for it with eager- 
 ness. From his manner of answering some questions 
 I asked him, I was led to inquire into his situation ; 
 and was not a little surprised to find that, though 
 sunk in the most abject poverty, he was, neverthe- 
 less, a good classical scholar. He was well acquaint- 
 ed with the best Latin poets ; had read over most of 
 the historians ; and was then busy with the Orations 
 of Cicero. I found, upon further inquiry, that this 
 classical spirit is very general among the lower sort 
 of people in Kerry." — Desaipion of Killarnei/, — - 
 Anonymous, 
 
 These accounts, however, are either much exag- 
 gerated, or the taste for classical learning is less pre- 
 valent than it was formerly 5 for, notwithstanding my 
 earnest endeavours during the time I continued in 
 Kerry, I was unable to procure an interview with one 
 of these learned peasants. A gentleman of my ac- 
 quaintance, indeed, who was with me at Killarney, 
 once happened to be present when a poor boy came 
 into the inn yard, and asked for alms in Latin ; and 
 he observed that several of the towns-folk, who were 
 by-standers, replied to him in that language, and, for 
 some minutes, continued the conversation with appa- 
 
<235 
 
 rent facility. But that some knowledge of Latin 
 should obtain in a place where the service of the pre- 
 vailing religion is performed in that language, is not 
 very extraordinary ; and, in almost every part of Ire- 
 land, poor boys, the offspring of mean, though ambi- 
 tious parents, are occasionally met with, who have 
 been instructed in that language for the purpose of 
 qualifying them at a future period for the priesthood. 
 There are three inns at Killarney ; but the accom* 
 modations they afford are not, on the whole, calcula- 
 ted to induce strangers to remain beyond the period 
 that is absolutely necessary to gratify their curiosity. 
 This I may illustrate by stating that not one of them, 
 as late as the year 1 806, afforded a coach-house ; so 
 that, if it were not for the permission commonly 
 granted to strangers, of having their carriages put 
 into one of those attached to the residence of Lord 
 Kenmare, there would be no alternative but leaving 
 them exposed to the wxather. As the inns are not 
 sufficiently spacious to admit the great number of 
 strangers who resort to the town during the summer 
 months, the proprietors of private houses find an ad- 
 vantage in having apartments for hire ; and those 
 who reside in them can have every necessary for the 
 table supplied with tolerable neatness and regularity, 
 and at a very moderate expense, from the inn. It is 
 much to be regretted that there is no place of public 
 accommodation, not even a single house, on the con- 
 
236 
 
 fines of the lake, where apartments can be procured ; 
 for, independent of the inconvenience of going and 
 returning, some disgust is liable to be felt at the sud- 
 den transition from the rural and sequestered scenery 
 of the lake to the hurry and bustle of a noisy town, 
 which is always crowded with idle people, and among 
 whom beggars, as in every place of public resort in Ire- 
 land, bear a very conspicuous proportion. In this re- 
 spect it is that Killarriey appears so much less attrac- 
 tive than the lakes of the north of England ; it affords 
 none of those delightful retreats which abound in the 
 latter country ; and which invite the passing stranger 
 to tarry and examine the surrounding scenery at lei- 
 sure ; on the contrary, while the eye is allured by 
 the charms of nature, the mind is continually dis- 
 tressed and perplexed by the difficulties which are 
 interposed to the enjoyment of the scene by the ne- 
 glect and indolence of the inhabitants. 
 
 I shall now proceed to give a brief account of the 
 different routes to Killarney, beginning at Limerick, 
 Mallow, and Cork, through one or other of which 
 places almost every stranger passes in going thither. 
 
 Limerick affords the shortest route from DubKn, 
 and from the northern parts of the kingdom ; and 
 from this place three distinct roads branch off to Kil- 
 larney, which differ only a few miles in length. The 
 first runs along the banks of the Shannon as far as 
 Ballylongford, and thence through Listowel and Tra« 
 
237 
 
 lee: the second through the midst of the mountains/ 
 by Newcastle, Abbey-feale, and Castle island : the 
 third by BrufF, Kilmallock, and Charleville, through 
 Mallow, where it unites with another road. 
 
 If either of the two first roads from Limerick is se- 
 lected, the traveller should proceed to Adare, on ac- 
 count of the several curious ruins at that place. It 
 is beautifully situated in the midst of an improved 
 wooded country, and was once a large town, but is 
 now reduced to a miserable village, which derives its 
 only consequence from the remains of antiquity, and 
 its contiguity to the noble park of Lord Adare. The 
 river Maig flows through the park and village, with 
 a smooth but strong current : on its banks, near the 
 bridge, are seea the ruins of the ancient castle that 
 formerly defended the town, and which still preserves 
 its insular situation, being surrounded by deep and 
 broad moats, filled by water from the river. It once 
 resisted a very long siege ; and, when the garrison 
 was supposed to be on the point of surrendering, a 
 vigorous sally, inspired by the despair of famine, car- 
 ried confusion into the ranks of the assailants, and 
 raised the blockade. In the wars of Desmond, how- 
 ever, notwithstanding the apparent strength of the 
 fortifications, it was taken and retaken many diffe- 
 rent times. 
 
 The most interesting of the ruins are the abbeys, 
 whose lofty quadrangular towers, rising above the 
 
238 
 
 summits of the ancient trees by which they are en« 
 veloped, produce a most deHghtful effect. The lar- 
 gest and most perfect of these edifices stands in the 
 park of Lord Adare, and forms a noble embellishment 
 to his improvements. In the cloister of it there are 
 ^ome curious pieces of ancient sculpture, and seve- 
 ral of the windows are decorated with escutcheons, 
 bearing alternately a cros^ and saltien In the style 
 of all these buildings a striking similarity is obser- 
 vable, particularly in their tall square steeples. The 
 oldest of them is in the Trinitarian abbey, or friary, 
 which was founded in the reign of Edward the First, 
 for the redemption of Christian captives : belonging 
 to it there were friars of the order of St Augustine ; 
 preaching friars ; and grey friars. The Augustinian 
 friary, the next in point of age, was founded in the 
 year 1315 ; and the Grey friary, of which there only 
 remains the steeple, in 1465.* These abbeys were 
 all extremely rich ; and, in the enumeration of their 
 possessions, which were granted by Queen Ehzabeth 
 to Sir Henry Wallop, mention is made of their hou- 
 ses, tenements, burgages, parks, gardens, arable and 
 pasture lands, water-mills, fishing^weirs, &c. The 
 Grey friary was the most wealthy of all : besides ha- 
 ving three parks, gardens, lands, &c. &c., it enjoyed 
 
 * ArchdalPs Monasticon Flib. 
 
239 
 
 not only the tithes of Adare, but also those of twenty- 
 seven other towns. 
 
 The road along the Shannon does not afford a con- 
 tinued prospect of that river ; and, when seen, it is 
 rather to be admired for its great breadth and majes- 
 tic windings, than for its picturesque beauty. The 
 country on each side is generally hilly and open. The 
 most agreeable views on the river are at the mouths 
 of some of the streams which fall into it, where one 
 may occasionally see an old castle, surrounded with 
 the huts of fishermen, and shaded by a few trees. 
 
 The first inn at which the traveller can stop with 
 any satisfaction, is that at Tarbort, the neatness of 
 which, on my first visit, w^as extraordinary. 
 
 Listowel, though a considerable town, yields the 
 very worst accommodation. The market-place forms 
 a spacious square, and derives an air of importance 
 fi'om the gateway of the old castle, which stands be- 
 tween two lofty round towers, occupying one side of 
 the square. The castle extended from this entrance 
 along the brow of the hill, and nearly overhung the 
 river ; but its walls are now quite in ruins. Between 
 this place and the Shannon, the road crosses a bog of 
 great extent : afterwards it passes through a cultivated 
 country ; but there is nothing very interesting in the 
 scenery until it reaches the mountains beyond Tralee, 
 where a distant prospect of Killarney is disclosed. 
 
 Tralee is a very thriving town, in which many new 
 
240 
 
 houses have lately been erected : it contains an inn 
 with commodious apartments, but cleanliness and re- 
 gularity were not to be enumerated amongst its re- 
 commendations. 
 
 The accommodations along the second road from 
 Limerick through Newcastle and Abbey-feale, are 
 still worse than on that which has already been men- 
 tioned. Indeed, when I passed it in the year 1 804, 
 it did not afford a single inn fit to receive a female 
 habituated to the conveniences and comforts of ci- 
 vilized life. We observed, however, that they were 
 building a new inn at Abbey-feale. This road is very 
 liable to be injured by mountain torrents ; when we 
 travelled it, it was barely passable for a carriage. 
 The country through which it runs is wild, but not 
 interesting ; and the lake is not seen beyond the 
 distance of five or six miles. ^ 
 
 The chief inducement for selecting the third route 
 from Limerick, by the way of Kilmallock, is to see 
 the extraordinary ruins of that place, which has been 
 styled the Balbec or Palmyra of Ireland ; and cer- 
 tainly, so far as a contrast between former magnifi- 
 cence and present misery contributes to the parallel, 
 it may be said to bear a striking resemblance to the 
 remains of those once celebrated cities of the east. 
 
 Kilmallock was the capital of Desmond's domi- 
 nions ; and as he was the most wealthy, and, at the 
 same time, the most powerful subject in the kingdom, 
 
24 i 
 
 SO this his largest city was distinguished above every 
 other, by the beauty and splendour of its edifices. It 
 is said to have contained numerous castles, churches, 
 and abbeys, besides many extensive palaces of mar- 
 ble ; and the generality of the houses, also built of 
 hewn stone, were placed with regularity along the 
 lines of straight and spacious streets. A lofty wall, 
 strengthened at intervals by towers, defended the 
 city on every side, and each gate, or entrance, was 
 protected by a castle. Tradition relates, that when 
 the commander of the parliamentary army entered 
 Kilmallock, he w^as so struck with its uncommon 
 beauty, that, contrary to the dictates of that cruel 
 policy which had led to the destruction of every for- 
 tified town, and every castle and habitation of the 
 Irish, he resolved to spare the place : but having af* 
 terwards learned that nearly the whole of the inhabit- 
 ants bore the same name, he judged it imprudent to 
 leave so powerful a confederacy in quiet possession 
 of their property ; and, adding another to the nume- 
 rous examples of vengeance which had already been 
 exercised to strike terror into the enemy, he gave 
 orders to demolish the city. 
 
 Only one of the castellated gates yet continues en- 
 tire, and the limits of the walls and fortifications can 
 no longer be traced ; but of the ancient town suffici- 
 ent still remains, to shew that it must have displayed 
 a scene of wealth and splendour superior in its day 
 
 Q 
 
242 
 
 to every other place in Ireland. The most remark- 
 able of all the ruins, because the most uncommon, are 
 the remains of a wide street with a range of houses 
 on each side, the walls of which, built of hewn lime- 
 stone, appear as fresh as the day they were finished. 
 The plans of these houses are nearly all the same. They 
 present two or more gable ends to the street, and are 
 divided into three stories. The entrances, by spaci- 
 ous portals with semicircular arches, open into small 
 halls, which communicate with broad passages, that 
 probably contained the stairs, whence there are door- 
 ways leading to the principal apartments. The win- 
 dows, of a square form, and small in proportion to 
 the size of the rooms, are divided into compartments 
 by one or more uprights, and sometimes by a cross of 
 stone. The chimney-pieces are large and lofty, and 
 the fire-places calculated for containing huge piles of 
 wood. All the ornaments are of a very simple kind ; 
 and, from dates carved on some of them, it appears 
 that they were sculptured during the reign of EHza- 
 beth. As the walls were quite firm, these houses, at 
 a moderate expense, might be converted into very 
 comfortable dwellings : a few of them have been 
 partially repaired in a clumsy manner, and are actu- 
 ally inhabited ; but the greater part lie quite ne- 
 glected, or are converted into receptacles for cattle, 
 and for manure. Within some, we found huts of the 
 very poorest description, built in the corners of the 
 
24S 
 
 principal ground apartments, inhabited by people 
 whose squalid aspect bespoke the utmost misery. 
 
 The town at present occupies the brow of a small 
 hill, at the bottom of which runs a stream ; but it is 
 probable that it once, also, extended along the oppo- 
 site bank, as the remains of several spacious rehgious 
 buildings are observable there. It is the fate of these 
 edifices to be exposed to still greater injury than 
 those in the town ; the walls being broken down, 
 and the stones carried away, whenever the inhabit- 
 ants of the adjacent district are in want of materials 
 for a house or a fence. 
 
 The cloister of one of the largest abbeys has been 
 converted into a farm-yard, and the piazza around it 
 into stalls for bullocks. Here, half covered with a 
 heap of dirt, I found a sculptured stone, probably the 
 remains of a tomb, with an inscription to commemo- 
 rate the death of three young men, brothers, who 
 were slain in the civil wars during the year 1642.* 
 
 * This epitaph, evidently written in hexameter and pentameter 
 verses, is inscribed on the stone, without any attention to the proper 
 terminations of the lines. Two alone, the first and fifth, are correctly 
 engraved ; of the others, some begin in the middle of the verses, and 
 some even with the latter syllables of words, for which there was not 
 sufficient space in the preceding line. It should stand thus : — 
 
 1642. 
 Tertia lux caesos rriemorat Septembris in anno 
 
 Quam legis ; heu ! nondum tres tenet urn^ senes, ] 
 
244^ 
 
 In the centre of the chancel of the church, belong- 
 ing to the same abbey, stands a tomb in tolerable 
 preservation, which a Latin inscription denotes to be 
 that of the White Knights. Many other interesting 
 
 Marte novo * fratresque ruunt tria pignora justa : 
 Jus patriae causam, Rexque, Fidesque probant. 
 Integer attritis reperitur candor in extis 
 
 Virginis, et veri purpura marturii. 
 Lilia purpureos inter sudantia fluctus 
 
 Tres meruere. Trium nomina marmor habet. 
 Fratres — Georgius -\ 
 
 Alexander >Burgate. 
 Nep * * * 3 
 
 " The third day of September, in the year which you read, re- 
 cords these slain ; alas ! the urn contains three men not yet old. 
 Brothers and three just pledges, {children,) they fall in a new war. 
 The king and religion approve the right and the cause of the coun- 
 try. The untainted purity of a virgin is found in their worn-out re- 
 mains, and the purple [blood) of a real martyrdom. The three me- 
 rited lilies t exhaling (^odoms) amidst the bloody waves. This marble 
 preserves their name, 
 
 George -^ 
 Alexander >Burgate.'* 
 Nep * * * 3 
 
 The Burgates took an active part in the great rebellion of 1641, 
 and were consequently involved in the contentions which followed. 
 Amongst the depositions relative to the year 1641, existing in MS. 
 in the library of Trinity College, Dublin, it appears that John Bur- 
 gate, Esq. of Kilmallock, was an officer of the Irish army. In July, 
 164'2, he was present when the Irish took from Lady Elizabeth Dow- 
 dall, of Kilfinny, her castle : he was also present, with several thousand 
 
 • Substituted in lieu of the corrupt word, marteneros, which appears on the 
 stone. 
 
 + The lily was an emblem of martyrdom. 
 
245 
 
 relics of antiquity are doubtless to be seen at Kil- 
 mallock ; but, as I only stopped there for a few 
 hours, and was prevented by torrents of rain from 
 taking more than a very slight view of the town, I 
 am unable to give a fuller account of it. In the 
 Monasticon Hibernicum, Kilmallock is only slightly 
 mentioned, and I have never met with a detailed de- 
 scription of its ruins. 
 
 The misery of Kilmallock is to be attributed, seem- 
 ingly, to the total want of manufactures, and to the 
 land of the surrounding country being almost wholly 
 devoted to grazing bullocks. The peasantry are few, 
 and their condition abject. Indeed, throughout this 
 district, man seems to derive less benefit from the 
 bountiful gifts of nature, than the beasts which re- 
 pose in the luxuriant meadows. The roads through 
 
 rebels, at the taking of the castle of Croom, in the county of Lime- 
 rick ; which last was given to him in custody. It appears also, that 
 the battle of Liscarrol, a place about twelve miles distant from Kil- 
 mallock, was fought between the English and Irish armies on the 3d 
 of September, 1642 ; in which the latter were routed, according to 
 the manuscript account, with the loss of eight hundred men killed ; 
 whilst twelve only were killed on the part of the English. I am in- 
 debted for these illustrations to an ingenious and learned member of 
 the university of Dublin. 
 
 The epitaph is a striking proof that the Irish considered the re- 
 bellion of 1641, and the subsequent wars, to be the common cause 
 of the country, approved of by the king, (Charles I.) and sanction- 
 ed by religion : and the publicity of the monument on which it was 
 inscribed, serves to shew the weakness of the English interest in this 
 part of the countr}^ for some time afterwards. 
 
246 
 
 this country are good ; but the inns between Lime- 
 rick and Mallow are all of the very poorest descrip- 
 tion. 
 
 Mallow^ is beautifully situated on the rich banks of 
 the river Blackwater, in the centre of a district, which 
 is embellished with numerous gentlemen's seats. The 
 place is celebrated for a spring, which throws up an 
 abundant supply of very pure water, resembling that 
 of the hot-wells near Bristol. It is much resorted to 
 by invalids from the southern parts of Ireland, who 
 labour under consumptions and other complaints. 
 
 Public rooms are opened here in the season for the 
 recreation of the visitors ; but the improvement of 
 the town is strangely neglected ; and a place which 
 might easily be rendered extremely attractive, at pre- 
 sent holds out few inducements, except the natural 
 salubrity of its air and water. 
 
 From Mallow to Killarney, the road runs for some 
 miles along the banks of the Blackwater, through a 
 country highly improved and well wooded ; but, as 
 it advances, the scenery becomes less interesting, and, 
 in the vicinity of the village of Mill-street, about fif- 
 teen miles from Killarney, it enters a bleak and moun- 
 tainous region. Mill-street is situated at the junction 
 of the Cork and Mallow roads ; and, being a place 
 of great thoroughfare, it affords much business to a 
 considerable inn, which has hitherto been one of the 
 very best in the country. Hence to Killarney the 
 
247 
 
 roacl passes alternately over bogs and mountains, and 
 the country affords little that is pleasing, until a view 
 of the lake is discovered from the mountains at the 
 distance of a few miles. From Cork to Mill-street 
 the road is still more dreary, passing over mountains, 
 where, for many miles, no human beings are seen but 
 the drivers of the numerous horses which are employ- 
 ed in transporting butter from Kerry. Yet, bleak and 
 dreary as this country now appears, a century, it is 
 said, has scarcely elapsed, since the w^hole of it was 
 so thickly covered with wood, that, to use the expres- 
 sion of those from whom I received the account, a 
 squirrel could go from Killarney to Cork by leaping 
 from bough to bough. 
 
 The road through Mill-street is the direct one from 
 Cork to Killarney ; but there are several others which 
 are far more agreeable in point of scenery : as by 
 Bandon, Bantry, &c. My first excursion to Killar- 
 ney was made from Cork, along the sea coast ; and, 
 as it afforded a view of a part of the country, which, 
 though rarely visited, abounds in objects of interest 
 and curiosity, I shall devote the following and con- 
 cluding section to a few observations that were made 
 during the journey. 
 
^48 
 
 SECTION V. 
 
 The first town which we came to on the coast was 
 Kinsale, situated at the distance of fourteen miles 
 from Cork ; a place of great antiquity, and celebra- 
 ted in the annals of Irish history for having with- 
 stood various sieges. William the Third, indignant 
 at its resistance to his forces, ordered its strong 
 walls and fortifications, on the land side, to be de- 
 stroyed ; those towards the sea, however, were not 
 only suffered to remain entire, but even strengthened. 
 The town is built on an elevated bank at the head of 
 an inlet of the sea, which affords one of the most safe 
 and commodious harbours on the coast ; and it con- 
 tains the only king's dock-yard in Ireland. From the 
 water, the houses have an agreeable appearance, rising 
 above each other in stages from the bottom to the 
 very summit of the bank. The streets are very nar- 
 row, and the precipitous ascents and descents render 
 them still more incommodious. Many ancient houses 
 still remain inhabited, which exhibit specimens of 
 architecture totally different from what is observable 
 
249 
 
 in any of the towns on the eastern coast of the king- 
 dom ; in each story, to the front, there are balconies, 
 or httle galleries, which occupy the centre of the 
 house, and communicate at each extremity with large 
 bowed windows. There are several remains of castles 
 and religious buildings in diiferent parts of the town, 
 but none of the ruins are remarkable for their pictu- 
 resque appearance. The town and liberties contain 
 near seven thousand acres, and are governed by a so- 
 vereign and a recorder. 
 
 From Kinsale to Clonikelty, the road runs through 
 a country agreeably diversified with hill and valley, 
 affording, at intervals, several pleasing prospects of 
 the sea. Clonikelty was once, it is said, a place of 
 considerable trade, and returned two members to the 
 Irish parliament ; but the entrance to the harbour 
 having been obstructed by the accumulation of sand, 
 its trade declined : * the houses, though numerous, 
 are in general of a poor description. 
 
 At the distance of a few miles from Clonikelty, 
 stands Castle Freke, the seat of Lord Carbery, beau- 
 tifully situated on the sea shore, which is here indent- 
 
 * The Rev. Mr Townsend, author of the late statistical survey of 
 Cork, published 1810, has informed me, since the above was writ- 
 ten, that the bar at the mouth of the harbour has not undergone 
 any material alteration for the last twenty -five years ; that the trade 
 of the place has increased within his recollection, and that the num- 
 ber of houses is greater now than at any former period. 
 
 9 
 
250 
 
 ed by bold promontories formed of craggy rocks, 
 whose dark colom' affords a striking contrast to those 
 of the green and transparent waves of the Atlantic, 
 which roll against them. These rocks are rendered 
 still more romantic, by the vast caverns worn ia them 
 by the attrition of the water. At the base of the cliffs 
 lies a sandy beach, where, at certain seasons, immense 
 numbers of people are employed, during low water, 
 in collecting sea-weed for manure j which is drifted 
 in as well by eddies and currents as by the regular 
 influx of the tide. 
 
 That the accumulation of the weed is not entirely 
 dependent on the flood-tide, is obvious from the cir- 
 cumstance of trees of foreign growth having been in 
 several instances washed in along with it. Soon after 
 the building of Castle-Freke was commenced, one of 
 these trees, of enormous size, was drifted into the 
 bay : the smaller branches had been all beaten off by 
 the waves ; and the stem was thickly covered with 
 barnacles, a proof of its having been long at sea : its 
 interior part, however, was perfectly sound, and a 
 beautiful floor in the castle was formed of the boards 
 which it produced : it was of the pine tribe, and of 
 the growth, as was conjectured, of South America.* 
 
 * At the town of Beerhaven, in Bantry-bay, we saw part of a vast 
 tree which had been drifted on the shore there in a similar manner. 
 After two long pieces had been cut off at the butt-end, the stem was 
 
251 
 
 Besides the sea-weed, another vahiable species ol' 
 manure is procured upon this shore, which is very ge- 
 nerally used in the adjoining district, and occasional- 
 ly is carried to a distance exceeding twelve miles. It 
 consists of a sand formed of shells of various descrip- 
 tions, finely comminuted, and slightly intermixed with 
 small grains of quartz, and it is found on one bank 
 alone. Sometimes this bank is nearly exhausted ; but 
 the first storm never fails to replenish it with a fresh 
 supply of the same valuable material. The sand is 
 sprinkled on the ground with the hand ; and if plen- 
 tifully disseminated, its beneficial effects will be ob- 
 served for seven or eight years. Its value has been 
 long known to individuals in the neighbourhood ; 
 but we were informed it had not been in general 
 use for more than three or four years preceding our 
 visit at Castle-Freke in the 1800. It would be impos- 
 sible to have a manure better adapted to the stiff ar- 
 gillaceous soil of this country. * 
 
 still nearly six feet in diameter. The wood was a pale yellow co- 
 lour, and so hard, that, although timber is remarkably scarce in that 
 part of the country, no person would be at the pains, owing to the 
 great labour it required, to saw off another piece ; and it had lain 
 for some time neglected on the beach. 
 
 * The shape and the extent of sand-banks on the sea-shore are 
 very commonly altered by storms, and particularly during high tides ; 
 but I have lately been informed, that the one at Clonikelty under- 
 goes no change. Let the weather be ever so calm, the water ever 
 go low, and the numbers who resort to it for manure ever so great, 
 like the purse of Fortunatus, the bank always affords an undiminish- 
 
252 
 
 A ruinous practice prevailed here, of abandoning 
 the land for some years to the care of nature, after it 
 had been totally exhausted by repeated crops of corn. 
 Nothing could be more wretched, in consequence, 
 than the appearance of many of the fields : the stiff 
 clay, dried by the heat of the sun, and split into deep 
 fissures, seemed in some instances to have lost the 
 power of vegetation, and in others yielded merely a 
 few tufts of noxious weeds and unprofitable grass : 
 yet in these fields the miserable ewes, whose milk 
 forms a principal part of the food of the people 
 during summer, were left to pick a scanty suste- 
 nance ; fettered, too, in order to prevent them from 
 wandering in search of more palatable and nourish- 
 ing food. 
 
 Sir John Freke, now Lord Carbery, took great pains 
 to point out the impolicy of this system, and to in- 
 troduce the culture of clover and artificial grasses. No 
 clover seed, it was answered, could be procured in the 
 country. He himself took the pains of importing it, 
 and distributed it in small quantities amongst the 
 petty farmers. It was carefully sown. Each indivi- 
 dual was delighted w^ith the result, and expressed the 
 greatest obligation for the valuable communication 
 
 ed supply. The same gentleman has assured me, that the manure 
 sand has, to his knowledge, been in high reputation these forty 
 years ; and that on some lands it is spread very thickly. 
 
2CS 
 
 and friendly assistance : but, strange to tell, notwith- 
 standing the most decided advantage had been gain- 
 ed from this new system of husbandry, notwithstand- 
 ing also a quantity of seed had been imported for sale 
 into a neighbouring town, not one of these people 
 would repeat the experiment. To find a solution for 
 the motives of this conduct, so militant against the 
 common principles that regulate the feelings of man- 
 kind, may appear an arduous task ; but the truth is, 
 that the lower classes of the Irish cannot at once ba- 
 nish from their recollection the traditions of ancient 
 oppression, and are with difficulty persuaded that any 
 measure decidedly beneficial to them can be adopt- 
 ed, or recommended, solely for their advantage. They 
 are prone to suspect some sinister purpose in every 
 effort to improve their condition, by which, ultimate- 
 ly, they may be compelled to pay a higher rent, and 
 toil more laboriously. Influenced by this prevailing 
 principle, they appear unwilling to deviate from the 
 beaten track in which their forefathers trod ; and of- 
 ten assume an appearance of misery and poverty, to 
 enjoy, as they imagine, a proportionable degree of 
 security. The generous landholder, therefore, who 
 commiserates their abject state, should not be deter- 
 red, by the ill success which attends his first benevo- 
 lent efforts, from persevering in his plan ; or attri- 
 bute to brutal incapacity that reluctance to receive 
 
254 
 
 advice, which may be accounted for without im- 
 peaching either the hearts or understanding of the 
 people. In numerous instances, the condition of the 
 Irish peasants has certainly been materially meliora- 
 ted of late years by the influence and example of 
 men of liberal minds ; and it is ardently to be hoped, 
 that a system at once calculated to afford benefit to 
 the landlord, comfort to the tenant, and prosperity 
 and peace to the country, may be more freely adopt, 
 ed and widely diffused.* 
 
 * In the late statistical survey of Cork, alluded to in the prece- 
 ding pages, the revereHd author has quoted this passage, and he adds, 
 " that it is hard to say, whether text or comment betray most 
 marks of ignorance and misconception ; that the account of this dis- 
 trict, communicated by a person born in its vicinity, long acquaint- 
 ed with the manners and language, sufficiently exposes the Jhlsehood 
 of a statement, which, indeed, it would be almost impossible to cre- 
 dit, were there no other commentator than its own absurdity.'* 
 (Page 283.) That " to find a solution for difficulties that exist only 
 in the author's imagination, is an undertaking savouring somewhat of 
 Quixotism; it reminds one of the renowned knight's ingenuity in 
 creating giants for the purpose of conquering them," &c. &c. He 
 
 further tells his readers, that " Mr W passed only one night at 
 
 Castle-Freke, on his way to Killarney, and might possibly have mis- 
 taken the dreams of the pillow for the conversation of the parlour." 
 
 Notwithstanding these, and many other remarks of a similar ten- 
 dency, I have resolved to leave the passage as it originally stood, 
 because, as I verily believe, the castle was not enchanted, and I can- 
 not distrust the evidence of my own senses. Though but one night 
 at Castle-Freke, I spent two whole mornings in rambling along the 
 coast ; one of them under the very polite and friendly guidance of 
 Lord Carbery. I trod upon several of the fields which I described ; 
 
255 
 
 From Castle-Freke we proceeded to Ross, a small 
 town situated at the head of the bay of the same 
 name, chiefly remarkable for its ancient celebrity ; 
 for it is said to have been once the seat of an univer- 
 
 and obtained the information, which I detailed respecting them, 
 from that very source to which Mr Townsend would fain refer me 
 as being the most authentic. This gentleman, indeed, admits in his 
 book, that Lord Carbery's endeavours to extend the culture of clo- 
 ver were not equal to his lordship's wishes ; but, he says, I could 
 have learned nothing more on the subject : It would be very idle to 
 dispute this point ; it is quite sufficient to my purpose, to be able to 
 state, that the most laudable exertions on the part of an enlighten- 
 ed and benevolent resident landlord were not wanting to introduce 
 an improved system of agriculture into the country, and yet, not- 
 withstanding such exertions, numerous fields, in the year 1800, pre« 
 sented the appearance which I have described. 
 
 With regard to the solution which I have offered, it is possible I 
 may be much mistaken. The unwillingness usually found amongst 
 the lower orders of people, in almost every country, to depart from 
 old customs, may, perhaps, in itself, sufficiently account for the ne- 
 gligent conduct which I have noticed ; but I have seen so many in^ 
 stances to confirm me in the opinion, that I am satisfied a large 
 portion of the Irish peasantry, in declining the adoption of new and 
 better practices in agriculture, as well as other things, are actuated, 
 not only by the vulgar prejudices common to them with other peo- 
 ple, but also by fear and suspicion, lest the instruction proffered to 
 them with seeming benevolence should have originated in very dif- 
 ferent sentiments, and be intended, eventually, more for the interest 
 of the adviser than the advised. Is it possible to believe that the 
 penalties and restrictions of those execrable laws, which disgraced 
 the statute books during the greater part of the last century, have 
 had no influence on the moral conduct of the people ? Is it possible 
 to suppose their baneful effect would cease the moment that they 
 were repealed ? No ; the waves of the ocean continue turbulent long 
 after the blast which put them into motion has subsided. 
 
256 
 
 sity, which was resorted to by all the youth of distin- 
 guished families in the south of Ireland : it still con- 
 tinues to be a bishop's see, united to that of Cork ; a 
 cathedral was founded here as early as the sixth cen- 
 tury. 
 
 From Ross we proceeded to Baltimore, by the way 
 of Castle-Townsend and Skibbereen. 
 
 The prevailing stone of this district is a dark ar- 
 gillaceous schistus, somewhat similar to that at Clo- 
 nikelty : siliceous schistus, intersected by veins of 
 quartz, and quartz coated with chlorite, are also com- 
 mon ; but there is no calcareous stone whatsoever. 
 Inquiring, as we advanced, if any minerals of pecu- 
 liar variety or value had been discovered in the neigh- 
 bourhood, we were informed that silver ore had been 
 found in several different places ; and that a family, 
 resident near the Priest's Leap, between Ross and 
 Castle Townsend, had, from time to time, gathered 
 small quantities of it, which had been manufactured 
 for them by a silversmith at Cork, into spoons and 
 other articles of domestic use : the source was kept 
 
 Mr Townsend says, he is persuaded that Mr W will rejoice 
 
 to find that clover, so far from being discontinued in this quarter, is 
 rising in repute, notwithstanding its increase in price. 1 do indeed 
 rejoice at it, and at every improvement in my native land ; nor did 
 I ever entertain a doubt that the laudable endeavours which were 
 made to introduce the culture of that valuable plant, would, sooner 
 or later, be attended with the happiest result. 
 
257 
 
 a profound secret. That the precious metals were 
 formerly found in great abundance in different parts 
 of Ireland is evident, as well from the great number 
 of valuable golden ornaments that have been found 
 beneath the surface of the earth, as from the testi- 
 mony both of Irish and foreign historians. Giraldus 
 Cambrensis describes the island, in his time, as 
 abounding with gold ; and, in a memoir by M. De- 
 larue, on the History of Caen, in Normandy, it is 
 stated, that, by order of the Norman princes, 23,730 
 marks of silver had been transmitted to that city 
 from the English exchequer ; besides 400 marks and 
 200 ounces of gold from Ireland, The late discovery 
 of native gold on Croaghan mountain,* on the bor. 
 
 * The discovery of gold on this mountain was first made public in 
 the month of September, 1795, by the quarrel of two men to whom 
 the secret had been known for some time previously. Thousands of 
 people instantly flocked to the place, whose researches were attend- 
 ed with various success. Amongst others, a young boy was attract- 
 ed to the spot. Watching his opportunity whilst a party of men 
 were reposing after a long and unavailing search, he stole into the 
 pit which they had dug, and, groping at the bottom, immediately 
 drew out a piece of gold of the value of 20/. On being seen, he 
 was driven away from the place : no suspicions, however, were en- 
 tertained of his good fortune, and he succeeded in depositing his 
 prize in the hands of a gentleman of the country. On being told 
 the value, and consulted how it was to be employed, he instantly 
 requested, of his own accord, that a cow might be bought for his 
 widowed mother, and he himself bound apprentice to a carpenter. 
 A more judicious disposal could not have been made, and his wishes 
 were faithfully complied with. I heard this anecdote on the spot 
 from unquestionable authority. 
 
 R 
 
258 
 
 ders of the counties of Wicklow and Wexford, is a 
 strong corroboration of these accounts ; and it may 
 reasonably be presumed that there are many sources 
 of the precious metals in the country with which we 
 still remain unacquainted. 
 
 It was calculated that 800 ounces, valued at £3 i 15 per ounce, 
 were found by the peasantry in the course of six weeks. One piece 
 was taken up weighing 22 ounces, the largest ever found in Europe ; 
 and, strange to say, this most valuable and curious specimen, after 
 having been offered in vain for sale to several cabinets, was consign- 
 ed to the melting-pot. In the month of October, a military force 
 was sent by government to take possession of the place, more for 
 the purpose of tranquillizing the country, by dispersing the crowds, 
 than asserting the claims of the crown. In the following year, how- 
 ever, a commission, formed of Messrs. Mills and Weaver, proprietors 
 of the Gronebane copper-mine, and Mr King, a magistrate of the 
 county, was appointed to direct the further search ; under whose 
 guidance the works have ever since been most prudently and skil- 
 fully conducted. The account of the expenditure and receipts from 
 the commencement of the works until June, 1801, stood as follows i 
 
 Dr. 
 
 To labour - - cflGTS 16 7 
 Materials - - - 296 18 6 
 Incidentals - - - 92 17 2 
 Commission to direct- 
 ors . - - - 206 17 3 
 
 ^2275 9 6 
 
 Cr. 
 
 By native gold raised, 599 oz. 
 
 7dwt. 8gr. - .£2259 9 11 
 By value of houses, 
 
 sheds, implements, 
 
 &c 
 
 Since that period, gold has not been found in sufficient quantities to 
 compensate for the labour of the search ; and money has been re- 
 ceived from government to prosecute the works. 
 
 Croaghan is a very extensive mountain, and somewhat more than 
 2000 feet high. Near its summit there is a bog, the source of three 
 streams, which unite during their course down the mountain. The 
 
259 
 
 In the scenery of this distriet there is nothing pe- 
 culiarly interesting, until a view opens of Castle- 
 Townsend-haven, an inlet of the sea, about a mile in 
 breadth, which extends a considerable distance up 
 
 first gold was found in a ford on the united streams, near the base 
 of the mountain ; and here the commissioners began their search, by 
 re-washing the sand and gravel which had been turned up by the 
 peasantry. The machinery used for that purpose was of the most 
 approved and ingenious kind ; of course, much gold was found that 
 had before escaped notice. That the gold must have been washed 
 down the mountain was obvious, both from its external appearance, 
 and from the circumstance of its being found in the largest quanti- 
 ties in those places where the course of the stream was obstructed 
 ,by ledges of rock; the works, therefore, were continued upwards; 
 but, as they ascended, the gold became more rare, and the mass of 
 earth under which it lay proved so deep, that the expense of remo- 
 ving it considerably exceeded the gains. Trials were, therefore, 
 made in other places, by cutting transverse trenches, and sinking 
 pits down to the surface of the rock ; and wherever these trials were 
 made, whether above the ford or below it, whether on the river 
 side of the mountain or on the opposite one, gold was discovered, 
 but in such minute quantities as neither to pay for the search, nor 
 give any encouragement to prosecute the works at one place in pre- 
 ference to another. Even at the distance of many miles from the 
 mountain, in the river Aughrim, which receives the auriferous 
 stream, small particles of gold were discovered ; and I was lately in- 
 formed by Captain Mills, that it had been found near the head of 
 the river Liffey, sixteen miles distant from Croaghan, in another di- 
 rection, under circumstances of a very extraordinary nature. A gen- 
 tleman had caught a trout in that river ; its belly was much swelled, 
 and evidently by some hard substance ; the fish was opened, and 
 the 'lump proved to be a small piece of native gold, which the ani- 
 mal must have swallowed when raised from the bottom by some eddy 
 during a flood. 
 
 With the gold there has also been found on Croaghan mountaiii 
 magnetic iron ore, iron ochre, brown and red iron stone, specular 
 
260 
 
 the country. It resembles in appearance a large ri- 
 ver issuing from the hills, and winding through a 
 country richly wooded, until it mingles its waters 
 with those of the Atlantic, amidst a cluster of rocky 
 
 iron ore, martial and arsenical pyrites, quartz containing chlorite, 
 wolfram, grey ore of manganese ; and, more valuable than all, frag- 
 ments of crystallized tinstone. That the latter substance would, 
 sooner or later, be discovered in the county of Wicklow, Captain 
 Mills had long before expressed his firm conviction, in consequence 
 of the very striking similarity of many parts of that county to Corn^ 
 wall. 
 
 After a mature consideration of the various circumstances, it was 
 recommended by the commissioners, in their report to government 
 on the state of the works, to have a level driven through the very 
 lieart of the mountain. This level is now carrying on, in the most 
 judicious manner, under the skilful directions of Messrs. Mills and 
 Weaver, and it is to be hoped that it will lead to some valuable disco- 
 veries. As no more than two or three men can work at a time, and 
 parts of the rock are (exceedingly hard, the progress of it is neces- 
 sarily very slow. The cost, in a national point of view, is trifling ; 
 and although it should not lead to any discovery of gold, yet, as the 
 mountain abounds with a variety of valuable minerals, it is extremely 
 probable that the level may prove useful to other mines that may be 
 worked hereafter ; in which case, the tolls that might justly be le- 
 vied for the right of passage through it, would more than repay for 
 the original cost, A minute and interesting account of this moun- 
 tain, of the first discovery of the gold, and of the proceedings of the 
 commissioners, together with a discussion of the probability of find- 
 ing additional sources of the precious metals, may be seen in the 
 Philosophical Transactions, and in those of the Dublin Society. 
 
 Since the above was written, the commissioners received orders 
 from government to abandon the works. Thousands of the pea- 
 santry, eager to try their fortunes, immediately flocked to the place. 
 They dug in various directions with indefatigable diligence ; and, 
 having observed the method practised by the regular workmen, they 
 washed the earth in the same manner, and with considerable dexte- 
 
 1 
 
261 
 
 islands. Tlie town and castle from which the haven 
 takes its name, are situated amongst the woods on 
 the western bank, where the water is so very deep, 
 that the ships which frequent the place ride at an- 
 chor close to the shore, with their masts and bow- 
 sprits nearly in contact with the branches of the 
 trees. The transparency of the water is very remark- 
 able ; at the depth of several fathoms we could dis- 
 tinctly perceive the pebbles which lay at the bottom : 
 in many of the other inlets of this rocky coast the 
 water, though quite salt, is not less clear than it is at 
 Castle-Townsend. 
 
 Skibbereen is a thriving town, situated on a na- 
 vigable river which flows into Baltimore bay. The 
 great contrast between the wretched cabins of the 
 old part of the town and the substantial habitations 
 which have been lately built, is a striking proof of 
 the benefits which the place has derived from com- 
 merce. The trade chiefly consists in the exportation 
 
 rity. ITie great multitude toiled in vain ; but a few were repaid 
 very amply for their laborious search ; and the golden prize, thus 
 obtained, induced others to persevere : each day brought additional 
 crowds. The commissioners, aware of the consequence of an aban- 
 donment, had previously remonstrated against it, but their opinion 
 was disregarded. At last, however, after several weeks of general 
 idleness throughout the neighbouring districts, it was found expe- 
 dient to resume the possession, and to station a military guard to 
 keep off the people, and oblige them to return to their accustomed 
 habits of regular industry. 
 
262 
 
 of grain, butter, and sklted fish ; and in the importa- 
 tion of iron, deals, timber, salt, groceries, &c. This 
 place called to our recollection the old story of an 
 Irish servant, who, being asked, on arriving in Lon- 
 don, what he thought of that city, replied, that Zow- 
 don appeared a mighty good sort of a place, but was 
 nothing at all to Skibbereen ; and, indeed, Skibbereen 
 in some respects stands unparalleled ; for we found 
 whole streets in it formed of cabins without chim- 
 neys, situated at the bottom of a deep trench or 
 ditch : yet the inhabitants of these hovels were heal- 
 thy and cheerful ; and, in the evening, we saw nu- 
 merous groups of girls singing and dancing with un- 
 common vivacity and regularity,* amidst the clouds 
 of smoke which issue from the doors. 
 
 Irish is so generally spoken in this part of the 
 country, that, at Skibbereen, we found it expedient 
 to learn a few phrases in that language, for the pur- 
 pose of inquiring the way, and asking the names of 
 places which we passed. 
 
 To the south of Skibbereen the country is diversi- 
 fied by numerous hills, which are devoted to pastu- 
 rage, and remain nearly in a state of nature, covered 
 with rocks and heath ; the lesser valleys also, deemed 
 unfit for tillage, are left in the same neglected con- 
 
 * It is a notorious fact, that many of the Irish peasants take les- 
 sons in dancing from4tinerant teachers. 
 
263 
 
 dition* After having passed for some miles through 
 these wild valleys, where little appeared to interest 
 the attention, we were most agreeably surprised by 
 the sudden view of an extensive basin of water sur- 
 rounded by lofty hills. Its form was nearly circular, 
 and in the centre stood an island, where the ruins of 
 an old castle, over-run with ivy, towered above a pile 
 of rocks. 
 
 Desirous of examining it more closely, we hasten- 
 ed towards some men who were hauling a boat on 
 the beach, and were endeavouring to prevail on them 
 to launch it once more, when an elderly gentleman 
 accosted us, and told us the boat belonged to him ; 
 he added, at the same time, that it was much at our 
 service, and that, if we were willing to wait until he 
 went as far as his house, he would himself accompany 
 us. We gladly accepted his oiFer, and, after a few 
 minutes, embarked together. This curious piece of 
 water, called Lough Ine, communicates with the 
 ocean by a narrow rocky channel, concealed between 
 the hills, through which the tide flows. It abounds 
 with every sort of fish that is found on the coast, and 
 in particular with oysters of an excellent kind, which 
 we could distinctly perceive in the sand near the 
 island, at the depth of three fathoms. Here the boat 
 was moored, the dredge prepared, and, in a few mi- 
 nutes, an abundance of these rare oysters procured. 
 Our friendly guide had returned from his house, at- 
 
264 
 
 tended by a boy carrying a basket ; and we now dis. 
 covered that if contained every necessary to afford us 
 an agreeable repast. Copious libations were poured 
 from bottles which had evidently been filled in France, 
 and the wine proved to be nothing less than Burgundy 
 of a most delicious flavour.* 
 
 Our host informed us that the castle was once the 
 residence of his ancestors, who were lords of the sur- 
 rounding country j and he gave an admirable de- 
 scription of the former beauty of the lough, when the 
 hills by which it was environed were clothed to the 
 summit with lofty trees. Into the history of the vi- 
 cissitudes of a family once so wealthy and powerful, 
 it was no time to inqi^ire ; we could only lament that 
 one, in whom the hospitable spirit of the old Irish 
 chieftain shone forth so conspicuously, should have 
 limits assigned to its most ample exercise. On re- 
 gaining the main shore, for the first time, he begged 
 to know our names j and, though unacquainted with 
 any one of them, gave us a warm invitation to his 
 house ; but, being under the necessity of declining 
 further favours, we bade him farewell, with cordial 
 thanks for his hospitality and politeness.t 
 
 * In times of peace, French wine is common on the western coast 
 of Ireland. 
 
 f A reverend gentleman was pleased to say, that, in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Skibbereen, he fears this story should be laughed at as 
 a quiz ; — that mne was not, to his own knowledge, the usual beve- 
 
265 
 
 Soon after leaving Lough Ine, we came within 
 sight of the bay of Baltimore, upon whose border the 
 road runs for some miles before it reaches the town. 
 The bay is very beautiful, studded with islands of va- 
 rious size, and bounded by a range of lofty hills, 
 which terminate on the coast in a bold promontory. 
 Beyond it appear other promontories still more lofty, 
 amongst which is seen, in the distance, Mizen-head, 
 the Notium of Ptolemy, the most southern point of 
 land in Ireland ;* woods alone are w^an ting to render 
 this one of the richest views imaginable j not a tree 
 is now to be seen along the shores, although formerly 
 they were covered with a continued forest. 
 
 Fish is so plentiful at Baltimore, that, after the 
 neighbouring inland district has been quite glutted, 
 and after immense quantities have been dried and 
 salted, in which business every person that can be 
 procured is kept constantly employed during the 
 
 rage of this old gentleman ; — that smuggling has been long suppress- 
 ed ; and, when otherwise, Burgundy was not among the wines to 
 be obtained in the country. All this serves to confirm the hospita- 
 lity of our host. Are there no shipwrecks on this rocky and dan- 
 gerous coast ? 
 
 The same gentleman observed farther, that intelligent and re- 
 spectable travellers should be cautious of relating even truths when 
 improbable. To my understanding, however, it appears that facts, 
 attested by credible witnesses, are the foundation of all knowledge, 
 moral and physical, and should not unnecessarily be withheld. 
 
 * Cape Clear lies still farther to the south ; but it is a separate 
 island. 
 
266 
 
 proper season, large heaps are commonly left, which 
 are used in manuring the ground. On comparing the 
 plenty which prevails on this coast, with the scarcity 
 of animal food elsewhere, one cannot refrain from 
 speculative theories on the great advantage which 
 would arise from transporting people hither, from the 
 inland pasture countries, to assist in curing the fish, 
 and also from the establishment of manufactures, in 
 such an abundant country. But whilst the subdivi- 
 sion of land, and the encouragement of new comers, 
 depend on private, not public interests, advantages 
 of this nature must be left to find their own level ; 
 and thousands of human beings must still be doomed 
 to suffer comparative want in one district, whilst food 
 more than sufficient to feed ten times their number 
 is left to putrefy on the ground in another. 
 
 The vessels used here for fishing, called hookers^ 
 appear to be peculiar to this coast: the principal 
 place for building them is Kinsale : they are rigged 
 with a single mast, placed very forward, which carries 
 a large mainsail, with peak and boom ; they have also 
 a small foresail ; but, though provided with a bow- 
 sprit, it is seldom used : they sail with uncommon 
 velocity ; go very near the wind ; may be navigated 
 by a few hands, and are remarkable for their buoy- 
 ancy ; so -that those of a large size, although built 
 without decks, are considered as perfectly safe, and 
 are frequently taken far out to sea. It is here asserted 
 
267 
 
 that they are capable of outsailing all other small 
 craft; but a similar opinion is maintained on other 
 coasts, in favour of boats of a very different descrip- 
 tion. That the hooker, however, is a vessel of extra- 
 ordinary excellence, there can be no doubt ; and I 
 have frequently heard it highly spoken of by naval 
 officers. 
 
 At Baltimore we embarked for Innisharkin-island, 
 the chief object of curiosity on which is a ruined ab- 
 bey. From the numerous remains of monasteries, 
 situated on islands along this coast, and not only on 
 such as were distinguished for the fertility of their 
 soil, but even on barren rocks, (as those for instance 
 called the Skeligs, near Bolus-head, in Kerry,) it ap- 
 pears that the Irish monks had a strong partiality for 
 the retirement of such places. The abbey of Innis- 
 harkin. was not extensive ; but its remains display 
 more taste than is usually observable in similar edi- 
 fices in Ireland. It is regarded as a spot of peculiar 
 sanctity, by the people of the neighbouring district, 
 and the cemetery is still used. 
 
 We next proceeded to Cape Clear-island, which is 
 about three miles long and two broad, and contains 
 fifteen hundred inhabitants. The people consider 
 themselves a superior race to those of the main land, 
 and have such an extraordinary predilection for their 
 Utile community, that he who ventures to choose a 
 wife elsewhere, is immediately sent to Covent/i/y and 
 
268 
 
 obliged ultimately to quit the island. In the burial- 
 ground of a ruined chapel, in the centre of the island, 
 many bones of gigantic size were shewn to us, and 
 the natives still boast of uncommon strength of body ; 
 but, whatever their corporeal powers may be, their 
 stature does not at present exceed that of the inha- 
 bitants of the neighbouring shores. The soil is far 
 from being fertile, and feeble exertions are made to 
 supply, by industry, the deficiencies of nature. Po- 
 tatoes, oats, and barley, are the chief produce ; sea 
 wrack and sand the common manure. When the 
 weed can be procured in sufficient quantities, at the 
 proper season, it is dug into the earth ; but, for the 
 most part, it is only strewed over the surface after 
 the seed is committed to the ground. The abun- 
 dance of fish makes the people negligent of agricul- 
 ture, and they are rendered yet more indolent by the 
 immoderate use of spirituous liquors, which are smug- 
 gled in large quantities into the island. We were told 
 that there was not a house on it, which was not plen- 
 tifully supplied with this deleterious beverage. No 
 sooner was it known that we had not come amongst 
 them with any bad intention, than the people of the 
 houses which we entered, immediately brought forth 
 bottles of spirits ; and were but ill pleased that we 
 went away without drinking a dram. 
 
 Coarse woollen cloth is manufactured here for do- 
 mestic use, which, instead of being thickened by a 
 
269 
 
 mill, is placed on hurdles in a stream or pool of wa- 
 ter, and trampled under foot by females. The em- 
 ployment generally falls on the young and active, 
 who prepare for the task b} tucking up their petti- 
 coats very high ; and, far from betraying any symp- 
 toms of bashfulness, at their unusual nakedness, they 
 rather seem pleased at having an opportunity of dis- 
 playing their nimbleness and dexterity : it is a merry 
 occupation, indeed, which wears more the appearance 
 of pastime than labour.* 
 
 Cape Clear-island is pleasingly varied with hill and 
 valley, particularly on the southern side, where it 
 presents to the Atlantic a steep inaccessible cHff. 
 The coast, in general, is bold and rock-bound ; but 
 there are several commodious landing-places in the 
 little bays and inlets with which it is indented. The 
 rock consists of coarse argillaceous schistus, nearly 
 resembling that of the main shore ; but the strata are 
 more distinct, and form a larger angle with the plane 
 of the horizon : In some places their position is nearly 
 vertical. The only mineral production on the island, 
 of apparent rarity in this district, is a fine grained 
 siliceous sand-stone, applicable to the nicest purposes 
 of architecture : the arches and window frames of the 
 
 * In the north of Ireland, it is customary for girls to wash thread 
 in a similar manner, by dancing upon it in tubs of water ; and it is 
 not less a scene of merriment. 
 
270 
 
 abbey of Innisharkin, and many of its ornaments, are 
 formed of this stone. 
 
 At the south-western point of the island, on a lofty 
 mass of rock which overhangs the sea, and can only 
 be approached by a very narrow path, the remains 
 are to be seen of a large castle. As its position is re- 
 mote from all the landing-places, one would imagine 
 it was rather erected for the purpose of ensuring 
 a secure retreat to a garrison, than defending the 
 shores. The view, looking down from the battle- 
 ments which guard the brink of the precipice upon 
 the waves below, is truly awful. Though the air was 
 remarkably still, and the sea to appearance calm, yet 
 the sudden opposition given by the rocks to the swell 
 which never forsakes the waters of the Atlantic, and 
 to the current of the tide, occasioned breakers of im- 
 mense height, whose roar resounded along the shores : 
 what then must be the terrific grandeur of the scene, 
 when the mighty billows are impelled against this cliff 
 by all the fury of the storm ! 
 
 The elevated grounds of the Cape command a dis- 
 tinct prospect of the southern coast of Ireland, for 
 upwards of fifty miles, from Mizen-head, at the 
 mouth of Dunmanus-bay, to the Old Head of Kin- 
 sale. The shore is every where extremely bold, 
 though the great height of the mountains, to the 
 west of the Cape, gives an appearance of compara- 
 tive tameness to the coast in an opposite direction. 
 
271 
 
 Dunmanus-bay, Bantry-bay, Kenmare-river, and the 
 great estuaries of this coast, are all bounded by chains 
 of mountains, which run nearly parallel to each other 
 in a south-west direction, and terminate in lofty capes. 
 Mizen-head, the first of these which meets the eye of 
 the spectator at Cape Clear, obstructs, owing to its 
 great elevation, the prospect of the more distant 
 points J but many of the mountains of Kerry are 
 plainly observable above it. 
 
 It was our intention to cross from Cape Clear to 
 Crook-haven, and enter on the opposite western shore, 
 which terminates in the promontory, called Mizen- 
 head. The boatmen, desirous of avoiding the labour 
 of the oar, had persuaded us to wait in expectation 
 of a breeze, till the latest moment that it was possible 
 to remain on the island, without risking the danger 
 of being out during the night, at which time it is dif- 
 ficult to find the entrance of the port. Their stay, 
 however, was of no avail ; a perfect stillness perva- 
 ded the heavens ; and when we committed ourselves 
 to the ocean, the sun had nearly terminated his 
 course : but whatever uneasiness arose from the tar- 
 dy progress of the rowers, was more than counter- 
 balanced by the glorious spectacle of the sun sinking 
 in the waves of the Atlantic ; and the extraordinary 
 beauty of the coast, whose promontories and moun- 
 tain tops, long after the luminary had disappeared 
 from our eyes, displayed the greatest variety of lively 
 
272 
 
 warm tints ; whilst their bases, suffused with sombre 
 gray, were scarcely distinguishable from the sea out 
 of which they a,rose. 
 
 Crooked or Crook-haven is a long inlet, which lies 
 in a direction almost parallel to that of the coast, be- 
 ing bounded on one side by mountains, and on the 
 other by a peninsula of low rocks which separates it 
 from the ocean. The anchorage is every where good, 
 and a fleet of the largest vessels could ride in it with 
 perfect ease : from its sheltered situation, it is deem- 
 ed one of the securest harbours on the coast, and is 
 a common place of resort, in bad weather, for home- 
 ward-bound West Indian ships. As we proceeded up 
 the haven, we were entertained by the sight of nu- 
 merous seals playing about the boat ;, one of which 
 rose above the water very close to us, with a salmon 
 of large size in his jaws. At the first effort he nearly 
 bit it through the middle, and then, making two or 
 three snaps, like a dog, devoured the whole almost 
 instantaneously : we distinctly heard the craunching 
 of the bones between his teeth : yet some naturalists 
 assert, that seals always eat their prey beneath the 
 water. The power of catching so swift a fish as the 
 salmon demonstrates their great dexterity in the 
 water, notwithstanding the apparent unwieldiness of 
 their form : the boatmen assured us no fish could 
 swim faster. These animals are found in great abun- 
 dance along the south-western coast of Ireland ; but. 
 
273 
 
 valuable as they are on account of their skins, and the 
 great quantity of oil which they yield, they are pur- 
 sued for profit less frequently than for pastime. To 
 attack them in their rocky caves is deemed a service 
 of danger, as they bite with great ferocity, and some- 
 times defend themselves obstinately. The people, we 
 were informed, prepare for the encounter by tying 
 small bags of charcoal round their legs and arms, un- 
 der an idea that, if the seal feels it crackle beneath 
 his teeth, he will relinquish his hold, mistaking the 
 noise for the crash of the bones, and the destruction 
 of his enemy : but, as I never heard of any person 
 who had absolutely made the experiment, I suspect 
 that this must be a vulgar prejudice : such an ima- 
 ginary defence, however, inspires confidence and cool- 
 ness in the attack, and the conquest then becomes 
 more easy. 
 
 At the head of Crook-haven stands a small village, 
 which contains a few fishermen's huts and a public- 
 house. Here we were preparing to stop for the night, 
 as there was no town within fifteen miles. Salt-fish, 
 potatoes, and whisky, the common fare of the coun- 
 try, the house afforded in abundance ; but it contain- 
 ed only one miserable bed, to which a great-coat and 
 the floor were far preferable. Many minutes, how- 
 ever, had not elapsed after our arrival, when the cler- 
 gyman of the parish, who had observed our boat pro- 
 ceeding up the haven, and had learned that it con- 
 
i274 
 
 tained strangers who were not likely to find comfort* 
 able accommodation in the village, came to invite us 
 to his house. We gladly accompanied him home, and 
 felt no small pleasure at the sudden transition, from 
 a miserable hut and the brawls of drunken fisher- 
 men, to a commodious habitation and an agreeable 
 and polished society. 
 
 The traveller who finds the inconveniences of his 
 journey lessened, or its pleasures heightened, by the. 
 attention of the inhabitants of the country through 
 which he passes, must have a cold heart not to feel 
 lively sentiments of gratitude for the kindness he re- 
 ceives. Far from depreciating qualities which do ho- 
 nour to human nature, by arguing with the casuist 
 that hospitality is the virtue of countries thinly inha- 
 bited, where it is practised more frequently for the 
 indulgence of the resident who finds himself cut oft* 
 from society, than for the benefit of the passing stran- 
 ger, the generous mind will attribute nobler motives 
 to the man who, banishing every shadow of suspicion 
 and distrust, freely opens his doors, and spreads his 
 hospitable board for those whom he has never seen 
 before, whom he expects not, perhaps, ever to meet 
 again. 
 
 The country to the west of Crook-haven is wild and 
 rocky, and there is nothing peculiarly interesting in 
 the scenery, until Dunmanus-bay opens to view : its 
 first appearance resembles that of a spacious lake 
 
275 
 
 surrounded with mountains : nor is the nature of the 
 {)lace fully disclosed, until, on approaching the shore, 
 the Atlantic ocean is discovered between the lofty 
 capes which guard the entrance of the bay. 
 
 Along the water's-edge, there are considerable 
 tracts of sloping ground under cultivation ; but the 
 quantity remaining waste, consisting chiefly of salt 
 marshes, is much greater, though seemingly capable 
 of being drained, and converted to profit, at a mode- 
 rate expense. The population is very thin, and, from 
 the number of ruined castles and churches along the 
 shores, probably much inferior to what it was for- 
 merly. 
 
 At the head of the bay lies an extensive vale, every 
 part of which affords delightful views towards the 
 sea ; and, on crossing the mountains which bound it 
 on the west, the eye has scarcely lost sight of Dun- 
 manus, when a sudden prospect of Bantry-bay bursts 
 upon it, which is still more spacious, and bordered 
 by mountains of greater elevation. The scenery of 
 each of the great estuaries of this coast is distin- 
 guished by so many noble features, that it would be 
 difficult to determine which is entitled to the pre- 
 eminence. Bantry-bay, however, possesses one ad- 
 vantage over the others, in being adorned with a 
 considerable extent of wood along the upper parts of 
 its shores 5 which, though not of ancient growth, de- 
 
276 
 
 rives importance from being situated on the slope of 
 the mountains. 
 
 The town of Bantry stands on the eastern shore, at 
 the upper part of the bay j its extent is inconsider- 
 able, and the houses in general are of mean appear- 
 ance. None but very small vessels can approach it ; 
 and the only advantage it seems to enjoy from its vi- 
 cinity to the water, is an abundant supply of fish, — 
 one which it possesses in common with every other 
 place on the coast. 
 
 The seat of Lord Bantry, at the distance of some- 
 what less than a mile from the town, is beautifully 
 situated in a rich park which reaches down to the 
 water's edge. The bay in front of it is about six 
 English miles across ; and studded with islands, be- 
 yond which are seen the woods of Glengariff and a 
 long chain of lofty mountains. Whiddy, the largest 
 of the islands, contains near a thousand acres, and is 
 occupied by his lordship's farms. The variety of the 
 soil is very remarkable : it affords bog, rocks, sand, 
 and stiff clay ; whilst other parts under cultivation, 
 of a loamy nature, are distinguished for their fertili- 
 ty. There are two lakes on this island ; one. of which 
 yields fresh and the other salt water, although they 
 are both nearly on the same level, and only separated 
 by a very narrow interval. 
 
 The shores of the bay are very rocky, and the soil 
 in general meagre. The prevailing rock is argillace- 
 
' 277 
 
 ous schistus ; but a great variety of stones was obser- 
 vable along the beach, amongst which were many 
 large boulders of granite. The summits of the moun- 
 tains are formed of a siliceous rock, precisely similar 
 to that in the vicinity of KiUarney : limestone is 
 found at the head of the bay, and also marie ; but 
 the latter is not in much esteem, probably from the 
 over great proportion of argillaceous earth. The best 
 manure is a certain species of sand, formed of white 
 coralline finely comminuted, which is sought for with 
 still greater avidity, and continues much longer effi- 
 cacious in the ground, than that at Clonikelty : it is 
 procured by means of dredges, from a bank which 
 has hitherto afforded an inexhaustible supply. 
 
 Great pains have been taken, since the visit of the 
 French fleet in the year 1 796, to fortify Bantry-bay, 
 and numerous batteries have been erected both on 
 the shores and on the islands : but the utility of these 
 works is very doubtful, as ships may sail up without 
 passing near them ; and, even if it were possible 
 to secure the entrance to Bantry, other estuaries re- 
 main open, still more inviting to an enemy. It is 
 somewhat remarkable, that, though the French made 
 choice of Bantry for their rendezvous, it was one of 
 the very worst places, for a descent, on the whole 
 coast of Ireland, as the shores, in almost every part, 
 are rock-bound \ and, in stormy weather, covered 
 wdth a surf which forbMs the approach of boats, ex- 
 
278 
 
 cepting in a few small coves and creeks, where a 
 large force could not be landed without much delay. 
 The southern coast can never be effectually protect- 
 ed by batteries : on its ships and armies the nation 
 must rely for defence against invasion. 
 
 After having spent some days at Lord Bantry's^ 
 under whose polite guidance we received the high- 
 est gratification from the beauty and variety of the 
 scenery in different excursions along the shores, we 
 proceeded in his lordship's barge for about ten miles 
 down the bay, and landed at the opposite side, at a 
 place called Reen, where we were hospitably receiv- 
 ed by a clergyman. The wildness of the place, and 
 the rude state of the inhabitants, may be exemplified 
 by the circumstance of the plough having remained 
 absolutely unknown there until it was introduced by 
 this reverend gentleman. Immense crowds immedi- 
 ately flocked down from the neighbouring mountains 
 to examine the novel instrument-; and its operations 
 were beheld with wonder. To those of his parishion- 
 ers who were inclined to employ it in the cultivation 
 of their ground, the proprietor readily offered to 
 lend it, and numerous applications were consequent- 
 ly made. Shortly, however, the plough ceased to be 
 in request ; even the sight of it appeared to be cau- 
 tiously shunned. Th^t an instrument productive of 
 such an obvious and immediate slaving of labour 
 should be thus discarded, seemed somewhat extraor- 
 
279 
 
 dinary : but to unravel the mystery was not difficult. 
 The people had been reminded that their forefathers 
 had dug the ground ; that the plough was an inno- 
 vation. An unanimous resolution was instantly made 
 to follow in the steps of their ancestors : every argu- 
 ment to the contrary proved ineffectual ; and when 
 -we. visited Reen, the ground still continued to be 
 cultivated with the spade. * 
 
 We had been led to expect the sight of a noble 
 
 * I gave this account from the information of the worthy resi- 
 dent rector of the parish, by whom we were most hospitably and 
 ki;idly received on our journey. The author of the Cork Survey, 
 ,/liowever, (page 289,) takes upon him, in very unequivocal language, 
 to contradict it altogether; and on the strength of the very same 
 authority which I relied upon for my information. To reconcile this 
 contrariety of evidence, Mr Townsend, in an explanatory letter, sup- 
 poses that our worthy host might have amplified a little, by way of 
 amusing strangers. 
 
 Mr Townsend says, " The resident rector of the parish assures me, 
 that the use of this implement is increasing, and that there are now 
 eight ploughs, where, twelve or fifteen years ago, there were but 
 three." The Cork Survey was published in 1810; and twelve or fif- 
 teen years before that period, that is, about the year 1795 or 1798, 
 there were only three ploughs. We visited Reen in the year 1800, 
 and the rector had been established there, I believe, for some years 
 preceding. Now the rector certainly had more than one plough ; and 
 if the number in his possession, whether tvro or three, be subtracted 
 from the least number, which Mr Townsend admits, viz. three, the 
 remainder will be found to approximate very nearly, if not accurate- 
 ly, with the statement I have given. 
 
 Heaven forbid that the reign of ignorance and barbarity should 
 be everlasting ! It is most gratifying to hear of the change which a 
 iew years have occasioned, even in this obscure district. 
 
280 
 
 water-fall, in the vicinity of Reen, called Adragole, 
 which Dr Smith has described as the most lofty in 
 Ireland : but, on approaching the spot, we found 
 it quite dry ; and it was only from the drooping 
 weeds, and discoloration of the rocks, that the course 
 of the water could be traced. In winter, it must be 
 a very grand object, as the height of the fall is be- 
 tween three and four hundred feet, and an immense 
 body of water tumbles down the cliff. We were in- 
 formed, that, during that season, and after heavy rains, 
 four other falls are distinguishable at the same time, 
 each of which is nearly as high as that of Adragole : 
 the latter derives its chief supply from a large lake 
 on Hungry-hill. 
 
 From Reen we proceeded by land to Beare-haven, 
 crossing in our route the summit of Hungry-hill, or 
 mountain, as it should rather be called, the most ele- 
 vated land in this part of the country. It abounds 
 with lakes, one of which, very near its summit, af- 
 fords large quantities of trout ; whilst others, situated 
 lower down the hill, yield none : this diflerence is 
 probably rather to be ascribed to accident, than to 
 any material difference in the qualities of the water. 
 
 The prospect from the summit of Hungry-hill is 
 extremely extensive. Every creek and inlet on Ban- 
 try-bay appears as conspicuous as on a map; and 
 beyond the mountains, which bound it on the east, 
 are seen Cape Clear, and a long extent of the south- 
 
281 
 
 ern coast : in the opposite direction Kenmare-river 
 opens to view, and the vast mountains of Kerry. 
 
 The country between Hungry-hill and the town of 
 Beare-haven was much better cultivated than that to- 
 wards the head of the bay, and the population appear- 
 ed more numerous. Agriculture has been much pro* 
 moted, throughout this country, by the Cork mer- 
 chants ; who have built store-houses in suitable posi- 
 tions along the coast, where clerks are stationed to 
 purchase corn, whenever the farmers of the adjacent 
 districts find it convenient to bring it for sale ; and 
 in general they prefer disposing of their grain in this 
 manner, to the labour and uncertainty of cariying it 
 to a distant market. The low grounds are devoted 
 to tillage ; and on the hills are fed numerous herds of 
 cows, from whose produce butter of the best quality 
 is made, which is all sent to Cork. It is in this part 
 of the country that the small breed of cattle is preser- 
 ved, of which mention has already been made. The 
 bulls are extremely fierce : in two or three instances 
 we found whole villages in arms, to drive them back 
 to the hills, which they had left in order to attack 
 their rivals at the opposite side of the valley : they 
 challenge each other with dreadful bellowings ; and 
 when they meet, the conflict is obstinate and some- 
 times fatal. 
 
 Beare-haven was formerly defended by a strong 
 castle, and was a place of no small importance in the 
 
282 
 
 fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, when the Irish chief- 
 tains maintained a frequent intercourse with Spain. 
 The town stands in a convenient and pleasing posi- 
 tion, on the banks of a small inlet of the sea ; but the 
 houses are poor, and few in number. The only ob- 
 jects of peculiarity here seemed to be the tombs in 
 the church-yard, which were of a pyramidal form. 
 The church was in ruins, and the few families of the 
 established religion met at the house of the clergy- 
 man : the case was the same at Reen. 
 
 At Beare-haven we again embarked on the sea, 
 with an intention of proceeding to Dursey-island, at 
 the extremity of the long peninsula which separates 
 Bantry-bay from Kenmare-river. The aspect of the 
 coast below this place was bleak and desolate ; it 
 bore no trace of cultivation ; and the only human 
 beings we saw for many miles, w^ere a few aged indi- 
 viduals who sat fishing on the rocks. Immense flocks 
 of sea fowl hovered over the waves in quest of prey ; 
 and, as the boat passed under the shore, thousands 
 more of various kinds, that lay concealed in the hol- 
 lows of the cliffs, alarmed at our approach, took wing, 
 and flitted around us with loud screams of the most 
 discordant nature imaginable. These savage sounds, 
 combined with the hoarse roar of the billows and 
 the gloomy aspect of the tall impending piles of 
 black rocks, gave something of horror to the scene, 
 which was not relieved by the boundless prospect of 
 
283 
 
 the vast Atlantic, or by the consideration that we 
 had committed ourselves to its waves in a frail and 
 leaky boat. More than six hours had elapsed from 
 the time of our departure from Beare-haven ; when, 
 perceiving that our rowers were exhausted with fa- 
 tigue, that the flood tide opposed their progress, and 
 that Crow-head, which terminates the peninsula, still 
 lay at a great distance, we intimated our desire to be 
 put on shore at a place where the cliff appeared ac- 
 cessible : but the men requested us to confide a little 
 longer in their exertions, assuring us that, if the tide 
 had risen to a certain height, the voyage would soon 
 be over. On asseverations which had so often proved 
 fallacious much reliance was not to be placed : in this 
 instance, however, we were agreeably surprised by 
 perceiving the boat almost immediately directed to- 
 wards a break or chasm in the cliff, which afforded, 
 as we were informed, a short passage into Dursey- 
 sound. It was so narrow as barely to admit the boat ; 
 and on each side was guarded by walls of rock of 
 vast height, which, approaching at the top, obscured 
 the light of heaven, and cast an awful gloom over the 
 water below. On entering it, the ocean was soon 
 lost to our view ; but the roaring of the waves conti- 
 nued to resound through the vaults of the passage, 
 and, increasing as we advanced, intimated that seas 
 still more agitated than those which we had left lay 
 - beyond it : but it was merely the effect of the echoes, 
 
284 
 
 for, in a few minutes, we found ourselves in a calm 
 sheltered basin, whose shores, well cultivated, and 
 studded with houses, appeared highly grateful to an 
 eye wearied by the long-continued view of barren 
 rocks and immeasurable expanse of ocean. This ba- 
 sin is situated between Crow-head and Dursey-island, 
 
 Dursey-island is about three miles long, and two 
 wide. It contains several villages, and in some parts 
 is tolerably well cultivated. The inhabitants, like 
 most others on this coast, are well provided with food 
 and raiment, and seem to be a very contented happy 
 tace of people. One would wish, however, that the 
 pursuits of honest industry were more attended to 
 than smuggling and shipwrecks, the principal sources 
 of their wealth at present. The numberless insula- 
 ted rocks on this coast are productive of the utmost 
 danger to vessels which are so unfortunate as to be 
 drifted towards the land during the night : at the dis- 
 tance of miles from the main shore we perceived se- 
 veral, which did not appear larger than the hull of a 
 small vessel. 
 
 The most curious of the rocks within sight of Dur* 
 sey are those called the Skeligs, which were once the 
 seat of several monasteries and chapels, whose re- 
 mains are still visible. They are quite barren, but 
 abound with springs of good water. It is said that 
 they consist entirely of marble ; a remarkable cir- 
 cumstance, if true, as the other islands are compo- 
 
285 
 
 sed of argillaceous and siliceous rocks, and no calca- 
 reous matter is found on the opposite coast much 
 nearer than the lake of Killarney. The Gannet, or 
 Solan goose, breeds on these rocks, and is never seen, 
 if current report is to be believed, on any other part 
 of the coast of Ireland. 
 
 Dursey island affords specular iron ore, of which 
 we found many beautiful specimens adhering to 
 quartz, in flat hexaedral crystals : searches were for- 
 merly made for the ore, in different parts of the 
 island, by sinking deep pits, which still remain ; but 
 of the quantity that was procured we could learn 
 nothing. 
 
 At this place we were met by O'Sullivan M'Finan 
 Duff, who conducted us in a boat to his house, which 
 is agreeably situated at the head of an inlet, about 
 fifteen miles from the mouth of Kenmare-river. This 
 gentleman is regarded as the chief of the O'Sullivans 
 in this district, and, as a mark of respect, is simply 
 addressed by his surname. The O'SuUivan-TWor^,* or 
 head of the eldest branch of the family, according to 
 their genealogy lately printed in London, is an Eng- 
 lish baronet : the O* was dropped some time before 
 the family settled in England. 
 
 Of the Ardea branch of this family some particulars 
 
 * More signifies great^ and was a title anciently attached to the 
 head of the sept. 
 
286 
 
 were communicated to me by Mr Beltz, of the He- 
 rald's college, of a nature so extraordinary, that 1 
 shall make no apology for inserting them in this place. 
 
 In the twelfth year of the reign of Queen Eliza- 
 beth, Sir Owen O'Sullivan, in order to establish a 
 substantial title to the countries he then held, surren- 
 dered them to the crown, and received a formal grant 
 thereof by patent. This measure gave rise to a long 
 suit at law between Sir Owen and his nephew Donel 
 M*Donel O'Sullivan ; the latter of whom endeavour^ 
 ed to prove that his uncle had usurped the posses- 
 sion at the death of his (Donel's) father. Sir Owen, 
 on the contrary, pleaded that the possession of the 
 estates had fallen to him by the laws of Tanistry,* 
 and had been afterwards irrevocably established by 
 the letters patent. 
 
 The suit terminated in a commission being issued 
 
 * " Tanistry, among the Irish, was an ancient law of succession, 
 whether to regal power, or to any princely dignity to which landed 
 property was annexed, whereby, according to its primitive nature 
 and institution, the eldest male among the near kinsmen of the last 
 ruling prince, (legally succeeding) and of the same name and stock, 
 was constitutionally to succeed him, by the right of seniority, unless 
 some natural or accidental infirmity had rendered him incapable of 
 governing. Tanaiste, or Taniste, was the distinguishing appellation, 
 or title, of the senior and presumptive successor in every princely 
 family." — Vallancey. A law more calculated to produce family 
 dissensions, and public disturbance, could not well have been devi- 
 sed ; as it was possible that cousins might lay claim to the succes- 
 sion, between whom no actual difference of age existed, or at least 
 was allowed to exist. 
 
287 
 
 under the great seal, dated at Dublin the 18th July, 
 in the thirty-fifth of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, di- 
 recting Sir Thomas Norreys, vice-president of Mun- 
 ster, and others, to partition and plot out, by certain 
 limits and boundaries, the territories, hereditaments, 
 castles, &c., of Beare, Bantry, Ardea, and others, be- 
 longing to the O'Sullivans ; which partition was ef- 
 fected by an instrument dated at Mallow 15th Janu- 
 ary, 1593. The castle and dependencies of Beare 
 were allotted to Donel ; and Bantry, &c., to Sir 
 Owen ; saving only to Sir Philip O'Sullivan, younger 
 brother to Sir Owen, the castle of Ardea and its de- 
 pendencies. Attempts, however, were made, a few 
 years afterwards, to wrest the castle of Ardea from 
 the lawful possessor, pursuant to the old custom of 
 tanistry ; whereupon an appeal was made to the lord* 
 deputy of Ireland ; and, upon the petition of the in- 
 jured party, a copy was granted of the above-men- 
 tioned instrument of partition. Sir Philip's heir was 
 secured in his rights ; and the family continued to 
 maintain possession of the castle, until it was forfeited 
 during the civil wars. 
 
 In the year 1 802, Mr Beltz, having had occasion 
 to visit the south of Ireland, stopped at the house of 
 O'Sullivan M*Finan Duff; where, inquiring, through 
 curiosity, if any of the Ardea branch of that family 
 remained in existence, he was informed that a cot- 
 tager, in very humble circumstances, lived in the 
 
neighbouring mountains, who was reputed to be the 
 lineal descendant of Sir Philip. Desirous of an inter- 
 view with him, a message was sent to that effect : the 
 ruins of Ardea castle, on the banks of Kenmare ri- 
 ver, were fixed upon as the place of rendezvous ; and, 
 pursuant to appointment, the man, accompanied by 
 his whole family, appeared there on the allotted day. 
 Aware, in some measure, of the object of the inter- 
 view, he had brought in his hand a bundle of parch- 
 ments and papers, which he opened and spread on 
 the grass. They were all in a mouldering state, and 
 nearly obhterated by the damp and smoke of his ca- 
 bin. Of their purport he knew nothing : no person, 
 he said, to whom he had ever showed them, not even 
 the priest of the parish himself, had been able to read 
 them ; but, as they had been handed down from fa- 
 ther to son, for many generations, he had preserved 
 them with a scrupulous care to the best of his ability. 
 Mr Beltz, prior to his examination of these wri- 
 tings, wished to assure himself of the identity of the 
 person who brought them : he therefore put nume- 
 rous questions to him, each of which was answered 
 with such precision, that no doubt could remain of 
 the man being the actual lineal descendant of Sir 
 PhiHp O'SulHvan. It appeared that he was the seventh 
 in descent from Sir Philip,* which, allowing thirty 
 
 • It is probable that the Christian names of the family contribu- 
 
289 
 
 years for each generation, made up a period of two 
 hundred and ten years ; nearly agreeing with the 
 date of the first settlement of the family at Ardea. 
 Mr Beltz then took up one of the parchments, and, 
 to his surprise, found that it was the actual copy of 
 the deed of partition which had been granted to Sir 
 Philip's heirs, upon petition to the lord-deputy of 
 Ireland, in the year 1613. He next discovered the 
 original draft of the petition, with several other wri- 
 tings equally ancient, which it would have been im- 
 possible to have decyphered, owing to their mouldy 
 state, if he had not happened previously, whilst pass- 
 
 ted in some measure to assist the memory in this instance. The ac- 
 count given by the man of his genealogy was as follows : — 
 
 r Who first came to Ardea ; probably soon 
 Philip } after the date of the deed of partition, 
 I I in 1593. 
 
 Daniel M*Philip. 
 I 
 
 Owen M*Daniel. 
 
 Daniel M'Owen, 
 I 
 
 Owen M*Daniel. 
 Dermond M^Owen. 
 
 Kerry M*Dermond, the informant'. 
 T 
 
290 
 
 ing through DubKn, to have taken copies of the same 
 in the record office. 
 
 That writings of such a nature should thus be pre- 
 served for almost two centuries, and that an illite- 
 rate man, whose family for generations had not en- 
 joyed a condition above that of peasants, should be 
 able to give such a detailed account of his genealogy, 
 is a circumstance to which a parallel would not rea- 
 dily be found, except amongst the Irish. As to Mr 
 Beltz, who was able to explain these writings, and to 
 tell so much more of the history of the family than 
 the poor man himself knew, he was regarded as a 
 prophet, and found no small difficulty in disengaging 
 himself from the importunities of the people. 
 
 Kenmare river is very improperly so called : it is 
 ftn inlet of the sea, which deserves the name of a bay 
 or haven ; and it is difficult to determine how it came 
 to be otherwise called, as no river falls into it of suf- 
 ficient importance to have given it a name. It is 
 about thirty English miles in length, and varies in 
 breadth from two to seven miles. The shores are 
 diversified by numerous creeks and coves; and it 
 abounds with islands, many of which are extraordi- 
 narily beautiful. In some places the mountains rise 
 abruptly from the water ; in others, a considerable 
 extent of sloping ground intervenes between them. 
 The views on every side are highly picturesque ; but 
 the most striking parts of the scenery are where the 
 
 10 
 
291 
 
 lofly peaks of the Kerry mountains are seen through 
 valleys, rising in the distance, and gradually receding 
 behind each other till they are lost in the air. Ken- 
 mare river is more sheltered than any of the other 
 estuaries of the south-west coast j so that the water, 
 notwithstanding its great expanse and the influence 
 of the tide, remains commonly very tranquil, and 
 sometimes, by its smooth and glassy surface, adds 
 much to the beauty of the scenery. Some parts of 
 the shores are well cultivated ; but, on the whole, 
 they are very thinly inhabited. 
 
 We sailed up the river in 0'Sullivan*s boat, intend- 
 ing to land at Nedheen or Kenmare town ; but the 
 wind having failed, and the day drawing towards a 
 close, we judged it advisable to run the boat on shore, 
 and to proceed thither on foot. The country where 
 we landed was covered with rocks, swamps, and heath, 
 over which we advanced for some miles, without being 
 well aware of our proper course. At last we came to 
 a road ; and, on following it, reached a village ro- 
 mantically situated near a river, whose banks, cover- 
 ed with wood, were so steep and lofty, that the bridge 
 across it, notwithstanding the excavation and lower- 
 ing of the road on each side, was upwards of sixty 
 feet above the level of the water. The river above 
 it, confined in a narrow channel, tumbled over rocks 
 in numberless cascades, whose water sparkled through 
 the embowering trees which shot from the cliffs at 
 
292 
 
 each side ; whilst below the bridge it expanded to a 
 considerable breadth, forming a deep basin, in which 
 several vessels lay at anchor under the shores. The 
 great elevation of the bank, and the consequent shade 
 that is diffused over the surface of the water, render 
 its appearance extremely dark ; and the river is known 
 by the appropriate name of the Blackwater, 
 
 The sun had sunk below the horizon when we ar- 
 rived at this place ; but the rich gleam of light still 
 continued to illumine the western sky, which afford- 
 ed us a distinct view of the surrounding landscape. 
 A perfect calm pervaded the heavens j the blue curl- 
 ing smoke of the village chimneys rose slowly through 
 the dark woods ; and the stillness of the scene was 
 only interrupted by the sound of water gushing over 
 the rocks, and the wild plaintive notes of the native 
 Irish airs which resounded through the vale. We had 
 met with nothing more interesting on our journey ; 
 and, forgetful that we had to seek a lodging for the 
 night, remained on the heights opposite to the village 
 contemplating the beauty of the scene, till the shades 
 of evening, and the thick white mists which rose 
 from the river, involved every object in obscurity. 
 No accommodation whatever was to be procured in 
 the village j we were therefore under the necessity of 
 walking on to Nedheen, about eight miles distant, 
 where we arrived at midnight, and with difficulty got 
 admittance into a miserable public-house. 
 
293 
 
 Nedheen is the principal place of trade on Ken- 
 mare river : it is a very small town ; and, though we 
 observed some new houses, has, on the whole, an ap- 
 pearance of decay. Perhaps this is to be attributed 
 to the very bad state of the roads which lead to it ; 
 and if so, it will probably not recover very soon, as 
 it seems the object of the inhabitants of Kerry rather 
 to direct their new roads towards the Blackwater, 
 which is a more convenient place for shipping, and 
 better situated for supplying the inland district with 
 foreign commodities. 
 
 There is an abundance of excellent limestone at 
 Nedheen, by means of which the hills around might 
 be all readily improved ; and, if the occupiers recei- 
 ved good encouragement, agriculture would flourish, 
 and the country probably wear a very different as- 
 pect from what it does at present. 
 
 A wild romantic road leads from this place to Kil- 
 larney, which, at the end of about six miles, disco- 
 vers a beautiful prospect of the upper lake, through 
 a wooded glen. Afterwards it traverses several steep 
 and rugged mountains, and, winding through the 
 long vale between Turk and Mangerton, approaches 
 the lower lake over the rich hills of Mucruss. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 EDlNBURGja : 
 
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